Yale University Library

39002028027481

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YALE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

THE EARLY DAYS

OF

SANTA BARBARA

CALIFORNIA

BY
WALTER A. HAWLEY

NEW YORK
1910

The Mission of Santa Barbara in 1880
From an Etching bj> Henry Chapman Ford

THE EARLY DAYS
OF
SANTA BARBARA
CALIFORNIA

FROM THE FIRST DISCOVERIES BY
EUROPEANS TO DECEMBER, 1846
BY
WALTER A. HAWLEY

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK
1910

Copyright, 1910
By WALTER A. HAWLEY

G70

PREFACE
In disregard of the historic value of the old buildings
of the Mission, Presidio, and Pueblo of Santa Barbara — pre
cious monuments sacred to the memory of men who will be
remembered for generations to come — tiled roofs have been
destroyed, walls allowed to crumble, and foundations effaced.
Already some of the most interesting buildings have gone.
Even their former locations are known to few.
Fifteen years ago, realizing how rapidly the old land
marks were disappearing, the writer with the assistance of
an engineer made surveys both at the Mission and at the
presidio of all the buildings then standing, and also of all
the ruins and traces of foundations of former buildings.
These surveys were then carefully platted.
This work was done on account of a personal interest in
the subject, and with the view of placing the data, thus ob
tained, at the disposal of any one competent and willing to
write the history of the early days of Santa Barbara. But
the subject has awakened but little interest in the historian;
and as some of the ruins that were then surveyed have since
disappeared, the writer now offers this little sketch, accom
panied by plans of the Mission and presidio, made from the
original surveys, in the hope that it will create a greater in
terest in the lives and works of the founders of this beautiful
city. At the time of making the surveys, the writer consulted a
number of the oldest residents, who are no longer living;
and made notes regarding the old ruins and early history of
Santa Barbara. He has also gathered facts from nearly

4 PREFACE
every source, regarded as reliable ; so that he is more or less
indebted to nearly every writer on the early history of Cali
fornia, and particularly to the Rev. J. J. O'Keefe and the
Rev. Juan Caballeria.
Santa Barbara, December 20, 1909.

CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I. Introductory  9
II. The Aborigines  n
III. The Early Explorers  24
IV. The PREsmio  30
V. The Mission  48
VI. The Secularization  75
VII. The Pueblo  81
VIII. The Ranchos  95
Appendixes  99

ILLUSTRATIONS
The Mission of Santa Barbara in 1880 .... Frontispiece
Plat of the Presidio  page 33
One of the Original Houses of the Soldiers in the Presidio facing 36
The Mission of Santa Barbara in 1798  page 55
Plat of the Mission Grounds  page 57
Former Arch in Mission Wall  facing 66
The Mission of Santa Barbara in 1865  page 67
The Ground Plan of the Mission Church in 1890 . . page 71
Plat of the Pueblo of Santa Barbara  page 85
House of the Comandante  facing 88
The De la Guerra House  facing 94

INTRODUCTORY
The history of the early days of Santa Barbara not only
awakens the general interest which is felt in the causes which
lead to the founding of all cities and in the economic rea
sons for their subsequent growth, but also arouses a special
interest, as this city is one of the few in the United States
founded by an alien race. However excellent the traits and
institutions of the Anglo-Saxon race may be, each of the
other races which founded cities within the United States
has contributed something to be admired. The towns of
New York State founded by the Dutch have been influenced
by the sterling qualities of that race; New Orleans still re
flects the spirit of the French, both in its interesting archi
tecture and fascinating society; and the cities founded by
the Spanish in Florida and the southwest have charms dis
tinctly referable to their founders.
In the Mission style of architecture, characterized by its
strong yet simple lines, the Spanish introduced into the
southwest a style which probably has no superior in unaf
fected beauty. The Spanish have also contributed to the
charm of social life in all cities which they founded.
The City of Santa Barbara is one of the best representa
tives of the cities of the southwest founded by the Spanish
or their descendants. Its Mission Church is not only typical
of that style of architecture, but is the best preserved of any
in California. Also, as recorded by writers who visited this
city three-quarters of a century ago, the society here was at
that time more aristocratic and refined than on any other
part of the coast ; and the city still feels the influence of that

io INTRODUCTORY
early Spanish atmosphere which adds greatly to its in
terest. Accordingly, the study of the early history of this
city and of the life of its founders should be particularly
attractive. Many of the earliest pioneers of California were not
Spanish of pure blood, but Mexican descendants of Span
iards married to the natives of Mexico. The latter are far
more capable and interesting than is generally known. At
the time of the conquest of Cortez, the native races had
advanced to a state of semi-civilization. To-day not only
do they cultivate their own ranches, work their own mines,
and engage in various lines of industry, but some of them
are men of great force and ability. The present ruler of
Mexico, who is one of the ablest of the living rulers, is a
Mexican of nearly pure native blood. The natives are also
artistic and musical; and many of those whose ancestors
have for generations lived among the mountains of Mexico,
remote from the refining influences of city life, show a charm
of manner and delicacy of sentiment which are remarkable.
To the descendants of these native races of Mexico, inter
married with the Spaniards, as well as to the latter, is due
the credit for the founding and building of the pueblos and
Missions, and the picturesqueness of the early life of Cali
fornia.

THE ABORIGINES
It WOULD be interesting, if it were possible, to see this
part of the coast as it was a little over a century ago. There
has been but little change in the natural scenery, but it was
probably even more beautiful then than now. The rugged
peaks and upper ridges of the Santa Ynez mountains were
more heavily timbered with pine, and the valleys were more
heavily wooded with oaks. The face of the land was neither
plowed, nor fenced, nor disfigured by artificial roads. In the
spring of the year, the surface of every valley and rolling
hill was covered with bright wild flowers ; and in the fall, it
was a matting of sun-browned grass and aromatic tarweed.
The same ocean girded the coast with its chain of islands,
and reflected the blue of more beautiful than Italian skies.
Nor was nature inanimate; as droves of deer rested in the
shade of the woods, bear hid in recesses of the canyons, and
otter sported in the kelp.
But if there has been but little change in the natural
scenery the change in many other respects is very marked.
A city, inhabited by enlightened and cultured people, now
occupies the sloping plain which was then a broad field,
dotted with groves of oaks and marked with lines of syca
mores which followed the arroyo banks. In the lower
stretches of the plain and in the neighboring valleys were
Indian rancherias or villages. Over these hills and through
these valleys the Indians roamed and hunted, and out in the
channel they fished.
Compared with other races of American Indians, those of

12 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
the Santa Barbara Channel would rank neither among the
highest nor lowest in intellectual and social development.
They showed nothing of that progress towards civilization
which characterized the Incas of Peru and the Aztecs of
Mexico; yet in many interesting particulars they showed
marked superiority over the other tribes of this coast. The
Santa Ynez and San Rafael ranges of mountains separated
them so effectually from the races to the north and east, that
they enjoyed almost constant immunity from hostile attack;
a climate, mild and almost enervating with its constant sun
shine and balmy atmosphere, had its influence in predispos
ing them to peaceful lives ; and a shore rich in shell fish, and
a harbor where breakers were unknown and where fish
abounded, rendered it easy to obtain the necessities of life.
Accordingly, with freedom from warfare, with mildness of
climate, and abundance of food easily obtained, the Indians
who for many generations had lived on this part of the coast
had developed into a higher type than had those who lived
in many other parts of California.
At the time of the advent of the Spanish padres, that part
of Santa Barbara County which is near the coast was thickly
populated with the Indians, who were divided into small
tribes, each of which lived in a separate rancheria. While
some of the rancherias consisted of only a few houses, others
consisted of as many as one hundred; and as there were ap
proximately ninety rancherias within the present limits of
Santa Barbara County, including those of the Islands, the
native population was probably not less than fifteen thou
sand. Each of the tribes had a separate name which was
given to the locality where it was located. Though the
names of most of the tribes are forgotten, yet a few of these
names are still retained, such as: Tecolote, Lompoc, Naja-
layegua, Sisquoc, Suey and Tinacuac, which are the names

THE ABORIGINES 13
of ranches similar to the names of the tribes that formerly
occupied the land.
The rancherias were frequently built on sites which, on
account of the large accumulation of shells found about
them, are now known as Shell Mounds. A piece of land,
slightly elevated above the beach and favorably situated for
obtaining water, was generally chosen; and here were built
the houses, which were conical in shape, and were constructed
by implanting long poles in the ground and fastening the
tops together. These poles were then covered with reeds
and adobe, and the earth about the house was raised so as
to turn the rain from entering beneath the covering. Cook
ing was generally done in the open air; yet in the center of
the floor was the fireplace, the smoke from which escaped
through an opening at the apex of the house.
Each tribe had its head; but a number of tribes were
united under one great chief who governed both in religious
and secular affairs. In this county there was a triumvirate,
of whom Yanonali ruled over the tribes dwelling between
the Rincon and La Patera; Alioliquit ruled over the tribes
of Dos Pueblos; and Saliapuato ruled over the tribes be
yond Dos Pueblos as far as Lompoc and Santa Ynez.
Yanonali was a ruler of many excellent qualities and one
who exercised great control over his people. He welcomed
the Spaniards and rendered them much assistance; and al
though sixty years of age, when he came under the influence
of the padres, he was converted to Christianity, and was
baptized with the name of Pedro. Saliapuato, also, was
very kindly disposed towards the Spaniards and rendered
them very important services, particularly in hewing and
bringing pine timbers from the San Rafael range. He was
also noted as being the father of Tsinjuic, who was re
nowned for her beauty.

14 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
According to many of the accounts of the early voyagers,
the Indians of the Santa Barbara Channel were far from
unattractive in personal appearance, as both men and women
were well formed and had regular features. Their dark
brown faces were shaded by the long hair which fell to their
shoulders, and within the folds of which were sometimes
attached daggers of stone or flint. The men of some of the
tribes wore beards of such length that they were tied in knots
beneath their chins; but others were beardless and are sup
posed to have plucked" out their beards with bivalve shells.
The women had beautiful eyes, and many of them were
prepossessing in appearance; yet they were modest in their
bearing and agreeable in manner. They wore earrings,
bracelets, and necklaces, which were made of ivory and
shells; and to further add to their natural attractions they
painted their cheeks, and in some instances tattooed their
breasts and arms. The children, who were light-hearted
and playful, were of fair complexions and had light brown
hair and rosy cheeks.
Owing to the equableness of the climate, the clothing was
often scanty and at times exceedingly abbreviated. But al
though the men of some of the tribes dispensed with cloth
ing, yet the men of other tribes wore tunics made of the
skins of rabbits, deer, or seal. A few also wore jackets
made of the feathered skins taken from the breasts of wild
fowls. The women were more carefully clothed, and al
though some of them wore only short skirts of reeds, yet
most of them were dressed in petticoats of skins, which hung
from their shoulders and terminated in a heavy fringe which
fell to their knees. Moccasins of deer or seal skins were
worn by both sexes.
The Indians had little difficulty in obtaining food, as rab
bits, deer, quail, and wild fowl were plentiful and easily

THE ABORIGINES 15
trapped or shot with their arrows. Although they culti
vated none of the vegetables eaten by civilized races, yet
they ate acorns, which they ground into a meal and cooked,
and also the wild cherry or plum, which grows very abun
dantly along the ridges of the Santa Ynez mountains. This
fruit they called Islay, and not only the fleshy part of the
cherry was eaten but also the pits, when crushed and cooked.
They occasionally ate roots ; and were very fond of the wild
blackberry and the fruit of the tuna. The ocean furnished an
abundance of fish; but the shell fish were probably the most
esteemed article of diet and were consumed in large quanti
ties. The accumulating shells were scattered about the
houses and covered with layers of sand or earth ; until grad
ually the mounds grew in height, and the half-buried houses
were raised or replaced by others on the elevated surface.
Some of the principal Indian tribes lived on the Islands
of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel; but after the
Mission of Santa Barbara had been established, these island
tribes were persuaded by the padres to move and settle
near the Mission; although previously they had lived per
manently on the islands, and between them and the tribes
of the Coast there was constant communication as well as
barter. The boats used for crossing the channel were suf
ficiently large to carry one or two dozen men, and were
propelled by oars. They were sharpened at both ends and
made of planks, fastened carefully together by thongs of
leather and wood fibre, and rendered water tight by a coat
ing of bitumen. The Indians had canoes also, which were
made from the trunk of a single tree, and were capable of
carrying three or four men; and rafts made of brush and
covered with thatched tules were occasionally used.
The Island of Santa Rosa has been regarded by investi
gators as the locality where was manufactured most of the

1 6 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
circulating medium by which exchanges among the Indians
were effected. Their money consisted of small pieces of
shells, perforated and strung on a thong of leather; and
as the Indians were inefficient in the art of counting, the
length of the string of beads and not their number was the
guide to their exchange value.
The weapons of the hunt and warfare were the bow and
arrow, sword, spear, and club ; and were similar in construc
tion to those used by other American tribes. Arrow heads
were made of flint, porphyritic stone, and obsidian. So few,
however, have been found that it is probable that they were
generally made of hardened wood. The knives were made
of flint and obsidian, and were often carried in sheathes of
skin; but the daggers and the swords were most frequendy
made of hardened wood, although occasionally they were
made of bone or stone. Bone awls took the place of needles;
and buckskin thongs of fibre, the place of thread. Smoking
was habitual among the Indians, and many of the pipes used
by them have been found. The bowls of the pipe were
tubular in shape, and tapered gradually from the larger end
of the bowl, which was about an inch or an inch and a half
in diameter. They were made of serpentine or obsidian,
and the mouthpiece was made of the bone of a water fowl
and securely united to the stem of the pipe with bitumen.
The utensils used for domestic purposes were primeval in
construction and character, and were made almost exclu
sively of stone. Mortars and pestles for crushing acorns
and other articles of food were in common use. The mor
tars were generally from nine to eighteen inches in diameter ;
although one, twenty-seven inches in diameter and con
structed with mathematical exactness, was exhumed from
an Indian grave. Vessels called Ollas, used for holding
liquids and for cooking purposes, were made of steatite.

THE ABORIGINES 17
They were spherical in form with small openings about one-
third of the maximum diameter, and were capable of hold
ing five or six gallons. As steatite is not found near the
coast but on the Islands of Santa Rosa and Santa Catalina,
these ollas were undoubtedly obtained from the island In
dians in exchange for other articles. Cups and saucers made
of serpentine were occasionally used, and when broken the
corresponding parts were frequently re-united by bitumen.
Artificially colored baskets, used both for cooking and for
general purposes, were made of reeds, woven so closely as
to make the basket waterproof; and other baskets, used
for holding liquids, were bottle shaped, and were coated
within and without with bitumen.
The household furniture was extremely simple, and con
sisted almost exclusively of a few skins and a couch. The
latter was made by driving into the ground four forked
stakes, so as to form the corner posts of the bed, and across
these were placed poles. Transversely across the poles were
placed more slender ones which were covered with rushes.
Skins took the place of blankets, and it is stated that com
forters, made of the feathered skins of birds, were some
times used.
The natives seem to have lacked some of the savage in
stincts of other races of aborigines, and open warfare be
tween the neighboring tribes was almost unknown. They
were constantly singing, dancing, and feasting; and births,
marriages, or deaths were regarded as proper occasions for
similar demonstrations, which were enlivened by music pro
duced from reedlike instruments.
The men showed a higher regard for the women than was
usual among most of the tribes of North American Indians.
Monogamy was the prevailing custom, although the chiefs
were allowed several wives. Parents arranged for the mar-

1 8 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
riages of their children; and boys and girls were often be
trothed in infancy, and when grown were married with
formality and ceremony, of which singing, dancing, and
feasting were the principal features.
In religion the Indians were polytheistic, and some of
their mythology is very interesting. To Chepu, the
creator, were erected wooden temples for worship; and
Cabrillo relates that he saw on one of the Channel Islands
wooden temples containing idols. Their religion, like that
of the races of ancient history, was very closely associated
with superstition, as they were constantly looking for favor
able or unfavorable omens, and were influenced by their
numerous sorcerers. The latter by intimidations exercised
a considerable influence over the weak-minded and assumed
some of the functions and privileges of the classic sooth
sayer. While sickness was at times regarded as something to be
alleviated by the charms practiced by the sorcerers, yet it
generally received more practical consideration, as the medic
inal value of the herbs and roots was well known ; and even
to-day many of the native Californians prefer these Indian
remedies to the drugs of the pharmacy. The Mission padres
learned the value of some of these plants and gave them
Spanish names. To the trailing vine with aromatic, purplish
white flowers, known in science as Micromeria Douglasii,
they gave the name Yerba Buena, as it proved a most valua
ble febrifuge. The Erydicton glutinosum, a shrub with
leaves like those of the peach and with small white or pur
plish flowers, was called Yerba Santa. It has proved so
valuable for colds and bronchial troubles that it is now con
stantly used in the practice of physicians. Growing in pro
fusion near the site of the former rancheria at Hope ranch
and in many other low damp spots near Santa Barbara, is

THE ABORIGINES 19
the Anemopsis Calif ornica, a plant to which the padres gave
the name Yerba Mansa, and which was used as a specific
for many ailments. The Cascara Sagrada is known to all.
Its bark was used by the Indians for rheumatism, and to-day
it is gathered annually and shipped to all parts of the
United States and Europe. Another plant used by the In
dians and now well known to the medical world is the Grin-
delia Robusta. Its yellow composite flowers which appear in
the late summer make it easy to be recognized. Its value
is principally for pulmonary troubles, but it was formerly
used in cases of skin disease also. In addition to the reme
dies derived from the plants, the natives made use of the
temescals, or sweat-ovens, remains of which are occasion
ally found near the bank of a stream or near the ocean, to
effect cures for certain illnesses.
The Indians believed in the immortality of the soul, and
the dead were buried with care. Separate cemeteries were
used for the men and the women; and over the graves of
the former were frequently erected painted poles, to which
were attached human hair ; and over the graves of the latter
were poles, to which were attached baskets. Along the
coast, in favorite spots, may still be found the Indian ceme
teries, which were very numerous, as every tribe had its own
cemetery, which was generally very near to the village and
in many instances a part of it.
On Nidever hill, near the eastern end of the city of Santa
Barbara, a number of Indians were buried, and a few also
were buried at Burton Mound. One of the largest Indian
cemeteries was on the mesa at La Patera, and another was
near Dos Pueblos. From these two latter cemeteries it has
been estimated that the remains of five thousand Indians
have been exhumed. At La Patera all of the Indians were
buried face downwards and with their heads towards the

20 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
north, as if in compliance with some superstitious motive;
but at Dos Pueblos they were buried without regularity.
Some of the graves were surrounded by fences of wood,
others by slabs of stone, or bones of whale. A peculiar
feature of the burial was that their heads were often cov
ered with ollas, many of which were so narrow at the neck
that it has been a subject of wonder how the heads of the
Indians were inserted into the ollas and yet remained intact.
In the graves were buried weapons, utensils, and other ob
jects, used by the Indians when alive, and which it was
deemed they would require hereafter. Even the pipe and
paints were not forgotten; and in one grave were found the
remains of an Indian, who had been buried in his canoe,
prepared to cross to the shore beyond.
Different kinds of paint were frequently found in the
Indian graves. The paint was not, however, used solely
for facial ornamentation, as numerous petrographs, or rock
paintings, have been found among the caves and on promi
nent boulders, among the mountains of Santa Barbara.
Perhaps the best preserved paintings are on a hollow sand
stone rock that is known as La Pietra Pintada, or the
Painted Rock, which is in the Santa Ynez Mountains about
thirteen miles westward from the City of Santa Barbara.
Here are painted representations of the sun, and of men
and animals; and near the San Marcos pass, in a boulder
nearly twenty feet high, is a cave upon the sides of which a
checker board, suns, and anomalous forms of animal life are
easily discerned. The principal pigments used in making
the paintings were a red ochre, and white and black; and
these were applied by rubbing the pigments against the face
of the wall. The black paint has been found by analysis to
be hydrous oxide of manganese ; and the ochres were easily
obtained from the many mineral deposits found near Santa

THE ABORIGINES 21
Barbara. Other painted rocks have been found near Mon-
tecito and along the coast near Gaviota. Whether these
paintings were intended as hieroglyphics for the purpose of
conveying definite ideas, or were simply expressions of the
native artistic taste, is difficult to decide ; but they have gen
erally been found at some point frequented by the Indians.
Natives undoubtedly inhabited this coast for many gener
ations, as their burial places would indicate. Their numbers
have been generally over-estimated, yet the valleys about
Santa Barbara were very populous at the time of the arrival
of the first Europeans. But with the founding of the Pre
sidio, the idle, careless life which for ages of the past they
and their ancestors had lived, was with one stroke ended.
Civilization, indispensable to those reared amidst its bless
ings, was fatal to these children of barbarism; and in a few
years nearly all passed away.
The story of the lost Indian woman of San Nicholas
Island well illustrates to what crude conditions of living the
Indians could adapt themselves; yet how deleterious were
the effects of the comforts of civilization. Formerly a large
number of Indians lived on the island, but many were exter
minated by a force of Indians from Alaska, who accom
panied a party of Russians on one of their periodical visits
to hunt otter.
In the year 1835, a schooner, named Peor es nada,* was
sent by the padres to bring the remaining Indians to the
mainland. After they were collected on the beach, pre
pared to embark, one of the women, noticing the absence of
her child, begged the captain of the schooner to wait while
she went to search for it. Before her return, a storm of
great violence arose; and as there was no harbor at the
island, it became necessary to set sail and run before the
* Note : — The Spanish equivalent is " Nothing is worse."

22 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
wind. After the storm abated, the schooner made its way to
San Pedro, and the Indians were taken from there to the
Mission rancherias. It was the intention of the captain of
the schooner to return to the island for the woman ; but he
was ordered by the owners to sail for Monterey and take
a cargo of lumber from that port to San Francisco. While
entering the Golden Gate, the schooner was capsized and her
crew were lost; and as there was no other vessel on the
southern coast sufficiently large to make the passage to San
Nicholas with safety, all hope of immediately rescuing the
woman was abandoned and she was soon forgotten.
In 185 1, Mr. George Nidever, when visiting the island,
was surprised to find, on the hard beach, human footprints
the size of a woman's foot; but before he was able to make
any satisfactory investigation, a strong wind arose, which
made his stay at the island precarious, and he returned to
the mainland.
Reference to the footprints recalled to the minds of
others the fact that an Indian woman had been abandoned
on the island sixteen years before ; and in the following year
Mr. Nidever returned to the island in the hope of finding
her; but again a storm drove him away before meeting with
any success.
In July, 1853, he again sailed for the island with a crew
of men, prepared to make a thorough search. The first day
spent on the island they were unsuccessful, but on the second
day a basket was found; and shortly afterwards, three small
huts made of ribs of the whale and covered with brush were
discovered. A short distance from these huts was observed
another, in which was seated an Indian woman surrounded
by dogs. She presented a most strange appearance with her
long hair falling over her bare shoulders, and with a gar
ment, made of the greenish black feathered skins of the

THE ABORIGINES 23
cormorant, partly covering the rest of her body. By her
side were some roots, and when first noticed, she was in the
act of separating some blubber from a piece of seal skin.
She had probably not seen a human being for eighteen
years, and showed signs of alarm at the sight of Mr. Nidever
and his companions; but when they approached and showed
no disposition to harm her, she arose and offered them some
of the roots to eat. She had undoubtedly lost the faculty
of expressing herself in language, as neither Mr. Nidever
nor any of the Indians who afterward met her could under
stand what she said; yet when by signs he conveyed to her
the idea that she was to accompany him to the mainland, she
showed much pleasure and hastily gathered together her
few belongings in readiness to depart. Among these were a
number of water-tight vessels, similar in appearance to jars,
but constructed of grass and lined with bitumen.
The party remained a month at the island, during which
time she cheerfully assisted in the work; and when not
otherwise engaged wove baskets of grass, which she lined
with bitumen, by placing in the bottom a small portion, and
upon this a pebble heated very hot. The basket was then
rotated rapidly, so that the melting bitumen spread and
covered the inside with a smooth coating.
Upon reaching Santa Barbara, she was taken to the home
of Mr. Nidever, where she was cared for by his wife. It
was supposed that her child had died, soon after she was
abandoned on the island; and, evidently, her only compan
ions were the dogs. Although never able to express herself
so as to be understood, yet she was of a cheerful disposition,
and frequently sang when at work. She lived, however, only
a very short time after her rescue from the island, and her
death was undoubtedly due to changed conditions of living.

THE EARLY EXPLORERS
After the conquest of Mexico and the discovery of the
Pacific, several explorers, eager to emulate the success of
Cortez and Balboa, sailed along the western coast of North
America. One of them, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was the
discoverer of Alta California, and was the first European
who is known to have visited the shore of Santa Barbara.
He was a navigator of considerable energy and courage, and
although a Portuguese by birth, was engaged in the service
of Spain. Believing that the Atlantic and Pacific oceans
met in such latitudes as would afford an easy communication
between the old world and the new, he resolved, if possible,
to make this discovery.
Accordingly, he set sail with his two ships on the 27th of
June, 1542, from the Port of Navidad, Mexico. He di
rected his course northward, and after touching at several
points of Baja California entered the harbor of San Diego,
in September of that year, and thus became the discoverer
of Alta California. Leaving San Diego a few days later,
he continued his voyage up the coast, landing at the different
islands as he passed, and touching at different points on the
mainland, at each of which places he went through the
formality of taking possession of the land in the name of
his sovereign.
About the middle of October, just fifty years after Colum
bus discovered America, he entered the harbor of the present
City of Santa Barbara, and as he approached the shore he
was met by natives, who went out in their canoes and re-
24

THE EARLY EXPLORERS 25
ceived him with demonstrations of friendliness. It has
been maintained that he landed on the beach of the present
City of Santa Barbara, and was conducted by the Indians to
their village, where presents were exchanged. After leaving
the valley of Santa Barbara, which he described as one of
great fertility, he crossed to the Islands of Santa Rosa, Santa
Cruz, and San Miguel ; and thence continued his way north
ward to a point on the coast almost within sight of the bay
of San Francisco.
The severity of the winter storm made it impracticable to
proceed further; and, accordingly, he returned southward
and landed on the Island of San Miguel. It was his inten
tion to winter there and recover from a recent injury to his
arm; but on January 3, 1543, he died. On that little island
of the Pacific, in sight of the lands of his discovery, within
sound of the never-ceasing roar of the ocean, which he had
made subservient to his purpose, the great explorer found a
fit resting-place. No trace of his grave remains. His name
and his deeds are almost forgotten.
Other voyages followed, and in the summer of 1602,
Sebastian Viscaino set sail from Acapulco, with three large
vessels and a transport. Under his command was a force
of about two hundred men, and three Carmelite friars. He
directed his course northward along the western coast of
North America, and on the 12th of November, 1603, en
tered the harbor of San Diego, where he remained ten days.
He then continued his course to the north and entered the
present harbor of Santa Barbara.
One of the Carmelite friars who accompanied Viscaino,
was Antonio de la Ascension, a man of considerable learning
who compiled information regarding the countries visited,
made maps, and gave names to the places visited. It was his
custom to name each new place after the particular saint

26 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
whose festival occurred on the day on which the place was
entered. Consequently, the 4th of December being the anni
versary of the death of Santa Barbara, her name was given
to the bay which they entered that day and to the shore
where the City of Santa Barbara is now located.
Some authorities claim, however, that Viscaino did not
land on the shore at Santa Barbara, but that the ships were
visited by the natives, who went out in their canoes and wel
comed the newcomers with solemn chanting. Afterwards
the chief of the Indians went aboard the ship of Viscaino
with presents, and observing that the sailors were unaccom
panied by their wives, and wishing to persuade them to
visit his people, he offered as an inducement to give ten wives
to each sailor. But as Viscaino did not regard the induce
ment sufficiently alluring, he continued his voyage northward
and then returned to Mexico. Although he was not the first
discoverer of California, yet his voyage was important on
account of the maps and authentic information which he
was able to furnish Europe, regarding this part of the
world. The history of the patron saint of Santa Barbara must be
of interest to all who visit the city named after her; and
while some discredit has been thrown upon the legend, yet
it probably contains much that is true, as the essential fea
tures are in keeping with the spirit of the age when she is
said to have lived. It is related that she was born in the
year A. D. 218, in Nicomedia, a city of northern Asia
Minor, and was a daughter of Dioscorus, a man of rank
and influence among the Romans. At this time, Alexander
Severus, an emperor friendly to the Christians, ruled at
Rome; and it is not improbable, as is related, that Barbara
was made a convert to Christianity by the famous Origen,
who lived at that time. Upon the assassination of Severus

THE EARLY EXPLORERS 27
and the usurpation of Maximinus, a great change took place
in the treatment of the Christians by the Romans. Origen
tells us that Maximinus, fearing that the Christians would
avenge the death of Alexander Severus, commanded that
the bishops and other Christians of influence should be killed.
Acting under the authority of this edict, the pagan priests
and magistrates persecuted and put to death, not only the
bishops, but Christians of all orders.
The legend of Santa Barbara relates further, that Dios-
corus was one of the many who were indefatigable in their
persecution. His cruelty was so extreme that Barbara,
whose gentle nature had become more refined and ennobled
under the influence of Christianity, besought him to spare
the Christians. When, however, he discovered that she too
had become one of that hated sect, he ordered her to be
confined in a tower, and for a time had recourse to various
arts in the hope of persuading her to abjure her religion.
As he was unable in this way to accomplish his purpose, he
inflicted upon her the most cruel torments, which she bore
with wonderful fortitude for a girl of but seventeen years
of age. At last, unable by either arts or torments to influ
ence her, he became so enraged at his failure that he slew
her with his own hand. After her death, Barbara was
revered as a saint by the Christians, and among some of the
nations was venerated as the patroness of artillery.
Although Viscaino had carefully examined the coast of
California, and had furnished to Spain not only maps but
also reports of its resources and fertility; yet so illimitable
seemed the other territory that Spain had acquired in North
and South America, that over a century and a half passed,
before California became again an object of interest to the
outside world.
Two causes finally led to a renewed interest in California.

28 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
The Russians, who had acquired possessions in Alaska, be
gan about the year 1750 to explore the Coast of California
from the north, so that Spain became apprehensive that she
might lose this part of her territory; and another and
equally effective cause was the desire of the Franciscan
order, which in connection with that of the Jesuits had been
most successful in building a chain of Missions through
northern Mexico and Baja California, to establish Missions
along the coast of Alta California also.
Accordingly, in 1768, orders were issued by King Charles
III, of Spain, to the Viceroy in Mexico, that San Diego and
Monterey should be occupied and garrisoned; and two expe
ditions, one by land and one by sea, were at once determined
upon. When Father Junipero Serra, who had charge of
the Missions in Baja California, was informed of the in
tended expeditions, he at once signified his intention to accom
pany them in person; and the Missions previously estab
lished were called upon to furnish the necessary priests and
church paraphernalia, as well as the horses and cattle, re
quired for the new Missions.
In the following year, the expeditions set forth for San
Diego. The one by land was exposed to many hardships;
the other by sea was also not without its misfortunes, as one
of the vessels lost its bearings, and sailing too far north
ward landed by mistake on one of the islands which form
Santa Barbara Channel. On the beach of this island the
padres lost a small iron cross, which was found by the
natives, who returned it, as the vessel was about to sail,
and in commemoration of this circumstance, the island was
called Santa Cruz.
After the founding of San Diego Mission, Governor
Portola, Father Serra, and Sergeant Ortega, who subse
quently became comandante of the Santa Barba pueblo,

THE EARLY EXPLORERS 29
marched northward along the coast to Monterey, passing,
en route, the present site of Santa Barbara, which they
named San Joaquin de la Laguna.
After the founding of Monterey, other Missions were
speedily established along the coast in the southern and
central parts of the state; but the country bordering on
Santa Barbara channel was the last to receive the attention
of Spain. In 1775, however, Felipe de Neve, who had
hitherto been only nominal governor, received his commis
sion from the king of Spain as governor of California, with
instructions to make Monterey the seat of his government.
As none of the Missions lying between San Diego and
Monterey were protected by presidios, Neve realized the
importance of establishing a presidio and Mission on the
Santa Barbara Channel ; and with the sanction of the king of
Spain and the assistance of Junipero Serra, preparations
were made to accomplish this object. Although delayed
in carrying out his plans, yet in the spring of 1782, the
Mission of San Buenaventura was founded ; and it was then
decided to at once found another Mission on the Channel
ten leagues further to the north, and to build a presidio at
such place as should be determined upon, for the protection
of the channel Missions.

THE PRESIDIO
About the middle of April, 1782, Captain Jose Fran
cisco Ortega, in command of fifty men and accompanied by
Governor Neve and Father Junipero Serra, left the newly
founded Mission of San Buenaventura and marched along
the coast between the ocean and the high cliffs which flank
the ocean side. There were no roads in those days, but
Indian trails extended along the beach. Indian villages were
met with here and there; and when the pioneers crossed
the Rincon Creek and entered the fertile valley of Car-
pinteria, these villages became more numerous. At last
they reached the lagoon which formerly existed in the lower
part of this city and covered the present estero, reaching up
to the old De la Guerra gardens. Passing around the
lagoon, they found on its western side a large Indian village,
to which the name San Joaquin de la Laguna had previously
been given, and which was ruled over by Yanonali. Here
it was decided the new presidio should be built.
The 2 1st day of April, 1782, was the natal day of Santa
Barbara. It is not difficult to relate what occurred on that
memorable morning, for what the records fail to mention is
supplied by a knowledge of what occurred at the founding
of other presidios. The soldiers, with faces bronzed by
exposure and clad in leathern waistcoats and leggins, were
assembled near the intersection of Canon Perdido and Santa
Barbara streets, where now only a few of the old buildings,
crumbling to dust and forgotten, remain to mark the site of
the presidio. From the many rancherias throughout the
valleys the Indians had come, impelled by curiosity and awe ;
30

THE PRESIDIO 31
and it must have been with intense interest that they watched
the newcomers and wondered at their purpose.
Father Junipero, clad in alb and stole, stood in a
hastily constructed chapel of brush before a roughly hewn
table used as an altar. The soldiers, under the command
of Governor Neve and Captain Ortega, then formed in a
square, and having laid aside their shields and lances, knelt
with bared heads while the reverend Father with uplifted
hands invoked the blessings of heaven upon the congrega
tion and their undertaking. After the dedication of the
spot, the cross was raised, mass was celebrated, and an im
pressive sermon was preached. With these simple cere
monies was founded the City of Santa Barbara; and a
record of the events, in the handwriting of Junipero Serra
and signed by himself, is preserved among the old archives
of the parochial church.
It was the expectation of Junipero Serra, who was en
tirely absorbed in the advancement of the Church, that as
soon as temporary dwellings were provided for the accom
modation of the soldiers, work would be commenced on the
founding of the Mission; but Neve felt that their position
among unknown tribes would be insecure until the fortifica
tions and buildings of the presidio had been at least partly
completed; and, therefore, declined to take any immediate
steps towards the founding of the Mission. The venerable
Serra was greatly disappointed at the decision, and shortly
afterwards left Santa Barbara for the Mission of San Carlos,
which he had founded at Monterey. He was nearly sev
enty years of age, yet he traveled all the distance on foot,
as was his custom. It was his last long journey, and there
on the 28th of August, 1784, he died.
The name of Junipero Serra deserves more than a pass
ing notice, as it is inseparably connected with the founding

32 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
of the Missions of California, the influence of which, in en
lightening the crude minds of the natives, has perhaps been
too little appreciated. Serra was born on November 24th,
17 13, at Petra, in the island of Majorca, and was baptized
as Miguel Jose, but he assumed the name of Junipero when
he became a monk of the order of Franciscans. At the time
that the Jesuits were expelled from Mexico, and the Mis
sions which they had built in Baja California were turned
over to the Franciscans, Serra, who was then living in
Mexico, was made the presidente of those Missions. When
he began the task of founding the Missions of Alta Cali
fornia, he was about fifty-five years of age, tall, and erect
in stature ; and although his constitution had been enfeebled
by constant vigils and fasting, yet he possessed both the
indomitable perseverance and energy essential to the accom
plishment of such an undertaking. In his efforts, he was
actuated by none but the purest and most disinterested of
motives, regarding himself as a chosen instrument for the
conversion of the Indians. His self-imposed penances and
acts of contrition were worthy of a monk of the Middle
Ages; and the high esteem and affection with which he was
regarded is best attested by the manner in which the news
of his death was received. When he ceased to breathe, and
the tolling bells of San Carlos Mission conveyed the sad
news, the whole population mourned. A weeping crowd of
soldiers and neophytes assembled at his bier, and forming
a long procession, carried the remains and placed them be
fore the altar, where they remained in state until borne to
their final resting place.
After the religious ceremonies of dedicating the presidio
had been performed, temporary lodgings of brush and mud
were prepared for the soldiers; and these were surrounded
by a palisade, constructed of branches of oak and sycamore

THE PRESIDIO

33

' 7 7

^

1 I f

»»«»^

y

7 1 ? 1 1 ? i ? /i ?

' ' ' 7 7

Plat of the Presidio
1 Comandante 3 Sergeant's House 6 Guard House
2 Alferez 4 Quartermaster 7 Soldiers' Quarters
5 Store House

34 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
trees, making an enclosure of about sixty yards square. The
foundation of the permanent presidio was then begun on a
slight eminence, about fifty feet above the level of the sea,
and flanked on the left by the lagoon, which approached
near to one of the walls. The exact location is easily de
termined by reference to the Sloyd school which occupies
what was the easterly corner.
The plan of the presidio was simple; yet, when carried
out, showed how admirably it was adapted to the purposes
for which it was designed. The buildings were constructed
about the sides of an open piece of ground approximately
three hundred and twenty feet square, the front of the
buildings forming unbroken lines facing the square, and the
rear of the buildings forming a wall. For additional pro
tection, an outer wall was planned to surround the buildings
and leave an open space about eighty feet in depth between
it and the buildings. Thus, if the enemy had been able to
surmount the outer wall, they would still have been con
fronted with the almost solid wall formed by the rear of the
houses, and exposed to the fire of the soldiers from the
openings, used as windows.
It must not be assumed that the presidio was laid out with
scientific exactness, or that the proportions of the several
buildings conformed to any arbitrary standard, as the draw
ings of some historians would incline us to believe. The
little force which founded and built the presidio were un
accompanied by either engineer or architect, so that the
walls lacked the mathematical exactness of right-angled
parallelograms; and the buildings were of slightly different
lengths and heights. But the difficulties under which the
builders worked should atone for any such irregularities
which added to the interesting appearance of the presidio,
rather than detracted from it.

THE PRESIDIO 35
The permanent buildings were substantially built of
adobe and mortar, resting on solid stone foundations. The
first to be erected occupied the northeast and southwest
sides of the quadrangle, and were used as dwelling houses
for the soldiers. The main entrance, which was on the side
towards the ocean, was about twenty feet in width and was
always carefully guarded. To the right of this entrance,
were the storehouses; and on the left was the guardhouse
and also the house of the sergeant. Directly facing the en-
v trance, and on the northwest side of the square, was the
church, the high roof of which, surmounted by a wooden
cross, made it the most noticeable structure of the presidio.
The rest of this side was occupied by the dwellings of the
officers, of which that of the comandante occupied the po
sition farthest to the right and at the northerly corner of
the square.
The outer wall which surrounded the buildings was built
of adobe, resting on a foundation of stone, and had a thick
ness of seven feet and a height of twelve feet. In addition
to the main entrance, there was a small opening in the south
west side of the wall, which was frequently used, but which
could be easily closed, in case of necessity. At the easterly
corner of the presidio was erected a bastian, in which was
stationed a small iron cannon. Two other iron pieces and
one brass six-pounder, which were placed in the square
facing the entrance, completed the artillery.
As the Mexicans were most expert riders, and as a very
large country was under the protection of but a handful of
soldiers, it was but natural that they should be prepared to
be converted at any moment into a company of cavalry. Ac
cordingly, the spaces on both sides of the main entrance and
between the buildings and outer wall were used as corrals,
where the horses could be stabled.

36 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
The garrison was supplied by springs of water, near at
hand; but as a precaution against a siege, a well was sunk
in one corner of the square. With a supply of water and
with storehouses filled with grain, with cannon for protec
tion against attack, and horses ready for sallies, this small
force of light-armed soldiers was well prepared to protect
itself against many thousands of unwarlike Indians, armed
only with bows and arrows; yet the presidio of Santa Bar
bara was but an outpost in the wilderness; and was over
two hundred miles distant from the nearest neighboring
presidios, where equally small garrisons were located. Un
known dangers surrounded this handful of men, yet they
were filled with the enthusiasm of Argonauts ; and to add to
their cheer, from the center of the square rose a flagpole,
from which floated, at first, the colors of Spain, and, later,
those of the Mexican Republic.
Although the plan of the presidio was simple, and the
soldiers were assisted by a few sailors, yet the work at first,
progressed slowly; later, however, it advanced more rap
idly when by offering food and clothing Captain Ortega se
cured the services of the Indians, who were most useful, not
only for procuring fish and game, but also for making adobe
bricks, and hewing and hauling timbers. Gradually the mud
and brick huts were replaced by solid adobe structures, faced
with mortar and brightened with a coat of whitewash; the
cane and thatched roofs were covered with bright red tiles;
and heavy oaken doors, which could be secured in case of at
tack, were hung in the exits at the rear of the buildings.
Yet every part of the structures was necessarily simple. The
windows were merely small openings in the sides of the
walls, which could be closed by wooden shutters; the hard
ened ground, on which may have been thrown the skin of a
deer, was the only flooring; and all of the furnishings were

One of the Original Houses of the Soldiers in the Presidio

THE PRESIDIO 37
exceedingly meagre. Each of the separate houses consisted
of two or more dwelling rooms, to which in several instances
a kitchen was subsequently attached, although the cooking
was often conducted in the open air.
In 1793, just eleven years after the foundation had been
begun, the governor referred to the Santa Barbara presidio
as being in the best condition of any in California. All of
the houses were roofed ; the outer wall was erected ; and the
presidio was completed with the exception of the church,
which was begun shortly after. In 1797 it was finished,
and was dedicated on the festive day of Saint Guadalupe.
It was the first church erected in Santa Barbara, and for
more than half a century, divine services were held within
its walls. It was an adobe building twenty-four feet in
width with a depth of sixty feet, exclusive of the sacristy.
The interior was adorned with statuary and paintings; and
many years later, but previous to the year 1826, it was fur
nished with an organ. Until the present parish church was
erected in 1854, it was attended not only by the soldiers but
by the residents of the pueblo. It was the first object to at
tract attention, as one entered the presidio, and was still
standing, long after the fortifications had crumbled away.
Adjoining the church, but without the presidio walls, was
the burial ground, where the soldiers and the first settlers
were buried until the year 18 18, when a cemetery was estab
lished near the foothills.
Some of the adobe buildings which formed the southwest
side of the quadrangle and which were occupied by the sol
diers and their families are still standing, although with the
exception of the temporary huts, they were the first buildings
to be erected in Santa Barbara, and are much over a century
old. Another of the original buildings, that was used for
officers' quarters and was located on the northwest side of

38 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
the square, is now so modified that it has lost much of that
appearance of age which is characteristic of the other build
ings, but may still be found at the rear of a more modern
house facing on Canon Perdido street. These and the house
of the comandante which is located three or four rods north
westerly from the corner of Santa Barbara and Canon Per
dido streets are the only remaining buildings of the presidio.
No effort has been made to modernize the houses on the
southwest side of the square. They bear the unmistakable
evidences of age; yet the sun and rain of over a hundred
years have failed to wear away the adobe walls. Beneath the
tiles appear the cane and thatched roofs that were placed
there over a century ago, and many of the doors and win
dows remain as they were when the presidio was built. Of
the rest of the presidio nothing remains but the occasional
tracings of the outer walls. Every indication of the cemetery
has been effaced. The bells and relics of the old presidio
church have been removed to the present parochial church,
while the ruined walls and houses have given back to earth
the soil, from which they were made. Yet in the days of
its prosperity, the presidio of Santa Barbara, with its regular
and well-constructed houses, white walls, and red tile roofs,
presented a more favorable appearance than that of any
other settlement along the coast.
Until the discovery of gold in California and the con
sequent growth of San Francisco and the cities of the
interior of the state, Santa Barbara was one of the most
important places in Alta California. The whole of the ter
ritory occupied by the missionaries was divided into four
districts, in each of which was built a presidio; and the
officers of these presidios had both military and civil juris-
dication over their respective districts. The presidio of
Santa Barbara had jurisdiction over the Missions of La

THE PRESIDIO 3g
Purissima, Santa Ynez, Santa Barbara, San Buenaventura,
San Fernando, and the pueblo of La Reyna de los Angeles.
Though the most important of the presidios was at Mon
terey, as it was the official seat of the governor and the
territorial deputation ; yet the presidio of Santa Barbara was
undoubtedly next in importance, and its officers had consid
erable prestige in the government of the territory. There
seemed to be an established rule that, in the event of the
death of the governor, the comandante of Santa Barbara
should succeed as acting governor, until an appointment
should be made. This happened when upon the death of
Governor Jose Arrellago, Jose Arguello, the comandante
of Santa Barbara, became governor; and Pablo Vicenti de
Sola, when taken ill during his administration as governor,
provided that in the case of his death, Jose De la Guerra,
who was at that time comandante at Santa Barbara, should
succeed him as governor. The district of Santa Barbara
seems to have been the richest in cattle, hides, and tallow,
which constituted almost the only commodities of trade that
California then had. About the year 1825, the terri
tory under the jurisdiction of Santa Barbara had
probably not less than 300,000 head of cattle and 25,000
head of horses, although these numbers rapidly decreased
after the secularization. The appropriation that was made
from the royal treasury for the presidio of Santa Barbara,
previous to the independence of Mexico, amounted ap
proximately to $15,000 per annum, and was expended, prin
cipally, in the maintenance of about sixty soldiers. These,
however, were divided among the different Missions of the
district, so that a force not much exceeding half that number
remained at the presidio.
The officers of the presidio were civil as well as military
and consisted of the comandante, or commander, who had

40 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
sometimes the rank of lieutenant but generally that of cap
tain; of an alcalde, or justice of the peace; of an alfarez,
or ensign ; and the habilitado, who had charge of all branches
of the revenue and was generally postmaster. The duties
of habilitado were frequently discharged by the comandante.
The first comandante was Captain Jose Francisco Ortega,
who for two years was engaged in the work of building the
presidio and laying the foundation upon which rested the
future prosperity of this district. While he may have been
severe in the exercise of his office, yet he was a man of in
domitable energy and untiring in his efforts to establish a
presidio in which no essential should be wanting. One of
his enterprises was the construction of a stone reservoir, and
a ditch through which the water from Mission Creek was"
conducted for irrigation purposes; and through his efforts
farming was begun on a' large scale upon the land adjoining
the presidio. An orchard was planted beyond its western
wall, and three or four fruit trees that were subsequently
planted in this orchard are still alive. His attention was
also directed to stock raising, and through his efforts the
presidio acquired a number of horses and cattle, the first
of which came from San Buenaventura; and within a few
years they multiplied very rapidly. After being in command
for two years, Ortega was removed to assume other impor
tant duties, and at one time was comandante of Monterey.
His life had always been an active one. He was born in
the state of Guanajuato, Mexico, and engaged in mining in
early life, but subsequently drifted to Baja California,
where he entered the military service. He accompanied the
expedition under Governor Portola in 1769, the object of
which was to found the Missions of Alta California; and
rendered signal service to these first pioneers, in exploring
the way among the Indian tribes of the coast. After serving

THE PRESIDIO 41
as comandante at Santa Barbara and Monterey, he con
tinued to perform military duty until shortly before his
death. He was beloved by the people of Santa Barbara, and
when he died was sincerely mourned.
In 1784 Ortega was succeeded in command by Captain
Felipe de Goycoechea, who was the comandante at Santa
Barbara until 1802. During his term of office the presidio
and most of the Mission buildings were finished. After
leaving Santa Barbara, Goycoechea was made governor
of Baja California.
Goycoechea was succeeded by Lieutenant Raimundo
Carrillo, who for five years was comandante at the presidio,
and discharged the duties of his office with firmness yet
clemency. This period was rendered memorable by the
earthquakes of 1806, which damaged not only some of the
buildings of the Mission, but also the presidio chapel. The
walls of the latter were badly cracked; and a severe gale,
two months later, almost completely destroyed the edifice.
Carrillo was born in 1749, at Loreto, the capital of
Baja California; and came to Alta California about twenty
years later, at which time he became a soldier. He served
as a corporal, at Monterey, and later as a sergeant, at Santa
Barbara. Shortly afterwards he was made lieutenant and
comandante at Monterey; and two years later was coman
dante at Santa Barbara. He was a very efficient officer and
a man of much intelligence.
Carrillo was succeeded in command by Captain Jose Dario
Arguello, who for nine years was comandante at Santa
Barbara. One of the most important acts of his adminis
tration was the opening of common schools; but unfortu
nately they received but_ little public support, although sev
eral excellent instructors were secured. As he was enterpris
ing and public-spirited, he would have accomplished much

42 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
more during his administration were it not for the disas
trous earthquakes which began in December, 1812, and re-
occurred with frequency until March of the following year.
These earthquakes were the severest recorded in the history
of Southern California; and considerable damage was done
to every Mission along the coast from Purissima, at Lom-
poc, to San Juan Capistrano near San Diego. At Puris
sima, not only the church and some of the Mission buildings
but a great many of the Indian houses were completely
demolished. At San Juan Capistrano, the new stone church
which was finished the preceding year was destroyed; and
nearly all of the fifty people who were attending mass on
the morning when the first severe earthquake occurred were
killed. At Santa Barbara, a number of the Mission buildings
were totally destroyed; and the damage to the presidio
buildings was so extensive, that the re-building of the presi
dio on a different site was seriously contemplated. It is
stated that the earth opened in many places, and that a
tidal wave broke upon the shore. Though many of the
reports were doubtless exaggerated, yet for several weeks
the greatest consternation prevailed among the people; and
even the ensign wrote the governor that he was convulsed
with fear.
Captain Arguello was born in Queretaro, Mexico, in
1755, and at twenty years of age enlisted as a soldier. He
rose to be a captain through his intrinsic worth, and became
one of the most influential men in California, where he re
sided for thirty-four years. For a short time he was acting
governor of Alta California, and, subsequently, served for
several years as governor of Baja California.
Arguello was succeeded, in 18 15, by Captain Jose An
tonio De la Guerra y Noriega, whose military command

THE PRESIDIO 43
extended over a period of twenty-four years, during which
the presidio passed through the best days of its existence.
At the time he assumed command, the presidio was com
pleted and was in the best condition of any in California;
all of the Mission buildings had been erected, with the ex
ception of the present stone church, which was founded the
same year and completed five years later; the pueblo had
begun to spring up around the presidio; and some of the
Mexican soldiers had received grants of ranches. Santa
Barbara had reached a position of dignity and importance
among the settlements of the Pacific Coast. Although
Monterey was the capital of Alta California, yet the gov
ernors frequently visited Santa Barbara, and several guber
natorial proclamations were made during their visits here.
Meetings of territorial officials were also occasionally held
at the presidio, and its comandante was a man of consequence
in the affairs of the coast.
Entirely isolated from the civilized world, startling
events at Santa Barbara were few; yet so widely scattered
were the settlements and the population of each was so
small, that events which now might seem of most trivial
importance appeared then as fraught with gravest conse
quences. One of the interesting events which occurred
during the command of Captain De la Guerra, and for
several days occasioned much excitement in this peaceful
spot, was the visit to the California coast of two piratical
vessels. The first news of the threatened invasion was received
from a sea captain by the name of Henry Gyzelaar, who two
years before had been arrested by Captain De la Guerra, on
the charge of smuggling; but was shortly afterwards re
leased upon proving his innocence. Pending the investiga
tion, he remained at the home of De la Guerra in the

44 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
presidio, where he received such courteous treatment that he
left Santa Barbara with feelings of gratitude towards his
captor. In the fall of 1818, he arrived unexpectedly at
Santa Barbara in his sailing vessel; and announced to De la
Guerra, that he had come direct from the Hawaiian Islands,
where Hippolyte Bouchard, a Frenchman, was fitting out
two vessels with an armament of fifty-four guns and manned
by two hundred and fifty men, with the design of preying
on this coast.
The swiftest courier was at once dispatched to the gov
ernor; and the several presidios and Missions of the Coast
were warned of the danger. Father Ripoll, the superior of
the Santa Barbara Mission, organized an Indian force of
one hundred and eighty men to cooperate with the soldiers
of the presidio; but as the Indians were untrained and as
the few small guns of the presidio, and of the castillo on the
Mesa, would be of little avail in opposing the armament of
the two vessels, orders were issued that the women and
children should be prepared for flight to Santa Ynez; that
all articles of value should be packed ready for shipment;
and that the cattle should be driven inland, as. soon as the
vessels were sighted.
Bouchard first appeared near Monterey, where some
firing occurred between the vessels and a small battery on
the shore; and the governor reported that several of the
attacking party were killed in the engagement. On the fol
lowing day, the pirates landed and carried away some cattle,
and then sailed southward and landed at the rancho Del
Refugio, about thirty miles from Santa Barbara. This
ranch, at that time, was the most interesting and productive
of any ranch in Santa Barbara County, and a force of thirty
mounted soldiers was hastily sent from the pueblo to render
assistance ; but before they could arrive, the ranch was plun-

THE PRESIDIO 45
dered; the buildings were burned; and the cattle which had
not been driven into the mountains were killed. Although
unable to offer any resistance, some of the Mexicans, who
were hiding in ambush, captured three of the pirates.
When news was received at Santa Barbara of the plun
dering of the rancho Del Refugio and of the approach of the
vessels, the greatest excitement prevailed. The women were
hastily sent over the mountain trails to Santa Ynez; valu
ables were concealed; and Captain De la Guerra prepared
to make all possible resistance. Bouchard arrived at Santa
Barbara on the 6th of December; but, to the surprise of
everyone, did not attempt to land. He evidently realized
that nothing could be gained by an attack, as there had been
sufficient opportunity to remove all valuables and drive away
the cattle; and, accordingly, a message was sent on shore
with a flag of truce and an exchange of prisoners proposed.
This offer was finally accepted; and, the exchange being ef
fected, the pirates sailed away.
In 1 82 1, during the command of De la Guerra, Mexico
declared its independence and Alta California became a
territory of the republic. A few years after the independ
ence of Mexico was declared, an amusing incident occurred
at Santa Barbara, which well illustrates how isolated Cali
fornia then was from the rest of the world, as a result of the
difficulties of communication and travel. Three cadets, be
longing to the most prominent families of Santa Barbara,
but with identities disguised and dressed as Spanish officers,
rang the bell of the presidio one morning, and after receiv
ing the salute of the guard, announced that they had just
arrived in a Spanish ship, lying at anchor in the harbor; and
that in the name of their king, who, they claimed, had re
gained sovereignty over Mexico and its territories, they
would take possession of the presidio. In great consterna-

46 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
tion a few loyal Mexicans of the garrison whose latest in
formation received from the Mexican capital was three or
four months old, and who, consequently, were not in a
position to know the truth, sounded the alarm, loaded the
cannon, and prepared for a siege. The situation then began
to look so serious that the cadets confessed their identity and
acknowledged that the Spanish invasion was a joke.
Captain De la Guerra was by birth and in feelings a
Spaniard, whereas, most of the officers, in California were
Mexicans; and this difference in birth occasioned some little
jealousy, were it not for which, he would probably have been
governor, as he was both able and popular. He was born in
Spain, in 1779, of a distinguished family, and when still
very young went to Mexico, where an uncle lived. Shortly
afterwards, he entered the army as a cadet and occupied
several military positions, until, in 1806, he was promoted
to be lieutenant of the Santa Barbara Company. In 18 10
he was chosen habilitado general of both Californias and
sent to Mexico; but he was arrested by Mexican insurgents,
and being unable to reach the City of Mexico, he returned
to Santa Barbara. In 18 15, he was appointed comandante
of the Santa Barbara Company, which office he occupied
much of the time until 1842. Soon after being made coman
dante, he was promoted to be captain, the duties of which
office he discharged with such satisfaction that he was subse
quently offered many other important offices. His wife,
Maria Antonia Carrillo, was a daughter of Comandante
Carrillo, and their fourth son, Pablo De la Guerra, was state
senator and lieutenant governor. During his long life Cap
tain De la Guerra exercised a strong influence in the political
affairs of Alta California. He died in 1858, and was buried
at the Mission.
During part of the years 1828 and 1829, when De la

THE PRESIDIO 47
Guerra was absent in Mexico, Lieutenant Raimundo Pa
checo acted as comandante of Santa Barbara. He was born
in Guanajuato, Mexico, and was acting commander at Mon
terey before being transferred to Santa Barbara. He was an
efficient and brave officer of high character, but was killed
while still young. He left a son, Romualdo, who became
very prominent in California, after its admission to the
Union, and occupied many offices, including those of lieuten
ant governor and acting governor of this state.
De la Guerra was succeeded as comandante by Gumesindo
Flores, a Mexican and brevet lieutenant-colonel, who was
comandante at Monterey from 1839 to 1842, when he was
transferred to Santa Barbara. Flores was actively engaged
in territorial affairs during his short term as comandante at
Santa Barbara, and is frequently regarded as the last coman
dante, although Raimundo Carrillo was acting commander,
during his absence for part of the year 1846. In December
of that year, Fremont crossed the Santa Ynez mountains
and entered Santa Barbara with his battalion of Americans.
The presidio had played a most important and useful part in
the early settlement of this section of the coast, but with the
coming of Fremont its days of glory were over.

THE MISSION
FIRST DECADE
Although the construction of the presidio had continued
uninterruptedly from the beginning, yet four years passed,
before it was so far advanced that the comandante felt that
part of his men could be spared for work on the Mission.
Previous experience had shown the wisdom of locating the
Mission at a moderate distance from the presidio, but it
would have been impossible to have chosen a better or more
beautiful site than the present one on the south bank of
Pedregosa creek at the base of the foothills. On the 4th of
December, 1786, which was the anniversary of the feast of
Santa Barbara, and the founding of the presidio; just ten
years and five months after the American colonists on the
Atlantic Coast had proclaimed their political independence;
the ground was consecrated and the cross was raised. A
few days later Francisco de Lasuen, the presidente of the
Californian Missions, attended by Governor Fages and a
few of the officers and soldiers from the presidio, held
divine services beneath a bower of green branches, which
had been erected on the site. The founding of the Mission
was then practically begun ; but on account of winter storms
the actual construction of the building was delayed until
the following spring.
It was desirable that, as far as possible, the Mission set
tlement should not rely upon the presidio, excepting for pro
tection in case of attack; and that this condition of inde
pendence should be effected without unnecessary delay.
48

THE MISSION 49
Therefore, a large number of the men who had been en
gaged in constructing the building of the presidio gave their
entire attention to the work at the Mission ; and many build
ings were completed during the first year after it was
founded. The first building to be erected occupied the position of
the present structure, to the left of the Mission Church, and
was for the use of the priests. It was built of adobe with
walls, two and a half feet in thickness, resting on stone
foundations. The length was forty-five feet and the depth
was fifteen feet; and adjoining it was a kitchen, eighteen
feet by fifteen feet in dimensions. After completing this
building, the first Mission church was built. It had a
breadth of fifteen feet and depth of forty-five feet, and like
the dwelling was built with adobe walls and stone founda
tions. Its peaked roof was made of rafters, across which
slender poles tied to the rafters by thongs of leather were
thickly laid. The poles were then covered with a layer of
mud, and over this was placed a superstructure of thatch.
The following year, the thatch was replaced by red tiles,
and the church was slightly enlarged.
As soon as the church was finished, a small house was
built for the Indian servants and a large one for the unmar
ried women. A granary and a carpenter shop were then
built; but it was found necessary to temporarily use the
former as a general storehouse, and the latter as a bunk
house for some of the workmen. A building seventy-five
feet in length by seventeen feet in depth, and consisting of
four rooms, was also erected that year and used as a per
manent dwelling house for the lay brothers. A church;
dwellings for the priests, lay brothers, unmarried women,
and servants; a kitchen; a granary; and a carpenter shop;
were the principal results of the work during the first year.

50 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
The plan adopted at the presidio of constructing build
ings of adobe about an open square, was followed at the
Mission; and during the second and third years, the sides of
the quadrangle facing the ocean and the southwest were fin
ished. Shortly afterwards, the remaining two sides were
finished, the northeast side occupying the present site of the
Mission church. The additional buildings consisted prin
cipally of larger apartments for the priests, and better ac
commodations for the unmarried women and girls. It was
also found necessary to add more storehouses; in some of
which were kept the grain and general provisions; and in
others were kept the fuel, the agricultural implements, and
the alforjas and harness of the pack animals. After these
buildings were finished, there was added a large weaving
room where the Indian women were instructed in the art of
weaving. As it was intended that the buildings should be perma
nent, the foundations of all of them were made of stone
cemented with mortar; and the walls of the buildings were
of adobe plastered with mortar, which rendered them less
susceptible to the influence of the weather. The lime used
was from calcareous deposits, found near by; and was burnt
in kilns, some of which may still be found in the canyon
beyond the Mission. Many changes in the buildings, how
ever, were made from time to time to render them more
permanent and convenient. In the second year, the manu
facture of tiles began, and the thatched roofs were recovered
with them. The rafters, originally used, were of sycamore
and poplar, which grew in abundance near at hand; but a
few years later they rotted, and were replaced by rafters of
pine. These were obtained with great difficulty and labor,
as most of them were brought by the Indians from the moun
tains beyond the Santa Ynez river.

THE MISSION 5I
In 1795, the part of the square facing the presidio was
improved by the addition of a corridor, running the whole
length of the front, the tile roof of which was supported by
pillars of brick and mortar. Some attention was then given
to the appearance of the inner court which is now called
the Mission Garden. It was one hundred and forty feet
square, and within its seclusion the padres spent a great part
of their time, during the hours of recreation and light labor.
Three years later, in 1800, they built a corridor which ex
tended around three of its sides. The flooring was paved
with red square tiles; and the roof, which was supported on
columns of brick and mortar, was also covered with tiles.
The Mission buildings now began to assume an appear
ance of importance ; yet all of them were but one story high,
and an adobe church occupied the site of the present stone
church. The work of construction which had begun under
most favorable auspices continued from year to year with
but little interruption; and after the completion of the
dwelling houses, many larger storehouses also were built
for the grain and corn which were harvested in the fertile
valleys to the west of the Mission.
In 1789, there were over three hundred Indians at the
Mission, all of whom were required to regularly attend
church services. Although the number of other buildings
was increased with the increase of population; yet it was
undesirable to have more than one church; and when the
first church, after being enlarged, was found to be too small,
it was torn down and a new one erected. It was located a
short distance from the south corner of the Mission quad
rangle; and a part of the stone foundation, which has been
removed to the level of the ground, may still be seen about
fifty feet to the south of the large stone fountain, near the
terminus of the present car line. In construction this church

52 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
was similar to the first, but was much larger, having a length
of ninety feet and a breadth of fifteen feet.
But even the new church was soon found to be inadequate
to the increasing numbers of converts, and in 1793 the third
church was begun on the site of the present Mission church
and completed in the following year. Although of adobe,
it was far more pretentious than the former one. It was
about twenty-seven feet in width and one hundred and
thirty feet in depth, not including the sacristy, which was
twenty-seven feet by fifteen feet. In front of the church
was a pavement made of flat tiles similar to those in front
of the present church ; the walls were plastered with mortar,
and the roof was covered with tiles. Within, were six
chapels, in each of which were hung large oil paintings,
which had been brought from Spain, and which represented
sacred themes calculated to impress the minds of the be
holders. Could we look back and see the Mission buildings as they
were at the end of the first decade, we would see an inter
esting picture, the result of ten years of hard toil ; although
a picture quite different in completeness from what it was
twenty years later. We would see, surrounding a square,
rows of low buildings all one story in height and with a
depth of nearly twenty feet. Their sides were whitened and
the roofs were covered with red tiles. On the ocean side
was a corridor covered with a roof of tiles; and the light
that streamed in at the outer windows of the rooms, which
were but one tier in depth, passed through the windows on
the other side to the corridor that surrounded the inner
court. At one corner of this square was located the church
which was the predecessor of the present one, although much
smaller in size.
The square was the nucleus of the Mission settlement, and

THE MISSION 53
at the end of the first decade comprised nearly all the build
ings. Beyond its protecting walls were only a few store
houses and outhouses where work was done. But scattered
here and there on the higher bank and even beyond the
creek below, were the rude huts of the Indians who had not
yet been entirely subdued.
The work that had been accomplished during the first
decade ending in December, 1796, might be summarized as
follows :
December 4, 1786: Founding of the Mission of Santa
Barbara. 1787: The first church and first buildings about the
square were built. The number of the Indians at the Mis
sion was one hundred and eighty-three.
1788: Tiles were manufactured; granaries were built;
and the church was enlarged. The number of Indians was
three hundred and seven.
1789: The second church and more granaries were built.
The number of Indians was four hundred and twenty-five.
1790: Two dwelling houses for the priests were built,
and one of the sides of the square, which consisted of a
large house one hundred and seventy-five feet in length by
eighteen feet in depth, and contained a kitchen, dining-room,
assembly hall, and storeroom, was completed. A large
granary was also built. The number of Indians was four
hundred and seven.
1791: A guard house, carpenter shop, and other out
houses were built.
1792: Large corrals were built. The number of Indians
was five hundred.
1793: The third church was commenced.
1794: The third church was finished, and a granary and
weavery were built.

54 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
1795: The work of replacing the rafters of the houses
about the square was begun.
1796: The work on the rafters was finished, and a cor
ridor was built on the side of the square facing the presidio.
The number of Indians at the Mission was now six hundred
and forty-six. SECOND DECADE
During the second decade in the Mission history, begin
ning with the year 1797, the buildings began to assume such
proportions and completeness as characterized their best
days; although the present stone church was not built until
later. The most important events that occurred during this
period were the construction of rows of buildings about the
second or inner square; the construction of large granaries;
the building of the Indian village ; the planting of orchards ;
the building of tanneries; and the construction of the first
reservoir. The growing needs of the settlement required the erection
or more buildings; and in 1797, the second square was
marked out, adjacent to the first square and on its northwest
side. This new square, when finished, was about the same
size as the first square with which it was connected and was
similar to it in appearance. While the new square was used
for the Indians employed in domestic work at the Mission,
the old square was thereafter reserved for the exclusive use
of the padres.
Three granaries, each seventy-five feet in length ; a leather
shop; a blacksmith shop; a house for poultry; and general
storehouses, were built about the sides of the new square.
Although some of the grain was stored in the buildings
about the inner square, yet it became necessary to build other
storehouses; and two years later another granary, twenty feet
in breadth and one hundred and thirty feet in length, was

THE MISSION

55

56 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
built. Such large storehouses became necessary as large
amounts of grain were now raised. During the first year of
its existence, the Mission of Santa Barbara was dependent
upon the neighboring Missions for provisions, but as soon as
the most necessary buildings had been erected the padres be
gan cultivating the land. At first most of the grain, was raised
in the fertile valleys between the Arroyo Pedregosa and the
Arroyo del Burro, but later the Mission had many ranches
extending from the Rincon to Gaviota. The low bottom
lands were used for raising the corn and grain, while the
rolling hills were generally reserved for the flocks and herds.
From San Buenaventura the padres brought horses, mules,
cattle, and sheep; all of which increased rapidly, and in a
few years were numbered by the tens of thousands.
The inherited traits and disposition of the Indian render
him unsuitable for occupations associated with close confine
ment; but in watching and herding cattle and in farming
lands, the natives proved serviceable to the padres. Still in
order to inculcate the ways of civilization, the padres gradu
ally allotted them services of a more trying nature. The
men were employed in making tiles and working in the tan
neries; and the women were taught to weave the wool and
to make blankets and cloth. The latter, which was of a
better quality than most of the cloth produced in Mexico,
was then made into garments for which there was a great
demand; as it was required at the Mission that all of the
Indians should be decently clad, while upon the first arrival
of the padres, they lived almost entirely without any
clothing. There were now about eight hundred Indians living in
scattered huts in the vicinity of the Mission. As they were
beginning to feel the enervating influences of civilization, it
was desirable that they should have comfortable homes; and

THE MISSION

57

1 Thrashing Floor
2 Weavery
3 Granary
4 Inner Court
6 Settling Tank
6 Upper Reservoir
7 Mill
8 Lower Reservoir
9 House for Manufacturing Pottery
10 Cow Shed
11 Vats for Tanning
12 Home of Major-Domo
13 Tannery
14 Soldiers' Quarters
15 Fountain
16 Basin for Washing Clothes
17 Part of Foundation of Second Church
18 Gardener's House
19 Indian Recreation Ground
20 Kilns
21 Aqueduct

NEW MISSION ST.

The Mission Buildings and Grounds as they Appeared
in 1840

58 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
the safety of the padres required that the homes should be
so located that the actions of the Indians could be observed
and restrained in case of an outbreak. It was also necessary
in order to successfully Christianize them and inculcate the
principles of civilization that they should be under the con
stant restraint of the padres. Accordingly, in the year 1798,
a piece of land about three hundred and fifty feet in breadth
by seven hundred feet in length, on the southwest side of
the Mission, and extending across the present Garden street
was set apart for the exclusive use of the Indians, and dur
ing the next eight years, approximately two hundred and
fifty houses were erected within this space.
The principal houses were built in three rows of three
tiers in depth; and as the rows and tiers were separated by
longitudinal and cross streets, they were accordingly nine
separate blocks of houses. The longitudinal streets had a
breadth of sixty feet and the cross streets a breadth of
thirty-five feet. The houses in these rows had a breadth of
about twelve feet and depth of thirty-one feet, each of the
principal houses consisting of two rooms. A solid wall of
adobe, nine feet high and crowned with tiles, surrounded
the village; and against this wall, on the inside, were built
other houses only one room in depth and with a breadth of
about nineteen feet.
In 1798, the first nineteen houses were built. Two years
later thirty-two more were built; and each succeeding year
still more were added, until in 1807, two hundred and fifty-
two had been erected. In 1804, a mud wall nine feet high
was erected on the west side of the village, enclosing nearly
an acre of ground, which was reserved for the use of the In
dians. To-day, not one of the houses remains; but many of
the stone foundations on which the houses rested could have
been seen about a dozen years ago. Many square tiles were

THE MISSION 59
then visible half hidden under the turf; and here and there
were large deposits of shells, which would indicate that
shell fish was a staple article of diet at the Mission.
, Although many of the Indians lived at the Mission, where
they were employed, yet on account of the employment of
others in cultivating the fields and in herding cattle, which
required their being at a considerable distance from it,
several rancherias were established where such Indians could
live. One of the rancherias was on the Hope ranch, where
the buildings of the Indians covered a considerable area,
extending on both sides of Modoc road, a few hundred
yards eastward from its intersection with Hollister Avenue.
This locality was called the Ciehegita, on account of the
swampy land on the south side of the road; and on the
western bank of the little creek which flows through the
cieniga may still be seen some of the adobe ruins of the old
buildings partly overgrown with tunas.
On account of the many Indians who lived at this ranch
eria an asistencia, as a small chapel under the control of a
Mission was called, was built a few rods to the north of
Modoc road. It was of adobe and had a breadth of twenty-
seven feet and a depth of sixty-five feet. The music of a small
organ and the voices of an Indian choir added to the in
terest of the services, which were attended not only by the
natives but also by the early settlers of the valley. Although
the Indians were scattered shortly after the secularization,
yet, in the year i860, the padres obtained a patent to an
acre of land including the chapel and the adjoining grave
yard. Services were held at the chapel until about ten years
later. The tiles were then removed; the walls began to
crumble ; and now nothing remains but a few ruins.
While the padres gave much attention to their grain fields
and cattle ranches, they also cultivated various kinds of

60 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
fruit trees. The apple, pear, apricot, fig, and other trees
were planted in an orchard which covered about three acres
of land and which was situated one hundred yards in front
of the Mission. It was surrounded by a six-sided wall that
was strengthened by heavy buttresses of masonry. Part of
the wall that extended along the northerly side is still in
place, and hidden beneath sage brushes may still be seen the
buttress that stood at the easterly corner. The fruit trees
gradually died or were removed, until fifteen years ago
there were only three standing. Now there is but one,
which is still vigorous, though its bark is moss covered and
its branches are much overgrown.
Another piece of land, of about sixteen acres in extent,
adjoined the Indian village, and was laid out as a vegetable
garden and olive orchard. It was surrounded by a wall
of adobe, nine feet high, and covered with tiles which pro
tected the upper part from rain. The most southerly cor
ner of this wall was located about fifty feet southwest of
Garden street, and one hundred and fifty feet northwest of
Mission street. The only trace of the wall that remains is
part that extended along the southern side. In the southern
quarter of the block bounded by Garden, Padre, Santa Bar
bara and Los Olivos streets, the stone foundations on which
the wall rested appear above the ground and may be traced
for a hundred feet. But though the wall has disappeared,
yet many of the old olive trees still live and cast their pleas
ing shade within the grounds of modern residences. In
1807, a house with a length of sixty feet and a depth of
eighteen feet was built within this orchard, for the head
gardener. It contained several apartments with a corridor
in front, and was located a few rods from the south corner
of the Mission buildings, near the spot where the large
sycamore tree is now growing.

THE MISSION 61
Passing along the Mountain Drive, half a mile beyond
the Mission bridge, one will observe, to the east of the creek,
a triangular shaped piece of land which has been cleared of
the oaks which once grew there. This piece of land was
the principal Mission vineyard and is still cultivated by the
padres. Stone aqueducts pass along two of its sides, and
near the northern corner was an adobe building where the
tools were kept and the vintage was taken. Another vine
yard was located at La Goleta, on the western bank of San
Jose Creek, and nearly a mile north of Hollister Avenue.
It consisted of seven and a half acres, and was surrounded
on three sides by a willow fence and on the remaining side
by the creek.
One of the principal occupations of the Indians not em
ployed in the field was the tanning of hides, and in the year
1802, three vats were built for this purpose. They were
constructed of bricks solidly joined with mortar, so as to
form one solid piece of masonry, and were located two hun
dred and fifty feet directly east of the Mission church,
where they can still be seen. In the same year was built
the tannery, which had a length of sixty feet and a breadth
of eighteen feet; and adjoining it on the northwest side was
built the house of the major domo, which consisted of sev
eral rooms and a corridor. This latter building was close
to the present church, and occupied the site where the home
of Mr. Adair now stands. When the Mission road was
widened, most of this building was torn down, but the ad
jacent tannery and the gardener's home were the last of the
old buildings to be removed and were still standing in the
year 1887.
During the first few years of the Mission's history, water
for domestic and general use had been obtained with dif
ficulty from the creek behind the Mission. But as the creek

62 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
invariably dried up in the summer it was found necessary,
in order to have an ample supply for the two thousand peo
ple who came to dwell at the Mission, and for the tanneries
and gardens, to bring the water from the perennial springs
of the canyon. It was also desirable to build a reservoir
which would hold a quantity of water sufficient for general
purposes during summer, in case of a drought. This task
was undertaken first, and in the year 1806, a large reservoir
of masonry, one hundred and twenty-five feet square and
with a depth of seven feet, was built upon the hillside, about
five hundred feet from the Mission. It is the reservoir
which is now used by the Santa Barbara Water Company
for supplying the City of Santa Barbara.
THE THIRD DECADE AND LATER
In the year 1807, a large stone dam was built a mile and
a half from the Mission, on the west fork of Pedregosa
creek; and another dam was built about three miles from the
Mission, on the east fork. Both of these dams are still in
existence. The one on the left fork was used both to store
the water and also to direct it to the aqueduct; but it is now
so overgrown with brush as to be hardly noticeable. The
one on the east fork was used solely as a weir for directing
the water to the aqueduct. It is filled to the upper level
with gravel; but it stands as firmly to-day as when con
structed a century ago.
As it was found impracticable to make clay pipe for con
ducting the waters from the dams to the reservoir, pieces
of stone were cut and chiseled so that when in place and
cemented with mortar they formed aqueducts with conduits
ten inches in depth and of the same breadth. These aque
ducts were built so as to follow the contours of the hills and
canyons from the dams to the reservoirs and so well were

THE MISSION 63
they constructed that after a hundred years they remain
in excellent condition, excepting where they have been de
stroyed by man.
Subsequently a second reservoir of octagonal shape was
built higher on the hill, and between it and the lower reser
voir was the mill. Another aqueduct was then constructed
leading from the dam, on the west fork of Mission creek, to
the hill immediately north of the reservoir, whence it de
scended the steep slope of the hill to the upper reservoir.
The latter shows signs of decay, yet displays the effective
work of the early masons. A flight of stone steps leads
down to the bottom where the debris of nearly a century has
collected, and where a tree of fair proportions has taken
root and grown several feet above the top of the reservoir.
At the southern end is an opening, which was closed by a
heavy oaken door when the water was not required to turn
the water-wheel of the mill. The grooves where the door
rose and descended may be plainly seen, and also the small
holes in the upper part of the wall, where beams were
erected, from which were suspended the pulley and the rope
used in raising the door. The mill is now in ruins. The
threshing floor and space where the large water-wheel
turned are still discernible; but the water wheel and the
discs that ground the corn and wheat are gone.
One can not view the ruins without pictures of other days
coming before the mind: the fertile valleys, turned golden
brown with ripening grain ; the Indians plodding homeward
with the harvests; the water scurrying down the hill and
splashing into the reservoir below; the creaking, groaning
water-wheel ; the slowly grinding discs ; the Indians carrying
the newly made flour to the storehouses; and watching and
directing all, the brown-robed friars.
The water that was spent after passing through the mill

64 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
flowed into the larger reservoir, which also received water
from the lower stone aqueduct. This larger reservoir was
used to store water for irrigation ; and from its south corner
an aqueduct followed the general course of the road to the
church, whence crossing the road it passed along the wall of
masonry which is still standing at the rear of the home of
Mr. Adair, as far as the tannery. From this point the water
was conducted to the small orchard for irrigation; but the
main branch of the aqueduct passed through the large or
chard, and a few years ago traces of it appeared where it
crossed Garden street two hundred feet northwest of Padre
street. A short distance west of the upper reservoir is a small
building of masonry that has been erroneously spoken of as
a bathhouse. This building contained a settling tank where
the water used for domestic purposes at the Mission was
clarified. From this building the water was conducted to
the rear of the Mission buildings in a cement pipe about
four inches in diameter, which crossed along the top of a
solid wall of masonry, part of which may still be seen,
close to the present Mission bridge. At one time a beautiful
arch in this wall of masonry spanned the road that crosses
the bridge; but about the year 1880, as the opening in the
wall was not sufficiently large to conveniently allow the pas
sage of some of the farm wagons that constantly passed that
way, the arch and part of the wall were removed.
In the wall, separating the cemetery from the Mission
road, was a gateway surmounted by a small stone cross.
This entrance was closed with masonry many years ago, al
though the cross indicates where it was located. A short
distance from this former entrance and at a point where the
aqueduct crosses the road, stands a living monument to kind-
hearted Father O'Keefe, one of the most beloved of the

THE MISSION 65
Mission padres. In years gone by, he had observed some
Indian women coming regularly to that spot and washing
their clothes in the water that they took from the aqueduct.
To protect them from the heat of the sun he planted four
sycamores, two of which died. The Indians have long
since disappeared, yet two tall sycamores remain, and in
their grateful shade many a weary person has sat and rested
on the seat that reaches from trunk to trunk.
In the center of the inner court is a fountain, constructed
of stone and covered with cement. It was built in the year
1808, and is plain in appearance, being designed more for
utility than for ornamentation. In front of the entrance to
the cloister is a much larger fountain that was built at a
later date. It is of octagonal shape and is the handsomest
of any of the Mission fountains, though it has become some
what defaced. The top of the standard which rises from
the center represents a pomegranate, and beneath it is a
bowl, the sides of which were delicately carved ; but the lime
which in the course of nearly a century has been deposited
from the waters which flowed over them has largely effaced
the beauty of the original outlines.
From this fountain the water was formerly conducted into
a large basin of masonry that is located immediately in front
of it. The stone head pieces, through which the water
entered and issued from the basin, were designed to repre
sent the heads of bears; but they have been so worn and
broken that now they present but slight resemblance to those
animals. The basin has a length of sixty-five feet and a
breadth of twenty-three feet. Regularly once a week the
women from the Indian village gathered there to wash their
soiled clothes, which they scrubbed on the sloping sides of
the basin where they knelt.
A short distance to the east of the lower stone reservoir,

66 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
are the remains of a large building which was erected in the
year 1808 for the manufacture of clay pipe and pottery.
The former was used for conducting the water beneath the
ground in places where an open aqueduct would be unde
sirable, and the latter was used for domestic purposes before
the introduction of china ware. In the rooms of the Society
of Natural History is a piece of pottery, made at the Mis
sion and formerly owned by the writer, which bears much
resemblance to the water pitchers used in the Orient. Very
few pieces, however, of the Mission pottery now remain.
In the following year, an important improvement was be
gun in the Mission buildings, although it was not com
pleted until 18 1 1. Prior to 1809, the building adjoining
the present church and on the ocean side of the square, con
tained the dwelling rooms of the priests and consisted of a
row of rooms but a single tier in depth, in front of which
was a corridor. When, however, on account of the increas
ing number of padres, more rooms were required, the cor
ridor was removed and another tier of rooms was added,
adjoining and in front of the first constructed tier. The
front of the building was then finished with the arched
corridor that exists to-day, the arches and pillars being con
structed of solid masonry and the flooring paved with square
tiles. The entrances to the newly constructed tier of rooms
on the front were from the corridor; and the entrances to
the tier of rooms, to the rear, were from the inner court.
The building was then covered with a flat cement roof, but
later, when the growing needs of the Mission required still
more rooms, a second story was constructed above the pres
ent cloister.
A picture of the Mission taken in 1865, shows that pre
vious to that time a second story had been added to only
one-half of this part of the quadrangle ; but subsequently

Former Arch in Mission Wall
From an Etching by Henry Chapman Ford

THE MISSION

11 1 ^ |H i

68 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
the roof was raised along the whole length of this front, and
more rooms were added.
At this period, traveling through Alta California was
over trails, some of which were broad and well worn, but
few of which attained to the dignity of roads, even after
the introduction of the cumbersome ox-carts. Extending,
however, along the coast from Mission to Mission was one
well-traveled highway known as the Camino Real, or Royal
Highway, which connected at San Diego with the system of
Mission highways of Baja California, known as the Gulfo
Camino, Sierra Camino, and Pacifico Camino. All of these
highways were constructed by the padres as a means of com
munication between the Missions, and over them a mounted
mail carrier bore the dispatches from the City of Mexico.
The Camino Real was the road over which Junipero Serra
regularly traveled when he visited the Missions which he
had established in Alta California ; and in later years it be
came the principal highway along the coast.
It would be impossible now to locate with absolute ac
curacy the course followed by the Camino Real throughout
all its length. In fact, for short stretches, the route traveled
must have varied slightly with the seasons. It was not con
cerned with government section lines nor neighbors' fences,
but followed the course most convenient to travel from Mis
sion to Mission. In the immediate vicinity of Santa Bar
bara, it is not probable that it followed the beach westward
from the eastern limits of the city; as in those days, there
would have been much difficulty, during many months of the
year, in reaching either Mission or presidio from that direc
tion. The plat which accompanies the patent of the Pueblo
of Santa Barbara, from the United States, in i860, repre
sents Mission creek emptying into the estero, which was

THE MISSION 69
then part of the lagoort. During heavy rains the creek
forced its way to the ocean, and was difficult to cross; but
after the heavy rains were over, the drifting beach sands
barred the passage of the creek to the ocean, and the waters
filled the estero. Later in the year when the creek ceased
to flow in its lower stretches, the flowing springs of the De
la Guerra Gardens fed the lake. Further eastward the old
racetrack, recently bought by the city, was under water
during winter, and the overflow from it, as well as the wa
ters from Sycamore canyon, forced channels across the
beach, where the yielding sands would make crossing dan
gerous. The most direct route from Montecito to the Mission
would have been to the north of the old racetrack and skirt
ing the foothills ; and during part of the year it would have
been the only practical route. From a point near where
Canon Perdido street reaches the base of the foothills, a
branch road probably passed around the head of the lagoon
to the presidio.
Westward from the Mission, the Camino Real undoubt
edly followed the general direction of Hollister Avenue ; yet
for the first three or four miles it probably turned a little
more to the south, and passed along the low rolling hills, so
as to avoid the little lagoons and lands which in winter are
heavy and soggy. The rancheria of Hope ranch as well as
the chapel, which were south of Hollister Avenue, would
also have diverted the road in that direction.
It was never a paved highway like some of the Caminos
Reales of Mexico. It was little more than a broad trail,
often leading between thickets of shrubs and under branches
of oaks, or on the high banks bordering the ocean ; yet it is
of greater historic interest, to-day, than any other road in
California.

70 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
The severe earthquakes which occurred at Santa Barbara
in December, 1812, and during the following three months,
did great damage to many of the Mission buildings ; and the
walls of the adobe church were injured to such an extent,
that it was decided to remove the church and build a new
one. A couple of years were required to repair the build
ings which had been injured and to remove the ruins of the
old church; but in the year 18 15, the foundation of the
present one was laid. All of the other buildings of the Mis
sion were of adobe ; but in order to construct a building that
would resist the force of future earthquakes, the walls were
built of cubes of sandstone, firmly cemented with mortar.
They had a thickness of six feet, and were supported by
heavy buttresses, so that the church is the most strongly
built of any Mission in California. On account of the
length of the rafters, it was found impractical to bring them
from the San Rafael Mountains, where the Indians had cut
most of the timbers previously used in the Mission build
ings ; and a vessel was accordingly sent to Santa Cruz Island
to obtain them. The roof was covered with tiles ; and crude
bitumen was melted and laid for a flooring.
Exclusive of the buttresses but including the walls, the
extreme length of the church is one hundred and seventy-
eight feet and the width is thirty-nine feet. The length of
the nave exclusive of the choir is one hundred and thirty-
eight feet, and the breadth between the walls is twenty-seven
feet. Of the six chapels, the two nearest the entrance are
built in the solid walls that are of double thickness at these
points. Within a recess in the pediment above the entrance
is a carved figure of painted stone representing Santa Bar
bara; and resting above the cornice at each end are two
other statues of stone, which with a third, that has been

THE MISSION

7i

IE

Ground Plan of the Mission Church in 1890

72 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
removed, represented the cardinal virtues, Faith, Hope, and
Charity. The tower, on the left, that is approached by winding
stone steps from the corridor has always been the principal
belfry, and at one time contained six bells, all of which were
of brass. The two largest bells weigh eight hundred and
twenty-five and five hundred and seventy pounds, respec
tively, and were cast in the year 1808, by Manuel Vargas.
They are silent now, but their ragged edges speak eloquently
of the past. Some of the smaller bells are older, and on one
that bears the inscription " AVE, MARIA, PURISSIMA,
SANTA BARBARA," is the date, 1804, and on another is
the date 1797.
At the right of the high altar is a tomb where are buried
the remains of the first bishop of California, Fr. Francisco
Garcia Diego y Moreno. In the basement beneath the nave
of the church are the remains of Governor Figueroa, who
died in 1833; and here also are buried the remains of Don
Jose De la Guerra and his son, Don Pablo De la Guerra.
In the Mission churchyard are buried a number of persons
prominent in the early life of Santa Barbara; while in
trenches, between parallel rows of masonry, the tops of
which appear at the surface of the ground, are the remains
of some five thousand Indians who belonged to the Mission
settlement. In the early days, the Indians were required to regularly
attend the services held in the Mission church. There was
an Indian choir and also an Indian orchestra of thirty musi
cians who played violins, flutes, drums, and trumpets. This
orchestra was instructed by Father Duran, who was an en
thusiastic conductor; and, not infrequently, the services were
enlivened by strains of dance music, interpolated with the
more solemn anthems.

THE MISSION 73
In the Mission life, few exciting or unusual events oc
curred, but in 1824, a concerted outbreak among the Indians
of several of the Missions of the Coast caused great excite
ment among the Indians resident at Santa Barbara. The
conspiracy originated among the Indians of the Missions of
La Purissima and Santa Ynez, and word was conveyed from
them to the Indians of the Missions of San Luis Obispo,
Santa Barbara, San Buenaventura, and San Fernando, to
prepare for an uprising on the 2 2d of February. The
plans were prepared with such secrecy that the padres had
no intimation of the approaching danger; and Jose De la
Guerra seems to have been the only one of the class called
gente de razon, or people of enlightenment, who had any
suspicion of the uprising. An Indian woman, employed in
his family, intimated to him that she had heard of the
threatened attack, but for so many years had the Indians
submitted unresistingly that he placed little confidence in
her story.
On the evening of the 21st, the Indians of the Santa Ynez
Mission made an attack on the padres residing there, and on
the following day several of the leaders of the Santa Bar
bara Indians excited the others, by rehearsing grievances of
the past. Watching their opportunity, they seized some guns,
and with these and with their bows and arrows wounded
two of the soldiers who were stationed as a guard at the
Mission. Captain De la Guerra was summoned, and he at
once marched from the presidio with a force of soldiers. In
the fight which occurred the Indians had the advantage of
being protected by the walls of the buildings and wounded
four of the soldiers; but two of their own number were
killed and three wounded. The Indians then retreated, with
such property as they could carry, to the foothills of the
mountains, and after a few days crossed to the lower part

74 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
of the San Joaquin Valley. They were pursued thither by
the soldiers; and one or two engagements occurred, in which
several were killed or wounded, on each side; finally, how
ever, a full pardon being promised the Indians, they re
turned peacefully to the Mission.
The Mission church of Santa Barbara is, to-day, the best
preserved and handsomest of all the Missions of California.
In the presence of the colossal cathedrals of the world, the
crowning works of master hands, the beholder stands in
awestricken admiration. But there is nothing in either the
external or internal structure of the Mission to evoke such
feelings of wondering admiration; yet as the eye of the
visitor passes over the church, unpretentious in its simplicity;
looks out into the churchyard and over the hills with their
crumbling ruins; and the mind recalls the many vicissitudes
of the first years of the Mission life; there is awakened a
feeling of warm attachment to this old church and to all
that has been associated with it, such as few of the more
costly temples can inspire.

THE SECULARIZATION
The secularization of the Missions presents one of the
saddest pictures in the history of the state of California.
For half a century, the padres had toiled with unremitting
zeal to Christianize the Indians and teach them the arts of
civilization. Under their influence the hills had been made
to teem with cattle, the valleys to produce harvests, and the
vineyards and orchards to bear their fruits. In every large
valley of the southern coast rose the tower of a Mission
church, and near at hand were the Indian dwellings, the
shops of native artisans, and the storehouses. Trade had
become established between these Mission outposts and the
cities of the east. Settlers came to dwell among them, and
the birth of a new nation on the shores of the Pacific was
made known to the world. Yet their system, under which
the Indians were reduced to a condition of dependence and
large areas of land were controlled by the church, was un
favorable to the political and commercial progress of the
country and was consequently overthrown. The transition
from the glory of the Missions to their ruin was sudden and
complete. The Mission bells ceased to toll; the walls
crumbled to decay; and the Indians, half-clothed and half-
fed, returned again to their native state and soon disap
peared. Yet the work of the padres should not be under
valued as they were the pioneer settlers of the coast.
Nearly a century before the founding of the first Mission
in Alta California, Father Juan Maria Salvatierra under
took to found the Missions of Baja California. To accom
plish this purpose, those piously inclined of Spain and
75

76 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
Mexico were induced to grant or bequeath sums of money
to be used for the conversion of the benighted natives of the
two Californias. Some of those gifts and bequests amounted
to many thousand pesos, and in the course of a few years
the aggregate became very large and was known as the
Fundo Piedoso de California or the Pious Fund. This
fund was carefully invested by the Jesuits and rapidly in
creased in value. When the Jesuits were expelled from the
Missions and the Franciscans given control, the latter en
joyed every privilege exercised by the former, in using the
income derived from the Pious Fund. With this income
the Missions of Alta California were built; and from the
cattle furnished by the Missions of Baja California the vast
herds belonging to the Missions of Alta California sprung.
It would, therefore, appear that the padres had not only a
prescriptive right to the lands they had occupied and cul
tivated, but also a legal right to the herds of cattle and the
buildings. But the Mexican government regarded the Mission rights
very differendy and claimed that the best interests of the
Indians demanded that they be allowed full liberty and given
land on which to support themselves. Accordingly, in 1833,
the Mexican Congress decreed that the Missions should be
converted into parishes and the padres should be superseded
by secular curates. It was also decreed that all expenses
connected with the secularization of the Missions should be
paid for out of the Pious Fund. The territorial deputation
was in harmony with the ideas of the Mexican Congress,
and on July 31,1834, they adopted the plan which, when
carried out, resulted in complete secularization of the Mis
sions, although several years elapsed before their ruin was
accomplished. The salient features of the plan were that the mission-

THE SECULARIZATION 77
aries, until replaced by the new curates, should be limited in
their duties to administering to the spiritual needs of the
Indians, while the secular possessions should be under the
care of the government; that the missionary property should
be limited to the church and a building for the residence of
the curate ; and that the other buildings and property should
be converted to such ends as the govenment might desire.
Part of the lands were set aside as districts, which were
divided into sections to be allotted among the Indians. The
lands, however, were not mortgageable, nor could perfect
title be obtained, until after several years of occupation.
One-half of the grain, cattle, and implements, belonging to
the Missions, was to be divided among the Indians.
Major-domos were chosen to take charge of the Mission
property, and commissioners were appointed to make inven
tories. To a large extent, the plan was carried out as it had
been projected, but in most instances it proved an utter
failure. As soon as at liberty, most of the Indians refused
to work and many of them took to the mountains; others
who attempted to cultivate the ground were so harassed by
the whites that their lot became unendurable. The restraint
to which they had been subjected for a couple of generations
had enervated as well as elevated, and in a few years they
almost entirely disappeared. At last, realizing their mis
take, the government made several ineffectual efforts to re
gain the confidence of the Indians, but it was too late. Not
only was the plan a failure in its design of elevating them by
emancipation, but it resulted in the most wanton waste and
fraud. The duties of the Commissioners, Major-domos,
and other officers, connected with the secularization, ad
mitted of numerous opportunities for peculations. Nearly
all of the Missions were soon desolate and in ruins; but as
the large majority of the people of influence in California

78 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
were interested in the change, there was no one to interfere
but the missionaries, whose voices were raised in vain.
Owing to the many disturbances of this period, regular
statistics were not kept at the Santa Barbara Mission later
than 1834, and many interesting events doubtless passed
unrecorded. The Mission of Santa Barbara probably
suffered less than any other; for while it lost most of its
secular possessions, and many of its buildings were allowed
to fall to decay, yet the church and the cloisters were well
preserved. One reason for this was the fact that the padres
were natives of Mexico and not Spaniards ; and, consequently
one of the principal grounds of hostility was removed. But
still another reason existed. In 1839, a new diocese was
created of Alta California, and Father Francisco Garcia
Diego y Moreno was appointed bishop. He chose Santa
Barbara as his episcopal see, and as he made his home at the
Mission he undoubtedly had great influence in its being
well preserved.
It had been decreed by the Mexican Congress of 1836
that the Pious Fund, which at that time amounted to about
two millions of dollars, and had practically been confiscated
by the government, should be entrusted to the bishop, when
appointed. Relying upon this resource, the bishop at once
planned to found a theological school and monastery at
Santa Barbara, and also to build a cathedral. Work had
already progressed to the extent of collecting rock for the
foundations of the different buildings, when news was re
ceived that Santa Ana, who was then in power, had declined
to recognize the bishop's right to the fund, and that most
of it had been converted into money and paid into the public
treasury. The work was accordingly abandoned, and Santa
Barbara lost a Catholic cathedral.
An effort was finally made, in 1843, f°r tne restoration of

THE SECULARIZATION 79
the old Mission system, but the change came too late. The
conditions, under which the Mission system could exist, had
been swept away, and nothing could restore it. Nearly all
the Mission properties were in debt, and their incomes had
ceased to be sufficient for the maintenance of both public
worship and the care of the Indians. The latter were in a
most deplorable condition and, in many cases, were actually
suffering the pangs of hunger. Finally on October 28, 1845,
a proclamation was made for the sale of nine of the Mis
sions; and others, including Santa Barbara, were leased for
a term of years. The property of the Santa Barbara
Mission was leased to Nicholas A. Den and Daniel Hill
for the yearly rental of $1200.00, the part leased consisting
of all the storerooms and other buildings of the Mission,
with the exception of the church and the cloister. The San
Marcos rancho and some fifteen hundred head of horses and
cattle and seventeen hundred head of sheep, belonging to
the Mission property, were leased also. The bishop, at
last, realized the impossibility of checking the work of ruin
that was taking place about him; and his death was prob
ably hastened by his disappointment. In 1846, he died,
and was buried in the Mission church at Santa Barbara.
The Missions of California played a most important part
in the early development of the state, as each formed a
nucleus, about which in time sprang up towns and cities.
But the Mexican independence which resulted at the end of
the war with Spain, in 1821, and the liberty of action and
freedom of thought which followed, sounded the death knell
to their existence. It was impossible that their system of
land tenure could obtain with the growth of population under
a republican government. Although it may be said of the
secularization that it was necessary that it should be done,
yet it was not done wisely. There were undoubtedly some

80 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
abuses and some mistreatment of the Indians, as charged;
nevertheless, abuses have been incidental to all governments,
and no one will question the fact that among the padres of
the Californian Missions were some of the most ingenuous,
self-sacrificing men California has known. With no thought
of personal gain, but devoted to a sacred cause, they endured
every hardship, braved every danger. Though the names
of most of them are forgotten, yet the name of one, now
sleeping beneath the Mission at Monterey, should be re
membered for centuries to come; for ecclesiastical history
presents the names of few men who can be regarded as
more useful, more noble, than Junipero Serra.
Though the bells of the Mission towers be silent ; though
the walls crack and crumble ; all that remains should be held
sacred; for the Missions are the oldest antiquities of Cali
fornia; they represent the efforts of manly character and
noble purposes; and are dedicated to the Christian religion.

THE PUEBLO
The settlement of the Spaniards .on this coast resulted
in four distinct lines of growth — the presidio, the Mission,
the pueblo, and the rancho.
The pueblo was the outgrowth of the presidio, and virtu
ally began to exist soon after the latter was established;
although the first town council was not elected until Decem
ber, 1826. The soldiers who married and wished to remain
at Santa Barbara, after their terms of service had expired,
were allotted lands without the presidio walls for homes.
Their descendants also built homes in the pueblo; and as
years passed, others from Mexico, Spain, and France settled
here. To the names of the comandantes might be added
those of Cota, Gutierrez, Ruiz, Arrellanes, Lataillade, Jan-
sens, Aguirre ; as the names of a few who were well known
in the early days of Santa Barbara. There were also a
number of Anglo-Saxons, who came during the early part
of the last century, and who subsequently became prominent
in the life of the pueblo and the County of Santa Barbara.
One of the earliest of these arrivals was Daniel Hill, a
native of Massachusetts, who came to the coast in the year
1822, as captain of a trading vessel en route to the Hawaiian
Islands. In the following year he settled at Santa Barbara,
and six years later he was naturalized. After being engaged
as a merchant for several years, and occasionally acting as
carpenter and mason, he turned his attention to ranching
and acquired extensive lands about Goleta.
Alpheus B. Thompson, who was interested in a fleet of
81

82 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
ships engaged in collecting and transporting hides to
Boston, also settled at Santa Barbara, about the same time;
and marrying the daughter of Comandante Carrillo, became
identified with the social and business life of the pueblo.
In 1829, Alfred Robinson arrived from Boston on the
BrookUne, which was one of the vessels engaged in the
Pacific coast trade. He was agent of the owners of the
fleet for the purchase of hides, and for twelve years resided
on this coast. Part of this time he spent in Santa Barbara,
where he met and married Anna Maria Antonia, the beau
tiful daughter of Captain De la Guerra. At the time of her
marriage, she was but fourteen years of age; and the wed
ding was celebrated with festivities which lasted three or
four days, and in which all the residents of the pueblo par
ticipated. In his book, entitled " Life in California," Mr.
Robinson has left us a most interesting description of life
on this coast at the period when he lived here.
Formerly large numbers of otter existed in the waters of
Santa Barbara Channel, and as their skins were of a finer
quality than the skins of those found elsewhere on the coast,
they were hunted persistently by both Russians and Ameri
cans. Among the latter was Louis F. Burton, who arrived in
1 83 1 and subsequently married Antonia Carrillo. He was
a well-known hunter and trapper, and for years lived in a
picturesque adobe overlooking the ocean from the crest of
Burton's Mound, which was named after him.
George Nidever, a native of Tennessee, was another
hunter and trapper who arrived in the early thirties, after
crossing the Rocky Mountains with the Walker party. He
was at one time a member of the famous little band called
Graham's Riflemen, which took part in some of the early
Californian revolutions. Like many of the pioneers, he was
a remarkable rifle shot, and is reported to have killed some

THE PUEBLO 83
two hundred grizzlies and on one occasion to have shot
three rifle bullets into a piece of paper that was one inch
square and was placed at a distance of sixty yards. In 1853,
he rescued the old Indian woman from San Nicholas Island.
His home for many years was on the Nidever property that
was located near the eastern end of the present ocean
boulevard. Nicholas A. Den, an Irish physician, arrived in 1836, and
shortly afterwards married the daughter of Daniel Hill.
Although highly educated and accustomed to the life of
cities, yet the ranch life appealed to him so strongly that he
settled here permanently, and before his death had become
the owner of the Dos Pueblos, Canada del Corral, San
Marcos and Tequespis ranches, as well as ten thousand head
of cattle.
Benjamin Fox, an English sailor, settled here in 1837,
and at first engaged in the mercantile business, but later
turned his attention to stock raising and became the owner
of the Tinacquaic ranch.
There were but few distinct occupations in which the set
tlers engaged. As the country was well suited to ranching,
many of the Mexicans and most of the Americans, although
living in the pueblo where they could enjoy its social life,
owned large tracts of land on which they raised cattle for
the hides and tallow. A few Americans, who lived by hunt
ing and trapping, and had reached this part of the coast
after years spent on the plains and in the Rocky Mountains,
found congenial employment in hunting the otter. A
number of Mexicans acquired small patches of fertile land,
where the canyons opened into the valleys, and building
ditches to irrigate their lands, raised vegetables and fruits
which they sold. Two or three Americans, agents for the
coasting vessels, were employed in purchasing and shipping

84 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
hides and tallow. Other residents were merchants; but
there was no business center in the pueblo1, nor were there
any business blocks. The store of the merchant was con
nected with his home, and was simply a large outside room
where groceries and drygoods, as well as tobacco and liquors,
could be bought or exchanged for other commodities. Al
though the growth of the pueblo was slow, yet, in 1830, it
had a population of approximately four hundred, of whom
about ten were foreigners; and consisted of sixty houses
which were built without any regard to streets, as the first
owners of the land chose lots where it seemed most con
venient. It is uncertain when the first formal grant of pueblo land
was made to any resident, but the earliest deed recorded was
one dated the 14th of February, 1835; and was a grant to
Octaviano Gutierrez of a piece of land to be used as a
homestead, and consisting of one hundred varas square,
located between the presidio and the Mission.
All the houses were of adobe with a foundation of stone;
and nearly all had tiled roofs. As timber was scarce many
of the houses had no other flooring than the ground; a few
of them had a flooring of asphalt; and the first house with
a wooden flooring is said to have been one built by Daniel
Hill about the year 1824. Most of the houses were of
simple structure, like the small adobes still remaining in
parts of the city; but there were a few which deserve special
mention. Probably the first house of any consequence which was
built without the walls of the presidio, is one known as the
Arrellanes house; and which is located three or four rods
from where the most easterly corner of the presidio wall
formerly stood. Part of it was built by a Spaniard about
the year 1795, and additions have been made from time

THE PUEBLO

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Pueblo of Santa Barbara

1, Teodoro Arrellanes. 2, Gumesindo Flores. 3, Church. 4, Jose
Aguirre. 5, Raimundo Carrillo. 6, Louis Burton 7, Caspar Orena. 8,
Jose De la Guerra. 9, Alpheus Thompson (St. Charles Hotel). 10, Carlos
Carrillo.

86 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
to time to meet the requirements of the different owners.
As the walls of these additions have different thicknesses,
some being about three feet thick, and others about a foot
less, it can readily be determined what rooms were added at
different periods. For many years one part of the building
was used as a residence, and another part was used as a
store for the sale of general merchandise and liquors. Fi
nally the ownership passed to Teodoro Arrellanes, whose
family and descendants have lived there for over two
generations. The only two-story house in the pueblo, excepting the
small structure erected at the rear of the De la Guerra
house, was the one now known as the former St. Charles
hotel which is located on State street near De la Guerra.
It was built about the year 1835 by Alpheus B. Thompson,
who lived there for many years, while engaged in the ship
ping business. Several changes have been made in the ar
rangement of its rooms, and its external appearance is some
what different now from what it was formerly; as then the
approach to the upper story was by an open staircase, con
structed on the southeast side of the building.
Almost opposite the public library on Carrillo street, was
the Aguirre house, which was considered by many the most
artistically attractive home in old Santa Barbara. It was
built in the year 1841, by Jose Antonio Aguirre, a native of
San Sebastian, Spain, who, after visiting Mexico and South
America, became a merchant and trader on this coast. In
his own vessel he brought some of the material with which
it was embellished; and skilled artisans were employed in
the construction. It was a large one-story house with a
score of apartments, and was built of adobe with foundations
that elevated it a few feet above the ground. The square
front was relieved by a veranda, the roof of which was

THE PUEBLO 87
supported by carved columns. The parlor was a large and
handsomely finished room, with floors of polished hard
wood and with walls daintily frescoed. Luxurious sofas,
chairs of mahogany, and paintings of rare workmanship,
furnished and adorned the rooms. But the most unique
feature, built in imitation of the architecture of Spain and
Mexico, was the inner court, or patio, that was paved with
stone and surrounded by a corridor with a wooden floor.
Handsomely hand-carved posts supported the roof of the
corridor, which was so constructed as to leave a circular
opening above the stone pavement. In the retirement of
this inner court, open to the air, the family could live during
the warm months of the year; and to further add to their
privacy a stone wall was built surrounding the orchard and
flower gardens. La Casa de Aguirre, as it was known, was
a favorite place for holding fiestas, in the olden days, and it
was one of the most popular homes in Santa Barbara.
The Comandante's house, in the presidio, was necessarily
a very important house when California was under the
Spanish and Mexican rule, as here the official receptions
were held. Unfortunately the laying out of Santa Barbara
street necessitated the removal of part of the house, and its
attractiveness has still further been lessened by the erection
of a small house in front of it; but formerly it was the most
noticeable structure in the presidio, with the exception of
the church. Gumesindo Flores was the last comandante to
live there, and his descendants still make it their home.
There were other interesting houses in the pueblo, but
those who came here in the early days relate that the one
of most imposing appearance was the De la Guerra house,
the construction of which was begun about the year 18 19
and finished in 1826. Originally, it was slighdy different
from what it is now. Then the corridors extended about

88 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
the three sides of the patio for the full length of each side,
and heavy columns, each of which were made of flat tiles,
twenty inches square and placed one upon another, supported
a tiled roof. Subsequently, additional dwelling rooms were
constructed at each end of the corridor; and the red tiled
columns were unfortunately broken by an earthquake and
replaced by wooden posts. The apartments of the house
were spacious, and many of the furnishings were brought
from Spain. In the garden, to the rear, was a small two-
story building made of adobe, the upper story of which was
once used as the library. Adjoining the passage that leads
from the front corridor to the garden was the bodega, where
the lord of two hundred thousand acres kept the choice
wines he poured to the health of his countless guests. As
the residence of Captain De la Guerre, comandante of the
presidio and one of the most influential citizens in Alta
California, and of his son Don Pablo, state senator and
lieutenant governor of the state, it acquired almost official
prominence. It was also known as the home of Senora
Noriega, whose goodness was proverbial; and the beauty
and grace of its women, who were famed throughout Cali
fornia, made it the center of the social life of the pueblo.
Seventy-five years ago, the pueblo of Santa Barbara was
one of a small group of settlements, widely scattered along
the coast of southern California. It was nearly two thousand
miles distant from any city of importance, and was separated
from the mother country by a great continent and ocean
that then took many months to cross. A large percentage
of its inhabitants were descendants of Spaniards who had
intermarried with the natives of Mexico and were deficient
in higher education; yet there existed in the social life of the
people a refinement which, under the circumstances, is almost
surprising and which is one of the highest tributes to the in-

House of the Comandante

THE PUEBLO 89
fluence of the Mission padres and the few influential families
who created and maintained the standard. In the homes of
the best people of this little pueblo existed the dignity, ele
gance, refinement, and charm of people reared in the capitals
of the old world. Although the environment was not such
as would stimulate intellectual effort, yet the people lived
in an atmosphere of gentleness and grace, which affected
all classes.
Both men and women were fond of dress; and laces,
silks, kid gloves, silk stockings, and dainty slippers were
worn on proper occasions. An American who saw Santa
Barbara about 1840 referred to the dress of a daughter of
Don Jose de la Guerra, on the occasion of her visiting a
ship, which had arrived in the habor, and stated that " she
wore pink silk stockings and the daintiest little red slippers
with silver buckles."
Mr. Robinson has left the following description of the
dress of the people of Santa Barbara at the time he lived
here. "The dress worn by the middling class of females is a
chemise with short embroidered sleeves, richly trimmed with
lace, a muslin petticoat, flounced with scarlet and secured
at the waist by a silk band of the same color, shoes of velvet
or blue satin, a cotton reboso, or scarf, pearl necklace and
ear-rings, with the hair falling in broad plaits down the
back. Others of the higher class dress in the English
style, and instead of the reboso substitute a rich and costly
shawl of silk or satin. There is something graceful in the
management of the reboso that the natives alone can im
part, and the perfect nonchalance with which it is thrown
about them and worn adds greatly to its beauty.
" Very few of the men have adopted our mode of dress,
the greater part adhering to the ancient costume of the past

90 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
century. Short clothes, and jacket trimmed with scarlet, a
sash about the waist, botas of ornamental and embroidered
deerskin, secured by colored garters, embroidered shoes, the
hair long, braided and fastened behind with ribbons, a black
silk handkerchief around the head, surmounted by an oval
and broad-brimmed hat, is the dress universally worn by the
men of California."
But if they loved fine clothes, which certainly became
them, their hearts were kind and simple. " My house is
your own, senor," was the greeting to the stranger who
knocked unexpectedly at the door. From the City of Mexico
to the pueblo of San Francisco a stranger could travel with
out a peso in his pocket. Wherever he knocked at night,
the door was opened. The best room in the house, a place
at the fireside and the table, and in the morning a fresh
horse for his journey, if his own was jaded — all were his,
and to offer recompense was to offer insult. It is not sur
prising that such simple-minded, big-hearted people soon
parted with their lands.
There were no finer horsemen in the world; and one of
their greatest sports was to ride at full speed, and then
stop within a few feet of a given line, by suddenly reining
the horse on his haunches; or to gallop at full speed and,
without checking the horse, pick up from the ground a
sombrero or silver dollar; or to grasp the greased head of
a rooster, the body of which was buried in the sand, and
lift it from the ground. The common mode of travel was
by horseback, the men being constantly in the saddle; and
although women occasionally rode mounted alone, yet they
generally rode seated behind their husbands or brothers.
Carriages were almost unknown in California before 1845,
although Santa Barbara was particularly fortunate in the
ownership of two, one of which was the property of the

THE PUEBLO 91
Mission, and the other the property of Captain De la
Guerra. But there were a number of springless ox-carts,
with their lumbering wheels of solid oak, and slow plod
ding oxen; and when used as family conveyances they were
furnished with leather coverings and cushions.
These were a peace-loving, pleasure-loving people; and
they enjoyed many festive days. Near the junction of Gar
den and Cota streets was located what is known as the De
la Guerra Gardens, formerly the private property of that
family, and where fruit and vegetables were grown for
their private use. But the shady trees which grew there
luxuriously and the many springs of water made them an
attractive pleasure ground, to which the friends of the
family, who included all the good people of the pueblo, were
frequently invited to celebrate some holiday. The three
days' festivity which celebrated tbe wedding of Mr. Alfred
Robinson in 1836, and which was spoken of by Mr. Dana
in his " Two years before the Mast," was but one of the
many recurring occasions of general pleasure-making and re
joicing. The following account by Mr. Alfred Robinson of the
wedding of Don Manuel Jimineo with Dona Maria de las
Angustias De la Guerra, which occurred in 1837, gives an
excellent idea of some of the customs prevailing in the pueblo
at that time :
" On the marriage eve the bride went with her father to
the Mission dressed in her usual church costume, which
was deep black; where the joining of hands took place
towards morning, and at a late hour the church ceremonies
were performed. Breakfast was served with considerable
taste, a task to which the worthy friar was fully competent.
At the conclusion the bride and bridegroom were escorted
to the house of her father. Padre Antonio had made his In-

92 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
dians happy by distributing presents among them ; and many
of the younger ones, well attired for the occasion, joined in
the procession. They approached the town without any
regular order until arriving almost within its precincts;
where under the direction of the friar, they formed and
marched in the following manner: First came the military
band, consisting of about twenty performers, who were
dressed in a new uniform of red jackets trimmed with yellow
cord, with pantaloons made after the Turkish fashion, and
red caps of the Polish order. Then followed the bride and
bridegroom, in an open English barouche, accompanied by
the sister of the former. After these in a close carriage
came Don Jose and Father Antonio ; in another the Madrina
and cousins, and lastly numbers of men and women on horse
back. Guns were fired alternately, at the Mission and in
the presidio until their arrival at the house of the ' fiesta de
boda.' At one o'clock a large number of invited guests sat
down at a long table, to partake of an excellent dinner. The
married couple were seated at the head with the father spirit
ual on the right ; and the father temporal on the left. Dinner
being over, part of the company retired to their homes,
whilst some of the younger members adjourned to a booth,
which was prepared in the court yard, sufficiently large to
contain several hundred people. Here they danced a while
and then retired. Early in the evening, people, invited and
uninvited, began to fill up the booth, and soon dancing com
menced. The music consisted of two violins and a guitar,
on which were performed many beautiful waltzes and contra-
dances, together with a number of local melodies. During
the evening all took active part in the amusement, and as
the poorer classes exhibited their graceful performances,
the two fathers from an elevated position threw at their
feet silver dollars, and donations. The ' Fandango ' lasted

THE PUEBLO 93
until the morning light appeared, accompanied with all the
variety customary on such occasions.
" On the next day, Father Antonio as a further compli
ment to the bride, had dinner prepared in the corridor of the
Mission, the table reaching from one end to the other, and
the place being adorned with flags. Here all the town was
invited to participate, where old and young, rich and poor,
lame and blind, black and white, joined in the feast. For
several succeeding nights the ' Fandango ' was repeated at
the booth, and they had enough of feasting and dancing in
termingled with the amusements of the ' Carnes toleridas '
to last them for some time."
Few of the festivities were regarded as being sufficiently
important to be recorded; but an event long remembered
was the coming of Bishop Garcia Diego to make Santa Bar
bara his official residence. The whole population of the
pueblo prepared to welcome the first bishop of California;
and as the vessel which brought him from the south came
to anchor, every house was deserted; and men, women, and
children gathered on the beach and on bended knees received
his blessing. The guns of the presidio proclaimed the wel
come, as the soldiers with beating drums and flowing ban
ners escorted the bishop, who seated in a carriage passed
beneath triumphal arches, which had been made by the
women. After he had partaken of refreshments at the home
of one of the leading families, the rejoicing people led him
to his carriage, from which they had removed the horses;
and forming in procession dragged it to the Mission.
Within nearly every house was a guitar, and when even
ing came and twilight darkened, from all parts of the pueblo
were heard the sounds of music and rich melodious voices.
There was something distinctly characteristic in their songs,
in most of which there was a minor tone of sweet plaintive-

94 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
ness. When the lamps were hung and the guitars and vio
lins sounded the waltz, light hearts beat and merry peals
of laughter floated through the old California homes. Lis
some forms glided gracefully through the halls. Dark vel
vety eyes looked words unspoken. The hours passed rapidly
by, and before the last dance had been stepped and the last
soft glance given, the bells of the old Mission tower had
sounded the matin call. Those were halcyon days in the
fairest spot in a lotus land.

The De La Guerra House

THE RANCHOS
When the Mission was established, it acquired posses
sion of large tracts of land that were necessary for support
ing the Mission settlement. Some of this land was segre
gated as ranches to be used for different purposes; as for
instance : the lands tributary to El Capitan were at first used
exclusively for raising sheep; and the Rancho San Julian
was for several years leased by the Mission to the presidio
for raising beef cattle. At the time of the secularization these
different ranches passed to different owners. There were,
however, many valuable tracts of land that the Mission
never made use of; and these the Mexican government
granted to prominent men of the early days, as a reward for
services to the state. In this way much of the valuable land
of Santa Barbara County was granted away. Some of the
grants comprised as many as forty thousand acres, and in
all there were about thirty grants of ranches in the present
county. In a fertile valley on each ranch sprang up the ranch set-
dement, consisting of the home of the owner, the dwellings
where the major-domo and the vacqueros lived, and the
sheds and corrals for the horses. All of the buildings were
of adobe; and often were picturesquely located by some
stream of water, beneath the shade of oaks. About others
were planted the pepper trees so characteristic of Southern
California, and which seem to have been introduced by the
padres who brought them from Mexico. Every ranch home
of importance had its vegetable garden, vineyard, and or-
95

96 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
chard. The principal grape grown was a dark purple one,
now known as the Mission grape ; and in the orchards were
raised citrons, lemons, oranges, pomegranates, figs, peaches,
apples, and pears. . . (
With the exception of a few acres near the settlement,
very little of the ground was cultivated. This was probably
due to the lack of suitable implements, as the only plows in
use were made of crooked branches of a tree. To one end
of the branch was sometimes attached a sharpened piece of
iron; and the other end was fastened to the horns of the
oxen. But if only a small part of the land was cultivated,
over the hills roamed large bands of horses and herds of
cattie, which a few vacqueros on their horses were con
stantly following and rounding up, as there were no fences
in those days. Horses multiplied so rapidly that they were
regarded as of little value; and large bands of unclaimed
horses roamed wild over the county, consuming pasturage
which was needed for the cattle. Accordingly, they were
frequently driven into corrals where they were killed by a
well-directed spear thrust. Even as early as 1815, they were
regarded as being of such detriment that at Santa Barbara
a wholesale slaughter of horses was made that year.
Probably none of the ranches of Santa Barbara County
was granted prior to the year 1800, but one of the earliest
grants was that of the Rancho del Refugio, which was
granted to Captain Jose Francisco Ortega about that time.
The ownership of this ranch passed to his son, Don Jose
Maria Ortega, known as Sergeant Ortega, under whose
care it was developed and improved, until it presented the
appearance of a little Mission. There were numerous
houses at the main settlement, which was located near the
ocean about thirty miles up the coast from Santa Barbara;
and in the picturesque canyon not far from the ocean was

THE RANCHOS 97
erected a mill for grinding the corn. Higher up the canyon
was a dam and an aqueduct for directing the water to the
mill and thence conducting it to the orchards and vegetable
gardens. The Ortegas were noted for their hospitality;
and all who passed up or down the coast were glad to spend
a night at their ranch. Unfortunately it lost much of its
early splendor in the year 18 18, when it was plundered by
the pirates who were led by Bouchard; but there still re
main many of the old houses, interesting in their passing
glory. The Spanish-Californians were distinctly a pastoral peo
ple, and many other beautiful and interesting ranches of
more recent patent were granted and located throughout
the county. Raising cattle for their hides was for many
years the principal industry; and the free life of the ranch
accorded with the nature-loving spirit of the people.
The busiest season at the ranches was in the early sum
mer, when the cattle were rounded up and branded. It was
one of the most beautiful times of the year. The last rains
had left the grass green, and the fields were still covered
with wild flowers. The days were growing longer and the
warm sun brightened the land. There was no sound of
modern industry or ambition's strife. Only the singing of
birds or the lowing of cattle awoke the stillness. It was a
dreamland of peace.
Then the owner of the ranch would leave the pueblo
with all his family and go to his country home. Work be
gan at early dawn and lasted till sundown, but it was a work
that all enjoyed; and when the day's work was done and the
sun had set, the families gathered in the open air to listen to
the guitar and the songs they loved so dearly. There were
light feet and light hearts in the old Californian days and
joyful songs and merry peals of laughter.

98 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
The typical ranch life of the early days has passed away,
and only a few of the old rancheros remain. Not long ago,
one of them was speaking of the ranch where he lived when
a boy. " It lay beyond the mountain range," he said, " and
extended over rolling hills and little valleys. A creek flowed
through it, and on the banks were many sycamores. Shaded
by oaks was the long, low adobe house with its red tiled
roof and wide veranda. Behind the fence of chaparral was
the orchard and the melon patch, and beyond the orchard
was the meadow, golden with buttercups in early spring. In
the open fields, dotted with oaks, the rich alfilerilla grew,
and on the hillsides were the wild grasses, which waved like
billows as the cool breezes from the distant ocean blew over
them. The sameness of recurring events of each succeeding
year never seemed monotonous, but brought repose, con
tent, and peace. When the dew was still on the grass, we
would mount our horses and herd the cattle, if any had
strayed beyond the pasture. In the wooded canyons where
the cool brooks flowed, and where the wild blackberries
grew, we ate our noonday meal and rested. And as the
hills began to glow with the light of the setting sun we
sauntered homeward. When the long days of summer came,
we ate our evening meals beneath the oaks, and in the twi
light we listened to the guitar and the songs of our people.
In the autumn we harvested the corn and gathered the
olives and the grapes.
" Those were days of long ago. Now all is changed by
modern progress; but in the simple ranch life of the olden
time there was a contented happiness which an alien race
with different sentiments and different temperament can never
understand."

APPENDIX I.

LOS SOLDADOS DE CUERA

The following are the names of all the soldiers, not includ
ing the Indian auxiliaries, who were present at the founding of the
presidio, and who were known as soldados de cuera, on account of
the leather jackets which they wore. Many of their descendants
became well known in the subsequent life of Santa Barbara.
Captain, Jose Francisco Ortega.
First Lieutenant, Pablo Cota.
Second Lieutenant, Dario Arguello.
First Sergeant, Jose Carrillo.
Second Sergeant, Jose Maria Ortega.
Third Sergeant, Ignacio Olivera.
First Corporal, Pedro Amador.
Second Corporal, Jose Ignacio Rodriguez.

Jose Ayala,
Juan Ballesteros,
Salvador Cervantes,
Mariano Cota,
Juan Dominguez,
Anastasio Felix,
Rosalino Fernandez,
Jose M. Flores,
Francisco Garcia,
Isidro German,
Felipe Gonzalez,
Tomas Gonzalez,

Private Soldiers:
Juan Leyva,
Juan Jose Lobo,
Jose Logo,
Luis Logo,
Manuel Machado,
Jose I. Martinez,
Luis Pena,
Vicente Quijada,
Martin Reyes,
Ignacio Rochin,
Joaquin Rodriguez,
Juan M. Romero,
99

Eugenio Ruiz,
Jose Ruiz,
Tadeo Sanchez,
Guillermo Soto,
Juan Franco Soto,
Eugenio Valdez,
Jose Valdez,
Juan Valencia,
Manuel Valenzuela,
Jose Valenzuela,
Juan Villa,
Vicente F. Villa,

ico EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
APPENDIX II.
Derivation of the Names of Localities Near Santa Barbara
Rincon — Is the Spanish equivalent for a Corner, and is applied to the
mountain in the northwest corner of Ventura County.
Carpinteria — Is the Spanish equivalent for a Carpenter Shop. The
reason for the application of this word to the valley is uncertain.
It has been stated that a carpenter shop, carpinteria, existed in
the valley very many years ago ; and that the valley received its
name from that circumstance. It has also been stated that when
the padres first visited the valley the Indians were engaged as
carpenters, building boats; and from this circumstance the valley
was named.
Montecito — Is the Spanish equivalent for a Little Wood; and the
valley was so named on account of the many groves of trees
which grew there.
Mesa — Is the Spanish equivalent for Table, and refers to the table
land along the coast.
Goleta — Is the Spanish equivalent for Schooner. When Captain De
la Guerra was sent to Mexico, as habilitado general of Cali
fornia, he took with him a portable writing desk containing a
secret drawer, within which were concealed several thousand
pesos. Mexico was then in the throes of one of its many revo
lutions; and as a partisan of the government he was arrested
and his private papers removed; but the secret drawer and its
contents were undiscovered. Shortly afterwards he made his
escape, and with the pesos which he had concealed during his
confinement he purchased a schooner, in which he sailed from
Mexico and landed at Goleta. That locality was thereafter
designated Goleta, with reference to his schooner.
La Patera — Signifies in Spanish a place where ducks congregate ; and
that locality was so designated on account of the large flocks of
wild ducks which formerly frequented the low lands there.
Dos Pueblos — Is the Spanish equivalent for Two Villages; and re-

APPENDIX 101
fers to the two Indian rancherias, one of which was on each side
of the creek of that name.
Tecolote — Is the Indian word for An Owl.
Gaviota — Signifies in Spanish a Sea Gull, and that locality was so
named from the circumstance, that when Governor Portola and
Sergeant Ortega were marching up the coast to found the Mis
sion of Monterey, one of the soldiers shot a sea gull at that lo
cality.
Santa Cruz — Is the Spanish equivalent for Holy Cross.. See page
28 for origin of the appellation.
Anacapa — Is an Indian word implying deception in appearance; and
was applied to the island on account of the frequent mirages
which give it a weird and distorted appearance.

APPENDIX III.
THE DERIVATIONS OF THE NAMES OF THE STREETS OF SANTA
BARBARA ARE AS FOLLOWS:
Alamar — Is the Spanish for a Grove of Cotton Trees.
Alisos — Is the Spanish for Sycamores, many of which once grew on
the street so named.
Anacapa — Is so named because the street points in the direction of
the Island of that name. See above.
Anapamu — Is derived from the name of an Indian Chief who ruled
over many tribes, principally south of the City of Santa Barbara.
Arrellaga — Is named after Jose Joaquin de Arrellaga, who was
governor of California from 1792 to 1794.
Banos — Is the Spanish word for Baths, and the street was so named
as it led to that part of the beach where the people generally
bathed.
Cacique — Was the title which was applied to the chief of an Indian
tribe.
Canal — Is the Spanish for Channel, and the street is said to have been
so named because it led to the channel of Santa Barbara.

102 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
Carpinteria — Was named after the valley of that name, and was one
of the principal thoroughfares leading in that direction. See
page 100.
Carrillo — Was named after the Carrillo family, of whom Raimundo
Carrillo was comandante, and Joaquin Carrillo was district
judge.
Castillo — Is the Spanish word for Castle or Fort, and the street was
so named as it led to the old Spanish fort on the Mesa.
Chapala — Was named by some of the early settlers after the town in
Mexico from which they came.
Chino — Was named after the Rancho del Chino, where occurred
the battle of San Pascual.
Cota — Was named after the Cota family, one of whom was first
lieutenant under Captain Ortega.
Canada — Signifies in Spanish a Ravine, and the street was so named
as it extended to a ravine.
Canon Perdido — Derives its name from the following incident:
At the time that the regiment of Col. J. D. Stevenson was here,
a brass twelve-pound cannon was landed on the beach; but a
number of native Californians carried it off at night and hid it
in the vicinity of Canon Perdido street. As Canon Perdido is
the Spanish equivalent for " lost cannon," the street near where
it was buried thereafter received that name.
De la Guerra — Was named after the family of that name.
De la Vina — Once called Vineyard street, derived its name from the
fact that Comandante Goycoechea owned a vineyard through
which the street passed.
Figueroa — Was named after Governor Figueroa, who was governor
of Alta California in 1833.
Garden or Jardines — Street if extended would pass through the gar
dens which in early days were known as the De la Guerra gar
dens, from which fact the street was so named.
Gillespie — Was named after Captain Gillespie, who had charge of
the American troops at the battle of San Pascual.
Gutierrez — Was named after the Gutierrez family, who were promi-

APPENDIX 103
nent residents here and in other parts of California. Col.
Nicolas Gutierrez was acting governor and military commander
of Alta California after Governor Chico.
Haley — Was named after Salisbury Haley, who made what is known
in Santa Barbara as the Haley survey.
Indio Muerto — Signifies in Spanish, A Dead Indian, and the street
was so named because a dead Indian was found in the locality
where the street passes.
Islay — Is the Indian name for the wild cherry which grows on the
Santa Ynez Mountains.
Junipero — Is named after Junipero Serral
Ladera — Is the Spanish word for Declivity, and the street is so
named as it is on the hillside.
Laguna — Street extended to the lake or languna which existed in
early days in the lower part of the city, from which circumstance
the name was derived.
Los Olivas — Is the Spanish for Olives; and the street is so named as
it passed through the old garden of the Mission where many
olive trees grew, and many of which are still standing.
Mason — Was named after Governor Mason, who levied a tax of
five hundred dollars to pay for the lost cannon.
Micheltorena — Was named after Manuel Micheltorena, who was
appointed governor of Alta California in 1842.
Milpas — Is derived from an Indian word meaning a patch of ground
sown to grain. In the early days, large quantities of corn and
grain were raised in the vicinity of Milpas street.
Montecito — Street led towards the valley of Montecito, which in
Spanish signifies A Little Wood.
Nopal — Is the Indian word for the Prickly Pear.
Pedregosa — Is the Spanish adjective for Stony, and the street was
so named after the arroyo Pedregosa which crosses part of it.
Pitos — Is the Spanish word for Flutes, and the street derived its
name from the reeds which grew where the street now passes,
and from which flutes were made by the Indians.
Pueblo — Signifies in Spanish a Town or Village, and refers to the

104 EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
Indian pueblo near the Mission, which was in the vicinity of
that street.
Punta Gorda — Signifies in Spanish a High Bluff, and refers to the
bank to which the street extends.
Quaratino — Derived its name from the fact that some ships were
once put in quarantine near where the street reaches the beach.
Quinientos — Is the Spanish word for Five Hundred, and the deri
vation of the name of the street is as follows : The native Cali
fornians who had stolen the cannon above referred to alleged
that it had been lost by the sailors, in their attempt to place it on
the ship which was to convey it to Monterey; but as Governor
Mason, to whom the matter was referred, refused to credit the
report, he levied a tax of five hundred dollars on the town of
Santa Barbara, and a company of soldiers was sent from Los
Angeles to force payment. As many of the innocent residents
regarded the tax as unwarranted, they refused to pay it, where
upon a sufficient amount of their property was sold to meet their
share of the tax.
Rancheria — Was so named on account of a rancheria or Indian vil
lage which formerly existed in that vicinity.
Robbins — Was named after Captain Thomas M. Robbins, who came
to Santa Barbara before 1830, and who formerly owned a ranch
to which that street extended.
Salinas — Signifies in Spanish a Salt Marsh, and the street was so
named as it extended to a salt pond or marsh.
Salsipuedas — :In Spanish (Sal si puedas) means " get out if you can,"
and the name was applied to the street on account of the many
gulches it crossed.
San Andres — Is said to have been named after the location where
a revolutionary skirmish occurred between the native Califor
nians.
San Buenaventura — Was named after the pueblo of San Buena
ventura, and in Spanish signifies Welcome.
San Pascual — Was named after the battle of San Pascual, which oc-

APPENDIX 105
curred in 1846, between the American forces and the Cali
fornians.
Sola — Was named after Vicente de Sola, who was governor of Alta
California from 1815 to 1823.
Soledad — Signifies in Spanish, Solitude, and the street was so named
because it passed through that part of the town in which there
were few inhabitants.
Valerio — Was named after an Indian, who escaped from the Mission
about the year 1826, and turned robber. He lived in a cave
in the Santa Ynez Mountains, where he hid his spoil.
Victoria — Was named after Manuel Victoria, who was governor of
Alta California in 1831.
Voluntario — Is the Spanish for Volunteers, and it is stated that Fre
mont's camp of volunteers was on a hill to which the street
extended.

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