AROUND THE WORI

Other Places

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VONI R. ALLEN

SEEING JAPAN

PHOTO BY AUTHOR

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Around the World

Some Other Places

BY

ALVONI R. ALLEN

JERSEY CITY, N. J.
Hansen & Co. Ppess

1916

FOREWORD

THIS account of my journey around
the world in iocr8-'Q is a record
of one full year of travel and experi
ence, to which is added some trips
made more recently in the United
States and Canada. It is printed for"
private circulation at the request oi
my wife, to whom it is affectionately
dedicated by the author.
914-A

December, 191 6.

LOS ANGELES, CAL.
October 3, 1908.
Mff"T is a pleasing thing when leaving home
|| for a long trip to carry away some pleas
ant experience, and it so happened that the
evening I left, the Journal was to entertain the
lopal newsboys at the new theatre, and on my
way to the train I saw the crowd of boys and
caught their eager and expectant anticipation
of a bully good time ahead of them.
To come thus far on our way we have cross
ed ten States and two Territories, and in each
•of them saw evidence of prosperity and con
tentment. The drought, which had begun to
be of concern, had been broken, and we enjoy
ed the refreshing change for our personal com
fort and joined with everybody in thanksgiving
for the answer to the prayers and hopes of the
whole people.
Where the tiller of the soil is gathering
riches from the land, there is not much scenic
beauty; the grand picture-part of nature is
where the sage brush is abundant and the high
¦and rugged hills are so plenty that they are
piled one on top ot the other in most fantastic
-shapes, and where the prairie dog and the jack-

4
rabbit are most in evidence. Irrigation may sCrrse
day make these lowlands bloom and blossom
and bring forth largely in reward for man's ef
forts, but it will need a lot of water and a dif
ferent man than the Mexican or the Indian,
but in the meantime these, with the jackrabbit
and the prairie dog, add much to the picture.
For one entire day we rode across New-
Mexico at fast speed, getting our fill of nature's
wonders and a lot of sand and dust as an extra.
Most travelers, who refer to having been in
Mexico, mean this New Mexico. There is
little difference so far as the dwellings and the
people appear, for the population of New Mex
ico is mostly Mexican, and many of our politi
cians want to have this Territory made into a
State, mainly, no doubt, because there will be
two Senators added to that august body.
Neither in population or education is it fitted
for Statehood, but of course education cuts no
figure. To join it to Arizona would not be
just, because then the population would be
largely Mexican and Indian.*
From Alberquerque, N. M.T for some dis
tance we pass through a section where the In-

*The two Territories are now States,

s
dians are cattle raisers, and large droves of
horses, cattle and goats are seen under the care
of the Indian herdsmen and his faithful dog.
The road is very much on the up and down or
der, at times we reach an altitude of seven
thousand feet, and then go down three to five
thousand. At Williams we leave the main road, where
the first touch of Winter has come, and climb
the mountain to the Grand Canyon of Arizona,
one of the wonders of the world. We get our
first look at 9 a. m. and realize at once that the
half has not been told us. No picture has or
ever will present to the eye a correct impres
sion; no word has or will describe clearly this
wonder of nature. To the old-fashioned be
liever in a Creator of all things there comes a
feeling of adoration, because man who, perhaps
justly, feels a pride in his power, must here, if
never before, realize how weak and small a
thing is man. After a tramp along tbe rim to
the east and to the west of the canyon (and by
tramping it is best seen) aggregating some
twenty miles, and seeing from every point of
vantage the varied pictures, each seemingly
the more wonderful, we fail utterly to give ex
pression to our impressions, and my companion

6
finally covers the whole thing by the exclama
tion: "O, what is the use." It is well proven
that one's joy and appreciation is often best ex
pressed by silence or tears, and the last was
my way.
Directly in front of the hotel we look across
the canyon, fourteen miles wide, where the
level is fifteen hundred feet higher than where
we stand, which is 7,500 feet above the sea.
At another point we see to the west sixty miles
and to the east thirty miles of canyon, and we
look down to the river one mile below. Forms
of battle ships, castles, forums and temples,
crouching lions and people are seen in the form
ations, but not a single evidence of life, except
it be a company of tourists, looking like snakes,
crawling along that narrow trail four thousand
feet down, who are but intruders in that won
derful place of desolation.
All of this wonder is now a government re
servation, where nothing may be changed or
moved away, and is forever held for the pleas
ure and admiration and study of the people.
The hotels are there at the pleasure of the gov
ernment, and in the meantime for the comfort
of the visitors, which is amply provided for at
various rates, but mostly high.

7
It is singular that there is no water at this
elevation, but it must be brought by rail a long
distance and up the hill.
At the canyon one has the opportunity to
come in contact with two Indian tribes and see
and learn of and from them. The Navajo (pro
nounced Navaho) and the Hopi are represent
ed by both men and women. The Hopi live in
one of their tribal houses, which has been built
by them at the canyon. The women build and
own the houses, and the men are tolerated so
long as they behave. The men make the blan
kets, which are inferior to the Navajo blankets,
and the women make the pottery. The Navajo
women weave their blankets, which are very
valuable and not plenty. That tribe lives in
tents and wander about. Some of the men are
expert silver workers.
For the amusement of the traveler these
Indians give dances in the evenings, at which
a collection is received, the visitors throwing
on the floor at the dancer's feet money. The
Hopi dances to the beat of the drum, and the
Navajo chants bis dance music. The stay here
should not be less than two days.
The use of oil for locomotive fuel and also
for oiling the road bed makes travel over the
dry and dusty plains very comfortable.

ON BOARD SHIP
October 22, 1908.
ME are nearing the coast of Japan. We
have crossed the Pacific ocean and
sighted nothing bigger than a whale while on
the water. We sailed from San Francisco on
the 6th on board the splendid ship (as she has
proved to be) Korea on her voyage No. 30, with
a goodly number of passengers, in fact a full
house in the cabins, and an overflow in the
steerage. Before the ship sailed there was a very in
teresting meeting on the after deck of a devo
tional nature. A number of new missionaries
and several older (in time of service) were hav
ing a farewell meeting with many who were on
board to see them off. The singing was of a
very serious kind, intended, perhaps, to make
the occasion duly impressive, but it seemed to
me that something more lively and inspiring
would have been more suitable, certainly none
of us going on the trip expected or wanted to
be sent heavenward, but rather be made to feel
that continued life and a measure of happiness
was to be enjoyed. However, as remaining
was not compulsory, I did not stay to see if a
collection was lifted.

9
It has proved a lonely road across, so far as
meeting with things along the way. On board
ship there has been no lack of interest. Among
other items we have a Chinese man in the first
cabin, his wife is in the second, and his servant
in the steerage ; the wife is his bride, and he
pays her a visit during the day, as he also does
to his servant. There are several Japanese men
and women in the first cabin. The steerage is
crowded with Chinese, who spend most of their
time gambling. To see and watch them is one
form of change to the first cabin passenger.
The crew below the officers is Chinese, and a
fine looking body of men they are. The dining
service is also Chinese, and in their blue gowns
and black silk caps they make a clean and pret
ty picture. When we sailed from Honolulu
these costumes were changed to white, and at
the same time the officers all put on white uni
forms. Mealtime in the steerage was a most inter
esting sight. The food supplied, and in large
quantity, is rice, meat, fish and vegetables.
The chief necessity for their eating is a large
rice bowl and chop sticks. The rice is placed
in a large dish, and from it each person, man,
woman and child, fills a bowl. The other sup-

10
plies are in single dishes or pans set in large
trays, and around these six to ten persons squat.
The selections of fcod from these several trays
are picked out with the chop sticks and mixed
in with the rice in tbeir bowls as they eat. The
bowl is held close to the mouth and the con
tents pushed in. So far as I observed, they
drink no tea or water or any liquid with the
meal. Our ship is the cleanest I have ever travel
ed on, and it is absolutely free from all odors.
An alarm of fire in mid-ocean is not a very
cheerful sound, but when we learn that it is for
a drill, we take our part, which is to go at once
to the boat that has our table number. In event
of real trouble we know just what to do and
where to go. The officers come with tbeir re
volvers easy of reach, and every detail is car
ried out.
We reach our first and only stop en route,
Honolulu, on time and have a full day. A
number of our ship-made friends leave us there.
At night, when we sail, they all appear and
shower us with roses as we board the ship, a
delightful custom.
Honolulu, like many places, is hard to de
scribe. It is a beauty spot on the earth in

mid-ocean. At this season flowers are simply
galore. We ride through wide and beautiful
streets and along large and grand grounds sur
rounding beautiful homes, and out in the coun
try, over splendid boulevards reaching eleva
tions of over three thousand feet, giving us ex
tended views of land and sea. Honolulu is well
worth a visit of some length.
Life on board our ship is never dull. Games
of all sorts are arranged. A parade of the
horribles creates much competition, and one
wonders how it is possible to get together the
extreme costumes on board a ship. A baby
show from the steerage and a rice eating con
test between Chinese men go a long way to
keep things lively, and a wrestling match
among Japanese men is far from being dull.
We all afford amusement to each other, no
doubt. We have a fellow passenger, an Eng
lishman, who is returning from England via
America to his home in northern China; he is
a bachelor and says he will continue so only so
long as an American girl hesitates in her final
conclusion — yes. He carries back with him a
life size monkey, made after the manner of a
teddy-bear, which he plans to use as did the
Lady of the Decoration with her doll Susie

12
Dam. His nerves are not good, he is lonely at
times, and gets real angry, and at such times
he will take it out on the monke)*-. He doubts
the wisdom of marrying an American girl, be
cause his mind is fixed upon the fact that who
ever she may be, his wife will find that he
wears the trousers. We assure him that a real
American wife will let him think he wears
them, but when he takes inventory he will find
he has only worn the knee length underwear.
A six-leaf clover a friend gave me before
sailing (and perhaps the missionaries) has work
ed a smoothing effect upon the Pacific, and I
have escaped some of the usual trouble of sea
travel.

PHOTO BY AUTHOR

THE HORRIBLES

TOKto, Japan
October 28, 1908.
fT was my good fortune to arrive in Japarl
while our fleet was still there, so that we
see and appreciate what kind of reception and
hospitality were accorded to it.
We found among the officers of our navy
some friends, and have our impressions added
to by their account of experiences. If it could
be correctly described, the truth would sound
like some wild fancy, We have seen some de
monstrations and some public decorations, but
never anything to compare to what is seen here
or to equal it. The streets of Yokohama,
Tokyo, and the country roads everywhere were
wonderfully decorated, flowers, lanterns and
flags everywhere* Our flag was always in evi
dence, and at important places it was entwined
with Japan's flag. The children, and I have
never seen so many, lined the streets and the
roads, waving the two flags and calling their
greetings, and with special emphasis when an
American passed. The streets were packed
with people, and a more orderly crowd, I ven
ture to say, was never before seen. Not a
drunk nor a rowdy in all that vast throng.

Women were as numerous as men, and nearly
every woman from fifteen years and over had
a baby on her back — babies — you never saw so
many. East side, New York, can't begin to
show so many babies, and then, too, all the
mothers were not out on the street.
Fancy, if you can, thirty-two warships,
mostly battle ships, lined up in the harbor of
Yokohama on a clear day, and then on a dark
night when every ship is outlined by electric
lights, and hundreds of small boats decorated
With lanterns, and then add to that picture the
effect of a display of fireworks as only Japan or
China can furnish, and you have some idea of
the picture seen for two days and nights from
my veranda. One thrilling incident, typical of
the occasion, was Witnessed. In some way a
fire was started in a street and in such a way
that a large Japanese flag took fire and was
threatened to be destroyed, when a sailor of the
United States navy left the ranks and climbed
to its rescue and saved it. The officials of Ja
pan started an inquiry to learn the name of the
sailor, who had modestly withdrawn himself.
No doubt he was discovered and suitably re*
warded. An officer of the American ship left
behind, when the fleet sailed, told me that dur»

»5
ifig their stay at Yokohama twelve thousand
men of the fleet had been on shore, and all but
two had reported in time to sail. That fixed a
high record fot the men of our navy, it being
kept in mind that everything in Japan was
free, including transportation.
The people of Japan are a happy and indus*
trious people and doing their Work with smil*
ing faces. We see no loafers. At first we feel
pity for the "horse man'*, the men who pull the-
drays, the water carts, and jinrikishas, but they
are good-natured and jolly. One of them puli«
ed me ten miles one afternoon and was on a
trot all the time. Most Japanese are sturdy
fellows, but they, like other athletic men, groW
old quickly and must give way to the younger.
The men are old at fifty and most women at
thirty-five, but, sad to say, most of the women
are mothers at fifteen.
In the rice fields the men and women work
together. Neither do or can wear much cloth
ing while at work in the soft ground where rice
Is grown, but the mud makes a fair substitute
for clothing. The woman is also a laborer in
other lines and has a place in the stores, where
she is consulted as to prices, and she handles
the money. Whatever her condition may have1

i6
been in the past, she now seems to be ill evi'
dence in many ways of importance.
Getting about without knowing the language
is somewhat difficult, but it can be done. Guides
are at times desirable, but more often they are
a nuisance. The jinrikisha man who speaks
some English (English is taught in the schools)
knows tbe city and is the best guide, and a little
extra reward makes him desirous to show yoii
places where the professional guides do not go,
and it is in the stores and the factories where
the tourist is not taken that the traveler who is
not in a great hurry sees the real Japan and the
workers at their tasks.
It was in Tokyo, in one of the shops (not
store), that we saw a two-fold screen, one of a
pair just finished for a European purchaser. It
was gold laquer work and valued at $23,000.
Three men had been working on it for three
years. The men who do this class of work are
like the Japanese soldier, not big to look at,
but big in the "doings".
While here at Tokyo it has been my privil
ege to see, by invitation, the grand review by
the emperor of the troops, having a seat in a
tent close to that of the emperor. On all such
occasions one must appear in a Prince Albert

17
coat and a top hat. An overcoat must not be
worn. There were 30,000 troops reviewed, be
sides a large number of retired officers, veterans
of the recent war. In the evening of the same
day I attended by invitation the emperor's ball
in the official residence, a magnificent affair.
The royal family did not mingle with the com
pany, but engaged in one or two dances with
members of the diplomatic society, after which
dancing was promiscuous. The court ladies
were dressed some in the modern and others in
native dress.

NIKKO, JAPAN
November 2, 1908.
i^'HE climate of Japan is not greatly diffef-
^^ ent than around New York, though not
so severe in any of the seasons. Up here in
Nikko, before the middle of November we find
it cold and some snow. From here we go north
to Lake Schuzenji, which is fully three thousand
feet higher elevation, and where the cold is
more continuous. The journey is made by the
jinrikisha, and the road is up a zig-zag route,
very narrow and steep. Two men are neces-
.-ary to pull, and for much of the way the pas
senger must walk, because it is easier for the
horses (men) and safer for you. The curves
are sharp and often close to the edge of a very
t onsiderable precipice, down which it is at least
more comfortable to look from on foot than
from the riki. At this season of the year the
people of Japan visit Schuzenji to see the
maple coloring and the grand scenery, which
is intensified by reason of the mountains then
covered with the new-fallen snow.
Comparisons of country as to the natural
attractions are not as a rule wise. This old
world of our's is crammed full of wonderful

19
nature-pictures, many decidedly different, and
many very similar. We heard and read much
of the Autumn foliage, and especially of the
maple, and we find the picture very pleasing
but fail to join in the extreme rapture of some
other Americans who declare, without reserva
tion, that in their country there is no such bril
liant coloring, and are surprised that I do not
agree with them. They admit, when urged,
that they have never seen the Delaware Water
Gap, the Birkshires, or the Hudson River in
the Autumn, nor even the northern part of
Michigan. Of course, their knowledge of their
country therefore is not to be questioned. We
saw the views, sailed over the lake, and then
came down the mountain zig-zag road in a rush,
at times around a curve on one wheel, but we
were late, and a crooked, steep mountain road
after dark has some dismal features. Then,
too, our men, like the real horse, wanted to get
home and get round the little charcoal brazier
and get warm; as a rule they wear no trousers;
when they stop they put a small wrap about
them and huddle around the little fire.
Here at Nikko are the grandest of the many
wonderful temples of Japan, as also the oldest.
Under the Shogun rule rivalry of temple build-

20
ing was similar to that of the ancient rulefs of
Egypt in pyramid construction. The temples
and the pagoda here are beautiful for situation
as well as for construction. The way to these
runs through forests of the magnificent crypto-
meira trees, planted by the rulers and now
guarded and preserved with great care. A
stone stairway of two hundred steps leads up
the mountain among the trees to the tomb of
the first Shogun. To the natives it is a shrine
and to the traveler a place of interest to see.
From it a wide and grand view of the surround
ing country is enjoyed and a comprehensive
picture of the temples may be had. At the ho
tel we are provided with warm slippers, for no
shoes may be worn in the buildings. These
temple acres were formerly regarded such holy
ground that women were not permitted to en
ter them, but the foreign women coming as-
sight seers, and the need of funds to preserve
them, has removed that restriction, and now
the native may enter, if she has the price. On
one of the temples there are three carved mon
keys (the three celebrated Nikko monkeys).
One has its ears covered, one its eyes covered,
one its mouth covered, to teach to all; "See,

21
hear and speak no evil." A good motto for
the world.
The hotels at Nikko are fairly good and the
service satisfactory. The heating facilities are
not very good. Fuel is very scarce, and the
stoves are small. These are in the rooms and
are looked after by the little maids who come
into your room early in the morning and start
the fire and soon after bring the hot water.
The doors are not locked, and if you are not a
light sleeper you are not disturbed. In the
dining room everything is clean and cheerful ;
you order by number, though some of the
maids understand English, and there is no de
lay or confusion. In the shops and stores some
one will speak your language and succeed in
getting some, at least, of your money.
Getting about in the jinrikisha is a most
comfortable way after the first time. Carriages
are few and look out of place, but no doubt will
soon be more general and then drive out the
present system, which fits in so well with the
country. It will not be long before Japan will
be modernized, and one will have to go back
into the interior to see real Japan. The jin
rikisha is not built for two, and riding is lone
some, especially at night.

Flowers, as we expected they would be, are
not plenty, and green grass is not in evidence.
The decorations at functions are mostly artifi-
ficial, as were those at the emperor's ball.
Plants are brought in from the hot houses, and
public exhibitions are given, but one sees no
such display of flowers as in our own country,
or in Ireland.
The land is highly cultivated, intensely so.
The smallest place is made to produce some
vegetable. Rice is the main crop, and is a con
tinuous one. We see the newly planted, the
ripening and the harvested crop, all in the
same field. The markets are full of green
things. Green peas are cooked in the pod and
served that way. A good assortment of fruit
is grown, but aside from grapes it is not very
tempting. The system of fertilization for the
vegetable product does not command our favor
or induce us to indulge in that line of food.

MIYANOSHITA, JAPAN
November 8, 1908.
/^^UT of Yokohama for a day's trip, and a
^y very interesting one, one may go to Ka
makura on the sea shore, where the great bronze
statue of Buddah or Daibusta is. This statue
was originally in a fine temple, but a great tidal
wave swept over the beach and carried the
building away. No funds being available to
rebuild, Buddah was left sitting out of doors
and remains there. He stands the exposure
well and among the trees is very attractive.
His intrinsic value is very considerable, for
aside from the value of bronze, there are some
costly precious stones fixed on his person. This
is the largest Buddah known. It is forbidden
to take pictures of him, because the right has
been sold, and the traveler is watched to see
that the rule is observed, but as it is true that
one sometimes can't see for looking, it was, in
my case, possible to get a snap shot while seem
ingly looking at the sky.
Natives and travelers come to see Buddah
in large numbers, and at the same time visit
the sacred island Enoshema, connected with the
main land by a picturesque bridge, as all bridges

24
in Japan are, over a mile long across a sandbar.
A very good tiffen (lunch) may be enjoyed at
the hotel. This place is one of the mountain
resorts of the country and perhaps the best of
all. The hotel, a superior one, is at fifteen
hundred feet elevation on the mountain side, is
open the year round and at all times well pat
ronized. The mountains round about are from
two to ten thousand feet high, the highest and
grandest of all being the world famous Fuji
yama, the greatest mountain of Japan, always
snow-capped and always looked for from the
ship as the first thing to see as one approaches
the country, but, like many specially desired
things, difficult to see owing to fog near the
shore, but seen, never to be forgotten.
At this season the attraction for a visit to
the mountain resort is the fall foliage, which
here, as at Schuzenji, is brilliant and abundant.
Excursions are made from here over the moun
tain trails by horse, or in a chair carried by four
coolies, or on foot through the "Ten Promise
Pass" on to where a good view may be had of
the great mountain, if the sky be clear. It is
a trip full of thrills. The return is usually
made by train.
In place of this trip I secured a guide (a

25
coolie), who could speak some of my language,
and started early for a tramp which took us
over trails that were less than two feet wide and
up and down grades of never less than forty-five
per cent, at places wondering how long it would
take for a man of my size to reach the bottom
if a misstep were made. My coolie had a sense
of humor and could understand an American
joke if made slowly, and could tell a good Ja
panese joke so that I could get it. He talked
to me about our navy, the fine ships and the
men — for mind you, he had gone to Yokohama
to see them — and of the great and good friend
of Japan, America. This man was the head
porter of the house so far as to the outside
matters; he directed the excursions and looked
after sending the chair carriers, the horse riders
and the walkers. He read the papers and told
me that a large percentage of the working
people read their local and national papers. In
the afternoon of the same day he took me on a
tramp over the hills to show me the sulphur
mines, which he called big and little hell, and
after standing pretty close to the craters I was
satisfied the name was appropriate, and then
we went on a higher point and from there got
a perfect view of Fujiyama. My guide was

26
most humble, but boiling over with delight
when he saw the great mountain uncovered and
standing out in all its glory. As he turned to
tell me, he discovered that I was ahead of him,
and as I shouted "kekko," the word in Japan for
splendid, I thought he would fall down and
worship me, so delighted was he It is hard to
understand or appreciate the Japanese admira
tion of and for nature.
This is the season for threshing the rice. It
is combed out or flailed and winnowed by the
wind. A few thrashing machines in the country
would put half the population out of work. A
great big grubbing hoe takes the place of a
plow. Barley is being planted for the winter
crop. Barley and rice are ground together for
flour, but each is used in other ways for food.
My coolie talks to me of the late Russian and
Japanese war and tells me of his brother who
was killed and bemoans the sadness and loss
brought on the nation and hopes that there will
be no more war. As he put it, "We no want
war ; war is expensive; costs much money, and
many men are killed and after it the taxes are
high." This man served me all day and at the close
fixed his own price for his services of one yen

27
fifty, in our money seventy-five cents, a larger
sum than usual. He is one of millions who
know about his country and other countries.
He is strong and cheerful. A joke he played on
me was to tell me on our afternoon tramp every
thing I had eaten for my tiffin (lunch) and he
did it correctly. I learned afterwards that, while
he had no access to the dining room, his sister
was a waitress, but not at my table. He had
prompted her to watch me and post him, and
therefore his being able to give me the details.
One of many pleasant examples of their humor.

KOBBE, JAPAN
November 20, 1908
?flTF I get out of this country without my riki-
|| sha man running over a baby or a soldier
it will be a happy relief. When we see the
army manoeuvres at several places it is not sur
prising that one thinks every man in Japan is a
soldier, and the remainder of the population is
made up of wom^n and children, but when I
call for a rikisha man it seems as if every man
pulled a riki.
They say that the population of Japan is
fifty millions, but I am sure that is understated ;
I am sure I have seen that many children play
ing in the streets of the places visited, and half
as many more carried around on the backs of
mothers or sisters. Over here you see a six
year old child with a baby strapped on its back
playing hop, skip and jump, and doing it well.
The baby can't enjoy it much, as its little head
goes bobbing back and forth, but you never
hear it complaining. The children play, and
laugh and shout, as in America, and they are not
bleared eyed nor deformed, but fat, smart and
jolly. The families are not small; seven to a
family would be a fair average.

29
On the Way to this city we visited several
smaller but equally interesting ones. At
Nagoya the Temple of the Olden Days is a
most interesting example of the Shogun reign.
On the streets of Nagoya I found myself at
tracting considerable attention which, however,
was not annoying. Not so many travelers stop
off there, and persons of sandy hair and whis
kers are somewhat of a curiosity, and I, being
in that class, caused the interest. Among the
shops we saw much of interest. At one we
were received very pleasantly and were served
with tea, a very usual thing, and then taken
about the factory where the beautiful ware was
being made. At one bench a boy eleven years
of age was laying the gold wire in a fine dama->
scene, a most expensive piece. It is these little
fellows who soon are the artists whose name on
a piece of choice Ware adds much to its value.
Going through these shops one gets a good idea
of the value of the best things. From three to
six months is necessary to finish some of the
small pieces, and of course a much longer time
for the larger pieces. As we sat in one shop
looking at choice pieces, we wonder where the
capital comes from to produce and carry the
stock. For some time we were left alone in the)

33
room where these goods were, a compliment to
ourselves and also to our country.
At Kioto there was much of interest, per»
haps the most interesting thing to the visitor
the first time is the beautiful temples and the
temple grounds, which are generally splendid
parks. Higashi-Honganji Temple is a modern
and the most beautiful temple of all. The roof
is of bark, smooth and graceful in line and
curve. To this temple ten thousand women
gave their hair for the making of rope strong
enough to pull the large timbers in place. This
rope we saw, as it is preserved in the temple,
There are places well worth visiting in and
about the city.
We went over to the quaint city of Nara for
a day's outing. The emperor was there re-
Viewing a large part of the army, and the crowd
was worth seeing.
The park in which a sacred temple is situat
ed is well stocked with deer, which are sacred
and very tame. The stores at Kioto are among
the best in Japan. Buying from them is very
different than in our country. The probable
purchaser tells what is desired, and it is brought
to the counter. Some stores admit customers
through the building, but all shoes must be re-

itloVed and left in care of the pofter at the en
trance. It is a peculiar sight to see at the en
trance of stores and theatres hundreds of pairs
of shoes put under cover and left to be called
for when the play is over. I asked my com
panion, who spoke English, how the owner
could possibly identify his or her pair, as they
all looked alike to me. He replied that it was
just as easy as for an American to pick out
his hat when coming out of a large hotel dining
room at his home. I kept my shoes on, but had
the door-keeper put over them a covering that
protected the floor.
At Tokyo I had presented a letter of intro*
duction to the head of the largest banking and
commercial institution of the country, from
whom I received invitations to the emperor's
ball and to the review of the army. Leaving
there, however, before receiving some social
attention which he planned, I was surprised to
find at Kobbe that he had directed their branch
offices at every city to look me up and show me
attention. At Kioto they located me and ar«
ranged to have me accept their attention at
Kobbe, insisting that I must not leave the
country until my letter of introduction had
been properly recognized, one example of the

32
hospitality of Japan and Japanese. At Kobbe
Mr. Kidesaki, representing his corporation,
joined me at tiffin, and then in one of their
private boats took me about the splendid har
bor, where the entire navy bad assembled for
review, giving me the opportunity to see and
Visit the ships. Seventy warships of various
kinds impressed me as a no mean sea power.
Not having my Prince. Albert coat, nor my top
hat, we omitted, at my request, going on board
the flag ship. The following day, as a guest, I
was taken to and shown the city of Osaka,
where we visited the mint, the large cotton
mills, the river, and the great harbor, where
the government is making most elaborate im
provements both in the way of protection and
shipping facilities. Then to the headquarters
of my host where, as he put it, I was recom
mended to the head official. Then to a tiffin
at a Japanese restaurant, where the service was
European. In the evening we dined real Jap
anese, a dinner of eleven courses served as we
sat on the floor, the usual way a very trying
experience to an American, who is not in the
habit of sitting on his feet. I did not eat of
every dish but enjoyed the experience and the
company of the Geisha girls, whose task is to

33
entertain, and who are educated in that line.
After our dinner we attended the theatre.
The floor of the theatre or orchestra, as we call
it, is divided off into many boxes, which are
below the level of the stage and are reached by
aisles on the level with the stage, from which
short steps descend to the boxes, which hold six
or more persons. Food and drink are brought
or may be obtained, and during the play socia
bility is carried on to the full. The play, while
not over-thrilling, was quite interesting, but to
really enjoy it one must be educated up to it.
These two days were crowded full of interest,
and with some difficulty I succeeded in convin
cing my hospitable host that I must be excused
from further evidence of his desire to look after
my pleasure, as my time for departure to China
was close at hand.
Kobbe is big every way, and interesting in
all ways that go to make a great city. From
the roof garden of our hotel the view toward
the harbor gives one a good impression of a
busy city from that point of view, while toward
the land overlooking the city and up on the
hills the life and bustle of the streets show the
¦evidence of activity and prosperity and future
growth of this the second city of the empire.
We are to sail from here for Hong Kong
when our ship, the China, now due, arrives.

SHANGHAI, CHINA
November 28, 1908.
£j-*OMEONE has, and correctly too, called
eU this city an understudy for Chicago, but
no matter how much it is like Chicago, it is a
fair haven to reach after our experience the
past two days and nights. A typhoon on the
Yellow Sea is the acme of sea experience in the
line of what a mad sea ean do to one. At Kobbe
we elected to take passage for Hong-Kong on
the ship China, on which we sailed away late
in the afternoon and early the following morn-"
ing awoke entering the Inland Sea. Among
travelers this water is regarded as one of the
most picturesque of all inland bodies of water.
Whatever may be its correct rank in nature
pictures, it is all that is claimed for it. All day
we have a constant change of scene, not the
least of which were tbe wonderfttl cloud effects.
Toward evening we pass out into the ocean,
passing Moji, where the Japanese navy went
out on its way to battle with Russia, and head
for Nagasaki, where we take on coal. The
coaling of ships at this port is a most inter
esting sight. It is done almost entirely by
women, who carry the' coal from the barges-

35
along-side the ship up ladders in baskets on
their heads to the many port holes and there
empty the contents. So fast do they work that
it is claimed the coaling is done as rapidly as if
machinery was used, and by this method many
are given employment who otherwise would
suffer because of no work. To an American
such labor is not pleasing, but we see the need
of it. Leaving this port on the evening of the day
that in our country is Thanksgiving Day, and
on an American ship, it was a patriotic sight
to watch the tables being set for a real home
Thanksgiving dinner.
As we sailed out of the harbor I remarked
to the captain that the sky had a forbidding ap
pearance; he replied that it did look a little
windy, but we would go out and have a look at
it. As I passed through the dining room I had
a look at the prospective good dinner and went
to my room to prepare for it. Like some other
anticipated pleasures that one was to be missed.
The captain found the wind, and I my couch,
where I remained until we were approaching
Shanghai and the smooth waters. The Yellow
Sea is fuller of holes, and big ones, than any
deep water traversed. The ship went down

36
into most of them, though the first officer after
wards said he thought a few were missed, and
I wished earnestly more than once that she
would not get out. Some things happened,
such as smashing the stearing gear and a few
other unimportant things.
Shanghai is a combination of ancient and
modern to the extreme. The principal means
of transportation is a wheelbarrow fixed with
seats like the Irish jaunting car. It is pushed
by the coolie like the barrow and is about as
dirty as the ordinary one. It is neither as com
fortable or attractive as the jinrikisha of Japan.
This is a "free port," and every nationality
of the earth is represented on the streets Each
country maintains its own post-office, and we
buy and attach our two cent stamp to our let
ters as we do at home. The new and modern
part of the city has great wide, well paved
boulevards, lined by large and costly homes in
large and well kept grounds. The modern ho
tel is first-class in all respects.
It is a short walk into the old and walled
town, where the streets are so narrow that two-
may not walk side by side, and where there is
nothing modern. The many and little shops
draw your interest and extract some of your

37
money, for it is in such places you find things
real Chinese. We thought there were some
children in Japan, but we had not yet seen
China. About the centre of the old town we visited
the tea house or the swell club of the better
class of business men ; it stands in the centre of
a small artificial lake and is approached from
two directions by a very fantastic and very
crooked bridge. The Chinese are superstitious
and believe that the devilcannot followacrooked
path, and they have no wish for his company.
It is built in the artistic Chinese style of architec
ture and as a picture is pretty. The water of
the lake had a green, slimy covering, rather
suggestive from a viewpoint of health, and our
desire for tea was not strong enough to tempt
us. From here the way to Pekin is by steam
boat part way and by rail part way. There
being some disturbances of a political nature at
Pekin, we do not go, but will continue on to
Hong-Kong, sailing in the evening. The China
Sea has its peculiarities, and we will experience
some of them, for most of the trip of two days
we will keep in sight of the rocky barren shore
of China. In the strait of Formosa we may
expect a severy gale that we trust will be be-

38
hind us. The Chinese junks in these waters are
so many that we do not count them but are in
constant dread that our ship will run them
down, so near do we get to them. As we see
into the faces of the crews we recall the many
stories of the pirates of the China Sea, and see
the rocky shore full of safe hiding places, there
comes a reality to the stories that is thrilling.
As the captain said about the storm at Na
gasaki, we will go out and have the experience,'
for along the way these boats will be continu
ally met. Many of these junks have a great
eye painted on each side of the bow, so that, as
the natives say, the ship may see, "For if it no
see it can no go."

HONG-KONG, CHINA
December 10, 1908.
^ft*0 rightly enjoy and appreciate most things
l^gi or events a right setting is very essential,
whether it be a world's champion prize fight or
a church wedding. To get the real point of
view of the approach to and entrance in the
splendid harbor of this place the setting should
be an experience such as I had in a typhoon in
the Yellow Sea and a gale on the Formosa
Strait, so that when in the early forenoon of a
glorious day the battered and sorely tried noble
ship is signaled from the watchman on the high
hill and told to come on, you enter fully into
the excitement of coming to anchor in one of
the finest harbors of the world and realize that
for a time at least you are safely sheltered from
the troubles old Neptune stirs up in his domin
ions so often.
Hong-Kong is an English colony in China,
a very interesting island as a piece of nature,
not very large, perhaps five or six miles long,
and varying in width and also in height. The
principal point of interest is the City of Victo
ria on the bay of same name, which is the main
harbor. The city extends from the water up

4°
on the sides and tops of the hills, which vary in
altitude to eighteen hundred feet. The finest
homes are up on the hills, from where extensive
viewsof seaand landare enjoyed. Inclined roads,
operated by steam, carry people to and from
the business section, but because of fixed con
ditions no goods or freight of any kind are car
ried. The chief condition, as I understand it,
being the necessity of work by which the na
tive population may secure a livelihood, every
kind of labor must be done by hand toward
that end. The population is fully ninety per
cent native, but the government rests with the
English, which secures a clean and healthy city.
The hotels are very good and the service fair;
of course, the stores and shops are tempting
and costly to the traveler.
This is a free-port, and there is no custom
house troubles to confront us on arrival. The
shipping here aggregates an amount to put
Hong-Kong among the top shipping ports of
the world.
From here we expected to go to Manila, but
the storms are in fury and constant, and no
word has come from the ship we are booked for ;
the last one in reports that the passengers had
to be tied in the berths, a very attractive story

4r
following my experience on the Yellow Sea.
There is thrill a plenty in the stories about
the trip to Canton; there are three lines of
steamboats between here and Canton by night;
every boat goes out and comes in loaded with
passengers, mostly third class, who are kept on
the lower deck and prevented from getting on
the upper decks by iron doors securely locked.
We see and hear of messenger boys paid to get
on the line at the opera house in New York or
on the base ball park ticket line and staying
there until the sale of tickets begins the follow
ing morning; here I have seen a messenger of
some native get a ticket early in the morning
and then place his master's mat in a selected
place on the lower deck, and there he would
remain until his master came at sailing time to
take possession. Fifteen hundred to two thou
sand of such passengers travel on each of these
boats every night, and back home we hear of the
poverty among these people. The day boats
are also well patronized, and for the traveler
who wants to see people and things they are
the most desirable. The Pearl River day trip to
Canton is most enjoyable; the towns, the pago
das along the banks, the great number ot water
craft and their peculiarities of construction,

42
method of propulsion and size interest and
amuse you. Some are sail driven, some stern-
wheel drive by man power, the men treading
the wheel; others are rowed or poled.
These passenger steamboats of the French,
English and Chinese lines are first class and
equipped with all modern conveniences, in
cluding electric light. The main means of
transportation is by the sampans and the big
junks which are built to carry; they are clumsy
but picturesque and well adapted to the pur
pose. No native is ever in a hurry, unless he
has been in a fight and is trying to get away
from the victor, a hard job if the winner has
him by the queue. Until I saw a fight in the
street between two Chinamen I failed to see
the advantage of the queue, and then I saw
that there were two sides to that as of most
things. The sampan is usually managed by the wo
men. Many of them are used for passenger
service on the rivers and canals into the interi
or, the only means of travel except on foot, as
railroads are not built except near the coast.
These boats are also used as homes; at Canton
more than three hundred thousand of the pop
ulation live on them, they are born, married

43
and die on them. Most of them never go on
shore in the city of Canton or Hong-Kong, be
cause they are not allowed to. You see them
washing their clothing and their person with
the river water and see them filling the cooking
utensils from the same river, and you think of
sanitary rules and consequences and then won
der how there are so many living persons in the
country. Several miles away from Canton you
discover Canton because of the special odor that
comes to you if the wind is favorable. The
foreign population, which numbers less than
one thousand, live on the island Shamen
(Shawmen), the sandy place. A bridge con
nects it with the city through closed and guard
ed gates. The island is owned in fee by the
English and French governments, and no na
tive can reside or remain on it except as a ser
vant. After sunset no one may go out or in
the gate unless identified, and all native ser
vants must carry a lighted lantern after dark.
This island is a very pretty place, and on it the
representative of our country lives. The hotel,
such as it is, is on this plot. I won a wager
from a friend who knew Canton and the hotel,
because I did remain longer than one full day.
I earned the wager but never got it.

44
The streets of Canton are so narrow that
the chair carriers have difficulty in getting
about, and persons on foot have their troubles.
The shops and stores devoted to particular lines
are interesting, but after a half day of discov
ery in the streets and among the shops one will
conclude that at Hong-Kong, where the streets
are wider and far cleaner, and where the for
eigner is not so much of a curiosity, is in all re
spects the right place to shop and buy. All
products of Canton and its section are on sale
here, except the smells.
On Money Street they sell money by weight.
To watch them scoop up the copper money and
weigh it makes you think money and beans are
alike very common. It takes a lot of copper
pieces to equal five cents in real money.

fffftft

BOAT LIFE IN CANTON

PHOTO BY AUTHOR

COLOMBO ON CEYLON
December 25, 1908.
^'HE run from Hong-Kong here is eleven
^^ days, including the stops at Singapore
and Penang, through the Strait Settlements;
This run has proved to be for me the most
comfortable of any along our journey. The sea
has been kind and the weather pleasant, al
though warm; travelers must be ready for tro
pical conditions when they leave Hong-Kong.
A Sunday on a British ship is a very interest
ing day. The ship's crew is made up of an as
sortment of various nationalities of the far'
eastern countries, and the evidence of what cast
means is seen to full advantage. Before morn
ing service, which is conducted by the captain
or purser, the inspection of the crew is some'
thing well worth seeing. Each nationality ap
pears in the distinctive dress of their country,
and the variety goes to make a most picturesque
sight. Ship's orders are transmitted to the
crew by a whistle, which is understood by each
member, no matter what nation is his. One
cast may not eat of the food or drink of the
water of the other, and all distinctions are duly
observed.

46
The route for part of the way is close
enough to shore to permit of passengers get
ting a sight of land frequently. All of one
forenoon we ran along the cost of Siam. The
usual experience with rain and fog was our's,
but we had an extra amount of clear weather
and favorable wind. When conditions are fav
orable the Southern Cross is seen to advantage,
and having expressed my wish to one of the
officers to see it, I was called by the officer on
the bridge at four one morning just after a
storm had passed, and I had the great pleasure
of seeing the Cross in its full glory, a picture
never to be forgotten.
Singapore was our first stop, reached the
afternoon of the fifth day out. The stop was
short, so that to see the city the use of time
was important. The Japanese rikisha we wel
comed, and in it we saw the town and the out
skirts. One full and a part of a day and the
nights permit one to see and enjoy much. The
city is a real one, with fine buildings, clean
streets, well policed by splendid looking men
who are brought from other countries, who like
the dignity that is theirs because of the author
ity their uniform gives them, and the enforce
ment of the law is no sham. The Hotel Eu-

47
rope, where we had tiffin, and the Raffles Mo
tel, where we dined, are noted through the far
east for modern appointments, and that they
do not come up to Claims does not make them
especially different from others we have seen
not so far from home.
We read about tropical rain storms, but to
be able to qualify as an expert one must not
Only see but be in one. They do not last longj
but while they continue it is desirable to be
under cover.
From Singapore to Penang is a run of
twenty-four hours. There We had a full day
After a general visit about the city and a good
tiffin (lunch) at the Oriental & Eastern Hotel,
We went back into the country for some miles
among the orange and palm and the cocoanut
groves, and on the Way back visited the won
derful botanical gardens. Among the cocoa-
nut trees we paid a native to give us an exhibit
tion of climbing the trees and gathering the
nuts. He was not burdened with clothing, and
the way he went up a tree that was branchless
for seventy feet made us feel that he earned his
money rather easy, though neither of us would
have done the act for many times his fee, which
was not small. Natives soon learn that a tray-

48
eler will pay for something he or she wants to
see. At Singapore we were one-half of the
way around the world, and at Penang we began
moving our watches backward.
From Penang here the run is between three
and four days. After one day's run along Su
matra we get away from land and also into
warmer weather, both day and night. The
Dutch ships on this route furnish electric fans
free in the bed rooms, but the English furnish
nothing free unless it be singing. I am inclin
ed to think that each English person regards it
a duty to carry music when traveling and sing
it after dinner, whether on ship or land; to
dress for dinner and to sing are the two most
essential things to be done. The dressing is
far better than the singing. It is always well
to keep in mind that many annoyances must be
accepted when traveling. I selected the Eng
lish ships to make the trip from Hong-Kong
for two reasons, one because I am going from
here to Calcutta and across India and sail from
Bombay where the German ships do not stop,
and the other reason is that I speak only Eng
lish. The custom of the officers of the English
ships of coming to the dinner table in full even-

49
ing dress does not impress an old traveler as
the right thing to do. As one sees the officers
at the table so dressed and with the always at
his side bottle of whisky and one of soda,
both being freely drawn from, the question
arises as to whether that condition of prepared
ness is the best for the patrons of the ships,
and whether England as a nation is not being
weakened by this whisky and soda habit that is
universal, as I have observed all along this trip
and am told it will be even more in evidence
through India.
The island of Ceylon is a favored subject
for all real writers, of whom I am not one, so
that any attempt to go into descriptions by me
will not be wise. My personal experience may
be of some interest. The arriving at any new
place has a distinct interest, and especially so
if in a far off country and after a long trip on
the sea. My first sight of the island was very
early in the morning of a clear day, and my
note-book says it was a welcome sight. It was
after the noon hour when we were far enough
in the open harbor in the bay to land. The
Galla-Face hotel we found crowded, and we
were obliged to go to the Grand Oriental, where
I found -my room fitted with an electric fan;

50
electricity is driving the punkah boy out of his
job. The punkah boy whose duty it was, and
is in many places, to sit outside of the room
and work a big fan fitted in the room, and who
so often fell asleep, has been written and pic
tured so much that he is well known. In some
of the banks and stores he is now seen at his
task. The streets are full of interesting sights
which include first of all the people, who are
seen in all kinds of dress, and in no dress ex--
cept one of black that never can be removed
and having the advantage of being easy to
wash. The means of travel are many and as
varied ; the bullock carts with one seat and no
spring is the real native thing, but the rikisba
is the easier, and though the horse is a China
man whose first rule is not cleanliness, one pre
fers it. This city is noted for its stores for the
sale of precious stones, of which the real and
the artificial garnet is the best known, and for
ivory, real and imitation, and for goods from
all parts of India. The stocks are large and of
great variety. No one should fail to follow the
custom of the country and always take time to
trade. The first price should never be paid
and a purchase be made only after a long deal.
A leading merchant told me that to make a sal©

Si
right off, even at the first asked price, was too
tame and was without any of the spice of a
trade. The dealer in stones, genuine or false,
is a walking shop; from every pocket in his
clothing he will bring a case full of tempting
gems and entertain you patiently and with all
good nature. He enjoys it, and so will you as
you sit in the cool hall of the hotel during the
hottest part of the day.
The one chief trip from Colombo is up to
Kandy by rail. This is up in the mountain
into a very different atmosphere. As the na
tives claim that Colombo is only forty miles
from heaven, one may feel nearer there when
•at Kandy. Kandy the city is built around an
artificial lake among the hills and is a beauty
spot of nature. Just out of the city is the
world-famed botanical garden, which is all the
adjectives you can think of. On the way out I
got a snap shot of a wedding procession by pre
tending to take a picture of a friend with me.
Kandy is the centre of the Buddhist religion.
There is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth (the
left eye tooth of Buddha rescued from the ashes
-of his funeral pyre nearly three thousand years
¦ago) ; it is quite a tooth, measuring two inches
Jong and half as thick. The great Buddha in

52
bronze at Menioshata, Japan, if true to life,
would require such a tooth, I am sure. If you
come here in July, you can witness the great
annual procession had in connection with other
events in honor of Mr. Buddha the deceased.
The big wild elephant I saw in the forest tak
ing a bath, not near enough for me to get a
good picture, is my best memory of Kandy.
Elephants, snakes big and little, man-eaters,
tea, oranges, rubber and some other products
are counted among Ceylon's valuable assets
and attractiors.
There is a monsoon blowing and my steamer
for Calcutta sails to-morrow. Having enjoyed
the pangs from a typhoon I shall experience »
new joy.

CALCUTTA, INDIA
January 3, 1909
'"JPp'HE monsoon I referred to in my last letter
^^ made good and we had its company for
some time. The monsoon differs from a typhoon
in the wind performance chiefly. The latter is
more like the American tornado, it blows all
sorts of ways and does them all at once, and
the ship captains say that safety lies in running
away from them if it be possible, or to run
right into the centre and trust to the stability
of the ship. The monsoon is a hard, steady wind
from one direction, and if a choice is permitted
a head wind is the most comfortable. We had
the head wind, and if it was the most comfort
able I pray to be kept from the other sort
The Bay of Bengal, our water road to Cal
cutta, was a rough route and afforded nothing
in the way of pleasure. My cabin was on the
upper deck and my meals, such as I took, were
all served on the deck. Added to that charm
it was necessary to keep our port holes closed
at night in order that some of the bay would
not be our sleeping companion or bed fellow.
Each day's run brought us nearer the Hooghly
River, one of the mouths of the Ganges, which

54
meant smoother water. The run up the river
is a slow one, as the large steamers can run
only in daylight and when the tide is full. The
river is very muddy and reminds me of the
Missouri at home, but there is more than mud
in this water, and it carries much that was hu
man. Along the banks we see many industries,
most of them being large hemp mills, one of
the principal industries of India. Another one
is the goat skins and raw hides which are ex
ported in large quantities to America. The
brick and pottery works also figure to some ex
tent in the products of the country.
Calcutta is the capital of the Indian empire,
but there is talk of it being transferred to Del
hi, the ancient capital, but be that as it may,
this city is at present the centre of all the roy
alty and most of the trouble of the empire.
Every day we hear of efforts to dynamite the
trains supposed to carry some of the Eng
lish dignitaries, and we are wondering if per
chance we may get on one of those selected
trains. Calcutta is divided into two parts, one
is the modern, which is under the use of the
English who have, as in all colonial countries
of England, taken over a certain and very de
sirable section of the city and converted it into

55
a park where polo, cricket and other games are
enjoyed, while the poor native is pushed away
into conditions that are hard to describe. There
are temples of various kinds in the city and pe
culiar to the several religions and casts. The
sanitary conditions here, as in the strait settle
ments, are crude and far from being worthy of
even faint praise. The Zoo is full of wild ani
mals of all kinds, and real wild ones, not one is
missing. The museum too is well worth a visit.
Its collection of ancient and modern textiles,
pottery, and its mattings, are of unusual inter
est. After a night or two I got accustomed to
finding my bed protected by netting so tightly
tucked in all around it that it was hard to get
in, the reason being that it was necessary so
that creeping things could not molest me. The
creeping things are not dreams, but real flyers
and crawlers. One must put shoes on a table
on going to bed and be sure to shake them well
before using. All clothing should be hung
up and also well shaken before wearing.
It is only fair to keep in mind that England
has controlled India the short time of some
two hundred years or more and really has
not had time to do much in the way of

56
advancing the general improvement of the
people of the country. Some acquaintances
made along the way think I should read more
books and not rely on what I see and come in
contact with. As I go along I see how the native
is treated on the street and on the railroads and
my eyesight is good to see a school house if it
gets in my line of vision, and I have made an
effort to see schools especially, and some modern
sanitary conditions, but like Sam Weller I have
found my vision restricted, though no one has
accused me of not seeing other things.
I do not hesitate to say that England must
wake up or she will not hold her supposed place
in "the sun" much longer. The German people
are traveling over the country and they have
their eyes open, and they are not spending
money on whiskey and soda. I like my English
speaking people, but I am not blind to what is
coming in the commercial world if not in some
other way. I am not out to reform the age, but
only to see and observe and form some conclu
sions, many of which may prove wrong. At
Calcutta I engaged a Mohammed man to go with
me across India. Hassam was his name and
cleverness his nature. He spoke English well
enough to fill the bill. Three formed our party,

57
and the honorable, as Hassam named me, was
made the leader. My first duty was to impress
upon Hassam that my party was a different
sort than he had ever conducted, and this he
soon admitted. We agreed on his pay, which
included his third class fare back to Calcutta
from Bombay; then my task was to impress on
him that he would handle no money and that
one porter to each man at stopping places would
be a rule that would not be changed, and that
was not easy, for if the Hassams love anything
more than bossing a crowd of natives and hand
ing out master's money, I did not find it out.
Then, like the ladies, everywhere he must have
money to get some new clothing, but that, like
some other items, failed to move honorable.
The night before we left to cross India Hassam
told the other two that he must very early the
next morning go to the Mosque and offer a
sacrifice of a young kid and pray; they told
him that he must get permission, and if he got
it, to be sure and pray for them. Honorable
gave him permission, but declined his offer of a
prayer. I was not quite sure of the kind of
prayer that would go with the burning kid.
There are some very interesting day trips
around Calcutta, and we enjoyed some of them.

5«
The principal one is to Dargeling, from where
the great Himalaya Mountains are seen, but
the reports were that the weather conditions
were such that the journey would prove a
failure and, being no easy one, we gave it up.
The interesting things we read and hear
of the traveling servant who always sleeps at
your room door fade away when we know he
never sleeps there if he can find any other place.
The sleeping cars in India are crude affairs and
the traveler must carry bedding. The servant
makes the bed and he sleeps in a sort of closet
between the first and second class compartment.
The hotels in India never serve breakfast
before nine o'clock. "Chota Hazie," or early
tea, may be served in your room by your man.
The hotel will provide the meal but will not
serve it. Your baggage is delivered at your
hotel, but you must have it taken to and from
your room at your own expense, strictly up-to-
date methods.

BOMBAY, INDIA
January 15, 1909.
*tf HAVE been across India via the northern
|| provinces, a journey full of interest and
ended none too soon. India has been the text
for hundreds of years on which poems, sermons
and tragedies have been built, some of which
have been reasonably true, but all of which
have been far away from the straight lines of
accuracy. Our first stopping place after leaving Cal
cutta was Benares, the Mecca of the Hindoo,
where filth and gorgeous wealth are mingled,
where the worship of the sacred monkey and
the cow is indulged in to the extreme, where
gold covers the domes of the temples and pov
erty is close companion to the worshipers. To
Benares come the living to wash themselves in
the waters of the Ganges, and where the dead
are brought to be burned on its banks. The
fires of the burning ghats are seldom out, so
continually are the bodies of the dead being
brought there. Wood is expensive, and the
poor at times are unable to obtain a sufficient
supply to keep the fire going long enough to
completely burn the body, and of course the

6o
remains, whether ashes or bones, go down in
the river where hundreds are bathing. To
rightly see this ceremony one should, as I did,
spend some time on a house boat going back
and forth. The burning ghats, the many peo
ple bathing in the river, the watchers at the
fires, the fishermen securing their catch, and
the women carrying on their heads jars of wa
ter taken from among the bathers, which is to
be used for domestic purposes in their homes,
offer a varied line of thought and speculation.
On the sight-seeing boat with me were two fel
low travelers who, like myself, looked upon
the picture with interest. At our breakfast the
following morning, while they were eating their
fish with expressed enjoyment, I asked them if
they recalled seeing the fishermen on the river
as we passed them in our boat. It was singular
how rapidly they lost their interest in their fish
breakfast. The hotels in India, outside of one in Bom
bay, are not entitled to much, if any, commen
dation. We were booked to leave Benares in
the forenoon, our table waiter was informed,
and when breakfast had been served he waited
upon us to inform us that he would not be on
duty when we were to leave and requested his tip

6f
therl. When we were ready to leave I found
lined up several persons in an attitude of ex
pectancy. Calling Hassam, I asked the reason
of such attendance, and I learned that each one
expected some free gift. One was the servant
who made our beds, another took care of out
lamps, another swept our rooms, another
brought our hot water, and so on for the sixth,
and he, Hassam said, Was the watchman. I
told Hassam that I refused to recognize any
claims of the watchman.
The many temples at Benares include a va
riety of the needs of the devout people. The
two most expensive and dirty are the ones to
the sacred cows and monkeys. While the cow
temple's domes are covered with gold, the floors
are similar to any old-fashioned farm cow barn
in the back woods. Our worship there was
short. The other is called the sacred monkey
temple. I got a good snap shot of the monkeys
at the entrance and lost my curiosity very
promptly to see inside.
From Benares to Lucknow is a daylight trip
of five hours, through a level and dusty coun
try. At the several stopping places we enjoy
ed seeing the natives who come to the stations
to see the train arrive and perhaps greet some

6*
friends. The native of India travels j all trains
are crowded with the low fare passengers, and
we conclude that money is not so scarce aa
much of our reading leads us to believe About
as many natives travel in first class cars as do
the English in England. From the car window
We see camels, monkeys and elephants.
Lucknow and Cawnpore are best known by
their connection with the Sepoy rebellion, of
which we are reminded at every turn. All
along the way we come in contact with the
Caste among the people, which forbids one class
eating of the same food or drinking of the same
water, nor must one touch the other; different,
but no less to be regretted, is the treatment
observed among the passengers in the first class
railway coaches. At one place on the road some
natives of India, well dressed and well manner
ed, entered the car we were in with some Eng
lish people. At once there was a protest on
the part of the English against them coming in.
They came, however, and proved to be the bet
ter mannered of the two classes. That the In
dian people do not love the English is in evi
dence everywhere and casual observation estab
lishes no reason why they should. England's
domination will not be submitted to for long.

03
Agfa is the one place where the travelef
Will forget all discomforts. There is the won
derful Taj-Mahl, the greatest monument ever
built to a human being, and that being a wc
man. My first sight of it was about midnight
in the full of the moon. The train arrived late
and sending my baggage on to the hotel I di
rected Hassam to go first to the Taj, so that
we might get a moonlight view. There are
places and buildings that must be seen to give
one any real impression, and of all such the Taj
is the most conspicuous example to me*
Whether a moonlight or a sunlight view is pre-*
ferable will remain a mooted point, for it is
beautiful seen either way, but to me the night
view is the most impressive. In all my travels
there is nothing so wonderfully beautiful as the'
Taj. Where is the nation under which such a
structure Was created? Why does that nation
not exist and her people occupy some exalted
or advanced position in the world?
At Delhi there are ruins of splendid palaces
that surpass all heretofore seen. These show
evidence of the former riches of the rulers.
The decorations and interior workmanship,
carving and inlaid work, prove that master"
minds and hands wrought wonders in those faf

64
off days. The many wars of nations against
nations have left only that which could not be
carried away. Where precious stones formed
much of the wall decorations we now see only
the holes. The richest throne of all the world,
the peacock throne, valued at twenty million
dollars, was carried away by the Persians, and
now we see only the marble platform on which
it stood. Departed greatness is evidenced by
the ruins which are now fortunately being pre
served and in a moderate way restored. That
the people are not being educated and uplifted
is a pitiful fact.
At Jeypore we had a Very interesting time.
That city is the capital of a province, ruled by
a native, and to his credit be it stated that the
streets are wide and reasonably clean, and many
modern benefits provided for the general good.
He maintains a splendid palace and a large ha
ram which I did not visit, though I came rather
near doing so before Hassam stopped me. His
stables were important, including hundreds of
horses and a number of elephants, including
two fighting ones. His collection of wild ani
mals other than elephants was almost a full zoo.
A tiger only three months in captivity was the
latest and most important item. The elephant

65
Used by the ladies of the royal family was a
picture. It was most gorgeously painted in a
Variety of colors. From here I took my first
and only ride on an elephant — the transporta
tion line out to the old city of Amber some
eight miles away. I reached my seat by means
of a ladder, and only when the ladder is re
moved do you realize how far up you are and
wonder what you will do if you want to get off
on the way. The driver is away below you,
seated on the beast's head. The elephant trav
els like a pacing horse and gives you the mo
tion of a rolling ship. Along the road wild
monkeys and birds of paradise are seen in great
numbers, the monkeys following in a most
friendly and curious manner.
The street scenes through India are many
and interesting. Aside from the dirty naked
children and sometimes people, you have the
dancers, whose performance is better than an
American Indian dance; the musicians who are
always picturesque, if not musical, in costumes
peculiar to the caste of each musician. How
they divide the money collected I do not under
stand, unless money differs from food and drink
•and cannot be contaminated by the touch of
another caste. Sewing machines seem out of

66
place where so little clothing is worn, and that
little resembling a winding sheet held in place
by will power or good luck.
At Delhi, while being guided by our man
Hassam (who directed the driver) among thef
mosques, monuments and temples, my French
companion, who- was both witty and sarcastic,
remarked : "Mr. Honor, I had the impression
that we were to see India and that there were
here and there some native sections to the
cities." In the best native language I could
command I directed Hassam to take us into the
principal native street. It was a street so nar
row that only in the forenoon is driving on it
permitted. During the afternoon passing on
foot is difficult. A sacred cow only has the
right of way. My friend, seeing a sewing ma
chine in a shop, refused to believe we were in
a native section until I directed his attention
to a woman with a big silver ring connecting
her nose and ear, a pendant of pearls hanging
from the ring and a silver jewelry store hang
ing from each ear, while from her feet up to
where garters are sometimes worn, there were
bands of gold and silver a plenty. "Well," said
my friend, "I see all that and more too, but
sewing machines are presumed to be used for"

PHOTO BV AUTHOR
STREET MUSICIANS OF DELHI. INDIA

67
fcriaking clothes, but she nor others on the street
have any on." The street on both sides was
lined with small shops, the finest of brass, sil
ver and ivory work going on in the midst of
squalor and dirt not to be described. Further
on my friend broke out again, saying: "What
is that I smell, attar of roses? No Sir, it ought
to be roses, but it isn't. Well, I don't smell it
so much as I taste it. Can't we get out of
here?" No Sir, we are seeing and tasting India.
This street is four miles long, too narrow to
turn around in, and just as far to go back as to
go on, and we can't hurry for two reasons: one,
tbe horses are no good, the other, we might run
over a child or a sacred bull.
"Well, stop and let us see that handsome
wood-carving." "But that isn't wood-carving, it's a quarter
•of lamb covered with flies. "
Bombay is a Mecca for the traveler, where
the modern hotel with up-to-date service is a
most refreshing change, and where we sing on
arrival as best we can, "Praise God from whom
all blessings flow. " In the old native section
•of the city there are wonders galore in build
ings that draw one many times and each time

6§
afford some new pleasure and offer some flew"
charm. The attractive sail over the harbor to
Elephanta Island is one of many excursions.
But most interesting of all, perhaps, is the
Tower of Silence, the cemetery of the Parsees.
It is a well kept park in which are the great
towers on top of which the dead are placed
nude. Here among the flowers, overlooking
the Arabian Sea, these dead are left to the vol-
tures that in a few moments leave nothing but
the bones, which fall through the grating far
below into a crypt open to the sun and air to be
soon dissolved into dust.

CAIRO, EGYPT
January 26, 1909.
MHEN leaving Bombay on the 16th I
was weary of the loin cloth and tired
of naked skins and the loosely fastened winding
sheets that threatened to drop off. With the
dread of fever and plague and the rumors of
an uprising of the natives vs. the English hang
ing over one, the receding city of Bombay made
a satisfying picture as our ship faced the west,
for I was glad to be on board and started for
western parts. The getting away from India
had a pleasing hope and the expected ship a
promise of anticipated pleasure, but would we
pass the medical inspector who sat at the en
trance of the dock through which we had to
pass one at a time to get on board ship? but
first the porters, who were to carry our bags
and bundles, must be examined and, if passed,
be stamped on their arms, and then they wait
just inside. Our good-byes are then said, and
we enter the office alone. To hear him say,
"You are O K, sir, pass along," was the most
charming expression I had heard for some
days. Bunyan's Pilgrim when he dropped his
load was no happier than I when I started for

70
the steamer anchored out in the harbor.
A nine days' journey by sea to Port Said
offers a varied experience. The first leg of the
run was to Aden, five days across the Arabian
Sea; our geography gets adjusted when we
realize the size of this and the Red Sea. To
set foot on Arabia was to be a new country
visited and to see a people and a city different
from all so far seen, but would we be allowed
to land ?
The run was a lonely one, and we saw but
two ships and passed near a few islands, the
principal one being the Apostles, on which is a
large light house, where the lonely conditions
are such that, notwithstanding the fact that the
keepers are changed frequently, the record of
suicides is not small. We had been warned to
expect very hot weather, but we had it cool
and pleasant. On the morning of the fourth
day out, after a cooling rain, it was my pleas
ure to see the Southern Cross at three o'clock.
It was clear and made a beautiful picture.
Arriving at Aden we all made ready to land,
and I planned for snap shots to include street
scenes, buildings and people, but the yellow
flag did not come down and we did not land.
We had come from plague-stricken India, and

7'
though there were no cases on the ship, we
were obliged to satisfy our curiosity and inter
est looking over the ship's rails and get what
excitement we could by watching some of the
crew under the direction of the doctor carry on
board a man who had come from Africa, on a
connecting ship, where he had been hunting
big game and had come off second best in his
fight with a big lion. He had been badly bit
ten and clawed and the chances of his reaching
England were not promising.
Some of our fellow passengers were booked
for Africa, and Aden was the point of transfer;
these had a short time of serious trouble but
finally were allowed to go ashore, and we were
off for the Red Sea end of our run, where we
had been warned to expect burning winds and
heated sands from off the shores of the desert.
I told the captain of the many warnings I had
received. He replied that in the many years
he had been sailing the Red Sea he had not
experienced the discomforts I had related to
him, but of course ship captains are not pre
sumed to know much, if anything, about winds
and weather; it is the traveler who puts faith in
everything heard and told has the facts. My
diary records that the first day out the weather

72
got cooler, and the second day I had my trunk
brought to my room so that I could change to
warmer clothing, and once more my claim that
the best place to get real information is from
the one who knows was proven; others may
feel the hot winds and the sand, but we did not.
We were not so long getting into Egypt as the
children of Israel were getting out, but we had
our troubles. We tried to locate the place
where they crossed, but failed, and even the
captain did not know. I suggested that he fix
on a place and in the future point it out. We
passengers were more interested in a place
named Moses Wells, located about seven miles
from Suez, where a fumigating plant is run by
the government and plague victims are sent.
Approaching Suez we of course watched the
casting of the lead and the preparations going
on for our stop there, while the port doctor
would inspect the ship and examine the passen
gers. The yellow flag is run up, and we as
semble in the cabin, and as our name is called
present our person to the doctor, whose exam
ination is more than a form. After a suspense
of over two hours we see the flag come down
and learn that our ship, having important mail
aboard, is to have the right of way through the

73
canal. The novelty of sailing in a big ditch cut
through a desert is all there is to it. It is thirty
feet deep and one hundred and thirty feet wide.
Constant dredging keeps the depth sufficient
for the large vessels. That one may pass the
other it is necessary for one to tie up to the
bank and wait. There is no vegetation, no
thing but shifting sand and slow moving cara
vans of camels and their attendants, the men
of the desert, to see. The speed limit of seven
miles per hour is slow going, and we are part
of a day and one night passing through. Early
on the morning of the fourth day from Aden
we anchor at Port Said, said to be the wicked
est city of the world. Be that as it may, it
certainly is a most unattractive one. It being the
western end of the canal and the coaling place
for all ships, and where the mail from the far
east is transferred to smaller ships of great
speed and sent off to Brindisi, Italy, and thence
across to England, it is a busy, dirty place.
After breakfast we are landed and start on
our way to Cairo, passing on our way to the
train through the custom and the health inspec
tion. We see the furnace that is heated to
seven times into which our property must
go if the health officers suspect us of carrying

74
plague germs, but we are a healthy lot and are
quickly passed. The rail journey takes us back
along the canal bank to Ismalie, which place
we had passed during the night on steamer,
so that we had a completed view of the entire
length of the canal.
The arriving at Cairo is always novel and
different from any place in the world, and
though it was my second experience, it was as
if it were my first. Many changes are in evi
dence. The trolley car and the automobile
have replaced the camel and the donkey in
many places in the city, but enough of them
remain to keep the picturesque Cairo alive.
We are in time to witness a religious ceremony
in connection with the anniversary of the death
of Hassen and Hosen, the two nephews of Mo
hammed who were killed in battle by Persians.
In Constantinople, and especially in Mecca,
this occasion is carried out with fearful acts of
cruelty. Here it is bad enough, but the author
ities have placed restrictions on it. As explain
ed to me it appears that the Persians regret
the death of the two men and at this cere
mony some volunteer to punish themselves in a
most cruel manner in expiation. To witness
the procession we secured the service of a big

75
strong English-speaking dragoman and his
three donkeys to take us to old Moski Street
and find for us a safe place from where we
might see. In a native hotel on the principal
corner of the street on the third floor among a
lot of natives, but carefully guarded by our big
protector, we looked down on the whole show
so far as it took place on the street. Moski
Street at all times is crowded, and this night
the people were packed in like sardines. While
waiting for the procession we were interested
in watching the police manage the crowd.
From our corner up six blocks no one was al
lowed to pass, so that from there down the
street was a mass of humanity swaying back
and forth like the waves on the sea shore, and
held in control by fourteen fine looking police
men mounted on fine Arabian horses. These
horses were almost human in their conduct.
Back among the crowd were officers on foot
armed with swords, who were kept more than
busy, but the tact and patience of the men and
horses at the head of the line was something I
have never heretofore witnessed.
The line of the procession was down this
street to a mosque around our corner. At a
chapel from where the line started there was a

76
preliminary ceremony, during which two or
more goats were sacrificed. The special par
ticipants cut their foreheads so that blood runs
down over their faces, and a shaved spot on
their heads is hacked and covered with blood.
Following the lamp bearers come these men,
armed with flat swords, with which they beat and
cut themselves along the line of march ; following
these come the priests, then come two horses
with trappings such as Hassen and Hosen used,
and up to this year two young men rode the
horses and hacked themselves. Next came
fully one hundred men who, led by a fanatic,
had worked themselves into a frenzy and were
beating their bodies with chains. Behind them
came men dressed in white beating their bo
dies, bleeding from cuts on heads and faces and
held in restraint, somewhat, by others accom
panying them. Along the line of the curb
march men carrying torches of burning wood,
making the entire thing a most grotesque and
horrible affair.
Getting out and back to our donkeys was a
task accomplished only by our guide's person
ality. My donkey, responding to some antics
of my boy, stumbled and fell, causing a scram
bling match in which I was chief actor for a

11
time, and then the donkey boy got his innings'
with his hurts as bad as mine, though not in
the same place. No harm resulted, and the
evening's pleasure was completed. Of course
we would better have been at a prayer meeting,
but such a solemn celebration is only seen once
a year and only in the far east. Then too,
when one is away from home quieting rather
than gay gatherings are looked for and indulge
ed in.

LfrXOR, EGYPf
February 20, 1909.
CAIRO is not a place to be rushed, there is
too much to see, to study and ponder ovef
to justify haste. Old Moski Street with the
many little narrow side streets, where only pe»
destrians may or can go, offers interests that
will afford many days' enjoyment. Essence
Street, where only extracts of perfumes are
Sold, is one of the most interesting of the many
lines of business, and only those who crowd
sight seeing for a record fail to "trade." The
pleasure is in the bargaining; to pay a dollar
for a bottle of extract which can be had for a
quarter is devoid of all the charm that comes
from trading. The Jewelry Street and the
Fez or Hat Street, in fact each street has its
own line of business and experience for the
traveler. The larger business houses, where
rugs and embroideries are sold, are where the
tourists head for first, and where of course com
petition is active. The informed buyer goes
early or late, when the trade is slow, and then
the best things are seen and best bargains are
secured. The arrival of every passengef
steamer at Alexandria or Port Said is announc-

PHOTO B^ AUTHOR
AT THE FEET OF RAMESES II.

n
fcd ahead, and the dealers are alert and ready
for the suckers who are led around by profes
sional guides to selected places.
The citadel, the highest place in Cairo, is in
situation the best place to See over the city and
surrounding country. The mosque within its
bounds — it is now an army post — is one of the
finest of Cairo, but not oldest. It is the Ala
baster Mosque, and the abundance of alabaster
in its construction and ornamentation explains
the reason for its name.
The Museum of Cairo, one of the greatest
of the world, cannot be done in one day, though
many do it in an hour. An hour is too short
for even a call on old Seti I., who receives you
in his robes of mummy cloth, which are well
preserved, his face is rather quaint and his eyes
are dim, but he reclines peacefully in his glass
case and pays little heed to your comments
upon his reign of thousands of years ago.
The great bridge over the Nile across which
come the great caravans from across the desert
bringing to the city the products of the coun
try, affords the best of all places to study the
people and their customs. At the gate of cus
toms thorough examination is made and receipts
from duties levied collected before passage ovef

So
the bridge is permitted. Perhaps it is strictly
democratic doctrine, tariff for revenue only,
but it is tariff just the same. Across this bridge
also go the crowds to the pyramids. We hear
much comment over the intrusion of the trolley
Car, but the camel and the antiquated coach
may be picturesque, but the trolley gets you
there, and when there you may indulge extra
vagantly in camel riding. No health depart
ment of modern times has declared the inside
of the great Cheops to be clean, but germs and
microbes scare us only at home, where our
street cleaners dress in white and we avoid the
unclean. The hands, face and clothing of the
dragoman who boosts and pulls you up the
pyramid may be free from danger of the dread
ed bug, but appearances are against it. The
wonderful air of Egypt, perhaps, is security
against all health dangers. Outside of Cairo
there are modern resorts and hotels. At Hel-
leopolis and HeloUan, especially the latter, no
better hotels are found ; the situation of the
hotel is high for Egypt on the Nile, and the
views from its broad porches carry one many
miles over the desert. It is an oasis in the
desert. The cool, dry air is life-giving. Twelve

8i
pyramids are seen lifting their heads above the
sand. The sun sets, and the after glows are
magnificent. On a moonlight night a walk of
a mile will take you where nothing is seen but
desert and a small caravan of camels headed off
into the nowhere, the driver seated on the leader
fast asleep, rocking in keeping with the move
ment of the camel. There is no road, and the
wind constantly shifts whatever trail there may
have been. Then there is the trip up the Nile,
among the things of thousands of years ago
perpetuated by temples and tombs uncovered
by man in search of the records of the past.
Next to securing one's passage and room on the
boat the most important thing is a ticket of ad
mission to the antiquities, which costs five dol
lars and must be presented at every entrance
or, as the dragoman daily reminds you, "no
ticket no in."
The steamboat Puritan I selected and se
cured a good room to myself. A Nile passen
ger boat is a very imposing thing. There is
very little of it under water, as it draws but
four feet, but considerable above water, there
being three decks and the pilot deck. Among
other things on the lower deck is the dining room.
The two upper decks are for sleeping and social

§2
purposes A good sized sitting room with all
open fire is on one. Everything about the
boats is clean and comfortable. The going is
slow and stops are quite frequent in order to
allow visits to the antiquities which, with one
or two exceptions, are distant from the land
ings five to fifteen miles; these trips are made
on donkeys. Our first stop was at Bedrechin,
from where we went to Sakkara, stopping at
old Memphis which was a great city in Abra
ham's time. The two great statues of Rameses
that stood at the entrance of the great temple
in his day are all that remain of that time. One
is within the enclosure to which our tickets ad
mit us, the other reclines on the sands. It was
our first sight of the many we were to see of
enormous statues. On our way we passed the
Step- pyramid, the tomb of Zozen of the third
dynasty, one of the oldest — some claim the
oldest — known. It is in poor condition, built
of soft stone and not visited. It stands alone
in the great desert. Excavators were at work
and will no doubt find temples and records of
value in establishing early history. From near
it are seen miles away the great Gizeh pyramids
and the high towers in Cairo. The tomb ai
Apis, the sacred bulls of the god Ptah, is es-

PHOTO BY AUTHOR
CLEOPATRA AND HER SON
TEMPLE A'l DENDERAH

83
pecially interesting because of its purpose. It
is a gallery in solid rock, 1400 feet long, with
mourning chambers on each side. The bulls
were prepared and buried there in the same
Way as the kings, but no remains have been
secured. The sarcophagus measured each in
size 13 feet long, 7 feet wide and n feet high.
How were they taken into the tomb?
The finest tomb yet uncovered is the one of
Nastaba of Ti, who was the royal architect.
His full biography is written in mural relief
and well preserved; this record goes back four
thousand years.
This first day's donkey ride of fifteen miles
was rather trying. The boats do not run at
night, tbe river is shallow and the channel very
twisting. At a quiet place away from the town
the boat is made fast; a picturesque native of
ficer, with his long gun as symbol of authority,
squats on the bank and keeps watch while all
¦sleep. The pilot pulls curtains around the pilot
quarters, the side curtains around the boat are
let down, and our boat looks like a ghost in
white when the night is upon it. At dinner
each evening our dragoman comes in decked
out in his robes. Solomon in all his glory may
liave been pleasing to look upon, but I venture

*4
to say our man was a good second, tinting
our trip of six hundred miles in distance and
two weeks in time he seldom appeared in the
same costume for body or head. When he fin
ished his statement of what we would see the
following day, he ended each time with the
statement; "Donkey e on the spot, side saddle'
for the ladies and saddle for the gentlemen ; no
ticket, no in." He was obliged to walk about
the tables so that all could see his raiment. He
explained that his hobby was collecting gar
ments. He dressed as a chief of some tribe. If
was tlie night he came in dressed as a Bedouin
that he closed his talk with: "no donkeys on
the spot to morrow, we walk, but remember,.
no ticket no in "
At this season the Nile is falling and the
fellahs (the farmers) are working hard irrigat
ing the growing crops. The sakkia, the Persian-
water wheel, is kept going day and night. The
groaning of the old wooden wheels-, never oiled,
the only noise we hear as we lay tied to the
bank, is a dreary one to go to sleep by. At
day- break the boat is. off, and by the time*
breakfast is over our stopping place is reached,
the donkeys are on the spot and the rush is
made for them. There are at all times some

85
who want to be first and head the procession ;
some of us who have traveled before are con
tent to hold back and generally get the best
donkeys and are sure to keep out of the dust.
The dragoman must keep behind, and as no
gates are opened until he appears, the strag
glers have the better of it.
At Assouit, the city of the wolf, we see the
first great dam across the Nile, one of the sys
tem for holding back the water so that in the
dry season there may be sufficient for the
needed irrigation. Here also are schools car
ried on by the United Presbyterian Church of
America, but perhaps the attraction, to the la
dies at least, are the tulle shawls, in the pur
chase of which they very soon get active and
of course drive the prices away up; so absorbed
did the ladies on our boat get that a man pas
senger secured a fine embroidered scarf at such
a bargain that he later had to fight to keep it.
From Assouit the ride is back into the Libyan
hills to a more modern temple, some three
thousand years old, but well worth seeing, and
from it a panoramic view of the Nile, the val
ley, the large city and the Arabian mountains
is had that surpasses any other along the route.
Dendera, one of the most ancient and fam-

86
ous cities of Egypt, is in some respects the
most pleasing place. The great temple of Ha-
thor, the goddess of joy and love, is four miles
from the landing. The ride there is by don
key power, inspired by the yell and whip of the
donkey boy, through highly cultivated fields
and across a desert hot and dusty. The pres
ent temple, built in the first century B. C. ,
stands on the site of one built in the twelfth
dynasty. It is in fine condition, especially as
to the sculpture and frescoes, which for the
most part represent the many ways of bringing
and presenting gifts to the gods. Local deities
are depicted bringing their gifts from Upper
and Lower Egypt, Dendera being at the divid
ing line between the two parts. The crypts
there are interesting, but one is sufficient to in
spect. It was reached by a long, narrow and
winding stone stairway; one-half way down an
opening not four feet square had to be negoti
ated, and there the fun started. It was down
on all fours with a backing movement, and then
a turn about, lighted candles the only illumina
tion except some fiery language. The air was
bad and some one suggested bats and things;
but there was no retreating, because others
were coming. Some one calls, "Is it worth

PHOTO BY AUTHOR
ENTRANCE TO TEMPLE AT DENDERAH
WAITING FOR DRAGOMAN

87
while?" Answer, "Yes, the frescoes are fine
and carvings beautiful. " How we like to get
others into our troubles. Then a yell, "bats!"
and a scramble started. Up on the roof the
air was better and the view finer. On the rear
wall among the carved figures is one of Cleo
patra and her son. The work is rather crude
and Cleopatra is represented in full life stand
ing, with very little on in the way of clothing.
There is no evidence in form or position that
confirms the correctness of any modern repre
sentation of her charming person.

ASSOUAN, EGYPT
February 25th, 1909.
J^ROM Dendera we move on, passing many
Jl Nile boats, called by some the butterfly
boats, loaded with sugar-cane on way to the
mills. This is one of the great industries of
the country. The hill sides are mountains of
rock where quarries are open and from where
the stone is sent by boat to Cairo. The many
and picturesque villages along the river are
mostly houses of sun dried mud brick. We
pass the Khedive in his private yacht and two
other boats carrying his party. He has been
attending the opening of a new barrage. Sal
utes are exchanged, and we pass along.
Along the river banks the shaduffs, which
are the real Egyptian irrigating system, are
kept at full working capacity. The water is
raised from the river by a relay of buckets.
The power to lift the water is very similar to
our old-fashioned well sweep; the bucket,
which is made of leather, is tied to tbe small
end ot a long pole which swings from a cross
piece; on the big end a big chunk of mud is
fastened, heavy enough to lift the full bucket
to the required height, where it is emptied into

HOTO BY AUTHOR
Till-'. AUTHOR OX WAY 'I O THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS

89
the ditch and so sent on its irrigating way.
Kom-Om-Bo, the smiling temple, is on the
river's bank, twenty feet above the stream.
The carved figures have smiling faces. The
great Rameses is seated on his throne, holding
prisoners by cords and directing the cutting off
of their heads, looking as if he was having the
time of his life. The temple ruins show its one
time magnificence.
Luxor and Karnak are the temples most
told of and are in their present ruined condition
things of grandeur. The sunset seen from
Luxor, while wandering among its massive col
umns and looking over the Nile and across the
desert, is a picture that will never be forgotten ;
neither pen nor brush has, and never will, con
vey a satisfactory picture of the wonderful
sight, and from the top of Karnak by moonlight
the picture over the river and on the desert far
off to the hills is a fit companion for the sunset
from Luxor. The moonlight among the great
isles of Karnak gives one a better impression
of its former grandeur than by sunlight. There
is considerable restoration work going on in
these two grand temples.
Especially interesting are the Tombs of the
Kings away up in the Libyan hills. The trip

9o
there is an all day one. Early in the morning
we are taken across the Nile in a primitive
ferry and then by donkey over the desert and up
on the mountain. These tombs are in the side
of the mountain, well up from what is now the
road, and of course were dug there and used,
so that the enemy of the nation might not,
easily at least, find or disturb them. The road
up the King's Valley is a steep, dry and dusty
one, and a fit place to be called the valley of
the dry bones. Some of the tombs have been
uncovered and explored and can now be visited.
It seemed queer to have the guide, as he open
ed the gate, turn the switch and light up the
tomb by electric light. We were in the tombs
of Rameses II. , Seti I., whose mummy is in the
Cairo museum, and Amenhotep II., whose
mummy body lies quietly in his great coffin
where it was placed so many years ago, and in
a chamber next to his are those of three of the
women of his house; all of these have been
there for four thousand years. In tomb ten our
party of forty enjoyed a splendid lunch which
was supplied by the steamboat company and
sent ahead of us on camels. The fact that so
many persons could be served at one long table
gives a very good impression of the size of the

9i
tombs. To see the tools that were used to dig
these places and the length of time necessary,
for it could not be long, makes us smile when
we read about the stupendous engineering re
quired to dig holes under tbe Hudson. The
writings on the walls of these tombs in pictures
and characters are well preserved and tell the
story of the life in detail of the occupants.
Among the animals pictured on the temple
and tomb walls we saw no camels and could not
account for it until we learned that the camel
came into Egypt with the Arab only two thou
sand years ago — just day before yesterday, as
it were.
This city, Assouan, is the old Bible city of
Syene. It marks the southerly line of Egypt
and the northerly line of Nubia, and is a large
business point. Smaller boats run from here
up the Nile, getting over the cataracts through
the locks. It is the resting place for tourists,
who are increasing in numbers each year.
There are several good hotels, large and mod
ern. Perhaps the most comfortable one is on
Elephanta Island, facing Assouan. The island
got its name from the fact that the Egyptian
first saw the elephant there. It was brought
from lower Nubia. The real Egyptians are the

92
fellah, the tillers of the soil, the peasant who
earns his bread by hard work.
From Assouan we go to the great dam and
by boats called "feluccas" are taken over the
great reservoir to the grandest of all temples,
on the island of Philea, the temple of Isis. It
is now one-half submerged, and when the work
now under way of building the dam thirty feet
higher is completed, the temple will be entirely
covered and hidden from sight. It seems a
pity, but conserving the waters of the great
river and providing for supply for irrigation
when most needed is accomplishing the greatest
good for the many and so providing against
shortage of crops and possibly famine. From
here I made the return journey to Cairo by rail,
an all night ride. On this road I had my only
experience with a sand storm. It is an Amer
ican blizzard with sand in place of snow; dur
ing such a storm, if near the river, no boats can
run, and they are at times held up for several
days. After my experiences thus far I find it diffi
cult to accept the doctrine that all men are
brothers, especially when recalling incidents
among the natives of India and the Arab of
Egypt. I am not unmindful of the fact that

PHOTO BY /UTHOR

LUNCHING IN TOMB 10

9i

Somewhere in the Bible it is said that if we hate'
our brother we commit murder in our heart.
Perhaps the quotation is not strictly correct,
but you know the parsons nowadays tell us
more how to vote and how bad corporations are
rather than expounding Scripture, and we do
get rusty on Bible teachings. I have commit
ted murder so many times during the past
months that I can only rely upon the Bible be
ing like our Constitution — elastic. Perhaps I
should net blame the Arab for wanting "back
shish" for looking at me, but when one of those
young women with large, luminous eyes, with
a dirty veil covering her face from the nose
down, twinkles at you and then demands "back
shish," you do feel sort of imposed on; but think
of a storekeeper selling his own goods to you
after the usual dicker over the price and get
ting payment, who then appeals for "back
shish." He was a red-headed Arab— unusual
one — I wanted an article of his own manufac
ture, my price for it was just one- third of his
demand, and my time was limited to one hour
*— sometime the deal runs over two days at inter
vals between sight-seeing; a buyer who fails to
dicker is regarded easy. This man had to pray
over it, he said, for I presume the aid to do me,

94
as of course he did, although my figure pre
vailed. He followed me for a long distance,
leaving bis shop, imploring me for "backshish,'1
falling as low in his demand to one piaster, five
cents. Walking in a park one day I stopped at
some running water to remove some soil, and
at once from nowhere seemingly appeared two
Arabs asking "backshish." I will carry with
me from Egypt among the many things the
Sad, tired, hopeless look of the overworked,
poorly rewarded Fellahan, the real Egyptian,
Who for years has been overtaxed, and yet now
under less heavy burdens finds nothing to give
him hope of much joy in this world. A com
panion to him in his woe is the great ugly but
patient fellow-toiler, the camel, which, as it
kneels to receive its load, gives vent to a groan
that is pitiful enough to melt the heart of an
Arab, if he had one. Then as it regains its
feet a moan is heard, which is a combination
of rage and sadness, expressive, I am sure, of
its failure to speak, for when you look into its
eyes that are more human than those of any
other animal, you cannot but feel that it should
talk. I was riding on one when I heard a
gurgling sound like water boiling over in a big
boiler. To my startled inquiry I was told the

PHOTO BY AUTHOR
WAITING FOR THE FERRY AT LUXOR

95
Camel Was taking a drink, pumping it from its
own reservoir or tank. It is a long-suffering,
patient animal, but does not always submit.
Woe to the person it bites, for it is both severe
and poisonous. A comical picture is a camel
and a donkey hitched to a plow, but the real
beauty show in the animal line is a water buf
falo and a camel hitched to a cart. But the
climax comes when you see this great, awk
ward beast blindfolded, harnessed to a Persian
Water wheel, going the restricted rounds with
his stately steppings taking him, as he no doubt
thinks, off into the desert.

AVIGNON, FRANCE
March 14, 1909.
HT this place one does not get back iri
history much beyond 1 A. D. , but the old
and the new mingle so attractively that enjoy
ment and comfort go hand in hand. The
Popes of old, when forced to leave Rome, se
lected a place for safety and attractive sur
roundings, and here they found both. From
the garden of the Pope's palace, situated on a
high rock similar to the Castle Rock of Edin-
boro, one enjoys a View over a wide stretch of
country embracing river, valley and mountain
that seems, when one is enjoying it, to surpass
almost any similar nature picture. In situation
against assault in early days it appears to be as
safe as the Edinboro stronghold and has the
added beauty of the river at its base, over
Which ancient bridges are yet well preserved.
The city is very interesting; the streets are
narrow and seldom straight, but are clean The
water courses drawn from the river run through
the city, carrying the water power for many
manufacturing plants.
The great Palace of the Popes is now used
as a barracks, but is well preserved and is full

97
of interest to the visitor, who is guided through
by the person in charge, who explains in a
most interesting way the history of the palace
in its early use; along side stands the great
cathedral, which contains some great and
splendid pictures by the old masters.
Aries is another interesting city to visit.
It dates far back in history and has many re
mains of early Roman occupancy. The church
¦of St. Trophine, founded in 606, is a fine ex
ample of the Roman architecture, the cloisters
especially being unusually fine; then too, the
¦splendid ruins of its colosseum and the Roman
theatre, the first not so large as in Rome, but
suggestive of a large population in days of long
ago, its seating capacity being about 30,000.
A very interesting item in connection with
Aries is the fact that the people do not marry
among outsiders, and the women are noted for
their great beauty, which is impressed upon the
Visitor who observes.
I came from Egypt to Marsaille by ship
touch larger than the ones going to Brendisi,
Italy. The latter are built for speed so that
the royal mails from the far east may be rush
ed from Port Said across the continent to Lon
don. Only travelers who are seasoned to all

sorts of motions of a ship care to cross in that
way, as time is the essence of the mail contract
and no concern is considered for passengers'
comfort. King Neptune has always kept track
of my movements on the sea and has never fail
ed to work up his Worst commotion when I ven
ture on his domain, so that I find it wise to se
lect the largest ships to travel in.
Marsaille has many points of interest aside
from being a good point to start from for many
places well worth seeing. The Chateau of
Monto Christo in the harbor, and the church of
the Notre Dame high up on the hill, and the
Zoological Garden are among the sights of the
city. Its harbor will accommodate over 1200
vessels and is the first seaport of France and of
the Mediterranean. The old part of the city
occupies the site of ancient Greek Massilia. It
boasts of having some of the finest streets in
Europe, one of which is the Rue de Rome, an
other the Promenade due Prado, leading out to
the Corniche road.
Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Mentone each
have much to attract the traveler. At Nice"
perhaps one may visit places along the Riviera
more conveniently. Everybody goes to Monte
Carlo, the beautiful garden spot of southern

99
Europe, where, pleasure and madness are close
companions. The first you experience when
wandering about the more than beautiful gar
dens, while the last you find in various forms
within the walls of perhaps the most beautiful
gambling mansion of the world. Here one may
study with interest the personality of the many
who make haste to be rich, the great majority
of whom fall to the snare ; some of course win,
otherwise the place could not continue. I tried
it, of course, and having a moderate success
went out to see the flowers and did not return.

ROME, ITALY
April 8th, 1909.
^'HE trip from Nice proved to be, as 1 eJJ-
\^ pected, a very pleasing one. I made it
by rail, distance 138 miles, in time ten hours.
not very fast going; custom house inspections
and change of trains at the border used up
some time, but at best the train was a slow one.
One- third of the distance is through tunnels
under the mountains, which come down to the
sea; the road all of the way follows the shore*
of the sea, and when tunnels do not shut off the
view, the ride is very interesting. The Italian
Riviera is fully as picturesque as that of France
and more snow is seen upon the mountains.
Our train was full of German tourists, who are
the great traveling public in the far east and in
southern France and Italy. An Englishman
seated beside me remarked that the Germans
were the only European people who had money
with which to travel. Some one has said thaf
while the Germans do travel extensively, they
never can tell where they have been until they
return home and look over the post cards they
sent home while on the way.
It costs money to travel first class in Europe i

IOI
one must count on four cents per mile for pas
senger tickets and pay extra, and high at that,
for baggage transportation, nothing is checked.
The English and the Germans carry everything
by hand, and where they are the coaches look
like an express car. A dining car on the con
tinent looks like a Philadelphia street car, ad
vertisements cover the sides and ceiling, and
the menus look like low-priced theatre pro
grammes, and some Americans tell with a most
complimentary spirit of how cheap and com
fortable railway travel is in Europe. As I have
never tried the third class, my experience of
course is limited.
Genoa the beautiful puts one in contact at
once with the best things. Her people, streets,
parks and buildings make ore feel at home.
The Campo Santo (cemetery) is a gallery of
wonderful statuary, some of which are not
strictly appropriate, but aside from that are
well worth seeing; these are mostly placed in
the many long galleries. Among the old
churches is the Duomo L'Lorenzo, the oldest
one, where it is claimed the ashes of St. John
the Baptist are kept under the altar of the
Chapel of St. John. Because it was a woman
who demanded and received the head of St

102
John, no woman is permitted to enter the cha
pel. The Brignole Sale Palace is the finest in
the city, the only reminder of the once import
ant family. Here are seen some fine paintings
by Van Dyke and other noted artists. I sat in
the seat often sat in by the great Paganini in
the choir of the Duomo. Perhaps the finest of
the many monuments is the one to Columbus.
Naples, the place we are told to see and then
die, offers entirely too much delight to encour
age any such act. Situated on a harbor shaped
like a horseshoe, surrounded by so much of
natural beauty that requires unlimited time to
grasp even a portion of its charm, repeated
visits do not lessen the interest and the time to
die is postponed to a later date. If only to see
Vesuvius at night from any one of the many
points of vantage, one is well rewarded for vis
iting Naples, but there are many places full of
charm and surprise that no one should begrudge
at least a full week spent in and about the city.
The museum, than which there is none finer in
its contents, cannot be seen even casually in
three days, and what endless delight one may
have in going among the old part of the city,
where the streets are narrow and full of shops
that afford continual pleasure and study, and of

103
course lessened purse. From the hill of Posilipo,
no matter how often you go there, you never
tire of the view spread out in all directions.
Dirt and beggars are not in evidence to any
annoying extent, and where met with there is
an added charm to the picture.
Pompeii, Vesuvius and Herculaneum are of
course visited and enjoyed, but in the museum
you may see the wonderful things that were
the pride of the two cities and that Vesuvius
did its best to hide from the world. I over
heard a woman (sad to say an American) say
on board the steamer at the dock, a White Star
ship full of tourists, to a group of her friends :
"I have spent two hours on shore and have not
seen anything worth while." The poor ignor
ant thing, who only could afford to travel and
afterwards talk about it, did not know anything
about Naples. One-half hour in time would
have taken her to the hilltop from where she
would have had before her a panorama of sea
and land that would have included the entire
bay of Naples, Vesuvius, Capri Island, Italian
snow-capped mountains and the entire city, but
her mind and vision being limited, she went
away having seen Naples in two hours and
found nothing of interest.

104
Here in Rome, the imperial city, whose seven
hills have for so many years been the rallying
cry of all writers, we find at each return visit
even more of interest and more to enjoy and
realize more conclusively that six months at
least could be given to the city and then fail to
exhaust the objects of interest. Going again
into the Forum is like getting back home, while
the churches, galleries and monuments, every
one of which demands again your adoration.
The great Coliseum, no matter when or how
seen, draws you often to its old walls. I saw
it by moonlight, at nights when it is lighted at
intervals by colored fires set off instantaneously
in all parts of it, giving an effect that is most
impressive. Then as the fires die down and
the music begins, and the moon's light plays
over and about the massive ruins, one's fancy be
comes active and recalls the events of long years
ago into realities, for it was there that the crud
est things in Roman history were done. There
are many other places to visit and things to see,
among them a trip by a two-story trolley car
out to Frascati, a beautiful town twelve miles
away on the hill facing Rome. From there one
gets a fine view of the great stretch of lowland
once a breeder of fever, but now producing food

I05
supply to those who once dreaded it. Across
this pleasing picture of farm and pasture land
the eye carries to the Eternal City, with the
great dome of St. Peter's high up in the heav
ens, a beacon of hope and comfort to all. Rome,
like other places, is constantly undergoing
changes and so-called improvements, streets are
being straightened and modern buildings re
placing the old, many favorite places have been
blotted out, but enough of the historical is left
to keep alive the world's interest. So long as
Rome stands will travelers, artists and students
come to her.

BOLOGNA, ITALY
April 20th, 1909.
^^HE most important thing in Italy is a
^^ horn, just a plain, every-day horn, and
the next on the list is a bell. Nothing in the
line of transportation can start without the
signal from a horn. The auctioneer when he
has made his last effort for the top price com
pletes the sale by blowing a horn ; it is a very
amusing performance. The last thing the con
ductor of the steam or trolley car has to do is to
blow the horn, and often you think he has for
gotten it. No one is in a hurry except a tourist
or a cab driver when he is being paid by the
course, but that driver when he is engaged by
the hour cannot possibly get his horse to move
faster than a slow walk. Italy is a place to
rest and be patient. A train that can — it never
does — go thirty miles an hour is a public dan
ger and a trolley car that runs by schedule a
curiosity. Italy is being cleaned and restored,
and one is surprised at the amount of work un
der way among the old churches and monu
ments. The tourist must be tempted to come
and the show places preserved. In the churches
work and prayer go on all day, but not by the

107
same persons. Seeing many things depends
on the hand-out. In many chapels a celebrat
ed painting is covered by a curtain beside which
a faithful one stands with his hand out to re
ceive your hand-out before the string is pulled.
At St. Peter's in Rome on Good Friday a spe
cial service was held and admission to a special
platform was only by card. Some fellow- Amer
icans saw me among the elect and asked how I
came to reach that favored place. The answer
was, "See" the man holding the curtain and
remember this is a special occasion. They got
front seats. Good places in the earthly sanc
tuary are not nearly so free as is claimed.
It may surprise many to know that the Sab
bath day is observed very honestly in France
and Italy so far as suspension of business and
labor in general is concerned. No stores are
open and no working people are busy either in
town or country. In the far east natives do not
shop on Sunday. Wherever you find shops
open you find the tourists doing the buying who
when home preach in favor of and contribute
money toward sending missionaries to heathen
lands to teach observance of the Sabbath.
In Florence a few days ago I saw so many
men gathered in a great square that I suspect-

io8
ed an uprising of the people, but on inquiring
learned that Friday was market day and the
men from the country were in town to do their
trading. I saw nothing for sale but did see a
splendid crowd of men and wondered why some
of their kind did not move over to the United
States. What a great difference our records at
Ellis Island would show. A man in Italy who
knows only enough to clean streets is paid
twenty-five cents a day, while a good mechanic
gets as much as eighty cents, and we get the
twenty-five cent man mostly.
It was an Irishman who in reply to a wise
man's caution, who in effect said, "My man,
don't you know to work in the hot sun as you
are doing without a hat on your head is liable
to give you brain fever," said, "Sure sor, don't
you know that if I had ony brains I'd not be
doin' this wurrk. "
Florence, like Rome, is so rich in churches,
galleries and gardens that one is slow to go
away ; one visit to Friesole means several others
and a like temptation follows respecting other
places to see. No one ever tires seeing the
Duomo and Campanile. If there be no other
attraction to the Baptistery, the three wonder
ful bronze doors will afford pleasure and in-

fetrUction for mafiy visits. The mausoleum of
de Medici in the church of San Lorenzo holds
Several of Michael Angelo's works, Day and
Night, his master- piece, being among them.
The Chapel of the Princes, covered in the in
terior with jasper, agate, lapis-lazuli and other
precious stones reflecting like a mirror the won
derful ceiling. The Uffezi and the Petty Pal;
aces or galleries are a never ending wealth of
charm to which one may go to' forever and not
weary. An afternoon in The Tribuna is an
education in art. The Arno and the Ponte
Vecchio, the goldsmiths' shops, in fact, there is
no end of attractions to gratify the eye and the
mind, the Boboli Gardens and the Loggia, the
house of Angelo, the Dante monument, and
others. Bologna is one of the ancient cities of Italy
and contains much of the old among its many
interesting items. The Church of S. Petronio
is the most impressive Roman Catholic Church
I have ever visited. Had it been completed
according to original plans, now to be seen, it
Would have been the largest church in the
World ; as it is, it is large and the most churchly
of all. Its immense proportions outside and in,
its fine chapels and rich windows and beautiful

na
architecture make it a gem in the list of great
churches. One curious and interesting feature
in the building is a large clock with two dials,
one giving the Greenwich time, the other the
ancient Italian time, showing a difference of
nearly four hours. Bologna in a modern sense
is noted for its sausages, which are guaranteed
as to quality and shipped to all parts of the
world, and for its excellent Wines. In the mar
ket I saw a native eating his spaghetti as we
sometimes see in old pictures. He gathered a
great bunch on his fork, then lifting it high
above his mouth he carefully guided it into the
opening. The two leaning towers, the Campo
Santo and the good hotel are not the least of
the attractions of the city, nor is the splendid
statue of Neptune in the principal square to be
overlooked. Verona has a noble monument of Roman
grandeur in its Arena, not so large as the Coli
seum in Rome, but equal to it in material. It
was built in 290 A.D. to seat 20,000, and not*
withstanding the barbarian wars and the ordin
ary weather assaults, it is a grand ruin. The
city is divided in two parts by the river Adige
which is a very swift stream; a number of mills
Hre anchored in mid-stream, where the water

lit
po"Wef is abundant and strong. It is a fortified
city and its fortifications are placed among the
most extraordinary works of military engineer
ing in Europe. The Piazza Erbe (vegetable
market) was in ancient times a forum. A clock
tower, a great pillar consisting of one block of
marble on which the Hon of St. Mark stands,
and a beautiful fountain make this a point very
attractive; near by in a church yard are the
tombs of the Seigniors of Verona, curious in
their construction and well preserved. The
Tomb of Juliet is in an old unused garden of a
monastery, but I did not discover Romeo's.
The cathedral contains some paintings of note,
among others is an Assumption by Titian. The
hotel is not worthy to be commended and doea
hot tempt one to linger.

MtlNtCfit, BAVARIA
May 4th 1909.
>^^HERE are places where the traveler when
^^ he or she arrives feels at home, and to
me Munich is one of them. On my first visit
I had this feeling, and this time it came with
increased power. The trip from Verona was
broken by several stops that offered attractions,
and then too, the country along the way was
much too grand to be hurried through, for the
Tyrolian country should be a daylight trip.
Leaving Verona at ten a. m. I arrived at
Botzen at two p. m. Botzen was at one time
the capital of the Tyrol; for situation there
could be no better; surrounded by mountains
except to the south makes it ideal for climate
and for a health resort. The approach coming
down the mountain is charming beyond descrip*
tion, and when you arrive and find yourself in
a rich valley with snow-capped mountains all
about you, while you stand among the fruit
trees in full bloom, you wonder and almost
adore. By carriage or by the modern trolley
along splendid roads you are taken up into the
hills among scenery that almost overwhelms
you ; especially is this so when you go up on

the arial elevator that carries you almost
straight up for more than a thousand feet.
That trip gives you more thrill than the ride
up the incline on a grade of nearly forty per
cent, but one experience is quite enough,
though some one has said that even hanging is
nothing when you get used to it. There is
much to see and enjoy from the ground.
At Innsbruck, situated on the Inn, a beauti
ful stream making glad the rich valley sur
rounded by lofty mountains, is another place to
rest and revel in history and natural beauty.
On the way from Botzen the train climbs to the
elevation of over four thousand feet at a speed
of eighteen miles per hour with two big engines,
it is slow enough to permit full enjoyment
of the view all about and over us. The com
ing down, however, was some faster. The hotel
is a good one and adds much to one's stay and
enjoyment of the city. The Hof Kirche, which
contains the magnificent tomb of Maximilian,
is alone worth a trip to that city. Among other
tombs in the church is one of the great patriot
Hofer, whose body was recovered some years
after his execution and brought back here for
honorable burial. On the Neustadt, the prin
cipal street, at the end, facing the mountain cap-

H4
ped with snow, stands the monument column
of St. Anne, surmounted by a figure of the
Virgin, erected to commemorate the victory
over the Bavarians in 1703. There are other
things of historic interest, all adding much to
the beauty of the natural attractions.
The run by rail from Botzen to Bramer re
minds me very much of the Royal Gorge in
Colorado. Salsburg was once a Roman town called by
another name. The change of name did not
in any way change the beautiful situation which,
according to some authorities, vies with Naples
and Constantinople. The river is banked on
each side by high hills, on top of which are
many imposing buildings, among them the
castle Hohen Salsburg of feudal days. The
mountains round and about the city vary in
elevation to height of 8,000 feet, wonderful na
ture pictures.
Vienna, the capital city of Austria, the home
of fashion and of the best dressed women of
Europe, magnificent palaces and parks (one
park covers 4, joo acres), wide streets and grand
boulevards. The Cathedral of St. Stephen: of
course stands first among the important build
ings. Ample time should be given for a proper

"5
enjoyment of it as seen and studied from the
outside and within its walls; but there are so
many great churches, museums, theatres and
monuments that a week is too short for even a
casual enjoyment. A singular monument
among the many splendid ones is the column
of the Trinity, erected in 1694 after the cessa
tion of the plague.
From Vienna I came directly to Munich, a
ten hour ride by fairly comfortable train, and
through interesting country. Among the va
riety of growing crops I noticed with surprise
that hops are extensively cultivated, and I hear
it stated that in Germany they are largely used
in manufacturing beer. One of the places
travelers visit soon after arrival is the Hofbrau-
haus, where the celebrated Munich beer is
sold. It is, to say the least, a remarkable sight
to see during the day at different times over
three thousand persons of all ages and both
sexes drinking beer. On the first floor the cost
is less because each person must get his or her
glass or mug from a rack, wash it if thought
necessary and go with it to the dispenser, then
for a penny a dish of soup may be had at an
other place, the dish being obtained in like
manner as the mug, then a place to stand or

n6
sit secured among the crowd; there time, ease
and comfort is seen and experienced. On the
upper floors the same quality of beer is served,
but with more comfortable conveniences and at
some higher cost. There is the early morning
thirst about six o'clock, then about ten, and so
on through the day and most of the night. The
German never eats without drinking and never
drinks without eating. Sobriety and enjoyment
seem to be boon companions.
Munich is a beautiful city. Art and artists
abound. The Palace is one of the main attrac
tions and through it at fixed days and hours
you may be conducted by the official guide and
will see much that is well worth seeing and
much that will impress upon you the fact that
the people's money is used for personal grati
fication without regard to cost. Standing in
front of the throne in the Throne Hall you can
look through connecting rooms for a distance
of seven hundred feet. This Throne Hall is
one hundred feet by seventy-five in size, and in
it are twelve statues of princes of the ruling
house of Wittlesbach in gilt bronze. The guide
stated that it cost over two hundred pounds to
gild each one. No doubt it cost more than that
to gild some of the originals. The beauty and

U7
dignity of the city is greatly increased by the
splendid buildings, fine parks and artistic mon
uments, all constructed and placed for that
purpose. There is no end of great paintings,
ancient and modern, on the walls of the galle
ries and museums.

ANTWERP, BELGIUM
May 14th, 1909.
JniY route to this city took me first from
ilU Munich to old Nuremburg, that quaint
old walled city of ancient times, one of the old
trading places where commerce and war figur
ed big. The high and strong walls with the
big towers at many gates still stand picturesque
and well preserved, but all gates have been re
moved and the mote filled in. The river divides
the city in the centre, and along its banks are
some of the oldest buildings, and across it in
many streets are bridges of old and new style,
each adding something to the pleasing appear
ance of the city. Few of the streets are
straight, and few of them are without some at
tractions, whether it be stores or shops where
the wonderful toys are displayed, toys being at
the head of the manufactures of the place, or
the historical homes preserved of the great ar
tists of days gone by, or splendid churches in
which may be seen the works of such men as
Adam Krafft, Albert Druer and others who
were inspired in their efforts by religious fer
vor. Longfellow called Druer the Evangelist
of Art. The wonderful wrought iron fountain

n9
monument, on which are many life-sized figures
of bible history, in the market square, which
deservedly is called the beautiful fountain.
Close by is the bronze fountain in the goose
market, in which is the figure of a farmer hold
ing in his arms two geese. The Grand Pix by
Kraff t, which is over sixty feet high, with many
historical figures carved upon it, a splendid
marble; this is one of several pieces of art seen
in the Church of St. Lawrence.
In St. Sebauldus is the shrine of that saint,
a large Gothic canopy of bronze of great beauty.
I attended a Sunday service there, hearing an
eloquent sermon and thrilling impressive music
by organ and choir.
The castle on the hill, overlooking the city
and surrounding country, is part of the wall;
part of it is fitted up for use by the royal fam
ily and is occasionally used. It is rather modest
in its appointments but interesting to see. In
one part there is a large collection, as a muse
um, of instruments of torture which were used
in times of long ago. There my curiosity was
very soon satisfied. The most interesting place
in the town is the Museum, and especially the
rooms in which are exhibited the household
utensils and furniture used from the very ear-

120
liest times. It required a special notice that
the doors were going to be closed for the day
to get me away.
Rothenburg, although a little out of the
way, is another of the oldest towns full of his
tory. Its old walls and towers, the crooked
but clean streets, the old architecture, the room
in the modest hotel where the Crown Prince
slept, and from the window of which a splendid
view is had, the custom officer like Mathew of
old seated at the gate collecting the tariff dues,
the musicians out on a high balcony of the
town hall announcing by their instruments in
beautiful harmony that a wedding is taking
place in the official room below, all afford you
the expected reward for visiting the town.
Then I went to Wurzburg, where the fruit trees
were in blossom and the weather was more
seasonable. In the reading room of a comfort
able hotel I found a copy of Uncle William, a
real American book, and spent the evening re
reading it with a feeling of thanks to whoever
left it for me to enjoy. There too a river di
vides the town, over which is a great and an
cient stone bridge with statues of saints and
others along each side. The river Main fur
nishes power for a number of industries and is

121
made to help the public good in other ways,
There is a palace there, and a most magnificent
one; they claim it contains nearly three hun
dred apartments. I saw a good many of them.
The park system of the town is extensive, and
the great forest not far away helps greatly to
beautify it. The citadel is upon a hill high
above the river and seen clearly from the stone
bridge ; permission must be obtained to visit it.
I was satisfied to stand on the bridge among
the other saints and shoot it with my kodak.
Frankfort is a big, fine city, but so much
like New York one does not care to linger. It
made me homesick to see the names on the
signs of the business houses such as Levy and
other good American names appearing all along
Broadway. There are some churches and a
museum, of course. The Palm Garden is one
of the leading pleasure resorts where fine mu
sic and good beer may be enjoyed. Good look
ing people who wear good looking shoes im
press upon you the fact that money is plenty
and conditions are modern, too modern in fact
for the traveler who is not looking after such
things. The Rhine — of course every one who travels
abroad should see, and to see right must travel

on it. It is a great river historically, with some
very rapid and muddy water in it. Many boats
(small ones) travel on it in day time, not at
night. It has high banks along each side which
are covered on the sides with vineyards and on
the top with castles of various ages and condi
tions of ruin, each one having some legend as
sociated with it. The passenger boats are so
small they afford very little comfort. Most of
the room is given up to furnishing food and
drink to those who travel. The river is narrow
and crooked and difficult to navigate, and per
haps for that reason pilots are exchanged fre
quently ; the exchange is made by small boats
meeting the larger one out in mid-stream ; re
minded me of a trip through the St. Lawrence
rapids. A passenger boat the size of one of
our Albany day boats could not be navigated.
A number of fine monuments are seen along
the way, the principal one being the National,
commemorating the restoration of the German
empire after the Franco- Prussian war. There
is another important one at Coblenz, at the
point of junction of the rivers Rhine and Mo
selle. The trip should be made by all travelers,
especially Americans, so that when they hear,
as they will from their fellow countrymen who

123
have never been on our Hudson, that America
has no river that will compare with the Rhine,
they will be in a position to know, provided of
course they have ever traveled on the Hudson
or any of our many rivers.
Cologne has much of interest to reward and
occupy one during a stay ; the great cathedral
will be the first place visited and no doubt the
last, for no one will be satisfied with one visit.
It contains relics, of course, but the statues,
paintings and magnificent altars are the mag
nets that draw and hold your admiration. Time
must not be considered, one must feel unre
stricted if intelligent enjoyment is to be had
from visiting that grand building ; the exterior
alone, as some one has said, strikes the be
holder with awe and astonishment. In the
church of St. Ursula you see some of the bones
of Ursula, which are carefully preserved in
cases of gold and silver. The walls of the church
are covered with the bones of the eleven thou
sand virgins who were massacred by Huns at
Cologne because of their faith (so the story runs).
The church of St. Gereon has walls covered with
the bones of some three hundred men in the
year of 286 A. D. who were martyrs of their
faith. I have seen a number of churches where

124
bones have been used as decorations, but I give
the palm to St. Ursula. There are other inter
esting places well worth seeing, and time must
be given to see the attractive shops and to pur
chase a supply of Eau de Cologne, provided
you are not going to England, for there the
custom house has a bad record for seizing all
found. Perhaps English customs need to be
(s)cented. This city, Antwerp, has a wonderful zoo and
a cathedral the spire of which made Napoleon
think of a lace handkerchief, but whether for
show or blow the record fails to state. It is a
very beautiful spire as spires go. Ruben's great
painting "The Descent from the Cross" hangs
in this church and is a source of revenue, as it
costs so much a look, paid before the guard will
draw the curtain. The artist's house and his
statue number among the exhibits of the city.
Antwerp is one of the greatest shipping ports
of the world. Napoleon, who admired things
like lace 'kerchiefs, also had admiration for the
possible greatness of a country and city, and
because of his work in the harbor enlargement
and the deepening of the river was it made
possible for it to reach its present importance
of a great port, one of the finest in the world,
to which come as their home the greatest ships
of present time.

AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND
June 5th, 1909,
mO doubt but that if this country were to
day to select a coat of arms it would be
changed so that a windmill, a cow and a canal
would replace the present design, for without
those three there would be no Holland. What
would happen to the country if the wind should
not blow for two weeks is too serious a matter
for consideration. "If" the water should get
through the dykes, and perhaps it would if the
wind stopped blowing, the country would get a
wetting, but the Dutchman says that "if" does
not happen, and the country goes on depending
on the engineers whose duty it is to keep care
ful watch on the dyke system ; he says the cy
clones and tornadoes do happen in the United
States, and earthquakes do occur in various
places in the world, and Great Britain's "If"
(the German Dreadnaught) is more likely to
happen than the Holland "If", and so they go
on adding more land by shutting out the water.
They will soon start with the "Zuider Zee,"
its shallow water will become canals and the
reclaimed or made land turned into valuable
fields ; then some of the picturesque fisher folk

126
Will have to go to poling boats, minding draw
bridges or making cheese and have less time to
pose for the tourist. There are people in Hol
land who are actually peculiar to some Hol
landers because of their dress. On the Isle of
Markem there is a type of people who, if they
did not take themselves so seriously, would
really be funny. To see them to best advant
age one must go over on a holiday or Sunday,
as the men at other times are away fishing; on
these days the people are seen in resting day
attire. The women, as always, are the most
attractive, but here and at Volendam especi
ally, because they are so different from women
generally. Above the waist line they are as flat
as the country they live in, and the tight fitting
bright colored bodice they wear adds to the ef
fect. At the waist line the bulging begins, and
the bulge depends on whether six or eight
petticoats are worn; these hang a little below
the knees, from where the heavy woolen stock
ing and wooden shoes finish the picture. At
Markem they wear a close fitting white cap
which encloses all the hair except a long curl
hanging down each side of the face. At Vo
lendam they wear a cap that covers their hair
save a bang on the forehead, and that bends

2 27
Out under the ears like a Russian sleigh runner.
The men's dress is a heavy woolen shirt and
wide bloomer style of trousers buttoned just
below the knee, and an odd shaped cap that fits
so close that it is hard when you see him to tell
whether he is coming or going. All children
until seven years of age are dressed alike,
During that time the boy is distinguished from
the girl by a small medallion embroidered on
the top of his cap. It is a sight worth seeing
to meet these people on their day of rest ; they
usually walk in pairs, two women or two men,
going about visiting, the girls and women knit
ting as they chatter. What a sober looking lot
of men they are. Perhaps if I had to wear
their costume and talk Dutch I would not feel
like laughing.
Along the Zuider Zee the men of the fishing
villages wear different styles of buckles and
buttons on their clothes; many of these are of
silver and come down from father to son. Some
claim that clothes do not make a man, but the
buttons do along that sea ; it is said the bottons
at times identifies the bodies of fishermen who
are drowned, The great wide trousers in case
of drenching storms or ship wreGk do not cling
and impede their movements.

128
Every town and city of Holland is noted for
some one thing. Edam is where the cheese of
that name is made ; Alkmaar is the great cheese
market town where every Friday from ten to
one o'clock on the market square great quanti
ties of cheese are sold. The cheese are piled
like hay cocks and sold by lots, and notwith
standing the many buyers and sellers there is
no noise or confusion. As watchful as I was I
heard no price given or offer made, but did ob
serve the buyer slap the seller's open hand once,
then twice and then three times ; the last slap
closes the deal which the first two lead up to.
Then come the carriers who work in pairs,
wearing straw hats painted either red, blue or
white, but both hats alike ; these carry the pur
chase to the weigh-house and then to the boats
waiting to be loaded to carry the goods to the
exporting points.
The way to see Holland is by boats traversing
the many canals; many days can and should be
given to this most enjoyable means of travel.
There is constant change of interest ; for part
of the way you travel below the level and then
you pass through locks that elevate you above
the second story of houses along the way. Off
in the distance you see a boat that is seemingly

PHOTO BY AUTHOR
FISHERMEN OF VOLENDAM
WATCHING THE AUTHOR TAKING A I'ICTUKK.

129
traveling across a great field. At some very
busy lock your boat is held for its turn, and
while being held the lock tender collects the
toll, reaching out to each boat a wooden shoe
attached to the end of a long pole; an enter
prising cornet player takes advantage of the
delay and rouses the spirits of the passengers
by playing with skill every national tune, and
how he does gather in the coppers.
There is hardly a town that cannot be visit
ed by boat. One of the most charming of places
is little Alsmere, a day's journey by canal, but
well worth it, for it is one of the pictures of the
country. Four o'clock is the milking time in Holland.
The milkmen go into the fields to the cows (in
Summer time), tie their hind legs together and
extract the milk. There are show places where
you may be taken and see the tails tied to the
ceiling of the barn, but Mauve, the great pain
ter, knew his Holland, and he got his subjects
in the field.
The fish market in the towns is worth see
ing. If you want a fish you must buy it at
auction and one lot at a time.
It is a clean country so far as exterior
appearances show; scrubbing is a continuous

130
labor, even the cobble stones in the streets are
scrubbed. I went to Arnheim to be convinced that the
country was not all fiat ; general information
placed that city in the Switzerland of Holland.
The road from Utrecht to Arnheim passes
through some elevated country, along which I
saw a few pine trees, the highest altitude being
perhaps four hundred feet, pretty high for Hol
land, but low for even a baby Switzerland.
Arnheim is a splendid city, situated on a branch
of the mouth of the Rhine in the midst of a
small forest; it is called the home of the rich
retired Dutch, a place of fine estates and sug
gests peace and rest, but to the visitor the
meadows, the cows and the canals are lacking,
and it is not real Holland.
One full month can be given to going about
this country; there is no end of things and
places to see. At Zaandam, where Peter the
Great of Russia worked learning shipbuilding
in 1699, and where twenty years later he visit
ed in company with his wife. The Russian na
tion now owns the shop and has it inclosed
within a substantial building. At Delft, where
formerly more than now Delftware was the
noted pottery, and where now may be seen

J31
many choice specimens. At Delft the Prince
of Orange was assassinated in the year 1584 in
the palace, now a barrack.
At Haarlem, where the tulips, hyacinths and
other flowers are seen in fields of many acres,
where in the great church of St. Bavon is the
world-renowned organ built in 1738, where on
certain days you may hear it free of cost, but
at other times the organist asks five dollars for
himself and one for the blower; the wonderful
carved pulpit is alone worth a stop-over to see.
Over at Kampen the storks' nests on the chim
neys add something to the otherwise attractive
town, and no one should miss seeing Zwolle
and Zuthphin, and then Groningen up north,
from where I am going into Germany and later
return to Holland to see the Hague and the
galleries.

HANOVER, GERMANY
June 18th, 1909.
i"^HE trip from Groningen, Holland, to Bre-
\^ men, Germany, was through a farming
country and manufacturing towns, all showing
evidences of great prosperity; very little if any
land is seen that is unproductive.
Bremen and Hamburg are the two great
ship ports of the empire, and each one has
much of interest for those who care to study
the commercial and for those who care to delve
into the historical. The wonderful develop
ment of the water facilities in each city com
mands the admiration of all who make even a
superficial inspection. Their rivers have been
made to serve in every way the needs of com
merce, domestic and foreign, and at same time
help in the development of park and residential
sections of the city. The Basen of the Alster
is an example of what may and can be done to
beautify a city, as Hamburg has done. The
fashionable promenade is along the quays and
the splendid boulevards are along its banks,
passing magnificent houses and beautiful gar
dens. The many passenger boats that carry
the people to and from their homes to the busi-

133
ness centres are also means of pleasure to
thousands who visit the public gardens along
the Alster within a short distance from the
centre of the city. What splendid opportunity
Jersey City has for like improvement, but alas,
so lacking in officials of incentive and capabili
ty, and no prospect of any better.
Connected with Hamburg by railroad and
trolley is Altona, a city of nearly two hundred
thousand, one-fifth as large as Hamburg, situ
ated also on the Elbe. It has fine shipping fa
cilities, beautiful parks and imposing monu
ments, the chief of which is the massive one to
Bismark. The street scenes, where among
others we see big dogs used in pulling milk and
other carts, add to the picturesque.
Bremen, on the river Weser, is the home
town of one of the great steamer lines and a
point of departure for thousands of emigrants
to America. The old ramparts of the city are
now promenades; along these are the theatres
and splendid public and business buildings.
The Rathhaus, dating back to the fifteenth cen
tury, is a remarkable building. The eight large
statues representing the emperor and the seven
electors adorn the southern fagade. In the
main hall is the splendid marble statue of a

134
former burgomaster. In the great wine cellar
you see the wine casks called the Rose, nearly
three hundred years old, and the twelve apost
les, a peculiar combination. The statue of Ro
land, eighteen feet high, erected in 1412, plac
ed in front of the building, is said to be the
symbol of the sovereignty of the city. Beside
these are many places and buildings of interest.
Hanover is a city of former greatness, the
home of the English kings George I. to V.,
when it was a part of the British empire. There
is much to indicate former grandeur. There
are pleasant streets and parks, some gardens,
among which the Tivoli beer garden is said to
rank first of its kind in Europe and noted in all
records of the town. The people, who dress in
the costume peculiar to their section, are es
pecially picturesque. The grounds of the
Guelphs retain their beaut)7, while the palace
is rather insignificant. The Leather Statue in
the main square is singular if not otherwise in
teresting. From here I return to Holland.

THE HAGUE, HOLLAND
June 23, 1909
^|AY old Dutch farmer Henry would say
Xii.) to me on a wet day: "It is a rainy day
and good to work inside," and I find when
traveling that a rainy day may well be given to
the galleries and museums. Every one has a
personal way of seeing sights. I became quite
interested in watching two men (Americans)
well along in middle life being taken through
one of the galleries by a guide who spoke very
little English, and that little very imperfect;
they were being rushed from one room to an
other taking a glance only as they followed, and
of course accepting as gospel all they were
told, some of it I heard, and no doubt most of
it was as unreliable as that I did hear; a day or
two after I met them on a boat going to Volen-
dam and some other dams. In their innocense
they were asking him about the tips they should
pay and were making note of the lesson in high
finance; when it should come time to reward
their guide they would feel obliged to hand him
their pocket book, from which to help himself.
To get among the old masters in the Ryks
Museum at Amsterdam on a rainy day is the

136
top step on the ladder of pleasure. The build
ing is just bursting full of old canvases that the
million are collectors are more than anxious to
own, but until Holland gets bankrupt they will
remain on the present walls, excepting of course
earthquakes or bursting of dykes. Rembrandt
is perhaps the idol, and "The Night Watch"
the altar before which the visitors first appear
and do reverence. Naming a picture, like
naming a book, need have no real connection
with the subject; this picture, justly celebrated,
hangs in the place of honor in the finest room
and has as companions paintings of Petersen,
Flick, Elias, Ketel, Twost, and De Keyzer.
Most men of Holland in those early days must
have been painters, and each artist appears to
have selected subjects of similar type, so that
after you have spent an hour among them you
begin to feel so at home meeting the same per.
sons so many times, though posed differently,
so life-like are they you would like to shake
hands with them.
One writer says each person in the several
pictures paid fifty florins to be put there, a
rather high figure then, but the investment paid
big. But we cannot stay too long with these
jolly fellows, for dear old "Grandma Bas" is

137
receiving in Room No. 261 ; Rembrandt seated
her some years ago and there she welcomes you
and invites you to sit down and with her sweet
smile asks you to tell her all the gossip you
know and you need not be restricted to what
you know so long as it is interesting. She sits
there with folded hands, so happy ; in her right
hand she has a fine handkershief with exquisite
lace edging; around her neck a large Dutch
white ruching; on her head the dearest old
Dutch cap, fitting so snug, and just back of her
ears curved out so as to act as a sound- catcher.
She watches you with her twinkling eyes and
you think every moment an invitation to stay
for tea is coming; but that rich cloak with the
sable fur suggests that she is expecting to go
for a drive, and you remember that another
Grandma is also receiving in room 263. Some
persons have two grandmothers and find them
very different. As we leave Grandma Bas
(her full name is Elizabeth Jacob Bas, widow
of Admiral Swartenhoort) she follows you with
her merry eyes and bids you come again.
Hal's "Old Lady" is a dignified, stately and
serious personage, who does not encourage
gossip ; there is no smile on her face when you
come to greet her. One hand rests near a

138
clasped Bible and the other is at ease, but ready
to emphasize the words you are going to hear.
There is a Sabbath Day air about her that
suggests to you that a Heidelberg catechism
will be brought out and you will be given an
examination. You are quick to pay your re
spects and hurry away to that other room where
Vanderhelst's "Staalmeisters", six jolly good
fellows, are enjoying an oyster supper. What
a bully good time they are having with the
oysters and something sparkling in the glasses.
Where they got those Lynnhaven oysters
worried me, for Vanderhelst never was at Old
Point Comfort, and so far I haven't seen an
oyster in Holland. Perhaps I wasn't homesick!
I went at once to room 65 to visit Veermer's
"Woman Readinga Letter from Home". I hadn' t
any to read, so watched her while she read her's.
Evidently the writing was bad or the news not
pleasing, for she seemed to have a hard time
over it. She stood up at it, leaning against a
table near a map hanging on the wall. She had
her bright, cool, blue jacket on, and seemed
quite in harmony with the blue covered chairs
and dark red table covering. Not far from her
was a sick woman seated by a table, her head
resting on the whitest and the softest of pillows.

'39
A pretty shaped blue slipper peeked out from
under a rich yellow satin dress, and a white arm
from under a cream colored cape trimmed with
rich fur, was held out for the doctor. While he
counted the pulse beats I wanted to count them,
too, but the guard stopped me; and she had on
her head the most chic little cap. I am going
back to see her.
To offset my disappointment, I went into
another room to see Terburg's "Pastor's Ad
vice," and, perhaps, get some of it myself, for
I've been away from my pastor so long I feel
the need of it. The characters in this picture
are the pastor, the mother, her daughter and a
dog. The dog seemed to be taking the advice
most seriously; but the mother in her rich
white sateen gown and black cape, standing be
side a table with a bright red cover, seems to
be agreeing with the pastor, who is seated be
side the daughter, for whose benefit the call
is being made, but the daughter has a weary
"wish you would hurry up and go" look; and
then I went back to the honor room and had a
last word with Rembrandt' s"De Staalmeisters",
six old schemers seated around a table discuss
ing whether to grant a franchise promptly or

140
hold it up, just like their present-day succes
sors do.
Here at The Hague you are close to royal
ty. You may stand across the street from the
Queen's Palace and look at it. As palaces go in
Europe, this one would not get even favorable
mention, but as a home along domestic lines
it will continue to be in a class by itself. Hol
land is not noted for display either in person or
buildings. She is strong on peace, and the
House in the Woods stands for world's peace,
and there in the beautiful park some consider
able American money has erected a place of
assembly for advocates of peace throughout the
world. When that big row so many are pre
dicting between two or more great nations over
here starts in, we will find out what real in
fluence these plans will have. The parks and
churches are important and the contents of the
galleries rival all others. The best of Dutch
artists are well represented. Among the great
paintings you see Paul Potter's "Bull" and
Rembrandt's "Anatomical Lesson," copies of
which are seen in offices of doctors; others too
are equally deserving attention.

HAVRE, FRANCE
July 17th, 1909.
fONCE heard a Baptist minister say there
were three kinds of lies : The usual, ordi-1
nary lie, the damned lie and the statistical lie ; to
these I am sure may be added the guide book lie,
for I have been a victim of that kind many a time.
It is claimed that a guide book telling the real
truth would not sell. The ones We use certainly
sell more ways than one.
Coming out of Holland, I Visited in turn Ghent
and Bruges in Belgium, both places rich in his*
tory of ages ago, and also in art of days long
passed. There is at Bruges an inn, picturesque
and attractive, where English is the spoken lan
guage, and where the dining-room looks out on
a garden that is a temptation to loaf and enjoy.
Ghent is the larger city and fast growing into
a large manufacturing center, regaining some of
its one-time greatness. It has, too, the largest
and most interesting churches. In its great cathe
dral are some of the finest marbles in the world,
and perhaps no painting surpasses the great mas
terpiece of the brothers Van Eyck, "The Adora
tion of the Spotless Lamb." It is more than four
hundred years oldr and looks in color and general

142
preservation as if it were not fifty years old.
There are over two hundred persons seen in the
painting, and each one will bear the closest in
spection with a strong glass. Without the fig
ures the painting as a landscape would be a mas
terpiece. The Van Eyck brothers were the original paint
ers in oil ; they were twelve years painting "The
Lamb." Both are buried in the crypt of the
cathedral. The Crypt, built in the ninth century, was in
early days used in part as a chapel. It reminded
me of the subcellars of the Capitol at Washing
ton. The belfry takes you back to the twelfth
century. It is nearly four hundred feet high,
has forty-four bells in the chime, including Ro
land, praised in poetry by Longfellow, who also
sang the praises of the belfry of Bruges, which,
while not so high, has a larger chime with a
sweeter tone and is much the handsomer and bet
ter situated. The cathedral there is of the
twelfth and thirteenth centuries, has the hand
some bronze doors, a wonderful marble by
Angelo and paintings by one of the Van Eycks
and Van Dyck, but the chief attraction is the
tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter Ma
rie, who married Maximilian, on which are the

143
magnificent bronze effigies of the ones within
the tombs.
The books refer to the fact that Bruges is
celebrated for pretty girls, but that's one of the
fibs of the guide books, or the writers of them
don't know a pretty girl; they — the writers — •
don't live in Jersey City.
At Lille, France, I stopped off en route to Paris
and wished I hadn't ; no English spoken, and all
I knew outside of English was a little Irish, but
the train had gone and the town had a history
and some things worth seeing. It is in the midst
of a great hay and grain country, and is a large
manufacturing place and will be larger, as a large
manufacturing corporation of America is erect
ing a large plant there. Two of its representa
tives and a cotton planter from Arkansas were
staying at the hotel, much to my comfort ; misery
loves company, and they were not over cheerful,
but they had to stay. I asked the engineer of
the American company how his company came
to locate at Lille. The man from Arkansas said :
"That's the very question I've been wanting to
ask." He was glad he had not, for the answer
was, "because it suited us best." I recovered
soon, and said, "Sir, your right place is in the
diplomatic service, not building factories." To

144
which he replied that the service was long on
honors, but short on remuneration, and he pre
ferred to be a part of an American trust.
Think of a man preferring to work for dol
lars rather than serve his country.
Shocking !
Almost as shocking as the French women who
go into the ocean bathing without stockings, and
that's what they do at the swell watering places
On the Normandy coast. The season is late ; there
has been so much rain that the real ultra set has
not come, but there are a few of the company
already indulging in the gaieties of the casino
and the bathing. Our home papers at times de-
Scribe some startling costumes seen at our water
ing places, but what think you of a single gar
ment best described as a pair of trunks with
shoulder straps; A Jerseyman was content to
stand on the beach, but a man from staid old
Philadelphia got into a bathing suit and went out
for to see.
Paris continues to be Paris; to some a most
attractive place, while to others like me there is
no special beauty about the city that makes it a
desirable place. The cafe life among a people
who have no real home life is attractive for a
first view, but it and other features at a second

145
view do not hold the attention. Certainly the
shops and the stores cannot compare with those
of New York, and it is a fact as a Frenchman
stated it to me, that he could buy the same things
in the same places thirty per cent, lower than
we innocent Americans, and then the duty to be
added. In the Normandy section of France the time-
taking traveler may find much to please and in
terest and instruct. Rouen, with its preserved
mementoes of Jeanne D'Arc, the tower in which
she was held as a prisoner, taking you back to
her time — practically the identical tower, save
only the more modern roof — the place where she
was burned marked by a beautiful fountain ; the
old building in the courtyard, of which the Kings
Henry and Francis so many years ago met to ad
just their troubles ; the five carved historical pan
els, record of that event, on the walls, yet in good
preservation; the great cathedral of marvelous
front and interesting tombs of Rollo and Richard
Couer de Lion, and then the other, even more
beautiful church, St. Ouen, with its grand central
tower, the marvel of ages, more pleasing than
the south tower of the cathedral, known as the
butter tower, built with money paid for indul
gence to eat butter during Lent, and the church,

146
St. Maclou, named for the Scotchman who after
his entering into the Roman church did so much
for its construction. Its special feature of inter
est is the wonderful curved and carved marble
staircase leading to the organ loft and the wood
carvings on the great doors ; and then the street
called Harloge, crooked and quaint, on which is
the great clock and the bell tower holding the old
bell Rouvel, which hundreds of years ago saved
the city from destruction by sounding a timely
warning. Then, Caen, the one-time capital of Southern
Normandy, whose two great churches hold the
remains and the tomb covering them of William
the Conqueror in the great masculine church he
built and of Matilda, his wife, in the church she
built on the hill on the opposite side of the city,
a church so well described by a friend as feminine
in its construction. It is a beautiful interior, so
refined and suggestive of womanly taste.
The hotel connected with this church, with its
beautiful grounds and hilltop observation point,
offering a view of the city and surrounding coun
try, is a place where one wants to linger and
study. And then last, but not the least, interesting spe
cial point of my ending of French territory is

M7
"Dives," where William the Conqueror lived and
from where he sailed with his followers to in
vade England. Here, too, he had built a church
of modest dimensions, and on a great tablet over
the front door inside has in more recent years
been cut the names of the noblemen who accom
panied him. The harbor here has long since been
filled up by nature's workings, but there now re
mains the old manor house known as the "L'hos-
tellerie Gullaome Le Conquerant, " are even more
quaint and interesting than anything of its kind
I have seen. The present proprietor received it
from his parents, who in turn had it from theirs ;
this one, a man of near seventy, is an artist, his
torian and antiquarian, who has in the necessary
restoration work held strictly to old lines, so care
fully that one cannot discover where the old and
the new end. He has hunted and found many
things connected with the old times, and has made
of his inn a museum also. It is an expensive
place, but like the boy's licking, well "worth" it.
What is lacking to please the "inner man" is well
offset by the treat to the eye and the mind. Hop-
kinson Smith has written of this inn in his story
of "Wonderful Inns."
From here at Havre en route to Southampton
by a night boat ends the continent part of the trip.

LIMERICK, IRELAND
August ioth, 1909.
^fl* HE globe trotter along the way gathers up
^J^ quite an assortment of gold bricks. "What
went ye out for to see ?" may often be asked, and
the answer generally is, "To see if the guide book
lied." Usually it did, but you paid for the trip,
and the chances are you told the inquirer that
everything was fine and nothing like it anywhere
on the great highway; but sometimes the desire
to be fairly respectable induces one to tell the
real truth. One of the biggest gold bricks I have pur
chased was the Trossachs of Scotland trip. If
it wasn't for American "easies" the thing would
be lost unless one read Scott. Some visitors (iri
all hotels in Great Britain the notices read "Visi
tors will take notice," etc.) making the trip from
Edinboro, via Sterling, break the journey at
Trossachs' Hotel and remain there over night. If
fortunate enough to have a clear night and a
moon they will get the best part of the trip then
and there. That hotel, a large, substantial one,
without a lift or electric lights, sends you to bed
with a candle and charges you modern rates. Its'
situation is high, facing Loch Achray, and has

149
a view of Ben Lomond in the distance. From
Callander, the end of the railroad, the route is by
stage about nine miles over a rolling country,
passing en route several fords through streams
and passes in the hills, where took place some
fighting in early days. But the grass didn't seem
any greener nor the hills any larger because of
that. Then we pass through what the books re
fer to as "the Woods of Lamentations." I don't
wonder. For of all the make-believe woods that
effort was the worst. There wasn't a tree in the
whole thing, in shape or size, that would make
a country telephone pole, and very few that
would do for fence posts. Along here we follow
Loch Venachar, which really is the River Ach
ray dammed up at its outlet and its waters let
out through sluices for supply to the mills near
and at Stirling, in earlier days, when the dry sea
sons were on the water was very low. Loch
Achray is a second small lake passed before the
Trossachs Hotel comes in view. The "wildness
and the rude grandeur" one reads about is only
in the books. The writer of which must have
taken the whiskey without water first and told
the story afterwards. From the hotel to the
steamboat dock is nearly a mile. At the hotel you
are advised to walk it, leaving your bags to go

15°
on by stage — the seating room for passengers is
not so plentiful as the room for bags, but on
your bill is the stage charge just the same.
I walked so that the wonderful narrow pass,
where rocks were so high and the way so narrow
that most thrilling things would occupy one's
spine and might impress me, but that morning
the space was wide and the rocks had shrunk
and the groves were not vocal — notice groves in
a pass so narrow, etc. At the Lake I met with
an old boatman, who at once spotted me as an
American, who at once said to him while seem
ingly enchanted by the surroundings, "And this
is where so many thrilling things happened?"
"Yes, sir," said he, "a few of them did, but
most of them happened in the books."
The coach drive from this loch to Loch Lo
mond is one of six miles through a dreary waste
where there are few cattle and seldom a house;
nothing but wire-grass and heather — a desolate
valley between barren hills, any amount of it
along the lines of the far western roads over
which we never thrill in America.
At Invernesnaid, the boat landing on Loch Lo
mond, we get a thrill because Rob Roy had his
headquarters there. That old Scot said: "Sir,
in your country you didn't use much poetry on

15*
cattle and horse thieves. You strung them on
trees and put holes in them." On Loch Lomond
at one or two places a view of "Ben" is had.
This loch comes nearer being one, as it is twenty-
five miles long and perhaps averages two miles
wide. An old Scotchman said he had stopped
family prayers by lamp light because the "cost
or'gang the profit," and that's the case with the
Trossachs trip. Comparisons may be odious, but
sometimes they are profitable.
In one of my letters I referred to the dirt and
degradation found in the Far East, intimating
that nowhere else could such things be; but I
was wrong, for in Scotland, in the city of Edin-
boro, on High Street, leading from Castle Rock
to Hollyrood Castle, I saw much in that line
that was far worse than anything seen elsewhere.
One native said it was too bad they couldn't all
be chloroformed. A fine idea ! Send the mis
sionaries to the far-off lands and chloroform the
" 'Eathen" at home ! That would be a quieting
effect. A Sunday there convinces one that Scotland is
long on religion and rum. I went to church one
morning — I could not get the habit there — to a
large church filled with people, and not a smiling
face did I see. Of course, religion is a serious

'52
thing when you think of it, and if you think too
hard you are apt to establish an expression that
says "repent or be damned," and I would rather
be — in Ireland on a Sunday. People smile over
here, in church and on the streets. You don't
need to wear colored glasses to soften things, but
they fool you on guide books here, too.
The Giants' Causeway may be fine as a cause
way, but from any other point of view it doesn't
offer any attraction to justify one going 150 miles
— round trip from Belfast — to see it. Geologists
may be much interested in it, but there is not
much evidence of it. It is away down under the
bluffs, a mile walk over a rocky road, and the
coming back is a hard pull, especially if it rains,
and a shower must be expected. The country for
scenery and highly cultivated fields is worth the
journey ; Nature not only made Ireland the green
isle, but the beautiful isle as well. The coast is
high and rugged and the inland rolling and pleas
ing. At Belfast there was a fine, large exhibi
tion of "the Irish industries." A big effort is
being made to restore the old days, when Ireland
was a great manufacturing country, and along
with that to encourage home consumption all
things being equal. Everything needed is made

153
in Ireland to some extent and the quality and
quantity are advancing rapidly.
Belfast is the hustling city and Dublin is the
social city. There is a marked difference in the
two places as to push and enterprise. Belfast has
several large retail stores and many small ones.
Dublin has more small ones and no large one to
equal either one of several in Belfast. Belfast is
the prettier city and has finer surroundings, and
is cleaner. No one need go astray in Dublin. On
every corner building is a plate attached to the
building, giving the street name in- Irish and in
English. The Irish name looks like Greek and
sounds like a cross between a German band and
a Covenanter hymn. It is easy to say when you
know how to do it, but it takes some time to get
the hang of it.
I attended a trial in the Criminal Court in Dub
lin and remained during the examination of a
woman who was the plaintiff. While answering
the Prosecutor she was everything nice, but when
the other side started the cross-examination there
was an exhibition of how simple it is to express
oneself in the real Irish. There was a combined
effort by the judge, lawyers on both sides and
court officers to stem the flow, but all of no avail.
It was a freshet in full swing, and all dignity dis
appeared at one point when everybody laughed
and — the crown lost the case.

CORK, IRELAND
August 14, 1909.
"T^HE KILLARNEY country of Ireland is
^^ one place in which the guide books are not
very far away from the truth in the description
given of the several points of chief interest. They
cannot drop to plain prose when referring to the
Dunloe Gap because one or two simple but strong
words would correctly describe it. One would
commence with a d, the other with a b, and
wise people would remain away. To reach the
Gap a drive of fully eight miles — long ones —
must be taken. Then comes the rough Gap trip
to the lake by pony, a long part of it down the
winding path of no interest but hard trials. If
you can force your driver to take you as far as
he can which is further than he will tell you he
can, the chances are you will conclude to return
as you came, but having left the hack and it has
started back you find you must go on by boat. To
sit in a rowboat, often overcrowded, for three to
four hours while the men row you the fourteen
miles through the lakes is said to be most thril
ling. Some who do it don't spell it thrilling but
the word they use is thrilling with meaning.
I did not go into the Gap. I saw it all except a

i55
very little distance, and my ticket did not oblige
me to go nor did my conveyance turn about
and leave me without a choice in the matter.
Two lords own all the land around the lakes,
which ownership, perhaps, includes the lakes, but
in any event controls them, and to enter the
grounds and drives each person is held up for
a shilling. My real Irish driver said that it had
gotten so now that one had to pay to enter
heaven, at least that was the way he understood
it, and the ticket collectors were always on hand.
I told him that if he were a Protestant in reason
able standing he could enter without charge, but
he said:
"I'm no so sure about that, sor ; could you give
me any proof ?"
At the old abbey he said:
"Sure, sor, ain't ye goin' to climb all over the
ruin and check off the cracks. Most of 'em do
so." And at the place of the "Meeting of the Wa
ters," he said:
"Sure, sor, ye ain't goin' down there to take
a picter ; why, that's agin all reason. Ye should
come down in a crowded rowboat, but I sup
pose ye have your own way doin' things."
At the place we leave the grounds I took a

156
picture which included a fierce-looking man of
some authority who came to me for my ticket.
As I handed it to him I said :
"I hope you don't object to my taking you?"
He answered surlily:
"It's certain that you can't take me either to
heaven or hell."
I replied :
"More's the pity, for I'd have to drop you half
way to either place, but I know where you should
go," and snapped my kodak shutter.
And then we had to hurry. Along the way
there is another hold-up where for nine pence you
can enter and walk fifteen minutes to see the
falls with a big name, but I said to my driver :
"Where, if there is a big waterfall up there,
does the water pass into the lake?"
"Well, you see, sor, you pay the nine pence
and you get to see where the fall is when there
is any water."
And "easies" were entering, and would come
back, telling how beautiful it all was.
The mountains around the lakes vary from
1,000 to 3,000 feet in elevation. Between two
of the highest there is at the highest point quite
a gap — made, as my man told me, by the devil
taking a great bite out of the top, the intention

being to get a piece of Ireland into his dominions'.
St. Patrick, who at that time was giving special
attention to old Ireland, saw the act and forced
him to drop the hunk into the lake, where as ari
Island it stands to-day, close to the farther shord
Since that event he-— the devih— has, like the ma
jority of the landlords, continued to be an ab
sentee. To my suggestion that he must have been iri
fearful humor When he gashed the country like
that, the driver answered that ai he understood
it, the devil was mostly in an unpleasant state
of mind, especially when dealing with Ireland,
as it is well known that there are no Irish in his
country, for try as he may he never gets them
hearer than America.
The coach trip from Killarney to Glengariff
is in miles forty-two, and if you are not quite
Used up on arrival there you change coaches and
drive twelve miles more to Bantry. The coaches
are very primitive and dirty and decidedly un*
comfortable. The road winds and climbs at
times to a height of 1,500 feet, the country is
rough and sparsely settled. Some black cattle
and goats are seen but little cultivation until you
hear Glengariff. At Kenmare, where a stop
for noonday meal is made, there is a fine hotel

158
on the mountain commanding a splendid and ex
tended view, one's enjoyment of this coach trip
depends to considerable extent on one's point of
view influenced somewhat by how hard the seat
gets en route. The road is very good.
You start at 8 a. m., rest one hour for lunch
and arrive at Glengariff at 4:30, and if you are
wise you will let that beautiful spot on the bay
hold you over night at least, and if you continue
wise you will cross the bay by boat to Bantry,
from where you go by train to Cork, a distance
of forty-two miles in the "fast" time of two
and one-half hours. I am told that there are
some trains in Great Britain that run at a faster
speed than thirty-five miles per hour.
Cork, as most persons know, is the lightest city
in the world, and added to that is the other im
portant thing. Blarney is not far away, which
accounts in part for the Imperial Hotel claiming
to be the finest in Ireland, and why not? Its
main entrance is directly in front of a livery
stable entrance. The street is forty feet wide.
Horses look into the hotel, guests must look into
the stable — some advance over chickens around
the office floor, but not much.
The drive to Blarney Castle, going by one
route and returning by another takes one over a

»59
fine country. Business at the castle was not very
brisk; the stone-kissers have not commenced to
come. It's rather hard lines when one is re
duced to stones for osculation pleasures, but from
all accounts there are many such — even Americans .
There is some talk of increasing the admission
price and having — well, no matter, they didn't
pay me to advertise it and I declined a free trial.

LONDON, ENGLAND
September 10, 1909.
C%|" ONDON is a wonderful place. You don't
Jt£j like it much at first, but on better acquaint
ance you get more fond of her. She is old, and
has peculiar ways, many of them crooked and
narrow, and many things suggest age, and many
more suggest things of the past. For instance,
iMew York some years ago had a stage line on
Broadway. We remember only dimly of it
in general, but We recall clearly that no one ever
boasted of it for beauty, and we had forgotten
that it had been worked off on London.
They are being replaced by motor buses on
which they are transferring the same old signs
of Pear's Soap and other nice things. The jolly
good fun sitting with the driver of the horse-
drawn stages will soon be a thing of the past.
Dear old London where there are no end of
things to see, including the finest assortment of
old rookeries, which are preserved and occupied
along Fleet Street. A London fog is a very
impressive sight sometimes oppressive. So thick
is it at times that you decide to believe the story
of the man who was so long getting shingles on
his bam that no one could understand it until it

iGi
appeared he had been nailing them on the fog —
it was an Englishman. We had the satisfaction
of seeing the Lord Mayor attend service at St.
Paul's in state, a very imposing sight, lacking
in solemnity, but more than complete in general
effect. It is a great thing to be Lord Mayor of
London, a territory about one mile square. The
office is an expensive one to secure, and by no
means inexpensive to maintain. The most in
teresting places in London to the visitor will
likely be the Tower, St. Paul's, Westminster Ab
bey, and then the galleries. The Poets' Corner in
the Abbey is where you go time and again ; you
get among respectable and quiet people, and can
sit down and visit with considerable comfort.
There is hardly a place in London that is not
Worth going to see. Even the fish market, where
you may get your vocabulary revised or strength
ened, will reward you for going to it. The
places Dickens made famous and the old Cheshire
Cheese Inn where you get such wonderful chops
and baked potatoes and see the same bench on
which Johnston sat. Sit on it yourself, if you
arrive in time, and the same hearth where the
cooking was then done. After being in foreign
countries so long where my language was but
little spoken I surprised myself no more than

l62
the manager of the shop when I asked him if
he spoke English, but London is a starting place
for many points and among them the country of
Burns. No wonder Bobbie worked into his poems so
much of country life. His old home is well
preserved, and the corner bed is kept made up,
as in his day. The very bench and table-rack
used by his family, is just as it was in his day.
An old Scotch lady, who uses the real old-fash
ioned languages, tells you about the "but" and
the "ben" of the old thatched roof house, and gets
a lot of your cash in exchange for mementos of
the place.
The old kirk, where the witches made merry
and trouble is considerable of a has been, but cov
ered with vines and without roof or doors, makes
a fine picture among the tombstones. An old
Scotsman is cutting the grass, but rests long
enough to give you some selections from Burns
and reminds you of some of the interesting events
connected with the country in Burns' day. The
poet's tomb is close by the old kirk. It is a very
imposing one, and finely situated ; only a marble
bust of the poet is placed within the walls. From
Ayr to the old homestead is two miles ; driving
out by the inland road and returning by the sea

163
road helps make the pilgrimage one of the most
pleasing of all we have taken. Our route from
Ayr to London brought us to Liverpool and
Stratford. At Liverpool we tarried long enough
to visit the great docks and other interests well
worth a visit. The city is a victim of soft coal,
and in general is not over-clean. Stratford, how
ever, cleans off all the coal dust of Liverpool, and
affords rest and pleasure so tempting one is in
clined to prolong it indefinitely. Shakespeare
very kindly distributed himself over considerable
space while home. The house in which he was
born is in very good preservation, and being well
cared for. A fee of sixpence admits you to the
four principal rooms, and three officials receive
you in turn, and show and explain the several
rooms. It requires another sixpence to enter the
room used as a museum. The house he last lived
in is also standing, and some parts of it remain
as when occupied by him, and to that part a fee
of sixpence admits you. The house where he
courted Ann Hathaway is situated about two
miles out in the country, and is visited by hack
or on foot, and admission to the two rooms on
show in Ann Hathaway's cottage is secured on
payment of a fee of sixpence. I sat upon the
very bench William and Ann sat upon, and

164
looked into the same fire place, and perhaps
thought some of the same thoughts. The church
in which they both were buried, and where their
remains now rest, is in the town, and beautiful
for situation, one of the most beautiful churches
and churchyards we have seen. We gain en
trance to the church by payment of sixpence, and
can wander around, seeing the graves and old
records, or can follow a church rounder upon
payment of another fee. We put up at the Red
Horse Inn, where Washington Irving made his-
torical the old arm-chair, the poker and the
grandfather's clock, all of which are carefully
preserved and marked. The little parlor, twelve
feet square, is full of memories of his visits. The
fountain, given by George W. Childs, of Phila
delphia, is not only beautiful in itself, but doubly
so as being a testimonial to the poet and a me
mento of the Jubilee of the Queen. After seeing
most of the minsters and colleges of learning
and some watering places my time for starting
home had come, and after one year's absence the
water-way home seems most inviting, even
though the way will be rough and cause discom
fort.

CANADIAN ROCKIES
Field, B. C, 1912.
/y LIMBING up the side of Temple Mountain
1^ on our way skyward to Lake Louise while
the thunder and the lightning quivered us and the
wind chilled us and the rain wet us, the stage
suddenly stopped. To our inquiry "why stop so
sudden?" the driver answered "the only thing
we do quick out here is to stop." A climb of
nine hundred feet in three miles with ten passen
gers to pull and the mud six inches deep takes
time and necessitates several sudden stops.
We arrived safely and well shaken, and, of
course, disappointed because the clouds had come
down over the mountains and shut off the pic
ture we had come so far to see. At intervals of
time the sun fought his way through the mists
and let us get glimpses of the beautiful little lake
enclosed by mountains of great height on two
sides, a part of the great Victoria glacier at the
south end and the hotel on the north ; a wonder
ful picture by nature's wonderful artist.
This lake, at an elevation of six thousand feet,
is fed from lakes far up in the glacier whose
waters come down through subterranean pas
sages not yet found. Lake Louise's overflow

i66
makes the mountain river Louise which rushes in
furious hurry down into the River Bow, which
flows eastward, adding its contribution toward
making Banff at the eastern entrance to the Cana
dian Rockies the attracive place it is.
The "Dominion Park," similar to our Yellow
stone National Park, comprises 7,500 square
miles and includes the land upon which most of
the Canadian Pacific Railway hotels stand. So
much of the park as is in the Province of Brit
ish Columbia is as yet not subject to the rigid
game laws of the Dominion. This vast and grand
territory is preserved for all time and will be
saved to future generations for their enjoyment
and enlightenment.
Our arrival at Banff, though in a snow and rain
storm, was opportune so far as to our getting the
complete beauty of the mountain scenery. It is
the snow topped mountains that in the summer
sun and moonlight makes the completed nature
picture and this new fall of snow gave the needed
finish. Standing out on the eastern porch of the Banff
Spring Hotel, 4,600 feet above sea level, and
looking out upon mountains whose tops reached
from 2',ooo to 7,000 feet above you, some of them
covered with snow and hearing the mighty roar

167
of Bow River Falls hundreds of feet below you,
there comes first a feeling of awe followed
quickly by wonder and admiration. To some is
given the power to express it in words, but to
most of us there is but the inward enjoyment
which seems to lock up every effort of expres
sion except perhaps the commonplace. Who can
tell which has the greatest pleasure?
Banff is but the portal to this great storehouse
of nature. Kicking Horse Canyon, through
which the river of the same name rushes for
miles through heights of 7,000 to 10,000 feet and
along which the long snake-like train winds its
way, where the man on the rear platform of the
observation car is saying howdy to the engineer
as the engine enters the spiral tunnel under Cathe
dral Mountain just when it looked as if the en
gine was going to hit our end. Wonderful barri
cades of nature pierced by brainy man to benefit
and add to the enjoyment of mankind.
Just before entering these tunnels the great di
vide is passed where the source of the Bow River
starts eastward and that of Kicking Horse River
starts westward, where one of the big iron horses
is uncoupled and the east and the west train meet,
pass and start down hill.
Field is in the very heart of the great hills, a

i68
little town situated on the east bank of the river
at the foot of Mount Stephen, whose top is nearly
11,000 feet above sea level and at the southerly
end of the canyon. Here the travelers find one
of the best of the hotels.
Emerald Lake and Yoho Valley are reached
from here, each claimed by the booklets to be the
loveliest spot on earth. A carriage road has re
cently been constructed by the Dominion — it be
ing part of the park reservation — leading from
Field up to and through the valley, following the
Yoho River and Canyon. In many places the
grades are very steep and the narrow curves
overhanging precipices, down which you can see
for hundreds of feet, make the trip of 14 miles
each way as romantic and thrilling as anyone may
desire. The different view-points of the several
high mountains offer a variety of charm and de
light. In the valley the railway company has a
camp where one may stay all season or for lunch.
From this camp we look in wonder and praise
upon a nature picture of exceptional beauty. At
the north of the valley ten miles away Wapta
Glacier, a mountain of ice, the accumulation of
ages and the source of the Yoho River, shuts in
that end. Behind us is another great mountain,
snow-topped and feeding several cascades which,

169
while hurrying down to and across the valley to
help swell the river, add to the beauty of the
mountain side. In front we look upon the won
derful Takakaw, a wide ribbon of purest water
falling 1,200 feet, fed from a mountain of ice
4,000 feet higher up. Off to the south are
Stephen, Field and other mountains covered with
monster trees up to the tree line and then for
thousands of feet bare rock piled in fantastic
forms holding snow and ice several hundreds of
feet thick. Away up on those heights the sun
and cloud keep up a continual contest, giving to
the looker-on a constant change of color and
scene. At Glacier we are shut in close by the moun
tains of great heights. Eagle Peak is among
them, the home of the Eagle. The great glacier
Illicillewaet is seen from this point and those who
have time remain long enough to drive or walk
the two miles, in order to get a close experi
ence with one of the great rivers of ice in the
world. Many climb over its side ; some go to its
summit. From every point of view it offers
pleasure. The Canadian Rockies are by railroad
only about forty miles long. No one should give
less than one week to the seeing and enjoyment
of the many splendid charms so accessible.

170
No matter if one has seen equal scenery or
higher mountains or been at better hotels or
traveled on smoother railways or experienced
worse weather, the trip is full of interest, pleas
ure and surprise, and should be made by every
one who can spare the time to come by the Ca
nadian and return by the American Rockies.

ALASKA, 1912.
^f HIS is a country of bigness. The men are
^^ big in ideas and aims and hopes ; the dogs
are big in size and affection and energy. The
heavens are far bigger up here and the clouds
farther off. As the miner put it when I asked
him why he did not remain below — all country
south of this is below — "there is more room up
here." Until recent years, and especially since the gold
discoveries, the country which includes Yukon
Territory and Alaska proper was generally re
ferred to and thought of as Alaska, and a casual
look at the map has not served to change that
impression. The popular tourist trip, as known
by the advertised routes and as taken by the
majority of travelers, includes very little of
American Alaska.
From Seattle, the starting point of the Ameri
can boats, and Victoria, the Canadian boats, the
water trip is, in round numbers, one thousand
miles up the inside passage. For one-half this
distance the route is in Canadian waters. On the
west side is Vancouver Island, on the east side
British Columbia.
Vancouver Island is nearly four hundred miles
long, sixty wide, and is as yet not one-half dis-

172
covered, much less opened up. The inland pas
sage at places is very narrow, while at others it
is an inside sea. There is much talk of connect
ing the mainland of British Columbia with Van
couver Island by bridge over the Seymour Nar
rows, and so bring the capital city, Victoria, in
communication by railroad. These narrows are
very dangerous for navigation and for that rea
son add something to the interest of the trip
to Alaska. It was here the steamer Spokane was
wrecked in June, 191 1, and where other boats
have from time to time in the past come to an
end. The conditions of tide and current are such
that it is at all times risky, but at particular stages
of water not only very dangerous but foolhardy
to attempt the passage. Another similar dan
ger is in the Wrangle Narrows in the Alaska
waters. We left Vancouver on the Victoria Line Cana
dian steamer Princess Mary, a new ship, making
her first trip north; steel construction, hot and
cold water in every room, electric lights, wireless
equipment and all the other modern comforts. It
is a risk as to weather, with the odds in favor of
fog and rain, but good fortune came with us,
keeping sunshine all the way by day and moon
light by night, so that our eyes and kodak were

173
all the time busy. It was even necessary for a
ship's officer to tell us when to go to> bed. Along
the Yukon it is necessary to keep the chickens in
dark cellars during the summer to prevent them
dying off for want of sleep.
Alert Bay, on the northeasterly coast of Vart*
couver Island, is a very old Indian settlement
Where the Totem Pole is more in evidence than
at any of the other places. The Totem Pole is the
family tree of the Indian, the record being carved
and represented by animal or bird. The raveri
and the bear are the emblems most frequently
represented in the character of the carving.
Where these two are seen on the same pole it
shows that the husband and wife belong to one
of the two families so represented. The pole of
poles usually stand in front of the dwelling. The
pole is one good-sized log set upright and varies
In height from tefl feet. Some are hollowed out
partly and used as a burial place. The carving,
of course, depends upon the skill of the artist.
At this town thefe is a very important mission
settlement which includes a trades school. There
is as the main industry a salmon cannery and a
small sawmill. While the steamer discharges and
takes on mail and freight thefe is ample time
allowed for passengers to go ashore and visit

'74
the several points of interest.
The scenery all the way is grand, but it is espe
cially so after crossing Dixon Entrance and
Alaska is reached. The oldest town in Alaska
is the first stop made in the United States. The
port of entry is here. The town is picturesque,
but not as pretty as its Indian name would sug
gest — Ketchikan. We were passed by the genial
old doctor and allowed to go ashore, where we
got snapshots of totem poles and saw dirty In
dians dressed in modern clothing. The town is on
the hillside. A bank, big drug store, sawmills,
postoffice and several small shops, with dwellings
clinging to the hill, built hit-and-miss, make up
the place.
At Fort Simpson, the last stop on the Canadian
side, there are several very interesting monu
ments erected to Indian chiefs. On one is in
scribed the old chief's last wish i.e., that God
would let him die at least five hours away from
any human habitation, so that he might have a
good start for his happy home before his body
was found. He got his wish.
It looks out of the order of things to find that
a part of the ship's cargo discharged along this
route is ice. We have always thought of this
country as being frozen up and in for most of

i?5
the year, the fact being that the winter is not cold
enough to provide ice for the ordinary needs.
Our ship delivered ice as far north as Port Sim-
son. The most alive town along the way is the
new city of Prince Rupert, which is the Pacific
coast terminal of the Grand Trunk Pacific rail
way, the continuation of the present Grand
Trunk. This extended road will open up the
great central sections of Alberta and British Co
lumbia provinces and bring the Orient at least five
hundred miles nearer to Canadian shores. The
way out from this city is through the Dixon pas
sage to the sea. The Dixon passage divides
Canada and Alaska.
Crossing the Charlotte Sound and Dixon Pas
sage one has a taste of real ocean travel where
and when, with a fair wind blowing, most of the
passengers find the cabin very attractive. High
sea and small ships make a complete combination
for a reasonable amount of misery. These places
are occasionally so bad the ships must lay in shel
ter until conditions of wind and sea moderate.
On the morning of the fifth day we arrived at
Skaguay, where during the gold stampede in 1898
twenty or more thousand people made a thriving
city, and from where the thousands of seekers
for gold started their trying passage over the
White Pass, has now retrograded to a town of

i?6
less than three thousand population and Unless
some new interest be soon started there will be
dry rot firmly fixed. This town is the gateway
into the Yukon Territory and the western part
of Alaska. Skaguay means "the place of the
north wind." Located at the mouth of the river
of the same name and at the foot of the canyon,
surrounded on three sides by mountains made
Wonderfully interesting by snow peaks, cascades
&nd glaciers. It is the place from which, after
a short stay, to start by rail into the interior
country. Before the White Pass Railroad Dyea was the
starting point over the Chilkoot Pass trail, the
White Pass trail succeeded it mainly as over it
Wagons could be used for ten miles to White Pass
city. From it pack horses were used. The diffi
culties of this trail can be well understood by
watching it from the train. The horrors of it
have been told over and over, but you get the
reality of it when told, as it was to us, by those
Who experienced it.
The objective point at first was Bennet Lake,
at the head of which scows and all kinds of
craft that could be floated were made and sold,
of course, at high prices, and in these the gold
hunters floated down through Bennet Lake into

177
Taku and Tagish on through Marsh Lake, and
so on to the upper Yukon down to Dawson, where
the Klondike River took them into the Klondike
field. Later on, the Atlin fields were discovered, and
that took the new stampede off the trail to Ben
net from Log Cabin on to the Atlin trail, south
easterly. The man who discovered gold in that
section has a monument in the cemetery between
the towns of Atlin and Discovery. In that ceme
tery are buried only three who died a natural
death — it is a large and well filled cemetery.
The man who built the first cabin in Discovery
and who struck it rich was our driver and guide
to Discovery and Spruce Creek. He now makes
his living by driving, and there are others. Along
these creeks are dredges and machinery repre
senting millions of money put into prospective
riches, and these are rotting and rusting. These
with the cemeteries and the bones of the horses
and the wrecks of cabins (Discovery had a popu
lation of 20,000; now 2,000) tell the story.
The White Pass railroad, following the course
of the Skaguay River and canyon and the old
White Pass trail, winds and climbs for twenty
miles up three thousand feet of the grandest
scenery to be seen anywhere. Wild flowers and

i78
wild berries are in abundance, snow within reach
of your hand, glaciers across the canyon down
which you look from the car window a half mile,
cascades so frequent you grow dizzy looking,
and then snow peaks thousands of feet above and
miles across, with a view of the sea where a
curve around Observation Point opens up the
path to look. The construction of this road is
said to be one of the greatest engineering feats.
Be that as it may, it certainly offers the traveler
an easy way to see some of the greatest of na
ture's marvelous scenery. Up on this summit
fly day and night two flags, one the United States
and the other the Canadian flag. Between the
two the boundary line of territory of the respec
tive governments runs, and from this point we
enter Canadian territory and travel four hundred
miles before getting into Alaska again. On the
way to White Horse you see Lake Bennett, the
Atlin country and lakes, Caribou and White
Horse, the upper waters of the mighty Yukon
River and gather some impression of what a vast,
roomy world there is in the far northwest where
the midnight sun is seen and daylight continues
for twenty-four hours, where one may see as we
saw, a sunset, a moonrise and a great spectacular
rainbow at evelen o'clock at night.

179
Up there in that land of anywhere, whether
in the valley or on any one of the lakes which are
also surrounded by great mountains and glaciers,
there is no cramped conditions, rather there
comes upon the visitor to these wonders of na
ture a feeling of loneliness. At present but a
very few of the great multitude of travelers
come among these. When they are better known
and the means of reaching them are improved,
travel will tend toward this vast and beautiful
rugged country. Those who came now meet
with some of the men and women who were the
trail-makers of thirteen years ago, and from them
hear interesting facts that surpass all of the sto
ries we have read, written — as several of the
pioneers said to us — by persons who never saw
the trail. These are the people who want the
country opened up by our government and who
are not slow in saying that large corporations
with large capital must be encouraged to under
take the task.
We were taken by boat right to a mountain of
solid copper worked now only enough to hold
the claim and until transportation facilities are
possible the mass of copper remains as valuable
as the great glacier, not far off, which has the
advantage of being more pleasing to look at.

i8o
There is more money prospectively in hay, which
sells now at $100 per ton, when the country opens
up, than in mining ore. Several men told me
they had paid as high as $300 a ton for hay at
Skaguay. From conversation with persons who have
made Alaska their home it is evident that there
is a spirit of Alaska similar to the spell of Egypt
that once imbibed cannot be resisted. These de
clare that they would not live elsewhere

A Night on the Red Desert in Wyoming
In 1914
^fl* HE pleasure of an automobile trip depends
^^ very largely on the point of view and, to
some extent, perhaps, to location.
A big auto with five persons, a big trunk and
necessary bags and wraps, is a load for a 100-
mile trip across the Red Desert in Wyoming,
winding its way among the sage brush to the
annoyance of the coyotes, jackrabbits, sage chick
ens and prairie dogs (the only evidences of life,
outside the car, along the way), indicated an
ideal outing. And what could surpass it? What
bracing air! What a wonderful sky! What a
vast country to look upon as a picture of rugged,
uncultured nature ! How near the mountains
seem, but how long the way is to them.
We left Rock Springs, where the great coal
mines of the Union Pacific Railroad are located,
for our destination soon after the arrival of the
train at mid-day. Starting at an elevation of
6,000 feet, we later reach 8,000, but not so soon
as we expected.
Much of our way runs along the old Oregon
trail. To the man who knows the road it is easy
to follow, but not to the stranger. The ranches

along the route, which are stopping places, are
from ten to twenty miles apart. A passing
thought of possible accident is given to this fact,
and when a blowout happens the thought assumes
a serious turn; but we are quickly out of that
trouble and safely cross the Big and Little Sandy
rivers and are two-thirds over our road when
we came to Dry Sandy.
Dry Sandy River sometimes is wet as we found
it. The rain the day before had soaked the sandy
banks and expecting to get over safely we were
brought to a sudden stop, for the front wheels
sank in the soil to the hubs. Quickly backing out
we tried another place, and there the rear wheels
went into a bed of quicksand, where every effort
to go ahead or back sent the car deeper in.
It was 7 o'clock and no help nearer than twelve
miles at Atlantic, a quiet and sometimes peaceful
ranch. As our driver, the owner of the car, left
us on his lonely tramp to secure help, we calcu
lated that he would arrive at the ranch by II
o'clock and probably return by I o'clock — per
haps 2, as it proved to be. We settled down to
the fact that it was ours to spend the night on
Red Desert.
The Sunset was a wonderful picture with a
glorious after glow. We wished the moon was in

183
the second quarter instead of the last. She did
not climb over the mountains until n o'clock.
Darkness came over the desert and the coyotes,
always hanging about, began their dismal call,
which, mixed in with other sounds, adds to the
interest. We gathered grease wood and sage
brush and started a fire ; then spread our robes
and adjusted ourselves about the fire for frost is
appearing and the cold air is penetrating. Every
incident of our past experiences in travel is gone
over as we watch the stars appear one by one in
their proper places in the sky, and call to the
moon to hurry up. A friendly bird, a tip-up,
stays by us all night, cheering us with its friendly
chatter. Our noon meal at Rock Springs Hotel seems
a long time ago event, and some of our party
begin to talk of banquets in the past and wish
now for even a "Uneeda."
Sounds carry so in the desert that long before
we can see our help coming we hear the driver
urging the horses and we shout our welcome ;
but alas for us, the team they have brought re
fuses to pull an auto. Every effort to get them
to change their mind fails and the verdict of the
rancher was : "We must go back and get bigger
and better horses."

Three of our party crowd into the small wagon
and start for the ranch. Twelve miles through
a desert, up hill all the way, behind horses, is
a long ride, but the moon now lights our way
and when after three hours we see the smoke
coming out of the ranch house chimney and the
sun is just waking up, scattering his glory over
a sky without a cloud, we forget for a time that
we are cold, weary and hungry. We exclaim
over the wonderful effect of nature and then
come down to earth and calculate how long the
cook will be making coffee and preparing those
eggs and that bacon.
The ranch hotel is a one-story log building.
We enter a large living room in which are two
beds, just vacated, a big stove in which we soon
have a fire going, a large sink with running water
used for general toilet, with a common towel and
comb and brush. Back of this room is a long
dining-room, and off these two rooms are smaller
bedrooms. Sheep herders, ranchers, freighters
and prospectors are the usual patrons of these
places, the ranch owner and his cowboys, bronco
busters and storekeepers are the regulars (no
women are about) and they all come in to make
their toilet when the bell rings for breakfast.
At the long table covered with oilcloth we all

photo by author
Mrs. A. — Sawing Wood for the Ranch Cook
Mr. B. — Watching the Work

i85
gather, the cook's order is "sit down, and reach
and help yourself." It isn't a Waldorf crowd
or service, but the coffee is good and hot and the
eggs and griddle cakes are good or seem to be.
We see the rescue crew start off for our outfit,
which the ranch owner says will pull the auto out
of Dry Sandy or destroy it.
At noon the auto arrives and we are off for
our ranch far up in the mountains, where rugs
are on the floor and white linen is on the table
and brook trout and sage chickens are served a
la mode, with cream and milk or coffee and tea ;
where the garden "eats" are plenty and the air
invigorating and nights cold enough for blankets,
while the stars are almost within reaching
distance. The cook at the ranch required that we should
keep him supplied with wood and some fish and
sage chickens, which we undertook to do.
The way out of a desert depends on the guide
or driver of a car whose general knowledge may
not always be safe. All desert roads save those
marked by poles look alike and are visible for
only a short distance. The main highway is
of course fairly distinct, but does not differ very
much from others ; a slight deviation will take
one far astray.

1 86
We left on our return trip by a route different
from the one we went in on and to avoid a bad
gully the driver started by a back trail which,
if followed correctly, would have taken us into
the main road. Our suggestion that a certain
road was ours to follow was not accepted, and
only after three miles on the wrong road had
been followed did our opinion prevail and a re
turn made ; we were headed for a forest reserve
miles off our route.
Sage brush does not make the most attractive
scenery, but it keeps the sand from flying, and
it teems with life and affords pasture for sheep
and cattle, and a shelter and food for the sage
chicken and prairie dogs as well as a hiding place
for the coyote. The desert, like the sea, is far
from being level ; its billows are stationary, how
ever. The distant mountain ranges, snow topped and
piercing the sky add to the grandeur and impres-
siveness, and no doubt help to keep some of the
sheep herders in their right mind.
Many of these men who spend most of the year
on the desert with bands of sheep have lost their
minds because of this loneliness. The law now
requires that with every band there must be not
less than two men ; a band of sheep numbers not

t HOTO BY AUTHOR
Getting Sage Chickens in Red Desert, Wyoming

i87
less than three thousand and to be a paying prop
osition one must own more than one band — one
of the men is the herder who with his dog looks
after the sheep, the other man is the camp fixer.
His duty is to move the camp, supply the wood
and cook the meals. The tent is on wheels fitted
with a stove, bed and table; some have a book
shelf with books and magazines.
To watch the herder with his dog control a
band of sheep is interesting. Generally the man
is far from his dog and by signals he directs the
dog, who never fails to carry them out; these
bands are driven over Government land so that
pasture is not expensive. The main risk to the
owner is a severe winter where the sheep are far
from the railroad and food cannot be taken to
them. The wool pays all expenses, leaving the
sales and increase the profit.
This country being a sheep section, we do not
see many cattle or horses. We scare up many
flocks of roosters of the sage chicken family.
These keep by themselves except in mating sea
son and in great numbers. One must be very
hungry to kill one for food, or must be fond of
the taste and odor of sage. The old hens and
young chickens keep together and during the mid
dle of the day are found near the streams.

i88
One of the interesting sights in these western
deserts is the freighter that crosses in all direc
tions with freight for the ranches, mines and
hamlets. A train of three big wagons, one the
driver's home, pulled by eight to ten horses man
aged by one man, is the outfit. A ton to a horse
is the maximum load, and the distance varies
from thirty to one hundred miles.
They have regular camping places, mostly near
streams, where they hobble the horses and let
them forage for their food, very little grain is
fed during the summer. The freighter varies his
rations of bacon with brook trout and sage
chicken caught or shot along the way. A rod
and gun and a good supply of bailing wire are the
important items of help and protection ; bailing
wire will help one out of every break except an
auto tire or a supply of gasolene.
All through the country are mines of different
kinds. Going down in a mine in a big steel bucket
(just big enough to let you crouch down) to a
depth of 500 feet with no company but a lighted
candle is a sensation that acts differently with
each person who indulges. You slide down an
incline of 45 degrees and several times think the
bucket will roll around, and you wonder if there
is no bottom to the shaft.

i8g
Visitors are tfeated with some consideration
and for them the bucket is let down slower than
for the others, but with that the descent toward
his satanic majesty's regions seemed rapid. The
men working at the 200- foot level reported that
when one of our party went past their station
they heard language that was not regulation Sun
day School style, and they concluded that he was
rehearsing some of the language he expected to
use below.

PIKE'S PEAK AND OTHER PLACES
||^ IKE'S PEAK OR BUST !" is as appro-
liv priate now as in the frontier days. The
rush for front seats on the cogwheel rail
road up the mountain, begins early in the day.
The tourist season is on, and the ordinary trav
eler, who likes ease and comfort, is in the minor
ity. Half way up the hill the conductor calls
out, "Folks, we are now passing through Hell
Gate into a colder clime beyond," and when the
grade of twenty-five per cent, around Breezy
Point is accomplished and the cold blasts of the
snow are experienced the announcement of the
official that you are now as near Heaven as any
railway in the world can take you, and that if you
do not like the climate you may use the Devil's
Slide at your right for a quick descent to the
warmer level, a general move is made; but a
glance down forces us to decide to bear the chills
we have. At the elevation of fourteen thousand
two hundred feet, with a clear sky over the world,
one has a picture to look upon that pen may not
describe. One hundred miles on every side, we
are told, is the limit of vision, and within that
range are snow-covered mountains, lakes and
towns. At the top of Pike's Peak upon a great rock

tgt
thefe has been placed a bronze tablet in com
memoration of General Pike and his associates
who, while they never saw the peak,, pointed out
the way to others who came after and who per
ished that it could be climbed ; a board tablet fast
in the rocks tells of the girl who was eaten by
mountain rats— a very fitting companion to the
more substantial monument to Pike. To be eaten
by mountain rats is almost as unusual as to dis
cover one of the highest of mountains, and so
these remarkable events are made known to the
people of coming time. Ascending and descend
ing this mountain one has all the thrills and chills
necessary to satisfy the most exacting.
The swelling head, the hammering at the ears,
the quick pumping of the heart and to some the
bleeding of the nose are among the delightful sen
sations that are added to the overhanging rock,
the deep canyons and the rushing streams that
seem to want to catch you. Manitou, at foot of
Pike's Peak, has become quite a large town where
the tourists gather by the thousands ; there are
perhaps two really good hotels, but the "merry-
go-rounds" and the several mineral springs with
the usual side show attractions, with numberless
lunch rooms, occupy the town. From here the
donkey trips are made over the many trails and

192
the drives into the Garden of the Gods and other
wonderful places where the professional picture
taker lays for his prey. It's wonderful how many
persons want their friends to know that they have
stood on Steamboat Rock beside the balanced
rock in the Garden of the Gods.
At Denver we heard a celebrated preacher de
liver a thunder storm against the "Modern Men
ace" (the Mormon Church) during which we
really feared that our flag was going to be blotted
out and some other things of evil were soon to
happen. Some days after on a bright but fear
fully hot Sunday we were of a congregation of
ten thousand beings in the great tabernacle at
Salt Lake City where one-half of, that great
throng was made up of scholars and teachers of
the Morman Sunday schools, each one carrying
a real flag and every girl having in addition a
wreath of flowers about her head.
A celebrated soprano sang the solo of the song
"The Flag Without a Stain" and then led the
chorus when the five thousand voices joined in
and waving five thousand flags. We began to
think that perhaps the day of danger might be
postponed for awhile.
Salt Lake City has been so transformed that
one cannot connect it with former days. Every-

193
thing that goes to make a splendid city is in evi
dence, and every one contributes his or her mite
to make the "City Beautiful," which is now be
coming a convention and tourist city. The barker
on the sight seeing car calls special attention to
the fine residence of the man who has buried more
wives than any other man in Salt Lake City and
then adds: "He is our leading undertaker."
The trip from Salt Lake City to the western
entrance of Yellowstone Park is made in one
night and is very comfortable. After an early
and good breakfast at Yellowstone we are sorted
out into parties of eight and ten and assigned to
stages for the four days' trip. Our company
proved to be a very congenial one with a little
unleaven in the person of a Christian Science
teacher who took herself a little too seriously,
even when the mosquitoes were the most in evi
dence. The wonders of the Yellowstone Park
are as much of a marvel on a second visit as they
were when first seen. Before we were on the
road an hour two magnificent deer met us face
to face in the middle of the road and thereafter
the interest increased — snow-covered mountains
in the distance, roaring waterfalls at our feet,
boiling springs and roaring geysers on every side

194
keep us company and help us ignore the biting
mosquito. At the Old Faithful Inn (a gem of architecture
in logs) we watch a dozen gushers play at short
intervals. Old Faithful every seventy minutes
does his great act and when the great searchlight
is turned upon him as a good-night for the guests
nothing more impressive could be asked. The
canyon which is kept for the last night is to
many the most beautiful and wonderful of all
and is left with the greatest reluctance. At Nor
ris Basin, the last stopping place for lunch, we
were part of a thrilling experience. The old
Growler Geyser — correctly named — got on a ram
page just as a large party led by the guide ap
proached it, and in a moment every one was lost
in dense hot steam. A frantic father calling
"where is my kid ?" was caught by the guide just
as he was stepping into that fearful hole, out
of which he never would have come. When the
demon quieted down and cooled off the "kid"
was found, but there was no fatted calf killed —
but on the contrary.

A Man Among the College Girls
MAVE you ever been the only man in a gath
ering of college girls at chapel whose ag
gregate number was fourteen hundred? If you
were you did not have sufficient control of your
self to get away by a side door.
I was — quite recently — induced to attend early
morning chapel at — never mind where — a sopho
more took me, and took me into rubber row —
rubber row is the front row of seats in the gal
lery set apart to the freshmen, so that from that
point of observation they can observe the beha
vior of their elders and learn wisdom for several
uses in their future college life — they learn some
other things, too.
I don't mind being in a crowd of say a dozen
girls, college or otherwise, but fourteen hundred !
It seemed as if most of them were looking right
at me. I knew I had no business there and
wanted to "flunk,' but my hostess nudged me and
whispered "bluff it out." I did and soon began
to take notice, and found a lot of notice too. At
a signal on the organ everybody stands, while the
venerable president comes down the main aisle,
mounts the platform and greets the faculty with
a courtly bow and then faces the girls — he is
used to it — and graciously bows to them, after

196
which the exercises proceed. It was a great sight,
one perhaps not duplicated elsewhere. Every
American girl is attractive and a bunch of four
teen hundred can't be described correctly, and it
is just as well not to try it, as the home folks
might be making inquiries. I thought the girls
were looking at me because my hair was combed,
of course I may have had more time than most
of them. I didn't have a sweater or big cloak
to cover me and I was reasonably carefully
dressed. Most freshmen were, but they soon
"cut" that practice and begin to "flunk" appear
ance except when their "fusser" or the other girl's
"fusser" is in evidence. "Sure" I know what a
"fusser" is. I was taken to call on some young
ladies at one of the campus houses. We were
asked to go into a side room because one of the
girls had a "fusser" in the reception room. Nat
urally I assumed that papa had come on to in
quire into things and was making matters warm.
Curiosity prompted me to look and I learned
something. Papa doesn't sit up alongside and
hold the album open when inquiring into things.
The man was just the usual young fellow with
that degree of courage that takes him to call upon
a college girl at her college house. It isn't every
fellow who has that kind of courage. College

i97
slang as used by the girls is classic and, when you
get to know it, quite effective. "Sure" is yes,
"flunk" is to fail, "cut" is to stay away from,
"stung" is to have the professor spring a hard
question on you, "bat" is to take a tramp, etc. I
couldn't take the entire course in three days, but
succeeded fairly well in polishing up my English.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 02971 8575

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