TRAVELS / I N KAMTSCHATKA, DURING THE YEARS ljSy AND 1788. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF M. DE LESSEPS, CONSUL OF FRANCE, INTERPRETER TO THE COUNT DE LA PEROUSE, NOW ENGAGED IN A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY COMMAND OF HIS MOST CHRISTIAN MAJESTY. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOLUME II. LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH-YARD. 1790. CONTENTS TO VOL. II. Departure from Pouftamfk Pag« i Find fome concealed provifions 4 Painful travelling 5 Am guilty of an imprudence that injures my health 6 Cured by exercife - 9 Meet three convoys fent to M. Kafloff IO River Penguina - 12 Arrival at Kaminoi ib Koriacs falfely accufed of rebellion «¦ - *3 Defcription of Kaminoi 16 Baidars, or large boats 17 M. Schmaleff is obliged to quit me 18 Gives me a foldier named Yezor-GolikofF lb Tempeft - 20 Arrival of feven Tchouktchis ' - 21 Converfation with their chief 23 Account of two women who accofted me 3* Arrival at the camp of the Tchouktchis 36 Defcription of the camp 39 Drefs of the women - 42 Features - - 43 Commerce pf the Tchouktchis 44 a a Arrival IV CONTENTS. Page Arrival at Pareine - -46 Hiftory of a woman of Ingiga - - 47 Alarmed by a Koriac chief, who wiflies to detain me 49 Departure from Pareine - 59 Meet a horde of wandering Koriacs 63 Conteft with my people refpe&ing the weather 65 Surprife them by the ufe I made of my compafs 67 Terrible hurricane - - 70 Arrival at Ingiga - - - 74 Account of a Koriac prince called Oumiavin - 79 Extent of the country - - - 83 Population - - ib Manners of the fixed Koriacs - - 84 Their inflexible courage - - 85 Mode of life - - - 87 Occupations - - 88 Food - - - 89 Drink - - - - 90 Features - - - - 92 Cradle in which the women carry their children 93 Marriages - - ib Funerals - - - - 96 Religion - - - 100 Idiom - - - 105 Preparations for my departure from Ingiga - 106 Superftition of my foldiers - - 113 Departure from Ingiga - - - 115 Defcription of a Koriac fledge - - 117 Mode of travelling with deer - 122 In danger of my life, from being my own charioteer 124 Receive a vifit and prefent from prince Amoulamoula 130 Arrived CONTENTS. V Page Arrival at the yourt of Oumiavin's brother 132 Details refpe£ting my hoft_ *34 Flocks of rein deer — H3 Yourts of the wandering Koriacs H7 Hot fprings of Tavatoma 151 Mountain of Villegui 154 Oftrog of Toumane - - - *S7 Temped - - - 160 Take flielter in a deferted yourt 161 Plan of my journey - 168 Bay of Iret - - 170 Arrival at Yamfk - 172 Drefs of the wandering Toungoufes i74 Mountain called Baboufchka, or grand-mother 177 Oftrog of Srednoi - - 180 Of Siglann - 181 Ola, a Toungoufe oftrog 183 Toungoufe yourts - ib Coquetry of the women 185 Features and character of the Toungoufes 186 Perplexities to which we are reduced by the ice being broken up - 188 Obliged to pafs over a cornice of ice that adhered to a rock - - - 190 Stop at the houfe of a Yakout 197 Fort of Taouflc - 200 Village of Gorbe - ib Oflne - 202 Arrival at Okotflc - 204 Vifit Mrs. KafloiF 208 Impoflibility of procuring deer 210 Defcription VI CONTENTS. Page Defcription of Okotlk - - - 211 Departure from Okorfk - - - 214 Dangerous fituation on a river - - 215 Remonftrance of one of my guides - - 217 Obliged to return to Okotflc - - 219 News of the arrival of M. Kafloffat Ingiga - 225 Hiftorical details refpecting the commerce of Okotik 227 Its government - 242 Expedition of M. Billings - 246 Breaking up of the river Okhota - - 249 Famine occafioned by the length of winter - 252 Preparations for my departure - - 254 Defcription of my wretched needs - - 257 Salt work twelve werfts from Okotlk - - 259 Particulars' of my journey - - 260 Manner of our halt - - 265 Food of the Yakouts - - 269 Meet a caravan of merchants - - 270 In danger of being drowned - - 272 Arrival at Ouratlkoi-plodbifche - - 277 Cuftom obferved by the Yakouts when they leave a horfe in the high way - - 279 Accident that happens to Golikoff - - 280 Arrival at the crofs of Yudoma - 281 Difficulties we experience from the wretched con dition of the boats - 282 A cataract - - 286 Arm of the Yudoma, called the Devil's arm - 192 Enter the river Maya - 294 Meet nine boats loaded with military ftores for M. Billings' expedition - * - - 295 A fortunate CONTENTS. Vtl Page A fortunate fupply of horfes - - 296 Yakout forigs - - - 298 Pariiculars of my journey as far as Amgui - 299 My reception at Amgui - - 301 Defcnptipn of a Yakout yourt - - 302 A drink called koumouifs - - 303 Cuftoms and manners of the Yakouts - 304 Fables - 308 Funerals - - - 310 Wooden images of a malicious divinity - 314 Summer habitations of the Yakouts - - 315 Arrival at Yarmangui - - 3 16 Width of the Lena at Yakoutfk - - 317 Arrival at Yakoutfk - - - 318 Sup with M. Billings - - ' 319 Defcription of Yakoutfk - - 321 Inhabitants - 322 , Navigation on the Lena - - 323 Perfons employed in this fervice from ftage to ftage 324 Town of Oleckma - - 328 Meet a Toungoufe - - ib Toungoufe canoes - - 329 Vifit a horde of thefe people - - 330 Particulars refpe&ing them - - 331 Town of Pelodui - 334 OfKiringui - 336 Particulars of the Bratflcis - - 338 Arrival at Irkoutfk - 339 Commerce carried on between Ruflia and China 345 DefertofBarabnifkoi-ftep r - 362 Adventure in this defett - - 364 Arrival Vlll CONTENTS. Page Arrival at Tomflc *¦ - . 366 AtToboHk - 369 At Catherinebourg - q-r0 Head drefs of the TchferemifTes - . 371 Town of Cafan - - _ 572 An accident that endangers my life - 373 Nijenei-novogorod - - _ 777 Arrival at Mofcow - - ib AtPeterfburg - - 379 At Verfailles - - * _ _ 381 Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, Koriac, TchOuk- tchi, and Lameut languages - - 383 Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale language- at St. Peter and St. Pauls, and at Paratounka <-, 404 TRAVELS TRAVELS I N KAMTSCHATKA, &c. jfTLT length the 18 arrived, and I took leave of M. Kafloff. I lhall pafs over our adieux ; it will be fuppofed that they were equally affectionate and diftrefling. L de parted from Pouftaretfk at eight o'clock in the morning, in an open fledge drawn by feven dogs, which I drove myfelf ; the fol dier appointed to efcort me had eight har- riefled to his ; and we were preceded by a guide chofen from the inhabitants of this hamlet *, whofe fledge, loaded with the re mainder * During my ftay a.t Pouftaretfk, the governor had dif- miffed our Kamtfchadale guides?* Some of them belonged vol. n. B to 2 TRAVELS mainder ©f my effects, and our provifions, was drawn by a team of twelve. I was accompanied alfo by M. SchmalefF and the fubaltern officers of his fuite ; but inftead of travelling together * as had been agreed, as far as Ingiga^ we feparated a few days after. Upon leaving Pouftaretfk, we defcended the gulf. We proceeded at firft with toler able eafe ; the ice was folid and even, and in a few hours we arrived at the mouths there our progrefs was attended with more difficulty. Obliged to travel upon the fea without leaving the coaft, we were every moment interrupted with piles of ice, that appeared like fo many rocks* againft which we were to be dafhed to pieces. It was impoffible to avoid them by turning and to the environs of Bolcheretfk, and were four hundred leagues diftant from their home. Thefe poor creatures, almoft all their dogs having died of fatigue and hunger, were obliged to return on foot. winding ; IN KAMTSCHATKA. S winding ; an unequal chain of thefe little mountains extended all along the coaft, and intercepted our paflage; we had no re- fource but to attempt to furmount them, at the rifk of being overturned every ftep. More th'an once, in thefe falls, I had a nar row efcape from being dangeroufly wound ed. My mufquet, which was fattened to my fledge, was bent to the fhapei iof a bow ; many b. of my companions were feverely bru'rfedi and not ah individual came off unhurt. In the dufk of the evening we arrived at a hamlet fituated upon the border of the fea, confrfting of two yourts. and three ba- lagans, in a very wretched condition, and totally deferted. The only perfon who lived in the yourt which we entered, had fled upon our approach *. I was informed * All the wanderings Koriacs avoided us in the fame. manner, that they might not be obliged to affift us. B z that* 4 TRAVELS that this man was a chaman or magician: feized with terror at the news that we were to arrive the next day, he flew im mediately for refuge to the Oluterians *, where he would probably remain till M. Kafloff had pafied. The Coflac who gave me this informa tion, had been fent forward the evening previous to our departure from Pouftaretfk, by M. Schmaleff, with orders to flop at this hamlet till we fhould arrive, and en deavour in the mean time to difcover fome concealed ftore of fifh. This precaution was very ferviceable to us. The Coflac, upon our arrival, condudled us to a cave which we found to be well flocked. I took a tolerable portion, having brought from * Thefe people are at the fouth of the Tchouktchis, upon the eaftern coaft. Pouftaretfk, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 5 Pouftaretfk only provifion enough for two days. The 19, early in the morning we pur- fued our route. This day's journey was ftilj more fatiguing than the preceding one. The way was terrible. Twenty times I faw my fledge ready to be fhattered to pieces, which would certainly have been the cafe, if I had not at laft determined to proceed on foot. I was compelled to this, in order to guard myfelf againft the dan ger of being overturned, and thus was I obliged to, walk almoft the whole day ; but I only avoided one misfortune to. fall into another. In a few hours I felt myfelf fo fatigued that I was going to remount my fledge, when a fudden jolt inftantly turned it upon its fide, and effectually cooled my defire. I had no refource but to drag myfelf Non a$ B 3 well 6 TRAYELS well as I could. My legs bent under me, I was in a profufe perforation, and a burning thirft ftill added to my wearinefs. The fnow was a poor relief, and I had no-! thing elfe with which to quench my thirft, Unfortunately I perceived a little river.; aofolute neceflily conducted my fteps to it, and, without reflecting upon the confe- quences of my imprudence, I inftantly broke the ice, and put a piece into my mouth. This precipitation was purely mechanical, and I foon repented it. My thirft was re lieved ; but from the exceflive heat of which I before complained, I pafled to the con trary extreme ; a univerfal' chill feized me, and all my limbs trembled. The fharpnefs of the night increafed my agiieifh feeling, and my weaknefs at laft was fo extreme, that I was unable to pro ceed a ftep farther. I entreated my com panions to halt in the midft of this defert. They IN KAMTSCHATKA. 227 They complied out of pure civility to me, for the difficulty of procuring wood was otherwife a fufficient reafon to determine them to proceed. Scarcely could they collect enough to place under a kettle ; it eonfift- ed of a few little flirubs, fo green that it was almoft impoflible to make them burn. How happy were, we to fucceed lb far as to be able to make tea ! After drinking a few cups, I retired to my tent*, where I lay down upon a fmall mattrafs fpread upon the fnow, and covered myfelf up with a number of furs, in order to revive perfpiration. It was in vain ; I did not clofe my eyes during the whole night. To the anguifh of a dry and burning fe ver, were added a continual oppreffion, and all the reftlefliiefs peculiar to the firft fymp- toms of a diforder. I conceived myfelf, I * This lent was made of linen ; I had purchafed it of M, Vorokoff before I left Pouftaretfk. B 4 acknowlede* 8 TRAVELS acknowledge, to be dangeroufly ill, particu larly when I found, upon getting up, that I could not articulate a fingle found. I fuffered infinitely both in my breaft and throat ; the fever was not abated ; never- thelefs the idea that a longer halt in this place would be of no benefit to me, and that I could only hope for fuccour by pro ceeding, determined me to conceal my ex treme illnefs from M. Schmaleff. I was the firft to propofe going on, but in this I confulted my courage more than my ftrength. I had advanced but a few werfts, when my fufferings became infupportable. I was obliged to drive myfelf, and confequently to be in continual motion ; frequently alfo I was compelled from the badnefs of roads, cither to run by the fide of my fledge, or call to the dogs to make them proceed. My hoarfenefs prevented their hearing me ; and IN KAMTSCHATKA. £ and it was only by efforts that exhauft- ed my ftrength, and tortured my lungs, that I at laft fucceeded. This exercife however, painful as it was, proved falu- tary to me ; by degrees it created a per fpiration ; in the evening I could breathe more freely ; the fever left me ; I had no complaint but a violent cold, which was removed in a few days. Fatiguing exer cife was the only remedy I ufed, I took particular care to continue the perfpiration it occafioned, and to this I am perfuaded I owe the rapidity of my cure. My breaft however was fo fore, that I felt the effedts of it for a confiderable time. During this interval I had nothing to fuffer from the rigour of tempefts ; the air was calm, and the weather clear. We were bleffed with the fineft days of winter, or I ihould perhaps never again have feen my native country. Heaven feemed %o favour my lO TRAVELS my journey, that I might forget my fuf- ferings. The moft lively joy foon fucceeded to the forrow that had deprefled me. We met, in different detachments, three convoys fent by fergeant Kabechoff to M. Kafloff. This unexpe6ted fuccour gave me the more plea-^ fure, as the deplorable ftate in which I had left the governor, was continually recur ring to my mind. What a fudden change in his fituation ! He was upon the point of receiving a fupply of provifions, together with an hundred and fifty dogs well fed and well trained. He will .be able, faid I to myfelf, to proceed immediately on his jour ney ; and if I cannot flatter myfelf that I fhall fee him again, I know at leaft that he will be extricated from his embaraffment. This certainty relieved the anxiety, which I had felt on his account* The IN KAMTSCHATKA. 11 The foldier who conducted the convoys^ offered me part of his provifions ; but I re- fufed them. He had no profufion, and we were not in want. I detained him there fore as fhort a time as poflible, Before he quitted us, he told me that prince Eitel, or chief of the Koriacs of Kaminoi, who had been accufed of rebel lion, was advancing to undeceive the go vernor, and prove the jfalfehood of the charge. In purfuing our route, we perceived, be yond a fmall river bordered with fome fhrubs, a chain of fteep mountains, which it .was neceflary to climb one after the other, in order to defcend upon another river, called Talofka. Its banks diverged as it approached the fea ; they were well wooded, and I perceived fome trees of a tolerable fize. We left this river at a diftance from Kaminoi| 12 TRAVELS Kaminoi, in order to traverfe an extenfive heath, then a confiderable lake ; at length we croffed the river Pengina, almoft at its mouth, and in a direction from fouth-eaft to north-weft. Its breadth is ftriking, and the afpect of the heaps of ice that covered it, and which were of an extreme height, would have been ftill more piclurefque, if we could have taken a more convenient way ; but we had no choice, and were re duced to the heceflity of hoifting, as I may fay, our dogs and our fledges from heap to heap. The difficulty and flownefs of this manoeuvre is eafily conceived ; it required my utmoft exertion and care to get off un hurt. It was ftill near two hours before we reached Kaminoi, where we arrived the 24 before noon. We were received by the in habitants with the utmoft civility. In the abfence of Eitel, another prince called Eila, had IN KAMTSCHATKA. I3 had the command. He came to meet us with a Ruffian detachment, and we were conducted to the yourt of Eitel, which had been cleaned and prepared a long time for the reception of M. Kafloff. Eila conferred upon us every mark of refpect ; we had conftantly a centinel at our door, whofe orders were to open it to fuch perfons only as we had no reafon to dif- truft. This was not owing to any doubts we en tertained reflecting the report that had been fpread of the rebellion of the Koriacs ; it was evidently falfe *. Their behaviour to us, and the reception they had prepared * This report had gained credit from the falfe reprefen- tation of BogonofF, the engineer. He afferted, that me Koriacs had, by force of arms, oppofed his entrance into the river Pengina. When I mentioned it to them, they protefted, that fo far from oppofing the paflage of this en gineer, they had treated him during his ftay with great kindnefs and friendfhip- for 14, TRAVELS for the governor, plainly proved what was their difpofition at prefent. Nor is it to be prefumed that this was the effect of the arrival of the foldiers fent from Ingiga*. Their wretched condition was little calcu- , lated to awe men like the Koriacs, who are too little attached to life, I underftand, to be ever intimidated; and whom nothing can reftrain, if they have the leafi ground for difcontent. The fight however of the cannon, and of the Coffacs in arms, who had entered the village without announcing any hoftile in tention, gave them at firft fome alarm. Immediately advancing towards the fubal- tern officer who commanded the troop, they called upon him to declare, whether he was come to ftrike a blow at their liberty, and * This detachment had originally confifted of forty men; but at the requifition of KabechofF, ten Cofiacs were added to it,, who arrived at Kaminoi with the fup-! plies, which we have already mentioned. extirpate IN KAMTSCHATKA. 1£ extirpate them ; adding, that if fuch were the project of the Ruffians, the Koriacs would all die to a man, rather than fubmit. The officer removed their fears, by artfully anfyvering, that the occafion of his embafly ought not to alarm them ; that he was fent to meet M. Kafloftj which was an honour due to his rank, and prefcribed by the mi litary regulations of Ruflia towards-rtheir governors. This explanation was fufficient to remove their fufpicions ;.. and the Koriacs and Ruffians lived together upon terms of the beft underftanding. The confidence of the Koriacs was fo great, that they took no precautions againft a furprife, and .would have paid no attention to the continued abode of thefe foldiers among them,' but for a famine, which began to render fuch guefts burthenfome-. ->n I had intended to ftay no longer at Ka- minoi than was neeefiVy to reft my dogs j but l6 TRAVELS but on the night of the 24, the fky be came obfcured, and frequent gufts of wind threatened an approaching tempeft: the fear of encountering it in the open field, made me defer my departure. This oftrog is three hundred werfts from Pouftaretfk, and is fituated upon an emi nence near the fea coaft, and at the mouth of the river Pengina. It contains a great number of balagans and twelve yourts, a\\ of them very large, and built in a fimilar manner to thofe I have already defcribed. Though very near to one another, thefe habitations occupy a confiderable fpace of ground. The palifades which furround them are fortified with fpears, bows and arrows, and mufquets. They are thicker and higher than thofe placed round the Kamtfchadale yourts. Within thefe wretch ed fortifications the Koriacs confider them- fekes as impregnable. Here they repel the attacks IN KAMTSCHATKA. I7 attacks of their enemies, and among others, the Tchoukchis, who are the moft formida ble of their neighbours, both in point of number and courage *. The population at Kaminoi fcarcely ex ceeds three hundred perfons, including men, women, and children. I fhall fay no thing of the manners of the inhabitants till my arrival at Ingiga, which will I hope be in a few days. Before! left the village, I faw a dozen baidars, or boats, of different fizes, fimilar to the one I mentioned upon coming out of Khaluli-f-, except that they were better con- ftructed, and from their fuperior lightnefs, had the advantage in failing. I admired * Thefe people, informed that I was on my way to Ingiga, Would, I Was told, probably come to meet me, were it merely from a fpirit of curiofity. + See Vol. I. p. 225. vol. 11. C alfo l8 TRAVELS alfo their remarkable breadth. Many of thefe baidars would hold from twenty-five to thirty perfons. From the moment of our arrival, M. Schmaleff had forefeeh that he ftiauld not be able to accompany me from this village. Befet evening and morning by the whole detachment of foldiers, who came to acquaint him with the urgency of their wants, he confidered it as his duty not to abandon them, but to employ all the means which his office and his perfect knowledge of the country afforded him for procuring them afliftance. He was equally impatient with myfelf to get to Ingiga, where his brother had long expected him: but he refolved never'thelefs to let me depart without him. He informed me of this circumftance with regret, and gave me at the fame time a ^confidential foldier, named Tegor-Goli- IN KAMTSCHATKA. %g kojf*. He made me, he faid, in this man a valuable prefent J and we fhall find in the fequel that he was not deceived. This kindnefs increafed the. reluctance I felt at being obliged fo foon to leave this good and gallant officer. My gratitude would lead me to repeat in this place, what the Englifh have written of his humanity and politenefs ; but I leave to count de la Peroufe the pleafure of acquitting the, debt which every individual in the expedition owes to M. Schmaleff, for Jiis affiduity in rendering it, while at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, all the fervices that were in his power. I came out of Kaminoi at eight o'clock * My efcort thus confifted of four men ; this GolikofF, the foldier who had accompanied me from Pouftaretfk, and two others chofen from the detachment as my guides : I thought it neceffary however to add a Koriac guide, as I conceived that he muft be better acquainted with the road. C 2 in 20 TRAVELS •¦ in the morning of the 26, the weather being tolerably calmy. At the diftahce of fifteen werfts, I again met with the chain, of mountains which I had before paffed on this fide of the village. I traverfed them a fe- Cond time, and then croffed a river called Chefiokova, from a fubaltern officer of that name, who had been killed there at the head of a detachment fent to keep the re volted Koriacs in awe. Under advantage of the night the Koriacs had taken them by furprife upon the border of this river, and had not fuffered an individual to efcape: all the Ruffians were maffacred. I halted in the fame place. I was roufed from my fleep by the gufts of wind that blew with extreme violence. The clouds of fnow obfcured the air to + The fcarcity of dogs at Kaminoi, and the wretched {late of mine, had determined M. SchmalefF to let me have thofe belonging to the detachment. a degree, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 21 a degree, that it was not eafy to diftinguifh if it were day. In fpite of this, dreadful hurricane I refolved to proceed ; but I could not prevail on my guides to make even the attempt. They perfifted in not quitting the place, from the apprehenfion of lofing their way, and encountering other. dangers in fuch bad weather. Oppofed on all fides, I retired to my tent in no very pleafant humour. At noon I was agreeably confoled by the arrival of feven Tchoukchis. They were in fledges, fimilar to thofe of the wandering Koriacs, and drawn in like manner by rein deer. I received them under my tent, and invited them to remain till the ftorm was diffipated. Nothing could have flattered them more, as I judged from the air of fatisfaction which my offer imparted to the counte nance of every individual. C 3 Among 22 TRAVELS Among thefe Tchoukchis Was the chief of the horde, called TumntJ. He addreffed himfelf to me in order to exprefs the grati tude they felt for the reception I gave them. He affured me that ever fince they had heard of me, they had defired nothing fo ardently as my acquaintance, and had been greatly alarmed left they fhould lofe the opportunity. He added, that they would never forget either my perfon or my kind- neffes, and that they would give an exact ac count of every thing to their countrymen. I anfwered with a profufion of thanks, in forming them that I had been already made acquainted with their obliging curiofity, and that I had not been lefs defirous of the pre fent interview. After this preface, we talked upon gene ral fubjects, particularly upon their coun try and mine. My curiofity was equal to theirs, and the time paffed in perpetual queftions. IN RAMTSCHATKA. 23 queftions. As I told them that, in return ing to France, I muft pafs through the town that was the refidence of their fove- reign, they begged me to give her a faith ful account of them, and to lay at her feet the tribute of their refpect and fubmiflion. They added, that they were by fo much the more happy in being tributaries of Ruflia, as. they every day found the Ruffians more eafy of accefs, and more affectionate in their behaviour. They fpoke with particular commendation of M. Gaguen, governor of Ingiga. The kindnefs they had experienced, made them regret the want of opportunity to maintain a more frequent intercourfe with the Ruffians. The only mode, they faid, of furmounting. thefe, difficulties, would be for the fubjects of the Czarina to form afrefh their eftablifhment upon the river Anadir. They promifed for the future that, far from C 4 giving 24 TRAVELS giving any interruption to the fettlers, they would exert themfelves by every office of friendfhip to make them forget the injuf- tice of their paft conduct. That conduct had originated in an error, under which they laboured as well as the Koriacs, in hav ing formerly figured to themfelves the Ruf fians as confiding only of that fmall num- Jber of individuals, who came in this ad venturous manner to plant themfelves in their territory and neighbourhood. By a natural fentiment of jealoufy, they had re garded thefe emigrants as fo many adver- faries, whofe induftry and activity were the objects of their fufpicion ; and they con ceived that nothing could be of more im portance to them than to rid themfelves of the intruders, perfuaded that in extermi nating the fettlers they fhould deftroy the race. The Tchoukchis profeffed to have dif- covered IN KAMTSCHATKA. 25 covered their miftake, and their folly as foon as they had been properly acquainted with , , , the Ruffians. It was in vain that they were now perfuaded to revolt, they being on the contrary difpofed to counteract the feditious intrigues of a prince, or chief of the Tchouk- chis, whofe refidence was fixed, by name Kberourgui, either by curtailing his autho rity, or even by delivering him up to the Ruffians. Not being able to conceive in what part of the world I was born, they afked me if my country were not on the other fide of the great river. Before I anfwered them, I defired to know the meaning of their queftion ; and I found they imagined that beyond Ruffia, with which country itfelf they had little acquaintance, there was a very large river that divided them from another country inhabited by different people. It 20* TRAVELS It was not eafy toinftruct them upon this fubject. I talked a long while without their underftanding a fingle word of my geographical differtation. They had no accurate idea either of number or extenfion. It was not lefs difficult to give them a no tion of the ftrength of a ftate, or the riches and power of its fovereign. They had never attempted an eftimation even of that of Ruffia. That I might enable them to judge of it, I was obliged to illuftrate the abundance of its commodities, its money, and its population, by comparifons drawn from the number of animals they hunted, and the quanty of fifh, they caught every year, without deftroying the breed. This explanation, which I exerted all my ability to make level to their capacities, extremely pleafed them. I adopted the fame method to give them a notion of the way to mea- fure extenfion. I began with the ground that my tent covered, and then taking a fheet IN KAMTSGHATKA. 27 fheet of paper, drew a fort of geographical chart, in which I marked pretty nearly the fituation and diftances of Ruffia and France, with refpect to their country. It was not without fome labour that I made myfelf underftood. But for this I was indemnified by the eagernefs and at tention with Which they liftened to me. In general I was aftonifhed at the folidity of their underftanding, and the thirft they felt for the acquifition of knowledge. Supe rior in thefe refpects to the Koriacs, they appear both to reflect more upon what they fay themfelves, and what they hear and behold. Thefe two people have nearly the fame idiom ; the only difference is, that I found in the Tchoukchis a habit of pro longing the final fyllables of words, and a prounciation flower and fweeter than that of the Koriacs. With the afliftance of my guide, 28 TRAVELS guide, who ferved me for an interpreter, I kept up the converfation tolerably well. The attention with which I examined their drefs, infpired them with a defire of feeing the French habit*, and I ordered my uniform to be taken out of my port manteau. At fight of it they exprefled ad miration in every part of their attitude.. Every one was eager to touch it, every one exclaimed upon its Angularity and its beau ty. My buttons, marked with the arms of France, were particularly infpected, and it was neceffary anew to exert my ingenuity to defcribe to them intelligibly, what this figure reprefented, and what was its ufe„ But they did not allow me to finifh. They eagerly reached out their hands, and in- treated me to divide them among them. I confented, upon the promife they gave me * The reader will recoiled that I was then in a Kamt fchadale drefs. to IN KAMTSCHATKA. SQ to preferve them with extreme care. Their object in keeping them, was to employ them as a mark of affection, which they might ftiew to all the ftrangers that touched upon their coaft, irt hopes that among the reft there might poffibly arrive a Frenchman. : 'Their countrymen had feen the Englifh fome years before. " Why, faid they, do " not the French alfo vifit us ? They might " depend upon being received by us with " cheerfulnefs and cordiality." I thanked them for their obliging difpofition, and re- prefented to them that the diftance was an infuperable obftacle, and would not permit us to put their kindnefs often to the proof. Meanwhile I promifed to give a faithful reprefentation of it upon my arrival in France. After regaling them in the beft manner I could with tobacco, having nothing that could gO TRAVELS could afford them greater pleafure, we part* ed upon the beft terms of friendfhip. Upon leaving me, they faidj that I Ihould pro* bably foon met their equipages; and their wives, whom they had left behind in order to make the greater hafte. The wind became calm fhortly after the departure of thefe Tchoukchis, and I pur- fued my journey. -J not^;: The next day, '.at the very moment when I was about to flop, upon feeing a conveni ent place by the fide of a wood, I perceived farther on before me a numerous troop, of rein deer browfing at liberty upon the top of a mountain. Upon examining them more attentively, I diftinguiflied. .fome men who appeared to be guarding them. I hefitated at firft whether I Ihould avoid, or join them; but curiofity at length prevail ed, and I advanced to reconnoitre them. By IN KAMTSCHATKA. gl By proceeding along the fkirts of the wood I was told I fhould come up with them. I conceived however that at the extremity I fhould be ftill feparated from theni by a river, a ftnall arm of which Ihad croffed a quarter of an hour before: at this place it was tolerably wide. While I was examining thefe people from one bank to the other, I was approached by two women who were walking about. The eldeft ac- cofled me. How great was my furprife to hear both her and her companion fpeak the Ruffian language} They informed me that I was but two hundred yards from the camp of the Tchoukchis, the view of which was intercepted by the wood. As foon indeed as I got down to the fide of the river I could fee their fledges and their tents, and I entreated thefe Women to conduct me thither. As we went on, I afked them of what country g2 TRAVELS country they were, their language telling me that they were neither born, nor had always lived among thefe people. One of them informed me that fhe was a Ruffian, and had been induced to accom* pany the Tchoukchis from a fentiment of maternal affection. Dangers, fatigues, ill treatment, fhe had braved every thing, from the fole motive of reclaiming her daughter, who was retained by them as an hoftage. She had loft her in the following manner. This young woman was travelling, two years beforej with her father and a number of other Ruffians upon the river Pengina. Their caravan, confifting of nine perfons, was proceeding quietly along in the midft of the Koriacs, threatened at that time by a partV| of Tchoukchis, headed by this very Kherourgui whom we juft now mentioned. To get rid of their dangerous neighbours, the IN KAMTSCHATKA. gg the Koriacs conceived the defign of inform ing the Tchoukchis of the paffage of thefe ftrangers*, as a prize that ought not to ef- cape them. The artifice fucceeded. Se duced by the expectation of an immenfe booty in iron and tobacco, the Tchoukchis followed thefe travellers. Their courage could not fave them, and four of them, with their arms in their hands, became the vic tims, of a fruitlefs refiftance. The hulband of this woman was killed in defending his daughter, whom the conquerors carried off with the three remaing companions of her misfortune. The Ruffians had inceffantly demanded the furrender of thefe prifoners, and the Tchoukchis had promifed to fend * The perfidy of the Koriacs has almoft always endea voured to inflame the enmity of the Tchoukchis againft the Ruffians, either by falfe reports, or by inciting them to attack fuch parties of Ruffians whom they could not, or dared not, attack themfelves. Thefe artful manoeuvres have been the caufe of the many adts of cruelty with which the Tchoukchis have been reproached, but which form no part of their character. vol. ii. D them 34 TRAVELS them bkck ; but only two of thern had yet been releafed. The 'affecting recital of this unfortunate mother, which was frequently interrupted by her tears, interefted rrie "ftrongly in her favour. Without knowing whether the mediation would have any weight with the Tchoukchis, I felt myfelf difpofed to join my intreaties to hers, and I had the fatis- Faction to perceive that they were not' nu gatory. The other woman told me that file was by birth a Tcnoukchi. In her infancy Ine had been taken by the Ruffians upon the river Anadir, and carried to Yakoutfk, where they had given her the beft education fn their poweV. She afterwards married \ ¦foldier, by whom fhe was in a few years left a widow. At length, by order of govern ment, fhe was fent back to her own country with ift kamtschatka; 35 with her children,. to render an account of the obligations that fhe owed to the Ruf fians. It had been recommended to her to give the minufceft details to the Tchoukchis, even fuch as lived to the greateft diftance*, and infinuate to them the innumerable ad vantages they might derive from eftablifh- ing a fafe and peaceable commerce with the Ruffians. This woman fpoke the Ruffian, the Ya kout, and the Tchoukchi languages with equal facility. She told me, that the little knowledge fhe derived from her education, had gained her a fort of credit with her compatriots ; that fhe had already taken advantage of her afcendancy over their minds, to deftroy feveral of their preju dices ; and fhe (flattered herfelf that by de grees they would be taught to fee their in- * That is, beyond the cape of Tchoukchi, known inv .maps by the name of T-eheukotfkountK. D 2 tereft 36 TRAVELS tereft in its true light. Her hopes were chiefly founded upon the character of this people, which fhe affured me was perfectly generous, hofpitable, mild, and preferable in every refpect to that of the Koriacs. The converfation of thefe women had fo engroffed my attention, that I was in the camp of the Tchoukchis before I perceived it. Their joy at feeing me was extreme, and I was furrounded in an inftant. They all addreffed themfelves to me at once, to prevail on me to fpend the night with them. I had no fooner anfwered that it was my in tention, than they faluted me with new tranfports and huzzas. I ordered my tent to be erected at the extremity of the camp, and while it was performing I invited the chiefs to vifit me. Eager to accept my in vitation, they could not wait till I had en tered my tent, and I found a more nume rous affembly than it could contain. After IN KAMTSCHATKA. g7 After the .firfi compliments were over, we entered into converfation, mutually de-. firous of receiving information. We talked in a luminary way of our refpective coun tries, manners, and cuftoms; and the quef- tions they afked me were nearly fimilar to thofe of Tumm6 and his companions. They expreffed their fubmiffion to Ruffia, their defire of forming an alliance with that country by means of a commercial inter - courfe, and of feeing the eftablifhment upon the Anadir revived. They then entered into particulars upon the motives of their journey. Their principal inducement was to vifit fome relations who had intermarried with the Ruffians, and fettled at Ingiga. They had alfo, it was probable, fome com mercial project in view, though from their own account, attachment to their country men was their only motive; and in reality, this patriotic fentiment was vifible I thought in their attention to this Tchoukchi woman, D 3 and 3& TRAVELS and the careffes they beftowed upon her children. They frequently entreated me to banifh all diftruft from my mind, and to rely upon their friendfhip. They feemed to fuppofe that I partook of the referve which the Ruf fians difcovered in their intercourfe with them ; but not having the fame reafons to fear them, I was a ftranger to fufpicion. I wiflied them to underftand this by my an- fwer, which was, that being unwilling to offend any individual I might meet with in my way, I imagined that no one would be defirous of incommoding me, particularly in the midft of a nation whofe civility and rectitude were already known to me. This mode of reafoning pleafed them, and they appeared to be flattered by my fecurity. I conceived of courfe that I ought to conceal my arms, and reject the propofal made by my IN KAMTSCHATKA. gQ my foldiers of placing a centinel before my tent- ,;,., I ^iftribytted tobacco to the moft diftin- guilhed of thefe Tchoukchis,, and after wards treated them with tea anfl rye bjf- cuit. Their chief, or prince, named Che- gouiaga, of the fame rank and authority as Tumnie, two of hj[s relations, and the two women who ferved as interpreters, flipped with me. The repaft was perfectly frugal but very gay, anal my guefts were as well pleafed as if they had fared ever fo fump- tiioufly, The neceflity pf taking reft ob liged us, to feparate. As, fqon as I w^s alpne, I embraced the opportunity of writing down the notes with. which their cqnverfatjon and my ovyri pb- fervatipns haji furriifhgd me. The camp of thefe Tchoukchis was pitch- D4, ed 4,0 TRAVELS ed upon the border of the river, by the fide of their equipages, and at the back of the wood which I mentioned. It contained about a dozen tents ranged in a line along the bank. They were of a fquare form, and made of rein deer fkin, fufpended by leathern ftraps to four poles erected at the four corners. Bundles of fpears and arrows, fixed in the fnow before every tent, feem, to guard the entrance*, which is very low, and fliuts hermetically. The tents are extremely hot. The partitions and the covering being made of deer fkin, the air cannot penetrate, and there is befides a ftove in the middle of each of them. The bed refembles that of the Kamtfchadales when they halt, and con- fifts of fmall branches of trees fpread on the fnow like litter, and covered with deer fkins. Here a whole family will lie down and fleep together without diftinction of age or fex. * The fear of being furprifed in the night by the Ko riacs occafions this precaution. The IN KAMTSCHATKA. 4,1 The fpace is fo narrow that it is aftonifhing how fo many people ean crowd into it. The air and filthinefs occafioned by it are infup- portable; let it fuffice to fay, that they feel no difguft at feeing their food and their ' drink clofe to the moft offenfive objects, for no words can defcribe the excefs of their indolence. Among thefe Tchoukchis, whofe num ber amounted to about forty, there were fifteen or fixteen women*, and nearly as many children, who are employed in pre paring the tents and provifions. Every. principal perfon has valets in his fervice to take care of the deer, and guard them1 * Polygamy is allowed by thefe people ; one may fay indeed that they admit promifcuous cohabitation, for they are faid to carry their politenefs fo far as to offer their wives or daughters to their guefts. To refufe the offer would be an infult. I cannot anfwer for the truth of this report. during 4,e TRAVELS during the night from the wolves with which thefe coafts abound. . -r The drefs of the women is very remark able. It confifts of a fingle deer fkin that is fattened round the neck, where it has an opening both before and behind, and which defcends in the fhape of large breeches be low the knee. This garment is put on by means of the opening at the neck, and there is no other way of taking it off but by loofening the firings which tie it under the chin, when it inftantly falls from the body, and leaves the woman naked. Thp incon venience of this habit may eafily be imaging ed, from the frequent necefljty there mu$ be of diverting themfelves of it. When they travel, they wear a. hcmhlariki over their com mon drefs, and their feet have no other co- yerng than boots rnade of the legs of rein, deer. Their hair is of a deep black. Some-! times jt is turned up in tufts behind, but it is IN KAMTSCHATKA. 4$ is oftener feparated upon the forehead, and hangs in long braids on each fide. Their ears and their neck are loaded with orna ments of glafs beads of different colours ; ,and when they are cold, the- hood of their parque ferves them for a head-drefs. Their countenance is by no means agree able ; the features are coarfe, though their nofe is not flat, nor their eyes funk in their head like the Kamtfchadales, They refem- ble them in thefe refpects lefs than dp the Koriac women. They are alfo taller, but not flender. The thicknefs and bulk of their drefs give them an appearance the very oppofite to alert. In the mean time they perform the mpft laborious offices, fuch as lighting fire, cutting wood, fetching Water, and other things required in their domeftic ceconomy. Thefe cares devolve principally upon the pldeft, The 44 TRAVELS The features of the men feemed to be more regular, and not at all Afiatic. Their complexion, like that of the women, is very tawny; and their drefs, their fledges, and in fhort, all their cuftoms are exactly fimilar to thofe of the wandering Koriacs. I fhall take an opportunity of defcribing them together, Thefe Tchoukchis at prefent go every - year to Ingiga. They leave their country in the beginning of autumn, and do not arrive at this fettlement till March. As foon as their bufinefs is tranfacted, which only requires a few days, they fet out upon their return, that they may not lofe the advan tage of travelling in fledges ; but they fel- dom reach their home till the latter end of June. The merchandife they take with them confifts chiefly of fable and fox-fkin par- ques, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 45 ques, and morfe teeth, which afford a very fine ivory. They receive in exchange ket tles, tobacco, lances, mufquets, knives, and other iron inftruments. As yet they are- little accuftomed to the mufquet, and fcarcely make any ufe of it ; but they are very expert in fhooting an arrow, and ma naging a lance, which are therefore their principal arms. Like all the northern people, they have an aftonifhing propenfity to drunkennefs. Their love of brandy is fo extreme, that if you once let them tafte it, you muft repeat your kindnefs till they are perfectly intox icated, or they would confider themfelves as infulted, and probably have recourfe td menaces and violence, to obtain their ends." As inceffant fmokers as the Koriacs, they have the fame pipes and the fame methpd of ufing them. Being $ TRAVELS Being unwilling to prolong my ftay, I went as foon as it was light to take leave of thefe Tchoukchis in their tents, but the «nwholefome air and the heat foon obliged me to withdraw. Our parting was very affectionate ; each in his turn overwhelmed me with embraces. It may be fuppofed I did not fall fhort in my compliments, nor could I in reality too highly extol the re ception of this hofpitable people. I fet off early enough to travel this day thirty werfts. About half way I found upon the fea opafi: two balagans and a yourt, inhabited by a Koriac family, and an hour after I reached the oftrocr of PareineV This village is lefs than Kaminoi, but- more p©|«a>kxus and well fituated. It is upon a river, from which it takes i*s name, and about three werfts from where it pour? its waters into the fea of Pengina, which, forms IN kamtschatkA. 47 £>rms at this place fo narrow a gulf, that in. clear weather one can fee from one fhore t© the other. The firft perfon I faw in the village vv^s 'an old woman of a mixed breed, whofe melancholy appearance ftruck me. Either from compaflion or curiofity, I inftantly ap proached her. Upon my queftioning her reflecting the caufe of her diftrefs, fhe ut tered a loud fhriek, and anfwered me only by her tears. My intreaties, and the fym- pathy I difcovered, at laft drew from her •the recital of her misfortune. About a fortnight before, fhe had left Ingiga with her hufband, her fon, and a, number of friends, to vifit fome relations at Parein6. Overtaken in their way by one of thofe terrible hurricanes, whofe fatal effects I havebeen twenty times upon the verge^f experiencing, thefe travellers had ftrayed from 48 TRAVELS from the road, and been feparated from one another. The father and fon were in the fame fledge. Having wandered a long time in purfuit of a fhelter, or to difcover fome veftiges of the road, they were at length totally loft. After two days fearch, they were found buried in the fnow, and dead with cold. Their bodies were com pletely frozen, and their pofture indicated, that thefe two unfortunate beings, no longer able to drag themfelves on, had lain down clofe together to keep themfelves warm, and died in each others arms. More fuccefsful than her hufband, this woman had found a fhelter by the fide of a river, fifteen werfts . from Pareine, where fhe had arrived with her companions, exhaufted with fatigue, and half dead with grief. She added, that during this tempeft it was impoflible to fee . either the heavens or the earth. The fnow, i frozen in the air, grew thicker as it fell, ; and was like a fhower of icicles. Their clothes IN KAMTSCHATKA. 49 ck>thesv had been fo pierced by it as to be perfectly ufelefs. But what ftill increafed this woman's affliction, was the inability in which fhe found herfelf of returning to her country. No perfon feemed difpofed to fupply her with the means, which fhe con tinually folicited, but without effe6l. Upon this fhe burft into a flood of tears. I faid every thing that compaffion fuggefted to me to confole her ; and quitted her with regret, at not being able to afford her any relief, and fhowing her only a fruitlefs pity. While I was converfing with her, the inhabitants of Pareine" crowded about me. Their chief or prince, called Toultitka, ap proached to invite me to pafs the night in the village. His finifter countenance con firmed every thing that had been faid of his perfidy, and I gave him to underftand, that I had no defire to flop. Upon my re- vol. 11. E , fufal, 50 TRAVELS fufal, he mentioned the impoflibility of pro* curing me dogs and provifions till the next morning. The reafons he affigned plainly difcovered his ill will*, and betrayed, I thought, fome fatal intention. Refolved to efcape, whatever it might coft me, I replied, that I could very well do without what I was unable to obtain, but that no confidera- tion fhould induce me to ftay. He feigned not to comprehend me, and alledged fome new obftacle, /regarding me at the fame * I had the greater reafon to fufpe£r him, as his mode of introducing himfelf, reminded me of the expedients he had employed the preceding year to detain a failor, charged by .government with important difpatches. The failor, anxious to arrive at the place of his deftination, was pre pared to leave Pareine, when Youltitka preffed him to \vait till the next day. He fhowed no difpofition to comply, but was defirous of proceeding immediately! The difpute became warm. The enraged Koriac fell upon him, and .would inftantly have affaflinated him, if he had not been torn from his hands. He was bound, and kept in con finement for three days. At length, after having fuffered every fort of ill treatment, Youltitka permitted him to go, with the hope perhaps of putting an end to him more eafily in his way ; but the prey cfcaped him. time IN KAMTSCHATKA. 51 time with a bitter fmile, that feemed to defy me to proceed. I felt that I muft arm myfelf with the utmoft firmnefs, or patiently fub- mit to whatever law it might pleafe this wretch to impofe upon me. The whole vil- lage was prefent. Two hundred men at leaft preffed tumultuoufly about me, either to in- fpire me with terror, or to obferve my em- baraffment. In this perilous conjuncture, I conceived the defign of addrefling myfelf to them in the Ruffian language, hoping that there might be fome among them who would underftand me, and who might be lefs unmanageable than their chief. My harangue was fhort, but vehement. I enforced the confideration of my charac ter as a ftranger, my claims upon their af- fiftance, my defire of meriting it by my be haviour towards them, and the kindnefs I had received from their countrymen in the courfe of my journey. I added, that ex- E a cept 52 TRAVELS cept in the prefent inftance, I had never had occafion to demand the fuccours of which I flood in need ; far from waiting till I pro duced my orders, they had fhowed the ut moft readinefs to anticipate my wifhes, be fore I could make them known. At the mention of the word order, I per ceived that they looked with a kind of aftonifhment upon one another. In pro portion as my addrefs made an impreflioh upon them, I affumed more warmth and affurance. Then drawing on a fudden my paffport from my pocket, and fixing my eyes with an air of difpleafiire upon Youl titka, I prefented it to him, declaring at the fame time that I meaned to depart in two hours at lateft. This abrupt conclusion dif- concerted him. He perceived that he could not avoid complying with my wifhes, with out rendering himfelf criminal ; and the mandate of the governor was too formal and IN KAMTSCHATKA . 53 And too authoritave for him to dare to op- pofe - it. He therefore ordered that the quantity of fifh which I wanted, fhould im mediately be collected, intreating me at the fame time to have fome regard to the fmall- nefs of _ their, ftock, which I fhould very con- fiderably diminifh. It was this idea, he faid, that had induced him to make any .difficulties, as he was, afraid that I fhould totally exhauft their caves. This was a mere fubterfuge, as I was foon convinced that they were abundantly ftored. In the mean time, that he might be thought defirous of making fome amends for his uncivil reception, or perhaps with a view of making me repent the having forced him in his laft intrenchments, he invited me to wait in his yourt, till my people had made the neceffary preparations for my de parture. To refufe would have fhown a degree of inquietude ; I wifhed, on the con- E 3 trary, 54 TRAVELS trary, fully to convince him of my intre pidity. It was befides the hour for dining, and with the hope of imperceptibly gaining the traitor, I accepted his invitation, offering to treat him with a better repaft than it was in his power to provide for me. I followed him with a countenance as tranquil as if I had felt myfelf in perfect fecurity. To fpeak the truth, however, I was not without trouble., when, upon coming to his yourt, I found it neceffary to defcend forty feet under ground. The extraordinary depth of this retreat delivered me entirely to the mercy of my hoft. My companions could neither have heard nor aflifted me. I fhud- dered at my own imprudence, but it was too late to draw back. I was well armed, and I prepared to defend myfelf as well as I could in cafe of an infult, The firft care of Youltitka was to feat me in the place of honour, that is, in a kind of alcove IN KAMTSCIIATKA. £5 alcove referved for the chief of the family. His was a very numerous one, nearly eighty perfons living with him in this yourt. They had all deferted it upon the report of my arrival, and were ftill about my people, fo that I was alone to contend with three or four companions or relations of Youltitka, who furrounded me, thrufting their nofes almoft in my face. Suppofing themfelves to be adepts in the Ruffian language, be- caufe they were able to murder a few words, they afked me, in turn, a variety of quef- tions, each more abfurd than the preceding. My fituation dictated politenefs, and I an- fwered them with mildnefs and precifion. I thus parted an hour in the midft of thefe favage figures, truly calculated to infpire dread, particularly that of their" chief*. 'My, * It is difficult to conceive of a man more completely ugly. Large and fquat, his whole face feamed with the fmall pox, and various other fears, a fullen countenance, black hair, that joined enormous eye-brows, under which E 4 there g6 TRAVELS My foldier did not make his appearance, and I began to be uneafy. Upon a motion which I made to come out, thefe Koriacs placed themfelves before me. One of them caught hold of my arm to malie me fit down, afking me if I wanted to efcape. I endeavoured to look as ftoutly as I could, but I confefs my heart palpitated. I again took my feat ; and in fpite of the alteration which they might perceive in my face, I replied, that I did not imagine I had any reafon to fear them. Youltitka then en deavoured to excite my confidence. He fwore that he had the higheft efteem for me, and that I was in perfect fafety. His paft conduct, he added, might have given me reafon to fufpect his character, but he confidered it as a point of honour to fet me right. Proud of having been received there was only one eye, and that funk in his head, haggard and fierce ; the other he had loft by accident : fuch is the exacl pidture of this Koriac prince. among IN KAMTSCHATKA. tft among the judges of the tribunal of In giga *, he valued his reputation too much to fuffer any one to treat me ill in his pre- fence. I knew my man too well to place any faith in thefe affeverations, and I confidered myfelf as happy that he dared not do what was in his power, and probably what was in his heart. I haftened therefore to -quit the yourt, upon the pretext of feeking for my people, and giving them orders for dinner. I could not however rid myfelf of this treacherous Koriac. He perfifted in accompanying me. Every word I uttered feemed to alarm him. Not underftanding the Ruffian language, he immediately afked * This tribunal is called in Ruffia nijenei-zemfkoifoud, or inferior territorial tribunal.- The judges are felecled in turn from the peafants in the oftrogs of each diftri£t. The exercife of their office is limited to three years. Thefe judges are called zajfidatels.. the 5S TRAVELS the meaning of what I faid, and watched all my motions with Angular attention. I found my people occupied in bartering the bad dogs they had left, for furs, and articles of drefs made of rein deer-fkin. Their avarice had made them forgetful of what I had recommended to them, and the danger in which they had left me ; but I Concealed my difpleafure on account of my witneffes. I again defcended the yourt, ac companied by Youltitka and my two fol diers, who began immediately to prepare our dinner. The women artirted them in cleaning the difhes*; and with the help of brandy, good humour gradually fucceed- ed to fears and diftruft. Our repaft was very jovial, and I frequently endeavoured to * They ufe no kind of cloth or napkin for this pur- pofe. They take a ftick, fcrape it for a few minutes, and with the fhavings they rub and clean their difhes and other utenfils ufed in their cooking. imitate IN KAMTSCHATKA. 59 imitate my guefts in their loud peals of laughter, outrageous expreffion of fenti ment being the only thing that pleafes them. The dinner being finifhed, I fent one of my foldiers to order the dogs to be harnefled, a part of which was a frefh fupply. My provifions were alfo ready, and in ten minutes I was prepared to take leave of my Koriacs. They appeared to be fatisfied with me ; I know not whe ther they were really fo, but I acknowledge as to myfelf that I was glad to efcape from them, and I fat off therefore as quick as poffible. It was only two o'clock in the afternoon ; but I conceived that I ought to make up for the forced delay I had experienced, and did not therefore halt till I was fifteen werfts from Pareine. This day and the next, which was the 30, afforded 60 TRAVELS afforded nothing that was worth reciting. I croffed a variety of rivers, not one of which was confiderable, but there were a few fhrubs on the banks of fome of them. Upon leaving Pareine- I had quitted the fea, and fhould fee no more of it on this fide Ingiga, of confequence we had no chance of procuring dry wood, which we fome- times found while we travelled upon the coaft. This was a confiderable lofs to us, from the neceflity to which it reduced us of gathering every little fhrub we could perceive, and .the fear that even this paltry refource might fail us. For a long time my principal food had been rein deer. Delicious as this meat is, there is I believe none of which one is fo foon tired. The worft circumftance how ever was, that our ftock began to be ex- haufted. We only eat of it once a day ; our other meals confifted of dried fifh and the IN KAMTSCHATKA. 6l the flefli of the fea wolf boiled. I was highly gratified this day by a brace of par tridges, which I had the good fortune to kill, and which were added to my table. This gave an agreeable relief to the tedi ous uniformity of my daily food. The day was beautiful, and a clear fky feemed to promife us colder weather, which was what we wifhed, the fnow being fo foft that our dogs funk to their bellies. To open a way for them, each of us was obliged to run before with our rackets. The hope that the next day would afford us better travelling, animated my guides, and we made tolerable fpeed. It was late when we flopped at a place that was not at all fheltered ; there was no, wood except a fort of dwarf cedar, refinous, crooked, and grovelling. N Before I retired to my tent, I perceived at 6e TRAVELS at the horizon fome ill-boding clouds. I had been fufficiently habituated to the cli mate to be able, to judge of the weather from the moft trivial appearances, and I communicated my conjectures to my guides. They confidered their knowledge in this refpect as infinitely fuperior to mine, and replied, that the fetting fun had been too beautiful to give us any reafon to appre hend foul weather. According to their own account they were never deceived, and I might implicitly rely upon their judgment. Upon reflection I was not forry to find them in this fecurity, as it relieved me from the fear of being conftrained by them to pafs the day in this place, which would not be tenable againft the firft guft of wind. As foon as it was light I was waked by one of my guides, who, in a tone of raillery, * came to haften my departure, that we might not lofe the advantage of the fine day we were IN KAMTSCHATKA. 6$ were likely to have. The moon ftill fhone, and the fky was without a cloud. While I was at breakfaft, as ufual, upon tea and rye bifcuit, which my people had referved for me, willing rather to want it themfelves than that I fhould be without it, they ques tioned me one after another reflecting the weather. It was a conteft who fhould ban ter, me moft. I perfevered however in my opinion, defiring them to wait till the even ing before they judged whether I was right or wrong in prognofticating a ftorm. We had fcarcely broke up our camp, when we. perceived at fome diftahce a company confifting of five Koriac fledges, drawn by rein deer. Our dogs, allured by the fcent of thefe animals, advanced towards, them with aftonifhing ardour. The nearer we approached, the more thefe Koriacs feemed to avoid us. I imagined at firft that it was the natural effect of their diftruft, but the cry 6% TRAVELS cry and eagernefs of our dogs, foon told me what was the fource of their terror. They would infallibly have rufhed upon them if they had been more at liberty. I ordered my guides therefore to halt. The difficulty was to reftrain our fteeds, which we did not effect without confiderable exertion. We then endeavoured by figns to make the Koriacs underftand that we were defirous of a moment's converfation with them. They appeared to hold a confultation, and after a few minutes one of their company was difpatched to us. He flopped about three hundred yards from us, and defired us in like manner by figns to fend alfo one of our body, and particularly to keep back our dogs. I ordered one of my foldiers to go with his rackets to meet this Koriac, and to afk him whence they came, whither they were bound, if they knew any thing relative to M. Kafloff, and what diftance they ima gined us to be from Ingiga. In IN KAMTSCHATKA. 6j In the courfe of half an hour my mef- fenger came back with the following infor mation . Thefe people were wandering Ko riacs, returning to their families from In giga, where they had been to fee their friends and fell their .deer fkins. They had heard they thought of a fupply of dogs and provifions being fent a fhort time fince to the governor-general, but they could give us no certain intelligence. Their account of our diftance from Ingiga correfponded with the opinion of my guide, whom I had juft before interrogated upon the fubject, in confequence of a new debate between my people and me. , It originated thus. While we waited the return of the fol dier, I obferved fome clouds pafs rapidly over our heads, the form and direction of which confirmed me in the idea that we were threatened by an approaching tem- peft. My confidential foldier, Golikoff, vol. n. F had 66 TRAVELS had been equally incredulous with the reft, and readily defended the contrary opinion ; in the mean time he agreed that at prefent there was every appearance that my pre dictions would be verified ; he had even mentioned me, he faid, to the Koriacs, as a prophet in this refpect, and he fhould be forry to fee me miftaken in the very firft in- ftance, and lofe my credit. This fimple avowal was the more divert ing to me, as my conductors were witneffes to it. It fuggefted to me the defire of amu- fing myfelf in my turn with their igno rant fimplicity. The opportunity was fa vourable. I repeated, that in two hours at lateft, they would be convinced of my knowledge, but that it was firft neceffary I fhould be informed whether we fhould meet with any place of fhelter in our way. One of them anfwered me in the negative. " Till we came to the river Ingiga, we had " to In kamtschatka. 67 *' to traverfe an immerife and naked plain* " where the eye could merely difcern a few " inequalitieSj occafioned by the foil, or the " fnow drifted by the hurricanes, and con- " gealed by the froft" This intelligence embaraffed me> apprehertfive that we fhould be compelled to return for fhelter to a little wood which we had juft pafikL We were fcarcely half a league from it, but the ob- ftinacy of my guides in fupport of the opinion that we had nothing to fear, re moved the difficulty. Imboldened by, their fuppofed experience, they were de- » firous that we fhould proceed. I agreed with them, hoping to arrive at Ingiga in the evening. To execute my project With greater cer-* tainty, I intended to have recourfe to my COmpafSj which would be a fufficient guide in the midft of the whirlwinds. I afked, therefore, the moft intelligent" of my con- F 2 ductors, 68 TRAVELS ductors in what direction Ingiga lay, and he? made it known to me immediately by point* ing out at a great diftance a mountain, the* fummit of which feemed to be loft in the clouds. * The town," faid he, " is a little " on this fide, and in the fame line. We are " as yet fifty or fifty -five werfts from it/' I interrupted him to examine in what point of the compafs it was", and to calculate with my watch the pace we travelled. From the time wre fat out we bad gone at the rate of fix or.feven werfts an hour, but I con- fidered that the hurricane would cOnfider- ably impede us, and I eounted therefore only upon three werfts. It was now fix o'clock in the morning, and according to my calculation, I hoped to be at Ingiga be fore midnight. I learned alfo from my guide, that to gain the river which led to the town, it was firft neceffary that we fhould arrive at a very large foreft through which it flowed. I was fatisfied. The immenfe extent IN KAMTSCHATKA. £0, extent of this wood to the right and left, convinced me that we could not lofe our- felves or mil's finding it. Having taken thefe precautions, I told my .people that I defired nothing better than to proceed, and that I was refolved not to flop, whatever might happen. I recom mended to them to inform me when they thought that they had loft their way, and I would then fet them right. The feriouf- nefs with which I gave this order, con founded them ; they looked at each other with an air of aftonifhment, not daring to tell me in plain terms that I was out of my fenfes. The moft intrepid of them how ever, addreffed himfelf to me, and repre- fented, that having never parted this way, it was impoffible J could undertake to guide them, without running the rifk of entirely lofing them, and that I was certainly in jeft. I made no other reply than prclering every F 3 one 70 TRAVELS one to his fledge, threatening to punifh whoever fhould difobey, and I imrriediately gave the fignal to depart. At half after eight we had advanced fif teen werfts, and according to my eftimate had only forty remaining ; but the horizon had been for almoft an hour covered with dark clouds. We faw the tempeft gradu ally approach, and the wind began to raife the fnow in eddies. My companions were filent. Terror acted upon them almoft as ftrongly as their confufion, and they knew no longer where they were. The hurricane foon attacked us with a violence that de ranged feveral of our fledges: By dint of vociferation we rallied them. My conduc tors confeffed themfelves conquered, and conjured me to halt, though we were in the " ppen country. Blinded by the wind, which ¦ blew in their faces, they were afraid pf mifleading us. I reminded IN KAMTSCHATKA. ?1 I reminded them of my promife, and per- fifted in wifhing to go on. I ordered that all the fledges fhould keep as clofe as pof- fible together, that we might be informed of the leaft accident that fhould happen, and be able to affift one another. Then, by means of my compafs, which I had f aliened under my fur cloak, that it might be con tinually before my eyes, I began the office of directing our caravan. We travelled in this order during the reft of the day, and I might fay in the midft of darknefs, for I could not fee the foldier who was in the fledge immediately behind me, and fcarcely his foremoft dogs. About feven o'clock in the evening, weary of the complaints and remonftrances of my people, who continually requefted me tp flop, and judging befide that we could not be more than five or fix werfts from the wood, I affured them that if we did not F 4 reach 73 TRAVELS reach it by nine o'clock, we would go no farther that night ; unlefs when arrived at the wood and the river, they prefered going on, as we fhould be fo near to Ingiga ; but that they fhould be at liberty to do as they pleafed. This condition appeared to pacify them; not becaufe they imagined them felves to be fo far advanced, on the con trary, they probably confidered themfelves as out of the road, and only wifhed -to, repofe themfelves, that with the advan tage of day-light they might recover it again. At a quarter before nine a kind of dark veil began to be perceptible before us. As we drew nearer, it became blacker and more extenfive. The next moment my conduc tors cried out that they could fee the trees, and that they were fafe. It was in reality the foreft of Ingiga. I fent theni a little way on to examine it, -and they prefently returned IN KAMTSCHATKA. ,,73 returned tranfported with joy to tell me that we were clofe to the river. The refpectful tone with which they de livered themfelves diverted me extremely; After thanking me for having guided them fp well, the Koriac afferted that none of their chamans had ever performed any thing fo miraculous. To have predicted the bad weather,\ at a time when every thing feemed in their eyes to promife the very reverfe ; to have been afterwards able to guide and preferve them in the midft oT this pourga *, was a fagacity, in his opinion, fupernatural. The gratitude of the reft of my company was almoft equally abfurd. They could not recover themfelves from their aftonifhment. It was in vain I fhowed them my compafs, and endeavoured to ex^. plain to them how I derived from it all * So they call thefe tempefts. my 74, TRAVELS t my knowledge ; they replied, that fuch a conjuring book was unintelligible except to perfons like me, fkilled in the art of magic. At fo fhort a diftance from Ingiga, J was fully affured they would no longer be de- firous of flopping ; each of them was anxi ous to fee his wife, and embrace his chil dren. So far were they from accepting my propofal to pitch our tent and pafs the night in the wood, that they importuned me to gain the river, and they engaged in three hours to reach the town. I Complied, and we coafted along the bank till we ar rived oppofite to Ingiga, where it was ne- ceffary to crofs the river, which parted clofe to the walls. The ice was fufficiently firm, but the violence of the wind had covered it with water, fo that our feet were very wet. At the gates of the town I anfwered the 5 inter- IN KAMTSCHATKA. J5 interrogatories ufual in fortified places, and was obliged to wait till a report was made to the governor. Having long received in telligence that I was on my way, major Gaguen had the civility to come immedi ately to welcome me, and offer me his houfe. I entered Ingiga the 31, exactly at half after eleven o'clock. This town is the largeft and moft popu lous I have yet feen. It is fituated upon a river of the fame name, thirty werfts from its mouth, and is defended by a fquare in- elofure of palifades, the height and thick nefs of which furprifed me, and by wooden baftipns, erected on piles, at the four an gles. Thefe baftions are provided with cannon, and contain a variety of^warlike ftores. They are guarded day and night by centinels *, as are alfo the three gates of the f It i? necenary to be inceflantly on the watch for fear pf a furprife on the part of the neighbouring Koriacs, whofe TRAVELS \ the town, of which one only is open . There is a fmall fquare, befpre the houfe of the go vernor, and a guard, Rationed c-n one fide of this fquare, defends it from attack. I was equally ftruck with the houfes. They are of wood, and very low, but have all a regular front, and are evidently built uppn one plan. M. Gaguen intends by degrees! to give this uniformity to the whole town. The ifbas that have been conftru6led fince his arrival, befides a pleafant appearance, Jiave all the conveniences on the infide that fuch habitations will admit of. He has it in contemplation alfo to rebuild the church, which is a wretched edifice, and almoft in ruins, The population amounts to about five or whofe daring and turbulent character leads them frequently to revolt, and to attack the town at a time when it is leaft expected. When they come to Ingiga for commercial purpofes, they are not permitted to make any long ftay. fix IN KAMTSCHATKA; *j*f fix hundred inhabitants, who are either merchants, or in the fervice of government. The latter are moft numerous, and form the garrifon of the place. They are kept under the fevereft difcipline, which is indif- penfible, from the frequent occafion there is to defend themfelves. The circumfpec- tion and zeal of the governor in this refpect cannot be furparted. Their tribunals are the fame with thofe of Nijenei Kamt- fchatka. The commerce of Ingiga confifts of furs, and particularly the fkins of rein deer. It is in general fuperior to Kamtfchatka both in the variety and quality of its fkins. It is true that we get the otter and fea wolf fian from that peninfula, but the fables o£ Ingiga are much finer, though they are at the fame time fcarcer. The Kamtfchadales befides have no common martens *, rabbits, * Called in Ruffia kounits. or 78 TRAVELS or American rats, called rijfei, which the Koriacs get by means of exchange from the neighbouring Tchoukchis^ and which they bring to Ingiga with their rein deer-fkins. Thefe deer-fkins are fold in their raw ftate, and at a very good price. They are after* wards tanned and manufactured with fuch furprifing art, that the laborious activity of the workmen fuperfede the neceflity of inftruments invented by European induftry. The fkill and beauty of their work can only be furparted by its durablenefs. Gloves and ftockings come from their hands in a ftate of perfection. Their fowings and embroideries are wrought with the hair of the rein deer, with filk, and with gold, and would do credit to our moft fkillful glovers. But it is time I fhould fpeak of the cuf* toms of the KoriacS. I have only deferred my account fo long that I might be more minute. IN KAMTSCHATKA. fy minute. To the imperfect obfervations which I have myfelf made in pafling through their different oftrogs, I fhall add others that are more exact, and derived from unqueflionable authority. In my con- verfations with M. Gaguen and the princi pal inhabitants, I endeavoured to derive fome light upon the fubject ; but my chief fource of information was a Koriac, whom I fhall here introduce to the reader. My firft acquaintance with him was at Kaminoi. Struck with the civilities which M. Schmaleff beftowed upon him, I was curious to know the rank and fituation of this perfonage. He was, they informed me, a zaffedatel, or Ingiga judge, and was come to meet us to offer us his fervices. The facility with which he expreffed himfelf in the Ruffian language, and the rectitude of his mind charmed me. I fhould have taken him for a Ruffian, if I had not heard him a moment §0 TRAVELS moment after fpeak his native tongue. I underftood alfo that he was a Koriac prince, called Oumiavin, and brother to oiie of the chiefs of the wandering Koriacs. Curiofity led me to afk him a thoufand queftions. He anfwered with a fhrewdnefs and fagacity that Iliad not obferved in any of his countrymen. The being able to talk with him without the affiftance of an inter ¦» preter, rendered his converfation more valu able, and during my fhort ftay at Kaminoi it was a fource of inftruction and amufement to me. Of the various topics upon which we difcourfed, that of religion was the moft interefting. Though equally informed re- fpe<5ting the Ruffian and the Koriac mode of worfhip, he in reality profeffed neither. He feemed difpofed however to be baptized j and only waited till he was better inftructed upon certain points which he did not com prehend. Full of admiration at the fubii- mity IN KAMTSCHATKA. 8l mity of the Chriftian morals, and the ma- jeftic pomp of its external worfhip, he ac knowledged that nothing could give him a greater defire to become a convert to it ; but the imperious feverity of fome of our religious rites *, the uncertainty of celeftial happinefs, and particularly the idea of a God threatening eternal torments, filled him with inquietude and difmay. With all its vifions and all its abfurdities, the religion of his country, he faid, offered him at leaft more hope than fear ; its punifhments were confined to the prefent world, and it promifed him a recompence in the next ; the evil fpirit could only torment him during his life, and hap pinefs awaited him at his death. Agi tated by thefe confiderations, his mind * floated in continual doubt and perplexity. He dared neither abjure, nor continue * He was chiefly terrified by the fafts, which, with the Greeks, are very rigid and very frequent. vol. n. G fledfaft 8s TRAVELS ftedfaft jn the faith of his fathers. He blufhed at its errors, yet his heart che- rifhed them. The finiplicity with which he avowed his irrefolution, interefted me the more, as I could difcover in his converfation and in his heart, an uncommon fund of virtue, and a Angular love of truth. To fix his wavering mind, it would have been firft neceffay to clear away the prejudices that obfcured it, and which had originated from the falfe principles that he had imbibed. Any other perfon would perhaps have undertaken the tafk. I was deterred from it by the fear of not fuceeeding in my attempt, from the fhort time I fhould be able to fpend with him. He arrived at Ingiga the day after me, as he had promifed, and rendered me very confiderable fervices by his endeavour to furnifh all the information reflecting his country that I defired, and to fupply me with IN KAMTSCHATKA. 83 with what I wanted for the continuance of my journey. There is in many refpects a great refem- blance between the fixed and the wander ing Koriacs : we cannot therefore but won der at the little cordiality, or rather at the mifundernanding that fubfifts among them, on account of which they may be confider- ed as two different people. Their country however is the fame, and takes in a vafl extent, terminated to the fouth by the peninfula of Kamtfchatka, and the gulf of Pengina ; to the eaft by the country of the Oluterians; to the north by that of the Tchoukchis, and to the weft by the Toungoufes, the Lamouts, and the Ya kouts. It is confidently afferted that this country was formerly very populous, but that the G 2 fmall- 84 travels fmall-pox had made very confiderable ra vages. I doubt whether it has carried off more of the inhabitants than their frequent contefts with their neighbours and with the Ruffians. The number of fixed Ko riacs fcarcely exceeds at prefent nine hun dred ; and though it is not eafy to calcu late that of the wandering Koriacs, it is imagined that they do not much furpafs this amount. The manners of the former are the re- vefe of eftimable, and are a mixture of du plicity, miftruft, 'and avarice. They have all the vices of the northern nations of Afia, without the virtues. Robbers by nature, they are fufpicious, cruel, incapa ble either of benevolence or pity. To pro cure the leaft fervice from them, it is firft neceffary to offer, and even to give them fome recompence. Nothing but prefents can IN KAMTSCHATKA.' 85 can excite their attention, or roufe their activity *. From this perfidious and favage difpo fition, it would not be eafy for them to live in peace, or form any durable ties with their neighbours. So unfociable a fpirit muft alfo give them an abhorrence of all foreign dominion. Hence their continual infurrection againft the Ruffians, their atro cious robberies, their daily incurfions on the people who furround them ; hence the refpeetive animofities and revenge that in- ceffantly fpring up. This flate of war foments in every indi vidual a ferocious fpirit. The practice of attacking, and of defending themfelves, creates in them an inflexible courage that * I have not the fame complaint to make againft the wandering Koriacs. I found them in general more frank and obliging, and fhall prefently give a proof of it. ,' G 3 delights 86* TRAVELS delights in perpetual combats, and glories in a contempt of life. Super ftition lends its aid to ennoble in their eyes this thirft of blood, by impofing a law that obliges them to conquer or to die. The more important is the caufe that calls them to arms, the more greedy are they of death. Neither the bravery, nor the number of their ad- verfaries, can at all intimidate them : it is then they fwear to dejiroy the fun. They dis charge this terrible oath by cutting the throats of their wives and children, burn ing all their poffeflions, and rufhing madly into the midft of their enemies. The com" bat can only terminate by the total deftruc- tion of one of the parties, The vanquifhed never feek their fafety in flight ; honour for bids it ; and not a Koriac will furvive the flaughter of his countrymen. The vicinity of the Ruffian fettlements has hitherto produced no change in the mode IN KAMTSCHATKA. 8? mode of life of the refident Koriacs. Their commercial intercourfe with the Ruffians, only renders them fufceptible to the at traction of wealth, and defirous of plun der. Infenfible to the advantages of a more polifhed life, they feem to feel a repugnance to civilization, and to confider their own manners and cuftoms as abfolutely perfect*. Their * The wandering Koriacs were for a long time ftill more untraceable. The independence to which they were accuftomed, and the natural reftleffnefs of their character, little difpofed them to fubmit to the yoke. The Ruffians, befide, from a love of conqueft, were perhaps not remark able for moderation, and endeavoured probably to make themfelves feared rather than loved. It is certain that they . experienced the regret of feeing whole hordes fuddenly dif- perfe upon the leaft appearance of oppreflion, and fly, as in concert, far from the fettlements where they hoped, by the attraction of commerce, to fix them. Thefe frequent flights took place till the arrival of major Gaguen. By the mildnefs of his government, his repeated invitation?, and beneficial propofals, he has gradually brought back thefe fugitive families. Firft one returned, then two, then three ; the force of example, and a kind of emulation operated upon others, and when I was at Ingiga there were no lefs than eleven yourts in the neighbourhood of that town. G4 But 88 - TRAVELS Their regular occupation is hunting and fifhing; but every feafon will not permit But the fkilful policy of major Gaguen has ftill more fuccefsfully effe&ed the views of the Czarina, by taking advantage of the neceffary commercial intercourfe, gradually to eftablifh between the Ruffians and the Koriacs of both defcriptions in the neighbourhood, a reciprocity of good offices, a kind of agreement between individual and indi vidual, that reminds us of ancient hofpitality, and that will one day infallibly operate a revolution in the manners of this people. If a Koriac be obliged by his buftnefs to pafs the night in the town, he demands a lodging of his Ruffian friend, and without farther ceremony takes poffeflion. His hoft confiders it as his duty to receive him, to ftudy his inclina tions, to anticipate his wants, and his wifhes ; and in fhort, fpares nothing in order to entertain him in the beft manner he can, that is, to make him completely drunk. Upon his return home, he relates with pleafure the flattering recep tion he has met with. He confiders it as an obligation, a facred debt, of which he is anxious to acquit himfelf the firft opportunity that offers. This is a pleafing cuftom, particularly to a Ruffian foldier, who is obliged to make frequent journeys to the neighbouring villages. The gra titude of the Koriac towards his friend, does not confine itfelf to the affording him a lodging, regaling him, and fupplying him with provifions for his excurfion ; he pro tects him, and becomes his defence againft his country men. them IN KAMTSCHATKA. 89 them to follow it. During thefe intervals, fhut up in their profound habitations, they fleep, fmoke, and get drunk. Tnoughtlefs of the future, without regret for the paft, they come not our of their yourts till the moft urgent neceflity compels them. Thefe yourts are larger than thofe of the northern Kamtfchadales, but are diftributed nearly in the fame manner. I am not fure whether their filthinefs be not ftill more difgufting: as there is neither door, nor joupan, or vent- hole, the fmoke muft be infufferable. Thefe people, enemies to induftry, live like the Kamtfchadales upon dried fifli, and the flefh and fat of the whale, and fea wolf*. The whale is commonly eaten, raw, and the fea wolf dried and cooked in the fame manner as their fifh, except the finews, the * All the Koriacs whom I met with on my way from Pouftaretfk are equally fubjecT: to famine with the inhabi tants of that hamlet. The bark of the birch tree mixed with the fat of the fea wolf, is then their whole fubfiftence. marrow, QO TRAVELS marrow, the brain, and now and then a flice of the fleftr, which they devour raw with extreme avidity. Rein deer is their favourite difh. Vegetables alfo form a part of their food: they gather in autumn va rious forts of berries, of a part of which they make themfelves a refrefhing beve rage*, and the reft is bruifed to powder, and kneaded with the oil of the whale, or fea wolf. This pafte, or fweatmeat, is called toltchoukha ; it is held in high efteem in this country, but nothing is to my tafle more difagreeable. Their paflion for ftrdng liquors, increaf- ed by the dearnefs of brandy, and the dif ficulty of procuring it oh account of their extreme diftance, has led them to invent a drink, equally potent, which they extract * The rivers near this oftrog are fo fmall as to be en tirely frozen up as foon as the cold fets in, and during more than half the year the inhabitants are obliged to drink melted fnow or ice. from IN KAMTSCHATKA. Ql from a red mufhroom, known in Ruflia as a ftrong poifon by the name of moukha- morr*. They put it in a veffel with certain fruits, and it has fcarcely time to clarify when their friends are invited to partake of it. A noble emulation inflames the guefts, and there is a conteft of who is beft able to difburden the mafter of the houfe of his nectar. The entertainment lafts for one, two, or three days, till the beverage is ex- haufted. Frequently, that they may not fail of being tipfy, they eat the raw mufh room at the fame time. It is aftonifhing that there are not more examples of the fatal effects of this intemperance. I have feen however fome amateurs made ferioufly ill, and recovered with difficulty ; but ex perience does not correct them, and upon the firft occafion that offers, they return to their brutifh practice. It is not from abfo- lute fenfuality, it is not from the pleafure * It is ufed in the Ruffian houfes to deftroy infeds. Of £2 TRAVELS of drinking a liquor, that by its flavour creates an irrefiftible craving for more ; they feek merely in thefe orgies a ftate of obli vion, of ftupefaction, of total brutifhnefs, a ceffation of exiftence, if I may fo call it, which conftitutes their only enjoyment, and fupreme felicity. The features of the majority of the Ko riacs are not Afiatic, and they might be co'nfidered as Europeans, but for their low ftature, their ill fhape, and the colour of their fkin. The other Koriacs have the fame chara6teriftic outlines as the Kamtfchadales ; among the women particularly, there are very few who have not funk eyes, flat nofes, and prominent cheeks. The men are almoft entirely beardlefs, and have fhort hair. The hair of the women is very much neglect ed ; it commonly flows upon their fhoul- ders, though there are fome who wear it in tufts, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 03 tufts, or wrapt up in an handkerchief. Their drefs I have already defcribed. The women carry their children in a fort of cradle, the form of which I thought lingular. It is a kind of neft or bafket arched over, in which the infant is placed; in a fitting pofture, and fheltered from the weather. Among their ftrangC cuftoms I fhall men tion the probation to which a young man fubjects himfelf when he is defirous of mar rying. As foon as he has fixed his choice, he waits upon the relations of his miftrefs, and offers to drudge for them, as the phrafe is. The young lady is immediately enve loped in a multiplicity of garments, which conceal her to fuch a degree, that the face itfelf is fcarcely vifible. She is not left alone for a fingle inftant ; her mother, and a num ber of old matrons accompany her where- ever 04 TRAVELS ever fhe goes, fleep with her, and do not lofe her from their fight upon any pretext whatever. The aim of the lover, the point of happinefs to which all his cares tend, is to touch her naked body, the only way by which he can obtain her. In the mean time he executes with zeal and fubmiflion all the functions that the relations impofe on him. Become as it were the flave of the family, he is employed in all the domeftic labours, to cut wood, fetch water, provide ice, &c. Love, and the prefence of his intended, in fpire him with courage. If he relax, a fin gle look, however indifferent, is fufficient to make him forget the fatigues and drudgery of his fervitude. The hope of abridging its duration influences all his actions. His eye is invariably fixed on the idol of his neart, he watches her motions, follows her Heps, and intrudes himfelf inceffantly in her way. But how deceive the Argus eyes of the duennas that furrounded her ! It is a continual IN KAMTSCHATKA. 95 continual conteftof vigilance againft cun ning ; each party acts with equal zeal and perfeverance. From fuch affiduities, from the agitation of the lover, and the precau tions that are taken to counteract his ma noeuvres, one would fuppofe that he was about to carry off fome extraordinary beau ty. Who would imagine that the object of the thoughts and defires of this whining Koriac, was uglinefs itfelf, and that he af- pired to no other reward for fo many exer tions, than to touch a callous, yellow, grea- fy fkin ? |n his leifure moments, at liberty to fee and approach his miflrefs, he endea vours to merit her affection by fome fly at tempt to obtain a touch ; but the number and thicknefs of her garments are an invin cible barrier. Enraged at fo many obftacles* he tears and pulls off this teazing drefs. Woe betide him if he be furprifed in his rafh attack ! The relations, the inexorable fpies, dart upon him, and force him to relin- q6 travels relinquifli his prize. It is commonly by the eloquence of the foot, or a flick, that they entreat him to withdraw, and find fome better opportunity. If he refift, he is dragged by the hair, or the nails of thefe old hags are imprinted on his face. If he be < difheartened, or murmurs at this cruel treat ment, he is inftantly difmiffed, and forfeits for ever all claim to the alliance, which is eonfidered as the moft fignal difgrace that can be jnfii6ted on a Koriac lover. But dif ficulties only render his defires more vehe ment. Far from complaining, far from def* ponding at thefe rigorous proceedings, he confiders himfelf as the more worthy of the felicity he has in view. He rejoices, he glo ries in all the tribulations he experiences during his amorous and painful fervitude. r It is frequently not till after the expiration of two or three years, more or lefs, that he obtains his end. Elate with his victory, he flies to inform the relations of his fuccefsi The IN KA.MTSCHATKA. gft The witneffes are fummoned, and the young lady interrogated*. Her confefiioh is ne ceffary, as well as fome proof that fhe was taken by furprife, and made fruitlefs efe forts to defend herfelf. Her hand is then beftowed on the conqueror,, but he is oblig* ed ftill to wait till it is feen whether fhe can reconcile herfelf to living with him. From this moment, freed from his labours, hk makes his court without reftraint to his fu* ture wife, who is not perhaps forry to find iherfelf delivered from her cumberfome at> tire. This fecond ftage of courtfhip is fel* dom very long ; the damfel, in the preferice of the family, foon accords her confent, and nothing more is requifite to give him all the claims of a hufband. The nuptial cere mony and feaft confift merely in aflembling * The enamorata probably is not always obdurate, but "equally impatient with her loverto put ah end to this labo- , rious novitiate, and acknowledges' herfelf touched, before it has taken place* «- vol. n. H the §8 travels the relations of the parties, who are eager to get drunk in imitation of the new mar ried couple. A plurality of wives is not allowed among the Koriacs; I have feen inftances however of its being practiced without fcruple. Their funeral rights have a finking fimi- larity to the ancient inftitutions of paga- nifm, ftill obferved by various uncivilized people of the new hemifphere. When a Koriac dies, his relations and neighbours aflemble to pay him their laft refpects. They erect a funeral pile, upon which they place a portion of the wealth of the de- ceafed, and a flock of provifions, confiding' of rein deer, fifh, brandy, in fhort what" ever they conceive he will want for his great journey, and to keep him from ftarving in the other world. If it be a wandering Ko riac, his deef conduct him to the pile; if a refident Koriac, he is drawn by his dogs, or carried IN kamtschatka. gg carried by his relations. The body is ex hibited, clothed in his beft attire, and lying in a kind of coffin. There it receives the adieux of the attendants, who, with torches in their hands, confider it as an honour fpeedily to reduce their relation or friend to afhes. They feel only the regret of a fhort abfence, and not of an eternal feparation. They wear no mourning, and the funeral pomp terminates in a fcene of intempe rance, where the fumes of their liquor and tobacco gradually efface the remembrance of death. After a few months widowhood, the women are permitted to marry again. v. The fuperftitious practices obferved at their funerals, and their tranfient grief at the lofs of perfons the moft dear to them, are in my opinion an evident proof of their indifference to life, the brevity of which neither aftonifhes nor afflicts them. Their religious fyftem deadens them apparently H2 to 100 TRAVELS to the confoling hope of a protracted exift± ence. Death is in their eyes but the paf fage to another life; and in quitting the world, they do not imagine that their plea- fures terminate, but that other enjoyments are referved for them. This flattering pre judice, which I mentioned in my conver- fation with Oumiavin, fufficiently accounts .for his religious perplexities, and the fero cious courage of his countrymen. But their abfurd dogmas are entitled to a more parti cular relation, though the worfhip upon which they are founded is very fimple, and what is marvellous in it by no means at tractive. The following account contains the whole theogony of the Koriacs*. They acknowledge a fupreme being, the creator of all things. He inhabits the fun, * It is alfo that of the Tchouktchis, and before the introduction of chriftianity was the fyftem of the Kamt fchadales. whofe IN KAMTSCHATKA. lol whofe burning orb they confider as the throne or palace of the lord of nature, whom they probably confound with that celeftial fire, which is fuppofed to be his dwelling. I am led to believe this, as they neither fear, nor worfhip him. They addrefs no prayer to him: goodnefs, they fay, is his eflence ; all the good that exifts in the world proceeds from him ; and it is impoffible he fhould do an injury. May we not conclude from this flatement, that the view of the conftant and univerfal benefits conferred by . this king of the celeftial orbs which gives life, action, and power to all things terref- trial, while it taught them to confider this luminary of the world as their tutelary di vinity, imbued them with the blind confi dence I have defcribedj1 The principle of evil they confider as a malignant fpirit, who divides with the fovereignly good being the empire of H 3 nature*. 102 TRAVELS nature*. Their power is equal. As the one is intent on the happinefs of mankind, the other endeavours to render them unhappy. Difeafes, tempefts, famine, calamities of every kind, are his work, and the inftru- ments of his vengeance. It is to pacify his wrath, that they facrifice their perfonal in-> teref^, and have recourfe to devotion. Their homage is dictated merely by the terror with which this menacing deity fills every heart, and confifts of expiatory facrifices. They offer to him various animals, that have juft began to exift, rein deer, dogs -f, the * They believe alfo in inferior deities. Some they confi der as houfehold gods, the guardians of their ruftic habitati ons. Thefe idols, coarfely carved and blackened with fmoke, are hung up in the moft confpicuous part of their yourts, "They are dreffed in the Koriac mode, and adorned with bells, rings, and various other iron and copper trinkets. The other inferior deities they confider as inhabiting moim-, tains, woods, and rivers, which reminds us of the nymphs in the mythology of the ancient Greeks. + I frequently perceived in the courfe of my journey the remains of dogs and rein deer fufpended on flakes, and tef- tifying the devotion of the facrificers. m IN KAMTSCHATKA. 103 firft fruits of their hunting and fifhing, and whatever they poffefs that is moft valua ble. Their devotional exercifes confift of fupplications and thankfgivings. There is no temple, no fanctuary fet apart for his votaries. This fantaftic god is equally wor- fhipped in all places, and hears the Koriac who prays alone to him in the defert, as well as the affembled family, who conceive that they render him propitious by pioufly getting drunk in their yourt ; for drunk- nefs is become with thefe people a religi ous practice, and the bafis of all their fo- lemnities. This demon, this formidable fpirit, is dbubtlefs the fame being as the Koutka of the Kamtfchadales, whofe minifters and in terpreters the chamans confider themfelves. Here, as in the peninfula, the myftic lan guage of thefe magicians works upon the credulity, and obtains the veneration of the H 4 multitude. 164, TRAVELS multitude. They exercife phyfic and fuiv gery with equal' fuccefs. Thefe exclufive functions, which are fuppofedto be aided by infpiration rather than the light of experience, procures them an unbounded power. They are fent for from all parts of the country, and teftimonies of gratitude heaped upon them beforerhand. They demand with haughtinefs whatever they pleafe, and confider every thing that is given them as a tribute. It is upon the pretext of making an acceptable offering to the god, whofe organ they are, that they apr propriate to themfelves whatever the inha bitants poffefs, that is moft coftly and beau tiful. It is not neceffary to fuppofe that thefe impofters gull their votaries by a pa rade of virtue, by rigid obfervances, and a more fcrupulous life ; on the contrary, they -furpafs them in their vices, and fall fhort of them in fobriety. On the eve of their ma gic ceremonies, they pretend indeed to faft 5 • fffl IN KAMT&CHATKA. I05 all the day, but they make up for this ab- ftinence at night by a profufion of the moukamorr, the intoxicating poifon I have defcribed, which they eat and drink to fatiety. • This preparatory intoxication they confider as a duty. It is probable that they feel its effects the next day, and that they derive from it an elevation of fpirits that contributes to derange their minds, and give them the neceffary ftrength to go through their extravagant tranfports. i- The idiom of the Koriacs has no affinity to that of the Kamtfchadales ; their pro nunciation is more fhrill, and flower, but it is lefs painful, and has not thofe uncommon founds, thofe hiflings, as difficult to be ut tered as they are to be written. . I have ftill to give an account of the wandering Koriacs ; but not fatisfied with . #ie information J have obtained upon the fubject, 106* TRAVELS fubject, I fhall wait till my arrival at the houfe of Oumiavin s brother, where I fhall have an opportunity of afcertaining its truth, by comparing it with the objects that will be immediately before my eyes. From the time of my arrival at Ingiga, M. Gaguen, in compliance with my en treaties, had been employed upon the means of haftening my departure as much as pof- fible. Had it depended on myfelf, I fhould not have flopped more than twenty-four hours ; but unfortunately my dogs were fatigued, and there were very few to be procured throughout the whole town, and thefe not in the beft condition*. It was therefore * I difmiffed my conductors of courfe, \ have not yet mentioned the poft charges. While I travelled with M. Kafloff, they were defrayed by him, and I did not pay my fhare, till I came to quit him. The reader is intitled to a, note upon the fubjecT:, which I fhall here give him, Thefe changes are called in Ruffia progonn : a courier pays two IN KAMTSCHATKA. ,1©7 therefore propofed to me to take rein deer, which I accepted the more readily, as I hoped to travel the quicker, and as I had long been defirous of trying this mode of conveyance. I was not left in ignorance of the inconvenience attending it. I had to expert greater rifks, more fatigue, and lefs repofe ; but my impatience made me re- gardlefs of every thing but the poffibility of proceeding, and the pleafure of being able to judge for myfelf of the fpeed of thefe animals. To fatisfy my impatience, and enable me to continue my journey without interrup-, two kopecks per werft for every horfe, and other travellers four kopecks. A kopeck is equal to a French fou, or an Englifh halfpenny. In Kamtfchatka and Siberia the ex- pence is lefs by one half, and as dogs are almoft invariably made ufe of in the peninfula, they are charged at fo much per podvod, or team of five dogs. Three podvods, or fif teen dogs, are confidered as equal to one horfe in Siberia, for which a courier pays a kopeck per werft, and other tra vellers two kopecks, tions, 103 TRAVELS tions, M. Gaguen refolved to concert with the chiefs of the wandering Koriacs that were in the neighbourhood, and accordingly fent to invite them to his houfe. Two days after, twelve of thefe princes arrived, and a number of other Koriacs, who had received fimilar invitations. After the ufual compliments *, he pre- fented me to the affembly, explaining to * thein, * Thefe compliments do not, as with us, confiftof mere ceremony and cold civilities, accompanied with unmean ing words. The affembly is no fooner feated, than brandy is introduced. A domeflic diftributes three enormous bumpers to every individual, one of which would be fuf- ficient in any other country to make a man give in. Here it is merely a provokative to double and triple the dofe. A Koriac toper confiders it in no other light, and when it is prefented to him, he gives a complacent fmile to the whole company, and particularly to the mafter of the houfe, to whom alfo he makes a flight inclination of the head. He then fwallows, one upon another, without the leaft fign of repugnance, three glaffes filled as faft as poffible. The children drink it with as little averfion. I have feen a child fix or feven years old take off one of thefe glaffes, without making a wry face. Te IN KAMTSCHATKA. 10^ them, in a few words, by an interpreter* who I was, the importance of my embafly, and the neceffity in which I flood of their afliftance. This fhort explanation excited a general murmur. It was in vain M. Gaguen alledged the abfolute orders of government reflecting me ; their clamours increafed to fuch a degree, that it was im poffible to be heard, or to learn the caufe of their difcontent. At laft, amidfl this con- fufed noife, it was underftood that they complained of all the labour of the averages falling upon them, while the- fixed KoriaCs were exempt from any fhare in it. What To this copious diftribution of brandy M. Gaguen never fails to add fome prefents of iron, fluffs, or tobacco, and carries his attention fo far as' to confult the tafte and wants of each individual. The Tchouktchis, and the fixed Ko riacs, are treated with fimilar kindnefs. By this means he has gradually tamed thefe favage minds, and gained an in fluence and afcendency over them : a poor recompence for the facrifices he is obliged to make to provide thefe libera lities, the expence' of which falls folely upon himfelf, and from the dearnefs of every article in this country, muft be a heavy burthen tp him. claim 116 TRAVELS - claim had they to this over bearing immu nity ? By what privilege, like idle drones, fhould they be allowed to vegetate in their yourts ? Why not, like them, be fubjecled to the conveyance of travellers ? Thefe re- monftrancesj juftly founded, but peevifhty urged, began to alarm me reflecting the fuccefs of my demand, when an aged prince rofe up : " Is this," cried he, " the fit time " to make our complaints ? If our zeal be " abufed, is this ftranger refponfibleforit? " Has he the lefs claim to our good offices? " He fhall have my afliflance, and I will " conduct him as far as he fhall think ne- " ceffary. Confent only to efcort him to " my houfe. There are furely fome among " you who will render him this trifling " fervice."" Upon this fhort addrefs, fhame was vifible in the countenance of the whole affembly, and the moft mutinous were filent. After a mo- IN KAMT-SCdATKA. Ill a moment's paufe, every one attempted to exculpate himfelf from the reproach which he feared he had merited, and there was an emulation who fhould have the pre ference of conducting the ftranger and his attendants to the Stoudenaia-reka, or cold river, upon the border of which lived the obliging Koriac, who had voluntarily prof fered his fervices. Every difficulty being thus removed, my departure was fixed for 5 April, and the whole company engaged to attend my orders on that day. The old prince, who had fo generoufly pleaded my caufe, was the firft to withdraw from my thanks, upon the pretext of having various preparations to make before my arrival. How great was my joy to learn, that the perfon to whom I owed this change of dif pofition in my favour, was the hi other of Oumiavin, whofe acquaintance I had fo ar dently defired! From 112 TRAVELS From this inflant, M. Gaguen put every thing in motion for my departure. A num* ber of fmall wheaten loaves were made under his immediate infpection, and a fup ply of rye bifcuit. A variety of eatables, referved for his own ufe, was, in fpite of my remonftrances, packed up with my. bag gage. He added alfo feveral prefents, which I was obliged to accept, from the polite and friendly manner in which they were offered. In fhort, I know not how to enumerate all his kindnefles to me. Every hour, during my flay with him, was marked by an atten tion to my wifhes and an endeavour to oblige. His cares contributed equally with my repofe to re-eftablifh my health, which had been in no very enviable ftate fince the cold I had caught upon leaving Pouftaretfk. Prepared to depart 5 April, as had been agreed, how great was my furprife to fee none of my conductors arrive ! Various ex- preffes \ IN KAMTSCHATKA. }lg pfeffes were fent off ; but the whole day, parted before we had any intelligence. It , was night when they made their appear ance, each alledging that the delay had been unavoidable. The next day there was a new obftacle. It was Sunday, and the timorous con- fciences of my foldiers made them averfe to travelling. Was it neceffary to attend to this fcruple, or rather this terror? for it was fuperftition more than devotion ; it was not the facrednefs of the day that influenced them, but the idea that they fhould meet ¦ with fome misfortune. Notwithstanding the care I took to attend a Ruffian mafs with them, they were not to be prevailed on to fet out. After various in treaties to no pur- pofe, I was obliged, to ftay and dine with M. Gaguen, who politely congratulated himfelf upon the delay. Finding, how ever, that it deprived me of all enjoyment^ . vol.. n. I he 1 1^ TRAVELS he propofed to cure my people of their chi merical fears. I defied him, and he accept* ed my challenge. Immediately he ordered brandy to be profufely dealt out to all my attendants, Ruffians as well as Koriacs. Im perceptibly their heads were warmed, and gaiety made them forgetful of the pre tended danger. The moft reluctant were the firft to aflift in harneflihg the deer. It was no fooner faid than done, and my fledges were ready in an inftant. During this interval, a fcene took place that diverted me extremely. Oumiavin, out of compliment to me, became com pletely fuddled. The vivacity of his re grets led him to practice every fpecies of abfurdity, which he called taking leave of me. He went out, came in again, officioufly aflifted in every thing. My fledge was no fooiier ready than he muft lift it, to judge of its weight ; but unable to keep himfelf fteady* IN KAMTSCHATKA. 115 fteady, this good Koriac fell, and in falling, broke the point bf my fabre. His grief, at the fight of this trifling accident, was truly poignant. He precipitated himfelf at my feetj which he embraced, and wafhed with his tearsj conjuring me not to depart till I had forgiven him. I attempted to raife him, and affured him of my friendfhip ; but he perfifted in his pofture, and his tears continued to flow. It was not till half an hour, that, by means of entreaties and kind- heffesi I was able to pacify him. t came. out of the town On foot, escorted by almoft all the inhabitants, who were de-* firous, they faid, of doing honour to the only Frenchman that had ever vifited them* M. Gaguen, and the officers of the garrifon, infilled upon conducting me to the gates, where, having repeated my thanks for their Civilities, we feparated. Of il6 TRAVELS Of the four foldiers who compofed my fuife when I left Kaminoi, two only re mained with me, Golikoff and Nedarezoff ; I had left the others at Ingiga, which was the place of their refidence. Upon the re commendation however of M. Gaguen, I ac cepted the fervices of a young merchant, who afked leave to accompany me as far as Okotfk. During my abode at Ingiga, I had Jiad frequent opportunities of converfing with him, and knowing the value of his fo- ciety, and confidered myfelf as fortunate in meeting with fo agreeable a companion. It was to no purpofe that I had prepared to guide my own fledge ; every one oppofed me, from the fear that the want of knowledge and fkill as to my new fteeds, might occafion me fome fatal accident; they had befide been exprefsly injoined not to permit me, during the firft day at leaft. When I came to my vehicle, I found my guide already . I feated IN KAMTSCHATKA. 117 feated in front, and I took my place, with out paying any attention to him ; but upon. his looking round, I recognized in his fea tures a Koriac prince, named Eviava. He was eager to exprefs his joy in having the honour to conduct me, and then prepared to join the file. \ I have long owed the reader a defcrip tion of a Koriac fledge, and am now able to fatisfy his curiofity. The picture, I hope, will be fufficiently interefting to obtain his pardon for the delay. Upon two fkates, placed parallel to each other, that is, upon two branches of a tree, fix feet and an half long, three inches wide* and very roughly fmifhed, the extremities of which in front are bent upw'ards in the form of a demi-crefcent, is placed the body of the fledge, which is really nothing more than a frame of open work, five feet long 1 3 and 118 TRAVELS and eighteen inches wide, raifed two feet and a few inches above the ground. Twof fmall poles, about five inches in circum ference, conftitute the frame of this vehicle, the minuter parts of which are formed of thick laths, inferted the one in the other. A crofs bar, more fubftantial than thefe poles, unites their forward extremities, which are prolonged to the arches of the fkates, and fattened to them with leathern thongs. The lower part of this open work refts upon a fort of curvilinear feet, the lower ends of which, fpreading out, are in ferted in the fkates, and the back is con structed in the form of an open calafh, be ing fixteen inches high and twenty-four deep, difpofed in a femi-circular form, with fhort poles ranged at the top, in the perfo rations of a demi-hoop, nearly like the backs of our arm chairs in a garden. In this narrow inclofure, the traveller com monly places his provifions, or whatever 5 elfe IN KAMTSCHATKA, llg elfe is deftined for continual ^ufe. For my felf, I employed it to receive my box of difpatches, and feated myfejf upon it till the moment that I took the place of my guide. His feat is towards the middle 6f the open work, not far from the crofs bar ; here he places himfelf aftride, with his feet refting upon the fkates of the fledge. The team confifts of two rein deer placed abreafti with no other harnefs than a leathern collar, which partes acrofs the breaft and between the fore legs of the animal, and is faftened to his flank by a thong, in the man- ner of a trace, fo that that which belongs to the deer on the right, is faftened to the crofs bar of the fledge, and that which be longs to the deer on the left, to the bottom of one of the bent fupporters of the car riage, and on the fame fide. As reins, they have two flender thongs, one end of which is twilled about the root of the horns of 1 4 the 120 TRAVELS the deer*. When they want to go to the right, they pull the rein gently in this di rection, giving at the fame time a fort of back handed lafh to the animal on the left. When they want to go to the left, they give two or three fmart fhakes to the right rein, touching at the fame time the deer to which it belongs. The left rein has no other ufe than as a curb to the deer to which it is faftened. The driver has alfo a flick, one end of which is armed with a fort of ham mer. The head of the inftrument confifts of an horizontal bone, one of whole extre mities is very fharp, and is principally ufed to difengage the traces, of the deer, while * Sometimes the lower part of this rein is furnifhed with • little fharp pieces of bone, which, with the fmalleft fhock, ferve to goad forward the animals that are untraceable, and are continually employed, for that purpofe. In harnefling the rein deer, they are careful not to put on the right the beaft that is trained to draw on the left, the fledge would otherwife, inftead of advancing, be inftantly overturned* This trick, however, the Koriacs frequently play upon the Ruffians, who they think have treated them ill, they IN KAMTSCHATKA. 121 they are going on, if they happen to be come entangled about their feet ; and this is confidered as one of the niceft accom- plifhments of a driver. The other end of the bone is round and blunted, and ferves the purpofe of a whip ; but the blows that are given with it are much more fevere ; and are befide diftributed fo liberally, that the poor animals are fometimes covered with ftreams of blood. Thefe flicks are very apt to break, and they therefore take care to provide themfelves with a number of them, which are faftened lengthwife to the fledge. . We travelled very flowly till the even ing. The only inconvenience I felt was the not being able, for want of an interpreter, to enjoy the converfation of my princely guide. It doubtlefs deprived me of a fund of information which it was in his power to have furniflied, and our mutual taciturnity did 122 TRAVELS did not render my journey the more plea- fant. We flopped at feven o'clock. It was ne ceffary to gain a mountain well known to our Koriacs, and which had been marked in our itinerary as our firft ftage. I fhould in vain have wifhed to feek fhelter in a wrood, as had been my cuftom when drawn by dogs. The convenience of the traveller is left out of the account in the choice of a refting place; that of the rein deer only is confulted, and the fpot that moft abounds with mofs is invariably preferred. Half way up the mountain our fteeds were unhar- neffed, and no other care taken of them than that of tying them with leathern thongs. I faw them inftantly fcrape away the fnow, under which they well knew how to come at their food. At a fhort diftance we made a fire, and fet on our kettle, and the length of our fupper anfwered to its frugality. I admitted IN KAMTSCHATKA. I23 admitted my Koriac prince to my mefs, who appeared to be highly flattered with the honour. I then laid myfelf down on the fnow, and was permitted to fleep a few hours ; but when the time was expired, they awoke me without compunction to proceed on our journey. It is neceffary to obferve that the Koriacs will travel four, five, or fix days inceffantly without taking fcarcely any repofe. The rein deer are habituated v to run day and night. In every two or three hours they are unharneffed, and allowed the interval of an hour to feed, after which they fet off again with equal ardour ; and this mode is repeated till they arrive at the end of the journey. It may be fuppofed from this ac count, that I confidered myfelf as fortunate, when the night came, to be indulged with two hours uninterrupted fleep. The favour however was not long recorded to me, and by 124 TRAVELS by degrees I was obliged to accuftom myfelf to the practice of my inflexible conductors, though it was not without extreme dif ficulty. Before I remounted, Eviava informed me that he was under the neceffity of lighten ing our vehicle, the weight of two perfons being for a continuance too much for our fteeds, and that if I wifhed to make the experiment of being my own charioteer, he would take one of the empty fledges, with which we were furniflied as a refource in cafe of accident, or the lofs of any of our deer. The propofal coincided too well with my inclination for me to hefitate a moment in accepting it, and I inftantly feized the reins, and began my new apprenticefhip. I found it equally arduous with that to which I fubjected myfelf at Bolcheretfk, with this difference, that I was then the firft IN KAMTSCHATKA. I25 firft to laugh at the frequency of my falls ; whereas in the prefent cafe, I obtained the conviction of their danger at the rifk of my life. The trace of the deer on the left, be ing faftened to the fupporter of the fledge on ' the correfponding fide, nearly touches the left foot of the conductor, who muft be continually on his guard to keep clear of it. From forgetfulnefs or inexperience, I failed in this precaution, and my leg be came entangled. The violence of my fall, or more probably the fudden. and acute pain I felt in my leg, led me imprudently to relinquifli my hold of the reins, in or der to apply my hand to it. By what means could I difengage myfelf ? The deer, finding no longer the fame reftraint, ad vanced with greater fpeed, and every ef fort I made to get free encouraged and irritated them. Dragged along in this manner, my head fweeping the fnow and ftriking continually againft the fkate of the Hedge, 126 TRAVELS fledge, and feeling every moment as if my leg would be fhivered in pieces, it is fcarcely conceivable what I fuffered. I was no longer able to cry out ; I had loft all confciouf- nefs ; when, by a motion purely mechanical, I extended my left hand exactly upon the reins that floated by Chance. A new jolt of the fledge made me draw back my hand, and this involuntary check flopped my deer. Some of my people came up at the fame time, expe6ling to find me either danj geroufly wounded, or already deprived of life. Meanwhile after a fwoon of a few minutes, my fenfes returned, and I reco vered my flrength. The only injury I fuftained was a violent contufion on my leg, and a head-ache, which were attended with no very material confequences. The joy of having efcaped from this danger, gave me additional courage, and I afcertded my fledge, and purfued my journey as if nothing had happened. Become IN KAMTSCHATKA. 127 Become more circunifpect, I took care in future whenever I was over-turned, to checb immediately my deer, for I ought to confider myfelf as fortunate that, in their impetuofity, they did not proceed with me to the moun tains *. In that cafe how could they have been flopped ? Three or four days are fre quently fpent in this purfuit, and fome- times without fuccefs. This intelligence, which I received from my Koriacs, made me tremble for my difpatches, which were in a box faftened to my fledge, and were thus liable to be taken from me every moment. I perceived at the left of our road the village of Karbartda, Situated on the fea* coaft, and ninety werfts from Ingiga. We did not pafs nearer than a werft to it, and it appeared to be a Very inconfiderable * They had indeed quitted the road, but had only dragged me about fifty paces from it.! oftrog. 128 TRAVELS oftrog. Three werfts farther on I faw two yourts and fix balagans, which are occu pied only in fummer. We had ftill feven werfts to the place deftined for our halt, which was a wretched , hamlet in the middle of a fmall wood wa tered by the river Noyakhona. It confifts of a fingle yourt and three or four bala gans, inhabited winter and fummer by ten or twelve Koriacs, who gave me a tolerable reception ; for they Sheltered me at leaft ; and this was no trifling convenience to a man frequently obliged to fleep in the open air, and upon a bed of fnow. About two o'clock in the morning we fent for our deer, which had been conduct ed to a diftance from the hamlet, that they might have an opportunity of feeding, and be out of the reach of the dogs. We purfued IN KAMTSCHATKA. 120, purfued our journey, but the day afforded nothing inter efting. In the evening, Eviava, who was not well acquainted with the fituation of the yourt of Oumiavin's brother, propofed to me to afcend a mountain at the left, where he expected to find one of his countrymen that could direct us. In the fpace of an hour and an half we reached the fummit, but upon looking round, could perceive no trace of an habitation. The night would not permit us to extend our fearch. Perceiving that I was tired and little difpofed to go any farther, Eviava was unhappy. To fa- tisfy him, I defired that he would make the fearch without me, and that I would in the mean time, repofe myfelf in this place till his return. In about three hours he came with joy to awake me. He had found his friend, prince Amoulamoula and all his herd. They entreated me not to quit the vol. n, K place n i 11 lg0 TRAVELS place where I was till the next morning, being all defirous of coming to meet me, I was not forry for the event, as it procured me almoft a whole night's reft. As foon as it was light my vifitors came, The chief approached me firft, to pay me his compliments in the Koriac mode. He accompanied them with a beautiful black and red fox fkin, or fevadoufchka, which he drew from his parque, and obliged me to accept*. In return for this civility, I treated them all with brandy and tobacco, with which I had amply provided myfelf at Ingiga; and having thanked them for their kindnefs, I took my leave, fupplied * This proceeding was the more agreeable to me, as being perfectly unexpected. It was the firft prefent that any Koriac had offered me. I fhould not have obferved this, if, as having juft quitted the hofpitable Kamtfchadales who had loaded me with gifts, I had not been tempted to compare the characters of the two people. with 1 IN KAMTSCHATKA, I3I with the neceffary information to direct our courfe. Though the fnow was very deep, and not at all firm, our deer ran with furprif- ing eafe and lightnefs. Having broader feet, they do not fink fo much as the dogs, and have in this refpect the advantage, as there is no neceffity of going before them with rackets to clear the way. But then the dogs are not fo foon tired, and fpare the traveller the difagreeable circumftance of flopping every two or three hours. In my way I killed a number of par tridges. From the quantity we faw, thefe cantons muft be congenial to them. Some wild rein deer fled upon our approach with a velocity that fcarcely gave me time to ob- ferve them. Happily the abundance of my provifions took from me all defire to kill them, K 2 At 1^2 TRAVELS At noon we could diftinguifh the Stou- denaia-reka, and in an hour after we had croffed it, or rather we were arrived at the yourt of the brother of Oumiavin, in whofe hands Eviava had undertaken, to place me. My new holt came to meet me at the head of his family. Their fatisfaction at feeing me was vifible in their countenances, and theyieemed to ftrive who fhould prefs clofeft. The addrefs of the old prince was fhort, but replete with the cordiality which he had before demonftrated. Every thing he had was at my difpofal, and I might command the fervices of himfelf and his family. They immediately began to place my fledges and effects under cover. I had no other care than that of my difpatches, and before they would permit me to have even this trouble, I was obliged to explain to IN KAMTSCHATKA. I33 to them that I never trufted this box out of my own hands. When I entered the yourt, my firft care was to pay prince Eviava my poft expences. I had twelve fledges, each drawn by two deer ; the diftance we had travelled was a hundred and eighty-five werfts ; and I was indebted therefore feven roubles forty ko pecks. In receiving this fum, my good conductor exclaimed upon my generality. It was in vain I endeavoured to prove that I paid him no more than his juft due ; he could not comprehend my calculation ; and it was the continual burden of his fong, that he had never met with fo honeft a man. To pay him for having conferred an obligation upon me, was in his opinion an act of fublime virtue. So many encomiums, give room for fufpicion that the Ruffians prac tice" fomething more than, ceconomy ; and it is afferted, that their travelling in this K 3 country 134 TRAVELS country is not attended with much ex- pence. We fat down to our dinner, which was very joyous. Eviava and my hoft eat with me ; the brandy was not fpared ; and my enchanted guefts never remembered to have fared fo fumptuoufly. I employed the reft of the day in making obfervations, and interrogating the people about me. But the reader may have per haps the curiofity to know fomething more of the brave Koriac who received me with fo good a grace. His name alfo is Oumiavin, but he is diftinguiflied from his brother by that of Simeon, in which he was baptized when an infant. He confeffed to me with the ut moft franknefs, that he had no idea of the nature of the Chriftian religion. So little care IN KAMTSCHATKA. I35 care had beeeh taken to inftruct this young profely te, that he was ignorant of the very firft principles of the gofpel. Accuftomed to an abfurd mixture of the errors of his country, and a few external practices of Chriftianity to which he had habituated himfelf*, he happily found in his heart the principles of natural rectitude, by which alone his conduct was governed. Like all the Koriacs, he is fmall and fal low. His head is characteriftic of his mind. An expreffion of franknefs and benevolence, confirmed by the whole of his figure, pre judices us in his favour ; and his fhort white locks, added to the regularity of his fea tures, give him an air of true diftinction. He is. lame of his right-arm, in confequence of an obftinate conteft with a bear. His companions fled through fear, and he was * In the prefence of the Ruffians, he croffes himfelf be fore and after his meals, and when he enters his yourt. K 4 left I36 TRAVELS left alone to oppofe the monfter, and though he had no other weapon but his knife, he defeated and killed him. The chace, is his favourite amufement. Equally fkilful and intrepid, he is regarded alfo as a very for tunate hunter. But it is the ftrength of his mind, that renders him moft eftimable and interefting. The project he formed, and which he la ments the not having been permitted to execute, could only have been dictated by a head ftrongly organifed. It proves at leaft much good fenfe and deeper reflection than can be afcribed to the reft of his countrymen. It originated thus. Indocile and jealous of its liberty, this people had for a long time impatiently brooked the idea of being tributary to Ruflia. The fevere adminiflration of the governors was accufed by this favage tribe as IN KAMTSCHATKA. I37 as being a tyrannical abufe of power ; and doubtlefs, among the numerous fubaltern officers there were many who felt no com punction in haraffing thefe new fubjects of the emprefs. Simeon Oumiavin was the firft whofe indignation was roufed. More enraged at the obduracy of thefe extortioners, than at what was taken for them, it was impoffible, he faid, they could be authorifed by a fo- vereign whofe juftice and lenity were in- ceffantly vaunted. This judicious reflexion made the ftrongeft impreffion upon his mind, and awakened all his natural cou rage. Immediately affembling a few of his countrymen, who, like himfelf, were victims of the iniquity of thefe petty ty rants, he communicated to them his fuf- picions, and his defign. " My brethren/' faid he, « do you feel "the I38 TRAVELS «' the weight of your chains ? Were you " born to wear them, to be the prey of " thefe avaricious rulers, whofe rapacity, " ahufing every day the power entrufted " to them, leads them to regard us as a " property which they may fquander at " their pleafure ? How/ do we hope to de- " liver ourfelves from this fcourge ? We " cannot have recourfe to arms ; we are " too weak ; and new and more formidable " enemies would fpring up from the afhes f< of the dead. But we dare pafs the in> " menfe tra6l of country which they tra- " verfed t duced upon us. I merely, in a flight man ner, wafhed my mouth with it, and M. Kifr felioff his face ; he had the fkin of his face taken off, and I had my tongue and palate flayed, and for a long time was unable tp eat any thing hot or high feafoned, Having fatisfied my curiofity, we prepar ed to join our company. To effect this, we imagined that we were to pafs a mountain oppofite to that from, which the hot fpring iffued. Qur rakets made us retreat inftead of advancing, and we were obliged to take them off, and afcend by the help of our hands and feet. About three fourths of the way, overconie with fatigue, and ap- apprehen- IN KAMTSCHATKA. I53 prehenfive that we had miftaken the road, I intreated my companion, who was more accuftomed to this mode of climbing upon the fnow, to endeavour to gain the fummit, from whence I hoped he would be able to difcover our equipage. He fucceeded, and after waiting an hour and half in anxiety, I faw the good Koriac coming with a fledge to my afliftance. We had in reality taken the wrong direction, he informed me, .and Kiffelioff had been ten times on the point of perifhing before he found our camp. Upon my arrival we proceeded immediately on our journey, and did not halt till it was late, and we were twenty-five werfts from the hot fprings of Tavatoma. We had determined the 11, to pufh for the chain of mountains called Villeguinfkoi- khrebeut, but it was not practicable. At the clofe of day we could but juft perceive them; we advanced however till we came near I54 TRAVELS near enough to be fure of reaching them early in the morning. They appeared to be clofe to us, when we were ftill at the diftance of eight werfts. Having parted this place, we had to crofs a fmall river that winds at the bottom of thefe mountains, when we came to that of Ville- gui, which is theloftieft, and gives its name to the reft. At firft fight it appeared to be inacceflible. A narrow paffage prefented itfelf, and, confiding in my princely con ductor, we entered it. Four hours fcarcely fufficed to bring us to the peak. Conceive of an enormous mafs, atl eaft two hundred yards high, and nearly perpendicular, with rocks and ftones projecting in various places, and cleared by the hurricanes from the fnow. The little that remained made the footing fo flippery that our deer fell down every moment. In fpite of our exertions to fup- port the fledges^ the fteepnefs of the decli^ vity IN KAMTSCHATKA. I55 vity made them recoil, and we were under the continual apprehenfion of their falling upon us, whieh would infallibly have hap pened if we had flipped. Frequently in laying hold of a rock that feemed to ad here to the mafs, it gave way, and I loft my equilibrium. But for Oumiavin and my fpldiers, who were by my fide, and gave me timely afliftance, I fhould infalliably have precipitated to the bottom. Arrived at the fummit, I became giddy upon looking down the precipice I had climbed, and my heart fhuddered at the danger I had efcaped. I was far from thinking myfelf fafe, as I had to defcend. My obliging Koriac, to give me confidence, minutely explained the method I was to take, and his inflruction freed me from all fear of accidents ; but I was ftill uneafy, having left a part of my baggage at the foot of the mountain. Who, thought I to myfelf, will have the courage to 15b TRAVELS to go for it ? The intrepid Oumiavin un dertook the office, attended by fome of his people. I was tormented by a burning thirft., The top of the mountain was covered with fnow, but how were we to diffolve it, as there was not a fhrub to be feen ? The hope of finding fome at the bottom made me refolve not to wait for, my guide, but to avail myfelf of his leflbns, and defcend. We began by un- harnefling our deCr, and fattening them to the back part of our fledges, in each of which two men placed themfelves. We then Aid; down in the manner of the inha bitants of Peterfburg, who, during the car nival, thus amufe themfelves upon the moun tains of ice which they form on the Neva. With the aid of our fticks we guided and kept back our vehicles, and in lefs than ten minutes we were fafe. I had -the good for tune to perceive fome fmall cedars, and a fire IN KAMTSCHATKA. I57 [ire having been kindled, I allayed my thirft.' It was now two o'clock, and at feven we were all affembled ; Oumiavin met with no accident, but he was fo fatigued that it was nine before we could proceed. The next day's journey was lefs painful to us than to our deer. The fnow was more than three feet deep, and fo little firm that they funk to their necks. Many of them refufed to draw, and it was neceffary to leave them behind us. Such is the in convenience attending thefe animals, when one wifhes to make a long journey with only fhort intervals of reft ; as foon as they are tired, we muft abandon them or flop ; it is no longer poffible make them move. I had hoped to reach Toumane in the morning of 14, and we were within ten werfts- of it, when a violent gale of wind, accompanied with fnow, almoft blinded us. It 358 Travels It obliged us to relax our fpeed, and we did not enter the village till four o'clock in the afternoon. •It is fituated fouth-weft of Ingiga, at the diftance of four hundred and forty werfts, in a little wood through which the river Toumane* flows. Three yourts, an equal number of wooden magazines, and a dozen balagans make up the whole oftrog, the po pulation of which amounts to twenty fa milies. Though the river abounds with fifh*, I faw the inhabitants, either from in dolence, or a vitious tafte, feed upon the bark of the birch tree fleeped in the oil of the whale. The bad weather continued during the 15 and 16; but it would have been im poffible to have proceeded if we had been ever fo defirous, as our deer were incapable * We caught fome excellent trout. of in kamtschatka. 159 of drawing us any farther. Oumiavin dar ed not avow it, but his melancholy appear* ance told me/ what he would willingly have concealed. Upon my mentioning it to him, he began to make apologies, as if I had a right to complain, becaufe he found it im poffible to conduct me, as he had intended, as far as Yamfk. I had much difficulty to make him underftand that I was fully fatif- fied of his good will, and owed him my thanks for all his civilities; it was necef fary to aftume an air of difpleafure before he would accept fome prefents that I thought myfelf bound to add to my poll expences. By his advice, I intreated the inhabitants to fupply me with what dogs they had, but with all their efforts they could only procure me a very fmall number, and there was no other way of making up what I wanted, than that of harneffing young dogs, and even females that were ready to whelp. The l6o TRAVELS The generofity of thefe people was carried fo far as to offer me a part of their dried fifh, of which they had no abundance. The 17 the wind abated, but the fky was covered with black, and very ill boding clouds. In the mean time having taken leave of Simeon Oumiavin, and my Touma- ne hofts, I departed at one o'clock in the afternoon with my efcort, and all my bag gage, in five open fledges. Each team con- fifled of eight or ten dogs. I had taken a man extraordinary to ferve me as charioteer, having no longer either ftrength or courage to undertake the office : this fatiguing ex- ercife had wholly overcome me. We foon came to the fea, upon which we travelled in order to avoid feven mountains, which rendered the common route extreme ly difficult. We had fcarcely advanced fif teen werfts, partly upon the ice, and partly upon IN kAmtschatka. 161 ipon the coaft, when fortunately for us we tvere obliged to return, as the fnow began ;o fall, and the wind to blow with an impe- tuofity that drove our dogs back, and made our fledges totter. My guides delayed not to inform me of the danger ; and from the fear of mifleading us, they propofed that we fhould take fhelter in a deferted yourt that was at no great , diftance, and the fituation of which they were perfectly acquainted with. It is upon a fmall river called Yovannd, twenty werfts from Toumane. When we came up to it we were covered with fnow, and almoft frozen. We were all eager to defcend that we might be fcreened from the tempeft, but we found its entrance flopped up with fnow four feet deep. Having haf- tily arranged our fledges, we took our rackets, for want of {hovels, and began to open a paffage. This work occupied us att . vol. 11, M hour. l62 TRAVELS hour. We were ftill in want of a ladder ; the moft hardy ventured to leap down, and the reft followed them. We fell upon the carcaffes of fea wolves entirely frozen, and fome of them half devoured, doubtlefs by ravenous beafts, who, in the depth of win ter, had made this fubterraneous habitation their den. A leathern feine in one corner of the yourt, was the only indication that it had been vifited by human beings. It is to be prefumed that the neighbouring Ko riacs had made ufe of it as a refervoir. The walls were furrounded with icicles, which fell down in chryftallizations ; and in truth, I can only compare this dwelling to a large ice houfe. Its form was fquare, and its dimenfions about five feet deep by ten large. While we were employed in placing the fea wolves out of the way, that we might have more room to lie down, my conductors faftened IN KAMTSCHATKAi 163 faftened our dogs*, and gave them their allowance of food; at the fame time a fire was kindled, and having warmed ourfelves and eaten our fupper* I extended myfelf upon the leathern net we had found in the yourt. A fea wolf under my head ferved me as a pillow. My companions imitated my example; and, excepting the difadvan- tage of having too confined a fpace, we parted a very good night. We ceded ail entire corner to the Koriacs of my fuite, who huddled together, and were unable to llretch themfelves at their length ; but they made no complaint, and appeared not to be confcious of any inconvenience. I faw them fquat down, like apes, their head muffled * The fnow fell in fuch abundance, that thefe poor anlntals were in a manner buried under it. Accuftomed however to fuch weather, they crowd together, and always holding their nofes in the air, the heat of their breath, by penetrating their cold covering, creates a free paffage fo* refpiration. They have the fenfe alfo to fhake themfelves when the fnow becomes too heavy. Ms «p 164 TRAVELS up in in their parque, and their elbows retting upon their knees ; and in this pof ture they flept as foundly as if wholly at their eafe. The next day the wind changed, but its violence did not abate, and it was the more troublefome to us, as it drove the fmoke into the yourt to fuch a degree that we were fuffocated and blinded, and were ob liged not to light our fire except at our meals. , » I was defirous of remedying this incon venience by fome external contrivances ; but I had no fooner iplaced my foot out of the yourt than I was almoft blown down. M. Kiffelioff, who accompanied me, had his cap carried away, and was willing to pur fue it with fome of our conductors ; but it was to no purpofe ; at the diftance of fif teen paces he entirely loft fight of our re- retreat, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 165 retreat, and was only able to find his way back by the cries we made in anfwer to his. We at laft fueeeeded in placing a fence fufficiently high to. fecure a free paffage to the fmoke. From this moment we con tinued our fire, without intermiffion, night or day ; but in fpite of 'this care, we were all chilled. The dampnefs became equally infupportable. with the cold. The fire gra dually melted the ice that furrounded us and we had a thoufand dribblings over our heads, and a ftream of water under our f^et. To ijicreafe our difficulties, the fea wolves began to thaw, and diffufe a noxious odqur/ That which exhaled from our bo dies * was more than fufficient to make our ajytuin, a true fink. As it was impoffible to purify the air, we endeavoured. at leaft to * Our company confifted of ten, feven of whom were Koriacs, whofe filthinefs is well known. • •< M3 get 10O* TRAVELS get rid of our neighbours, the fea wolves ; and my guides were the firft to propofe that our dogs fhould be fed with them while we continued in this frightful fitua- tion. I. confented the more readily, as the fcantinefs of our dried fifh obliged me to confult ceconomy. In thus appropriating to myfelf what chance threw in our way, I doubtlefs did an injury to fome unfortunate inhabitants of this quarter ; but when re duced to extremities, felfifhnefs is fome times pardonable, Impatient to purfue our journey, I fent my Koriacs to obferve the weather.. In two minutes I faw them defcend perfectly covered with fnow, and fo chilled, that they could not open their mouths. \ heir re port correfponded with their fad appear ance ; but of all their exclamations, I was moft ftruck with the account they gave me, that the rocks, which were a few paces from IN KAMTSCHATKA. 167 from our yourt, and very perceptible the preceding evening, were now wholly invifible- The 20, the weather becoming calmsr, and the fnow having almoft fubfided, I ordered preparations to be made for our departure. Our dogs were therefore hai - neffed, and we had hoifled ourfelves out cf the yourt, when a terrible guft of wind de ranged all our meafures. The fnow came on as thick as ever, and we were obliged to retreat with precipitation, h&ppy that we were within reach of fhelter. Almoft in ftantly I found myfelf ill. I know not whether it were occafioned by pafling fud- denly from cold to heat, or by the putrid air I breathed in plunging myfelf into this fink, or the vexation I felt at fo many ob- ftacles ; but I continued nearly a quarter of an hour without fenfation, The zeal of my foldiers manifefted itfelf on this occa fion ; in order to reftore me, one deluged M 4 me 168 TRAVELS me v/ith water, while the other chafed my temples fo roughly with fnow, that he rub bed off, I believe, the fkin. My reflections, after this fwoon, were as melancholy as my fituation. I confidered my plan as wholly defeated by thefe imper "diments and delays, and was apprehenfrve of not arriving at Okotfk till the rivets were broken up. In the mean time this was indifpenfible, if I intended to make ufe of the mode of fledge travelling, to reach the place called the Crofs of Yudoma, or TudomJkoi~kreft. Hence I had defigned to proceed to Yakotfk by a circuitous paffage down }he rivers Yudoma, Maya, and Alf dann*, by which means I found that I fhould efeape the inconveniencies of the thaw, * Though this circuit was more than feven hundred werfts, the rapidity of thefe rivers infured me a fpeedy na vigation, by which I fhould have gained a confiderable ad-> vantage in point of time, befides the pleafure of enjoying the firft appearance of fpring. which IN KAMTSCHATKA. l6g which renders the road impracticable even to horfes. But according to the calculation I had made, the hindrance of a fingle day might occafion me a delay of more than two months. It is neceffary to have been in my place, to judge how very difcouraging was my profpect ; the dangers that befet me appeared in my eyes to be lefs ter rible. At length, the si, it was portible to pro ceed. The fky was ftill covered with clouds, and the fnow fell heavily, but the wind had ceafed, and we refolved to fet off in fpite of our apprehenfion of another hurricane, which would exceedingly have diftreffed us, as we had no hope of refuge till we came to Yamfk. We directed our courfe towards the fea, upon which we conftantly travelled at the diftance of two werfts from the fhore ; but in the evening we thought it prudent to approach , nearer, in order to halt. 170 TRAVELS halt. The ice was perfectly fmooth, and our little camp was eafily erected. The next morning we rofe tolerably early, and in order to avoid the curvatures of the fhore, we made for the main ocean. We had obferved fome bays the preceding evening, but they were lefs extenfive than one which we croffed in the afternoon1 of this day. Unfortunately, when we were oppofite to it, a guft of wind prevented us from examining it, I under flood, from my guides, that it was called from the river Iret, which falls into it, that it is almoft entirely clofed, and is dry in fummer, when the fea is low. In fpring it abounds with water fowl. The inhabitants of Yamfk and its environs catch them with nets, and hunt them with fticks in the moulting feafon. The fhallownefs of the bay, which is in all places fordablej is IN KAMTSCHATKA. 1^1 i is favourable to the diverfion of thefe fportf- men. Upon the approach of night we came on fhore, and halted till the morning in a wood of firs, upon the banks of the river Iret. -The 23 furniflied nothing remarkable. The wind affailed us with confiderable vio lence in the middle of a plain, the extent of which was twenty five werfts. I had again recourfe to my compafs, and we had not proceeded fifteen werfts, when the fky fuddenly cleared up. We met a fergeant with difpatches from Okotfk ; and a little farther, about three werfts from its mouth, the river Yamfk prefented itfelf. We pur fued its courfe, and paffed at the right an habitation of fifhermen, reforted to only in fummer. Six werfls farther we came to the oftrog of Yamfk, which is more than a hun dred 172 Travels dred and fifty from Toumane. My bifcuits were nearly confumed, and I was conftrajn- ed not only to fleep there, but to remain a confiderable part of the nex$ day, to fup ply myfelf with a frefh. flock of provifions, The ferjeant who commanded the garri- fon, which was cornpofed of twenty men, received me with civility. Upon the re commendation of the governor of Ingiga, he affiduonfly provided every thing of which I flood in need, and gave me the neceflajpy information. The oftrog, or fort of Yamfk, is upon the border of the river, ten werfts from its mouth, where it forms a bay that feems to promife excellent anchorage; but a variety of capes advancing a confiderable way, and a great number of fhoals with which the entrance is as it were blocked irp, render it .the more dangerous, as the paffage is nar row, IN KAMTSCHATKA. I73 row* and obliges the fhips frequently to beat about, or lie to for a favourable wind-, in order to pafs over them, for it is almoft impoflible to fucceed with a fide wind. From this account it is evident, that if the place were more confiderable and more frequented, fhipwrecks would be more com mon*. There are at Yamfk only twenty five houfes, built of wood; a part of which> where the church 7 is fituated, is furround ed with a fquare enclofure of pallifades, like that of Ingiga, but not fo high or fo thick. The inhabitants amount to twenty * A veffel from Okotfk was wrecked in this place a few years ago. The whole cargo, confifting of provifions, was loft, and almoft all the cfew perifhed. + All the fixed Koriacs between Ingiga and Yamfk are baptifed. Thefe two fettlements have but one prieft, whofe habitual refidence is at Ingiga. He feldom makes the circuit of his diftrift, which extends as far as the oftrog of Taoufk, the firft place belonging to the diocefe of Okotfk. families, 174* TRAVELS families, whofe mode of life is fimilar to that of the Ruffians. They have a method of making fait, that ' was new to me. The wood which the fea throws now and then upon the fhore, is collected with the greateft care. When it is dry, they burn it ; the afhes are after wards boiled, and the fediment which it leaves is a very white fait. Two days previous to my arrival at Yamfk, a troop of wandering Toungoufes had left this fettlement. To confole me under the difappointment of having miffed them, I was favoured with a fight of the full drefs, both of the men and women. They wear no chemifes, but a kind of ftomacher faft ened behind, and which defcends to the knees like an apron. It is embroidered with the hair of rein deer, and ornamented with glafs beads of various colours, to which are IN KAMTSCHATKA. I75 are added at the bottom plates of iron and copper, and a confiderable number of fmall bells. Under this apron they wear a fort of breeches, or pantaloon, made of fkin, and their legs are covered with long boots, which have the hair on the outfide, and are embroidered. A long waiftcoat covers their fhoulders, to the extremities of the fleeves of which gloves are faftened, with an open ing under the wrift for the fake of pulling them off more conveniently. This waift coat, clofe at the breaft, and fitted to the fhape, terminates near the middle of the thigh, and is alfo ornamented with em broidery and beads. From the fmall of the back hangs a tail, two feet long, but not very large. It is made of the hair of fea wolves, died of different colours. The head drefs is a fmall round cap, which widens a little on each fide to cover the ears. The whole attire is made of the fkin of young 176 TRAVELS . young deer, and trimmed with fables, otters, or other furs of equal value. The garb of the women is nearly the fame, except that it has no tail or gloves^' and that there is a fmall opening in the crown of their caps of about two inches in diameter, which is doubtlefs made for the purpofe of parting the hair through. Such is the mode of thefe people. In winter they wear thick fur clothing; but they are careful, for fear of injuring it, to Ghange their drefs the moment they enter their yourts, and to put on their worft gar ments ; and upon the moft trivial ocCafions they ftrip themfelves entirely naked. We felt this day the force of the fun, which announced an approaching thaw. Of confequence I furnifhed myfelf with plates of whale-bone to be faftened under the fkates of in kamtschatkA. 177 of my fledges, in cafe of neceffity ; and by the advice of the people of the country, founded on the experience of travellers in this feafon of the year, I refolved to travel in the night, and to reft in the day, when the fun had moft power. I came out of Yamfk at eleven o'clock in the evening, our caravan confifting of nine large fledges, or nartas** At break of day we found ourfelves at the foot of a mountain, fifty werfts from Yamfk. The Koriacs have given it the name of Baboufchka, or grandmother. The fummit, they fay, is the tomb of an old forcerefs, equally renowned and formidable^ My guides maintained that it was the loftieft mountain in this part of the world ; but their fuperftitious fears feem to have * The poft expences are the fame here as in Kamt fchatka for common fledges, though the teams of the narta& Confift of double the number of dogs. .. vol. 11. N mag- I78 TRAVELS magnified it, as, in my opinion, that of Villegui is much fteeper, at leaft I found more difficulty in afcending it. Arrived at the top of the Baboufchka, they placed iron cramps under their feet, in the form of fmall tripods, and faftened, tranfverfely un der the fledges, tolerably large' fticks, in order to impede the velocity in defcending. No farther care was neceffary than that of guiding them with the ofchtol, or flick point ed with iron, and we came to the bottom without any accident. The inhabitants of the country however Confider this defcent as dangerous, particularly when the in equalities are filled tip with fnow, whiehin that cafe become fo many concealed and inevitable gulphs, and, I am inclined to be lieve, frequently prOve fetal to travellers. In all probability, the dread which the Koriacs entertain of this Baboufchka ori ginated in the following manner. As ^ natural IN KAMTSCHATKA. 170, natural effect of their prejudice, they feel difpofed to acts of gratitude the moment they find themfelves out of danger. The Koriacs who attended me were eager to hang up their offering, which oonfifted of final! quantities of tobacco, fcraps of fifh, pieces of iron, &c. upon the fummit where 'they fuppofe the forcerefs to fleep. Others had left there before them old cramps of iron, knives, arrows, and broken arms . I per ceived a Tchouktchi javelin ornamented with ivory, and, I advanced to feize it with a view of keeping it, but the cry of my conductors flopped me. " What would you do?" faid one of them. " Are you defirous of «* ruining us? Such a facrilege would ** idraw down upon us the moft dreadful " calamities, and you would be unable to " purfue your journey." At this apoftrophe I could have laughed in the face of the timid prophet, if I had not flood in need N a, of t8o TRAVELS of the fuccour of thefe people. To con tinue to merit it, it was neceffary to re- fpect their error, and I affumed therefore a becoming gravity ; but no fooner had they turned their backs, than I laid hold of this terrible arrow, as a monument of their ab- furd credulity. The firft village I came to was Srednoi., There is fomething picturefque in its fitua- tion, which is upon the border of the fea, at the entrance of a deep bay that lofes it felf in the land, by forming the channel of a' fmall river, the water of which is always free from any, brackiftl tafte. The Koriacs, who inhabit it, received me With cordiality. I relied myfelf for a few hours in one of the two yourts, which, with a number of magazines, conftitute the whole oftrog. The yourts are conftructed like thofe of the fixed Koriacs, with this difference, that they are - -not fubterraneous, and that the entrance is IN KAMTSCHATKA^ l8l by a door upon a level with the ground. Mufcles abound on thefe coafts, and are the principal food of the inhabitants. I came away in the evening with frefh dogs, and travelled eight werfts upon the river Srednoi. The ice, in various places, broke under our fledges, but the hardinefs and fjkilh of my guides extricated us from the difficulty. Obliged to go on fhore to free the vehicles, they had the precaution to put on their rackets, that they might have a more extenfive footing on the ice. But the greateft inconvenience 'in travelling on this river was occafioned by the flipper inefs of the ice ; our dogs were unable to fupport them felves, and fell down every nioment one upon another. Before noon of the 26*, wTe reached the oftrog of Siglann, the laft in the Koriac ter ritories, which is upon a river of the fame N 3 name. l8s TRAVELS name. It is feventyieven werfts from the preceding, and is neither larger nor more populous. It contains only one yourt, built like thofe of the Yakoutes, the defcription of which I fhall defer till my arrival with thefe people. I flayed at Siglann to arrange the fkates of our fledges, that is, to faften plates of whale-bone under them, which the melting of the fnow rendered neceffary, and I departed at five o'clock in the evening, I firft croffed a bay, called by, the name of the village. It was large, and appeared to be well defended, except at the fouth and fouth eaft. The whole coaft is of confidera ble height, and the bay extends fo far, that I was eight hours in gaining the weftern cape. Farther on I found another curva ture not lefs confiderable, called the Bay of Ola. In fpite of the velocity of our pace, we were ten hours m paffing over the wideft part of it. The IN KAMTSCHATKA.' 18,3 The 27, about three o'clock in the after noon I ftopt at Ola, a Toungoufe oftrog, a hundred and fourteen werfts from Siglann. It is. fitiiated upon a fandy flat at the mouth of the river Qla, which, widening at this place, affords a finall harbour, to the extre mity of which the Toungoufes retire in the fevere weather. They had quitted it two days before, and had taken poffeffion of the ten yourts that make up the village, and in which they refide as long as the warm wea ther lafts. , Thefe yourts are not formed under ground, like thpfe.of the Kamtfchadales and the majority of the fixed Koriacs ; they are alfo longer and of a fuperior conftruction. The walls are fupported by thick ports, and there is a narrow opening at the top of the roof, that extends from one end to the other ; the fire place is in like manner of the fame length as the houfe. Eight feet N 4 above 184 TRAVELS above the fire, which is kept in during the whole fummer, they hang upon crofs beams their ftock of fifh and fea wolves, in order to dry and fmoke them, and this indeed is the chief advantage of thefe buildings. By means of two doors in oppofite fides of the yourt, they are able to introduce whole trees and enormous pieces of wood, with which the fire is fupplied. Each family have their bed in little diftinct huts in the , fides of the building. The yourt I entered was divided into apartments, the Walls of which confifted merely of prepared fifh fkins, fewn together, and ftained with dif ferent colours. This fingular tapeftry has by no means a difagreeable appearance, The winter yourts are round, and built xipon the ground like the fummer ones. The walls are conftructed of large beams, placed perpendicularly, and the cover ing is inclined like the roofs among us, with IN KAMTSCHATKA. 185 with a hole in the top for the evaporation of the fmoke. They have a door, the bot tom of which is upon a level with the found ation. Some of them have within a kind of corridor, which breaks the column of air, fo that the fmoke iffues more freely. The inftant of my arrival at Ola, I was vifited by a number of women, fome dreffed in the Ruffian, and others in the Toun goufe mode. Expreffing my furprife at feeing them fo fine, I was informed that it was the village feaft ; it was alfo, I under stood, a part of their Coquetry to appear in their beft attire before ftrangers. Of their moft efteemed ornaments, embroideries of glafs beads feem to have the preference. Some of them are wrought with tolerable tafle ; among others, I obferved one on the boot of a young girl that had an admirable air pflightnefs; it concealed in no refpect the beauty of the leg, that was covered with a t86 TRAVELS kind of pantaloon of fkin, nicely fitted, over which hung a fmall petticoat. There is a ftriking refemblance between the Ruffians and Toungoufes ; they have fimilar features and the fame language. The men are ftrong and well made ; fome of the women have an Afiatic appearance, but not the flat nofe and broad face of the Kamtfchadales and the majority of the Ko riacs. Mildnefs and hofpitality feem to be characteriftic qualities of thefe people. It was not from a defect of zeal, on their part, that I did not procure the fuccour I want** ed ; but their ability was fo fmall, that they could only change a part of my dogs. Upon leaving this village we proceeded on the fea. The ice embaraffed us con fide rably in the courfe of the night, and the frequent cracks which we heard under us, were not calculated to difpel our fears. At IN KAMTSCHATKA. 187 • At break of day we reached the main * land, in order to furmount a fleep pro montory. Our way was fo complicated, that we had allowed ourfelves feven hours to gain the fea again, but the defcent was more difficult than had been reprefen ted, and it was neceffary to make ourfelves a paffage through a wood of birch trees. One of my guides, fuffering himfelf to de- fcend like the reft, by the mere force of the flope, from the top of the mountain to the bottom, was overturned by the fliock of a fledge, which ftruck againft him juft as he was turning an angle. He endeavoured to lay hold of the trunk of a tree, and unfor-? tunately fell upon the pointed end of his flick, which entered his fide ; he had alfo received a violent blow in the head, and we were obliged to place him on one of our baggage fledges. At the foot of the mountain we had ano ther l88 TRAVELS ther perplexity, occafioned by the fea being broken up. How great had been our rifk during the night! My conductors were terrified at it equally with myfelf. " What " will become of us," cried they? "> It is " now that we have the moft alarming " dangers to encounter." Diffembling my uneafinefs, I attempted to encouraged them. We continued our courfe for fome time along the fhore ; a melancholy filence pre vailed among my people, whofe counte nances were expreffive of confternation. In about half an hour the perfon at the head of the file fuddenly flopped, exclaim ing that it was not poflible to proceed any farther. I conceived at firft that his terror magnified the difficulties, and I fent my foldier Golikoff with one of the moft ex perienced of my guides to examine our fi liation. They quickly came back, and con firmed the ill tidings. Golikoff advifed that we IN KAMTSCHATKA^ l8p, •we fhould return, and endeavour to find a way by land, but my guides rejected his „Counfel, declaring that it was nearly impof fible to afcend, on this fide, the mountain we had juft paffed, and that even if we-fuc- ceeded, the route would be too confiderable, and alfo too dangerous on account of the, rapidity of the thaw, and their little ac quaintance with the country. They con cluded by propofing to us to abandon our fledges, to felect the moft valuable part of my property, and to crofs the bay by leap ing from one fheet of ice to another. But the current began to put them in motion, and the fea was covered with ifolated pieces ; it may be fuppofed therefore that I felt no great inclination to adopt this mode of tra velling, to whiph however the people of the country are frequently reduced. I knew not what plan to follow ; at length I re folved to try myfelf if I could not find fome practicable path along the fhore. A chain igd TRAVELS A chain of rocks, which, through its whole extent, prefents to the fea a flat per pendicular furface, and confequently with out the leaft appearance of flrand,' was the defcription of the fhore I vifited. The fea, in carrying off the mountains of ice which had concealed its furface, had left a horizon tal cruft fufpended to the fide of this enor mous wall, which was not more. than two feet wide, frequently not more than one, and fcarcely one foot in thicknefs. Eight feet below this fort of cornice, you faw the waves beating againft the rock, and innu-. merable fhelves that the eye difcovered in the fea, and that feemed about ten feet bel low its furface. I did not fuffer thefe obfervations to dif- courage me, but immediately committed myfelf to this perilous cornice. Embol dened by its folidity, I advanced foftly in a fidelong direction, my face turned towards the IN KAHTSCHATKA. lgi the rock. It offered no hold to the hands, but only now and then a narrow cavity, into which I threw myfelf to recover breath ; after having paffed the gaps of the cruft, which continually prefented themfelves to my fteps, the ice being in certain places completely wafhed away, and a breach. left of two or three feet in length. At firft I muft confefs I felt myfelf intimidated, and did not leap them without trembling : the leaft error in pofition, the moft trifling accident would have deftroyed me. My ¦Companions could not have relieved, nor even fo much as have feen me. This pro- progrefs continued for three quarters of an hour, at the end of which I reached the . other extremity of the rock, and no fooner had I arrived than I forgot the dangers'of the way to think only of my difpatches. I had left them under the care of my foldiers, •but I alone could undertake to fave them. The experiment I had made encouraged me, and lgz TRAVELS and proud of my difcovery, I did not hefi- tate to return upon my fteps. My people condemned my conduct, which they confidered as rafhnefs, and expreffed their aftonifhment at feeing me again. I concealed not from them that the way was hazardous ; " but as no accident had hap- " pened to me, why, I afked, fhould you be " deterred from following me? I will once " more make the attempt, and I hope upon " my return tp find you free from appre- " henfion, and difpofed to imitate my ex- " ample." I immediately took up my port-folio,' and the box that contained my difpatches. My two foldiers Golikoff, and Nedarezoff, whofe dexterity I had already experienced, confented to accompany me. Without their afliftance it would, I believe, have been im poffible to fave this precious depofit; we carried in kAmtschatka. 193 Carried it in turn, exchanging it from one to another. He that had laft received it, for jnftance, who always marched foremoft upon this narrow parapet, threw it fud denly into a hollow place of the rock, ad vancing at the fame time a few fteps ; the others came after him, took up his burthen, and relieved themfelves from it by the fame manoeuvre. I cannot exprefs what I felt during this operation ; at every ftride of the bearer over the gaps of the path, I imagin- ed I faw my box ready to fall into the fea. Twenty times it was upon the point of ef- caping from our hands, and I felt my very blood curdle as if I had feen death itfelf gaping under my fteps/ Indeed I am not 'able to fay what would have been the effect of my defpair, if I had had the misfortune to lofe it. I knew not a moment's eafe till I had depofited this folemn charge in a place of fafety ; my joy was then as vehement as had been my anxiety. frou 11. O This I04 TRAVELS This fecond fuccefs infpired me with fo much confidence, that I no longer doubted of the poflibility of tranfporting our fledges in the fame manner. I communicated my ideas to my foldiers : animated by my ex ample, and by the event of their firft expe riment, they cheerfully returned with me for this new undertaking. , By my order they had unharneffed a part of the dogs; they now faftened to the four corners of the fledges long thongs of leather which I di rected to be held by thofe who were before and behind the vehicle. We prefently found ' the utility of this precaution ;- our fledges were fometimes wider than the parapet, and of confequence only relied on one fkate, fo that the load muft have overturned them into the water if they had not been ftrongly fupported ; at other times the ice, as I have faid, was entirely gone, when it was necef fary to give them a fudden elevation in or der to preferve their equilibrium. The'muf- cilar IN kamTschatka. -10,5 cular arms of my guides were fcarcely equal to the Weight, and it was fometimes as much as all of us could do to keep one another from falling. It was to no purpofe, for us to grapple the rock.; it was perpetually to be feared that one of us fhould draw in the other, or that the ice fhould fuddenly fail under our feet. We however fuffered no thing but the apprehenfion. We returned once more to fetch the reft of our dogs. It feemed as if thefe poor animals judged better than ourfelves of the extent of the danger, fo much did they bark and draw back, particularly at the dif- ficult paffages. It was to no purpofe to cheer them with our voice, it was neceffary toftrike them, or to pull them rapidly after us. There were four of them, who from aukwardnefs or terror, could not leap like the reft. The firft perifhed in our fight O s without 1Q& TRAVELS without the poflibility of our affifting him*, the fecond remained fufpended by his fore feet ; one of my guides, fupported by his comrade and leaning forward, was fortunate enough to fave him; the other two were fupported by their traces, and were eafily extricated from the peril. Thefe various erodings backward and forward occafioned us feven hours inceffant labour and apprehenfion. We were np foOner out of danger than we returned thanks to heaven like fo many perfons ef caped from death. We embraced one ano ther with tranfport, as if each had owed to his companion the prefervation of his life. In fhort, our happinefs was better felt than it is in my power to defcribe. * This was a real lofs to my cohdu&ors: there are dogf of a price as high as' fifty roubles, and hot one of them if Ibid for lefs than five. w« IN KAMTSOHATKA. IgJ We made all poflible hafte to remedy the diforder of our equipage, and imme diately proceeded on a flinty flrand, the breadth and folidity of which relieved us from all difquietude. In about two hours, at a little diftance from the oftrog of Ar mani, we met a .number of fledges return ing empty to Ola, and which of courfe could have no other way than that which we had juft parted. We informed the conduftors of the difficulty, and wifhed them equal fuceefs, The village of Armani is eighty werfts from Ola, It confifts merely of two yourts, a fummer and a winter one, fituated by a river of the fame name. We paffed on to the houfe of a Yakout, three hundred paces farther, where, it was faid, I fhould find a better lodging. It was a yourt in the middle of a large wood of fir trees, ancj had been inhabited byiiim thirty years. 03 U lgS TRAVELS In his abfence his wife received me with the utmoft cordiality. She offered us milk, and a fourifh beverage made chiefly of mare's milk, called koumouifs. Its tafte was by no means difagreeable ; and my Ruffians, in fpite of their fuperftitious averfion for every kind of food that comes from the horfe, highly relifhed it. The hufband ar rived while this was parting, who was a ve nerable old man, but as yet full of health and vigour. Informed of the object of my journey by his wife, and my foldier Goli koff, who, being a native of Yakoutfk,, ferved as interpreter, my hoft inftantly Cleaned the moft diftinguiflied place in the room that I might repofe myfelf. I was awaked by the lowings of the herd which came into the yourt. Eight cows, a bull, and a number of calves, divided the apartment with me. Nofwithftanding this company, there was an appearance of clean- linefs, and the air was *fweet and wholefome. This IN KAJMTSCHATKA. igg This Yakout does not pafs his time like the Koriacs and Kamtfchadales, in catching and preparing fifh, a fpecies of food upon which he fets little value ; hunting, and the care of his cattle, occupy his whole attention, and fupply all his wants. Befides his herd, he has alfo ten horfes, which he ufes for various purpofes, and which are kept in an inclofure at a little diftance from the yourt. Every thing about this habitation has an air of eafe, and creates in the fpeCtator tran quil and cheerful feelings. I know not whether the fight of the herd, the appear ance of plenty, or the excellence of the milk provifions communicated fome charm to our repaft, but I conceived it to be the moft fumptuous I had made for a confiderable time. The mafter of the houfe had the kindhefs before my departure to add fome game to my ftock of provifions. We feparated the fame evening mutually O 4 fatisfied 20O TRAVELS ¦ fatisfied with each other. I travelled the whole night, and arrived in the morning at the fort of Taoufk, being a diftance of forty-two werfts. This oftrog, where, in conformity to the plan we had laid down, we fpent the day, is fituated on the river Taon. It contains twenty ifbas, a fmall church ferved by the vicar of Okotfk, and a building for the reception of tributes, furrounded by palifades in the form of baf- tions. , Twenty Yakouts, two chiefs, and fome other Koriacs, who, attracted by the fituation, have fettled there, make up the whole of the inhabitants. The garrifoa confifts of fifteen foldiers, commanded by a ferjeant named Okhotin, at whofe houfe 1 took up my abode till the evening. In the night I paffed through the village of Gorbe", peopled by Yakouts, and a fmall number of Koriacs. At break of day we ioft fight of the fea. We had for fome time journeyed IN KAMTSCltATKA. 201 journeyed upon the banks of the Taon, and gradually we advanced farther into the land. During 1 and a May, we travelled through fields, and upon the river Kava, without perceiving a fingle habitation. ¦ The 3, at the very inftant when we were about to halt in the middle of a wood of fir trees, a gale of wind rofe, accompanied with a heavy fnow. My tent, fufpended over the fledges containing our baggage, ferv ed us for a fhelter. But it was neceffary to have a fire. My conductors, who undertook to procure wood, were buried as high as their waifts in fnow, and even with their rackets they funk up to their knees. In the afternoon the wind changed, and the fky became clear. We immediately mounted our fledges, but the depth of the fnow ob liged us to alight in turns to open a paffage for the dogs. In 202 * TRAVELS In the morning of 4 May, we parted over the mountain of Ine, two hundred and twenty werfts from Taoufk. It may be com pared in height to that 1 of Baboufchka. When at the fummit, the cold pierced us to fuch a degree that we flopped to kindle a fire. In about five hours we came again to the fea, which we left at a fhort diftance from the village of Ine", where we arrived in the dufk of the evening. This oftrog is thirty werfts from thei| mountain, and is peopled by Ruffians and Yakouts, whofe habitations are ifbasAand yourts. They have the care of a ftud of two hundred horfes, which we had an op portunity of feeing, ten werfts from the village. I intended to have changed my team, and fat off again immediately, but I was detained by the difficulty of procuring dogs. The chief of the place was dead drunk, and it was not till after an hour's impor- IN KAMTSCHATKA. 203 importunity and fearch that we were able to procure an adequate fupply. Twenty-five werfts from Ine, where, that I might make the greater fpeed, I had left my equipage under the care of my faithful Golikoff, with orders to follow me as quick ly as partible, I parted two yourts inhabited by Yakouts and Toungoufes. The name of this hamlet is Oulbe\ Farther on I met a number of convoys with flour, which was to be diftributed in the neighbouring vil lages, and made into bifcuits to fupply the fliips of M. Billings, of whom I fhall pre fently have occafion to fpeak. We came again upon the coaft, and I travelled forty-feven werfts without quit ting it, during which time I faw a number of fea wolves, and a whale driven upon the fhore. At the top of the mountain called Marikann, that is at the diftance of twenty- five 204. TRAVELS five werfts, I had the pleafure to difcover the town of Okotfk, but I was attacked by a gale of wind that made me apprehenfive of a new delay. Regardlefs of every thing but my impatience, I continued my route, refolving to brave all accidents. My cou rage however was not put to the teft; before we reached the fhore the weather was calm, and I was able to fatisfy my curiofity by examining the wreck of a veffel that was driven on the coaft. Having croffed, with trepidation, the river Okho- ta*, I entered Okotfk 5 May, at four o'clock in the afternoon, .accompanied only by Nedarezoff, I alighted at the houfe of major Kokh, veiled with the command in the abfenoe of M. Kafloff, whofe arrival with me he had long expected. The governor's letter informed * The ice bent under my fledge at every ftep. him IN KAMTSCHATKA. ©05 him of the caufe of our feparation, and I gave him a brief account of the melancholy circumftances attending1 it. I haftened to pay my compliments to Madame Kafloff, and deliver the packets entrufted to my care, but fhe was in the country four werfts from Okotfk, and I was fo fatigued that M. Kokh would not permit me to wait upon her that day. An exprefs was fent off with the let ters, and my apologies, and I fixed on the next day for my vifit. Prefuming that I principally flood in need of repofe, the major obligingly conducted me to the apartment deftined for me in the houfe of M. Kafloff. I found every convenience of which I had been deprived ever fince my departure from Ingiga. In the fpace of three hundred and fifty leagues I had not, except once at Yamfk, flept in a bed. As foon as I rofe in the morning I was vifited by M. Kokh, and the principal offi cers 2O0* TRAVELS cers and merchants of the town. M. AI- legretti, furgeon to the expedition of M. Billings, was among them. From the faci lity with which he fpoke the French lan guage, I fhould have taken him for a coun tryman, if he had not, upon introducino- himfelf, informed that he was an Italian. My meeting with him was the more fortu nate, as the pain in my breaft had returned. I hefitated not to confult him, and am hap py in having an opportunity to declare, that to his fkill, and the care he beftowed upon me during my ftay, I am indebted for the perfect cure of my complaint. M. Kokh conducted me to his houfe to dinner, where I had an opportunity of be coming better acquainted with him*. His kindnefs * M. -Kokh was born in Germany, and fpoke the Ruf fian language as fluently as his own ; he wanted only confi dence to exprefs himfelf equally well in French. He had long IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2C>7 kindnefs extended fo far as to form a thoufand \ plans of amufement* which he was eager to communicate with the hope of inducing me to make fome ftay with him. ^If my duty had not prohibited every vo luntary delay, I could not eafily have re filled the urgency of his invitations, and the fafcinating pleafure of his fociety ; but faith ful to my truft, it was neceffary to facrifice my inclinations and my repofe to the rapi dity of my journey. I convinced my hoft of this, and yielding to my reafons, he be came fatisfied with my eagernefs to quit him, and even feoonded my zeal by affidu- oufly" providing the means for my depar ture. long retired to this fettlement with hie wife and three chil dren, where he lives in peace, furrounded by his, little fa • mily, rich in. the public efteem, and happy in the opportu-» nity which his fituation affords him of doing good. The 208 TRAVELS The rain had been inceffant fince my ar rival, and the people who were fent out to examine the roads, conceived them to be -impaffable, at leaft with dogs. From their report, the daily increafe of the thaw de prived me of all hope of advancing farther, unlefs by means of rein deer, and M. Kokh therefore fent an exprefs to a horde of wan dering Toungoufes that had left Okotfk a few days before, to procure me a fupply of thefe animals. Having taken thefe meafures, the major accompanied me to Boulguin, the country houfe of Madame Kafloff, who received me as the friend of her hufband, and the compa nion of his dangers. The object of her af fections was the fubject of our whole con- verfation. She demanded an account of all our difficulties at the period of our fepara- tion. It was in vain that I attempted to foften in my defcription fuch circumftances as in kAmtschatka. 209 as were calculated to imprefs themfelves too forcibly ; her fenfibility told her that it was from an ttnwillingnefs to give her pain, and it only alarmed her the more. I did not well know how to confole her, for I was not myfelf without anxiety reflecting this valuable man; but aflifted by M. Kokh, I affumed with tolerable fuccefs an air of ferenity. I had recourfe to conjectures; and the major, on his part, mentioned a variety Of confoling expedients ; and at laft we reftored tranquillity to the mind of this affectionate wife, by flattering her with the fpeedy arrival of M, Kafloff. This lady was born at Okotfk, and appeared to have had the beft education ; fhe fpoke the French language with elegance. In the fo- litude of her retreat, her chief happinefs was placed in educating a daughter about three years old, the exprefs image of her father. vol. 11. P Having SlO TRAVELS Having made all my vifits to the officers of the garrifon, I returned to Boulguin to dine with Mrs. Kafloff, as I had promifed, when fhe gave me letters to her relations at Mofcpw. The next day our exprefs arrived, but he had not been able to overtake the Toun goufes, who had feparated, and were dif- perfed through the country. Here ended of courfe our hope of rein deer. Meanwhile it feemed neceffary that I fhould not defer my departure, as the roads became worfe every day. The longer I wait, faid I to myfelf, the lefs capable fhall I be of reach* ing the crofs of Yudoma before the rivers are entirely broken up, and the greater will be the rifk of my being flopped by the floods. Filled with thefe reflections, I re newed my entreaties that M. Kokh would allow me to proceed. It was in vain he al leged the many difagreeable circumftances I fhould IN KAMTSCHATKA. 211 1 fhould experience, the obftacles I fhould encounter, the dangers to which I fhould be expofed, from the feafon being too far advanced to travel with fledges ; I perfifted in my refolution. At laft he complied,, and .promifed to give the neeeffary orders, that nothing might prevent my fetting off the. next day, upon condition that I would re turn the moment I found myfelf in any imminent danger. I was glad to obtain my liberty, and confented to all that he pro- pofed. I fpent the remainder of the day in walking about the town in order to give a defcription of it, accompanied by a number of perfons who were able to affift my en quiries. Longer than it is wide, the town of Okotfk extends nearly in a direct line from eaft to weft; the fea is at the fouth within a hun dred yards of the houfes, and the interval between confifts of a flinty flrand ; at fhe p a north 212 , TRAVELS north the walls are wafhed by the Okhota; to the eaft is the mouth of this river, that is, at the extremity of a neck of land upon which the town is built, and that extends from thence to the weft. The town has nothing in it extraordinary; the ftructure; of the houfes has little variety, as they are only ifbas, a few of which, fituated to the eaft, are larger and more commodious than the reft, and are deftined for the ufe of the officers. M. Kokh lives at. the other end of the town; the gate of his court yard opens into the high ftreet, the regularity of which is broken by a fquare, in which are the houfe of the governor, and the fef- fions-houfe, both of them under the fame roof. Oppofite to them is the guard-houfe, and on the. left fide of the fquare the parifh , church. Thefe buildings have no very fplendid appearance. They were formerly enclofed with palifades, of which there are ftill fome veftiges. The remains of a gate to IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2I3 to the weft of the government houfe, fhews that this was what they called a fortrefs. Behind it is a ftreet , reaching almoft to the river, inhabited by tradefmen, whofe fhops, regularly arranged, line each fide of the ftreet. The port is fo very infignificant, that I could not have called it by this name, if I had not counted in it feven or eight veffels or galliots, fome of them belonging to the crown, and others to merchants, who carry on a fur trade with America. The port is to the eaft, almoft at the extremity: of the town, and near the river, by a kind of ap pendage to which it is formed. Upon the invitation of M. Hall, lieutenant in the navy, I accompanied him to the dock to fee two fmall fhips that were building for the voyage of difcovery intrufled to M.- Bil lings. 'The failors, foldiers, and carpen ters, had been fent out at a very confider- P. 3 able 2I4 TRAVELS able expence; and the armament, which goes on rapidly, muft coft the emprefs an immenfe fum. Faithful to his promife, M. Kokh had made all the preparations for my depart ure, and jo May in the evening, my fledges being loaded and harneffed, I took leave of him and the reft of the officers, who expreffed their defire of feeing me return. My company was augmented by two men, who were to ferve me as pilots on the river Yudoma. I travelled all night, not" withftanding the wretched ftate of the roads, which corresponded with the report that had been made. They were com-, pletely covered with water, and in fome places, the woods in particular, it reached to the bellies of our dogs. The wind con tinued fouth, the fky became more clouded, and in kamTschatka. 215 and every thing indicated that the thaw was not likely to ceafe. In the mean time, having croffed the river Okhota, I arrived without accident to the village of Medveje'-golova, or ^bear's- head, which is forty-five werfls from Okotfk, and is inhabited by Ruffians and Yakouts. I entered very early in the morning, but our dogs were fo weary that I was obliged to fpend the day and even the night there, being unable to procure a frefh fupply. I had hoped to be at Moundoukan the next day, which is twenty werfts from the preceding oftrog. Half way a part of our dogs refufed to draw, and we reluctantly ventured upon a rivet that feemed to of fer us a more commodious way. We had fcarcely advanced a few paces, when we heard a fudden crack under our fledges jj the next moment I felt myfelf gently fink, P 4 but 210* TRAVELS but a piece of ice ftill kept me up, It broke a fecond time, and my fkates became almoft invifible. Every effort to extricate myfelf would have been fruitlefs, as the leaft motion muft have carried me forward and plunged me into the water. Fortu? nately it was only four feet deep ; by their exertions, my people at laft drew me from my embaraffment, but they were nearly as much in want of affiftance themfelves. Deaf to the remonflrances of my conr ductors, I was defirous of proceeding, but we foon found it neceffary mutually to aid each other in gaining the bank. Mean while the fnow melted fo rapidly, that our dogs paddled in the water without advanc ing a flep, and fell one upon another ex- haufted with fatigue. Among my guides was a ferjeant, whom M. Kokh had given me for my better fe- curity. His reputation for courage and experience led me to confider him as my compafs , IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2I7 eompafs and guardian, and I kept my eye fixed upon him, obferving his motions and studying his countenance, which had hi therto been inflexibly compofed. In the midft of the murmurs of the reft of my company, he had not uttered a word nor altered a mufcle of his face, fo as to difco ver any emotion. I naturally conftrued this filence into a difavowal of the fears with which they attempted to fill me, and his tranquillity as an encouragement to go on. Never had my aftonifhment been greater than to fee him fuddenly flop, protefting that he would not proceed a ftep farther. I interrogated him, and urged him to explain himfelf. " I can no longer be filent/'' he anfwered, " influenced by a fentiment of " vanity, and a defire to difplay fuperior (t courage, I have hitherto withheld from " giving my opinion reflecting the hazard- (e ous meafure you are defirous of purfu- *( ing ; but the more I admire your intre- " pidity, Sl8" TRAVELS « pidity, the more I think myfelf bound to *' prevent the fatal confequences it may oc- « cafion, and to inform you of the many « dangers and obftacles that will every in- « ftant fpring up before you. The ma- " jority of the rivers are already difencunv *' bered of their ice, and could you fo far " fucceed as to pafs them, you would foon " be overtaken and furrounded by the " floods. What will then be your refource? " To feek an afylum on a mountain or in' a " foreft, if you fhould be fortunate enough " to meet with one. Like the inhabitants* " of thefe cantons in fuch circumftances, can *' you build yourfelf a cabin on the tops " of the trees, there to remain a fortnight " or three weeks till the waters fhall fub- " fide ? And are you fure that even in this •* Accuftomed to fuch accidents when they travel in this feafon of the year, they afcend the loftieft trees, where they fabricate with the branches a kind of hut called lab- azis ; but it often happens that the torrents do not abate! ^nd jn this cafe they equally perifh for want of food.' i « lofty IN KAMTSCHATKA. 210, " lofty retreat they will not reach you, or " force you down, together with the tree " that ferves as your fupport ? Are you fure " that your ftock of provifions will preferve " you, during this interval, from the appre- " henfions of famine ? If this fummary view " of the calamities that await you are not " fufficient to intimidate you, proceed ; you "are your own mafter; I have done my *' duty, and muft beg leave to quit you." This blunt remonftrance, and the terri ble prediction it contained, did not fail to make a ftrong impreffion on my mind, and I confidered that I could not do better than return immediately to Okotfk, from which we were only fifty-five werfts diftant. We reached Medveje-golova the fame evening, where I ftayed till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day. From thence to the river Okhota I felt no other incon- £20 TRAVELS inconvenience than that of travelling very flowly, but to compenfate for this fhort re- fpite, we experienced, when we came to crofs the river, new perils and new alarms. I eonfefs that I was equally terrified with my people, and dared neither meafure with my eye the width of the river, nor lofe fight for a moment of the trace of my fledge. The inf lability of the ice, which was moved up and down by the current, made me apprehenfive that it could not bear the weight of fo many paffengers, and I expected every inftant that an abyfs would open and fwallow up fome of us. At length having gained the bank, we counted over the company one after another, to convince ourfelves that no one was loft, and the pleafure of having efcaped this tremendous danger, gave wings to the re mainder of our journey to Okotfk, where we arrived the 14 at noon. So IN KAMTSCHATKA. 221 So fpeedy a return, occafioned fome pleafantries on the part of M. Kokh and the other officers ; each reminded me of his prediction ; but I was lefs confufed at the folly of my attempt, than mortified and diftrefled at its failure. I calculated with grief that my flay in this town would not perhaps be lefs than a month. Engroffed by a thoufand melancholy ideas, I was for fome time incapable of returning any anfwer to the demonftrations of joy and friendfhip which were heaped upon me. All the ob- ftacles I had met with from my firft landing at the port of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, occurred at once to my mind, and I con ceived that the invincible hand of fate op pofed itfelf to the fuccefs of my embafly. It was to no purpofe that I employed every means of being expeditious ; it was to no purpofe that I had pufhed my zeal to rafh- nefs, and on many occafions hazarded both my life and my difpatches. What a dif tance 222 TRAVELS tance was I ftill from Peterfburg ! In the mean time fix months are frequently known to be fufficient for this journey ; and a veffel leaving Bolcheretfk in July, will, if it meet with no accident, commonly arrive at Okotfk in three weeks or a month, and fometimes in twelve or fifteen days. From Okotfk to Yakoutfk, on horfeback, is only the bufmefs of a month, and in like manner from Yakoutfk to Irkoutfk, whether we fail down the Lena, or ride along its banks. At Irkoufk it will probably be neceffary to wait fix weeks till the froft fets in, and by means of fledges it is eafy travelling to Peterfburg in a fimilar portion of time ; the governor general has performed it in twenty eight days. It is impoffible to exprefs my impatience and-defpair,. when I contrafted the tediouf- nefs Of my jOurney with this expeditious mode of travelling. Eight months had already IN KAMTSCHATKA. 223 already elapfed, and I was no farther than Okotfk. It is true, I had no choice of feafon, and had been detained nearly three months at Bolcheretfk; obliged befide to make by land the tour of the peninfula of Kamt fchatka, I had had to contend with tempefts and a thoufand obftacles, each more grievouS than the preceding. Thefe delays had been equally involuntary and unavoidable; and though they may be pleaded in my jus tification, they do not remove the regret that is infeparable from the recollection of them. It is always diftrefling not to be able to execute the truft repofed in us, par ticularly when it is known, that at a dif ferent feafon, and under other circum ftances, the tafk would have been eafy ; but it is ftill more diftrefling, when attended with the anxiety to fee our native country and our deareft friends. Such were the reflections which agitated my mind "on my return to Okotfk ; and for many days they poifoned 224 TRAVELS poifoned the pleafures that every one was defirous of procuring me. At length, how ever, the attentions I experienced, and the amufements that poured in upon me on all fides, difpelled my chagrin, and there was no longer any merit in my refignation. Among the officers of the garrifon, I owed peculiar obligations to M. Loftfoff, infpector general. He gave inftant orders that the beft of their wretched horfes fhould be collected from the environs, and kept in readinefs to fet off at a moment's warning*. This * This was no very eafy taflc, if we confider the extreme weaknefs of thefe poor animals, who have no other fufte- nance, during the whole winter, than the branches of wil lows, or birch trees. With fuch nourifhment, what fer vice was to be expefted from them ! To fupport fo lon^ a faft, they furely fland in need of the refpite from labour which is commonly allowed them during this feafon of the year ; and even at the commencement of fpring, it is not prudent to make ufe of them till they have recovered their ftrength by better pafture. The fields are no fooner freed from the fnow, than they difperfe in eager purfuit of every little IN KAMTSCHATKA. 225 This precaution enabled me to feize the firft favourable opportunity, which, I flattered myfelf, would be fooner than they gave me reafon to expedt. Mrs. Kafloff, informed of my return i had the kindnefs to fend me every day an abund ance of milkj which fhe knew had been prefcribed by M. Allegretto as the only food that could relieve my breafl. I was the more obliged by this attention, as it was not poffible to procure milk at Okotfk at any pricek In a few days t heard news that gave me real pleafures An exprefs from Ingiga in formed us of M. KaflofPs arrival in that fet tlement ; but he had brought no letter from little blade of grafs, and devour fhe fhoots almoft before they fpring out of the ground ; rapid as the vegetation is in this country, it muft be fuppofed that 3 confiderable time is neceffary to recover their vigour. . Vol. 11, Q the 226 TRAVELS the governor ; and our joy foon gave place to anxiety. In what fituation had he ar rived? Why had he not written? His health perhaps would not permit him ? We all queftioned the meffenger in turns, and it was with difficulty he could convince us - of his fafety ; but the probability of his ac count, its invariable uniformity, and our own hopes, fo natural, when the perfon in queftion is dear to us, perfuaded us at laft that our fears were vain ; and in fpite of my melancholy experience of the difficulties of the route, and the unfavourablenefs of the feafon, blinded by my attachment, I frequently deceived myfelf, and leffened the obftacles, from my defire to fee him before my departure. , Okotfk being the feat of admimftration, and the entrep6t of the Ruffian commerce in this country, I found myfelf at the foun tain head, of knowledge refpecting thefe fubjetfs. IN KAMTSCHATKA. 227 fubjects. The fociety in which I lived, of fered me a thoufand opportunities of in- ftruction, which it was impoffible not to embrace. I firft applied myfelf to the ftudy of commerce* by enquiring into the caufes that gave rife to, that favoured and increafed the enterprifes of the Ruffian colonies in this quarter of the world. I was affifted in my enquiries by the moft enlightened perfons and the beft informed merchants ; and to afcertain the truth of their ac counts, I frequently contrafted them with each other, and > compared them with the aflertions of Coxe. I beg leave to tranfcribe, in this place, the notes which I minuted down for my own information. If they fhould contain any details fufficiently in- terefling to obtain pardon for the digreffion, I fhall have gained my end, and be amply rewarded for my labour. By the conqueft of the eaftern part of Q 2 Siberia, 228 f'1' TRAVELS Siberia, the Ruffians came into poffeffioh of the fruitful mines with which it abounds, and which were held in no eftimation by the inhabitants. To the extraction of iron, the conquerors added that of filver, gold, and other precious metals, the eternal ob jects of the avarice of mankind. The dif- covery of thefe new fources of wealth, en* flamed the courage of the adventurers ; the refult was, that they were defirous of ex tending their dominion ftill farther, and their eager regards reached beyond Irkoutft, which ought on this fide to have bounded their empire. Upon their firft Incurfions into the neigh bouring countries, they perceived, with re gret, that they had not the fame advantages to hope for. Nature appeared every where to have acted as a ftep-mother. The fteri- lity of the foil, which equalled the rigour of the climate, and the ftupid floth of thefa- ..jd vage IN KAMTSCHATKA. 229 vage inhabitants, who were chiefly hunters, herdfmen, or ichthyophagi, men who fubfift on fifh, offered no flattering refources to in- duftry, and was directly calculated to check all fpeculative ideas. But ingenious avarice knew how to acquire wealth even here. The view of the clothing of the favages, fuggefted inftantly the idea of robbing them of it, and the emigrants calculated thepof- fibility of fucceedirig by the lure of ex change, and the immenfe profit that would accrue from this branch of commerce, when it was once in their poffeffioni As they proceeded farther to the eaft of Afia, it was remarked that the furs were more beautiful; and this was fufficient to perfuade Ruffia that it was her intereft and glory to fubject every part of this vaft coun try to the obedience of her laws. Hitherto it had been the theatre of the piracies of a herd of Coffacs and Tartars, with whom g 3 fome 250 TRAVELS fome Ruffians, inftigated by the fame fpirit of plunder, had united themfelves. The fuccefs of their attempts being known, the allurement of riches attracted a greater number of emigrants, whofe audacity in- creafed in proportion to the refiftance they met with from the indigenes. Irt vain had nature placed thefe favages in barren de- ferts, in the midft of forefts, where their in dependence feemed to be out of the reach of attack ; in vain had fhe given them frofls, mountains, and leas of ice as barriers ; every thing is furmountable by ambition, a rage for conqueft, and a thirft for riches. The courage of the natives incited them every day to frefh combats, but it could not fave them from oppreffion ; the conquerors, if I may fo fpeak, fprung up again in propor tion as they perifhed in thefe bloody con- tefts. Frequent reinforcements, counte nanced by the government, repaired thefe loffes, and gave no time to the vanquifhed to IN KAMTSCHATKA. 25 L to recover from the furprife and fhame of having yielded to a handful of foreigners, whofe ufurpations became more enormous on every victory. By force of arms they were already matters of the whole territory as far as Okotfk, and northward had a d- vanced to the banks of the Anadir. To fecure fo many advantages, a fyftem ©f government and commerce was neceffary ; and immediately forts were constructed and towns built. Thefe eftablifhments, paltry as they were, opened an afylum to Ruffian, and other commercial fpeculators, who were acquainted with the route through thefe pro vinces. Here they could refort, when tired of their perilous expedition, and derive fuc cour againft the infults of the primitive in habitants, who were always difpofed to throw off the yoke and make reprifals. Independently of the vexations of every 9.4 kinb 232 TRAVELS kind that were exercifed againft theni, doubtlefs without the knowledge of the ( court to which they were become tribu tary, the natives frequently fuffered ftill farther from the treachery, cruelties, and all the exceffes pradtifed by ferocious con querors, when intoxicated withfuecefs, and goaded on by the abufe of riches and power, and the hope of impunity. In practifing thefe barbarities, individuals were embold ened by the example of their fuperiors, even of fuch as were appointed to flop the diforders, which became at laft fo enormous as to excite the indignation of the emprefs;. The produce of the cuftoms no longer flow ed with equal abundance into the treafury *, the tributes were either annihilated or di- minifhed by the perfons appointed to col lect them. Hence the frequent change of governors, whofe depravity or incapacity was juftly accufed, and merited at leaft an inftant recall. Hence the want of difcipljne among IN KAMTSCfcATKA. 2$$ among the troops, the confufion of all order among the colonifts, the daily accufations, the murders, and all the crimes that anarchy engenders, It happened exactly the fame at Kamt fchatka, when a chief of the Coffacs * reduc ed the inhabitants of that peninfula to fub- mit themfelves to the Ruffian yoke. How heavily did it at firft bear upon them ! how many troubles, how many depredations, how many revolts did it occafionl This inteftine and cruel war ceafed not till a bet ter mode of government was adopted. A new order of things then took place; the rights of the indigenes were more re- fpe<5ted, the taxes were lefs arbitrary, every -function was more faithfully discharged. Freed from the fhackles that loaded it, com merce began to profper, fptculations miuV * See Coxe, Chap. I. tiplied, 234 TRAVELS tiplied, the wealthy merchants of Ruflia fent their factors to Okotfk, and this town became the metropolis to other fettlements that grad ually fprung up . The eligiblenefs of its fituation in the center of the con quered provinces, gave it this preference, notwithftanding the fmallnefs of the port ; but the navigation is almoft entirely con fined to coafting, and the fhips that trade to Kamtfchatka are chiefly galliots. The cargos which they brought back, that is, the valuable fkins obtained from the inhabitants by way of exchange, or as tribute, were afterwards fent to the center of the empire, where they were fold under the eyes, as it were, of government, and chiefly on its account. The caprice of the purchafers, whether natives or fo reigners, was the only flandard of the market: the art of the fellers was direct ed IN KAMTSCHATKA. 235 ed to raife the price of their merchandife ; but from the fkill of the one, and the eagernefs of the other, no real benefit ac crued, except to the revenue, in confequence of the enormous duties levied upon every thing that is bought and fold. In the mean time Okotfk flourifhed, and the number of merchant fhips that arrived in and failed out of the port increafed every day: more confiderable connections gave rife to more extenfive views. Ruffian caravans, leaving Siberia behind them, paffed from defert to defert to the very borders of China. After fome warm contefts, and a variety of treaties infringed' and broken, it was at laft fettled that the two nations fhould trade top-ether on the frontiers. This privilege, which China had- not granted to any of the neighbouring powers, 256* TRAVELS powers, was calculated to give to Ruffian commerce * an unbounded extenfion. The merchants were no fooner informed of this new market for the fale of their furs, than they exerted themfelves to pro cure a greater abundance. Their veffels, entrufted to pilots chofen from government fhips, failed for the eaft of Kamtfchatka. Thefe navigators, more daring than fkilful, were fortunate beyond what they had rea fon to expect ; they not only dif covered fome unknown iflands, but returned from their voyage loaded with fo confiderable a cargo of moft beautiful fkins, that the court of Peterfburg confidered herfelf as bound to beftow a more particular attention to thefe difcoveries. * I might here give an account of the origin, progrefs, gnd nature of the commercial alliance between thefe two empires ; but as the caravans fent by the Ruffians to Kiatka, commonly affemble at I,rkoutfk, I fhall defer it till my a.r-, rival at that fettlement, where J fhall perhaps acquire flill more accurate information. Refolved IN KAMTSCHATKA* 237 Refolved to purfue them, from the hope of one day adding thefe iflands to the num* ber of her poffeffions, fhe entrufted the ex ecution of her defigns to the moft able ma rine officers, fuch as Behringj Tcllirikoff, Levacheff, and others equally celebrated. Some fitted out their veffels at Okotfk, and others failed from the port of Avatfcha, or Saint Peter and St, Paul, at the point of Kamtfchatka ; all were eager to traverfe the vaft archipelago that opened before them ; all proceeded from one difcovery in purfuit of another. Copper ifland, Behring ifland, the Aleutienne and Fox iflands, were found in turns, and new tributes enriched the royal treafury. Having wandered a long time over the feas, thefe happy Argonauts reach ed the coaft of America. A peninfula (that of Alaxa) prefented itfelf to their view ; having landed, they underftood that it formed a part of the main continent ; every thing indicated that it was the new quarter of 238 TRAVELS of the World, and full of joy, they failed back to their country. Scarcely had they given an account of the fuccefs of their voyage, proved by the ufeful obfervations they made, when the views of commerce were eagerly directed towards a region that offered inexhauftible refources. Ruffian factories were eflablifhed at Alaxa*, and theimmenfe profit accruing to * I fhall not enter into particulars refpe&ing the manner In which thefe fettlements were made. The Ruffians un fortunately difplayed neither more integrity nor greater hu manity than in their preceding conquefts ; and I wifh it was in my power to draw a perpetual veil over the fcenes of horror which they repeated on their arrival in thefe cli mates. But the many inftances of injuftice and difhonefty practiced by the chiefs, pilots, merchants, and failors, have given rife to fuch a variety of complaints and fuits, and fo many authors have written upon the fubje£t, that my filence could have no efFeft. It is well known that a number of" ihips employed in this trade have been accufed of taking by force, inftead of purchafing, the furs which they brought back, and fold at an immenfe profit. Not content with tear ing from the unfortunate indigines thefe fruits of their cou rage IN KAMTSCHATKA. 239 to. them has, in fpite of the diftance, fupr ported ever fince between the factors and their principals, the ftricteft correfpondence. The following is the mode of traffic adopted at Okotfk, whence a number of veffels fail every year for America. When a merchant has refolved to make this voyage, either in perfon or by means of one of his agents, he afks the confent rage and labour, they fometimes compelled them, under the immediate infpe&ion, and for the fole profit of the crew, to hunt otters, beavers, fea cows, foxes, and other animals j and frequently from, an excefs of diftruft or avarice, they hunted themfelves. Such conduct induces us to believe that they were guilty of crimes ftill more fhocking. It is not to be fuppofed that at fo great a diftance, the injunctions and menaces of the emprefs fhould in all cafes fo far ope rate as to prevent enormities. Experience has too clearly demonftrated, particularly in the extenfive empire of Ruf fia, that authority becomes weak, in proportion as it is, far ther removed from the cqnter. How many years of vigi lance and difciplihe are neceffary, before abufes can be fup^ preffed, and obedience effje&ed ! This has long been the ob^ jedt of the exifting adminiflration, and there is reafon to •preiume that its exertions have not been fruitlefs. of 240 Travels of the governor, which is feldoni refufed The cargo is divided into fhares; and every perfon is at liberty to purchafe. The fhares amount only to1 the fum neceffary to defray the expences of fitting out, and purchafing the articles of merchandife, which confift of fluffs, iron utenfils, glafs trinkets, handker chiefs, brandy, tobacco, and other things held in eftimation by favages. The officers and failors have no wages, but are allowed a part of the cargo, which is called pal The voyage lafts three, four, or fix years; and from a fpirit of avarice, the veffel is conducted to fuch places as are the leaft frequented, and even new difcoveries are attempted*. Upon * Such was the project of a merchant of fny acquaintance, who expe&ed to derive from it the moft confiderable advan tages. With the map of Cooke's voyage in his hand, his in-' tention was to enter the river that bears the name of thiS celebrated navigator, and to extend his courfe as far as the environs of the bay of Nootka. If he found himfelf able* to in kamtschatkaT 24,1 Upon their return, thefe fhips undergo a ftrict fearch. The owners pay duties -to government, regulated by the nature of their cargoes, and eftimated by the bills of lading. An appraifement is then made of the Temainder, whiqh is divided into equal portions : each owner receives either in kind or in money the amount of his capital, (air- lowing for freightage, and lofs) and his fhare ¦ in the profits, if any have accrued. It will readily be perceived that it is chance alone in a manner that decides upon the quan tum of dividend or deficit. In fine, part of the goods are fold at Okotfk, and part tranfported to Yakoutfk, from thence to Irkoutlk, and laft of all to Kiakhta, where the Chinefe are the eftablifhed purchafers., to execute his plan, it is poflible that he would not be wholly deceived in his hopes, and his countrymen may, perhaps, be hereafter indebted to his information and cou rage for the knowledge of new fourceS of wealth. vol. 11. R The 2^2 TRAVELS The mode Of government is equally en titled to attention. During my abode in the peninfula, the tribunals of which, as I have already obferved, hold from thofe of Okotfk* I obtained the fulleft information on this fubject*. I had only therefore to confider more attentively the difcipline of the gar- rifon, and the police of the town, which equally aftonifhed me. I expected to fee, as it formerly was, a licentious foldiery ; that is, a band of feroci ous Coflacs, robbers by nature, and igno rant of every law but their caprice or in- tereft. Not a day paffed without fome of them deferting with arms and baggage, and frequently the magazines were pillaged by this audacious troop. It was to no purpofe that the reprefentatives of the fovereign practiced feverity to put a flop to thefe de- * See Vol. 1. p. r4o. fertions in kamtschatka; 243 fertions and plunderings ; it was to no pur* pofe that all the criminals, whom it was poflible to apprehend, were fubjected to the battpgues, or gantlet, and other punifhments practiced in the Ruffian army. Thefe def- peradoes were fo hardened to ftripes, or fo incorrigible, that they incurred the next day new penalties ; nor could the fevereft punifhment reflrain them, or deter others. At prefent however the garrifon is fubjected to a ftill feverer difcipline, and inftances of difobedience are more rare. Great praife is due to the reformers, whofe perfeverance and ability have operated fuch good effects. Equal attention has been paid to the de partment of the police, which it was no eafy tafk fo eftablifh in a town that has a confiderable number of exiles among its inhabitants. The majority bear the inde lible marks with which the hand of juftice has branded their guilty heads, and the reft, R 2 con- 24,4 TRAVELS condemned to the gallies, meditate incef- fantly during their labours in the port, how to break their chains with impunity. Some times efcapes are effected, and woe to thofe places where thefe culprits betake them felves! But the continual vigilance of the governor does not long permit them to en joy this fatal liberty ; they are foon appre hended and punifhed, and by being loaded / with heavier chains, all fears for the public fafety are removed. The conduct of M. Kokh on this occafion ftruck me as equally prudent and determined ; to a fpirit of mo deration, which forms the effence of his character, the utmoft inflexibility is united. The Lamouts, the Toungoufes, and the Yakouts, fail not alfo to find employment for adminiflration, either by the complaints which they occafion, or by their frequent infurrections, particularly at the time of levying taxes. This department is intrufted to in kamtschatka. 245 to the care of M. Loftfoff, infpector ge neral, who, by his activity and pru dence, has the art of appeafing the tu mults, accommodating the difputes, and executing without violence the decrees1 of his fovereign. I had an opportunity of judging how perfectly fatisfied all parties were with his conduct. , Such was the profperous .fituation in which I found this branch of the general government. May the teftimony which I am defirous of giving in its favour, be cori- trafted with the firft accounts, and guard the reader againft the difadvantageous pre judices, which a view of the former defec-* tive government is calculated to infpire. The new governors are at .leaft intitled to this juftice, that if abufes ftill prevail, they exert themfelves without intermiffion to put a flop to them, in proportion as fuch abufes be* come known. R 3 A report 246 TRAVELS . A report lately prevailed, I know not from what authority, that there was an intention of removing the inhabitants of Okotfk, either to Oudfkoi, or fome neigh bouring fettlement. If the court have really fuch a project in view, it muft. have felt, I fhould fuppofe, the neceffity of hav ing a more confiderable town in this quar ter, and that convenience, extent, and fe- curity, will determine its choice of a new port. I have promifed the reader fome account of the commiffion of M. Billings. I have al-' ready obferved, that he has two fhips build* ing in the dock of Okotfk, but I fhould be confiderably at a lofs to fay what is their deftination. It is not poflible to penetrate the myflery; and all I know is, that M. Billings, from his reputation, and the abi lities he difplayed in one of the voyages of captain Cook, who was his countryman, has IN KAMTSCHATKA. x 247 has been invited into Ruflia, and, with the rank of captain, appointed to command a fecret expedition, the object of which is fup- pofed to be that of difcovery. The powers accorded to him feem to be boundlefs ; and materials, workmen, failors, every requifite, in fhort, have been fupplied by the court. For the fake of difpatch, M. Billings had divided his men, and fent a part of them to Okotfk under the fuperintendance of M. Hall, his lieutenant, to conftruct two vef fels, while he himfelf made, with the remain der, for the Frozen Ocean, in flout floops and other fhips haftily built in the river Kolume'. The end of this firft expedition is as yet a fecret, and various conjectures are formed refpedting it. The moft intelligent perfons agreed in fuppofing that he was to make the circuit of this part of Afia, to double cape R 4, Svetoi, 248 TRAVELS Svetoi', and endeavour to return to Okotfk by the fea of Kamtfchatka. If fuclf were his project, it is probable that he met with fome infurmountable obftacles in its execu- • tion, as he returned, after three months na vigation, to the river KolumeV and failed from thence for Yakoutfk. The armament under the direction of M. Hall had been fufpended for- a confiderable .partof the winter, but was revived and car ried on with vigour during my abode at Okotfk. The hull of one veffel was already finifhed, and the keel of another laid in the dock. The ropemakers, blackfmiths, car penters, failmakers, caulkers*, had feparate workfhops. The continual prefence of the * All of whom, as well as the different naval officers, are •brought hither from Ruflia. To complete however their complement of failors, M . ffall was obliged to raife re cruits in the country; and the orders he brought were fo 1 precife, that the governor fupplied him both with men and materials at his firft requifition. fuper- IN KAMTSCHATKA. 249 fuperintending officers animated the zeal of the workmen. Notwithftanding this dili gence on all fides, to which I was a witnefs, I doubt whether thefe fhips will be fit for fea thefe two years. The river Okhota had always been dis encumbered of its ice before 20 May ; to the great aftonifhment of the inhabitants it did not begin to float this year till the 26 in the afternoon. It was a'fp'ectacle for the town, and I was invited as to a party of pleafure ; but from the idea that it muft be fimilar to what I had feen at Peterfburg, I difcovered little inclination or curiofity. Importuned however upon the- fubject, I went to the river. The crowd was already affembled, and I was immediately affailed on every fide by the unanimous vociferations of thofe abput me, who exclaimed in full chorus at fight of the enormous fheets of ice which .were jiifte4 up by the rapidity of the cur rent. 25O TRAVELS rent. The noife of fome feemed to drown that of others, and the multitude flocked together without end. The next moment loud groans ftruck my ears. I endeavoured to difcover whence thefe cries proceeded, and L faw a number of men and women running like fo many perfons in defpair along the bank. I approached with tre pidation, perfuaded that fome unfortunate child was in danger of being drowned ; but I foon difcovered my error. A troop of about a dozen dogs was the caufe of this lamentation. Their mailers, either from avarice or compaffion, bewailed in concert the fate of thefe poor animals, whofe lofs feemed inevitable. Seated tran quilly on the ice that fupported them, they looked with an air of aftonifhment at the crowd collected upon the bank, whofe clamours and figns could not move them from their pofture. Two only had the IN KAMTSCHATKA. ©51 the inftinct to attempt to fave themfelves, and gained with difficulty the oppofite fide ; the reft were out of fight in a few minutes, and, conveyed into the main ocean, muft there infallibly have perifhed. Thefe dogs were the only victims of the breaking up of the ice ; but its effects have been fometimes fo terrible, as to have occa fioned the removal of all the hoiifes*near the river. The fcattered ruins bear witnefs that many of them have been overturned by this fatal event, and I was informed, that in the courfe of fome years, nearly a fourth part of the town had been deftroyed by it. The inhabitants wait with impatience for * We have feen in the defcription of Okotfk, that thefe buildings conftituted the part of the town appropriated to trade. Alarmed at this incident, they immediately unfur- nifhed their fhops, determined to remove into the government fquare, of confequence they undertook to re-build the bar racks, and confiderably augmented the number of them. the S£S TRAVELS the period when the river fhall regain its natural ftate; it is time that the fifhing feafon fhould commence, and relieve them from the famine that begins to prevail. The ftock of fifh procured in the preceding fum mer had been fcanty,- and was nearly ex- haufted. The fupply of meal was alfo con fiderably diminifhed, and what remained was fo dear that the common people were unable to purchafe. The humanity of M. Kokh fignalifed itfelf on this occafion. There was a referve of rye flour in the ftores belonging to government, and he diftributed it among the indigent clafs of the inhabitants. This afforded them fome relief, but it was not of long duration. M. Kokh, who received a number of perfons at his table, was reduced to the neceffitv of having, recourfe to a few eatables which he had laid by in the preceding year. At laft we had nothing to eat but beef dried in the fun. To get a fupply of frefh provi fions, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2£3 (ions, the major fent out a party to hunt deer and argali, but they had only once the good fortune to be fuccefsful. The thaw being ended/ he ordered the feine to be immediately ufed. I was pre fent with a large party, and the fpectacle was much fuperior, in my opinion, to that to which I had before been invited. It is not eafy to exprefs the pleafure, the tranf- port of the multitude of fpectators upon the firft eaft of the net. A prodigious quantity of fmall fifh, like fmelts and her rings, were caught, and the joy and clamour redoubled at the fight. The moft famifhed were firft ferved, and the whole produce of this fortunate beginning given up to them. I could not reftrain my tears on perceiving the ravenoufnefs of thefe poor creatures; whole families contended for the fifh, which were devoured raw before my eyes. To 354 TRAVELS To thefe fifhing enterprifes, which became more fuccefsful every day from falmon*, and other large fifh coming up the river, fucceeded the diverfion of hunting water fowl-f, which were fo abundant as to cover the furface of the water : this was a new means of fubfiftance for the inhabi tants. In the mean time the feafon advanced, and in fpite of the frequent fogs, we had now and then fome fine days. They were the more acceptable, as the fnow had fallen during the night of the 29 two inches deep, and the cold was fo fevere as to be one de gree below zero. The waters gradually abated, but there was no appearance of ve- * The mode of preparing falmon is the fame as at Kamtfchatka. i I have already given an account of this fport, which takes place in the moulting feafon, and obferved that a flick is the only weapon ufed on the occafion. getation. IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2£5 getation. Some blades of rotten grafs, the melancholy fruit of the laft efforts of Nature at the clofe of autumn, was the only nou- rifhment that the earth afforded to the horfes, till the return of the genial influ ence of fpring. I was already anxious to be gone, andV though I could not deceive myfelf reflect ing the miferable ftate of thefe animals, I intreated M. Kokh to orderfuch as had been appointed for my ufe to be collected, re- folving to leave Okotfk 6 June at lateft. His orders were punctually executed ; and thanks to his cares, to the kindnefs of Mrs. Kafloff, and the liberality of a number of friends, whom I left in this fettlement, I found myfelf all at once amply provided with bread and bifcuit. Had it not been for the recollection of the famine, I fhould have felt myfelf flattered by thefe prefents ; but the. idea that I was to fupport myfelf with 2£<5 TRAVELS with the facriflces of friendfliip, hurt my feelings, and it was not without confider able pain that I was obliged to keep what no refufals could induce them to take back. The evening preceding my departure* was devoted to taking leave. I had the pleafure to learn that M. Loftfoff intended to accompany me to Moundoukann, and that lieutenant Hall, called to that place by fome affairs relative to the armament under his care, was to go with us. I had little expected a third companion, doubly dear to me, but M. Allegretti informed me, that he had prepared every thing to con duct me as far as the crofs of Yudoma. How great were my furprife and gratitude, when I underftood that perfonal attach ment was the fole motive of his journey ! Of my two foldiers, Golikoff only attended me ; Nedarezoff ftaid at Okotfk, but I took his father to ferve me as pilot on the river Yudoma. IN KAMTSCHATKA. 257 Yudoma. A number of workmen, as I had agreed with the major, were to fet out immediately after me, to repair the boats, which would be found unfit for fervice, that I might not be expofed to new dangers or new delays. All my preparations being completed, I ' tore myfelf from the arms of M. Kokh. A number of inhabitants did me the honour to attend me to the gates of the town, where our horfes waited for us, and where, after mutual reiterations of good wifhes, we feparated : my hofts carried with them, I truft, the conviction, that they had not entertained a man infenfible to obligation. At fight of the horfe I was to mount, I drew back with horror and compaffion. I had never feen fo wretched an animal. His fides were lank and hollow, his buttocks narrow and peaked, fo that you might ;- vol. 11. S count 2£& TRAVELS count every bone they contained, his neck tmfupported, his head between his legs, his haunches nervelefs and weak. Such is the exact defcription of my fteed. You may judge of the figure of the other horfes, among which mine paffed for one of the leaft defpicable. The faddle had a confiderable refemblance to our own. Thofe which were provided for our baggage were fmaller, made of wood, and perforated with holes ; upon the top there were two fticks faftened crofs-wife on which the load*- was fufpended, taking care however to make the weight equal on both fides, as the fmalleft difproportion would infallibly * They confifted of leathern bags and' portmanteaux ; with this advantage, that they never gall the fides of the horfes. The ufual weight is five pouds, or two' hundred pounds, and it never exceeds fix pouds ;, that is, two hunv dred and forty; Thefe loads they call viouki, and the horfes that carry them vioufchni-lofchadei. If the baggage" to be carried be. lighter or lefs cumhrous, they place iti upon the back of the animal, and faften it with a cord of hair that pafles under his belly a. have IN KAMTSCHATKA., Qgg ' have prevented the beafts from maintain-/ ing their equilibrium. It was in this pitiful plight that our ca ravan fat out. To confole ourfelves for the flow pace we travelled, each was merry at the expence of his fteed. Twelve werfts from Okotfk, a tolerably large fait work was pointed out to me on the fea coaft ; the men employed, in it were all malefac tors or convicts. Beyond this houfe we left the fea at our left, and travelled for fome time on the banks of the Okhota. If the breaking up of this river occafion fuch alarm to the inhabitants of the town, its overflowings are not lefs fatal to the en virons. Rifing above the banks, the water not only floods the adjacent country, but becomes a torrent, that fwells as it extends itfelf. It has been faid to rife two feet above the tops of the higheft trees, From S a this 20O TRAVELS this account one may fuppofe its ravages to be dreadful, and certain it is that I faw in the forefts gulfs of an aftonifhing depth, faid to be the work of thefe floods. Within a fhort diftance from Medveje- golova, my horfe fell under me, and it was impoffible to make him get up again ; I had fortunately time to quit the faddle, and received therefore no injury. We left the beaft on the fpot *, where it doubtlefs ex pired * The Yakouts feemed not to be much concerned at the lofs of thefe animals, and have no idea of affording them any affiftance. When they refufe to go on^ or fall down from weaknefs or fatigue, they are abandoned to their deplorable fate, and their carcaffes are left to be de voured by bears, who never relinquifh their prey while any thing remains but the tones. (Every ten fteps we fee fkeletons of thefe horfes, and from Okotfk to the crofs of Yudoma, I imagine.that I paffed more than two thou fand. My conductors informed me that the majority had perifhed the preceding year, in conveying from Okotfk to Yakoutfk the different materials required for M. Billings's expedition, in confequence of having been furprifed by the floods, winch had been fo fudden that the guides faved themfelves in kamtschatka. 26 i pired a few hours after. We had ftill eleven horfes remaining; I was therefore remounted in an inftant, and reached the village without meeting with any other accident. We proceeded the next day, at nine o'clock in the morning, and forded the river Okhota, the courfe of which we were no longer to purfue. I perceived here and there fome Yakout yourts at a confiderable diftance from each other : feldom are any number of them feen together. The difpofition of thefe families to live in this ifokted manner, refults from a motive of intereft that is of the firft import- themfelves with difficulty.. A part of their loads were ftill under a kind of labazis, of which I. have already fpoken, where travellers place their effefts till the waters fubfide. It was added, that the Yakouts lofe in this manner every year four or five thoufand horfes, in tranfporting the different objects of the commerce which they undertake. S3 ance. 262 TRAVELS ance. Horfes being their chief fource of wealth, if the proprietors (fome of whom poffefs more than a thoufand) built their habitations nearer to each other, how would they be able to procure nourifhment for their numerous ftuds ? The neighbour ing paftures muft foon be exhaufted, and it would be neceffary to fend multitudes of them to a confiderable diftance ; but how many inconveniences would refult in con fequence of the negligence or difhonefly of the keepers. Arrived at Moundoukann, our horfes were fo fatigued that we paffed the night there and all the next day, which was 8 June. I have already obferved that this village is twenty werfts from Medjev£-go- lova ; it gives its name to a river on which it is fituated. At break of day I feparated from M. Hall and IN KAMTSCHATKA. 263 and M. Loftfoff, who were to ftay in this place. I firft climbed a high mountain called Ourak, the fummit of which was ftill covered with fnow ; it reached to the bel lies of our horfes, who fuffered extremely in this paffage. \ A river of the fame name runs at the foot of the mountain. It is wide, deep, and rapid ; and on its bank is a yourt inhabited by watermen. They were at this time all abfent, probably a hunting, as their open houfe indicated that they had not long been departed. Tired of calling and waiting for them, we launched the leaft defective of the boats that were faftened on the bank, and after fearching about we found fome oars. We unloaded and unfaddled the horfes, and placed the baggage in the boat, which in turn conveyed us to the other fide. Our S 4 fteeds s6*4! travels' fteeds ftill remained, and I trembled left they fhould not be able to fwim acrofs. The fecurity of my Yakouts in this refpect appeared to me unaccountable ; by dint of whipping them, they forced them into the water ; the boat went before to guide them, and one of our conductors was left on the bank to pelt them with ftones and frighten them with his cries, fo as to prevent their turning back. In about half an hour they all arrived fafe, when they were immedi ately faddled and reloaded *, and we pur* fued our journey. The weaknefs of our horfes obliged us to halt twenty-five werfts from Moundou- kann, in a place that offered us moft pafture, and that feemed to have few traces of bears. * The Yakouts are fo habituated to this exercife, that they might defy the moft expeditious groom. They tie the horfes three and three to each bthers tails, and a fingle rope ferves to lead them all. From IN KAMT£CHATKA. 2% From a faft of fix months, it is eafily con ceived how much the voracity of thefe ani mals is to be dreaded. Deferting their dens, they prowl about the country, and from the want of fifh, with which the rivers do not yet abound, they ravenoufly attack every animal they meet, and particularly horfes. We were obliged to take precau tions even for our own fafety. From the following defcription, the reader will be able to form an idea of the nature of our halts. Having fixed upon the fpot, the horfes were eafed of their burthens and permitted to graze at liberty. Fires were then kin dled at equal diftances round our little camp, and at the entrance of my tent I re peatedly difcharged my mufquet, being af fured that the report and fmell of the pow der, would terrify and drive away the bears. At break of day our horfes are affembled ; if 2(56 TRAVELS. if any of them were difperfed they came at the cry of my Yakouts, who poffefs the fame talent in this refpect as the Koriacs with their rein deer. ' Surprifed at feeing tufts of horfe hair fufpened to the branches of trees, I afked the caufe of it, and was informed that they were offerings made by the people of the country to the gods of the woods and high ways. My guides had their favourite places, where they pioufly depofed fimilar gifts. This fuperftition is at leaft produc tive of one good effect, as the offerings may ferve to point out the road to tra vellers. In the courfe of the preceding day we had croffed various branches of the river Ourak, the ramifications of which are in finite, but none of them occafioned us any delay. The 11, about five o'clock in the afternoonj IN KAMTSCHATKA. 267 afternoon, we met this river again: its width was not very confiderable, and, but for the rain * that had fallen and fwelled the current, we fhould have felt no hefita- tion in fording it as we had done in the preceding inftances. My principal guide reprefented it as dangerous ; but having been forewarned that if I liftened to their advice they would frequently make me halt even at noon day, to repofe themfelves ra- - ther than from a wifh to refrefh their horfes, I refolved at leaft to have the depth found ed. The experiment however convinced . me that my guide was in the right. The perfon whom I ordered to go into the river was quickly obliged to return, as his horfe loft footing a few fteps from the bank. It was neceffary to pitch our camp in the * I was a witnefs on this day of a circumftance that deferyes to be related. My Yakouts fkilfully peeled off large pieces of bark from the pine tree, of which they formed a fort of tent or parapluie, under which they took up their abode during the night. neighbour- 268 TRAVELS neighbourhood, where our horfes fortunate ly found fomething to eat. That I might lofe lefs time, I reftricted myfelf to one regular meal in the even ing, fatisfied with the refrefhment of rye bifcuit in the courfe of the day ; but I had, defired my people to inform me whenever they perceived any game*, and we lived for fome time on the fruits of my fuccefs. Neceffity is an able mafler, and cuftom fup plied the want of fkill. If I happened to kill any fmall animals, they fell to the lot of my Yakouts, except the fkins, which they returned to me. Go likoff had given me a difguft to this food, which I conceived from his report to be * Befide various forts of aquatic birds, we frequently met with the heath-cock and the white partridge ; we alfo appropriated their eggs to our ufe, wherever we could find them. very IN KAMTSCHATKA. 26*9 very naufeous. Tempted however one day by the whitenefs of the flefli, when boiled, I eat part of one of thefe little animals : they tafte of the fir, but are lefs difagree able than I had been led to believe. In a time of fcarcity, I fhould have confidered them as very acceptable, and can forgive the Yakouts their high relifh of them. Their principal food, which they call bourdouk, gave me infinitely more repug nance. It is a kind of thick frumenty, made of rye meal and water, into which, after it is taken off the fire, they popr fifh oil : the quantity they eat of it aftonifhed and fhocked me. I was told that in gene ral they were not very great eaters ; it was however added, that they now and then, as a treat, roaft a horfe, which is demolifhed in a few hours by a very fmall number of guefts, and the inteftines of the animal are by no means the leaft precious morfel. Who 270 TRAVELS Who would fuppofe that men of fuch vo racious appetites, practice at other times a frugality that feems fcarcely fufficient to fupport life, and frequently continue a number of days together without food ? I was awaked at an early hour by my guides, who came to inform me that the river had confiderably abated during the night. While they were loading our bag gage a number of horfemen arrived, who had in like manner been detained on the oppofite fide; they croffed without any rifk, and infpired us with the fulleft confi dence. # They were bankrupt merchants going to try their fortune, as factors of a man of property, whofe fpeculation had obtained the concurrence of the court, and all the fuccours that he wanted. Its object wa» the fur trade, particularly that of fables, caught IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2? I caught by the Koriacs and Tchouktchis. Thefe factors were to feparate at the mouth of the Pengina, and advance confiderably into the country. They were allowed four or five years for their undertaking, and their intention was not only to collect furs from every quarter in the way of purchafe, but to hunt themfelves the animals that furnifhed them. Apprehenfive ©f no other obftacles but what might be occafioned by the natives, they were provided with am munition and arms to repel their kifults. In quitting us they turned an eye of pity on our poor beafts, while we on trje~ contrary obferved with envy the ftrength and good condition of theirs. Coming from the environs of Yakoutfk, where there is no fcarcity of winter provifions, thefe horfes were a perfect contrail with ours,. which appeared ftill more wretched from; the companion. Whera 272 TRAVELS When we had paffed the river, I afked my guides if I might hope that it was the laft we fliould crofs. They replied in the negative, informing me that we fliould meet with three others" in the courfe of the day. From their defcription I judged that they muft be new branches of the Ourak. Be this as it may, my fears increafed every time, and the idea that the horfe might fall with my box, made me fhudder. Upon coming out of a thick Wood, I found myfelf on the bank of a real torrent, the ftream was fo rapid, and the breadth of the river fcarcely lefs than two hundred yards ; at a little diftance it poured itfelf into the Ourak. In the mean time we conceived it to be fordable, and with this confidence I fpurred my horfe to make him defcend. In the middle of the river I felt hisjlegs tremble. I encouraged him; he proceeded, and the water now reached no farther IN &AMTSCHATKA. ' ©73 farther than my knee. Emboldened by this circumftance, I placed myfelf firm in my feat, having been thrown fomething off my center by a fort of dizzinefs which the continual view of the current perpetually excited. Already I approached the oppo- fite bank, the climbing of which required new efforts. To afcend it, it was neceffary to. furmount a ridge of ice which ftill re mained attached to it. The declivity was fleep, but it would have been in vain to have fought for a better landing-place. My refolution was foon taken, and I directed the - animal towards the perilous afcent ; already he had gained a pofition for his fore feet, and he refted them as well as he could to bring forward his hind ones. He loft his footing, and fell backward into the water ; the horfe and the rider floated in different parts of the ftream. The water was deep, and the cumberoufnefs of my drefs reftraine4 my efforts. Both the ani- , vol. 11. T mal 274 TRAVELS mal and myfelf were carried along by the violence of the current, and I infenfibly grew weaker. I was approaching the place where the two rivers joined, when on a fud den I heard a voice faying, '* Catch at the " bridle of your horfe, or it is over with " you !" The found, the idea of the danger re-animated me ; I ftruck forward with all my flrength, ftretched out my hand, and feized the rein. Providence was undoubt edly watchful for my prefervation, for at the fame moment my horfe took footing and breath ; an inftant later, and we had been loft. I Aided my hand to the upper end of the bridle, and then threw my arms ftrongly round the neck of the animal. Thus I remained fufpended as it were be tween life and death, not daring to' move a finger, and calling aloud for fuccour. My faithful Golikoff had in vain endeavoured to follow me in my misfortune ; the vigour or his horfe did not orre^pord to the zeal of the IN KAMTSCHATKA. 275 the rider ; anxious and impatient, it was he that had given me the falutary and terrible advice of grafping at my horfe ; and no) fooner did he perceive its happy effects, than he haftened on his part to climb the fhore. To land, to run towards me, to lay hold of my horfe and drag him out of the water, and to reftore me to life, was all the affair of five minutes. - My firft care, having leaped on the neck of my deliverer, was to tear off the port folio which was faftened to my girdle. In fpite of the oil cafe in which it was en veloped the water had penetrated into it, and I trembled for the fate of two im portant packets which count de la Peroufe had particularly recommended to my care. I had the pleafure to find that they were but little injured. - 4 My box I had left on the other fide ; my T 2 uneafi- 276! TRAVELS uneafinefs reflecting it was foon difpelleij by the arrival of M. Allegretti and my other companions, who placed it in my hands. They were ftill pale and difmayed at the accident I had encountered, and con fidered it as a miracle that I had been able to fave myfelf. I had feen death too near me, not to be of the fame opinion. We again mounted our horfes, but I confefs that my blood froze in my veins* when we approached a river ; I took care in future to fend one of my guides before, gnd was not free from apprehenfion till he made me a fignal from the oppofite bank. During this day, as well as in every pre ceding one fince our departure from Okotfk, we conftantly travelled through forefts, or along the banks of rivers. In the woods the IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2^7 the trees * that line the roads are fmali, but fo bufhy and fo befet with briars, that my Yakouts were frequently obliged to clear the way with their hatchets f, which ftill flackened our pace, though we never went at a greater rate than a walk. I arrived in tolerable time at Oratfkoi- plodbifche. This was the firft habitation I had feen fince the yourt belonging to the watermen, and I fpent there the reft of the day. The river Ourak flows at the foot of this hamlet ; the number of inhabitants amounts only, to five foldiers, each of whom has an ifba. They are appointed to guard a magazine for the reception of effects be- * They were chiefly willows and alders ; but deeper in the forefts we perceived fome firs and birch trees of a good height. + They ufe for this purpofe a long and wide blade faf tened at the end of a flick three feet long. This inftnj- ment ferves them both as lance and axe. T 3 longing 278 ; TRAVELS hinging to the crown, fent from Okotfk or Yakoutfk. Upon occafion they convey, the merchandize as far as the mouth of the Ourak ; but this river is fo obftructed, fome times with flats and fometimes with cata racts, and the embarkations at the fame time are fo weak, that the navigation is equally painful and dangerous. The next morning, which was the 13, I croffed this river in a boat ; it takes its rife at no great diftance, from an immenfe lake where we halted in the evening. The lake is fituated upon an eminence, is about feven werfls in circumference, and is faid to abound with fifh. . I cannot pafs over in filence a fcene that took place this day among my Yakouts, reflecting a horfe that it was neceffary to leave in the road. They had flopped, and were holding a confultation round the animal. IN KAMTSCHATKA. 279 animal. Impatient at feeing no end to their difcuflion, I was about to witnefs my dif- content, when they foreftalled me, intreat ing my indulgence for the delay they oc cafioned me. Accountable for the horfes committed to their care, it is cuftomary, when they lofe any of them either by acci dent or from excefs of fatigue, to cut off the tail and the ears, which they are obliged to produce to the proprietor to exculpate them felves, or pay the value of the animals. The difpute at prefent was, whether they fhould put an end to the poor dying beaft. This required fome time, which I was not in a humour to facrifice to them, and I replied therefore fomewhat angrily, that there was a more fimple, more expeditious, and lefs cruel way of effecting this end. I promifed them a certificate, that fhould atteft the lofs and fupply the place of the ufual proofs, by taking the blame {of their failure in this refpect upon myfelf. They acquiefced withr - - T 4 out 28o TRAVELS out hefitation in my propofal, and this de ference was no fmall proof, I Was told, of their refpect. From the hope of travelling quicker, I committed our baggage to the care of old Nedarezoff, and went on before with M. Allegretti, Golikoff, and a Yakout. A pond prefented itfelf, the depth of which might be about a foot. I rode into it with M. Al legretti, and Golikoff followed holding my box on his faddle. He had fcarcely advanced ten fleps when the horfe ftumbled and threw him off fideways ; but more intent upon his depofit than his own prefervation, he fell upon the box, having taken care not to re linquifli his hold. I immediately alighted to affift him ; but having fallen in the mire, he had fuftained no injury. His greateft trouble proceeded from my box being wet, but I confoled him by fhewing him that the water had not touched the infide. Our IN KAMTSCHATKA. 28 1 Our horfes were fo fatigued, that we were obliged to alight and lead them by the bridle, while the Yakout whipped them feverely behind. We travelled in this manner the whole day, refting every half hour, where the new grafs * began to ap pear, in order to recover in fome meafure our poor beafts. About three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the crofs of Yudoma -j*. On an eminence, fecure from the overflowings of * I have already mentioned the quicknefs of the vegeta tion. Its progrefs was every day perceptible ; the trees, which had been fo long bare, gradually recovered their flrefs^ and the country foon appeared like a vaft meadow enamelled with rural flowers. What a fpedlacle for a man whofe eye had for the fpace of fix months feen no thing but frozen rivers, and mountains and plains covered with fnow ! It feemed to revive with nature, and to fpring out of its ruins. + There is actually a crofs efefled on the bank of the fiver, this 2S2 TRAVELS this river, which extends its impetuous waves to a great diftance, are a number of maga zines guarded by four foldiers, and which ferve them as an afylum when their com mon habitations by the fide of the Yudoma are flooded : thefe foldiers practice alfo the bufinefs of watermen, and are at the fervice of travellers. Upon feeing my paffport they fub- mitted themfelves entirely to my difpofal. Unfortunately all their boats were in a con dition the moft wretched that can be ima gined, and we had neither materials nor workmen to refit them. Thofe who had been fent from Okotfk were not likely to arrive foon, and I was impatient to em bark* in order to fail down the rivers Yu doma, Maya, and Aldann. Among thefe * The abatement of the water was every day percep tible to the eye, andr a longer delay would have expofed me to all the dangers of fhoals, and the moft formidable cataracts. foldiers, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 283 foldiers, one only had ever made this voy- ' age, and nine years having fince elapfed, he had totally forgotten the courfe. I was ad vifed not to try him, unlefs all the others refufed. My only refource therefore was Neda- rezoff, who had attended me in order to ferve as pilot; but what a pilot! He had once, twelve years ago, been upon this river, and all he remembered was, that he was three years in going from Yakoutfk to Okotfk. He conducted at that time a con fiderable convoy of timber, anchors, cord age, and other materials for fitting out an armament. Of the four boats that were on the flrand, I chofe the beft and the narroweft, which was twelve feet long by fix wide*. On * Thefe boats are flat, and terminate in points at the two extremities. L examin- £84 TRAVELS examining it, I found that it muft be caulk ed, tarred^ and have an additional plank at the' head to enable it to refift the force of the waves. With two boards, and fome nails from an old boat, one of the foldiers, who underftood a little the trade of a car penter, effected the latter part of the bufi- nefs, but we wanted every material for the other repairs. We ranfacked the maga zines to no purpofe, and during the whole night I ceafed not to puzzle my brain in order to invent fome expedient. At break of day, as I was going to vifit the workmen, I trod on an old and large cord that lay on the bank. Elate with im> good fortune, I carried it to my foldiers; inftantly it was cut to pieces, and unravell ed ; we had thus a fupply of tow, and the three moft important leaks were flopped. The difficulty was to faften and keep in the tow ; my workmen propofed to me to cover the IN KAMTSCHAtKA. 28^ the cfiinks with laths, but we had no nails of any fort. Neceffity is the mother of invention. With a wimble, which was the only tool we had, we made holes round the leaky places; fome fmall cord, which \ found in my baggage, being paffed through them, and the holes afterwards filled up with pegs, the laths were fo firmly faftened as to prevent the water from penetrating the boat. At three o'clock in the afternoon our repairs were completed, the helm fixed, and the oars adjufted ; and I ordered my people to be ready by the next morning. When we were juft on the point of fetting off, a caravan of Yakoutfk merchants ap peared; they were going to Okotfk, and I entreated M. Allegretti to embrace the opt* pertunity of accompanying them. Our re paration took place at nine o'clock. On leaving him, all the fervices he had ren dered me, and the proofs of attachment ^e t" had 285 TRAVELS had evinced, prevented themfelves to my view, and made an impreffion on my heart. I engaged two of the foldiers to row me, one of whom was the man that had before made this voyage ; Nedarezoff was at the helm; and Golikoff and I were to relieve him when he fliould be tired. The rapi dity of the current carried us on with fuch violence, that we could eafily difpenfe with the oars. At the rate we failed my foldiers had no doubt that we fhould reach the fa mous cataract before night, which was more than eighty werfts from the place of our de-, parture. Their converfation turned folely upon the dangers we fhould have to en counter. Though I was already prepof- feffed with the idea of their inexperience, by continually hearing thefe difcourfes, dic tated by fear, I began at laft to be alarmed myfelf, and refolved to act with all poflible prudence, that I might have no reafon to reproach IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2%f . reproach :myfelf. I frequently went on * fhore, and walked along the river to fee , how far the navigation was fafe. Towards the evening a weft north-weft wind brought on rain. Rather than run any rifk in fuch bad weather I halted, and ordered my tent to be pitched over the boat. The next day, after four hours naviga tion, interrupted by frequent landings to obferve the approach of the cataract, we at '< laft perceived it. Accompanied by my two pilots, I went to examine the fpot. At a fhort diftance from it I faw a little ftony ifland, which is only perceptible when the waters begin to fall. My foldiers advifed me to pafs, if the waters were fufficiently high, by the way of a canal which we fhould find at the right; though the defcent was very rapid, they affured me that it was no thing in comparifen with that of the cata ract. This advice engroffed my whole at tention. ?88 TRAVELS tention, and having convinced myfelf of its utility, I returned to the boat, refolved to put it in practice. I encouraged my people in the beft manner I could, and then took the helm. Nedarezoff fat by me, and Go likoff affifted one of the rowers, for we had only two oars. We proceeded in this man ner till we reached the conflux of the two ftreams, one of which led to the canal, and the other loft itfelf in the cataract. The impetuofity of the latter would have drawn us into the abyfs, but for the fkill and ftrength of my rowers. The inftant the fignal is given, their nervous arms are ftretched to itrike the oar, and to ftruggle againft the waves ; the waters rage and foam, and the violent fliocks they give to our boat, my un- ceafing exhortations, and more than all the fear of being deftroyed, redouble the ar dour of my foldiers. We are at length ex tricated from the treacherous current, and enter into the canal. How fmooth did its waters IN KAMTSCHATKA. 289 Waters appear after this terrifying paffage I To give my people reft, I abandoned my felf to the gentle declivity of the ftream : the helm was fufficient to direct the boat. When we were at the foot of the cataradl, curiofity led me to turn my head. I trembled at its dreadful afpect, and thanked heaven for having afforded me a different way, i Nine boats out of ten that fhould attempt this paffage, would infallibly be wrecked: '1 — the reader fhall judge. What muft be the fate of fo fmall and feeble a float, if, in defiance of danger, it fhould be permitted to follow the courfe of the torrent ? In its precipitate defcent, I fee it the fport of the waves that roll one. upon another, and fall with a deafening noife from a height of twenty feet upon, three enormous rocks concealed by the foam, and over which it muft neceffarily vol. 11. U pafs, 20.O TRAVELS pafs. Without a miracle, how fhould it avoid finking, or efoape the being dafhed to pieces ? Meanwhile, when the water is fo low as to render the canal not navigable, there is no other way left. My guides in formed me that the boats were always un laded before the rifk was attempted, and that this was all the precaution that was- taken, and all the fkill that could be dis played by the pilots. Thefe cataracts are called porog. We had ftill a difficult pafs to make, that terrified my people ; it is called Podporojenei, or the ebb of the cataract, which is about the diftance of a werft from it. They were ftill talking of it when we arrived, and I had; fcarcely time to explain to them the manoeuvre which I thought it neceffary to nractiec Oue object was to choofe the 4eepeft fide; the blacknefs of the water feemed to point it out,, and I fleered towards. it. IN KAMTSCSATKA, 2£|'l It. The multiplicity and bulk of the waves toffed us-about with more violence than if we had been in the open fea. All at Once our boat was pitched upon a rock that was on a level with the water, and which none of us had perceived. We were thrown down by the force of the fhock ; my com panions imagined themfelves to be loft, and had not the Courage to raife themfelves ; it was in vain I called upon them to row on ; they paid no attention to my cries. I caught hold of the helm, and perceiving that the boat had fuftained no injury, I ani mated their droopihg fpirits, and prevailed on them to take their flations. We owed our fafety to the mofs with which the rock was covered ; the boat touched it in its paffage, and glided along without fuffering any damage. To avoid this accident, It is neceffary to pafs exactly in the middle of the ftream, U 2 and 2£2 TRAVELS and to pay no attention to the waves which rife, and feem to break againft the rocks. The paffage is about three hundred yards. At the bottom of this podporojenei, ano ther river empties itfelf ; the clearnefs of its water, and the fmoothnefs of its current by the fide of the agitation and turmoil of the Yudoma, form fo ftriking a contraft, that the eye for a long time diftinguifhes the one from the other. •At the left of this laft is another arm equally formidable, and which is called Tfcbortojflw'i-protok, or devil's arm. It pours itfelf into the Yudoma about thirty werfts from where this river joins the Maya. It is known by the number of rocks and dead trees that obftru6l its entrance ; if you are not careful to fleer conftantly to the right, you are drawn in by a very rapid current, and your ruin is inevitable. 5 I hoped IN KAMTSCHATKA. 293 I hoped to kill a bear that was prowling on the bank ; I loaded my gun with deer- fhot, and fired at it, but in fpite of its wound it fled to the woods, and I loft fight of it. The next moment a beautiful rein deer ftarted fifteen paces before me, but my gun not being charged, it efcaped. I faw alfo a number of argalis, fwans, geefe, and a fox, but I could reach none of them. This day I perceived, for the firft time fince my departure from Yudomfkoi-kreft, a foreft of pine trees. To make up for it, I had not been able to count the numerous woods of firs that prefented themfelves to my view, both on the right and left, and it is this tree * that furnifhes the mafts and other timber ufed in all the dock yards on this coaft. I felt myfelf indifpofed by the attack of a * It is called liflvenifchnoie-derevo. U 3 fever ?g4 - TRAVELS fever, but I paid no great attention to it ; I merely laid myfelf down in the boat, and obferved no other regimen than that of drinking cold water. We no longer halted during the night, as our navigation was become perfectly eafy. Notwithftanding the aflertions I had heard, I could not eafily believe that the Ourak was more rapid than the Yudoma. We failed on the latter ten, twelve, and fre- quently fifteen, werfts an hour. Its moft regular direction appeared to be weft, and it forms at its mouth a great number pf fmall iflands. I entered the Maya on the 22, at two o'clock in the morning, and proceeded in a direction nearly north, but - inclining now and then to the eaft. The banks of this river are lefs fteep, lefs dreary than thofe of the preceding, though at intervals there are moun- IN KAMTSCHATKA. 295 mountains and even rocks. The difference " of the current was ftill more perceptible, as we only failed four werfts an hour. About noon we met nine boats loaded with a variety of military ftores for M. Billings' expedition. They were drawn by men, and were going up the rivers that we had defcended. I was not able to approach them, but I knew that they were bound for Okotfk, under the command of M. Behring, fon of the navigator, to whom Ruffia owes fuch interefting difcoveries on the north-weft coaft of America. He ex pected, I was told, to be fix weeks in per forming what had coft us only four days. The gnats became troublefome to us to a degree that was almoft infupportable. We had no other way of keeping them off than by the fmoke of rotten wood, with which U 4 we.. , zg6 TRAVELS we were obliged to make an inceffant fire in the night as well as in the day. In the afternoon of the 23, I quitted the river Maya for another, larger and more rapid, called the Aldann * ; but I merely croffed it, in order to gain a habitation, on the other fide, oppofite to the mouth of the Maya -J-. I found there fome marines belonging to M. Billings's expedition, who advifed me to embrace the opportunity of a number of horfes of burthen, lately arrived, and that would on their return convey me as far as Amgui. According to my itinerary, I was to go by water to Beljka'ia-pereprava, which is in the ufual courfe from Okotfk to * It pours itfelf into the Lena, at a little diftance from, and north of, Yajcoutfk. + This place is called Qufl-mayapri (latin, or harbour of vi.e mouth of the Maya. Yakoutfk, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 2C)7 Yakoutfk, but in going by way of Amgui I fliould confiderably fhorten it. This cer tainty, and the happy chance that provided me with horfes, induced me to alter tny previous plan. I paid my guides *, and as their -orders were to leave the boat at Belfkaia-pereprava, which was a hundred and fifty werfts far ther, they continued their courfe on the Aldann. They were not a werft from me, when I repented the having difmiffed them. The Yakouts, to whom the horfes belonged, and who were apprehenfive of fatiguing them too much, heard with regret that I intended to make ufe of them. Not daring openly to refufe me, they endeavoured to efeape by ftealth: they, were purfued, and by dint of promifes brought back. To make fure of them we were obliged to fh'ut them * During my five days navigation I had travelled near feven hundred werfts. - • ¦ all 2g,S TRAVELS all up in one ifba, from which they were not permitted to come out till they had confented to conduct me to Amgui ; the precaution had in the mean time been taken of felect- ing ten of the beft horfes for my ufe. After a good night's reft, which effec tually recovered me from my flight indif- pofition, I gaily mounted my horfe, accom panied by the Yakouts, who had been lec tured by Golikoff, and were become more docile. I was aftonifhed at their good hu mour, which made them fing the whole' way. Their mufic is by no means agreeable, and confifts of a monotonous and continual fhake in the throat. They are however great improvvifatori. Their words coft thern no labour or efforts of genius, and the fubject is derived from whatever paffes be* fore them, or occurs to their mind. If a bird IN KAMTSCHATKA. 20$ bird flies, by their fide, they will make a fong of it that fhall laft for an hour. Not that their. imagination accumulates ideas; the fong, on the contrary, is nothing more than an endlefs repetition of the words, Lo ! the bird in his flight! For the fpace of a hundred werfts we travelled acrofs a moving fwamp, in which our horfes funk fo deep that we were obliged to alight in order to aflift in ex tricating them ; the reft of the way was not fo bad. In the midft of a large wood, I faw upon the border of a lake two fifher- men employed in making their winter pro vifions. Their whole habitation was mere ly a roof made of the bark of trees ; when the fummer is at an end, they feek among their relations a lefs expofed and warmer retreat. The 25, we had a great deal of rain, par ticularly 300 TRAVELS ticularly while I halted, which was from four o'clock in the afternoon till eight in the evening. My Yakouts, to defend them felves from it, placed upon their fhoulders a bears' fkin in the manner of a cape. The tail of a horfe, fixed in the large handle of a whip, ferved to keep off the flies. We were fo haraffed by them, that I hefitated not in having recourfe to this fpecies of fly flap. The 26 furnifhed nothing remarkable. I arrived in the evening at the border of the river Amga, two hundred werfts from the harbour of the mouth of the Maya. Its depth took from us all defire of crofting it by fording, and the boats in the mean time were all on the oppofite fide. We called for affiftance, but it was to no purpofe. Out of patience at feeing no perfon appear, one of my Yakouts ftripped himfelf, and fwain over to fetch us a boatl The crofs- ing IN KAMTSCHATKA. 3QI ing of our whole caravan was not com pleted in lefs than an hour. We imme diately mounted our horfes, in order to reach the habitation of a Yakout prince, named Girkoff. In our way I faw a num ber of yourts, but they were all at leaft a werft from one another. At a little diftance from that of the knefetjk, or prince, Goli koff went on before, to endeavour to pro cure us a good reception. The prince really fhowed me great civi lity ; he not only offered me his yourt, and treated me with milk and excellent butter, but promifed that his beft horfes * fhould the next day be at my fervice. Being in- * Independently of various other cattle, he had a ftud of two thoufand horfes in very good condition, though he had loft a confiderable number ,by the conveyances occafioned by M. Billings' expedition. From the manner in which he fpoke of his fubmiflion to the will of the emprefs, I judged that he felt no reluctance at any facriflces that proved his zeal. formed g02 TRAVELS formed that I ftood in need of repofe, he pointed out the hut he had deftined for me, and while it was preparing, he had the po litenefs to fhow me the conveniences of his yourt, which was one of the beft I had yet feen. The fize of thefe houfes varies according to the wealth of the proprietor, and the number of his family. Beams, placed by the fide of one another, and plaiftered with clay, form the walls, which are not like ours, perpendicular. Inclining towards the top, they fupport a roof, the flope of which is very inconfiderable : in fome yourts the roof is fupported by polls. The houfe has but one door, and is divided, as I have al ready obferved, into two apartments. The cleaneft is inhabited by the family, whq fleep in diftinct huts, diftributed at equal diftances againft the walls, and which I can compare to nothing better than the fmall cabins IN KAMTSCflATKA., 4p% cabins in Dutch fhips : every couple have a hut to themfelves. The other part of the yourt is for the cattle, and is nothing more than a liable. In the center of the building is a round chimney made of wood, and guarded from accidents by a thick clay covering. When they light a fire, the wood is placed perpendicularly. Crofs beams are occa-* fionally placed in the chimney, upon which they hang their kettles, and thefe are re peated, in proportion to the number of vef fels they have to boil. In one corner of the yourt a leathern trough is fixed, and mare's milk every day put into it, and ftirred with a ftiekj fimilar to what is made ufe x>f in churning' butter. Every perfon who enters, the women par ticularly, before they attend to any other" bufinefs, ftir the milk a few minutes; it is by this means they procure that fourifh, kit at the fame time pleafant beverage, called koumouifs. g04i TRAVELS humouifs. If allowed to ferment, it be comes a very potent liquor. My hoft fpoke the Ruffian language tole rably well* ; I embraced the opportunity of drawing from him fome information re flecting the cuftoms, manners, and religion of his countrymen, which I fhall infert in this place, together with fome notes that I had before made on thefe fubjects. When fummer commences, they leave their winter habitations, and with their fa milies, and a fmall number of horfes, go to make their harvefls of fodder for confunvp- tion during the froft feafon. They repair to a confiderable diftance from their yourt, and to the moft fertile cantons. In their ab- fence, the horfes are left to the care of the fervants, and the neighbouring paf- * I met with many of thefe chiefs, to whom this lan guage was as familiar as their own. tures IN KAMTSCHATKA. 305 tures ferve for the maintenance of all their herds. I very much regret the not having been prefent at their feftival in the month of May, in celebration of the return of faring. They affemble in the open country, where they roaft oxen and horfes ; and being fup plied with an abundance of fermented kou mouifs, they eat and drink to fatiety, dancing and finging at intervals, and concluding at laft with necromancies. Their chamans prefide in thefe feftivals, and deal out their extravagant predictions. Thefe foreerers are more at liberty and more revered than in Kamtfchatka. Re garded as interpreters of the gods, they , grant their mediation to the ftupid Yakout," who implores it with trembling, but always pays for it, I have feen thefe dupes give their fineft horfe to conduct a chaman to his u vol. 11. X village. 306 TRAVELS village. Nothing can be more frightful than the magic exhibitions of thefe impof- tors. As I knew nothing of them but from report, I was defirous of oeing prefent. I was aftonifhed at the veracity of the account that had been given me : as I have already accurately related it *, I fhall content my felf with defcribing the chaman that exhi* bited before me. Preffed in a habit that was ornamented with bells and plates of iron, which made a deafening noife, he beat befides on a bouben, or tabor, with a degree of force that was terrifying. He then ran about like a ma niac, with his mouth open, and his head turned in every direction. His black de- ihevellcd hair f concealed his face, and be- * See Vol. I. p. 184. + Nothing is more eafy than to diftinguifh the chamans, who let their hair grow, and tie it behind, from the Ya kouts, who wear their hair fliort. neath IN KAMTSCHATKA. 307 neath it proceeded at 'one moment real groans, the next tears and fobs, and then loud peals of laughter, the ufual preludes of thefe revelations. In the idolatry of the Yakouts, we find all the abfurdities and fuperftitious practices of the ancient Kamtfchadales, Koriacs, Tchouktchis, and Other inhabitants of thefe countries. They have however fome more folid principles ; and amidft the ridiculous fictions under which they are buried, we meet with ideas ingenious enough reflect ing the fupreme being} miracles, and fu ture rewards and punifhments. But I was chiefly ftruck with the vivacity and Angularity of their turn of mind. They delight in the fables drawn from their ab- furd mythology, and they relate them with all the confidence of credulity itfelf. By comparing them with our own, one is tempt- Xs ed 308 TRAVELS ed no longer to hold in fuch efteem our an cient and modern fabulifts, when we fee this fpecies of compofition cultivated by fuch ri vals. The two following fables were tranf- lated for me by Golikoff, word for word. There arofe one day in a large lake, a violent conteft be tween the different fpecies of fifh. The queftion was theefta- blifhment of a tribunal of fupreme judges, whofe bufinefs it fhould be to govern the whole finny tribe. The her ring, and moft diminutive fifh, conceived that they had as much right to the prerogative as the falmon. From one thing to another the difpute became fo warm that the fmall , fifh united in a body againft the large, who took advantage of their weaknefs to infutt and perfecute them. Hence jnteftine and bloody wars that end in the deftruction of one of the two parties. The vanquifhed, who efcaped from being killed, fled to the fmall canals, and left the large fifh, who had the victory, mailers of the lake. Such is the law of the ftrongeft. The other fable bears a greater refem blance to our old women's tales, with which children are terrified, and the tedioufnefs of a ruftic evening beguiled. I fhould be apt to fufpect that it was the production of a chaman A Yakout IN KAMTSCHATKA. 309 A Yakout had failed in refpecl, or done fome injury to his chaman. The devil, to avenge the latter, transformed himfelf into a cow ; and, having mixed in the herd, con trived, while it was feeding by the fide of a wood, to fteal the fineft heifers. In the evening when the herdfman re turned, his enraged matter afcribed all the lofs- to his neg ligence, and drove him from his houfe. Immediately the devil appeared in the drefs of a herdfman, an agreement was made, and the next day he drove the cow's to field.' One, two days paffed, and the Yakout faw nothing of his herd.' In his diftrefs he went with his wife, fearched every where. for his cows, and at laft found them — but in what diforder! Upon his approach they began to fkip and dance to the found of the flute* of the perfidious herdfman. The maf- ter ftormed and raved. " Hold there," faid the devil to him. " It well becomes thee indeed, who haft abufed the " confidence of the moft refpectable of chamans, to ac- »' cufe me of ftealing thy herd. May this ferve thee as a ,-" leffon, and teach thee to give to every man that which *' belongs to him." Upon this the herd and the herdf man difappeared, and the poor Yakout loft all his property. The place where this fcene paffed, has fince that time been confidered as the abode of infernal fpirits. The incredulous fcru- ple not to affert that the devil who ftole the * The inftrument which I here ftyle a flute, is a bone hollowed and fafhioned fomewhat like our flutes A l* eignon, and its tone is no\ lefs acute, - X 3 cows, 3IO TRAVELS t cows, was no other than the chaman him-* felf; but fuch is the fimplicity of the honeft Yakouts, that they feel a repugnance at this fufpicion, and treat it as horrible blafphemy. Remains of old tombs of the Yakouts were frequently pointed out to me in the woods. They were coffins cluinfily made, and fufpended on the branches of trees. I know not from what motive they have res nounced this cuftom of expofing their dead in the open air, and at a diftance from their habitations ; but at prefent their mode of interment is fimilar to that of chriftians. The funerals are attended with a kind of pomp more or lefs magnificent, in proportion to the rank and wealth of the defunct. If a prince, he is arrayed in his fineft habits, and moft fplendid arms. The body, placed in a coffin, is carried by the family to the tomb; deep groans announce the folemn proceffion, IN tfAMTSCHATKA. 311 ptoceffion. His favourite horfe, and another the beft of his ftud, both richly caparifoned, and led by a valet, or near relation, walk by the fide of the corpfe. When arrived at the burying place, they are tied to two flakes * fixed near the grave, and while the mafter is interred, their throats are cut over the corpfe. This bloody libation is the ho mage paid to his attachment to thefe ani mals, who are fuppofed to follow him into the other world, where it is imagined that he will again be able to enjoy them. They are then flayed ; the head and hide, in one entire piece, are fixed horizontally upon the branches of trees at a fmall diftance from the grave ; and fuch is the memorial that is erected. A fire is then kindled, and the laft proof of friendfhip for the deceafed confifts in roafting and eating upon the fpot thefe favoured animals.. The feaft being ' * The bark is ftripped off, and the flakes either painted' Various colours, or ornamented with rude fculpture. X.4 con- 313 TRAVELS concluded the company difperfes. The fame ceremonial is obferved for a woman, except that inftead of a horfe, they facrifice her favourite cow. The Yakouts are robuft, and in general large. They refemble the Tartars in the eaft of their features, and there is laid alfo to be a great fimilarity in the idioms of thefe two people ; I can only affirm that the Yakouts are very abrupt in their man ner of fpeaking, and do not connect their words. Their drefs is fimple, and nearly the fame all the year round . the only difference is, that in winter it is made of fkins. Over their chemife they Gommonly wear a large ftriped waiftcoat with fleeves. Their breeches do not extend below the middle of the thigh, but their long boots, called farri, reach IN KAMTSCHATKA. 3*3 reach above the knee. In hot weather they wear nothing but the breeches. They . pretend to. ride better than any other nation in the world,, and their vanity in this refpect is carried fo far, that they avoid, from a fentiment of difdain, giving to travellers their moft mettlefome fteeds*. Polygamy forms a part of the political code of thefe people. Obliged : to make frequent journies, a Yakout has a wife, in every place where he flops, but he never affembles them together. Notwithftanding this licence, they are jealous to excefs, and the fworn enemies pf whoever fhall dare to violate the rights of hofpitality. Thanks to the cares of prince Girkoff, I found when I awoke nine excellent horfes * In fpeaking of the faddles, I ought to have added, that the ftirrups are very fhort, ready 3I4 TRAVELS ready faddled*. He wifhed me to ride his favourite horfe, becaufe it ambled with per fect eafe. Overwhelmed with his civilities, I left him the 27 at an early hour, with the confolmg hope of more frequently meeting with habitations, where I might fometimes reft myfelf, and get a frefh fupply of fteeds. A few paces from the preceding habita tion, which is called Amguinjkoi-ftanovie, or Amgui halt, I faw in the road wooden images of a bird about the fize of a duck, or a^ cor morant ; they are emblematical repfefenta--* tions of a malicious divinity, the terror of the whole canton. The moft abfurd flories* are told upon this fubject; it is faid, for example, that this diabolical fpirit has fre quently led travellers out of their road, and devoured their horfes, I alighted in the evening at the houfe of * Three horfes pay here.the fame as one in Siberia. another IN KAMTSCHATKA. 3I5 another Yakout prince*, who had juft fet tled himfelf in his fummer habitation, which feemed to be equally neat and pleafant. I fhall here infert a defcription of their ourqfi* fis, for fuch is the name by which thefe pu> turefque dwellings are called. Like the yourts of the wandering Ko riacs, they are circular, fpacious,.and con-» ftructed with poles, fewer in number, but ranged in the fame manner, and kept afun- der.by a fort of hoops at the top ; the whole covered in -with the bark of the birch tree-f, formed into pieces eighteen inches wide, placed in a downward direction. Thefe pieces are edged with a kind of ribband equally made of this bark, and fhaped into feftoons, and the infide of the yourt is orna- * There would be no end to my repetitions if I were to mention all the civilities I received from each of thefe Yakout princes, + The bark of this tree is ftripped off in the fpring. mentecj 316 TRAVELS mented in the fame manner. The tafte of thefe ornaments is governed by the caprice of the proprietor, and there is in them a fort of wildnefs that is fufficiently amufing. The fame decoration is annexed to the chairs and beds of the heads of families. The domeftics lie upon the ground on mats or fkins, and the fire is lighted in the middle of the houfe. ; The 28, I came to the river Sola, and rode for a confiderable time along its banks. The heat incommoded me as much as the flies, and I was fo thirfty that I flopped at every yourt to drink koumouifs. The next morning I reached a place called Tarmangui, which is two hundred werfts from Amgui, and on the border of the Lena. J3y crofling this river I fhould be at Yakoutfk; but by a regulation of the governor, every traveller was obliged to wait here till he had IN KAMTSCHATKA* 3T7 had permiflion to enter the town. Dif agreeable as was this kind of quarantine, I had reconciled myfelf to it, when a fubaltern officer reqUefted me to go two hundred yards, farther, where I fhould find the infpector general, and a lieutenant belonging to Mr. Billings. They were informed of my arri val, and received me with the moft flatter ing demonftrations of efteem and joy. I had no fooner explained to them how much the delay with which I was threatened would counteract my views, than they gave irtftant orders for my being conducted to the other fide of the river, adding, that they were fure of the approbation of the gover nor, to whom I had long fince been announc ed and recommended. At noon I entered the boat provided for me, and was four hours in croffing the Lena in a diagonal direction. As far as I could judge 318 TRAVELS judge by my eye, this river cannot be lefs than two leagues Wide, J' '" When landed, I Was interrogated by an officer of the police, who, as was cuftomary, led me to the apartment which he thought proper to fix upon for my refidence. I re quested him to direct me to the houfe of M. Marklofski, the governor, whom I im mediately vifited. He received me with the utmoft politenefs, converfing entirely in French, which feemed very familiar to him. After complimenting me upon the rapidity of my journey *, and my fortunate arrival, he invited me to ftay a few days at Yakoutfk, "*" to recover myfelf from my fatigue. But of all his obliging offers, nothing flattered me more than his engaging me to * I was the firft traveller this year from Okotfk that had yet arrived at Yakoutfk. The diftance between thefe places is about fifteen hundred werfts. flip IN KAMTSCHATKA, (gig fup the fame evening with M. Billings. I had a ftrong defire to be acquainted with him, and I waited with impatience till the hour -arrived. Our common profeffion of travellers, gave us a degree of familiarity the moment we met, and we might have been taken for old acquaintance ; in the mean time we were both perfectly referved upon the fubject of our refpeCtive miffions, care fully avoiding in converfation every thing that might lead to it. I admired the deli cacy and prudence of M. Billings in this ref- pect: during my ftay I dined once at his houfe, and we met every morning and even ing at the governors*; but during our in- tercourfe not a fingle indifcreet queflion ef caped him. He very much regretted the not having met in his cruize the frigates of our expedi- * M. Marklofski was to hold the office till M. Kafloff arrived. tion. 320 Travels tion. He would have confidered it as a hap pinefs and honour to have executed the generous intentions of his miftrefs, by fur- nifhing the count de la Peroufe with every affiftance in his power. It is a debt that he owed, but had no other way of difcharging, he faid, except towards me. There was in reality no fort of kindnefs that he did not fhew me. Riding having extremely fatigued me, I was advifed to fail up the Lena as far as Irkoutfk. This was the more agreeable to me, as it would give me time to recover, and as the delay it would occafion could not be more than four or five days. As foon as I had refolved upon it, M. Billings affifted me in procuring a boat, ordered two fails to be made of my tent, gave me one of his trufly foldiers for a pilot, and in fhort fur nifhed me with every thing that might be ufeful in my paffage. The tN KAMTsCHATKA. 321 The five days that I ftayed at Yakoutfk were fpent' in preparations for my depar ture. I had leifure however to remark that this was the moft pleafant and populous town I had yet feen in the whole extent of country through which I had paffed. It is built on the weftern fide of the Lena ; the houfes are of wood, but large and commodious ; that of the governor faces the port. The majority of the churches are of ftone. The port, which is dry at low water, is formed by an arm of the river*, that, in defcribing an angle, -flows unde» the walls of the town. The veffels that trade here are merely barks; the greater part of them are ufed for tranfporting the provifions fent by government, ; fuch as fait and flour. The merchants hire or purchafe. * The Lena croffes Siberia in nearly its wldeft part, from north-eafl: to fouth-weft, and pours itfelf afterwards into the Fromen Ocean. vol. 11. Y thefe $22 TRAVELS. O thefe boats, for the conveyance of their commodities, from the neighbourhood of the fource of the Lena, where they are built. The Yakouts come not to the town but when bufinefs obliges them; it is almoft wholly inhabited by Ruffians. The effects of civilization are perceptible in their man ners and cuftoms ; the focial fpirit, and the gaiety that is diffufed among f hem> concur, with the interefts of commerce, to keep up among the inhabitants that active inter- courfe which is the fource . of wealth, and augments the pleafures of life*. Having fupplied myfelf with a frefh ftock of provifions, I left Yakoutfk 5 July at one o'clock in the morning. In the northern latitudes, it is known, that for more than a * I fhall fay nothing of the mode of government, as it is fimilar to that of Okotfk. week IN KAMTSCHATKA. 333 week the interval between day and night is fcarcely perceptible. Already therefore the twilight announced t;he approach of the fun, and we could perfectly diftinguifh the fand banks that line this river as far as the firft ftage. Not being able always to avoid them, my guides, or rather the men who drew my boat, befought us every inftant to place our felves in the water like them, to aflift in hauling it over the fhoals ¦. Frequently alfo, notwithftanding the enormous width of the river, we refolved to row a crofs, with the hope of finding a more eafy paffage; but in this attempt the violence of the cur rent drifted us half a werft, more or lefs, back again. Large pieces of ice were ftill vifible on the bank, and would continue fo, I was informed, all the year. I fhall not give a regular account of every day's navigation. The obfervations it fur nifhed are too little interefting not to fpare ' Y a the 334 TRAVELS the reader the tirefome uniformity of fuck* details. The ftages are eftimated by ftations, and are frequently thirty, forty, fifty, fixty, fe- venty, and even eighty werfts*. The rea-* der may judge from this of the labour of thofe unfortunate beings who are condemn ed to' this fervice, that is, to haul the boats from one ftation to another. For the fpace of twelve hundred werfts, this terrible em ployment is the punifhment inflicted on convicts and malefactors. They fhare this liabour with horfes ; but when the boat runs aground,the beaft is fupplied by a man, and then he has the moft difficult paffes to fur- mount. The only relief afforded to thefe culprits is a fmall quantity of flour allowed by government. The Yakout princes in the neighbourhood are obliged alfo to con- * The pofl expences are not the greater on account of • this diftance ; a man is paid at the fame rate as a horfe. tribute: IN KAMTSCHATKA. 325 ::' tribute to their fupport,and in cafe of need, to aflift them with men and horfes. Many of thefe miferable beings are mar ried ; they retire with their families in ifbas that are half in ruins, and fcattered here and there along the right bank of the river, I was one day obliged by the rain to feek a fhelter in one of thefe habitations ; I chofe the moft promifing, but in entering it I was nearly overcome by the noxious air, and words are too weak to defcribe the fhocking picture of mifery that ftruck my eyes. So far from finding a fhelter in this houfe, I was in the courfe of a quarter of an hour almoft deluged ; the rain poured down like a torrent from every opening in the roof, and I preferred the braving it in my boat. Fifhing and hunting fill up the leifure hours of thefe out-laws ; their vicious pro- penfities are ftill the fame, and they are in- Y 3 fluenced 326 TRAVELS fluenced by no otlier motive than intereft or fear. Upon the approach of a boat, they always attempt by flight to efeape from the painful fervice impofed on them by govern ment. They played me this trick more than once. When I arrived at a ftation, of five or fix men who ought to be con ftantly ready to receive the commands of travellers, one only appeared ; the reft had hid themfelves in the woods, and my pre ceding guides were obliged to conduct me to the next ftation *. ,>• I recompenfed thefe unfortunate creatures the more readily, as upon difmiffing them I frequently faw their feet covered with blood, They over-reached me one morning in a fingular manner. A poll boat going ''-¦ vn the riyer, paffed near ours ; it was * ". \Vj;,' always faftened to my boat a fmall canoe, ia which uvjy return home, and which is carried along by the inere current of the river. Golikaffs IN KAMTSCHATKA. 327 Golikoff 's turn to watch . The cunnino- raf- cals afked his leave to change with their com rades, and they knew fo well how to per- fuade him it was for our advantage, that he confented. Eager to inform me of our good fortune, he awaked me, but it was merely to make me a witnefs with what fpeed our villains failed away, inftead of joining the boat that drifted by us. The confufion of. Golikoff at the fight may well he conceived ; he knew not what excufe to make me, as we were obliged to draw the boat ourfelves to the next ftation ; fortu nately however it was at no great, diftance. The men who had conducted the poft boat were ftill there, and my two foldiers quickly engaged them in our fervice. Their ready compliance was I believe chiefly owing to the brutal tone of Golikoff ; our adventure .had put him fo much out of humour, that he could no longer be prevailed upon to ufe moderation. " You do not know," faid Y 4 hQ 328 TRAVELS he to me, " how to treat thefe rafcals. If *' I were to imitate your example, we fhould " be infulted at every poft, or be reduced " to difficulties fimilar to what we have juft " experienced/* Meanwhile we arrived 14 July at Olekma* without meeting with any other inconveni ence. This town, the firft I had feen fince my departure from Yakoutfk, is feven or eight hundred werfts from it, though in the poft expences it is only eftimated at fix hundred. It is fituated at the mouth of a river of the fame name, and is fmall, badly built, and offers nothing worth notice, t flayed there but two hours, A few werfts on a fmall canoe came up to us, with only one man in it. He offered fome bark of the birch tree, which he had * It is alfo called Ohkminfk. ftripped IN KAMTSCHATKA. 329 ftripped in the neighbouring woods; my foldiers were eager to purchafe it in order to cover our boat. My trader was a Toun goufe, and belonged to a family that was fettled on the left bank *. I did not lofe fo good an opportunity of being better ac quainted with thefe people ; I ordered therefore my boat to be faftened on the right bank, and accompanied only by Go likoff, I entered the canoe of the Toungoufe, who was as highly pleafed as myfelf with the vifit I was going to make to his re lations. I was ftruck with the form and lightnefs of their canoes, the bottoms of which are however fo nearly circular as to prefent but little furface to the water, and confequently ^* He informed me that the borders of the Lena were - inhabited on this fide by different hordes of his country men. I muft obferve, that the Toungoufes and Lamouts may he regarded as the fame people. they 33© TRAVELS they are eafily overfet. They confift of laths difpofed in net-work, and covered with the bark of the birch tree fewn toge ther and fortified with tar. The ends are narrow and pointed, and the oar is kept in equipoife in the middle of the veffel, fo as to enable the rower to ftrike alternately with either end. The Toungoufes expreffed the utmoft joy at feeing me: furrounded, welcomed* careffed, I was at a lofs how to anfwer their profeffions of friendfliip. A. young deer was killed and laid at my feet ; in making, me this prefent, thefe gobd people regretted that their poverty deprived them of the ability and pleafure of being more ufeful to me. I was not able myfelf to be very bountiful in my prefents, and I only fhowedmy gratitude by leaving them fome of my clcaiihs. They IN KAMTSCHATKA. 33I They are unfettled, like the wandering Koriacs, and live nearly in the fame man ner. Their yourts are not fo large, and are covered with the bark. of the birch tree ; there is no other difference. Every family has a diftinct yourt ; the chief orna mental piece of furniture is a fmall wooden idol of the human fhape, but with an enor mous head ; it is dreffed in their cloaths, and decorated with rings, bells, and "other pieces of metal. They give to this image the name of Saint Nicholas, in allufion to the patron faint of Ruflia. nijr: I have already defcribed the drefs of the Toungoufes, and have therefore only to fpeak of their features, manners, and mode of travelling. They are not fo large as the Yakouts, and have the funk eyes, flat nofe, and broad face of the Kamtfchadales. They are equally 333 TRAVELS equally hofpitable ; their characterise qualities feem to be franknefs and good nature. In religion, they have the flupid credulity of the Koriacs, believing in all the abfurdities of idolatry. The chamans equally obtain their homage and confi dence : thefe impoftors govern every where by means of the fears they infpire. After fifhing* and hunting, which in the feafon, oblige thefe families to be a little more fettled, nothing engages their atten tion fo much as their rein deer. Thefe animals conftitute all their wealth, and re pay with ufury the care beftowed upon them. They not only provide thefe people with food -f and clothing, but docile to * The fifh with which this river principally abounds is the fturgeon, or flerled. The induftry of the Toungoufes, makes caviare of the eggs of this fifh, as we do. + From a principle the reverfe of that of the Koriacs, the Toungoufes always milk the female deer. This milk, which they made me tafte, is very thick. the IN KAMTSCHATKA. 33^ the hand that guides them, they permit their mafters, both men and women, to mount their backs, and ride them at a fwift pace wherever they pleafe *. Inftead of -harneffing them to a fledge, like the Tchoukt chis and the Koriacs, they train them up to carry in this manner, and make them obedient to the motions of a bridle twifted about their horns. The faddle is orna mented, and of the fame fize as ours, but without ftirrups ; it is faftened by a very weak girt, and the rider, when he totters, has nothing to fupport him but a long flick with which he ftrikes his fteed : it is manifeft that this exercife requires great fkill. The baggage is put into fmall panniers,: covered with rein deer-lkin, and fixed to the faddle, which hang on each fide againft the flank of the animal. During the ftay of the * Their journeys extend as far as the froptiers of Tar- taiy and China. Touii- 334? TRAVELS Toungoufes in any place, the burdens are ranged methodically round their yourts. My navigation became lefs difagreeable when I had reached Pelodoui, a large village, the inhabitants of which are Ruffians, de- fcended from the firft cultivators of Siberia, called Starogili. There I was freed from the dangerous exiles, and had no other guides than honeft peafants, who were equally affiduous and complaifant. The houfes were not fo diftant from one another, and promifed me at leaft fome refource. In each of thefe villages there are fix men ap pointed to conduct the bufinefs of the poft : no privilege exempts them from this fervice ; like all the Ruffian peafants they are annex ed to the glebe, pay the fame duties to the crown, and furnifh recruits. The produce of their harvefts are not adequate to their maintenance during the whole year ; they are obliged to purchafe and lay up a ftock of IN KAMTSCHATKA. 335 of corn. Rye is no where fo dear as in this place ; it fells at feventy or eighty kopecs the poud. Vitim is the village neareft to the preced ing one. As it refembles all the Ruffian villages, I need not defcribe it ; churches are lefs common than the cabacs or public- houfes. Birds are fond of the environs and the borders of the Lena, where they very much abound. The clouds of gnats which cover it, account for .this. To keep off thefe in-. fects, we had taken care to furnifh our felves with a quantity of horfe-dung, with which we keep up a continual fire in our boat; but another unavoidable inconveni ence on this river is the vermin it engen ders ; the rnore we bathe, the fafter they multiply. Four 33*> TRAVELS Four hundred werfts from Peledoui I paffed by a fmall town called Kirinfk, or Kiringui, at the bottom of which the Lena flows, and farther on the Kiringa. In the midft of the houfes, none of which make any figure, we could diftinguifh the church, which is built of ftone. The bank becoming' wider and more fandy, we were frequently drawn by horfes*. The ropes were weak, but it gave me no uneafinefs ; the pleafure of advancing in fpired me with a blind confidence, for which I was foon punifhed. In the night of the 20, my boat touched upon a rock, which the darknefs concealed from us. The rope broke with the violence of the fhock, and our boat was in a minute full of water ;, we had only time to get out, in order to draw it * As we approached Irkoutfk, the direction of the river became narrow. I remarked that the country was better cultivated ; the wheat efpecially was very fine. - upon IN KAMTSCHATKA* "337 upon the fhore, which required all our ef forts. I immediately mounted one of the horfes, with my box before me. We were but four werfts from a village, and it was eafy to have fpeedy fuccour. My boat was refitted in the courfe of the day, and the next morning I proceeded on my route. In quitting the village of Uftiug, I per ceived a confiderable fait pit that was pointed out to me, and beyond it three zavodes or copper founderies. My boat was broken a fecond time, and again haftily repaired ; this day alfo, which was. 4 Auguft, my rudder, which continu ally ftruck againft the bottom, was carried away, as well as a kind of keel that was faf tened under the boat, and I abandoned it without hefitation. It became the perqui- fite of my faithful Golikoff. VOL. 11. % * t0°ft 338 TRAVELS I took horfes at Toutoura, which is three hundred and feventy werfts from Irkoutfk,, and having paffed through the large village of Verkhalenfk, I arrived the 5, at two o'clock in the afternoon, at that of Katf- chousra, where it is common to land in or- der to avoid the elbow of the Lena, and alfo becaufe this river foon ceafes to be na vigable. In this village travellers are pro vided' with kibitks*, or Ruffian four wheel carriages, which are conducted by exilesr and from time to time by the Bratfkis. Between Katfchonga and Irkoutfk is a ftep or uncultivated diftrict, inhabited folely by thefe Bratfkis, a colony of fhepherds, fuppofed to be defcended from the Tartars,. fo flrongly do they refemble that "people. There is fomething ferocious and favage in * Thefe kibitks are in the fhape of a large cradle. They are not hung upon any thing, and though you may lie down in them, you feel every jolt of the carriage. their IN KAMtSCHATKA. 303 their appearance ; they are extremely ad dicted to robberies, and I faw one of them apprehended for ftealing fome cattle. Their flocks are numerous and confift of oxen, cows, horfes, but chiefly fheep. The fpeed with which I travelled, prevented mo from vifiting their habitations, or making more minute obfervations reflecting them: We paffed over a number of mountains, through very horrible roads, and which made my poor Golikoff frequently cry out, bruifed by the continual jolting of our in fernal vehicle ; it was the firft time he had experienced this mode of travelling. At length, having left the monaftery of Voz- neffenfkoi at our right, whence Irkoutfk be gins to be vifible, we came to a fmall arm of the river that winds along under the walls of the town, and which we croffed without coming out of the damage. There Iwas flopped by a centinel, who was de- Z a firous, 340 TRAVELS firous, agreeably to his office, of informing the governor ; but fatisfied with my name and office, which I gave him in writing, he permitted me to go before him. It was a,bout eleven o'clock in the evening of 6 Auguft, when I entered this capital, having travelled, fince I left Yakoutfk, fifteen hun dred and ninety-four werfts. I alighted at the office of police, to en quire for a lodging. The kvarter-mejler, or fuperintendant of that department, led me to a houfe, the mafter of which, far from obeying the orders injoined on him to receive me, deigned not to rife from his feat to declare his refufal. I faw the mo ment when the officer of the police, irritat ed at fo uncivil a behaviour, was on the point of avenging his infulted authority. I fucceeded however in pacifying him, and befought him to chufe me another lodging. In the interval the gorodnitfch, or commandant of IN'KAMTSCHATKAi §4,! fcf the place, major Dolgopoloff, had heard of my arrival, and the trifling mortification I had experienced ; he came immediately to the place, which I had fcarcely taken poffef- fion of, made a thoufand apologies for my having been fo indecently treated and fo badly accommodated, and in fpite of all I could fay in favour of my apartment, he obliged me to quit it, and to go with him. I loft hot by the change : nothing could be more neat and elegant than the apartments to which he conducted me. It was a fuite of rooms perfectly furnifhed and orna mented with paintings in frefco ; but what pleafed me moft was the zealous attention that was beftowed upon me, and by which all my wifhes were anticipated, The next day M: Dolgopoloff prefented me to the governor, major general Arfo- nieff, and I gave him the difpatches of M. Kafloff, as the governor general was then at Z s Peterfburg'. 34# TRAVELS Peterfburg. I was highly flattered by the manner in which M. Arfenieff received me. After loading me with civilities, he infilled that I fhould have no table but his, and introduced me to his family *, whofe har mony, good fenfe, and cheer fulnefs, render his houfe a truly delightful habitation, and communicate their own character to the fociety whom their merits attract. I profited of the difpofition and oblig ing offers of the governor, to recommend to him with warmth my foldier Golikoff. The innumerable fervices which this brave fellow had rendered me, his fidelity, his devotednefs and zeal, which had ftood every proof, pleaded mote ftrongly in his favour than my recommendation, and.M. Arfe- * Almoft all his children fpeak French ; one of the fons writes it corredly, and poffeffes, as well as his brother, a thoufand amiable qualities. They have a fifter married \o the vice-governor. nieff IN KAMTSCHATKA.' 343 fiieff was defirous of fecuring to himfelf fo good a fubject ; but the ambition of poor Golikoff* wifhed for nothing farther than the being incorporated in the garrifon of Yakoutfk, where he was attracted by affec tion to his father, who lived in that town, and attachment to M. Kafloff, under whofe orders he confidered it as a happinefs to ferve. Such fentiments increafed the in tereft which my account of him had in fpired, and my protege' inftantly obtained the favour I folicited for him. I afterwards made a vifit to M.Pofkat- fchinn, the intimate friend of M. Kafloff, whofe recommendation procured me every fpecies of civility. I found at his houfe a catholic prieft, fent into Siberia to affift the * During my ftay at Okotfk, M. Kokh, at my requeft, had willingly conferred on him the rank of corporal. This unexpected favour made fo ftrong an impreffion upon , him, that, on his return from the parade, I thought he would have become mad from joy and gratitude. Z 4 Chriftians 344) TRAVELS Chriftians of the church of Rome, by hist miniftry. His ufual refidence is at Ir koutfk. This town, the capital of the government of Irkoutfk and Kolivania, is fituated on the border of the Angara, and near the mouth of the Irkout, from which it takes its name. Within its vaft circumference many ftone edifices are feen, and churches built with. bricks ; the wooden houfes are large and commodioufly diftributed ; its population is numerous, and its fociety brilliant ; the multitude, of officers and magistrates who refide there, have introduced the modes and cuftoms of Peterfburg. Every perfon in office has an equipage ; rank and quality regulate the number of horfes that draw their carriages, which are fimilar to ours. I have already obferved, that all the tri bunals of the neighbouring provinces are under IN KAMTSCHATKA. 345 under the jurifdiction of thofe of this town ; it is alfo the fee of an archbifhop, a venerable prelate, who exercifes the func tions of that office through the whole ex tent of this part of the Ruffian empire. But it is to commerce that this capital is chiefly indebted for its fplendour. By its fituation, it is the entrepot of that which is carried on between Ruflia and China. It is known that an intercourfe is kept up by land ; fometimes active, fometimes languifh- ing; frequently interrupted, it has under gone fo many variations, that it is neceffary, in my opinion, to go back to the origin of this connection to judge of its confid ence, and the improvements of which it is capable. The firft accounts are, dated in the mid dle of the laft century, about the time of the invafion of the Mantchew Tartars, who, hvaing 346 TRAVELS having for a long time ravaged the northern provinces of the Chinefe empire, at laft fubjugated it entirely. It was to a go vernor of Tobolfk, that Ruflia was indebt ed for the firft: idea of effecting this com merce, in confequence of an attempt made at Pekin by perfons of confidence whom he fent thither. Far from being difcou- raged by the trifling fuccefs of thefe emif- faries, Ruffian and Siberian merchants unit ed together to profit, if it were poflible, by their difcoveries. They fent out a caravan in the year 1670, which brought back new lights upon the fubject, and unequivocal proofs of the poffibility of fucceeding. From that time companies multiplied, the journeys became more frequent, and eftablifhments increafed. This progrefs alarmed the Chinefe, who refolved to fet bounds to it. Forts were erected to reftrain a neighbour, who, ad vancing IN KAMTSCHATKA. 347 vanping nearer every day, by the river. Amour, the Eaftern Sea, and the Selinga, infenfibly approached the frontiers of China. Thefe defenfive meafures were the fource of very warm difputes between the two em pires, upon the fubject, of their refpective boundaries ; a few hoftilities took place, and at laft an open rupture. Many years were fpent in befieging places, in demolifh- ing and erecting them in turns, till the year 1689, when the two courts, by the media tion of father Gerbillon and father Pereira, jefuits, authorifed by the emperor of China, figned, at Nertfchinfk, a treaty of peace and perpetual alliance *, which was to be engraven * This treaty, which had been drawn up in Latin by thefe religious negociators, was tranflated into the Ruffian and Mantchew languages, and refpe&ively ratified by the two fovereigns. This was the firft inftance, fince the founda tion of the Ruffian empire, of a treaty of peace being en tered into by this nation, and foreigners permitted to enter the capital. At this epoch there were a number of Siberian families at Pekin, deferters or prifoners, and who, from the goodnefs 34,S TRAVELS engraven on two ftones or pofts erected on the confines of each empire. By this reciprocity, there was a free com merce fecured to all the fubjects of the two powers, who were furniflied with paffports by their courts'. Meanwhile China had taken care to be paid for her condefcenfion by the furrenders fhe demanded of Ruflia, who loft not only an important part of its poffeffions, but the navigation of the river Amour as far as the Eaftern Sea. To make amends, or with a view of deriv ing greater advantages from this commerce, Tzar* Peter the Great commiffioned, in 160,2, Ifbrand Ives, a Dutchman, in his fer- goodnefs of the emperor Kam-hi refolved to fettle there, and even to naturalize themfelves. * It is in this manner the Ruffians write and pronounce the word Czar. vice, IN kaMtschatka.7 " g4g Vice, to afk of the court of Pekin, the fame privilege for caravans, which the late treaty granted to individuals. The refult of the embafly correfponded with the de- fires of the court of Peterfburg ; the cara vans were admitted ; and as the court re ferved to itfelf the exclufive right of fend ing them, it received the whole of the pro fit *. Thefe journeys lafted three years ; caravanferies, for the exchange of their commodities, were appointed for the Ruf fian merchants who compofed the caravans, and during their ftay at Pekin their ex pences were difcharged by the emperor. This calm did not long continue between the two powers. New troubles, occafioned by the mifconduct, drunkennefs, and info- * Individuals foon freed themfelves from the tyrannical fliackles of the royal monopoly ; they carried on a fecret intercourfe with China, by means of the Mongoul Tartars, who fold their mediation at a high price, lent $50 TRAVELS lent proceedings of fome Ruffians, in the midft even of the Chinefe capital, had nearly annihilated their commerce. The , embafly of Ifmailoff faved it. By the fkill of this negociator, captain of the guards to the Tzar, the diforders were flopped, and the complaints fuppreffed ; fecurity and confi dence fucceeded to this mifunderftanding. To preferve this happy difpofition, Laurent Lange remained. at Pekin, under the de nomination of agent to the Ruffian cara vans. Upon the departure of this refident, af fairs continually declined and the enormi ties of the Ruffians increafed. They excit ed the pride and diftruft, natural to the Chinefe. The refufal to deliver up a num ber of hordes of Mongouls, who were be come tributary to the Tzar, completed the indignation of the emperor ; every Ruf fian was banifhed from his territories, and $ there IN KAMTSCHATKA. 3£1 there was no longer any* communication between the two nations. 'In 1727, count Hagouzinfkoi, ambaffador from Ruflia to the fucceffor of the vindic tive Kam-hi, effected the renewal of thefe commercial ties by a new treaty, that fixed irrevocably the bounds of each empire % and fubjected the merchants to an invari able regulation, calculated for ever to re move all fource of 4ivifion. The court of Ruflia was permitted to fend a caravan to Pekin once in three years, and the number of merchants was limited to two hundred. On their arrival at the frontiers of China, they were to inform the emperor, that a Chinefe officer might be fent to efcort them to the metropolis, where their expences would be defrayed during * The reader will find in Coxe all the details refpeding thefe boundaries, the 35S TRAVELS the time of their traffic. It was agreed alfo that the merchandize belonging to in dividuals fliould not pafs the frontier, and that they fhould no longer enjoy the pri vilege of trading in any of the Chinefe or Mongoul territories. Of confequence, two places were affigned them on the confines of Siberia, the one called Kiakhta, from a flream that waters the environs, the other Zurukhaire*, fituated on the left bank of the Argoun, and they were obliged to depofit their merchandize in the magazines of thefe two fettlements. In fpite of the folemn ratification of all the claufes of this compact, its execution encountered various impediments ; the lea ven of refentment fermented, or difhonefty gave birth to frefh knaveries. Be this as it may, in the fpace of twenty feven years, * This, I believe, is the place called by the Ruffians Ndimatfchinn. only IN KAMTSCHATKA. 353 only fix caravans fat out from Ruflia ; and after the laft envoy this commerce fell into a ftate of languor confequent upon the lofs of credit* I fupprefs the detail of grievances al ledged by the Chinefe againft the Ruffians. Many well known hiftorians have given an account of the complaints that occafioned the fucceflive emigrations of the Kalmouk Tartars, and a multitude of Toungoufes, who were all received by the court of Peterfburg ; we have feen its fubtle policy, moderate and threatening in turns, al ways evading the fatisfaction demanded by China. Thefe difputes continued till the accef- fion of the reigning emprefs. No fooner had Catherine IL afcended the throne, than fhe renounced, in favour of her fubjects, the monopoly of furs, and the exclufive right vol. 11. A a of 354 TRAVELS of fending caravans to Pekin. This act of juftice and beneficence, worthy the genius and heart of this emprefs, was ftill infuffi- cient to give to this commerce its antient vigour. The enmity between the two na tions was farther heightened by the ficklenefs of thefe Toungoufes, who, tired or discon tented with their new eftablifhment, fud denly eloped from the dominion of Ruffia, and returned to their country to replace themfelves under the Chinefe authority. It has fince been feen that the two na tions, difcarding all animofity, entered into a fincere connection, and that the inter- courfe between the merchants became every day more active and interefting; As the Ruffian factories multiplied at Kiakhta, which is peopled, enlarged, and fortified, the Chinefe reforted to the fettlement of Zurukhaire or Naimatfchinn ; the commif- faries on each fide prefided in the exchange of IN KAMTSCHATKA.' 35,5 of Commodities, and the Mongoul language was adopted in the contracts which were made by interpreters. The Ruffians have not the advantage in this commerce. The Chinefe, who trade in a body> are infinitely more watchful over their interefts and circumfpect in their deal ings ; they know how to difcover the real value of the Ruffian commodities, and they have the fkill to fell their own at the price they firft fix, and from which they never depart. Tea, for inftance, procures them an immenfe profit*; they fell it fo dear that the purchafers are afterwards obliged to- get rid of it with lofs. To indemnify themfelves the Ruffians endeavour to raife the price of their fkins, of which the Chi- * When I was at Okotfk, tea was fixteen roubles a pound, and very fcarce. I was told that it was fent from Peterfburg, and that Ruffia at prefent procured this article either from England or Hu'land. A a 3 nefe TRAVELS nefe are extremely fond ; but the cunning ©f thefe people puts them on their guard againft this trick. It would be too tedious to enumerate in this place all the articles that enter into thefe exchanges. I refer the curious reader to Coxe or Pallas, who are both diffufe on the fubject. By a calculation which they made of exports and imports at Kiakhta, in the year 1777, the amount of this com merce was eftimated at four millions of roubles ; but fince that time, various ac counts deferving of credit affert that it has Confiderably leffened, and at prefent it may be faid to be reduced to nothing *. I had * On my arrival in Siberia I was informed, at various times, that the Ruffian merchants repented of the fpecula- tions they had made in confequence of the late adjuftment j and as . a proof that they confidered it as void, many of them, who opened their warehoufes to fhew me the pro digious quantity of fkins which they had buried in them,, agreed in faying that they waited impatiently for the time when- IN KAMTSCHATKA. 357 I had no preparation to make for my departure, but that of purchafing a ki- when a new treaty would gi-ve them an opportunity of getting rid of their commodities. , If I might be permitted to give my opinion, I would venture to affert, that the deareft interefts, both of "Ruffia and China, are concerned in the fpeedy accomplifhment of this new compact ; but, that it may be cemented in a manner more durable and beneficial to the refpeftive commerce of the two nations, it will perhaps be firft neceffary that they fhould, in concert, lighten the burthen of taxes, and take away all the reftriftions that intimidate and difcouragethe merchant. It might alfo be expedient for Ruffia, profiting of the phyfical and natural advantages fhe poffeffes from her fituation, to fit out fhips from Okotfk or Kamtfchatka, or fome other port, which might go directly to Macao or Canton, and carry on the trade at a much lefs expence than by land. The communication between Okotfk and Siberia is not very difficult, and this province would doubtlefs be come more flourifhing when this route was more fre quented. Thefe reflections naturally led me to what I have faid in the firft volume of this work (note, p. 9.) of the project of an Englifh merchant at Macao. Why fhould not the Ruffians make fimilar attempts ? Have they not better opportunities than the Englifh of monopolizing the fur trade with China? When the way was once opened, it would be eafy to extend the communication to new ob jects. I fay nothing of the ineftimable advantage that Ruflia would derive from this commercial navigation, in having numerous and fkilful feamen, A a 3 bitk, 358 TRAVELS bitk* I no longer troubled myfelf about provifions, as I was fure of finding wherewith jto fubfift myfelf at every ftage. The governor gave me a poradojenei, or apaffport, as far as Peterfburg. It was refolved that I fhould be efcorted by a foldier of the garrifon, whofe courage and fidelity were known, and that one of the couriers of the gover nor general, who had particularly recom mended him, fhould accompany me to affift me by his fervices and experience. * Defirous of finifhing my journey more expeditioufly, I left the greater part of my effects with M. MedvedofF, a merchant, who politely undertook to fend them to Peterf burg. To fettle this bufinefs, he invited me to fup with him. While we were at table, the town experienced an earth quake, which was tolerably violent, and lafted two mi nutes. We perceived it by the fhaking of our glaffes, table* and chairs ; all the bells founded, and many turrets were thrown down. Upon the firft terror it occafioned, various conjectures were formed refpecting the caufe of this fhock ; as I perceived that the motion, or undulation, was from fouth to north, it was fuppofed to originate in a neighbour ing lake, called Baikal. I leave it to naturalifts to decide the queftion. I took IN KAMTSCHATKA. 350, I took leave of M. Arfenieff ; his fon and M. Dolgopoloff infifted upon conducting me to the firft ftage, in fpite of all my remon- ftrances. We were feated in the carriage, when my honeft Golikoff came with tears in his eyes, conjuring me to perm't him to ac company me as far as thefe gentlemen ; it was, he faid, the fweeteft recompence I could beftow on him. This lat inftance of at tachment affected me, and I felt that in complying with his requeft, my pleafure was not lefs than his. Having croffed in a ferry boat the river Angava*, we foon arrived to the place of our feparation. While I repeated my thanks, * This river, taking the name of Tounkoutfka, runs as far as Yenifei (near the town of Yenifeifk) and, at fome dif tance from Irkoutfk, falls into the yaft lake, which the Ruffians call the fea of Baikal. This lake is faid to be furrounded with lofty mountains, its water is frefh, but the navigation of it is unfafe, on account of the frequent ftorms to which it is expofed. I much regret the not having been able to vifit it. A a 4 and. 36*0 TRAVELS and took leave of my two friends, Golikoff, concealed behind my carriage, endeavoured to hide his tears, and recommended me to the care of the foldier who fucceeded him. His defpair burft forth when my horfes were harneffed ; he embraced my knees, and exclaimed that he would never quit me. It was to no purpofe I repeated that, as he well knew, I had no right to take him ; my reafonings, my careffes, nothing could pre vail on him to leave his hold ; it was necef fary to force him from my feet, then from the carriage, which he feized on being torn from me. Never, I believe, had my fenfi- bility experienced a more violent fhock ; I departed with a wounded heart. The regret of not having been able to follow the dic tates of my gratitude* ftill torments me, and I can only hope that he may be in- * The ftrength of my expreffions in defcribing my fen- :::.:enrs towards this foldier, require, in my opinion, no apoloj-y. I have nothing to fay to any one that fhall blame me, when informed of the fervices he rendered me. formed IN KAMTSCHATKA. g6l formed of it, for I cannot flatter myfelf that I fhall ever fee him again. I am obliged at prefent to difcontinue my practice of making notes every day. My journey to Peterfburg was fo rapid, that is, from 10 Augufl to 22 September, that it was impoffible to obferve the fame accu racy; for this reafon alfo the reader will pardon the brevity of my obfervations. The country through which I paffed has befide been defcribed by fo many accurate and intelligent pens, and thefe travellers have given fo much attraction and intereft to their recitals, that I fhould only be ac- ' cufed of prefumption, or plagiarifm, if I at tempted to enlarge on a fubject, which they profoundly fludied, while I had fcarcely time to fkim the furface. Many of thefe per formances * are recent, and the curiofity of the * Among thefe authors I fhall mention Gmelin, Neveu, Lepekirm, Ritfchkoff, Falk and Georgi, abbe Chappe, and g Accuftomed to the fertile and rich coun try about Irkoutfk, cultivated by the labo rious Starogili, the eye cannot ftirvey, with out pain, this barren wafte. We are dif pofed to afcribe this melancholy contraft to the floth of the perverfe inhabitants, though it is acknowledged that the foil yields them no return. One might fay, that in con formity with the vindictive hand that pur- fues them, Natiire acts towards them as a ftep^mother ; the earth, to which juftice has banifhed them, feems to feel a reluctance in hearing them ; its withered bofom refufes all fuccefs to their culture. My courier, who had the rank of ferjeant, did 364 TRAVELS did not treat thefe miferable creatures with more attention than was expedient. To enforce obedience, he frequently made ufe of his flick, and my remonflrances could not reftrain him from thefe fallies, which he called, in pleafantry, his reigning fin. One day he had near paid for his cruelty in a terrible manner. Arriving at a ftage we found no horfes ; the man upon whom the Jbufinefs this day devolved, had been guilty of the daring crime to abfent himfelf, in order to get hay. Two hours paffed away, and no one appeared ; my courier at length refolved to go himfelf, with my foldier, and feize the firft horfes they could find. In about half an hour they returned, in a very ¦angry humour, with a fingle horfe, for which they had been obliged to fight. While they were relating the tranfaCtion, the man whom they accufed of being the aggreffor, ran to complain to me of their having plucked off half his heard. At the fame IN KAMTSCHATKA. gfiig feme moment I was furrounded by more than fifty perfons, affembled from I know not where, for as we entered the village, we could perceive no one but thejW^f. They feemed to contend who fhould re proach him moft; I fpoke a long time without being heard. My courier, inftead of aflifting me in pacifying them, ran to the poftillion, who returned from the fields, and made his arm pay dearly for the delay he had occafioned us. The man, whofe beard fiad been torn off, prepared to avenge his comrade, but the foldier, by order of the courier, prevented him, and I was obliged to deliver him from his hands. By dint of vociferation and entreaties I at laft fuf pended the fury of the combatants. I had great reafon to applaud myfelf for my moderation ; the fpectatOrs were enraged at the treatment their neighbour received; they would infallibly have murdered us, if I had not immediately ordered my two in- difcreet $66 TRAVELS difcreet attendants to return to the car riage, and the poftillion to make hafte and harnefs the horfes. The crowd was de firous of purfuing them, but at laft I fuc ceeded in appeafing it, and they efcaped with a few invectives. I haftened to my kibitk, and did not think myfelf fafe till I was out of their reach. I trembled left this event fhould circu late ; in the mean time, till my arrival at Tomfk, a town at the end of this defert, I faw not the leaft appearance of commotion. My people were eager to carry their com plaints before the infpector general, and to my great mortification they appealed to me as a witnefs. This officer explained to me the dangerous influence the affair would produce upon the maintenance of order and fubordination, if thefe exiles of Baraba were not feverely punifhed ; he accordingly pre pared IN KAMTSCHATKA. 3S7 pared to fet out for the fpot, to make an ex ample of them. My vifit to the governor of Tomfk foon confoled me for this difagreeable adventure. I found him to be a Frenchman, of the name of Villeneuve: his rank was that' of colonel ; I was received by him as a countryman, and I need fay no more to exprefs our mu tual joy at meeting. I conceived myfelf to be already in France. The town .of Tomfk is tolerably neat ; it is partly upon an eminence, where the houfe of the governor predominates, and the other part defcends to the river Tom. I only ftaid while my wheels were repairing. I met many companies of exiles, or galley flaves*, and I was advifed to be on my * There were fome perfons of diftjn&ion among them. guard g&J TRAVEL'S guard againft them. As individuals fre quently efeape, the peafants are obliged to purfue them as much from duty as for their own fafety. Nothing is in reality more eafy than for thefe exiles to make their efeape on the road ; they are well guarded, it is true, but they are never fettered. I have feen in woods as many as eighty deftined to the fame place ; they were di vided into companies of four, five, or fix men and women, who followed at the dif tance fometimes of two or three werfts. They are afterwards diftributed in the dif ferent mines of Siberia : thefe were going to Nertfchinfk. I croffed the principal rivers of this pro* vince, as the Oka, the Yenifei, the Tom, the Obi, which the Ruffians call the Ob. On the laft I ran a confiderable rifk in a fmall ferry, which was in fo wretched a condition, that in the middle of the river it filled with water, IN KAMTSCHATKA. 369 water. We fliould have, found fome diffi-: culty^ in faving ourfelves, but for a fmaller. boat, that I had had the precaution to fallen- to. the ferry, and others that' were quickly brought to our fuccour by the inhabitants on the oppofite fide. ¦^ Before I arrived at Tobolfk, I paffed the Irtifch twice, the laft time near the mouth of the Tobol. This capital, fituated be tween thefe two rivers, would have been one of the moft beautiful towns of Siberia, but a fire has made fuch havock as to re duce the greater part of it to afhes. . Prior to this event, it was in two divifions, the upper town and the lower town ; the one, built 'upon the platform of a mountain, prefented many beautiful edifices of ftone; the other was made up of wooden houfes, which were the firft devoured by the flames. By degrees the fire reached the; upper part of the town and the ftone houfes, where it . vol. 11. B b left 370 TRAVELS left nothing but the walls. I made no ftay at this melancholy fcene ; the impreffion it made upon me was equally deep and forci ble, and I fhall never forget the air of con- flernation that was vifible in the inhabitants, who, from the higheft to the loweft, laboured indefatigably, but in mournful filence, to repair their loffes. Already the ravages begin to difappear, and. the foundations of fome houfes and fhops, all rebuilding of ftone, arife above the furface : it is probable that the reft of the town will have the fame folidity. In quitting it I paffed the Irtifch a third time to reach Catherinebourg, or Yekater inburg, where I ftayed twenty-four hours*. that my carriage might again be repaired. I employed the time in vifiting a gold mine in the neighbourhood, and the place where the copper money is coined. I refer. IN KAMTSCHATKA^ oj% I refer the reader to the authors I have already cited, for a defcription of the colo nies of Tcheremiffes, Tfchouvafchis, Votia- guis, and Tartars. I fhall only fay of thefe laft, that the neatnefs of the infide of their houfes aftonifhed me, doubtlefs becaufe I had been a little too much accuftomed to the contrary defe6t among the Kamt fchadales, Koriacs, &c. Thefe Tartars lead fedentary lives ; they are hufbandmen, and have confiderable quantities of corn and cattle : the religion they profefs is the Ma hometan. The head drefs of the Tcheremiffes ftruck me with its Angularity ; it is a fmall fhell of wood, eight or ten inches long, and four or five broad, placed near the root of the hair upon the forehead, and the upper part with an inclination forward. This is faftened with a knot, and then covered with an*. handkerchief, white embroidered or figured, ' B b a and g7S TRAVELS and, out of preference, they chufe the moft glaring colours and the moft crowded pat terns. The handkerchief, which is very large, and hangs loofely behind, is edged with a broad fringe, or lace of gold or filver, in proportion to the wealth or luxury of the wearer. The reft of their drefs can not better.be compared than to a robe de chambre. I met a caravan of Bohemians who afkedme for money, and informed me that they were going to people and cultivate a fmall canton on the borders of the Wolga, near Saratoff". The neceffity of having my paffport ex amined by the governor of Cafan, and the difficulty 'of 'procuring horfes, as I arrived late, kept meJn this town till break of day. The Wolga, which wafhes its walls, ren- - cfers the fituation pleafant ; the houfes fere for the moft part built of wood, and the churches IN KAMTSCHATKA. 373 churches of ftone. I was told that it is the fee of an archbifhop. Beyond the Wolga *, a river famous for its navigation, and which pours itfelf into the Cafpianfea, I paffed before the .towns of Rouzmodemianfk and Makarieff. The lat ter, celebrated for its linen manufactures, is, properly fpeaking, but a village. I was at a fmall diftance from it, and had juft croffed a bridge, ill constructed, and that trembled under my carriage, when my im patience was near cofting me my life. My poftilion, animated by my repeated exhort ations, drove me with great rapidity -f: on a fudden I heard fomething ftrike hard againft * Its borders are faid to be infefted with robbers, whp are probably nothing more than the watermen. I faw many of them in my route, but never received the fmalleft infult, > + It is a praife due to the poftilions of Ruffia ; in no part are we driven fo rapidly, and the reafon is that they are almoft always tipfy. In the villages, after harveft, it js neceifary to take them by force from the public houfes. B b 3 the '374 Travels the box of my kibitk ; I thrufl out my head, and received a blow that made me inftantly fall back in my carriage. A cry, uttered by the courier who rode with me, informed me that I was wounded. In reality a ftream of blood ran down my forehead : the car riage ftopped, I alighted ; it was the circle of my wheel that was broken, the edge of Which had ftruck me with the greater vio lence, in confequence of our fpeed. On putting my hand to the wound, it appeared large and deep : I conceived that the fkull was injured, and I confidered myfelf as a dead man. It is here I can fay with truth, that lan guage' is too weak to defcribe the excefs of my defpair. After furmounting fo many obftacles, fo many perils ; at the very gates of Peterfburg, where I ardently longed to embrace, in my arms, the beft of fathers, whom I had not feen for four years ; on the eve IN KAMTSCBATKA. 3^5 eve of entering my native country, of ac quitting myfelf of my embafly, by deliver ing my important difpatches, .and to be ftruck by a mortal blow ! The reflection overcame me ; I felt my knees tremble and my -head turn round ; the fuccours of my companions fortunately brought me to life : I armed myfelf with courage, tied a band age tight about my head, the wheel was adjufted in the beft manner it could, and we foon gained the preceding ftage to Nijenei- novogorod. I left my kibitk in this village to the care of my foldier, with orders to have it re paired, and to follow me immediately to the next town. While my poft carriage was harneffing, and my box put into it, I en tered a public houfe, and had fome very ftrong brandy poured into my wound, and a good comprefs placed on it, which enabled Bb^s me 2fl6 TRAVELS me to proceed to Nijenei-novogorod, which was from twenty-five to thirty werfts. The furgeon major, at whofe houfe I ftopped, was not at home, and in order to wait for him, I was conducted into a moft filthy habitation, j The defire of not being known, and the uncretainty I was in re specting my wound, induced me not to an nounce myfelf to the governor. In the afternoon I returned to the furgeon's, but to no purpofe. Impatient of fuffering, with out knowing what might be the effect of my wound, I afked if there was no one el^e who could affift me, and they mentioned a podleker, or furgeon's mate, who, after many difficulties on his part, came to me. His addrefs gave me no favourable impref fion refpecting his talents and fobriety ; it had all the bluntnefs and tottering gait of a drunken man. In the mean time the ne ceffity of having my wound probed, over came IN KAMTSCHATKA. 377 came the repugnance I felt of trufling my felf to fuch hands ; but the wretch had for gotten his inftruments. Who would, fup pofe that a pin was the probe he borrowed ? Having examined it, he informed me, in a fluttering manner, that my fkull was laid open, but not at all fractured, and that with the application of brandy and water I mio-ht continue my journey ; he then advifed me to be blooded. The idea of trufling my arm to fuch a drunkard made me fhudder. Having thanked, paid, and difmiffed him, I got into my carriage, happy to be rid both of the operation and the operator. Nijenei-novogorod is fituated, as every one knows, upon" the Wolga, and is fimilar to all the Ruffian towns. When I paffed through it, it boafted of the honour of having a company of national comedians. Reaving Vladimer, I came to Mofcow. M.de 378 TRAVELS M. de Boffe was anxious to have my wound examined by the moft fkillful furgeons. Their report gave me confidence, though the pains in my head were tolerably acute. I found myfelf the more confoled by the removal of my fears, as I learned at the fame time a circumftance very much calcu lated to increaie them. M. de Boffe told me that my father was not at Peterfburg : if therefore I had been dangeroufly wound ed, and this towrt had been the termination of my career, I fhould have been deprived of the confolation of ending my life in the arms of him to whom I owed it. My carriage being in a fhattered con dition, I left it at Mofcow, and fat off in one of the common poft carriages ; but they were fo fmall and fo incommodious, as not even to fhelter me from the rain. I pafled by Tver, Vonifchnei-volotfchok, Novogo- rod» IN kamtschaTka. 379 •rod, and Sophia near Tfarfkocelo *, and I entered Peterfburg in the night of 22 Sep tember, having travelled fix thoufand werfts in forty days, eight of which were loft in the unavoidable delays I had experi enced. Agreeably to the inftruction of count de la Peroufe, I delivered my packets into the hands of count de Segur, minifter ple nipotentiary from the court of France to the emprefs. I had the pleafure of feeing him on his arrival in Ruffia> and I count it among the happy events of my life that I now found him at Peterfburg, to confole me for the abfence of my father. This minifter not Only received me in the moft gracious manner, but interefted himfelf in 'my health with every mark of affection. * Thefe towns are well known : I paffed them with fuch fpeed as fcarcely to fee them. He 380 y TRAVELS He offered one of his couriers to ac company and take care Of me during the remainder of my journey. ' Mean while as the fkill of his furgeon had ef- ie6ted ray cure, I thanked ' the count for his obliging offer, but was unwilling, to deprive him of a man who might be ne- ceflary to him. „ Charged with his difpatches, I left Peterfburg the 26, between eleven, and twelve at night. AuRefner, as the ; wea ther was foul, I was, eight hours in en gaging watermen to take me acrofs an arm of the fea 'called Courich^hqff. I flept at Berlin, count d'Efterno, minifter plenipor tentiary- of the king to this court, being alfo defirous of fending difpatches. by me ; I was well requited for this trifling delay, by the flattering things which it occafioned me from this minifter. At IN KATvlTSC'HAfKA. <*t; At length I faw my native country, and: 17 October at tthree. -o'clock, iffthe after-^ noon, . I arrived at Verfailles. I ahghted^ at the houfe of count de la Luzerne, minif ter and fecretary of ftate for the marine department. I had not the happinefs. of being known to him, but the very kind re ception he gave me, inftantly prepared my heart for the gratitude, which on fo many accounts I owe him. To his favour, upon which I fet the higheft value, I am in debted for the honour of having been prefented, the fame day, to his majefty, who condefcended to interrogate me -re flecting various circumftances of my ex pedition ; expreffed a defire to know the particulars ; and recompenfed me the next day by ! appointing me conful at Cron- ftadt ; a recompence fo much the dearer, as it reminded me of the eulogiums that had been beftowed on, the zeal of all 38* TRAVELS all my family, in the civil and political offices with which they had been en-» trufted. THE END. VOCABULARY OF THE KAMTSGHADALE, KORIAC, TCHOUKTCHf, AND LAMOUT LANGUAGES. 384 Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English. Russian. Kamtschadale God Bokh*- Douchteakhtch i tch, Kout & Koutka Father Otets Epep Mother Matt Engatcha Child Dittia Peetch I la Kimmea Name (of a thing) Imea Kharenetch A circle, or round Kroug Kill la Kil Smell Doukh Tchekh outch An animal Zver Kazit kenguiia Aflah Koll Outlept kouitch A river Reka Kiig Labour Rabota Kazonem Death Smert Eranim Water Voda ' ' Azamkh or Ji Thefea More Ezouk A mountain Gora Inzlt Evil Boll Lodonim Indolence Lenn Kh-alacik Summer Leta ' AdemplifT The year God Tkhatkhafl The univerft • Svett Atkhat Salt Soil Peipiera An ox Bouik Kezioung The heart Certfe Guillioun Strength Cila Kekhkekh Health Zdrava Klouvelk * The reader may confult the Preface for the pronounclation. KoriaC) Tchouktchi, and Lamout Languages. 3^5 Koriac. Tchouktchi Lamout. Kamakliou or Angag En-iega Kh-eouki. Empitch Illiguin Amai Ella Ilia Eni Kmouiguin Ninkhai Khoutean Guiomma Guirri Bi Ninna Ninnea Guerbin Kamlell Kilvo Mioureati Voui voui Vouie guirguin Ounga Alliougoullou Illpoiiilla Boioun Oupouinpin Oupinpekhai Tipiioun Veiem Veiem Okat I'akhitchat guiguin Tiretirkigffinn, Gourgalden, Veiaguiguin . Veieigoti I Kokan Mima Mimil Mou Ankan Ankho Nam Guieguei Neit Ouraktchan Tatch guiguin Teguel Eien Kouloumgatomg Telounga Ban Alaal Elek Angaria! Guiviguiv Guioud Angan Khetchguikhei Kheiguikei Guevan Yamyam Teguiou Tat Tchimga Penvel Gueldafc Lingling Liig ling Mevan Niketvoukhin Nikatoukhin Egui Tmeleflvouk Gue melevli Abgar Tot. 11 Cc 386 Vocabulary of 'the Kamtfchadale ', English. Russian. Kamtschadale, Well Kharacho Klioubello III Dourno Keiel The hand Rouka Tonno or Cettoud The foot Noga Katkha or Tkada ' The ear Oukho Aillo or Jioud The nofe Noff Kekiou or Kika The Mouth Rott Cekcc or Kifla The head Glava- Khobel or Tkhouzgea "J. he throat Gorlo Kouikh Theforehead Lob T, houtfchel or Tchi- kika A tooth ZouV Kip khepp The tongue Iazik Ditchel The elbow Lokott Tallotall The fingers' Paltfi Tkida or Kik-enr* The nails Nokhti Koud or Kououn The cheeks Choki Aie ioud or Pr-enn> The neck Cheia Khaitt The'fitoulder Pletcho Tanioud or Tenna The belly- Brioukho K-Khailita The ncflrils Nozdri Kanngafiounn1 The eyebrows% Brovi Taltenn The eyelids Reflhitfi" Khenng-iatfchouren* Theface Litfo Gouenng The back Spina Kara Natural parts of a man ¦ Kallkhann Natural parti of a woman Kouappa Koriac, Tchouktchi, md Lamout Languages, 3 8 J Koriac. Tchouktchi Lamout. Uimelkhin Nimelkhin Aia Khatkin Guetkin 4 Kanioulit Mouina galguin Mouinguit Gal Guit galguin ¦ Guitkalguin Boudel Velioulguin \elioulguin Gorot Enguittaam Ekhkhaiakh Ogot Ikniguin Guikirguin Amga Leout Leout Del Pilguin Pilguin Belga Kitfchal Kitfchal Qmkat Bannalguiri Ritti Itt Lill Guiguil Enga Nitfchiouvett Kirvoueliin Etfchen lelguit Tchnilguit Kh-abrr Veguit Veguit Ofta Elpitt Irfpitt Anntfchinn, Ennainn Inguik Mivonn Iilpitt Tchilpiv Mirr ftannkhenn Nannkhinn Ourr Innvalte Kh-Elonn Litchvett Kh-aramta Illiatchiguit Virvitt Lioulgoulkhall Lioulgolkhill Itti Khaptiann Kheptitt New Cca 388 ' Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English. Russian. KaMtscha^ale, The blood Krov Bechlem Great Veliko Tgolo Small Malo Outchinnelo High Vouifloko Kran-alo Low Niflco Difoulo The fun. Solntze Koulletch The moon Mecets Kirkh-kirkh Aflar Zvezda Ezeng-itch Thefky Nebo Kokh-khell A ray Loutch Ts-eiguilik Fire Ogonn Briououmkhitch or Panitch Heat Jarr Kekak The voice Goloff Khaelo A door Dver Onnotch A hole in the ground lama Khiouep Day Denn Taaje Night Notfch Kiounnouk A town Grad Atteiim Life Jizn Zo'it lenem A foreft Leff Ouout Grafs Trava Chichtch Sleep Sonu Caekfn A tree or wood Drevo Ou or OutS To fleep Spatt Oun ekleni To cut Rezatt Lzinim To tie, to faften Vezatt Tratak Meafure Mera Tiakinioung Gold Zoloto Koriac, Tchoucktchi, and Lamout Languages. 389 Koriac. Tchouktchi. Lamout. Moulliou moul Moulliou moul Souguial Nimeankin Nimeankin Ekjam Oujppoulioukhin Niouppoulioukin Nioukifchoukan Niguineguiraakhen Nivlikhin Gouda Nivtokhin Nivkhodin Niatkoukak Tikiti Tirkiti Nioultian Yalguia Tfchatamoui Bekh Lillia petfchan Eguer Oflikatt Kh-igan Keh-iguin Nian, or Djioulbka Tikakh-Mouinpen Tirkhikh-mell Elganni Mouilguia MonHtimouil Tog Koutigue-Ietonn Nitilkhin Khokhffin. Koumguikoum Khoullikhoul Delgann Tellitel Titil Ourka Zolou ioulguin Nouterguin Kengra Alvaui Liougiout Ining Nikinik Likita Golbani Gouina Vouivou Gorad Kioulgatnguin Toukoulguiarra Inni Outitou Outit Khenita Biigai Baga'iling Orat » Miel khai'rik Guiilkhet iarinn Ouklean Outouout Outtiougout Mo Kouel khalangui Miilkhamik Oukladai Koutch Viguin Khitfchviguin Minadai Tien mouiguin Tremitim Gadgim Tenn meten ' Nig eni Ilkavonn Elnipelvouitinn Tfchedlioupouilvouitenn Merka Cc 3 39«> Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English, Russian. KAMT5CHADALE4 Silver Srebro A hearth Otchag Ak kannim A houfe Domm Kizd The hearing Sloukh Ioulloteliim Thejight Zrenie Eltchkioulnim Tbetafle VkouflT Tal tal Thefmell Obonanie Kheilk Wiefkin Koja Salfa Stay,ftop Stoi" Khimikhtch A dog Sabaca Koffa An egg Iaitfo Dilkhatch A bird Ptifla Difskhilt A feather Pero Cifliou Hufband Mouje, or Mouch Kilkoug Wife Gena Tigen outch Brother Bratt Tig-a Sifter Seftra Dikhtoung Love Liouboy Allokhtel anim To love Lioubitt Tallokhtel azinn A letter Zemlia Cimmit A girdle Poiaff Ciititt A Jlone Kaminft Kouall Give Dai Katkou Go, begone Padi, padi po\t£ch Teout No Nie« Biinakitlik Tes Da Lebell To drink Pitt Ekoffkholnim The weather Vremea Takkhit, wTakkhiia, Thick Tolft Khaoumouilli Koriac) 1'choucktcki, and Lamout Languages. 39* Koriac. Tchouktchi. Lamout.. Elnipelvouitinn NHguikinpouilvouit4n» Meguen Melguippioulguin Milguipialguio Nerka la ianga Valkarad Djou Tikovaloming Valioulm Iffni Tikila ounguin Mogourkioj Igouroun Amtam Kot-keng Tikerkin Moieni Nalguin Nelguin Iff, or Nandi^ Khanni vouilgui Khvellia Ille Kh attaan Guettin Ninn Ligli Liglig Oumta Gallia Gallia Dei Teguelguin Teguel Detle Ouiakhotch Oureakhotch Edi Nevgann Nevgann Achi Khaita kalguin Khai'ta kalguin Akann, Tchaa kiguit _ Tehakiguitch Eken Kekmitcha angui Nitvaiguim Goudj mon» Ekmoukoulniguin Tchiveatchim Aia vroyou Noutelkhen Noultenour Tor Iguit Ririt Boiat Gouvien Vougonn Djoul Khineelgui Ketam Omouli Khallikhafigui Khel khit Khourli Ouinnie ' Ouinea ¦ Atcha E E Ya Mouiv vouitfchik Migoutfchi Koldakou Khoulitik Khouriti Kheren Nooumkhin Nioumkhin De>om Cc4 39* Vocahlary of ihe Kamtfchadale^' English I. Russian. ' Kamtschaeiale A bone - "Koft Kotg amtch Tofmg Pett Ang ieffonim Light, (not heavy) ' Legok Diroffkhoulou, A cow Xarova Afheep, ot ¦Argali Barann Koulem Apig Svjnia* >; _ A goof e , Gooff Kiffouieff A duct ' Outka Ditchimatch Aditchx or canal Rov Aetchpoumnim Fruit - Plod Iffgateflitch. Horn Rov Dettenn Good Dobro Klioubello Bad Khoudo K'kellello A root "Koren laengettfch The trunk of a tree Penn Erini mellokoll The bark Kora Ireitch " "; White Belo Guennkalo' ;;~ Red Krafno Tchatch-alo Wine, or brandy Vino Koabkho-azamg To faw Seiatt Bread Khleb t Oats Oyeuff r Rye rRofch • To cover •Scritt Khankhlidinn • To carry Noflit Lenouiarenk To draw Vozjt Kheningekhtch * They have no knowledge of this animal. f The blank fpaces in the Karotfchadaje, K^ac, Tchouktchi. and Lampot columns are not filled up for want of proper Wds. fo the rsfpea'ivp Janpiagei Koriac, Tchouktchi, and Lamout Languages. 393 Koriac. Tchouktchi Lamout. Kb. attaam Ettemkai Ipri Kagannguiang Khoulikhoul Ikann Ninnakhin Nimirkoukhin Aimkhoun Khoukoum Kiteb Keteb OuiamkanErbatfch Neki Nota guilguiguin Nivekhfchinkouterguin Khounlram Ievouinann Vouinnia khai Baldaran Innalguin A'ivalkhfchlea Tannia Malguiguin Nimelhhin Aia Kh antkinn Guerkin Kannaialit Nimmakin Kimgakai Kh obkann Tattkhoub Outtekhaiguetchvouili Moudakann 11 khelguin Ourta Nilgatkhin Nilgakin Gueltadi Neit Tfchikhin TchedlionI Khoulania Akhamimil Akamimil Mina Khiniatcheiaguin Khinvaguini Khinealguitati Trai'avam Kouenguinin Giierevouli DjairamGue-enqum Gue-elbouttiann of thefe people. When they want to exprefs the objects meant by thofe wonbj they make ufe of the Ruffian terms. 394 Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale s English. Russian. Kamtschadalb* An oak Doub Afhip Soudno, karable Tokh, khatim Marriage Brak En itipontch. A plain Polea Oufkh Afield Pachnea To till Pakhatt A plough Sokha An harrow Borona Fain, fatigue Troud, Akhltipkonnirh. A girl Deva, or Devka Oukhtchitch A boy Maltchik Pekh atchoutch A pigeon Goloub A guard Storoje Annatchourna Growth Roft A bed, to lie in bed Rodini Iouff aff khenizatch Power, will Vlaft Inatch kekvaouy The evening. Vetfcher Ettem, A horfe Konn, or Lochaf The morning Outro Moukoulaff Now Teper Eengou Before Prejede Koummett After Poife Demell Thou Ti Kize We Moui Bouze He On Tie She Onna Tfchii They Onni "Tie nakil Tou Voui Souze Here Zdeff Tetchkh Koriac, Tchouktchi, and Lamout Languages* Koriac. Tchouktchi. Lamout. 39$ Atviniakou Etvou Tfchouma Konaoutiguing Matarkin Koptonn Kitilkhin Avlann lakhitchatgiiiguin Ianguianaouv Ak kapill Koun oung Lioulngatt Nevouitchkhatt Nenkhai Eioulakai Kmigatalik Guekmiiel Katvouguiguin Tfchinvo Anguivenguin Arguiveiguin Iakhimitiv Reakhmitiv Ettchigui Ettchigui Inkiep Ettiol Iavatching Iavatchi Guitche Guir Mouiou Mouri Enno Inkhann Ennonevit khet Inkhann nevann loutfchou Innkhahatt Touiou Touri Gouitkou Voutkoa Gourgaldenri Kh-ounatch Kh-ourkaprtEtteiram Goudatch Baldajakann Ekjeanni Khiffeatchin Mourak, or Mourann Badjakar Tek Djoullea Effimeak Sfi Bou Nong annioubei Nong ann achi , Kong artann Kh-ou EUia 39^ Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English. Russian. Kamtschadale. There . Tamm Kek koui Look there! Vott Tfitk oun A beard Boroda Elloud Hair Voloff Tcherakhtchr, or koubid Cries Krik Orang torritch Noife Schoumm Oukh vechtchitch. Waves of the fea Volni Kega Sand Peffok Bezzalik^ Clay Glkia Ki'tt khim Verdure Zelenn Dokhle kralo Green Zelenoie A worm Tfcherf Gepitch A branch Souk loufftiltch Leaves Lifti Bouilt lell Rain Dojede Tchoukh tchou Hail Grad Koiitg atta Lightning Molnia Kigkikh » Snow Sneg v- ' Korell CM Stouja K-ennetch Mud Greff Tcha ou efch Milk Moloko Doukh enn Man Tfchelovek Krochtcho Old Starr Kizekh ketlinn Young Molodd Linnett-lek Mhiiik Scoro Dikh-ak Slow Tikho Dikh-letchoull The world, people Liudi Krochtchorann How? Kak Libech mere? Gdc Binnie Koriac, Tchouktchi, and Lamout Languages. 397 iVORIAC. I CHOUKTCHI. Lamout. Nanko Nenko Tala Gout-Tinno Nottkhan Er Lelou Leliout Tchourkann Nitchouvoui Kirvouitt Niouritt Koukomgalag Niketemerguinea Irkann Kouvitchiguitchiguetokloulnorkinn Ouldann Kantchiguitang Guittchguin Bialga Tchiguei Tchigai Oneang Att ann Telbak Touievegai Tourveguei Tchoulbann Tchoulbalrann Enniguem , Enniguen Oug-ill Elliger Garr Voutou outo Khokhonguit Ebdernia Moukhemouk Ront-ti Oudann Nikleout Gueguelironntiti Bota Kigui guilann Agdiou tapkittann. Gallag-all Ellg-ell „ Imandra Khialguin Tchagtchenng Iguenn Ekekaguiguin Guekitchkaguirguin Boullakekh Lioukhei Lioukha'i Oukiouln Ouiemtevouilann Khlavoll Bei Enn pann Guenpievli Sagdi G-oiitchik Goradchik Nioulfioulkhtchann Innaei I'inngue Oumoucheat Metchinne Noulmeague Ett niou Koukann Toumgou Nilchikhikhlavoll Beill Mintchi Miniri Onn C-aminna Guemi Illea 39S Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English. Russian. KamtscHadai When? Kogda Ittia What? Tchto Enokitch To whom ? Kemm Kiouliout To what, with what Tchemm Enok kaiell Fifh Riba Ennitch Meat Meffa Talt gall Bank Bereg Khaimenn Depth Gloubina Amm-amm Height Vouiffota Krann-all Width Chirina Ank Iakill Length Dlina Ioulijel An axe Topor Kouachou Duft Pouil Tezitch A whirlwind Vikhr • >Tvetvi, or Pourg A tempeft Bourea A knife Kholm Tek khoulitch A boundery, a leading firing M6ja Amoufe Mouich Dekhoultch Afly Moukha Khalimltch A nail Gvozd A difpute Brann Letch khalikalim Warrior Vo'inn Tefk koullou War Voina Ar-rokhl-konira Batter^ Draka Lofs-komozitch A breaftplate Lati Agreement Lad Killiouch Peace Mir Lomftach Content, delighted Rad Khaiouk A robber Tad vorr Soukh atchouteh Koriac, Tchouktchi, and Lamout Languages. 399 Koriac. Tite Inna Meki Ioukh-khe InnaennKhoftokvoll Antchouimm Nimm khenn NiguineguillokhennNalamkhinnNivlikhinn Khaall GuitkaouetcheNouteguinn, of pourga Tenoup PipikhilguiraG-alamit ' Kaouv tchiteng Enn khevlann Nonn mitchelangui Kotkinaoutch^laangui Mitchiguev Kovelevlangui' Mitang etvela TiguineVok Koutou lagaiteng Tchouktchi. Tita R-eakhnout Mikinem Reakh-kha Innea Khoratoll Tchourma Nimkhinn Nielikinn . Niougoumkhinn Nivlikhinn G-algate NoultfchkhininnbouialKh-enguielrcjnn Menivouial, pourga J L Kh oungua Neittipell Kh-oupkannKhidlea Pipikhilnik Tcbaliduktchann Mrenn Dilkahn Tipkitinn Nipilvouitoukhineat Djargamatt Niketioukhin-khlavol Tchekti Kh ounniattia Lamout. Ok Ek Ni Etch ' Olra Oulra Kh-olinn Kh-ouqta Ooufski affoukounn Demga G'onaminn Tobar ^Maraourkinatt Ekh-eV Tengueg-iarkirii MinvouilimouikTeigueg-iarkim Nitouleakhenn Kouffikatchinrr Djbouvla Aritaki AnmoldafAriptildioulif Dj.iourmite' 400 Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English. Russian. Kamtschadale. A hole Dira Palp gall To pour- Litt Liouffezitch To boil Varitt Kokazok To go to bed Letch Kh-alitch Sex Pol Ozatitt Below Pod Cefsko Above Nad Without Bez Innakinevka Misfortune Beda Titch Keink Viclory Pobeda Danntch-tch kitchetch Thefofteft and whit eft * part of a tree under the bark Bell Guennkalo Been Bouill Dellitch Ice Led Kirvoul To beat Bitt Emill tchaliim A whale Kitt Denn Fallen Pall Etkhl khlinn A vapour Par Tchouneffetch Lamentation Volp K-khanagtch Brifkly Jivo Zountchitch Difeafe Zlo Khakaitt lilezitch Or Jli G-akka To them Imm Doue enkaldakioul One Iedin Dizitt Tw» Dva Kaacha Three Tri Tchook Four Tchetire Tchaak Five Pett Kom etak Kortat, T'chdttcktchi, and Lamout Languages. 4.0! . Koriac. Tchouktchi. Lamout"; Khenpi Patriguinn 'Kh-angar Koutag-annguinn Nekouteaniet Ounietchip Koukoukevong '. Khouitik ' > Oladjim Matchigatik Mingaitchamouik Daftchiflindira Tchetchaguing Kh arann Erguidalinn < Oidalinn Ekh-e A Ag idali Tfchlmgaik|tchoguidinn '.Ourgadou Mouitinntaouvnaou Gueinnitfllim Dabdarann Nilgaguinn . Nilguikhxn JGueltaldi Nivanngamm Nitvanguim Kh-oulflina Khilleguil Tinntinn Boukofs Tennkiplenn Tratalannvouim Maddia lounni Reg-tv Kalim Vouiegguei Vouieei ' Tikrinn Kipil-at-iHg. Nilnik Okffinn Koteinn gatinng Ternatirinnat Kh-ogandra Koukioulgtinng Evguika Jnenn Kh-antt kinn, Akhali Mbouvkatchalrann Mettke Evouirr Irek Enninng Innkhananntenng Nogordoutann Ennann Inieenn Oumounn Niiekh Nireakh Djiour Niioukh , N-rioukh Elann Niiakh N-rakh Digonn Mouillanguinn Mouilliguenn Dd Tonngono 402 Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale, English. Russjan., Kamtschadale; Six Scheft Killk-okk Seven Semmc Ettgatanok Eight Voffemm .. Tchokh-ottenokh N'ne Devett Tchakh-attanokh Ten Deffett Tchom khotako Twenty Dvatfett Kaachatcho-khotako Thirty Triffett Tchook - tchom - kho tako Forty Sorok Tchaak - tehom - kho tako Fifty Pettdeffett Kom-ietak-tchom-kho- tako Sixty Schefdeffett Kilk - ok - tchom - kho tako Seventy Sem deffet Etaganokh - tchom- kotako Eighty Voffem. deffet Tchokhattenokh-tchom. khotako Ninety Devenofto Tchakh -attanokhtchom, khotako An hundred Sto Tchom - khotakotconj- khotako ti thoufand Tiffetcha Koriac, TchouhcU, and Lawouj Language & 463 Koriac. Tchouktchi. Lamoutj Ennann-mouillanguinn Innannmouilliguienn Nioungann Niiakh-mouillanguinn Nirakh-mouilliguenn , Nadann. Niioukh-mouillanguinn Annvrotkinn Djepkanri. Khonnai-tchinkinn Khonatchinki Ouiounnv Mouineguitkinn Mouihguikinri Mer Kh-alik Khlik-kinn Djir-mer Kh-alikmouineguitkinn Khlipkinn mouinguit- Elak mer kinnpardl jNiekh.alik Nirakh-klipkinn Diguen.mer Niekh aiikmouineguit- Nierakh - khlipkinn- Torigam mer kinn mOiiinguitkihh parol Niekh khalik Nrokhkhlipkinn Nwungam mejf Nioukhalikmouiiieguit-Neurde khlipkinn inou- Nadann mer kinn innguitkinn parol Niakh-khalik Itfrakhj khlipkinn Djepkann mei t Niak alikmouineguit-Nrakhkhlip'kinmouinn- Oulonn mex kinn guitkinn parol Mouilanguinn kh-alik Mouil ligueing khlip- Niata guitkinn ,, Mouineguitkinn mdui- Mouinguitkinn. khlip- Menn naniali languin khalik kinn t>d: VOCABULARY OF THE KAMTSCHADALE LANGUAGE, At St. Peter and St. Paul, and at Paratounka *. English. Russian. Kamtschadale. Piclure of a faint Obraff Noukhtchatchitch Ifba, Ruffian houfe Ifba Kifout Window Okna Okno Table Stoll Ouzitor A ftove, furnace Petch Patch Subterranean houfe Iourta Kentchitch A Kamtfchadale Kamtfchadal Itolmatch An officer Afitfer Houizoutchitclj An interpreter ' Perevbdtfchik Ka aa toufs A fledge Sanki Skafkatt Harnefs the dogs Japregai Sobaki Kozaps nouzak Harnefsfor dogs- Alaki . Tennemjeda A mirror Zerklo Ouattchitch Water Voda I.i Fire Ogonn Panitch Light the pre Doftann ogonn Na anidakhtch Gun Fouzeia, or Roujie Koum * Though the language at Bolcheretfk he different from what is fpoken at both thefe places, aU the words of this Vocafiufaiy are there nude ufe of. Vocabulary of the Kamtfchadale Language, tyog English, A bottle A bag TeaForksAfpoonA knife A plate A table-cloth A napkin Bread A waiftcoat Breeches . Stockings- BootsA fort of boot made of thefkin of the feavtolf or the feet of rein deir. AJhoe '•'' -'' Ajhift orfhirt Gloves A ring Give fome fiod Give fome water to drink Paper A book". A cup The head The forehead The hair Russian* Boutilka MechokTcha'iVilki ' Lochka Nojik Torelka Scatert Salfetka Khlib Kamzol Schtani Tchoulki Sapogui Torbafli BochmakiRoubachka Pertchaki Perftenn Dai ieft Dai pitt vodi Boumaga Kniga Tchachka Golova LopVoloffi f; KAMTSGHADALE. Souala Maoutch • Amtchabuje « Tchoumkoufii Kachpa VatchiouTrerika Ietakhatt /\ Toutkcha %1" ¦• '¦' Kop kom IkoumtnakhKouaouPaim&nn' ¦'¦ Kotnokot Skhvankmd Konkot OurvannKikafkhroulid KonhaZQUtchem Segcha KotkoiiN, ks - Kalikol ¦ SajaTkhouzja Tchikika; Koubid, 4^6 Vocabulary^ the Kamtfchadale Language^ English. Russian. KaMTSCHADAL,£ The eyes Glaza Nadid The nofe Nofs Kika The mouth Rot Rouki Kiffa The hands Settoud Thefeet Nogui Tchkada The body Telo Konkha'i The eye-brows Brovi Titdad Theflngers Paltfi Pkida The nails Nokhti Koud The cheeks , . Schtchoki Abalioud * The neck Scheia Khaitill The ears Ouchi I-ioud The Jhoulders Pletcha Tanioud A cap Chapka Khalaloutch Afafh Kouchak Sitit. A needle Igla Chicha A Thimble Naperftok Oulioul , Give your hand Dai roukou Kot koflbutoii Take this prefent Primi prezent Kamaiti Thank you Blagodarftvouiou Deleamoui Wafh thejhirt Vouimoui roubachki Kadmouikh Soap Mouilo Kadkhom. AJable Sobol Komkom A fox Liffitfa Tchachiann An otter- Vouidra MouichemouicbV A hare Ouchkann, Zaits Mouis tchitch An ermine Gornoftall Deitchitch A goof e Goufs Kfoaifs A duck Outka Archimonfs ]At St. Peter and St. Paul, and at Pardtounka. 407 English. Russian. Kamtschadale Chicken Kouritfa Kokorok A fwan Lebed Mafkhou A bear Medved Kaza A wolf Volk ' Kotaioum A cow Korova Koouja " Fifh Riba Etchiou Meat Meffo Tatal Butter Maffo Kotkhom Milk Moloka Nokonn Give food immediately Dai-ieft-po flcoreie Kotkotakoffalk Give fomething to drink immediately Dai-pitt-pofkoreie Tikoffofk Hufband Mouje Alkou Wife Baba, jena Kanija Daughter Defka Outchitchiou Infant Malinnko robenok Paatchitch A church Tferkov Takakijout A priefi Pop Iakatchitcb. Apriejfs wife Popadiia Alnatfch Afervant of the Church Diatchok Diiatchok A cburcb chandelier Padilo Kapoutchittlj One Iedinn Dizk Two- Dva Kaza Three Tri Tfoko Four Tchetire Tfak Five Pett Koumnak Six Scheft Kilkok Seven Semm Idadok Sight Voffemm Tfoktouk Nine D^vett Tfaktah 408 Vocabulary 'of 'the Kamtfchadale Language, &c. English. Russian. Kamtschadale. Ten Deffett Koumouktoukh Eleven YedLnn nadffet Dizkkina Twelve Dva nadffet Kachichina Thirteen ' Tri nadflet Tchokchina Fourteen Tchetire nadffet Tchakchina Fifteen Pett nadffet Koumnakchina Sixteen Scheft nadffet Kilkoukchina Seventeen Sem nadffet Paktoukchina Eighteen Voffem nadffet Tchoktpuk Nineteen Devett nadffet Tchaktak Twenty Dvatffet Koumhhtouk. Fifty Pettdeffet Koumkhtoukha An hundred Sto Koumkhtoukoumkhtou. kha END OF THE VOCABULARY^