YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

1941

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St. Elmo Pass, between Winthrop Glacier and Interglacier. View from North side.
'THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'"
Illustrated with maps and 140 views of Mt. Rainier (Tacoma),
including eight three-color half-tones.
In stout boards, with colored half-tone view of the Mountain and
North Mowich Glacier in a storm, on front cover $1.00 net
By mail, 12 cents extra
In heavy paper covers, with poster design of the Mountain in colors
and gilt, embossed $0.50 net
By mail, 7 cents extra
Published by
JOHN H. WILLIAMS, TACOMA. WASHINGTON.
Sunrise above the clouds, seen from Camp Curtis, on the Wedge, with White Glacier below.
Sunset Reflection on Spanaway Lake, in one of Tacoma's suburban parks, with the Mountain forty miles distant

T

HE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS
"GOD" <£ BEING A LITTLE BOOK
ABOUT THE GREAT PEAK WHICH THE
INDIANS CALLED "TACOMA" BUT WHICH
IS OFFICIALLY NAMED "RAINIER" * J-

BY
JOHN H. WILLIAMS

O, rarest miracle of mountain heights,
Thou hast the sky for thy imperial dome,
And dwell'st among the stars all days and nights,
In the far heavens familiarly at home.
—WilHam Hillis Wynn: "Mt. Tacoma; an Apotheosis.

TACOMA
Published by the Author
1910

Narada Falls, 175 feet, with Eagle Peak. It has been proposed to change the name
to Cushman Falls, in recognition of the late F. W. Cushman's work in
Congress for the Government Road, which passes near the falls.

Copyright, 1910 by John H. Williams

On the summit of Eagle Rock in winter. Boys looking over an 800-foot precipice.

FOREWORD
Every summer there is demand for illustrated literature describing the mountain
variously called "Rainier" or "Tacoma." Hitherto, we have had only small collections
of pictures, without text, and confined to the familiar south and southwest sides.
The little book which I now offer aims to show the grandest and most accessible
of our extinct volcanoes from all points of view. Like the glacial rivers, its text will
be found a narrow stream flowing swiftly amidst great mountain scenery. Its abundant
illustrations cover not only the giants' fairyland south of the peak, but also the equally
stupendous scenes that await the adventurer who penetrates the harder trails and climbs
the greater glaciers of the north and east slopes. No book will ever be large enough
to tell the whole story. That must be learned by summers of severe though profitable
toil. The heroic features which the ice-streams have carved upon the face of Mount
"Big Snow," with their fascinating "parks" and flower-fields, their silvery cascades and
gray glacial torrents, are every year becoming more friendly to visitors. Each summer
sees more and better trails. The capital highway built by Pierce County through the
Nisqually valley to the Forest Reserve and the road made by the government engineers
up to the Nisqually glacier and the Paradise country have already opened a wonderland
to the automobilist. Both these roads, however, should be widened; and the government
road should, by all means, be continued around the Mountain, crossing the canyons
below each glacier, and winding up to the glorious table-lands above. It will be a great
day for the lover of the mountains when Congress, awakening to the value of the whole
Park, shall make it easy to know all the charm and inspiration of this priceless national
playground. The title adopted for the book has reference, of course, to the Indian nature
worship, of which something is said in the opening chapter. Both the title and a small
part of the matter are reprinted from an article which I contributed last year to the
New York Evening Post. Attention is called to the tangle in the names of glaciers and
the need of a definitive nomenclature. As to the name of the Mountain itself, that
famous bone of contention between two cities, I greatly prefer "Tacoma," one of the
several authentic forms of the Indian name used by different tribes; but I believe that
"Tahoma," proposed by the Rotary Club of Seattle, would be a justifiable compromise,
and satisfy nearly everybody. Its adoption would free our national map from one more
of its meaningless names — the name, in this case, of an undistinguished foreign naval
officer whose only connection with our history is the fact that he fought against us

8 THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"
during the American Revolution. Incidentally, it would also free me from the need
of an apology for using the hybrid "Rainier - Tacoma" !
The purpose of the book, however, is descriptive rather than controversial. Its
plan leaves most of the story to the illustrations, with their explanatory "underlines."
I have cut down the text in order to make room for the largest possible number of pic
tures. In selecting these, several thousand negatives and photographs have been exam
ined. The ones used here include many noteworthy views never before shown in any pub
lication—pictures that tell a great story. Conditions met by every photographer of
ice scenes make it difficult, sometimes, to obtain perfect copy for the engraver. The
collection as a whole, however, is as representative as can be made till some of the
glaciers shall have been more fully explored. Owing to the disproportion of cuts to
text, it has not always been possible to follow a logical order in placing the illustrations;
but the full descriptions given, together with the map, will aid the reader to form a
clear idea of the geography of the National Park and the characteristic aspects of the
peak. I shall be grateful for correction of any errors, and for information as to photo
graphs that may add to the value of future editions.
Many of the illustrations show wide reaches of wonderful country, and their details
may well be studied with a reading glass.
I am much indebted to the librarians and their courteous assistants at the Seattle
and Tacoma public libraries; also to Prof. Flett for his interesting account of the flora
of the National Park; to Mr. Eugene Ricksecker, of the United States Engineer Corps,
for permission to reproduce his new map of the Park, now printed for the first time;
and, most of all, to the photographers, both professional and amateur. In the table of
illustrations, pages 11 to 13, credit is given the maker of each photograph.
The book is sent out in the hope of promoting a wider knowledge of our country's
noblest landmark. May it lead many of its readers to delightful days of recreation and
adventure !
Tacoma, June 1, 1910. J. H. W.

The Mountain from Puyallup River, near Tacoma.

White Glacier and Little Tahoma, with Eastern end of the Tatoosh in distance.

CONTEXTS Page
I. Mount "Big Snow" and Indian Tradition  15
II. The National Park and How to Reach It  37
III. The Story of the Mountain  68
IV. The Flora of the Mountain Slopes, by Prof. J. B. Flett  90
V. The Climbers  102

Copyright, 1900, by A. H. Waite
Basaltic Columns, part of "the Colonnade" on south side of South Mowich Glacier. These curious six-sided columns
of volcanic rock, about 150 feet high, are similar to those bordering the Cowlitz Glacier.

ITS,

Crevasses in Stevens Glacier, with Cowlitz Glacier and the Cowlitz Park country beyond.

View from above Sluiskin Falls, at 3 p. m.

ILLUSTRATIONS
Titles marked * indicate engravings made from copyrighted photographs.
under the illustration.

See notice

THREE-COLOR HALF-TONES
Title. Photographer. Page.
Spanaway Lake, with Reflection of the Mountain  A. H. Barnes. Frontispiece
View from Electron, Showing West Side of the Mountain  Asahel Curtis. 19
View Northward from Top of Pinnacle Peak  Dr. F. A. Scott. 46
Looking Northeast from Slope of Pinnacle Peak  Dr. F. A. Scott. 47
* Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier  A. H. Barnes. 57
* Spray Park from Fay Peak  W. P. Romans. 76
Crevasse in Carbon Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 85
North Mowich Glacier and the Mountain in a Storm  George V. Caesar. 95
ONE -COLOR HALF TONES
St. Elmo Pass  A. W. Archer. 2
Sunrise above the Clouds, at Camp Curtis  Asahel Curtis. 2
Narada Falls and Eagle Peak  A. II. Barnes. 6
On the Summit of Eagle Rock in Winter  George V. Caesar. 7
The Mountain from Puyallup River  B. L. Aldrich, Jr. 8
White Glacier and Little Tahoma  Asahel Curtis. 9
* Basaltic Columns near end of South Mowich Glacier  A. H. Waite. 9
Crevasses in Stevens Glacier, with Cowlitz Glacier Beyond  Charles Bedford. 10
View from above Sluiskin Falls, 3 p. m  Mrs. H. A. Towne. 11
From above Sluiskin Falls, 4 p. m., same day  Mrs. H. A. Towne. 13
* The Mountain from Lake Washington  Romans Photographic Co. 14
* Lost to 'the World  Asahel Curtis. 15
Snow Slopes, Upper Moraine Park  George V. Caesar. 15
Iron and Copper Mountains in Indian Henry's  A. G. Bowles, Jr. 16
Ice Terraces, South Tahoma Glacier  Rodney L. Glisan. 16
* North Peak and South Mowich Glacier in Storm  A. H. Waite. 17
"Ghost Trees"  Mrs. H. A. Towne. 18
Mountain Goat  A. H. Barnes. 1 8
Waterfall over Island of Rock, Stevens Glacier  Dr. F. A. Scott. 21
View South from Cowlitz Glacier to Mt. Adams  Charles Bedford. 22
Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake  A. H. Barnes. 23
Mineral Lake and the Mountain  A. H. Denman. 23
* Snow Lake in Indian Henry's  A. H. Barnes. 24
Cowlitz Glacier, Crevasses  Charles Bedford. 25
Paradise River, below its Glacier  A. H. Barnes. 26

12 THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

26

Steam Caves in one of the Craters  Asahel Curtis.
West Side of Summit from Tahoma Fork  A- H- Barnes. /
View of the Mountain from Beljica Peak  A- H- B ^nes' *
Great Rock on Ridge between North and South Tahoma Glaciers. . .Dr. F. A. Scott. za
Wind swept Trees on North Side  George V. Caesar. 30
Exploring an Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier  Dr. F. A Scott. 3U
Peak Success from Indian Henry's  Mrs- **¦ A. Towne. 31
Mt. St. Helens from Indian Henry's  ¦ •  A.H. fames. dz
The Mountain from Top of Cascades  • s- c; °m™' %6
Ptarmigan, the Grouse of the Ice Fields  ^a q +?' tl
Climbing the Ice Terraces of Winthrop Glacier  • Dr. F. A hcott. 34
Portion of Spray Park  George V. Caesar. 35
Perilous Position on Crevasse in Cowlitz Glacier  Charles Bedford. 36
On Pierce County Road, Passing Ohop Valley  S. C. Lancaster. 37
Cowlitz Chimneys  s- C. Smith. 37
* Old Road near Spanaway  A. H. Barnes. 38
Mystic Lake and Sluiskin Mountains  Asahel Curtis. 38
Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon, Pierce County Road . . . Asahel Curtis. 39
Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage  Dr. F. A. Scott. 39
One Mile of Carbon Glacier  A. H. Denman. 40
Camp on St. Elmo Pass, North Side of the Wedge  Asahel Curtis. 40
Little Mashell Falls, near Eatonville  A. H. Barnes. 41
Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs  A. H. Barnes. 42
Government Road in the Forest Reserve  • S. C. Lancaster. 43
Ingraham Glacier Flowing Into Cowlitz Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 43
* On the Summit, Showing Columbia's Crest  Asahel Curtis. 44
Party Leaving the National Park Inn for Paradise Park  Linkletter Photo Co. 44
On the Government Road a Mile Above Longmire's  Linkletter Photo Co. 49
Glacier Table, on Winthrop Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 49
Snout of Nisqually Glacier  Linkletter Photo Co. 50
Washington Torrents  A. H. Barnes. 50
Coming Around Frying - Pan Glacier  Dr. F. A. Scott. 51
Mt. Adams, seen from the Indian Henry Trail  A. H. Barnes. 51
Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from South Tahoma Glacier  A. H. Denman. 52
* Southwest Side of Mountain, seen from Indan Henry's  A. H. Barnes. 53
Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers  A. H. Denman. 54
Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass  Asahel Curtis. 54
Portion of Paradise Valley and Tatoosh Range  A. H. Barnes. 55
Eastern Part of Tatoosh Range  A. H. Barnes. 55
Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier  Dr. F. A. Scott. 56
Tug of War  Asahel Curtis. 56
Reese's Camp  C. E. Cutter. 59
Climbing Paradise Glacier  Dr. F. A. Scott. 59
Nisqually Glacier, from Top of Gibraltar Rock  Asahel Curtis. 60
Sluiskin Falls, below Paradise Glacier  A. H. Barnes. 61
Looking across Winthrop Glacier to Steamboat Prow  Asahel Curtis. 61
Fairy Falls, in Goat Lick Basin  A. H. Barnes. 62
* Checkerboard Crevasse, Cowlitz Glacier  S. C. Smith. 63
Paradise Valley and Tatoosh Mountains  A. H. Barnes. 64
Stevens Canyon, with Mt. Adams in Distance  A. H. Barnes. 65
Mountain Climbers on St. Elmo Pass  A. W. Archer. 66
Passing a big Crevasse on Interglacier  Asahel Curtis. 67
The Mountaineers on Winthrop Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 68
Mountaineers on Carbon Glacier  Asahel Curtis! 68
* Nisqually Glacier, with Its Sources .  A. H. Barnes. 69
Looking North from Cowlitz Chimneys over Cowlitz Glacier .... Charles Bedford. 70
Measuring the Ice Flow, Nisqually Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 71
One of the Modern Craters  Asahel Curtis. 72-73
Climbing the Cowlitz Cleaver  Asahel Curtis' 72
Lunching in a Crevasse  Asahel Curtis. 73
Ice - bound Lake, Cowlitz Park  S. C. Smith. 74
Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier  S. C. Smith 74
Mazamas Rounding Gibraltar  Rodney L. Glisan 77
Climbing the "Chute," West Side of Gibraltar  Asahel Curtis! 78
View of the Summit from Top of Gibraltar  A. H. Waite 79

ILLUSTRATIONS

13

Looking up White Glacier to Little Tahoma  Dr. F. A. Scott. 80
North Peak, or "Liberty Cap"  A. W. Archer. 81
Crossing a Precipitous Slope, White Glacier  A. W. Archer. 82
Hydro - Electric Plant at Electron  83
Building Tacoma's New Power Plant on the Nisqually (3)  George V. Caesar. 84
Admiral Peter Rainier  87
Echo Rock, on West Branch of Carbon Glacier  A. W. Archer. 87
East Side of the Mountain from Summer Land  J. B. Flett. 88
View North from Mt. Ruth, looking over Grand Park  J. B. Flett. 89
* Looking over Moraine Park to Carbon Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 90
Anemones  Miss Jessie Kershaw. 90
A 14-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake  A. H. Barnes. 91
Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park  A. H. Barnes. 92
An Eminent Scientist Practices the Simple Life  93
Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's  A. H. Barnes. 93
Mountain Asters  A. H. Barnes. 94
Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies  Mrs. H. A. Towne. 94
Studying the Phlox  J. B. Flett. 97
Squaw Grass or Mountain Lily  Miss Jessie Kershaw. 97
Mosses and Ferns   Charles Bedford. 98
Avalanche Lilies  Asahel Curtis. 99
* Moraine Park, Sluiskin Mountains and Moraine Lake  Asahel Curtis. 100
Canada Dogwood  Miss Jessie Kershaw. 100
The Mountain from Fox Island  Charles Bedford. 101
Glacial Debris, Winthrop. Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 102
Paradise Valley, with South - Side Route to the Summit  Asahel Curtis. 102
* Oldest and Youngest Climbers, Gen. Stevens and Jesse McRae .... C. E. Cutter. 103
P. B. Van Trump  103
* Amphitheater of Carbon Glacier  Asahel Curtis. 1 04
* Avalanche Falling on Willis Wall. .Photo, Lee Bronson; Copyright, P. V. Caesar. 105
East Side of Mountain, with Route to Summit over White Glacier. . Asahel Curtis. 106
Building Trail on Carbon Glacier Moraine  Asahel Curtis. 106
Mountaineers' Camp in Moraine Park, overlooking Carbon Glacier. .Asahel Curtis. 107
Ice Pinnacles, or Serracs, on Carbon Glacier  A. W. Archer. 107
Looking Southeast from Mt. Rose, above Eunice Lake  George V. Caesar. 108
Looking Southwest from Mt. Rose  George V. Caesar. 109
* Spray Falls   Asahel Curtis. 110
* The Mountain from Green River Hot Springs  C. E. Cutter. Ill
Returning from the Summit  Asahel Curtis. Ill
MAPS
Puget Sound Country and Roads to the Mountain  Inside of Back Cover
Rainier National Park  Inside of Back Cover

From above Sluiskin Falls, at 4 p. m., showing the approach of a storm. Taken same day as preceding view.

The Mountain from beautiful Lake Washington, Seattle.

Copyright, 1906, by Romans Photographic Co.

Copyright, 1909, by Asahel Curtis

Lost to the World, 7,500 feet above sea level.

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD."

I.

MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION.
Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale
Her infinite variety. — Antony and Cleopatra.

THE great mountain fascinates
us by its diversity. It is an
inspiration and yet a riddle to
all who are drawn to the mysterious
or who love the sublime. Every view
which the breaking clouds vouchsafe
to us is a surprise. It never becomes
commonplace, save to the common
place. Old Virgil's gibe at mankind's
better half — "varium et mutabile
semper femina" — might have been
written of this fickle shape of rock
and ice and vapor. One tries vainly,
year after year, to define it in his
own mind. The daily, hourly change
of distance, size and aspect, tricks
which the Indian's mountain god
plays with the puny creatures swarm
ing more and more about his foot, his
days of frank neighborliness, his
swift transformations from smiles to
anger, his fits of sullenness and with-

%£<W I

Crossing a Snow Slope, upper part of Moraine Park.

16

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Iron and Copper Mountains (right) in Indian Henry's. The top of Pyramid Peak
shows in the saddle beyond, below Peak Success.
drawal, all baffle study. Even though we live at its base, it is impossible to say
we know the mountain, so various are the spells the sun casts over this huge
dome which it is slowly chiseling away with its tools of ice, and which, in
coming centuries, it will level with the plain.
We are lovers of the water as well as the hills, out here in this Northwestern
corner of the Republic. We spend many days — and should spend more — in
cruising among the hidden bays and park-like islands which make Puget Sound
the most interesting body of water in America. We grow a bit boastful about
the lakes that cluster around our cities. Nowhere better than from sea level,
or from the lakes raised but little above it, does one realize the bulk, the domi
nance, and yet the
grace, of this noble
peak. Its impres-
s i v eness, indeed,
arises in part from
the fact that it is
one of the few
great volcanic
m o u ntains whose
entire height may
be seen from tide
level. Many of us
can recall views of ;'
i t from Lake Wash
ington at Seattle, J
or from American a
Ice Terraces on South Tahoma Glacier. These vast steps are one of the formations seen 0r Spanaway Lake
when a glacier moves down a steep and irregular slope. at T a C 0 HI 3 OV

lOi* i'V / .;¦ "7*""

Copyright, 1900, by A. H. Waite
North Peak and South Mowich Glacier in Storm, seen from an altitude of 6,000 feet, on ridge between North Mowich and Puyallup Glaciers. The Glacier,
2,000 feet below, is about half a mile wide. Note the tremendous wall of ice in which it ends.

IS

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

from the Sound, which will always
haunt the memory.
Early one evening, last summer,
I went with a friend to Point De
fiance, Tacoma 's fine park at the
end of the promontory on which
the city is built. We drank in re
freshment from that scene of broad
channels and evergreen shores. We
watched the gathering colors in the
West, over the Olympics. As sunset
approached, we rowed far out
Northward into the Sound. The
Western sky became a conflagra
tion. Twilight settled upon the bay.
The lights of the distant town came
out, one by one, and those of the big
smelter, near by, became brilliant.
Xo Turner ever dreamed so glorious
a picture of sunlight and shade.
But we were held by one vision.
Yonder, in the Southeast, tower
ing above the lower shadows of har
bor and hills, rose a vast pyramid ,
of soft flame. The setting sun had
thrown a mantle of rose pink over
the ice of the glaciers and the great
cleavers of rock which buttress the
mighty dome. The rounded summit

Mountain Goat, an ace
at a distance of

dental snap-shot
100 feet.

"Ghost Trees." These white stalks, seen in Indian Henry's and
Paradise Valley, tell of fires set by careless visitors.
was warm with beautiful orange light. Soon
the colors upon its slope changed to deeper
reds, and then to amethyst, and violet, and
pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell
away to dark neutral tints. But the fires upon
the crest burned on, deepening from gold to
burnished copper, a colossal beacon flaming
high against the sunset purple of the Eastern
skies. Finally, even this great light paled to
a ghostly white, as the supporting foundation
of mountain ridges dropped into the darkness
of the long Northern twilight, until the snowy
summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but

View from Electron, showing west side of the Mountain, with a vast intervening country of forested ranges and deep canyons

MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION

21

a veil of uncanny mist, caught up by the winds from the Pacific and floating far
above the black sky-line of the solid Cascades, that
* * * heaven-sustaining bulwark, reared
Between the East and West.
And when even this apparition had faded, and the Mountain appeared only
as a dim bulk silhouetted upon the night, then came the miracle. Gradually,
the East, beyond the great hills, showed a faint light. The profile of the peak
became more definite. With no other warning, suddenly from its summit the
full moon shot forth, huge, majestic and gracious, flooding the lower world
with brightness. Clouds and mountain ranges alike shone with its glory. But
the great peak loomed blacker and more sullen. Only, on its head, the wide
crown of snow gleamed white under the cold rays of the moon.
No wonder that this mountain of changing moods, overtopping every other
eminence in the Northwest, answered the idea of God to the simple, imaginative
mind of the In
dians who hunted
in the forest on
its slopes or
fished in the
waters that ebbed
and flowed at its
base. Primitive
peoples in every
land have deified
superlative mani
festations of na
ture — the sun,
the wind, the
great rivers and
w a t e rfalls, the
high mountains.
By all the tribes
within sight of its
summit, this pre-
eminent peak,
called by them
Tacoma, Tahoma
or Tacob, as who
should say "The
Great Snow, ' ' was
deemed a power
to be feared and
conciliated. Even
when the mission
aries taught them
a better faith, they

Waterfall over island of rock, middle of Stevens Glacier. Note the Ice Wall above.

View South from Cowlitz Glacier; elevation, 8,000 feet. Seven miles away are the huge eastern peaks of the Tatoosh. The Cascades beyond break in Cispus Pass, and rise
on the left, to snow-peaks called "Goat Rocks," but deserving a better name. The truncated cone of Mt. Adams, more than forty miles away, crowns the sky-line

MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION

continued to hold the
mountain in super
stitious reverence —
an awe that still has
power to silence their
"civilized" and very
unromantic descend
ants. The Puget Sound
tribes, with the Yak-
imas, Klickitats and
others living just be
yond the Cascades,
had substantially the
same language and
beliefs, though differ
ing in physical type.
East of the range,
they lived by the
e h a s e. They were
great horsemen and
famous runners, a breed of lithe, upstanding

Mineral Lake and the Mountain.

Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake, viewed from near Mineral Lake Inn.

handsome men. Here on the
Coast were the "Digger"
tribes, who subsisted chiefly
by s p e a r i n g salmon and
digging clams. Their stooped
figures, flat faces, downcast
eyes and low mentality re
flected the life they led. Con
trasting their heavy bodies
with their feeble legs, which
grew shorter with disuse, a
Tacoma humorist last sum
mer gravely proved to a
party of English visitors that
in a few years more, had not
the white man seized their
fishing grounds, the Siwashes
would have had no legs at all.
Stolid as he seemed to the
whites, the Indian of the
Sound was not without his
touch of poetry. He had that
imaginative curiosity which
marked the native American

MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION

25

Cowlitz Glacier, Crevasses caused by'flexure in its bed

everywhere. He was ever peering into the causes of things, and seeing the
supernatural in the world around him. *
To the great Snow Mountain the Indians made frequent pilgrimages, for
they thought this king of the primeval wild a divinity to be reckoned with.
They dreaded its anger, seen in the storms about its head, the thunder of its
avalanches, and the volcanic flashes of which their traditions told. They
courted its favor, symbolized in the wild flowers that bloomed on its slope, and
the tall grass that fed the mowich, or deer.
As they ascended the vast ridges, the grandeur about them spoke of the

* Among those who have studied the Puget Sound Indians most sympathetically is the
Rev. Mr. Hylebos of Tacoma. He came to the Northwest in 1870, when the Federal census
gave the sawmill hamlet of Tacoma a white population of seventy-three, and while the
Indians hereabout numbered thousands. In those days, says Father Hylebos, the Tacoma
tideflats, now filled in for mills and railway terminals, were covered each autumn with the
canoes of Indians, spearing salmon for their winter's supply. It was no uncommon thing
to see at one time on Commencement Bay 600 boats, 1,800 fishermen. This veteran worker
among the Siwashes (French, sauvages) first told me the myths that hallowed the mountain
for every native, and the true meaning of the beautiful Indian word "Tacoma." He knew
well all the leaders of the generation before the railways: Sluiskin, the Klickitat chief who
guided Stevens and Van Trump up to the snow line when they made the first ascent in 1870;
Stanup, chief of the Puyallups; Kiskax, head of the Cowlitz tribe; Angeline, the famous
daughter of Chief Seattle, godfather of the city of that name, and many others.

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

m o un tain god.
T here were
groves of trees he
must have plant
ed, sd o r d e r 1 y
were they set out.
The hikes of the
lofty v a 1 leys
s e e m e d calmer
than those on the
prairies b e 1 o w,
the foliage
b r i gh t er. The
song of the
waterfalls here
was sweeter than
the music of the
tamahnawas men,
their Indian sor
cerers. The many
small meadows
close to the
snow - line, c a r-
peted in deepest green and spread with flowers, were the gardens of the
divinity, tended by his superhuman agents. No wood in ancient Greece was
ever peopled by hamadryads so real as the little gods whom the Indian saw in
the forests watered bv streams from Tacoma 's glaciers.

Paradise River, below its Glacier, with Little Tahoma in distance.

..¦«-*»

Steam Caves in one of the Craters. The residual heat of the extinct Volcano causes steam and gases to escape from
vents in the rims of the two small Craters. Alpinists often spend a night in the Caves thus formed in the Snow.

¦ r -*mfa

West Side of the Summit, seen from Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually. Note the whiteness of the Glacial Water

View from Beljica. Xhis great picture shows the deeply indented West Side of the Mounta
North Tiiluimn and Puyallup. In the foreground is

Beginning at extreme right, the Glaciers are. successively: Kautz. South Tahoma
: Canyon of Xahoraa Fork of the NisQuslIy.

MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION

29

Great Rock on the Ridge separating the North and South Tahoma Glaciers, with Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually
several miles below. Seen right of center on page 28.
Countless snows had fallen since the mountain god created and beautified
this home of his, when one day he grew angry, and in his wrath showed terrible
tongues of fire. Thus he ignited an immense fir forest on the south side of
the peak. When his anger subsided, the flames passed, and the land they left
bare became covered with blue grass and wild flowers — a great sunny country
where, before, the dark forest had been. Borrowing a word from the French
coureurs des bois who came with the Hudson's Bay Company, the later
Indians sometimes called this region "the Big Brule"; and to this day some
Americans call it the same. But for the Big Brule the Indians had, from
ancient times, another name, connected with their ideas of religion. It was
their Saghalie Illahe, the "Land of Peace," Heaven. Our name, "Paradise
Valley," given to the beautiful open vale on the south slope of the mountain,
is an English equivalent.
Here was the same bar to violence which religion has erected in many lands.
The Hebrews had their "Cities of Eefuge." The pagan ancients made every
altar an asylum. Mediaeval Christianity constituted all its churches sanctuaries.
Thus, in lawless ages, the hand of vengeance was stayed, and the weak were
protected.

?,<)

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD'

Wind Swept Trees on North Side, the last below the line of Eternal Snow

So. too. the Indian
t r a d it ion ordained]
this home of rest and
refuse. Indian cus
tom was an eye for;
an eye. but on gain-]
ing this mountain]
haven the pursue J
was safe from his!
pursuer, the slayer!
might not be touched]
by his victim's kin-!
d r e d. When he
crossed its border,
the warrior laid down
his arms. Criminals
and cowards, too, were often sent here by the chiefs to do penance.
The mountain divinity, with his under-gods, figures in much of the Siwash
folk-lore, and the "Land of Peace" is often heard of. It is through such
typical Indian legends as that of the Greedy Hiaqua Hunter that we learn how
large a place the great Mountain filled in the thought of the aboriginees.
This myth also explains why an Indian could never be persuaded to make
the ascent, farther than the snow line. Even so shrewd and intelligent a
Siwash as Sluis
kin, with all his
keenness for
' ' Boston chika -
min," the white
man's money, re
fused to accom
pany Stevens and
Van Trump, in
1870 ; and indeed
save them up as
doomed when
they defied the
Mountain ' s
wrath and start
ed for the sum
mit in spite of
his warnings.
The hero of
the Hiaqua Myth
is the Indian Rip c . . „ T „ „ , _, .
1 Exploring an Ice Gave, Paradise Glacier

View of Peak Success and West side of the Mountain from Indian Henry's, with reflection.

Rounded Cone of Mt. St. Helens, seen from Indian Henry's, 50 miles away.

MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION

33

Van Winkle. *
Crazy for hiaqua,
or shell money,
and persuaded by
Moosmoos,the elk
divinity, his own
totem, that on top
of the mountain
he would find
great store of it,
he climbed to the
summit. Here he
found three big
rocks, one of
which looked like
his friendly
Moosmoos. Over
turning this after
long digging, he
uncovered many
strings of hiaqua
— enough to make
him the richest
of men. But he
meanly seized it
all, leaving no
thank-offering to
the tamahnawas
powers. There-
upon the whole
earth shook with
a mighty convul
sion, and the Mountain shot forth terrible fires and poured streams of water
(lava?) down its sides.
Panic-stricken at the results of his greed, the man threw down his load of
treasure to propitiate the angry deity ; and then fell on the ground and entered
the land of sleep. Long, long after, he awoke to find himself far from the
summit, in a pleasant country of beautiful meadows, carpeted with flowers,
and musical with the song of birds. He had grown very old, with snow-white
hair falling to his shoulders. Recognizing the scene about him as Saghalie
Illahe, he sought his old tent. It was where he had left it, and there, too, was
his "klootchman," or wife, grown old, like himself. Back they went to their
home on the bank of the Cowlitz, where they spent the rest of their days in
great honor. For his tribesmen recognized that the aged Indian's heart had

The Mountain, seen from top of the Cascades, with party starting due West
for Paradise Valley.

" See Prof. W. D. Lyman's papers on the Indian leg-ends, in "Mazama,'
Mountaineer," Vol. 2; also Winthrop's "Canoe and Saddle."

Vol. 2, and "The

34 THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" been m a rvel ously
softened and his mind
enriched by his ex-,
perience upon the
mountain. Thus he
became the most re
spected of all the
tamahnawas men of
his time.
Such legends show
the Northwestern In
dian, like savages
everywhere, mingling
his conception of
Deity with his ideas
of the evil one. Sym
bolism pervaded his
crude but very positive mind. Ever by his side the old Siwash felt the
Power that dwelt on Tacoma, protecting and aiding him, or leading him
to destruction. Knowing nothing of true worship, his primitive intelli
gence could imagine God only in things either the most beautiful or the most
terrifying ; and the more we know the Mountain, the more easily we shall
understand why he deemed the majestic peak a factor of his destiny — an
infinite force that could, at will, bless or destroy.

Ptarmigan, the Grouse of the ice-fields. Unlike its neighbor, the Mountain Goat,
this bird is tame, and may sometimes be caught by hand. In winter,
its plumage turns from brown to white.

Climbing the Ice Terraces of Winthrop Glacier.

Portion of Spray Park, with North Side view of the Mountain, showing Observation Rock and Timbe
Elevation of Camera, 7,000 feet.

Line

\ : ¦ V*'" iHrt^*-', ' ' ':¦ ^'¦S-'^^iJ ¦

I

H«rf '..

A perilous position on the edge of a great Crevasse. Cowlitz Glacier, near end of Cathedral Rocks.

On Pierce County's splendid scenic road to the Mountain. Passing Ohop Valley.

II.
THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT.
There are plenty of higher mountains, but it is the decided isolation — the absolute
standing alone in full majesty of its own mightiness — that forms the attraction of
Rainier. * * * It is no squatting giant, perched on the shoulders of other
mountains. From Puget Sound, it is a sight for the gods, and one feels in the presence
of the gods. — Paul Fountain: "The Seven Eaglets of the West" (London, 1905).

T

HE first explorers to climb the Mountain, forty years ago, were compelled
to make their way from Puget Sound through the dense growths of one
of the world 's greatest

forests, over lofty ridges and
deep canyons, and across per
ilous glacial torrents. The
hardships of a journey to the
timber line were more form
idable than any difficulties to
be encountered above it.
Even from the East the
first railroad to the Coast had
just reached San Francisco.
Thence the traveler came
north to the Sound by boat.
The now busy cities of Seattle
and Tacoma were, one, an
ambitious village of 1,107 in
habitants; the other, a saw
mill, with seventy persons liv
ing around it. They were

Cowlitz Chimneys, seen from basin below Frying- Pan Glacier,

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

On the way out from Tacoma the Automobilist sees many scenes like this Old Road near Spanaway Lake
frontier settlements, outposts of civilization ; but civilization paid little
attention to them and their great Mountain, until the railways, some years
later, began to connect them with the big world of people and markets beyond
the Rockies.
How different the case today! Six transcontinental railroads now deliver
their trains in the Puget Sound cities. These are : The Northern Pacific, which

Mystic Lake and Sluiskin Mountains

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

39

Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon, Pierce County Road to the Mountain.

was the first trunk line to reach the Sound ; the Great Northern ; the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy; the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound; the Oregon &
Washington (Union Pacific), and the Canadian Pacific. A seventh, the North
Coast, will soon be added.
Arriving in Seattle or Tacoma, the traveler has his choice of quick and en
joyable routes to the Mountain. He may go by automobile, leaving either city
in the morning. After traveling one of the best and most interesting roads in
the country — the first and only one, in fact, to reach a glacier — he may take
luncheon at noon
six thousand feet
higher, in Para
dise Park, close
to the line of
eternal snow. Or
he may go by
the comfortable
trains of the Ta
coma Eastern
(Milwaukee sys
tem) to Ashford,
fifty-six miles
from Tacoma,
and then by au
tomobile stages
over a perfect
road to the Na-
Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage, in the Forest Reserve, where the former Yale professor
has for years studied the Flora of the Mountain. tlOnal Park Inn

40

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

One mile of Carbon Glacier, where it has cut its way through the Mountains.
Sluiskin Mountains on right. Mother Mountains on left.

at Longmire
Springs (altitude
2,730 f eet) .
Lunching there,
he may then go
on, afoot, by au
tomobile over the
new government
road, or on horse
back over a ro
mantic trail, to
Paradise. Either of these
ways of reaching;
the Mountain
will be a happy |
choice, for each
of them leads
through a coun
try of uncommon
charm. Each of'
them, too, will
carry the visitor'!
up from the
Sound to the
great and beau- on

tiful region
the southern slopes which includes the Nisqually canyon, Paradise valley, the
Tatoosh range, the Stevens canyon, and Indian Henry's Hunting Ground.

Camp on St. Elmo Pass, North side of the Wedge, between Winthrop Glacier and Interglacier. Elevation, 9,000 feet.
Winthrop Glacier and the fork of White River which it feeds are seen in distance below. The man is
Ma). E. S. Ingraham, a veteran explorer of the Mountain, after whom Ingraham Glacier is named.

Little Mashell Falls, near Eatonville

Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs and the National Park Inn, showing the tall, clear trunks of the giant Firs

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

43

Here let him stay a day or a month.
Every moment of the time will be crowded
with enjoyment. He may content himself
with snowballing his companions in mid
summer, and with looking down from Alta
Vista (elevation, 6,000 feet) on the big
Nisqually glacier in the canyon which it
has cut for itself, and up its steep slopes to
its neve field, on the summit. Or he may
explore this whole region at leisure, climb
ing hard mountain trails, obtaining magnifi
cent views, working up over the glaciers,
studying their crevasses, ice caves and flow.
He may even scale the peak, under the safe
leadership of experienced guides. He may
wander at will over the vast platform left
by the prehistoric explosion which trun
cated the great cone, and perhaps spend a
night of sensational novelty (and discom
fort) in a big steam cave, under the snow,
„ „....„ D inside a crater.
government Koad in the rorest Reserve. The south side has the advantage of offer
ing the wildest alpine sport in combination with a well-appointed hotel as a

Ingraham Glacier emptying into Cowlitz Glacier, over an 800- foot fall, one of the finest ice cascades on the Mountain.

44

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

«M

< ,

Copyright, 19U9. by Asahel Curtis
On the Summit, showing Columbia's Crest, the great Mound of Snow that has, most curiously,
formed on this wide wind-swept platform.
base of operations. Hence the majority of visitors to the Mountain know only
that side. Everybody should know it, too ; but should also know that it is by
no means the only side to see.
One may, of course, work around from the Nisqually canyon and Paradise.
east or west, to the other glaciers and "parks." It is quite practicable, if not
easy, to make the trip eastward from Camp of the Clouds in Paradise Park.
crossing Paradise, Stevens and Cowlitz glaciers, and thus to reach the huge
White glacier on the east side and Winthrop and Carbon glaciers on the north.
Every summer sees more and more visitors making this wonderful journey.

Leaving the National Park Inn at Longmire Springs (elevation, 2,730 feet) for the Summit.

View Northward from top of Pinnacle Peak, 7,200 feet elevation, to Paradise Valley, Nisqually Glacier and
Gibraltar Rock, eight miles away

..,'•§&

Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak, across Paradise, Stevens, Cowlitz and Frying Pan Glaciers.
These two views form virtually a panorama

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

49

On the Government Road a mile above Longmire's.

Another way to reach the great north side, and perhaps the most practic
able way, especially for parties which carry camp equipment, is by a Northern
Pacific train over the Carbonado branch to Fairfax. This is on Carbon river.
five miles from the northwest corner of the National Park. Thence the traveler
will go by horse or afoot, over a safe mountain trail, to Spray Park, the fascinat
ing region between Carbon and North Mowich glaciers. Standing here, on such
an eminence as Pay Peak or Eagle Cliff, he may have views of the Mountain
and its noblest ,
features that will
a thousand times
repay the labor
of attainment.
A visit to this
less known side
involves the ne
cessity of pack
ing an outfit. But
arrangements for
horses and pack
ers are easily
made, and each
year an mcreas- Glacier Table on Winthrop Glacier. This phenomenon is due to the melting of the
in O" number Of glacier, and the consequent lowering of its level save where sheltered by the
rock. Under the Sun's rays, these "tables" incline more and more
parties make to the South, until they finally slide off their pedestals.

50

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Snout of Nisqually Glacier, with Government Road and Bridge. The Ice Front here
is 500 to 600 feet high. Elevation of river flowing forth below
is 4,000 feet above sea level.

Spray Park
their headquar
ters. From there
they go south,
over the west
side glaciers, or
east, across the
Carbon and
through the
great White
river country.
They camp on
the north side
of the Sluiskin
mountains, i n
Moraine Park,
and there have
ready access to
Carbon and
Winthrop gla
ciers, with splendid views of the vast precipices that form the north face of the
Mountain. Thence they climb east and south over the Winthrop and White
glaciers. They visit the
beautiful Grand Park
and Summer Land, and
either make the ascent
to the summit from
"the Wedge," over the
long ice slope of the
White glacier, or con
tinue around to the Par
adise country and Long
mire Springs.
The west side has
been less visited than
any other, but there is
a trail from the North
Mowich to the Nis
qually, and from this
adventurous explorers
reach North and South
Mowich and Puyallup
glaciers. No one has
yet climbed the Moun
tain over those glaciers,

Washington Torrents, a series of falls seen from the new Government
Road to Paradise.

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

51

or from the
north side. A
view from any
of the trails will
explain why.
The great rock
spines are more
precipitous than
elsewhere, the
glaciers more i ;
broken ; and the
summit is front
ed on either side
by a huge para
pet of rock which hurls defiance at anything short of an airship. Doubtless, we
shall some day travel to Crater Peak by aeroplanes, but until these vehicles are
equipped with runners for landing and starting on the snow, we shall do best
to plan our ascents from the south or east side.
I have thus briefly pointed out the favorite routes followed in exploring the
National Park. The time is fast approaching when it will be a truly national

Coming around Frying- Pan Glacier.

Mt. Adams, seen from the Indian Henry Trail seems a replica of Rainier-Tacoma, as viewed from the west.
The distance is about forty miles.

"" KIT •

View of Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from a point on South Tahoma Glacier, looking across to Copper and Iron Mountains, with Mt. St. Helens seen above the clouds
(or beyond. Thi. famous "Pork" gets Us name from the fact that it was. years ago. the favorite haunt of a celebrated Indian hunter.

Southwest Side of the Mountain as seen from Indian Henry's, showing North and South Tahoma Glaciers meeting in foreground, and Kautz Glacier on extreme right.

54

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers. The main ice stream thus formed, seen in the foreground, feedsTahoma
Fork of the Nisqually river. The Northern part of North Tahoma Glacier, seen in the distance
beyond the wedge of rocks, feeds a tributary of the Puyallup
recreation ground, well known to Americans in every State. The coming of
new railways to Puget Sound and the development of new facilities for reach
ing the Mountain make this certain.*

*For details as to rates for transportation, accommodations and guides, see Note at end
of this chapter.

Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass, with Ruth Mountain (the Wedge) on right and Sour-Dough Mountains on left.

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

55

Portion of Paradise Park and the Tatoosh Range

Every step to
ward making the
Park more acces
sible is a public
benefit. Exper
ienced travelers
and mountain
climbers who
have visited it
unite in declaring
its scenery un-
equaled in the
United States and
unsurpassed any-
where in the
world. Until recent
years it was
known only by
the hardy few
who delight in
doing difficult things. But that day has passed. The value of the Park to the
whole American people is coming more and more to be appreciated, both by
them and by their official representatives. While Congress has dealt less
liberally with this than with the other great National Parks, what it has
appropriated has
been well spent
in building an in-
valuable road.
This is a continu
ation of the well-
made highway
maintained by
Pierce County
from Tacoma,
which passes
through a de
lightful country
of partly wooded
prairies and up
the heavily for
ested slopes to
the edge of the
Forest Reserve.
These roads
Eastern end of the Tatoosh Range. have put it with-

56

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

in the power of
aut omobilists
from all parts of
the Coast to reach
the grandest of
American moun
tains and the
largest glaciers in
the United States
south of Alaska.
They connect, at
Tacoma, with ex
cellent roads
from Seattle and
other cities on
the Sound, as
well as from
Portland and
points farther
south. The
travel from these
cities has already
justified the con
struction of the
roads, and is in
creasing every
year. Even from
California many
automobile par
ties visit the
Mountain. Persons who
come by rail may, as I have said, choose between the train service of the Tacoma
Eastern Railway
and a trip by au
tomobile. For
those who do not
come in their own
cars, a line of
automobile stages
from Tacoma has
been established,
giving regular
and comfortable
transportation

Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier

BHH

-" ~~ *i*£

Tug of War between teams picked from the feminine contingent of the Mountaineers.

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

59

Reese's Camp, which his patrons have poetically called "Camp of the Clouds." A tent hotel on a ridge in Paradise Park,
overlooking Nisqually Glacier. This is the usual starting point of parties for the
Summit over the South-side route, via Gibraltar.

daily to Longmire Springs, and offering one of the most enjoyable scenic trips
to be had anywhere.
The most important movement toward making the Mountain better known
and more accessible has just been inaugurated, with good promise of suc
cess. It is proposed to

extend the new govern
ment road, now reaching
Paradise Park, to the
other ' ' parks ' ' on all sides
of the peak. The under
taking is of such import
ance that it will doubtless
receive prompt approval
and proper support from
Congress. Congressional action for
the opening of this great
alpine area to public use
began in 1899. A tract
eighteen miles square, to
be known as "Ranier

Climbing Paradise Glacier.

National Park," * was
withdrawn from the

* For some years, Congress and the Interior Department spelled it "Ranier"! A well-
known Congressman from Seattle put them straight, and it has since been offlcially "Rainier
National Park."

Looking down on Nisqually Glacier from top of Gibraltar Rock, with Storm Clouds veiling the Mountain.

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

Gl

2,146,600 acres of the
Forest Reserve, pre
viously created. The
area thus set apart
for the enjoyment of
the people was al
ready known to en
thusiasts and explor
ers as one of the
world 's great won
derlands. In 1861
James Longmire, a
prospector, had built
a trail from Yelm
over Mashell moun
tain and up the Nis
qually river to Bear
Prairie. This he ex
tended in 1884 to the
spot now known as
Longmire Springs,
and thence up the
Nisqually and Para
dise rivers to the re
gion now called Para
dise Park. Part of
this trail was widen
ed later into a wagon
road, used for many
years by persons traveling to the Paradise country, or seeking health at the
remarkable mineral springs on the tract which the Longmires acquired from
the government before the establishment of the Forest Reserve.

Sluiskin Falls, 150 Feet, just below Paradise Glacier

-

Looking across Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp, on the East side of Carbon Glacier, to Steamboat Prow
(the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass. Elevation of Camera, about 8,500 feet.

62

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

The Longmire road, rough as it
was, long remained the best route to
the Mountain, but in 1903 the late
Francis W. Cushman, representative
from this State, persuaded Congress
to authorize the survey and construc
tion of a better one. Work was not
begun, however, until 1906. The
yearly appropriations have been
small, and total only $183,000 to the
end of 1909.
The road, as now open to Paradise
valley, is a monument to the en
gineering skill of Mr. Eugene Rick-
secker, United States Assistant Engi
neer, in local charge of the work. Over
its even floor you go from the west
boundary of the Forest Reserve up
the north bank of the Nisqually river,
as far as the foot of its glacier.
Crossing on the bridge here, you
climb up and up, around the face of
a bluff known as Gap Point, where a
step over the retaining wall would
mean a sheer drop of a thousand feet
into the river below. Thus you wind
over to the Paradise river and up
through its canyou to the broad and
beautiful valley of the same name
above, until you reach Camp of the
Clouds and its picturesque tent hotel.
The road has brought you a zig-zag
journey of twenty-four miles to cover
an air-line distance of twelve and a
gain in elevation of 3,800 feet. It is
probably unique in its grades. It has
no descents. Almost everywhere it
is a gentle climb. Below Longmire
Springs the maximum grade is 2.5
per cent., and the average, 1.6 per cent. Beyond, the grade is steeper, but
nowhere more than 4 per cent.
The alignment and grades originally planned have been followed, but only
one stretch, a mile and a quarter, has yet been widened to the standard width
of eighteen feet. Lacking money for a broader road, the engineers built the
rest of it twelve feet wide. They wisely believed that early opening of the

Fairy Falls in Goat Lick Basin. This series of waterfalls
has. a drop of several hundred feet.

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

63

route for vehicles to
Paradise, even though
the road be less than
standard width, would
serve the public by
making the Park bet
ter known, and thus
arouse interest in mak
ing it still more acces
sible. It will require
about $60,000 to com
plete the road to stand
ard width, and make
it thoroughly secure.
The next step in
opening the National
Park to public use
should be the carrying
out of Mr. Rick-
seeker's fine plan for a
road around the Moun
tain. His new map of
the Park, printed at
the end of this volume,
shows the route pro
posed. Leaving the
present road near
Christine Falls, below
the Nisqually glacier,
he would double back
over the hills to Indian
Henry's Hunting
Ground, thence drop
ping into the canyon of Tahoma Fork, climbing up to St. Andrew's Park, and
so working round to the Mowich glaciers, Spray Falls and the great "parks"
of the north side. The snout of each glacier would be reached in turn, and
the high pleateaus which the glaciers have left would be visited.
Crossing Moraine Park and Winthrop glacier's old bed, the road would
ascend to Grand Park and the Sour - Dough country — a region unsurpassed
' anywhere on the Mountain for the breadth and grandeur of its views. More
descents, climbs and detours would bring it to the foot of White glacier, and
thence through Summer Land and Cowlitz Park, and westward to a junction
with the existing road in Paradise Park. Its elevation would range between
four and seven thousand feet above the sea. The route, as indicated on the
map, suggests very plainly the engineering feats involved in hanging roads on
these steep and deeply-carved slopes.

Copyright, 1909, by S. C. Smith
Checkerboard Crevasses on lower Cowlitz Glacier, with Basalt Cliffs and Cowlitz
Park above, and Little Tahoma in distance.

Paradise Valley and Tatoosh Mountains, from slope below Paradise Glacier. The high peak left of th.

e center is Pinnacle Peak.

Stevens Canyon in October,

vith Mt. Adams over Eastern end of Tatoosh Range on right, and Cascades on left.
are "Goat Rocks." Goat Lick Basin is in lower left corner.

The snow peaks seen on the Cascade Sky-line

66

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

ijpf

Mountain Climbers on St. Elmo Pass, North side of the Wedge. View taken
from upper side of the Pass. Elevation, 9,000 feet.

Between eighty and
a hundred miles of
construction work
would be required,
costing approximate
ly $10,000 a mile.
Including the comple
tion of the present
road to standard
width, Congress will
thus have to provide
a round million if it
wishes to develop the
full value of this vast
wonderland. I shall
not use any of my
little space in trying
to prove that this
expenditure is worth
while. Every Con
gressman who makes
the trip over the new
road already built
will know it, and
know why. Such a
road would justify
the Congress which
authorizes it, immor
talize the engineers
who build it, and
honor the nation that
owns it.

NOTE.
Rates, Accommodations, Guides, Etc.— The fare via the Taeoma Eastern Railway
from Tacoma to the Mountain is $6 for the round trip, including the automobile-stage
ride over the new government road from Ashford to Longmire's and return. Tickets
are good for the season. Parties of ten or more, traveling on one ticket, $5 per capita.
A week-end ticket, Saturday to Monday, is sold at $5.
Automobile stages seating ten passengers leave the office of the De Lape Tours
Company, 110 South Ninth street, Tacoma, for the Mountain every morning during the
summer at 7:30, 8 and 8:30 o'clock, reaching Longmire's in 5% hours. Distance, 70
miles. Returning, they leave Longmire's at 3:30, making the trip down in 4% hours.
The route is over the new Pierce County road above the Nisqually canyon to Ashford
and over the government road through the National Park. Fare for the round trip, $7.
Reservations should be made in advance.
Automobiles are permitted to enter or leave the National Park only between the
hours of 8 a. m. and 6 p. m. An automobile permit must be purchased at the keeper's
lodge, at the western boundary of the Park. This costs $5, and is good for the season,

THE NATIONAL PARK AND HOW TO REACH IT

67

provided that its owner and his machine observe the rules. The speed limit is twelve
miles per hour, with six miles on curves. Public safety demands that this rule be
strictly enforced — ¦ and it is. Persons violating it have the unpleasant experience of
losing their permits and finding their cars chained up.
The National Park Inn, Longmire Springs, provides excellent rooms and a good
table. In addition to the rooms in the Inn, a large number of well-furnished and com
fortable tents are provided near by. The rates range from $2.50 to $3.75 a day,
American plan.
At the old Longmire hotel, the rates are $2 to $2.50 for room and board.
The mineral springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended for their
medicinal virtues. Within an area of several acres, there are a score of these springs,
varying from the normal temperature of a mountain stream almost to blood heat. Well-
appointed bath houses are maintained. Fee, including attendance, $1.
The cost of getting from Longmire Springs to Paradise Park or Indian Henry's is
moderate. Many prefer to make these trips on foot. Daily parties, with experienced
guides, are made up several times a day for the trails to each of these great "parks."
Sure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1.50 for the round trip.
A line of stages carries passengers from Longmire's over the government road to
Nisqually glacier, Narada Falls and Camp of the Clouds, in Paradise Park. The charge
for the trip to Narada and return is $2; to Paradise Park and return, $3.
At Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, and at the similar tent hotel in Indian Henry's,
the charge for meals, with a tent for sleeping, is $2.50 per day.
Guides may be had at the National Park Inn or at either of the "camps" for many
interesting trips over the mountain trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies
with the number in a party.
For those who wish to make the ascent over the Gibraltar trail, trustworthy guides
may be engaged at the National Park Inn or at Reese's Camp. Arrangements should
be made several days in advance. The cost of such a trip depends upon the number in
a party. The guides make an initial charge of $25 for the first member of the party,
and $5 each for the others. They will furnish alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes
of mountain climbers at a reasonable charge. Each person should carry with him a
blanket or extra coat and a small amount of food, for use in the event of being on the
summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required if the night is to be spent at
Camp Muir.
Ascents from other points than Reese's are usually made in special parties, under
the guidance of persons familiar with the routes. All persons are warned not to attempt
an ascent unless accompanied by experienced guides. Lives have been lost through
neglect of this precaution.
For persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate from Tacoma to
Fairfax is $1.25; and from Seattle to Fairfax, with change of cars at Puyallup, $1.75.
Guides and horses may be engaged at Fairfax for the Spray Park trail.

Passing a big Crevasse on Interglacier. Sour-Dough Mountains on the right, with Grand Park beyond.
Ruth Mountain (the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass on left, with Glacier Basin in depression.

The Mountaineers on Winthrop Glacier.

III.
THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN
I asked myself, How was this colossal work performed? Who chiseled these mighty
and picturesque masses out of a mere protuberance of earth? And the answer was at
hand. Ever young, ever mighty, with the vigor of a thousand worlds still within him,
the real sculptor was even then climbing up the eastern sky. It was he who planted
the glaciers on the mountain slopes, thus giving gravity a plough to open out the
valleys; and it is he who, acting through the ages, will finally lay low these mighty
monuments, * * * so that the people of an older earth may see mould spread and
corn wave over the hidden rocks which at this moment bear the weight of the Jungfrau.
— John Tyndall: "Hours of Exercise in the Alps."
The life of a glacier is one eternal grind. — John Muir.
OUR stately Mountain, in its youth, was as comely and symmetrical a cone
as ever graced the galaxy of volcanic peaks. To-day, while still young
as compared with the obelisk crags of the Alps, it has already taken
on the venerable and deeply-scarred physiognomy of a veteran. It is no longer
merely an overgrown boy among the hills, but, cut and torn by the ice of cen
turies, it is fast assuming the dignity and interest of a patriarch of the mountains.

Crossing Carbon Glacier. On the ice slopes, it is customary to divide a large party into companies, with an experienced
alpinist at the head of each. The picture shows the Mountaineers marching in tens.
Note the Medial Moraines on the Glacier.

Nisqually Glacier, with its sources in the Snow Field of the Summit. On the right is Gibraltar Rock and on the extreme left
Kautz Glacier flows down from Peak Success. Note the Medial Moraines, resulting from junction of Ice Streams above.
These apparently small lines of dirt are often great ridges of rocks, cut from the cliffs. The picture also illustrates how the
marginal crevasses of a glacier point down stream from the center, though the center flows faster than the sides.

Looking North from Cowlitz Chimneys over the Cowlitz Glacier to Gibraltar Rock, with Cathedral Rocks on its right, and the Cowlitz Cleaver,
Beyond, upon the summit. Peak Success is seen on the left, with Crater Peak and rim of the Crater at top of sky-line. The
foreground, cross-seamed with crevasses, tells a graphic story of long travel by the ice stream

left.

THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN

71

To some, no
doubt, the
smooth, youthful
contours of an ac
tive volcano seem
more beautiful
than the rugged
grandeur of the
Weisshorn. The
perfect cone of
Mt. St. Helens,
until recently in
eruption, pleases
them more than
the broad dome
of Mt. Adams.
rounded by a
prehistoric ex
plosion. But not
so with all. To
those who love
nature and the
story written
upon its face,
mountains have
character as
truly as men, and they show it in their features as clearly.
Nowhere is this better exemplified than in the monarch of the Cascades.
No longer the huge conical pimple which a volcano erected on the earth's
crust, it bears on its face the history of its own explosion, which scattered its
top far over the landscape, and of its losing battle with the sun, which, em
ploying the heaviest of all tools, is steadily destroying it. It has already lost
a tenth of its height and a third of its bulk. The ice is cutting deeper and
deeper into its sides. Upon three of them, it has excavated great amphitheaters
which it is ceaselessly driving back toward the heart of the peak. As if to
compensate for these losses of size and shapeliness, the Mountain has become
the most interesting monument and presents the most important phenomena
of glacial action to be seen anywhere in the United States.
In dimensions alone, however, it is still one of the world's great peaks.
The Rainier National Park, eighteen miles square, — as large as many counties
in the East — has an elevation along its western and lowest boundary averaging
four thousand feet above sea level. Assuming a diameter of only twenty miles,
the area covered by the peak exceeds three hundred square miles. Of its vast
surface upwards of 32,500 acres, or about fifty-one square miles, are covered
by glaciers or the fields of perpetual snow which feed them. A straight line

Measuring the Ice Flow in the Nisqually Glacier. In 1905 Prof. J. N. Le Conte of
Berkeley, Cal., established the fact that this Glacier has an average flow, in sum
mer, of 16.2 inches a day. The movement is greater in the center than on the sides,
and greater on the convex side of a curve than on the concave side. It thus is a true
river, though a slow one. The measurements are taken by running a line from one
lateral moraine to the other with a surveying instrument, setting stakes at short
intervals, and ascertaining the advance they make from day to day.

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

These views show the larger of the two comparatively modern and small craters on the broad platform left by the
and 1.450 feet from East to West. The other, much smaller, adjoins it so closely that their rims touch.
miles from North Peak (Liberty Cap) and South Peak (Peak Success). At the
Crest." The volcano having long been inactive, the craters are filled
drawn through from the end of North Tahoma glacier, on the west side, to the
end of White glacier, on the east, would be thirteen miles long. The circum
ference of the crest, on the 10.000 foot contour, is nearly seven miles. The
twelve primary glaciers vary
in length from three to eight
miles, and from half a mile
to three miles in width.
There are as many "inter-
glaciers," or smaller ice
streams which gather their
snow supply, not from the
neve fields of the summit, but
below the wedges of rock
which the greater glaciers
have left standing upon the
upper slopes.
The geological story may
be told in a few untechnical
words. As those folds in the
earth which parallel the
Coast were slowly formed by
the lateral pressure, of sea
upon land, fractures occurred
in the incline thus created.
Through the fissures that
resulted the subterranean
fires thrust molten rock which
formed volcanic craters. The
mOSt active Craters built Up, Climbing the Cowlitz Cleaver to Gibraltar. This Spine is one of the
by eruptions Of lava and great ridges left by the glaciers. On the other side of it is a drop
of several thousand feet to Nisqually Glacier.

THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN

73

explosion which decapitated the Peak. Prof. Flett measured this Crater, and found it 1,600 feet from North to South,
Together they form an eminence of 1,000 feet on top of the Mountain, at a distance of more than two
junction of their rims is the great snow hill (on right of view) called "Columbia's
with snow, but steam and gases escape in places along their rims.
ashes, a great series of cones now seen on both sides of the Cordillera, that
huge mountain system which borders the Pacific from Behring sea to the
Straits of Magellan. Tacoma-Rainier is one of the more important units in this
army of volcanic giants.
Unlike some of its companions, however, it owes its bulk less to lava flows
than to the explosive eruptions which threw forth bombs and scoriae. It is
a mass of agglomerates, with only occasional strata of solid volcanic rock.
This becomes evident to one who inspects the exposed sides of any of the
canyons, or of the great cliffs, Gibraltar Rock, Little Tahoma or Russell Peak.
It is made clear even in such a picture as that on page 77 of this book.

Lunching in a Crevasse, 13,000 feet above the sea. Even Little Tahoma, on the left, is far below.

74

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

This looseness of structure
accounts for the rapidity with
which the glaciers are cutting
down the peak. All of them
carry an extraordinary amount
of debris, to be deposited in
lateral or terminal moraines,
or dropped in streams which
they feed. They are rivers of
rock as well as of ice.
That the glaciers of this and
every other mountain in the
northern hemisphere are rapid
ly receding, and that they are
now mere pygmies compared
with their former selves, is
well known. What their de-

L

Ice-bound lake in Cowlitz Park, with top of
Little Tahoma in distance.
structive power must have
been when their volume was
many times greater may be
judged from the moraines
along their former channels.
Some of these ridges are hun
dreds of feet in height. As
you go to the Mountain from
Tacoma, either by the Tacoma
Eastern railway or the Nis
qually canyon road, you find
them everywhere above the
prairies. Many of them are
covered with forests that must
be centuries old.
Even now, diminished as

Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier, with waterfall dropping from
Cowlitz Park, over Basaltic Cliffs.

Spray Park, from Fay Peak. showinc the beautiful region between the Carbon an

COPYRIGHT 1907, BY W. P. ROMANS
d North Mowich Glaciers

THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN

77

they are, the glaciers
are fast transporting
the Mountain toward
the sea. Wherever a
glacier skirts a cliff,
it is cutting into its
side, as it cuts into
its own bed below.
From the overhang
ing rocks, too, debris
falls upon the ice
stream. Thus the
marginal moraines
begin to form, on the
ice, far up the side of
the peak. As the gla
cier advances, driven
by its own weight and
the resistless mass of
snow above, it is
often joined by an
other glacier, bring
ing its own marginal
moraines. Where the
two meet, a medial
moraine results. *
Some medialmoraines
are many feet high.
Trees are found
growing on them. In
Switzerland houses
are built upon them.
Often the debris
which they transport,
as the ice carries
them forward, in
cludes rocks as big
as a ship.
A glacier's flow
varies from a hundred to a thousand feet or more a year, depending upon its
volume, its width, and the slope of its bed. As the decades pass,
its level is greatly lowered by the melting of the ice. More and more, earth
and rocks accumulate upon the surface, as it travels onward, and are scattered
over it by the rains and melting snow. At last, in its old age, when far down

Mazamas rounding Gibraltar — a reminiscence of the ascent iby the famous Portland
Club in 1905. The precipice rises more than 1000 feet.above the trail.

* See illustrations on pp. 68 and 69.

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

its canyon, the glacier is completely hidden, save where crevasses reveal the
ice. Only at its snout, where it breaks off, as a rule, in a high wall of ice, do
we realize how huge a volume and weight it must have, far above toward its
.sources, or why so many of the crevasses on the upper ice fields seem almost
bottomless. These hints of the almost inconceivable" mass of a glacier, with its millions
of millions of tons, suggest how much of the Mountain has already been
whittled and planed away. But here we may do better 1han speculate. The
original surface of the peak is clearly indicated by the tops of the great rocks
which have survived the glacial sculpturing. They are from one to two
thousand feet high. The best known are Gibraltar and the ridges that stretch
downward from it, Cowlitz Cleaver and Cathedral Rocks, making a great
inverted V. East-
ward of this, another
V, with its apex to
ward the summit, is
called Little Tahoma ;
and beyond, still an
other. Steamboat
Prow, forming the
tip of "The Wedge."
Spines of rock like
these are found on all
sides of the peak.
They help us to esti
mate its greater cir
cumference and bulk.
before the glaciers
had chiseled so deep
ly into it.
But they do even
more Wherever lava
flows occurred in the
building of the Moun
tain, strata formed ;
and such stratifica
tion is clearly seen at
wide intervals on the
s i d c s of the great
nicks just mentioned.
I.'s incline, of course,
is that of the former
surface. The strata
point upward — not
i„ J j.1 .. Climbing the "Chute'' on west side of Gibraltar. This is so steep that the guides
LOWdlU tlie SUmmit cut steps in the ice.

THE STORY OP THE MOUNTAIN

79

which we see, but
far above it. For
this reason the
geologists w h o
have examined
the ridges most
closely are agreed
that the peak has
lost nearly two
thousand feet of
its height. It
blew its own
head off!
Such explosive
eruptions are
among the worst
vices of volcan
oes. Every vis
itor to Naples re
in embers how
plainly the land
scape north of
Vesuvius tells of
a prehistoric de
capitation, which
left only a low,
broad platform,
on the south rim
of which the little
Vesuvius that
many of us have
climbed was
formed by later
eruptions. Simi
larly, here at
home, Mt. Adams and Mt. Baker are truncated cones, while, on the other hand,
St. Helens and Hood are still symmetrical.
Like Vesuvius, too, Rainier-Tacoma has built upon the plateau left when
it lost its' head. Peak Success, overlooking Indian Henryr's, and Liberty Cap,
the northern elevation, seen from Seattle and Tacoma, are nearly three miles
apart on the west side of the broad summit. These are parts of the rim of
the old crater. East' of the line uniting them, and about two miles from each,
the volcano built up an elevation now known as Crater Peak, comprising two
small adjacent craters. These burnt-out craters are now filled with snow, and
where the rims touch, a big snow-hill rises — the strange creature of eddving

Looking from top of Gibraltar over the Snow-fields to the Summit. Elevation of camera,
12,300 feet. In distance is seen the rim of the Crater. The route to this is a steady
climb, with 2,000 feet of ascent in one mile of distance. Many detours have to be
made to avoid crevasses. Note the big crevasse stretching away on right — a
"Bergschrund," as the Swiss call a break where one side falls far below the other.
The stratification on its side shows in each layer a year's snow, packed into ice.

, u ¦ « , .m„„„, of Morainal Debris carried down by this Glacier. Little Tahoma in middle distanc
Looking up White Cade, ^J^^ZZ Z^^l^ZTotnZJ or, left. Elevation of camera, about 4.000 fee,

THE STORY OP THE MOUNTAIN

81

North Peak, or "Liberty Cap," so called from its resemblance to the Bonnet Rouge of the French Revolutionists.
Elevation, about 14,000 feet. View taken from the side of Crater Peak, the easternmost and highest
of the three peaks which crown the Summit. Distance, more than two miles.

winds that sweep up through the great flume cut by volcanic explosion and
glacial action in the west side of the peak. *
This mound of snow is the present actual top. Believing it the highest
point in the United States south of Alaska, the alpinists some years ago named
it "Columbia's Crest." The name has stuck, in spite of the fact that the
government geographers have adopted, for the Dictionary of Altitudes, the
height found by Prof. McAdie, 14,363 feet, thus ranking the Mountain second
to Mt. Whitney, in California (14,522 feet).
There are those, however, who refuse to be disabused of their belief that
the height of 14,529 feet, found by many scientific investigators as a result of
careful barometric observations, is the true altitude. It is probable that
scientists will not be content until the question shall have been settled by a
competent and impartial commission. For the present, however, I give the
official figures. A few feet of height signify nothing. No California peak,
hidden away behind the Sierra, can vie in majesty with the Mountain
that rises in stately grandeur from the shores of Puget Sound.
The wide area which the Mountain thrusts up into the sky is a highly
efficient condenser of moisture. Near to the Pacific as it is, it collects several
hundred feet of snow each year from the warm Chinooks, and on all sides this
mass presses down, to feed the primary glaciers of the upper slopes. Starting
from Paradise, these in order are : Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers ; White

* See illustration on page 28, which shows not only the deep cleft on the west side, but
also the three peaks on the summit.

82

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

glacier, largest of all ; Winthrop glacier, named in honor of Theodore Winthrop,
in whose delightful romance of travel, "The Canoe and the Saddle," the ancient
Indian name "Tacoma" was first printed; Carbon, North and South Mowich,
Puyallup, North and South Tahoma, Kautz and Nisqually glaciers.
The most important secondary glaciers, or "inter glaciers," rising below
the rock wedges, are Interglacier, Paradise, Stevens, Frying-Pan and Van
Trump. There has been considerable uncertainty as to some of these names, chiefly
due to a recent government map. For instance, in that publication, White
glacier, most properly so called because it feeds the White river, was named
Emmons glacier, after S. F. Emmons, a geologist who made one of the first
explorations of the peak. North and South Mowich glaciers, feeding streams
similarly named, were miscalled Willis and Edmunds glaciers, after Bailey
Willis, geologist, and George F. Edmunds, late United States senator, who
visited the Mountain many years ago. South Tahoma glacier was renamed
Wilson glacier, for A. D. Wilson, Emmons's companion in exploration. Finally,
the name of General Hazard Stevens, who made the first ascent of the peak in
1870, was misplaced, being given to the west branch of the Nisqually, whereas
Stevens glacier is the well-defined interglacier adjoining the Paradise on
the east.
Such errors in a government document are the more inexcusable because
their author ignored names adopted in the original publications of the Geolog
ical Survey. The new map prepared by Mr. Ricksecker, and printed herewith,
returns to the older and better-usage. Unless good reason can be shown for
departing from it. his careful compilation should be accepted as authoritative.

The Mountaineers crossing a precipitous slope on White Glacier. Little Tahoma in distanc

THE STORY OP THE MOUNTAIN

S3

Hydro-electric plant at Electron, on the Puyallup river, producing 28,000 h. p.
A word about the industrial value of the Mountain may not be without
interest in this day of electricity. It is well known that, within a radius of
sixty miles of the head of Puget Sound, more water descends from high levels
to the sea than in any other similar area in the United States. The greater
part of this is collected on the largest peak. Hydraulic engineers have esti
mated, on investigation, an average annual precipitation, for the summit and
upper slopes, of at least 180 inches, or four, times the rainfall in Tacoma or
Seattle. The melting snows feed the White, Puyallup and Nisqually rivers,
large streams flowing into the Sound, and the Cowlitz, an important tributary
of the Columbia. The minimum flow of these streams is computed at more
than 1200 second feet, while their average flow is nearly twice that total.
The utilization of this large water supply on the steep mountain slopes
began in 1904 with the erection of the Electron plant of the Puget Sound
Power Company. For this the water is diverted from the Puyallup river ten
miles from the end of its glacier, and 1750 feet above sea level, and carried
ten miles more in an open flume to a reservoir, from which four steel penstocks,
each four feet in diameter, carry it to the power house 900 feet below. The
plant generates 28,000 h. p.. which is conveyed to Tacoma, twenty-five miles
distant, at a pressure of 60,000 volts, and there is distributed for the operation
of street railways, lights and factories in that city and Seattle.
A more important development is in progress on the larger White river
near Buckley, where the Pacific Coast Power Company is diverting the water
by a dam and eight-mile canal to Lake Tapps, elevation 540 feet above tide.
From this great reservoir it will be taken through a tunnel and pipe line to
the generating plant at Deiringer, elevation 65 feet. The 100,000 h. p. produced
here will be carried fifteen miles to Tacoma, for sale to manufacturers in the
Puget Sound cities.
Both these plants are enterprises of Stone & Webster, of Boston. A com-

84

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

petitive plant is now under
construction by the city of
Tacoma, utilizing the third
of the rivers emptying into
the Sound. The Nisqually
is dammed above its re
markable canyon, at an ele
vation of 970 feet, where its
minimum flow is 300 second
feet. The water will be car
ried through a 10,000-foot
tunnel and over a bridge to
a reservoir at La Grande,
from which the penstocks

PIP

Building Tacoma's
Electric Power
Plant on the Nis
qually Canyon.
Upper view shows
site of retention
dam, above tunnel;

middle view, end of
tunnel, where pipe
line will cross the
canyon on a bridge;
lower view, site of
the generating
plant.

will carry it down the side
of the canyon to the 40,000
h. p. generating plant on
the river below. The city
expects to be able to pro
duce power for its own use,
with a considerable margin
for sale, at a cost at least as
low as can be attained any
where in the United States.
Its success will be largely
due to the admirable de
signs and beginning of con
struction made under Mr.

THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN

87

C. Kelsey,
chief en-

Frankformer gineer. The rocks of
which the Moun
tain is composed
are mainly ande-
sites of different
classes and basalt.
But the peak rests
upon a platform of
granite, into which
the glaciers have
cut in their prog
ress. Several of the
canyons disclose
fine outcroppings
of the older and
harder rock. These
are especially
clear on the side of
the Nisqually, just
below the present
end of its glacier,
as well as on the
Carbon and in Mo
raine Park, which
was until recently
the bed of a glacier

Admiral Peter Rainier, of the British Navy, inwhose honor Captain George Vancouver,
in 1792, named the great peak"Mt. Rainier."
This accounts for the fact that the river beds are full
of granite bowld
ers, which are
grinding the soft
er volcanic shin
gle into soil. Thus
the glaciers are
not only fast de
forming the peak.
They are "sow
ing the seeds of
continents to
be."

V"

Echo Rock, on west branch of Carbon Glacier.

View looking West from Summer Land, one of the great "Parks" between the Glaciers. Far above is Little Tahoma, with Frying-Pan Glacier below it. Gibraltar Rock is seen
in the depression. Beyond are Crater Peak and North Peak, on the summit, with the vast snow-field supplying White and Winthrop
Glaciers below, and Steamboat Prow and Mt. Ruth on the lower sky-line.

View North from Mt. Ruth (part of the Wedge), with Interglacier in foreground, the Snipe Lake country below, Sour Dough Mountains on right, Grand Park in middle
distance, and Mt. Baker and the summits of the Selkirks on the horizon. "^Elevation of camera, about 8,500 feet.

Copyright, 1909, by Asahel Curtis
View looking across Moraine Park and Carbon Glacier to Mother Mountains.

IV.
THE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES
By PROP. J. B. FLETT *
Of all the fire-mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast,
Mount Rainier is the noblest in form. Its massive white dome rises out of its forests,
like a world by itself. Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty
miles in circuit and nearly two miles wide, so closely planted and luxuriant that it seems
as if Nature, glad to make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep,
were economizing the precious ground, and trying to see how many of her darlings
she can get together in one mountain wreath — daisies, anemones, columbines,
erythroniums, larkspurs, etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the
bright corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest
subalpine garden I ever found, a perfect floral elysium. — John Muir: "Our National
Parks."

NO ONE can visit the Mountain with
out being impressed by its wild
flowers. These are the more noticeable
because of their high color — a common
characteristic of flowers in alpine regions.
As we visit the Mountain at a season when
the spring flowers of the lowlands have gone
to seed, we find there another spring season
with flowers in still greater number and more
varied in color.
The base of the Mountain up to an altitude
of about 4,000 feet is covered by a somber
* Prof. Flett knows the Mountain well. He has
spent many summers in its "parks," has climbed to
its summit four times, has visited all its glaciers, and
has made a remarkable collection of its flowers. In
addition to the chapter on the botany of the Natural
Park, this book is indebted to him for several of its
most valuable illustrations.

Anemones

THE FLORA OP THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES

91

forest of ever
greens composed of
the white and black
pines; Douglas,
lovely and noble
firs; the white
cedar ; spruce, and
hemlock. There are
found also several
deciduous trees —
large-leafed maple,
white alder, cotton-
wood, quaking as-
pen, vine and
smooth le af ed
maples, and several
species of willows.
Thus the silva of
the lower slopes is
highly varied. The
forest is often inter-
rupt e d by the
glacial canyons, and,
at intervals, by fire-
swept areas.
The alpine mea
dows begin to ap
pear at an altitude
of about 5,000 feet.
The real alpine trees, with their trim, straight trunks and drooping branches,
are in strange contrast to their relatives of the lower altitude. The principal
trees of the meadow area are the alpine fir, the alpine hemlock, and the Alaska
cedar. These constitute the greater part of the silva of Paradise Valley. There
are a few trees of the lovely fir in the lower part of the valley, and a few white-
barked pines overlooking the glaciers at timber line.
The trees of the park zone differ greatly on different slopes. On the
northeast and east, the white-barked pine and the alpine spruce form no
small part of the tree groups. The white-barked pine branches out like the
scrub oak on the prairie. It is never seen at a low altitude. The alpine spruce
bears numerous cones all over the tree, and has sharp leaves, though not so
sharp as its relative, the tideland spruce.
Not only is there a difference in the trees on the different slopes of the
Mountain, but there is a marked difference in the herbaceous plants as well.
Hesperogenia Strictlandi is a small, yellow plant of the celery family. This
is very abundant, both in Spray Park and also in the country east of the

A 14-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake

Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park, with view of the Southwest Slope and Peak Success, showing Purple Asters, with bunches
of Hellebore in center of Flower Field

THE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES

93

Carbon Glacier, but rare on the south side.
Gilia Nuttallii, a large, phlox-like plant, is
abundant only in the Indian Henry region.
Two anemones, one buttercup, three willows
and one senecio seem to be confined to the
White River country. The moss campion
has beeii found only on Mowich.
The most noticeable and abundant flower
on all slopes is the avalanche lily (Erythron-
ium montanum) . This plant comes up through
several inches of the old snow crust, and
forms beautiful beds of pure white flowers,
to the exclusion of nearly all other plants.
There are often from seven to nine blossoms
on a stem. This has other popular names,
such as deertongue and addertongue. There
is also a yellow species, growing with the
other, but less abundant. It seldom has more
than one or two flowers on a stem. The yellow
alpine buttercup generally grows with the erythroniums. It also tries to rush

An eminent scientist practices the simple life
near the Timber Line

Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park, where "Mountain Heliotrope," more properly Valerian, and other
flowers abound near the snow line

94
the season by coming up through
the snow. The western anemone
is a little more deliberate, but is
found quite near the snow. It may
be known by its lavender, or purple
flowers; and later by its large
plume-like heads, which arc no
less admired than the flowers them
selves. The plants just mentioned are
the harbingers of spring. Follow
ing them in rapid succession are
many plants of various hues. The
mountain dock, mountain dande
lion, and potentilla seldom fail to

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies. In the
struggle for existence at the Timber Line,
Flowers prosper, but Trees fight for
life against storm and snow.

Mountain Asters.
appear later. The asters, often wrongly
called daisies, are represented by several spe
cies, some of which blossom early, and are
at their best along with the spring flowers.
The great majority of the composite family
bloom later, and thus prolong the gorgeous
array. The lupines add much to the beauty
of this meadow region, both at a low altitude,
and also in the region above timber line.
Their bright purple flowers, in long racemes,
with palmate leaves, are very conspicuous on
the grassy slopes. Between timber line and
8,500 feet, Lyall's lupine grows in dense silk
mats, with dark purple flowers — -the most
beautiful plant in that zone.
Four different kinds of heather are found
on the Mountain. The red heather is the
largest and the most abundant. It grows at
a lower altitude than the others, and is some
times, erroneously, called Scotch heather.

Looking down

from Ptarmigan Ridge into the Canyon of the North Mowich Glacier and up to the cloud-wreathed Peak

THE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES

97

Studying the Phlox.

There are two kinds of white heather. One forms a prominent part of the
flora, often growing with the red. The other is less conspicuous and grows
about timber line. The yellow heather also grows at the same altitude, and
is larger and more common than the
others. It often forms beautiful areas
where other vegetation is rare. The
white rhododendron is a beautiful shrub
of the lower meadows. Its creamy white
blossoms remind one of the cultivated
azalea. There are several huckleberries,
some with large bushes growing in the
lower forest area, others small and
adapted to the grassy meadows.
The figwort family has many and curi
ous representatives. The rose purple
monkey-flower is very common and con
spicuous in the lower meadows, along the
streams. It is nearly always accompan
ied by the yellow fireweed. Higher up,
large meadow areas are arrayed in bright
yellow by the alpine monkey-flower.
Above timber line, two pentstemons, with
matted leaves and short stems with bril
liant purple and red flowers, cover large

Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily
(Xerophyllum tenax)

Mosses and Ferns, in the Forest Reserve, on way to Longmire Springs.

THE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES

99

rocky patches, mixed here
and there with lavender beds
of the alpine phlox ; while the
amber rays of the golden
aster, scattered through these
variegated beds, lend their
charm to the rocky ridges.
The Indian paint-brush, the
speedwell, the elephant's
trunk, and the pigeon bills
are all well-known members
of the large figwort family
which does much to embel
lish the Mountain meadows.
The valerian, often wrongly
called "mountain helio
trope," is very common on
the grassy slopes. Its odor
can often be detected before
it is seen. The rosy spiraea,
the mountain ash, and the
wild currant, are three com
mon shrubs in this area.
There are also numerous
small herbaceous plants of
the saxifrage family, some
forming dense mats to the exclusion of other plants. The mertensias, pole-
moniums, and shooting stars add much to the purple and blue coloring.
Two liliaceous plants of low altitude are always objects of marked interest.
The Clintonia, popularly called alpine beauty, begins in the forest area, and
continues up to the lower meadows. This may be known by its pure white
blossoms and blue berries. Its leaves are oblong in tufts of from two to four.
They spring up near the roots. The other is xerophyllum, mountain lily, some
times called squaw grass, because it is used by the Indians in basket making.
This has tall stems with small fragrant flowers and coarse grass-like leaves.
The writer has a list of about three hundred and sixty species from the
Mountain. It includes only flowering plants and ferns. There are more
than twen:y type species named from the Mountain, not a few of which
are found nowhere else. Its geographical position makes it the boundary
between the arctic plants from the North and the plants of Oregon and
California from the South. Its great altitude has a wonderful effect on plant
life \ food example of this is seen upon the trees at timber line, where
twenty feet or more of snow rests upon them for many months. Their prostrate
trunks and gnarled branches give ample testimony to their extreme struggle
for existence The prevailing wind on the high ridges gives direction to their

Avalanche Lilies (Erythronium montanum) forcing their way through
the snow.

100

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

Copyright, 1909, by Asahel Curtis
Moraine Park, Sluiskin Mountains and Mystic Lake.

trunks and branches. The latter hang from the leeward side, giving the trees
a one-sided appearance. Where the ordinary plants cease to exist the snowy
protococcus holds undisputed sway on the extensive snow fields. This is a
small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color in one stage of
its existence. Tourists often wonder what animal has been killed on the snow.
On some snow fields and glaciers, it is found associated with a small black
angle-worm. The writer has wondered whether the plant furnished food to
this little black wiggler in his inhospitable home.
Plant life, on the Mountain, as is well known, does not stop at the snow
line. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks of the rim, will be found three
or four mosses — I have noted one there which is not found anywhere else  ¦
several lichens, and at least one liverwort.

Canada Dogwood (Cornus canadensis)

View of the Mountain from Fox Island, with part of Puget Sound in the foreground. Distance, forty-two miles.

fl

Ah '

- T|| ~''TW\
gt^^^g
¦ ff*C ¦*
^fc^jw^^ryfr"'^ *JiffiM0BV2fc&&n
^ - i
J*>^rf«9t'-^
^
'
Mfi^-^^^B^^?^
¦^^
V.»j^
^¦^ ^lH^Bj§*7 ^kU
^ .'iy.^itk
i. ¦ '_.
SSS^:%; MLf?*-
Glacial Debris on lower part of Winthrop Glacier, with Sluiskin Mountains beyond.
V.
THE CLIMBERS
Climb the mountains, and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into
you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you,
and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. — John Muir.
GIVEN good muscles and wind, the other requisites for an ascent of the
Mountain are a competent guide and grit. It offers few problems like
those confronting the climber of the older and more crag-like Alps.
There are no perpendicular cliffs to scale, no abysses to swing across on a rope.
View of Paradise Valley from Pinnacle Peak, with South-side Route to the Summit. The route starts at Reese's
Camp, crosses the snow-fields above Nisqually Glacier, follows the Cowlitz Cleaver nearly to Gibraltar, then
turns east to avoid crevasses, passes Gibraltar from East to West, climbs the "Chute" on its West
side, and then makes the straightest line the crevasses will permit for Crater Peak.
THE CLIMBERS

103

Copyright, 1910, C. E. Cutter
The Oldest and the Youngest of the Climbers,
Gen. Hazard Stevens and Jesse McRae.
General Stevens, with P. B. Van Trump, in
1870, made the first ascent of the Mountain.
In 1905, he came west from his home in Bos
ton and joined the Mazamas in their climb.
The picture shows him before his tent in
Paradise Park. He was then 63 years old.

If you can stand the punishment of a long,
steady, up-hill pull, over the ice and loose
rocks, you may safely join a party for the
summit. But do not try it without guides.
The fatal end of Callaghan and Stevens,
in 1909, should long serve as a warning
against trusting to experience on other
mountains. No such wilderness of crevasses
and shifting snow slopes should be attacked
save in company with those who know its
trails. If one is going the popular route, and is
equal to so long and unbroken a climb, he
may start from Camp of the Clouds at dawn,
and reach the top before noon. But parties
frequently go up Cowlitz Cleaver in the
evening, and spend the night at Camp Muir,
a ledge below Gibraltar, named from the
famous mountain climber, John Muir, and
offering none of the accommodations of a
"camp" save a wind-break. The important
thing is to pass Gibraltar early, before the
sun starts the daily shower of icicles and
rocks from the cliff over the trail. This is
the most
dangerous
point, but

no lives
have ever been lost here. Everywhere, of
course, caution is needed. Overconfidence
may prove as costly as it did to Prof. Edgar
McClure, of the University of Oregon, who,
in 1897, was killed while descending from
Camp Muir after dark.
The east - side route involves less danger,
perhaps, but is a longer climb over the ice.
It has been less used because it is farther from
Paradise Valley. Starting from a night's en
campment on the Wedge, parties usually re
quire half a day to reach the summit.
The Gibraltar route has been the popular
one ever since Gen. Hazard Stevens and P. B.
Van Trump, on July 17, 1870, used it in the
first successful ascent of the Mountain. Each
of these pioneers on the summit has published

IIP!

P. B. Van Trump
made the fi

ho, with
rst ascent

Gen. Stevens,
n 1870.

Amphitheater of Carbon Glacier, the most important example of gla

The Carbon was once two glaciers, separated by a ridge. o^nTr^ a^ S, ^ mX ^^^^S^ ^

Copyright, 1909, by P. V. Caesar
Photo by Lea Bronson "-"»" B • . „ „
Avalanche falling on Willis Wall, at head of the great Amphitheater of Carbon Glacier. The Cliff here, up to the Snow Cap
visible on the Summit, is more than 4,000 feet high and nearly perpendicular. Avalanches fall every day,
but this picture of a big one in action is probably unique in Mountain Photography.

IOC

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

East Side of the Mountain, from the Wedge, showing Route to the Summit over the great White Glacier.
This is the easiest and safest of all the routes.
a noteworthy account of how they
got there, General Stevens in the
Atlantic Monthly for November,
1876, and Mr. Van Trump in the
second volume of Mazama. A
month after their ascent, they were
followed over the same route by
Messrs. Emmons and Wilson of
the Geological Survey.
Thirteen years before, in 1857,
Lieutenant (later General) A. V.
Kautz, with several companions,
had made the first attempt to scale
the peak of which we have any
record. He climbed up the arete,
or spine, between the glacier now
named for him and the Nisqually
glacier, but turned back on the
approach of night, when probably
within a thousand feet of the sum
mit. His route has since been fol-
La.eral Moraine of Carbon Glacier. Mountaineers building lowed Successfully to the top by
Trail. Many such Trails have been built, and more Several parties, the first, I believe,
are under construction. Without them the .. , r--\r r^t i
"Tenderfoot" would fare badly indeed. being that Of MeSSrS. GlaSCOCk

THE CLIMBERS

107

Mountaineers' Camp, Moraine Park, overlooking head of Carbon Glacier.

and Dudley of the Sierra Club, of San Francisco, in 1905. The White glacier
route was first used in 1885. In 1891 Mr. Van Trump reached the summit over
the ridge dividing the Tahoma
glaciers. The first woman to make
the ascent was Miss Fay Fuller, of
Tacoma, in 1890.
The north and northwest sides, as
I have said, are as yet unconquered.
Some members of the Mountaineers'
Club have a theory that the summit
can be reached from Avalanche
Camp by climbing along the face of
the cliff known as Russell Peak, and
so around to the upper snow field of
Winthrop. glacier. They have seen
mountain goats making the trip, and
propose to try it themselves. Whether
they succeed or not, this trail will
never be popular, owing to the land
slides caused by the daily ebb and
flow of frost in the loose rock of
which the cliff is built.
In recounting the famous ascents
of the Mountain, a word is due to
the work of three well-known clubs
of alpinists, the Mazamas, of Port
land; the Sierra Club, of California,
and the Mountaineers, a later organi
zation, having its headquarters in
Seattle and Prof. E. S. Meany of the

University of Washington as its en-

Serracs, or Ice Pinnacles, Carbon Glacier.

Looking Southeast from Mt. Rose, above Eunice Lake, with Mother Mountains on right, and Spray Park in distance on left.
Shows outposts of Alpine Firs and Hemlocks on the Timber Line.

Looking from Mt. Rose. Southwest, across Crater Lake to North Mowich Glacier and Mowich Ridge. This was taken from nearly the same place as the preceding view.
and at a distance of eight miles from the Mountain.

110

THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD"

thusiastic president. The Mazamas
have made two ascents, with large
parties, and each of the other clubs
has made one. Many members of
the Appalachian Club and of Euro
pean organizations of similar pur
pose have climbed to Crater Peak,
either in company with the West
ern clubs named, or in smaller
parties. All of these clubs have done
much to make the Mountain better
known. Each of the Coast socie
ties publishes a periodical. The
numbers of these publications de
scribing the ascents by the clubs
are of scientific value as well as
popular interest.
An excellent, though incomplete,
bibliography, prepared by Miss
Mary Banks, may be found in the
Mountaineer for November, 1909.
It covers the important scientific
publications on the Mountain thor
oughly, and cites a large number
of magazine articles. The list of
publications hitherto wholly de
voted to the subject is a very brief
one, the chief titles, outside of
books of pictures alone, being
James Wickersham's pamphlet on
the name ("Is it 'Mt. Tacoma' or
'Rainier,'" Tacoma, 1893), Oiin
D. Wheeler's "Climbing Mt.
Rainier," St. Paul, 1901, and Fred
G. Plummer's "Illustrated Guide
Book to Mt. Tacoma," Tacoma, no
date. I close this brief 'essay with ex
pert testimony. In 1883, Prof. Zit-
tel, the German scientist, and Prof.
James Bryce, long president of the
British Alpine Club, author of
"The American Commonwealth,"
and now British ambassr.dor to the
United States, explored our great

Copyright, 1909, by Asahel Curtis
Spray Falls, a splendid scenic feature of the North Side, where
it drops more than five hundred feet from the Spray Park
table-land into the Canyon of North Mowich Glacier.

THE CLIMBERS

111

Copyright, 1910, by C. E. Cutter
The Mountain, as seen from a high ridge in the Cascades near Green River Hot Springs,
showing the North and East faces of the Peak.
peak. Later, these famous mountain climbers united in publishing a note on
their impressions. They said, in part:
The scenery is of rare and varied beauty. The peak itself is as noble a mountain
as we have ever seen, in its lines and structure. The glaciers which descend from its
snow fields present all the characteristic features of those in the Alps, and though less
extensive than the ice streams of the Mount Blanc or Monta Rosa groups, are in their
crevasses and serracs equally striking and equally worthy of close study.
We have nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or Tyrol, in Norway or in the
Pyrenees, than the Carbon river glaciers and the great Puyallup glaciers. Indeed, the
ice in the latter is unusually pure, and the crevasses are unusually fine. .The com
bination of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest type is to be found
nowhere in the Old World, unless it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know,
nowhere else on the American continent.

Returning from the Summit. The Mountaineers ending a memorable outing in 1909. Winthrop Glacier
in foreground, Sluiskin Mountains in distance.

wEEf lEIli

MAP OF
PUGET SOUND COUNTRY
AND ROAOSTO
MT RAINIER -TACOMA

upiiwrn

Map of RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

Compiled by EUGENE RICKSECKER,
U. S. Assistant Engineer

i

TRAIL.S
ffOAOS PffOBASt-E ROADS

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