YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

As We Were Journeying

THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, JAPAN, CHINA, SIAM,
JAVA AND INDIA, AS SEEN FROM A
GIRL'S POINT OF VIEW

BY
GRACE E. GREENLEE

IVITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY ff. B. GREENLEE

AUTHOR'S EDITION

135
CHICAGO :
THE BLAKELY PRINTING CO.
1900

COPYRIGHT 1900 BY
GRACE E. GREENLEE
CHICAGO

TO
MY FATHER AND MOTHER
THIS VOLUME IS LOVINGLY
DEDICATED

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

I. Frontispiece 
2. On the Beach Near Honolulu  lo
3. A Country Road in Hawaii  13
4. Court House at Hilo  14
5. The "Pali"  16
6. The "Lanaii" of the Hawaiian Hotel  18
7. A Japanese Temple Garden  36
8. A Corner of a Temple Court — Nikko  66
9. Coaling the Empress of China at Nagasaki  78
10. A Native Street in Shanghai  84
II. One of Our "House Boats" on the Pei-ho  102
12. Outside the Wall — Peking  104
13. View of Peking from the Wall  106
14. A Street in Peking, China  108
15. A Beast of Burden in Northern China  no
16. A Chinese Wedding Procession  114
17. Boats on the Pei-ho  116
18. "Slipper Boats" in Canton  122
19. The "Peak" — Hongkong  126
20. View of One of the Canals — Bangkok  132
21. The Imperial Palace — Bangkok  134
22. Interior of a "Wat"  136
23. United States Legation — Bangkok, Siam  138
24. From the Hotel at Bortenzorg, Java  150
25. Native Huts in Central Java  152
26. A Rest Shed in Central Java  154
27. A Village Street Scene — ^Java  156
28. On the Platform of the Great Pagoda — Rangoon  i6(5
29. Burning Ghat — Calcutta  168
30. A Native Street in Calcutta  170
31. A Picturesque Nook in Agra  180
32. The Tomb of Shah Jehan and His Wife in the Taj Mahal —
Agra  182
33. The Taj Mahal — India  184
3

4 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
34. The Jumna Musjid — Delhi, India  188
35. The Gulden Mosque — Amritsar  190
36. Bullock Cart — India  192
37. The Gem of Amber Palace — Jaipur  194
38. A Jain Temple — Ahmadabad, India  196
39. Some of the Girls in Pundita Ramabai's School — Poona,
India  200
40. "Pousse-Pousse" Carriages — Pondicherry  202
41. A Curious Cannon at Tanjore, India  204
42. A Temple Pet at Madura  206
43. A Temple of Southern India  208
44. Native Group IN Southern India  210

INTRODUCTORY NOTE.
M M
'YHIS series of letters was written while we were
traveling around the world, and sent to a friend
at home on each mail. At the request of my
friends, they have been arranged in book form, as
a souvenir of our trip. Grace E. Greenlee.

CHAPTER I.
Palace Hotel, San Francisco,
April I, 1895.
My Dear Friend :
W^e are but a little way on our journey, and are glad
enough to be off the train. It seems so long ago since we left
you all standing on the station's platform, and yet it is only
four days. We had a very comfortable journey across the
continent, however. Friday we reached Omaha and had
a rest of a few hours there, taking the train again in the
afternoon. Away we flew across the farming lands, every
thing as flat as could be. It was very warm and dusty.
Saturday saw us in a terrible blizzard, with the thermometer
at zero in the car; it was decidedly unpleasant. When we
opened our eyes Sunday morning the bright sunshine
greeted us so cheerily, and off to the left sparkled beautiful
Salt Lake, encircled by the sunny mountains. It was a very
lovely picture. All day we rode through barren country,
with nothing but the blue-gray sage brush to relieve the
monotony of the mountains, with here and there a patch
of snow. This morning we were in the rich country sloping
down from the mountains to the Pacific, and everything
looked so beautifully fertile and well kept. The ride into the
city was lovely, as we skirted the water's edge for quite a
long distance.
Our plans are changed, and we sail to-morrow on
the Australia instead of the Arrowa, as we intended. The
Australia is an older boat, but is faster, and we reach the
Islands in six instead of seven days. Our staterooms are
7

8 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
very good, and I think we have made a wise change. I
have seen nothing of the city, and do not expect to. It is
rainy, anyway, and we cannot go out. Papa and William
are out about the last few things. They have just been
in to say that they are not sure our trunks are in the city;
they probably are, however, so we are not going to worry.
It seems as though we had been gone from Chicago so long,
and our trip ahead does not seem such a terrible under
taking. We live from day to day in this wandering life we
are just beginning, taking things as they come to us.
Steamship Australia,
Friday, April 5, 1895.
Four whole days have gone by, and not one word have
I Written; they have not been very happy ones, you may
be sure. But to go back. Tuesday at ten our stfeamer
started, for a wonder, on time, too. There were crowds
doWn to see us off, but we did not seem to mind leaving
our native land very much. We shall be more glad to see
it a year hence, I am sure. Our seasick time soon struck
us, and even the beauty of the harbor could not keep us
on deck long. I will not describe it, for it was almost too
lovely, and, besides, I do not believe I fully appreciated it.
We could see the seals on the rocks at the foot of the cliffs,
and all along the coast the beautiful line of white foam. The
Pacific seems so much worse than the Atlantic even, and
then, too, our boat is very lightly laden, so it rolls dread
fully. Tuesday and Wednesday we were all very miserable,
and when we did attempt to go on deck the cold soon drove
us below. We thought to finid warm weather so soon, too!
Our course is southwest direct, instead of south and then
west, as I imagined, so that is one reason it is so cold.
Yesterday, and especially to-day, it is much warmer, and
everyone is feeling better. One by one the passengers have
appeared — there are about fifty all told, some from Phila
delphia, Pittsburg, California, and some returning to the

ON BOARD THE AUSTRALIA. 9
Islands. A bride and bridegroom, aged eighteen and twenty-
one, are among them — and such children as they look. I
can hear them singing on the upper deck now, with their
guitar and banjo accompaniment. Another interesting
couple is a black man and a white woman, who have a state-
room opposite Papa's. There are a great many children
aboard — such dear little things. One is only about six
months old, and we could hear it cry when its mother was
so seasick and the poor little thing was in such distress.
William has made several friends among the girls; but
though we have talked with a few persons, no one is very
social as yet. We like the people from Philadelphia very
well; they sit at our table, but only two or three have been
able to be down yet. I am in the salon, writing at one of
the tables; the others are playing cards at another, and, as
you know, I am not sorry to be omitted. We are all very
much sunburned, and our hair is as straight as can be, so
you can imagine how we look.
Sunday Morning, April 7, 1895.
We have nearly finished the first part of our journey,
and we are not sorry. Such a morning as this is — rough is
no name for it. We have just come up from breakfast,
and it was very funny. We did not know whether the
things we had on our plates were our own or not, for they
might land in our opposite neighbor's lap the next minute.
You can imagine we are not seasick from our wanting to
laugh. I never have seen a boat roll as this one does. Yes
terday was showery, and to-day promises to be much the
same, with the sun peeping out once in a while. We keep
on deck all of the time, rain or shine. The only living things
we see are the brown albatross, which follow our boat con
stantly. A boat passed us yesterday, about ten miles away — ¦
we could just make it out.
We are getting acquainted now, and like the people
very well. We are a most industrious family — so they say —

10 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
for we do more reading than' any others on board; I even
did some sewing yesterday. There were two or three scraps,
of the bright-colored stuff I was using left over, and the
children thought they made lovely flags. It amused them
some time, dear little things. Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu,
Tuesday, April 9, 1895.
We arrived about ten yesterday morning, and from
then until bedtime we were very busy. It is so lovely here
and so gay, and everyone seems to be trying to have as
good a time as possible. The most of the ship's people are
here at the hotel, and we all feel very well acquainted. After
luncheon yesterday we went down to the beach for a bath,
and enjoyed it greatly. I did not go in, but the others said
the water was perfect. The sea tints were exquisite — ^like
a rainbow. There was no surf at the place we were bathing,
for it was sheltered by the reef further out. We found a
gentleman at the hotel whom we met in the West Indies
last winter. There are also some people whom my uncle met
in Berlin several years ago. How small the world is! We
have been trying to get side-saddles and go out riding ever
since we came, but find some difliculty. The girls all ride
with divided skirts here. It is the first time I have seen this,
and it interests me very much. I should like to try once, if
I could get a skirt.
I am writing on the piazza, which opens out from our
room. The view is very lovely, looking back into the moun
tains over the feathery tops of the trees. The sun is shining
brightly and the air filled with the chirping and song of
birds. Honolulu is really one of the prettiest places I was
ever in. It lies on the south side of the Island of Oahu,
stretching along the beautiful coast, imbedded in foliage.
The mountains, which form the backbone of the island, are
to the north. It is the beautiful tinting, though, that is
the chief beauty of the whole place — it is a perfect rainbow
of color.

ON THE BEACH NEAR HONOLULU.

HONOLULU. 11
Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu,
Wednesday, April lo, 1895, 6:30 a. m.
Mamma and Isabel are still in bed, but this is going to
be such a full day that I must write early or not at all.
Yesterday afternoon we took the train and went to what is
called Pearl Harbor — a ride of about an hour. It was very
pleasant. We went through rice-fi.elds, with the Chinamen
hard at work up to their knees, weeding. Then we passed
some of the great fish-ponds, which are very ancient. They
raise quantities of ducks, too, and it was such a pretty sight
to see them sailing along. At the end of our route we
visited a sugar-mill, and, as we turned our faces homeward, I
wish you could have seen the beautiful coloring that met
our gaze on the mountain slopes. In places the ground was
a perfect scarlet; then there would be great patches of foli
age, looking so soft and feathery and green. Here and
there little white houses peeped out, and back of all rose
the mountains, deep-seared and rugged, their tops hidden
in a soft, fleecy cap of clouds. Honolulu,
Thursday, April 11, 1895.
Such a day as we had yesterday! We had planned a
nice excursion to what they call Mount Tantalus, a mountain
peak back of the town. Mamma and three others were
going to drive, and seven of us were on horseback. We
started all right, but in some way got separated — the car
riage and ourselves. Such a glorious canter as we had
almost all the way up the mountain, through the sweet,
soft air. I don't know when I have enjoyed a ride so much.
Through the woods we rushed, zigzag most of the way, or
along a precipice, with the dark wooded valley below. We
were quite tired, though, before the halting place was reached
away up on the sloping mountain sides. It was a lovely
spot, but we were not thinking much of that just then, for we
were tired, hungry and thirsty, and no carriage holding our

12 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
provisions anywhere in sight. We waited at least an hour,
expecting to see it come around one of the curves in the
road, but it did not come, and we had no luncheon. Quite
a different looking party descended that mountain than had
ascended an hour or two before. We walked our horses all
the way and took all the short cuts we could find. At last
we came to a steep place, and my horse refused to take
another step, so I had to dismount and lead him. In a few
moments we came to a fence with no place to get through ;
we thought that was the last straw. The gentlemen broke
the fence, however, and we managed to get through, and
so on home, arriving there about three: Mamma was very
much worried about us, of course, and it seems it was all
the stupid driver's fault, as he did not know his way.
Off the Island of Hawaii, S. I., Steamer Kinau,
Saturday, April 13, 1895.
We have had such a rough trip over here, and I am
glad to say we will land to-morrow morning. We left
Honolulu yesterday at two, and struck rough water almost
immediately. All except Mamma and me soon took to their
berths, but we remained on deck, though it was cold and
wet from the salt spray, until half-past nine o'clock. Then
we tried to cross the deck to our rooms, but found that the
wind was blowing such a gale that we could not stand
against it. We expected tO' make a landing on one of the
islands soon, so went to the salon below to wait until we
should get under the lee of the island. We were pretty
seasick down there, and were glad to get to bed, when at
last we could. That taught us not to sit up so late without
one of our escorts.
We have been off the south coast of this island all day,
taking off freight and passengers, but will start in a few
minutes and go around, when it will be pretty rough. There
are a great many Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese on these
islands, sent out in colonies by their mother countries.

A COUNTRV ROAD IN HAWAII.

VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. 13
There are many emigrants on board, and it is decidedly un
pleasant. To counterbalance, perhaps, we also have Prince
Francis Joseph of Battenberg; we have not made his ac
quaintance yet. He is a nice-looking man, of about thirty or
thirty-five, and has with him as companion one whom I
think is an Englishman.
This island that we are stopping at is the largest and
most tropical of the whole group, so they say. What we
can see of it, though, shows nothing but sparsely covered
rocks, with the mountains rising above ; one or two of them
are snow-capped. Volcano House, Hawaii,
April IS, 1895.
We are actually on the edge of the great volcano, but
can only see a little of it occasionally, when the mist rises.
It is raining in torrents, and no one can tell when it will
stop; therefore, indoors we will have to stay for a while.
Saturday night, after I wrote last, we went to bed, and
soon were rocking away at a fine rate. It was a terrible
night, and no one on board slept more than an hour. It
was all we could do to stay in our berths, and our clothing
and wraps were strewn all over the floor. At last, about
two o'clock, we dropped anchor in Hilo harbor; but the
boat still rocked so much that we scarcely felt the difference.
We were up early, but everything on deck was very wet,
making it uncomfortable everywhere. The landing was
made in small boats. Then, after a short drive, we reached
the hotel. This island is the wettest place I was ever in, without
exception. They say it rains on an average of five hours
out of the twenty-four; but, as far as we have seen, it is
twenty-four out of twenty-four. After breakfast the stage
came around to the door, and we climbed into it for a
thirty-one-mile drive. If the sun had only been out it would
have been beautiful, for we passed through the most lux-

14 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
uriant vegetation. Great tree-ferns rose on every side, and
immense trees, covered with trailing vines, some in flower,
but not many. Every once in a while we came to a clearing,
with a pretty wide-eaved house in the midst of its flower,
garden. Calla lilies are lovely here, while the heliotrope and
fuchsia grow to be great bushes, even at this height.
This is a very comfortable hotel, but it is rather lone
some. There is only our own party — about a dozen in
number. We are the only ladies, but the gentlemen are
very pleasant. I sit next to the Prince at the table, and
have found him very good company.
It is a weird sort of a place up here. Steam is rising
from cracks all about us. A few feet from the window of
the room in which we are sitting the ground descends
abruptly to the crater — a black-looking place several miles
in circumference, with puffs of steam coming up all over
it. O, dear! I wish the rain would stop, so that we could
examine everything more closely. Volcano House,
Tuesday, April i6, 1895.
The rain has cleared away at last, and we are gradually
drying out. All day yesterday we stayed indoors watching
the clouds. In the morning we sat in the writing-room,
which is surrounded by glass windows, and spent the
time in writing letters. It was a dreary day at best, and
we were none of us sorry to go tO' bed. I never slept in
such wet sheets; but we don't seem to take cold. Early
this morning we went to the windows, and were rejoiced
to see that the clouds were breaking a little, and that there
were streaks of sunlight off in the distant mountain slopes.
Soon after breakfast we put on our riding skirts, mounted
our horses and were ready to start for the crater bed. Our
course led down a steep trail, almost from the hotel door,
through very pretty foliage. There do not seem to be
many flowers here, but the ferns and bright-colored berries

HILO. 15
on the bushes are very pretty. After about a mile down
a steep hill, or rather zigzag trail, we came to the lava. This
is a black mass, twisted and scarred in every conceivable
way, sometimes rising several feet into a rounded mass, and
in others split with deep fissures. We left our horses after
two or three miles, and proceeded on foot tO' the edge of
the inner crater — a large hole, out of which the steam pours
in great clouds. We passed puffs of steam coming through
the cracks, and soon discovered that the soles of our shoes
felt hot. Some of the gentlemen put sticks into the cracks,
and after a moment they took fire. We went very near to
the crater itself, but could not see much except the smoke.
What a pity it is not in action ! It was very hot, though the
sun did not shine brightly, and Papa had a sort of sun
stroke, so we hurried home as fast as we could.
Hilo, April i8, 1895.
We came down here yesterday, as usual in the pouring
rain. I never saw such rain in my life. When I got out
of the stage I was soaked through and through, though the
curtains were down and my cape was supposed to be water
proof. It is still raining, though the sun peeps out occa
sionally. After we arrived several persons called — relatives
and friends of ours at home, and one of them brought
Mamma a beautiful bouquet of roses. The foliage here is
certainly lovely. Coming down from the volcano, a lady
came out of one of the houses we passed and gave us a
great bunch of the most gorgeous nasturtiums.
I wish you could have seen Isabel and me this morning,
just as we had finished dressing. I happened to catch sight
of an enormous spider racing down the wall. I sprang
onto the bed and Isabel onto a chair, and we screamed to
Papa, who was in an adjoining room. When he opened
the door, we were so frightened that we could only point
to the corner where our enemy was hiding. We could not
catch the creature, but found that he was harmless and also

16 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
useful in catching smaller insects. We were well laughed at,
I assure you. On Board Steamer Kinau,
Friday Afternoon.
We have had a very comfortable day indeed, and night,
too, as for that matter. We left Hilo about two yesterday
:ifttrnoon, after having had a hard time getting aboard in
the small boat. The waves were very high, and looked as
though they would engulf us the next moment. You may
be sure we dreaded the journey back to Honolulu. All
the afternoon we skirted along the coast, and passed beau
tiful scenery. The bluffs rose abruptly from the water's
edge, where the sea rolled and tossed in one line of foam.
The sides of the bluffs were covered with foliage, with here
and there beautiful waterfalls, some large and some small.
There were a great many sugar-mills to be seen, with spider
like aqueducts, through which they carry the cane from
the distant fields. All over the country, for miles back from
the coast, we could see the waving fields of cane, some a
beautiful, tender green and others darker.
To-day we have been in very quiet waters among the
islands, and now we are looking for Oahu — the island on
which Honolulu is situated — to appear any minute. I wish
you could have seen the pigs that were taken on board
to-day. They were brought from the land in small boats,
and the poor things thought they were being killed. One
of them fell into the water as he was being tossed on board —
such a squealing as there was ! Honolulu, April 20, 1895.
We are once more back "home," as we call it, because
our trunks are here, I suppose.
I wish I could paint the beautiful panorama that lay
spread at our feet this morning, as we stood looking over
the ])ass in the mountains back of the town — a place they
call the "Pali." The jagged, sharp-pointed peaks rose all

HONOLULU. 17
about us, presenting the most gorgeous colors in earth and
foliage — red, russet and bright green. The plain below, to
the north, stretched green as an emerald to the deep blue
sea, which was light and dark green, too, in places. Across
the green plain wound a dark red road, with a little white
village on the coast. Back of us, to the south, lay Honolulu,
embowered in its foliage. The two sides of the island are
entirely different. There were six in our party, William
being the only boy. Four of us rode astride for the first
time, so we did not go very rapidly, as we found that our
muscles were weak. Honolulu, Saturday, April 27, 1895.
My letter must go on to-morrow's steamer, and I have
so much to tell you of all we have done this last week. Every
moment has been full, with bathing, riding and other
pleasures. I guess I have not told you of our warship, the Phila
delphia, which is stationed in Honolulu harbor. Every
Tuesday there is drill all the morning, and the amusement
for the whole town is to watch the proceedings. Of course
we girls had to go too, so we ordered our horses and rode
down to the large open space. After watching the marching
and countermarching for a while, the sun became too hot, and
we went off for a canter, coming back in time to march with
the troops to the wharf. It was a very pretty sight to see
the embarkation. The men were all in white, and the boats
white, too, with flags flying. A little steam launch pulled
them to the ship's side.
That afternoon we called at Oahu College, on a young
friend who is staying there. The school is very homelike,
standing in a large park with gardens back of it. We
enjoyed the time immensely going over the beautiful place.
The twenty-fifth was my brother's birthday, and also the
natal day of one of the girls in our party — the "twins," we
called them. Of course great plans were made for that day.
2

18 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
The day before was spent in preparation,. buying all sorts of
ridiculous presents, etc. We planned a picnic for six of us,
and decided to go around the coast to a sheltered, retired
spot, of which we had heard. The road was hot and dusty,
with little shade, but we were having a lovely time. Our
picnic-ground was on the seashore, under some scrubby old
trees. Near by was a little old schoolhouse, and there we
obtained water in an old white pitcher. The horses we
unharnessed partly, so as to give the poor creatures a rest.
It was not so easy harnessing, though, for we were all
inexperienced. It was a hot, dusty drive home in the after
noon sunshine, and we were soon covered with a fine, red
dust. As we passed Illanaii — our bathing-place — ^the tempta
tion was too strong, and we had a cooling plunge. It made
us a little hurried, for after we went home we had to get
the flowers and see about our dinner table for the evening.
At one of the little gardens on the mountain slopes we
found some rose bushes, which the destroying bugs had not
touched, and so had a very pretty centerpiece — an unusual
one for Honolulu, too, strange as it may seem in this land
of flowers. Several years ago a bug came over from Japan
in some way, and now all the roses are dying. There was
a pretty lamp on the table ; so when we sat down, with our
bright-colored dresses, and the men all in white, it must have
looked very nice. We created quite a sensation in the dining-
room, anyway. After dinner we went up on the porch — or
lanai, as it is called here — and had games and music.
Yesterday we spent the morning in the museum, which
is very fine, containing the best collection of Hawaiian curios
in existence. The Kamehameha School, where the museum
is situated, is a very fine institution, where hundreds of
Hawaiian boys and girls are educated. No one can attend,
however, unless he has some native blood in his veins.
In the afternoon we girls were invited, with eighteen
others, out to a beautiful country home for a bathing party.
We went out by train together, hostess and all. The grounds

HONOLULU. 19
were very lovely with foliage, lawns and lake, besides a
large porcelain-lined tank, surrounded by a high stone wall.
The house was composed of several parts, scattered about
here and there. One of the houses was real Hawaiian, con
sisting of a single room, with the bed nearly as large as the
room and covered with soft, white matting; the pillows were
of finely-woven grass. The house was of woven palm leaves,
too, with thatched roof.
Such a good time as we had at our bath, in the clear,
cool water. Some of the girls swam and dove like mermaids,
and we less experienced ones enjoyed watching their antics.
After we had dressed, and dried our hair in the sun, refresh
ments were served on the wide porch of the principal house,
and soon we had to wend our way homeward. When we
left, our hostess presented each with a pineapple or bunch
of grapes as a memento of our pleasant afternoon. This
morning we went to Illanaii for another bath — our last, I
am afraid at this beautiful beach — and this afternoon have
been on board the Philadelphia. The officers were most kind
in showing us all over their beautiful boat, and regaling us
with refreshments afterward.
I feel as though this is a brief account of these pleas
ant days, but they are beyond description. The kindliness
and hospitality of these charming people have tO' be experi
enced in order to appreciate them. Beautiful Hawaii ! We
shall be sorry to leave you.
Honolulu, Tuesday, April 30, 1895.
We sail this afternoon, and are all packed. We are
very tired, after the many good times of the week past,
and the rest on board the steamer will do us good. We
have been showered with flowers by our friends here, and our
necks are loaded with leis — or good-luck offerings. The
lei is a garland of flowers peculiar to Hawaii, and is hung
about the neck of the departing friend.

20 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Steamship Coptic, O. & O.,
Between Hawaiian Islands and Japan,
Wednesday, May i, 1895.
We are rolling away once more, but over a very smooth
sea. We have a fine boat, all newly fitted with the latest
improvements. We are not seasick, only feel a little un
comfortable at times. It always takes me a day or two to
get accustomed to the motion, however slight, after being
on shore for a week or so. We left Honolulu at four o'clock
yesterday. It was hard to say good-bye to the friends we
had met. I do not know how we are going to like the people
on board; there are two ladies who look pleasant, and one
or two of the men. The most of the passengers have come
through from San Francisco, and have become acquainted.
This is our longest voyage for a long time.
The coast of Oahu was so beautiful last night as we
passed by — the bluish-gray mountains, surmounted by
fleecy clouds, the houses nestling among the trees, the
rugged coast line and white breakers, with the blue sea in
the foreground. It grew dark before we turned the last
point and steered our course out into the wide, wide waters.
I was deluged with water last night. As I was
reposing in the upper berth, with a porthole open above me,
a big wave came right in — saucy fello.w! Fortunately, it
only soaked the counterpEuie. Thursday, May 2, 1895.
Still such a smooth sea, but the wind is getting a little
cooler. Yesterday it was as hot as it was on shore, and we
wore our shirtwaists; but to-day we are glad of something
warmer. We have been reading, and sewing on our fancy-
work, but time is very long. Monday, May 6, 1895.
I have felt too miserable to write during these last days.
There has been nothing to write about, though ; every hour

EN ROUTE TO JAPAN. 21
is like every other hour. We get up about half-past seven,
have breakfast at half-past eight, luncheon at one and dinner
at half-past six. Between times, we sit either on deck all
in a row, or in the salon reading or sewing. For a variety,
I take a nap occasionally. This is a fearfully stupid life on
board a steamer. I have had another fright about that port
hole being open again. They opened it, and I have had
two soakings. I could not sleep last night, expecting a
wave to come in any moment. I rang for the "boy," but
no one answered, so I took my bedding — as much as was
dry — and went onto the couch. I don't think they will open
the port again, for I have spoken to the stewardess, and
she said she would attend to it for me. The stewards are
Chinamen, and they make believe they understand every
word you say, whether they do or not, so I could talk all
day to them. The stewardess is an American.
We are gradually getting into cooler weather, and have
had to put on warm clothing once more. Yesterday was
Saturday, and to-day is Monday. It seems so queer.
Mamma is a little mixed up, at least Papa tries to make her
think she is. We hope to get to Yokohama Saturday morn
ing, at our present rate of speed.
There are several hundred Japanese and Chinese on
board, and we enjoy watching them as they lie on the deck
below — men, women and children. The latter are very cun
ning, and look just like the dolls we see at home, with their
little shaven heads. The mothers and fathers seem as proud
of them as we do of our babies, strange to say. Sometimes
the older ones play games, for they are just like children in
loving amusements; such a chattering as they keep up,
though. The sea is so quiet that our gentlemen get a little
exercise by playing quoits and ring-toss, and miles and miles
are paced off on the smooth, clean decks. One of the gen
tlemen, Mr. B  , of New York, is an artist, and yesterday
afternoon he painted a sketch of a little Japanese girl, in

22 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
her bright-colored costume; she looked very pretty and de
mure. We have a Japanese and a Chinese family among
the flrst-class passengers, also a high Chinese dignitary.
The latter is a very solemn individual, dressed in a royal
purple gown, lined with bright grass-green. On his head is
a cap, and he smokes a curious pipe, trimmed most fantas
tically with colored beads and silken cords.
Wednesday, May 8, 1895.
Yesterday we saw a score of immense fish, which at first
we took to be whales, but afterward found to be dogfish.
They are very large, and sport in the water like porpoises.
We are having a rough sea just now, and I can hardly keep
my seat at the little writing-desk. Friday, May 10, 1895.
This time to-morrow night we hope to be in port, for
we have made very good time the last few hours. To-day
the sea has been hke a millpond, with scarcely a ripple.
William saw a whale spout this afternoon, but only once,
so that the rest of 'is missed it. There is so little life on
the waters that even such a small occurrence creates quite
an excitement. We had an elaborate dinner to-night — ^it
being our last on board — and the tables looked very pretty
with all sorts of bright-colored jellies and fruits. We pass
the steamship China to-night some time on her way to
San Francisco. What a pity we just miss her, to send our
mail back, but there will probably be another boat soon.

CHAPTER II.
Grand Hotel, Yokohama, Japan,
Sunday, May 12, 1895.
We are once more on land, and it does seem so good
to be off the rolling sea. Yesterday was a very disagree
able day. Mamma was up on deck at half-past five o'clock,
and we girls soon after. It was a beautiful morning, but
before breakfast the sea became very rough, and we were
all prostrated with seasickness. Everyone was anxiously
looking for Fuji's Peak, but the clouds were . too dense.
About eleven the first glimpse of land was seen, but we
approached very slowly. The captain was strange in these
waters and did not know his route very well, and we soon
discovered that we were several miles out of our course up
the coast. It made only a little delay, however, and soon
we entered the bay of Tokio. The irregular coast line was
very beautiful — a misty, hazy green, with the mistier water
near at hand, covered with tiny fishing craft flying to and
fro. As we neared Yokohama, just before sunset, the clouds
lifted, and the nestling villages were plainly visible, with
their peaked straw-thatched roofs embedded in feathery
foliage. Here and there a many-storied pagoda reared its
head over all, or a European house showed plainly that we
were not coming to entirely heathen lands.
Another promontory was rounded, and Yokohama
burst on our vision — a sight good tO' eyes tried with an
eleven days' voyage on boundless, rolling waves. The city
lay in shadow, with darkening hills about and the sun sink
ing in heavy clouds behind. The twinkling lights were just
23

24 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
beginning to shine on land and in the harbor. Boats were
flying everywhere, and great men-of-war and merchant ships
rode at anchor on the placid waters. I never saw such a
gorgeous sunset as met our gaze that evening, as we stood
waiting by the ship's side to go ashore. It drew our atten
tion even from the novel sights all about us; it seemed as
though we were looking into a huge, burning crater, with
the black rock scattered in grotesque forms all about it.
The effect, as the light orange and red were reflected in the
waters and caught by every spar and point on the boats,
was gorgeous indeed.
After a good deal of delay we were taken off on a
steam launch and landed at the stone steps of the custom
house. Then, leaving William to attend to the baggage, we
secured j'inrikishas and proceeded to our hotel through the
dark streets. Jt was such fun to see us all in a line in our
two-wheeled baby carriages. I felt quite silly. The hotel
looked bright and comfortable, and we were soon settled
for the night. Yokohama, Monday, May 13, 1895.
, To begin with, how do you like my paper? I buy it in
a long roll of about a dozen yards, and it costs eight cents
a roll. The Japanese all use it, writing with a brush and
India ink.
O, this is the most fascinating place for shopping ! We
want to buy everything we see, but do not intend to do any
purchasing yet. It is much better to wait, and so become
accustomed to everything — be educated, in fact, as to the
difference in the wares. We think now that the place for
purchasing is Kyoto, which is one of the largest cities in
the kingdom, and one of the largest manufacturing places
also. There is a large fair being held there now.
I must tell you all about this fascinating place. We
spent yesterday riding about in the j'inrikishas, and such fun
as it was. We three women started about nine in the morn-

YOKOHAMA. 25
ing and rode all over town. A good many of the stores
were closed, but the street life was just as picturesque. I
felt as if I were back at the "Midway" and if I wished could
go outside of the gates and find Chicago all about me.
At eleven we went to church and heard a very good
sermon ; then back to luncheon, or tiffin, as we must now
call it. The afternoon was also spent in j'inrikishas, but this
time Papa and William were with us, and we extended our
wanderings to the suburbs. Yokohama, as I said once before,
lies in an amphitheater of hills, and it was to the hills back
of the town that we went. There we found a most beautiful
garden, through which we had a nice walk, letting our
'rikisha men have a rest. We have found these men intelli
gent and faithful. On the summit of a hill, in the center
of the garden, were some seats, and there we enjoyed a most
glorious view of Fujisan, with the farming land and miniature
hills at its base. AU we could see of the sacred mountain
was its summit, looking like a fleecy cloud in the deep,
sparkling blue of the afternoon sky. It was more like a bit
of fairyland than a substantial mountain, and I do not won
der the Japanese love it. It is without exception the most
beautiful mountain peak I have ever seen.
Mrs. C  , a friend of Auntie's, called yesterday, and
this afternoon we are going to her house for tea. We don't
have dinner until eight o'clock over here, so afternoon tea
is a necessity. The hours for meals are thoroughly English,
and I suspect they will be right along.
Yokohama, Wednesday, May 15, 1895.
I am only half awake, and Isabel is slumbering in her
little bed in the corner, for the poor child was about worn
out yesterday. We had a very full day, for it was really our
first day of sightseeing. Until ten we inspected some of the
large curio shops near the hotel. Then we took the train
and rode for about three-quarters of an hour to Kamakura,
where we visited three temples. In one there was a very

26 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
interesting museum, containing old swords, suits of armor
and curious lacquerwork. Another was the celebrated Dai
Butsu, or Great Buddha. That was magnificent, standing
out in the open air, surrounded only by a beautiful grove of
trees and the encircling hills. It once had a beautiful temple
covering it, but the sea swept it away, and now only the
base of the columns can be seen. The Buddha impresses
one as does the Sphinx of Egypt — with a sense of awe.
There is the same calm on the face, only one seems to be
looking into the future across the sands, and the other's
eyes are cast down in reflection. In the third temple that
we visited there is another huge Buddha standing, made of
gold lacquer. The place where it stands, however, is very
dark — only lighted by candles — so we could not judge of
its beauty. Only on festal occasions is it tO' be seen well.
By the time we had seen these temples it was noon, and
we repaired to a very neat little hotel, where we had
luncheon. After an hour of rest, our j'inrikishas were again
taken for a ride through the rice-fields, with the quaint little
houses scattered along the roadside. We climbed a steep
hill, heavily wooded, and at last came out on to the sea
beach, with the great breakers rolling in. This we skirted
for a mile or more, and then came to a settlement, where
the bridge leads over to the Island, or rather Peninsula, of
Enoshima. Papa and William took the guide and visited
the curious rock temples and gardens for which the place
is famous, but the rest of us were too tired to take the walk
of over a mile ; it looked very beautiful, though. We rested
in a little tea-house, sipping tea and trying to eat the curious
rice cakes. I practiced using the chop-sticks, and succeeded
fairly well. The children who gathered around us were very
cunning, and seemed to be having a good time, with nothing
to play with. One little thing had a baby almost as large
as herself on her back. Another tot had a tiny baby, who
was fast asleep, with its little bald head bobbing over her
shoulder. Still, these children play about as though they

YOKOHAMA. 2T
were free of any weight, running and jumping, and almost
turning somersaults.
Our ride to the station was very pleasant, for the sun
was going down, softening all the gold and green to beau
tiful tints. We do enjoy our jinrikisha rides.
Mrs. C  came to dinner. She brought Mamma a
lovely bunch of roses picked from her own garden. In
the evening we took some Wikishas for our evening ride
through the streets. We were fortunate in finding when
Ave got out that it was a festival night, so there was more
life than usual. It was very pretty to see the little shops
strung with lanterns. The most of the lanterns were in the
shape of great white balls, with a red sun on either side — the
national emblem. All the streets were thronged, and ped
dlers were in every conceivable corner — even in the middle
of the streets, their wares spread on the ground. The
theaters seemed very well patronized and looked attractive,
but we did not stop there. Yokohama, Thursday, May i6, 1895.
We expected to go to Tokio to-day, but have given it
up until later. Yesterday we spent most of the time in the
silk shops. They have such lovely things, embroidered ; tea-
gowns, covered with exquisite patterns of flowers and birds ;
picture frames, mats, tea-cozies and everything imaginable.
They seem so cheap to us, too, with our ideas of labor and
time. About four o'clock we rode up on the hill where the
foreigners live. Such lovely gardens and comfortable houses
as we saw! We visited a beautiful garden, belonging to a
florist, and reveled in the flowers. There were one or two
trees with a few cherry blossoms still on them, the only
ones we have seen. We are so disappointed to have just
missed the cherry blossom season, but we see signs of it
everywhere, and from descriptions know the festivals must
be beautiful. We have been to a tea-firing establishment to-day, and

28 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
have seen the whole process, from the time the fresh leaves
are brought in from the farms, to where they are packed
for shipment. Men, women and children work at it, and I
must say the process does not seem very clean. The babies
were there, too — poor little things — some of them scream
ing at the top of their lungs for attention. This afternoon
we had a pleasant ride out to Mississippi Bay, where the
people go for bathing and all sorts of summer pleasures.
Yokohama, Friday Evening, May 17, 1895.
All day we have been in Tokio, leaving here about ten.
It has been a gloomy day, therefore the city did not look as
beautiful as it might. The ride taken was very delightful,
however, as the road follows the coast line in places. All
along there were lotus ponds, with their broad, green leaves;
the flowers are not yet out. Tokio seems very much more
Japanese than here. There are large public buildings in
European style, but very few European residences that we
saw, and no Europeans on the street. It is an immense
city, and the distances from place to place are very great.
We visited the great Shiba Temple, which is very beautiful.
We took off our shoes, and were shown the most sacred
places. Such carvings, and rich-toned lacquers, and sweet,
soft mattings! These temples have a very holy air about
them, for hardly a sound breaks the stillness, and everything
is so dim and mysterious. Shiba is a very large temple —
or rather, a collection of temples — and contains the remains
of many prominent men, the shoguns, or prime ministers,
of old Japan. These men were formerly as high in office
as the Emperor, but they are now deposed. The court
yards leading to the temple are filled with huge lanterns,
made of bronze and stone, some of them very beautiful in
design. These are offerings, and some are kept Hghted
at night. We find the Imperial Hotel very good indeed, and like
it better than the "Grand" at Yokohama. It is almost empty,
however, and seems lonesome.

YOKOHAMA. 29
The afternoon was spent in the curio shops, and our
heads were nearly turned, with all the beautiful things. We
reveled in ivory carvings, rare gold lacquer, cloisonne' and
inlaid bronze. The rain still continued, but we were not
sorry, as we saw for the first time the straw rain coats and
huge white paper umbrellas, that we have so often read
about. It was a very picturesque sight. The women tuck
up their clothes to the knees, and, as they wear no stockings,
they paddle fearlessly along, their umbrellas keeping the up
per part of their costumes entirely dry. On their feet, some
times, they have high wooden clogs, but often are barefoot.
Of course we usually see only the working people, but they
all dress so much alike that the classes of society are hard
to distinguish. Yokohama, Saturday, May i8, 1895,
This letter goes off to-morrow, so I must close to-night.
We are very tired, for we have been looking in the shops
all day. Have been getting provisions for our future ex
cursions into the interior also, and doing all sorts of odds
and ends, so as to be ready to start for Kyotoi early Monday
morning. We go only a little more than half way, and
then stop for the night, continuing to Kyoto the next day.
There is a dear little lady going with us — a Mrs. S  , from
New York. She and her husband came over with us on the
Coptic, but he is here on business, so she will be left a great
deal alone, and is free to travel with us. She is lively and
interesting, so I know we shall find her a great addition
to our party. Good-night and good-bye for now.
Nagoya, Japan, Tuesday, May 21, 1895.
I have not had a moment to write for two days. Sun
day, when your letter was steaming out of the harbor.
Mamma and I were at church. Isabel had a violent cough,
and so could not go. We made some calls in the afternoon
on Mrs. C  and a Mrs. McW  , who lives opposite the

30 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
hotel in a flat. The latter called on us the first of the week,
and seems very pleasant. Saturday our packing had to be
done; there seems to be more to put in our trunks every
time. We met Mr. and Mrs. N  , of Chicago, in the even
ing, and enjoyed them very much. They have just come
around the world, and we were interested in hearing of their
experiences. Monday morning saw us up at half-i>ast five, tO' take a
seven o'clock train. All day we rode through a beautiful
country, part of the way mountainous — ^with Fujiama over
topping it all — and part of the way farming land. It is all
farming land for that matter, for every bit of soil is culti
vated, even the hilltops. Some of the little fields would
not be more than a foot square, but each spear of grain
stood up as straight as could be, every stalk especially culti
vated. The Japanese certainly know how to farm. The
grain is just about ready to harvest, and the country is,
therefore, especially beautiful, with the golden colors con
trasting with the green foliage. The rice crop goes in next,
and we could see tiny beds of it almost ready to transplant.
It is of such a bright, intense green.
At seven we arrived at this place, and, after quite a long
jinrikisha ride, reached this queer little hotel, which is more
Japanese than European. There are only four bedrooms for
foreigners, and the rest, dining-room included, are on the
native plan. We have tables and chairs, however, and fairly
good food, and are very comfortable. As we were seated at
dinner we were visited by curio dealers — really our first
experience with the sort that annoys one in a hotel. In
Yokohama they were not allowed inside the door, but of
course there is no such law here. After dinner we went
for a stroll in the streets, which were lighted only by paper
lanterns. It was very pretty, and thoroughly Japanese.
We were great objects of interest, as very few Europeans
live here. There was not much to see, except some per
forming apes, and the crowds which followed us were so
very unpleasant that we did not stay out long.

KYOTO. 81
The Japs have no idea of music; the Dahomey village
at the World's Fair was as much like it as anything.
Kyoto, Thursday Evening, May 23, 1895.
Such busy people as we are now ! Every moment is full
from early morning until night, and I can assure you that
by evening we are quite tired out.
We arrived Tuesday night just about sunset, having left
Nagoya at noon. We passed through the most fertile part
of Japan, and very beautiful, too, with its waving grain just
turning to gold. There were some mountains and a few
lakes here and there, but mostly flat farming land.
Our hotel here is very quaint, and comfortable, too. It
consists of three or four houses of different heights, con
nected by broad covered piazzas. Up and down and in and
out the passages twist and turn, so it is quite difficult finding
one's way about. We are on a steep mountainside, em
bedded in foliage, with the most glorious view across the
broad valley, in which Kyoto lies, to the distant mountain
range. The morning after we arrived we went to the great
National Exposition, which is now being held here, and
stayed until noon. It is very fine, indeed — entirely Japanese
— showing all the arts, manufactures and products generally
of the empire. The exhibits are beautifully arranged, and
we thoroughly enjoyed looking at all the lovely things. In
the afternoon we visited some temples and a large porcelain
factory. There are several hundred temples in Kyoto, so I do
not pretend to remember their names. I have to confess
that the street life and the shops are much more interesting,
but probably my taste will become educated as we see more.
To-day we have been to two more temples, in one of which
there were over three thousand statues of Buddha — so they
said; I did not count them, I noticed, however, that many
of these statues had a large number of arms, legs and heads,
and I suspect that is one way the number is made up.

32 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
About half of each day is spent in the silk and curio
shops, which are so fascinating that our heads are nearly
turned. We are not even free from it all in our rooms, for
the small dealers follow us there. One came at half-past ten
last night and wanted to unpack his wares, and since I
began this letter two others have been here, and it is nearly
eleven. We are so very tired, too, that it is a decided
nuisance. Kyoto, Friday, May 24, 1895.
IVe have seen the Mikado to-day. He was on his way
to the exposition, and we had a good view of him as he
drove by in his closed carriage. He had a number of attend
ants on horseback, and one ambassador in the carriage with
him. The street was crowded, of course, cis he is not often
seen here, his home being mostly in Tokio. No one is
allowed to look down upon his majesty. If a person is on
the second story of a house, he must descend when the
Mikado passes; even the passengers in thej'inrikishas must
alight and stand on the ground with uncovered heads. The
male portion of the Japanese people now usually wear
European hats, so the latter law is not unnecessary. This
Mikado is very simple and unassuming in his manners, and
shows himself to his people quite frequently ; but after seeing
the ceremony still practiced, we wondered what the former
rulers expected of their subjects. After he had passed we
visited some shops, and so the morning flew before we
knew it.
This afternoon was spent in the most beautiful temple
we have yet visited. It is just newly built, but is perfect in
every way, and very large. Everywhere the eye meets gor
geous gold and rich red lacquers, and carvings in natural
wood, relieved by gleaming metals, both base and precious.
It is the first temple which I have thoroughly enjoyed.
They are usually musty and old, and one has to stretch the
imagination to see the beautiful.
The city is very picturesque just now. To-morrow they

KYOTO. 33
are to celebrate the peace which followed the war with
China. Lanterns are strung everywhere, in every street —
red and white, all sizes and shapes. From poles strings of
small flags are stretched all the way down the hillsides, so
that they can be seen from across the valley. Color every
where, and all in motion. It is a pretty sight, and just suited
to this nation of children.
It is evening now, and as we look down from our high
porch, the twinkling lights are everywhere, with here and
there an electric globe. Overhead the stars are unusually
brilliant, looking as though they wished to join in the cele
bration of peace. Kyoto, Sunday, May 26, 1895.
Yesterday William and I spent among the second-hand
stores, but we did not find many treasures. In the afternoon
and evening the street life was very attractive. It was a
grand holiday time, and everyone was in his gayest attire.
All the girls wore their prettiest gowns, and were painted
and powdered, and their coal-black hair stuck full of gay-
colored hairpins. Flags were flying, and bright-colored lan
terns swinging. The crowds are very orderly here, no push
ing and but little noise. We felt as though we were subjects
from a dime museum out for a constitutional, with Matsuda
(our guide) as keeper. When we attempted to go into the'
streets we could not stop to examine a thing but what we
were surrounded, and a great crowd followed us everywhere.
No one molested us, though, only stared and stared.
Kyoto, Japan, Tuesday, May 27, 1895.
We have had the pleasantest day to-day of any since
we landed in Japan. Now we four women are sitting around
our little round table with two lamps. Mamma is embroid
ering and the others are looking at some curios, as usual ; this
time it is bamboo> canes.
We started off this morning about nine o'clock in our
j'inrikishas,with. two men pulling tandem, one in the shaft of

34 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
the carriage and the other pulling with a cord fastened
around his shoulders. Away we clattered through the town,
then out through the grain-fields, past smaller towns. At
one place we stopped a few minutes tO' rest and have tea.
By this time we were across the wide valley and beginning
to ascend the opposite mountain slopes. Soon we were in
bamboo and pine forests, with deep valleys and steep moun
tainsides. At last we passed through a long, black tunnel,
and then out on to the other side of the mountain, with beau
tiful, fertile valleys stretching before our view. At length,
we stopped beside a broad, rapid stream, at a little tea-house,
and after some delay secured a large, flat-bottomed scow
to take us down the river. Some of thej'inrikishas we took
in with us, but the others went around by road to meet us
later. I never took a boat ride that I enjoyed more. It
seemed every instant that we should surely strike one of the
many rocks around which the water rushed and foamed — the
river was full of rapids. We knew we were perfectly safe,
but it was decidedly exciting to go racing down among the
rocks, with the foaming waters all about. We seemed to be
just about to strike a great rock, when a push with' the long
bamboo pole in the hands of one of our boatmen would send
us shooting in the opposite direction. I sat in one of the
j'inrikishas in the center of the boat, with the others grouped
about my feet, and felt as though I were the central figure in
McMonnie's fountain, except for the costume. The scenery
was very fine; mountains rose precipitously on either side,
clothed with beautiful green. The birds sang, and the air
was heavy with the scent of flowers, fresh-cut wood and all
sorts of good smells. In and out we wound, sometimes
seemingly coming to the end of our course, but a way always
opened. It took about an hour and a half, and about three
o'clock we arrived at a little town and had our luncheon in
a tea-house overlooking the river. From there we took our
j'inrikishas once more for home. I was pretty tired, and
almost went to sleep going through the town, but I hap-

KYOTO. 35
pened to open my eyes just once, and caught the astonished
look on some people's faces. That gave me a start, and I
managed to keep awake until I reached my room, and then
I gave up and had a good nap.
Kyoto, Wednesday Evening, May 28, 1895.
To-day we have been to some more temples, and I must
tell you of one particularly beautiful one. It is very large
and is the original from which that new one, of which I spoke
the other day, was copied. The floors are rich and darkly
polished, like mirrors, and the matting so fine and soft. The
walls are sliding panels of rich gold paper, and very valuable,
being works of the foremost Japanese artists. The paint
ings, for there are paintings on the gold panels, are really
works of art, even to our Western notions. These rooms are
more like those of a palace than a temple, and are used as
audience chambers and committee rooms. The Japanese
have no furniture and no ornaments in their houses, except
an occasional vase or panel. The tiny tables and soft silk
mats are carried from room to room, and are not usually in
sight. Of course, these rooms have not this much in the
way of furniture, but are absolutely empty. The temple
proper has its shrine, and gold and lacquer tables, bells and
lanterns of gleaming metals, as in other places, but it is all un
usually rich and costly. In one place there is a huge store
house, with piles of grain in sacks; these are offerings from
the people. From there we went into the garden adjoining
and fed the goldfish and carp. The most of the temples
have a garden, with a miniature lake with stone bridges and
little islands. The lake is always full of fish, which no one is
allowed to touch, but they are fed by all who come, so are
very fat and tame.
To-morrow we have planned another long excursion, so
I must be going to bed. Since I have been sitting here
some beautiful fireworks have been shooting off in the town.
It looks very gay down there.

36 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Papa and William are here in our room with us, talking
over our future trip, but we can only look a very little way
ahead, and it is not much use to plan, except from day to
day. We are all anxious to get on, and the year ahead seems
very long. Kyoto, Friday Morning, May 31, 1895.
We had a long, though interesting, day yesterday, and
I was too tired to write last night. Our j'inrikishas were
taken early, and we rode through some beautiful valleys to
Lake Biwa, a large sheet of water about six miles from
Kyoto. The road was the old Tokaido, which in olden times
was the great thoroughfare between Kyoto and Tokio, and
is still a very busy place. On the shore of Lake Biwa we
reached a large town, where we visited a very large temple.
The view from one of the hills on which the temple is built
is very fine, looking off over the lake, glittering in the sun
shine, to the sandy hills in the distance. Some of the latter
looked as though they had had a recent snowstorm, but it
was only a chalky substance. It was a dreary-looking tract
of country. At our feet, however, all along the main shore
of the lake, the fields were very green and fertile, and the
town bustled with life and prosperity. The temple grounds,
which lay on the sunny hillside, were extensive and beau
tiful, and there were flights of steps leading here and there
amidst the trees, with torii of stone or red lacquer over
arching them. The buildings attached to the temple were
scattered everywhere, each holding its own sacred relic,
which had some legend connected with it.
From the temple we rode along the lake shore through
the grain-fields, to an old, old pine tree. It was not very
tall, but its wide-spreading branches covered three-fourths
of an acre. It was propped up everwhere, and in some
places where it had begun to decay, cement had been put in,
or little roof-like affairs built to protect some weak place from
the weather. Did you ever hear of a tree being cared for

KYOTO. 37
so tenderly? We took luncheon at a Httle tea-house near
the tree, and I had a delightful nap on the sweet-scented
matting, with a quilt rolled up for a pillow. We have had
cloth overshoes made, to enter these Japanese houses and
temples; the steps, though, leading to the second floor, are
so very slippery that we have to be careful and not fall head
foremost. There is nothing to hold on to, so we have to
descend backwards — for the present, anyway.
Our route home was varied by taking a flat-bottomed
boat, and coming by canal. It was a most novel experience.
There were three tunnels en route, one taking at least a half-
hour to go through. We sat on the floor of the boat, on
small mats, with a low wooden roof over our heads. A red
paper lantern hung from the roof, and outside an oil lamp
sputtered, casting most weird shadows. Boats passed us,
laden with cargo, and manned with almost naked boatmen,
whose skins glistened with perspiration. It was decidedly
ghostly, and reminded one of some of Rider Haggard's
stories. To-day we have not been doing much but rest.
Kyoto, Saturday, June i, 1895,
About the only thing we have done to-day is to have
visited at the mission compound. We met some very pleas
ant people there. A Miss Denton is trying to start a Wo
man's Christian Temperance Union, but it is only a begin
ning. She intends to start on the social purity line, as it is
in that direction that they are most interested. There is very
little drunkenness here, however, but .some phases of Japan
ese social life must be fearful. Our guide said the other day
that he would like to have three or four wives — he has one
now. But people do not marry for love in this country;
indeed, it is considered out of place to love one's husband or
wife. Matsuda cannot endure us women, and it went against
him dreadfully to take us to the mission this morning. He
is a strict Buddhist, and has no use for missionaries.

38 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Sunday, June 2, 1895.
This is a very warm day, the hottest we have had in
Japan. It makes us pity our 'rikisha men as they plod on
ahead of us. We four women went to church this morning,
over at the mission. They have asked us to supper at half-
past five. Mamma, Mrs. S  and I will probably go. Isa
bel's cough is so troublesome that she would better not go
out. Last night a Japanese gentleman, Mr. N  , whom
Papa met in Chicago, invited us to the fashionable club here,
to hear a concert and see some dancing. We went after sup
per, but were a little late, and so missed part of the music.
The players sat at one end of the hall on the floor, which was
on the same level with the audience. Most of the people sat
on thin little cushions on the floor, but the Europeans and
the men who have copied our costumes sat on chairs. There
were three blind men performers, and two women who were
not blind. They played on instruments a little like a banjo,
and used a very large pick. Another instrument, lying on
the floor, looked like a huge zither. Such a noise as they
made! It did not sound like music to us, but more as a
child would drum, and the dancing was no better; at least
we understood it just as little. It consisted of twists and
turns of the body, and sudden springs into the air, or a col
lapse onto the heels. The postures were sometimes rather
pretty, with their gay, picturesque draperies, but the way
they changed from one to the other was anything but grace
ful. Never a smile came over the faces of the dancers at
any time. Kyoto, Tuesday, June 4, 1895.
We have been exceedingly busy since Sunday, and this
has been my first opportunity to write. I told you that we
were going over to the mission houses Sunday afternoon,
which we did, and had such a good time. We went to Miss
Denton's home, and found they were having a meeting of
Japanese girls from the school. We enjoyed hearing them

KYOTO. 39
sing from the gospel hymns, both in their own tongue and
in English. Some of the girls offered prayer, too. At the
close the Japanese national hymn was sung. We had a nice,
homelike supper with Miss Denton, and some of the other
teachers, and spent a most enjoyable evening. As we came
through the streets on our way home we were surprised to
see how quiet they were, not at all as on week days. It
looked as if the Sabbath were kept, but I suspect not, as
Kyoto is a very conservative place, and it is hard to change
the Buddhists to Christians. Miss Denton said that most
of the girls in the school were from the country.
Yesterday was spent in some of the stores around the
exposition and in packing. Oh, I am so, so tired of this
eternal packing ! And to think that we have only begun.
At four o'clock Mamma and I went again to Miss Den
ton's home, to a social purity meeting of Japanese ladies and
gentlemen. Mamma and I both told of our work at home,
speaking through an interpreter. Mamma made quite a
speech. After a time I went into another room and had
a long talk with some of the younger women, who could
speak English very well. They were interested in compar
ing their life with the lives of our American girls.
This noon we start for some places south of here, return
ing to Kyoto the last of the week.
Osaka, Japan, Wednesday, June 5, 1895.
We have been out all day, as usual, looking at temples.
I do wish there were not so many of them. We left Kyoto
yesterday, and after a short railway journey reached the busi
est city we have been in yet. The train was very much
crowded, even in the first-class compartments, so we had
a good opportunity to study the people. There were some
very pretty girls in with us, with some young men, and they
seemed to be having a pleasant time, laughing and joking.
We have a very good hotel here, at least the building
is good. Some parts of it might belong to a public office.

40 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
it is so large and the ceilings are so high. There are thirty-
seven steps coming up one flight.
We have seen the pupil of Buddha's eye, so they say.
At least we saw a little round, black object, looking like a
piece of shot, in a glass case, and enveloped in at least a
dozen pieces of rich brocade, each tied with a heavy cord and
tassel. This temple was visited on our way to Nara, where
there are several beautiful and richly endowed temples and
extensive parks. In one of these parks deer wander at their
pleasure, and are so tame that they will eat from one's hand.
Row after row of lanterns of bronze and stone, lining the
pathway, announce the approach to the temple where these
deer are held sacred. Another temple contains a large statue
of Buddha. We had our luncheon under the wide-spreading
trees in a pretty little garden.
The people here are very curious about us, even more
so than in Kyoto. We cannot stop to buy or look at a
thing in the shops, but what we have a crowd about us in a
moment. If we go to our windows here at the hotel the
people stand in groups, open-mouthed, looking.
We have decided that Isabel has the whooping cough,
so do not feel so anxious about her as we did.
Osaka, Thursday, June 6, 1895.
To-day has been a busy one. This morning we visited
the mint, which was exceedingly interesting, as the officials
were very kind in showing us every process. From there
we went to what is called "the Castle." The latter is a place
enclosed by three huge walls and moats, heavily fortified.
At one time a castle stood in the midst, but this was several
years ago, and the enclosure is now only used as a garrison.
We wished principally to see the huge stones in the walls, and
get the fine view of the city from the summit, and as the
whole structure is built on a hill, we could see for miles
around, and a long way out upon the sparkling waters of
the ocean.

OSAKA. 41
This afternoon we drove out to Sakai and visited some
of the large carpet and rug manufactories. The rugs are
poor sorts of things, compared with those from India and
Persia, but do very well for these people, who wear no shoes
indoors. They are usually woven by children, ranging from
two years up to almost any age. Often whole families would
be working on one rug, the mother or father superintend
ing. It was rather pitiful to see the little tots working away
at the threads, their fingers hardly strong enough to pull
the knots firmly. On our way home we stopped at several
temples, and some curious old sacred trees.
The city is all excitement, over the arrival of troops
to-morrow. The decorations are very fine, indeed, and our
hotel is in the midst of it all. Triumphal arches and cano
pies of greenery and natural flowers extend all along the
street, and everywhere over the city is string after string of
lanterns and millions of flags. The people are in holiday
attire, and as there are a great many in from the country for
this great occasion, you can imagine the noise and con
fusion, as well as the gay colors. The boys, a good many of
them in striped clothes, look as if they might have come out
of prison, and the girls are equally as ridiculous. We
thought that Kyoto was lovely wheui she tried to decorate
her streets, but Osaka is very much ahead.
Just out of our windows they have put up a large canopy
bound with blue and white stripes. On the top is perched
a huge eagle, and we have been wondering if it is meant as
a special honor to us, or if it has some particular Japanese
signification. Osaka, Friday Afternoon, June 7, 1895.
Such a noise as there is here to-day ! Drums beating,
horns tooting and bells clanging, with the surging crowd
constantly passing beneath our windows, making a con
tinuous click, click, click, with the wooden clogs that are
worn.

42 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
It is simply impossible to describe the beauty of the
sights to be seen on every hand. Picture to yourself the
scenes of which you have read of the carnivals in ancient
Venice, and I think you can get some idea. There are a
great many canals here, and the river runs into the sea by
several mouths, so it is not unlike Venice in that respect.
On these waterways there are immense floats and rafts, all
decorated with flags and lanterns and manned by men
dressed in all sorts of grotesque costumes and gay colors.
This afternoon we sat on the river's bank, near the hotel,
and watched a very beautiful performance by some dancing
girls on one of the floats. They wore long, flowing robes
of red and blue, and carried bunches of blue iris. Their
movements were very graceful and quiet, and altogether the
scene was beautiful.
Later: We have been stationed at our windows ever
since dinner was over, watching the crowd. First, there
was a Ipng procession of men carrying lanterns, which we
could see coming for miles, winding in and out of the streets
and across the bridge. Crowds still pass our windows, and
occasionally a party of boys dressed in costume, carrying
lanterns and dancing. We can hardly keep from the win
dows, for there is constantly something new. Now as I
write there is someone making a great racket ; another party
goes by with lanterns fastened on top of their heads, and so
it goes on.
Poor Isabel has lost her watch to-day. We think it was
taken from her chain, as she was walking across the street
to get into her jinrikisha. It is the only place it could have
been taken, as she did not step on the ground once all the
time we were out, and it would have been impossible for any
one to have reached it any other time. We have set the
police on the track, of course, but none of us are very hope
ful. The chain and the little gold whistle she wore on it
were not taken.
We called on a Mr. and Mrs. G  , missionaries here.

KYOTO. 43
this morning, but found them out. They came to see us this
afternoon, and the little girl stayed to dinner. There was
no display of fireworks, as we had expected, though, so we
were all disappointed. Mr. G  is a brother of the people
we saw in Honolulu. They have been here and in China
for a great many years.
I must be getting into bed now and see if it is possible
to get any sleep in this noise, for we start to-morrow.
Kyoto, Japan, Sunday, June 9, 1895.
We came here yesterday, through the rain. All the
pretty decorations of the day before were a thing of the
past. Even the bird on the arch inside our window, looked
woebegone. By the way, it was a hawk instead of an eagle,
so our pride had to come down a bit.
It seemed very homelike as we climbed up to our rooms
here at the "Yaami," and we are all glad to be back. In
the afternoon we went out to finish some of our purchases
and see that they were shipped properly. Papa has an eco
nomical fit on him just at present. They attack him peri
odically. I have just come from calling on a dear little American
woman, Mrs. B  . She and her husband and two little
girls are here on their vacation from Kobe. She has loaned
me a book called "A Japanese Bride," by Naomi Tamura.
It is one of Harper's Black and White series, so you might
get it if you like.
Mrs. S  left us last night at eleven o'clock for Yoko
hama, much to our sorrow. We miss her so' much, but
know that her husband misses her also. We hope she will
join us later.
Mamma and I went to church to-day, but Isabel could
not go on account of her cough. I do not remember if I
told you that we had decided she had the whooping cough.

44 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Kyoto, Monday Night, June lo, 1895.
We have finished our packing, and to-morrow we leave
Kyoto for Nagoya. We are sorry to leave this beautiful
place, where we have spent three very happy weeks. The
hotel is filling up rapidly just now, with nice-looking people.
A young American naval officer, whom we met on the rail
road train going to San Francisco, arrived to-day. It
seemed almost like meeting an old friend. He is a pleasant
young fellow.
To-day we have visited the palace and a beautiful castle
here. We saw the Mikado's bedchamber and thrones.
There are two of the latter, one for ordinary, everyday use,
consisting of straw mats raised a little from the floor, and
the other is a chair, which is also on a straw matted elevation.
These mats are at least two inches thick, and are just the
same as those that cover the floors of every Japanese house.
We went through endless rooms in both palace and castle,
one room almost the counterpart of all the others. The
only diff^erence was in the sliding screens, some of which
were very beautifully painted or lacquered, or in the wood
carving of the ceilings and spaces just above the screens. On
the exterior it is similar to any other Japanese building, ex
cept the size.
Later in the afternoon we, Isabel and I, went with Mr.
and Mrs. B — • — to invest in a collection of Japanese hairpins.
They are very gorgeous, but inexpensive, the highest being
worth only about twenty-five sen, or thirteen cents of our
money.

CHAPTER III.
Nagoya, Japan, Wednesday, June 12, 1895.
We expected to be on our route over the mountains to
day, but our bread was not baked, nor our sheets finished,
and Mamma not able to travel, so' we are patiently waiting for
things to straighten themselves out. Yesterday was spent
mostly on the train, returning the same way we went a few
weeks ago. It is very pleasant to return to a place, for
there is just a little of the home feeling about it. It is ex
tremely warm here, and we shall feel better when we get
into the mountains. Nagoya is on a large plain, with but
few hills in sight.
Mamma took cold last night, and to-day has an attack
of pleurisy. She was very ill in the night, so that we had
to give her morphia to deaden the pain. To-day she is in
bed, but feels much better.
This morning the rest of us visited the old castle. It
is really the only structure of the kind in Japan, and is very
curious. The building we saw in Kyoto- that they call a
"castle" is more Hke a palace than a place of defense. It
had a stronghold at one time, but it has been demolished,
and only the beautiful dwelling part remains. Here the
grand tower stands as it did hundreds of years ago. It is
built of wood on a stone foundation, and is surrounded by
three deep, wide moats. When in olden times the castle
was besieged, the men would fight until the third moat was
taken, then repair to the castle, and when all hope was gone,
would climb to the top story and kill themselves, having
previously set fire to the structure. That is probably what
45

46 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
happened to all the other castles, and now this one of Nagoya
is the only one left standing, and almost perfect. The tower
looks somewhat like a pagoda. Nagoya, Thursday Afternoon.
We are still in Nagoya, and will probably remain some
days longer. Mamma was up for dinner last night, but
the effort was too much for her. She was taken with dread
ful pain as soon as she got upstairs and we were afraid of
pneumonia, for she had such difficulty in breathing. We
called two physicians, both Japanese, but good, and they
pronounced it cold, which had settled in the muscles of the
left side, something like a stiff neck would be. It was very
painful and she did not sleep much, but is better to-day.
We are fairly comfortable here, though everyone about
us is Japanese. Travelers stopping here only remain one or
two nights, as the town, though a large one, has few at
tractions for visitors. It is situated on a large plain, so it
has a hot climate in summer, though there is usually a
breeze. William left us this morning for a trip to Isa, a town
where there are some interesting temples. He took no
guide, only ajinrikisha man who understands a little Eng
lish. He will have to live a la Japanese for a time, as there
are no English-speaking people where he is going, but he
will return in a few days.
This is a very noisy place. We are in the center of the
town, and all about us are tea-houses, where they teach
music, and such a din as there is nearly all of the time until
midnight, when they are compelled to stop by law, I believe.
The Japanese have no ear for music, according to European
ideas, and no nerves, either, for they can stand any amount
of noise. We have had such fun with our little waitresses; they
are pretty girls, and not at all bashful. William took their
photographs before he left this morning, and that pleased
them very much.

NAGOYA. 47
Nagoya, Friday Morning, June 14, 1895.
Mamma is much better, and we have all been out in
our j'inrikishas to give her a little outing. She was up yes
terday, but did not attempt to go to her meals. We have to
go down one flight of stairs and up another to get to the
dining-room, so you can see it is quite a journey, especially
as the stairs are steep. The people have been very kind and
attentive; it seems sometimes as though the little maids
would run their feet off, for they trot up and down stairs
so much. We have had a restful time here, which will do us good,
for we were tired-
It is very hot to-day, and the air heavy. It has been
raining, too, both yesterday and to-day. I suspect we may
look for a great deal of rain from now on.
Sunday, June 16, 1895.
Well, we are off to-morrow. Papa, William and I.
Mamma and Isabel are going to Yokohama, and .await our
arrival a week hence. We concluded it would be too much
for Mamma to go on such a trying journey, after her illness,
and Isabel goes to Yokohama also, for the heat prostrates
her greatly. I have been so well ever since I left home
that I don't think a little hardship will hurt me. The roads
may be rough, but we shall be comfortable at night, so can
rest well. William came back from Isa yesterday afternoon, pretty
nearly tired out, and said that he had not had much sleep.
He was a great object of curiosity, and men and women
would come into his bedroom at all hours of the day or night
to look at him, and, naturally, such interruptions were not
conducive to repose. One man walked off with his eye
glasses, and nothing has been heard of them since. For
tunately, the prescription is still safe, though he cannot get
another pair until Tokio is reached. He can see without
them for general purposes, however.

48 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
To-day we have been with the missionaries . all day.
There are some lovely people here, all Southerners, and not
under the American Board. All the denominations are rep
resented, except Baptists and Congregationalists. We went
around to the churches this morning, to hear the Japanese
sermons. There are at least two good church buildings,
built by the natives, which are very well filled. After service
the missionaries insisted upon our going home with them.
I went with a Mr. and Mrs. B  , while the others went else
where. I had a very pleasant visit, in a dear little home.
The house was Japanese, remodeled to suit the needs and
comforts of Europeans. This is the first place we have found
such simple homes, and apparently such earnest workers.
' In the afternoon Mrs. B  had a woman's meeting, con
ducted in Japanese, which, of course, I did not understand.
After that we attended English service in one of the rooms
of the Methodist building, in which the different denomina
tions joined. They all seemed to work together here, and
to be doing more real good, as far as we could judge in so
short a time, than in any of the other cities we have visited.
At present they are busy in distributing the gospels through
the city, and are succeeding very well, despite the opposition
of the Buddhist priests. The better classes take them more
readily than the poorer, for the former are more anxious
to advance, and are not so superstitious. Have I wearied
you with my long discourse on foreign missions?
Nakasendo Route, Monday, June 17, 1895.
We are on one of the highways of old Japan, between
Kyoto and Tokio, the two capitals of the old empire when
the shoguns, or nobles, were so powerful. We left the rail
road at Nagoya, and will not see it again until just before we
reach Yokohama. Mamma and Isabel were safely off on
their journey to Yokohama at seven o'clock, and will reach
their destination about nine this evening. The trains are
all a little late just now on account of the returning troops.

THE NAKASENDO ROAD. 49
There were some delays about our starting, but at last
we were off about nine o'clock. Such a procession! First,
the two j'inrikishas carrying the baggage and provisions ;
then Papa, myself, William and Matsuda, each with one tan
dem team. Our road led across the plain, and through a low
range of hills. We crossed several large-sized streams of
water, or rather riverbeds, for the water was nearly all gone.
The farmers irrigate their lands so much that the supply is
exhausted, besides there has been no rain in this district for
some time, and everything is very dry and dusty. All along
the road the people are threshing the grain, making ex
tremely pretty pictures; the low thatched huts clustered
along the road, with trees and shrubs about them, the
quaintly dressed people and bright golden grain adding the
needed color.
Some of the finest porcelains of the country are made
through this district, and we passed load after load going to
town. There are also a great many silkworms raised, and
the silk taken from the cocoons; the piles of white, round
little things are everywhere.
I wish you could see the tiny dogs they have here ; they
are not more than a foot in length, and are usually tied to
the door post with a big rope. There are many tailless cats
also. We stopped for rest and tea at eleven, and tiffin at half-
past one. The latter we enjoyed on the highly polished
porch of the tea-house, which was beautifully shaded by a
luxuriant wistaria vine. It was a pretty spot. We ate our
luncheon under the eyes of a large audience of children, and
Papa amused himself by making eyes and scaring them gen
erally. The ride this afternoon has been very pleasant, in and
out, up and down, though the hills were not very high.
Once we stopped at an old temple with great fir trees all
about, and a beautiful miniature garden back. These gar
dens are exceedingly pretty, with little lakes and bridges,

50 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and are usually so arranged as to appear to be buried in a
forest, even though a few feet away tjiere may be a large
city. It is a mystery how it is all brought about.
When we arrived at this little town, about four o'clock,
we took a walk for a rest to our weary, cramped limbs, before
entering the hotel. We climbed a hill, and made a visit to
one of the porcelain factories, and also one of the silk places.
I cannot call the latter factories, for they are hardly dignified
enough for that. The delicate, transparent china is made
here, all by hand. The silk culture is not new to us, how
ever, as we have often seen it at home in the expositions.
We are having our first taste of a Japanese inn, and thus
far like it very well. We have three rooms: In one is a
small, square table and four chairs. These, of course, have
been brought in for our use especially. We all have put on
our soft slippers, so as not to tear the matting on the floors
with the heels of our shoes. When bedtime comes we shall
have a pile of quilts and a huge mosquito net, the latter sus
pended from the four corners of the room, and completely
filling it. There will probably be plenty of insects, both
winged and otherwise, but we have powder with us, and hope
to ward them off.
It is just dusk, and our table is laid for dinner, which
Matsuda is preparing somewhere downstairs. We probably
shall live as well as in a hotel, for I imagine he is a good cook,
and we have a fine supply of canned goods with us. He has
promised us pancakes, think of that ! I wish you could have
seen the bathtub in which I have just taken a bath. It
looked like a very shallow washtub, and I could only sit
cross-legged in it. They are not all alike, however, for I
have seen them like the one mentioned in "A Social De
parture," with a stove at one end to heat the water.
Nakasendo Road, Tuesday Morning, June i8, 1895.
We are again settled, after a long day's ride. We all
slept well last night, without even one bite. I had a nice soft

THE NAKASENDO ROAD. 51
pile of quilts, ten in number, with one rolled at the head for
a pillow. We have, our own sheets and small soft pillows,
and have not had such good beds since we left America.
We fare royally as to edibles, have almost table d'hote
dinners. Our soup is French, and we have Spanish olives,
California pears, butter from Copenhagen, French prunes,
Canadian cheese, Chinese tea, English jam and Japanese
bread and meat. How is that? We are not partial as to
country. We have come over low hills to-day, but are getting into
the mountains now. It has been pretty, but not very excit
ing as to scenery. All along the people are gathering or
threshing their grain, or working at the silk culture ; everyone
is busy, even the children.
This is quite a large town, and seems to be a very thriv
ing one. The shops seem good, and we are surprised to see
so many European-looking things; the Japs are such imi
tative people, though, that everything is probably made
here. I am very tired and sleepy to-night, and the heavy air
makes me want to go to bed. I think we are going to have
a storm. Nakasendo Road, Wednesday, June 19, 1895.
I am writing on a little ebony table, about six inches
high, and am reclining on the soft matted floor of my room,
at the open paper window. Below me, is a paddy or rice-
field, or rather there are a dozen little ones, stretching down
the valley. The roar of the mountain torrent is in my ears,
while above it can be heard the croak of frogs, chirp of
crickets and the twittering of birds. It is raining hard, and
has been since yesterday. We did not start very early this
morning, hoping it would clear, but there seemed no pros
pect of it as time went on, so we concluded to come half a
day's journey, taking the other half to-morrow.
Oh, it is so lovely all through here! We have been

52 .45 WE WERE JOURNEYING.
ascending rapidly through the mountains, which were
heavily wooded to their very tops with the most beautiful
trees. A great many of the trees and shrubs are the same
as with us at home, but I never saw such beautiful feathery
fir trees anywhere except in a greenhouse. The maples, too,
have much smaller leaves, and look like gigantic maidenhair
ferns. Of course, there is the bamboo also, which makes
a still more graceful mass here and there. As William says:
"If it were not that we knew we were in Japan, and did not
see the people, we should think we were in Switzerland."
The houses look much the same externally, with their broad
thatched or tiled roofs, and the scenery is much like the
eastern part of Switzerland. We have not seen any snow yet,
though I believe that later we pass near it.
This morning we saw an interesting sight. As we
turned a bend in the road we saw ahead of us a long string
of at least two hundred people, each carrying a huge paper
umbrella. When we drew near to them we found that it
was a whole town, men, women and children, turned out to
meet two or three soldiers who were on their way home
from the war. Would you like to know how I looked as
we rode along this morning? I was all in black, except my
hat and umbrella, jinrikisha, rubber lap robe and oil paper
cape. My old hat with the red poppies is almost gone, and
I shall have to get a new one when I reach Yokohama. We
bought some oil paper umbrellas, so that we would not be
obliged to have the hoods of the j'inrikishas up. Mine is
white, with a black rim about it. They are such huge things
that they keep the rain off„ without shutting out the view
at all. Nakasendo, Thursday Night, June 20, 1895.
We have just finished such a hearty supper, though
William says that he is hungry yet.
This has been a glorious day, bright sunshine, and clear,
sweet air after the rain. We have had no dust, of course,

THE NAKASENDO ROAD. 53
though the roads were rough in places, and we are more and
more thankful that Mamma did not come. I have done
some walking to-day, and feel much better for it ; have been
gathering and pressing flowers for Isabel, and have got some
pretty specimens. I cannot describe the beauty of the coun
try here ; every turn in the road presents a more lovely view
than the last, so we think. We could see a little snow off
on the mountain tops to-day, but almost everywhere the
foliage extends to the summit. The rushing mountain tor
rents and cascades are so beautiful, I just love to hear the roar
as they dash along away down in the valleys.
Friday Afternoon, June 21, 1895.
Another day has passed by without much to mark it.
The weather has been bright and a little cooler, as we are
nearly at the top of the pass. To-morrow at noon we begin
to descend. To-day our road has been very lonely. William
has taken a great many photographs, and I have picked
flowers. We have all been rather quiet, a little tired, I guess.
Our jinrikisha men occupied a room near us last night, and
they kept up a racket until twelve, then a mouse began to
nibble up under the eaves. To-night we have some very fine
rooms on the second floor. The best rooms are always in
the rear of the house, and usually look out upon a pretty
garden. The ones we had last night did, but it is not so
pretty to-night. We are all tired, have been down stretching
ourselves on the soft matting, trying to make ourselves com
fortable. William has taken some pictures of us as we look
at home in our Japanese apartments.
Nakasendo' Road, Saturday, June 22, 1895.
We began by climbing to' the top of the pass, an hour's
hard pull. We did not ride, of course, and enjoyed the walk
in the clear air exceedingly. The pass is about six hundred
feet higher than the hotel where we spent last night. After
a little rest we descended very rapidly through a beautiful

54 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
valley, and soon came out upon a lovely plain, surrounded
by the snow-capped mountains; but the snow is fast disap
pearing from all the mountains, under the influence of the
hot summer sun. From there we skirted the hills to the
right, which were low and barren of trees, but dimpled with
little valleys — they looked like soft green cushions. We
climbed up and then through a low pass in these hills, and
came down — as the sun was declining behind us — into the
bowl-like valley, where we are settled for the night. It was
a beautiful view that we had as we reached the top of the
pass. The valley lying below us was surrounded by moun
tains, and in the center lay a large, clear lake. All around
were little villages, thriving-looking places, with many tall
smokestacks. There is a great deal of silk manufactured
through here, Matsuda says, and we noticed quantities of
mulberry trees as we passed along.
After we reached our tea-house, we had our usual bath,
but this time a particularly fine one, as the water was natu
rally hot from a spring near here. I wish you could see the
bathroom, at the left as we enter the hotel, made of lattice
work. It is a little house by itself right in the street. There
is a white curtain partly screening it from the public gaze,
but it might be a little more private.
Nakasendo Road, Sunday, June 23, 1895.
We have not had a very interesting day. To begin
with, we are all very tired. Papa declares he is not, but I
notice he does not walk much.
We left the high mountains behind us at our last stop
ping place, and are really off the Nakasendo road now ; left
it this morning at the place we spent the night. From there
it goes straight on over the mountains to Tokio.
We have had some very rough roads to-day, and our
backs ache from the jolting and twisting; it was really the
roughest we have found. We shall not be sorry to reach
Yokohama, though we have thoroughly enjoyed this trip;
it has been so novel.

THE NAKASENDO ROAD. 55
Nakasendo Route, Monday Afternoon, June 24, 1895.
We have finished our jinrikisha trip, and to-morrow we
take a boat to go down the rapids. It is beginning to rain,
but we hope it will stop before morning. Rain in an open
boat is anything but pleasant; worse than in ajinrikisha,
for there one is by himself, and there is no fear of the rain
from his neighbor's umbrella dripping down his back.
Our trip to-day has been a very easy one, for we reached
here by three. Our boys are glad, I know, for they seem
tired. We have just had our tea and bath, and feel greatly
refreshed. Everything about here is very dry, so I suspect
this rain is most welcome. It is needed sadly, for the rice
is just being transplanted, and young plants need a great
deal of water. The men and women were standing deep in
the mud, fixing the young plants, as we came along. They
wear a queer sort of costume here, consisting of very tight
trousers of dark blue cloth, with their kimonos tucked up
around the waist. It is difficult to tell the men and women
apart We are great objects of curiosity through this part of
the country, more than we were the first part of the way. I
do not believe many people come here. As we passed
through the towns yesterday and to-day, all the inhabitants
would flock into the streets or to the windows to- see us pass.
Just now there is a group of children outside of our windows,
and Papa is amusing himself and them. He has thrown some
small coins to them, but for some reason they will not take
the money.

CHAPTER IV.
Grand Hotel, Yokohama, Wednesday, June 26, 1895.
We are here at last — arrived late last night — and are
glad to be back in civilization once more, though we en
joyed our trip greatly.
Yesterday was a very hard day. It rained all Monday
night, and was pouring when we took the boat at six o'clock
yesterday morning. We sat on the matting on the floor
of the boat, with an awning over our heads of yellow oiled
paper. As the morning advanced the rain gradually ceased,
but it was showery all day, so the sun did not make its ap
pearance. The ride down the rapids was exciting. Through the
mountains the river dashed along, sometimes through a wide
valley with banks of gravel lining the way, and then the hills
would close about us and the green would rise sheer from
the water's edge. We had luncheon on board as best we
could, with the thumping and jarring of the boat as the
waves dashed against its limber sides and bottom. The ride
was just as exciting as the shorter one we had near Kyoto.
The railway was reached about three, then we had tea, said
good-bye to our jinrikisha men, and took the train for Yoko
hama. We met quite a number of English people on that
short journey, and for a wonder they were very pleasant.
Two of them are in the navy, and their vessel is stationed
here. They very kindly urged us to make them a call on
board their ship, and set this afternoon. We have just come
from there, and enjoyed our visit very much. We met a
56

YOKOHAMA. 57
number of the officers, and they showed us all over the
vessel, and then gave us tea.
This morning we have been in the shops. Yokohama
seems quite like a European city, after the more thor
oughly Japanese towns we have so recently visited. Mamma
and Isabel both seem so well after their rest, they appear
to have had a very good time in our absence, but, of course,
they were lonely without us. It is very good to be together
again. Mrs. S  has been a great comfort, she is so lovely
and sweet. She is going with us when we next leave Yoko
hama, for her husband will be off on a business trip and
she will be alone. We shall leave after the Fourth for Nikko.
It is very comfortable here now, quite cool enough for heavy
clothing, and we are having some rain. It is well that we
have finished our jinrikisha trip.
Yokohama, Friday, June 28, 1895.
The steamer leaves to-morrow, so I must finish this and
post it. It was raining all day yesterday, so we had a quiet
day in our rooms, doing some odds and ends that we had
been putting off for some time. Mrs. C  called in the
afternoon, and also one of the Englishmen from the Edgar.
He was not on board when we were there, but Papa left his
card in this man's stateroom. Mamma thought he was one
of the officers who had been so kind to us the day before, so
thought she would be polite, and asked him to stay to dinner.
He stayed and stayed, and did not have sense enough to go
so that we could dress for dinner. Everyone receives in his
rooms here, as there is no drawing-room. Papa at last got
him out, but he did not go home until twelve. We have
heard since that he is a regular "sticker."
To-day we have had our pictures taken in Japanese
costume, so you will soon be able to see how we look in
Japan. I cannot tell when they will be finished, however, as
these Japs have no idea of keeping their word. Papa has
been seeing about having our things sent home, too, so he

68 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
has been very busy. There are thirty cases, and he has had
to rent a storehouse, or godown (as they are called here),
to keep them in.
How we wish we could see you all at home, but summer
will soon pass and then the winter, and then we shall be
with you all once more. Yokohama, Saturday, June 29, 1895.
The others are dressing for dinner. Papa has just begun,
so I know I shall have time to write. Our letters went off
this morning, I suspect, on the Galic. There was a friend
going on her, so after breakfast I took ^jinrikisha and went
up on the bluff to get some flowers. I expected the others
to wait for me, but as it was getting late they thought they
would better go on board. I did not quite like to go alone,
so sent the flowers by a messenger, and watched the de
parture from the hotel piazza. It was perhaps just as well,
as I had a fine view. It is a beautiful sight to see a ship
start off on her long voyage. Yokohama harbor is lovely,
anyway, with all its shipping and the encircling hills.
This afternoon Isabel and I have been out in all the
shops on Benten-dori, the chief business street here. We
had lots of fun, and bought all sorts of trash; pretty things,
too. Papa thinks they don't amount to much because they
are small. Yokohama, Sunday, June 30, 1895.
I am sitting down to an afternoon of letter-writing,
and, of course, begin with you. How do you like the change
I have made in writing with a lead pencil? I think it quite
an improvement, as this silk paper was never made for a
pen. The Japanese use a fine camel's hair pencil, so it does
not cling to the paper.
This morning Mamma, Isabel and I went to church, and
heard a fine temperance lecture, one of the best I have ever
heard. As a usual thing, the minister here preaches a very
poor sermon. It is quite cool to-day, and cloudy, also.

YOKOHAMA. 59
Do you know, we have been the most fortunate of
people. The region all about Kyoto, Osaka, Nagoya and the
road we took on the mountains has been flooded with
rain. The roads are impassable and the crops ruined. Were
we not lucky to have gotten through? Our usual good luck.
We have an invitation on board the United States
steamship Baltimore for the Fourth, from Mr. K  . Per
haps you remember my mentioning his name before; we
met him in Kyoto.
Our latest plan is to go to Corea. I wonder if it will
be carried out? How would you like a letter from Vladi-
vostock? You have been having such hot weather, and it has been
so cool here. It is warm in the middle of the day, but soon
cools off, and we sleep with heavy covers at night.
Mamma has gone out to-day to look up the Woman's
Christian Temperance Union, and to see some of the mis
sionaries, with Madame Sakurai, who has been staying in
Yokohama for a few days, and who called on Mamma this
noon. Ten months from now and we shall be at home. It does
not seem long when we think of how much we shall see in
that time, but I rather dread tO' look ahead when I think of
the many miles of sea travel we shall have.
Yokohama, Wednesday, July 3, 1895.
We have been having hard rain for the last few days, and
just now are holding our breath for fear it will not clear
for to-morrow. Would it not be too bad if it did rain, and
our Fourth be a failure? We have our decorations all ready,
too, and have some neckties and belt ribbon to wear, so no
one will doubt our nationality.
I have been trying to pack to-day, and such hard work
as it has been. We leave on Friday for Tokio and Nikko, and
only take baskets with us. The trunks that we leave we
shall not see for some time, and then only long enough to
put a few things in them.

60 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Mr. S  , of the Chicago Humane Society, is here, and
we have found him such pleasant company. He has with
him a man from Philadelphia, who is buying curios for a
museum in that city.
We had asked the officers of the Edgar to dinner to
night, but I think they will come to-morrow instead, and we
want to ask Mr. K  also. There is to be a large dinner to
morrow, so I suppose the dining-room will be crowded. I
heard a whisper about dancing, but I don't think there will
be any. Mamma and I went to make some calls this afternoon,
despite the rain, one on Mrs. McW  , and the other on
Mrs. Scidmore ; the latter is the mother of the writer of that
name. She is a charming lady, and has traveled everywhere
with her daughter. Imperial Hotel, Tokio, Friday, July 5, 1895.
Such a busy day as we had yesterday ! The first thing
on opening our eyes — and really the reason for our open
ing them — was the firing of cannon from the Baltimore.
That was the signal for the children to begin with their fire
crackers, and the racket they kept up all day long — but
they did have a good time. It hardly seemed possible to us,
before we opened our window shutters, that we were not
at home, for the sounds outside were so natural. Isabel and
I dressed all in white, with our national ribbons, and felt
quite festive. Every American had some sort of a knot of
ribbon. The weather was glorious, a typical American
Fourth of July. They say it is always pleasant here, too.
We did some shopping in the morning, then arranged
our flowers for the table for the evening, and at three
o'clock took the steam launch belonging to the Baltimore
and went on board the man-of-war. We were cordially
greeted by the reception committee, and then went on to
the upper deck, where Mr. K — — soon joined us. It was a
glorious sight as we looked about us from our elevated

YOKOHAMA. 61
position — the distant shores encircling the beautiful har
bor, the many vessels of all sorts and sizes dotting the placid
waters, and, over all, the dazzling sunlight bringing into
view the many colors of foliage and fluttering flags and pen
nant. Every available place was covered with bunting, both
on shore and on board the various men-of-war, whether
American or foreign, and prominent among those who dec
orated in our honor were the English.
Day fireworks were going up constantly. These cu
rious things were thrown into the air like rockets, and, on
bursting, sometimes the smoke would form into chrysanthe
mums, yellow and violet tinted; at other times, tiny para
chutes or balloons or a cluster of flags would be set loose
to float over our heads for a while. It was a very pretty
sight. The Baltimore was prettily decorated with red, white
and blue lanterns and bamboo twigs, and we had a most
glorious time on board all the afternoon. Dancing was in
order, of course, and the clean, smooth decks made an ad
mirable ballroom. The ship's pets (a graceful fawn and
a goat), too, seemed to enjoy the fun as they wandered at will
everywhere, taking a nibble of the greenery whenever they
wished. There were cake walks, etc., among the sailors, and so
the afternoon wore on, and we had to leave all too soon.
Dinner was at seven-fifteen sharp, and the dining-room
was crowded, but everyone seemed to be having an enjoyable
time. The fireworks began quite early, and we enjoyed
watching them from our piazza. There were two bands
playing all the evening, and we did want to have some danc
ing, but the hotel management said "No," so we had to
be content. They said that the crowd was too rough, and
it would not be wise to open the dining-room. There were
a great many rough Europeans all about, many of them half
intoxicated. I could not help contrasting them with the
quiet Japanese people, who stood in crowds outside the

62 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
grounds, all as orderly as possible. As soon as the fire
works ceased, they dispersed. We did not get to bed
until after twelve.
This morning we felt pretty well tired out, but for all
that we packed and took the eleven o'clock train, and now
are enjoying a quiet rest in some very comfortable rooms.
The others have been out sightseeing, but I wished to be
excused as I must get this off to catch the steamer. We
have decided not to go any farther north — to Siberia, I
mean — but will go directly to China when we are ready to- do
so, which is not at present.
Imperial Hotel, Tokio, Sunday, July 7, 1895.
Yesterday Mamma was out all day with Madame Sa
kurai, attending meetings and looking into the work of the
Woman's Christian Temperance Union here. Isabel and
I took Matsuda and went out sightseeing by ourselves. We
went to an art school, and were interested to see what beau
tiful work was done. These Japs are so clever. It was vaca
tion time, so there was only a little on view. After that we
had a pleasant 'rikisha ride all about Ueno Park. How
lovely it must be there in cherry season! Now it is like a
large grove, with tea-houses and temples scattered here and
there, and roads winding in and out. The land lies high on a
ridge, so overlooks the city.
Papa is trying to do a little business here, the first he has
attempted. Last night, right after dinner, we got into our 'rikishas
and rode to the Yoshiwara, or "Abode of Frail Beauties," as
Murray calls it. It was a glorious moonlight night, and it
was delightful to spin swiftly along the broad, quiet
boulevards which intersect that part of the city surrounding
the palace, and then on into the narrow, crowded lanes and
streets lined with the tiny shops, brightly lighted with their
pretty Japanese lanterns, and displaying their various wares.
We must have ridden three or four miles, and then we began

TOKIO. 6»
to come out into the country. The shops almost ceased, and
the darker dwellings became more frequent. To our left
loomed high ridges on which Ueno Park lies, looking black
with its heavy foliage. Finally we crossed a bridge, and
entered the gate of a walled town. Such a change as met
our eyes ! It hardly looked like Japan. On every side rose
houses four and five stories high, with immense balconies,
all brightly lighted. The streets were crowded with people,
mostly men, but very orderly. The first floors of these
houses were all open to the streets, only screened by gratings,
giving the appearance of a cage. There sat rows of Japanese
beauties, each group dressed alike, and in the most gorgeous
colors. It was a novel and interesting sight. The girls
all seemed happy as they laughed and joked with each
other, or with some suitor who would come to the cage for
a moment's conversation. Fans fluttered and hairpins
flashed as each one tried to look her prettiest.
We roamed about for some time, up one street and down
another, until we were tired, and at last went home. I shall
never forget the ride that we had that night ; our men fairly
flew over the ground. I think we made the entire distance
in less than an hour.
To-day we have been to church, and heard a very good
sermon and some fine music. The service was high church
Episcopalian. The others want to go to see the graves of the "Forty-
seven Ronins," and I suppose I must go, too. Do you
know who those old fellows are? It is a long story, so I can
not enlighten you just now, but if you very much wish to
know their tragic history, you can read about them when
we are home in one of the books which we have purchased.
I assure you it is quite an epic. r
Tokio, Monday, July 8, 1895.
It is just twilight. Isabel is sewing the velvet facing
on her skirt. Papa is reading, William dressing and Mamma

64 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and I are ready for dinner. There is not much to write
about to-day. It was raining this morning, so we did not
go out until late, but this afternoon the weather cleared, and
we went out to some of the bazaars and invested in some
things to suit ourselves ; some were trash.
Nikko Hotel, Nikko, Tuesday, July 9, 1895.
I am writing in my little room, which I have all to my
self to-night. William is in an adjoining room, and the
others across the hall.
We had such a pleasant evening last night. Miss Tsuda,
a Japanese lady, came to dinner, and she is very charming.
She has charge of the English department of the government
school for the nobles' daughters, is a graduate of Bryn Mawr
College, and is the finest English scholar Japan has. She
says she will never marry, because she does not wish to have
a mother-in-law. The mothers-in-law in Japan have full con
trol of the household, and the poor little daughters-in-law
have to be servants. Madame Sakurai and her husband
called in the evening. He is a nice-looking man, rather un
usual looking for a Japanese, for he wears side whiskers.
This morning we were busy packing, and at eleven
o'clock took the train for this place. Mrs. S  joined us at
the station in Tokio, and Isabel is very happy. Mr. S  will
probably come on Friday. He is such a queer man, for
he does not care for sightseeing at all, and only comes here
to be with Mrs. S  .
I am rather disappointed in Nikko thus far, but then I
have seen nothing of the place. It was cloudy when we ar
rived, and no scenery looks as fine as when the sun shines
on it. We are right in the mountains, and you have seen
enough pictures of this place to judge something of how
it looks. It must be very lovely on a bright day.

NIKKO. 65
Nikko, Wednesday, July lo, 1895.
We are all tired, for we have been up to Lake Chiuzenji
and back. Oh, it was so beautiful all the way ! Beyond de
scription ! Prettier than anything we saw in the mountains
over the Nakasendo. For one thing, the valleys are nar
rower here, and fully as deep, and the streams and water
falls more picturesque. The day has been cloudy, with mists
hanging about the tops of the trees ; but for that very reason
the trip was pleasant, as it was not too warm. Four of
us went on horseback — Papa, William, Matsuda and I. Our
horses were verj' good, and I, for one, enjoyed it thoroughly.
The road was quite rough, and before we had gone far the
others in thej'inrikishas decided that we had the best of it.
Poor Mrs. S--  gave out half way up, and so I changed with
her, she putting on my divided skirt and I her walking
skirt. She sajd that it was much easier. Coming back I
had my horse again, as it was then easier in thejinrikisha.
I learned to trot and rise in my saddle to-day, much to my
satisfaction. I do not know, however, whether I could do
it again in a side saddle or not. The horses here have no
other gait, so I had to learn in self-defense.
Lake Chiuzenji is so beautiful ! It is not very large,
only about seven miles long (or three ri), and two and a half
miles broad (or one ri). The shores are very wild and
wooded, with hills all about. The lake is full of fish, and
we enjoyed the most delicious salmon for our luncheon, in
the little tea-house overlooking the water. After our rest
we took a rowboat on the lake, trying to drink in all its
beauty. It was cloudy still and the wind cold, so we did not
remain very long. There seemed to be a number of sum
mer homes, evidently owned by Europeans, on the banks, but
usually nature seemed to have had her own sweet way.
There is a beautiful waterfall near the lake; in fact,
I think it is one of the outlets, at which we stopped going up.
It is very high, and its fall is into a deep valley, an exceed
ingly wild-looking place.

66 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Papa and William left us at Chiuzenji, and went further
to another lake. I should like to have gone with them,
but we brought no baggage, and they will probably have
to remain over night. We reached Nikko pretty well tired
out, and ready for our tea.
It is very cool here, a delightful change from Tokio, and
we are feeling much better.
Nikko Hotel, Nikko, Japan, July ii, 1895.
This has been a dreary day, and I have spent most of
my time in reading a trashy novel; it has been too rainy to
go out. The curio men were here in full force, however, and
also the people with furs to sell. The latter have some
curious fur slippers, in which we have invested; they will
be nice and warm for winter.
We are about the only people here at present, though
Mr. P  and Mr. B  , passengers from the Coptic, have
been here some time. The latter is doing some very pretty
sketches. It is very lovely here and I do wish the sun would come
out and let us see it all.
Papa and William came back this morning, and said
they had had a delightful time. It makes me wish I had
gone, too. Nikko, Saturday, July 13, 1895.
To-day has been spent in the temples, and words can
not tell of their beauties. It is well that we have left them
until the last, for everything else would pale before them.
There are two temples, or groups of temples, here. They
are really tombs, though, I suspect. Such a holy, mysterious
light pervades the whole place, for the buildings are situated
under a high hill, and in the midst of a grove of enormous
cryptomeria — a kind of cedar, I think — three hundred years
old. Gold, black, red and green lacquer glows everywhere
amongst the trees. The heavy bronze roofs are green with

NIKKO. 67
age, and the stone and bronze are covered with mosses.
The interiors of the temples are very rich also ; poHshed floors
reflect the beautiful gold and silver of the altars, or the
heavily embroidered portieres leading to more holy places.
We have seen innumerable pictures of all this, but they
only give a dim idea of the richness and beauty. We are
so sorry that there is not more sunshine, but all over Japan
they are having an unusually cold, wet summer. We shall
get enough heat by and by, however, and shall be longing for
some of this coolness.
Yesterday afternoon we made an excursion to a beau
tiful waterfall, about four miles from here. Some of the
party walked, or went in j'inrikishas or kagos, but I pre
ferred my horse. The kago is a sort of seat swung on a
bamboo pole, and carried on the shoulders of two- men. The
Japs can manage to sit cross-legged in them, but Euro
peans find them rather trying for any distance.
I wish you could see the beautiful foliage here; tall,
straight cryptomeria, and feathery maples in all shades of
green. Oh, it is so lovely! Just one bower of greenery,
for there is so much moisture that everything grows very
luxuriantly. It must be lovely in the autumn, when the
maples begin to turn.
Mr. S  and another gentleman came last night, which
makes it a little more lively. The others had some games
of cards last evening. There is such a queer, crazy Ameri
can here now, who has afforded us a great deal of amuse
ment, watching to see the queer things he would do next.
He ordered fifteen candles to be lighted in his room last
night, besides the electric lights and a lamp. Then he
wanted all the maids in the house to stay with him, but the
poor little things were too frightened to do so, and no
wonder. At twelve last night he left for another hotel.
It took four j'inrikishas to take him away, though there
were only himself and a guide. He wished more, I be
lieve, but they were not to be had. The poor man is crazy.

68 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
His head has been turned by trouble, so he told Papa. The
people in the hotel were very much afraid of him, and are
glad he has gone. Nikko, Sunday, July 14, 1895.
We have been to church this morning, and heard a very
good sermon. The services were held in a Japanese house,
and one of the missionaries preached. We do miss our home
churches so much.
William left us this morning for a trip to the mountains.
He has taken ajinrikishahoy with him, who speaks a little
English, but he intends to live entirely in the Japanese
fashion. I hope he will not make himself ill.
Yesterday we had such a pleasant trip on horseback.
We three girls and Matsuda rode, Mamma went in a chair,
and Papa and Mr. S  walked. The road was very rough
and rocky in places, but we had several good canters for
all that. Such a glorious view as we had to repay us for
our climb ! Japan lay spread at our feet, like a raised map —
mountains, rivers and valleys, and over all a blue haze,
making a charming effect. The higher mountains were en
circled by fleecy clouds, and near at hand the peaks rose high
above our heads, entirely lost to view in mists. There was
no sun, however, which would have made everything even
more beautiful. It was not the whole of Japan, of course,
but the portion lying between here and Tokio. In another
direction we could see a lovely waterfall, back of which were
the green hills from which it came. Oh, Nikko is so lovely!
Later: We have just come from a ride down the long
avenue of cryptomeria trees, which one sees so much in pic
tures. It was a very pleasant route, but rather monotonous.
At the end we stopped at a lovely tea-house, and rested in
the garden for a while. Coming home we had quite an ex
citement, which might have ended more seriously than it
did. We were jogging quietly along, when suddenly Mr.
S  's horse went down on its knees without a moment's
warning. Mr. S  quietly slid over its head, and rolled onto

TOKIO. 69
the ground. He was not at all hurt, except his feelings of
vanity, for it was a ludicrous sight. We all had to laugh,
when once our fears were quieted.
We had a call this afternoon from the minister whom
we heard preach this morning. He thought we were Uncle
Ralph and his family, and he wished to see them, as they
lived in the same house at Nikko when here several years
ago. Imperial Hotel, Tokio, Japan, Monday, July 15, 1895.
We left Nikko this morning at half-past seven o'clock,
arriving in Tokio about one. Mr. and Mrs. S  have gone
on to Yokohama, where we will join them in a few days. Papa
was obliged to come here to see about some business, and
then, too, Madame Sakurai is to give a Japanese luncheon
for us. A Mr. William E. Curtis and his son, whom we met in
Nikko, are here. Mr. Curtis writes for the Chicago Record,
and sends a letter every day. We enjoyed being with them
very much, for the father is such good company. We may
see a great deal of them, for they are going to China about
the same time that we go. Tokio, Wednesday, July 17, 1895.
This is a dreary day, for, as usual, it is raining hard.
Yesterday we went to a most interesting place. It was a
very old temple, where the grounds had been turned into a
sort of Coney Island, all sorts of sideshows and shops. The
place was thronged with people, dressed in holiday attire —
it was a very pretty sight. When we left our jinrikisha we
walked down a street lined with shops — or rather booths —
filled with gay hairpins, toys and sweetmeats ; then we passed
through a heavy red lacquered gateway with its hideous gate
god, and then on into the temple itself. We did not have
to remove .our shoes here, as there was no matting on the
floor. There was but little of interest in the temple, except

70 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
an old wooden figure in one corner, that was supposed to
have great healing powers. A long line of people was pass
ing this figure, and as they reached it, they would rub the
part they wished healed on the figure, then on their own
bodies. The poor old thing was so worn out by all this rub
bing, especially about the head, that there was hardly any
shape left.
From the temple we passed again into the grounds, and
visited some of the shows. We saw some ghastly figures
done in wax, representing the Corean war. They were fine,
much better than Madame Tussaud's in London. There
were two or three of such exhibitions, which we visited and
enjoyed very much. Then there was a panorama represent
ing Port Arthur and one of the Battle of Vicksburg. We
did not go into the latter. There were innumerable other
shows also, besides booths of all sorts, and cages of ani
mals. After we had finished there we went to call on Madame
Sakurai, in her little Japanese house. We met her daughter,
a very pretty girl of about seventeen, who served us with
tea, sponge cake and some large, rosy-cheeked apples. We
went all over the house, which was, of course, very small,
like all Japanese houses. There were about five or six
rooms altogether, I think. There is another small house,
also, in which her students sleep. It is vacation time now,
so we did not see any of the girls.
To-day, in spite of the rain, Isabel and I have been to
Yokohama. She wanted to see Mrs. S  , but was disap
pointed, for they have not yet returned from Myanoshita,
one of the mountain resorts. It seemed so good to be back
in Yokohama again, in the bustle of the seaport town, after
the quietness here. We had tiffin and came home soon after.
We shall all return there to-morrow.

YOKOHAMA. 71
Grand Hotel, Yokohama, Friday, July 19, 1895.
This letter goes off to-morrow on the China. Mr. and
Mrs. S  go on her, also. They will stop in Chicagoi on
their way to New York, and will go to see you if possible.
Yesterday was such a busy day. At eleven o'clock
Madame Sakurai called, and took us to the home of one of
her former pupils, who had planned a Japanese luncheon in
our honor. We met some very pleasant Japanese ladies and
gentlemen. It was a beautiful house, and very comfortably
furnished with some European furniture. The dining-room
was large, and opened on two sides onto a lovely garden,
where there were a great many large trees. The Japan
ese all sat on the soft matted floor, on thin little silk mats or
cushions. There were twelve in all, six on each side of
the room. Mamma and I faced each other at the end of
the rows, seated in wicker chairs and served from a little
table. Our edibles consisted of two kinds of soup, two
kinds of fish, eggs, arrowroot, rice, some little cakes, and
some delicious big apples; the latter were for our special
benefit. Everything tasted very good, and better seasoned
than I expected. Some of the dishes I did not like, but
the fish was delicious. The rice is always good, but the
$oups are not to our taste.
Mamma gave a little talk, and the president of the Wo- •
men's Christian Temperance Union spoke. All who were
present were not W. C. T. U. people, but I think they
were all Christians. We enjoyed our visit very much in
deed. Night before last there was a slight earthquake, which
frightened us somewhat. We were all in bed, but the
swaying motion was quite noticeable; it was the first we
had felt, and I was ill for the rest of the night.
We had a postal card from William yesterday. He
seems to be enjoying his trip very much.
Isabel and I have been invited to take tea with Mrs.
McW  , and to go for a sea bath afterwards. I think it

72 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
will be great fun. To-night we take dinner with Mr. and
Mrs. S  at their table.
This morning we were busy arranging our flowers for
the people going on to-morrow's steamer. There is a very
good florist here ; or, rather, a garden, as the flowers all grow
out of doors, there being so little frost.
Yokohama, Sunday, July 21, 1895.
Isabel and I have just come from breakfast, and are
in our little tumbled-up room. It is almost impossible for
us to keep our belongings in order, for there are not enough
hooks to hang the things on, to begin with.
Yesterday was such a sad day. Our dear friends, the
S  s, left on the China at eleven. We, of course, went on
board, and stayed until almost time for the steamer to leave.
She is a beautiful boat, so much nicer in every way than the
Coptic. There were other friends, Mr. and Mrs. K  ,
going also, so it was a very sad time generally.
The afternoon seemed dreary enough, as it was misty
and horrid out of doors. Mrs. C  called and we had a
pleasant talk about the places we are intending to visit.
When we went down to dinner we found a most lovely night-
blooming cereus in the reception-room. It was opening
'beautifully, so that we spent a good part of the evening in
watching it.
The Coptic arrived last night, two days ahead of time.
I hope we shall have some mail to-morrow morning.
This is a very hot day, and I almost dread starting out
for church. Mrs. C  will call for us, and then come home
with us for tiffin. The harbor looks so lovely to-day as we
see it from our window. It is filled with shipping and
little sail and row boats. The other side of the bay is not
visible, so we might be looking right out to sea, from ap
pearances, except that the water is too calm.
We had a nice package of mail this morning, and every
one feels happy.

MYANOSHITA. 73
I do not believe I told you that William came home a
day or two ago. Poor fellow, he is pretty well worn out.
He has had to eat Japanese food, and that is not always
good, especially to Europeans. I think he will stay with
us hereafter. Mrs. C  spent most of the day with us yesterday. She
dislikes to see us leave Japan, I know, for we seem like
a bit) of home to her. We shall soon be moving on now, and
there will not be much rest for us until we reach home,
except on the steamers. Our day of leisure is over for the
present, and it makes my head whirl when I think of the
number of places we shall see within the next few months.
Fuji-ya Hotel, Myanoshita, Japan, July 23, 1895.
It is night, and we have all come up to bed. The hotel
is full of Russians and English people. There are only
three or four Americans. Mr. Curtis and his son are here,
and some young men from the Baltimore.
This has been a glorious day. Yesterday it rained in
torrents, and how we pitied the poor people on the sea.
Everything is beautifully fresh this morning, but the crops
look drowned.. However, it may not make any difference
to the rice if it is four feet under the water.
We left Yokohama at ten this morning, and had about
an hour's pleasant ride by rail. I must not forget to speak
of the beautiful white Easter lilies, which are now in blos
som, wild, everywhere. The air is heavy with their fra
grance. After we left the train we took a primitive horsecar,
which accommodated our baggage also. As we jogged
along our luncheon was eaten to the accompaniment of the
musical bells on the horses' collars. After about an hour
of that sort of travel, we changed to jinrikishas. The road
was very rough, having been washed out by the rains, but
the scenery was so fine that we forgot we were uncomfort
able. We wound in and out, always ascending, until now we
are right in the heart of the mountains, and, I suppose, are

74 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
on one of the slopes of Fujisan. The hotel is at the head
of the valley, down which the view is lovely. On the left the
hills are soft and green, but without a bit of foliage, while
those on the right are heavily wooded. The din of water
falls fills the air with music, drowning out every other sound.
There are hot springs here, which I think we are going to
enjoy very much. I have just come from a bath, and it was
delicious. Myanoshita, Wednesday, July 24, 1895.
I have been indoors most of the day, as the weather has
been unpleasant. The clouds enveloped us partly, so that
the sun could not shine. The effects were lovely, however,
as the clouds rose and sunk, or went rolling down the val
ley, giving us glimpses of the views beyond.
Later this afternoon, after we had had our tea, we went
for a walk up the valley. It was so- beautiful ! We crossed
over a bridge with a dashing torrent away down beneath
us, almost lost to view amongst overhanging trees and vines.
Then there was a waterfall at the side of the road, and last,
but not least, we came to a beautiful garden. There we re
freshed ourselves with Japanese tea and cakes, and fed the
goldfish in the pond. The flowers are lovely here, tall white
lilies and clumps of blue hydrangeas.
The others are getting ready for a game of whist, and I
suppose I will have to join them.
Myanoshita, Thursday Night, July 25, 1895.
It has rained again to-day, and the wind has been blow
ing with such terrific force that it has been unsafe to ven
ture along any of the mountain roads, for fear of being
blown off. We have spent the day in a Httle sitting-room,
which is over the front entrance, and off the piazza. It is
enclosed in glass, and affords a glorious view down the val
ley. Once in a while we can see the ocean dimly in the
distance, if we watch closely enough.

MYANOSHITA. 75
Saturday Morning, July 27, 1895.
Yesterday we had such a pleasant excursion to Hakone
Lake, a distance of about seven miles from here. Papa and
Isabel had horses, but Mamma, William and I rode in state
in wicker chairs, borne on the shoulders of four men. I
think we had about as much exercise as those on horse
back, for there was a constant spring to the poles on which
the chairs rested. The road was a narrow one, leading first
through heavy underbrush, and then through long, wild
grass. It was very pleasant and the air fresh and exhilarat
ing, though the scenery was not at all grand. We wound
over the moorlike-looking hills, passing groups of houses
and health resorts, until we came out upon Lake Hakone.
It is a placid looking sheet of water, surrounded by soft, roll
ing hills, with the higher mountains rising back of them.
Fujiama is seen plainly from here, when it is not enveloped
in mists. It is almost free of its snowy cap now, and is
not so beautiful as before.
We had luncheon and a nice rest in a tea-house over
looking the lake. Myanoshita, Sunday, July 28, 1895.
We are on the move once more, as we leave at noon
for Yokohama. It is hard to stay in one place while there
is so much to do ahead. We expected to remain here two
weeks at least when we came. Papa and William went to
Yokohama yesterday to see about our steamer, and we shall
probably take the next good one to Kobe and Nagasaki.
Grand Hotel, Yokohama, Japan, Monday, July 29, 1895.
Back again at the Grand Hotel; but we are off once
more; for good this time, at noon to-day. We are not los
ing much time, you see.
We had a rather tiresome journey down from Myano
shita yesterday, and were glad to see the Grand Hotel again.
The boat from Vancouver is in — the Empress of China — and

76 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
we shall go on it to Nagasaki, and perhaps to Shanghai.
This boat is a very nice one, so we shall be comfortable. We
all dislike to leave Yokohama, for it is so homelike here, but
we cannot settle down, so must move on to new scenes.
R. M. S. Empress of China,
Harbor of Kobe, Japan, July 30, 1895.
I have just finished dinner, and am now up in the library.
We left Yokohama yesterday noon and had a pleasant, quiet
trip to this place. There was quite a fog, but as land was
not in sight it did not matter. This morning we awoke
to bright sunshine and a lovely coast line in view.
We like our steamer very well. The cabins are large
and airy, the decks splendidly long and well protected, and
the table fairly good. There are a great many people on
board, some English and several missionaries; some of the
latter get off here.
We went on shore this afternoon, but there is little to
see. There is a beautiful waterfall, which we visited, and
the town is very prettily situated. We can see it plainly
from the steamship as it stretches along the shore and up into
the wooded hills in the background. There are some fine
European residences here, probably mission houses.
To-night we weigh anchor and steam down the Inland
Sea. It has been very warm all day, but now that the sun
is setting there is a cool breeze coming up. It has been
raining heavily, too. The storms come up very quickly here.
Inland Sea, Japan, Wednesday Night, July 31, 1895.
All day we have been passing along the most beautiful
coast line. This sea is somewhat like the River St. Law
rence. It is wide in places, so that the shores are almost lost
to view, and then narrowing to a moderate-sized stream.
Sometimes the hills are quite sandy, and then again beau
tifully fertile, with little towns nestling amongst the foliage.
The sea has been very calm, at times without a ripple, and

NAGASAKI. 77
the sailboats, which covered the water in places, could not
move at all. If it had not been that we were going at such
a rapid rate of speed we should have suffered greatly from
the heat. Everyone appeared in white to-day, the gentle
men included, and it made the ship look extremely pretty.
We are getting out of the Inland Sea now, and into
the China Sea. I wish you could see the beautiful coloring
on the coast and water. It is a deep orange, and the heavy
clouds that lie along the horizon give a weird appearance
to the whole scene. It looks as though we might have
some wind. The China Sea has its terrors for me, for the
storms are so terrific here. We shall drop anchor early to
morrow morning in Nagasaki harbor.
Nagasaki Harbor, August i, 1895.
We did not have the least bit of a storm last night, much
to my joy, and awoke to a beautiful, sunshiny day this
morning. Mamma has gone ashore with one of the missionaries
for breakfast, and the rest of us will join her later in one of
the shops. I am hurrying this off, hoping it will catch an
earlier boat than if I waited until we reach Shanghai. We
leave this afternoon before sundown, and arrive in Shanghai
early Saturday morning. Thursday, August i, 1895.
After I wrote to you this morning we went ashore to see
what we could in the few hours allowed us. We went into
a number of curio shops and walked about the city some
what, but soon found that the heat was too intense for com
fort or safety, so returned to the steamer.
Nagasaki harbor looked very pretty indeed, almost land
locked and surrounded. by wooded hills, rising one behind the
other. The water was covered with small craft and a few
larger vessels. We have two men-of-war here. All day
long our steamer was taking on coal. The barges were

78 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
lying alongside, and the men, women and children handing
up the basket loads of fine, soft coal to one and then another,
until it finally reached the place where it was to be stowed.
The people seemed to really enjoy their work.
I have been deep in Wilkie Collins' "Moonstone" all
day. It is as good as "Sherlock Holmes."
Once more we are on our way. The boat left at five,
and now we are on the China Sea.
We have some very pleasant people on board. Lieu
tenant R  , wife and little son, who were at the "Grand"
with us. There are several English people, and the officers
are particularly pleasant ; so, take it all in all, we are enjoying
the trip very much. The weather has been fine, too, which
always makes things look brighter. To-night there is a
glorious moon, sending a silvery track across the waters.
The deck is such a picturesque place just now, with some of
the passengers slowly pacing up and down, from one end
to the other, and others reclining in the chairs, or reading
by the electric lights, and all enjoying the cool breezes after
the heat of the day.

COALING THE "EMPRESS OF CHINA" AT NAGASAKI.

CHAPTER V.
Astor House, Shanghai, China, Saturday August 3, 1895.
We are almost half way around the world, and just this
minute nearly melted alive.
We had quite a rough day yesterday, and most of the
passengers felt uncomfortable, if not really seasick. It was
lovely otherwise, with bright sunshine and a cool breeze. I
was busy with my book most of the day, but finished it
about sunset. Then we just caught a glimpse of the Chinese
coast line, and all was excitement. Our first sight of the
vast empire consisted of scattered, rocky islands, with a dim
outline of the sandy coast off in the distance. We dropped
anchor at eleven, and then we began to feel the heat, which
was very oppressive. We all dreaded the heat of the night,
and it was as bad as we anticipated, and no one slept much.
We are up bright and early this morning, and left the boat
about half-past eight; a small steamer took us ashore. It
was a pleasant ride of nearly an hour, up the Woosung
River, on which Shanghai is situated. I always supposed
that this city was at the mouth of the Yang-tse River, but
we found that it was not the case. All sorts of queer craft
were passed en route — sailing vessels, river steamers, just
like the steamers we have on the Ohio and Mississippi, and
Chinese junks, with their picturesque sails. The junks here
are much prettier than in Japan, even though they are not as
clean. At last we turned a bend in the stream, and the Eu
ropean city of Shanghai burst on our astonished eyes. It
is one of the prettiest cities I have ever seen, as one first sees
it from the river. It is perfectly flat, but all along the water
79

80 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
front stretches a lovely park, and back of that a broad avenue
lined with handsome public buildings and fine residences.
The thermometer registered one hundred and three de
grees when we landed on the Bund, so you can imagine that
we only allowed ourselves a passing ghmpse of our present
surroundings. We climbed into our jinrikishas and hurried
to the hotel as fast as possible. We found very comfortable
rooms, cool and large and shaded by broad piazzas. Off
from each is a bath, which hitherto has been an unattainable
luxury, but which we fully appreciate in all this heat. Per
haps you think that we have "jumped from the frying pan
into the fire" by leaving the cooler breezes of Japan for this
heat, but, do you know, we all feel better already. The cold,
damp weather in the islands would soon have made us all ill.
The air here is not perfectly dry, either, but it is an im
provement. Shanghai, Sunday, August 4, 1895.
We have been busy all day amongst our trunks, for
everything is very musty after the dampness in Japan, It
seems delightfully dry here in comparison.
Yesterday afternoon, after tea, we ventured out to see
something of the city. The air was so balmy and soft and
getting cooler, so we tookjinrikishas and told the men that
we wanted to go for a nice ride. The 'rikishas here are much
inferior to those we have had. We went along what is
called the Bund, or the drive along the river front, in these
Eastern cities. The street life is very different from any
thing we have seen. After once seeing the Japs and Chinamen
on their own native soil, there is no danger of ever mistaking
one for the other. The lower classes here are so much
lower than in Japan, but I think I like the upper classes bet
ter; they" are much more serious, more grown up, so to
speak, and are a nice-looking set of people. The coolies,
however, make me think of rats, and I should not like
to be alone with them long.

SHANGHAI. 81
Such queer-looking conveyances as one sees here; a
curious medley of European and Chinese civilization. There
are victorias, with footmen and coachmen (Chinamen, of
course) dressed beautifully in their liveries; jinrikishas (usu
ally poor-looking specimens) and wheelbarrows. The latter
are patronized by the Chinese exclusively. They are queer
looking enough, and are built somewhat like ours at home,
with the handles behind, but instead of a body like ours,
there are narrow seats on either side, with a low back be
tween. It cannot be an easy vehicle to manage, as it is
pushed by a coolie, whO' has the handles supported by a
strap which passes over his shoulders. I do not know, how
ever, that you can judge much of this queer affair from my
description. On our way yesterday we stopped in some of the silver
shops and saw some of the daintiest silver articles I have
ever seen. The silks and brocades, too, are very hand
some. I have not been out to-day, but we are very comfortable
on our piazzas, shaded as they are by reed curtains, and a fine
breeze is blowing.
There are awful reports circulating from a city just south
<>f here, near Foochow, of the massacre of nine English and
American missionaries. The full report is not yet out, but
everyone is greatly agitated.
Shanghai, Tuesday Morning, August 6, 1895.
It is a wonder that we are alive, after all this heat. We
are in a constant perspiration, but still we do not seem to lose
any strength. We go out a little time in the morning, then
return to our rooms and do not stir outside the house until
half-past five. We sit on our piazzas the rest of the time,
with as little on as possible, with our work and books, and
drink iced tea or hot tea, and so we are comfortable. Sun
day afternoon we took a drive on the fashionable street of the
city, and enjoyed seeing the native life in that way. The

82 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
men were the more numerous, of course, but we saw some
women in carriages or as nursemaids to the European chil
dren. Yesterday was spent in planning some thin gowns,
which we very much need. We found that the Chinese are
extremely good dressmakers, and their charges so small that
it is ridiculous.
There was a large meeting of Europeans in the hotel
to-day to talk over the massacre. Everyone is greatly ex
cited, of course, but it is hard to tell what will be the result
of all this talk. These missionaries were not in a treaty port,
and so were out of the reach of the gunboats and European
protection. Such murders are constantly occurring in the
interior, and little is done to stop them.
In the audience yesterday there were a number of men
who looked like Chinese, with long pigtails, but very fair.
We could not imagine who they were, but finally someone
told us that they were European missionaries who had
adopted the native dress, even to shaving their heads. They
looked decidedly queer. There were some women also
among them.
Last evening, as usual, was spent in the park on the river
front, where there was a delightful, cool breeze. It was
lovely, for the moon was at its full, and everything was
flooded with the soft light.
Shanghai, Wednesday August 7, 1895.
Every day is like every other one, just now. Mr. Curtis
and his son arrived this afternoon, and we were very glad to
see them. We may be able to go together to Peking, after
all. This afternoon we had a windstorm, followed by a
sprinkle of rain. It has not cooled the air much, however,
and the locusts have gone back to their incessant chirping.
I wonder if you are having these pests in America this year.

SHANGHAI. 83
Friday, August 9, 1895.
The mail closes to-morrow, or possibly to-day, so I
will send this now. Shanghai is the most uncertain place
about mails, either leaving or coming, for it all depends on
the arrival of the steamers, and they can easily be a day or
two late. The heat still continues, though owing to two storms of
wind and rain the air is a little cooler. The thermometer
registers eighty»eight degrees this morning.
Yesterday morning we spent in the silk shops, helping
Mr. Curtis select some brocades for his wife and daughters.
About five two gentlemen called, Mr. P  , whom we
met on the Empress of China, and his friend, Mr. H  .
Mr. P  is one of the best missionaries here ; his home is up
the Yang-tse River several hundred miles.
In the evening we went with the Curtises to the park,
and enjoyed the music of a band, which plays occasionally.
We might almost have imagined that we were in one of our
own parks in Chicago, for English was spoken on every
side. The general appearance of the place was much like
home, and the children playing tag, all dressed in white,
looked very natural.
We thought some of going to Chee-foo to-morrow, but
have decided not to do so, as it is crowded there now, and
it would be doubtful if we could get good rooms. Chee-foo
is the watering-place of China. Mr. Curtis is going, and also
the R  s ; we shall miss them very much.
We are looking for our mail to come from Yokohama
soon. Papa seems rather doubtful, however, for he fears that
he ordered it sent to Hongkong. Just imagine if we have
to wait until the last of September !
Astor House, Shanghai, China,
Saturday, August 10, 1895.
This has been a very idle day. Yesterday I sent off
four letters, and felt that I had accomplished a little.

84 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Last evening Mamma, Isabel and I took a long drive
along the river, to what is called the Point. It was not a
particularly beautiful drive, but it cooled us off a little, though
our poor beasts were very warm. At the Rest House at
the Point there was a handsome cockatoo, which amused us
for a time. All along the road at intervals as we came and
went were coffins waiting to be carried away. Inside were
probably bodies of persons who had died of cholera; there
are hundreds of deaths herfe every day. We are very careful
what we eat and drink, so you need have no fears about us.
We cannot have cholera, you know, unless the germ is taken
into the mouth with food or drink.
The weather is much cooler, for which we are thank
ful. We are going out to dinner to-night; it will be quite
a treat to us to get out of the hotel for a while,
I have been reading a novel all day, one Isabel bought
this morning. All books and papers brought from America
or Europe are very high, at least double their original value.
There is quite a difference even between Yokohama and
here. Sunday Afternoon, August ii, 1895.
I have just awakened from a sound sleep and have hardly
got my eyes open yet. Mamma and Isabel have gone out to
Sunday-school somewhere. I went with Mamma to the
Cathedral this morning, so don't feel quite a heathen yet. A
memorial service was held for the missionaries. There were
eleven killed, counting a tiny babe, which has just died of
its wounds. What a dreadful thing it was !
We had a very pleasant time at the dinner last night.
Our host and hostess were English. I thought they were
Americans, and was decidedly surprised. However, in some
respects it was all the more pleasant, as it was more of a
novelty to us. There were only three guests besides our
selves, but the dinner was very nice, and the people interest
ing.

SHANGHAI. 85
Monday, August 12, 1895.
It is almost time for dinner, and we are waiting for Papa
and William, who have gone to call on Mr. P  . I have
been busy all day, doing a little dressmaking. Have been
making over an old waist, and feel quite proud of my work.
We are going to a "Society Circus," which is in progress
here just now. We hear it is as good as though the perform
ers were all professionals, and, of course, it will be twice as
interesting. There is such a handsome man here, whom we
met last night, a Mr. H  . I think he looks as though he
were English, but he has no accent. He was formerly a
(correspondent of the London News, but for some reason
he has lost his position. He is very tall and dark, with a
fine figure, but they say he is terribly dlase'.
We hoped to hear from home to-day, but the steamer is
Relayed, and we are trying to be patient.
Tuesday Night, August 13, 1895.
Another day has gone by and we have hardly stirred
out of doors. We are having such lovely weather now, too.
There have been terrible storms at sea, however, and we
have been anxious about some friends who left for Chee-foo
a few days ago. They were caught in a typhoon, so we
heard, but reached their destination in safety. There is
rfirely an accident, I think, as these storms are expected at
this season. We had a delightful time at the "Circus" last night.
The performers were all men, though some of them took the
part of girls, and they looked most coy and fascinating in
their golden tresses. The ring was fairly good-sized, and the
whole performance was exceedingly good, especially some of
the tricks of the horses. We got out about twelve, and raced
home in our jinrikishas at a breakneck speed. I was afraid
several times that we should have a collision.

86 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Shanghai, Wednesday Night, August 14, 1895.
We have just come from the park, where there has been
a very good band playing. The dampness and cool wind
drove us in at last, much to our regret. The others are be
low, on the hotel piazza, enjoying some ginger ale.
I have been reading most of the day, and have written
several letters. Isabel and Papa went to do some shopping
for Mamma's birthday — the twenty-first may see us at some
point where there are no shops.
We have been talking with some Southern men this
evening. One of them is our vice-consul here, and is a
pleasant gentleman. The other is a sort of quack doctor,
and does not amount to much. What queer people one
does meet ! The house is full of men, but not of a very good
class, however ; there are a few ladies.
Thursday, August 15, 1895.
We have been glorying in our mail this day, and have
thought of nothing else. Some of our new gowns came
back to-day, too, and they are very satisfactory indeed.
I wish you could see our room now ; it is a perfect sight,
I assure you, with clothes scattered in every direction. We
pack to-morrow for our trip up the Yang-tse to-morrow
night. We are glad to be moving once more, for it has been so
quiet here. We are well rested now, and ready for any
thing that may present itself.
Shanghai, Friday Afternoon, August 16, 1895.
Everything is packed, and we are ready to start. The
boat leaves late this evening, and we shall go aboard soon
after dinner and get settled.
I have been reading "The Ralstons" to-day, and have
enjoyed the book very much. Good-bye; my next letter
will probably not be posted for two or three weeks.

ON THE YANG-TSE-KIANG. 87
Steamer Poyang, Yang-tse River,
Monday, August 19, 1895.
You see, we are well up the river by this tiine, for we
left Shanghai Saturday very early in the morning. The
scenery has not been particularly exciting — low banks cov
ered with rich and dense foliage, straw-thatched huts, just
visible among the trees. Sometimes there are low hills,
one of which may have a pagoda on the summit.
I have not been well for the last few days, but now am
feeling much better. We fortunately had an American med
ical missionary on board, and he has helped me much on the
toad to recovery. Dr. H  is one of the members of the
mission which was mobbed and burned, away off in one of
the remote Western provinces of China; Cheng-tu is the
name of the town. It was a fearful thing, I know, from the
descriptions we hear. The missionaries are trying to get
money to rebuild at the same place.
There were eleven passengers, all told, when we started,
but all have left us now except Dr. H  and a German.
Both are very pleasant, but we, of course, prefer the former,
as he is an American. I am well cared for, I assure you, for I
am not allowed to step my foot on the floor, but am carried
everywhere I wish to go.
It is much cooler since we have left the coast. To-day
early it was almost cold. The rain, which began at noon,
has ceased, and everything looks so fresh and nice.
Hangkow, China, Wednesday, August 21, 1895.
We have been here since yesterday morning, about six
o'clock, but I have not been able to write, first, because we
were busy visiting, and, second, I could not get my paper
easily, not being able to help myself. I am so much better
to-day, however, that I can walk everywhere, and my diet
even has been less rigid.
But you are wondering how we are situated here, I
know. I will begin where I left off on Monday. I was

88 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
carried out on deck as soon as the rain cleared away, and
stayed until nightfall. The scenery was very lovely indeed —
low, sharply-cut mountains on both banks, beautiful with
their blue shadows. Sometimes they rose directly from the
water's edge, and then would run back for a quarter or half
a mile, leaving the green farming land in the foreground.
The river rushed by us very swiftly, but very deep, looking
like cafe-au-lait, for it is a muddy stream. Once in a while
a junk would pass with its chocolate-colored sails, blending
beautifully with the surrounding tints. The sunset was a
very gorgeous one, spreading rose tints over everything.
Thus we sped along, winding in and around the bays and
sharp curves of the noble Yang-tse.
When we awoke early on Tuesday morning we found
that the cool breezes had all disappeared, and that we were
moored to the houseboat, which is the wharf at Hangkow.
Before I was out Mr, P  came aboard to welcome us, and
to say that he had made arrangements for us to stay at the
house of a friend ; it would be much more comfortable than
to go to the hotel, which was very poor. We were unde
cided whether to wait over a few days or take the boat then
ready to go up to Ichang, but Mr. P  seemed so anxious
for us to stay, and I was so weak and miserable, that we
decided to wait until the next boat, at least. So Mr. S  ,
our host, took us to his lovely home on the Bund, and we
have been having a pleasant time ever since. Mrs. S 
is away with the baby; but in China a house hardly needs
a mistress, for the Chinamen do everything correctly without
being told — they are almost model servants. I had a doctor
come to see me yesterday, and his prescription, together
with all the treatment I have had in the way of "slops" —
as Mr. S  calls them — have done wonders. Mr. P 
stayed with us most of the day yesterday, and left early
this morning for his home across the river. We can see
the town of Wuchang, where the mission is located, very
plainly from our position on the piazza. There are no for-

SHANGHAI. 89
eigners there, except the missionaries, but there is a large
European settlement here.
Mr. S  is a merchant, and quite a wealthy one, I
should judge. He is an Englishman, and has no use for
missionaries, except two or three. He and Mr. P  are
firm friends, however. Mr. P  is a very broad-minded,
intellectual man, without one particle of cant about him.
We spend most of our time on the broad piazzas,
screened from the sun by double curtains of bamboo. Off
from this open long French windows, leading to the drawing
and dining rooms. There is a small greenery at one end of
the piazza, with some beautiful specimens of feathery ferns
growing on slabs of porous rocks, which stand in tanks and
tubs of water. These rooms are all on the second floor of
the building; below are the offices of the company. That
is the way the houses are often arranged here.
Late yesterday afternoon the others went for a walk on
the Bund, and reported on their return that Hangkow was
a very pretty city — at least, the European portion. I hope
to go out myself late this afternoon. Papa and William
went to visit a brick-tea factory this morning; Papa has
some machinery there. The rest of us remained on the
piazza in our wicker chairs and kept as cool as we could.
Hangkow, Thursday, August 22, 1895.
We have just been having our photographs taken as
a group down on the steps leading into the garden, and
I imagine the picture will be very good.
This morning we boarded a steam launch and rode up
stream a short distance to the Han River, which empties
into the Yang-tse. Up the Han we steamed against the
strong current for nearly a mile, passing thousands of junks
moored — I do not know how many deep — along both
banks. There are three cities just here — Hangkow, the
second largest city in the empire, Hanyang and Wuchang.
On the opposite side of the Han from Hangkow is Hanyang,

90 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and that is where we stopped first. There are large iron
works there, owned by the government, to which Papa and
William wished to go. After they had seen all they wanted
to see, we again descended the Han and crossed the Yang-tse
River to Wuchang, where Mr. P  lives. On landing, we
took sedan-chairs and were carried at least two miles through
the Chinese city to the mission settlement. We did not
go through the narrowest streets, which are principally used
for business purposes, but traversed the residence portion.
No attention is given to the pavement or cleanliness of these
streets, and the only idea I can give of their appearance is
a narrow alley lined On either side with mud walls, with
here and there a gateway leading to the court of the house.
We could see nothing of the houses except the tops of the
roofs. At intervals would be a shop or restaurant, and there
were plenty of inhabitants in every nook and corner, looking
to see us go by; I imagine they see few foreigners. Every
one was quiet and inoffensive, however. There were hun
dreds of children running around, with little or nothing on
them, and the poor little Chinese women hobbling about
on their tiny feet, called "Golden LiHes."
The mission settlement we found a very lovely spot,
inclosed by high walls just inside the higher walls of the
city. In the center of the enclosure is a lovely lawn, shaded
by spreading trees, with beds of flowers interspersed.
Around are grouped the houses where the missionaries live.
The pretty chapel is at one end; a beautiful library, built
round like a miniature Chinese pagoda, is at one side, and
the school buildings and hospitals are a little distance away.
Seated on the lawn under the trees one would never dream
he was six hundred miles from the coast and in the center
of the Chinese empire. It was so quiet and peaceful, more
like some retired spot in our own New England.
We had a hearty welcome from Mr. P  , who guided
us all through the missions, and then returned with us for
/iffin. None of the other missionaries were there, they not

SHANGHAI. 91
having returned from their vacation. To-night we take the
boat back to Shanghai. We intended going four hundred
miles further up the Yang-tse, but the boats are running so
irregularly that we fear to undertake it.
Steamer Poyang, Yang-tse River,
Saturday, August 22, 1895.
Our trip downstream is a very quiet one. We are the
only passengers, so we can imagine that we are indulging
in a private yacht. We are busy reading all sorts of exciting
stories in some English papers which we found in the cabin.
The scenery is very monotonous, and the glare from the
river is so great that we do not stay on deck much of the
time. We made one long stop of two or three hours yes
terday at Kukiang, and each of us improved the opportunity
to go ashore and explore the narrow streets and visit some
of the silver shops. Kukiang silver trinkets are noted as
being some of the best in China.
We hope to get to Shanghai to-morrow. It will depend
upon the tide somewhat. Astor House, Shanghai, China,
Sunday, August 25, 1895.
Once more we are on the coast and in our own com
fortable rooms in Shanghai. We arrived about two this
afternoon, having to await the rising of the tide on the bar
of the river for about three hours. However, it was cool
and comfortable, so that we did not mind. The weather is
delightful here now.
Yesterday we made two or three stops — first at Nan
king, which was formerly the capital. The city lies back from
the river's bank a half mile or so, and is inclosed by heavy
walls. In the midst of the city rises a fortified hill, which
is all there is to be seen from the river. Soon after leaving
this city we passed the entrance to the great canal running
north to Peking. This was full of junks and looked very
picturesque with its grassy banks.

92 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Our next stop was at Chinchang, where we remained
about two hours taking on cargo. The others went for a
walk and climbed a wooded hill to get the view. It was
a very pretty spot just there, a level country for the most
part, covered with a heavy growth of green, with here and
there a cone-shaped rock rising abruptly. We saw three
of these cones rising from the river bed. It seems to be a
strange formation.
This morning when we awoke we were in the broad
mouth of the river, with the banks almost out of sight.
It seemed very good to be here again and to feel that we
were where everything was moving once more, and that
we were in touch with the world.
We went to church this morning, and heard a bishop
from Cincinnati preach. He is here with four young ladies
and his wife. They are going to Tien-Tsin soon, and I hope
we may become acquainted, as they seem like nice girls. We
hope to start within a few days.
Shanghai, Monday, August 26, 1895.
We leave to-night — or rather before daylight to-morrow
morning — for Tien-Tsin, stopping a few hours at Chee-foo.
We want to be back before the last of September. We shall
be glad to have this trip well over and on our way south.
We have just been to call on Mrs. J  , the English
lady who gave the dinner for us before we went up the
Yang-tse, and then for a long drive on the "Bubbling Well
Road," the fashionable driveway here. Again we are all
packed and ready to go on board the steamer after dinner,
but I assure you we are in no hurry to embark, for we do
not anticipate very comfortable quarters.

CHAPTER VI.
Steamer Kwangsang, Yellow Sea,
Wednesday, August 28, 1895.
This is the first moment that I have felt able to write
since we came aboard, although the sea has been quite calm.
Our boat is small, however, so we feel all the motion.
But to go back to where I left off Monday night. After
dinner we were introduced to Bishop W  and his party,
and then decided we would all go together to visit some
opium dens that evening. Our long string oi jinrikishas
rushed along the Bund and across the bridges into the
French section of the town. It was a typical Chinese opium
den that we went into, though it was near the French
quarter. The men reclined on short wooden couches, with
a small table before each of them, on which was a little lamp
and also a tray of tea-things. They were all smoking the
opium pipes, and did not seem to mind our curiosity in the
least. We climbed a steep flight of stairs, and there saw
a few women. It was a very close-smelling place, and we
were glad to be once more in the streets.
From there we crossed into the English quarter again,
through the narrow, brightly-lighted back streets, to a
Chinese restaurant and music-hall. There were several
stories to the building, each brightly lighted, with the front
all open. There, around little tables, sat the Chinese of both
sexes drinking tea. The music was Hke the Japanese, "only
more so," as one of the girls remarked.
We like Bishop W  's party very much. It consists
of himself, wife and daughter and three other young ladies.
93

94 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
We shall see more of them at Tien-Tsin and Peking prob
ably, as they are just behind us on another boat. The bishop
is of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and has been sent out
to the missions under that denomination to hold conventions.
We came aboard Monday night about eleven, and a
dreary enough place this boat looked in the dim light. Our
boat left early yesterday morning, so- when we came on deck
we were out of sight of land. There were a great many
junks and steamers all about us, though, and the water was
still very yellow from the Yang-tse. The steamers passed
us one by one, and we soon discovered that we were on a
very slow boat. We are safe, however, for that very reason,
so there is some comfort. There is only one other passen
ger, a lady medical missionary, who lives at Tien-Tsin.
She formerly lived near Meadville, Pennsylvania, so she and
Papa have plenty to talk about.
We are all on deck now in our chairs in the stem of
the boat. We find the steamer fairly comfortable, though
the accommodations are somewhat limited, but the table
is good and we get on very well. Chee-foo Harbor,
Thursday Morning, August 29, 1895.
We are at anchor, but it is raining so heavily that we
cannot go ashore. This is a very large harbor, almost
inclosed by hills, which, although almost barren of verdure,
are quite picturesque. Just in the vicinity of Chee-foo some
attempt has been made at agriculture, as this is the most
fashionable watering-place in China, and a great many mis
sionaries have homes here. They have introduced the culti
vation of our home fruits, which has proved to be most
successful, and we have been enjoying some of the delicious
apples and pears.
There are many warships here — at least a dozen.
We had a fine day yesterday; no sun, but a quiet sea
and soft air. We sat on deck, reading and embroidering.

ON THE KWANGSANG. 95
Papa and Dr. B  , the missionary, had a long talk. She
met Uncle Ralph when he was here.
We are down in the tiny cabin, and it looks as though
we should have to spend the day here, for the deck is so
wet. Papa and Isabel have gone ashore, in spite of the rain,
Chee-foo, Friday Morning, August 30, 1895.
We are still at anchor, but shall leave during the day.
Yesterday was very rainy and stormy. Papa and Isabel came
back to the boat before tiffin, and reported a heavy sea.
Mrs. R  's little boy is quite ill — nothing serious — but
she was much worried, and Papa felt that he ought to go
and see if he could do anything for her. Mr. R  is away
just now on a cruise, and she is spending the summer here
at Chee-foo. As the night came on the sea became more rough, and
no cargo could be landed. We moved farther out into the
harbor, for the captain thought it would be safer away from
the shore. I was awakened once in the night by feeling the
water unpleasantly near me, and found that all along the
side next to the porthole was completely soaked. I guess
the porthole must have leaked. I managed to get some dry
things together, and "camped out" on the couch in the cabin.
The others tell me I must be a Baptist.
The harbor is more quiet this morning, with a heavy
underswell coming in from sea. Were we not fortunate
in reaching a place of safety before the storm?. A boat has
arrived this morning from Shanghai, and we think that the
bishop's party must be aboard. Poor things! They surely
have had a rough passage. Gulf of Pechili,
Saturday Morning, August 31, 1895.
We are bounding away on a lovely, bright sea, with
only a pleasant breeze to ruffle the waves.
All day yesterday we sat on deck watching the interest-

96 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
ing harbor life all about us. Everyone was very busy, for
there were five or six steamers waiting to unload their cargo.
There were several heavy rainstorms off and on during the
day, but the sun came out brightly between times, so no
one minded them much.
It was very beautiful as we left the harbor about five.
The large sheet of water, almost landlocked, lay twinkUng
in the bright afternoon sun, dotted with boats of all sizes
and shapes, from the huge men-of-war to the tiny skiffs
which darted hither and thither, loaded with freight or pas
sengers. As we left the harbor we passed a huge rock,
standing alone in the water, which would be an ugly cus
tomer in time of a storm. Off to our right (south) stretched
the yellow, barren coast line, very much broken by bays and
sharp indentations. Port Arthur was off in that direction,
but too far away for us to see. On our left circled the
line of sandy beach, ending in a rocky promontory, around
which we passed. We followed this rocky coast, almost due
north, until the sun set, when we entered the Gulf of Pechili.
We sat on deck all the evening, watching the glow fade from
the sky in the west, and the moon shedding its silvery path
across the waters. Our thoughts drifted homeward, thinking
that in a few hours our dear ones would be watching the
same moon and stars. Astor House, Tien-Tsin, China,
Sunday Morning, September i, 1895.
Once more we are safe on shore, and all of us are so
glad. We have a very comfortable hotel here, almost as
good as the one at Shanghai, and I think the table is even
better. Yesterday we dropped anchor about one o'clock off the
bar at Takoo. Nothing in the shape of land could be seen,
except a dim, threadlike stretch along the horizon. The
coast is very low and flat, really nothing but salt marshes
or flats, which are under water some parts of the year when

TIEN-TSIN. 97
the river is high. At first we were afraid that we could not
land that night, for our steamer could not cross the bar.
The boat which the bishop's party was on came up soon,
however, and they in some way succeeded in making better
arrangements than we. They, or some other party on board,
secured a steam launch and came over for us, and we were
taken ashore together. We found that we made a large party
of Americans when we began to look about us, the largest
party, someone said, that had ever landed at Tien-Tsin at
one time. There was a party of young men, traveling for
the Transportation Department of the Field Museum in
Chicago, our American consul, with his wife and children,
besides Bishop W  's party and ourselves. Altogether
there were twenty-two Americans, besides two Englishmen.
We steamed up the Pei-ho for a mile or two
between muddy banks covered with mud houses and swarm
ing with people; passed junks loaded with produce, and
also swarming with human beings, landing at last at the
railway station. Don't faint! Really there was a pretense
for a station, and we were actually intending to take the train
for Tien-Tsin, a distance of about twenty-seven miles.
After a struggle, we got our baggage transported from
the launch to the platform of the station, but we had hard
work, because of the mob of people, who all wanted to help,
and, of course, we feared that if we lost sight of a single
article we should never see it again. Our packages were
very numerous, but at length we managed to collect them
all, and then proceeded to sit on them, and so kept them safe.
After waiting perhaps an hour the train came up. It
was packed with the returning troops and horses. Finally
we found a compartment empty and large enough to hold
all of us. This we took possession of, and, after some
delay, the train started, much to our relief, for the crowds
of Chinamen which literally surrounded us were decidedly
unpleasant and possibly dangerous, as they are a fierce lot
of people just about here. Our conveyance was not a hand-
7

98 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
some one, I assure you ; nothing but rough boards to sit on
and very small windows, like a baggage car, but we were
thankful to be as well off as we found ourselves.
The sun was declining as we sped across the marshes.
In some places the ground was covered with a thick growth
of rushes and other spots would be white with salt. Mud
huts were scattered here and there, and over all the red glow
spread, making the desolate spot look almost as a picture.
It was quite dark before we reached Tien-Tsin, and there
we had to cross on a ferry-boat from the railway terminus,
but at last we were landed on the Bund.
The Pei-ho is a very narrow stream and one of
the most crooked in the world. It is only about twenty-
seven miles to Tien-Tsin by rail from the coast, but by river
it is sixty or more. When the water is high the steamers
come up to Tien-Tsin by river, and we hope that by the
time we return from Peking the river will have risen, so
that our disagreeable experience of landing at Takoo will
not have to be repeated.
The hotel is a long distance from the place where we
landed, and as we sped along through the dimly-lighted
streets of the French quarter we thought it was a very pretty
city. There were many trees, and the houses, though sur
rounded by high walls in many places, looked homelike and
pleasant. The American consul, Mr. Reed, has asked us to tiffin
to-day. Major Pangborn, the head of the party for the
Field Museum, is staying with them. The bishop's party
has gone to the missionaries, of course, so we see nothing
of them, as the missionaries are located some distance from'
here. Tien-Tsin, Monday Morning, September 2, 1895.
We had such a nice time yesterday. Mrs. Reed is
charming, and it seemed so good to talk to an American.
They have a very pretty home, though it is unprepossessing

TIEN-TSIN. 99
on the exterior. It is surrounded by the salt marshes on
all but one side, and is quite away from the rest of the
inhabitants. Our tiffin was delicious, and it was such a luxury to
us to be away from the hotel.
Major Pangborn is a very jolly man, and together we
had a merry time of it. He told us (Mr. Pangborn, I mean)
that their party was on a three years' trip, going over every
line of railway in the world. It makes rather an interesting
tour. They have been gone a year. To-day they went to
the Great Wall by rail, at a place near here where the wall
runs down to the sea. To think of coming here just to ride
on that one-horse affair! It is the same line that we took
coming from Takoo.
Last night we went to the church where Bishop W 
presided over the communion service.
We are waiting now for Mrs. R  to come and go
put with us. She has offered to help us, at a store, get
some of the things that we shall need to take with us to
Peking. She is such an enchanting little woman, and I do
wonder how she endures living here. It is surprising,
though, to see such a pretty place as they have. There are
a great many trees and different kinds of flowers, but no
grass ; that will not grow because of the salt, I suspect.
Tuesday, September 3, 1895.
I am going to post this letter now, as the mail will prob
ably leave before we return. We expect to be en route
to-day sometime. We take jinrikishas this noon and meet
Qur boats above the "Bridge of Boats." Have our cook and
"boy" all ready, besides the innumerable "trackers," who will
have to pull when the wind dies down. The bishop's party
will go at the same time, and we shall present quite a fleet —
four boats in all. It will probably take us five or six days
to reach Peking.
Yesterday afternoon we visited the mission, and Miss

100 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
B  went with us to some of the Chinese shops. We
rode through all sorts of streets — all narrow, but compara
tively clean. They were only wide enough to allow 'rikishas
to pass one another, and there was a constant stream going
both ways, so you can see there was not much chance for
the foot passengers, and there were plenty of them, too.
It was a picturesque sight; the Chinese in their blue
and white, with occasionally red, clothing, their long pig
tails and heads surmounted with the little round caps, with
their different "buttons" shining in the sun. The buttons
which adorn the hat show the rank of the wearer. Of course
there were many with no hats at all. There were also women
with tiny feet hobbling about, as well as innumerable chil
dren of all ages. They were a respectable-looking crowd
of people, but more bold than we saw in the south. One
street that we went through was called "Old Clothes Street,"
and there the pawnshops were located; all sorts of fur gar
ments were hung out to view. I have heard that everyone
pawns his winter clothing in summer, but cannot say how
true the tale may be.
The original city of Tien-Tsin, inside of the city walls,
is only a small part of the present town. All that we had
so far seen was outside of the walls. Now we entered
through a heavy gateway, then into the wide streets, paved
with huge stones, worn into great ruts by the passing of
innumerable feet and heavy carts. The streets were much
more quiet there, though very dirty and dilapidated looking.
In the center of the city rose a tower with arches, through
which the streets ran at right angles. We passed under
these arches and then on and out through another gateway
into the open country. The great salt plain stretched away
as far as the eye could reach, with pools of stagnant water
left from recent rains glistening in the late afternoon sun.
These deepened in color as we looked, turning to a rich
orange and then red, as the sun reached the horizon. As
the sun set, the full moon began to shed her soft light over

ON THE PEI-HO. 101
the landscape. Our road ran along a sort of an embank
ment, raised above the plain, skirting the city to the right.
This gave to us a very good view of the flat country and
winding river to the right, and the town twinkling with lights
to the left. We passed the arsenal, with its tall chimneys, at
one place. In that building the treaty was signed at the close
of the late war between China and Japan,
We were all very tired after the excitement of the after
noon and the long ride, but I think we enjoyed the ride
home to its full. All seemed so peaceful and the hotel looked
so good and homelike when we reached it. Pei-ho, China,
Wednesday, September 4, 1895.
I wish you could see us curled up in our little boats.
They are queer affairs, I assure you. We have two of them
and manage to be very comfortable by using one to sit in
and the other for kitchen and dining-room purposes. We
left the hotel yesterday just after luncheon, and rode through
the town along the river's bank to the "Bridge of Boats,"
which consists of a lot of flat-bottomed boats fastened side
by side together, so that a very good bridge is formed across
the river. These boats separate if any sort of a craft wishes
to pass. We had quite a time to wait before the bishop's
party made its appearance, but time was not wasted, for the
life of the people all about us was most interesting. Some
of the costumes, especially those the women wore, were
.very queer. The Manchurian women wear their hair in a
long "psyche," which is quite curious.
At last we were really off, with our sails set and the
coolies splashing with their long poles. For a long time
we passed the mud houses belonging to Tien-Tsin, but
finally reached the open country. We could not see much
over the high banks, but once in a while a pretty glimpse
of green could be had, showing well-cultivated fields and
waving grain. We were evidently leaving the salt deposits

102 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
of the coast behind. After dinner we sat watching the
moonlight on the water as we wound around the numerous
curves. Our boats made a very picturesque little fleet, with
the white sails set and the coolies pulling by their long
ropes on shore, all in a line. We remained up quite late, but
finally even the moonlight could not keep us awake, and
we crept into our inviting-looking nests, enclosed in white
cheesecloth. We found them hard enough, however, but
slept very well for all that. The men worked nearly all
night, then tied up to the bank for a time to get some rest
and sleep. We are going along smoothly this morning, with
a good breeze behind us. Pei-ho,
Thursday Morning, September 5, 1895.
We are moored to the bank at present, while the boys
get out extra lines and more men are hired to pull us up the
river. There is a strong head wind to-day, making our
progress very slow. Yesterday we went along splendidly,
with our sails set all day. We got very tired sitting so still,
for our boats are too small to even walk up and down
for exercise, but we are much more comfortable than we
expected to be. The rest of the boats are quite a distance
ahead of us for some reason; perhaps they are lighter and
therefore can go faster. They are not as large as ours, at
least as our larger one. We sat and sewed and read all day
yesterday and also to-day. The weather is delightfully cool
and not a cloud in the sky, but the scenery is decidedly
monotonous. High banks on either side shut out all that
can be seen anyway, or else a long stretch of sandy flats that
were once the river bed. The farms, when we do see them,
look thrifty, but there are no houses anywhere in sight. I
do not know where the inhabitants live, but I suppose there
must be villages somewhere.

PEKING. 103
Tung-Chow, China,
Friday Afternoon, September 6, 1895.
We have reached the end of our trip by houseboat, and
at present are fast to the bank in the midst of hundreds of
other boats, waiting for to-morrow, when we shall start up
the canal. All day yesterday we crawled along, with the
wind right against us. Half the time we were on a mud
bank, so you see we could not make much progress. The
boys pulled and pushed most of last night in consequence,
for we wanted to get here by noon to-day. We did not
make it, though, and it was three before we pulled up beside
the other boats here in the midst of this rabble. Now we
shall be obliged to wait until morning, for we have not time
to reach Peking from here before the gates are closed at
sundown. The bishop's party has gone to the missionaries,
but we preferred to^ stay on board our boat. William has
been very miserable for the last day or two, and we shall
be glad to get to the hotel with him. There are no com
forts here. Hotel de Peking, Peking, China,
Sunday, September 8, 1895.
It hardly seems possible that we are really in Peking
and are so comfortable. Yesterday I did not have an oppor
tunity to write, for we were too busy. We started from
the houseboat very early, as we were glad to be away from
the noise and confusion on the river. We had passed a very
uncomfortable, anxious night, with the strange noises all
about us. At one time a number of shots were fired, and
great confusion followed, and we did not know but that
our boats would be the next attacked. However, no one dis
turbed us. William was very ill, too. He felt better this
morning, so we were able to walk the half mile over to the
canal. It all seemed so much like Egypt, or Mexico, with
the dust, mud huts and donkeys.
We had to wait a long time for the bishop and his party.

104 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and at last pushed off and went up the canal to a point near
the stopping-place to meet them. We were on a flat-bot
tomed scow, with sometimes a man, and sometimes a donkey,
pulling by a rope on the bank. It was eleven o'clock before
the party was together and we could really start on up the
canal. As we looked back at Tung-Chow we had a very good
view of the city. There was a large, high pagoda, which,
rising above the huts and trees, made a lovely picture against
the blue sky. On the banks were fields of Indian com and
another grain which looked like broom-corn. There were
groves of trees here and there, with a tomb or temple nestling
in their midst. It really was a very charming ride, and we
enjoyed it exceedingly. We saw quantities of white ducks
on the river, among the rushes along the bank ; they seemed
to be in flocks tended by someone near by. Slowly we
moved on, changing boats five times at the locks en route.
At noon we had a light luncheon, which we had brought
with us. At length, late in the afternoon, the walls of the
great capital were seen in the distance, and we began to
realize that we were really nearing the wonderful city of
Peking. We moored alongside the bank outside the Chinese
City walls, and soon were surrounded by a crowd of curious
natives. We secured some donkeys and carts to transport
ourselves and baggage to the hotel. Mamma and William
occupied a cart, and I fear had the worst of it, for they
are the most uncomfortable things, without any springs
whatever. The rest of us had donkeys and traveled along
nicely. I had a pretty little beast of a light brown color,
with a string of bells around his neck. First we passed
through the gate into the Chinese City, which looked
much as it did in Tien-Tsin, then on into an open space
skirting the wall of the Tartar City. The dust was fearful
there, and it was the same in the Tartar City, where the
European compounds are located. The streets are wide.

qir

PEKING. 105
but in the worst condition imaginable. Really, no European
or American can form much of an idea of their filth or
dilapidated condition without seeing them. They are more
like the dried-up bed of a river which has been worn into
ridges, than anything else. The wealthy compounds, inclosed
by high stone walls, rise on either side, but besides these
there are innumerable booths and huts scattered all along
the street, without any attempt at keeping a straight line;
many of them stand almost in the center of the road.
At length, after a ride of perhaps three miles, we
alighted at the door of our hotel compound, and felt as
though we had reached a haven of rest at last. The court
of the hotel was full of flowers, and everything looked
clean and inviting. We had a doctor for William imme
diately, and put him to bed. He feels very miserable and
sleeps most of the time.
There are a lot of dogs of all sizes here, from a tiny
Chinese pug only six inches long to a large setter. They
are very cunning.
The curio men have found us out already, even if it
is Sunday, and we have been^ looking at curious old embroid
eries the whole of the morning.
Mr. Pangborn and party have just come, and will go
back to-morrow. They are only racing around. The major
says that he has had enough of China; but we like it better
the more we see of it. How differently people are made !
Peking, China, Monday, September 9, 1895.
William is some better, and we are much encouraged.
The doctor says that he came near having typhus fever from
eating such poor food. It must have started with him in
Japan, when he went off by himself into the interior, and
then lately the stuff we have eaten on the Pei-ho was enough
to have made any of us ill. We shall try and buy chickens
and eggs going back, and thus avoid the canned food.
Yesterday, after luncheon, we went to Mr. Pangbom's

106 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
room, and he showed us some of the photographs that Mr.
Jackson, the photographer of the party, has taken of the
countries they have visited. Mr. Jackson is the finest scenic
photographer in the United States, if not in the world.
After tea, at four, we went with an Englishman, who
is staying here at the hotel, onto the wall which surrounds
the Tartar City. We went through the dusty streets to the
gate through which we plowed yesterday. There we found
a wide, stone, inclined roadway leading to the top of the
gate, and from this we reached the wall. The latter is at
least fifty feet thick, with even wider portions here and there,
and a hundred feet high. The whole of it is overgrown
with weeds, and looks quite like a neglected piece of ground
on the top. There are rude stone huts scattered about;
these are for the use of the guards.
We walked from one gate to another, a distance of
about a mile, obtaining a fine view of all of the city of Peking.
To our left lay the Chinese City, with the dry moat just at
the foot of the wall ; to the right, the Tartar City, with flags
of all nations fluttering among the tree tops. Here and there
the green tiles of some Mandarin's house made a spot of
more vivid green. Ahead of us to the right lay the Imperial
and Forbidden cities, with their yellow-tiled roofs glittering
in the evening sunshine. When we reached the second gate
way we stood just in the center of the wall on that side
of the city. The Forbidden City lay at our feet. The wall
inclosing it was not as high as the one we were on, so that
we could look over into it, but it was heavily shaded with
trees, so that nothing could be seen except the roofs of
the palaces and pavilions. A hill rose in the midst of the
Forbidden City, covered with trees and surmounted by
some sort of a building. This hill is supposed to be made
of coal, and is kept in case of need ; it has been there many
years. To the north stretched the mountains, blue in the
distance, and to the south and east the country looked very
level. Over on the further side of the Chinese City we

PEKING. 107
could dimly see the Temple of Heaven, where the Emperor
goes for worship. We enjoyed our walk so much, but felt
pretty well tired out on our return.
After dinner Isabel and I had a long talk with Mr.
N  , the Englishman. He has lived in the Orient most of
his life, and told us some very exciting stories of his experi
ences in the wars in Egypt. He has lived in India also, and
told of knowing the original of Mr. Crawford's "Mr. Isaacs,"
whose real name is Jacobs. The story Mr. Crawford tells
of the latter is partly true, especially the first of his life. He
is now an old man and is a dealer in precious stones some
where in India.
To-day we have been busy with the curio dealers, both
in embroidery and cloisonne. We have received calls, too,
from Miss Haven and Colonel Denby, so, take it all in all,
this has been a pleasantly occupied day.
The bishop's party talks of going to the Wall on
Wednesday, but I doubt if we start so soon. We shall be
obliged to ride on donkeys, or go in mule-litters. I wonder
which is to be preferred. I think I shall try the latter, but
we shall see. I am so well now that I feel equal to any
thing. The weather is delightful here, much as it is at home
at this season of the year. We are all ready for bed, except
Papa, who is out on the piazza talking with Mr. N  about
Persia. What a varied life that man has had ! An account
of it would make very interesting reading.
Tuesday Morning, September lo, 1895.
This has been a very quiet day, spent mostly in the
compound. The curio men have been here in full force;
they have become decidedly tiresome.
Mamma and Papa have been out making a few calls.
William is much better, and came to the table to-night. He
is so thin, poor boy ! but is feeling a great deal better than
be has for a long time. His trip in Japan, from Nikko, was
too much for him, and he has not been well since.

108 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Peking, Wednesday Night, September ii, 1895.
We are so tired to-night, for we have been nearly all
over the city this afternoon. This morning it rained, so
that we could not go out, as we expected. After tiffin the
clouds passed away, and we climbed into our sedan-chairs
and carts and started out. Our first visit was to the Obser
vatory, which is not in use now, though the beautiful instru
ments are wonderfully preserved. They are of French work
manship, and are probably two or three hundred years old,
brought to China by the Jesuits. I wonder if the Chinese
even know how to use them. The view from the Observa
tory was very fine; it was really only a wide place in the
wall inclosing the Tartar City, but a different part from
where we were before. This time we could look away to
the east and see the route by which we had approached the
great city a few days ago. After we came down from the
Observatory Mr. N  and William went off to take some
pictures, and the rest of us went on through the dirty, nar
row lanes and alleys to the Congregational Mission to see
Miss Haven. It was a long ride, and we were very glad
when finally we arrived. The weekly prayer-meeting was
just in session, so we attended that, although the service was
all in Chinese. Then Miss Haven showed us over the place,
into every little court, and there were about twenty, ending
at the printing rooms, and then we went to Miss Haven's
own little home for tea. We were more than hungry, and
everything tasted so good, especially the cake, which was
like home. When we reached our hotel once more we were com
pelled to be busy packing, for we make our start for the
Wall early to-morrow morning. Nankow Pass,
Friday Afternoon, September 13, 1895.
We are on top of the Great Wall of China. Tiffin is
just finished, and we are unanimously declaring it is the best

NANKORO PASS. 109
meal we have had since we left home. I could not write a
word yesterday, for it was a long, hard day. We left Peking
about seven o'clock. There were three mule-litters and
three donkeys, so that we could change around occasionally.
The litters were not at all comfortable, though well padded
with mattresses and pillows. The mules never kept step,
so there was a constant motion much like a ship on an angry
sea, only the waves were very short. I rode a donkey all
the moming, and although I became quite tired, it was the
most enjoyable part of the trip. First we went through the
town to the northwest gate, passing the Imperial City wall
on the way. It took us some time to get clear of the houses
even after we left the city proper, but at last the open
country was all about us, with its waving fields of grain.
The ground was level, with the mountains stretching away
under their hazy blue atmosphere in the distance. Once in
a while there would be a grove of trees or a town, but we
were always, glad to be clear of the latter. The roads were
terrible, being usually nothing but worn-out watercourses
with high clay banks, we having to cling like flies to the sides
of the embankments, as a rule. About two we stopped for
tiffin at quite a large town. There we had our first view
of a real Chinese inn, and it was not nearly as dirty as I
expected, though not clean. The one-storied building
inclosed a square court, where men and animals were very
near neighbors. We were all tired and very glad of the
opportunity to rest after luncheon. At one side of the room
was a raised platform, under which a fire is built in winter;
that was the bed. Of course, one's own mattress and bedding
have to be used, and, as it is only a tiled floor, you can
imagine there is not much spring to it.
In the afternoon I rode in the litter, and did not find it
so very bad after once getting accustomed to it. We went
through much prettier country than in the morning, pretty
towns nestling in the midst of trees or along the banks of
the streams. We were objects of great interest to all of
the inhabitants.

110 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Many of the women through here have natural-sized
feet ; these are of the Manchurian race. The present Empress
is a Manchurian. There are many of the "Golden Lilies," to
be sure, on every side.
Just at sunset we began to pass strings of dromedaries
coming down through the pass from Mongolia. These beasts
usually rest during the day and travel at night. Papa said
that he thought we must have passed two thousand of them,
all in single file, in lots of about eight or nine. They were
fastened together by a cord running through the nose, which
was attached to the beast just ahead. The leader had a bell
around his neck, and usually carried the head man. Such
beautiful creatures as they were, with long, soft, brown hair.
Some were cream-colored and others shaded to almost black.
They were such majestic-looking animals that it seemed
almost insulting to ask them to carry a burden. File after
file of all sorts of animals passed us; great droves of black
and white sheep, and string after string of donkeys and
mules, some ladened with wool and some with fruit.
It was very dark when we reached Nankow, the town at
the entrance to the pass, where we spent the night. Just as
soon as dinner was finished we had our beds made, and were
glad enough to stretch our aching limbs in rest.
I want to give you a little idea of our quarters in this
queer little Chinese inn. As I said before, it is a one-storied
structure, inclosing a square courtyard, into which all the
rooms open. Most of these rooms — if one can dignify them
by such a name — are used as mangers and storehouses, and
are really only sheds. At the further end of the court, and
facing the gateway which leads to the narrow street, are our
apartments. They consist in this instance of two fairly large
rooms with brick floors, and containing only a brick platform
as furniture. This platform is the bed. It is hollow under
neath, and in winter a fire is kept lighted so as to warm the
apartment. Our mattresses are laid on this platform, and
as we have all our own bedding we are fairly comfortable.

PEKING. Ill
There is a table and also some chairs for us to use at our
meals. Of course we have our own cook and man along to
do our work and cook our food, so that we only have to come
to these rooms for shelter. In the court outside repose our
animals and carts, so there is plenty of noise all about, but
we were too tired last night to mind such small things
as that. The bishop's party is a little ahead of us, having been
up to the Wall yesterday. They were at another inn near by
last night, and are now on their way back to Peking.
We were up bright and early this morning, and have
enjoyed the ride through the pass very much. On both sides
rose steep rocky mountains, with sharp-pointed peaks pierc
ing the sky. There was a constant stream of animals and
litters passing us all the time, and the scenery was very inter
esting. After riding for probably three hours we caught
sight of the Great Wall, as it stretched along the mountain
summits and across the pass. We are on top of the Wall
now, a little to the right of the gateway. It is about twelve
feet wide, and is not nearly so high or wide as the wall about
Peking, but the length of it is wonderful. Up it strides,
right over the mountain peaks, standing erect and firm where
one would deem it almost an impossibility for anything to
find foothold. It is impossible to walk up some of the
inclines. Papa has just been trying to do so, and found he
had to give it up, Peking, China,
Sunday Evening, September 15, 1895.
We are back in Peking, as you see. All day yesterday
we were on the go until seven in the evening, so I had no
opportunity to write, much as I wanted to do so. It was
a cloudy day and rainy for about four hours, a soaking
drizzle. I rode on the donkey most of the time, and enjoyed
myself thoroughly in spite of the wet.
When we first left Nankow we skirted the mountains,

112 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
with the plains to the right. It was such an interesting
change, the mountains rising high with their sharp peaks.
There is no foliage upon these mountains, and not much
in the valleys, but what there is looks all the lovelier in con
trast with the bare rocks. The ground is very rich about
here ; the harvests are just being gathered in, and all appears
to be so nice and thrifty. We are ever thinking, though, of
how much more might be done under a different gov
ernment. Our first stop was at the tomb of one of the Ming
emperors. There were several of these tombs, with high
walls around them, all painted in bright red, with yellow
tiled roofs. They looked very unique nestling among the
foliage of dark pines, with the bluish mountains rising for a
background. We were surprised to behold such grandeur
as we saw upon entering the gate of this emperor's tomb.
There were several courts opening out from one another,
with carved, lacquered or painted colonnades and richly
carved marble staircases. After passing through these courts
we finally came to the pagoda-shaped tomb, on the second
story of which stands a sort of headstone of red lacquered
wood, with a long inscription upon it, which, of course, we
could not read. There were temple rooms connected with
this great tomb, gloomy and silent, without any worshipers.
In one was a number of columns, each formed from a single
trunk of a tree — tremendous things. They must have been
brought from some far-distant country, for China certainly
never grew such. We had a light luncheon before we started
on our way again, to which some delicious persimmons were
added, picked fresh from the trees for us.
After leaving this tomb we came in about half an hour
to what was probably another tomb of greater grandeur,
for from there began a splendidly built road leading to
Peking, formed of huge blocks of white marble, with mas
sive stone bridges over what were once rivers. These
streams have gradually disappeared, owing to the trees being

PEKING. 113
cut in years gone by and never replanted. This road is
entirely gone in places; in others the weeds grow thickly
between the stones. The second temple has a magnificent
approach, with at least thirty-six huge stone images flank
ing the roadway. These represent huge warriors and all the
large animals, each cut out of a single block of stone; the
size must have been at least double that of nature. We
were very much surprised, for we had seen nothing like them
anywhere for beauty of execution and size. It was three
o'clock when we had our substantial tiffin, and late when
we reached our resting-place for the night. I do not think
any of us were sorry that it was our last night in a Chi
nese inn.
To-day we have had a lovely ride in the bright, clear
air and sunshine. We went gaily on, knowing that we should
have a clean place in which to rest at night. Through the
grain-fields we wound our way, until at noon we reached a
temple wherein was hung a remarkably large bell. This
was inscribed inside and out with words from the Buddhist
Bible. We arrived in Peking about half-past two, but it took us
until four to reach the hotel. I was very tired. On our way
through the city we passed about half a dozen wedding pro
cessions. First came the lantern or standard bearers, then
the huge yellow drums with rich embroidered cloths thrown
over them, also some other instruments. Then the bride
in her bright red inclosed chair, and lastly the carts con
taining her relatives. It was all very gorgeous, and sort
of pitiful, too. Pei-hoi, China.
Tuesday Evening, September 17, 1895.
Yesterday we were glad to be as quiet as possible. It
rained in the morning, so we could not stir out of the house.
Our bedding was packed and sent on to Tung-Chow by
the cook, where he was to get the boat ready for our arrival.

114 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
After luncheon we started .off for the Methodist Mission,
to call on the W  s and to know how they stood their
journey. Mrs. W  seemed greatly prostrated with
fatigue when we saw her at Nankow. We met a number
of very agreeable people belonging to the mission, and had
an interesting call. It was a very pleasant compound, shaded
by trees, and the houses stretching along in a row. It looked
so much more pleasant than any other similar place we
had visited. In the evening we had a last talk with Mr.
N  , who related to us some very interesting narratives.
This morning we rode to the canal, and so on down
to Tung-Chow, arriving about three, to find everything
ready for the boat to push off as soon as we arrived. We
had the pleasure of the bishop's party down the- canal, but
probably shall see nothing more of them until w'e reach
Tien-Tsin, as their boats are ahead of us now. We hope
to arrive to-morrow night, or Thursday morning early.
You see it takes a much shorter time than on the upriver
trip, for the current is very swift.
We are sitting around our little dining-table, with one
candle for a light. The "boy" is making up our couches
with the cheesecloth mosquito-net. I do not beUeve the
insects will trouble us much, and the snowy white tent is
so much nicer than the dirty roof of the boat. Pei-ho, China,
Wednesday Afternoon, September i8, 1895.
We have been going quietly along all day, passing the
familiar banks that we saw as we went up the river. I do
not believe our men are hurrying very much, for all the
boats going downstream pass us. We were hoping that we
should reach Tien-Tsin to-night, but now I do not believe
we shall before moming. It is not any use in getting angry
or trying to hurry, for these people will do just as they like
anyhow.

TIEN-TSIN. 115
Astor House, Tien-Tsin, China,
Thursday, September 19, 1895.
We arrived about noon, though our boatmen pushed
and pushed a good part of the afternoon yesterday and late
into the night; every boat passed us. We concluded that
there was not any advantage in having a large boat ; besides,
we could not tell how much cargo our men were bringing
down the river free of charge. We were all so tired and
cross over the delay, for we wanted to have comfortable
quarters once more; but there is no such thing as hurrying
in China, and we had to have patience. It was very interest
ing to see the hundreds of boats on the river when we
reached the city. It was so picturesque, even though every
thing was so dirty ; but then one need not look too close.
We are very comfortably domiciled now at the Astor
House, but, as is natural, we are anxious to be moving
south. Our steamer is at present fast in the mud some
where between here and Takoo, and there is no telling when
it will be afloat. We are congratulating ourselves, however,
that the river is high enough for the vessels to come up to
the dock here, rather than to be obliged to take that dis
agreeable ride in the train again.
Steamer Tung-Chow, Pei-ho, China,
Saturday Morning, September 21, 1895.
We left Tien-Tsin soon after seven yesterday morning,
and it has taken us all day to come down this far on the
river. We are at Takoo getting on coal. The reason why
we are not at Chee-foo instead of Takoo is that we have
spent the most of the last twenty-four hours getting fast
upon the banks of this narrow, crooked Pei-ho, and
trying to get off again. It was really very laughable to see
the way in which this great boat would calmly send its bow
right into the bank as deliberately as possible, and then
swing its stern around as though it had no intention of going

116 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
on to Chee-foo or Shanghai, or any other place. We are
quite content, however, for this is a very comfortable boat —
the best running between here and Shanghai, and is the same
vessel that Uncle Ralph was on when he was caught in
the heavy storm on the Gulf of Pechili. The captain recog
nized us — or, rather. Papa — and remembered that the name
was the same. There are some pleasant-looking people
aboard, though not many, as the boat is small. Poor Papa
has not been well for the last day or two; sort of malaria,
I am afraid, and the effects of bad food. We are so glad
that that northern trip is well over, for it was probably the
hardest and most dangerous we shall have to take.
Chee-foo Harbor, Sunday Morning.
We had a pleasant day yesterday. Got out of the noise
of Takoo about five a. m., and found a smooth sea awaiting
us. The afternoon and evening were spent in getting
acquainted with our fellow-passengers, two of whom we
like very well. One, a Mrs. D  , is an American, whose
home was formerly in New York, but who is living at pres
ent with her daughter in Tien-Tsin ; she is very charming
indeed. The other is a German gentleman from Shanghai,
who is very sociable. Mrs. D  has been telling us of the
life here in the East.
This morning, by breakfast time, we had dropped an
chor, and about ten o'clock took a sampan and went ashore.
Chee-foo is quite a pretty place on close inspection, though
there is very little foliage. It seems clean for anything so
near Peking. We went to see Mrs. R  at her hotel, and
were surprised to find Major Pangborn and party still there.
We had supposed they were well on their way through Corea
by this time. They have been waiting for a boat ever since
we went on our recent trip ; but then sailing is always uncer
tain. After a pleasant call on Mrs. R  we went to church,
where we saw a number of missionaries dressed as Chinese.
It always seems a pity to me that they make themselves so

TIEN-TSIN. IIT
ridiculous. I am sure the Chinese only laugh at them. We
heard a good sermon, however, and felt well repaid for
going among them, returning to the steamer in time for
tiffin. I have just come up on deck from having a nap, and
feel very fresh and fine, as I have on a nice clean duck suit.
Papa is feeling better, and will probably be all right by
the time we reach Shanghai. William is quite well now,
as are all the rest of us. The pure air and good water were
all that we needed. Our hands became so dry and rough
frpm the hard water in the north that they were quite
tender and painful.

CHAPTER VII,
Astor House, Shanghai,
Tuesday Afternoon, September 24, 1895.
We arrived a few hours ago, and found our mail await
ing us, in which we have been engrossed ever since.
We had a nice passage coming down from Chee-foo,
but the boat had no ballast whatever and rolled hke a log on
the water, making everything unsteady. We are very glad
to be here once more. Papa feels almost well.
I am sorry that our friends have been so worried about
the cholera. There has been a great deal, and we were very
much afraid of it for several weeks after we reached China,
but were careful what food and drink we took, and were
all right. I have told you of every time that we have been
ill, and you see we have fared reasonably well. As for the
dreadful massacres that have occurred, we are not mission
aries, and therefore I think are comparatively safe. We
will talk everything over when we get home; these mission
aries are fruitful subjects of conversation here. Now, you
must not worry any more, for I assure you we are just as
safe as though we were in Chicago, with all those dreadful
grip-cars. Our photographs we expect to get in Hongkong, if
that man has sent them, as he promised. Those Japs are so
slow and never can be depended upon.
Shanghai, China, September 26, 1895.
I could not write yesterday, although I tried several
times to do so. We are very busy here now, buying the last
118

SHANGHAI. 119
things that we want to take home with us and getting ready
to leave on Saturday for the south. We have found some
lovely brocades and other beautiful fabrics, which we intend
to take on to Paris to have made into gowns. I have
not bought my toilet set in ivory that I sO' much wanted, for
fear of it cracking; tortoise-shell would be as bad, but I
shall get some silver in Canton. The designs will be unique
anyway, and it will be durable.
We are going to the old portion of Shanghai this after
noon with quite a party. Mrs. D  is with us a gr^at
deal, and we enjoy her company so much.
Shanghai, China, September 27, 1895.
We have been packing, and now our room looks
fairly respectable after the confusion we were in for a time.
Mamma and Mrs. D  are in the next room waiting for
tea; then they are going for a drive.
We had an interesting time in the Chinese City yester
day, and found it very picturesque, with its narrow streets,
its tiny shops and huge signboards on either side. The
most attractive place that we saw was a lovely garden, or
"Rockery," as it is called. It was all artificial, of course, but
very pretty, with rocks piled high into miniature mountains.
There were paths leading everywhere, and ponds and bridges
scattered here and there. There were beautiful summer-
bouses also, and trees, flowers and vines in abundance. The
Toofs of the Chinese houses are so pretty, rather too heavy
perhaps, but decidedly artistic, and they are usually brightly
colored, according to the rank of the inhabitants — yellow
for royalty and green for the nobles. The others use brown
or gray tiles, and at the corners of the roofs fancy heads
of men or animals are often placed.
After we came home I went for a drive with Mrs. D 
in a dear little brougham. We ride 'va. jinrikishas so much
that a real carriage seems strange. We made a call on a
lady that Mrs. D  knew, who had just received some

120 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
lovely Paris gowns, which she showed to us. Such beauties
as they were, it made me wild to get tO' Paris. We had a
long and very pleasant drive, returning home just in time
for dinner. Saturday, September 28, 1895.
We leave here this afternoon via the French Mail for
Hongkong, and we are all so delighted to be off. Good-bye
until we reach Hongkong.

Steamship Natal, Between Shanghai and Hongkong,
Sunday, September 29, 1895.
We have been having a rough sea all day, with a heavy
rain falling. It is the end of a typhoon which swept along
this coast last week, and we are very thankful not to have
gotten intO' it worse than we have. They must be terrible
when in full force. It is raining still, so that we cannot be on
deck, but we do not mind that for the cabin is so comfort
able. This is a French steamer which sails between Mar
seilles and Yokohama, and all the officers and servants are
French. It seems so' different from any other boat I have
ever been on. A number of children are aboard, two of
them belonging to a Hungarian lady who lives in Canton.
She is the one on whom I called in Shanghai with Mrs.
D  . Both she and her husband are very well educated
and charming, speaking several languages, but neither of
the children speak a word of anything except Pidgin Eng
lish. Does it not seem a pity?
This time to-morrow we hope tO' be in Hongkong.
I cannot get accustomed to the sea even yet, for every time
it is rough I feel quite uncomfortable, though not really
seasick. We are all absorbed in the Sunday Inter Oceans
of Chicago, having received a package of them in the last
mail.

HONGKONG. 121
Hongkong Hotel, Hongkong, China,
October i, 1895.
This letter is going off to-day by the Canadian Pacific
steamer, which is in port. We had a lovely night last night,
with a full moon and smooth sea, and were awake by day
light this morning, and upon looking out of our porthole
we found that we were nearly in the harbor. The sun was
beginning to rise, sending beautiful tints up into the sky
behind the dark hills. This is really a lovely island on which
Hongkong is situated, much prettier than I had expected
to find. Our hotel is on the Bund, back of which rise the
hills covered with houses. This is an English place, you
know, so the houses and principal buildings are all well built.
There are plenty of Chinese here, and some narrow streets
with their tiny shops and huge signboards. Carriages are
almost unknown, though there are a few, for everyone uses
sedan-chairs ox jinrikishas. The hills are so steep that a
horse could not go very far, and even the jinrikishas are
only used along the shore. A cable line runs to the top of
the "Peak," which rises just above us. It must be lovely
up there, and if we were going to stay any length of time
we should probably move to the hotel which is situated
there. This is said to be better than the one we are in,
though we are very comfortable. Papa sent a cablegram
to Uncle Ralph this morning. To-morrow we expect to
leave for Canton, returning here later.
The New Canton Hotel, Canton, China,
Wednesday, October 2, 1895.
Yesterday afternoon we went on to the "Peak" and
stayed until after sunset. The Island of Hongkong has
several mountain peaks on it, but this is the chief one. The
other islands, which are scattered about in the surrounding
waters, are very rocky, and have little or no foliage upon
them. I think none of the mainland is visible.

122 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
It was very beautiful up there, with all the lovely tints
on land and sea; the sunset was gorgeous. As we were
getting out of the cable-car at the summit we met a young
Englishman and his wife, whom we had seen on board
the steamer coming from Japan. Their home is on the
"Peak," so they kindly became our guides. We had, with
them, a long walk and a hard climb, but were well repaid.
On top of the hill is the signal station, and from there we
could look in all directions — away out to sea on one side
and up the broad river which leads to Canton on the other.
At our feet lay the great Anglo-Chinese city, with its variety
of roof tops. The smoke from the Chinese quarter made
a beautiful blue haze, which blended every color and out
line, giving to the scene almost the appearance of a mirage.
This morning early we came on board the steamer to
come here, and have enjoyed the ride exceedingly. The
river is very wide, reminding us of the Japanese Inland
Sea, only it is, if anything, more interesting. We had the
same bright, clear weather with us, too, though we are told
that the river can be very rough in a typhoon. About three
o'clock we arrived in Canton, finding a nice clean hotel,
where we are the only guests. We engaged a guide at once ;
Ah Kum Junior is his name. At four we started out in
our sedan-chairs, to see some of the sights. Of course, our
hotel is in the European quarter, but we had only to cross
a short bridge and were in Chinatown, The streets are so
narrow that no one can use a carriage anywhere, so chairs
are the usual conveyances, but even then one can touch the
houses on either side in passing along, Mr, Stoddard, in his
pictures of Canton, painted it as the dirtiest city imaginable,
but we thought it remarkably clean for China, The streets
are well paved with large flagstones, and are, compara
tively speaking, free from disagreeable smells and dirt — a
great deal cleaner than our own ofteni are, or would be with
so little space for so many people. The narrow lanes, with
their high brick or stone walls, huge signs and tiny shops,

CANTON. 123
are so picturesque. We went into a few shops and one
temple, and then turned homeward, pretty well tired out and
ready for a. nap before dinner. I will tell you more about ;
this wonderful city later. Mr. S  , our consul here, called
this evening, and we are going to spend most of Friday :
with him. Thursday, October 3, 1895.
I have only time for a line. We have been busy, busy
all day long, and I feel as though my head would burst with
all I have seen.
Perhaps you remember what Mr. Stoddard told you
of Canton, so I will not say much about the "sights"
of the city, as everyone is familiar with them. I enjoy the
street scenes most of all, with their crowds of people and tiny
shops. As we pass along in our chairs, borne on the shoul
ders of three coolies, we can look at our ease into all sorts
of queer places. There is nothing to disgust one anywhere,
not nearly as much as in Japan. There are innumerable meat
and fruit shops. At one place we saw three live rats hang
ing by their feet, and there were lots of dried ones every
where, but it is only the lowest classes that eat such things.
There are many tempting-looking meats already cooked,
or they might be tempting if the thought of the Chinamen
did not spoil it all.
Later: We have had our dinner, and I think that we
shall go out on the river in a boat to see the illuminations.
It is a festival day here, and the air is full of noise. Fire
crackers are everywhere, also bells and tin pans, so you
can imagine the bedlam. My head is aching with all the
seeing and hearing. Canton, Friday Evening, October 4, 1895.
We have been out with Mr. S  the whole day shop-
ing. This is the finest place, except Kyoto, that we have
found for stores; they are simply fascinating. The ivory

124 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
is so tempting and so' cheap, compared with prices at home,
that I just have to keep my eyes shut when I go where the
pretty toilet articles are. O, dear! I want everything I see!
We were busy until after three in the stores, and then went
home with Mr. S  for tiffin and rest. He is such a dear
old man, and has been sO' kind to us. Our guide is rather
taken aback, for we slipped off without his knowing where
we were going this morning. William took him off sight
seeing, and did not meet us until luncheon.
Saturday, October 5, 1895.
We are on the way back to Hongkong, and are making
the trip this time at night. Just at present Isabel and I are
in our stateroom ready for bed, and have just discovered
that there is no upper sheet, much to her disgust. I suppose
it is the fashion out here.
This morning we spent on the river in a little house
boat. We crossed the river to see the house and garden
of one of the wealthiest families in Canton, then to a factory,
where some beautiful matting was being made, and after
ward to another garden. We were tired enough to rest this
afternoon, for we have spent a very busy three days.
The other half of the occupants of this stateroom wishes
I would stop I know — so here goes the light, and good-night.
Hongkong, China, Sunday, October 6, 1895.
We got in last night about midnight, but remained on
board until time for breakfast, then came to the hotel. After
freshening up, we all attended service at the Cathedral,
where we heard some very good music.
This afternoon we found that we might have to leave
to-morrow night. That meant work, so we have been busy
filling two camphor-wood chests. Papa and William are
still at it, though the latter is very tired. Such a quantity
of things as accumulate!

HONGKONG. 125
Monday, October 7, 1895.
We are still in Hongkong, though we expected to get
off to-night, and we now leave for Bangkok, Siam, on Friday
morning. We have been busy getting our photographs off
and packing our boxes and seeing them safely on board
the steamer. Poor Papa is tired out, for he has been more
than rushing around, and we shall all be glad of a little rest.
Our old steamship, Coptic, is in port, and looks like an old
friend. Hongkong, Wednesday, October 9, 1895.
This is my birthday, and it has been such a nice one.
It is bright and balmy out of doors, and I have been very
happy. This moming early I opened the package from you,
that I have been carrying for so long, and wondering about.
Thank you very much. I received a beautiful set of toilet
articles in silver from Mamma and Papa; they are lovely.
The design is sprays of bamboo on a frosted background.
Yesterday we were in a large curio store for a long
time — a branch of a Yokohama firm. In the afternoon we
met a pleasant family from Toledo — Mr. and Mrs. S 
and son and Mr. S  's sister, Mrs. H  , from Chicago.
They are going around the world, too, but are taking it
faster than we, and will reach home in March. They know
a number of people that we do, both in Toledo and Chicago.
There are several other Americans here now, but we have
not gotten^ acquainted with any of them. William has gone
off to see Macao, a Franco-Chinese place near by. We
wish he were here to meet Mr. S  .
Thursday, October 10, 1895.
We are all packed and expected to leave to-morrow, but
now, at the last moment, find that the steamer does not go
to Bangkok, but has had orders to sail for Singapore direct.
Is it not provoking? Of course, these are not regular pas
senger steamers, so we have to depend upon what freight

126 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
they carry, I suppose. Our plan at present is to go up the
coast to Swatow, then retrace our steps and go to Bangkok.
It will probably take us nine or ten days to reach our desti
nation, but the prospect is that the sea will be smooth, as
the monsoon has set in, so it will not be very bad. We
have been rearranging our trunks, for they do get so upset
when one has to use them as a bureau every time he unpacks.
William came back to-day, and says he has had a very good
time. This afternoon Mamma, Isabel and myself went to
make a call on the "Peak," but failed to find the house we
were looking for. The coolies are so stupid, and we found
no one who could speak English. We were taken to a
house where a lawn party seemed to be in progress, but
we soon got away from there, and decided not to make our
call. However, we had a very good time, for the air was
so sweet and fresh and the views very fine. There was a
hazy light over everything, which made it particularly lovely,
I think that Hongkong might be a very pleasant place in
which to live if one's home were on the "Peak,"
Hongkong, Friday, October ii, 1895,
I am so tired to-night, for we have had a long walk
this afternoon. In the morning we went to "Happy Valley,"
where the cemeteries of Hongkong are situated and also the
race-course. We had been there before, but it is such a fasci
nating drive along the level of the shore to this sheltered
valley, surrounded by high hills. It is shaped like a horse
shoe, with the course in the center and burying-grounds
around; rather a queer combination. Then we came home
and had a nice quiet time sewing on our piazza. This after
noon we called on our consul, and met two very pretty
Southern girls — a Miss S  and a Miss H  , the
daughter and niece of the consul. They have invited us to
go on a yachting excursion around the island to-morrow.
After we left we walked through the governor's garden,
which is very beautifully situated on the hillside and filled
with lovely plants and trees. From there we again ascended

HONGKONG. 127
to the "Peak," to try once more and make that call on
Mrs. B  . This time we found the house, but she was out.
We were so sorry, for we were tired and there were some
delicious-looking little cakes on the tea-table. I am going
to bed now, so good-night. Hongkong, Saturday, October 12, 1895.
I must close this, for we sail early to-morrow morning.
We rather dread it, for it is going to be a long journey,
and we shall not reach Bangkok before a week from Mon
day or Tuesday.
We have been very busy visiting all day long. The
S  s came back from Canton, and we sat in the reception-
room talking with them until eleven this morning. We like
young Mr. S  very much. He is about William's age and
a typical college fellow. Before tiffin we went to the museum
to see a reception given to. the Chinese ladies. At two in
the afternoon Mr. H  called for us and we went on board
the little steam launch. There was a very social party, and
all Americans; some young ladies and men, and one very
nice married couple. We started out very smoothly, and
after a while had tea and cakes served. The scenery was
lovely, with the bright sunshine bathing the rocky coasts and
sparkling blue water. After we had gone around to the
other side of the island the waves began to be quite high.
We were really out at sea, and at one time I think that
some of the gentlemen felt a little fearful for us, as the water
dashed over the bows of the boat, so that a sail had to be
stretched in front to keep us from swamping. We got quite
wet even then, but enjoyed the excitement, as we did not
realize the danger. At last we rounded the point and got
into smooth waters and reached Hongkong in safety. It
was really a very beautiful ride, but I do not believe that
Mr. H  will take it again in so small a boat.
We have said good-night to all our friends here, and
now I must close this long letter, only to begin another one
to-morrow.

CHAPTER VIII.
Steamer Phrachulachlomklaw, Swatow Harbor, China,
Monday Morning, October 14, 1895.
It was too rough all day yesterday to write. We all
felt a little uncomfortable, but poor Papa suffered the most
of any of us. The sea was rough, and we were going right
against the northeast monsoon. Going back the wind will be
with us, so we shall have it comparatively smooth. We are
the only passengers on board, and are very cozy. The cap
tain is a young Englishman, whose wife lives in Hongkong,
and has been most pleasant and kind.
Swatow looks very pretty from the steamer, but I believe
there is nothing in particular tO' see. The others talk of
going ashore this morning, but Isabel and I think that we
shall remain quietly on board. The harbor is quite land
locked, and we can see a number of pretty homes of the
missionaries and some other European houses on the south
shore, but the foreign population is small here. The country
is not very hilly, and I believe is quite fertile.
Swatow Harbor,
Tuesday Morning, October 15, 1895.
This is a beautiful and bright day, just cool enough to
be enjoyable. Yesterday we were busy unloading and load
ing, and are still at it this moming. We are much enter
tained by the antics of a little monkey that is chained upon
the upper deck; it is such a cunning little thing, but
dirty. I am glad we do not own' one. Mamma is just as
128

CHINA SEA. 129
fond of feeding it as she is all pets. This morning we spent
some time in watching the monkey pick up grains of sugar
which were scattered on the deck for her. There is a large
black "chow" dog on board also, and the two are great
friends. The "chow" dogs are a Chinese breed, and come
principally from Canton. They are a little like collies, but
with shorter bodies. The most peculiar thing about them is
that their tongues are black. The Chinese are said to fatten
and eat these dogs. I suppose it is true, and I cannot see
why they would not be as good meat as pigs. China Sea,
Wednesday Afternoon, October i6, 1895.
We are rolling away at a good pace, having left Swatow
at sundown yesterday, and as night came on the Chinese
coast gradually disappeared. This morning a few junks
could be seen which had come out from Hongkong for
fishing. At present there is not a sign of life anywhere, only
the blue, white-flecked waves. I have been reading diligently
all day. The air is soft and warm, and as we are going with
the wind we feel scarcely a breeze, but it will be very hot
presently. The boat rolls a good deal, but we have become
accustomed to it. I do not like being on the water though,
and never shall, Thursday Afternoon, October 17, 1895.
We are off the coast of Cochin-China, though no land is
in sight ; the sea is as smooth as possible, with a deep under-
swell. We have all become good sailors now, and eat more
heartily than is good for us. We have just had our afternoon
tea and some delicious hot pound cake, with plenty of citron
and currants in it.
Mamma and I are both writing in the little cabin which
opens off the lower deck. Our staterooms open from this
room, which is our dining-room as well. The deck on which
9

130 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
we usually sit is overhead, and is open on all sides and shaded
by heavy awnings. We are very comfortable on board ; the
staterooms are rather small and stuffy, but they have fairly
good windows opening onto the deck, so we manage to get
through the nights. We are dressed in as thin clothing as
possible now, for the weather is growing warm very fast.
I have been busy drawing threads in some "grass cloth"
to-day for a bureau scarf. They make this linen in Canton,
and it is so pretty. Friday Afternoon, October i8, 1895.
A little hotter to-day, and that is all that is new. The
sun is bright, and the sea like indigo, with hardly a whitecap ;
it is not like glass, however. Land is in sight to our right —
the dim outline of a rocky coast, which is, I suppose, Cochin-
China. I have been busily reading and sewing during the
day. There is no opportunity for exercise on our small deck,
the largest stretch of deck now, amidships, being given up
to our Chinese fellow-passengers. There are about three
hundred coolies aboard, and they keep up a constant talking
the whole time. Friday Afternoon, October 19, 1895.
Our thoughts are with our dear ones at home to-day,
more than usual. We are worrying a little about our mail,
for it has become mixed with the changing of directions from
Yokohama to London; at least, we fear it will be, but we
must not "cross the bridge until we come to it." Our Chi
cago Sunday Inter Oceans are a great "godsend" to us, and
we read every word of them. There is a number of good
novels on board, too, which help to pass the time.
Gulf of Siam,
Sunday Morning, October 20, 1895.
We are in the Gulf of Siam now, and our course is north
east, the coast being dimly visible to the east now and then.

BANGKOK. 131
but it is only a low-lying island at best, so it is not very satis
fying. I must write some letters to-day, but we have become
so lazy that writing is quite a task. Will made a grand
effort yesterday and said that he was going to "write up"
his diary. I do not know how much he did. Isabel says
it does not pay, and she is not going to write any more,
for a while at least. Monday Morning, October 21, 1895.
This is the last day of our long journey, and we are
so rejoiced. The sea is like a millpond, although there is
quite a breeze from the north which ripples it a little. I have
just finished my book, "Paul Patoff," by Crawford, and
have enjoyed it very much. I must soon try and get our
things ready for going ashore. It is astonishing how many
packages are accumulated, for all we try tO' have as few
as possible, our last addition being a white pigskin box,
which is really a small trunk. Our trunks are so full, too,
although we sent all that we could spare in the boxes from
Hongkong. Papa is getting very anxious to be at home,
and I can see that all feel like pushing on upon our journey
as fast as possible. This trip is doing us much good, though.
Oriental Hotel, Bangkok, Siam,
Tuesday, October 22, 1895.
We are really here after a long journey, reaching the
bar about nine o'clock last evening, but the tide was low and
we could not go over into the river. The sea was like a
huge opal at sunset, as smooth as glass, and reflecting the
beautiful rainbow tints of the sky, the air cool and delightful,
with a soft breeze from the northeast. At four this morning
our anchors were up and we started over the bar, but I
did not go on deck until about seven. By that time the river
had become somewhat narrower, and we could see the low
banks to good advantage. They presented one mass of
green, tropical foliage — a typical jungle. Palms of all kinds

132 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
reared their heads, while feather bamboo, live oak, mango
and orange filled in the masses, plants of all sorts and kinds
bound together with huge trailing vines. The native huts
were nestled everywhere, their thatched, pointed roofs peep
ing out from the trees. Tiny canoes hurried here and there
over the still waters of the river. One of the first things to
attract our attention as we reached the city was a beautiful
little island amidstream, with a white, cone-like building
upon it in its setting of green. This was a temple, we
learned later. As we neared the city the large boats became
numerous, and finally the European bouses began to appear
on the right bank, and at last we were moored in front of
a large building, with a cool-looking piazza in front and
shaded by trees. It was the hotel.
Through the kindness of our minister, Mr. Barrett, who
learned in some way of our arrival, we secured the use of a
small vacant house across the street from the hotel, going
to the main building for our meals.
The people here at Bangkok are from all quarters of
the Orient — Chinese, who are very numerous, Malays,
Hindoos and others, whom I can hardly tell where they
came from. The Siamese are small of stature, very dark,
with heavy short hair. They are like the Malays, I suppose.
They are not a handsome race, as far as I can judge. Their
costume consists of a sort of skirt, with one end arranged so
that it passes between the legs, and so forms an apology
for trousers. The women dress the same, only that they have
another piece of cloth which they wind around under the
arms, leaving the shoulders and arms bare. The children
are not bothered with clothes, and go barefooted and have
closely-cropped hair. The people are fond of gay colors
and use them artistically. The city is right in a jungle,
even the foreign part. There are streets, to be sure, and
even an electric railway, but the luxuriant growth is every
where. The houses of the natives are all made of bamboo
or palm branches, except some belonging to the wealthy
class and the Chinese, which are of wood.

BANGKOK. 133
This afternoon we have been to the museum, a very
beautiful temple and to a place where they expose dead
bodies to the vultures, a little the same as is done in Bombay
by the Parsees, only in this case the flesh is first cut off from
the bones by the priests, and the bones are burned. It is
all open for inspection, and we saw the smoldering fires and
the hundreds of birds perched upon the roofs of the temples
around about. It was a horrible sight. We visited what is
called the "Beautiful Temple," and it was the finest thing in
that line that we have seen at all anywhere. The style of
architecture is somewhat like the Chinese, with the curved
roof; but it has in addition beautiful, slender and graceful
spires. These are covered with tiles of brilliant colors and
designs, and in some of the more modern portions fairly
ablaze with gilding. Many of the buildings are in ruins, or
falling into decay, for it is very ancient. We could see over
the walls into the adjoining palace, where the same effect
was visible, only everything was more gorgeously new.
Bangkok, Siam,
Wednesday, October 2^, 1895.
I have only time to add a few lines of good-bye, for the
mail closes soon. We have been to the palace and have
seen some real white elephants. The other objects of interest
were so numerous and wonderfully beautiful that I shall have
to leave them for my next letter. I shall send another letter
from here before we leave, which will be about Sunday.
We are very well and are enjoying Bangkok more than
any other place we have found. Bangkok, Siam,
Thursday, October 24, 1895.
A letter went off to you in a hurry yesterday tO' catch
a steamer sailing from Hongkong. I intended writing again
last night, but company prevented. Now I am sitting upon

134 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
my little white-draped bed, with the soft early morning light
filling the room; the sun is not up. The dear little birds
are twittering and singing, the crows are flying overhead,
cawing their cries, and even the cocks are crowing their early
morning hymns. Through the great w^indowless openings
opposite my bed I can see some beautiful rosy clouds ; there
are no windows to many of the houses here, only wooden
shutters. But to go back: After I wrote you on Tuesday
night we were sitting quietly on the piazza of our little
"palace" when Papa came over from the hotel with Mr.
Barrett, our minister here in Bangkok, who invited us to
dinner, and almost before we knew what had happened we
had been moved over to his house and were comfortably
seated on the wide piazza of the United States legation in
Siam. Mr. Barrett is a bachelor of about thirty, a pleasant-
looking gentleman and very good company. We stayed
with him until quite late that night, and had such a good
time. Yesterday moming another gentleman, a Dr. H  ,
called early, bringing his servant with him, whose services
he offered to us to act as guide around Bangkok. Dr.
H  has lived here for many years, and has held the
position of court physician, and therefore has a great deal
of influence in getting favors granted. We obtained a car
riage and drove to the palace. That is really a city in itself,
for when once inside the walls palace upon palace is opened
before one. The lower stories are quite European in effect,
but the roofs purely Siamese, with their points and curious
curves. These roofs are incrusted with tiles and bits of
porcelain, put on in exquisite raised patterns of flowers.
We visited the white elephants in their stalls; then had a
peep through a great gateway at the beautiful palace of the
king, where no stranger is ever allowed. We were inside
the palace grounds, you know, but the inner house with its
lawns and gardens, the real home of the king and queen and
their children, we were not allowed to enter. The house is

BANGKOK. 135
like a European palace, excepting the roof. From there we
went to the Royal Temple, also inside of the walls. Pass
ing through a gate, we entered a colonnade with a double
row of pillars on one side and on the other a wall covered
with a beautiful fresco. The painting was really wonderful,
though the perspective was a long way out, of course, to
our ideas. The colonnades extend all around the temple
court and the paintings illustrate the ancient history of the
Siamese. You must understand that these temples do not
consist of one simple building, but many clustered together,
with paved courts and walks between them. How can I tell
you about this one, so that you can see with my eyes? The
walls of the principal building of this temple, inside and out,
looked in the sunlight like gold incrusted with diamonds,
emeralds and sapphires from base to the tiniest peak. An
other one of the pagodas was entirely covered with real gold-
leaf, quite thickly laid on, too. One of the gateways looked
as though it was built of freshly picked flowers; they were
formed of bits of porcelain. In one of these temples is
enshrined what is called the emerald Buddha. The head is
supposed to be made of a single emerald and the body filled
with diamonds and other precious stones. We could just
see in the dim light the figure in its place high up on the
altar. All about the interior of the temple are scattered
costly gifts from different people, a curious mixture of
European articles, such as glass lamps, marble statues, mir
rors, vases, etcetera. There were great chains of real gold
and other pieces of jewelry studded with gems. In another
temple are kept the books of Buddha and other manuscript
on strips of palm leaves which are very ancient. It was a
most interesting place and I can only give you a dim idea
of its wonders.
From there we went to the zoo and then to see the larg
est reclining Buddha in the world. William measured the
feet, and says that this Buddha wears a number sixteen shoe.
It is a huge thing, built of masonry and covered with gold
lacquer, or something of that kind.

136 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
The afternoon Mr. Barrett spent with us. He joined us
while at tiffin, and about half-past three we took a little
launch and visited a beautiful pagoda up the river. I be
lieve this is the pagoda which is particularly associated with
Bangkok. It is very large, and we chmbed a part of the way
up, obtaining a good view of the city. We are going to a
better place to have a general view of this metropolis, so I
will describe it later. When we returned to the bank to take
the launch we found that it had departed, so we climbed into
a native sampan, or flat-bottomed rowboat, and went home
that way. It was a glorious evening, the setting sun tinting
all the clouds with intense color, which the waters of the
river reflected; the native houses along the bank, with the
waving foliage behind ; the tiny craft flying everywhere, and
the large boats moored for the night ; over all, the hazy, richly
tinted light and the large pagoda gleaming in the distance.
It was very beautiful.
Bangkok, Friday Morning, October 25, 1895.
We are going to rest a little to-day, as we are somewhat
tired. Yesterday morning we- visited some of the tiny pawn
shops which are very numerous here. There are no real
curio shops as in the other cities we have visited, and we
were hoping that we could find a few Siamese things worth
taking home. The Siamese make almost nothing ornamental,
so we were disappointed, though we did find a few curios.
This occupied the time until noon, and then we rested until
about three. Then Mr. Barrett and Dr. H  came for us in
the launch, and our party went up the river to an old temple.
I have forgotten to say that these temples are also called
Wats. I believe they are sort of monasteries as well. At
this Wat, Mamma, Isabel and I had our fortunes told, and
I think mine was especially good. I am going to take a
journey into a far country, the stones in my path are to turn
to gold, and I am not to have more than three wives at a

INTERIOR OF A WAT — liANGKOK.

BANGKOK. 137
time. That last is not very clear, is it? These fortunes are
all written on a large board, and one draws a stick with a
number on it to correspond to that on the board. It was all
in Siamese, of course; but we found a native boy to read it
aloud to us, and Dr. H  translated. From that Wat we
went a long way up the river to a large sawmill, to see an
elephant at work moving the logs. He was a huge beast,
and it seemed very little trouble for him to carry a log at
least from fifty to seventy-five feet long on his large tusks.
They took him to the river so that we could see him bathe.
It was a funny sight, and he seemed to enjoy it thoroughly.
On our way home we stopped at one of the mission schools,
where we met some very charming ladies ; had tea with them
and then went into the schoolroom and listened while pray
ers were being conducted. There were about fifty girls
of all ages, some of them very pretty little things. They sang
very well, too, the old familiar tunes set to their own lan
guage. It was dark and nearly dinner-time when we arrived
at home, Bangkok, Saturday Morning, October 26, 1895.
It is a gray moming, and it does not look as though the
sun was intending to get up at all, or perhaps it is so early
that I am ahead of time.
We had a pleasant day yesterday. In the moming Papa
and Mr. Barrett went to see some sawmills, so that the rest
of us took the time for a much-needed rest and to do a
few things at home that we had not had an opportunity
to attend to since our arrival. We selected some photo
graphs of the place for one thing, and did a little mending.
Mrs. H  also called in the morning. She is very delicate
and has not been able to come over before ; she seems very
nice indeed. She came especially to invite us to tea and ten
nis. At half-past four she sent her carriage for us and Mr.
Barrett also came with his dogcart, and in this way we were all
accommodated. We had tea soon after our arrival, then some

138 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Others came and we went out on the lawn for our games.
Dr. H  's house is very large, and I think he has some of
his patients with him. Isabel and I played with Mr. Barrett
and a Dr.McF  ,and I fear that the gentlemen had enough
of fun in watching our blunders, as I for one was a very poor
player, never having held a racket before in my life. Dr.
McF  is the son of a missionary who has been in Bang
kok for twenty years or more. Darkness came all too soon,
and we had to say our good-byes, driving home by way of the
clubhouse. This is a very nice building, with beautiful lawns
all about and every facility for games of all sorts. There
was only time to dress after reaching home, then we went to
the legation for dinner, where there were four guests beside
ourselves — Mrs. and Mr. McF  and their son and one of
the ladies from the mission we visited yesterday. The dinner
was a great success. We all being Americans made us quite
contented and congenial. After dinner we played whist, and
some of the others went down to the billiard-room. I do not
know what time we got home, but it must have been very
late. The sun is just beginning to peep through the mists, and
I imagine it is likely to be another hot day.
Later : I must finish, for the post is closing, but before
this goes I want to give you a general view of this beautiful
city of Bangkok which we saw from a large tower that we
climbed this morning. It was a large, square tower, so
packed around by earth that the foliage reached away up
its sides and vines were clinging everywhere. We came to
the top by a winding stairway inside of the tower, and a
most glorious view we had of the whole city and country
about. Not anything in detail could be seen because of the
dense foliage. The river we could dimly see through the
tree tops as it wound its silvery way. The sharp points of
the houses gave only a suggestion of habitation. The Wats
stood out boldly with their glittering pinnacles and high
towers, but that was all — mostly a waving plain of green,

BANGKOK. 139
with the distant sea to the southwest glistening in the sun
light. The country to the east showed fewer trees, but still
the same green, only lighter by reason of the rice fields. We
lingered about the gardens of the Wat after coming down
from the tower, for they were luxuriant and beautiful in their
tropical foliage and flowers, and we did not wish to leave.
Our time here is almost up, and our steamer goes to
morrow. We dislike to leave our kind friends, who have
given us such a happy time in this curious Eastern city. It
has seemed so homelike, though, in the midst of its strange
ness.

CHAPTER IX.
Steamer of Hecula, Gulf of Siam,
Sunday Night, October t.'j, 1895.
We have just finished our dinner. The others are on the
upper deck watching the bright moonlight. The sea is like
a sheet of silver, for there is scarcely a ripple. We have
been resting all day, sleeping most of the time, as we are
quite tired out from our unusual dissipation of the past
week. After I posted your letter yesterday, Mr, Barrett came to
the hotel and we went back with him to the legation, where
William took a picture of us in front of the house, to which
was added a whole family of dogs. We stayed until dark,
watching the sunset and looking at photographs, then Mr.
Barrett came back with us to dinner. Mr. McF  and Dr.
H  dropped in before we had finished, and we had a jolly
time, staying in the dining-room quite late. After that some
of us went to the club for a game of billiards, and then for a
long drive in the moonlight to see a deserted palace. It was
awfully weird looking about in that ghost-like place, with its
dark halls and unexpected doors. We were very tired when
at last our kind friends left us, and glad to get tO' bed, and it
was not much more than daybreak when we had to get up
again. Mr. Barrett and Dr. H  came to see us off, the lat
ter bringing a huge bunch of roses from his garden. It was so
hard to say good-bye, but it will not be very long before we
meet again, I trust, for the world is very small after all.
I am going on deck now, it is so hot down here in the
cabin. 140

SINGAPORE. 141
China Sea, Tuesday Morning, October 29, 1895.
We are so quiet on board that there seems absolutely
nothing to write about. The sea was like glass all day yes
terday, with a glorious sunset to finish, and we read and slept
most of the time on the upper deck. This morning there is
a long swell to the glassy sea ; I suppose because we have got
out of the Gulf and feel the effects somewhat of the Pacific
Ocean. The boat rolls dreadfully, so that some of the pas
sengers are ill, but we have become such old sailors now
that nothing disturbs us. It was seven months yesterday
since we left home. Wednesday Afternoon, October 30, 1895.
We hope to be in Singapore to-night about ten o'clock.
How glad we shall be. Each new port is just that much
gain. It has been a hot trip from Bangkok, but we have
rested. Papa and William have slept most of the time. Yes
terday and to-day we have been in sight of the coast, with its
wooded islands. Some of them were very pretty, as far as we
could see at the distance. The moonlight evenings have been
lovely, too. However, Singapore means our mail, and that is
a great attraction. Raffle's Hotel, Singapore,
Thursday Morning, October 31, 1895.
You see we are at our journey's end, and are glad
enough' to be here. It is early moming and Mamma is still
dressing, but I am ready for breakfast — had a lovely cold
shower bath, which has given me a keen appetite. We ar
rived last night about ten, as we expected. The sky was
somewhat cloudy, but the full moon made it almost Hke day
light. Then the twinkling lights in a semicircle around the
Bund came into sight, and we realized that we were actually
in one of the most important ports of the world. It seemed
a very interesting place as we saw it last night on the way
to the hotel. We found most comfortable rooms in the

142 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
great two-storied building, which is a long rambling place,
built with wide porticos all about to give shelter from the
heat. Outside of each room is a porch, or a kind of out
door sitting-room, from which opens the bedroom, and back
of this a washroom and bath. Our mail cannot be obtained
until ten, when the bank opens. We had a fearful thunder
storm last night. We do not leave until Tuesday or Wednes
day of next week, and are so glad to have this quiet rest —
we are tired of moving and there is really so little to see here
that we do not have to exert ourselves unless we wish.
Steamer riding is not a perfect rest ; for one thing the places
are so small, and then there is the constant motion of the
boat. Singapore, Friday, November i, 1895.
It is very hot and close and I think we are going to
have a storm. Yesterday afternoon we had such a nice drive,
first to the museum, which is very good for a place of this
kind, then to the Botanical Gardens and to the Reservoir.
The roadways are one of the most beautiful things here, to
my notion. The soil is of a rich dark red. These roadways
are broad and beautifully kept, and dense foliage everywhere
is allowed to grow. Of course, everything is kept in place
here, as this is an English colony. There are all kinds of
people, dark Malays, Chinese, Hindoos and many others that
I cannot distinguish, probably coming from the islands to
the south. One of the picturesque sights that I noticed
was the loads of green grass tied into bundles and loaded
into a two-wheeled cart drawn by two creamy oxen. On
top of the load and in marked contrast to the green were
two coal-black Malays in their bright-colored clothes and
turbans; all this set in a frame of green, with the dark red
road in the foreground. There are all kinds of fruits here, at
least I suppose so, for we see the trees, but they never give
us much variety at the hotel. We have pomelo (or grape-
fmit) until we are tired, though this fruit is particularly nice

SINGAPORE. 143
here, sweeter and more juicy than with us, and is said to be
very wholesome. We are anxiously looking for the mango-
steen, but have not found it yet. It is a little out of season, I
believe. A very pleasant gentleman has just called, a Mr. L  .
He and Papa are talking about business. We expected that
we should leave to-morrow for Java, but now think we shall
not go until next week. We never know, though, what is
going to happen the next minute.
Singapore, Sunday Morning, November 3, 1895.
Where do you think we went yesterday? To the corona
tion of the Sultan of Johore. We did not have an official
invitation, but for all that we saw everything that there was
to be seen, even better than some of the guests. But to be
gin at the beginning. We went with some English people,
friends of Mr. L  , a Mr. and Mrs. M  and Mr. M  .
They were very pleasant people. First we drove across the
island on which Singapore is situated tO' the strait that sepa
rates it from the point of the mainland, where the little king
dom of Johore lies. It was a lovely day, with a fresh cool
breeze. The jungles on either side of the road looked cool
and inviting, with their deep shadows. About noon we
reached the place where we were to cross over to the main
land. There we went aboard a little steam launch, and after a
rather rough passage of perhaps a mile landed on the coast
of Johore, where we went to the home of a friend of the
M  s to have our luncheon. We had our own food with
us, but were very glad to have the use of a table and a cool
room in which to eat. We had a nice rest and a good deal
of fun preparing our edibles. A little before two we started
for the town about a mile away. We could only secure one
jinrikisha, but that was a double one, so Mamma and Mrs.
M  got into it — the rest of us walked. The road was broad
and well-kept, with the channel on one side and the jungle
on the other, and we could not help thinking of the possi-

144 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
bility of some wild beast springing out upon us from the
tangle of foliage; there are so few inhabitants in this part
of the country; there are only a few houses in all the land.
Johore is larger in area than the United Kingdom, but it is
composed principally of jungle. The Sultan himself spends
the most of his time in Singapore, though there is a large
palace in Johore. The country's chief wealth is in tin.
When we reached the landing in front of the palace the
Indian troops, belonging to the English, were all drawn up
in line. They made a striking picture as they stood amidst
the green foliage in their white uniforms and red turbans
and the bright sunshine bringing out the colors. These men
are called Sikhs, and are very large in physique and come
from the northern part of India. They are almost black, and
wear a full, closely-cropped beard.
Presently the governor of the Straits Settlements arrived.
He was gorgeously arrayed, white knickerbockers, white
silk stockings with white garters below the knees and dia
mond buckles. His cutaway coat of black was covered with
gold embroidery, and his black hat had a black plume. A
huge black umbrella trimmed with gold was borne by a
bearer in white. Accompanying the governor were two or
three ladies and gentlemen. His wife. Lady Mitchel, wore a
very dainty white organdy with lavender flowers scattered
here and there and trimmed with lavender bows. A little
black and gold bonnet and a white parasol covered with
black lace, completed her costume.
After they had passed and the Sikhs had marched off,
the crowd dispersed, and we consulted together as to what
to do next. We decided to follow the crowd, which meant
to ascend the flight of steps leading to a building near the
palace. When we got to the top terrace we saw a beautiful
pagoda which had been erected temporarily on the lawn, of
yellow and white cloth, where some ceremony was evidently
going on. We entered the building which we had seen from
below. There we found a number of long tables spread with

SINGAPORE. 145
refreshments, and a great many Europeans and Orientals
who had evidently been invited to witness the ceremonies.
We hardly wanted to stay, clad as we were in our ordinary
attire, but the people we were with seemed to think it was
all right, so we went on. We soon learned that the yellow
and white pavilion was the place where the Sultan and his
wife were to bathe before the coronation. No one went
there except the highest officials, but we could see a great
deal of what went on, for the pavilion was a most open affair.
Presently the Sultan and Sultana arrived in their carriage,
amidst the booming of twenty-one cannon. We met two or
three gentlemen of rank, one a Scotchman, Mr. M  ,
who is a Dado or Lord of the Court of Johore, and through
his kindness we saw all the rest of the ceremonies. After
the bathing, we crossed the lawn tO' the palace. In the rooms
on the lower floor of this building were spread tables for
the European guests. We partook of some lemonade and
cakes, after which Mr. M  led us through to a small din
ing-room, where the table was laid for a banquet to be given
to the Sultana later in the day. We were the only ones al
lowed in this room except those who were to partake of the
banquet. The table was laid for about twenty-five, I should
think, and was very gorgeous, as most of the service was of
solid gold. The plates were of Dresden porcelain, dark blue
and gold. In the center of the table was a large golden vase
filled with flowers and ferns. The chairs were all gilded, too.
From this room we went around to the front of the palace
to the grand staircase, and ascended to the large hall, where
the coronation was to take place. Down at the further end
stood the dais with the golden thrones. The light came
from windows near the lofty ceiling, and under these were
galleries around the room. Flags were used in decorating.
Down the center of this room we went, amidst all the dignita
ries, to a little room at the left of the dais, where the Eu
ropean ladies, all in their pretty costumes, were assembled.
The Malay ladies were behind a latticework screen in the gal-
10

146 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
lery above. We then went into an adjoining room to see
the crowns, which were on velvet cushions. They were one
mass of gems, of course, principally diamonds. The Sultan's
was on a high, dark blue velvet cap and the Sultana's simply
the circlet for the head.
In the throne-room were assembled all the high digni
taries, in their gorgeous costumes covered with gold lace.
We had a good position for seeing the ceremonies, except
that it was a little back of the throne. We could almost have
touched their robes, we were so near. We had to wait some
time, however, but at last the forerunner appeared, bearing
a staff of honor — all of gold inlaid with gems. Then ap
peared their royal highnesses — the Sultan on one side of the
dais and the Sultana on the other, approaching from behind.
The Sultan was on our side. He wore a rich uniform^ and
from his shoulders hung a heavy mantle of white satin lined
with dark blue velvet, and borne by four pages, dressed in
white. The Sultana wore a dark blue velvet gown — I pre
sume it was the royal purple that sovereigns are supposed to
use, but this looked like a beautiful rich dark blue. On the
Sultan's head rested a high velvet cap, encircled by a small
diamond crown. He is a very large man for a Malay, has a
smooth face, and is quite fine looking ; he is only twenty-one
years of age. She is a tiny creature, and very dark. She
wore a crown of diamonds not unlike her new one. The
edge of her rich flowing sleeves was incrusted with gems for
about an inch in width. Her fingers were a blaze of light,
and she also wore innumerable necklaces and bracelets.
From under her crown flowed a thin veil. Back of her chair
were her women, some in black and dark blue, and others
in yellow, with beautiful veils covering their heads, sparkling
with golden spangles. Behind the dais stood three men hold
ing the most beautiful swords of gold, with gems incmsting
both the hilts and scabbards.
All the time during the ceremonies, and while the rep
resentatives of the different countries were presenting their

SINGAPORE. 147
congratulations, the cannon were booming out of doors. It
was nearly sunset when at last everything was over and we
stood at the wharf ready to take the launch. The sunset
was a fitting finish to all the grandeur we had just seen, with
tints of pink, blue and yellow shedding a soft light over the
channel. In the east the full moon was rising to take its
place as soon as the King of Day was done. It was a lovely
drive that we had through the dark forest homeward, the
bright moonbeams making the shadows seem blacker. We
had no dinner except some dry bread, cheese and some soda-
water which we ate and drank on the road, and we were very
tired. But it will be a day to remember always, and one that
we shall probably never again see its equal. Tired enough
we were when ten o'clock saw us once more in our rooms,
and it was not long before we were in bed.
Singapore, Monday Morning, November 4, 1895.
The weather is very warm this morning, the hottest we
have had since we came, which is saying a good deal. The
others have been out, but I have been staying at home read
ing. We are quite rested after our trip on Saturday; re
mained in the hotel until yesterday, when Mr. L  sent his
carriage and we drove to see Mrs. M  , where we had tea
and then went to church at five. Papa, William and some
of the gentlemen went to visit a preserving factory of some
kind, and had a pleasant day.
Later : This letter will have to go to-day, as we leave for
Java to-morrow morning, when we shall be gone from Singa
pore about two weeks. After our return we shall probably go
to Rangoon, Burmah, before we go to India. It will seem
very good to be on a continent again, where we can catch a
train and move more rapidly when we wish to do so. It is
rather slow waiting for boats to sail, for they are so uncertain
here in the East.

CHAPTER X.
Steamship Governor-General My er, en route to Batavia, Java,
Tuesday Evening, November 5, 1895.
We are once more on the water. This time we have a
very nice Dutch steamer with good airy cabins, a large deck
and a good table, the best we have had for months. As usual
we are the only passengers, but we reach our destination so
soon that it does not matter very much. We came on board
about ten-thirty a. m., but our boat did not leave until the
middle of the afternoon. Mr. M  and a friend came to see
us off, and they were caught in a dreadful rainstorm on their
way back to the shore in an open boat. The rain must have
soaked through their clothing, and we felt a little anxious,
for Mr. M  is far from being strong.
We do so enjoy the walks on deck, which is well pro
tected from the sun, and it does seem good to be able to move
about with no fear of the heat. It is delightfully cool on
deck to-night; the moon is almost full and is so beautiful,
sailing among the silvery clouds, sending a broad, shining
track across the glassy channel. We can see land on both
sides of us, with twinkling lights here and there ; it seems like
being on a river, as there are no swells. I think we shall
have a very pleasant trip down to the flowery island of Java.
My eyes are getting full of sand, so I will not write any
more to-night. Our cabins look so sweet and clean that I
know we shall sleep well in our narrow bunks.
Java Sea, Wednesday Evening, November 6, 1895.
A heavy thunderstorm has just come up suddenly, as it
often does in the tropics, and our party has come down into
148

JAVA. ' 149
the large, well-lighted cabin. It is only a little after six, and
almost an hour before dinner will be served.
This has been a very quiet day, spent comfortably on
deck, and the sea has been calm. I have been reading "The
Wandering Jew," the Sunday Inter Ocean and Murray's
"Guide to India," so you see I have been well employed. I
think the storm is over, and the air coming down through
the skylights seems much cooler; it has been very sultry all
day. We have had the long, low coast of Sumatra on our
right since noon, but it does not look at all inviting. The
coast on the left is more broken and quite picturesque. I
think it is the island of Banca. Hotel des Indes, Batavia, Java,
Friday Morning, November 8, 1895.
It is after breakfast, and we are waiting to see what is
to be done to-day. Our boat arrived last evening a little
before seven. All day yesterday we were crossing the Java
Sea, and a rough place we found it, too; we were all sea
sick except Mamma. About two or three the sea became
more calm, and a number of small wooded islands appeared.
These continued, until at last about sunset a dim outline of
higher lands could be seen in the southwest, which proved to
be the distant mountain peaks of Java. It was too dark to
see any of the beauties of the island, even after we landed.
Our steamer went to a dock with large warehouses upon it,
which made the place look quite civilized, and we could
scarcely believe that we were in such an out-of-the-way
part of the world as Java. The railway station was on the
wharf, but we arrived just in time to see the seven o'clock
train leave; then we were obliged to wait an hour, but at
last were safely landed in Batavia, after a half hour's ride
by train, and another long ride by carriage to our hotel ; we
were glad enough for anything by that time. The dinner
which we ordered in our rooms was not a success, but our
beds, when at last they were ready for us after a time of

150 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
confusion, were clean and comfortable, and we were soon
fast asleep. I have not slept so well for a long time. The
hotel is very comfortable indeed. It is mostly a one-storied
structure, covering a good deal of ground, and there are
trees and flowers all about. I think we are going to have a
very good time here. Batavia is not a pretty place, but as
soon as we are among the mountains the scenery will be
fine. Miss O  and Miss W  , the young ladies who
were with Bishop W  's party, are here somewhere, and I
am wondering if we shall meet them.
Later, six p. m. : We have just come from a long drive
through the best part of town ; it is very interesting in some
parts, after all. The finest of the residences are around a
large open square, called "Waterloo Plain." Most of the
houses are low, with high roofs sloping down to a wide
piazza; indeed, the piazza is fully half of the house. The
buildings are of white stucco, and look particularly cool in
among the heavy greenery which, of course, surrounds them.
The people are quite picturesque. They wear cotton,
stamped to look like Persian shawls, made into trousers for
the men and a kind of skirt for the women. Over the skirt
the women wear a loose, white sacque, which hangs below
the knees. The men wear small turbans. The Europeans,
who are mostly Dutch, also wear these costumes during the
morning hours, or until about four in the afternoon. I can
not say that I admire this very much, as the Dutch as a
rule are not slender and graceful. The men look particularly
grotesque in their trousers of many colors.
Another curious feature here is the food ; this is Dutch
also, and such queer mixtures ! All the meats and vegetables
are served together on a single plate, and one is expected
to make a grand compound with rice and curry combined,
and this is called "Rice Table," which is the noon meal.
Some of the dishes are very good, and everything is scrupu
lously clean, which is the greatest blessing, and the cofl'ee is
delicious. Heretofore the beverage called coffee was made

.r r

¦-I >

JAVA. 151
from burnt beans or peas, I think; anything but the real cof
fee berry. To-morrow, early, we start for the mountains.
Sindanglaya, Java, Sunday Morning, November lo, 1895.
I do not suppose that you could find this place, except
on an enlarged map of the island. It is very beautiful here
among the mountain peaks, with the dense, green foliage
everywhere. We are so high, however, that the air is quite
cool, and for the first time in two months we have wanted
heavier covers upon the beds at night.
Yesterday between six and seven in the moming we left
Batavia, not waiting for breakfast, having only early coffee.
The train crossed the plain on which Batavia lies and gently
ascended to the foot of the mountains. There we stopped
at a very pretty town called Buitenzorg, where we had
breakfast. The hotel was delightfully clean, and from the
back porch a magnificent view could be had of the mountains,
with a rushing torrent and billowy foliage in the foreground.
We amused ourselves for some time watching the natives
bathing in a clean pool just below our place of observation.
The Botanical Gardens of Buitenzorg are some of the finest
in the world, and we spent a delightful hour before tiffin
wandering through the cool paths. Such beautiful fern and
orchid houses ! — and the long avenues with their overhang
ing trees and wide stretches of sunlit lawns were most lovely.
Everything was in fine cultivation, and exquisitely neat.
There was a pretty pond with an island in its center covered
with bright flowers. The governor of Java has a beautiful
home in this garden.
After tiffin we drove over here to Sindanglaya. The
little dogcart-like vehicles are peculiar to Java ; they seat four
persons, with the seats either back to back or both facing
forward ; they have only two wheels, and are drawn by three
horses abreast. The ride was very pleasant indeed through
the terraced hills, where rice was growing in great quantities.

152 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
After a time the foliage became thicker, and there were fewer
signs of cultivation. Majestic palms waved their heads over
all kinds of tropical growth, banana, coffee, mango, bread
fruit and many varieties of creeping vines and flowering
shrubs. At one place there were great trees of the moon-
flower, whose huge white bells filled the air with sweetness.
It was a very hard climb of about three hours, when we
reached the summit of the pass. The air was quite cool then,
and we were glad of our wraps. As we descended the rain-
clouds broke upon us, and as the night set in we began to
long for the hotel. At last we reached a civilized place, and
a huge rambling building, which was the hotel. It is in
reality a Sanitarium, maintained at government expense, and
is a very good place in which to stay ; the air is so cool and
pure and sweet, and the table good. We are undecided as
to whether we shall remain here a while or not ; we may go
on to-day. Papa rather wants to do so, I think.
Monday Morning.
We remained here after all, and are having a nice rest in
this beautiful spot. We had quite a discussion, for if we
stayed it meant two weeks in Java instead of one, but it is
well worth our time. Miss O  and Miss W  arrived in
the afternoon yesterday; they will remain here a few days
and then go on to Singapore and Ceylon on Friday ; it must
take a good deal of courage for those two girls to travel
about quite alone.
Isabel and I were up by seven this morning, which is
an early hour for travelers; had our coffee and went for a
walk before breakfast. The air was delightful and there were
quantities of lovely roses in the garden, which is a rare thing
in the tropics, as it is usually too hot for them, I think. The
mountains were enveloped in clouds. We are told that there
are volcanoes all about us, though we see no signs of smoke.
In about an hour's time we start down into the valley,
where we shall catch a train to take us once more on our
way. We are going to be very busy from how on.

s- ¦¦%;

1 JAVA. 153
Tassak Malaja, Java,
Monday Evening, November ii, 1895.
We are very tired to-night, so only a few words before
I get into my little bed. We left at ten and drove to the
station, a distance of several miles, which took an hour or
more; then we were on the train until seven this evening —
these trains are so slow.
Mamma says that she thinks the scenery to-day has
been the finest that we have seen, and it certainly has been
lovely. Our way was through mountains, cultivated valleys
and palm-covered hills, with green everywhere in its most
graceful forms. The flowers, too, were brilliant and beautiful.
This place is at the end of to-day's trip, and we have
found a very comfortable hotel, with an unpronounceable
name. One of the peculiarities of Java is that the trains do not
run at night ; the reason is (so they say) that the natives can
not keep awake and there might be danger of collisions.
Djokjokarta, Java, Tuesday, November 12, 1895.
We have been on the trains since eight o'clock this
morning, arriving here at six-thirty — pretty well tired out, as
you can imagine, from our cramped quarters. The scenery
has been very fine over the plains bounded by hills. The
jungles were particularly attractive, especially the clusters of
bamboos, which reached upward about a hundred feet into
the air, gently curving like a huge ostrich plume, with thef
delicate green against the clear blue sky; below these were
the darker shades of the palms and coarse jungle grass.
There has been little of especial interest to note during
the day. We got out of the train at noon for luncheon at a
station where they remained three-quarters of an hour. You
see no one is in a hurry here, though the trains start on time.
We are the only guests in this little hotel, except a Dutch
man who speaks English, the only person about who does.

154 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and he and Papa are carrying on a discussion over their cof
fee in the dining-room. The rest of us are on the broad, well-
lighted piazza in front, facing a pretty garden. We cannot
see much of its beauties to be sure, for there is no moon now.
Boro Budor, Java, Wednesday, November 13, 1895.
I suspect you know as little as I did a few days ago
about this old ruined temple, and still it is one of the oldest
and most celebrated places in this part of the world. There
is no town here whatever, only the huge pile of ruins, and our
tiny hotel, of about a dozen rooms, at its base. We had a
long drive this morning from Djokjokarta over the plain to
the foot of the mountains to where we now are.
The ruins consist of one temple built in the shape of a
pyramid. There are figures carved all over it, and innumer
able statues of Buddha, some as wizards and others under
huge stone bells; the architecture is Indian, as it was built
by the Hindoos at least two thousand years ago.
This is a nice, clean little hotel, and we have just finished
a good dinner. It is a much better hotel than the one we
had last night. Papa has just sent William for a cigar. I
wonder if it will make him sick, and we are having a good
laugh at him, for he does look so funny. You know he has
never smoked. We are out in the open room, or a kind of
piazza, and are as cozy as can be. Isabel is reading English
history, and Mamma "Pendennis." The crickets are hard at
work out of doors. Djokjokarta, Java,
Thursday Evening, November 14, 1895.
We are back again from the Boro Budor, and have had
a restful half day, which we greatly needed. The drive this
morning was very dusty most of the way, so our tiffin was
doubly welcome. Dinner is just over and we have been en
joying the music of a good band playing at a little distance.
There seems to be some kind of a celebration in progress, for
we hear firecrackers at intervals.

JAVA. 155
I wonder if I can give you any sort of a picture of the
native life along the roadway as we saw it to-day. The
roads are all very well kept here, are broad and, of course,
lined with a luxuriant growth of trees and shrubs. There
are huts scattered along almost anywhere, and a constant
stream of people in their gay-colored clothing, and numerous
carts. At intervals along the roadside there are covered
sheds where the passing teams can rest out of the heat of the
sun — this is the only place in which we have seen just such
an arrangement. Of course, there is always a cluster of
huts at this spot, and also booths for the sale of sweets,
fruits and the trifles which catch the native's eye. Sometimes
the jungles open out, and our way leads through the fields
of grain and rice. Everything is thoroughly cultivated here,
where there is any attempt at all, and we certainly think that
the Dutch make good rulers in this respect at least.
Soerabaya, Java,
Saturday Morning, November i6, 1895.
We arrived here last night at dark, after one of the
hardest, dustiest rides I have ever had by train; we were
completely tired out, and went to bed almost immediately.
It takes three days of steady travel to come by rail from
Batavia, which is at the other side of the island, as none of
the trains travel by night here. We have talked a little of
ascending Mount Bromo from here, but have about decided
to give it up. Mount Bromo is the most active volcano in
Java. We have passed a number of cones on our way
through the country, some of them smoking and others en
veloped in clouds ; some of these were green to the summit,
showing that it had been a long time since fire had issued
from their peaks. Every bit of available land is cultivated,
the hills being terraced to their summits, and even the plains,
so that water can run from one field to the other. Rice, you
know, has to grow in water in most cases, though there are
some varieties that do not require it. We have seen all sorts

156 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
of things growing, coffee, sugar-cane, all kinds of spices and
tropical fruits. We have found the mangosteen at last, that
Uncle Ralph talked so much about, and like it very well; it
tastes somewhat like an ice flavored with strawberries, I was
going to say, but I hardly think that is quite correct — it is
delicious, anyway.
I have been holding a reception while I write; my guests
consisting of half a dozen peddlers who are very anxious to
dispose of their wares. There is almost nothing to buy here,
as most of the goods are brought from Europe, Japan,
China or India, and are very cheap.
This town is one of the largest in Java, and is very
pretty ; we like it much better than Batavia, the little we have
seen of it. The hotel is good, and Mamma has a suite of
rooms with a garden attached. We shall probably start for
Batavia to-morrow by boat, however, stopping at three or
four places along the northern coast. Our steamer leaves
Batavia for Singapore on Friday, and we expect to catch a
boat there for Ceylon, so you see we shall be moving rapidly.
Steamship de Carpentier, Along the Northern Coast of Java,
Sunday Afternoon, November 17, 1895.
We are speeding along through these sunlit waters with
only a little breeze to cool us. Our steamer is very good,
even better than the one on which we came from Singapore,
and we may be able to return to the latter place direct, in
stead of changing at Batavia as we had expected.
I sent a letter off to you yesterday, and a,fter it was
posted we had a very exciting time, about which I must
tell you. When William arose yesterday morning and had
come back to his room from his bath, he happened to look
in the pocket where he carried his letter of credit and money.
The case was gone and both pocketbooks had been stolen
since the night before. He happened to be carrying the purse
for the party just then, and had about a hundred dollars in

JAVA. 157
cash. His letter was partly drawn. Well, you can imagine
that we were excited, for if all the money on that letter were
gone, it would take some time to get another, and would
mean that our purchases in India would be greatly hampered,
and would probably shorten our trip, or we might have to
remain in one place, waiting. Everyone in the hotel soon
knew about it, and the servants were put under arrest, and
no one allowed to leave the grounds. The police came, of
course, and after some time the "boy" who took care of
William's room was caught trying to hide the case in the
room of one of the boarders. It was a good lesson to Will
iam to be more careful with money, for he is a little careless.
We had the letter back after a few hours' delay in the court,
but the money is held until after the trial, which will occur
in two or three months. We were fortunate to get off so
easily, for I suppo.se we might have been held as witnesses.
However, none of us knew anything about it, as we did not
even see when the man was caught.
This affair occupied the whole of the morning, and in
the afternoon a heavy rainstorm prevented our going for
a drive as we had planned. There was a very pleasant
American couple in the hotel, with whom we spent the even
ing, and it did seem good to see some of our own people
again. This morning we arose early, had breakfast and went for
a long drive, the air was so exhilarating and fresh after the
rain. We found Soerabaya a very pretty place indeed, with
wide, shady streets and pleasant homes. It is quite different
from Batavia. One reason is that in the former city the
Dutch and native homes often stand side by side, while in
Batavia the quarters are quite distinct.
Our boat sailed promptly at noon.
Monday Evening, November i8, 1895.
When we awoke this morning our boat was at anchor
off Samarang, the third city in size on the island. After

158 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
breakfast we rowed ashore, a distance of about a mile. It
was very hot, with no breeze at all.
We found the town quite pretty, the streets wide and
well shaded with arching trees. Later, we took a drive
through the town and out into the country. One of the
curious things that we saw on the outskirts was the Chinese
cemeteries. There are a great many Chinese here and they
are among the most thrifty and wealthiest of the people ; they
have large, fine houses all over the island. At four o'clock
our boat sailed, and now we are skirting the coast quite
closely. I believe we make one or two stops to-night.
Poor Mamma met with an accident this morning; she
spilled a whole bottle of ink over her white duck suit. The
"boy" says that he can get it out at Batavia, however. I got
some black grease on my white dress, too, last night — we
seemed fated. It is almost impossible to keep our wardrobes
clean, and everyone wears such spotless white and looks so
fresh and nice, while we, traveling about, get our clothes
very much crumpled by so much packing. It will be at
least a week before we can get any laundering done, and that
will be four weeks since the last — you see we have our trou
bles. One never realizes what a luxury it is to have one's
own home until he has to do without it for a year or more.
I have been busy with my fancy work and helping
Mamma with some silk; she ran nearly out of colored silks
while in Japan, so bought some skeins there ; it was nice silk
and beautiful shades, but very hard to do anything with, for
it had not even been twisted as much as the filo silk.
Batavia, Java, Wednesday, November 20, 1895.
We are back in Batavia again, and will leave on Friday,
taking the same boat on which we came from Soerabaya.
We are at the hotel, as we have had enough of shipboard.
Yesterday was a quiet day, and we remained on deck, though
the steamer stopped at two or three places on the coast.
The weather was very warm, but two heavy showers fell,
which cooled the air for the time.

JAVA. 159
Thursday Afternoon, November 21, 1895.
I am the most unutterably lazy individual, unless per
haps it may be Isabel, who is at present lying on the bed,
looking so cool in a white silk negligee. The weather is very
warm to-day, and I should not be surprised if we had rain be
fore night. The rainy season is just beginning, and we were
very fortunate not to have had more rain as we went through
the country. This morning we spent in the museum, which is an un
usually fine one, containing curiosities from all the East
India islands belonging to the Dutch. We enjoyed a pleas
ant walk, too, under shady trees and through the best part
of the town.
We are not at Hotel des Indes, where we were before,
but at the "Netherland," and have formed such a different
opinion of the city, as we are seeing it under better condi
tions. We are in a more fashionable part of the town, and
everything seems agreeable and more full of life. Tea has
just been brought in and interrupted my writing, though I
do not believe there is much more to say for to-day.
Steamship de Carpentier,
Friday Evening, November 22, 1895.
It is time I was in bed, like my little sister, but I will
write a line first. We came down to the steamer early this
morning and sailed about nine. Such a lovely day as it has
been, like a day in August at home; fleecy white clouds in
an azure sky, a cool breeze made mostly by our own rapid
motion, and a perfectly smooth sea.
We passed such a curious thing to-night about sunset —
a few square feet of earth, with two or three palms waving
gently upon it, and all floating on the waters. It was in
reality a floating island, which we concluded had been washed
down by some stream in Sumatra. It looked like a ship a lit
tle way off.

160 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Saturday Evening, November 23, 1895.
It is rather rough and I do not feel very well; am not
alone, however, as the whole family is affected in the same
manner. We have had a pleasant day until about three
o'clock, when there was a rainstorm and the sea became
rough. I cannot write any more to-night; to-morrow we shall
be in Singapore. Raffle's Hotel, Singapore,
Sunday, November 24, 1895.
It seems almost a dream that we have been to Java, and
we are so glad toi be here again, in the tracks of the "globe
trotter." It was rather lonely on the island, as we rarely saw
an English-speaking person. The hotel here is very full just
now. The sea was quite rough last night, as you can judge by
the length of my letter, and none of us ate much supper, and
went to bed almost at once. I did not sleep very well, as I
was in constant terror lest a wave might come in and deluge
my berth. I have had so many experiences of that kind that
it is ever present with me. The boats in these hot climates
have large square windows, with smaller round ones to be
adjusted in case of storm, so that a wave coming up suddenly
might have full sweep.
We expected to arrive in Singapore at ten, but it was
two before we finally drew up to the wharf, and we were re
lieved not to be obliged to take a sampan ashore, as rain
threatened just then. These tropical storms come up. so
quickly and are so heavy for a short time.
It seems good to have our large trunks again that we
left here when we went South, and get straightened out gen
erally. To-morrow we shall repack. Our silks and furs that
we are carrying around for later use will all need attention,
as we find some things quite moldy in the trunks that we left
here. We are hoping for some mail to-morrow.

SINGAPORE. 161
Raffle's Hotel, Singapore,
Monday, November 25, 1895.
We have decided to go to Calcutta by way of Rangoon
after all. We leave Wednesday afternoon, and reach Cal
cutta in about ten days. This will give us a little time in
Burmah, and seems best in every way ; for one thing, it saves
retracing our steps across India, and we shall sail from Cey
lon instead of Bombay. Tuesday Noon, November 26, 1895.
I have been writing letters all of the morning, and must
not leave this to be closed until it is too late. We have had
no mail, so I suspect that everything is waiting for us in
Bombay, but it can be forwarded. It is a damp and rainy
day, and not very pleasant for packing.
I shall begin another letter as soon as we sail to-mor
row; am covered with ink, my hair is coming down and the
last gong has sounded for luncheon, so good-bye for the
present.

11

CHAPTER XI.
Steamship Nubudda, Straits of Malacca,
Wednesday, November 27, 1895.
A letter went off yesterday, and here is a new one be
gun. I sent four letters by that mail, and felt very pious,
Isabel and I were up early this morning, at six-thirty, to
do our packing. I did not accomplish anything yesterday,
after all. It was a rainy, disagreeable day, quite chilly and
it made one feel depressed. To-day the sun has been out,
and it is hot once more. We find the weather quite a little
cooler here than it was a few weeks ago. There have been
very heavy storms on the China Sea of late — how fortunate
we are in avoiding those storms. As we looked out at sea
to-day to the north, it appeared very dark and angry, but is
as smooth as can be here in the Straits.
Our boat is large and comfortable, though an old-fash
ioned one; everything seems clean, however, and the table
good, and we are not sorry that we changed our route. We
sailed at four this afternoon, and enjoyed watching the beauti
ful and heavily wooded shores, as we passed along in the
mellow evening light. Some of the prettiest homes in Sing
apore He in among and on the hills along the Straits; we
could not see them from the shore. There are several pas
sengers this time, among whom are three agreeable-looking
Chinamen from Singapore. Such a difference as there is in
that race ; the lowest coolies are like rats, and the highest are
real gentlemen. 162

EN ROUTE FOR RANGOON. 163
Penang Harbor, Friday Morning, November 29, 1895.
I am just out of my cabin, Isabel is still sound asleep,
and William is only just up, so I feel very enterprising. It is
half-past seven, and breakfast will not be ready until nine. I
am down in the salon, with the half-light from the heavily
awninged deck coming down through the open skylight. It
is a beautiful moming, with a cool, fresh breeze, and the town
makes a pretty picture as I see it from the porthole. We go
ashore after breakfast.
The weather was very cool all day yesterday, and we
had some heavy showers in the morning, the heaviest I
have ever seen. The poor steerage passengers were pretty
well drowned out, but probably they are accustomed to such
rains, as they only laughed. There is a cage of dear little
Japanese sparrows down in the salon — I think there must be
twenty in one small cage. The poor little things had no
perch until I took Papa's cane and put it through the bars.
Last evening every one was on it, and those that could not
get on the cane itself perched on the backs of their fellows,
except two, one on the drinking cup and the other dead in
the seed dish. Bay of Bengal, Saturday, November 30, 1895.
It is a Httle rough this moming, with a cool, bracing
breeze, though as yet I have not been on deck. We had a
pleasant day yesterday. After breakfast a small boat took us
ashore, and the sun was, oh ! so hot. It seemed brighter than
I have ever known it to be, but the breeze was strong, and
as soon as the shade was reached we did not mind the heat
so much. At the wharf we found some carriages, and drove
out through the town to the Botanical Gardens, where there
was a beautiful waterfall and the city reservoir. Penang is
a very pretty place, situated on a small mountainous island
just off the west coast of the Malay Peninsula; the city faces
the narrow channel which separates it from the mainland.
There are a great many wealthy Chinamen in Penang, whose

164 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
homes are very gorgeous and imposing, with their bright-
colored stucco and flowers. We enjoyed the walk in the
gardens, and then returned to the boat just in time for tiffin.
At six we sailed away to the north. The moon came out
shortly after the sunset, and we sat watching the brightly
flecked waves and the dark shores until it was time to retire.
In about a month from now, when the moon is full again, I
hope that we shall be in Agra, so that we can see the Taj
Mahal by that mystic light.
Our passengers number about eight, but are not particu
larly interesting. We are entertained by a tiny monkey, with
which Mamma has become acquainted, and he clings to her
when he gets frightened. All day yesterday we took aboard
quantities of cocoanuts, which are to go to Rangoon. It
seems like "carrying coals to Newcastle," for cocoanuts are so
plentiful everywhere. At the Mouth of the Rangoon River,
Monday Morning, December 2, 1895.
We are near land I suppose, though none is in sight — we
arrive late this afternoon. This stream is one of the mouths
of the Irrawaddy, the largest river in Burmah.
The last day or two have been very quiet, with nothing
of interest happening, and no land in sight, except one or two
tiny islands. There was one very beautiful sunset, with
gorgeous red or deep orange rays and bars of deeper red
along the horizon. We have been rather disappointed in
most of the sunsets, for they are usually very subdued in col
oring. I was reading a book of travels a good part of the
time, written by Henry Norman, cousin of the Mr. N 
whom we met in Peking.
The moonlight is lovely now, and the weather perfect.
It is warm enough for thin clothing, although a cool breeze
is blowing all of the time from the northeast — the regular
monsoon.

RANGOON. 165
Great Eastern Hotel, Rangoon, Burmah,
Tuesday, December 3, 1895.
Such a lovely place is Rangoon ! We came up the river
yesterday, getting to the wharf about four or five, and it
was sunset before we were settled in our rooms, overlooking
the water. There was a gorgeous sunset, too, red and orange
and hazy azure and pink, with dark gray clouds crossing.
The streets below our windows were thronged with natives
of all shades of brown, dressed in the most vivid colors I have
ever seen. We watched the beautiful scene for a long time,
until the light faded out of the sky, and the still waters of the
river began to reflect the soft light of the moon. After din
ner we drove through the quiet streets of the town to visit
the Great Pagoda, the largest in the world. This pagoda lis
built on an artificial hill, for the country is very flat all about
here, and its golden pinnacle can be seen a long way off. It is
similar in shape to the Siamese Wats, is overlaid with gold-
leaf, but has in addition a slender spire on which tiny silver
bells are in some way suspended; these tinkle in the breeze
and fill the air with melody. We ascended the hiU under an
archway formed by a succession of shrines, the floor and steps
highly polished by innumerable bare feet. There was no light
but the moon as it came through the arches, or an occasional
candle at some altar. Here and there in the semi-darkness a
white shrouded form could be seen on a bench, asleep for
the night. After ascending perhaps a hundred steps, we
came out upon a large stone platform from which the pagoda
rises. All about its base and surrounding the open space on
which we stood were chapels and small pagodas innumerable,
some glittering with mosaic or inlaid gems, for there are real
jewels in these pinnacles. Streamers were flying, and candles
sputtering in little niches where sat alabaster statues of Bud
dha. Some of the shrines were carved in dark teakwood,
with beautiful heavy roofs. I cannot describe the scene, for
it was like nothing else that I have ever beheld — it seemed
a picture from fairyland. We shall go again to-day and see
it by daylight.

166 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
After we came down the hill we drove about among
some small lakes in the neighborhood, and along the wide
shaded streets, with the low houses or bungalows in among
the trees ; it all looked very peaceful and homelike. The air
was quite warm, but our excursion cooled us off for the
night. We expected to go to Mandalay to-day, but have given
it up. Mamma has taken a severe cold and is not able to take
the long railway journey. It is a twenty-four hours' ride, and
I do not imagine the cars are particularly comfortable for
sleepers. Later: I will only close this, for I am very tired.
Mamma is better but has remained in her room all day,
while the rest of us have rushed first to one thing and then
another. After I wrote to you this moming, we went to a
large lumber-yard and saw the elephants at work, carrying
and piling the huge logs. Then we came back to breakfast
at nine-thirty, and since then have visited the pagoda again,
and have looked about among the native shops. Now we
have to pack and have dinner before we go aboard, for we
sail at daylight and shall sleep on the boat. The steamer
Africa looks very pleasant indeed.
This letter will go on with us to Calcutta, but I did want
to post one letter here.

CHAPTER XII.
Bay of Bengal, Steamship Africa, B, I, S, Co,,
Wednesday, December 4, 1895.
My letter last night was writteni in so much of a hurry
that I hardly know what was in it. We were very tired and
only waited to have our dinner before we came down to the
boat. This is a smaller vessel than the Nubudda, but so
clean and in every respect comfortable. Mamma is a great
deal better.
Last night was very hot, as we could not get much
air so close to the dock. Isabel had a dreadful fright from
some cockroaches ; we find them on all the boats ; very large
ones sometimes, ranging in size from two inches in length to
the tiny ones; these last night were of the largest size, and
poor Isabel could not sleep until she had the mosquito net
ting firmly tucked in all about her. I thought that we should
never get settled. The boat was moored to the wharf until
four in the moming, so it was quite hot below decks.
All day we have been coming down the river, but now
the low coast is entirely out of sight — even the sea-gulls have
left us. It is sunset, but there are too many clouds for
beauty, Hoogly River, India,
Saturday Morning, December 7, 1895.
It is two whole days since I have written, but the sea has
been so rough that we have all been very seasick. There
has not been much to write about, however, for we have only
sat on deck and read and slept. Thursday it was just rough
enough to make us want to keep quiet; it was not a very
167

168 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
cheerful day, and by evening it was so rough that we did not
care much for dinner. Yesterday I was on deck all day,
though I did not get out of my chair, but lay cuddled in a
shawl. The sun was out, shining brightly, but the wind was
quite cool and the sea very rough. It is cool to-day also, so
that we are glad of thicker clothing.
We are in the Hoogly River, and can just see the dim
outline of the shores on either side. It wiU be four or five
o'clock before we arrive, I suppose, as Calcutta is quite a
way up the river. We leave some very pleasant traveling
companions, all Englishmen. The officers, too, are some of
the best that we have come across. This is the last boat we
shall be on for some weeks.
Mrs. Monk's Grand Hotel, Calcutta, India,
Sunday, December 8, 1895,
We are fairly comfortable in this hotel, and our rooms
are quite pleasant ; Mamma's especially is large and sunny,
with a nice sitting-room opening off, and is very grand for
this part of the world. The people here in the house are
mostly English, and last night at dinner there was a gfreat
showing of bare arms and necks — ^it made us feel quite coun
trified with our more modest gowns. The weather is cold
here, so that we are glad to have our heaviest clothing.
All day yesterday we were on the river. About noon
the quicksands of "James and Mary" were crossed. It was
very exciting, for if the boat had only touched one of the
sand-bars it would have gone down in a few moments, and
no one could have helped without being drawn down also.
As we were passing along a few moments before, we saw a
steamer, or rather a part of it, which was above the water,
that had gone down in 1892, with five men aboard. It was
all over in five nainutes, and now only the tops of the masts
are to be seen ; the boat cannot be raised, nor can any of the
cargo be gotten.
We have three servants here for our own especial use.

CALCUTTA. 169
I do not know how many we shall have regularly, but in
India everyone has his own servant, for the hotels furnish
none. We have not seen much of Calcutta yet, as it was
dark when we arrived at the hotel, but we are going out to
church shortly, and shall see some parts of the city as we
go through town. It is at least a month since it has been
possible to attend service of any kind, and it will seem good
to be respectable again. I wish breakfast was ready, for I
am hungry. Calcutta, Monday Moming, December 9, 1895.
Yesterday, as soon as breakfast was over, we went to
church and afterward to see Mrs. P  . Had a pleasant call
and heard all about the work of the Women's Christian Tem
perance Union in India. After dinner we drove across the
river to the Botanical Gardens. This side of the river is
mostly European, with fine public buildings, large open
squares and wide streets. Along the river there are many
"Ghats," or places where dead bodies are burned. We went
into one yesterday. There was the body of a man who had
died of remittent fever, lying on the burning logs, with
his legs extending beyond the flames ; the rest of his body we
could just discern as it lay among the blazing embers, and
the friends stood about watching.
When we crossed the long bridge to the other side of the
Hoogly, we were in another city — Howraw. There we really
seemed to be in some foreign land. First, however, we had
to cross a long viaduct which seemed like home ; we had not
seen so many railway tracks since we left America. Then
we passed rows of native huts, with the busy throngs of gayly
dressed people — the men in their bright scarfs and the women
in white drapery and heavy silver jewelry. After a time we
came out into the country, with shady roads, but very dusty.
It is the dry season here, and all the foliage is white with the
finely powdered dust. The gardens are charming, with long
avenues of trees, and pools of water here and there, and

170 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
broad stretches of lawn ; we were particularly impressed with
the clearness of the reflections in these ponds. There were
several pretty fern houses, and the celebrated banyan tree,
which measures one thousand feet in circumference.
It was dark as we returned to the city, and the natives
were cooking their rice. The evening air was full of wood
smoke, making the rushlights and dimly-seen moving figures
look weird. The rosy hue from the declining sun cast a
witching light over all, and made the whole scene seem un
real — but very fascinating.
We received a call from a Mr. L  before breakfast
this morning, and we are going with his wife at noon to visit
some of the zenanas. The L  s are missionaries — needless
to say — of the Methodist Episcopal mission.
Papa and William are out just now, and I am hoping
that they will return with some mail. Good-bye for the
present. Later, nine p. m. : This has been such an interesting
day that I must write you at once about it, while it is all
fresh in my mind and I have time.
Mrs. L  called for us at one o'clock, and we drove
with her to her home, which was not at all grand, only com
fortably furnished, and with the school on the ground floor.
We visited the children as they were at their lessons. There
must have been about two hundred little girls, ranging in
ages from three to fourteen years. A few were older, but
fourteen is the age for marrying, and it is seldom that they
can attend after that time. There were several tiny wives,
and one or two widows among these children, however.
Some of the little things sang for us very sweetly, but as a
rule their voices were not particularly melodious.
From the school we went into the home of a wealthy
Hindoo family, where there must have been at least a dozen
women with their children. These were all grown wives, but
such homes ! The buildings, some of them two stories high,
were built about a disorderly court, with absolutely no

NATIVE STREET IN CALCUTTA.

CALCUTTA. 171
beauty anywhere. The piazzas and windows were so ar
ranged that nothing could be seen of the outside world, ex
cept the roofs of the neighboring houses. We went into art-
other of the homes, and saw the head wife. Her daughter
was visiting her, a beautiful girl of about seventeen. They
brought out their jewelry and the younger one decked her
self with the^heavy gold armlets and chains; the best jewels
were all locked away, and the husband carried the key. Then
we went into another part of the same house, where we saw
some of the young men and boys of the family; they were
very good looking and had such agreeable manners. We
also went into two other homes, and were much interested.
In some of the narrow streets the women climbed onto the
walls and roofs and called to us to come in and see them also,
but, of course, there was not time to go everywhere. I
should have liked to visit each one, for it seemed so pitiful to
think of how little of the outside world they see. The only
glimpse they have is when they steal off onto the walls or
are carried in a closed litter from one house to another. In
one house there was a poor sick woman, and we felt so sorry
for her. Most of the women had pretty faces, and were
really happy. What seemed such hardships to us are every
day occurrences with them, and they know nothing different
— perhaps we have no reason to pity them.
All welcomed Mrs. L  very cordially and listened at
tentively to what she said. Of course, no one spoke English,
so we could say nothing to them. Mrs. L  is the only mis
sionary who speaks Bengali, though there are a number of
zenana workers. I hardly see how they could do anything
without .speaking the language. Hindoostani would help
them but very little, as the native tongue for this part of
India is Bengali. I wish I had thought to bring William's
camera with me on this trip through the homes of the people,
but I did not. One thing that puzzled the women was the
fact that Isabel and I were not married — one woman would
not believe it. Mrs. L  tried to explain that we did not

172 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
have to marry in America until we wished to do so — it
seemed very queer to them.
Calcutta, Tuesday Noon, December lo, 1895.
I must close, for I wish this letter to get off before we
leave for Darjiling. This has been a hard day, for it has
been spent mostly with our trunks. We are only taking a
small trunk and our hand luggage; the rest will be sent on
to Bombay, and we shall not see it for a month at least.
Papa is out now attending to a little business. Mamma
and W  have been to the museum, and our "boys" are
getting the quilts and pillows rolled up, preparatory to our
journey to-night. We have to carry our own bedding with us
all through India, and for five people that means a large bun
dle, or rather three large bundles. It is so cold here that we
are wearing our warmest clothing. Does not that seem
strange for India? We are all very well but for colds. I think
that the cool air here will do us good when we get accus
tomed to it. It is a little trying at first, however, to jump
from August to October weather within a few diays.
Bellevue Cottage, Darjiling, India,
Thursday Afternoon, December 12, 1895.
To begin at the beginning: I ended my last letter in
Calcutta and expected to have it posted there, but in the
hurry of getting off it remained in William's pocket and
came here instead.
Tuesday night about four o'clock our train left. We
crossed the plain, with nothing very interesting to see until
about eight, when we came to the Ganges River; there we
boarded a large ferry-boat, on which dinner was served. The
boat ascended the river for a little distance, and then landed
at a station where another train awaited us. The sun had
set long ere this, and the short twilight faded so quickly that
we could form no idea of our surroundings. We had queer
little sleeping apartments on the train; each car contained

DARJILING. 173
two separate rooms, with about four or five berths each, and
they were really very comfortable. There was a dressing-
room off, so that we had some of the conveniences, if not the
luxuries, that we would have had at home in our own cars.
It grew quite cold in the night, and we were glad that our
quilts were so heavy.
The sun was scarcely up when we awoke and looked
from the windows. The view was lovely, the Kinchinjanga
so distinctly seen in the clear air that every peak was visible
against the pale blue sky. It did not look as though they
were very far away. We were still crossing the plain through
which the Ganges flows, but the mountains were close at
hand. At nine we stopped for breakfast, and changed cars.
I think that the Httle train which brings travelers here must
be the queerest in the world; the tracks are only two feet
wide, and each compartment of the semi-English coaches
about as large as a good-sized carriage; these were swung
very near the ground. We began to ascend almost immedi
ately, and soon we were among the most luxuriant vegeta
tion. It was a very beautiful ride through the mountains,
with heavy semi-tropical foliage almost all the way to Dar-
jiHng ; up, up, we climbed, with scarcely a level spot, and the
foliage began to be less dense and of a different type. These
little hill people are Mongolians, and look like our American
Indians, except that their skin is yellow instead of red. They
dress a little Hke them, too, with blankets. The only dif
ference in the appearance of the men and women is that the
latter wear their hair in two braids instead of one, and are
loaded with jewelry. They are very fond of the turquoise
stone and have huge earrings and necklaces of it.
The summit of the pass was reached about four ; then we
were seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. There
the road crossed on a sort of saddle between two mountains
to the peak or promontory on which Darjiling is situated. I
say promontory, for this mountain projects out into the
plain which is between us and the Snowy range. When we

174 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
rounded into the town the full glow of the beautiful peaks
burst upon us, and we could scarcely keep our eyes from
them. We had to climb a steep hill to our little hotel, but
the view here is magnificent, so we do not care for any
amount of climbing.
Soon the sun began to set. In the west over behind the
lower mountains the sun was going down in a bath of gold.
The sky, between bands of yellow which crossed it, was of the
most intense turquoise blue that I have ever seen; these
were the only colors. To the right stretched the Snowy
range, the highest and whitest peaks first and then gradually
diminishing as they extended eastward ; these reflected a rosy
light for a long time. Near at hand the mountains on this
side of the valley were an intense blue-black; and nearer
still, the tiny white villas and houses of Darjiling stood out
clearly in the evening light. The smoke was rising from the
native huts, and one by one the twinkling lights came out
of the gloom beneath. I watched the sun set until only a
faint rosy light remained, and the west was a deep red and
orange; then the air was too cold for comfort. The others
had left me some time before, to seek the warmth of the
wood fires. Our rooms are old-fashioned with huge open
fireplaces, and we did so enjoy the blaze last night.
Another luxury we find here is the sweet, rich milk —
this is something we have not found heretofore since we left
America; it has always been canned. The water, too, we
do not fear, as it is right from the mountains, and there are
no ricefields so high up. We disliked to stir from our warm
nests in bed this morning, for the rooms seemed so cold when
the "boys" came in with our early tea. We have two very
good servants — tall, handsome fellows, especially one, whose
name is Anodine. He was one of the men who served in one
of the tea-booths at the World's Fair, so speaks English very
well. The other man is his cousin, and this is his first trip
away from Calcutta.
This morning we went up to "Tiger Hill" to get a

DARJILING. 176
glimpse of Mount Everest, which cannot be seen from here.
The ride of six miles in the crisp air among the mountains
was delightful. I went on horseback with Papa and William,
while the other two were in chairs, or dandies, as they are
called here. There was a heavy white frost over everything,
and the little streams along the roadside had a thin coating
of ice when we started, but as the sun rose higher, its warmth
soon dispelled all trace of winter. Some of the trees were
tinged with orange, but usually the foliage was very green.
We had a glorious view of the range, without a cloud in the
sky to cover a single peak. Mount Everest was away to
the left of the main Snows, and only the top of the peak
could be seen peeping above the nearer green mountains.
I enjoyed looking down into the depths of the valleys ;
they had such beautiful blue, hazy shadows, like that pano
rama we saw of theAlps in the"Midway" — do you remember?
Later: We have been down into the shops this after
noon, among the natives. There is a large market here,
where we have been seeing some curious specimens of hu
manity, but there is little for sale to tempt strangers. I am
sitting now in front of a fire with my paper upon my knees,
enjoying a nice rest. The sky was entirely free from clouds
at sunset to-night, so there was not the same effect as last
night. The pink tints on the Snows, however, were very
lovely. Do you remember Stoddard's pictures of sunset on
the Himalayas? It reminded me of them to-night as I
watched the light fade away until only the cold white Snows
remained. Darjiling, Friday Morning, December 13, 1895.
We leave here this morning, returning to Calcutta.
There was some thought of staying until Monday, but we
feel the cold so much and there are too many discomforts to
put up with. Isabel and I have been trying to coax last
night's fire into a blaze, but the wood is green, I guess, and
it requires constant work with the beHows to make even a

176 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
tiny blaze. Off in the distance we can see the soldiers driU
to the music of drum and horn. There are plenty of red
coats here. Mrs. Monk's Hotel, Calcutta,
Saturday, December 14, 1895.
We have been enjoying our long looked-for mail, and
are the least bit homesick, for we seem a long distance from
our friends at home, away off here in India. Our trip down
from Darjiling yesterday was exceedingly interesting and
lovely. Of course, the views were reversed from those com
ing up, and I think they were more beautiful, as we could look
down into the gorges filled with the shadowy depths of the
forests. At length we took the wide gauge road on the plain,
and were in the sleeper. This time the train was very much
crowded, and we had to be all in one small compartment,
William sleeping on the floor. At daybreak we were obliged
to get up to cross the Ganges. It was just sunrise as we
steamed down the river, and a very beautiful sight it was,
too; the reddening east shading to purple and Hght blue,
and above in the clear sky the moon and the beautiful bright
Morning Star, the broad river flowing peacefully on, with a
few boats here and there, and the sandy banks. All of this
reminded me of Egypt and the Nile.
It was very dusty as we came into Calcutta, which we
entered about eleven, and were glad to go at once to the
hotel and get freshened up. This afternoon I have been
looking in the shops to find a pair of heavy shoes to fit me, as
those I brought from home are almost worn out. It was im
possible, however, for the English make such queer-shaped
things. To-night we start for Benares, where we shall spend
three or four days ; it will be our first real glimpse of Indian
life. We are just waiting now for the time to take the train.

BENARES. 177
Clark's Family Hotel, Benares, India,
Sunday, December 15, 1895.
This has been a long, hard day, and we are very tired.
Last night as soon as the train started we had our berths
made and went to bed, but did not sleep much. We were on
the mail train between Calcutta and Lahore, and every com
partment was crowded. There were two women and a
small child in our section, which was supposed to hold five.
It was very cold, too, and the Hght overhead burned right in
my face all night; there are no curtains to these English
berths. At daybreak we were up and it seemed an eternity until
nine o'clock, when the train stopped for breakfast. The
country was very flat, and in some parts fertile, but there
seemed to be a great deal of alkali in the soil. About noon
Benares was reached, and thankful enough we were to find
a good hotel and some pleasant-looking people. There
are three or four Americans among the guests — "globe-trot
ters," too, I imagine.
This afternoon we have been to the Monkey Temple,
and have taken a ride on the river. It was so beautiful all
along by the water — ^just as it looked in the pictures, only
that the colors made it more picturesque. It was sunset as
our barge glided over the mirror-like Ganges, and every
pinnacle and dome was reflected in the still surface. At one
place we drew up to the bank and watched the cremation
of a dead body. Such a weird, solemn sight, but decidedly
fantastic, too. We watched the whole process, from the dip
ping in the Ganges to the laying out on the wood, pouring
on the oil and lighting the funeral pile, which was all done
in a quiet, but matter-of-fact manner.
Mamma has gone to church somewhere, taking one of
the "boys" as guide, and we are wondering to which church
they will go — his or hers. I suppose he is a Hindoo. I
am very bad, I know, but I do not feel at all like going to
church here. Good-bye for this time ; there goes the dress
ing bell, and I am only half ready for dinner.
12

178 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Benares, Monday Evening, December i6, 1895.
Early this morning, when it was just beginning to be
light, a knock was heard at my door, and I had to crawl out
of my nice warm nest to open it for our tea. We all dressed
as quickly as possible, and even then Papa felt that we were
exceedingly slow. The carriage was waiting at the door,
and after a two or three mile drive through the dusty streets
and passing many a palace and hovel, we came to the river's
bank. Descending to our boat, the glory of the morning
light on the numerous palaces, temples and flights of steps
crowded with bathers in their bright-colored clothing burst
on our sight. It was beautiful beyond description ! For two
or three hours we floated along the river bank, and I never
enjoyed anything more; it was a feast of color. After that
we returned to the hotel to breakfast at ten, pretty well tired
out, for we were so faint and hungry. After breakfast Papa
and I went to the jail, where carpets are manufactured, and
Mamma and Isabel to see some of the missionaries. This
afternoon we have spent at a place near Benares, where
Buddha first had his school. There is only a ruined pile,
something like a pyramid, to mark the spot now. We en
joyed playing with some of the little native children, with
which the place swarmed.
Our first juggler made his appearance to-day. He had
some snakes and a mongoose; the mongoose killed his
snakes, and then the juggler tried to amuse us by some very
poor tricks. Take the whole performance together, it was
rather a fake.
It is cold here this evening, and we think that the warm
est place will be bed, so good-night.
Benares, Wednesday, December 18, 1895.
It is only a little after eight, but we are all packed
and ready to leave at noon. Yesterday was spent mostly
in the shops ; brass is the principal thing to buy here. The
tiny streets, so clean and paved with large flagstones, are

AGRA. 179
extremely picturesque; I love to wander among them.
Yesterday morning we received a call from Kisho Run Roy,
a Hindoo gentleman who is a temperance worker. He is
very enthusiastic about Mrs. L  's work here.
Royal Hotel, Lucknow, India,
Thursday, December 19, 1895.
We have been busy since breakfast and have seen al
most everything of interest here. Of course, the chief place
is the site of the Mutiny, and we have seen aU sorts of old,
ruined and shattered buildings. There is a very good
museum also, and two beautiful mosques — that is, they are
beautiful at a distance, but as they are only made of stucco
they do not bear close inspection. We are anxious to see
some of the really beautiful things at Agra. We hope to
rest there for a time, as we are very tired ; but it is difficult
to give ourselves up to any kind of rest, off in these uncom
fortable places, and, too, there is so much ahead of us that
we want to be moving on.
Our ride yesterday was a hard one, as the dusty prairie
or plain had nothing of interest to offer. We arrived in
Lucknow at nine, and were glad to have some hot tea and
go to bed. The hotel is very comfortable here, and the curio
men have their wares spread in front of our rooms on the
piazza. Hotel Metropole, Agra, India,
Friday, December 20, 1895.
We are settled here for a while, and are going to do
Agra at our leisure. It was cold last night in the cars, but
fortunately we were able to charter a car, so that there was
no change for us ; otherwise we should have had to move out
twice during the night — at six and eleven — thus breaking our
sleep very much. Isabel had taken cold, and as soon as we
left Lucknow we put her to bed, and now she is much bet
ter. Oh, it was so cold ! I thought that I should freeze be-

180 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
fore morning. We were obliged to get up at seven, how
ever, as our car had been side-tracked at midnight.
Our hotel here is very comfortable, though a small one,
and there are only two guests beside ourselves. All the
morning we were delayed with curio men; they had some
very pretty things in alabaster and soapstone carving, but I
fear they would break easily in carrying. After tiffin we went
to a large store to look at rugs, and then to get our first
peep at the Taj Mahal. I simply cannot find words to de
scribe the latter. Our first impression as we saw it from a
distance over the tree tops was that we had gotten our hopes
too high and should be disappointed; but when we reached
the beautiful red sandstone gateway and saw the Taj from
the platform just inside (the view that is usually seen of it),
we could only hold our breath in awe ; it was like a beautiful
pearl. The hour was too late, however, to take more than a
peep, but we went inside to see the tombs. Oh ! the beautiful
lacework in stone; that is what I admire most in the detail
work. The beauty of the whole was its simplicity and har
mony; the gateway and walks of red sandstone, the lovely
garden, and the pure white building in the center with its
pinnacle touched with gold. We shall go there again — sev
eral times probably — and shall wait in order to see it by
moonlight. Agra is a very pretty place, with broad drive
ways, and the homes and public buildings have large grounds
about them. It is dusty and dry just now, so we shall not'
see it at its best. I should not like to live here, though.
Saturday Night, December ii, 1895.
We have been busy over our selection of rugs to-day,
and have some of them selected, also some for Uncle Ralph,
They will be very pretty, I think, all of them, but they will
have to be made to order, and we cannot get them until late
in the summer.

A PICTURESQUE NOOK IN AGRA.

AGRA. 181
Agra, Sunday Night, December 22, 1895.
For all this is Sunday we have accomplished a good
day's work in the way of sightseeing. Mamma, Isabel and
I went to church this morning and heard a very interesting
service. Papa and William wandered in the bazaars, and
we met them there on our way home, taking them into
the carriage and driving across the river to a beautiful tomb
erected in memory of the prime minister of Shah Jehan, the
emperor who built the Taj. It is smaller than the Taj, but
very beautiful, especially from the inside, is all of white
marble inlaid with precious stones like the Taj, and with
the same lacework in marble. It is exquisite !
This afternoon we drove about five miles over the plain
to the tomb of Akbar, one of the other Great Moguls, but
I did not admire the building very much. It is quite large
and built mostly of red sandstone, with the upper part of
white marble. The part which is of the marble is beautiful,
and there is where the tomb was placed, in an open court
on the topmost part of the building. All around this court
is a graceful colonnade, and in the center is the tomb. At
its head stands a little pillar, and there reposed at one time
the celebrated diamond, the Kohinoor. It was taken from
there years ago, however, and after changing hands many
times it now reposes in the Tower of London, among the
crown jewels of England. We saw it there once upon a
time. A party of five arrived this morning, so our little hotel
seems quite full. They are some English and Australian
people whom we met once before in Benares. I wish that
you could have seen some of the lovely materials which
we saw this evening, just after dinner — real cloth of gold
and beautiful white gauze. These are used for the Indian
ladies' dresses, and only cost from twenty to a hundred
pounds sterling. It is enough to turn the heads of most
women to get among the exquisite embroideries, etcetera,
that are shown in the best shops here; even the common
stuffs are lovely.

182 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Agra, Monday Night, December 23, 1895.
Mamma and Papa have gone to make a call on some
missionaries, and I hope they are having a pleasant time.
This morning was spent in looking over some beautiful
embroideries and cashmeres. We have not bought any as
yet, but I suppose that Lahore or Delhi is a better place
for purchasing anyway. We like to look at the lovely
things, though, and I guess the shopkeepers do not have
very much to do. Our rugs are bought; those that are to
be made, I mean.
This afternoon we went to the Fort, and explored the
beauties there. We all think that the detail work is much
finer, as far as we have seen, than the Taj. It is lovely,
especially the Pearl Mosque, and is all very simple, but rich
and grand. The view from the Jasmine Tower, where Shah
Jehan spent his last days looking across at the tomb of
his beloved wife, is very beautiful; the quiet river, with its
low, sandy banks, stretching off into the fertile plain in
the foreground, the feathery trees in the distance, and along
the right bank of the river, but almost directly in the center
of the picture, because of the curve of the stream, rises the
pearl-like dome of the Taj Mahal. It is not surprising that
Shah Jehan loved to watch that scene.
I want to visit the Pearl Mosque in the Fort again in
the morning, to get a more perfect light on the rows of
pillars. In some respects I like this mosque the best of
any that I have seen thus far. These buildingjs all seem
more beautiful after a second visit. We are anxiously watch
ing the moon, and hope that it may soon grow light enough
so that we can go to the Taj.
We have two hard days ahead of us, making excursions
out from here. Agra itself we have finished for the present.
Agra, Tuesday Afternoon, December 24, 1895.
We are just home from a long excursion to Fatehpur
Sikri, the old deserted city which was the seat of govern-

AGRA. 183
ment of the Great Moguls before Agra was settled. We
started about eight o'clock, in our large barouche, with
white-turbaned driver and pink-turbaned footman and our
"boy," Anodine. We spun along the hard, smooth road,
lined with dusty trees, passing bullock carts, camels and
all kinds of vehicles. The walls of the old city we at last
reached, after a drive of nearly two hours. The former dwell
ing houses are now piles of rubbish. I never saw a deserted
city before, unless one can count Pompeii, of which this
reminded me a little. The Fort stands in the center of
this desolation, and is very well preserved. The palaces and
mosques — indeed, the whole of the Fort — is of red sand
stone, except one beautiful tomb, which stands in the center
of the large court of the mosque. The carving on this
little white gem is wonderful, especially the lacework win
dows. The carving in stone everywhere in the Fort is very
beautiful also; sometimes whole rooms are covered with
bas-reliefs — walls, pillars and ceilings. The Taj is, of course,
very beautiful as a whole, but the detail work on some of
these other buildings is quite as lovely. I think that we
enjoyed Fatehpur Sikri fully as much as Agra Fort. The
former was built about three hundred years ago by Akbar,
and then abandoned for Agra, as the water supply was so
much better in the latter place.
There is one quite interesting feature about this dis
trict, and that is to see how the beautiful architecture has
influenced the minds and tastes of the people. There are
many more graceful buildings in this town than in Benares,
for instance, where there is comparatively little architectural
beauty. To-night we are going to see the Taj by moonHght,
and to-morrow another long excursion is planned. Papa
and Isabel are out trying to find some confections for Christ
mas, and they probably will cable home, if the office is not
closed. To think that this is Christmas Eve! It is like
September or October here, evening and morning, and, of

184 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
course, everything is green and very dusty — not much Hke
the weather that you are having. Agra, Christmas Night, 1895,
To think of the many, many miles which separate us
from our dear ones to-night. It is morning with you, and
you are just having your presents. Last evening, Christmas.
Eve, we went to see the Taj by moonlight, and I wish to
take back everything that I have ever said about the other
buildings being almost as beautiful. Nothing can compare
with it in beauty of outline, detail or conception; it is per
fection. The other mosques and tombs are beautiful with
an earthly, tangible loveliness, but the Taj Mahal is heav
enly, and something beyond our grasp! The moon last
night was only half full, but so bright in this clear air that
the effect was prettier than though it had been at its fuU.
The most beautiful view we had from a platform half-way
up the walk from the gateway. We did not dare to sit long,
on account of the chill in the air, so passed on up the walk
to the platform on which the Taj stands. The air was so
very still, and the tall, solemn-looking, dark evergreen trees,
which lined the path, made everything seem more somber
and stately. We went inside the tomb and heard the beau
tiful echo. A monk sang some verses from the Koran in
a sweet, loud voice, and the echo sounded like a chime of
bells. After that we walked about on the snowy platform,
getting all the effects from every direction. It was a night
ever to be remembered.
To-day we have been to Muttra and Brindaban, a long
day's excursion. At half-past eight this morning we took
a slow train, which landed us at Muttra about eleven, where
we saw some interesting mosques, the picturesque street life
and numerous monkeys, the latter running about at their
own sweet will. The facades of some of the private houses
facing the narrow street were beautifully ornamented with
carved stone work ; it was well worth seeing. We were also

AGRA. 185
interested in seeing a span of camels harnessed to a carriage;
something rare, even here. Bullocks are common enough,
and they are so beautiful.
From Muttra we drove to Brindeban, the holy city of
the Hindoos, I do not know that it is more holv than
Benares, but no one except those of the Brahmin caste are
allowed to live there, save a few who do the menial work
which those of the higher caste cannot do. There is no
other place in all India just like it.
Brindaban contains a beautiful ruined temple, and there
are thousands and thousands of monkeys; these last are
very familiar, and will grab a piece of bread or fruit from
one's hand before he knows it. I wish you could have seen
us at our luncheon. We did not have time to find a good
place in which to rest, and I doubt if one could be found,
so we stopped our old, rattling, dusty carriages in the middle
of the broad street and ate there, with natives, monkeys and
dogs looking on. The latter ate all that we did not want,
and helped themselves to anything they particularly fancied
besides, but the former would not even allow our shadows
to touch them, for fear of contamination.
We saw all the sights and then turned our tired faces
homeward, reaching here a little before dinner. Our Christ
mas dinner is now over, and how we wished we might have
had some of the good things at .home. We had no turkey,
of course, as they are almost unknown here, but the plum
pudding came on in a blaze of light. We shall enjoy our
Christmas next year all the more, probably.
To-morrow, or next day, we go to a place south of
here, and on Sunday we shall be in Delhi. We have not yet
cabled, as the office was closed yesterday, and we have not
had a moment to do so' since, but I think that a greeting will
be sent to-morrow. And now, a Merry Christmas to all of
you, and good-night.

186 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Agra, India,
Thursday Evening, December 26, 1895.
A letter was mailed to you this morning, and it will
catch the Saturday steamer from Bombay. To-day we have
been bgsy doing the last things in connection with our
rugs. Just think, it will be next fall or winter before we
get the large ones ! It is better to have them made to order,
however, for the patterns are so much prettier and the
quality better. Uncle Ralph's two rugs are very handsome.
I hope they will like them as well as we do; the one for
the library is especially pretty. We rather expected to be
off to-day, but have been too busy; will go to-morrow.
There are some decidedly agreeable English people at our
table, who have just come from the north, and they give
very good accounts of the trip we are about taking.
Gwalior, India,
Saturday Noon, December 28, 1895.
We are in our palace-car, on a sidetrack near the station,
and are as cozy as can be. It is not exactly as fine as one
of our cars — no, not exactly, but this is India. Yesterday,
in the morning, we visited the Pearl Mosque and the Taj
once more. The glare was something fearful, and I came
home with a terrible headache. We saw the detail work,
and got the effect of the strcftig sunlight. It is so dark inside
the Taj that it is only at noonday that anything can be
seen without a candle. At four o'clock we took the train,
and by seven reached this place, where we were switched
off. The country hereabouts is quite picturesque, being cut
into small ravines. Just around us the ground is more level,
with here and there a flat-topped hill rising from the plain.
On one of these hills — which are of sandstone — the fort of
this place is built. Gwalior is a native state, under the pro
tectorate of England. The Maharaja has a beautiful place
here, which we saw in the distance this morning. After
breakfast, which we obtained at the station, we drove over

GWALIOR. 187
to the entrance at the foot of the rock. There we were met
by a huge elephant, which was to take us up the steep road
to the fortress and all around through it. We mounted by
means of a ladder, with fear and trembling, and it was a
strange feeling for a while to be up so high on that huge
mountain of moving flesh. Poor Mamma, particularly, was
very much frightened, as were all of us for that matter.
But we were together, and that was one comfort, so we clung
tightly to the iron rail which ran' around the saddle. Coming
down it was not at all bad. The elephant was a huge beast
and walked as carefully and steadily as could be. There was
a palace and several temples to be seen, most beautifully
carved in Hght-colored sandstone. In the palace were a
great many beautiful blue, yellow and green tiles set into
the stone. I am very tired, as Isabel and I walked a good
deal from one place to another on top of the fort. This
fort is not occupied now, except by the troops and prisoners.
I am going to take a nap until the train for the north comes
along and picks us up — about four.

CHAPTER XIII.
Northbrook Hotel, Delhi, India,
Sunday Evening, December 29, 1895.
We are settled once more for a few days. Left Gwalior
at four yesterday afternoon, and passed the night comfortably
in the cars. At nine we reached Agra, where we had a
horrible dinner. We hoped to get a glimpse of the Taj,
but did not, even though it was bright moonlight, because
of the smoky atmosphere. At three this morning we were
pushed onto a sidetrack again here at Delhi, and our train
steamed away northward. SuCh a time as we had finding
rooms this morning! We went to three hotels, but they
were all full. I do not know the reason, but suspect it
just happened that a good many travelers had arrived here
together. At last we found a place, where we were about
the only guests. Mamma, Isabel and I went to church at
eleven, dropping the others among the bazaars. I went
back later to bring the gentlemen home, and found the
shops so interesting that I stayed also. Nice Sunday work t
I am getting to be a perfect heathen. This afternoon we
drove outside the city to the old site of Delhi, and saw a
number of ruins, tombs, etcetera. Some of them were very
beautiful, and others, to me, most uninteresting. There
was one — the tomb of Shah Jehan's father — which was a
little like the Taj in outline. I think that the Taj was mod
eled after it.
It is needless to say that we are very tired to-night.
Poor Isabel is suffering from a severe cold, and we are alt
tired out, after two nights on those uncomfortable cars.

DELHI. 189
We are the seediest-looking crowd, too, except Papa and
William, perhaps, as our clothes are about worn out. It
does not matter much, though, for the dust would soon
ruin good things, even if we had them. I suppose by the
time that we get to Madras we can don our summer clothing
once more, of which we have a better supply than for winter.
Delhi, Monday Evening, December 30, 1895.
We have been trotting, as usual, all day. First we
went to a large mosque, then to the fort to see the palaces.
Agra has rather spoiled us, I fear» for nothing seems so
magnificent as it did there. However, all are beautiful, and
we do enjoy them. Since our sightseeing we have been
shopping, and such lovely things in ivory and embroidery
you never saw. Tuesday Evening, December 31, 1895.
We came home from an excursion out of town early this
afternoon, and have had a little rest, which we very much
needed. Poor Mamma is having quite a hard time with a
sprained hand; she hurt it while on the elephant in Gwalior
and has taken cold in it.
We saw that beautiful red sandstone tower to-day — the
Kolb-Miner. It is well worth driving twenty or twenty-two
miles to see. On the way home we stopped at an old ruined
fort to see a mosque. Within the walls of the fort was a
town of ruined huts, and many a picturesque sight we saw
as we wandered among the narrow streets. We have been
busy, too, tracing and figuring out our trip from Bradshaw.
But I never could understand timetables. Our Inter Oceans
came yesterday, and the contents are being devoured. The
mail comes very regularly; we have missed only two letters.
Just think ! there is hardly time now for us to get answers
to our letters. A week ago we were still in Agra, and how
much we have seen since then. To-morrow we go to
Amritsar and Lahore, and then south once more and on to
Bombay.

190 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
This is New Year's Eve, but we are not going to see the
old year out, but will be sleeping peacefully instead.
Lahore (in the Punjab District),
Thursday Evening, January 2, 1896.
It hardly seems possible that we are away off here
in the northwest corner of India. We have now reached
our northern limit, and shall be glad to turn southward
to warmer climate; we feel the cold very much. Flowers
are in bloom everywhere, however — roses, jasmine, Christ
mas flowers, and all kinds in great abundance. Palms flour
ish and the other foliage is much heavier here than in Agra
and Delhi. Still we are only just comfortable with the
heaviest winter clothing that we have with us.
The journey from Delhi was a very hard one. We
were on an express train, and the swift motion made the
car rock so that we slept very little. At three in the morn
ing this place was reached, and we had to get off. The moon
was at its full, bathing the earth in its silvery light. I am
afraid that we were not in a mood to appreciate its glory;
but even so, the picture it left is with us yet. The still,
white streets, lined with dark foliage, the houses behind in
the darkness, with here and there a spot of the stonework
lighted by the silvery light, or the natives' buildings, rising
abruptly from the road, casting their dark shadows, and a
still figure crouching in some angle fast asleep. We went
to bed and slept until breakfast, after which the sights of
the town were "done" until time for tiffin. There was a
mosque, two tombs and a fort to see; all quite interesting.
I, for one, am tired of sightseeing, and even Papa asked if
these were not the last tombs we had to see. Lahore is a
very pretty place, mostly modem now, though there has
been a city here for centuries. The caravans come through
from Afghanistan and the Khaibar Pass.
This afternoon we have been among the native bazaars,
and such a treat as we had — almost indescribable, I am afraid.
The people were so picturesque, and the little open shops so

GOLDEN MOSQUE — .\MRITS-\R.

AMRITSAR. 191
interesting. Above the latter were the small latticed bay
windows, and in a good many sat the women dressed in
their finery; we had not seen this before. The women here
wear queer-shaped, loose trousers, tight-fitting at the ankles,
where they lie in folds, and wrinkling at the hips. But the
whole costume when put together is rather pretty — the flow
ing head-dress and jingling jewelry and the loose trousers.
Isabel and I are trying to make a collection of the different
Indian costumes; it is quite interesting. This afternoon, in
the bazaars, we had a crowd of women about us as we
invested in cheap, showy jewelry. They tried things on
for us, showing where each piece ought to be put. Some
of the women were quite pretty, and we spent a pleasant hour
with them. Of course we could not understand one word
that each other spoke, but the sign-language was very ex
pressive. This is the country of the Sikhs, the best-looking people
in India. They are large in physique, and are the most
warlike. Amritsar, India,
Friday Evening, January 3, 1896.
I am seated before a large wood fire, in our queer, high-
ceiled room. The windows — small, round ones — are about
twelve feet from the floor.
We came from Lahore this morning ; it is only an hour's
ride. This afternoon has been spent at the Golden Temple,
the only "sight" here, but one of the most picturesque places
that we have seen in all our travels. In the center of a
large tank of water stands this small temple, covered with
gold. Around the tank is a wide marble walk, and a marble
bridge leads over to the temple. To-day is the Sabbath
here and an extra holiday, so everyone is in his best attire.
The Sikhs have a religion entirely distinct from the Moham
medan or Hindoo; I do not know just what it is, but it is
caHed "Granth." The service is very interesting. They sit on
the floor of the central room in the temple, in a circle; at
least the men do. Some sing and some play on instruments.

192 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
In the center of the ring are scattered money, grain and flow
ers. The women march around on the outside of the circle
and throw flowers, etcetera. Birds come in unmolested and
eat their fill. We were given little cups of rock sugar, which
was considered very nice indeed. Oh, the gorgedusness
of the whole scene! I never have seen anything like it. It
was beautiful, as nothing was tawdry — everything very rich.
The costumes of the women were particularly handsome,
and such a feast of color ! After we left the temple we drove
slowly through the narrow, crooked streets^ seeing the native
life, the tiny shops and the busy people. The streets are not
quite so picturesque as in Lahore, but are very interesting.
Amritsar, India,
Saturday Evening, January 4, 1896.
I think that I shall send this letter to-night, as Amritsar
is an out-of-the-way place, and maybe the stamp will be a
little different in this part of India,
We have been shopping all day. This is the place for
the beautiful cashmeres, which are so soft and lovely; bale
after bale of shawls and portieres, all covered with fine
needlework of the softest wool, and in the beautifully blended
colors. There are curious wares, too, from Afghanistan and
Persia — vases of leather and wood, decorated in gorgeous
colors. The rugs are very handsome here also, but we are
not sorry that we made our selection in Agra. There is
one place here where there are looms stretching for a mile
or more in a straight line. We leave for Jaipur to-night.
Jaipur, India, Monday, January 6, 1896.
We are at last in Jaipur, where it is moderately warm,
much to our comfort. All Saturday night and yesterday,
until ten o'clock last evening, we were on the way from
Amritsar. Fortunately the train was very comfortable, and
there was not so much dust as when we went up. I think
that we are making splendid time. We have done Delhi,
Lahore and Amritsar within a week, and there were long
distances between. I wonder what this week wiH accomplish.

JAIPUR. 193
We had such a funny experience the other night with
an English woman at Amritsar. It was at the dinner-table,
and she sat opposite to us. She had been in America — at
least ten years ago — and could not say enough against our
sleeping-cars. Said that she much preferred the cars here,
for they gave one more privacy. Imagine thinking that these
dirty, barn-Hke compartments, with all their inconveniences,
were better than our luxurious Pullman sleepers!
We are watching the papers very closely to see how the
disturbances in Venezuela are going to terminate. We get
a little news, and that only through the English papers; it
is very unsatisfactory. We shall know more about it, per
haps, when we reach Bombay.
Jaipur, Tuesday Morning, January 7, 1896.
We were busy all day yesterday, and saw a great deal
of this place. It is an independent state, as in Gwalior.
I do not know whether it is under the same Maharaja
or not. A great many of the buildings here are painted pink,
which gives the streets quite a gay appearance. We saw
a beautiful garden, zoo and museum yesterday, and also
went through part of the palace, its garden, stables and
crocodile tank. The stables contained three hundred beau
tiful horses and several huge fighting elephants. The croco
diles were ugly creatures, as they came to the side of the
tank where we were standing, holding their cavern-like,
tongueless mouths open for some food. We were glad that
there was no possibility of their climbing out to us, for it
would not take more than one snap of those jaws to break
every bone in one's body.
There are several Americans in this little hotel, all of
whom have come from Europe, and look so nice and fresh in
their new clothes. It makes us feel very shabby. Such
disreputable-looking beings as your friends the Greenlees are
now! I wonder if our acquaintances at home would recog
nize us. ,
13

194 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Later: I have been taking a nap, and have been wak
ened by some men selling armor, swords, etcetera, which
they call old. They are such a bother! The doors leading
out on our porch are only made of cotton cloth, so every
word can be heard, and, of course, I could not sleep after
they began their bargaining.
This morning we went out to a palace at Amber. It
was a very pleasant drive among the low hills, with old and
deserted palaces on either hand, surrounded by heavy foliage.
At the foot of a hill we mounted the backs of some ele
phants — our second ride. These were huge beasts; I know
that the one Mamma and Papa were on was as large as
Jumbo. This road was not as steep as at Gwalior, but much
longer, two miles, I think. It was very fine, especially after we
sighted the palace on the side of a hiH, which was mostly of
yellow stucco, but looked pretty in the distance. A lake
glimmered at the foot of the hill, with half-ruined summer-
houses and pavilions here and there along its brink. Above
towered a fort, looking grim and fierce with its straight black
outlines. Part of the palace, inside, was very beautiful, with
some rooms gorgeously inlaid with numbers of convex mir
rors. It is sometimes called the "Glass Palace" for that
reason. We are off again to-night, and are already packed. The
first bell has rung for dinner. It is very pleasant to feel
that we are among so many Americans; there must be at
least nine besides our party. We have been by ourselves so
much, that it seems strange to meet those of our own tongue
and country; it really seems as though we had been out of
the world for months, but we shall soon be in it again. We
will arrive at Bombay in about a week, and I hope that a
large package of mail is waiting for us. Mount Abu, India,
Thursday Morning, January 9, 1896.
We are up among the mountains, and the air is so
sweet and fresh. Tuesday night we took the train at Jaipur,

MOUNT ABU. 195
and yesterday at noon saw us at the station called Abu
Road. We found the air much warmer, almost too warm
for comfort in our heavy clothing. After tiffin, which we
had at the station, we started at three to come here. Papa
and William rode ponies, the rest of us 'm jinrikishas, pushed
and pulled by six coolies each. The road was very dusty
and the foliage dried to a chip. Across the plain we went,
and after a few miles began to ascend the ridge of hills which
rose abraptly from the level ground. It seemed queer that
this group of hills should be so isolated, as the country was
perfectly flat everywhere about. Gradually the foliage on
the trees became greener, and the views as we wound in
and out were more varied. It really was an enjoyable ride,
but the darkness came upon us while we were only half way
up, and the beauty was hidden. On we went, past groups
of natives over their campfires, under heavy masses of
foliage or overhanging rocks. The whole picture was very
weird in the dense darkness, with only the bright stars as
lights, but these were intensely brilliant in contrast. After
a while it seemed as though we must soon reach our jour
ney's end, for we had been climbing a long time, and each
light we saw we thought must be our hotel, which always
proved to be some small hut, or only a fire at the side of the
road, however. It did seem such a long way. Papa
and William were nowhere to be seen, and we had only
Anodine for protection. I expected to see a tiger in our
path any moment, or feel some wild beast drop on my
shoulders, but not even a jackal cried, except once. On,
on, we went, and I came to the coiiclusion that we were
going on all night. At last we reached a large town, with
palms waving over it and very pretty looking streets. Then,
at the edge of the further side, and on top of a steep hill, we
at length came to the hotel. Papa and William were not
there, but they walked in presently. It seemed that they
had lost their way, and had been wandering about trying to
find the right road. It was ten o'clock when we arrived, but

196 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
we soon had a nice dinner, and pur rooms were very com
fortable, so it was not long before everyone was sleeping
peacefully. We are only just up now, and are waiting for break
fast. It is so beautiful here, and we are anxious to get
out of doors and see more.
Later: This morning we spent among the most inter
esting temples here. As soon as we had finished breakfast
our jinrikishas were ready, and we rode about two or three
miles down the valley to the low, whitewashed, uninterest
ing-looking buildings. The interiors, however, were ex
tremely beautiful, with carving in every nook and comer;
really the most massive work we have seeru This g^oup of
temples belongs to the Jain sect of religion, which is neither
Buddhism nor Hindooism, but in many respects is a little like
both. I believe the faith sprang up about the time of
Buddha. We were very much interested in these temples,
and felt more than repaid for our long ride of yesterday.
We are gathered now in the sitting-room of the hotel,
with its windows overlooking the town. The hotel, being
on a hill, commands a beautiful view. In the hollow,
just at one side, lies a tiny lake, surrounded by a path and
overhung with a few trees; the foliage is not very dense
here. There are numerous pretty villas scattered about, with
gardens around them, I imagine that this is quite a resort
in the hot season. Through a gap in the hills which encircle
this valley or basin can be seen the plain below, stretching
miles and miles away.
There are two very pleasant American ladies here, who
have just come. They are from Boston. Almadabad, India,
Friday Night, January lo, 1896.
Only a line to-night, for we are all very tired, and our
accommodations are so crude that there is but little light
to see to write by.

BOMBAY. 197
This morning early our jinrikishas took us down the
mountain, and after a delightful ride in the clear air we
reached the station just in time for a light tiffin and catch
the twelve-thirty train. We arrived at this place at night
fall, and are now domiciled in our first dak bungalow, or
government resthouse. It is not very elegant, and I do not
think we shall spend more than one night here.
Apollo Hotel, Bombay, India,
Sunday, January 12, 1896.
Yesterday was spent in exploring Almadabad, where
we found some beautifully carved temples and tombs, but
nothing very remarkable otherwise. The streets were alive
with picturesquely dressed natives. It was all very interest
ing, and we have carried away many pictures of the gay
nooks and corners of the streets, overhanging latticed win
dows, and curious small shops filled with gay stuffs, bright
jewelry, or fruit and grain. In the afternoon William and
Isabel went off by themselves to see some places they had
been looking up in the guidebook, while the rest of us spent
a quiet afternoon resting. It was decidedly lonesome, how
ever, and we were glad when the time came to go to the
station and takt the train. Our accommodations in the
cars last night were anything but comfortable, as the train
was very full, and we had to manage as best we could. We
are glad to be here and have our trunks once more, and
feel that we can stay as long as we wish. I think we shall
remain a week at least, for there are numberless things to
do — last bits of shopping, repacking and sending off some
boxes to London, besides the sights to be seen. Bombay
is the most metropolitan place we have found anywhere.
There are beautiful public buildings, wide streets and pretty
gardens. The hotels are poor, however, though we are quite
comfortable. To-morrow we shall get our large trunks and our mail.
Oh, how glad we shall be to hear from home !

198 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING. !
Bombay, Monday Afternoon, January 13, 1896.
A package of mail was received to-day, and we have
been devouring its contents. It did seem so good to hear
from all of you.
There is not much of interest to see here, for which
I am devoutly thankful, and we are enjoying the rest and
quiet. Tuesday Night, January 14, 1896.
This day has been spent in shopping, trying to replenish
our dilapidated wardrobes; the stores are quite good here.
The weather is very warm, too, so we are in summer clothing
once more. The native shops are most interesting, and we
have found some pretty silver articles.
A young man from Beloit — a friend of William's^ — called
this evening. He and his mother have been just behind us
across the continent. Thursday, January 16, 1896.
Yesterday afternoon we made an excursion to the caves
of Elephanta. The little steam launch in which we, with
several other Americans went, left at three, and after an
hour's sail landed at the pretty wooded island. The trip
was very pleasant, as we passed the large ships at anchor
in the harbor and several small islands covered with tropical
vegetation. The tide was out when we reached Elephanta,
so that we could not get near the landing, and had to be
transferred to small boats. From these we stepped onto
some stone piles, and walked until dry land was finally
reached. There we took chairs, and were carried up a long
flight of steps to the temples. These temples are hewn out
of the solid rock, and are not at all beautiful, but must have
been impressive at one time. The huge figures, which
are partly demolished, even yet are remarkable; of course,
they are very, very old. It was quite dark before we
returned to Bombay.
I will mail this letter to-morrow, and begin a new one,
to be posted in Ceylon.

CHAPTER XIV, Wadi, India,
Sunday Noon, January 19, 1896.
We have been traveling ever since yesterday morning,
and have only stopped noW at this little station to change
cars. Needless to say, we are tired.
After my last letter was posted on Friday we drove
out to the Towers of Silence, the cemetery of the Parsees.
These great white walled affairs, where they expose dead
bodies to the vultures, stand in a large garden. It is rather
disappointing in every way. The garden is dried up, and
without any beauty except its situation, which is very fine.
It Hes on the summit of a hill, and commands a beautiful
view of the city and bay. The towers we could only see
from a distance, as no profane foot is allowed to go near,
except those who carry the dead — no, I mean it would
pollute the living to go any nearer to the place.
On our way home we passed a small, open square fiUed
with seats and having buildings at either end. We saw a
great many people there and stopped to inquire. It was
a Parsee marriage celebration, and we were invited to enter.
The gentlemen remained in the court, but the rest of us
were ushered into the building on the left, where the ladieS
were congregated. They were all dressed in beautiful robes
of silk, draped gracefillly about their figures and over the
head. Under this drapery they wear long, colored silk
pantaloons and a regular tight-fitting satin waist, and I
believe they even indulge in corsets. The overgarment is
several yards long, and is edged with beautiful embroidery.
199

200 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
This is the only beautiful thing about the costume, however,
for the rest of it is stiff. The women are not at all pretty, as
a rule. We had a good opportunity to see their clothes,
as two or three went through some sort of ceremony while
we sat in the room, part of which consisted in changing
the whole costume. The little girls leave off the long drap
ery and appear in their silken drawers, reaching about to
the shoe tops, which makes them look awkward. It was
nearly dark when we all marched over to the other house
on the opposite side of the square, where we again seated
ourselves and watched proceedings. There were two chairs
in the center of the room, facing each other, which they told
us were for the bride and groom. Presently the bride
walked in and changed her costume, the same as the other
women had done. She now had on a robe of that beautiful
rainbow silk they make in Japan, with an embroidered
border. She was a little, round-faced girl, not at all pretty
and very small. The Parsees are Persians, you know, and
Isabel says she thinks that they look just like the pictures
in "Arabian Nights." After a while the groom made his ap
pearance and took one of the chairs, and after another delay
the bride sat down; there seemed to be no order or system
about anything. A piece of white cloth was stretched
between the bride and groom, so that they could not see
each other; then their hands were bound together with a
piece of string, and then their shoulders. (I do not know
that you can form much of an idea from my description.)
Rice was thrown, and all the people shouted. The white
cloth was taken down and the little bride moved her chair
to the left of her husband. There was a ring used some
time during the ceremony, but I could not see just when.
After all this the priest chanted in a low voice and threw
rice. The poor things had to sit on those chairs until two
o'clock in the morning, with some kind of a ceremony going
on during the entire time; but this was aU that we saw.
The people began to move out of the room and across

MADRAS. 201
the court to a long hall, we following them, where we found
long tables spread and the guests eating the good things
before them. There were no tablecloths, and no dishes save
bananas leaves, and everyone ate with his fingers. I could
not tell you of all the things we had to eat, but one was
fried eggs.
Yesterday morning at eight o'clock we took the train
for Poona, reaching there at two. We drove at once to
Pundita Ramabai's Home for Indian Widows, and went all
over it. Saw Pundita, and had a long talk with her.
There was one thing she said that surprised us greatly and
pleased us also, and that was she had all the money to use
that she wanted. The home is well kept, has beautiful gar
dens and pleasant, airy rooms, and all the women look
happy. We then visited one of the Methodist missions, and
met a very pleasant lady. I think that almost every denomi
nation of the Christian church is represented in the mission
compound. Poona is a pretty place, but seems to have little
life; perhaps we were not there long enough to judge. At
six our train left, and after a long night's ride we arrived
at this little uninteresting junction at noon.
As we left Bombay yesterday our road led through the
mountains, some parts of which were grand and beautiful.
Then the central plateau was reached, and the flat open land
again met our vision, and now the country all about is most
uninteresting. Madras, India,
Monday Noon, January 20, 1896.
After our long journey from Bombay we are having a
good rest. Madras is a very pretty place, as we could judge
from this morning's inspection. The country is quite flat
hereabout, but the city has a great number of fine buildings
and residences, with large, well-kept gardens about them.
Everything is spread over a good deal of ground, so that
the distances from one place to another are great. Thus far
we have only seen the European portion, but will visit

202 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
"Blacktown," or the native district, this afternoon. The
weather is warm here, and we have to take great care and
not expose ourselves to the sun. The heat is grateful, how
ever, after our cold trip through the North.
We saw a very old church this morning, one of the
first built in India. There are a number of interesting land
marks of the early EngHsh and French occupation of India,
and also a fine museum. Pondicherry, India,
Tuesday Evening, January 21, 1896.
We are in such a funny, dead-alive place. It is decid
edly French, not at all like the English towns we have been
in, and is a delightful change. It is a very pretty place,
however, containing wide, shady streets and low houses;
most of the latter are of native construction. Very few
Europeans are to be seen, and the public buildings are quite
unpretentious. There are only about four horses in the
whole city, and these belong to private individuals. A small
carriage — something like a baby's carriage with canopy top,
and holding two comfortably — is used by everyone. These
are pushed from behind by two coolies, and are steered by
a long handle in front, which is connected with the front
wheels. We saw a few of these vehicles in Madras, but
they had only three wheels; these have four and are much
prettier. We have changed servants. The boys we had in North
ern India were from Calcutta, and did not wish to come
here, so we sent them home from Bombay. Yesterday, in
Madras, we engaged another, but I do not think that he
is as good as the others, for they were unusually competent,
especially Anodine. This man is fine-lookifig, very black and
dresses in spotless white. The men dress very well here, in
such graceful draperies, pink and white seeming to be the
favorite combination. You would enjoy the children, I
know, for they are the dearest little things, usually without
any clothing to cover their naked, black bodies, and they

TANJORE. 203
are so pretty, with their jewelry, big black eyes and curls.
The women, too, I think, are prettier than in the north. The
Southern Indians seem to be of a different race altogether,
with thicker features and higher cheek bones, but are very
black. This morning we left Madras at six o'clock, coming
along the coast. The foliage was very luxuriant, and the
fields full of grain and vegetables. All the stations were
thronged with people, making a beautiful picture in bright
colors. Our hotel here is a queer kind of a place, built in a
massive manner and of stone. I do not think it was intended
for a hotel. It is clean, however, and the food good. Papa
bought us a nice tiffin basket in Bombay, so we shall not
have to depend on the railway restaurants for food, as here
tofore. I know we shall like it much better than having
so much hot meat. Tanjore, India,
Thursday, January 23, 1896.
We have just finished our breakfast on the wide, shady
porch of this little dak bungalow. We fill the whole house
with our numerous family, but then it contains only two
sleeping-rooms, with small dressing-rooms off. It is clean
and very comfortable in most respects, but our beds are
like boards. We left Pondicherry yesterday morning at ten. On
the train we became acquainted with a French Catholic
priest and a wealthy native family, with whom we occupied
the same compartment. The wife was a little beauty, and
dressed very richly in handsome stuffs, with gorgeous jewels ;
she was only seventeen. Her Httle boy was very pretty also.
She was a Christian and her name "Marie Rose;" is it not a
pity to give them European names?
The ride during the day was very charming, through
rich farming lands, with rice, sugar-cane, bananas, and espe
cially peanuts, in abundance; great quantities of the latter

204 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
are shipped from Pondicherry. The country here seems
like Java, only much more level.
This morning we have been to see some temples, and
a huge wrought-iron cannon bound with brass. The latter
particularly interested Papa, as he could not understand how
these people, with their few appliances, could have welded
the huge mass of iron into its present form. It is said to
be twenty-four feet five inches long, with an outside circum
ference of ten feet three inches, and a bore of two feet two
inches. It is a curious-looking affair and very old, made
under the rule of the old kings. I believe it has been fired
but once, when the inhabitants were warned by beat of
drum to leave the town. The fuse was two miles long, and
it took forty minutes to reach the gun. All went well. It
is the palladium of the fort, and was worshiped in hours of
peril. The Indian temples here are not so beautiful in outline
as the graceful mosques and tombs we saw in the North.
They are very angular and covered with innumerable fig
ures, but are most picturesque and thoroughly Indian.
We saw Uncle Ralph's name, and the others, in some
books in several places this morning. I wonder if they
heard the band that is just now trying to play outside. It
is attempting classical music, but I fear no one knows
what it is.
Later: This afternoon has been spent in a most inter
esting palace. There is no king here, of course, as the
English are in possession, and the late sovereign died some
years ago, but there are several wives and other women
who belonged to the old king's household stiH living in
the palace, and all the buildings are in good order. We
were shown over this palace from the chambers of state to
the stables, and were very much interested.
We leave to-night for further south.

TUTICORIN. 205
Royal Hotel, Tuticorin, India,
Sunday Morning, January 26, 1896.
It has been one grand rush from one place to another,
and there has been no time to write for several days. We
left Tanjore Thursday night at nine o'clock, reaching Trich-
inopoli at eleven. There we found a very comfortable sta
tion-house, and passed a good night.
The most noticeable object in TrichinopoH is the huge
granite rock which rises abruptly from the plain. On top
of this is a temple, which, of course, we had to visit. There
are six hundred steps cut in the rock, but they are easy to
climb, and almost the whole distance is under cover, as there
are shows and booths of every description. We had a glori
ous view from the summit of the whole country around.
The largest Hindoo temple in Southern India is situated in
this place. It is very large — in fact, contains a good-sized
town within its walls, but the most of it is not in use and
is half ruined. The gateways stand, however, and are the
most conspicuous part of the whole. The streets are very
picturesque. Yesterday, at Madura, we saw the most interesting
things we have found in Southern India. The temple there
is very beautiful, being in almost perfect preservation, and
much more graceful in outline than any other we have seen.
There is a very handsome palace also. The latter is now
used as a town hall, and is kept in excellent repair. We went
all through the temple, where there were shrines innumer
able, a beautiful marble-lined tank and all sorts of trinketry
for sale. There were picturesque nooks and comers every
where, but the one thing that pleased us most was a tiny
baby elephant, only a few months old, which was led out for
our inspection by his attendant.
One of the native Christian preachers called upon us
while there. We were sorry not to be able to visit the
missionaries in Madura, as all of them are Americans, but

20.6 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
there was no time. We heard that a new house was being
built as a memorial to Mrs. N  .
This is a sleepy old town on the southern coast of
India, almost at the point of the peninsula. Our little hotel
is right on the beach, with the waves breaking just under
our windows. The sea is as calm as can be, and I hope
that it will continue so for a few days, so that we can go
to Colombo in peace and quiet. The sky is cloudy this morn
ing for the first time since we left Penang, two months ago,
and really we are enjoying the change from the bright sun
light. There are no other guests here except an English
clergyman, with whom we had a brisk discussion last even
ing at dinner over the Anglo-American matter.
We hope to sail to-day, but are not sure of a boat
stopping. You know the English often stop traffic on Sun
day, and the daily boat from here to Ceylon does not run
to-day. We are hoping that a coasting steamer may come,
and think one is in sight now, and if so we shall be par
ticularly fortunate, for it will be better than the local vessel.
Tuticorin, India,
Monday Morning, January 27, 1896.
You see we did not get off yesterday, after all. The
steamer we thought might take us was going to Calcutta.
However, we go to-day without a doubt. It is very early^
only eight in the morning, and I am sitting in the little parlor
of the hotel. It is all open in front, and is really a large
porch, with tables, chairs, etcetera. There are bamboo cur
tains hung between the massive arches, to shade from the
glare of the sun. Outside is the principal street of the
town, and then comes the water. The latter is very bright
this morning, and not a cloud to be been. There is not
one thing to look at here, except the sea, as this is only a
tiny seacoast town, which is kept alive principally, I imagine,
by the travel from Ceylon.
We went for a drive yesterday afternoon, but there was

CEYLON. 207
nothing of interest, even in the outlying country. After
that, church was attended to hear our fellow-boarder preach.
I told you that he and Papa had a discussion over the Vene
zuelan question, and he expressed his opinion very strongly
about Americans. Well, would you believe it, he was so
mean in church yesterday as to take advantage of our en
forced silence to thrust his opinions upon this same subject
right down our throats. It was very funny, and we could
scarcely keep our faces straight. Not a word was said,
however, on the subject at the dinner-table that night.
There is not much use in discussing the question, anyway.
Grand Oriental Hotel, Colombo, Ceylon,
Tuesday Morning, January 28, 1896.
We are really here at last; arrived this morning after a
fairly comfortable night. The trip across from Tuticorin
was not so bad as we expected, though the boat was small.
There were cockroaches and ants by the thousands, and
poor Isabel was in misery. It was a little rough, too, so
that we all felt a trifle uncomfortable; but we did not have
to sleep on deck or be lashed to the sides of the boat, as
some people had tried to make us believe. The worst part
of the whole trip was going from the shore to the vessel in
a huge fishing-boat, which was more like an enormous wash-
tub than anything else. We were crowded into this thing
with all sorts and conditions of men, and it was decidedly un
pleasant. The sea was rough enough, too, to make it some
what difficult to reach the steps at the side of the vessel.
However, we dropped anchor in the commodious harbor
quite early this morning, and after a little delay came direct to
the hotel. We are within a stone's throw of the landing-
place, so as yet have seen nothing of the city. We shall
remain here about a week, probably, and then sail for
Europe. This letter will catch a boat going out to-day,
I think.

208 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Grand Oriental Hotel, Colombo, Ceylon,
Thursday, January 30, 1896.
The days we now have in India — or rather Ceylon —
are numbered, and some time will pass before another letter
is mailed to you. We are having a good rest here, and have
done some shopping — our last purchases in the "Far East ;"
it hardly seems possible. Sunday we expect to leave for
Marseilles direct by the French Mail.
Tuesday morning we were very busy getting into our
new quarters, where we found everything comfortable. This
is the best hotel — except the "Grand" at Yokohama — in
the East. In the afternoon we went for a drive, and saw
some of the beauties of Colombo. It is a lovely place — ^palms
and flowers everywhere. The natives have been spoiled by
travelers, however; are very bold and troublesome and rather
interfered with our pleasure. Yesterday was spent in shop
ping and packing. It is extremely warm here, even in our
thinnest clothing, but the heat is so agreeable.
Friday Night, January 31, 1896.
To-day we have been to Kandy and back — ;a most
enjoyable excursion. Ceylon is much like Java in many
ways, but thus far we think it more beautiful. Yesterday
afternoon we took our second drive about Colombo, and
enjoyed it more than the first; the long beach was particu
larly lovely, with the huge breakers coming in and the even
ing sun glowing over the waves. I think that the beauty of
this place grows upon us.
This moming our train for Kandy left at eight, so we
had only early tea at the hotel, and took our breakfast later
on the train. We began to ascend almost immediately, and
the views were grand — the sweeping vision of hills, covered
with dense foliage, and the waving grain-fields in all stages
of growth. Kandy was reached about eleven-thirty, and
of course we drove all about it. The place has been beauti
fully taken care of, as it is a great resort and show-place

CEYLON. 209
for travelers. It seemed to me like the English resorts,
with their winding, well-kept roads, and everything culti
vated to seem natural, but still with the air of cultivation
about it. The road we took led along a lovely little lake
to a Buddhist temple. It was a very old temple, and the
most remarkable features about it to us were the old paint
ings on the walls. These represented the punishments that
the wicked underwent after they had finished this life, and
were so much like the beliefs of some Christians that it was
startling. There is a very beautiful Botanical garden near
Kandy, which we visited, and also a large tea factory. The
tea is so cleanly handled in Ceylon, all by machinery — quite a
different process from that used either in Japan or China,
Colombo, Saturday Evening, February i, 1896,
All of the others are downstairs keeping cool and listen
ing to the band which is "holding forth." There is a large
stag-dinner here to-night, and we have enjoyed being in
the balcony sitting-room, which surrounds the dining-room,
and watching proceedings. I am there now, but the ban
quet is nearly over, so there is not as much noise.
We have not been out of the house to-day, but have
been packing and getting ready for our long sea voyage.
The air has been most oppressive, and the least exertion
tires one very much, and thus everything has to be done
leisurely, I can scarcely realize that probably to-morrow
night we shall be on board the steamer en route to Paris —
our long-looked-forward-to Paris.

CHAPTER XV.
Steamship Sydney M. M., Colombo Harbor,
Sunday Night, Febmary 2, 1896,
We expected to be off at five, but we are still at anchor,
and it does not look as though we should move all night.
The steamer is crowded, but the passengers, of course, are
mostly French, with a few Dutch and English. This boat
is the sister ship to the Natal, upon which we went from
Shanghai to Hongkong.
This morning Mamma, Isabel and I went to the Gar
rison Church, next door to the hotel, and heard some very
good singing. At three we came on board. There was a
little confiision getting our staterooms, but at last we were
settled, and I think we shall be very comfortable. There are
some cunning little French children on board, and some of
the ladies are very pleasant looking. I wonder if we shall
make many friends ; three weeks is a long time.
Arabian Sea,
Monday Evening, Febmary 3, 1896.
We are out on the broad Arabian Sea, steaming very
fast. We left last night as soon as the moon was up, so
that the way could be clearly seen. The harbor was very
beautiful, with its encircling line of twinkling lights. I
could look through the large, square porthole from my posi
tion in the upper berth and watch the ships as we glided
quietly by them.
To-day has been spent on deck, reading, sewing and
watching the passengers. We had our chairs on a raised

^ia.^«i^

ARABIAN SEA. 211
portion of the deck, away at the stern. They have a fashion
here of keeping the awnings down close around the deck,
and Mamma dislikes it. She wants to be able tO' see out
over the waters, and that is the reason we took such an
elevated position,, as the awnings were raised just there.
The weather is extremely warm and the sea like molten lead,
but the sun is not very bright. At our table are some pleas
ant English people — an old man, at least sixty or seventy,
and a young wife, who cannot be more than thirty ; I thought
they were father and daughter at first. I have been reading
"Romance of History ;" it is about India, and is as interesting
as any novel. Papa has been buried in the , "Leavenworth
Case," and we have not heard a word from him all day.
This morning, very suddenly, we stopped — something
the matter with the engine, I think. It is a queer sensation
to stop out of sight of land. I believe that our captain is not
at all well, and is anxious to reach France, so we shall not
make any longer delays than possible.
Tuesday Night, February 4, 1896.
We have all felt a little under the weather to-day. I
think there must have been a storm somewhere; notwith
standing the sea appeared almost perfectly smooth, there
was a heavy swell, causing the boat to roll a great deal,
and all of us felt very sleepy. It has been a quiet day, with
absolutely nothing occurring. To-night we have been en
joying the music of a very good band ; I do not know where
it spmng from, but imagine it was volunteers from among
the passengers. There was some very good vocal music also.
The French people are so lively that it is a pleasure to
watch them. There is one very pretty woman on board, and
she has several lovely children.
Wednesday Night, February 5, 1896.
I can write only a line to-night, for the sea is very rough
and has been all day. We have been quiet, needless to say.
I do hope the wind may go down during the night.

212 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Thursday night, February 6, 1896.
It is still very rough, even more so than last night. It
is not a storm at all, for the sky is markedly clear, but a
strong wind is blowing. We are about at the mouth of
the Gulf of Aden, and I hope that by to-morrow we shall be
under the lee of the land. Poor Papa is feeling so miserable
that he has gone to bed. The rest of us are quite well.
There has been nothing to mark the whole day. The
Frenchmen upstairs on deck are having some sort of a
breakdown, judging from the noise. There is a piano there,
which seems to afford them a great deal of amusement.
They are such a lively people. Gulf of Aden,
Friday, February 7, 1896,
Our rough sea is over for a while, and we are more
comfortable, for a time at least. It was dreadful last night,
and none of us slept much. We seemed to be right in the
trough of the sea, and the wind coming from the northeast
struck us on the side, so we rolled terribly. About the middle
of this afternoon we got into the gulf and quiet waters.
This has been a very gay evening, and the fun is still
in progress on deck. The boat is prettily decorated with
flags and the decks cleared of chairs. The band has been
playing, and also someone at the piano ever since dinner, and
everyone has been dancing. There are very few ladies and
a great many gentlemen, so the tiny babies have been pressed
into service as partners. It was indeed interesting to look
upon their enjoyment. Ices and cakes were served, and
stronger refreshments for those who wished. Don't you
think we have been gay?
We are very thankful that the long stretch of our jour
ney is so nearly over. Henceforth we shall be pretty near
land, and the time will pass more quickly. It has not been
so very bad, however, for this boat is comfortable. The
food is very good, indeed, and everything clean and lux-

RED SEA. 213
urious. The dinners are regular table d'hote, but the others
are almost picnic style — with sardines, etcetera,
Aden, Saturday Night, February 8, 1896,
We are just off Aden, and expect to drop anchor soon.
We should have been in at six. This has been another quiet
day — warm enough for thin clothing, but not too hot. It
hardly seems pdssible that we have been on board almost a
week. AH during the night we shall be taking on coal, I
suppose, and there will not be much sleep for anyone. It
will seem good, however, to be quiet, without the constant
thumping of the screw.
I wish I had some interesting incident to relate to you,
but there is none. The French people seem to have a good
time, but the English and American members of the com
munity are very quiet. There are several Englishmen
aboard, but we have not become acquainted. There is one,
a nice-looking man, who seems rather inclined to speak, but
whether he is too shy or not I cannot decide. Papa and
William do not seem inclined to make his acquaintance, and
it is fun watching. The English people at our table are
very pleasant. These, and a Dutchman whom we met in
Java, are all the people that we speak to.
Red Sea, Sunday Night, February 9, 1896.
Last night was not so bad after all, though we had to
have the portholes closed to keep out the coal dust. I
do not think much was done after midnight. When we
went on deck early this morning there were innumerable
black Arabs on the boat and in small vessels alongside, try
ing to sell their wares — ostrich feathers, eggs, baskets, and
even a dear little fawn. The shore looked very fine from
the boat, rocky, in sharp jagged peaks, with sand gleaming
white in the sunlight. Not a blade of grass was visible any
where. At eight our anchor was up, but we have not been
out of sight of land since. It seems good to see a bit of

214 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
coast line, even though it is inaccessible. We passed the
fortified island of Perim this afternoon, and also a white,
phantom-like city off on the Arabian side. The sea is quite
rough, with numerous whitecaps, but fortunately we are
going with the wind and wave and are perfectly steady.
The sailors entertained us to-night with a procession in
fancy dress ; some of the costumes were very funny. There
is a concert in progress in the forward part of the boat,
; Red Sea, Monday Night, February lo, 1896,
This has been a very pleasant day, though I have been
so deeply engrossed in a novel that I have hardly known
what was going on. The air has been warm and the sea
smooth, but no land in sight.
There is a poor, motherless child among the third-class
passengers, whose father is taking her to England to find
a home for her. She is a pretty little thing about two years
of age, but most miserably clad, though the poor father does
all that he can to keep her neat. The mother was killed by
falling down the shaft of a mine. The child has taken a
great fancy to Mrs. V  (our English friend, who sits at
our table), and will not leave her, calling her "Mamma."
Several of the ladies who have children on board have con
tributed some clothing, and to-day was spent by Isabel
and Mrs. V  in dressing the child. She lets them do what
ever they like without a murmur, though she is a most rest
less little thing. Red Sea, Tuesday Night, February 11, 1896.
I wonder if we shall be in Marseilles a week from
to-night. Dear me, I hope so! It seems a month at least
since we came aboard, and yet, looking back, the time has
passed quickly.
The weather was very warm this morning, and we had
a nice little sewing-bee on deck. This afternoon the wind
suddenly changed, and now it is quite cold, with a strong

SUEZ CANAL. 215
wind blowing from the north. I guess we have seen the
last of the tropical heat, and I do not know whether to be
glad or sorry; am glad for one reason, and that is, it seems
more like our own climate at home. This morning we
passed very close to another French boat; that has been
our only excitement to-day, as there is no land in sight. Day
after to-morrow we shall probably be in the Suez Canal; it
wiU be calm there, anyway.
Red Sea, Wednesday, February 12, 1896.
I have been reading this long epistle over, and what a
"hit-or-miss" jumble it is.
The weather has been so cold to-day that we have had
to stir about to keep warm. The sea is rough, too, with
the wind just ahead. Land has been in sight, and a little
before sunset the mountains were very lovely. On the
Arabian side a high range could be seen, barren and very
rugged. The highest peak, the captain said, was Mount
Sinai, but we could not see the summit, as it was hidden by
clouds. The sea was quite narrow just there, with jagged
mountains coming out into the water and rocky islands.
The sunset was lovely, turning the mountains to a rosy pink.
We are going along very smoothly now, are in the Gulf of
Suez, I think, and are sheltered from the wind by the moun
tains. We had some pleasant walks on deck to-day, for this
cool weather makes everyone feel lively,
Suez Canal, Thursday, February 13, 1896,
We might be on land for all the motion there is to the
boat to-night. We were entering the canal when we arose
this morning, with Suez lying picturesquely under the brow
of the sandy cliff, on the left bank. All day we have sat
in the stern with our faces southward, and have had some
lovely views of the wide-stretching sands on either bank,
with now and then a large lake in the distance. The colors
are so varied and striking in this dry, clear air — blue, pink

216 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and gray in all shades. There is no country quite like Egypt.
I only wish we could go to Cairo, though I do not want to
take the time.
Our boat is still slowly steaming along, and we do not
expect to reach Port Said until ten or eleven, where we
remain three or four hours for coal, and then are off upon
the broad Mediterranean. It will be rough there without a
doubt for about five days. We think now that we shall
arrive at Marseilles by Tuesday morning.
Steamship Sydney, Mediterranean Sea,
Friday Night, February 14, 1896.
We are in rather rough waters now, and probably shall
be until we get into the harbor, some time Tuesday. Such
a noise as the people made last night getting off at Port
Said! Quite a number left us there, and the boat seems
deserted. I suspect that some are seasick, as the salon is
almost empty. The weather is very cold, and we stay below
most of the time to keep warm. We are well, though; I
guess our seasick days are over. However, I prefer the land
every time for comfort. Saturday, February 15, 1896.
Such a night as last night was — the sea was so rough!
This morning's light showed us the beautiful coast of Candia,
or Crete, and we have been skirting its shores during the
day. The mountains rose directly from the water's edge,
covered with snow on their peaks, but losing it as the shore
was reached. However, that made it seem a little like winter
to see so much snow, and the air was decidedly frosty. We
have been on deck most of the time to-day, either walking
briskly, or sitting bundled up in our heaviest wraps. Isabel
and I sleep until breakfast time nowadays. We used to
get up early and have tea, and then go on deck until break
fast. Now nine o'clock sees us getting about; it makes
the days shorter.

MEDITERRANEAN SEA. 217
The sea is beautifully calm, and I do hope that we shall
have a quiet night. The sunset was lovely — deep, black
clouds above the horizon, with beautiful crimson and orange
lights above. Mediterranean Sea,
Sunday Evening, February i6, 1896.
It is just before dinner, and the others have gone to
dress. I am sitting outside of my stateroom door, writing
on one of the long dining-tables, which is not in use as such,
but is at present a library, holding the books and daily
papers. We have had a rough, trying day. Last night the sea
was calm, and this morning, early, there was not a whitecap,
but very suddenly the wind blew and the rain came down
and we have rolled and tossed until about an hour ago. We
are now just off the south coast of Italy, quite close to land,
which looks so lovely. The clouds are hanging over the
mountains like a veil, but there is no sun. The wind is raw
and damp, and we have had hard work to keep warm ; indeed,
I went to bed this afternoon, I was so cold. While I lay
there peacefully there came a great crash, which I thought
was one of the large pots containing palms which stands in
the salon, falling ; later, however, I was informed that a port
hole had been burst in by a large wave, which created quite
an excitement for a few minutes. Mrs. V  , who was
ill in her stateroom, heard the crash, and, thinking that we
had struck a rock, came rushing out to her husband, for
getting that a few moments before she could not raise her
head from the pillow.
The Strait of Messina will be reached about dinner
time, so we are sure of a quiet meal at least.
Mediterranean Sea,
Monday Night, February 17, 1896.
This is our last night out, so far as we know. During
the past twelve hours the sea has again been rough. First,

218 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
it was very cold, arid the only way we could keep warm was
to remain in our berths, and then the boat tossed so that
we could not sleep. We were thankful enough when day
light came.
At eight o'clock this morning, when the new watch
came on, something was found wrong with the machinery,
and we stood still for a while. That was another fright, for
of course we passengers imagined all manner of things.
During the day we have been in smooth water, as our course
was changed so that we came under the lee of the land;
there has been a dim outline of coast in sight most of the
time. I wonder if we shall ever become accustomed to this
cold. We are about in line with Chicago now, but of course
you are in the depths of ice and snow, while in reality the
weather is perfect here ; it is only that we have come so sud
denly from midsummer that we mind it so much. To-day
has been beautiful, with bright, clear sunshine, and we have
had some long walks on deck in the bracing air.
Tuesday Morning, February i8, 1896.
I shall post this to-night, that it may go homeward
as fast as ever it can, and will then write again in Paris, as
soon as we get settled. We have had a restful night, and
are now in sight of the beautiful, broken coast of Southern
France. We have been trying to locate the different places,
as we can dimly see them, but are rather far away. It does
not seem possible that we are really here. We arrive about
noon probably, and will go on to Paris to-night. How nice
it will seem to be in a real city once more, though our ward
robes are in such a state that we are hardly fit to be seen.

CHAPTER XVI.
Madame Glatz' Pension, 45 Rue de Chicy, Paris,
Thursday, February 20, 1896.
This i^ the first moment I have had to write since we
came, and now there is a good deal to tell you. We landed
in Marseilles about noon Tuesday, and got through the
customhouse without any trouble. William had to remain
almost the w^hole of the afternoon at the wharf, however,
attending to the different things. The rest of us drove at
once to the station, and had luncheon at the hotel near.
Marseilles is very prettily situated on some hills, but we did
not try to see much of the town. The inhabitants all im
press us as very large, and the animals as well, especially
the horses, after seeing such small people for so many
months. Our train started at eight. We left William in
Marseilles, as he wished to do some sightseeing in the cities
of Southern France. The ride from Marseilles here was a
hard one, as the train was so crowded that we could not
get a sleeper, and were obliged to sit up all night. The com
partment was comfortable, only we could not lie down.
We arrived in Paris about nine, and after a good deal of
wandering about to find just the rooms we wanted, at last
came here. The place is full of Americans, and is very
pleasant. We were having a light breakfast in the dining-
room just after our arrival, when who should come into the
room but Mr. and Mrs. G  , friends of ours from Chicago.
They and five of the girls have been in Paris during the
winter, and you can imagine it was good to see them. There
is a school friend of Isabel's here also, and now we feel quite
219

220 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
at home. Our rooms are very comfortable, though small
for all our baggage, and the table exceptionally good. I
do not believe that I ever felt more tired than I did last
night, so Isabel and I went directly to bed after supper.
We have just missed seeing the "Mardi Gras," but there
are signs of it everywhere in the city. I wish we could have
been here. It does seem good to be in a real city again,
and we intend to enjoy it to the fullest extent. We have
been very busy to-day, as you can imagine, seeing about
obtaining something to wear. Our clothing in which we
have traveled a year is decidedly passe for this place, and
we have a great deal to do; everything is so fascinating
here, too.
We have had no mail, and cannot imagine where it has
gone, but hope it may come to-morrow. I will send a
letter off once a week — ^just think how few there will be.
We shall be more than busy with dressmakers, of course, and
there will be very little sightseeing. The fashions are quite
gay, especially in hats — flowers in abundance, such gardens
as some of them are ! Of course, it is a little early for sum
mer styles, but they are beginning to come. We are so
glad to be here before the rush, for we can take our time
and get better service. Madame Le L  , our modiste, is
very obliging, and everything is progressing finely. But,
oh, the clothes that we need — everything from top to toe!
There goes the dinner-beU, so I must close now. Will write
again next week. Paris, France, Friday, February 21, 1896.
A letter went off yesterday, though only a short one.
Such a lot of lovely letters as we received last night, and
such a good time as we had reading them.
There was a musicale and dancing party here in the
house last evening, and it was really quite entertaining. We
enjoy being with the G  s very much, and they have been
such a help to us in directing us where to go for wearing

PARIS. 221
apparel. I hardly know what we would have done without
their aid. They have been here ever since the autumn, so
know Paris pretty thoroughly. They go to Italy in a week
or two. The elder Miss G— - — is very fascinating, I think ;
she seems to be a great favorite in the house, and has a
lovely voice, which we hear occasionally when she practices
in an adjoining room.
We are all nervously tired out even yet, and are taking
everything quietly, not going out unless we want to do so,
and shall feel better in a few days. To-night we have been
down in the parlor playing "desperation." It seems so good
to be with congenial people once more. Of course, after
we are a little rested, we shall do some sightseeing, but I
do not care just now if I never see a "sight" again in my
Ufe. The streets are very interesting, and the shops — O,
dear, such pretty things!
Sunday Afternoon, February 23, 1896.
William has at last rejoined us, for which we are de
voutly thankful. I guess he is glad to be here, too. He
arrived in the city last night, but of course did not know
where to find us, and this moming Papa and Mr. G  went
out for a walk and met him coming up the street. He knew
that we talked of coming here, but we had not decided when
he left us.
We went to church this morning, and saw a number of
Ogontz girls there. It does seem good to meet so many
friends. I believe there are several of the schoolgirls here
in Paris. Did I tell you that Margaret A  , an Ogontz
friend of Isabel's, was here in the house? Her mother is very
lovely and is herself an old Ogontz girl.
Yesterday afternoon Jennie G  and I went out walk
ing, and had an exceedingly pleasant time. We called at the
tailors and milliners, and walked along several of the principal
streets, looking in at the shop windows, and I arranged to
have my silver set mounted. We went into the Magazine de

222 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
Louvre and purchased a few small articles, and then into a
tiny bakery and had some delicious chocolate and cakes. It
is quite the fashion here to go to these bakeries for refresh
ments. The weather has grown much colder, and the air is sharp
and clear. It is lovely, however, but seems chilly to us.
Paris, Monday Evening, February 24, 1896.
There is nothing special to write to-night. We are just
in from an all-day's shopping tour, and have spent most of
the day with dressmakers. They expect to have everything
ready by two weeks from to-day, and we have it down in
black and white. Paris, Wednesday Morning, February 26, 1896.
The others are sleeping peacefully, and I am afraid that
I shall not have an opportunity to write to-day, unless I
snatch this moment of quiet. Every minute is occupied
during the day, and the evenings are spent in the drawing-
room until ten or eleven, so that when we do come to our
rooms the only thought is to get to bed as quickly as
possible. Yesterday we went to an afternoon tea with one of the
Ogontz girls, Mary P  . We had a most enjoyable time,
and met several of the schoolgirls whom Isabel knew. We
are planning a little dinner-party for Thursday evening;
there is always a musicale and dancing-party on that even
ing, and this week it is to be a little extra. I hope that our
plans will not fall through,
I have but this moment received G  's Christmas pres
ent, which came by way of Yokohama. It must have reached
Ceylon just before we left, but being Sunday we could not
get it. We heard there was a package for us, but thought
it was for Isabel, and the poor child has been looking for
it ever since we came. The others are getting about, so I
must close now.

PARIS. 223
Paris, Thursday, February 27, 1896.
It is a gray morning, and I know is cold out. Oh ! the
weather seems so cold here, but of course we feel it, coming
from a summer clime. We are very busy with our plans for
our dinner, and think everything will go off nicely. A
cablegram came from home yesterday; it was good to hear
such cheering news. Friday Morning, February 28, 1896.
We had such a pleasant time last night. Only two of
the girls came — Mary P  and Bess P  , but the G  s
had a guest, too, a Miss T  (the pastor's niece), so alto
gether there were ten at the table, with Mamma for chaperon.
Our table was very pretty with flowers, and the dinner unusu
ally good. The only thing that marred in the least was that
our dresses, which had been promised at five, did not come
until seven, so we had to make our old crumpled gowns do
until after dinner. The musicale began about nine, and was
excellent. At half-past eleven refreshments were served, and
then came the dancing, which we enjoyed very much. Mary
and Miss P  went home about twelve, but the rest of us
danced until after two, ending in a general romp in the Vir
ginia reel, as usual. Needless to say, we are tired this morn
ing. It is a rainy day, so I think we shall remain at home
for a rest. Paris, Saturday Morning, February 29, 1896.
Yesterday was a dreary day all around. Papa had taken
cold and felt miserable. In the evening we went to a cafel,
a queer old place called the Chat Noir. It is an old club,
I believe. Downstairs there was a cafef with bare tables,
and pictures all around the walls. There were cats every
where, in every conceivable place, even a huge, black puss
sat on the fender licking her paws ; most of the others were
painted. At nine o'clock we went up a narrow, winding
staircase, lined with all sorts of pictures, to a small room

224 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
filled with chairs. At one end was placed a stage, a little
like the one at the Electrical Theater at the World's Fair,
Chicago, surrounded by a heavy gilt frame. The perform
ance consisted of music, both vocal and instrumental, and a
sort of pantomime. Some of the latter was very good, but
part of it was stupid and vulgar ; they have to suit all tastes,
I suppose. There are a good many such places here in
Paris, but many of them are not worthy of patronage. The
audience last night was very respectable, and consisted
mostly of men. I think we were the only Americans present.
Paris, Sunday Afternoon, March i, 1896.
Yesterday afternoon we visited the studio of an Amer
ican artist, a Mr. T  . It was very interesting, and we saw
some beautiful pictures. There was one that I admired espe
cially, called "Soap Bubbles." It was the nude figure of a
dark-haired woman, with the back almost turned to one.
She was blowing bubbles from a white clay pipe, and all
about her floated eight or ten beautiful, iridescent spheres.
A little back, so that her right hand rested upon it, was
a bowl supported on a tripod and holding the soapy water.
I cannot describe it, but it was so beautiful in both color and
outHne, the flesh-tints were exquisite. It is to be hung in
a bathroom of a New York house, and the room is to be
decorated to correspond; but before it leaves France Mr.
T  expects to exhibit it in the Salon.
Paris, Tuesday morning, March 3, 1896.
This letter is going off to-day. I almost wish I could
go, too, but it is only a few weeks now before we shaH aU
be going. Yesterday was spent in the Bon Marche. where there
was a crowd, as it was the "spring opening," but we enjoyed
the display very much. We were a tired party in the evening.
The others played cards, and I had to take a hand before
the evening was over. I was having an enjoyable time

PARIS. 225
reading "Thelma," and was selfish enough not to want to
leave it. You see, I am as bad as ever.
The weather is cold here to-day, with the wind whistling
down the chimney. Yesterday was like April. We have
received some letters from our English friends, and they are
very anxious to have us visit them for two weeks. We shall
probably go for a day or two at least.
Paris, Wednesday Noon, March 4, 1896.
We have been out shopping aH the morning, and were
nearly blown to pieces. It is March here in earnest. The
rain yesterday brought out the buds, and now it is quite
springlike. Last night six of us went to a circus, with William for
chaperon, and had such fun. The girls leave to-morrow
moming for Italy ; we shall miss them very much. A month
from now we shall probably be on the Atlantic, and I think
that after receiving this letter you would better stop writing.
Does not that make our home-coming seem near?
Thursday, March 5, 1896.
Papa and I have been out all the afternoon, looking in
the shops. I know that we walked miles, as at last we found
ourselves away down by the Louvre, and then took a cab
home. Cabs here are very cheap, only forty cents an hour,
so we take them on all occasions. We walk a great deal,
however, for it seems so good to be able to do so, after our
laziness on shipboard, and in the hot countries.
The G  s went away early this morning, and the house
seems lonely without them. Last night we were crazy to do
something to have a good time, and as Papa and Mr. G 
had been out by themselves lately, we asked them where
to go. We knew that there was some sort of a gay enter
tainment across the street, the best of the kind in the city.
Papa and Mr. G  had been there and said that it was not
so very bad, so off we started— we five giris. Papa, Mr. G 
15

226 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
and William. We entered a very large hall with a stage at
one end. In the center of the hall were little tables and
chairs where refreshments were served. Around the room
were boxes beautifully furnished, with mirrors and couches.
The performance on the stage was regular vaudeville, and
fairly good. We watched it all until about eleven, and then
went to the further end of the hall, where there was an
entrance to another hall, or rather a complete theater, about
the size of Hooley's at home. There we saw the most beau
tiful ballet on the stage that I ever saw. The dancers repre
sented birds — gray, white, fawn and steel colored — fluttering
on the roof-tops. The effect was lovely beyond words. This
show closed about twelve. Then we went back to the large
hall, where, the performance being over, everyone was walk
ing. We walked with the rest, watching the crowd, but
before long the rougher element began to assert itself, and
it was time to go home. Madame had a nice little luncheon
awaiting us in the dining-room on our return, as she always
does when we are out, and after refreshing ourselves we
climbed into our "downy couches," tired enough, but with
the feeling that we certainly had "done" Paris.
Paris, Monday Night, March 9, 1896.
The last few days have been full of shopping excursions
and have been very busy ones. We are hurrying our arrange
ments as fast as possible in order to get home.
Yesterday Isabel and I went to luncheon at Bess
P  's, where there were several of the schoolgirls. We
had a lovely time. Thursday, March 12, 1896.
Yesterday we were busy with Madame Le L  and
tired enough we were after having everything on.
We have been renewing the acquaintance of a lady
whom we met in Hongkong, a Mrs. H  , perhaps you
remember my writing of her. She is living at a pension
near here, but we only learned of her whereabouts the other

PARIS. 227
day. It is pleasant, indeed, to meet someone whom we
knew in those far-away lands. She has just called, and
Mamma and Papa are in the drawing-room.
It is raining to-day, and such a pity, too, as this is a
fete day here, called "Micerreme" of Mid-Lent. It is cele
brated much as "Mardi Gras," with floats and showers of
confetti. The streets are full of the tiny particles of colored
paper, and from all the balconies and over the trees float
streams of paper ribbon. The air looks as though a heavy
snowstorm was in progress — or did, until the rain spoiled it
all. Many people are in fancy dress, especially the children.
Everyone is very good-natured here; no rough treatment
anywhere. Paris, Sunday Evening, March 15, 1896.
We have had a busy day, even though it is Sunday. Went
to hear Mr. Paxton, of New York, preach in the American
church in the morning, and even Papa enjoyed it very much.
This afternoon Mr. G  , one of the young men in the
house, invited us to go to one of the large cathedrals to hear
his teacher, Mr. Guilmant, play the organ. Mr. Guilmant is
said to be the finest organist for sacred music in the world.
He is a small man, with long, gray hair, speaks very little
English, and is quite diffident. We, of course, sat in the
organ-loft, next to the organ, and it was most interesting.
He certainly does play magnificently. After we left there
we went to another American's studio, where Mr. S  met
us. The pictures were very fine, indeed, and we spent a
pleasant hour talking, then walked home through the dark
ening streets. It has not seemed at all like Sunday to-day.
We expect D  ;- C  to-morrow morning, and shall
he very glad to see someone from home.
Monday Night, March 16, 1896.
D  came this morning ; was here when we went down
to breakfast. To us, who have not seen him since his illness.

228 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
he looks very badly, but he is probably much better than
when he left home.
To-morrow Madame Le L  promises all of our
dresses, and a packer will be here to put everything in the
trunks. I wish these next few weeks were over, for I dread
the thought of going on board another steamer. We may
expect a hard voyage, I know. D  said that he had a
stormy passage across the channel. Do you ever stop to
think how many rough trips these letters have had in the
course of a year, and none of them lost? I think it is
remarkable. Tuesday Evening, March 17, 1896.
Our rooms are in the greatest confusion to-night, as the
things are only half packed. We had hoped to leave to-mor
row, but it will be impossible. I have not been out of the
house to-day and feel dreadfully cross with all the rooms in
such disorder. Victoria Hotel, London, England,
Friday Morning, March 20, 1896.
We have been so very busy, and there has been no
opportunity to write. Wednesday the packer was with us
all day, and there was hardly a place to sit down. By four
everything was packed, and six trunks went off to Liverpool.
Yesterday we left Paris, and after a pleasant trip reached
London. The channel was very smooth, though we felt the
cold keenly. Eight o'clock saw us in Charing Cross station,
tired and hungry.
This morning Isabel and I have been out for a walk, but
the rain soon put a stop to our wanderings, and we had to
take a hansom home. It seems so queer to hear English
spoken on every side. We are busy looking after our boxes
that were sent on from the East, and are doing very little
sightseeing.

LONDON. 229
London, Saturday Noon, March 21, 1896.
This is another wet, chiUing day. We have spent the
morning visiting with an EngHsh friend of Mamma's, a
Mrs. E  , who is in the Woman's Christian Temperance
Union work. We received a very kind note from Mrs. M 
yesterday, and now expect to go to her at her home in
Bradford next Tuesday. An invitation for dinner is already
awaiting us. It is so cold here. O dear, there is no place
Hke America for comfort! They have nothing but tiny
grates to keep one warm. O, the English do not half know
how to live! We hope to do a little sightseeing now, as
Isabel remembers so little of our former trip here ; but there
are so many people to see that there wiU not be much time.
You know ere this that we shall probably reach home Easter
Sunday, and therefore will be in time for J  C  's wed
ding. Mrs. E  has gone, and since then the K  s have
called, and now Mamma and I are trying to have a little
rest. I hope that we can go to the theater to-night. I want
to do so if for nothing more than to make the time pass
more quickly. Sunday Afternoon, March 22, 1896.
We expect a number of people to call this afternoon,
and are just waiting now. It is a perfect spring day, with
the sun shining as brightly as the smoke will permit, and the
air so soft and balmy. We heard a very fine sermon by
Canon Wilberforce this morning in the old church of St.
John. We had a pleasant walk afterward also, passing the
Houses of ParHament, Westminster Abbey and Whitehall.
Monday Morning, March 2:^, 1896.
This letter must go off to-day, to be sure to get home
before we do. How soon that will be now! Yesterday
afternoon we had such an enjoyable time with our friends —
so many called, and it seemed so good to see the famiHar
faces. Dr. J  , whom we have not seen for years, is just

230 AS WE WERE JOURNEYING.
the same, only older, and Mr. P  also, with whom we had
such a pleasant visit. The latter stayed to dinner and most
of the evening, and it seemed so jolly to talk of our experi
ences in the South, on that memorable trip to the West
Indies, about which Isabel and William get so tired of
hearing us talk. This afternoon Mr. P  is coming to take
Isabel and me to Westminster.
We leave for Bradford to-morrow morning, and Mrs.
M  is planning aH sorts of good times. I hardly see how
we are to get everything done in the two days that we shall
be there. We go to a dinner-party the night we arrive, and
then to see some abbey on Wednesday, and there is a recep
tion on Thursday, if we stay as long as that, which I doubt.
We expect to sail on the Lucania, which leaves next Satur
day. Good-bye. We shall see you in a little over a week.

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