Accoui'it of tha progress in 1 geography anri. exploration in 1886 J William Libbey Smithsonian Report , 1886-87 ) "I'gCviiie/e BSSii' %/Qrti^./m^diag cf,a.CoIUgi in thts._Coloip)l llwWHPgSwHiffi'lB' 700 AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS GfEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION tN THE YE^K 18 86 WILLIAM LIBBEY, JR. ^EOJa THE 'SMITHSONIAN* REP0:RT FO'E 188R-'87. WASH IK GT ON: SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. GEOGEAPHY AND EXPLORATION IN 1886. By WlIXIAJI LiBBEY, Jk., Professor of Physical Geography, College of Neio Jersey. There appear to be few great regions left for the valiant explorers of modern times except those lying at the poles. A great deal still re mains to be done in the way of working up the details that are needed to fill iuthe outlines of our globe's structure, which are now pretty well known. This is very clearly seen when we contrast the two species of activity at work in the study of Europe aud Africa ; the former might almost be said to be known so well as to preclude all further investiga tion, and this is true with regard to its general features, but we find more written about its details in every way, than of any other conti nent. In the case of Africa this sort of minute study has only begun, but the long lines traversed by so many intrepid men are rapidly producing a net- work which will give us a true idea of this enormous portion of our globe, concerning which it has been well said that it is a dark, mysterious, and sealed continent. Europe has been properly retired from the list of the continents which are subjects for exploration, but the exploration of its resources and enterprises are in the fir.st full flush of development; in other words, the history of man's modifying effect on nature has but fairly begun to be written. Asia and Africa have received most attention during the past .year, though there is no lack of expeditions.of note in all the quarters of the globe.* Asia. — The greatest explorations which have been carried on in this continent during the past year have been those of General Prjevalski, who returned to Moscow in January, 1886, after his fourth journey iuto the interior. This is but one of a series of trips undertaken by him, commencing in 1871, and he was at that time the first explorer to pene trate these unknown regions, all other attempts having been repelled * I have been aided very materially in the preparation of these notes by the excel lent sketches of the progress of geography which have been published hy Maunoir, Duveyrier & Kaltbrunner; not only in the verification of facts already knownj but also for many records, which their greater facilities have enabled them to give. 313 £37en 314 RECORD OP SCIENCE FOR 1886. by the fierce native tribes. A simple outline, giving the regions visited in these several journeys, may not be amiss in this place. The flrst voyage extended from 1871-'73, during which time he visited and made known for the flrst time the sources of the Blue Eiver, the Yang-tse-kiang. In his second trip he travelled through the Thian Shan region as far as the Tarim, and then he was forced to return through eastern Turkestan. This took place in 1876-'77. In 1878-'79, he explored the region about Lake Zaisan and reached Tsaidam in Thibet ; then going forward, he was stopped within 160 miles of Sadji, He then turned his attention to the headwaters of the Hoang-ho. In his fourth journey, begun in 1883, he again crossed these central desert regions to the source of the Hoangho, spending the month of February, 1884. in the mountains of Thibet. In May he again passed through Tsaidam, where he left his stores in charge of the Cossacks. The river in this region has only a breadth of about 150 feet, which however soon increases rapidly. The Chinese have a great veneration for the Hoang-ho, which -is justified by its importance to the region through which it flows. Wild animals, yaks, etc., are the only living things found near its source, but in its lower course, when the plains are reached, it becomes thickly settled. From these headwaters he turned farther southward to the source of the Yang-tse-kiang. Here he again en countered many difficulties, chief among which were the natives; they were generally poorly armed and easily repulsed, but he was exposed to their sudden attacks for several months. Crossing from southern to western Tsaidam he found desert land once more, and he was glad to reach a small town called Gas, even though he was forced to take the most impracticable routes. Here he remained three months, and then passed on to western Thibet, where he discovered three new mountain ranges. On his return to Gas he passed through these mountains once more, going to Loto on his way. In this place he was received kindly by the inhabitants, who seem to be of Turkish origin. He received the same treatment from the natives of western China and eastern Turkestan. This part of the country is described in the most favorable terms. It seems to have a warm and agreeable climate, to be very fertile, and winter is scarcely known. All the surrounding nations are represented here — Chinese, Mongolians, Arabians, and Hindoos. Going farther, another desert region was crossed, which was dotted here and there with oases; that of Tchertchen was found to contain the remains of an ancient and forgotten village ; the Oasis of Potam is described as very fertile, and he is the first explorer who has followed and described the course of the Eiver Potam. This river arises iu a marsh in the midst of the desert, and has a length of about 120 miles; after following it he passed across the Eiver Tarlm and then went to the oasis of Akson. From this spot he crossed the Thian Shan mountains to Sekoul, where his journey ended. GEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION. 315 Potanine and Skassi spent the greater part of the year in making ethnographic and topographic studies near Sinin und around Lake Koko nor, on the border lands between China proper and Thibet. In southern Arabia we have had most interesting results from the voyage of Glaser. He crossed from Hodeida, on the Eed Sea, to Sana, a voyage not so noted for its length as for the difficulties encountered. He has only been preceded by three Europeans (Niebuhr, 1763 ; Armand, 1843 ; and Halevy, 1870). This is one of the most famous portions of southern Arabia in ancient times. Professor Eutiug, of Strasburg, has also published this year an ac count of the journey (made in 1883-'84) from Damascus to Nefond and from there to Mecca by a hitherto untraversed route. A good map of central Syria has been published by Dr. Diener, which embodies the results of his studies around Damascus, Baalbec, south ern Lebanon, and Palmyra. The great cartographer H. Kiepert has been travelling through Asia Minor with the object of completing his map of that portion of the con tinent by the aid of original investigations and the unpublished docu ments to be found at Constantinople. As yet, however, nothing has been published. Dr. Elisseiew has started on a journey across Asior Minor to Armenia and Kourdistan by way of Alexandretta and Aleppo. The party, composed of Potanine, Skassi, and Beresovski, which has explored a considerable part of southern Mongolia and northwestern China, continued their work in the spring, and started on their return across the desert of Gobi by a route lying between Sogok-Nor and the eastern ramifications of the Altai Mountains. There has been another expedition in Thibet which deserves men tion. The English explorer Carey has passed through western Thibet. From Leh, in Cashmir, he went to Khotan, then, following the course of the Tarim, he reached Lob Nor towards the end of April, and pro posed to return by the north of China. Another expedition, which was known as the Macaulay mission, has been ordered back because of the opposition of the Chinese Govern ment. It was to have gone to Lhassa, crossing Sikkim and Japela Pass. Upper Assam has been visited by Colquhoun, but no reports have been received from him concerning the region lying between Birmah and Assam. The border line of British India has been very carefully and energetically mapped by the English topographers, who were sent there for the purpose. In the French possessions of Indo-China, the investigations of Eev- eillere and Presigny have demonstrated that the rapids, heretofore con sidered insurmountable difiQculfcies, can be passed by small steamers, as they went as high as Khong, on the Mekong river. The boundary com mission have been at work in the North, near Laokai, where they have 316 RECORD OF SCIENCE FOR 1886. nearly finished their work on tho border between Yun-nafi and Tong- kiiig. They have beeu.much interrupted by the piratical attacks ofthe natives. Capus, Bonvalot, and Pepin have continued their travels in the trans- Caspian district and Turkestan. They always hoped to be able to cross the Afghan boundary, but have been unable to do so. After reaching the sacred city of Meshed, this season they decide d to go at any risk, and started for Balkh. They were cai)tured, safely returned to the bor der, and left on the other side in a very emphatic but respectful man ner. They have explored the regions about Merv and Samarkand and have followed the course of the Artiu-Daria. The Eu.ssiau Government sent out a party under Dr. Eadde to ex amine into the resources of the new trans Caspian territory. They were detaiuLd at Askabad by a tardy spring. They profited by the de lay to explore the mountains on the EnssoPersian frontier. At Merv he was joined by Koutchine. From this point they went along the Mur- ghab to the frontier of Afghanistan, and then followed the boundary to Saraklis and then to Askabad, studying the five parallel mountain chains on the border of the new Eussian provinces. , Mr. and Mme. Dieulafoy are still continuing their researches in Persia, Chaklea, and Susiania, and although their work is mainly archaeological, it contains much of interest to the geographer. At this time the interest centers in the description of their return trip from Susa to Bassorah. Persia has also been crossed by Captain Gore of the Afghanistan boundary commission. He was accompanied by a party of native to pographers, and starting from the Oxus he traveled through Herat, Burjum, and then across the desert of Luth to Kerman; here the latest news was received from him, and his objective point was Bunder Abbas at the month ofthe Persian Gulf. The Eussian Government sent an expedition this year into easter'h Pamir to study the botany of the region. It was the expedition of GrumGrzymailo, and failed to reach the higher, portions of the Pamir on account of bad weather. The English government of India represented by Lord Dufferin sent Ney to Kashgar and Yarkand in 1885. The explorations of Ney in Central Asia have already made him famous. In this instance he profited by the occasion to cross that portion of the Pamir which has been considered inaccessible heretofore, and reached the headwaters of the Amu Daria. He then explored the regions of Eoshan and Shigh- nan," which had only been visited by the pundits previously. After this he passed through Badakshan,and then reaching the English boundary commission in Afghanistan, went to Ladak, where he has resided for some time. The Hindoo Koosh range was also crossed by Colonel Lockhart. Near the southern sources of the Arau.Daria he passed through Badakshan, GEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION. 317 after which he regained his starting point at Gilgit after having made topographical studies of some importance. Africa. — Tho continent of Africa is becoming better known every year, but at the cost of many lives ; in fact it is hard to tell whether the polar regions oppose more difiScnlties to overcome in exploration than these equatorial regions or not. Both parts of the globe have great natural obstacles to be overcome, but those found near the equa tor are intensified by the stubbornness, jealousy, and tricky dispositions of the natives. Thus each year a new list of victims to their barbarity has to be prepared, but this does not seem to prevent men risking their lives in the exploration of the dark continent. Eobecchi of Cairo has started across the Libyan desert from the Nile to Tripoli. The latest news from him was to the effect that he had reached the Oasis of Siwah safely. Italy seems to be studying the eastern portion of Africa very care fully just at present; at least there are a large number of Italiiin voy agers iu Shoa and Abyssinia this year. It is said that the object of their trip, commercial or political enterprises, forces them to remain quiet concerning all they observe, and therefore they have not published much. The names of some of these explorers are Antonelli, Martini, Plana, E.igazzi, Salembeni, Traversi, etc. Other travellers who have had secret missions have been able to impart valuable information to geographers without committing auy indiscretions, as, for example. Captain Longbois, who has given a very attractive description of his voyage to Shoa where he visited King Menelik, and it is hoped that our Italian friends will soon follow his example. Another very fatal portion of Africa is the extreme eastern part near the Eed Sea and the Gulf of Aden. The list of those who have lost their lives in thi.s region is quite long already, ami this year we must add the massacre of the Italian expedition under Porro at Haiar, also of that under Barral at Shoa, the death of Paul Sollellet, the French explorer, at Aden, as the result of the hardships of his trip to Kaffa aud Shoa, and then the complete destruction of the crew of a French man-of-war in the Gulf of Tajurrah. In spite of all this the Italian voyager Franzoi will make an attempt to reach Kaffa and the great lakes by the way of Zanzibar, and is fitting out an expedition to make his proposed trip. When the insurrection in Egypt under the Mahdi broke out Dr. Schnitzler (Emin Bey) was governor of the equatorial provinces, in the service of the Khedive, and was stationed at Lado, He was not only noted for his activity as an officer, but also as an explorer. This man, and those who supported him, were thus penned up, and for a long time no news came from them, for communication in the direction of Egypt was thus cut off. At the same time the state of affairs to the south and east was hardly less favorable. Between the Soudan aud the Indian Ocean we flnd the kingdom of Ougauda, ruled over at prest ent by Mwanga, a very unworthy successor to Mtesa, who always aided 318 RECORD OF SCIENCE FOR 1886. the white men who passed through his realm. This latter tyrant how ever has either intercepted all the messages or killed the messengers sent to Emin Bey. He ordered the massacre of the caravan of the unfortunate English Bishop Harrington, to the eastof Victoria Nyanza, near Kavirando, and seems determined that no one shall approach his state or pass through it. Dr. Fischer was prevented from going around Victoria Nyanza to aid the party of Emin Bey and they were not al lowed to escape from the Soudan. The Khedive aud the English au thorities have ignored these indications of blind hatred, or they would not have turned this governor over to himself and left him to become the victim of their political mistakes. Fortunately Emin Bey did not lose his head in this serious state of things, but immediately joined forces with Dr. Junker, who has been exploring this region since 1879, and Captain Oasati, who has been travelling along theUelle, — the two other Europeans who were in the country. Their position at Lado was at flrst untenable and they retreated to the south with a handful of devoted men ; since then reports have been received stating that Emin Bey made an aggressive move and had regained Lado. Dr. Junker then forced his way to the coast with messages from Emin Bey, in spite ofthe obstacles placed in his way by Mwauga, although at flrst he seemed to have been made a captive in Ounyoro. This distingushed explorer must have made many valuable observations during his long stay which will be very useful in completing our maps of this district. Expeditions are being fltted out for the relief of Emin Bey and Casati. The whole district about Lakes Bangweolo and Moero has been most thoroughly exhausted by the expeditions of Boehme, Eeichard, and Giraud. A new and easy route to the head of Lake Nyassa has been found by Pfeil, who has been traveling along the Ulanga, which is a large tributary of the Lufiji. Eevoil left Zanzibar for Lake Tanganyika last year and only succeeded in reaching Tabora, about two-thirds of the distance to the lake. The only important expedition between the coast and Lake Nyassa was that of Serpa Pinto and Cardoso, who were able to found the station of Blantyre, on the Shire, after several attempts. Dr. Fischer, in spite of all his efforts to reach Dr. Junker, only suc ceeded in reaching Victoria Nyanza, and was unable to traverse Uganda or go around the lake, and there is no doubt but that the trials of this trip helped to bring about the premature death of this intrepid traveler at the age of thirty -eight. He died suddenly on his return to Berlin, November 11, 1886. There are some other prisoners in this Nyanza region who do not dare to move from Uganda without per mission from the king, viz, the two missionaries, Mackey and Lomdel. The expedition under Liviuhac is also detained at the south of the lake, waiting more favorable conditions to advance to the north. A very rapid trip across the continent from Stanley Falls to Zanzi bar was made by Gleerup. He was materially aided by Tipu-tip, a GEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION. 319 powerfnl chief, and passed through Nyangwe, then Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika, then Bagamoyo, and reached Zanzibar in five months, making too quick a journey to add much to our geographical knowl edge of the regions crossed. Dr. Lenz, the famous explorer, who was sent to the aid of Dr. Junker, was detained at Stanley Falls by circumstances beyond his control until April, 1886, when he left for Nyangwe and Tanganyika. In the mean time Dr. Junker virtually became a captive, and the lot of Dr. Lenz has become a source of inquietude because he is doubtless completely in the power of Arabs hostile to Europeans. Dr. Lenz was accompanied by Dr. Baumann and Bohndorff, the faithful com panion of Dr. Junker. He seems to have given up the possibility of reaching the valley of the Uelle through that of the Mobangi (the connection only existing on some fancifully constructed maps). At first he intended traveling up the Aruwimi, but later news from the captives, which led him to believe that they were on the eastern side of Albert Nyanza, determined him to give the preference to the Mbura route. The best and clearest resum6 of the work of all investigators of the affluents of the Congo has been given in Petermaun's Mitteilungen, 1886, IX and XI, by v. Fran9ois. It embodies the work of Grenfell, Kund, Tappenbeck, Wissmann, Wolf, and himself, among others. The year has been rather poor in results as far as the basin of the main river Congo has been concerned. Many travelers have passed up the river as far as Stanley Falls, among them Lenz, Bove, v. Schwerin, etc., but nothing new has been pointed out. In January, 1886, Kund and Tappenbeck found thatthe Ikata enters the Kassai just before this latter river enters the Congo. There is still considerable doubt concerning the lower course of the Kwango, one of the main southern branches of the Congo, and it is to be regretted that the travels of Massari and Buttner do not throw any new light on the subject, because their itineraries agree and disagree in the most peculiar manner. Lieutenants Kund and Tappenbeck have traveled over portions of the Kwango, Kassai, and Sankuru. They found two new tributaries of the Kwango, viz, the Wambu and the Sale, •which latter empties into the Kuilu before it joins the Kwango. None of their guides would follow them beyond the Kassai, and on reaching the Sankuru with boats and travelling along it they turned eastward through prairies and dense forests. On their return they discovered a new and impottant river, the Ikatta, which reaches the Congo under the name of Mflni. This latter river Stanley believes is the outlet of Lake Leopold II. Lieutenant Wissmann has descended the Kassai, and the result has been the complete revolutionizing of our previous ideas of its course. He has gone still further eastward to Lake Lanji, the great basin from which the Congo flows and into which the great rivers, the Lualoba, the Luapala, and the Luflra, empty. 320 RECORD OF SCIENCE FOR 1886. In this connection it might be well to mention the fact that Grenfell and V. Frangois have been travelling up the various tributaries, one after another, as far as their little vessel could go, and have been re naming them all. The Kingdom of Muata Yamvo, so well described by Pogge, has been recently visited by de Carvalho on a political mission from Portugal, in which he is said to have been successful. After a while we may get some definite idea of the limits of the re gions of this continent, concerning which almost all the various nations of Europe have been contending. The International Boundary Com mission have been having a difficult time locating the artificial limits of these so'called states, which are sometimes marked by problematical rivers. The members of the French Commission, Eouvier and Ballay, and those of the Congo Free State, ascended the Congo, trying to find the mouth of the Licona, which was to be the boundary according to the terms of the Berlin treaty. They reached the Bunga without find ing the Licona, and here the delegates of the two states signed a de claration which states " that the Licona of the maps aud of the treaty is nothing more than the Bunga." French Congo has been explored by J. De Brazza, who passed down the Sekoli from a point near its source, for some distance, and then traveled to the north and eastward. They intended going down the river to its juncture with the Congo on their return, but the natives would not suppljr them with canoes. They made boats for themselves, and after a month's hard work reached the junction of the Sekoli and Ambili. Later along they reached the Congo, and then made their way back to the coast from Bunga station by way of the Alima and Ogowe. In South Africa the only expedition now in the field is that of Dr. Holnb. There have been many explorations in previous years which we are just commencing to hear from ; for example, that of Capello aud Ivens, which extended from coast to coast ; that of Montague Kerr from Cape Colony to the Zambesi and Lake Nyassa ; that of Schulze to Lake Ngami, aud more recently that of Farini across the Kalahari Desert to Lake Ngami. A rather energetic aud carefully-planned expedition to the Lower Niger and the Sokoto was made by Thomson last year. They steamed up these rivers as far as they could go, with their caravan al ready mounted, on board the vessel which carried them, aud, when they could go no further, landed and were off' before the natives knew what was going on or could recover from the surprise. Their object was to conclude treaties with the sultans of Hansa. Their promptness prob ably saved their lives, but all their papers aud baggage were lost. The lower portion of the Niger is held by the English nation, who control all the commerce of this region from their station at tho junction ofthe Niger and the Bonne A German station has been founded at Bakundi by Flegel, (he explorer of the Torraba. The upper part of the river has been carefully explored by Davoust, for, although previously studied by GEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION. 321 Caill6 and Park, it was but partially known. For a long time Lake Liba has had a location and a name on the maps, but thej- have served as a sort of ignis fatuu,s, for it defies all attempts to reach it, if it exists, aud this seems more problematical than ever in spite of the efforts of Eogozinski and Parsavant, who announced their intention of visiting it. The northwest coast of Africa, never very hospitable, has been keep ing up its reputation during the past year. The attempt of the Ger man Commercial Geographical Society at Berlin to establish a station at Cape Nun came very near ending fatally to all concerned. The party were left on the shore, and after wandering in the most wretched condition from one tribe to the next, they were at last escorted to the coast at Mogador. There have been several expeditions across Mo rocco, and some from ALeria, and many errors and defects have been corrected in our maps. Many of the routes between the leading towns of this district have been shown to be practicable, but our map is far from complete. The work of Maurel, de la Martinierc, Duveyrier, Foncault, aud Quedenfeldt has been important for this reason, that their travels have made us better acquainted with a region of the globe which, though it is quite near Europe, has been virtually sealed to the white man by the fanaticism and ferocity of the natives. Thus the slopes of the Atlas Eange, which are not so very distant from the coast, are almost an unknown region. We have received what is probably an exaggerated account of Adrar from the Spanish expedition under Cervera which started from Eio di Ouro. They reached their destination nearly in a dying condition after many hardships aud after being robbed of nearly everything, and conse quently their picture ofthe region hardly agrees with that of Vincent and Panet, who describe it as a most delightful place, comparing it with the most favored portions of Switzerland. Tinibuctu is again exciting attention, and expeditions have started from nortli and south to reach this city. Among these might be men tioned the party under Gallieni and Viard along the upper course of the Niger. They were only forced to return by lack of water at Djenne. The party under Dr. Krause promises interesting results, because they travelled through regions as yet unexplored. We have to chronicle here the assassination of Palat, who left Algeria for this point and was treacherously murdered on the road. The Cameroon region has been more carefully studied and explored since it has come under the German protectorate. Dr. Schwarz, Pauli, Langhaus, Zoller, Valdau, and Knutson have been the main explorers of the slopes of the mountains, while the many streams which enter the Atlantic from this range have been examined by the Government authorities. SchwaTz, Valdau, and Knutson passed beyond the mount ains, and describe the region visited as a fertile and pleasant one, and not a desert as was supposed. The mountains are described as pecul iarly beautiful, with peaks reaching 12,000 and 13,000 feet. H. Mis. 600 21 322 RECORD OP SCIENCE FOR 1886. More was expected from the trip of de Oca, Osorio, and Tradierin their trip to the Corisco coast, to the south of this region. They visited probably the most glorious portion of this western coast between the Campo and Mouni Elvers, but their descriptions are disappointing. Nortli America. — The only portions of North America which seem to be left for great geographical discoveries are Alaska and the central and western portions of British America. The work of the Coast Sur vey and the Geological Survey is rapidly giving us the detail of most of our vast western territory. Alaska alone seems comparatively neg lected, except along the coast-line, on account of its peculiar position. The expedition sent out under Lieutenant Schwatka by the New York Times to the Mount Saint Elias Alps, visited that part of Alaska which is nearest the United States but which is least-known, having been seen but once by the Coast Survey, in 1874, and then under disadvantages. The party succeeded in crossing the large glaciers which come from the great arc of mountains (of which Mount Saint Elias is the center) and which pass between the range and the coast. They ascended the lower slopes of one of the adjacent mountains, but did not reach the main slopes of the mountain. Ou this same southern shore ofthe body of Alaska, Lieutenant Allen completed his explorations of the Copper Eiver and theTananah, the largest-branch of the Yukon. Lieutenant Stoney has explored the west ern coast of Alaska between the Kowak Eiver and Point Barrow, after wintering at Fort Cosmos, on Kowak Eiver, which he discovered in 1883. In central British America, Hudson's Bay has attracted most atten tion, on accoiint of the proposed scheme of making Hudson's Straits the outlet for all the great grain districts to the south and west of the bay. Lieutenant Gordon has found that the straits are always open from July to October, which fact seems to encourage the promoters of the plan to compete in this way with our transcontinental railways. The whole affair appears to be very visionary, but may be carried out after all. Our knowledge of Central America has been somewhat increased by the archaeological voyages of Pinart to Chiriqui and of Charnay to Yu catan. We have also the details of the Nicaragua route between the two oceans. South America. — This is a continent which still merits explorations, and those of the present year have been quite successful iu disclosing many new features, though some of the expeditions have of course suf fered. Beginning at the north, we find the expedition of Dr. Siewers in Venezuela is completed this year by a trip to the Sierra Nevadas of Santa Marta. He has now spent some three years in Venezuela, and all have been profitable. The explorations of Tenkate in the Guianas have been resumed thisyear. He reached the State of Bolivar, on the Orinoco, then went to Cumana the peninsula of Araya, and after this to La Guayra and Caracas. Here he suffered from fever to such an extent that he had to stop work. GEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION. 323 A new scientific exj^edition has been iu Venezuela this year, under the leadership of Chaffanjou, already well known by his explorations. The object of the expedition was to reach tho headwaleis of the Orinoco. After a stay in Bolivar, he set out with his conipauious, JMorisot and four men engaged as rowers, but his men deserted hiin during the night, carrying off the canoe and some provisions. They secured a new crew of two men, at a high price, aud worked themselves, in order to continue the trip. The floods had driven all game from the river banks, and they were thus deprived of meat iu tho way of food which hunting would have given them. For several days they were forced to live upon roots. They reached Caicara, the point where the Apure joins the Ori noco, and stopped there, overcome by hunger and fatigue. The swollen current of the river, greatly increased by the heavy rains, prevented their proceeding farther. The South American continent has been (jrossed from east to west by two Europeans during the present year. Olivier (French consul to Callao) was the flrst to accomi)lish this feat. Starting from Callao he crossed the Andes and descended the main streams to the Atlantic coast, whereas Payer ascended the Amazon (Marafion-Ucayali), and then crossed the Peruvian Andes. He has prepared a map of many of the smaller tributaries which he explored. Both voyages have been the means of adding considerably to our knowledge of the geographical and hydrographic features of the central portion of South A.merica. A commission has been appointed by Brazil, Paraguay, and the Ar gentine Eepublic to explore that portion of the Argentine Eepublic which projects in between Paraguay and the Brazilian province of Eio Grande do Sui, with the' object of determiningfhe respective frontiers. Two preliminary voyages have been made here byNederlein andGodio. Very little is known of this jirovince, which has been called tho Mis sion Territory because of the missions founded there by the Jesuits with the idea of civilizing the Indians. Thenar is still actively engaged upon bis explorations in the Argen tine Eepublic and Bolivia. He had scarcely returned from his voyage on the Pilcomayo when ho started out from Buenos Ayres to meet the Bolivian ambassadors at Tarija in order to consult as to the best way of opening the navigation of the Pilcomayo. It was his intention at flrst to go by the way of the Gran Chaco region once more, with some natives, but after careful consideration he decided to take tho less dan gerous route through Tucuman, Salta, and Jujuy. He was retarded by the rains and when he reached Tarija ho did not find the ambassadors, as he expected, and he found that Bolivia was not in a condition to prove there was a practicable fluviatile route to the heart of theircoun- try, by tracing the course of the Pilcomayo to the Paraguay. The hardships endured on tin's trip were remarkable. They were deserted by their men, aud thej^ often lost their way in the mountain labyrinths. Their burdens were heavy, and it is scarcely any wonder that thefatigue 324 RECORD OF SCIENCE FOR 1886. of the trip under such conditions brought on fever which forced them to stop and rest. The Argentine Eepublic has undertaken to explore the region between the Pilcomayo and the Vermejo, and has sent out an expedition under de Bretfes, accompanied by Boisviers and Eobin with an escort of twenty men. Viscount de Brettes has been iu this region before, and therefore we may expect thorough work from his party. Chili is at present engaged in the official exploration of the territory ceded by Peru after the war. The desert of Atacama is also being studied, and an expedition has been sent to Tierra del Fuego to examine the gold-bearing strata said to have been recently discovered there. A real voyage of discovery has been made in Patagonia, this year by Colonel Fontana, the governor of the Chupat Territory. His brilliant expedition to the eastern slopes of the Andes is to be followed by a minute exploration of the regions which he could only cross at a very rapid rate. All that is known of the beautiful vallej^s which lie at the foot ofthe Andes, beyond the desolate and arid Pampas, rests upon the descriptions of native hunters, because, with the single exception of the hasty visit of an English marine by the name of Musters, in 1869, no one has ever visited this region. The reality seems not-only to answer the description, but to surpass all our conceptions of its possibilities. These valleys are said to be picturesque, fertile, and well watered, and form a complete contrast with the monotonous Pampas which must be crossed to reach them. One expedition to Tierra del Fuego has been already noted. The Argentine Eepublic, which owns the other half of this region, has also sent out a mining expedition to exploit the recently discovered gold. The distinguished geographer Lista is also traveUing in Tierra del Fuego, and much that is valuable concerning this wild land can be ex pected from his report. Australia and Oceania. — Lindsay, who explored the Arnheim penin sula in 1883, has crossed the Australian continent. He travelled from southern Australia toward Lake Eyre in order to study the course of theFinke Eiver. He finds that in the rainy season it empties into the Treuer or Macumba Eiver, which is the main northern tributary of Lake Eyre, but in the dry season it loses itself in the sand. From this point he went eastward to the Herbert Eiver, which led him to the north, and he studied this river carefully, passing from it to the Arthur Eiver, which carried him to the Gulf of Carpentaria, thus making his trip from the south to the north, across the continent, complete. New Guinea seems to have treated -all explorers badly this year, the expedi tion of Forbes not even excepted. This party, fitted out with the great est care for scientific work, intended to cross the Owen-Stanley mount ains and explore the regions beyond. They were delayed iu reaching the base of operations, and when they got there tho season was so far advanced that the trip was given up for the time being, and the party GEOGRAPHY AND EXPLORATION. 325 remained at Sogere, waiting for a favorable opi)ortnnity. Their means became exhausted, but not wishing to leave tho island without at least seeing that part of it he came to explore, Forbes, accompanied by a Mr. Chambers, undertook a. trip to the top of the Owen Mountains, but they were deserted by their guides, and were forced to regain' the coast with all speed. They have returned to Australia in the hope of finding aid to enable them to undertake the trip once more. Dallmanu and v. Schlenitz have ascended the Empress Augusta Eiver some 190 miles from its mouth. The German expedition under Dr. Schrader has limited its explora tions to the neighborhood of Port Finch, the capital of their colony of Kaiser Wilhelm's Land. Polar Regions. — Lieutenants Eyder and Block have charge of the Danish expedition to Greenland. They expect to visit the coast from Upernavik to Melville Bay and are accompanied by the geologist Us- sing. Captain Hovgaardhas started out to reach 77° north latitude on the east coast at the same time, and the " Fylla" expedition has been examining the coast from the extreme southern point to Upernavik the last inhabited point to the northward. Iceland has been crossed twice this year. Dr. Labonne has traversed the island from south to north in the central portion. Oil his way he ascended Mount Hecla, to which he assigns an elevation of 5,227 feet above the sea. Thoroddseu has been continuing the geological studies already begun in the northwestern portion ofthe island, and has reached Cape North. There is a plan on foot for an expedition to Nova Zembla, the main object of which will be the measurement of the attractive force of the earth, but geographical explorations will also form i^art of their work. This effort is being made by Colonel Chamhorst. The Liakof of Islands and the five islands ofthe New Siberia group have been visited by Bunge and v. Toll, who crossed the ice which unites these islands with the continent on sleds. But one ofthe many expeditions planned to reach the North Pole has actually started. Colonel Gilder left Winnipeg for Hudson Bay with the idea of reaching the eastern coast of Baffin's Land from this place and then take a whaler if possible to Cape Sabine and winter there, after which he intended to start directly north for the pole. Colonel Gilder has returned to Winnipeg, having been unable to cross Hudson Bay on account of the lateness ofthe season. This expedition was sent out by the New York Herald. A very interesting expedition is being organized for the exploration of the regions, somewhat neglected up to the present time, which lie around the South Pole. The impulse in this direction was given by the Australian Societies, and appears to have found an echo in England where active steps are being taken to secure the funds necessary for such an exploration. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRAHY 3 9002 03094 9672