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The
History of Arizona
FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES KNOWN TO
THE PEOPLE OF EUROPE
TO 1903
By
SIDNEY R. DeLONG

Written under the auspices of the Pioneer Historical Society
of Arizona

W&t aai&ttattet & l&ag Company
(Incorporated)
PUBLISHERS
San Francisco
1905

Copyright, spoj
by
The Whitaker & Ray Company

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PREFACE
Often the preface to a book becomes a public declara
tion of what the author does not do, and in many instances
never intends to do. What is wished to be presented in
this work is a history of Arizona from the time it first
became known to Europeans down to the present time.
A glance at the antiquities show it to have been inhabited
at one time in the distant past, by a race that carried the
arts of agriculture beyond that known by the Indian races
in the Territory of the present day.
The design of the work is to show the progress made
under 250 years of Spanish rule, when the priest and the
warrior ruled absolutely. Mexico, from 1821 until 1856,
exercised merely nominal sway, and from that time until
the present, the United States have exercised jurisdiction,
and much has been done to civilize the wild Indian tribes
and develop the agricultural and mineral resources.
The object of the historian should be to write truth re
gardless of whom it may please or displease. In the past,
historians of empires and of states have allowed themselves
to be partisans, therefore, much that we have been taught
to revere as truth, some as Divine, reads like fiction and
will not bear analysing at cold Reason's tribunal. The en
deavor in this work has been to present the history of
Arizona, not particularly in an attractive form, but in a
truthful one.
The work has been written under the auspices of the
Arizona Historical Society, and to that Society the author
offers his sincere acknowledgments for their consideration
and universal kindness.
Another great object of this work is to draw attention
to the vast resources of Arizona, which has been considered

6 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
by many people a desert. Novels have been written, and
obtained quite extensive circulation, of "The Country that
God Forgot," in which the scenes were located in Arizona.
Truth must brush away such cobwebs.
The author acknowledges his obligations to the Hon.
Samuel Hughes, to Charles A. Shibell, Hon. William J.
Osborn, Charles Connell and to Governor Brodie, for im
portant documents, public or private, and to the citizens of
Arizona generally, for their kindness and consideration.
The book is put forth, — the reading public must be the
judges. Well wishes and happiness to all.
The Author.

CONTENTS
Introduction  9
PART I
CHAPTER I
The Acquisition of Arizona — The Gadsden Pur
chase — Topography and Resources of Arizona
— The Apache Indian  13
CHAPTER II
Exploring Expeditions — Territorial Organization
and Government — Governmental Surveys —
Emigration  37
CHAPTER III
The Oatman Tragedy — Early Means of Transpor
tation — Establishment of Military Stations
— Scientific Explorers — Crabb Massacre  52
CHAPTER IV
Missions and Building of Churches — The Grand
Canon of the Colorado — Montezuma's Well. . 75
List of Governors of Arizona and Length of Ser
vice  85
PART II
CHAPTER V
Apache County  89
CHAPTER VI
Coconino County  94
CHAPTER VII
Cochise County  101

8 CONTENTS (Continued)
CHAPTER VIII
Gila County  io5
CHAPTER IX
Graham County  IIJ
CHAPTER X
Maricopa County  ll7
CHAPTER XI
Mojave County  i25
CHAPTER XII
Navajo County  128
CHAPTER XIII
Pinal County  130
CHAPTER XIV
Pima County  138
CHAPTER XV
Santa Cruz County  161
CHAPTER XVI
Yavapai County  167
CHAPTER XVII
Yuma County  178
CHAPTER XVIII
Closing Remarks  190
List of Original Members of Arizona Pioneer His
torical Society  195
List of Members of Arizona Pioneer Historical
Society Who Came to the Territory After
January i, 1870  199

INTRODUCTION
In writing the " History of Arizona " the same ground
has to be gone over that has been gone over before, and of
its early history, Mr. H. H. Bancroft, in his exhaustive
work, "Native Races of the Pacific Coast," has said about
all that can be said; the form may be changed somewhat,
but details must be the same. In describing the productive
ness of the country, especially the mines, there could be no
real guide; only from personal observation could that be
found out. While there are desert wastes in Arizona that
no industry can render productive, there is a vast amount of
land, which, if water can be gotten upon it, can be made
productive and serviceable for the uses of mankind.
Arizona is a vast country, comprising nearly 114,000
square miles, and at least one-fourth of this vast area is fit
for cultivation, so it is evident this Territory, can support a
great population. The writer remembers when, in the East
ern world, California was looked upon as mostly desert; it
was thought there were a few spots where something
might be done in the way of stock-raising, and the rest was
given over to coyotes, wolves and bears. About 1852 there
was a work published in Germany in the German language,
in which the author could see no good in California, and
he, evidently, had traveled over it. I do not know whether
the work was ever published in English ; if it were it would
prove a contradiction now, in face of the great strides Cali
fornia has made, is making, and will continue to make in
spite of carpers.
The great majority of people is strongly inclined to be
gregarious, and this, in connection with the prejudice in
favor of the country in which they have been reared, keeps
many from going into new countries. It is only the hardy

10 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
and venturesome that go first ; then, when it is learned they
have made a success, others will timidly follow. Had the
Spaniards realized what a country California was to be, they
would have left Spain in a body for the new El Dorado.
Had the people cultivating the bleak and stony hills of New
England realized what the Western States really were ca
pable of, they would have left all to go to the great West ;
but it was not to be. Only as necessity drives populations
will the great mass seek new homes. The West, however,
and the Pacific Slope, in particular, will eventually control
the world's commerce.

PART I

f

CHAPTER I
The Acquisition of Arizona — The Gadsden Purchase
— Topography and Resources of Arizona — The
Apache Indian.
That portion of the United States now known as Ari
zona Territory was acquired from Mexico by two separate
and distinct treaties. By that of Guadalupe Hidalgo at the
close of the Mexican War, February 2, 1848, was acquired
all territory north and west of a line that left the Rio
Grande some eight miles above El Paso, runs west three
degrees on a parallel, and thence north on about the 109°
meridian to the first branch of the Gila River, thence down
this branch and along the main river to its junction with
the Colorado of the west, at the town of Yuma as it is now.
The boundary commission which made this survey was
in charge of Major John R. Bartlett on the part of the
United States, and John C. Cremony was Spanish inter
preter. At that time Cremony had not acquired the Apache
language, in which he afterwards became so proficient that
he wrote a glossary and grammar, which is believed to be
buried in the archives of the Smithsonian Institution at
Washington, and attributed to the erudition of General
James H. Carleton, who commanded the military department
of New Mexico and Arizona at that time, but who never
understood a word of Apache language.
Among- the first acts of President Franklin Pierce, after
his inauguration in 1853, was the sending to Mexico, as
minister plenipotentiary, Hon. James Gadsden. The object
of his mission was to obtain from Mexico a concession for
a feasible route for a railroad to the Pacific Ocean, as the
more northern routes, which have since been utilized, were

14 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
not deemed practicable, or at least only by men like the
Hon. Thomas H. Benton, of Missouri, and a few others.
On December 30, 1853, the treaty was ratified by the United
States Senate by which, for the sum of $10,000,000, Mexico
relinquished all claim and jurisdiction over that portion of
territory, the southern line of which was as follows, viz.:
Commencing at a point in the center of the Rio Grande,
north latitude 31" 7,/, thence west one hundred miles;
thence south to north latitude 31° 20'; thence west to in0
meridian west from Greenwich ; thence to a point in the
center of the Colorado River, twenty miles below the mouth
of the Gila River; thence up the Colorado to southeast
corner of the State of California. The Gadsden Purchase
embraced that portion of New Mexico west of the Rio
Grande and all of Arizona, situated south of the Gila River.
The iii° meridian of longitude is about twelve miles west
of the present town of Nogales, the county seat of Santa
Cruz County.
The American portion of this boundary commission was
in charge of Major Emory, afterwards a major-general of
the United States army. The late Hon. Peter R. Brady,
our brother pioneer, was with the expedition as Spanish
interpreter, but left it when it reached the angle point at
111° meridian of west longitude— the rest of the line was
not run by compass and chain for a year, or so, and when
it was surveyed it was from the Colorado River principally,
as the party from the angle monument did not get over
seventy-five or eighty miles before meeting the party from
the west, and, as the first lines did not meet, it was neces
sary to go over the whole work to find the error, which was
finally found and rectified, and the boundary line stands
today as it was finally left, as the re-survey of a few years
ago did not alter it.
There was a draft of three treaties brought back from
Mexico by General Gadsden from which the President and

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 15
Senate of the United States could choose. The most south
ern was to start from a point in the center of the Rio Grande
and run west on the parallel of latitude 360 north to the
Gulf of California, and thence take in the whole of Lower
California for which the United States were to pay
$25,000,000. This would have embraced about one-third of
the Mexican states of Chihuahua and Sonora and all of the
peninsula of Lower California. The second proposition
was to start as now from the center of the Rio Grande some
eight miles above El Paso, north latitude 31° 37'; thence
west one hundred miles ; thence south to north latitude 31" ;
thence west to the Gulf of California, and this, also, was to
include Lower California, for which the United States were
to pay Mexico the sum of $15,000,000. Third and last was
the Skeleton Treaty, which embraced the country within the
boundaries as already described and known as the Gadsden
Purchase. The treaty for the most northern portion of Mexico and
for the smallest monetary consideration, after much wrang
ling and friction in the Senate at Washington, was finally
agreed upon. When the necessity of a port upon the Gulf
of California was urged by some of the Senators of broader
views upon national questions, it was answered that a port
at Yuma on the Colorado River, where a camp of soldiers
had just been established, hardly permanent yet, would
answer all purposes. The real fact even at that early day
was that the subject of slavery was looming into view — a
subject that a few years later swallowed up all other politi
cal questions. This will account for the sensitiveness of
northern and eastern senators as to the extension of terri
tory to the south being then considered, that all southern
territory would be slave territory. As it has since turned
out that all which was then slave territory in the United
States has become free territory, it may be questioned
whether those men who so strongly opposed the extension
of our possessions to the south, were not blinded to the real

16 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
public interest by their prejudice against an institution in
its very nature evanescent and fleeting.
The admission of Texas into the Federal Union as a
State was opposed by quite a strong party, principally in
the northern and northeastern States, for no other real rea
son than the fear that it would strengthen the slave power.
All men are not philosophers, had they been so the great
strife over this institution, which in its nature was doomed
to extermination through natural causes, would never have
taken place. In some parts of the country this oppo
sition to the admission of Texas was the issue that
divided the political parties in 1844 and made it possible
to elect James K. Polk of Tennessee over the unrivalled
orator and statesman of Kentucky, Henry Clay. The elec
tion of i860 was deemed by the secession leaders the aus
picious moment to plunge the country into a fratricidal
war under the pretext that the institution of slavery was
in danger, and the extreme Southern States commenced
arming and taking forcible possession of Federal forts,
arsenals, mints, etc. The Federal government urged on,
perhaps, by the impetuosity of some of the States called out
troops to suppress rebellion or rather to enforce its author
ity, until finally both sides had powerful armies in the field,
and it was left to gigantic veteran armies under most
efficient captains to decide the question. It was decided
after over four years' of struggle that the general govern
ment was supreme. Slavery was forcibly eliminated but
left roots of bitterness, from which have sprung up crops
of hatred even to the present day.
Arizona embraces that portion of the earth's surface in
cluded within a line from east to west between meridian of
109° on the east, to about 114° on the west, and from the
parallel of 31" 20' north to 37° north. The actual square
miles of territory in Arizona are 113,916, or nearly three
times the size of the State of New York. At the time of
the acquisition of that portion of Arizona known as the

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 17
"Gadsden Purchase," there were but few Americans settled
within its boundaries; some few' came in soon after and
settled about Tubac and Tucson and at the mines then
working or about to start up : as the Mowry and Cerro Colo
rado. There being no organized territorial government,
Arizona was, by act of Congress, attached to New Mexico,
or rather, perhaps, to Donna Ana County of New Mexico,
for governing purposes — so any violators of law had to be
taken to Mesilla, New Mexico, for trial. The result, prac
tically, was that for some years in Arizona every man was
a law unto himself, and men went about their daily avoca
tions armed to the teeth and doing what seemed good in
their eyes. There were soon a few hardy spirits, who could
hardly be called settlers, encamped along the Colorado
River upon the western boundary, mostly within the limits
of what is now Mojave County.
Arizona has been greatly misunderstood by people out
side its borders and misrepresented as well ; and it is largely
held even at this present writing, to be a vast, sand plain,
with here and there an oasis in it and these, only, at long
intervals. This false opinion has been largely catered to
by a class of writers, who have, perhaps, been here, wish
ing to make themselves appear as heroes and martyrs, and
who indulge in fairy tales of their own exploits and deeds
of daring, as well as sufferings and privations endured upon
those sun-scorched, sirocco swept, desolate plains of what,
in reality, is beautiful Arizona. Much was said in the halls
of Congress and outside about the arid wastes of the new
purchase; especially by those of opposite politics, to the
party in power at the time of the acquisition. It is a curious
freak of human nature that is unable to see anything
good in whatever opponents may advocate and carry
out, throwing every obstruction in the way to prevent an
honest execution of wholesome acts. Such has ever been
the case in this republic from its inception down to the
present hour.

18 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
During the administration of George Washington the
obstructionists and fault-finders were clamorous, denounc
ing him as an imperialist seeking to found an empire on the
nation's ruins, yet these spot-finders have passed from the
memory of men, while the name of Washington and his
acts of unselfish statesmanship shine brighter and brighter
as the ages recede from his day; an example of a perfect
character for the world to wonder at.
Some of those who have written what they denominated
a "History of Arizona," have displayed as much ignorance
of the topography of the country as the romantic tale writ
ers. Samuel W. Cozzens, for instance, in "The Marvelous
Country," gets to Tucson from Mesilla, on the Rio Grande,
in New Mexico, and comes over the one direct wagon route
and does not discover the San Pedro River or the Cienega
de los Pimas, thirty miles southeasterly from Tucson. The
inference would seem to be that he was at Mesilla on the
Rio Grande now in Donna Ana County, New Mexico, but
there was an attempt made in or about i860 to organize a
territory out of what is now Arizona, up to latitude
33° 45' north, and run east to the western line of Texas,
and a full set of officers were appointed, mostly self-ap
pointed. (Cozzens was one of the "Supreme Court" judges
of this "Provisional Government.") A map was gotten
out in i860 under the supervision of Sylvester Mowry,
showing this new "State" as has been indicated, but that
was as far as the scheme proceeded. Cozzens seems to have
been quite intimate with matters upon the Rio Grande, but
probably took much of his description of what is Arizona
now from the writings of others; therefore, when he at
tempts to describe scenery at different points en route, he
shows an utter lack of knowledge of the real conditions,
and what mountain peaks are or are not visible; as an
instance he tells us that Dos Cabezas was visible in the west
and Cook's Peak to the eastward, neither of which are visi
ble from the point indicated, viz. : in Doubtful Canon. From

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 19
the top of Stein's Peak, the points mentioned could be seen,
but he does not state that he ascended that precipitous peak,
and doubtless did not as it would take a day of hard labor,
besides being considered dangerous.
That portion of New Mexico upon the map referred to,
of the contemplated "State" lying east of the Rio Grande,
and between it and the west line of Texas, was designated
as the county of Donna Ana, and from the Rio Grande
west to a line passing north and south at about the western
side of the Chiricahua Range of mountains, at the western
mouth of Apache Pass, through the said range of moun
tains, was called the county of Mesilla, and from that point
west to the 112° 30' meridian of west longitude was called
Ewell County, in honor of Major Ewell at that time United
States army commander of the troops then in Arizona, after
wards Major-General Ewell of the Southern Confederacy.
From the 1120 32' meridian of west longitude to the west
ern boundary was called Castle Dome County, from the
most prominent mountain peak to be seen north of Yuma,
some thirty miles, and is principally embraced in what is
now the county of Yuma. This map is certified to by Syl
vester Mowry, who signs it as "Delegate to Congress from
Arizona," though he was never allowed to take the seat of
a delegate as the territory was not organized.
.The advance of the California troops, known as the "Cali
fornia Column," reached Tucson on May 20, 1862. The
small body of Confederates, under a Captain Hunter, who
had occupied Tucson about four months, left upon the ap
proach of the California troops, as they were not in suffi
cient force to make a successful resistance, withdrawing to
the main body of their army under Sibley at Mesilla, New
Mexico. On June 8, 1862, Colonel James H. Carleton,
commanding these volunteer troops from California, by gen
eral orders placed the whole Territory under martial law
until such time as a civil government should be organized
under the jurisdiction of the United States. For the few

20 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
people then in Arizona, perhaps, a military government
was the best attainable, as under its direct methods every
man knew his duty and the consequences of a violation of
that duty, and governed himself accordingly.
On February 20, 1863, the United States Congress
passed an act organizing the Territory of Arizona and ap
pointing civil officers. The first governor appointed was
Hon. John Gurly, but as he died in New York City before
the officials got ready to leave for their post of duty, Hon.
John N. Goodwin received the appointment to fill the va
cancy; Richard C. McCormick, secretary; William F.
Turner, chief justice; William F. Howell and Joseph A.
Allyn, associate justices; Almon Gage, district attorney;
Levi Bashford, surveyor-general; Milton B. Duffield,
marshal and Charles D. Poston, Indian agent, or rather
superintendent of Indian affairs. The Territorial .govern
ment was formally organized on December 29, 1863, at
Navajo Springs, forty miles northwest of the famous Zuni
pueblo. Richard C. McCormick, secretary, upon the rais
ing of the flag announcing the sovereignty of the United
States, made an appropriate speech. The party remained
but a short time at the springs, moving on westward, and
early in 1864, they reached the site of the city of Prescott,
where a permanent halt was made, as this town was des
tined for some years to be the seat of government for the
Territory. If, to get the capital in the geographical center
of the Territory were the object, it could not have been
bettered. Shortly after the capital was located at Prescott,
the publication of the Arizona Miner was commenced by
Secretary R. C. McCormick, and has been published ever
since, now as the Journal Miner. The capital was removed
from Prescott in 1868 to Tucson and was moved back in
1877, but did not long remain as it was transferred to
Phoenix where it is at this pfesent time, and where it will
probably remain in permanence, as a fine capitol has been
erected there, and the railroad facilities make it easy of
access to all.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 21
Arizona is entirely upon the Pacific slope of the conti
nent and the drainage of the whole Territory is into the
Gulf of California. Arizona in its physical aspect consists
of a series of table-lands that rise up from a few hundred
feet on the southwest, to some six to eight thousand feet
above sea level on the north and east, and mountain ranges
run from three thousand up to eight and nine thousand
feet and a few isolated peaks to a much higher elevation.
The valley land along the streams is very productive when
cultivated, and with water gotten out upon the plateaux
or table-lands much of that can be rendered as remunera
tive for certain products as the valley lands. Rains cannot
be depended upon to afford a sufficient moisture to make
certain or reasonably so, a remunerative harvest. What
Arizona requires and must have before she can become a
great producer of the necessities of life is a thorough and
extensive system of irrigation. There is enough water go
ing to waste each year to answer the end desired could the
surplus be saved during the flood season, in large reservoirs,
and in the dry season let out as needed, to moisten and
vivify the vast plains, which need only water to make them
"blossom as the rose." Artesian water has been brought
to the surface in several localities, which will greatly assist
in fertilizing the soil when obtained and no good reason can
be given why it should not be obtained at many more points
than it has been up to this time. The mountains are filled
with minerals: gold, silver, lead, copper, iron and many
more. Some of the great producing mines of the world
are in Arizona, and her vast mineral resources have but
been glanced at. There are in Arizona, also, vast forests
of the finest timber, mostly north of the Gila River, al
though considerable lies south of that stream in the large
mountain ranges in the southeastern portion. We have
also a petrified forest of great extent, — the largest known
tipon the globe.

22 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
In the year 1857 a line of stages was put on to run from
San Antonio, Texas, to San Diego, California, via El Paso,
Texas, Mesilla, New Mexico, Tucson and Pima villages,
Arizona and Fort Yuma, California (then there was no
settlement on the Arizona or eastern bank of the Colorado
River opposite the fort newly constructed.) This mail line
ran twice a month each way, with a subsidy from the
United States of $125,000 yearly. Some of the employees
of this pioneer stage line across the continent are still liv
ing, among whom may be mentioned John G. Capron, of
San Diego, California, and a Mr. St. John, who visits Tuc
son occasionally. This line brought the first regular mail
into Arizona and was finally taken off or merged into the
Overland Mail Company, which began operations in 1858,
starting from St. Louis, Missouri, with a branch line from
Memphis, Tennessee, to Fort Smith on the Arkansas River
at the western boundary of the State of Arkansas. The
line ran twice a week each way, starting simultaneously
from St. Louis and Memphis, and connecting at Fort Smith,
through San Antonio and El Paso, Texas ; Mesilla, New
Mexico; Tucson, Pima Villages, Yuma and crossing the
great desert via Alamo Mucho, Indian Wells, Sackett's
Well, Carizo Creek, Warner's Ranch, Oak Grove to Los
Angeles and up the Coast via Santa Barbara, San Luis
Obispo, Salinas and San Jose to San Francisco, carrying
the United States mail, with a subsidy to start upon of
$600,000 a year, which was increased to $1,200,000. The
schedule time allowed from St. Louis was twenty-four days,
but it was generally ended on the twenty-second day, so
it kept the steamers via both Panama and Nicaragua busy
competing. Of course while it ran the Tehuantepec route
from New Orleans via the Coatzacolcas River and Tehuan
tepec Isthmus could get mails through from New Orleans
to San Francisco in twelve days, but this company was too
weak to continue and failed early in 1859.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 23
The Overland Mail line did Arizona much good, open
ing a safe, and, for that day, a speedy line of communica
tion with the commercial centers east and west. This line
continued to make its semi-weekly trips with regularity
until the breaking out of the Civil War in 1861, when the
property of the company was forcibly taken possession of
by some of the States through which the line ran, notably,
the State of Texas ; such property of the company as could
be controlled was moved to the more northern route via
Salt Lake, and Arizona was left without mail or any public
facilities for communicating with the outside world for
several years. The first public mail that reached Tucson
after the Civil War came from California on horseback,
arriving September 1, 1865, and the first through mail from
the Eastern States, Barlow Sanderson and Company, arrived
in Tucson, August 25, 1866.
The great impediment to Arizona's progress has been
the Apache Indian, who has always been at war even when
at peace, paradoxical as it sounds. These Indians have
always shown themselves the determined foe of all civiliza
tion, and have never, so far as is known, had other means
of living than by plunder, — a band of the human race who
have ever plumed themselves upon the- amount they could
steal and rob from others, yet who perfectly comprehended
the law of right and wrong when applied to themselves ;
for no one could proclaim his wrongs more vociferously
than an Apache Indian were the least thing taken from
him. The Apache Indian, as a whole, is one of the worst
characters that has ever been brought forth upon this earth,
unless it may be said that all races have passed through the
same phases in their advance from the lowest stage of bar
barism up to civilization. It could not be said that the
Apache Indians inhabited any country. They roamed over
the country and by their ruthless, exterminating wars pre
vented more peacefully inclined tribes, even of their own
race, from settling down to cultivate the soil. Cruel,

24 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
rapacious, indolent, with no redeeming quality, except pa
tience to lie in wait and attack weaker parties when least
expected, and at most advantageous points, these Indians
were for centuries a terror and a scourge to all northern
Mexico, Arizona, New Mexico and even extended their
raids into Texas.
These freebooting Indians had succeeded by the time of
the close of the Mexican War, in 1848, in driving from
what is now Arizona, every vestige of civilization, and
were fast depopulating the Mexican State of Sonora and
much of New Mexico. After the Gadsden Purchase in
1853, and between that time and i860, some Americans
came into Arizona and two military posts were established
by the United States Government, which afforded as much
protection to the settlers as the paucity of numbers per
mitted. These posts were Buchanan upon the Sonoite,
near which the post of Crittenden was established soon after
the close of the Civil War, and in 1859, a Post was estab
lished upon the lower San Pedro River and just below
where the Aravaipa stream enters that stream from the
east, called Breckenridge, in honor of the Vice-President
as the former post was named in honor of President Bu
chanan. The great Overland Mail Company's stages were
put on in 1858, fully opening up communication with the
outside world. Some mines were opened and worked to a
limited extent, notably the Mowry, Cerro Colorado, Ajo
and a few others, all in southeastern Arizona; the great
mining region about where Prescott now is and the west
ern portion of the Territory were unknown. This same
year of 1858 Superintendent James H. Leech and Lieu
tenant Hutton with a strong party opened up what has
been since known as the "Leech" wagon route, coming west
from the Rio Grande in New Mexico; leaving it at La
Mesilla and following the old trail of the '49ers to a point
west of what is known as Cook's Pass, thence west, in
stead of deflecting to the southwest, through Guadalupe

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 25
Canon on the boundary line of Mexico, crossing the Rio
Miembres, thence via Ojo de Vaca (Cow Springs), and
Leidendorf Wells and Picacho de Gabilan (Hawk Peak),
now called Granite Peak, to Cienega de Sanz, Willow
Cienega, in the valley of the San Simon, then down this
valley to a point where it is now or about that "San Simon"
Station on the Southern Pacific Railroad, thence across the
valley about west to what was then and is yet known as
Railroad Pass at the northwesterly end of the Chiricahua
Mountains and through the pass some seven miles, thence
southwesterly to Croton Springs, across the valley of Sul
phur Springs, thence about west some forty miles to San
Pedro, touching that river at a point some nine miles below
Tres Alamos, or some eighteen miles below the present
town of Benson upon the Southern Pacific Railroad, thence
down the San Pedro River about forty-five miles to a point
where afterwards was located Fort Breckenridge, thence
westerly through a long, sandy canon and over hard, rocky
mesas, sandy plains and arroyos to the Gila River, a dis
tance of about fifty miles, striking that stream some ten
miles below where the town of Florence now is, following
on down that river and coming into the main traveled road
just above where now is the Sacaton Indian Agency. From
this point the expedition followed the traveled road via
Pima Villages, Gila Bend, Oatman Flat and Yuma, where
it crossed the Colorado River, Pilot Knob, Alamo Mucho,
Indian Wells, Sackett's Wells, Carizo Creek, Warner's
Ranch and Oak Grove to Los Angeles, California, where
the expedition was broken up, as the object for which it
was brought together had been accomplished.
In 1 861 the Civil War broke out, caused by the attempted
secession of some of the Southern States from the Federal
compact, which led to the withdrawal of all the United
States troops from Arizona and nearly all from New
Mexico, so that the dreaded Apache Indians were again in
the ascendancy, a position which they were not slow to

26 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
take advantage of to the fullest extent, deeming in their
egotism and ignorance that the troops were withdrawn out
of fear of Indian prowess. Near the close of the year i860
and before the troops were withdrawn from Fort Buchanan,
an event happened which greatly aggravated the atrocities
of the Indian war which swept over the Territory of Ari
zona until 1872. The events leading up to this war, have
not been published as far as the author is aware, in any
work giving a history of those times, and were about as
follows :
There lived upon the Sonoite, some distance below the
Post of Buchanan, at that time, an Irishman, known as
Johnny Ward, who had a Mexican woman as housekeeper.
This woman had a son, at that time a small boy, whose
paternal ancestor was an Apache Indian, as the mother had
been a captive among them and the boy was a result of this
captivity. In the absence of Mr. Ward the mountain
Apaches, as it was afterwards ascertained, visited the ranch
and packed off everything of value to them, including the
boy. The mother they did not take along or kill, they had
not then got to killing unarmed people as they did a little
later, and, perhaps, she was looked upon as too old to be
worth taking off, at any rate she was not taken. When
Ward returned to his ranch and found the Apaches had
visited the place and taken the boy, he at once proceeded
to Fort Buchanan some twelve miles distant, and reported
what had been done and asked that steps be at once taken
to recover the woman's boy.
The commanding officer of the fort sent out a new
lieutenant named Bascom, accompanied by twelve men
under Reuben F. Bernard, then sergeant, who after
wards became a captain in the First Cavalry, and was
retired a few years since as lieutenant-colonel of the
Ninth Cavalry, with orders to proceed to Apache Pass
in the Chiricahua Range of mountains, that being an
overland stage station, where he would likely find Indians

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 27
who could give some information regarding the lost
boy and what band of Indians had committed the
depredation. The lieutenant, who was not long out from
West Point, upon arriving at the station with his party
found there Chief Cochise and another Indian. Cochise
professed entire ignorance of the depredation or what band
of Apaches had committed it, but said he would find out
and see that the boy was returned. This explanation and
promise did not satisfy Lieutenant Bascom and he at once
made prisoners of the two Indians and he, with his com
mand, proceeded about two miles from the station to near
the mouth of the Apache Pass canon on the northern or
San Simon side, and there pitched camp giving his two
captives a Sibley tent to themselves, stationing a guard in
front and rear of the tent but with unloaded muskets.
Cochise, not relishing the confinement, and not having com
mitted any hostile act was looking for an avenue of escape,
and as he had been left his sheath knife, which every In
dian carries in his belt, he slashed a long cut in the tent and
darted through, followed by his fellow-prisoner. The
guard in the rear of the tent struck Cochise with his gun
and knocked him down, but Cochise, having the agility of
a cat, arose and upon his hands and feet slid off like a flash
into the bushes and among the rocks, and in a moment was
gone beyond hope of pursuit; the other Indian was se
cured. Lieutenant Bascom with his command and remain
ing prisoner returned to the station in the Apache Pass
where he found there more Indians and took them into
custody also. The next day the stationkeeper named Wal
lace, who spoke the Apache language fluently and had
always been on friendly terms with those Indians, thought
by his influence he could arrange matters and make peace
and in this confidence ventured too near or too far among
the hills surrounding the station and the Indians made him
a prisoner but did not put him to death at that time. In
the course of the day two more Indians came in who had

28 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
been on a stealing expedition into Sonora and they, also,
were made prisoners by Lieutenant Bascom. About 4 p. m.,
of the same day, Cochise, in full war paint and mounted,
appeared upon the hill within gunshot of the station and
with an imperial haughtiness demanded that the Indian pris
oners be set at liberty, and stated that those he held would
be liberated and sent in as he had captured three Ameri
cans, besides Wallace. This was done through Wallace,
who acted as interpreter, and who begged that it be ac
cepted as he stated they would be all killed were it re
jected. Lieutenant Bascom would not accede to the propo
sition and the Indians disappeared from the vicinity of the
station, at least their hailing cries were no longer heard.
During the night another Indian, who turned out to be a
half brother of Cochise, came in from Sonora, and he was
made prisoner by the orders of Lieutenant Bascom, who
now had seven prisoners. The next morning no Indian
signals ; no Indians were to be seen. The command of Lieu
tenant Bascom, with the seven prisoners, started to return
to Fort Buchanan. Upon reaching the mouth of the Apache
Pass, some three miles west from the station, where it
opens out into Sulphur Spring Valley, on the side of the
road were the bodies of four Americans, and that of Wal
lace was one of them, showing how clearly he had under
stood matters the night before. Lieutenant Bascom halted
his command; about one hundred yards north of the road,
an oak tree, which is yet standing, was selected, trimmed
up to suit the purpose, and without ceremony the seven
Indian prisoners were hanged and the command proceeded
on to Fort Buchanan. It is but justice here to state that
Sergeant Reuben F. Bernard refused to have anything to
do in the proceedings and was placed in arrest by the lieu
tenant, but released by the commanding officer at Fort Bu
chanan upon investigation. This was the commencement
of one of the most lengthy and cruel Indian wars that have

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 29
ever broken out in this country, and it could have been en
tirely obviated had an officer of judgment and discretion
been in command. The captive boy was never recovered,
but was adopted into the White Mountain Apache Indian
Tribe, and became in after years known as "Mickie Free,"
the worst Indian of a bad lot. From this failure of Lieu
tenant Bascom to retain Cochise, the war was carried on in
Apache style and with relentless vigor. Small parties trav
eling through the country were ambushed and ruthlessly
murdered; lone ranches were attacked and all killed ex
cept young women and children, who were reserved for a
fate, in comparison to which death would be a kindness.
Outlying settlements were broken up and terror ruled the
country. Arizona was reduced, the greater part of it, to
its original wild state; only a few inhabitants remaining at
Tucson, Tubac and some of the mines. A few hardy ranch
men like Peter Kitchen, King S. Wolsey, Max Grinell and
one or two more, made fortifications of their residences and
braved it out, attacked every few days and, perhaps, en
joyed the fierce excitement of battles. Surely the Indians
were causing every trace of civilization to disappear from
Arizona and northern Sonora.
In 1862 the California Volunteers, known as the Cali
fornia Column, came in but their business was to drive out
the Confederates who had come into New Mexico in force,
and, through weakness, or worse, of the Federal commander
at Fort Fillmore on the Rio Grande, some eight miles from
Mesilla, occupied all southern New Mexico except Fort
Craig. One troop of cavalry under a Captain Hunter got
as far west as Tucson in February, 1862, and only with
drew as the column was approaching in force falling back
upon their main body at Mesilla, New Mexico. The in
structions given the troops of the column were, not to fire
upon Indians unless fired upon by them : a forbearance of

30 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
which the Apache Indians were not slow to take advan
tage; however, the Confederates soon abandoned the Ter
ritory of New Mexico, and from that time until the vol
unteer troops from California were discharged or taken
from the Territory to be discharged, good service was
done against the Indians, now more formidable than ever,
as, early in 1863, Mangus Colorado, (Red Arm), an able
chief of the Hot Springs or Miembres Indians, was killed
at or near old Fort McLain in New Mexico, in a manner
that might be considered most treacherous — he was invited
in under the pretext of making a treaty and deliberately
killed while under the protection of a military guard and
by them. Upon the death of Mangus Colorado, Cochise,
being a near relative, succeeded to the absolute command
of all these fierce tribes, who considered they had personal
grievances against the white race to avenge, and for the
succeeding nine years exercised over Arizona and New
Mexico in the United States, Chihuahua and Sonora, in
Mexico, such a reign of terror as rendered it unsafe any
where outside of a military garrison or in the larger towns;
all trains with stores and supplies traveled with military
escorts ; also stages with the United States mail and even
they were frequently attacked, men killed and animals ran
off. After the California Volunteers were withdrawn from
the Territory and their places supplied by regulars in 1866,
and for some years, the commanders, though personally
brave men in regular warfare did not seem to understand
how to organize expeditions against an enemy always
hiding and who never made an attack except from ambush.
Subordinate officers made dashing expeditions and in a
few instances succeeded in punishing the Indians, as wit
ness some expeditions of Captain Reuben F. Bernard, Cap
tain Gerald Russell, Lieutenant Winters, Lieutenant Cush-
ing, Captain Smith, Captain Tidball, Major Sanford and
some others, but until General George Crook, in 1871,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 31
came to the command no thoroughly organized expedition
against the Apache Indians was carried out.
To show the indifference of some of the officers of the
army, who have commanded here, to the sufferings of the
people at the hands of these human fiends, General George
Stoneman was heard by the author to declare that the news
of any Indian outrage should be suppressed and that it was
not the business of the army to pursue depredating Indians,
but that such pursuit should be left to the civil authorities.
With officers in high command, holding such views, what
wonder that the army was inefficient or the people restless
and dissatisfied.
After great suffering and much loss, both of life and
property, and many fruitless endeavors to enlist the general
government in their behalf, the citizens were driven to
desperation and in 1871 an event took place that compelled
the general government to take notice of these outrages and
to take these Indians under her immediate control, viz.,
what has since been known as the Camp Grant Massacre,
April 30, 1 87 1.
The circumstances that immediately led up to the on
slaught upon these Indians may be worthy of a place in
these records and they will be related as succinctly as pos
sible. About the month of February, 1871, the band of
Apache Indians known as Aravaipa or Pinal Apaches be
ing short of rations came into what is now known as old
Camp Grant, situated upon the lower San Pedro upon the
eastern bank about fifteen miles above its point of junction
with the Gila River, then occupied as a military station, and
made a sort of verbal treaty whereby they were to be sup
plied with rations and were to live in the vicinity of the
camp. It was expected by the people, generally, that In
dian depredations around Tucson and San Pedro would
now cease, but on the contrary, the Indians were more ac
tive than ever and the trail of the depredators led to the
Indian camp in the vicinity of old Camp Grant whenever

32 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
followed. When these facts became known a number of
public meetings were held in Tucson, resolutions were
passed; petitions were sent to military headquarters, then
at Los Angeles, California, setting forth facts in the case,
but all resulted in no action being taken by those in au
thority to stop the outrages. Parties were attacked, robbed
and killed upon the traveled roads, and ranchmen were
driven from their ranches into the towns in all directions ;
stock was driven off from near Tres Alamos, upon the San
Pedro River, and four men killed; a man named Wooster
and his wife, from the upper Santa Cruz, near Tubac, were
killed and the trails led direct to the Indian rancheria
near old Camp Grant in the canon of the Aravaipa. To
settle the matter past all dispute a party of three Papago
Indians were hired to follow each trail of depredators and
find where they led, without its having been explained to
them why this was wished to be ascertained. Three dif
ferent trails of depredators were followed and three re
ports made and all agreed that the trails led to the Aravaipa
Canon, where this Indian encampment was, drawing ra
tions from the United States and using it as a base of sup
plies to depredate upon the peaceful citizens of the sur
rounding country. It was claimed and the question was
ably argued to be the duty of the United States to protect
the citizens pursuing their lawful avocations to make a liv
ing, but the Government though repeatedly solicited,
seemed to turn a deaf ear and some of her arrogant and
selfish officers even went so far as to say if the citizens
could not protect themselves here they best go where they
could do so.
So this expedition to exterminate, as nearly as possible,
this nest of vipers whom the United States Government was
unwittingly nourishing was in silence organized, the thinking
ones well understanding that if it was made at all, it really
should be upon those who had them in charge and guarded

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 33
them so loosely. The expedition consisted of some fifty Pa-
pago Indians under their head war chief, forty-five Mexi
cans and five Americans ; and was entirely successful com
ing upon their camp just at break of day, Sunday, April
30, 1 87 1, an entire surprise, slight, if any resistance, was
made. Some eighty-seven Indians were killed and not a
man of the expedition even wounded.
If any doubts had existed in the minds of any persons
as to the fact of these Indians having been committing the
recent depredations, as charged, upon the inhabitants while
living under the protection of the United States military
authorities at Camp Grant, it was now set at rest as among
the plunder of their camp was found the dress of murdered
Mrs. Wooster and a pair of long legged moccasins with Mr.
Wooster's initials upon them, and identified by sworn testi
mony, also, seven horses recently taken from the vicinity
of Tucson and among the rest, one that was identified as
belonging to Don Leopoldo Carillo, so recently taken that he
had not missed it. This killing of Indians made a great
commotion in the Eastern States and General W. T. Sher
man, then commanding the army, recommended that all the
parties engaged in the affair be taken from the Territory
and tried for their lives. Of course General Sherman
knew nothing of the depredations these Indians had been
continually making upon the settlers, all this had been sed
ulously kept from him, and he had nothing to guide him
but the one-sided lying reports of Lieutenant Whitman,
who had these Indians directly in charge. All the partici
pants in the Camp Grant affair were finally arrested and
tried in our Territorial Court, Judge Titus, presiding, and
acquitted as no jury at that time in Arizona would convict
parties for killing Indians known to be hostile. This kill
ing of Indians at Camp Grant, whether strictly in accord
ance with law or not, led to the sending of General George
Crook here to command and he arrived in the Territory
in the month of June, 1871.

34 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
One Vincent Collier, an agent of the ultraphilanthro-
pists of the East was sent out soon after to try the sooth
ing method upon the hostile Indians, but all the visible ef
fects his negotiations seemed to have was to delay the
movements of General Crook, who finally, with troops and
scouts, had to settle the question by punishing the Indians
until they humbly begged to be allowed to come in upon
reservations. In this way, step by step, a few at a time, as they became
tired of being hunted from one watering place to another,
and after many failures and outbreaks, the Indians were
gathered upon reserves but the well meaning but mis
guided philanthropists have always to be counted upon as
a counteracting influence that is on the Indian's side
throughout all our Indian troubles. In 1872 General O.
O. Howard was sent out from Washington and made peace
with Cochise, but this only embraced the original Chiri
cahua Apaches, and two or three small bands of others
who were inclined to embrace the opportunity of living
upon a reservation and being fed at the expense of the
United States. The reserve upon which these Indians were
placed was known as the "Chiricahua Reservation," and
embraced the larger share of what is now Cochise County.
The terms of the treaty between General Howard and
Cochise were peculiar in this respect, that while Cochise
and the Indians over whom he exercised jurisdiction were
bound by its terms to keep the peace and commit no dep
redations in the United States, nothing was said in re
gard to Mexico, and from this reservation, parties were
continually going into the neighboring Mexican States of
Sonora and Chihuahua and even farther into Mexico and
committing all kinds of depredations of which the Mexi
can Government justly complained. Permission was given
our Government for its troops to pursue hostile bands of
Indians into Mexican territory, and for a short time such
a privilege was likewise accorded to Mexico, but the writer

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 35
can find only one instance where it was taken advantage
of and the privilege on the part of the United States was
soon withdrawn as it was on the part of Mexico. How
ever, in 1876, a portion of the Indians upon the Chiricahua
Reservation broke out and committed several murders,
starting in with the killing of Rodgers and Spence at Sul
phur Springs, and this disturbance led to the breaking
up of the Chiricahua Reservation, and the removal to San
Carlos of all the Indians that could be induced to leave.
Those who would or did not go, took to the mountains
under Jeronimo and Hoo and for several years by their
lawless acts of atrocity terrorized over southeastern Ari
zona, southwestern New Mexico and northern Mexico.
Arizona was settled through many privations and much
slaughter. The advancing tide of civilization has borne in
its front a windrow of human bones. A large part of the
most venturous and hardy of the advance guard of pio
neers were sacrificed to the ruthless spirit of the savage
by the tender hearted and self-styled philanthropists of the
older communities of the United States, who could sympa
thize with the savage, but had no feeling for the suffer
ings of their own race. There seems to have been, from
the time of the first settlements along the shores of the
Atlantic up to the last upon the coasts of the Pacific, a
great sympathy for the "poor Indian" among those who
did not come in personal contact with him.
The savage man has ever been misjudged by civilized
races until they have come in personal contact with him,
then as a general thing the civilized or partially civilized
man goes as far the other way and judges the savage man
not to be capable of improvement, but wholly corrupt.
The fact seems to be that all savages are but children in
intellect, but not in innocence.
It has been found necessary to use force to bring sav
age nature into the ways of civilization and many times
this force has been used in all the brutality characteristic

36 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
of savage warfare. Had the United States announced the
declared policy of extermination to the Indian race, and
carried it out, they could not have more directly reached
the end in view, than by the vacillating, halting policy
that has been pursued, in its results cruel to both races.
Troubles with the Apache Indian for a long time kept
the bulk of immigration from Arizona ; turning it aside
to other and more peaceful fields, and although organized
as a Territory many years, yet in population she seems to
lag behind later Territorial organizations.

CHAPTER II
Exploring Expeditions. — Territorial Organization and
Government. — Governmental Surveys. — Emigration.
The name Arizona is of doubtful origin and has been
given by different writers to mean various things, more
or less fanciful. One has it "silver bearing," and becomes
poetical over it, another has it to mean a "dry zone," etc.
The probability seems to be that it is a whole sentence in
the Papago language and really means, to give it a liberal
interpretation, "a place where the innocent children were
tormented and slaughtered," from "ari," children, "zona,"
where scourged and slaughtered.
In 1695, or about that time, in the vicinity of Tubutama,
now Sonora, a Lieutenant Solis of the Spanish army
committed and ordered committed some great atrocities,
punishing the innocent for acts of the guilty; among the
acts putting to death at one time fifty who had come in
as peaceful. After this, as great numbers of children
had been butchered, the Indians, especially the squaws,
upon coming into that vicinity kept repeating, "Ari-zona,
Ari-zona" (this is the slaughter ground), until it was
designated and known by that name, and it gradually
spread and has named this Territory, and wrongfully per
petuates the infamous acts of a subaltern of the Spanish
army of occupation.
The first European that set foot within what is now
Arizona is believed to have been an Arabian negro slave,
known as Estevancio, a man of gigantic stature and her
culean personal strength, who, with his master, belonged
to the Coronado expedition of 1540 in search of the seven
cities of Cibola. Estevancio was continually roaming
37

38 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
ahead of the command and crossed over the Colorado
River, above where Yuma now is, and thus became the
first human, except Indians in Arizona. On the return
of this exploring army of Coronado one of his captains
discovered the Grand Canon of the Colorado that prob
ably was not looked into again for another century. The
name of this lieutenant of Coronado was Cardenas, and
he was styled "Maestro de Campo," in the place of one
Samaniego, whom he succeeded. Estevancio, the slave,
the first of the expedition to set foot upon Arizona soil,
never returned, but was killed by the Moqui Indians as a
witch, he being far in advance of the expedition. The
claim was that he bewitched and killed their women. The
probability is that this brave, bold man lost his life through
jealousy of the Indians of his mental and physical quali
fications. Many of the exploring expeditions of these early days
seem to have been led by Catholic priests, in their zeal
anxious for the spreading of Christianity, but the lasting
effect was to make known to the nations of savages the
emblem of the cross. Some of these expeditions to the
north were to discover a fancied strait through the con
tinent, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, even
some old maps of the sixteenth century show this strait,
and the first explorers of Hudson Bay thought they had
struck upon it. The continent of North America had to
be explored on both oceans before this idea of a short pas
sage to India through it was abandoned, and then attempts
were made for two centuries, and many valuable lives lost,
in attempting to get around the north end of the North
American continent by what has been known as the "north
west passage." A route has finally been found, but it is
not practicable, as it is generally blocked up with ice. In
1520 Magellan was the first to circumnavigate the globe,
or rather the first who had the daring and hardihood to
attempt it. His proposition was to sail west continually

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 39
from the starting point (Cadiz, in Spain), and eventually
come round to the same point. The voyage was accom-
' plished by the good ship San Vittoria, though Magellan
did not live to return. He was killed by the savages on the
Ladrone Islands in the vast Pacific. He discovered the
straits near the south end of South America, and named
them "San Vittoria" after his staunch ship, but a grateful
posterity has insisted on calling those straits by the name
of their discoverer, so, till the end of time his name will be
handed down, by the straits that bear his name.
It was left for a man named McClure to finally dem
onstrate, in 1852, that there was a northwest passage
through a narrow waterway among islands north of the
main land of the continent of North America, but it was
too much among the snow and ice of that high latitude
to be of any value.
The Spaniards of the sixteenth, seventeenth and eigh
teenth centuries appear to have been the most adventurous
and enterprising of any of the nations of Europe, though
they colonized their vast possessions, obtained by conquest
during these centuries, but slowly, and it would seem but
little attempt was made to colonize. Could the inhabitants,
not only of Spain but of all Europe, have been made to
comprehend the great possibilities for the downtrodden
and oppressed peoples to better their condition in life in
the Americas, they would have emigrated in a body from
those king and priest-ridden shores to the new land of
promise. The Spanish possessions upon the western con
tinent were at one time very extensive, embracing most
of South America, all of Central America and Mexico,
including what is now Texas and what is known as the
Louisiana Purchase in North America, and adjacent
islands. The adventurous spirits of Spain went out from
her and overran distant and barbarous nations, extermin
ating many, to spread the knowledge of the Christian re
ligion and to gather gold to be spent in Spain. Spain had

40 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
occupied, and, to a considerable extent, explored her vast
possessions before France or England became really alive
to the importance of the Americas and made permanent
settlements in the new world, as it was called.
The French for a time exhibited a greater, energy in the
matter of colonizing their new possessions than the Eng
lish, and their colonies seemed to be firmly bound by con
sanguinity to the parent country. England did not take
much interest in the first settlements within what is now
the United States. Only after they had fought their way,
cut down the forests, subdued the aborigines in a measure
and became productive and able to protect themselves, did
the English government manifest interest in the Ameri
can possessions, and then she became interested enough to
be willing to extend the British flag over the colonies and
claim the right of taxation without representation, which
caused much dissatisfaction in the colonies, and on that
issue the War of the Revolution was fought to the bitter
end. The Jesuits were the first to carry the emblem of the
Christian religion, the cross of Christ, into these newly dis
covered lands supported by the armed power of Spain.
When the Society of Jesus was finally abandoned or
abolished by Pope Clement XIV., in the eighteenth century,
the Order of Franciscans came in, but it may be considered
a matter of doubt whether they succeeded as well in con
trolling the red man as the expelled society had done; but
Spain, ever faithful to the commands of the Pope, saw that
through the whole extent of her vast possessions the priests
of the society ceased to exercise their priestly functions.
The Jesuits were not restored to their functions as priests
until the pontificate of Pius IX., late in the nineteenth cen
tury, and within the memory of living men.
After the Gadsden Purchase, several efforts were made
by different statesmen in the Senate and House of Repre
sentatives to have a Territorial organization for Arizona.
Several efforts were made within the Territory by the few

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 41
citizens within, its boundaries, but without success. The
first attempt of this kind was in 1856, soon after the United
States, by having troops stationed at different points, had
formally taken possession of the then new purchase. A
mass meeting was called at Tucson, August 29, 1856, as
Tucson was then, as it has remained since, the important
point in Arizona. At that time there were no settlements
north of the Gila River. One Nathan P. Cook, was
chosen as delegate to Washington, he was not admitted to
a seat, but his mission was brought to the attention of the
House of Representatives in 1857, and referred to the Ter
ritorial Committee, who reported adversely to allowing a
Territorial Government, on account of the sparse popula
tion, but acknowledged the unfortunate condition of the
people without any recognized government and recommend
ing a bill be passed organizing a judicial district south of
the Gila River; to appoint a surveyor-general and to pro
vide for representation at Santa Fe, New Mexico, as well
as for the registration of land claims and mining titles.
Such a bill was passed by the United States Senate in Feb
ruary, 1857, but was not reached in the House of Repre
sentatives before final adjournment. President Buchanan,
in his message of 1857, recommended a Territorial Gov
ernment. Senator Gwin in December, 1857, introduced a
bill to organize such a government for the Gadsden Pur
chase under the name of Arizona. The legislature of
New Mexico in February, 1858, passed resolutions in favor
of the measure, but recommended a boundary line north
and south on the meridian of 1090 west from Greenwich,
also the removal of all New Mexican Indians to northern
Arizona. Several petitions from various people and from
different States were received favoring the organization
of Arizona into a separate Territory. In an election held
at Tucson, September, 1857, the people had gotten up a
new petition and chosen Sylvester Mowry as Delegate to
Congress. Mowry was not admitted to a seat in Congress

42 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
as Delegate from Arizona, nor did the bill of Senator
Gwin for a Territorial organization pass. The bill of Sena
tor Gwin did not include all of what was finally settled
upon as Arizona, but only went north to 33 ° 45', and in
cluded all southern New Mexico up to that parallel through
to the western line of Texas. Mowry got out a map in
i860 of this "Arizona," dividing it into four counties, but
not attaching to them generally the names by which they
are now designated. On the west, about what is Yuma
County, was called "Castle Dome" County; then came
"Ewell" County, now Pima, which extended east to the
western base of the Chiricahua Range of mountains at
Apache Pass. Mesilla County extended eastward to the
Rio Grande and Donna Ana County from the Rio Grande
eastward to the line of Texas. The remainder of what is
now embraced in Arizona, north of 330 45', was left to
New Mexico; being at that time inhabited by the wild
Indians. Sylvester Mowry was elected delegate to the United States
Congress and Congress memorialized in 1858-1859, but with
no success as far as Territorial organization is concerned. In
i860 a self-styled constitutional convention met in Tucson,
which held session from April 2 to 5, inclusive; composed
of thirty-one delegates, who proceeded to "ordain and estab
lish a provisional constitution to remain in force until
Congress shall organize a Territorial Government and no
longer." This convention chose a governor in the person
of Dr. L. S. Owings, of Mesilla; three judicial districts
were created. Judges were to be appointed by the Gov
ernor as were also a lieutenant-governor, attorney-general
and some other officials. A legislature, consisting of nine
senators and eighteen representatives, was to be elected
and convened upon the proclamation of the Governor. Steps
were to be taken for organizing the militia, and an elec
tion for county officers was called for May. The general

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 43
laws and codes of New Mexico were adopted, and the rec
ords of the convention, schedule, constitution, and Gov
ernor's inaugural address were printed at Tucson in what
was, so far as is known, the first book ever published in
Arizona. The Governor's appointments, under this provisional
regime, were as follows: Lieutenant-Governor, Ignacio
Orantia; Secretary of State, James A. Lucas; Controller,
J. H. Wells; Treasurer, Mark Aldrich; Marshal, Samuel
G. Bean ; District Judges, Granville H. Oury (chief jus
tice) ; Samuel H. Cozzens and Edward McGowan (as
sociate justices) ; District Attorneys, R. H. Glenn, Rees
Smith, Thomas J. Mastin; Major-General, W. C. Words
worth; Adjutant-General, Valentine Robinson. Nothing
seems to have been done by this self-constituted list of
officials beyond the election of themselves, at least no rec
ords have come to light of their transactions. In Novem
ber of that year one of the associate justices, Edward Mc
Gowan, better known as "Ned" McGowan, of unsavory
fame and record in San Francisco, was elected under the
new regime as delegate from the State of Arizona to the
United States Congress to succeed Mowry, but it does not
appear that he went on to Washington to participate in
National affairs.
Public sentiment in Arizona at this time was largely
with the South in its attempt to set up a separate govern
ment by breaking up the United States, and no secret was
made of the feeling in this respect. Those who still clung
to the old flag had little to say and it was openly asserted,
perhaps, with some shadow of truth, that Arizona's mis
fortunes were in a great measure due to the neglect of the
Federal government, and that this neglect arose from Ari
zona's patriotic devotion to the Southern cause. In 1861,
a self-styled "convention" at Tucson formally declared the
Territory a part of the Southern Confederacy, and in
August of that year Granville H. Oury was elected delegate

44 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
by a small vote to the Southern Congress. Many of the
military officers serving at army posts in the southwest
were of Southern birth and made haste to lay down their
commissions and join the army of the Confederates,
though to their honor be it said the enlisted men of the
United States army, with rare exceptions, remained true
to the government and flag they had sworn to uphold.
Captain R. S. Ewell, who had commanded in Arizona, be
came prominent as a Confederate general. In time of rev
olution the promises and agreements of men became as
unreliable as ropes of sand, and men, too, who in private
life have been above reproach.
One of the associate justices in this provisional govern
ment scheme, Samuel W. Cozzens, published a book on
Arizona, which came out in 1874, called "The Marvellous
Country." From its careful perusal one can hardly avoid
the conclusion that the author was never in what now is
Arizona, but only in that portion along the Rio Grande at
Mesilla, and Donna Ana, which finally fell to New Mexico ;
so his "book" is largely made up of fancied adventures and
descriptions of scenery that are fictitious or taken at sec
ond-hand from descriptions of others. Cozzens' descrip
tion of the country he traversed in company with Cochise, to
visit the stronghold, or residing place of this remarkable In
dian chief, describes such a country as does not exist either
in Arizona or New Mexico, showing it to be a fancy sketch.
To point out some of his inaccuracies as to topography, he
gets to Tucson over the old stage route from the Rio
Grande at Mesilla, without noticing the San Pedro River
or Cienega de Los Pimas, some thirty miles southeast of
Tucson; makes the Miembres River forty miles from Me
silla, when it is a good seventy; passes "Ajode Vaca,"
(Cow Springs), a noted watering place that never dries
up; has Colonel C. D. Poston killed by Indians in 1859,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 45
when the facts are he represented Arizona one term in
Congress since that time and died in Phcenix in 1902, at an
advanced age.
In i860 a Mr. Green, of Missouri, introduced a bill in
the House of Representatives of the Federal Congress to
organize the Territory of Arizona, but this, also, failed.
Several other attempts were made to have Congress grant
a Territorial organization, among others the Governor of
California called attention to the peculiar condition of the
Territory, but with no avail, as the minds of the states
men of that day had already begun to be engrossed with
the absorbing question of slavery that was soon to plunge
the Nation into a war, which, while it lasted was the most
destructive the world has ever known — a war that will go
down through all time as remarkable for the number of its
great battles ; the magnitude of the armies engaged ; the
ability with which vast bodies of troops were handled, and
the importance to the world of the results. For some years
before the final outbreak of the War of the Rebellion the
statesmen of the north and more especially of New Eng
land, looked with a suspicious eye upon any extension of
territory towards the south or southwest ; had this not been
the case the Gadsden Purchase would have included much
more of Mexico than that finally settled upon.
Mr. Gadsden returned to Washington from Mexico with
the skeleton of three treaties, either of which if accepted
by the United States the others were to be of no effect.
These treaties are numbered according to their importance
or size as to acquisition of territory, viz. :
First. From latitude 300 center of the Rio Grande, di
rectly west to the Gulf of California and then including
the whole peninsula of Lower California, at that time
deemed but a barren rock ; all north of line indicated, to
belong to the United States, for which $25,000,000 was to
be paid.

46 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Second. All north of a line from head or most northerly
point of the Gulf of California directly east to the Rio
Grande, which would have been at or near the present city
of El Paso. This would have embraced about the same
extent of territory as the one finally adopted, but with this
point its favor, the United States would have procured a
seaport at the head of the Gulf of California. For this
concession of territory the United States were to pay
Mexico $15,000,000.
-Third. The one agreed upon after much debate gave
to the United States about the same extent of territory as
the second, but afforded no seaport upon the Gulf of Cali
fornia ; for this the United States paid Mexico $10,000,000.
In the discussion of the treaty it was remarked by a
Senator that the United States could have her port of en
try at Yuma; thereby showing himself to be deficient in
information as to the navigation of the Colorado River
from the Gulf of California up to that point. The osten
sible reason given to the country for the necessity of the
Gadsden Purchase was, that the United States required a
feasible country over which to build a railroad upon our
own territory to the Pacific Ocean, as the more northern
routes over which railroads have been since constructed,
were at that time not considered practicable. By this treaty
the United States gained two important points. First, by
Article 11 a release was gained from the responsibility for
outrages committed by Indians from United States terri
tory upon the inhabitants in Mexico; Article 12 of the
treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo being abrogated. Second, by
Article 8 for a railroad to be built across the Isthmus of
Tehuantepec of which no advantage was taken and the
concession lapsed.
A line of stages in connection with weekly steamers
was put in operation in 1858 to run from the head of canoe

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 47
navigation on the Coatzacolcas River, to the city of Tehuan
tepec and the Pacific shore, a distance of about one hun
dred and forty miles; from New Orleans to the town of
Minititlan, upon the Coatzacolcas River, twenty miles above
its mouth on the left bank. From here passengers and the
United States mail were taken in small boats to the head
of canoe navigation, to a place called Suchil, where they
took stages connecting on the Pacific shore, with a small
steamer, which transported them to Acapulco where con
nection was made with the San Francisco and Panama
steamers. This route was abandoned about May, 1859,
as under the management it could not be made remunera
tive, though there is now a railroad across that isthmus,
under the supervision of the Mexican government, which
it is claimed does a fair business.
Explorations and surveys looking to a transcontinental
route for a railroad were made through Arizona as early
as 185 1. During that year the first governmental survey
was made across northern Arizona by Captain L. Sit-
greaves, who had instructions to follow the Zuni, Colorado
Chiquito and Colorado Rivers down to the Gulf of Califor
nia. In September of that year he left the Zuni Villages with
a party of twenty men to execute instructions, but found it
impracticable with the means at his command to follow the
river through the great canons, so turned off to the west
on the 8th of October, crossing the country just north of
the 35" north latitude, being substantially the route trav
eled by Pedro Garcis in 1776, reaching the Mojave region
on the Colorado River, November 5th, and following down
the main river south to where Fort Yuma was later estab
lished, arriving there at the end of November, 1851. The
scarcity of supplies and the poor condition of his animals
did not permit this expedition to accomplish as much as
had been anticipated of it, but the result of this first ex
ploration was an interesting itinerary, and a map of the
route traveled and various scientific reports upon a new

48 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
and intensely interesting region of our country. The en
tire party consisted of Captain L. Sitgreaves, Lieutenant
J. G. Parke, Dr. S. W. Woodhouse, physician and natural
ist; R. H. Kern, draughtsman; Anton Leroux, guide; five
American and ten Mexican packers, etc. ; an escort of thirty
men of the Second Artillery was commanded by Major
H. L. Hendricks. (History of Arizona and New Mexico,
P- 3i-)
The exploration and survey of Captain Sitgreaves was
followed in 1853-54 by the 35° parallel Pacific railroad sur
vey under Lieutenant A. W. Whipple. Lieutenant J. C.
Ives was chief assistant in a corps of twelve, and an escort
of the Seventh Infantry, under Lieutenant John M. Jones.
Lieutenant Whipple, having completed the survey from
Fort Smith, on the Arkansas at the western boundary of
that State, across the Indian Territory and the State of
Texas and across New Mexico, left Zuni Villages on No
vember 23, 1853. The route followed by the Whipple
Expedition was somewhat south for the most of the way
of that gone over by Sitgreaves, though his survey em
braced the same region. Going down the Zuni and Colo
rado Chiquito, the Santa Maria and Bill Williams Fork,
they reached the greater Colorado River in latitude 340 51'
north, and in March continued the survey across the State
of California. The resulting report, as published by the
United States Government, though of similar purport, is
much more elaborate and extensive than the report of Sit
greaves, containing an immense amount of the most valu
able descriptive, geographic and scientific matter on north
ern and central Arizona, extensively illustrated with colored
engravings and maps of great accuracy.
The government of Mexico, having given permission a
little in advance of the confirmation of the Gadsden Treaty
then being considered, a survey for a railroad south of the
then boundary line, Lieutenant John G. Parke and a party
of some thirty men, with an escort of forty men under

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 49
Lieutenant George Stoneman, left San Diego, California,
January 24, 1854, and began a survey at Pima Villages on
the Gila River. This party reached Tucson on the 20th of
February, proceeding thence to the San Pedro River and
eastward a part of the way by a route north of Cooke's
wagon road; then known as Nugent's Trail, coming into
Cooke's wagon road on March 7th, at or near the Miem
bres River and following it to the Rio Grande. Again in
May, 1855, Lieutenant Parke with another fully equipped
party started from San Diego, California, for the Pima
Villages, and by several routes made a more careful sur
vey of that portion of the country stretching eastward
from the Rio San Pedro.*
It is in place here to note that all these surveys made by
government officers through Arizona were made at the sug
gestion and under the orders of Hon. Jefferson Davis,. then
Secretary of War. Even at that day there was no excuse,
at least no well founded excuse among our statesmen for
the utter ignorance shown as to this newly acquired terri
tory. Arizona, notwithstanding the fact that entire and
elaborate reports have been made topographically and other
wise, has been generally, and is yet, considered as com
posed of bare, bald mountains and desolate plains of wind
swept sand, which changed positions like light snow with
the varying currents of air over these silent wastes. How
different is this generally received opinion of the territory
abroad from the facts of the case. The Territory has riv
ers and valleys equaling the famed valley of the Nile of
Egypt, which, since the dawn of history, has been cele
brated in "song and story," sacred and profane, and for
ests of timber, more extensive in area than many of the
States, and only surpassed upon our globe by the great
tropical forests of Africa and of South America.

* See Parke's Report of Explorations from Pima Villages to the
Rio Grande, 1854-55, in Pacific Railroad Reports.

50 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
After the discovery of gold in 1848 in California, emi
grants in great numbers commenced to cross what is now
southern Arizona from Sonora and other states of Mexico,
and from the southwestern parts of the United States as
well. The routes followed by the stream of Mexican
emigration were either to strike the Santa Cruz River near
where the boundary line now is, and follow that stream
down to Tucson and the old wagon road to Yuma, or to
go. through the Papagoria, striking the Colorado River and
crossing it at Yuma. Those emigrants from the States
who struck the Rio Grande at various points in New
Mexico and Texas, concentrated largely at Donna Ana in
the county of that name, crossed the Rio Grande at what is
yet known as California, crossing some miles above Donna
Ana, and struck west for Cook's Pass following General
Philip St. George, Cook's wagon road of 1846, on to the
headwaters of the Santa Cruz River and down it to Tuc
son and so into the Colorado at Yuma. These different
streams of gold-searchers all met at this crossing of the great
Colorado at Yuma and at once made of it an important
point. In these early days before the Gadsden Purchase was
accomplished, from the time the emigrant left the Rio
Grande until he crossed the Colorado at Yuma, he traveled
for about six hundred miles upon Mexican soil, yet to their
credit be it said no depredations were committed, and as
far as could be done with the limited means at their com
mand, protection from hostile Indians was afforded the
emigrant by Mexican officials. After leaving the Colorado
either for San Diego or Los Angeles in California, much
of the way across the great Colorado Desert was still upon
Mexican territory. It was a journey of much hardship,
as well as perils from hostile Indians, though, perhaps, not
more so than other routes at that time. The experiences
of those who joined in the great race for gold in any of
the processions of emigrants crossing the plains in those

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 51
days, would supply material for many a fascinating volume.
There are but few diaries extant and fewer still of the
thousands that traveled over these routes thought of such
things as diaries, their attention was wholly engrossed with
the duties of the hour, and the feverish anxiety to get on,
— to reach this new El Dorado before its precious treasures
had been gathered in by those in advance.

CHAPTER III
The Oatman Tragedy. — Early Means of Transporta
tion. — Establishment of Military Stations. — Scien
tific Explorers. — Crabb Massacre.
Both exploring and emigrant parties occasionally had
trouble with the Apache Indians, who could not resist the
temptation to steal animals or to attack weak parties and
kill them if out of all danger of detection and punishment.
Their chief animosity seemed to be against Mexicans, and
they often professed friendship for Americans and even
aided them on their way, but expected to be well compen
sated. Large, well armed parties, who exercised due dili
gence in traveling through the Apache land, were not in
terfered with, but companies that were confident and care
less or small, learned there were hostile Indians in the
country. After 1854 the depredations of these hostiles
seemed to increase. The most noted, or at least best re
corded, of these Apache outrages before that date, was the
massacre in 1851 of the Oatman family, which occurred
upon the Gila River route, some one hundred miles east of
Yuma, upon a steep hill on the western side of a small
valley, since known as "Oatman Flat," and where the bodies
of the murdered family are buried. As far as is possible
this work will endeavor to present a succinct history of the
sad affair.
Roys Oatman and his wife, together with seven children,
left Independence, Missouri, in August, 1850, with a party
of some fifty other emigrants bound for California, "The
Land of Gold." When their band arrived at Tucson a
large portion of them concluded to stop for a time, at least,
52

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 53
until their jaded animals could be recruited. The re
mainder of the band went on to Pima Villages, where all
except the Oatmans concluded to halt for a time with the
hospitable and friendly Pima Indians. Unfortunately for
themselves, the Oatmans at once pushed forward, it being
now February, 185 1.
On February 15th the Oatman team was passed by John
Le Count, by whom Mr. Oatman sent a letter to the com
manding officer of Fort Yuma, who at that time was Major
Heintzelman, asking aid. Three days later, February 18th,
while under way, they were visited by a party of Indians
who appeared to be friendly and helped push the wagon
up the steep' hill before mentioned. The Indians were given
tobacco and some trinkets and seemed satisfied, but
without warning they commenced their murderous attack
upon the iamily, killing father, mother and four children,
leaving the son, a boy of fourteen years, named Lorenzo,
stunned, presumed by them to be dead. They threw his
body over a bluff, at least twenty feet, and carried off as
captives the two daughters, Olive, aged sixteen and Mary
Ann, aged ten years. This outrage was attributed to the
Tonto Apaches, though it has never been ascertained who
the miscreants really were; these murders have never been
avenged. Lorenzo Oatman, the boy, recovered from his
stupor and after great suffering, at last succeeded in get
ting back to the Pima Villages, and went on with the other
families to Fort Yuma and finally to San Francisco.
The post-commander at Yuma on receipt of the letter sent
by Mr. Oatman, despatched two men with supplies, but on
learning of the massacre did not feel at liberty to pursue
the savages, as the depredation had been committed upon
Mexican territory, and .Mexican authorities might protest
against any armed party of another nation coming within
their jurisdiction. By whatever Indians the outrage was
committed, the captives were found in the hands of the
Mojaves, who claimed to have purchased them from a band

54 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
of Tontos. The younger, Mary Ann, after a few years
of most degrading slavery, died in captivity. The elder,
Olive, was kept as a slave and captive until 1857, when
she was ransomed through the strenuous exertions of Mr.
Grinnell and brought to Fort Yuma, where she joined her
brother, Alonzo, and the two soon went to New York. Be
ing considered a war captive and under the jurisdiction of
a man whose word was law and whose power might mean
death, her sufferings were intense, yet strange to say the
most vindictive treatment she received was from her own
sex, and more than once during her captivity she would
have been sacrificed to the envious rage of the; squaws had
not her more humane master interfered. Once in particular
the squaws had firmly bound her to a tree and surrounded
her with pine fagots piled high and about to ignite this
combustible material, when her master discovered the situa
tion and with a howl of execration and a slash of his keen
knife released her from her perilous position. After that
episode the chief never trusted her to the ferocious "kind
ness" of the squaws, but kept her near him.*-
The crossing of the Colorado River by all emigrants
who entered California by the southern route at Yuma,
made that point for the time being one of the most import
ant business points in the country, as it has been estimated
that for the year 185 1 some 60,000 people crossed into Cali
fornia, probably an exaggeration, still it was a very import
ant point, and the numbers crowding into the new El Do
rado were very large and continued its importance for
several years.
The Yuma Indians were not hostile though they required
constant watching to keep them from stealing all animals
that should inadvertently be left within their reach, and the
different tribes along the Colorado and Gila Rivers were

* See Straton's Captivity of the Oatman Girls.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 55
constantly at war; plundering each other and making pris
oners of each other's women. The Yuma Indians fre
quently rendered valuable aid to bodies of emigrants in
crossing the river, and required a fair remuneration, but
were not extravagant in charges. They established a ferry
of their own across the Colorado (a little below where the
railroad bridge now is), and had in charge of the boat a
white man, said by some to be a deserter from the United
States army ; this could hardly have been the case with -the
military post of Yuma so close, be that as it may, there
was an opposition ferry established by one John Glanton,
sometimes known as "Doctor," who originally came from
Tennessee at the head of some thirty of as precious and as
select a gang of desperadoes as the world ever saw together
outside a pirate ship. After committing many high
handed extortions and many murders and robberies, which
they laid upon the Indians, one night they made a descent
upon the Indian ferry killing the white man in charge and
two Indians, and destroying the ferry boat. After this out
rage upon the Indians not an Indian was to be seen, un
til one morning just at break of day they gathered in upon
the Glanton party in battle array and exterminated the
whole party with the exception of one boy whom the
avengers did not wish to kill, or who may have shown them
some kindness, for which he was allowed to escape. The
acts of brutality committed by this Glanton band are al
most too outrageous for belief, but were passed over with
little comment in the whirl of events, until they had aroused
the hatred of the Yuma Indians, who executed upon them
savage justice. Glanton, some years before had been
released from the Tennessee penitentiary through the in
tercession of some influential friends who had known him
in younger years, when he gave promise of becoming a use
ful man ; but he had chosen the evil side ; had been a mem
ber of the "John A. Murrill" band of outlaws, who in
fested the lower Mississippi Valley along in the '30's and

56 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
early '40's of the nineteenth century, and for which he was
sent to the penitentiary, but was past reformation as he
did not wish to reform.
In November, 1849, there arrived at Yuma, the mouth
of the Gila River, a flatboat which had made the voyage
down the Gila River from the Pima Villages with a Mr.
Howard and family and two men, a doctor and a clergy
man on board. During this trip down the river, a son was
born to Mrs. Howard, undoubtedly the first child of
American parents born within the limits of Arizona, i. e., as
we understand the term "American," as all born upon the
western continent are "Americans," and the Indian above
all, as far as any evidence we have to the contrary may go.
He is indigenous to this continent, he sprang from the soil.
This child was named "Gila," after the river upon which
it was born and a few years ago was living in Lake County,
California. *
A little later in the year another company composed of
L. J. F. Jaeger and Hartshorne, established a ferry at
Yuma across the Colorado River, hauling lumber from San
Diego, across the desert, suitable for the construction of a
good sized, strong, ferry boat and continued the business
with profit for over a year, at least Jaeger did.
On November 27, 1850, Major Heintzelman of the
United States army arrived from San Diego, California,
at the junction of the Gila and Colorado Rivers for the
purpose of establishing a garrison of strength to protect
the great stream of emigration then rolling into California
by this avenue, as all the southern emigration was crossing
the Colorado River at this point. This post was first called
"Camp Independence," but in March, 1851, was transferred
to the site of the old Spanish mission upon the rising
ground on the California side of the Colorado River and
soon was named "Fort Yuma." There was considerable
* See Diary of Lieutenant Cave J. Coutts.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 57
trouble about getting supplies, but the Indians were not
hostile, and in June the fort was left in charge of Lieutenant
L. W. Sweeney with ten men. It might have been that the
Yuma Indians seeing the weakness of the garrison were
emboldened to commit depredations, at least they soon be
came troublesome; killed some emigrants and even at
tacked the post; scurvy made its appearance among the
troops and the supplies were exhausted. A Captain David
son took command in November; in December, post and
ferry were abandoned.
Fort Yuma seems to have been unoccupied from De
cember, 185 1, to February, 1852, when Major Heintzelman
returned to rebuild the fort and permanently re-establish
the garrison. Indian hostilities, mostly on the California
side of the Colorado, continued until late in that year when
a treaty was made, still the Cocopas and Yumas would oc
casionally, among themselves, have a war dance. Fort
Yuma was upon the western bank of the Colorado River,
on the Arizona side of the same stream,' there was no per
manent settlement until 1854. Temporary structures were
erected at different times, but either were washed away by
high water of the river or taken away for other more profit
able purposes, at least those that were deemed so to be. In
1854 a store building was erected and a townsite called
"Colorado City," was laid out in Arizona, upon the eastern
bank of the Colorado River, just below where the Gila and
Colorado unite, but in 1861 there was but a building or two
and these were washed away by the floods of water com
ing down the Colorado in the winter of 1861-62, so the
growth of a town later called "Arizona City," and finally
"Yuma" seems really not to have been commenced in
earnest until about 1864.
When Major Heintzelman was ordered to establish a
military post at Yuma, an exploration of the Colorado
River was ordered to determine the practicability of the

58 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
river being utilized for transportation of supplies. Lieu
tenant George H. Derby, later famous as a humorous
writer, known by the signature of "John Phcenix,"
was in charge of the party and sailed from San Francisco,
November i, 1850, on the schooner Invincible, Captain A.
H. Wilcox. The month of January, 1851, was spent in
the Colorado River, up which the schooner, drawing eight
or nine feet of water, could ascend only some twenty-five
miles to north latitude 300 51', but in his boat Derby went
sixty miles further up the river, meeting the commanding
officer, Major Heintzelman, and a party from Yuma.
In the spring of 1851 George A. Johnson arrived at
the mouth of the Colorado River on the steamer Sierra Ne
vada, with supplies for the garrison at Yuma, and lumber
for the building of flatboats to be used for the purpose of
bringing supplies, etc., up the Colorado River from the
ocean-going streams which could come up the Gulf of
California to the river's mouth, but could not get up the
river on account of their requiring deeper water to float in
than prevailed in the Colorado, except in time of floods,
which were too infrequent and irregular to be depended
upon. In 1852 Captain Turnbull brought the first steamer, called
the Uncle Sam, on a schooner to the head of the Gulf of Cali
fornia, where it was put together for the river trip. The
Uncle Sam reached Fort Yuma early in December, but drew
too much water to get up her cargo in the then stage of
water, so took out her loading and left it on the bank some
distance below Yuma, and it was gotten up in flatboats
some days later. After running upon the river for some
eighteen months the Uncle Sam grounded and sank and the
General Jessup, Captain Johnson, was put upon the river,
but exploded the following August. The Colorado, a stern-
wheeler, 120 feet long, was put on the river late in 1855,
and from that time on steam navigation of the River Colo
rado up to Fort Yuma at all times, and higher, if the stage

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 59
of water in the river admitted it, seems to have been con
tinuous. Besides the boundary surveys there have been
several official surveys other than those of prospectors,
trappers and Indian fighters, so the country was pretty well
explored as to its general topography during the decade
from 1850 to i860.
In 1857 Edward F. Beale opened a wagon-road nearly
upon the 35th parallel, following in the main the route of
Whipple and Sitgreaves ; leaving the Zuni Villages in
August and reaching the Colorado River in January, 1858.
The steamer General Jessup was waiting in the Mojave
region to transport this party across the river, but Beale
with twenty men returned on the route explored, thus
demonstrating the practicability of the route for winter
travel. There was another important exploration made
about this time by Lieutenant Joseph C. Ives. Lieutenant
Ives arrived at the head of the Gulf of California in Novem
ber, 1857, on a schooner from San Francisco, which brought
an iron stern-wheel steamer, built in Philadelphia, for the
trip. Lieutenant Ives and party left Fort Yuma January
11, 1858, and had passed up the Colorado on March 12,
through the Black Canon, and reached the mouth of Virgin
River. From this point Lieutenant Ives returned to the
Mojave villages, where he quit the steamer, ordering it to
proceed down the river to Fort Yuma, while he, with a
portion of his scientific corps, being joined by Lieutenant
Tipton with twenty enlisted men as escort, started eastward
by land. His route soon deflected to the north of that fol
lowed by former explorers, and included an exploration of
the canon of the Colorado Chiquito and other streams, and
for the first time since the occupation of any portion of
Arizona by the United States the villages of the Moqui
Indians were visited. Lieutenant Ives arrived at Fort Defi
ance in May, and his report, amply illustrated by engravings
of scenery, is the most fascinating of all the Government
reports of various explorations.

6o THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Besides the Beale wagon-road through and across the
central portion of Arizona from east to west, another, gen
erally known as the Leach route, was made through the
southern portion by James B. Leach, superintendent, and
W. H. Hutton, engineer. This wagon route corresponded
much of the way from the Rio Grande west to Cook's route
of 1846, but struck the San Pedro some nine miles below
what is known as Tres Alamos, thence down the San Pedro
to the mouth of Aravaipa Canon, where it crosses the river,
striking west through a canon of heavy sand for some miles,
coming out upon a high table and continuing on west some
forty miles to the Gila River, some twenty miles, about east
from Pima Villages, thus saving, as was then calculated,
some forty miles over the route via Tucson. At that time
Tucson was considered a point of small importance. Over
much of this route through Arizona ran the Butterfield
stage line from Marshall, Texas, through to Los Angeles
and San Francisco, but via Tucson, carrying the United
States mails and passengers twice a week each way, until
broken up by Apache Indian hostilities, and the action of
the Confederates in Texas taking possession of their live
and. rolling stock in 1861. So the mail route was changed
to the more northern one, about where the Central and
California Pacific Railroads now run.
The United States took formal military possession of the
Gadsden Purchase in 1856 by sending four companies of the
First Dragoons, who were first stationed at Tucson, after
wards at Calabazas. A permanent station or post was
selected in 1857 upon the Sonoita, a stream coming into the
Santa Cruz River from the east, some fifteen miles above
Tubac, and named Buchanan after the President of the
United States at that time. The site was deemed to have no
special advantages of location, with the exception that it
was in the center of a fine grazing region; and the troops
were, it was found, subject to malarial fevers (calenturas),

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 61
especially during the rainy season in summer; so no build
ings worthy of the name of fort were erected. Late in
1858, near Beal's crossing of the Colorado, Fort Mojave was
established and garrisoned by three companies of infantry,
and in 1-859 F°rt Breckenridge, just below the junction of
the Aravaipa and San Pedro, was established and garrisoned
by taking a part of the garrison from Fort Buchanan. The
establishing of these military stations did much good for
the country, and the soldiers under their exceptionally able
and energetic officers had many fights with the Apache
Indians, but the force allowed was altogether too small to
protect such an extensive territory against an untiring and
stealthy foe. On the outbreak of the Civil War in 1861,
these posts were abandoned and troops withdrawn to other
fields, where more effective service could be rendered, and
Arizona was left to her own resources. The Apaches inter
preted this withdrawal of the troops as being done out of
fear of them, and became more active than ever in hostili
ties and very nearly succeeded in driving out every vestige
of civilization from Arizona, as well as from a large part of
Sonora and Chihuahua.
That portion of Arizona embraced in the Gadsden Pur
chase was claimed to be rich in the precious metals. Hardy
and enterprising Americans had long been more or less con
versant with Mexican traditions of immensely rich mines,
discovered and worked by the Jesuit priests, and abandoned
in consequence of Apache raids — traditions that were as
baseless as antique fables, in their details, and as far as
priests were concerned as miners, but truthful to the extent
that prospectors had actually found many rich deposits of
silver and some gold, Copper, lead and iron were hardly
noticed those days, though some of the richest discoveries
since found upon more thorough and systematic investiga
tion, have been found beneath those neglected iron cap-
pings. The elaborate reports of various Government ex
plorers, who had noted indications of mineral wealth in all

62 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
directions, corroborated the traditions current among the
then inhabitants; as every town and ranch had somewhere
in the vicinity its "lost mine." These mysterious traditions
made Arizona a most attractive country for the bold and
adventurous, and all the more so because of the recent suc
cesses of the gold-seekers in the neighboring State of Cali
fornia, where the life's hope was gathered up in a single day.
In 1854, Col. Charles D. Poston, a private citizen, landed
at Wanachisto, on the Gulf of California in the Mexican
State of Sonora, and explored the country as far as western
Sonoita and thence through the Papagoria, to the big bend
of the Gila River and down that river to its junction with
the Colorado at Fort Yuma, and thence to San Diego.
Among the scientific explorers who, with Poston, com
menced mining at this early day of American occupation
of the territory, was Herman Ehrenburg, a civil engineer
and scientist of more than ordinary learning and ability.
He remained in the Territory while Poston visited the East
and Washington City and returned through Texas in the
spring of 1856, with a colony of Germans and Americans,
who settled at the old presidio of Tubac on the Santa Cruz
River and engaged in working the silver mines in the Santa
Rita Mountains, Aravaca, the Cerro Colorado and else
where in the southern portion of the Territory. Ehrenburg,
as before stated, was a native of Germany and came to the
United States at an early age, made his way to New Orleans,
at which place he was when the war broke out between
Mexico and the American settlers of Texas, and he at once
with several others joined those who were struggling for
independence for Texas. He enlisted in the "New Orleans
Grays," and was in the battles of Goliad and Fanning's
Defeat, and was one of the few who survived the barbarous
and inhuman massacre of prisoners, who surrendered on the
pledged word of the Mexican authorities that not a man
who surrendered his arms should be hurt. At the
triumph of the Texan struggle he returned to Germany and

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 63
wrote an account in his native language of that interesting
period, giving much information of Texas, which induced a
large emigration of his countrymen to that great and fertile
State. Soon after the publication, in Germany, of his book
on Texas he returned to the United States and in 1840, at
St. Louis, joined a party crossing the American continent
for Oregon. From there he proceeded to the Sandwich
Islands, and after wandering for some years through and
among the islands of the Polynesian Archipelago, returned
to California in time to join Colonel Fremont in the effort
to free California from Mexican rule. He remained in Cali
fornia until the Gadsden Purchase was made from Mexico,
awakened his roving, restless nature once more and he came
to Arizona, where, after years of useful service, he became a
victim of the treachery of the Apache Indian at Palm
Springs, in Southern California, where his mortal remains
are buried. The little town of Ehrenburg perpetuates his
memory. The mining company, organized through the efforts of
Colonel Poston, expended nearly a million of dollars in
development of the mines that had been discovered through
the activity and energy of Poston and his able engineer,
and were in a successful condition of development when,
in 1861, the exigencies of the Civil War, then breaking out,
caused the withdrawal of the Government troops and tem
porary abandonment of the Territory by armed forces.
Raphael Pumpelly was another savant whose reports in
relation to Arizona and her resources were of a valuable
character. In the autumn of 1854 a company was started
from San Francisco, California, under Superintendent
Edward E. Dunbar, to work the Ajo copper mines in the
Papagoria, about forty miles from the Sonora line and some
forty-five miles south from Gila bend. Through scarcity
of water and fuel and the great cost of transporting supplies,
the venture was not a success, and many of the Ajo people
remained permanently in the Territory. The organizer

64 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
of the company, Edward E. Dunbar, died at Pernambuco
in 1868, and was buried upon an island near the Coast of
South America.
I now proceed to give the history of a matter not strictly
appertaining to ' the early history of Arizona, still much
interest was evinced at the time, as it seemed to demonstrate
the hatred with which Mexicans regarded Americans, and
which exhibited itself in cruelty and murder whenever and
wherever they had the power. Probably the real reason
which instigated that base and cowardly act was the
innate hatred of the white race. In 1856 Signor Gandara
was legally elected governor of the Mexican State of Sonora,
if any election can be legal where no opposition is allowed
to the people to express their opinion in the matter. Ygnacio
Pesquirie "pronounced" against him and raised an "army"
to vindicate his rights of plundering characteristics.
Henry A. Crabb, an American, of California, a man of
education and refinement, but of adventurous disposition,
had married a member of the influential and respected family
of Ainsa of Hermosillo, Sonora, and while on a visit to the
relatives of his wife, he first met Pesquirie, who was then
engaged in his struggle with Gandara for the governorship
of Sonora. Pesquirie proposed to Crabb that he bring
down one thousand armed Americans to assist him in wrest
ing the governorship of Sonora from Gandara. Crabb's
reward for himself and followers was to be a broad strip
of country across the northern portion of the State of Son
ora ; and to satisfy the scruples of the Mexican federal gov
ernment, as well as his own people, ever jealous of American
colonists, they were informed that the strip was given in
consideration of their protecting the State from depredations
of the Apache Indians, then very troublesome. Crabb raised
at once a portion of the one thousand men in California,
and marched with about one hundred, as soon as they
could be equipped and provisioned. The rest were to follow
in detachments as they could be fitted out. They entered

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 65
Sonora from the north and came in across the Colorado
Desert from Los Angeles via Warner's Ranch, Carizo
Creek, Indian Wells, and crossing the Colorado River at
Fort Yuma, and halted for a time at a camp on Gila River,
long known as "Filibuster" Camp, to recruit the animals
before crossing Papagoria and its desolate plains into the
State of Sonora.
In the meantime Pesquirie had succeeded in expelling
Gandara from the State, the defeated governor taking refuge
in Tucson, thus securing the governmental machinery ; Pes
quirie now could dispense with the services of Crabb and
followers. In fact the idea of bringing in foreigners of a
hated race had a tendency to render him unpopular. A
condition of things was at once seized upon by the opposite
party to break down the revolutionary government set up
by Pesquirie, who denied in a grandiloquent style all com
plicity or knowledge of Crabb's movements. The people,
who were aroused against him as a filibuster and robber,
had him besieged by an overwhelming force in the little
town of Caborca, and as Crabb's ammunition gave out, and
the roof of the building in which he was entrenched was on
fire and many of his men killed and wounded, the surrender
was secured upon the official promise that if they surrendered
their arms they should not be hurt, but be given safe con
duct to the American boundary in Arizona.
Pesquirie left for Oures, but sent back an order to the
commandant to have all who defied the agreement shot.
The commander, more humane than his cowardly, bloody-
minded chief, refused to carry out the cruel order, but re
signed the command to Gabalondi, the next in rank, who
had the prisoners taken out in detachments of ten and shot,
excepting one boy, about fourteen years of age, who re
mained for some years in Pesquirie's family and apparently
became a great favorite with the General. Thus were one
hundred and four brave men put to death, that the double
dealing of one be kept from the light. It has been said that

66 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Pesquirie sent Crabb's head to the City of Mexico as evi
dence of the sincerity of his hatred of the white race. The
execrations of unborn millions will follow the Pesquirie
name for centuries yet to come.
The friends of this Sylla in miniature may attempt to
gloss over his acts, but the fact must ever remain that he
lived by assassination and robbery and had crimes committed
of such enormity as to designate him the "scourge of Son
ora." Years after matters had settled down to a peace basis,
those persons who had opposed his usurpations were, most
of them, singled out and murdered in cold blood by his
hired bravos, in witness of which is pointed out the cold
blooded assassination of Signor Martin Ainsa in Hermo
sillo in his own store, attending to his business affairs;
true, the murdered man was a brother of Crabb's wife.
The perpetrator of this dastardly act, though well known,
was not apprehended, as the word of Pesquirie was above
all law for years in Sonora. The nine hundred of Crabb's
followers, who were to come forward in detachments after
him, learning of the bloody reception he and party met with,
gave up the expedition as too hazardous. Our federal
government, during the senile administration of James
Buchanan never inquired into the matter. Charles W. Tozer,
now a member of this society, learning of Crabb's situation,
organized and equipped a party of twenty-seven to proceed
in all haste to Caborca for Crabb's relief, but they were
too late, and had to fight their way back to boundary line
against great odds. Tozer is living at this writing in San
Francisco, California, at 143 1 Webster Street.
Here are introduced some documents that will elucidate
this subject more fully than any arguments drawn from
the appearance of the acts of bloodthirstiness perpetrated
by these fiends in wantonness of power, and must forever
fasten these wholesale murders upon Ygnacio Pesquirie.
(Translated from- the Spanish by George D. Tyng, Editor
of Yuma "Sentinel.")

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 67
Crabb, when he and party arrived at the Mexican frontier,
sent the following letter ahead, which was published in
"La Voz de Sonora," Ures, March 30, 1857, Supplement
to No. 61 : "Sonoite, March 26, 1857.
"To Mr. Jose Maria Redondo, Prefect of the Department
of Altar, Sonora:
"In conformity with the colonization laws of Mexico and
upon positive invitation of some of the most influential citi
zens of Sonora, I have come within the lines of your State
accompanied by one hundred companions and in advance of
nine hundred others, with the expectation of finding happy
homes with and among you. I have come without intention
of injuring any one, without intrigue, public or private.
Since my arrival at this place, I have given no indication of
sinister purposes, but on the contrary have made only
friendly propositions.
"It is true that I am provided with arms and ammunition,
but you well know that it is uncommon among Americans or
any other citizens to travel without arms ; besides that
remember that we have been obliged to pass through a coun
try continually harassed by Apache depredations ; and from
circumstances I imagine to my surprise that you are taking
hostile measures against us and are collecting a force for
exterminating myself and my companions. I am well aware
that you have given orders for poisoning the wells and that
you are prepared to resort to the vilest and most cowardly
measures against us.
"But have a care, sir ; for whatever we may be caused to
suffer shall return upon the heads of you and those who
assist you. I had never considered it possible that you
would have defiled yourself by resorting to such barbarous
practices. I also know that you have endeavored to rouse
against us our very good friends, the tribe of Papago In
dians; but it is most probable that in the position I hold,
your efforts will fail. I have come to your country because

68 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
I have a right to follow the maxims of civilization. I have
come, as I have amply proved, with the expectation of being
received with open arms; but now I believe that I am to
find my death among an enemy destitute of humanity. But
as against my companions now here, and those who are to
arrive, I protest against any wrong step. Finally you must
reflect ; bear this in mind : if blood is shed, on your head be
it and not on mine. Nevertheless, you can assure yourself
and continue your hostile preparations; for, as for me, I
shall at once proceed to where I have intended to go for
some time and am ready to start. I am the leader, and my
purpose is to act in accordance with the natural law of self-
preservation. "Until we meet at Altar, I remain,
"Your obt. servt.,
"Henry A. Crabb."
"This communication is given to the warden of Sonoite,
to be forwarded to the Prefect of Altar without fail or delay.
"H.A.C."
"A true copy of the original translation.
"Altar, March 28, 1857.
"Jose M. Redondo."
"Ures, 1857, Government Printing Office, in charge of
Jesus P. Siqueires."
The treacherous and bloody-minded military despot and
self-styled governor of Sonora, Pesquirie, at this time
issued the following "manifesto" to his deluded people, viz. :
"PROCLAMATION.
"I, Ignacio Pesquirie, Substitute-Governor of the State
and Commander-in-Chief of the forces of the frontier:
"To His Fellow Citizens : To Arms All ! !
"Now has sounded the hour I recently- announced, in
which you must prepare for the bloody struggle you are
about to enter into. You have just heard in this most arro
gant letter a most explicit declaration of war, pronounced

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 69
against us by the chief of the invaders; what reply does it
merit? That we march to meet him. Let us fly, then, to
chastise, with all the fury that can scarcely be contained in
a heart swelling with resentment against coercion, the sav
age filibuster, who has dared, in an unhappy hour to tread
our nation's soil and to arouse, insensate, our wrath!
"Nothing of mercy; nothing of generous treatment for
this canaille! Let it die like a wild beast, which, trampling
upon the rights of man and scorning every law and insti
tution of society, dares invoke the law of nature as its only
guide and to call upon brute force as its chosen ally. Sonor-
anians, let our reconciliation be made sincere by a common
hatred for this cursed horde of pirates without country,
without religion, without honor. Let the only mark to dis
tinguish us and to protect our foreheads, not only against
hostile bullets, but also against humiliation and insult, be the
tri-colored ribbon, sublime creation of the genius of Iguala.
Upon it let there be written the grand words, Liberty or
Death, and henceforth shall it bear for us one more sig
nificance, the powerful, invincible union of the two parties,
which have lately divided our State in civil war. We shall
soon return all loaded with glory, after having forever
secured the prosperity of Sonora and established in defiance
of tyranny this principle : The people that wants to be free
will be so. Meanwhile, citizens, relieve your hearts by giv
ing free course to the enthusiasm which now burdens them.
"Live Mexico; death to the filibusters!
"Ures, March 30, 1857. "Ignacio Pesquirie."
"Ures, 1857, Government Printing Office, in charge of
Jesus P. Siqueires."
This last document settles the matter forever upon Pes
quirie and proves beyond all cavil that he incited those
murders of the Crabb party at Caborca in Sonora. True, his
inflammatory utterances did not fall upon dull or unwilling

70 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
ears. No apology or labored explanation will be considered
after his explicit and brutal proclamation over his official
signature and published in his official organ, and the only
paper at that time published in the State.
No other attempts were made to "colonize" Sonora until
i860, when a puny affair caused some little excitement.
The Mexicans attempted retaliation when the exigencies
of our Civil War had caused the withdrawal of the few
troops that had been allowed Arizona, and before the Cali
fornia Volunteers arrived. An Opita Indian led a party of
freebooters across the boundary line into United States ter
ritory and committed a few robberies, but the report of
advancing troops sent them back into Mexican jurisdiction,
not standing particularly on their order of going; but as
their hands were in for plunder, they continued to depredate
upon their own countrymen for some months, when the
troops of Pesquirie, under General Altimirano, surprised
them one evening, killing and capturing many, among whom
was the leader. All the captives were shot at sunrise next
morning. This affair of the Crabb massacre has been par
ticularized that the treachery and falsehood of Pesquirie
may be placed upon record before all evidence shall be oblit
erated by lapse of time, as even now there are few living
witnesses and actors in preliminary proceedings. Crabb's
widow never married, but devoted all her energies to rearing
and educating her children, and at this writing, 1902, resides
in San Francisco, California. She has one son, a fine busi
ness man, named Henry A. Crabb, after his ill-fated father.
The first mining machinery was brought into Arizona
to be used at the famous Cerro Colorado Mine, sometimes
known at that time as the "Heintzelman" Mine. Some set
tlements, though small and at long distances from their
base of supplies and from each other, were commenced along
the Colorado River, in what is now Mojave County, in 1857,
and efforts were made to secure a civil government for the
Territory about this time. No courts were organized within

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 71
the territorial boundaries, and Santa Fe, N. M., was a long
distance to go to obtain at least a semblance of justice, or
at least judicial forms. The people depended upon their
own strong arms and resolute hearts in these times, when
practically each man was a law unto himself. After the
United States troops were withdrawn, no military protec
tion was afforded to Arizona until a company of Confed
erate cavalry came in from the Rio Grande under a Captain
Hunter in February, 1862, and there were not enough of
them to do much more than to protect themselves.
Brigadier-General James H. Carleton commanded the
California column arriving in Tucson with the advance com
mand of his troops, May 20, 1862, the Confederates under
Hunter retiring almost within hearing of Carleton's advanc
ing trumpets. General Carleton, in his proclamation of
June 8, 1862, defined the boundaries of Arizona, and in the
absence of civil law declared martial law, and for the suc
ceeding eighteen months, or a little more, the Territory was
fairly governed, and in most cases substantial justice was
impartially administered. The military rule gave place to
the civil in Arizona on or about January 1, 1864, with John
N. Goodwin, Governor, and seat of territorial government
fixed at Prescott. At this point it may be well to state how
it came about that the capital of Arizona was first located at
Prescott in Yavapai County, a new town started by a few
hardy miners and the party of officials that accompanied the
new governor to his field of government. The governor
and nearly all of his officials (with the exception of Milton
B. Duffield, the marshal) came across the plains, starting
from St. Louis, Missouri, via Independence, to Santa Fe,
New Mexico, where General James H. Carleton had estab
lished his headquarters as department commander. The
department consisted then of New Mexico and Arizona.
When these officials left Washington, they were expected,
in fact ordered, to proceed to Tucson direct, as that was at
the time the only known town in the Territory of any size

-J2 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
and standing. It had been headquarters of the Arizona
District under Carleton's command, but the general was
sensitive to criticism and hated a man or men who did not
appear to justify his acts, although he might have doubts
of their justice himself. Some of the citizens of Tucson
had ventured to criticize the arbitrary and unwarranted act
of his military government, notably the order of banishment
of Sylvester Mowry from the Territory, for which there
would seem, even by the documentary evidence presented to
the military commission, to be no justification. So the
commanding general had determined in his own mind to
humiliate the free-thinking town which, at that time, De
cember, 1863, was exciting considerable attention on account
of gold discoveries around where Prescott now is.
The Weaver diggings had been discovered early in the
spring before; therefore now was an opportunity not to be
neglected to pay off old scores with Tucson and establish a
rival city among and in the center of a vast mining region;
besides the possibility, if not probability, was dwelt upon that
it would open an avenue whereby each and all would attain
vast wealth and influence. These two causes led to the aban
donment of Tucson as the capital and the establishment of a
new one in a virgin field, where all would have an equal
chance for gold and glory.
As it has turned out after nearly forty years of trial, the
gold has been no misnomer; around Prescott, in all direc
tions, is a great mineral country, hardly surpassed in any
section of the world. While some other regions may be
higher grade to the ton, the climate and surroundings are
such that the yearly profits equal those of any other part
of the world today, and at this time the mining prospect of
that section is increasing, and new developments are of
frequent occurrence and will no doubt continue for many
years to come.
General Carleton, to further humiliate Tucson, had the
Military Depot of Supplies broken up at Tucson in August,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 73
1864, and all troops taken from there and distributed among
other posts ; but early in 1865 Arizona was taken from
Carleton's department and attached to California, and the
new district commander re-established the department at
Tucson. By a proclamation of May 8, 1864, an election was called
by Governor John N. Goodwin, to be held July 18, 1864,
for the election of a Delegate to Congress and members of
a territorial legislature. The first delegate from Arizona to
the Federal Congress was Hon. Charles D. Poston. The
members of Legislative Council first chosen were Coles
Bashford, Francisco G. Leon, Mark Aldrich, Patrick H.
Dunn, George W. Lehi, Jose M. Redondo, King S. Woolsey,
Robert W. Groom and Henry A. Bigelow. Members of the
lower house were as follows : W. C. Jones, John G. Capron,
Gregory P. Harte, Henry D. Jackson, Jesus M. Elias, Daniel
H. Stickney, Nathan B. Appel, Norman S. Higgins, Gilbert
W. . Hopkins, Louis G. Bouchet, George M. Holaday,
Thomas H. Bidwell Ed. D. Tuttle, William Walter, John M.
Baggs, James Garvin, James S. Giles and Jackson
McCrackin. Coles Bashford was chosen president of the
council or upper house, and Almon Gage, Secretary. Jones,
generally known as Claude Jones, was appointed Speaker
of the lower house and James Andrews Clerk, translator, and
H. W. Fleury, chaplain. In both branches of this legislature
were some very able men, who would have appeared in the
front of any assembly. Coles Bashford was a very able
lawyer, had been governor of Wisconsin, and was a man
of mark wherever placed. In the lower house, W. C. Jones
(Claude) was a distinguished lawyer and linguist, able to
address a jury in English, German and Spanish. Nathan B.
Appel spoke and wrote with facility in English, German,
French and Spanish. People in the older States are apt to
estimate the public men of the new territories as raw and
new, because the country is new, forgetting that it is the
boldest, most enterprising and broadest-minded that leave

74 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
the old communities and come to new countries, to pave their
way to fortune in new fields. This legislature divided the
Territory of Arizona into the following four counties, viz. :
Yuma, Mojave, Pima and Yavapai.

CHAPTER IV
Missions and Building of Churches. — The Grand
Canon of the Colorado. — Montezuma's Well.
The first teaching of the principles of Christianity to the
Indians of Arizona was by the Jesuit fathers, when Spain
held all of South and much of North America and being
ardently Catholic allowed no heresy to be taught in her
dominions, and the Jesuits at that time, being a new order,
entered zealously into the work of baptizing and gathering
into missions the wild Indian tribes. How much of true
Christianity was imbibed by these savages it is hard to say,
but they were taught to lead more gregarious lives ; to some
extent cultivate the soil ; to listen to the holy sacrifice of the
mass; and in a manner forget war, the normal state of all
savages. The first mission started in Arizona would appear to have
been at Tubac in 1698, and in 1700 at Huababi by Padre
Eusibio Kino. In May, 1700, he laid the corner-stone of a
church upon the site of San Xavier del Bac, perhaps the
present church itself. The church at Tumicacori appears to
have been begun later, but was completed first. The records
become very obscure, and though the Indians at the time
seemed anxious to proceed with the building of the church
at San Xavier del Bac, for some reason, perhaps because
the priests could not attend to it, the building of the church
did not then proceed; at least, there is no authoritative
record that this church was ever completed under Jesuit
administration, though it probably was so far completed
that one room was used for service of the mass about 1732.
The church, or what there was of it, was partially destroyed
by the Indians themselves in an outbreak in 1721. The

76 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Jesuits themselves, after the issuing of the order of Pope
Clement XIV., breaking up the Society of Jesus, were
expelled from all their missions in Spanish Americas in
1767, and the missions and all property considered as
belonging to the Jesuit order taken possession of by the gov
ernment. The order of Franciscans came in after some years had
elapsed, and such of the mission property as had not been
sold, appropriated or destroyed, was turned over to them.
The Christianized Indians had carried off and secreted much
of the sacred belongings of the church, which, when the
priests appeared, was gladly brought forth and turned over
to them by these faithful custodians, who knew nothing of
these different religious orders. All to them were alike,
"Soldiers of the Cross."
In 1783 the present church of San Xavier del Bac was
virtually begun upon the site selected by the Jesuit Kino,
who laid the corner-stone in May, 1700. The church was
completed in 1797 by the Franciscans.
In 1776 the Christianized Indians in the vicinity of Tucson
were found in a pueblo adjoining the presidio, called at this
time San Augustine del Pueblo de Tucson, where religious
instruction was imparted to the Indians, Apaches as well as
Papagoes, and the children were instructed in the catechism
and Spanish language. This "pueblo" was upon the left,
or western, side of the Santa Cruz River, and most of the
old walls are yet standing (August, 1903), though in a
dilapidated condition.
Not far from the site of the present city of Tucson was an
Indian rancheria that evidently had been a place of residence
of Indians, at least for a large portion of the time, from a
period long anterior to the appearing of Europeans upon this
continent. Some writers of histories are disposed to ascribe
great age to Tucson, and, taken back to the time the first
Indian wickiup was pitched in the valley, it no doubt goes
far back into the shadowy past ; but if the time be fixed at

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 77
the first settling of Europeans at Tucson, there seems to be
no evidence that anything permanent was fixed at Tucson
until 1776. It has been the practice with many of the
writers of the history of Arizona to assert that the Jesuit
Father Kino, in his travels in Arizona through a wild and
desert country, inhabited only by nomadic savages, was on
a mission founding missions, though it is well ascertained
that at that time there were no missions founded in what is
now the limits of Arizona until long after the good father
had been laid in his grave.
From the Spanish names, on early maps, corresponding
with those of Kino and Venegas, the conclusion has been
arrived at that up the Gila Valley and other streams the
whole country available for settlement was dotted with
Spanish pueblos and missions that were later abandoned on
account of the raids of hostile Apache Indians, but the truth
seems to be there was no Spanish occupation, excepting a
narrow strip of Santa Cruz Valley, and there were only
two missions, San Xavier del Bac and Huababi, with a few
Indian rancherias de vista under resident priests from
about 1720, and protected by the Tubac presidio from 1752
in their precarious existence. The names of patron saints
were applied by Father Kino to Indian rancherias, in their
itineraries and maps, where he and his party stopped over
night, or for a few days, to recuperate men and animals,
and perhaps the Indians at these points were told that a
priest would be sent to them and preparations were made to
some extent for the reception of the promised missionaries,
who failed to come, through inability to supply the demands
for these holy men.
There does not appear to be any evidence of more than
two missions having been established in the Spanish occu
pancy within the limits of what now is Arizona, and these
were at no time prosperous. As before noted, these mis
sions were San Xavier del Bac and Huababi, with a few
rancherias under priests residing at the regular missions,

78 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
who visited these rancherias at stated times to baptize chil
dren, say mass, perform marriage ceremonies and perform
such other duties as appertain to their calling.
The rich mines and prosperous haciendas in the vicinity
of these missions that the Jesuit fathers are said to have
managed so successfully for themselves, upon closer examin
ation seem to partake largely of the fabulous ; but hunting
for these visionary mines has engaged the attention of many
a hardy prospector, and even yet, every now and then we
hear of "the lost mine" having been found. The Spaniards,
it would appear, started in Mexico after the Cortez con
quest and gradually extended into the interior and to the
north, and did not at once get up to what is now called
Arizona, though some of the expedition under Coronado, or
even Coronado himself, may have visited the rancherias in
1540, but that did not constitute a Spanish settlement. The
Indian rancheria sometimes called old Tucson was about a
mile southerly from the present site of the city of Tucson,
and doubtless had been from time to time occupied by the
nomads from time immemorial.
Mark Twain, in one of his inimitable works, in his free
and easy style, tells his readers that the oldest city in the
world is Damascus. Rome, he says, is called for some
reason the "Eternal City," yet Damascus was a flourishing
city "ere Romulus and Remus had been suckled." So
Tucson (Tuczon or Tuigson, as it has been variously
spelled), counting from the time the first wickiup was
erected upon or near its present site, may rival Damascus in
antiquity, but Tucson really was not settled by Europeans
until well into the eighteenth century, and the first starting
of settlements seems to have been the Jesuit fathers. After
a time pueblos, or military posts, were established for their
protection. In every instance, however, in these northern
settlements the self-sacrificing Catholic priests led the ad
vance. After Mexico had thrown off Spanish rule, the mis
sion, through want of funds, declined and little military

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 79
protection was afforded them until finally the breaking out
of the Apaches drove them entirely out of the sparsely
settled country of Arizona, and when the United States took
possession in 1856, there really was no mission sustained
within the limits of the Territory, with the exception, per
haps of a resident priest at Tucson, who kept up the weekly
service of mass, baptized children and attended burials, mar
riages also, when called upon, though that ceremony was in
many instances dispensed with, not deeming it material when
couples wished to live together.
There was a church established quite early some three
miles below where Tucson now is, on what is known as
Grosetti's Ranch, which has been known among the Spanish-
speaking people of this vicinity up to a recent date as "Casa
de los Padres." There is but little, if any, evidence of a
church there at the present day.
The Grand Canon of the Colorado.
In addition to the vast natural resources of Arizona, the
Territory possesses great natural wonders that must ever
attract the attention of the tourist, the man of the world
and the scientific investigator. The Grand Canon has no
known peer on the face of the earth ; the rivers of Asia,
whose sources are in the mighty Himalaya Range, present
nothing to be compared to it in sublimity and grandeur.
The river channel at many points of its course is over
6,000 feet below the point of view, and though the waters
of a great river are rolling and tumbling over a rocky bed
with a continual roar like Niagara, at the surface not a
sound can be heard. This wonder of the world was first
beheld in 1540 by a party of Spaniards consisting of twelve
men, led by one of Coronado's lieutenants, named Garcia
Lopez de Cardenas, over three hundred and sixty years ago,
and was not looked into again by a white man for fully
forty years.

80 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
From accounts given by geologists we may understand
something of its vast dimensions.
What is known as the Grand Canon lies principally in
northwestern Arizona; its length in a straight line, from
northeasterly to southwesterly, being about one hundred
and eighty miles; its width, one hundred and twenty-five
miles, and its total area some 15,000 square miles. The
canon, proper, commences at the high plateaus in southern
Utah, in a series of terraces, extending for many miles on
each side of the stream, dropping like the steps of a stair
way to lower geological formations, until in Arizona the
platform or formation is reached which borders the real
chasm, extending southward near the central part, north
and south of the Territory.
Geologists have advanced the theory that some 10,000
feet of strata have been eroded from the surface of this
entire platform; the present uppermost formation is the
carboniferous. Such a theory is based upon the fact that
the missing Permian, Mesozoic and Tertiary formations,
which, where the formations have not been disturbed, be
long above the carboniferous in the series, and are found
in place at the commencement of the northern terraces
referred to. The climax in this most extraordinary erosion
is the Grand Canon, which, were the missing strata re
stored to the adjacent plateau, would be 16,000 feet deep.
To the majority such a statement is apt to be considered
as but the dream of an enthusiast, as a theory, and until
the question has been studied in all its various aspects and
without prejudice in favor of early teaching or precon
ceived opinions, it does not seem credible that water should
have eroded such a trough for itself through solid rock.
That section of the world's crust seems to have under
gone great changes in the distant past. It would appear to
have been hove up and again submerged beneath the ocean
more than once, and lastly, it was a fresh water sea and
in the era of this last convulsion the river cut its gorge.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 81
Being the drainage system of a large extent of territory,
it forced its right of way, and as the plateau rose slowly
before the mighty pressure of internal forces, through a
period almost of infinity, the river wore its bed to the
level of erosion; or if it has not done so yet, is still wear
ing, sawing, its channel free.
Beginning at the plateau level on the brink of the canon,
the order of formations above the river, according to Cap
tain Dutton, is as follows, the vertical depth being over a
mile. i. Cherry limestone, two hundred and forty feet.
2. Aubrey limestone, three hundred and twenty feet.
3. Cross-bedded sandstone, three hundred and eighty
feet. 4. Lower Aubrey sandstone, nine hundred and fifty feet.
5. Upper red wall sandstone, four hundred feet.
6. Red wall lime sandstone, one thousand, five hundred
feet. 7. Lower carboniferous sandstone, five hundred and
fifty feet.
8. Quartzite base of carboniferous, one hundred and
eighty feet.
9. Archaean, three hundred and fifty feet to water, or
surface of stream at low water.
The Grand Canon is not far from four hundred miles
long in its many windings, but from where the river first
commenced to cut its way into the strata is fully six hun
dred miles. In this distance the river receives about two
hundred tributaries, each of which, as it neared the
Grand Canon, has cut for itself a canon forming a great
net work of canons, some of them approaching in sub
limity the Grand Canon itself.
In this system of canons will yet be developed the most
extensive bodies of copper in the world, in fact, rich indi
cations of most of the known minerals are here exposed
to view, strata above strata.

82 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Montezuma's Well.
This celebrated well is fifty-five miles northeast of Pres
cott, and about twelve miles nearly due north of Camp
Verde. It is situated in a formation of limestone, on a
bare, rocky and level mesa or table, one hundred feet above
the creek and seventy feet above the water, which is clear
and pure, and in depth about one hundred feet. The open
ing to this well is circular, and about six hundred feet in
diameter. The walls on the northwest side are about per
pendicular. Something near midway between the water
and surface of the mesa are three or four caves, evidently
once used by the cave-dwellers of prehistoric times, hav
ing a frontage of from twelve to twenty feet, and similar
depth. The eastern and southeastern borders of this well
are within thirty to one hundred feet of Beaver Creek,
from which it is separated by a rim of limestone rock,
which was built up with stone buildings its entire width,
and nearly one hundred feet in length; the walls of these
old buildings still remaining are in places twenty feet high.
Broken pottery in the vicinity is abundant Lava dykes are
abundant on the flat and what is known as the well has
been, in the distant past, the crater of a volcano.
There is a tradition said to be among the Indians in that
vicinity that once in one thousand years this well of water
overflows and for a thousand years becomes the source
of a mighty river, then subsides and remains within its
prison walls until at the end of another period it again
overflows. Since the last subsidence, by the same tradition,
some 400 years have past away, so that none alive now
will see it again overflow, — one of nature's calendars, but
who can read it and account for the variations? What
planet rules these tides, as our moon rules the semi-daily
tides of ocean?
In the same vicinity, also, is the Tower of Montezuma,
a peculiar formation, a circular rock that rises up from its

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 83
rugged surroundings in a vast desert to the height of some
eighty feet, gradually tapering from some forty feet in dia
meter at the bottom, to about sixteen feet at the top, and on
top of this rock a giant cactus runs up to a height of forty
feet more and at a distance, when in bloom, the tower seems
crowned with flowers.
From Flagstaff, in Coconino County, the great natural
curiosities of Arizona are within easy reach. There is
the Natural Bridge, over Pine Creek, one of the great
wonders of its kind, far surpassing the famed Nat
ural Bridge of Virginia. This bridge is in Coconino
County, formerly Yavapai, and is an .arch carved by
nature's forces, and will yet be the objective point of tour
ists and scientists from the world over. It is situated some
seven miles from the small settlement of Mazatzal City, and
nearly the same distance from the Pine lumber camp.
The bridge, though very extensive, is hidden from view
from nearly all points upon the hills around it, and not
until one arrives upon the brink of the gorge does the
cavern come in sight, with a stream of pure water cours
ing along over its rocky bed. The top of this bridge em
braces nearly ten acres of fine soil for cultivation, and is
utilized by the owner as a garden and orchard. From the
bed of the stream to the roof is about one hundred and
sixty feet; the arch will average eighty feet and the tunnel
is somewhere near five hundred feet. Up near the roof,
reached by ladders, is a large cave extending far to the
west into the hills. The action of water through long
lapses of time may be seen in the wearing and scouring of
the rocks into many fantastic shapes. There are upon the
lower side of the bridge many caves as interesting, per
haps, as the bridge itself. These caves have never yet been
sufficiently explored, but are known to extend a long dis
tance into the hill.
Chalcedony Park, generally known as the Petrified For
est, consists of a tract of land of about two thousand acres,

84 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
which has once in its history been heavily timbered. This
Petrified Forest is classed today as the most astonishing
natural curiosity in the world. In the life of the human race
man has reared wonderful structures that have come down
to our own day, such as caves to live in; the monumental
Pyramids of Egypt, so vast as to require a nation to labor
many years erecting those useless fabrics for tombs
in which royalty might repose in their final slumbers;
the Sphinx, a monument of granite, surmounted by a hu
man head of vast proportions, being one hundred and two
feet in circumference, — all these are as nothing when it
comes to transforming a great forest of living trees into
not only stone, but precious and costly gems, chalcedony,
topaz, onyx, cornelian, agate and amethyst. What specific
change has taken place in the earth, air, and water of this
particular spot of the earth's surface that should chemically
change a living forest into not one, but many of the earth's
precious gems? There are millions of tons here that if
divided up into suitable sizes, which can easily be done,
and placed in the hands of a lapidary, would in their beauty
embellish a crown. Many of these prostrate trees are from
one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in length, and
at the largest part, ten feet in diameter. Generally from
their great weight when falling they are broken into sec
tions, but this is not always the case. One of these trees
fell across an arroyo in which still runs water, the length
of the span is fifty-five feet, over which is this petrified
tree about two feet in diameter, — a bridge of jasper and
agate. In this petrified forest are precious gems enough to
supply the world.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 85

LIST ofGOVERNORS of ARIZONA
and LENGTH of SERVICE
John N. Goodwin  1863-1866
Richard C. McCormick  1866-1869
A. P. K. Safford.  1869-1877
John P. Hoyt  1877-1878
John C. Fremont..  1878-1882
Frederick A. Tritle  1882-1885
C. Meyer Zulick  1885-1889
Lewis Wolfley  1889-1890
John N. Irwin  1890-1892
N. Oakes Murphy  1892-1893
Louis C. Hughes  1893-1896
Benjamin J. Franklin  1896-1897
Myron H. McCord  1897-1898
N. Oakes Murphy  1898-1902
Alexander O. Brodie  1902-

PART II

CHAPTER V
Apache County
This county has a superficial area of 11,520 square miles,
or nearly one-fourth that of the Empire State of New York.
St. Johns is the county-seat, and is a Mormon town, not
on the line of any railroad, but is a nice town of some 600
inhabitants and a place of considerable commerce. Much
of this county is mountainous, and is well adapted to the
raising of cattle, sheep and goats, and along the streams is
some fine land for farming. As yet it is but sparsely settled,
and the altitude is so great that the winters are as severe
as more northern locations. A large part of the northern
portion of the country is taken up by the Navajo Indian
Reservation. This county was set off from Yavapai by the
tenth session of the legislature in 1879..-.
Until March, 1895, this county embraced what is now
(1902) Navajo County, but at the former date that was set
apart and established as a separate county. Apache County
is justly noted for its great natural resources and advan
tages. In the future this county is destined to have a large
population. As before stated, Navajo Indians occupy the
northern portion of the county; in fact, much of the whole
county, as they care but little for reservation boundaries,
driving their flocks and herds where they please and where
grazing is best.
The southern part is fine grazing land, while the more
northern is cut up into gorges and canons by floods of past
ages. The population of this county, by census of 1900, was
4,200. There are something over two hundred miles of irrigating
canals taken out of an average width on bottom of two feet

go THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
and a depth of water running one foot. The average fall
of water in these canals is nine feet per mile. This county
has undeveloped water resources sufficient to reclaim large
bodies of land that are now practically unproductive, which
will eventually be rendered fruitful and serve the purposes
of man in the matter of rendering homes possible for an
industrious and thriving population, where now are but
arid wastes abandoned to the coyotes, lizards, horned toads
and other beasts and reptiles. Coal is found in the moun
tains in this county in vast quantities, but until better trans
portation facilities are afforded, the deposits cannot be suc
cessfully worked, and for the time are of no value. At some
future day this portion of Arizona will rival Pennsylvania or
England in the production of coal.
The population of Apache County by census of 1900 was
8,297, and now would probably reach fully 10,000. There
are fifteen public schools in the county, employing thirty-
two teachers; number of pupils, 1,244; average school
months per year, six. There are nine churches in the county,
four Catholic and five Mormon, or Latter-day Saints.
Over much of this county, but more especially along the
valley of the Colorado Chiquito, are to be found numerous
ruins of a pre-historic people.
In the vicinity and just south of the town of St. Johns
can be traced the ruins of two towns of considerable size,
that probably contained a population of from three to four
thousand each. These ancient people, from undoubted evi
dence found in the ruins, were in their earlier stages phal
lic worshipers, and in their more advanced stage worshipers
of the sun, showing that the different branches of the human
race in their upward progress from cannibalism, savageism,
etc., have in all climes and in all ages traveled over about
the same track; some are yet upon the scene, struggling
toward an ideal higher civilization, whilst others have passed
out into eternal night and are known only by a few molder-
ing relics left behind. The religions of later ages, as

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 91
humanity has progressed have endeavored to stamp out
knowledge of these early forms of worship, through an idea,
perhaps, that it might lead to the tracing of some of their
cherished, sacred and original forms and ceremonies to
these primitive beginnings, and cast a suspicion that all
these stately forms of now overshadowing religions can be
traced to the same primitive root. Wherever such ruins are
found, in either Arizona or New Mexico, their main entrance
faces east, and all are built of stone with mud for mortar.
Other ruins are to be found some twelve miles south of
St. Johns, on the west bank of a stream called by the Mexi
can people "San Cosmos," and from all indications of like
antiquity indicating that in their day these must have been
flourishing towns.
Farther south, near the village of Springerville, are other
ruins, exhibiting same characteristics, which show that at
least some among these ancient peoples possessed engineer
ing skill, as here were large reservoirs for the storage of
surplus waters of the Colorado River. What is now known
as Becker's Lake was one of these reservoirs, and the ace-
quia leading from the river to the lake can yet be traced.
(Prof. A. F. Banta.)
As a matter of fact, there are many ruins to be found
scattered over most of Apache County, not only on the
plains and along the valleys of the various streams, but up
among mountain peaks the dwellings of the cave-dwellers,
the autochthon of the human race, are to be found. These
are the mute records of the earliest of the human race, — who
shall translate their story for the knowledge of later gen
erations ?
The altitude of this county is such that all streams flow
rapidly, being from four to ten thousand feet ; and in con
sequence all vegetable and animal matter is washed away,
rendering the country free of all malarial diseases; asthma
and scarlet fever are not known.

92 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
The undeveloped resources of the county are lumber and
the precious minerals.
The hills and mountains abound in black-tailed deer,
antelopes, bears and mountain lions. Grouse, wild turkeys,
etc., are plentiful, and the mountain streams are filled with
trout of the finest variety.
St. Johns, the county-seat and principal town, was first
settled by Mexicans coming from the Rio Grande in New
Mexico in 1872. Ten years later the Mormons, or Latter-
day Saints, began to come in and settle in the valleys in the
vicinity, and continued to come in until they became quite
numerous, and engaged in growing fruit, grain, hay and
vegetables of many kinds. The raising of cattle and sheep
was gone into extensively, therefore wool and beef cattle are
largely exported. The fruit consists of peaches, pears,
apples and grapes. The production of honey is large and
increasing. By means of ditches, canals, aqueducts, or acequias, water
is brought from the Colorado Chiquito (little). Several
irrigating companies, among them the "St. Johns," supply
water at fair rates. The reservoirs of this company cover
some sixty acres.
The town of St. Johns has an altitude of 5,700 feet, and,
therefore, no extreme heat can be looked for. Nights are
always cool, and a thick blanket is pleasant to sleep under
in the warmest of weather.
Springerville, situated about thirty-five miles southeast
of the county-seat, has an altitude of 6,500 feet above sea-
level. It is in a round valley and is one of the most flourish
ing settlements on the Colorado Chiquito. Around it is a
fine country for agriculture, where grains, fruits, vegetables,
etc., grow in abundance. Canals from the Colorado supply
water in abundance. Becker Lake, one and one-half miles
in length by half a mile in width, and twenty-five feet in
depth, furnishes an excellent natural reservoir. Fine fish,
trout and carp, are found in abundance therein. There are

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 93
other considerable towns, as Concho and Nutrioso, sur
rounded by beautiful farms and room for many more.
Alpine, in the extreme southeastern part of the county, is
surrounded by a fine tract of soil, but as the altitude of this
place is about 9,000 feet, they in ordinary seasons need but
little irrigation, as the rainfall is sufficient to supply the
necessary moisture for wheat, oats, barley, etc. This is the
northeastern county of Arizona, being bounded on the east
by New Mexico; on the south by Graham County; on the
west by Navajo County, and on the north by Utah. For
about 250 miles this county borders New Mexico on the
east, and Navajo County on the west, and is about sixty
miles wide. Taxable property of 1903 amounted to $1,003,-
905.38.

CHAPTER VI
Coconino County.
Coconino County contains an area of 19,322 miles ;
its greatest length is 180 miles, and its greatest width 140
miles, — larger than the combined States of Massachusetts,
Vermont and Delaware. It is bounded on the east by
Navajo County ; on the south by Yavapai and Gila Counties ;
on the west by a portion of Yavapai County and Mojave
County, and on the north by the State of Utah.
Flagstaff is the county-seat, being situated upon the Santa
Fe and Pacific Railroad, and is a place of much commercial
importance. Much of the county is mountainous, arid considerable is
desert ; still there are large tracts where sheep and cattle can
be grown in vast flocks and herds. The mountains, like
most of Arizona mountains, are ribbed with mineral-bear
ing ledges, and much mining is being done and will continue
to increase for a century to come, as yet it is in its infancy.
The great Petrified Forest of the world is in this country,
and it would seem from the beautiful specimens seen from
there, that a large commerce in petrified wood ought to be
built up, as it is fine and will take the polish of the most
beautiful marble.
A large portion of the Grand Canon of the Colorado,
one of the greatest natural wonders of the world, is in
Coconino County, and the Santa Fe and Pacific Railroad
has run a branch road out some sixty miles to it, so that
people anxious to see the wearing effects of running water
upon solid rock, through the lapse of revolving centuries,
having worn down into the earth's crust over a mile, can

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 95
gratify their curiosity with little hardship or expense.
There is an Indian reservation in the county, the Yavapai-
Supi reserve.
Coconino County was set off from Yavapai in the ses
sion of 1893. The population by census of 1900 is 5,514,
and that of the town of Flagstaff, by same census is 1,271
— Indians in county, 1,113. There is a large body of land
in this county yet belonging to the United States Govern
ment, and a fine opportunity is thus offered to the indus
trious and intelligent farmer to acquire a home for him
self and family. All farm products find a ready market
near home and at remunerative prices. Within the bound
aries of this county somewhere near two million acres are
covered with a fine growth of pine timber, and it has been
estimated that cut into inch boards would produce some
eight billion feet. The lumber business of this county is
of great proportions and gives steady employment to many
hundreds of men at remunerative wages. A large propor
tion of the land upon which this vast forest grows is yet
public land and open to actual settlers under the Home
stead Act.
The general government has set apart in the north
western portion of the county for a National Park, an
area of 2,893 square miles known as the "Grand Canon
Forest Reserve," — the Colorado River flows through it, and
it embraces the most striking features of the world-
renowned Grand Canon of the Colorado, which attracts many
tourists from every country upon the globe. Here are
ruins of the ancient cliff and cave dwellers, also a natural
well in solid rock called the Well of Montezuma, which,
perhaps, was opened when this portion of the earth's
foundations was laid, and numerous other wonders are
now on the great lines of travel. The climate is healthful
and the summers cool and invigorating, as the altitude of
6,000 feet and upwards gives it the climate of a latitude
much farther from the equator at a lower level.

96 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Much of the country is rich in a great variety of minerals,
but as yet only the surface has been scratched and that in
only a few places. There are vast deposits of coal, also
black onyx, and in the Grand Canon, itself, is the largest
deposit of copper ore in the United States, perhaps, in the
world. Gold and silver in paying quantities are also found
in many places. The Arizona sandstone, which is found in
the vicinity of Flagstaff and is the material of which many
of the finest buildings in many of our large Western cities
are constructed, is an important industry.
The San Francisco plateau is a great natural curiosity
resembling a gigantic whaleback humped up above the sur
face of the Mogollon watershed in northern Arizona; dif
fering entirely from the rest of the system. On either hand
the desert comes up to its sides; on the east are the lofty,
barren plains of the painted desert, while on the west are
the lower deserts of the Mojave; yet here it is surrounded
by these vast plains of desolation ; this body of land rounds
upwards like a fertile island from a surrounding ocean.
On either side the desolate plains have no timber, if sage
brush be excepted, while here is the most splendid forest
of Arizona and among the finest of the southwest. On the
plains are sand, sage brush and heat, while on this elevated
plateau is the vivifying breath of ancient pines and cooling
breezes from snow-cloud peaks; fresh green grasses, knee
high; glades and ponds and clear, beautiful streams filled
with the finest trout. Some day, and that not very distant,
this beautiful country will be thickly settled, and made to
administer to the necessities of civilized man.
The Arizona pine belt where the Atlantic and Pacific
Railroad crosses is fully sixty miles wide from east to west,
and a little over two hundred miles long from north to
south, or a little over one-fourth of the area of the State
of New York.
Some fifty miles north of the line of the railroad the
Grand Canon crosses this forest but does not terminate it;

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 97
about fifty miles south of the railroad the great plateau
breaks off into Tonto Basin, but the forest continues on up
the sides of the mountain range, Mazatzals, and other
ranges giving out at last where the great plateau of north
ern and central Arizona finally breaks down to the valley
of the Gila River. This great table is the Arizona Divide,
the culmination of the watershed of the Mogollon Moun
tains. The average elevation above sea level is about 7,000
feet. Like sentinels guarding this treasured country, the
San Francisco peaks rise to between twelve and thirteen
thousand feet, the most lofty mountains of Arizona.
This region of Coconino County is unique, — the most
wonderful area of the United States. The health-giving
and invigorating qualities of the air of this pinery plateau
is truly wonderful, its sweet perfume is that of the pine
woods of Maine, but there is a tonic in it that does not ap
pertain to the pine forests of Maine even in early summer
nor to other lands of humid skies. The winters are quite
severe, and heavy snows fall at times on account of the
great altitude, the mercury getting down to eight and ten
below zero.
Flagstaff, the principal town of this vast plateau and the
county-seat, has an elevation, above sea level, of 6,935 feet>
and for this reason is not subject to extreme heat. The
town gets its peculiar name from the fact that a govern
ment expedition, camping there one Fourth of July, trimmed
up a tall pine tree for a flagstaff and floated the flag of
our country from its top, and before a house was erected
there the point was known as Flagstaff. Flagstaff is a
prosperous city nestled among the pines at the foot of San
Francisco Mountains, whose serrated peaks are covered
much of the year with a snowy mantle, which has much to
do in modifying the climate of surrounding plains that lie
in vast stretches on each side. Flagstaff, in the near future,
will not only be a great summer resort, but will be renowned
as the center of the greatest scenic wonders of the world.

98 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
as it is not only on the natural approach to the Pine Creek
Natural Bridge, Montezuma's Castle, Montezuma's Well,
Walnut Creek Canon, with its cliff and cave-dwellings,
and other great natural curiosities in that region, but it is
also the main entrance to that most stupendous of natural
wonders of the world, — the Grand Canon of the Colorado.
Here, also, is another wonder: a tribe or remnant of a
tribe, of Indians reside amid the wild beauties of what is
known as Cataract Canon; veritable cliff and cave dwellers
and not to be found in any other part of the world. To see
the wonders enumerated is of more interest to the observ
ing naturalist than many transcontinental journeys. Here,
in countries that have advanced to a comparative civiliza
tion, is to be found primitive man as he existed before the
age of history. Where else can be seen the living picture
of what our ancestors were, perhaps, fifty thousand years ago ?
The population of Flagstaff by census of 1900 is 1,271.
The leading industry of Flagstaff is its lumber; another
natural product that has added, and for centuries must con
tinue to add, to the natural wealth of that region is the
immense deposits of red sandstone, the handsomest and
most substantial building material, so far as is known, in
the United States. Some of the finest buildings in the
great cities are of Coconino stone, which can be quarried
out in perfect blocks of such sizes as may be required.
The Arizona Lumber Company owns of this great forest,
upon the edge of which is Flagstaff, nearly 1,000,000 acres;
there is still left somewhere near 6,000,000 acres that be
longs to the United States.
The best fire brick known is made from the volcanic tufa
found in large quantities in this vicinity; light, yet a pres
sure resistant and so complete a non-conductor of heat,
that one end can be heated to a red heat and the other end
held in the fingers.
The largest area of splendid grazing land in Arizona is
upon this plateau and this portion of the county is a great

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 99
producer of wool; cattle also is a very important item in
swelling the aggregate wealth of products. There is much
mining going forward, and new developments are being
made almost daily, but product from mines now is a mere
bagatelle to what it will be in the future, when capitalists
will have become awakened to the vast mineral wealth
buried in the hills and mountains of Coconino County,
awaiting the hand of intelligent industry, and in the walls
of the Grand Canon and tributary canons.
Of the various stock, horned cattle rank first, they are
found in every section of the country but especially upon
the great wooded plateau. The dry, pure air of this plateau
is conducive not alone to the health of the human species,
but also of the more inferior animals. There are no cattle
diseases, and stockmen have only accidents to contend with.
The finest of cattle and sheep are raised here and the com
mon herds improve greatly in the course of a few months.
Careful and conservative estimates give the yearly increase
of horned cattle at twenty-five per cent; horses rank third
in value as assessed and all are as widely distributed as
horned stock.
As a rapid producer of capital, sheep are far in advance
in this county; fully half the sheep of Arizona are within
the boundaries of Coconino County, and the wool produced
ranks with the best in the world. Time was, and not long
ago, when it was considered that the sheep of southern
France and the Spanish merino of northern Spain were the
best producers in the world, but in the last few years sheep
men have discovered that on the uplands of Arizona, in
Coconino County, a superior blooded sheep has been pro
duced, equal to any in the world. With care and attention
seventy-five per cent per annum increase on the ewe por
tion of the flock is not an overestimate, and then there is
the double-fleece yearly, which of itself will pay for the
whole flock and care of herding them.

ioo THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Church denominations represented in this county are the
Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist, Episcopal and Latter-
day Saints (Mormons), the latter at Tuba City only.
There are several well-edited papers published in the
county: the Flagstaff Democrat; Coconino Sun; William's
News and several others. The attention of the people is
very earnest in the matter of educating the rising genera
tion, and the schools are of superior quality and well sup
plied with competent teachers. At Flagstaff is the great
Normal school of the Territory with an able corps of teach
ers. Assessed valuation of property in 1903 amounted to
$3,677,959-54-

CHAPTER VII
Cochise County
The area of Cochise County is 6,972 miles, being about
the size of the combined areas of Rhode Island and Con
necticut. This county is bounded on the east by New
Mexico, on the south by the northern line of the Mexican
State of Sonora, on the west by Pima County, from which
it was taken entire, and on the north by the county of Gra
ham. By census of 1900 the population of this county was
9,251. Tombstone, the county-seat, by same census had a
population of 646, though, in its palmy days, it boasted of
a population of over 7,000; in the last few months it has
revived somewhat and a railroad is in process of construc
tion, which will go through the place striking the Arizona
and Sonora road at Fairbanks, upon the San Pedro River.
This county has three great valleys almost entirely within
its limits, which include a vast body of fine agricultural
land. Two of these valleys run directly across the whole
of the county from southeast to about northwest, viz., that
of the San Pedro and Sulphur Springs, while the valley of
the Rio de Sauz, or, as better known, San Simon, crosses
the northeastern corner. These valleys with their laterals,
embrace a large amount of fine agricultural land. What is
needed in all these valleys to render them great producers
of agricultural products is the development of water for ir
rigation. Upon the San Pedro, some seven miles south of
where the Southern Pacific Railroad crosses that stream,
the colony of industrious and energetic Mormons at St.
Davids commenced boring an artesian well and have suc-^
ceeded in fully fifty places in bringing a good flow to the
surface; others seeing what these enterprising men have

102 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
accomplished set to work and now for more than sixty
miles along this stream there are flowing wells at different
points. There are two distinct mountain ranges that run the en
tire distance across the county with the trend of the valleys,
that is, from southeast to about northwest, the great Chiri
cahua Range is the most easterly; and there is mineral at
many points and on both sides of this great upheaval. From
the vicinity of what is known as Railroad Pass, where the
Southern Pacific passes through the range from the Sul
phur Springs Valley into that of the San Simon, to, and
a little beyond, what is known as Apache Pass, may be
called a gold formation, as that is the predominating min
eral. This portion of the range is frequently called the
Dos Cabezas Range, though it is part of Chiricahua
Range. In this section are many valuable gold claims, both
in ledges and in surface washings. The great drawback
to the full .development of surface diggings is the scarcity
of water most of the year, but if the boring now in process
is a success that difficulty is obviated. In proceeding along
the range southeasterly from the Apache Pass, silver, cop
per and lead are encountered in many places, and there are
some valuable deposits of copper; about fifteen miles nearly
east from Apache Pass, over quite an extent of country on
the San Simon slope of the mountain range, is quite a show
ing of coal, but sufficient work has not been done to really
show it up.
In detached hills about seven miles south from Sulphur
Springs is the great Pearse Mine, which has produced
within about eight years a net profit to the fortunate owners
in gold and silver, and is still in successful operation, run
ning a mill of eighty-stamps' capacity after having yielded
in dividends something over $15,000,000. Some thirty
miles west of the Chiricahuas is the Dragoon Range of

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 103
mountains in which are many mines of great value and in
the continuation southerly, sometimes called Mule Moun
tains. The great copper camp of Bisbee is in the southern por
tion of this county some eight miles from the boundary
line of Sonora, Mexico, and a railroad from the camp enters
Sonora at the town of Naco and is already in operation.
There has been taken from the mines of this company, in
about twenty years' operations, a vast amount of treasure;
over $20,000,000 have been paid in dividends, and all im
provements, amounting to many millions more, have been
paid for. One item of improvement is a railroad of sixty
miles, built by the company to connect with the Southern
Pacific Railroad at Benson at the crossing of the San Pedro.
Tombstone is a great mining producer of silver and has
yielded in the various mines fully $15,000,000. The miners'
great strike of 1884 caused a suspension of work for a
time, and before they were ready to resume, silver had so
depreciated in value in the world's markets that it was
deemed resumption would be bad policy, and they have
practically remained idle ever since; though within the
last few months much work is being done, and new ma
chinery going -in looking to a full resumption. East of
Tombstone, some sixteen miles, is a flourishing camp called
Turquoise, which must eventually be a great producer.
There is the thriving town of Douglas, established upon
Blackwater, at the boundary line that has only been in ex
istence for a few months, and bids fair to become a place of
large commercial importance in a very short time.
From present indications it would appear that Cochise
County must stand well to the front as a producer for many
years to come, though Arizona throughout her hills and
mountains is so ribbed with mineral lodes that it is hard to
tell what portion will eventually prove of the most value,
but Cochise County for years to come will astonish the
world.

104 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Besides the great mines there are many others being
worked in a quiet way making the mine pay all expenses,
and the owners are, without ostentation, saving up com
fortable fortunes.
The school census shows there are 2,122 children of school
age and an average attendance at public schools of 1,826,
and forty-two teachers who would compare favorably with
any corps of teachers in any of the old States. The average
school term is a little over six months in each year.
Almost every town has its different denominational
church, and all are fairly supported. Tombstone has Catho
lic, Methodist, Episcopal and Baptist. Bisbee, Episcopal
(at the expense of the mining company), Catholic, Metho
dist, Presbyterian, Congregationalist, Baptist. St. Davids,
one church of Latter-day Saints (Mormons) ; Benson,
Catholic, Methodist and Episcopal. Willcox, Catholic,
Methodist, Baptist, — so it may be said, no man need suffer
for lack of spiritual food, though not always easy of
digestion. At Tombstone is published the Prospector; and at Bisbee
there are two papers, also, the rising town of Douglass,
though only a few months old, has two papers striving for
patronage. Willcox has one paper, the Range News; so
Cochise may be said to be well supplied with newspapers.

CHAPTER VIII
Gila County
Gila County has an area of 7,247 square miles, about
equal to that of the State of New Jersey. This county is
quite irregular in shape, and is bounded on the north by
Coconino and a portion of Apache Counties ; on the east
by Apache and Graham Counties ; on the south by Graham
and Pinal Counties; on the west by Pinal, Maricopa and
Yavapai Counties. The county-seat is Globe, the center of
a large mining region, and the terminus of the Gila Valley
and Globe Railroad, which connects with the Southern Pacific
Railroad at Bowie Station in San Simon Valley, Cochise
County. Gila is almost exclusively a mountain county,
and the great industry for many years will be mining and
work in connection with mines.
The population by census of 1900 was 4,973 and of Globe,
the county-seat, by same census, 1,495. This county was
created in 1881, at the eleventh legislative session of the
Territorial legislature, by taking territory from Yavapai
and Pinal Counties, its name is derived from the River Gila,
which forms a portion of its southern boundary; after its
first formation some 965 square miles were added from
Yavapai County.
Much of the best agricultural lands of this county are
embraced in the San Carlos Indian Reservation. The county
is largely mountainous and in many places abounds in min
erals, mostly copper, though the more precious minerals, as
gold and silver, are founiL-alsoT"'
The Salt River flows through the northern portion of the
county and farther in are some flourishing settlements, de
pendent upon the land they cultivate for their subsistence.

106 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
The Rio Solado or Salt River receives its name from the
salty or brackish taste of its waters, and many statements
have been put forth to account for this peculiarity of a
mountain stream. Some who would wish to have others
think they knew all things, and could give reasons off hand
for everything, have told of a vast bed of salt that the river
ran over on its course from the mountains to the valley,
and that the constant scouring and erosion wears off enough
of the rock salt to give all the waters of the lower stream
a saline taste. Upon investigation, however, it has been
ascertained that about north of the city of Globe is a small
mountain or hill of pure rock salt from which flows quite
a stream of very salt water, this stream flows into Salt
River and impregnates its waters from this point, as above
this junction the main stream is fresh. This stream of
salt water ought, if possible, to be diverted from flowing
into Salt River, as it may be that so much salinity in water
used for irrigation may impregnate the soil to such an ex
tent as in time to render it unproductive. One great
remedy after land has become sterile through the salinity
of water used for irrigation is to grow beets for several
crops, though it might be very inconvenient to many to do
this. This county has many natural wonders: in the northern
part the natural bridge, which spans Pine Creek, far sur
passes the world-famed Natural Bridge of Virginia.
Beneath this bridge are numerous caves, some not yet
explored. In this portion of the county many beautiful water
falls are found, and springs from which flow a sufficiency
of water to drive heavy machinery. There are warm springs
upon the San Carlos Reservation, believed by the Indians
to possess almost marvellous curative qualities. There is
much, also, to interest the scientist: evidences of a race of
humanity having lived here in the ages long past, the cliff
dwellers; and as for beautiful and imposing scenery, it
is here mapped out in rocky splendor for his admiration.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 107
The Pinal Mountain Range crosses the county south and
west and is heavily timbered; the Sierra Ancha and Ma-
zatsal Ranges on the north are covered also with a heavy
growth of pine, oak and juniper.
The main industry of this county is mining and from its
southern to its northern boundary minerals abound. The
Globe Copper Mines have paid largely from the start when
everything in connection with the mines had to be hauled
by mule wagons to and from Willcox upon the Southern
Pacific Railroad, a distance of about one hundred and fifty
miles. There is also within the bounds of this county the
San Carlos coal fields though but little has been done
towards developing this deposit.
The San Carlos Indian Reservation embraces much of the
county and probably fully one-half of the agricultural land ;
small portions are tilled by the Apaches in a desultory man
ner. Down Pinal Creek about twelve miles from Globe, at
a point where is living water at all seasons, is what is known
as the wheat fields. This land was cultivated, to a con
siderable extent, by the Apache Indians, who here planted
corn, pumpkins and beans long before there were any
white settlers in the vicinity. The land now by reason of
its productiveness and nearness to market is valued at a
higher figure. Within sight of this mountain divide lies
nearly all the farming land of the county. From the mouth
of Pima Creek it is about fifteen miles to the Box Canon
of Salt River. There are about four thousand acres of
land fenced in, and of this some two thousand acres are
devoted to the raising of grain. Much attention is also
given to the raising of stock. Tonto Creek joins the Salt
River just above the Box Canon from the north; the valley
of Tonto Creek is broad and is occupied for some twenty-
five miles by stockmen, who raise little produce excepting
hay. There are many evidences of a pre-historic race having
inhabited this country long before the advent of Europeans

108 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
upon this continent. Upon many of the hilltops there are
to be found the remains of stone structures, circular in
form, which seem to have been used either as a watch
tower or temple for sun worship, maybe for both purposes.
Is it to be wondered at that these primitive inhabitants
should worship the sun, to them the great creative power,
their darkened minds not having risen to a comprehension
of the Invisible, — "Him who kindled and who quenchest
suns." Upon many of the jutting cliffs are remains of
what were undoubtedly fortresses, constructed so as to over
look the valley below and exterior defences which com
manded all approaches.
A short distance below Greenback Creek are the remains
of an immense ruin on the mesa or plateau. The walls of
this ruin are yet standing to the height of six or eight feet
and are covered with debris. This structure was built of
gypsum; a large deposit of which underlies the country in
the neighborhood, cropping out when the upper covering
has been eroded sufficiently either through the action of
wind or water. Several irrigating canals can be traced
which must have required no mean engineering skill to
bring the water to the top of the table lands. Along the
small streams in the vicinity are marked out in cobble stones
long stretches of connected enclosures that must have been
rooms of houses. Some of these houses are as long as
half a mile, though narrow. Here in the long past must
have existed the inhabitants of a populous city. The wash
ings of centuries have mostly covered these antique dwell
ings until the sites now are but slightly marked on the
edges of the lowest plateau. Some very interesting re
mains, evidencing that there have been here an ancient peo
ple, are to be found to the south a few miles from Armer
Postoffice. Far up a narrow canon and reached only after an ex
haustive climb, a number of cliff dwellings are found. They

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 109
are all constructed after much the same plan. In the con
tact between the sandstone stratum and more ancient for
mation which underlies it, several large caves have been
worn out by action of wind and water. Across the wide
mouth was built a wall of cement, somewhat the shape of an
open oyster shell, and the interior was divided off into
rooms by partition walls of the same material. The man
ner by which the primitive inhabitants entered their dwell-'
ings was by means of a ladder or notched stick or log, up
the face of the cliff maybe fifteen or twenty feet to the
level of the roof, then through a hole in the roof by draw
ing up the ladder and placing it down this aperture, a de
scent could be made into the dwelling,' then by letting down
and fastening the trap door and removing the ladder all
would be secure against external foes. Nothing short of
heavy ordnance would prove effective against these forti
fied dwellings, even up to the present day. The largest
cave of this group is about one hundred feet long, by forty
feet deep, and twenty feet in height at the face ; there were
within, some dozen rooms arranged upon three floors ; the
floors were of neatly dressed cedar logs upon which were
laid, crosswise and close as they could be together, ribs of
the giant cactus, and upon these, flags and a clay dressing.
The woodwork in these caves is in an excellent state of
preservation; the condition for preserving relics of a long
past era could nowhere be found nearer perfection.
The climate is free from humidity and through the long
lapse of ages not a drop of moisture has reached the in
terior of these caves. The probability seems to be that they
were used as a place of refuge, a dernier resort by those
people who cultivated the valleys, and these fortresses were
kept victualed and guarded so that on the approach of a
foe too strong for them to encounter in the open field, the
inhabitants withdrew into these strongholds until the storm
of invasion should pass on.

no THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
The mountain scenery of this county is very grand and
fully equal to that of Switzerland which has been the theme
for ages of the historian, the tourist and the poet. The
schools are good and well attended, showing that education
is not neglected by her energetic and prosperous people.
The churches, also, are well attended and supported. When
Gila was first created a county organization (1881),
there was not a single church within its boundaries, though
the Latter-day Saints (Mormons) held meetings in pri
vate houses. Since that time many of the different de
nominations have erected houses of worship, until the re
ligious requirements of the people are fairly well attended
to. There are some thirty-three public schools within the
county, employing about forty competent teachers. At
Thatcher is located an academy maintained by the Mormon
Church organization; so a fair business education can be
obtained by every child without leaving the Gila Valley.
The secret orders are ably represented and have many
valuable buildings and their humanizing influence, as al
ways, has a powerful effect for the good of society. The
most prominent are, perhaps, in about the order named:
Masons, Odd Fellows and Elks. Of benevolent societies
the A. O. U. W. stands prominent. There are two weekly
papers published at Globe and both seem to be doing well.
Assessable valuation of property of this county for 1903
amounted to $1,541,924.

CHAPTER IX
Graham County
Graham County has an area of 6,500 square miles, nearly
the size of Massachusetts, and is bounded on the north by
Gila, Navajo and Apache Counties ; on the east, by New
Mexico ; on the south by Cochise, and on the west by Pinal
and Gila Counties, and is bisected from east to west by the
Gila River.
Soldmonville, the county-seat, is situated on the south
side of the Gila River, and a line of railroad connects it
with the Southern Pacific at Bowie Station. This line of
road strikes into the valley of the Gila at Solomonville, and
continues on down the same to the San Carlos, some fifty
miles, where it crosses the Gila to the north side, and is
finished as far as Globe in Gila County. At some future
day this road will be extended from Globe to connect with
the Atlantic and Pacific system at some point which may
then be deemed most advantageous to the interests of those
who may then be concerned.
Along the Gila River from Solomonville, down to the
San Carlos Indian Reservation, are thriving towns and
many fine farms ; a very thriving settlement, principally
Mormons, who. by their industry and thrift, have made this
valley to blossom as the rose. This is a great mining
county; the extensive mines of Clifton and Morenci are
within its boundaries. These mines produce, and have been
producing for several years, a revenue to the fortunate
owners which many an eastern principality might deem
to be a sufficient cause of congratulation.
There is a railroad from these mines connecting with the
m

112 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Southern Pacific at Lordsburg, in New Mexico, some forty-
one miles of this railroad are in this county. There will,
eventually, be many other mines in this county worked at.
a large profit as the mining interest is in its infancy, ex
cepting at two or three points. This county was created
into a separate county by the eleventh legislature in 1881,
by taking a part from Pima and Apache Counties.
The county is mountainous, with many rich valleys and
fertile tracts along the foothills. The Gila River runs en
tirely through the county with many windings, but a gen
eral west course, and along it is much fine land well adapted
to the raising of fruits and cereals, and much of it, in the
last twenty years has been highly cultivated.
Fort Goodwin, some thirty-five miles below where Solo
monville now is, was established by order of General James
H. Carleton in 1864 for the purpose of overawing the Chiri
cahua and Pinal and White Mountain Apache Indians under
their renowned leader, Cochise, who during those years,
and up to 1872, kept the whole country in a state of terror.
The first settlers upon the Gila in this county were of
Mexican descent and pitched their camp at San Jose about
one and one-half miles above Solomonville, and the same
year a settlement was commenced at that place. The set
tlement was first called Munsonville on account of William
Munson starting a little store there. Munson soon sold
out to I. E. Solomon and the place changed the name to
the present one.
The Latter-day Saints (Mormons) came in from Utah
and settled in the valley in 1880, and formed several set
tlements upon the Gila River below Safford ; dug irrigation
canals and began developing the resources of the valley
until at the present time, by their thrift and industry, they
have that portion of the Gila Valley as productive as any
portion of the West. The valley of Salt River about Phce
nix is larger in area but not more productive per acre. The
population of this county by census of 1900 is 14,162, an

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 113
increase of two hundred and fifty per cent in a decade.
Mount Graham which is but a continuation of the Chiri
cahua Range on the northwest, is at the highest portion,
10,318 feet above sea level. Mount Turnbull, a separate
peak, but a prolongation of the range upon the northwest
trend is nearly as lofty. The elevation of the valley of the
Gila is, at the San Carlos, about three thousand feet, while
at the eastern line of the county, some seventy miles to the
eastward the altitude will reach about four thousand feet.
In hottest summer the weather gets quite warm and at mid
day or a little later in the day the thermometer frequently
indicates in the shade ioo° or even a few degrees over that,
but high mountains being so close at hand on every side
nights are cool and pleasant even at this season of the year.
In winter, snow sometimes covers the ground, though it
does not lie on any great length of time.
Graham County is well supplied with schools, and the Lat=
ter-day Saints have paid particular attention to this requisite
of an intelligent people. They not only have public schools
at short intervals along the Gila Valley, but have estab
lished an academy in the valley under able instructors,
where a classical education can be obtained at a reasonable
cost. Of churches there are many; the different sects be
ing well represented; perhaps, the Mormons in the agri
cultural portions predominate. Of newspapers there are
several ably edited. Secret societies as Masons, Odd Fel
lows, and Elks, are well represented and W. C. T. U. is in a
flourishing condition. This county bids fair to be the ban
ner county of Arizona in population and productive wealth
at the next census decade. Assessed valuation of property
in 1903 for taxation, $3,953>255-I5-
There are in Graham County great possibilities that are
but beginning to be developed. There is considerable fine
land for agricultural purposes up the San Simon from
where it enters the Gila River near Solomonville to the
north line of Cochise County. What is required to make

ii4 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
it very productive is that artesian water be developed as the
San Simon River itself will not afford water in sufficient
quantity oftener than one year in five to irrigate the bottom
lands along it.
The main agricultural land of this county lies along the
Gila River commencing some miles above Solomonville
and extending down the river some forty miles, where it
enters Gila County. For some twenty miles down the river
from Solomonville, the Latter-day Saints (Mormons), have
made of lands along the river an agricultural paradise.
Land that was deemed of little value but a few years
ago, has been reclaimed and rendered fertile by bring
ing water from the Gila River in sufficient quantities in
aqueducts or ditches to irrigate the thirsty soil as needed.
This has been done by these energetic and industrious peo
ple without asking aid of the Federal Government. Fine
roads have been constructed; turnpiked, and wherever
ditches or water channels crossed the line of road good and
substantial bridges are put in. Trees have been planted on
each side of the roads through their whole distance.
The fields are separated from each other by substantial
fences and are kept in fine repair. Immense crops of grain
and hay are raised every year, and have generally brought
remunerative prices, so, as a general thing, these sturdy
farmers are in independent circumstances. They live prin
cipally in fine brick houses, large and commodious, sur
rounded by gardens and flowers, and in almost every in
stance in a grove of beautiful trees.
There are several important towns along the river, the
principal of which are Pima, Thatcher, Safford and Solo
monville. Solomonville is, at present, the county-seat and
has a population of about two thousand people. Safford,
probably, has about the same number.
The old, reliable firm of Solomon, Wickersham & Com
pany is much in evidence along the Gila River from Solo
monville down to the county boundary. This firm has a

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 115
wholesale house at both Safford and Solomonville and a
bank in both places of which the firm owns the main por
tion, one partner, Mr. Wickersham, being president and
Mr. Solomon, vice-president.
This county has some very valuable copper mines in the
northeastern part, on some tributaries of the Gila River,
that come in from the north, viz., the mining town of Mor
enci, upon the San Francisco River, and Clifton, where are
the smelting works, upon the east branch of El Tularosa.
These towns are about seven miles apart. Clifton is reached
by a regular graded railroad from Lordsburg, New Mexico,
and a narrow-gauge road through a canon up to Morenci.
Morenci is the great business town of fully six thousand
people. The company store here among the mountains,
inaccessible a few years ago by other than pack animals, is
as fine as any in the southwest, excepting Los Angeles, and
it may be doubted if surpassed there; it carries a stock of
fully $500,000. The hotel here is fine and prices to match.
In these two towns of Clifton and Morenci there are fully
10,000 people. Sometimes more in one town than in the
other, as labor is required.
The sole dependence of this large population is upon the
output of the mines as there is practically nothing else, there
being no agricultural land in that vicinity. Metcalf is an
other flourishing town some miles further in the mountains,
and the whole depends upon the mines. The capital ex
pended in smelters, hoisting works, machinery of the
most expensive kind, railroads, etc., would mount up to
several millions, — all depending upon copper. The ore is
of low percentage in copper, but to compensate there are
vast bodies of it. To make it remunerative to the stock
holder requires the utmost economy in management, still
the company has expended money upon a liberal scale.
The mining companies have been having much difficulty
with their workmen through strikes; laborers demanding
the same pay for eight as for ten hours' work. Probably

116 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
in a short time this matter will be adjusted satisfactorily
and matters move on as usual.
A legislature, perhaps, had the legal right to say what
number of hours should constitute a day's work, but the
whole thing would seem to be one of those sumptuary laws
not at this day considered as appertaining to the duties of
law givers, and likely to be of more harm than benefit, even
to those whom it was intended to favor. The valuation .of
assessable property in this county for the year 1903 was
$3,953,255-15-

CHAPTER X
Maricopa County
This county has an area of 8,816 square miles, and is a
little larger than the State of Massachusetts, with her great
history. This county is bounded on the north by Yavapai
County, on the east by Gila County and a portion of Pinal,
on the south by a portion of Pinal and Pima Counties and
on the west by Yuma County. At the census of 1900 the
population of this county was 20,457, Dut now ^ must vei7
nearly come up to 30,000 as the registration of voters this
current year (1902), is within a few of 5,000, which shows
a very heavy increase.
Phcenix is the county-seat, as well as the capital of the
Territory, and is pleasantly situated in the valley of the
Salt River, some twenty miles above where the Salt and
Gila unite. Phcenix is a rapidly growing city, and one of
great possibilities, being the center of the most extensive
agricultural valley in the Territory, and has an extensive
and rich mining region tributary to it.
This city is upon the site, or much of it, of an ancient
prehistoric city inhabited by an agricultural people away
back in the past, long before Europeans set foot upon the
American continent.
Great aqueducts can be traced for miles that the Indians,
as we have known them, never dug and of which the
modern Pimas have no tradition. The Pimas say these
things were there when they came to the country. There
can be no doubt but that this portion of Arizona was once
inhabited by a people partially civilized, who carried the
engineering art to at least considerable perfection, as far as
conducting water from streams for irrigating the thirsty
117

118 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
soil is concerned. The remains of canals and aqueducts
for irrigation would indicate an engineering knowledge to
equal that of the ancient Egyptians, but of whom all rec
ord except these aqueducts and some ruined walls, are lost
in the night of time.
Maricopa County was created by taking that portion of
Yavapai south of latitude 34° and west of the San Carlos
at the sixth session of the territorial legislature; at the
seventh legislative session a portion of Pima County, north
of 32 ° 34' and west of longitude 112" 6', was made a por
tion of this county. The county is somewhat in the shape of
an "L." Since its creation into a county parts have been
cut off. When Pinal County was formed, in 1875, a slice
was taken off and another in 1881 was taken off and given
to Gila County.
This is the great agricultural county of the Territory, as
a large part of it is a vast plain sloping towards the Verdi,
the Salt and Gila Rivers, being an amount of irrigable land
greater than in all the rest of the counties of the Territory
put together. The Verdi River runs through quite a por
tion of the county from the north and joins the Salt River
some thirty-five miles above Phcenix, while the Salt and
Gila Rivers unite about twenty-five miles below or south
westerly from Phcenix. In the valleys of these three streams
are some 3,000,000 acres and all that is requisite. to make
it very productive is water and proper cultivation to pro
duce the necessary moisture. The valley of Salt River
contains nearly a million of acres in one body, one vast
plain. The soil is of the richest, and as fast as canals or aque
ducts can be gotten out to conduct the water upon the land
all fruits, vegetables and cereals are produced in great
abundance, as well as grasses, equal to the fertility of the
Nile Valley of Egypt, which away back in the dim past,
was called the granary of the then civilized world.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 119
The water used for irrigation seems to have a renewing
influence upon the soil as much of the land has been used
for nearly thirty years and yet no decrease in the per acre
yield. Two crops a year, in many instances, are produced upon
the same land, viz., barley or wheat, sown about November,
and harvested the following June; then a crop of corn or
beans, with pumpkins galore and harvested and out of the
way in time for next crop of wheat or barley. Of alfalfa,
hay, fine cuttings each year of about an average of two
tons to the acre each cutting can be produced and the
average price to be obtained fully six dollars per ton at the
farm. Everything grown in the temperate zone is pro
duced in lavish abundance in the semi-tropical climate of
this great valley. Among fruits produced are the follow
ing: oranges, lemons, quinces, figs, apples, pears, necta
rines, peaches, apricots, olives, almonds, strawberries,
grapes, plums and dates.
Of cereals and grasses there are produced wheat, oats,
barley, rye, corn, buckwheat, cotton, tobacco, broomcorn,
hemp, flax, sugar cane, alfalfa, blue grass, timothy and
clover. Vegetables give a most prolific yield, except potatoes; as
the climate of summer is too warm for the tubers. This
valley of Salt River is capable of an almost unlimited va
riety of productions, but in fruit cultivation it must look for
its greatest prosperity. With the exception of some fa
vored spots in the Colorado Desert, as around Indio, upon
the Southern Pacific Railroad, there is not a region be
tween the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans which possesses the
natural advantages for the successful prosecution of this
industry that these great valleys of Gila and Salt River
in the vicinity of Phcenix do. Owing to earlier spring, or
more rapid growth of vegetation, the fruits in these valleys
are ripe and ready for market from two to three weeks
earlier than those grown about Los Angeles. This gives

120 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
the Arizona fruit-raiser a great advantage, being enabled
to dispose of his entire crop without competition. The fig
yields two and not unfrequently three crops a year; the
white adriatic variety is most popular and as much at home
here, as on the hills of its native Dalmatia. Figs grown
here have been pronounced by competent judges, to be the
equal in all respects to those grown at Smyrna. There are
but few places on the globe where the fig can be success
fully cultivated, and the success attending its raising here
will render this great valley in -Maricopa County, Arizona,
celebrated throughout the civilized world. Figs are a
more profitable crop than oranges for the producer. The
largest fig orchards in the United States are probably in
this Salt River Valley, though within the last few years
Southern California has largely cultivated this delicious
fruit. Water brings life and productiveness to the soil. By its
agency the barren desert is made to bring forth grasses,
flowers and forest trees, while cultivation makes it yield
fruits and all grains requisite for the wants and sustenance
of the human race. The prosperity of nations is and al
ways has been resting upon the prosperity of agriculture,
and, therefore, the wisest statesmen have always protected
the agriculturalist — the producer from the ground — and it is
a fact, beyond cavil, the producer has to bear the brunt of
the exactions of government, be that government autocratic,
theocratic or republican in form.
Irrigation is the bringing of water onto the land as gen
erally understood to take the place of rains, and is only
necessary in countries and sections of countries where rains
are not to be depended upon.
Canals, ditches, aqueducts or acequias are constructed
for the purpose of conducting water from springs or streams
out upon the land requiring moisture, in many instances
from a portion of the surplus waters of rivers at flood.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 121
Artificial ponds or lakes are filled up; stored as it were, in
reservoirs, to be used upon the thirsty land during the dry
season. To irrigate is, correctly speaking, to water, but as gener
ally understood, it means, by artificial appliances to bring
water upon land to moisten it for the purpose of rendering
land productive which otherwise would remain barren ex
cepting for a short time when rains might visit that section,
and these rains coming at such long intervals or in such
small quantities as to be practically of little value. Could the
great valley of the Gila and Salt Rivers be thoroughly ir
rigated, a sufficiency of grains, fruits and vegetables could
be produced to supply a population of a million inhabitants.
Phcenix has communication by railroad with the South
ern Pacific road at Maricopa, via Wickenberg, and
Prescott, with the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad at Ash Fork
and soon will have a railroad direct to El Paso and the
east via San Pedro, Benson, Bisbee and Douglass, and an
other railroad direct to the Colorado River and connect
ing with the California system and Pacific ports. An en
terprise is now contemplated that will place a dam across
Salt River just below where Tonto Creek empties into it
which will create a reservoir or lake capable of placing one
foot of water over three hundred thousand additional acres
in the valleys of Salt and Gila Rivers each year, which
would vastly increase the output of these valleys. It is
highly probable that artesian water will be developed in con
siderable quantities which would be used to swell the amount
of land that is irrigated.
The city of Phcenix was formed and received its name in
1870. The name was believed to have been given or was
selected by Darrel Dupper, an Englishman by birth, a
valuable and enterprising citizen and a highly educated
man. He explained that the Phcenix was a bird of
wondrous plumage and vocal powers; not perpetuated in
the usual manner, but which lived for five hundred

122 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA •
years; then after singing its funeral chant, in a voice of
great sweetness, it prepared its charnel house and entered;
the house took fire by spontaneous combustion and it, with
contents, were consumed; from the ashes arose a new
and glorified bird to pass through its allotted course ; a self
life-sustaining bird which knew not death, a shadow of im
mortality to which all of woman born are aspiring. The
name of Phcenix and the explanation of Darrel Dupper
were received with shouts of approval, and the name of
Phcenix adopted for the new city as it would be upon
the site where had been a city in prehistoric times ; remains
of an ancient civilization that has passed down the stream
of time and left no record. Darrel Dupper, although a
younger son of an English aristocratic family when he
came to Arizona, lived to inherit the title of Lord Dupper
in his native country, though he never returned to England,
but died in the beautiful valley he had helped to settle and
adorn. The patent for the townsite of Phcenix was not received
until 1874 from the United States Government. The first
town lot sold was for one hundred and four dollars, and
purchased by Judge Berry and the first house erected within
the townsite limits was an adobe structure built by W. A.
Hancock. The capital of the Territory was removed from Prescott
to Phcenix by the legislature of 1889, and this gave Phcenix
an additional importance. A fine Capitol has since
been erected which is an honor, not only to Phcenix, but
to the whole Territory as well. In addition to the great
agricultural possibilities of Maricopa County, its mountains
are filled with minerals. The valley of the Gila and Salt
River is one vast amphitheatre surrounded by mountains.
As early as 1863 the Vulture Mine, some sixty miles
northwesterly from Phoenix, was discovered and opened
when there was no Maricopa but all Yavapai County. Since
that time some ten millions of dollars in gold have been

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 123
taken from that mine, and it is barely opened yet. From
the Harqua Hala Mines, also, large values have been taken.
It is not deemed necessary in this work to go over the dif
ferent mines and mining camps of this county in detail.
Were the rest of Arizona a desert still from the great pro
ductiveness of the valley of Salt and Gila Rivers, within
the county limits, together with its mines and other natural
facilities would make a great and self-supporting, populous
State by the industry and energy of its inhabitants.
The different religious denominations are well repre
sented showing that its people are moral and law-abiding,
and are looking forward to a life beyond this transitory
world. Some fine church edifices have been erected. There
are Catholics, Episcopals, Presbyterians, Lutherans, Metho
dists (north and south), Free Methodists, Baptists, Con-
gregationalists, Latter-day Saints (Mormons), Salvation
"Army. There are three Indian reservations within the
county, viz., Papago, at Gila Bend, the Pima and Maricopa,
near Phcenix. These Indians show an eagerness to adopt
civilized ways and habits and have ever been friendly to
the whites. Of schools the wants of the people are well
supplied, and are constantly on the increase, both in num
bers and efficiency, as wealth and population increases.
As now conducted there are several institutions of learn
ing where young persons can be fitted to enter and compete
for the prizes of scholarship at Yale or Harvard Colleges,
or other similar institutions. Many of these preparatory
schools are in charge of instructors of the. highest mental
attainments and are not excelled for efficiency by any in the
land. There is an able corps of doctors that for skill in their
profession are ranked with the ablest in the country. The
lawyers are among the ablest of any country as expounders
and judges in jurisprudence. Of newspapers, Phcenix, her
county is well and ably supplied, and some of her papers
rank with the mammoth papers of much larger cities.

124 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Maricopa County in some respects may be called the
banner county of Arizona. In natural agricultural facili
ties it is unequalled, in fact, hardly understood or ap
preciated. What the next fifty years will develop in the
Salt River Valley can not now be realized.
This county contains other flourishing cities besides
Phcenix. Tempe is a beautiful city on the Salt River's
southern bank where the railroad to Maricopa crosses that
stream, and has a population of about 3,000 people, and bids
fair to be a city of importance.
Mesa is another fine city and with the railroad facilities
that are building and the fine agricultural country sur
rounding it, must continue to grow in importance. In as
sessable value of property this county stands away ahead,
being nearly double that of the heaviest of the other coun
ties of Arizona, viz., $10,315,111.47 for the year 1903.
There is at Phcenix, in this county, or within about four
miles from the state-house or Capitol, one of the finest Indian
schools in the Territory, if not in the southwest.
There is something near six hundred Indian children at
this school under an efficient corps of teachers, and the
whole vast establishment is managed with the regularity
and precision of a military camp. I saw here some young
ladies of pure Indian blood graceful and accomplished who
would preside with grace in any drawing room.
Education will do much, but to learn to have the patience
to labor and save the products of that labor is the road that
leads up from a savage state to civilization for earth's chil
dren. It is the one thing needful for savages to learn, and
without it the accomplishments of civilized life amount to
nothing, as whenever the hand of government is with
drawn, and these wards are left to themselves, they relapse
to the savage state.

CHAPTER XI
Mojave County
This county has an area of 13,421 square miles, or a little
over one-fourth the size of the State of New York. This
county is one of the original counties into which the Ter
ritory of Arizona was divided by the first legislature that
met at Prescott, in 1864, excepting a small portion, a remnant
of Pai Ute County, which was added later. The main por
tion of the Pai Ute County was, by act of Congress, attached
to Nevada.
This county is bounded on the north by a portion of the
State of Nevada and Utah, on the east by the counties of
Coconino and Yavapai, on the south by the county of Yuma
and on the west by the states of California and Nevada.
The population of this county by census of 1900 was
3,426. The county-seat is Kingman, which is a place of
considerable commercial importance, situated upon the line
of the Santa Fe and Pacific Railroad. From this point a
road puts off to the north or nearly so, some thirty-five
miles to a town called Chloride, which road will eventually
be continued on into Nevada and connect with the Pacific
Coast system. Up to the present time this is almost ex
clusively a mining county and some of the great producing
mines of the Pacific slope are within its boundaries, yet
her mountains have only been scratched over. Labor, ju
diciously applied, will yet make Mojave County one of the
richest gems of earth as far as producing the precious metals
will go toward such a result.
The Hualapi Indian Reservation lies partially in this
county, and the lower portion of the Grand Canon of the
Colorado. This county was among the earliest worked
125

126 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
for the precious metals which may be attributed to its prox
imity to the Colorado River, as for a long distance that river
separates it from California on the west and finally nearly
bisects the county from east to west.
The Hualapi Indians were very troublesome in an
early day, and even after Americans began to come in and
locate for the purpose of working the mines, many were
butchered and their bones left to bleach on hill and plain.
Mining in this county has been continuously conducted
since 1864 at an immense profit to the fortunate owners. At
or about this time the California Volunteers succeeded in
subduing the Indians and placing them upon reservations,
thus permitting the entrance of settlers, however, active
settlement did not really commence until 1871 owing to the
sullen hostility of these Indians.
The fame of the mines then began to be bruited abroad
and in a short time many were opened and permanent set
tlements were assured. The earliest prospecting done in
the limits of what is now Mojave County was in 1857-8,
when many very important discoveries were made in the
Sacramento Valley, but no great progress was made be
fore 1863-4, owing to before mentioned Indian hostility.
The first settlements of American miners were in the
Hualapi, Peacock and Cerbat Mountain Ranges, just be
fore the outbreak of the Civil War. Since its organization
as a county it has been the scene of active mining opera
tions and in fact much mining was carried forward in this
county when but little was done in any of the other coun
ties of Arizona, and for some years the only communica
tion with the outside world was by the long, tedious and
uncertain route of the Colorado River and its development
was in consequence slow.
There is in the county an immense amount of land, say
600,000 acres, that could be rendered productive by bring
ing water upon it, which can be done by means of irrigat
ing canals from the Colorado River. The lands of Hualapi

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 127
Valley, of which there are something over 400,000 acres,
will produce small grains without irrigation, and if irri
gated will raise all crops known to this latitude.
Of minerals, gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, antimony,
and turquoise are the principal ones of value. It is a cause
of regret to many that there is only one church within the
limits of the county, says one historian, but in making such
a statement the author shows his views of "church" to be
narrow, as when that passage was written the Methodists
had a church at Kingman. The self-styled Latter-day
Saints (Mormons) had a settlement in a valley up next
the Utah line, and wherever they had a settlement or stake,
was a place of worship. Of schools the county is well sup
plied, well taught and well attended.
In Kingman is a fine brick schoolhouse capable of ac
commodating two hundred pupils and at Kingman two good
papers are published.
This county will, at no distant day, support a large popu
lation, but at present it takes too large an outlay of capital
to bring water upon her uplands, and to open up her vast
mineral deposits, to be available for men of limited means.

CHAPTER XII
Navajo County
Navajo County has an area of 9,826 square miles, and
is nearly the size of the State of Maryland. By the census
of 1900 the population was 8,829 or less than one to each
square mile of territory. The boundaries of this county are
as follows: on the north by the State of Utah, on the east
by Apache County, on the south by Graham and Gila Coun
ties, on the west by Gila and Coconino Counties.
There are parts of two Indian reserves in this county,
viz. : Moquis and Navajos. Nearly the whole county is
mountainous and it is claimed there are fine prospects of
coal, as well as most of the other minerals. Holbrook is the
county-seat, and is a place of some considerable importance,
being situated upon the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad. This
county was formed out of Apache County by act of the
Territorial legislature, March 21, 1895. The county proper
or so much of it as is not included in Indian reservations,
is about one hundred miles long north and south, by some
fifty east and west. The main industries are cattle and
sheep raising and cultivating the soil.
Scattered throughout the county are many points of
special interest, such as the world famous Petrified Forest,
the Painted Desert, the great Natural Bridge in the north
ern part, while scattered from one end of the county
to the other are ruins of prehistoric cities. North
of the line of the railroad that crosses the county are in
dications of a heavy deposit of coal. Coal is also found
near Show Low and in the White Mountains, but so far
not in quantity and only of inferior quality. There are
several salt lakes some thirty miles south of Navajo Station
128

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 129
on the Atlantic Railroad, where an excellent dairy and table
salt are produced.
The people pay great attention to schools and upon an
average have their public schools taught by efficient teach
ers, seven months in each year. There are a goodly num
ber of places of religious worship, mostly of the Latter-
day Saints (Mormon) persuasion. So far there is but
one newspaper published in the county, styled Winslow
Mail. With the hardy, industrious, economical and honest
population, this county will, in a very short time, be a great
wealth producer.

CHAPTER XIII
Pinal County
Pinal County was organized in 1875 from portions of
Pima, Maricopa and Yavapai and contains an area of 5,368
square miles, and had, by census of 1900, a population of
7,779 exclusive of Indians. The boundaries of this county
are as follows: on the north, Maricopa and Gila Counties;
on the east, Gila and Graham Counties ; on the south, Pima
County, and on the west by the County of Maricopa.
Every county of Arizona is very important on account of
some product or products useful and beneficial to the human
family, either in arts, commerce or subsistence. Pinal
County has, within its boundaries, the elements to be of
great use to the world. There are fully six hundred thou
sand acres of land, and all that is lacking to render it as
productive as any in the world is water, which can be sup
plied by a system of reservoir storage of what now is al
lowed to run to waste. The Gila River runs directly through
this county from east to west, and at times carries a vast
body of water. At such times a sufficient amount should
be deflected to fill the necessary reservoirs to spread over
the land as needed when the river has receded. It is tra
versed from west to east by the Southern Pacific Railroad
and a road puts off from the Southern Pacific at Maricopa
and runs about north to Phoenix in Maricopa, and on via
Wickenburg and Prescott in Yavapai County to the Atlan
tic and Pacific Railroad at Ash Fork.
Florence, the county-seat, is in the fertile valley of the
Gila on the southern side and is a flourishing town of about
1,500 inhabitants, some twenty-seven miles north from the

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 131
Southern Pacific Railroad, with which it is connected by a
daily stage at the station of Casa Grande.
In making the trip to and from the railroad to Florence
the stage passes in sight of the old Casa Grande ruins, which
have stood in the desert like the sphinx of Egypt watch
ing earth's slowly revolving centuries from times anterior
to written records of America.
This evidence at least of the partial civilization of a pre
historic people stands in the midst of a great plain that
might be rendered very productive if only a sufficiency of
water would be gotten to it. The ancient builders of the
structure brought water from the Gila by means of an
acequia or canal, some thirty miles in length, the course of
which can be traced today. The water would not flow in
the canal at all times, though the supposition is the river
then carried a larger flow of water than it now does.
A reservoir was constructed inside the enclosure of the
Casa Grande, where quite a body of water could be im
pounded for emergencies, showing that the structure was
erected for defensive purposes. From the construction of
this old building it must be inferred that it was intended
for defense against the assaults of a primitive enemy, for
while the works would be impregnable to an enemy armed
only with spears and bows and arrows, they could not long
hold out against the ordnance of this day.
Arizona is at once the oldest and newest country now
composing a portion of the United States. Something over
three hundred and sixty years ago Alvar Cabeza de Vaca,
Andres Durantly, Alonzo del Castillo Meldonado, and
Estevan, a negro slave, were the first Europeans to set foot on
Arizona soil. From what can be gleaned from the old rec
ords it would seem probable that the African slave, Estevan,
was really the pioneer into Arizona, as he seems to have
been a man of great physical strength and energy, who
kept mostly in the advance, driven on by his temperament,
and love of . adventure ; maybe his passion for the native

132 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
women urged him forward, as an attempt to gratify his
passion cost him his life among the jealous Zuni Indians.
This party was shipwrecked in 1527 on the coast of
Florida; made captives by the Indians and held for seven
years. Upon escaping from captivity they made their way
over great plains, through forests, over mountains and
across rivers to New Mexico and Arizona, and thence to
Culiacan in Mexico.
De Soto is credited with discovering the Mississippi
River, yet this party crossed that stream ten years before
he stood upon its banks ; visited the Moqui and Zuni vil
lages, where was found a peaceful, semi-civilized people,
a full quarter of a century earlier than the first settlement
of St. Augustine, Florida, and nearly a century earlier than
the vaunted landing of the Pilgrim Fathers upon the
canonized Plymouth Rock.
After leaving these peaceful villages of Indians, Cabeza
de Vaca and his party proceeded south and visited the Casa
Grande, even then in ruins. An inquisitive mind cannot
look upon this ancient building, knowing its history for
over three hundred years and that 'it was a ruin at that
time, without asking himself the question, "By whom was
it erected and what has become of the builders?" No
written records have come down to us, we know only from
their irrigating canals and methods of defense that they
ever existed. Who were those enemies it was necessary
to fortify against and • where did they come from ? The
Indians of today, Pimas, Papagoes or Maricopas have no
traditions of the builders of these fortifications, but say the
ruins were there as now when they first came into the
country. Does it not appear to be a fact, demonstrated by the ruins,
that there have been many attempts to struggle toward
civilization, on the part of different portions of the human
race at different times and in different portions of the

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 133
world. Some have been destroyed by convulsions of na
ture; others by invasions of savage, but more warlike peo
ple, while others have slowly decayed by the lapse of time
and the changing of commercial centers. Egypt is the great
example that carried the arts and sciences far, in fact we
can never know how far; her monuments that have falsely
been styled everlasting attest her knowledge of geometry
and astronomy equal, where applied, to anything now
known, while we are driven to her monuments and her
tombs to ascertain her hoary history. O Egypt, thy sphinx
is emblematic of thee! Thy stony eyes have looked out
over the Egyptian deserts for more than sixty centuries
known to written history; hast seen empires rise and go
down through the lapse of time, yet keepest thine own
secrets. Our most profound thinkers discovered amid the
mass of fable regarding the past, a few broken threads of
truth, but how much of the history of the world and its
inhabitants is shrouded in impenetrable darkness and must
ever so remain.
The human race has passed through many changes in its
progress from savagedom towards civilization. Each body
of land of any size found in the oceans that occupy much
of the earth's surface has had human beings, or at least
animals having the human form upon them, many of them
in the lowest state of savagedom ; some so low as to eat
their food raw, not having advanced to the use of fire ; and
the natives of the Andaman Islands have just now arrived
to the use of fire.
Asia, Africa, Europe, America, have all had their cave-
dwellers, and, where practicable, lake-dwellers. Away
back in past times and in parts of Africa today are found
the cave and lake-dwellers and through a great extent of
Central Africa, the natives are yet cannibals. Whether the
human race became scattered over all the earth as is re
corded in the rather legendary Semitic records, when lan
guages were confounded at the Tower of Babel, or
whether separate continents developed separate Adams and

134 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Eves matters little in the discussion; each appears to have
started from lowly beginnings and pursued about the same
course toward civilization; some have become more ad
vanced than others. Some are today in the full fruition of
an advanced civilization, others have disappeared and left
only broken and decaying evidences that they have ex
isted. While it is true that there are large bodies of low-grade
ores in Pinal County at this writing, there are few mines
producing. This may be in part owing to the low price of
silver in comparison with what it was some years ago. The
Great Mammoth Mine that has in the past produced largely
would now be lying idle were it not for the tailings that
were considered of no value now being worked over for
the metal known as molybdenum by a distinguished metal
lurgist to good advantage to himself as he continues to
work some forty men.
I find the following description of a mining region now
within the boundaries of this county embraced in an official
report made to the Federal Government by one of its com
petent engineers as long ago as i860. Deeming that this
report will be more likely to meet the eye of some one who
will be interested, I insert below the main portion of the
report upon a particular location:
"Maricopa Lode. — This lode sometimes called Gray's
Mine, situated about seventy miles north of Tucson and
four miles south of the Gila River, is considered one of
the best copper deposits in southern Arizona. Mr. Gray
thus describes the vein in a general report made in i860:
" 'The formation of the district is primitive, chiefly
granite, and sienite, with metamorphic and sedimentary
rocks, and injected dikes of trap and quartz. The lode
was traced and measured 1,600 feet, having a width of from
eight to twelve feet plainly marked by its walls and out
cropping ore. The veinstone is quartz with seams of ar
gentiferous copper ore, at the surface a few inches wide,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 135
but which at six feet down appears nearly solid, covering
the greater part of the lode. The copper-glance and gray
ore predominate, though at top the carbonates and silicates
were intermixed. A branch vein shows itself near the place
of greatest development. Here it traverses an elongated
hill intersecting it lengthwise, and protruding above the
surface from one end of the hill to the other, a distance of
seven hundred feet. The hill is sixty to one hundred and
twenty-five feet higher than the valleys and ravines sur
rounding it, and slopes for half a mile in the direction of
the lode to the west, when the ground descends northward
towards the Gila at a rate of two hundred and fifty feet to
the mile. The course of the lode is very regular, north
84^ ° east or %Yi° north of true east and 5J4° south of
true west. The dip is to the north, and about 75 ° from the
horizon, very nearly vertical as far as could be observed.
The elevation of the Maricopa Mine determined by me with
a fine cistern barometer, is 3,378 feet above the level of the
sea, and 1,497 feet higher than our camp established on the
Gila River, six miles off, selected as a good site for smelt
ing works.' "
W. R. Hopkins, civil engineer, in connection with the
same report, speaks as follows:
"We have traced the copper lode by distinct pieces of
heavy ore for 1,600 feet about east and west; also three
other veins. The lode appears to be from eight to twelve
feet wide on the surface. The shaft we have commenced
is on the main lode and on a hill that rises from sixty to
one hundred feet above the surrounding gullies. It is now
seven feet square and six feet deep. The ore is increasing
in richness, and the veins widening. The vein contain
ing the copper-glance, specimens of which you will receive,
is now twenty inches wide, and occupies the south side of the
lode. Next to this come gray and green ores and red
oxide of copper. The lode is now occupied with the ore,
so that nearly all that is thrown out goes into the pile to

136 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
be smelted. The dip of the lode is now slightly to the
north, and we suppose that it will run into another lode
twenty-five feet north of it, and form a wider bed of ore
than we now find. We would express to you our confi
dence in the extreme richness of the mine, both from our
own observation and the opinion of experienced miners
throughout this section of country. We find water-power
on the river abundant (at times). Mesquite is in sufficient
quantities to furnish charcoal, which is of the best quality."
Frederick Brunkow, assayer and mining engineer, made a
report in January, i860, upon some selected specimens
from this mine, from which this extract is taken :
"The specimens consisted of the outcrop ore of a power
ful vein and bore unmistakeable signs of a true vein. * *
As commonly by all outcrop ore so here carbonates and
silicates make their appearance, while the main body of the
vein, to some extent below the surface probably, will con
sist in general of gray sulphurets of copper, and other ores,
which already, in large quantities, appear upon the surface.
*** I divided the ores into different classes and assayed
them accordingly: 1, sulphurets, mixed with carbonate,
contained to the ton 50 per cent copper and 104
ounces silver; 2, gray sulphuret containing to the ton
60 per cent copper and 93 ounces of silver; 3, silicate of
copper containing 20 to 25 per cent copper and 20 to 25
ounces of silver to the ton ; 4, carbonate of copper contain
ing 25 to 50 per cent copper and only a trace of silver, as
carbonates and silicates are secondary formation, a large
yield of silver could not be expected. The ore of this vein
would be the quickest and cheapest way to reduce in a
blast 'furnace and run into copper ingots, which could be
shipped and afterwards be stripped of their silver. Iron
crushers for breaking the ore, as well as the necessary
blast, could be driven by water-power of which there is an
abundance (at times) in the Gila River."

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 137
The immense resources of Pinal County must ultimately
rest upon her vast bodies of agricultural land, and to render
this land productive, water must be gotten upon it, as the
natural rainfall is not sufficient or at least could not be
relied upon, and, therefore, it becomes necessary that res
ervoirs be constructed upon a large scale in the seasons of
rains, when the streams are at floodtide, to be filled and
taken out over the soil through canals and aqueducts when
needed in seasons of drought or as long as shall be neces
sary for the maturing of crops.
There is an excellent school at Florence, employing an
able corps of fine teachers. There are several churches and
a number of secret societies, a commercial club and two
weekly papers edited with much ability.
The northwestern portion of the county along the Gila
River is occupied by the Pima and Maricopa Indian Reser
vation. This reserve embraces much fertile land, consider
able of which is tilled by these industrious people, who
have ever been at peace with the whites, and in the first
settlement of the Territory were a wall of defense against
the plundering, murderous Apaches. The United States
Government has supplied schools for these Indians, and
the rising generation of the race has now adopted many
of the methods and customs of an advancing civilization.
Many of them live in comfortable houses, have American
plows and other farm implements, wagons, etc. In their
houses the women have sewing machines, and in many an
Indian farmhouse the piano is heard. They are getting
up to a higher plane of civilization and a higher life. Thus
has it been demonstrated that the Indian race is capable of
higher development if once started upon a higher plane by
honest hands. Assessed value of property, $2,898,347.25
for 1903.

CHAPTER XIV
Pima County.
Pima County has an area of 9,424 square miles, making it
about equal to the States of New Jersey and Rhode Island
combined. Pima County is one of the original counties
into which Arizona was divided by the first legislature that
met at Prescott in 1864, and is the portion of the Territory
first settled by Europeans. This county is bounded on the
north by the counties of Maricopa and Pinal ; on the east by
Graham and Cochise Counties ; on the south by Santa Cruz
County and the Mexican State of Sonora, and on the west
by the County of Yuma.
Tucson, the oldest and at this time most populous town in
the Territory, is the county-seat. This county has a large
amount of fine land for agricultural purposes along the
Santa Cruz River, which crosses the county from southeast
to about northwest. There are several tributaries of the
Santa Cruz, along which there is fine land for cultivation.
Much of the tableland or mesas would produce well if water
were gotten upon them. What is necessary is that artesian
wells should be developed, or that the great amount of water
that runs to waste during the periodical floods of the Santa
Cruz River and its tributaries, the Rillito and other streams,
should be gathered into reservoirs for use upon the land
during seasons of drought.
There are several mountain ranges lying partially or
wholly in this county, and there have been many mining
claims taken up in all of them. Some few have been pat
ented, but most are held by possessory title. Some are
being successfully worked, while on others only enough
work is being done as development work to hold the claim

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 139
under the mining laws of the United States. Many consid
erable fortunes have been made from working the mines and
from the sale of mines.
Some settlements were made by the Spaniards within the
limits of Pima County, or what was Pima County, as early
as 1687. The Mission of San Xavier del Bac, some nine
miles southwest of Tucson, was started by the Society of
Jesus in that year; also a sub-mission near Tucson for a
school for the Indian children, and visited by a priest at
stated periods.
The presidio of Tucson was occupied by Spanish soldiers
as a military protection to the mission soon after. The
Indian rancheria, or as some call it, "Old Tucson," was about
a mile a little west of south from where the city of Tucson is
today. Pima County as originally constituted included all of the
Gadsden purchase, from the 109th meridian of west longi
tude to the county of Yuma upon the west. Since that time
there have been taken from the county of Pima two entire
counties, viz. : Cochise and Santa Cruz, and those parts of
Graham, Pinal and Maricopa lying north of the Gila River.
The light of Christianity for Arizona first shone, though
faintly, through the night of barbarism within the limits of
Pima County, and though many times nearly extinguished,
again blazed forth, until it has illuminated the dark caves
of superstition with life-giving light, and the inhabitants
stand forth in the full blaze of the regenerating Gospel.
Rich in mines, in grazing land, in soil for raising grain
and vegetables, in timber, in purest air and almost perpetual
sunshine, Pima County offers great and varied inducements
for the capitalist, the merchant, the mechanic or the hardy
tiller of the- soil, or whoever seeks an ideal home which can
not be surpassed in any part of the world.
This county takes its name from a once-numerous tribe of
Indians, who dwelt within its limits and made their living
by agriculture.

140 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Tucson, the county-seat, from its position in the Santa
Cruz Valley, is the great center, commercial and social, and
source of supply for a vast domain.
In Pima County are many mountain ranges and detached
peaks, some rising to a considerable altitude, though hardly
assuming the majesty of great mountains. To the east and
northeast of Tucson are the Santa Catalina Mountains,
whose culminating point is Mount Lemon, nearly ten thou
sand feet above sea-level ; while to the southeast from same
point is what is generally called the "Rincon." The apex
or highest point is called by the Spanish-speaking people,
"Santa Rosa," whose altitude is about eight thousand feet
above sea-level. South from Tucson, some thirty-five miles,
is the Santa Rita Range of mountains, crowned by "Old
Baldy," or Mount Wrightson, with an altitude of 11,400
feet; but the major part of this range lies in the adjoining
county of Santa Cruz. West, about fifty miles, is the Babo-
quiveri Range, with the apex rising up to the altitude of
10,600 feet above sea-level in massive and rocky grandeur.
It has generally been considered that the foot of man had
never trodden this lofty summit, but in 1898 Professor
Forbes of the University at Tucson, by the aid of ropes and
grappling hooks, made the ascent and spent a day or more
upon this elevated rock, leaving a fire burning, which at
tracted the attention of the people of the surrounding country
for a circuit of thirty or forty miles ; and among the super
stitious Papago Indians it at first created great consternation,
they thinking their mountain god had commenced to burn.
One of their chiefs, more venturesome or less superstitious
than his people, ventured to the mountain and saw Professor
Forbes upon the summit, saw him come down, and his evi
dence served to dispel the illusion. There is a tradition
among these Indians that many moons before the white man
appeared in the country one of their great chiefs had a beau
tiful daughter, so beautiful that even as a child whenever
she appeared great crowds followed her and were ever eager

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 141
to gaze upon her exquisite face and form. From the charm
of her voice she had been named in their language "The
Heavenly Vision."
As this bewitching princess approached womanhood,
her hand was sought far and near by princes and the
sons of princes ; but the wayward beauty turned with a joy
ous laugh from their blandishments. Finally, when in the
full flush of her resplendent beauty, came the son of a great
chief, with whom her people had long been at war, as the
head of a peace embassy. A peace was concluded finally
from the exhaustion of both parties, and not from any love
for each other. The young brave found such favor in the
eyes of the Indian maiden that she consented to be his and
to repair to his wigwam if he would ascend Baboquiveri
peak unaided and return to claim, her within seven suns.
The young man ascended the peak, witnessed by the whole
tribe, amid shouts of congratulation; but in descending he
became careless, perhaps his eyes were too much occupied in
gazing upon his beloved. So he stepped upon a rolling stone,
lost his balance and fell from a great height and was dashed
to pieces before and in the presence of his beloved. As
he fell, the maiden uttered a despairing cry and fell to the
ground in a death-like swoon, and though from that she
recovered, she never spoke more ; but on the anniversary of
the fatal day would repair to the spot where he fell and
chant the Indian death-song over the resting place of her
departed lover, until there came a time when she returned
not. When sympathizing friends repaired to the spot, it was
found her broken spirit had flown to join her heart's choice
in that silent world where there are no sorrows. Even
among the old Indians of the tribe today their folklore
has it that up to within the last few years, upon the anni
versary of that day the death song is sublimely chanted
there by spirit voices in the stillness of the night : "Adieu,
beautiful ones ; sleep on, ever faithful hearts."

142 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
To the north and east of Baboquiveri Range of moun
tains is the lower range of the Tucson Mountains, and to the
west are the Cababi and Quijotoa Ranges. Southeast of the
Baboquiveri are the Las Gijas, Pajarito and Tumercacavi
Ranges. From these vast belts of rock-ribbed mountains the scenery
is grand beyond description. Their granite heads, bold and
destitute of other vegetation than scrub oak, pinon pine and
the giant cactus (sujaro) can be seen on clear days for
hundreds of miles. Beneath the shadow of lofty heads and
up their steep sides are to be found great forests of pine,
juniper, quaking asp, ash oak, cherry and walnut. Streams
of pure water rush down the mountain sides and are swal
lowed up by the thirsty plains below. Locked in these moun
tains, as in a vast treasure house, are mineral deposits of
gold, silver, copper and lead, and many other metals of
recent discovery in Arizona, to greatly enhance the riches of
the world; awaiting the touch of labor, backed by judg
ment and capital, to develop into great wealth producers.
And of the plains, what shall be said of them ? They, like
wise, possess every element requisite for advancing an
industrious and enterprising people to prosperity and great
ness. The Santa Cruz River runs through this county,
with many windings, nearly from south to north for some
fifty miles, and there are fully fifteen hundred square miles
of fine land for agriculture in this river bottom and its
tributaries that will produce largely all the products grown in
semi-tropical countries.
The great problem which has met the farmers face to face
has been how to get water upon the land; how can a
sufficient quantity be obtained to render the fine soil of this
county productive and insure to a reasonable certainty a fair
crop each year without too great an expense. Later develop
ments made within the past year have in a great measure
solved this question, as it has been demonstrated that a
large flow of water can be obtained all along the Santa Cruz

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 143
River by boring, and at no great depth. The policy has not
yet been acted upon, though often talked of, of constructing
reservoirs and having them filled when the streams are
flooded in seasons of heavy rains, to be run out over the
parched land in the dry season. When such a policy is
adopted, Arizona will be a great producer of the necessaries
of life. Arizona has the soil, now it remains for the moisture
to be gotten upon that soil, and by the sun's aid cause the
life-giving plants to spring forth.
The resources of Pima County are mining, stock-raising
and agriculture. At this present time probably stock-raising
is most remunerative. Various reasons are given why min
ing is not receiving more attention than it is at present.
Among others, the low price of silver affords a convenient
willow on which to hang the sorrowing harp. It is dwelt
upon as though some one is to be blamed for the result,
forgetting or not willing to understand that silver is but a
product, and that what any product shall be worth in the
markets of the world is not a matter to be regulated by law
or at the behest of any one government or of all combined,
for that matter. Supply and demand regulate the price
of necessary commodities, or such as are deemed neces
sary, either for comfort, convenience or luxury, and gold
and silver are no exceptions to the rule.
The old church of San Xavier del Bac, erected by the
Jesuits and Franciscans as a mission church for the Papago
Indians, is now in a good state of preservation, having
been thoroughly repaired in the last few years. The exact
age of this structure, built in the moorish style of architec
ture, is not known definitely, but the year 1797 is marked
upon the vestry door, and it is generally considered that
the church was completed that year. A temporary chapel
was dedicated in the presidio of Tucson, perhaps for the
convenience of the military and the few inhabitants occupy
ing the same.

144 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
The church of San Augustine, now a hotel of that name,
is a later structure, having been erected in 1863.
The evidences of the cultivation of the soil by the Papago
Indians and the mission priests are very plain, even at this
date. From their old ruins, the foundations of buildings
and ruined aqueducts are still discernible, also reservoirs,
with a part of their embankments still in place, together with
a vast amount of broken pottery on both sides of the Santa
Cruz river, also on the Rillito, some six miles northeast
and east of Tucson.
At the date of the transfer from Mexico to the United
States (1853) of that portion of the Gadsden Purchase
included in what is now Arizona, there were only two vil
lages within those limits that contained other inhabitants
than Indians, and these villages were Tucson and Tubac.
Near each place were a few small ranches, under cultiva
tion by the inhabitants.
The old name of Tucson, Tulqueson, Tuqueston, is an
Indian appellation, but it is not easy to find from what
derived. There was a garrison of forty Mexican troops at Tubac
in 1840, and the place then contained a population of about
400. In 1861 it was the restored ruins of an old village,
and occupied by a mixed population of Americans and Mexi
cans, and near at hand were camped about one hundred
Papago Indians, but in 1863 the place was again abandoned
and in ruins.
In order to preserve the chain of history of the country,
it may be well to state that the Spanish records of those
times show that during the eighteenth century something
near two hundred silver mines were worked in what is now
Arizona and Northern Sonora, many of them being within
the limits of Pima County. The King of Spain arbitrarily
claimed a large share of the silver produced, as property of
the Crown, which pretension on the part of Spain's ruler

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 145
caused much indignation, not only among the silver pro
ducers, but the whole people as well, and after that time the
proceeds of the mines were concealed as far as could be
done and smuggled out of the country. It would seem to
a certainty that in the vicinity of missions it was necessary
to have the protection of troops, at least part of the time.
It probably was the case that the Papagoes and Pimas, with
the assistance of the priests did manage to struggle along
and repel the often-repeated attacks of the Apaches, but
between those tribes of Indians was perpetual war, and
wherever and whenever one was caught by the opposing
tribes, he was killed without mercy. As a matter of
history, by the scanty records then kept, about the year
1800 Tucson was garrisoned by about one hundred regular
Spanish troops.
The town consisted of about one hundred and fifty adobe
houses, and had a population of three hundred and fifty
persons, many of them discharged soldiers, who made a
precarious living by cultivating small tracts of land in the
river valley near the fort and selling the product to the
troops and few citizens. No extensive cultivating of the
fine bottom land could be done owing to the frequent and
fierce raids of the ever hostile Apache Indians. Several
times the old records state the Apaches made well-organized
and desperate attempts to capture Tucson, under their
bravest and ablest leaders and over one thousand warriors
strong, but were always repulsed. The presidio of Tucson
was the most northerly Spanish settlement, and was a
constant hindrance to the raids of these Indians upon the
settled portion of Sonora where prisoners, of whom slaves
were made, and cattle could be obtained, and, therefore,
the most strenuous efforts of Indian ingenuity and power
were exerted through long years for its destruction — a
second Tyre, but the Apaches developed no Alexander
to break down its walls. In 1856 the place had some four
hundred inhabitants, some thirty of whom were Americans.

146 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
On the 2 1 st of March of that year the first American
store in the place was opened by Solomon Warner, who
came from California with thirteen pack mules loaded with
merchandise. Don Solomon, as the Mexicans called him,
came only eleven days after the Mexican troops had been
withdrawn, in pursuance of the terms of the Gadsden Treaty
of purchase made in previous years. At this time Tucson
had a flour mill and soon had another store.
In 1857, the first mail arrived from San Antonio, Texas,
succeeded, in 1858, by the great overland tri-weekly mail
line from St. Louis and Memphis, via Fort Smith, Fort
Chadborne, El Paso, Mesilla, Tucson, Yuma, Indian Wells,
Warner's Ranch, Los Angeles, and over the Coast route to
San Francisco, California. This line was generally known
as the "Butterfield" line, and did good and prompt service
up to the breaking out of the Civil War, in 1861, when the
Confederate authorities, or those pretending to act in their
name, took possession of all of the stage company's prop
erty within their reach. The establishing of this mail and
stage line put southern Arizona in easy communication
with the outside world, which, with a few petty settlements
along the Colorado River, was all there was of Arizona not
dominated by the Apache.
The annals of Tucson, though of most absorbing interest
to the student of history, are indistinct as to her past. For
a period of time, approximating one hundred years, it was
a walled fortress guarded by vigilant, armed and drilled
Spanish soldiers. Up to within the last sixty years, or say
up to 1840, Tucson was a military post — a walled town
protected by a regular fort constructed in such a manner
as to be a guard over the whole place, an immense wall in
the shape of a square enclosed the entire place, shutting
in the inhabitants and shutting out the Apache Indians —
the hostile portion of them. The rear end of every house
was built into and against this wall, and the only openings
in the houses were the doors which opened into the central

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 147
plaza. A heavily ironed gate, which was guarded con
tinually, and which remained open in the daytime when
there was no alarm from Apaches, afforded ingress and
egress to this plaza. At night the gate was closed, locked
and bolted. The wall at the back of the houses was some
four feet higher than the house roofs, thus affording an
excellent breastwork behind which, from their flat roofs,
the inhabitants could with comparative safety fire upon
an attacking force. These flat roofs were used almost uni
versally during the summer season as the family bedroom.
The first establishing of Tucson seems to have been
solely for military purposes, and its walls were built so
strongly and so well fortified that no body of Apache war
riors which could be assembled against it stood much chance
of success. The result was that Tucson for at least one
hundred years stood against all Apache wiles and machina
tions, though they were constantly on the watch to be able,
in some unguarded moment, to strike a fatal blow, and de
stroy the place. The existence of this stronghold of the
hated white race so far within their claimed jurisdiction,
was a thorn in their side, and expedition after expedition
was organized by their ablest war chiefs for its destruc
tion, only to fail at immense loss of blood and energy to
themselves. It is clear from Spanish records that the Fort of Tucson
was established in 1694 by them to protect the Catholic
missions of San Augustine and San Xavier del Bac, at
which date Tucson may be said to have been permanently
settled by Europeans. Before that time its occupation by
whites was upon sufferance of the Apache Indians — a suf
ferance liable to be terminated by Apache treachery at any
time and the priests with most of their following murdered.
The Papago Indians, who early became converts to at least
the forms of the Catholic religion, have, from the earliest
times, been friendly to the whites, and it can be said to their
credit that many times they have joined with the garrison

148 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
at Tucson and rendered valuable assistance in beating off
these marauders upon their raids. This was particularly
the case in the great raid of 1720, when it seemed at one
time as though the native race would sweep the whites into
southern Mexico.
During Spanish occupancy of Tucson as a military post
there were no outlying settlements owing to the frequent
and ferocious incursions of the Apaches, there not being
a sufficient number of soldiers in the country to overawe
them. Movements of the inhabitants outside the walled
town were made under the protection of troops. Over all
the surrounding country and far south into the Mexican
State of Sonora constant incursions were made by the ac
tive and fierce Apaches, who slaughtered many of the in
habitants, made captives of the young women and children
and drove off whole herds of cattle and mules. The nec
essary supplies of the settlers around the post for many
years came in from Guaymas and Hermosillo, under the
protection of the troops. The Apaches for many years kept
the military authorities in a state of constant watchfulness.
In 1847, during the Mexican War, a small force of United
States troops and a battalion of Mormon Volunteers under
command of Philip St. George Cook, en route for Cali
fornia, captured the town, but as they were pressed for time
did not attempt the fort but left it with its brave garrison
unmolested. The Mexican commander did not attempt pur
suit, but congratulated himself on his "victory" in an "of
ficial" report to his government.
In 1849 the national boundary line was defined under the
Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo of February 2, 1848, which
closed the Mexican War, the garrison was largely increased
and Tucson had trebled in population. The Gadsden Pur
chase was accomplished in 1853 and the boundary line of
the new purchase ran out and settled in 1854-5, and in 1856
the United States took formal possession of the purchase
by sending four troops of the First Dragoons into it, — this

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 149
force was stationed first at Tucson and later at Calabasas.
In 1857 a permanent site for a military post to be called
"Buchanan" was selected on the stream called Sonoita,
about twenty-five miles east of Tubac and fifty miles south
from Tucson. During the Civil War quite a military force
was kept at Tucson and many of the citizens of enterprise
became contractors for furnishing such supplies as the
quartermaster and commissary branches of a military force
might require, and that the surrounding country could furn
ish, even calling largely upon the Mexican States of Chi
huahua and Sonora. This gave Tucson a great impetus
and she became almost at once a commercial center to a
vast extent of country.
In 1868 the capital was removed from Prescott to Tucson,
and at that day this also was considered a great promoter
of a permanent prosperity; goods of all descriptions were
brought in from the East and West.
From the Eastern marts of commerce, New York, Phila
delphia, St. Louis and even from Europe, goods came by
railroad and steamer to Independence, Missouri, and from
there by ox or mule trains, across the great plains via Cim
arron, Raton Mountains, Santa Fe, down the Rio Grande
via Albuquerque, Soccoro, Fort Craig, across the dreaded
Jornado del Muerto (journey of death), and crossing the
Rio Grande at Roblero or farther down stream in the vicin
ity of Las Cruces, then west through mountain canons and
across wide plains three hundred miles from the Rio
Grande to Tucson. Traveling by train frequently occupied
from three to four months and nearly the whole distance
a vigilant lookout had to be kept for either Apache or Co
manche Indians, who, if in sufficient force, would attack
a train and endeavor to capture it or some part of it, and
at least stampede and run off the animals on every oppor
tunity. So it was absolutely necessary to have a sufficient
force to guard the whole train with military precision,
night and day, as though traveling through the country of

150 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
an enemy — in fact such was the case. Every man was well-
armed and trained more or less in the use of arms, so that
when a train was attacked the first business of teamsters
under direction of the wagon-master was to park the train ;
that is, form a hollow square with the wagons, animals
were driven into this square and the wagons used as a
fortification. Old hands would park a large train in a few
minutes, even the animals seemed to understand. One fierce
old bull, part buffalo, which had been born on the plains
and used as a draught animal seemed to have a spite against
Indians and whenever they were around he was in a perfect
fury and frequently gave the first alarm. Brave old "Buff,"
he was called, as it was known that he killed at different
times three Comanche Indians ; two he impaled upon his
horns, tossed and stamped them to death, a third gave the
old fellow a mortal wound with a spear, but as he fell he
succeeded in ripping the Indian open with his sharp horns,
then stretched out and died with a look of triumph in his
dying eyes, that his foe was dying, too. His owner, Gen
eral Otero, after the Indians were driven off, had the faith
ful animal buried with the honors of war and declared that
over the grave of that old ox more tears were shed than he
ever saw at a funeral; old bronzed teamsters and Indian
fighters broke down and cried like children, and to restore
order, he was compelled to give the order to "hitch up" and
move on.
From the West, goods were shipped by steamer from San
Francisco to the mouth of the Colorado River, then up the
river by barge or the light draught steamers to Yuma, and
from these transferred to wagons upon the Arizona side of
the river and hauled to Tucson mostly by mule teams, two
hundred and fifty miles.
Freight on goods those days was an important item as
from the Colorado River alone, the charge was from nine
to ten cents per pound, so that it can be seen on such articles
as salt and iron it enhanced the value very materially. Much

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 151
of the salt used was packed on mules and burros from the
Gulf of California in sacks of about twenty-five pounds
each, and not very clean at that. This packing of salt from
the Californian Gulf was entirely engrossed by Papago In
dians, male and female.
The advent of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which
reached Tucson in 1880, changed the order of business
very materially, and now the commercial affairs of Tucson
and the country generally are conducted upon the princi
ples of other large mercantile centers. The population of
Tucson now (1903) is about twelve thousand and steadily
increasing. Of churches the Catholics have an $80,000
cathedral; the Episcopalians, a church; Presbyterians, a
church, (to be built); Methodists, a church; Baptists, a
church; Congregationalists, a church; the Salvation Army
have a hall and the Latter-day Saints (Mormons) have
a foothold or a "stake" as they style it. All are prospering
and instructing the people according to their light, how to
live better here and reach a "better world" beyond "life's
fitful fever."
Of schools, there is a large parochial school under the
supervision of the Catholics, well attended and ably con
ducted. There are five public schools within the corporate
limits of Tucson, and good, substantial buildings have been
provided in every instance, together with all the modern
appliances for teaching up-to-date. The Territorial Uni
versity of Arizona is located at Tucson, where a first-class
university education may be obtained at a slight cost.
There is also at Tucson a very flourishing Indian school,
mostly under the supervision of the Presbyterians, which
has done more for the elevation of the rising generation
among the Papago Indians in the few years of its exist
ence than all others have done in the three hundred and
more years that have passed, since those professing Chris
tianity first came among them. John Wannemaker, the
merchant prince of Philadelphia, is understood to have

152 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
contributed largely from his ample resources to forward the
school and make it a success.
Of newspapers, there are three : two Democratic in poli
tics, The Star, a morning daily issue, and the Citizen, an
evening issue; The Post, a weekly issue, is Republican in
politics. Pima County's great industry and that which must, in
the future be the chief reliance for supporting a large popu
lation, is agriculture. She has large bodies of fine land,
which with water upon it, and properly tilled, would pro
duce enough of the essentials of life to supply the wants of
a dense population. At this time, January, 1903, there are
but about three mines being worked within the county
boundaries, and these not in an extensive manner. Of min
ing locations there are many, but the holders seem con
tent to do the work required to hold a possessory title and
wait for the boom that has been dancing upon the horizon
of the future for these many years, when a fortune can be
realized at once, and for the rest of their lives, freed from
all care, they can enjoy a long life of unalloyed happiness.
These are Life's dreams, which most indulge in, yet how
few, how very few arrive at the reality. As a rule the in
dividual who has accumulated a fortune or a competency
by mining has earned it and is entitled to enjoy it.
Tucson has a free public library, the finest library build
ing in the Territory, costing twenty-five thousand dollars,
for which she thanks the Hon. Andrew Carnegie, who
donated that princely sum for that purpose to the city. This
leads to a few words upon the accumulation of riches :
many holding that an individual ought not to be allowed
by law to accumulate beyond a small competency. Those
holding these views lose sight of the great incentive prin
ciple which causes men to struggle to accumulate property
that is but the surplus product of labor. Were it not for
the hope of accumulating for themselves and those who
may come after them, how many would strive to carry on

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 153
extensive business — call it by any name one will it is the
incentive, the love of gain for himself, that first starts the
savage on the road to civilization, and without it there
never has been, nor could there be, progress in the world's
history. The very people who most vociferously cry out
against this accumulation of property are themselves in
the race; to accumulate is the great incentive to labor, and
when there can be no individual reward of industry, then
will nations retrograde from civilization toward barbarism
— so much for Socialistic theories. -*"
St. Joseph's Academy, under the supervision of the Cath
olic sisters, affords for female children all the advantages
of a thorough English and Spanish education. Though
this institution is Catholic, yet pupils of every religious
denomination, or maybe of none, from all parts of the coun
try, are made welcome. The course of instruction embraces
Christian Doctrine, orthography, reading, writing, gram
mar, composition, arithmetic, bookkeeping, algebra and
geometry, modern topographical and physical geography,
with use of globes, astronomy, chemistry, history, and
biography, rhetoric, literature, physiology, botany, natural
philosophy and French, music on the piano, guitar and
violin, drawing and painting in oil and water colors; plain
and ornamental fancywork, etc.
Of secret and benevolent societies, there are Masons,
Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, Elks, Red Men, Ancient
Order of United Workmen and several other distinguished
orders, and all seem to be in a flourishing condition. The
Grand Army and Pioneers will go out with this generation.
Assessed value of property, $3,898,347.25 for 1903.
I will now proceed to give some personal history from an
old resident of Tucson, whose memory of events extends
back near a century, and who died here but a few years
ago and was well known to some members of this society:
"We met an old lady this week, who is supposed to be
over one hundred years old, and was born in Tucson. Her

154 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
name is Mariana Dias, and from her we obtained -several
historical items relating to old times, which were very in
teresting to us. She says as long ago as she can remem
ber Tucson consisted of a military post surrounded by a
corral, and that there were but two or three houses out
side of it. The country was covered with horses and cattle
and on many of the trails they were so plentiful that it was
quite inconvenient to get through the immense herds. They
were valuable only for the hides and tallow, and a good
sized steer was worth only three dollars. This country then
belonged to Spain and the troops were paid in silver coin,
and on all the coin the name of Ferdinand I was engraved,
and money was plentiful. Goods, such as they required
were brought from Sonora on pack animals. They had in
those days no carts or wagons. The fields in front and below
Tucson were cultivated and considerable grain was also
raised upon the San Pedro. With an abundance of beef
and the grain they raised they always had an ample supply.
They had no communication with California and she never
knew there was such a country until she had become an
old woman. San Xavier was built as long ago as she can
remember, and the church in the valley in front of town,
and there was also a church on Court House Square, which
has gone to ruin and no trace is left of it. The priests were
generally in good circumstances, and were supported by
receiving a portion of the annual products, but for mar
riages, burials, baptisms and other church duties, they did
not ask or receive any pay.
"Among the leading and wealthier men who lived here
at that time, she mentioned the names of Epumusena Lo-
reles, Santa Cruz, Ygnacio Pacheco, Rita Soso, Padre
Pedro, and Juan Dias. On inquiry about the Apaches she
spoke with considerable feeling and said that many efforts
had been made for peace with them, but every attempt had
resulted in failure; that whatever promises they made, but
a few days would pass before they proved treacherous and

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 155
commenced murder and robbery again ; that they murdered
her husband in the field about two miles below Tucson and
that most of her relatives had gone in the same way ; that
she was now left alone and would be in want but for such
men as Samuel Hughes.
"She related the circumstances of one peace that was
made about ninety years ago. It seems the Apaches got the
worst of a fight on the Aravaca Ranch ; several were killed
and the son of a chief was taken prisoner and brought to
Tucson, and the Indians at once opened negotiations to
obtain this boy. Colonel Carbon, in command of the Span
ish forces, agreed with them that on a certain day the In
dians should all collect here, and to prevent treachery and
being overpowered, he brought in at night, and concealed
within the walls of the fort, all the men he could get from
all the towns within one hundred and fifty miles. On the
day appointed the Indians came in vast numbers ; all the
plains around were black with them. The colonel then
told them if they had come on a mission of peace they must
lay down their arms and meet him as friends. They com
plied with his request, and then all the people inside the
walls came out and went among them unarmed. The col
onel gave them one hundred head of cattle and the boy
prisoner was produced and turned over to his father and
they embraced each other and cried and an era of recon
ciliation and peace seemed to have arrived. The boy told
his father that he liked his captors so well that he desired
to live with them and in spite of the persuasions of the old
man he still insisted upon remaining and the Indians were
compelled to return to their mountain home without him.
The boy was a great favorite with the people. Sometime
afterwards he went to visit his people, but before leaving
he saw everyone in the village and bade them good-by,
promising to return, which he did in fifteen days. A few
days after his return he took the small pox and died. Very

156 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
soon after his death the Apaches commenced to murder and
rob the same as before.
"The aged lady then remarked with apparently much
feeling, that since her earliest recollection she had heard
it said many times, 'We are going to have peace with the
Apaches,' but every hope had been broken and she did not
think we would have any peace as long as an Apache lived.
When she was a girl the Apaches made two attempts to
capture Tucson. The first time nearly all the soldiers and
men were away. The Apaches, learning of this, took ad
vantage of the absence of the defenders and attacked the
town and would have taken it and murdered everyone in
it, but for the timely assistance of the Pima and Papago
Indians, who came to the rescue in large numbers, attack
ing the Apaches on two sides, driving them off and killing
many. The next time the sentinel on the hill west of town
discovered them coming, he gave the alarm, and after a
severe fight the Indians were driven off. The Apaches had
no firearms in those days and were armed with spears,
bows and arrows.
"She referred to the pleasant times they used to have
when their wants were few and easily supplied and told
how they danced and played and enjoyed themselves. We
asked her if she thought the people were happier then than
now ; she did not seem inclined to draw comparisons, but
remarked that if it had not been for the Apaches they
would hardly have known what trouble was. Crime was
almost unknown and she never knew anyone to be punished
more severely than being confined for a few days. The law
required all strangers, unless they were of established rep
utation, to engage in some labor or business, within three
days after their arrival, or leave the town, and to this regu
lation she attributes the exemption from crime. On in
quiry as to whether they had liquor in those days, she said
that she never knew a time when there was not plenty of
mescal, but it was only on rare occasions that any one

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 157
drank to excess, and then they acted to each other as
brothers." (The extract is taken from Tucson Citizen, June 21,
1873)- We here have a view of times in this country a century or
so ago and it does not differ much from Greece as pictured
in the days of Homer, some twelve centuries before the
time of Christ.
It appears the town of Tucson was not the point first
chosen as the residence of settlers, but was at first only a
presidio or military post. The first church was some three
miles down the Santa Cruz River, upon what is known as
Grosetta's Ranch, where the old Padres lived, and it is
within the memory of persons now living when an old ruin
down there was styled "Casa de las Padres," Priest's
House. The following is a translation of an old document written
in Tucson in 1777:
"Senor Capitan Don Pedro Allande y Savedra :
"In virtue of your order, dated the 20th of current month,
to the effect that two citizens of the most eminence, well-
known in the country and reliable, should appear in your
presence to give you information concerning this locality as
to watering places, lands for corn fields, pasture for horses
and cattle, minerals, and, also, as to points of ingress and
egress of the inimical Apaches, and where they make their
abodes, I, Don Manuel Barragua and Antonio Romero and
Francisco Castro (who are the individuals that possess the
requisites which you demand), most respectfully obey, and
affirm that the town of Tubac is situated between two
mountains which are distant from each other six leagues.
"In the valley there is much land, fertile and suitable for
corn fields ; there is sufficient water for wheat growing but
scarcely enough each year for corn ; but if that which is at
Tumicacori be distributed, one week to the Indian laborers,
and another, for Tubac, it will sufficiently benefit the said

158 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
laborers and there will be an abundance of water; in this
manner was it disposed of by our former capitan, Don
Juan Bapt Anza, and recently this same disposition has
been sanctioned by your honor.
"There is as much pasture, with an abundance of suste
nance for horses and cattle as well, on the hills and in the
dales, as on the mountainless plains. In the same valley
there is a great deal of cottonwood and willow, and in the
Santa Rita Mountains there is an abundance of excellent
pine of easy access, six leagues distant.
"Of provisions alone there is raised every year, by the
inhabitants, six hundred or more fanegas of wheat and
corn; one-third of the land not being occupied. There are
many mines, very rich, to the west in the vicinity of Aribac
at a distance of seven leagues. There are three, particularly
in the aforesaid vicinity, one of which yields, according to
rule (de sopotable ley), a silver mark from one arroba
(twenty-five pounds) of ore, the other yields six marks
from a load (one hundred pounds) of ore, and the third
yields a little less.
"Three leagues beyond this vicinity, in . the valley of
Babacomri, there are fine gold placers, examined by Don
Jose de Tarro, and this whole population.
"After three visits, which these people made with Don
Jose at great risks, and by remaining there over three days
each trip, it was verified by their having brought away
and spent with two traders, who at this time have it, as
much as two hundred dollars in gold. In the Santa Rita
Mountains and its environs, which is distant from Tubac
four leagues, there have been examined five silver mines —
two have been tried with fire and three with quicksilver with
a tolerable yield.
"All of this is notorious among this entire population,
and they do not work them because there are Apaches in
all these places, because they live and have their pastures
there and pass continually by this mountain itself, to a

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 159
place a little more than four leagues off called Hot Springs,
(Agua Caliente).
"Daily experiencing more violence from the enemy, be
cause he is aware of the few troops that we possess, we
have desired to break up our homes and sell our effects,
and you being aware of it, we received the order, which
you were pleased to send us, imposing heavy penalties
upon us if we should remove or sell our goods, and have
punctually obeyed it; and now finally, the last month, the
Apaches finished with the entire herd of horses and cattle
which we had guarded, and at the same time, with boldness,
destroyed the fields and carried away as much corn as they
were able. Since the fort was removed to Tucson these
towns and missions have experienced great calamities and
they have been obliged to burn the town of Calabasas, a
calamity it had never before experienced.
"Also but a few days ago, the cavalcade, which the
Apaches brought from the west, was grazing for three
days in the vicinity, falling every day upon the fields to
load with corn, and to run away with those whom they
found there, and lastly, their not leaving the neighborhood,
we momentarily expect that they may serve us and our
families as they have served our property, there being noth
ing else left for them to do.
"We trust in God that by the numerous petitions of the
poor people this fort may be restored to its ancient site,
and, if necessity requires it, there shall be more troops to
protect the herds by remaining at the several points of in
gress and egress, which the enemy have established through
out this entire region, and that they may be continually
watching from the hills and the adjacent mountains.
"We humbly beseech you, in the name of the whole com
munity, that you will pity our misfortunes and listen to our
petition, that you may remove the continual misfortunes
that we have suffered, being in continual expectation of our
total destruction.

i6o THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
"We live in great confidence, from the knowledge that
some of us have of you, that by your exertion and by your
conduct and by that of the military commandant, we shall
receive the benefit to which we are entitled, since no one
is better known than Senor Savedra, and he knows that we
exaggerate nothing, considering the many years we have
been under his orders."
"Your humble and obedient servant,
"Manuel Barragua,
"Francisco Castro,
"Antonio Romero."
"San Augustin de Tucson, November 24, 1777."

CHAPTER XV
Santa Cruz County.
Santa Cruz County is the last county set off up to this
date and was taken entirely from Pima County. It has
an area of 1,212 square miles, about equal to the State of
Rhode Island, and is bounded as follows : On the north,
by Pima; on the east, by Cochise; on the south, by the
Mexican State of Sonora, and on the west by Pima County.
It was organized as a county in 1899. Nogales is the
county-seat, situated upon the line of railroad running from
Benson on the Southern Pacific, to Guaymas in Sonora,
and upon the boundary line. The name Nogales is walnut,
from the fact that long ago walnut trees grew upon the
site. This county possesses, in the aggregate, considerable
agricultural land mostly confined to narrow valleys along
the streams ; perhaps the largest body is along the Santa
Cruz River, which is the whole width of the county. The
Sonoita, also, has considerable agricultural land and some
about the head of the Babacomri Creek. There is consid
erable land being cultivated in the Soperi Valley also. There
is much fine grazing land in this county and some of the
cattlemen have succeeded in having large herds of cattle;
between the Santa Rita Mountains on the west and Whet
stone on the east and the northern end of the Huachucas
is a great cattle range; also farther south at La Norio or
"Lochiel," is, perhaps, the finest cattle range to be found in
the Territory.
Much of the county is mountainous, and the mountain
ranges are filled with minerals, principally gold, silver,
copper and lead. Silver, probably, predominates, though it

162 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
is not easy to judge of that as many of the mines are but
slightly developed. At the present time the Oro Blanco
Mining District and mines are coming to the front as pro
ducers, and it is found upon going down that mines which
had been for years abandoned as played out, or, as miners
say, petered, are found to be of great value as depth is
reached, say from four to eight hundred feet. One, the
Oceanic, which has more than once been abandoned as
"petered," is now working successfully, though I think that is
in Pima County, being over the mountain west from Oro
Blanco. In other portions of this county are extensive mines, as
in the Patagonia Mountains. The old Mowry; among the
first worked in the Territory ; those of the Harshaw District
named after David Tecumseh Harshaw, who formerly had
been a sergeant in the California troops. The name Te
cumseh is a family name in the Sherman family and was
one of the names of General Sherman. In the latter '30's
and early '40's of the nineteenth century, a celebrated steam
boat captain, on Lake Champlain, was Richard Tecumseh
Sherman, for that day commander of the palatial steamer
Burlington ; "Dick" Sherman, as he was familiarly called,
was an uncle of David Tecumseh Harshaw, hence his mid
dle name. The Ohio Shermans are of same family.
The whole population of the county by census of 1900, was
4,545. Nogales, the county-seat, by same census, had a
population of 1,761. It is on the international boundary
line, and when first started was known as "Line City."
There is a Nogales on the Mexican side of the line, also,
with about the same population, principally Mexicans.
The street running along division line, separating the
two countries, is called International Street. Nogales is the
southern terminal of the New Mexico and Arizona Rail
road, also, the northern terminal of the Sonora Rail
road, which runs in nearly a direct line south to Guaymas
on " the Gulf of California, two hundred and sixtv-four

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 163
and seven-tenth miles or four hundred and twenty-six kilo
meters and gives Nogales daily a direct communication
with a seaport. Both the United States and Mexican Gov
ernments have located custom-houses and warehouses for
goods in bond and have consulates at this point.
The mineral region tributary to Nogales is very exten
sive and must materially aid in building up at this point a
large city at no distant day. The grazing interest is also
large in this vicinity.
Nogales, owing to its altitude, has a beautiful and health
ful climate and is quite a summer resort.
The town in the county next to Nogales is probably Pata
gonia, a new town upon the Rio Sonoita and railroad, just
in the mining center in the Patagonia Mountains and in the
Santa Rita Mountains. The old adobe town of Tubac, at
one time the principal town of Arizona, is within the limits
of this county. In 1850, and for several years before that
time, the Mexican Government kept a small garrison of
troops there.
Tubac was for several years headquarters for all the
large mining operations in what was then Southern Pima,
viz., Salero, Cerro Colorado, Arivaca, Santa Rita and
other active camps. Tubac was a presidio during the time
the country was controlled by Mexico, after that country
had thrown off Spanish domination. It was probably
chosen as a settling point, as at seasons of the year the Santa
Cruz River was a clear, running stream of quite a body of
water, and there is considerable agricultural land near
there; also it is the center of quite a mining region, whose
richness was known even in far off Spain. Since cattle have
been largely introduced into the country and considerable
irrigation going on above Tubac, the water that formerly
flowed above ground in the dry season near Tubac, disap
pears entirely. The Catholic Mission of St. Gertrudes was
located here in 1750.

164 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
At the present day it may be said of Tubac, "Its glory
hath departed," in all probability never to return. The
railroad station at the site of the old Mexican rancho of
Calabasas, is some fifteen miles up the river from Tubac
and about twelve miles north from Nogales. Here the
Sonoita joins the Santa Cruz. At present it is a very
small town, though its natural advantages are great. There
is considerable water in the two streams for irrigating pur
poses, and with no large outlay of capital, sufficient water
could be developed to irrigate the fine valley in proximity
below. Some fifteen miles westerly from Calabasas a peculiar
mountain peak is visible called "Thumb Butte," from its
resemblance in shape to a large human thumb. It stands
fully sixty feet in height and about ten feet in diameter at
what would be the base of the thumb. Calabasas is the
nearest point to touch the Arizona and New Mexican Rail
road for a large extent of country, both grazing and mining.
A wagon road has been laid out and made practicable much
of the way through the mountains west, direct to Oro
Blanco, distant thirty-five miles ; the cost would be but a
small matter to render this road entirely practicable, so that
instead of the long haul of seventy-five miles, Calabasas
or Tucson Railroad can be reached in thirty-five miles from
Oro Blanco.
A route for a railroad is now in contemplation from Tuc
son to the Gulf of California through the Baboquiveri Val
ley, that, should it be constructed, will give to the great
mining region of Oro Blanco and Arivaca a still nearer
railroad communication, also, the mines in the Baboqui
veri Range of Mountains.
Camp or Fort Crittenden is almost historical ground, as
the first military post established by the United States
within the boundaries of the celebrated Gadsden Pur
chase (made in 1853, the treaty having been confirmed
by the United States Senate on December 30th of that year) ,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 165
was here established in 1857 and called Fort Buchanan,
after James Buchanan, then President, who had been in
augurated March 4th of that year. Fort Buchanan was
abandoned upon the breaking out of the Civil War, in 1861,
i. e., the regular United States troops were withdrawn to
take part in other more active fields, and not again occupied
until 1868, when it was re-established and called Crittenden,
in honor of Thomas L. Crittenden, a son of Hon. John J.
Crittenden of Kentucky, who then was in command of the
military district embracing this portion of Arizona, south
of the Gila River. At and around where was camp Crit
tenden, which is now upon the line of the Arizona and New
Mexico Railroad, is one of the lovely spots of Arizona. The
beauty of the scenery is hard to surpass, and the altitude
is such that fruits of more northern climate, as the apple
and the peach, ripen to perfection. At one time within the
memory of oldtimers still living a band of wild horses, of the
wild and free breed, roamed over these beautiful mesas, but
with the advancing tide of civilization these horses have dis
appeared, being either frightened off or caught and broken
to the uses of man. In the neighborhood of Camp Critten
den is an inexhaustible supply of limestone from which lime
is supplied to the vicinity.
Mount Wrightson (Old Baldy), the highest point of the
Santa Rita mountain range, with an altitude of fully 10,000
feet, is in this county about forty miles almost directly south
from Tucson, in Pima County. There are fine schools es
tablished at the various points as required, and at Nogales
is a fine schoolhouse. The schools are well managed and
liberally patronized. There are no churches outside of
Nogales, and there the Catholics predominate.
Of papers, there are two at Nogales, both lively sheets,
the Oases and Vidette. The county, though at this time the
youngest and smallest in area, contains vast natural re-

166 , THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
sources that must, in the near future, make it the home of
an industrious and rich people. The value of assessable
property, $1,560,307.55 for 1903.

CHAPTER XVI
Yavapai County
Yavapai County is one of the four counties into which the
Territory of Arizona was originally divided, and at one
time embraced about one-third of the Territory, or all north
of the Gila River, excepting that part of Yuma which lies
north of that stream, and the county of Mojave. This
county as it now is, is bounded on the north by Coconino
county ; on the east, by Coconino and a portion of Gila ; on
the south, by Maricopa, and on the west, by a portion of
Yuma and Mojave Counties; and has an area of 7,863
square miles, and is a little larger than the State of New
Jersey. The population of this county, by census of 1900, was
13,799. It was called upon to contribute territory of which
to form other counties, as follows ; Maricopa County in
1871, part of Pinal in 1875, Apache County, which embraced
the County of Navajo, in 1879, and the great County of
Coconino in 1893.
Prescott, the first Territorial capital where the first legis
lature met in 1864, is now the countyseat and is a beautiful
city, its altitude being over 6,500 feet, and situated among
the pines, it has one of the finest summer climates in the
world. Prescott is a place of great commercial importance,
being the center of a large mining region, and • extensive
transactions in the mining world are carried through here,
as there are three heavy banks that have reliable connections
with the world's money centers.
There is considerable fine agricultural land in the moun
tain valleys of this county, but rains are too uncertain to
make it altogether reliable for the farmer to depend upon

168 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
raising crops without artificial irrigation. Whether water
in sufficient quantities can be developed by artesian wells,
or gathering of surplus from rain or snow in reservoirs, to
be of much use in agriculture has not been sufficiently tested.
Arizona is such a great mining region that it may be wrong
to discriminate, but if any county can be said to stand at
the head in this industry, it must be Yavapai. Some of the
greatest producing properties of the Pacific Coast, if not
of the world, are in this county.
The great camp of Jerome, incorporated as United Verde,
about thirty-five miles northeast of the city of Prescott, is
one of the world's wonders. This system of mines, now
mostly, if not entirely, in the hands of Senator Clarke of
Montana, yields a revenue almost fabulous ; they will be
described in detail further on.
The city of Prescott is as near the geographical center of
the Territory as it well can be, and, with its unexcelled
climate, fine buildings, hospitable and generous people, its
railroad facilities, all combined, it would be pointed out as
the spot for the Capitol, but the politicians and selfish inter
ests of other sections took it away from Prescott and placed
it in a city perhaps less suitable at all seasons of the year.
As a sanitary location, Prescott has no rival, and the
United States Government is now re-establishing Fort
Whipple ior a sanitary camp, to which to send invalid
soldiers and other military attaches.
As early as 1847 and 1848 Joseph Walker and Jack Ral
ston, hunters and trappers, discovered gold upon the Little
Colorado River, a short distance below the falls, but did not
know what it was. In Oregon, in 1856, they saw the same
yellow metal called gold and realized it was the same as
that which they had found along the Little Colorado. Late
in the 50's Ralston died, but Walker and a party, among
whom were George D. Lount, John Dickason, Joseph R.
Walker, Oliver Hallett, Arthur Clothier and Robert For
sythe, left San Francisco, in 1861, for the Little Colorado

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 169
River, and arrived at the spot where some of the party had
been before, but found no gold, as the gravel bed in which
the gold had been found had been washed away by the
high water of the river. The company went to Denver,
Colorado, and the next spring another party was organized
that went first to Albuquerque, New Mexico, and from there
to the Gila and San Francisco Rivers in Arizona. The
party divided at, or near, where afterwards was established
Fort Wingate, and the smaller party went by Santa Rita
copper mines, New Mexico, and Pinos Altos, where they
were recruited by Jack Swilling, W. T. Scott, now of
Tucson, and some others, and passed through Tucson and
Pima Villages and on to the Hassayampa Creek ; and in the
vicinity of where Prescott now is, made important gold
discoveries. Joseph Walker, Pauline Weaver, Jack Swilling,
Henry Wickenburg, Mr. Peebles and others made many dis
coveries of precious metals in the Hassayampa Lynx Creek,
Granite Creek, Big Bug and elsewhere, and in July, 1863,
the rich placers of Weaver's Gulch were discovered.
The great "find" of gold at Antelope Peak was made the
same year. There was a rush of miners and adventurers
for these localities, and the Apaches made bloody raids on
travelers in all directions. The Apache was sure to find
them when too weak to resist, or if too careless or neg
ligent. These Apache raids interfered very materially with
the development of the country.
On the 30th of May, 1864, a meeting of citizens
was held on Granite Creek, a town was located,
and named Prescott in honor of the eminent Ameri
can writer and standard authority upon Aztec and Spanish-
American history. The streets of the new city were laid
out wide, straight and with the cardinal points of the com
pass ; many of them were named after governors and other
prominent men.
Nature has been most prodigal in distributing minerals
throughout this county, and while there is considerable grain

170 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
and fruit raising, as well as grazing lands in the county,
yet for many years, perhaps for generations to come, min
ing for gold, silver and copper will be the prevailing indus
try. The mines of this county have passed through the many
stages to which a mining community are subject. For
some years lack of transportation facilities prevented large
extents of valuable mining country from being opened, or
from being known, except to the most hardy prospector.
Years after Americans began to come to the Territory and
much mining was being done, it was considered that
ore which would not yield thirty dollars per ton was too
poor to be of value; in fact, the law passed by the legisla
ture to tax net proceeds of mines in 1875 exempted thirty
dollars per ton from taxation, as it was considered that it
took about that amount to pay expenses. With the introduc
tion of railroads, the vast body of minerals of this county
commenced to come into the world's markets, and now there
are many men who have within the last ten or twelve years
rolled up for themselves princely fortunes, while adding
largely to the material wealth and happiness of the world.
The most celebrated mines of the county are the "Jerome"
group, or United Verde, near Jerome, and the "Congress,"
and these as producers may be termed world-beaters, but
there are within the county many others that are steadily
producing year by year and rolling up a handsome fortune
for their energetic owners.
Some thirty miles south of Prescott, at and near Myers
Station, on the route of travel between Southern and North
ern Arizona, is a great bed or quarry of Mexican onyx,
cropping out over at least one hundred acres in extent.
This stone is scientifically called travertine, and takes its
name from the Latin appellation of Lapis Tiberius, which
was given to it from having been used by the Emperor
Tiberius as the building stone in the Coliseum, erected at
his instigation in the city of Rome, when that city was the
center of the world. From whence the haughty Roman

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 171
obtained his building material has not come to light up to
the present time. To the modern world the existence of
travertine has been unknown outside of some rather small
quarries in the Mexican State of Pueblo, until the discovery
of this large body near Myers Station in this county. The
great demand for this beautiful stone for building purposes
within a few years has nearly exhausted the Mexican mines ;
so much so that a scarcity has been feared and the value has
advanced nearly twenty dollars per cubic foot for the clear
and well-colored material. To the man who has not made
geology a study, this quarry presents almost as many inter
esting subjects as it does to the geological professor. Its
beautiful colors of black, white, red, emerald, pink, opaline,
translucent old gold, russet, purple and all their varying
tints and shades, make up a combination never, perhaps,
surpassed in stone, while the vagaries that nature has shown
in various and ever-changing combinations produce an
exquisite effect. Some day this onyx claim will be of great
value. Next to mining comes stock-raising. While the valley
regions and the mountains are not altogether lacking in
this respect, many of the mountain valleys that have not
been brought under cultivation for the raising of cereals
are fairly adapted for the raising of stock, and water is-
being developed more and more every year; the lack of a
sufficiency of water has been the drawback to its being a
great stock county.
The mountains are filled with minerals, but in addition
are covered with nutritious grasses, and the climate is such
that stock rarely need be sheltered or winter-fed.
Hardy enterprising men are settling in, and each year
water is developed at points heretofore considered to be
waterless, and wells at depth produce the life-giving fluid
in abundance. At small expense reservoirs might be con
structed and filled with the surplus water that is allowed
to run to waste during the periodical rains. By this means

172 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
enough water could be impounded to supply the require
ments of a larger amount of stock than is now done; or the
water can be used for irrigating the soil for agricultural
purposes; in either way, very remunerative for the indus
trious and thrifty farmer.
In this section of the Territory, including this county, all
grasses and forage plants cure standing, and they are con
stantly increasing in variety. In the higher altitude, even
up to an elevation of 9,000 feet, is found the pine grass.
This is a bunch grass; it grows thick and high, affording
an excellent range in summer, and is of great fattening
qualities. This grass grows green in winter under the
snow, and is a main dependence at that season as food for
stock. The bunch grass of these elevated table-lands of this
county is the same as that of Montana, which is the chief
dependence of the stockmen of that State for their vast herds
through winter and summer.
On the lower table-lands these grasses do not grow, but
their places are taken by the white and black grama. The
white is the hardier, and in most places the more prevalent,
though in some localities, and on a rather lower level, the
black grama grows luxuriantly. The black mesa is given its
name from the abundant growth of this peculiar grass there.
Both the white and the black grama are very nutritious, and
are superior foods for all kinds of stock. The white grama is
used most extensively for making hay. There are many
other excellent forage plants besides these "stand-bys" that
contribute largely to the sustenance of stock in an Arizona
winter. The white sage, the chief dependence of Nevada
stockmen, is also largely distributed over the vast stock
ranges of this county, and forms no insignificant part of
the stock food in winter. There is another variety of grass
called Mormon tea, a good food-plant, having medicinal
qualities of a high order. The green sage usually grows
near the white sage, but is mostly a food for sheep. The
manzanita is much fed upon by sheep, while the chincapin,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 173
with a rabbit-ear leaf, may be considered equal to the white
sage for winter feed for sheep. There is a peculiar grass or
weed, found mostly in the valley of the Verde River, called
elm weed, which derives its name from having something of
the taste of slippery elm bark. Sheep fed upon it get fat
in a short time. When rains commence, the "six weeks"
grass at once starts up and matures in that time ; hence the
name. The grass probably of greatest importance in stock-raising
for this county is of California importation, brought in with
the sheep that came from that State with the seeds of this
valuable grass, alfileria, in their fleece. This grass grows
as a vine, from six to eight feet in length, with shoots put
ting off from the main vine ten or twelve inches, making a
perfect mat of the finest feed in the world for stock of all
kinds, and in this dry climate it lasts until rains commence
again. Another excellent forage plant seldom mentioned
by writers is the wild pea, growing in patches of an acre or
so in mountain regions, where other plants seldom grow.
It forms no sod, but is hardy and very nutritious. It grows
at higher altitudes than bunch grass, and has been found
over 9,000 feet above sea-level. The pea itself has as many
nutritive qualities as corn, and horses and sheep will leave
their accustomed ranges to get at the pea fields after frost
has killed the vines.
A grass known as blue-stem is more world-wide, being
much in evidence over the Southwest, forming the basis of
the heavy hay exports of Kansas and of Las Vegas, New
Mexico, from which points it is shipped over a large por
tion of the West and Southwest and even to Eastern points.
This grass properly cured makes the most nutritious hay,
and grows anywhere it once takes root, finding sustenance
on lava-covered hills where other plants will not flourish.
It is a grass that propagates itself rapidly when once intro
duced. Where a few years ago there was but little of it,
now vast stretches are covered, and when the growth is

174 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
matured it makes a good hay or feed, as with rain, even
after the greatest drouth, it turns green again. This is
the hardiest and perhaps most useful of all the native
grasses. The first regularly organized body of mining men to put
foot in what is now the county of Yavapai was the historical
Walker party. They met in Contra Costa County, Cal.,
May 7, 1863, leaving for Arizona soon after, and took up
their residence on what is now known as Groom Creek.
Twenty-five composed this party, and all are believed to have
passed over the great divide at this writing (1903).
In November, 1863, a party of twenty-four men arrived
from Santa Fe, New Mexico. Among them were Ed Peck
and Lew Walters, who afterwards became residents of
Prescott. As soon as the lumber for sluice-boxes could be
whip-sawed out and the sluices gotten ready, members of
this party commenced operations upon Granite Creek, wash
ing for gold. This creek, now generally a "dry" stream,
at that time carried considerable water for four or five miles
above where Prescott now is, and many men were soon at
work washing for the precious gold. Another feature of
this stream in those pioneer days, at which persons who have
only known it in recent years, may indulge in an incredu
lous smile upon hearing, is that it afforded a fine variety
of mountain trout, which contributed materially to the luxury
of many a miner's table, in those days when luxuries were
scarce. The waters seem to have withdrawn from the face
of civilization, as at this time there is no water in Granite
Creek, except when a heavy rain falls, and then only for a
few hours.
This county, in her early settlement by civilized man,
had the same difficulties to contend with as other sections
of Arizona, from the warlike and treacherous Apache In
dian; and very many of the first settlers were cut down in
their prime by these inveterate foes to all civilization. Where
one brave man fell another took his place, and today this

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 175
county stands well to the front, with the foremost in the
Territory, in the production of the precious metals, besides
being well up in other products, both useful and necessary.
Prescott, the county seat, and former capital of the Terri
tory, is now a very beautiful city of fully 5,000 inhabitants,
and is an important mining center ; and owing to the banking
facilities heavy mining transactions are frequently accom
plished at this place, without having to call upon greater
money centers. Prescott has as fine hotels as can be found
in the Southwest, except Los Angeles, and it is doubtful if
they can be excelled there. There are electric lights, but no
street cars yet. The water-works are unsurpassed by any
other town or city in the Territory or elsewhere. Owing
to the energy of the enterprising population, water is brought
in pipes 22 miles from springs in Chino Valley.
The city has numerous church edifices, and the people
are devout in proportion. Denominations are, Catholic,
Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Methodists (North and
South), Baptists (Hard and Soft-shell), Congregational
ists, Latter-day Saints (Mormons), Salvation Army,' Sev
enth Day Adventists, Divine Healers, etc. The county is
liberally supplied with schools, so much so that every child
who wishes to do so can acquire a liberal education without
leaving the county. There are three newspapers published at
Prescott, both daily and weekly, — Journal-Miner, Repub
lican, and Courier, Democratic, and one neutral.
The great interest of this county now, and for many years
to come, will be mining for the precious metals. The
development in this respect in the last few years has been
phenomenal. This county alone has sent into the world's
markets as much gold and silver as far-off frozen Alaska,
and yet it has been demonstrated that what has been pro
duced is but a small fraction of what will be produced in
the future.
This county is largely in the mountains of Central Ari
zona, and consists of mountain and rolling valleys, many of

176 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
them of considerable extent. Much of the soil of these
valleys is very fine, and in years, when that section is fav
ored with sufficient rains, they produce magnificently; but
such years are too uncertain for farming purposes, and the
remedy must be in artesian water, which can be obtained in
almost any of these valleys by going to a depth not to exceed
2,000 feet. Each well will flow water enough to irrigate
ten acres of land, maybe a little more; so it is easy to see
what a vast body of land, in this county alone, can be ren
dered a certain producer by the expenditure of a little money
and labor. Even now considerable is done in the way of
raising cattle, though in the long drouths to which Arizona
is subject whole herds perish for want of water.
The great industry upon which reliance is placed for the
subsistence and prosperity of the people is mining, and the
mines of this county stand high in the financial marts of the
world as producers.
The great mining camp of Jerome yields heavily in gold,
silver and copper. This camp is thirty-five (fifty-two by
wagon-road) miles northeast of the city of Prescott, and the
amount of money expended here in development work and
machinery is something almost marvelous, running up
into millions of dollars. This mine, or system of mines,
now belonging to Senator Clarke of Montana, yields a net
revenue that is princely, and exceeds that of many European
kingdoms. The net revenue from these properties has been
over nine millions of dollars a year for several years, so
that Senator Clarke may be put down as the richest private
individual in the world. The enormous sum of eighty mil
lions of dollars in gold coin was offered by an English
syndicate for this property, a few months since, and de
clined. It almost staggers belief when one realizes the immense
wealth that has been taken out of the ground in Yavapai
County within the last twenty years, and thrown into the
channels of the world's commerce ; yet, great as it has been,

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 177
it is but a small fraction of what it will be in the next
few years.
The altitude of Jerome is about 6,000 feet above sea-level,
which gives the place a cool and pleasant climate in summer
and not excessively cold in winter. The Congress mine,
while a great producer, is second to Jerome. There are
many other mines in the county, at different points, that
have been, and are being, operated with great profit to their
fortunate owners, and benefit to the community at large,
enabling the county to have a tax-roll of over $5,000,000
of assessable values, and this while mines are not taxed, —
only the improvements.
The city of Prescott is 136 miles, by railroad, nearly
north from Phcenix, and is the old and first capital of the
Territory. It is a pleasant and beautiful city among Yavapai
hills, at an altitude of 6,400 feet, which gives it a delightful
summer climate. The town has a' population now of about
4,500 people, and is mathematically laid out, — wide streets,
crossing each other at right angles and upon the cardinal
points of the compass, well paved and kept in good order.
There are many fine buildings in the city, all of brick. There
are three heavy banks that are rendered necessary by the
great mining transactions here accomplished, and with the
proper security almost any amount of money can be raised
at short notice.
This county, with resources sufficient for an empire in a
former age of the world, is but one of the thirteen counties
of Arizona, and it is hard to say which has the greatest
natural resources. — "Where all are kings, who shall take the
precedence ? "
The assessed valuation of this county for taxation was, to
be exact, for the year 1903, $5,801,017.99.

CHAPTER XVII
Yuma County.
Yuma is one of the original counties into which the Terri
tory of Arizona was divided by the first legislature of the
Territory, which met at Prescott in 1864. This county is
bounded on the north by Mojave County; on the east by
Yavapai, Maricopa and Pima Counties ; on the south by the
Mexican State of Sonora ; on the west by Lower California
and California ; and contains an area of 9,783 square miles,
or over one-fifth of the area of the great State of New York.
Yuma County in one respect may be styled the "Banner"
County of Arizona. Other counties have as much, maybe
some have more, fine land, capable of a high state of cul
tivation ; climate as fine, and all that ; but this county has the
land and has the water which it can not be deprived of,
except by a convulsion of nature. She has the grand Colo
rado River on her whole western border, and the Gila River
crosses the county from east to west and enters the Colorado
at Yuma City, some twenty miles from the southern boun
dary, affording much of the year a supply of water sufficient
to irrigate the bottom lands alongside it. The climate of the
whole southern portion of Yuma County is such that nearly
all kinds of fruit which are grown within the tropics can be
produced in abundance. The first settlement by Europeans
made in this county was opposite the old Fort of Yuma, on
the Arizona side of the Colorado River, where the town now
is. Two missions were established in 1778 by the Fran
ciscan fathers. These missions were destroyed by the In
dians, who rose against the priests three years later, killed
several and drove the rest away.
In 1849, so great was the travel to California, then the

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 179
new Eldorado, that a ferry was established across the river
by a discharged soldier from the United States army in
conjunction with, and protected by, the Yuma Indians. A
party of renegades, under one John Glanton, known as "Dr."
Glanton, arrived at the river about this time, having come
from Texas through the Mexican States of Chihuahua and
Sonora, committing all sorts of depredations en route, rob
bing ranches and churches and leaving desolation in their
track. This band of worthies soon discovered that the ferry
across the Colorado River at Yuma was a steady producer,
and determined to have control of the business ; one
night they attacked the Indian's boats and destroyed them,
killing the American ferryman and two Indians. For a
short time after this "victory" this party enjoyed a mon
opoly of the ferry and were fast getting rich, for, if a
party crossed with good teams rather weak-handed, they
were waylaid a few miles from the crossing and all re
morselessly murdered and the property appropriated. The
Indians kept quiet, none were seen around, or to use the
euphonious expression of " Dr " Glanton, " The d 
dare not show their faces in the presence of ' honest '
white men." "Lo" bided his time. This precious band
of cutthroats had a hilarious night over a fortunate rob
bery, but at daybreak, when all were in drunken slumber,
the avenging Indian pounced upon them in force and
slaughtered all of the party but a boy whom, perhaps, the
Indians were willing should escape. Whether the Indians
rendered God a service in exterminating this precious band
of worthies is a question, but they certainly rendered a
service to the toiling emigrant who was striking for Cali
fornia by the Yuma crossing of the Colorado River.
The Yuma City of today was first laid out and called
Colorado City in 1854, and sometime in the '60's was
changed to Arizona City, and still later to Yuma. Yuma
is now the county-seat, and by census of 1900, had a popu
lation of 1,519, but now it has, probably, fully 2,500.

i8o THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
In 1858 rich placer diggings were discovered by Jacob
Snively and others at what was, and is yet, known as Gila
City, some eighteen miles east of Yuma, and soon a
heterogeneous population of 3,000 persons gathered there.
Something like $3,000,000 were taken from the ground in
about two years. Gila City is now almost abandoned,
but occasionally an Indian will stumble on a place and get
out a few dollars in placer gold. Along the range of
mountains southerly from old Gila City, there have been
discovered some very valuable gold ledges, and one called
the "Fortuna" is worked now by C. D. Lane ; it has yielded
somewhere near to half a million dollars net per year for
several years.
In the year 1862 Captain Pauline Weaver made the dis
covery of gold placers some few miles easterly from La
Paz, and during that year as many as twelve hundred per
sons were at work there and it has been estimated that
somewhere near a million dollars in gold was taken out
that year. La Paz was the first county-seat of Yuma
County, but in 1871 it was changed to Yuma, where it is
at present and will probably remain.
In 1852 Fort Yuma was established upon the right or
west bank of the Colorado River, opposite the mouth of
the Gila River in the State of California. The Yuma In
dians were held in check to such an extent that the ferry
across the Colorado was again established, and continued
in operation with fair profit to owners until the river was
spanned by the bridge of the Southern Pacific Railroad.
The coming of this railroad into Arizona in 1878 caused
new life to enter into the Territory. The lethargy of ages
was shaken off and a new order of events took place. Prob
ably the town of Yuma since the Southern Pacific Railroad
crossed the Colorado, and continued on up the Gila River
and across the Territory, did not for a number of years
enjoy the prominence in comparison to other points of com
mercial activity that it had enjoyed before the advent of

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 181
the railroad, as it had been for some years for all south
western Arizona, and it took some time for the business
methods to adjust themselves to the changed conditions.
The act which established the Territorial Prison at Yuma,
was passed by the legislature which convened at Tucson in
1875- There is considerable agricultural land in this county
along the Gila River, which runs, in all its windings, nearly
one hundred miles through the county from east to west,
and there also is a large body upon the Colorado which
will be very remunerative when water in sufficiency shall
be gotten upon it. At present, probably, the greatest part
of the revenue of this county comes from mines as in her
barren mountains wherever one goes are found leads of
great richness and extent and in the near future Yuma
County will be a great producer of precious metals.
The Gila River rises in the vast mountain range west of
the Rio Grande in New Mexico, through which runs the
continental divide, with an eastern trend. The Gila River
enters Arizona at north latitude, about 32 ° 40', and runs
nearly a west course through Graham, Pinal, Maricopa and
Yuma Counties and joins the Colorado in nearly the same
latitude on the west, as it crosses the east line ; so its many
meanderings north and south have not deflected its current
from a west course. Considerable attention has been paid
to the agricultural lands of the Gila River, which winds its
way through some of the finest agricultural land of the
county, maybe the river with its life-giving moisture causes
the adjacent lands to be so fruitful. This valley is from
one to five miles in width, but probably for the whole dis
tance across the county it would be equivalent to a valley
of two miles wide and one hundred miles long. When
once brought under cultivation, with a sufficient amount of
water, what sustenance for a vast population would so
much soil afford.

182 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Until some general system of building reservoirs is
adopted, whereby the surplus of streams in times of high
waters can be impounded and saved to be distributed over
the land during the dry season, Arizona will remain sub
ject to great droughts and great floods by turns, and with
cultivated land in abundance only a small fraction of this
land can be tilled to a profit.
Fruit culture has so far been prosecuted upon a limited
scale and in a small way, but it has been learned from actual
experiments that it is possible to produce an excellent fruit
ready for market from four to five weeks earlier than from
the great fruit orchards around Los Angeles in California.
The climate and soil is congenial for the orange, lemon and
lime; the fruits yield in abundance. The fig and pome
granate also do well, producing fruit of such character
as if they were the native fruit of the country. The pome
granate is not recognized to be of much value in the United
States, though in Mexico it is quite highly esteemed. Of
the fig it is not easy to say which is the more desirable
variety. For eating, as the fruit comes from the tree, per
haps, the blue-black variety will afford as much satisfaction
as any, but for commercial purposes, to dry and transport
long distances, probably the white fig of Smyrna or the
Ionian Islands in the Grecian Archipelago, may be con
sidered the universal favorite. Its yield would be prodigi
ous as in the climate of Yuma the tree will produce two and
has been known to produce three crops in a single year.
Grapes, when cultivated properly, become hardy and thrifty
and all kinds mature from four to five weeks earlier than
in the vineyards around Los Angeles. Heavy wines and
brandies of a superior character can be manufactured
from these grapes. For refining wines the climate is unsur
passed anywhere. The olive grows luxuriantly and is a
profitable fruit to raise. The mulberry matures rapidly and
when rooted withstands great heat and lack of water. Most

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 183
other semi-tropical fruits grow in great abundance when
cultivated properly.
The raising of cotton has been tried for some years with
satisfactory results. When watered and pruned properly
it grows to a large tree being in flower, ball and cotton
throughout the year. These bushes or trees have in known
instances borne steadily for several years, surpassing the
most favored section in our cotton-growing States, where,.
on account of frost, it has to be planted yearly, and tenderly
cared for. Hemp grows wild, indigenous to the country,
growing to a great height, in many instances from fifteen
to seventeen feet; it has a long and strong fibre and is
worked into fishing nets and lines by the Yuma Indians.
It seeds itself annually and after the receding of an over
flow of the Colorado River, shoots up in every nook and
corner and excludes all else by its rank growth. It covers
not less than one hundred square miles of territory, com
mencing near the southern boundary line of the Gadsden
Purchase, twenty miles below Yuma City extending south
ward following the river to Hardy, where the tides
of the gulf force back the flow of the Colorado, causing a
great tumble of waters. Ramie, a fibrous plant, has also
been tried with success.
Sugar-cane has been tested with Sonora cane — the growth
was immense and the percentage of juice was much in
creased by the transplanting process. The sugar beet yields
well; two crops each year. Wheat produces wonderfully;
as an instance, four hundred and eighty-three pounds were
sown upon twenty acres, which lay some nine miles east of
Yuma City on the Gila River, and the yield an acre was
52,750 pounds, or nearly forty-four bushels of sixty
pounds to the bushel. This crop, which was irrigated three
times, was sold in San Francisco, and on account of its
plump appearance, being almost like a berry, brought fifty
cents per hundred over the best wheat in that market. Barley
does well, two crops a year, the first yielding about thirty

1 84 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
bushels to the acre, and the second fully two tons to the
acre of excellent hay. Corn can be raised in quantities and
when there is no frost can be grown the whole year. The
Cocopa corn is noted for sweetness, plumpness, and for its
solid grains and the rapidity with which it matures. In
five weeks after the time of planting, roasting ears are
plentiful. When the land is sufficiently irrigated all kinds of grasses
grow rapidly. Alfalfa can be cut from five to seven, and,
in instances not rare, eight times each year, yielding fully
two tons per acre at each cutting. A field of eight acres
yielded in one year, with, perhaps, extra care, eighty tons
of hay or ten tons to the acre, and hay that whole year
brought not less than ten dollars per ton, most of it twelve
dollars. Perhaps the most prolific and valuable crop that
can be produced is sorghum or Chinese sugar-cane. This
plant is not only valuable for its saccharine qualities from
which a valuable syrup is distilled, but as forage for mules,
horses and cattle, it is much sought after and yields from
fifteen to twenty tons per acre and has a value in the
markets of from twelve to fourteen dollars per ton. Vege
tables of all kinds grow in abundance the year through.
From fifteen pounds of potatoes, planted in bottom land, a
Gila farmer gathered seven hundred pounds of fine pota
toes, a yield of forty-six and two-thirds for one. The
sweet potato yields largely and equals the finest grown in
South Carolina.
There is some placer mining done in the county, but the
yield of precious metals is mostly from quartz mining,
though the barren mountains have not been thoroughly
gone over, and there is but little doubt that many a "For-
tuna" mine will yet be brought to light, which for years
will throw into the world's markets every month a million
or more dollars of the precious yellow metal.
The large amount of fertilizing matter brought down
the Colorado will ever be a source of wealth to the farmers

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 185
upon those bottom lands along this river in Yuma County.
The River Nile is often called "Father of Egypt," and is
known to have fertilized and supplied for fully fifty cen
turies the moisture for that hoary country, yet it is well
known that the Colorado River water carries more than
double the fertilizing matter in its bosom than old Nile
does. 'Perhaps it may be owing to the fact that the water
is continually scouring and eroding fertilizing material
from the rocks in the bottom of the Grand Canon, while
the Nile denudes mountains and washes plains for its
material. Yuma City is upon the eastern or left bank of the Colo
rado River, just below the junction of the Gila and Colo
rado Rivers and is the county-seat of Yuma County. The
Colorado River is the dividing line, from the boundary of
the county, to the center of the mouth of the Gila from
the Territory of Lower California.
The southeastern corner of the State of California is the
center of the mouth of the Gila (old mouth), and from
there to the southwest corner of Arizona, which is in the
center of Colorado River is twenty miles below the old
mouth of the Gila. The right, or western bank of the
Colorado River, is Mexican territory. I have said "old
mouth" for the reason that the point where the Gila River
now enters the Colorado River is some three miles farther
up the Colorado than it was when the boundary line be
tween the United States and Mexico was established, as
per treaty of 1853.
This county possesses within itself great natural advan
tages, perhaps in one respect ahead of any of the other
counties of Arizona, viz. : she has the Colorado of the West
occupying her whole length upon her western boundary,
while along this river at many points are large bodies of
the finest agricultural land to be found in the world, and
sufficient water in the river, even when at its lowest stage,
to irrigate it all.

1 86 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
Below the City of Yuma the Colorado River runs nearly
west some distance, say ten miles, and the general course
to the boundary line is west of south; and along the river
of the left bank in this county is an extensive bottom, for
say fifteen miles in length by eight miles in width, much of
it inundated in very high water, but of the richest quality
of soil, and with such levees as the Mississippi has, there
would be a vast body of fine agricultural land permanently
reclaimed from the turbulent river.
This great body embraces fully 70,000 acres and there
are many fine farms now producing. Probably now there
are ten thousand acres that are partially farmed but this
is only a small matter to what will be brought into the
producing column when the great works in process of con
struction shall have been carried to completion.
The whole of this vast bottom land has been formed
from sediment or overflows brought down at different times
through past ages and spread over the land until now, ex
cept in the highest stages, it is above overflow. For farm
ing purposes this bottom land upon the Colorado River is
not surpassed by any in the world. The farmers now pro
duce wheat, barley, corn, most luxuriantly and from two
to three crops each year as there are no frosts to interfere
with the growth of products the year through. Of hay,
alfalfa produces wonderfully, and in many instances pro
duces eight cuttings in a year of at least two and a half
tons to the acre each cutting. Judging from the price of hay
for several years past, each acre would net the owner at
least seventy-five dollars, if sold. Some farmers consider
it more to their advantage to raise cattle and horses and
particularly mules, thus using up their hay. Hogs are also
found to be very profitable and some farmers are now ex
tensively engaged in that branch of business.
Of fruits, all varieties that can be produced within the
tropics are grown here, and of a quality equal to the best in
the world — oranges as fine as those of Sicily, and at all sea
sons of the year, as there is no cold weather to contend with.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 187
so that at all times and often upon the same tree oranges
may be seen from flower to full maturity. Figs, equal to
those produced in Western Asia, that are marketed at
Smyrna, in Asiatic Turkey. Dates that have heretofore
been considered a product of Mesopotamia and Syria,
Western Asia, are found to do as well here as those to the
manor born. Lemons, equal to those of Sicily, do extremely
well and limes grow almost wild. Olives are produced in
great quantities ; although not cultivated much as yet, pine
apples will do well. Apricots, of an extra fine quality, grow
so luxuriantly as absolutely to become a drug.
Garden vegetables grow almost spontaneously; all that
needs to be done is to plant the seeds and they will fight
their way with the weeds and produce well. Of course
they do better when cared for.
Private parties are making several attempts to irrigate a
small portion of this tract of land, but the most exten
sive is a syndicate or corporation from the State of Wash
ington, under the superintendency of Mr. Ludy, who is an
able engineer. This company takes out of the Colorado
River, some five miles below Yuma City, quite a body of
water by means of a canal or aqueduct which extends al
ready some eight miles to a large reservoir which will hold
millions of gallons . of water. When this company shall
have finished their aqueduct with the laterals run, they can
irrigate fully 50,000 acres of as fine producing agricultural
land as there is in the world. The reservoir has been con
structed and filled with water so that should any accident
happen at the head of the canal to the machinery or other
wise, adjacent farms can be irrigated until repairs can be
made. There are already in this valley, separate from the town
of Yuma, two churches, one Methodist and one Baptist,
and there are some six school houses, so religion and edu
cation are not neglected. Crime is unknown among this
industrious and thriving people.

188 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
There is another extensive plan for irrigating what
may be considered second bottom land below Yuma
City, which, if carried out successfully, will open up a
large body of land to cultivation, say 50,000 acres, in fact,
some of it is already through what water can be gotten to
the surface by pumps and windmills, and it is found that
with water this land produces equally well with the bot
tom lands, especially fruits.
The plan is to take the water from the Colorado River,
some distance above Yuma City, pass it under the bed of
the Gila River in pipes, so that it will have a sufficient
head to irrigate this land. It may require pumping power
to get the volume of water to the proper altitude to irrigate
this second bottom land. When this is done, Yuma City
will have nearly 150,000 acres of the finest land for agri
culture at its very door, which must make Yuma City one of
the first cities of the southwest.
The mining camps of this county are numerous, as here
generally barren mountain ranges, are filled with leads of
the precious metals. There is the Castle Dome District,
that has been a heavy producer ; the Harqua Hala, that is
a great gold region. The "Fortuna" Mine, some twenty-
seven miles southeast of Yuma City, that has paid net for
several years some $50,000 per month; the Old Gila City,
never thoroughly prospected, but which yielded largely as
placer ground in the gulches many years ago. Some day
an energetic mining company will drive a tunnel into and
through the mountain and the "find" will astonish the
world. The new camp of Picacho, some thirty miles above
Yuma City, is a wonderful producer of gold, but if the
writer is not mistaken, it is in California. Yuma City has
now a population of fully 3,000 people, and is fast increas
ing, and will, at no distant day, be one of the large cities
of Arizona, as Arizona is destined to have more than one
large city. The Southern Pacific Railroad crosses the
Colorado River from California at this point.

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 189
Yuma City is a fine business point and the merchants
are apparently doing a flourishing business. Many costly
structures are being erected and the place wears an air of
prosperity. The Territorial Penitentiary is located here upon what
is known as the "Hill," on the bank of the Colorado River,
and at this time has about three hundred occupants, among
them five women, under the management of Colonel Wil
liam Griffith, and it must be said the prison is well man
aged. Perfect order is maintained and all about the place
is as neat and tidy as the best kept hotel.
Of hotels, Yuma City has several, and well conducted.
Of papers, there are two, weeklies, the Sentinel, established
in 1871, and the Sun, both ably edited.
Of churches, there are, Catholics and Methodists. The
schools are first-class, with an able corps of teachers. The
city is well lighted by electricity. Total valuation of property
for taxation, $1,277,571.69 for 1903.

CHAPTER XVIII
Closing Remarks.
This history of Arizona commences with the earliest
data attainable, and the endeavor has been to show what
possibilities there are for all parts of Arizona to become
habitable for civilized man.
When the United States acquired from Mexico by the
treaty of 1853 that portion of Arizona known as the Gads
den Purchase, it was understood to have been made not
with an intention of getting land for settlement, but to ac
quire a feasible route for a railroad through to the Pacific
Ocean, as the more northern routes, where roads have
since been constructed, were not deemed at that day prac
ticable. When the Gadsden Purchase was first acquired,
for some years it was not considered available for set
tlers, notwithstanding the elaborate reports of the country,
which were, and are as reliable as any made since, un
der the supervision of the general government, especially
those made during the administration of Franklin Pierce,
from 1853 to 1857, when the Hon. Jefferson Davis was Sec
retary of War. It was considered there was very little
land susceptible of agriculture, even too much desert for
stock ; the fact, if ever known, was lost sight of that Span
iards had at least one hundred years before vast herds of
cattle upon those desolate plains. After its acquisition the
attention of settlers for a time was directed to mining, but
transportation for all kinds of mining machinery or sup
plies was extremely high and not certain. Many times
needed machinery would be from the Eastern States fully
a twelve month en route, then frequently there was a wreck
by land or sea, and it never came to hand ; these drawbacks

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 191
made mining in those days an uncertain quantity. The
Apache Indian, also, figured largely in the list of impedi
menta to successful mining, as frequently the miners' ani
mals were stolen and maybe half the party killed ; some in
stances all were killed. For some years mining was practically
abandoned except in a few isolated cases, and of these
fewer still made the business a success.
There were several years when the main business of
the few people in the Territory was more or less in con
nection with the troops sent in to the Territory to subdue
the hostile Apaches.
Arizona embraces a large extent of country, being larger
than all New England and New York combined. Eastern
people have been very ready to speak in a commiserating
fashion of "your desert wastes," perhaps, not realizing the
vast extent of Arizona. The valley of the Salt and Gila
Rivers contains as much agricultural land of the finest qual
ity as the State of Vermont. The valley of the Gila con
tains as much agricultural land as the State of Rhode
Island. There are many valleys throughout the Territory
that contain bodies of fine land. All that is required is water
to be developed, to cause these valleys to bring forth their'
richness. On the Colorado River, which is upon the west
ern line of the Territory, is as much fine agricultural land
and plenty of water to irrigate the same as is embraced in
the State of Delaware.
Arizona has been supposed to be a treeless desert, when
the fact is she has one forest that in extent will compare
favorably with the great forest of Central Africa, described
so graphically by Stanley in his "Darkest Africa."
Arizona has in herself everything required to make a
great, rich and populous State. The great and indispen
sable article lacking is water. Once develop that and the
question as to the greatness of Arizona at no distant day
is assured. The minerals of Arizona in the mountain ranges

192 THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA
are of the greatest possible importance, not only to the in
habitants, but to the whole commercial world. The moun
tain ranges are all, without exception, filled with minerals,
among which gold and silver largely predominate in value.
There are immense deposits of copper and the output even
now is colossal, but is not to be compared with that of a few
years hence.
The great copper mines about Bisbee, in Cochise County,
are now turning out one hundred tons daily of pure copper,
and will soon double that unless copper from any cause was
to decline below cost of production. At Jerome, in Yava
pai County, or Clifton and Morenci, in Graham County,
the supply is practically unlimited. There are vast
amounts of iron, but such ore is only worked as a flux in
smelting unless' it contains, as it frequently does, the more
precious metals, gold or silver. Some of the analyzers are
doing well, in fact, making fortunes by having the tailings
of old mines worked over for the molybdenum that can be
gotten out. This is a rare metal that has been known only
a few years, or if known no practical use made of it, but
is now much sought for and used in hardening steel. Coal
exists in our mountains in large quantities, but up to this
time, too far from the railroad to be of any great value.
Not far from Fort Apache, in the White Mountains, is a
large deposit of coal and some of it has been brought out
and used in blacksmith's forges and found to do well, still
it lays there undisturbed, as it has done for many ages. Of
salt there is at least a mountain of the pure rock salt, some
forty miles nearly north from the mining city of Globe,
in Gila County, from which issues quite a stream of clear
water as strongly impregnated with salt as the ocean, and
which causes the salinity of the water of the Salt River
which must afford the water for irrigating the great valley
surrounding Phcenix, in Maricopa County. From what has
been disclosed, Arizona has great capabilities for support
ing a large population, and as population thickens in the

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA 193
older States and capital is accumulated, the tide will come
into our favored land, and our numberless valleys will be
turned into valuable producers for the necessities of a dense
population. Arizona is advancing with giant strides from its lowly
position as almost a "desert waste," and the day is not far
away in this nation's history when she will be by virtue of
her products, the keystone of the arch in the galaxy of
States. There are two classes of individuals that are enemies of
prosperity and a millstone upon the necks of the producer.
The first, and probably most deadly, is the politician. As a
class they are unscrupulous, always prating of the rights
of the people, "the dear people," but really considering the
people as fair game to be plucked. The other is known as
the "walking delegate," who, as far as he can, is endeavor
ing to break up the productive industries of the country,
whatever pretenses may be put up by interested parties,
"By their works ye shall know them," was said of old,
and is applicable today. Men can and do lie as to their
intent, but their acts tell with unerring certainty what they
intended to do, and those acts are written with an iron pen
upon adamantine tablets not to be effaced.
Citizens of Arizona, look out for the politician! Poli
ticians are insatiable and would absorb your life-blood,
while the "walking delegate" would paralyze your indus
tries, the very source of your national life.

LIST OF ORIGINAL MEMBERS OF ARIZONA
PIONEER HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Anderson, John  Deceased
Appel, Nathan B  Deceased
Appel, Horace B 
 Los Angeles, Cal.
Alsop, John T  Deceased
Aguirre, Pedro. .. .Buena Vista
Austin, Frederick L. . . Deceased
Aguirre, Pedro J  Tucson
Abadie, Paul  Tucson
Aguirre, Mariano  Tucson
Aguirre, Eugineo. . . .Red Rock
Aguirre, Filiberto  Tucson
Aldridge, A. M  Deceased
Brunier, Eugene  Tucson
Brady, Peter R  Deceased
Bartlett, John  Oro Blanco
Bartlett, John G. ...Oro Blanco
Barnes, Marshall  Deceased
Burrow, David J  Tucson
Brichta, Augustus  Tucson
Burke, Wm. H. H .... Deceased
Burke, Thomas A. D. . .Deceased
Burke, Platine R  Deceased
Burke, Frank J  Deceased
Burke, Peter F  Deceased
Buckalew, Oscar ....Helvetia
Brickwood, J. F  Nogales
Boland, Peter J  Deceased
Bailey, J. E  Deceased
Behan, John H  Phcenix
Brannan, John 
 Residence unknown
Bossing, Adam  Deceased
Baker, Charles 
 Residence unknown
Brady, Peter R., Jr  Tucson
Brady, Richard Garnett.Florence
Bradley. William F. . . Fairbanks
Brodie, Alex. O 
 Governor of Territory
Barnard, Geo. W  Deceased
Brichta, Bernibi C  Tucson

Baker, John  Tucson
Burgess, John D  Tucson
Blake, Wm. P 
 Prof, in University
Caballero, Augustus 
 New Orleans
Carillo, Leopoldo  Deceased
Chattman, Thomas B 
 Dos Cabezos
Calderwood, M. H . . . . Deceased
Crook, General Geo. . .Deceased
Carpenter, Sidney W. .Deceased
Coler, Geo. ...Soldiers' Home
Santa Monica
Carillo, Emilio. . .Tanque Verde
Caballero, Manuel  Cochise
Casey, John  Deceased
Capron, John G 
 San Diego, Cal.
Cargil, Andrew H  Yuma
Culver, W. H  Tucson
Contzen, Fritz  Tucson
Contzen, Philip  Tucson
Davis, Wm. C  Deceased
DeArmett, Berry Hill 
 Deceased
Dougherty, John O . . . Deceased
Drachman, Philip .... Deceased
Drachman, Samuel H . . . Tucson
Drachman, H. A  Tucson
Drachman, Moses  Tucson
Devine, J. J  Deceased
Devine, J. C  Florence
De Long, Sidney R  Tucson
Dorrington, John W....Yuma
De Course, Albert E.. Deceased
Dennis, John T  Phoenix
Dunn, Wm. C  Tucson
Dunn, Wm. C, Jr  Tucson
Dennis, Samuel  Phoenix
Doran, Andrew J  Prescott

195

196

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA

Elias, Jesus M  Deceased
Elias, Juan  Deceased
Elliot, J. McC  Deceased
Edwards, Edward L... Deceased
Etchell, Chas. T  Deceased
Engasser, Michael . . Greaterville
Etchell, John C  Tucson
Etchell, Pedro M  Tucson
Elias, Francisco  Deceased
Elias, Juan  Soperi
Frazer, Robert  Deceased
Foster, Geo. F  Deceased
Ferguson, William C. . Deceased
Fairbanks, Benj. D.. . .Deceased
Francis, Ferdinand . . . Deceased
Fish, Edward N  Tucson
Fish, Franklin W  Tucson
Foster, Geo. H  Tucson
Frank, Abraham  Yuma
Finley, James  Deceased
Felix. W. E  Tucson
Ferrin, Joseph  Tucson
Felix, E. R  Tucson
Goldberg, Isaac  Deceased
Gates, Thomas  Deceased
Goodwin, Francis H . . . Deceased
Gibson, Henry  Deceased
Gird, Richard .... Pomona, Cal.
Goodwin, Charles C  Yuma
Goldtree, Joseph  Deceased
Gabriel, J. S  Deceased
Grijalba, Antonio. Tres Alamos
Goodwin, Leander P  Yuma
Gibson, Pleasant M . . San Pedro
Gonzales, Ejen  Phoenix
Goldbaum, Julius  Tucson
Goldwater, Joseph .... Deceased
Goldberg, Aaron ...Deceased
Guthrie, James E  Tucson
Hughes, Samuel, Sr  Tucson
Hughes, Samuel, Jr  Tucson
Hughes, Thomas  Tucson
Hughes, Stevens S  Tucson
Hughes, David L  Tucson
Hughes, Thomas E. . . .Deceased
Hughes, James F. S . . . . Tucson
Hughes, Fred G  Tucson
Harshaw, David T. .. .Deceased
Handy, John C  Deceased
Hand, Geo. O  Deceased

Holland, Patrick  Deceased
Hart, John B  Deceased
Huckie, John G  Pima Co.
Hancock, Wm. A  Deceased
Haines, Edwin C  Deceased
Hooker, Henry C  Willcox
Hunter, T. T  Safford
Hill, John. .Residence unknown
Hubbard, Anthony G 
 Residence unknown
Henderson, David .... Deceased
Hinds, Hugh M  Deceased
Holt, Joseph B  Tucson
Hovey, John H  Ajo mine
Holmes, William A... Deceased
Jeffords, Thomas J 
 Owl Heads
Johnson, Matthew R  Mesa
Jacobs, B. M  Tucson
Jacobs, Lionel M  Tucson
Jameson, James  Deceased
Jeris, Jose. .Residence unknown
Jaeger, L. J. F  Deceased
Jaeger, Hendrick John Lewis
 Tucson
Johnson, Henry W.Daggett, Cal.
Johnson, Ulrich  Daggett, Cal.
Junior, E. S  Bradshaw
Kitchen, Peter  Deceased
Keen, Andrew J  Tucson
Kirkland, William H . . Congress
Keen, James Clark  Tucson
Lacy, Henry E  Deceased
Lazard, Alfonso . . . .Deceased
Leatherwood, R. N.... Tucson
Levin, Alexander  Deceased
Levin, Henry  Nogales
Lorette, Antonio  r 
 Residence unknown
Lyons, Isaac  Deceased
Layton, Christopher  Deceased
Luke, Charles A  Deceased
Linn, Adam  Deceased
Lopez, Peter P  Tucson
¦Madden, Daniel (Col. U. S.
A.)  Los Angeles, Cal.
McKenna, Michael  Deceased
Martin, Geo. T 
 Residence unknown

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA

197

Martin, Fritz W  Deceased
McDermott, Wm A... Deceased
Mitchell, Richard M.. Deceased
Mansfield, Jacob S... Deceased
McGowan, Edward . . . Deceased
Meyer, Chas. H  Deceased
Miller, Thomas  Deceased
Martin, George  Tucson
Matthews, Peter 
 Residence unknown
Maish, Fred  Canoe Ranch
Mansfield, M. M  Tucson
Mansfield, S. S  Tucson
Ming, Daniel H . . . Manila, P. I.
Markle, John  Yuma
Macholz, Oscar  Deceased
Moyer, J  Deceased
Montgomery, Thomas 
 on San Pedro River
Moreno, Miguel  Tucson
McCormick, R. C. .. .Deceased
Micheleno, Pedro. .Solomonville
Miller, Charles  Deceased
Miles, General Nelson A....
 Washington, D. C.
Naylor, Charles H 
 San Francisco, Cal.
Oury, William S. (First Presi
dent of Society) . .Deceased
Oury, Granville H  Deceased
Oury, Francis W  Deceased
Ochoa, Estevan, Sr. . .Deceased
Ochoa, Estevan Jr.. . .Deceased
Osborn, William J., Sr. .Tucson
Osborn, William J., Jr. Deceased
Otero, Sebino  Tucson
O'Reilley, Michael  Deceased
Palm, Barnibi  Deceased
Proctor, William C. ..Deceased
Parker, Ben. C  Deceased
Poindexter, William G. Deceased
Phy, Josephus  Deceased
Purdy, Sam  Deceased
Polhamus, Isaac  Yuma
Page, B. H  Deceased
Palmer, Horatio B  Tucson
Peralta, Miguel L  Deceased
Paxton, Chas. D  Deceased
P'ool, Josiah  Deceased
Pheby, James  Deceased
Pacheco, Jesus M  Tucson

Pacheco, Ref ugio>  Tucson
Pacheco, Mateo  Tucson
Pacheco, Nabor  Tucson
Quinlan, James  Deceased
Ross, William J  Tucson
Redding, Michael 
 Residence unknown
Rogers, Benino B  Deceased
Robertson, Robert M . . Deceased
Rusk, Theodore G  Tucson
Rusk, Robert E  Nogales
Romero, Francisco  Tucson
Stevens, Hiram S  Deceased
Sanford, Denton G. .. .Deceased
Smith, Horace B  Deceased
Scott, Wm. F  Tucson
Smith, Edward J 
 New Orleans, La.
Samaniego, Mariano G. . Tucson
Sanders, Adam  Cananea
Safford, Gov. A. P. K. .Deceased
Shibelli, Charles A.... Tucson
Sullivan, W. O  Deceased
Stevens, Geo. H 
 Residence unknown
Sampson, A. B  Tucson
Spring, John A. .Soldiers' Home
Santa Monica, Cal.
Stevens, James  Graham Co.
Smith, Lyman A  Tucson
Speedy, James  Deceased
Shibell, Charles B. . San Francisco
Sullivan, Frank 
 Residence unknown
Skinner, Wm .... Soldiers' Home
Washington, D. C.
Stevens, Thomas H  Tucson
Steel, Thomas  Willcox
Tool, James H  Deceased
Tully, P. R  Deceased
Tully, Charles H  Tucson
Townshend, Oscar Francis...
 Yuma
Thurlow, George M  Yuma
Tennier, Joseph 
 Residence unknown
Tidball, Thomas J. .. .California
Tozer, Charles W« 
 San Francisco, Cal.

198

THE HISTORY OF ARIZONA

Vanalstine, Nelson 
 Tanque Verde
Velasco, Demetrio .... Deceased
Velasco, Carlos Y  Tucson
Velasco, Louis  Tucson
Vanalstine, Nicholas. . .Deceased
Viel, Charles H  Phcenix
Witf eld, Gustave  Deceased
Waltermath, John H. C. Deceased
Warner, Solomon  Deceased
Warner, Solomon John . . Tucson
Walters, James  Deceased
Williams, Wheeler W... Tucson
Wood, Erasmus D  Deceased
Wilkins, A  Tucson
Whalen, Wm  Graham Co.
Walker, N. Barthero. . .Deceased
Weringer, William A. .Deceased

Wharton, Gabriel C... Deceased
Weldon, Albert  Deceased
Williams, R...Los Angeles, Cal.
Wood, Miles L  Benito
Warlamont, Nicholas J 
 Deceased
Wharton, W R 
 Residence unknown
Warmsey, Michael  Deceased
Wasson, John. . .Pomona, Cal.
Yerkes, Thomas M 
. . . Santa Ana, Sonora, Mex.
Yerkes, Edwin A  Deceased
Zabriskie, James A. .. .Deceased
Zeckendorf, William. New York
Zeckendorf, A W . . . . New York
Zeckendorf, Louis 
 Tucson and New York

LIST OF MEMBERS OF ARIZONA PIONEER HISTORICAL
SOCIETY, WHO CAME TO THE TERRITORY
AFTER JANUARY 1, 1870

Anderson, J. Claude  Tucson
Blankenship, James Wm 
 Nogales
Bailey, Stephen M  Tucson
Barnes, W. H  Deceased
Bernard, Allen Cunningham.
 Tucson
Bernard, Noah W  Tucson
Babcock, Kendrick C. (Presi
dent of University) .Tucson
Black, John A  Tucson
Bayless, H. C  Tucson
Corbett, J. Knox  Tucson
Conly, Andrew  Tucson
Clanberg, Chas. Robert. .Tucson
Chilson, L. D  Tucson
Drake, Charles R 
 Los Angeles, Cal.
Drake, Jean Gerard 
 Los Angeles, Cal.
Drake, William L 
 Los Angeles, Cal.
Drake, A. Garfield 
 Los Angeles, Cal.
Eber, Saly  Tucson
Fenner, Hiram W., Dr. Tucson
Fleishman, Fred  Tucson
Francis, Will E  Tucson
Freeman, Merrill Pingree ....
 Tucson
Field, B. P. W  Tucson
Graves, E. W  Tucson
Goodrich, Ben 
 Tombstone or Tucson
Hoff, Charles F  Tucson
Hoff, A. Gus  Tucson
Hereford, Frank H  Tucson
Hall, J. Howard  Tucson

Kirkpatrick, W. J  Tucson
Kent, Judge Edward. .. .Phcenix
Kengle, Slump William. Tucson
Lullv. Mark  Nogales
Lovell, Wm. McC. N... Tucson
Lord, Frank H  Seattle
Manning, L. H. (City Mayor)
 Tucson
Martin, John H  New York
Minty, General Robert H. G.
 Jerome
Magee, John E  Tucson
Murray, Inernay M  Tucson
Perry, Jas. C  Phil, Pa.
Proctor, Louis Frank ... Cananea
Rosenfeld, Bronath  Tucson
Reid, William  Tucson
Ronstatd, Jose M  Tucson
Rockridge, James George...
 Tucson
Russell, E. Frank  Tucson
Schumacher, C. F  Tucson
Steinf elt, Albert  Tucson
Sturgis, William Spencer 
 Tucson
Schofield, Geo. P  Tucson
Sheldon, R. K  Tucson
Smith, Marcus A  Tucson
Scolari, John  Tucson
Tenney, Herbert B  Tucson
Treat, Frank S  Tucson
Trippel, Eugene J  Tucson
Van Kuen, Elihu P  Tucson
Woodward, Sherman Wm....
 Tucson
Wetmore, Edward L.... Tucson

199

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