1 SML Bx91 95 ^"glgLot'tljteffhJJiitlti, favVieifovfidin^ cf ^ColUgi ,wgthl$:Cototiyr> qgSSSSS^BSga^ESB fWT^'HS^'I^WMMMI^^^^ HANDBOOKS PREPARED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE HISTORICAL SECTION OF THE FOREIGN OFFICE.— No. 64 ISLANDS OF THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN AEGEAN LONDON : PUBLISHED BY H.M. STATIONERY OFFICE. 1920 EDITORIAL NOTE In the spring of 1917 the Foreign Office, in connexion with the preparation which they were making for the work of the Peace Conference, established a special section whose duty it should be to provide the British Delegates to the Peace Conference with information in the most convenient form — geographical, economic, historical, social, religious, and political — respecting the different countries, districts, islands, &c, with which they might have to deal. In addition, volumes were prepared on certain general subjects, mostly of an historical nature, concernmg which it appeared that a special study would be useful. The historical information was compiled by trained writers on historical subjects, who (in most cases) gave their services without any remuneration. For the geographical sections valuable assistance was given by the Intelligence Division (Naval Staff) of the Admiralty ; and for the economic sections, by the War Trade Intelhgence Department, which had been established by the Foreign Office. Of the maps accompanying the series, some were prepared by the above-mentioned depart ment of the Admiralty, but the bulk of them were the work of the Geographical Section of the General Staff (Military Intelligence Division) of the War Office. Now that the Conference has nearly completed its task, the Foreign Office, in response to numerous inquiries and requests, has decided to issue the books for public use, believing that they will be useful to students of history, politics, economics, and foreign affairs, to publicists generally and to business men and travellers. It is hardly necessary to say that some of the subjects dealt with in the series have not in fact come under discussion at the Peace Conference ; but, as the books treating of them contain valuable informa tion, it has been thought advisable to include them. It must be understood that, although the series of volumes was prepared under the authority, and is now issued with the sanction, of the Foreign Office, that Office is not to be regarded as guaranteeing the accuracy of every statement which they contain or as identifying itself with all the opinions expressed in the several volumes ; the books were not prepared in the Foreign Office itself, but are in the nature of information provided for the Foreign Office and the British Delegation. The books are now published, with a few exceptions, substantially as they were issued for the use of the Delegates. No attempt has been made to bring them up to date, for, in the first place, such a process would have entailed a great loss of time and a prohibitive expense ; and, in the second, the political and other conditions of a great part of Europe and of the Nearer and Middle East are still unsettled and in such a state of flux that any attempt to describe them would have been incorrect or misleading. The books are therefore to be taken as describing, in general, ante-bellum conditions, though in a few cases, where it seemed specially desirable, the account has been brought down to a later date. G. W. PROTHERO, General Editor and formerly January 1920. Director of the Historical Section. TABLE OF CONTENTS I. GEOGRAPHY PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL General Description Thasos . SamothrakiImbros . Tenedos . Lemnos . Agiostrati Mytilene Psara Khios Samos Nikaria . PatmosLeros Kalymnos KosAstropalia Nisyros . Tilos Symi Khallci . Rhodes Karpathos PAGE Kastdlorizo II. POLITICAL HISTORY Chronological Summary . (1) Classical and Byzantine Periods (2) Frankish Period (3) Turkish Period (4) Genoese Companies (5) Knights of Rhodes , •, (6) Privileges of Islands \j:. (7) Greek Revolution . 4 # (8) Islands in Nineteenth Century a $ (9) Principality of Samos (10) Italo-Turkish War . . (11) Greek Occupation . Wt. 6325/735. 1,000. 5/20. O.U.P. TABLE OF CONTENTS No. 64 PAGE III. SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS Islands occupied by Greece (1) Religion 22 (2) Political 23 (3) Naval and MiUtary Organization . . 23 (4) Public Education 23 Rhodes, Kos, and the Dodekanese (1) ReUgion 24 (2) Political . . 24 (3) Public Education ... 24 IV. ECONOMIC CONDITIONS General Summary (1) Means of Communication 2626 (2) Industry . (3) Commerce . 2728 Thasos 29 Samothraki ? 31 Imhros 32 Lemnos 32 Tenedos 34 MytileneKhios 35 38 Samos 41 Nikaria and Phurni 45 Kalymnos . Kos . 4547 Symi . Rhodes 4849 Astropalia, die. . 52 APPENDIX Table 1 . Tenedos : Exports . 54 ,, 2. Tenedos: Imports. 54 „ 3. Khios : Exports 54 ,, 4. Khios : Imports 55 ,, 5. Samos : Exports . 55 „ 6. Samos : Imports . 56 Islands of i IT. & E. Aegean J TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE Table 7. » 8. „ 9. „ io. Samos : Rhodes Rhodes : Rhodes Shipping . Exports . Imports . Countries with which Trade is 56 5758 conducted . t , , 58 )3 11. Rhodes Shipping . • 59 AUTHORITIES • 60 Maps 60 Islands of i N. 8c B. Aeg-ean J I. GEOGBAPHY PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL General Description The islands included in the present survey are Thasos, Samothraki, Imbros, Tenedos, Lemnos, Agio- strati (S.trati), Mytilene (Lesbos), Psara, Khios, Samos, Nikaria (Ikaria), Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, Astro palia, Nisyros, Tilos, Symi, Khalki (Kharki), Rhodes, Karpathos, Kasos, Kastellorizo. These islands lie off the coast of Thrace and Asia Minor and form, with the other Aegean Islands,1 a link between Greece and Asia Minor. The most northerly, Thasos, lies close to the coast of eastern Macedonia. Samothraki, Imbros, and Tenedos lie off the Dardanelles, with Lemnos and the small island of Agiostrati farther to. the west. Mytilene, with the Moskonesia between it and the mainland, lies off the Gulf of Adramyti. Khios and Psara form a distinct group farther south, being the extension of the pro montory which runs west from Smyrna. South again Samos and Nikaria form a continuation of the Mykale promontory, and from them the Southern Sporades run down the coast in a south-easterly direction as far as Rhodes. The Dodekanese, or Twelve Islands, is a term loosely used, and varies in signification. In Turkish times it did not include Kos and Rhodes, but at the present day these two are included in common parlance, and Nikaria and Kastellorizo omitted. They are, from north to south — (Nikaria,) Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, Astropalia, Nisyros, Symi, Tilos, Rhodes, Khalki, (Kastellorizo,) Karpathos, and Kasos. The islands marking the western limit are Thasos, Lemnos, Agiostrati, Psara, Nikaria, Astropalia, and 1 See Greece, &c, No. 18 of this series. B 2 GEOGRAPHY [*<>. ** Kasos, with the intervening islets, Lebinthos (Levitha), Kinaros, and Syrina (Syrnos). Between Astropalia and Kasos lie some groups of rocks or islets of which the attribution is doubtful. The climate of these islands resembles that of the Cyclades (see Greece, No. 18 of this series). It is mild and equable. Sanitary conditions are on the whole good. The chief defect is the prevalence of malaria in low-lying or marshy districts. There is also a certain amount of leprosy in some islands. The people of these islands are of the Greek race and speak the Greek language. In some cases, as in Astropalia and Karpathos, they preserve dialects containing classical forms unknown to the modern tongue ; but all the Greeks are mutually intelligible. They also preserve ancient marriage and other customs at Lindos in Rhodes, in Kalymnos, and elsewhere. The population amounted before the war to a total of about 375,000, the great bulk of whom are Greek by race and Orthodox Christians by rehgion ; there were only about 24,000 Turks, most of them in Rhodes and Mytilene, and a few Jews. Since the war of 1912 many Greek refugees have come from Asia Minor, and some of the Turks have emigrated. The people of the islands live for the most part in the towns and villages near the sea, and are engaged in some form of maritime industry or in agriculture or mining. The Dodekanese has suffered very much during the war from the lack of communication with the mainland and with Egypt; while Mytilene and Khios have had to support the great body of refugees from Asia Minor. THASOS Thasos, the most northerly island in the Aegean, lies only about 4 miles from the Macedonian coast. The islet of Thasopoulo is in the middle of the channel. Thasos is about 160 square miles in area, and roughly circular in shape. It is mountainous (highest point, SWA'sean] THASOS; SAMOTHRAKI 3 Ypsarion, 3,428 ft.) and well wooded. The principal village, Panagia, is on the north-east, and has a landing- place, Limani, with two small harbours. There are also landing-places on the east coast at Potamia Bay, and at Kinara within the islet of Kinara. On the south coast a tongue of land jutting into the sea forms a small harbour. Near Cape Kokkina, at the southern extremity of the island, is Astris, with a small landing- place. On the north-west is Poto, from which the zinc worked by the Germans was exported.- On the west are the landing-places of Mories, Kakerachi, Sotiro, Kazaveti, and Vulgaro. The island is peculiarly rich in metals. The population are Greek Christians and number about ISjOOO.1 SAMOTHRAKI Samothraki (Turkish, Semendrek), 38 miles east- south-east of Thasos, and 15 miles north-west of Imbros, is 12 miles by 10 in size, and mountainous, containing the highest peak in the archipelago (Mt. Phengari, 5,248 ft.). The general formation of the island, with a central peak from which all the land slopes down to the sea, is volcanic ; the high ground is bare and the valleys fertile. Owing to the strong currents from the Dardanelles, the anchorages and roadsteads are not safe in a north wind. The safest landing-place is in the Bay of Kamariotis, near Cape Akrotiri, on the west coast. There is another landing-place at Malathrea in the south, others at the mouths of the Phonias and the Angistro, small rivers of the north-west. The usual landing-place is at Palaeopolis on the north coast. The climate is mild on the west. The population numbers 4,600 Greek Christians. The chief village is Pyrgos, or Chora, with 3,700 inhabitants. It has some sulphur springs three hours distant, which are much frequented by people from the mainland. 1 The figures given for population throughout are for the most part only approximate estimates. In few cases are census statistics available. B2 GEOGRAPHY [»••« IMBROS Imbros (Turkish, Imruz) lies 15 miles south-east of Samothraki, and is about 18 miles from east to west by 8 miles from north to south. The principal place, Kastro, on the north coast, is on the site of the ancient town of Imbros. The usual landing-place is in the bay to the south of Nikolaos at the mouth of the Ilissus. From Lemnos the landing-place is at Pyrgos, half-way between Cape Avlaka and Cape Niger. The harbour of Kephalo is important as lying off the Dardanelles, nearly 12 miles from Cape Helles. The chief village in the interior is Panaghia. Kusu Bay, from which was exported the brown coal (lignite) worked by a German company, is not now used as an anchorage, owing to its exposure to the north winds. Here, as in Samothraki, the valleys are very fertile. The population consists of about 9,000 Greeks. TENEDOS Tenedos has a circumference of 10 miles. With it go the small islands at the mouth of the Dardanelles known as the Rabbit Islands (Tavchan Adasi), the longest of which is 4 miles in length. There is a town and harbour on the east coast, separated by a channel only 3 miles wide from the mainland. Tenedos has a population of about 5,000, one-third of whom are Moslems. LEMNOS Lemnos (Turkish, Ilmeli; Italian, Stalimeni) lies in the middle of the northern Aegean, and is of an irregular square shape, 15 miles each way across. The bays of Purnea on the north and Mudros on the south divide the island into an eastern and a western portion. Mudros harbour, the most important in this part of the Aegean, is nearly land-locked and affords good H.TiB^eanJ IMBROS; LEMNOS; AGIOSTRATI 5 anchorage for a number of large ships. There is another harbour farther west, Kondia, smaller but capable of accommodating large ships. The Bay of Kondia is open to the south-west, while the prevailing winds are from the north. It is divided from Mudros by a neck of land a quarter of a mile in breadth. Lemnos is hilly,|but the hills do not rise to so great a height as on some of the other islands, their highest point being 1,400 ft. There are no trees ; the water, which is obtained from wells, is good. The coast is rocky, except in the bays mentioned ; and the current of the Hellespont sets with great force between Lemnos and Imbros. The population is mainly Greek and numbers about 27,000 ; many of the men migrate in winter to Egypt in search of work. The chief town, Kastro, on the west coast of the island, has an old citadel crowning the promontory, and warm baths not far distant. On the east coast there is a shallow salt lake called Megalo Limni, about 2 square miles in extent, separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land, but connected with it at the northern end. It is dry in autumn. From it grassy dunes stretch south ward to Mudros. AGIOSTRATI Agiostrati, Aistrati, or Strati (Agios Eustratios ; Turkish, Bozbaba), lies south of Lemnos and north-west of Mytilene and Psara, but so far from all the others as to be almost forgotten. It is difficult of approach in a north wind, but has a good small harbour on the west, sheltered both from north and south by precipi tous cliff's, 3 miles from the northern extremity, where the island runs up in a long narrow spit. There are two rich valleys, Tenediotis and Para- deisos, where the peasants grow all kinds of fruit and vegetables. The population amounts to 1,300 Greeks. The island is considered by some scholars to be the ancient Halonesos. GEOGRAPHY [»<>•<" MYTILENE Mytilene (Mitylene) or Lesbos (Turkish, Midiillu), measuring 44 miles by 28, is rugged and mountainous. The highest peak is Mt. Olympus (3,080 ft.) in the south-east. The island is only 10 miles from the coast of Asia Minor and has two remarkable gulfs, Port lero (Hiero) and Port Kalloni, which form two large land locked harbours lying on the south-east and south-west of the island. Their great drawback is the narrowness of the entrance in both. Port lero is 4 miles long by 2J broad, with hot baths near. Port Kalloni is 1 1 \ miles long by 4 miles wide. The entrance is hampered by a rocky bank which narrows the channel to 70 ft. wide for the first half-mile. Sigri Island (Megalonesi), on the west, forms a harbour with the coast, but the northern entrance is shallow. The north coast of the island is irregular and indented, the mountains rising to a height of 1,000 ft. close to the shore. The town of Moly vos has an open roadstead. There are great olive- groves on all the lower slopes of the hills. The climate is healthy except in the marshes in autumn. The population before the war numbered 152,000, of whom 14,000 were Turks ; but during the war about 70,000 Greek refugees from Asia Minor took shelter here. The chief town, Mytilene, is a clean, well-built, busy place, with a population in ordinary times of about 15,000 Greeks. The town is situated on a promontory on the east coast of the island and is the principal port, though it has only an open roadstead. Two small harbours, suitable only for small craft, lie on each side of the promontory. The northern harbour is the more com modious, but less used. The small island group known as Moskonesia (with a population of about 5,500 Greeks), a dependency of Mytilene, lies close to the coast, off Aivali (Kydonia), with which it is intimately connected. Sftfa Aegean] MYTILENE ; KHIOS ; SAMOS . 7 PSARA Psara, a dependency of Khios, is a small rocky island, known in history for the heroic part it played in the Greek revolution against Turkish rule. There is a good roadstead on the west of the island sheltered by an islet, Antipsara, and a small harbour to the south. The population; which, according to Finlay, numbered about 6,000 at the time of the Greek revolution, has never recovered from the Turkish massacres ; it now numbers about 3,500 Greeks. KHIOS Khios (Italian, Scio; Turkish, Sakiz Adasi, i.e. Mastic Island), 7 miles from the mainland, 32 miles long by from 5 to 8 wide, is rocky throughout. Mt. Elias, the highest point (4,157 ft.), is at the northern end. The hills become lower towards the south. There are several anchorages along the shores of the island, the principal being that in the strait, one at Port Kolokithia, and one at Volisso. This island is the most fertile and richest in the Aegean, the principal source of its wealth being the mastic, made into chewing gum, used by Turkish women. The Khiotes have suffered much both from earthquake and massacre. Kastro (Port Scio), the chief town, is situated on the east coast, on the site of the old Genoese citadel. There is a large open bay on the west coast. The population is about 74,000, of whom 3,000 are Moslems. SAMOS Samos (Turkish, Susam Adasi) is less than a mile from the mainland, and is about 30 miles from east to west and 10 from north to south. It is mountainous, but very fertile in the plains. On the north the heights are precipitous and barren, rising to 4,000 ft. The lower slopes are well wooded, and there are numerous streams. The Mytilenous runs into the sea east of Port Tigani, on the south-east coast of the island, and the 8 GEOGRAPHY [w°-e* Imbrasus to the west of that port. Vathi, the modern capital, is the port lying at the head of a deep inlet on the north coast of the island, and is protected from the north winds by the adjacent mainland. It is famous for its cigarette factories. The town of Vathi possesses a system of waterworks with three reservoirs.' The old aqueduct of Polycrates, leading to Tigani (the ancient capital) and cut through the mountains, still exists, but is not in use. The strait between Samos and Nikaria is the passage generally used by ships plying between Egypt and Constantinople. The population is about 69,000, mostly Greeks. The island group of Phurni (Korassiae), between Samos and Nikaria, possesses one good harbour. NIKARIA Nikaria (Ikaria), about 29 miles long by 5 broad, lies south-west of Samos. It has a population of about 12,800 Greeks and 100 Turks. The island is a chain of mountains running from north-east to south-west. The open bay of Manganitis* lies on the south side. The chief town, Messaria (Agios Kyriakos), lies on the north coast. PAT 31 OS Patmos (Patino), 20 miles south of the western end of Samos, is irregular in form and about 10 miles long by 5 miles wide. The surface is rugged and broken, rising to 800 feet in St. EHas, and the shore is deeply indented with numerous land-locked creeks. At the middle the island is almost divided in two. The soil is volcanic and barren ; and the large bay on the east, which is said to be the safest in the Greek islands, looks like the crater of a submerged volcano. The inhabitants number about 2,500 and are Greeks, for the most part occupied in sponge-fishing. The southern half of the island is mainly occupied by monks and contains the .famous monastery and cave of the Apocalypse. Arki and Lipso lie to the east, the latter haAring a village on it. KTaAesean] NIKARIA; PATMOS; KOS, ETC. 9 LEROS Leros, 6 miles long by 4 broad, consists of rocky hills. The population numbers 5,000 Greeks. The port of Partheni on the north side of the island is sheltered by some barren rocks at the entrance. KALYMNOS Kalymnos, south-east of Leros, is of irregular shape, about 12 miles by 8. It has about 17,000 inhabitants, all Greeks. All this group of islands is mainly con cerned in sponge-fishing. The best harbour of Kalymnos is Pothia. The island is bare and mountainous, without trees ; there are a few fertile valleys. It was once well wooded, as Ovid calls it ' silvis umbrosa '. The islet of Telendos lies close to the west coast. KOS Kos (Italian, Stanchio ; Turkish, Istan-Keui), close to the coast of Asia Minor, is a long and narrow island, 23 miles long from north-east to south-west and about 5 miles across, with the north-east end facing the Bay of Budrum. The chief town, Kos, is at the north-east end of the island. The mountains are high at the north and gradually sink to a tableland in the centre and rise again into a mountainous region south. The gardens in the central region produce a wealth of garden stuff, amongst others the famous Kos lettuces. The modern town of Kos is on the ancient site, and its most interesting feature is the mediaeval castle of the, Knights of Rhodes. A huge tree, traditionally reported as that under which Hippocrates stood to prescribe, stands in the Castle square. The ancient port is silted up and can only be used by small vessels. An open bay lies on the south facing Nisyros. The population consists of 9,000 Greeks and about 500 Turks. The climate is healthy except near the town of Kos, where fever is prevalent in summer owing to the proximity of a lagoon. 10 GEOGRAPHY [»o.e* ASTROPALIA Astropalia (Astypalaia; Italian, Stampalia), south west of Kos, consists of two large rocky masses, together about 11 miles by 7, joirfed in the centre by a narrow isthmus. On the north and south of this are two deep bays, the southern of which is sheltered by some rocky islets. The harbour of Maltezana is good. The population consists of 1,500 Greeks. NISYROS Nisyros, a small round island south-west of Cape Krio (Knidus), between Kos and Tilos, not quite 10 miles in circumference, is of volcanic origin and the central crater is filled by a sulphur lake. There are also some hot sulphur springs. The population consists of 2,500 Greeks, There is no good harbour. TILOS Tilos (Telos), or Piskopi, measuring about 8 miles by 4, between Nisyros and Rhodes, has three ports. There are about 3,000 inhabitants, many of whom are lepers. SYMI Symi (Turkish, Siimbeki), between the Knidus penin sula and Rhodes, about 8 miles long by 6 broad, has a broken rugged outline, and is surrounded by islets and rocks. The harbour of Panormus on the western side has a large monastery near it. The population consists of about 8,000 Greeks and 200 Turks, m'ainly engaged in the sponge fishery. KHALKI Khalki (Kharki, the ancient Aethraea or Ophiussa), off the west coast of Rhodes, is a rugged and mountainous island about 6 miles long by 3 broad. The inhabitants number about 2,500 and are mostly sponge-fishers. £. ^'Aegean] RHODES; KARPATHOS, ETC. 11 RHODES Rhodes (Rhodos, Rodi), the most easterly island of the Aegean, 12 miles distant from the coast of Asia Minor, is 43 miles from north-east to south-west and 20 miles in width. The northern half of the island is the more picturesque and fertile. In the south there is no coast plain, and in winter the torrents rush down from the mountains to the sea. The Rhodians have always been a maritime people. The island was noted for timber in ancient times, and in modern times has supplied Constantinople with timber for shipbuilding. The city of Rhodes, at the north-east extremity of the island, is built round an amphitheatre which rises from the water, with the mediaeval towers of the famous Knights of Rhodes flanking each side, and the Turkish mosques behind. The best quarter is now occupied by Jews. The Greek quarters, Maras and Neomaras, are outside the city. There are two harbours, now only used by small craft, the smaller' of which has a fine basin but a narrow entrance. It is sheltered on all sides, but is now choked up. The larger harbour is exposed to the north-east wind. Lindos, on the east coast, is on one side of a small bay almost enclosed by rugged cliffs. As at Rhodes, the houses are picturesque, and ornamented with mediaeval carvings. The island is subject to earthquakes. The manufacture of the pottery for which the island wasj famous has ceased, though rough ware is still made for local use. The population of the island of Rhodes totals 31,000, of whom 6,000 are Moslems, 3,000 are Jews, and the rest Greeks.1 Of these inhabitants 10,000 live in the capital. The fine climate has a wide reputation. KARPATHOS Karpathos (Italian, Scarpanto; Turkish, Kerpe) is a barren and rocky island running north and south, 1 Estimates differ somewhat, cf. p. 24. !2 GEOGRAPHY [*0.64 about 30 miles long by 7 to 3 broad. It reaches the height of about 4,000 feet. The coast has many small harbours. The population consists of about 8,000 Greeks. Many of the men go to work in Asia Minor during the summer, and what agriculture there is is mostly done by women. The isolation of the island has led to many curious survivals in language, customs, and dress. KASOS Kasos; between Karpathos and Crete,is about 12 miles by 4, and consists of a single range of mountains of considerable height. There is no harbour. There are about 7,500 Greeks and 100 Turks, mostly seafaring. KASTELLORIZO Kastellorizo (Megisti ; Italian, Castelrosso), which strictly falls outside the Aegean, is a small island, only about 3 miles by 2, 60 miles east of Rhodes and about 1 mile from the mainland. There are about 7,000 Greek inhabitants, a great proportion of whom are sponge-fishers and ship's carpenters ; they also have a good reputation as sailors. The island has a small land-locked harbour. Islands of i in N. & E. Aegean J 1 <> II. POLITICAL HISTORY Chronological Summary 1000 B.C. (circa). Greeks in Asiatic Islands. 2nd- cent. B.C. Islands under Rome. a.d. 325. Foundation of Constantinople. Beginning of Greek Empire of the East. 13th-15th cent. Franks, especially Genoese, in islands. 1309-1522. Knights of St. John in Rhodes. 1453. Constantinople taken by Turks. 1462-1566. Islands gradually conquered by Turks. 1821. Several of islands join Greek War of Independence. 1822. Massacre of Khios. 1831. Asiatic Islands restored to Turkey. 1912. Rhodes, Kos, and Dodekanese occupied by Italy. 1912. Rest of Asiatic Islands occupied by Greece (1) Classical and Byzantine Periods The history of the islands of the eastern Aegean is part of the general history of the Greek race, and their fortune has been similar to that of other lands inhabited by Greeks. From the time of their earliest recorded history, that is from about 1000 b. c, they have been inhabited by Greek-speaking peoples, at different times ruled and influenced by foreigners, but always retaining their own marked national characteristics. The history of the Greeks can be roughly divided into six distinct periods. The first is the classical period of free Greek city-states, which lasted till about the middle of the second century B. c. This period also saw the extension of Greek civilization over the whole of Asia Minor and Syria, and in some degree over Egypt. The second is the period of Roman rule, when all Greek-speaking peoples were subjects of the Roman Empire. But throughout this time Greek civilization remained predominant in the eastern portion of the Empire, and the Greek language was that used by the earliest apostles 14 HISTORY [»o. 64 of Christianity. Consequently the division of the Empire into two parts by Constantine the Great in a.d. 325, with Constantinople — the old Greek city of Byzantium — as the capital of the Eastern Empire and with Christianity as its established religion, was only the official recognition of the already existing distinction of the Greek and Latin halves of the Empire. With this begins the third period of Greek history. Though its laws and its administration were based mainly on those of Rome, and Latin long remained its official language, the Eastern Empire became more and more Greek in character, and its severance from Western Europe was finally marked by the quarrel between the Orthodox and the Roman Churches. This third period ends with the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the Franks of the Fourth Crusade. During most of the period the Greeks had maintained their rule over all Asia Minor by constant struggles against the Persians and Saracens of the East. (2) Frankish Period The fourth period, when western princes ruled in the Near East, is the shortest and least important of the periods of Greek history. Western traders had for some time been conducting an active commerce with the Greeks, and the, rival republics of Genoa and Venice had been granted special trading privileges in the territory of the Empire. On the capture of Constantinople, the lands of the Empire were divided between different Frankish princes and barons and the republic of Venice ; and there was a short-lived Latin dynasty at Constantinople. Though the Greeks, who had maintained themselves on, the eastern shore of the Sea of Marmora, soon retook the capital, and afterwards some of the islands and half the Pelo- ponnese, the Western Powers retained their control over the greater part of what is now the kingdom of Greece, and especially over the islands. Already the greater part of Asia Minor had fallen to the Turks, ^I^AlgeanJ FRANKS AND TURKS 15 and here nearly every trace of Greek civilization disappeared; only on the coasts of the Aegean and the Black Sea, where a second Greek empire, with its capital at Trebizond, maintained itself till the middle of the fifteenth century, did the Greeks pre serve their religion, language, and national character istics. The actual power of the Greeks had thus dwindled to very small proportions, but in the lands ruled by the Franks the Greek inhabitants tenaciously clung to their own customs, language, and religion, and there was but little intermingling between them and their western conquerors. When the latter, therefore, were driven out by the Turks they left but little mark on the country, and their permanent influence on Greece was very small, though their rule served to emphasize the feeling the Greeks already had of the deep distinction between themselves and all western nations. (3) Turkish Period The fifth period is the period of Turkish rule. The Turks established their power in Europe by the battle of Kossovo in 1389, and soon after extended their empire over the whole of the Balkan peninsula, Con stantinople falling to them in 1453. Though some islands held out longer than others — Crete, which was held by the Venetians, not falling till 1669 — and Venice made another appearance as a Power in the Near East towards the end of the seventeenth century by capturing the Peloponnese and holding it for thirty years, generally speaking, from the beginning of the fifteenth to the beginning of the nineteenth century, the Turks were all-powerful in south-eastern Europe and in Asia Minor, in all those lands inhabited by Greeks and where they once had held sway. During this time the Greeks were cut off altogether from the rest of Europe, and the ruling Turks were the only foreign people with whom they came in contact. By far the greater number of them retained their own customs, language, and religion, and the traditions of their past. 16 HISTORY [¦* 64 The sixth period of Greek history is that of the independent kingdom of Greece, a period which began for the inhabitants of continental Greece and some of the islands in the revolution of 1821 ; for the majority of the islands off the coast of Asia Minor it only began in 1912 ; for large numbers of Greeks it has not yet begun. (4) Genoese Companies A history of these Greek islands separate from that of the rest of Greek lands does not begin till the fourth of the six periods above described — the period of Frankish predominance ; and even from that time their history only differs in so far as they came more or less under the influence of the Franks and the Turks. Two of the islands — the two largest, most fertile!, and most thickly-populated of them all — Khios and Mytilene, were for long under the rule of the Genoese. In 1275 the Zaccaria family established themselves at Phocaea on the mainland opposite Khios, and in 1304 in Khios itself, first with commercial privileges granted them by the Greek Emperor, then as rulers in the island. In 1346, after a short interval of Greek rule, the maona, a chartered company of Genoese merchants, leased the island from the republic and ruled it and Samos in much, the same way as chartered companies have ruled in Africa. They remained in Samos till 1475, in Khios till 1566. Another Genoese family, the Gattilusii, secured Mytilene for themselves, and later ruled also in Lemnos, Samo thraki, and Imbros (1355-1462). The Genoese were the most tolerant of all the Frankish rulers in Greece ; they did not interfere with the religion or customs of their Greek subjects, and left them always a large measure of local autonomy. Moreover, as they wers primarily traders, they were interested in the suppres sion of piracy and in preserving the security of the seas. They maintained a precarious tenure of power even after the Turkish capture of Constantinople, but were finally driven from Khios in 1566. Islands of N. &E. Aegean] GENOESE ; KNIGHTS OF ST. JOHN 17 (5) Knights of Rhodes Rhodes, the next most important of the islands, had a somewhat different history. The famous Knights of St. John (Hospitallers) seized Rhodes in 1309, and there maintained a heroic struggle against the Turks till 1522, when they were granted honourable terms and retired to Malta. But, unlike the Genoese in Khios and Mytilene, their only interest was in fighting the Turks ; and the Greek inhabitants of Rhodes and the neigh bouring islands suffered greatly from the continual irregular warfare which they carried on. While they were known to the West as the most heroic champions of Christianity against the infidels, the Greeks regarded them as oppressors, pirates, and heretics. (6) Privileges of Islands During the long centuries of Turkish rule, the whole of the Aegean was under the command of a single governor ; and the islands were distinguished from one another and from the rest of the Greek lands only by the degree Qf immunity from the presence of Turkish officials that each enjoyed. Special privi leges were granted by the Turks to Khios and to the group of twelve small islands of the Southern Sporades known as the Dodekanese. The Greeks of Khios were allowed to manage their own local affairs much as they had been by the Genoese ; a Turkish garrison was kept in the capital, but the Greeks elected their own municipal council; their Church and their schools were not interfered with ; they were allowed to use the Greek language in their correspondence with the Turkish Government; and they had an official of their own in Constantinople, the Dragoman of the Porte, to represent them in any complaint they might have to make to the Government. Still greater privie leges were enjoyed by the inhabitants of the Dodeka nese. These twelve islands, Nikaria, Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos, Astropalia, Nisyros, Symi, Tilos, Khalki, Karpathos, Kasos, and Kastellorizo or Megisti, are 18 HISTORY [ No. 64 distinguished by the rocky and barren nature of their soil and the poverty of their inhabitants, who maintain themselves almost exclusively by sea-faring, fishing, and sponge-diving. The two fertile islands of the Southern Sporades, Kos and Rhodes, do not belong to the Dode kanese properly so called, and did not enjoy its privi leges. The inhabitants of the twelve islands had to pay a single tax — and that not a high one — yearly to the Turkish Governor of Rhodes ; they settled the amount each island was to pay towards this tax themselves ; and if they paid the tax regularly they were free from all other interference by the Turks. No Turkish soldiers, nor any Turkish officials, were allowed to land on their islands ; and each island managed its own affairs, settled its taxes, and built schools or churches, as it willed. (7) Greek Revolution The stories of the different islands in the nineteenth century vary greatly. Only four of those off the Asiatic coast played a part in the Greek revolution, viz. Khios, Psara, Samos, and Kasos. Of these, Psara and Kasos took a very prominent part in the activities of the Greek fleet ; both were conquered by the Turks before the end of the war. But a worse fate befell Khios. *A small body of Samiotes landed on that rich and peaceful island in 1822, defeated the Turkish garrison, and pro claimed its union with free Greece. But the Turks soon returned, drove out the Samiotes, and took their revenge on the inhabitants of the island. More than 50,000 Khiotes were massacred or deported ; and the island has never since enjoyed the prosperity it had had previously. (8) Islands in Nineteenth Century On the establishment of the independent kingdom of Greece in 1831, all the islands, together with Crete, were returned to Turkey. But all their former privi leges were restored to Khios and the Dodekanese, and Samos was made an autonomous principality under a Christian prince, appointed by the Sultan. The ^"Aegean] REVOLUTION ; ITALIAN WAR 19 subsequent history of these islands is largely one of attempts made by the Porte to infringe these privi leges. Particularly in 1866, when the Law of the Vilayets was introduced, and in 1909, after the Young Turkish revolution, when another attempt was made to unify the government of the whole empire, were the privileges infringed, Turkish garrisons maintained, and more taxes imposed. In 1910 the attempt to apply the law of conscription to the Christian inhabitants of the empire met with very strong opposition, and memorials were presented to the Great Powers by the islanders. (9) Principality of Samos % Samos had a disturbed history during this period. Though the autonomy of the island was guaranteed by France, Great Britain, and Russia, the three protecting Powers of Greece, attempts were constantly being made by the Porte to interfere in its government. The prince, chosen generally from among the Phanariot Greeks of Constantinople, was used by the Turkish Government as a Turkish official ; and many conflicts broke out between him and the Assembly of the island, in which, according to the statute granting autonomy, lay the ruling authority. Finally, in 1908, the prince executed a coup d'etat by dismissing the Assembly and introducing Turkish troops to support him ; and his unconstitutional rule lasted till 1910. His successor was soon after deposed by the people ; and Samos remained independent till the arrival of the Greek fleet in the first Balkan War. (10) Italo-Turkish War With the outbreak of the war between Italy and Turkey in 1911 begins a new period in the history of the islands. Italy, meeting with more resistance in Tripoli than she had expected, occupied, in the spring of 1912, the Southern Sporades (Rhodes, Kos, and the islands of the Dodekanese), except Nikaria and Kastellorizo. At the same time Nikaria and Samos C2 20 HISTORY [*o.m declared themselves independent republics. On Octo ber 10, 1912, Turkey, threatened with war by the Balkan States, concluded the Peace of Lausanne with Italy, according to which Italy was to return all the islands occupied by her to Turkey as soon as the last Turkish soldier was withdrawn from Tripoli. Since however this condition was not carried out, Italy has remained in provisional occupation of the islands. (11) Greek Occupation On the outbreak of the Balkan War, Nikaria and Samos, like Crete, at once proclaimed their union with Greece ; and the Greek fleet soon occupied the remain ing islands, Lemnos, Thasos, Samothraki, Imbros, Tenedos, Agiostrati, Mytilene, Khios, the Moskonesia, and Psara. The occupation of the Southern Sporades by Italy prevented their union with Greece. At the conclusion of the Balkan Wars, Turkey agreed to surrender Lemnos, Thasos, Psara, Agiostrati, Samos, Nikaria, and Crete ; and Bulgaria resigned to Greece all claim to Thasos. But Turkey would not give up Samothraki, Imbros, a/id Tenedos, as being necessary for the defence of the Dardanelles, nor the rich islands of Khios and Mytilene ; and when war broke out in 1914 no treaty had been signed between Turkey and Greece, and diplomatic relations were strained. The Great Powers, however, had recognized Greek claims to Khios, the Moskonesia, and Mytilene, while insist ing that Imbros and Tenedos must be returned to Turkey. Owing to the refusal of the Turks to agree to these terms, all the islands, including Imbros and Tenedos, have been since administered as part of the Greek King dom, and return members to the Greek Parliament. They form three new nomoi, or prefectures, of the Greek kingdom as follows : Mytilene, Lemnos, Agiostrati, Samothraki, Imbros, and Tenedos form the nomos of Lesbos, with its capital at Mytilene ; Khios, the Mos- ffSfjP&.an] GREEK OCCUPATION 21 konesia, and Psara form the namos of Khios, with its capital at Khios ; and Samos and Nikaria form the nomos of Samos, with its capital at Vathi. Thasos is ¦ part of the nomos of Drama, the most easterly province of Greek Macedonia. Kastellorizo proclaimed its union with Greece, but has been occupied by the French since 1915. 22 [Wo- 64 III. SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS The ' Asiatic Islands ' must, for the purpose of the present section, be divided into two classes : (a) all north of, and including, Samos, which have become, for all practical purposes, a part of the Greek kingdom, and (b) Rhodes, Kos, and the Dodekanese, which, re maining nominally Turkish, have been since 1912 under Italian administration. Those which are now included in Greece share in the religious and political institutions and system of public education common to the whole of the Greek King dom,1 though there has jjot been much opportunity since 1913 for peaceful organization and development. ISLANDS OCCUPIED BY GREECE (1) Religion The great majority of the population of these islands belong to the Orthodox Greek Church ; but they were, before Greek annexation, under the Oecumenical Patriarch at Constantinople, and they have not yet been brought into definite relation with the Greek autocephalous Church in Old Greece. A Synod of bishops from the new provinces, including Macedonia and Crete, as well as these Asiatic Islands, was held at Salonika under the Provisional Government in 1917 ; but its relation to the Synod of Old Greece at Athens has not yet been defined. There are about 1,300 Roman Catholics and a Roman Catholic Bishop in Khios. 1 See Greece, &c, No. 18 of this series. KSllnlSAegeanJ ISLANDS UNDER GREECE 23 There is a Moslem minority, which will probably diminish, in some of the islands (14,000 in Mytilene and about 3,000 in Khios). Under Greek administration its spiritual heads (Muftis) receive a contribution from the State. Toleration is extended to all recog nized forms of worship by the Greek revised Constitu tion of 1911. (2) Political Until 1912 all the islands were subject to Turkey, which has never formally consented to give up Samo thraki, Imbros, Tenedos, Mytilene, and Khios, though these, as well as the others, have been actually annexed by Greece. Khios enjoyed local autonomy under Turkish rule ; and Samos had special privileges under a Christian prince appointed by the Sultan. All alike now send deputies to the Greek Parliament, and are administered by Greek officials. (3) Naval and Military Organization The population of the islands serve in the Greek army and navy under the same conditions as the inhabitants of Old Greece. (4) Public Education Even before the Greek annexation, education in these islands was provided by local administration ann by the endowments given by rich Greeks, mainly od the model of the educational system established in Old Greece. The teachers were in many cases graduates' of Athens University or came from Greek schools. There were gymnasia in Mytilene and Khios ; and in Samos secondary schools both for boys and girls were provided by the French religious com munities. Anglophil Greeks sent their children to grammar schools in Smyrna. Statistics of illiteracy seem to show that, on the whole, Old Greece is more literate than the new territories, and the smaller and remoter islands have a lower standard of education ; 24 PRESENT CONDITIONS [*°-64 the number of illiterates is everywhere much greater among the girls than among the boys. The educational system in these islands will doubtless soon be assimilated to that in Old Greece. RHODES, KOS, AND THE DODEKANESE (1) Religion In Kos and the Dodekanese almost all the population are Greek Orthodox Christians, under the Oecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. There are a few Turks in Kos. In Rhodes the great majority are also Greek Christians ; there are about 7,000 Turks and 2,500 Jews, mostly in the town of Rhodes.1 (2) Political The Dodekanese had special privileges as to local autonomy in Turkish times. The Italian occupation has not been popular ;' and large numbers of the inhabi tants have emigrated to Crete or elsewhere, nearly half the population, it is said, from Kalymnos. This is especially due to the restrictions on their main industry of sponge-fishing, and the regulation that any one away from the island more than a month should not be permitted to return. The war must in any case have reduced the islanders to great straits, by cutting them off from Egypt and Asia Minor. (3) Public Education Education has been well provided for in some of the islands by private endowment or local administration. In Leros, for example, there is an education committee administering a fund of 10,000 drachmas yearly, derived from private benefactions, church contributions, and one-third of the harbour dues. This maintains ele mentary schools for 350 boys and 200 girls, with teachers trained in Athens, and a ' Hellenic ' school of the Greek type. There are also one Greek and one French private 1 Cf., however, p. 11. ^'Aegean] THE DODEKANESE 25 school, a library, and a high school, in Greek and theology, where several of the local ecclesiastical digni taries have been trained. This may be taken as a typical, though possibly favourable, example of the smaller islands. In Kalymnos there are, apart from elementary schools, a good endowed school for boys of gymnasium type, and a gymnasium for girls, supported and administered by the municipality. 26 [Xo. 64 IV. ECONOMIC CONDITIONS GENERAL SUMMARY 1 It is very difficult to obtain an accurate estimate of the economic value of the islands newly acquired by Greece. The information available is scanty, and there are large gaps in it. The efforts made to estimate the possibilities of these lands appear to have been quite insufficient, but, such as they are, they reveal the inadequacy of the attempts to develop their agri cultural resources and the still greater neglect of their mineral resources. Some islands, it is true, such as Lemnos and Tenedos, owe most of their importance to their geographical position ; but others, as for example Khios and Samos, could be brought to a much higher state of economic development than that existing at present. (1) Means of Communication Roads are few ; on many of the islands they do not exist, and mule-tracks are the only means of com munication. In Mytilene there has been a consider able expenditure recently on road-making, and Khios and Samos have some good roads. During the Italian occupation there has been some road-making on Rhodes. There are no railways on any of the islands ; one was projected in 1910 on Samos, but work upon it has not yet been begun. Good ports are few, but anchorages are numerous. The ports which receive the most shipping are Mudros in Lemnos, Kastro in Mytilene, Kastro (Port Scio) in Khios, Port Vathi in Samos, and the port of Rhodes. All the larger islands, except Samothraki, are 1 The Islands are dealt with individually below, pp. 29 seq. &TE.SAegean] INDUSTRY 27 connected by cable, and some of them have wire less stations. The internal postal arrangements have improved vastly since the end of the Turkish rule. (2) Industry Labour is on the whole backward, and the methods employed are primitive. In Samos the inhabitants have the reputation of being improvident, lazy, and pleasure- loving ; and even on islands such as Lemnos, where their reputation for industry stands higher, their methods of cultivation are so antiquated that the re sults are poor ; for instance, they thresh corn by driving their mules over the threshing-floor. Agriculture is usually in the hands of women ; such of the male popu lation of Mytilene as do not find regular employment in the factories of the island obtain work on the main land as masons and carpenters. The result has been that the war has made less difference to the pro ductivity of these islands than it has to that of other countries. A considerable amount of emigration has taken place in recent years, especially to America. Tenedos, Mytilene, Khios, Samos, and Rhodes have all sent many emigrants. In 1908 as many as 5,000 per sons emigrated to America from Samos and the neighbouring islands and coasts. From Rhodes a great number of peasants emigrate each spring to Anatolia and Greece to work as masons ; as a rule they return in winter with their earnings, but some settle in those lands permanently. A .large number have also emigrated to Egypt both from the country and the towns, and the Rhodians have made successful immigrants in America, the Transvaal, the Far East, and Australia. The occupation by Greece has stemmed the flow of emigration from the islands. Mytilene received in 1913 an influx of 10,000 refugees.1 1 These are exclusive of the 70,000 who have taken refuge in the island since August 1914. 28 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [»»•« Few of the islands are fertile, though Samos is well watered and has some irrigation works. The chief agricultural products exported are as follows : Thasos : timber. Lemnos : grain, wine. Tenedos : wine, raisins. Mytilene : olive oil, valonea. Khios : gum mastic, fruits, olive oil, valonea, fir bark, tobacco. Samos : wine, olive oil, tobacco, locust-beans, raisins. Rhodes : fruit, wine, onions. The mineral resources of these islands have been very little exploited. It is said that there are in one or more of them copper, antimony, silver-lead, zinc, copper pyrites, chrome ore, alum, calcium, emery, iron, manganese, calamine, coal, lignite, and marble ; but of these the only minerals worked are in Thasos silver-lead and zinc, in Nikaria iron, and in Imbros lignite (unremuneratively), while in Khios some varie gated marble is quarried. Potter's clay is obtained in Thasos, white clay in Samos, and kaolin in Rhodes. The northern islands have no manufactures except that of cotton stuffs in Lemnos. Industries are more numerous in the Asiatic Islands. In Mytilene cotton, soap, and olive oil are produced, in Khios soap and silk, in Samos oil and cigarettes, in Rhodes soap. There are also tanneries in Samos and Rhodes, and distilleries in Rhodes. (3) Commerce It is not easy to give a satisfactory conspectus of the trade of these islands, the information supplied by the consular reports being often deficient. The fact that in some cases the only figures available are not for the most recent years is, however, not a great dis advantage, for since the outbreak of the war between Turkey and Italy in 1911 there has been no normal year in the Aegean. A considerable trade is carried on by small sailing craft, especially between the southern S'.'I'Mgean] COMMERCE ; THASOS 29 islands and Egypt ; but this has been much inter rupted during recent years. The Germans, before the European War, had been much more successful than the British in pressing their trade. In 1908 Mytilene was visited by thirty German commercial travellers, eight French, seven Italian, and only one British. In the same year at Khios, German imports led, in spite of the fact that there is a greater demand for British goods. In Samos the bulk of the textiles were formerly obtained from the United Kingdom, but recently a large part of the orders have been secured for German and Italian houses. Among the reasons for the better success of the Ger mans are the following : (1) the goods, if inferior, are cheaper ; (2) greater facilities for payment are offered ; (3) commercial travellers representing^ German houses pay regular visits ; (4) the Germans send out advertise ments, in which they use the decimal system of weights and measures ; (5) there is, generally speaking, a greater consideration shown by the Germans for the tastes of their customers, and a much more general knowledge of the Greek language. British interests do not figure prominently in these islands. In Samos, however, a British company deal ing in Samian wines under the title of the Samos Wine Company, Ltd., was established in 1912 with a registered capital of £120,000. THASOS (A) Communications (a) Roads. — There are no roads on the island ; transport is by mules. (b) Telegraphs and Telephones. — There is telegraphic and telephonic communication between Panagia and Kastro. (c) Ports. — There are no ports suitable for use in bad weather. Vessels visiting the island anchor in Panagia Roads off Limani. The following landing- plaoes are used : 30 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS , [wo.64 Limani, on the north coast, the most frequented by steamers visiting the island. There is a small pier in the small artificial harbour, with a depth of 2 ft. alongside, and farther west is another small pier, which is connected with an oil factory by two lines of light tramway. Mail steamers from Kavalla call twice a week at Limani. Sotiro, on the west coast, used for loading ore. There is a small pier and also some sheds for storing ore. The depth of water alongside the pier is about 6 ft. Hamadieh, the slcala (landing-place) of Kastro on the south-east coast, the chief loading centre for minerals exported from the mines on the island. It possesses an iron pier 12Q ft. long and 20 ft. wide, with a depth of 20 ft. at the end. There are two cranes with a lifting capacity of 1 ton each, two steam tugs, a motor-boat, and a number of small lighters capable of carrying about 10 tons. (d) Cables. — There is a cable from Limani to Koan Point on the mainland opposite and thence to Kavalla. There is also a wireless station. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — Agriculture is fairly widespread, but the produce is all consumed locally. Maize, olives, tobacco, and vegetables are grown," and the island possesses some sheep and good cattle. A considerable part of the island is covered with trees, chiefly fir, of which there is some export. Wine is produced, but not in very large quantities. (2) Minerals.— The island has from ancient times been reputed to be rich in minerals. The Phoenicians worked the gold-mines on a large scale, but it is stated that all traces of these mines have now been lost ; on the other hand, extensive evidence of ancient mining operations is to be seen on the east side, though there is no information as to the mineral obtained from them. Ihe island is said to contain iron, copper, and antimony 8?S?aU»] THASOS; SAMOTHRAKI 31 in addition to the deposits of silver-lead and zinc in the south and west, which are being worked at the present time. In 1903 the right to work these was obtained by a German company, Friedrich Speidel & Co., who are stated to have exported ore in the years 1905, 1906, and 1907 to the amount of 19,000, 21,000, and 20,000 tons respectively. It is said that the mines are now in the hands of a Greek syndicate, but that the quantity of good ore is greatly reduced. The mines are equipped with furnaces for smelting, with ore-dressing plant, storage sheds, and a light railway on which the ore is brought down by a double line and hawser, the full truck pulling up the empty one. The industry employs about 1,000 men. There are large quantities of marble on the island, and some is quarried and exported. Good potter's clay is found in the north of the island, but the local potteries have decayed. (3) Manufacture. — A small boat-building industry is carried on at Limani. SAMOTHRAKI (A) Communications (a) Roads. — The island is very mountainous, and there are no roads. Mule-tracks are the only means of internal communication. (b) Telegraphs. — There is no telegraphic communica tion. (c) Ports. — There are no ports or roadsteads in the island, but there are a certain number of landing- places. The only sea communication is by caique to Dedeagach, Thasos, and Imbros. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — The island produces corn, fruit, oil, honey and wax, and supports a large flock of goats, but it has no trade, and is economically unimportant. ' The cultivated land is chiefly in the west and south-west. 32 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [»»•«* (2) Minerals. — Evidence of the existence of deposits of silver-lead has been found on the west side of the island, but no mining has been done. On the north coast are hot sulphur springs. IMBROS (A) Communications (a) Roads. — A road runs from Plaka on the north east coast to Paraskevi, a distance of about 8 miles. (b) Telegraphs. — There is no internal telegraphic communication. (c) Ports. — There are several fairly safe anchorages, chiefly on the south side of the island, but no ports. Coasting steamers now call weekly. (d) Cables. — There is a telephone cable to Lemnos. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — The island is fertile and well wooded, and, like all the neighbouring islands, abounds in game. Wine, olive oil, and cotton are produced in small quantities, but there is no trade. The inhabi tants are occupied chiefly in growing wheat, oats, and barley, breeding goats, and keeping bees. (2) Minerals. — Lead and copper pyrites were mined about the year 1890, but no results of value appear to have been obtained. The island is said also to contain deposits of lignite near Arassia. A lignite mine has been worked, but unremuneratively, by a German company. LEMNOS (A) Communications (a) Roads, &c. — There are numerous rough tracks, especially in the plains in the centre of the island. There are three roads from Kastro (on the west coast), the first going east to Mudros, the second north to Kaspaka, and the third south to Tothanos. There is also a rough carriage-road from Mudros town to the N^Aegean] IMBROS; LEMNOS 33 air-station on the north coast. Ponies and donkeys are used for transport. A naval tram-line, three miles in length, has been constructed from Mudros town. (&) Telegraphs. — There is telegraphic communication between Kastro and Mudros. (c) Ports.— The island has at least three good natural harbours, Mudros and Kondia on the south coast, and Purnea on the north coast. The first-mentioned affords a safe anchorage for many large ships. Before the war, however, Kastro on the west coast was most used. Mudros Bay at that time had two ports, Mudros town on the east side and Port Mudros on the west side of the bay, both of which had small piers, but otherwise were ill equipped for dealing with cargo ; several piers were constructed during the Allied occupation. Mudros town possesses a custom-house ; the quay has recently been somewhat improved, but this part of the har bour is shallow. Port Kondia, westward of Mudros Bay, where there is also a custom-house, has an anchorage in 7-10 fathoms on mud, but no landing facilities. Port Kastro has a harbour for small boats with a pier and quays ; larger vessels can anchor a little farther out in about 10 fathoms. Purnea, on the north coast, is little used. (d) Shipping. — Steamers, trading with Constanti nople, Smyrna, the Piraeus, and Salonika, call regularly at the island. (e) Cable and Wireless Communication. — There are telegraph cables to Salonika and Tenedos, and a tele phone cable to Imbros. There is also a wireless station. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture.— Though water abounds, the soil is thin and sandy ; in the north, except in the immediate neighbourhood of villages, there is little cultivation, but sheep and cattle graze on the coarse grass. Grapes, corn, and some cotton are grown in the valleys and plains near Mudros, Kastro, Tothanos, Kondia, Livadhi, 34 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [*<>¦«* and Skandali. Tobacco was grown experimentally by refugees from the mainland in 1917. There are no olive-trees ; and the sheep reared on the island (normally about 40,000 head) form the chief source of profit. Grain and wine are exported. • (2) Fisheries.— -It is stated that a little fishing is done, but the boats belonging to the island are not numerous. (3) Manufacture. — There is some manufacture of cotton stuffs. TENEDOS (A) Communications (a) Roads. — There are no roads on the island. (b) Ports. — The port of Tenedos on the east side of the island is formed by a curve of the shore and a mole projecting one cable eastward. The maximum depth is 6 fathoms at the entrance. Large vessels must anchor outside, but should remain under steam. There are no facilities for handling cargo. There is a Lloyd's agent at the port. (c) Shipping. — Austrian Lloyd steamers used to call at the island every fortnight. It is also frequently visited by coasting steamers and sailing-vessels. (d) Cables. — The island is connected by cable with Khios, Lemnos, and Constantinople, and with the mainland at Beshika Bay. (B) Industry The island is fertile and well cultivated, producing raisins, corn, cotton, oil, and an excellent light wine. (C) Commerce The chief exports of the island are wine and raisins, and the chief imports wheat, flour, and textiles. The trade is conducted almost entirely with Turkey, Egypt, and Rumania. The following approximate statistics n ^ffiegean] TENEDOS ; MYTILENE 35 are taken from the reports of the British Vice-Consul at Tenedos : 1907. 1908. 1909. 1910. 1911. ^ £ £ £ £ Imports . . . 20,000 19,400 19,200 18,800 19,200 Exports . . . 10,500 7,400 8,250 8,400 9,400 MYTILENE (A) Communications (a) Roads. — In recent years money has been spent on the construction of roads, and there are now about 70 miles of first-class roads in the island. In 1914 the repairing of roads cost £12,000, and two British steam rollers were imported for the purpose. In addition there are many mule-tracks ; and mules, of which there are large numbers, are used generally for transport. (b) Posts and Telegraphs. — Posts are now delivered at all the towns and villages ; under Turkish rule letters waited till they were called for. The following places are connected by telegraph and also, for official pur poses, by telephone : Kastro, lero (Hiero), Potamos, Mandamados, Kalloni, Polichnitis, Sigri, Erisos, Moly- vos, Petras, and Skamnia. (c) Ports. — Mytilene (Kastro). This is the chief town of the island. There are two ports, known as the north and south ports. Of these the former, which has a depth of 2-5 fathoms, is the more commodious, but is little used ; it is badly obstructed by the remains of ancient moles. The south port, where the maximum depth of water is 3 fathoms, is better suited for landing cargo, as it possesses a good quay all round with about 4 ft. of water alongside, and it is therefore always used by coasting vessels. There are a small steamboat, a few motor-boats, and some lighters belonging to the port. A stock of about 1,500 tons of Heraclea coal is usually kept, and can be loaded from lighters. There is a Lloyd's sub-agent at the port. Molyvos Road, on the north coast, off the small town r> 2 36 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [*o.e4 of Molyvos, is also used as a place of call by steamers running between Smyrna and Constantinople, but has only a boat harbour. Supplies can be readily obtained. There are also two natural harbours, Port lero on the south-east coast and Port Kalloni on the south coast. Neither of these has any trade of importance, and the entrances are difficult. Port Sigri on the west coast is a place of refuge for vessels to and from Con stantinople. (d) Shipping. — Mytilene is an important trading centre, and, lying as it does on the route from Con stantinople to Smyrna, is a port of call for all steam ship lines engaged in the trade of the Eastern Mediter ranean. There is also a regular service to and from the Piraeus. The following is a return of shipping which entered and cleared at the port of Mytilene for the years 1904-7 and for 1914 : 1904. 1905. 1906. 1907. 1914. Steamers . . No. 1,426 1,365 1,489 1,531 1,654 Tons 718,138 735,547 779,205 738,298 776,973 Sailing-vessels . Xo. 2,756 2,482 2,822 2,613 4,384 Tons 27,811 26.031 26,781 30,361 25,346 Of the shipping of 1914, 153 steamers with a total tonnage of 128,168 and 10 sailing-vessels of 120 tons were British. (e) Cable and Wireless Communication. — There are cables to Khios and to Aivali on the mainland. There is also a wireless station on the island by means of which messages can be sent to Khios, Lemnos, and Syra. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture.— The long-continued subdivision of hereditary properties has had unfavourable results. The holdings of the peasants are small and scattered, with the result that much energy and time are wasted. A large part of the island is covered with olive-trees, many of which have now been pruned under Euro pean guidance with good results. The olive crop is of the first importance to the industry and trade of the island ; olive oil is exported in considerable quantities, M'AegeanJ MYTILENE 37 and the refuse oil is manufactured locally into soap, which is also exported. The following figures give approximately the yield of olive oil from the crops gathered in the years 1909-14 : 1909-10. 1910-11. 1911-12. 1912-13. 1913-14. Tons . . . 12,600 5,470 33,600 2,400 18,800 Next in importance is the valonea crop, obtained from the cups of the acorns of the Aegilops oak. The crop averages about 2,500 tons annually. Other products are vegetables and fruit of all kinds, wheat, barley, and cotton ; but of these the export is un important. At one time silk cocoons were exported in large numbers, but disease broke out and ruined the industry, and no steps have since been taken to revive it. « The island is mountainous, and pines and oak grow on the high ground. At one time the island abounded in pine-trees, but for many years under the Turkish rule these had been habitually destroyed for the sake of the bark, which was used for tanning, and no • replanting was done. When the island came under Greek rule in 1912, the destruction was stopped. (2) Fisheries. — There are plenty of fish in the waters round the island, mullet, sardines, lobsters, and dory being the most common, but the industry is insignifi cant. (3) Minerals. — The island contains deposits of anti mony, but the mines have not recently been worked, and there is no information as to the quaUty of the mineral. Other minerals said to be in the island are chrome ore, copper, alum, and coal ; there is also some marble. (4) Manufacture.— The following factories are estab hshed in the island : at Mytilene town, 2 cotton-mills, 12 olive-oil presses, 30 soap factories, 3 steam flour- mills, 30 tanneries', and 2 steam saw-mills ; at Potamos, 20 soap factories, a flour-mill, and a fishing-boat yard ; at Port lero, an oil factory, soap-works, and a flour- 38 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [*°-64 mill. There are also many small oil-mills which are worked by hand in other parts of the island, as weU as over a hundred steam oil-presses. (C) Commerce The imports consist chiefly of textiles and iron goods, the greater part of the latter being suppUed by Belgium. No figures giving the value of imports in recent years are available. The chief exports are olive oil, soap, and valonea : the greater part goes normally to Turkey or the Black Sea. The following approximate figures of the export of soap and valone'a have been taken from the British Consular Reports : 1905. 1906. 1907. 1910. 1911. 1912. 1913. 1914. Cwt. Cwt. Cwt. Cwt. Cwt. Cwt. Cwt. Cwt. Soap 180,000 220,000 180,000 45,000 225.000 30,000 12,500 15,000 Valonea 34,000 «9,000 20,000 _____ (D) Finance Banking. — The banks in Mytilene are, or were, a branch of the Banque Imperiale Ottomane, an agency of the Banque d'Orient, and one of Christofa Hadji Freres; as well as branches of the National Bank of Greece and the Bank of Athens. KHIOS (A) Communications (a) Roads. — There is a first-class road about 18 miles in length which traverses the island in a north-westerly direction from Port Scio to Volissos on the west coast, and another which goes north from Port Scio for about 10 miles to Pityos. In addition, there are numerous mule-tracks between the different villages on the island (6) Ports.— The only port of the island is Kastro (Port Scio) on the east coast. It is rectangular in shape and is protected by two breakwaters. The area of the harbour is about 750 by 360 yds., and a depth of 30 ft in the centre is kept by dredging ; alongside the quays the depth is about 6-8 ft. The total length of the quays is 1,350 yds. There is only one crane (lifting capacity Islands of 1 IT. & E. Aegean ] KHIOS 39 3-4 tons) for dealing with cargo. Minor repairs to vessels can be effected at the port. Outside there is anchorage in 12-18 fathoms on mud. There is a Lloyd's sub-agent at the port. (c) Shipping. — Kastro is a regular port of call for all the steamship lines engaged in the trade of the Eastern Mediterranean. In addition to numerous small steamers and sailing-vessels the Austrian Lloyd, the Russian Steam Navigation Co., the Panhellenic Co., the Pantaleon Co., and the Hamadieh Line visited the port regularly before the war. The island possesses about 90 sailing and 25 steam vessels, which are used in the trade of the surrounding islands and of the coast of Asia Minor. In 1914 the total number of vessels which entered and cleared at Kastro was 2,250, of which 1,068 were steamers with a total tonnage of 717,598. Of these 40 were British, with a tonnage of 32,060. Ships entered and cleared at Kastro in the years 1904-10 were : Steamers. Sailing-vessels. No. Tonnage. No. Tonnage 1904 .... 1,242 675,044 2,579 37,976 1905 . 1,250 728,226 2,820 45,040 1906 . 1,278 724,932 2,903 40,395 1907 . 1,233 736,968 2,753 39,217 1908 . 1,327 814,216 2,693 38,915 1909 . 1,426 888,608 2,648 41,982 1910 . 1,138 732,675 2,520 38,463 (d) Cables.— Kastro has a telegraph station, and is connected by two cables with Chesme on the main land, by two with Syra, with Spalmatori Island, with Tenedos, and also by Greek Government cables with Samos and Mytilene. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — Khios has been described as the most fertile of the Aegean Islands, but the proceeds of agri culture provide only a small part of the wealth of the inhabitants. The island produces olives, almonds, figs, grapes, oranges, &c, and a Uttle corn ; but agriculture is carried on mainly for the purpose of supplying local 40 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [»«.64 needs, and only olive oil and almonds are exported in any considerable quantity, though there is some export of fruit, both fresh and dried. Gum mastic, which is obtained from the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus) by incision of the bark in August and September, forms a considerable source of profit. The gum is treated on the island and is then exported mostly to Constantinople, where it is sold as a chewing gum or for dental purposes. A popular liqueur (mas- tiha) is made from it in large quantities. Tobacco cultivation was started in the island in 1910, and it is stated that in time it is Ukely to become a considerable industry. Its quaUty has been pronounced to be very much like that of the tobacco produced in Xanthi and Kavalla. Olive oil is produced in considerable quantities and is exported, j There are twelve oil-pressing estabUsh- ments. Wine is produced ; also a spirituous Uquor made from raisins, called raki. The quaUty of the latter is better than that produced in any other island of the Archipelago. (2) Minerals. — The island is reported to possess rich antimony and calcium mines, but these are not worked at the present time. Good variegated marble is also found and is quarried for local use. (3) Manufacture. — There are twelve tanneries in the island, of which five are driven by steam. The hides are imported, as is the valonea required in the treat ment. Valonea is also re-exported after having been ground at the mills established in the island. There are four large flour-mills, two iron- works, one soap factory, one factory for evaporating soap-lyes. Silk is produced and manufactured into stockings, gloves, &c. (C) Commerce The principal articles of export are leather, gum mastic, fruit (especially oranges and mandarmes), oUve oil, almonds, ground valonea. and pine-bark. The Islands of 1 IT. & E. Aegean KHIOS; SAMOS 41 trade is chiefly with Turkey, Bulgaria, and Rumania, but also to some extent with the United Kingdom, France, Italy, Russia, Egypt, and even the Far East. The chief imports are hides, wheat, barley, and flour, manufactured goods, sugar, cotton yarns, rice, planks and timber, valonea, coffee, and paraffin. The following statistics of the value of imports and exports are taken from the British Consular Reports : Imports. Exports £ .' £ 1909 . 233,950 271,000 1910 . 246.250 293,500 1911 . 268,000 297,500 1912 . 203,250 19l",400 1914 . 487,125 234,700 (D) Finance Banking. — -There are in Khios branches or agencies of the Bank of Athens and the Commercial Bank of Greece. SAMOS (A) Communications (a) Roads. — The map marks good roads radiating from Port Vathi to all the important points in the island, but most of these are not yet built. Those which can be used by carriages are : To Tigani and Khora, usuaUy in good repair. To Karlovassi, passable in good weather, but in very bad condition. To Kotzilea, suburban, in fair condition. To Flammari and Murtia Bay : this was unfinished in 1915. To Mytilene : this is unfinished and out of repair. In other parts communication is by mule-tracks. (&) Railways. — A concession to build a railway from Vathi to Karlovassi was granted in 1910 to a Greek and a British subject. No work has yet been done. (c) Posts} Telegraphs, and Telephones. — A Samian post office has been established to take the place of the 42 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [*°-6* Turkish office previously in existence. There is a good system of telephones between all the towns and villages of the island. (d) Ports. — There are several good natural harbours on the island, and Port Vathi, Karlovassi, Tigani, and Marathocampo are all capable of accommodating large vessels and possess fair loading facilities. The bulk of the trade is concentrated at Port Vathi. This port, which lies at the head of a smaU gulf on the north side of the island, is protected by a breakwater 370 ft. long, and has a harbour depth of 6-20 fathoms. The quay has 6 ft. of water alongside and there are three wooden piers. Steamers of the largest tonnage can enter and leave at any time in any weather. There is a Lloyd's sub-agent at the port. Karlovassi, 12 miles west of Port Vathi, has a harbour protected by two breakwaters. The general depth is 16 ft. ; along the quay, between the breakwaters, it is 10 ft. (e) Shipping. — Samos is the junction of three main local trade routes of the Aegean : (1) to Syra and the Piraeus ; (2) to Khios and Mytilene ; (3) to the Dodekanese and Rhodes. In consequence it enjoys a double service to the Piraeus, and has become a dis tributing and collecting centre. It is also visited by steamers from aU parts of the Mediterranean. Three Greek steamers touch regularly at Port Vathi from the Piraeus, and two from Smyrna each week. There are also in normal times weekly steamers of the Austrian Lloyd and fortnightly steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, as well as steamers of the ItaUan Servizi Marittimi. There is a daily steamer from Vathi to Karlovassi, calling at three or four smaU anchorages on the way. The following figures of the shipping entered and cleared at the island are taken from the British Consular Reports : 1904. 1905. 1907. 1908. 1910. 1914. Steamers . No. 1,476 1,200 1,230 1,294 1,260 876 Tons 363,444 349,667 377,990 435.616 467,659 465,432 Sailing- No. 3,830 3,782 3.388 2,964 3,737 450 vessels . Tons 36,809 36,503 31,727 28,520 33,996 7,076 ^Aegean] SAMOS 43 (/) Cable and Wireless Communication. — Samos is con nected by cable with Khios, and with Scalanuova on the mainland. There is also a wireless station. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — The island is fertile and well watered ; it is capable of much higher production than is obtained from it by its not very industrious inhabi tants. The agricultural products are grapes, raisins, olives, tobacco, locust-beans, and valonea. Only a smaU amount of corn is produced, and for cereals the island is almost entirely dependent upon imports. The numerous streams of the interior are used to some extent for irrigation. Oxen, sheep, and poultry exist in considerable numbers. There are large forests of oak, plane, and fir, but they are not exploited, except for the supply of fuel and timber required for the building of caiques and lighters at Tigani. Pitch and tar were formerly made in large quantities in the mountains. Wine. — A considerable amount of sweet wine (moscato or robola) is produced, and there are twenty factories engaged in the industry. The export is chiefly to France, Germany, and Malta, where the wine is used in the manufacture of vermouth and liqueurs. There is also a good red wine used for local consump tion, and a rezinato (white wine flavoured with resin) superior to that of other districts in Greece. The production of wine in 1914 amounted to about 90,000 hectolitres. Cognac is made at nine distilleries, and a fairly good liqueur called Samienne. Phylloxera has been very rife in the island, but has now been successfully combated, and American vines have been planted on a large scale. Tobacco is being cultivated to an increasing extent, and is to a certain degree taking the place of grapes. No statistics are available for the annual value of the crop. Of 700,000 okes 1 produced in 1914, about 300,000 1 1 oke=2Jlb. 44 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [aro.e* were exported to Germany and the United States, and another 300,000 were used locally for the manufacture of cigarettes. There were in 1912 as many as 33 cigarette factories in the island, employing a large portion of the population. Tobacco for this mdustry is imported in large quantities from Macedonia. (2) Minerals. — It is stated that Samos contains antimony, lead, emery, manganese, copper, calamine, and large quantities of marble, but only emery is produced. Near Platano a kind of white clay is found, which is used as a substitute for soap. (3) Manufacture. — Considerable quantities of valonea and pine-bark (pevka) are produced for use in the tanning trade. There are about thirty tanneries at Karlovassi ; the hides are nearly aU imported in the raw state (chiefly from Egypt), and subsequently re-exported as leather. There are in the island three oil-presses, some flour-mills, a weaving factory at Karlovassi, and a small factory where simple machinery is made. (C) Commerce The exports comprise wine, leather, oUve oU, tobacco, locust-beans, raisins, and emery. Sailing- vessels and fighters are built for export. In 1914 the value of the principal exports amounted to £265,000. - The chief imports are grain and flour, hardware, textiles, hides, tobacco, and alcohol. The latter is used for the manufacture of wine ; the annual value of the import is about £25,000, the greater part coming from Hungary, Russia, and Greece. The total imports in 1914 amounted to about £280,000. In 1908 it was estimated that about one-third consisted of British and British colonial products and manufactures. (D) Finance Banking.— There are agencies of the Bank of Athens at Vathi and Karlovassi. MSA°Igean] NIKARIA ; KALYMNOS 45 NIKARIA AND PHURNI Within the prefecture of Samos are included Nikaria and Phurni. Nikaria was formerly inhabited only by wood cutters and shepherds, but has now considerable olive cultivation, with vineyards and small agriculture. Fuel and timber are still cut, though much of the island is now deforested. There is no port, but steamships can anchor off Messaria (Agios Kyriakos) on the south coast or at Avdilos Bay on the north, according to the weather. There is a smaU iron mine at Messaria with a Decauville track and staith for direct loading into vessels moored inshore. Phurni is a group of almost barren islands, with numerous small coves. Sailing-vessels lie up here for the winter and for repairs, and the islands have a bad reputation for smuggling. KALYMNOS (A) Communications Ports. — Pothia is the chief harbour, and almost the whole population clusters here. The port occupies a deep Day opening southward, and has been improved by local enterprise into a safe winter anchorage for small craft ; it has a breakwater not quite completed (about 150 yds. long in 1917) and one stone-loading jetty within. Coasting steamers anchor in four fathoms abreast of the breakwater, and are safe in all but the worst weather, but cannot communicate with the shore in a south-west gale on account of the swell. The only other refuges are a deep cove on the east coast, and the channel inside Telendos islet on the north-west. The latter, however, is liable to dangerous squalls. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture.— Kalymnos consists of a rugged mass of limestone mountains, without trees and almost without shrubs, except in the narrow valley bottoms, 46 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [ho.6« which are fertile. The enclosed plain of Emborio produces fine oranges and mandarines ; the Prosta basin is mostly under figs and olives ; behind Pothia there are vineyards and vegetable gardens. Corn is hardly grown at all, and nearly all the agricultural produce required, except olives, figs, and summer vegetables, has to be brought from elsewhere. Excel lent honey is produced on apparently desert hill-sides. Bees are even brought over during the flower season from the mainland, where the Kalymniotes have many farms. (2) Sponge Fishery. — In the nineteenth century sponge- fishing was the most important industry, but even before the Italo-Turkish War the island's prosperity had suffered greatly from the competition of the North African sponge grounds and the development of the Florida sponge fisheries, which was accompUshed chiefly by Kalymniote colonists. In normal times the sponge fishery used to employ a fleet of about 400 sailing-vessels, and almost the whole population of the island. In recent years the prosperity and num ber of the Kalymniotes have declined rapidly ; and the prohibition of sponge-fishing since 1916 has deprived the islanders of their means of subsistence. The men have gone as sponge-fishers to other countries ; a large number are engaged in the Florida sponge fishery at Tarpon Springs, and others in the West Indies and Bermuda. Many hundreds of the women and children have emigrated to Crete, Naxos, and other islands within the Greek kingdom. There has been emigra tion also to South Russia, where the Kalymniotes engage in shoemaking and coffee-house keeping. The emigrants sometimes return to the island bringing with them the wealth they have acquired, and sometimes they send it home to their famiUes when these remam on the island. (3) Tobacco Manufacture.— In the slack season for sponge-fishing as many as 1,000 hands were employed in small tobacco-cutting factories. The raw material came from Macedonia, and the output, tobacco cut and M'l'egean] KALYMNOS; KOS 47 blended or cigarettes, was largely smuggled into Greece and Turkey in small skilfully handled sailing-vessels. (C) Commerce There is a large export of oranges and mandarines to Greek and Turkish ports. Good honey and wax are also exported. KOS (A) Communications (a) Roads. — There are neither roads nor vehicles ; but the mule tracks in the lowland parts are broad and usually dry. (b) Ports. — The harbour-town of Kos lies in the north-east at the end of fertile lowland, which fringes, on the north, the mountains that cross the island. Off the town is an open roadstead with good anchorage in 5-6 fathoms, and a stone jetty, the depth at the end of which is 3 fathoms. Cargo is handled with Ughters, but in east and south-east winds the surf drenches the jetty and prevents communication with the shore. The ancient harbour is badly silted, but it suffices to shelter the fleet of fast schooners and caiques, which carry the summer cargoes of fresh grapes, melons, &c, and the winter cargoes of oranges and mandarines to Alexandria, Smyrna, Salonika, and Constantinople. There is constant intercourse with Koan farms on the mainland and with the flourishing Turkish town of Budrum, where the prosperous Greek element is mostly Koan and Kalymniote. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — There is a corn-growing plateau round Antimachia in the central lowland. There are several large olive- and vine-growing villages (Pylli and its neighbours), maintained by perennial springs high on the foot-hiUs of the larger range of mountains. Very little timber exists now even in the glens. The principal 48 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [wo.6* agricultural products, other than those already men tioned, are fresh fruit, tobacco, raisins, and vegetables of all kinds. There is ample pasture above cultivation level, and large cattle are raised on the mountain farms. The island also possesses pigs, sheep, goats, and poultry. A little silk is produced near the town. (2) Fisheries.— -There is extensive fishing in the shoals, in the channel, and off the opposite coast. (C) Commerce Tobacco and fruit are exported mainly to Egypt, and also to ports of the Aegean and to Constantinople. SYMI (A) Communications Ports. — The one town on the island is piled up on the sides of a narrow open cove facing north-east, which is safe in all weathers for sailing-vessels and smaU steamers; there is anchorage in 10-15 fathoms. The harbour is much used by vessels of 200 to 300 tons, and is hardly large enough to hold the number of boats which visit it in winter. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — A few. vegetables are grown and sheep are raised on the island. But Symi men have settled in Datcha and other villages on the adjacent promontories of the mamland, where they grow corn, olives, vines, and vegetables, and are engaged in poultry-keeping and dairy farming. (2) Sponge Fisheries. — Symi early foUowed the lead of Kalymnos in sponge-fishing ; but since the prohibi tion of the occupation in 1916, the population has been much reduced by emigration. Symi men settle mainly in the Argentine and other parts of South America, whence they send their earnings home to their families. ^I'Mgean] SYMI; RHODES 49 RHODES (A) Communications (a) Roads. — Until recently there were no good roads in the island, transport being effected by mules. The ItaUans have constructed roads leading to the principal villages. (b) Telegraphs and Telephones. — There is no internal telegraphic or telephonic communication. (c) Ports. — Rhodes town has two harbours, both of them artificial, and neither suitable for large ships. The northern harbour, which is known as Tershaneh, is protected from the east by a mole 500 yds. in length with two piers, both of which were recently reported to be in a bad state of repair. The entrance to the harbour is difficult : it is exposed to the north-east and is much silted up, the depth of water being only 8 ft. The Italians claim to have deepened it to 10 or 12 ft., but it silts rapidly. Inside the harbour the maximum depth is 18 ft. There is a quay on the south side of the harbour, but owing to silting this cannot be used except by boats ; a tug can moor to the north-east mole. The southern harbour is very treacherous in bad weather ; ships must either moor bow and stern, or keep steam and be prepared to take refuge under the high ground west of the north point of the island. Having a depth inside of 10-22 ft., it is more suitable than the northern harbour for large ships ; but there is only room for two at a time. There are no facilities for handUng cargo, which is loaded into Ughters and taken out into the roadstead when the weather is good. Small wooden vessels are built at the port, and repairs to wooden vessels can be effected. (d) Shipping. — Rhodes is a port of call for all the important steamship lines engaged in the trade" of the Eastern Mediterranean. The establishment of a lazaretto at Rhodes town in 1906 was a great boon to all vessels trading with the Anatolian coast. Since 50 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [*«.e* then there has been a considerable increase in the number of hnes using the port. Before the war the following steamship lines called regularly: Messagenes Mari times, Archipelago- American Steamship Co., Pan- taleon & Co., La Phoceenne (financed by Belgian money), Khedivial Mail Steamship Co., Russian Steam Navi gation Co., Societa Nazionale di Servizi Marittimi, and Austrian Lloyd. The following figures, taken from the British Con sular Reports, show the shipping that entered and cleared at the port during the years 1908-12 : Steamers. Sailing- vessels. No. Tonnage. No. Tonnage 1908 973 -518,796 2,961 74,304 1909 . . 1,012 585,430 2,671 59,381 1910 . 740 495,651 2,304 69,706 1911 . 660 531,183 2,693 42,995 1912 . 572 528,490 706 7,900 (e) Cable and Wireless Communication. — Rhodes town is connected by cables with Marmarice, on the main land, and with Karpathos and Crete. A wireless station was estabhshed immediately after the com mencement of the Italian occupation. (B) Industry (1) Agriculture. — The island is fertile, especiaUy in the north-west, and is watered by numerous streams. In the mountains there are pine forests ; in the plains the vegetation consists of plane-trees, cypresses, and oleanders. The island is iU-cultivated ; much of the forest has been destroyed by fires for the purpose of cultivation ; and, after a few crops have been raised, the land has often been left waste. Peasant proprietor ship is universal in the island, but no effort is made to get more out of the soil than is required for the owners' wants. The chief products are fruit and vegetables, honey, wine, olives, sesame seed, and silk. Some corn is grown, but the crop has to be supple mented by imports. There has recently been extensive production of potatoes at Kremasti in the north-west. ^Aegean] RHODES 51 There are but few horses, and the only beasts of burden are mules and donkeys. (2) Fisheries. — The waters surrounding the islands of the Dodekanese contain excellent fish, and a cer tain amount of fishing is done. A large portion of the inhabitants of Rhodes were formerly engaged in the sponge-fishing industry. (3) Minerals. — There are said to be deposits of emery, lead, antimony, manganese, copper, and cala mine, but these are not worked, .and there is no informa tion as to the commercial value of the deposits. The island also produces kaolin, from which rough pottery is made for local use. There are some marble quarries. (4) Manufacture. — There are tanneries and dis- tiUeries on the island. Olive oil is manufactured, also soap, the oil for which is extracted from olive stones. (C) Commerce Approximate figures (derived from British Consular Reports) of the import and export trade of Rhodes in the years 1908-12 are : 1908. 1909. 1910. 1911. 1912. £ £ £ £ £ Imports . . 219,250 241,850 226,430 228,000 194,000 Exports . 86,375 94,500 97,500 83,000 48,100 It wiU be seen that the volume of trade remains fairly constant ; 1912 was exceptional, as trade was adversely affected by the war between Turkey and Italy. The imports consist of textiles, cereals and flour, cattle, hardware, sugar, hides, coffee, tobacco, and rice. The exports are fruit, sesame seed, leather, honey and wax, wine and spirits, olive oil, onions, cocoons, and sponges. A large amount of both imports and exports, repre sented by about £75,000 annually, consists of transit trade to and from Anatolia and the neighbouring islands, which export sesame seed, storax oil, wax and honey, almonds, figs, maize, and sponges, and import cotton and woollen goods, hardware, corn and flour, sugar, and rice. This trade might be increased, if it were not hampered by E 2 52 ECONOMIC CONDITIONS [¦•.«? the insufficiency of the warehouse accommodation at the port. The bulk of the import trade is in the hands of Austria and Germany. This is due to the cultivation of the Turkish and Jewish market by merchants of Central Europe, who consign goods direct via Trieste in subsidized Austrian steamers. The goods offered are distinguished by cheapness rather than by any other quality; and British goods, although they are in sufficient demand to cause the wholesale counterfeit of trade-marks and labels by German manufacturers, are more expensive. (D) Finance Banking. — Agencies of the Credit Lyonnais, Banque de Salonique, Anglo- Egyptian Bank, and Deutsche Orient Bank are established in Rhodes. There was a branch of the Banque Imperiale Ottomane, but pro bably this has been closed. ASTROPALIA, &c. Of the other islands of the Dodekanese little need be said. Astropalia has a serviceable land-locked harbour, which has been utilized during the war as a base for patrol vessels ; it is about a mile in diameter, with anchorage in 8-12 fathoms. Although the greater part of the island is under pasture, cultivation is not entirely neglected. Karpathos and Kasos are remote weather-beaten ridges with pasture, terrace cultivation, and fisheries ; they were never closely inhabited, and in recent years have been almost entirely depopulated. There are two natural harbours in Kasos, but little use is made of either. Khalki, off Rhodes, has fisheries. Leros has two land-locked harbours, Partheni and Lakki ; the former is about a mile deep with an inner basin and a copious water-supply ; the latter, about "YE-'Aegean] ASTROPALIA, ETC. 53 3 miles by 1, is safe in aU weathers, but is troubled by a westerly swell and has no good springs. The island has extensive corn-terraces and fertile irrigated garden grounds. There is an ample supply of vege tables, fruit, flowers, and poultry, and good partridge, woodcock, and quail shooting. Leros owes much of its prosperity to its long-standing associations with Egypt, whence rich Leriotes bring their families to summer residences scattered on the island. Patmos has a smaU harbour, which is land-locked and safe ; it is less than half a mile in diameter and has anchorage in 5-8 fathoms, and a stone quay. The soU is volcanic and rich, and there is intensive garden cultivation ; but the island is little more than a pleasaunce for its famous monastery, IJ miles from the port, which gathers rents from all over the Levant and spends them locaUy in support of the church and the schools. The only survival of its former nautical fame is the curious local industry of ship-breaking. Kappari, or Pserimo, a small island near Kalymnos, has some pasture-land and fisheries. There is also a brickfield, which supplies the district with tiles for floors and gutters. Tilos (Episkopi) grows almonds. 54 Ho. 64 APPENDIX TABLE 1.— TENEDOS Value of the principal articles of export and of the total export for the years 1908-11. (British Consular Report, Smyrna, 1908-11.) Wine ..... Raisins ..... Other goods Total . . 7,400 8,250 8,400 9,400 1908. 1909. 1910. 1911. £ £ £ £ 5,200 800 1,400 5,700 1,200 1,350 6,000 1,4001,000 5,800 1,600 2,000 TABLE 2.—TENED0S Value of the principal articles of import and of the total import for the years 1908-11. (British Consular Report, Smyrna, 1908-11. 1908. 1909. 1910. 1911. £ £ £ £ WheatFlour Other goods . 3,000 1,900 . 14,500 2,500 2,700 14,000 2,000 3,300 13,500 2,5003,700 13,000 Total . . 19,400 19,200 18,800 19,200 TABLE 3.— KHTOS Value of the principal articles export for the years 1909-12. Smyrna, 1909-12.) of export and of the total (British Consular Report, 1909. 1910. 1911. 1912. £ £ £ £ Almonds 23,000 27,500 16,000 20,000 Aniseed 3,000 3,000 3,000 — Carobs .... 7,000 5,500 5,000 4,500 Fir-bark and valonea (ground) 3,500 3,500 3,000 2,500 Fleshing 2,500 2,000 4,500 — Gum mastic . 45,000 45,000 44,000 15,000 Hides .... — — — 1,800 Leather . . . . 125,000 126,000 87,500 64,000 Olives and olive-oil 37,000 42,500 77,500 25,000 Oranges and lemons 25,000 37,500 55,000 52,100 Tobacco — 1,000 2,000 6,500 Total 2717000 293,500 297,500 191.400 MTegean] TENEDOS; KHIOS; SAMOS 55 TABLE 4.— KHIOS Value of the principal articles of import and of the total ss^So&r" 1909~12- (Bntish consuiar Report' Pood-stuffs : Cereals and flour Rice .... Sugar Coffee Minerals : Coal . Iron .... Manufactured goods : Glassware and earthenware Hardware . Cotton yarn Others Hides .... Planks and timber Dyes and colours . Fir-bark and valonea Extract of tannin . Paper and cardboard Total 1VUV. W10. 1911. 1912. £ £ £ £ 59,000 55,000 52,500 63,250 12,000 11,500 11,000 11,500 16,000 15,000 14,500 16,000 3,700 3,500 3,250 3,600 2,000 2,000 2,250 2,500 3,000 2,500 2,500 1,600 5,750 5,500 5,500 — — 2,750 5,500 16,500 16,000 14,500 11,000 29,000 28,000 27,000 27,500 60,000 80,000 110,000 40,000 9,500 9,000 9,000 9,800 6,000 5,500 5.000 4,500 5,000 6,000 5,500 4,500 3,750 4,000 2,750 2,000 2,750 2,750 — — 233,950 246,250 268,000 203,250 TABLE 5.— SAMOS Value of the principal articles of export during the years 1908 and Report, Smyrna, 1908, 1910-11.) Alcoholic drinks (other than wine) Cigarettes . Grapes (dried) Hides and skins Leather Locust-beans Olive oil Tobacco Wine . • . Other goods Total . export and of the total 1910. (British Consular 1908. 1910. £ £ 2,900 5,300 25,400 21,200 2,000 2,000 14,800 2,400 20,680 38,300 2,000 4,000 34,850 16,000 7,800 14,600 84,500 82,600 11,520 13,540 206,450 199,940 56 APPENDIX No. 64 TABLE 6.— SAMOS Value of the principal articles of import for the years 1908 and 1910. Smyrna, 1908, 1910-11.) import and of the total (British Consular Report, Pood-stuffs : Cereals and flour Vegetables, &c. Salt fish . Provisions Sugar and coffee Minerals : PetroleumSulphur . Manufactured goods : Hardware and machinery Tin sheets Cotton and woollen goods Tobacco Hides and leather AlcoholCattleWoodCigarette paper . Miscellaneous . Total imports 1908. 1910. £ £ 70,083 75,400 — 4,850 4,100 3,950 7,500 8,250 7,700 7,560 3,075 2,500 2,000 2,000 7,100 8,760 3,500 2,000 28,413 29,650 17,516 23,950 14,506 16,120 14,168 15,700 6,414 6,570 7,000 2,500 3,000 3,000 23,108 21,240 219,183 234,000 TABLE 7.— SAMOS Return of the shipping of all nationalities cleared in the foreign trade of the port during the year 1912. (British Consular 1912-13.) which entered and of Vathi (Samos) Report, Smyrna, (a) Steam Vessels Entered and Cleared. Nationality. Vessels. Tonnage. British 12 13,374 American (U.S.) . 319 78,246 Austro-Hungarian 99 183,055 Bulgarian . 2 1,506 Dutch 21 22,580 French 24 52,689 Greek 760 106,857 Italian 1 219 Ottoman 1 4 Rumanian 2 1,728 Bussian 1 1,524 Samian 101 21,217 Total 1,343 482,999 Islands of i If. & E. Aegean] SAMOS; RHODES 57 (&) Sailing-vessels Entered and Cleared. Nationality. Vessels. Tonnage British 4 117 American (U.S.) . 1 298 Austro-Hungarian 3 19 Greek 129 3,165 Ottoman . 930 7,927 Samian 2,153 19,444 Total 3,220 30,970 TABLE 8. —RHODES Value of the principal articles of export and of the total exports for the years 1909, 1910 and 1912. (British Consular Report, Smyrna, 1909, 1910-11, and 1912-13.) 1909. 1910. 1912. AlmondsCocoons Figs (dried) Fruit (fresh) and vegetables Honey and wax . Leather and hides Oil extracted from the residue of olives Olive oil Sesame seed Soap .... Storax oil . Wines and liquors Miscellaneous Total 350 ? 1,000 2,090 2,600 1,300 2,640 4,000 6,900 5,200 20,000 26,000 8,250 9,300 3,150 3,910 10,000 8,400 4,000 8,000 6,800 440 250 2,500 1,600 7,300 10,500 4,200 3,400 2,400 1,150 6,400 6,250 5,120 7,000 2,900 2,320 15,900 19,400 7,180 94,500 97,500 48,100 Included in the above-given figures are those for the re-export of goods coming from Anatolia. The total value of such re-exports for the years given above is £23,400, £24,000, and £18,690 respectively. 58 APPENDIX [Wo. TABLE 9.— RHODES Value of the principal imports and of the total imports for the years 1909, 1910 and 1912. (British Consular Report, Smyrna,- 1909, 1910-11 and 1912- 13.) 1909. 1910. 1912. Food- stuffs : £ £ £ Cereals and flour .... . 30,000 38,650 37,000 Butter 6,500 5,600 6,200 Cheese 2,500 3,200 5,000 Provisions . 700 — 6,000 Sugar . 12,000 10,600 10,000 Coffee 6,500 7,300 5,400 Manufactured goods : Cotton and woollen goods 67,000 50,000 26,000 Glassware . 2,100 3.000 8,000 Hardware . 20,000 20,000 10,200 Steel, iron and ironware 5,500 6,250 4.200 Cattle .... 15,000 14,000 26,500 Hides and leather . 13,000 14.000 7,900 Planks and timber . 8,000 8,500 6,000 Tobacco and tumbeki 5,100 4,000 5,600 Miscellaneous 47,950 41,330 30,000 Total imports . 241,850 226,430 194,000 Included in the above figures are the goods imported for re export to Anatoha. The total value of such goods for the years given above is £61,750, £51,600, £16,400 respectively. TABLE 10.— RHODES Value of the exports and imports of Rhodes, showing the countries with which trade was conducted, 1909 and 1910. (British Consular Report, Smyrna, 1909, 1910-11.) Austria-Hungary Belgium BrazilBulgaria China Cyprus Egypt FranceGermany Greece IndiaItaly RumaniaRussia Turkey United Kingdom United States . Other countries Total 1909. 1910. Exports. Imports. Exports. Imports. £ £ £ £ 7,600 25,000 4.100 21,000 — 5,500 — 5,400 — 4,700 — 5,000 8,000 3,200 7,700 4,000 — 1,800 — 4,000 3,800 300 2,550 — 17,000 8,500 10,200 6,000 8,000 9,000 5,000 11,000 1,000 " 28,000 — 24,000 2,000 1,300 — — 1,500 8,250 — — — 17,700 — 16,000 1,100 4,600 — 6,500 7,000 3,500 3,600 3,306 37,500 80,000 59,130 90,000 — 38,300 — 28,760 — 1,000 — — — 1,200 241,850 5,220 97,500 1,470 94,500 2267430 Islands of IT. & E. Aegean RHODES 59 TABLE 11.— RHODES Return of the shipping of all nationaUties which entered and cleared in the foreign trade of the port of Rhodes during the year 1912. (British Consular Report, Smyrna, 1912-13.) (a) Steam Vessels Entered and Cleared. Nationality. BritishAmerican (U.S.) French GreekItalianRumanian Russian Samian Total Vessels. Tonnage 32 55,592 106 43,278 66 45,210 18 40,500 172 39,578 95 197,798 2 2,585 63 102,501 18 1,448 572 ¦ 528,490 (6) Sailing-vessels Entered. Nationality. Vessels. Tonnage. British 2 104 Greek 1 198 Ottoman 699 7,550 Samian ....... 4 48 Total 706 7,900 Cleared. Nationality. BritishGreek Ottoman Samian Total Vessels. 2 1 719 4 726 Tonnage. 104198 7,650 48 8,000 No. 64 AUTHORITIES Historical The historical authorities are mostly included in the hst given in Greece, including the Gyclades and Northern Sporades, No. 18 of this series. Economic Diplomatic and Consular Reports : Trade of Consular District of Smyrna; Mineral Resources of Greece (1902) ; Trade and Finances of Greece. Greek Government Reports : Annual of the Ministry of the Interior, 1914 et seqq. Annual of the Ministry of National Economy, 1914 et seqq. Mediterranean Pilot. Vol. iv. Fourth edition. London, 1908. Baedeker's Guide-to Greece. 4th edition. Leipzig, 1909. Igglese, N. G. 'Oorjyos rijs 'EAXaSof. To'/^os B'. Athens, 1916. Lefeuvre-Meatjlle, H. La Grece economique et financiere en 1915. Paris, 1916. Meyers Reisebucher. Griechenland und Kleinasien. Leipzig and Vienna, 1901. Murray's Handbook for Greece. 7th edition. London, 1905. Murray's Handbook for Travellers in Asia Minor. London, 1895. Stephanopoli, Jeanne. Les lies deVEgee, leurs privileges, &C. Athens, 1912. Maps The Islands of the Northern and Eastern Aegean are covered by three sheets (Istambul, K. 35 ; Izmir, J. 35 ; Candia, I. 35) of the International Map (G.S.G.S., No. 2758) published by the War Office on the scale of 1:1,000,000. A special map of ' The Aegean Sea' (G.S.G.S., No. 3694) on the same scale has been issued by the War Office in connexion with this series. PEACE HANDBOOKS. The following is a complete list of the Handbooks prepared under the General Editorship of Sir George W. Prothero, late Director of the Historical Section of the Foreign Office. Net Prices are given of all Volumes which have been pubhshed to date. Volumes X-XXV will be issued shortly. Books marked thus * contain sections on Geography and Economics as well as on History. Those marked thus § contain Geography and History only. (A) EUROPE. Vol. I. Austria-Hungary (1). New Nos. Old Nos. f(l) History of Austria 1 J (2) History of Hungary |j3) Foreign Policy of Austria-Hungary 2 (4) Bohemia* and Moravia* 3 (6) Slovakia* 4 (4a) Austrian Silesia* ... 5 (5) Bukovina* 6 (7) Transylvania* and the Banat* 7 (8) Hungarian Ruthenia* Vol. II. Austria-Hungary (2). 8 (9) Croatia-Slavonia,* with Fiume* 9 (9a) Carniola*, Carinthia,* Styria* 10 (12) Austrian Littoral* 11 (13) Dalmatia* 12 (10) Bosnia* and Herzegovina* 13 (14a) The Slovenes 14 (14) The Jugo-Slav Movement ... Us. M. ...J ... 2s. M. ... Is. Od. ... Is. Od. ... Is. Od. ... 2s. Od. ... Os. 6d. ... 2s. Od. ... Is. 6d. ... 2s. Od. ... 2s. Od. ... 2s. Od. ... Os. M. ... Is. Od. 2 Vol. III. The Balkan States (1). New Nos. Old Nos. 15 (15) The Eastern Question ... ••• 3s. 6d. 16 (46) Turkey in Europe ... ••• 3s. Od. 17 (16) Albania* ... ... ... 2s. Od. 18 (18) Greece*, with the Cyclades* and Northern Sporades* ... ••• 3s. 6d. Vol. IV. The Balkan States (2). 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British Possessions (1). 89 90 9192 939495 (132a) The Partition of Africa ... In the Press. (100) British West African Colonies (General) (100a) Gambia* ... (101) Sierra Leone* (102) Gold Coast* (103) Nigeria* ... (104) Nyasaland* Vol. XVI. British Possessions (2) : Belgian Congo. New Nos. Old Nos. 96 (105) British East Africa*, Uganda*, Zanzibar ... ... ... In the Press 97 (106) British Somaliland* and Sokotra* 98 (107) The Sudan* 99 (99) Belgian Congo* Vol. XVII. French Possessions. 100 (108a) French African Colonies (General) In the Press. 101 (108) French Morocco* ... 102 (109) Senegal* 103 (110) French Guinea* , 104 (111) Ivory Coast* 105 (112) Dahomey* 106 (113) Mauretania* 107 (114) Upper Senegal* and Niger Terri tories* ... ... ... ,, 108 (115) French Equatorial Africa* ... 109 (116) French Somaliland* Vol. XVIII. German Possessions. 110 (117) Togoland* ... ... ... InthePress. 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Congresses : German Opinion. 153 (165) (165a) The Congress of Vienna ... 4s. Od. 154 (167) The Congress of Berlin ... ... Is. 6d. 155 (155) German Opinion on National Pohcy prior to July 1914. Parti ... ... ... is. 6d. 156 (156) German Opinion on National Policy prior to July 1914. Part II ... ... ... 2s. 6d. 157 (157) German Opinion since July 1914 ... Is. Od. Vol. XXV. Indemnities, Plebiscites, &c. New Nob. Old Nos. i«« J"(159) Indemnities in previous wars ... InthePress. 158 \(160) Subsidies and Loans (British) ... 159 (163) Plebiscite and Referendum ... „ 160 (162) Schemes for maintaining General Peace ... ... ... „ 161 (166) President Wilson's Policy (F) VOLUMES OF MAPS. 1 Austria-Hungary (10 maps) ... ... InthePress. 2 The Balkan Peninsula (8 maps) ... „ 3 Poland (8 maps) ... ... ... ,, 4 Ethnography of Central and South-Eastern ,, Europe and Western Asia (6 maps) ... „ !l.i1iir;:-!y',!'i!'; fl li ¦ !'" \vMU\.<.V.:\'i'-i:.h m 'iiihSi iSlf tt AA iSSii Ai Bill