YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

The
EDWIN J. BEINECKE, '07
FREDERICK W. BEINECKE, '09S
WALTER BEINECKE, '10
FUND

RECOLLECTIONS:

Australia, England, Ireland, Scotland,
New Zealand.

BY
ALFRED COX.

",A1I travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, he
may learn to improve his own ; and if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn
to enjoy his own."— Johnson.

CHRISTCHURCH, N.Z. :
WHITCOMBE & TOMBS (LIMITED).
1884.

PREFACE.

" 'Tis pleasant, sure, to see one's name in print.
A book's a book although there's nothing in't. "
Under this impression I have published the following pages, trusting
that my readers " Whene'er they take in hand my book
May put away their sterner look." —Old M.S. (iph Century).

CONTENTS.

pAGi£
CHAPTER I.
Introductory — Australia in 1788 — New South Wales Corps — My Father
— Road-making over the " Blue Mountains " — His Journal — The
Bathhurst Plains — The Population of the Colony at that time — The
Game of Whist — My Father's Politics i
CHAPTER II.
Rebellion of Military and People — Governor Bligh — John Macarthur —
Henry Kingsley's View - 10
CHAPTER III.
The Convict Class — My Father as a Master — Ambition of the Class to
have their Children well-educated — My Father's First Family — Mrs.
Chisholm in Australia — Free Grants of Land — Anecdote of Early
Governor and his Aide-de-Camp 14
CHAPTER IV.
A.D. 1821 — My Father's Second Family — My Mother — Life in a Convict
Colony — Large Establishments — Runaway Convicts — " Sticking Up "
— Flute-playing and Singing — School days 22
CHAPTER V.
Music — William Vincent Wallace. 29
CHAPTER VI.
1844 — My First Trip to England — France — Scotland — Switzerland — Up
the Rhine — Englishmen Abroad 32
CHAPTER VII.
Ireland in 1846 — The Potato Disease — Dublin — Belfast — Galway— Limerick
— Killamey — Cork — Back to Dublin — Daniel O'Connell 42
CHAPTER VIII.
South Australia — Victoria — Tasmania — 1847 56
CHAPTER IX.
New South Wales— Bank of Australia Case— My Marriage— Climate , of
Australia 60

VI. Page
CHAPTER X.
New Zealand— How I came to Visit it— Canterbury — Its People— Its Plains
—My First Trip to South Canterbury ^
„ CHAPTER XI.
1854 — Auckland — The General Assembly — First and succeeding Parliaments 78
CHAPTER XII.
1855 — Voyage to England — England 81
CHAPTER XIII.
New Zealand — Nelson — Overland Trip to Christchurch 86
CHAPTER XIV.
Second Visit to the South — Favourably Impressed — Resolved to Settle in
the Country — Return to Australia — Voyage back to Timaru with
Family 91
CHAPTER XV.
Cracroft Wilson — In New Zealand and India 95
CHAPTER XVI.
Enter Public Life — Timaru Meeting — Superintendents of Provinces — Fitz-
Gerald — Moorhouse — Bealey — RoUeston — Macandrew — Williamson —
Featherston — Provinces of Nelson and Taranaki 108
CHAPTER XVII.
Court Scene — Deafness — Miss Rye 141
CHAPTER XVIII.
1867 — Sir George Grey - 147
CHAPTER XIX.
My Visit to Taupo and the Neighbouring Country 161

CHAPTER XX.
North Island — Sir Donald McLean

175

CHAPTER XXI.
Judge Maning ,go
CHAPTER XXII.
The Maoris — Their Friends — Bishop Selwyn and Others — My First \-isit

to Waikato

184

vu. Page
CHAPTER XXIII.
Settlers North and South — The Climate of the North Island 192
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Canterbury Museum ¦'*i97
CHAPTER XXV.
Canterbury Agricultural and Pastoral Association 206
CHAPTER XXVI.
Canterbury Newspapers — The Lyttelton Times — The Press — Crosbie Ward
— Mr. John OUivier 208
CHAPTER XXVII.
Christ's College Grammar School — Open to all throughout New Zealand —
William John Warburton Hamilton — Henry John Tancred 218
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Mr. Dobson, the late Provincial Engineer — His connection with the Lyt
telton and Christchurch Railway Tunnel — Dr. Barker 224
CHAPTER XXIX.
Sir Frederick Whitaker 227
CHAPTER XXX.
Sir Edward Stafford — Colonel Sir George Whitmore —The Colonial Forces - 235
CHAPTER XXXI.
Sir William Fox 240
CHAPTER XXXII.
Sir Frederick Weld 246
CHAPTER XXXIIL
Sir John Hall ^ - 249
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Mr. Henry Sewell - - - 252
CHAPTER XXXV.
Sir Julius Vogel • 259
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Christchurch Cathedral 265

RECOLLECTIONS.

-!¦¦!— ^

CHAPTER L
Introductory — Australia in 17S8 — New South Wales Corps — My Father — Road-
making over the " Blue Mountains '' — His Journal — The Bathhurst Plains —
The Population of the Colony at that time— The Game of Whist — My Father's
Politics.
FoLLO-wiNG a prevailing fashion, I am -vvriting down my Recollec
tions. They extend over a period of forty-nine or fifty years. I am
commencing this -work in the early part of 1883 ; undertaking it in
the hope that it may interest my family and a few intimate friends.
To the former, New South Wales, the land of my birth and the
colony in which I have passed quite half of my life, is, in truth, a
terra incognita.
New South Wales is the parent of the group of settlements now-
known as Australia. It dates its existence from the year 1788, about
eighteen years after the great continent was taken possession of on
behalf of Great Britain by Captain Cook, the ^orld-renowned navi
gator. In that year Governor Philip, the first Australian Governor,,
landed at Botany Bay, where he disembarked a thousand souls.
And at or about the same time was sent out to Australia His Majesty's-
102nd Regiment, to preserve order amongst those " who had left
their country for their country's good." In this regiment, my
father, William Cox, held a commission. It is altogether incorrect
to speak of this settlement on the sands of Botany Bay as a colony B

at that time. It was simply, at that early date, what for many
years it was righdy called, a convict station ; selected by the
Home Government, probably both on account of its remoteness
from the Old Country and the salubriousness of its climate. This
New South Wales corps was specially organised for service in the
settlement. .
When this settlement was first formed, it could hardly have
entered into the imagination of the Home Government to forecaste
its not very remote future. In that future we may now be said to be
living. Speaking, generally, of these Australian Colonies, we now
see a race growing up around us, carrying on the world's work
with the same enterprise and energy that distinguished the first
settlers, their fathers, to whom, it has often been remarked, they
are in no respect inferior. Within the short space of the life of
one generation, or less, have been witnessed the rise, estabUsh-
ment, and progress of the so-called rival colonies of Victoria,
Tasmania, Queensland, South Australia, and Western AustraUa.
South Australia was planted by the old country, and from its
first establishment, rightly and proudly claimed the position and
honour of having been colonised on systematic principles.
It says much, indeed, for the climate and natural resources of
these highly favoured lands, that, in so short a time, so large a
measure of success should have resulted from the enterprise and
energy of the first settlers. Only a few short years ago, what was
then, in truth, nothing but a wilderness, is now a flourishing state ;
equal in acquired wealth and financial stability to some of the
smaller states of the old world, and affording happy homes to well-
nigh three millions of inhabitants of European extraction.
The result of this first attempt to colonise and utilise the great
continent of Australia, this resolve of strong men to go out and
possess the land, was, indeed, most satisfactory. Is it to be wondered
at that men now speak of it with something like pride, and point to
it as a well-developed plant of an Australis Gigantea ?
Henry Kingsley, some time a colonist in Victoria, and so well-
known in the world of literature, in writing of Australia and its early
history, speaks thus of it :— " There hes among the pleasant southern
seas, an island, as large as Europe — an island, lone, melancholy,
until lately, desolate — the largest, and possibly the grandest island
in the world ; the land of lonely rivers, and level grey plains • the

land of wool and corn, inalculable to the human mind ; the land of
gold and jewels." And he asks, " Who were to have this wondrous
land, -which lay for countless thousands of years in a summer sea,
waiting for its owners ? " And he answers thus : " God designed
that country for us." He says further, "At about this time (1789)
the British Government were beginning to find out that hanging men
for petty theft was a large mistake. Anyhow, hanging did no good.
Transportation was tried, and the great dominion of Australia
founded." He writes at some length of the efforts made by
Governors Phillip, Hunter and King to estabUsh and maintain
order amongst the convicts ; and, " by degrees," he says, " they got
order out of confusion ; staggering and uncertain cosmos out of
utter chaos ; and the thing throve." And in speaking of the early
settlers, he says, " The men who landed at the bottom of Bridge
street, Sydney, had to hit out from the shoulder, and did so. It
was a hard struggle for a long time, but civilisation won steadily
in spite of all the terrible elements she had to contend with. She
had, for her assistance, a young race, quite indomitable, and in the
long run, she won."
This 102nd Regiment contributed largely to the first body of
settlers in the colony.
I am unable to speak with confidence as to the length of my
father's service in that corps. I only know that it soon became clear
to him that there was something better than soldiering to be done
in the colony of New South Wales. He found out by experience
that its cUmate fitted it to be a home for Englishmen ; and believing
that its grazing capabilities would be found to be of almost unlimited
extent, he quickly and very prudently came to the conclusion that,
with a family of sons growing up around him, it would be wise in
him to doff the red coat, and to lose no time in taking advantage of
the facilities of acquiring land in leasehold and freehold, at that time
pressed upon military settlers by the Colonial Government. And
the life that he then, with great confidence, entered upon, proved
as profitable as it was congenial. His case was that of many others
in the regiment, who had little cause to repent of the step taken,
when they ceased to serve the king as soldiers, and became settlers
in the old colony of New South Wales. But my father, in many
ways, abundantly proved that, although he had suddenly ceased to
be a soldier, he had no idea of shirking duty as a citizen ; being.

as his letters and memoranda plainly show, ever ready, when called
upon by the Colonial Government to undertake duties involving
responsibihty. In those early days of settlement, professional surveyors and
educated engineers, qualified to superintend the construction of
public works, such as roads and bridges, were not easily, if at all, in
deed, to be found in the colony. I have now before me a journal
kept by him in the year 1814, whilst in charge of a working party
made up of ticket-of-leave men and convicts. This party was
engaged in surveying, laying out, and forming a road through the
great barrier of the "Blue Mountains" to Bathurst, then a newly
discovered grazing country, lying some one hundred and thirty
miles, or thereabouts, to the westward of Sydney. Accompanying
the party was a military guard ; partly for protection against
anticipated attacks by the aborigines, and partly to travel to and
from Sydney to convey despatches to the Governor, reporting
progress of work done, and to bring back supplies to the working
party. There is not much of great interest in this record of every
day work ; but there is in it enough to show that my father had put
upon him a work which his varied experience and aptitude for
governing men well qualified him to perform. As a proof that he
had a proper notion of discipline, I find, in his journal, at the very
outset, that on one occasion a man, refusing to receive orders sent
through a superintendent, was sent for, reprimanded, and told that
it was no business of his to refuse to receive orders or instructions
through any source that was most convenient, and that such in
stances of insubordination would not be tolerated. On another
occasion, there would appear to have been some murmurs of
discontent, and a disposition on the part of some of the men
employed to shirk work, for I find the following entry : — " Several
of the men to-day appeared to show an inclination to give in;.
five struck work, feigning sickness, most of whom are, in my opinion,
quite as well as myself I sent for them, and after satisfying myself
that they were shamming, I gave them a reproof in good earnest,
and I quite expect to see them all the better for it by to-morrow
morning." For the first forty miles, the country through which the road
was being laid out could only be described as a wilderness 
hardly growing sufficient grass to graze the horses and working

bullocks employed. But, as they worked their way onward to the
westward, they met with good grass, and plenty of it. Nearly six
months had passed from the time of setting out in July, before he
expressed approval of the country as a grazing ground. He then
writes of it in the following terms : — " Going westerly, we came to
a valley where the grass was so good that I could not resist the
temptation to ride on to ascertain the extent of country so well
covered with sweet-looking grass. And I found that the grass in
this valley was the best and thickest on the ground that I had,
up to this time, seen in the colony." Entering this country, they met
with kangaroos and emus, ducks and pigeons, in great numbers, but
from the want of trained dogs, they had some difficulty in securing
many of them. From this point the whole of the rest of their work
lay through a grassy region, and on reaching the plains of Bathurst,
he speaks of the country "as closely resembling an English park;"
going on to say that the " whole line of country that he had ex
amined, extending twenty miles or more in a westerly direction,
would make most excellent grazing farms." And a few years later,
and many years before he died the line of country that he was just
entering was eagerly taken up and occupied. I know it well. I
first visited it in the year 1843, and notwithstanding all that I have
since seen and ridden through, of new country and native grasses, I
am still inclined to think and speak of it as a highly favoured
locality, being as well suited to the production of merino wool of
the finest quality as any more recently-occupied grazing country
throughout Australia or New Zealand. My father occupied a large
extent of these plains, when they were first leased to squatters ; and,
subsequently, he acquired a large freehold in the district. .
At the time of my father's undertaking this work of superin
tending road-making, he must have been quite fifty years of age ; but
he seems to have been physically equalto the task. In his journal
I find but one entry, from first to last, where he a|)pears to have been
overtaken by illness, or a threatening of it. And here, abruptly, ends
this journal, after a few more unimportant entries. He had reached
the limit of the work that he had undertaken to superintend ; and^
with his party, he had succeeded in forming a road available for traffic.
This road was, from time to time, repaired and irriproved by convict
labour, up to the time of the laying out of a new road by Sir
Thomas Mitchell, the Surveyor-General of the colony. Over these

roads I have many times ridden and driven. My father spent twelve
long months engaged in this work. Since that time, the New South
Wales world has not stood still. There is now a railway running
through the wilderness, tapping the country beyond, and opening up
a territory that few men, who have not visited that part of Australia,
have any conception of the magnitude and richness of
Often, when a boy, have I had pointed out to me buildings and
bridges planned, contracted for, and constructed by my father, in
those earliest time?. It was generally said of works that he had
anything to do with, that they were obviously made to last. It some
times happened that, in a newly-setded district, where a bridge was
urgently needed, he would undertake to build one, on the condition
of being allowed to charge tolls for a limited period, for the use of
such by the public.
At this time, my father seemed to have been the local repre
sentative of the Government in the district in which he lived. He
was also (as all old military settlers were, of necessity,) a magistrate
for the colony, and continued to act as one throughout his long and
busy life.
Government in the colony of New South Wales, at that time,
meant little more than the arbitrary will of a Governor. And
indeed, in those days, it was the only possible form of government
The colony consisting exclusively of convicts and ticket-of-leave
men, and retired officers of the army and navy placed in authority
over them.
I was but twelve years of age when my father died : and although
I have a very distinct recollection of him, I can hardly be expected
to be able to give a very full account of his life and character, his
sayings and doings. All that I ever heard from the hps of his first
family, in speaking of their father, showed that, by them, he was
regarded as a good father. They spoke of him as a man of intelU-
gence, of great energy, and remarkable for his many-sidedness. By
the outside world he was held in high esteem for his public spirit
and enterprise. In the days to which I have been referring, in those
earliest days of the Colony of New South Wales, an active-minded man,
such as he was — a man of deeds more than of words — had endless
opportunities of serving the public— was, perhaps, as useful in his
way as the professed politician, and the ever-ready-to-go-to-a-meeting
man of to-day. One thing stands out clearly in the accounts o-iven of

him by his contemporaries, and that is, that he was ever found to
the front in advocating measures of public concern, and never spared
himself when the day of performance was at hand. In looking back
to those days, taking into account the difficulties that beset him as
one in authority, ever before the public, the obstacles that he had
to face, struggle with, and conquer, I am quite inclined to say that
he left no son to succeed him who, surrounded by the same
circumstances, would have done more with the materials at his
command than he did.
A portrait of my father; taken when he was about forty years of
age, and in his uniform, shows him to have been a smart-looking,
well-set-up man, of average height, somewhat square build, and of
regular features. I think his son James, of his first family, was in
face and figure most like his father. I only remember him in his
last days, say, from the age of sixty-five to seventy-two, when he
died, after a somewhat protracted illness. At the time I speak of,
he was thin and spare-looking ; a sufferer from gout and other
ailments, that rendered him unfit for much walking or riding.
He was fond of horses, although in no sense a horsey man,
and lost no time in having us taught to ride. I have not forgotten
that our first lessons in riding were on the back of a donkey, and no
stirrups allowed ; but as soon as we were thought equal to the
management of a horse, we were provided with one, allowed to speak
of it as our own private property, and expected to show an
appreciation of the indulgence by not ill-using the animal. It was his
delight to see us well mounted, and off in any direction that
our inclination led us. ¦ On one occassion, a junior master of
our school was spending his holidays with us, and ambitious
of showing off his riding, was more than ready to accompany us in
our rides. He was one of the race not yet extinct, of whom De
Quincy once said, in speaking of an individual of it, " Sir, that man
is the horsiest man on foot, and the footiest man ' on a horse, that it
has ever been my ill-lnck to encounter." Now my father loved
horses ; knew all about them ; how to treat them, and how
to ride them. Imagine, then, his surprise and indignation at seeing
this buoyant and irrepressible tutor go off at a gallop from
the door, bringing down his whip on the flank of his horse,
and causing the horse to stride away in Kangaroo-like bounds. But
his horse was not quick enough to carry him out of reach of hearing

himself branded as a Cockney, and that he should never again throw
his leg over a horse that he, my father, had anything to do with.
My father dearly loved the game of whist ; was accounted a
skilful player, playing every evening that he could make up a table,
and often, in the absence of older heads and abler hands, pressed us
small boys into the service. I am sometimes incUned to think that
the being made to play this game of games at so early an age,
sickened me of the game ever afterwards.
On the occasion of my first going to Wellington as a member of
the House of Representatives, I remember cautioning my friend of
friends, Cracroft Wilson, also a member at that time, not under any
circumstances to ask me, or allow me to be asked, to take a hand at
whist, as I had resolved never to play, for the two good reasons, that
I had no fancy for the game, and had no notion of sitting up half
the night over cards. It thus soon got to be understood by card-
players that I was not one of themselves. But, on one occasion,
when it was found impossible to make up a table without pressing
me into the service, I reluctantly consented to take a hand. My
faithful friend, however, believing that I was doing -violence to
my inclination, rushed into the room with a subsUtute, and insisted
upon my giving up my place at the table. I humoured him, and
retired. The next morning, at breakfast, I was told, by a mutual
friend, that I had no sooner left the room, than Cracroft Wilson
turned to him, and said, " Has Cox been drinking to-night ? I
never before saw him willing to join in a game of whist."
Not a bad story was, at that time, being told, at Wellington, of
another of the " Innocents Abroad ; " of course, also a member of
the ever-to-be-respected House of Representatives. He, as I had
been, was importuned to play on an occasion when there appeared to
be some difficulty to hunt up the requisite number to make up a table;
and he, as I had done, at last yielded to pressure ; first protesting,
however, that he really knew nothing of the game, had never played,
but that he had no objection to being taught it — innocently asking
how many were requisite to play the game. On being told four, he
made one of the four, played all the evening, showed by his brilliant
play that he wanted no teaching, and got up a winner of a consider
able sum of money.
But to return to the colony of New South Wales, with which I
have by no means done;

My father ever took a strong and intelligent interest in politics.
If I am to be asked what were his politics, I should be inclined to
admit that he was somewhat of a " Radical," calling himself a
"Liberal," and exhibiting, at the same time, as pronounced a prejudice
in favour of all things English as the most out-and-out representative
of Jingoism or Conservatism run wild during this highly enlightened
age.

CHAPTER H.
Rebellion of Military and People— Governor Bligh— John Macarthur— Henry
Kingsley's View.
In the history of the first twenty years of the Colony of New
South Wales is recorded a rebellion of the military and the people.
A certain number of the leading men in public affairs, encouraged
by the military authorities, and backed up by the people, took the
extreme course of deposing the Governor, shipping him off to the old
country, labelling him as " tried, and found wanting," and wholly
unfit for a Governor ; and earnesdy praying those responsible for the
good government of the colony not to send them such another.
My father, when asked if he had been one of the rebels, rephed
that he was absent in England during the commotion; but his
friends were bold enough to say, that had he been in the colony
during the great crisis, he most certainly would have been foremost
amongst them. Those who have written in a judicial spirit of this
interesting episode in the history of the colony, are pretty unanimous
in speaking of it as a rebellion provoked by the arbitrary disposition
and acts of the Governor. Of course, the Imperial authorities
could not wholly overlook such a gross act of insubordination on
the part of the military and the people; and lost no time in
bringing to trial Major Johnstone, the commanding oflScer of the New
South Wales Corps — the result being that he was cashiered, and his
regiment disbanded.
The colony was now growing in population and wealth ; and to
preserve order thenceforth, one or two regiments of the line were
stationed in the principal centres of settlement up and down the
colony. Extracts of a book, entitled, " First Twenty Years of Austraha,''
by James Bonwick, F.R.G.S., published in 1882, may fittingly be
inserted here. The author goes somewhat fully into the question of
the great rebellion in the little colony. It was conceived, organised,
and to a large extent developed by John Macarthur, of the New South
Wales Corps. He was, at this period of the history of the colony,
certainly the foremost and most enterprising of its settlers.

Developing at a rapid rate into a rich and influential man, he
seemed to provoke the jealousy, if not ill-will, of Governors.
This strained relation between Governors and governed had
perceptibly existed during the rule of Governors Phillip and Hunter,
both of whom had, in their day, represented to the Home Govern
ment that Mr. John Macarthur was certainly getting to exercise too
great an influence in public affairs. But the authorities in the old
country seemed not to be much disturbed by the information ; they,
at any rate, took no steps to lessen that influence. Meanwhile,
Governor Bligh arrived in the colony ; and from the day of his
arrival to the hour of his departure, Mr. Macarthur seems to have
been treated by His Majesty's representative as a man to be ' put
down' at anycost. Mr. Macarthur, however, was not a man to
be put down easily — had no notion, even, of submitting patiently
to what he regarded as persecution. Gathering around him a large
body of sympathisers, men of influence, from all parts of the colony,
he defied the Governor ; and placed himself in communication with
his commanding officer, who, acting under Mr. Macarthur's
inspiration and direction, took the bold step of deposing the Governor.
The requisition, drawn up and forwarded to Major Johnstone,
the officer in command of the 102nd Regiment, imploring him to
relieve the colony of the incubus that rested upon it in the person of
Governor Bligh, was in the following terms ; — ' The present alarming
state of this colony, in which every man's property, liberty,
and life are endangered, induces us most earnestly to implore
you to place Governor Bligh under arrest, and to assume the
control of the colony. We pledge ourselves, at a moment of less
agitation, to come forward to support the measure with our fortunes
and our lives.' In accordance with the above requisition. Major
Johnstone lost no time in communicating with the Governor,
and in the following terms: — 'Sir, — I am called upon to execute
a most painful duty. You are charged, By the respectable
inhabitants, of crimes that render you unfit to exercise the
supreme authority another moment in this colony ; and in
that charge, all the officers under my command have joined.
I, therefore, require you, in His Majesty's sacred name, to
resign your authority, and to submit to be arrested. I now place
you under arrest, by the advice of all my officers, and with the
approval of every respectable inhabitant of the town of Sydney.'

On the following day, the Governor was formally deposed;
bonfires were lighted at the corners of almost every street ; magis
trates were dismissed, &c., &c. ; and on the same day, Major
Johnstone issued the following proclamation : — ' The public peace
being happily, and I trust in Almighty God, permanently
established, I hereby proclaim the cessation of martial law. I have
this day appointed magistrates, and other public functionaries,
from amongst the most respectable officers and inhabitants.
In future, no man shall have just cause to complain of
violence, injustice, or oppression ; no free man shall be taken, im
prisoned, or deprived of his home, land, or Uberty, but by law.
Justice shall be impartially administered, -without regard to, or respect
of persons, and every man shall enjoy the fruits of his industry in
security, &c., &c." Thus ended the great rebelhon of the New
South Wales Corps and the colonists. The sequel was that Major
Johnstone was cashiered, and the corps became one of the
ordinary regiments of the line (103rd), and was removed for ever
from New South Wales. Major Johnstone returned to Sydney
as a settler, and lived there for many years, much respected.
The civil power again became dominant, and no miUtary or
militia ever again interfered with the safety of Government, or the
peace of the citizens.
Henry Kingsley, before quoted, has something to say of the
rebellion, and of the Governor who provoked it. He -writes : — " The
first real sign of civilisation was, of course, a rebelhon. Our old
friend and hero, 'Bligh,' of the 'Bounty,' who had successfully proved
that his temper was so atrocious that he could not keep a picked
crew of excellent men in order, was, for some inscrutable reason,
' told off ' to administer this colony, just at the very time when
free settlers were becoming powerful, and when the most perfect
tact and caution were required. The end was an explosion. The
troops mutinied, &c., &c. The part that Captain John Macarthur
took in the rebellion is well-nigh forgotten ; but the enterprise and
energy displayed by him, from first to last, in establishing the re
putation of New South Wales as an unlimited and unsurpassed field
for pastoral pursuits, is not, ought not, and never will be forgotten
by all good colonists. He introduced into Australia the merino
sheep. In the year 1800, they numbered some three or four
hundred ; they now number thirty millions, or more. A little over

13
ninety years ago, the population of this continent, as large as
Europe, numbered i,ooo strong. The population of the united
colonies, ten years ago, was 1,670,000. Their revenue, in the
same year, was ;^io,i94,ooo." In conclusion, he says, "The object
of our race is to civilise the earth ; and we have not done very
badly, with such figures as these before us.'' There is recorded
also, in the early history of New South Wales, a flickering of
the flame of rebellion among the Irish exiles, which would appear
to have been promptly snuffed out by the same Major Johnstone,
who had played so prominent and important a part in the great
rebellion.

. CHAPTER HL
The Convict Class— My Father as a Master— Ambition of the Class to have their
Children Well Educated— My Father's First Family— Mrs. Chisholm in
Australia — Free Grants of Land — Anecdote of Early Governor and his Aide-
de-Camp.
My father had,' amongst his servants, the reputation of being a
good master. I have often heard his old servants, mostly of the
convict class, best specimens of which I always took a strong personal
interest in, say of him, that there had never been a better master in
the colony. I remember enough of him to know that he was very
strict in his requirements as to work, ever hating a lazy man, but
ready, at all times, and in every way, to encourage and help along
the road of life a man who, turning his back upon his miserable
past, showed a strong determination to turn over a new leaf,
and to lead a new and a better life. By many such men,
he had the good fortune to be well and faithfully served. In
my early days, having had pointed out to me a good few of old
men formerly his assigned servants (convicts) who had been,
singularly successful in business, having grown rich indeed ; I can
well believe that he at once recognised a strong and likely man. In
those days, it cost him but little to serve such men — it was but to
put them into the way of doing something for themselves, to
ensure their future prosperity. In the position that he occupied, at
that time, endless opportunities of serving his old and faithful
servants presented themselves ; and it is highly satisfactory to know,
having been told as much by those who, in many ways, had sub
stantially benefitted by his kind consideration, that he seldom lost
time in giving effect to his good intentions.
I have before me, at this moment, a newspaper extract, from a
work on the colony of New South Wales, -written by one who had
been transported to the colony, but for a purely political offence.
Shortly after his landing in Australia, he would appear to have been
assigned to my father, who, quickly discovering his superiority to the
average convict, employed him as an overseer. He thus -writes of
his old master :• — " He, Mr. Cox, was truly a good man • and a

IS
good friend to every honest man he met with.'' Of this man it
may be fairly said that he was unfortunate, having, in a moment of
political excitement, committed himself to an extent that those
charged with the maintainance of peace and order in Ireland, could
not overlook. Of course, it need not be mentioned, that the majority of those
-who Were sent out to the colony at their country's expense were not
political offenders, but criminals convicted of all sorts of offences ;
and many of these had to be treated with a firmness bordering
on severity. But it is surely something worth recording, that so
large a number of the very worst class of convicts that were sent
across the sea, were capable of being reformed into useful and
enterprising settlers. I remember hearing it said of such men,
that, " first, they get on ; then, they get onner (honour) ; and at
last, they get onnest (honest)." It was with my father, as I suppose
it may be said of many another good man, that when he trusted
a man at all, he trusted him outright.
The generation to which those old and faithful servants be
longed, is passed away. Their successors, their sons, men of
education and wealth, are now filling some of the highest offices of
State, proving to the world that they understand and appreciate the
blessings of free institutions.
In the case of New South Wales, the time has long since arrived,
when, in an election to the House of Representatives, a man born in
the old country is very severely handicapped entering into com
petition with one born in the colony. The short period, in the
history of the colony, that it has taken to bring about these
results is very remarkable, and the aptitude displayed by the
present generation for political and parliamentary life, ought to give
soUd satisfaction to those who had a hand in framing colonial consti
tutions. The ambition of the class to which I refer, has always been to
make sacrifices, to give to their children the very best education that
the colony afforded, and, in most cases, their sons and daughters
have shown themselves eager to make the most of their opportunities
and advantages. In the year 1844, or thereabouts, AustraUa was visited by a Mrs.
Chisholm, who, while in England, lectured and wrote much, and
enthusiasticaUy, upon the advantages of immigration to the colony of
New South Wales. She had made several trips to the colony, and

i6
was properly regarded as somewhat of an authority in connection
with such matters. She gave evidence before a committee of the
House of Lords, imparting much valuable information to those
desiring it, upon the social condition of the colony, speaking in high
terms of many of its sons and daughters. Instancing one, in
particular, who was better qualified, she said, than anyone she knew
of, to enlighten the committee upon such subjects, recommending
that he should be invited to attend their next meeting. He came,
and soon satisfied the committee that he well knew what he was
talking about. This man, who was the son of a convict, had received
a first-class education, and, unquestionably had the manners of a
gentleman. The nobis chairman was so pleased with the general
inteUigence and manners of the colonial, that he invited him to his
house, to meet the members of the committee. All but one accepted
the invitation ; he declined, " not caring,'' he said, "to sit down at
the same table with the son of a convict." " He was a gentleman,"
he said, " and had no fancy for the society of those who were not
born of gentlemen.'' "Then,'' said the peer, who had invited him,
" hand back your invitation, and let me assure you, that the person
referred to is, by intellect, education, and manners, more deserving
of the title than the man who has refused to meet him." If the
fathers, when banished from their country, reaUsed " Paradise
Lost," the sons may be said to have inherited " Paradise Regained."
Of my father, and the life that he led in the colony, I have not
much more to write. It wiU happen that I shall further, incidentally,
refer to him in the course of these " recollections." It is a matter of
regret to me, and somewhat against the completeness of the work
that I have undertaken, that I am not writing in Australia, where I
might have had valuable assistance from members of the family.
Of my father's first family, none are li-ving, the last of them
having died, quite ten years ago. Many years before his death, which
happened in 1837, all his sons of that family were settled in the
colonies, and, with no exception, were doing well. One settied in
Tasmania, the rest in New South Wales. They aU entered heartily
into country pursuits, selecting a homestead in the county of
Cumberland, where they lived out their lives, surrounded by their
families. They entered largely into squatting, upon the discovery
and opening up of the interior of the colony.
I refrain from dwelling, at length, upon their lives and doings,

17
only intending to refer further to them where they seem to be con
nected with the rise and progress of Australia, or form a part of the
story of my own life.
But of that first family there was one who gave such abundant
proof that his inner life was pure and peaceful, that I cannot refrain
from lingering in recoUection over him. I allude to George, my
father's third son. He always seemed to me to be the least selfish of
men. As children, we were quite as much at home in his house and
amongst his family, as in our own home ; and when he died, I was
conscious of a loss that the passing of many years has failed to efface
the recoUection of He lived a long and busy life. Seasoned to
out-of-door occupations by early- training and habit, he seemed to
take the greatest possible pleasure in such work. He was not a bad
judge of a horse ; but he was always regarded as an authority in all
questions touching the breeding and management of sheep and
cattle, and one of the few, in those early days, who spared no
expense in forming flocks of the former, and herds of the latter. To
this day, his sons, and others of the name, are well-known all over
the colonies as successful breeders of merino sheep and Hereford
cattle. Devoting a great deal of time and attention to these pursuits,
he 'still found time and means to surround himself -with orchards,
vineyards, shrubberies, and gardens. It might be said of him, with
truth, that if the raising of stock was the business of his life, the
laying out of ornamental grounds, the planting of trees, shrubs, and
flowers, was his recreation. I should not have greatly erred had I
spoken of it as his passion. Visitors were often heard to ask when,
at what period of his life, and where, he had learnt it all, knowing
that he had left England as a boy, before his eyes could have been
trained to take in the beauties of landscape gardening. The right
answer to this would have been that it had not been taught to him,
but that it was simply a natural taste born in him, and matured
under favourable conditions. .
At a time when Church people were not much given to
decorating their churches, he was often to be seen approaching his
parish church laden with flowers and evergreens, arranging them with
a taste that could hardly be improved upon, even in these days,
when such matters have well-nigh reached their utmost development.
And in doing all this, his single and simple idea was to make God's
house look beautiful. c

i8
His home establishment was on a large scale, in-doors, as well
as out-of-doors. He was hospitable to an extent that I have never
known to be surpassed, and the head and centre of as happy a family
party as it has ever been my good fortune to be brought into contact
with. He was what could be consistently caUed a reUgiously-minded
man, worshipping God and loving his fellow men with a devotion
and thoroughness not often seen in these days, when the thing men
seem most afraid of is the being suspected of being very much in
earnest about anything or anybody. He had his reward even in this
-world, as all such men have, for he had friends amongst every class
or section of society. All through his life he was to me as a father,
a brother and a friend.
Like many another good man, he had his prejudices, and the
one^I have often heard him openly acknowledge was a prejudice
against the study and profession of law. Law he abominated and
evef kept clear of; and it must have cost him an efi"ort to love men
engaged in the practice of it. I well remember that on my leaving
school it became a question with my guardians, he being one of
them, what was best to be done with me. Some thought that it
would be well to put me into a la-wyer's office for a term ; but this
law-abominating, simple-minded old brother thought differently,
saying that it seemed to him a strange thing indeed to put me where
I was bound to learn mischief, and all by the way of keeping me out
of mischief He, however, in this important matter, to me, was
overruled, but he besought me, with tears in his eyes, not to take it
up as a profession when I became a man. Let me add here that my
stay in a lawyer's office was very short — long enough to ruin my
hand-writing, but not long enough to enable me to acquire a
knowledge of law, its principles and practice. The legal knowledge
that I carried away with me was never a burden to me.
There was about the house and home of this old brother an air
of abundance and solid comfort, backed up as it always was by a
warm welcome towards all who partook of its hospitalities, that made
visitors feel very much at home in the house and in the midst of the
family at Winbourne, Mulgoa, where this energetic, hospitable, and
home-loving man spent a long, a useful, and a happy hfe. He has
gone the road that we must all travel in our turn, but he has left
behind him in the hearts and minds of his family and friends very
tender memories — impressions never to be wholly obliterated.

19
That those who are destined to read these pages may see that I
have not said over much in speaking enthusiastically of the estima
tion in which this good soul was held by a large number of people,
I insert here a short extract from an obituary notice that appeared in
the Sydney Morning Herald. They write thus of him : — " As a
landlord, a master, a friend, as well as a liberal and warm-hearted
Christian, and one of the best and most single-hearted of men, he
attracted to himself a love and respect (and this from all classes)
which it is the lot of few men to win in so large a measure. One of
the most noticeable features in his character was his considerateness
both for the wants and infirmities of others, especially of his depend
ants, and thus it was, doubtles, that his servants remained with him
so unusually long, some even for forty years. His death was such
as became a Christian. His body was borne to the grave by eight
of his old servants, and was followed by a large number of relatives
and friends." The Australian Churchman, after writing at somewhat greater
length in reference" to him, winds up thus ; — ^" Little children had
always been his delight. Their innocence ever found an echo in his
child-like mind ; so strong was this affinity that they seemed to be
irresistibly drawn towards him." My readers will forgive me for
culling these flowers of friendship, these expressions of tender
memories of one who to all the world seemed so attractive, and so
full of the " charity that never faileth."
I visited Tasmania twice — first in 1847, and again in 1862. It
seemed at that time a dull place to live in, although blessed with a
climate not to be surpassed. The dulness was attributable to the
fact of many of the old settlers, with their families, having left it to
reside in the Old Country. That day seems sooner or later to come
in aU colonies. Already in New Zealand to some extent we are
beginning to faU into this fashion set by the other colonies. Doubt
less an old country affords greater attractions than a colony to rich
people, the business of whose life is recreation. A colony is ad
mittedly a suitable place as a residence for people who have work to
do all the year round, and find little time for recreation. But for one
not engaged in poUtics, not working in a profession, or not personally
superintending his speculations, it affords but few attractions. But
it cannot yet be said that a large number of successful colonists in
New Zealand have turned away from the scene of their labours and

the source of their wealth. I think it may be said rather that the
majority are in a mood to make New Zealand their home, quite
content with their surroundings. That is well, for the sake of their
families, their sons and daughters, who are thoroughly English in
their feelings, habits, pastimes and prejudices, and, I am bold
enough to say, equal — physically, intellectually, and morally — to
those from whom they are sprung. They are blessed with a climate
favourable to the growth and development of athletes, and in season
and out of season I stoutly maintain that out of England there is no
place to be cornpared to New Zealand — a prejudice probably, but
one based upon pretty solid ground. The only cUmate that I know
of to be preferred to it is that of Tasmania, which, in a few words,
is New Zealand without the winds.
In the early days of the colony of New South Wales, the system
of free grants of land was adopted. For many years, during the days
when the colony was thinly populated, such were freely bestowed
upon all who had enterprise enough to saddle themselves with the
burden of possession. But not all men in those days cared to become
landowners. And I have a little story to tell, illustrative of this,
by which it will be seen that an old soldier who, during the first few
years of his miUtary career in Australia, whilst acting as aide-de-camp
to one of the early Governors, could hardly have been regarded as
enterprising. The Governor, on the eve of his departure from the Colony,
said to this young soldier, then in the prime of bachelorhood: " Xow,
my young friend, I am off to-morrow for the Old Country, and there
is not the remotest chance of my ever again breathing an Australian
atmosphere ; but as I am leaving you behind, and the probabihty is
that, like many another of His Majesty's servants, you wiU remain in
the colony and become a settler, I should like, while power is still
vested in me, to do you a good turn. What s.iy you to a free grant
of land ? All that you see around these beautiful bays, forming the
finest harbour in the world, and all in the direction of \VooloomooloQ|
is open for selection— bound, long before you have done with the
world, to become a suburb to a large city, and to grow into great
value. Say the word, and I will issue instructions to have a Crown
grant prepared." The young soldier's reply was : " Thank you very
much, sir, for your good intentions, but as there is not the slightest
prospect of my leaving the service, or of returning to the Colonj

when I once get away from it, and as it would be a little inconvenient
to me at the present moment to pay the first demand on the issue of
a Crown grant, you will forgive me for declining to be transferred into
a land-owner." The man to whom this offer was made, and who could not see
his way to pay down ^^5, or less even, to cOver the fees chargeable
upon the issue of a Crown grant, lived to become a settler (having
left the service), was blessed with the biggest of blessings — viz., a wife
and twelve babies — -but was not blessed with abundant means. He
himself, when an old mah, told me the story, and in telling it,
expressed his wonder that he ever could have been such an idiot as
to turn his back on such an offer.
Free grants of land to those who were ready to take them, were
at that time freely bestowed. I think all settlers in the days of which,
I am now writing expected a grant of land on the occasion of the
birth of a child. I know that many brides were thus (^wered by a
paternal Government.

CHAPTER IV.
A.D. 1821 — My Father's Second Family — My Mother — Life in a Convict Colony —
Large Establishments — Runnaway Convicts — " Sticking Up" — Flute-playing
and Singing — School days.
In the year 182 1, my father married a second time. The issue of
of this second marriage was three sons and one daughter. Of that
family I am the youngest son. Our only sister died in the year 1870.
One of my brothers is living in England, a clergyman of the Church
of England ; the other is in Australia.
My mother arrived in the Colony in 1820, accompanying an
uncle who held a commission in one of the early regiments quartered
in New South Wales. Her mother went out to Australia shortly
after, where she remained to the day of her death.
I have a very distinct recoUection of my grandmother. She was
a remarkable old lady — well read, a good conversationalist — of pro
nounced politics ; and of aU things loving a good earnest discussion
of political questions. She and my father are said to have often
taken opposite sides in such discussions, she proclaiming bravely and
inteUigently "Toryism" pure and simple, and he as persistentiy
representing "RadicaUsm" out and out. But in those days the
creed or programme of Radicalism did not mean what it now means ;
on the other hand Toryism meant very much more than in these
days Conservatives, the lineal descendants of the old Tories, care to
contend for. These friendly but fierce encounters on political
subjects were said to have been quite as fruitful or fruitiess of results
as many are at the present time ; in a word neither convinced the
other. I cannot remember my grandmother seated without a book of
some sort by her side. Books of every kind, upon all sorts of
subjects, sacred and secular seemed to interest her. She was highly
appreciated, by men especially, and was often spoken of by those
qualified to judge, as a thorough Englishwoman, one of the olden
time, in her opinions, partialities, and prejudices ; in a word as a
" bit of old England." '

23
Of my mother, and the estimation in which she was held by us
all, I may not speak here. Those who knew her hardly need remind
ing of what she was. Those who knew- her not may not care to be
told more than that she was a God-fearing, home-loving, and devoted
mother, possessed of strong common sense, and of remarkably active
habits up to within a few months of her death.
In the early days of Colonial life, the wife of a setder, actively
engaged in a variety ,of business, needed many qualifications that
wives in these comfortable times never think of as essential. The
position that a settler's wife was promoted to was one of great re
sponsibility. Within my memory my father's establishment consisted
of from fifty to sixty out-of-door hands, engaged in various industries.
In those days, when the convict system was in full swing, there were
to be found among these men tradesmen and artizans of every kind.
They were assigned to masters willing to employ them, the Colonial
Government being always ready enough to be rid of them. Thus
employment was found for a large number of people. I well re
member some of these establishments, consisting of a flour mill, a
cloth factory, a tannery, a meat-curing house, a blacksmith's forge,
and buildings in which were to be seen every day at work carpenters,
tailors, shoemakers, saddlers, tobacco-curers, and, of necessity,
butchers and bakers. In short, these establishments in old days,
scattered about the country, were in fact and had quite the appearance
of viUages, and, before the wave of a free population rolled in over the
land, were a necessity. Now with this little colony of convicts thus
employed, many of whom were married and had young families, my
mother, in the absence of my father and his sons, had at times a
very great deal to do. There was, of course, always an overseer,
promoted out of the class spoken of, to move about through them
and to inspect the work being carried on. I have known many of
these selected men, who had shown themselves worthy of being placed
in a position of responsibility, during my father's busy life, develop
into men of great wealth. Amongst such men he had the reputation
of being a just man and a good master, and by his assigned servants
generally he was thought well of He took no pleasure in punishing
men, never exercising the powers that the law gave him, except in
cases of continued drunkenness or for gross insubordination. I may tell
a story here, illustrating the estimation in which he was held by some
escaped convicts who had taken to the bush, as it was called, and

24
were supporting themselves by " sticking up " traveUers on the high
road. On this occasion my father was travelling from Windsor to
Penrith, and through a thickly-timbered country, when three or four
men, with crape drawn over their faces and armed with muskets,
stopped him, demanding aU the money that he had about him, and
everything else of value that the carriage contained. Taking his
money and some provisions that he had with him, they asked him
who and what he was and where he was going, and on being told
that he was Mr. Cox, of Clarendon, they at once gave back his
money and returned the provisions, telling him that they knew him
to be a good man, a good master, and a friend to poor men ; that
they made no war against such, but only against men of a hard and
cruel nature, and that if all masters were like him there would be no
bushrangers and no " sticking-up." The sequel to this story being
that my father insisted upon these runaway convicts taking all in the
way of provisions that they could conveniently carry off, and forgot,
somehow, to report them at head quarters. The men of whom I
write, these convicts, were unquestionably a rough lot to handle, and
not easily humanised ; and it is not too much to say that all masters
or superintendents placed in authority over them were not equally
well qualified to play the part of masters over them. In the matter
of management of their assigned servants I have heard also that my
father's first family were nearly as successful as himself My recol
lection of these servants justifies my saying of them that they were
always respectful, never forgetting what was due to their employer,
unless when under the influence of intoxication. That was one of
the sins of the times. A confirmed drunkard was an abomination to
my father ; he ever considering such a man as quite unfitted for pro
motion to a position of trust and responsibility. It wUl thus be seen
that my mother, oftentimes called upon to exercise authority in my
father's absence over a colony of workmen, their wives and families,
was fully engaged in the performance of duties that few women in
these days of higher education and general enlightenment would care
to undertake, or undertaking, would show themselves capable of
performing to the complete satisfaction of their husbands.
When I was quite a small boy I used to fancy that my father
cared for music, for he seemed proud of my flute-playing, but after
his bumping my head against a verandah post for persisting in
whistling after he had repeatedly told me not to make a row, I began

25
to be of opinion that he must indeed have been utterly indifferent to
the higher kinds of music.
Touching my flute-playing, I well remember that when one day
I was practising my very hardest, out of school hours, my master
came up behind me and said, " Ah, boy, if you were only half as
much in earnest over your other lessons as you seem to be over that
flute-playing, we should have little fault to find with you." Fifteen
years after this encouraging speech was made to me, I ventured to
say to my wife, " I think I could sing if I seriously made the
attempt." She remarked, " I think you could, if you had a voice."
I once heard a married brother say, " Depend upon it, there is no
one in this wide world so ready to speak disagreeable (un)truths as
one's wife "
Of my eldest brother I have not much to say in this record of
past tiines. He was, unhappUy, of a somewhat extravagant turn of
mind, soon developing tastes that, over-indulged in, quickly brought
him to grief He took up racing in a small way, and -n'as not long in
making the discovery that no man was qualified to succeed in that
fascinating and hazardous business or pursuit w^ho was not admittedly
twice as rich and ten times as clever as his neighbours.
My other brother, at a suitable age, was sent to England to
complete his education. It -was our father's wish that he should go
to Oxford or Cambridge, and finally adopt the profession of law.
He went through his University course, but could not be induced to
study law. Finally, he entered the Church. He was a sharp, bright
boy, always successful at school, and went up to Cambridge with a
fair share of acquirements, classical and mathematical.
I was the third and youngest of my father's sons. The school
at which my brothers and I were educated was the " King's School,"
Parramatta, in New South Wales. The Bishop of Australia, Bishop
Broughton, was President of the school. It was, from first to last,
head-mastered by clergymen of the Church of En^and, and open to
the children of all colonists. Side by side were to be seen sons of
men who had been convicts, grown no-w into respectable and order-
loving citizens, and sons of settlers. I well remember Bishop
Broughton, who visited and examined the school periodically. We
rather dreaded him as an examiner, knowing him to be a classical
scholar, and generaUy well fitted for the work. He was a consistent
Churchman, somewhat of a statesman, and wise in the ways of the

26
-world. On a platform, speaking on any question, he was accounted
an able speaker. I don't know that in my young days I ever listened
to one who seemed to roll out his sentences with less apparent effort.
In the church, his saying of prayers was impressive, his reading of
the lessons effective, and his preaching up to a standard that, in the
present day even, would be appreciated by an important section of
Churchmen. In appearance he was intellectual-looking, as weU as
venerable. He was the first Bishop that went out to the great
continent of AustraUa ; he did good service in organizing the Church
of England ; and seen surrounded by his brother Bishops, looked a
man amongst men, and was well deserving of the rank, style, and
title of Metropolitan Bishop. He worked as a bishop for upwards of
twenty years, living to the age of seventy-five or thereabouts, and
leaving behind him a reputation for ability, consistency, and personal
piety that I, as one of his flock both in youth and in maturity, ought
not to refrain from pubUshing to the world.
Even so long as forty years ago, the Colony of New South Wales
could muster up a strong body of representative men. The Church
of England, as I have already written down, was -«'eU shepherded by
Bishop Broughton.
The Roman Catholic Church was equaUy weU cared for and
guided by the late Archbishop Folding. He, too, looked like a
bishop, and by his people was always regarded as a man worthy of
the position to which he had been nominated. Very zealous in using
aU legitimate means to promote the cause of his Church and the
interests of her children, he at the same time commanded the respect
of those not included in his flock.
The Presbyterian Church at that time was represented by a
remarkably strong man — the Rev. John Dunmore Lang. He was
perhaps better known during many years of his colonial career, and
more frequently spoken of as a statesman and politician than as a
divine. He was for many years a representative in the New South
Wales Parliament ; from first to last a free lance, and holding his
own amongst a cluster of conspicuous men — such men as Wentworth,
Lowe, Michie, DarvaU, and E. Deas Thomson. He was the author
of a clever and carefully compiled history of New South Wales, and
was a man of whom it might be said with great truthfulness, that
" had he been half as clever he would certainly have been twice as
useful."

27
Amongst the old clergymen that first went out to Sydney to
Christianize and humanize the convict population was the Rev.
Samuel Marsden. He was appointed colonial chaplain, and very
early in his colonial career, he by accident met with two New
Zealanders whom Governor King had succeeded in inducing to go to
Norfolk Island to show the convicts how to dress flax, which is
indigenous there as -well as in New Zealand. The author of " Te
ika a mani ; or. New Zealand and its Inhabitants " (the Rev.
Richard Taylor, M.A., F.G.S., in speaking of Mr. Marsden, dwells
at considerable length on the services rendered to the Maoris by
him. He described him as "a man possessed of a great degree
of firmness and determination, combined with plain good sense
and fervent piety." On his first vis to New Zealand, in 1814,
they anchored at about twenty miles north of the Bay of Islands.
His first sermon preached to the Natives was from the text,
" Behold, I bring you glad tidings of great joy.'' His last visit
to New Zealand was in 1837. He had been seven times across the
sea to preach and to teach, and when he made this last trip he was in
his seventy-second year. His biographer says : " The aged man's
heart was rejoiced. He had seen the beginning ; he now saw it in its
increase, and was enabled to bless God." He lived no great while
after this, dying, indeed, in the same year.
Samuel Marsden was a masterful man, weU known to all early
colonists in New South Wales. I, as a boy, knew him, and have not
yet forgotten his face and features. In the last few years of his life
he was to be seen driving about the country with a well-bred and
well-conditioned horse ; but when I first remember him he was
remarkable for the shabby look of his horse, and the battered con
dition of an old fashioned gig, with a bullet-hole through the back of
it. He took some pride in informing all men as to the cause of that
buUet-hole. In one of his drives through the bush some men rushed
out, shouting to him to stop. " Yes," said he, kying the whip on to
the horse, " I'U stop when I get to the end of my journey. Good-
day, my fine fellows." The scoundrels fired at the old man, but only
succeeded in driving a bullet through the back of the gig. Another
extract from the book already quoted, and I have done. " Chevalier
Captain DiUon, in his interesting narrative respecting the fate of La
Perouse, caUs him (Mr. Marsden) the apostie of the South Seas — and
he was a Roman CathoUc. When his funeral sermon was preached

28
at Parramatta, the Wesleyan superintendent wrote ; ' Next Sunday
morning we intend to close our chapel, and as a mark of respect to
the memory of this venerable man, go to church to hear his funeral
sermon.' Bishop Broughton said of him that, although he was the
first legally-appointed bishop in Australia, he must always consider
Samuel Marsden to have been the first actual one." I was amongst
the many that attended his funeral in 1837, and was present in the
church when his funeral sermon was preached.

CHAPTER V.

Music — William Vincent Wallace.

I HAVE already spoken of my having been taught to play the flute
when I was a youngster. My music-master was Samuel Wallace, an
old bandmaster in the 17th Regiment. He was a charming player,
warbling exquisitely on the flute, and playing upon many other
instruments nearly as well. He was the father of William Vincent
Wallace, the well-known composer, who was a first-class performer on
the violin and pianoforte.
The first concert that I ever attended was one given by Wallace
the son, in 1837 or 1838. He alone performed at this concert, first
on the violin and then on the piano. It is hardly necessary to say
that I had never before heard such music. I sat by the side of my
dear old grandmother, who, always ready to indulge me, had taken
me with her to listen to WaUace's warblings. I was fairly entranced,
confessing that I had at last heard something that I could never
forget, and I then and there resolved that I would try and become a
player myself
This man, William V. AVallace, who had thus tickled my ears
and filled my young soul with indescribable sensations, became, not
many years after this, a very great man indeed in the musical world,
establishing a reputation that has outlived him. All who know his
music, will not be slow to admit that the lovers of melody are under
great obligation to this composer. I have not a word to say here of
the preference shown by many in these days of musical culture and
development to the new school of music becoming fashionable ; but
I am not myself so far gone in this direction as to have outgrown my
love for simple and flowing melody. The best proof of the claims
of WaUace to be regarded as a tuneful composer is that his music
still lives, is as popular as ever, and holds its own in these days with
new works of a host of new writers.
I would like to say a few words as to variety in music. To my
mind, that is one of its chief charms. It is calculated to soothe and

3°
excite. My own experience prompts me to confess that there are
times and seasons when my nerves are thrilled, my heart touched,
and my thoughts are raised by sounds sweet and simple ; and there
are times, also, when my mind or soul, as well as my heart, craves
and longs for something fuller and greater, higher and holier. It
seems to me strange that anyone should have ever thought it a
suitable thing to say that only one class of music should be tolerated
and taught. There is a beauty and perfection in natural music,
as certainly as there is in music the outcome of cultivation. Not all
the world are yet musically educated, and even if they were, there is
still a wonderful variety in the many schools of music. Italy
represents one ; Germany another ; France a third ; and, let us in
all diffidence add, England another. I am not quite sure that in
these days, when there is such a craze for culture, so called, and such
a passion for something new and startling, tha,t music may not suffer
by the many attempts to perfect it. Plain speech, plain -writing,
simple and natural manners are still in high repute in the world ;
why not, then, strive to preserve, in aU its purity, simple and natural
music ? Let us have variety in music, as we have it, unquestionably,
in all other things. Diversity is a law of Nature. It has been
written of the voice, " There are many kinds of voices in the world,
and none of these is without signification." May it not as truly be
said of music, " there are many kinds of music in the world, and
none of these is without power to move us." I should as soon think
of maintaining that one class of music only is worthy of being culti
vated as that aU my friends should be of one age, of one type, or of
one nationaUty. I have had many friends in my time. They have
been of aU ages and various nationalities, and of different idiosyncra-
cies, and I have loved them none the less in discovering them to
have been not cast in the same mould, ^^^ere a man to invite me
into his orchard and to teU me to help myself to one kind of fruit
only, where there was a great abundance and variety, I should not
know what to think of him ; and were he to show me into his garden
blazing with a variety and a profusion of beautiful flowers, and to
tell me to fix my gaze upon one sort exclusively, I should wonder
at his folly. When men are in a mood to make ornamental planta
tions, they keep before themselves the necessity of variety, even
contrast. And when poets rave about loveliness in women, there are
as many to be found praising blue eyes and fair hair as there are

31
those who are ready — on paper — to lay down their lives for a flash
ing eye and a dark skin.
Music in all its varieties is one of heaven's best blessings —
without it this world to some of lis would be a dreary place to linger
in. With music at command, we have always within reach a some
thing to excite or to soothe us. I think and speak of music, of
melody and harmony, as of twin sisters. I am enamoured of both,
but wedded to neither.

CHAPTER VI.
1844 — My First Trip to England — France — Scotland — Switzerland — Up the-
Rhine — Englishmen Abroad.
In the year 1844, when I was a Uttle over eighteen years of age, I
made up my mind, with the consent of my guardians, to visit
England. One's first long sea voyage is full of excitement, but long sea
voyages have been too often written about to be any longer interest
ing. I think the only time in my life that I was in a mood to envy
smokers was at sea. They certainly have one more pleasure than
falls to the lot of non-smokers.
On approaching the shores of England, it can easily be under
stood that I was all expectation to discover how far my relations and
friends in the colony were trustworthy in their description of the
beauties and attractions of the Mother country. On entering the
the river Thames, we soon became lost in a fleet of vessels of every
size and rig, and, proceeding a little further up the river, a new
world indeed seemed to be revealing itself On entering the London
docks, one was bewildered by the multiplicity of vessels and the
multitudes of men to be seen in every direction. Leaving the ship
we plunged into chaos, succeeding finally in getting ourselves com
fortably put up at a good old-fashioned city hotel, where we waited
patiently until our friends, warned of our arrival, came to our rescue.
I had not long to wait. My brother, much grown and otherwise?
altered since he left Australia, soon turned up. He looked me up
and down with a curious expression of face, asked me who my
tailor was, and promised to see to the clothing of my outer man
without loss of time. Having done me this service, on the foUowing
day, he was good enough, when he saw me in well-cut clothes of the
period, to say, " I think now you might, on a dark night, slip through!
a crowd without attracting much attention."
After spending a few weeks in London, I went into the country,
quartering myself upon a Northamptonshire farmer, with the pro
fessed object of gaining some practical knowledge of English agri
culture.

33
One of the sights in the country new to me and interesting was
a hunt. I occasionaUy went to see the hounds throw off. This is a
sport that gives pleasure to a large section of country people. The
day may come when men will have grown too wise, too serious, too
sober, too much in earnest in pursuit of business to take pleasure in
it, but I am inclined to think that that day is far distant.
On my leaving country quarters, I made up my mind to join
my sister and her husband, who had quite recently come over from
Australia, and had gone to stay some months in Paris. I entered
France by way of Havre, thence to Rouen, where I staid a few days,
and on to Paris where I lived two or three months. The first sight
that struck me as noticeable on foreign soil was a fight, in which
three men were engaged. I think I had read of a triangular duel,
but I never expected to witness so close an approximation to it.
There was a deal of talk and gesticulation to begin with ; presently
two men closed, puUing each other's hair, and kicking each other's
shins, and finaUy a third man cut in. No great damage seemed to
result to any one of the combatants ; their clothes, however, suffered
considerably. Brutal as we are beginning to think a stand-up fight
after the. manner of Englishmen, with closed fists, such an exhibition
as I then witnessed seemed to me more objectionable — it was neither
manly nor conclusive, but more after the fashion of infuriated
women. As a set-off to this, one often saw men embracing one
another pubUcly, kissing and submitting to be kissed first on one
cheek and then on the other.
During my stay in Paris I made the acquaintance of some
English famOies. The children chatted fluently in French, German,
and English ; their education in other respects was also being seen to.
One precocious youth in particular arrested my attention. He was
a bright, intelligent boy of about twelve years of age, and with a
turn for study not often seen in one so young. On one occasion,
in a wakeful mood and unable to rest quietly in his bed, he was dis
covered poring over a problem of Euclid, at four o'clock in the
morning. All except his father noticing his passion for study, made
up their minds that the boy was overworking himself, and that
mischief would surely come of it. His father, however, when
spoken to on the subject remarked, " Better a short life and a brU-
liant one than a long life and a dull one." I saw this poor over-

34
worked youth after an interval of ten years, invalided from India,
and utterly broken down in body and mind.
At a late meeting of the Social Science Congress, in England,
specjal attention was caUed to the mischief that comes from over
working the brain of boys. The brain was rightly spoken of as an
organ more delicate than the stomach ; and yet the men who wisely
preach temperance and abstemiousness to boys for their bodily
health's sake, very unwisely urge them to the severest course of study.
It is not difficult to overwork the growing brain — as easy, indeed, as
it is to seriously injure the immature and undeveloped muscles of
the youthful body. We are, somehow, wiser in treating horses. We
handle them when young, and we feel that we have done enough in
gently exercising them. We then turn them out to grass, where,
leading the life that nature intended, they grow, developing into
maturity and beauty.
During my stay in beautiful France I visited the celebrated city
of Versailles. Its gardens and fountains, as well as its art galleries,
could hardly be surpassed. I suppose it would hardly be an exag
geration to say that in these galleries were thousands of pictures.
Although we spent many hours in examining the treasures of art
lining the walls, it would be untrue to say that we carried away with
us anything like a full or accurate impression of their many excel
lencies. I could have lingered longer in this atmosphere of art with
profit and pleasure. Situated in the grounds attached are the Great
and Little Trianon Palaces, or apartments built and set apart for
royalty. These also, although small, were very beautifully decorated
and furnished, and looking quite like apartments intended to be
lived in. Our guide through this labyrinth of loveliness, spoke
emphaticaUy of other things worthy of inspection, notably a library said
to contain 50,000 volumes, but I found no time even to walk
through this. The pictures for the chief part iUustrate French
history, the most interesting of them being those picturing the
career of the great Napoleon. Versailles was the centre of opera
tions of the German army in the great war ending in the defeat of
the French, and the utter annihilation of their ruler Louis Napoleon.
It was here also that the victorious King of Prussia was proclaimed
Emperor of Germany.
Louis PhUlipe in those days ruled or reigned over the French
people, and few at that time anticipated that in three years or four

35
(1848) the King of the French would be hurrying across the English
channel under the assumed name of " Mr. Smith."
My visit to France was too soon brought to a termination.
On returning to England, I lingered awhUe in London — the
modern Babylon, the universal city — and very much enjoyed my life
in that busy, bustUng, babbling Babel. I have heard men who have
lived long in the colonies actively engaged in business or in country
pursuits the while, say of London, that, as a place to live in, there
was no place in the civUized world to be preferred to it. And I
confess that I perfectly understand the preference. It is the seat and
centre of so much that is great and attractive ; of such variety as
well as of perfection in every form, that a man must be strangely
•constituted mentally and morally who cannot discover in that great
world enough to occupy and interest him.
My next excursion was to the manufacturing districts of England.
I visited Birmingham, Manchester, Bristol, and many other places
reno-wned throughout the world for their many industries and manu
factures. I went to these great towns unprovided with letters of
introduction to the owners of the various miUs and factories, but
I experienced no great difficulty in gaining admission to any of them.
I usually ascertained from the landlord of the hotel where I put up
what was best worth seeing in the place. I then went to the factory,
enquired for the master or manager, introduced myself, telling him
that I was a stranger, a traveller, and a Colonial, and that I was very
anxious to see all that was to be seen ; that I was not desiring to
inspect his works with a view of utilising my knowledge at his
expense, but that I was profoundly ignorant of all manufacturing pro
cesses, and had a desire to be enlightened. I thus succeeded in
unlocking the doors of the many factories that were spoken of as
best worth seeing. But I may as well confess at once that machinery
did not interest me very much. I admitted and admired the great
results produced by machinery at work, but the machinery itself,
whether simple or complex, I never could go into ecstacies over.
Manchester and Birmingham, and many other manufacturing
towns, are very wonderful places in their Way, but the hardship of
having to pass one's life in such an atmosphere ! I am writing now of
impressions made upon me thirty-nine years ago ; all this may be
different to-day ; in the interest of humanity I hope it is. The sharp
and pleasurable contrast experienced in shooting out of these smoky

36
holes, these dens of darkness, into the sunshine and beauty of the
uncontaminated country, is a sensation and a delight not easily
described. There are many lands where the sun shines more brightly
and where everything is beautiful to look upon, but after all, England
is in truth the garden of the world, and a well-kept garden too. I
remember that one of my daughters, in writing her first impressions
of England on visiting it, said that it seemed to her that there were
no waste places in it ; that from one end of it to the other it had the
look of being cultivated and cared for. Some one once said in my
hearing that he deemed it a very great privilege to have been born in
such a country, and the greatest possible good luck to be able to live
in it. One may at times feel an inclination to echo this sentiment,
without in the least deserving the imputation of thinking Uttle of the
colony in which one was born, or of the land in which one is destined
to pass the remainder of one's life.
WhUst in London it was a great pleasure to me to occasionally
visit the theatres and the Italian opera. At the former there were
at that time a cluster of accomplished men and women, representa
tive of tragedy, of comedy, and of burlesque ; Kean and Macready,
Charles Matthews, Farren, Buckstone, Keeley, Wigan, Webster,
and many others who, in their respective Unes, could hardly be
surpassed. Madame Vestris, Mrs. Stirling, Mrs. Keeley, and others
always equal to a finished performance of the parts assigned to
them. Again, at the Italian opera were to be heard such singers
as Grisi, Mario, and Lablache — a formidable trio. What made
the deepest impression on me, however, at the Italian opera, was
the performance of the orchestra. That, to my taste, was as
near an approach to perfection in music as anything I could
conceive of I had heard, often heard, previously, what I con
sidered to be good orchestral music, but I never knew until I
heard this orchestra — this cluster of artistes — to what perfection it
was possible to arrive at in orchestral arrangement. It was as the
voice of one instrument, played upon and controlled by one over
powering wiU. I heard also at this time some of the most celebrated
of soloists on the violin and pianoforte — men who were regarded by
the musical world as amongst the first players of the age. Their
execution on their respective instruments was very wonderful, but
often only exhibiting precision and delicate articulation. I had heard
playing almost equal to it even in these respects, and I still think.

37
superior to it in fulness and expression. I once heard, in New South
Wales, a Hungarian, one Miska Hauser, on the violin, and I was so
entranced by his playing that I never afterwards could go into
ecstasies over the playing of any other violinist. The quality of his
tone, the delicacy of his touch, and the volume of sound drawn out
of his instrument of instruments, have always inclined me to speak
of his playing as satisfying and not to be surpassed.
Having time at my disposal, I was not long in making up my
mind to visit Scotland. I can only be said to have run through it,
but in the course of my travels I visited Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aber
deen, Inverness, and many other of the more important towns north,
south, east, and west, going as far morth as Peterhead, one of the
first fishing stations on the east coast of Scotland. Such a swarm of
herring-boats, laden to the gunwale with these highly-prized fish, was
a sight worth going a long way to see. The proper season for taking
them lasts but a short time — I think I was told only a few weeks.
The curing of them is then undertaken, and affords profitable
employment to a large number of people. The herrings taken on
the east coast of Scotland, although superior in size are said to be
not equal in quality to those met with on the west coast. I was
induced to visit this part of Scotland by one whom I had previously
known in Australia. I here for the first time saw my friend
surrounded by his wife and family. These young people were
intelligent, and in most respects, well informed, but they were
unaccountably ignorant of many matters relating to colonial life.
On such matters I had to stand something like a cross-examination.
I remarked to one of these intelligent and interesting young women
that there were some things that Scotland could rightly boast of —
viz., herring and hodge-podge, Scott and Macaulay ; but she was
somewhat shocked at my daring thus to mix up things sacred and
savoury. In returning to England, I passed through Inverness, thence
through the Caledonian Canal down the west coast, visiting Oban,
Staffa, and lona, and finally Ben Lomond, dropping on to a remark
ably fine day for its ascent.
I have already said that my stay in Scodand was short, but it
was quite long enough to enable me to understand and appreciate
the enthusiasm that its sons and daughters exhibit in speaking of
their country. I think it quite all that its many admirers are ready

38
to say of it. Its scenery is remarkable for variety and beauty, and
once looked upon is not easily forgotten. Its people, as aU who have
ever visited the country know fuU weU, are friendly and hospitable.
It is impossible to travel through it without being struck with the high
standard of education of its labouring class.
I have known many Scotchmen in my time, and have had, I
am proud to acknowledge, many friends among them. I have even
had the honour of being more than once mistaken for a Scotchman ;
and had it been my fate to have been born in Scotland, I would have
been very proud, of my country, its history, its institutions, and my
countrymen, and always to be depended upon to proclaim aloud the
glories of my native land. Scotchmen are sometimes twitted with
their clannishness ; but within due limits, clanship is a -virtue. And
as a matter of fact, you don't find that spirit animating them over
much in their every-day life as colonists. A man who is true to his
own flesh and blood naturaUy tiiinks well of his clan, and a man who
is loyal to his clan is not far off being loyal to his country. Born
and educated in a colony made up of Englishmen, Irishmen, and
Scotchmen, I, for very many years of my early life, learned Ughtly to
regard the differences that these nationalities indicate in the Old
World. ' And I have no desire to unlearn that early lesson taught me
by my surroundings. If, living in a colony and in an atmosphere of
freedom, we succeed in solving the problem of how to live and how
to let live, we shall certainly be blessed beyond what our fathers and
forefathers have been, and have good reason indeed to speak proudly
of our lot.
It was in the year 1845 that I first visited Scotiand. I again
visited it in 1856, accompanied by my wife and our two small boys.
Our stay in the land o' cakes was not a long one, but it was full of
interest to my wife as well as to myself She, descended from High
land parents, had as a child lived a short while only in the land of
her fathers, and was well pleased to re-visit it. Her friends received
us hospitably, causing us to regret that we were unable to linger
longer amongst them.
Once when engaged in canvassing a body of "intelligent
electors " (most of whom were Scotch), being a candidate for Parlia
mentary honours, it served me well to tell the tale of my wanderings
through Scotland ; and better, when I sat down to a piano and
strummed out " Auld lang syne ;" but best of aU, when I announced

39
that I had married a Scotch wife. It cost these confiding electors
little to believe all things possible of one who had been thought
•worthy of so distinguished an honour. Scotchmen transplanted into
the colonies neither themselves forget nor suffer their children to
forget the land from which they have sprung. A story is told of a
little girl in a coast steamer who, when there seemed some danger of
the vessel foundering, said to her mother, " Well, mother dear, if we
do go to the bottom it is a comfort to know that it will be in a bit of
Scotland." The name of the vessel was The Thistle.
My trip to Scotland ended, I made my way across the Channel,
bound for Switzerland, by way of the Rhine. On this trip I also set
out unaccompanied by either friend or acquaintance, and I still think
that in so doing I acted wisely. It is by no means difficult to pick
up with a travelling companion, and it is the easiest thing in the
world when you tire of him, or he tires of you, to go different ways,
looking upon each other no more. All this is so weU understood by
men running about the continent of Europe, and so often happens,
that no one feels the slightest akwardness in telling his companion of
a day or a week that he intends altering his course. It has often
struck me that EngUshmen appear to great advantage when traveUing
on the Continent. They are at such times more accessible to their
countrymen ; they address one another without waiting for an
introduction ; often travel together without knowing each other's
names ; and until they re-cross the Channel, are mutually agreeable
and rational. But once again on English soil, they become petrified
into propriety, look with a stony gaze upon their chance continental
companion, and never betray themselves by the slightest indication of
a recognition. I suppose, as everything that is, is right, this is as it
should be ; it certainly is very convenient, and is recognised as " good
form " by society ; and woe to the colonial who transgresses the law
or dares to question its propriety. Illustrative of this insular peculi
arity, or EngUsh prejudice against speaking to a ntan until you know
who and what he is, I remember being told by an old naval officer
who had lived out of England and in a colony for quite thirty years,
and then had re-visited the land of his fathers, that he had On
occasions been very much put out by what he spoke of as this stand-
offishness of his countrymen. He told not a bad story of a man
who, after carrying on a conversation with him for an hour or more
on board a Thames steamer, at last turned to him and said, " Excuse

4°
me, sir, but am I mistaken in supposing that you have visited the
colonies? I would not ask, only it is so unusual to meet with
an Englishman willing to enter into conversation with a stranger, that
I felt almost certain that you must have passed some time in a colony
to have apparently outgrown the disinclination that most Englishmen
show to converse with a man not formally introduced to him."
The same old gendeman had another story to tell. Finding himself
shut up in a railway carriage with only one fellow-passenger, he at
once addressed him, and in the foUowing terms : " I should like, sir,
an understanding with you before we start. Is it your wish to enter
into conversation with me, a stranger, or is it not? I am, Uke
yourself, an Englishman, but I have lived out of the old country for
thirty years, and am not quite at home in matters of etiquette. If
3fOU prefer to stand upon ceremony and to keep your mouth shut, say
the word. If, on the other hand, you prefer to enter into conversa
tion, say so. I am ady for either alternative, and quite willing to
do as you wish." The man thus addressed laughed heartily, and
very willingly humoured his feUow-traveller by carrying on a conver
sation with him to the end of their journey.
In Switzerland I was once mistaken for an American through
my colonial habit of asking questions and drifting into conversation
with a man before we had been many minutes together. We were
staying at the time at one of the grand hotels to be encountered all
over the continent. The accommodation at these hotels seemed to
me to be first-class, leaving nothing to be desired. One not satisfied
with it would be somewhat difficult to please, and would do wisely to
stay at home. Such a man, however, I one day encountered, who
seemed not quite so ready to admit that the accommodation was all
that it might have been. He said, " Well, I am not going to say
that what is to be had abroad is not good, as far as it goes, but after
all, what does it amount to ? It is just the case of AustraUa over
again, described by a friend of mine as a great place, undoubtedly,
where you can get everything for nothing, but nothing for anything."
As a fitting addition to what I have written down as to the stand-
offishness of Englishmen abroad, I ought not to omit mentioning
that a man whose name even I did not know, and who certainly did
not know mine, very readily offered me his purse to enable me to
extend my journey. 1 had given him the information that I had
nearly got to the end of the sum that, before leaving England, I had

41
made up my mind to spend. I at the time refused his purse, but a
fortnight afterwards, I met the same man again, and accepted of him
a small loan. In traveUing abroad, money slips through one's fingers
with marvellous facility and rapidity. There is always so much to
see, which seeing costs money : and so many rare and pretty things
that seem suitable as souvenirs of the land through which one is
pleasuring to buy, that it is hard to calculate in anticipation as to the
exact sum needed. Finally, when I stepped on board the steamer at
Ostend I had to confess to the skipper that I had not money enough
left to pay my passage, but that I meant to go with him notwith
standing. He laughed, and told me that he was quite accustomed to
the trifle of a man having spent all his money in tra-v;eUing, and
seemed quite content to wait until we reached England for my
passage-money. I remember, in those days, seeing in Punch a cartoon setting
forth the utter -wretchedness and despair of an Oxford undergraduate
who had just witnessed the drow^ning of a University man, a stranger
to him. He was standing on the bank of the river, wringing his
hands and exclaiming, " Oh, if I had only been introduced to him
I might have saved his life."
My continental trip at an end, I began to think seriously of my
return to the colony, but I had not yet done all in the way of
travelling that I had proposed to myself I had not yet visited
Ireland.

CHAPTER VII.
Ireland in 1846 — The Potato Disease — Dublin — Belfast — Galway— Limerick—
Killarney— Cork— Back to Dublin— Daniel O'Connell.
It wUl not be forgotten by middle-aged men that in the year 1846
Ireland was smitten by a scourge that deprived a large number of
her peasantry of the means of subsistence, and was ruinous to many
of the proprietors of the soil. The reports in the newspapers of the
day as to the extent of the blight and the destitution and wretched
ness of the people, caused thoughtful men to reflect, and to ask
themselves whether there was not something radically wrong in the
system of government, or in the relation of landlord and tenant, that
might not be remedied by legislation. With a view of gathering-^
reliable information, the leading London newspapers sent over to
Ireland some of their chosen staff — men of varied experience and of
literary reputation — to report fully and faithfully upon what they saw
and heard of the actual state of the country. The publication in
England of the result of their inquiries caused a sensation.
Prompted by a desire to see and judge for himself how far these
thriUing narratives of destitution and misery were well or ill founded,
I made up my mind to visit the country. I had no friends, no
acquaintances, living there, but I had had in my time friends haiUng
from Ireland, and I felt an interest in its people that I have not yet
outgrown. ' Embarking at Holyhead, after a somewhat boisterous
passage, I found myself ne.xt morning at Kingstown. During the
passage over, I many times wished myself anywhere but in the Irish
Channel. I think my fellow-passengers suffered as much as myself
I don't think that I have an unbounded admiration for a man who is
superior to sea-sickness. I once knew a man who had the reputation
of being a great " screw," and on one occasion I heard him boasting
that he was blissfully ignorant of the sensation of sea-sickness, where
upon a man at his elbow said to him, " I am not in the least surprised,
sir, to hear you say as much of yourself; but I should indeed have
been very much surprised had you asserted that you had, under any
circumstances, been seen to disgorge anything."
Arriving at the railway-station in Dublin, I was literally takea

43
possession of by a smart car-driver, who, seeing that I had no friends^
seized hold of my luggage and whisked me off to a first-class hotel.
On the following morning I turned out on a tour of inspection, and
was sufficiently pleased with what I saw. The houses generally
struck me as more remarkable for uniformity than for architectural
beauty, but some of the public buUdings — notably Trinity College,
the Bank of Ireland, the Custom House, and the Law Courts — were
strikingly fine, and would have graced any capital in Europe.
Phoenix Park, about two miles from the heart of the city, is of large
area, and well laid out. To visit this I engaged a car, and in my
drive I had some interesting conversation with the carman upon the
then great question of Repeal, and upon the, to me, greater question
of emigration to the colonies. I recommended emigration on a large
scale as a necessity in the then state of the country, but I hardly
succeeded in satisfying my friend the car-driver that there was an
El Dorado out of Ireland. At this crisis in the history of Ireland
very few could be induced to accept free passages to the Cape of
Good Hope, although in many districts in the west and in the south
a state approaching famine was fast becoming general. The carman
confessed to being a Repealer, but he said he had no great faith in
living long enough to see its accomplishment. He seemed to think
that -with the disappearance of Daniel O'Connell from the stage, the
organisation would fizzle out ; that no one else had yet appeared
above the political horizon of sufficient ability and character to carry
it to a successful issue.
I attended di-vine service at St. Patrick's Cathedral. Compared
with some of the finest English cathedrals, it seemed small. The
Archbishop of Dublin, Whately, took part in the service ; his reading:
was very striking. The only man, as a reader, who, in my judgment,
was to be preferred to him, was the Rev. Hugh M'Neile, at that time
thought highly of and much run after in Liverpool. I once heard
him read prayers and preach in his own church. His preaching
was good, although, after the fashion of the day, of pronounced
controversial character. But his reading struck' me as the most
perfect performance that I ever listened to. Hugh M'Neill was a
man of a dignified presence, and was possessed of a voice that was-
as remarkable for purity as for power. I saw him once more only,
after an interval of ten years. He was then becoming an old man,
but his mind seemed in no respect to have failed him. I never heard

44
him speak on a political or any other public question, but I once
heard a political opponent say of him that he considered him equal
as a speaker to any man at that time in England. He was the head
and champion of Orangeism for very many years.
After a few days spent in Dublin, I left by an early train for the
north. I think Drogheda at that time was the terminus of the
completed line of railway. The remainder of the journey was
performed by coach. The coaches were splendidly horsed, and
driven after a fashion that left nothing to be desired.
The appearance by night of Belfast, the great northern capital
of Ireland, gave one a proper notion of the extent and importancej
of the place. The long unbroken line of well-built houses, and the
many cotton and linen factories blazing with light, proved beyond
question that there was a vitality, a bustle, and business in the north
of Ireland at any rate that bad times had not succeeded in anni
hilating. Within easy reach of Belfast was to be seen at this time
the Great Britain steamship, grounded in Dundrum Bay. She was
shortly afterwards floated off, over-hauled, re-fitted, and employed in
the colonial passenger trade, and was for many seasons the favourite ;
ship carrying passengers between England and Sydney.
Leaving Belfast, I went by ra!ilway to Portadown, thence by car
to Armagh, and on to Monaghan. The country between and in the
neighbourhood of these towns is a block of moderately high hills,
reminding one not a little of parts of Devonshire, although of some
what less elevation. On arriving at the station at Portadown, I was
stuck up by a dozen at least of car-drivers, each endeavouring to
possess himself of my portmanteau and wraps, and shouting out
vigorously their respective fares, by way of inducing me to step on to
one or other of the many cars in attendance. Fixing upon a driver
whose horse seemed up to the work, I took my seat, and after a drive
of an hour-and-a-half, I was landed at Armagh.
From the town of Belfast up to this point in my travels, I saw
much to justify the statement that this part of Ireland was stiU in a
thriving condition. The cultivation of oats seemed general, and the i
supply of pigs from the counties of Armagh and Monaghan, through^
which I was now passing, seemed to me unlimited. It was no longea
a mystery to me where the pig meat, so celebrated aU over the world,
came from. But the further west that we travelled, the more striking
seemed the change from plenty to poverty.

45
It was sad, very sad, to have to look upon such an intensity of
wretchedness. Having lived in a colony where the necessaries of life
at least were within easy reach of all, it was painfully new to me to
have to look upon men and women able and ready to work, unable
to get work, and many of them perishing with hunger. Over and
over again this is -what happened : — On the arrival of coach or car at
its destination, a dozen or more of women, mostly young, with
children strapped on their backs, would gather round the vehicle,
imploring passengers, for the love of God, to stretch forth a hand to
help and save them. Thus appealed to, it was difficult to turn away
from them without making some effort to relieve them. But after all,
such small contributions as fell from the hands of stray travellers,
were indeed but as a drop in the bucket in relation to the actual
necessities of these starving people, and one felt at such times that,
unable to relieve to an appreciable extent the destitution of the
multitude swarming round one, it would perhaps have been better not
to have put one's self in the way of such a sight.
Passing through the towns of Clones and Inniskillen, I reached
Ballyshannon, lying at the head of Donegal Bay. The car-driver,
who was more than ready to enter into conversation, entertained as
well as enlightened me by his ceaseless talk. In speaking of the part
of the country through which we were driving, of Repealers and of
Orangemen, and of what he chose to call the interminable feud that
raged between them, my friend rather startled me by declaring that
he had but to shout in some particular manner, and that in less than
no time, as he pithily expressed it, he could bring around him
Repealers or Orangemen, who would not fail to carry out his orders,
whatever they might involve. "Yes," said he, "there are now
within ear-shot on the side of that hill yonder, men who would think
nothing of knocking you on the head and bundling horse, car, and
its contents into the lake." This interesting and very communicative
car-driver caUed himself an Orangeman, but he seemed to me quite
prepared to join either side in a scrimmage so soon as he clearly saw
which side was going to win. He added that, although an Orange
man, he had never been formally admitted into the body — initiated,
he called it^declaring that something in the nature of a ceremony
not unlike that of the instaUation of a Mason was regarded as
.necessary. The scenery along the banks of Lough Erne struck me as very

46
beautiful, although the weather was somewhat against a thorough ;
enjoyment of it. And all was to me so new, that I could hardly
regret having carried out my intention of visiting the west of Ireland,
and of seeing for myself how far the graphic accounts of the Times
correspondent were borne out by facts. There are parts of Ireland
in the west and in the south lovely to look upon ; as beautiful,
indeed, as the most picturesque spots of tourist-haunted continental
lands, that year by year a large number of idlers and health-seeking
invalids make it their business to visit.
Twenty-eight years, nearly, have elapsed since I visited Ireland,
and made these notes which are now developing into a narrative of
my tour, and, unhappily, it cannot yet be said that the condition of
the country is altered for the better. Darker days than any up to
that time experienced have visited the land, and we still go on hoping
arid praying that a better state of things may come about. So many
causes may have contributed to bring about the present unhappy
condition of the apparently doomed country, that I think it wise to
refrain from pointing to any one great cause ; and wiser still, not to
talk dogmatically as to remedial measures. We can, and may, how
ever, unite in a prayer that the day may come when even the recol
lection of all the wretched historical past of this beautiful land will
be buried, and that peace, plenty, and prosperity may again be the
lot of aU its children.
During my travels in the west I had opportunities of travelling
in Bianconi's cars. I am not aware whether these cars are. still an
institution in Ireland ; I found them very comfortable, and could not
help -wondering why they -were not more generally adopted as a
means of conveyance throughout the country. The enterprising '
proprietor, Bianconi, an Italian, occupied in the w-est and south of
Ireland at that time the position that the well-known firm of Cobb
and Co. filled for so many years in the colonies before railways were
constructed. I have spoken of the destitution, the utter wretchedness, of the
labouring class in Ireland at that time. That was too true ; and yet,
perishing as many were, there was a life and spirit, a bouyancy, left in
the survivors— men, women and children, which no other people
would have exhibited. I think it was here that one of Erin's blue-
eyed daughters fairly floored me by a remark that she made to her
companion, who was very persistent in imploring me to relieve her

47
in her extremity. On either side of the hotel entrance-door was
squatted a young mother with an infant in her arms. In an instant,
on my showing myself. No. i was on her legs, imploring me to look
with pity upon poor creatures less fortunate than myself ; but No. 2
rebuked her for her bad manners, saying, " Don't be after bothering
his honor ; don't you see, woman, he's got it written all over his face,
he'll give it us afore he goes." In asking my wife, nearly thirty-eight
years after this pretty speech was made me, whether I could with
propriety write it down in these " Recollections," she smiled, and
said, " I think you had better, as it would seem to have been the first
tinae in your life that such a speech had been made to you, and most
likely it wiU be the last."
Leaving Longford, I pushed on to Athlone, and thence to
BaUinasloe. For many mUes after leaving Longford, a peat-bog
stretches across the country, and presents as undesirable a feature in
the scenery of the district as can well be imagined. During our
drive to-day, we came up with large parties of men working on the
roads, employed by the Board of Works at ten-pence a day.
Reaching BaUinasloe, we halted for the night, and on the follow
ing morning, making a seasonable start, we soon lost sight of
BaUinasloe. Our course then lay through a country yielding a
moderate crop of grass, and a more than moderate supply of stones.
Judging, however, by the condition of the stock on all sides, the
pasturage on this line of country must have been nutritious. But
such an extent of country laid down to grass could hardly support
such a population as that part of Ireland then contained.
I was somewhat disappointed in the town of Galway. But ust
read what the writer of " Ireland : its Scenery and Antiquities," says
of Galway. He speaks of it as "the city of red petticoats," and it
is further said that the " universality of the same brilliant colour in
most other articles of female dress, gives a foreign aspect to the
population, which prepares you somewhat for the cAnpletely Italian
or Spanish look of most of the streets of the town."
Hurrying away from " the city of red petticoats," I took car to
Limerick. " The banks of the Shannon, in the neighbourhood and
above the town of Limerick, are not the least beautiful bit of scenery
in beautiful Ireland." Limerick is a town of some importance. It
has the unmistakeable look of a busy, thriving, manufacturing town ;
is weU kept and cared for ; and is a credit to the district of which it

48
forms the centre. In one respect the Shannon is spoken of as un-
equaUed : from the sea to its head, a course of 200 miles, it is
navigable throughout. In its flow it waters no fewer than ten
counties. From Limerick I took car to Killarney by way of Newcastle.
The road over which we traveUed to-day ran through an exceedingly
rich line of country — as fair and as fat a land as I had up to this
time looked upon in Ireland. This estimate of the country appUes
to the whole distance of our drive, up to within twenty miles or so of
Killarney; the latter part is poor indeed, consisting mainly of
unreclaimed peat-bog, which in those days (thirty-seven years ago)>
few men in Ireland seemed to have had enterprise or capital enough
to undertake the reclamation of In its then state it was wholly
unproductive, and spoken of by most men as absolutely unre-
claimable. At Newcastle we encountered a formidable gathering of upwards
of 500 men — ready, they said, to work, but apparently determined to
insist upon conditions that the Board of Works seemed unable or
unwiUing to accept. From what we could make out, their grievance
seemed to be that their work had to be inspected and approved by
an agent of the Government, and their fear was that after having
toiled all day, they might be told at night that their work was not
done to the satisfaction of the inspector and not worth paying for.
Although these peat-bogs of Ireland in their natural state have
an ugly look, and are unprofitable to the agriculturist, they are not
without their advantages to the poor peasantry, who derive from
them all their fuel. Great quantities of this peat or turf are besides
transported from the bog of Allen to Dublin by means of long
flat-bottomed boats, which ply on the canal. The phenomenon of a
moving bog has frequently been seen in Ireland. Large portions of
the surface, sliding or flowing from their original position, cover the
adjacent country, and in many cases cause a great deal of damage by
destroying arable land and overwhelming houses, corn, and haystacks.
Killarney is spoken of as the "Mecca of every pilgrim in search
of the sublime and the beautiful in nature — the mountain paradise of
the west." On reaching the lake, I lost no time in preparing for an
excursion to the mountains. The contemplated trip involved some
walking as well as boating. Provided with supplies of sandwiches
and porter, we set out. When I asked my pleasant-faced guide how

49
it had happened that I was suspected of being a porter-loving man, I
was told that quite recently he had made the mistake of going into
the mountains unprovided with drink, and that the tourist who had
suffered by the omission had sworn at them for being such fools as to
suppose that a man could walk or work all day without needing a
stimulant to brace him up. • Our boat's crew, however, had a very
different tale to teU. They one and all boasted that they were
followers of Father Matthew, and assured me that they were equal to
a long day's work, never touching and never requiring stimulants of
any kind. They certainly looked in perfect health and condition,
jnd I am bound to admit they proved themselves first-class men in a
boat. These total abstainers did the cause — total abstinenance — and
its worthy promoter great credit. One of these robust rowers on
the -waters of Killarney further assured me that since he had wholly
abstained from the use of stimulants he had gained considerably in
weight and had lost somewhat in bulk.
Some years after the time of which I am writing, I was told an
amusing anecdote touching total abstinence, in which the great and
good Bishop Selwyn figured as a principal. He had given a picnic
to a large number of his flock, inviting the Governor of the colony
and his friends. The Governor's Aide-de-Camp, knowing the Bishop
to be a total abstainer, and suspecting that in the list of good things pro
vided, wine would be wanting, smuggled into the hamper a couple of
bottles of sherry. On unpacking the hamper, the black bottles
caught the eye of the Bishop, who affecting great surprise at the
discovery, said "Well, it is not much amongst so many, but one
thing is quite clear, this is just one of those occasions where we
ought aU to share alike," emptying one of the bottles into one bucket
of water, and the other into a second.
Ross Island is usually the first place visited by strangers in
search of the picturesque. The castle, whose history is a Uttle too
long to be narrated here, stands on the largest isdand in the lower
lake. The combination of island, mountain, and water is not
inaptly spoken of as almost incomparable. Muckross Abbey is also
one of the sights not to be overlooked. The view from the far-famed
gap or pass of Dunloe was magnificent, and the autumnal tinge and
variety of the foliage fringing the rocky slopes and descending far
into the valleys, gave to aU a singular beauty, making up a picture
unUke, if not surpassing, anything that I had seen in England, E

so
Scotland, or on the continent of Europe. Passing through this rocky
glen, your eye looks down on the upper lake, studded with islands
of all shapes and sizes, and bounded by mountains rising almost
perpendicularly from its margin.
Taking again to the boat, we shot through a narrow passage
from the upper to the lower lake. Many accidents are said to have
occurred in shooting this rapid. The character of the scenery
of the lower lake is totally distinct from that of the middle or
upper lakes. The lower lake is distinguished for its elegance and
beauty, being studded with rocks and wooded islands covered with a
variety of evergreens, while the upper, as I have already written, is
remarkable for its wild sublimity and grandeur; the middle lake in a
great degree combining the characteristics of the other two. There
are lakes in Switzerland which, perhaps, for single views, excel either
of the lakes of Killarney, but taking into account the pecuUar atmos
phere, the variety and grouping of the mountains, and the interest of
the ruins on its shores, Killarney has no rival.
Muckross Abbey may well be spoken of as one of the most
interesting monastic remains to be met vrith in Ireland. " Embosomed
in the shade of lofty and venerable ash, oak, yew, elm, and sycamore
trees, festooned with ivy of the darkest and most luxuriant foUage, it
is more beautiful in its loneliness and decay than it could have been
in its pristine state of neatness and perfection." I saw here on the
banks of the lake, within stone's throw of the hotel where I stayed,
the finest specimen of a red deer that I ever saw ; but he was in no
mood to be gazed at, and with a bound to show that he felt free to
roam whither it pleased him, he was soon lost to view. I saw here,
also, growing in their native habitat, many and beautiful specimens of
the arbutus, loaded with berries which although looking marveUously
like strawberries could hardly be said to resemble them in flavour.
Leaving KUlarney, I travelled by coach to the city of Cork,
passing almost within sight of Blarney. Blarney village lies withm a
few miles of Cork. The principal object of curiosity that it can boast
is its old castle ; in this castie there is a chamber called the " Earl's
chamber." When Sir Walter Scott visited Blarney, in 1808, he
entered this chamber and afterwards was present at the ceremonial of
"kissing the blarney-stone." A curious tradition atti-ibuted to it the
power of endowing all who kiss it with the sweet, persuasive,;
wheedling eloquence said to be so perceptible in the language of the

51
Cork people, and generally termed " blarney." A Blarney laureate
thus describes its virtue :
" There is a stone here, whoever kisses,
Oh ! he never misses to grow eloquent ;
'Tis he may clamber to a lady's chamber,
Or become a member of Parliament."
What I was about in those past days, when I was young and impres
sionable, to have refused to go five miles out of my way to kiss the
" blarney stone," I shall never be able to explain ; and what I have
lost in not taking advantage of the opportunity of bringing myself
within the influence of its mysterious power to put the finishing touch
to my education, I can only speculate upon.
For some mUes after leaving KiUarney, our road lay through a
country consisting very much of peat-bog, the reclamation of which
had not at that time been systematically or extensively undertaken.
As we proceeded we heard much of the unsettled state of the
country. We were told that in the south, as well as in parts of the
west, through which I had so lately travelled, a sufficiency of food —
consisting of the mere necessaries of life — was not to be had for love or
money, and it was feared that the people would perish by hundreds.
Hearing this, one ceased to be very much surprised at their defiant
attitude. It is a little unfair to blame people threatened with famine
and starvation, when they rise up in their extremity and angrily
demand bread for themselves, their wives and their families.
Leaving the county of Kerry, you enter that of Cork, and
henceforth lose sight of bog-land, although, at the time of which I am
writing, it was difficult to discover any marked signs of improvement
in the physical condition of the people. That part of the county of
Cork through which I was passing struck me as being equal in point
of fertility to any of England's richest counties, and wUl, no doubt,
under suitable treatment, yield its maximum of produce. The back
ward state of agriculture in Ireland at that time was admitted and
deplored by aU intelligent and experienced Irishmen, and accounted
for by their saying that they had not the capital required to make the
most of their lands.
I had heard much of the beautiful harbour of Cork, and was
anxious tp have a look at it, as it is generally spoken of as being not
far off the best harbour in the world. Viewed from the rising ground

52
immediately fronting the entrance, it appears commodious and secure,
and in time of war would afford perfect shelter to any number of
vessels. The entrance is strikingly narrow, and the large number of
islands affording shelter to vessels lying inside, justifies all that has
ever been said of its completeness and superiority to any other in
that part of the world. I would at the same time like to guard
myself against saying that it has not its equal throughout the known
world ; that would be at once to pronounce its superiority to Port
Jackson (Sydney), an opinion hardly to be justified, and certainly not
safe to be openly expressed in the presence of patriotic Australians.
I have heard men, both in and out of Ireland, grumble about
its climate, speaking of it as the wettest of wet places. The moist-
ness of the Irish climate is undoubtedly a fact, and is one of the
peculiarities by which it is distinguished from that of our own adopted
land. This condition of the atmosphere affects the colour of the
grass, the scenery, and the complexion of its daughters. Since
Ireland is known and spoken of all over the world as the " Emerald
Isle," no words are needed to prove the first part of the statement.
When poets write of it, they speak of its scenery as " presenting a
clearness, a brilliancy, a dewy serenity, and a vivid freshness essen
tially its own.'' And when a matter-of-fact man, advanced in years,
sits down to write of its women, all that he is in a mood to say of
them is that they are as beautiful as they are brilliant. Away, then,
with the notion that the climate of Ireland can be improved upon.
A land in which the grass grows all the year round and is always green;
where the landscape is ever varying, with lovely contrasts of light and
shade ; where the men are brave and the women beautiful, is to my
mind about as near an approximation to perfection in nature as this
world is ever likely to furnish.
Leaving the city of Cork, we reached Fermoy, where we were
met by the oft-repeated tale of disturbance. The road from Cork to
Fermoy passes through country exceedingly fertile, and in parts very
picturesque-looking. From Fermoy to ClonmeU, the country on
either side of the road is, with little variation, first-class land and
largely cultivated. After travelling over such an extensive area of
grazing country in the west and in the south, it was a pleasant change
to find myself again in sight of stacks of grain standing in the yards
of the numerous smaU farms. In remarking upon this to a feUow-
traveller, and in expressing my satisfaction at such evidences of

53
fertility and prosperity, hoping that the day might soon come when
what was exceptional would become general, he replied that the one
want of the country was capital, and that without a liberal introduc
tion of English capital into the land there was no certainty — no hope,
even — of Ireland ever developing into a rich and prosperous country.
This, with increased railway accommodation, he regarded as a sine
qtia non — a necessary first step in the resurrection of Ireland.
I next visited Thurles. Tipperary county at this time, rightly or
wrongly, had the reputation of being one of the most disturbed
districts in the south of Ireland. In the quality of its soil, it is all
that travellers, newspaper men, and guide-books agree in representing
it to be. Its remarkable fertility, however, does not seem to have
raised the condition of the peasantry. At the' hotel where I put up,
I met with a young Irishman who proved an intelligent, agreeable,
and communicative companion. He told some interesting anecdotes
of the people and their ways, narrating his own experiences and
adventures, some of which were not a little remarkable. He had
travelled in other lands, and belonged to the class of Irishmen
branded and denounced by Daniel O'Connell as absentees and the
bane of Ireland. In speaking of " Young Ireland," he expressed his
sympathy with them, and stated his conviction that the majority of
the landlords were of the same mind as himself upon the matters in
dispute between them and O'Connell.
On the following day I found myself in Dublin. I had thus
completed the circuit of Ireland, but I had not yet seen its moving
spirit. To see and to hear Danifel O'Connell was one of the objects
that I confessed to on leaving England. I had now the oppor
tunity, and I was determined to take advantage of it. To have
left Ireland without seeing and hearing the man above all others so
notorious, so historically interesting, and so successful in fascinating
the minds of the masses, would have been an error of the first
magnitude. Presenting myself at the door of " Conciliation Hall," I paid my
shilling and took my seat amongst hundreds of the great man's wor
shippers. It is as weU to mention that the great question dividing
the patriots at this time (1846) was that of "physical force" as
opposed to " moral influence." O'Connell, the originator and
eloquent exponent of the principles of " Repeal," proclaimed and
maintained that physical force to bring about even a repeal of the

54
union with England was, under no circumstances that could be
foreseen, to be resorted to. Smith O'Brien, representing and ex
pressing the principles and programme of "Young Ireland," held the
opposite view — viz.,that physical force in the then crisis was a neces
sity; and that to talk of moral influence at such a time was neither
more nor less than moonshine. Punctual to the time appointed, the
great man entered, bowed, and set to work to prepare himself for the
ceremony that was to foUow, walking well forward on the platform that
aU eyes might be gladdened by a sight of him. By those who came
to worship, he was rapturously received. Before commencing with
the business of the meeting, the great " Liberator " (one of his pet
names given by his admirers) opened a smaU box and drew therefrom
a green silk velvet cap, artistically embroidered with gold thread ; with
something like ceremony he placed this on his head. His friends, his
faithful admirers, had the look of men ready to yield obedience to his
expressed wishes, to whatever issues they might tend. I had heard
of O'Connell, both in the colony and in the old country, as one of
the most eloquent of an eloquent race, and always spoken of as one of
the most patriotic of Irishmen. I had read his speeches delivered on
a variety of occasions when he was said to be at his best ; speeches
delivered in and out of Parliament ; and I felt it somewhat of a
privUege now to have an opportunity of hearing him. I came, I saw,
but I had to go away confessing my disappointment. It was difficult
to realize that the feeble old man before me was the same man who,
only a few years before, swayed by a spirit of patriotism, had filled
the minds, dazzled the imagination, and touched the hearts of so
many of his countrymen. The Uttle fire that animated him in his
address that day was directed against the men who had dared to call
in question the wisdom of his policy, and had presumed to branch
off into an independent faction. He made many and touching appeals
to the feelings and prejudices of his hearers, asking -with trembling
voice, who, in days gone by, had made greater sacrifices of health
and happiness than himself to secure the privileges and prosperity of
the people, the independence, the honour, and the glory of Ireland ?
and whether now, in his old age, in the maturity of his wisdom, he
had not still the best right to be regarded as the leader of the people
and the saviour of his country ? This was the foundation and sub
stance, the Alpha and Omega, of the speech of Daniel O'Connell on
the only occasion that I had the opportunity of Ustening to him.

55
His faithful friend and lieutenant, Tom Steele, followed his leader,
varying the proceedings slightly by letting out freely in speaking of
what he caUed England's political wickedness, not sparing her king,
George the Fourth, branding and denouncing him as a " royal
reptile." It is always a sorrowful sight to have to look upon a man once
so strong, shrunk into a shadow of his former self — a charred trunk
in which the fire has gone out. His life, like that of many another
patriotic heart, may be said to have been a failure, in that he failed to
accomplish the passion of his life — the repeal of the Union — the
political union of Great Britain and Ireland. But this great stake was
not to be won by Daniel O'Connell. Obviously his day had gone by*
his body was feeble with old age, and his soul had grown sick with
disappointment. It could be seen at a glance that if Ireland was to
conquer her independence, it would be through the beating of hearts
younger than his, and by the blows of arms stronger to strike. But
it takes a succession of men — certainly more than one man — or one
generation, even, to bring about, to precipitate into symmetrical form,
all that patriotism dreams of The masses, made up of somewhat
different material, practical men as they are called, are slow and short
in their political stride, hesitate to act, and perhaps not unwisely agree
to accept of a, modicum, a percentage, of what enthusiasts sigh after
and revolutionists strike for. Let some Englishmen say what they
please of Daniel O'Cohnell, of his days and his doings ; no one
looking dispassionately at his career, and wisely and judicially weigh
ing his surroundings, remembering what he was in his best and
brightest days, will care to say less of him than that he was a great
man, a patriot, and a statesman, trusted and worshipped by a
multitude of men, and well beloved by relatives and friends.
FareweU to Ireland ! a last farewell to its people. It is without
doubt a land of beauty, of great fertility, and of great natural
resources ; but its condition, sociaUy and politically, even now, is
such that statesmen are at their wits' end to suggest measuresi
calculated to make it a peaceful, a prosperous, and a happy home fdr
its long and sorely-tried sons and daughters.

CHAPTER VIII.
South Australia — Victoria — Tasmania — 1847.
Hurrying, back to London, I at once made preparations for my
immediate return to Australia. Considering it a good opportunity
of visiting the other Australian colonies, or some of them, I took
passage in a vessel bound for Adelaide. South Australia, at this
period of its early history, was in a state of considerable excitement
over the somewhat recent discovery of an extraordinarily rich copper
mine — the great Burra-Burra. When we arrived in the Colony
a good story was being told of what had happened when the mine
was being first worked.
The population of South Australia at that time consisted of men
who were dubbed " gentlemen,'' and of men who were too proud
to care to be caUed such. The proprietary of the mine was of course
made up of these two sets of men, and it was soon discovered that
they could not puU together, and neither would submit to have the
mine managed exclusively by the other. It was feared that in the
meantime the interests of proprietors might suffer. Rather than
this, it was agreed that the mine should be divided into two lots — a
half to be handed over to the " Nobs," as they were playfully labelled,
and a half to the " Snobs," as they got to be called ; first choice of
divided property to be determined by a toss of a half-penny. All
this was agreed to ; the property was divided into two equal parts,
the half-penny was pitched into the air, and the " Snobs," winning the
toss, had the good luck to select that portion yielding fortunes to the
proprietors, while the poor " Nobs " got nothing worth having.
I paid a visit to this reaUy wonderful mine, and was very pleased
at having had an opportunity of judging of its extent and richness.
Other mines of copper ore and lead were subsequently discovered
and worked within a short distance of this locality, but none that I
ever heard of turned out as rich or lasting as this far-famed Burra-
Burra mine.
On our way back to Adelaide we puUed up at a road side inn
for a drink. My companions caUed for bottied beer and brandy, and
were quickly served. I then asked for a glass of water, and was not

57
so quickly served. Repeating my request, the barman grinned all
over his face, and stUl seemed in no hurry to serve me. I then said,
" Are there no wells of water in the land?" He replied, " O yes,
master, for the matter of that, lots of 'em — more than enough; but I
was just struck all of a heap, as the saying is, when you ' ordered ' a
glass of water, and looked as if you meant it. I have been in the
colony since its first settlement, served behind a bar many a long day ;
but I never before heard a man in his senses call for a glass of water.
I do wonder what the sensation is, — if I ever knew, I have long ago
forgotten." There is water good enough for drinking in Australia,
and in sufficient quantity to satisfy the thirst of an army of water-
drinkers ; but believe me when I say that for the real thing you must
come back to New Zealand, where the supply is abundant and pure,
and where water never needs iceing. I was, the other day, told of a
man who, returning to New Zealand after having run through
Australia, on landing at the Bluff, rushed up to the first pump that
came into view, and drank again and again, admitting that he was
experiencing a sensation that foi; many a day he had been a stranger
to. I have a friend who brews good beer, who never tires of
maintaining that the water in Canterbury being so pure and good, it
must have been intended by nature to be brewed into beer.
South Australia, even in these early days of its settlement, was
something more than a mining district. It had already attracted
attention as a wheat-growing land, and a squatting country of some
importance. It is well known to all residents in the Southern Hemis
phere, that a few years after the time of which I am writing, South
AustraUa became a very important grain-growing colony, and that the
quality of the grain grown in it has never been surpassed.
I next visited Melbourne and Geelong, and the country extend
ing some thirty miles or so to the westward, riding through fields
of native grass that were quite equal, if not superior, to any that I
had ever seen in the colony of New South Wales. At that time the
country was wholly held and occupied by squatters, and for many
years afterwards was rightly regarded as the cho cest field for invest
ment open to men of enterprise and capital.
I have been lately reading, in a work intituled " A History of
the Discovery and Exploratation of Australia," by the Rev. Julian
E. Tenison Woods, some account of the first discovery of the open
country about Melbourne and Geelong. He writes : —

58
" From a hill in the neighbourhood alternate plains and forest
were seen extending as far as the eye could reach, forming a most
beautiful view of swelling downs and gentle hills, looking, amid the
gorgeous lines of sunset, like a lovely and deserted paradise.
" The first explorers of this fertile land, Messrs. Hume and
Hovell, travelled over extensive plains. At twenty miles they came
upon a river with splendid country up and down its banks. Leaving
it the next day, they saw before them a strange appearance on the
level horizon, which at first they took to be burning grass. It was
the sea. The country near the beach was a splendid plain, between
what is known as the harbours of Geelong and the Werribee, a river
which Mr. Hume had named the Arndell.
" A great change has come over the place since then, though
only forty years ago. The plains are still there, and the river, and
the sea, but across the track of the explorers, amid that solitary plain,
a railway now runs, and the lonely hiUs often re-echo with the shrill
steam-whistle. From the top of Youyang Hume gazed upon as fair
a scene as ever met the sight of an explorer, but lonely as the grave.
Barely forty years after, I have enjoyed the same view ; but it was a
thing of life. At the opposite extremities of the plain were two
large and populous cities, looking in the clear atmosphere of
Australia, by far too important and extensive to be the work of two
hundred years. Could anyone have told Hume what a future he
was then preparing, for the place, he would indeed have been proud
of the position in which his discoveries that day had placed him."
This expedition and exploration by Messrs. Hume and Hovell
is rightly spoken of by the historian referred to as one of the most
important made in Australia, as far as the value of the country dis
covered is concerned. The New South Wales Government fully
appreciated this, and rewarded the explorers by giving them grants
of land. When I first visited Melbourne in 1847, there was going on a
general flitting of Tasmanian settlers across the straits, to take up
runs lying invitingly open in the colony of Port PhiUip, as Victoria
was then called, and these eariy squatters and settlers soon reaped a
harvest that a long life spent in sowing in the old colony of Van
Diemen's Land would not have yielded. It may be truly said of
Victoria, that for its extent there is no Australian colony in which so
little of its area can be classed as worthless or inferior land.

59
A great change came over the face of the country when it
became a gold-producing district. The first discovery of gold in
payable quantity was made in New South Wales in the Bathurst
country — I think first at Ophir, on the Macquarrie river, and sub
sequently at the Turon river, within easy distance of the town of
Bathurst. The announcement of the actual discovery of gold by a practical
and experienced miner was regarded as a great fact, and spoken of
by men in business as the turning point in the history of the colony.
Statesmen and politicians saw in it the beginning of a new order of
things. WilUam Charles Wentworth, in his place in Parliament,
spoke of it as having precipitated the colony into a nation.
No one was wholly proof against the excitement that set in, and
few able to resist the temptation of trying their luck at the diggings.
Of the multitude who flocked there, provided with pick and shovel,
some made fortunes, some only earned wages, and some spent all
their ready money in pursuit of wealth for the search of which by
hard work their pre-vious life and training had ill-fitted them-
Leaving Melbourne, I took steamer for Sydney, arriving in good
health, and well content to be again amongst my many relations and
friends, from whom I had been separated for nearly three years.
Three years are but a short time in a man's life, and as life goes on
such a period seems shorter and shorter. But short as those three
years seemed when passed, there appeared to me great changes both
in the place and in the people since I had last looked upon them.
The harbour of Sydney, even capacious as it is, seemed to me not
quite so grand a thing as I had thought it to be. But that impres
sion soon wore off, and I again got to think of it as second to none
in the world.

CHAPTER IX.
New South Wales — Bank of Australia Case — My Marri^e — Climate of Australia.
After my return to New South Wales, the colony of my birth, my
first trip into the interior was to the western district, where I owned
land and stock left to me under my father's wiU. The property willed
by my father to his first and second family was in the form of both real
and personal estate, consisting of land, live stock, houses, mortgages,
and Bank of Australia shares. Legacies left to his first family were
directed to be paid at once out of the sale of these bank shares.
When that was done there stiU remained bank stock to the value of
;^iooo or more, which, during the minority of the second family, was
of course held by our trustees. In other words, the second family,
of which I was one, were in the position of shareholders in the bank.
The Bank of Australia coUapsed, and that happening, all shareholders
were held to be legally liable for the whole amount of indebtedness
of the bank, amounting at the time to the respectable sum of
;^25o,ooo. The bankrupt bank had assets, but they were of nominal
value, and were subsequently disposed of by what was euphemistically]
called a legal lottery, and for an inappreciable sum. My brother and
I held tickets in this sham and novel lottery, under an impression
that as shareholders in the bank we were certain in any case to have
the financial life crushed out of us, and that nothing worse than that
could happen to us in consequence of our taking tickets, even if we
drew no prizes. In deaUng with the so-called prizes, there was some
show of an attempt at classification. They were divided into
"good" so-caUed, and "bad" or questionable securities. The
impression on the minds of deluded ticket-holders was that although
the "bad" or "questionable" might turn out "very bad," that the
"good" would prove properties worth winning and holding. My
brother and I at least believed thus much. The great lottery took
place, and the result, so far as it was interesting to me, was that I
found myself nominal proprietor of a farm of 50 acres included in
the catalogue of "good " tides, and town aUotments, so caUed, to the
number of twenty-eight in a viUage picturesquely situated and graphi

6i
m
caUy described as on the " wooded banks of a lovely river " and all
with water frontage.
I lost no time in visiting the locality of this great prize of a
50-acre farm, fiUed with pleasurable sensations at the prospect of
entering into possession of my property. Riding up to the door of
the shanty which served the purposes of a house, I encountered the
occupier, regarding him as my future tenant, and inclined to con
gratulate myself upon having such already provided for me. This
interesting individual stared hard at me, and upon my telling him
who I was and what had brought me there, remarked : " Oh, you are
Mr. Cox, are you ; and you are the man that considers himself entitled
to this farm that I have been in occupation of for the last twelve
years or more ? Well, let me tell you at once that you are not the
only one who considers that he has a claim to the farm, and that I
am the man who means to dispute your right." I confess I was not
a little taken by surprise at this glib announcement, and not too weU
pleased at this illustration of tenant-right. I ought to add that the
man in possession was backed up by an outrageously ill-looking bull
dog, straining at his chain and keeping up a barking accompaniment
to his master's talk. The conclusion that I quickly came to in the
matter was to let the question of ownership stand over to a more
convenient season.
The explanation afterwards furnished me by the bank authorities
as to this man's position was that he had been a tenant on the
property for some years, paying his rent regularly up to the time that
it appeared to be no one's business to look him up, and that, feeling
indignant at being utterly neglected, he had at last set up a claim of
ownership on the ground of long and unquestioned occupation.
I never saw my friend in possession after this interview — his society
did not seem to me worth cultivating. In the end I made a present
of my right, title, and interest in this property and in the documents
relating thereto to a smart and enterprising lawyer's clerk, who
seemed to believe that under clever manipulation something might
be got out of it. The forty-eight tickets supposed to represent titles
to town allotments I subsequently sold for as many half-crowns, and
this is all I ever got out of the great Bank of Australia " lottery."
In course of time the bank assets were realized, and the large
deficiency in the form of a liabUity was made up by two calls of 60
per cent, upon the paid-up shares, which had to be met, and were

62
finally satisfied by those able to pay. The final settiement of this
bank claim was a relief to a large number of people, myself amongst
the number, who until the account was closed by the payment in fuU
of the debt due by the bank, had no security that they might not be
sold up at any moment; it having been declared that each individual
shareholder was legally liable for the whole amount of debt,
^250,000. Relieved of this pecuniary liability and of the anxiety that it had
occasioned me, I felt a free man, and the first use that I made of my
freedom was to make a slave of myself for life. I met my fate. I
took it into my head and heart that I wanted a wife, and in due time I
found myself an engaged man. I adopted the novel method of
causing my friends and acquaintances to disbelieve the interesting
announcement of my engagement by on all possible occasions pro
claiming it as a fact. Some were taken in by this open confession,
deeming it the most unlikely thing in the world that I should be so
ready to publish my weakness. Some thought it incredible that,
having gone round the world without, so far as they knew, my ha-ving
ever seriously thought of matrimony, that I should have been so
quickly and completely captivated on my return to my native land
without seeming to have made the merest struggle to preserve my
independence ; adding, " Now, if this story of an engagement had
been told of your brother, whom we aU speak of as a susceptible
man, it would not have seemed so very unlikely a thing, but we
thought that you belonged to the wiser sort.'' Again, my married
sister said, " Ah, dear, I never expected you to marry, and I always
thought of you as a second father and guardian to my children."
After a twelve months' engagement, the silken knot was tied, in
the month of November, in the year 1849 — nearly thirt>-four years
ago, and during those eventful years neither party who had a hand in
tying the knot has made any attempt to undo or to cut it. I suppose
it must have been rather weU tied, as well as made of pretty strong
material. There is a kind of knot, a complication of threads so
arranged that by pulling at opposite ends and different ways
becomes tighter and tighter. This must have been the kind of knot
tied on that never-to-be-regretted 26th of November, 1849. I think
it is called a love-knot. The dictionaries speak of it as " an intricate
kind of knot, so called from being used as a token of love or as
representing mutual affection." But I don't want the worid to beUeve

63
that my good wife and I have for nearly thirty-four years been
" pulling at opposite ends or different ways." I had rather hear on
record an admission of the fact that during those years we have each
found our own proper sphere to work in, and that the path or orbit
described by the one has never been crossed or aUowed to interfere
with the course of the other.
The first five or six years of our married life were passed in
Australia. My interest in stock, sheep, cattle, and horses often toolf
me into the interior ; and I rather enjoyed these periodical rides,
although the weather at times was hotter than agreeable.
An old Australian squatter, well seasoned to the climate of
Queensland, but growing a little tired, of semi-tropical weather, took
it into his head to make New Zealand his home. His wife left
Australia still loving or professing to love its climate, and never could
be got to admit that New Zealand, in the matter of climate, was to
be compared to North Australia. The husband at last deemed it
wise to take his wife back to Australia for a trip, trusting that it would
have the effect of opening her eyes to the superiority of New Zealand
as a place to live in. The experiment succeeded. After a short
experience of the hot weather in Queensland that she had known of
old, and had professed to have loved, she exclaimed, " Oh, how^ I
pity these poor creatures, condemned to live in such an atmosphere
all the year round. Take me back to New Zealand."
I have never been in Queensland, and know nothing of its
climate by experience, but I have lived through many a hot summer
in the old colony of New South Wales, which is spoken of as cool
by comparison, and I have found that quite hot enough for my taste.
When I had long rides before me in Australia in the hottest season
of the year, I used to knock off eighteen or twenty miles before
breakfast. I then took a long spell, finishing up in the evening with
another twenty miles. Swagsmen trudging along a dusty road in a
hot dry season, suffer considerably at times. I remember on one
occasion, coming up with a man dead-beat, literaUy unable to drag
himself along a yard further. I shall never forget that sight. He
was squatted in the dust, unable to stand up, and apparently perishing
for the want of a cup of water. The account he gave of himself was
that he had been without water for two days, walking the whole time.
I had never looked upon a man in such a stage of suffering and
exhaustion. His eyes were glazed, and his lips and tongue as black

64
as though they had been smeared over with caustic. On my coming
into sight, he threw up his arms, exclaiming, " Thank God, someone
has at last come to rescue me from death !" Before quite giving in,
he appeared to have made a last effort to drag himself along the
dusty road ; one could see traces of his attempts. He then sat up
with his back against a tree. He had been afraid, he said, to close
his eyes in sleep, dreading the attacks of native dogs that all night
long howled around him. He looked like a man doomed either to
madness or death, and could hardly have lingered longer than twenty-
four hours. The spot where he was was at least seven miles' from
water. There were two ways of affording him relief; one, by at
once putting him on my horse, holding him in the saddle, and walk
ing by his side ; the other, by gallopping to where water was to be
had and bringing back a sufficient supply to freshen him up and
enable him to sit upon the horse without assistance. Calculatmg
that it would take somewhat less time to gallop seven mUes out and
seven miles back than to walk and lead the horse seven miles, I
determined upon the ride. When I told him that I meant to leave
him for a whUe, he clung to me, seeming to dread the possibUity of
his being left to die in the wUderness. Putting spurs to my horse,
quite equal to the spurt required of him, I covered the distance there
and back, quite fourteen miles, in somewhat less than an hour. On
coming up to him, he cried out, " Oh, sir, give it to me at once ; all
of it." I replied, " Not so, I mean to dole it out Uttle by litde ;
now for a first sip," giving him a little, and after a short interval
giving him another, and another, and so on, but never much at one
draught. I then poured a little over his head, face, neck and hands,
which he considered a reckless dealing with it. Reserving two or
three draughts in the bottle to be given at intervals during his ride, I
after some exertion pushed him up on to the horse. Occasionally,
whilst leading the horse, I looked back at him ; his eye never
wandered from the bottie, and when at last we came in sight of the
station hut, where water in abundance was to be had, I gave him the
last drop. Lifting him off" the horse, I got him into the hut, made
him dip his head into a bucket of water, got him some strong tea, and
put him on to a bed. The shepherd living at the hut promised to let
him rest for a day or two, and undertook to do for him all that was
necessary until he felt strong enough to move on. Many months
afterwards I had the satisfaction of hearing that he quickly regained

65
strength, and was fuU of gratitude to God for having, as he believed,
sent some one to drag him from the very jaws of death.
The accommodation-houses along the main lines of road in the
interior throughout Australia were, even in those days, fairly well
kept. In the hottest season of the ye.ar, however, it used to be a
little difficult to keep up a supply of fresh meat. A daily slaughter
ing of sheep was a necessity. On one occasion, puUing up at one of
these roadside inns, I ordered breakfast, imploring the landlord to be
quick in getting it. I waited patiently for what I considered a long
while, but no breakfast was put before me. At last I heard a great
noise, and a shouting of " Stop him ; now then, hold him, good dog."
Jumping up to see -what it all meant, I was nearly knocked over by a
sheep bounding through the passage, pursued by a dog, a man, and a
small boy, who together succeeded at last in capturing him. The
excitement over, I asked how much longer I was to wait for my
breakfast. " Well, sir," said the landlord, " as soon as ever me and
the boy can take off the sheep's skin you shall have your chops."
This brings to a close the story of my life and doings in Aus
tralia. The remainder of my life up to the present time, with the
exception of two-and-a-half years spent in a second trip to England,
have been spent in New Zealand, north and south.

CHAPTER X.
New Zealand — How I came to Visit it — Canterbury — Its People — Its Plains —
My First Trip to South Canterbury.
I AM now in a mood to tell the story of how I was induced, and
by whom, to visit Canterbury, New Zealand.
In the year 1854, whilst on a visit to my wife's friends, at New
castle, New South Wales, I was introduced to Mr. Sidey, at that
time engaged — and very profitably, it was conjectured — in shipping
sheep, cattle, and horses, with a fair sprinkling of foals in addition,
to Canterbury, Wellington, and Otago.
He had much to say about New Zealand in general, and of
Canterbury in particular. Of the latter, its climate, its soil, and of
its certain and prosperous future, he apparently knew not when he
had said enough, enthusiastically declaring that it was the choicest
spot in a land of Goshen, — a land if not already fuU to overflowing
with milk and honey, ready at once to afford a future and a happy
home to all the beeves and bees that enterprising shippers and
settlers could import into it.
This experienced man urged me again and again to lose no time
in visiting it, for that it was, beyond question, far and away above all
other British colonies ; and in fertUity, second to none in the known
world !
Who could help lending a listening ear to aU this enthusiastic
talk of the great future of this new El Dorado called Canterbury, or
turn away from the opportunities for investment lying invitingly
open to men of moderate capital and unbounded enterprise ? I, at
anyrate, yielded to the fascination of this inspired advocate of the
claims of Canterbury to a chief place in the future of New Zealand.
I visited Canterbury, taking stock -with me, intending to part
with them if I was not satisfied with the look of the country, and to
hold them if the story told of its grazing excellencies and future capa
bilities had a sound foundation. Before visiting it, nowever, I quite by
accident met with a man who had recentiy come from Canterbury.;;
Inquiring from him whether a stranger going down to Canterbury'
would find it difficult to secure unoccupied gra.-^ing country, I was

67
told that the province, from one end to the other, was already mapped
out into runs and allotted, but only to a small extent stocked, and
that if I was prepared to purchase, there \vould be no difficulty in
getting a run. This gentleman, so well informed upon grazing
matters in Canterbury, finished up by offering to sell me a run not
yet stocked, for which he demanded the sum of ;^ioo. I paid the
price demanded, and put into my pocket the " license to occupy,"
with the transfer of his right, title, and interest therein.
This transaction closed, both to his satisfaction and to mine, he
somewhat timidly, and with the air of a man who was really conscious
of a desire to do a smart thing for himself, pulled out of his pocket
a second " license to occupy," stating that he had it also for sale, but
that owing to its being of inferior quality he was prepared to take for
it the smaller sum of ;^5o. Paying this sum, I became owner of the
second run. These two runs I afterwards occupied and stocked.
They proved to be equal in quality to the very best natural grass
country that was to be seen in South Canterbury.
The first great financial mistake of my life was the parting with
my interest in that property. I came, I saw, and if later on I cannot
be said to have conquered, I will not lay the blame on the country
that first attracted me, or upon the man who first advised my visiting
it. The burden of the blame must rest on my own shoulders. I
have never desired to shake it off" with the intention of making
another bear it.
The man who sold .his interest in these runs to me was what in
those days was called a " Canterbury pUgrim.'' It is quite possible
that some of my readers may need enlightening as to the meaning of
the term. A pilgrim was one Of the original Canterbury colonists
who came out from England under the auspices of the Canterbury
Association. He, like many another of the lot, was sufficiently proud
of the distinction. In those early days the Canterbury province was
said to be peopled by "pilgrims," "prophets," and "shagroons." Why
these earliest emigrants from the old country were caUed " pUgrims "
needs no explanation. They were wanderers from the land of their
fathers. " Shagroons " embraced all outsiders — all the uncovenanted,
as they were playfully caUed — men who had strayed over the borders of
neighbouring provinces or who had come over the -waters from Aus
tralia. This first detachment of Australian squatters that came with
the very legitimate object of spying out the nakedness of the land.

68
soon got to be caUed " prophets," from their being much given to
prophesying as to the future of Canterbury and its settlers.
These Australians were experienced in all matters relating to the
management of stock, able and ready to turn their hands to any sort
of out-of door work, and were at once accepted by the pilgrims as
reliable guides in such matters.
In the early days, when the distinctive names were well under
stood and playfuUy applied, a good thing descriptive of Canterbury
and its colonists was said by Edward Jerningham Wakefield. In
reply to the question put to him by an Australian recently arrived as
to the class of colonists to be encountered in Canterbury, he said,
" Sir, I perceive by your question that you are a stranger. Under
stand, then, that the great and obvious distinction between the popu
lation of Canterbury and the other provinces of New Zealand is, that
Canterbury is peopled by representatives of every class and section
of English society, from the peer to the peasant, while the population
of the other provinces is nothing more or less than a straggUng,
struggling mob — an undistinguished herd, made up of mere men and
women." Edward Jerningham Wakefield was the only son of Edward
Gibbon Wakefield, one of the chief promoters of the scheme of
colonisation resulting in the Canterbury settlement. He (the son)
became a settler in New Zealand, and for a short time took a promi
nent part in New Zealand politics, holding a seat in the first House
of Representatives at its assembling at Auckland in 1854. He was
included in a Ministry that lived a short life in the same session. He
was admittedly clever, and was a fluent speaker, later in life develop
ing a talent for successful out-of door oratory that has not often been
surpassed in New Zealand. At the outset of his poUtical and parlia
mentary career he was regarded by many as likely to command
success, but he certainly failed to make the most of his opportunities.
The father's antecedents in connection with Canada, as well as
New Zealand, are weU known to aU students of colonial constitutions.
He had a high order of intellect, and was cuUivated up to the Umit
of his capacity ; was handsome, after a true English type; and in my
humble judgment, was as able a debater as the Parliament of New
Zealand could boast the possession of And yet he was not a
Pariiamentary success. During the interregnum between the fall of
the first Ministry in the General Assembly and the formation of the

69
second, he held the position of adviser to General Wynyard, the
Acting-Governor. But he never held office in a regularly-constituted
Ministry representing the Governor and responsible to Parliament.
The lives and labours of so many men of inferior parts and of
a less varied and eventful experience having in these days been
written, one is a little inclined to wonder that no one qualified for the
performance has yet taken in hand the responsibUity and labour of
recording the many efforts that this able and energetic man made, in
speech and in print, to impress upon the minds of Englishmen the
necessity and charms of systematic colonization. I have never had
the opportunity of reading his book on the " Art of Colonization ;"
but if he wrote as vigorously, as pleasantly, and as persuasively as he
spoke, I can hardly wonder at the great success of his many attempts
to move his countrymen to seek out a new home in a fair and far-off
land. Since writing the foregoing pages relating to the father, Edward
Gibbon Wakefield, I have had put into my hands a book entitled
" The Founders of Canterbury," vol. i consisting almost exclusively
of letters written by him, when the scheme of colonizing Canterbury
was being discussed and organized. This book is edited by the son.
In his preface he -writes thus of the last few years of his father's life :
" At a public meeting at the Hutt (WeUington) called by him in 1854
on his return from Auckland, to explain his political action during
the session, he spoke for five-and-a-half hours amidst impressive
silence ; returned to Wellington in an open chaise against a south-east
gale ; sickened, Ungered for seven years in the privacy of a sick
room, and died in May, 1862, aged 66."
His portrait, spoken of by the son and by all who had seen him
as a truthful and beautiful likeness, is hanging up in the Canterbury
Museum. In the obituary notice in the Press newspaper he was
spoken of as one always fully occupied, and that " more matter had
issued from his brain to which, when printed, other names had been
appended than from that of any other man." Although so
voluminous a writer on colonization, and connected indirectly with
those initiatory plans, he never seemed to have had an opportunity —
never was allowed to carry into operation his own views and his own
schemes. The writer of the notice referred to then goes on to say : " Con
sidering the persons with whom he was in communication, and the

7°
subjects of his correspondence, we should imagine that his private
letters would form a volume of great interest, for he was a most
admirable letter-writer. But his great forte was his power of conver
sation. In that he was indeed without a rival. Not that he possessed
the ordinary powers of a talker. His qualities were neither convivial
nor social. It was in the private interview, seated by his o-wn fire,
with his magnificent blood-hounds at his feet, when he had a point to
carry or a cause to serve, that his singular powers of fascination had
full play. Few men could resist his influence, except those — and
they were not a few — who resolutely refused to submit to a searice.
Those who remember the cottage at Riegate, where statesmen used to
come for counsel, and Ministers have sought advice, can never forget
the rare enjoyment of an evening spent in the company of this most
remarkable man."
These letters by Edward Gibbon 'Wakefield were addressed to
such men as Lord Lyttelton, Sir WiUiam Molesworth, Messrs. Buller,
Baring, Adderley, and others playing an important part in Parliamen
tary life in the old country ; and to such men as Mr. Godley, Messrs.
FitzGerald, Sew'ell, Simeon, DUlon Bell, and many others equally well
known in the colony.
But the burden of the hard work of organizing and pushing
into notice the Association, seems to have been borne by Wakefield
and Godley ; the latter of whom, as Canterbury pilgrims are not yet
in a mood to forget, became the first agent of the Association.
All who had any experience of Mr. Godley in his administrative
work are of opinion that he was a first-class man. The writer of the
readable book " Colonial Experiences in New Zealand," an old Can
terbury resident, admits his great usefulness and aptitude for aU sorts
of official work, and speaks of his speech at Lyttelton on Sir George
Grey's "Provincial Councils Ordinance," then being criticised by
the public, as " a masterpiece of cogent reasoning and eloquence."
Mr. Godley's personal connection with the colony terminated after
two years of indefatigable labour. He was further spoken of by the
same writer in the following terms :— " His commanding inteUect,
winning eloquence, and administrative ability, conferred upon hira
such a proud pre-eminence, and removed him so far above his con
temporaries, that, unconsciously it may have been to himself, his was
a personal government of the most pronounced type ; a kind of
inteUectual despotism that unintentionally repressed and stifled aU free

71
discussion, because no one felt sufficient confidence in himself to
enter the arena."
But anyone having the time, opportunity, and inclination, had better
at once procure a copy of the book edited by J. E. FitzGerald, intituled
" Speeches, &c., by Godley." This volume is made up of " des
patches," "speeches," "letters," and memoranda relating to subjects
mainly connected with colonial questions. It opens with an interest
ing sketch of the life of Mr. Godley, drawn by a friendly hand, quite
competent to do justice to the character and acquirements of this
exceptionally gifted man. That he was an orator, no one who ever
heard him speak would dream of denying. The quality that he is
said by his friends to have possessed in an unrivalled degree was
" the rare one of an earnestness not simulated — not the trick of an
actor, but real and heartfelt, which carried conviction to the mind of
the hearer. He was emphatic, clear, and logical, and in a word, the
most convincing speaker we ever listened to." In matters of religion
he is spoken of as " thoroughly sincere and devout." " In manners
he was not always popular. He was often very thoughtful and
abstracted, and so gained credit for a haughtiness and discourtesy
quite foreign to his character." " He had an unmitigated contempt
for humbug of every kind, either in the form of dishonesty in money
matters, hypocrisy in religion, or of corruption in pubic life. Honour
able himself up to the loftiest standard of chivalry, he shrank
instinctively from anything like trickery, public or private, in other
men." A writer in the Press newspaper speaks of his remarkable love
of work, not grudgingly or of necessity, but from a heartfelt convic
tion that — to use his own words — "life is a battle, not a feast,'' and
that "it is the business of man, and most of aU the noblest men, to
work, to struggle,, and to strive.'' The same hand writes : " The
erection of this statue wUl be a proof that Canterbury is not unmind
ful of services rendered to her, and that all who in their several
capacities have devoted themselves to supporting her interests wUl
ever be held in high esteem."
On the occasion of the inauguration of his statue, Mr. Charles C.
Bowen, who took the chief part in the ceremony, and who had been
his intimate friend, spoke fully and eloquently of the many services
rendered to the settlement in its earliest days by this hard-headed
and honest-hearted man. He said : " I am not now defending all

72
the theories of the founders of Canterbury. Experience teaches
many lessons ; and Mr. Godley himself would have been the last
man to uphold aU the visions with which he started. But the great
enthusiasm which led to a great endeavour bore its natural and legiti
mate fruit." Again, " In some future day, when this generation is
dead and gone, to those who look up inquiringly at this statue, it wiU.
be told how the fathers of the colony left their homes and tamed the
wilderness under the leadership of a man of heroic type ; how when
he died, the representatives of the people, appreciating his character,
determined to erect a monument worthy of his memory ; and how a
great sculptor, in executing the work, impressed it with the stamp of
his genius." " So shall some old man speak in the after time
To all the people, winning reverence."
Of Mrs. Godley, and of the influence exercised by her on Can
terbury society before the rushing in of a flood of strangers, he
¦writes appreciatively, speaking of her as " ever gentle, cheerful, and
uniformly courteous to all."
Such men as Mr. Godley deserve to be well spoken of, and the
good done by him and those near and dear to him to be had in ever
lasting remembrance. The early Canterbury colonists who witnessed
and benefited by such intelligent and unselfish devotion, do but show a
just appreciation of what is excellent when they speak proudly and
affectionately of the first founder of the Canterbury settlement.
My first venture in the shipment of sheep, cattle, and horses to
Canterbury was in the Admiral Grenfel, in 1854. She was a smart
barque, but built for quick sailing rather than for the carrying of live
stock. We were not long in coming up with Cook Strait, and in due
time were landed at Lyttelton. The Australians who accompanied
me in this my first trip to Canterbury with stock, were not too favour
ably impressed by the first view of the hiUs around Lyttelton harbour.
They had heard a good deal of the vast plains of Canterbury, but
nothing, or very little of the high hiUs cutting them off from the
Port. Having made arrangements for the temporary grazing of the
stock, within easy reach of Christchurch, I lost no time in making
arrangements to inspect the runs that I had purchased in Australia.
When on arrival I announced that I had bought a man's interest in

73
runs, I was thought to have done a foolish thing, and told that nearly
the whole of South Canterbury was unoccupied, and lying invitingly
open, and that without purchasing anyone's interest therein, I could,
by applying to the Commissioner of Crown Lands, secure all the
country that I was in search of I thus was made aware that this
transaction in which I had recently figured as a principal and the
purchaser, and my pilgrim friend, the seUer, was the first of the kind
that had been heard of or sanctioned by the authorities in Canter
bury. Not long after this, such sales and purchases became common
enough. I shipped from Australia, from first to last, not less than three
thousand sheep, three hundred and fifty head of cattle, and forty to
fifty horses. What out of these I threw overboard on the voyage
over, I don't care now to write down.
I arrived in Canterbury knowing no man in it except Mr. Angus
Macdonald. His brother WUliam, who had arrived in Canterbury the
year before, I had not at that time met. I saw him for the first
time Uving on his station at the Waimakariri river, where these two
brothers, seasoned squatters, were to be seen at work all day long,
and every day, after a fashion that caused enthusiastic pUgrims,
looking on, to express admiration and envy. On my first visiting
them, they were li-ving under canvas ; very busy, very joUy, and very
sanguine as to their future prospects. These men, who belonged to
the order of " prophets " already referred to, had had considerable
experience in Victoria in squatting life, and were, I think they told
me, induced to take up runs and try their luck in Canterbury, by the
description given of it by Mr. Robert Rhodes, who thought and
spoke of this new colony of Englishmen as a paradise for squatters
in its early days, and likely to become in the end a thriving agricul
tural settlement.
Amongst the accomplishments that Australiajps of the above
type could fairly boast was the hitherto unexperienced sight and
sound of the crack of a stock-whip, and the art of driving a team of
buUocks. They certainly did this in superior style — to the astonish
ment of pilgrims, and to the intense delight of small boys, who,
when they heard the ringing crack of the bullock-driver's whip, and
saw the driven team approaching, crouched down in the ditches or
peeped round corners, crying out in an ecstasy of delight, " Clear
the road, make room for the bullocky all the way from Australy.

74
An old professional buUock-driver of the labouring class once
spoke, of Angus Macdonald's claim to be regarded as Ai in the
accomplishment, in the foUowing terms :— " I never see a swell
handle a whip and drive buUocks to beat him ; but after aU said and
done, we old hands, you know, brought up to the business, only
think and speak of him as a hamature " (amateur).
The men whose talk was of buUocks, sheep, cattie, and horses
in those days, the remnant of them (for many have joined the
majority) are now to be encountered sporting fine linen and living
sumptuously. Making known, to my friends, the Macdonalds, that I was going
south, to inspect the runs that I had purchased in AustraUa, I was
told that we were likely to become neighbours, for that they also
held country in that part of the province, and that ere long they
would be prepared to stock and occupy it. Getting from them aU
necessary information as to the nature of the rivers to be crossed,
and provided with a sketch-map of the country to be traveUed
through, I set out accompanied by my two Australian friends, Messrs.
Healey and WiUiam du Moulin.
Our first stage was to the Rakaia river, where we camped.
Thus far, we had traveUed along a weU-defined track; from this
point southwards we had to steer by a distant mountain peak, the
only further direction given us being " south-west by south, and
nothing to leeward." Early next morning we took a good look at
the river. We had heard much of these Canterbury rivers, of the
danger in crossing them when in the least flooded, and we had made
up our mind to take no liberties with them. On the side of caution,
I even proposed, in the presence of William Macdonald, to secure the
services of a guide, with a view of being piloted over them. But he
laughed at me, saying " it ill became men haUing from Australia to
be influenced by suph fears." We were thus left to our own judgment
in finding a ford, with the result that two out of our party were
quickly unhorsed, and with difficulty succeeded in scrambling out on
to the bank. This was eventful for a beginning. It had, however,
the good effect of preventing future mistakes. But as I only had
escaped a ducking, it devolved upon me during the remainder of the
trip to pUot the party over aU big rivers.
At the next big river, the Rangitata, in the crossing of which
caution was necessary, I had not only to ride over, having found a

75
safe ford, but I had to go back to my companions and accompany
them over, to such an extent had their nerves been shaken by their
recent sousing in the Rakaia.
It is well known to all Canterbury men that these snow rivers are
flooded after north-west winds. These hot dry winds, often blowing
for days, cause at times very serious risings ¦ in the big rivers, and
blow with a fury that even a mounted horse is unable or unwUling to
face. A contributor to the " Canterbury Rhymes," an old identity,
writes thus of the winds that Canterbury is too often buffeted by :
" Oh, squatters, beware of the powers of the air,
When you come with your cattle and sheep ;
For New Zealand's a spot just loosed out of pot,
And the wind there is never asleep.
" It comes from the south with a burst in its mouth,
Bringing snow, sleet, or drizzling rain ;
Or it changes to west, and does its behest
With a blast twice as furious again.
" The vessels at sea, stout and strong though they be,
Are totally lost to command :
The canvas is rent, the strong masts are bent,
Or they're hopelessly cast on the strand.
" The best of good fellows can't stand the strong bellows
That are ever at work on this shore ;
So stick where you are, it is better by far
Than come here and be heard of no more."
On the following day we reached the Ashburton river, where we
were comfortably housed for the night at a sheep station, that, for the
convenience of travellers, had to be turned into an accommodation
house. At this halting-place I first met Mr. David Innes, on his way
to Christchurch. He owned a station upon which he lived for some
years, a few mUes south of Timaru. On introducing ourselves, stating
that we were going on to the Orari river to form a station, he
welcomed us to the province, and spoke favourably of the locality
that we -were interested in, describing it as a well-grassed country and
in other respects as well suited for occupation. He caused us to
smUe when he enquired if we were provided with a pocket-compass
to steer our course by, declaring that it was a necessity at times,
owing to the dense fog that at that time of year was often encountered.
Finding us unprovided with one, he handed his over to us.

76
On the following morning we crossed the many streams of the
Ashburton river, and towards evening found ourselves on the north
bank of the Rangitata. The exact spot where we pitched our tent
on the banks of the Rangitata was within a few hundred yards of
where the traffic bridge now stands. At this time there was no
station occupied on that river ; but in a short time' a station was
formed, and huts erected within a stone's throw of our camping-
ground. The spot is now well known as the late Sir Cracroft Wilson's
head sheep station.
Crossing the river, which, though not deep at the time, was
troublesome to ride over, owing to the big boulders that were
embedded in its bottom, we steered for the lower end of the Waihi
bush, where we camped.
We were now actuaUy on the country included in my " licenses
to occupy,'' and were well satisfied with its quality. On the foUowing
day we headed the Raukapuka downs (having to thread our way
through a net-work of small swamps and creeks) and got on to the
Temuka river, and followed its course down to the ]Maori pah at
Arowhenua. Being within a short distance of Mr. WiUiam Hornbrook's station,
we called upon him, and were hospitably received and entertained. We
also received from him some reliable information as to the quaUty
and boundaries of the runs that I was now beginning to regard as my
own, and that I had travelled so far to see. Staying a day only in
the neighbourhood, we steered for the lower end of the Raukapuka
bush. We camped here, and quickly made up our minds that the
future head-station should be planted in the immediate locality. The
exact spot where our tent was pitched was where a blacksmith's shop
now stands, at the junction of roads near Geraldine on the left or
north bank of the river Waihi. It is a little remarkable that the only
few acres left of land still owned by me in this locality cover the site
of this first camping-ground on our flying trip through the country.
In the immediate vicinity of the Raukapuka bush were some
Maori huts, occupied by natives belonging to the pa at Arowhenua.
After our occupation of the country they frequented the spot but
seldom. Why they left it was best known to themselves. My repre
sentative at the station declared that the only good reason that he
could conjecture in accounting for their final disappearance from the
locality was that they had been refused a supply of sugar to sweeten

77 •'
the milk that they had been abundantly supplied with and seemed
very glad at first to get. MUk for nothing, supplied in abundance,
was goodj but they preferred sugar with it, and if they were not
suppUed with that they would do without the milk, and from that
time out they were taken at their word.
We made no long stay here, hurrying on to get over the
Rangitata river' before it had time to rise and pull us up in our course
northward. Having reached Christchurch without a serious check, we were
congratulated on having escaped the dangers of the rivers Rakaia
and Rangitata, and were pronounced fit to join the noble army of
squatters fast forming throughout the province of Canterbury.
Thus ended my first visit to Canterbury, in 1854. I made one
other trip with stock in the same year, in the ship Tory. The stock
landed and forwarded to the station, I left Lyttelton for Auckland,
on my way back to Australia, and did not revisit New Zealand until
the year 1857. MeanwhUe I again visited England.

CHAPTER XI.
1854 — Auckland — The General Assembly — First and succeeding Parliaments.
When I first visited Auckland in 1854, I found the General '
Assembly in full swing. It could be seen at a glance that the repre
sentatives from Wellington and the South Island were more at home,
if not more to the manner born, in Parliamentary forms of procedure
and practice than those representing Auckland constituencies. These
Southerners, as they got to be called, cut out and made the running
in a form that somewhat astonished their less politically-experienced
fellow-members. It was said of them, indeed, that they too plainly
showed that they were conscious of their superiority in this respect ;
and further, that they had no disincUnation to be regarded and
spoken of as statesmen par excellence, and the attic salt of the
Parliament of New Zealand.
In speaking generaUy of the men who formed this first ParUa-
ment of New Zealand, I have no hesitation in admitting what was
often said of them — viz., that they -were equal in inteUigence and in
political instinct to the members of any of the AustraUan legislatures,
and perhaps of a somewhat higher average cultivation. And in
speaking further of the men who made up this first General
Assembly of New Zealand, I am bold enough to say that they
compare favourably with their successors.
I was an entire stranger to them in the year 1854, but I soon
got to know them one and all, politically and personally, and the
more intimately I became acquainted with them publicly and privately,
the more convinced was I that my early impressions as to their
aptitude for political life was well founded.
Although the majority of those early colonists and legislators
were of a Conservative type in their opinions and poUcy, there were
in the minority quite a respectable number of men who represented
as extreme a form of Liberalism as rational politicians care to
profess. Some of the men who held seats in that first Pariiament of
the colony are no longer to be seen either in the Assembly or out of
it, but some still live, politically as well as physically — are to this day

79
showing good form amongst men who in those days were politically
unborn — and are stiU recognised as leaders, notwithstanding the large
influx into the legislature of new men of every type and nationality.
It is true that these " old identities" were enthusiasts, but they were
enthusiasts of the right stamp. They were settiers who had sought a
new home, hoping to better their condition by emigrating to a new
land ; politicians striving honestly and persistently to reproduce that
highest type of political life and freedom, burnt into the minds and
hearts of their fathers and forefathers, and worthy of being reflected
and perpetuated in the legislation of the land of their adoption.
And it may with truth be said of them that, publicly or privately,
they never turned their back upon the high ideal that they had set
up and strove to be guided by in their new home.
The sons and daughters of these earliest settlers and "pilgrims"
have great cause for thankfulness to the Giver of all Good that their
fathers lived before them, and that these -worthies were not above
working with their hands as well as their heads to acquire a standing
in the colony. The early promoters of colonisation in connection
with New Zealand, and the earliest settlers, are men of whom we are
all proud, and in respect to whom, in writing for the information of
my children, I dared not withold this tribute of acknowledgement
and respect. Thirty-four years have come and gone since the first ships landed
the Canterbury pilgrims. With singularly few exceptions, these first
settlers remained in the colony of their first selection. Not a few, in
the height of the Victorian gold-fields fever, went to try their luck at
the " diggings," but the majority came back to Canterbury, if not
rich in gold, very much richer in experience. The lesson that these
men never grew weary over in teaching their children was —
" 'Tis England where an English spirit dwells." — Cantirhury Rhymes.
After all these years, it is not unfair to begin to enquire into the
general characteristics of the first generation, born and brought up in
the colony. Are they or are they not equal in health, strength, and
intellect to their fathers ? Has the climate or the social atmosphere
of the colony, or aught else that there was no escape from, produced
in them an inferiority to their fathers ? Have they made the most of
their opportunities? It is perhaps not very wise to say "yes," or "no,"

8o
off-hand to these interesting questions — they demand a very careful
consideration ; but I am in a mood, at any rate, to maintain that the
fathers have some reason to be proud of their chUdren. I have seen
and lived amongst a generation of young people, born and brought
up elsewhere — I am referring to the colony of New South Wales, — in
which the means of education are all that could be desired, but where
the social surroundings were not so altogether satisfactory as they
may be said to be in New Zealand. The first generation born and
educated in that colony, originally to a large extent peopled by con
victs, had to face and contend with difficulties that young New
Zealand happily knows nothing of by experience. Socially the sons
of these men encountered obstacles, which, in early years, not a few
of them failed to overcome ; but politically, they more than held
their own, suffering nothing from the antecedents of their fathers —
rather, indeed, benefiting by them. But I speak now of forty-five to
fifty years ago, when fathers and sons stood side by side. Since that
day the old trees have died out, and are succeeded by a forest of well-
grown saplings, the natural outcome of a purer atmosphere and of a
cultivated soil.
Let this generation of young men and maidens in New Zealand
not forget that what they are is due to the inteUigence and foresight
of their fathers, whose leading aim in organising a community in this
antipodean world was to reproduce aU that is best in the country of
their birth ; and let not the fathers hesitate to admit that in all essen
tials, their sons are up to the standard of those hailing from the
fatherland. Of the fair and gentle sex, blossoming into beauty, and
shedding a bright light upon the lives of the sterner sex, I dare not
write, fearing to be told by men younger than myself, that at my time
of life I must certainly have forgotten — if I ever knew — what is
proper to be said on so delicate a subject, and how to say it.

CHAPTER XII.
1855 — Voyage to England — England.
Of our voyage to England I have little to record. We had as fellow-
passengers some old Australian colonists, with their families, and
amongst them some acquaintances and one or two friends.
On the voyage we put into Pernambuco, on the east coast o
South America. This became a necessity, through the mismanage
ment or dishonesty of our steward, a coloured gentleman, who had
contrived to exhaust our provisions and coal. We, however, welcomed
it as a great break in the voyage, although we had little time to do
more than run through the city and its suburbs.
The town or suburb of Olinda, some three mUes from the port,
is beautifully situated upon a cluster of eminences which are con
nected with the mountains further west. It is said to have once been
a considerable town, but it has been on the decline for the last two
centuries. It is rather well-built, contains many convents, an episco
pal palace, a botanic garden, and a college. The groves of , cooanut
trees were a striking feature in the scenery of the suburbs, and wholly
new to our Australian eyes. It was the first sight that I had ever had
of a tropical land. In every direction was to be seen a wealth of
flowers and fruit, many of both quite new to me.
I saw here also, for the first time, in large numbers, pure-bred
negroes — Africans glistening with an equatorial gloss. They were as
busy as bees, swarming along the narrow streets like ants streaming
out of an ant-hiU, leading or driving mules heavily laden with sugar.
We were told that aU the really hard work in the city and suburbs
was performed by them. They were men of splendid physique, and
had a rollicking way of going to work which seemed to justify the
assertion that they were well cared for, and not discontented with their
lot. We carried back to the ship boat-loads of fruit, cocoa-nuts
(green) being the most prized. Of these I was said to have partaken
a littie too freely, and had to pay the penalty. The only important
item of European news picked up here was the announcement of the
death of the Emperor of Russia.
This tropical land, apparentiy so weU suited to the growth and
perfection of fruits and flowers, seemed less suited, judging by what
G

82
we saw, to the production of sheep of a desirable type. The
creatures pointed out to us as the average sheep of the country were
apparently a cross between a sheep and a goat, wearing a coat of
many colours, with no covering worthy of being called wool, and
looking very unlike mutton. I am writing now of what the BrazUian
sheep was twenty-eight years ago. I am aware that since that day the
grazing capabOities of the country have been fully tested, resulting in
the fact that the improved merino is fast becoming acclimatised.
On arriving in England, we settled down for a short season in
London, where sight-seeing was our daily business, and music our
recreation. We were just in time to witness the distribution of
medals fo the Crimean heroes. The occasion was an interesting one,
well worth travelling a long way to be present at.
A year-and-a-half afterwards we were present at a review in Hyde
Park of the regiments just returned from active service at the close
of the war. This was perhaps, as a spectacle, even more interesting,
as at least half of the regiments on the ground and under review-
were in their service-stained uniforms, which contrasted strongly -with
the new and spruce clothing of the men just turned out of barracks.
I recognised one man only among the ten thousand on the ground
who marched past on that day. Him I had known well as a young
subaltern serving with the 8oth Regiment Foot in the colony of New
South Wales. He was now a colonel in the Guards. Twelve years
had elapsed since our last meeting. In the interval, he had seen
service in India and in Burmah, and certainly looked none the fresher
for these campaigns. He told me subsequently that his thirst for
military distinction was well-nigh satisfied ; that he was quite ready to
sheath his sword, and to join heartily thenceforth in a prayer for
peace between all peoples.
In London, the Italian Opera was as attractive as ever ; and at
Exeter Hall, at times, was to be heard an oratorio on a scale that was
seldom attempted in the provinces. Jenny Lind, at this time, had
retired from the operatic stage, but was stiU to be heard on occasions
at concerts. I heard her, and only once, at Cheltenham. I made a
second attempt to hear her at Oxford, but when my undergraduate
nephew and I presented ourselves at the door of the theatre, implor
ing admission, we were politely told that there was not even standing-
room within the walls of the building. We at any rate heard the echo
of her voice. At the conclusion of the concert, an enthusiastic female

83
admirer of the Swedish Nightingale, seeing her being driven along the
streets, exclaimed aloud, " If I have not heard her beautiful voice,
thank God, I have seen her happy face !" Her singing, when we
heard her, was said to be as powerful and as dramatic as ever, but her
voice was spoken of as having lost much of its purity and sweetness.
A man in the audience, sitting within a yard of me, on the occasion
when I heard her sing, exclaimed, on her warbling out her first notes,
". That's not the Jenny Lind that I once heard."
Of the great singers, those who pleased us most were Madame
Clara Novello, and Madame Dolby. The freshness, the fulness, the
bird-like melodiousness of Clara NoveUo's singing completely fasci
nated us, and wiU never be forgotten. V>Je were not a little pleased too
with the singing of Madame Anna Thillon, on the one occasion that
we heard her in the " Crown Diamonds.'' There was also at that time
a Madame Gassier, by her friends said to be a great singer, but whose
chief and only merit, her rivals and critics said, was that she could
sing one or two notes higher than any other warbler in Europe. A
great gift, certainly, and made the most of by the renowned Jullien,
who had the great good-luck and merit of introducing her to a Lbittdon
audience. The soaring high above the compass or register of all other
singers brings back to my recollection what I was once told at
Chamounix, in Switzerland, of a celebrated Frenchwoman, who had
distinguished herself in scaling the heights of the Alps and the
Pyrenees. On her accomplishing the ascent of Mount Blanc, and
being told, to her mortification, that she was not the first of her sex
that had succeeded in performing the perilous feat, she exclaimed,
" Hold me up, good guides, high on your shoulders, that I can at
least say that I have been higher than any other woman in Europe."
Madame Gassier also could truly say that she had been "higher than
any other woman in Europe." *
During the latter part of this summer, we made a trip to Scot
land, visiting friends, who were all eagerness to learn the latest news
of their belongings in Australia. The wife's relatives — a clan in them
selves — were very glad to see us; but they much wondered at our want
of judgment and taste in preferring to return to a land of cannibals,
when we now had the opportunity of living for the rest of our lives
in the land o' cakes. Amongst other acquaintances made in this
trip, I must not omit to mention that made with an old soldier, a

84
brother officer of my wife's father. This old man was a soldier every
inch of him, and by nature as attractive as a chUd — a fair specimen
of one of Nature's gentlemen. His wife, a clever woman, was not
cast in the same mould as himself, but she looked up to and loved
her lord and master, and was regarded by all who knew her as worthy
of her good husband, Rupert Campbell.
Before quitting Scotland, we visited Inverness, and whilst there
had an opportunity of being present at the great " Northern Meeting,''
the annual gathering of the Highlanders, and were not a little enter
tained by the exhibition of dancing and athletic exercises; and some
of us much more than entertained by the prolonged blast of a babel
of bagpipes. I once heard a Highlander say, in speaking of the
bagpipes, that to hear them in fullest perfection they should be posted
on a distant hill. I did'nt disagree with him.
We returned to England by way of Glasgow, and established
ourselves at Cheltenham for the winter. Our third child, a daughter,
was born here, the only one of the family born on English soil. She
often, in after years, playfully reminded her brothers and sisters of the
fact, affecting to regard it as a piece of great good luck.
Much as we enjoyed our sojourn in the old country, we were not
unready to return to Australia.
I had almost forgotten to mention that before leaving England,
on the very eve of our departure for Australia, I had an opportunity
of being present at a public dinner at Greenwich, on the anniversary
of the founding by the Canterbury Association of the settlement
of Canterbury. At this gathering, I saw for the first time some
of the chief promoters and friends of the Association. Quite fifty
sat down to the table. The Bishops of Oxford and of St. David's,
Lord Lyttelton and Mr. Godley, Sir Thomas Tancred, and many
others, parsons and laymen, and amongst them one or two whom I
had met previously in New Zealand. I am not quite sure whether
the occasion of their coming together was not a special one, and if
so, it was to commemorate the occasion of the payment of the last
instalment of a loan, contracted at a critical period in the financial
history of the Association, and made by Lord Lyttelton. It was
thought so unusual a thing to get back a considerable sum of money
lent to colonists, that Englishman-like, they could not resist meeting, i
eating, drinking, and speechifying over the matter. '
Mr. Godley was the chief speaker — perhaps the only one who

85
conveyed any solid information as to the actual condition of the
province. He appeared to have • at the tip of his tongue and ready
to be spouted forth at a moment's notice, all matters financial,
poUtical, and social that could possibly interest his hearers. Lord
Lyttelton also spoke, and then the bishops ; the Bishop of St. David's
briefly, but to the point ; the Bishop of Oxford not so briefly. It
was impossible to listen to Bishop \\'ilberforce — to his brilliant and
humorous speech — without at once admitting that he was one of the
ablest of men, and an accomplished orator. Although not quite
within ear-shot of his brisk, rattling, vivacious talk, I could speculate
as to its nature and quality by the obvious effect produced on his
immediate neighbours. Not a bad story was told of him in those
days, illustrating his readiness of repartee : An old lady said to him,
" Why is it, my lord, that the world calls you ' Soapy Sam ?' "
" Indeed, Lidy, I don't know, but I can guess, if that wiU satisfy you.
I suppose it is because I come out of everything with clean hands."
At this dinner, I sat by the side of an old gentleman who had a
very great deal to say about New Zealand. He ¦was, of course, igno
rant of the fact of my having been there, and gave me, as he
supposed, a good deal of information about the colony of New
Zealand and the province of Canterbury. He talked well and fluently,
and I listened very patientl)'. When he had exhausted the subject,
I remarked, " You are quite right, sir, in what you say of Canter
bury, its climtate, its soU, and its people. I have lately visited it,
and I hope to live to return to it. It has unquestionably a prosperous
future before it." " What," he exclaimed, " do you seriously mean to
say that you have been in New Zealand and visited Canterbury ?
Have you seen Mount Torlesse ? It was caUed after me ; my name
is Torlesse." The same old gentleman pointed out the Bishop of St. David's,
and said, " I have not seen Thirlwall (the bishop) since he and I
were undergraduates toge'ther. I will tell you an anecdote about him.
When he was undeirgoing an examination as a youngster, he was
asked to define ' happiness.' Promptly responding, he wrote down
' Freedom from payne (pain),' spelling , it with a ' y ' and an ' e ' at
the end of it. Now the examiner's name was Payne, and he not
appreciating the liberty thus taken with his name, rebuked the young
man for his levity."

CHAPTER XIII.
New Zealand — Nelson — Overland Trip to Christchurch.
Once again in Australia, I was all anxiety to hurry over to New
Zealand. Two years and a-half had elapsed since my last visit.
Meanwhile a station had been formed. I took passage in the brig
Spray, about leaving for Nelson and Lyttelton.
Arrived at Nelson, I -was introduced to Mr. Duppa, a station
owner in the southern part of the Province of Nelson. He was
about setting out for his station, and willingly agreed to take me
with him on condition that I led the pack-horse, did the cooking, and
made myself generally useful, and particularly agreeable. Ready in
those days to undertake anything, never doubting my capabilities,
although inexperienced as a cook, I unhesitatingly took the biUet,
and patiently awaited the convenience and pleasure of my newly-
adopted boss.
When all seemed ready for a start, our departure was postponed
for a day through the stupidity of the baker, who had ignored instruc
tions by baking round loaves instead of flat ones. That remedied,
we piled up on our pack-horse a very liberal supply of things good
for food, and of many other things thought by Mr. Duppa essential
to the comfort of an overlander. AVe were indeed well provided.
We had potted meats and jams, bread, butter, and bacon ; wax
candles, and a great variety of other things too numerous to specify,
which, with the further addition of cork beds, and blankets, piled up
on the back of the pack-horse, loomed large, and made up an outline
which, seen afar off, must have closely resembled a camel heavily
burdened. The first day's journey was short, but not wholly uneventful.
The mare handed over to me to ride was a cross-bred brute, born,
bred and broken for the express purpose of being put between the
shafts of a spring cart. The animal that was degraded into a pack-
horse was, on the contrary, well-bred, well broken, and intended by
nature to be ridden on such a journey ; but for some good reason
I was not to be put upon her.

87
Arriving after sundown at our destination, a dog rushed out,
and barking furiously, caused the pack-horse to plunge, kick, and
buck, with such violence that I could no longer hold on to the
leading rein. Away w-ent horse ; away went swag, pots, pans and
jams, bread, butter and bacon, beds, blankets and bundles, north,
south, east and west ; and I, in the midst of this terrible confusion,
trying to look as if it had been no fault of mine.
The country through which w-e passed on the following day was
exceedingly poor. Hills, nothing but hills, here, there and every
where. The high hills utterly without grass, and the low hills for
the most part covered with scrub, ti-tree and fern. Since that day I
have seen and ridden through much poor country, but I have not yet
seen anything, north or south, much poorer than that through which
we then passed. At the end of this day's journey we seemed to be
entering a country which, although narrow, shallow, and broken,
yielded some grass, and apparently of the right sort. I refer now to
the high country -watered by the rivers Wairau, Clarence, and
Acheron. On making ready for a start on the following morning, my boss
reminded me that henceforth my duties" would commence in earnest,
as we were now leaving the last hut in the line of march, and would
have to camp out until we reached his station.
My companion was an exceedingly accomplished man, in more
respects than one, was not over diffident, and did not hesitate at times
to assert his superiority before me. He had a conviction not easily
shaken, that if he knew how to do one thing better than another, it
was how to pUe up and strap baggage on a pack-horse after such a
fashion that nothing could by possibility shift or fall off. ¦ The final
touch was made when he bound over all a long leathern strap. But
notwithstanding all this careful and artistic handling of the said-to-be
essential leathern strap, things would every now and then wriggle about,
shift, and faU off" ; and I, having no responsibUity in connection with
the packing, did not seem much put out by the calamity. I some
times could not help teUing my gifted companion, seeing that he was
so independent of my aid, that as I was a lazy man this idiosyncracy
of his suited me completely, and that so long as he was in a mood to
do all the work, he and I were certain not to disagree. One
morning, when he was in the midst of this really formidable business
of pUing up pots and pans, butter and bacon, he had suffered his eye

to wander from the bread-bag, thrown down at the hut door — a fatal
mistake, as some exceedingly domesticated pigs, with civUised tastes,
were doing their best to lighten our load and spoil the look of our
conveniently-shaped loaves. As we were now entering the wUder
ness and would have to depend wholly on our own resources, for
some days at least, we were not well pleased at the liberty thus taken
with our supplies.
Our track now lay through the country watered by the river
Wairau, which in the short distance of a few miles had to be crossed
and re-crossed upwards of twenty times. Crossing these streams was a
serious business with me, owing to my having to lead the pack-horse
through them. That wa-s one of the few things that my companion
cared not to undertake. It would not indeed have been a very easy
matter for him to have done so, mounted as he was. He had
selected for his own riding the well-known Uttle horse, " Lamp
lighter," one of the smartest horses ever broken to saddle. Mounted
on this steed, he was something to look at, and felt quite at home
in splashing through the rivers, as though the possibility of danger
in crossing them had never occurred to him. I followed my leader,
endeavouring to make the best of the beast that had fallen to my
lot. The crossing of New Zealand rivers, when swollen, is always a
serious business. Cautious men think twice, sometimes thrice, before
plunging into them ; but of course there are occasions when a man
must cross them, and to do so -with the least possible risk to himself
is his duty. My companion, I think, in connection with rivers
deserved to be spoken of as a cautious man. On approaching a
river he would puU up his horse, fit on a life belt, pull off his coat,
and enter the stream, piloting himself over with great judgment. It
was my business to follow hin;, and I did — It was part of my agree
ment, " it was in the bond." AVhen I innocentiy asked whether all
these precautions and preparations w-ere necessary, I was told that it
was well to be on the safe side ; that men had been drowned in less
formidable streams, and that no wise man travelled through that
country without first providing himself with a life-belt. The not
putting upon me the necessity of burdening myself with a life-belt
might be regarded by some as a great advantage to me, inasmuch as
I had already about as much to carr)- and see to as I could well
manage. I had the pack-horse to lead, a hunting-whip between my
teeth, and two tent-poles to carry. I began now to realise that I was

89
having my share of the work, some of the responsibility, and nearly
all of the danger.
Not a bad story, in which my companion figured as one of the
.principals, and where he showed his wisdom, was told to me in those
old days. Accompanied by a youngster, a cadet at his sheep station,
he was on his way to Christchurch, when they found themselves on
the bank of a flooded river. The youngster, in his ignorance, could
see no danger in crossing the stream, and was quite ready to plunge
in. The man of many summers, seasoned by experience ih New
Zealand, took just one look at the river, and wisely turned away from
it, remarking, that to cross it in that state was running a considerable
risk. The cadet considering it an unmanly thing to turn away from
what seemed to him not very dangerous, urged his companion again
and again to cross it But the boss at last losing all patience, replied,
" Go you into the river if you please ; play the fool if it suits you.
I have no objection to your running a risk. There are any number
of your sort periodicaUy arriving from the Old Country, but there is
only one George Duppa in the world, and I am he."
My companion was rightly regarded by those who knew him
well, as a clever man, and of considerable experience in New Zealand
as a settler. In enterprise and energy he had few superiors ; in cul
tivation it may be said of him that he was above the average of his
fellow-colonists. He was quite qualified to have taken an active and
leading part in public and political life, but such a life or recreation
had no attraction for him. He frankly confessed that his one object
in coming out to New Zealand was to make money ; and he beUeved
that he was on the road to fortune. Succeeding in realising that,
New Zealand would know him no more. Not a great while after this
he succeeded in selling his property for a considerable sum, left the
colony, and is not very likely to return to it.
When in a mood to be entertaining and instructive, he could
play the role with success. In addition to his other gifts, he was
musical ; could sing weU. I have already said that there was litde
that he could not do in using his hands, nothing indeed that he
would not make an attempt to do, — from tethering a, horse to a
tussock of grass to the saiUng of a yacht; and I am not sure that he
did not pride himself quite as much on account of the former as of
the latter accomplishment. He was a splendid horseman, a light
weight, and could ride a race in finished Style. A man so experienced

90
and so accomplished, a master of all details connected with over-
landing, so determined to have his own way in everything, rather suited
me ; but I think it produced in. me a feeling of diffidence, which at
times bordered on the ludicrous. On one occasion, when at the
end of a long day's ride, we came up with an old station hut, and
the remains of a kitchen garden, I found, to my astonishment
and delight, full-grown cabbages fit for cooking. I at once made up
my mind to have one for supper. I cut it, trimmed it, and was
about to put it into a pot, when I was pulled up by the preliminary
difficulty of not knowing whether I ought to put it into hot or cold
water. I so dreaded the being laughed at for my inexperience and
ignorance of things that all men were supposed to know, that I was
literally afraid to ask my superior in all knowledge — my accomplished
companion — what ought to be done. I asked no questions. I
cooked the cabbage, and was complimented on the result. I then
confessed my difficulty, admitting that the dread of being laughed at
for my ignorance had prevented my asking to be enlightened. In
reply, this master of many accomplishments had to confess that if I
had asked him he could not have told me. I was cured of my
idolatry. The image that I had unwisely set up had tumbled to
pieces. I no longer looked upon Mr. Duppa as knowing all things.

CHAPTER XIV.
Second Visit to the South — Favourably Impressed — Resolved to Settle in the
Country — Return to Australia— Voyage back to Timaru with Family.
On arriving in Christchurch, I quickly made arrangements to go
South to visit the station. At this date (1857) there was a stream of
settlers travelling up and down the great south road. On this my
second trip, I had the good luck to fall in with travelling companions,
experienced and entertaining.
The country -was then occupied, in a squatter's sense, but it was
little better than a wilderness. I well remember one of my com
panions, Mr. Alexander Lean, laughingly alluding to the time when
our great-grandchUdren, a hundred years thence, would be steaming
over the plains, lolling back in a comfortable railway carriage, and
wondering what sort of men their great-grandfathers could have been
to have lived and laboured contentedly in a land without such a con
venient means of getting about the country. And all this great
change, be it observed, has been brought about in twenty years, or
less. All honour to the man or men -who, by the touch of a
magician's wand, so to speak, have thus, in so remarkable a manner,
anticipated progress and precipitated the province into a populous
and thriving settlement.
My stay at the station was short, but long enough to enable
me to make up my mind that a man might do a worse thing than
make a home in Canterbury. The climate seemed to suit me, and
the prospects of squatters were encouraging.
Hurrying back to Australia, I quickly made arrangements to
return to Canterbury, and I think I can sincerel)'_say that I have
never regretted taking the important step.
When we left Australia for England, Ave could boast of only two
children, both boys ; whilst in England we had added one to the
number, a girl ; and before leaving Australia for Canterbury, we were
again blessed with a girl. A fair number to start with in our new
home. My friends in Australia could hardly make up their minds to
beUeve that I was acting prudently in leaving the old colony to

92
establish myself in the new. The state of native affairs at that time
to some extent accounted for — and to some extent justified — their
disinclination to think well of New Zealand. But they were very ill-
informed as to the difference between the North and the South Islands.
All, indeed, that they knew of New Zealand was that it was peopled
by a waj-like and disaffected race of savages ; that one island was
perilously near to the other, and therefore dangerous to live in. My
old brother in Australia, of whom I have written at some length,
especially lamented over my want of judgment in leaving the land of
my birth for a land of cannibals, and was very much inclined to regard
me as a lost sheep in the wilderness; but quite ready, he said, should
I turn up again after a bitter experience, to welcome me back to the
pastures that I was blindly straying from.
Taking passage in the brig Spray, we embarked, and after a
somewhat tedious passage, found ourselves at Lyttelton, and finally,]
after battling with foul winds, strong and protracted, we were landed
at Timaru. I carried on shore the baby, not caring to trust her to'
the rough embrace of a sailor. ,
Timaru, at that early date, consisted of a public-house, a wooB
store, and the residence of Captain Cain, the first man in business!
who had pitched his tent and established himself on the beach. The
ladies of the party and the children were hospitably received by him
for the night, the rest of us finding shelter in the " Royal Hotel."
On the evening of the day following our landing, we reached the
station. The house, so long in progress, was not yet finished, and
the winter (May) setting in, littie more was done towards its complel
tion before the spring foUow-ing. 1
The first impression formed of the country to -which we haj
come was favourable. The view, looking westward, was magnificent:!
In the foreground were plains and downs, and low hills, clothed and
crowned jvith every variety of forest trees, and thick with an under
growth of beautiful shrubs. In the far distance, mountains, at that
time of the year beginning to be coated with snow, and presenting an
outiine unsurpassed in beauty and diversity by any Alpine view north
or south in the great chain of snow)- mountains in the Middle Island.
Twenty-five years or more have passed since that first impression was
formed, but I am not yet in a mood to admit that I spoke hastily
when I described it as lovely and not to be surpassed. The main
features of the picture are still there, unchanged ; the bold oudines

93
as grand as when we first looked upon them ; but the filling in and
colouring — the land subdivided, cultivated, and laid down to English
grasses — the bright and beautiful gardens everywhere around — add a
new and a softer beauty to the view. Thus far only is any change
noticeable : what was beautiful in 1S54 is only more beautiful in 1884.
Some years after leaving this spot, I revisited it, accompanied by one
of my younger daughters. It was the first time that she had been
there. On telling her that she was approaching the house where the
fan-lily had for years lived, and where she was born, she exclaimed,
" Oh, father, how could you have ever left such a spot ?"
Du];ing that first winter we were rather crowded, but early in the
following summer, on entering into possession of our new house, we
considered ourselves well off. The life that we led was by no means
dull or lonely ; we were a large family, and all fully occupied.
I think I have nothing of startling interest relating to family
occurrences to chronicle until the 27th day of September, 1859. On
that day of days I was blessed with twin daughters. I despair of
conveying to those who have not been so abundantly blessed anything
approaching to a definite notion of my sensations on the occasion.
And to those who have been singled out by Providence for double
honours — made the recipients of such a huge share of good luck — it
is, of course, altogether unnecessary to say one word. When the
great fact was announced to me by the maternal grandmother, I threw
up my hat and caUed for three cheers for the twins, saying "The
more the merrier in this fertile land." " Oh, yes," said she, " that
is just like a man's speech ; but I want to know who is to nurse two
babies ? Preparation was made for one only, and now we are at our
wit's end to know what to do with the second chUd. It is quite too
much happiness."
Amongst others to whom I sent early notice of this " double
event," was our old friend, skipper Scott, of the brig ^ray. He was
at the time in Lyttelton harbour. On his receiving the important
announcement, he seems to have been beside himself with joyi On
writing his congratulations, he said that he had always been made
happy on learning that I was doing " well," but that he had no words
at command to express his sensations of delight at hearing that I had
now done " doubly well."
Only one inconvenience resulted from our great good luck in
being thus doubly blessed, and that was that the mother, whenever

94
she read in the newspapers an announcement of "twins," insisted
upon my taking means to find out whether the parents were in a
position to support them. In the height of my fever of happiness, I
very much shocked an old lady by saying that I knew of but one
drawback to so much happiness, and that was that ever afterwards
single additions to one's family seemed rather a poor affair.

CHAPTER XV.
Cracroft Wilson — In New Zealand and India.
Turning over old letters which my wife has thought fit to preserve, I
find one in which I speak of having again met Cracroft 'Wilson,
whom I had last seen at Newcastle, in New South Wales. I was in
troduced to him in 1854, in Sydney. He had just arrived from India,
having chartered the ship Akbar to convey sheep, cattle, and horses
to Canterbury, in which highly-favoured land, as he also spoke of it,
he had made up his mind to become a squatter and a settler. When
he was told that I also was about to ship stock to Canterbury, and
further, that I had selected, purchased, and taken delivery of sheep of a
superior breed, he implored me to hand them over to him, stating
that he knew nothing of sheep or where to get them ; that he was a
stranger, and had no desire to be taken in. Knowing well where to
get another lot of equal quality, I did what he asked of me.
Having settled this matter to his satisfaction, he walked me off
to look at his imported horse "Wanderer." In looking him over,
one could not fail to be struck with his great strength — a quality not
often possessed by the class of Arab usually introduced into the
colonies. He introduced into the land a variety of animals — donkeys
included, causing the newspapers to speak of his coUection as a
modern '' Noah's Ark." Mr. Wilson's experience and knowledge of
horses was considerable. That, I think, soon got to be generally
admitted. But he knew less of cattle and sheep, and in purchasing
these was not unwilling to rely upon the judgment of men more expe
rienced than himself When in a mood to tease him, and he was in
a mood to stand bantering, I often used to teU him that the popular
notion of him as a judge of horses was, that he could be trusted in
the dark to pronounce on the points of a horse bred by another, but
that he could see no faults — was as blind as a bat — in respect to
horses bred by himself I once came upon him in the streets of
WeUington, in the midst of a small crowd composed of men from all
parts of New Zealand, holding forth on the merits of horses bred by
him at Cashmere (Canterbury). When he caught sight of me, he
said to the interested group, " Ask this fellow to whom he applies

96
when he wants a first-class horse.'' My reply was, " Gentlemen, I
once bought a horse of Cracroft Wilson ; he was a remarkably fine
animal, the very best that he ever owned ; but he was bred in
Australia.'' The horse stUl lives, now in his twenty-seventh year.
On my return to Canterbury in 1857, this enterprising colonist
was absent in India. We next met in 1859, in which year he returned
to New Zealand. Mr. Wilson had, by a slice of good luck, secured
a run on the Rangitata river, and had largely invested in Crown lands
situated at the foot of the Peninsular hills. This freehold now forms
the estate of Cashmere. From the day that he first seriously con
sidered a!nd settled the question of becoming a settler in Canterbury,
his ambition, often and openly acknowledged, -was to put together a
property worthy of being entailed on his eldest son. With this deter
mination uppermost in his mind and dominating him, never aban
doned in bad times or good times, he laboured incessantly with hands
and head. What the work of reclaiming the swamp, now drained
and cultivated, cost hirn, I never cared to ask him, and it never
pleased him to tell me. When visiting him, it was an every day's
business to accompany him in his walks or rides through the property,
riding when it was possible, walking where a horse could not be safely
taken. The system adopted by him in dealing with it was not the
usual mode- of treating swamps- certainly not the most economical. <
He was not content to drain them, and allow years to pass before
fitting them for the plough. He made up his mind that what would
certainly have to be done sooner or later should be done at once, and
by himself He never tired of the great work, and before he died, he
had the satisfaction of looking upon its completion. A few days only
before his death, he was to be seen pointing out to his eldest son,
just arrived from England, all that had been done — his life's work.
His large undertakings and improvements at Cashmere, and in
other parts of the province, afforded full occupation to himself and
his family, and to an army of labouring men. Amongst these was to
be seen a sprinkling of Asiatics, introduced into the land at his own
expense. Many of these men were certainly not equal to their
European fellow-labourers in bodily strength or endurance. A long
experience of them in India had taught him the art of managing
them, and they on their part seemed always ready to exliibit a
demonstrative acquiescence in his expressed wishes. Some of these
men, although leaving his employment to start life on their own

97
account, seemed to me never to quite realize that they had ceased to
belong to Cashmere ; looking — and not in vain — for assistance and
employment to their old master, who, whUst finding th'em work, had
often to shut his eyes to their capricious and exacting ways. I
remember an occurrence illustrating plainly enough the relation
that got to be established between master and man — European and
Asiatic. On the opposite bank of that part of the river Heathcote
bounding the Cashmere estate, was squatted an Asiatic. Strolling
one day with Mr. Wilson along the banks of the river, we came in sight
of the man's hut, and shortly after of the proprietor. The European at
once opened fire in Hindostani, receiving back shot for shot. This
warfare of words lasted some time, when the Asiatic delivered a
broadside which fairly overpowered his old master. I asked what it
all meant, none the less curious to be enlightened on observing that
my friend seemed tickled beyond measure at the man's last effort.
"TeU me," I said, " what, in plain English, it aU means." "Well,
friend," said he, " you must know that this fellow, who has just been
posing as a persecuted man, has got a lease of two acres of land
surrounding his hut. Observe the shallow stream at our feet ; it is
the only boundary between us. On these two acres he is supposed
to graze a team of working bullocks ; but as a matter of course, they
are always grazing on my side of the river, trespassing on my land,
and thriving, as you may observe, on my grass. When I haUed him,
reproaching him with his rascality in thus trespassing and with not
having the decency to first ask my permission, he came out with the
foUowing, by way of explanation and defence : ' Your exceUency
reproaches his slave with greediness and ingratitude, with dishonesty
and impudence in appropriating what does not belong to him — in
suffering his poor beasts to wander at wiU over your exceUency's grass J
but I ask your exceUency if your excellency's slave's buUocks are not
to graze on your excellency's grass, upon whose grass are your excel
lency's slave's bullocks to graze ?' "
The chUdren of these Asiatics were very precocious, soon
becoming useful, and too soon assuming the airs and importance of
their full-grown European associates. I happened to be present one
day when the blacksmith employed on the farm came up to the
house to make a complaint of the insolence of one of these Asiatic
sprouts. The accused was a small boy of about eight years of age,
charged by a man old enough to be his grandfather, with insolence

98
and bad language. Whilst the man was making his statement, the
boy stood with folded arms and head erect, facing his accuser, and
more than ready to justify his insolence. The blacksmith stated that
the urchin had insulted him, had used bad language, and that when
ever he came to deliver a message he never missed the opportunity
of swearing at him. The boy, puUing him up sharply, exclaimed,
" That's a lie ! and it is not the first that you have told in speaking of
me.'' The judge here thought fit to interfere, threatening severe
punishment and instant dismissal if he were not more careful to
conduct himself properly and keep a civil tongue in his head. But
the youth was in no mood to humble himself, and with flashing eye
and fluent tongue, told his master to do as he pleased about sending
him away, but that if he expected him, boy as he was, to stand the
abuse and ill-treatment of a fellow like that (pointing at the black
smith), he was mistaken ; finishing up with saying, " I am ready to go
at any moment — to-day — now ; pay me my wages and let me go, the
sooner the better." He was, however, not discharged, the reason for
keeping him on being that it would be a little difficult to find anyone
in many respects' equal to him ; and I believe I am right in adding
that he remained at Cashmere for many a year afterwards.
I have spoken of his unquestioned judgment in the matter of
horse-flesh. I have yet to speak of his craze — his passion — for
driving four-in-hand. Often have I sat by his side on the dri-ving-box,
looking on with interest at his experiments in yoking up horses not
very well broken to harness. There was always a touch of uncer
tainty as to their going at all. A man trying experiments with aE
sorts of horses was bound to come to grief sometimes. Horses
would throw themselves down, or refuse to puU off, or would rear up
and cause a confusion and entanglement that it would take a
European and a brace of Asiatics to remedy. Sometimes he would
succeed in persuading one of the fair sex with steady nerves to sit up
by his side, but ordinarily it was my privilege to run all risks. He
had lots of nerve, and a good strong wrist and arm, enabling him to
control a team, and was ambitious of being regarded as a first-class.
whip. For many years I used to take a seat by his side on the box in
driving to the Christchurch races. I somehow drifted into the
position of judge, doing duty in that capacity for five or six years.
The only reasons that I could ever assign for my nomination to the

99
responsible office were, that I was supposed to know nothing of a
horse, and that I was never known to have made a bet in my life.
Sitting by his side on one of these occasions, he forced the reins into
my hands, saying, " Here, take hold, and I will give you a lesson in
driving." Humouring him, I took the reins. On giving them up to'
him again, I said, "There, take back your reins ; I now consider that
there is nothing that Cracroft Wilson can do that I am not equal to.
Henceforth be it known to all men that I have been taught and
trained by the horsiest of Englishmen, and hold a license from
Cracroft WUson to upset with impunity all who are weak enough to
trust their precious lives to my driving."
Handing over his horse one night to a livery-stable keeper, he
said, " Now, if you love me, take care of my horse." " 'Well," said
the man addressed, " I don't know as to loving you, but I do love a
horse, and so make up your mind that he will be taken care of"
He could hold his own in reply fairly well when a smart thing,
bordering on the impertinent, was said to him. One day, after a sale
of horses by auction held at Cashmere, and attended by a large
number of people from Christchurch, he strode up to a cluster of
men being entertained at luncheon, and said, " Gentlemen, I con
gratulate you upon your having acquired to-day some very valuable
property at a very moderate figure. I think, at any rate, you have
done a good day's work. As my day's work is only half done, you
will forgive me for seeming to be in such a hurry to leave you, but I
have engagements that necessitate my absence. I am off to a road
board meeting ; and in the interest of the country, I have to attend a
sitting of the Provincial CouncU ; and I have, I think, promised to
visit the gaol on my way home." " Stop, sir," said a privileged man,
" be very careful that you don't make a blunder in the order of your
visits ; don't caU first at the gaol, because, you see, in the interest of
the country, they might keep you there." Shaking his fist in the face
of the speaker, he said, " Master P  , you compel me to say that
you are cutting your chaff with a very keen blade this morning."
It would not be straying a hair's-breadth over the line of strict
truth to say of this enterprising man that he worked as hard with
hands and head as any man who ever left England to become a
colonist. He would try his hand at any sort of work going on — in
the water as readUy as on dry land. When he had a party of men
working up to their waists in water and slush, he would often seize

hold of the long-bladed knife used for the putpose and take a turn at
the cutting-out business. Thus employed, on one occasion, he slipped
off a plank into the boggy slough, and had great difficulty in struggling
out on to terra firma, shouting out vociferously, " Oh, for oceans of
water, that I might swim ashore !" a feat not easy of accomplishment,
floundering about as he was in a puddle of the consistency of
porridge. His bold and reckless riding sometimes ended dismally enough.
With little Rumchurra at his heels, he was doing his very best one
day to head a beast that seemed as determined as his master to have
his own way. The hunted beast tearing along a narrow road, baited
and harassed on both flanks, suddenly stopped — there was a coUision;
— master, man, and beast licked the dust. Master and man were
picked up alive, but the poor beast gave no more trouble — the shoot!
had killed him. i
It is well known to the world that Cracroft Wilson spent nearljl
half his life in India. He left England little more than a boy in
years — when only twenty years of age — and I believe I am right ifi
saying that from the day of his arrival in India to the time of his first
appearance in New Zealand, twenty-six years, he had never for any
considerable time been absent from his duties, either on sick-leave or
on " private affairs." The extended leave of absence that he at last
obtained in 1854, and which men usuaUy spend in Europe, he spent
in Canterbury, where he was to be seen hard at work early and lat^
His well-spent holiday over, he returned to his post in India, intencf
ing, on the completion of his term of office as judge, to come back *
Canterbury and live the life of a settler.
We next hear of him in the very thick of the muting
actively engaged, with many another seasoned civil servant of Indi^'
in performing his share in an attempt to beat out the fire that with
lightning speed was blazing through the land. What he did in India, :
and what was thought of it by men in authority, wiU be recorded
later on in these pages.
It was a matter of surprise to his friends in England and in the
colony, that before settiing down for life in New Zealand, he had not
taken a trip to England. He apparentiy preferred to be in the midst
of his famUy, and hard at work in founding a home in Canterbury. His
interest in the prosecution and progress of that work never slackened;
and I can well remember his once saying to me, when darkn|s

had put an end to his work for the day, that a colonist ought to be
endowed with three lives of ordinary length to enable him to do all
that his enterprising spirit urged him to undertake. When he made
that speech, I told him that he was littie better than a heathen for
not striving to realise that there was a world in the future even better
than this — a world that Christian men in their best moods longed for.
Years after this, when I began to be conscious that I was growing old,
I got to understand that a man might weU long to live beyond the
aUotted " three score years and ten," and I confessed to him that I
was growing as heathenish as himself in desiring to live a long life in
this beautiful and busy world. When urged to give up work and go
to England for rest and recreation, he invariably replied, " Who is to
do my work in my absence ?"
This long postponement of a trip to England made it somewhat
difficult for his friends, in after years, to force the Imperial authorities
into recognising his claims to a suitable reward for his many and
important services during the great mutiny in India. The Governor-
General, who, in his despatch, had given him premier place in a long
Ust of men deserving well of their country, had gone to his long
home. Compared with him, there was no one in authority as enthu
siastically interested in seeing justice and honour done to this man
of whom it had been said in the despatch referred to, that he had
" saved more European lives than any other man in India." But his
reward came at last, and the announcement caused gratification to his
friends. For myself, I often felt inclined to tell him that no further
reward within the power of Ministers to recommend, or of Her
Majesty to bestow, -could compare with the reward already bestowed
upon him by the highest authority in India, stamped, as it had been,
with the approval of his friends and fellow-colonists.
The interest that I fook in this strong man, who had performed
so many and great services out of New Zealand, ripenefl ere long into
an attachment — an emotional friendship that never received a check
to the end of his life on earth.
He often paid flying visits to his sheep-station on the Rangitata,'
and would occasionally pay us a short visit, arriving late and leaving
early. Those who knew him need not to be told that he was
passionately fond of music, or that he was a flute-player. He was
never happier than when he found himself in a house where one of
the inmates could play upon the piano fairly weU, and was wUling to

accompany him. In our house, he was very much humoured in this
respect by my wife, who was always ready to play for him to his heart's
content. Not satisfied with warbling late into the night, he would,
when not bound to leave on the following day, put in an appeal not to
be deserted, as he caUed it. This meant a long day of music, and
nothing else. When the wife reminded him that a mother of smaU
children had much to do in the morning in looking after them, and
that it was really necessary to have an interview with the cook if he
wanted dinner, he would impatiently exclaim, " 'Who cares for dinner ?
Let us, just try over that adagio movement once more; it is very
beautiful, and worth all the dinners in the world."
On one of these trips he met with a very serious accident, having
been thrown from his horse. Our shepherd came galloping up to
where I was, and reported that he had come upon Mr. WUson lying
on the ground disabled, and apparently very much injured. Hurrying
up to him, I found him looking as though he was in great suffering,.
very faint, and with difficulty succeeding in making me understand
how it had all come about. This much, however, I gathered from
his narrative. In an attempt to make a short cut across the plains,;]
he had come upon a part of the creek not used as a crossing-place.
The horse refusing to face it, he drew back, put spurs into him and
rushed him at it. The horse excitedly cleared it in great style, but in
landing, slipped up and roUed over his rider. Holding on to the
reins, he got mixed up with the horse's hind legs and received a
severe kick full on his chest. He could hardly tell, he said, to what;
extent he was injured, but he admitted that he could neither walk!
nor ride. However much he may have been suffering at the time,j
there was stiU left in him life and strength enough to admit of his;
gasping out the foUowing: " Ah ! — my dear — fellow — I am — really-
injured — and if I — had — been — a poor — mis-e-r-able — d  1 of—
an Aus-tra-li-an — Uke you — I should never — have Uved — to tell— the
story !" Getting him home, we put him into a bed, when he im
plored me not to send for a doctor to pull him about, as he called it;
that although he was much hurt and in great pain, he knew enough
of the " conjectural " art generaUy to know what sort of treatment
he needed ; that all that he wanted was good nursing, and that he
would suff'er no one to touch him but myself; that the fallacies of the
faculty were many; and that, even in the interest of humanity, he was
in no mood to be experimented upon. Of course, I obeyed him to

I03
the letter, and as strictly refrained from doing anything that was
disagreeable to him. At length he considered himself fit to be driven
over to his station.
He always maintained that I deserved to be ranked amongst the
best of nurses ; for that in dealing with a man sick and sore, bruised
and battered, I had no will of my own, having always and at once,
without questioning the wisdom of his will, done exactly what he
wished to have done.
Henceforth, he and I were much together. I seldom, if ever,
visited Christchurch that he did not hunt me up and insist upon my
making Cashmere my home ; and I never left him without promising
not to let a long time pass by without paying him another visit. When
he visited us he would rush into the house, saying, " Here I am,
friend ; how are you ? how's the wife ? I can only stay till to-morrow
morning ; I must be off" at daylight, back at my station to breakfast,
and at the top of Mount Herbert on the Peninsular hills on the day
after, to meet a surveyor who has agreed to be there to point out the
south-west boundary of my pre-emptive right. Is the piano in tune ?
Come along, let us have some music." All the above in a breath. •
When infants, monopolising the time and attention of mothers, inter
fered with music, he frowned disapproval.
He often expressed concern at my rapidly-increasing famUy, shaking
his head sorrowfully when I reported to him the speech of a man
whose family bid fair to outnumber mine. This man, so abundantly
blessed, and with such an unlimited faith in the resources and
absorbent capabilities of the colony, said, in speaking of his own
rapidly-increasing family, " Well, after I had five or six children I
began to ask myself what on earth was to become of them all ; but
when the number went on increasing beyond that, I made up my
mind that it was simply nonsense for me to concern n^self any more
in the matter, as obviously it had at last become a question for the
parish to take into their consideration."
It is weU known that Mr. Wilson entered political life in New-
Zealand, having for some years sat as a representative in the General
Assembly. He also for many years was to be seen and heard in the
Provincial Council.
The line that he took in politics would, I suppose be called
Conservative. I think he was more frequently found supporting a
ministry than plotting to supplant one. But he was too independent.

104
too little used to the working of representative institutions, with its
system of compromises and utter lack of system in all else, ever to
become a prominently successful party man. Give him a province
of Asiatics to rule over, and he would have acquitted himself to the
satisfaction of the lovers of order, and to the benefit of the ruled ;
but yoke him up with men as independent as himself, with in-
capables, as he would call them — half-hearted men, who had not the
courage of their opinions, — and he would, sooner or later, kick over
the traces, and be the cause of smashing the ministerial drag into
littie bits.
Whilst in the Assembly, he made the bold suggestion of bring
ing down a regiment of Ghoorkas, to settle Native disturbances in the
North Island ; but his suggestion was not adopted. He made more
than one attempt to regulate the relation of master and servant,
but neither General Assembly nor Provincial Council would have
legislation on that delicate question at the instance of anyone. In
this attempt to legislate upon this question, he was roughly ridiculed
by the Punch of the day, — told that John Hodge, British labourer,
and colonial Democrat was best left to his own instincts, and that
public opinion was quite strong enough to keep in check any
arbitrary tendencies lurking in the dispositions of masters.
He and I had many a friendy encounter and controversy on
some of the many questions coming before the Assembly and the
Provincial Council ; and he certainly did not think over much of
my judgment, its clearness or its strength, for faUing to see things as
he did ; but I loved him none the less for his speaking sorrowfully
of the workings of what he chose to call my " limited intellect."
When I spoke to him of my independence, of my duty to my
constituents and to myself in exercising my own judgment upon
questions submitted to the House, and sometimes grew hot and
angry in expressing my determination not to be dictated to or con
trolled even by him, he used to think of me as one to be pitied, for
persisting to walk by a dim uncertain light, when I had always the
opportunity of being guided by his ripe experience and better
wisdom. He was very jealous of my drifting away from him, and taking
pleasure in the political embraces of men of objectionable views, as
he spoke of them ; and sometimes, to tease him, I would suffer him
to believe that I was very far gone in a wrong direction. Seeing me ;

105
in close consultation with one of his political opponents, he would
give an audible sigh, as though he had lost all faith in all men ; and
when I came back to my seat beside him, he would warn me to
beware of that man, for that he knew no good of him, and had reason
to speak of him as one of the biggest intriguers in Parliament.
Thus it will be seen that we sometimes differed on political questions ;
but we agreed to differ, and were always ready to regret that one pair
of spectales did not suffice for both.
I have now come to nearly the last page of my written Recol
lections of my friend Cracroft Wilson's career in New Zealand. It
may, I think, be fairly said of him that he was no ordinary man,
and further, that he did his share of hard work in the world.
If it 'be said of him that he was open to the charge of self asser
tion, of emphasising a little too strongly his many services, talked
vaingloriously of his successful dealing with the Thugs, and the part
that he played in lending a hand to stamp out mutiny and rebellion,
let it not be forgotten that when clear heads, stout hearts, and strong
wUls were essential to the salvation of India, that the highest
authority in the land spoke of his services with approval and pride.
Sir John Kaye, in his " Histoiy of the Sepoy War," writes thus of
him : — " At Moradabad the main body of the 29th Sepoy Regiment
-was posted, and neither their own officers nor the chief civilians
in the district showed any sign of want of confidence in them.
There was fortunately then at the station a high civil functionary, of
immense energy and courage, a man equal to any emergency and
capable of any act of daring. Mr. Cracroft Wilson was judge of
Moradabad. In that capacity he had no official control over ex-
executive details. But he had large experience of that part of the
country ; he was highly respected by the Native inhabitants of all
classes ; and it was with no undue appreciation of his own influence
and capacity for good that he applied to the Lieutetoant-Governor to
enlarge his powers. The application was promptly granted, and
Wilson began his work with characteristic resolution and sagacity.
" The 29th was a regiment of good repute, and it was believed
that by firm and judicious management it might be kept true to its
aUegiance. When news of our disasters at Meerut came in, WUson,
with the consent of the military authorities, went into the Sepoy
lines and conversed freely with the Native officers and privates,
telUng them that their comrades had been misled by lying reports.

io6
and that to follow the noxious example of these misguided men
would be to bring ruin upon themselves. Again and again he went
among them, with reassuring words.''
In speaking of Mr. Wilson's again riding towards the lines and
passing in front of the artillery, he writes thus of him : — " The
artillerymen, whose treachery had been known from the first, laid
their guns and lit their port-fires. Wilson's clear blue eyes calmly
confronted the murderous design. Without a sign of fear on his
face, he rode towards the guns, not from them, and waved his hat as
a challenge to the gunners. Abashed and overawed by the bearing of
the intrepid Englishman, they slunk back, and Wilson was saved."
As a proof of the importance attached to Mr. Wilson's inter
ference with and influence over the Sepoys, it is stated that one of
the Nawabs recommended the immediate execution of Wilson Sahib
as a " great deed, equal to the destruction of half the Europeans in
the Presidency of Bengal." He was also spoken of by the Nawab as
"a great man, and cunning officer, who possessed magic in hiswords."
Lord Canning, the Governor-General of India, in referring to
the services of such men as Cracroft Wilson, writes thus : — " The
Government in the north-west Provinces of India retained its hold
of many chief points of the country. These were held single and
isolated in a sea of rebellion ; and that this was possible was due to-
the indomitable courage, devotion to duty, and fertility of resource
which has so marked the conduct of the officers of the civil service
of India throughout this terrible time. They have been -worthily
aided and rivalled by military officers on detached employ, and by
many gentlemen not connected with the Government ; but it is due
primarily to the officers of the civU service that the landmarks of
British authority throughout the districts of the north-west provinces
were not overborne in the flood.
" It is now my duty to recommend to the favourable considera
tion of Her Majesty's Government the following officers:— Mr. J.
Cracroft WUson, judge of Moradabad. I name this gentieman first
because he has the enviable distinction of having, by his own
obstinate energy and perseverance, saved more Christian lives than
any man in India. He did this at the repeatedly imminent risk of
his own life. He has since left the service of the Indian Govern
ment, and retired to New Zealand, whither I respectfully hope that
the favour of the Crown may foUo-w him."

I07
Sir John Kaye further writes: — "The Governor-General had
abundant faith in such men as Cracroft Wilson : faith in their courage,
their constancy, their capacity for command ; but most of all he
trusted them because they coveted responsibUity ;" adding, " It is
only from an innate sense of strength that this desire proceeds ; only
in obedience to the unerring voice of nature that strong men press
forward to grasp what weak men shrink from possessing."
It has been to me a labour of love to place on record thus much
relating to my lost friend. Those who knew him well, remembering his
chivahous deeds in India, those who were witnesses to the life that he
led in Canterbury, are not unwilling to admit his worth ; or, now that
he is gone from amongst us, to say aught else of him than that when
he died, an intelligent colonist, a useful public servant, and a brave-
hearted man was lost to New Zealand.

CHAPTER XVI.
Enter Public Life — Timaru Meeting — Superintendents of Provinces — FitzGerald
— Moorhouse — Bealey — RoUeston — Macandrew — -Williamson — Featherstone
— Nelson — Taranaki.
For the first few years of my life in Canterbury, I was incessantly
and exclusively occupied with superintending station work, taking no
active part in politics, colonial or provincial. In the year 1861, I
was tempted out of my retirement, and, a little unwiUingly, consented
to take my share in such matters.
The first time I found myself addressing an audience on a
public question, was at Timaru, at a meeting called to consider
the questions — political and financial — affecting the southern district
The inhabitants of that important division of the pro-vince (I speak
of the country lying between the rivers Rangitata and AVaitangi)
were beginning to believe, rightly or wrongly, that they were being
treated as outsiders, or step-children, who ought to be contented
¦B'ith a modicum of financial treatment.
The authorities living in the metropolis of the province, and at
that time mainly representative of Christchurch and its suburbs,
admitting that her youngest born child was a very promising off"-
shoot of the parent stock, could not help expressing surprise at the
bumptiousness of the new-born babe, and the nature and extent
of its demands.
The inhabitants of this southern El Dorado, believing that they
had a grievance, nursed it ; teUing the old parent, living in North
Canterbury, that if they did not treat the child of their old age with
a little more liberality in money matters, they would, in self-defence,
take steps under the " New Provinces Act,'' to form themselves into
a separate province.
Without any strong desires, or any very definite aims at the
outset of this movement, and certainly with no intention of taking a
prominent part in the proceedings at the proposed meeting, I, with
many others, signed the requisition, asking that a meeting should be
called ; and was somewhat taken by surprise at being asked to move
the first resolution. Before consenting, I talked the matter over and

I09
out with my neighbour and friend William Macdonald, regarding
him as well qualified to take a leading part in so important a matter.
He spoke diffidently, however, of his fitness for the particular work,
and in turn asked and pressed me to undertake the duty. FinaUy
I yielded to the expressed wish of the promoters of the meeting,
and moved a resolution.
The announcement of the coming meeting attracted attention
in Christchurch, and brought on to the ground His Honor the Super
intendent, William Sefton Moorhouse, who strove all he knew, before
the meeting, at the meeting, and after the meeting, to give a satis-
factpry explanation of the past, and undertook to use all legitimate
influence with the Provincial Council and his executive to do even
more than justice thenceforth to the claims of the south district.
He was patiently listened to, but of course all the enthusiasm
bestowed on speakers went in the direction of those expressing the
local grievance view.
At the conclusion of the meeting we adjourned to the Royal
Hotel, where the representatives of both sides of the question met,
ate, drank, and made merry; all agreeing that WUliam Sefton Moor
house was a right good fellow, and that it might be more his mis
fortune than his fault that he was unable as Superintendent of the
whole province to deal out a full measure of justice to the south.
All that took place subsequently in connection with this question
out of doors, and within the walls of Parliament, is matter of history,
an old, old story, and savouring too strongly of pure politics to be
lengthUy referred to in these pages.
What I desired to see established was a system under which a
substantial share of land revenue should be allotted and allocated by
Act of Parliament to the districts in which land from time to time
became alienated. A system based on that principle seemed to me
a sound one; and from first to last I fought for a recognition of that
principle : for nothing more and for nothing less, never desiring to see
the province of Canterbury reduced in area or the district of Timaru
formed into a separate province.
A friend of mine, not over well pleased at seeing me closely
aUying myself with the "Southern malcontents," as he chose to
speak of them, admitted that we had one grievance, but only one,
and that was that the harbour of Akaroa could not be cut off from
the Peninsula and removed to Timaru by an Act of Pariiament I

We were politely told some years after this, when Timaru was chafing
at the want of facilites in landing and shipping goods, that we were
one and all victims of the malady spoken of as " Timaru breakwater
on the brain."
The Canterbury Punch, as became him, made merry over this
political sou'wester and the men who were blown into notoriety by it,
honouring me with special notice by representing me in a cartoon hold
ing up a pair of scales evenly balanced, upon one of which was
inscribed " Timaru," and upon the other " Christchurch," and looking
as though I could not quite make up my mind to which scale to hang
on to. And again, in a subsequent number of the same paper I was
referred to. I at this time was representing Geraldine in the Provin
cial Council. " Geraldine, he is coming, oh dear !
Geraldine, he is coming, oh dear !
"With much hesitation
About Separation,
Uncertain which course he shall steer."
Had I the ability, and were I in a mood to attempt to write a
history of Provincialism, I would commence by saying that the
instinct of the people of New Zealand was proved to have been
altogether sound in their first choice of superintendents of provinces.
There have been exciting contests between candidates for the
important office throughout New Zealand, north and south ; but I am
not aware that anyone elected to that office under the system estab
lished by the Constitution Act was conspicuously unfit for the position.
It is unquestionably true that the first superintendents of provinces
were what, without any stretch of imagination, could be called strong
men, and representative of the times as weU as of the people.
In speaking thus of them, I feel that I am approaching perUously
near to politics, pure and simple ; but I am not going to yield to the
temptation of further committing myself I hope, however, that it
will be admitted by my friends that there is a touch of originality, as
well as of difficulty, in the attempt to write of politicians without
drifting into politics. What I desire to draw attention to is simply
the fact that the people of New Zealand, put upon their trial, have
proved themselves worthy of the privilege of electing their own rulers
conferred upon them by the Constitution Act.

The first elected Superintendent of Canterbury was James
Edward FitzGerald — a born politician. But these two words do not
fully describe him.
It may safely be said that a man with the soundest of views
in politics, and with the biggest heart in the world, is often at a dis
advantage as a public man if he is not qualified to speak like a book,
and to state his views and intentions clearly and fluently, and few can
do that who have not in early life had the advantage of a thorough
and systematic training. That my friend, James Edward FitzGerald,
the first Superintendent of Canterbury, could speak from early dawn
to late at night with all the eloquence of his countrymen, is main
tained by a large number of men, and has never in my hearing been
questioned by his political opponents.
That first election contest for the Superintendency of Canterbury
stirred the poUtical instincts of the " pilgrims ;" but it is spoken of as
having been conducted with " great good-humour and honest mirth."
Mr. FitzGerald, in this contest, was put forward as the representative of
the " sufficient price " of land — £^2 an acre ; whilst one of his oppon
ents was brought out as the advocate of cheap land at los. an acre. I
may state here the fact that the price of Crown lands within the limits
of the Canterbury province has never been reduced. One attempt,
if not more than one, was made to raise the price to ;^3 an acre ; but
the pr^bposal met with little support, either in the legislature or out of
doors. Those who are stUl interested in the proceedings of the projectors
and first workers of the Canterbury Association will find much to
interest them in Edward Gibbon Wakefield's " Letters " to statesmen
and others whose minds he laboured hard to saturate with his views
upon the necessity and art of systematic colonisation.
The son, E. Jerningham Wakefield, in his preface to the letters
published in 1868, tells the story of his father's connection with the
Canterbury settlement. He says, " In the year 184^, Mr. Wakefield
conceived the idea of a Church-ofEngland settiement in New
Zealand, under the auspices of the New Zealand Company. In
1844, this project was stUl further considered, but various circum
stances contributed to postpone its being carried into effect. A
project, similar in regard to provision for ecclesiastical and
educational institutions to be endowed out of a portion of the
purchase money of land, but in connection with the Free Kirk of

Scotiand, began to take shape under the auspices of Mr. Wakefield,
in the middle of 1845. The late Mr. Cargill took the same place
with regard to the project that Mr. Godley afterwards filled in the
organisation of the Canterbury settlement, and in August, 1845, '"'^s
in close conference with leading directors of the New Zealand
Company, on the construction of the Otago scheme. In the year
1847, Mr. Godley and Mr. Wakefield met and worked together up
to the actual foundation of Canterbury in 1850-185 1."
The bringing forward, in the British Parliament, of the Bill con
ferring upon New Zealand a Constitution was long delayed. Finally
the Bill was passed, when Mr. Wakefield packed up for the Colony,
where he lived during the remainder of his life.
When the idea of organising a systematic scheme of settlement
was broached to Mr. FitzGerald, he seemed at once to have been cap
tivated by it, and readily lent his aid, by speaking, writing, and work
ing to mature it. At a public meeting at Norwich we find him
speaking enthusiastically of the climate, soil, and productions of this
about-to-be-occupied land, and of the great future that lay before it ;
pointing out that those responsible for emigration from the old
country and immigration into the new, were deeply anxious that men,
in becoming colonists, should not forget that they were Englishmen p
that due provision was proposed to be made for the religious and
educational wants of the colonists ; that their sons and daughters,
born and brought up in the colony of New Zealand, might have the
same chances of developing into useful and respectable members of
society that their fathers had enjoyed in the old time gone by;
that if, in going out to form a colony and to provide for temporal
comforts, they did not carry on active war against primaeval nature
itself, they must sink into barbarism. A Cambridge man, an old
colonist StiU resident in Canterbury, told me that FitzGerald went
down to Cambridge to lecture upon colonization and Canterbury.
Although much has been written and playfully said as to the
exclusive character of the Canterbury scheme of settlement, it may
with truth be asserted that the promoters were in a sense a represen
tative body. They aU professed to be members of the Church of
England certainly ; some of them were moved by a burning desire to
see grow up and flourish in the land of their adoption a sister church,
worthy of the home relative. These men had the courage of their
opinions. The difficulties that they encountered served only to

"3
intensify their determination to establish a system that had in it the
elements of stability, and in thus determining, they acted wisely in
the interest of those coming aftfer them. But if of one church or
Christian denomination only, they were certainly made up of aU
sections of society, and of every profession known to civilised life.
Among these enthusiasts, so called, there were statesmen, peers,
bishops, country gentlemen, merchants, bankers — men of every branch
of business ; farmers, agricultural and other labourers, tradesmen,
lawyers, and ladies, all hard at work stirring up friends and acquain
tances either to go out themselves to this El Dorado or to induce
others to go out.
Lord Lyttelton, when in Canterbury in 1868, his first and last
visit to the settlement that he had had so large a share in financially
nursing in its infancy, referring to the part that he had played in the
promotion of the scheme, spoke as follows : " Many persons thought
that the essential object was to found a Church of England colony.
That was no doubt amongst the cherished objects of many, but it
was one which he held as comparatively subordinate to the principles of
self-regulation and self-administration. They knew that persons of all
creeds and all opinions would be attracted to the colony, and if they
had supposed for one moment that the Church of England could
retain any exclusive privileges, they would have been entertaining a
dream alien to all their principles and impossible of execution. Their
only idea was to leave the Church of England with a firm footing in
the ground, with a fixed endowment, and then to say, ' You have a
clear field before you, and a certain gentleman take the hindmost.' "
In conclusion, speaking proudly and fondly of the work that, with
others, he had taken an active part in promoting, he added: "For
himself, he trusted to retain to the end of his life the feeling he long
ago expressed in an address on this colony, of satisfaction in having
had a share in planting beyond the Atiantic and Pacific wave, in a
corner of a lonely island, the seed of a great English people."
On that same occasion, Mr. Charles Bowen, so well known to
Canterbury men, is reported to have said : " It was quite true that
changes were at hand ; but however some might talk about breaking
up and destroying the provinces, they would never succed in destroy
ing Canterbury. They would never destroy its traditions and its
esprit de corps, and he was sure that no one would be a worse colonist
of New Zealand because he was deeply attached to the province to

114
which he belonged. A soldier was not less likely to do credit to the
army, because he was attached to the regiment to which he belonged
and the colours under which he marched. The traditions and names
— the records of a glorious past — were a guarantee of a glorious
future." Many good stories were told in those days of the difficulties that
these enthusiasts encountered in their attempts to drive into the heads
of half-hearted people the facts that they were full of, and were more
than ready to proclaim. We who have witnessed the busy colonial
life of the first Superintendent of Canterbury, and have been fasci
nated by his eloquence, can without difficulty realise the life that he
must have led in the old country whUst engaged in this work.
Amongst others who had a good word to say for Canterbury was the
late Mr. Deans, of Riccarton, who told those eager for information
about Canterbury, that he had lived ten years in the land and that
nothing should induce him to live long away from it.
Although it was said of James Edward FitzGerald that he was
the orator of New Zealand, and although it was generally admitted
that he could write on political and social questions as none other in
the colony could write, the opinion that he was " no man of business"
had been hazarded by one who, I fancy, had never seen him at work.
He was first known to Canterbury colonists as immigration agent,
resident at Lyttelton, when he showed to all that he knew what
business meant, and did it to the satisfaction of aU. Many of us like
to think, although few care to say it, that the man who can speak so
eloquently, write so logically, and converse so persuasively and plea
santly, can hardly be equal to his neighbours in matters of business ;
but it is surely contrary to all experience to assert that culture is an
obstacle to a man's acquiring a practical knowledge of business. If
it were so, would you every day find self-made men, business men
grown rich, desiring above all things to see their chUdren well-educated
and refined ? The man conscious of an instinct which impels him to
study and to improve himself, and who has been trained to unravel
the mysteries of all knowledge, is surely better fitted to influence all
sorts and conditions of men, than one whose mind has never been
disciplined by study or refined by association with cuUivated people. ¦
Let any man who has lingering in his mind a doubt as to this gentle
man's business habits or fondness for work, ask his official subordi
nates whether he has not always kept, and does not stUl keep, them

"5
fully employed. I once heard it said of him by an old colleague in
office that his passion for work was really alarming. Throw out a
hint as to the necessity of an amendment in an existing Act, and he
would sit up half the night framing a bUl putting into shape his views
of the form and extent that such amendment should take. A col
league once spoke of him as a Parliamentary platypus — an
omithorynchus paradoxus — a beast with " a biU." I well remember
when he was a member of the Provincial Council of Canterbury, what
a serious expenditure of stationery there was, what a strain was put
on the waste-paper basket, and what a bulky volume of Provincial
Ordinances, resulted from his love of work.
Anyone really desirous of judging of Mr. FitzGerald's aptitude
for dealing with large questions, may have the opportunity by turning
up the file of the Press newspaper of 1862. His speech in Parlia
ment in that year on Native affairs was a great effort, worthy of the
occasion, of the subject, of himself, and of the Colony of which he
was at the time one of the representatives. This speech is much too
long to be reproduced in these pages, but much too important to be
wholly ignored in a sketch of his Parliamentary life. In speaking of
Maori character, he asserted that the Maoris exhibited in a remarkable
degree " a capacity for intellectual and social improvement." That
" the Maori is a man of generous and courageous disposition," with
" strong and vivid imagination, considerable powers of reasoning,
great political aptitude, and great diplomatic capacity," and that,
regarded as a whole, they are " a justice-loving people." In confir
mation of the high estimate that he had formed of the Maori
character and their general inteUigence, he quotes Mr. Gorst, now a
prominent Conservative in the British House of Commons, then
representing in Waikato the Colonial Government. This cultured
Englishman thus speaks of them : " Of the acuteness and wisdom of
these men I feel bound to speak in the highest terms. In all ques
tions which I have heard discussed by them, they have argued with
calmness and good temper ; kept steadily to the point at issue ; looked
at the question from every side, and faced all its difficulties ; and
have usuaUy come to a just decision." In tracing their history since
they had been brought under the influence of European life and
teaching, Mr. FitzGerald, of course, notices the work done by the
early missionaries. Without approving absolutely of all that they did
from first to last in the supposed interest of the Maori race, he is

ii6
quite inclined to do them substantial justice, thus speaking of them :
" I wish first to express my humble tribute of admiration at the suc
cessful and triumphant labours of this noble brotherhood. It is to
them that the Maori owes the largest part of the civUisation which he
has at present learned from us. Speaking as a politician, and wholly
without reference to religion or religious feeling, I say that the work
that the missionary has done in converting the natives to Christianity
is one the magnitude of which can never be over-estimated by a
statesman." When European bona fide settlers came into the country
it was said that the missionaries showed plainly that they were jealous .
of them, and would, if they could, have checked immigration into
New Zealand ; but as Mr. FitzGerald wisely said, " they might as weU
have attempted to stop the ocean's tide as to prevent the influx of
European settlers to these shores.''
The speech referred to was a review from first to last of our
dealing with the Maori race, embodying also a criticism of the insti
tutions in the interest of the Maoris proposed by the Government of
the day, and setting forth his own views as to their future government,
eloquently maintaining the view' that, as we had destroyed their form
of government, we were bound, in justice to the Maoris, to supply
them with an alternative form — substitute. " The state of anarchy,"
said he, "into which the race has fallen owing to the decay
of the power of the old chiefs, made it imperative on us to create
institutions to take their place.'' That they were now in the unenvi
able and miserable condition of men who had "lost the old arts of
savage life before they had acquired the new arts of a civiUzed
people." And "as a fruit of our neglecting our duty through a
course of years in failing to provide for them institutions suitable and
and acceptable to them, there had grown up in the minds of the
wisest and most peacefully-disposed amongst them a conviction that
it was pure folly to depend any longer on the superior race for aid in
establishing what they longed for and were determined to have."
Hence the desire and demand for what was regarded as a separate
nationality. This pining for nationality he spoke of as " the offspring
of a desire for law and order ; " and he asks : " Is not the desire for
a higher political and social organization the very soul of nationality T
He then implored the Maoris, in their own interest, to "accept our
nationaUty — a far higher and nobler nationality, growing up around
them, than any which they could create for themselves." And he

"7
warned the Legislature that if " they did not quickly absorb the king
movement into our government," that we should assuredly come into
collision with it, concluding thus : "I appeal to-night to the House,
to inaugurate a policy of courageous and munificent justice. I have
to-night to appeal to you as citizens of that nation which, deaf to the
predictions of the sordid and the timid, dared to give liberty to the slaves.
I venture to predict that, amongst the traditions of that great nation
which will one day rule these islands, and the foundation of which we
are now laying, the most, cherished and the most honoured will be
that wise, bold, and generous policy which gave the Magna Charta of
the Uberties to the Maori people."
After this, when as Native Minister he described the policy of
the Government, he spoke of it as "a work of patient disentangle
ment." He said further : " You must not only put down crime with
a strong arm, but you must strive to give free scope to and elevate all
the loftier characteristics of the people at the same time. We have
heard how in ancient times the nations of Christendom went out to
fight the heathen with the sword in one hand and the cross in the
other, and may we not gather from that old story a symbol and illus
tration of the true mode of governing men in all ages — the sword to
suppress crime, and the cross to point out an object to enlist the nobler
sympathies of his nature. And if I shaU be told that in the language
I have been in the habit of using, I have forgotten that the sword is
an element in human government, I reply that if I have seemed to
do so, it has been because I have fancied that in our deaUngs with
the native race, and in the popular opinions expressed throughout the
colony, I have seemed to see only the sword gleaming in the air
whUst the cross was trampled in the dust."
On his return from England, he retired to his farm at the Selwyn
for a season, where I have heard him say he was profitably engaged
in making butter. He was suspected at the same time of indulging
his taste for writing on political questions ; on fare occasions some
thought that they could detect his vigorous and finished style in one
of the newspapers then published. A lady of that opinion once
accused him of being the author of some of the spiciest of those
productions ; but he looked amazed, and replied, " Lady, what do you
mean ? I have but just driven into Christchurch ; I have not seen
the newspaper to-day ; I have no time, indeed, to think even of such
matters. My business now-a-days is to supply men with ' butter '.'

ii8
" Oh," said she, " You call it by that name, do you. Thank you for
the information. I shall know better another time."
There are many men still living who have not forgotten what
was playfully spoken of as " the circulating medium,"— a vehicle at
once the delight of small boys and the terror of all horses. I wish
I could describe it. It had two wheels only ; but such wheels I
they towered to the level of the wall plates of the houses of that
time. The thing resembled a timber carriage, vrith shafts instead of
a pole ; and it was dangerous, inasmuch as chUdren could hardly
resist poking their arms through the spokes of the wheels. To drag
it about two horses were absolutely required, and were yoked up
tandem fashion. A political opponent once seeing him in the street
in difficulty with his leader, exclaimed, " There goes a man who can
neither drive a leader nor write one.''
One of Mr. FitzGerald's last drives before leaving Canterbury
for England was over the Sumner road to Lyttelton, in the formation
of which road he always took a keen interest. It is said that on
this occasion he was not assisted by more than two men at the head
of each horse, — but it is very difficult to get at the truth of these
rumours. Punch in Canterbury, in 1865, in his column headed "Pro
vincial Biography," has in playful mood, hit off" sketches of some of
the leading men in Canterbury, very properly giving precedence to
FitzGerald and Moorhouse. He spoke of the former as having left
Great Britain to its fate at the early age of nineteen, finding that the
affairs of the old country were altogether unattractive and its
resources almost exhausted. He therefore embarked for New
Zealand, where he practised, day by day, his various professions of
Law, Medicine, Architecture, Lecture on Constitutions, and General
Representative of the Working Classes. In all of these professions
he is said to have succeeded to his own satisfaction.
Punch seemed to think of him as a pugnacious man, and
selected for him as a crest " a thorn stick, knobbed at both ends,"
and as a motto, ^^ Per saltum. — By Fitz.''
And of Moorhouse, his successor in the Superintendency, the
same great authority writes : " A\'illiam Sefton Moorhouse ; an emi
nent jurist, navigator, navvy, and statesmen, who has also distinguished
himself in the horse-dealing and engineering sciences. The precise
year of his birth is not known, but it is probable that he will be borne

119
.n triumph at the opening of the LytteUon and Christchurch railway-
tunnel, through which he was able to see several years before the rest
of the world. It is easier to say what this extraordinary genius is not
than what he is. He is not Superintendent, but he has been so ; he
is not an able seaman, but he has been one ; he is not a resident
magistrate, nor a justice of the peace, nor a navvy, nor a member of
the General Assembly, nor an editor, nor a digger, nor a shipowner,
but he had been each and all of these." Punch furnishes him also
with a crest and a motto. Crest : A locomotive with steam up ;
motto : " ffohis bolus ; let us a loan."
WiUiam Sefton Moorhouse: was elected to the office of Superin
tendent in the year 1857. This pubUc servant not only did his duty
to Canterbury; he did also his share of work in the General Assembly
of New Zealand, where he was at once recognised and classed as
amongst the strongest and formost men of the day, and always spoken
of as a possible man in the formation of a new Ministry. But he
never took office in the General Government. He had other work
to see to, for the performance of which he was conscious of a
specialty. His clear head and strong wiU were plainly exhibited in
his conception and completion of the great work that has immortalised
him throughout New Zealand. I allude to the tunnel connecting the
port of Lyttelton with the plains of Canterbury. When he first con
ceived the great idea and began to ventilate it, he was branded as a
madman, and spoken of by the representatives of economy and
caution as a very dangerous man to be left in office. I fear that the
records of provincial history turned up would reveal, in more pages
than one, that I was among those who spoke of his proposal as quite
too big a thing for little Canterbury to undertake ; and that, in the
interest of all dwellers in the province, he ought to be hobbled,
confined to a limited area, and forced to abandon this scheme that
possessed him by day and haunted him by night. ^
But this strong man was quite equal to the occasion ; had the
courage of his opinions ; fought valiantly with his opponents one by
one and aU together, in speech and in print, privately and publicly,
in his Superintendent's sanctum, and in the Provincial Council; and
came out of the conflict scoring a success. He persuaded the people
out of doors and their representatives in the Council, and succeeded
as bold men deserve to succeed, in gaining the necessary authority
to undertake the great work. , Men, accounted wise, spoke again and

again of the foUy, the utter unseasonableness, of his bold project;
of its utter inapplicability to the resources of the province, and of the
certainty of a gigantic financial failure. But the opponents of this
great scheme of tunnelling the hiUs, soon made the discovery that all
opposition to Moorhouse on this great question was futUe. They
cleared themselves of the obligation put upon their judgment and con
science by recording a protest, and then gracefully yielded to the force
of circumstances. When it was finished they wisely utilised it, and
courageously confessed that the work done was a great work, and that
the man whose restless brain had conceived the brilUant idea was
deserving of all honour for the conception, and a substantial reward for
his pluck and persistence in urging its completion.
In turning the first sod of the Lyttelton and Christchurch railway
in July, 1861, Moorhouse is reported to have said: "I have endea
voured to bring this scheme before the public of Canterbury relying
upon facts. I have kept these facts before me every hour of my life
— I have breakfasted, dined, supped, and slept upon them. The
enterprise is only in its infancy, the seed is but sown, but I hope to
see it ere long a fruitful vine, having many branches springing from
it." It is said that when he first looked upon the hole in the hiU
pointed out as the beginning of the mighty work that he had
projected, that he cried out with astonishment, " That Uttle hole the
entrance to the tunnel ! It should be as broad and open as the road
to Hades !"
This work deserves to be spoken of as the greatest engineerings ¦¦
triumph in New Zealand. It was the first link forged in the chain of
railway communication between the port of Lyttelton and the city of
Christchurch. Upon its completion, the man who projected it was
in no mood to sit down and fold his hands for the remainder of his
official life. He then, with the courage born of success, boldly
proposed the extension of the line of railway in the direction of
Timaru, asserting that the tunnel was a monster that needed feeding,
and that all parts of the province of Canterbury must sooner or later
be laid under contribution to support it ; frankly admitting that untU
railways, touching and tapping some of the most fertile parts of the
province were completed, the tunnel could only be regarded as littie
better than a white elephant. But in those eariy days there was less
money in the provincial exchequer than enterprise and vitality in the
brain of the Superintendent. This was an admitted diflSculty, but

not to his fertile mind unconquerable. He made light of all
difficulties, financial and poUtical, and spoke of many conceivable
ways of accomplishing so great a work, reminding the people that
they had an unsold estate, which, in some form or other, could be
utUised in the promotion of such works.
In due time, during his successor's Superintendency, the first
section of the line of railway from Christchurch running south was
undertaken and completed. When Julius 'Vogel proprosed his great
scheme of public works, he forgot not to recognise the great merit of
Canterbury's ex-Superintendent and representative, or showed the
least unwillingness to rank William Sefton Moorhouse among the
foremost of men who had done deeds worthy of being recorded in
the history of the colony. And when Moorhouse was called upon to
express his views of 'Yogel's policy, he generously and graciously
reciprocated the complimentary acknowledgment, by confessing that
the scheme proposed by Julius "Vogel had long had a place in his
mind, and that he heartily rejoiced at the circumstance of its being
taken up by one politically strong enough to carry it out. These two
men loved nothing better than to be connected with the carrying out
of great public works.
There are many men, thriving settlers, now resident in the pro
vincial district of Canterbury, who probably have never heard of
William Sefton Moorhouse, the man who conceived the great idea of
tunnelUng the Port hills, but there is not a man living within that
area who has not largely benefited by such increased facilities of
communication, and these must in fairness be always spoken of as
mainly due to the foresight and untiring energy of one man.
He first served the province of Canterbury as a resident magis
trate — weU qualified by a legal ¦ education and by character to fitly
perform the duties attaching to that office. But he was not merely
an educated lawyer ; he was something more than that. He had,
when put to it, done good work in many other occupations and
-avocations, sometimes boasting that he had graduated in a gold-field.
He thus got to know a littie more of human nature — of the instincts
and aspirations of the labouring man — than many of his contempo
raries and friends, who were his equals only in education and social
position, and he appUed this knowledge to a good use. Experts were
often struck, not only with his general acquaintance with a variety of
-subjects, but with his technical knowledge, which they spoke of as

intuitive. The education that circumstances afforded him or enabled
him to acquire, taught him, as a rule, to utUise all means to promote
the general welfare, and opened his eyes and heart to the needs and
longings of all sections of the community over which the Constitution
of the country had placed him. I think it may fairly be said of him
that he never failed to recognise the wisdom of dealing in a large way
with large questions ; never regarding himself as the exclusive repre
sentative of this section of the people or of that; but honestly and
persistently striving to do justice to all sorts and conditions of men.
I was once told by a man who is now a blooming settler, if not
a bloated capitalist, in Canterbury, that he first met with Moorhouse
in Victoria, and that he knew well what it was to have worked by his
side ; that he could do a good day's work, and hold his own, when
challenged, with the strongest rough to be met with. This fellow-
labourer next saw him posing as Superintendent of the province of
Canterbury, apparently quite as much at home in the new as he was
in the old position. During their first interview, Moorhouse could
not help noticing that he was being rather closely observed, and
feeling certain that the man with his eye on him must have seen him
before, he said, " We have met before to-day ; when, and where i""
The reply was, " In Victoria, at the Yan Yean waterworks, where I
have seen you and your brother handling a pick and shovel." '' And
why have you not been to see me before to renew the acquaintance?"
said Moorhouse. "Because," said his former companion in work,
" I preferred, in our changed positions and circumstances, to let
Superintendent Moorhouse first address me." " And yet," said
Moorhouse, " you professed to know me, and knowing me, could
make the stupid blunder of mistaking me for such a ' snob ' as not
to be ready to acknowledge an old labourer acquaintance. Don't
make the same nUstake again." The man -svho tells this story is a
close friend of mine. He was, from first to last, a friend and a
staunch political adherent of William Sefton Moorhouse, and he
seemed to appreciate the manliness of his old acquaintance, who in
the day of his elevation to oflSce and authority was above the pettiness
of posing as Superintendent before him. The friend referred to is a
proud man, and as remarkable for his attachment to his friends as he
is for his pride — proud of inspiring a feeling of friendship in his
feUow man, but showing no quarter to one who seems to think that
he can be patronized with impunity.

123
During his term of office as Superintendent, I have known him
on one occasion face a crowd of the " unemployed,", who preferring
to Uve in Christchurch to taking work in the country, at times found
it a Uttle difficult to get work to please them. Although fuU of
sympathy for labouring men; he had not much at command for
men whom he suspected of laziness — on this occasion he seemed in
a mood to accuse them of want of pluck in coming to the Superin
tendent for work, whUst employment was to be had for the seeking
up and down the country — teUing them of his own colonial life, of
the difficulties he had to face and conquer when he was himself a
labourer with his hands ; and crying shame upon them for asking to
be fed with Government porridge, whilst good fat mutton and bread
was to be earned by honest work in the country districts. And speak
ing thus he was listened to by the majority, as a man mostly is
who is known to have a sympathetic regard for his fellow-men in all
conditions of life.
Although he finally developed into an effective speaker, he had
in speaking a style of his own, which could not be described as
" fluent or finished." He never affected oratory, but for all that he
was rightly spoken of as eloquent. Speaking out from his heart, and
proving that he had thought out for himself a solution of many of the
social and political questions, that cultivated and earnest men throughout
the world love to exercise their minds upon. Those who listened to
his earliest efforts in speaking in public, sometimes feared that he never
would succeed in overcoming his short jerky style of giving utterance
to his views. He, however, to a great extent did overcome this
defect or difficulty ; and finally became, if not gracefully fluent, an
admittedly powerful speaker. But he sometimes utterly failed in
these attempts. On one occasion, when caUed upon to propose the
health, happiness, and prosperity of a newly-married couple, his
intimate friends, he promptly arose, ready enough to undertake the
responsibility put upon him, but not so ready with fitting words to do
justice to the joyful occasion. He rose, he hummed and hawed,
paused, mumbled, shifting his position from one leg to the other,
scratched his head, dragged at the skirt of his coat, twiried his
moustache, and wriggled about like one suffering torture ; he looked
at the ceUing, but saw nothing there, he gazed at the blushing bride
and beaming bridesmaids, and faUing to catch inspiration he stamped
with vexation, and plumped down into his chair, exclaiming " I'll

124
never again, as long as I Uve, make an attempt to propose anyone's
health ! " " Don't say that," said a cynic by his side, " you have no
conception how entertaining you can be."
Whilst with his brother, doing na-wy's work on the Yan Yean
water works in the suburbs of Melbourne, an occasion arose when he
was somewhat suddenly called upon to show his best form in what is
classicaUy caUed the "noble art of self-defence," when he proved,
to the complete satisfaction of seven or eight hundred navvies, that
he had not forgotten how to use his clenched fists under provocation.
The man who had provoked him into a combat with fists, got very
severely punished, and seemed to have well deserved the treatment that
he received. Moorhouse missing his long-handled shovel, entered
the tent of a man whom he suspected of having stolen it. He found
the shovel, and was walking off" with it, when the thief barred the
way, saying, " Not so fast, mate ; by jabers the man who touches that
shovel will have to prove himself a better man than me." " But,"
said Moorhouse, " it is my shovel, why should I not take it ?" "We'll
see about that by-and-bye, after we settle who's the best man;
come on." " Nonsense," said Moorhouse, " I have harder work to
do than fighting, so clear the road and let me go to it." His brother,
by this time coming up, and taking in the position at a glance, said
" Sefton, if he's determined to fight, humour him, and let him have
it." A ring was formed of upwards of eight hundred excited navvies,
and at it these two men went. His brother, on taking the measure
of his opponent, counseUed caution in dealing with him, saying " the
man's a giant; and ifhe has only the least little bit of science, he wiUbe
precious hard to beat. Act therefore on the defensive, untU you find
out his form." Not ignoring this caution, he went to work warUy for
two or three rounds. He then said to his brother, " I feel I could
smash him up in five minutes." " Then do it," said the brotiier.
And he did it, and in quick time, convincing this Brobdinagian
navvy, whose notion as to the strict meaning of meum and tuum
were sadly in need of reforming, that the long-handled shovel
was by right and fight the property of his plucky antagonist. The
sequel to this story is that the brother then stepped forward
courageously, offering to prove over again his brother's best right to
the long-handled shovel, and after a similar fashion ; but enough for ,
one day had been seen of the Moorhouse metal.
One day when he was in the Magistrate's Court at Christchurch,

125
a suitor, on the termination of the sitting, lingered in the precincts of
the Court, and seemed desirous of addressing him. Moorhouse
noticing this, inquired whether he had any further Court business.
Whereupon the man smUed an said "I ax your pardon, zur, but were
^ou ever at the Yan Yean works over the other side ? You do so
remind me of a man I once knew there ; we caUed him ' Yan Yean
BiU.' " " I'm the man himself," said Moorhouse ; " come home with
me and let's have a talk over old times.''
He spoke frequently and proudly of his Yan Yean experience.
To an Australian squatter just arrived in Canterbury, who in speaking
of these works, had asked him whether he had heard of them, he
repUed, " why man I helped to make them ; and I rather think my
brother and I did about the biggest thing in piece work, within a
Umited time, that had ever been done during its construction."
" You did," said the Australian, " then give me your hand, man ; I
am proud of having made your acquaintance, and let me express the
hope that you may live to become the Superintendent of Canterbury,
for you seem to me to be fit for the office." Not long after this,
when he had been elected to fill the office, he reminded this
sympathetic AustraUan of his almost prophetic speech.
In a former page of this sketch of Mr. Moorhouse's life, I have
spoken of him as an " educated lawyer." He was a barrister of
home manufacture, and I am told had practiced in his profession in
the old country before coming out to Canterbury. His name is also
to be found amongst the first purchasers of land in the Canterbury
settlement. Strong as was the bond of union that bound together this family
of Yorkshiremen ; and ready as the head of the famUy always was to
help and advise his famUy and friends, it was never said of Moorhouse,
the Superintendent of Canterbury, it never could have been said of
him, that he abused his position, in pushing their fortunes either in
pubUc or private life. Nepotism was certainly not amongst his sins
or faUings. What might have been said of him with a near
approximation to truth was, that he buUt houses for other men to
live in. He was a genial man, and appreciated good living within due
limits ; but he was ready enough to rebuke a man for his folly when
he recklessly overstepped the visible line of propriety. On one
occasion thus speaking to a man, he was repUed to in these words :

126
" I don't take much more than you do, Mr. Superintendent ; the
difference between us is simply, that you being a strong man, can
stand it ; and I, being a weak man, can't." The strong man
immediately offered to take the pledge of total abstinence for twelve
months if his weak friend would do the same. The pledge was taken
and kept by both — with no detriment to the one, and to the very great
benefit of the other.
He once said to me, pointing at Sir John Hall, his great
opponent in Provincial politics, " there goes a man who has in excess
qualities that I am sadly wanting in. He is all caution ; I am all
enterprise. My difficulty is to restrain myself ; his to work himself
up into action. Were it possible to roll us up into one mass, to
amalgamate us, and out of the result to carve out two new creatures,
the world would look upon two first-class men, avaUable for every
variety of work:"
During his official life, wholly absorbed as he was in big schemes
and departmental work, he had little time to devote to light literature,
but when drifting into a talk of the works of popular writers of the
day, he showed an intelligent appreciation of their distinctive
characteristics and peculiarities. He ventured to say of the author
of " Sam Slick," for instance, that he regarded him as wise above
most men. In criticising and contrasting Dickens and Thackeray,
he said of the latter " I never get up from reading Thackeray's works
without being conscious of the sharpening of the cynical side of my
nature, and I never read Dickens without feeling more than ever
convinced that the highest form of human happiness is that which
concerns itself sympathetically with our fellow men."
He was much in earnest when engaged in an election contest,
but when the election was over he strove to put away from
him aU recollection as to who had opposed him. A story was told of
a man who held a rather important oflSce in one of the departments
of the Provincial Government. This man had exerted himself con
spicuously in opposing Moorhouse's election to the Superintendency.
When the election was over and Moorhouse was declared elected,
the clerk took into his head that he ought to resign his clerkship, and
he accordingly sent in his resignation. The Superintendent at once
sent for him, asking his reason for wishing to resign. Upon his con
fessing that he had been a prominent political opponent, and that he
thought it becoming in him to resign his office in consequence, he

127
was told to go away and do his duty like a man, and never to forget
that the Superintendent in his political relations strove to be just to
all opponents and supporters alike.
At a pubUc meeting at Temuka called by him, he entered at
considerable length into his proposals as to the extension of the
southern raUway. He spoke ably and fully, and was listened to
attentively. There was, however, in his audience, a man well known
throughout the Temuka district, the late Mr. Mendelson, who held
strong opposition views on the question of borrowing large sums of
money for the construction of railways, which he maintained could
not possibly pay interest on the cost of construction for very many
years. This opponent of the railway policy dwelt forcibly upon the
financial aspect of the question, pressing Moorhouse pretty closely in
dealing with figures — so closely, at last, that the proposer of railways
turned sharply upon his questioner and said, " May I ask, sir, by
whom I have the honour of being addressed ? You seem to me to
know that twice two make four, and you have in your time, I should
guess, added up many a long column of figures. Are you the village
schoolmaster ?" There was an end that day to all attempts to corner
him. "When I took an active part in opposing him at a public meeting,
he struck out manfully, dealing heavy blows ; and when in a mood
and the occasion seemed to call for it, he could show himself able to
handle the legitimate weapon of satire. He was a formidable man
to encounter, and Englishman-like, seldom knew when he was beaten ;
or if beaten, and conscious of it, Yorkshireman-Uke, ready again and
again to come up to time. It was my fate to have to face him out of
doors as well as within the walls of Parliament, and there is no good
reason that I know of why I should not frankly admit that on some
of these occasions he would make it remarkably hot for me. His
position as Superintendent and his experience as a politician gave
him strong standing ground to fight from ; and he used with a skill the
outcome of training as well as of instinct, all weapons that accom
plished Parliamentary experts are wont to handle in carrying on
political warfare. At Temuka, often spoken of as the very focus of
discontent, it devolved upon me to give expression to the local
grievance view, savouring strongly of anti-Provincialism. At this
time he (Mr. Moorhouse) was the great champion of Provincialism —
would tolerate no interference with its functions — no tampering with
its form. Overcome with indignation at our thus daring to question

128
the spotless purity of the institution — the image that he had set up —
he struck out manfully in its defence, speaking enthusiasticaUy of the
province of Canterbury, asserting that it reflected a bright light upon,
and imparted a vitality to all other provinces, and imploring his
hearers, in their own interest, in the interest of all dwelling within the
limits of Canterbury, in the true interest of the colony, not to throw
a stone at the beautiful image that wise men had cherished and that
wicked men were bent upon overthrowing; speaking of me as a
blind leader of the blind, and that no substantial good could come of
trusting to a man who, in true diletante fashion, thus played with
important questions ; that he only was a reliable guide on great
questions such as these ; that all the year round they occupied him ;
that I, butterfly-like, but sipped at the sw-eets of the flowers of poUtics ;
whilst he, educated to the glorious work, having a speciality for it,
and being experienced in the ways of men, had every right to be
regarded as a leader of every section of the people of Canterbury.
Ringing the changes upon my name, he spoke of me as a fox that
had lost his taU and was intent on persuading those trotting at my
heels to follow the ridiculous fashion. If on this occasion he failed
to convince us of the soundness of his views on great political ques
tions, it certainly could not be said that he failed in his attempts to
amuse us.
As he never allowed politics to harden him into indifference to
the claims that society had upon him, he -wUlingly accepted my
invitation to visit me on his way back to Christchurch, for the nonce
hiding away the hatchet that he had so mercilessly used when deaUng
with me. On entering the house, however, he told my wife that he
considered me a bad lot ; that I was a man w-hoUy destitute of faith ;
that I did not even believe in a Superintendent.
Again, when in Parliament, I had charge of the " Timaru and
Gladstone Board of Works BiU," and it was obvious that the House
was in a mood to pass it, he laid himself out to talk against time, and
did the thing well. With no onfe to assist him, he succeeded in keeping
the ball rolling all night long. To fiU up the time, he entered upon
an elaborate critique of Sir \Valter Scott's novels ; talked then of the
science of politics, expressing the opinion that few men were quaUfied
for such a life ; and warned his political opponents, whom he dubbed
baby politicians, not to cross his path, wondering, indeed, at their
recklessness in entering into competition with a seasoned debater like

129
himself in discussing great constitutional questions. Although he
cleverly criticised me, hitting me hard and often, he said nothing from
first to last that I could possibly resent. When it was all over, he
and his hearers having had more than enough of it, we retired to
BeUamy's. When I said to him, " Come along, Moorhouse, let us
eat and drink, for to-morrow you die," he replied, " Die I may, but
as long as I live I will never forgive you for your wicked attempt to
foul the nest of Provincialism."
Talking against time had not then become the fashion. But I
have a very distinct recollection of another occasion in Parliament
when a man was indulging in the caccethes loquendi, and I feU asleep and
dreamed a dream. I seemed to see around me myriads of departed
spirits — defunct legislators — condemned to purgatory and gathered
together into one Parliament ; and hordes of honourable members
bobbing up and down asking to be heard on points of order ; and in
the midst of this terrible hubbub of parliamentary babbling the
Speaker crossed the floor of the House and boxed my ears. That
was the climax — the termination of my horrible nightmare. Simul
taneously I was conscious of a rough handling by an honourable
member in the flesh, who woke me up, reminding me where I was.
I had not only slept, I had actually snored, and in the presence of
Mr. Speaker, and within two yards only of the mace — that idolised
ensign of authority. I quickly came to my senses, however. On
looking up, the Speaker's eye was on me, and this is what he said :
"It is altogether unparliamentary, unbecoming, subversive of all
order, in honourable members making such noises during a debate."
My friends, on this trying occasion, were very sympathetic, congratu
lating me upon being so distinguished by Mr. Speaker as to have been
caUed to order for a hitherto unknown form of contempt. I never
went to sleep in the House after that Uttle experience."
Mr. Moorhouse's successor as Superintendent of the province of
Canterbury was Mr. Samuel Bealey. Mr. Bealey's term of office
ended in 1866, when Mr. Moorhouse was a second time elected.
During the time Mr. Bealey held office there was a considerable
extension of the raUway; and during his reign also the West
Coast road. Sir John HaU's masterpiece in provincial pubUc
works, was undertaken and completed. Both facts of sufficient
importance to be recorded in a narrative of Provincial events. K

13°
Mr. Bealey was an educated man, and was readily accepted by
the people of Canterbury as their chief Magistrate. It can hardly be
said of him that, like Moorhouse, he had a passion for politics ; or
that, like some others of our public men, he had an insatiable appetite
for work. It is of little consequence, after all these years, to record the
history of the negotiations that resulted in the placing of the Provincial
Crown on the head of William RoUeston, where it remained until the
abolition of provinces, and with them, Superintendents and CouncUs.
Mr. William RoUeston was, in a true sense, a colonist. He was
weU known to the people of Canterbury. An educated man, he seemed
instinctively to take an intelligent and active interest in the noble
cause of the education of the people. In those early days he was
quite as ready to conduct an examination of boys at Christ's College,
Christchurch, as to go about any other sort of work.
^le was not much given to boasting or joking, but he would often
speak of what, in the way of hard work, he had done in the colony,
what he could do, and what, in his opinion, all colonists ought to
attempt to do who go to live on a sheep station. Work, that rightly
or wrongly he thought he had a specialty for, was driving a team of
bullocks — trying to make his friends believe that he was indeed
prouder of that little accomplishment than of any of his successes at
the University. Speaking generally, it ought not to be forgotten that the educated
men of Canterbury were in those early days ready to turn their hands
to anything. They certainly were not afraid of hard work. I never
saw my friend WiUiam RoUeston with a bullock-whip over his
shoulder. Perhaps if I had seen him thus armed, I should have
hesitated to take office in his Provincial Executive when he w-as
Superintendent. Before he occupied the Superintendent's chair, he
was well employed at Wellington doing the work of Under-Secretary
in the Native Department. And when filling that position he was
very constantly to be seen hovering about the Speaker's chair in the
House of Representatives. He thus became well known by sight to
aU the members of the General Assembly. Being a capable man
he was utilized in many ways by the General Government.
In connection with the Native Department he was commissioned | >
to examine into and report upon the condition of native schools in
the North Island. He performed that work thoroughly, after his

131
accustomed fashion ; making a report, however, that was not
altogether satisfactory to those responsible for the state of the schools.
He was, of course, sharply criticised in some quarters for what he had
said in his report ; but he could see no reason to retract anything that
he had written.
His fitness for the office of Superintendent soon became clear to
the Canterbury public. They knew that he had an appetite for
work (which, by the way, has never deserted him), and they lived
very contentedly under his rule or reign during the rest of his politico-
provincial life.
When Under-Secretary to the Native Department, he was a
splendid man to go to for information upon almost any question
coming before Parliament. He seemed to have all Parliamentary
records by heart — was, in a word, the most complete political
encyclopaedia within reach, and was always more than ready, as weU
as capable, to give all information sought.
Shortly after becoming Superintendent of Canterbury he became
a representative in the General Assembly. Since those days many
political as weU as cosmical suns have risen and set. Our friend
WUliam RoUeston has grown older, and has developed into a parlia
mentary figure of large dimensions. What he has done since he
ceased to inhale a Provincial atmosphere, is plainly written in the
records of the Parliament of New Zealand.
Like all men who are in earnest over politics, and have taken a
part in pitched battles, he has on occasions been wounded. He has
held his political life in his hand ; but he still lives, and looks as full
of vigour as ever.
The provinces abolished, this last of the Superintendents of
Canterbury was wisely and not tardUy transformed into a Colonial
Minister. I think, as a matter of fact, all Superintendents of the
larger provinces, Auckland, Wellington, Canterbury and Otago, were
found fighting side by side, shoulder to shoulder, in that sharp, short,
and decisive parliamentary struggle — the "be or not to be" of
Provincialism. Some of those old Provincial soldiers that fought by
his side in that last fight, have been heard to express their sorrow that
he so quickly recovered from his wounds ; thinking that he too soon
yielded to the force if circumstances. That it would have better
become one of the champions of ProvinciaUsm, to have lingered
longer at its grave — shown a sore heart, and a disconsolate mind for

132
a more protracted season. That, although in acting as he had done,
he was -weU within the lines and limit of what •politicians are in the
habit of doing daily, that it would have looked more like propriety
had he suffered the grass to grow over the grave of his fair first love,
before submitting to the political embrace of dame Wellington.
Others think, and on many occasions have publicly expressed the
opinion, that the best day's work he ever did during his pariiamentary
life, was done on the day that he consented to be utiUsed in the
interests of the colony. That in his case provincial death meant
political life.
Otago had for its Superintendent in Mr. Macandrew as apt and
able a man, in some respects, as was to be found in New Zealand.
He was a Provincialist of Provincialists ; and will carry to his grave
a sore heart caused by the abolition of provinces. I don't know the
time when he was not one of the representatives of Otago in the
Parliament of New Zealand. And it is intended as no slur upon his
political reputation to say of him that he never aUowed himself to
forget that he was a representative of Otago ; or that he ever showed
himself unready to stand up for, what he conceived to be, the
legitimate rights and interests of his province.
There were many more eloquent men than Mr. Macandrew in
the Assembly ; and certainly a large number of men who occupied
more of its time than he did ; but he was a forcible speaker when he
took the trouble to pull himself together to do battle with his political
opponents. There was perceptible in his style of speaking a
mannerism not very attractive ; but the matter of his speech was always
important enough to arrest and fix the attention of his audience. He
had the great merit, a very great merit indeed, of never rising to
speak except when he had something to say ; and he never sought to
prolong a debate into the small hours of the morning. With him the
canonical hour of closing the sitting of the House was twelve o'clock
at night. He protested vigorously against the growing and insane
practice of driving wiUing horses both night and day, wisely consider
ing that both body and mind needed rest as well as excitement ; and
that the bow always strung would soon become powerless.
Although an out-and-out representative of the province of Otago,
when as its Superintendent it was clearly his duty and business to
watch legislation affecting it, he always took an intelligent interest and

133
active part in the general business of the Legislature. He made one
exception, however. From first to last he protested against being caUed
upon to discuss " Native affairs," on the ground that he had never
lived in a land overrun with Maoris ; knew nothing of their ways and
wants, and wanted to know nothing of them. He was an active
political supporter of Julius Vogel up to the time of the proposed
abolition of the provinces. When Vogel, in his haste, as Macandrew
considered, gave the. word to apply the axe to the root of the
Provincial tree, he cut himself adrift from the party, and never again
was ranked amongst them. He loved his province too well to care to
see it degraded by subdivision, to the level of small provinces. And
he could not refrain from expressing his wonder and sorrow at the
recklessness of men, at the political wickedness in high places, that
took pleasure in dragging them through the dirt. Such a man at the
head of such a province as Otago, could hardly help shedding a tear
at the uprooting of the Provincial tree flourishing at his door, although
he was invited to take shelter under the branches of a " Wellingtonia
gigantea." On making known to a friend that I was engaged in a series of
biographical sketches of the Superintendents of provinces, he told me
that one of the most interesting sig'nts that he had ever looked upon
was the seeing Mr. Macandrew " at home," so to speak, amongst his
own people. He was at the time travelling with the Superintendent,
who was -visiting a remote part of the province. These men openly
and strongly expressed their gratitude to the Superintendent for his
having recommended them to come out to the province of Otago
where prosperity had visited them. The relation between this
section of colonists and the Superintendent was, he said, of quite a
patriarchal character ; and my friend, if he hesitated to say it in plain
terms, meant me to understand, that in his opinion the abolition of
an institution under which such a satisfactory condition of things had
grown up, was a bitter mistake. ''
Mr. Macandrew is now the only member of the House of
Representatives who held a seat in the first session of Parliament at
Auckland in 1854; and was, I am told, the mover of the first
resolution put to the House after the appointment of a Speaker. He
still represents an important constituency in Otago ; is still to the
firont in Parliamentary warfare, and is as sturdy a specimen of " the
Otago Old Identity " as is to be met with.

134
The Superintendent of Auckland, John Williamson, was a
remarkable instance of a self-made man — of what can be accom
plished by a clear-headed and self-reliant man, without friends in high
places, by his own unaided ability. In early life a soldier, while stiU
in the vigour of manhood, he emigrated to Auckland and took to
politics. But he came of a race who are instinctively fitted for such
a life. An Irishman born, and passionately attached to his country
and countrymen, he was accepted by them and by a large number of
his fellow-colonists not his countrymen, as the right man in the right
place at the head of the province, and a fit man to represent the
interests of Auckland in the General Assembly of New Zealand.
I am not aware of the year that he first entered Parliament.
He was a member of the House of Representatives in 1863, when I
first saw him in Auckland. For two or three sessions at Wellington
he seemed to handle the Auckland representatives, who had constituted
him their parliamentary leader, with great judgment and remarkable
success : sometimes to the discomfiture of a Ministry, at other times
to the bewilderment of an Opposition. He was as successful a hand
in keeping a debate moving as anyone at that time in the Assembly.
He was Auckland all over in matters bearing directly on provincial
interests ; but he was a man of broad sympathies, and held enlightened
views upon questions touching the welfare of the people as a whole.
Those who only knew him as a member of the Assembly in the last
few years of his political life could hardly realise that he had ever
been regarded as an important political power. I have heard men
more competent than myself to speak of a man's political aptitude,
say of him that there was more of the statesman about him than was
to be found in many of those who had got to be regarded as leaders
of the people in things political. When he died, he was sincerely
regretted by a large number of the people who had for many years
witnessed his work and benefited by his early efforts on behalf of the
Province of Auckland.
I think I am not far wrong in saying that Dr. Featherston held
office as Superintendent of Wellington for a longer period than any
other Superintendent in any other province of New Zealand. He was
not intimately known to most of us as a Superintendent. He was, at
any rate, better known to us as an influential representative in the General
Assembly ; never accepting office in a General Ciovernment Ministry,

135
but certainly never asleep upon the main questions that occupied
Parliament. He had, indeed, the reputation of having a good deal
to do with the formation of Ministries. He was not of the number
of those who, by perpetual speaking, visibly bore the House ; but
when he did speak he had something to say ; and when he had said it
one had the feeling that he had left nothing unsaid upon his side of
the question. He was a man of a dignified presence, had a singularly
clear and penetrating voice, and when he rose to speak he was listened
to with marked attention. When it became known that Featherston
was on his legs, there was a general rush into the House — representa
tives suddenly becoming conscious that they owed it to their con
stituents to be in their places.
He was very hospitable to strangers, as became one in the
position that he occupied in Wellington ; and seemed always anxious
to make the Maori chiefs feel at home amongst members and
strangers from other parts of New Zealand. Some of the best speci
mens of the race were often to be seen at his table, where they always
conducted themselves with a quiet dignity and propriety that caused
strangers to express surprise. But men who had been entertained by
them, who had seen them dispensing hospitality in their pas, were
not in the least surprised at their gentleman-like reserve and pleasing
demeanour. The Maoris are marvellously quick in adapting
themselves to surrounding circumstances. They could see at a glance
on such occasions as I speak of, what was expected of them. The
man entertaining them had no cause to regret having invited them to
meet Europeans. In the early days of the colony, Dr. Featherston
had considerable influence with the tribes in and about Wellington ;
and he seemed to be trusted and respected by all natives with whom
he had to do. On the occasions that I speak of, the wives of the
chiefs were not visible. They were often, though, to be seen at baUs
at Government House, when they were elaborately attired in the
latest fashion. Their dancing could not, by any stretch of politeness,
be called a success ; and I don't think that nature ever intended that
they should shine in that fascinating recreation. The male Maori
never condescends to dance. They are amused spectators at others
making an exhibition of themselves.
Dr. Featherston was of course amongst those in 1850 who took
a prominent part in the discussions on the question of the proposed
Constitution, joining heartily with Fox, Stafford, Fitzherbert, Munroe,

136
and others in the battle of the colonists to exact from the Home
Government a full concession of the right and privilege of self-
government. I once heard it said by an old identity "that the province
of WeUington owed more to the three ' F's ' (Fox, Featherston, and
Fitzherbert) than to any other trio of settlers that had ever landed in
the province." These three men were men of ability and culture,
and had come to the colony with money in their pockets. I think it
might be said of Dr. Featherston that he was as complete a
representative of " thorough " as New Zealand ever saw. He was
diplomatic, but he was honest. He would select his own time and
opportunity to declare his views and intentions ; but he never
condescended to the littleness of deception. He called himself a
liberal in politics ; but he was often spoken of as autocratic in his
government of the province. He loved his own way certainly,
sincerely believing that his way was the right way ; and was not in the
least careful to conceal from the world that he thought sufficiently of
himself The last official position that he occupied was that of Agent-
General for New Zealand. It was said of him, that during his tenure
of this office he was difficult to manage. That he sometimes failed
to realize that he was sent to England to represent the colony ; and
that he was not over ready to take his instructions from a Ministry
responsible to Parliament. It was also said of him, at the same time,
that he was highly spoken of in the old country by those going to hira
for information about the colony, and that his inteUigence and tact
were highly appreciated by the Imperial authorities.
A writer in a Wellington newspaper, twenty-eight years ago,
-wrote thus of another of the three "F's" —
" On this occasion Fitzherbert spoke very unequally, not alw-ays
consulting the patience of the House ; but he always spoke
instructively, and in his happier efforts w-as most felicitous. His
speech on the night when the Fox Ministry went out was the best
speech delivered during tlie session. Polished, classical,- sententious,
and cuttingly sarcastic ; exhibiting both the gentleman and the scholar.
His great forte is in illustration and sarcasm, the latter the most
cutting I ever listened to. He is a great actor too, though he never
condescends to buffoonery."
Mr. FitzGerald, Canterbury's first Superintendent, was last seen
in Canterbury on the 21st of September, 1881. He came then as
the representative of the administration and the legislature, to

'37
attend the funeral of his old political opponent, WJlliam Sefton
Moorhouse. " It was an appropriate choice ; for many reasons most
graceful." Men of all shades of opinion were to be found in the
crowd that followed his remains to tbe grave. " The tolling of bells
was accompanied by whispers of sympathy for the great heart that
had been so brave and resolute." It was felt that his life " was the
story of a great mind working out a great object with inflexible
greatness of resolution." It was said with great truth, " That he had
forced the people to lift their eyes from the ground and to fix them
on the future with firm belief" The last few lines, traced by the
friendly hand that penned the above extracts, are the foUowing : —
" We have the statute of John Robert Godley, Canterbury's founder.
We ought to have the statue of the author of Canterbury's rapid
progress, William Sefton Moorhouse."
One of the first settlements that the New Zealand Company are
to be credited with establishing, is Nelson. It had not the never-to-
be-too-highly-estimated advantages of Canterbury and Otago in the
quality of its soil, within easy reach of its provincial centre ; and thus
it could not, like these fair and fat lands, absorb a large number of
agriculturalists. But it had a climate second to none in New Zealand.
It has supplied almost more than its fair proportion of able and
educated men, who have distinguished themselves in the service of
the colony. Stafford, Weld, BeU, Domett, Monro, Major Richmond, Saun
ders, and others, belong more or less to Nelson. Of the political
work done by these men it is not my business to make a lengthy
record. Sir Edward Stafford still lives recreating himself in the old
country after a long political service.
Sir Frederick Weld is still in harness, ruling with a light touch
the mixed population of the Straits Settlements. And Sir Francis
Dillon Bell is showing good form as Agent-General for the colony ;
proving to the world the folly of saying, that because a man is
brilUant by nature, and has a refined taste, he is not very likely to be
a good man of business. He has always been a thoroughly-occupied
man from the day he arrived in New Zealand, having had to do with
large business transactions as well as with the politics of the country.
Quite recentiy he has given proof to men occupying high places in

138
the official world at home, that he is as able and diplomatic as the
best of them. Many opinions at the time of his appointment were
hazarded as to his special fitness for the position of Agent-General ;
but the papers penned by him upon the questions connected with
annexation and federation, rightly spoken of as State documents,
have dispelled all notion of his unfitness for such work, and have
established his reputation as a statesman and a diplomatist. He was
well known in both Houses of Parliament as a graceful and fluent
speaker. There was a perfection of finish about all the work that he
turned out, in little matters as well as in great, that caused men to
say of him that he was an accomplished and many-sided man.
Whilst in England he has steadily applied himself to the work that he
undertook to do. His successful floating of the first instalment of
the last loan in January, 1883, will not soon be forgotten. And his
admirable paper on colonial indebtedness, read before the Colonial
Institute, opened a new view to the English public of the resources
of the Australasian colonies.
The (London) Times newspaper, in reviewing the position of New
Zealand only a few months ago, published the following figures : —
"In 1872 the imports of the whole colony were valued at
;^5, 102,951 ; in 1882 they had risen to ;^8,6og,27o; the exports in
1872 were valued at ;^S, 190,665 ; and in 1882 they had risen to-
^6,658,008. The population is now about half a miUion ; in 1874
it was 295,808."
In the negotiations between the Agents-General for the colonies-
and the Colonial Office, he is considered to have occupied the first
place. The memorandum submitted for the consideration of Lord
Derby being spoken of as an able and " skilful document." Such
men seem never to grow old. It would interest and enlighten the
world, as well as his many friends, to know the secret of this weU
sustained vigour and brilliancy. It is one more proof that continued
work is the best as well as the truest life that a man can devote
himself to.
Mr. Domett is equally well known to all who have had to do-
with political life in New Zealand ; and happily still lives to enjoy
a well-earned retirement from official and political life. He is also-
known to men, who in their hours of idleness, have the good taste to
turn over the pages of poetry. I know not to what extent he indulged
in the exercise of his poetic faculty ; but his " Ranolf and Amoia ""

139
is pronounced by critics to be a remarkable poem. This poem is
founded on one of the legends, a pathetic story, translated by Sir George
Grey, and published in his " Polynesian Mythology and Ancient
Traditional History of the New Zealand Race." His state papers,
written during his official and parliamentary life, are stiU pointed out
as models of what state papers ought to be. In Parliament he was
not often heard, but when he did speak, the House was enlightened
as weU as gratified ; and he was often spoken of as a very useful, a
very cultivated, and a very interesting man. He had no patience in
listening to a professor of clap-trap, airing his political nostrums
before the House ; made no attempt, indeed, to control himself when
a man was obviously running away from the point at issue, and took
pleasure in looking through a small hole at a large question. He
would at such times fidget about in his seat, make a face and jerk
out a very audible " aside " expressing contempt. One fancied one
could sometimes hear the echo of such words as " rot," " bosh,"
" bumbledom." Those who know him intimately never grow weary
of speaking of the great charm of his manner, and of the varied
treasures of his mind.
I have written of these early settlers as belonging to Nelson,
That was a mistake. They belonged to the colony ; but were I a
Nelson man, I should never allow New Zealand to forget that, with
these able and accomplished men Nelson has had the honour of a
long and close connection.
Taranaki is another of the New Zealand Company's settiements,
and another of the so-caUed small provinces of New Zealand. ' It
also contributed a large number of able men to the Parliament of
the colony. One of its most highly gifted settiers, a man who held
office in the first long-lived ministry in New Zealand, is Judge
Richmond, who I am quite sure has not yet quite ft)rgotten that he
came from the foot of Mount Egmont, and who, very likely, still
thinks fondly of the beautiful district that the settiers of Taranaki
never tire in sounding the praises of
The present Premier, Major Atkinson, also hails from this fertUe
spot. Many of us in the south have been inclined to think and say
that Taranaki has had more than its fair share of financial fondUng
and representation in the Pariiament of the colony. We must not

140
forget, however, that when the representation of provinces was first
adjusted, that relatively to the other provinces, Taranaki occupied a
very different position from what it has since held. And further,
that it has sought to make amends for the privUege of a too liberal
representation by sending to Parliament capable men.

CHAPTER XVII.
Court Scene — Deafness — Miss Rye.
I WONDER how many of my friends have heard the following story.
A squatter had a neighbour whom he suspected of appropriating his
sheep. It would perhaps be nearer the truth to say of these two
neighbours that each suspected the other. These disputes and dis
agreements finally culminated in a Court scene, long spoken of as a
most attractive burlesque. The one simply charged the other with
taking what did not belong to him. Before the magistrate, he stated
the facts and circumstances implicating, as he considered, his neigh
bour, and wound up exclaiming, " Now, your worship, I mean to say
this, that if your inside could speak, it would at this moment declare
to you in plain terms that you have been living on my mutton,
supplied to you for the past two years by that apology for a man,
whom I am, indeed, ashamed to be seen in company with by your
worship." The magistrate, greatly shocked at this novel mode of
conducting a case, warned the excited squatter to restrain himself,
and to be very careful not to use language calculated to provoke a
breach of the peace. " A breach of the peace, your worship ! Now
do you really think that anything that mortal man could say or do
would make that fellow fight ? Well, if you had seen as much of
him as I have, and knew him as well as I know him, you would not
need to be told that the only weapon that feUows like him are fit- to
ha:ndle is a cabbage-tree, hoUowed out, and loaded to the muzzle with
the sweepings of a sheep-yard." The last scene growing out of this
PoUce Court burlesque was, that the excited squatter, on finding
himself outside of the precincts of the Court, offered the presiding
magistrate a cheque for ;^2oo if he would just get out of the way or
shut his eyes that he might with impunity take it out of his enemy.
I have more than once submitted patiently to be examined and
operated upon by men professing to effect cures in cases of deafness,
and I wish I was in a position to say that I have been permanently
benefited by any of them. One of these self-styled " professors "
entertained as well as plundered me. On the occasion referred to, I
was addressed in the street by a shabby-looking man with a bundle

142
of papers in his hand. Blocking the way and raising his hat, he said,
" Pardon me, sir, but it has become known to me that you have been
weak enough to allow an impostor to operate on you for deafness,
and that, like many others equally credulous, you have been made to
pay for your experience ;" continuing, " I would have given almost
anything to have been a little earlier on the ground to prevent the
shameful imposture." " But who are you, sir," said I, " who seem
inclined to take so friendly an interest in a complete stranger?"
" Allow me to present my card," said he ; " that is my name and
profession ; these," handing me the papers, " are my certificates and
credentials." " Tell me," said I, " before going any further, who
made you a professor? who gave you a right or license to go
about the country proclaiming your own infallibility and denouncing
all others as impostors ? Are you a self-constituted professor, or
do you hold a diploma from any recognised society or institution ?"
" Sir," said he, " I am what these papers and documents certify
to ; oblige me by looking through them." On taking the papers
from his hand, I remarked, "Are these aU? The last man
who came this way shearing stray sheep had three times the
number." " Sir," said he, " only give me an opportunity of examin
ing you. It will not take many minutes ; and most likely your
hearing will be restored." " WeU," said I, " there is a charming
simplicity about your proposed style of treatment. But to come to
the point, what is it all t6 cost ? " "I will cure you for ;£^. Will that
be too much to charge for a perfect cure ? " " By no means," said I,
" had you asked ten times three I should have been more inclined to
believe in you. I would willingly give that and more, if you
succeeded in curing me of my deafness. And in addition be ready
to spend some part of the remainder of my life in going about
proclaiming the efficacy and thoroughness of your treatment ; but as
there is nothing in this world certain, but the end of it, what do you
expect to receive if you fail in your attempt, as all others have failed?"
" Well then, sir, will .;j^i be too much to ask? " " Much too much,"
said I, " if you do nothing but look wise, talk confidently, and
promise more than you can perform." " Ah sir,'' said he, " I wish
you would treat the matter seriously ; but of course all this comes of
your having been so shamefuUy imposed upon." " And," added I,
" accounts also for my disinclination to be again taken in ? Well,"
said I, " I am almost in a mood to play the fool once more ; but

143
understand distinctly, that I do so that I may be able to complete a
good story. I have, however, one regret in connection with this
matter, and that is, that you have not got hold of someone else in my
place to practice upon. As a spectator and witness to your per
formance, in such a case I should have thoroughly enjoyed the
joke, without the Uttle drawback of having had to pay for my
entertainment.'' I then foUowed him into his hotel, and sat down as desired.
Opening a small box he drew out of it one of the tiniest of smaU
bottles, containing when full, less than a third of what would be
required to fill a wine glass. Holding this up in a strong light, he
exclaimed, "This bottle contains an essence worth ,;^iooo." " Dear
me," said I, " how well off you are, and how exceedingly liberal of you
to be ready to bestow upon me so many drops of the golden essence."
" Now, sir, allow me," dropping three or four drops into one ear and
as many into the other. This done, he asked me how I felt. " Not
much worse yet," said I ; " but wait awhile, is not it a Uttle too soon
to expect results ?" In less than five minutes he took up a newspaper,
placing himself behind me, and began to read in a natural tone of voice ;
I could just hear him. He then increased the distance between us,
reading again ; I stUl heard him, but faintly. Lowering his voice, he
read again, and without waiting to ask if I had heard him, he threw
up his arms, exclaiming vehemently, " Thank heaven, you are cured."
" It hasn't taken long, has it ?" said I ; "it seems to me that the
practice of this profession of yours is an entertainment of the first
order ; all apparently that is needed on the part of the professor is
lots of self-confidence, and on the part of the simpleton submitting
to be operated on, a sense of humour, enabling him to sit quiet
during your manipulation of him. Good-bye ; I wonder if I shall
see you again ; if not, and I am cured, I will travel all over New
Zealand proclaiming your cleverness, and if not cured, you having
proved no wiser than your predecessors, I will assert in your favour
that I am really not much the worse of your treatment.''
I think it was in the year 1863 that Canterbury was visited by
Miss Rye, a lady whose mission was to see to the settlement of young
girls introduced into the provinces of Canterbury and Otago. Miss
Rye, well fitted for the work that she had undertaken, did nearly all
that was necessary to promote the settlement and comfort of the
young people under her charge ; but she erred somewhat in ignoring

144
the existence or past services of ladies resident in Christchurch who,
before her advent, had done much and were quite willing and ready
to do more in the interest of immigrant girls as they arrived in the
province. And this clever, well-educated, well-intentioned, pubUc-
spirited spinster made a second and a more serious mistake in dream
ing that anything worth talking about could be accomplished without
taking the men into her confidence. One of the most experienced
of the ladies resident in Christchurch told her that women might
meet, might discuss matters, and pass resolutions ; but that after all,
the men who would have to find the money to enable them to cany
out their little plans would certainly expect to be consulted in the
matter of expenditure ; and that the sooner she could make up her
mind to take the men into her confidence, the better for the success
of her plans and projects. Yielding to this sound advice, she con
sented to call a meeting of the wives, who had distinguished them
selves by joining' in " a vote of confidence " in their husbands, as
though she wished to take counsel of them ; but the impression
produced on their minds was that the lady seemed less anxious to
consult with than to dictate to them.
Miss Rye visited Dunedin as well as Christchurch, encountering
men who, as she thought, were rather fond of having their own way.
She honoured us with a visit at Raukapuka, where she was prevailed
upon to stay a few days.
Accompanying her on her return to Christchurch overland, we
had somewhat of an adventure. As ill-luck would have it, we had
but proceeded a short distance when one of the wheels of the coach
went smash. There we were, stuck up in the Rangitata river-bed,
with no way of getting over the river for three or four hours except
on horseback. There were two horses alnd two saddles, but no side
saddle. Had there been a side-saddle, I should have hesitated to
recommend the lady to face the stream, for I knew from experience
that she could speak and write better than she could ride. On telUng
her that we had to make the best of a bad business, she showed some
impatience, declaring that what men seemed well able to do she ought to
be allowed to attempt. I told her that there was no side-saddle, and
that for her to attempt to ride over the river in the state it was on a
man's saddle was out of the question. But I made littie impression
on her. She persisted in saying, " Surely it is possible ; I should so
like to try ; do let me, Mr. Cox." At last I said, "Well lady, by way

145
of experiment, let me see whether you could hold on to the horse
sitting in front of me." I then lifted her into position and gently
moved the horse on a pace or two on dry land. So tar nothing had
happened ; but the beast of a horse putting down his head to drink
at a small pool, off" went my fair friend, narrowly escaping a sousing.
Helping her on to her feet, I said, " Now, Miss Rye, there is but one
other way, and that is quite in the nature of an experiment also, and
not a little hazardous. You must just jump up behind me, wind
your arms round my waist, put away all folly and nonsense as to the
supposed proprieties, and hold on with a determination not to be
parted from me. There is no doubt as to the horse's reaching the
other side of the river ; I mean to stick to the horse, and all you
have to do is to stick to me." I then put the horse into the main
stream ; it was fordable, and that was about all that could be honestly
said of it. ^^'e had not proceeded far before I asked myself whether
I was not attempting a foolish feat. But there was no retreating, and
over the river -n-e struggled, the water proving deeper and more rapid,
and the bed of the river much rougher than I had expected. During
the passage over, my fair friend never moved, sat perfectly silent ; but
when we were safely landed, she sighed and said, " I think, Mr. Cox,
it was a dangerous experiment.''
The story of our crossing the Rangitata river after the fashion
narrated soon reached Christchurch, and was not long in being im
proved upon. A lady friend, meeting me in the street shortly after,
said, " Mr. Cox, do tell me is it reaUy true that Miss Rye, when you
told her to jump up behind you and wind her arms round your waist,
and not to mind what people might think as you were an old married
man, smirked and smiled, and exclaimed, ' Oh, fie, Mr. Cox ! ' Now
if she said that, or anything like it, you ought to have dropped her
into deep water."
This visit to New Zealand by Miss Rye was followed by the
appearance in Canterbury of two other ladies similarly commissioned
— Miss Rowe and Miss Weal. Hence it was said :
' ' First came Rye,
Then came Rowe,
Followed by -Weal,
And hence came woe. "
On my again meeting Miss Rye after an interval of some
months, she told me that her friends in England, to whom she had
L

146
written an account of our adventure in crossing the river, had con
sidered that she had run a very great risk. " But, lady," said I,
why need you have told your friends my age ? I thought that that
had been a secret between us." " Leave me," said she, " until you
are in a mood to talk sense. What a pity it is that when a man has
been blessed with brains that he does not make a proper use of
them I"

CHAPTER XVIII.
1867 — Sir George Grey.
In the year 1867, Sir George Grey, at that time Governor of New
Zealand, visited the South Island. I think it was understood at the
time that he had not been in Canterbury since the year 1850 or 185 1,
when, as Governor, he appeared at LytteUon, just before the arrival
of the first ships freighted with Canterbury pilgrims.
On the occasion of this second visit he was enthusiasticaUy
received by a multitude of people, composed of all sections of the
community. Many of those gathered together to do honour to the
representative of Her Majesty, longed to look upon the man whom
they had so often heard spoken of as an explorer, a scientific man,
and as one of the most successful of Governors throughout the
British dominions. And they were more than pleased when they
heard him express his atonishment at the many proofs Of progress and
prosperity visible around him. He paid a well-earned compliment to
the intelligence and enterprise of the founders of the Canterbury
settlement, and to the men who had helped to make it what it had
become ; and for thus speaking he was vociferously applauded.
After visiting Christchurch and its immediate neighbourhood, he
travelled overland to Timaru, resting on his way at our house. He
was accompanied in this trip by Major Richardson (one of his
Ministers), and also by Mr. Moorhouse (the Superintendent of Canter
bury) and the Provincial Secretary. I rode over to the Rangitata
river to meet him, taking with me two of my boys and two of my
girls. He was not a little amused as this cavalcade paraded before
him, twitting me with what he called " the barbaric splendour of my
retinue.'' Noticing that my eldest boy was mounted on a lively little
mare, he asked to be aUowed to ride for the remainder of the journey,
and when mounted, moved along at a pace that warmed him up
after his long drive. On the foUowing morning, as the trap was drawn
up at the door ready to receive him, my son George, a boy of six
years of age, put his hand into Sir George's and asked to be taken to
Timaru. I frowned disapproval, and said, " Nonsense, boy, only men
are wanted in Timaru." But Sir George, loving chUdren of aU ages

148
•with an unbounded love, could not resist the earnest appeal, and
bundled him into the trap, and for five-and-twenty miles out and half
that distance back, put up with the inconvenience of the urchin. On
passing through the township of Temuka, the Governor was welcomed
by Europeans and Maoris — the latter being highly delighted at being
addressed by him in their own language. Children from all parts of
the country were gathered together to receive him, singing " God
save the Queen " on his approach, and with bunches of flowers in
their hands formed a pretty feature — a fringe to the body of grown
people drawn across the road to welcome him. He spoke at some
length to the Maoris, assuring them that their interests were safe in
the hands of the ruling race ; and forgot not to address a few kindly
words to the little ones, who were quick enough to discover his sym
pathetic regard for them. For this he was rewarded with smiles and
with more flowers than he well knew what to do with. The boy George
took them into his keeping, but soon wearying of them, bundled
them back into Sir George's lap, saying " Here, take back your
flowers." His reception in Timaru by people from the surrounding districts
was as enthusiastic as it had been in Christchurch. He addressed
them at some length, speaking wise and pleasant words. His words
are worth reproducing. He said : — " One reason why I feel great
pleasure in coming amongst you is that this colony is what may be
called a colony without blame. Our greatest enemies cannot say that
anyone ever came here either to destroy the native race or to seize
their land. Our worst detractors cannot say that Timaru has been
built upon the fruits of any warlike achievements, or that you have
ever robbed the mother country to pay for what you have accom
plished. Those who came here brought with them the Christian
religion, English laws, and English manners. Their object was to
found a great nation. No nation has had the same pure religion and
the same just and equitable laws combined." It may be safely said
of Sir George Grey, the Governor, that on occasions such as this, no
one better knew what to say, or how and when to say it.
On the following day, Sir George started for Christchurch, leav- '
ing behind him in the south, in the minds of men women, and
children, a very favourable impression. I saw him again in Christ
church before his departure for Otago, when he again expressed
himself well pleased with what he had seen, and very much gratified

149
at his warm reception by all sections of the community. In his
dispatch to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, written in Christ
church before his leaving the province, dated January, 1867, the
Governor says : — " I trouble your Lordship on this subject because I
am sure it will gratify you to hear from me that the province of
Canterbury has made, and continues to make, the most rapid progress
in wealth and prosperity of every kind ; and because I am also well
awai-e that it will please )0u to learn how contented, happy, and
prosperous Her Majesty's subjects in this portion of her dominions
are, and how- deep a feeling of loyalty the)- cherish to Her Majesty's
person and throne." To the citizens of Christchurch he also spoke
loyally of the constant efforts of the General Assembly and his
responsible advisers to maintain the peace which then prevailed
between the two races of Her Majesty's subjects. And to the men
of Lyttelton, also, in referring to his responsible advisers, he spoke of
their being zealously and unceasingly engaged in measures calculated
to promote the happiness and welfare of the people.
During this visit to Canterbury, he crossed the Alps to the West
Coast, at that time included within the limits of the Canterbury
province, where he was also received with something like enthusiasm ;
and in acknowledging their expressions of loyalty and attachment, he
spoke proudl}- and emphatically of them as " a thoroughly loyal,
prosperous, and contented people ;" '' a new and prosperous colony,"
where " a perfect contentment prevails ;'' saying, in conclusion, that
he " knew of no greater pleasure than the having aided in establish
ing such large and prosperous communities, and witnessing the
content and prosperity of their inhabitants."
On leaving Canterbury, His Excellency visited Otago, where he
was as loyally and enthusiastically received as he had been throughout
Canterbury. Addresses were presented to him in his progress through
the province. He congratulated the men and rulers of Otago upon
being not unmindful of the higher and more intellectual objects and
pursuits in the midst of the trials and excitements incident to the first
stage of settlement, saying, " I ever believed that a bright and pros
perous future lay before the province of Otago."
Again, in Marlborough and in Nelson, he is reported to have
been equally well received. There also, he spoke out distinctly and
enthusiastically of the many visible signs of prosperity ; of " their
rapid advances in all the elements of material wealth ;" and of the

15°
efforts made by their rulers to " provide ample means of a higher
order of education." The Citizens' Mutual Improvement Association
in Nelson addressed him in verse, welcoming him to the city,
speaking of his visit as "fanning the flame of loyalty in every
breast ;" and of himself personally, as the representative of the
monarch, as " the honoured golden link that truly joined them to the
Fatherland ;" admitting and acknowledging that the islands of New
Zealand had been " long dear to his heart ; that he had toiled inces
santly to make them great ;" and, in conclusion, wishing him " health
and happiness, and power to realise his plans of earnest love to man
in many ways."
In all of the replies made to addresses presented in the South
Island is perceptible the same loyal desire to do justice to the inten
tions of the legislature of the coWny, and to the administrative acts
of his responsible advisers. His progress throughout the South
Island, north and south, was an ovation from first to last.
A -writer in the Press newspaper at the time, thus -writes of him : —
" No matter how much we have disagreed with Sir George Grey, it is
gratifying to feel that we know how, at the proper time, to lay aside
all such recollections, and to welcome His Excellency as the represen
tative of the Queen. But apart from this, he has won the respect of
the community, in the first place, because he has impressed all who
have approached him with the conviction that he has always acted
from a deep sense of public duty, and that he had shrunk from no
personal toil or danger to win back the Natives to their allegiance,
and to put an end to the feeling of hostility between the Native and
European races in the North Island." The same writer also speaks
of the obligations under which he had laid every colonist of New
Zealand for his defence of them when they were slanderously attacked
in the matter of dealing with the Natives, continuing : — " It was often
said that Sir George Grey was sent to New Zealand to govern the
Natives, not the Europeans ; and that, to a certain extent, was true.
The Europeans, under the institutions which we now are working,
want very little governing. The Natives, at that time, wanted — and
perhaps still want — a great deal : a great deal of that sort of govern
ment which can only spring out of attachment to and confidence in
a person." At the public entertainment given to him in Christchurch, in
reply to the speech of the chairman, he said : — " I can hardly find

151
words to thank you. Everything is so different to what it was when
I last visited the country, that I feel great difficulty in recognising my
position. I am almost inclined to compare myself to Rip van Winkle.
I am sure that I must have slept a great number of years, and have
come back to a place that I ought to know well ; but when I look
round, I am bewildered by the many changes that meet me on every
side. Well, gentlemen, all I can say is that I reaUy feel myself one
of you. I feel proud of the men who have taken a part in the estab
lishment of this new country, and have built up a home for future
miUions ; such men have done a great work, of which they may well
be proud ;" going on to say that the value of what had been done
" would ultimately be fully recognised — that it would at last be known
that that colony was no unworthy scion of the greatest empire the
world has ever seen, and that we wel-e worthy of the race from whence
we had sprung."
In speaking of the province of Canterbury, he playfully said that
the present position of Canterbury was strikingly suggestive of the
"Ugly Duckling," in Andersen's fairy tales. Let us see whether the
touching tale cannot be dramatised and adapted, so as to illustrate
the rise and progress of the Canterbury settlement :
Persons Represented.
I. The Ugly Duckling ... ... ... ... ... Canterbury.
2. The Old Duck (Ugly Duckling's mother) ... ... ... England.
3. An Old Turkey-cock (a friend of the family) Governor of New Zealand.
^ . , , _ , I Auckland, -Wellington, Taranaki,
4. Others of the Brood  | Nelson, and Otago.
Once upon a time, in days gone by, somewhere about the year
1850, there was an old duck whose chief business in life seemed to
be to bring into the world broods of ducklings. In her last brood
there had been one longer in coming out of the sheU than the others,
and when it had at last appeared it was found to be very ugly. But
its old mother, and some of the wisest of her friends, did not love it
the less on that account. " At any rate," said she, " it is not the son
of a turkey ; see how well he uses his legs and wings, how upright he
holds himself He is my own child, and not so very ugly after all, if
you look at him aU over." This last-hatched littie creature could
swim very weU, so she knew that it had no connection with her friend

the old turkey, and she took it with aU the rest of the brood to the
farm-yard to introduce it into good society. The old turkey, who
had been born into the world with spurs, and was really very grand,
fancying himself an emperor, puffed himself up like a vessel in fuU
sail, and flew at the duckling, becoming quite red in the face with
passion. The old turkey couldn't help it, indeed, for he had been
cock of the walk so long in more than one remote place. When he
looked upon the assembled brood, he said to the old mother, " Your
ducklings are aU well grown and interesting except one. There is
one ugly duckling. I wish you could improve him a little." " That
is impossible, your excellency," replied the mother ; " he may not be
much to look at yet, but wait awhile ; he has a good disposition, is
self-reliant, and swims better than the others." " Well," said the old
turkey, " I don't much like the look of him ; the other ducklings are
something to be proud of" Not only did this ruler of the colonial
roost speak thus disparagingly of him, but all the rest of the brood
dared to laugh at him and peck him, and felt in a mood to extinguish
him. Meanwhile, ugly duckling grew apace. Still the others said
of him, " You are very ugly, but it doesn't much matter, we shall
never admit that you are one of the family." \A'hen the poor duck
ling first expressed a desire to leave home, the old mother said,
" What a foolish idea !" The cock turkey exclaimed, " How perfectly
absurd !" " You neither of you understand me," said the ugly duck
ling, " I want to set up in the world for myself" " \^ery well, go,''
said the fond old mother, and my blessing go with you.'' The
duckling went out into the world of waters, never resting untU it
found itself snugly sheltered in the harbour of port Lyttelton.
Stepping on shore, the first sight that struck him was the old turkey,
who stood on the beach and wondered, declaring that, at any rate, he
was not going to be made responsible for the success of the settie
ment, and left the courageous creature to its own resources for
seventeen years. His next acquaintance with it was in 1867, and in
looking upon it, what did he behold ? Not a dark-grey ugly duckling,
but a beautiful swan, that he was forced to admit was the pride and
beauty of the New Zealand farm-yard. To have been born in a
duck's nest does not matter to a bird, if it has come from a swan's
egg. Now that he was a swan, the old mother would love him the
more ; the rest of the brood would be proud of him ; and the old
cock-turkey would have to give up pecking him.

153
At this entertainment was the Superintendent, Mr. Moorhouse,
who, in reply to his health being drunk, said : — " This is indeed the
proudest day I have ever seen in Canterbury, for I have seen all men
in the province rising like one man to do honour to their Governor;"
adding that he hoped to see His ExceUency some day holding as-
eminent a position at home in Her Majesty's Government as he held
here, that the great knowledge and experience for which he was
distinguished might be exercised on a wider scale.
Sir George Grey, during this period of his rule, seemed fully to
realise the position of a representative of a Constitutional ruler ;
seeking and taking the advice of his responsible advisers ; identifying
himself with his Ministry and their policy, and bravely and persis
tently fighting the battle of the colonists when ignorant and preju
diced men aimed a blow at their honour, by misrepresenting them in
the matter of their treatment of the native race. In his dispatch to
the Secretary of State in dealing with this matter, he writes lengthUy,
thus speaking : — " Moreover, others are concerned in this question —
viz., my present Ministers and the General Assembly — men who have
given me the most loyal and generous aid in many difficulties. I
cannot give them up. I have defended them as well as myself; my
defence of them I cannot withdraw, so long as the accusations
invested with authority stand recorded in your office against them."
On the announcement of Governor Grey's recall or retirement
firom the Governorship of New Zealand, the two Houses of Parlia
ment presented addresses acknowledging his many services to the
colony. These addresses, with his replies, are to be read in extenso
in the records of Parliament.
In his reply to the address presented by the Legislative Council,
he speaks proudly of the efforts made by them " to secure the main
tenance of the honour and authority of the Crown, and the welfare
of Her Majesty's subjects of both races," going on^to say that " none
can deny that a great and heroic work has been performed in this
country." Again, " In the midst of difficulties of a most unusual
kind, men — many of whom were distinguished by birth and intel
lectual and physical endowments of no common order — have each in
their vocation, by enterprise, toil, and sufi"ering, continued through
long years, laid the stable foundation of a great Anglo-Saxon nation.
Men who have so laboured together may well leave their fame and
reputation to the grateful millions who will follow them, and for

154
whom they have in truth laboured. Associated, as I have been,
with you in so great a work for so many years, it is with sorrow that I
find that the public ties which have bound us together are to be rent
asunder. But it will be much to remember that one of your last acts
has been to present me with an address of which any Governor might
weU feel proud."
The following is an extract from the address presented by the
House of Representatives : — " In asserting the honour of the Crown,
and maintaining the position of the Governor as representative of the
Crown, and the constitutional rights of the colony, as well as in
vindicating its character from unjust aspersion, your Excellency has
put aside all personal considerations, and has not been dismayed by
menace or misrepresentation. This spirit of self-sacrifice has well
earned for your Excellency the gratitude of the colony, and we feel
sure that when the passions of the moment have passed away, and
personal feeling and prejudice no longer obscure the perception of
the distinction between right and -wrong, it will be universally admitted
that your Excellency has, in the interests of honour and justice,
fulfilled a duty to the Crown which you represented and to the colony
which you governed.''
It will thus be seen that neither the people nor their representa
tives in Parliament had forgotten, nor had any wish to forget, the
good service done by him in 1865, when he buckled on his sword,
planned the attack, and led the colonial forces, composed of Europeans
and friendly Natives, in the capture of the \^'ereroa pa. On this
occasion he is said to have shown great courage and capacity. " He
reconnoitred the pa in person, exposing himself fearlessly within
range of the enemy's fire ; formed his plan of attack with a skiU that
excited the enthusiastic admiration of his gaUant aUies ; and carried
it out with a promptitude and vigour that ensured success. It was a
piece of generalship that will earn for him golden opinions from all
parts of the colony, and go a long way towards obliterating the
remembrance of other less happy events in his career as Governor of
New Zealand." Thus wrote the Press of him and his doings on the
announcement of the success of the colonial and native troops.
. This closes the career of Sir George Grey as a Governor. In
that responsible position he had served his country, its Sovereign, and
her people for a period extending over twenty-five years or more.
Although there had been late occasions when he was very far from

155
being of one mind with his Ministry under responsible government,
and times when he was unfavourably regarded in some of the settle
ments over which he had been placed in authority ; and one great
occasion, when the early settiers of Canterbury felt aggrieved at his
exercise of authority in proclaiming land for sale at los. an acre out
side of the Canterbury block, whilst they were making an effort to
dispose of land within the block at ^3 an acre, he retired, as we
have seen, from the position of Governor of New Zealand with the
thanks of the Legislature and of the people for his late obvious desire
to defend them. Some of those who highly prized his reputation as
an able Governor, regretted keenly that he ever stepped on to the
platform of party poUtics, and seemed so soon to forget much that he
had eloquently uttered in speaking of the leading men engaged in
the politics of the country. Thus it has come about that not all men
now speak enthusiasticaUy of the man who, as a Governor, earned a
reputation for such extraordinary ability and devotion to the cause of
the public. I am striving not to write as a partisan in politics, or in that
spirit, of men engaged in them. Of Sir George Grey's career as a
party-political man, I am in no mood to write ; such a work will no
doubt in due time be undertaken; and when it shall be, let us hope
that his biographer will conscientiously endeavour to write of him
and of his times — of his struggles and hopes — of his successes and
his failures — in a judicial spirit. I doubt whether, at the present
time, whilst he is still actively engaged in the fray of party politics, a
man amongst us could be found fit to be trusted to do strict justice
to such a life. Those who are sufficiently well-informed of his past
and present political life are either blind idolators of his character, or
are deeply imbued with a party political spirit, hostile to him, and
opposed to his principles and opinions. In neither of these sections
of his contemporaries would it be wise to look fpr a faithful and
judicially-minded historian.
The last interesting announcement relating to this remarkable
man is, that he has bound himself over to total abstinence for t-welve
months. The Timaru Herald thus concludes an article upon the
¦subject : — " The scene of Sir George Grey taking the pledge and the
blue ribbon, with the Maori king and his attendant chiefs, at the
Kawau, would make a fine subject for a colonial historical picture."
That is the last reference to Sir George Grey, in connection with

156
the Natives of New Zealand, that I intend to make in these my
" Recollections.'' Let us see what he himself thought and said of
them in 1845, when he was first entrusted with the responsibility of
governing them.
In his preface to " Polynesian Mythology and Ancient Traditional
History of the New Zealand race,'' Sir George Grey speaks of his first
experiences in New Zealand, and of his quick discovery of the
hopelessness of his succeeding in governing the Maoris whilst in utter
ignorance of their language, manners, customs, religion, and modes-
of thought. Realising this very strongly, he lost" no time in setting
about the study of the language of the Maoris, their manners,
customs, and prejudices. \\'ith what result is well known to many
who have heard him address them in their native tongue. This
obvious desire, on his part, to understand them, and to make himself
understood by them, soon produced the result of their confiding in
him, and submitting to be influenced by him.
One of his first discoveries was that they h.id what he speaks of
as an " Ancient System of Mythology,'' and that there was traceable
in their speeches and letters frequent reference to ancient poems or
proverbs. His translations of these legends, traditions, and mythical
prayers, occupied all his spare time, and were finally published under
the title of " Polynesian Mythology." He speak.s of these legends as
puerile, but not much more so than other systems of Mythology,
Saxon, Celtic, and Scandinavian, that have interested the now
civilized world. He conjectures that they prevailed during 2000 )-eais
or more throughout the great mass of the islands of the Pacific Ocean.
And that, probably, the religious system of ancient Mexico was to
some extent connected with them ; and that they were based upon a
system of human sacrifices to the gods. But he holds that the native
races who believe in these traditioi-is or superstitions are in no way
deficient in intellect, and in no respect incapable of receiving the
truths of Christianity, which under the teaching of European
missionaries, they readily embraced, and were more or less influenced
by. I very much wish that I could put my hand on a work written
by Sir George Grey, giving an account of his early explorations in
Western Australia. 1 once owned the book. I think that there is
some attempt made in it to trace the germ of a system of mythology
amongst the aborigines of Australia. This carefully-written account
of his explorations along the coast of Western Australia involved

157
considerable hardship, pluckily faced by the young explorer. They
were followed up by other more or less successful attempts to lay
bare the latent resources of the great continent of Australia.
The Rev. Julius E. Tenison Woods in his " Discovery and
Explorations of Australia," devotes two chapters to Captain Grey
(now Sir George). In the account given, we read that Captain Grey,
of the 83rd, and Lieut. Lushington addressed a letter to Lord Glenelg,
then Secretary for the Colonies, offering to conduct an expedition
from Swan River to the northward, in order to ascertain definitely
whether any large river emptied itself upon the west or north-west
side. Their offer was accepted, and the exploring party set out.
The graphic account of the several trips made is exceedingly
interesting, although the results were not very important. In coasting
along the north-west coast they were becalmed, "Grey burning to
commence his explorations, and regardless of his being quite unused
to tropical climates, and thinking nothing of salt-water-inlets and
hostile savages, conceived the mad idea of walking round the beach
and meeting the schooner at the bottom of the bay. He landed
¦with a few men and some dogs. Scarcely had the boat returned
when he found out his mistake. The day was clear and hot, and the
sun threw down a scorching heat upon the fiery-red rocks around
them. Cooped up in a vessel for many months as they had been,
they could not walk far in a temperate region ; but here where the
stones and sand were so hot that one could scarcely walk upon them,
where not a breath of wind freshened the air, nor a single tree gave them
shelter, one can easily imagine what their sufferings were. The heat
began to teU upon them terribly as soon as their scanty stock of water
was exhausted. First the dogs gave in. Then the men also began to
drop behind. 'With the greatest difficulty they were brought along to
a littie pool of water, and then the party rested for a while. When
they attempted to move on again, the men were so enfeebled that
they could only advance at a rate that would take 'them nearly three
days to reach the vessel. Every resource was tried. They plunged
into the -sea, and essayed every other means, in vain, to refresh
themselves. At last Grey started in advance with one companion,
intending to send out assistance from the schooner. Here a new
obstacle arose. At a mile and a-half his progress was stopped by an
arm of the sea, about five hundred yards wide, out of which the tide
was sweeping like a torrent. Grey was puzzled. His companion

158
could not swim, and for him to go alone seemed very hazardous.
To say nothing of the danger from sharks and aUigators, there was a
native perched upon the rocks on the opposite side, and where he
was more might be. But Grey's resolution was soon taken. He
must render assistance to his companions, so he resolved to cross.
He stripped to his shirt, and with his military cap upon his head, and
a pistol in his hand for defence, he plunged in. All the protection
his pistol was likely to afford was soon destroyed, for the current was
so impetuous that it became a struggle for life -with Grey, and the
weapon was abandoned. Then the cap caught so much water that
the chin-strap would have choked him had he not abandoned that
too. After a fearful struggle, the waves threw him upon the opposite
shore, wounded and exhausted he clambered up the rocks with
nothing in the world about him but his shirt, and just in time to hear
the war-cry of the savages close to where he lay. Fortunately it was
nearly dark. He managed to secrete himself in a crevice, not daring
to show his head or to look around and see where his companions
and the schooner might be. His position was a trying one ; but
nature could bear no more, and in spite of his danger he fell asleep
upon the rocks — a very different spectacle from what he had presented
when he started in the morning. From this position he was rescued
by a boat from the schooner about ten at night ; and thus terminated
his first adventure in Australia."
On another occasion he came out badly when in advance with
two companions to mark out the line they were to follow. " While he
was thus engaged, and far beyond the main party, the natives made
an attack upon him. It was easy for them to conceal themselves
until their prey were fairly within their toils, so that they came upon
the explorers like a thunder-clap, and in a moment surrounded them.
There was no mistaking their intentions, and no time for parley.
Grey fired one shot over their heads, but that did not intimidate
them. Spears came flying round thick and fast, and the men could
scarcely shelter themselves behind the rocks. Grey fired again, this
time with greater effect, for the ball shattered the arm of one of the
foremost. Still the savages pressed on. One of Grey's companions
was in such an abject state of terror that the gun fell powerless from
his hands. The rifle of the other had become entangled in its case,
and he could not use it. Both barrels of the leader were now
discharged, and no help was at hand. The shower of spears

159
continued. One struck the stock of Grey's gun and broke it ; another
glanced along his back. It was a position that would have made
anyone bold. Tearing the cover from the rifle with the strength of
despair, he stood upon a rock to take deadly aim. In a moment he
was stricken down. Three spears struck him at once. The savages
gave a yell of triumph, and came in brandishing their clubs.
Maddened by pain and despair. Grey was on his feet again in a
moment and rushed towards them. It was now their turn to be
afi-aid, and they broke and fled. Singling out the leader, Grey took
deadly aim. The savage yeUed, and flourishing his arms, dodging
all the while from rock to rock ; but it was of no avail. The ball
struck him between the shoulders as he ran, and he feU upon his face
with a groan. This terminated the battle. The savages quickly
carried off their companion, and disappeared as mysteriously as they
had come. Poor Grey was badly wounded. Fortunately for him
only one of the three spears had taken any serious effect, and this
had given him a pretty deep wound upon the hip. This circumstance
decided the fate of the expedition. It was hopeless now to think of
carrying on the exploration overland to Swan River."
Shortly after this Sir George Grey was appointed Governor of
South Australia. In 1845 he was appointed to New Zealand,
entrusted with large powers in connection with Native affairs. He
acquired a knowledge of the Maori language ; impressed the Natives
with a conviction that he took a deep and inteUigent interest in their
well-being ; and he left the colony with the confidence and good
wishes of the majority of the native race.
His next charge was the Cape Colony. During the Indian
Mutiny he took upon himself to alter the destination of British troops
on their way to China (or Burmah), forwarding them to India, where
they were urgently needed. Clearly he was the right man in the
right place at that juncture. Had he shrunk from responsibility on
that occasion, he would probably have escaped the accusation or
imputation of being a self-wiUed man. In those days there was great
need of men who would dare anything in the interest of humanity ;
and were bold enough to act in obedience to their convictions.
His public spirit and liberality have quite recently been plainly
shown in his presenting to the citizens of Auckland a library second
to none in the Southern Hemisphere. The interest that he has in
variably taken in scientific questions engaging the minds of experts

i6o
in the old worid, his devotion to the cause of culture generally, and
his overpowering eloquence, cause his friends and followers to speak
enthusiasticaUy of his many gifts and accomplishments, and fully
account for his influence over a large number of people who, on so
many occasions, have proved themselves ready to adopt him as their
representative. His enthusiasm and eloquence called into existence
a following out-of-doors such as no man in New Zealand up to this
time has succeeded in attracting. I have heard educated men, not
engaged in the politics of the colony — not even professing to under
stand them — not willing, even, to maintain his consistency — express
their unqualified admiration of his intellectual gifts and great elo
quence ; but, indeed, no one that I have ever encountered has been
foolish enough to question his great power over men's minds and
feelings. The truest thing that men have ever said of Sir George
Grey — friends and political opponents alike — is that he is " an en
thusiast ;" the most effective shot that his foes ever fired into him
was that he was not " practical."

CHAPTER XIX.
My -Visit to Taupo and the Neighbouring Country.
During the session of ParUament of 1867, held at ^\^ellington, I
had heard much of the grazing capabilities of the interior of the
North Island, in the neighbourhood of Lake Taupo, and the country
round about Tongariro and Ruapehu. The rusult was that, with
certain others who had peruaded themselves of its first-class quality,
I made up my mind to visit it. Receiving letters of introduction to
the chief owners of land in and about Taupo, I made up my mind
to go at once to Hawke's Bay, by which route it was finally arranged
that we should travel into the interior. The travelling-party consisted
of Colonel (now Sir George) Whitmore, myself, and an experienced
surveyor (who was also an interpreter), with an assistant surveyor,,
and a Maori chief, whose knowledge of the country and general
inteUigence qualified him to be of considerable assistance to us.
I am in no mood at this time to record our every-day's progress
along the track leading from Napier to Taupo. From Colonel
"Whitmore's station we made the river Mohaka, which we crossed that
evening ; staying the first night at a sheep station not long formed.
Beyond this we soon plunged into a somewhat broken country ; a
country so broken, that the Maori chief in describing it, held up his
hand, spreading out his fingers, and pointing to them, said, " Like
that; aU up and down." Nothing but peaks, pinnacles and
pyramids. And this graphic description of the nature of the country
was true as truth itself We soon entered the primeval forest,
studded with timber trees of gigantic girth, and festooned with
creepers of tropical growth. Here and there, amongst these almost
inaccessible hills, were pointed out to us the remains, the ruins of
Maori strongholds ; which, had the owners been as wise as they were
wariike, would have remained in their possession to this day. But
loving war, and believing in the possibility of sweeping into the sea
aU European settiers located on the East Coast, they left these
fastnesses and went out to meet their doom. They risked all, and
they lost everything. Many of the prisoners who had been shipped
off to the Chatham Islands, had occupid this line of country. M

l62
Before reaching Lake Taupo, we met with few Maoris. These
few that clung to their old haunts were men, women, and children.
The men, few, old, and past fighting ; the women, the widows of the
slain, and grass-widows of the exiled men. When they were told that
Colonel Whitmore, the man who stood before them, was the great
warrior of that name, the military commander of the forces, European
and Maori, that had scattered the tribes on the East Coast and
elsewhere, they opened their eyes to take a good look at him ; stared,
wondered, and wept.
Leaving these thickly-timbered ranges we found ourselves
suddenly in the open country. Travelling becoming easier, we lost
no time in pushing on to the lake. We had by this time made the
discovery that our companion, the Maori chief, was a pleasant fellow,
and a good guide. We were now entering the country that he had
a large proprietary interest in ; and at every stage in our progress
we were meeting with men who seemed ready enough to recognize
his authority as a chief Paul Hapi, our reliable guide, compared
favourably with men of his own race ; and by no means unfavourably^
in some respects, with members of the superior race, so-caUed — our
noble selves. He may have been a savage at heart, and when
provoked to anger, as difficult to control as the majority of his
countrymen ; but he had the manners of a gentleman ; was hospitable
and courteous ; and never forgot to impress upon his people the
becomingness of treating us with consideration. He not only gave
orders that we were not to be disturbed by untimely visits of the idle
and curious, but he kept himself to himself: ate, drank, and slept in a
tent or wharfe apart from us ; and never dreamt of forcing his society
upon us, uninvited. To such an extent was this particular Maori bent
upon following the fashions of civilized Pakehas that he carried about
with him in his swag, a towel and a toothbrush. The Maoris are an
imitative race ; adaptive to an extent that would hadly be credited by
those who have had few opportunities of seeing them under a variety of
circumstances. Thus, in coming up with a party of Maoris, and
raising your hat in salute, oflT went hats in every direction. The
young men about Taupo especially rejoiced in the possession of
paper collars and puggarees. And if they at times sported only one
boot, they seemed, when mounted, never to be without a pair
of spurs. But although ready, and more than ready to meet half-way, ah

163
obvious desire on the part of Europeans to treat them with considera
tion, they were quite as ready as pugnaciously-disposed civilized men
to resent anything approaching to insult, or even a rude ignoring of
their claims to common politeness. In our travels we were told of
one of our countrymen who, in traveUing through the country, was
so wrapped up in himself as to forget what was due to his entertainers ;
and had been universaUy condemned and spoken of as "no
gentleman." The instinctive politeness, natural to so large a number
of the native race, was very noticeable when we approached the
precincts of a pa. The occupants rose to receive us, and on our being
introduced, came forward with a dignified bearing to welcome us.
Mats were then spread on the ground for us to rest on, and
preparations quickly made to supply us with something to eat. They
never failed to put before us the best that they had to give. All this
time none of them showed any impertinent curiosity to try and make
out the object of our visit. When we had finished eating, and
showed the slightest desire to enter into conversation, they were
pleased to fall in with our humour, and showed themselves able to
hold their own in a discussion of things past, present, or to come.
On riding through the country on that first trip, I was naturally
anxious, over anxious, my Maori friend and guide thought, to know
aU that could be told as to the quality of the country, its soil and its
grasses that lay a-head of us. And from time to time I asked
questions concerning it. I was at last told to have patience. " Tell
Cox, said this Maori philosopher, that to-morrow we shaU be riding
through the country he is asking about ; and that if he keeps his eyes
open he can judge for himself as to what it is."
We quite understood, before leaving Napier that up to the point
that we had now reached, no opposition to our progress would be
offered; but we were at the same time warned that it was by nc
means certain, having reached this point, that we should not be
poUtely but firmly told to right-about-face, and return to the place
whence we had strayed. Invited to pitch our tents within a Maori
enclosure on the banks of the beautiful lake, whose waters glistened
like a sea of glass, we soon shook down into place. After due time
was given us in which to bathe, eat, and rest, a conversation was started,
that ended in the making of set speeches. Our interpreter introducing
us as Rangihiras in search of grazing country, we were trotted out in
turn, and expected to say something in explanation and justification

164
of our appearance in that remote part of Maoridom. Asked to state
definitely what we really wanted ; and expected to prove to the
satisfaction of the Maori mind, that not only were our intentions
good, but that, if we were allowed to carry out our plans, they as
well as ourselves, would be benefited by the experiment. All this of
course opened up a large subject for discussion. Affording a good
opportunity for talking ; or let me at once say, for speaking — for
whatever, may have been thought of our attempts at oratory, no one
on this occasion, hearing the chief speaker on the Maori side, would
have felt the lest inclination to say of him that he was not a budding
orator. I think this was the first occasion on which I had heard one
of the rising generation of Maoris make a set speech. The man I
refer to was quite a young man, not more than twenty years of age ;
and for half-an-hour he spoke with a self-possession and a fluency
that was simply astonishing ; and if our interpreter was to be relied
on, without committing himself or his people to anything very definite.
In the year 1863 or 1864 I had an opportunity of hearing the
old warrior Hapuka, of East Coast celebrity, speak at Napier. This
celebrated chief had filled more than one page in the history of the
wars of New Zealand ; and now in his old age he seemed -wilUng to be
utilized by Europeans to aid in the preservation of peace throughout
the land. Old as he was, he was still something to look at ; a king of
men. And when he spoke it was impossible to deny that he was an
orator, if not a statesman. On the occasion referred to he was
holding forth in the presence of a large number of our parliamentary
chiefs, then on their way south. They also, in their turn, were
trotted out and put up to speak ; and I am not saying more than I
thought at the time, when I say that, in my judgment no man among
them seemed more to the manner born than did old Hapuka of East
Coast renown.
In old days, on an occasion when the Imperial forces were
actively engaged in fighting wdth the Maoris north of Auckland, a
chief, who was one of our allies, and was not highly impressed with
the generalship displayed by the commander of the combined force,
was excitedly criticising the plan of attack. The Colonel commanding
asked the interpreter, more than once, what all the talk was about.
The interpreter, knowing full weU that what was said was not
complimentary, or intended to be so, shirked giving the information,
saying, " Oh, sir, its nothing of consequence; its just Maori bounce"

i65
" But,'' said the officer in command, " I insist, Mr. Interpreter, upon
being told what he says, and all that he says. It is important in the
position I occupy, that I should be made aware of all that is
passing through his mind. Remember he is our ally, and a very
inteUigent man, I must admit." " Well, sir, he says you are a
(h)old (h)ass ! " (Tableau.)
But it is time to return to the lake. At the Maori pa, where we
were being entertained, dwelt with his people, his children, and
grand chUdren, an infirm old man of an unknown age. In the
following year when we re-visited the country, we missed the old
patriarch. Asking what had become of him, we were told that
within the enclosure that we were then resting in, the poor old fellow
had been shot through and through by Te Kooti in passing through
the country, murdering men of his own race right and left, when they
refused to join him in his bloody campaign. The story told to us
was that Te Kooti, drooping on to the pa without notice, and finding
no young and able-bodied men there, inquired of the old man how
it had happened that, save himself, all the men were absent. They
were not distant a quarter of a mile from where he stood ; fortunately
for them, out of his reach and sight. When the tottering old grand
father was questioned as to their whereabouts he refused to give any
information. When warned of the consequence of refusing, and
threatened with sudden death, he replied in these words — " I am an
old man. I have not long to live. It can matter but little to me
whether I die to-day by your hand ; or to-morrow, in the course of
nature." Te Kooti pointed a rifle at the old man's breast and fired,
saying, " Die then, and to-day, by my hand."
On the foUowing morning, traveUing south, we came to a pa of
some importance, where we had reason to expect an unwiUingness on
the part of the Maoris to allow us to proceed further. With this
doubt lurking in our mind, we sent on our Maori chief and guide to
announce our approach. The occupants of the pa mustered in some
strength to receive us. They invited us within the enclosure, and
finally led us up to a corner of the pa, where we squatted on mats
spread out for our accommodation. True to their instinct of
exhibiting no undue haste to ask questions as to whence we had
come, whither we were going, or upon what legitimate business we
were travelUng, we were allowed to take our own time in opening a
conversation. Fronting us, on the one side, were the women and

i66
children ; on the other side, the men, to the number of thirty or
forty — mostiy young. When this formidable body of Maori warriors
— men, most of them, who had been in arms against us in the
Waikato and West Coast campaign — filed out of the wharfe and
formed themselves into a group. Colonel Whitmore, with the instinct
of a soldier, touched me on the arm and said, " There's not a man
squatted there who is not posessed of a rifle and ammunition, both
within easy reach. Was I not right, in leaving Napier, to propose that
we should arm with revolvers before putting ourselves in the power of
such men ?" It seemed to me, however, that he was far from right ;
and that, moving through the country as we were, desiring to nego
tiate for the leasing of their lands, that it would have seemed pure
folly to have carried about revolvers in our pockets. At length our
interpreter got on his legs to speak, teUing them the old story, that
we were travelling onwards to inspect the grazing country in and
about Tongariro and Ruapehu, with a view, if it pleased the eye, of
taking up a block of it upon which to depasture sheep. That
although we were moved to do this in our own interests ; that opera
tions such as we contemplated could not be carried out without
materially benefiting the Maori inhabitants of the district. That
when the country was stocked with sheep, and establishments formed
such as were contemplated, employment would be within easy reach
of a considerable number of the Maoris, and that men wilUng to
work would find work, and that some of the luxuries as weU as the
necessaries of life would be introduced amongst them. All this and
more was stated by our representative.
This explanation of our presence in their territory at an end, we
had not long to wait before a Maori rose to speak in reply. He
spoke with great deliberation and at some length, but after the manner
of a man very careful not to commit himself or his friends to any
thing definite touching our proposed plans. What he did say in
substance, however, was exceedingly interesting. He said that the
Maoris had got to regard us as the representatives of a race or nation
whose restlessness knew no bounds ; whose enterprise was certainly the
wonder of the world ; but whose work done in New Zealand did not
often result in permanent advantage of any sort to the Maori. That
the majority of his countrymen were content with their surroundings ;
that they knew of no life to be preferred to that that their fathers had
led before them ; and that they cared not to go out of their way to

167
encourage the settlement amongst them of a race whose presence,
sooner or later, always resulted in the Native owners of the land
being first impoverished and finally wiped out. He was followed by
one who seemed more inclined to tolerate our presence in the
country. But it was merely toleration at the best. He said we might
move on, or we might go back ; our movements in any direction were
really nothing to him or to his people. We were at liberty to do
again what we had already done. We had come amongst them
uninvited, we might pass on unhindered ; but we were to understand
that they had no active sympathy with us, and no expectation of any
good likely to result from our explorations and promised operations.
Number three then rose, thanking us for our courtesy in explaining
our views and intentions, and acknowledging our enterprise in
planning to establish ourselves so far inland ; expressing his confi
dence that our presence amongst them must result in gain to the
Maori. That elsewhere he had seen the great and abiding results of
the enterprise of the Pakeha, and that he, at any rate, was in a mood
to trust to our right-mindedness so to carry out our scheme of occu
pation and settlement so as not to involve the extinction — the utter
annihilation — of the Maori race. And before seating himself, he
spoke out in plain language, welcoming us to the district — to come
into it whenever it suited us, and to go out of it when it pleased us.
He then came forward two or three paces, holding out one hand, as
though he wished and expected us to meet him half-way, as it were.
Our interpreter, however, held back,, and we, having . constituted him
our arbiter elegantiarum in matters of Maori etiquette, submitted to
be restrained by him. Seeing us unmoved — looking calm and
dignified, as became the representatives of the superior race, so-called
— we making no forward movement, they at length rushed up to us
in a body, siezed hold of us by both hands, and heartily welcomed us
after Maori fashion. Great preparations were then made for a feast,
to which we were invited, and did fuU justice. Amongst things good
for food, and in the proper season freely indulged in and put before
visitors, is whitebait. Another delicacy, cooked as only Maoris know-
how to cook them, are eels. Eels, even as Europeans cook them,
are palatable, but they are not to be compared to eels dressed in
simple Maori fashion. And this is how they do it : First catch your
eel ; wind him round and round a stick ; cover him with fragrant leaves
secured to the stick, so that the atmosphere be wholly excluded ; place

1 68
the stick in the ground before a blazing fire ; turn it about as often as
necessary, and when cooked, eat of it, and don't be ashamed to
confess before all men that professed cooks, in cooking eels, have
something yet to learn. The particular leaf used at Taupo to wind
round the eel I have forgotten, if I ever knew the name of it ; but
the recoUection of the thing cooked, its tender delicacy and aromatic
fragrance is stiU one of the pleasures of memory. After a free indul
gence in these good things, one of our party, a little forgetful of the
good advice given us in matters of Maori etiquette, was in a desperate
hurry to do a little business with them, wanting to know whether a
good-looking horse grazing within sight was for sale. A Maori sitting
by his side, patting him on the shoulder, said quietly, " Young man,
my advice to you is to take things a little more easily than you seem
to be in the habit of doing. You will certainly be an old man before
your time if you give yourself no rest ; rushing thus into business
with such unbecoming haste !"
Journeying onward, we camped that night at Lake Rotoaira,
lying at the foot of the sometimes lively Tongariro, on the way
visiting and bathing in the hot springs at the head of Lake Taupo.
The settlement in the neighbourhood of these hot springs is where
Te Heu-Heu was smothered in a land-slip in the year 1846. His
son and successor was amongst the important chiefs whom we
saw and were entertained by in our progress through the Taupo
country. I have but one story to tell of the hospitality of all the
Natives whom we encountered in our travels. They gave us willingly,
at all times, a share of all that they had in store, and not unfrequently
sent us on our journey laden with game. They remarked upon the
strange ways of the Pakeha, and humourously dwelt upon the different
interests that seemed to occupy them. "One party of Pakehas visiting
the country," said they, " seem to spend aU their time in picking
up stones ; another in looking for gold ; another in picking off" the
leaves of big trees, and looking hard at them ; another in digging up
shrubs and flowers ; and now you Pakehas seem only to be interested
in grass, and wondering whether sheep would thrive upon it. Truly
the ways of the Pakeha are strange ways. The M.aori is often
puzzled to make them out, and can never expect to do all and be all
that your wise men recommend."
We saw, feeding on the lower spurs of Tongariro, some of the
fattest native-grass-feed merino sheep that could be seen anywhere,

169
and before we left the neighbourhood we had an opportunity of
tasting and testing the quality of the mutton.
After riding some few miles into the country lying at the base of
Ruapehu, we determined not to proceed farther south. We were
now on the borders of the country described as superior in soil and
native grasses to any that we had ridden over. Satisfied with what
we had seen, we puUed up, intending at some future time to re-visit
it. I may as well record here that that day never came, and that the
country which we had set out to see and hoped to acquire a lease of,
has since been taken up and stocked by squatters enterprising and
strong enough to occupy it to advantage.
The little that I have to say of the climate of Taupo is all
in its favour. I know of no climate, north or south, to be pre
ferred to it. It is as far removed from the semi-tropical sultriness
of Auckland and its immediate neighbourhood as it is from the
intense cold of the South Island — cold enough at certain seasons
of the year to necessitate a coat, and warm enough during the
the rest of the year to make life enjoyable. It is an elevated plain,
or plateau, covered with native grasses such as are common in the
South Island, but which, owing to the nature of the soil, are weak
.and un-nutritious — almost worthless. At Wellington, during the
session of Parliament, when men from aU parts of New Zealand were
to be met with, the subject of cUmate often came to be discussed.
I never yet knew a man who was not at heart a Provincialist in the
matter of climate. Every man not belonging to Wellington inain-
tained stoutly that the climate of the province that he had the honour
to be one of the representatives of, was far and away the best in New-
Zealand ; all agreeing, however, that Wellington, in the matter of
climate, was behind the rest of the world. It used to be said (out of
Wellington, of course) that a man from the city of Wellington was
recognisable all over New Zealand by his unconscious habit of
clapping his hand to his hat to steady it, even bn the calmest of
days. The innate Provincialism in most men's hearts, if not in their
speeches at the seat of Government, would blossom into fruit in the
funniest way. A man coming down to breakfast, seeing opposite to
him one from his own province, would, Englishman-like, make a
remark as to the state of the weather. If a fine day, he would say,
" I say, old feUow, isn't this glorious ? doesn't it remind you of home ?"
And if a howling, blowing, blustering day, " My word, isn't this

lyo
Wellington all over?" It was very shocking, of course, to hear
Centralists thus speak, exhibiting unconsciously their blind prejudice
in favour of their own provincial paddock. But I have heard men
say that the best and wisest of men holding colonial -views are
occasionally inconsistent.
On our return along the banks of the lake, we stopped at Opepe,
where on our way out it had been arranged that I was to meet the
principal owners of land situated on the east side of Taupo. The
meeting arranged for took place. A large number were gathered
together, all of whom were supposed to have some sort of interest
in the land.
An inquiry into Maori titles to land would be a very interesting
and fitting study for one who had nothing else in the world to do.
But no man ought to engage in it whose brains have not been legaUy
set (that seems to me the right word), and who has not unlimited
time at his disposal. No white man has ever yet succeeded in
getting to the bottom of the theory of ownership.
Judge Maning, in a playful mood, in his never-to-be-forgotten
"Old New Zealand," speaks thus of his first experience in the
purchase of land, and of his attempts to unravel the intricacies of
title. " I now purchased a bit of land and built a ' castle ' for myself
I really can't tell to the present day from w-hom I purchased the
land, for there were about fifty different claimants, every one of whom
, assured me that the other forty-nine were ' humbugs,' ha-ving no right
whatever. The nature of the different titles of the different claimants
were various. One man said his ancestors had killed off" the first
owners ; another declared his ancestors had driven off the seco'nd
party ; another man, who seemed to be listened to with more respect
than ordinary, declared that his ancestors had been the first possessors
of all, and had never been ousted, and that his ancestor was a huge
lizard that lived in a cave on the land many ages ago. And sure
enough there was the cave to prove it. Besides the principal claims,
there were an immense number of secondary ones, a sort of ' latent
equities,' which had lain dormant until it was known the Pakeha had
his eye on the land. Some of them seemed to me at the time odd
enough. One man required payment because his ancestors, as he
affirmed, had exercised the right of catching rats on it, but which he
(the claimant) had never done, for the best of reasons, i.e. there were
no rats to catch ; except, indeed, Pakeha rats, which were plenty

171
enough ; but this variety of rodent was not counted as game.
Another claimed because his grandfather had been murdered on the
land, and, as I am a very veracious Pakeha, another claimed payment
because his grandfather had committed the murder." And so on
ad infinitum. Each man in turn using arguments and submitting
conceivable reasons, many and various, in support of them that no
skilled expert in law could improve upon.
At this meeting held at Opepe, the whole question of letting:
was gone into. The questions on the programme were — ist The
letting ; 2nd The amount of rent to be paid ; 3rd The term of
lease. Our representative (Paul Hapi), opened the proceedings in a
plain business-like way ; stating that we were, he believed, " Pakehas
of good repute," the bearers of letters of introduction from men who
had long known us, and that it was not unreasonable to suppose that
what we undertook to do we had both the means and inclination to
carry out. That as to the policy of letting their lands there could be
no two opinions ; involving as it would a certain expenditure of
money amongst the Maoris.
The country which they owned, and in which they lived, was a
vast territory truly ; but in the condition that it was, it was nothing
more. It was little better, indeed, to them in the little use they were
making of it, than a wilderness ; affording only a beggarly subsistence
to those occupying it. And that any change in the direction of
opening it up, stocking it with sheep, and peopling it with Pakehas-
must be an improvement. Believing this ; knowing what had been
done in other parts of New Zealand by enterprising Pakehas, he had
no hesitation in urging them to accept any reasonable offer made to
rent the country or portions of it, for a term of years. When he had
thus stated the case, I said to him, " TeU your friends that they wiU
have to come to a decision on the questions of letting, and rental
to-night ; as I am not in a mood to amend my offer, or to be bound
by it if they once reject it. That since I made the offer I have had
an opportunity of examining the country more in detaU, and am not
very much impressed with its quality ; that in a word, it is not worth
more than I have off"ered for it." The head of the opposition party
then rose to speak. He commenced by saying that he with others
of the tribe had been invited to attend the meeting ; and informed
that the questions of leasing, duration of lease, and amount of rental
would be put before them for discussion and settlement. That he^

172
although in a mood to let upon reasonable terms, had come prepared to
show that the amount of rent offered was insufficient ; but after
hearing the Pakeha say, that under no circumstances would he
consent to reconsider his offer, he was fairly bewildered ; not knowing
whether to speak or to be silent. The Pakeha says, " I will give you
so much and no more. Take it or refuse it ; and be quick about it."
He was foUowed in the debate by two or three of his party ; and they
were followed by any number of others, talking much, but saying
Uttle. In the end a resolution was passed almost unanimously, that
it was expedient to let the country ; and that the offer made should
be accepted. Our friend, Paul Hapi, again addressed them, saying
that he thought the Maoris had done wisely in coming to this decision.
He then turned to me, squatted on the ground within a yard or two
of him and said, " And now let me say a few words in reply to my
friend the Pakeha, who has thought fit to remind us that the country
proposed to be leased, and tbat it has taken us many days to ride
over, is not all of first-class quality; or quite equal to what he
expected to find it ; some of it, as he says " being exceedingly
poor."_ Will he forgive me for telling him that in thus speaking he
is proclaiming his ignorance ? Can he or any other man tell me of a
territory of such an extent as this, being all equally good ? I know
of no such large area of land in which is not to be found soU of every
variety and quaUty. Some good, some bad, and some indifferent."
In settling the amount of rent, it had been pro-visionally agreed
between Paul Hapi and myself, that for the first seven years so much
should be given ; and for the second seven years, twice as much ; and
for the last seven years, three times as much as that fixed for the
first term. This, however, was taken exception to by a smart man
on the opposition side, who snatching a whip-stick out of my hand,
and pointing to the thin end of it said, " You propose to begin at
this end of the stick ; we propose (pointing to the thick end of it)
to begin at this, traveUing year by j-ear to the tip of the thin
end." " Why," said he, " should we, who now live, and whose
needs are so great, be robbed in the interest of our children. Let
us, who are here to-day, be endowed with the higher rental ;
and let those who come after us put up with the lower."
The view from Opepe across the country, in the direction of
Tongariro and Ruapehu, is very striking. At a distance of thirty or
forty miles these giants of mountains stand out conspicuously ; the one

173
capped with eternal snow ; the other steaming at every pore, and closely
resembling a dilapidated pyramid. They are surrounded by hills of
varying height. Seen froih a distance, the country upon which we
were now camped looks, what it by no means is, .viz., the perfection
of a sheep country. Look down at your feet and you see a pumice
soU only slightly coated over with vegetable mould, and so loose and
friable that tussock grass fares badly in it.
In one of my subsequent trips to Taupo, a man who had been
in the South Island, and well-knew what a strong hold of the ground
this grass takes there, told me that he was once asked by a
Northerner, whether the fields of grass that covered Taupo plains did
not remind him of the plains of Canterbury. In reply, he said,
" There is this resemblance ; it is certainly tussock-grass North, and
tussock-grass South ; but there is this important difference. In the
North, a horse nibbling at it pulls it up by the roots ; in the South, it
is the fashion to tether a horse to a bunch of it." Not thinking
over-much of the country, on account of the loose nature of the soil,
and the weak appearance of the grass, I asked a scientific man, a
botanist, and also an authority on the quality of soils, whether, as
the country became stocked and the land consoUdated, the grass
would not become stronger and more nutritious. His reply was
" Certainly." And he may have been to some extent right ; but to have
been wholly so, he should have added : " The country can only be
made at the expense of the stock placed upon it, and at the cost of
the owners keeping them there." My first impression as to the
worthlessness of the country, was a sound one ; my second and last,
that time would cure its great defect, was the cause of serious loss to
me, and to others embarking in a similar venture.
There are stretches of country on the east side of Lake Taupo,
and for some distance in the direction of the hot lakes lying to the
north, where it is no exaggeration to say, sheep could not even live.
There are also patches of country where stronger and better grasses
and clovers would soon spread, and on which sheep in its improved
state would hold their own. But it would have been well for me
had I never seen the country. Better had I not yielded to the
temptation of squandering money upon its survey and the preliminary
expenses connected with the negotiations that ended in nothing.
For after aU these expenses incurred, no real occupation of the
country was tolerated. We had scarcely pitched our tents, so to

174

speak, when notice was sent by Te Kooti to all pale faces, to clear
out. That he was on the war-path, proclaiming battle, murder, and
sudden death ; and bent upon scattering sheep and shepherds.
Thus ended my atepjpt to establish myself in the Taupo district.*

CHAPTER XX.
North Island — Sir Donald McLean.
In my many trips to the North Island about this time, I saw and
heard much of men and things that interested me not a little. On
one of these occasion I had the great good luck to encounter Judge
Maning. He was dining with Sir Donald McLean, who had invited
me to meet him. Sir Donald McLean was well known to all men as
one who, for a period extending over twenty years or more, had been
connected with Native affairs ; first as an executive officer, and afterwards
as a Native Minister responsible to Parliament. No name is more
frequently to be found in the written histories of the North Island of
New Zealand. He filled too important and responsible an office in
connection with Native affairs to have escaped hostile criticism.
That he was as able, as far above the average of his contemporaries
as his many warm admirers long maintained, will, as a matter of
course, be always questioned ; but that he was trusted by a succession
of Governors and their responsible advisers, and believed in by a
large number of the people of the colony, North and South, and
their representatives in Parliament, is quite true ; that he was faithful
to those who employed him is equally true ; and that he was always
looked up to with respect and affection by a large number of the
Natives of the North Island, is truest of aU.
It pleased his poUtical opponents to say of him that he never
had a poUcy. These same men, , however, admit that he had great
patience, and that many successes in dealing with the Maoris are to
be written down to his credit. The men who maintain that he had
no poUcy worthy of the name would do well to read through his '
speech in Hansard (vol. xii., page 635), in which he states fully and
clearly what the policy of the Government of wfiich he was a
member, in dealing with Native affairs, was. In this speech, which
was delivered on the question of " want of confidence " in the
Ministry, he pictures what was the condition of Native affairs when
he took office ; what was his policy ; the means and opportunities
that he had of carrying it out ; and to what extent he considered he
had succeeded in his attempts to do justice to both Maoris and
Europeans.

176
The foUowing story illustrates what his political opponents meant
by his untiring patience. Before Sir Donald McLean became con
tinuously employed as a political agent in Native affairs, he was often
utilized by the Provincial Government of Hawke's Bay to purchase
lands from the Maoris. On one occasion, meeting a great chief by
appointment to arrange as to the purchase of a block of land, he
passed some days with the section of the tribe interested in the land,
entertaining them with all the news of the day, and speaking to them
often and fully upon all questions iinder the sun except the very one
upon which he had by appointment come to discuss and to settle.
Days thus passed without any attempt on either side to make the first
move on the diplomatic board. The Maori all expectation, well-nigh
bursting with impatience and indignation ; the European patient and
polite. At last the representative of the Government expressed his
intention to leave. His horse was caught, was saddled and bridled,
and brought up to where the two great men stood. McLean shook
hands with the old chief, thanked him for his hospitality and invited
him to visit him at Napier ; put his foot into the stirrup, and in the
act of throwing his leg over his horse, turned half round and said,
" I suppose I am to have the land ?" " Land," said the old chief,
" take it, take all, take everything. You have wearied me out ; the
land is yours."
This is a fair sample of the stories told to show that, in deahng
with these diplomatic Natives, he w^as more than a match for them.
I myself have seen men of an opposite type and temperament,
impatiently eager to do business, as they called it, negotiating for the
leasing of lands from the Natives, and have known them go away
without scoring a success, and without even impressing the Maoris
with a belief in their diplomatic skill.
That Sir Donald M'Lean satisfied all men at aU times — Euro
pean and Maori alike — was not to be expected and cannot be said.
But that he always strove to do his duty aUke to the Government
that he represented and to the Natives with whose welfare he was
charged, can fairly be said of him, and deserves to be recorded by
anyone anxious above all things to write down what is true and just.
He had lived long amongst this race, just emerging from a state of
savage barbarism ; was certainly an authority in all matters touching
their past history ; and might well be excused and forgiven if at last
he got to think of himself as essential in a Ministry responsible for

177
the management of Native affairs. He had to deal with men born
of savages, and in his long life of self devotion, spent in working on
their behalf, he showed unmistakeably and often that there was a way
of influencing them — and he practised it with remarkable success.
His method of dealing with them, so far as I ever had opportunities
of judging, was a happy combination of firmness and gentleness,
expressive of a desire to satisfy them that, whilst the governing race
were bound in the interest of law and order to exhibit a firm front,
that they desired at the same time to be regarded as a paternal
Government by her newly-adopted children. As a representative of
these qualities in combination, in dealing with the Natives of the
North Island, I know of no one in political life who can be said to
have approached him. From first to last, during the few sessions
that I had a seat in the House of Representatives, whilst he was in
office I was numbered amongst his supporters, from a conviction of
the soundness of his policy, and because, up to that time, I had
encountered no one better able to carry it out.
Most men who have had experience of the Maori race agree in
speaking of them as intelligent, adaptive, and interesting. And if
they have not, in their first attempts to pose as civilised men, walked
steadily, never swerving from the line marked out for them by mis
sionaries and ministries, it ought not to discourage philanthropists
from further attempts to humanise and Christianise them. Consider
ing the rough forms of European civilisation often encountered by
them in early days, and the scant measure of justice received at the
hands of individual Pakehas, wonder may be expressed that they are
as friendly, as hospitable as travellers through their territory still find
them. Whilst staying at the Wellington Club, I one day unintentionally
disturbed a party engaged in a hot discussion over a contemplated
deal for a large block of land belonging to West Coast Natives. The
owners of the land were represented by two old, but stiU stalwart sons
ofthesoU; and the intending European purchaser was representing
himself Sir Donald McLean posed as interpreter and mutual friend.
The European was at the instant speaking excitedly upon the rights
of property, and the privileges of ownership, wishing it to be cleariy
understood, as he very plainly put it, that if he became the owner of
the land he would teach the Maoris what ownership implied ; that
he would buy the land to utUize it ; that he would have no' dogs
• N

178
hunting over it, and no Maoris trespassing upon it to fish, to shoot,
or to recreate themselves upon it after any other fashion. Thus
much I made out, and retreated, not without wondering what the
lords of the soil, and the masters of the situation, would say to it aU.
Subsequently I was enlightened and told that when the European had
finished holding forth, and the Maoris had been made aware, through
the interpreter, what it all meant, that one of them threw up his arms,
exclaiming, " TeU us who and what this man is that he should speak
after this fashion ? Is he a great Rangitira ; or is he the d  1
himself?" It is pretty well known that there are many instances of educated
Maoris taking to missionary work. I knew of one connected with a
recognised denomination of Christians, who seemed to reaUse very
completely, that he was of some consequence in the religious world.
At the annual gathering of his brethren, he was called upon to give
an account of his missionary work. He spoke fluently enough of
his experiences, and pointed out something in a particular district
that had not pleased him. The European minister and representa
tive of the said district being present at the meeting, looked surprised
on hearing that it had been thus visited by the Maori missionary,
and warmly expressed his dissatisfaction at having been wholly
ignored— not even called upon. The Maori missionary in reply,
said, " When the eagle is soaring high above the tops of the
mountains he can hardly be expected to mark the movements of the
mouse at the mouth of a molehill."
An important section of the Maoris some years ago, apparently
tired of war, and of their many unsuccessful attempts to dam back the
overflowing and irresistible flood of European aggression, professed
to wish to live for the rest of their lives at peace with the settlers. And
to secure peace and prosperity, it was necessary, they said, to set up a
king of their own choosing, and to frame and live under laws of their
own making. But they were told that there was no room in New
Zealand for two kings. It is twenty years or more since the King
movement was first started. We speak now of Kingism as in its last
stage of decay. And we hope and believe that the day is fast
approaching when Europeans and Maoris will foUow one flag, and
acknowledge the sovereignty of one ruler. And when that day
comes, we trust that all parties in politics will do their utmost to
prove to the Natives of New Zealand that they have not done

179
unwisely to trust to the inteUigence, the sympathy, and the forbearance
of Englishmen ; that the rewai-d of their loyalty wiU be the establish
ment of a form of government suited to their capacity, acceptable to
them, and workable by them.

CHAPTER XXI.
Judge Maning.
Judge Maning was equally well-known with Sir Donald McLean
throughout the northern part of the North Island. He was known
both as a Native Lands Court Judge and as the author of more than
one clever, well-written book setting forth the ways and customs of
the Maori race.
About the time that I first met him there -was some reason to
fear further trouble with the Waikatos, who seemed in a mood to make
common cause with Te Kooti, still flying about the country, threaten
ing annihilation to aU non-sympathizers. The position was being
freely discussed by the Native Minister and the Native Lands Court
Judge. Maning was admittedly strong in counsel ; and was known
to have all influence with the Ngapuhis, north of Auckland. He
spoke of them as still able and ready to fight in a good cause ; and
expressed his readiness, if necessary, to lead them into Waikato. He
said he believed he could see his way to putting together a body of
seven or eight hundred of the pick of the north, the Ngapuhis, not
unwilling to try conclusions with their hereditary foes. Nothing,
however, came of these plannings. From that day to this the Wai-,
katos have never declared- war, although they have at times caused
great anxiety to Governments and neighbouring settlers, and have
certainly put the country to expense.
Judge Maning was a man whom it was interesting to have met.
One of those men from whom one could hardly help gaining
information. He was a fluent talker, full of anecdote ; and, although
weU on in years, he showed no symptoms of an impaired intellect.
In the fulness of his physical powers, he must have exhibited a
degree of health and strength above the average of man's endowment.
And for many years after the time to which I refer, he gave sufficient
proof of his vitality and endurance, as well as of his judicial ability,
in the good work that he performed as Judge of the Native Lands
Court. If it be said of him that in dealing out justice, he did his
work after a fashion of his own, it ought to be a sufficient reply to
say that his decisions were understood and accepted by those affected
by them.

t8i
I met him on more occasions than one in some of my trips to
Auckland in the years 1869 and 1870. He conversed, as he wrote 
pithily and to the point — telling one of the old, old days before, as
he laughingly said, men wore black hats, and had been cortupted or
degraded, or civilized into a state of conventionality. And sighing,
when he reflected upon the departure of his health and strength that,
when a young man, qualified him to hold his own in physical contests
with his companions. Age had certainly robbed him of much of his
animal strength ; but he was still, in intellect, a giant in his prime ;
and woe to the man, who in a weak moment ignoring his strength of
mind and varied acquirements, recklessly rushed into an intellectual
contest with him.
I once heard him described as a near approximation to Lever's
ideal of a cultivated and courtier-like Irishman 'of the old school.
And yet the greater part of his life was passed amongst Maoris, and
with men of his own race not as cultivated as himself He thus con
tracted, and sometimes exhibited, a brusqueness of manner that was
no true or full expression of the workings of his mind. Seen at his
best, he was attractive in manner, and genial in disposition ; and all
who knew him well were ready to admit that he was cultivated up to
a pitch that made it easy work for himto hold his own in a discussion
on almost any question, social or political. Amongst other subjects,
on the occasion that I have referred to, the politics of the day, Home
and Colonial, came in for a share of attention and discussion. He
never, as is well known, took an active part in the politics of the
colony ; never sought a seat in the General Assembly of New
Zealand ; but he had views, strong views in relation to most of the
political questions, exercising thoughtful minds in the old world and
in the new. He frankly admitted that he was ambitious of his son's
becoming politically useful to the land of his birth at some future
time ; but that neither he nor his son was in undue haste in the
matter, he, the father, considering that the son was }-et too young
to take upon himself the responsibility of such duties. He mentioned
that he had already been manipulated by a prominent politician in
New Zealand, as to his son's political career ; and grossly flattered,
when complimented on his son's ability.
Speaking of flattery, he said, " No man is so altogether wise as
to be wholly indifferent to it. It may be almost admitted that
everyone likes it ; but tastes certainly diff"er as to the measure and

mode in which it should be administered. Now, I confess to liking
flattery ; it is like summer rain falling on a parched soil ; but it nau
seates me ; it is an insult to my understanding, to my taste, to be
dosed and drenched with it. Let it be administered artistically ; in
homoeopathically minute proportion or measure, so that a man may
almost deceive himself into believing that no flattery was intended."
One of the many anecdotes told of him is worth writing down. I
hope it is true, for it is a very good story.
Invited by Sir George Grey to look at a long-legged bird recently
imported from the Solomon Islands, he accompanied him to the
grounds at the back of the Government House, Auckland, where this
interesting specimen in ornithology was sunning himself Thinking
of more important subjects at the moment, and entering into
conversation with the Governor, he unconsciously turned his back upon
the recent importation. What next happened, had best be told in
his own words. " I was suddenly conscious of a sensation, a shock,
a thrill that running up my back and down my legs completely
electrified me. Instinctively putting my hand behind me I was made
aware of a great rent in my clothes, caused by the peck of this
interesting and angry bird. I was thus taught a lesson that I think I
shall never forget, viz., that distinguished visitors from the Solomon
Islands, accommodated in vice-regal grounds, were not properly
appreciated by men who could thus turn their backs upon them. I
never again felt interested in getting into such close quarters with what
was dubbed own brother to a moa-bird. After that experience I was
always quite ready to beUeve, without insisting upon a close
inspection, all that scientific men choose to advance in proof of their
great antiquity and beauty. But who could have anticipated that a
bird just introduced into the civilized world, petted by a Governor,
and gazed at by young children, would have dared to have taken such
a liberty with a Christian man, and a Native Lands Court Judge."
In speaking of Native affairs, and of the time immediately
preceding the great Waikato w.ar, he said that he had been warned
that it was coming ; and mentioned what I have since heard Maoris
in the North Island say, that strong in the belief that as fighting men
the Maoris were man for man superior to the Pakeha, they had made
preparations on a vast scale for many years to carry on a great
struggle. That at that time the Maori mind was dwelling on war,
and that the Maori nature, fast relapsing into a state of savagery, was

i83
thirsting for the excitement of an encounter with the Pakeha ; believ
ing firmly that the God of battles would aid them, and the sun of
success shine upon them. Although the information that he was in
possession of made him look forward to the certainty of a future fuU
of trouble, and the shedding of blood, he seemed to have failed to
impress others with his conviction.
Both Judge Maning and Sir Donald McLean are gone to their
last home. The latter died some six or seven years ago. The
former, Maning, the Judge of the Native Lands Court, the scholar,
the gentleman, and one of the most attractive of men, breathed his
last only a few months since, in England, whither he had gone in
his old age for professional medical treatment.

CHAPTER XXII.
The Maoris— Their Friends— Bishop Selwyn and Others— My First Visit to
-Waikato.
Amongst the few accomplishments that Maoris have picked up from
their European civilizers is the game of draughts. When WiUiam
Thompson, the Maori king-maker visited Wellington in 1868, during
the session of Pariiament, it -»yas said to be his ambition to measure
himself at draughts with the string of Superintendents of Provinces
gathered together at the seat of Government. He assumed, from
the elevated position they occupied — being elected by aU the people
— that they were, as a matter of course, skilled in aU the littie games
that Europeans affect. Hence his great desire to enter into a contest
with them. He played with them aU, and beat them one after the
other ; and, very probably, went away wondering in what respects
these Pakehas were superior to the Maoris. AVhen I mentioned this
victory to a lady who was a visitor at Wellington at the same time,
she asserted that she had beaten the conqueror. I was not taken by
surprise at the announcement. Men are spoken of as the stronger
sex, but we all know that the best of women are stronger — more than
their match — in matters that they condescend to give their atten
tion to. The Maoris have had good friends, both amongst missionaries
and settlers, since the first occupation of the country by Europeans.
I think it is a matter of history that the Church of England first sent
missionaries to New Zealand, represented by the Rev. Samuel
Marsden and others, from Australia. Next in order, I think, came
the Wesleyans, and then the Roman Catholics. The history of the
Wesleyan mission, setting forth the early experiences of its ministers,
has been well, and at some length, told by the Rev. James Buller, in
his "Forty Years in New Zealand." The Roman Catholics also
appear to have exercised a very considerable influence amongst the
Maoris in the northern part of the North Island.
It is folly pure and simple to speak of the presence of the mis
sionaries in New Zealand as having retarded the civilisation and
prpgress of the Maori race. But for these missionaries, no general

i85
occupation of the country would have been possible by Europeans.
The great and good Bishop Selwyn and many others never slum
bered in their efforts to get for the Maoris a full recognition of their
rights as British subjects. Bishop Selwyn, indeed, had often been
spoken of by men who were politicians and nothing else, as having
more care for Maori interests than for the acquired rights of his
countrymen. The author of " Forty Years in New Zealand," a chief
among the AV^esleyans, wrote in a kindly and Christian spirit of this
man, who had devoted the best years of his life to missionary work
in the North Island of New Zealand. He first notices the Bishop's
arrival in New Zealand in 1842. He speaks of him as "a young
man for that office, yet not too young for the special work that was
before him. That he was of an athletic frame and of an apostolic
mind, and that he was well gifted for his position." Going on to say
of him, that " throughout his whole career he embodied in his own
example the sentiments contained in his first charge to his clergy in
1846." His biographer, the writer of the work " The Life and Episco
pate of Bishop Selwyn," in speaking of the days of the early war at
Kororareka, says, " The position of the Bishop during these stirring
times was, to the uninitiated, anomalous, but there was nothing that
was not most fuUy consistent with his office. In the midst of the
carnage and passion that raged, he was ever at peace and exercising
his office for the spiritual comfort of the wounded, using his influence
to lessen the horrors of strife.'' The Auckland Times writes thus of
his conduct : — " The Bishop was an active witness and participator
in this business, and it is only due to him to record that it is impos
sible for the rapture of praise to exceed that with which every tongue
loads him. He sought to arrest the fury of the fight ; he was also
seen bearing the wounded from the field ; afterwards, unwearied, at
the bedside of the dying : much more than this— he was the nurse,
surgeon, and servant of the sick, as well as their spiritual attendant,"
In speaking of the address presented to him by the Maori people on
his leaving New Zealand, his biographer again writes : — " Most
touching of all was the address of the Maori people, for whom he
had done so much — whose cause he had espoused, at the cost of his
influence and popularity with his fellow-countrymen — and of whose
recovery he never despaired, even though a large number of them
had apostatised." Again, as to politics, " As in Church matters, no

section or school claimed him as their leader or representative : so in
secular politics he ranked under the standard of neither party. If to
tolerate no sort of abuse, however ancient or respectable, or forfeited
by prescription ; if to make every man work up to the fuU limit of his
capacity, and to expect from every man an amount of service limited
only by his powers ; if to insist that personal interest and individual
feeling are to be sacrificed without hesitation to the Church or to the
community ; if to hold these convictions and to act up to them, is
revolutionary or radical, then assuredly during his whole career.
Bishop Selwyn deserved to be called revolutionary and radical. If,
on the other hand, to revere ancient precedents and carefully to
follow and preserve whatever of good and useful they possessed — to
be always loyal, obedient to authority, without thought of self — if
these are the criteria of reactionary conservatism, then, indeed,
throughout his whole life he was a reactionary conservative. Free of
both parties, he was a reformer when abuses demanded to be recti
fied, and a conservative when attacks were made on institutions that
were fulfilling their mission." The last few lines written of him are
the following : " Commanding intellect and humble faith, unswerving
obedience and inexhaustible charity, tender heart and dauntless
courage — these surely were combined in George Augustus Selwyn,
and make his memory and example a precious inheritance for all
time." Neither European settlers nor Natives were always in a mood to do
him justice at this time ( 1 864). When he went to Taranaki, he was, as
he records in his journal, " received with groans by a large number
of settlers ;" and whilst journeying alone and unarmed through the
disaffected country, he ran some personal risk. But no fear tempted
the Bishop to refrain from administering rebuke to his Maori children.
It was during this journey that a fanatical prophet persuaded the
people in a certain village not to receive him into their houses, but
to offer him a night's shelter in a pig-stye. He accepted the proffered
accommodation, set to work and cleaned out the pig-stye, turned out
the pigs, and then cut some clean fern and littered it down for his
bed. His conduct so astonished the Maoris that they exclaimed,
" You cannot whaka-tutua that man !" i.e., degrade him from the
character of a gentleman.
He made great efforts to act as mediator at critical times in the
history of the war, but with no great success. He met Wiremu

i87
Tamihana, the king-maker, at his residence at Matamata, and
attempted in vain to repress the passion for nationality that had taken
possession of his mind. Both king-maker and Bishop addressed the
meeting. The Maori spoke of the benefits to be derived by the
union of the Maori tribes, once constantly at war, but now about to
be consolidated into one brotherhood under a Maori king. The
Bishop spoke thus ; " Here am I, a mediator for New Zealand. My
work is mediation. I am not merely a Pakeha, or a Maori ; I am a
halfcaste. I have eaten your food ; I have slept in your houses ; I
have talked with you, journeyed with, and prayed with you. There
fore I am a halfcaste. Your dress is halfcaste : a Maori mat, and
English clothes. Your strength is halfcaste : your courage, Maori ;
your weapons, EngUsh guns. Your soldiers are halfcaste : the man, a
Maori ; the uniform and word of command, English. Finally, your
faith is halfcaste : the first preachers, your fathers in God, English ;
your own hearts, the mother to whom was born, faith. Thus we are
all half castes ; therefore let us dwell together with one faith, one
love, and one law." But the Bishop's eloquent appeal failed to alter
their determination to have a king.
When putting forth a petition for parliamentary representation,
they spoke after this fashion : " Open the doors of Parliament, the
great discussion-house of New Zealand, to us. Let us be ushered in
so that you may hear some of the growlings of the Native dogs
without mouths {i.e., not allowed to have a voice in public affairs),
so that eye may come in contact with eye and tooth with tooth."
When war was declared, the Bishop is reported to have said :
" If there must be war, our great effort ought to be at least to de-
brutalise it ; and the army, from the general downwards, have shown
¦every willingness that it should be so." " The conduct of the Bishop
during the war," says his biographer, "won the hearts of both officers
and men with whom he encamped." At the end of the war, his
services were publicly recognised by the medal given to all who had
taken part in the war being granted to him.
One day, after a hard fight between the English and the Maoris,
he went out, accompanied by an officer, to search for the wounded.
Having come upon one, they carried him off the field. Whilst thus
engaged, they came up with two soldiers making for the camp, and
.got them to take turns occasionally in carrying the wounded man,
while the officer and the Bishop carried the men's rifles. Some

i88
Natives saw the Bishop carrying a rifle, and spread a report that he
had fought against them. This poisoned their minds against him for
two years or more. At last, on the occasion of a great meeting of
Natives, some speaker denounced the Bishop as one of their foes,
when up got the wounded Maori and told his people the true story ;
and then all their bitterness and hostility turned to admiration and
gratitude. It needed but time to reveal the whole integrity of the
Bishop's motive ; but all that he did for both races during that disas
trous period will probably never be known in this world. The Maoris,
in their last farewell of him, said: "Who can teU that after your
departure things will be as well with us as during your stay in the
island ? Our love for you and our remembrance of you will never
cease." On the occasion of the departure of Bishop Selwyn for England
in 1868, when his career as a colonial bishop ended, the following
words, forming part of a farewell address, composed by Bishop
Patterson, and signed by all the members of the General Synod of
the Church of England in 1868, are worth recording: — " How can
we ever forget you ? Every spot in New Zealand is identified with
you ! Each hill and valley, each river and bay and headland is full
of memories of you ! The busy town, the lonely settler's hut, the
countless islands of the sea, all speak to us of you ! Whether your
days are few or many, we, as long as we live, wiU ever hold you deep
in our inmost hearts ! All will pray for you and yours — the clergy, to
whom you have indeed been a Father in God ; the old tried friends,
with whom you have taken counsel ; the younger men of both races,
whom you have trained ; the poor whom you have relieved ; the
mourners whom you have comforted ; the sick, to w-hom you have
ministered ; the prisoners whom you have visited — all think of you
always with true and deep affection, and will offer for you always their
fervent prayer." " The unexpected announcement of Bishop Selwyn's
death sent a thrill of suriuise throughout the length and breadth of
the land." Thus writes the Church Nnus (Canterbury).
I have now to tell the story of my first visit to Waikato ; and
how it came about that I yielded to the temptation of entering into
a speculation in land in that district. Finding myself in Auckland, I
agreed to accompany my friend James AVilliamson in one of his trips. I
had often heard him speak of the block of land that he had purchased
from the Government within the confiscated territory ; but I never

189
thought it likely that I should visit the district in which it was situated,
or dreamt even of the possibility of acquiring a partnership interest in
it. \\'hen my friend proposed that I should go up with him and visit
his property, I readily consented to go ; but I laughingly warned him
that nothing would induce me to speculate largely in land. In this
mind I went to Waikato. I spent a week in examining the property,
and returned to Auckland. Before many days had elapsed after my
return to Auckland, I found myself embarked in a speculation
that I ought certainly to have kept clear of, if for no other reason
than that it was ten times too big a thing for me to have plunged
into. I spent over seven years engaged in this work that I had with
eyes open rushed into. I then left it in hands strong enough to
carry it on to completion. At this period of my life I seemed to
have been possessed with the spirit of speculation. Nothing was
too large for me to take a share in ; the bigger the undertaking
the better I liked it. During those seven years, I made one earnest
effort to get away from the mammoth speculation which was fast
growing into a burden too heavy to be borne by me ; but I failed in
that attempt. During the period above spoken of, I on one occasion rode over
land from Napier to Waikato by way of Taupo. On arriving at
Tapuhareru, the northern end of Lake Taupo, I lost no time in
visiting the hot springs in the immediate neighbourhood. In this trip I
was accompanied by my second son. Placing ourselves in the hands
of the well-known guide Loffiey, we threaded our way cautiously
through the hot springs and hoUow ground, until we came to a smaU
circular lake, which was boiling fiercely. The path along which we
walked ran along the very edge of a seemingly solid crust, and
appeared to have been quite recently used. The guide leading, I
foUowing him, and my son bringing up the rear. Suddenly the crust
overlying the boiUng mud gave way. I slipped in, and before I could
be dragged out I learnt for the first time in my life what pain was.
My foot, ankle, and the lower part of my left leg were very severely
scalded ; and it was with some difficulty that I could be pushed up
up on to a horse and taken to quarters, where I was kindly received
and carefully nursed by a good Samaritan in the constabulary force —
Mr. Northcroft. In a few days, much sooner than was prudent in
the state I was in, we set out for Cambridge, which we reached on ,
the the third day, still piloted by our friend Loffiey. When this

190
said-to-be essential guide helped to haul me out of the boiling mud,
and exclaimed with great seeming concern, " I am so sorry that this
should have happened to you," I looked up at him, almost ready to
embrace him for his sympathy ; but I was in rather too great a
hurty in regarding him as a tender-hearted man, for he went on to say —
" You see, if this had happened to a fool of a fellow who had gone
poking about this dangerous ground on his own hook, refusing to put
himself into the hands of an experienced guide like me, I should have
at once said, ' Sarved him right ;' but as you were under my guidance,
closely following upon my heels, I can't help feeling that this mis
fortune of yours will do me a lot of harm with the pubUc. I am
reaUy sorry for the accident." Loffiey was an amusing fellow, enter
taining us not a little by his many stories of his experiences and
adventures during the Waikato War in 1863. I have heard men ask
whether he was as truthful as he was entertaining. He was a great
reader, consuming greedily everything in the way of fiction that came
into his hands ; had a marveUous memory, and never seemed to tire
of talking. Amongst notabUities that had in the previous year visited Taupo
was Anthony TroUope, whom Loffiey and two others had the high honour
of pulling up and down the lake for the best part of a broiling hot day.
He was not favourably impressed by this illustrious visitor, speaking
of him as a mean man. When I asked him what he meant by that,
he said, "WeU, look here, sir, we pulled him up and down that
blessed lake, half killing ourselves by over-exertion, and he never so
much as offered us a tot of whisky, although he took many a good
nip himself during the day. I call that mean in any man. If at the
end of that day he could be considered a better man than me, it was
aU owing to the whisky. It was too bad of him, now was'nt it sir ?"
said he, "for in my way, you know, I have always been his friend;
even gone the length of patronizing him. I believe I've read every
word that the fellow ever wrote, and I confess to liking his stories.
But there, writing prettily is one thing, and acting like a gentieman is
another.'' One often encounters in the colonies labouring men who have
spent a good deal of their spare time in reading. The majority of
these reading men are content with fiction ; but it sometimes happens
that a man has a taste for something better. I once heard of a
Scotch shepherd who seemed to be as well read in Divinity as his

191
minister. On one occasion, when the minister was holding forth
eloquently, Sandy was seen listening very attentively. For a while he
made no remark, was guilty of no interruption. At length, on the
conclusion of a somewhat striking 'passage in the sermon, he ex
claimed aloud, " That's Tillotsen ;" at the end of another equaUy
eloquent burst, "That's Chalmers;" at the end of a third, "That's
Guthrie." This was the last straw that broke the back of the old
minister's patience. Pointing out the irrepressible critic, he thundered
forth, "Take — that— man— out — of— the — church." "That's your
ain," said Sandy.
Speaking generally of the country to the westward of the track
that we rode into Waikato by, one may say that the greater part of it
may at some distant time be utilized for the grazing of stock. But
the country to the eastward of the same line will need more making
than wise men for half a century at least will care to bestow upon it.
For the last forty or fifty miles we rode through some of the country
since taken up by Europeans ; portions of which will doubtless be
made to produce grasses. But the company that undertakes to reclaim
it from its present state of utter worthlessness will certainly deserve to
succeed. There were belts of timber country here and there on our
track, equal to any in New Zealand forests that I have elsewhere seen.
There is not much of the country through which we rode on this
journey, even the best of it, to be compared with the old settled part of
Waikato, lying along the confiscated boundary. The light lands
throughout Waikato, resting on a gravelly sub-soil, where they are
free from pumice, are capaple of being improved into good grazing
country. There seems to be some peculiarity in the soil or climate,
or in both combined, which seems exactly to suit all kinds of clover
and cocksfoot grass. But these soils are not so well suited for the
growth of grain as the deep volcanic soils that are met with in parts
of Waikato.

CHAPTER XXIII.
.Settlers North and South — -The Climate of the North Island.
In a former page of these my " RecoUections," I have, in speaking
of the Canterbury pilgrims and settlers said, or implied, that they
had not only done well, but that they deserved to have done
well. They worked hard with head and hands, lived plainly, and
waited patiently for the harvest that they are now reaping. The
richest among them are not in all cases the men who brought the most
money into the country ; or the men who could boast of the largest
or longest experience in country pursuits. It was perhaps owing to a
lucky accident that they were located where they are ; but it is due
to their enterprise, energy, and patience, that they are what they are.
When they landed in the province they were, without any great delay,
put into possession of the lands of their selection, and with no loss of
time they commenced active operations. They were dropped on to
a spot where there was available land, of first class quality, and any
quantity of it.
This description of the province of Canterbury, and of its early
settlers, of their pluck, energy, and patience, applies equaUy to the
province of Otago and its founders and first settlers. In writing
thus of these two highly favoured provinces, I am reminded of a
story told in olden days of an early Nelson colonist.
The good land within reach of the settlement of Nelson, as all
who have visited it well know, is very limited : so limited, that it
-was an impossibility to satisfy all holding claims to suburban and
rural sections. This particular settler's disappointment and grievance
was, that his section so-called, never had an existence. That what
had been sold to him as " land " had never been known of but as
"water." Determined to make known his grievance, and to force
the New Zealand Company into compensating him for time lost
in going out to Nelson and back to no purpose, he took a room
next door to the offices of the Company in London, and made it his
business every day in the week to waylay people calling there, and
to tell them the story of their dealings with him and others no better
off, imploring them to have nothing to do with such an association.

193
He was at last sent for, and told to state his terms to keep his mouth
shut thenceforth. And this is a copy of the account that he
made out — Original price of land (paid) £ 
Interest on above, from date of payment £ 
Expenses to and from New Zealand £ 
Loss of time and opportunities £ 
"When he had reached thus far in his statement of account, he
was asked if that was aU. " No, indeed," said he, " I demand a sum
to compensate me for loss of peace of mind during my attempt to
force the Company into doing me justice ! " It was stated that he
was settled with on his own terms.
Colonists are at least of two distinct types. First — You have in
large number men of the right sort, who go out to a colony to work ;
set to work with a right good wiU, and always occupied, lead a
contented and useful Ufe. You also have men who are brim fuU of
sentiment ; utterly ignorant of what is required of them as settlers ;
without experience, and with little or no patience ; gifted only with a
happy-go-lucky kind of faith in things coming out right after a few
years pleasantly spent away from the land of their fathers. These
men belong to the set or order of colonists, who according to the
Times newspaper, think of Ufe in a colony as a " perpetual pic-nic
without the champagne." Then you have a third class, few in
number, but who make themselves very conspicuous at times ; who
have left home more to please their fathers and friends than them
selves ; men who have no notion of attempting any sort of work ; and
who certainly waste no time in speculating as to the future of the
land of their adoption. Representatives of these three classes of
colonists are to be encountered in all colonies in their first stage of
settlement. And then, in stUl smaller number, you have a sprinkling
of cadets. A few of these are of the right sort, and Soon get absorbed
into the general community. I think the majority go back to the old
country, speaking of the particular colony that has been honoured by
their presence as a very much over-rated place.
I once encountered a cadet, whose get-up on his first appearance
in the colony was so loudly suggestive of the butterfly life that he
had hitherto led, that I resolved at once to open his eyes to the sort
of Ufe that he might have to lead if he made up his mind to become

194
a settler in Waikato. I asked him if he had had any experience
of bog-lands — I suppose because he looked so unlike a bog-
trotter — whether he was a good walker, and was in a mood to take a
walk with me on the foUowing day. Willing to walk, he turned up
the next day. He was particularly weU dressed from head to foot, in
London-made clothes, and in shoes of a cut and finish that any
young sweU might have been proud of in sauntering along the walk
bordering the drive in Rotten Row ; and in addition, he carried a
green silk umbrella. We set out ; walked many miles over hoUow,
swampy ground ; got a littie wet, and at last struggled on to dry land,
when we sat down for a rest. He told me that he had come to New
Zealand to make money; and that he would be everlastingly obUged
to any one who would show him the way to do it. To encourage
him, I told him that I knew a man who had come to New Zealand
with 3s. 6d. in his pocket ; and from that day out he had been
growing richer and richer. But that his rule of life was that, when
he had only 3d. a day he made up his mind to spend only 2j4d.
My young friend went back to Auckland, and strangely enough never
again visited Waikato. I thought it strange after the trouble I had
taken to show him what was expected of a man who came into that
part of Waikato to settle.
In writing of the early settlers of Canterbury and Otago as I have
done — of their pluck, enterprise, and patience — I have no desire to be
understood as implying that the farmers and settlers of Auckland and
of the other provinces of the North Island have not exhibited the
same steady perseverance in work for a course of years as their more
fortunate neighbours. Auckland especially has had a hard race to
run to keep within hail of her Southern relatives.
For many years, indeed, she has been somewhat severely handi
capped. With a very limited area of avaUable land for settle
ment ; with no native grass country stretching into the interior
ready for occupation ; with an ill-affected Native population, jealously
watching and opposing every attempt on the part of Europeans to
advance into their country; the wonder is that the settlers of
Auckland and many other parts of the North Island have done so
much ; not that they are behind hand in exports in comparison with
the South. Gibbon Wakefield, on an occasion in speaking of the limited
area in the North that was open to European settlement, said, " We

195
are cabined, cribbed, confined, hemmed in, and stifled, because of the
non-extinction of the Native title in the land surrounding our settle
ments." But there is a future for Auckland, and the North Island
generally, that men living in the South are sometimes in a mood to
question the realization of There is a very large area in the interior
of the North Island that is certainly unavailable for agriculture ; but
of this there is no great proportion that is not fitted for the settlement
of graziers on a small scale, and which year by year is being acquired,
utiUzed, and improved. This country is generally well-watered and
sufficiently timbered ; and will afford homes and a living to men who
are not afraid of hard work, and who dream not of wealth, but of a
competency. I don't say that the class of country that I am
describing will ever become a field in which fortunes are to be made ;
but that it will gradually grow into importance, and become the home
of a large number of small proprietors.
Of Hawke's Bay it may already be said that for its extent as a
grazing ground no part of New Zealand is to be preferred to it. Part
of the province of WeUington lying along the east coast may be
classed in the same category as Hawke's Bay as to grazing. Cutting out
this area of good grazing country, and excepting the country about
Wanganui and along the west coast to Waitara, and the inland Patea
country at the back of the great forest, the remainder of the North
Island may be roughly described as broken and thickly timbered,
which it wiU take years to bring into a state of productiveness.
In looking round the harbour- of WeUington, seeing nought but
hiUs upon hiUs, I have often asked myself what manner of men the
first WeUington settlers were, that they could off" coat, shoulder an
axe, and plunge into such a wilderness of wood to make a home of
But many of them did it ; seeing in those eariiest days nothing better
to be done.
The lands on the west coast of the North Island, from Otaki
right up to Waitara, north of New Plymouth, are exceptionally good
in quality, and are every day filling up with a European population.
Such an accession to the body of settiers occupying that line of country
wiU render it almost impossible in the future that Native disturbances
can occur of such importance as to give much trouble.
Speaking generally of the climate of the North Island, it may
with truth be said that it is a thoroughly healthy and most enjoyable
climate to live in. It is the fashion to speak of Wellington as

196
a disagreeable cUmate ; but the people who live aU the year round
in the city of Wellington tell a different tale. Certainly the people
look robust ; and I have heard young men assert that the women
are of the fairest of the fair. And of Auckland it is quite true also,
that men work hard in it, and live to a good old age ; although I
once heard a Southern man sneeringly speak of the Aucklanders as a
parcel of lotus-eaters. But clearly, that was a huge mistake. The lotus
was fabled by the ancients as making strangers who ate of it forget
their native country ; or leaving it, lose aU desire to return to it.
That is about the last thing that a genuine Aucklander would ever
dream of doing — loving as he does with a blind idolatry everything
Auckland. One of its richest men, and a man who has the reputation of
knowing the value of pounds, shillings and pence, once said to me,
when I was urging him to speculate in land in Canterbury, " AU that
you say of your Canterbury lands, of their richness, and of the certainty
of their growing into increased value year by year, may be true
enough ; but once for all I wish you to understand that I would
rather make ;£s°° by investing my money in Auckland than secure
a premium of ;^5ooo by investing it outside of the province.
When I visited Auckland in 1863, I was too absorbed by my
legislative duties (who dare doubt it ?) to take a good look at the
rising generation of the fair sex ; and when, nine years afterwards, in
1872, I went there to live, I was what is called an old man — ^had out
grown my capacity for judging critically of beauty in that particular
form ; but I once heard a young man of the period say that the hair
and eyes of the daughters of Auckland were the fullest possible
realization of the dreams of poets.

CHAPTER XXIV.
The Canterbury Museum.
Amongst the many institutions in Christchurch, upon the possession
of which Canterbury colonists may certainly be congratulated, is the
Museum. Only those who have lived long in the land know the
nature and extent of the obstacles and difficulties that seemed to
stand in the way of its early establishment.
The credit of founding this Museum must be given to William
Sefton Moorhouse, whilst Superintendent of the province. The great
merit of building it up during a course of years has to be awarded to
Professor Julius von Haast, Ph. D., F.R.S., President of the PhUo-
sophical Institute of Canterbury, Director of the Canterbury Mu
seum, and Professor of Geology in Canterbury College (New Zealand
University). This gentleman was first known to us in Canterbury as
the Pro-vincial Geologist. What this Museum would have been
under other management and supervision, it is idle to speculate upon.
"What it actualy is, and what is thought of it by residents and visitors,
must be very gratifying to the man who has spent the morning of his
Ufe in establishing it on a broad and lasting foundation.
The Superintendent of the province, with aU the earnestness
that was in him, urged the pubUc to regard such an institution as a
necessity of the times, pointing out that the ground was thickly
strewed with mineralogical and geological specimens , and that, as a
means of education, in the interest of the rising generation, it would
be wise to gather them together. Whether the happy idea was born
in him or had been put into his brain by the man who, fortunately
for the province of Canterbury, was at that moment available to make
it a certain success, wiU be regarded as of less coftsequence than the
fact of its being what it is— viz., the biggest and best thing of the
kind that New Zealand can boast of I think I shall not err in
speaking of it as equal in extent and value to any similar institution
to be seen in Australasia.
When the question of establishing and endowing a Museum was
first debated in the Provincial Council, some men doubted the
wisdom of taking such a step, considering that the province need be

198
in no hurry to form a Museum. The gentleman who was appointed
curator had come to the province highly spoken of as one fitted for
the position of Provincial Geologist ; and it was said of him by those
who knew him well that if he had fair play given him, and means
furnished him to enable him to prosecute his studies and explorations,
that he would certainly do all that could be reasonably expected of
him. What he attempted and has accomplished, I will endeavour in
the following few pages to set forth.
In his " Historical Notes on the Progress of the Geological
Survey of Canterbury, New Zealand," Dr. von Haast says, in speak
ing of himself, that whilst residing in Nelson and occupied in prepar
ing for publication the results of a journey in the south-western
portion of the province of Nelson, he received a letter from His
Honor the Superintenent of Canterbury, Mr. Moorhouse, requesting
him to proceed to Canterbury, as he was anxious to have some geo
logical detail examinations of the mountain range separating Lyttelton
from the plains. Through this range the tunnel of the Lyttelton and
Christchurch railway had been projected ; and after ha-ving been
begun, the contract had been thrown up owing to the fact of the con
tractors' having met with some specially hard basaltic rocks at the
Lyttelton end of the projected tunnel. Dr. von Haast ha-ving handed
in his report and a very complete collection of specimens of the
rocks encountered at the mouth of the tunnel, His Honor the Super
intendent set off with them in his carpet-bag to Melbourne, where
after one or two efforts he succeeded in his negotiations with a firm
of experienced contractors able and ready to carry out the work. On
his return to Canterbury, he at once offered Dr. von Haast the
appointment of Provincial Geologist, a post which he accepted and
retained up to the day of the abolition of the provinces.
His first explorations carried him to the source of the rivers
Rangitata and x\shburton. On this expedition he was accompanied
by his friend Dr. Sinclair, an old Auckland colonist and Government
official, and a man well known to the scientific world. He accom
panied the party mainly with the intention of assisting in the proposed
botanical researches in the mountain ranges ; and whilst so engaged
he met with his death in an attempt to wade across one of the main
branches of the Rangitata river. They buried him in his lonely
grave at the foot of the glaciers, amidst the beautiful veronicas and
other native shrubs that are to be found in sheltered spots in those

199
alpine regions. Dr. Sinclair came to Auckland in 1843. He had in
early life served as a surgeon in the Royal Navy. He was appointed
Colonial Secretary by Governor Fitzroy, which office he held until
the introduction of responsible government in 1854. He was spoken
of as the first collector of specimens of New Zealand natural history,
botany, conchology, and entomology. The leader of the expedition,
Dr. von Haast, thus writes, in speaking of his lost friend : — " With
almost juvenile alacrity, he had climbed and searched the mountain
sides, showing that, notwithstanding his advanced his age, his love
for his cherished science had supplied him with strength for its pur
suits, until at last, over-rating his powers, and not suffieiently aware
of the treacherous nature of alpine torrents, he fell a victim to his
zeal. Great and deep was my sorrow, and with a saddened heart I
had to continue alone the work upon which we set out together."
Reports and papers on the geology and the physical geography
of Canterbury were from time to time forwarded by Dr. von Haast
to the Geological and Royal Geographical Societies of London.
These were printed in their " Transactions."
The Superintendent, in urging the claims of the Museum to a
liberal endowment, dwelt upon the commercial value of what had
already been secured, and saying that if the province had any doubt in
the matter that they could at once realise on their property ; but he
expressed a hope that they would never be so far gone in folly as to
take such a step. In the year 1868 the Council voted the sum of
_;£i35o for the erection of a Museum building in stone, the Governor
then appointing Dr. von Haast director. This vote was supplemented
by the sum of ^483, obtained by voluntary contributions of the inhabi
tants of the province. This building was opened to the public on
October ist, 1870. It formed the nucleus of the pile of build
ings now forming the Canterbury Museum — an institution which
residents point out with pride, and strangers gaze at with admiration
and envy. The next exploration, with its results, has been recorded in the
" Historical Notes" already referred to. This trip was to the glaciers
at the foot of Mount Cook. Dr. von Haast rightly speaks of the
beauty and grandeur of this monarch of mountains and his
surroundings, regarding them as worthy rivals of their European name
sakes. As he passed through the south country on this trip, I had
the honour of entertaining him. On his presenting himself at the

back door, the woman who answered his knock looked him up and
down, and was not too favourably impressed with his appearance.
But knowing that I was expecting a carpenter to do a rough job, and
noticing that he had stuck in his belt a hammer — the indispensable
hammer used by geologists — she jumped to the conclusion that he was
the journeyman tradesman ; told him to be seated, and lost no time
in reporting' his arrival, saying, "That carpenter man has come."
His next trip, I think, was to the West Coast, which he examined
mineralogically as weU as geologically, going as far south as Mount
Cook — of the glory and beauty of whose surroundings he again
writes in poetical prose.
He again visited the West Coast, traveUing through the Mackenzie
country to Lake Wanaka, and thence to the Coast. The results of
all these explorations and surveys are plainly and fully mapped
out in a well drawn map hanging up on a waU of the Museum. In
his public reports, he speaks of his labours and their results : — "Besides
numerous geological and palaeontological specimens, I collected
several thousand specimens of dried plants, comprising the nearly
entire flora of a portion of the alpine region, from the slopes
of eastern ranges to the alpine zone, near the line of perpetual
snow." These treasures gathered together from time to time,
and deposited in the Museum, now attract numbers of visitors ;
some going to satisfy their curiosity ; and some to study in the great
book of Nature. Of the megatheriums and moas holding a court in
the right-hand hall as you enter, I have nothing particular to say; they
lived before my time, and thus I had no opportunity of making their
acquaintance. They are, indeed, a large family ; but let no one run
away with the notion that they are all alike, and have no distinguishing
and characteristic names ; all are called " moas " and look more Uke
moas than anything else; but just read over the following list, and say
whether you have not had more than enough : — Dinornis maximus ;
Dinornis robustus ; Dinornis nigrens ; Dinornis crassus ; Dinornis
gracilis; Dinornis struthioides! — Time is too valuable to complete
the list. I am told by Dr. von Haast that all these specimens of the
moa skeletons were dug up out of the swamps of Glenmark, the
estate of Mr. Moore. From the year 1861 to the year 1868, our
Provincial Geologist was in the habit of devoting six months in the
year to traveUing through the interior, conducting a topographical
and geological survey of the country. 'When he first announced his

discovery of glaciers at the sources of the principal rivers, he was
disbelieved and laughed at. Amateurs had already made attempts
to satisfy the scientific world upon this point, and had gone the length
of reporting their non-existence.
It is matter of history, although perhaps not so well known as it
ought to be, that we owe the artesian wells that are bubbling up all
around us to Dr. von Haast's experiments and reports. In 1863 he
furnished a valuable report on this important question. In that paper
he says that he came to the conclusion that the geological structure
of the district in the neighbourhood of Christchurch was favourable
to obtaining water by means of artesian weUs. In the last sentence
of the report, he -writes thus ; — " In summing up, I may therefore
confidently state that the strata through which the borer has to go
will not, by their nature, offer any serious obstacle ; and that, reasoning
by induction, all tends to confirm me in the belief that long before
the volcanic rocks are reached, a good supply of water will be
obtained." The subsequent remarkable results of the borings by
which an almost endless supply of some of the purest water in the
world was obtained for Christchurch and its neighbourhood, have more
than fully reaUzed the scientific conclusions and predictions expressed
in the report.
Surely those who beUeve in the efficacy and sufficiency of
water to satisfy the legitimate cravings of mankind, and have at heart
the promotion of the great cause of abstinence and purity, ought not
to rest satisfied until their gratitude is plainly and substantiaUy
expressed to the man of science, who, in boring into the bowels of
the earth, struck the rock with the rod of Moses, and brought up to
the surface an abundant supply of pure water.
Any doubts as to the qualifications of Dr. von Haast for the
position that he was appointed to by the Superintendent that may
have been entertained, any prejudices that may have existed in the
minds of colonists on account of his being a foreigner, were soon
removed when men began to look upon the results of his labours.
And if further proof of his general aptitude and technical skiU were
needed, it was furnished by Dr. Hochstetter in his valuable work
published in 1867, "New Zealand, its Physical Geography, Geology
and Natural History." After acknowledging the assistance received
at the hands of both the Colonial and Provincial Governments, he
goes on to speak of his friend, Julius Haast, whom he first met in

202
Auckland. These are the words that he uses in writing of him : —
" I was particularly fortunate here in meeting with a true and trusty
German, who became henceforth my inseparable travelling companion,
the faithful participant of aU the toil and troubles, as well as of my
pleasures, during my peregrinations through New Zealand — I am
speaking of my friend Julius Haast. A singular chance had brought
him to New Zealand the very day before the arrival of the Novara.
He had come for the special purpose of becoming acquainted with
the country and its inhabitants ; to ascertain to what extent New
Zealand was adapted to German immigration. With youthful
enthusiasm he entered at once into all my plans, duly appreciating
the importance of the task before me. With unfeigned friendly
devotion, and an unwavering cheerfulness of mind, he stood ever at
my side, aiding and furthering my projects and labours, until we
separated on my departure from Nelson. He remained behind, and
has since acquired a well-earned fame and distinction by his bold and
persevering explorations of the wild mountainous districts of the
South Island." It seems to me that to add one word to this would
be a blunder. I will, therefore, take leave of Dr. von Haast ; asking
him to forgive me for thus exhibiting him to the world. In conclusion,
let me express the hope that he may long continue in health and
strength, and have in the future many opportunities of doing further
service in the cause of science, and in the interest of himself and
his fellow colonists.
When Dr. Hector began the gological survey of Otago in
1862, he started also a Museum, but when he left for A\'elUngton in
1865, the specimens gathered by him were packed away in boxes and
placed in a store. When the University of Otago was started, the
Museum was re-established and re-opened in the Government build
ings ; but till Captain Hutton went there, no great progress was made
with it. A new building was then erected — a large hall, 90 feet by
45 feet, with two gaUeries. It is now under the able direction of
Professor Parker, the professor of Biology, and is very creditable in
every respect.
Some years ago, the New Zealand Society in Wellington, of
which Sir George Grey was President, had the germ ofa Museum in the
Provincial Government buildings, under the charge of Mr. (now Dr.) W.
P. Buller; but except for scientific visitors it was never opened to
the public. It was afterwards incorporated (or better stated) its

203
specimens and treasures were transferred to the Colonial Museum,
under the charge of Dr. Hector, who has devoted himself with some
thing like enthusiasm to the task of building up an institution worthy
of the colony. I have not yet forgotten the difficulties that stood in
the way of its foundation, its birth, and early life. Awkward ques
tions were asked in the House of Representatives why the province
of Wellington should be singled out and have provided for it a
Museum at the expense of the colony, when the other provinces of
New Zealand were doing their best to make an effort to establish and
endow museums out of provincial funds. Fortunately for WeUington
— let us say for the colony — the representatives of that view were in
a minority, and thus the Colonial Museum at Wellington, duly nurtured,
soon began to grow with a healthy and vigorous growth. There were
others — scientific men resident in Wellington — who were connected
with its earliest days, who directly and actively contributed to its
foundation on a firm footing ; notably Mr. ManteU and Mr. Crawford,
who for many years worked hard to help make it what it has become
— a benefit and a credit to the colony.
The Auckland Museum was established in 1853, principally
through the exertions of the late Dr. Sinclair and a few other gentie-
men. The coUections were lodged in a small house in Symonds
street, and placed under the care of one of the Provincial Govern
ment officials, and for a few years considerable progress was made ;
but after Dr. Sinclair's death they were much neglected and many
valuable specimens lost. On the formation of the Auckland Insti
tute in 1868 the care of the Museum was formaUy handed over to
it by the Provincial Government, together with a block of land at the
-corner of Princes street and Eden Crescent. On this site the Insti
tute, aided by the liberal subscriptions of its members, erected in
1876 the present Museum. Since then the progress of the Museum
has been highly satisfactory. Collections to illustrate the pecuUarities
of the fauna of New Zealand, its geology and mineralogy, have been
made ; and tolerably complete series of the birds, shells, minerals,
rocks, &c., are on exhibition. A fair coUection of birds, including
some'rare species from New Guinea and the Polynesian Islands, has
aheady been put together. A series of foreign shells is also exhibited.
Considerable attention has been devoted to Maori curiosities ; and
excellent specimens of their earrings, weapons, implements, &c., have
been obtained. During a recent session of Pariiament, a landed

204
endowment of the capital value of ;^io,ooo was set on one side for
the Auckland Museum, and a similar sum will shortly be received
under the wiU of the late Mr. Costley.
The above condensed narrative of the birth and growth of the
Auckland Museum is taken from an authentic source : " Brett's
Auckland Almanac." It speaks of the " Uberal conttibutions of its
members " in 1876. The story that was told in Auckland at that
time in connection with the improved position of the Museum was
that two of Auckland's richest men were one day seated face to face
at luncheon at the Northern Club, and that one said to the other, " "Why
don't you do a liberal thing and endow the Museum ? It is languish
ing for want of funds, and it is a disgrace to the people of Auckland
that such is the case." The reply was, " I will make an endowment
on condition that you supplement it by an equal amount." The
result was that each drew a cheque for ;£s°°- That was the
beginning of brighter days for the Auckland Museum. The example
then set has been largely foUowed. Men, like sheep, follow a leader,
and as often jump in the direction of good works as of wickedness.
Amongst the many men who have spent a long and useful life in'
Canterbury is our old friend, Mr. Cass, for many years well-kno-wn
as the chief surveyor of the province. He is still to be seen sunning
himself on fine days in the streets of Christchurch, although not so
brisk as he used to be. His friends always took the Uberty of calUng
him " old." He must therefore forgive me the impertinence. The
term " old " does not always or exclusively apply to advanced age.
It is a prefix bestowed on some before they grow old ; but it is only
awarded to "good fellows." Auckland can claim the honor of
introducing him to New Zealand. But he came into Canterbury a
long time ago — in the year 1850, with Captain Thomas, Canterbury
Association agent and chief surveyor, and has been the property of
Canterbury ever since. I know not how else to speak and write of
this man, in whom all old settlers take an interest, and for whom so
many profess a very warm regard. In the performance of his official
duties he was necessarily brought into close and frequent contact with
a large number of settlers ; was always ready in the politest possible
way to furnish all information sought ; and if not always able to give
all men all that they asked for in the way of concessions and privileges,
the applicants never left him without being satisfied with their
courteous reception. We none of us like to have " no " said to us

205
by a man in authority ; but there is a way of saying it which almost
reconcUes one to disappointment ; and this courteous and well-bred
man had the art, and practised it with great patience and success.
I knew another man in the Auckland province who for many
years officially represented the Government of the colony ; and of
whom it might well be said, that as a political representative whose
business it was to attempt to make bricks without straw (or would it
be more figuratively accurate to say — to make butter out of skimmed
milk) he had no equal. It would often happen that it would devolve
upon him to receive a deputation of settlers, who never paid him the
poor compliment of waiting upon him without a long list of wants
written down. A cluster of such would urge the necessity of a
bridge or a road in the locality in which they were personally
interested. But as a rule they had to go away empty ; unburdened
with the possession of anything beyond a promise that their
appUcation would be " very carefully considered, and favourably if
possible." This master of many arts and accomplishments would
bow them into his presence, request them to be seated, shake
hands with the head of the deputation (especially when he happened
to be the parliamentary representative of the district) and smile
blandly upon the rest. He would Usten with aU patience to a fuU state
ment of the case brought before him ; congratulate the district upon
being so well represented both in and out of Parliament ; and finish up
by expressing his very great satisfaction at the really remarkable
progress of the district since his last visit. The first man to speak
when out of hearing of the high official would remark, " WeU, it is
reaUy a pleasure to have to do with such a man ; how interested he
seemed to be in the matter brought before him — one thing at least is
quite clear, and that is, that if we don't get what we have asked for and
are clearly entitled to, it certainly won't be his fault."

CHAPTER XXV.
Canterbury Agricultural and Pastoral Association.
In writing of things interesting and useful to the people of Canterbury,
I must not overlook the claims of the Agricultural and Pastoral
Association to be ranked amongst the institutions of the place. In
the first number of the New Zealand Country Journal is to be read
a brief, but interesting narrative of its origin and development,
written by my friend, Mr. Robert Wilkin, and read at a meeting of
the members of the Society.
He writes : " The Association as it now stands, was founded in
1863 ; and their first exhibition of stock was held in that year on the
present show grounds. Before that year, however, several desultory
shows had been held, and these were the cause of the Association
being constituted. The first show was confined entirely to merino
sheep, and was held at Shepherd's Bush, Rangitata, the station of the
late Mr. B. Moorhouse, on Sept. 14th. 1859. There was a large
attendance considering the circumstances ; and all were hospitably
entertained by Mr. Moorhouse. Next year a show of a similar kind
was, held in August, at the site of the present township of Aushburton;
where at that date there was only one house — an accomodation-
house kept by Mr. Turton. In 1861 I do not recollect of any show
being held. But in 1862, a show of an enlarged character took place
in Mr. Justice Gresson's paddock, in Latimer Square. Although
there was no regularly constituted body up to that date, those who
took charge of these shows were spoken of as the ' Pastoral Associa
tion of Canterbury.' But in 1863, when the present Association was
organized, the designation was changed to the ' Canterbury Agricul
tural and Pastoral Association.' It will thus be seen that this Society
never had any connection with the old ' Farmer's Club,' but that it
had a purely independent origin."
I have copied, word for word, thus much out of the Country
Journal, touching the early history of the Association ; simply because
I am inclined to think and speak of the Society as now constituted,
as amongst the first and foremost of the institutions of the place.
These annual meetings are no longer to be spoken of as merely
shows of stock. They are now rightly regarded as Exhibitions ; at

207
which not only stock of all kinds and farming implements with the
latest improvements are to be seen ; but where also local industries,
great and small, are brought under the notice of people hitherto in
ignorance of their existence. The best of every kind of Uve stock
throughout New Zealand, finds its way into Christchuch at such
meetings ; and the strangers (I mean men who live outside of the
Umits of the Canterbury Provincial district) exhibiting at these shows
have no reason to complain of their ill-luck in the matter of prize-
taking. I have been present at these annual shows held at Auckland
and Dunedin. But in neither of these flourishing and populous
centres was the attendance equal to what it invariably is in Christ
church. And I have been a little puzzled in attempting to account
for the difference.
Both in Otago and in Auckland some of the very best stock —
sheep, cattle, and horses that New Zealand could boast of, and
belonging to men in the province — were exhibited, and in perfect
condition ; but there was a sad faUing off" in the attendance. Of
course people from the country were well represented ; but I looked
in vain for the crowds of business men and artizans, for the men,
women, and children that swarm through the entrance gates at the
Christchurch Exhibition.
In Auckland the success of these shows is thought to be
interferred with to some extent by counter attractions on the Show
Day. Boating and pic-nicing up and down the beautiful harbour of
Auckland is always a favourite recreation. The attendances at these
yearly shows, held in Christchurch for the past six or seven years,
average from 15,000 to 18,000. The offices of president and vice-
president are held for one year only. The Committee is annually
elected by the members. In the election of these oflScers great care
is taken to secure men who are Ukely to take an active interest in the
business of the Society. And equal care taken to see them filled in
turn by the representatives of the different interests in the province.
One year you may see a squatter fiUing the office of " President;" in
another year a bona fide practical farmer ; in the following year a
banker ; and then a merchant, and so on. Thus this Association
may rightly be spoken of as representing aU important interests in
the colony ; and so long as that wide and wise rule is carefully ob
served, there need be no fear of its shows ceasing to command the
support of aU classes and sections of the community.

CHAPTER XXVI.
Canterbury Newspapers — The LytteUon Times — The Press — Crosbie Ward— Mr.
John OUivier.
Unquestionably the safeguard of free institutions is the existince of
well- written newspapers. Britons now-a-days don't feel at home in a
land where newspapers don't flourish — and the existence of one news
paper with party political views ably set forth, necessitates the
bringing out of another with opposite views. The first newspaper-
sheet that shed ink on behalf of the Canterbury pilgrims was the
Lyttelton Times. The type and plant fitted for the work were, oddly
enough, seasonably found rolled up in the goods and chattels of one
of the first fleeters. I have before me whUst -wrriting, the first
number of this now important and well-got up daily newspaper. It
is very modest in size — not much larger than a child's pocket-hand
kerchief or a theatrical programme — but it is full of big anticipations
as to the future of the Canterbury settlement. It was first known to
all the world as a weekly issue (no joke is here intended) ; it then
was published twice a week ; subsequently, every second day ; and
finaUy, it became a daUy. It is right to mention the fact that its first
proprietor and editor was Mr. Ingram Shrimpton.
The Lyttelton Times, although the first printed and pubUshed
newspaper in the province, was not the first published newspaper in
Christchurch. Before the Lyttelton Times printing press was to be
seen at work in Christchurch, the Guardian had been pubUshed in
the metropolis of the province. It had but a short existence. The
Canterbury Standard also was ' published in Christchurch shortiy
after. The politics of the Lyttelton Times were, from its beginning,
served up " hot and strong ;" writers therein being apparentiy anxious
to show that the abundant supply of milk and water in this new land
of Goshen was not to be allowed to adulterate the ink of newspaper
criticism. Its readers seemed soon to realise that this was so, and in
their pride, spoke of it as the " tear-' em" — the watch-dog — of Can
terbury. It is not good for a newspaper, whatever its politics and how
ever well written it may be, to be aUowed to have aU its own way.

209
Neither governments, newspapers, nor individuals are the better of
that amount of indulgence. Thus thought a goodly number of
settlers, who set to work to establish an opposition paper. The Press
was born in the year 1861, and these two newspapers— the Lyttelton
Times and the Press — have done their best ever since that day to
interest lookers-on with the spectacle of a well-contested game of
battiedore and shuttiecock with grave political questions. I have
naught to do with chronicling wars waged between these well-armed
warriors. Of course they took opposite views on every conceivable
question under the political sun. That was to be expected, and was
altogether in the interest of the communhy. The only objection
that I know of to the circulation of two equally well-informed and
well-written newspapers is, that sometimes it becomes a littie difficult
to make up one's mind upon a given question. O'Connell once said
that he relied on newspapers for his facts ; but that his opinions and
politics came from quite another source.
The Lyttelton Times began to grow with a vigorous growth as
soon as it got into the hands of Crosbie Ward, who in the year 1856
became one of its chief proprietors and editor. He was one of the
early pUgrims, and amongst those who at once exhibited their fitness
for political and parliamentary life. He was without doubt a clear
headed, a logical-minded, and a capable m.an. I knew nothing of
his business qualifications ; but it is easy to believe that the man who
so successfully piloted a newspaper through the stormy sea of colonial
poUtics, and faced and conquered the financial difficulties incidental to
the first stage of a newspaper's existence, must have had in him some
thing more than political knowledge. I know more of the part that
he played in parliamentary life, and of the estimation in which he was
held by competent judges in other parts of New Zealand. In deal
ing with questions of finance, and in speaking from a purely utilitarian
point of view, I don't think that he had, in those days of our parlia--
mentary history, a rival. ,
It is no less true of New Zealand than it is and ever has been
of aU other ParUaments, that very few men, although qualified by
education for the work, devote themselves with patience to unravelling
the intricacies of the finance involved in politics. The subject
appears to have littie or no attraction for the majority of Parliament
men, and it is the commonest thing in the worid to find individuals
in aU other respects reaUy accomplished men, shrink with a childish

diffidence from touching the financial aspect of even grave political
questions. But what the majority of men in Parliament shrink from
touching, this man laid a firm hold of, and soon succeeded in satisfying
the House and the country that he had made a special study of
finance. It is not too much to say that finance, thoroughly mastered,
ought to be regarded as the foundation of all political training. No
man in these days can hope to make his mark who has not the
gift of dealing exhaustively with financial questions.
It is supposed that a man who devotes himself heartily to that
branch of politics is rarely to be found amongst the front rank of
men exhibiting an aptitude for the highest form of statesmanship.
But Crosbie Ward was a striking instance to the contrary. In his
grasp of finance, and his very-much-at-home manner in dealing
with it, there were few men in our colonial Parliament who came near
him ; and in his general aptitude for political work he was quite up
to the average of legislators. He spoke on all questions, political as
well as financial, with a fluency and force that has seldom been sur
passed in the Parliament of New Zealand. He held office, I think,
in two General Government administrations. When representing the
colony in England, he arranged the terms upon which the Panama
steam mail service was settled.
He is credited with having had a good deal to do -with the
contributions to the Canterbury Pzmch. If it be true that the poUtico-
biographical and anecdotal portraits that illustrate and illuminate
that clever sheet are to be put down to his credit, then he has another
gift that I had almost overlooked. The Canterbury Punch of 1865
was short-lived, but while it lasted it could only be spoken of as witty
and wise, and not more wicked than its great contemporary and
prototype in the old country.
The variety and brilliancy of Mr. Crosbie Ward's laughter-pro
voking hits justify the opinion that he had a lively and pleasant wit,
and that had he not been prematurely cut down, he would have
developed into a high-class literary man. Some of his political squibs
in 1865, written at the time of the contested election to the Superinten
dency, are clever beyond the average of such productions, and I doubt
not to a large extent influenced many independent electors. Some of
the liveliest, truest, and best bits in the " Canterbury Rhymes ' are also
said to have been the production of his pen. They were written six-
and-twenty years ago, and when written were received and read by

211
" old identities " with shouts of approbation. He was the writer of
" The Runaways," which, further on in these pages, may be read in
chapter twenty-nine. He also wrote the " Song of the Squatters,"
which is more than likely to outlive that very respectable institution
and the men who benefited by it. There is another contribution to
these "Canterbury Rhymes" well worth reproducing here. It is
written over the initials " M. P. S." Let my readers judge :—
THE OVERSEER'S LAMENT.*
(Adapted from Hoods " Song of the Shirt " to the circmnstatices of an Overseer in the
service of Long Clarke."
With breeches thread-bare and worn,
With jumper running to seed,
An overseer sat in a stringy-bark hut.
Smoking his favourite weed.
Puff ! puff ! puff !
" Oh ! when shall I rise from this state ?"
And still with a voice of dolorous pitch,
He sang the song of his fate.
" Ride ! ride ! ride !
While the cock is crowing aloof !
And ride — ride — ride,
Till the stars shine through the roof !
It's oh, to be a Super
Along with some western swell,
Where man has never a stiver to save.
But sometimes gets a spell.
" Ride ! ride ! ride !
Till my boots are rusty and worn !
And — ride — ride — ride !
Till my breeches are tattered and torn ;
Plain, and gully, and range,
Range, and gully, and plain,
Till over the saddle I fall asleep,
To waken and ride again.
" Oh ! squatters with beautiful runs !
Oh ! squatters with fattening plains !
Not feed alone are you wearing out, .
But you're sowing rheumatic pains !

* Australia, not New Zealand, is the scene of the woes endured and described by the
overseer.

Twitch ! twitch ! twitch !
I feel it in all my bones,
Sowing at once with a double stitch.
Colonial experience and groans.
" But why do I talk of rheumatics ?
That phantom of aching bone ;
I hardly fear his terrible shape.
It seems so like my own —
It seems so like my own,
Because of the spills I reap.*
Oh ! that runs should be so dear.
And overseers so cheap !
" Ride ! ride ! ride !
My labour never flags :
And what are its wages ? Forty a year,
And these two wretched nags.
This mutton-chop — and this damper queer —
A stretcher — a 'possum rug —
And so wretched all that the traveller here
But seldom shows his mug !
" Count ! count ! count !
The thousands of every flock.
Count — count — count !
Till I've counted my master's stock ;
Ewes, and wethers, and lambs,
Lambs, and wethers, and ewes.
Till the eyes are dazzled, the hurdles smashed.
And my shins are all in a bruise.
" Snip ! snip ! snip !
¦When the shearing season's come,
And snip — snip — snip !
But never a keg of rum !
Curse, and squabble, and row,
Row, and squabble, and curse.
Till niy eyes are blackened, my ' claret ' drawn,
As well as my private purse.
" Oh ! but to breathe the breath
Of the Royal Hotel in town ;
A prime Manilla in my mouth.
Whilst I knock my earnings down!

* Clarke's horses are notorious buck-jumpers.

213
Oh ! but for one short month.
To spree as I used to spree,
Before I knew the Super's berth.
In the days when I was free !
" Oh, but for one short week !
A respite, however brief !
No blessed leisure for love or lush.
But only time for grief !
A httle drinking would ease my mind.
But in its secret lurk
The grog must stop, for every drop
Would hinder station work !"
With breeches threadbare and worn,
With jumper running to seed,
An overseer sat in a stringy-bark hut,
Smoking his favourite weed.
Puff! puff! puff!
Oh, when shall I rise from this state ?
And still with a tone like a heart-broken lark —
Would that its wail would reach Long Clarke —
He sang the song of his fate. M. P. S.
January, iSjs-
I knew Crosbie Ward well politically, but I can hardly be said
to have known him thoroughly in other respects. Men who did —
who had the privilege of his friendship, and who still have a vivid
recollection of his varied gifts — speak enthusiastically of his many
accomplishments, and very tenderly of those other gifts that brighten
the life of the possessor and account for the attachment of friends.
There is amongst us a man " whom not to know argues oneself
unknown." He says he is 73 years of age, and he is a man who
speaks truth : but in this matter no one cares to believe him. And
if he still goes on doing the work of a man in his prime, why should
he be believed? He came to the Colony in 185^, has worked hard
ever since ; has never made an enemy ; has never lost a friend ; and
looks as if he thought that this world is indeed a very pleasant place
tp dwell in. Readers, can you not guess of whom I am writing thus ?
My pen is sputtering with impatience at being not allowed to write at
once the name of John OUivier.
In the year 1881, eight and twenty years after his arrival in
Canterbury, his fellow-colonists seemed suddenly to wake up to the

214
recoUection that there was amongst them a man deserving of aU
honour for his many public ser-vices, and for whom they had a very
warm regard. And on the loth of October in that year a large
number of men, representative of all interests in the province, were
gathered together to present him with an address and a testimonial.
At this meeting were merchants, auctioneers, land agents, engineers,
hotelkeepers, press men, runholders, lawyers, bankers, physicians,
surgeons and many others embracing all professions and caUings. A
judicious selection of a chairman was made on this occasion. Mr. (now
Sir) John HaU, then Premier of the colony, ably filled the position
that he found himself in. After calling upon those present to drink
Mr. OUivier's health, he interested them not a little by referring at
some length to the home and colonial career of their old friend ;
speaking enthusiastically of what he had done, what he was stUl
doing, and what the world might expect him to do in the future.
He not only went back to the year " one " in the history of the
Canterbury settlement ; but as might have been expected of this man
of method and Parliamentary experience, he had provided himself
with documents relating to a period before the existence of the
Canterbury settlement. How far this was judicious, let us see. He
held in his hand a letter which he read. It was addressed to Mr.
OUivier on the eve of his departure from the old country, and signed
by one representing a large number of the men amongst whom he
had for some time lived. Here is an extract from it — " Of all the
men whom I have ever encountered, you appear to me to have stood
pre-eminent in talent and business habits. Always taking the side of
justice, mercy, and good order, opposing every measure of a contrary
tendency ; whilst the moderation and soundness of your views, and
the honesty of purpose with which they have been invariably
advocated never failed to carry with them the sympathy and respect
of your political opponents. In the pain of separation it is a con
solation to your many friends to remember that your sphere of
usefulness is only about to be removed, and that in all human proba
bility you wUl be called upon to exercise your abUities in some other
portion of our Sovereign's dominions, where your past conduct
sufficiently guarantees that they will be employed in upholding aU
lawful authority, and in the endeavour to benefit your fellow men. —
(Signed)  . St. James', Westminster, July 6th, 1853."
The writer of this letter expressing the convictions and feelings

21S
of a large number of people, seemed to have been endowed with
prophetic wisdom when he said, that doubtless Mr. OUivier would
soon find himself again in a part of the world where his qualities and
general aptitude for work would be quickly recognised and utiUzed.
Mr. Hall spoke out bravely in enumerating the many claims that this
veteran in the army of humane men had on the regard of his friends.
He admitted that he experienced some difficulty in the performance
of the duty that he had undertaken. The task was a delicate one,
and he trusted that he might not be guilty of saying more than was
agreeable to Mr. OUivier, or leave unsaid anything that might with
propriety be said. From the day of Mr. OUivier's arrival in the
province in 1853, he seemed always to have found something to do
in the interests of the public. And yet he has, all his life, been much
occupied over his own private business. One is tempted to ask, how
it is that the most useful men in the world in public matters are nearly
always to be found amongst the men who seem fully employed in
their own business. That he took an active and laborious part in
public affairs outside of his official duties was known to us all ; and it
is satisfactory to see that he is none the worse of his long-continued
labours. We many of us remember him in the Provincial Council. He
did good ser^'ice there in the early days of provincial institutions. He
was the trusted representative of the late William Sefton Moorhouse,
during the most eventful part of that enterprising Superintendent's
tenure of office. He afterwards became Speaker of the Provincial
CouncU. His personal friends (not his personal enemies, for he never
had any) said, that the object of putting him into the Speaker's chair
was to put a stop to his speaking. He could stand that sort of
rubbing up at the hands of his friends as well as any man I ever
knew, — could tolerate good-natured impertinence, when he was made
a butt of I think Canterbury Punch lived upon him for a season.
There was some solid satisfaction in cutting and slashing into a man
of substance like him. It was a splendid opportunity to indulge in
the game of cut and come again. Punch was published only once a,
week, and it took hardly a week for any wound to heal that they had
the power of inflicting on him. None enjoyed a legitimate joke more
heartUy than did he. And I think that, rather than not be tickled at
all, he would periodicaUy have offered himself to be politically
Punched. He holds a conspicuous place in a cartoon in Punch,
where he is drawn with a patch of dirt on his face thrown at him by

2l6
a big boy, whose bills he refused to accept ; but I have often thought of
that as one of PuncKs failures. The patch, as drawn, is a little too like
a star to be ugly, and certainly has the effect of lighting up a
sympathetically cheerful face. Only that the thing is impossible;
one is disposed to think that this good all-round and generally useful
man, poUticaUy and socially, must himself have been on Punch's staff.
But Canterbury Punch after all, in his wickedest moods, touched him
tenderly ; spoke gratefully of the amount of public work that he was
in the habit of doing for nothing, in speaking, promising, and perform^
ing ; and proudly boasted that he was not a man to be " put down ''
at any time. Punch informed the world that this very useful member
of society had from infancy shown a very decided disinclination to
being thrown, or left on his back — hence his fitness for poUtical and
parliamentary life. As, therefore he was never down, it followed that
he was always up ; ready to rise, and rise, and rise again to the
occasion. And in allusion to this cork-like habit of always rising to
the surface, Punch thought fit to supply him with the following
motto : — " Resurgo. — I rise again, sir."
His energy and public spirit found active employment in the
furtherance of many laudable public undertakings unconnected with
politics, in helping every proposal for providing healthy pubUc
amusement and recreation, and in working out one scheme after
another for beneficial and charitable purposes. Mr. HaU thus spoke
of him. And having got thus far, he dared to add that '¦ No man
could come near him for extracting money out of his fellow-settlers.
An accomplishment that made him at once their hope and their
dread ; and that no cause in Canterbury, either public or private,
had ever asked in vain for the aid of his ready voice or strong hand
to help it through its difficulties. His sufficient reward was the pleasure
that arises from giving pleasure to others, and the happiness of seeing
those around him happy.''
He laughingly noticed Sir John Hall's allusion to his " sticking-
up " propensities, and the great success that resulted from his
exertions, saying, " I have been told that I am a regular old impostor
and a nuisance. I believe that I am. I admit that I have imposed
upon you, if exciting your generosity is imposition." He spoke of
being taken by surprise by such a demonstration and its accompani-
jnent. That he had been contented through life to find that
wherever he went he had encountered an " outstretched hand and a

217
cordial grip ; " expressing his hope that others would be judged as
generously as he had been, and treated with the same warm-hearted
regard and encouragement.
The occasion referred to must have been a trying one for a man
conscious of having striven hard during a long Ufe, to be and to do aU
that these men had given him credit for ; and Mr. OUivier showed that
it was so. It was never said of John OUivier that he could find no
words to plead the cause of one who needed his advocacy, or to urge
the merits of a scheme that his intellect approved, and his heart was
engaged in ; but it was seen on this occasion that he had very great
difficulty in finding words to express his feelings of thankfulness and
pride for the hearty appreciation of his attempts to do, what he fitly
spoke of as, his duty to his fellow men.

CHAPTER XXVII.
Christ's College Grammar School — Open to all throughout New Zealand •
William John Warburton Hamilton — Henry John Tancred.
In what is called "The School list of Christ's College Grammar
School from 1852 to 1877," with an " Introduction " written by the
sub-warden and published by authority, we have set forth a full and
accurate history of the rise and progress, the anticipations and
successes of the CoUegiate School that now occupies so important a
position among the educational institutions of the provincial district
of Canterbury. The writer states : — " The difficulties and disapoint-
ments which the early colonists of Canterbury were called upon to
encounter in their endeavours to carry out the ecclesiastical and
educational schemes of the association were great.'' Again : — " The
miserable scantiness of resources on the one hand, and the inexorable
necessities of early colonial life on the other, combined to heighten
the contrast between the gorgeous anticipations and the humble
realization to such a degree that many who had been among the most
enthusiastic in England lost heart altogether, and either returned
whence they came, or sank into a state of discontented apathy.""
Further : — " Some, however, had sufficient faith in the principles put
forward by the founders of the Canterbury Association to fight for
them. These men stuck to their colours ; and waiting with patience,
and watching with anxiety, they at last reaped and benefited by the
harvest that the sun of prosperity secured to them.'' It is not my
intention to quote at any great length from this interesting narrative
written by the sub-warden.
A site having been procured, great efforts were made here and in
England to procure sufficient funds to enable the promoters to com
mence a building. Meanwhile, the Bishop of Christchurch arrived. He
also, before leaving England, had exerted himself with some success to
make collections for the buUding fund ; and his arrival is said to have
given a fresh impetus to this and every other work in connection with
the institution. BuUdings were commenced and finished ; and finally
in 1867 a College chapel was erected and opened for divine service.
An important addition to this chapel was completed last year. In its-
enlarged and improved form it is an ornamental feature in the grounds.

219
The governing body of Christ's College Grammar School, and
the master and assistant masters have to be congratulated upon the
state and prospects of the institution. Up to 1877, the number of
those admitted to the school was 759. The actual number attending
classes at the commencement of the first term in 1884 is 189. The
boys, as they appear in the grounds and in the neigbourhood, have
the look of boys weU cared for. There are many proofs of discipline
throughout the establishment ; and there is discoverable in the boys
a bearing that visitors are not slow to notice, and that parents have
reason to be satisfied with. It is truly a colonial institution, open as
it is to the sons of settiers in every part of New Zealand. For many
years it was the only school of the kind largely attended ; and was
rightly regarded by most settiers in Canterbury as equal to the
requirements of the province. The founders of Christ's College were
ambitious of establishing a classical school on the model of the
public schools of England, where they had themselves received their
education ; and what was aimed at was to cultivate in the boys a
capacity for acquiring knowledge hereafter rather than to perfect them
in what is called a commercial education.
Other schools are now growing up. There is room for them all.
It is well-known that Christ's College has been largely and very
wisely utilized by settlers in what may without offence be spoken of as
every station of life. I have known of many such instances ; but I
have never known of one instance in which the results have not been
satisfactory. I have a friend, who for some years after his arrival in
the colony, worked as a labouring man — harder than any slave, to
acquire means to enable him to give his children a better education
than his father had been able to afford him. With this laudable ambition
stirring him, he sent his son to Christ's College. It cost him some
thing to swallow his prejudice against placing his boy amongst others
whose fathers were richer and bigger men than himsflf ; but like a
man he put away his pride, and is now made happy at finding his
boy settling down to work, and holding his own with lads of the same
age, very differently brought up. One doubt as to the success of the
experiment clung to his mind — troubled him ; and that was the dread
of his son being spoiled for hard work. He feared that his son
might grow a little bit ashamed of his father's incurable habit of work
ing with his hands as weU as his head. But the sequel has proved that
the boy was made of the right stuff — superior to such nonsense ; and

220
the father is vastly delighted at the fact that his boy is not only
studious at school, but is stUl useful at home.
A very spacious page in the book of colonial life is well covered
with instances of men of intelligence and thrift developing into men of
substance and influence. Such instances can hardly be spoken of as
illustrating the romance of real life, for they have a very substantial
foundation in fact in the colonies — are more the rule than the excep
tion — and as facts they are vastly more interesting than as fiction ;
showing that the "levelling up'' dreamt of by reformers and poets in
the old world is in numberless cases realized in the new. A man
emerging from the labouring-class in the colonies, with one foot on the
mound of a higher social position, is at times sorely tried by the
attitude and criticism of his old friends and companions. They don't
think overmuch of him if he shows a very great haste to abandon
his old ways ; and very few of these men who are so ambitious of
ascending in the social scale that I have known intimately are wholly
superior to the dread of being branded as deserters from the ranks of
their old associates. Such men are not always understood and done
justice to, either by men above or below them ; they need to be
approached cautiously and touched very tenderly. They are too proud
to try to conceal their primitive ways and plain speech ; and never can
tolerate a blundering attempt at overtures of sympathy and friendship
coming from men more refined than themselves. I have often heard
labouring men speak with bitterness of the rich and more or less
refined class ; asserting that they have no care, no concern for men
poorer and less cultivated than themselves ; and I have had some
trouble to convince them that many of the men thus spoken of desire
nothing more than to live on friendly terms and be of use to their
less-cultivated neighbours ; and that they shrink from offering
sympathy and friendship, lest it be spurned and spoken of as a
patronizing impertinence.
If education be of the right sort, it wiU eradicate to a great
extent the pride and prejudice of the labouring man, and embolden
the cultivated in approaching them to put away their reserve, for the
sake of giving pleasure to those whose early surroundings have been
obstacles to their cultivation and refinement. Those who think that
fruit and flowers are only to be gathered from trees and shrubs that
have been highly cultivated, have something still to learn. In
Nature's primeval forest, in the orchards and gardens of homely and

primitive Ufe, are growing fruits and flowers discoverable by the
earnest seeker after them. They are as weU worthy of admiration
and regard as any to be met with in the hot-houses of refined society.
Such fruit wiU be found palatable, and quite suitable to a sound and
healthy constitution.
The Twenty-first Anniversay of the Settlement of Canterbury,
in the year 187 1, December i6th, was made a day of great
rejoicing, not only by pilgrims, but by aU Canterbury colonists,
within easy reach of Christchurch. How many of the old stock,
bona fide pUgrims, were on exhibition that day, there are now no
means of ascertaining ; but it is quite true that aU Christchurch turned
out in their go-to-meeting clothes, met, and made merry. The
newspapers spoke of the occasion as " a grand out-of-door demon
stration,'' giving the honour of sounding the key-note for special
rejoicings to the " Popular Amusement Association '' that seemed to
have suggested, planned, and provided amusement for all ; and that
the programme was no sooner published than Christchurch gave it
support en masse. Men, women, and chUdren turned out, looking
their best, laughing their loudest, and making merry over the notion
that the province of Canterbury had at length " come of age," and
had every right to be regarded as a fine fellow. Friendly societies
blocked the way. Almost every fellow that was not an OddfeUow
was a Forester, and a man who was neither one nor the other was on
that day thought very little of
By the sober-minded of the community, a meeting was called to
consider the suitableness of establishing an observatory to com-
memmorate the great occasion. The meeting was attended by some
of our best men, and everything but finding the money was quickly
and satisfactorily discussed and disposed of Year by year these
pUgrims and first colonists are slipping out of sight. Only a few
months ago was recorded the disappearance of one of the best known
amongst them — Mr. HamUton. Recently was announced the death
of Mr. Henry John Tancred. Both of these men had earned a
reputation for public spirit, an unselfish devotion to duty during a
a long colonial career. Of the early history of the former, Mr.
Hamilton, we have been told in a recent number of the Lyttelton
Times much that many of us had not previously known. How that
he first landed in New Zealand (Auckland), in 1842, accompanying
the Governor, Captain Fitzroy, who appointed him his Secretary,

And that he afterwards stood in the same relation to Sir George Grey.
" During those earliest years in the history of New Zealand he must
have witnessed much that was interesting ; have been present at
many a historic interview with the famous Maoris of that early time."
A part of his duty was to write despatches, and a part of his recreation
to make himself agreeable to the Governor's guests. After occupying
himself thus for a time he left New Zealand ; but returned to it,
having been appointed to H.M.S. Survey ship Acheron. WhUst
attached to her he was concerned in exploring in the South Island.
" Those were rough days of adventure for Air. Hamilton, his leader,
and comrades,'' says the writer. When this work of exploration and
survey was finished, he was appointed a Resident Magistrate at
Wanganui. Whilst loyally devoting himself to the maintenance of
law and order, he contrived to make himself acceptable to the
Natives, who seemed never to have forgotten the earnest interest
that he took in them, and the good that he did for them.
His career in that part of New Zealand is spoken of as a great
success. "Before his time no one had ventured to go further
than persuasion. Justice and action were his watchwords ; firmness
and kindness were his methods. The result was that the Natives
trusted him, and he always spoke well of them." Like many another
man whom I have known, whose experience amongst the Natives
dates so far back as those days, he had great difficulty in believing
that they could ever deserve to be treated with severity. They had
treated him hospitably, submitted to him patiently, and had always
shown a disposition to be guided by him. That if they were, what
they were said to be, so changed as to have outgrowm their kindliness
and submissiveness to law and order they must have been cruelly ill-
treated, and much tried by those in authority.
In 185s, Mr. Hamilton came to Canterbury, sent to organize the
Customs department, since which time his connection with Canter
bury remained unbroken to the day of his death. We in Canterbury
know well that he has always been fully occupied not only in the
performance of official and public duties, but also in taking an active
part in promoting and joining in the recreations of the people.
" Conscientiousness and thoroughness " are spoken of as the most
distinguishing traits in his character. His personal friends speak o^
his generosity and the depth of his affection, and proudly maintain
that his " standard of principle was remarkably high.

223
A writer in the Press newspaper, in referring to the late Mr. Henry
John Tancred, so recently passed away, says, " But it is especially
as a Canterbury man that his loss wUl be long and acutely felt by
those who value the qualities for which he was pre-eminent. A highly
cultured, courteous gentleman, he was always ready to assist any good
cause when it was in his power to do so. His high character as a
man of the strictest honor, his independence of mind, and his public
spirit — these qualities, even more than his proved capacity, made his
presence welcome in all business, public and private.'' It was well
said by one of our Judges, Mr. Justice Johnstone, in speaking of
his life and sorrowing over his death, that " such men have helped to
procure for the colony the good name which it bears in the world.
Every day, in every society, in every public office, in every business
circle, his absence is keenly felt, and men feel that they cannot easily
replace him. But in private life, among his own intimate friends, it
is felt that he cannot be replaced at all. His cultivated mind, Uterary
taste and genial humour, made him a delightful companion ; while his
affectionate disposition made him a favourite in every house he
frequented, from the elders to the smallest child."
The Church News also has in it an article noticing the death of
Mr. Tancred. In speaking of his loss, and the work done by him,
they say, "his work has by no means been confined to one province
or diocese ; on the contrary, no Canterbury colonist has done so
much as he to make his province respected throughout New Zealand;
not only by the high character he bore, but by the services he rendered
to the country at large. As a statesman, he was utilized and re
spected ; as a churchman he was spoken of as ' staunch to the core,'
He was a great reader, a man ofphUosophicalmind, and one who kept
himself abreast with the age ; but his views were formed on the sound
old school of Anglican divinity.''

CHAPTER XXVIII.
Mr. Dobson, the late Provincial Engineer — His connection with the Lyttelton
and Christchurch Railway Tunnel — Dr. Barker.
I WONDER how many of my readers have seen and read a paper
intituled " Memoir on the Public Works of the Province of Canter
bury, New Zealand," by Edward Dobson, Associate of the Institute
of Civil Engineers. This paper was printed and pubUshed in
London, 1870 Into this memoir is introduced in extenso an article
extracted from the Lyttelton Times. As this is an authoritative and
carfuUy-written article, I shall quote freely from it to show that the
man who laid out the tunnel and prepared the plans and specifications
deserves all the credit that he has ever got firom the Canterbury
public for his engineering skill and steady perseverance in watching
over its progress to completion. He is thus spoken of by the writer
of the article referred to : —
" And not to the contractor only but to the engineer, Mr. Edward
Dobson, is a debt equally due. Of him it may fairly be said that
latterly his whole energies — his very being — have merged themselves
into the tunnel. Whatever the most unwearied care and the closest
supervision could effect for the benefit of the great work, has been
done by him. His name deserves to be — and doubtless will be —
brought prominently before his professional brethren in the Old
World as soon as the successful result of this great experiment
becomes known. The total length of the tunnel — as nearly as can
be ascertained at the present time — is in round numbers 2,870 yards,
and the cost according to the contract is ;^i95,ooo."
As early as 1854 a Commission was appointed, of which Mr.
Dobson formed one, to report upon the several modes of communi
cation between the port and the plains. Again, in 1858, a second
Commission was appointed, in which Mr. Dobson's name again
appears, and at the same time a Commission was appointed in
London, consisting of Messrs. Gumming, Selfe, and FitzGerald, with
instructions to refer the question of route to Mr. R. Stevenson, who
referred it to Mr G. R. Stevenson, who decided in favour of the route
subsequently adopted.

225
The contractors, Messrs. George Holmes and Co., of Melbourne,
had to contend with difficulties quite serious enough to have
frightened men less determined and persevering than they proved
themselves to be ; and to their steadiness and perseverance the
province mainly owes the fact that this weary work was at last
brought to a successful issue.
These particulars and the fuller statement in the memoir referred
to were spoken of by the President at the meeting of the Institution
of Civil Engineers in London as very interesting and satisfactory,
and as evidencing on the part of the author in their preparation
much care, labour, and attention.
When Mr. Moorhouse was exhibiting in Melbourne the drawings,
plans, and specifications that had been prepared by Mr. Dobson, the
men with whom he was negotiating could not refrain from expressing
approval and surprise at the completeness and accuracy of the work
exhibited, saying, "You must be well served by your engineer ; he
must be a competent man to have worked out these plans and speci
fications in this style." The Superintendent highly estimated the
services rendered to the province by Mr. Dobson when Provincial
Engineer, speaking enthusiastically of his connection with the
tunnel. Who that has lived over ten years in this land of progress has
forgotten Dr. Barker, a very prominent figure for many years in the
early days of Canterbury. " No one entered with more keenness
and ardour into all the phases of the strangely-interesting life of that
pecuUar period. No one's spirits were more irrepressible, although
like most men of the same temperament, he had his occasional
moods of depression. No one was more useful or more kind, and
none perhaps had more opportunities of showing kindness, since for
several years he was the only medical man practising his profession
on the plains. He pitched his tent in the centre of the then imagi
nary capital, on the site of the house where he lived more than
twenty-two years, and where he died."
A story is told in his family of a half-clever attempt that he
made to cross the river Heathcote, when he had a narrow escape
from drowning. In the absence of a boat or canoe he looked about
to see if there were any materials to construct something to serve as
a substitute. On the banks grew abundantly in those days flax, out
of which the long flowering sticks in dozens projected. It at once
Q

226
occurred to him that here was the very thing that he was looking for.
He cut the sticks, but was in despair to know what to do for bands
to bind them together. In his extremity he tied his handkerchief
round them in the middle. He then, with this long prop tucked under
his arms, plunged into the river. The current being strong caught the
ends of the flax-sticks and caused them to open out like a fan.
When claiming credit for his cleverness in thus utilising flax-sticks,
and how he had done his best to brace them together with his
pocket-handkerchief, he was asked why he had not taken the leaves
of the flax-plant as bands and so made a complete raft. The flax
was there, but it never occurred to him to cut and utilise it,
" He was a scientific man and a very independent thinker, but
he is said never to have lost his hold on the Truth of truths ; his
heart was as sound as his practice. He spent much time in the
service of the Museum. He was also an amateur architect. His
last work was one of considerable importance ; it consisted in the
preparation of plans and working drawings for the library forming
part of Christ's College. In this he was engaged to within a fort
night of his death. This will be his memorial. Long, very long,
will he be missed and regretted as a warm friend and an honest, true-
hearted man, an accomplished gentleman, and a consistent Christian."
The substantial part of the foregoing is extracted from the pages of
the Church Neivs of May, 1873.

CHAPTER XXIX.
Sir Frederick Whitaker.
Any one doubting the opinion that it is wise above all things to
work continuously during a long life ought to be satisfied of its
soundness on looking upon Sir Frederick Whitaker. Here is a man
who, up to a few months ago, has been doing an unlimited amount
of political and professional work since the year 1840 or 184 1, It
is at any rate a safe thing to say of him to begin with, that he has
never, even by his political opponents, been reproachfuUy spoken of
as an idler.
In the year mentioned I first met him in AustraUa, whither he
had gone on a visit to some relatives whom I had known intimately
for years. Although there are in the South Island of New Zealand
few who knew him in those days, there are many in the North, in
Auckland, who knew him at that time, and have never since lost
sight of him, except for a year or eighteen months, during which time
he was practising his profession in Dunedin. His love for the climate
or for the people of Auckland, or for both combined quickly brought
him back to the province of his first love ; where he is still to be seen,
and on occasions to be heard loudly maintaining, that as a place to
live in Auckland is far and away before all other places of Nature's
designing and of man's beautifying.
I renewed my acquaintance with him in 1854, when I saw and
heard him in the first Session of the first Parliament of New Zealand.
Until the removal of the seat of Government from Auckland to
WeUington he was a member of the Legislative Council. He was
Attorney-General in the Stafford Ministry. In 1865, on the retire
ment of the Domett administration, he became a member of the Fox-
Whitaker Ministry, which was succeeded by the Weld Ministry, of
which he was not a member. But since that time he has been in
many ministries ; and in more than one occupying the position of
Premier. He has quite lately retired from the labours and responsibilities
of office ; but he still holds a seat in the Legislative Council ; and
wiU, most likely in the coming Session of Parliament, be again seen

228
and heard. In his professional as well as in his political Ufe he has
worked with the regularity and steadiness of a machine. With the
exception of a trip to England, made five-and-thirty years ago or
more, I don't think he has even taken a long holiday, and he
certainly looks as if he had never needed one.
As he was always a worker, he hardly regarded a session of the
General Assembly as putting upon him a burden hard to be borne.
His long experience in political and parliamentary Ufe qualified him
to give advice and assistance to ambitious and inexperienced
politicians. By the party with whom he was politically connected
he was utiUzed in every way and at all times. He could and would
on the shortest possible notice suggest a fitting move on the parUa-
mentary chess board ; and was always as ready to oblige as he was
well-qualified to give advice. He had further, the not too common
-gift of being able to condense and fashion into a formula, views half-
expressed or floating in the minds of representatives who were
conscious of a desire to soar away into the higher regions of political
existence, but whose wings were hardly strong enough to enable them
to float in so elevated an atmosphere.
When I lodged under the same roof with him at ^^'ellington, he
seemed to me to be always receiving deputations from Auckland or
the Thames. In the House he was as regular in his attendance as
Mr. Speaker himself His mind was too occupied with the real
-business of legislation to admit of the possibility of his joining in the
parliamentary talk everlastingly going on in the House. But when
he spoke, his treatment of questions under discussion never bored
the House. His style of speaking was clear, concise, and logical, as
readily understood by young members as by old ; utterly free from
affectation of any sort. There was not a perceptible trace of senti
ment, much less of sentimentality in his dealing with important
questions — that exhibition he apparently left to others who seemed
ambitious of excelling in the art. Matter of fact as he was in his
manner of handling large questions as well as small, no one ever
grew weary in listening to him, for he never said a word more than
was necessary. Whether his views were approved or not, it never
could be said of them that they were indefinite. x\s he had been in
many ministries, holding office during the rule of many Governors,
he must have had an interesting and varied experience of men in
authority. Like all leading men in politics who have been long in

229
harness, he has been often praised and as often censured. He,
however, is not made of the stuff" that popular politicians are fashioned
out of If it was not in him to excite the enthusiasm of a mob ; it
was in him to do many and great services in the interest of the
colony, and of the constituencies that he represented.
I never knew a man in the General Assembly more scrupulously
particular not to throw the first stone in debate ; and I never knew
one, who under provocation and in self-defence, was better qualified
to take his own part, ^^'ith his colleagues in the Fox-Whitaker
Ministry he was involved in a serious disagreement with the Governor,
Sir George Grey, on the question of the disposal of the Maori
prisoners taken at Rangiriri, Finally, the Governor's suggestion that
they should be removed to Kawau was adopted, where they were
supposed to be carefuUy watched and guarded; but from which.
pretty prison they speedily made their escape. The story of their
escape, so well told in the " Canterbury Rh)-mes," and so well known
to residents, may fitly be inserted here for the entertainment of
strangers : —
*THE RUNAWAYS.
An Historical Ballad.
There was an Island in the sea,
Of which some people say
It was not very wise or old,
Although its head was Grey.
Now in this Island all the men
Fell out, as it was found,
Into a quarrel, though it was
Pacific all around.
For of the people some were black,
And others they were white ;
Which was a serious difference,
.So they began to fight. ,
One morn they fought, the fight was hot.
Although the day was show'ry
And many a gallant soldier then
Was bid Memento Maori.

*A second and a third escape of Maori prisoners may be recorded here. A number
prisoners who were kept on board a hulk in Wellington harbour, managed to escape,; and
similar feat was performed some years later at the Chatham Islands by the notorious Te Koo
This last escape cost the colony much blood and treasure.

23°
The smoke was thick, the blacks fell down
Upon the ground like rain ;
Though once they joined a rising, now
They'll never rise again.
And where the fire was very hot.
It made a number cold ;
It broke the ranks, it melted them,
And cast them on the mould.
Among the wounded was a man,
To whom the names belong
Of Enoch C/esar Palmerston,
Done into Maori tongue.
Now Enoh's leg had got in it
A bullet from a gun ;
And when he tried to cut away,
The wound began to run.
And since he could not run with it.
He stopped and bound his scars,
And though not hoping to be paid,
Was pitched upon by Tars.
AVho seeing Enoch so cast down,
They took him up so short ;
Said they " You are our prisoner,
So you must come to Court."
Said he, " I've got a ball inside," —
He did not mean to scoff —
" I'll go to Court, and you may then
Present and let me oft.''
"No, no ! " rephed the Boatswain's mate,
" Avast a bit, my hearty !
Let's see the ball " — but as he spoke,
They saw another party.
A party of Militia-nien,
An officer therewith ;
In camp he was a Corporal Jo.NES,
In town a general smith.
This Corporal had a warlike nose,
Gunpowdery in hue ;
It trumpeted his honours, but
It could not beat tattoo.

231
For Enoch's face was lined throughout
With ornamental scars
Of blue, with red ones added in
The Taranaki wars.
The first were cunning chisel marks,
The second, crooked ruts ;
Proofs, like the JVitness journal, of
Essays on Gold, with cuts.
This Jones took Exoch to the camp,
Where were a number more
Of Maoris, whom his comrades bold
Made prisoners before.
The General stood in front of them,
As upright as a larch ;
And, though November was the month.
He sent them off to march.
He sent them all on board a hulk,
Abreast of Auckland town :
He put them down the hold, and bade
The soldiers hold them down.
Some snivelled, going in ; some howled ;
Some noses blew, with bellows ;
But careful keeping in the hulk,
Soon made them hulking fellows.
Potatoes, bread, and milk, and meat.
Such was their commissariat.
Tobacco, to assauge their woe ;
And Doctor's stuff, to vary it.
At first they wanted bracing up,
Their clothes so hung about ;
But when they'd been a month on board,
They wanted letting out.
Add so they got a run ashore.
For souls' and bodies' profit,
•On Kawau's copper beach. Of course.
They cut their sticks from off it.
For Titus White who guarded them.
He left them on the shore ;
Says he, " They've got no boat, or gear,
Except the copper ore ;

232
"Therefore, they cannot leave the; Isle."
And at his joke he laughed ;
But, silly Titus White ! he quite
Forgot their native craft.
And so by night they ran away.
And got upon the main.
And in the morning TiTUS went
To fetch them back again.
At last he found them on a hill.
All fortified about.
They hollowed rifle pits within ;
And White he halloaed out.
And at his shout, so loud and long —
It was a wondrous sight —
Two hundred dusky faces, then.
Were turned at once to White.
" Come back " — he cried — " my prisoners ! "
Each hand directly rose,
And, with extended fingers, gave
Point to their silent noes.
" Come back unto your Governor ;
He will avenge your slights.
For Grey's the only medium
Between the Blacks and Whites."
Said they — "No, no ! that's very fine ;
But Grey will never d-o.
He is not black enough for u»
Nor white enough for you. ''
Said White — " You are his children dear.
And don't he love you, rather ?
So be advised, and leave your pa,
And come unto your father. "
" Perhaps," they said, " we were his sons.
But now we are better nursed.
We're Royal Maori Infantry,
And will see him farther first.''
Now Titus White was puzzled quite.
And knew not what to say ;
So went and told his tale, so- blue,-
Unto his head, Sir Grey.

233
" Go back, go back,"— replied his chief.
With sternness on his tongue, —
"They are our rebel prisoners,
Deserving to be hung.
" But tell them "—here he smiled so sly—
" To make them come the quicker,
I'll heap upon them chains of— land
And keep them tight in — liquor."
So Titus White went back to tell
His chiefs determination ;
With Native Office notes which formed
A very free translation.
" I and Sir George, we love you well,
Like brothers of your race.
We'll swear we do, till we're as black
As you are in the face.
" You shall be found in meat and drink,
Houses and gardens too ;
And make believe you're prisoners,
By having nought to do. "
" Give land ! " they said, " 'Tis all our own.
Do nought ; — we do it now !
Give meat ! — We shan't be hungry while
A settler owns a cow. "
" But if you must have prisoners,
You'll soon accomplish that :
Catch them when starving, and you may
Detain them till they're fat."
' ' Treat them like us, and do again
The same good natured thing ;
Recruit the Maori forces for
His Majesty the King." C. W.
There is in the papers published in the appendix to the journals
of the House of Representatives, 1863, a memorandum written and
signed by Mr. Domett, ' the then head of the Government — an im
portant as well as a well--wTitten document relating to the question of
responsibility in Native affairs. Mr. Domett seemed to think it
practicable that the responsibility in question could be shared by the
Governor and his Ministers — saying, in conclusion, that " the

234
Governor is responsible to the Imperial Government for his poUcy,
and the Ministers are responsible to the Assembly, under the resolu
tions, for faithfully endeavouring to carry it out. No one can deny
that many difficulties and anomalies must occur in such a system.
It is one which it is only possible to work where confidence exists
between the Governor and Ministers.''
But in practice this anomalous arrangement soon broke down,
resulting in the retirement of the Fox-^V'hitaker Ministry, and the
accession to office of Mr. Weld, the cardinal points of whose policy
were to do away with double government, and to petition the Home
Government to take away from the colony the Imperial troops, whose
presence in the colony involved a divided responsibility. That was
the beginning of the end of a very unworkable arrangement. The
colonial troops, from that time to this under the control of a respon
sible Ministry, have done all that has been required of them — have
conquered a peace and by their conduct have given rise to the -well-
founded belief that the colony is quite safe henceforth in relying
exclusively upon the pluck and discipline of its citizen soldiers.
In speaking further of Sir Frederick Whitaker, I may as well add
that in his younger days he was a lover of rnanly games, especiaUy
cricket, keeping up his wicket in approved form, and bowling out his
opponents with great ease.

CHAPTER XXX.
Sir Edward Stafford— Colonel Sir George Whitmore -The Colonial Forces.
Sir Edward Stafford's first .appearance in public on a political
platform, was during the discussions that were being carried on
throughout the colony in 1850, on the great question of the future
constitution for New Zealand. On these occasions, when quite a
young man, he is said to have spoken with a fluency and force that
justified the opinion that he had qualities which, developed, would
cause men to regard him as a fit and proper person to represent a
constituency in Pariiament. Without wishing to take this opportunity
of disclosing my own party prejudices or sympathies, I am in
a mood to say that at his best, and for many years, Sir Edward
Stafford quite fulfilled expectation. He had been in Pariiament
some years before I had a seat. I first saw him on his way to
Auckland, with other members of the Legislature, in 1854, to be
present at the first session held under the Constitution Act.
Men in an impertinent mood dared to speak of him as a man of
many words ; but the skill with which he used his words entitled him
to be spoken of as an expert ; and the questions that he exercised
his mind upon, justify the assertion that he had in him some of the
qualities and qualifications considered essential in a statesman. He
was often applauded by his political opponents ; by those not liking
his views or his policy, for the skilful and workmanlike fashion in which
he placed his measures before Parliament and the country. He had
that art, and on occasions practised it with considerable success. I once
heard one of his ministerial colleagues say of him, that when the House
seemed to them unreasonably impatient to get to work, hungering for
something to feed upon, that they would put him* up to speak, and
suffer him to manipulate and explain the provisions of some
unimportant measure, simply to satisfy the cravings of these political
cormorants. As he was a thorough master of details, and never above doing
Uttle things well, he gained considerable kudos for these performances.
It was said of him, that on such occasions he was not content, like
most men, to give a sketchy outline of the measure introduced, but

236
that he would deliberately lay himself out to draw a complete picture
of the ' political tree that he proposed to plant. First directing
attention to its goodly size and symmetrical proportions, then pointing
out that its roots were both strong and long, well fitted to draw
nourishment from a congenial soil ; that its main branches were well
developed ; that its tenderest shoots were fuU of the beauty of
perfection ; and that its leaves fluttered with gladness at the prospect
of affording protection to the fruit, forthcoming in due season. This
is, of course, only a clumsy attempt on my part in a prosy matter of
fact fashion, to convey an impression as to the thoroughness with
which this master of details as well as of principles dealt with
measures introduced by him. The hardest thing ever said of him by
a political opponent, in allusion to his copious flow of words and over-
elaborateness of diction, was that he had in his youth swallowed an
encyclopaedia, and ran considerable risk of dying of dyspepsia.
Perhaps, after all, the strongest and best proof that he was an
able man, and qualified to lead a party in Parliament, is that he was
at the head of the ablest Ministry, taken as a whole, that New Zealand
has ever seen. This Ministry consisted of Messrs. Stafford,
Richmond, Whitaker, Weld, Tancred, and Sewell.
When the Parliament of New Zealand first settled down into
well-defined and recognised parties, Stafford led the one party, and
Fox the other. In my time even this was often so, and such an
arrangement tended to the furtherance of public business, and to
the enlightenment of the public as weU as of Parliament. I have
witnessed much skirmishing and many a pitched battle behveen these
leaders of political parties.
It was, and still is, the fashion for ladies to attend the debates
in Parliament — some, no doubt, to applaud, others to criticise. It is
a very convenient fashion, I mean, for the members of the House, as
they are able to guess with something like certainty as to whether the
debate to come on is likely to prove interesting or not. Depend upon it
when the ladies' gallery is filled to overflowing, there is something
electrical in the political atmosphere, and that they are there — brave
creatures — to witness an explosion. Not a few of the ladies who by
their presence dissipate the dulness hanging over the ordinary pro
ceedings in Parliament, come provided with knitting needles and worsted
trying to look as if they meant work. Whilst their husbands are engaged
in scarifying one another, these superior beings sit unmoved. What

237
they feel when their husbands are being tripped up and annihilated, the
world never knows — they never show their feelings. In an imperti
nent mood, I once asked Mrs. A. whether, when Mr. B. was politi
cally pummelling Mr. A., she did not feel a wicked inclination to
push her knitting-needles into Mrs. B. ? By the way, it is a very
satisfactory proof that we are w-iser than our fathers, seeing that we
provide comfortable and spacious sitting accommodation for the
gentler sex. That is not done in the Imperial Parliament — in the
House of Commons. There, women are huddled up into a dark
corner ; are not only not heard — they are not seen. They are
suffered to peep through a narrow opening in the cage that confines
them whilst looking at their lords and masters, the rulers of the world.
If the men thus peeped at seem infinitessimally small in the estimation
of the superior sex, who can wonder ?
Sir Edward Stafford, during his tenure of office, had the high
honour, as well as the responsibility of doing battle on behalf of the
colony and the colonists in a memorandum dated 17th April, 1867.
The colony and colonists, the Governor (Sir George Grey), and his re
sponsible advisers, had had heaped upon them "imputations of wanton
cruelty and injustice." It was Sir Edward Stafford's duty, as the head
of the Administration during the period referred to, to make clear
to the Imperial authorities that they had been imposed upon — that
they had unwisely listened to grave charges affecting the honour of the
colonists. Sir Edward Stafford did this in a lengthy memorandum
to the Secretary of State, stating cleariy what had taken place, and
expressing surprise and indignation that the Imperial authorities
should have at once adopted, as well-founded, charges and insinua
tions secretly made, calculated to disparage the colonial forces and
apparentiy intended to injure the honour of the colony. These
charges and imputations forwarded to the Secretary of State were,
by the author of them, studiously concealed from the Governor,
from his Ministers, and from the public. One of the engagements
referred to where these gross cruelties were said to have been per
petrated by the colonial forces was at Omaranui, not many miles
from Napier. In that pa were gathered together a considerable
number of disaff'ected Natives, mostiy Hau-Haus, threatening war
and destruction to Europeans and their Native allies. The settiers
and friendly Natives in the neighbourhood had taken refuge in a pa
about a mile from this organised band of fighting men. These men

238
had been repeatedly addressed by letter by Donald McLean, then
Superintendent of the province of Hawke's Bay and acting as the
representive and agent of the Colonial Government, By him they
were requested to return to their homes, and told further that when
their wishes and intentions were peaceful, to come back and make
them known to him and to the friendly Natives. The reply to the
many attempts made to induce these misguided men to scatter and
to return to their homes was short, simple, and intelligible, contained
in these few words, " Talking is now at an end. — From us all," The
engagement at Omaranui, resulting in a marked success by the com
bined forces of Europeans and friendly Maoris, is fully and ably
described in a despatch by Sir George Whitmore, then Lieut. -colonel
in command of the attacking party.
Donald McLean, in reporting to the Government the result of
this engagement, writes enthusiasticaUy of Colonel Whitmore and the
officers and men under his command during the engagement ; adding
that their services were most cheerfully rendered, and expressing
his conviction that the result of such successes as he then
had the satisfaction of reporting would exercise an influence
throughout the Island that would tend to neutralise the designs
that were being matured by the Hau-Hau fanatics, aiming at the
extirpation of the Europeans and friendly Natives. These men,
suddenly called upon to take up arms in defence of their lives, as
Colonel Whitmore takes pride in pointing out, were not " trained
soldiers, but civilians from the town, who left their shops and work at
a short notice during the night; and countrymen who left their homes
with just enough warning to dress and reach the rendezvous." In
his enthusiasm, whilst speaking of their spirit of pluck and determi
nation, he writes : — " So high a spirit made success certain, and could
only have resulted from the firm determination of the settiers of this
province (Hawke's Bay) to put an end to a state of things repug
nant to the feelings of an Englishman,'' These fanatics had been
repeatedly summoned to disarm and surrender. One of the survivors
taken prisoner during the fight confessed to the Rev, Samuel
Williams that their object was an immediate and sudden attack on
the town of Napier.
That Donald McLean, of all men in the world, should have had
imputed to him the crime of " an unwarranted and merciless attack
on unoffending persons," to those who knew him well as always

239
indulgent and patient towards the Natives, seems too absurd to be
seriously noticed.
In travelling through the North Island, encountering officers and
men serving in the armed constabulary, I have often had to listen to
a free and outspoken criticism of Colonel Whitmore, who planned
and led with such success the combined force, European and Native, at
Omaranui. They spoke also, good-humouredly enough, of what they
called his weaknesses — of his putting on " side,'' as young men now-
a-days say; — in giving orders to men under him. By way of illustra
tion, they told an anecdote very probably manufactured for the
occasion. In one of his campaigns on the East Coast, suddenly
jumping up one morning before it was quite light, he rubbed his eyes
and shouted out, " Call up the Guards !" Men about him, wonder
ing whether he was wide awake, seemed puzzled. " Confound it,"
said he, " I meant the guides ; I can't get that fellow Napoleon out
of my head." But the men who told and probably manufactured
this anecdote for the occasion, were of one mind as to his pluck and
competency to lead men in bush fighting with the Natives. They
said further of him that whilst camping out he seemed always in a
mood to make the best of everything ; that he made no fuss over
his own personal comforts. That at night he would roll himself up
in a blanket, resting his head in the hollow of his saddle, and cheer
fully take in the way of rations what the men under him were sup
plied with. And they invariably wound up by saying " There's no
man in New Zealand that we have had to do with in campaigning
that we would rather be led by and fight under than Colonel
Whitmore.'' The distinction conferred upon him for his successful
service at the head of the Colonial forces, though long delayed in the
bestowal, was well deserved, and I doubt not, gave satisfaction to his
old companions in arms.

CHAPTER XXXI,
Sir William Fox.
Having devoted a few pages to Sir Edward Stafford, it would seem
the most natural thing in the world to briefly notice the past and
present public life of Sir William Fox.
I am not sure whether, in accordance with the good old-
fashioned rule of seniores priores, Sir William Fox ought not to have
had precedence over Sir Edward Stafford. Sir 'William Fox was at
the head of the first organized and strong opposition that made
itself felt in the Parliament of the Colony. He has been engaged
in Parliamentary life from that day to two or three years ago ; has
perhaps been in more ministeries than any other man in ParUament ;
and I think it may be said of him, that of all the men who have had
much to do with public life, is better known by sight than any man
who has occupied so important and responsible a position. This
may be due partly to the fact of his having taken up very heartily
social as well as political questions.
Only a few weeks ago he was to be seen in Christchurch. And
on occasions both seen and heard, and very distinctly too, on what
bids fair to become, already is indeed, the great question of the day
— I mean total abstinence. He seems not to allow himself much
rest. One would have thought, that closely engaged as he has
been in the task of inquiring into and unravelling the intricacies of
Native land titles, and settling questions relating to confiscation on
the West Coast, that some rest, some recreation would have been
deemed necessary even by himself; but the only rest or recreation
that this lover of work seems inclined to allow himself is a change of
work. It has been telegraphed to-day (the 29th of May, 1884) that the
labours of the West Coast Commission are at an end, .and that the
final report of Sir WiUiam Fox, sole Commissioner, is in the hands
of the printer. Although the report itself wiU not be made public
until after the General Assembly meet, we read in the telegraphic
announcement referred to, that the report is understood to consist of
a recapitulation of the w-ork achieved by the Commission, and of

241
v.ariou'i final recommendations. It will be remembered that Sir
William l-'o\ and Sir Dillon Bell were first appointed in i88o as a
Coinmi.s.sion of Inquiry to examine into the grievances of the Natives
on w-hat is known .i.s the confiscated territory on the West Coast of
the North Island. Their in\estigations lasted for seven months, and
consisted partly of examining the aggrieved Natives in the locality
itself, and p.artly of researches among the archives of the Native
office, where the\- had to examine records extending back for the
previous twenty-five ye.ars. In January, 1881, the Governor
appointed the same, Commission to can-y out their recommendations ;
but Sir 1 )illon BeU going home as Agent-General, it devolved upon
Sir William Fox alone to finish up the work. Some idea of the
magnitude and character of the work may be gathered from an
expression of Mr. Sheehan, who said the whole district was sown
three feet thick with broken pledges and broken promises. The
result of the labours of the Commission is that large and valuable
reserves have been made, not only in the interest of those who had
legal or tribal rights, but also in the interest of those who had no
rights beyond those acquired by living on the confiscated territory.
The only remaining step to be taken is for the Governor to issue
Crow-n grants in accordance with the recommendations of the Com
missioner. The settlement of this most difficult question involved a survey
in detail of all the reserves amounting to many hundreds of thousands
of acres. Those who are aw-are of the quaUty of the soil of which
these reserves mainly consist need not to be told that the recipients
are indeed well off". In addition they many of them are entitled to
a share in very large rents which will accrue from the leasing by the
Governor, of the reserves not occupied by the Maoris. All this looks
like a very satisfactory settlement of a very difficult question. The
Colony, the Government, and the Natives are to be congratulated on
the result. If the gentlemen composing this commission had done
nothing else in a long public life in the interest of Europeans and
Natives, they would be entitled to all the honours and emoluments
that they have ever been or are likely to be endowed with.
It is a grand sight indeed to see a man of Sir William Fox's age
and culture devoting himself heart and soul to the amelioration of
the condition of his fellow colonists. Not only proclaiming total
abstinence but practising it. R

242
I am not a total abstainer. I have never been one, and I
don't think I shall ever become one ; but I know not why I should
show any reserve in speaking or writing in admiration of such a man
as Sir William Fo.x, and of the earnestness that possesses him in battUng
with one of the great evils of the age. But notwithstanding the
great and certain good that has resulted from the efforts of such men
in this bewildering world, I have never seen my way to don the robe
or badge of blue-ribbonism. Unquestionably the movement is
becoming a great force in the world, in these days almost deser\'ing
to be spoken of as a political power. My difficulty is and always
has been, to realise that this new religion is anything more than a
weak and powerless machine, designed by man in the interest of man,
to effect what Christianity in its simplest, highest, and purest form
was intended to produce throughout the world. By the Authorof
our religion we have been taught to live a life of moderation and
purity, and have been blessed by the endowment of a spirit calculated
to control us in our wildest moods of wickedness. The professors of
this new religion say truly that it is well for a man's bodily and
mental health to abstain from things hurtful ; but it makes no pretence
to be able to infuse into him a principle of restraint. It casts out, it
may be, an evil spirit ; but it does not arm the man lately possessed
by it with a power of resistance in the hour of temptation and the
day of trial. But Christianity not only professes to do, but does this.
A man must walk through the world with closed eyes who fails to see
that there is such an. influence moving and controlling many men in
it. This religion, above all other religions, was intended to reform
and purify the world ; is calculated to do that work well and
thoroughly, and can point to results ; has done more for humanity
in enlightening men's minds, and purifying their lives than all the
philosophies and free-thought associations combined are likely to
produce. If then Christianity be capable of so much, why not
utilize it ? ^\^hy put it on one side as a thing not fitted for every day
use ? When a man unable to swim is in deep water crying out to
be saved, and sinking out of sight, one does not put out the tip of a
little finger to save him ; one plunges into the stream, and with out
stretched arms makes a great effort to rescue him. ^\'h)¦ should
Christian men be unwUling to confess that the most effective means
of reforming a man — the highest form of humanity — is Christianity ;
that it has power to strengthen a man's will, and to purify his Ufe, as

243
Avell as to save him ; that on its introduction into the world it aimed
at a height of purity and holiness that men had out-grown all
experience or knowledge of Thus feeling, I have never seen my
way to join " total abstinence " societies.
There is of course another way of looking at this matter, and
that is to regard all these attempts at humanizing men as the out
come, the fruit of practical Christianity. Many Christian men thus
speak of the movement. No one with his eyes open dreams of
denying the great good that temperance and total abstinence societies
have done and are doing in the world, in deaUng with men utterly
degraded ; but it is hard to get over the feeling, that all this and
more might be accomplished by able and earnest Christian men
taking their stand on the broad ground of Christianity, instead of
speaking from a platform of man's erecting. The religion of aU
religions insists on the necessity of a life that large-hearted men in
the interest of humanity are of one mind in proclaiming the
desirableness of ; but it does more than that, it strengthens men in
their endeavours to attain to it.
As a speaker in Parliament in opposition, I don't know that
anyone ever came up to Sir WiUiam Fox. His bold slashing attacks
attracted if they did not convince both sides of the House, If he
was not always convincing, he was never conventional. And few
men seemed to think it worth while to go out of their way to " tread
on the tail of his coat.'' In making a set speech even, he never bur
dened himself with a mass of parliamentary records to prove his
position; or in his treatment of a question, imported into it a
flood of unnecessary and uninteresting details.
Thorough, almost fierce, as he was in attack in parliamentary
speaking, that spirit was far from him on his leaving the Chamber,
When he had poUticaUy battered the life out of an opponent within
the walls of Pariiament, he was outside of the House uniformly
courteous ; exhibiting only the graces of a cultivated Englishman.
A reporter in the gaUery of the House of Representatives, more
than twenty years ago, thought fit to write thus of him — " That man
making notes, and crying, ' hear, hear,' in a very decided manner is
Fox. He is Saxon, if you judge by his square figure, his fair hair,
and grey eyes. Yankee by his perpendicular countenance, sharp
aquiline nose, thin compressed lips, and the opinions to which the
latter give utterance. He is one of the most popular speakers with

244
the gallery. Perhaps a little too fond of addressing himself to it.
His forte is the earnestness with which he throws himself into debate
— the right good will with which he pitches into his opponents.
When warmed up he is very fluent, but terse and epigrammatic
withal. And though he speaks very often he never bores the House,"
I find that I have blundered in a foregoing page in speaking of
Bishop Selwyn as a total abstainer. Although " temperate in all
things," he never could make up his mind to the wisdom of total
abstinence in the case of those who never exceeded. I trust that Sir
WUliam Fox will forgive me for thus blundering. To have burdened
him with a bishop on the box seat of his drag when handling the
blue ribbons with such skill was a big blunder.
Sir WiUiam Fox is known of as an author as well as a statesman
and a social reformer. His " Six Colonies of New Zealand " is a
readable book still, although the colonies so-caUed have disappeared.
His later work on " The War in New Zealand " is a full and truthful
statement of the origin and progress of the great war commencing
in 1863, This is indeed but a short reference to one who has contributed
so many pages to the political history of New Zealand ; but as I ara
not diving below the surface of political questions, I must be excused
from saying more — in this connection, as the Americans say.
In the appendix of the journals of the House of Representatives,
1863, is to be found a paper headed "Notes by the Colonial
Secretary during his visit to the Waikato, December, 1861." This
paper is spoken of by Sir G. Grey the Governor, as " a very interest
ing journal kept by Mr. Fox, the head of the present New Zealand
Ministry, during a visit he recentiy made up the Waikato river."'
I think Mr. Fox ceased to be a minister during the Session of 1862,
when Messrs. Domett, Bell, Sewell, and Reader \\'ood took office.
During the Session of 1863 he again took office, having as his
colleagues Messrs. Whitaker, Gillies, and Russell. Mr Fox belonged
to what. I suppose may have been called the peace party during
Governor Browne's rule, and the existence of the Stafford administra
tion. He was of opinion that we had blundered into the ^\^^itara
war, and had sadly muddled matters resulting from it. He was at
least predisposed to peace ; and in his visit to Waikato, interviewing
William Thompson (the king maker), he anxiously endeavoured to
get at the mind and wishes of the king and his advisers. All this

245
is lengthily set forth in the memorandum referred to. But with .all
this desire to be at peace with the Maori King and his adherents, he
lived to become the head of an administration (the Fox-Whitaker
Ministry), that in spite of all efforts to refrain from fighting drifted
into the biggest thing in war that New Zealand had experienced.
The Native question in New Zealand, from our first occupation
of the North Island up to the present day, has occupied more than
half the time and attention of parties in politics. The subject is
important enough for a volume. A very full discussion of the whole
question may be read in the newspapers published during the last
thirty years. Read both sides of the question if you are wise and
have time, and if you are clever you will possibly come to a right
conclusion.

CHAPTER XXXH.
Sir Frederick Weld.
Amongst the earUest colonists that may be said to have done wisely
in steering for New Zealand is Sir Frederick Weld. Wellington can
claim the honour of being the locality in which he first settied him
self He was a settler in the AVairarapa district before the province
of Nelson tempted him to become a squatter in the district of Marl
borough, AU this, however, is of small consequence by the side of
the fact that he soon became utilised in the service of the colony as
a statesman. As a settler in the Wairarapa, he had the reputation of being a
fair-dealing as weU as a plucky man in his daily intercourse with the
Maoris, Like the rest of the earliest settlers in the North Island, he
had often to put up with the capricious ways of the Natives, but his
manly, straight-forward way of treating them soon reconciled them to
his presence amongst them.
He must have been a very young man when he first landed in
the province of Wellington. But the southern sun and the life of a
settler quickly developed in him the qualities that were essential to
success, both in his public as well as in his private undertakings. I
first saw him in 1854, among the men who can claim the honour of
having been in the first Parliament of New Zealand. I think he can
also claim the honour of belonging to the first Ministry in New Zea
land—a Ministry that distinguished itself by insisting on the recog
nition of the principle of " Ministerial responsibility." He belonged
subsequently to the Ministry of which Stafford was the Premier.
Finally, in 1864, on the retirement of the Fox-Whitaker Ministry, he
became the head of an administration, which may be referred to as
connected with a most important period of the Parliamentary history
of the colony. Mr. Weld's first administrative act was the removal
of the seat of government from Auckland to AA'ellington. In the
year 1865 Parliament met at AVellington, and from that ye.ar to the
present time Wellington has been the parliamentary and central seat
of the Government of the colony. During Mr. A\'eld's tenure of
office as Premier, the Governor and his responsible advisers seemed

247
to have had no serious differences of opinion upon questions of policj-
or pr.actice. Some Canterbury man, at this period in the history of
responsible government, had the audacity to write —
" Governor Grey h.is little to say
Since we sent Freddy Weld to mind him."
Mr. Weld's career as a statesman is connected mainly with what
was called the policy of " self-reliance." The carrying out of this
policy involved the removal from the colony of the Imperial troops.
Gallantly as they had behaved — much good service as they had,
performed at a critical time in the history of the colony, breaking
the neck of the Maori rebeUion — it had become impossible, owing to
serious disagreement between the Governor and the general in com
mand of the troops, to carry on to a successful conclusion the opera
tions that were stiU deemed necessary to secure a lasting peace
throughout the North Island. The colony w-as thus almost driven to
the necessity of thenceforth relying exclusively on the colonial forces
for the defence of the colony. The necessity for employing these
forces quickly arose, and was promptly faced by those in authority.
As has been already mentioned in these pages. Sir George Grey
distinguished himself on the West Coast of New Zealand by his
pluck and generalship. The Press newspaper of May ist, 1866, in
review-ing the position of the colony during the year just passed,
writes : — " A few months sufficed to show the result of the poUcy
inaugurated by Mr. Weld. Without the assistance of a single Impe
rial .soldier, and at a comparatively trifling cost, the murderers in the
Bay of Plent)- were chastised, and the Hau-Haus on the East Coast
utterly defeated. The year 1865 will be remarkable, not, we hope,
for being the only one in which the colony acted for itself, but for
being the year in which the colony first threw off the leading strings
of the mother country, and relied upon itself alone in the time of its
greatest difficulties. Mr. Weld retired from office on discovering
that he was not sufficiently supported in the House of Representa
tives. When he resigned office — to the great regret of a considerable
number of his friends and supporters — he had still a majority, but it
was .so smaU and so uncertain — sometimes reduced to one — that he
preferred to leave with others the responsibility of governing the
country. He could have retained office and scraped through the
session had he chosen to submit to only as much — or rather, as Uttie

248
— sujiport as his party (hose to afford him ; but men of a different
stamp were needed to cling to office under such circumstances. After
full notice to his party, he resigned." The writer in the news])aper
referred to, says further : " The year 1865 w-ill ever bear w-itness to
the fact that if the Natives are to be subdued or governed, it must
be b)- a local Government not by England ; and b}- men who believe
that the colony can fulfil its own duties, and not by men who
do not." During the time that Mr. Weld held office, the opposition partv
in Parliament w-as led by Mr. Stafford, his old colleague and chief
These are the instructive sights often recurring in ]jarty government
that somewhat puzzle young members, and are wholly incomprehen
sible to outsiders. The encounters between Weld and .Stafford were
marked by earnestness and ability. Stafford was more than ordinarily
aggressive in his attacks, \Ve]d Iceing quite iirepared to meet him.
^Ve who were numbered among M'eld's supporters, took pleasure in
declaring that Weld had the best of it. The facts were in his favour,
and the outspoken, straightforward style of his defence stirred the
enthusidsm of his supporters and accounted for the discomfiture of
his opponent. Matter-of-fact as most men are, or like to consider themselves,
in their politics, it is none the less true that on occasions they are
deeply stirred by enthusiastic .-ippeals to their sense of honour and
chivalry. Mr. Weld, without being ranked among orators of the first
order, had the gift of strong convictions and the cour.age of them,
and had a very forcible st}-le of gi\ ing utterance to them. None who
heard him at Christchurch in those days, exj^ressing his views on con-
-stitutional questions and w-hat in the w.ay of policy was at that time
becoming in the colony to adopt, w-ould be inclined to (juestion his
right to he spoken of as a powerful and imi)ressi\-e speaker. A few-
years only after the close of his political career in New Zealand, he
was appointed to the Governorship of Tasmania ; after that, to c)ccu])v
a similar position in the Straits Settlements, 'i'hus he has been
Minister, Prime Minister, and Governor. If ever lie should write
his " confessions," w-e may expect to be told whether the role of
Governor suited him as well as that of Prime Minister.

CHAPTER XXXH I.
Sir John H.1II.
In- speaking of men who have been utilized in the service of the
-colony as well as of the province, none can be said to have held a
higher place in public estimation than Sir John Hall. This being so
he is entitied to be classed among the leaders of the people. I
don't know of a man amongst us who is to be depended upon to
s.ay when this lo\er of work first became useful to the world. One
of his schoolfellows once told me, in speaking of his school days,
that as a boy he was quite as remarkable for a close application to
his studies at school, as he has always shown himself when engaged
in parliamentary or other pubUc work; th.at afterwards at the
University he made good use of his time ; and that finally, after a
short experience in a public department in the old country, he was
quite entitled to be .spoken of as qualified for any sort of official
work. And this estimate of his fitness and appetite for work was soon
discovered by his fellow-colonists to be a true one : that it was indeed
almost impossible to put him into a position that he was unfit for.
He quickly developed into a successful settler, engaged in country
pursuits. He was at one time a Resident Magistrate, then Chairman
of the Christchurch City Council, before Mayors were known in the
land, and heavy rates buirdened the backs of burgesses ; then at the
head of a Provincial Executive ; then a leader of an opposition to
the Government ; always a member of the General Assembly ; often
holding office in a Ministry ; then just by way of a change, at the
head of a General Government Opposition; and fi^aUy the Premier
•of New Zealand.
In all of these different and difficult positions he has played the part
•of a strong man, and has earned, and is living in the enjoyment of a
reward and a reputation that none desire to rob him of I have already
in these pages referred to the great AVest Coast road as his master
piece in Provincial public works. A writer in the "Canterbury
Rhymes," in playful mood thus encouraged him in the performance
of that really great undertaking : —

25°
" .Make the road Johnny, my dear Johnny ;
Make the road Johnny, my little man.
Anywhere, anyhow, over the mountains.
Do it as quickly, my boy, as you can.
" No doubt you'll do it, that's if you choose to.
Nobody doubts your powers a bit ;
But do it smartly, my little Johnny,
Or soon I'll be writing your hie jacet.''
A writer in the Press newspaper not long since, in speaking of
Sir John HaU, says, " He never claimed to be a popular orator in t&e
sense in which Sir George Grey was a popular orator ; but he
never failed nevertheless to realize the importance or propriet}-
of taking the people into his confidence on public affairs. He
spoke essentially as ^ colonist to colonists ; and to use his owrs
expression, as one more ambitious of being a useful public servant
than a powerful ruler. Many people underrated the value of his
speeches, for the very reason that they brought politics within the
comprehension of the most ordinary understanding. He 'attracted
no sentimental admiration ; he aroused no effective enthusiasm ; hut
he gained sympathy and respect, and kept people -vvell posted up im
their own affairs, and that was all he laid himself out to do."
Theabove in relation to Sir John Hall was written only a few- weeks;
since : the following was penned, printed, and published twenty-eight
years ago. The writer, a newspaper reporter, detected in him " an
awkward trick (said'by the way to be common to Canterbury members
at that time) of rising on his toes when speaking, as if he was pulling
up his words with a string — probably a habit acquired by straining on
tip-toe to spy out their sheep on the vast plains they inhabit." The
further criticism of him was that he was a " \-er)- neat and earnest
speaker ; not pretending to eloquence, but ahvays to the purpose ;
always clear, and always decided. He has an intense sense of
justice, ahvays ready to champion the oppressed. I have no doubt
that at school he had a perpetual black-eye from fighting the battles
of the small boys against the big ones who bullied them.''
The late Lord John Russell I have more than once heard spoken
of as his great pattern and prototype. The London Punch, in speaking
of the Whig statesman on an occasion when the Queen had sent for
him to advise as to the formation of a new ministr)-, made Het
Majesty to say, " John, I am afraid you are not strong enough foi

251
the place." That at any rate could never have been said of New-
Zealand John at any time during his political career. He was-
always ready when the occasion demanded to lead a forlorn hope ¦;¦
or to pilot his party through the rocks and shoals of the political
ocean ; and with a success which was as harassing to his opponents as-
it was gratifying to his supporters.
The Canterbury Punch, a witness to his many successes in the-
Provincial Council and in Parliament, admitted his great qualifica
tions for public life, and irreverently wrote of him as " the boy of all
work," and the " generally useful man of his party.''
Sydney Smith once said of Lord John Russell, that there was-
nothing in the wide world of work that he did not consider himself
equal to, and showed his readiness to undertake at a moment's notice.
We who are good judges, say of Sir John Hall, that there never has
been a poUtical position that he has not fairly faced, fought in, and
proved himself the master of
I think Canterbury Punch showed wonderful wisdom in providing.
for our friend the motto : " Onme bene — Hall's right."

CHAPTER XXXIV,
Mr. Henry Sewell,
One of the band of the early Canterbury colonists who may be
:alinost spoken of as a pilgrim of the pilgrims, from his long and
intimate connection with the Association at home and with the settle
ment in the colony, was the late Mr, Henry Sewell. He was present
.at the very important meeting of the first promoters of the move
ment, held in London on the 25th April, 1850, when he moved the
following resolution : " That this meeting do constitute itself into a
body to be called the ' Society of Canterbury Colonists,' and that
ithe foUowing rules, &c., be adopted by the Society." This was the
beginning of his long and close connection with the newly-organised
.Society and settjement — a connection which lasted up to the very
end of its operations.
\Mien the Canterbury settlement ceased to exist, the territory
included within its boundaries, as well as a large area outside of those
.limits, was constituted a province under the Constitution Act. Mr.
Sewell's name is to be found on the list of early purchasers of land
in the settiement. To have been included in that first list, and to
have " come over " with Godley the conqueror, and the founder of
the settlement of Canterbury, will be spoken of hundreds of years
hence with as much satisfaction and pride by the descendants of
these old pilgrims as old families in the old country derive from the
consciousness that their ancestors crossed the English Channel with
^Villiam the Conqueror. By the way, speaking of Godley as the
"founder" of Canterbury, I find in one of Gibbon Wakefield's
letters that the notion of designating Mr. Godley as the " founder ''
of Canterbury seems to have emanated from Mr. Adderley. ^\'akefield,
in writing to him about this time, says, " I most entirely agree with
you about a mark of distinction for Godley. It is a bright thought,
and must be worked into a fact ;" adding, " The respect and affec
tion borne to Godley by his friends should be somehow expressed."
The appointment of Mr. Sewell by the committee of management to
the position of deputy-chairman of the Canterbury settlement seemed
Xo have given Gibbon W.akefield the liveliest satisfaction. He speaks

253
of him as a " conscientious and able man of business, of highi
character, w-ith his heart in the thing as an intending colonist." In
writing further of him to the Bishop of Norwich, he says : " I am;
induced to mention — First, that Mr, Sewell is now — that is, in
Lord Lyttelton's absence — more than anybody else, the Canterbury
Association itself; secondly, that his acceptance of the position of
deputy-chairman of the committee of management has provided the-
corporation for the first time with a capable, trusted, and responsible
ofi&cer, which it has all along, since Mr. Godley's departure for Can
terbury, ver)- much needed ; thirdl}-, that I have had the best means -
of estimating Mr. Sewell's character and talents from boyhood till
now, though I only knew him through the colonising- business ; and
fourthly, that I have learned by degrees and experience to believe
that he is highi)- gifted with acuteness, circumspection, judgment,
industr}', elevation of view, and refinement of taste — all governed by
strong conscientiousness and a single-minded, unambitious wish for
the schemes for the success of the work he has undertaken from
love of it. This," said he, " is a very high character, but I really
beUeve not above the truth, and my means of forming an opinion
have been as good as could be." In a letter to Mr. Sewell himself,
he told him that he was " a real treasure," and that his connection
with the Association had saved it " from going to perdition."
Not long after this Mr. Sewell came to Canterbury, where — as-
everj'one w-ho lived in those days knows — he practised his profession,
and took an active part at the same time in the work of legislation in
the General Assembly. Mr. Sewell arrived in the settlement in 1852
or 1853, having come out charged with the responsible duty of wind
ing up the affairs of the Association and transferring its functions-
and property. He -was in the first Parliament called together in 1854,
sitting as the representative of Christchurch ; and in the early days-
was one of the representatives in the Provincial Council of Canter
bury, and when not holding a seat therein and resident in Christ
church, was often seen hovering about the Speaker's chair, if not
prompting a member in close proximity to him, encouraging one who
was addressing the Council by his intelligent and spmyathetic nod.
In the first Ministry formed under the Constitution Act at the
session of 1854, he held office, FitzGerald being Premier. In his
time, he belonged to many Ministries, sometimes representing the
Government in the Legislative Council, at other times to be found in

254
.the House of Representatives. This first Ministry consisted of
Messrs. FitzGerald, Weld, Sewell, and Bartley. One of the items in
their policy or programme was to make the Legislative Council elective,
but as the life of the Ministry was suddenly cut short, that important
•change in the Constitution was not even discussed in the House. I am
writing now of thirty years ago, and of a proposal which Parliament
has not yet been seriously moved to adopt. When the public have
realised that the Legislative Council is non-representative and an
obstacle to progressive legislation, they will no doubt demand that it
be reformed off the face of the Legislature. The men of whom this
administration consisted have, all their political life, been catalogued
as " conservatives." If there be any merit in the proposal to do
away with the principle of nomination in its application to the Legis
lative Council, it is to be awarded to these men of conservative
tendencies. At this first session of Parliament, the large question of " minis
terial responsibility " was very fully discussed, divided upon, and so
far as it rested with the representatives of the people, disposed of
Both sides of the question — if indeed there be two sides to it —
were ably represented. All that was fitting to be said by its advo
cates was eloquently urged ; all that was ingenious, catching, and
plausible, as persistently dwelt upon by the other side The two men
who stood out conspicuously in this debate were Mr. Sewell and Mr.
Gibbon Wakefield — Sewell representing " ministerial responsibUity,"
and Wakefield opposing its adoption under the then circumstances of
the colony. These "giants of old in battle array" were not ill-matched,
imd what made the encounter the more interesting -was that they had
so recently been warm friends. They were certainly now traveUing
different roads. Sewell spoke of the position of the representatives in
the General Assembly as that of hungry guests invited to a banquet, but
that they were waiting for the dishes. It was weU said by another that
the longer the representatives in Parliament were denied the constitu
tional right of ministerial responsibility, the less fit would they be to
exercise the powers conveyed; and further, that the framers of the Act
must have intended that the principle of ministerial responsibility should
be adopted in the working of Parliamentary government. They never
-could have so far stultified themselves as to send out to the colony a
complicated piece of machinery without sending the key to wind it
up and set it in motion, unless they wished the representatives to

255
forge the key for themselves. Representative institutions without
mimisterial responsibility would indeed be the jilay of " Hamlet "
without the part, — degenerating from drama into farce. Upon this
question the FitzGerald Ministry, though supported by a majority in
the House, resigned. They were followed by a Ministry composed
of E. Jerningham AWakefield, Forsaith, TraAers, and Macandrew.
This Ministry lived only twenty-four hours.
In the following session, 1855, Mr. Sewell headed a Ministry.
This was succeeded by a Fox .administration. After that came the
Stafford Ministry, composed of Stafford, Weld, Richmond, ¦\\'hitaker,
Sewell, and Tancred.
The following graphic portrait of Mr. Se\vell in Parliament is
taken from a ^Vellington newspaper, and was wTitten twenty-eight years
ago. '' There's Sewell : you have seen him before with his broad square
head, and his good-natured .practical face. He snuffs like a Scotch
man, and not unfrequently will break off in the middle of a speech,
and on finding the three boxes before him all empty will cross the
House to where sits Dr. Lee to borrow his box for the rest of the
day. He is a pleasant level, persuasive speaker, but apt to be too
diffuse ; and when not warmed up he has a knack of hesitating and
repeating his words. He has a good deal of pugnacity. Can hit
hard and take punishment with good humour. A sure sign of pluck,
and one which is sadly wanting in many others. He is adroit in
debate, and quick in reply. The great defect of his mind seems to
be an incapacity to adopt a decided cause. Ahvays endeavouring
to split the difference, as Fitzherbert said of him ; ' he seems,' said
he, ' to have been born a bankruptcy lawyer whose business is to
induce men to accept los. in the J^.' Serious as such a mental
defect is in discussion, it must be far worse in practice. He can be
dictatorial at times, and was so in his three hours' speech the other
night ; but after he had experience of what was called the ' long
tongue and sharp tooth ' of his opponents, he sang homoeopathically
smaller, and towards its close ' he drew it mild ' indeed. There is
no doubt, however, that Sewell is the best man of his party : superior
to Whitaker even, though the latter seems to have thrown his lasso
over his head, and pulled the wool over his eyes pretty efl"ectively in
some cases, particulariy in the question of Native management."
A good story was told in old days in connection with his snuff-
taking. Dr. Featherston, at that time leader of the Opposition to

Sewell's (rovernment, one night noticed that he had no .snuff-box
within reach. In a mischievous mood he said to his neighbour " now
see if I don't bring Sewell acro.ss the House to take a pinch of snuff
out of my box.'' Bowing and advancing towards him with box in
hand he attracted Sewell's attention, w-ho was gently drawn to the
opposite side of the House. He took a pinch of snuff, and in a fit
of absence of mind sat down by the side of his opponent. And not
onl)' sat down, but rose up to sjjeak before making the disco^-ery that
he had joined the Opposition.
I remember hearing Mr. Sew-ell speak when a candidate for the
representation of Christchurch in the (Jeneral Assembly. He was
opposed at that time by Mr. Michael Brennan Hart. On one side
stood the old parliamentarian, a seasoned debater, full of facts and
finance, loaded to the muzzle with things not generaUy known, and
ready to go off at the slightest touch, smiling with a consciousness of
superiority ; and on the otlier side sat his opponent, who was spoken of
as a fluent talker, but who was utterl}- inexperienced in New Zealand
politics ; had ever)-thing to learn, and seemed on this occasion only
too pleased to allow Mr. Sewell to ha^e first sa)- ; a privilege and
an opportunity that he made the most of His speech was most
comprehensive ; worthy of the occasion, and of himself He dealt
lengthily and effectively with all political questions, great and small :
spoke of past laws, present law-s, and law-s that ought to have been
passed, with such fulness and confidence that his friend on the other
side listened with astonishment, and looked as though he wondered
at the comprehensive list of acquirements that seemed essential in a ,
legislator. Such a political dust was raised bj- this veteran in the
service of the country, that his oi^ponent seemed utterly unable to
penetrate the thick darkness ; and when at last his turn to sjjeak
came, he contented himself with saying, in as few words as possible,
" Electors of Christchurch, we have heard an exhaustive speech by
Mr. Sewell, a man of great exjjerience, and of uncommon abilty.
He has exhibited powers that I have no pretention to. He is well-
informed on the politics of the country, I am not. He is a sjjeaker,
I am not. He has antecedents, I have not ; but if you elect me
your representative in Parliament I will take all opportunities that
come in my wa}- to qualify myself for the position, and be your very
obedient servant." The result w.as th.at Mr. Sewell w.as elected. I
suppose good judges would have spoken of him as more of a debater

257
than an orator. He was, however, on occasions a tower of strength
to a ministry ; was spoken of as a good constitutional lawyer, and had
an appetite for work that few men were blessed with. His many
speeches on many subjects whilst in the General Assembly, both in
the House of Representatives and in the Legislative Council would
seem to prove that he was ambitious of being regarded as knowing
something of everything. Although of an impetuous nature, and
quickly answering to the touch of an opponent, he never could be
accused of personalities, or of attempts to "hit below the belt." It
was, however, rather a mistake to attack him ; for he was not only
fuUy armed, and well able to defend himself and his measures, but it
gave him an opportunity of talking himself into the right when he
seemed to be wrong. Outside of the House he was always the same
— courteous and ever ready to pour forth the treasures of his mind
into the ears of willing listeners.
Those who knew him well speak of his versatility with an active,
ingenious, unstable mind. That in politics he was naturally a
constitution-monger, and was most useful to his political friends
from the suggestiveness of his ever new ideas ; but very dangerous to
them from his changeableness. Without an idea of creating
difficulties or doing his colleagues wrong, he would sometimes bring a
a ministry to the verge of shipwreck soon after he had joined it by
some unexpected vagary. His speeches, like his conversation, were
always interesting and full of originality. But he was often hesitating
and irresolute as to the true course to pursue. A little too much
^iven to speaking out his thoughts before they were matured ; and
too fond of speculating upon possibilities before the House; but
when he was hard pushed to defend himself he was often eloquent.
I once heard a man say of him that he was really at his best when
he was forced back into a corner with his hat knocked over his eyes,
and that he would be the better for fighting a man of his own weight
«very morning before breakfast.
He had very cultivated literary tastes, and was always ready to
talk about his favourite authors. He knew his Horace by heart, and
his paraphrases of odes or epistles of Horace were sometimes very
happy. They were often at the expense of local politicians, who
pointed the moral in place of their old Roman antitypes. Some of
his friends may remember his version of Bretus ille qui procul negotiis
beginning thus —

258
" Happy the man whose habitation
Is up the country at his station."
Those appreciated him most who knew him most intimately.
He was never duU or seemed uninterested in public affairs or current
literature ; and when he became vehement on some political question
on which you thought him v?rong-headed, he could be diverted into
another channel by the criticism of a favourite author.
He was once concerned in a case before the Magistrate's Court,
where some question as to the custody of the Canterbury Association's
seal was raised. When asked outside the Court how the seal case
was going, he replied, Fiat justitia, ruat coelum.
Like many another man he had his weaknesses, which brought
him down to the level of ordinary mortals — an admitted one, being
his inveterate habit of punning ; but if punning be ever becoming he
made it so by his successful attempts in that line. His play upon
words, his readiness of repartee, were really remarkable ; but smart
sayings and happy hits are a little difficult to reproduce on paper, are
apt to be spoilt, to lose their bloom in the handling. That saying,
" First a man gets on ; then he gets onner (honour), and then he gets
onnest (honest)," is to be put down to his credit. In the very early
days when footpaths about Christchurch were fringed with tutu
bushes bearing fruit abundantly, little boys were foolish enough to
pluck -the beautiful berries and eat them. A little feUow whose
name was " Richard " ate of the fruit, grew sick, but recovered.
When the punster heard of it he said, " Ah well, if the little chap had
died, there was an epitaph all ready for him. ' Decus et tutamen —
Dick has ate toot (tutu). Amen.' "

CHAPTER XXXV.
Sir Julius -Vogel.
Of the men who have taken a prominent part in the politics of New
Zealand, no one has perhaps come in for a larger share of criticism
than Sur JuUus 'Vogel. Before settiing in New Zealand he was known
in "Victoria as the proprietor and editor of a newspaper. I think it is
matter of history also that he was connected with the Otago Daily
Times in its palmiest days, which grew with a great growth when the
province was first turned topsy-turvy by the discovery of a rich gold-
field. The discovery of gold in a colony has always proved to be
the beginning of the end of old days and old ways. It quite changed
the character of the population in the old colonies of Australia, It
was the one thing needed to arrest the attention of the old world to
the vast resources of the new. And what it did for the AustraUan
colonies, it quickly effected in Otago, That province, saturated with
the salt of an influx of enterprising men rapidly grew, developing
into the most populous and perhaps the richest of the New Zealand
provinces. The following sketch, or something very like it, of what the city
of Dunedin was in 1869, appeared in an Australian newspaper.
The writer must have dropped on to one of those wet days which a
patriotic Otago man would have spoken of as " really something quite
exceptional, you know." He dared thus to write of the present
weU drained, well paved, and most picturesque looking city of
Dunedin. " Dunedin is celebrated for its mud, its politicians, and
its good beer. Its population is a mixed one, comprising Scotch,
English, Irish, Americans, and Jews, all of whom seem very much at
home in gaiters. Everybody there wears gaiters — men with legs, and
men with no legs ; and very great guys some of them look. Merchants
wear gaiters, and so do their errand boys. Ministers of the Crown
wear gaiters, and so do those who sweep out their offices. Ladies
are suspected of wearing gaiters, of course invisible ; and I am not
sure that it is not sometimes thought necessary to put gaiters on the
horses flopping along through the mud. As to Dunedin mud ! I have
never seen it equalled ; but after aU, that is quite natural, seeing that

26o
Dunedin has everything in perfection that other provinces boast of; it
follows you everywhere ; makes your life a nuisance ; and your breeches
a burden. The ' old identities ' say that it rains only six months in
the year ; but I very much doubt that. Of Otago politicians I might
write volumes, and then leave something unsaid. Like the mud,
they are very tenacious. They are not very patriotic, and what is
better, they don't profess to be They vote themselves jC^i a day
as an honorarium during the session of the Pro-vincial Council, and
have really got to believe that they earn it. They play at responsible
government, and are getting quite at home in the practice of setting
up and knocking over ministries,"
As to the mud of Otago in 1869, we must just believe what we
are told. As to the mud of Christchurch in 1856, read what " C.W,"
in the " Canterbury Rhymes," says —
" At Christchurch, at the dawn of day,
All mudless stood the unloaded dray ;
And in the stockyard near it lay
Eight bullocks, waiting patiently,
" The driver thought it not so nice
That afternoon, when clocks struck twice,
Plunging in swamps and mud-stained ice.
The deepness of the axle-tree,
" In slush and quagmire 'fast as nails,'
The oxen lash their muddy tails ;
But furious still the driver fails,
And double-thongs unceasingly,
" Then plunge the steers to anger driven,
Then snaps the pole wit plunges riven.
And, louder than these noises even
Sharp cracks the whipcord stingingly.
" But heavier yet that whip must drop
On mud-struck oxen, neck and crop,
And longer yet that dray must stop.
Imbedded to its axle-tree,"
Who would have thought that such things could ever have been
written of Christchurch, seeing what it now is ; but in those days no
city or town in New Zealand had a monopoly of mud.
Men possessed of town allotments in the city of Dunedin were
quickly made aware of their great value. The discovery of gold not

26l
only added materially to the value of property ; it at the same time
increased and intensified the political ambition of the residents.
New men also, with new ideas, graduaUy worked themselves into
notice, and amongst these was numbered the present Sir Julius
"Vogel, His first appearance in New Zealand politics was in the
Provincial Council of Otago, as a member of the Executive, He was
far from getting all his own way whilst he filled that office, which
however, he contrived to hold almost uninterruptedly for over four
years. During his provincial career as a minister, he was continually
haunted by no-confidence motions ; but he seems to have succeeded
in keeping a tolerable check on these local law-makers, A writer in
a Melbourne newspaper, who had just returned to Victoria from a
trip round the Middle Island, in writing down his impressions of him,
says, " From what I have seen of him I should judge him to be one
of the ablest men in New Zealand, The expression of his face is gene
rally dull; but when in the heat of debate his eye flashes with all the fire
of a Spaniard. He is not a great orator ; but he is certainly a fluent
speaker. Commencing in a monotone, which might almost be called
a drawl, he warms with his subject after some time, and then woe to the
man who interrupts him. A perfect master of satire, his withering
sarcasm has often made his opponents writhe under it. When
indulging in invective, he is clear, resonant, and loud ; and when
dealing -with facts, about which he does not care to be precise, he'
lowers his voice to the old standard, and the words follow each other
with the speed of electrictity. When in this humour Mr. Vogel is
a very difficult man indeed to report ; but when he gets hold of a
subject he can grapple with he is easy to follow. It is impossible-
to Usten to him and not be convinced that he has in him the stuff of
which statesmen are made''
In the Session of 1863 or 1864, held at Auckland, he first made
his appearance in the House " of Representatives of New Zealand ;
as a rule voting with the provincial party — a recognized representa- '
tive and defender of Otago's provincial interests; but invariably-
taking his own -course in dealing with all questions provincial or
colonial that came before the House. I don't think it ever occurred'
to him to follow anyone. A strong man, he seemed from the first to
prefer striking out a course for himself He was not very favourably •
looked upon at the outset of his pariiamentary career by those
who had been long in the House, and who, perhaps unconsciously,-

262
were getting to regard themselves as having a vested interest in the
chief seats of that august body ; and thus was not very patiently
listened to in his early efforts to secure a hearing. But in spite of
all discouragements he succeeded in establishing a postition. It
was the old story over again of Disraeli in the British House of
Commons — " You refuse to listen to me now, but the day will come
when you wiU be guided by me."
In the Session of 1865, held at WeUington, he bagan to be
looked upon as ambitious of distinguishing himself, and as one bound
before long to take a place in the front rank of politicians, I don't
think that, up to this time, he ever could have been rightly spoken
of as at the head of an organised opposition ; but as a matter of fact,
he was never found supporting a ministry until he himself became a
minister. He had, for one not legally or officiaUy trained, a remark
able aptitude for formulating his views, a steady persistency in urging
them, and a fair success in ParUament in striving to get them adopted,
I think the Uttle inclination that the House showed in the first
instance to regard him as a leading man and to utiUse him, kept him
up to the coUar in his attempts to prove his usefulness. During this
jperiod, before he was saddled with the responsibility and labours of
office, he was as busy a man as could be found among members of
Parliament, He worked very hard outside as well as inside of the
House ; and like certain other prominent men in ParUament thought
the proper time to carry on Parliamentary debates was when wise
men preferred to be in their beds. Although quite a busy man, he
was not above recreating himself in a legitimate way. I have often
seen him thus engaged ; but I have never seen him unoccupied.
When he became a minister he quickly exhibited an aptitude for
the position, and showed to the world that he had practical as well as
theoretical views. But strong as he soon got to be regarded, in
-speaking as the representative of a Government, one could not help
thinking that in opposition he was more brUliant and interesting. I
don't think he ever went out of his way to attack any one when he
was at the head of a Ministry ; but he was ready enough to face an
opponent when chaUenged, and able enough to justify his policy.
I remember on one occasion his speaking in defence of the
general policy of the Ministry, which had been criticised rather freely
up and down the House, and by my friend Cracroft WUson amongst
others. He set to work in a very systematic way to reply. He had

263
many objections to answer ; many mists of error and misconception
to dissipate Going through the list of his opponents, sparing none
big or littie, he at length shot a glance at the group immediately in
front of him, which included Cracroft Wilson, some others and
myself, thus continuing, " And now Mr. Speaker, having as I consider
paid due attention to these big fish swimming about, and causing a
commotion in the parliamentary ocean, I would for a moment glance
at the little fish, the small fry sporting themselves on the surface of
the political pool." Talking of, and at us somewhat after this fashion
in a superbly patronising way, as if he had some hopes of our some
day developing into creatures of size and consequence.
In those days Julius Vogel had not attained to the fulness of his
political stature and power ; had indeed, to fight hard to prove to
ParUament and to the country, that he was as safe a guide in matters
financial and poUtical as some of his friends took pleasure in main
taining that he was. But he had the patience essential to success ;
he bided his time, and got to be recognised as a power, and was
substantially rewarded. I don't know that the community in which
he strove hard and honestly to distinguish himself ever grudged him
his reward, I think the popular feeling, in reviewing his career, was
that he deserved to have succeeded, for that without political friends
in high places he had by his own pluck and unaided ability made for
himself a position and a reputation.
In one of his speeches during a debate of " want of confidence,"
when he belonged to the Fox Ministry, he said that if the honorable
member who was attacking them was an " Enoch Arden " cast on a
desolate island, he would quarrel with the beasts of the field, with the
birds of the air, and even with the fishes of the sea ; he could not
be at peace." Again in speaking of an opponent who, according to
him, saw mountains where there were only mole-hills, ruggedness and
incompleteness, where there was in reality perfection and beauty,
he compared him to Gulliver. " I have often wondered," said he,
" How it was that he could see these qualities in others, until I have
been reminded of ' Gulliver's Travels.'" When GuUiver was travel
Ung in the country of the Lilliputs, those littie beings were able to
see, in extraordinary ruggedness, the imperfections of GuUiver's frame
—imperfections which were not visible to GuUiver's own eyes ; but
when he traveUed in the country bearing an unpronounceable name,
he found that he himself was able to see, in beings deemed amongst

264
their own kind to be most beautiful and free from imperfections^
coarseness, furrows, and imperfections which were not visible in their
own eyes. And I suppose that the honorable gentleman is so smaU
a poUtical creature that he is able to see in members on both sides of
the House imperfections which they themselves cannot see''
It is a matter of history that Sir Julius Vogel, when he ceased to
be Premier, was appointed Agent-General for New Zealand, He
fiUed that office with ability, although at times he seemed to give
occasion to the feeling that he wa-s a little too independent for the
position — was at times more in a mood to represent himself than the
Ministry. It must be a little trying to a man who has once sat in
Caesar's seat to behave becomingly as a subordinate
The policy that he proclaimed, proposed, and inaugurated, was
the biggest thihg in finance that New Zealand had been caUed upon
to„face. The originality and boldness of it attracted and captivated
a large number of people. His opponents spoke of it as speculative
and sketchy. His habit of playing his own game after his own
fashion, was as apparent in his recreations as in the important matter
of carrying out his policy. I have heard men who often played at
whist with him admit that he thoroughly understood the game, and
that he had a marvellous memory ; but that he played too decidedly
to suit his own hand. That is perhaps not the highest conceivable
form of good play ; but it implied self-reliance ; was his way, and he
had a very strong conviction that his -«'ay was the right way. One
thing more may be said in his favour, and that is, that when in
playing at whist luck was against him he never lost his temper;
and that neither in his politics nor in his play could he ever be
accused of nursing his trumps.
When his hitherto large majority had vanished, he is credited
with having said that the days of strong governments in New Zealand
were at an end ; that the House of Representatives had in it too
large a proportion of men fitted, or who thought themselves fit for
office, and who were always ready to join an opposition.

CHAPTER XXXVI,
Christchurch Cathedral,
A FEW pages in speaking of the Christchurch Cathedral, and I will
bring these written " Recollections " to a close.
I remember weU the long and weary years that passed away
before St, Andrew's Cathedral, in the city of Sydney, was finished
and opened for service. Bishop Broughton, the first Bishop in Aus
tralia, exerted himself to the utmost to move moneyed men to contri
bute to the completion of the great and good work, and it was a
matter of regret to his many friends and admirers that its actual
completion was not accomplished during his life, I am now writing
of a time before the day of the great revival in church building had
set in. Much, however, had been done up to this time in the build
ing of good and substantial churches throughout the colony ; but in
those earUest days of the colony of New South Wales, the idea of a
cathedral, the church of the whole diocese, seemed to be fading from
the minds of Churchmen, St, Andrew's Cathedral is a handsome
structure, and was thought all things of when first built. It is now
beginnning to be spoken of as hardly equal to present requirements.
Six pillars in the nave bear the names of Bishop Broughton and his
suffragan bishops, who met in Sydney in conference in 1850. In it is
also to be seen the recumbent figure of Bishop Broughton.
St, Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral, in the same city, is — or
wUl be when completed — a stupendous pile, being nearly 400 feet
in length by an entire width of 130 feet.
In some unpublished notes by an old Christchurch colonist, I
find the Christchurch Cathedral thus spoken of : — " The eastern side
of Cathedral Square is occupied by the Cathedral, the protracted
building of which was a very sore subject with Canterbury folks.
Such little progress was made for nearly two years after the laying of
the foundation-stone, that at one time proposals for the sale of its
valuable site were seriously entertained ; but sentiment and the old
British feeling that would not — could not — admit of defeat, resolutely
put aside the tempting offers. After this resolve, an energetic attempt
was made to proceed with the buUding, but after spasmodic efforts

266
without any great result being attained, the following trifling incident
had a remarkable effect in reviving public interest in the work, which
for a whUe had got to be spoken of as too ambitious an undertaking
for so small a community." And now for the " trifling incident," so-
caUed, which seemed to have led to a final and successful effort to
complete the glorious work. " Early one summer morning a jour
nalist was wending his way home from an office in the neighbourhood
where he had been preparing ' copy,' when his attention was attracted
by what appeared at the time a singular phenomenon. Passing the
Cathedral, he was musing upon its unfinished condition, and whUst
under the influence of a softened abstraction, happening to cast his
eyes upon the Godley statue, he was startled and profoundly moved
by observing big round tears rolling down its bronze cheeks, which
he at once ascribed to the picture of apparent neglect and want of
effort in the unfinished, roofless walls of the Cathedral opposite,''
He then goes on to say that renewed efforts were made to do
away with the reproach and scandal of leaving so important a work
in an unfinished state, and that the further appeal to the pubUc
resulted in a respectable flow of contributions which had dwindled,
he says, " to a mere trickling stream. But the grand climax,'' as he
says, " was achieved when a generous artesian flow welled forth from
a stratum that had not been previously reached," These efforts
ended in the completion of the Cathedral as it now stands.
Mr. Robert Heaton Rhodes, the man to whom Canterbury has
been so largely indebted for a helping hand in building up the tower
of the Cathedral, has within the last few days disappeared firom
amongst us, after a long and painful iUness, This enterprising colo
nist came into the land in 1 848-1 849, before the birth of provinces
— before even the days of a settlement — and has given many proofs
of his enterprise, intelligence, and energy in helping to develop the
resources of the colony. His experience in Australia in all matters
connected with stock and stations qualified him to make the most of
opportunities that lay in his way. The Canterbury plains, then a
wUderness, an unoccupied waste, were at that time open to aU the
squatting world ; but very few were well informed of their extent and
quality. It very likely did not enter into his calculations that during
his life such great results would come out of his enterprising venture ;
but he possessed in all their strength the gifts that ensure success in
life. He was active-minded, practical, persevering, and thrifty, and

267
never, up to within a few weeks of the close of his busy life, outgrew
his engrossing habit of personally looking into all his extensive
business transactions. That he was quite equal to such a strain is
weU known to all who had to do with him in matters of business.
Men who were financially connected with him in large undertakings
speak of him not only as a just man, but as one who, when circum
stances rendered it becoming, could deal considerately — even liberally
— with those in whom he had confidence. Many men who worked
under him in old days, and had been largely indebted to him for a
fair start in their life's business, have long since developed into pros
perous settiers ; and amongst these are to be found not a few who
deeply sympathised with him in his late sufferings, and who faithfully
and stoutiy maintain that he had much to do with pushing on to
prosperity the land of his adoption.
The final touch has yet to be given to the noble building which,
when fully completed, wUl certainly be spoken of in the words of
Pope : " Here stands a structure of noble frame,"
In 1870, Anthony TroUope, then visiting Christchurch, wTites
thus of the Cathedral, and the prospect of its completion : " In a few
years the very idea of Canterbury being specially the province of one
denomination of Christians will be lost to the memory of the colonists
themselves — unless, indeed, it is perpetuated by the huge record of
their faUure which the town of Christchurch contains. In the centre
of it there is a large waste space in which ;^7ooo have been buried
in laying the foundations of a Cathedral ; but there is not a single
stone or a single brick above the level of the ground. The idea of
¦building a Cathedral is now abandoned. Opposite the spot where the
door would have been stands a statue by Woolner of my old school
fellow, the great ornament of the city of Christchurch." The
Saturday Review, in describing it, writes thus : " The head is full of
vivacity and firmness, the face looks keenly forward, the mouth set,
the eye fixed on the horizon with the air of a man who foresees at
once the immediate labours of the settlement and its long future
•career." I remember, on the occasion of Sir George Grey's visit to
Canterbury in 1867, that it was thought well to mow the envious
.grass that was matting itself over and had well-nigh, obliterated the
stone foundations ; and that thereniight^be no mistake made as to
the fact of a foundation, whitewash was used to retrace its outline.

268
The writer of the notes already appropriated speaks enthusiasti
cally and sentimentally of the peal of bells that, on the completion
of the Cathedral, were set up and rang out merrily. He says,
" What a dear old familiar sound they have to all whose childhood
and youth were passed in old England, where every town and village
can boast of a, set of bells and an emulative band of sturdy ringers,"
That is one view of the matter ; now for another. A little more
than a year ago, an anecdote was being told which I trust is true.
If not strictly true, I trust that the Very Rev. the Dean of Christchurch
will see his way to forgiving me for doing my best to circulate it. A
friend from the country meeting the Dean at the Cathedral gate,
rushed at him w-ith outstretched arms, eager to embrace him, and
obviously quite ready to listen to what he was saying. But the din —
the sharp, ringing, clanging sound of the Cathedral beUs, was too much
for him ; he could hear nothing else. The Dean spoke, but he was
not understood ; the man from the country spoke, but he failed in his
attempts to make himself heard. But what they said was of course
overheard and telephoned to all the world, and it amounted to this :
The Dean : " How beautiful are the tones that proceed from
our Cathedral beUs."
The Friend fi-om the country .- " Indeed, Dean, it is very serious ;-
we are sadly in want of fine weather.''
The Dean .- Does it not re-awaken in your heart sensations that
moved us in the old country ?"
The Friend from the country : "I haven't seen him for a con
siderable time ; I rather think he has left the country."
The Dean beginning to suspect that he had not been perfectly
heard or apprehended, said : " I am asking for no one ; I am speak
ing only of the beautiful and thrUUng tones that proceed from our
Cathedral bells.''
The Friend frovi the cou7itry : "Yes, confound those bells! I
haven't heard a word that you have said all this time."
But the outpouring of sentiment proceeding from the wTiter of
the notes, strangely enough, comes from the pen of one who does
not write himself down as belonging to the flock shepherded by the
Bishop of Christchurch. Is it much of a wonder then that the
hearts of Church-people brim over with glad rejoicings at the sight of
this beautiful structure, and love to hear the well-toned bells summon
ing Christians to worship ?

269
Not all members of the Church of England in Canterbury were
at the outset of one mind as to the importance or necessity of a
church on the scale of the Cathedral, or fully sympathised with those
who made sacrifices in eariy days to contribute a stone towards its
erection. I was among those who, living in a remote part of the
province, thought that their first duty was to see to the building of
churches at their own doors, before contributing to the building of a
cathedral church in the metropolis of the province. We felt that it
was somewhat of a reproach to the Church of England even to wish
to buUd a cathedral before the necessary work of buUding and
endowing churches throughout the province was done with. It is
well that aU Church members were not of one mind at that time — or
it would perhaps be more correct to say that, doing the work that we
attached importance to, they at the same time had it in their hearts
and found means to help to build up the walls that now beautify our
city. In holding this view, I erred in pretty good company, for I
find the Press newspaper at that time WTiting thus : " In our opinion
such a work is, in the present state of the colony, pure folly. Fifty
years hence, ^10,000 will be as easily raised as ^1000 now.
Nothing that we could possibly build now would satisfy our posterity
a few years hence.''
I have lately heard a whisper that there is something like the
prospect of the possibility of a fresh start being made in the direction
of the completion of the Cathedral, by the addition of the transepts
and chancel. That such a work may be undertaken and completed
during the episcopate of Bishop Harper is the hope of a large
number of Church people.
Of the Bishop of Christchurch, who has certainly got to be
regarded by his numerous flock, not as a " lord over God's heritage,
but as an ensample to the flock," whose labours never seem to slacken;
" whose praise is in all the churches," and whose genial ways shed
light and happiness upon the lives of so many of the community, I
may, in bringing these -written " Recollections " toa close, be allowed
to write a few Unes.
The difficulties encountered by the promoters of the Canterbury
settlement in their first attempts to establish and endow a bishopric,
are matters of history to old Canterbury colonists. Finally in 1857,
aU difficulties — constitutional, political, and financial — being removed,
Bishop Harper was nominated, consecrated, and instituted to the

270
important office. It was most important that in the selection of the
first bishop for Canterbury, the necessity of appointing a man of
colonising and liberal instincts as well as of sound church principles,
should not be lost sight of; for the province of Canterbury was
growing with a rapid growth, and was destined to be the home of
settlers professing to belong to every denomination of Christians,
The Church News, in 1879, twenty-two years after his first appearance
in Canterbury, spoke truthfully as well as proudly of him when they
said that " he had the hearty sympathy of his flock, and the un
feigned respect of those not included therein,"
In addition to the ordinary duties of a bishop, there was work
to bS done in organising and nursing into a vigorous growth Christ's
College, already referred to. Without wishing to convey the impres
sion (which, indeed, would be a very erroneous one) that only the
Bishop of Christchurch anxiously strove to make the College a
success, que may say in speaking of his share in the undertaking,
that the desire to see it established, utilised, and appreciated, was
ever present to his mind. He has witnessed during these twenty-
seven years the passing through the educational mill of two genera
tions. Three at least of his sons passed their early life at this
CoUege His grandsons, all born in the colony, are many of them
to be seen at the same school, some of them having already been
sent to England to complete their education at Oxford or Cambridge.
A very interesting incident may be recorded here, showing to
what extent the College boys appreciated the Bishop's personal super
vision and daily attendance at the early service of prayers held in
the College Chapel, This had been his habit for a very long time.
The boys had got to regard the Bishop as an essential part of the
gathering, realising that he was their shepherd, and that they were
his home flock. When the Cathedral was finished and opened for
service, the Bishop was to be seen there daUy at early prayers — no
longer appearing regularly at the early College chapel services. The boys
soon noticed his absence, and were not slow in making kno-wn their
earnest desire that he should come back to his young flock, and leave
others to attend service in the great church in Cathedral square.
His being able to gratify their wish (which he at once did) must have
been one of the happiest moments in his happy life.
Few taking an interest in the cause of higher education in the
colony need to be reminded that the Bishop of Christchurch has done

271
quite his share of work in connection with the Canterbury CoUege,
and that he has always been rightly regarded by the governing body
as a useful and liberal-minded member.
AVhilst representing and governing the Church of England in
Canterbury, he has never forgotten, and has never aUowed others to
forget that he is a colonist and an Englishman, and therefore as much
interested as laymen in the fate and fortunes of his countrymen through
out the vast world ruled by England, Turn up the records of 1858,.
and you will see that he took a prominent part in the proceedings at a
meeting caUed to consider the proper steps to be taken to express
sympathy with and to afford reUef to the sufferers by the Indian
Mutiny. And turn over a few more pages of Provincial history untU
you come to the year i860, and you will see that he also attended a
• meeting caUed to consider what was best to be done to provide for the
reUef and maintenance of those who were at that time suffering from
the consequences of wounds, the loss of property, or other troubles
foUowing the disturbances in the North Island, There were many
settlers, old and young, suffering age on the one hand, and helpless-
infancy on the other, who during the Taranaki troubles were well-
nigh ruined,
Mr, OUivier, at that time Provincial Secretary, brought forward a
motion in the Provincial Council to set apart 2000 acres of land, to
be applied in some form in the interest of the sufferers ; but
there were said to be difficulties in the way which led to his with
drawing the motion. But what red-tapism was strong enough to strangle
in the Provincial Council, was readily and successfully taken up
in another form by the public — hence the meeting referred to. At
this meeting the Bishop of Christchurch, the Rev. Mr. Fraser
(Presbyterian), and the Rev. J, Buller (Wesleyan), spoke. Their
eloquent appeals were answered by substantial contributions. The
Rev. Mr, BuUer said, " I have the privUege of belonging to the
somewhat despised class of missionaries ; but I am not the less an
Englishman because I am a missionary. In my intercourse with the
Maoris, during a long experience, I have never allowed an insult to
pass unreproved. And so well-disposed are a large section of the
Maoris to ourselves that I fully expect to see contributions from them
towards our ruined countrymen." And in thus speaking, he spoke
with the prescience of a prophet, for a few days after the meeting he
was addressed by a considerable number of Canterbury Maoris who-

272
seemed somewhat aggrieved at not having received notice of the
meeting called to express sympathy with the unfortunate. They,
however, sent a contribution accompanied by the words — " For our
European relatives and the poor widows of Taranaki."
Those who know the Bishop of Christchurch intimately, and
have long enjoyed the' privUege of his friendship will tell you that
his feelings towards his friends are not grown cold ; and that neither
his head nor his heart has yet relaxed its firm hold of the great truths
that he has proclaimed and lived under the influence of during his
long and useful life.

Whitcombe and Tombs (Limited), Printers, Cashel Street, Christchurch,

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