OYAGE OF THE T YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY YOYAGE OF THE NYANZA YOYAGE OF THEJSIYANZA E.N.Y.C. BEING THE RECORD OF A THREE YEARS' CRUISE IN A SCHOONER YACHT IN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC, AND HER SUBSEQUENT SHIPWRECK J. GUMMING DEWAR LATE CAPTAIN KING'S DRAGOON GUARDS AND llTH PKINCE ALBERT'S HUSSARS E 31 401 2 Wiitli a iWap anU Illuatrattons WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDOCCXCII PEEEACE. The following pages are in the main nothing more than a plain unvarnished account of a voyage under taken by myself in my yacht, the Nyanza ; and my chief excuse for making them public is that therein will be found the description of an eyewitness of several of the more remote and unfamiliar island groups in the great Pacific Ocean. Indeed, I be lieve that I may safely assert that comparatively few of the islands which I visited have ever been approached by a yacht. But for the unfortunate loss of the vessel, I had hoped to have made an extensive cruise round the coasts of New Britain, New Ireland, and New Guinea, which would have added very materially to the inter est of the voyage ; " mais I'homme propose, Dieu dispose," The majority of the illustrations are done from VI . PREFACE. photographs taken on the spot ; the portrait of the yacht is from a painting by P. Mitchell, Esq., of Cowes, whilst the spirited drawing of the scene of the wreck is by Algernon Yockney, Esq., Pleet Paymaster, R.N., who, from a most indifferent photograph, and from my description, has succeeded in producing a most natural and artistic representa tion of the scene on the morning of July 30th. I take this opportunity of expressing my deep gratitude for the great kindness and hospitality that have been everywhere extended to us. Amongst those to whom I feel specially indebted are his Excellency Thomas Kerr, Esq., C.M.G., late Governor of the Falkland Islands ; William Harvey, Esq. of Monte Video ; J. H. Longford, Esq., H.B.M.'s Consul at Kobe; Colonel Enrique Solano, late Governor of the Marianas Islands ; Senhor Luis Cardarso, Governor of the Eastern Carolines ; and last but not least, the officers of the British, United States, and Spanish Navies, from whom I have at all times received the greatest kindness and assistance, and to whom I now beg to tender my most grateful thanks. J. GUMMING DEWAE. Plymouth, November 1892. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE The start— Azores — Ponta Delgada — Furnas— St Michael's, . I CHAPTER II. Santa Maria — Canary Islands — Palma — St Vincent — Puerto Grande — San Antonio — Crossing the Line — Fernando Noron- ha — An interesting convict settlement, . . .6 CHAPTER III. Trinidad — Ineffectual attempts at landing — Rio de Janeiro — H.M.S. Ruby— Tijuea— Corcovada, . . .14 CHAPTER IV. Squally weather — Monte Video — Uruguay — San Sos6 — A Swiss colony — The bull-ring and saladeros of Monte Video, . 22 CHAPTER V. Contrary winds — Slow passage — Nuevo Gulf, Patagonia — A haul of fish — An indifferent day's sport — Port Madryn — Com mencement of troubles with the sailors — Trelew — A Welsh colony — An extravagant and badly managed railway — A shoal of porpoises — Whales — Fine weather, . . .30 CHAPTER VI. The Falkland Islands — Stanley — An unpleasant incident — En forced delay — An improving colony and an excellent Gover- VlU CONTENTS. nor — H.M.S. Swallow — Wild-fowl and game — Seals — A day's shooting — Submarine mining operations, . . .41 CHAPTER VII. An excurfsion among the Falkland Island,? — Lively Island— Good sport— A couple of accidents — Speedwell Island — A penguin- rookery — "Shags" — George Island — Pig-shooting — A native menu — A sea -lion — Port Darwin — Christmas Day — Another unpleasant incident — New- Year's Eve, . . .50 CHAPTER VIH. New- Year's Day — Another excursion — Fox Bay — Great Island — Ruggles Island — Exciting sport — A nasty accident — A grand trophy — H.M.S. Flamingo — The new skipper — Farewell to the Falkland Islands — At sea once more — The Straits of Magellan — Gregory Bay, . . . . .60 CHAPTER IX. Sandy Point — A British naval cemetery — A severe storm — San Nicholas Bay — A wreck — Cape Froward — Fortesoue Bay — Slow progress — Borga Bay — Playa Parda Cove — Port Angosto — Bad weather — Port Tamar, . ... 70 CHAPTER X. Continued foul weather — Sholl Bay — A dangerous adventure — The yacht aground — An unsatisfactory crew — Burgoyne Bay — Otters— Magnificent scenery — Isthmus Bay — Piazzi Island — Natives in canoe — Commissariat difficulties — Puerto Bueno — Guia Narrows — Molyneux Sound, . . . .81 CHAPTER XI. Taken in tow — Chasm Reach — Beautiful scenery — Exorbitant charges — A British steamer — Attempt at extortion — An Italian man-of-war — Connor Cove — More delays — Waterfall Bay — Island Harbour — Hale Cove — In the open sea once more — The Pacific Ocean — A dead whale — Heavy seas — Ex periments with oil — Cumberland Bay — Juan Fernandez, CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER XII. Juan Fernandez — Abundant supply of fish — Wild-goat) shooting — Alexander Selkirk — On our voyage again — Out of our reckoning — Mollendo — Arrangements for a trip into the interior of Peru, ...... 102 CHAPTER XIII. The railway from Mollendo to Arequipa — Wonderful engineering — Arequipa — Puno — Lake Titicaca — Inca remains — Bolivia — La Paz — Obrases, . . . . . .111 CHAPTER XIV. A curious cemetery — Return journey to Mollendo — An English engine-driver — Resumption of voyage — Callao — Arrangements for repairing yacht — Lima — U.S.S. Trenton — A bull-fight — Considerable damage to the yacht, .... 124 CHAPTER XV. Excursions in Peru — Chicla — A novel mode of travelling — Hotel quarters at Lima — Cock-fighting — Lotteries — A good bargain — San Lorenzo — A curious religious custom — Progress of work on repair of yacht, ..... 133 CHAPTER XVI. A dance — Another bull-fight — A boat-race — The Cathedral — The National Library — Completion of repairs to yacht — Difficul ties with the ship-chandlers — Ancon — Digging for "huacos'' — An interesting discovery, ..... 144 CHAPTER XVII. We leave Peru — Completion of our first year's voyage — Fine sunsets — Variable weather at sea — Easter Island — The crater of Otuiti — Stone images — Anakena Cove — A miserable night, and a primitive breakfast — A village greeting — History and condition of Easter Island — Terano Kau— Hanga-roa — Pur chase of provisions — Departure from Easter Island, . . 153 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. Lovely weather — Loss of fowls and log-fans — Fatou-hiva, in the Marquesas Islands— A French settlement — Luxuriant vegeta tion , — History of the islands — Hiva-oa — The Casco — Mr Robert Louis Stevenson — The French Government at Hiva- oa — An extravagant dish — Nuka-hiva — A beautiful bay^ — A remarkable Englishman — Dearth of curios — Renewed trouble on board the yacht — Ahi atoll — Rangiroa atoll — Point Venus —Tahiti, ... ... 167 CHAPTER XIX. Papeete — A disappointing town, but a splendid harbour — The mountains of Morea — A gay and amusing spectacle — I dismiss my servant — A modest request — A wonderful coral-reef — The Archipelago of Tahiti, or Society Islands — I engage a French steward — Excursion through the island — Hitiaa — A native lev^e — Mataiea — A paradise of indolence — The plantation of Atimavao — More trouble on board — Discharge of the sailing- master and cook — Re-engagement of the former, . .178 CHAPTER XX. Mail communication between Tahiti and San Francisco — Vexa tions and delays — The Catholic Bishop of Tahiti — Death of the king's brother — Father Collette — Farewell to Tahiti — A good day's run — The Samoan group of islands — Pagopago — Father Forestier — A war-canoe — The French Catholic Mission — An interesting visit — Native fishing — Curio-hunting — Apia —Father Rem^— The civil war in Samoa — H.M.S. Calliope — A tropical rain — High-handed action of Germans in Samoa — Departure from Apia, ...... 191 CHAPTER XXI. A rapid passage to Tongatabu— Eoa Island— Niukalofa— H.M.S. Egeria— The Friendly Islands— Mua—" The Emerald Isle of the Pacific"— Tugi — A native drink- Kaluga — An enormous cave— A wonderful collection of curiosities— Political affairs in Tonga— A strong gale— We leave Tonga— Bound for Fiji— The 180° meridian— A succession of islands— Viti Levu- We anchor in Suva harbour, ..... 205 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XXII. History of the Fiji Islands — Continuous rain — The labour ques tion in Fiji — Agricultural prosperity — A narrow escape from cannibals — Fijian curiosities — We leave for New Caledonia — Walpole Island — Noumea — A naturalist's museum — An other disagreeable experience on board — Visit to a local in dustrial exhibition — The convict band — A remarkable band master, . ...... 214 CHAPTER XXIII. History of New Caledonia — Interesting particulars concerning the convicts and Uhe're's — Excursion into the interior of the island — The convent of the Immaculate Conception — The mission station of St Louis — Discharge of James Millar, A.B. — Convict establishment on lie Nou — A discourteous gover nor — Condemned criminals — Exorbitant pilotage — We leave New Caledonia — Loyalty Islands — The New Hebrides — Erromango — A quaintly interesting service on Sunday — Mission life in the New Hebrides, .... 223 CHAPTER XXIV. Sandwich, or Efate Island — A fine harbour — New Hebrides coffee — Protection Island — Scarcity of genuine curios— Malli- collo Island — A native village — A primitive mode of striking fire — Remains of phallic worship — The ship cook's scare — Espiritu Santo Island — Tongoa — Curious arrows — A strange custom — Bat-shooting — Out at sea again — A strong gale — The Banks Islands — Port Patteson — A terrific storm — The price of apig, .... . . 234 CHAPTER XXV. Santa Cruz — A dead calm — Canoes, costumes, and customs of the natives — Volcano Island — A curious experience — Carlisle Bay — Scene of murder of Commodore Goodenough — His monu ment — Picturesque scenery — A relic of the stone age — Flying- foxes — Evil reputation of the natives — Departure from Santa Cruz — Violent squalls — Apamama Lsland — Fears of typhoon — We change our course for Honolulu — A miserable day — Con tinued bad weather — Christmas Day on the Pacific — Arrival at Honolulu— Old friends— End of year 1888, . . .245 XU CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVI. The Sandwich Islands — Civilisation at Honolulu — New- Year's Day — A sudden hurricane — Waikiki — A dramatic entertain ment — Trip on board the Kinau — My fellow-passengers — ^An amusing regulation — Mahukona — Kaiwaiihae — Hilo — A pro fitable sugar-mill — An excursion under adverse circumstances — Volcano House — The great crater of Kilauea — Disgraceful practices — A marvellous spectacle — Return to Honolulu, . 256 CHAPTER XXVII. A royal visitor— Anglican Cathedral — The Bishop of Honolulu — U.S.S. Dolphin — An audience of the King of Hawaii — The royal palace— The Government Museum — The prison — The Queen's Hospital — The Lunalilo Home — A boat-race and a paper-chase — My new cook — The Kamehameha schools — A naval dramatic entertainment — An evening party on board the Nyanza— The royal Mausoleum— The Pali—" Patience " at the Royal Opera-house — Settling up — Departure from the harbour— My drunken' skipper — Enforced return to port— A naval court — Symptons of mutiny on board — Dismissal of sailing-master and engagement of Captain Holland — Final departure from Honolulu, ..... 267 CHAPTER XXVIII. At sea— A splendid run— San Francisco— The American inter viewer—A Californian restaurant — The New Bush Street theatre— The Occidental Hotel— Articles on our voyage in the newspapers— The British Consul— A troublesome custom house officer — The Presidio — H.M.S. Icarus— A chapter of accidents— I lose my new sailing-master and engage another —Sparring at the California Athletic Club— I make a con siderable change in my ship's crew, . . . _ 282 CHAPTER XXIX. China Town— A "joss-house "—Opium-dens— A Chinese theatre —Hang Fer Low Restaurant— More changes in my crew— An excursion round the bay— Sausalito— The rival yacht-clubs— The Nyanza takes up her position at Sausalito— Repairs on board— San Quentin— The Government prison— A hard case —Cruising in the bay— Tiburon— Angel Island— " A lang CONTENTS. Xni grace and nae meat " — Preparations for a trip up the Sacra mento river, ....... 291 CHAPTER XXX. A trip on the Sacramento — Benicia — We run aground — Short of coal — Black Diamond village — A primitive hotel — Salmon canneries — Rio Vista — Drawbacks and hindrances — A river steamer — Monotonous scenery — A disagreeable expedition- Sacramento — The Capitol and race - course — Return to Sausalito by train — Fresh troubles on board the yacht — Democratic institutions — Hasty departure from San Francisco — A narrow escape for the skipper — A stormy night — Arrival at Vancouver Island, ...... 299 CHAPTER XXXI. Vancouver Island — Victoria — Esquimalt — Pleasant dealings with the custom-house officials — H.M.S. Swiftsure and Icarus — Sport on Vancouver Island — Easter at Victoria — The Royal Jubilee Hospital — A cricket-match — We leave for Japan — A severe storm — Loss of steam-launch — Damage to the yacht — Our water-supply runs short — We alter our course and make for the Sandwich Islands — Lahaina — Another refractory sea man — The Lahainaluna seminary — Our voyage to the La- drone Islands — Port San Luis dApra, . . . 310 CHAPTER XXXII. The Ladrones, or Mariani Islands — Punto Piti — Agana — The Spanish colony — Fort Santa Cruz — A cock-fight — A dance — Apra — Dinner - party on the yacht — Wild - deer hunting — Generous presents — Mail-day — Sail for the Bonin Islands — Completion of our second year's voyage — A huge shark — The Coffin Islands — The Bonin Islands — A motley colony — Peel Island — Port Lloyd — My first experience of Japanese life — A Swedish naturalist, ..... 319 CHAPTER XXXIII. A Japanese governor — A curious cave — Bound for Japan — Siwo Point — The Kii Channel — Isumi Straits — Kobe — A ride in a jinriksha— A curio-shop — The European quarter — Hiogo — A Japanese temple — Extortionate prices — A fair in Hiogo — Arrima — Hot baths — Basket'- work — A kango — Kioto_ — A xiv CONTENTS. series of interesting temples — A Japanese theatre — An acrobatic .performance — Otsu — Lake Biwa -r Ishiyama — A celebrated temple— Osaka — A tempest, . . .331 CHAPTER XXXIV. Repairs of the yacht — Progress of Catholicism in Japan — A swindling curiosity-dealer — Monsieur Bouchard — Curio-hunt ing— The Omaha and Monsoon— An expedition up country— Hikone — An ancient daimio's castle — Gifu — Kano — Ununia — Effects of a heavy gale — Ota— The Kisogawa — Mitake— A Japanese tea-house — Wild scenery — A series of mishaps — Nakatsugawa— An unsatisfactory inn— A wet day— Magome — Tsumago — Refractory natives — Suwara — Silk - culture — Agematsu, .....¦¦ 342 CHAPTER XXXV. Continuation of trip in the Japanese interior — Fukushima — Miya-no-koshi — Yagohara — Fresh troubles— The Torii Pass — Mitoyama — Lake Suwa — Shimo-no-suwa — An appeal to the police — The Maruya Inn — Toyobashi — Another accident — The Wada Pass — Tanaka— rRomantio scenery — To Mayebashi by train — Ogi — Omama — An amusing scene — The river Waterasegawa — Hanawa — An obstinate coolie — Lovely scenery — Sori — Ashiwo — Nikko — A city of temples, . . . 354 CHAPTER XXXVI. The Etas^A village of leather-dressers — Utsonomiya — A Shinto temple — By train to Sendai — Yoshioka — Drunken natives — Sambongi — Furukawa — Kannari — A remarkable curiosity — Mayezawa — Kane-ga-saki — The volcano of Gan-jiu-san — Moriaka — Kotsunagi — Kinda-ichi — An unnecessary detour — Go-no-he — Wild flowers — Kominato — Awomori — Embark on steamer for Hakodadi, . .... 364 CHAPTER XXXVIL Hakodadi — The public gardens — The water-works — The " Stone of Green Blood" — The Ainus — Their religion — Nanaye — A Government stud-farm — Lakes Junsai Niima and Onuma — Mori — A curious temple — Mororan — The Ainu country — Horobets — An Ainu chief and his treasures — A sacred bear — I purchase a pup — Tomakomai — My guide's unfortunate CONTENTS. XV experiences — Eudo — A wet day — Piritori — The Saru river — Penri, an Ainu chief-;- A miscellaneous collection of Ainu curiosities — The native form of salutation — A bad road — Sapporo — A night-pest — Otaru — A modern Japanese steamer — Oginohania — Arrive at Yokohama, . . . 376 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Yokohama — A disappointing town — The United Club — Tokio — The Temple of Shiba — The Atago-yama and Asakusa temples — A Japanese chrysanthemum show — Deakins' Fine Art Gallery — The Kobe Maru — Return to Kobe — Progress of repairs to yacht — Expenses of my Japanese trip — Visit Nagasaki in H.M.S. Iraperieuse — A landlocked harbour — Return to Kobe on the Takachiho - Maru — Shimonoseki — Departure for England of the last remaining men who had started with me — I return to England on the Parthia — The year's record of the yaclit's log — Vancouver — The Canadian Pacific Railway — Montreal — England — Return to Japan by Messageries steamer Saghalien — Resumption of voyage of Nyanza — Kamschatka — Petropaulovski, . . . 393 CHAPTER XXXIX. The peninsula of Kamschatka — The fur -trade — An undesii'able place of residence — The Queen's birthday — A late winter — A bear-hunting expedition. — Tarenskei harbour — Kluchi — A ride in a dog-sleigh — Bear-hunting under difficulties — A trial of patience and temper — Strange behaviour of my guide — Betohevinskaya Bay -^ A narrow escape of grounding — A week wasted — Admiral Price's grave — Successful fishing — Southward bound, ...... 404 CHAPTER XL. A varied run of three weeks — The Marshall Islands — Legiep — An obliging skipper — The German colony — Native religious belief — Jaluit — The German Commissioner — Difficulty in obtaining supplies — My sailing-master's unreasonable request — Another disagreeable incident — Kusaie Island — An unin telligent trader — The Caroline Islands — A Protestant mis.sion- ary stronghold — The native king — A self-righteous missionary — Interesting ruins — A fruitful island — The sailing-master's strange errors in navigation — We sight the island of Ponapi, . 413 XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLI. A terrible disaster — The yacht ashore — An awful night of anxiety and suspense — The Nyanza doomed — Operations on the wreck — Santiago de la Ascencion — Disturbed condition of the island — I witness actual warfare — Suicide of a Spanish colonel — End of the outbreak, ....... 423 CHAPTER XLII. The end of the Nyanza — Loss of my collection of curiosities — Dishonesty and arrest of Joaquim — Recovery of many stolen articles — Joaquim's sentence — Sale by auction — Disappointing result — Conduct of the officers and crew — Court of inquiry at Hong Kong — Verdict — Conclusion, .... 431 APPENDIX I. List of Ainu divinities in order of precedence, . . . 439 An Ainu legend of a famine, ..... 440 Another legend of a famine, . . . 442 APPENDIX II. Description of the Nyanza, ...... 443 APPENDIX III. Distances direct, and duration of passages, . . . 443 Summary of voyage, ...... 444 Three best runs, ....... 444 APPENDIX IV. List of original crew on leaving England, . . . 444 List of crew at date of shipwreck, ..... 445 List of officers and men temporarily on board, . . . 445 APPENDIX V. Report of Court of Inquiry, .... 447 APPENDIX VI. Table of daily positions, ...... 456 Index, 462 ILLUSTEATIONS. AUTOGRAVURES. THE NTAXZA UNDER SAIL, . . Frontispiece WRECK OP THE NYANZA, . . . To foce page 4Zl FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. IN THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN, . 67 VIEW ON OROYA RAILWAY, PERU, . 115 BRIDGE ON OROYA RAILWAY, PERU, . 134 NIUKALOFA, TONGATABU, . . 206 GOVERNMENT HOUSE, SUVA, FIJI, . 216 DRUM GODS AT MALLICOLLO, NEW HEBfllDES, 238 chief's house, TONGOA ISLAND, NEW HEBRIDES, 240 lOLANI PALACE, HONOLULU, H.I., . . 257 CLIFF HOUSE AND SEA-LION BOCKS, SAN FRANCISCO, 284 THE CAPITOL, SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA, . 303 INDIAN WOMEN, QUOTBINO SOUND, BRITISH COLUMBIA, 310 VILLAGE OF ISHIYAMA, NEAR OTSU, JAPAN, . 340 TEMPLE GROUNDS, NIKKO, JAPAN, . 362 GARDEN AT TOKIO, JAPAN, . 395 MAP SHOWING THE ROUTE OF THE NYANZA, . at end xviii ILLUSTRATIONS. ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. PAGE PRIVATE GARDENS, ST MICHABL'S, .... 3 GRAVES OF OFFICERS AND CREW, H.M.S. DOTTEREL, SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN, .... 72 VIEW IN Smyth's channel (a), . ¦ 81 VIEW IN Smyth's channel (b), ..... 85 ENGLISH NARROWS, SMYTH'S CHANNEL, . . . 94 INDIAN BALSAS, LAKE TITICACA, PERU, . . . .117 ANCIENT WOODEN FIGURES, ETC., FROM EASTER ISLAND, . 165 TATTOOED LEG, MARQUESAS, .... 171 VIEW IN TAHITI, ..... .184 STONE PESTLES FOR CRUSHING BREAD-FRUIT, FROM TAHITI, . 185 NATIVE GIRL — SAMOA, . . . 195 KAVA-BOWL, ANCIENT WAR-CLUB, ETC., FROM SAMOA, . . 200 PRISONERS WAITING EXECUTION IN THE PENAL ESTABLISH MENT, ILB NOU, ...... 228 MISSION STATION, DILLON BAY, ERROMANGO ISLAND, . 231 NATIVE HUT, MALLICOLLO, NEW HEBRIDES, . . 237 NATIVES OF AOBA ISLAND, NEW HEBRIDES, . . 241 LOOM WITH MAT IN PROCESS OF MANUFACTURE, ETC., FROM SANTA CRUZ, . ..... 247 WEAPONS, ETC., PROM NEW HEBRIDES AND CAROLINE ISLANDS, 250 ROYAL MAUSOLEUM, HONOLULU, .... ESQUIMALT HARBOUR, BRITISH COLUMBIA, VALLEY OP THE KISOGAWA, JAPAN, AINU OFFERING TO THE GODS, . AINU WOMEN WEAVING (JAPAN), .... PIRITORI, YEZO, JAPAN, . . AINU WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS, AINU, YEZO, JAPAN, .... AINU'S DRESS — BACK VIEW, AINU GRAVE (a MAN's), YEZO, JAPAN, . SANTIAGO DE LA ASCENCION, 277 312 347 378381384385388 389 391 427 UtRCANTILE LiBRARi: NEW YORK.. VOYAGE OF THE NYANZA. CHAPTER I. THE START AZORES PONTA DELGADA FURNAS ST MIOHAEl's. July 31- August 15, 1S87. The sun was shining brightly, and a light breeze was blow ing, as we weighed anchor at 1 p.m. on the 21st of July 1887, and slowly sailed out of Plymouth Sound, bound for St Michael's in the Azores. During the run of 1260 miles, we encountered many vari ations of weather and temperature. The first four days were sultry, dull, and hazy ; but on the fifth day out a fresh breeze sprang up, which gradually increased in violence, driving us considerably out of our course. The dingy was damaged, the jib-boom sprung, and the bobstay-shackle car ried away. After forty hours the wind subsided, and beau tiful weather ensued. Nothing worthy of comment occurred during the next five days, except that we were several times becalmed. Eain then commenced to fall, and we were un able to make any appreciable headway owing to lack of wind. The monotony was slightly relieved by the appear- 2 PONTA DELGADA. ance of a shark, which we vainly endeavoured to capture. Alternate calms and gentle breezes caused us to make but very slow progress. At length, on the eighteenth day after leaving Plymouth, we sighted the island of St Michael's ; and on Monday, August 4, we anchored inside the breakwater off Ponta Del- gada, at half-past nine o'clock in the morning, having accom plished an average of only 70 miles a-day. We lost no time in landing, and were courteously conducted over the town by Mr Bessone, the agent for the Royal Albert Yacht Club. There is little to be seen in Ponta Delgada itself ; and the streets are narrow and dirty. A fine stone breakwater in course of construction, and approaching completion, was the principal object of attraction. This excellent work was much needed, the port having hitherto been unprovided with shel ter of any kind. An iron floating dock, and a foundry on shore, also engaged our attention ; and in the afternoon we visited a magnificent garden, belonging to a native gentle man. The grounds were of large extent, and laid out with the greatest taste, and there were several pineries and green houses. We were especially struck with the glorious camel lias, the size and beauty of which far excelled those to which we had hitherto been accustomed. The next day was hot and sultry ; and we did not leave our yacht till late in the afternoon. During the morning we were occupied in examining the damage sustained by our vessel during the breeze in the Bay of Biscay, and in giving orders for the necessary repairs. We also took several inter esting photographs of the town and island as seen from our deck. In the evening we strolled about the town, and visited other native gardens, the latter appearing to us the chief attraction of Ponta Delgada. Many of the native aristocracy are very wealthy, and take great pride in the cultivation of their grounds. Several of them have been laid out " by the best landscape-gardeners of England, and possess collections ST MICHAELS AS A HEALTH-RESORT. 3 of trees and plants which have been imported at enormous expense from all parts of the world. The owners of these gardens most courteously offer every facility to strangers to inspect them ; and the gardeners were invariably civil and attentive, presenting us, in most cases, with flowers upon leaving. It seems strange that St Michael's should be so compara tively little known to English travellers. The climate is ex cellent, house-rent moderate, and supplies good, abundant, and cheap. There are capital roads throughout the island, Pi-ivate Gardens, St Michael's. and carriage-hire is very reasonable. Donkeys are employed for mountain - excursions, and strong and useful animals they are. There are two great requisites which St Michael's lacks, — a good hotel, and an English doctor. If these were forthcoming, we believe that St Michael's would soon prove a formidable and successful rival to Madeira, as a winter health-resort. 4 FURNAS. Wednesday, Aug, 10. — We started at 7 A.M. in a carriage for Furnas, driving along the southern side of the island.. The scenery in parts was very fine, and we thoroughly en joyed our glorious drive. At Villa Franca, we halted for three-quarters of an hour for breakfast ; and arrived at Fur nas shortly after noon. On nearing the latter place we passed a lake with a beautiful chapel upon its shores. Furnas is famous , for its hot springs, which consist of boiling sulphurous water bubbling out of the earth. The ground all around is hot and covered with sulphur deposits. The baths are supported by the Government, and everything is scrupulously orderly and clean. They are said to be highly efficacious in cases of rheumatism or cutaneous com plaints, and they are much frequented by the residents of the island. Each visitor has a private bath and dressing- room ; and each bath is provided with four taps, admitting respectively hot and tepid sulphur and iron water. No charge whatever is made for the use of the baths. There is a very fair hotel attached to the establishment, which was so full of visitors that we had great difficulty in procuring rooms. In the afternoon we called on some friends who reside at a charming spot overlooking the lake which we had passed on our way, and across which we were rowed by our host on our return to the hotel. A dance at the club- rooms enlivened us in the evening, and we did not retire until after midnight. The next morning was spent in a visit to the baths, and afterwards to several private gardens, which, like those at Ponta Delgada, were kept in beautiful order. Furnas is a small place, and is only frequented during the summer. We were agreeably surprised at the moderate charges of the hotel — 5s. a-day for board and lodging ! We returned to Ponta Delgada in the afternoon, by the north road, which for the first part of the way led over a hill so steep that it was impossible to drive up it. We ORANGE INDUSTRY OF ST MIOHAEL's. 5 therefore ascended on donkeys, our empty carriage follow ing behind. The view from the top of the hill was magnifi cent, Furnas lying at our feet, nestled at the base of the mountains. We now dismissed our donkeys, and for the rest of the way we proceeded in our carriage, though the road was rough and hilly throughout. The land on either side was covered with wild flowers, hydrangeas and fuchsias being, perhaps, the most abundant. Ponta Delgada was reached soon after sunset. We remained four days longer at St Michael's, but the weather was hot and cloudy, and at intervals there were very heavy showers of rain ; so that there was little opportunity of seeing more of the island. St Michael's was once famous for its extensive industry in oranges ; but a few years ago the orchards and groves were attacked by a disastrous disease, by which many thousands of the finest trees were destroyed; and though there has since been no fresh outbreak of the epidemic, the island has never recovered its trade. Another branch of industry was affected by the same catastrophe ; for the boxes in which the oranges were exported were made from the wood of the ex tensive pine-forests which cover the interior of the island, and with the falling off of the orange-trade, the forests have also declined enormously in value. Still there is no reason why St Michael's, with its admirable climate and excellent resources, should not once more regain its prosperity. Having examined the repairs which had been effected on our yacht, and found everything in satisfactory order, we set sail once more on our onward voyage, bidding farewell to St Michael's on the afternoon of Monday the 15th of August. CHAPTER II. SANTA MARIA CANARY ISLANDS PALMA — ST VINCENT PUERTO GRANDE SAN ANTONIO CROSSING THE LINE — FERNANDO NORONHA AN INTERESTING CONVICT SETTLEMENT. August 16-Septemier IS, 1887. Our course was now shaped for Palma, in the Canary Islands, from which St Michael's is about 660 miles distant. About 9 A.M. on the day following our departure from Ponta Delgada, we passed the island of Santa Maria, having a very good view of the town from a distance of about four miles. A few fir-trees were the only signs of vegetation that we could observe upon the island, which appeared to us very barren in comparison with St Michael's. The next three days we were assisted by a splendid breeze, and made an excellent run, averaging nearly eight knots an hour. On Saturday, August 20, we arrived off' Palma at 11.30 P.M., and hove-to outside the port to await daylight. Early next morning we proceeded to anchor in thirty fathoms of water off Santa Cruz. The appearance which this town presents from the sea is exceedingly curious and picturesque. It lies at the bottom of an extinct crater, and is surrounded on three sides by lofty and precipitous mountains. On landing we were fortunate enough to meet with a Spanish gentleman, who had lately returned from London. He courteously conducted us round the town, the streets of SANTA CRUZ. 7 which are narrow, though there are some good stores where most articles can be procured. The rearing of cochineal has long been the staple industry of this island. It was once a source of great profit, but the trade has been greatly damaged by the introduction of aniline dyes. Cochineal is still, how ever, abundant here, and a fairly brisk business is carried on in it. We had an excellent dinner in the one hotel of the place before returning to our yacht. The next day being Sunday, we went ashore to Mass in the morning, and were surprised to find a very handsome church, with a beautiful white marble altar. The service was well rendered, and the congregation devout. At the conclusion of the Mass, we rode on mules to the top of a hill overlooking the harbour, the view from which was very fine. Whilst there, our attention was attracted by an interesting festival which was taking place at a little chapel on the sumrnit of the hill. The island of Palma is little known to English travellers, as the difficulty of communication with it is very great. A small schooner carries the mails to and fro between Palma and Teneriffe, and this is the only vessel which regularly calls at the island. Nevertheless the place is well worth seeing, and we much enjoyed our short visit there. We sailed from Palma at 8.30 a.m. on Monday, August 22, and headed for St Vincent, in the Cape de Verde Islands, 810 miles away. On our first day out we sighted the Peak of Teneriffe, the top of which was entirely free from clouds ; and in the course of the afternoon we passed the island of Gomera. We were abreast of Ferro throughout the night. Next day was dull and close with a light air, but on the mor row a fine fresh breeze sprang up, and we found ourselves in the north-east trade- winds. Several flying-fish came on board this day and the next, and two steamers passed close by us. At daybreak on Saturday, August 27, we sighted St Vin cent; and having passed the island of San Antonio, we 8 PUERTO GRANDE. anchored off Puerto Grande, St Vincent, at noon. After lunch we went ashore ; and having procured a bill of health from the Brazilian vice-consul, we strolled about the place. There is, however, absolutely nothing to be seen, the town consisting merely of one straggling street, with a few general stores kept mainly by Portuguese half-castes. An exceed ingly dirty hotel and three or four billiard-rooms complete the attractions of Puerto Grande. There is an almost entire absence of vegetation on this barren island, and a solitary banana-tree is pointed out to strangers as one of the great curiosities of the place ! Puerto Grande is, however, a great coaling station, and most of the steamers which ply between Europe and South America call at the port. Some of the smaller islands in the Cape de Verde group are, unlike St Vincent, exceedingly fertile ; this being especially the case with San Antonio, whence comes almost all the fruit which is sold in the markets of St Vincent. The price of water is very dear at Puerto Grande, and we paid 8s. a ton for our necessary supply. We were not sorry to get out to sea again on Sunday, August 28, shaping a course nearly S.W. for Fernando Nor- onha, 1320 miles distant. The weather was now excessively hot; and the wind was so light, that for several days we made but very .little headway. On the third day out, a terrific deluge of rain accompanied by thunder broke over us ; and for an hour and a half it almost seemed as though a waterspout were falling on the deck. As we approached the equator, the heat became intense, the sea appearing at times like a sheet of glass. Several sharks were seen along side the yacht; and, after great difficulty, we succeeded in capturing one. Shoals of ionita were also observed fre quently playing about the ship. On Thursday, September 8, when we had been eleven days out from St Vincent, and had run only 780 miles, the wind freshened considerably, favouring our progress, and the fol- CROSSING THE LINE. 9 lowing day we ran 225 miles. At noon on Friday our posi tion was, lat. 1° 9' N., long. 30° 11' W. ; and we knew that we were in the neighbourhood of St Paul's Rocks. I was very anxious to visit them, and we spent the greater part of a day in searching for them. At 4 p.m. on Saturday, how ever, we had still failed to discover them ; and, as the main- peak halyards carried away, we gave up the search, and shaped our course direct for Fernando Noronha. The breeze was then very fresh, and we did from seven to eight knots an hour. In the evening, we received a visit from Father Neptune, who was excellently personated by the sail- maker. Having taken the names of those of his sons who had never previously crossed the Line, he retired, notifying his intention of returning on Monday to initiate the novices. We actually crossed the Line about 5 a.m. on Sunday, but the usual ceremonies associated therewith were, of course, out of the question that day. At half -past ten on Monday morning, all the necessary preparations having been com pleted. Father Neptune came on board, attended by his staff, consisting of Aphrodite, the doctor, and the barber. All these characters were admirably represented by various members of the crew. - An awning had been rigged up amidships- and filled with water, thus forming a splendid bath. The novices were duly shaved, doctored, and tumbled headlong into the water, where they were well rolled about in the true orthodox fashion. Much amusement was caused by the attempts of one or two to escape up the rigging. They were speedily captured by. Neptune's police, and compelled to undergo the disagreeable ordeal. The rest of the day was kept as a holiday ; and after dinner, a capital concert was held, in which every one participated, a most enjoyable even ing being thus spent. We had hove to at 8.30 p.m. to wait for daylight, as we were now close to Fernando Noronha. The next morning, Tuesday, September 13, we anchored about IJ mile from the shore, and soon afterwards a boat B 10 FERNANDO NORONHA. came off to us from the island, to make inquiries concerning us, and to give us permission to land. Fernando Noronha is a convict settlement belonging to Brazil, and special leave must be obtained before any one is allowed to land. Merchant vessels are not permitted to lie off the island. I was much struck by the appearance of the convict settlement from our yacht, as it lies at the base of a hill with a towering peak, many of the rocky precipices around it being of a quaint and peculiar shape. The messenger who had been sent on board our vessel had a strange and interesting history. He was a negro who had been condemned to a life-sentence for murder. About nine months before our arrival a mutiny had broken out amongst the convicts, and this man had undertaken alone a voyage to Pernambuco in order to give notice of the outbreak to the Brazilian authorities. The distance was 250 miles, on an open sea, and he accomplished the passage in a frail cata maran. For this courageous act he had received a full pardon from the Government, but he had grown so accus tomed to the island that he preferred to remain there. The governor, Senhor Furtado de Mendonca, received us with the utmost courtesy and hospitality, placing at our disposal interpreters and guides, and affording us every facility for thoroughly inspecting the island. He was unable himself to talk either English or French, and we conversed with him through the medium of his clerk, an Italian. This man was a meek-looking polished individual, dressed in excellent taste, and gentlemanly in his manners. To our surprise we were informed that he also was a convict undergoing a sentence of penal servitude for life, his crime having been an exceptionally brutal murder of a whole family of five persons, for the sake of a comparatively trifling robbery. This exceedingly mild murderous ruffian conducted us politely over the settlement, explaining everything to us with great minuteness, and responding with alacrity to all our questions. FERNANDO NORONHA. 11 The island of Fernando Noronha is about 4^ miles long and IJ mile wide, the highest point being 1000 feet above the level of the sea. A smaller island lies a short distance from it, rejoicing in the ominous name of Rat Island. An old-fashioned stone fort is stationed on a commanding situation overlooking the convict settlement, and a detach ment of Brazilian infantry is stationed there. There are altogether about 1600 convicts on the island, the majority of whom are negroes. Murder and forgery appeared to be the principal crimes which had been committed, and some of the prisoners certainly looked capable of most dastardly and desperate deeds. Others, on the other hand, like our worthy guide, appeared outwardly as innocent and guileless as lambs ; and it was difficult to realise that many of these were amongst the most bloodthirsty offenders. Apart from their enforced isolation from their country, I could not help thinking that their lot was by no means a hard one for penal convicts. Their compulsory work extends over but three hours a-day, and consists of ordinary field-labour. The rest of the time they have to themselves, living in their own houses with their wives and children ; and unless they are violent, mutinous, or incorrigible, they are not subjected to any prison discipline. If I were a convict, I should certainly prefer Fernando Noronha to Portland or Dartmoor. We dined at the governor's house at 5 p.m., and there we met three Englishmen connected with the British Museum, who had been spending some time upon the island, engaged in botanical and ornithological pursuits. They had gathered together a very interesting collection of specimens, and a most pleasant evening was spent in their society. They were living in the house as guests of the governor, and were unanimous in their expressions of grateful appreciation of the kindness which they had received at his hands. At the conclusion of our dinner the convicts were paraded in front of the governor's house, and sang an- evening hymn to the 12 FERNANDO NORONHA. Virgin. ' ' On our return to the yacht we found that the cour teous governor had sent us nine sacks 'of cocoa-niits, besides an immense quantity of bananas and fruit of various kinds. The next morning we returned ashore in good time, and after breakfasting at Government House we enjoyed a delightful day's ride through the island. Our guide upon this occasion was another " thorough gentleman," who spoke French with perfect accuracy and fluency. Feeling assured this time that I was dealing with one of the officials, I asked him whether he intended to remain long upon the island. To my confusion he replied, " Malheureusement, monsieur, j'ai encore sept ans." He was a French convict, undergoing ten years for counterfeiting bank-notes. The island had looked barren and rocky from the sea, and I was quite unprepared for the extreme beauty of the scenery and the luxuriance of the vegetation which we encountered during this interesting day's ride. The coast line is indented with many little bays, the sandy beaches of which are homelike and charming. Fruit is exceedingly abundant throughout the island, and the oranges were, to my mind, the best I had ever tasted. On our return from our ride we went aboard the yacht, accompanied by the governor and other officials, including the two officers of the detachment quartered at the fort, who were much interested in the Nordenfelt guns with which our vessel was provided. We worked the latter with dummy cartridges, greatly to the enjoyment and edification of our Brazilian visitors. In the evening we dined again with the governor, afterwards listening to the convicts' band, which really played remarkably well. Next day, Thursday, September 15, after breakfasting again with the governor, we went for another ride, accom panied by some of the officials. Amongst other places, we visited the summer residence of the governor, where we were regaled with cocoa-nuts and,' delicious grapes; We RAT ISLAND. 13 rode to the extreme north end of the island, where we rested for some time in a shady grove of bananas, returning to the settlement about 2 p.m. In the afternoon I went over to Rat Island in the launch, and there I found a Brazilian who spoke English well, having spent many years in the United States. He was working the phosphate rock of which the island is mainly composed, and anticipated a most successful issue from his speculation. An English barque was lying off the island, engaged in loading the phos phate rock ; and we found the captain and crew in a state of great excitement, as two of the sailors had attempted the night before to set fire to the vessel, escaping themselves in one of her boats. Fortunately the dastardly attempt had proved abortive, though the men themselves had got clear off in one of the ship's boats. Rat Island is covered with a thick undergrowth of creepers, which renders motion most difficult as soon as one gets off the narrow paths. I shot four small turtle-doves, but owing to the dense brushwood I only succeeded in securing two. On returning to the main island at five o'clock, I took some photographs of the place, as also a group of the officials, after which we had our final dinner with the governor. Senhor Furtado de Mendonca, our friendly host, accompanied us to the beach to bid us farewell, attended by the whole body of officials. The convict band marched in front of us, playing a bright and inspiriting tune ; and the strains of their music were wafted across the water to our ears during the whole course of our passage from the shore to the yacht. Nothing could exceed the hospitable kindness which was displayed to us by every one, from the governor downwards, during the whole of our three days' visit ; and amongst my pleasantest recollections of the voyage of the Nyanza there will always stand prominently forth the convict island of Fernando Noronha. 14 CHAPTEE III. TRINIDAD INEFFECTUAL ATTEMPTS AT LANDING RIO DE JANEIRO H. M. S. RUBY TI JUCA CORCOVADA. September 16-Octoher 8, 1887, We sailed from Fernando Noronha at 8.30 a.m., Friday, September 16 ; and our course was now directed a little E. of S. for the small island of Trinidad. The distance between these two islands is a little over 1000 miles ; and favoured by good winds during the greater part of the time, we accomplished the passage in seven days. Nothing worthy of record occurred on the way ; but on reaching Trinidad we found that the wind was blowing straight into the S.W. bay, where is the only anchorage in the island, and that at the best of times a very precarious one. We therefore decided to let the yacht lie off, and to disembark in the boats, taking with us all the necessary appliances for camping out. After many vain endeavours we found it impracticable to land on this side of the is land, as a heavy surf was breaking in the bay, and both wind and sea were very high. - Accordingly we coasted round the island until we reached the S.E. bay, where there seemed to be less surf, and the beach appeared to be sandy and convenient. Here I determined to make an effort to land ; and taking with me six hands, together with tents and provisions,, I went off in the lifeboat. Vast numbers TRINIDAD. 15 of gannets and frigate-birds circled round us as we rowed towards the shore ; the latter boldly swooping down upon our heads, and compelling us to defend ourselves with boat-hooks. We knocked down three, and this appeared to irritate the rest more than ever. They were probably pro tecting their nests on shore, which they thought that we were coming to rob. As we approached the spot where we had intended to land, we found the water suddenly be come very shallow ; sharp coral heads appeared above the surface in all directions, and a heavy surf was breaking some distance from the shore. We tried to find a passage in various places, but our efforts were all in vain; and at length we were most reluctantly compelled to relinquish our attempt, and returned to the yacht without having effected a landing. The island of Trinidad — which must not, of course, be confounded with the larger and better-known island of the same name in the West Indies — appears from the sea to be barren and precipitous, many of the rocks being of fan tastic shape. Those called Nine - pin and Sugar-loaf are the two most prominent and peculiar of aspect. The S.E. cove, where we tried to land, had a pleasant expanse of ground gently sloping up from the water's-edge and covered with grass ; but this was almost the only sign of vegetation which we could observe ; though it is said that the valleys were at one time thickly covered with forest - trees. The island is three miles long by 1:|- mile broad, the centre peak rising to a height of 2020 feet above the sea. Dr Halley took possession of Trinidad in the name of His Britannic Majesty William III. on April 17, 1700 ; and in 1781 an English colony attempted to settle on the island. The experiment, however, was unsuccessful, and was aban doned in a short time. The Portuguese more recently made a similar effort, but met with no better success. The is land has now been uninhabited for many years, and is a 16 RIO DE JANEIRO. sort of No Man's Land, although it is formally claimed by Brazil. Many stories of buried treasure are connected with the island ; and expeditions have from time to time vainly endeavoured to discover this mysterious store. The latest search took place in 1889, when a certain Mr Knight spent several months on the island, digging in a great number of different spots without any results whatever. It is most probable that these rumours are . mere legendary' fictions, and that no treasure at all lies buried there.^ A cluster of three small islands, called the Martin Vas Rocks, lies about 26 miles from Trinidad ; but we did not think it worth our while to go out of our way to visit them. Our next point of destination was Rio de Janeiro, 750 miles W. by S. of us ; and thither we accordingly directed our course. The weather was now considerably cooler, and we rolled more or less during most of the way. We ran, however, on an average, 140 miles a-day ; and at 3.30 a.m., Thursday, Sep tember 29, we sighted the light on Cape Frio. We now coasted along an exceedingly picturesque shore, with sandy beaches sloping to the water's-edge, and well-wooded hills in the background. In the course of the day, several large turtles were seen close alongside the yacht. I fired at two with an express rifle, and wounded both, but was unable to secure either, though we lowered the dingy after them. As soon as the boat approached they dived, and we saw nothing further of them. Fort Santa Cruz, at the entrance to the bay of Rio de Janeiro, was passed at 5.30 p.m., and we dropped anchor near Fort Villeganion at six o'clock, in the portion of the harbour set apart for men-of-war. Eight war-vessels were lying at anchor near us, three of these being Brazilian, two English, two French, and one American. We did not go ashore that evening, as the health-boat failed to put off to us. Rio de 1 "The True Story of the Treasure Hunt.'' By WiUrid Pollock. 'Black wood's Magazine,' September 1890. RIO DE JANEIRO. 17 Janeiro looked very well at night from the anchorage, the bright rows of gas-lamps extending all along Botofogo Bay, whilst on the opposite side of the harbour the large suburb of Nitheroy displayed its myriad lights. Soon after anchor ing, a launch came off to us from H.M.S. Ruby, with offers of assistance and friendly greetings from the senior officer on the station. If the city looked well beneath the canopy of night, the view from the deck on the following morning was beautiful and enchanting beyond description. The grand harbour was studded with innumerable islands, like emeralds embedded in an azure setting. Behind the town on every side arose a background of mountains and undulating hills, clothed from base to summit with tropical foliage. We went ashore at ten o'clock, and having obtained our letters, we visited the market, which, though dirty, is very large, and contained a splendid display of fruit. One portion of the market is set apart for the bird-fanciers ; and here we saw great numbers of curious birds, some of which were entirely new to us. Enor mous quantities of green parrots are brought hither for sale from Para, and they can be purchased for a merely nominal sum. The streets of Rio are for the most part narrow, and the shops generally small. An exception, however, must be made in favour of Rua d'Ouvidor, the principal thoroughfare, which is adorned with good shops. The display of jewellery was especially fine, some of the diamonds being extraordinarily magnificent. There are no public buildings worthy of note, and the churches generally are ugly outside and tawdry within. We had an excellent luncheon at the Hotel de Londres, and afterwards proceeded by tram to the Botanical Gardens. These are seven miles out of the town, and the road to them took us along Botofogo Bay. The gardens are extremely beautiful, the principal feature in them being a wonderful avenue of palms, absolutely regular and symmetrical, all the c 18 A CRICKET-MATCH. trees being very lofty, and of precisely the same height. There is also a fine avenue of mango-trees, with which we were much interested, on account of its novelty to us. We visited the Hotel de, Londres again for dinner, which fully sustained the opinion which we had formed from our lunch of the culinary excellency of the establishment. In the evening we lounged along the Rua d'Ouvidor, which is to Rio de Janeiro what the Corso is to Rome, or the Chiaja to Naples. All the Mite and fashion of the city assemble here, and the police des mceurs exercise a strict supervision, exclud ing rigidly all doubtful characters. On Sunday, October 2, we went on board the Ruby in the forenoon to the service, which was short and devotional, the hymns being sung with, great spirit by the men. We re mained to lunch with the captain, who gave us some valuable hints as to the shooting on the Patagonian coast, whither we were intending to go for sport. In the afternoon we went ashore, and had a pleasant ride upon a tram-car for several miles in the direction of Tijuea. The road wound tip amongst the hills at the back of Rio de Janeiro, past handsome villas and lovely gardens. The scenery, as we ascended, became exquisitely beautiful and widely extensive. On our return we visited the Acclimatisation Gardens, which were tastefully laid out, and kept in excellent order. A large crowd of people, chiefly of the poorer classes, were enjoying themselves in a decorous and quiet manner. The evening was spent on board our yacht. A cricket-match took place on the following day between the officers and men of the Ruby and the city of Rio de Janeiro, in which the latter defeated the sailors. The ground was prettily situated between low hills, which were covered to the summit with flowering trees and palms; and the wicket was in fairly good condition. The weather was now excessively hot, though the sea-breeze usually set in in the afternoon. TIJUCA. 1 9 On Tuesday, October 4, having paid a visit in the morn ing to the admiral and officel'S of the U.S. flagship Lan caster, we went ashore after lunch and drove to Whyte's hotel at Tijuea, where we were joined by some of the officers of the Ruby. The hotel stands in a lovely spot about 10 miles from Rio, and at an elevation of 2000 feet above the sea. Consequently the situation is far healthier than that of the city, and the place is quite free from yellow fever. Never theless, it is a curious fact that if a patient who has been attacked by the fever at Rio comes up to Tijuea before he has recovered, he invariably meets his death. The hotel stands in the midst of a lovely garden in a secluded valley, surrounded on all sides with well-wooded hills. Having re mained to dinner, we missed the coach for the return journey which connects with the tramway, and were compelled to hire a carriage, for which I was charged the exorbitant price of 10 milreis, or £1 sterling, for a drive of about 2| miles. The American admiral, accompanied by his flag captain and lieutenant, returned our call next morning ; and in the afternoon we took a tram, or iond as it is locally called, for Riachuelo, where we ascended a hill by an incline lift, 1683 feet long. On arriving at the top, we had a glorious drive to the summit of Santa Thereza, where we inspected the new reservoir, and whence we were treated to one of the most picturesque panoramas in the neighbourhood of Rio, the whole city, together with the bay and its numerous beautiful islands, being outspread at our very feet. We also obtained a magnificent view of the famous Corcovada mountain. On Friday the weather completely changed, a strong breeze blowing all day. We went ashore after breakfast, and made an expedition to the summit of the Corcovada. The mountain is ascended by a " Riggenbach " railway, similar to that up the Righi and other mountains in Switzerland. The starting-point is at Cosme Velio, whither we proceeded by 2 0 CORCOVADA. tram. The gradients of the mountain-railway are very steep in places, even reaching to 1 in 6 ; and the highest point of the line is 2198 feet above the level of the sea. There is one iron viaduct of three spans, and two smaller bridges. The train consisted of only one carriage, which was pushed up from behind by the engine, the latter being provided with a centre cog-wheel, running on a centre cog-rail. By this means the train can at any moment be brought to a sudden stand - still and securely clamped, in case of accident or necessity. At the height of 1525 feet the train halts for a few minutes at a station called Paneiras, where there is an hotel owned by the railway company. The terminus itself is situated 130 feet below the summit of the mountain, on which is a circular iron structure resembling a band-stand. Unfortunately, at the time of our visit the weather was dull and cloudy, and we therefore missed the view, which is said to be indescribably magnificent. We returned by the train to Paneiras, where we stopped for lunch, afterwards enjoying a walk in the lovely forest, which clothes the mountain-side in the vicinity of the hotel. The vegetation is wondrously dense and vigorous, rich and rare orchids hanging on almost every tree, and the ground being carpeted with ferns of innumerable variety of species. Butterflies of brilliant and sparkling hue, and graceful little humming - birds, flitted about in all directions, enhancing the fairy-like character of the scene. Our stroll was cut short by a downfall of rain, and we returned to our yacht about 5 p.m. The following day, Saturday, October 8, brought our in teresting visit to Rio de Janeiro to a close. The morning was occupied in marketing ashore, and in settling up various accounts. The prices which we were charged by ship- chandlers and others appeared to us extortionate in the extreme, in some cases nearly doubling those which are demanded from merchant vessels. A yacht-owner seems to be regarded as lawful prey by these maritime dealers, and SQUALLY WEATHER. 21 this remark does not by any means apply to the port of Rio de Janeiro alone. Before returning to the yacht, we visited the Ruby and bade farewell to the friendly officers ; and at 3 p.m. we weighed anchor, and sailed round all the men-of-war, dipping our ensign to each in turn, by way of a parting salute. The weather was now setting in squally, and rain began to fall heavily. There was a nasty sea on the bar, and we therefore decided to anchor for the night inside the entrance to Botofogo Bay. 22 CHAPTER IV. squally weather MONTE VIDEO URUGUAY SAN JOSE A SWISS COLONY THE BULL-RING AND SALADEROS OF MONTE VIDEO. October 9-27, 1887, The breeze proved pleasant and favourable next morning, though there was a considerable swell outside the bar. We hove up anchor at 10.30 a.m., and soon were speeding gal lantly along before the wind at the rate of 11 knots an hour. We were now bound for Monte Video, a distance of a little over 1000 miles. The first day we ran 233 miles, but on Tuesday, October 11, the weather set in squally, and the sea rose, so that we were obliged to keep the yacht a little out of her course in order to ease her. Towards evening the wind dropped, and at sunset the air was almost a dead calm; but black thunder-clouds were hanging about, and vivid flashes of lightning appeared to herald the approach of one of those violent storms which are known as pamperos on the South American coast. We therefore double-reefed the fore sail and stay-sail, housed the topmasts, and made all snug for the coming night. The next morning a strong gale was blowing, accompanied by rain, and the weather was very cold. In the course of the day the jib-boom sprang again in the same place as be fore, and the jib-tack carried away. We saw, for the flrst time on the voyage, a large number of Cape pigeons, which SEA-GOING QUALITIES OP THE NYANZA. 23 are very pretty birds, with black and white plumage. We caught two of them with a hook baited with pork ; but I could not find it in my heart to kill them, so we let them go again. All the following day a tremendous sea was running, and the ship laboured a great deal. She behaved, however, splendidly in all respects, and scarcely shipped a drop of water. This was the first opportunity that we had had of really testing her sea-going capabilities, and the result was most satisfactory. On Friday, October 14, the wind dropped, and the sea rapidly went down. The morning was lovely, with a light, crisp air, and we accordingly set the foresail, jib, and flying- jib, and commenced running at good speed again. We sighted a brigantine at 11 a.m., going in the same direction as our selves, and rapidly overhauled her, though she was carrying far more sail than our yacht. By the evening she was away hull down in our wake. It was now again almost absolutely calm, and we had an opportunity of examining the damage sustained during the late storm. A cat-head had been broken, one of the starboard davit-sockets carried away, and the top strake of the launch stove in. These, however, were com paratively trifling damages, and we were more than ever satisfied with the qualities of our little vessel. As we drew near to Monte Video we passed several square- rigged vessels bound for the River Plate, and we seemed to pass them one and all almost as if they had not been moving, although in every case they had all sail set, and a good favourable breeze behind them. On the afternoon of Mon day, October 17, we passed within four miles of Lobos Island, and sighted the town of Maldonado, on the mainland, in the distance. The coast appeared flat and barren, but the town was well lighted at night. At 9 p.m. we sighted Flores light, and an hour later that on the Cerro. At three o'clock on the following morning we dropped anchor about three miles off the town of Monte Video, 24 MONTE VIDEO. finally anchoring in the outer harbour about 8 A.M. We were not much impressed with the appearance of the city as seen from the deck of our yacht, the Cathedral being the only conspicuous building in the place. It was no'on before we were able to go ashore, on account of a delay in the appearance of the health-boat, There is a great contrast between Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Uruguay being far cleaner than that of Brazil, the streets wider and more handsome, and the shops better in every way, The display of jewellery is particu larly splendid, especially in the Caille 25 de Mayo, which is the principal street in Monte Video, It is not so broad, however, as the Caille 18 de Julio, which is planted with trees on both sides, in the manner of European boulevards, and terminates in a large open square, in the centre of which is a lofty pillar, surmounted by a fine statue of Liberty. We lunched and dined at the Hotel Oriental ; but the food and cooking were execrably bad. The hotel itself is a spacious and handsome building, and is generally considered the first in Monte Video. We spent the whole afternoon in strolling about the town, and riding on a tram to the Paso MoUina, a fashionable suburb about five miles distant from the heart of the city, adorned with fine houses and beautiful gardens. We looked in at the Cathedral on our return, but were greatly disappointed with it. The building is decidedly poor from an architectural point of view, and one handsome monument inside it seemed the only object worth inspecting. We were, however, much pleased with our visit to the market, which is a handsome covered building with a fountain in the centre, and containing a magnificent display of fruit and vegetables of every sort and kind. We returned on board at 9 P.M., thoroughly satisfied with our first impressions of Monte Video, our enjoyment of the place having been considerably enhanced by the exquisitely mild and beautiful day. The following morning I was engaged in business with the SAN JOSlS. 25 manager of the London and Brazilian Bank, whom I found exceedingly obliging and courteous, and who, together with his wife and family, contributed most materially to our happiness during the whole of our visit to Monte Video. Under their escort we visited in the afternoon the Thealro Solis, which appeared to me finer and more admirably arranged than any theatre in London, and second only to the Grand Opera House at Paris. It is very handsomely decorated inside, and has four rows of boxes, besides stalls, pit, and gallery. One tier of boxes is reserved solely for the use of ladies, and is provided with a separate entrance, at which gentlemen are not admitted. Unfortunately we were unable to witness a performance at the theatre, as the house is only open during the winter months. Many of the best French and Italian companies pay periodical visits . to the place. On Thursday, October 20, I started upon a short expe dition into the interior of Uruguay. Leaving Monte Video from the Central Railway station, I travelled by train to San Jose, past Canelones and St Lucia. The distance is only 60 miles, but the journey occupied over three hours, though our train was called " express." The line passed through a level country, which appeared to be in a high state of cultivation ; and I understood from a fellow-passenger that arable farming there returned on an average from 10 to 15 per cent per annum on invested capital. After leaving St Lucia the line makes a fearfully sharp curve and then crosses a long iron bridge. San Jos^ is the third city in Uruguay, and contains about 6000 inhabitants. It is, however, a very poor-looking town, badly paved, and worse lighted. There is no gas in the place. Soon after sunrise next morning I left San Jos^ in a ¦primitive, tumble-down, old conveyance, which was dignified by the title of diligence. It was drawn by four horses, and was capable of carrying nine passengers besides the driver. Our D 26 A SWISS COLONY. way lay over a remarkably fine agricultural country, the well-cultivated fields being of vast extent and enclosed by substantial wire fences. The crops, which were principally wheat, looked thriving and healthy, and everything seemed to betoken prosperity. So rich is the soil that the farmers never manure it ; though this state of things cannot last for ever. We stopped to breakfast at a place called Colonia Pauline, which stood in the midst of a pasture district. Here we changed diligences, and proceeded to Colonia Suiza, which was reached about 1.30 P.M. The distance from San Jose was 36 miles, and we had taken seven hours to cover the journey. The road was in many places shockingly bad, and nowhere could it be described as good. I put up at the Hotel Suiza, a most comfortable little inn, with a Frenchman as host. The colony, as its name implies, is composed almost ex clusively of Swiss immigrants. It had been in existence for twenty-six years at the time of my visit to it, and was in a highly flourishing condition. The colonists keep rigidly to themselves, never intermarrying with the natives of Uruguay. They have their own church and their own schools, and main tain their individual and national characteristics. Most of them, however, have lost their rights of citizenship through their long absence from their native country, and are now, together with their children, naturalised Uruguayan subjects. After lunch, mine host of the Hotel Suiza drove me some little distance, to call on two brothers who possessed an estancia of 25,000 acres, upon which they had a magnificent flock of 18,000 sheep, besides a herd of 4000 cattle. They had been in the country for seven years, and were reputed to be doing remarkably well. We found them both busily engaged in sheep-shearing; and I was informed that they worked harder than any of their peons, or farm-labourers. We afterwards visited a small German brewery, which was also doing a thriving business in the colony. CONDITIONS OP FARMING IN URUGUAY. 27 During my expedition to San Jo.si^ and Colonia Suiza, I made numerous inquiries as to the condition of the country, the amount of capital necessary to start farming, and otlier matters of a kindred nature. I found that land was then worth from 20s. to 30s. per acre ; and that no man ought to think of starting farming in the country, on any proper scale at all, without a capital of at least £5000. With this capital, and with due skill and industry, he ought to be able to earn at least 15 per cent clear interest per annum ; and in favour able years he might expect as much as 25 per cent upon his outlay. The only drawback to the country was the unstable government, and the unsatisfactory condition of its political affairs ; and whilst these things are so, neither Uruguay nor any other South American State can really expect to thrive. I returned to Monte Video by way of San Jos4, where, during my brief halt, I visited a curious - looking church in the Plaza de los Treinta Tres. It was built of brick, the plastering of which had not been finished and pointed off, but the interior was decidedly handsome, being adorned with some beautiful marble pillars. I got back to my yacht on the Saturday evening, and on Sunday morning, when I came upon deck, I found quite a heavy sea running in the roadstead, and the wind blowing almost a gale. I went ashore at 9 a.m., to see one of the sights of Monte Video. This was the Sunday morning fair, which is held in the Caille 18 de Julio. The whole length of the street was lined with booths on either side, and an extraordinarily gay and busy scene was going on. Meat, fruit, vegetables, poultry, and pet birds seemed to be the principal articles of trade; though all sorts and conditions of things were being offered for sale besides. In the afternoon we went for a ride. The horses in Monte Video are fine animals, all entire, mares being never ridden. I was told that they would not trot, but I had no difficulty with my animal in that respect. We first went to the Prado, a public 28 , THE BULL-RING A^NJ) SALADEROS park, some five miles out of the town, well laid out, and-pro- vided with an excellent restaurant. Thence we rode on to ¦another park, known as the Villa Colon, which is entirely natural, no attempt at artificial improvement having been made upon it. This seemed to us a most judicious arrange ment, as the native beauties of the park were striking and .effective, several fine avenues of blue- green trees crossing it in different directions. ; The gale continued next day, and I spent the morning and afternoon ashore. Mr H., the manager of the London and Brazilian Bank, had entered my name as a visitor at th^ English Club, and I found this act of courtesy a great comfort and convenience to me during my stay. The club is small, but exceedingly pleasant, and is accommodated with reading, smoking, billiard, and card rooms. I spent the greater portion of my morning there, and, aftfer lunching with the H.'s, we visited the great and well-known bull-ring of Monte Video. It is an enormous building, capable of seat ing 10,000 people, and situated six miles out of the town. During the winter, bull-fights take place here every Sunday, and some of the best Spanish matadors are engaged for these contests, the bulls themselves being, for the most part, imported from Spain. For some days previous to a fight, the bulls are kept in dark stalls, divided by movable partitions. These partitions are hoisted up by men standing on a platform above the stalls, when the bulls are to be let loose into the arena. We were allowed to in,spect the saddlery, lances, and .other equipments used by the picadors in the bull - fights ; and various technical details connected with these sanguinary displays were minutely explained to us. On the morrow, we were taken by Mr L:, agent of the P.S.N.C, in Ms launch, across to the Cerro, where we visited the saladeros,. or slaughter-houses. These are of two kinds, the one for killing mares and the other for killing cattle; The former are slaughtered for the sake of their hides, their OF MONTE, VIDEO. 29 flesh being boiled down for grease. It is rumoured that the so-called " Paysandu ox - tongues " are generally those of mares ; but I have had no means of verifying the truth of this report. I therefore simply give it for what it is worth. The arrangements for killing cattle are neat and excellent. The animal is confined in a pen, on a level with the door of which is a platform running upon rails. A lasso is thrown over the animal's head, and he is drawn out on to the plat form, which is made to pass under a stand. The butcher, who is stationed upon this stand, plunges a long knife into the victim's spine as he passes underneath, and instantan eous death invariably ensues. The carcass is immediately drawn along the rails to the cutting-up department ; and so rapid is the process, so ingenious the machinery, that tivo minutes usually suffice for catching, killing, and cutting up an ox ! We were unable to witness the process, as the sala deros were not working at that season of the year. Wednesday, October 26, was spent in social visits and enter tainments, and on the Thursday afternoon we set sail from Monte Video, having enjoyed a delightful ten days' visit to the capital of Uruguay, thanks to the kindness and hospital ity which we received from every one, and most especially from our good friends at the London and Brazilian Bank. 30 CHAPTER V. CONTRARY WINDS SLOW PASSAGE KUEVO GULF PATAGONIA A HAUL OF PISH AN INDIFFERENT DAy's SPORT PORT MADRTN COMMENCEMENT OF TROUBLES WITH THE SAILORS TRELEW A WELSH COLONY AN EXTRAVAGANT AND BADLY MANAGED RAILWAY A SHOAL OP PORPOISES WHALES PINE WEATHER. October S7-November 17, 1887. We decided not to proceed farther up the Rio de la Plata to Buenos Ayres, but continued our southerly course, making for the Welsh colony on the shore of Nuevo Gulf. The distance to this place from Monte Video was 630 miles, and with a fair wind we hoped to complete the passage in four days. As it was, however, we encountered unfavourable weather, the wind being dead against us for forty-eight hours ; and for another twenty-five hours we were virtually becalmed. Consequently, although we left Monte Video on Thursday, October 27, we did not sight Delgada Point on the peninsula of San Josef, which encloses Nuevo Gulf on the northern and eastern sides, until November 3, exactly one week after setting sail. No event of special interest occurred upon the voyage, except that one evening, whilst setting the mainsail, the boom took charge and knocked down the after binnacle, smashing the bowl. The weather was considerably colder than any which we had met with since leaving England, and for the first time upon our voyage we had a fire in the saloon. NUEVO GULF : A HAUL OF FISH. 31 At various intervals we saw great flocks of Cape pigeons and albatross, and on one occasion a sea-lion came within a hundred yards of the yacht. The sun was shining brightly on the morning of Thursday, November 3, and the temperature had again become quite warm when we entered Nuevo Gulf, and beat up to our an chorage against a head-wind from the west. We had been in sight of the coast of Patagonia for several hours previously; but the prospect had been very dull and uninteresting, con sisting of one unbroken line of white cliffs, from 50 to 100 feet high. At 7 p.m. we anchored in Pyramid Bay, in seven fathoms of water, and about a mile from the shore. This bay was visited by Mr Lambert in 1880, who in his enter taining book, ' The Voyage of the Wanderer,' mentions the fishing here to be very good. Accordingly, after dinner I landed in the dingy to haul the seine, and was enabled to corroborate to the full Mr Lambert's testimony upon this point. We had a most successful trial, catching in three hauls about 2 cwt. of excellent fish. The majority were a kind of large smelt, called peccaray, and there were a dozen or more very large-sized fish, greatly resembling cod. The country bordering on the bay in this neighbourhood is entirely uninhabited. Next day I landed early, hoping to have a good day's sport. Two of my men accompanied me, armed with rifles and revolvers, in case of our encountering any hostile Indians. We climbed the cliff, at the summit of which we found an undulating plain of a sandy nature and with a wretchedly poor soil. The vegetation consisted chiefly of coarse grass growing in patches and small thorn-bushes. Mr Lambert described the district as suitable for sheep and cattle ; but our experience of it was of a diametrically opposite char acter. After walking along for about two miles we came across some animals, which we imagined to be a species of small deer. We could not get very near them, but I was 32 .AN INDIFPEREN-T day's ' SPORT. ' fortunate enough to kill one with a shot frohi my express rifle at the distance of over 120 yards: It proved to be a Mara or Patagonian eavy, resembling somewhat a gigantic hare. We saw several more of these animals during the day, but theiy were very shy, and we were unable to get nearer to them than from 150 to 200 yards. We also sighted four guanacos ; but the country is not adapted to stalking, and we could not get within 1000 yards of them. The only other game which we put up was a brace of par tridges, apparently very much the same as our English birds. On the whole, I was decidedly disappointed, with the result -of our day's excursion, as I had been led from Mr Lambert's account to expect an abundant supply of game. We found several broken eggs of the rhea, or American ostrich, but we could see no trace of the birds themselves. Nor did we see anything of the two lakes mentioned by Mr Lambert. In fact, we did not come across the slightest trace of any water. We reached the shore again at five o'clock, and I strolled along the beautiful sandy beach for a couple of hours, to see whether I could pick up any objects of curiosity. There was a great deal of ¦ drift-wood lying about, and the lower part of the cliffs was filled with prodigious quantities of oyster and clam shells, the low-water rocks being also cov ered with mussels. The only thing which I really picked -up, however, was a sponge belonging to a 64-pounder gun, which must have fallen overboard from some man-of-war and been washed ashore. At dinner we had some of the 'fish which we had caught in the seine the evening before, and we found them very excellent eating. On Saturday, November 5, we got under way and sailed ucross the gulf to Port Madryn, which is the harbour for the Welsh- colony of Chupat. A Norwegian barque was lying in the harbour when we arrived. On going ashore in the -afternoon we were met by two Englishmen, Messrs B. & G.; PORT MADRYN. 33 who were superintending the construction of a railway from the port to Ciiupat. They took us for a stroll, and showed us the progress of the works. Besides the rough huts erected by the railroad employes, there were only four houses in the place, including the future railway station. The con struction of this line was commenced in May 1886, and it was expected to be open for traffic in May 1888. The whole length of the line was to be 43 miles. An English company had undertaken its construction and management ; and from what we could see, it appeared as if everything was being conducted on a most extravagant scale. The engines and rolling stock had all been manufactured in England, sent out in pieces, and put together here. The carriages, which were already finished, were Pullman cars of the most handsome type, fitted up according to all the latest improvements. Considering that the railway is simply intended for the accommodation of a few Welsh colonists, who live in a most rough-and-ready fashion, it certainly did seem little short of ridiculous to see the magnificent Pullman carriages. Messrs B. & G. complained greatly of the insolence and discontent displayed by the Welshmen who had been employed on the line, the conduct of whom had at length become so insup portable that they had all been discharged from the work, and Italians had been imported to take their places. These were proving far more satisfactory in every way, and good progress was being made with the work at the time of our visit to the place. The great difficulty connected with the undertaking was the absolute deficiency of fresh water, every drop of which had to be brought from Chupat. Several borings had been made in various parts, some of which we witnessed in operation ourselves ; but they had all been unsuccessful up to that time. Whether water has since been discovered or not, I am unable to say. During our stay at Port Madryn the first troubles of our voyage began, in the shape of a disagreement with the E 34 . TRELEW. sailing-master. This' man evinced a. spirit of independence and insolent self-will; which;. occasioned me at the time no little uneasiness as to its effect upon, the rest of the crew, and which shortly afterwards culminated in a manner presently to be described. However, upon this occasion I managed to make matters straight, with no worse result than the inconvenience of being prevented from landing for the greater part of one day. On Monday, November 7, we were conducted by Mr G. over the line to Trelew, the terminus for the Welsh colony. The passenger carriages had not yet commenced to run ; so chairs were placed in a brake-van, and we had really a very comfortable journey. The scenery was uninteresting in the extreme, with nothing but sandy plains on either side, studded about with stunted bushes. We could not help recalling with commiseration and pity the difficult and wearisome experiences of Mr Lambert and his party, which are so graphically described in his interesting . book. The line, which was not in existence at the time of his visit, is almost perfectly straight; and as there are neither bridges' nor tunnels, it cannot have been very difficult to construct Mr G. informed us that there w.as an intention to extend it at some future time, so as to open up inland communica tion with Buenos Ayres vid Patagones. On arriving at Trelew we found a letter of invitation from Mr Lewis Jones, the head of the colony, awaiting us ; but it was too late that night to visit him, and we stayed ac cordingly at a homely but very comfortable inn, which had lately been opened near the railway terminus by a Welsh man and his wife. During the night rain fell heavily, but the morning broke clear and fine. We rose at 6.30 a.m., and went off to a lake about half a mile from the inn, in the hope of having some duck- shooting. We saw a great quantity of these birds, as also some very handsome swans with beautiful black necks and A AVELSH COLONY. '35 heads. Unfortunately, however, we wei'c unable to get a shot at them, as they kept well away in the \erj centre of the lake. Trelew was a miserable little place, consisting merely of a few houses erected for the railway officials and navvies, a CO - operative store, and the inn where we had passed the night. No liquor could be obtained, tea being the uni versal drink at every meal. No doubt in course of time this place will grow, and it may be destined to occupy a position of comparative importance ; but at present it was merely in the stage of infancy, and that an infancy ap parently of anything but a robust nature. We started in a dogcart at 11 a.m. to drive to Mr Lewis Jones's house, which was nine miles distant from Trelew. The road passed through the valley of the Chupat, which, though entirely cultivated, principally with wheat crops, appeared to be composed of an exceedingly poor soil, differing but little from the rest of the country. I was, I must confess, grievously disappointed with what I saw, for I had been led to anticipate that in this valley, at least, I should meet with a rich and fertile vegetation. One can hardly understand how any colony, Welsh or otherwise, could have fixed upon such a locality for their future home. The history of this settlement is interesting and curious. In July 1865,, 150 emigrants arrived hither from Wales, attracted by the utter loneliness and seclusion of the spot; their object being to found a colony where nothing but the Welsh language should be spoken, and where they would be compelled to associate solely with members of their own nationality. Their venture proved at the outset- a comparative failure ; for instead of attracting other- Welsh emigrants to the spot; their own" numbers became gradually diminished through the inroads of sickness - and: death, 'so that -within a couple 36 PROSPERITY OP THE COLONY. of years after their first airrival only 120 settlers were left. These, disappointed at the want of fertility exhibited by the soil, and downcast at their losses and the little encouragement which they had received from their fellow- countrymen, abandoned the settlement in 1867, and retired to the shores of Nuevo Gulf. Here they endured most grievous hardships and privations, many of them being reduced to the verge of starvation. Food and aid provi dentially arrived in one of H.M. ships just at the direst extremity of their need ; and from this time their pros pects began to revive in a measure. In 1871 they de cided to return to Chupat, having been reinforced by new arrivals from Wales ; and from the date of their second settlement in the colony, their prosperity has gradually but steadily increased. In 1876 the population had risen to 690, in 1883 it had reached 1286, and in 1887 there were as many as 2300 Welsh inhabitants at Chupat. The valley is divided into 390 farms, nearly all of which were in oc cupation at the time of our visit. The colony is under the management of a president and council, though they are of course subject to the Government of the Argentine Republic. They belong without exception to the Noncon formist religion, though they are divided into several denom inations. On every side one observed evident indications of industry and enterprise. Canals have been constructed, and works of irrigation are in operation ; and with the opening of the railway further progress will doubtless be made. Notwitlistanding these outward signs of prosperity, however, we were given to understand that the majority of the colonists are indolent and apathetic ; and that all the improvements are due to the energy and skill of one or two of their leading men, chief amongst whom, and far in advance of all others, was the host whom we were about to visit, Mr Lewis Jones. During our drive we passed several of the colonists' houses, and we were struck by the an AGREEABLE HOSTESS. 37 slovenly aspect of the houses and farms, which presented a lamentable contrast to the neatness and order which we had noticed in the flourishing Swiss colony near Monte Video. On our arrival at Mv Jones's house soon after noon, we were greatly disappointed to find that he was absent from home, having been called away upon unavoidable business. We were, however, warmly welcomed by his kind and hospitable wife, who made us most comfortable in the new house, which was barely finished, their former house having been washed away by a flood, as described by Mr Lambert. The present house has been erected on the site of the old one, and on the very margin of the river, which is here 100 yards wide. After the first experience, it seemed to us strangely imprudent to have ventured upon a second house on the same spot. After lunch, we drove to Tre Raw,son, the principal village in the colony ; but, as it appeared to us, an untidy, straggling place. Here the governor and officials of the Argentine Republic have their residences, and there is also a post-office, besides two or three stores. The village extends on both sides of the river, and is situated about five miles from the sea. Mov. 9. — A very high wind was blowing this morning, but the weather was otherwise fine. We were obliged to leave Mr Jones's house at a quarter to ten, in order to be in time to catch the train which was to carry us back to Port Madryn. Mrs Jones accompanied us part of the way, until we met her husband returning home from the vi.sit which he had been compelled to make. We had only time to exchange a few words with him, before bidding farewell to him and our agreeable hostess ; and it was a source of great disappoint ment to us that we had been so unfortunate as to miss him. We had been hoping to have gleaned from him much interesting information, not only concerning the col ony, but also concerning the district in which the colony is situated; and, moreover, it would have been a great 38 A BADLY MANAGED RAILWAY. pleasure to have spent an evening in the society of one to whose individual exertions and enterprise the prosperity of the whole colony was almost entirely due. As it was, we might have spent a little more time in his company ; for on our arrival at Trelew, we found that the -train had not yet returned from Port Madryn, whither it had gone back after depositing us, and that we could not possibly leave until late in the afternoon. We therefore went off to the lake again with our guns, and succeeded in bagging one teal and two spur-winged plover. We saw an even greater quantity of game than before ; but they were so shy that we could not get near them. At 5 P.M. the train arrived, but the engine had run short of coal! It would be impossible to start until' more had been fetched ' from Port Madryn, forty-three miles away ! There was no help for it, and grumbling was useless; so, swallowing our disgust and indignation, we made ourselves as comfortable as we could for another night at the inn, where, I am bound to say, we received every care and atten tion from our Welsli host and his wife. On the whole, I was much disappointed with my visit to Chupat ; and if I had known'that the condition of agriculture was so poor, and that there was such a total absence of neatness and order through out the settlement, I certainly should not have thought it worth my while to spend so much time in the neighbourhood, nor indeed to have visited Nuevo Gulf at all. At the same time, I believe that the colony has made distinct progress since Mr Lambert's visit in 1882, though- the expensive rail way, with its Pullman cars, seems, to say the least of it, prem ature, and a rough waggon line would have answered all the requirements of the colony. We left Trelew at 9.30 a.m. next morning, reaching Port Madryn at two o'clock, thus taking four and a half hours to accomplish the journey of forty-three miles. After lunching with Mr G., we went off to the yacht, a gale blowing at the time. A SHOAL OF PORPOISES. 39 Friday, Nov. 11th.— T\\q morning was one of the most lovely imaginable, the gale had quite subsided, and the weather was much warmer than that which we had ex perienced for many days. We went ashore in the morning to bid farewell to Messrs B. and G., who had shown us every attention during our visit to Port Madryn ; and soon after noon we weighed anchor, setting sail with a light, fair breeze. A large shoal of porpoises came round the ship as we were leaving the harbour; and after the carpenter had unsuccess fully endeavoured to harpoon one, the boatswain managed to secure his prey, driving the harpoon through his thick hide, and deep down into his flesh. We played it for about five minutes, and then hoisted it on board, when the butcher's services were brought into requisition. Upon being slaughtered, it bled profusely, like a pig ; and when cooked, it tasted not unlike coarse beef. The men ate heartily of it, and pronounced it very good. AVe intended making for Port St Elena, at the north end of Camerones Bay, and about 150 miles south of Nuevo Gulf ; but a strong gale came on during the following night, and last ed for thirty-six hours. We shipped a great deal of water, which drowned all our fowls, and stove the bulwarks in for wards. Moreover, a strong current sets to the eastward, and we found it almost impossible to beat up against the wind and sea. We therefore decided on the second day to give up our intention of touching at Port St Elena, and directed our course for Stanley, in the Falkland Islands. Whilst the gale was at its height we passed the dead body of a man, dressed in blue clothes, floating by close to the yacht. It was evidently the corpse of some poor sailor who had fallen overboard from his ship and been drowned. When we altered our course we had 489 miles to run before reaching Stanley, and this we accomplished in four days. The wind gradually dropped, and the sea went down soon after we had set our faces towards the Falkland Islands, 40 FINE WEATHER. and the ensuing days were beautiful, warm, and bright. We saw a great number of whales. On Wednesday, November 16, the weather again changed, the air becoming bleak and cold, and the sky so - heavily overcast that there was every appearance of a coming storm. Our anticipations of bad weather were not, however, realised ; for, when the sun set, the sky cleared and the evening became beautifully fine. We had a calm pleasant night, and by day break on the following morning we found ourselves running along the coast, scarcely more than three miles away from the shore. 41 CHAPTER VI. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS STANLEY — AN UNPLEASANT INCIDENT ENFORCED DELAY AN IMPROVING COLONY AND AN EXCELLENT GOVERNOR H.M.S. SWALLOW WILD-FOWL AND GAME SEALS A day's SHOOTING — SUBMARINE MINING OPERATIONS. November 17-December 5, 1887. Coasting along the northern shore of the East Falkland Island, we passed the Volunteer Rocks and soon found ourselves off Stanley. The wind, however, was dead ahead of us, and we had great difficulty in beating up against it, so that we did not anchor off Mr Dean's , pier until the after noon. We greatly admired the appearance of the little settlement as we viewed it from our anchorage. The houses were chiefly built of wood ; and though small, they all looked neat and clean, and the majority of them had little greenhouses attached to them. We landed and called on the governor, Mr Kerr, who together with his family gave us a cordial and hospitable reception, Government House was an old-fashioned, rambling building, the exterior of which was by no means attractive. It was, however, exceedingly comfortable inside, and great improvements had been made on it by Mr Kerr. A battery of three guns behind a small earthwork was supposed to protect the house ; but it did not appear likely to have been of much service, as all the guns were old and worn out. One of them F 42 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. was dismounted, and the carriages of the two others were falling to pieces. On strolling through the town we found that its closer acquaintance did not belie the opinion which we had formed of it from a distance. The streets and houses were kept in excellent order, and the large general stores, of which there were three, were clean-looking and well arranged. There were several minor shops, two inns, and, as it seemed to us, an inordinate proportion of public-houses. We noticed a pretty little Catholic chapel, though owing to the want of a priest there was no service ; but the English church had been destroyed two years before by a landslip, and had not yet been rebuilt. The cemetery, which we visited, was evidently carefully attended to ; we observed a large number of sailors' graves. The present history of the group of Falkland Isles does not reach back much more than two hundred years. It is true that they were sighted by Davis in 1592; but Captain Strong was the first to visit them in 1689, and they were named by him after his patron, Lord Falkland. They were occupied in 1710 by the French, who established a colony at Port Louis, Berkeley Sound, in 1763. Five years later they were, however, expelled by the Spanish, who in their turn were forced to yield them up to the English in 1771. The latter neglected to colonise the islands, which were in consequence claimed by the Argentine Republic, who estab lished a settlement at Port Louis in 1820. During a dispute between that republic and the United States in 1831, the latter destroyed the colony.- Once again the British flag was hoisted on the Isles in 1833, and since that time they have been effectively occupied by the English. The seat of government was removed from Port Louis to Stanley in 1844. The group consists of two main islands, called respectively East and West Falkland, and about one hundred other AN UNPLEASANT INCIDENT. 43 smaller islets. The total area of the whole group does not exceed 6500 square miles. The climate is bleak and boister ous, and owing to the prevalence of strong winds no trees or crops can be raised. The thermometer varies from 30° to 50° Falir. in the winter, and from 40° to 60° in the summer. An enormous quantity of rain falls, and an average of 240 days in the year are registered as " wet." The islands are mountainous, the highest point — viz., the summit of Mount Adam — being 2315 feet above the level of the sea. The soil is chiefly peat, which is used for fuel. The population num bered 811 in 1871, and 1843 in 1887, 850 of the latter residing in Stanley. A mail arrives and leaves for Europe once a-rnonth by the Hamburg Kosmos S.N.C. Altogether, we should scarcely be inclined to recommend the Falkland Islands as a desirable place of residence for those who are at liberty to choose for themselves. On Friday, November 18, the day after our arrival at Stanley, a highly unpleasant incident occurred. My sailing- master, with whom, as I have mentioned above, I had already had some little trouble, accosted me bluntly when I came on deck in the morning, and informed me that he had determined not to leave the harbour until I had dis missed one of the servants to whom he had taken a dislike. Apart from my unwillingness to be browbeaten by my own employd in this manner, I felt no inclination to accede to his demand, for I had found nothing worthy of blame in the conduct of the servant referred to. I therefore told the fellow that I should certainly do nothing of the kind ; and I warned him that he was not at liberty to leave me thus- at " a moment's notice, and that if he persisted in his deter mination I should prosecute him for breach of contract and insubordination of conduct. Upon this the man completely lost his temper, and passionately made use of the most violent and abusive language towards me in the presence and hearing of several of the sailors upon deck. To put an 44 ENFORCED DELAY. end to this scene I went ashore and reported the hiatter to the shipping-master, who sent a message forthwith to the yacht summoning the offender before him. The man took no notice of this summons, and not until another messenger had been despatched for him, some three hours later, did he condescend to put in an appearance. He was then consider ably the worse for .drink, and was most argumentative and irrepres,sible. The shipping-master informed him that he had, by his refusal to take my vessel out of harbour, ipso faeto dismissed himself. He was accordingly ordered to return on board to pack up his things, and to be ready to quit at 5 p.m. During all the time that he remained on board he was very noisy and troublesome, using foul language, and annoying everybody ; and it was with the greatest difficulty, and only after threatening to send for the police, that we finally succeeded in getting rid of hini. Three days after, I settled up with him and paid him off, he being so drunk meanwhile that it was impossible to attempt to reckon up with him. He left the island on the following day by the Kosmos Company's s.s. Setos. This unpleasant contretemps necessitated niy despatching a cablegram to England for a new sailing-master, and delayed us at' Stanley for three months. It was not until the 10th of the following February that we were able once again to put out to sea. The prospect of this long delay was not very inviting, but, with one trifiing exception, all hands on board acquiesced in the inevitable with excellent grace ; and after all, we found so many friends, and received such kindness on every side, that the time passed away far more pleasantly and rapidly than any of us at first anticipated.; H.M.S. Swallow was lying at anchor in the harbour during the greater part of our sojourn at Stanley, and Captain F. and her other officers contributed in no small degree to relieve the tedium of our waiting-time. We also had the opportunity of gaining a further insight into the condition,. AN IMPROVING COLONY. 45 capabilities, and prospects of the islands, and made the very agreeable acquaintanceship of the Messrs Dean, who possess the chief ship-repairing yard, as also of the Rev. Lowther Brandon, the colonial chaplain at Stanley. The latter preached us excellent sermons on the Sundays, though since the unfortunate destruction of his church his congregations have been very small. Jle was making strenuous efforts to raise a fund for the rebuilding of the church, in which he was being ardently supported by the bishop of the diocese. The latter, however, appeared to us to be far too ambitious and extravagant in his aims, for he had insisted upon the raising of £7000, a sum of money which .seemed a great deal in excess of the requirements of that small settlement. Already £3000 had been subscribed or promised, and I could not help thinking that this was amply sufficient. After. lunch, on our first Sunday in Stanley, we walked out to see the new reservoir which was in course of con struction, in order to enable the water for the use of the colony to be obtained from a fresh source, that hitherto in use having been condemned as unwholesome and dangerous. During this walk we learned that the whole of the land in the colony had been already taken up, with the exception of 600,000 acres belonging to the Falkland Islands Company, which was freehold. The land is held on a nineteen years' lease. from the Crown, the present rental being £10 per 6000 acres. No leases will be renewed at the expiration of their term for a smaller sum than £20 per 6000 acres, and in many cases the rentals will be raised to £25 and upwards. This improvement in the value of property was in, a great measure due to "the governor, Mr Kerr, who, during the seven years that he had held his office, had enormously improved the financial position of the colony. Exports had risen from £20,000 per annum in 1870 to £108,000 per annum in 1887, and imports from £21,000 to £67,000. The 46 FREEDOM PROM CRIME. colony was entirely self-supporting, and there was no public debt whatever. The only tax was that on dogs, but licences had to be taken out by publicans. Import duties were charged on wine and spirits and tobacco at much the same rates as those in England. The exports consisted almost entirely of wool, sheep-farming being the principal occupa tion of the colony. The islands were almost free from crime, though drunkenness seemed to prevail to a more than average extent. This, no doubt, was mainly due to the unnecessarily large number of public-houses, which I have already noticed above. Minor charges were settled by the police magistrate, the more serious cases and those of appeal being adjudicated upon by a supreme court, presided over by the governor, and provided with a jury. Capital punish ment was allowed for the crime of murder, but only one execution had ever taken place in the colony. Coroners' inquests were held in cases of necessity, similar in all respects to those in England, except that the number of jurymen was restricted to six. A detachment of marines was formerly stationed at Stanley, but in 1879 they were withdrawn ; and the welfare of the colony is intrusted to the care of a few policemen, who are for the most part old army or navy pensioners. A very strong feeling of loyalty to the old country prevails throughout the Falkland Islands, a strong evidence whereof has been afforded by the liberal sum of £280 which has been subscribed for the Imperial Institute, and which signifies more than 3s. per head of the population. We doubt whether this proportion will be equalled throughout the wide extent of the British empire. There are no roads throughout the islands, with the exception of a short one through the settlement at Stanley. On Thursday, November 24, I visited the Bidston Hill, a fine four-masted ship that had been lying at Stanley for the last seven months undergoing repairs. She had met with H.M.S. SWALLOW. 47 terrific weather whilst doubling Cape Horn, and her top masts and top-gallant-masts with all gear attached had been completely carried away. The repairs had been executed by the Messrs Dean, and the master of the ship pronounced the work to have been excellently done. The work-people, how ever, had been outrageously slow and leisurely in their operations ; and the cost of everything had been most exorbitant. The ship-carpenters received 16s. 9d. and the blacksmiths 20s. per day ; whilst every man was paid 3s. per hour for overtime. Altogether the repairs to the ship had cost £9500, a sum which seemed ridiculously high. The weather at this period was exceedingly disagreeable, heavy rain falling day after day, accompanied not un frequently by strong, cold gales. I went ashore most days ; but there was little chance of seeing anything, and pool at Government House occupied the greater part of our time. During the finer intervals we frequently strolled in the governor's gardens, which were well stocked with European vegetables and with strawberries, melons and cucumbers being grown under glass. We were amused by being shown a small apple preserved in spirits, and regarded as a great curiosity, as being the only one ever produced in the colony. H.M.S. Swallow arrived on Friday, November 25, and next day we were introduced to Captain F. at Government House. That same afternoon H. went out shooting, and brought back three fine geese and about a dozen dotterel. Wild-fowl abound in certain parts of the islands, and good sport can often be obtained. Three species of geese are met with here — the upland, the brent, and the kelp. The last-named is a very handsome bird, but is quite unfit for food. The duck tribe is represented by widgeon, teal, x^ampas-teal, grey ducks, and steamer-ducks, the last two sorts being inedible. Black- necked swans are also occasionally to be met with, but they are somewhat rare. Snipe, on the other hand, are very abundant. The islands are famous for their sea-birds, included in 48, SEALS — A day's SHOOTING. which are to be found moUymauks, shags, divers, red and, white-breasted grebes. Cape-hens, gulls, and penguins. There are several varieties of gulls, one in .particular with a bright pink breast being' especially beautiful. The penguins are of three sorts — the king, the gentoo, and the rocky penguin. Wild horses, cattle, and pigs exist in some parts, as alsO' guanaco, goats, and rabbits. These, however, are not indig enous, but are the descendants of those animals which were brought to the islands at the times of the French and Spanish occupations, and which were left free to roam at will when those colonies were destroyed. The cattle are now reduced to a few herds, which are exceedingly wild and difficult to approach. Neither are the wild horses or pigs very numerous^ and it is probable that they will all become extinct before the expiration of many years. Foxes were formerly exist ent here in great abundance, but they have been entirely killed off, on account of the ravages which they wrought amongst the young lambs ; and not a single fox is now to be found.. Hares and rabbits, however, are constantly increas ing, though it is a curious fact that notwithstanding the perfectly healthy condition in which they are, the former breed is visibly diminishing in size. The hair-seal frequents the coasts, and large " rookeries " of these marine animals are to be found on some of the minor islands. The fur-seal was also very abundant at one time; but owing to the reckless and indiscriminate slaughter that ensued for many years, the breed was nearly exter minated. Now the seals are rigidly protected between the months of October and April, and a heavy penalty is exacted for killing them during the close season. On Wednesday, November 30, we went across to a place called Sparrow Cove, in Mr Dean's steam-launch, for the purpose of having a day's shooting. We were accompanied by Captain F. and three other officers of the Swallow ; but the result of the day's sport was rather disappointing, our SUBMARINE MINING OPERATIONS. 49 total bag consisting only of six geese, three hares, and one snipe. We visited a rookery of gentoo penguins, and there we saw a curious and interesting spectacle. The nests, if so they may be called, consisted of slight depressions in the ground, close together, and in regular lines about a foot apart. Each nest, as a rule, contained two eggs, and the mother-birds refused to leave them until they were actually driven off. They then waddled away with an absurd gait a short distance up the hill, keeping up all the while an un earthly and discordant screeching, and snapping at us with their long bills. The newly-hatched chicken penguins were curious ugly little things covered with a greyish down. The day after our shooting excursion, a dance was given by the petty officers and men of H.M.S. Swallow in a sail- loft. The room was very prettily decorated with flags, and dancing was kept up with great vigour and spirit till the early hours of the morning. Saturday, Becemher 3. — Lunched with Captain F. on board the Swallow, and afterwards witnessed some interesting sub marine mining operations. A cask was moored at a certain distance from the ship, and this was the imaginary obstruc tion which had to be blown up. The charge consisted of 20 lb. of gun-cotton, and it was fired by electricity. A column of water ascended some 80 to 100 feet into the air with a very fine effect, and nothing more was seen of the cask ! On the following morning we attended divine service on board the Swallow, the hymns being extremely well sung by the officers and men ; and in the afternoon we decided to start the following morning in company with the Swallow, to visit some of the minor islands belonging to the Falkland group, and to endeavour to get some shooting on them. Accordingly, at 10 a.m. on Monday, December 5, we once again weighed anchor for a while, and headed out of the harbour towards the open sea. G 50 CHAPTER VII. AN EXCURSION AMONG THE FALKLAND ISLANDS LIVELY ISLAND GOOD SPORT A COUPLE OP ACCIDENTS SPEEDWELL ISLAND A PENGUIN -ROOKERY " SHAGS " GEORGE ISLAND PIG- SHOOTING A NATIVE MENU A SEA-LION PORT DARWIN CHRISTMAS DAY ANOTHER UNPLEASANT INCIDENT NEW-YEAr's EVE. December 5-31, 1887. On rounding Cape Pembroke we saw the Swallow waiting for us ; and immediately upon our appearance she signalled to us, offering to take us in tow. To this we readily agreed, as the wind was against us, and we should have been obliged to beat the whole way. As it was, we were comfortably towed along at about six knots an hour, and at 7 p.m. we anchored in Kelp Bay, Lively Island, where there is a settlement, which was not, however, visible from our anchorage. Pre vious to our arrival in the bay we had passed some rather pretty and striking scenery, which was enlivened by exten sive clumps of the handsome tussac-grass which grew in many places to a hieght of seven or eight feet. A short but heavy hailstorm broke over us just before we came to anchor, the hailstones being of enormous size. In the evening Captain F. came on board our yacht, accom panied by the Messrs C, who had leased the whole of Lively Island from the Falkland Islands Company, and had over 10,000 sheep grazing upon it. These gentlemen invited A COUPLE OF ACCIDENTS. 51 US to their house for the following day, and accordingly we went ashore at 9 a.m. in the Swallow's steam-cutter, with several of the officers of the ship. The house belonging to Messrs C. was close to the landing-place, and was the only one upon the island. Though small and built of wood, it was very comfortable inside. After a good breakfast, we started forth for a day's shooting, which turned out most enjoyable and successful. There were an enormous number of snipe on the island, and they were so tame that we had almost to kick them up. Geese were also exceedingly abundant, and we could have shot any quantity of them, as they allowed us to get quite close to them ; but they were unfit to eat at that season of the year, and we therefore let them alone. In the afternoon we had some excellent sport at a pond with teal and widgeon ; and on our return to the settlement at 6 p.m. we found that we had bagged, with eight guns, fifty couple of snipe, twenty-one teal, and six widgeon. The next day we resumed our shooting, and our bag, with the same number of guns, consisted of thirty-five teal, three widgeon, and ten couple of snipe. It proved, however, rather an unfortunate day so far as I was personally concerned, for a couple of accidents happened to me. The ponds where we shot were at some distance from the landing-place, and Mr C. had therefore kindly provided horses for us to ride. The animal allotted to me was a young one, only partially broken in, and never ridden but once before in its life. As I was mounting, and before I could settle myself in the saddle, the creature commenced to buck violently, and threw me heavily to the ground. Though considerably shaken, I was uninjured, and on the second attempt I succeeded in getting safely astride of her, and soon she became docile and quiet. The other unfortunate contretemps occurred in the afternoon. I peppered Captain F. in mistake for a teal ! " All's well that ends well," is a saying of much comfort, and, happily, from neither of these accidents did any serious results follow. 52 SPEEDWELL ISLAND. On the following morning, Thursday, December 8, we were under way at 5 a.m., in tow of the Swallow, bound for Speedwell Island, another of the group. On our way we passed the Star of Scotia, a barque which had been wrecked about three months previously. All her masts and spars were standing, and she looked as if she had really sustained no damage. The rocks were, however, I was told, sticking up through her keel. The crew deserted her when she struck, and went off in two boats. That commanded by the captain reached the shore in safety, but the one in charge of the mate was capsized, every man in her being drowned. She was laden with wheat, and after the wreck, was bought by Williams, of Stanley, for £25. We reached Speedwell Island at 2.30 P.M., and I went ashore with Captain F., where we were met on landing by Mr W., the manager of the Messrs C. These gentlemen rented the greater part of this island, in addition to Lively Island, which we had just visited, and here they had as many as 12,000 sheep on their farm. Some of bur party went for a couple of hours' shooting that same afternoon, and suc ceeded in bagging six and a half couple of snipe, fourteen rabbits, and three teal — not a bad result for so short a time. Leaving our yacht at anchor next day, we went on board the Swallow to a bay about six miles away, on the north west side of the island, where we were informed that we should have an excellent day's sport with rabbits. As soon as we landed, we perceived that the prospects which had been held out to us were likely to be realised, for at once we found ourselves in the presence of a vast quantity of rabbits, which were uncommonly tame. There was no cover of any kind, but the sport was redeemed from simple slaughter by the tufts of old tussac-grass, round which the rabbits con tinually dodged, thus rendering the shooting somewhat difficult. Notwithstanding this, with nine guns we had bagged 376 rabbits, six and a half couple of snipe, and four a penguin-rookery. 53 teal, when we left off shooting at four o'clock in the after noon. We returned to our anchorage off' the settlement, arriving there about 6.30 r.jr. The weather had been rough and boisterous all day, but it had not greatly interfered with the enjoyment of our sport. Next morning the sun shone brightly. The wind had gone down, and we had a lovely day. We went ashore at 10 a.m., in order to enjoy another day's shooting. Mr W. had kindly provided horses for us, and we rode off across the island in the direction of the bay, where we had landed the day before. The rabbits were again very plentiful ; but they were much wilder than those we had encountered before. Nevertheless we had very fair sport; our bag amounting to 150 rabbits, three and a half couple of snipe, two teal, and one widgeon. We saw a great number of silver-grey-coloured rabbits on this day, and in the course of our ride we came across al very remarkable penguin-rookery. From 3000 to 4000 birds, at the lowest estimate, were sitting on their nests, and they appeared greatly to resent our aiDproach. This was scarcely to be wondered at, for a shepherd informed us that the eggs were excellent eating, and that all the people in the settlement robbed the nests extensively. We did not taste the eggs ourselves ; but I see no reason why they should not be good, though probably they would be somewhat fishy and strong. The next day being Sunday, we went to service on board the Swallow at 10 a.m., several of the officers returning with us afterwards to lunch on board our yacht. In the after noon we walked to a " shag " rookery, and examined several of the young birds. They were curious, ugly little creatures, with skins perfectly black and as smooth as leather ; there were neither feathers nor down upon their bodies. Several of us were anxious to try another day's shooting over the same ground which we had traversed on the Saturday, and we therefore remained at Speedwell Island over Monday, 54 PIG-SHOOTING. December 12. On that day, with seven guns, we bagged 170 rabbits, ten couple of snipe, five teal, and two widgeon ; but we found the animals distinctly wilder, no doubt owing to the havoc which we had previously, wrought amongst them. Tuesday, Bee. 13. — We got under way at 8 a.m., and pro ceeded to yet another island leased by the Messrs C, which we reached in a couple of hours. This was called George Island, and our anchorage was named Owen Roads. Messrs C. had no live stock there when we visited it, but wild pigs were said to be very abundant. We landed in high spirits, in expectation of an exciting day's sport ; and our party looked uncommonly formidable, for we had several blue jackets with us armed with boarding-pikes. We soon came across traces of pigs in the long tussac-grass, which covered a considerable portion of the island ; but owing to its height, we experienced great difficulty in catching a sight of any of the animals. - Mr M., however, to whom I had lent my 10- bore rifle, got a snap shot at a pig, after we had been walking through the grass for some considerable time. The bullet struck the animal in the side, breaking five ribs and the spinal column, and coming out through the neck, just below the ear. It proved to be a huge black sow, bearing a marked resemblance to the ungainly hogs of inferior breed which are to be seen about the cottages in many parts of Ireland. There were none of the characteristics of a wild boar about it ; and probably these pigs, like the wild horses and cattle on the main island, are the remains of a domestic breed introduced by settlers in the eighteenth century. This was, unfortunately, the only pig which we secured ; and as the rain began to fall heavily after luncheon, and the afternoon gave every appearance of being excessively dis agreeable, we decided to give over shooting, and returned on board with nothing but that one sow and six and a half couple of snipe to show as the result of our day's sport. A A NATIVE MENU, 55 violent squall broke over us soon after our arrival on board, and for a time it seemed impossible that we should be able to keep an engagement which we had formed to dine with the captain of the Swallow, although the distance between our vessels was only 300 yards. However, we did manage at last to make the passage, with no more inconvenience than a thorough drenching, which made us feel uncommonly limp when we received the captain's greeting on the deck. How ever, a good dinner and plenty of champagne thoroughly revived our spirits, and by the time that we bade adieu to our friendly host, the weather had again become calm and pleasant. The menu of the dinner is worth recording ; for everything, except the entremets, had been procured upon the island. Here it is : — Goose Soup. Roast Hare. Salmi of Teal. Currant Puffs. Snipe-pie. Cheese. Our comrade the Swallow left early next morning for Port Darwin, the second settlement in the Falkland Islands. We remained behind for another day, being anxious to visit a sea-lion rookery which, as we had been informed, existed upon Barren Island, a short distance away from George Island. We started for the spot in the steam-launch ; but, unfortunately, the whole island was surrounded by a dense impenetrable mass of kelp, through which the propeller was unable to force its way. We were therefore compelled to give up the attempt, and returned to George Island, where I determined to try my luck once more at pig-shooting. I walked a long distance without meeting with any success, the only pig I met escaping my bullet by dodging behind a thick clump of tussac-grass. On my way back to the boat I shot three couple of snipe, and just as I was on the point of embarking, a large sea-lion showed its head above water. It dived immediately, but soon rose again to the surface, when 56 PORT DARWIN. I fired at it with my express rifle, striking it fairly in the head. It sank at once, but the water was covered with blood mingled with brains. We procured a harpoon from the yacht and lashed it to a spar. Using this as a drag, we groped for the body, and after a little while we succeeded in bringing it to the surface. It was a very large-sized sea- lioness, and her head had been completely shattered by my bullet. On opening her body we found in her stomach a stone weighing more than J lb. The following day we returned to Lively Island, but the passage was disagreeable in the extreme. Rain fell inces santly all day, and we had a strong wind dead ahead of us, with a nasty sea rolling ; in consequence of which, although we left our anchorage at 5 a.m., we did not reach our old quarters off Lively Island until seven o'clock in the evening. Fortunately we were favoured with better weather the next day, Friday, December 16 ; and, getting under way at 10 a.m., we proceeded up Choiseul Sound to Port Darwin. The passage through the Sound was somewhat intricate, and at a place fitly named the " Narrows," the opening was only a cable and a half wide. We arrived off Port Darwin and anchored alongside the Swallow at 2.30 p.m. Shortly after wards we went ashore, and visited the colony, which is next in importance to Stanley. It contained only eight houses, however, when we were there, in addition to a Free church and a school. The whole population did not exceed 100 in number, but the settlement looked clean and thriving. A doctor was stationed there, in the pay of the Falkland Islands Company. The beauty of the place was greatly enhanced by a quantity of yellow gorse surrounding it on all sides, and, at the time of our visit, in full bloom. We called on the doctor, and afterwards made arrangements with one of the Company's employes to go out after wild cattle on the fol lowing day. This expedition, to which I had looked forward with PROFITABLE SHEKP- FARMING. 57 some interest and anticipation, proved, unfortunately, a com plete failure ; for after 60 miles' ride over an exceedingly rough country, and on the most uncomfortable horses which I have ever bestrode, we failed even to find any traces of wild cattle. The shepherds had lately been collecting the sheep for shearing, and this was supposed to have frightened the cattle away. As a matter of fact, however, I believe that, though they were at one time very abundant, there are now very few of them left, they having been killed off to make way for the sheep. We saw several troops of wild horses — or rather of horses misnamed wild — which had been turned out some few years before by Mr Lafone and the Falk land Islands Company. The number of sheep in this district had multiplied enormously in the course of thirty years ; for whereas in 1855 there were but 55 altogether, in 1887 they amounted to over 150,000. The annual loss is computed at 12 per cent ; but notwithstanding this, the sheep-farming is profitable. At Goose Green, near the settlement, there were very large works on a complete scale, owned bythe Company, for the purpose of boiling down sheep for tallow. We visited these works next day ; but they were, unfortunately, not in operation at the time. There was also a mutton-freezing establishment belonging to the Company, who have shipped large consignments of frozen meat to England ; but the venture has not been found to pay. We left Port Darwin at 5.30 a.m. on Monday, December 19, arriving at our old berth off' Lively Island after three hours' sailing. Mr C, who had accompanied us from George Island, went with myself aboard the Swallow, in which we steamed across to Middle Island, where we shot some cattle which had been turned out by Mr C. a couple of years before. We found them very easy to approach, and shot six head, after which we skinned and cut them up, taking back with us as much beef as we could carry. Whilst we were lying off Port Darwin, some of the Swal- H 58 ANOTHER UNPLEASANT INCIDENT. low's officers had very fair sport in fishing, catching in one day fifteen dozen of trout, averaging about J lb. apiece. These fish resembled English trout in shape ; but they had neither scales nor spots, and their skins were like those of eels. They were remarkably sweet and pleasant to the taste. It was blowing a fresh breeze, with a considerable sea on, when we sailed from Lively Island on Wednesday, December 21, in order to return to our first quarters off Stanley. The wind, however, was behind us the greater part of the way, and we ran along at a spanking pace until we rounded Cape Pembroke. Then the wind headed us, and we had some difficulty in beating against it up to Stanley, where we arrived at mid-day. The governor and his family welcomed us back with friendly warmth when we went ashore in the afternoon. Little worthy of chronicling occurred during the next few days, which were mainly spent in preparations for Christmas Day. This festival occurred upon a Sunday ; and after going aboard the Swallow to offer and receive the greetings of the season, we attended church on shore, returning to H.M.S. at half -past twelve, in order to visit the sailors at their Christ mas dinner. We dined at Government House in the even ing, giving up the yacht's saloon to the officers and servants for the purpose of entertaining their friends. My Christmas enjoyment was marred by an unpleasant incident which awaited me on my return to the yacht. The boatswain, Wyllie, had drunk himself into a condition of savage ferocity, and had assaulted the second mate and sev eral of the crew. As he was not in a fit state that evening for the matter to be discussed, I waited until the following day, when I had him up ; and after hearing the correct version of the whole aff'air, I fined him 10s., and disrated him for three months. The day after that, the chief officer again had cause to complain of the conduct of Wyllie, and I therefore felt myself compelled to dismiss him from my service. These new-year's eve FESTIVITIES. 59 unpleasant episodes sadly mar the enjoyment of a voyage in one's private yacht ; but it is, I imagine, impossible to wholly guard against them, and discipline must be maintained at all hazards. Wyllie did not long remain without employ ment ; for he obtained a berth on board the Gene.sta, a local schooner belonging to the Falkland Islands Company, the clay following his discharge from my yacht. On Friday, December 30, the Kosmos Company's steamer Luxor arrived, homeward bound, and we despatched our mails to England. On New-Year's Eve we had a festive gathering on board the yacht after dinner. The men sang songs in turn, con cluding with a general chorus of "Auld Lang Syne" and " God save the Queen." The ship's bell was tolled at mid night, to usher out the Old Year and to welcome in the New. Thus ended 1887. Since leaving Plymouth we had sailed 8779 nautical miles, the total time spent at sea being eighty-two days and four hours ; so that we had run at an average rate of 107.06 knots per diem. ,60 CHAPTER VITI. new-year's day ANOTHER EXCURSION FOX BAY GREAT ISLAND RUGGLES ISLAND EXCITING SPORT A NASTY ACCIDENT A GRAND TROPHY H.M.S. FLAMINGO THE NEW SKIPPER FAREWELL TO THE FALKLAND ISLANDS AT SEA ONCE MORE THE STRAITS OP MAGELLAN GREGORY BAY. January 1-February 17, 1SS8. 1888. Jan. 1. — The New Year was ushered in by a short, sharp shower, after which we had a very pleasant day. It being Sunday, we went to service on board the Swallow at 10 A.M., after which we lunched at Government House. In the afternoon we visited the mission yacht Richard Williams, which was laid up close beside our vessel. She had been in disuse for some time, having been replaced by the Allan Gardner, and was in bad order through neglect. Nothing worthy of note occurred on the Monday ; but on Tuesday, January 3, we started in our yacht for Ruggles Island, another of the Falkland group, where we hoped to have some good sport with wild cattle. M., one of the officers of the Swallow, accompanied us. It was one of the loveliest days which we had since arriving at the Falkland Islands, when we weighed anchor. There had, however, been a strong wind the day before, and consequently we en countered a heavy head-sea as soon as we reached Cape Pembroke. By 11 a.m. the breeze had entirely died away, leaving us in a dead calm, which lasted throughout the rest FOX BAY. 61 of the day, although there continued to be a heavy swell, which caused the yacht to roll considerably. So little progress did we make in consequence, that by 9 p.m. we had not advanced 10 knots upon our way, having actually drifted astern during the last few hours. At that time, however, a nice breeze sprang up, and for the next three hours we went along at a very fair pace. Again the wind dropped away at midnight, and by nine o'clock next morning we were only abreast of Lively Island. Another beautiful day ensued ; but for sailing purposes the weather was bad, for a dead calm lasted till late in the afternoon, and we did not pass Bull Point, at the southern extremity of East Falk land Island, until 8 P.M. A great change took place about five o'clock next morning, when the wind commenced to blow, increasing in violence to a strong gale with a very heavy sea. The atmosphere also was exceedingly thick; and we therefore made for the nearest place of shelter, an inlet of the sea on the E. coast of West Falkland. The entrance to this inlet, which is called Fox Bay, we found somewhat intricate, with a dangerous reef and a small island in the midst. The force of the wind carried us into the bay at the rate of more than 12 knots an hour, and we were very thankful when we had passed safely through this perilous passage, and found our selves at anchor off a small settlement called North Arm. On each side of the bay we saw a house and wool-sheds; but the weather was too rough to permit of our landing. The Chance, a small yawl which carries the mails between the different islands, had, like us, put in to this port to escape the stress of weather. The wind continued to blow with great violence all day and through the greater part of the ensuing night ; but the morning of Friday, January 6, broke clear and fine ; and the sea had so far moderated that we got under way at 10 a.m., proceeding to Great Island, which we reached at half-past one. This island lies at the S. end of Falkland Sound, 62 RUGGLES ISLAND. between the two mainlands. We all went ashore to see Mr David Smith, the lessee of Ruggles Island, with whom we desired to make arrangements for our shooting cattle on the following day. On landing we were agreeably surprised to see his brother, Mr Christopher Smith, whom we had met at Port Darwin. Through the latter's introduction we were soon on friendly terms with the gentleman whom we had come to see, and who kindly offered to accompany us himself to Ruggles Island. Accordingly we re -embarked in less than an hour, taking in tow a small cutter containing two of Mr David Smith's men. We reached Ruggles Island about 3.30 a.m. on the morrow, but we did not land until ten o'clock. We found Chris topher Smith and Dr D. waiting for us, and we lost no time in setting forth upon our expedition. M. was armed with my 10-bore rifle, whilst I carried a 500-bore express. Dr D. and the carpenter had smooth-bores. We took with us three men from the yacht, and several shepherds belonging to the island also accompanied us. After walking for about two miles, we saw a small herd of cattle, which we immediately proceeded to stalk. We succeeded in getting within 150 yards of three fine bulls, one of which was quite black, the second black and white, and the third — an enormous animal — polled red. I fired at the black bull, hitting rather too far back. Though wounded, he started off with the others ; but M. immediately sent another bullet into him. This caused him to slacken pace ; but he still went on, though evidently with difficulty and in great pain. Presently he took refuge in some high tussac-grass about half a mile away. We followed hini, and on reaching the spot we tried to drive him out with dogs. As he refused to budge, M. and I went into the tussac-grass after him, tracing his whereabouts by the marks of blood which he had left behind him. After proceeding cautiously for a short distance I caught an indistinct view A NASTY ACCIDENT. 63 of him lying beneath a clump of tussac-grass, about 20 yards away from me. I fired both barrels into him behind the shoulder, M. at the same time discharging his rifle at him. He had now received five bullets, and we concluded that these must have finished him. To our astonishment he rose and prepared for action, glaring savagely at us, and evidently meditating mischief. ]\I. immediately fired his second barrel, wounding him again, and bringing him for a moment upon his knees. He was up again, however, like lightning, and charged directly at us. Our position was now perilous, for both our rifles were empty, and all we could do was to endeavour to dodge behind the clumps of tussac whilst we were reloading. The bull made at first for M., who succeeded in evading him. I, on the other hand, most unfortunately slipped and fell, and in a moment the in furiated beast was upon me. He drove his horn into the back of my thigh, hoisted me on to his head, carried me a few yards, and then tossed me backwards into the open air. Dr D. and the carpenter providentially came up at this critical juncture, and fired at the animal, who fell dead about 30 yards from the spot where I was lying. I found myself suffering considerable pain, and quite unable to move, my impression being at the time that my thigh-bone was broken. Dr D., however, made an examination of my wound, which was about 1^ inch deep, and he pronounced the bone to be uninjured, though many of the muscles were severely lacerated. An extempore stretcher was soon rigged up, and I was carried down to the shore, whence I was rowed off in a boat to the yacht. When they had got me safely on board Dr D. dressed and bandaged my wound, after which we weighed anchor as soon as possible, as I was anxious to return to Stanley without delay. Notwithstanding the pain which I was suffering and the excitement caused by my accident, I did not forget to bring off with me the head and hind-feet of the bull as a trophy. He was certainly a 64 H.M.S. FLAMINGO. magnificent animal of the true original breed, which had been upon the island for one hundred and thirty years. His neck was covered with long, thick, shaggy hair, and his whole frame indicated enormous strength. Ten bullets had been put into him before he finally succumbed. We were not destined to reach Stanley without delay, for the wind and sea got up to such an extent during the night, and on the next morning the weather was so thick and bad, that we were compelled to put back to Speedwell Island. We arrived and anchored about 2 P:M., and our friend Mr W. came on board, remaining with us to dinner. This was on Sunday, January 8, and on the Monday the weather had so greatly improved that we got under way at 6.50 a.m. As soon as we were clear of Eagle Passage, however, we encountered a nasty, rolling sea, which caused us considera ble inconvenience. Nevertheless we reached Stanley before half-past ten in the evening, and I lost no time in despatch ing a messenger for Dr H., for my wound was causing me some little annoyance. He made a thorough and careful examination, at the end of which he prescribed absolute rest, encouraging me with the assurance that the wound was not serious, and that if I kept myself quiet I should soon be all right again. We had returned just in time to bid farewell to our friends on board H.M.S. Swallow, who were under orders to sail for Monte Video on the following day, Tuesday, January 10, the ship having been relieved by H.M.S. Flamingo, which had arrived on the previous Thursday. Captain F. and the other officers came aboard to say adieu before weighing anchor ; and in the afternoon Captain B. and Mr J. of the Flamingo came to make my acquaintance. Throughout the day I was holding a continuous levee, as nearly every one in Stanley came off to see me, and to inquire about my wound. Dr H. was most attentive, dressing it both morning and evening ; as also he did for several succeeding days. ARRIVAL OP THE NEW SKIPPER. 65 The next three weeks were monotonous and wearisome, and there was absolutely nothing to chronicle during the remainder of the month, with the exception of a terrific thunderstorm on Wednesday January 11, in the midst of which our mainmast was struck by lightning. Fortunately it had been provided with a conductor, which saved it from destruction, but the crash was for the moment extremely alarming, and we all thought that the mast had fallen. On February 1 the Swallow returned from Monte Video, bringing with her our new sailing-master. He had come out from England by a Royal Mail steamer, and but for the kind ness of Captain F. he would have been obliged to wait at Monte Video for the next Kosmos boat, which was not due at Stanley until February 17. My new skipper, unfortu nately, was very unwell on his arrival, and the doctor advised him to go ashore and remain there a few days until his health was restored. The Bishop of the Falkland Islands also arrived on board the Swallow, and Captain F. brought his lordship to call upon me. The Rev. Mr B., chaplain at Stan ley, met with a serious accident the same day. A children's fete had just been held, and Mr B. was in the act of taking down some swings which had been erected for the fiie, when he fell heavily to the ground from the top bar of one of them, sustaining a compound fracture of the ankle. My wound was by this time virtually healed, but I had not as yet ventured ashore. I was anxious to do so, how ever, now, as there would be nothing to detain us longer at Stanley, as soon as the new sailing-master was fit for service, and I had several matters to settle before we left. The next three days, however, proved so boisterous and rough that it was almost impossible to communicate at all with the shore. A furious gale was raging the whole time, and we were even unable to send for coals or water, of both of which we were greatly in need. On Saturday, February 4, the weather began to moderate I 66 FAREWELL TO STANLEY. again, and the sailing-master came on board quite recovered from his illness. The next day was bright, calm, sunny, and warm ; and for the first time since my accident I went ashore, and called at Government House. Before returning to the yacht, I also visited the Swallow and the Flamingo, the officers of both which vessels had been, without exception, most kind and attentive to me. H.M.S. Ruby arrived that day, so that quite a large contingent of the British navy was gathered to gether in Stanley harbour. Our departure was delayed be yond our expectation, for another gale again broke out, last ing more or less for the next four days. We went ashore for the last time on Tuesday, February 7, to bid farewell to the governor and his family, and to make our final calls upon other residents in the place, intending fully to sail on the following day. Before going off to our yacht we attended a Christy Minstrel entertainment in the schoolroom, got up by the men of H.M.S. Flamingo. Friday, Feb. 10. — At last our prolonged stay at Stanley came to a close, the officers and men of the Swallow cheering us heartily as we passed them about 6 a.m. The Flamingo had left for Monte Video on the previous day. It was with mingled feelings that we gazed for the last time upon the little town and sheltered inlet that had been our home for the last three months. Though delighted at the prospect of once more putting out to the open sea, and experiencing a certain relief from what had been in some sense undoubtedly monotonous, we yet felt, one and all, a pang of regretful sor row in bidding farewell to a friendly and hospitable shore. The universal kindness which was shown to us, from the governor downwards, will cause us ever to bear in mind, with grateful recollection and affectionate interest, the spot where we saw the old year out and the new year in of 1887-88. < wo began to rain heavily and the sky became hazy. At three o'clock. 94 CONNOR COVE. much to our disappointment, the Celia bore up for Connor Cove, where she anchored, although the captain had informed me that he intended to get out to sea that day. This move was clearly an attempt to extort more money out of me, for when I went on board the Celia the captain coolly demanded £10 for detention, in addition to another £10 to take us on on the following day. This I immediately declined, offering however, to give him £5. This he refused, and I therefore English Narrows, Smyth's Channel, left him, determined once more to throw ourselves upon our own resources. At half-past four a large Italian man-of-war steamed into the bay. She was a modern, handsome-look ing corvette called the Flavio Gioia, and was bound from Valparaiso to Monte Video. I went on board to call on her captain, whom I found a most pleasant, courteous officer. He informed me that the weather outside was very bad, and that a very heavy sea was on in the Gulf of Penas. One of DEPRESSING WEATHER. 95 the officers of the man-of-war expressed his great surprise at my coming to such a part of the world for a pleasure-trip. " Venice or Naples," he said, " I can understand that ; but as for Magellan Straits ." He did not finish his sentence, but gave his shoulders a thoroughly Italian expressive shrug, leaving little doubt of what was passing in his mind. Tuesday, April 3, was a most disagreeable day, and we were compelled to remain in Connor Cove during the whole of that as well as the two following days. The Celia left at 7 A.M., and the Flavio Gioia an hour later, so that during the remainder of the time we were entirely alone. We saw many otters at different times during our stay in the cove, and one of the men killed a small one with a boat-stretcher on the shore. On one occasion I went to the head of the harbour with a gun, but found absolutely nothing to shoot, The country round the port was exceedingly pretty, the vegetation most luxuriant, and the trees very lofty. There were in particular a large variety of ferns, of which one species was especially beautiful, the frond being about six inclies long, and so delicate that it looked almost like lace. We cut down a good quantity of timber for firewood, also collecting a lot of driftwood, of which there was a great abundance. The wood was of excellent quality and burnt well, it was by far the best we had yet procured. The weather during the whole time was most depressing, rain falling without intermission from morning to night, and the wind blowing in nasty uneven gusts at intervals. No one on board seemed to desire ever to visit the Straits of Magellan again. The morning of Friday, April 6, broke with more prom ising weather, and as a light fair breeze was blowing we sailed at 6 A.M. Soon, however, the wind died away and we were becalmed for a' couple of hours. After this it again sprang up, and we went along at a fair pace of from two to five knots an hour until half-past three, when it finally 96 WATERFALL BAY. dropped to a dead calm. We were obliged to get the boats out and tow the ship about four miles to Waterfall Bay, where we arrived and anchored at 6 p.m. In this bay we were again compelled to lie at anchor for three days, owing to the unpropitious state of the weather. We were anchored nearly opposite the waterfall from which the bay takes its name. It was certainly a very fine cascade, especially during our visit, when it was swollen with rain. It was also very convenient for watering purposes, as a boat could be drawn immediately underneath it and filled. On Sunday, April 8, a terrific squall came suddenly on, and at 3.30 a.m. we commenced to drag. After drifting - about thirty or forty yards we brought up with the stream anchor in 60 fathoms. Previously we had been anchored in only 10 fathoms, so that the depth in the bay increased very rapidly. The wind had dropped soon afterwards, and we weighed anchor at 10.15 a.m., intending to try and get on our way. We had no sooner, however, got outside the bay than a dead calm once more came on, and after drifting .about all day we found ourselves about three miles astern, so that again we were compelled to get the boats out and tow the yacht back to Waterfall Bay. This operation was by no means pleasant, as it was pouring with rain the wliole time. On Monday, April 9, we again started, and after a most unequal day, during which the breeze sprang up and died away again constantly, we managed to get to Island Har bour, where we anchored at 5.30 p.m. The entrance to this port was very narrow, but when once we were inside we found a snug harbour where there were no dangers, and the hold ing-ground of which was good. Finlay says that an abun dance of fish are at times to be found in this harbour, and I therefore sent the dingy off shortly after our arrival; but the water everywhere proved to be too deep for the seine to be hauled. HALE COVE. 97 Another wretched day ensued, and we were compelled to remain at our anchorage. On Wednesday, April 11, though it was still blowing and raining hard, we determined to try and get on our way, as we were thoroughly disgusted at these constant delays. The wind at first was ahead of us, but soon became fair, and we arrived off Hale Cove at one o'clock. We were now but a short distance from the open sea, and had the weather looked at all favourable, we should have endeavoured to get out into the open. As, however, appearances were anything but promising, we thought it more prudent to put into the cove. On the whole, the harbour was good ; but the place is exposed to severe squalls, as the mountains rise to a great height perpendicularly from the water and tower over the port. The lifeboat went out with the seine in the after noon, and returned with about eight dozen fine mullet and five peccaray. We were detained in Hale Cove for the next five days. It was most tantalising to be so near the open sea without being able to reach it. At first we were prevented from starting through the entire absence of wind, and afterwards owing to a terrific gale, accompanied with torrents of rain, which lasted for several days. During our stay in Hale Cove we managed to secure a very large quantity of fish, chiefiy mullet, though we also obtained a species of small cod. When I had an opportunity of landing I was much struck with the vegetation. This appeared to me to be of a far more luxuriant character than any I had hitherto seen in these parts. The ferns especially were most magnificent. The handsome tree-fern with dark-green fronds attracted my especial attention, and I was also much struck with another fern somewhat resembling the bracken, the frond of which measured from six to twelve feet in length, the stems of some being as thick as a man's thumb. I tried to penetrate inland, but was prevented from getting far on N 98 FIRST GLIMPSE OP THE PACIFIC. account of the dense undergrowth. The ground was thickly carpeted with moss and lichens, and many large trees were lying about where they had been overthrown by the tem pests. The whole place appeared to me a magnificent virgin forest, through which ran two fine streams of pure fresh water. Sunday, April 15, the weather became somewhat finer, but there was no wind, and we were therefore unable to make a start. After lunch I walked to the top of a hill about 1500 feet high. I had a rough and difficult scramble up through the dense vegetation, but on arriving at the summit I was rewarded with a grand view, in which I obtained on this occasion my first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. On the following Tuesday we were cheered by the prospect of really favourable weather ; the sky was almost cloudless, the sun was shining brightly, there was no appearance of rain, and the wind was fair. We sailed at 9 A.M., and for some little time all went well. But at two o'clock the breeze again died away, and we lay becalmed off Sombrero Island for two hours. It then sprang up again for a short time and again dropped. Just after sunset, however, a fine breeze at length got up, and enabled us finally to get clear of the Straits, and once more to be on the open sea. Altogether we had been sixty-three days passing through the Magellan Straits and Smyth's Channel, and had been obliged to anchor in tveenty-five different harbours. Lovely though the scenery had been in many parts, we were all heartily tired of our last two months' experience, and our first evening on the open sea was hailed with un bounded delight by all on board. We now headed our course for Juan Fernandez, which lay nearly 800 miles to the north. Little occurred during the next few days, but on the whole we were favoured with a fair wind. During Wednesday, April 18, we ran for a great part of A DEAD WHALE. 99 the time nearly ten knots an hour, a most pleasant change after the Straits. Next day, however, the wind veered round right in our teeth, and we were obliged to make long tacks. Friday, April 20, was a thoroughly disagreeable day, the wind being still ahead and a heavy swell causing us to roll and pitch considerably; rain also fell very heavily with scarcely any intermission. Saturday was on the whole a fine day, the sun shining brightly and the air being much milder ; the wind was light and on the whole favourable, but the sea still ran high and there was an incessant roll on all day. We were obliged to run a good way off our course, and consequently made com paratively little headway towards our destination. On Monday, April 23, considerable excitement was caused in the morning by our sighting a large white object, which at first appeared to be a vessel bottom upwards. On ap proaching it, however, we found that it was a carcass of a dead whale blown out by gas to an enormous size. It ap peared to me that very probably objects such as this have frequently been mistaken for rocks and small islands in the sea, and many such which have been reported in the South Pacific, and of which no trace has afterwards been found, may have owed their origin to some such cause. Nothing worthy of note occurred during the next few days, except that on Tuesday, April 26, we lost our patent log, owing to its getting foul of the keel in tacking, and of the line parting in our endeavours to get it clear. Fortu nately we were provided with another, so that the loss was of comparatively little importance. As we advanced north wards the weather became perceptibly warmer, and at inter vals there was a good deal of sheet-lightning. The sea con tinued for the most part very heavy, though the weather on the whole was far better than that which we had experi enced during the last three months. The tremendous swell 100 UTILITY OP OIL IN HEAVY SEAS. seemed strange and unaccountable, and no one on board could give any reason for it. On Tuesday, May 1, we were only 78 miles from Juan Fernandez when we took our observations at noon. A fine breeze sent us along all day at the rate of about five knots, and we fully hoped to reach our destination early on the following morning. At two o'clock in the middle of the night, however, a strong gale sprang up and raised a mountainous sea in which the ship laboured terribly. We were unable to get the storm-trysail up, as the yacht would have fallen off if we had lowered the mainsail. We therefore hove to under close-reefed balanced mainsail and double-reefed staysail. Bad as had been the weather to which we had become accus tomed, this day was in my opinion the worst we had had since leaving England. So heavy had become the sea, that at 11 A.M. we hung bags of oil over the side to prevent the seas breaking on board. It was the first time that we had seen this experiment tried, and there is no doubt whatever that it is of the greatest utility. We had sighted the island at 9 A.M., and as we got under the lee of the land the sea became less heavy, but the squalls were terrific in their violence, and more than once the ship was almost thrown on her beam-ends. Unfortunately we mistook the position of the harbour, and it was not till we were abreast of Santa Clara Island that we discovered our mistake. We were obliged to return, and by this time the wind had almost fallen to a calm, so that we found it difficult to make our way back. However, we arrived off the harbour at 5 P.M. that evening and beat in against the wind. We anchored in Cumberland Bay just after sunset. We had been eighty-two days out since leaving Stanley, and were delighted at the chance of getting some fresh pro visions once a.gain. Some men came off and boarded us, and JUAN FERNANDEZ. 101 a light was exhibited on shore. The island as seen from the sea is very lofty and precipitous, the cliffs being much indented by the action of the water. But from Finlay's description I had been led to expect something far more striking and picturesque than was the appearance actually presented by the island as we approached it. 102 CHAPTER XII. JUAN FERNANDEZ — ABQNDANT SUPPLY OF FISH WILD-GOAT SHOOT ING — ALEXANDER SELKIRK ON OUR VOYAGE AGAIN OUT OF OUR RECKONING MOLLENDO ARRANGEMENTS FOR A TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR OP PERU. May 2-18, 1888. Juan Fernandez is an island leased by the Chilian Govern ment to a German, who was living, however, at Valparaiso at the time of our visit. The settlement was very small, con sisting of about a dozen houses and a few sheds. The popu lation amounted to about fifty or sixty people, including women and children. From what I could see they appeared to lead a remarkably easy life. All the houses had gardens attached to them, in which were grown many kinds of vege tables, and every one had a considerable number of cattle, besides horses, mules, and abundance of poultry. No corn or other crops are grown, as the nature of the ground does not admit of them. There are six caves on a considerable rise, standing above the settlement. They appear to be artificial, or at any rate have been artificially enlarged, and were originally intended for storehouses, though at present they are unused. The old Spanish fort of San Juan Baptista, which overlooks the bay, was in a very ruinous condition. The walls were rapidly crumbling to pieces, and there was only one bastion remaining, besides a few guns lying dismantled ABUNDANT SUPPLES OF FISH. 103 on the beach. I visited the graveyard, where a seaman of H.]\I.S. Repulse is buried, and I was agreeably surprised to note the tidy manner in which the little place is kept. The people belonging to the settlement were extremely obliging, and evidently anxious to show us every attention in their power. Not many ships call at the island, and the arrival of our yacht was therefore rather an event to them. In the afternoon I went in the dingy to fish in English Bay, and in a very short time I caught five cod weighing from eight to thirty pounds apiece. They appeared to be of a different species from the cod which we get in England, but they proved none the less excellent for eating. The bay is simply alive with fish, chiefly a sort of bonita, any number of which can be caught as fast as they can be hauled in. We also got some bream. The island is thirteen miles long by four miles broad, and it was discovered by the Spaniard whose name it bears in 1563. Up to the time of the Spanish occupation in 1750, Juan Fernandez was a great resort for buccaneers. After the independence of Chili it was used by that nation as a convict settlement from 1819 to 1835, when it was abandoned on account of expense. During the wars between England and Spain in the last century it was greatly used as a rendezvous by British men-of-war who were employed in harassing the Spanish commerce in the Pacific. But Juan Fernandez is better known as the residence of Alexander Selkirk, who is supposed to have been the original from whom Defoe drew his celebrated picture of Robinson Crusoe. The island is tolerably lofty, the highest peak being 3000 feet above the level of the sea. It is called the Yunque, from its supposed resemblance to an anvil. For several hundred feet above the sea the island seems in most parts to be quite bare, but above this it is thickly wooded with trees which seem to be of great size. 104 LUXURIANT VEGETATION. On Friday, May 4, we started on horseback at 10 a.m. to climb the hills in search of wild goats. From the very out set the paths were exceedingly steep, but when we got into the woods they became absolutely impracticable for horses. The track was narrow in the extreme, and the ground was a sticky clay, whilst great boulders occurred at frequent inter vals, and the path was as nearly perpendicular as a path could possibly be. The horses were continually slipping down although we were on foot leading them ; ' and as I found that at the rate at which we were going we should not reach our shooting-ground till after nightfall, I decided to return. The vegetation in the woods as we passed through was most luxuriant, the undergrowth being very dense and the trees of large proportions. Myrtles were especially numerous and large, and there were many wild fruit-trees, — peaches and plums seemed the most abundant, and enormous quantities of strawberry plants covered the ground, the leaves of the latter being quite as large as those in English gardens. The plants and fruit-trees are supposed to have been originally set by the buccaneers, who formerly frequented the island. As at Hale Cove, I found the ferns here of great variety and wondrous beauty, and I noticed the same large bracken I had seen there. After lunch on board the yacht, we rowed round in the dingy to try and shoot some pigeons, which abounded in enormous quantities in the cliffs. They were the common blue-rocks, but were so extremely wild that I only succeeded in shooting one. That one, moreover, I lest, as it fell into the water and was carried by the surf into a cave, into which it was impossible to take the boat. The following day I started in the launch with the dingy in tow, taking with me three men from the settlement and three dogs. -Our destination was Santa Clara Island, and our object was sport after wild goats. We steamed along under the cliffs close inshore, and about an hour after leaving the yacht we saw ALEXANDER SELKIRK. 105 large numbers of goats scrambling about the precipices. We fired several shots at them at a distance of about 250 yards, and killed two. One, however, fell on a ledge, from which we were unable to recover it ; the other fell into the sea, and we picked it up. It was a very small animal, with insignificant horns. Having gone on some distance, we landed two men with their dogs, giving them instrtictions to ascend the cliffs by a precipitous path, for the purpose of driving the goats within shooting range. Several came within range, but unfortunately the boat was rolling so heavily that it was impossible to get a steady aim. As the swell continued to increase and the boat laboured consider ably, we decided to return to the yacht. On our way back we landed in English Bay, and saw the cave in which Alexander Selkirk is said to have lived. Whether the story was true or not I am unable to say, but there is no doubt whatever that the cave has been used as a dwelling-place. A fireplace and cupboards have been hollowed out in the sides, and there were other evident tokens of a former habi tation. At the top of one of the steepest hills, which is said to have been his look-out station, stands a monument erected to his memory, and bearing the following inscription : — "In Memory of ALEXANDER SELKIRK, A native of Largo, in the county of Fife, Scotland, who was on. this island for four years and four months. He was landed from the Cinque Ports galley, 96 tons, 16 guns, a.d. 1704, and was taken off by the Duke privateer, 12th February 1709. He died Lieutenant of H.jM.S. Wey mouth, A.D. 1723, aged 47 years. " This tablet is erected near Selkirk's look-out by Com mander Powell and the officers of H.M.S. Topaz, 1868." The communication between Juan Fernandez and Valpa raiso is very irregular, and when I went ashore to settle up 0 106 ON OUR VOYAGE AGAIN. the bills the day before leaving, I found the people were anxious to be paid in goods rather than money, as no vessel had been there for a long time, and they had run out of various articles. Unfortunately our own supplies had be come very limited, and we were therefore unable to comply with their request. We found, however, that their prices for meat, poultry, and vegetables were very reasonable. I noticed on the island several pretty little birds, re sembling humming-birds, of beautiful plumage. There are, I believe, four species of birds quite peculiar to the island. Besides wild goats, of which I have already spoken, the other wild animals are cats and dogs. The latter are a kind of mastiff, and are descended from some which were turned loose by the Spanish for the purpose of keeping down the goats. These latter appear to have been at one time much more numerous than they are now. A few fur-seals are occasionally to be found on the shore, though they are more numerous on Mas a Fuera, the other island of the group. Juan Fernandez is also celebrated for cray-fish, which are of a large size and excellent flavour. We obtained some of them before leaving. We were very short of flour and biscuits, and just as we were about to weigh anchor previous to leaving we sighted a vessel apparently making for the harbour. We therefore decided to await her arrival in order to obtain some from her. To our great disappointment, after coming close in, she bore away again. The delay in waiting for the vessel ran us close to sunset, and as the weather looked very dirty we decided to postpone our departure till the next morning. Charles Schroeder, A.B., refused to work any longer as there was no flour. I therefore paid him off at his own request, and put him ashore. The morning of Tuesday the 8th May we at length started again upon our course, the weather being beautiful and the breeze strong and fair. The people from the shore came off OUT OF OUR RECKONING. 107 in their whale-boat to bid us farewell and .speed us on our way. I must confess to a feeling of considerable disappoint ment with regard to Juan Fernandez, which did not in any way come up to the expectation we had been led to form of it from the high-flown description which is quoted by Finlay. Our next destination was Mollendo, 1000 miles N. by E. of Juan Fernandez. A beautiful fair breeze sent us along during the next few days at the rate of at least nine knots an hour. On the third day out from Juan Fernandez we got into the S.E. trades, which helped us along consider ably. The weather, though fine, was almost continually dull; and the sun was generally so obscured that we ex perienced the greatest difficulty in taking satisfactory obser vations for latitude and longitude. This, I am informed, is the usual state of the atmosphere off the coast of Peru. At 2 P.M. on Monday, May 14, we sighted land, and soon afterwards made out a very lofty mountain, the summit of which was covered with snow. As far as we could calcu late, it appeared to be the Misti, which rises at the back of Arequipa. Next morning we found ourselves, so far as we could make out, off Cornejo Point, for it was most difficult to identify the landmarks. During the whole of the morning the air was almost a dead calm, but about two o'clock a light breeze sprang up. We then steered for some islands which we calculated to be those mentioned in Finlay's ' Sailing Directions ' as lying off Islay Point. The darkness came on before we could reach them, and we therefore stood off from the land and hove to for the night. At daybreak on Wednesday, May 16, we sighted what we imagined to be Islay Point. We ran down close to it, but after careful examination we could not in the least reconcile it with the description given in Finlay of that place. After lingering about for some time, uncertain where 108 MOLLENDO. we were or what to do, the sky fortunately became clear enough for us to obtain a good observation. To our un speakable disgust we found that we were only off Coles Point, 66 miles south of Mollendo. There was, however, nothing to be done but to go back, which we accordingly did. We had a light breeze all the afternoon, but it died away in the evening. By ten o'clock at night we had done 30 miles out of the 56. Next morning we found ourselves off Tambo Valley, where we had been two days before without knowing it. Shortly afterwards we sighted Mollendo, but there was no wind, and we were compelled to drift along with the current. A P.S.N. Company's steamer passed us at one o'clock bound for the port, and at 3.30 p.m. the health-boat came off and gave us pratique. The captain of the port was an exceedingly polite man, but he could not at first make out what we were, having never before seen a yacht. We were the first that had ever visited Mollendo. At 4.30 P.M. we anchored, having wasted two whole days in search of the place. Soon afterwards we went ashore in the health -boat, and landed alongside the wooden pier. A very heavy surf rolls into the roadstead, and landing is at the best of times very difficult, frequently it is quite impracticable. The town of Mollendo is a wretched place, and had suffered severely during the late war between Chili and Peru. The railway terminus, which had formerly been a handsome building, had been burned down by the Chilians, and the town mercilessly bombarded. The action of the Chilians was scandalous and inexcusable, as the town was totally defenceless, and no attempt at opposition had been made. The captain of the port introduced us to an English gentleman, Mr S., who, together with his mother, lives here in a very nice house. We were also introduced to Mr R., LACK OP LIGHTHOUSES IN PERU. 109 the British Vice-Consul, to the captain of a Peruvian trans port, and to one or two of the inhabitants of the place. Everybody was kind in the extreme, and offered to do any thing for us. The lifeboat came in at six o'clock, but the surf was so heavy that I was afraid lest she should be stove in against the steps ; I therefore sent her back to the yacht, and put up myself for the night at the Hotel del Ferro Carril. The hotel was considerably better than I could have expected to find in such a place ; the rooms were clean and the cooking very fair. Mr R. dined with me, and gave me a good deal of information about the country. The railway from Mollendo to Puno, as appears from what he told me, had been recently seized by the Peruvian Government, though owned and worked by an American Company. In consequence of this a great deal of diplomatic correspondence was then going on upon the subject, and it was feared that some little trouble and complication might ensue. It was generally believed that the Peruvian Government had done this as a preliminary step to handing over the railways and mines to the bondholders. There was no light on the mole, nor a steam-tug belonging to the port, though in Fin lay's ' Sailing Directions ' it is said that there are both. The whole Peruvian coast is almost destitute of lights, which is an unpardonable scandal in a nation professing to call itself civilised. At half-past six on the following morning, Friday, May 18, I visited the market, which is held near the church. There was, however, nothing of interest to be seen there, and little was exhibited for sale except meat and vegetables. After breakfast at the hotel I went off to the yacht, the captain of the transport kindly giving me a passage in his boat. In the afternoon I returned on shore, and after calling with Mr R. on Mr. S. and his mother, we walked to a garden at the back of the town which is considered by the inhabitants of Mollendo to be a most beautiful spot. To my 110 ARRANGEMENTS FOR A TRIP. eyes it seemed but a poor little place, though it was doubt less a boon to the town, as it appeared to be the only green spot about it. It possessed a bowling alley which seemed to be extensively patronised. I slept at the hotel again that night, after having dined with Mr R. and made arrange ments for starting early next morning for a trip into the interior. Ill CHAPTER XIIL THE RAILWAY PROM MOLLENDO TO AREQUIPA^WONDERPDL ENGI NEERING AREQUIPA PUNO LAKE TITICACA INCA REMAINS BOLIVIA LA PAZ — OBRASES. May 19-28, 1888. On Saturday, May 19, we left Mollendo by the 7.30 a.m. train for Arequipa. There were only two passenger carriages on the train, one first and one second class, both of them American cars. The line follows the coast for a distance of 14 miles to Ensenada, from which point it commences to as cend, the gradient being 1000 feet in five miles. Here the station of Tambo is reached, and the line continues gradually to ascend until it reaches Cachendo, which is 3250 feet above the sea. The engineering of this part of the line is really wonderful. In many places the track is cut in the side of the precipice, and from the carriage-window one can see a sheer descent of hundreds of feet, along which the track winds up which one has just ascended. There was a halt of half an hour at Cachendo, and then we traversed a dreary sandy plain until we reached a station called Vitor. The line then again began to ascend a very steep gradient, up which the engine had the greatest difficulty to draw the train. The latter was fitted with exceedingly powerful brakes, and twice during the ascent we had to stop in order to allow the engine to get up sufficient steam. At Quishuarani we found our- 112 AREQUIPA. selves 6125 feet above the sea, and from this point the scenery became magnificent in the extreme. Far down beneath lay a valley, through which meandered a rapid stream with green trees, and wide plantations on either side afforded a great contrast to the barren rock and sand through which we ourselves were passing. As we approached Are quipa, this desert country gradually gave way to highly cul tivated land, and for the last 10 miles of our journey we passed through a succession of fruitful orchards. We reached Arequipa at 4 p.m., having taken 8J hours to accomplish the 107 miles from Mollendo. We drove to the Hotel Central, which we found a very comfortable establish ment, the landlord of which was a Frenchman. Arequipa is situated amidst most picturesque scenery. It stands on a plain at the foot of the Misti Volcano, which rises 18,650 feet above the sea, whilst on either side are the magnificent peaks of Charchani and Pichupichu, the former of which is 19,000 feet and the latter 17,800 feet high. The town itself is situated at a level of 7550 feet above the sea, in consequence of which these splendid mountains, stupendous though they are, do not give the spectator the appearance of being as high as they really are. A little snow lay on their summits, but consider ing their height it seems surprising that there was not more. After a short stroll, in which we could see nothing because it had already become dark, we spent the evening in con versation with the proprietor of the hotel, who gave us a most doleful account of the state of the country. According to his expression Peru was simply un pays perdu. The following morning was a Sunday, and I confined myself to strolling leisurely about the town. I found Are quipa an old-fashioned Spanish place, which seemed to carry me back some centuries. The houses were low and very massively built, in order to stand the shocks of earthquakes which are of such frequent occurrence here. At least once a month shocks are felt, though as a rule they are not severe. FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 113 The last really bad earthquake took place in 1868, when an immense amount of damage was done, and many lives were lost. Several of the churches and other buildings still bore witness to its effects when I visited them. The principal Plaza is of very large extent, with a garden in the centre. On one side is the cathedral, an enormous modern building with two lofty campaniles, but plain and uninviting in ap pearance. The other three sides of the Plaza are surrounded by covered arcades, in which are shops of a poor and mean description. I was struck by the number of churches in the city, several of which dated from a short time after the Con quest of Peru. Most of them were adorned on the outside by fine stone carvings. Down all the streets run aqueducts of water, which impart to the town an appearance of clean liness. The impression thus produced, however, decidedly fades away as one becomes better acquainted with the city. Tramways are laid through the principal streets, but the public cars run only on Sundays and feast-days. If one requires to use the tramways on any other days, one is obliged to hire a special car. Rows of gas-lamps were to be seen down the principal streets and round the Plaza, but owing to the want of coal they were not in use when I was there. The atmosphere of Arequipa is wonderfully clear, and the stars at night shone with the utmost brilliancy. This no doubt was owing to the height of the city above the sea, and for the same reason I found that the temperature was con siderably colder than at Mollendo, especially in the even ing. In the middle of the day the sun was exceedingly hot, and cases of sunstroke are frequent. After dinner in the evening I went out on to the Plaza to hear the military band. All the dlite of Arequipa were congregated in the square, but I could not say that I was much impressed by the scene. In former years a considerable amount of com merce was carried on between Arequipa and England, and p 114 VISIT TO CATHEDRAL. there were still several English houses of business there. Trade, however, was almost at a standstill, apparently owing to the unsettled state of the country, and partly owing to the recent epidemic of cholera which had been raging in Chili, in consequence of which all the ports had been sub jected to a rigid quarantine. The population of Arequipa was about 25,000, of which number about twenty or thirty were English. On Monday morning, directly after breakfast, I called on the British Vice-Consul, Mr H., to whom I had a letter of introduction. Through his kindness I was enabled to read a budget of English newspapers, which afforded me a great treat, as I had seen no English news for some months. After lunch my little French landlord, who was a chatty and pleasant companion, took me to a garden on the out skirts of the town across a lofty old-fashioned bridge. The garden itself was not worth the trouble of visiting, but from it we obtained a magnificent bird's-eye view of the town. In the evening T was admitted as a visitor to the European Club, which is a comfortable and flourishing institution supported by the European residents, and provided with an English billiard-table and a good stock of newspapers. Tuesday morning we devoted to a visit to the cathedral, the interior of which is of immense size. It is very bare and plain, and the only real object of interest in it was the pulpit, which was made of wood elaborately carved, and of native work of Arequipa. A curious custom prevails amongst the churches of Peru ; ladies are strictly forbidden to wear bonnets or hats, and they are compelled to attend Mass in black dresses. After inspecting the cathedral I paid another visit to the Vice- Consul, from whom I received a letter of introduction to a German firm at La Paz, whither I intended to proceed on my departure from Arequipa. Next morning we started for Puno, having bid adieu to our VIEW ON OROYA RAILWAY, PERU. GREAT ELEVATION OF RAILWAY. 115 hospitable landlord, whose charges we found exceedingly reasonable. We were obhgcd to rise early, for our train left at 6.45 A.M. There was nothing remarkable about the scenery during the first part of the journey, but we still continued to ascend by a winding and steep though gradual gradient. A halt was made for breakfast at the station of Pampa de Arrieros, where we found a very decent little roadside inn. After half an hour's delay we continued our journey, and after some distance we reached the highest point of the line, Crucero Alto, which stands 14,666 feet above the sea. This is, I believe, the greatest height ever yet attained by a railway, though the line which was being constructed to Oroya, when completed, would exceed it. The air was extremely keen at this great height from the sea, and some of the passengers suffered from a peculiar affection caused by the rarefied atmosphere, and known by the name of sorocM, The symptoms are violent headache, nausea, and bleeding from the nose, and people not unfrequently die from its effects, which, however, were more severe in former times when long mountain journeys had to be made on mules. After Crucero Alto the line began to descend, and the scenery became much more interesting. Between two stations, called respectively Lagunillas and Santa Lucia, we passed between two lakes, called Sarachocha and Cachi- pascana. The line winds for a long time round their shores, and fresh views of them are afforded at every minute. In this neighbourhood we saw great numbers of vicunas, llamas, and alpacos. The two latter animals are domes ticated. The llama is used as a beast of burden, being capable of carrying about 120 pounds. The alpaco is kept entirely for its wool, the export of which is one of the principal sources of income to the country. After leaving the station of Lagunillas, the line ran along a flat table-land well cultivated, and watered by a river running through the midst of it. The scenery here reminded me very much of 116 PUNO — LAKE TITICACA. some parts of the Scottish Highlands. The station before Puno is called Juliaca, and here is a junction for Cuzco. Several Indian women were on the platform at this station trying to sell various articles woven from vicuna wool. We reached Puno at half-past seven in the evening, and I put up at the Hotel Lafayette, a wretched dirty inn, but the only one in the place. Puno lies on the shores of Lake Titicaca, 12,505 feet above the sea. The construction of the railway from Mollendo to this town was undertaken by an American engineer of the name of Meiggs. It was com menced in 1868, and completed in 1875. The total length of the line is 335 miles ; the steepest gradients are about 1 in 22. There are only three bridges on the whole line, the longest of which is 1600 feet in length, and the highest 175 feet in height. The former is crossed just before reach ing Arequipa. There is only one tunnel, and that very short. First-class fare from Mollendo to Arequipa was 8 solis, equal to £1, 3s., and from Arequipa to Puno 18 solis, or £2, 12s. 6d. Next morning, Thursday, May 24, we embarked on board a steamer on Lake Titicaca, and we left Puno at 9 a.m. There were two steamers on the lake, which had been running for the last eighteen years. They were about 90 tons burden each, and were originally intended for gunboats. They had been constructed in England, sent out in pieces, and brought up on the backs of mules from Arica. By the time they reached the lake they are said to have cost the Peruvian Government their weight in silver. The steamer on which we found ourselves was comfortable and well kept. The cabins, though small, were neat and clean, and the food was abundant and excellent. The ship travelled at a pace not exceeding six knots an hour, owing to the scarcity and expense of coal. The engineer informed me that they were then using as fuel dried llama-dung, which made a hot fire and kept steam well. There was no unpleasant smell con- MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. 117 nected with its use. In the neighbourhood of Puno the lake is very shallow and overgrown with rushes, through which a narrow channel has been cut, and its passage marked by buoys. The navigation through it is intricate, but once clear of this there was plenty of water, which in some places was very deep. All the way across the lake the scenery was most magnificent — numerous islands, beautifully wooded, and dotted about the surface and all around were ranges of snow-clad mountains. Amongst these the most conspicuous Indian balsas, lake Titicaca, Peru. peaks were those of Sorata, 24,812 feet high, and Illimani, 21,143 feet high. The former is the highest mountain in America, and, so far as is known at present, it is the tenth highest in the world. At 7 p.m. we passed Titicaca Island, whence, according to tradition, came the founder of the Inca empire. This island was the most sacred of all the places in Peru, and Prescott tells us that portions of the crops grown upon it were distributed to every granary throughout the kingdom. Numerous ruins of Inca buildings still remain 118 BOLIVIA. upon the island, but unfortunately it was too dark for us to distinguish them. The Indians sail upon the lake in a very curious boat called a balsct. It is entirely constructed of reeds, with a square sail of the same material. In these frail barks they go from one end of the lake to the other, a distance of 120 miles. Like most inland lakes, the navigation is at times dangerous, owing to sudden squalls coming down unexpectedly from the gorges in the mountain-sides. When I crossed the lake, however, it was perfectly smooth ; and during the day, whilst the sun was shining, the air was pleasant and warm. After sunset the atmosphere became decidedly cold, and it was necessary to put on a greatcoat ; indeed, when we started from Puno in the morning several pools of water around the lake had been quite frozen over. We arrived off Chililaya at 1.45 a.m., having come a distance of 99 miles, the charge for which was 16 solis, or £2, 6s., including food. We anchored and waited for daylight before entering the port. At 6 a.m. we reached the pier. We were now in the country of Bolivia, and our luggage was taken to the custom-house, and every single article was rigidly examined. We left Chililaya in a diligence, which was a heavy lumbering vehicle, holding ten inside and five out, and drawn by eight horses, two abreast. I occupied the box-seat next the driver. The road was rough, and in parts paved with round stones ; on the whole, however, it was level, and by no means bad. Until within about three miles of La Paz the country appeared to be well cultivated, the principal crops being barley and potatoes. Several farmyards that we passed had magnificent stacks of the former. At half -past nine we halted for half an hour for breakfast and to change horses. The scenery was very fine throughout the whole journey, the road passing along the base of the snowy range which we had seen from the steamer the day before. The sun was very hot, but the air was intensely cold in the shade, and most of the pools of water which we passed were LA PAZ. 119 frozen over. Large patches of snow lay here and there along the side of the road. Shortly after two o'clock in the afternoon we reached the top of the hill overlooking La Paz, and we were rewarded by a beautiful view. The situation of the town was indeed most picturesque. It lay in a deep valley 1800 feet immediately beneath, and was surrounded by rocky mountains, with the majestic Illimani towering above it. The road down to the town was exceedingly steep and winding, with very sharp turns. The driver, however, took the coach down at a hand-canter, and managed his team of eight horses with wonderful dex terity. We had been recommended to the Hotel Central, which was kept by a Frenchman, and was said to be the best in the town. It was situated in the Plaza, and was at one time the residence of the President of the Republic. We were, however, by no means satisfied with the accom modation which we received there, for the cooking was very second-rate, and the apartments far from clean. Whilst dinner was being prepared I went for a short stroll in the town, visiting the market-place, where apparently every conceivable article was exposed for sale. The stall- keepers were all Indian women dressed in the costume of the country, and with big broad-brimmed hats on their heads. They were dark, coarse-featured creatures, and as plain as one could imagine. The principal articles for sale were caps, mittens, &c., made from vicuna wool. Saturday, May 26, was a most lovely day. We spent the morning in exploring the town accompanied by the proprie tor of the hotel. The streets, as a rule, were narrow, extremely steep, and paved with round stones. A few of the principal ones had side pavements for foot-passengers. Owing to the exceedingly high position of the city, the air is so rarefied that strangers find it difficult and unpleasant to ascend steep streets, and are frequently obliged to stop to catch their breath. we again visited the market-place, where there was a fine 120 A BOLIVIAN REGIMENT. show of fruit, and I purchased as a memento of La Paz a curious belt worked in gaudy colours by the Indian women. We afterwards went to the Alameda, which consisted of three parallel walks with fruit-trees planted in rows between them. In the middle was a large and ancient fountain of marble. Seats were arranged all along the walks. Near the fountain was the head of an Inca statue about four feet high, and of the rudest workmanship. Isolated though the position of La Paz is, I was astonished to see the signs of progress which it exhibited; telephones were in general use throughout the town, and the electric light was being introduced while I was there. It is a large city, with a population of more than 45,000, three-quarters of whom were Indians. An infantry regiment was quartered there at the time of my visit ; this was an unusual circum stance, as I was informed, for, as a general rule, troops are stationed in the more remote villages in order to prevent the soldiers being tampered with by the political parties in opposition to the Government. This has been found nec essary owing to the frequent revolutions which have been effected in Bolivia by military coups d'etat. I went to see the regiment parade before proceeding upon a march. I was by no means prepossessed by their appearance, neither offi cers nor soldiers seeming to me to be smart and up to their work. The uniform consisted of crimson trousers, and a sort of yellow hussar tunic. Instead of boots they wore sandals. The one thing good about the regiment was its band, which appeared to play the whole day long ; and as the barracks were immediately opposite the hotel, we had the full benefit of their music. There are not above eighty Europeans altogether in La Paz, of whom only six are English ; of the remainder the majority are Germans. Sucre is the nominal capital of Bolivia, but La Paz is really the only town of importance in the country. All the foreign representatives reside there. SUNDAY MARKET. 121 Sucre being little more than a village, and being reached only after a long and fatiguing journey by coach. Every European nation except Great Britain was represented at La Paz by di plomatic officers. The late war which had occurred between Chili and Peru had really been caused by Bolivia, with whom alone at first Cliili had any misunderstanding. Unfortunately for Peru, however, she had a short time previously signed an offensive and defensive alliance with Bolivia, in conse quence of which she was drawn into the wai-. Bolivia lost Cobija, her only seaport town, but otherwise she suffered little or nothing through the war, almost the whole brunt of which had to be borne by Peru. Sunday, ilay 27, was a fine warm day. The first thing in the morning I went out to visit a market which is held every Sunday in one of the streets. As in the other market, the vendors were all Indian women, and their wares of every imaginable description. It was a busy and picturesque scene, the street being thronged with buyers, and the women being all clad in scarlet, blue, green, and other brilliant colours. After breakfast I went with the landlord of the hotel to inspect the museum, which was open only on Sundays and Thursdays. It was quite a small place, consisting of col lections of minerals, stuffed birds, &c. ; but that which was far more interesting to me than anything else was a con siderable collection of Inca antiquities, consisting chiefly of earthenware vessels and various articles in copper. Some of the former were very elaborately painted, and many of them had an appearance of great antiquity. The landlord informed me that originally the collection had been much larger and more valuable, but that many of the best articles had been stolen by the custodian and sold to strangers. After lunch we hired a tilbury with four horses, and, accom panied by the hotel proprietor, drove to the village of Obrases. The road was exceedingly rough and steep, and the drive was by no means comfortable. 122 OBRASES. Obrases lies in a ravine about four miles from La Paz, and is a favourite place for picnics among the inhabitants of the city. I was very greatly disappointed when I got there, for there was really nothing to see. On our way thither we passed long strings of donkeys on their way to La Paz laden with fruit, which was brought from warmer parts of the country, the climate of La Paz being too cold to admit of its culture. On our way back to the city we visited the race-course and the grounds belong ing to the Sporting Club. These were not yet finished, as the institution had only recently been started. It was evident, however, that they would be a great acqui sition to the town, the gardens being well laid out, and provided with pleasant shade from the numerous gum- trees which were growing there. From a terrace in the grounds a splendid view of the races would be obtained. In the evening the weather was intensely cold, and I did not venture out of the hotel after dinner. The band, how ever, played on the Plaza, though a very small audience collected round them. When I arose next morning I found that the weather had changed. The sky was dull and clouded, and at ten o'clock rain began to fall. At 2 p.m. it again cleared up, and remained fine for the rest of the day. After lunch I sallied forth to make another endeavour to purchase rugs. I was shown, however, only those of inferior qual ity, all the best being reserved for export. In the end I was obliged to content myself with a small mat and a couple of inferior prayer-rugs. I succeeded, though, in purchasing some interesting specimens of Inca pottery, as also Indian arrows, and stone and copper implements. As I was intending to leave La Paz early next morning on my return to Mollendo, I settled up my bill with my landlord after dinner, and found it considerably higher BETTER HOTEL MANAGEMENT DESIRABLE. 123 than that at Arequipa. I must confess, however, that the proprietor had been unremitting in his care and at tention to me, and was a most civil and obliging fellow. It was a pity he did not look after things in his hotel, however, and see that the rooms were cleaner, and the food and attendance somewhat better. 124 CHAPTER XIV. A CURIOUS CEMETERY RETURN JOURNEY TO MOLLENDO AN ENGLISH ENGINE-DRIVER RESUMPTION OF VOYAGE — OALLAO ARRANGEMENTS POR REPAIRING YACHT LIMA U.S.S. TRENTON A BULL-PIGHT CONSIDERABLE DAMAGE TO THE YACHT. May 29-June 12, 1888. At half-past seven the next morning, Tuesday, May 29, we left La Paz in the diligence, the weather being cold and windy. We were an hour and a half ascending the hill, from the summit of which we took our last look at the interesting city of La Paz lying beneath us, with its red- roofed houses. On our way up we passed the cemetery, into which I turned for a few minutes. The place was certainly curious, and well worth a visit. Instead of the coffins being buried in the ground they were placed in niches in the walls, which are then bricked up, so that there are rows upon rows of coffins one above another. The walls thus present a most strange appearance. The same thing, however, is to be met with in the Campo Santa in Genoa, as also at Pisa and many other of the Italian towns. We reached Chililaya at 3 p.m., where I met a German gentleman who most kindly gave me several mementoes of the country, including two most interesting models of the Indian balsas used on the lake. We embarked on the same steamer that had brought us over from Puno, the captain of AN ENGLISH ENGINE-DRIVEE. 125 which presented me with another balsa, as also with a stone containing a number of fossil shells, which had been picked up on Mount Sorato, 12,500 feet above the sea. Chililaya is quite a hamlet, consisting of not more than a couple of dozen houses; but the view of the Andes from the place is mag nificent beyond description. We arrived at Puno at half-past nine next morning, but there was no train leaving until the following clay. The soli tary hotel in the place was insufferably bad, and I was only too pleased to accept the kind offer of the captain to remain on board until my train should leave. In the course of the morning I walked up to the town of Puno, which was about a mile distant from the landing-place. I found it a small, old-fashioned place, containing about 8000 inhabitants. In the Plaza stood a handsome old church, the interior of which, however, I did not visit. Here I bought some prayer-mats and vicuna rugs, which I found much better and cheaper than those which I had seen at La Paz. The rest of the day I spent on the steamer, as there was really nothing whatever to be seen on shore. The captain and engineer were friendly and obliging, and they both got up early next morning to see me off by the 6.45 train. I found their as,sistance with my luggage most acceptable. At Lagunillas I was met by Mr S., who was waiting with horses to take me to his silver -mines. It appeared that he had sent me a letter to Puno telling me of this arrangement. Unfortunately I had not received it, and as my time was so limited and I had not made the necessary arrangements, I was compelled to forego the visit to the mines, which would no doubt have afforded me great interest and enjoyment. During our halt for half an hour at Santa Lucia for breakfast I got into conversation with the engine- driver of the train. To my surprise I found that he was an Englishman, and that he hailed from Brighton. He appeared to me a highly educated man, and I have no doubt that, like 126 ONCE MORE UNDER WAY. many other people one meets in these countries, he had a curious history of his own, which, however, he did not reveal to me. From him I received as a present a very curious Peruvian jar, covered with quaint figures. The journey from Puno to Arequipa was monotonous in the extreme, the country for the most part being only a sandy desert. We reached the latter place at 6.30 p.m., and I received a hearty welcome back from the landlord at the Hotel Central, the cleanliness and comfort of which were a most ' agreeable change to my experience at La Paz. Leaving Arequipa at eight o'clock next morning, Friday, June 1, we reached Mollendo at 3.30 p.m., and I was met at the station by Mr R., Mr G., and the sailing-master, from the latter of whom I heard, to my satisfaction, that every thing had been going on well on board the yacht during iny absence. I spent the night ashore at the Hotel del Ferro Carril, and next morning was very busy getting in provisions and settling bills. Money was very scarce in Mollendo, and ' I had the greatest difficulty in cashing a bill for £20. When I went to bid good-bye to Mr R., who had been most kind and taken a great deal of trouble on our behalf, he presented us with an exceedingly handsome white alpaco skin. We went off to the yacht at noon, and by half-past three we were once more under way. There was scarcely any wind at first, but shortly before six a nice breeze sprang up. We headed for Callao, 470 miles northward along the coast. The next three days were dull and rainy, the wind was right aft, and there was a considerable swell on, which caused us to tumble about a great deal. At 2 P.M. on Tuesday, June 5, we made out the island of San Lorenzo, and at half-past seven in the evening we were at anchor in Callao Bay. The next morning was fine, but, as usual on this coast, the atmosphere was very heavy. As it was very dark when we CALLAO — LIMA. 127 arrived the evening before, we had dropped anchor a good distance off from the shore. At daybreak we proceeded farther up the harbour, and took up our position near the United States men-of-war Trenton and Alert. There were no British war -vessels in the harbour. The health-boat came off at 7.30 a.m., and gave us pratique. Shortly after breakfast an enormous bundle of letters and newspapers arrived on board for the men. To my great surprise there were none for me ; I therefore concluded that my mail must be waiting at Lima for me, and I decided to go thither at once for them. Before doing so, however, I went to the floating-dock, and arranged about our entering in order that the damage which our keel had sustained through running on the rocks in Sholl Bay might be repaired. I found from the dock-master that we could not get in until the following Monday, and an agreement was made between us for that day. I landed soon after eleven, and having called at the Consulate, I took the twelve o'clock train for Lima. The distance between the two towns was only 7f miles, but the train stops at five stations on the way, and the journey occupied half an hour. There are two lines between Callao and Lima, one belonging to an English company, and the other to an American. On reaching Lima I went direct to the Consulate : there were no letters awaiting me there, and I therefore went on to the Legation, where at length I found them. I lunched at the Hotel de France et d'Angleterre, a comfortable-looking inn kept by a French woman. The cooking was very fair. Afterwards I strolled through the town, with which I was considerably disap pointed. The shops especially are very poor, and were not to be compared with those at Rio de Janeiro and Monte Video. As usual in South American cities, there was a large and handsome Plaza in the centre of the city. In the middle of the Plaza was a fine fountain surrounded by busts of Peruvian heroes on pedestals. Two sides of the 128 U.S.S. TRENTON. square were occupied by shops with arcades in front of them, on the third was the cathedral, and on the fourth the Palace of the President. The cathedral is an imposing- looking building with two lofty towers, and the oak carvings in the choir are exceedingly beautiful. The supposed remains of Pizarro, by whom the cathedral was founded, rest within its walls. There were several other churches in the city, the exteriors of which were striking : the finest of these appeared to me the church which is dedicated to St Francis. The town was well lit by gas : the electric light had been introduced here, but the company became bank rupt, and now it is disused. After dining at the same hotel where I had lunched, I returned to Callao by the 9 p.m. train. I slept on board the yacht, and landed at eleven. After calling at the Consulate I took a walk through the town, and was agreeably surprised to find so clean a place, as foreign seaports are generally dirty. The shops, moreover, were very fair, the principal stores being kept by Europeans and Americans. There is an unusual proportion of foreigners in Callao, and the city boasts three clubs — English, Italian, and Peruvian. The two former kindly enrolled me as an honorary member. In the afternoon I called on the captain and officers of the U.S.S. Trenton in return for a call which I had received from them in the morning. The ship was a fine vessel of rather an old-fashioned type. I spent but a short time on board, and then returned to the yacht. The evening was close, and the next day very hot, so much so, indeed, that after going ashore for a few minutes in the morning I found it cooler and more pleasant to return to the yacht. In the course of the afternoon I visited the docks, which are of considerable extent, and with a railway running the entire length of the quays. Afterwards, accom panied by Mr W., the British Vice - Consul, I went to see the English cemetery, which lies about three miles from the EXPOSITION GARDENS. 129 town. It is neatly laid out and well kept, and in it were several monuments erected to officers and men of different ships of the British navy. The Peruvian cemetery was near by, and there, as at La Paz, they buried in the walls. Near at hand were the grounds belonging to the Rifle Club, through which we strolled. They were very tastefully laid out, and Mr W. informed me that in summer the band played there on Sunday evenings. On our way back Mr W. took me into his house, and kindly presented me with a most curious piece of Inca pottery. I spent a short time in the evening at the English Club. The next day was again dull, though there was no appear ance of rain. I went to Lima by the twelve train, and visited the Exposition Gardens, which were situated about two miles beyond the city. They were of very considerable size, and before the outbreak of the late war they had contained a large collection of animals and birds. The Chilians, however, had carried away everything of value from the place, besides doing an enormous amount of damage to the buildings and gardens themselves. The consequence was, that there was little to be seen, and the gardens themselves were in a dilapidated condition. The principal gateway, however, was very handsome. After purchasing some Inca pottery at a shop which I discovered in a back street, I returned to Callao by the five o'clock train. The following day, June 10, was a Sunday, and we went to chtirch at half-past ten on board the Trenton. The service was that of the American Episco])al Church, which is almost identical with that of the Anglican. We were afterwards shown over the ship, and lunched with the captain. The Secretary of the U.S. Legation and the captain of the Alert were also present, in addition to several officers belonging to the latter ship. After lunch I went by train to Lima, in order to witness what I had been informed would be the last bull-fight of the 130 A BULL-FIGHT. season. The ring, which was situated in the Plaza d'Acho, was very similar to that at Monte Video, and was capable of seating about 10,000 people. The attendance, however, was very small, although seven bulls had been advertised to be killed. The proceedings commenced at a quarter to four by a pro cession of the picadors and other performers across the arena. After bowing to the President, these took up their stations to await the entry of the bull. Three of the men were on horseback, the rest on foot. On a signal being given by the firing of a rocket, the door of the bulls' stable was thrown open, and the first one trotted out into the arena. The animal was of a brown colour, of moderate size, and poor in condition. Directly he caught sight of the horses he made a charge at them. It was really beautiful to see the way in which the riders avoided the bull's rush. Every care was taken to prevent the horses from being injured, and in this respect the bull-fight at Lima appeared to me less cruel than at Monte Video or in Spain. After playing the bull for about five minutes on horseback, a bugle was sounded, and the second part of the performance commenced. Darts were brought in about a foot long and decorated with ribbons. These were given to the bandarillos, who endeavoured to induce the bull to charge them. On his doing so they nimbly stepped aside, and planted a dart in each side of his neck. The main object was to perform this trick as neatly as possible, and when the bandarillo succeeded in putting both his darts into the animal's neck he was greeted with loud applause. This so-called sport went on for about ten minutes, at the end of which time the wretched animal had six darts hanging from the shoulders. The bugle was again sounded, and the matador appeared to perform the finishing act. This man carried a straight double-edged sword and a red flag. The picadors then urged the bull towards him, and endeav oured to persuade him to charge him. After some time he AN UNSKILFUL MATADOR. 131 did SO, but the matador made a bad shot and did not drive the sword in deep enough. The wound, therefore, was not. fatal, as it ought to have been, and the poor beast, with blood streaming down his shoulders, charged right and left and knocked the matador over. His attention was immediately distracted, or otherwise he would probably have killed him. Once again he charged, and again the matador only succeeded in wounding him. Loud hisses were now raised by the audience, who cried out for another matador. The bull, however, gave the man another chance, and this time he managed to give a fatal blow. Even then the poor animal was at least five minutes in dying, and it was a sickening sight to see him swaying himself slowly from side to .side struggling with death. As soon as he fell a team of mules was brought in ; the carcass was made fast and dragged out of the ring at a gallop, the band in the meanwhile playing a triumphant march. After a short pause another bull entered, and the pro ceedings in the first case were repeated. This bull, however, was a remarkably game creature, and proved too much for the picadors and bandarillos. In a few minutes, therefore, other cattle were introduced, and he, together with them, was driven back to his stable, having saved his life for the present by his indomitable courage. The third bull was of a dun colour and fought well. As in the first instance, the matador made several bad shots before he finally succeeded in despatching him. The fourth and last bull was a miserable-looking animal, and was neatly killed at the first attempt. This finished the afternoon's performance, with which on the whole I was considerably disappointed. The bulls were not particularly wild, and the matadors and bandarillos were exceedingly clumsy, and I resolved not to visit another bull fight in Lima. After dining at the Hotel de France et d'Angleterre I 132 THE NYANZA DOCKED AND SURVEYED. returned to Callao at 9 p.m., and the next day I again spent at Lima, my time being principally occupied in making pur chases. I had been elected an honorary member of the Phoenix Club, which was chiefly intended for English residents in the city, and had a good assortment of news papers. It was also provided with a fair library, and had a flne billiard-room, in which I spent the afternoon, returning to Callao by the 5 p.m. train. On Tuesday, June 12, we ran our yacht into the floating- dock. We commenced operations at 7 a.m., and it was half- past nine before we got finally locked in. Soon after ten pumping was commenced, and by half-past eleven the dock was empty. As soon as the bottom of the yacht became visible we found that she had sustained considerably more damage than we had anticipated. The false keel amidships had been torn away, the main keel and garboard strakes were injured, six tons of lead were altogether gone, and another piece was sticking out almost at a right angle. A great portion of the copper was also gone from amidships, whilst almost the whole of the wood casing below the lead had been torn off. The surveyors came off at twelve o'clock, and made an exhaustive survey of the vessel. They expressed an opinion that it was simply marvellous that she had been able to sail so well since the accident. We now were able to realise how providential it was that she came off the rocks when she did, as in less than another hour she must inevit ably have had the water in her. It was evident that the repairs would take some time, as the tanks and part of the ballast would have to be removed before the new lead could be bolted on. I therefore made up my mind to make the best of the delay, and to visit mean while the principal places of interest within reach of Callao. 133 CHAPTER XV. EXCURSIONS IN PERU CHICLA A NOVEL MODE OF TRAVELLING HOTEL QUARTERS AT LIMA — ¦ COCK-FIGHTING LOTTERIES A GOOD BARGAIN SAN LORENZO A CURIOUS RELIGIOUS CUSTOM PROGRESS OF WORK ON REPAIR OP YACHT. June 13-28, 1888, Accordingly next morning, Wednesday, June 13, we left Cal lao at seven o'clock by the Oroya railway for Chicla, accom panied by Mr B. of the s.s. Retriever, We changed trains at Lima, where we found Mr H., the Company's manager, waiting for us. This gentleman had kindly made arrange ments for us to return from Chicla next day in a hand-car in charge of the chief carpenter of the line. The country after leaving Lima is not particularly inter esting, though it is highly cultivated, large sugar plantations extending for a considerable distance on each side of the line. Many ruined ancient Inca villages and aqueducts were to be seen at intervals as we passed along. In the time of the Incas the whole of the country must have been very thickly popu lated, and the people must have been industrious and skilful agriculturists, for the remains of the terraces on which they grew their crops could be seen stretching one above the other more than half-way up the hills. We stopped for half an hour for breakfast at Chosica, a station 33 miles distant from Lima. From this point the line began to ascend rapidly, and with very sharp and apparently dangerous curves. We passed 134 SKILFUL RAILWAY ENGINEERING. the station of San Bartolomfe, and then the scenery became marvellously grand and beautiful. The line, moreover, bore evidences of skilful engineering. The bridge over the Ver rugas River, which we crossed soon after passing San Barto- lom^, is considered one of the wonders of Peru. It was con structed in the United States, and is on the truss system. It is an iron bridge, 580 feet long and 253 feet high, raised on three piers, the base of the centre one of which is 50 feet square. The deflection of the bridge is exceedingly small, being only five-eighths of an inch. Tambo de Viso was the next station which we passed, and here the steepest part of the line commences. The precipices are too steep to permit of the line taking a curve, and it is therefore constructed in the shape of the letter V. On arriving at one end of this V, the train is shunted and pushed backwards up the other side until it arrives at the top, when it again resumes its for ward journey. There were three of these V's which we tra versed before reaching Chicla, which was then the terminus of the line. At one part the train emerges suddenly from a tunnel on to a bridge over a splendid and gloomy gorge, with lofty precipices on either side. As soon as the train has crossed this bridge it plunges into another tunnel. The scen ery as we crossed the bridge, which is called Puente del In- fernillo, was awfully grand and sublime. We reached Chicla at 4.30 p.m., and took up our quarters at the Hotel Trascen- dino, a small, tolerably clean, and comfortable inn. The Oroya railway was constructed by Mr Meiggs, the great American engineer, who also built the railway from Mollendo to Puno. The line from Lima was commenced in 1870, and completed as far as Chicla in 1876. The original intention was to carry it as far as the mining town of Cerro del Pasco, but the work was stopped for want of funds, hav ing cost no less than £5,175,000 as far as Chicla. The track, however, was already graded, and tunnels bored as far as Oroya, 50 miles beyond Chicla. I was informed that over w B >o I OS3 IS tZiHO Oi 166 DEPARTURE PROM THE ISLAND. yacht to go round to that point. Shortly afterwards, however, word was brought to us that the lifeboat was coming in, and we therefore at once went down to the landing-place, and succeeded in getting safely off, accompanied by Allen and Mr Brander's cook. Most of the natives came down to the landing-place, and as we pushed off they cheered and waved their hats. The Frenchman presented us with a lamb, and the old cook gave us a dozen fowls and a pig, several of the others also making us presents. Notwithstanding the disagreeable incident which I have described above, I was greatly interested and pleased with my visit to Easter Island, and I was particularly charmed with the simple unsophisticated character and manners of the natives. We finally weighed anchor at half-past ten, and at once bore away from the island. A nice fresh breeze sprang up in the afternoon, and we slipped along at a good pace. 167 CHAPTER XVni. LOVELY WEATHER — LOSS OF FOWLS AND LOG-FANS FATOU-HIVA IN THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS — A FRENCH SETTLEMENT LUXU RIANT VEGETATION HISTORY OP THE ISLANDS HIVA-OA THE CASCO MR ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON THE FRENCH GOVERN MENT AT HIVA-OA — AN EXTRAVAGANT DISH NUKA-HIVA A BEAUTIFUL BAY A REMARKABLE ENGLISHMAN DEARTH OF CURIOS RENEWED TROUBLE ON BOARD THE YACHT AHI ATOLL RANGIROA ATOLL POINT VENUS TAHITI. August 17-September 11, 1S88. We now steered almost due N.W., our next destination being Fatou-hiva in the Marquesas Islands, 1900 miles from Easter Island. For the first few days we were favoured with most delightful and propitious weather; the air was warm, and the sun shone day after day in a cloudless sky. The sea was perfectly smooth, and a fine fresh and fair wind sent us along at intervals at a rate of from eight to ten knots an hour. Every now and then, however, the breeze died away, and for a few hours at a time we made but little progress. The only incident that occurred for the next five days was the loss of six fowls on the third day out, their heads being bitten off by the pigs, in whose pen we had placed them. On Wednesday, August 22, after having run nearly 850 miles in six days, the wind came dead aft, and we found 168 FATOU-HIVA. ourselves in the midst of a considerable beam -sea which caused us to roll fearfully. This lasted throughout the whole of that day and through the greater part of the fol lowing night. But early the next morning the wind once more came abeam, and favoured by a splendid breeze we went along, with fore and aft sails set, at the rate of from nine to ten knots an hour, running altogether in twenty-four hours 221 miles. We lost two fans belonging to a patent log that day, and we concluded that the lines must have been bitten by a shark. The heat was now very intense notwithstanding the .strong breeze. We were rapidly nearing the equator, and by Mon day, August 27, we were in 11° 32" south latitude. Our di.stance at noon on that day from Fatou-hiva was 203 mil&s, and we had every prospect of reaching it next day. In the afternoon, however, we were quite becalmed, and though a light air sprang up towards the evening we did not make above three knots an hour. At 7 a.m. on the morning of Wednesday, August 29, we sighted Fatou-hiva, at a distance of 45 miles. As we approached the island its appearance became very pic turesque ; the east side, along which we coasted, being ex tremely precipitous, and without any possibility of landing. We arrived and anchored in Bon Repos Bay at 4.15 p.m., a little more than thirteen days after leaving Easter Lsland. The bay was somewhat open, but is safe from all winds except those from the west, which seldom blow at that season of the year. Soon after anchoring we went ashore in the dingy, landing on the rocks which are mentioned by Mr Lambert in the ' Voyage of the Wanderer.' The island belongs to the French, and the flag of that nation was flying on shore. We were met by the gendarme in charge of the station, which is the principal settlement of the island. The gendarme, who was accompanied by another Frenchman and several natives, conducted us to HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS. 169 his house, which was neatly built of wood with a verandah round it, the floor of which presented a clean and cool appearance, being constructed of pieces of split bamboo plaited together. After partaking of some refreshment we went for a short stroll, and were much delighted with the look of the place. The vegetation was luxuriant in the extreme, the valley appearing as one vast forest of palm - trees, intermingled with every kind of tropical fruit — cocoa-nuts, bananas, mangoes, pine - apples, limes, and oranges ; together with many other sorts too numerous to mention. The beauty of the scenery was enhanced by a broad grassy road which ran through the valley. The gendarme, who was very courteous in his attentions to us, informed us that the native population of the island numbered about 700. The Marquesas group consists altogether of twelve islands, with a total area of 489 square miles. They are all of volcanic origin, the highest point among them being 3905 feet above the level of the sea. The south-eastern portion of the group was first discovered by Alvaro Mendana on July 21, 1591, and received from him the name by which they have been known ever since, in honour of the Mar- quesa de Mendoza, who was then Viceroy of Peru. The islands were visited by Cook in 1774 ; the French occu pied them in 1843, since which time great progress has been made in their cultivation. On Thursday, August 30, we went ashore after breakfast and took a long walk along the beautiful gras,sy road above described, which was made by the French, and extends upwards of two miles along the valley. The scenery was lovely beyond description, the vegetation being even more magnificent than that which we had noticed on the previ ous day. Pine-apples were planted the whole distance on each side of the road, but unfortunately we were too early Y 170 NON-SUCCESS OP MISSIONARY WORK. for the fruit, which would not be ripe for another couple of months. The valley was well watered by several streams, and some splendid old banyan-trees were a great feature of the landscape. The two finest of these were in the cemetery, which we visited. This was a tidily kept little place, but there were very few graves in it, the custom of the natives being generally to lay their dead on platforms in the deepest recesses of the woods. The village itself was very prettily situated in a shady grove of palm-trees close to the beach. The houses, which were not very numerous, were all built of wood, the roofs being thatched, and neat-looking verandahs surrounding them in front. There was a Roman Catholic chapel, in which service was held once a fortnight, the priest residing in Virgins Bay, about four miles north of Bon Repos, where was a school and a mission; but from what I could learn, missionary work in this island had not met with the success which it has had in Easter Island. I was informed that frequently when the priest came over he was unable to get a single person to attend the service. As a matter of fact, the natives are little changed from their condition when the French first landed. So far as outward acts of violence are concerned, they are, of course, prevented from making war upon one another, and cannibalism has virtually disappeared, though I heard that a man had been eaten only two years ago at Hiva-oa. The French appear to rule with a firm hand, keeping the people usefully employed, and constructing good roads and other public works, by means of native labour. Tattooing is no longer permitted, under penalty of fine and imprison ment, but all the adult natives whom we saw were beauti fully and elaborately tattooed, chiefly on their legs, faces, and arms ; the patterns were really most artistic, and the execution of the design was remarkably good. Few of the •men wore anything but a loin-cloth ; the women, however, were dressed in a loose cotton garment closely resembling HIVA-OA— THE CASCO. 171 those of Easter Island, and most of them I noticed had flowers in their hair. The natives of the Marquesas are excellent boat-builders ; in addition to their canoes they have some capital whale- boats. The canoes are dug out of the trunk of a palm- tree, and fitted with a large log out-rigger on one side. The paddles are neatly made and of peculiar shape, with a short and very broad blade. Fishing is also abundantly practised, and the natives are very expert in the art. They use a curious bait made of mother-of-pearl tipped with hog's bristles — the glitter of this in the water attracting the fish much in the same manner as the spoon which is used in England. Most of the inhabitants of the Marquesas are splended swimmers and divers. Next morning we got under way at 7.15, taking with us on board a Frenchman to whom I was giving a passage to Tahiti. We were favoured with a fine strong breeze, and shortly after noon we arrived and anchored in Taa-hou-kou harbour. Traitors' Bay, in the island of Hiva-oa. The port is safe and well sheltered, though rather narrow and confined. Here to our surprise we found an American schooner yacht of about 110 tons. After lunching I went off to her, and dis covered that she was the Casco, belonging to San Francisco, and chartered by Mr Robert Louis Stevenson, the celebrated novelist, who, accompanied by his mother, wife, and step-son, had come direct from San Francisco to Nuka-hiva, and had Tattooed leg — Marquesas. 172 MR ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. already spent some time in the Marquesas. After remain ing a while on board, I returned to the Nyanza, and soon afterwards went on shore. The landing was bad, and we were compelled to beach the boat, in doing which we got a good wetting. There was only one house in the place, that belonging to Mr K., who was formerly in the 8th Hussars, but who, after selling out and trying to settle in New Zealand, finally took up his quarters here a few years ago. He had a very good house, to which he invited us ; but after staying there a short time, we took a walk with him through the valley, which was one mass of cocoa-nut palms. The scenery, however, was not nearly so pretty as at Fatou-hiva, and there was nothing like the same quantity of fruit. The natives appeared to be more civilised, but were by no means so interesting as those of the former place. Curiosities, I was informed, were exceedingly scarce, but Mr K. kindly gave me a pair of ear-ornaments neatly carved in bone. About two miles inland was another valley, where was the principal settlement and the residence of the officials. I did not visit it until the next day, but returned on board before six, as I was expecting the Stevensons to spend the evening with us. We had a most delightful chat, and they had evidently enjoyed themselves very much in the Marquesas, and were most enthusiastic about the islands and their inhabitants. The next morning I visited the Casco, which Mr Steven son kindly offered for my inspection. I found her a vessel of the regular American type, great beam and little depth, provided with a cock-pit and a coach roof extending her whole length, in order to give greater head-room below. Her accommodation was very limited, and she appeared to me more adapted for sailing about San Francisco Bay than for a cruise across the ocean. At 4 P.M. we went ashore, and rode over to the settlement on some horses which Mr K. had kindly provided for us. AN EXTRAVAGANT DISH. 173 The road was very good, and we were not long in traversing the mile and a half to the so-called Government House. The French Government is here represented by a couple of goidanncs, one of whom holds the rank of a mardehal de logis. The native houses were smaller than those of Fatou- hiva, but there was a remarkably well-built stone chapel served by a French priest, and there were also some Catholic Sisters, one of whom was an Irish girl. In the evening Mr K. dined with us on board the yacht, and from him I obtained a great deal of information about the country. The chief product of the island was cotton, than which there is no finer grown in the world. It com mands in the English market double the price of American cotton ; great attention, however, has to be paid to its cultiva tion, and as the natives are naturally idle and disinclined to work, much difficulty and trouble is experienced thereby. The other export of the island is copra, or dried cocoa-nut. which is much used in the manufacture of fancy soaps. The native population of Hiva-oa numbers altogether about 1200 souls. The next day was Sunday, and a very hot day it was. At half -past twelve we went ashore to lunch with Mr K. Amongst other things we had fresh- water prawns, which both in appear ance and taste could scarcely be distinguished from the salt water prawns with which we are familiar in England. We also had a salad made from the young green top-shoots of the cocoa-nut palm. This was a most excellent but extrava gant dish, as it is necessary to cut the whole tree down in order to make one salad. Whilst ashore I purchased a head ornament made of an enormous number of porpoise-teeth strung together. I was very pleased at my success in securing this curio, as these head-ornaments are highly valued and very difficult to be obtained. The next morning, having signalled " Adieu " to the Casco, 174 NUKA-HIVA. we got under way at 7.30, being towed out of the harbour by a whale-boat manned by a native crew which Mr K. thought fully sent off to our assistance, there not being sufficient wind to waft us out of the port. At ten o'clock, however, a strong breeze came up, which sent us along at a good speed through the Bordelaise Channel. Shortly before clearing this we were struck by a sharp squall, which nearly carried the square sail away before we could get it in. The breeze lasted well throughout the day, and though there was some sea on we were swept along pleasantly. After sighting Adams and Washington Islands, we arrived at 6 p.m. within ten miles of Nuka-hiva. It was too dark for us to attempt to enter the harbour that night; we therefore put the ship about, and hove to awaiting the daylight. As soon as it was light we stood in for the island, and before 7.30 a.m. we were safely at anchor in Tai-o-hae harbour. Controller Bay. At the entrance to the port are two remarkable rocks called the Sentinels, and on passing these we were greatly baffied by the squally and uncertain action of the wind. This was succeeded by a calm, in consequence of which we had to be towed to our anchorage by the lifeboat. The bay is noble and picturesque, with lofty mountains encircling it on all sides so as to shelter it perfectly from the wind, and with houses scattered along the shore embosomed in palm- trees and looking very pretty. There is sufficient depth of water, and the bay is wide enough to accommodate a whole fleet. At the time of our arrival there were two small schooners lying at anchor, one belonging to the Government and the other a trader. The harbour-master boarded us and gave us pratique. After breakfast I went on shore, but the place seemed very tame and civilised after Fatou-hiva. There were two stores kept by Europeans, several drinking-shops, and a bil liard-room dignifled by the title of the Hotel International. A REMARKABLE ENGLISHMAN. 175 The Resident of the Marquesas group resides here; he is, however, under the orders of the governor of Tahiti, A doctor, a commissary, the harbour - master, and a few gendarmes are the other representatives of the French element; but there are no longer any troops on the island. The native population of Nuka-hiva is about 900 in number ; in addition to these there were about 40 Europeans and Americans, besides a good number of half-castes. One old man whom I met was an Englishman who had resided on the island for forty-two years. His face was tattooed just like a native's, and I have no doubt that if he could have been induced to tell me his history I might have an interesting and curious story to relate. The natives were fully dressed as Europeans in coats, trousers, and shirts, and were much more civilised in appearance than those of Fatou-hiva or Hiva-oa. There is regular communication between Nuka-hiva and San Francisco by means of a line of sailing-ships, which call there once a-month on their way to and from Tahiti car rying the mails, for which they receive a subsidy from Gov ernment. Other vessels of various kinds also frequently call at this port. There is no compulsory pilotage, nor does the harbour light exist which is shown so conspicuously on Imray's chart. I tried hard to get some curios, but they were extremely scarce and dear, and I only managed to secure a couple of old men's yellow beards, which are considered of great value. They were formerly worn in the head - dress as a kind of plume, the ends being neatly whipped with sennit. In the evening we went out in the dingy to haul the seine, but only caught about a dozen small fish. Provisions in this settlement were very dear ; sheep cost as much as twenty-five francs apiece, while ducks and fowls were five and three francs a-head respectively. Goats and fowls abound in the nighbourhood in a wild state, but a 176 RENEWED TROUBLE ON BOARD. licence is required to shoot them, and indeed to carry arms at all. Next morning, Wednesday, September 5, we got under way at ten o'clock, but the wind was against us, and we were not clear of the harbour till half-past eleven. Once Outside, however, we had a fair brisk breeze, and went along a good eight knots an hour. This morning a little trouble occurred on board, one of the hands grumbling at orders and being insolent to the chief officer. I therefore had the whole crew aft, and told them that if there was any more grumbling or growling I would dismiss them at the next port we put into, for I was de termined not to stand any nonsense on their part. We now made for Tahiti, which lay about 760 miles S.W. of the Marquesas. The weather was still intensely hot, and the wind gentle and light. However, we ran on an average 130 miles a-day until Saturday, September 8, when at 3 p.m. we sighted Ahi atoll, past which we ran at a distance of about six miles off. This island presented a most curious appear ance, for the land is nowhere more than about six feet above the sea, and from the deck the palm-trees seemed to be growing out of the water. The next day we sighted Rangiroa atoll at 10 A.M., and at a quarter-past twelve we were within a mile of the island. We then hove to and lowered the lifeboat, but on getting close to the beach we found a considerable surf running and breaking over coral heads, and we therefore did not deem it prudent to attempt to land. Rangiroa atoll is the largest island in the Low Archipelago, nearly 60 miles in length and densely wooded with cocoa - nut palms. There were two stations on it, one of which belonged to Mr Brander of Easter Island. Before two o'clock we had continued our course, and soon afterwards sighted Tikahau atoll. The wind dropped in the evening, and next day it was TAHITL 177 nearly a dead calm until 4 p.m. A breeze then sprang up, but unfortunately it was ahead of us. By Tuesday, September 11, at noon, we had run only 25 miles in the last twenty -four hours. In the afternoon we sighted the mountains of Tahiti, and shortly afterwards dis cerned the island of Morea. At 9 p.m. we made the light on Point Venus, and at ten o'clock we hove to and waited for daybreak to enter Papeete harbour. 178 CHAPTER XIX. PAPEETE A DISAPPOINTING TOWN, BUT A SPLENDID HARBOUR THE MOUNTAINS OF MOREA A GAY AND AMUSING SPECTACLE 1 DISMISS MY SERVANT A MODEST REQUEST A WONDER FUL CORAL-REEP THE ARCHIPELAGO OP TAHITI, OR SOCIETY ISLANDS 1 ENGAGE A FRENCH STEWARD EXCURSION THROUGH THE ISLAND — HITIAA A NATIVE LEViE MATAIEA A PARA DISE OP INDOLENCE THE PLANTATION OF ATIMAVAO MORE TROUBLE ON BOARD DISCHARGE OP THE SAILING-MASTER AND COOK RE-ENGAGEMENT OP THE FORMER, September 12-18, 1888. The next morning the breeze had dropped again, and there was scarcely any wind. Passing Point Venus, we signalled for a pilot, who came off to us about nine o'clock ; and his services were very necessary, for the entrance into Papeete harbour is excessively narrow and intricate, with dangerous reefs on either side. Once inside, however, the port is like a fresh-water lake. We landed almost immediately after letting go the anchor, and went to the Hotel de France for lunch. This is generally considered the better of the only two hotels in Papeete; and though its appearance was decidedly unpretentious, the house seemed clean and the cooking was good. The landlady was a Frenchwoman. As we required a new main-gaff, I went to Messrs Crawfords' store, the largest one in the place, and returned to the yacht accompanied by a shipwright to take the measure for the necessary repairs. A DISAPPOINTING TOWN. 179 I then landed again, and was conducted by ilr D., the manager of JMessrs Crawford, through the town. I was greatly disappointed with the place, the buildings of which were poor and mean and the streets without pavements, though they have high-sounding names and are planted on each side with trees, like boulevards. There were no shops in the ordinary sense of the word, but large general warehouses or stores. The sacred buildings consisted of a moderate- sized Catholic church called the Cathedral, though very plain and unadorned, and a Wesleyan chapel, which looked un commonly like a barn. The palace of the king was a com fortable-looking villa, but without any appearance of royalty about it. Lady Brassey, in the 'Voyage of the Sunbeam,' mentions the delightful walk along the sea-shore, with the lovely turf sloping down to the water's edge. There was certainly a good sea-road, but when I was there the little grass that there appeared to be on the spot was all burnt up and withered. The splendid harbour is completely protected by the reef which encircles the island, and however stormy the weather may be outside, within it the water is always smooth. The view from the centre of the bay is excessively lovely, the mountains behind Papeete being covered with verdure and the town almost hidden amongst the palm-trees. The distant feature in the picturesque view is the island of Morea, 12 miles away, the mountains of which are cut into sharp peaks and pinnacles which stand out boldly against the sky. After an excellent dinner at the Hotel de France, I was joined by Mr D. We went into the place to hear the band play. A very gay and amusing spectacle presented itself to my eyes, for the natives, who were congregated in large numbers, danced round the bandstand like little chil dren, evidently enjoying themselves to their hearts' content. Most of them were decorated with wreaths of flowers round their heads, which were sold by a number of women grouped together in one corner of the square. The music was pretty. 180 A MODEST REQUEST. and the band much better than one might have expected to find in Tahiti. The next day I had some trouble with my servant, in consequence of which I was obliged to discharge him. My morning was occupied in endeavours to obtain another steward in his place, and in making the arrangements for a three days' expedition round the island. On my return to the yacht I found a missionary on . board, who made the modest request that I would take him to Pitcairn Island. He belonged to an American sect, the name of which I cannot remember, but their main principles appeared to be that Sunday should be kept on Saturday. The missionary tried his utmost to palm off a number of books upon me for sale, saying that he was excessively anxious that I should thoroughly understand the principles which he professed. All his blandishments, however, were unfortunately thrown away upon me, and I was stern-hearted enough to refuse his request for a passage. When I had managed to get rid of my importunate visitor, we went in the dingy to visit the reef. This was really a wonderful sight, for the water was only about three feet deep, and the bottom was one mass of coral of all shapes and sizes. Some of the branches were particularly beautiful ; moreover, large numbers of gorgeously coloured fish were swimming about amongst the coral-reefs, some of a most brilliant blue and others striped with black and white bars. In the evening Mr D. dined with us on the yacht, and gave us a good deal of information about the Archipelago of Tahiti. It appears that the group is divided into two portions respectively, the Leeward and Windward Islands. The whole group numbers nine islands in all, and of these Tahiti is by far the largest and most important, and is consequently the seat of Government. It is 35 miles long, and has an area of 600 square miles. It is very mountainous, the highest peak. Mount Orohena, being 7340 feet above the sea, whilst an- HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS. 181 other. Mount Aroai, is only very slightly lower. The island is divided into eighteen districts, each of M'hich is presided over by a municipal council with a native chief as president. According to the census of 1885, the population of the island of Tahiti was 9562, a considerable number of whom were Chinese. The population of Papeete itself was about 5000. The principal exports of Tahiti are copra, pearl-shell, cotton, vanilla, and sugar. The climate is damp and the rainfall great, violent hurricanes being occasionally experienced. The mean temperature for the year is 77°, the maximum being 84^ and the minimum 69° ; so that the weather may be called decidedly temperate. The first record that exists of the group being visited was of Pedro Fernandez de Quiros in February 1607, but they were not taken possession of until June 1767, when Wallace in the Dolphin proclaimed them part of the British possessions in the name of George III. The next year Bougainville visited them, and claimed them for France under the title of La Nouvelle Cyth^re ; but the real his tory of the group dates from the time of Cook, who visited it four times between the years 1769 and 1777. From him they received the name of " Society Islands " in honour of the Royal Society, and by this title they have been known ever since. Bligh, in command of the Bounty, spent five months there in 1778, and Tahiti was revisited by the crew after the memorable mutiny. The first missionaries were a couple of Spanish priests, who landed on the islands in .1774. In 1797 some Protestant missionaries also landed here,, but owing to, the difficulties which they encountered they left, and no permanent Protestant mission was estab lished till, 1812. By the year 1836 these mis,sionaries had obtained so great a hold over the natives that when a few French Catholic priests landed there they were expelled by Queen Pomare, acting under orders from the Protestant missionaries, who were aided and abetted by the British 182 FRENCH ANNEXATION. Consul, a man of the name of Pritchard. In consequence of this proceeding, difficulties arose between the Tahitian Government and France, which resulted in the mission of Admiral du Petit-Thouars to the islands in 1838, for the purpose of negotiating a treaty providing for the right of all Frenchmen, whatever might be their profession, to settle in the islands. The official account as given by the French describes the negotiations thus : " King Pomare IV. and his principal ministers requested France to take the island under her protection, and this was provisionally agreed to by the Admiral on September 9, 1842, the protectorate being ratified by Louis Philippe on March 25, 1843." The island from that date remained theoretically independent, but prac tically under French control, till June 29, 1880, when King Pomare V. resigned his entire rights over his possessions in consideration of an ample annuity; and on 30tli December following, the annexation was ratified by the Chambers, Tahiti thus becoming a French colony. This has without doubt been to the advantage of the group, for Tahiti is governed well and justly, and the natives are treated kindly. They are, however, exceedingly lazy, and great difficulty is experienced in obtaining labour for the due cultivation of the land. It is also by no means easy for any Frenchman to purchase property there, for the natives are extremely averse to selling real estate. The British Consul at Papeete, Captain T., was formerly in the 14th Hussars. I found him a very pleasant and affable companion. His wife and children had returned to England, and he was hoping to follow them shortly. From his account, the country was anything but agreeable to live in, and with the exception of the band, which played twice a-week, there were absolutely no amusements from one year's end to the other. There were, however, two clubs ; one exclusively for the use of French military and naval officers, the second chiefly supported by Americans and Europeans. Two com- EXCURSION THROUGH THE ISLAND. 183 panics of infanterie de marine and a battery of artillery were quartered at Papeete. The third day after my arrival at Papeete I engaged a French steward named Julian Rapardzig. He was a native of Reunion, and was recommended by Messrs Crawford. On Sunday, September 16, we started at 7.15 a.m. for our drive through the island. The carriage was a comfortable conveyance, roofed over but open at the sides, capable of hold ing three besides the driver, and drawn by a pair of sturdy little horses ; our coachman was a native. For the first eight miles after leaving Papeete the road was fairly good, but afterwards it became rough and narrow. During the whole distance it ran parallel to the sea and close by the shore, in some places cut out of the side of the cliff, with a deep precipice below. As a rule I am by no means nervous when driven, but I confess to a feeling of relief and satis faction when we had safely passed those portions of the road ; for if the horses had chanced to shy, there would have been nothing to prevent our being hurled down on to the rocks below. The scenery was sublime and entrancing. Sometimes we were passing through a dense tropical forest composed of palm, bread-fruit, banana, Pandanus, and many other trees which were quite unfamiliar to me, whilst at other times our road skirted lovely calm bays with sandy beaches, glimpses of pretty native villages bowered amongst trees being presented to our view. At nine o'clock we halt ed for breakfast, of which we partook under the shade of a huge tree. We reached Hitiaa, our first day's destination, at 2 p.m. the country during the latter part of our journey having been well watered by numerous streams, which in the rainy season become dangerous torrents. There were no bridges throughout the whole route, in consequence of which at those seasons of the year Hitiaa is completely cut off from any connection with Papeete. The former is a large native 184 A NATIVE-BUILT HOUSE. village with a Protestant church, from which the congregation was streaming out as we drove past. The women were attired in bright cotton dresses, and looked neat and clean. We were accommodated with a night's lodging in a native- built house, the sides of which were constructed of canes, through which light and air penetrated. The roof was View in Tahiti. thatched with Pandanus leaves, and mats made of sugar-cane covered the floor. The whole house consisted merely of one large room, at each end of which, on a raised dais, were three beds. Unfortunately the rain commenced to fall immediately after our arrival, and it continued to pour without interrup tion during the rest of the day. We braved the elements, however, and took a short stroll in the afternoon. There b3 TAHITI AND SOCIETY GROUP. A, Stone pestles. B, Mother-of-pearl fish-hook. C, Wooden stand for crushing bread fruit on with the stone pestles. COH O tdhJIS oc Ht-iIS HQ 00 Ol 186 A NATIVE LEVEE. was not much to see, the principal objects of interest being a number of canoes which were drawn up on the beach. These were similar to those which we had already seen both in the Marquesas and at Papeete — that is to say, hollowed out of the trunk of the cocoa-nut palm, and fitted with a large log outrigger. Curiosities were scarce, but I managed to secure three stone axes, a stone pestle for crushing bread-fruit, and the wooden stand which is used with it. Our evening meal was cooked in native fashion in an oven in the ground, and it was really very good. After dinner we held quite a levde of natives, who came in crowds asking a great many questions about the royal family of Great Britain, and especially about the Duke of Edinburgh, who, they remembered, visited Tahiti some years before in the Galatea. The next morning was fine, and we started at 8 A.M., our way lying over an exceedingly bad road, so overgrown by vegetation as to be hardly discernible. Several times we were obliged to leave it altogether, and drive along the beach and even through the sea. At half-past ten we stopped to rest the horses and to partake of breakfast ; but we were so tormented by sand-fiies and mosquitoes that we lost no time in resuming our journey. At half-past twelve we reached Taravao, where was a small fortified barrack, at present out of use. From this point the road improved con siderably, being planted for a long distance on each side with lemon-trees, the first which I had seen on the island. In a bay close to Taravao the French despatch-vessel Vire was lying, being stationed there for the purpose of making a survey with a view to the construction of a dock which the authorities had in view. The road now crossed several wide though shallow arms of the sea, and was laid on a substantial stone causeway. We passed several native villages and crossed a great number of small rivers, most of which were bridged over. A PARADISE OF INDOLENCE. 187 Shortly before two o'clock we arrived at Mataiea, where we intended to spend the night. This was a much smaller place than Hitiaa, but the houses appeared far superior, the one in which we lodged being provided with several com fortable rooms. Moreover, we got a much better dinner there than we had had the night before. The gendarme in charge of the station came to visit us in the afternoon, and remained a long time in interesting conversation. He had evidently a very poor opinion of the natives, who, according to his account, were invariably lazy and good for nothing. It can scarcely, however, be considered a matter of surprise that the natives in these islands are disinclined to work, for money is no object to them, and they can live upon almost nothing. The houses which they construct are simple edifices, eminently adapted to the climate and exactly suited to their requirements ; the canes with which they are built are cut in the bush, and the Pandanus leaves with which the roofs are thatched are procured without labour or difficulty. The cocoa-nut palm supplies them with food and drink, and if they choose they can even manufacture an intoxicating liquor from it. Fish are to be caught in the sea in marvellous abundance, the bread-fruit tree gives them bread, and from their bark they make the cloth which is used for their apparel. What more can they want? It seems, when we think about it, only natural that, lavishly supplied as they are by nature with everything that they require, and being laid under no necessity for exertion on their part, they should be disinclined for manual labour. Indeed, it appears to me extremely probable that the most energetic and laborious Europeans, who had hitherto been obliged to work hard for their living, would, if placed in similar circumstances, soon become as indolent and averse to labour as the natives themselves. Rain fell hard all night, and it had not ceased, when we started on our way at 7.30 next morning. The character of 188 MORE TROUBLE ON BOARD. the country through vvhich we now parsed was entirely different from that which we had hitherto traversed, and the road was really excellent. There was no more forest, but we passed through several cotton and sugar plantations, and over grassy meadows dotted about with palm-trees. The principal plantation which, we saw was that of Atimavao, formerly managed by the late Mr Stewart. This was the celebrated plantation which excited so much attention in the American and Australian papers a few years ago. With Mr S.'s detith the care and prosperity disappeared, and at the time of my visit the place was rapidly going to ruin. At half-past nine, when we stopped to change horses, the rain ceased and the sun came out. The last part of our drive was exceedingly enjoyable, and we reached Papeete just after noon. Our little excursion had been thoroughly delightful, but three days was quite enough to spend over it. We had been told that we ought to allow four days, but with good changes of horses it could, as a matter of fact, be accomplished with ease and enjoyment in two. Immediately on our arrival at Papeete, we went off to the yacht, where, to my great annoyance, I was met by the German cook with a couple of black eyes, who informed me that he had been knocked down by the chief officer. I sent for the sailing-master, but he was no.t on board. In about twenty minutes he came off very much the worse for drink, and when I spoke to him about the cook, he was exceedingly insolent and could scarcely speak coherently. I therefore told him that I should take him before the Consul in the morning and discharge him. The conduct of the men in general upon the occasion was anything but satisfactory ; for though none of them could fail to see the state in which the sailing-master was, I could not induce one of them to testify that he was drunk. The sailmaker was the only one who would go the length of saying that he thought that perhaps he might have had. a glass. I really do not believe that a DISCHARGE OP SAILING-MASTER AND COOK. 189 Highlander considers a man drunk until he has lost all power of locomotion and speech. I went ashore and told MrD. about the unpleasant occurrence, and he replied that he was not at all surprised, for he knew that the sailing- master had been on shore drinking hard for the last three days. He promised to find me a substitute if pos.sible, but he was very doubtful about being successful. On my return to the yacht I sent for the chief officer and the cook, and did my best to settle the matter. The cook, however, refused to listen to any explanations, and insisted upon having the whole affair out before the Consul. Accordingly, next morning at half-past nine I went to the Consulate, having previously ordered the sailing-master, chief officer, and cook to meet me there. The case of the former was settled first, proceedings being very short and summary. I proved without difficulty, to the satisfaction of the Consul, that the man had been both drunk and insolent, and that in consequence of the terms of our agreement I was entitled to discharge him summarily. To this the Consul immediately gave his sanction, but the man refused either to sign off or to take his money. I therefore deposited the money with Captain T., the Consul, who endorsed the articles. As soon as this matter was settled, we sent for the cook to hear his version of the fray in which he had been mixed up. He refused, however, to enter into the subject, merely saying that he wished for his discharge, which accordingly I agreed to let him have; he therefore received his pay and signed off. The rest of the day was spent in making inquiries for a new sailing - master and cook; but after interviewing several skippers, I could find no one that would suit me. Having dined with Captain T. in the evening, I returned on board at nine o'clock. To my surprise I found my late sailing-master in his cabin. I told him that he was no 190 , RE-ENGAGEMENT OP SAILING-MASTER. longer my servant, that he had nothing to do with the yacht, and that he must go ashore immediately. But having" now become sober and penitent, and alive to the conscious ness of the fool that he had made of himself, he apologised humbly and sincerely for what he had done, begging me earnestly to overlook the matter, and saying that he , had nowhere to lay his head, and that it was hard to be turned adrift with only £11 in his possession, and with no means to get back to England. As he was evidently heartily ashamed of himself, and sorry for his conduct, I consented to forgive him .upon his promising me that nothing of the sort should ever occur again. We shook hands, and I wished him good-night. I discovered afterwards that the man was after all not so much himself to blame, as he had been led astray by my late servant whom I had discharged a few days before. I must confess, also, that I was relieved at being able to arrange the matter thus ; for if he had left, my only course would have been to have sailed direct for New Zealand, as I could not have procured another sailing-master nearer, and this would have upset all my plans. 191 CHAPTER XX. MAIL COMMUNICATION BETWEEN TAHITI AND SAN FRANCISCO VEXATIONS AND DELAYS THE CATHOLIC BISHOP OF TAHITI DEATH OP THE KING's BROTHER — FATHER COLLETTE FARE WELL TO TAHITI A GOOD DAy's RUN THE SAMOAN GROUP OP ISLANDS PAGOPAGO FATHER FORESTIER A WAR-CANOE THE FRENCH CATHOLIC MISSION AN INTERESTING VISIT NATIVE FISHING CURIO-HUNTING APIA FATHER REME THE CIVIL WAR IN SAMOA H.M.S. CALLIOPE A TROPICAL RAIN HIGH HANDED ACTION OF GERMANS IN SAMOA DEPARTURE FROM APIA. September 19-October 9, 1888, The City of Papeete sailed from the island on September 19. She was one of the three vessels that kept up regular communication between Tahiti, the Marquesas, and San Francisco. They are sailing barques of about 370 tons, per forming the voyage from Papeete to San Francisco in from thirty to forty days, and receiving from the French Govern ment an . annual subsidy of 75,000 francs for carrying the mails. The following day we spent in thoroughly going over the stores and wine, and I was exceedingly annoyed to find that though I had started from England with sufficient stock and wine to last for three years, there was apparently only enough left to take us to San Francisco. There was now no doubt that my late servant had thoroughly taken advantage of the great trust I had reposed in him, and that 192 THE CATHOLIC BISHOP OF TAHITI. he had been helping himself extensively to my wine through out the whole voyage. I had a great deal of difficulty about a new cook, and was much tempted to take back the one who had just signed off. He was very anxious for me to do so, but I felt that after what had occurred it would be risky for me to engage him again ; and I therefore told him that I had given him several chances of staying, which he had refused, and it was then too late to change his mind. This, and the necessity for replacing the wasted stores on board, occupied my attention for several days, and delayed my departure from Tahiti. Meanwhile, one afternoon I called on the Catholic Bishop, whom I found a pleasant, aristocratic-looking man, forty- two years of age. He had only been in Tahiti for two years, and the old Bishop whom he succeeded was still alive in retirement. Being a bishop in partibus infdelium, he was not recognised by the Government, and received no Government salary. His name and title were Monseigneur Joseph Verdier, Bi-shop of M^gare and Vicar Apostolic of Tahiti. His house was pretty, and conveniently situated in the grounds of the Catholic mission. The priest in charge of the cathedral. Father Collette, upon whom I also called, was under Government recognition, and received a salary of $50 a-month, which was equivalent to about £100 a-year. The brother of the king died and was buried whilst we were at Papeete, — the funeral being performed with royal honours, and a salute being fired from a battery. The gunboat Scorpion arrived in the harbour on the morning of Saturday, September 22, and the Vire despatch- vessel also came in the same afternoon. The former was a pretty-looking little vessel of 475 tons, and powerfully armed for her size, carrying two 5|-inch and two 4Tinch guns. She was under orders to return to France. I had made all arrangements for sailing on the morrow, wind and weather permitting, and having been unable to find a cook, I had FAREWELL TO TAHITI. 193 made up my mind to start without one. When all prepara tions had been made, I was informed that there was a local regulation requiring all vessels, including men-of-war, to give twenty-four hours' notice to the postal authorities before they left, in order that, if necessary, they might send a mail by them. We were therefore unable to leave before Monday, the 24th, and I spent the intervening Sunday in attending Mass in the morning at the cathedral, and entertaining Father Collette on board the yacht through the whole of the after noon. He was a charming old gentleman, with the courteous manners of the aneien rigime. He had been thirty-four years on the island, and he told me that he never expected nor desired to leave it again, and that his tomb had already been prepared for him. He was delighted with the yacht, and took an intelligent interest in seeing over it. The morning of the 24th proved absolutely calm, and though the wind got up in the afternoon, it blew straight in, so that, after all, we were unable to leave that day. In settling up accounts the harbour-master was good enough to waive all claim to dues, and charge us only the same rate of pilotage as a foreign gunboat. We dined with Mr D. at the Hotel de France, and he came on board after wards to bid us farewell. On parting, he kindly presented me with a dozen pairs of pearl shells, besides other varieties, and also a sample of vanilla. The pilot came off' at 7 A.M. of Tuesday, September 25, and shortly afterwards we got under way. We were helped along with a good fresh breeze at first, but it gradually fell off", and we were becalmed several times during the day. The weather was dull, cloudy, and showery, and we did not see the sun for the whole of the day. We were now bound for the Samoa Islands, 1300 miles W.N.W. of us. During the first four days the wind, though aft, was generally light, and at times the sails flapped about without doing much work. The rolling of the sea 2 B 194 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. was very heavy almost the whole time, and I do not think I have ever known the yacht roll about so disagreeably before. We made, however, very fair progress, running on an average about 140 miles a-day. On Sunday, September 30, we were favoured by a very strong breeze ; the con sequence was that the day's run was the best we had yet made since starting on our voyage, beating the previous record by eight miles. On taking observations at noon we found that we had run 252 miles in the last twenty-four hours. The ship, however, continued to roll so heavily that it was impossible to hold divine service that day. Monday, October 1, was much calmer, and a heavy shower of rain which fell in the afternoon made the air quite fresh and agreeable. There was a good breeze all the morning, but it dropped considerably in the evening. We ran, how ever, 204 miles. A great pet on board died that day. It was the second of two tame rabbits which we had got at Speedwell Island in the previous December. It had some how sustained an injury to its mouth, which was evidently the cause of death. We had hoped to take it safely home, and every one was sorry that the poor little thing died. At eleven the next morning. Rose Island, the first of the Samoan group, was sighted from the mast-head. Then Manua came into view, and we were abreast of it at 10.30 p.m. The Samoan group is composed of thirteen islands, three only of which are of any importance. The largest is Savaii, which has an area of 700 square miles ; Upolu, the next in size, and 500 square miles, is really the principal island, and contains the capital where the king resides. The group was first discovered by Bougainville, who called it Les lies des Navigateurs on account of the skill with which the natives managed their canoes. A good breeze lasted all night, and at daybreak next morning we saw the island of Tutuila; its hills thickly PAGOPAGO. 195 wooded to their summits, and numerous villages situated on the shore. We anchored in Pagopago harbour at noon — an excellent port, completely landlocked, and sheltered from all wind. Its length is nearly three miles, from the entrance to the village of Pago at its head, from which we anchored at about one mile distant. The scenery was very beautiful, and the vegetation luxuriant in the extreme. The hills on all sides of the bay were one mass of foliage; there were also signs of life and prosper ity all around the shore, houses and villages appearing everywhere. The harbour seemed thickly populated, and we were in undated with vis itors ; our arrival attracted quite a fleet of canoes. The natives were a fine set of men, the majority of whom understood and spoke a little Eng lish. The men were tattooed on their sides, thighs, and body, some of the patterns being very elaborate, and they had a curious fashion of dressing their hair, which was plastered over with wet lime, giving their heads the appearance of a fashionable London footman. The women were much more simple in their appearance, and contented themselves with a few tattoo-marks on their arms. After Native girl — Samoa. 196 A WAR-CANOE. lunching we went ashore to a small village opposite to which we were lying. It contained about a couple of dozen houses, a few canoe-sheds, and a disused Independent church. The houses were quite different in their construction from any that we had seen elsewhere. Some were circular and others oval, and they were formed by stout posts driven into the ground several feet apart, mats being hung around the sides. The roofs were thatched, and the flooring was composed of small stones firmly beaten down until they had become smooth and level. Most of the houses were provided with two circular fireplaces in the centre, around which mats were spread. The natives were very friendly and communicative, pressing me to enter their houses and sit down. I bought in one place a piece of tappa prettily stamped in colours, and in another a couple of wooden spears. The tappa is made from the pith of the bread-fruit tree, and is used for bed-covers and wrappers. Soon after our return to the yacht. Father Forestier, a French missionary, came off and called upon us. He was an agreeable man, courteous and hospitable, and he invited us to visit his mission on the following day. At 5 p.m. we went in the launch to Pagopago. This was nothing more than a village not much larger than one we had previously seen, the houses being of similar construction. As we were returning to the boat, we saw a large war-canoe entering the port, and we therefore waited till it was beached, when I examined it. It had two hulls, joined together by transverse beams, and was decked over. A small house stood on the deck, and the canoe was provided with one enormous sail made of matting. No nails were used in its construction, everything being fastened together with cocoa-nut fibre. The total length of the canoe was about 40 feet, and there was an old iron gun in the bows. On returning to the yacht I found her deck swarming with natives, many of whom had brought off curiosities for sale, — the principal being beauti- THE FRENCH CATHOLIC MISSION. 197 fully carved war-clubs of different patterns, and apparently very old. Several of these I purchased. The French Catholic Mission, presided over by Father Forestier, which we visited on the following morning, was situated about half-way up the harbour, and consisted of one house built in European style, one room being fltted up and used as a chapel. A few native houses around the mission-house were used as schoolrooms, dormitories, &c. The Mission was supported by the Society for the Propa gation of the Faith, who paid the priest the magnificent sum of 200 dollars, about equivalent to £33 sterling a- year. On this miserable pittance the priest had to live his lonely life amongst the natives, scarcely ever seeing a European, and without even the hope of returning to Eu rope to cheer him ; for unless his health was so completely broken down as to totally unfit him to perform his duties, it is an understood thing in the Catholic Church that a mis sion priest is to live and die amongst the people whom he has undertaken to Christianise. I condoled with Father Forestier on the exceedingly small sum that he received, when in the simplest tones, and without aff"ectation, he re plied, " C'est assez. Le bon Dieu nous aidera." It would have been impossible for any one, however Protestant he might have been, not to admire the courage and devotion shown by the priest, who, after all, was one of a great num ber of a similar type scattered throughout the world. It was low water when we attempted to land, and we were compelled to go a mile farther down, and walk to the mission-house through the woods. After a short conver sation with Father Forestier we accompanied him to the schoolroom. No sooner were we seated than a procession of children and a few grown-up people appeared, all decorated with wreaths of flowers and leaves, and every one carrying something in his hand, either a mat, or fruit, or pieces of tappa, or some offering, while two men were 198 AN INTERESTING VISIT. dragging a fowl each by a piece of string tied to its leg. They filed into the schoolroom one by one, and as they passed in front of us they laid these offerings at our feet. After this they all sat down in a circle, and an old man made a speech in the Samoan language. The burden of this, as interpreted to us by Father Forestier, was that they wel comed us, and begged us to honour them by accepting their presents, and that they hoped we would have a prosper ous voyage when we left. In reply I made a short speech, which was translated by the Father, after which singing commenced. The songs, which of course were in the native tongue, were accompanied with much swaying of the body and limbs, in which all kept time together as perfectly as any tro%i,pe of ballet-dancers in England. They con cluded with the hymn Tantimi ergo in Latin, before singing which they carefully removed all their flowers and decora tions. The singing was delightfully simple, earnest, and impressive ; and we were all much pleased with what we saw and heard. There was no regular church at the mission as yet ; but Father Forestier had begun to build one, being his own carpenter, architect, and in a great measure his own workman. There is no doubt that in this and similar islands the Catholic mission meets with far greater success than those of the Protestant communities ; and the principal rea son for this, I believe, is, that the priests do not interfere with the innocent amusements of the natives, and do not impose any petty and vexatious regulations upon them ; whereas, in most of the islands which are strongholds of Protestantism, dancing, however harmless, is strictly for bidden, and smoking is preached against as a deadly sin. I have even known natives to be prohibited from bathing on Sundays ; and in some cases the converts are expected to provide themselves with shoddy European garments pur chased at the mission store. At three o'clock in the afternoon we received a visit RELIGIOUS SECTS IN THE ISLANDS. 199 from a Mormon missionary, who came to beg for milk and groceries for a baby of his who was sick. We supplied him with all that he required, and he went away very grateful. At four o'clock Father Forestier came on board to tea accompanied by thirty of his mission children. They all appeared to enjoy themselves heartily, and especially did ample justice to their tea, to judge from the amount of bread and jam which they consumed. Afterwards, to the great delight of the sailors, they sang a number of songs similar to those which we had heard and witnessed in the morning. It is certainly a very unfortunate thing for the natives the introduction of Mormon missionaries ; it is more than sufficient that there should already be both Independents and Catholics on these small islands, without another sect coming to make further dissension. The French and Belgian missionary priests are a devoted body of men, gentlemen by birth — at least, all those I have met — who have freely given up, without hope of reward in this world, everything that can make life worth living, and who simply live for the sake of doing good to others. The Protestant mission aries, on the contrary, who usually belong to some obscure sect, are men from a lower class of life, not particularly well educated, and who generally have an eye to the main chance — in short, in many cases they are traders first and mis sionaries afterwards. Heavy rain fell during the night, and the following morn ing it was blowing half a gale. It was therefore impossible to sail, and we went on shore for a short time before lunch to watch the natives fishing. They used a sort of seine, but instead of being a twine net, it was composed of quantities of dried leaves and rushes strung closely together on a cord. Although it appeared a strange-looking article it evidently answered its purpose well, for when it was hauled ashore it contained a vast number of small fish closely resembling sprats. I was informed of a curious fact — namely, that .j^2SS SAMOAN WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS. A, Kava-bowl. B, Wooden spear. C, Comb. D, War-club. E, Carved board for printing designs on tappa. CURIO-HUNTING. 201 during the last eighteen months some poisonous disease had appeared amongst the fish, in consequence of which several deaths had occurred amongst the natives after eating them, although before that time they had been perfectly wholesome. After lunch I saw a turtle swimming about at a distance of forty yards from the yacht. I fired at it with a Martini-Henry rifle, and the bullet passed through its neck. A native immediately paddled off to it, dived, turned it on its back, and brought it on board. It was not very large, but its shell was exceedingly handsome. In the afternoon I again visited the village of Pagopago, where I bought several curious antique clubs, baskets, a handsome kava-bowl, some fish-hooks resembling those which I had obtained in the Marquesas and at Tahiti, except that they were smaller and that the barb was made of tortoise-shell instead of bone. This was the best place I had yet visited for curiosities, though the natives were fully aware of their value. We were now almost exactly twelve hours different in time from England, and although Samoa is in west longitude, the people keep the same day of the week as if they were on the other side of the 180° meridian. They were therefore one day ahead of us ; it being Friday according to our reckoning, and Saturday according to theirs. The wind moderated during the afternoon and evening, and as next morning it was blowing straight in, it took some time to beat out against it. We got under way at 8 A.M., and managed to clear the harbour. Once outside we found ourselves a good deal knocked about by the tossing sea, but there was a nice fresh breeze on, which, however, soon dropped after we had cleared the S.E. point of the island. From that time until 4 p.m. we did not do more than two knots an hour ; but the wind then freshened, and we soon sighted the island of Upolu. I had given a native a passage to Apia, and he employed himself all the afternoon in clean- 2 c 202 APIA HARBOUR. ing and polishing my turtle-shell. At 9.20 P.M. we hove to to wait for daylight. At daybreak next morning we found ourselves five miles off the island, and by 8 A.M. we were safely at anchor in Apia harbour. We had taken a pilot on board going in, though there was really no occasion for us to do so, the entrance being quite simple and without any difficulties. In the port we found H.M.S. Calliope and Lizard, the former flying the flag of Rear- Admiral Fairfax, C.B., com mander-in-chief of the Australian station. Besides these the U.S.S. Adams and the German gunboat Adler were also lying in the harbour. As soon as we anchored we were boarded by an officer from the Calliope, who had been sent by the Admiral to make inquiries about us and to offer us any assistance in his power. At ten o'clock I landed, taking with me some letters with which I had been intrusted by Father Forestier for the Catholic Mission. Father Reme, the priest in charge, received me cordially. I found him an aff'able and gentlemanly man. The Catholic Church was a neat little edifice in the centre of Apia, which simply con sisted of a line of houses straggling along the shore. On leaving Father Rem^ I went to call on Colonel de C, the British Consul, also Deputy Commissioner for the Western Pacific. He was a retired officer, and had served both in the English and Egyptian forces, having also been with Gordon on the Nile. At the time of my visit he had only been in office at Samoa a month. After lunching on board I called on the Admiral and officers of the Calliope and Lizard : the captain of the latter supplied me with a great deal of useful information about the New Hebrides. Afterwards I steamed round the harbour in the launch ; but it was not a good place for boating about in, as it was very full of reefs. In the evening I dined and passed a most delightful few hours at the British Consulate. The civil war in the Samoas was then at its height. It THE CIVIL WAR IN SAMOA. 203 appeared from what I could learn that the Germans were chiefly responsible for this. For some time past they had been interfering greatly with the internal affairs of the islands, and had at length deposed the native ruler. King Malietoa, sending him as a State prisoner to the Marshal Islands, and setting up in his place a chief of their own choosing who was named Tamasese. The majority of the natives, including the principal chiefs, had naturally re fused to recognise this arrangement, resenting foreign inter ference in their domestic affairs ; they had accordingly elected a man named Mataafa as their king, upon which both parties declared war against the other. The adherents of Tamasese were numerically the smaller of the two, and at the time of our visit they were intrenched at one end of the town under the protection of the guns of the Adler, who had also landed her marines to strengthen them. The followers of Mataafa were encamped at the other end, the distance between the two forces being somewhere about three miles. Several small encounters had already taken place, and a few people had been killed on both sides. Had it not been for the protection afforded by the German ship, Tamasese's party would have been annihilated long since. But Mataafa did not dare to attack their stronghold, as the Adler had threatened to open fire upon him. A tropical torrent of rain poured down the whole of the next morning up to noon, when the sky suddenly cleared and the rest of the day was fine. The rain was certainly the heaviest we had seen for a long time, and we almost filled our tanks with it. At two o'clock an excitement was caused both to those on shore and to us on our vessels as Tamasese's people went in their canoes to attack Mataafa's position. They did not venture to land, however, but kept up a brisk fire for about half an hour from behind a reef. So far as we could judge there were no casualties on either side, the range being too great, though both parties were well supplied with 204 H.M.S. CALLIOPE. good breech-loading rifles. In the evening I dined with the Admiral on the Calliope, meeting there some of the officers from the American man-of-war Adams, and also a few civilians. The Admiral had just negotiated a treaty by which Tamasese and Mataafa had bound themselves to regard the town and a certain distance around it as neutral ground, and had agreed to allow no firing within these limits. This treaty had become very necessary, for several accidents had already occurred. One Englishman had been shot dead about a month before, and several bullets had been lodged in the Consulate and neighbouring houses. That very after noon two bullets entered the pilot's house. The sympathies of the English and Americans were entirely with Mataafa, and all on board the Calliope whom I met at dinner agreed in thinking that the Germans had acted in an unjustifiably high-handed manner in deposing one king and setting up another contrary to the wish of the great majority of the natives. The Prime Minister was simply a tool of Germany, and had been the main instrument used for the change which had been wrought, in consequence of which he was exceed ingly unpopular. His name was Brandeis. At half -past one next afternoon, Tuesday, October 9, having paid farewell calls in the morning at the Consulate and on the men-of-war, and having laid in some provisions from MArthur's store, we weighed our anchor and set sail for Tongatabu, with a native on board to whom I was giving a passage. 205 CHAPTEE XXL A RAPID PASSAGE TO TONGATABU EOA ISLAND NIUKALOFA H.M.S. EGERIA THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS — MUA " THE EMERALD ISLE OF THE PACIFIC " TUGI A NATIVE DRINK KALUGA AN ENORMOUS CAVE A WONDERFUL COLLECTION OF CURIOS ITIES POLITICAL AFFAIRS IN TONGA A STRONG GALE WE LEAVE TONGA BOUND FOR FIJI THE 180° MERIDIAN A SUC CESSION OP ISLANDS VITI LEVU WE ANCHOR IN SUVA HARBOUR. October 10-23, 1888. Favoueed by a tolerably fair wind, though the weather was thick and rain falling at intervals, we accomplished the 560 miles between Apia and Tongatabu in four and a half days. The poor unfortunate Samoan native was terribly sea-sick the whole time, and did not once leave the quarters which he had taken up in the launch from the time of sailing until he reached the harbour. The island of Eoa was sighted at half-past five in the afternoon of Saturday, October 13, and at half -past six the following morning we bore up for Tongatabu. The appearance of Eoa island from the deck of our yacht was quite different from anything that we had lately seen. The country seemed to be all bright green turf without any trees ; and notwithstanding the want of these, the landscape was very picturesque. We hove to off Eoajii island in the hope of picking up a pilot, but as none came off we were compelled to proceed alone. The channel abounded with 206 NIUKALOFA HARBOUR. reefs, and was exceedingly difficult and dangerous ; but for tunately we had an excellent chart of it on a large scale, and when we had passed the worst places a native pilot appeared, whom we took on board. We arrived and anchored in Niukalofa harbour at a quarter-past 8 A.M. There we found H.M.S. Egeria, as also the Richmond, a small steamer which we had met at Tahiti. Captain A. of the Egeria called soon after we had anchored, and invited us to spend the afternoon on board his ship. He had been at Tongatabu for four months, the ship being engaged on a special survey. At noon we landed at a very good stone mole which runs out some 500 yards from the shore. The town of Niukalofa, though small, is clean, and contrasts most favourably with those of the other islands which we had lately visited. The ground is very level, the highest point on the island not rising more than 60 feet above the sea. Where the vegetation has been cleared away, the island is everywhere covered with beautiful green turf. The houses are dotted about without regard to regularity, which certainly adds to their effect. There were several European houses to be seen, though most of them were built in the native fash ion. A custom-house and Government offices faced the sea, being simply plain wooden buildings. The king's pal ace is a pretty-looking wooden villa, standing in a garden well laid out with flowers and shrubs. Beside it was a chapel, which was by far the most imposing building in Niu kalofa, though also constructed of wood; it had two neat towers. The appearance of the place on the whole was decidedly prepossessing, and I returned to my yacht much pleased with my first impressions of it. In the afternoon we went, according to invitation, on board H.M.S. Egeria, where we had the pleasure of meeting the captain's wife. At the conclusion of our visit there we again went ashore, and walked first to a church standing THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS. 207 on a knoll above the town, where was a memorial which had been erected to the memory of Captain Croker, R.N., who was killed at the stockade of Bea whilst attempting to carry it by assault. From the summit of this knoll, of which I have already spoken as the highest point of the island, I obtained a fine view of the town and the sur rounding country. I then called on Mr L., British Vice- Consul, also a Deputy Commissioner for the Western Pacific. His house, which is of native construction, has already been described by Mr Lambert in his ' Voyage of the Wanderer.' The group of islands, of which there are thirty-two in habited, were discovered by Tasman in 1643, and were given their present name of Friendly Islands by Cook. Tongatabu, the principal island, is 23 miles long and 8 miles broad, having an area of 128 square miles. The climate is mild and damp, the average temperature being 76°, and earthquakes are frequent. The chief exports are copra, sugar, coffee, and cotton, — the total value in 1888 being £66,473. The imports during the same year amounted to £48,736. The population, which was at one time estimated at nearly 50,000, had diminished in 1884 to 22,937. The whole group was united under one sovereign in the early part of the nineteenth century, and a constitutional Govern ment was formed in 1862. The treaty signed at Berlin between England and Germany in 1886, provides for the neutrality of this little kingdom. Early next morning I started in my launch, accompanied by the head pilot, whose name was Friday, to visit Mua, the old capital of the island. The sea was choppy, and we took over us a great deal of spray. A strong tide, moreover, was running out of the lagoon, and it was as much as the launch could do to make head against it. We reached Mua at a quarter to nine, and found ourselves in a pretty spot, the ground being everywhere covered with bright grassy turf, with fine old trees scattered about, reminding one very 208 A NATIVE DRINK. much of an English park. So green does this island of Tongatabu appear, that it might justly be entitled "The Emerald Isle of the Pacific." Our first business was to go and pay our respects to the chief, whose name was Tugi. He is the head chief of the island, and ranks next to the king. Tugi was an immensely stout man, weighing, roughly speaking, at least 25 stone. Having expressed his gratification at our visit, he ordered hava to be prepared, which was done by pounding the root of the kava plant between stones until it was reduced to a powder, then putting it into a wooden bowl, especially kept for the purpose, and pouring water on it. The woman who was making it then took a bundle of fibre and ran the liquor through it several times. The decoction was then completed, and poured into cocoa-nut shells and handed round. It had a pungent bitter taste, and I thought it ex ceedingly nasty ; but the natives are excessively fond of it. There is some special ceremony connected with its use, and the fact of its being prepared for me was a sign that Tugi wished to pay me particular attention. In the less civilised islands the root is chewed instead of being ground between stones. It is considered that when taken in large quanti ties, kava has the effect of temporarily paralysing the lower limbs, whilst leaving the faculties clear. Having drunk our kava, and bidden farewell to our host, we started on horseback to visit an ancient stone monument at a place called Kaluga. This we reached after an hour's delightful ride over a perfectly wild grassy tract through the forest. I did not consider that there was much of inter est in the monument, which resembled a gateway composed of two upright stones about 12 feet high, and the third one laid across the top and mortised into the other two. The natives have, I believe, no traditions to account either for its purpose or its presence ; but it certainly is, rather curious to find in this out-of-the-way island an erection so AN ENORMOUS CAVE. 209 closely corresponding to the dolmens which abound in Syria and other countries of the East, to say nothing of the druid- ical remains which are to be viewed at Stonehenge and else where in England. After resting for a short time at Kaluga we rode on eight miles, in order to visit a cave situated close to the sea about two miles from Mua. As we had announced our intention of seeing this place before we had left the village, some boys had been sent with torches to meet us. These were necessary, as the track and the entrance to it were so narrow that one had to crawl in on hands and knees. Inside, however, it was very roomy, and about three hundred yards from the entrance we came to a large vault where was a pool of water, and the roof of which was hung with sta lactites. The common tradition amongst the natives had been that the pool was bottomless ; but unfortunately for this ¦ illusion, the Egeria's lead-line had proved it to be only 14 feet deep. One of the boys climbed on to a ledge over hanging the water, then dived, and afterwards swam about with a torch in his hand to show us the extent of the place. The cave is considered to extend at least a distance of two miles from its mouth, and it has no known exit. After leav ing the cave we returned to Mua to bid good-bye to Tugi, and in parting from him I presented him with a bottle of beer, which he seemed greatly to appreciate. The day's excursion had been interesting and enjoyable, and my ride had enabled me to form a good idea of the nature and capabilities of the . island. After dinner the British Vice-Consul, Mr L., came off and spent the evening on the yacht. We had fully intended to have gone on our way the next morning ; but as usual, it was blowing too hard to allow us to make the start. Besides this, I found the chief officer suffering apparently from fever, and I therefore went ashore to bring Dr B. off to the yacht to see him. I also returned and went to his house when he left the yacht, to bring back the medicines which he had prescribed. 2 D 210 POLITICAL AFFAIRS IN TONGA. He lived in a comfortable home, with a pretty garden, and he had a wonderful collection of curiosities which he had obtained among the different islands of the Pacific. He was one of the very few white men who had lived in the Solomon Islands, and had penetrated into their interior. On my way back to the yacht I called at the Consulate, and then visited the king's chapel, which I found tidily and well kept inside, and fitted up with handsome wood-work imported from New Zealand. A gorgeous arm-chair stood in the royal pew, with a carved and gilded crown above it. In the after noon I again went ashore, to pay my account for pilotage at the harbour-master's office, but was agreeably surprised to be informed that no charge was made to yachts for pilot ser vices. St Michael's in the Azores was the only place in which I had ever been before where a similar excellent rule prevailed. We had been invited to lawn-tennis at the Con sulate afterwards. Unfortunately heavy rain came on, and we had to take refuge in the house, where I learned from Mr L. a great deal about the existing condition of political mat ters in Tonga. King George was then in his ninety-fourth year, and was the original king under whom the group had been united more than seventy years ago. He was at the time of my visit completely under the thumb of his prime minister, Mr Shirley Baker, who virtually ruled the island. This man had formerly been a Wesleyan missionary in Tonga, but owing to some pecuniary scandal he had been expelled from the Church. In order to avenge himself he had established a sect, to which he had given the name of a free church. To this church he endeavoured by every means in his power to force the natives to conform, and I was in formed that those who refused had frequently by his order been strung up and flogged. For his services as prime minister he was receiving a salary of £800 a-year, which was a very large sum in proportion to the small revenue THE PRIME MINISTER. 211 of the kingdom. It was, however, according to all accounts, nothing to be compared with what he had made indirectly. Indeed, to minister to his appetites and indulgences, the whole nation was then being grievously ground down by taxation. No justice whatever could be obtained in the Tongan courts, and the whole state of rule in the island was at that time as bad as it could possibly be. An attempt had recently been made to assassinate Baker, who was fired at whilst out driving with his daughter. The latter was slightly wounded, but Baker himself escaped scot-free. For this attempt six men were executed, though it was notorious that four of them were perfectly innocent. It was commonly reported in Tonga that Baker's life would not be worth an hour's purchase after the old king's death. Mr L. informed me that the Governor of Fiji had the power of removing Baker from the island, and it certainly seemed a grievous pity that he did not exercise it, and thus free the country from a minister who was execrated by every one, and was the author of so much evil.^ The wind was blowing in furious gusts as I returned to the yacht at half-past six, taking with me a man to whom I had promised a passage to San Francisco in consideration of his acting as cook. The following day the wind was still blowing a gale, and as the pilot declined to take us out of the harbour, there was nothing to be done but to remain in patience. Towards the evening the wind and sea went down consid erably, and the following morning broke fine, with a light fair breeze. The pilot came off at half-past six, and we got under way soon after eight. It was nearly eleven, however, before we cleared the harbour, for the wind was very light, and we were frequently becalmed. After dinner it freshened a little, and we went along at a better speed. A shark was seen swimming in our wake, and we therefore baited and ^ This has since been done. 212 FIJI ISLANDS. lowered a hook. In a very few moments we had him safely on board. This was the second shark which we had caught since leaving home, and it was only a small one. We were now making for the Fiji Islands, which lay about 420 miles N.W. of us. For a day and a half we had very little wind, and conse quently did not run at the rate of more than three knots an hour; but on Saturday, October 20, a fine breeze sprang up shortly after noon, sending us along at about eight knots the whole of the rest of the day. We passed Turtle Island in the afternoon : a very dangerous reef, on which we could see the sea breaking heavily, extended for a considerable distance from the island. In the evening we sighted a sail, apparently a coaster. During the night between October 20 and 21 we crossed the 180th parallel, thus losing a day, and causing us to mark this which should have been Sunday, October 21, as Monday, 22. We coasted close to the island of Matuku that morn ing, and sighted Totoya at half-past eight. At 3 p.m. we sighted Moala, and at nine in the evening saw the light off' the eastern point of Viti Levu. This was a fine flashing light, with a half-minute interval, and visible clearly at least 12 miles off. As we dared not venture nearer in the dark, we hove to at 10 P.M. until daybreak next morning, when the island be came fully exposed to our view, with the exception of the tops of the mountains, which were shrouded in mist. We could make no headway until eleven o'clock, when a nice breeze sprang up, sending us past the lighthouse which we had seen the night before, and which we now found to be placed on the edge of the barrier-reef surrounding the island, close beside it lying the wreck of a small vessel. The rain came on during lunch-time, and continued heavily throughout the remainder of the day. At three o'clock we were boarded by a pilot, and anchored in Suva harbour half an hour later. SUVA HARBOUR. 213 The entrance from the reef was three cables wide, and a pilot was not actually necessary ; but as there was no large- scale plan of the place aboard, I thought it safer to have one. At half-past four, having seen the health officer and obtained pratique from him, we landed at a good wooden pier and wharf, alongside which steamers could lie to take in or discharge cargo. There was little to be seen in the town itself, which, however, had some good stores. We dined at Sturt's hotel, the landlord from whom the place took its name being an interesting man who had lived on the islands for upwards of seventeen years, and had a most magnificent collection of weapons, shells, and other curiosities from the various islands in the Pacific. Every room in the hotel was adorned with them, and they completely covered the walls of the dining and billiard rooms. An excellent dinner was provided for us, after which we sat under the verandah, and then returned on board, getting very wet, as the rain was steadily coming down in torrents. The Government sur veyor, Mr M., whom we had met at the hotel at dinner, informed me that 108 inches of rain had fallen at Suva between the 1st January and 30th September of that year, although the supposed wet season had not yet commenced. For the last few weeks it had been raining without inter ruption. 214 CHAPTER XXn. HISTORY OF THE FIJI ISLANDS CONTINUOUS RAIN THE LABOUR QUESTION IN FIJI AGRICULTURAL PROSPERITY A NARROW ESCAPE FROM CANNIBALS FIJIAN CURIOSITIES WE LEAVE POR NEW CALEDONIA WALPOLE ISLAND NOUMEA A NAT URALIST'S MUSEUM — ANOTHER DISAGREEABLE EXPERIENCE ON BOARD VISIT TO A LOCAL .INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION THE CON VICT BAND A REMARKABLE BAND-MASTER. October 24-31, 1888, The Fiji Islands were discovered by Tasman on the 5th March 1643, and named by him Prinz Willhems Eylanden. Turtle Island was discovered by Cook in 1773. Bligh visited them in the Bounty's launch after the mutiny in 1789. D'Urville partially surveyed them in 1827 ; but the first complete survey was made by the U.S. exploring expedi tion in 1840. There are altogether no fewer than 250 islands in the group, and of these about 80 are inhabited. Their total area is 8034 square miles. The largest and most important is Viti Levu, 80 miles long and 55 miles broad, though Vanua Lava is longer, extending 100 miles by 25. The climate of the Fiji Islands is warm and damp ; the mean temperature for the year being about 80°. December to April are called the hurricane months, and of these February and March are the worst. The population has considerably decreased of late years, having been computed to number at least 200,000 in 1839, and about 140,000 at the time of the annexation in HISTORY OP THE FIJI ISLANDS. 215 1874. Shortly after that, over 40,000 were carried off by measles, and at present the whole population, including the island of Rotumah, is 124,441, of which 111,311 are Fijians, 2115 Europeans, and 11,015 natives of other islands and Chinese. Almost all the natives are Christians, in the pro portion of about 100,000 Wesleyans and 10,000 Catholics. The Wesleyans were established long before the latter, hav ing first landed in 1835. The islands were annexed to Eng land in 1874 under the following constitution ; — Thakombau and the principal chiefs had already offered the islands to England in 1858. The offer at that time was not accepted. In 1871 a constitutional government was formed by the aid of certain Englishmen. In 1874 this constitution came to a deadlock, and the British Government stepped in, took up Thakombau's previous offer, and annexed the islands. The colony is in a prosperous condition, the public income in 1888 being £65,018, and the expenditure £58,993. The principal exports are copra, cotton, coffee, and sugar; their total value amounting in 1888 to £376,978, the correspond ing imports being £183,221. Government land at Suva is estimated to be worth from £75 to £300 an acre. There are several important rivers in the Fiji Islands, the principal being the Rewa, which is navigable for ships of light draught 40 miles up from its mouth. The natives are skilful boat-builders, and make excellent mats and baskets, as well as good pottery. The day after our arrival rain continued to pour almost without intermission from morning to night. I went ashore at eleven, and having ordered a few things that were required, I defied the weather and strolled about the town. The great variety of types which were visible amongst the natives at tracted my attention. Besides the Fijians themselves, there are many immigrants from the New Hebrides, Solomon, Gilbert, and other Pacific groups. These have generally been im ported to work in the sugar plantations, having been engaged 216 " BLACKBIRDING. " for a term of three years, at the expiration of which time they are sent back to their homes. The old labour trade, which used to be called " Blackbirding," is now a thing of the past. The recruiting vessels are obliged to carry a Government agent, and from the time that the natives leave their own islands until they return to them on the expiration of the contract they are well looked after and cared for, and in addition they receive just and liberal wages. The Fijians as a race are tall and powerful, and most of them have enor mous heads of hair, which they wear all frizzed out. After lunching on board, I landed at the Government jetty, and walked up to the house of the Governor, which was large, roomy, and pleasantly situated in the midst of pretty grounds on a hill overlooking the harbour. Having had an interesting and agreeable half-hour's conversation with his Excellency, I returned to the yacht ; but after tea I once more landed again. My principal object on this occa sion was to inspect a collection of curiosities which an officer of the Customs department had advertised for sale. They consisted almost entirely of articles from the Solomon Islands, and I purchased a few that I fancied the most. I also got a few photos and some more curios from a photographer's in the place. I had been very anxious to make an expedi tion up the Rewa, being desirous to gain some idea of the resources of the country, and to see what is said to be the largest sugar-mill in the world, which is situated on that river. I was, however, reluctantly compelled to relinquish the idea, as the weather continued so abominably wet. The sugar industry had been for some years past in a languishing condition, and the planters in consequence had suffered con siderably. Times, however, had in some measure changed, and at the time of my visit the prospect was much more fa vourable. Tea was also cultivated with considerable success in the Fiji Islands, being of an excellent quality and with a peculiar flavour of its own, not altogether unlike the best In- GOVERNMENT HOUSE, SUVA, FIJI. NARROW ESCAPE FROM CANNIBALS. 217 dian tea. It was largely consumed in Australia, but had not as yet found its way to the London market. Bananas and pine-apples were also largely exported, and whilst we were at Suva a steamer was there loading 20,000 bunches of the former for New Zealand. On Thursday, October 25, we lunched with Dr and Mrs C, whose house stood a little way out of the town, on the hill at the back of the Government buildings. There we met Mr F. C, the Chief-Justice of the colony. Soon after my return on board six of the principal chiefs came to call on me, being also anxious to inspect the ship. They were an exceedingly handsome, polite, and dignified lot of men, and two of them spoke English fairly well. One was a relative of Thakom bau, and had been chiefly instrumental in ceding the island to the British crown. Mr M. dined with us in the evening, and I was particularly anxious to hear his opinion about the cannibalism which is said by some to still exist in the Fiji Islands. He told me that he believed that it might be considered to have become extinct, though he would not absolutely guarantee that isolated cases did not occur even then amongst the remote mountain tribes. He had had some strange and rather startling experiences in that line, as eight years before, whilst- he was staying at a village in the hills, the natives were cooking a baby in the next hut to him. Moreover, seven years before that, he himself had had an exceedingly narrow escape of being killed and eaten. He had been taken prisoner, and was tied up ready to be killed and cooked. The fires had even been lit, and the oven prepared before his very eyes in which he was to be baked ; but fortunately for him his captors all got drunk, and he succeeded with difficulty in making his escape. He was shortly about to make an expedition inland, and he kindly promised to secure for me some cannibal forks and dishes and send them to Melbourne. It is most difficult to get genuine articles such as these forks and dishes at the pres- 2 E 218 UNSETTLED WEATHER. ent time, though imitations are largely manufactured for the benefit of strangers. Next day, Friday, October 26, though it was still pouring with rain, I determined to put to sea again ; therefore after breakfast I went ashore and settled up our bill at Mark's stores, where I found the prices more reasonable than at any other port where I had called. I paid a farewell visit to Mr S., who kindly gave me a dozen Solomon Island arrows. Returning to the yacht at half-past twelve, we got under way an hour later, and ran out of the harbour without a pilot. As soon as we got into the open we encountered a strong breeze, with squalls and rain. I felt considerable regret on leaving the Fiji Islands at not having seen more of them. I had been particularly anxious to ascend the river Rewa, and also I had been very desirous of seeing something of the inner life, manners, and customs of the natives in the inland districts, where they have not yet been exposed to the same influences of civilisation as in the town and sea ports. The weather, however, had been so bad that even if it had been possible to make these excursions, there could have been no real pleasure or enjoyment in them ; and there seemed little or no prospect of the rain clearing off. Suva itself was a disappointing town, much smaller and more insignificant than I had been led to anticipate. It seems strange that the climate should be considered as healthy as it is ; for owing to the heavy rainfall and constant damp, one would have expected that the weather would have been very trying to the constitution. We were now bound for Noumea in New Caledonia, and we took the Kandavu passage. A very heavy sea continued for the next two days, but towards the close of the second day the sky began to clear, and the sun shone out brightly. Monday, October 29, was a beautiful day, with a smooth sea and a fresh breeze, an experience unusual and exhilarat ing. In the course of the afternoon we passed within a mile NEW CALEDONIA. 219 of AValpole Island, which, as we approached it from the north, presented an appearance of an oblong table. It is entirely surrounded by perpendicular cliffs about 200 feet high, on the sides of which are numerous caves. The top ai^peared perfectly level, and covered with bushes ; but so far as we could see, the island was unapproachable, there being no place where a boat could land, nor auy possibil ity of anchorage off it. Naturally, therefore, the island is uninhabited and unclaimed. It appeared to be a resort of frigate and other birds, which were hovering over it in vast quantities. At daybreak next morning we sighted the island of New Caledonia, but the barrier-reef extends to such a dis tance off it that we did not arrive abreast of the entrance to the Bulari , passage until two o'clock p.m. There we were boarded by a pilot opposite the lighthouse, a very fine structure, which stands on Amedee Island, just inside the entrance. The passage was simple, and presents few difficulties. We had a strong fair wind with us, and we therefore arrived and anchored in Noumea harbour soon after half-past three. The port is spacious, and has good anchorage, being almost completely landlocked ; and the town presents an attractive appearance from the sea. The French gunboat Scorpion, which we had met at Tahiti, was lying in the harbour, as also another very small French vessel, which was used for local surveys. On landing we found the town clean and well laid out, showing the influ ence of French civilisation. The shops, which were numer ous, were of a better description than any we had seen since leaving Callao. The roads, which have all been constructed by convict labour, are quite as good as any in England. In the centre of the town is a large square, with a band-stand in the middle, amply provided with comfortable seats. : The streets are well paved, and fiacres are plentiful ; the horses which draw them are well-bred and strong. 220 A naturalist's MUSEUM. We drove at once to the British Consulate, which lay about 1| mile beyond the town. We found the Consul, Mr L., at home, and were hospitably received by him. He was an enthusiastic naturalist and botanist, and had a very complete and valuable collection of shells, birds, and plants, most of which he himself had gathered together in New Caledonia, Fiji, the New Hebrides, and Solomon Islands. He made us promise to return in the evening to dinner ; and meanwhile we continued our drive, taking a circuit of about flve miles round the town. We frequently passed large squads of convicts on their way back to prison at the close of their day's work in the quarries or on the roads. I was struck with the ill-favoured look that almost all of them bore, their features being impressed with the true criminal stamp. There were altogether 13,000 on the island, out of which large number only nine were English. At dinner I met Mr H. R., author of the 'Western Paciflc ' and other works, and we spent a most pleasant evening together. Mr L. showed us some of his most interesting curiosities ; those which delighted me most being perhaps some beautiful pearl shells, which had been most exquisitely carved by one of the convicts. Strange to say, I was told that mine was the flrst yacht that had ever visited Noumea. It seems a remarkable circumstance that one can scarcely touch at any place of importance without having some disagreeable experiences with one's men. On rising the next morning it was reported to me that James Millar, A.B., had been on shore the night before without leave, and had returned at 7 a.m. hopelessly drunk. This was the third or fourth time that such a thing had happened with, him ; and to make matters worse, whilst I was deliberating what I ought to do with him, two other of my men, Black and Macdonald, came and told me that they wished to leave the ship. I replied that I could not for a moment consent to their discharge, as it would be EXHIBITION OF LOCAL INDUSTRIES, 221 impossible for me at Noumea to get other men to replace them. Thereupon they expressed a desire to see the Consul, and I therefore went and saw Mr L., and arranged to bring them before him in the afternoon. At two o'clock, accord ingly, I took the men to the Consulate, and Mr L. informed them that as they had signed an undertaking to remain with me for three years, he would not sanction their discharge ; and he explained further to them that the ship's articles were as much for my protection as for theirs. This settled the matter, and the men returned to the ship. I went with Mr M., the United States Consul, to a shop where some carved shells were offered for sale, but I did not take a fancy to them, and the workmanship appeared to me defective ; and I therefore only bought one nautilus shell. I then drove to Government House and called on the acting Governor, but I found him a quiet, shy, retiring man, and our interview only lasted a few minutes. Afterwards I vis ited an exhibition of local industries and products of the island. The show was really highly creditable for so small a place as Noumea, — amongst the objects of interest being a quantity of arms and grotesquely carved figures from the New Hebrides and other islands in addition, and many specimens of work done by the New Caledonian convicts. Minerals were well represented in the exhibition, New Cal edonia being exceedingly rich in nickel and copper, whilst gold and chrome are found in small quantities, and coal of a poor quality also exists. The Government work the nickel and other mines with convict labour, but nevertheless these scarcely pay their expenses. We sat for some time in the exhibition listening to the convict band, which was very good, and whilst the strains of music were falling on my ears I was being informed of the band-master's history. He looked a mild enough man, but the crime for which he was suffering was a particularly horrible one, and eminently French in its details. He had 222 A REVOLTING CKIME. been a doctor, and having either real or imaginary cause to be jealous of his wife, he murdered her and cut up her body into small pieces, taking out the heart. Having invited the man whom he suspected to dinner, he served up her heart cooked ; and after his guest, ignorant of course of the real nature of the dish set before him, had eaten it, he calmly in formed him what he had done. He had been tried in France for the murder ; but the jury having found extenuating cir cumstances, he had been sent out to New Caledonia for life. It seemed perfectly incredible that a monster so inhuman could have been allowed to escape the death he so richly merited; and when I had heard his story I could scarcely take my eyes away from him, for it seemed impossible to believe that the man who so calmly was conducting the band could have been guilty of so revolting a crime. 223 CHAPTER XXm. HISTORY OP NEW CALEDONIA INTERESTING PARTICULARS CON CERNING THE CONVICTS AND LIBERtS EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR OP THE ISLAND THE CONVENT OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION THE MISSION STATION OF ST LOUIS DISCHARGE OF JAMES MILLAR, A.B. CONVICT ESTABLISHMENT ON ILE NOU A DISCOURTEOUS GOVERNOR CONDEMNED CRIMINALS EX ORBITANT PILOTAGE WE LEAVE NEW CALEDONIA LOYALTY ISLANDS THE NEW HEBRIDES ERROMANGO A QUAINTLY INTERESTING SERVICE ON SUNDAY MISSION LIFE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES. November 1-11, 1888. The island of New Caledonia was discovered by Cook in 1774, but it was not occupied by the French till 1853, when it was made into a penal settlement. Two thousand men of the infanterie de marine were quartered there at the time of our visit ; in addition to which was a battery of artillery, whose barracks were handsome buildings situated in a prom inent position upon a hill overlooking the harbour. The soldiers, who are stationed here for the purpose of guarding the convicts, generally serve three years on the island, after which they are sent back to France. New Caledonia is about 250 miles long, its average breadth being about 25 miles. Some portions of it are very mountainous — the highest peak, called Mount Humboldt, rising 5380 feet above the sea. The whole island is well wooded, much of the timber being of a very fine description. 224 PARTICULARS CONCERNING CONVICTS. From the British Consul, Mr L., who lunched with us on Thursday, November 1, I obtained some interesting particu lars concerning the libdris, as the French term their ticket- of-leave men. It appears that upon the release of a convict at the expiration of his time, or in consequence of good conduct, he is allowed by the authorities there two or three acres of land — the necessary implements for cultivation, together with the requisite seed, being at the same time supplied to him gratis. This plan was intended to give the convicts an opportunity of regaining an honest livelihood; but the system, excellent though it seems primd facie, does not appear to have proved a success. There are two causes to account for the failure. In the first place, by far the greater number of the convicts have lived in cities and towns during their former lives, and are therefore absolutely unacquainted with the principles of agriculture and are un fitted for a country life. Secondly, the soil on the island is miserably poor, and even under the most favourable cir cumstances of cultivation, could scarcely grow remunerative crops. The natural consequence has been, that these Iib6r6s have generally relapsed into crime, and proved a source of terror to their more respectable neighbours. Murder, burg lary, rape, and unnatural crimes are of frequent occurrence on the island ; and although severe punishment is nominally supposed to follow upon the conviction of any of these offences, the first three of which are capital crimes, yet as a matter of fact the punishment is so seldom carried into effect that the fear of consequences is no deterrent to the criminals. It has been stated that convicts frequently escape from New Caledonia, but this is by no means true. They often indeed escape from the prison and get away into the bush; but they cannot long exist there, as there are no cocoa-nuts or fruit upon which to sub sist, as might be the case on many other islands in the Pacific ; and, moreover, an escaped convict is certain to EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. 225 be recaptured before long, as a reward of 50 francs is a sufficiently tempting bait to induce the first native that meets him to lay his hands upon him. As for escape from the island itself, every ship is rigorously searched by the police before it leaves the harbour; and the only possible chance would be to steal a small boat and endeavour to make for the Australian coast, the chances being greatly against his safely accomplishing the passage across the open sea in such a frail vessel. Our colonists in Australia, there fore, need scarcely be in such a state of apprehension and uneasiness with regard to the New Caledonian convicts as has been manifested by them on more than one occasion. Friday, November 2, had been fixed upon by us for a drive into the country with Mr and Mrs L. The day was pleasant and cool, and soon after 8 a.m. we started on our way, bound for a place called La Coul(5e, distant 13 miles from Noumea, where we proposed to have our lunch. It was very delightful, after so many experiences that we had had of wretched paths, to find ourselves driven the whole way along a most excellent road, which has been constructed and is kept in repair by the convicts. We met several gangs of them at work upon the road in different places. The appearance of the country corroborated the Consul's state ment that it was unadapted for agriculture, the soil appear ing in many places to lie merely on the surface of the solid rock immediately below. On our way we stopped for a few minutes at the convent of the Immaculate Conception, the mother and sisters of which were all French. Their time is mainly occupied in female education. A short distance farther on we again halted to view the mission station of St Louis, an institution supported by the Society for the Propagation of the Faith ; and as is the case with all their missions, it appeared most admirably managed. There were three French priests in charge, and ninety native boys. These were taught French, 2 F 226 MISSION STATION OF ST LOUIS. reading, writing, arithmetic, and geography, and in addition to this they had an excellent technical education. We vis ited the workshops, where the boys were busily labouring, some learning to be carpenters, others blacksmiths, others wheelwrights, and so forth. All the arrangements connected with the mission buildings and grounds were really excel lent. The dormitories in particular excited our admiration, being large, airy, and scrupulously clean and tidy. The chapel was very pretty and the grounds well laid out — some very fair land for cultivation belonging to the mission, upon which sugar-cane, Indian corn, and vegetables were growing. The impression produced upon us by our visit to this mission station of St Louis was one of satisfaction and pleasure ; and subscribers to the Society for the Propagation of the Faith may rest assured that their money is well expended, and the greatest amount of good possible is done with it. At half-past ten we reached La Coulee, which is a favourite place for picnics with the islanders. At a comfortable restaurant, kept by a Frenchman and his wife, we had a very fair lunch. At 2 p.m. we started on our return journey, reaching Noumea at half-past three. On my arrival on board the yacht I was much annoyed to find that Millar had again absented himself without leave. The next day he was brought on board by the police, having been arrested by them for drunken and disorderly conduct in the town. My patience with the man being by this time thoroughly exhausted, I took him off to the Consulate and arranged for his discharge. On Saturday the 3d November, which was another beau tifully fine day, I visited the convict establishment on He Nou, the Italian Vice-Consul having kindly procured me an order of admission from the director. Contrary to the usual custom of French officials, who as a rule are scrupulously punctilious in matters of etiquette and politeness, I was received at He Nou with decided discourtesy. Having sent CONVICT ESTABLISHMENT ON ILE NOU. 227 in my card to the governor, together with a letter of intro duction from the Italian Vice-Consul, I received a message from him to say that he was reposing and could not see me, but that I might be taken round by a warder. This, how ever, was soon proved to be absolutely untrue, for almost directly afterwards I saw him starting for Noumea with some friends. He took no notice whatever of me, and did not even raise his hat. Perhaps his was a case of evil com munications corrupting good manners, for only the worst class of convicts were confined on He Nou. I must confess that the warder who was told off to escort me proved him self an excellent guide, and I was greatly interested in all that I saw. The whole establishment appeared to be thoroughly well managed. The cells, kitchens, workshops, and exercise - yards were kept scrupulously clean. The prisoners were divided into classes, according to their con duct and behaviour. The higher classes were allowed con siderable privileges, such as living and sleeping in common rooms; they were also permitted to smoke. Those in the lowest classes wore chains and were confined in solitary cells. The prisoners work at the various trades to which they have been accustomed before their conviction ; their working hours being from 4 A.M. to 4 p.m., with short inter vals for meals. The money earned from their labour is employed to lessen the expenses of their keep. Formerly most of the European convicts were sent to Cayenne, but owing to the unhealthy nature of the climate this arrange ment has been changed for some few years, and now the great majority of French convicts are sent to New Caledonia. Those who receive sentences of seven years or under are per mitted to return to France after having resided on the island for three years beyond the expiration of their term. Men with longer sentences are kept on the island for the rest of their lives, even after their discharge from prison. We were shown three men who were at the time lying under sentence 228 CONDEMNED CRIMINALS. of death. The first had wounded the prison doctor, with intent to murder ; the second had actually killed a warder ; and the third had been condemned for contempt of court, for taking off his boot and hurling it at the president's head. I was told, however, that in all probability this man would be reprieved; the other two being certain to be executed. Before their sentences could be carried into eff'ect, however, they had to be confirmed by the President of the Republic. Prisoners awaiting execution in the penal establishment, lie Nou. The executions take place in the prison and in the presence of all the convicts. I spoke to the man who had wounded the prison doctor, and it was curious and touching to observe the great affection which he displayed towards a tame sparrow which occupied his cell. The following day was Sunday, and in the evening the convict band played in the square, most of the rank, beauty, and fashion of Noumea being present. On Monday I went on shore to see the Director of the EXORBITANT PILOTAGE. 229 Interior to claim exemption from harbour-dues. The captain of the port had sent us in a bill, treating us on the scale of a merchant-ship. Owing to our yacht being the first that had ever visited Noumea the authorities appeared to be in doubt as to our exact status ; but after interviewing Mr L. the British Consul and myself, the Director decreed that we were to be treated in all respects as an English man-of-war. The result of which would be that we should pay no dues, and only half-pilotage. The pilot, however, when I settled up with him next morning, declined altogether to recognise the order of the Director of the Interior, and insisted that I must pay in full. Upon consulting Mr L., we determined to apply at once to the Director himself, but unfortunately on our arrival at his office we found it closed. I had made all arrangements for leaving at once, and therefore by Mr L.'s advice, and in order to avoid detention, I paid the whole sum of money claimed, leaving it to him to get the proper portion refunded if possible. By a quarter to two in the afternoon we had weighed anchor. A strong breeze was against us, and we had to beat the whole way out, and it was not until 5 p.m. that the pilot left us. The pilots in Noumea had formed a syndicate of their own, and the authorities did not appear to have much control over them. Our shorter way would have been through the Havanna passage, but the pilotage through this would have amounted to an exceedingly large sum ; even through the Bulari passage I had to pay £14, 12s., which seemed to me extremely exorbitant. On the whole our week's sojourn at Noumea had been thoroughly enjoyable, all the more so on account of the kindness and hospitality of Mr and Mrs L., and of the balmy loveliness of the weather. We were now bound for Erromango Island in the New Hebrides, which was barely 400 miles distant. The wind, however, was very light during 230 ERROMANGO ISLAND. the greater part of the passage, and we did not run more than 80 miles a-day on an average. On Thursday, November 8, we sighted the He des Pins at eight o'clock in the morning, and at noon next day we were abreast of Mar6 Island, one of the Loyalty group. We did not, however, pass within 15 miles of it, and therefore we were not able to see very much of its appearance. It seemed, however, moderately high and thickly wooded. At one o'clock in the afternoon on Saturday, November 10, we sighted the island of Tanna, which was much over hung with clouds. At 4.30 p.m. we arrived in Dillon Bay, Erromango Island, dropping anchor at a quarter to six in seven fathoms of water. The bay, though open to westerly winds, was at that season of the year perfectly safe. Its situation was romantic and pretty, a well-wooded valley with a river flowing through it forming an exceedingly effective background. On going ashore I was met by Mr R., the Presbyterian missionary, who was stationed there, and who kindly took me up to his house, where I was introduced to his wife. He himself was a Canadian by birth, but had been on the island for seventeen years. His house was comfortable and of very fair size, standing in a neat little garden along.side the church. The latter was a small wooden building, in which was a tablet stating that it was erected in memory of five missionaries who had been murdered on the island. These were Messrs Williams and Harris, who were killed in 1839 ; a Mr Gordon, murdered some years later ; and a second Mr Gordon, who, together with his wife, was treacherously killed in 1870. We attended a service at this church the following day, being Sunday. The service began at ten o'clock, the natives trooping in from the village to church — the men and women being all decently dressed, though many of the latter pre sented a grotesque appearance, owing to their wearing on AN INTERESTING SERVICE. 231 the top of their shiny black heads common English straw hats decorated with the cheapest and most gaudy artificial flowers. It seems a great pity that the missionaries should Mission station, Dillon Bay, Erromango Island. encourage these poor natives to purchase and wear such incongruous and absurd articles of clothing. The service was conducted in the native language ; the people seemed to be very reverent and to pay great attention. The hymns were sung with much spirit. Part of the New Testament has been translated, and many of the natives have learned to read ; but the missionaries have one great difficulty to contend with, in that the language is different on every island of the group. All the islands belonging to the New Hebrides are of volcanic origin, many of the volcanoes being still active. The highest and principal of these is 5000 feet above the sea, and is called Lopevi. This group of islands was formerly the centre of the sandal wood and labour trade, or slave trade as the latter might be called, since greater atrocities never were inflicted on human beings than these unfortunate natives were subjected to. 232 MISSION LIFE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES. The consequence naturally has been that it was a long time before they could be induced to regard any white man as other than a natural enemy, and it is to this fact that such sad and calamitous disasters must be attributed as the mur ders of Bishop Paterson, Commodore Goodenough, and many other excellent and self-sacrificing missionaries. The weather was very hot during our visit, and after church we thoroughly enjoyed a stroll along the banks of the river, through a beautifully shady path on the outskirts of the village, The houses of the latter were rudely built of canes and grass, most of them being oblong in shape and open at one end, with a little wooden palisade in front. The population altogether was about 2500, of which 1000 were Christians, the great majority of the remainder being friendly though heathen. The natives in the immediate neighbourhood of the mission attended school regularly, and most of them had been taught by Mr R. to read and write. Their great religion appeared to be that of the extremely punctilious observance of Sunday, which was kept with the most Sabbatarian strictness, not the slightest kind of work being done upon that day. This, no doubt, was owing to the Presbyterian influence of the missionaries, of whom there were altogether sixteen in the New Hebrides supported by the Australian Mission Society. They each receive £170 a- year fixed income, and an allowance of £10 for each child. Mr R. had certainly contrived upon his income to make him self very comfortable in the seventeen years he had been there. His garden was well stocked with English, vegetables and vines ; pine-apples and other semi-tropical articles of produce were growing in healthy luxuriance. He had, be sides, a stable, poultry-yard, and a piggery. The only article of export on the island was arrowroot, which was growing wild in great abundance. The natives, however, will not take the trouble to cultivate it, though, from what I was informed, it would well remunerate them to do so. CURIO-HUNTING. 233 I tried to obtain some curios whilst I was on the island, but the only things which I could find were some very ordi nary wooden spears, bamboo combs, and bows and arrows ; the last were small and light compared with those which I had seen elsewhere. I purchased a considerable number of them. At 6 p.m. on the 12th we got under way, after having bid adieu to Mr and Mrs R., who had lunched with us on board the yacht. The former gave me some handsome and valu able articles of curiosity, and each day during our stay he sent off to the yacht fresh milk and delicious pine-apples. Besides this, he took a great deal of trouble to procure us live stock, and, indeed, both he and his wife showed the greatest kindness to every one on board. We had a fair breeze, and went along through the night at an average of fully six knots an hour. 2 G 234 CHAPTER XXIV. SANDWICH OR EFATE ISLAND A FINE HARBOUR NEW HEBRIDES COFFEE PROTECTION ISLAND SCARCITY OP GENUINE CURIOS MALLICOLLO ISLAND A NATIVE VILLAGE A PRIMITIVE MODE OF STRIKING FIRE REMAINS OF PHALLIC WORSHIP THE SHIP- OOOk's scare — ESPIRITU SANTO ISLAND — TONGOA CURIOUS ARROWS A STRANGE CUSTOM BAT-SHOOTING OUT AT , SEA AGAIN A STRONG GALE THE BANKS ISLANDS PORT PATTESON — A TERRIFIC STORM^THE PRICE OP A PIG. November 12-2Jt, 1888. At daybreak we sighted Sandwich Island, which is also known by the name of Efate. We arrived and anchored in Havanna harbour at 1 p.m. This was on Tuesday, Novem ber 13. As we sailed up to our anchorage we were regaled with beautiful scenery, the land on each side being thick ly wooded, and moderately high. The distance from the entrance of the Sound to the settlement was upwards of five miles, and on our way we passed several native villages on both sides of the bay. The harbour is perhaps the best and finest in all the Western Pacific, and steamers to and from New Caledonia and Australia call here occasionally. The settlement is the principal one in the group of the New Hebrides, though it only boasts of three European houses. A certain Captain M., to whom Mr R. had given me a letter of introduction, was the principal resident here. He was formerly in the sandal- wood trade, but now kept a COFFEE CULTIVATION. 235 store, and was said to have amassed a considerable fortune. I spent the greater part of an afternoon at his house, and had a most interesting and instructive conversation with him. He informed me that coffee grew in great perfection on the island, and commanded a high price in the Australian market. It was considered to be superior to Ceylon coffee, and, in his opinion, it would pay any man to establish a plantation there. The climate, however, was very unfavour able, being notorious for fever. The natives were fairly civilised, some of them wearing a certain amount of clothing. They were all of the true Papuan type, perfectly black, and with woolly hair. I must say that I thought some of the old women whom I saw as ugly and revolting specimens of the human race as could anywhere be found. On leaving Captain M.'s house I was kindly presented by him with a bow, two spears, and a quantity of poisoned arrows. He pointed out to me the place where the French camp stood during the short time they occupied the New Hebrides. A small wooden fort which they then erected was still visible, and in good preservation. Besides his store, there was another belonging to the New Hebrides Company. On White Sand Point was a mission station belonging to the Free Church of Scotland, but at the time of my visit there was no minister residing there. In the evening some of my men went out with the seine, and caught about three stone of good-sized fish. It is not, however, very safe to eat them here, as several varieties are poisonous. They should be examined by some native who understands them before they are cooked and eaten. On the following morning, having visited the mission village on a curio-hunting expedition, which, however, was extremely unsuccessful, I crossed the Sound, and landed near a large village on Protection Island. The houses were curiously constructed, being dome-shaped, and rudely built 236 MALLICOLLO ISLAND. of cane and Pandanus leaves. Owing to there being no chimneys, everything inside was black with smoke. I obtained a couple of wooden combs, and two very ordinary clubs, but nothing else of any value could I find. The fact is, that as the natives become more civilised they no longer make the weapons and other primitive articles which they used in the old days; and as every visitor to these and similar islands is on the look-out for relics and curios, the articles of genuine value have all been bought up long ago. What is left now is for the most part simply trash, though in some of the less well-known islands, such as Santa Cruz, the Northern Solomons, New Ireland, New Britain, the Carolines, and so forth, there are undoubtedly objects of great interest still to be obtained. Having purchased a couple of turkeys and a few fowls, which were all the live stock that we could get, we got under way at 5.30 p.m. en route for Mallicollo Island. Being favoured with a good breeze all through the night, we found ourselves at daybreak next morning between the islands of Ambrym and Mallicollo. The latter is much more densely wooded than either Erromango or Sandwich ; a thick forest descended to within a few yards of the beach. We anchored in Sail Sun Bay at 9 A.M., opposite the Catholic Mission station. The priest in charge of this was a polished and agreeable Frenchman, upon whom I called immediately after landing. I found him engaged in building a little chapel and school- house, with the aid of a carpenter whom he had hired from Noumea. He was the first missionary who had settled on this island, and had only been there fifteen months. He candidly acknowledged that up to that time he had made no progress whatever in his missionary efforts, and that there was not a single native Christian on the island. However, the natives had not shown themselves actively hostile to mission-work ; they had simply ignored it, and would have nothing to do with him. A VISIT TO A NATIVE VILLAGE. 237 At the next bay, whither I went in the lifeboat, after leaving this Frenchman, I found a Presbyterian Mission station in charge of a certain Mr L. and his wife. They had been there only a little over a year, but during that time they had built a nice house, and seemed altogether to be tolerably comfortable. From Mr L. I received much the same report as I had from the priest. He told me that the natives were a savage race of cannibals, and that he had very little hope of achieving success in his missionary Native hut, Mallicollo, New Hebrides. labours amongst them. Up till that time, however, he and his wife had contrived to keep on very amicable terms with them ; and under his escort I paid a visit to one of the native villages. We beached the boat midway between the Catholic and Protestant stations ; and after a short scramble through the woods we reached a village consisting of about half-a-dozen houses, roughly built of canes and grass, oblong in shape, and with sloping roofs. The interiors, like those I had seen before, were black with soot, the rooms being about six feet high. At the door of the principal houses 238 REMAINS OP PHALLIC WORSHIP. stood two figures about four feet high, cut out of the trunk of the tree-fern, their heads carved roughly to represent a human face, and rudely painted with vermilion and blue. These were the household gods, or tutelary guardians; in fact, the lares and penates of the family. The whole village, indeed, consisted of one family ; it being the custom on the island for each family to dwell apart at some little distance from their neighbours. The husband lives in one hut by himself, and his wives and family dwell around him. The dress of the natives is simple and scanty in the extreme, the women wearing a fringed grass mat about six inches wide round the waist. Curiosities appeared to be scarce amongst them, and the people seemed loath to part even with the few things which we saw that took our fancy. I managed, however, to secure an exceedingly handsome club and a curious dancing-mask. Whilst inquiring for the curios, we came across a man who was engaged in striking fire by the friction of two sticks, an operation which, though I had frequently heard of it, I had never witnessed before. From certain rudely carved implements which were mysteriously shown to us, it is evident that the natives of the New Hebrides indulged in the remnants of some ancient phallic worship. One curious custom amongst them is, that no woman is allowed to set her feet upon certain paths which are specially reserved for men. So stringent is this regulation amongst the natives, that Mrs L., who was in advertently walking upon one of these paths a few days before our visit, was fired at by a native, but fortunately escaped any injury. They possess rude temples, one of which we saw containing six figures about 15 feet high, with their faces painted vermilion and white. Near these figures stood some gods carved out of a hollow log, forming drums which are beaten with sticks upon various occasions. Every man whom we met was armed, some with bows and wa2P3 wdoo ?J