f-Zr iff J* >» f<^«t: *» |: »S ¦¦•S A «! *>"i. ¦'"¦¦¦¦ !'^? :l^* Plt^- ^t>J jaSiS*'"''*!'*^ ,'^„ I m ^^TJiWX^'^'-'^m i i" ¦> * ^. J-^l©b*sL*"«-?»....> ¦¦¦¦¦* %»»«»%¦ 1lt^». •te^t -4k ¦¦•- .il ife^itiSv ia kiM^ «:•«<** •d"* * ». S frs J YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY -j^^lA^ iiiiiii HUM itiiiriPiiiiiimiiitiiiiiiiKPiKiiir riiiiitiiiriiiniiiiiiii Miiiiiiiiiir i iiiiiiimilliiiM Miiiiiiiiiiiiilt iimimiiMminMilMimmri(0;^^^ IIMMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIH^ The Mid-South And Its Builders BEING THE STORY OF THE DEVELOPMENT AND A FORECAST OF THE FUTURE OF THE RICHEST AGRICUL TURAL REGION IN THE WORLD EDITOR C. P. J. MOONEY CONTRIBUTING EDITORS E. M. Holmes F. D. Beneke Geo. L. Fossick E. N. Lowe W. C. Watson Secretary, C. E. Nichols PUBLISHED BY MID-SOUTH BIOGRAPHIC AND HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION THOMAS W. BRIGGS COMPANY DIRECTORS MEMPHIS, TENN. 1920 •^»"! mil "«»i iiii iiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii I ffliiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiimiiiiii iiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiininimniiiiiiiiiii m\\ iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiniiii i^^^ """"" ' """'"i"iiii"iii"i>niiriMm riitrriiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiriiiiiiiiniii i iiniiuniirrimiiiiriiiiii,iiiiiiiM„iimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiM„„„„„„„„„/^V^<^ COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY THOMAS W. ERIGCS COMPANY (.'.u/^0^00 yaU jFoteltJorb ,HIS book is designed as a permanent and lasting history of the development of the marvelous coun try in the heart of the lower Mississippi Valley, which those who live within it call the Mid-South. The history of this region runs back to the gen eration of men who were in the fullness of youth when Columbus was in the gloom of the evening of his life. The cross currents of the growth and civilization of North America have swept back and forth through it. Its people bore a hand in the upbuilding of the Republic. No other region has so marvelously and so splendidly developed within the last fifty years. No other region in the United States is richer in promise for future prosperity and happiness. The forward move of the Mid-South during the last quarter of a century is due to a completion of the levees, to the cutting away of timber, to the completion of transportation lines, to a more inten sive cultivation of soil. It is the purpose of this book to set forth the unique things that have made the Mid-South great and to tell the story of the work of some of its splendid men and women. This book is designed for the library of the states and the uni versities. Historical Associations, Chambers of Commerce and for the use of the editors of the larger newspapers of the United States, Canada and Great Britain. The articles have been prepared by experts in their lines, the material has been carefully selected and the utmost pains have been taken to assure accuracy in descrip tion and statement of facts. The editor is grateful to those who have made the publication of The Mid-South and Its Builders possible. Memphis, Tennessee, 1920. The Mid-South in History By C . P . J . M ooney ^HE story of the Mid-South, in its procession of men, the march of events and the changing of conditions is filled with dramatic interest. The splendid region had its historic begin ning when the seats of civilization were changing from East to West. Hernando DeSoto and his conquistadores stood on the Chickasaw Bluffs and overlooked the mighty Mississippi in 1541. From that day forward all the cross currents and struggle of men and nations for progress and for a higher civilization swept through this valley. The beginnings of things in the Mid-South were close to the endings of things with some of the nations of Eastern Europe and Western Asia that were burning out. It was less than a hundred years from the fall of Constantinople when the banner of Christendom was hauled down from St. Sophia and the Crescent floated from its dome to the march of DeSoto from Florida to Alabama and Mississippi, through Tennessee and Arkansas. The Ambassadors of Brandenburg and Anhalt were calling on Luther. John Calvin was developing his system of philosophy and religion. There were no plays of the immortal Shakespeare. He had not been born. There were men with DeSoto who may have served with Bayard. Henry VIII was changing wives and a year later Sent Catherine Howard to the block. In that same year Francis I of France, who greeted Henry of England on the Field of the Cloth of Gold, died. On that historic meeting spot, nearly four hundred years ago, where armed knights tilted and where silken-clad ladies gathered, sons of the Mid-South in 1918 hurled themselves against the lines of the Hohenzollerns, rulers of an Empire which had its fling at life, terrified the world and perished within the time of the generation of men. Before DeSoto came, the civilization, under which Asia Minor, Mesopotamia, Chaldea and Egypt were the beauty spots and the garden spots of the world, had been swept away by the onrush of men from the desert near Aden and by other men who came down from the roofs of Asia with death and chaos in their train. The discovery of America was ordered by Providence. The yellow races of men had so multiplied that it was necessary that Europe people more land with white men and women so that the human equilibrium could be maintained, and into the Western Continent these men came just as children of Moses swept out of Egypt into the Promised Land. The development of America was a well ordered part of the eternal scheme of things. The rise of the south and the flowering of the Mid-South is a part of that evolution marking human progress, and though DeSoto came and went and left behind him faint traces of his journey he did leave imprints of the method in his plan which were of use to those that followed him. He came northward and westward from Florida. He followed the courses of the smaller rivers. He crossed over from the high grounds of the Upper Tombigbee and drove towards the river, blazing a line which today is followed by one of the iron roads of commerce. It was fit that he should find the heart of the South in the heart of the Mid-South. It was the place of the crossing of the Aborigines. Today it is the place of the crossing by the means of two great bridges of millions of tons of freight and millions of men and women out of the west into the southeast and out of the east into the boundless west. After the death of DeSoto not for one hundred and thirty years did a white man, so far as history records, move across what is now the upper jjart of Mis sissippi, Arkansas and Tennessee. Europe was largely engaged in developing and reforming her own states. Richelieu was creating France. The pioneers of southern Germany were moving out from the reaches of the Baltic and strug gling to establish Teutonic solidarity from the Vosges to the Polish border. Even before DeSoto saw the Mississippi, Magellan's ships had gone around the world and the currents of commerce began to change from the channels to which they had run for centuries. Portugal had established a foothold in the far Indies, but the future fields for exploitation were to the west. During this period the mighty struggle between Spain and England for world supremacy took place, with France allied with one and then with the other. The fate of the Armada decided that Spain should not dominate the world. England abandoned her insular policy and bid for the mastery of the seas. Spain took over all of South and Central America except that which was left to Portugal, but Spain did not drive her forces along the path marked out by DeSoto. When the struggle finally settled down to a steady campaign we find Spain seeking to drive north from Mexico, England taking over part of the Atlantic Seaboard from the Dutch and holding all for herself from Florida to Maine. The sons of France crowded into Canada, others touched Biloxi and then began the century struggle between France and England for the mastery of the Mississippi Valley, with Spain, a beaten contender, hoping for an opportunity to come again into dominion over the region traversed by the first conquistador. We find the French driving north from New Orleans, Mobile and southward from out of Canada through the Lakes and down the Mississippi. One hun dred years before England, the Colonies or the Republic gave thought to the rich lands west of the Allcghanies we find iMcnch missionaries and colonists going up and down the Mississippi. In 1673 Marquette passed down in front of the Blut?s of Memphis and Helena. A few years later LaSalle, one of the romantic figures among the world's explorers, came and set up claims for Louis XIV, the Grand Monarch. LaSallc had a magnificent vision. In his mind's eye he saw the flag of France, the symbol of the rule of his country, at Quebec, Montreal, at the con fluence of the Ohio and the Mississippi and on these bluffs down to the mouth of the Great River. It was a glorious dream, but after another century the same flag which gave way to the banners of Spain and England was hauled down forever. The Mid-South became under the Stars and Stripes a part of the young Republic. Along the Mississippi it was decided that the English speaking people, the people of the blue eyes and light hair, and not the Latins, with their traditions of Caesar and Charles V should populate this country. In the proc ess of these changes there ran a thread of romance, chivalry, adventure and tragedy. A few years after the French came to Natchez the greatest colonial enter prise ever conceived had its headquarters in this Mid-South, near Arkansas Post. John Law worked out a plan of colonizing and cultivating the banks of the Mississippi and Law opened before the eyes of the French people a prospect of trading in gold, furs and products of the soil over a region larger than all of Europe. So well did the French people think of this enterprise that they invested almost $400,000,000 in it. Law's plan was sound. He failed because he lost the confidence of his countrymen. The Hudson Bay Company and the East India Company were similar enter prises and they succeeded. Even before Law came, the French built Fort Prud'homme on the bluffs and Fort Assumption at Memphis, thereby coming in conflict with the grants which Charles the First of England gave to his subjects of land running due west from Virginia and the Carolinas across the river. It may be interesting in the story of this Valley which is so closely inter woven with the story of the contending great European powers to note that the first white settlement west of the Mississippi, except those in the far southwest, was made in the Mid-South at Arkansas Post. This was in 1688. That the Mississippi Valley should join with the regions along the Atlantic Seaboard and make for a common destiny was clear at the close of our Revo lution. France and the colonies were allies. During the war men talked of France holding the valley west of the river and the colonies controlling the regions to the east, but so soon as English speaking people began to go down the Ohio, Cumberland and the Mississippi the natural design that one people must control all was developed. There was talk of free navigation, but there could be no free navigation of the river so long as one nation controlled the mouth and another the stream higher up. When France helped us beat the English, France and Spain both made it inevitable that they should move out of the west and give the young nation room to grow. Before 1803 far-seeing men knew that America must control this valley either by purchase or by conquest. So in 1803 France surrendered sovereignty in this valley and a few years later Spain gave up all color of claims to South Mississippi and Florida and contented herself by holding Texas and lands as far up as Oregon. France and Spain left their imprint on this region. It is in the name of villages, rivers and counties. In Memphis we see it in the name of Gayoso, in Arkansas we note it in the St. Francis, L'Anguille and New Gascony. Higher up Cape Girardeau tells us that once the Frenchman was there. Here the Bayoso Gayoso is a reminder that Spain's hope of dominion was shattered. We see the traces of French and Spanish laws in land titles. Now and then the transfer of land in Eastern Arkansas must be referred to Washington where the President of the United States will clear a title by stating that claims to the land were surrendered in a treaty made between the United States and his Royal Highness, the King of Spain. The Spanish and the French also left behind them a little touch of poetry and romance which to this day flavor the lives of our people. Whence came the English speaking people into this Mid-South? Before and after the Revolution a few bold s])irits were jjushing out from Pennsylvania and New York into Ohio. Men from Virginia went out into the Kentucky region. Boone crossed over from the Carolinas into the northwest. Down from Virginia through the East Tennessee country other men came. After the Revolution these pathfinders were followed by families. At the close of the century we find the Middle Tennessee country and the Middle Kentucky country filling with people. Louisville was a great trading center and Nashville was a gathering place. Then down the river came others and even before the French and Spaniards moved out men from the upper reaches were gathering on the Chickasaw Bluff at Randolph, at Helena and at Vicksburg. The country was fair to look upon. It startled the imagination of Burr and men of his sort until they hoped to build it up as a thing apart from the old colonies. It is a striking fact that the pioneers and builders of this region drew the best and the sturdiest from all of the older states. African slavery and the cotton gin had made the lowland planters of the Carolinas all-powerful. The sturdy and independent hard-working men of the hills felt a restraint that they knew was not fair to them. They wanted a free region. They were moved by that impulse which had been common to men on the border of civilization for centuries. They wanted more room and more freedom, so down into the higher regions of the Mississippi they crowded. Out of the mountains they passed over East and Middle Tennessee and came into West Tennessee and into Arkansas. They moved into Kentucky as well as into the lower states. But if the hardy and if the poor came they were quickly followed by the well-to-do. Slavery was not profitable in the high country, but it was profitable in the black lands of Alabama and along the water courses farther west. Before the war of 1812 there were fusing into this region currents of men and women — the best that could come from Georgia, the Carolinas and from the upper Ohio region. The second generation of those who had moved out into East and Middle Tennessee, into the Tennessee Valley and into Middle Kentucky again moved farther west. 8 At this period transportation began to develop in this region and was the chief controlling factor in its growth. Out of the upper rivers came the flat- boats. Even before the steamboat came into use there was a larger commerce on the Mississippi than on the Hudson. There was a cry in the east for canals. There were natural canals in the west. If the railroads had not been invented our river system would have devel oped this region faster than any other of the Union. Our second war with Great Britain found the people of the Mid-South ready to bear a hand. The region had already so developed that a state consciousness had asserted itself. It is one of the proud traditions that riflemen of Kentucky and Tennessee had much to do with the defeat of the British veterans at New Orleans. Men from Mississippi, calling themselves Mississippians, were in that same struggle. Already the great region west of the Allcghanies had found itself. Then that region covered by North Mississippi, West Tennessee, Kentucky and Arkansas had so shaped its fortunes that its people were active, energetic and filled with pride of territory along with the pride of race. This race pride was logical because the pioneers of this region were a cross-section of the strongest of all the classes of the older states. If there was not the coldness or austerity of the Puritan there was the solemnity of the Covenantor, coming through the Scotch and Irish from the Carolinas, with the joyousness and an abandon of those who had come out to Virginia because they had followed the ill-starred fortunes of the Stuarts. Men of education had come among us. In all the older homes today you will find books that were printed before the beginning of the last century and paintings that were the work of trained hands. Furniture and other household trappings showed in their selection and arrangement cultured and educated minds. The Mid-South took on a definite growth after the war of 1812. The Indians were in the way in Mississippi and in West Tennessee, but in spite of this there was progress. Mississippi was filled by men of culture and also by other men who if not educated in letters were strong in character. West Tennessee received more men and women from Middle Tennessee. Arkansas began to fill with English speaking people. Litigation, incident to the land titles granted by Spain, was pushed. The splendid region known as Crowley's Ridge drew a hardy class of set tlers. Hot Springs became a resort for health seekers. In 1819 James Miller, the hero of Lundy Lane, came to Arkansas as the first territorial governor and Crittenden of Kentucky was a high ofiicial. The people of Arkansas had the proper appreciation of the press. In 1819 we find W. E. Woodruff publishing a paper at Arkansas Post and printing the latest news from London, New York and Washington, which was as much as three months old. The Arkansas Gazette today is still an organ of light and education. Though Tennessee was a state almost from the close of the Revolution, West Tennessee grew along with Mississippi and Arkansas. Mississippi became a state in 1817, Memphis was incorporated in 1819 and Arkansas became a territory in 1819. These facts show the close unity of the Mid-South and that the development and growth for Arkansas, Tennessee and Mississippi run along parallel lines. Splendid men took a part in the affairs of these states in those days. If West Tennessee attracted the attention of Jackson, Overton and Winchester, Mississippi rejoiced in equally strong men. The first judges of the Supreme Court of Mississippi were Shields of Dela ware, Taylor of Pennsylvania, Hampton of South Carolina, Ellis of Virginia, Clarke of Pennsylvania, Stockton of New Jersey and Child of New England. Later, Maine sent to Mississippi Prentiss, and Quitman, a chancellor of that state, was from New York. Into the Mid-South came the best of the old families of the east and the northeast and pioneers, sons of men who had fought the British, fought the Indians and again fought the British. Agriculture flourished because there was river transportation. Cotton was profitably grown because slaves were here to cultivate it and New Orleans and Mobile were ports easy of access. But if there was growth along the Missis sippi there was also a splendid development in the valley of the Tennessee and in the upper reaches of the Alabama and Tombigbee. Be it remembered that if Jackson, Memphis, Little Rock and Helena were on the forming maps, that the regions around Aberdeen, Columbus and Pontotoc were fast developing. The wild furor of inflation and land speculation did not prove so disastrous in this region as it did in the upper latitudes. There was a business sense among our merchants and traders which enabled them to establish a banking system founded upon solid basis. The culture of many men in this region had a reaction in a demand for schools. In some families there were tutors and in others a teaching governess. In the smaller towns there were male schoolmasters who taught after the man ner of O'Hara, Barry and Forsythe of Kentucky. At the outbreak of the Civil War there was an academy, institute, a seminary or college in most of the county seats. The town of LaGrange in West Tennessee, to which the first railroad was projected from Memphis, was the seat of a famous school. Before the Civil War there were schools of more than local reputation at Holly Springs. Long before the war there was a school building in the midst of Court Square in Memphis. Men like Waddell, the elder Holmes and Byars were in many of the counties of Arkansas, Mississippi and Tennessee. Holmes came out from Pennsylvania as a missionary and after teaching and preaching near Pontotoc went to Tipton County where he established the Mountain Academy. The struggle for educa tion was characteristic of the people of this region even before the Mexican War. This struggle found the sons of Mississippi, Tennessee and Kentucky 10 ready to bear a mighty hand. It appealed to their old spirit of adventure, and they returned with larger ambitions and a broader perspective. Soon after the Mexican War a great convention of progressive men from the entire south was held in Memphis. The transportation problem had become interesting. America now controlled all the lands from the Atlantic to the Pacific and her people began to think along transcontinental lines. Throughout Mississippi and West Tennessee the effort for polite education was marked. The same was true in Central Arkansas. Young men, even in the early days, were sent to eastern universities. Many went to private colleges that clustered around Lexington, Danville, Bardstown and Lebanon in Ken tucky and certainly the University of Virginia drew its quota. Some of the young scholars of the far east came down to this region to teach ; later they became lawyers or public men and left their impress on the region. Prentiss came out of New England. George D. Prentice, the editor, came from the east to Kentucky. Among the early editors of the Memphis newspapers was a member of a distinguished New York family. There was a certain flavor in this genteel education that made for nicety in speech and in manner, a high regard for personal honor and a respect for woman. Even today in some of the older libraries in the Mid-South one will find the classics, Blair's Rhetoric, copies of Milton, Shakespeare, Young's "Night Thoughts," Pollock's "Course of Time," Abbott's "Life of Napoleon" and Hume's "History of England." The struggle for education was characteristic of our people before the Mexican War. The contest with Mexico attracted sons of Mississippi, Tennessee, Kentucky and Arkansas and they bore in it a great part. The country was filled with old men who were with Jackson at New Orleans. The sons of these men, inspired by what their fathers had done, were eager for an accounting with Mexico. Their resentment was fired by the massacre of Crockett and Bowie, both of whom had gone into Texas from this region. Another Tennessean, Sam Hous ton, had already made a name for himself in the southwest. When these young men came back from Mexico they had larger ambitions and a broader perspec tive. They saw the United States, a nation, covering the entire sweep of the nation from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Fifty years before France had drawn out of the valley, Spain which retired from Florida in 1820 had transferred its color of title to Mexico and the children of those who stood in the way of Spanish or French conquest in the Mid-South contributed mightily to annexing to the United States what Mexico had acquired by revolution. At the close of the Mexican wars the rivers of the Mid-South were crowded with boats, but these natural arteries did not meet the demands of the people. Land transportation was needed. Short lines of railroad were under construc tion. A road had been built from Memphis, Tennessee, to LaGrange, its objective being the Tennessee River, and railways were projected towards the west. The military road uniting the southwest with the east passed from Mem phis towards Little Rock, then towards Fort Smith. John C. Calhoun and the elder Brinkley saw the necessity for a transcon tinental railway system following generally the line of the 35th parallel. A 11 great convention of progressive men from the entire south was held in Memphis in the early 50s. Calhoun was here. A barrel filled with water at the Bay of Charleston was brought overland and a great ceremony was made of pouring it into the Mississippi. The Memphis & Charleston Railway was projected and other roads were outlined towards the west. One can now go by rail from Washington to Memphis, to Little Rock and on westward through El Paso, thence to Los Angeles with only one change of trains. This accomplishment would have been a fact before 1860 except for the slavery question, which involved not only geography, but also climate, and aroused a spirit that was beyond compromise. The northern people wanted a development towards the west through a northern tier of states. The natural drift would have been through Memphis. The war brought it about that St. Louis became the crossing point of the great river. Transcontinental railway systems were projected through the upper trail, with the result that soon after the war there was a continuous line of rails from St. Louis and Chicago to the Pacific coast. Except for the Civil War much of the greater part of the east and west transportation would have funnelled through this region. Even so, the Mid-South has become in the development of the country the center of a mighty transportation system. Along the South western Trail, along Jackson's military road from the east into the southwest, and into the west there are completed railway systems. The natural vahie of these routes was never better demonstrated than during the World War. More soldiers crossed the great river at Memphis than at any other point. The test of war showed the logical lines and logical routes. But if at the close of the Mexican War there were a few miles of railway in the south before the opening of the Civil War one could travel by train from Memphis, Chattanooga, through Knoxvillc, through Bristol then to Richmond; thence to Washington and from Washington to New York. This was the first great southern railway system. Another road had been built from Louisville through Nashville and through Northern Alabama. The Mobile & Ohio Railroad had already met the requirements of its name. The line from New Orleans north through Grand Junction was under way with regular schedules as far up as Jackson, Mississippi. The Little Rock and Memphis system had been projected. The opening of the Civil War found the Mid-South filled with prosperous people on the high ground. All over West Tennessee, Northern and East Mis sissippi schools were being built, roads were being opened, courts were held on regular schedules, the musters attracted great crowds and the people were eagerly discussing politics as formerly advocated by Andrew Jackson of Ten nessee as opposed to the politics preached by Henry Clay of Kentucky. In those days two strong parties were built up in all the southern states. Men of character, intelligence and education were opposing leaders. The Mem phis Appeal and Arkansas Gazette daily devoted from eight to nine columns of their space to the discussion of political questions and, often, all of their space to the reporting of some speech made by some great leader. Probably in no other region did the law draw unto its practice men of so high attainments. With all 12 that there was not that ease coming from established fortunes which destroyed the spirit of energy and labor. Society was still developing. The spirit of youth was over the land. While on some of the plantations there were great colonies of slaves, in other regions there was a sturdy population of white men who lived close to the soil and who had in them the vigor and strength of the pioneer and the freeman who cared more for personal rights and personal freedom than the mere loading of property. So when the Civil War came, except from along the western shores of the Tennessee River, every one, almost, enlisted in the armies of the Confederacy. Some fought to defend their own region, but many marched away to the army of Virginia and, as the struggle waxed, they gave a splendid account of them selves at first Manassas, second Manassas and at Gettysburg, where they were all but destroyed. The turning points in the Civil War were in this Mid-South. In order to succeed the Confederate leaders recognized that the south must not be cut in twain by the enemy holding the Mississippi. The strategists in charge of the northern army struggled from the beginning to secure a water route from St. Louis to the Gulf. So in '61 there was a fight at Belmont where Grant, dropping down the river from Cairo, first met an enemy which was to confront him for four years at Donelson, Shiloh, Vicksburg, Missionary Ridge and Petersburg and finally giving away at Appomattox. Island No. 10 in the same Mid-South was fortified heavily. In despair of getting through quickly by the river route, the federals struck at Fort Donelson in Middle Tennessee and then at Shiloh. At this Shiloh in the spring of '62 the unprepared but brave armies of both sides met in a deadly struggle. After Shiloh Corinth became a place of strategy. Simultaneously with Shiloh there was a naval battle in front of Memphis. But not until more than a year later did Vicksburg surrender and Helena give occupation to Federal troops. A student of history of the war finds that Shiloh, Belmont and Vicksburg in this Mid-South were immense factors in the equation of blood and death which was solved two years later. In some counties in this region more men went to the armies than there were voters. Only the very young and the very old men remained at home. We complained of the scarcity of man-power in the World War and yet there were taken only the young men. In the Civil War the boys of sixteen and the men of sixty went in. And yet the women and the children, the crippled and the invalids "carried on" at home. This Mid-South during those four years contributed enormous supplies of cat tle, horses and food to the fighting soldiers. Indeed, that splendid region of East Mississippi in which now cluster the thriving cities of Aberdeen, Tupelo, West Point and Columbus was called the "granary of the Confederacy" and the Confederates successfully defended and produced great supplies in it until the fall of '64. When the end came this region was prostrated, gins had been destroyed, fences had been burned, roads were wrecked and bridges were down. The 13 country was denuded of livestock ; the money of the people had gone with the blood of their children into the support of the Lost Cause. The white people were poverty stricken, the negroes were free and penniless. The victorious army policed the land. The tragedy of Lincoln and the vindictiveness of those who had fought the war in speech, but not on the battlefields, brought about a condition that would have broken the heart of people of less courage. In spite of the furies of reconstruction, in spite of the bitterness of politics and of the rule of strangers the rebound of the Mid-South is one of the marvels in the history of the state of society after wars. The railroads were rebuilt, men broken in fortune but not in spirit sought to construct others. Young men returning from the army labored at the first thing in sight. Passing down from the hills many of them began to open the low lands along the river. Within five years after the close of the Civil War all of the great trunk lines of railways now in existence were projected. Far-seeing men began to advocate the confining of the waters of the great river within its banks. Here and there it was suggested that the holding of these waters was a national problem. Notwithstanding the rule of the hostile party, the prac tical disfranchisement of the white people and the wild orgies of office holders in state capitals, the Mid-South in 1873 had gathered sufficient strength to with stand the panic with less loss and less suffering than were marked in the east and north. After '76 the people got their local government under their own control and there was orderly development interrupted only by two sweeps of pestilence, the causes of which science has discovered and the occurrence of which will be no more.Before 1890, competing lines of railways had been completed from Mem phis to New Orleans, from Memphis to the west, from Memphis to the east and from Memphis to the north. The commerce of the Mid-South began to flow on iron rails from Chicago to the Gulf. The grain and livestock products of the west were funnelled through Alem- phis into the southeast. Memphis, Helena, Little Rock, Jackson, Tennessee, Clarksdale, Mississippi, and Tupelo and the other towns of the Mid-South were not only joined to one another by rail, but in many cases by competing lines. The Mid-South had prepared to come into its own. The forces of develop ment and reconstruction had finally come into active play. The great bridge was projected across the Mississippi at Memphis. The first train ran over it in the spring of '92. In the meantime, the levee was completed from the Chickasaw Bluff's east of the river, as far south as the mouth of the Yazoo. Since the beginning of the century pioneers had driven into these lowlands. Before the war the region around Lake Washington was populated by men who came out from the Carolinas into Kentucky, and along the high banks of bayous and along the elevated shores of the river there were plantations. Arkansas caught the spirit of Mississippi and was determined to shut the waters of the great river out of the basin. Then bold spirits said that the river must be held to its banks all the way from Cairo to New Orleans, and in this good year that work has been completed. St. Francis Basin is a smiling plain 14 dotted with growing cities. Helena lies on the brow of Crowley's Ridge with the vast alluvial countries to the north and the south. In the Yazoo Delta men go from city to city on the highways where forty years ago there was a jungle cut through here and there by lazy bayous. The levees, railroads, and bridges across the river have been the vital artificial forces in the building up of this region. Its further development rests in vehicle high ways and in canals. These men who first pioneered into the St. Francis Basin and into the Yazoo Delta were great builders. Many of them have been for gotten. Some have left behind them prosperous families and great fortunes, others, for themselves, lost the struggle, but they contributed much for the benefit of their neighbors. The opening of the Yazoo Delta and the St. Francis Basin to cultivation is a romance of agricultural development like which there is no parallel, even in the valley of the Nile or the old lands between the Tigris and the Euphrates, which thousands of years ago blossomed as a garden, then died and which is about to be resurrected under the touch of the conquering English. l.S Soil, Climate and Production of the Mid-South By C . P . J . M 0 0 n e y I HE objective of this book is to put into type a series of facts that will show the territory called the Mid-South to have made more progress in development during the last quarter of a century than any other region in the United States and to demonstrate that no other region offers a better opportunity to the farmer, the merchant and the manufacturer. The Mid- South has the most fertile natural soil of any region in the world. No other region is better for living during the entire year. It is unique in moderation of climate, in average of rainfall and in variety of resources. The Mid-South is that region covering West Kentucky, West Tennessee, part of the Tennessee River Valley in Alabama, the northern half of Mississippi, the eastern half of Arkansas and southeast Missouri. It is cut in twain, north and south, by the Mississippi River. It is touched on the east and partly on the north by the Ohio and Tennessee. The Arkansas, White and the St. Francis cut through it west of the Mississippi. East of the great river are the Obion, Hatchie, Forked Deer of West Tennessee, the Tombigbee, the Yallobusha, Tallahatchie, Yazoo and the Sunflower. No part of the Mid-South is far away from a large water course. Much of it is within an easy distance of navigable streams. Not only is it well watered on the surface, but under a great part of it is a sheet of artesian water. The annual rainfall is higher than the average of rain in other parts of the Mississippi Valley. The temperature in the lower half, below Memphis, reaches a freezing point only during two months in the year. The heat of the summer is never so intense as to bring about difficulties to man or beast. One seldom hears of sunstroke in this region. The experiments of the last quarter of a century have reached a point where one can stand safely on the statement that the Mid-South is the richest agri cultural region in the world. Two products furnish bread to the entire world, one is wheat, the other is rice. The Mid-South produces both. One product is more used than anything else for clothing and covering : that is cotton. The production of cotton in the Mid-South is greater in quantity and better in quality than in any other region in the world. The third element in the living economy of man and beast is corn. Corn is one of the Mid-South's great crops. 16 From Iceland to Australia men use tobacco. In the Mid-South is the heav iest dark tobacco production in the world. In the Mid-South are vast regions where five crops of alfalfa can be har vested for fifteen years. From four to six crops have been harvested annually in this region. In the alluvial region, in the St. Francis and the Yazoo Basin, no soil preparation in the way of inoculation or lime need to be made. The elements for the growth of alfalfa are already here. The Mid-South is the natural region of the Bermuda grass and lespedeza. After the heavy field crops the tremendous element in living is the home and the commercial garden. In the Mid-South there is an enormous trucking indus try. Out of it every year go hundreds of trains of tomatoes, strawberries, sweet and Irish potatoes and all other vegetables peculiar to a temperate zone. An index to the unique productivity of this region is the statement that after one has harvested a crop of wheat one can plant on the same land and harvest before frost either a crop of corn or cowpeas. One can gather a crop of early potatoes or reap a crop of oats and gather a second crop before the winter from the same soil. After food and clothing the next necessity of man is housing and furniture. The Mid-South is filled with hardwood timber and in the lower reaches are great forests of pine and brakes of cypress. The city of Memphis, which is in the heart of the Mi