i^^Tf'^i---

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"I give ihefe Btoki. y
fpr the foanitiag ef a. Cclleg-i'M 0Ji-: ga/o^f^

" ILIlIBI^^mf "

Gift of
Charles William Bardeen
Yale 1869
1922

PROMINENT INCIDENTS

IN THE LIFE OF

JOHN M. WIETING, M.D.

^^M""*'^?^^

PROMINENT INCIDENTS

IN THE LIFE OF

Dr. JOHN M. WIETING

INCLUDING HIS TRAVELS WITH HIS WIFE AROUND
THE WORLD.

MARY ELIZABETH WIETING

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK & LONDON
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
1889

Copyright by
MARY ELIZABETH WIETING

Press of
G. P. Putnam's Sons
New York

PREFACE.

It has been a pleasure to the author, during the
last few weeks since the death of her husband, Dr.
John M. Wieting, to occupy her time in writing this
short record of his life, touching only upon the most
salient events and epochs therein, which in their pas
sage have formed, rounded, and perfected the char
acter of the man, stamping it with insignia distinct
in individuality, changeless in nature, and which
grew brighter in lustre as the years rolled on.
The finest gold is subjected to the strongest cruci
ble, emerging therefrom freed from dross ; so this
brave soul, whose youth was passed amid privations
and struggles to obtain and preserve a foothold for
himself and his dear ones, who through financial
disaster had come to be dependent on him, came out
at last triumphant, through steadfastness and single
ness of purpose and straightforward aiming for the
end. The writer hopes to avoid the censure that some
times falls upon the head of the eulogist, and she
does not wish to be considered as having overdrawn
or idealized her subject, as none know better than
she the faults that human flesh is heir to, and which
but serve to prove our human nature.
She has written this history as a tribute of affec
tion to him who has preceded her into the Great

IV PREFACE.
Unknown. She makes no pretensions as an aspirant
for literary honors, and she presents this little volume
to the numerous friends of Dr. Wieting, satisfied if,
by this means, he may live in their memory now that
he is withdrawn from their sight.
In addition to this sketch of his life, she has writ
ten a somewhat extended history of their tour around
the world in 1875 and 1876, which was a source of
much pleasure and profit to them both, and to which
Dr. Wieting always referred as one of the pleasant
est episodes of his life, from which he returned with
a vast fund of practical knowledge, which was made
available in many ways throughout the remainder of
his life, both for his own benefit and that of others.
While many of the statements given in this book
hold good at the present date, yet the world moves ;
changes have occurred since this trip was taken,
twelve years ago. The reader will please bear in
mind the lapse of time, should he read of facts which
do not exist at the present day, or exist under an
altogether different aspect.
The illustrations contained in this work are taken
from photographs obtained in the countries visited.
This volume presents itself to its little world — not
in the character of a biography alone, nor yet a com
plete history of travel, but partaking of the nature
of the two, without aspiring to the dignity of either.
Trusting her account of their united experiences
in many foreign lands may afford entertainment for
a leisure hour, this volume is presented with the com
pliments of the author.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter I. .......... i
Birth of John M. Wieting — His Ancestry — His Early Struggles for an
Education — Awakening Ambition — The First Step toward Fame —
Romantic Incident — A Brilliant Career.
Chapter II  12
Leaves the Lecture Field in the Height of Success — Burning of the
Wieting Block — Failing Health — Decides upon a Tour round the
World — Across the Continent — CaUfomia, the Land of Big Trees,
Big Stories, Big Fortunes, and Big-Hearted People.
Chapter III. .  22
Good-bye to America — Off for Foreign Lands — Across the Pacific
Ocean — A Day Lost.
Chapter IV. — Japan .... . . 26
Yokohoma — Gin-rick-i-shas — Preparing Tea for Market — The Land
of the Mikado — Japanese Temple — Yeddo — The Famous Idol, Dai
Butsu.
Chapter V. — China  34
The Coffins of the Dead — Sights and Scenes in Shanghai — Hong
Kong — Punkahs — Sedan-Chairs.
Chapter VI. — China (Continued)  42
Canton — Opium Smuggling — Isle of Shamen — Temples — Bird's-
Nest Soup — Characteristics of John Chinaman.
Chapter VII. — En Voyage  50
The Typhoon — Singapore, 1° 18' above the Equator — Ceylon — Point
de GaUe to Bombay, India.
Chapter VIII. — India . . . . . 58
Bombay — Tower of Silence — Distinctions of Caste — Calcutta —
Agra— The Taj— Delhi— Aden, Gulf of Aden— Red Sea— Suez—
The Great Desert.

VI CONTENTS.
PAGE
Chapter IX. — Egypt  65
Cairo — Temples — Palaces — Inundation of the Nile — Pyramid Field
of Egypt — Sphinx — Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's
Needles.
Chapter X. — Italy  79
Naples— Pompeii— Rome— The Pantheon— St. Peter's— The Vati
can.
Chapter XL — Italy (Continued)  91
Florence — Venice — Bridge of Sighs — Grand Canal — Cathedral at
Milan.
Chapter XII. — Switzerland and France ... 97
Mont Cenis Tunnel — Geneva — Zurich — lUness while in a Foreign
Land — Paris — Champs Elysees — Home Life at the Cafes — Pere la
Chaise — Versailles.
Chapter XIII. — England  104
London — Underground Railway — Westminster Abbey — Tower of
London — British Museum — Hampton Court — Parks of London —
Homeward Bound.
Chapter XIV. — A Second European Tour . • "3
At Home Again — Interesting Excursions by Carriage through the
State — Increasing Ill-Health of the Doctor — Tries the Ocean Pana
cea Once More.
Chapter XV. — The German Empire . . 119
Bremen — Appearance of Railway Stations — Hamburg — Holstein
Cattle — Flower Girl — Government of Hamburg — Stendal — Feather
Beds — The Dutch Stove — Hunting for the Doctor's Genealogical
Tree.
Chapter XVI. — The German Empire (Continued) . 127
Berlin — Royal Museum — Beer Gardens — Unique Parks — Potsdam —
Kaiser Wilhelm's Favorite Palace — Frederick the Great — Sans
Souci — What Germany Thinks of France.
Chapter XVII. — The German Empire (Continued) —
Bohemia  136
Peculiarities of the Country as Seen by Rail — Dresden, the Capital
of Saxony — Augustus the Second's Sleigh-Ride — The Green Vaults
— The King ; What 's in a Name — Prague, Bohemia — A Nation
Conquered but not Subdued.
Chapter XVIII. — Austria  143
Discomforts of Railway Travel in Europe — On the Blue Danube —
Vienna, the Gayest and Most Beautiful City in Europe — Innsbruck
— The Tyrolean Alps, Famous in Song and Story.

CONTENTS. vii
PAGE
Chapter XIX. — Bavaria  152
Munich — Art and Artists — The Wonderful Opera — The Cemetery ;
Strange Customs There — Baden-Baden — Mineral Waters.
Chapter XX. — Strasbourg and Heidelberg . . . 159
Bombardment of Strasbourg — German Enterprise — The Cathedral —
Heidelberg — The Castle, the Most Magnificent Ruin in Europe —
The University.
Chapter XXI. — Along the Rhine  168
Frankfort-on-the-Main — The Market-Place — The Opera — Down the
Rhine as Compared with down the Hudson — Cologne — Church of
the Eleven Thousand Virgins — Eau de Cologne.
Chapter XXII. — Holland . . . 175
Amsterdam — House-Building under Difficulties — Holland Dykes —
The Hague — The House in the Wood — Scheveningen, a Seaside
Resort — Bathing Wagons — Rotterdam — Fighting the North Sea.
Chapter XXIII. — Belgium  183
Antwerp — Brussels — Lace-Making — The Unique Painter Wiertz.
Chapter XXIV. — France .... .189
Second Visit to Paris — The Universal "Pour-Boire," the Bane of
Americans — The Morgue — Condition of France as a Nation.
Chapter XXV. — England . . . 193
London — Windsor — Oxford University — Spurgeon — Exciting Scenes
in and about Trafalgar Square — Beggars in London — The Ubiqui
tous Umbrella.
Chapter XXVI.  203
From London to Liverpool — Homeward Bound — A Visit to Queens-
town — Sunday at Sea.
Chapter XXVII  208
The Adieu to the Old Year— In the Shadow of Death— From Life
to Death — From Death to Life Again.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Portrait of Dr. John M. Wieting
Burning of the Wieting Block, July, i88i
Mikado's Summer Palace, Tokio .
Opium Smokers' Den ...
Chinese Merchant's Residence
Travellers' Palm, Singapore
Nautch Bungalow .
The Taj, Agra .
View on the Nile
Great Pyramid and Sphinx
Palace of the C^sars, Rome
The Tower of London
Sans Souci, Potsdam
The Windmill, Potsdam
Prague Cathedral .
Innsbruck in the Tyrol
Heidelberg Castle .
Old Canal, Amsterdam

Frontispiece 14
• 32
• . 36
4454S8
62
66 74
88
106132134
140150
166176

CHAPTER I.
Birth of John M. Wieting — His Ancestry — His Early Struggles for an Educa
tion — Awakening Ambition — The First Step toward Fame —
Romantic Incident — A Brilliant Career.
While the present century was still young, in a
quiet corner in the State of New York, in the little
town of Springfield, Otsego County, a sturdy baby
boy opened his eyes upon a world which was teeming
with strange and wonderful experiences for him ; a
world where this child, as he advanced to youth and
manhood, should carve a pathway for himself, steep,
rugged, and thorny, to heights of usefulness and
honor. Amid the hills and vales of the beautiful Otsego
County, the little boy grew apace ; imbibing the wise
precepts of his mother, a child of the Revolution, and
descendant of England, and the stern maxims of his
father, who possessed many of the typical qualities
of the German race, from which he was descended.
Early evincing great aptitude for learning, the boy
soon mastered all that was taught in the district
schools, and at the early age of fourteen, he started
to make his own way in life ; partly impelled
thereto by his own awakening ambition, and partly
by his condition at home, he being the eldest of four
children, and his father having suffered heavy pecuni-

2 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
ary losses, rendering it necessary for each to do
something toward the general support as soon
as possible. He became a teacher in the public
school at Deerfield, Oneida County, at this tender
age — a mere boy ; and from his own lips have I heard
an account of many of the trials he encountered, in
which at this early period of his life he came out
ahead by the exercise of that wonderful tact which
was one of his predominant qualities, and which
served him well all through his life.
An incident in illustration of this point :
The school which he first engaged to teach bore a
hard reputation. The big boys, or rather the bullies
of the school, were older and much larger and
stronger than he ; they had already turned out one
teacher, and as this slender stripling appeared before
them the air smelled of mutiny.
The thoughtful, earnest-faced boy took in the situa
tion at a glance. Whipping would be impossible ;
he could stand no chance with these burly clowns. So
he wisely laid down no rules, hence there were none
to be broken ; but taking advantage of an opportunity
afforded, he one day talked with the biggest and
roughest of these bullies. He said : "I have come
here to see if I can do any thing to help you along. I
was advised not to come, as the school bears a bad
reputation ; but I have come, and I want you to help
me preserve order, and we will see if we can't change
the reputation of this school. In return I will give
you the benefit of such knowledge as I may have
acquired in a few years of hard study."

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 3
The bully extended his hand in token of friendship
and to seal the compact. The result was, not one
dared offer a disrespectful word to the little teacher,
or he would have pounced upon him at once.
He continued very successfully in this capacity for
four years, also attending school at the Clinton
Liberal Institute, where he had a free scholarship,
but boarded himself.
He was a devoted and tireless student, and his
thirst for knowledge seemed boundless. But the fun-
loving element was not lacking in his nature, as was
evinced by the numberless stories he has narrated to
me of his harmless pranks and escapades, both at
school and at home.
At the age of eighteen he assisted in the survey of
the New York and Erie Railroad ; at the age of twenty,
in the year 1837, he came to Syracuse, N. Y., and en
gaged as engineer in the construction of the Syracuse
and Utica Railroad, which position he held for about
six years. During that time he also graded many of
the streets of what was then the village of Syracuse.
Mathematics and the natural sciences seemed to
possess a wonderful charm for him. All his leisure
hours were devoted to study ; yes, and many of the
hours of the night, when his fellow-workmen were
buried in sleep, by the dim light of a candle this
young man poured over his books, alone and unaided,
solved knotty problems, and made himself acquainted
with the natural laws governing the world and man.
Gradually the idea of himself becoming an ex
pounder of these laws dawned upon him, and he

4 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
commenced the study of medicine with Dr., Hiram
Hoyt, of Syracuse.
During all these six years he was the chief support
of his father's family, his father being incapacitated
from poor health, and the family was kept in comfort
by him, though it sorely taxed his slender savings.
Ever foremost in his mind was the welfare of
father and mother ; and they were surrounded by
this thoughtful care all their lives.
In after years, when success crowned his efforts,
and he was enabled to surround them with luxuries,
it was his pride and pleasure so to do ; and for many
years his aged mother lived in a home made for her
by this loyal son, with all the appurtenances of wealth
and luxury, and her dying eyes closed amid these
beautiful surroundings, resting last upon the middle-
aged man standing at the foot of the bed, to whom
she owed all this, the only one left to her of all the
family, and to whom she referred, even when dying,
as " the bread-and-butter boy," or the boy who gets
the bread and butter.
" Honor thy father and thy mother " ; yea — to
honor and to be loyal to them were as the breath of
life to him ; and it ended not with death, for to-day,
in beautiful Oakwood Cemetery, stands a grand
monument erected to their memory by him who
then had adequate means to build for his beloved
dead a sacred and secure resting-place. It is a
noble structure — rugged, solid, and enduring, like
its builder.
While a student of medicine. Dr. Austin Flint, late

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 5
of New York City, came to Syracuse to deliver a
course of lectures on Physiology, illustrated with a
manikin. John M. Wieting became very much inter
ested in the subject, and made Flint an offer for his
lecturing apparatus, which was accepted, the young
Doctor borrowing the money to enable him to buy it.
He resolved to enter the lecture field himself ;
commencing his work in the spring of 1843 in a
modest and quiet way in the small towns and vil
lages of his own State. His lectures were confined
strictly to physiology and the laws of life and health.
In the early part of his career as a lecturer he re
ceived his diploma as a medical student, and so
became a full-fledged M.D.
From this time on his star was in the ascendant,
and for a period of over twenty years shone with ever
increasing lustre. From the smaller towns and vil
lages he pushed his way into the larger ones ; from
time to time increasing his apparatus by judicious
purchases, until he possessed the largest and most
complete apparatus for lecturing on these subjects
ever owned in this country. His manner on the plat
form is said to have been inimitable. Brilliant, enter
taining, and instructive, he was everywhere courted
and sought after ; but he bore his honors modestly —
never relaxing from a rigid course of study when not
actively engaged ; and when wealth began to pour in
upon him — the coin of his brain, — and his name and
fame were noised abroad, he carried himself ever
with the same simplicity and unostentation.
He gave over one hundred courses of lectures in

6 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Boston and vicinity to crowded houses. He might
have been called the pioneer lecturer on physiology
and the laws of life and health, as he was the first to
present the subject in such a way as to render it
attractive and agreeable to the masses.
I have before me now an extract from a Boston
paper, bearing date 1850, referring to the Doctor's
lectures in the following terms :
" Dr. Wieting has created a perfect furore of excitement
in Boston upon one of the most scientific of all scientific
subjects — anatomy. His lectures at the Tremont Temple
are attended by upwards of two thousand ladies and gentle
men every night. Not a single seat in that vast hall where
a person can possibly see the stage and apparatus is unoccu
pied ; and even the aisles are filled with people seated on
benches or stools, or standing as best they can. We have
been there several nights three quarters of an hour before
the commencement of the lecture, and found upwards of a
thousand persons already in the front seats. Such an im
mense rush was never caused in Boston before by any
lecturer on a scientific subject."
An extract from the Philadelphia Daily Ledger,
bearing date April 10, 1851, says :
" Dr. Wieting  Unwearied attention from crowded
houses attests unequivocally the interest of the Quaker City
in the physiological and, we may justly add, moral lectures
of Dr. Wieting. The universal verdict is : ' We have never
had a more useful lecturer. Let him be heard, and he needs
no eulogist.
" He is a man of uncommon scientific accomplishments,
and at the same time possesses a peculiar talent of impart
ing his knowledge in a highly agreeable and instructive
manner.

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. J
" We do not remember an instance of such long-continued
and general interest as attended the Doctor's lectures in this
city and vicinity during the past winter."
I have also before me one of the printed handbills
of his lectures given at Maryland Institute, Baltimore.;
the date of the year is lacking, but should judge it to
be 1850 or 1 85 1. It is very elaborate, the heading
being :
iW "FIRST LECTURE FREE!"
then follow cuts of the manikins and parts of his
anatomical apparatus.
Then follow descriptions of the
"SIX SPLENDID FRENCH MANIKINS, LIFE-SIZE.
TWELVE BEAUTIFUL FRENCH SKELETONS,
VARYING IN SIZE FROM AN INCH AND HALF TO SIX FEET IN HEIGHT :
The Manikin, which seems only to want the breath of life to make it a
thinking, walking, human being, is the greatest, most wonderful and curious
piece of mechanism of the age in which we live ; was made by that distinguished
anatomist, Dr. Auzoux, of Paris ; is the result of nearly thirty years of labor,
and the admiration of the literary and scientific of this country and Europe ;
is constructed so that it can be taken apart in such a way as to exhibit not only
the Form, Size, Location, and attachments, but the actual color and appear
ance of every essential organ in the constitution ; exhibiting
OVER 1,700 PARTS OF THE HUMAN BODY, etc., etc.
The Manikins and Skeletons will Stand Erect,
AND will be Brilliantly Illuminated.
Dr. W. has been years in accumulating this Lecturing Apparatus at an
enormous expense, and he has now greater facilities to illustrate the subjects he
lectures upon than any other man in the United States or the World.
"the proper study of mankind is man."
"the greatest knowledge is ourselves to know."
" an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
"HEALTH LIES AT THE FOUNDATION OF ALL HAPPINESS."
Terms of Admission :
i2}4 cents an evening.
NO POSTPONEMENT ON ACCOUNT OF
THE WEATHER!

8 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
The lecture season with him every year lasted
until about June ist, when, as he expressed himself
to me : "I came home tired out, and so glad to get
home to stay with mother, who would have the house
in perfect order and every thing as sweet as a rose.
And was n't it pleasant in the early dawn to hear the
songs of the birds, and feel the breath of the lovely
June morning wafted through the room."
Well had he earned this quiet rest.
Among the many interesting incidents that were
constantly occurring during his public career was one
peculiarly so from its very strangeness.
One evening, at the Tremont Temple, Boston, the
Doctor noticed in one of the front seats a tall, lank,
awkward-looking young man with a pair of earnest
eyes, intently listening to every word of his lecture.
The Doctor went from that place to Philadelphia,
and on the first night of his lectures in that city,
there, in a front seat, was the same awkward-looking
youth with the earnest eyes ; and so night after
night the Doctor noticed him, and his interest was
awakened. At last, one night after the lecture was over, the
young man presented himself, saying : " I am a
stranger to you, but I have listened to you many
nights with much interest. Now I have mustered
up courage to ask a great favor of you. I want
to go to California. I have no money ; I have not a
relative in the wide world who can help me, and I
wish you would let me have one thousand dollars,
and I solemnly promise not only to return it to you,

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 9
but also to give you an equal share in whatever I
may have the good fortune to make. I feel that I
can accomplish something if I can only reach the
country and make a beginning." The gold fever
was then at its height, which, to some extent, ac
counted for his unwonted enthusiasm and assurance.
The Doctor looked at him as he made this strange
request, and finally said to him : "I am very tired
to-night and cannot talk on the subject, but come
around to my rooms to-morrow and we will talk the
matter over."
The face of that young man was before the Doctor
and in his dreams all night, and when he appeared
the next day something seemed to say: "Do it ;
there are sincerity, truth, and honor stamped on that
face." The Doctor being pre-eminently a practical man,
this conclusion seemed all the more strange. But he
did it.
He drew the check for one thousand dollars, and,
handing it to the young man, said : " This money
represents so much mental toil on my part. I com
menced poor, but I have achieved success. I can
spare this money now. You are a stranger to me.
I leave the matter between you and your Maker. I
can lose it, but I should regret to lose my faith in
you." The young man, with tears in his eyes, took the
paper, saying: "You shall never regret this act if
God spares my life."
The two parted ; the situation was intensely dra-

lO REMINISCENCES .OF DR. WIETING.
matic : the man who had raised himself from poverty
to afifluence, solely by the power of his brain, giving^
freely of his costly savings to this unknown stranger,
who had nought to recommend him but his shy, awk
ward manner, straightforward speech, and a face
whose lineaments seemed to be stamped with the
impress of truth.
Not many months after, the Doctor received a
letter from this young man, stating that he was
making progress, and that he would shortly hear
from him again. As good as his word, ere many-
months more had elapsed, the Doctor received a
check for one thousand dollars. At different times
after this he received other amounts, until the sum
grew to ten thousand dollars. He then wrote to the
young man that he was unwilling to accept more, as
the obligation had been trebly discharged ; but he
received in reply a letter, stating that he considered
it a sacred duty to discharge this obligation according
to the terms of the compact between them, and he felt
that the blessing of God would be withdrawn if he
violated his word.
He then wrote the Doctor, requesting him to ad
vance him twenty thousand dollars more, as he
wished to engage in a wider field of operations.
The good mother of the Doctor said : " Ah ! that is
a scheme to get back all he has given you." His
brothers tried to dissuade him, but between these
two men, the donor and the recipient, there seemed
a bond not of earth, indissoluble, unshaken, almost
beyond human ken.

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. II
The Doctor resolved to advance the money, which
he did ; but receiving no tidings in many months, he
naturally became anxious, as at that time Sims the
Pirate was sailing the seas, capturing vessels with
their rich cargoes.
At last news came ; money began to pour in upon
the Doctor from this loyal debtor, until he was the
recipient of at least fifty thousand dollars. Later on
another letter came stating that the Doctor would
hear from him again, but weeks grew into months,
months into years, and no letter came ; no tidings
were ever received afterward of this faithful soul.
Years have passed — yes, almost a lifetime — since
then. His life-work must have been finished long ago,
and probably none, save Dr. Wieting and the few
friends to whom he related this wonderful story, ever
knew of this man's matchless fealty to his honor,
unwavering through so many years. It is almost in
comprehensible, and almost without parallel.

CHAPTER II.
Leaves the Lecture Field in the Height of Success — Burning of the Wieting
Block — Failing Health — Decides upon a Tour round the World — Across
the Continent — California, the Land of Big Trees, Big Stories, Big For
tunes, and Big-Hearted People.
At about the age of forty-five Dr. Wieting left the
lecture field, although in the height of his success.
But the labors were arduous, the life toilsome, and
had already been continued for over twenty years,
for this young man placed himself on the platform
at an age almost unparalleled in the annals of mod
ern history ; in fact, from childhood up he had been
compelled to carry burdens upon his young shoulders
which many an older person would have found too
weighty. This tax upon his youthful strength was
felt in later years, and he needed rest.
Since the year 1850 he had been the owner of the
property at the corner of Salina and Water streets
in the city of Syracuse, thereafter known as the
Wieting Block. This was twice destroyed by fire,
and twice rebuilt. The first fire occurred January 7,
1856, at which time the Doctor was lecturing in Bos
ton. The dispatch containing the news of the de
struction of his block was handed him just before
the time for opening his lecture. He read it, walked
calmly on to the platform, and delivered his lecture,

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 13
showing his admirable self-control ; and it was his
boast that in the twenty years and more of his public
life he never disappointed an audience or kept one
waiting. This block contained the Wieting Hall — famous
for being the scene of so many important political
gatherings, both State and National.
This was rebuilt in one hundred days from the
time of its destruction, on an enlarged and improved
scale, and contained another Wieting Hall, on a far
grander plan, better adapted to the modern stage,
and known by the more pretentious name of Wieting
Opera House. For a quarter of a century its walls
have resounded to the music of the finest operas,
have echoed the tones of the most popular orators of
the time, and its stage has been the familiar play
ground of the greatest of living actors.
The block was one of the most prominent land
marks of the city, and one could scarcely fail daily to
see the figure of the genial Doctor somewhere about
the premises. In all kinds of weather he would be
found on the sidewalk in front of the block, holding
impromptu levees ; for his appearance was the signal
for a general gathering of his friends, and they might
be seen in little knots gathered about him, and often
the air would resound with his hearty laugh — for he
was the soul of good humor. He never did any
thing by halves, and his laugh was as hearty as the
grasp of his hand. But one night the fire-bell sounded
its ominous call ; the red glare flooded the sky ; the
flames shot out in all directions from the beautiful

14 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Structure, wrapping themselves about it, shooting
forth red and angry tongues. The city was in a
tumult, and from lip to lip went the cry — The Wiet
ing Block is on fire !
Again with calm exterior Dr. Wieting witnessed
the total destruction of this splendid structure — the
fruits of the toil of so many years. But though now
with impaired health, his indomitable courage, perse
verance, and energy came to the rescue, and once
more, Phcenix-like, the block rose from its ashes, in
added beauty and grandeur. This last fire occurred
on the night of July 19, 1881.
The block and opera house as rebuilt are now
separate structures, the opera house ranking as one
of the finest in this country. But during many long
weeks while the structure was in process of building,
its founder was laid low upon a bed of sickness. It
was a desperate struggle between Life and Death ;
but a naturally fine constitution triumphed, and once
more the familiar figure of Dr. Wieting was seen on
the streets, watching with renewed pride and interest
the completion of his work. From this time on he
occupied himself principally in looking after his real
estate, in which the bulk of his property was invested.
He was pre-eminently a public-spirited citizen, and
ever foremost in furthering all enterprises for the
material advancement and prosperity of his beloved
Syracuse. He was proud of the city, and her interests
were very near his heart. He was fond of travel, in
which he and his wife indulged to an almost unlimited
extent. After having traveled extensively in the

BURNING OF THE WIETING BLOCK, JULY, 1881.

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 1$
United States, they decided to take a tour round
the world, and on June i, 1875, they left Syracuse,
accompanied by Hon. John M. Francis and wife, of
Troy, N. Y., en route for California ; thence intend
ing to cross the Pacific Ocean into the Old World.
The writer of this book, having been the Doctor's
enthusiastic and much interested companion on this
expedition, takes the liberty of telling the story of
their travels for herself, asking the reader's pardon
for the introduction of the big letter " I," thus render
ing the relation purely narrative and descriptive.
This tour was commenced a few years after the
completion of the great Union Pacific Railroad, for
which the ceremony of breaking ground was enacted
at a point on the Missouri River near Omaha, Ne
braska, on the 5th of November, 1865, and the road
was completed in three years six months and ten days
from that time.
June 22, 1875. We traveled leisurely across the
continent, occupying about two weeks in transit ;
stopping at all points of interest along the route,
also making detours to visit places not on the regular
line. A brief outline of the trip is all I shall attempt
to give.
Chicago to Omaha : across the prairies to Chey
enne, passing through what is called Prairie Dog
City, consisting of some acres of land covered with
little mounds, the houses of the prairie dogs, small
animals about the size of a grey squirrel, who run into
these mounds at the approach of a train.
Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie County.

1 6 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
There are several fine public buildings here. Chey
enne is famous for its moss agates. The surrounding
land is not much cultivated, it being principally used
for grazing purposes. From Cheyenne to Denver we
pass for miles along prairies, with not a living thing
to break the vision.
Denver is a city of about ten thousand people ;
chiefly built of brick, its citizens full of enthusiasm
for the West and its future. It is really a beautiful
town, with all the features of a prosperous Eastern
city. I experienced a little difficulty in breathing here on
account of the altitude ; it is in most cases rather try
ing to a stranger, but often beneficial after he be
comes acclimated. From a point beyond here —
Golden — a mining town, we begin to ascend the
Rocky Mountains. The road is a narrow gauge, so
that the long train can bend around the shortest
curve, gliding in and out like a serpent. At times
the curve is so abrupt that it seems we are rushing
straight for the edge of the rock, to plunge into the
chasm below. On we speed — across roaring torrents
— under the shadow of huge rocks towering skyward,
whose fantastic forms almost obscure the light of day.
Up, up we go until we attain a height of eight
thousand feet above the level of the sea ; here a little
village has blossomed out in the midst of these barren
rugged rocks, called Central City. It has a popula
tion of six thousand. To our astonishment we find
here shops, law ofifices, fine school buildings, includ
ing a young ladies' seminary, and all the evidences of

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 1/
a prosperous town. This is the centre of the great
gold region of Colorado.
The entrances to the mines yawn black and dismal
at intervals in the solid rock. The air in the mines
is cold but fresh and exhilarating. The miners shovel
out the gold ore into little cars drawn out of the
mines by mules. The ore is first crushed, then put
in smelting furnaces, from which it pours out, a red-
hot liquid ; then it is cooled and combined with quick
silver, which separates the gold from the dross, then
put into a crucible, and subjected to heat a second
time, from which it comes out in the form of bars ;
then a machine does the stamping, and it is ready for
transportation. En route to Ogden we pass a town called Sherman,
8,240 feet above the level of the sea; named after
Gen. Sherman, the tallest general in the service.
From Ogden we make an excursion to Salt Lake
City. No living thing can exist in the waters of Salt
Lake. Salt Lake City has a population of about eighteen
thousand. The principal materials used for building
are stone and "adobe," or sun-dried brick. The coun
try is rich in mineral wealth, though much of it is still
undeveloped. The Tabernacle is an immense building, oval in
form, with an arched roof supported by pillars, and
capable of seating eight thousand people. An organ
here, the second in size in America, was built by the
Mormons. We were given opportunity to converse
freely with the women. None of them seem to like

1 8 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
polygamy, but accept it as a part of their religious
duty. The wives are kind to each other, and help
each other when occasion requires. The children are
distinguished by the surname of the mother. Polyg
amy was not originally co-existent with Mormonism,
but was a feature later introduced.
From Ogden it is a two-days' journey across the
Sierra Nevada Mountains to San Francisco, passing
through the alkali region — a barren desert rightly
named "The Great American Desert." Nothing but
clouds of dust, so stifling it almost suffocates us.
California — the El Dorado of the dreamer and the
enthusiast. The land flowing with milk and honey.
The land of big stories, big trees, big fruits, big
fortunes, and big-hearted people.
We are dined and wined by these California mag
nates in princely style. California offers almost every
variety of climate in the world. Within a few hours'
ride by rail one may pass from a region of snow to a
land of flowers. It is the Mecca of the impecunious
Easterner. There is a dash and abandon in California
life in marked contrast to the East. San Francisco
seems in gala attire every day, and the princely mag
nificence of some of the equipages here is astonishing.
We are invited to take a morning drive ; we are called
for with an elegantly appointed carriage drawn by four
horses, gold-plated harness, etc., this being the ordi
nary turnout. It is the whole or nothing ; there
seems to be no medium ; the people are either very
rich or very poor.
The comfortably situated middle classes, which

¦ REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 1 9
form so large a portion of our Eastern communities,
are in the minority here. If a man gets in the way
of making money at all, he makes, as a general thing,
piles of it ; and if he loses, he often loses all at one
fell swoop.
The great Stock Exchange in San Francisco is a
very pandemonium, as though a lunatic asylum had
been turned loose. It is not seldom a man enters here
in the morning a millionaire, and goes hence a beggar.
But this venturesome and reckless spirit is the out
growth of rapidly acquired fortunes. " Quick come —
quick go."
In California we found the eighth wonder of the
world — the far-famed Yosemite Valley. Leaving
San Francisco, a ride of about five hours by rail and
we reach Merced, where we remain over-night, taking
a stage early the next morning for the journey across
the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the valley. Midway
in the journey we stop at a small hotel and make an
excursion to the Big Trees.
There were at this time one hundred and sixty of
these trees ranging from sixty to ninety-seven feet in
circumference, and there were in all six hundred and
fifty of the species known as " redwood," of which all
these big trees are composed.
Many of the largest are designated by names, such
as the "Grizzly Bear," a tree ninety-seven feet in cir
cumference, two hundred and seventy-five feet high ;
the " Fallen Monarch"; the "Faithful Couple," grow
ing together as one until within two thirds of the top,
where they branch out into two distinct trees.

20 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Into the hollow trunk of one we reined our five
horses, and there was room for more ! The remain
der of the journey from here to the Yosemite is
exciting, full of interest and beauty.
When within about five miles of the valley we see
in the distance the hoary-headed rocks guarding the
entrance. As we slowly advance, the road lying on the edge
of a cliff, and one after another I see rising before
me these strange and wonderful emblems of the
Eternal Majesty, my whole nature is awakened to a
feeling of commingled adoration and reverence for
the Creator of all.
On our entrance into the valley we see old El
Capitaine, a rock towering 3,100 feet; at our right.
Sentinel Rock, 3,270 feet high. Cathedral Rock, an
enormous pile, 2,660 feet high ; the Three Brothers,
4,300 feet high; North Dome, 3,726 feet high ; South
Dome, 5,000 feet high.
The valley is ten miles long and about one and a
half miles wide, the Merced River running through
it — a beautiful stream, portions of it as green as an
emerald. Mounting mules or sure-footed mountain
horses, we scramble up the rocky mountain sides,
hundreds of feet above the valley, and watch the wa
ters leaping from heights of a thousand feet or more.
"Bridal Veil Fall," nine hundred and forty feet high is
rightly named — the most graceful thing imaginable ;
it scarcely resembles water as it comes floating down
in gauzy film, now wafted by the breeze far from its
original course, like a veil tossed by the breeze.

REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING. 21
Vernal Falls is a vast sheet of water rushing with the
speed of a shot over an inclined plane of rock to the
edge, over which it tumbles in one stupendous mass
from a height of four hundred feet. Nevada Falls
is seven hundred feet high. It is truly a valley of
wonders.

CHAPTER in.
Good-bye to America — Off for Foreign Lands — Across the Pacific Ocean —
A Day Lost.
On the ist of September we sailed from San Fran
cisco on the magnificent steamer China, bound for
Japan, a voyage of twenty-five days at least.
The entire trip is unmarred by a single storm.
The days glide by, each so like the one preceding, in
its calm, bright beauty, that we almost forget that we
are on the wide ocean.
A sea voyage of this length must necessarily be
monotonous, even with one thousand souls on board
as we have.
One subject we have to puzzle our brains about as we
near the i8oth degree of longitude, west and east of
Greenwich, London, which falls in the middle of the
Pacific Ocean, and that is the theory of losing a day, or
dropping a day out of the calendar, as it were, which
occurs in crossing the Pacific westward bound, or
gaining a day, that is, adding one to the calendar,
which occurs in crossing eastward bound. Leaving
San Francisco, going west, every sixty miles, which is
one degree of latitude, we lose four minutes, because
the world being round the sun rises for us four
minutes later. We continue to lose until we reach
the meridian, when we have lost twelve hours. Now
22

AROUND THE WORLD. 23
a person starting from the other side, coming east,
gains four minutes every sixty miles, that is, the sun
rises for him four minutes earlier ; therefore, when
he reaches the meridian, he has ^azWa^ twelve hours,
and we having lost twelve hours, the day is dropped
out of existence.
The solution of this puzzle is (though perchance
the solution may prove more puzzling than the puz
zle) : if a person should travel round the world in
twenty-four hours, in the same direction, he would
retain the same relative position to the sun, — he would
travel with it, and there would be no succession of
day and night ; so in traveling more leisurely west
ward a certain amount of time is added to each day,
which in making the circuit of the earth would
amount to an entire day. In order, therefore, to
adjust his reckoning to the calendar of the place
which he left, he must at some point in the journey
pass over one day as if he had never lived it, while
in reality he has lived the whole length of time by
lengthening every day in his journey.
The only other event of any importance that
occurs to break the monotony of this long voyage is
the meeting of a homeward-bound steamer. The
Colorado. Scanning the horizon, there seems only a black
speck. Nearer and nearer it draws, until the dim out
lines of a ship are visible. The meeting of these two
ships in mid-ocean is a grand and beautiful sight.
Steadily she moves toward us ; now the prow lifting
itself gracefully out of the water, now dipping down

24 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WEITING.
until only the decks are to be seen. As she approaches
nearer, a boat, with a half-dozen men is lowered, and
is tossed like an egg-shell on the waves. They come
alongside, mails are exchanged, and we drift apart
As we near the coast of Japan we begin to see smaller
birds, land birds, which tell us of land not far away.
Soon the shores of Japan loom up in the distance,
not flat and tame, but boldly beautiful, rising ab
ruptly from the sea ; wooded slope and fertile plain.
Dotted along the coast we see little villages. The
scene now becomes enlivened by the presence of all
sorts of queer-looking water craft, fishing junks,
which glide all about us like so many strange spec
tres, and which tell us, in language plainer than words
can express, that we are far from home, just on the
outskirts of a strange land, which undoubtedly is
teeming with wonderful and novel experiences for us.
We cast anchor amid a host of little boats, big boats,
men-of-war, etc., and a din is set up the like of which I
never had heard. We are obliged to get into these
little boats and row about a half mile, when we land
at the custom-house in a drizzling rain. However,
these boats have an awning and sides, so we are quite
comfortable. The Japanese boatmen are some of
them quite naked except a girdle about the loins ;
others wear a kind of loose skirt. As soon as the
rain comes on, each of these half-naked creatures,
from some hidden recess, draws out a covering made
of straw, a kind of long mantle and covering for the
head. After donning these they looked like walking
haystacks, but I understand they shed the rain nicely.

AROUND THE WORLD. 2$
After making our way through the custom-house we
plod through mud and water to the " hack stand," or,
in other words, to the gin-rick-i-shas, queer little vehi
cles on two wheels, something like a baby-carriage on
an enlarged scale, and drawn by " coolies," a poor
class of Japs, who earn their living in this way.
Each holds but one person, and off we go at a break
neck pace. In spite of the rain and our general
discomfort, we enjoy this novel experience hugely.
The hotel at which we arrive is a very comfortable
one, kept by an Englishman. Supper and lodging
are the two most important events just now to the
four weary " Globe Trotters," as we are dubbed by
the community at large as soon as they set eyes
on us.

CHAPTER IV.

JAPAN.

Yokohama — Gin-rick-i-shas — Preparing Tea for Market — The Land of the.-
Mikado — ^Japanese Temple — Yeddo — The Famous Idol, Dai Butsu.
The country about Yokohama is beautiful ; the
soil is clayey, and every thing grows rapidly.
In our drives we see whole groves of bamboo
trees, the most beautiful tree in Japan, which form a
most picturesque feature in the landscape, the trunk
rising tall, straight, and slender to a considerable
height, and the branches clothed with what seems to
be immense green velvety plumes. There are num
berless little tea-houses scattered along the roads
leading out of the city. Everybody drinks tea here.
They are rustic buildings surrounded by a pretty
bamboo fence ; and we are waited on by two pretty
Japanese girls in the costume of the country, a sort
of loose garment confined at the waist by a girdle.
And, by the way, a vast amount of importance is at
tached to this same girdle ; it is arranged in many
loops behind, bound widely about the waist, and with
the close folds of the garment below, it presents a
similar appearance to the tight fronts and bunched-
up backs of our fashionable city belles.
Their hair is elaborately dressed, with the inevi-
26

AROUND THE WORLD. 27
table skewer behind, and sometimes an artificial rose
or bug at the side. They use a powder made from
the Lotus flower to whiten their faces, and with the
addition of a touch of scarlet to the lip, they are
ready to receive customers.
They immediately prepare the tea by pouring some
boiling water (which is always kept hot by an in
genious arrangement of hot ashes in a pan) on a little
of the tea which they have placed in the cup. They
cover the cup for about two minutes, when it is ready
to serve, which they do on a delicate little salver, to
gether with a dish of cakes and confections. Nobody
here thinks of putting sugar or milk in his tea, and
I must confess to me it seemed rather an insipid
decoction. The cups are about the size of half an eggshell ;
we can easily take all the tea at one swallow ; but we
sit and sip and sip, and laugh and chatter with the
pretty waiters, although it is all dumb show. They
seem very curious regarding our dress and ornaments
— lightly touching them and smiling. Pausing curi
ously one day before a Japanese house, a little woman
makes her appearance, and good-naturedly invites
us to enter, on a tour of inspection. It is a small
frame house with lattice-work entrance, paper parti
tions, sliding-doors of paper, beautiful fine matting
on the floors, for the rooms are almost entirely devoid
of furniture, the family sitting and eating on the
floor, and sleeping there also. They spread down a
blanket, and with a curiously made pillow of wood
hollowed out in the centre, and a light blanket over

28 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
them, they sleep. At one end of these wooden pil
lows is a little drawer, in which is kept the toilet
apparatus : brushes, combs, pigments, etc. Their
cupboards or pantries are little toy arrangements,
about three feet high, filled with tiny cups and
saucers, teapots, etc. ; indeed the whole concern
seems to me like a large toy house, where the chil
dren play at housekeeping.
We visit a large tea manufactory, and witness the
process of converting tea fresh from the fields into a
marketable article. It is brought in bags. We pass
into an immense room, full of what seem like little
furnaces, glowing hot, and on the top of each is a
huge kettle or pan filled with these fresh leaves,
which are undergoing the process of firing. Over
each kettle stands a man or woman stirring with the
hands this mass of leaves, so that none shall burn and
all shall become equally dry. These creatures are
mostly naked, except the loin girdle. The place
is intolerably hot, and as they stir and stir, the per
spiration rolls from their bodies and drops into the
kettle ; not a very appetizing sight certainly ; but,
devotee of " the drink that cheers but not inebriates,"
" where ignorance is bliss 't is folly to be wise."
There are about three hundred persons in the room
at work ; the whole scene forms a distinct picture to
carry away with us. The dim light coming through
the latticed windows, the glowing fires, and the dusky,
naked forms of the workers as their bodies move
simultaneously up and down in quick jerking motion,
all combine to form a scene of curious interest.

AROUND THE WORLD. 29
After the tea is thoroughly dry it is sifted, and
then packed in chests, and is ready for exportation.
There is a large colony of English in Yokohama ;
their residences are chiefly located on the beautiful
bluff overlooking the Bay of Yeddo ; their residences
and grounds are very elegant.
The most interesting excursion we make during
our stay in Yokohama, is to Kamakura, where is the
most wonderful idol in Japan — Dai Butsu. It is a
drive of about twenty miles from Yokohama. We
travel sixteen miles by carriage, and the remainder of
the distance by gin-rick-i-shas. The statue is forty-
four feet high, eighty-seven feet in circumference,
eight and one half feet in length of face, three and
one half feet in length of eyes, six feet in length of
ears, three feet in width of mouth, three and one half
feet in circumference of thumb, thirty-four feet in
diameter of knee. The face wears an expression of
calm repose, and in this respect differs from most of
the idols in Japan ; for they are all most frightful to
look upon, with their distorted features, some with
wide open mouths, disclosing rows of savage-looking
teeth ; some with eyes starting from their sockets.
We all climbed the statue, as that seems to be the
thing for tourists to do, and all six of us took up
our positions in the palms of the folded hands, and
there was room for more.
Hence, one can form some idea of the immense
size of this ancient work of art. Through cloud and
sunshine, calm and tempest, this model of ancient
carving has stood hundreds of years intact. Our

30 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
road homeward lies for about three miles along the
sands, and as the tide is coming in, our little gin-rick-
i-shas get a sprinkling of water. Although the sands
are wet, and it is difficult to make our way, it is en
joyable. There is a fascination in watching the
waves, as each rolls slowly toward us, till it breaks
in thunder on the shore. On the evening of October
5th, a memorable event occurred : an earthquake,
and the first in our experience. We were quietly
sitting in our room, when, with no premonition what
ever, the room began to rock, the furniture to shake,
the chandelier to swing like the pendulum of a clock,
and the whole building seemed loosed from its founda
tions, and about to totter and fall around us. I
started for the open doorway, remembering having
read somewhere that under an arch is said to be the
safest place. The halls were filled with frightened
guests, and there was a general stampede for the
street. However, the phenomena subsided in about
three minutes, and no damage was done.
Yeddo, or Tokio as it is called here, the seat of
government and the residence of the Mikado, is about
an hour by rail from Yokohama. It presents very
much the same appearance as the latter city, only it
is much dirtier.
For miles the streets are lined with queer little
shops, where all kinds of merchandise is spread about
on the floors for sale. The people all live in the rear
of these little shops. The city seems originally to
have been surrounded by fortifications, and the town,
as it increased, seems to have been built around these

AROUND THE WORLD. 3 1
"walls, which then enclosed about 3,000 acres of land,
surrounded by a deep and wide moat. There are
two or three series of these walls, so that if the enemy
should break through one there would be still another
to encounter. Of course, the initiatory step on reach
ing Yeddo, is a call on our Resident Minister, Bing
ham. It seemed like being on American soil once
more when we saw the grand old " Stars and Stripes "
floating above our heads.
We drive through the city to see, but also to be
seen ; and this last is no insignificant part of the pro
gramme, I can assure you ; for in some parts of
this city of over 1,000,000 people the sight of an
European (as we are called) is still enough of a
novelty to call a crowd of natives around us. They
are good-natured and friendly, but seem very curious
with regard to ourselves and our dress.
Above all, Tokio or Yeddo is the city of temples,
which loom up in all directions. The Temple of
Shiba — an immense structure — was burned in 1873
by the enemies of Buddhism. The accessory build
ings only are left standing, and even these overwhelm
us by their magnificence. The ornamentations are
all in bronze, gold, and silver, and the woodwork
carved in the most exquisite manner. The floors are
inlaid, and some parts lacquered, and are polished
like a mirror. It is sacrilege to enter with the shoes
on the feet ; in fact, scarcely a house in Japan is
entered without slipping the feet out of the sandals.
It seemed strange at first to see these lines of wooden
or straw shoes lying on the ground. Six of the

32 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
former rulers of Japan are buried in this temple. The
Temple of Asakusa is the most popular temple in
Japan. We approach through a stone-paved avenue
lined with all sorts of toy-shops and booths.
On each side the immense gateway is a colossal
god or demon. To one of these, people who have
sore feet make votive offerings of straw sandals to
propitiate him, that he may defend their steps.
Scores of these sandals are hanging to the railing en
closing this god. The pigeon is considered a sacred
bird in Japan, and here in these temple grounds we
see hundreds of them flitting about unharmed, and '
so tame they will eat from one's hand. Old women
have little dishes of rice and peas to sell to the wor
shippers, who cast it to these sacred birds as an act
of piety. Entering the temple, a little to the right
of the altar, is an image of Binzuru, one of the dis
ciples of Buddha. With regard to this statue, we
notice that the face is rubbed perfectly smooth and
flat; no feature is at all discernible. In fact, the dif
ferent parts of the statue are rubbed so that they are
out of all proportion. These poor benighted crea
tures believe that, if they are afflicted in any portion of
the body, by coming here and rubbing the correspond
ing part of the statue they will be healed. While we
were standing there, an old woman, who was blind,
came up and began religiously rubbing her hand over
the eyes of the statue. Then passing it over her own
sightless eyes, she walked away comforted. We saw
some wonderful exhibitions of the ingenuity and
genius of the Japanese, — images and pictures made
of straw ; also images made of different kinds of crock-

o

AROUND THE WORLD. 33
ery — a limb made of a vase, with a smaller one inserted
into the mouth of that, for a foot, the whole costume
and figure exactly simulated by different-shaped and
colored plates. It was the queerest sight imaginable.
Leaving Yokohama by steamer New York, owned
by the Japanese, but officered by Americans, en route
for Shanghai, China, we pass through the inland sea
of Japan. Scattered all through this sea are islands —
each a picture in itself, — all beautifully wooded, and
many of them in a high state of cultivation. There
are three hundred of these islands ; that is to say,
that number may be counted on the course we are
following. The day is lovely ; a bright sun is shining ;
the sea is literally like a sea of molten glass. We sit
on the deck till the sunset tints begin to come, when
the whole scene becomes resplendent. We cast anchor
in the harbor of Nagasaki, Japan, after a six-days' voy
age ; remained here a few hours, where we take our
last view of Japanese shores. This was the first port
which foreign ships were allowed to enter in Japan.
A few miles out to sea, before entering this port,
we saw the island Pappenburg, from whose cliffs four
thousand Christians were thrown into the sea. They
were mostly converted natives. The rulers were
afraid of the Christian religion, thinking it might
ultimately produce a change in their government and
open their ports to foreign commerce. But they are
beyond all that now, and welcome the stranger to
their shores, welcome innovations of all sorts, adapt
themselves readily to new customs, and are foremost
in the march of improvement among all these far-
distant nations.

CHAPTER V.

CHINA.

The Coffins of the Dead — Sights and Scenes in Shanghai — Hong Kong —
Punkahs — Sedan Chairs.
Leaving Nagasaki, a two-days' sail, and we enter
the Yellow Sea. The first indication of it is the yel
low, muddy appearance of the water, caused by the
sandy soil being washed down. Sometimes this
color has been noticed two hundred miles from land.
Entering the Whangpoa River we have our first view
of Chinese shores ; they seem to be flat, and look
swampy, but every thing is green.
We saw some land which was being ploughed with
one ox and a queer-looking plough ; but strangest
of all is the sight of the coffins of the dead scattered
along the shores as far as one can see. This is the
way the dead are buried here. The coffins are sev
eral inches thick, and are placed on the surface of the
ground, sometimes covered with straw, sometimes
with earth, sometimes left uncovered ; but in this
latter case it is generally on account of the poverty
of the friends of the deceased.
Ploughing and planting goes right on around them.
One would naturally suppose that the presence of
these decaying bodies would impregnate the air with
34

AROUND THE WORLD. 35
foul odors, but it is said that it is not so, for the coffins
are of immense thickness and air-tight. Entering the
harbor of Shanghai, we experience the same scenes of
wild gesticulation, hoots and howls, as when we landed
in Japan. The boatmen seem to be a little better
clad than the Japanese, but, with the exception of the
long pigtail, look very much like them. There is but
one hotel in the city at all comfortable, and as that is
crowded to overflowing, we conclude to remain on
board the steamer, as she is to lie at the dock one
week. During our stay the captain's table is provided
with every luxury possible. Shanghai is a city of
about 800,000 inhabitants. They have a very curious
way of taking the census, as indeed they have of
doing almost every thing here. They appoint men
who have each a certain number of families to ac
count for, and in this way once in a very long period
of time the number of inhabitants is ascertained ap
proximately. Shanghai is a walled city. The gates of the city
are of immense thickness, and the approaches very
dirty. On the walls at the entrance are posted, as
fast as they are issued, all the proclamations and
enactments of the officials, — a regular bulletin ; this
being the only means of communicating with the
masses. Passing through the gates, a scene utterly
indescribable opens upon us ; in fact, a very pande
monium. The streets are barely as wide as the side
walks in our own cities, and lined with shops, with all
kinds of curious devices fluttering in the air from the
upper windows. I suppose these are business signs

36 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
and advertisements, — but they are all Greek to us.
Occasionally, as we thread our way along this intricate
maze of narrow streets, we meet a sedan chair, its
occupant lolling in apparent indifference, with both
arms on the little square window of the conveyance.
Now we squeeze ourselves as closely as possible
against the shops, to allow a man with a heavy load
on each end of a bamboo pole, to pass. Sometimes
we meet two or more carrying or dragging a heavy
load between them. When engaged in any thing
laborious, these Chinamen, as well as the Japs, emit
strange sounds, like a cry or a groan, with the most
perfect regularity : one giving the sound, and the other
taking up the refrain, as they move through the
streets. This seems to us a useless expenditure of
breath, but it is a characteristic of which it seems
utterly impossible to divest them. Still we move on,
till we seem hopelessly lost in this labyrinth. Stretch
ing in every direction run these apparently endless
streets. We are obliged to look sharp, or we shall
be run over by men carrying all sorts of burdens.
We see them with pails running over with dirty-look
ing stuff, strung at each end of a long pole. We pass
a procession, headed by a stately mandarin in his
chair, all covered with gold and scarlet, and borne
by four Chinamen in uniform, followed by his retain
ers, some on foot and some in chairs. We also meet
a very primitive mode of conveyance, and one which
John Chinaman sticks to through thick and thin ; 1
refer to the wheelbarrow. Instead of the box on top,
as with us, there is a little seat on each side the

o

0-O

AROUND THE WORLD. 37
wheel, with an arm coming up between, and over the
wheel ; then a rope like a stirrup is fixed for one
foot to rest in. They hold on by means of this arm,
which also serves as a sort of support. So they move
through the streets ; a lusty muscular Chinaman
wheeling generally two persons, and sometimes a
whole family, who seem to stick to this machine by
some force of attraction which we don't understand.
The Chinese jails front close on the street, shut
out from it simply by bars, through which these
strange creatures peer at us, thrusting their hands
through the bars for money. Their imprisonment is
for a certain length of time, according to the magni
tude of the offence. We see also a pen, for I can
call it nothing else, where are two or three men " in
cangue " — a mode of punishment. A large round
board has a hole cut in the middle large enough
for the head to pass through, then the man is
chained to a post. We saw one poor wretch who
had been undergoing this punishment for a number
of days, and his thin, haggard face was pitiable to
behold. The different modes of torture are still
practised here to a great extent. In the mixed court
a culprit was brought in, and three hundred blows
administered. The blood spurted out in jets, but the
poor wretch scarcely uttered a groan till at the last.
Dr. Yates, a missionary, who has been established
here for more than twenty years, invited us to visit
one of his churches. He preaches to a large congre
gation of Chinese. The scene was very impressive :
these dusky faces all lighted with earnestness and

38 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
intelligence as they turned to their pastor, preaching
to them the Word of God in their own wild, weird
tongue. After the services, all joined in singing
" Rock of Ages " in their own language, but as the
old familiar air greeted our ears, as sung by these
harsh, discordant voices, tears sprang unbidden to
the eyes. At the conclusion of the services. Dr.
Yates baptized a half-dozen women, and admitted
them to the Church.
Visiting the public gardens one day, we saw a
Chinese woman, employed as nurse to some Eng
lish children, whose little feet were a great curi
osity to us. Finding that she could speak a little
English, we made her understand that we wanted
to see her foot. She kindly removed the shoe,
and the long white bandage wound round the foot
and ankle in the place of a stocking, and I saw the
Chinese foot. The big toe forms the end of the
foot, the others having all been bent round under the
foot in early infancy and tightly bandaged, so that in
adult years these toes are all in a dwarfed mass under
the ball of the foot. We could see the toes distinct
from each other, it is true, — but all shrivelled and
apparently dead. What a strange and abominable
practice ! The women hobbling around, scarcely
able to stand on these poor little appendages. The
more aristocratic the family — the smaller the feet.
In fact it is a mark of high birth among the women to
be possessed of small feet. The Chinese babies look
comical enough with their little shorn heads, covered
with gewgaws that jingle like bells every time they

AROUND THE WORLD. 39
stir. I should think the little heads would ache,
carrying so much weight and noise about ; but Dame
Fashion is as much of an autocrat here as in our own
more favored country.
The drives in every direction are pleasant ; the
roads are all macadamized, but the scenery is tame
compared with the wild and constantly varying
scenery of Japan. The country stretches out as
far as we can see — one broad plain, dotted over with
little clumps of trees ; in some places a little undu
lating. But it is a welcome relief to be once more
outside the walls, in the open country, and we draw
a long breath again. The sights and smells are
enough to daunt the most courageous here. There
is no sewerage — no street-cleaning — no sanitary laws
or regulations of any kind. The only wonder is, how
they all live. But, like that fungus of our own coun
try, the children born and bred In the gutter, these
people are born and bred amid all this filth, and it
being their normal condition, they thrive In it.
From Shanghai a voyage of four days brings us to
Hong Kong.
Hong Kong is situated on the side of a mountain ;
the streets are very steep. It has a population of
160,000 people, composed largely of English. It is
controlled by an English governor. We find a very
good French hotel here, and after dinner we go
out on the spacious, cool stone-paved veranda, and,
lounging in the light reclining chairs, look about
us into the star-lit night. The cool, soft breeze fans
our faces ; the sweet twitterings of innumerable

40 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
strange birds in the green thickets below us, the
lights gleaming from the windows of the foreign
residences up the hill-side, the dusky white-clad na
tive boys at their posts pulling the punkahs, or long
fans stretched across the ceiling, — all tend to lull us
into a strange repose.
After all, life in these hot climates is not so un
bearable as we had supposed. True, the sun is hot
outside, but once within the thick walls of these
luxurious homes, with their broad-roofed verandas
and green screens to make the place full of cool
shadows ; punkahs everywhere — when you go to
bed and when you get up, when you eat and when
you sit doing nothing — kept in motion by invisible
hands ; cool iced drinks when you feel inclined ; — with
all these concomitants of luxury there is a sense of
restfulness very agreeable to a weary " G. T." Pun
kahs are long fans attached to a pole reaching the
length of the ceiling, and kept in motion by means of
ropes, which are pulled at each end by native boys.
One day after " tiffin," a lunch which is served in the
middle of the day, we all take sedan chairs for a visit
to the highest mountain near Hong Kong, called
"The Peak." On the summit of this mountain
several of the foreign officials have their summer
residences. We are invited to dine with the Lord
Chief Justice — Sir John Smale. We are received and
entertained with true English hospitality, and about
lo P.M. we bid our host and hostess good-night, and
commence the descent of the mountain, which proves
very novel and interesting. We each have a lantern

AROUND THE WORLD. 4'
attached to our sedan chair, and the procession wind
ing down the mountain, the lights gleaming along
the narrow pathway, the myriad lights of the city
below us, the harbor filled with boats of all shapes
and sizes, each bearing a colored signal light, — all
combine to render the scene beautiful and like a
vision of the " Arabian Nights."
An invitation to dine at the American Consul's is
preceded by a delightful drive to " Happy Valley,"
about four miles distant from the city ; also to the
public garden, where we hear the English band play
selections from Faust and various other familiar operas.
It almost makes me homesick to listen to that beauti
ful air, " The Heart Bowed Down," — Campbell's fav
orite, which he used to sing as no one ever sung
before him. We find the Consul's residence a perfect
bower of flowers, in honor of the occasion. Such a
profusion would be considered a reckless extravagance
with us, but here in the " Flowery Land," 'neath the
glowing sun of the tropics, flowers are everywhere.

CHAPTER VI.
CHINA. — {Continued.^
Canton — Opium Smuggling — Isle of Shamen — Temples — Bird's-Nest Soup —
Characteristics of John Chinaman.
We leave Hong Kong for Canton, a distance of
ninety miles up the Pearl River. The scenery along
the coast is not very interesting, but as we near the
Whangpoa River it becomes more picturesque. We
see large fields of rice, and pass among innumerable
fishing-boats and junks of all kinds, with their wild,
piratical-looking crews. It is said that all these boat
men are pirates If they get the opportunity, and our
little boat seems to be on the defensive, with its
stacks of loaded fire-arms dotted about the deck.
Occasionally we see a tall Chinese pagoda six or
seven stories high, generally white. There is one
striking feature of these pagodas. Each story is de
fined by a narrow railing extending around the
tower, and on most of these railings or projections
grow green shrubs and foliage of all kinds. The soil
is blown there by the wind in the form of dust, and
gradually a bed is formed for the sprouting of the
seeds which birds deposit in their flight. The effect
is exceedingly pretty of these tall white towers, sur-
42

AROUND THE WORLD. 43
rounded at regular intervals by a belt of living green.
As we near the city we see occasionally high squarely
built buildings full of small windows ; these are fire
look-outs. Men are stationed in them at all times of
day and night, to watch for the breaking out of fires.
In the harbor we find ourselves in the midst of an
immense forest of water-craft, each one swarming
with people. Many of these are the permanent
homes of the Chinamen ; children are born, live, and
die on these boats without ever going on the land.
The women of these boats do a large share of the
work, and it is not an uncommon sight to see a
woman rowing a boat, with a baby strapped to her
back, to whom she pays not the slightest attention,
knowing that it Is securely strapped and cannot get
away. If the baby sets up a howl, It is only noticed
as so much added to the general unearthly din per
vading the whole scene. Just here we see a little
smuggling going on. We notice two or three small
boats coming close alongside of our steamer, and
from amongst our cargo are thrown out several small
bags, which are quickly hooked up by these boatmen,
and they start for shore. On inquiry we find these
bags contain opium, and they are being smuggled
into the city to avoid the custom-house duties, which
are very heavy ; the duty on some of these bags
would be about fifty dollars.
There is no hotel at Canton where a lady can be made
at all comfortable ; but there is a foreign settlement here,
on an island called Shamen — a beautiful island, kept
with the utmost neatness and order. Here strangers

44 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
who come properly introduced are hospitably welcomed.
The residents are mostly wealthy foreign merchants or
wholesale dealers ; and they live like princes. Each
owns an immense establishment, a portion of which
is devoted to his business, and the rest serves as a
home for himself and family, if so be that he has
one. This establishment is carried on in a sumptuous
manner ; we revel in luxury ; there are wide cool
verandas, where in luxurious easy-chairs we can
while away the hours of early morning or evening ;
an airy, elegant dining-room, where by the aid of
the delightful breeze wafted from the punkahs over
our heads, we manage to make a very comfortable
meal from all the luxuries of this country — bird's-
nest soup included. This last article of food is a
luxury within the reach of only the very wealthy
people. They are real nests, composed of a gelatinous
mass, secreted by a kind of swallow, which is exuded
from its mouth, and deposited in out-of-the-way
places, difficult of access, which, together with the
comparatively small number found, makes them of so
much value. Some say it is formed of a sort of sea-
foam which the swallow gathers. These nests are
found chiefly in the island of Java, and cost from
thirty to forty dollars per pound.
Canton is a city of about i,5oo,ooo inhabitants, of
which 300,000 maybe called the floating population, or
those who live on the boats. In appearance it is very
much like other Chinese cities, except that there is an
air of wealth and gorgeousness pervading the shops, and
a careless, sans-souci air about the merchants sitting

CO

Xo

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AROUND THE WORLD. 45
therein which we have not noticed in other Chinese
cities. As a nation the Chinese are exceedingly skil
ful, and in their handiwork very deft and artistic.
They execute carvings in ivory, in which they surpass
the world. On one ivory brooch we saw exquisitely
carved an entire theatrical scene, with the stage, the
actors, men and women, each distinct and lifelike, a
perfect representation ; and all this on an oval brooch
not over one and a half inches in diameter. The
birds of the air are also called into requisition for the
manufacture of jewelry. There Is a species of bird
called the kingfisher, whose plumage is something
of the peculiar color of our peacock, and of these
feathers they manufacture beautiful jewelry. We
visit a silk-weaving shop, where the silk is woven by
hand. There are two men at work manufacturing a
beautiful article of brocaded silk. These men earn
from forty to fifty cents per day.
Let our workmen think of that as they grumble
over their abundant salaries in this country.
At a glass factory we see them blowing glass in
the form of immense jars, and then cutting it into
sections and flattening the convex surface by fire.
We also see them grinding wheat with heavy stones,
which are turned round and round by blindfolded
buffaloes. This bran is afterward sifted by hand.
This seems to us, compared to our steam-power
machinery, a very slow and laborious process ; but
the Chinese do not adapt themselves readily to inno
vations, and all kinds of manufacturing are carried

46 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
on in this same small scale. But with this vast coun
try swarming with its millions of people, is it strange
that they should be loth to introduce new systems of
labor ? What would become of this mass of people,
which are almost as the sands of the sea for multi
tude, if machinery was introduced for the different
branches of industry, as with us ? Millions of people
would be thrown out of employment.
As we pass through the streets we encounter sev
eral processions of blind beggars, each hanging to
the skirt of the other's gown, and headed by a little
girl who is leading them. Miserable-looking creatures
in rags ! This is a regular profession, and the money
thus obtained Is put into a general fund from which
all draw.
Later we encounter a wedding procession — very
long — composed of all sorts of representations in
gilding : groups of boys blowing horns, groups of
girls playing on some stringed instrument, but no
living human being for whom all this pomp and
parade are made, except the bride herself, who is in
the last gilded sedan, tightly closed from. public view.
She is now on her way to her husband's house, and
it is probable that she has never seen him before, as
it is the exception when an acquaintance is formed
previous to marriage.
There are also shops where meat is sold ; and here
we see dog-meat hung up for sale, and cat-meat cut
into thin strips ready for sale. While we were stand
ing there the cook came along, took up the dish piled
high with cat-meat, and threw it into a large frying-

AROUND THE WORLD. 47
pan filled with hot lard. As the fumes of the cooking
mass greeted our nostrils, we turned and departed.
More than that, they do eat rats here, but they had sold
out that day, it being rather late.
Opium smoking is largely indulged in here, as well
as in Japan.
Before leaving Canton we must see all the temples,
of course, though one is almost the exact counterpart
of another. But as in Europe tourists run wild over
the Madonna, and are never satisfied so long as one
remains they have not seen, so we, in traveling through
these Eastern countries, are constantly making long
pilgrimages to these different temples, and never cry,
enough. The temple of the " Five Hundred Gods "
is an immense structure, covering acres of ground.
There are two immense idols or gods just outside the
entrance to the inner sanctuary, but the doors of this
Holy of Holies are closed against us, for the five
hundred gods inside are undergoing rejuvenation, in
other words, regilding. This temple consists of sev
eral buildings quite a distance apart. The interven
ing spaces are beautifully ornamented gardens, with
fountains, miniature lakes, etc. The windows of this
temple are in little diamond-shaped panes, but, in
stead of glass, they are composed of oyster-shells pre
pared in some way so that they are semi-transparent.
The Temple of Longevity is of peculiar interest.
Here we see the " God of Longevity," whose atti
tude, physiognomy, and the tout ensemble bring
" Bacchus " vivedly to mind. Fat and jolly, in a loun-
:ging, care-for-nothing attitude, with a rollicking expres-

48 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
sion of countenance, he looks the personification of
good-nature. The temple seems a perfect forest of
ribbons, or long, narrow strips of silk of different
colors and different lengths, suspended from above ;
each one of these strips belongs to a separate family.
The longer the purse, the longer the ribbon — the
longer the ribbon, the longer the life ; at least that is
the accepted belief.
Each of these strips is supposed to indicate the
length of life of each family. The people pay money
to the priest in order that he may secure from this
god, health and long life for them, and as proof posi
tive that the god has granted this petition, these long
strips are hung up. O Money ! Thou all-potent
magician, in heathendom as well as Christendom !
Service is held here daily, and an immense bell,
four hundred years old, calls the people together.
During our visit a woman enters, and kneeling
before this god, makes her petition. As she makes
each petition, she takes what seem to be two small,
peculiarly shaped stones from the altar, and drops
them on the floor ; they each have a flat and a round
side. The petition is supposed to be granted or not
according to the manner in which the stones lie on
the floor : if one round side is upward and the other
downward, it is supposed to be favorable ; if both
round surfaces fall upward, the answer is supposed to
be unfavorable.
China is the most ancient and largest empire in
the world, containing a population of three or four
hundred millions. A self-contained, egotistical peo-

AROUND THE WORLD. 49
pie ; strictly adhering to the ancient customs, which
have been handed down from generation to genera
tion, both socially, morally, and politically ; maintain
ing a stolid indifference to the rest of the world, they
seem almost the exact opposites of the bright, inquisi
tive, cheerful, polite, and Imitative Japs.
But the motto of the tourist is ever " Onward."
We look our last on China, and once more the sea
carries us on, with our faces set towards India.

CHAPTER VII.
EN VOYAGE.
The Typhoon — Singapore, i " i8 ' above the Equator — Ceylon — Point de
Galle to Bombay, India.
On board the French steamer "Ava," in the China
Sea. — After being a few hours out the sea becomes
very rough, and we find it almost impossible to keep
our footing. At dinner the plates go sliding round
promiscuously, and at every lurch of the ship crash
goes a tray of crockery ! The waiters do not fairly
place a dish on the table before it slides off on the
floor. Confusion and laughter reign supreme, for
everybody seems inclined to make the most and the
best of the situation.
Men who are accustomed to sea-life pitch about
here and there. The sea is in a foam, and, every
moment, grows more threatening. The great waves
follow in our wake, one after another, gaining in
might and fury as they sweep nearer, towering higher
than the ship, black and threatening, with snowy
crests. For the moment it seems inevitable that
each, as it rushes onward, must break over us ; but
on we speed, and the great billows break and mingle
with the stormy sea below them. As night ap
proaches the roar of the sea increases ; the mighty
50

AROUND THE WORLD. 5'
waves, as they beat against our gallant ship, sound
like the booming of cannon. Rjght royally she rises
on the angry crest of the billow, and majestically
proves herself victor. In trying to reach my state
room I am thrown headlong ; the truth forces itself
upon us — we are in a typhoon ! Soon a tremendous
wave breaks over the main deck and comes pouring
down into the cabin. This wave is followed by
others equally furious, till the water stands three
inches deep In the cabin and many of the state
rooms are flooded. It became necessary to close the
hatchways, making it very close in the state-rooms.
I lie tossing like a foot-ball in my berth all night,
listening to the roar of the storm without, and as I
feel the great ship throbbing from stem to stern in
her struggle with the waves, the thought of our im
minent danger almost overpowers me. Looking out
from the port in my state-room, nothing meets my
eyes but a huge green wall of waters higher than I
can see. We seem engulfed in the boiling mass.
But the Great Father, who holds us in the hollow of
his hand, brings us safely out, with no sacrifice of life
or limb. The scene that meets our eyes on the follow
ing morning only seems to remind us of the immi
nent peril which we have encountered. The deck is
covered with broken spars, pieces of rope, iron
fastenings wrenched and twisted out of shape. All
our sail was carried away by the gale, and the awning
torn to ribbons. A portion of the guard-rail was
broken, and one of the life-boats snapped from its
fastenings and swept away. Several sailors were

52 REMINISENCES OF DR. WIETING.
severely injured. The sea is black as ink, although
it is rapidly going down. The captain says we did
not encounter the full force of the typhoon, as he
changed the course of his vessel in the night, so that
we escaped a part of it. For many days after, we
bear strong testimony to the violence of the storm, in
the shape of a general lameness and soreness from
our constant struggle, during those fearful hours, to.
preserve our equilibrium. We are now off the coast of
Cochin China, just entering the Saigon River. Cochin
China belongs to France now. But few Europeans
live here, as the weather is so hot as to be unbearable.
The soil is very productive ; spices, rice, and cotton
are raised in abundance. As we approach the equa
tor the air becomes so oppressive that existence seems
almost a burden, without the aid of the punkahs,
which are kept constantly in motion. The shores
along the Saigon River glow with the rich green of
these tropical regions, interspersed with magnificent
scarlet blossoms, one of which I go ashore and pluck
for my herbarium, at the imminent risk of being
sun-struck. We land at the city of Saigon, where we
remain for a few hours. It is the principal city and
port in Cochin China. There is no American repre
sentative here. A two-days' journey from Saigon,
and we reach Singapore, where the vessel is to
remain twenty-four hours. We find very comfortable
quarters at the Hotel de I'Europe. It is an immense
establishment,' situated in the midst of beautiful
grounds. Our rooms are in one end of the grounds,
and we go to dine in the other. Singapore is an

AROUND THE WORLD. 53
island, about fourteen miles one way and twenty-four
the other, only i ° 1 8 ' above the equator — nearer it
than we shall probably ever be again ; but in spite of
the intense heat there is a delightful breeze from the
sea, which makes it very comfortable. There is not
much variation in temperature here the year round.
It is one eternal summer. Singapore has a popula
tion of 100,000, a large portion of them Chinese,
10,000 Malays, and the rest a mixture of almost
every nation on the face of the earth (Americans
excepted). The city is under control of the English.
They encourage the Chinamen to come here, as they
are an industrious people, and are very useful in
developing the country.
Taking a " garry," as the carriages are called,
holding four persons, and drawn by a little bit of a
horse, driven by a native who sits on the thills, we
visit the public garden, also the Whampoa Gardens,
belonging to a wealthy Chinaman. It has been rain
ing all the morning, but travelers and sightseers
must not stop for wind or weather. But in these hot
countries a rainy day is divested of all its disagreea
ble features, and to us in our parched and heated
state it seems a positive luxury. This garden is a
most curious place. It encloses fifty or more acres,
all most elaborately laid out. The Chinese are very
expert in the training of plants and trees. They
cause them to grow in every conceivable shape, in
the form of human beings, animals, buildings, etc.
There is one group of plants trimmed and growing
in the exact form of a deer, antlers and all, and all

54 REMINISENCES OF DR. WIETING.
one mass of tiny white blossoms. Another, a little
coupe drawn by a pony, is formed of a beautiful green
shrub. Another is a large running shrub in the
shape of a Chinese junk. We see here bananas
growing. The tree is slender, and bears only one
stalk of fruit ; some of these bunches are more than
a yard long. We see tea growing here ; also coffee ;
a clove tree ; nutmegs growing ; also a chocolate
tree, and things innumerable. We neglected to pro
vide ourselves with rubbers, and the ground being
very wet, the Chinaman in attendance gave us
wooden shoes, and in this way we went shuffling
along. Our sleeping apartments are on the ground-floor ;
the walls which constitute the room are built about six
inches from the ground ; this space is entirely open.
The natives crowd curiously around, stretching them
selves on the ground, where they sleep, that they
may not lose the sight of us when we leave our apart
ments in the morning, for we are objects of consider
able curiosity. I fear my sleep will be somewhat
disturbed by visions of snakes, lizards, and all sorts
of creeping things, but closing my mosquito-net
tightly about the little hard iron bed, I prepare to
make the best of it. The natives here are called
Malayans. They are very dark, some with thick
curly black hair ; some of them shave their heads,
but this seems optional. They have very fine figures,
straight as an arrow, lithe and sinewy. The dress
universally worn consists of a long, straight piece of
cloth, sometimes white, sometimes gay plaid, wound

TRAVELER'S PALM, SINGAPORE.

AROUND THE WORLD. 55
round the limbs from the waist down, and confined at
the waist by a bright girdle. The upper part of the
body is entirely nude, except a sort of gay scarf which
is carelessly flung over one shoulder. Some com
plete this dress with a gorgeous turban wound about
the head. The effect of the whole is very striking
and picturesque. Their dark skin gleaming polished
and smooth among the folds of the costume.
There are some handsome structures here built by
the English, but the houses built by the natives are
low, with thatched roofs, mostly without floors, and for
windows, simply places cut in the walls and left open
the year round.
Once more we board the steamer for a five days'
voyage to Point de Galle, on the island of Ceylon.
While In the harbor, dozens of small boats surround
our steamer, the occupants all eagerly looking up to
our deck, watching for the coins that may be thrown
over, when a half-dozen leap from the boats into the
water in search of them, and no matter how small the
piece, they are sure to find it. One boy swam under
the steamer and came out on the other side — all for
a sixpence. We are fairly off, and now shall sail in a northerly
direction, so that probably we shall not find it so
intensely hot. We pass through narrow straits to
enter the main Straits of Malacca, which are about
six hundred miles long. We are in full view of the
island of Sumatra as we pass from the straits into the
Indian Ocean. It is the fourth island in size in the
world.

56 REMINISENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Point de Galle. — We are staying at the Hotel de
I'Europe. It is hot here, and there seems to be a
humidity in the atmosphere, which, together with the
intolerable heat, makes it almost insupportable. As
there is no rose without its thorn — no sun without its
shadow — no pleasure without its foil of pain, — so here
the combined influences of climate, diet, etc., begin
to tell upon us, and we are laid upon beds of sickness
almost immediately upon our arrival. There is much
in this great round globe to see ; but he who ventures
upon an expedition such as ours, takes his life in his
hands, and unless he be possessed of an iron consti
tution, or a gutta-percha one, he cannot expect to
get through "scot-free." The system must succumb
sooner or later, to a greater or less extent.
Day after day we wait on this heathenish island
for the arrival of the English steamer bound for Bom
bay ; for we know full well that to remain here means
death, perhaps for both of us. We have no medical
attendance here ; nothing we can eat, our principal
food consisting of a little rice with " ghee," a sort of
stuff that takes the place of butter, and is made from
the milk of the buffalo cow, and tastes like rancid oil.
We are carried down to the P. and O. steamer more
dead than alive. Every thing is done on board for
our comfort, and there is a real old-fashioned cow on
board ; so there is plenty of fresh milk, which is
about all we can eat. It is very warm in the Arabian
Sea, but we manage to keep quite comfortable on the
deck. A voyage of four days, and we reach Bombay,

AROUND THE WORLD. 57
India, where we find an American physician. Dr.
Doolittle,* who has lived in India for many years,
and has a most extensive and lucrative practice in
Bombay, not only among foreign residents, but also
among the natives. He immediately takes charge of
us. For three weeks we lie hovering between life
and death. But at last — thanks to the mercy of
Divine Providence and the unceasing care of our
good physician — we are upon the convalescent list,
and enabled to enter upon our tour of investigation
through India. * News of his death has since been received.

CHAPTER VIIL

INDIA.

Bombay — Tower of Silence — Distinctions of Caste — Calcutta — Agra — The
Taj— Delhi— Aden, Gulf of Aden— Red Sea — Suez— The Great Desert.
Bombay is really a very beautiful city ; it is situ
ated on an island, — in fact, the island is called Bom
bay, and has several divisions or districts, containing
a population of more than 800,000. A very small
proportion of these are English, about 6,000 or
7,000. There are many distinctive races here ; from China
to Arabia, and from Turkestan to the Malay Islands,
there is scarcely a nation but is represented here.
There is a complicated system of castes or sects
here, and indeed all through India, which is almost
incomprehensible to a foreigner. The most trivial
affairs of daily life are so fenced about with these
prescriptions and /^ascriptions, that it forces a for
eign resident householder to maintain a large estab
lishment, dividing the household duties among numer
ous native servants, which in our own country would
be accomplished by two or three.
We had a little personal experience of this fact, as
58

NAUTCH BUNGALOW, INDIA.

AROUND THE WORLD. 59
it required four servants to put our two rooms in
order every morning.
So rigid are they, that if a man is found engaged in
any employment or occupation which properly be
longs to another caste, he is tabooed at once, losing
sometimes wife and children, and his property be
ing often appropriated by the caste to which he
belongs. The mass of the people here are Hindoos, a term
which includes members of all sects who have adopted
the system of castes and acknowledge the supremacy
of the Brahmins.
Next to the Hindoos, the Parsees hold the most
important position on the island. These are the fire-
worshippers, originally Persians compelled to abandon
Persia and taking refuge in India, where they were
granted a small territory on the coast, called the
Konkan, the condition imposed by the Rajah being
that they should wear the Indian style of dress, and
should not eat the flesh of the ox. They worship
the sun, which they deem to be the emblem of the
Supreme Being. They also worship the stars, and
they may be seen drawn up in long rows on the
shore of the Bay, addressing prayers to the Dog
Star which Is sinking beneath the waves. Above
all, they worship fire, and to this alone they raise
temples, and in these temples the sacred fire is con
stantly kept burning with supplies of the costliest
wood and perfumes.
The Mussulmans form about one third the popula
tion of the island. They are chiefly Arabs.

60 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Bombay ranks as " Queen of Asia." The English
settlement is elegantly built up.
There are many beautiful drives about Bombay,
the principal one being " Malabar Hill." The resi
dences or bungalows of the cr&me de la crhne,
both native and foreign, are supposed to be located
here. On the eastern portion of this hill is situated the
" Tower of Silence," where the Parsees dispose of
their dead. The utmost mystery enshrouds the
Tower or Dakhma, even among the Parsees them
selves, and only the Priests of the Fire ever enter it.
Hidden by a screen of huge trees, the Tower rises
cold and silent. The relatives of the deceased leave
the body at the gates which enclose the grounds ; it
is then taken within the Tower, placed on a grating,
and left to be food for the vultures which hover con
stantly near.
Immediately they swoop down, and do not rise
again till all the flesh has disappeared. In a few
hours nothing remains but the bones. Then they
take their heavy flight to the palms within the en
closure, seldom going beyond the grounds.
The Hindoos burn their dead. On the cremation
grounds the funeral pyre is erected between four
posts, so that while burning it may not give way.
The bier is borne thither by the friends of the
deceased, the chief mourner who is to light the fire
going in advance, carrying an earthen pot containing
the sacred fire.
The body is placed on the pile, and covered with

AROUND THE WORLD. 6 1
small pieces of wood. Then the chief mourner walks
round the pile three times, setting fire to it. The
flame rises rapidly and is augmented by throwing on
oil. In about two hours, the whole is reduced to
ashes. All the mourners throw water on the spot, in the
name of the deceased, and the ceremony is finished.
Stepping out upon our veranda one morning, we
beheld a curious spectacle. The railing was covered
with crows. All the window ledges across the street,
roofs, and all projections were filled with black crows ;
they seemed to be holding a regular caucus. They
are regarded In Bombay as scavengers, as they pick
up the offal everywhere, and are really the sanitary
police of the city.
There is a railway across India from Bombay to
Calcutta, and it is estimated that the British Indian
Government has over five thousand miles of railway
in operation in India.
Calcutta has a large English population, but, un
like Bombay, the natives and the foreigners seem all
crowded together. One crosses squares and streets
magnificently built up, but Immediately the scene
changes to dark muddy lanes, lined with miserable
huts thatched with straw. Bamboo carts drawn by
oxen, and elegant carriages with liveried attendants,
jostle each other in the streets. In the evening,
" The Strand," the fashionable pleasure-ground is
alive with its gayly dressed crowds. Here we see
the elegant carriages of the resident English, and
the more dazzling turn-outs of the wealthy natives.
Calcutta is much more healthful than in former

62 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
times, the term " Black Hole," being now scarcely
ever used in connection with it. The women here
have their ears pierced all around, and hung with
rings, which depend from their noses also.
Agra, another of the principal cities of India, is
famous for its magnificent monuments, among which
is the peerless " Taj." This was built by the reign
ing emperor in the i6th century, as a tomb for his
favorite wife, Muntazi Mahal. It is built of white
marble, the entire exterior being inlaid with mosaics.
The interior is a mass of gems, arranged and blended
in the most exquisite taste. The edifice stands on
a terrace of pink sandstone, and it is called " The
Dream in Marble."
Delhi, for many centuries the capital of the Asiatic
world, is now almost a mass of ruins. The traveler
can spend days here in exploring the ruins belonging
to each successive dynasty. At Cawnpore, a city of
large commercial importance, the English have a
military station of seven thousand men. In fact, all
over India the armed soldiers of England stand
guard. The British flag waves over India, but it
requires constant watchfulness. India is apparently
submissive — but only per force. England, ambitious,
never satisfied England ! Small in herself — but how
she stretches out her arms !
In India we find almost every variety of palm
tree. The mulberry is extensively grown ; also
sandal and ebony trees, banyan, blackwood, tama
rind, and bamboo. India also affords almost every
variety of climate ; while down on the plains the
intense heat is almost unendurable, in the moun-

THE TAJ, AGRA.

AROUND THE WORLD. 63
tains winter prevails. India boasts the highest
mountain peaks in the world, forever wearing their
crowns of snow. The land is full of interest to the
tourist, but he needs a good stock of health who con
templates a tour through the country, for it is
attended with many hardships and privations. First
and foremost, the great red burning sun seemed to be
my greatest dread. That blessed life- and health-
giver in our own country is here transformed into a
thing of terror, from which Caucasians flee as from a
mortal enemy. The natives have an adage which
runs thus : " Only dogs and strangers walk in the
sun." Imperfect and unsatisfactory as our visit to this
country has been, we have spent all the time possi
ble here, and now we leave it, on our way to a new
and strange country — Egypt.
We leave Bombay December 20th, via steamer Ca
thay, a fine English ship. Our next stopping-place
will be Suez. We find it rather warm in the Arabian
Sea, but pleasant. A week's voyage and we anchor for
about eight hours at Aden in the Gulf of Aden, where
we remain long enough to obtain a glimpse of the
town, if town it may be called. It is not in sight from
the steamer, being hidden behind volcanic crags, which
rise on every side, for Aden is purely volcanic. There
is not a vestige of green we can see ; everywhere
nothing but the petrified lava. A novel spectacle.
Natives come crowding on board with ostrich
feathers for sale at enormous prices, but the knowing
ones are reluctant to buy, until just before the
steamer sets sail again, when they can be purchased
at almost any price. On the 28th of December we

64 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
enter the Red Sea. It is very warm, still we do not
experience any of those stifling sensations of which
some travelers speak ; probably owing to the favora
ble time of the year.
We arrived at Suez January ist, where we experi
enced a decided change in the weather, requiring our
heaviest wraps. There is but one hotel here, at
which we remain over-night, leaving early in the
morning for Cairo, by rail, a distance of one hundred
and fifty miles. It is very cold, and everybody feels
compelled to bundle up both head and ears. The
train runs along some distance in full view of the
Suez Canal. In the face of all sorts of obstacles this
work has been pushed on through a period of years
to its completion, forming a direct communication
between the Mediterranean and Red seas. It is the
great connecting link between the East and West.
We traverse the desert for about two thirds of the
way. Occasionally the train halts at a little village
which has sprung up here in the desert, which looks
as bare and brown as the desert itself ; for the little
dwarfed rude clusters of huts are all built of the sand
of the desert, moulded into a kind of brick by the
hand and sun-dried. The people are as begrimed
and dusty as their surroundings. The only bright
ness is the glorious blue overhead, and the vivid sun
light all around.
As we near Cairo the aspect of the country changes.
We see evidences of careful tilling of the soil, and
the change from those arid wastes to the beautiful
green fields is indeed agreeable.

CHAPTER IX.
EGYPT.
Cairo — Temples — Palaces — Inundation of the Nile — Pyramid Field of Egypt
— Sphinx — Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needles.
Cairo may be properly called the city of temples,
there being no less than four hundred mosques here.
Many of them are in ruins, but a large number are In
good repair, and are resorted to daily by the devout
worshippers. The houses are all built with each suc
ceeding story projecting over the one below, so that,
by the time the top Is reached, they almost touch
each other from the opposite sides of the street.
This, of course, makes the streets very dark and
gloomy. In some places there are canopies thrown
across the street from the tops of the houses, roofing
it in completely. This is done in order to make it
cooler. We see water-sellers going about the streets,
with hog-skins filled with water slung across their
backs, sometimes carried on a donkey, and a cup
which they fill for you to drink ; but of course the
Nile aqueduct bringing the water into the city will
gradually supersede this ancient custom. The climate
here is delightful : the air in January being balmy,
yet exhilarating. There is no rain the year round,
except a few showers in the early part of the year, so
65

66 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
that if it were not for the inundation of the Nile,
Egypt would not be possible. But wherever the
Nile waters are made to flow, the desert literally
"buds and blossoms as the rose." The arid wastes,
touched by the healing waters, glow and smile in liv
ing green. Small wonder that the ancient Egyptians
worshipped the river as the gteat giver of good to
them ; poor heathen souls, though cognizant of the
immense benefit accruing to them through this anom
aly In nature, their benighted minds never looked
beyond the creation to the Creator. There is a grand
canal (dry at this time of writing) through which the
water is carried at the rising of the Nile into the
city. The scene along the banks of this canal then
is very impressive ; all sorts of religious ceremonies
and rites are taking place, and a season of rejoicing
reigns. A short distance from Cairo we are shown an
ancient sycamore tree, called the Virgin Tree, under
whose branches the Holy Family are said to have
reposed after their flight into Egypt. It is a splen
did old tree, still showing signs of life, but terribly
mutilated both by the devout and the profane, who
have forgotten alike their piety and their scepticism
in their eagerness to carry away and leave some token
of their visit. It is a long time for one tree to remain
in existence ; still our imagination revels in the
thought that we are perhaps standing, if not under
the self-same tree, at least in the spot where Jesus
himself may have trod when he walked the earth in
earthly guise.

A VIEW ON THE NILE

AROUND THE WORLD. (>7
Among the common people in Egypt the women
all wear a long black cloth or cover, which commences
just below the eyes and reaches to the waist, and oh,
how ugly they look ! but the wealthier class wear in
stead a veil of the thinnest white lace, which seems
only to enhance the charms it does not hide ; this is
a very attractive style of dress.
The streets of Cairo are very narrow and very
crooked, winding in and out "like mites through a
cheese," as one writer expresses it. The public
drinking-fountains are worthy of mention : there are
more than three hundred of them, some large and
elegant specimens of architecture of a peculiar Orir
ental style. Here the people can come at any hour
of the day and get their cup of cold water "without
money and without price." Among the finest of
these fountains are two, one built by the sons of
Mohammed All, and one built by the mother of the
present Khedive. A little to the south of the city
is the sepulchre of Mohammed All and his family,
consisting of a long corridor connecting two cham
bers, each covered by a dome. The Temple of
Mohammed All is a most superb piece of archi
tecture ; it is built in the form of a quadrangle.
Along the four interior sides of this quadrangle runs
a line of columns, richly ornamented, which sustain
an arched roof The square thus enclosed is paved
with great blocks of snowy marble, and we are re
quested to put on cloth overshoes before stepping
into this sacred enclosure. The Temple is built
-entirely of alabaster, and the interior is very rich.

68 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
The floors are covered with thick Turkish rugs, —
there are no seats anywhere about the place.
The worshippers enter, after having bathed in the
fountain, which occupies the centre of the court, and
put their shoes from off their feet, and kneeling,
go through their devotions, touching their foreheads
to the floor before they rise. This Temple is situated
on an elevated and extensive plateau, which is also
paved with marble, and from which point we have a
magnificent view of the city spread out beneath us.
Here we catch our first glimpse of the Pyramids,
clearly outlined against the sky ; also the Nile wind
ing its way in the dim distance.
The Shoobrah Palace was also built by Mohammed
AH, and was left by him to his son Haleem Pasha, but
has since passed into the hands of the present
Khedive. The palace and grounds occupy a space of
eighty acres ; in the grounds we see orange trees sa
heavily laden with fruit that the branches droop to
the ground. Grapes, mandarins, pomegranates, dates,
pears, apples, etc., are seen in endless profusion.
Here we see great flower-beds, each a mass of bloom
in the middle of January. The Khedive's harem
comes to visit this place once a week, en masse, and
here I dare say they unveil their faces when no
human eye is near to profane the spectacle.
The most attractive feature of this palace is the
artificial lake which forms the entire centre of a
square surrounded by an open balcony of carved
marble. In each of the four corners of this balcony
is an apartment fitted up in gorgeous style. One is a.

AROUND THE WORLD. 69
smoking-room, one a billiard-room, and two are
reception-rooms. One chandelier is worthy of special
mention ; it is composed mostly of turquoise and
crystal. There seems to be a reckless extravagance
here in the way of palaces belonging to the royal
family ; each member seems to have two or more.
There are several others in process of erection, all
on a stupendous scale. But kings are not to be
questioned. The Tombs of the Caliphs, dating back to the 14th
century, though fast going to decay, show indica
tions of an elegance of architecture, and a splendor
of decoration, of which Egypt cannot boast to-day.
The immense domes of these various mosques or
tombs are all, or nearly all, in a complete state of
preservation. They are made of stone exquisitely
carved, and of bronze, many of them wrought in so
fine a pattern that it looks like lace-work. There
is something grand in the appearance of these
magnificent domes rising from the midst of the heap
of ruins which once composed the Temple.
A visit to the Pyramids. I have always imagined
this to be a sort of pilgrimage to be made on camels'
backs and on foot, through desert wastes and among
scattered groups of wandering Arabs. But who can
stay the progressive march of civilization ! Think of
it — here in the heart of Egypt, the spot so memora
ble in Bible history, we are comfortably located in an
elegant hotel, fitted up with all the modern improve
ments, looking from our windows nightly, upon
broad avenues brilliantly lighted with gas ; listening to

70 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
the fine band in the public park, playing familiar airs
from the last operas ; the streets filled with elegant
carriages just like those we see in London or New
York. One of these we charter for the day, and
taking our dragoman (an Arab who speaks English
very well) and a good lunch, for it is an all-day
expedition, we set out for the Pyramids. At this time
of the year, January, it is necessary to provide one's
self with warm wraps, for the winds are cold, though
the thermometer is never below 40". The air is like
an elixir to me ; the bright sunshine falls like a beni-
son on our heads. The distance to the Pyramids is
about twelve miles, and after passing the outskirts of
the city we enter a broad, beautiful avenue, built by
the present Khedive, four or five miles in length,
straight as an arrow, bordered its entire length by
acacia trees — a native tree, with foliage as dark as our
evergreens, and bearing a pod similar to our bean
pods, but of a light yellow color. The mingling of
these two colors makes the tree a thing of beauty.
The branches meet and almost interlace overhead,
and the whole avenue seems one vast bower. The
country stretches out in all directions, a dead level,
but these plains are fertile and green, and are dotted
over with the date-palm tree, a tree with no branches,
the trunk shooting up straight and slender, and
bearing aloft its single waving bunch of green.
At short intervals we see little native villages —
clusters of huts built of bricks made of mud and sun-
dried, with a square opening left here and there for a
window, and an opening for a door, which looks like

AROUND THE WORLD. 7 1
the entrance into a cave, it is so dark. The people
are sitting around their doorways, squatting in the
dry mud, apparently as contented as a king on his
throne. They live by working on the land round about.
Sometimes they are hired by rich native land-owners,
and sometimes one of these mud-hut dwellers owns a
large tract of land himself, making his living by
selling the produce.
These mud villages present the strangest appear
ance imaginable. I can think of nothing else but a
cluster of ant-hills, they are so bare and brown.
Here and there on the plains we see long lines of
camels, heavily laden, slowly marching along. As
they approach we see they are carrying such immense
burdens of corn-stalks, or bags of grain, that all that
is visible are the four legs, and the poor patient up
lifted head in the midst of the great pile. Occasion
ally we are greeted by cries of "backsheesh" from
the wandering Arabs — the real traditional Bedouins,
who, from time immemorial, have been wandering
over the face of the earth. They are mostly in rags,
but they wear a smiling face as they greet you, and
it seemed to us that it made very little difference to
them whether you flung coins or curses as you passed
them by. They live in this way the year round, gen
erally having in their possession enough camels to
carry their tents, and the rest of the limited parapher
nalia of their daily lives. Sometimes they have a
cow and two or three donkeys, on which they ride
by turns, living on roasted corn and food they buy

72 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
with the coins tossed to them. At certain seasons
of the year these homeless beggars all go to a large
mosque, where the Khedive furnishes them with food
at his own expense.
Well, picture, if you can, these scenes, with all the
different features, with the yellow sands of the desert
far beyond, forming a setting to the picture, and you
have the surroundings as they greeted our eyes the
entire distance to the Pyramids. Just before we
alight from our carriage, the natives crowd around
with antiquities for sale, and offers of assistance in
scaling the Great Pyramid. As we draw nearer I
am bewildered by the immensity of this structure
called the Great Pyramid, and classed as one of the
seven wonders of the world. The eye can scarcely
take it all in at a glance, and as we stand at the foot,
close against the side, and look up — up — along this
inclined plane of huge blocks of evenly hewn stone,
set like steps, one within the other, till by this regular
mode of concentration toward a given centre, from
the four sides, the sharp apex is formed, which seems
to pierce the blue above, we are lost in a thousand
conjectures as to the how, when, and wherefore of
this sublime structure. It is a question discussed for
years by the learned sages of each succeeding century
through which this mighty monument has stood. Pliny
says : " The largest pyramid is built from stone taken
from the Arabian quarries ; 366,000 men are said to
have been employed twenty years in its construction,
and the three pyramids were all made in sixty-eight
years and four months." Aristagoras, Herodotus,

AROUND THE WORLD. 73
Dionysius, Demetrius, and many other philosophers
and sages have given their opinions to the world, but
none have ever advanced any conclusive evidence as
to the origin of these structures. The first visitor to
Egypt who left any account of his travels was He
rodotus, 2,300 years ago. He says the Great Pyramid
was built during the reign of Cheops, who was a very
wicked man, forbidding the Egyptians to perform
sacrifices, and forcing them all to labor. One hun
dred thousand men were employed and relieved by
an equal number every month during the twenty
years necessary for the completion of this Pyramid.
The great mass of evidence evolved from the opinions
of all these sages and philosophers seems to point to
the conclusion that the Pyramids were originally
intended for tombs ; that, at a certain period of
Egyptian history, it was customary to raise a struc
ture of pyramidal form, varying in size according to
the rank of the owner, over any tomb of any conse
quence ; and the fact that there are some very small
ones, no more than twenty feet high, seems to con
firm this idea. The Pyramid field of Egypt, or that
portion where Pyramids are found, is a large portion
extending over three parts of a degree of latitude.
The number of Pyramids is estimated to be about
one hundred. We saw only those at Cairo. The
ascent of the Great Pyramid is very difficult. The
present height is estimated at 480 feet, 9 inches ;
length of each side, 732 feet. One can grasp some
idea of its height by comparing it with Strasburg
Cathedral tower, the highest in Europe, which is

74 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
only 46 1 feet ; the dome of St. Peter's, at Rome, is
429 feet. Climbing up the outside for a short dis
tance, we see the entrance — a sloping archway, down
which one passes on an inclined plane of stone, with
notches cut in it at regular intervals for the feet.
We cannot stand upright the whole length of this
passage, as, by the aid of my candle (for it is black
ness of darkness inside), it does not seem to be more
than three feet high. At the end of the passage, we
emerge into various large chambers or vaults, but
they contain nothing. It is supposed that they were
robbed, centuries ago, of whatever treasures they
may have held. This entrance is supposed to have
remained a secret for five thousand years, till the
year a.d. 820, when, as Arab writers say, it was
brought to light by the Caliph of that time. Having
heard vague rumors of untold wealth and treasures.
therein, he ordered the engineers to discover an
entrance ; but even at that time they found nothing
in these vast chambers but a stone chest, without a
lid, which had probably been rifled of its contents
long before. The Sphinx.
From the Pyramids we go to the Sphinx — renowned
in history and the classics from time immemorial.
This is not far from the Pyramids, and is located
in an immense bed of sand. The head and neck
only are visible to the traveller of to-day, the rest
being imbedded in the sand ; though early in the
present century excavations made by Caviglia revealed

GREAT PYRAMID AND SPHINX,

AROUND THE WORLD. 75
the complete form of this wonderful creation. But
the clearing away of the sand could never be perma
nent, as it blew and filled in almost as fast as it was
cleared away. It is carved out of solid rock ; the
head measures thirty feet from the forehead to the
bottom of the chin, and fourteen feet across. The
cuts of the Sphinx I had been accustomed to see
in my geography in childhood were so well defined
pictures in my mind that I felt almost familiar with
the spot.
The figure is so mutilated by time and, undoubt
edly, the hand of the sacrilegious traveler, that it is
left almost entirely with the imagination to conceive
the character of the expression. The head appears
very like the Egyptian mummies : the wide wig on
either side, the flat band round the forehead ; the
nose is almost entirely gone. We can readily ima
gine, as we view this wondrous creation, that we are
looking on something that existed long before the
coming of Christ.
If these great speculative eyes had been endowed
with sight ; if these lips, clothed in the majesty of
repose, could but speak to us of what those eyes had
seen — what a pageant would be unfolded to our gaze !
But, dumb and motionless, it tells no tales ; and as
I stand and gaze with an eager and almost insatiable
curiosity upon these matchless features, I seem to be
borne away, back into the dark ages ; imagination
runs riot, and I turn away unsatisfied, as from a
sealed book, whose seal I am forbidden to break.
But the day is gone ; I pick up a few mementos and

76 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
bid a final adieu to the place. I go away wondering
if every visitor leaves the spot as dissatisfied as I, at
not being able to penetrate one of the impenetrable
mysteries. On our return drive, we pass an elegant establish
ment, with two coachmen in glittering uniform and
two outriders, dashing by.
The son of the Viceroy is taking his airing. Five
minutes after we pass a troop of wandering Arabs in
rags. So it is the world over. Prince and peasant,
the king on his throne, and the beggar in his rags, —
all held in the hollow of God's hand.
We leave Cairo en route to Alexandria, Egypt, a
distance of 131 miles by rail.
We pass several small native towns, which all look
alike, built of mud, in mud, and surrounded by mud.
Occasionally in the town, if it be of any size, we see
rising above the bare brown level of the houses, the
dome-like cupola of a Mussulman cemetery, or the
graceful minaret of some temple, but the only green
we see is the little cluster of palms, in the midst of
which these dreary towns are sometimes situated.
The railroad from Cairo to Alexandria is the first
one ever built in the East. It was constructed in
1855, ''•'^d was one of the proposed plans for the
cutting of the Suez Canal across the isthmus.
We stay at a French hotel ; the French language
is universally spoken here. Alexandria presents a
similar appearance to Cairo, and has a population of
200,000. The town is named after Alexander the
Great, who founded the city after his conquest of

AROUND THE WORLD. 77
Syria. He commissioned Dimocrates, the architect,
to lay out the plan, which is in the shape of a Mace
donian mantle. We find here people from all nations,
crowding through the streets together — a heterogene
ous mass. In these far Eastern lands, the men,
women, and children, horses, donkeys, and dogs, all
walk in the middle of the street. The sidewalks are
very narrow, and are generally filled up with various
kinds of merchandise, for the shops in these towns
would scarcely answer for a watchman's sentry-box
at home, and when the little shop runs over the sur
plus is deposited on the walk in front. It Is cold
here, and a good fire would be very acceptable ; but
there is no hotel in Alexandria with fire-places in the
rooms ; they never prepare for very cold weather.
On the streets we often see people carrying little
charcoal braziers strung around their necks, and
hanging down in front ; they hold both hands over
them to keep warm as they walk along.
We visit Pompey's Pillar, supposed to have been
erected in honor of the Emperor Diocletian. We
visit next Cleopatra's needles— one erect, the other
fallen and entirely covered with debris. This last
mentioned has since been removed and brought to our
own country, occupying a prominent place in Central
Park, New York City. But it was a very unwise
expenditure of money, for the material of which it is
composed is being fast disintegrated by the action of
frost, and it has already received one or two coats of
asphaltum, and has been patched up in various ways.
But it belongs to the tropics, and probably will not

78 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
long survive its removal. Such relics are most
interesting and valuable from the local associations ;
torn from their original surroundings, they lose their
interest to a great extent.
These obelisks were originally at Heliopolis, but
were brought to Alexandria in the reign of Tiberius,
and set up in front of the Temple of Csesar, which
the Alexandrians had erected in honor of the emper
or. But with regard to all these monumental relics,
so many different accounts are given that we scarcely
know which to credit.
We also visit the palace and grounds of Mohammed
All. The palace is deserted, and fast going to decay.
The doors are locked, but we walk through the vast
corridors and look through the iron-grated windows,
through which the bright eyes of the harem were
wont to gaze. Alexandria under the Ptolemies and
the Caesars is not the Alexandria of to-day. Noth
ing remains of the ancient city but its ruins and its
name. But now, Europe and civilization is the watchword !
Across the blue Mediterranean lies Italy. Never
again shall we visit these far-distant lands ; it is an
opportunity that occurs but once in a lifetime. We
have had the experience, and the retrospect will be a
never-failing source of interest to us.

CHAPTER X.
ITALY.
Naples — Pompeii — Rome — The Pantheon — St. Peter's — The Vatican.
We take passage on a French steamer bound for
Naples, on the 19th of January, but, on account of
the continued rough weather, the pilot refuses to
leave port ; so we remain on board ship and in port
for three days, when, the sea having become calm, we
steam out of the harbor on the morning of the 22d.
A voyage of three days and we have our first glimpse
of Italian shores. As we enter the Straits of Messina
land is visible on both sides. On one side are the
island of Sicily and Messina city ; on the other, the
shores of Italy dotted with queer little towns and
settlements. The shores are bold, rocky, wholly
without verdure, except an occasional patch of green,
the result of the toil of the mountain laborer.
Occasionally, crowning the height of some rocky
promontory, we see the ruins of an ancient castle
outlined in bold relief We also see Stromboli, an
island in the Mediterranean, rising like a cone out of
the water, with smoke issuing from the top, for it is
volcanic, and for years has never ceased action.
Early in the morning we enter the beautiful harbor
of Naples, rock-bound and castle-crowned.
I have been watching grand old Vesuvius all the
79

8o REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
morning. I saw the wonderful mountain first against
a background of pale gray — the light of the coming
morning. The mountain seemed brown in this light,
and the dense smoke issuing from the crater, inky
black. Soon the sky grew rosy, and then the sun
burst in splendor from behind the mountain. Naples
is the largest city in Italy, containing a population of
415,549; it is magnificently located, lying along the
slope of several hills which surround the harbor.
The streets are all splendidly paved, — not like our
pavements, but great thick squares of stone, set in
diamond form the entire width of the street, and kept
in a" perfect state of cleanliness. These hills on which
the city is built rise very abruptly to the height of
many feet, and are terraced all the way to the top,
and covered with grape-vines. Sometimes the only
way of reaching the houses which stand on the top
seems to be by a broad flight of stone steps which
open up from the street. Everywhere we see orange
and lemon trees loaded with fruit ; we also see peas
in blossom in January. It is now as cold as it ever
is here, but we find the weather delightful.
Some of the Italian peasant women look very
picturesque in their native costumes, consisting of
a dark petticoat, short white daintily-frilled apron,
and snowy muslin kerchief crossed on the breast.
This class of people always go in the streets bare
headed, with their hair dressed very elaborately, and
often powdered, as for a ballroom, although otherwise
they are very poorly clad. They all seem very happy
and free from care, as they sit on the walks in front

AROUND THE WORLD. 01
of their little homes or shops, knitting or sewing,
humming gay snatches of their sweet native melo
dies. We enter our hotel through an arched gateway
into an open court. A concierge, or hall porter,
always waits at the entrance. This is a busy, noisy,
bustling city ; the animated crowds of people in the
streets gayly talking and laughing, the sweet strains
of music which are always floating on the air here
(for music is part of an Italian's life), — all make it
seem like a grand gala day. One never hears a dis
cordant note of music ; we not only tolerate, we
enjoy, the street music, whether it be the music of a
guitar or a tambourine in the hands of a blind beggar,
or the gay carol of some little street waif — it is all
music, "the concord of sweet sounds."
The museum at Naples is an immense building
containing the excavated treasures of Herculaneum
and Pompeii, Egyptian antiquities, mummies ; also
the famous papyri discovered at Pompeii. Papyri —
meaning those volumes belonging to an era many
centuries ago, when instruction was only for the
privileged few — is a sort of material for writing
on, prepared from the plant Papyrus. When
these volumes were first found they were thought
to be pieces of charcoal, yet, from their uniform
shape, they excited curiosity ; and finally an in
genious device was found for separating and unroll
ing them. Many savants of the time took upon
themselves the office of interpreting these strange
symbols, and through their agency, the works of
Philodemus, Polystratus, and many other valued

82 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
works of unknown authors have been handed down
to the present day. There is a large collection of
paintings in the museum, representing various schools
— the Roman, Genoese, Lombard, Venetian, and many
others. Raphael, Guido, and Correggio are all repre
sented here. There are many galleries here of bronzes
and marbles, all showing the state of perfection to
which the ancient Roman and Greek art had attained ;
and now, after twenty centuries have passed by, still
the devoted student of art comes here to study, tak
ing still as his guide and model these almost living,
breathing sculptures. A Visit to Pompeii.
Little did I think when reading Bulwer's " Last
Days of Pompeii," many years ago, that my own feet
would ever tread those silent streets, my own eyes
ever behold those relics of Oriental palaces, or gaze in
wondering admiration on those marvelously beautiful
works of ancient art, which have been brought to the
light of day once more. We leave Naples in the
early morning by carriage. It is a drive of about
three hours to Pompeii. The streets of Naples at
this early hour are very interesting and attractive.
They are alive with vendors of all kinds of vegetables
and fruits, going to market. The peasant women have
already begun their day's task, and we see them out
side their little houses, on the sidewalks, engaged in
washing, making ropes, sitting in little clusters making
fish-nets, knitting stockings, etc. The beautiful bay
lies at our right, tinged with the light of the morning

AROUND THE WORLD. 83
sun. The air is cool, and a keen sense of enjoyment
pervades every faculty. When one is realizing a life
long dream, every thing about one is idealized —
nothing is tame — nothing palls on the senses — but,
on the contrary, the commonest things, from their
novelty, charm and satisfy. We pass through a
suburban town called St. John ; a town frequented
by the wealthy Neapolitans during hot weather.
Here they have their villas, which are exceedingly
beautiful, and which seem doubly so, as we can only
obtain glimpses of them, for they are entered through
a portiere or gate, leading into an open court, beyond
which stretch the magnificent gardens belonging to
the villa, and in the midst of which it stands. As we
halt for a moment before one of these massive open
gates, I think of " Paradise and the Peri " :
" One morn a Peri at the gate
Of Eden stood disconsolate."
We have a momentary glimpse of fountains flash
ing in the sunlight ; masses of gorgeous coloring in
tree and flower ; snowy marbles standing in bold relief
against the green. But we pass on, driving over the
buried city of Herculaneum, one hundred feet below
us. It derived its name from the worship of Hercules.
It was discovered in 1719, by laborers engaged in
digging a well, although in all probability much of
it is still unearthed.
We also pass through another town, Torre-del-
Greco, which has ten times been destroyed by the
lava of Vesuvius, and each time on the hardened bed

84 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
of lava the new town has been built. In this respect
the Neapolitans never seem to be discouraged. After
the fiery wrath of the grand old mountain is spent,
they set to work undaunted to repair the ravages it
has wrought. During almost the entire length of the
drive we have the mountain in full view. It emits
a dense volume of smoke, inky black, intertwined
at intervals with streaks of fire. I would like to scale
its bare brown sides, and look into that seething
cauldron, but the undertaking is too arduous.
Pompeii is first mentioned in history 310 B.C. ; but
it has been proven to be of much greater antiquity.
It was named by the Phoenicians, Pompeia, meaning
Emporium. In fact it was the great emporium whence
corn and goods of all kinds were forwarded to the
surrounding towns and cities. In the time of Nero
it became a Roman colony. It was buried under
floods of burning lava from Vesuvius a.d. 79.
For centuries its existence was unknown and un
dreamed of, and it was finally discovered accidentally
in 1748.
Even at the present day excavations are still
being carried on, and it will probably be many years
before the whole town will be unearthed.
The streets are all admirably paved with large
blocks of lava, and we see at intervals deep ruts in
them, the imprints of the carriage wheels of those
days. The palaces, temples, and streets all derive their
names from some statue, picture, or relic found there
in ; as, for instance, the " Street of Tombs," so called
from its being lined on either side with tombs. These

AROUND THE WORLD. 85
monuments are massive in the extreme. Here were
buried the illustrious dead, whose names mark epochs
in the world's history. The famous " Appian Way,"
of Roman history, is the grand avenue through which
the Romans came to Pompeii. We wander among
the ruins of palaces, temples, triumphal arches ; occa
sionally we come upon a rich piece of mosaic in the
dust beneath our feet ; or the brilliant colorings of a
painting on some wall gleam from among the grim
gray ruins, still retaininglts rich hues, in spite of the two
thousand years which have intervened since the hand
of the artist painted it there. We can plainly see on
some of the walls the impress of the bodies of human
beings, — doubtless persons who, crouching in terror
there, were overtaken by the floods of burning lava
and showers of ashes which buried them from sight.
We stand among the ruins of the Grand Theatre of
that time. We can plainly see the floors, orchestra
chairs, galleries, stage, etc., quite similar to our own
of the present day ; there, so many years before
Christ, the people of the city were wont to congre
gate to witness representations on the stage, even
as we of to-day. We ascend an eminence formed
by lava, where excavations have not yet been made,
which commands a fine view of the whole of the
revealed portion of the city. It forms one of the
strangest sights, it seems to me, ever vouchsafed to
mortal eyes ; a network of splendidly paved streets,
lined with these ruins ; here the four walls of a room ;
there the magnificent columns of a palace ; anon, the
flight of solid circular marble steps, leading up to

86 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
some temple, whose altar we plainly see, and we can
almost imagine the smoke of the incense rising there
from ; — and the whole scene as silent as the grave t
No living thing, except perhaps a few tourists, like
ourselves, wandering wonderingly through the deso
lated streets. By merest accident this wonderful city
was brought to light ; and now, although a heap of
ruins, indescribably beautiful even in its ruins, it is
resorted to by the scholar and the artist, humbly
learning from its shrine, the better to wield both
scholar's pen and artist's pencil.
From Naples to Rome it is a distance of 164 miles
by rail. Modern Rome is built on the plain ; ancient
Rome was built on the historic seven hills. These
hills are — the Capitoline, Palatine, Pincio, Quirinal,
Aventine, Coelius, and Esquiline. Rome is estimated
to contain a population of about 244,000. The streets
are beautifully clean and well paved, and the shops
one mass of glitter. The peasant women all go in the
streets here as in Naples with bare heads. We spend
days here in visiting churches and picture-galleries,
but we begin to understand how tourists tire of this
ceaseless round. The eye and brain fairly become
weary of contemplating all this beauty and lavish
magnificence ; it is an embarras de richesses. The
real student and investigator must spend months
here ; we have but a few days, hence the knowledge
we obtain must be comparatively superficial.
The only ancient building in Rome which is still in
a state of preservation is the Pantheon. It is an
immense circular edifice ; its great dome of bronze

AROUND THE WORLD. 87
supported by fluted columns of marble, and the in
terior gorgeously decorated. At intervals around the
circle are niches consecrated to different gods ; these
niches or shrines are adorned with columns of por
phyry, granite, marble, etc. One of these shrines
contains the tomb of Raphael, and many other cele
brated artists are also buried here. The walls of this
building are twenty feet thick. We look up through
the great dome into the blue heavens ; for the dome
is open, and is the only means of lighting the building.
Here for so many centuries the rain has fallen un
heeded on the marble floors ; the sunlight has poured
in from above, casting a halo over all, and rendering
the place of matchless beauty.
On the brow of the Capitoline Hill is the " Im
perial Palace of the Caesars," an immense pile. In
the days of ancient Rome this hill was always the
favorite spot for the emperors' palaces. To us it
seems the most beautiful region in all Rome. We
ascend from the street one long flight of steps after
another, till we reach what was in past ages the
second story of these palaces. Here have been
made beautiful gardens, and from this elevation we
can look down upon these strange ruins — the strong
holds of the mighty rulers of ancient Rome, and, I
may say, of the world, for Rome, in the zenith of her
glory, was in truth the " Mistress of the World."
Excavations are continually being carried on in
Rome, and to this turning up of the soil some people
attribute the prevalence of Roman fever, so much to
be dreaded at certain periods of the year.

88 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
The Coliseum stands on the level of ancient Rome,
which is many feet below the level of the modern
city, and extends over an immense area, in the
form of an ellipse. This world-renowned edifice
is in ruins — but inconceivably grand in its ruins.
One part of the walls still towers to its original
height, while much of the remainder has fallen. We
enter through the ruined arches and stand in the
broad arena, the scene of gladiatorial combats and
sports of all kinds in those ancient days. Around us
rise tier after tier of galleries, with the massive stair
ways leading up through innumerable passage-ways
from the arena to the galleries. Imagination pictures
this as a grand whole, filled with the vast assemblages
which were wont to gather here, and we deem it no
sacrilege, as we contemplate this vast ruin, that the
wish arises, that Time's ruthless hand should have
been stayed ere yet it had been laid upon this mighti
est monument of the world's greatness. We ascend
to the highest platform now accessible, from which we
obtain a fine view of the city outside. It is stated
that 87,000 persons could be accommodated within
the Coliseum's walls. To the ancient Roman the
Coliseum was ever a symbol of the power of Rome.
This idea passed into a prophecy as follows :
" While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand ;
When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall ;
And when Rome falls, with her shall fall the world."
St. Peter's and the Vatican are situated in a mag
nificent plaza, semicircular in form, which gradually

,»»*?*«.

PALACE OF THE C/ESARS, ROME.

AROUND THE WORLD. 89
slopes up to the foot of the steps of St. Peter's. This
vast semicircle is entirely surrounded by a colonnade
formed of beautiful Corinthian columns ; in the centre
of this plaza are two fountains. Words are power
less to convey any idea of the matchless beauty of St.
Peter's, or the immensity of the Vatican. One be
comes almost dazed, as he wanders about, seeing
everywhere around him corridors and halls stretching
away in apparently endless viStas, lined with sculp
tured life which almost seems to breathe. The
Vatican is the concentration of the world's art treas
ures and literature. Among the numberless paintings
here is the world-renowned ceiling painting of the
Sixtine Chapel, by Michael Angelo, " The Creation."
It occupies nearly the whole of the ceiling, and is
indeed a wonderful study.
St. Peter's, as everybody knows, is the largest
church in the world. Its dome was designed by
Michael Angelo. It is very rich in works of art, but,
as I have before stated, simply beggars any adequate
description. It is carnival week in Rome ; business is generally
suspended, and the "Corso," the principal street
in the city, is the scene of a brilliant pageant. At
10 o'clock in the morning ropes are drawn across
the magnificent avenue at either end, and only the
participants in the festivities are allowed therein.
The entire avenue is filled with gayly caparisoned
horses, flower-decked carriages, and smiling faces.
Loads of children standing in long wagons covered
with greens pass singing through the streets. The

90 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
buildings are festooned with gay-colored stuffs, and
the balconies are a mass of flowers, and filled with
people, who drop flowers on the heads of the passers-
by. But woe to the luckless wight who through ig
norance or necessity finds himself within these pre
cincts sacred to the votaries of pleasure, who is not
dressed in pleasure's garb ; who is in the crowd
but not of it. Instead of flowers dropped from
Beauty's hand upon his head, he is deluged with little
pellets of lime and some mixture, which everybody is
at liberty to throw on everybody else who appears in
the light of an intruder. In truth, when you are in
Rome you m-ust do as the Romans do, or suffer the
consequences. To the truth of this assertion we
both bore indubitable evidence.

CHAPTER XI.
ITALY.
Florence — ^Venice — Bridge of Sighs — Grand Canal — Cathedral at Milan.
We spent a few days in Florence, visiting palaces,
chapels, and picture-galleries ; passing altogether too
hurriedly through these magnificent collections of
paintings and statuary. Everywhere in Italy one
revels in regions of beauty like these ; we find them
so interwoven with scenes of every-day life, that we
encounter their impress at every step. Detail would
be difficult for the writer, as well as tedious for the
reader. One chapel among others of remarkable
beauty is the Capella de Medicis, or Chapel of the
Medicis. The interior seems almost one mass of
precious stones. Columns of alabaster and marble
supporting the roof are inlaid with lapis lazuli, agate,
coral, amethyst, cameo, jasper, cornelian, etc. ; this
magnificent decoration extends to the ceiling, which
itself is a work of art. The Uffizi Gallery contains
one room called the " Room of Gems." The ceiling
is supported by eight columns, four in alabaster and
four in verd antique. Lining the sides of the room
are glass cases containing cups, vases, and caskets of
all descriptions, composed entirely of gems. Untold
wealth is represented in this one little room. From
91

92 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
this gallery a grand corridor leads directly to the Pitti
Palace, crossing the Arno. This magnificent covered
passage-way across the river is lined with paintings.
At the Florentine Museum of Natural Sciences is a
room dedicated to Galileo. Here we see Galileo's
first inventions : the first pendulum ever invented,
the first telescope, the first barometer and thermom
eter, etc. ; and amid them a fine statue in marble of
their inventor. This museum contains a vast collec
tion of objects of natural history ; it seems to me the
largest and finest in the world.
We visit the house of Michael Angelo, built under
his own direction, now kept in repair by the govern
ment. Many interesting relics of the great artist's
life are here. One room contains jottings of his
great paintings, ideal sculptures, architecture, etc., as
they presented themselves to his brain.
His first conceptions of many of his great works
were some of them pencil sketches, some crayons ;
here an eye, there a hand, anon an isolated figure —
all afterwards combined in one beautiful harmonious
whole. We see also a little private room, in which
he was wont to conceal himself when not wishing to
be disturbed.
The entrance leading to this room seems to be a
cabinet or wardrobe against the wall, but is in reality
a secret door. Here he was utterly excluded from
the world, alone with the wondrous conceptions of
his teeming brain.
We also visit another place very interesting to all
Americans — the Protestant Cemetery.

AROUND THE WORLD. 93
Here are buried some of America's brightest
lights : Theodore Parker, who died in Florence, May
lo, i860, and who was born in Massachusetts.
Hiram Powers, the great American sculptor, also is
buried here ; he died June 27, 1873. Here is also
the grave of Elizabeth Browning. We make a short
visit at Powers' studio, now carried on by his son,
who bids fair to rank with his gifted father in fame.
He is an exceedingly affable young man, who received
us in his artist's blouse with the greatest cordiality.
We visit the church of San Giovanni, whose bronze
doors, covered in bas-relief, were said by Michael
Angelo to be " fit for the gates of Paradise."
Our next stopping-place is Venice, and our first
glimpse of this wonderful city is under most favorable
auspices — a clear blue sky and brightly setting sun.
Our gondola, or omnibus boat as it is called, floats
up to the steps of the Hotel Domidi, where we soon
find ourselves pleasantly located. Our windows com
mand a fine view of the bay and the buildings sur
rounding it ; and in the evening, the myriads of
lights reflected in the water, the ghostly-black gon
dolas gliding in every direction, the gondolier's song
as it comes echoing back, — all combine to render the
whole scene fascinating in the extreme.
The Grand Canal corresponds to the principal street
in any other city, and the smaller canals, which intersect
it in all directions, correspond to the smaller streets.
This canal runs through the city in the form of the
letter S, and is bordered its entire length by beautiful
marble palaces and public buildings ; some of them

94 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
presenting very dingy fronts, darkened by age, for
many of them date back centuries. There are 400
canals in Venice, 400 bridges, 75 islands formed by
the canals, and 1 20,000 people, of which 40,000 are
beggars. Most of the houses rise immediately from the
water ; but some have a narrow strip of land in front.
The Piazza of St. Mark is the grand centre of
attraction, alike for foreigners and Venetians. It
is a large square, paved with marble and trachyte,
enclosed on three sides by imposing structures —
seeming like one vast marble palace. This forms a
fashionable promenade.
We witnessed a curious sight here this afternoon.
A large flock of pigeons fluttered down into the
square, and were fed. These birds are tenderly cared
for in Venice, as they were of great service during
the wars of the thirteenth century in carrying im
portant messages to Venice. Through all succeeding
generations the pigeon has ever been held sacred.
In the Piazza of St. Mark's is a large column, sur
mounted by a winged lion ; this is the emblem of
Venice. The lily is the emblem of Florence ; and
the wolf, of Rome.
The Church of Santa Maria della Salute is an
immense edifice, built on 1,500,000 piles. Among
the many beautiful marble sculptures here, is one of
which the conception is unique. It represents Venice,
in the form of a beautiful woman, kneeling before the
Virgin, blessing her for deliverance from the plague ;
the plague being represented by an old haggard
woman in an attitude of flight.

AROUND THE WORLD 95
The Doge's Palace presents a magnificent front of
carved marble. Ascending the marble steps, we
stand on the spot where the Doges were formerly
crowned. The audience-chamber in this palace is
adorned chiefly by the hand of Tintoretto. The
senate-chamber contains what our guide says is con
sidered the best painting in Europe — by Paul Vero
nese, viz. : " The Rape of Europa."
We saw the chamber in this palace where the
^' terrible Council of Three " were wont to hold their
private interviews during the horrors of the Inquisi
tion. The decorations of this room have been
changed, it having been hung at that time in black ;
and the " Three " used to sit here in black masks.
We visit the Chamber of Torture, and cross the
Bridge of Sighs, into the cells where those who had
been condemned were confined — dark, unventilated
loathsome places ; so dark, that if a person ever lived
to be released, he almost always emerged from the
prison blind. The Bridge of Sighs, a covered bridge
connecting the Doge's Palace with the dungeons,
owes its name to the trepidation of spirit these poor
culprits were in as they crossed this bridge on their
way to these cells, knowing well that they were leav
ing light, life, and liberty behind. We can but draw
a long breath of relief, as we contemplate all these
horrors, that the days of the Inquisition are passed.
The Academy of Fine Arts contains paintings by
Paul Veronese, Titian, Tintoretto, etc. We see here
an interesting relic : an urn, containing the right hand
of Canova, the sculptor. But there are palaces.

96 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
churches, galleries of art, apparently without end,.
inviting our attention. The city is a very treasure-
house of art. Venice, beautiful Venice, " Queen
of the Adriatic ! " We could be content to glide up
and down the waters of the Grand Canal, gazing in
wondering admiration on her beautiful palaces rising
from the water, and take no note of time. It is so
unlike any other city in the world, with its soundless
streets, echoing no tread of horses' hoofs or clattering
wheels ; naught save the soft dipping of the oar as
the gondolas glide swiftly by like phantoms.
One more city, Milan, and our tour in Italy is
ended. The ride by rail from Venice to Milan is delightful.
The two great attractions at Milan are, first, the
cathedral, and, second, the Galleria Vittori Emanueli.
The cathedral is the most elegant structure in Europe.
St. Peter's, of Rome, is larger, but must yield the
palm for architectural beauty to the cathedral of
Milan. Not a line or an angle but contributes its
part toward the harmonious beauty of the whole. It
is a Gothic structure ; the roof is surmounted with
ninety-eight Gothic turrets, and over two thousand
statues of marble adorn the exterior. The floor is
mosaic in marbles of different colors, and each of the
immense windows portrays a history in itself
We ascend to the first gallery, from which we have
a fine view of the city, also Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa,
St. Gothard, and the Simplon. Mont Blanc rears its
lofty head, snow-white, amidst a pile of dark-gray
clouds.

CHAPTER XII.
SWITZERLAND AND FRANCE.
Mont Cenis Tunnel — Geneva — Zurich — Illness while in a Foreign Land —
Paris — Champs Elysees — Home Life at the Cafes —
Pere la Chaise — Versailles.
The railway ride from Milan to Geneva is a pano
rama of beauty. Between Turin and Geneva we
pass through the Mont Cenis tunnel, eight miles
long through the heart of the mountain. We are
about three quarters of an hour passing through.
This tunnel is a magnificent achievement. The bor
ing-machines used in its construction were worked by
compressed air. It was commenced in January, 1861,
and completed in December, 1870, and about 2,000
men were employed constantly in its construction.
Geneva is a very beautiful city. It has many mag
nificent avenues with long vistas, reminding us of our
own "city of magnificent distances." From Geneva
to Zurich the road for miles runs along the lake
shore, and the scenery is of surpassing beauty. We
see scattered through the country the cottages of the
Swiss farmers ; they all look thrifty, and the land is
like one vast garden.
These Swiss cottages are very novel and pictu
resque ; they have steep thatched roofs — in fact, some
97

98 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
of them seem to be all roof and nothing else. As a
general thing, the house and barn are one and the
same building, the house being in one end and the
barn in the other. We are obliged to remain at
Zurich three weeks, on account of the serious illness
of the Doctor. He suffers a recurrence of the attack
which prostrated him in Bombay.
We have an excellent native physician. Dr. Clo-
etta, who is kindness itself to us, strangers in a
strange land.
We seem to be here at an unfavorable time of the
year, for it rains constantly, and we have scarcely
caught a glimpse of the sun during all our stay. As
soon as possible, on account of the weather, we under
take the journey to Paris ; and from this time on, all
our movements will tend toward the seaboard of Eng
land, from which point we shall sail for America.
We arrive at Paris about five o'clock in the morning,
thoroughly tired out after our all-night's ride by rail.
In Europe little is known of the luxury of travel,
with which we are all so familiar in America. Warm
cars and good beds would be a revelation to Euro
peans. We found it very cold all night, but we had
no way of keeping warm except by means of hot-
water cans, which were brought in and placed under
our feet, and occasionally, or rather semi-occasionally,
renewed at the various stations. We had a compart
ment to ourselves ; but, be the seat never so com
fortable, sitting bolt upright all night is tedious
work. This is the secret of the striking contrast
presented between the native European traveler at

AROUND THE WORLD. 99
home and the native American traveler at home.
Doubtless all our countrymen who have traveled in
Europe have noticed the loads of wraps and rugs
and portable luggage of all kinds, which the native
European traveler — I care not of what nation —
staggers under. It is no small matter to him to get
himself and his belongings safely aboard the train.
The huge bundles fill up and overflow the racks,
and lie piled on the floor higher than the seats ; but,
after moving out of the station, he proceeds to make
himself comfortable by wrapping himself up in the
whole pile like a mummy. It is the only way he can
keep warm. In our own country, in the depth of
winter, the traveler steps lightly on to the car, unen
cumbered, with no more thought for his personal well-
being than though he were entering his own house.
Overcoats are laid aside, and though the ther
mometer may be down to zero, it matters little to
him. Europe may be far ahead of us in all that per
tains to the fine arts, but with regard to matters per
taining to personal conveniences and comforts, in
her railways, her hotels, and her places of amusement,
she is far behind us.
We spend the time in Paris in driving about to the
different places of interest. The drive through the
Champs Elysees to the Bois de Boulogne cannot be
equalled in the world. This is the great pleasure-
ground of Paris, consisting of a vast series of beauti
fully ornamented parks. Scattered through them are
innumerable little cafes ; the grounds about them
hung with many colored lights, which renders the

100 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
scene by night a brilliant spectacle. One peculiar
feature of a Parisian's life is the readiness with which
he makes a home of a cafe. There the people spend
most of their leisure time. The Frenchman takes his
wife and children there, and sitting under the awning
around a little table, they take their coffee, wine, or
some simple refreshment, amusing themselves with
looking at the gay throng passing in never-ending
succession. We visited the garden of the Tulleries on Sunday ;
the grounds were thronged. On one side we saw
base-ball playing ; a little farther on, an open-air
concert was in progress ; and in still another part of
the grounds a man standing on a raised platform
was giving some recitation or story ; and about each
the pleasure-loving Parisians were gathered in crowds,
clapping their hands with shouts of " encorer But
amid all this apparent confusion, the utmost order
and decorum prevailed.
We visit the famous cemetery Pere la Chaise.
It is really a city of the dead — for it has much the
appearance of a very shabby, dingy city, with nothing
of the beauty of our own cemeteries. The tombs are
generally of medium size, and square, and arranged in
rows just like the blocks in city streets. Very little
attention is paid to beautifying the grounds, and the
graves, instead of being decorated with growing plants
and fresh flowers, are adorned with all sorts of
devices in mourning emblems, which are kept for sale
at the little shops along the streets leading to the
cemetery. The grounds are elevated and command a
magnificent view of the city.

AROUND THE WORLD. lOI
The Madeleine Church is said to be the handsomest
in Paris. It is situated in the centre of a large square,
towering in its majestic simplicity of outline, far above
the surrounding buildings. It is in pure Grecian
style ; oblong in form, completely surrounded with
Corinthian columns.
The Hotel des Invalides is an asylum for the aged
and maimed soldiers of France. It is hung with flags
and banners captured by the French, some riddled
with shot and hanging in tatters. It was founded by
Louis XIV. Here in a porphyry sarcophagus, sur
rounded by the mouldering battle-flags he has cap
tured, and weeping figures in marble, lies the body of
Napoleon I. Immediately over the entrance to the
place, is this beautiful and touching inscription : " Je
desir que mes cendres reposent sur les bords de la
Seine, au milieu de ces peuples framjais, qui j'ai tant
alme." " I desire that my remains should repose
upon the borders of the Seine, among the French
people whom I have so deeply loved."
The Pantheon is of great historic interest. Origi
nally intended for a church, it was dedicated during
the Revolution to the memory of the great men of
France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and many
others who have figured In the history of France,
are buried in the vaults beneath. On the tomb of
Rousseau, a hand is represented rising therefrom,
holding a torch — conveying the meaning that Rous
seau casts light around him even after death.
We visit the gallery of the Louvre. This mag
nificent palace was commenced by order of Francis

I02 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
I., work upon it continuing through various reigns
down to Napoleon I., and was finally completed
by Napoleon III. It was formerly the residence of
the reigning sovereign, but is now used as a vast
gallery of art. One can walk miles through this
immense pile seeing nothing but these wonderful
paintings and sculptures collected at immense expense
by the French Government, and considered the most
extensive and the finest collection in the world.
Of course everybody goes to see the magnificent
Temple of Art, called the Grand Opera House.
The auditorium in itself did not realize our expec
tations, but the lobbies, salles de promenade, etc.,
are magnificent, beyond description.
Versailles is distant fourteen miles from Paris.
Here stands the world-renowned palace built by
Louis XIV. in 1664. Until the latter part of the
1 6th century this palace was the residence of the
reigning sovereigns of France. The National As
sembly now meets in a portion of the palace, but the
greater part is devoted to the exhibition of valuable
paintings and sculpture. The grand entrance hall is
adorned with statues and busts of some of the cele
brated men of the times. Among others the statue
of Napoleon I. seemed to us a marvel in art. He is
represented as wasted by illness, reclining in a large
arm-chair, a pillow at the back, against which he
leans, dressed in his nightrobes ; the delicate frills
of which in snowy marble seem almost transparent.
One thin hand resting idly in his lap ; cheeks sunken,
eyes hollow — the whole figure so like a man in the

AROUND THE WORLD. lOJ
last stages of disease, that one is lost in wondering
admiration. The grand Gallery of Battles on the floor above is
filled with historical paintings representing the great
battles and military triumphs of France, and leading
historical events in the national annals. Prominent
among these is an immense painting representing the
crowning of Josephine by Napoleon I., in Notre
Dame. From the windows of the palace we have a
fine view of the great parks and pleasure grounds be
longing thereto. At the extremity of one of the
parks is a villa, called the Grand Trianon, built by
Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon. It now con
tains a fine collection of paintings and sculpture.
Not far from this is a building containing the state
carriages, among which is the carriage used by the
Empress Josephine after her divorce.
With this hurried glimpse of Paris and environs,
we leave, en route to London, via Boulogne, thence
across the channel to Folkestone, thence by rail, two
hours, to Charing Cross Station, where we are
launched into the bustle and roar of the great city
of London.

CHAPTER XIII.
ENGLAND.
London — Underground Railway — Westminster Abbey — Tower of London —
British Museum — Hampton Court — Parks of London — Homeward Bound.
Once again, after an interval of a year, our ears
are greeted by our own familiar tongue. It seems
odd, for we have come to be regular polyglots. A
cabman steps up respectfully and asks us if we would
like a cab.
The Doctor is so overjoyed at being addressed in
English that he quickly turns, and grasping him
heartily by the hand, he says : " You are the first
hackman who has spoken to me in a civilized tongue
in a year ; I want to shake hands with you."
The days pass swiftly in this wonderful city, so full
of interest to the stranger. We make several excur
sions by the underground railway. It is said to be
unhealthy to travel habitually by this railway, as the
gases generated here are noxious ; but it is a great
boon to the city, an outlet for the tide of travel sur
ging up and down the streets, which but for this would
form an almost impenetrable mass. We are carried
rapidly on, with a tremendous roar ; under the busy
streets — under the railways — trains of cars thundering
104

AROUND THE WORLD. 105
along over our heads — trains of cars flying past us in
the dim light almost every moment, carrying the
myriads of people this way and that through the great
city. Every car thronged — every station thronged —
every omnibus, cab, and every street thronged with
people ; verily there is no city like it under the sun.
The British Museum, Tower of London, West
minster Abbey, Houses of Parliament, Hyde Park,
Kensington, and Kew are in these days of rapid
transit familiar terms to the average American ;
however, a short account of our visits to these places
may not prove uninteresting.
The British Museum is a world in itself It con
tains an immense library, in which it is estimated that
there are thirty miles of shelving, and 1,400,000 vol
umes. But this immense and almost incomprehensi
ble mass of books is so classified and systematized in
its arrangement that a person can put his finger on
the volume for which he is looking almost Immedi
ately. There is a large collection of statuary at this
museum ; and here we see the famous Elgin marbles,
brought from Athens by Lord Elgin, at an enormous
expense. The " gold ornament room " is a store
house of gold and gems. Here we see the wonder
ful Portland Vase ; also a large collection of gold
coins from the time of Queen Elizabeth down to the
present day.
To the student of history, the Tower of London
will afford food for many hours of thought. It is the
scene of many interesting events in history, having
served as a fortress, a royal palace, a prison, and a

I06 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
treasure house, all in one. As we pass through the
grounds we see the solitary window through which
Lady Jane Grey used to gaze upon the world outside
behind prison bars. We pass up the dark, mouldy
stone steps leading to Sir Walter Raleigh's cell.
Here he was imprisoned thirteen years, and here he
wrote his history of the world. We also visit the
Bloody Tower, which tradition says was the scene of
the murder of the two sons of Edward IV., 1483,
whose bones were found here, and were carefully
gathered up and deposited in a tomb in Westminster
Abbey. Here also Robert, Earl of Essex, the favor
ite of Queen Elizabeth, was confined, and led forth
to receive his death warrant. Within the enclosure
outside the Tower we see the spot where Mary
Stuart, Anne Boleyn, and Lady Jane Grey were be
headed. There is a splendid display of ancient and modern
arms, arranged in all sorts of curious devices ; also a
large collection of full suits of armor, worn during
the reign of different kings. We also see the mask
worn by the king's jester in the time of Henry VIII.
The Tower also contains the crown jewels. Vic
toria's crown is a cap of purple velvet, circled by
silver bands, surmounted by a ball and cross resplen
dent with diamonds. In the centre of the cross is the
inestimable sapphire ; and in front is the large heart-
shaped ruby, said to have been worn by the Black
Prince. There are many other crowns ; among them,
that of the Prince of Wales. Here is also the royal
sceptre, which is placed in the right hand of the

THE TOWER, LONDON.

AROUND THE WORLD. 107
sovereign, at the coronation, by the Archbishop of
Canterbury. We also see the baptismal font of pure
gold which is used at the christening of the royal
children. This visit to the Tower is fraught with a
strange interest. Crowned heads have issued from
these walls to reign amid a life of splendor, and
crowned heads have also gone hence to be laid upon
the block. The bare stone walls of some of these
cells bear witness to the many idle hours and days of
hopeless solitude to which these prisoners were
doomed ; vainly striving to find some food for thought,
some occupation for mind and body, which might,
perchance, tend to divert their thoughts from their
own terrible doom ; and here we see all sorts of
inscriptions and initials carved skilfully in the solid
stone. Robert, Earl of Essex, carved his own initials
here. What a link is the wonderful Tower between
the bloody past and the peaceful present !
Westminster Abbey ! At the mention of the very
name, what a tide of thought rushes in upon our minds !
It has been aptly styled " the Pantheon of the Glory
of Britain." Here kings and sculptors, princes and
poets, philosophers and warriors, the queen and the
actress, have silently mouldered into dust. Here the
awful sentence of excommunication was launched
forth. These gray walls have been for centuries
silent witnesses of all the pomp and splendor of royal
coronations ; and also of the burial services of Eng
land's distinguished dead. The Abbey is built in the
form of a Latin cross. In one end is what is called
the Poet's Corner ; where we find monuments to

I08 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
many celebrated poets, and some of them are buried
here. Such names as Shakespeare, Goldsmith,
Southey, Ben Jonson, Dryden, Lord Lytton, Addi
son, Milton, Chaucer, Gray, and Spenser are per
petuated here. Here lies buried Charles Dickens ;
a simple slab bearing the inscription : " Born Feb
ruary 7, 1812 — died June 9, 1870." Lord John
Russell and daughter are buried here. Queens
Elizabeth and Mary — rival sisters in life — lie buried
in the same vault. Here is a monumentary slab to
David Livingstone, the great African explorer, bearing
the inscription : " His life was spent in evangelizing
the native races, in exploring the secrets, in abolish
ing the slave trade, of Central Africa " ; and his last
words were : " All I can say is, may Heaven's rich
blessings come down on every one, American, Eng
lish, or Turk, who will help to heal this open sore of
the world." We saw among the various pieces of
sculpture here one which was impressive from its
singularity. It is over the tomb of Lady Nightingale,
who died in 1 734. The monument is represented as
opening its doors, and the grim skeleton Death is
starting forth — ready to launch his dart at his victim,
who is represented dying in the arms of her affrighted
husband, while he endeavors to shield her from him.
It is a strange conception, and a masterpiece of art.
The House of Lords is an elegant room in its
appointments, although not so conveniently arranged
as our own Senate-chamber.
Madame Tussaud's celebrated wax-works must not
be overlooked in our tour through London. Here

AROUND THE WORLD. IO9
we are ushered into an immense suite of rooms,
apparently thronged with elegantly dressed people
scattered about in groups seemingly in animated
conversation ; they are all wax ! We see kings and
queens and peers of the realm ; also various dis
tinguished characters of our own country. Here
is also the " Chamber of Horrors," where are busts
and full-length figures of some of the most noted
criminals. It is a beautiful drive of fourteen miles from Lon
don to Hampton Court. We pass through Bushy
Park ; the principal attraction of which is a magnifi
cent avenue, lined on either side with noble old
chestnut trees, which at this season of the year are in
full blossom. The sight is a most beautiful one.
The palace at Hampton Court was built by
Cardinal Wolsey In 1 5 1 5 for himself, and for a time
was occupied by him ; but, as the story runs, the
jealousy of King Henry VIII was at last excited at
his occupying a better palace than the king himself ;
and was only appeased by the cardinal's declaration
that he built it with a view of presenting it to his
sovereign. For several reigns Hampton Court was
the favorite residence of royalty ; and was last
occupied by George II. At present a large portion
of the rooms are open to the public, for the exhibition
of paintings, tapestry, ancient military weapons, etc.
We are shown the state beds of Queen Charlotte
and Queen Anne. , The palace also contains a noble
Gothic hall, where in the time of Queen Elizabeth
plays were frequently performed.

no REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
The grounds about the palace are vast ; and in
one of the gardens is the celebrated greenhouse con
taining what is supposed to be the largest grape-vine
in the world. It was planted in 1768. The stem
is no feet long, and at three feet from the ground
is nearly thirty inches in circumference. The vine
spreads over the entire roof of the greenhouse,
and bears often 2,000 or 3,000 bunches of grapes,
which are reserved for the royal table. In one part
of the grounds is " Queen Mary's Bower," a long
walk, with trees on both sides, which seem fairly
welded together by time into one massive arch of
green. We visited the "Royal Mews" at Buckingham
Palace. The Queen keeps about one hundred and
fifty horses and about fifty carriages of various kinds ;
those used for state occasions, such as the opening of
Parliament, etc., are elaborately gilded ; others used
for ordinary occasions are black, and are quite simple
in design. When the Queen takes a drive, her
carriage is always furnished with postilions. The
harnesses are immensely heavy and richly plated ;
some in gold, and some in silver. The Queen, it is
said, visits the stables frequently.
In our drives about the city, the Thames is always
a central point of interest to us ; and the mass of
humanity constantly moving across London Bridge,
is one of the sights of London. At this time of the
year, which happens to be "the season" in London,
Hyde Park daily presents a brilliant spectacle. The
spacious avenues are thronged with the most magni^

AROUND THE WORLD. Ill
ffcent equipages in England ; coachmen and footmen
with elaborately curled and powdered wigs. Princes,
dukes, and earls, with many lesser lights, pass rapidly
by in a glittering throng. In one portion of the park
is a long avenue for riding only, called " Rotten
Row." Hyde Park is very extensive, containing 388
acres. Kew Gardens contain about 400 acres, and a visit
here is of peculiar interest to the student of natural
history. Here are large botanical gardens ; conser
vatories of tropical plants ; a building containing a
collection of all kinds of wood known ; another with
all sorts of dried plants known to the world, etc., etc.
It may be called the world's great Botanical Exchange,
as it is in constant communication with all countries,
receiving and sending specimens, etc. There is scarce
a mystery of the vegetable world but can be solved
at Kew ; the origin, growth, and habits of its myriads
of denizens, are as accurately traced and placed as
are those of the animal kingdom. Regent's Park
contains 472 acres. These parks and gardens are
among the many with which London abounds ; all on
a grand scale. Great sweeps of woodland, beautiful
green velvety lawns, stretching away as far as the eye
can see ; brilliant at this season of the year with solid
banks of flowers, and beds in all sorts of curious
devices. It is this one feature, the public parks,
which in my estimation individualizes London ; for
in no other city in the world, it seems to me, do we
find them so vast and numberless.
Our stay in Paris and London is necessarily

112 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
curtailed, owing to the Doctor's state of health. We
should delight in becoming more thoroughly acquaint
ed with them ; but perhaps at some future time we
may visit these two representative cities of the world
again. We left London via Midland Railway en route to
Liverpool, from which point we sailed for New York
on May 25th, by the steamer City of Chester arriving
at New York on Sunday, June 4th, after a pleasant
voyage. We rolled into the railway station at Syracuse from
the eastern end, having left a year ago by the western
end. We have made the complete circuit of the
globe. It is a grand achievement, and while the
hardships and privations have been many, they are
more than counterbalanced by the pleasures enjoyed
and the information obtained.

CHAPTER XIV.
A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR.
At Home Again — Interesting Excursions by Carriage through the State —
Increasing ID-Health of the Doctor — Tries the Ocean Panacea Once More.
The next few years of the Doctor's life were
passed in attending to his large business interests at
home. His health continued usually good, until the
year 1881, when he was prostrated from the effects
of exposure on the night of the burning of his block,
which, as has already been stated, occurred on the
night of July 19, 1881. After this illness, which
confined him to the house for months, he never
really recovered his former health ; an asthmatic
and bronchial affection soon developing itself, assum
ing at last a chronic form. From this he was never
free during the remainder of his life, although by
exercising constant watchfulness and care he remained
in a fair state of health for a number of years. He
spent much of his time in studying his own condition,
purchasing all books which afforded any possible
information on the subject, and treating himself
much of the time. He was a liberal subscriber to
all medical works, constantly making additions to his
extensive library. "3

114 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
He was an enthusiastic admirer of nature, and
was never happier than when taking long journeys
by carriage through the country, which were of
annual occurrence during a period of more than
twelve years. In this way both he and his wife,
who was his constant companion in all these excur
sions, became familiar with almost the entire face of
the country through New York State ; this annual
summer driving tour often extending over a period
of six weeks. One drive alone of nearly five hundred
miles through the wonderful Adirondack region, which
occupies almost the entire extreme northern portion of
our State ; a journey which might well daunt less hard
ened veterans than they, but which was to them^ a de
light, and from which the Doctor returned much bene
fited in health.
In the hope of finding some relief from his
bronchial difficulty, which was gradually assuming
a very serious aspect, and by the advice of his
physician. Doctor Wieting and his wife again crossed
the ocean in the summer of 1887, with the intention
of completing the tour of Europe, which they were
not able to do at the time of their trip around the
world. Here again the writer begs permission to
give the story of their travels in her own words.
July 13, 1887. The departure by North German
Lloyd steamer Trave.
Heated, dusty, and thirsting for the breath of the
ocean, the passengers file up the gangway to the
deck, and as they leave New York behind, in the
glare of a noonday sun, with the mercury at 105°,

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. US
they draw a long breath of relief as the welcome
breeze fans their faces. The dining-saloon is well
filled at dinner : here are Americans, English, Scotch,
Italians, and Germans, with a preponderance of the
latter. Dinner to well-to-do Germans is an event of im
portance ; they take their seats at the table stolid
and grave, but their spirits rise as the wine lowers in
their glasses, till the close of the dinner finds them
loquacious, demonstrative even to boisterousness. A
transatlantic steamer is a little world of itself ; all types
and phases of life are represented here, and confined
to the narrow limits of a ship — " Nature will out."
The second or third day out, and the passengers
may be distinctly classified into two grand divisions —
for we had a rolling sea last night : the one made up
of pale, miserable, dejected-looking mortals ; the other
with bright, smiling, and happy faces, — old Ocean
may toss them about as he wills, and they always
come right-side up. Day after day dawns, and still we
have below us the fathomless, limitless blue of the
sea : above us the fathomless, limitless blue of the
sky ; the one flecked with snowy.., caps of foam, the
other flecked with shifting, fleecy clouds ; truly the
impress of the Infinite is on both.
To the true lover of the sea there is no monotony
in an ocean voyage. Those who talk of it know not
the sea. To them in vain it gives its changing hues,
and forms, and sounds — 't is but the sea ! To those
who love it, it is a never-ending fascination.
But a few hours ago it was sparkling in the sun-

1X6 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
light ; now it is gray and dismal as the clouds that
hang above it. A fog has settled down upon us, and
rests like a mantle over the ocean. At short inter
vals the fog-horn gives out its resonant blast ; far
away the shadowy outlines of a ship are visible,
stealing along like a phantom. A heavy sea is on,
and the ship rolls tremendously ; chairs are lashed to
the deck, and everybody tries to get his sea-legs, as
the sailors say.
On the morning of the eighth day out, the coast
of England is in view ; beautiful, bold in out
line and rich in verdure. We are headed directly
toward the Isle of Wight and see the "nee
dles," long points of rock jutting out into the
sea. Her Majesty has a castle at Cowes, a very
pretty town on the Isle of Wight. A small boat
comes to meet us to take the passengers for South
ampton. As It steams slowly toward us, we see
many expectant faces lifted to our lofty deck, eagerly
scanning the faces there, looking for those most dear.
Happy greetings are exchanged between friends long
separated, and many eyes are suffused with tears of
joy. Many of our passengers leave us here for vari
ous points. Brought together in the focus of a large
steamer's deck for a few days, now they begin to
radiate once more — who shall say whither !
Well, all is over ; and we drift apart amid cheers
and waving handkerchiefs ; our staunch vessel fills
her mighty lungs once more, and grandly tosses the
waters from her prow as on she speeds. Far in the
distance we see a fleet of vessels anchored — English

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. HZ
war vessels in readiness for the grand naval review
which is to occur on the 24th. These vessels are
anchored in Portsmouth harbor. Her Majesty, ac
companied by a long line of troop ships, will witness
the review. Many foreign vessels will also participate.
We see anchored here the famous man-of-war, the
Invincible. Until quite recently she has always been
considered the heaviest ship in the British navy, and
nearly the heaviest In the world. It is a magnificent
spectacle, and we see it at the most favorable mo
ment, with all in readiness for action. How threat
ening they appear in their grim, black outlines,
bristling with cannon ! We pass swiftly through the
lines, and flags are dipped in our honor.
Only the British navy could furnish at so short notice
such a formidable fleet, while so many of her ironclads
are on duty at foreign ports. As we steam out of
the lines we pass between two circular forts of im
mense size, guarding the harbor, and between which
all vessels must pass ; small chance here for invasion.
England evidently knows how to take care of her
self At last the lonely grandeur of the ocean has
vanished, and the friendly stretches of land greet us
at intervals as we cast our eyes around. One more
night on the ocean, and then we shall hear the rush
ing of the waters no more ; we shall feel no more
the throbbing of the veins and arteries of this
mighty ship, as its life-blood courses swiftly through
them, propelling her onward with resistless power.
On the morning of the 2 2d, we enter the English

Il8 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Channel ; but it is divested of all its terrors. There
is only a gentle rippling of the blue waters, instead
of the rough chop sea of which we have heard so
much. We soon pass into the North Sea, a danger
ous sea to navigate ; and we see frequently light
houses and buoys. Entering the Weser River, we
see in the distance Bremerhaven, the place of land
ing, fifty miles below Bremen, and from which point
we take the cars to Bremen, the real terminus of our
ocean voyage.

CHAPTER XV.

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

Bremen — Appearance of Railway Stations — Hamburg — Holstein Cattle —
Flower Girl — Government of Hamburg — Stendal — Feather Beds —
The Dutch Stove — Hunting for the Doctor's Genealogical Tree.
Bremen, our first stopping-place after our ocean
voyage, is a free city on the Weser River. Its chief
attraction is the grand Romanesque Cathedral, eight
hundred years old. In a subterranean chamber here
we see several mummies which are supposed to have
lain there nearly two hundred years. They are in
the original coffins they were placed in at the time of
death. It is said that no artificial means had ever
been employed for their preservation ; they were
simply placed there, and the conditions of the atmo
sphere were such that the bodies dried and were gradu
ally formed into mummies. In corroboration of this
we were shown several birds which had been killed
and hung up here, and had gradually shriveled away
without any apparent odor. But all this we receive
with several grains of allowance, as we are constantly
compelled to do in traveling about the world.
One feature of this German city is its extreme neat
ness. The streets devoted to private residences are
very beautiful. The houses are generally light in color,
119

I20 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
with flat fronts, across which almost invariably ex
tends a glass-inclosed balcony, filled just now with
flowers ; the sliding doors are all opened, through
which we have glimpses of rich and brilliant in
teriors. The steps are generally of white marble,
flanked with flowering plants of gorgeous colors,
and kept in a state of snowy whiteness by the
rosy-cheeked Gretchens we see flitting about the
establishment. The small plot of ground in front
of these mansions is ornamented to the highest
degree, and there is invariably a tiny summer-house
overgrown with vines, furnished with table and chairs,
where the family sit in the cool of the day and take
their after-dinner coffee or the omnipresent lager.
The railway stations here present a very odd appear
ance. They are yf/Z^flf with little round tables, where
travelers sit and drink beer, or take some refresh
ment while waiting for trains. After procuring tick
ets for Hamburg, we order a lunch and go outside in
the open air to eat it ; the grounds enclosing the
railway station being also furnished with tables and
seats. The cars all through Germany are divided into first,
second, third, and fourth classes. The second class
is equally as good as the first, comparing favorably
with the first-class cars of England. The face of the
country between Bremen and Hamburg is flat, and
the soil so wet that drainage is universally resorted
to. The fields are drained in sections by ditches cut
across, all emptying into one large ditch or canal, on
which we see people rowing boats through their

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 121
fields, gathering up the hay and piling it on to these
boats, and carrying it in this way to their barns. On
account of these drains or ditches, the farms seem
to be cultivated in regular small sections, the different
colored grains and vegetables presenting a very
pleasing appearance in this compact and regular form.
The roofs of the buildings are thatched with straw,
which in some cases Is moss-grown. As we approach
Hamburg the face of the country seems a little more
rolling. We see great flocks of geese in the fields
busily preparing their livers, — poor unsuspecting crea
tures, — for the general favorite in all Europe, — the
pdtes-defoie-gras. Hamburg Is the chief port of Germany, situated on
the north bank of the Elbe, seventy miles from its
mouth. There are several canals here which unite
the Alster lakes, fed by the Alster River, — a branch
of the Elbe. The quays are three miles long ; there
is an immense amount of shipping, and the largest
ocean steamers enter here. Hamburg was formerly
a fortified city ; but the fortifications are turned into
pleasant promenades around the old town ; for the
town seems to present two distinct features — the old
and the new. A great fire occurred here in 1842,
destroying much of the city, which has since been
rebuilt in modern style ; hence its singular appear
ance. The old town is very quaint and picturesque,
with its steep-tiled roofs and many windows of small
panes of glass. Indeed the entire front of the
houses seems to be of windows in row upon row, —
each with its snowy curtains and pots of flowers,

122 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
and now and then a rosy German face looking out..
This is the place whence originate the famous Holstein
cattle, and in the suburban regions we see immense
stables or barns where they are housed, and con
nected with them are extensive grazing fields.
No wonder we have the best of beef, butter, cheese,
and milk while here. About 500,000 cattle are an
nually shipped to England.
The chief beauty of the city is in the suburbs ;
palace after palace fronting on this river. The street
cars here are many of them run by steam, and are
two stories high, and the stages drawn by horses are
built in the same way. The hacks all look very
heavy and unwieldy, but are invariably drawn by one
horse. The baby-carriages which we see in the
street look like elongated clothes-baskets, and the top.
is provided with silk curtains of delicate hue to draw
across the front.
One evening during a walk we were accosted by
a German peasant flower-girl, who had just come
in from the provinces. Her dress was very pecu
liar : a flat straw hat, with wide brim ; on the
back of her head an immense wide black ribbon
bow, with ends reaching to her heels ; a stomacher
of brilliant glass beads of all hues ; a short, full skirt,
with gay bodice and enormous puffed sleeves ; and
wooden pattens. In the early morning hours the
streets are filled with peasant women bringing their
produce to market. We saw two women shoving a
good-sized market wagon through the streets, loaded
with fruits and vegetables, besides baskets filled and

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 123
hanging from every available point. A few moments
after we saw a woman with two immense loaded
baskets hanging from a yoke which was placed across
her shoulders.
In one of the public squares is a monument erected
to the memory of the Hamburg regiment engaged
in the Franco-Prussian war. It represents an angel
stooping to raise a dying soldier from the ground,
where he, together with his horse has fallen wounded
to the death. On the other side another dying soldier
is represented raising himself on one arm, with the
other outstretched toward the angel figure in piteous
entreaty. On the opposite side lies a soldier — dead.
On the base are inscribed the names of all the
battles in which this regiment was engaged, and the
names of all the soldiers who participated.
Hamburg is a free city, having its own parliament
house and its own government, the same as one of
our States, while at the same time its interests are
one with Germany, and the Emperor holds the same
relative position to Hamburg that the President of
the United States holds to each State in the Union.
Hamburg was annexed to the German Empire in
1866. The Hamburgians fly their own colors. The
Hamburg flag is three towers.
A ride by rail of three hours through a beautiful
and highly cultivated country, and we arrive at Sten
dal, Prussia. This is a quaint old town, the very
quintessence of Dutchdom. We are driven to the
Adler Hotel. On arriving we pass into an enclosed
court, where we alight from the carriage. On enter-

124 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
ing our rooms the first thing that arrests my eye
is the appearance of the two single beds ; they are of
such a height. 'T is the Dutch feather-bed ! Down,
down we sink, till it seems we must smother. There
are two on each bed, and I suppose one is to be slept
on and the other to be slept under. The broad-faced
German waiting-maid stares in open-mouthed aston
ishment while we remove the two upper ones, and
so manage to pass a comfortable night. The chief
ornament in a room, and the one in which their souls
delight most, it seems to me, is the stove — If we
can call a thing so formidable by so small a name. It
is several stories high ; the fire is built in the lower
story — but the superstructure has the appearance
of white marble, sometimes carved and inlaid with
rich and beautiful tile. Altogether, as it stands, it
reaches nearly to the ceiling. It reminds one con
stantly of a monument in a graveyard.
We breakfast in a small old-fashioned room, where
the table-waiter, who also acts in the capacity of
clerk, sits at a desk writing. On the wall is a por
trait of the Emperor, and another of the Crown
Prince ; the tall Dutch stove is the only other orna
ment of the room. While sitting at breakfast we are
regaled by the squealing of a pig that has strayed
into the court and is being pulled out by the tail.
Doctor Wieting's grandfather was born in Stendal,
and we see the very spot where he first saw light ; we
are also fortunate enough to find some branches of the
family still living here. We pay them a farewell
visit, finding them in queer old houses, very comfort-

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 125
ably fitted up, with the lower floors bare and sanded,
which open on to pleasant gardens in the rear, where
we take seats at small tables and are served with
wine, which is brought to us flanked by a huge bowl
of sugar, from which all sweeten their wine.
Stendal is a very old city, of about eighteen thousand
inhabitants. It has a church which was built in 1686.
It was formerly a fortified city, but, like most of the
fortified towns of Europe at the present day, the
fortifications are turned into walks. The moat
which surrounds the city is coated with a thick green
scum, and heavily fringed with a rank growth of
foliage, which must necessarily render the city very
unhealthy. The drainage consists of open gutters through the
streets. The whole town looks as though It might
just have awakened from its Rip Van Winkle sleep,
and, like Rip, to be dazed at Its dilapidated condition.
The churches are old, the houses are old, the roofs
sunken, and in the poorer quarters seem just ready to
sink down in a heap and give up the ghost. The
carriages are old and mouldy-looking, drawn by
superannuated horses, which look as if they too shared
in the general depression.
We see women carrying on their backs big baskets
full of grass they have brought from the fields ; we
see them dragging heavy carts through the streets,
working with the men in the hay-fields ; and in fact
they seem more like beasts of burden than any thing
else. Their faces are wrinkled, coarse, and bronzed
with the impress of their toilsome lives.

126 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
About the only things that show any signs of life
are the clocks in the several towers, which ring out in
solemn tones the hours, half-hours, and quarter-hours,
with unvarying precision, as if the inhabitants of
this sleepy old town might otherwise forget the flight
of time entirely.

CHAPTER XVL
THE GERMAN EMPIRE — Continued.
Berlin — Royal Museum — Beer-Gardens — Unique Parks — Potsdam — Kaiser
Wilhelm's Favorite Palace — Frederick the Great — Sans Souci
— What Germany Thinks of France.
The distance from Stendal to Berlin is forty miles.
The country is flat, as it is through the principal part
of Germany, but beautiful and highly cultivated.
The Hotel Central, which is our home during
our stay in Berlin, is the largest hotel in all Ger
many. It contains seven hundred rooms, and is
built in the form of a hollow square, as are all
buildings in Germany. The court is a thing of
beauty, paved with marble, adorned with fountains
and flowering plants, and surrounded by a vine-
wreathed balcony. It is thickly set with little tables,
where the guests may breakfast in the open air, while
a splendid German band is playing. Ladies are pre
sented with a rose each morning at the table. If you
ask for ice-water it is charged to you, and you pay
for it if it is brought to your room.
Berlin is a clean and healthful city of 1,300,000
inhabitants. It presents a pleasing and attractive
appearance from the many large parks scattered
throughout the city. The largest of these was for-
127

128 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
merly a vast hunting-ground for royalty, now it is
transformed into a pleasure-garden for the public —
appearing almost in a state of nature, except for the
winding walks all through it. It is under the special
charge of the emperor, and no tree can be cut without
special permit.
There are many extensive institutions of learning
here, and a large number of American students.
The Polytechnic Institute is on a grand scale. There
is also a very large military academy. The last-
named is an important feature in Germany. The
military discipline is rigid, thorough, and univer
sal, which renders the German army well-nigh in
vincible. Berlin, like all other European cities, has its com
plement of royal palaces. In the ball-room of one
of these palaces is a stand for the orchestra near
the ceiling. This stand was formerly constructed of
solid silveir, but, in the time of Frederick the Great,
the country was impoverished on account of war, and
this grand piece of workmanship was sold to obtain
money, and replaced by one of imitation silver. In
this palace is a Hall of Victory, filled with trophies of
the different wars in which Germany has been en
gaged. Napoleon I. was stripped of all his decora
tions by the Germans, and they are collected here.
There is an extensive picture-gallery in Berlin —
Dutch, Flemish, and 'Italian schools being represented.
One painting in particular, that left a lasting impres
sion on my mind, was the raising of J aims' daughter
from the dead. If I could describe the bed of death —

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 29
the white drapery so soft and rich you can seem to
feel the texture ; the lovely girl lying there, with the
light of coming life dawning In the heavy eye as the
head stirs on the pillow, her eyes fastened on the face
of Christ, who stands with benignant mien invoking
the presence of life in the lovely frame. A look of
amazement blended with fear is depicted on the dark
face of the father, and one of deepest solicitude and
tenderness on the face of the mother, bending motion
less above her as the life-blood begins once more to
stir in her veins at the command of Christ. Oh,
that all might see these wonderful creations, which
awaken as we gaze thoughts that otherwise might
forever have slumbered ! Truly that which appeals
to the eye soonest reaches the heart.
At the Royal Museum are collected together most
of the relics belonging to the royal family since the
time of the Great Elector, the father of Frederick the
Great. One room is devoted to the old Emperor
William. All written testimonials to him received
from other countries are found here in almost every
language on earth. Also presents received by him ;
the toys used by him in babyhood and childhood ;
the cradle in which he was rocked, looking like a deep
oval basket, with a top which parts in the middle and
draws back each way, like the old-fashioned calashes
we used to wear ; the whole covered with green silk
puffed on, and empty — but for a faded bunch of
laurel tied with a ribbon. Among other rooms is one
containing relics and mementos of Frederick the
Great. Here is a figure of himself in terra-cotta, life-

130 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
size, and clothed as in life. He was of small stature
and slender physique. Here is the skin of his favor
ite war-horse, stuffed and mounted ; the rest of the
body, together with that of his favorite dog, are buried
under flat marble slabs in the grounds of the palace
of Sans Souci at Potsdam. In his will he gave direc
tions that he should be buried with his dog and horse,
but his commands were not obeyed.
In this museum is shown a massive round table,
formerly in the palace of St. Cloud, on which Napo
leon III. wrote the declaration of war with Germany ;
this was the only thing saved by the Prussians during
the bombardment of St. Cloud by the French after
it fell into the hands of the Germans.
We visited the church where lies the body of
Frederick the Great, enclosed in a sarcophagus, and
covered with wreaths of laurel, still placed there at
each anniversary of his death by members of the
royal family.
The beer-gardens, or summer-gardens, are without
number, and a visit to Berlin is not complete without
seeing this phase of life in Germany as represented
here. The crowd is enormous. In the one we visi
ted there were at least five hundred persons. The
ground is pebbled ; the garden is roofed with a slid
ing dome of glass, now entirely open ; there is plenty
of beer, noisy chat, and laughter. It is one of the
sights of Berlin. All nations are represented here :
Prussians, French, English, Americans, Poles, Chi
nese, Austrians, — all jostle against each other, and the
mingled sound of their voices is like nothing else on
earth.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 13 '
During our stay in Berlin we make an excursion
by rail to Potsdam, one of the environs of the city.
Here is the favorite palace of old Kaiser Wilhelm,
built at his own expense.* We saw here the chair in
which it was his custom to sit when holding audi
ence with his prime-ministers. This chair was made
by his own son, Frederick, who, in his youth, learned
the trade of a cabinet-maker. Most German princes,
from time immemorial, have learned some trade. We
saw the emperor's bedroom, with its narrow, plain,
soldier-like bed, the walls covered with pictures of
battle-scenes. The grounds immediately surrounding
the palace are beautifully ornamented, but the bulk
of the vast park in which it stands appears to be
in almost a state of nature ; that seems to have been
the emperor's object and study, and but for the wind
ing walks through it, and the occasional openings he
has caused to be made by cutting out the trees, in
order to obtain views of the river below and the
surrounding country, one might almost imagine him
self in a natural piece of woodland and jungle.
This feature seems peculiar to the whole of Berlin,
and we understand it is in accordance with the em
peror's desires. Great parks scattered through the
city, all with this appearance of wildness and nature
in her freedom, but, unlike strips of woodland we see
in the country, all bare of grass except in patches,
here is a beautiful velvety carpet of brilliant green,
* Emperor William died March g, 1888, after a reign of twenty-eight years ;
his son Frederick, who succeeded him, died about three months after his royal
father. Emperor Frederick's son William now occupies the throne of Germany.

132 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
renewed every year by turning over the soil and
sowing anew — a gigantic undertaking, apparently,
but thought nothing of here, where labor is so cheap
and plentiful.
We next visit the palace of Frederick the Great,
called " Sans Souci," but my pen seems powerless
to give any idea of the magnificence apparent here.
Not even among the potentates of the far Eastern
world, which it was our privilege to visit a few years
ago, did we see any thing to exceed the splendor of
this palace. It is unoccupied, and remains almost
exactly as he left it ; even an elegant clock, standing
in the room in which he died, and which It was his
custom to wind at night, stands with hands point
ing to the early morning hour at which it stopped —
almost at the time its owner's heartbeats stopped.
He was great in statesmanship, great in military
skill and valor, great in intellectual ability, master of
the fine arts, poet, musician, painter, taking as his
most intimate friend Voltaire, whose portrait, painted
by his own hand, still hangs on his palace walls.
It is said that he and Voltaire were always sparring
in an amicable way. Voltaire was thin, wiry, of a.
nervous and restless temperament, fond of novelty in
his surroundings ; and the story is related that, taking
advantage of the time when Voltaire was absent from
the palace, Frederick the Great designed and had
carried into execution an entirely new arrangement
and decoration of Voltaire's room in the palace,
which we were shown.
The walls are decorated with carvings in wood of

SANS SOUCI, POTSDAM.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 133
running vines and flowers, hanging in festoons, and col
ored to imitate nature. Amid these vines are perched
birds of different kinds, which Frederick the Great
thought typical of Voltaire's character. Here is the
owl — emblematical of his wisdom ; the parrot — of his
everlasting loquacity ; the stork — of his migratory
proclivities and love of change ; the peacock — of his
pride and hauteur ; the rabbit — of his fondness for
nibbling at tid-blts at all hours of the day. Hanging
from the centre of the room Is a candelabrum of the
finest porcelain, in form and color like a mass of
vines and flowers, of wonderful beauty. Voltaire evi
dently thought this was holding the mirror up to
nature with a vengeance, for, it is said, he never quite
forgave his royal companion.
On a writing-desk in a room of this palace still lies
the original manuscript of a poem which Frederick
the Great was engaged in writing in French, that
being the language of his youth, and which he pre
ferred to German. There are the marks of Voltaire's
pencil as he corrected one or two lines ; and this ap
parently trifling Incident brings these two renowned
personages before us more vividly than any thing else
here. The closely written sheet — the pen carelessly
laid down by its side — the hurried pencilling of Vol
taire, as he has drawn his pencil through a line and
substituted another : we seem almost in their very
presence. In another palace here, also built by Frederick the
Great, is a room called the Shell Room. The ceiling
is vaulted, and running through the room are several

134 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
rows of massive columns of malachite ; wound round
these spirally are bands of colored shells and precious
stones, set in a sort of stucco-work. Some oyster
shells are used here with the pearl still within. The
walls are also one mass of shellwork and precious
stones ; amber, lapis-lazuli, amethyst, garnet, cor
nelian, opal, mother-of-pearl, onyx, topaz, are here
used in reckless profusion. The whole is like a vision
from the Arabian Nights.
With Frederick the Great, to design was to execute,
and there seemed no limit to his reckless extrava
gance. When he commenced the building of this
palace he bought up all the lands around, and con
nected with this is an interesting bit of history.
Some land which he desired was owned by a miller,
who had a windmill which he used for grinding
grain, thereby earning a livelihood. He would not
sell to Frederick the Great, and when the palace was
built and the trees set out, it interfered with the
miller's business by shutting off the wind, so that the
mill stopped. The miller commenced suit against
Frederick for damages, and won the suit, and Fred
erick was compelled to elevate the windmill that it
might catch the wind once more, and there the
miller continued his labors till he died. After his
death the miller's family presented the mill to the
city, to stand as a monument of justice ; and there it
stands to-day uplifted high above all the surrounding
country on an artificial mound. Justice, sublime in
her attributes — towering grandly above crown and
sceptre !

THE WINDMILL, POTSDAM.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 135
It seems the general opinion throughout Germany
that her troubles with France are not yet over.
They say that they hold themselves in readiness for
any move France may make ; that she is restless and
dissatisfied, and needs another good sound whipping
before she will become quiescent.
Germany is great, but has become great through
military conquests, and her greatness must be main
tained by them. But much of her greatness and
power to-day are due to the efforts of the presiding
genius of the empire, and no more able and brilliant
statesman can Europe boast of at the present day
than Bismarck. But the sun of his life is setting,
e'en though it be in splendor. What the destinies of
Germany will be after it sinks from sight — who can
tell?

CHAPTER XVIL
THE GERMAN EMPIRE {continued^  BOHEMIA.
Peculiarities of the Country as Seen by Rail — Dresden, the Capital of Saxony
— Augustus the Second's Sleigh-Ride — The Green Vaults — The King ;
What 's in a Name — Prague, Bohemia — A Nation Conquered but not
Subdued.
It is a distance of about one hundred miles from
Berlin to Dresden. The country, as we move slowly
along— for express trains here do not mean what
they do in America, — seems flat, not very productive,
but every Inch Is made the most of.
No machinery is used here in farming ; mowing,
reaping, and binding of sheaves are all done by hand,
by men and women who work in the fields together.
We saw one woman driving an ox team, with the
wagon filled with grain, and a man riding on top.
One peculiar feature of the landscape all through
Germany is the windmills, — we see them in all direc
tions ; they are used for grinding grain, as wind is
cheaper than steam or water, for " it whistles itself,"
and economy is the watchword of the German and
the secret of the prosperity and power of the nation.
We see many peat bogs, with the peat cut and piled
up for fuel. On nearing Dresden the face of the
country changes ; it is more rolling, rocky, and
picturesque. 136

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 137
The whole country is well wooded, and always will
be, for trees must always be replanted as soon as cut ;
this is a law, and if it were enforced in America
would prove a lasting benefit to the country where
the forests are recklessly hewn down and never re
newed. Although it may not prove noticeable to us
in the present generation, yet in generations to come
it must necessarily have an effect on the climate, and
prove detrimental to the agricultural interests of our
country. Let us take a lesson from Germany.
Our hotel at Dresden, " Belle Vue," is rightly
named, for a most lovely landscape is spread before
our eyes from its broad balconies.
Dresden looks like an older city than Berlin. It
is the capital of the Kingdom of Saxony, and is styled
the German Florence. It is divided into two parts
by the River Elbe. This river is navigable, large
steamboats plying up and down. It has a population
of 245,515 souls, and is a great art centre — Its picture-
gallery ranking among the finest In Europe. Dresden
was greatly improved during the reign of Augustus
II., called " Augustus the Strong," in the seventeenth
century. This monarch bore a strong resemblance to
Louis XIV. in his fondness for display and reckless
extravagance. It is related of him that on one oc
casion during the summer season he took a fancy for
a sleigh-ride, and so ordered the road covered with
sugar from Dresden to Moritzberg, an hour and a
half ride, and drove his sleigh through it. He was
also possessed of immense muscular power, and in
the museum here we saw a horseshoe which he broke

138 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
in two pieces with his hands. It is preserved here as
an example of his great strength.
At the Royal Palace the chief treasures of Dresden
are to be seen. Here are the Green Vaults, in which
is the most magnificent collection of jewels in the
world. Here we saw the crown jewels, royal plate,
swords and daggers of silver set with one solid mass
of gems. Here were diamonds by the handful ; case
after case filled with them, of all sizes, and set in
all conceivable forms. The whole room seemed
ablaze with light as they flashed upon us from all
sides. We visited a large establishment for the manufacture
of the famous Dresden china or porcelain. This china
was invented by Bottager, a chemist, in 1707.
The Royal Library contains the finest and perhaps
the largest collection we have ever seen. The history of
all the countries in the world, both ancient and modern,
is to be found here, an entire room being devoted to
each country. In one room, bearing the inscription
over the entrance " America," is collected its entire
history from its discovery to the present day. Among
other works we saw Grant's " Memoirs." We are
shown here the original manuscript of " Faust " ; also
copies of the London Times from its inception to the
present day, and numberless other interesting things.
The history of the world is contained within these
walls ; but we cannot dive beneath the surface — we
must simply skim over it in all these visits while in
Europe. Whether we shall get the cream in these
skimmings, is open to doubt. At one of the mu-

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 139
seums we are shown china which is over one thou
sand years old. Dresden is also famous for its auto
matic musical instruments. We saw here musical
cigar-cases, work-boxes, hat-racks, and one tiny bird
looking like life perched on a twig, which opened its
mouth in the most natural manner and with sweetest
melody. The price of this tiny singer was 500
marks, or about $125. We also listened to music by
telephone. We visited the festival held annually in Dresden.
The principal amusement was archery, and each suc
cessful marksman was heralded by a roll of drums.
There were refreshment booths, dancing booths,
merry-go-rounds, country swains and their sweet
hearts, — the same as at all fairs, but typical of German
life. We attended the Royal Opera ; the king was
present. At the conclusion of the first act, the
audience rose en masse, and turning round, so as to
face the royal box, made acknowledgment of his
presence. But he is comparatively an insignificant
personage ; in all things he is subservient to the
Emperor of Germany. He has not even as much
power as the governor of a State in America ; and
many of the so-called kingdoms here in Europe are
but empty titles ; a mere sinecure, with none of the
pomp or power of ancient days.
Prague, Bohemia.
The ride by rail from Dresden to Prague is de
lightful. The road lies nearly the whole distance
along the shores of the beautiful River Elbe, which

I40 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
are bold and flanked by rocks covered with old ruined
castles. At intervals the face of the country appears moun
tainous, and between the mountains are deep glens,
reminding us of the canyons of the Rocky Moun
tains, though on a smaller scale ; sometimes these
glens are wide, and little villages straggle along
through them.
Prague is a very ancient city, and though often un
visited by the tourist, yet is very interesting. The
public buildings are massive and grand in appearance,
but look dark and discolored by time.
There is one cathedral here commenced in the
thirteenth century by Emperor Charles I. He died
before its completion, and it stood in an unfinished
state for five hundred years. Sixteen years ago work
was again commenced on it, and is still in progress.
It is of matchless grandeur in its appearance. Only
think of work on a building ceasing for five hundred
years, and then being commenced again ; but in these
older parts of Europe it is not an uncommon thing.
The streets of Prague are narrow, and the people
walk in them, as the sidewalks are nothing but a
narrow strip of flag-stone, not much wider than a
door-sill. The River Moldau divides the city into
two parts. The city is built on several hills, and the
streets are- very steep. It has belonged to Austria
since 1648, the close of the Thirty Years' War.
The inhabitants speak Bohemian and German, and
both are taught in the schools. The emperor comes
here but seldom, — once in three or four years.

CATHEDRAL AT PRAGUE.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. HI
The windows of the houses here are double and
about six inches apart ; the intervening space of the
sill is invariably adorned with a soft cushion running
its entire length, on which people lean their elbows
as they look out from the upper windows.
The famous Bohemian glass is manufactured here.
That which we buy in our own country Is only the
middle grade ; the finest is not sent there. It is
beautiful beyond description. We saw some speci
mens inlaid with the Bohemian garnet ; also some in
pink and other delicate colors, that looked as if decor
ated with figures and lines of hoar-frost. The Bohe
mian garnets are extensively purchased by strangers.
The people are very industrious, and in fact, as
we travel through these countries by rail every where
we see toilers. At the railway stations we see women
barelegged, and with cotton skirt, and handkerchief
over their heads, with tremendous baskets, which they
carry by means of a leather band across the forehead.
They are going to or returning from the town, where
they sell the produce they raise by the hardest kind
of work on their little strips of land. We think our
own poor have a hard time of it, but the wife of the
poorest laborer In our own country lives like a queen,
compared to the condition of these poor creatures
here. They toil in the fields all day long, dragging
heavy loads, reaping, mowing, and pitching hay ; and
then go home at night, where their supper consists
principally of black bread.
Bohemia, though conquered by the Austrians, was
not subdued ; she still aspires, in secret, to the dignity

142 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
of a crown and kingdom of her own once more. The
race is a phlegmatic one, and their choler is lasting.
Only the knowledge of her own impotency keeps
Bohemia in check. In fact, the rumblings of dis
satisfaction are heard in minor tones in many parts
of Europe, and may at any time burst forth. Thrones
have unstable foundations nowadays ; and far from
this being a sign of anarchy, it is rather an indication
of the advanced spirit of the age : the more rapid the
progress in intelligence and power of thought, the
more does the crown become a factor in the govern
ment, instead of a motor.

CHAPTER XVIII.

AUSTRIA.

Discomforts of Railway Travel in Europe — On the Blue Danube — Vienna, the
Gayest and Most Beautiful City in Europe — Innsbruck — The
Tyrolean Alps, Famous in Song and Story.
The distance from Prague to Vienna is about two
hundred and fifty-six miles. We pass through a
charming section of country ; but railway traveling is
much more fatiguing in Europe than in America.
Although this is called an express train, yet it moves
slowly compared to our own splendidly equipped
trains on our great roads. In point of railway
system they are far behind us. The road-beds are
rough, and the running-gear so faulty that the jolting
one gets in a ride of a few hours is something
dreadful. Even in the first-class cars there is no way
of getting air except to lower a window close to one's
face, and take all the dust and cinders, which soon
form a thick coating over every thing.
I can but compare these accommodations with our
luxurious, noiseless, swift-rolling palaces on wheels ;
with their upper ventilators, their fine wire screens,
their easy, restful lounging-chairs, where one can turn
and move about, relieving the tired muscles. But
here one position must be maintained. You are put
143

144 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
into a seat fenced off from your neighbor, like an
opera chair, with an upholstered back that hollows
where it should bulge and bulges where it should
hollow ; your head (If you happen to be tall) is bent
forward at an angle of about forty-five degrees — a
fine position for a long ride ! Besides, you are liable
to have all sorts of company on the road, unless you
give the conductor a fee, when he will give you the
carriage all to yourself as far as he goes. All through
Germany the men come into the carriages where the
ladies are, and commence smoking ; it is the custom,
but they always have the courtesy to stop if they find
It distasteful. The German women live In such an
atmosphere of smoke and beer all the time they don't
mind it.
Vienna presents the finest appearance of any city
we have yet seen in Europe. There Is an idea of
spaciousness here which is lacking in other cities. It
may be called the " city of magnificent distances," for
the avenues, broad and beautiful, stretch away,
straight as an arrow, in every direction. Immense
open squares are scattered all through the city. It is
built on a flat on the banks of the Danube. A canal
has been opened out of the river, which runs through
the city, for the purpose of drainage. It looks always
muddy and dark, but does not render the city very
unhealthy because of its swift current. The popula
tion is 1,500,000. The city is now supplied with
good water, which is brought from the mountains, a
distance of nearly eighty English miles. Previous to
this the water of the Danube was used for drinking

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 145
purposes, and the mortality was much greater than
at present. A stupendous project was successfully
carried to its completion here a few years ago, viz.,
the construction of a new channel for the Danube.
Before this the river used to overflow its banks, and
much of the city was inundated, especially the Prater,
or public gardens ; now there are embankments on
each side, and the river is kept in its place. The
Prater is on a vast scale. Every thing is found here
for the amusement of the people : dancing halls,
music halls, theatre, refreshment gardens, etc. ; there
seems no end to them. These are for the plebeian ;
the aristocracy has its quarters at the other end of the
park, where its amusements are served up in a more
refined and expensive manner. Sunday is the day
of days for seeing the common people enjoying their
day of pleasure. The laborer will work all the week
in order that he may have plenty of money to spend
on Sunday. The people are as fond of amusement
as the French.
The Royal Riding School will well repay a visit.
Here we see beautiful Arabian horses being put
through their paces, drilled and trained, so as to be
in readiness for their royal masters. The empress
visits this place often for riding ; she is a well-known
equestrienne, and fond of all out-of-door amusements.
In one of the parks here we saw a famous piece
of sculpture : Canova's master-piece, in Carrara mar
ble carved out of one solid piece, " Civilization Crush
ing out Barbarism." Barbarism is represented as a
Centaur, with the body of a horse and the head of a

146 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
man. Civilization is represented as a man of Hercu
lean proportions and strength, with one foot pressing
into the chest of the monster Barbarism, whom he is
forcing backward to the earth by the power of his
mighty arm. He stands with lips close set together,
determination written in every lineament of his face,
the fingers of the outstretched arm clutching the throat
of the dying foe, whose features are distorted, mouth
open, tongue protruding, as though in the throes of
strangulation. Viewing the statue from the rear, one
may see the spine of this Centaur broken by the force
of this giant arm, and protruding through the flesh.
Every muscle in the victorious figure of Civilization
is tense, and stands out like whip-cord in the limbs ;
and even the course of the veins is plainly defined.
Every atom of strength of this mighty Hercules
is concentrated into this one act of crushing to
the earth his foe, who, as his awful form is bent
back almost doubled upon itself, stretches forth one
arm, and the fingers have closed upon the mighty
arm of Civilization in a death grip, sinking deep into
the flesh. Anatomically, it is a marvel ; artistically,
it is sublime !
The godlike power of the sculptor ! It lifts its
possessor above all others — even as the mountains,
capped with eternal snows, tower above the puny
foot-hills at their base. Canova — undying fame and
fadeless laurels — thine !
Among the churches which we visited here is one,
St. Augustine's, where in a vault are to be seen row
after row of small silver urns, and one of gold. They

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 147
contain the hearts of the royal family, from the time
of the Emperor Matthias, who died in 1618, and
whose heart was embalmed and placed in the gold
urn according to his directions. In the vaults under
neath the Capuchin Church are the tombs of all the
royal family, dating back centuries. The bodies are
each enclosed in a metallic sarcophagus of immense
bulk and magnificently wrought. Some of these are
decorated with flowers, placed there by members of
the royal family on the anniversary of their death.
Among these we see the tomb of Marie Louise,
Emperor Napoleon's last wife ; Maximilian, of Mex
ico ; and many others whose names are familiar to us
in history. We shall not soon forget the visit here.
All the pomp and power of Austria, running through
hundreds of years, gathered here into — what ? A
handful of dust ! What a symbol of the world's
greatness !
The emperor has a summer palace about four
miles out of the city. This was built by the Em
press Maria Theresa one hundred and twenty years
ago. The entire interior presents a magnificent ap
pearance ; one room being decorated entirely in
Florentine mosaics — floor, walls, and ceiling. Maria
Theresa had fourteen children ; one of them was
Marie Antoinette, whose after-life was so shrouded
in gloom, though in her childhood she basked in the
sunlight of royal splendor.
The royal stables in the city are on a grand scale.
There are three hundred and fifty horses — the real
blue-bloods, — and line after line of carriages, from the

148 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
coronation carriage drawn by eight white horses,
with postilions and outriders, down to the plainer
ones for guests. The royal carriages are resplendent
in gold and crimson velvet, and decorated with oil
paintings. The harnesses are of velvet, gold, and
silver. In the royal palace are the crown jewels — Eng
land's are nothing compared to these ; but one must
see them to appreciate them. But the sight of all
this pomp and splendor and wealth of luxury weighs
heavily on our democratic heads, and we fain would
get out into God's free air once more, unfettered by
the presence of a plumed hat and a sheathed sword,
which meet one at every turn, as one wanders through
these royal domains.
The Emperor of Austria is considered the richest
monarch in Europe, and Vienna one of the gayest
and most brilliant cities. But, in one respect, the
Viennese, and in fact the whole of Austria, are behind
the times, and that is, in their ignorance of, and inat
tention to, the laws of hygiene. But little thought has
ever been given to this subject ; the gay Viennese
caring more for show than for considerations of
health ; spending millions on luxurious buildings,
while seemingly nobody thinks of the pestilential
smells of the River Wien running through the city,
not much better than a common sewer, close to the
walls of some of the palaces. But their eyes are
being opened ; a hygienic congress was held last
September, attended by representatives from many
parts of Europe, who have given much time and

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 149
thought to this subject, and measures were taken
to act upon the suggestions at that time offered.
Innsbruck.
It is a long ride of fourteen hours by rail from
Vienna to Innsbruck. Innsbruck is a picturesque
little town in the Tyrolean Alps, in the western part
of the Austrian Empire, seemingly guarded by the
lofty mountains surrounding it. It is a very old city.
We are shown an ancient palace with a little project
ing balcony whose roof is solid gold. It was built by
" Frederick of the Empty Pocket," as he was called.
He put on this roof of gold to show the public that
his pockets were not quite as empty as reported to be.
There are galleries of paintings here, museums and
armories, as in all Continental cities. There is a
monastery here where are about seven hundred
monks ; they execute wonderful carvings in wood,
famous throughout the world. They are very
wealthy, owning nearly all the lands in their vicinity,
which are rented to the farmers at low rates.
During the summer a wind-storm, called the sirocco,
sweeps through the valley. It is a hot, stifling wind,
charged with fine dust, and often sweeps roofs off the
houses; hence we see all through the country, in ex
posed high points, huge stones laid all over the roofs
to hold them down. The Tyrolese are fond of archery
and hunting ; they are also a very musical people.
The Tyrolese Chasseurs, a society of mountaineers,
have a splendid band of their own, with which the
city streets are often enlivened. They are a super-

150 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Stitious people, and the religious element is strong in
them. There is a little chapel in the mountains,
called the Chapel of the Holy Water, and to this,
pilgrimages are made on foot. It is believed that a
pilgrimage here, and their devotions, will heal them
of bodily ailments and absolve them from sin. There
are many small farms scattered through the foot-hills,
and frequently in front of the house we see a figure
of Christ on the Cross, encircled with a wreath of
flowers. This is the shrine where the family offer
their prayers.
It is a romantic region, the Tyrolean Alps, famous
in song and story. Not far from here, at Salzburg,
Mozart was born, died, and was buried there, and a
monument erected to his memory. No wonder that
his soul was attuned to divine harmonies, and we
marvel not at his inspiration, which burst forth in
melodies solemn and sweet, majestic and triumphant,
— fitting tribute to the natural grandeur amid which
his childhood was passed.
We took a drive in the mountains, ascending to a
height of three thousand feet above the town. On
our way we passed several little suburban villages.
The houses are very light in color, always with
bright-colored decorations and paintings on the out
side, representing some patron saint or some supersti
tious legend. The barn and house are all in one, like
the farm-houses in Switzerland. There are immense
out-of-door ovens at these farm-houses, which are
kept hot for days at a time, when the family bread-
baking is done up for three or four months. The
bread is shoved into the oven with a long pole.

INNSBRUCK IN THE TYROL.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. l^l
Away up the side of a mountain, almost to the top,
is a white pyramidal monument plainly visible. A
few years ago the Emperors of Germany and Austria
climbed together to that point, and this monument
was erected In commemoration of the event. To-day
a deep velvety purple bloom is over the foliage with
which the distant mountains are clothed ; in beautiful
contrast to the pale-gray of the rock where it is bare
of verdure. On the summit of one, as if cast there
by spirit hands, rests a fleecy veil of clouds. This
mountain is fifteen thousand feet high.
As we descend, the sun is sinking, and we witness
the glories of an Alpine sunset. The mountains,
dark towering masses, in the foreground ; behind
them and between their sharp crags, throwing every
outline into bold relief, the brilliant, changing colors
of the setting sun, streaming upward to the zenith.
Below, in the valley, the city, with every spire and
dome glittering in the rosy light ; the river like a
thread of silver running through the green. It is a
picture not soon to be forgotten.

CHAPTER XIX.
BAVARIA.
Munich— Art and Artists— The Wonderful Opera— The Cemetery, Strange
Customs There — Baden-Baden — Mineral Waters.
We leave Innsbruck en route for Munich, Bavaria.
It is with regret we leave the mountains. For some
distance we still have them with us, seemingly quite
near, but they are gradually lost in the distance, till
the outlines are mere shadows, and we pass swiftly on
into the open country. It is rolling and picturesque
and in the highest state of cultivation. The people
look prosperous and well-to-do — more so than in the
heart of the country in Germany. Munich, the capi
tal of Bavaria, is a city of 250,000 inhabitants. There
are more rain and gloomier skies than in most of the
other Continental cities we have seen. There are also
sudden changes of temperature against which it is
well to be guarded. It is a great art centre, and the
students of different branches of the fine arts are
numbered by thousands. There is a public library
here containing seventy rooms and ninety thousand
volumes. The Prince Regent acts as king in place of the late
demented king, who was not only very eccentric but
152

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 153
very extravagant. In his tastes he closely imitated
Louis XIV., and we were shown his carriages and
sleighs, which he used up to the time of his death,
but which looked like those owned by monarchs of
past ages. The king is buried at St. Stephen's Church
here, but no monument as yet is erected to his mem
ory. King Ludwig I., the late king's grandfather,
abdicated the throne in 1847, o" account of an
intrigue with a famous actress, Lola Montez. Years
after, she died poor and neglected. There is an im
mense picture-gallery here, built during his reign, in
which are represented the German, Dutch, Flemish,
and Italian schools.
Among many of Rubens' works here is one im
mense painting representing Christ judging the world.
Christ appears in the clouds accompanied by shadowy
troops of angel figures, beckoning with one hand to
the spirits of the redeemed to ascend to him, and
with the other pointing the way downward to Hell for
lost souls, who are represented in agony and despair
— literally translating the Bible — " there shall be
wailing and gnashing of teeth." The lurid flames
from below are seen streaming up, lighting up these
dark scowling faces and figures. The figures of the
redeemed are seen basking in the shining light radi
ating from the form of the Saviour, as with faces all
upturned toward him they ascend, guided by beckon
ing angel hands. The two phases of spiritual existence,
as we are accustomed to regard them — the glory of
Heaven, and the gloom of Hell — are vividly depicted.
It is a sermon that appeals to the imaginative mind

154 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
with wonderful power. Another painting by Rubens
represents the philosopher Seneca with veins opened,
standing in a metal basin, into which the life blood is
dropping from his veins ; his face assuming the ashen
hue of death ; a physician at one side, and kneeling
at the other his pupil, recording his dying words.
There are many paintings here by Van Dyck ; and
the works of the three world-renowned painters,
Rembrandt, Rubens, and Van Dyck, which we see
here, afford much food for thought. Their peculiar
and distinctive characteristics seem to be carried in
stinctively through all their works, and stand revealed
there — in the wonderful effects of light and shade of
Rembrandt, in the rich and glowing colors of Rubens,
and the sombre and dark tints of Van Dyck, with
their formal outlines. Paul Veronese revels in cool
lilac tints, and this color in some of its shadings in
variably appears in his productions. Raphael de
lighted in taking as a themfe the Holy Family, in
whole or in part, and his wonderful Sistine Madonna
at Dresden is the gem of all his works.
We attended the opera. In one respect a Conti
nental opera-house presents a striking contrast to our
own ; especially where the German tongue is native.
After the commencement of the overture, one must
wait till it is concluded before he can be conducted
to a seat. The Germans are devoted to music, and
think it a desecration to have the bustle and noise
of entering and being seated marring the melody of
the splendid orchestra. They never chat during an
act ; but, from the moment the curtain rises till it

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 155
falls, give their undivided attention to the stage.
The opera was Oberon, based on the wonderful
fairy-tale of Oberon and Titania. The entire mise-
en-scine was most startling and wonderful, and, to our
provincial eyes, a marvel. Of course all are familiar
with the legend. Titania, the queen of the fairies, is
Oberon's guardian angel, revealing herself to him at
all moments of danger ; suddenly appearing In the
foam of the sea ; in the black clouds of a thunder
storm, when lightning, such as flashes upon us in a
terrific storm, lights up for an instant the dense
gloom, and reveals her radiant figure emerging from
the heavy clouds, an ever-present shield and protector.
At the magic of her presence there is a lull in the
storm ; the clouds break away ; the sea is calmed ;
the setting sun is seen through a rift in the clouds,
and soon bursts into view In all its splendor, silvering
the edges of the clouds, its rays streaming out over
the dark waters. The sun sinks ; twilight deepens
into darkness ; the stars come out in the heavens —
and the wonderful Illusion is complete. The music
moves in harmony with the scenes, swelling with the
fury of the storm, then growing soft and sweet, as the
peaceful night creeps on.
The father and mother of the Empress of Austria
reside at Munich. Here is also the house which was
occupied by Wagner, the great musical composer.
He was a great favorite of the late king, who was in
the habit of having grand operas performed for him
self alone. He would allow nobody to be present ;
and it is said he went music-mad. He was the pos-

156 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
sessor of numberless musical instruments, and was
himself a very creditable performer.
A short distance out, on a height from which a
beautiful view of the city is obtained, is a statue
erected by Ludwig I., called Bavaria. It is a colossal
figure, reminding one somewhat of our own Statue
of Liberty, except that in place of holding aloft a
torch, she holds a wreath of laurel ; and the other
hand rests on the shaggy mane of a lion couchant, —
one of the symbols of the Bavarian arms.
In one of the public squares of the city is the
statue of Liebig, erected by his friends and pupils.
Around the base of the statue are figures in bas-relief
emblematical of Chemistry, Physiology, and Agricul
ture — the three sciences to which his life was devoted.
Liebig died about ten years ago. He founded the
chemical laboratory in Munich, and was a professor
in the university for many years.
But the most interesting spot of all in Munich is the
cemetery. There is a singular custom here with regard
to dead bodies. There is a building to which they are
brought after death, and left for three days, and then
buried. It is a custom inaugurated at the time of the
plague three hundred years ago. Attached to the finger
of each of these dead bodies is a cord which reaches to
the ceiling, where it connects with a bell which gives out
a sound at the slightest stir of the hand. This is to
prevent all danger of being buried alive. There are
two apartments ; one for the poorer class, and one for
the wealthy class. Through the great glass doors we
looked in upon this curious spectacle. Here were

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 157
several little children, apparently lying on couches
with white drapery, and surrounded by flowers and
evergreens ; their heads are raised on pillows exactly
as in life, and candles are burning there. Here are
also the bodies of many grown persons lying in easy
positions, appearing to be asleep in bowers of green,
and surrounded by flowers — ^not a vestige of black
being visible. Instead of being an appalling sight, as
it would be with black funereal draperies, it is ren
dered rather attractive by the beauty of the arrange
ment and decorations. It is a spectacle peculiar to
Munich, and I think nowhere else in the world.
Baden Baden, our next stopping-place, is beauti
fully situated very near the Rhine ; in fact the Rhine
borders the frontier. It is in the outskirts of the
Black Forest, the scene of so many historical ro
mances. The town is built In terraces on the slopes
of the steep hill Schlossburg. It is also surrounded
by high hills. The population is about twenty thou
sand, and it is visited by about fifty thousand people
every season. Many of the nobility of Austria, Rus
sia, and Germany have palaces here. Baden Baden
is famous for Its mineral springs ; there are thirteen
hot springs here, and the region from which they
issue is called Hell. The water is very hot, has
a salty flavor, and is impregnated with muriatic
and carbonic acids and iron. We were shown the
source of one of these springs ; a vaulted opening
in the solid rock of the mountain, covered by an iron
door. On opening it, a volume of steam came pour-

158 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
ing out, and we heard the sound of water boiling in
the bowels of the earth. This never freezes even
in the coldest winter weather, and always rushes out
boiling hot. The Grand Ducal bathing establishment
is unequalled in Europe.
On the heights overlooking the town is the Schloss,
or palace of the Grand Duke, where his ancestors have
lived for four hundred years.
Some years ago this famous resort lost its pres
tige, on account of the introduction of gambling
resorts and lotteries ; but these have been abolished,
and the town is now resuming its former status. The
products of Baden are entirely agricultural, the soil
being very fertile ; and climate and cultivation com
bined have given it the name of " The Garden of
Germany."

CHAPTER XX.
STRASBOURG AND HEIDELBERG.
Bombardment of Strasbourg — German Enterprise — The Cathedral — Heidel
berg — The Castle, the Most Magnificent Ruin in Europe —
The University.
Following the definite course which we have
marked out for ourselves in this tour through Eu
rope, Strasbourg comes next in line. Strasbourg is
the principal city of the provinces of Alsace and Lor
raine ; the Rhine is about three miles distant from
the city. It has a chequered history. Taken by
Louis XIV. in 1681, it belonged to the French until
the last war. It was then captured by the Prussians
after a bombardment of over a month. The story of
the bombardment is interesting. On the 8th August,
1870, a German officer appeared before the city with
a white flag, demanding its surrender or threatening
bombardment. This was pluckily denied, although
the city was not well garrisoned at the time, as some
of the troops had been withdrawn to other points.
On the 19th of August bombardment was com
menced, and continued till the 28th of September,
when the city surrendered. Many public buildings
were destroyed, eleven thousand soldiers killed, and
seven hundred citizens ; indeed the city was almost a
159

l6o REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
mass of ruins. Shot and shell fell and burst all
around them, and the inhabitants were obliged to
take refuge in the cellars during the siege. During
this dreadful massacre a delegation sent by the Swiss
presented themselves, offering protection to the
women and children of the city ; and about one
thousand persons passed the Prussian lines, and
were cared for in Switzerland. During this siege the
French numbered seventeen thousand and the Prus
sians three hundred thousand. Strasbourg has al
ways been considered one of the strongest fortified
towns of Europe. In addition to its fortifications
there are sluices constructed by Vauban, which when
opened will flood the country for miles around. Dur
ing the bombardment the people in the town had very
little to eat, living principally on horse flesh, while
the Prussians were enjoying the fat of the land,
taking possession of every thing before them.
We were shown the German entrenchment, just
outside the city, whence they fired their shells into the
town. Five came crashing through the roof of the
magnificent cathedral, the noblest in Europe ; the
organ was shattered and destroyed ; the flames broke
out from the roof perforated by shells, and leaped
almost to the top of the spire ; the heavens were
tinged with the red glow. The roof fell in ; the
fire died out. The next morning the floor of the
interior was covered with d6bris, and the blue sky was
the only roof The peerless structure, towering 468
feet heavenward, had trembled to its foundations, but
was miraculously preserved, and stands to-day a silent

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. l6l
witness and reminder of the death and destruction
dealt out by the blood-red hand of war. After the
Germans had captured the city they commenced the
work of restoring the cathedral, and it now stands
once more In all its ancient splendor. All traces
of that dreadful time are now obliterated. The
ruined portions of the city have been rebuilt, and in
a much more substantial and expensive manner than
before. It is a beautiful city, and seems prosperous
and thriving. After all, the Germans have done
much to Improve It, besides reimbursing all those
citizens who suffered pecuniary losses during the
siege. They have built a university, which cost
35,000,000 marks, about $7,000,000. It is built on a
grand scale, there being one main building and
several accessory — the whole occupying a large square
tract of land, in the centre of which is a splendid gar
den. Almost the entire Interior of the main building is
formed of different kinds of marble. All the arts
and sciences and languages are taught here, and the
university contains students from all parts of the
world. On the wall opposite the main entrance is a
full-length portrait of the Emperor of Germany
wearing his royal robes of crimson and ermine, a
constant reminder that France no longer wields the
sceptre here. Germany has penetrated here ; she has
conquered, and has placed on his throne here — the
emperor. A palace is being built for his occupation ;
I said to our guide (a native resident who was a
soldier in the late war) as we passed this palace :
"That looks as though the emperor meant to stay."

1 62 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
He shrugged his shoulders, and made answer : " 'T is
well for us to have all the palaces we can ; we shall
need them one of these days."
We see little buildings all along the banks of the
river running through the city, which are lavatories
where the washerwomen come to do their washings.
It is a curious sight ; they pound the clothes on a
stone, and rinse them in the water.
At the Church of St. Thomas here, is a monument
erected to the memory of the Marshal of Saxony, by
order of Louis XV., for his military valor. It is a
fine work of art by a French sculptor. There are
figures in marble, life-size, representing the marshal,
with bold and fearless mien, stepping down into his
grave. Saxony, in the form of a gracious and beauti
ful woman, is kneeling at his feet, and with uplifted
hands, seems pushing him back from the tomb, while
the grim skeleton Death crouches by the side of the
open grave, beckoning him thither. On one side of him
are the broken symbols of the conquered — the lance
and spear fallen in the dust, the flags trailing on the
ground ; on the other side are the upraised symbols
of the victorious — spear and lance proudly lifted, and
flags thrown to the breeze. It is a wonderful piece
of sculpture. In this church lies the shell that burst
through the window during the bombardment, and
fell on the stone floor, cracking it into fragments.
At 12 o'clock noon each day, the famous clock in
the cathedral may be seen in full operation. It is in the
form of three towers, the tallest in the centre. In the
top of the centre tower is the figure of Jesus Christ ;

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 63
below this in another section is the figure of Death,
surrounded by four other figures representing the four
ages of life, which in turn strike the quarter hours.
Childhood strikes the first quarter. Youth the second.
Manhood the third. Old Age the last ; Death
strikes the hour. There are two genii seated above
the perpetual calendar. As Death strikes the hour,
one of the genii turns over the hour-glass he holds in
his hand. At 12 m. precisely, the twelve apostles
march in procession past the figure of Christ, bowing
to him as they pass ; when Peter makes his appear
ance, bearing the cross and bowing to his Master, a
cock on the top of one of the side towers flaps his
wings and crows in the nost natural manner possible.
This master-piece of the i6th century was completed
in 1574; it ceased running in 1789, and was dumb
from that time till 1838, when to a distinguished
mechanician of Strasbourg was entrusted the work
of repairing it. He commenced work on it in 1838,
and finished It in 1842, making many improvements
as well as restoring the old mechanism.
In the public schools of Strasbourg, teaching the
French language is prohibited ; the signs over the
business places along the streets are nearly all in Ger
man, and gradually all traces of the French are disap
pearing — so fickle are the fortunes of war. The better
class of French people, or rather those who are in the
best condition financially, have been gradually leav
ing Strasbourg since the war, and making homes for
themselves in various parts of France ; they will not
stay under the German flag.

164 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
The German element is constantly on the increase.
They like to live here ; the country is so much more
fertile and produces so much more abundantly than
many parts of their own country. Germany renders
herself secure in her new possessions by extending
the fortifications, by keeping a standing army " of
sixteen thousand soldiers ; and everywhere in the
streets we come in contact with them, in full uni
form, knapsack and canteen filled and on their shoul
ders, in fighting order, ready at an instant's notice for
immediate action. France has small chance here for
getting back her own. But the fire is not subdued ;
't is only smouldering, and none can tell when it will
burst forth. A bitterness exists between the Germans
and the French which can only be quenched by blood.
Heidelberg.
Heidelberg (Grand Duchy of Baden) stands on the
bank of the Neckar River, in a narrow valley. On
one side rise the Odenwald Mountains, and on the
other the Black Forest. It has a great reputation
for the erudition of its university. This university
celebrated its five hundredth anniversary in 1886,
and it was made the occasion of a grand fHe lasting
ten days. There is a building in the outskirts of the
city where the students go to practise duelling. This
custom has been observed from time immemorial ;
they sometimes receive scars in the contests, but
never mortal wounds. The custom is not looked
upon with favor by the authorities, but as yet no
active measures have been taken to stop it.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 65
Heidelberg, it is said, takes its name from the
Heidelbereen, or bilberries, which abound here. It is
a very beautiful summer resort, but the winters are
long and severe. The population of the city is greatly
swollen in summer from the influx of guests.
The great point of interest is the old ruined castle,
standing on a lofty spur of the mountains, overlook
ing the city. This famous castle was founded in the
thirteenth century, and was the residence of the Pala
tine Electors. It was blown up by the French in the
Thirty Years' War, and again undermined by them
in the seventeenth century. A portion of one facade
remains intact ; designed by Michael Angelo in the
the Renaissance style of architecture. The whole of
the magnificent structure is a mass of ruins ; but
majestic in its ruins. The walls are of solid stone,
from seventeen to twenty feet thick. There are stair
cases placed here and there, so that one may explore
the whole pile. We saw the circular room in a tower
formerly the library ; the grand dining-hall used for
great files ; the open square In the basement, with
the gigantic platform where fires were kindled and
whole oxen roasted. Here are extensive wine-cellars,
and here the famous Heidelberg Tun, the largest wine-
cask in the world, made in 175 1, It is thirty-six feet
Jong and twenty-four feet in diameter, and holds
fifty thousand gallons of wine. It is said to have
been filled twice. A staircase is erected to the top
of this cask, on which a platform is laid for dancing.
On the floor above this is a pump which formerly
connected with the wine-cask below, and the wine

1 66 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
was pumped up as you would pump water out of a
cistern. Imagine the scenes of feasting and revelry
here centuries ago !
Near the wine-cask is a statue of the king's jester,
wine-cup in hand. Tradition says he used to drink
eighteen bottles of wine every day. He made a
clock, a very good clock too, which on winding
caused a spring to snap, and a fox-tail to leap up into
the face of the winder. The clock is still there. This
castle was very strongly fortified. A moat surround
ed it, which could be filled at short notice. Here are
still the remnants of the massive drawbridge. The
walls of the Powder Tower, from which the soldiers
used to survey the surrounding country, were twenty
feet thick. This tower was undermined by the French,
and fell over in an enormous mass of ruins, where
it still remains ; and the wild ivy clambers over it,
the grass and shrubs grow up in the crevices of the
ruins. Nature has thrown her lovely carpet of moss
over the stones, and, as though striving to compen
sate in some degree for the desecration, she converts
the whole mass of ruins into a thing of beauty.
There is one chamber here in comparatively good
condition, where are collected all the relics found in
the ruins : pieces of statuary, bits of carving, objets de
vertu, pieces of armor, cannon-balls and shot, and
every thing that escaped demolition. An enormous
eagle of solid silver, with outspread wings, formerly
ornamented the grand gate of entrance, but this was
torn down and taken away by the French.
We enjoyed a delightful drive in the mountains of the

HEIDELBERG CASTLE.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 67
Black Forest, ascending by winding roads to a height
of fifteen hundred feet above the city, where stands a
high tower called Konigstiihl, or king's chair, from
the summit of which one sees a vast expanse of coun
try spread out before him like a map. The Black
Forest takes its name from the black pine which
abounds there. The environs of Heidelberg are of
surpassing beauty. The town itself has little chance
to grow, crowded in, as it is, between the mountains
and the river. It is of little commercial importance ;
a quiet, peaceful old town, with primitive manners
and customs still clinging to it, proud and content in
the possession of its world-renowned university, and
also of the prominent place it holds in the world's
history, to which the grand old walls of the ruined
castle towering above it bear silent testimony.

CHAPTER XXL

along THE RHINE.

Frankfort-on-the-Main — The Market-Place — The Opera — Down the Rhine as
Compared with down the Hudson — Cologne — Church of the Eleven
Thousand Virgins — Eau de Cologne.
It is a ride of about two hours by rail from Heidel
berg to Frankfort. I am a little disappointed in Frank
fort. I had always thought of it as a romantic, pic
turesque place, gay with visitors and the social life of
the Continent ; but a more prosaic, matter-of-fact city
I have not seen. It is a place of much commercial
importance and of large wealth. It is not very beau
tiful — many cities in Germany being far more attrac
tive. It is furnished with the universal promenade —
viz., the old fortifications turned into a pleasant walk
around the city.
It has a population of 160,000. The finest pri
vate residences are in flats ; very few standing in
their own grounds. It was formerly a free city, but
was taken by the Prussians in 1866. The River
Main runs through the city and empties into the
Rhine. We were shown the house in which Goethe
was born, August 28, 1749; also a statue of him
erected in a public square. 168

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 169
The cathedral here is very fine ; it is in the form
of a Latin cross.
The market-place is also worthy of mention. The
building is very extensive and elaborate. It is inter
esting to go through here and see the vendors of all
kinds of vegetables and fruits — generally women ; to
see the great tanks of water filled with fish of all
kinds, where one may select from their native ele
ment ; to see the flower-girls, their fragrant mer
chandise piled around them, weaving garlands, and
making them into bouquets and all sorts of devices,
which look as though put together by fairy fingers,
so airy and graceful are they, while the harmony of
color and the shading of tints is something to delight
the soul of an artist. An enormous amount of traffic
is carried on in flowers daily. Many of these designs
are intended for funerals, and are bought up almost
immediately, for in these Continental cities flowers
form a prominent feature in the burial-service.
The Opera House Is the most magnificent one we
have yet seen. It Is palatial in design and decoration.
The walls of the auditorium are hung with rich
crimson, and the stalls and galleries are In dull
^old and bronze, presenting a superb effect. The
opera commences in Frankfort at 6.30 p.m. and is
over at 10 p.m. People on the Continent regard the
opera in an entirely different light from Americans.
They drop in leisurely as though into their own par
lors. In many cases there are fine gardens con
nected with the place, and the entire audience go out
in the open air between acts, and take some refresh-

I70 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
ment at hundreds of little tables in the garden. In
Frankfort, at the opera almost everybody takes sup
per in an elegant refreshment-room, as it is too early
for supper at home. A wait of fifteen minutes occurs
between certain of the acts, to admit of this practice.
From Frankfort we take the cars to Biebrich,
thence a steamer down the Rhine to Cologne. No
tour in Europe is complete without the Rhine ; no
traveler returns without a glowing description of
his or her experience on that particular occasion.
Guide-books extol its beauties, poets place them in
immortal verse, and it is the fashion to rhapsodize
over " the trip down the Rhine." But I find that in
variably where my expectations are raised to the
highest pitch, at fever heat, if one may say so, the
reality fails to satisfy. The Rhine is not clear, but
presents a muddy, turbid appearance ; and the cur
rent is not generally swift. There are numberless
ruined castles on the rocky heights along the river.
We do not see many very bold bluffs at first, but as
we advance the scenery grows more picturesque.
The river winds around like a serpent ; at times
the curve is so abrupt that the river is com-
letely lost to view for a few moments. There are
small villages scattered along the shores. Conspicu
ous in all these hill-side villages are the little chapels,
surmounted by their glittering crosses, and the con
vents and monasteries. They are a very devout peo
ple, with a strong element of superstition, engendered
and fostered by the secluded and romantic region
which gave them birth. The chief article of produce

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 17'
of course, is the wine. The hill-sides and every availa
ble inch of ground are covered with the grape-vine,
and at the distance we view the shores from our
steamer, the vines appear to form but a thin covering
for the bare hill-sides, which are entirely stripped of
their forests ; and hence the shores generally do not
present so beautiful an appearance as those of our
own Hudson, for where utility steps in, beauty
often steps out, especially in landscape views. Along
the Highlands of the Hudson the heights are cov
ered with the natural forests in all their luxuriance
and beauty, with here and there lovely vistas opened
through. In our own country, where we are so del
uged with gifts from God's gracious hand, we have no
need to utilize every available inch of land, and so
its beauty remains ; and it will probably be many
years before every nook and corner is sought out
and made the most of as they are here. We see
many large steamers, all well filled, for it is the
season for " doing the Rhine."
At Coblenz a bridge of boats extends across the
river, connecting the town with a little town opposite.
We pass " Bingen, fair Bingen on the Rhine," over
which Mrs. Hemans waxed so eloquent in one of her
poems. We arrive at Cologne about 5 p.m. The day
has been most fair, and the auspices under which we
see the Rhine for the first time, most favorable.
Cologne has a population of 161,000. The city
presents rather an imposing appearance, but the
streets of the old part are very narrow and dark.
The old fortifications form a spacious promenade, and

172 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
just outside this is the most beautiful part of the city ;
a magnificent boulevard stretches far out, lined its
entire length with palatial residences.
The Church of Saint Ursula, the patron saint of
Cologne, has an interesting history. About the time
of the introduction of Christianity into Britain, which
was then subject to the Roman Emperor, war was
made upon the people, and they sought refuge in
various parts of the Continent, — some along the
Rhine. Among those who came to Cologne were
the eleven thousand virgins of whom we read in his
tory, with St. Ursula at their head, she being a living
example of Christian piety and virtue. But soon the
barbarian. King Attila, with his troops, a people
called the Huns, who were invading the country,
pillaging and destroying, reached Cologne, and, after
a short siege, captured the city ; and then com
menced the dreadful scenes that follow upon a bar
barian conquest. Christianity was reviled, and those
who would not renounce it were tortured and
murdered. These eleven thousand women remained constant
to their religion, for which they were all massacred.
After the Huns retired from Cologne, the few of the
inhabitants who remained, ventured back into the city,
to meet this terrible sight. The bodies of these women
were all buried in the large field in which they met their
death, and afterward, when Cologne was rebuilt, the
feeling of veneration for these martyrs resulted in a
church being built on the place of martyrdom, dedi
cated to them. Their bones were all collected together

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 173
and placed in this church in glass cases. It is a curious
sight ; many of the skulls are preserved, and the
walls of one room are lined with these skulls. Their
hideousness is somewhat destroyed, as the front, just
below the forehead, is covered with an embroidered
piece, made by the nuns. Many of the skulls are
dented in, as by a blow of a club ; sometimes gashed
and cleft apart.
The arrangement of all these bones Is most strange.
The long bones form diamond-shaped squares on the
walls, and these squares so formed are filled in with
the little bones, so that at a little distance it looks like
an elaborate piece of decoration, and the casual ob
server would scarcely know of what it was composed.
It is a place once seen never to be forgotten — but a
ghastly, ghostly place, which we leave with a feeling
of relief
During our stay in the city we are constantly be
sieged with offers of cologne. Of course we buy
some of Varina's ; but this investment proved our
bite noire during all the rest of our tour through
Europe. The persevering custom-house officers
dived into our trunks for the suspicious bottles at
every point, and, fishing them out from the most
concealed recesses (as we flattered ourselves), would
hold them up triumphantly in our faces. There was
nothing to do but to satisfy their demands, or give up
the cologne. A small quantity only is allowed free.
The Cologne Cathedral is the highest in Europe ;
the two towers rising to a height of five hundred and
twelve feet. It is a Gothic structure, and one of the

174 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
sights of Europe. But we are seeing so continually in
our travels these grand specimens of architecture ;
myriads of celebrated paintings jostling against each
other, as though clamoring for room ; pieces of
statuary, veritable dreams in marble ; kingly palaces,
whose gorgeous and costly decorations put to flight
our wildest ideas of extravagance and magnificence ;
— I say, seeing these so continually, I sometimes think
the keen edge of appreciation is blunted, and we are
weighed down by what the French call an embarras
de richesses.
But 't is all within the grasp of the traveler to-day ;
it may not be to-morrow ; hence he must be quick to
perceive, quick to reflect, quick to arrive at conclu
sions; these are the qualifications of the successful
traveler.

CHAPTER XXII.
HOLLAND.
Amsterdam — House-Building under Difficulties — Holland Dykes — The Hague
— The House in the Wood — Scheveningen, a Seaside Resort — Bathing
Wagons — Rotterdam — Fighting the North Sea.
A RIDE of six hours by rail, and we find ourselves
among still another people — the Hollanders. Am
sterdam, the capital of Holland, is a queer city.
There is nothing exactly like it in the world. The
whole city is built on piles, which are driven down
through the loam till they reach a firm bed of sand.
This substructure is often as expensive as the super
structure, which renders all building very costly here ;
besides, the city is in constant danger of being under
mined by wood-worms. There is an extensive sys
tem of bridges, canals, and dykes for keeping the
water in its place, so that the city shall not be flooded ;
but with all this care and labor the buildings all look
out of the perpendicular, and some seem to lean for
ward and to be almost ready to topple over ; but
nobody seems to mind it. Like the people who live
in the. region of Vesuvius, they have got used to it.
In order to render the buildings more secure, iron
bars are run inside from one to another in the same
block. 175

176 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
The canals intersect the city in every direction,
dividing it into ninety islands, which are connected
by three hundred bridges. The water in these canals
is about three feet deep, and below this is a bed of
mud about the same thickness. One would naturally
suppose the city would be filled with malaria ; but
to prevent this, the water is constantly renewed by
an arm of the North Sea Canal, while the mud is
removed by dredges. Along these canals are planted
rows of elms, each side the avenue, that invariably
runs parallel with the canal, which give the city a
pleasant and attractive appearance.
The Holland dykes are the great centre of interest
for travelers. They are very extensive, and are built
to prevent the Zuider-zee, which connects with the
North Sea, from flooding the face of the country, as
the land is below its level. Along these dykes are
steam-pumps, by which the water from the Ij River is
pumped into the Zuider-zee when it is too high. In
fact, here eternal vigilance is the price, not of liberty,
but of life.
The city seems like a second Venice. The peasants
from the different provinces each have a distinct cos
tume, and they lend a picturesque appearance to the
streets of the city.
Amsterdam has a world-wide reputation for its
diamond mills, where stones are cut and polished.
It has a fine harbor ; large ocean steamers come in
here, and large steamers sail from here for various
parts of the world.
The Hague is far superior to Amsterdam in point

OLD CANAL, AMSTERDAM.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. ^77
of beauty. It is the favorite place of residence of the
king, and always has been of the nobility, which fact
lends to the town its air distingue.
It has a population of one hundred and forty
thousand. We see here canals the same as in Am
sterdam, and much the same system of preventing
inundations as there.
The avenues are broad, extending in straight lines,
lined with handsome residences, and beautified by
small parks or squares, which are brilliant with flowers.
A pleasant drive of a mile and a half through a vast
park called " The Wood," and we reach the palace of
the late queen, called " The House In the Wood."
The wife of the present king died there. It is said
that the king has never entered the palace since. He
has a young wife now about twenty-six years old ; the
king himself is now seventy-two, and has been de
mented for some time. Consequently the reins of
government are in the hands of his parliament and
judiciary. This palace is unpretentious in exterior
appearance, but some of the rooms are of unparal
leled magnificence. One room is called the Chinese
room, the walls of which are hung with gorgeous
embroideries, on white satin, of birds and flowers.
Another is called the Japanese room, decorated in
much the same fashion in Japanese. It must have
been the labor of many years to complete the cover
ings for the walls of these rooms. The furniture in
one of the rooms is of white satin, embroidered ; the
work was executed by the ladies of the Hague, and
presented to the late queen. The Orange saloon

178 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
has walls and furniture covered with the deepest
orange brocaded satin, orange being the color of
Holland On the return drive, we witnessed a military review.
It was a very beautiful sight, with the glittering lines
of steel, and the shining helmets in the full light of
the morning sun. Holland has a standing army of fifty
thousand men.
In all our drives through this region we notice the
same peculiar odor, which comes from the semi-stag
nant water in canals and ditches all over the city ; a
thick green scum is over many of these, and we see
men at work, standing in little boats, skimming off
this thick matter, and loading it on the boats.
There are many elegant villas in the suburbs,
standing in lovely flower-gardens, but in nearly every
case flanked on one side or the other by a ditch or
small canal of stagnant water. This leads one to
think that the law of adaptation might be called one
of the greatest of nature's laws ; for otherwise the
inhabitants of this low sunken country must suffer
from the necessarily foul exhalations rising from such
a volume of muddy water. A plant thrives best in
its native soil, and so do animals and men. The
people all certainly look healthy, with clear, fresh
complexions and vigorous physique.
The old prison here, which was in use in the days
of the Spanish Inquisition, is filled with relics of
that dreadful time when Holland was under Spanish
rule. Here is a block, four hundred years old, used for

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 79
beheading people. It is said that three thousand
men have been beheaded upon it, and it is marked
and gashed with the blows that it has received. A
Catholic priest who embraced the Protestant religion
was imprisoned here, and finally put to death. He
was kept in the cell six months, then taken out and
burned to death. While imprisoned here, at the last,
he used to pierce his flesh, causing the blood to flow,
and then used it to paint devices on the wall, and
there they are to this day, figures and inscriptions
painted with his life-blood. Other poor wretches
were put in here and starved to death in full view of
food beyond their grasp. Here is a small furnace
where the iron was heated to a white heat, and then
the prisoners were branded on the back. Many
other terrible instruments of torture are here, relics
of that barbarous age.
There is a fine picture-gallery in the city, containing
mostly the works of Dutch painters. Among them is
a Rembrandt which greatly interested us. It repre
sents a group of doctors about to dissect a dead body,
and is called : " A Study of Anatomy," The peculiar
hue of death in the dead body as it lies prone on the
dissecting-table, contrasted with the glow of life and
animation in the faces of the living as they bend over
it, is marvellous to behold.
Three miles distant from the Hague is a fishing
village, Scheveningen, on the coast of the North Sea,
This is a great resort for sea-bathing in the summer,
and it is estimated that at least twenty thousand visi
tors come here during the season. There are several

l8o REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
elegant hotels and boarding-houses for their accom
modation. There are hundreds of queer-looking
basket-chairs, dotted around on the sands, which look
like a big oval clothes-basket turned up on end. In
side is a nice seat, where one may sit and while away
the morning, sheltered from wind and sun. There
are also covered bathing-wagons for ladies, which are
furnished with toilet-rooms inside. They are pulled
out into the surf, and from the wagon the lady de
scends to the water, always with one or two attend
ants, and afterward she steps up into the wagon
again, which is then drawn back on to the sands.
Inside she leisurely makes her toilet, and comes out
spick and span in full promenade costume once more.
No lank, dripping, forlorn-looking figures stealing
across the sands to the bathing-houses — running the
gauntlet of hundreds of critical eyes. It is a great
invention, and much appreciated.
Rotterdam, another of the principal cities of Hol
land, has a population of 1 70,000. It is situated on
the Maas River, about fourteen miles from the North
Sea. There is an immense amount of shipping in
the harbor ; about 4,000 vessels enter here annually.
There is the same system of canals and bridges
here to be found as in the other cities of Holland.
It is not a beautiful city, but one of large commercial
importance. In passing through the streets we notice
on almost every house of any pretensions a little
swinging mirror, made in two parts, and set at an
angle from the second or third-story window. It is

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. l8l
arranged in such a way that persons in the upper
stories can see all that is passing on the street, and
also who rings at the street-door. They are odd
contrivances. The peasants from the outlying dis
tricts wear the native costume, wooden shoes and alL
and many an exact counterpart of Em.met's Fritz and
his Katrina do we encounter in the streets.
We attend an evening concert at a cafe. It is quite
en regie to go to one of these places, where all sit at
little tables taking refreshment, and listening to the
music. The only objection we have to it is that, as
the evening advances, the smoke grows in volume,
till the atmosphere gets fairly blue with it.
The Hollanders are very proud of their Dutch
blood, and claim no affinity with the Germans. The
language is entirely different from the German, al
though it sounds very much like it. It has its own
basis and grammatical formation. They maintain a
stand-off attitude with regard to Germany, and in
case of war upon them by any nation, they have, as
allies, Belgium and England,
The principal features of the landscape, as we have
traveled through Holland, are the canals and ditches,
the cattle grazing in the fields, and the windmills.
These windmills are chiefly useful in draining the
soil. Some of them are of enormous height, and
the base is very large, so that a family occupy it as
their home. It looks very strange to see these great
structures with their long awkward arms whirling
around high up in the air, then to see the base with
its pleasant open door-way, lace-curtained windows.

1 82 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
pots of flowers, and children playing about. It really
seems, from the observations we have made traveling
over Europe, that there is not a place under Heaven
here, where there is a bit of flooring, roofing, and a
window, but that it shelters human life ; somebody
makes his home there.
Holland is famous for its productions of cheese,
butter, and beef, which are largely exported to Eng
land. The Hollanders are possessed of indomitable
energy and perseverance, and but for these qualities,
Holland would still be an unreclaimed swamp. They
have not only made for themselves a name ranking
high in commercial importance throughout the world,
but they have also raised for themselves a country
out of the sea, and that which was once a wild waste
of waters is now a land green and beautiful, smiling
in the sunlight of prosperity.
The North Sea was a powerful adversary, a mon
ster to fight against, but they have come off conquer
ors ; slowly, sullenly, steadily the foe retreated, and
now lashes itself impotently against barriers so strong
that, not even in its wildest fury, shall it be able to
o'erleap them — a glorious illustration of the power
of mind over matter.

CHAPTER XXIII.
BELGIUM.
Antwerp — Brussels — Lace-Making — The Unique Painter Wiertz.
From Holland we pass on to Belgium, and now we
must arrange for a new currency and prepare to hear
a different language, for In Belgium it is not pure
Dutch that is spoken, but a patois. Most of the
natives speak French also. We are glad to get out
of Holland. It is an unhealthy country, and we have
not felt well during our stay there.
Antwerp, one of the principal cities of Belgium, is a
beautiful city, expensively built up, and with an air of
wealth and elegance pervading it. It seems good to be
on solid earth once more, and to be freed from inhal
ing sickly odors rising from stagnant waters. Our guide
takes us in the direction of the picture-gallery first, as a
matter of course ; but we say. No ! We can look at no
more pictures ; we are cloyed with sweets, and now
must wait for a wholesome reaction. It is almost the
same with churches and cathedrals. But we must
visit the most beautiful church in all the Netherlands,
Notre Dame ; specially interesting from the fact that
it contains the master-piece of Rubens, the original
painting, " The Descent from the Cross." We also
183

1 84 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
visit St. Jacques Church, where Rubens, together
with all his family, is buried. They are buried in
crypts under the floor, and flat marble slabs bearing
inscriptions mark the spot. We drive along the
quays, which are two miles long. The docks are
lined with mammoth warehouses, and the importations
and exportations are immense. This city was for
merly Intersected by canals, but these have mostly
been filled up, and the sanitary condition much
improved thereby.
There are many magnificent boulevards, all lined
with most expensive residences. We saw the oldest
house in Antwerp, which was used as a prison in the
days of the Spanish Inquisition, It contains many
interesting as well as horrible relics of those days, in
the shape of instruments of torture of all kinds which
were then in use. This old house stands on the shores
of the River Scheldt, and is black with age. Some of
the subterranean cells project far under the river.
The city abounds in beautiful statuary, which greets
the eye at almost every turn. In many of the churches
are to be seen wonderful carvings in wood, executed in
Antwerp. In one of these churches is a pulpit carved
out of English oak. It is quite high, the rostrum being
reached by a flight of steps ; these steps have a rail
ing, and the railing is covered with a running vine of
ivy carved in solid wood. The roof of the pulpit
seems formed of a lattice-work covered with vines,
and the leaves straggle down and droop over the
edge of the lattice-work in the most natural manner ;
and the whole of this exquisite piece of workmanship —

1 86 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
is the field where the decisive battle between the
French and English was fought in 1815, which
resulted in the discomfiture of Napoleon I. The
lofty head was here made to bend ; no longer could
be written against the name of the great Caesar of
modern history — " Veni, vidi, vici."
The chief article of manufacture here is lace. We
visit an establishment and see the different kinds in
process of making — Point Duchesse, Valenciennes,.
and Applique ; an apparently endless task. Hundreds
of threads, as fine as a cobweb, wound on bobbins, and
woven in by hand. It seems as though the whole
fabric as it lies before us in process of making, could
be swept away with a breath ; yet steadily it grows ;.
fine as the fairy-like frostwork on the window-pane,
the filmy texture spreads itself in beauty over the dark
cushion underneath. It is a curious and wonderful
sight. We visit a collection of paintings executed by
a very eccentric artist — Wiertz, a native of Bel
gium, and for some years resident of Brussels.
Though comparatively unknown and unheard of
outside this little kingdom, his history is most re
markable, and his creations meritorious. His was a
life of penury and privation. But his ambition was
to be able to collect and keep all his best pictures
under one roof ; and he would never sell a picture or
paint one for money, except for the bare necessaries
of life. When want stared him in the face, he would
paint a picture, which he called a " pot boiler," and put
it on sale, with no signature.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 85
leaves, vines, and all — is carved in wood. It is so light
and graceful, that at a little distance it seems almost
as though the leaves and vines might be swayed by
the breeze.
On the morning of September ist, we leave Ant
werp en route for Brussels, As the train passes
through the suburbs we see the fortifications ; they
are very strong ; it is said that it would require an
army of 1 70,000 men to besiege Antwerp effectually,
and at least a year to reduce it by starvation. It
is intended as the head-quarters of the Belgian army,
Brussels, the capital of Belgium, is a beautiful city,
bearing the Parisian stamp more distinctly than any
other we have seen.
There are two languages spoken here — Flemish
and French, — French being generally spoken by the
upper classes. The population is about half a million,
and there is a large number of English residents.
The public buildings are on a magnificent scale,
notably the Palais de Justice, which we consider one
of the finest public buildings in Europe ; also the
Hotel de Ville or City Hall, The street-cars are
propelled by electricity. They move swiftly along
with a peculiar metallic sound, similar to that pro
duced by sharpening a knife on a grindstone.
There are many beautiful boulevards ; the principal
one, the " Avenue Louise," leading to a delightful
wood called the Bois de la Cambre. Passing through
the wood and taking a pleasant drive of about an
hour and a half, we reach historical Waterloo. Here

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 187
While Rubens, Raphael, and other world-renowned
artists executed numberless commissions for royalty,
for which they received royal compensation, and lived
lives surrounded by every luxury, Wiertz lived in pov
erty, scorning physical comforts for the glory of his art.
When tempting offers were made him of money
for his work, he made reply : " Keep your gold ; 't is
the murderer of art." He seemed to delight in sen
sational and bizarre effects. In one corner of this
gallery devoted to his productions, we are invited
to look through a loop-hole in the wall. Peering
through this opening, which is about five feet from
the floor, and so small that it is scarcely noticeable,
we see presented before us a scene during the time
of the cholera epidemic in Europe.
A coffin, with the lid partially displaced by the
efforts of the struggling victim who was shut in there
(as too many were during that awful time), supposed
to be dead, but who regains consciousness, and makes
frantic efforts to release himself The emaciated
hand, pushed out of the coffin, and holding up the
lid with all its feeble strength ; the ghastly face, with
wide-open eyes full of horror, which is raised to the
very edge of the coffin, as though to get a breath of
air, just visible between the edge of the coffin and
the lid as it is raised by the trembling hand, present
a vision so startling that for a moment we doubt if it
be not a horrible reality.
There are many other coffins piled around, and the
light is arranged so that it looks dark and like a
charnel-house.

1 88 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
This is one of his paintings, and the arrangement
for its exhibition is peculiarly his own.
In another corner of this gallery he has caused to
be placed his picture of a dog in his kennel ; there is
no frame, and it is set in the wall in such a way that
ninety-nine out of a hundred who stumble upon it
unexpectedly, give a start of surprise, expecting the
dog to spring out, so perfect is not only the painting
but also the setting. But we have not time for more
detail. Wiertz was almost if not quite an anomaly
in the world of art, a most curious and interesting
example of erratic genius.

CHAPTER XXIV.
FRANCE.
Second Visit to Paris — The Universal " Pour-Boire," the Bane of Americans
— The Morgue — Condition of France as a Nation.
On the 4th of September we leave Brussels for
Paris. Eleven years have elapsed since we visited
Paris, at the time we were making the grand tour.
But roaming about the city, we always find some
thing new to interest and entertain.
We attended a performance at the Eden Theatre,
where we saw the Parisian ballet in full blast. At
all the French theatres there are women ushers, who
wear black dresses and white-lace caps trimmed with
red bows. They conduct people to their seats and
place cushions for their feet, for which attention they
expect a few sous.
Every thing is queerly managed in this country.
Nobody does any thing without pay, even if they are
hired to do it. For instance, a cab-driver, in addition
to the regular fare, must have something for himself ;
an usher must be paid for seating you in your proper
seat, which you have bought and paid for ; you pay
a regulation fee for the privilege of entering some
building, and you will always find your passage
through the rooms hindered by somebody who stands
189

1 90 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
expectant ; you pay so much daily for your rooms at
a hotel, so much for service, so much for lights ; but
although you pay for being served each day while
there, on leaving you must fee the attendant just the
same. Somebody is getting rich out of this general
system, but it is not the employes. They don't see
any of the money charged for them ; often they
receive nothing at all, it being considered a favor to
allow them to have the place in order to receive the
gratuities. In fact, one head-waiter told us he was
obliged to pay a certain amount for the privilege of
the position. It is a queer system, and one is always
at sea on the money question, never knowing when
one's bills are paid or whether satisfaction is given.
We visited the Morgue, and saw there the bodies
of a man and woman which had just been taken out
of the Seine. They were placed in a half-sitting pos
ture, so that the crowd outside could see their faces.
It is a dreadful place to visit. The bodies, in their
water-soaked garments clinging round them and dry
ing there, are placed on a long platform on wheels.
Even the expression on their faces is indicative of
the state of mind in which they died. A motley
crowd outside the railing is staring in upon them ;
a crowd, the like of which I have not seen in Paris, —
some faces stamped with the impress of vice, some
sullen and stolid, others weary and pitiful. We stand
among them, and they jostle us on every side. I
gaze curiously into their faces, wondering what their
lives may be and whither tending ; and the question
arises in my mind whether Christianity and its civiliz-

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. I9I
ing effects are not intended for the favored few, like
the Pullman palace cars, while the "great unwashed"
stand outside, never daring to enter, and sure of
being pushed out if they did ; in many cases knowing
nothing at all about churches or their objects.
Is this system of religion, which extends over the
whole civilized world, right ? Should not we, whose
minds are enlightened and made ready to receive and
nurture the truths of Christianity, and the knowledge
which is so abundantly supplied to us on every side,
without external aids,^ — should we not give up these
aids, and send them to those whose minds are uncul
tivated, where no seed can grow without tillage, so
that our preachers of the Gospel may spend more of
their time and efforts in saving those who know not
how to save themselves ? We send missionaries to
foreign lands, giving freely of our means to keep
them there. Should we not also send them through
all the byways and alleys of our great cities, that
people may not be born, live, and die by thousands, as
now, in the darkness — In sin, misery, and degradation ?
In conversation with a Frenchman a few days ago,
he said that France was defeated In the last war on
account of the inefficiency of Napoleon III, He
called him any thing but an able man. In speaking
of M, de Lesseps, he said that everybody speaks dls-
couragingly of the Panama Canal, as though it will
never be completed ; but M, de Lesseps said to him
not long ago, that in less than three years ships would
be sailing through it, and, with a wave of the hand,
added : "To the French nothing is impossible,"

192 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
One may drive in the Bois de Boulogne every
day, and find each time something of interest. In
its beauty, variety, and extent it stands without a
rival in the world. We drive through the Bois to
the racing ground. It is the opening day of the races.
There is a large crowd, with the usual amount of
gesticulation among the excitable Frenchmen. We
continue our drive to St. Cloud, where a fete is in
progress, and where we see the bourgeois enjoying
himself They seem a happy, careless, pleasure-
loving people, and withal a prosperous one. No
trace of the terrible ravages of war is visible. The
country is rich and beautiful, — every thing growing
almost spontaneously, with none of the hard, plod
ding labor of the Germans in their comparatively un
fruitful soil. The French are living now 'mid peace
and plenty ; but they are not content. They bear
Germany an eternal grudge, which can only be
quenched in blood.
But while their ambition, spirit, and courage are
boundless, they lack the ballast of the cool, calculating
German, and in that lies the latter's advantage. An
other war, it seems to me, will be the suicide of
France. They are now divided against themselves ;
Imperialism is gaining ground daily, and is publicly
proclaimed by those in power.

CHAPTER XXV.
ENGLAND.
London — Windsor — Oxford University — Spurgeon — Exciting Scenes in and
about Trafalgar Square — Beggars in London — The Ubiquitous Umbrella.
From Paris we go to London via Boulogne. The
trip across the Channel was dreadful, — so rough that
everybody on board was violently ill. The Doctor
and I were both prostrated, shaken up from the very
foundation, and it will take some time to get settled
down again.
The hotels of London are undergoing a radical
change ; more and more are they assuming the char
acteristics of the great American hotels — the lead
ing hotels of the world. Those in Paris still adhere
almost universally to the European plan, as it is
called ; that is, h la carte, — pay for what you have,
but in the end you pay for a vast deal that you don't
have. And one of these bills, a yard or two long,
is something formidable to confront the unsophisti
cated traveler, as, with overcoat on arm and satchel
in hand, ready for departure, he steps up to the desk
to perform the very simple act (as he supposes) of
paying his bill, accomplished with a stroke of the
pen in America.
But the London hotels are rapidly assuming an-
193

194 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Other basis. True, one can live in them according to
the old-established plan, but he can also live (if he
pleases) exactly as he does in America, for in nearly
all the principal hotels of London to-day there are
two separate establishments, as one might say, — the
one European and the other American.
As we explored London quite thoroughly when here
several years ago, we devote our time now principally
in making excursions into the suburbs. Windsor Cas
tle, a short ride by rail from London, the real home of
Queen Victoria, is an immense pile, quadrangular in
form, with thirteen towers. Here we are shown the
state apartments. It is considered the finest royal
castle in the world. The Albert Memorial Chapel
here is one of the most magnificent structures of its
kind I have ever seen. Here, represented in a recum
bent position on an elaborately carved marble sar
cophagus, is the life-size figure of the beloved Prince
Consort, Also another sarcophagus similar to this,
with the figure of Leopold, the youngest son of the
Queen, who died in 1884, The air is redolent with
the perfume of flowers, which are laid here in profu
sion by loving hands, and renewed as soon as
withered. The entire interior is a vision of beauty, in colored
marbles, precious stones, bas-reliefs, and the richest
stained glass. The Queen, when she enters here,
becomes only the loving wife and mother.
The great parks connected with the castle seem
almost boundless ; the one immediately adjoining
the castle is four miles in circumference. Another

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR.

195

park lies below this, called the Great Park ; it is
fourteen miles in circumference. Here we saw a
vast number of deer, wild birds, rabbits, etc. There
are many brloht-plumaged pheasants, and in the
course of our drive, we passed the head-gamekeeper's
cart, where were several of these beautiful birds which
had just been shot for the royal table.
There is one avenue which stretches from the
castle, straight as an arrow, a distance of three miles ;
at the extreme end of this magnificent avenue is an
equestrian statue of George III. This avenue is
flanked throughout Its length by a double row of
noble beeches.
Situated in this park Is a picturesque lodge for the
use of the royal family when they come out for a
day's recreation.
In this park stands the corner-stone of the memorial
to be erected to Prince Albert, the gift of the women
of England to the Queen to commemorate the fiftieth
anniversar}'^ of her reign. This corner-stone was laid
by the Queen on the anniversary day, and bears an
inscription to that effect,
Oxford is distant sixty-three miles from London.
It Is one of the most interesting towns, historically,
in England. It presents a very queer appearance,
with its narrow streets, all flanked with colleges ; col
leges everywhere — all bearing the impress of age, in
their dark and grimy outlines. The very air smells
of books ; and it seems that the only fitting inhabi
tants of this place should be the antiquarian and book
worm, threading their way in and out among these

196 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
musty old halls. There are twenty-one of these col
leges, each under a separate administration, but all
combined, forming what is familiarly known as the
University, with a general code of laws governing
the whole. The Chancellor of the University, the
Marquis of Salisbury, is elected for life. There are
no religious restrictions, but all denominations are
admitted. There are about eighteen hundred students.
Christ Church College is the largest among these col
leges. In a tower surmounting the imposing gateway
at the entrance of this college is the big bell called
" Great Tom," weighing seventeen thousand pounds ;
the tongue weighs three hundred and forty pounds.
Every evening the bell awakes the echoes calling the
students together. We paid a visit to the kitchen of
this college, which was full of interest ; among the
ancient relics of cooking utensils we saw a gridiron
so big that it is rolled about on wheels.
Magdalen College, New College, University Col
lege, are the principal ones. They are all very
similar in appearance : quadrangular in form, with
magnificent gardens and great parks attached. The
contrast between the forbidding exterior of these
dark, gloomy-looking buildings and the brilliant
gardens and immense green, beautifully wooded
parks inside, is most striking. Here the tendencies
of some of the master-minds of England were devel
oped and nurtured. " Rare Ben Jonson " indulged his
poetic fancies while wandering through these lovely
and secluded parks. Addison pondered on the mys
teries of philosophy in his solitary walks daily here.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 197
He needed no spur but the inspiration which he drew
from nature, as she presented herself to him in such
benignant mien ; no sedative for his restless brain
but the universal quiet which reigned over all this
lovely landscape. Gladstone began early here to
feel his power to sway men's minds to meet his will
by purely intellectual effort, which is the secret of all
great statesmanship.
During our stay in London we attended divine
service at the Metropolitan Tabernacle to hear
Spurgeon. Fully six thousand persons were present,
and it was a magnificent spectacle. The house has
something the appearance of a theatre, with its
two galleries forming a semicircle, and brilliantly
illuminated. The pulpit from which Spurgeon speaks is on a
level with the first gallery, and the stillness that fell
upon the vast audience as the famous preacher rose
to address them was wonderful. Spurgeon is not as
dramatic as of yore, nor as demonstrative in his de
livery ; he does not move up and down the rostrum
as formerly, and makes but few gesticulations, stand
ing quietly, speaking from notes, with clear, ringing
intonation. With the peroration he abandons his
notes, and coming to the front of the pulpit, leans
forward upon the rail, making his application to the
audience, terse, pointed, with all the old-time power
and vigor. He strikes straight out from the shoulder
— hits squarely and unfailingly. He does not appear
quite so stout and rugged as when we last saw him,
about a dozen years ago. The hand of Time leaves

198 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
traces of his touch, and one day an audience will
assemble to listen to the last and grandest sermon of
his life — preached not from the pulpit, but from the
bier ; voiceless, wordless, yet more potent than any
of his life. And the text shall be : the mutability of
human life ; fame is ephemeral, — the world's great
ness a hollow mockery ; nothing is certain but death,
nothing changeless but eternity.
At the National Picture-Gallery, in London, are
representations of ancient and modern schools of art,
the same as in all picture-galleries — except that we
notice here Landseer's productions, the great animal
painter, who during his life was always connected
prominently with some society for the protection of
animals ; and who can doubt his love for them, as
evinced by these wonderful reproductions on canvas ?
The mild-eyed Alderney cows coming up through
the grassy lane at milking-time ; the beautiful grey
hound, lithe and long-limbed, pausing for a moment
in his arrow-like course, his delicate nostrils scenting
the breeze ; the sleeping blood-hound, etc., etc. We
saw here Rosa Bonheur's famous picture, " The
Horse Fair." Here is also a representation of
Christ, novel in design and execution. Our Saviour
is depicted as being overcome with human pain and
suffering, while wearing the crown of thorns ; in
all the others we have ever seen, he is represented
as rising, by virtue of his divine nature, above all
the frailties of human nature ; but here are the eyes
red and swollen with weeping as the cruel thorns
pierced the shrinking flesh ; the brow is contracted.

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 1 99
the lips drawn as though in mortal agony. The
picture seems to bring him more on a plane with
weak human nature than any other we have seen ; it
seems to say : " I suffer even as you would suffer."
One is filled (as he looks at this picture) with stronger
reverence and adoration for a being who could endure
all this mortal agony, and yet inspire us at the same
time to emulate his fortitude, his resignation, his
sublime self-sacrifice. This painting was presented to
the galler}' by the Queen in accordance with the wishes
of the Prince Consort.
Passing through Oxford Street one day, we saw a
large crowd of people marching in the middle of the
street, carrying a big, black banner, on which was
written in bold characters of white : " Give us work,
or give us bread." It was a needy, haggard-looking
crowd, rendered almost desperate from want. The
police did not attempt to stop them in their onward
march, but marched along with them, closely guarding
them on either side, to prevent any outbreak, should
it assume the character of a mob, such as was in Lon
don a few years ago, when a rush was made upon the
palatial business houses, smashing plate-glass win
dows, ruining the costly goods displayed, throwing
stones and other missiles at the elegant private man
sions, and spreading terror and destruction in their
path. In no other city in Europe have I seen so many
beggars and poor, half-starved creatures as in Lon
don. The problem of how to take care of their poor
has evidently not yet been solved. The beautiful

200 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
Trafalgar Square quite near our hotel, with its two
fine fountains playing, its splendidly paved court and
massive balustrades, ornamented at the four corners
by crouching lions in stone, has presented a very
strange spectacle the last few days. The stone
benches in the square are filled all day and night
with poor outcasts and paupers, who sit there in their
want and misery, in the midst of the plenty that
greets their eyes on every side. It is a dreadful
spectacle. All ages and grades are represented, from
the poor creature who has known better days, and
who strives pitifully to hide his rags and present a
respectable appearance, to the abject pauper with
shoeless feet, crownless hat, and unkempt hair ; filthy,
carrying disease and death in the tatters clinging
round him. The city is divided in its opinion with
regard to these poor creatures stranded here, just on
the edge of a long, bitter winter. Some say they
can't get work — they ought to have help. Others say
they won't work, they won't go to the workhouse —
let them starve. Occasionally benevolently inclined
persons distribute bread to them, as was done one
day last week ; a large van loaded with loaves of
bread arrived at the square about 1 1 o'clock at night,
and was distributed among the miserable creatures,
who many of them were doubtless suffering the pangs
of hunger. A policeman, in speaking on the subject,
said that many of them stay there all night, and the
early morning hours will find them performing their
ablutions in the splendid basins of the fountains. One
cause for the great number of these poor wretches

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 201
here without work is the great influx of foreigners
from different parts of Europe, who will work for a
mere pittance, thereby rendering the competition so
great that the native Englishman can have no chance
with them — for he cannot afford to work without fair
compensation. In an article in The Nineteenth Cen
tury, the subject is dealt with in an intelligent man-
mer. The West End of London is severely criticised,
" which," it goes on to say, " suffering from a periodical
panic, or to appease the pangs of stricken conscience,
flings huge sums of money into this yawning gulf of
hopeless destitution ; ;^8o,ooo dribbles out in shillings
and pence to first-comers. This acts as a far-reaching
advertisement, deepening and widening the stream of
low-class labor into London.
" Whole sections of the population are demoralized ;
men and women who have work, throwing it down in
order to become eligible for relief What is needed
is — not indiscriminate charity ; — less money and more
thought must be brought to bear on the question be
fore a practical way of Improving the condition of the
London paupers is found." It is thought by some
that this movement is not so much an outgrowth of
the distress and want existing among the army of the
unemployed, as it is an agitation forced on by so
cialists, who hope to increase their ranks in this way,
and thereby their power.
It is very gloomy weather in London. We look in
vain every morning for a glimpse of the sun, but his
round, jolly face ever eludes us ; and if he does peep out
from behind that dark-gray pall overhead, he quickly

202 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
withdraws, as though discouraged at the magnitude of
the attempt to try to light up such a big gloomy region
as London. So the days come and go, and we never
see his welcome face. How the Londoners exist, as
they do nine tenths of the year, in this dull, colorless
atmosphere, and preserve their good-nature, I can't
understand. Upon me the effect is most depressing ;
I feel a weight upon me which I cannot shake off, no
matter how pleasant my surroundings ; and I think
that only the cheering presence of " Old Sol " can
dispel it.
A suggestion of fog pervades the atmosphere, whick
keeps us dreading every moment, lest it should grow
more dense, and we sincerely hope that it will not
settle down on London so long as we are here, in the
manner of a few days before our arrival, when, as our
cabby pointedly expressed it, " It came that thick,,
mum, that you could n't see your hand before you,
mum." But your true Londoner calls nothing rain short
of a flood. Wherever you see him, you see the ubiqui
tous umbrella ; it is as much a part of him as the hair
of his head ; and so he goes on his way serenely.

CHAPTER XXVI.
From London to Liverpool — Homeward Bound — A Visit to Queenstown —
Sunday at Sea.
Tuesday, October i8th, we leave London for Liver
pool, from which point we Intend sailing for home.
As we pass through the streets on our way to
the railway station, we notice that the excited and
desperate crowd of people has assumed almost the
character of a mob. They surge along the streets ap
parently with little method, but with sullen, savage
faces. Cordons of police are everywhere ; mounted
police patrol the streets, fully equipped and armed,
ready for instant action. The experience of two years
ago has taught them to leave no point unguarded, and
any violent demonstration will instantly be quelled.
Poor misguided creatures — nothing is to be gained by
this demonstration, but when hunger and cold begin to
pinch, revolt of some kind seems almost imperative.
At the station we enter, for the first time since our
stay in Europe, a Pullman car.
The ride to Liverpool is delightful ; the face of the
country has as yet lost none of its summer beauty ;
the close-cropped green hedges, which divide the
farms, cause the whole extent of country to look like
a garden. The soil is fruitful, the farm-houses neat,
203

204 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
commodious, and hospitable in their appearance, and
peace and comfort are breathed forth in the entire
landscape. On the morning of October 19th, we make our way
down to the wharf, where lies the big ship Britannic,
which is to bear us across the ocean homeward bound.
There is the usual commotion attendant upon the de
parture of an ocean steamer ; always an important
event. The steerage passengers are crowded into
the passage-ways assigned to them, roped in like so
many animals ; and a motley crew they are, to the
number of seven hundred, in various stages of wretch
edness, all carrying their pots, pans, and various cook
ing utensils. Their food is served out to them on
board the ship, but they bring their own table furni
ture, and bedding. Their faces are turned toward the
New World, which to many of them seems filled with
Aladdin lamps, or like one gigantic horn of plenty,
from which they have but to draw at will. Alas ! too
many of them find to their sorrow that it is only a
"will-o-the-wisp, and they give up the chase.
Wednesday, October 20th. On looking out of my
state-room window, just at daybreak, land is visible ;
it is the coast of Ireland, and we are nearing the
harbor of Queenstown. The coast of Ireland is bold,
rugged, and picturesque. We see many light-houses ;
one in particular we notice as we pass within a short
distance of it ; a mass of white buildings, with one
tall square tower, with its revolving light, which blinks
at us — now with an eye of flame, now a blood-red
eye, anon, 't is of brilliant green ; and so it follows

A SECOND EUROPEAN TOUR. 205
us with its warning, kindly glance, in the ghostly
gray of the morning. The harbor of Queenstown
is filled with row-boats ; and they seem to be run
ning a race to see which shall reach our ship first.
We did not at first understand this. Up they come
alongside ; the occupants, carrying baskets and boxes,
climb the slippery rope-ladder to our lower deck,
where they display their wares for sale on the floor —
a heterogeneous mass : dried fish, canned fruits and
vegetables, cakes, articles of clothing of all descrip
tions, cooking utensils of all sorts, presided over by
the healthy-looking daughters of Erin, generally bare
headed, driving a brisk trade. Remarks like this
reach our ears : " What, two of them butlful herrlns
for tuppence ! may be you will ; you 're too frish."
" Here 's a foin silk handkerchif fit for a lord — only
sixpence," etc., etc.
One or two of the more venturesome come up to
the main deck, and we are besought on every hand
to buy their wares, consisting of bog-wood jewelry,
canes, and many little trinkets of their own manufac
ture. We wait here for the arrival of the royal mail,
and as we shall probably remain four or five hours, we
conclude to board the little puffing tug-boat, which has
just come up, and make a visit to Queenstown. Land
ing, we find a host of jaunting-cars ; the drivers all
crying out the merits of their steeds, and the beauties
of the country which they will take us to see. We
mount one, and, clinging to it, we are off for a drive
through this most beautiful country.
The morning is lovely ; the air is soft, and it seems

206 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
like' one of our glorious Indian-summer days come to
welcome us. Pat takes his seat, and starts off in high
glee. Queenstown is situated on a hill-side ; a picturesque
but, on close examination, not a very beautiful town.
It was given its name by Queen Victoria, to com
memorate the fact that she landed there on one of her
visits to Ireland in 1849. The harbor is very beauti
ful and extensive, there being space enough in it for
the entire British navy. A formidable-looking vessel,
an English man-of-war, lies in the harbor constantly.
Up the steep hill-side roads we merrily go ; we see
plenty of pigs and children. Farm-houses, with their
thatched roofs and untidy surroundings ; for no power
on earth can ever make Pat orderly and neat, as
regards his belongings. But we see none of the
dreadful destitution, of which we have read so much.
I suppose one reason is, Queenstown has always
maintained neutral ground in most of the exciting
questions which have arisen with regard to Ireland's
welfare. She has not been in open rebellion.
Once more we have boarded the little tug-boat, and
are carried to our steamer. Our visit to Queenstown
has proved a very pleasant break in the monotony of
this long voyage.
Sunday, October 23d. — In mid-ocean; there is
a humid, warm air, really oppressive. The sea ap
pears calm, but there is a heavy ground-swell,
causing the vessel to roll fearfully. We have re
ligious services on board, led by the captain, always
more impressive at sea than elsewhere. The little

A SECOND EUROPEAN TO OR. 207
band of souls on board this ship, alone with God, on
this fathomless, boundless waste of waters ; and as the
captain's voice is heard, — " Guide us in safety through
the perils of the deep, and bring us safely home " ;
and again, "In Thee we trust"; the most careless
and unthinking soul can but echo the words : "In
Thee we trust."
Friday, October 28th. — We arrive safely in the
harbor of New York ; and on the evening of the
30th, when we arrive at Syracuse, the Doctor writes
in his daily journal : " Glad to get home once more ! "

CHAPTER XXVIL
The Adieu to the Old Year— In the Shadow of Death— From Life to Death—
From Death to Life Again.
The journal to which allusion is made in the last
chapter forms a daily record of his life, and from its
pages breathes forth the spirit of Doctor Wieting. It
has been systematically kept, and we find data of
nearly forty years ago. The doubts and misgivings at
tendant upon his launching himself upon the broad
sea of public life, as well as the triumphs and suc
cesses, are all depicted here, and none who read can
doubt the earnestness of purpose, the purity of soul,
the unswerving integrity pervading all the acts in his
drama of life ; — from first to last it should serve as a
beacon light to guide others.
On the night of December 31, 1887, he writes, after
the record of the events of the day :
" I am up late enough to-night to see the old year pass
away and the new year come in. I am thankful to an all-
wise Providence that I have been spared another year, not
that I suppose he singles this one out to live and that one
to die, but that he has so organized our bodies that we can
live and breathe for a long time by observing all the laws of
life and health, and by starting in life with a good constitu
tion. Even with a feeble constitution one may live for a
long time by faithfully observing these laws. This has been
208

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 209
rather an eventful year with me. Three or four times the
Wieting Block has come near being destroyed by fire, once
by fire in the block and three times by outside fires. Twice
have Mrs. Wieting and I crossed the Atlantic Ocean, and
we have been through and visited ahnost all the principal
cities of Germany, Bohemia, Austria, Bavaria, Holland,
Belgium, France, and England. We also went down the
Rhine River, visiting almost all the important places as far
as Amsterdam. We really took in all the grand cities of
Europe : the centres of civilization and enterprise, refinement
and culture ; the centres that make Europe what it is to-day.
" Good-by, Old Year ; ever shall I be thankful to thee for
the large amount of happiness I have enjoyed in the three
hundred and sixty-five days of your existence. You are
gone, but I am still left."
Again, on January ist, he writes: "Happy New
Year to all ! "
Can it be possible that Death should be so near,
and yet give no sign of his presence !
If poor mortals but knew of its brooding shadow,
could it not be banished — driven away, by the utmost
care and attention to our failing bodies ? Alas, we
know not !
Much of his journal during these last days and
weeks of his life bears on his own physical condition,
and the means taken to improve it. But as the
cold weather increased, his breathing became more
labored, and the paroxysms of coughing more severe,
so much so that at times after one of these attacks,
the great drops of perspiration would stand on his
face, so terrible had been the struggle for breath ;
but he bore up under these paroxysms heroically.

2IO REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
and his friends and acquaintances little dreamed, as
they met him day after day in the street and were
pleasantly accosted, of the terrible suffering he en
dured every day of his life. On February 6th he was
at his Block and Opera House all day superintending
the repairing and improving of the heating-apparatus ;
he had felt a little chilled, but thought nothing of it,
and went down to his Opera House as usual in the
evening. Before retiring for the night the events of
the day were all carefully written out in his journal,
and they proved the last lines ever penned by his
hand. The cold assumed the dread features of pneumonia
almost from the very outset, which, added to the
chronic bronchial and asthmatic difficulties, made
rapid inroads upon the already weakened and impaired
lungs, and on the morning of February 13th, we knew
the end was near.
About eleven o'clock he looked up suddenly, and
seemed to gather all his forces and concentrate them
in the effort to say distinctly, but feebly, to his wife :
" Libble, I am going to die." He lingered on in a
semi-conscious state until about half past two o'clock
in the afternoon, when the noble and heroic soul left
earth behind. The struggle for life, which had always
been borne with fortitude and cheerfulness, and which
had lasted through so many years, was over.
On February i6th friends assembled to pay the last
tribute of respect, to take the last farewell of their
old friend and associate. Among the beautiful floral
emblems which were scattered about him was a mag-

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 211
nificent arch of flowers, surmounted by a dove with
outspread wings — emblem of the peace which irradi
ated from the dead face.
Rev, S, R, Calthrop, of the Unitarian Church in Syra
cuse, spoke most touchingly and truthfully of the dead.
He said :
" When we put away a great pioneer who has helped to
make Syracuse what it is, we should pause and think. As
we turn to the early history of Dr. Wieting, we see him
plunged into poverty, shouldering great responsibilities with
a brave heart, willing hands, and keen brain. This power
increased, and the boy was destined to be some one.
" It was by instructing men and women in the mystery of
our constitution, that our friend laid the foundation of his
power, and to which he looked back with honest pride. We
all remember the disasters which overtook him when his
property was destroyed by fire, but he bravely went to work,
although already in the sere and yellow leaf, and determined
that the new structure should be fairer and more beautiful
than the old. I trust that the example of our friend will be
followed in erecting more noble and enduring structures.
Integrity and honor are essential to success in this life, and
a place is ever ready in the Kingdom of Heaven for such a
man as he."
Dr. Calthrop made allusion to the prophetic re
mark made by Doctor Wieting to his wife, while
they were traveling in Europe, a few months previous
to his death. " This will be something pleasant for
you to remember after I am gone."
" We deposit his body in the earth, and we commit his
spirit to God."
The employes of the Opera House and Block bore

212 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
the burial casket to the tomb ; and by its side walked
eight of his old-time friends and companions.
The massive doors of the mausoleum in Oakwood
were thrown wide open to receive the elder son, who
had always been the corner-stone of the household ;
and he was laid to rest with his father, mother, sister,
and brothers.
One by one he had followed them all to the grave,
after having ministered to their every Want when they
were laid upon beds of sickness. And now there
remains to follow him none but she, the companion
of his life, who stands in her grief — alone ; and who,
as she pens these lines, overwhelmed with a sense of
her loss, but expresses the one consoling thought
which lifts her spirit above and beyond its sorrow, as
she causes to be written on the marble slab which
marks the place where he lies, the words :
" Where immortal spirits reign.
There we shall meet again."
Kindly and appreciative allusions to Doctor Wie
ting's life, career, and death were made by the press
all over the State.
Below is an extract from an article in the Troy
Times, written by the proprietor, who was his life
long friend :
" In all the relations of a son, husband, friend, and citizen,
Doctor Wieting was a man who deserved the profoundest
respect. The misfortunes of his father gave him an oppor
tunity to prove his filial devotion. His humble beginning,
so great in contrast with what he succeeded in accomplish-

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 213
ing, demonstrated his sterling qualities. As a friend Doctor
Wieting was sincere and trustworthy. His sympathy was
always given to those who needed it. Substantial encour
agement was never lacking from him in cases of misfortune
and distress, and his philanthropic nature prompted him to
do frequent deeds of kindness, numerous instances of which
never came to the knowledge of the public.
" In such cases as Doctor Wieting's, the phrase ' self-
made man ' has meaning and appropriateness. All that he
was and all that he achieved, he owed to his own ceaseless
energies, wisely exerted to useful and successful ends."
The press of his own city were unstinted in their
expressions of commendation of his life and charac
teristics as a citizen of Syracuse, a few extracts from
which are given here :
" DR. WIETING AS A CITIZEN.
" It may be safely said that Dr. J. M. Wieting, whose
death occurred in this city yesterday, has been the most
conspicuous figure in the life of Syracuse for the past
twenty-five years.
" He was known of all men, at least by sight, and when
he walked abroad, was everywhere pointed out as one of the
residents of the city, the mention of whose name would
suggest to a stranger an interest in his personality. No
public enterprise was ever set afloat that did not instantly
command his attention ; and though he was considered too
conservative in his habits of thought, he was apt to reach
his conclusions by a process of reasoning distinguished by
logic and philosophy. Dr. Wieting certainly took a whole
some pride in the city of Syracuse. The buildings which
have borne his name have always been monuments to this
sentiment, and the activity of his interest in all questions of

214 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
public import left no doubt that he was watching the
growth of his city with vigilant care. It was at his hands
that Syracuse had its first theatre, and later, its first Opera
House, It was a motive far from mercenary which impelled
him to erect the magnificent temple of amusement which
to-day carries his name down to posterity, for at the time
of its building, an opera house as an investment was not in
the line of good financial management. Dr. Wieting sim
ply reared this temple to better assert his pride in the insti
tution he had earlier in life established ; and in unfaltering
fealty to the desire to die owning a place of amusement to
which his name might be attached, faced with rare pluck a
hundred embarrassments and obstacles, which at his time
of life would have utterly dismayed a man less full of vital
ity and indomitable will-power. Dr. Wieting carried a
gentle heart under a rough exterior ; he oftentimes did the
kindliest things under the mask of severity ; but an army
of unfortunate actors, some dead, some living, besides
others, shared the better nature of the man, and loved him
for it. It was not a strange or infrequent thing for him to
forgive them their debts to him without asking any corre
sponding forgiveness on their part."
Another extract :
" Dr. Wieting's keen intellect, his unique individuality,
his sturdy physique, made him a force in this community, a
noted character wherever he traveled, and seemed to insure
length of days and continued active participation in public
affairs. He was a conversationalist of rare gifts and charm."
The following paragraph appeared in one of the city
papers about two weeks after Dr. Wieting's death :
" Parade is made in the press of the country of an item
relating to the earnings of people who have coined fortunes

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 21 5
on the lecture platform. Beecher is placed at the head of
the list with aggregate earnings estimated at a quarter of a
million, most of which he failed to save. Greeley, Chapin,
Bayard Taylor, Anna Dickinson, and Mark Twain are rated
high in the list of successful platform talkers. If the figures
given are approximately correct, we venture the assertion
that there is not living in this country a lecturer who can
successfully match net proceeds with the late Dr. J. M.
Wieting, of this city, who was unique in his chosen field,
and who, retiring more than twenty years ago, has some
thing substantial to show to-day for every dollar earned
while he was on the platform."
Letters and telegrams innumerable from all parts
of the country were received by Mrs. Wieting, ex
pressing in most heartfelt terms their love and respect
for him who had gone forever. One old gentleman,
a relative of the Doctor, writes :
" In respect to the dear departed cousin and his friends,
I have kept this afternoon — the hour of the funeral — with
out labor, as I do the Sabbath. I was surprised and grieved
at the death of Dr. J. M, Wieting, he who through his
sagacity and industry has done more to render the name of
Wieting illustrious than any other of the name."
Another old friend, " in the sere and yellow leaf "
himself, writes :
" I cannot realize that the hand which so lately penned
the letter lying before me is forever motionless ; that the
true and generous heart of my early and abiding friend has
forever ceased to beat. A sense of loneliness steals over
me when I reflect that my last early friend is dead, and
that I shall hear his cheery words no more."

2X6 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
An extract from another letter :
" Words cannot restore him to us ; but I crave permission
to mingle my tears with those who lament his departure
those who knew his kindliness of heart and loyal friend
ships. There is no one whose name stricken from the roll
of the living, among our friends, would be missed more
than the genial Doctor's — so long a warm friend. The world
— our world — seems smaller and lonely without him. You
have the pleasant consciousness of having made the last
years of his life very happy ; and doubtless that happiness
and your tender care have lengthened his days. I trust
you know the deep sympathy this letter fails to express."
Another life-long friend writes :
" He was one of the land-marks in our life. Oh, how
much we shall miss him through the remainder of our life
journey ! "
One who had known him from boyhood writes :
" I am in deep sympathy and mourning with you. He
was to me like a brother ; we had been friends for more
than fifty years."
One of his fellow-townsmen writes :
" I have known the Professor longer than any other man
in Syracuse, and I cannot let this occasion pass without
offering my tribute to his unswerving steadfastness in every
thing that he thought was right. I express the deepest
regret for the loss that we all have sustained, and which we
shall all find it hard to realize."
An extract from another letter :
" ' God doeth all things well,' and doth not willingly afflict,
though he may not reveal to us now the why of his myste-

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 217
rious doings. Infinite wisdom and infinite love are his.
Life's pathway is dreary before you, but may you at all
times find His promise verified ; * I will not forsake thee! '
and may the dying love of your husband fall upon you like
a mantle, to shield and protect you through life."
Another writes of an acquaintance which has ex
tended over a period of fifty years :
" We were boys together, and formed more than an ordi
nary attachment for each other. We have passed through
the journey of life step by step, face to face — always hold
ing each other in high regard. What a firm friend he was
to those who merited his friendship ! He was enterprising,
energetic, and always a genial companion — one who made
the world better for his having lived in it. God bless his
memory ! His death seems like a dream. He is gone in
person from among us, and it is one of the bereavements of
this life that we have to bear ourselves. All that we have
left to console us is the sweet remembrance of himself and
his many virtues,"
All these tributes are cherished by the recipient
among the treasures sacred to her dead.
Sympathy is sweet ; and words of praise spoken of
our loved and lost, are as welcome to those who
mourn as the sunlight breaking through the clouds.
The great question of death and immortality — the
hereafter, — which so puzzles and evades all solution,
and the mysteries of which those who have lost near
and dear ones most long to know, that they may be
freed from all those conjectures which are so unsatis
factory, will never be solved till we ourselves pass

2l8 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
behind the veil. One writer says : " The longing for
immortality, which is instinct in every soul, proves it."
This great subject, the future state, has caused the
writer many long hours of thought and useless con
jecture ; and in reply to her expressions of vain regret,
that we can know nothing positively about the immor
tal state, a loving friend sends the following beautiful
and consoling lines by an unknown author, entitled
" Easter Lilies " ; and with these lines the writer will
close this work, which has been to her a labor of love,
thanking God for the promise of resurrection, as
breathed forth in the blooming of the flowers, in the
dropping of the seed, in the falling of the rain, and
in all the manifold manifestations of nature.
Surely, if the Easter lilies die but to live again,
shall not we ? And though we walk now by faith and
not by sight, yet we will not vainly strive to penetrate
the mysteries which God conceals ; but knowing in
stinctively that death is but the beginning of another
life, we commit our loved ones, as they enter upon
that other life, to the care of the Infinite Spirit per
vading eternity, whom Christ our Saviour teaches
us in all humility to designate as — " Our Father who
art in Heaven."

EASTER LILIES.
" Not by measure, not by weight.
Not by rule nor square.
Can we hope to estimate —
Things of air.

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 219.
Nor by language to express
Spirit truths ; but none the less
Do we know that air is air.
Spirit — Spirit — everywhere ;
By a higher gift than reason.
And this saves us from despair.
" Again I 've seen the Easter lilies blow ;
I 've watched their petals one by one unfold ;
And oh ! I 'd give the great round world to know
The secret hidden in their hearts of gold,
" These words were mine only a year ago ;
I 've guessed the lilies' secret hidden long ;
My heart has felt what earth can never know.
My fine senses caught the perfect song.
" I 've been considering the lilies fair, —
White Easter lilies blossoming to-day,
And strangely light has grown my load of care,
And all my doubts have vanished quite away.
" I 've seen the bulbs I buried in the earth.
Each lifting up to life its fragrant head ;
An object-lesson — a mysterious birth —
A literal resurrection from the dead.
" And I believe, some time, some perfect day.
In fairie realms, beyond the voiceless gloom,
That I shall find my dear ones, gone away.
Fairer than lilies in immortal bloom.
" 'T is this that makes my cares and sorrows fall
Like withered leaves ; you ask me how I know ;
Look on these blossoms, white and sweet and tall, —
Can you tell me what makes the lilies grow ?

220 REMINISCENCES OF DR. WIETING.
" You cannot, no, you cannot ; oh, how wise !
Then throw away your logic — look above
The dull, cold earth, where all your reason lies ;
God made the lilies grow ; and God is Love !
" There 's Love in every petal pure and white ;
There 's Love in every lily's fragrant breath ;
And Love alone outlives the touch of blight ;
For Love is Lord alike of life and death.

«

The loved and lost ! such things can never be ;
Since God is Love, this truth my heart doth know ;
Once clasped and kissed, my loved belong to me ;
They are immortal ; Love hath made them so.
" Consider, then, the lilies of the field ;
Love's logic only can explain their bloom ;
Away with doubts, to finer senses yield ;
Love lives, and reigns triumphant in the tomb.
" Learn then the lesson of the lilies fair ;
Toil not, spin not, with logic's cunning art,
A web of reason, checkered with despair ;
The head can never understand the heart.
" And while Great Reason, with his telescope,
Seeks all in vain the path by angels trod ;
The heart translates the lilies' tale of hope ;
Earth cannot hold them — they belong to God.
" There 's a wisdom beyond reason ;
There 's a greater power than death ;
There 's a clime that knows no season ;
There 's a life, transcending breath ;
There 's a logic and a language, All philosophy above ;

THE CLOSE OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 221
There 's a harmony unsounded ;
There 's a universe unbounded ;
In a word, the whole is rounded ;
There is — God ; — and God is Love,
Eternal Love." THE END.

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