il I III

I '
III Ijl
I Piillilllili
iiiiiiiiii I
i
iii Mi li iii m
i iiiiii i
¦:;:!
Illi iiiiii!
 II
ill
ii ii iii
iii lllll
"Igfvt fluff B tola:
l-fprj the foitndtxg of a- College; in, tMi Colony*

¦Tf^JE-^MVIEirainnr-

(jj£d2AUMl '¦

T0f <?

Jdl

****^&$®^^

CHINA BRANCH OF
Taken on the day of the organization „/" il,~ Tjtrai

w-

&$mi8&li$to^^

I'll". Ai

¦<U.':

mM

>MAN S AUXILIARY.
John's Collegiate Chapel, Shanghai. May 4. 1893.

ST. JOHN'S COLLEGIATE CHAPEL, SHANGHAI.

TWICE AROUND THE WORLD

, . .at
By Mrs. TWING
HONORARY SECRETARY OF THE WOMAN'S AUXILIARY
DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN MISSIONARY SOCIETY

WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS

JUNIOR AUXILIARY PUBLISHING COMPANY
211 State Street, Hartford, Conn.

New York
JAMES POTT & CO.
Church Missions House, Fourth Avenue and 22D Street

Grateful acknowledgments are made to The Churchman for the use
of articles and cuts, and to the Domestic and Foreign
Missionary Society for the use of cuts.

PREFACE.
THE friends who followed my journeyings through the
columns of The Churchman and other publications, and who
have asked for a reprint of my letters in some more permanent
form, will not need to be told that this selection from a very full
correspondence can hardly be called in the strict sense of the
term a Book of Travel. The round-the-world tourist, only in
search of novelty and pleasure, will not find it a good guide
book. For the ordinary reader it would have been better to re
write the whole story, but then it might not have met the wish
of those at whose request it has been prepared and to whom it
is now to go. It claims to be nothing more than an imperfect
picture of some wonderful sights in this wonderful world in
which we live, a partial record of personal experiences in foreign
lands, and a slight presentation of some thoughts of my own
and of other persons on problems with which one comes face to
face in Oriental countries and among Oriental people, differing
in a thousand ways from our own. The brief account it gives
of the work we love and that it belongs to us to do in China
and Japan, must be supplemented by reference to more official re
ports and periodicals, The Spirit of Missions, The Young
Christian Soldier, The Church in China, The Church in Japan,
Church Mission News, and the Round Robins and other useful
issues of the Junior Auxiliary Publishing Company, for it
reproduces little that can be found there.
It is intended, first, for a host of missionary friends and
friends of the missionary, to whom I am more indebted than I
can say, and with whom I.have been associated for nearly thirty
years ; and then for another and still greater host of those younger
friends who are already beginning to fill their ranks, and who,
in the new century close at hand, will learn to make it, more
perfectly than this has been, a Century of Service.
In the frequent mention of the work done by our Mother
Church of England in the Colonies of the Empire of Great Britain,

we, with our new possessions in Cuba and Porto Rico, in the
Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines, may read a prophecy of
what is possible for us in future years, and feel a unity of pur
pose and of sympathy based upon deeper and firmer foundations
than any other kind of Anglo-American alliance can give. And,
finally, if our own and most familiar Domestic Missionary field
seems strangely to have been dropped from the record, it is only
because that story is left for another day, when it is hoped great
numbers of our Church people may read it, not from the printed
page, but with their own eyes, upon the field itself.
The General Convention of October, 1901, and the Trien
nial Meeting of the Woman's Auxiliary to the Board of Missions
are appointed to be held in San Francisco. It may be that on
the way to California and on the return journey many will stop
all along the various lines of railroad to visit the places endeared
to us by the lives and labors of our missionary leaders — Asheville
and Duluth, North and South Dakota and Montana, Laramie and
Boise and Spokane, Oklahoma and the Indian Territory, New Mex
ico and Arizona, Western Texas and Southern Florida, Salt Lake
and Sacramento, perhaps even the far distant region of Alaska;
while for some the privilege may be in store of seeing for them
selves as well that portion of the Foreign field and those latest
lands over which the flag of the United States now floats, out and
beyond the Golden Gate and across the wide, inviting waters of
the Pacific. They will be the ones to mark the rapid changes
every year is bringing, and to see the "open door" ready and
waiting for all who choose to enter in; and that some, who go as
guests to any of those far-away places, may be led to give to
them their hearts and lives, and gladly find in them a new home
and happy work for Christ, is my earnest wish and prayer, as it
is the chief object and purpose of the sending out of this book
upon its way.
Mary A. E. Twing.
Church Missions House, New York,
Advent, 1898.

CONTENTS.
THE FIRST JOURNEY.
NOVEMBER, 1 892 — NOVEMBER, 1 893. page.
1. Cairo, -____]
2. Aden, - - 8
3. Bombay, - - - 17
4. Ahmedabad and Jeypore, - 23
5. Delhi and Agra, - 28
6. Cawnpore and Lucknow, - 32
7. Benares, - 37
8. Calcutta, - - - 43
9. Colombo and Kandy, 48
10. Penang, Singapore and Hong Kong, - 54
11. Shanghai, - - - - - 62
12. Hankow and Wuchang, - - 72
13. By Sedan Chair, Wheelbarrow and House-boat, 79
14. Osaka, Kyoto and Nara, 87
15. Tokyo, ____--__ 95
16. Aomori, 103
17. Nikko, 109
THE SECOND JOURNEY.
june, 1896 — july, 1897.
1. Across the Country to San Francisco, 117
2. Across the Ocean to Honolulu, 122
3. Hawaii and "The House of Everlasting Fire," 131
4. Japan Revisited, - - - 140
5. The Point of View, - - - - 147
6. The Widely-loving Society, - 159
7. China Revisited, - 181
8. The Imperial City, - 193
9. Ceylon Revisited, - 202
10. India Revisited, - 212
11. In the Punjab, - - 221
12. The Hill Stations of India, - 228
13. A Week in Palestine, - 235

TWICE AROUND THE WORLD.

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

I.
CAIRO.
"WENTY-FIVE years ago I visited for the first time our
domestic missionary field, going out by steamer to
California, the voyage of twenty-eight days
being broken only by the crossing of the
Isthmus of Panama and by a few hours in
;.« .^¦P'™M the Mexican town of Accapulco. The next
| year I returned by one of the earliest trips
of the Union Pacific Railroad, passing
ti through stations where a warehouse and a
telegraph office and half a dozen tents
were all, perhaps, that then marked the
populous and wealthy and flourishing cities of to-day.
For many of the years that have elapsed since then, it has
been my hope that some day I might see our foreign missionary
fields, but it never occurred to me that the time would come
when I should take the journey to China and Japan by the way
of Egypt and India, as a member of the first party — a party of
six friends — travelling round the world on a ticket issued by a
combination of the Canadian Pacific and Peninsular and Oriental
Companies. A winter trip through the Straits of Gibraltar and
the Mediterranean, escapes the cold and storms of the North
Atlantic, or at least that was our experience. We sailed by the
"Furst Bismarck" of the Hamburg-American Packet Line, on
November 17, 1892, on a lovely day, just between two heavy
rainstorms in New York, and carried the sunshine with us to
this land of sunshine, knowing nothing of rough seas or cloudy

2 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
skies, save from the newspapers, after our arrival in Cairo on
December 3. Here we are staying for a few days, waiting for
the steamer for Bombay, and seeing all we can meanwhile of
the wonders of this wonderful land, together with whatever is
being done of mission work by English and Americans.
The fine large building of the American Presbyterian Mission
is close by our hotel, and already we have made warm friends
among the missionaries, who tell us that they are indebted to
many of our own Church people for generous assistance to
their work.
We walked over early one day and introduced ourselves to
Miss Harvey, born in Egypt, and daughter of the Rev. Dr. and
Mrs. Harvey, who have been in the mission twenty-seven years;
and under her guidance we spent the morning in the schools,
and later made the acquaintance of her own and the other
families of the mission at a pleasant afternoon tea. We were
there again in an evening to meet the young men, Copts and
Arabs, who come once a week for singing and games and social
intercourse; and still another day Miss Harvey took me about
with her to see something of the harem work. This was
especially interesting, as it gave me an opportunity to see the
homes of the people; and in one of them we met one of the
native Bible teachers, and heard her pupil read the story of
Deborah from her Arabic Bible. Twenty of these native teachers
are employed in Cairo in this house-to-house visiting, and 350
women are thus receiving religious instruction in their homes,
through them and the ladies who supervise their work. Miss
Thompson, Miss Harvey's cousin, spends all her time in this
way, going about to the different districts of the city and twice
a week gathering the Bible women together to teach them and
receive their reports.
The mission has been established thirty-seven years, and the
Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Watson have been connected with it for
thirty-one years out of that time. The missionaries promise,
when appointed, to remain ten years in the country, after which
they are entitled to a year's holiday. Some of them stay even

CAIRO.

longer without going home, and in case of illness the time is
shortened. They all speak well of the climate, however, and
say that, with proper precautions in the heat of the summer,
residence in Egypt need be no more unhealthy than elsewhere.
The work is largely among the Copts, though Syrians and
Moslems attend the schools as well, and the professed desire,
as stated in the last report, is " that it may end in an evangelical
Coptic Church, such as existed in Egypt in the second century
of the Christian era." With every effort at true reform, and
with the teaching of the Word of God, as well as with the good
influences connected with the secular instruction given through
every week day, we cannot but be in sympathy; and in a
missionary journey such as this, it is a heartfelt pleasure to note
and profit by the Christian zeal and devotion
of others, whether they are of our own
household of faith or not.
Dean Butcher, chaplain of the pretty

GROUP OUTSIDE OF CAIRO.

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

ON THE NILE BANK.

English Church of All
Saints, was, for many
years in Shanghai, the
friend of Bishop and Mrs. Boone, and Bishop and Mrs.
Schereschewsky, and earlier of a missionary whose name is dear
to members of the Woman's Auxiliary, Lydia Mary Fay, of whom
he speaks with enthusiastic admiration. From him we have
received very many kind attentions and introductions, and with
him I visited the Anglican Church Mission School for Jews, under
the Rev. Nasr Odeh and Mrs. Odeh. This mission is under the
charge of Bishop Blyth, who represents the Anglican Church in
Jerusalem and the East, and is now, in its third year, doing
admirable work. There are forty girls and sixty boys in the
schools, a few of Mohammedan and Christian parentage being
received, as well as those of Jewish birth, for whom the work
is primarily established. The children, of a somewhat higher

CAIRO. 5
class than those in the American Mission, pay five francs, or less,
each month, according to their means, and are taught in Arabic,
French and English. Some kindergarten exercises were charm
ingly rendered, and all the faces showed intelligence and activity
of mind, while Mr. and Mrs. Odeh, Syrians in origin and form
erly engaged in mission work in the Holy Land, seemed admir
ably fitted for their position. We went again to see them, and
felt a constantly increasing interest in their undertaking, wishing
for it the sympathy and aid of any of our American Church
people who visit Cairo.
Another worker in the same line is Miss Allen, formerly
associated with Miss Blyth in work in Jerusalem, but now in
charge of a school for Jewish girls and young ladies of a still
higher class, who are also instructed in Arabic, French and Eng
lish, and pay from fifteen to twenty shillings a month, all in
both schools being day pupils. This is also under the authority
of Bishop Blyth, and bespeaks the interest of American as well
as English Church people. In fact, both these enterprises, for
this reason, use the word Anglican in preference to English, but
unless special attention is drawn to them, I am afraid our own
country may overlook the fact that in Cairo any other mission
work claims their attention than that which, because bearing the
name of American, attracts them more readily. Miss Allen has
forty scholars under her care, and might have a much larger
number if she could afford to occupy the whole of the building
in which she has her rooms.
In addition to the schools and outside mission work, I was
much interested in visiting the hospital, founded and partly sup
ported by the four colonies of foreign residents, English, Ameri
can, Swiss and German, under charge of six Lutheran deacon
esses from Kaiserswerth. The buildings and grounds are
excellent and finely kept, the patients seeming most comfortable.
All pay something, but there are three classes, the first paying
fifty piastres, or $2.50 a day, the second twenty-five piastres,
and the third twelve and a half piastres a day.
In Alexandria, Sister Eliza, who showed me about, told me

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

that twelve of these deaconesses are in charge of a hospital twice
the size of this, or large enough for ioo patients; and that they
were also working in Jerusalem, where she herself had been for
several years before coming to Egypt. I looked at the blue
dress and white cap and apron with a most friendly feeling,
trusting that the time would soon come when we might see
deaconesses from our New York and Philadelphia schools estab
lished in hospitals and orphanages, and engaged in Bible teach
ing, in many different places in our own foreign field.
All the missionary workers that I have met in Cairo seem
heartily to love their work and to give themselves to it with un
stinted devotion. They appear truly happy, and not in the least
as though they felt it a sacrifice, but rather a privilege, to go into
all the world, in accordance with their Lord's command, to
preach the Gospel and to
teach all na- tions. In this
brief inter- g& course with them
I have been /V reminded of a
friend who, i^: -, .Ji. on hearing of my

.'.".' 4. IH -**"

ON THE ROAD FROM ALEXANDRIA.

CAIRO. 7
proposed journey, wished she were going too, adding: "I love
travelling so much that I love even its discomforts !" Perhaps the
true missionary feels that even the trials and hardships of the life
are dear, and finds the best reward of all his labors, not in any large
results that may be tabulated and sent home in annual reports,
but in the fulfilment of the promise, inexpressibly precious in
anticipation, but still more precious in reality: "And lo, I am
with you alway, even unto the end of the world."
Tourists must miss a great deal who see nothing of the
missionary life in the foreign countries they visit, or who see
only to criticise or condemn. To enter into it sympathetically
adds a charm and brightness to all besides, like the afterglow of
an Egyptian sunset, which only those who have seen it for
themselves can truly know. The pyramids and the sphinx and
the museums tell of a power and greatness forever gone, but the
sunset radiance bears the prophecy of another glorious day, with
life and light and joy and progress and perpetual youth. If I
could only make all who read my letters believe this, it would in
itself be well worth while to take this missionary journey round
the world. At all events, I write them with this hope in view.

ADEN.
\A/E stayed twelve days in Cairo, too short a time for more
" * than a kaleidoscopic view of all the enchanting sights
about the city, but long enough to make us truly thankful that
we were able to take in so much of Egypt on the threshold of
our Eastern travels.
Short as the time was, and full of so many varied interests,
we looked quite thoroughly into three separate lines of mission
ary work. They stand out distinctly in my mind, as represen
tative of the differing systems under which they are conducted,
and the several objects of missionary enterprise which appeal to
the modern Christian on the borders of the foreign field.
The Anglican Church Mission School is established primarily
for Jews, but receives a few Copts and Moslems also as pupils.
The American Presbyterian Mission is established primarily for
Copts, but reaches also a certain number of Jews and Moslems.
The English Church Missionary Society has its schools and
hospital and dispensary, primarily for Moslems, but teaches and
ministers to Copts and Jews as well, as opportunity offers.
It was only on the last day of our stay that we succeeded in
getting to this last mission, which 1 much regretted, as we were
deeply interested and would have liked to visit it again. The
little hospital, with its single ward, is in Old Cairo, and the dis
pensary, where some 600 out-door patients are treated weekly;
and there, too, are schools for both boys and girls; while other
schools, in larger and better quarters, with a chapel and a Bible
and Tract Depository, are established on the road to the citadel,
not far from the post-office, in that part of the city less likely to
be overlooked by travellers.
This mission has been reorganized and reinforced within the
past two years, and has now sixteen missionaries connected with

ADEN. 9
it, including two physicians and a trained nurse from St. Thomas's
Hospital, London. The teaching is in Arabic and English and
seemed very thorough, and the order was excellent.
Here then, in Cairo, the tourist who cares to turn aside a
little from the beaten track, will come into close contact with
what he perhaps may call Missions to the Ancient Churches. To
the casual observer there is little to choose between the Hebrew,
the Arab and the Egyptian, while of the three forms of unknown
religion, Coptic, Jewish and Mohammedan, all seem to him alike
false, superstitious and absurd.
Sometimes even the thoughtful missionary student is puzzled
to know what the original attraction is in beginning work, and
wishes it were possible to see with the eyes of the worker just
how and why the particular field he has chosen appeals to him.
Those who enter into such a feeling will understand the interest
with which I read the following statement in regard to " Refor
mation in the Coptic Church," written as a part of a report by
the Rev. Dr. Watson, one of the oldest missionaries of the
American Presbyterian Mission in Egypt:
"The American Mission has often been accused of seeking
to pull down, or root up, the Coptic Church, which maintains its
existence in unbroken succession from the days of the apostles,
and of desiring to set up in its stead another ecclesiastical organi
zation. In support of this charge reference is made to the fact
that there is now growing in the Nile valley, under the fostering
care and direct influence of our mission, a native church, under
the Presbyterian form of government. I do not for a moment
deny this last named fact; but who is responsible for the action
thus taken, and the direction thus given by the mission to those
natives who desired to be led by the truth of God's word ? The
missionaries learned from personal contact with the Coptic
people that they and their priests were, with very few excep
tions, utterly ignorant of the Word of God. With them the chief
ground of salvation was the fifty-five days of fasting and prayer,
and the way of salvation confession to, and absolution by, the
priest. Very few ever thought of the merits of Christ's obedi-

io THE FIRST JOURNEY.
ence, sufferings and death, except to set free from their dark
prison-house the spirits of all who died before His crucifixion,
and confer on the Church the power of saving souls for all time
thereafter. They knew nothing of the Holy Spirit as necessary
to convert the soul and impart and keep alive the new life. Eat
ing a piece of cheese during the days of fasting was more hein
ous than drunkenness. The worshipping of pictures, confession
to priests, and belief in their power to forgive sin, belief in tran
substantiation and the intercession of saints were universal. The
missionaries only asked the Copts to read and study the Bible,
and their only desire was to lead them to a knowledge of the
truth for their salvation. But as soon as it became known in
any place that any one was meeting with the missionary for the
study of the Scriptures, or was reading the sacred text in his
own home and began to express a doubt about the truth of some
of the Church's beliefs, he was visited by the priest, rebuked and
threatened, and if he persisted in prosecuting his investigation
he was excommunicated and boycotted. Again and again this
took place, and occasionally bodily punishment with the lash
was inflicted. In such circumstances what was to be done, but
to form societies for mutual encouragement and help ; and when
earnest souls were brought to the light, and the Son of God as
the only Saviour was revealed to them in the study of the divine
Word, what was to be done ? Hardly could an honest, sincere
child of God stay in company with a Church believing in saint
worship, transubstantiation, the confessional, and the worship
of pictures, when he had come to believe these things to be
wrong, even were he allowed to do so ; but the fact is that the
Coptic clergy would not, until recently, permit any such person
to remain in the Coptic Church, unless he was willing to remain
dumb in regard to these matters. What then could be done but
to organize them into a united body ? Were the people to be left
without the benefits of organization and without the sympathy
and encouragement that came from unity ? And if Churches had
to be organized, of what form could they be, but that of the
Church whose agents the missionaries were, the Church that

ADEN. 1 1
in the Providence of God was permitted to bring the Word
of life? "It has never been the practice of the American missionaries
to spend their time and strength in decrying the form of gov
ernment held by the Copts, and no one of them would remain
long in Egypt merely to bring the Copts over to the forms of
Presbyterianism. What they came for and what they remain for,
is to teach and to preach the great doctrines of salvation by faith
in Christ, the necessity of the new birth by the Spirit of God,
the worship of God alone, and confession to and pardon from
Him alone, through the mediation of His Son Jesus Christ. They
have felt sad over their ignorance, the intolerance and general
immorality of the Coptic clergy in former years, and often
wished that something could be done for them; but they have
never attempted or aided in a crusade against their form of gov
ernment. Only twice, in my missionary life of over thirty years
in Egypt, have I made a public address on Church government,
and then only on the occasion of ordaining native pastors. Of
course in giving expositions of the pastoral epistles to the theologi
cal classes I have felt it my duty to call their attention to the fact
that presbuteros and episcopos are convertible terms in the NewTes-
tament, and that ordination is always an act of presbytery; but it
has never been a part of our belief that all outside of our organiza
tion are strangers to God's grace, 'and aliens from the covenants
of promise, having no hope and without God in the world.'
"Very early in the history of the mission the mission
aries were convinced that the best way to reform the Coptic
Church, if it ever could be reformed, was to work outside of it,
and for the time being, at least, to organize a body of living,
active, evangelical Christians, who by their walk and conversa
tion and modes of Christian work, would, in the way of holy
rivalry or example, be a means of stimulating the Copts to do
something for themselves. It has been a great pleasure to them
to see this effect being produced during the last twenty years, in
the larger use of the vernacular instead of the dead Coptic lan
guage in their religious services, the almost total disuse of picture

12 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
worship, and in many places the removal of the pictures from the
Church proper to some private room, the establishment of
schools, the organization of religious and literary societies, the
adoption of our system of nightly meetings for the study of the
Scriptures, conference on religious subjects and prayer, and the
introduction of public preaching in connection with church ser
vices in some places. During the past year their nightly meetings
multiplied greatly among the Copts themselves, especially in
several important towns, and large numbers attend them, nota
bly Assioot, where the reforming party is very strong and exerts
a controlling power. Indeed a large majority of young Copts,
in all the large towns, where education has promoted a spirit of
inquiry, are reformers, and are in friendly relations with the mis
sion and the native evangelical Church. They frequently invite
our native workers, pastors and others, to meet with them and
conduct their religious meetings, and have always shown their
appreciation of such service. They voluntarily say, as I have
heard again and again, that their present intelligence, and their
desire to reform their own Church, are direct results of the work
of the mission and the native Church. The outcome of the
present reform movement, which has been so greatly accen
tuated during the past year, none but God can foresee. But it is
our constant prayer that it may end in an evangelical Coptic
Church, such as existed in Egypt in the second century of the
Christian era."
The Church of England approaches missionary work in the
East from an altogether different standpoint. Her clergy put
themselves, so far as possible, into friendly communication with
the Coptic priesthood, and watch with ready and sincere sym
pathy whatever signs of internal reform and progress they can
discover. This attitude makes it easy to stretch out an assisting
hand from time to time, and a step has lately been taken, by
mutual agreement, which promises to be of great importance.
On the invitation of the managers of the large graded school
connected with the Coptic cathedral in Cairo, the English Society
for the Furtherance of Christianity in Egypt has sent out a first-

ADEN.

¦3

rate English trained schoolmaster, Mr. Norman, who is at pres
ent solving satisfactorily the difficulty of working with a native
committee. Much hope is expressed that the system of educa
tional aid, combining Bible and Church history teaching, without
doctrinal interference, will be a valued assistance to the Copts,
especially because it is given at their request and carried out on
their general plan.
I noticed, while in Cairo, the statement in an English paper,
that the Copts are rising in power and intelligence and that they
are well represented in the administration of the country. Just
now the conflict between the Khedive and the Patriarch attracts
much attention, but the Bishop who has been placed in authority

by the Khedive, since the banish-
arch, is said to be both a wise
and it is believed that the diffi-
ually be removed, and that the

ment of the Patri-
and good man,
culties will event-
final result will
lead to great
er enlighten-

ACROSS THE DESERT.

14 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
ment in the Coptic Church, and greater strength and skill in
meeting the altered condition of the Church in its relation to the
government. While, however, the English Church carefully avoids any
thing like proselytizing in its intercourse with Copts and Syrian
Greeks and Latin Christians, it devotes itself with fervor to mis
sionary work among "Turks and infidels and among the chil
dren of Abraham — the sons of Isaac and the sons of Ishmael."
The Jewish work on the one hand and the Mohammedan work
on the other supply a sufficient field for its varied activities in
Egypt ; and it is in coming to Aden, and turning away from
Arabia and Palestine, towards India, that one seems suddenly to
realize just in what direction the chief strength and power of
the English Church as a missionary Church must actually lie.
Aden is a barren, rocky, jagged bit of tawny colored coast
line, a coaling port only, one might say, if it were not for the
thought that here these great steamers strike out, from the Red
Sea and the Mediterranean, across to Bombay and Calcutta, to
Australia and New Zealand, to Colombo and Hong Kong. It
appeals to the imagination like Gibraltar, as the gateway to new
scenes and new experiences and wonders yet to come.
And here, as at Gibraltar, and as our ticket reminds us it will
be in all our journey round the world, we are under the protec
tion of the English flag and under the care of the English Church
— a thought which to the American Churchman is full of com
fort, whatever may be the views of an American citizen in regard
to the union between Church and State. However far from
home, we can never be far from the sound of the liturgy we
love, or from the ministrations of that Mother to whom we owe
our creed, our collects, our Christian year, our English Bible and
our Book of Common Prayer.
The greatest missionary work of the English Church con
sists in her being what she is, and in her going wherever the
flag of England floats or her children dwell.
At Aden we turn away alike from Bible lands and from the
modern Christian civilization of our American and European

ADEN.

'5

IN BIBLE LANDS.

16 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
world, while before us lies another world, where heathenism has
only begun to be conquered by the Cross, and where there still
remains a field for martyrs and for heroes as of yore. It is with
the thought that Christmas Day is coming, to be spent upon the
Arabian sea, over whose waters shone, perhaps, the Christmas
star that led the Eastern sages on their Bethlehem pilgrimage;
but it is with the thankful recollection that, on our steamer,
Christmas Day will not be forgotten, and that there, in the ser
vices of the day, we shall be near to all our distant friends, bound
safely to them by the welcome tie which is woven all around
the world, as well on ocean as on land, by the Mother Church
of England.

III.
BOMBAY.
HTHE traveller who desires new and strange sensations, and who
has never visited- the tropics, should spend a winter in
India. Even on a missionary journey one can see other things
than missions, and for the tourist there are, in this enchanting
country, delights innumerable. It is true that Bombay is ten
days farther away from home than Egypt, and two weeks
farther away than Italy, but on reaching it one finds the combined
charms of Naples and Cairo, with something Oriental added that
belongs rather to the realm of the Arabian Nights than to our
ordinary prosaic experiences.
Bombay is like Naples, because of its beautiful situation, its
lovely bay, its mountains, its undulating and verdure-clad shores;
but whereas to see Naples at its best one must be up at sunrise,
here lazy people have the best of it, for the gorgeousness of
an every-day sunset into the Arabian sea, with its afterglow of
gold and crimson, is something beyond the wildest dreams of
Turner himself.
Bombay is like Cairo because of its motley and picturesque
population, representatives of every clime and race, but the
Hindu is more uniformly picturesque than the Egyptian, while
the Arab is here as well, and a new type, that can hardly be seen
elsewhere, in the Parsee. It is astonishing how much impres
sion is made by this last named people, considering that they
form but about one-sixteenth of all the inhabitants of the city —
50,000 out of 800,000; but they seem everywhere and are a
never-failing interest in every walk, or drive.
The Parsees are the last remnant of the old Fire Worshippers,
Persians driven from their home by the conquering Mohamme
dan. They cling tenaciously to the doctrines of Zoroaster, be
lieving him to have been a disciple of the Prophet Daniel, and

18 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
marry only among themselves, thus preserving the purity both
of race and religion. They deny emphatically, however, that
they or their ancestors were ever worshippers of the fire or of the
sun, considering them only the best symbols of Deity, the Source
of all effulgence and glory. Their temples are bare of ornament,
but contain the sacred fire which has never been allowed to go
out for hundreds of years, and at sunrise and sunset multitudes
of them are to be seen at their devotions on the seashore, a most
interesting feature in an afternoon walk or drive along Queen's
Road or the Esplanade or on the Apollo Bunder. The city men
wear a peculiar long white cotton gown, wide trousers of the
same material, and a tall, shiny, mitre-shaped hat, while the
dress of the Parsee countryman, of whom there are always num
bers to be seen in town, consists of a long, simply-fashioned
garment of some bright color, red, green, yellow or purple.
Many of the wealthiest residents of Bombay are Parsees. They
are energetic and sagacious, frugal and sober, and like the Jews,
know how to accumulate fortunes. The Parsee women and
children wear most gorgeous raiment of delicate silks and mus
lins of every color of the rainbow, simply fashioned, but often
rich and heavy with gold and silver embroidery. Families seem
devoted to each other, and fathers and mothers with several
children are always to be seen driving about together in the
extraordinary little lacquered carts drawn by two bullocks, that
are a characteristic feature of Bombay street life.
The motto of the Parsee consists of three words which
mean "Good thoughts, good words, good deeds," and they
fulfil it well, for they are very generous and humane, and have
established many fine hospitals and charitable institutions in
Bombay that would do credit to either London or New York.
There are about 700,000 of the Hindus, mostly of the Brah
min faith, only a small part being Buddhists. They are small in
stature and of exceedingly delicate frame, and dark as our own
North American Indians. The children and young men and girls
are graceful and attractive, but the women early become old and
ugly. All wear an immense number of rings and bangles,

BOMBAY. 19
including ear-rings and nose-rings, and their foreheads are
marked and striped and spotted in various colors, to indicate
their caste, or show whether they have worshipped that day in
their idol temples. We can see the temples as we drive through
the native part of the city, and the idol through the open door,
and by and by we begin to realize that we have indeed come
to a land where there are still 200,000,000 heathen, a land that
is almost as much a foreign missionary field as it was in
the days of Carey or Schwartz or Henry Martyn or Bishop
Heber. To realize it still more fully, a visit should be paid to the
Caves of Elephanta, where the colossal stone images, partially
destroyed by the cannon of the Portuguese, are still worshipped
by Hindus of to-day with the same rites as were observed by
their ancestors centuries ago.
Mohammedans are also to be seen in great numbers in Bom
bay, often, as at Cairo, prostrating themselves toward Mecca,
only now it is toward the West instead of the East as we have
left their sacred city far behind in our journey round the world.
The out-door life, in its marvellous variety of race and cos
tume, is made more fascinating by the new forms of vegetation,
many of them entirely unknown, and others, like the banyan
tree, the mango, the banana, the cocoa-nut palm and the royal
palm, recognized with delight as associated with all our earliest
ideas of the tropics. And then there are the splendid public
buildings, in Venetian Gothic style, that are the pride of the
English residents, and make, this one of the finest of modern
cities; the picturesque thatched bungalows of the officers; the
noble tower of the university, with its clock chiming every
quarter hour and playing familiar tunes at morning, noon and
night, "Home, Sweet Home," and "God Save the Queen"
being heard almost daily; and the never-failing, never-ending
beauty of the water and the sky. A few short paragraphs can
convey but a faint impression of charms that grow only more
charming as they grow more familiar.
Through the kindness of Mr. Kittredge, for thirty years a

20 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
resident of Bombay, and formerly United States Consul, we
received invitations to two unusually magnificent weddings, one
Parsee and the other Mohammedan, and it was then indeed that
we felt transported back to the barbaric splendor of the
Arabian Nights. The Parsee wedding and festivities took place
directly after sunset, in the finest of the four or five gar
dens, with adjoining buildings, reserved for certain of the relig
ious functions of this interesting people. The gentlemen of the
party were seated with the Parsee gentlemen and a few Hindu
and Mohammedan guests in the garden, which was brilliantly
illuminated; and the ladies were given places of honor among
the Parsee ladies ih a large room on one side, where hired min
strels were singing a blessing, and from which they were soon
marshalled in a long procession to go to a room on the opposite
side of the garden to witness the adorning of the bride with
flowers and jewels, no men being permitted to enter. In this
room the ceremony took place, a few friends of the bride
groom, dressed in "the wedding garment" provided, as in the
parable, for the occasion and afterwards removed, and accom
panied by the American gentlemen, escorting the bridegroom to
his place. The bride and bridegroom sat in two chairs in the middle of
the room, side by side, the guests being seated all around them
in a hollow square. At each side was a small round table, on
which was a tall lighted candle and a large tray of rice, with
two cocoa-nuts. The high priest and his assistant-minister,
with two witnesses, stood in front, and chanted in a high mono
tone blessings and counsels, in the ancient Persian tongue, for a
full half hour, the chanting being accompanied by constantly
throwing small handfuls of the rice over the heads of the bridal
pair, who sat perfectly still with their eyes upon the ground dur
ing the entire time. At last the priest suddenly ceased, lifted
his hand in benediction, and left the room. Then the nearest
relatives came forward and offered their congratulations, after
which all the guests, 600 in number, were led across the lighted
garden to a large hall, where tables were spread with the wed-

BOMBAY. 21
ding feast. At one end cake and wine were provided for the
Americans, and at the other were separate tables for the Hindus
and Mohammedans, while those for the Parsees ran the whole
length of the centre of the hall, two or three being especially
occupied by the children, of whom there were great numbers,
as gorgeously attired as their elders, in silks and satins and vel
vets and muslins, embroidered with gold and silver. It was not
hard, in this Epiphany season, among a people with so many
resemblances to the ancient Hebrew race, to imagine one's self a
guest at another wedding feast, where He who came to be King
both of the Jew and the Gentile, first manifested forth His glory,
and His disciples believed on Him.
The Mohammedan festivities were as different- as possible,
held in the evening, the first of three successive nights, on the
last of which would occur the unveiling of the bride before the
bridegroom, to which we were also invited, but were obliged
to decline, as we were leaving the city the day before.
A whole street, as well as the immense house of several
stories in which the father and grandfather of the bridegroom
and their families lived, was brilliantly illuminated with thou
sands of gas jets, those upon the building being screened with
colored glass of every hue, producing a most striking effect. A
part of the street was enclosed and carpeted as a court, and fur
nished and decorated, and there, as also in the large salon at the
top of the house, Nautch girls, gorgeously attired in silk and
velvet, heavy with gold embroidery, danced and sang to the
music of native minstrels. Another band at the entrance of the
court played " God Save the Queen " on the arrival of each party
of guests, all of whom, on their arrival, were presented with a
small bouquet plentifully sprinkled with rosewater, while on
their departure each one had a heavy necklace of white flowers
hung about the neck as a parting gift. Ices of various kinds,
and wine and frosted cakes were served for refreshments.
On this occasion as many as 200 European and American
ladies and gentlemen must have been present, but no one was
permitted to see the bride or any of the ladies of the household;

22 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
the bridegroom only, a young man of about eighteen years of
age, being introduced to the guests by his father, at whose
expense the entertainment was given. We were told that in
cluding distribution of alms to the poor, it would cost more than
$25,000. I have left no space for a description of the other interests of
Bombay — the noble cathedral named after St. Thomas, Apostle
to India; St. Peter's Church and High Schools, served and taught
by the mission priests of the Cowley Community and by the
All Saints' Sisters; the Church and schools and zenana work of
the Church Missionary Society; Wilson College, maintained by
the Free Church of Scotland; the American Presbyterian mission,
and much beside. But for the tourist I will add that Watson's
Esplanade Hotel is to be compared in charm of location only to
Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo; and that a proper introduction will
probably lead to a dinner or garden party at Government House,
with other social pleasures among English residents, that will
help to make a month in Bombay among the most delightful of
memories in years to come; while I should mention that the
climate in December and January is that of our own loveliest
summer weather.

IV.
AHMEDABAD AND JEYPORE.
A FTER much study of guide books and time tables, we de-
cidedto spend three weeks in crossing India, from Bombay
to Calcutta, stopping along the way at each of the seven following
places: Ahmedabad, Jeypore, Delhi, Agra, Cawnpore, Lucknow
and Benares. A longer time would have enabled us to see other
interesting sights, but this selection gave us sufficient variety,
and on comparing notes with travellers whom we met, we felt
satisfied that we had omitted nothing of great importance on the
route. We left Bombay on the evening of January 12, reaching
Ahmedabad the next morning, for nine o'clock breakfast. Here
we first saw East Indian native life, without any mixture of
European, and here we felt ourselves at last in the heart of a
foreign land. Monkeys climbed the trees, ran about the streets
and roofs of houses, and gathered in groups in the fields, like
cats or dogs or goats in other lands; parrots flew over our heads
and lighted near us, like robins or sparrows at home; while
everywhere the strange people, speaking an unknown tongue,
and living lives so different from our own, reminded us how far
we had come in our journey round the world.
We drove all day in and out of the town, with a very pains
taking native guide, who spoke fairly good English, enough for
us to understand, with the help of our books, the mosques and
temples and tombs he carried us about to see. It was an intro
duction to the wonderful Indian Saracenic architecture, and the
exquisite carving in marble and red sandstone, of which we were
to see more splendid specimens in Agra and Delhi. Nothing
amazed and interested us more than the beautiful pierced marble
lattice work, in place of windows, so delicately carved and in

24 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
such endless variety of patterns as to seem rather like the realiza
tion of some fairy tale than the actual work of human hands.
Some of the most beautiful of all we saw in screens sur
rounding the tomb of Shah Alam, remarkable also for its finely
hammered and perforated gates. Here a three days' festival had
just been held, the domes had been freshly whitewashed, and
were dazzling in the brilliant sunshine; and the tomb itself,
which was originally adorned with gold and precious stones and
still glittered with mother-of-pearl, had been covered with a new
and gorgeous canopy and with many floral and tinsel decora
tions. The approach to it was through the dirtiest and most
crowded of native bazaars, making the contrast as striking as
can well be imagined, when we suddenly came upon this noble
building with its lovely interior. We could not but think what
Ahmedabad must have been in its glory, toward the close of
the sixteenth century, when it is said there were not less than
one thousand mosques, tombs and cenotaphs in the city and
suburbs, all surrounded by carefully kept gardens.
Besides these relics of Mohammedan greatness, we saw
also, for the first time, a large and costly modern Hindu temple.
This was built, only some thirty years ago, by a rich Jain mer
chant, and cost, with the adjoining rest-house for pilgrims, over
,£100,000. It is dedicated to Dharmanath, one of the Jain
Tirthankars, or twenty-four deified men, whose image, crowned
with emeralds and diamonds, is in the inner temple. At the
Caves of Elephanta we had come face to face with the idolatry
of the past, but it was stranger still to meet it as a part of the
living heathen faith of the present day. By its side the Moham
medan simplicity of worship of the one God seemed very free'
from error, and yet the Moslem idea is so far from that of the
true God that some missionaries tell us they would far rather
deal with Hindu idolatry than with the false teaching of
Mahomet. Jeypore is another native city, but as different as possible
from Ahmedabad. Its Maharaja has a great admiration and
friendship for the English, and does much to make it an attrac-

AHMEDABAD AND JEYPORE. 25
tive place to them, as well as to introduce any improvements
that will be of benefit to his own people. There is a very beau
tiful park, in which is a remarkably good museum, Albert Hall,
the building in which it is arranged being one of the finest arch
itecturally of any of the modern buildings of India. In this park
the Maharaja's band plays frequently of an afternoon, and an
excellent band it is, too, and here the English and native resi
dents gather to enjoy the music and the flowers and to meet their
friends. The English Church in this place is lovely, especially the
interior, which is of white marble, and is surrounded, as' we find
it so often, with a pretty garden filled with the many tropical
plants and trees of which we never tire. It, as well as the homes
of the few English residents, is quite removed from the native
city, around which is a high wall with imposing gates.
This native city of Jeypore is the most extraordinary perhaps
that we shall see in India. All the homes without exception,
including the palace of the Maharaja, are washed with a bright
rose color stencilled with white; the streets are immensely wide;
and the bazaars, and the costumes, the bullock carts with their
crimson and gold cloth hangings, the hundreds of pigeons in
Fountain Square, the camels, the peacocks (to kill one of which
is a crime punished by imprisonment), and finally the elephants,
gorgeously caparisoned, make up a panorama that can never be
properly described or painted. We counted twenty elephants in
the street the first afternoon we were there; and as a Moham
medan festival of some kind was going on, with banners flying
and any number of men playing on native instruments, crowds
of people in their newest finery, and games and side shows of
all sorts, we have a bewildering recollection of all the distracting
sights of that most interesting and curious town.
From Jeypore we made an excursion to the old palace at
Amber, driving about six miles in carriages to the foot of the
long and high hill on the top of which the palace is situated.
There we were met by elephants, kindly lent by the Maharaja,
with an escort of his servants bearing shields upon which was

26 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
his coat of arms ; and then, with a good deal of anxiety lest it
should prove an alarming pleasure, we were mounted upon a
howdah for an elephant ride of an hour up that steep and rather
dangerous looking hill. A very short experience, however, soon
relieved all our fears, and, when we had learned how to balance
ourselves, we found it very easy and secure riding, and enjoyed
both the going up and the coming down again very thoroughly.
The palace itself is a charming old place, with a pretty gar
den and a fine view, and great courts and corridors, decorated
with carving and the remains of past splendor. In itself it was not
at all equal to other palaces we saw later, but as an expedition,
including the elephant ride, it was a daylong to be remembered,
one of the most delightful of our whole journey across India.
Here we saw the pomegranate and the custard apple, the
mango and the guava; great fields of cotton; miles of cactus
hedges; the pampas grass, tall and feathery, used by the natives
for brooms, to thatch their homes, and for many other useful
purposes; and always more camels and elephants and monkeys
and parrots, and the never-ending, ever-varying human life and
dress and occupation — most interesting of all.
The Scotch and Irish Presbyterians have missions near
Ahmedabad and in Jeypore, and the experiment has been tried of
establishing separate villages of Christian converts, and of intro
ducing among them some modern improvements in the way of
farming implements, etc. I was sorry not to have time to
visit one of these villages; but we were told that they were
fairly successful, from a financial point of view, while there are
manifest advantages in removing from their heathen homes and
connections disciples whose faith might not easily bear the
strain and pressure of old association and influence.
The journey to Jeypore from Ahmedabad took a day and a
night, nearly twenty-four hours, and from there we started again
for our third night in a sleeping car on the East Indian Railway.
This is something quite different from a sleeping car in America,
the stuffed leather covered seats, forming beds at night, being
the only provision made for comfort. No bedding whatever is

AHMEDABAD AND JEYPORE. 27
furnished, each passenger being expected to provide what is
required ; and as the weather had already begun to be much
colder, our steamer rugs and an extra supply of pillows, and thin
comfortables purchased in Bombay, were all required, as well as
winter wraps to keep us warm and to give us a fairly good rest.
Still there are some advantages we learned not to despise. The
officials never insist on letting down the upper berth when
there is no one to occupy it; and a party of six, like our own, can
easily secure a whole carriage, with two compartments, for a
journey, and be free from the intrusion of strangers. Very toler
able meals are provided along the way, and nearly anywhere a cup
of tea will be brought to the window. The stations of the road
are remarkably good buildings, and all have neat, well-kept gar
dens, usually gorgeous with bourgainvillia, begonia and mari
golds. At many of them good rooms are attached, where trav
ellers can stay for one night, and at Ahmedabad, where there was
no hotel, only a government dak bungalow, we were glad to
take them, and were made sufficiently comfortable. There
the garden was adorned with two lofty minarets, the remains of
a mosque destroyed in a war between the Mohammedans and
the Marathi, and it was really not only a pretty but a very pic
turesque place.
But, to be sure, a journey round the world means variety in
ways and means of travelling, as well as in the sights one sees,
and it is not hard to overlook any inconveniences no greater
than those we met with in crossing India, for the sake of all of
profit and of pleasure that such a journey brings.
If these slight sketches of travel should lead some who read
them to take a similar journey at some future day, they may be
certain beforehand of meeting with no serious discomfort, and
of finding at every turn something that will throw new light
upon life, and make them thankful for the opportunity and
privilege of seeing so much of this wonderful world in which
we live.

V.
DELHI AND AGRA.
npHE eight days and a half that v/e spent in Delhi and Agra, from
' our arrival at the former place at six o'clock on the morn
ing of January 18, until we left the latter place at noon on Jan
uary 26, were simply crowded full with varied interests.
Here we were everywhere reminded of the Great Akbar
who consolidated the Empire of India, and made the Mogul
dynasty what it was, and of his grandson, Shah Jehan, the most
magnificent of all the monarchs who ever reigned over the land.
At Delhi when we visited the fort and palace, and saw the
Hall of Public Audience, of marble, inlaid with beautiful mosaics,
the Hall of Special Audience, all white marble and gold, in which
was formerly the peacock throne; the Royal Baths, originally
inlaid with precious stones; the Pearl Mosque, a perfect gem of
white marble, with black lines which bring into relief the ex
quisite work on the walls; and the great mosque, the Jumma
Musjid, outside the walls, it seemed as if our powers of wonder
and admiration were exhausted. And then we went to Agra,
and there was everything repeated, but still more grand and beau
tiful, and the tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, and the tomb of the
Great Akbar at Secundra, and more than all, the Taj Mahal, per
haps the most exquisitely perfect building — certainly the most
exquisitely perfect building of its kind — in the world.
It would be folly for me to attempt to describe what has
been so often and so enthusiastically described by other and far
more skilful pens than mine. I can only say that nothing I had
ever read at all prepared me for the actual sight of these many
and splendid tombs and mosques and palaces, or for that won
derful pillar of victory, the Kutab Minar, to which we drove
from Delhi. All the marvels of the Arabian Nights seem possi
ble after sights like these.

DELHI AND AGRA. 29
We saw the Taj first in the glow of the afternoon sun, then
in a rosy sunset, then in the twilight, with the new moon and
the evening star above, again at mid-day, and on our last eve
ning, by a clear moonlight, when it was lovelier than ever. The
gardens give an additional charm to its beauty, just now full and
fragrant with the flowers we most love at home, roses and mign
onette and daisies, heliotrope and verbena and nasturtiums,
while the bourgainvillia and begonia here as everywhere made
a second sunshine.
But there were other and far different interests in Delhi and
Agra. Here we first came upon the memorials of the terrible
Sepoy Mutiny of 1857. We saw at Delhi the Cashmere Gate,
where, at such fearful cost, the city was retaken from the muti
neers. We stood by the grave of Gen. John Nicholson, one of
the bravest of England's many brave soldiers, who died in the
hour of victory. We drove to the Mutiny Memorial Monument
with its crowning cross of peace. We read the tablets in St.
James's Memorial Church, and gazed with inexpressible feelings
upon the Memorial Cross in the churchyard, upon which are
inscribed the words:
" Sacred to the memory of those Christians who were mur
dered at Delhi in May, 1857; and in gratitude to God for His
mercy in having spared a remnant of His people to erect this
cross." I must copy the lines from one tablet in the church, or the
pathos of this inscription can never be clearly understood.
"Sacred to the memory of Thomas W. Collins, Esq., many
years Deputy Collector of Delhi. His wife, Eleanor, and mother-
in-law, Mrs. E. P. Staines, three brothers-in-law, J. W. and E.
W. Staines, and G. R. White. Four sisters-in-law, Mrs. A.
Hunt, Mrs. Eliza Cochrane, Mrs. A. White and Miss Christiana
Staines. Seven nephews, William C. and Lewis C. Staines,
George L. Hunt, James, Henry and Edward White, and an infant
son of G. R. White. Three nieces, Margaret and Mary Hunt
and Christiana White. Three grandchildren, John T. C, Jos
ephine T. C. and J. O'R. C. Leeson. All barbarously murdered

30 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
at Delhi, on or about May ii, 1857. Also Hannah Collins,
mother, J. R. Collins, brother, and Janet Collins, sister-in-law of
T. W. Collins. The former was killed at Futtyghur, and the
two latter at Futtypore by the mutineers in June, 1857. Also
Robert P. O'Connor, nephew of T. W. Collins, who was killed
at Agra on July 6, 1857.
" ' In the midst of life we are in death.'
" 'The Lord gave and the Lord hath taken away. Blessed be
the name of the Lord.'
"This tablet has been erected by the surviving orphans of
T. W. Collins."
At a distance it may seem almost too dreadful a thing to re
call so vividly these long past horrors, but not here on the very
ground itself. There is an awful solemnity in the thought that one
is standing close by the very spot where such a fearful outbreak
of a savage people once took place; but it is soothed and calmed
by the atmosphere of holy Christian resignation which is felt like
a heavenly glow about each cross that marks the scene of mas
sacre, no less than it is uplifted by the thrill of Christian heroism
inspired by every stone that tells where an English soldier fell
in the finally successful endeavor to drive back the tide of bar
barism, and plant once more, and more firmly, peace and order
in its place. It is because peace and order reign to-day in India,
under the English flag, that the lives of missionaries are secure,
and that missionary work has tenfold the strength here to-day
that it had before that terrible conflict, only a single generation ago.
Missions of every kind are strong, both in Delhi and Agra,
especially the English Baptists, the American Methodists, the
Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, and the Church Mis
sionary Society, and the Cambridge Brothers. There are schools
and colleges and mission churches, day schools in the heart
of native cities, both among Mohammedans and Hindus,
zenana homes and much visiting in the harems, with large em
ployment of native teachers and helpers, both men and women.
I made many acquaintances among the missionaries in both
places, seeing nearly all in Agra at a weekly evening Bible read-

DELHI AND AGRA. 31
ing, which is held from house to house in turn; attending a sew
ing meeting in Delhi, where also I spent a morning going about
with one of the zenana ladies to her schools and into the homes
of her people; and visiting several of them socially. It was a
great pleasure and I trust most profitable, for it gave me the op
portunity to ask the thousand and one questions that had been
accumulating on the journey, and to gain an amount of infor
mation in regard to English experience and methods that no
books or reports could ever give. I parted from them with real
regret, feeling that only a beginning had been made in all 1
wished to learn, and that it would have been a privilege and a
happiness if I could have stayed for weeks longer in their
company. More and more I realize what a loss those travellers experi
ence who pass through a country and see nothing of the missions
and the missionaries that are so important a factor in making it
what it is. Aside from any religious motive or sympathy, 'no
one is so well qualified as a missionary, long resident in a foreign
land, to throw light upon the customs and life of the land, and
to give to a journey that interest which the best and most
spirited guide book fails to impart. An intelligent traveller is
beset by ideas and problems that never occur at home or in the
study of the printed page, and there is no better interpreter or
teacher to be found in unravelling the puzzles that come up, day
by day, than the thoughtful missionary, whose very life-work it
is to consider and to solve them. If this were better understood,
a missionary directory would be considered a necessary part of
the foreign traveller's outfit.

VI.
CAWNPORE AND LUCKNOW.
HpO our great surprise, we found that many travellers were in-
1 clined to leave out both Lucknow and Cawnpore from their
list of stopping places in crossing India, because, as they said,
there was so little to be seen there, nothing, indeed, but places
connected with the Mutiny. It is true that we found no Moham
medan mosques and palaces and no Hindu temples worth visit
ing, after Delhi and Agra, and no native city to compare with
Ahmedabad or Jeypore; but not one of our party would have
missed the story of the three massacres on the very ground
where they occurred at Cawnpore, or the intensely interesting
morning among the ruins of the Residency at Lucknow, for the
sake of any other sight along the way. An old soldier, one of
Havelock's men, and one of the few remaining of those who
were in the Relief of both Cawnpore and Lucknow, wearing the
silver Mutiny Medal, exhibited to us the Government Medal of
the Residency, and told us the story of his own experiences in
answer to our many questions, in a simple and unaffected style
that gave the crowning touch to all that we had seen and heard
before. In these days of railways and telegraphs, it is next to im
possible that such an outbreak with such fearful results could
again occur, but it seems as though no one could ever properly
appreciate the sense of safety with which the tourist passes
through India to-day until there has been some realization of the
price that was once paid for that protection and security. Herein
is an allegory which the Christian will understand.
It is not all sad and painful either. The sight of the be
leaguered camp at Cawnpore, from which General Wheeler and
his little company were tempted forth by the treachery of the
Nana, has been turned into a garden full of beds of roses and
other sweet flowers, carefully cultivated by the English soldiers;

CAWNPORE AND LUCKNOW. ^
and there is the Memorial Church, dedicated to All Souls, in
memory of those who fell, and " as a thank offering for the pres
ervation of a greater number who were through the mercy of
God delivered from so great a peril." In the chancel, engraved on
white marble tablets set in a stone framework, are the names of
those who were killed and who died at Cawnpore during the
Mutiny, including the fugitives from Fatehgarh, while the painting
of the ceiling overhead represents the countless hosts of heaven.
And then, after seeing everything else, we come to the
lovely grounds around the Memorial Well, and there the voice is
hushed instinctively and you go softly, the horses being walked
as if following a funeral. It is most beautiful and touching, and
as you stand beside the spot where one of the most fearful
tragedies of history took place, the thing most of all to be re
membered is how the horror of it all melted gradually away, as
somebody has said, " in a sort of tearful tender mournfulness,
as if you stood by the grave of a friend peculiarly dear." A
green sloped mound covers the well, surmounted by a monu
ment, on the pedestal of which, running round the rim of the
well, are these words: " Sacred to the memory of a great com
pany of Christian people, chiefly women and children, who near
this spot were cruelly massacred by the followers of the Rebel
Nana Dhoondo Punt of Bithoor, and cast, the dying with the
dead, into the well below, on July 15, MDCCCLVII."
Above is a beautiful screen, over the portal of which is
written: " These are they which came out of great tribulation."
The screen is elaborately carved in white marble, and completely
encircles the mound, while within, on the pedestal, also delicate
ly wrought, is the most exquisite statue by Marochetti. It rep
resents an angel of peace, standing in sweet sad calm, the head
bent and a palm branch in the hand, a perfect mingling of sor
row and triumph, of peace and hope and forgiveness. No
natives are allowed to enter the sacred enclosure, but the faces
of those we saw standing near showed a great awe and solem
nity, as if they felt, without quite understanding, the lesson of
the place.

34 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
It is not easy to explain why, but here in Cawnpore, perhaps
to English-speaking people the saddest spot in all India, I seemed
best to realize the mission of the English-speaking race to this
vast country with its 200,000,000 of Hindus. Here was pointed
out to us the site of Henry Martyn's church-bungalow, on which
it has been proposed that a Cornish cross shall be erected to
mark it for coming generations. Here he baptized Abdul Masih,
his first and perhaps his only native convert, afterwards ordained
by Bishop Heber and sent to Agra to minister till his death, long
after Henry Martyn himself, far off in Persia, had passed to his
heavenly reward. "The blood of the martyrs is the seed of the
Church," and since it is out of death and failure and disaster and
almost despair, that the life and success and joy and triumph of
the Christian comes, we learn what it is " not to sorrow as men
without hope," and to long for, and look forward to, better and
brighter days, no matter what the darkness of the present hour
may be.
This year follows close upon the Centennial Celebrations of
Carey's Mission to India, and, in reading of one of those celebra
tions in London, I came upon a passage that I recalled with
fresh interest in Cawnpore, under the shadow of the Memorial
Angel, and on the spot made sacred by the presence of Henry
Martyn. Lucknow is to-day full of missions and missionaries,
both English and American. It is the headquarters of the Amer
ican Methodist Mission, of which I saw a great deal, feeling
especial interest in the deaconess work, and in Miss Thoburn's
well-known High School and College for Women ; and, in Cawn
pore, All Souls' Memorial Church is a standing witness to the
deepest and most profound truths of Christianity. I like to link
them both in my mind with the hope that the following words
may find an echo in many a Christian heart and a response from
many a Christian purse and life:
" What will men see in the Second Centenary meetings ?
Will they see that England led nobly, and that all who spoke the
mother tongue gave bountiful help to the motherland in preach
ing Christ crucified in India and Ceylon, to Tamil and Singhalese,

CAWNPORE AND LUCKNOW. 35
to Aryans and Dravidians and tribes of the hills, to Parsi and
Jain, Buddhist, Muslim and Hindu ? Will they see that the
greatest colonizers, traders and governors of the world gave
their whole hearts to missions ? . . .
"That missions will extend and bless the world is as cer
tain as anything future can be ; but whether the Church of to-day
will rise up to the greatness of her unequalled opportunity is less
certain by far. It may be that the century we are entering
upon will be written down by the Church historian of the future
a dreary failure in missions, when the actual is set against the
possible. Relief and deliverance will surely arise for the nations,
but evangelists from other lands, other races, other times, may
take our crown. For certainly the question on which the glory
or the shame of Christian England depends in our day and that
of our children is this: What are we going to do to lead India
in this crisis of her long history, to Jesus Christ ? . . .
" If angels were permitted to evangelize that land, there
would be joy because of it in the presence of God. If, at a
voice from the throne, they saw that land, ripe now after long
ages, and lying open in the fulness of time for the messengers
of Christ, there would be no lack if a thousand volunteers were
required every year to tell of the Lamb slain, though He was not
slain for them. All heaven would watch them descend year
after year to the plains below the sun; and watch again for their
return after the little human term appointed for their stay had
passed by; and permission to go would be welcomed as distin
guishing grace, and sorrows and trials for Christ accounted
greater riches than the treasures of heaven. And if the wealth
of that land were required of the angels who remained behind,
in order to equip those who were going out, how diligently those
treasures would be gathered and how freely given ! It would
be a strange sight to see reluctant angels; passing strange to see
them preferring even heavenly homes to errands of mercy;
shocking to see them hoarding or wasting riches that God had
need of for His work. How could grudging angels find pleasure
in always beholding the Father's face ?

36 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
"To the Lamb that was slain, not for angels, but for men,
the Church may show sights and sounds as strange. He hears
some men, redeemed by His Blood, declining foreign service,
others even refusing subscriptions to foreign missions. He sees
small sums over against names written in heaven, and knows
what large treasures the steward holds from Him. But He sees
and also receives the gifts and service from hearts of love as
well. For He is walking the earth still, as in Carey's day, and
calling men to share His sorrow and His pity forthe wide world.
But men are incredulous that they come face to face with Him
in every call to service, and unaware that they see Him in all
human need. When saw we Thee hungry, thirsty, naked, sick,
in prison ? So men serve Him, or refuse to serve Him, all down
the ages. "Carey heard Him in the need of India, and obeyed His
call a hundred years ago. Reader, rich or poor, does Christ call
on thee for help for India ? Wilt thou take counsel with Him,
and do what He wishes thee, there or here ? If so, whether
that work be great or small in man's sight, God speed thee in
¦the task that Jesus Christ assigns thee, and when thou givest
into the pierced hand an account of this thy stewardship, may
He who takes it look on thee kindly, and say, ' Well done! ' "

VII.
BENARES.
VI O doubt a great majority of those who, in an earlier genera-
^ tion, were taught to feel an interest in missionary work,
received their first impressions of the heathen, and of heathen
lands, from some account of India and the Ganges. Many a
mother can recall to-day the picture shown to her as a child, of
mothers throwing their babies into the sacred river to be eaten
by the crocodiles, of widows burning to death on their husbands'
funeral pile, of crowds of frantic devotees crushed beneath the
Car of Juggernath.
We saw the Ganges first at Cawnpore, but it was at the
Massacre Ghat, and our memories were full of other tales, and
our imaginations of other scenes; so that it was not until we
reached Benares that we could bring ourselves, in an uninter
rupted way, to dwell upon the strength of the Hindu religion as
exemplified here, and as emphasized by all the traditions of the
past. Happily, many of the horrors of the missionary stories of
our childhood are past indeed, for it is long years since infanti
cide and Suttee and suicidal worship have been abolished under
English rule. One wonders that they could ever have been al
lowed, under the widest interpretation of the compact that there
should be no official interference with the religions of India; but
it is something that the time came at last when it was decided
that such a compact could not be considered binding when
human life was at stake.
Every book on India describes Benares and the Ganges, but,
like much else in this strange and most interesting country, no
description seems to prepare the reader for the actual reality. My
own first and last impressions were of decay, and of the won
derful prophecy contained in the slipping and sliding masses of

38 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
buildings, the gray, crumbling palaces, the immense recumbent
idols of wood and paint and clay, sure to be swept to destruc
tion by the next monsoon. Indeed, our Brahmin guide told us
quite calmly, that new gods were made each year, just before
the annual festival; and that, when a palace fell to the ground,
they did not rebuild it farther back from the river, or with better
foundations, but only put an extra image or two in front to
guard it. I thought how often I had heard this city called the
stronghold of Hinduism, and of the doubting criticism upon
missionary work, because millions of devotees still make a pil
grimage to its sacred site, the object of the devotion of a lifetime.
It may be a long contest yet between the gods of the heathen
and Christianity, and the means used, and their immediate
results may be poor and small; but it is like the children of
Israel, marching, at the command of Israel's God, around the
walls of Jericho. One of these days the Ganges itself will rise
and sweep the whole of Benares away. Even the Brahmins
themselves believe it, and they see the time drawing near and
confess it, even to the passing traveller.
We visited at Benares the well-established work of the
Church Missionary Society, under the care of the Rev. Mr.
Davis, one of the senior missionaries of the society in India.
Hundreds of boys and young men pass under his influence every
year in the schools and college of which he is in charge, while a
number of families, comprising some two hundred persons,
are gathered into a Christian village around his home and the
church in which they worship together. Close by are the large
and attractive compounds belonging to the orphanage and the
Girls' Normal School, the latter one of the most interesting and
pleasing institutions we have seen in India. It has been estab
lished thirty-five years, and is composed of girls and young
women, daughters of native Christians, or else converts sent by
missionaries from different stations, who are being trained to
work as teachers or Bible women among their own people. A
class of eleven went out last year, and similar classes have been
steadily going out all over the country for an entire generation.

BENARES. 39
Mrs. Barr, and her assistants, Miss Bedford and Miss Smith, all
seem devoted to the eighty pupils entrusted to them, and the
bright, intelligent and happy faces of the pupils themselves
showed how entirely they responded to the loving and patient
teaching of their English friends.
At our various stopping places in our journey through India,
we have come upon other parties of Round-the-World travellers,
fifteen in all, beside our own. Some were from England and some
were from America. Most of them were taking the same route
as ourselves, but three or four were coming from the opposite
direction, having already visited China and Japan, and with these
especially we had much conversation, comparing notes, and
giving information as to hotels and sights to be seen at the dif
ferent points along the way. Out of all the fifteen parties, only
one showed any real interest in the missionary work of the
countries through which they were passing, and that, I am
happy to say, was composed of our own fellow-countrymen and
fellow-Churchmen. Others, of course, might have a different
experience, but this was ours.
I have to confess that it is not an easy matter to combine
a visit to the many wonderful and curious sights the traveller
naturally wishes to see in a foreign land, with that intelligent
view of missions which enables the visitor to carry away more
than a mere superficial impression; and one must be impelled
by a strong sense of duty, or by a sincere love for the cause, or
both, to accomplish the two things satisfactorily. I could not
do it myself, in two months in India, with the best intentions,
so I have much sympathy for the tourist who does not even pro
fess to be making a missionary journey. At the same time,
when I think how much would have been lost out of those two
months, had the missionary part been omitted, I cannot but do
all in my power to urge those who contemplate a foreign tour
to give a prominent place to missions in their preparations and
their programme.
Nevertheless, after saying that, I must, in behalf of the mis
sionaries, add a word of caution. It is so easy to misunderstand

40 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
what one sees in a land to which one is unaccustomed, that the
traveller should be prepared to see much and to say little, and
above all, to be careful not to form hasty opinions, or to criticise
unfairly or unkindly. A missionary told me that some of her
friends in England expressed great surprise at hearing that she
had punkahs in her home, and thought them a needless luxury.
She said she could only ask, with some indignation, whether
fires would be considered a needless luxury, if her missionary
field happened to be in the Arctic region, instead of in the tropics.
I am led to touch upon this point, because a good deal of at
tention is being attracted in India to a new book, written by a
former missionary in this country, which it is hoped may be of use
both in America, where it is published, and also in England. It is
called "The Bishop's Conversion," and I should explain that the
story is a Methodist story, and the Bishop is a Methodist Bishop,
and the illustration, which gives a picture of the church of the
English-speaking people, is the American Methodist Church in
Lucknow; but, with that explanation, I am happy to bespeak for
the book a general reading among my many friends who care for
missions and missionaries, assuring them that it is not only an
entertaining and pathetic story, but a faithful picture of Lucknow
and of India, so far as I have myself seen and heard.
The serious and sorrowful truth is that the tourist, or the
missionary traveller even, passing through India in the cool and
pleasant months of the short winter, will see the country at its
best, and may, for that very reason, carry away an entirely false
idea of many things that might be, perhaps painfully, corrected
by a year's sojourn.
Some captious person said to me that, at Benares, I saw no
missionary work among the heathen, only work among native
Christians. If the simple proclamation of the Gospel, by the
river side or in the bazaar, be supposed to be the only missionary
work, that may be true indeed ; but if we believe that the best
and most lasting work of our missionaries is accomplished, when
they train native Christians to go out and work among their
own people, in ways often impossible to themselves, then such

BENARES. 41
a criticism can be readily answered, and possibly the individual
who makes it may be convinced. This is only an illustration of
what one constantly meets with, and suggests the kind of prep
aration needed for such a journey as this.
Although our own particular branch of the Church, through
its Domestic and Foreign Missionary Society, has no work here,
we can never forget while in India that we are part of a great
and world-wide Anglican Communion, and the labors of our
dear Mother Church of England must ever be very near our
hearts. Here also there are many grand missions that have been
greatly blessed, carried en by Presbyterians, Baptists and Metho
dists of our own land, always spoken of to us by our English
friends, as we travel from place to place, as "the American
missions," and representing to them often all they know of any
American Church. I sometimes become almost weary of ex
plaining why we do not ourselves undertake mission work in
India, or in any country belonging to the British Empire, and
therefore under the care of the English Church, but it is gratify
ing to find how readily the explanation is accepted, and what an
additional strength it seems to give to the bond that unites us,
when it is clearly understood.

I ''J J-Jm: \r ' "*tt» -
| ir is ¦- # .*

A MISSION SCHOOL IN INDIA.

VIII.
CALCUTTA.
\A/HEN travelling across India, stopping but two or three days
in any one city, and constantly occupied, so that it was
hard to find time for even brief and hurried letters, the thought
of three weeks in Calcutta seemed to promise unlimited leisure
for correspondence; but the result was far different from my ex
pectations. I arrived in the height of what may be called the missionary
season, to be the guest of a missionary, and to enter into the full
round of missionary engagements and activities. Each day
brought visits to fresh schools and missions and hospitals and
zenanas, with meetings of every kind, anniversaries, prize giv-
ings, Church services, Bible readings, all of which made up an
opportunity not to be lightly lost, but too absorbing for much
else for the time being. The short term of cool and pleasant
weather, succeeded so soon by intense heat and then by con
tinuous rains, crowds into the six weeks or two months after
Christmas all the social events of the year, as well among
missionaries as among other residents of the plains of India; and,
as a visitor from America, I was kindly welcomed to everything that
was going on in the missionary circle during my stay in Calcutta.
I made my home with the one representative of our own
American Church who is doing missionary work in India, Miss
E. G. Marston, who had written to ask me to do so while I was
still in Bombay. It was a pleasure to go with her to see the
school under her special charge, and the zenanas in which she
visits, and to become acquainted with the daily life of the
Mission House, and the three sweet young native Christian
teachers who are her assistants, and who make their home to
gether under its roof. But, in addition to this, I was much in
debted to Miss Marston for thoughtfully arranging hei work in

44 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
such a way as to be able herself to take me to other places and
missions I wished to see, her knowledge of the language, and
her eighteen years of residence, being of the greatest possible
value to me always.
Miss Marston's many personal friends and helpers in Amer
ica will not need to be assured of the excellence and faithfulness
of her work, but those who do not know her, but who have
read and perhaps occasionally responded to her printed appeals,-
may like to hear that, at her request, I went carefully over every
detail of it, and all her accounts. After doing so, and after see
ing much of similar work, not only in Calcutta, but in so many
other places in India, I am glad of this opportunity to commend
it warmly to those of our own Communion who are interested
in zenana missions and desire to aid them.
The mission is an independent one, but it is so far affiliated
with the English Church Missionary Society as to receive all the
benefit of countenance and counsel that can be given by the
local secretary. The Rev. Mr. Clifford, now Bishop of Luck
now, while holding that office, was Miss Marston's valued friend
and adviser; and his successor, the Rev. Mr. Ireland Jones, and
his substitute during an absence in England, the Rev. Mr. Wil
liamson, both express themselves as most ready to do for her
anything that may be in their power.
Miss Marston has been, during all the eighteen years she has
lived in Calcutta, a member of the Old Mission Church, in which
Henry Martyn once preached, and which is the centre of the
Church Missionary Society's operations; but she also attends the
Sunday morning service of the Bengali church of the same
society, with her teachers, as they are unacquainted with the
English language. It is hardly necessary to say that I went to
both, but I would like to add how much at home I grew to feel
in the beautiful compound of the Church Missionary Society, so
bright with exquisite flowers and so shaded by lofty trees, and
especially in the Church House where, on every Friday evening,
all the missionaries of the society gather for a Bible reading and
study, led by one of the clergy.

CALCUTTA. 45
I was fortunate in being in Calcutta during the visit of Mr.
Eugene Stock, editorial secretary of the society in London,
whose name is familiar to our own missionary workers and also
to Sunday-school teachers. He conducted the Bible reading on
one evening, and also, under license from the Bishop, preached
on one of the three Sunday mornings, beside addressing a meet
ing of the Gleaners' Union at the Bengali church, his remarks
being interpreted to the very large and attentive congregation of
men and women and boys and girls.
Another evening I was invited to attend a drawing-room
meeting at the Doremus American-Zenana Mission, addressed by
Dr. Clark, of the Christian Endeavor Society, also travelling
through India; and there were similar drawing-room meetings at
which I was present, held at private homes, in behalf of the
Young Women's Christian Association, addressed by Miss Nes-
bit, sent out from England for that purpose.
Occasionally I was myself called upon for something of the
same kind of pleasant work, and I was glad to tell the boys of
the Bengali boarding school about our own Indian boys in Amer
ica, and the girls of Christ church boarding school, under the
veteran missionary, Miss Neale, who has been nearly thirty-five
years in India, about their Indian sisters in my own land, and
the girls of St. Mary's School, Shanghai, and of Mrs. Brierley's
School in Africa. It was a special pleasure to form, in Miss
Marston's Zenana Mission House, a Bengali branch of the
Woman's Auxiliary, pledged to use our Auxiliary collects at
least once every week, and to send a box of curios for the mis
sionary cabinet of the Auxiliary rooms in the new Church
Missions House, and a contribution, in money, to the next
united offering of the Auxiliary.
We had a prize giving, too, of our own, in addition to
others connected with different schools and missions, when
dolls and scrap-books, and work-bags, sent out in boxes from
America, were distributed among the happy children under Miss
Marston's care, in the presence of many English and American
friends, after which came a magic lantern exhibition, kindly

46 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
given by the Rev. Mr. Gwinn, of the Church Missionary
Society. There are, I was told, at least thirty-five different missionary
societies represented in the one city of Calcutta. Without speak
ing positively about that, I can say that I visited, beside those I
have mentioned, the missions and schools of the Established
Church of Scotland, the Free Church of Scotland, the English
Baptists, the American Methodists, and the Salvation Army, and
that I saw something of many others, including the Oxford
Brethren, and the Sisters of St. John Baptist. Most of these
thirty-five societies are brought together monthly in a missionary
conference-, and if all are as interesting as the one I was asked to
attend, I do not wonder that the missionaries look forward to
them as times of refreshing. The subject on this occasion was
" Impressions of the Bombay Decennial Conference," and was
introduced by an admirable paper, from the Rev. Mr. Wann, of
the Scotch Church, followed by a great deal of very lively but
thoroughly friendly and good-humored discussion.
In referring to fellow-travellers in India, I must not forget
to mention the pleasant surprise of meeting Lord and Lady
Meath in Calcutta, and of being with them at two large gather
ings, one of children and one of adults, in connection with the
Ministering Children's League. They had started on a P. and O.
steamer for Egypt, but, finding the trip an agreeable one, had
kept on to Colombo and so on to Madras, and up to Calcutta,
and were returning across country via Bombay, utilizing their
visit, as we have so often known them to do in America, by in
troducing, wherever they went, the lovely little society with
which their names are so closely associated.
And so it has come to pass that in this, my last stopping
place in India, with the exception of a visit to the temple of the
ferocious goddess Kali, thronged by a pilgrimage of 4,000 wor
shippers, I have seen less than elsewhere of heathenism, and
more of the Christian natives and foreign residents, and visitors
who are seeking to drive out the darkness by a vigorous and per
sistent bringing in of the light.

CALCUTTA. 47
Instead of thinking of India any longer as a foreign mission
ary field, I begin to look upon it rather as the domestic mission
ary field of England. In speaking with a young Englishman in
business in this country, I said something to him about being far
from home. His reply was that he did not feel so at all, and
that he was much more at home in India, and would much
rather live here, than in France or Germany, or any place on the
continent of Europe. To us it is foreign, because it is not under
the flag of the United States, and because it contains such hosts
of heathen people; but perhaps it would be right to say, only in
the same sense in which the Indian reservations of Minnesota
or South Dakota, or Chinatown in San Francisco, or many parts
of the South where the negro population is large, might be for
eign to the English Churchman. Just so far as we welcome
English workers like the Cowley Fathers or the Clewer Sisters in
America, so far workers of the American Church are welcome
here. I think that is a fair way of putting it, and will make
sufficiently clear the impression I have gained by much conver
sation with those whom I have met. As fellow-helpers and
"workers together," English-speaking Churchmen and Church-
women are bound up in a common bond of sympathy and union
which we may all fervently trust will never be broken, but
rather strengthened year by year, and lengthened, until it not
only extends around the world, but into every nook and corner
where the English-speaking race may penetrate. If we can but say
to others with sincerity and thanksgiving : ' 'Behold, how good and
joyful a thing it is, brethren, to dwell together in unity!" we
shall have indeed emphasized by example that principle of Chris
tian unity laid down at Chicago and at Lambeth, which some
day we trust will prevail throughout the entire Christian Church.
In saying farewell to India, I shall carry away a thousand
memories of new interests and kind friends and wonderful
sights; and I can but hope that many Americans who love the
missionary work will travel through this country in years to
come, and find in it all the pleasure and the profit that I have
found, and more.

IX.
COLOMBO AND KANDY.
/^\N February 2^, we were sailing out from the dangerous
^ channel of the Hooghly River into the Bay of Bengal, on the
favorite P and O. steamship, "Coromandel"; and on Sunday,
February 26, just two months from the day we first set foot on
the shores of India, we landed once more, and for the last time,
in the port of Madras. Here we had the novel experience of
being carried from our boat to land by the natives, a rude bit of
board serving sufficiently well for a chair; and here we attended
service at the cathedral, especially interesting to us because of
the monuments it contains of Bishop Corrie teaching a young
Indian to read the Bible and of Bishop Heber confirming two
natives. Early in the morning of March 1 we arrived at Ceylon, and
here we passed twelve delightful days, though unintentionally
to me, because I had quite expected to make a close connection
with the China mail steamship " Maleva," in which expectation
I was disappointed, and was forced to wait for the "Mirzapore."
Now, I cannot think how any one would willingly pass this
lovely island by, for climate and luxuriant tropical scenery com
bine to make it one of the most enchanting spots on the face of
the globe, and the drives in and about Colombo and Kandy will
be the last in all my journey to be forgotten.
In Colombo I first made acquaintance with the jinrikisha,
and, in this quaint and convenient little vehicle, I learned to
know the charm of the early morning in the tropics, going out
with the sunrise into the shadiest and most secluded byways of
Mutwal, and Kollupitiya, and returning by the glorious surf-
beach along the Galle Face Road.
The first morning a party of us stopped at a Buddhist tem
ple, and as we came away I said to my jinrikisha boy, " Do

COLOMBO AND KANDY.

49

you go there to worship? Are you a Buddhist?" "No," he
answered in his broken English, " I not a Buddhist, I Christian."
Then after a pause he added, "I not Roman Catholic. I Chris
tian." Further questioning brought out a good deal of infor
mation about his " Padre Sahib " and the " Lord Bishop Sahib,"
and the church he went to, where he said there were Sisters who
had schools, and his father and mother, who were Singhalese and
Christians, too; and so David and I became very good friends,
and he was on the watch for me with his jinrikisha every
morning afterwards as I came out for my early ride.
He took me to his church, St. Michael and All Angels', and
to St. Margaret's Home, where five of the Sisters of St. Margaret,
East Grinsted, have an orphanage of over fifty little girls, and a

ROAD TO CINNAMON GARDENS, COLOMBO.

50 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
boarding school for those whose parents can pay a very small
sum for about as many more. The Sister Superior kindly in
vited me to visit them, and, under her guidance and that of the
Rev. Mr. de Silva, Singhalese deacon, I saw the most interesting
work of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in the
Singhalese churches and village schools, as afterwards, under the
Rev. Mr. Barnabas, a Tamil priest, I saw similar work among
the Tamils in Kandy.
These village schools, something like what we should call
country or district schools at home, are quite different from any
thing I had seen elsewhere. To reach them we often went far
in from the main road, by some side path or across a rude stile,
into the very heart of the jungle, where cocoanut trees and the
jack fruit, the bread fruit and the banana, with brilliant flower
ing tulip trees, and many others still more strange to me, made
most picturesque surrounding to the simple thatched bungalow
in which the group of from thirty to one hundred black and
brown children were gathered for instruction.
How primitive these schools are, and how far removed from
European civilization, will be best understood when I state that
one little girl about six years old wept bitterly at sight of us, and
the teacher, after comforting and soothing her, explained to us
that she was afraid, and that she had probably never before seen
a white person in all her short life.
Three of the Tamil schools in Kandy are for such very poor
children that books and slates are not used, but instead the long
leaves of the talipot palm, the- same that are used by Buddhists
for their sacred writings. The one connected with St.
Paul's Church is, however, of higher grade. It is in two divi
sions, in one of which the boys are all Buddhists, Hindus and
Mohammedans, allowed to come by their parents for the sake
of learning English, and in the other all are Christians or the
children of Christian parents. Conversions take place, occasion
ally, and the teachers are always hopeful, especially those who,
like Mr. de Silva, themselves became converts to Christianity in
just such schools.

COLOMBO AND KANDY.

3'

ltis so hard for us to realize that we can be useful in small
ways, that I was truly surprised after we had visited twelve of
these schools in and near Colombo to have Sister Joanna say
that it was impossible to guess what good might have been
done, both to pupils and teachers, just by one thus going to see
them and showing a sincere interest in them. I had been so
interested and so benefited myself as quite to overlook the fact
that what was such a real and novel pleasure could be in itself a
kind of missionary work. But when I came to think of it and
to talk it over more carefully, I could easily see what a help in
telligent and sympathetic travellers might always be to the mis
sionaries and to those among whom they labor.

NATIVE BAZAAR, COLOMBO.

It is a pity that this should be overlooked by tourists, and it
is a still greater pity that they should not know what harm they
ignorantly do to the cause of Christianity while often thinking
only of gratifying curiosity. On one of our expeditions David

52 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
remarked to me, "Many English gentlemen and ladies Budd
hists." "Oh! no," I replied, feeling shocked at his having such
an impression, but when I repeated his remark to the Sister
Superior she said she did not wonder at his idea, because visitors
to the temples were so often careless in regard to their behavior,
and thought it no harm to place flowers on the shrines of idols
when asked to do so. She said the Bishop had seriously contem
plated writing a notice and putting it in some public place, in the
hotels or on the landing jetty, begging them to be more cautious,
for the sake of these poor, weak and easily influenced people.
She said that when the sons of the Prince of Wales visited
India and Ceylon they went to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth at
Kandy, and although it was not at all likely that they really did
offer a flower or anything of the kind, when they went out on
the balcony above the lake, a priest took occasion to say to the
crowd gathered to see them, in their own language, which, of
course, the princes could not understand, something like this:
"The great Queen and Empress is herself really a follower of our
Lord Buddha, and she has now sent her grandsons to do homage
at his shrine. Here they are, you can see them for yourselves."
I repeat the story as a striking illustration of unintentional
evil, and of the most painful hindrances in the way of the good
that the missionaries try to do. But what can one say of tour
ists who pay for an exhibition of devil-dancers and devil-wor
shippers ? Surely only the most thoughtless persons could
possibly do anything of that kind.
In Kandy the Church Missionary Society has established
Trinity College, where 300 boys are being trained, and the same
society has much work in Colombo, and also in Cotta, a few
miles distant, where especially there is a very valuable training
school for girls who are to be teachers.
There was a prize-giving at Slave Island School, and a meet
ing of the Gleaners' Union at Christ Church, Galle Face, while
we were at Colombo, and there also we visited St. Thomas's
College, of nearly 300 boys, connected with the cathedral, and
maintained by the Society forthe Propagation of the Gospel.

COLOMBO AND KANDY.

53

Material is abundant for many and varied letters, but it is
possible that this sketch in outline of what is waiting to be seen
by those who journey round the world may be more enticing
than full and graphic description. Some of the charm is taken
away if we know too well beforehand all there is to see and to
enjoy when travelling in foreign lands. A certain amount of
preparation is necessary, and of anticipation, and then a readi
ness to turn aside a little from the beaten track, and look, with
the enthusiasm of the explorer, for some things not laid down
in guide books. Nowhere, certainly, can there be a better field
for such ever fresh and alluring interest than in this beautiful and
most attractive island of Ceylon.

INTERIOR OF A BUDDHIST TEMPLE, COLOMBO.

X.
PENANG, SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG.
A T Colombo, I parted reluctantly for a time from the kind
** friends who had done so much to make my travels thus
far easy and pleasant, leaving them to stay a while longer in
Ceylon and to visit Java. Many other acquaintances formed in India
and on the route were, however, also on board the "Mirzapore,"
so that the new stage of the journey began auspiciously, while
fresh acquaintances were made on this steamer that added
greatly to the value and interest of the trip.
The Bishop of Singapore and Sarawak, with his wife, came
on at Penang, and through them I had the opportunity of learn
ing much about the work in this missionary diocese, including
the island of Borneo, with the extensive missions among the
Dyaks, once Malay pirates. They took me home to lunch with
them after service at the cathedral, the Sunday we were in Sing
apore, and to see the native chapel in the same compound, where
a 'Singhalese pastor ministers to a Chinese congregation in the
morning in three different dialects, to a Tamil congregation in
the afternoon, and to a Malay congregation in the evening. The
Bishop told me that when he himseif preached to a mixed con
gregation in this chapel, in Tamil or Malay, this Singhalese pastor
took notes of his address in English, and then translated from
the English into the different dialects of Chinese forthe benefit
of the Chinese who might be present.
The Rev. Mr. Watson, of Leamington, England, one of the
local secretaries of the Church Missionary Society, and his wife,
were fellow passengers on this steamer and on the ' 'Coromandel, "
travelling round the world for the purpose of visiting the
missions of the society in India, Ceylon, China, Japan and Can
ada. The society has no missions in this diocese, all being
under the care of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel;

PENANG, SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG.

55

but I went with Mr. and Mrs. Watson Sunday afternoon, to see
the Chinese Girls' School, supported by the Female Education
Society of the Church of England, under the charge of Miss
Cook, who has been connected with the school for over thirty
years. Miss Cook is a wonderful old lady, evidently much over
seventy years of age, but still as active and as absorbed in her
work as ever. She said she had taken no furlough for twelve
years, excepting to go once to Hong Kong for two months; her
recreation consisting in hospital visiting and Bible work among
the English police
men, as secretary
of the Christian
Police Association.
She is also deeply
engaged in the
Young Woman's
Christian Associa
tion and the
Woman's Christian
TemperanceUnion,and exhibited with
pardonable pride a
photograph of a
group of the gradu
ates of her school
who are members
of these last two
societies. The school, com
prises forty girls,
all living in the
house; four pupil
teachers who are
also Bible women,
and visit in over one
hundred Chinese

'*Wtf^

CONFUCIAN TEMPLE.

56 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
homes; two women who visit in the jails, and an elderly matron
who accompanies them in their outside work. Miss Cook and
her assistant, Miss Ryan, are the only foreign ladies in charge.
We often read in English books and magazines of " working
parties " for the benefit of foreign missions. These differ from
our own "sewing societies" because they are generally occupied
in making up boxes of useful and fancy articles to be sent out
to different missions to be sold to English residents of the civil or
military station, whichever it may happen to be, for the bene
fit of the mission. The support of this particular school largely
comes from the proceeds of these boxes, sales taking place in
Singapore twice a year, each one often netting 900 or 1,000
Mexican dollars, the currency of the Straits Settlement. The
girls also raise an exceptionally nice brand of arrow-root, which
is carefully prepared and sent in sealed glass bottles to England,
to be sold by friends for the benefit of the school.
It was with the greatest interest that I saw the Chinese for
the first time in What seemed to me their own land, in Penang
and Singapore, but I was warned that they were quite different
from those I should see in China itself, being called "Straits
Chinese," a majority of them speaking Malay instead of their
own language, and being really British subjects, so that it was
not until we left the Indian Ocean far behind, and had turned
our faces due north once more, and were fairly on the China
Sea, that I felt myself at liberty to believe that we were at last,
after four and a half months of travelling on other waters and in
other lands, drawing near the special missions I had come so far
to see. Many friends, particularly in the Woman's Auxiliary, know
ing for how long a time this visit has been anticipated, may
wonder that I could linger so long upon the way, but the four
months have been so full of preparation and instruction that I
can only be truly thankful to have had them.
In Egypt, India, Ceylon and Singapore, I have had the privi
lege of seeing no less than 145 separate churches and chapels,
mission houses and homes of missionaries, schools, orphanages,

PENANG, SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG.

57

zenanas and hospitals, belonging to the Church of England, the
Church of Scotland, American Presbyterians and Methodists, and
the various denominations and societies of Christian workers so
largely represented in these several countries, all composed of
English-speaking people and converts from among the natives
of many tribes and tongues. Surely I cannot but hope that so
much and such varied opportunity will enable me in a measure
to grasp more clearly and more fairly what lies before me in our
own foreign field ; and it is a satisfaction to realize that most of
the problems it can present I have already encountered, and had
some time to consider, unembarrassed by any personal relation
to the question or to the individuals concerned.
It may not be amiss for me to mention one difficulty that
has been felt by English missionaries in India, in the way of es
tablishing a native Church, and that is the lack of aggressive
missionary spirit on the part of the native clergy themselves. I

4>~\

»„l„ «,"'

^^itev,

m,

L/illf-'lW'ill '\ ! 1 " hjA \

Mt4jJA<AA

MANDARINS PRAYING FOR RAIN.

58 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
was told by Mr. Watson that, in more than one place he had
visited, the native pastor excused himself from doing missionary
work on the ground that he was appointed to minister to a set
tled congregation, although that congregation might number
not more than forty or fifty persons; and when remonstrated
with, and asked how he expected the vacancies to be filled,
caused by deaths or removals, the reply would be, O the Eng
lish missionaries will attend to that ! Perhaps this fault may be
traced back to the imperfect training given originally by the
English missionaries to the native pastors, and when the mis
sionary spirit is at a low ebb, even in Christian lands, it is hardly
becoming to begin to throw stones; but at all events one does
naturally look for some evangelistic labor on the part of those
newly come out of heathenism, as a proof of real conversion,
and for more than ordinarily active labor of this kind on the part
of those especially fitted for leadership, so that it is only fair
to make this at least one test.
Singapore and Penang are, like Ceylon, intensely tropical
with fine Botanical Gardens and everywhere the most lux
uriant foliage. There are pretty homes in both places, low
bungalows, surrounded by compounds filled with flowering
vines and shrubs, with a background of hills and a view of the
sea; pleasant to live in, and not so unbearably hot as one would
suppose, though Singapore is almost on the equator. New York
it often hotter in midsummer, and the mercury rises higher in
Minnesota than we have seen it anywhere within the tropics.
At both these last places, however, it reached 900, which was
quite hot enough.
Turning north into the China Sea a change was very soon
perceptible, and off Hong Kong we ran into fogs and chilly
breezes, and the mercury fell thirty degrees, so that heavy cloth
ing and steamer rugs again made their appearance, and the decks
began to look like a return to the bleakness of the Atlantic.
Hong Kong is most picturesquely situated, the dwelling
houses and gardens and churches, and many of the public build
ings, being on terraces rising one above another far up over the

A CHINESE FAMILY.

6o

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

town to the Peak, the crowning eminence of all. They are ap
proached by an almost perpendicular steam tram, and by steep
winding roads, over which coolies carry both residents and
tourists in bamboo chairs, by four long poles, jinrikishas being
only used on the level below.
Many of our passengers were to stop here and take a mail
steamer direct for Yokohama, making a little trip up to Canton
meanwhile, but as I was going on in the "Mirzapore," the few
hours on shore seemed all too short for the many things I wished
to do and see. Part of them I spent in the pleasant home of an
American friend, part in going about the curious and interesting

A LITTLE STUDENT IN CHINA.

PENANG, SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG. 61
town and the beautiful public gardens, and part with Bishop and
Mrs. Burdon, friends of our own Bishop and Mrs. Boone and
Bishop and Mrs. Schereschewsky, of whom they spoke with
warm regard and affection.
Here, beside the cathedral and chapel, I visited St. Paul's
Boys' School, attached to the Bishop's house, where fifty Chinese
boys and young men were pursuing their studies under an Eng
lish teacher and a Chinese assistant, making me feel as though I
were having a glimpse beforehand of St. John's College, Shang
hai. Looking at them I could see at once the difference between
them and the Straits Chinese, and could well appreciate the
"new aspect," so much more attractive, which Bishop Hare
says " Chinese youth here assumed," when speaking of his visit
to St. John's College and the work which centres in and around
it. It was an introduction, and a happy introduction, to what
I had come so far to see. The long preliminary stage of my
journeyings had at last come to an end. Three more days,
through the Straits of Formosa, and I might hope to be with our
own missionaries, on the foreign missionary ground of our own
American Episcopal Church.

XI.
SHANGHAI.

A'

FTER the wonders of Egypt and
India, the loveliness of Ceylon
and the singular picturesquesness of
Hong Kong, tourists find absolutely
nothing attractive about Shanghai.
With the fascinations of Japan luring
them on, the great majority decide to
pass it by, and take direct passage
from Hong Kong to Kobe or Yoko
hama. But in a missionary journey
Shanghai possesses one great advan
tage over all these other places — there
is nothing whatever to divert attention from the missionary
work. Criticisms possibly applicable to foreign missions and
foreign missionaries in other lands fail in China. Here is no
charm of climate, or scenery, or architecture, or people, to serve
as motive or compensation. It has but the one attraction of
being an immense mission field, with the prospect of remaining
so for perhaps generations to come.
My own impressions of Shanghai were favorable because the
weather was fine and the country was looking its best in the
early and always lovely spring time. The soft light green of
the willow trees, the blossoms on the peach and pear trees and
the magnolia, the low waving fields of winter wheat, the home
like cheerfulness of the golden dandelion, recall our own April
days, and no sunshine anywhere could be more radiant than that
which made our Easter bright. Nevertheless, for the very rea
son that I saw it at its best, a vivid imagination helps me to
sympathize with those who, in the bitter biting cold of winter,

SHANGHAI. 63
or the blazing heat of summer, or the depressing rains of all
seasons, see it at its worst.
It so happens that I have come to China in its Jubilee Year,
when foreigners are remembering that its ports were opened to
them just fifty years ago. I try hard to realize the changes those
fifty years have wrought in the one city of Shanghai and its
immediate surroundings, and it is a daily interest to picture the
beginnings of our own American Episcopal Missions, and link,
so far as is possible, the present with the past.
Old New Yorkers will appreciate what that means, if they
look back over a half, or even over only a quarter, of a century —
for growth and alterations are the same in all cities, and Shanghai
is no exception to the general rule. All the mission houses in
Hong Kew that surrounded the Church of our Saviour, in the
days of the first Bishop Boone, have entirely disappeared, the
church itself, in which the Rev. Mr. Yen ministers, being the
only one of the original buildings which is still standing, in a
region which was then a country suburb and is now only to be
compared to East Side slums. The little rectory is next to the
church, and near by is St. Luke's Hospital, whose doors have
never once been closed since they were first opened, thirteen
years ago, and whose good physician, Dr. Boone, is known and
loved and honored far and wide. Adjoining it is his home, and
the medical school under his charge, and the Hospital for Women
and Children. This is all work exclusively for and among
the Chinese, and could not be better placed, or more effectually
meet the demand for actual and difficult and self-denying mis
sionary labor on the part of those who "do not believe in foreign
missions." If skeptics could but spend a day in the two dispensa
ries, and then take a trip, by jinrikisha and wheelbarrow, to the
out-station at the Church of the Redeemer, Jung-Ziang-Kong, five
miles away, where another dispensary has been opened among the
poorest of the country poor, they might have less to say about the
easy and pleasant and comfortable lives of foreign missionaries.
It is just because the Hong Kew district has now become a
region where a constant and vigorous hand-to-hand fight must

64

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

be maintained with disease and infection and accident and death,
that one appreciates the wisdom of Bishop Schereschewsky in
removing the entire school work from this neighborhood, and
his admirable choice of the fine property upon which St. John's
College for Boys, St. Mary's School for Girls, and the Orphanage,
are at present so delightfully situated. If there is any attractive
place about Shanghai it is this, and we may surely feel some
pride in the possession of such a well-appointed and thoroughly
organized mission compound, of which the beautiful chapel is the

CHILDREN'S WARD, ST. LUKE'S HOSPITAL.

SHANGHAI. 65.
rightful heart and centre. We feel quite certain that Mr. Pott
will come back with the full amount needed for the new college
buildings, so that it does not seem necessary in this letter tO'
make an additional appeal in that direction. My own desire is
rather for a few more scholarships in the girls' school and the
support of a few more cots in the orphanage, so that a full
hundred girls of all ages, as well as the full hundred boys, may
have the benefit of this sweet and happy home.
Beside this, it would seem of the greatest importance that a
new worker should come out to assist Miss Dodson in the
school, and to study the language, so as to be able to supply her
place when she goes home for her holiday, two years hence.
The little girls of from six to ten years old, who were the first
babies in the orphanage, now form what may be considered the
primary department of the school, and as this department will
increase from year to year, it will soon require the entire over
sight of such an assistant.
It also seems very necessary that a nurse should be provided to
have charge of the infirmary, now happily empty, but too often
occupied during the past winter, and to supervise the health of
the babies, and relieve Mrs. Pott on her return of some of the
responsibility of this part of the work, in which she has been*
and always will be, so deeply interested.
Indeed, it is for an increase of workers that I would plead,
arid for steady growth in the work, a plea that has often and
often been made before by all who have the future welfare of
the mission at heart. It is too prosperous and too promising to
stand still, and when all that is most needed is a sufficient supply
of suitable recruits from home, and a very little more money,
it is hard that both should not be speedily forthcoming to re
lieve the anxiety of those upon whom too much already
depends. The little more money should include a comparatively small!
sum, twelve or fifteen hundred dollars, for the building of one
more house, a residence for Miss Dodson and her assistant, with
a covered way connecting it with the school, so that a better

GIRLS OF ST. MARY S, EASTER MORNING.

SHANGHAI. - 67
and more constant oversight may be maintained over the girls,
and the ladies be spared exposure in stormy weather.
These few wants are within the easy reach of individual
branches, and even members of the Woman's Auxiliary, and
pertaining, as they do to definite woman's work, not only for
the present but for the future, may we not hope that they will
speedily be supplied, and gladly, by some generous friends at
home for these their far-away sisters ?
And now I must add a few suggestions for the children, the
Junior Auxiliary so rapidly spreading through our parishes and
Sunday-schools. These little Chinese children seem somehow
to have been greatly overlooked in the- matter of Christmas
boxes, and yet they would be most welcome here, just as much
as elsewhere. They should contain dolls, any number of them,
large and small pieces of calico, gingham or woollen goods for
patchwork, worsted in large quantities and of bright colors,
for knitting and crochet, work-bags, with a supply of needles,
pins, and thimbles of small size, and also knitted or crocheted
wristers, mittens, mitts to cover the hand but not the fingers,
and scarfs or comforters about one yard long to tie once around
the neck. These last should all be of bright colors, particularly
red, of which the Chinese are most fond. Boxes should be sent
early in August, and everything should be carefully packed and
protected from any possible dampness, needles and pins being
put into glass bottles and woollen things into tin. Mould and
rust are very destructive in the journey to this country, and often
it is quite sad to see the condition in which articles arrive that
were perfectly new and fresh when they started on their way.
Boxes sent by freight cost only about $2.50 for one hundred
pounds weight, and they should be addressed to St. John's Col
lege, Shanghai, "For the Orphanage," or "For St. Mary's
School." Perhaps this letter will be read in the early summer, when
most of the regular parish missionary work is suspended for the
season-, and in the two or three vacation months, in the country
or at the seaside, there may be many friends of missions, old

ST. MARY'S ORPHANAGE.

SHANGHAI. 69
and young, who will like to undertake some of the work it pro
poses, and who will enjoy their holiday none the less for thus
remembering the children of the Church in far distant China. I
commend it also to the Connecticut Comfort Club, and to ladies
in charge of Mothers' Meetings, who would like to interest the
mothers in missionary work that is not too difficult and that calls
for only a small outlay of money.
In the library of St. John's College a fine collection of new
books was pointed out to me with delight, just received from
Mrs. Lindsay Fairfax, of New York, the first addition of the
kind within the memory of the present missionaries. It is so
easy to send by mail in these days that many a volume enjoyed
at home might be made to give pleasure to others abroad, with
only the trouble of putting up and directing, and the cost of
postage. Our missionaries find a fresh story or poem or bi
ography or magazine refreshing and helpful, just as we do our
selves, and whatever any one can contribute in this direction
will be always welcomed.
This may be called a begging letter; but what else can be
expected from one who comes to see our own mission field ?
It would not be worth while to come unless one could see and
suggest ways of helping the work and cheering the workers.
These are such small and inexpensive wants; who will be the
first to supply them ?
And although it is a begging letter, it does not beg for a
people unwilling to respond or ungrateful for blessings already
received. On a beautiful day after my visit "Up River" to
Hankow and Wuchang, the China Branch of the Woman's
Auxiliary was organized, in St. John's Collegiate Chapel.
I think I may safely say that I never had a happier hour than
the afternoon of May 4th, when Mr. Graves walked into the
chapel just as I was explaining to a large congregation of
Christian women and girls that almost filled it about the
Woman's Auxiliary, Archdeacon Thomson interpreting. The
sun was shining in at the open doors and windows, the birds
were singing delightfully, the chapel was fresh and lovely, all

70 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
the women and girls were in their best, and looking so inter
ested and intelligent, and it seemed a charming welcome to their
new Bishop-elect, and a promise of future help in his work from
his own people, that could not but have been most cheering and
encouraging. He spoke beautifully to them afterwards, and so
did Archdeacon Thomson, and the service was so hearty, and
the singing so good. Indeed, in every way it was as fine a
meeting as I ever went to in the Auxiliary. Archdeacon Thom
son had translated the constitution that Miss Dodson and I had
drawn up into Chinese, and after I had made my address, giving
the greetings from all their sisters in America and thanks for
their help in the last United Offering, he read it over to them,
enlarging a little on points he thought might not be clear. Then
I asked all who liked the idea of being a branch of the Auxiliary
to please rise, and though he interpreted, he shook his head at
me, and whispered that Chinese women would never do that,
they would be afraid; but they all stood up, every one, and
looked as pleased as possible. It was all very nice, but I cannot
half begin to describe it. After the meeting there was a great
shaking of hands and exchange of compliments and congratula
tions, and then tea in the school-room, and then a photograph
was taken of the group out on the lawn by the chapel. The
following is a copy of The Constitution:
I. Name. This Association shall be called the China Branch
of the Woman's Auxiliary to the Board of Missions.
II. Object. The object of this Association shall be to aid the
missionary work of the Church by sympathy, prayer and
offerings. III. [Membership. All Christian women connected with the
Mission of the American Episcopal Church, and girls who are
communicants of the Church, shall be considered members Of the
Association. IV. Local 'Branches. All women's societies in the sev
eral stations of the mission, such as the Tsing sing we (Pure
in Heart), shall be considered local branches of the Asso
ciation.

SHANGHAI. 71
V. Officers. There shall be a Diocesan Secretary, appointed
by the Bishop, and such other officers as he may think necessary.
VI. Secretary' s Duty. The duty of the Secretary shall be to
aid and encourage the formation of local branches, to organize
branches of the Junior Auxiliary among the children, to arrange
for at least one meeting annually, to present an annual report to
the Bishop, a copy of which shall be sent to the General Officers
of the Auxiliary in America, and to secure from all the local
branches a contribution for the Triennial United Offering of the
Auxiliary. VII. Alterations in the Constitution. No alterations shall be
made in this Constitution excepting with the Bishop's consent.

Note. — Visitors to the Church Mission House will see in the Woman's Auxiliary-
Room two scrolls of scarlet silk with Chinese characters embroidered in gold upon-
them, which, translated, read as follows: " May Giace and Light shine upon and
enlighten all men. Respectfully presented by the pupils of St. Mary's Hall, Shang
hai." " May the Holy Doctrine constantly be transmitted to all the earth. To the
great American Woman's Auxiliary Allegiance." They will also be shown, among
the other many interesting and beautiful receptacles in which the United Offerings
of the different branches of the Woman's Auxiliary have been made, the one which)
contained the offering of the China Bianch at the triennial meeting in Washington,
October, 1898 — the gift of the Chinese Empress to the women of our Mission, in re
turn for their contribution to the costly Bible lately presented to her by the Christian
women of China.

XII.
HANKOW AND WUCHANG.

A'

T the triennial meet
ing of the Woman's
Auxiliary, held in Balti
more in October, 1892,
a pledge of $1,000 was
made forthe outfit, trav
elling expenses, and first
year's salary of a trained
nurse, to take charge of
the Elizabeth B u n n
Memorial Hospital for
Women and Children at
Wuchang; and I was glad to meet Miss Florence McRae, the
lady appointed to that position, in Shanghai, and make the rest
jof the journey with her to her new field of labor.
The four days' trip up the Yang-tse was as comfortable as
possible, and was made more pleasant for us by having Mrs.
Smalley's company. The weather was delightful and the scen
ery varied, some of the mountains we passed being 5,000 feet
high, while small farms, peach trees in full blossom, fishing
villages, an occasional pagoda, joss house and Buddhist monas
tery, with two or three walled cities, and the frequent turns
of the river, made me think that it would not do to pronounce
the whole of China uninteresting, even to the tourist.
Our steamer was a little delayed, so that we did not arrive
until early on Sunday morning, but we were up with the sun,
and were rejoiced to see it rise so brightly and with such perfect
promise of a beautiful day, and we admired the charmingly
shaded bund as we drew up slowly by it to the pier at Hankow.

HANKOW AND WUCHANG.

13

Mr. Graves, the news of whose election met me at Shang
hai, welcomed us, with Mrs. Graves, to their present home, to
which they have now just removed from Wuchang, and im
mediately proposed that we should take advantage of the sunny
sky and smooth water to spend the day on the opposite shore,
as the following Sunday perhaps might not prove to be so pleas
ant. Directly after breakfast, therefore, we all crossed the river
in a row-boat together and took closed sedan chairs through the
native city to the Mission Compound. Here the description
given by a recent traveller to St. John's College equally well ap
plies — " an oasis of cleanliness in a desert of filth," for the con
trast is immense between the delicate and dainty charm of well

74 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
ordered Church and home life, as we understand it, and the
surrounding mass of pagan repulsiveness. Certainly nothing
could be more marked than the difference between the Chinese
as we saw them up to the very gate of the compound, and the
rows of neat and clean and happy looking boys and girls, and
respectable men and women, who filled the church on either
side of the dividing screen, and took such hearty share in the
services of the day. The surroundings cannot but have influ
ence, and the impression made by dignified and well-kept build
ings, a fair and attractive garden, and by general thoroughness
extending to all the details of daily duty and occupation, must
have as lasting effect as lessons from a book in the class room,
or as oral teaching and preaching in the school or in the street
chapel. This is only possible in certain places and under certain
circumstances as yet, but we can have the satisfaction of know
ing that our two educational centres in China are truly educa
tional in every sense of the word, and are eminently fitted to
train a new generation in new ideas which must continue to
bear fruit in the future, just as we now see the fruit of past effort
in the present generation of native clergy and teachers and com
municants. At both Hankow and Wuchang, as at Shanghai, it is most
interesting to note the changes in our mission property. Noth
ing remains in the way of buildings, that was to be seen so
short a time as a dozen years ago, but the little chapel in the
native city of Hankow and the Jane Bohlen School for Girls in
Wuchang. This last building is in poor repair and an almost
tumble-down condition, and contrasts unfavorably with the new
church and clergy house and hospital and Bishop Boone Mem
orial School for Boys. It must before long be replaced by some
thing more substantial, but the first necessity is for a resident
teacher, as Mrs. Graves's removal leaves its oversight to Mrs.
Sowerby, whose large family of little children will make it next
to impossible for her to spare much time for this, as well as
other duties connected with other departments of woman's
work in the mission. Two or three rooms are being made

HANKOW AND WUCHANG.

A

habitable for Miss McRae, and there are more that will be in read
iness for the new head of the school when she comes, so that
the two ladies will have companionship in their home and in
their study of the language, to which the first year or two of
residence in the field must be almost entirely devoted. In no
way can the Woman's Auxiliary better help this part of the
China mission than by securing an efficient worker for this
special place and by raising the amount that will be needed to
send her out as soon as possible.
The next want, to be supplied by some generous giver, is
for a new hospital for men, to be erected on the edge of the
Mission Compound. At present there is no place whatever be
longing to them but two or three poor rooms connected with
Dr. Merrins's dispensary in the native city, and the consequence
is that the Elizabeth Bunn Hospital, in the absence of any nurse
or lady physician to keep it open for the purpose for which it
was originally built, has been used in this way and is now en
tirely filled with men and boys. With Miss McRae's arrival, it
must soon be given up into her charge, for the occupation of the
women and children for whom it was intended, but this will
leave Dr. Merrins crippled in his department unless the new hos
pital, so greatly needed, can be speedily erected. Four or five
thousand dollars could hardly be better
expended anywhere, and even a less
sum would make it possibe to begin
the work on the pavilion plan.
In Hankow, the spacious and
substantial Church and St. Bartholo
mew's Home, with its rooms for the
instruction of inquirers and believers,
both men and women, and its oppor
tunity for dispensary and hospital
work, all offer a field for a much
larger force of workers, as soon as
there are funds to sustain them or
volunteers to give themselves to China. a Chinese woman's foot.

76

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

In the native city at Wuchang the buildings connected with
the chapel, and used for day school and clergy house, are so old
and decayed as to be in perpetual danger of falling to the ground,
and ought to be replaced by others at the cost of about $400;
and here, as in the native city at Hankow, there is limitless room
for the establishment of similar centres that can be well occu
pied by native clergy, teachers and Bible women, as rapidly as
they can be trained and properly superintended by foreign mis
sionaries. How then to obtain a sufficient number of foreign
missionaries to do all the necessary educational and training
work preliminary to dealing with the overwhelming multitude
of heathen through their own people? A sympathetic visitor
sees that, first of all, a larger force is required even so much as
to hold the missionary ground we already have in China, while

ST. PETER'S HOSPITAL, WUCHANG. (BUILT IN 1894.)

HANKOW AND WUCHANG. 77
to grow, in any small proportion to our present opportunities,
the number of laborers in the field should at least be doubled
So many vain and fruitless appeals have been made, by the
late Bishop Boone, by Bishop Hare after his visit a year ago, by
all the missionaries in the field, publicly and privately, that this
is but the adding of one word more to a multitude of voices
whose tones must be already echoing in many hearts at home.
Still it is one word more, and to make it practical it may be ac
companied by a new suggestion.
Never within the history of our Church has there been such
a generous rivalry in good works at home as now. Never has
the organization of what is popularly known as Church work
been so thorough and so widespread. Never have there been
so many voluntary societies added to those that bear the authority
of the Church at large as represented in the legislation of the
General Convention. We are accustomed to look to the Board
of Missions and its agents the parish clergy, and to the Woman's
Auxiliary, to present the claims of the mission field, both foreign
and domestic; but has not the time arrived when volunteer so
cieties, like the St. Andrew's Brotherhood, the Girls' Friendly
Society, the Daughters of the King, can each send and support
one from among their own number as a regularly appointed
missionary of the Board ?
A new Bishop will soon be consecrated for China and an
other for Japan, while weare rejoicing over the missionary spirit
that marked the last General Convention, shown especially in
the setting apart of new missionary jurisdictions in- the home
field and the election of new missionary bishops for service
there. Is not this a propitious time in which to urge the gath
ering of a great number of new missionary recruits, each one of
whom shall have behind him a strong centre of support and
sympathy and devoted interest ?
The Church Students' Missionary Association should prop
erly lead the way, and the alumni of our many Church schools
and colleges might well follow and soon outrun their leader.
Before now small and poor and weak communities of Christians

78

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

have often been known to make liberal offerings from among them
selves and of their limited means, that have put to shame the larger
but unused possibilities of seemingly more favored stewards.
Because this is a
special plea for China,
it does not overlook
the fact that there are
other lands and other
needs, but here is a
place in which to
begin — the most dis
tant, the most diffi
cult, the most crowd
ed, the most absolute
ly missionary of them
all. May this thought
appeal to a host of
Church workers of
any and every name,
and give them no
rest till each feeblest
band has its represen
tative and its substi
tute in some mission
ary field.
PAGODA AT WUHU.

Note. — Since these letters were written, the new buildings ot St. John's Col
lege, the house for Miss Dodson and other foreign unmarried women workers, and the
Training School for Bible women, have been erected in Shanghai ; while in
Wuchang St. Peter's Hospital has been built, in memory of Mr. A. A. Low ; the
money has been given for the new buildings of the girls' school, now to be called
St. Hilda's, and many gifts of various kinds have gone out to brighten the orphan
age and carry Christmas joy to the little ones. New workers have also gone out to
different parts of the field, but many, many more are still needed.

XIII.
BY SEDAN CHAIR, WHEELBARROW AND HOUSE-BOAT.
A RRIVING in China so short a time
after the destruction of our
mission property at Ichang during the
late riots, and in the midst of the
excitement regarding the Chinese Ex
clusion Act, many friends at home
and travelling- companions along the
way expressed considerable doubt
and anxiety as to the probable comfort
and security of this part of the jour
ney. "Have you ever been in a
Chinese native city?" I was asked
several times, and always with the response to my answer in
the negative. "Well, you will never want to go more than
once." During the six weeks of my stay, I was eighteen times
in native cities, towns and villages, visiting some of them two
or three different times, under various circumstances and by sev
eral unfamiliar conveyances — sampans, wheelbarrows, sedan
chairs and house-boats; but nowhere did I suffer any incon
venience, or meet with rudeness, beyond the natural curiosity
with which I felt much sympathy, as I was quite as curious
myself about this strange people as they could be about me.
It is true that on more than one occasion there may have been
some danger, as after a visit to a Buddhist temple on Golden
Island near Chin-kiang, in company with three other ladies and
a gentleman, where we stayed a long time and were treated
with great politeness, we were told that we ran great risk in
going there, as last year a party visiting the same temple were
locked in and kept until a large sum of money was promised

8o

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

for their release. Knowing nothing of this beforehand, we felt
no fear and we certainly had no trouble.
In visiting the town of Fong-ta, Miss Dodson and I were the
first foreign ladies who had ever been seen by the large and
eager crowds we attracted; but even in the little while when I
happened to be alone with a number of far from attractive look
ing men, women and children, whose language I could not
understand, and who could not understand me, they were evi
dently so good-natured and friendly that it all seemed only a
novel and amusing experience.
Everywhere 1 had the company of one or more of our mis
sionaries, and with them I had no anxiety, and found only fresh
interest in each new expedition. Usually I was forced to ride
in some way, because of distances and dirt, but we did walk about
occasionally, and much more than I had any expectation of doing.
The streets of a native Chinese city are so narrow and so
crowded that it can be seen more comfortably and to better ad-

IN A SEDAN CHAIR, SHANGHAI.

SEDAN CHAIR, WHEELBARROW AND HOUSE-BOAT. 8i,
vantage, by a stranger, from a sedan chair than on foot. One
does not feel very secure in such a fragile conveyance, carried
by poles on the shoulders of coolies, jolted and jostled, and sur
rounded by a noisy and confused medley of sights and sounds,
not to speak of unpleasant smells; but a little patience, and a
determination to overlook what is disagreeable, brings to light
so many odd and diverting objects, and so much of the life and
occupation, the trades and small crafts of the people, with so*
many evidences of their industry, economy and ingenuity, as to
more than repay one for far greater difficulties and discomforts
than any that I experienced.
With the Rev. Mr. Massie, the Rev. Mr. Chuand Miss Dodson,
I made one trip of three days and nights, in two house-boats,
from St. John's College, Shanghai, to Nae-ziang, Kia-ding and
Fong-ta. We have day schools in each of these places, under
the care of the native clergy, and street preaching in mission
rooms open to the street, while at Kia-ding a simple little chapel
is neatly fitted up, and a dispensary is also maintained there by
one of the graduates of Dr. Boone's medical school. The girls'
day school at this point is taught by a graduate of St. Mary's
School, and the pupils of the school pay her salary, and are pre
paring to support a similar school shortly in the newer station of
Fong-ta. These are only samples of the many out-stations of the mis
sion, for years under the special oversight of our veteran
missionary, the Rev. Mr. Thomson, whose itinerating labors are
to be shared by the Rev. Mr. Massie, when Mr. Pott's return
relieves them both from some of their present cares and duties
in St. John's College. It is work among the heathen in its sim
plest and most primitive form, and is of the first importance,
however needful it is to follow and accompany it by educational
and medical institutions for more careful and thorough training
and ministry later. No one who has ever had the pleasure and
privilege of such a trip can forget the earnest manner and fluent
words of our native clergy, or the impressive scene as they
speak to the street crowd of pagan people of the one true God

DAY SCHOOL AT KIA-DING.

SEDAN CHAIR, WHEELBARROW AND HOUSE-BOAT. 83
and of the revelation of Himself to poor and weak and sinful
men through His Son Jesus Christ our Lord. The foreign mis
sionary may and must have something also to say of peace and
good-will, but the main teaching here can always best be done
by those who have themselves been led out of the same dark
ness into light, and who, knowing the nature and mind of these
their brethren know best how to appeal to them and eventually,
we hope and pray, to win them to a like faith and newness of
life. Seeing this country and this people as I have done in these six
weeks, all about the neighborhood of Shanghai and six hundred
miles up the Yang-tse, I am only the more convinced that here
lies the greatest, because most distant and difficult, missionary
work that is offered to-day to the Christian Church. But I truly
believe that no missionary work is better worth doing, or will
in the end receive a more abundant reward.
Everywhere within the treaty ports the disgrace and shame of
the opium trade is pressed home upon the Christian traveller,
with all the consequent responsibility which it brings. For this
England has been, and is continually, charged with blame by
sister nations, and Americans have not been slow to join in the
outcry of reproach. But what are we to say now when both the
English and the Chinese turn upon us and ask what has become
of the honor and justice of our own land, and what respect and
attention can we suppose will be given to our missionaries when
the country they represent forgets the traditions of the past and
proves false to all its most solemn pledges ?
The Rev. Mr. Yen, in The Forum of September, 1892, has
spoken out the mind of the Chinese and American Churchman
alike upon this matter, and our House of Bishops at home not only
have nobly put themselves on record, but have taken all the action
in their power to lead the nation to pause before carrying into
effect a most unrighteous and un-Christian law. Out here, and
at the time I write, we are hoping and believing that we shall all
be saved from such a future of unhappy complications as the
full execution of the Chinese Exclusion Act must inevitably

84

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

introduce, but the very passage of the act, with all the just criti
cism it has provoked, should surely lead us to be more earnest
than ever in our labors of love for this ill-treated people, while
we have the time.
In an English record of the missionary work of the past cen
tury in many countries of the world, I found some striking
sentences relating to this land, so far away, and to many so
unattractive. They express better than any words of mine
could do the thoughts that must fill the heart of every missionary
who is laboring here, or who has ever loved the Chinese people
and longed to help them. They appeal indeed, to what is noblest
and best in every heart, and therefore I quote them, believing
taht many a reader will feel a thrill of delight and anticipation in
the very thought of the "achievement of the impossible."
Even while the words are being read a new opportunity will
be offered at home to all who are willing to share in the happi
ness of speeding on the work. The Bishop-elect will himself
be there to plead for his own field. May he find a host of gen-

ON THE RIVER AT SHANGHAI.

SEDAN CHAIR, WHEELBARROW AND HOUSE-BOAT. 85
erous helpers, who will remain his faithful friends for all the many
years that we may hope are to follow his consecration and return.
"The missionary enterprise in China is perhaps the most
arduous which has yet taxed the energy and consecration of the
Church of Christ. Her ancient civilization dates back to the
days of Abraham ; and the tradition of its glories inspires her
children with a pride of superiority to all mankind. The morals
of Confucius, the metaphysics of Laotse, seem to them to ex
haust all practical wisdom and all speculative inquiry. Few
lands have seen more revolutions; there were sixteen changes of
dynasty in the first sixteen centuries of our era; but yet no revo
lution has ever changed either the constitution or the laws
or the customs of the people. They have seen the rise and decay
of most of the great empires of antiquity.
"They were a cultured and polite people when the whole
of Northern Europe was still barbarian. They to-day are cere
monious and polite in a degree which makes all Englishmen
appear to them rude and uncultivated. The industry, energy
and skill of the people are surprising; in trade, commerce and
diplomacy they can hold their own against the world. They
know their strength and are complacent in it. They hate us;
they misconceive the doctrines, rites and meaning of Christianity.
The absence of all doctrine and practice expressive of reverence
for the dead seems to denote on the part of Christians a disgrace
ful lack of filial sentiment.
" We have injured them as no nation probably ever injured
another, by the opium traffic, which has demoralized a large
proportion of this vast empire with a vice as bad as that of
drunkenness. "All these things constitute colossal difficulties. And
amongst all things impossible the conversion of the Chinese
would seem to be that which is supremely so.
"But it is the function of the Church to achieve the im
possible — to cleanse the lepers, to cast out devils, to raise the
dead. And the history of the Church is the story of a sublime
succession of impossible achievements.

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

"Impossible as it appears, some things aid the achievement.
There is an aching void, a great absence of light and hope,
making the heart of man hungry. There is the yearning after
God which is never fully suppressed in any heart. There is the
glory as of 'the Only Begotten of the Father,' still radiant in the
Saviour's life. There is the charm of His vast affection and His
voluntary woe. There is the light on the heart of God, the offer
of liberty and peace; the attraction of the great pardon; the
glory of heaven. Hell they know of, believe in, and depict in
temples of every city, by paintings or sculpture of realistic
horror. But the thought of any heaven has hardly come to them.

In such a position of things there
where be some good soil for the
kingdom. . .
ning comes to us in our faint-heart-
fruits of a great harvest, which, if
we shall reap. Shall we be found
shall we humbly, gratefully, hope-
into all the world to preach the
Gospel to every creature ? Let no
man take our
crown! But
when God has
entrusted us
with that Gospel
which is the
power of God
unto salvation,
let us give itin all
its saving fulness
to those who
need its light."

must some-
good seed of the
"The begin-
edness, a first-
we have faith,
wanting ? Or
fully, go forth

CHINESE HOUSE-BOAT.

XIV.
OSAKA, KYOTO AND NARA.
\A/E anchored in the early morning of the eighth day of May
in the lovely land-locked harbor of Nagasaki, reaching
Japan with the roses, and not too late to see the last of the long
lilac-colored sprays of wisteria with which the trellissed arbors
of the tea houses were hung, and the white and red and pink
and purple and yellow azaleas on the hillsides and in the gardens.
During the few hours that the steamer was in port, a large
party of us took a jinrikisha ride to the charming little fishing
village of Mogi, an excursion to be commended to every trav
eller who wishes to see the most characteristic beauties of the
landscape of Japan. The winding road up and down and over
the succession of hills and vales opened before us a constantly
changing panorama of delightful scenery, reminding us of sim
ilar views in Switzerland and the Tyrol, and often of our own
home summer resorts in Campobello and Mount Desert.
At Kobe I parted regretfully with the Rev. Mr. Graves, on
his way home for consecration, and there I was met by the Rev.
Mr. Page, under whose guidance I was to see the mission work
of our Church in this land, and by Miss Lovell, whose guest I
was to be while in Osaka.
This arrangement was especially satisfactory to me, for as
at the last triennial meeting of the Woman's Auxiliary in Balti
more the thousand dollars had been given to send out Miss Mc-
Rae, who was my fellow traveller up the Yang-tse to Wuchang,
so at the preceding triennial meeting in New York a like sum
had been given for Miss Lovell's outfit, travelling expenses and
first year's salary as a missionary worker in Japan. The mem
bers of the Auxiliary like to feel that all women workers in the
missionary field are their sisters and their substitutes, supported
by their gifts and sustained by their sympathy, but Miss Lovell

88 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
and Miss McRae are associated with the earliest endeavor to
make the United Offering of our triennial gathering in some de
gree a fitting sign of our united work, and it has therefore been
a peculiar pleasure to be with them on the very ground of those
far distant foreign lands to which they were appointed and in
which they are to serve.
"No. 27 Concession " is also a familiar address to many of
us because this was the home of Miss Mailes and her Bible-
women, three of whom 1 have already seen engaged in their
daily duties in Osaka and Kyoto. Here, too, Miss Palmer lives,
engaged with Miss Bull— whose home is in a little Japanese
house in the city — in teaching English in the Ladies' Institute, a

MISS MAILES AND CHRISTIAN WOMEN OF OSAKA.

OSAKA, KYOTO AND NARA. 89
venture in which they both take the deepest interest, and for
which it gives me pleasure to ask the generous sympathy and
aid of friends across the sea.
Educational work of all foreign missionary societies is iri
such a transition state in this country at present that all steps
have to be taken with more than ordinary thought of future
possibilities. Government schools have increased in number and
strength, and English and music are no longer attractions, as
formerly in mission schools, while the reaction against Christian
ity and against foreigners makes each forward movement a
difficult and a perplexing one. At the same time the Church
idea being simple and unchanging, with its sphere of labor so
long as the world shall last among the poor, the sick, the afflicted
and the friendless, there is no fear that the day will ever dawn
when here, as in other lands, Churchmen and Churchwomen
will not find some work to do for Christ. It is true that for us
it may be rather to help and to teach the Japanese how best to
do this work themselves, with our assistance now, and without
us by and by ; but that is as good service as any one need ask to
be called upon to render, and it would be indeed a low, an
ignoble spirit which should grudge the service because there
seems in it small chance of future glory among men. There
will be a reward, but since it is likely to be only of the kind that
a sincerely magnanimous heart can appreciate, it would be well
that no self-seeking worker should henceforth ask to be ap
pointed to Japan. For such there will be nothing in store but
failure and disappointment and disgust; but there is still room
for many more courageous souls who can bear to be misunder
stood and misrepresented, and to see their best hopes fade away
and their brightest plans overturned, and in all and through all,
believe that the hand of God is over-ruling all, and trust Him to
use them in doing His work as He will.
Because it is a transition time, many changes are taking
place now and more may take place by and by, in our own
mission. St. Agnes's School, Osaka, in which Miss Lovell is now
the only foreign teacher, is shortly to be transferred to the new

90

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

MISS BULL AND FIRST GRADUATES OF LADIES INSTITUTE.

OSAKA, KYOTO AND NARA. 91
site secured by the Rev. Mr. Gring in Kyoto, a fine piece of
property, which it is hoped may be still further improved and
increased in value by an additional purchase. Here there is a
good prospect of building up a compact and satisfactory Mission
Compound, with the Church, the gift of Holy Trinity, Philadel
phia, parish house, St. Agnes's School, and residence for two
foreign lady teachers. Mr. Gring's plans are carefully laid, and
he has the approval of the Standing Committee, and the encour
agement of such American visitors as Dr. Hyde, of New York,
and Mrs. Baldwin, of Detroit, who will be able to speak of the
effort and enterprise, with a personal interest and understanding,
on their return to America. Japan is full of tourists, but it is
such as these that cheer the missionary and hold up his hands.
How strange it is that there are so few — that the heathen temples
prove so attractive, and the aesthetic charm so great, as to draw
away even Christian men and women too often from an ordinary
sympathy with their brethren and their sisters here, and leave
them by their coming with a heavier load to carry than they had
before !
In Nara also, as in Osaka and Kyoto, there are changes
many and manifest in the educational work. Here the Rev. Mr.
Dooman, facing single-handed an extensive evangelistic field,
and twenty out-stations, extending through two provinces, sees
the need of help in the school he has been at such pains to estab
lish, and which suffers for the want of the daily care and over
sight of a foreign Christian gentleman. This school was
indebted to Miss Carter for aid secured in its erection at the time
of her visit, five years ago, and to Bishop Hare for rescuing it
from disaster and placing it on a better basis in the two visits that
he. paid to Nara last year and the year before. It occupies a
most beautiful site, and sends well-prepared pupils to St. Paul's
School, Tokyo, for which it serves as an admirable feeder, and
the Japanese trustees take a warm personal interest in its welfare.
Mr. and Mrs. Dooman took great pains to have me meet the
Christian people in and about Nara; and indeed, I cannot speak
too gratefully of the kindness of our missionaries everywhere

92

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

in making it easy for me to see all the details of the work, and
for taking time and trouble to go about with me and to explain
to me 'thoroughly all I wished to know.
The three weeks spent in this region have been crowded
full, with services at the different little churches and chapels,
meetings of the women at the several centres and at some of the
out-stations, inspection of schools and church property, a good
deal of sight seeing that I might not overlook the fact that
heathenism is still strong in Japan, and visits to many other
missions than our own, both English and American, and to cer-

PLAYGROUND OF ST. JOHN'S ORPHANAGE.

OSAKA, KYOTO AND NARA. 93
tain of the government public schools, a most useful part of the
whole round of interest and occupation.
There is too little time to write in detail of what takes all
the time there is to see, but I must add a closing word to this
letter in reference to the benevolent and charitable work under
the care of our mission.
St. Barnabas's Hospital, to which Dr. Laning has given
twenty years of devoted labor, is a pleasant place to visit, so
admirably situated and so truly a Christian institution. The
names of the Williams, the Kimber, the Emery and the Jay
wards recall the time when the building was first erected, and
keep in memory those who were helpers in the undertaking.
The orphanage in Osaka, which so many friends at home
have united with Miss Bull and with so many of the Japanese
themselves to establish, is a beginning on the same lines as the
orphanage we have learned to love, which we shall soon learn
to think of as the Baby Branch of St. Mary's School, Shanghai.
The day schools are efforts in the right direction among the
very poorest of the poor, and may well be increased in number,
and as fast as possible in the efficiency of the industrial depart
ment. Hospitals, orphanages, day schools among the very poor,
industrial schools, and the training of the Japanese to conduct and
support such institutions, on a simple and small scale, will afford
abundant field for work for a long time to come, whatever may
happen to the larger enterprises. But it is because this can be
clearly seen by any one who gives a little thought to the subject
that the plea holds good for a generous support of our more
important Church schools in Japan for the utmost length of time
in which we are able to maintain them. From them we must
draw our Church workers of the future, both men and women ;
our native clergy and catechists, teachers, Bible-women and
helpers of all kinds, and therefore the best instruction that can pos
sibly be given should be offered now, and speedily and liberally.
The Bishop-elect of Japan, whose presence at home and
whose consecration there will plead for his field far more elo-

Q4

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

quently than any words of mine could ever do, will point out to
all, who are ready to hear and to heed, the way in which they
can aid him best. I only desire to add my testimony to the lives
and letters of present and former workers here, and to turn to
account the very argument sometimes used against Japan as a
foreign missionary field — if there is but little time remaining for us
in which to have a share in the evangelization of this land, do not
let us lose that time, but let us make the very most of it that we
possibly can, in every single direction that may be in our power.

MISS BULL AND BOARD OF MANAGERS OF ST. JOHN'S ORPHANAGE.

XV.
TOKYO.
DEFORE leaving Osaka, Dr. Laning took me one afternoon,
u a very interesting walk, to see all the points connected with
the earliest history of the Mission. There was the Japanese
house in which, when he arrived twenty years ago. Bishop
Williams and Mr. Morris, Mr. and Mrs. Quinby and Mr. and Mrs.
Miller were all living together, and in which he himself made his
first home, after one of the other families moved out into an
other Japanese house near by. There was the building in which
the first modest dispensary was opened, and the larger building,
afterwards occupied, which was the beginning of the present
St. Barnabas's Hospital. There were the house and garden, en
tirely unaltered, where, in 1876, Miss Eddy opened St. Agnes's
School for Japanese girls. There was the spot upon which stood
the first chapel of the Mission. Nothing has been retained of
this original property, but from the seed planted here has grown
all our Church work of to-day in Japan.
In Osaka itself we have now three organized churches, min
istered to by three Japanese deacons, under the direction of a
foreign presbyter, six preaching chapels, two schools for poor
children and an orphanage, beside the homes of the missionaries
on the Concession, and St. Barnabas's Hospital and dispensary.
From this as a centre, two other centres have been formed,
one at Nara, with its school property and large evangelistic work,
and the other at Kyoto, with its newly acquired site for a beauti
ful church and large and suitable buildings for St. Agnes's School ;
while, from this first centre, so large a part of the missionary
effort has been transferred to Tokyo that the branches of the tree
almost overshadow and efface the parent stem. Perhaps we
might happily compare the Mission rather to a banyan tree,
which is now so firmly rooted in several different places as to be

96 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
well prepared to bear the stress of storm and change, and to
abide unshaken all that the uncertain future of Japan may have
in store. In this land of earthquakes, physical and political, any
foreign enterprise, and certainly any missionary enterprise, needs
to have many and healthy roots to endure and to survive the dis
couragements and disasters that each to-morrow may possibly
bring. In Tokyo I was the guest of the Rev. Mr. Page, to whose
constant care I was indebted for numberless opportunities of see
ing not only our own mission work with entire thoroughness,
but much of the mission work of other Christian bodies, and
private and public Japanese schools, as well as much beside that
was of interest and profit. 1 cannot be grateful enough for the
time devoted to making my visit in Japan both useful and pleas
ant, or for the kind hospitality with which he and Mrs. Page
welcomed me to their home and made me feel that it was my
home, too. In the same kind way I was also welcomed, before
leaving Tokyo, for a week's visit to the Rev. Mr. and Mrs.
Tyng, to both of whom I was much indebted for care' and guid
ance that would never let me think myself for a moment a
stranger in a strange land. Indeed, I should find it easy to fill
my letters with acknowledgments of the goodness of all our
missionaries to me, both in China and in Japan; but I can only
say that everywhere 1 had the happiness of being among friends,
and of being received as a friend by all.
Tsukiji, Tokyo, is the Foreign Concession where our largest
missionary investments of men and money have been made in
Japan. Here is the one spot where the church building is the
heart of a well organized Church life and work. Around it are
grouped the parish buildings, where the sessions of the Sunday-
school and meetings of many kinds are held; the Divinity School,
with its fine class rooms and library; St. Paul's Boarding School
for boys; St. Margaret's School for girls; the orphanage; the dis
pensary; and the homes of those missionaries whose labors begin
here and extend out into the city and beyond to out-stations
miles away.

TRINITY CHURCH, TSUKIJI, TOKYO.

98 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
Nowhere, excepting in Trinity Church, Paris, has it been my
good fortune, in the course of much travelling in Europe, Asia and
Africa, during the past two years, to hear our own American
Church Service so well rendered in the English tongue, accord
ing to the use of our own Book of Common Prayer, as here in
Trinity Church, Tokyo. And I am constrained to add that this
Trinity Church is perhaps more beautiful for Tokyo than that
Trinity Church is for Paris.
Sometimes in my wanderings through foreign missionary
lands, I have wondered what I should answer if asked what 1
would like to do in aid of foreign missions, as a result of my
own personal experience. Travelling in these Oriental countries,
with a glamour about them of romance and the Arabian Nights,
has a tendency to cultivate a vivid imagination, and I. have had
day dreams of how it would seem to transplant in its complete
ness a home parish, say the Church of the Holy Communion,
New York, with its entire congregation of rich and poor, its
pastor and his assistants and helpers, its Sisterhood and its Sun
day-school, its Home for the Aged, and its Babies' Shelter and
Summer Home, with all its manifold guilds and societies and
agencies for good works, right into the heart of — say this very
city of Tokyo. It would leave a great gap in New York for a
time, but a gap that speedily would be filled by the multitude of
other parishes and other workers. But what would such a trans
planting mean here ?
Suppose, instead, it were Grace Church, New York, with
its rectory and surrounding buildings, its day nursery, its chapel,
its charities, and its congregation of rich and poor, its whole
staff of workers with its rector at their head, all the wealth of
architectural and artistic beauty and of noble philanthropy, as it
exists to-day, and including all that is planned for the future,
what a revelation it would be to Tokyo'or to Osaka, to Shanghai
or to Wuchang, of what our Church in America really is, and of
what it is fitted to do !
Suppose, once more, it were Trinity Church, New York,
with its grand services, its parish schools, all its chapels, and its

DIVINITY SCHOOL AND PARISH BUILDING,' TSUKIJI.

ioo THE FIRST JOURNEY.
whole band of clergy, its complete and united congregations,
and its entire wealth— what a splendid gift that would be to the
foreign field !
Well, these are only day dreams. Compared with any effort
on so grand a scale, we have done little indeed. There are not
enough American Church people, men, women and children,
in the whole of China and Japan, to fill even the chantry of
Grace Church, and what impression can such a mere handful
make upon the millions among whom they have come to dwell ?
But at least we have one Church community of some measure
of strength planted securely in Tsukiji, Tokyo. We have St.
John's College, Shanghai, and all its surrounding institutions and
property and its lovely chapel. We have our well-established
work in Hankow and Wuchang in China, and our three other
centres in Osaka and Kyoto and Nara in Japan.
This is something upon which we may hope to build in
future years. Under the new Bishops, more men and more
means may make these six points powerful for greater good, and
lay fresh foundations elsewhere upon which later generations in
their turn may build. The day has gone by for doing only small
things. Large and generous efforts are needed now, or we shall
lose what we have already gained. We can well afford to make
them, for God has blessed us with great prosperity at home, and
every venture for Him in heathen lands will be abundantly re
paid within our own. The time must come when, if we are
to remain in these foreign lands at all, we must be here in much
strength. The immense claim that Japan has upon us lies in the fact
that it is our nearest neighbor, and that possibly upon its Chris-
tianization may depend the winning of the whole Asiatic con
tinent to Christ. It is the gateway through which we reach the
East. It is bound up with all our missionary history and our
missionary future in China. It is the land where, outside Amer
ica, the American Church should be seen in its fullest vigor and
most beautiful life to-day. It is the telephone through which
we hear the call of more distant nations, the telescope through

TOKYO.

101

nSQlOCHt, r~

jj.r -ji'

SIX JAPANESE LADS.

102 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
which we look in the earnest endeavor to pierce the gloom that
hides them from our view, the telegraph which may yet carry
our message of good-will into the very darkest and the remot
est places of the earth.
In the English churches where I have worshipped from
time to time, in one of the Hymnals often used, I have found a
missionary hymn with which we in America are not familiar.
It reminds us how our foreign and domestic missionary work
are bound together, and how the work of the Church is not a
divided work, but one work, even the very work of Christ Him
self. It belongs to us all alike, and there is no escape:
"Through midnight gloom from Macedon,
The cry of myriads as of one,
The voiceful silence of despair,
Is eloquent in awful prayer;
The soul's exceeding bitter cry,
'Come o'er and help us, or we die.'
"How mournfully it echoes on!
For half the earth is Macedon;
These brethren to their brethren call,
And by the love which loved them all,
And by the whole world's life they cry,
'O ye that live, behold, we die!
"By other sounds the world is won,
Than that which wails from Macedon;
The roar of gain is round it roll'd,
Or men unto themselves are sold,
And cannot list the alien cry,
'Oh, hear and help us, lest we die!'
"Yet with that cry from Macedon,
The very car of Christ rolls on ;
'I come; who would abide My day,
In yonder wilds prepare My way;
My voice is crying in their cry,
Help ye the dying, lest ye die.'
"Jesus, for men, of man the Son,
Yea, Thine the cry from Macedon;
Oh, by the kingdom and the power,
And glory of Thine Advent hour,
Wake heart and will to hear their cry,
Help us to help them, lest we die."

XVI.
AOMORI.
HP HE journey by rail of nearly 500 miles from Tokyo to Aomori
takes twenty-six hours, but it was a journey to me very
well worth making. It enabled me to see much more of Japan
than I could otherwise have done, travelling from the extreme
south to the extreme north of the main island; but, beside that,
it gave me the satisfaction of having seen our entire mission
field, from the point where Bishop Williams first began work at
Nagasaki to this our latest station at Aomori.
Here our one missionary, Miss Suthon, lives alone, the sol
itary foreigner in a town of some 20,000 Japanese, with no
friends nearer than Tokyo in the one direction, or Hakodate,
across the bay, six hours distant by steamer, on the northern
island, where the English Church Missionary Society and the
American Methodists each have a station.
Aomori is a bleak fishing town, swept by the north winds,
with a winter lasting from early in November until late in May,
when the snow lies ten feet deep, often burying the houses quite
out of sight in the drifting storms.
It is the home, however, of the governor of the province
and of many government officials, and here is quartered the
northern contingent of the Japanese army, under the Prince Im
perial, the Emperor's brother. It is therefore a place of consid
erable importance, and, as the railroad terminus and the port of
connection with Hakodate, it is kept in close relations with the
outside distant world.
Our mission was established here last October, Miss Suthon
having for her associates and fellow-workers a Japanese cate-
chist and a Bible-woman. A small day school has been gath
ered, taught by the Bible-woman at the house of the catechist,
where also the Sunday-school is held, of which it forms the



CHURCH AND SCHOOL BUILDING, AOMORI. (BUILT 1 896.)

AOMORI. 105
nucleus, the same room being used as a preaching-place on Sun
day and other evenings. A room in the house occupied by Miss
Suthon and her Bible-woman is used for the Sunday morning
service, and here the children are invited, with their mothers
once a month, for singing and a Japanese treat. The women
have meetings also at this house, and here the young men come
for lessons in English, and singing, and Christianity, and this is
the centre for friendly social intercourse and kindly acquaint
ance among the people.
This is missionary work at the very beginning, requiring
much patient sowing in faith, and yet already there is an early
reward for the labor bestowed.
I made the trip with Mr. Page, spending Sunday and Mon
day at Aomori, during which time he held a series of services
and meetings, with preaching and instruction, on Sunday
morning celebrating the Holy Communion and baptizing eight
persons, five men and one woman and two children, this being
his third visit in the eight months since the work began.
It has seemed to me that here is an opportunity for some
parish or person at home, desirous of giving generously to thor
oughly evangelistic work in the foreign field, to take this par
ticular point in charge, and contribute from time to time what
may be necessary for its growth and development.
Miss Suthon's wish is to open this summer two more day
schools in other parts of the town, making them feeders to the
Sunday-school, and using in them as teachers persons connected
with the mission, one or more of whom may in time prove fitted
for the office of catechist, or else graduates from our girls'
schools. The rent of suitable Japanese houses, and the small
salaries necessary for the teachers, would be the first outlay;
but it is hoped that the return for such expenditure would be a
large number ready for baptism, and a class of at least six pre
pared for confirmation, when the new Bishop makes his first
visitation in the fall, with an overflowing Sunday-school suffi-
. cient to warrant the renting or building of a new room for it
and for a preaching-place another year.

MISS SUTHON S SCHOOL FOR GIRLS, AOMORI.

AOMORI. 107
It is a point seriously to be considered, by those who believe
in foreign missions, how far it is possible to be content with
merely sustaining work already started or established. Must we
not be continually going forward, and, by a ready response to
every encouragement, must we not show a steadfast faith in
God's power and promises ? There might be a line of beacon
lights all the way from Tokyo to Aomori, if we had a few more
missionaries to do such work as Miss Suthon is doing here, aided
by Japanese helpers, and ministered to by the occasional visit of
a clergyman. At Aomori a telegram reached us with the message: " Both
consecrations next Wednesday," and we rejoiced to know that
so soon the two Bishops were to be ready to lead onward the
work in China and Japan.
Returning to Tokyo from this latest and most isolated sta
tion in our foreign missionary field, on June 14, the day of the
consecration, it mattered little that we did not know certainly in
what church or city of the United States the service so impor
tant to us so far away was being held. Wherever it might be,
in spirit we were there, and with a deeper and more intensely
realizing sense of its meaning and promise than most of those
who might be there in bodily presence could know. It mattered
still less that the hour when the Japanese and the English con
gregations met in Trinity Church, Tsukiji, was not the same as
that on which the consecration was actually taking place. With us
the day was done, when far away at home it was but just begin
ning. Even in that thought there was a promise and a blessing.
Once, at a twilight service in the English chapel in Osaka,
a hymn was sung that seemed to me beautifully to round out
this missionary journey, and to voice a thousand thoughts that
had grown stronger and clearer with every step of the way. At
such a time as this, the words are recalled with a fresh sense of
all the happiness and thankfulness that they convey, and as con
taining the best of all the good things that I would have asso
ciated with this simple record of a few months' sojourn in
Eastern lands :

108 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
"The day Thou gavest, Lord, is ended,
The darkness falls at Thy behest;
To Thee our morning hymns ascended,
Thy praise shall hallow now our rest.
" We thank Thee that Thy Church, unsleeping,
While earth rolls onward into light,
Through all the world her watch is keeping,
And rests not now by day or night.
" As o'er each continent and island,
The dawn leads on another day,
The voice of prayer is never silent,
Nor dies the strain of praise away.
" The sun that bids us rest is waking
Our brethren 'neath the Western sky,
And hour by hour fresh lips are making
Thy wondrous doings heard on high.
"So be it, Lord; Thy throne shall never,
Like earth's proud empires, pass away,
But stand, and rule, and grow forever,
Till all Thy creatures own Thy sway."

XVII.
NIKKO.
HTHERE is a saying in Japan that "you cannot say kekko until
you have seen Nikko," kekko being the Japanese word for
beautiful. I celebrated the Fourth of July by choosing that national fes
tival for the five hours' railroad ride from Tokyo to Nikko, where
I was to be the guest of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Woodman for
the last few days of my stay in Japan. Tokyo had grown sud
denly intensely hot, and the relief was great to find myself trans
ported to a region of delicious coolness, and to surroundings of
such unique and picturesque loveliness as to make me quite
ready to quote with emphasis the words that had so frequently
been quoted to me during the two months since I landed in
Kobe. It is true that it rained every day but one while 1 was in
Nikko, but not without daily flashes and bursts of sunshine that
brought out the lights and shadows on the verdure covered hills
and moss clad walls, and brightened the splendid groves and
avenues of cryptomeria with an enchanting spell. Within the
shelter of the little Japanese house which forms a missionary's
summer holiday home, we looked out always on an exquisite
view, and whenever the passing showers permitted, we ven
tured out for near walks and excursions, and once for an all-day
jinrikisha ride.
The trip from Nikko to Lake Chu-zen-ji is said to be the
most beautiful in Japan ; and I felt myself fortunate to be able to
make it, in pleasant company and under fairly favorable circum
stances, even though it was on a typical mountain day, fitful and
fickle, with every variety of mist and cloud and rain and sun
shine. The road was dreadful, rough at the best, and much
washed away since the last mending, but our jinrikisha men

RED LACQUER BRIDGE, NIKKO.

NIKKO. in
were strong and careful and good-natured, and we met with no
harm and no misadventure. For four hours we climbed up and
up the rugged mountain pass, looking off on hills crowned to the
summit with the most brilliant verdure, and down upon a rush
ing, roaring torrent of foaming water, touched with every
changing hue of sapphire and emerald. Several times we
stopped to rest and enjoy the view at some wayside tea house,
and on the summit, overlooking the lovely lake, we ate our
picnic lunch, and waited for a while before attempting the long
descent. Now and then a party of Japanese passed us on the road,
travelling in the kago or mountain chair, or we met a number of
packhorses with their heavy loads well protected by the great
sheets of oiled paper so common in this country of moisture, the
drivers making quaint pictures in their broad hats and straw rain
capes. It was an expedition to be long remembered, and one
that no traveller in Japan should miss, who has an opportunity to
make it.
The Nikko temples are proverbial for their richness, and
have become well known by photographs to all who know any
thing of the temples of Japan. They abound in the most pol
ished lacquer, in the finest carving, the heaviest gilding, the
utmost profusion of decoration, and above all they possess the
charm of an unsurpassed setting in a natural beauty of rocks and
trees, which becomes only the more striking when one is re
minded that this, too, is all artificial, the planting and arrange
ment being also the work of man, years and years ago.
Here in Nikko one sees Japan as the ordinary tourist sees it —
at its best and loveliest; and here it is easy to comprehend why
this same tourist discovers no hardships in missionary life in such
a fair country, and so concludes that this is quite too comfort
able a home for a missionary, a land where he can do nothing
but enjoy himself, and where he probably finds no real work to
do. Perhaps we have too often been accustomed to judge of a
missionary's work and life by its difficulties and trials, and it
may be well sometimes to remember that it has bright spots and

I 12

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

a sunny side, and that, even to a missionary, the promise now
and then comes true, "Seek ye first the kingdom of God and
His righteousness, and all these things shall be added."
In a late and excellent book, "An American Missionary in
Japan," by the Rev. M. L. Gordon, M.D., which should be
widely read by all who are watching the progress of Christianity
in Japan, a missionary gives a vivid picture of his position from
his own point of view. It is so admirable that, in quoting some
passages from it, I am able to give my own experience in better
words than I could otherwise find, while introducing my readers
at the same time to a volume which, if they have not yet seen,
they will find full of interest and profit.
The writer, after referring to the mistaken idea common
among those who have not thoroughly acquainted themselves
with the subject, goes on to say:

M ' r? , ¦ -'.„:. Af"< -:^q~ ' '-

TEMPLE AT NIKKO.

NIKKO. 113
" Men who cared little about Christianity and nothing about
the heathen, and had no faith whatever in missions, were often
ready to give for the relief of their suffering countrymen, even
while railing at the folly of their undertaking. And for many
years the ground of the most moving appeals, even to Christians,
was not the condition of the un-Christian world, the wide open
doors, or the successes already attained; it was the hardships of
the missionaries. " This period has long since passed away, but it is doubtless
still as a rule true that the young missionary goes to his field with
the thought of similar trials for himself and family as at least a
possibility. If destined for Japan, however, he finds himself in
his outward journey travelling under very different circumstances
from those of Henry Martyn or William Carey. Instead of the
former's tedious voyage of more than nine months on a small,
uncomfortable sailing vessel, he goes on a swift and palatially
appointed steamship, reaching his destination perhaps within a
fortnight of his departure from his native land, . . . and
although going out prepared for hardship, he finds that the lines
have fallen to him in exceedingly pleasant places. . . .
"The society which sends him out provides him with a
comfortable house, and gives him a salary which, though not
large, is sufficient for his modest wants. . . . The mis
sionary also lives in a land of unique beauty, a beauty which has
stamped itself upon the art, literature and manners of the people.
It has begotten in even the unlettered rustic a love for flowers, a
love for natural scenery, a poetic and artistic sense unequalled,
perhaps, in any other people. ... In the spring the plum,
peach, azalea, cherry, and a host of other flowers, successively
lend their hues to the mountain sides; and the valleys which
nestle between them — green seas of growing wheat dotted with
islands of the brilliant golden rape — make a picture which once
seen is never forgotten. And then the autumn! Where are there
brighter days, or balmier skies, or more bewitching sunsets? . . .
"But after all, the greatest attraction in Japan is in its
people. They are, many of them, attractive for what they are,

114 THE FIRST JOURNEY.
attractive for what they need and for their willingness to receive,
and attractive for their possibilities as a people. Their patri
otism, their politeness, their refinement, their impulsiveness, their
sunny temper, their simplicity, their friendliness, so charm the
visitor or sojourner among them, that he finds himself unwilling
to become their critic, or to write freely of the darker side of the
picture. "The missionary sees, both in these excellencies and de
fects, their need of Christ, and the opportunity of His Church;
and while recognizing the fact that Christianity has not yet
borne perfect fruit in America, Europe, or anywhere, he leaves
the work of the more complete Christianization of his native
land to the thousands able and willing to engage in it, and joy
fully and hopefully casts in his lot with the comparatively few
laborers in Japan. He is joyful because of his favorable sur
roundings, the glorious message which he bears, and the imme
diate success which is given him ; hopeful because of his faith
in the power of the Gospel and the possibilities of the people,
the evidences of whose quickened and vigorous life he sees on
every hand.
" As has already been intimated, besides the ' detested exile
from his native land ' — to use the expressive words of a Yoko
hama editor — which one who spends his life in a foreign land
necessarily undergoes, and the pain of family separation, which
words cannot exaggerate, the missionary has no hardships or
privations which call for the consecration usually associated
with his work. If these hardships be made an essential element
of the missionary life, then we in Japan are, as we often say,
unworthy of the name.
" Herein is an unrecognized cause of much of the unfavor
able criticism of missionaries with which sea captains and others
who visit Eastern lands periodically regale the public. They as
sume the identity of the missionary life with physical discom
fort, and that missionary funds are raised to relieve the suffering
missionaries; and so, if they find them living in comfortable
houses and decently clothed, they rate them all hypocrites, as

NIKKO. 115
they certainly would be, were the above assumptions
true. . . .
t " But because the missionary in Japan has few or no physical
privations to endure, it must not be concluded that consecration
is not required for his work. He will find need for all he pos
sesses, and more, too; but it will be to meet intellectual and
spiritual difficulties. These difficulties are incident to bringing
the Gospel close to the hearts and lives of those who are so
different from himself in language, thought and traditions, and
the planting of the Church of Christ among an independent and
highly sensitive people.
" The wise missionary is content to be, as he has been called
by them, 'the guest,' of the Japanese, their helper, the John
Baptist, who decreases while they increase, in no wise seeking
to have dominion over their faith, but always ready to be simply
a helper of their faith, knowledge and joy. He who takes this
subordinate position, willingly and gracefully on all occasions,
ever believing, hoping, and enduring all things, is not likely to
be troubled by any surplus consecration. If, however, he can
stand this severest of tests, he will find his work and life such a
continual joy, that he will be able to say of it what Bishop
Phillips Brooks has said of the work of the ministry in general:
' In a world where there are a great many good and happy
things to do, God has given us the best and happiest.' '

n6

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

CROWN PRINCE OF JAPAN.

THE SECOND JOURNEY.
I.
ACROSS THE COUNTRY TO SAN FRANCISCO.
\ A /HAT one has done once seems less difficult to do again,
and so it happened that when the opportunity was of
fered me to make another journey round the world, the ques
tion to be answered was not, How can I do it ? but rather, What
good reason have I for refusing?
The acceptance of the invitation involved a rapid ride across
the country, to join in San Francisco the friends in whose com
pany I was to make the voyage to the Hawaiian Islands, Japan,
China and India, but that was an interesting experience, for it
enabled me to see, as it were at a glance and not in sections,
this great land of ours, and to realize, more perfectly than ever
before, how closely the Atlantic and the Pacific coasts are bound
together in these days of steam and enterprise.
Three thousand miles and more, in one hundred hours, is
indeed rapid, continuous travelling. To leave New York at
half-past four on a Monday afternoon, June 29, 1896, and arrive
in sight of the Golden Gate, Friday evening at half-past eight,
would have seemed incredible not many years ago. And to do
it so easily, in one vestibule train to Chicago, connecting speedily
witli another for the rest of the way, dining-car attached for the
whole distance, and more comforts than many hotels can offer,
cannot but remind one of the fabled carpet upon which Eastern
tellers of Arabian tales carried their wondering listeners away
into fairy land. Only this is no country of romance across
which we travel, even with the best appliances of modern in
vention, but a sober and serious reality. It is the land of our
inheritance, and the thought of what we are to do with it is
sufficient to occupy the mind of the traveller for all the dis
tance.

n8

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

First come the great Eastern cities, centres of wealth ana
refinement and material power, ending with Omaha, now at
the very gate and on the boundary line of what may at present
be truly called "The West." Then there are long stretches of
wheat fields and corn fields and potato fields, then herds of
cattle on wide ranges of pasturage, then barren plains, brown
and desolate, then new verdure, surrounding Mormon settle
ments, the snow-capped mountain peaks, the Great Salt Lake,
and, farther on, Donner Lake, the glories of the Sierra Nevada
range, and finally California and the Pacific slope.

DONNER LAKE.
This is our Domestic Missionary field, where the traveller
passes from weak dioceses to weaker missionary jurisdictions,
where little towns and hamlets springing up along the way
appeal for help and sympathy, and where the simple wooden
church with its spire and cross tell of how the help and sym
pathy so far given have been expended.

ACROSS THE COUNTRY TO SAN FRANCISCO. 1 19
In midsummer one cannot but look upon it as a dreary land,
coming from the glorious green of New England and the Middle
States, and there is no temptation to think of the missionaries as
leading luxurious lives in the midst of this sage-brush and on
these dusty plains. Shall we grudge them their small stipends
and make their hard service harder by making them smaller
still? One wonders how the Church is to take root and grow in
this wild waste and among so scattered a people. Fifty years
ago the Indian and the buffalo ranged over all this region, and
it has been work enough, many will tell us, merely to have con
quered the country from savage beast and man, and to have laid
the foundations of a future greatness in these first beginnings of
civilization along the line of the railroad with the finer line of the
telegraph by its side. Steam and electricity have been pioneers,
but the Gospel must go with them, or the homes the settlers
seek in this far away region will be poor and forlorn indeed.
One is glad to think of Cheyenne and Laramie, and Boise
City and Helena; of Sioux Falls and Salt Lake City and Kearney,
and many other points near and distant, where the Church
school and hospital stand beside the cross-crowned spire and
prove that it is a Christian civilization that is subduing and re
making the land, and not a material one only. And one likes to
remember how the missionary bishop goes in and out of these
scattered hamlets and growing towns known and loved and
respected, a father to his people and a leading citizen of the
State. To have sent such men as Bishop Tuttle, and Bishop
Whitaker, and Bishop Hare, and Bishop Morris, and Bishop Kip
out into this Western country, to lay foundations and to create
an ideal of Christian manhood and of the highest statemanship
as the Church understands it, is no mean privilege, and it is one
for which every Churchman and Churchwoman travelling
through this land may be glad and grateful.
All is not lost even when the Church is slow in coming. It
is a mistake to say she has no future because her children lag
behind others in making her known in a new place and to a new

120

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

population. Let her only come, and come with power, and
some day men, weary of other voices, will listen, and recognize
in her tones something for which they have long been waiting,
a different tone and cadence, not human but divine. How can
we say daily that we "believe in the Holy Catholic Church" if
we are not sure of her final triumph? But do we believe if we
ourselves are taking no pains to have part in that triumph?

GOING OUT OF THE GOLDEN GATE.
In the only beautiful part of the journey across the country,
by the Union Pacific, the railroad passes for forty-two miles,
and for two whole hours, under snow-sheds, built to protect
the track and guard the trains in the storms of winter. It is a
monotonous, tiresome portion of the ride, made the more trying
by glimpses, through broken spaces or too infrequent openings

ACROSS THE COUNTRY TO SAN FRANCISCO. 121
in the board walls of the sheds, of the lovely Truckee River or
Donner Lake outside. And yet, as one steadily gazes, the spaces
seem to grow larger and more frequent, and the landscape more
clear, until one almost imagines the boards to have changed into
thin veils, through which the snow mountains and the pines
and the glittering waters below become plainly visible.
It is a symbol of many a longer journey, and even of the
journey of life itself. Shut in we may be by dull, immediate
surroundings and by seemingly unpropitious circumstances.
But just outside the boundry line of that daily life lies a fair
prospect of a larger life, in which we may claim a part if our
spiritual vision is but clear enough to see it.
And when we have crossed the country and taken ship to
sail far away to other lands, the Golden Gate through which
we pass reminds us of the close of all earthly journeys, and of
that last and boundless ocean of eternity which lies beyond.
Then shall all human limitations fade away forever, and the
ending of our earthly pilgrimage prove but the beginning of a
voyage, upon unknown waters it may be, but not out of light
into darkness — rather from the darkness into Light. For each
one of us may these lines be true:
My bark is wafted to the strand
By breath divine;
And on the helm there rests a hand
Other than mine.
" One who has known in storms to sail,
1 have on board;
Above the raging of the gale
I hear my Lord.
" He holds me when the billows smite,
I shall not fall.
If sharp, 'tis short; if long, 'tis light;
He tempers all.
" Safe to the land, safe to the land,
The end is this;
And then with Him go hand in hand,
Far into bliss!"

II.
ACROSS THE OCEAN TO HONOLULU.
A S in sailing eastward one comes to no country that seems so
**¦ much like home as England, so in sailing westward the
American can feel nowhere so much at home as in the Hawaiian
Islands. Here one finds the blue sky and even climate of Cali
fornia, with its ever-green and ever-blossoming tropical and
semi-tropical, vines and trees, only intensified to a perpetual sum
mer, and here one finds the people of one's own land dominat
ing the social life and order and introducing a republican govern
ment, modelled upon that of the United States, with the avowed
intention of adding, if possible, eventually another star to the
flag and another state to the Union.
We left San Francisco on July n, by the S. S. "Australia"
of the Oceanic Line, and arrived in Honolulu after six peaceful
days and nights on the Pacific. Passed through the customs'
with the least possible delay, we were soon comfortably settled
in the Hawaiian Hotel, with its broad verandas and beautiful
grounds, in which grow palms and mangoes and bananas and
the gorgeous, flame-like flowering Tonciana Regia, and where
twelve attractive little cottages receive the overflow of guests.
Our letters brought us immediately calls from many friends,
and the kindest attentions were showered upon us during our
stay by these warm-hearted hospitable people, who have, and
well deserve, the reputation of receiving strangers always with
open arms and the utmost cordiality and good will.
I felt myself fortunate in having introductions to English as
well as American residents, and in finding among both that we
had many mutual friends and common interests, for it would be
a loss and a misfortune to know but one section of the com
munity, even though it might be the part with which one might
be supposed to be most familiar and to find most congenial.

ACROSS THE OCEAN TO HONOLULU.

125

An American Churchwoman must have sympathies in seem
ingly opposite directions, and feel drawn in different ways in
matters that may be under discussion here, both of Church and
State. But that should be a reason not for dissension, but for
increased concord, since one may, if one will, have the best in
terests of all at heart, and be bound but the closer to what one
values most on either side by kindly intercourse with each and
every one whom one may meet.

VIEW OF HONOLULU, FORT STREET.
Americans were the first white settlers of these islands,
missionaries of the Congregational Board coming here from New
England in 1820, followed by others in 1823 and 1828, until in
1848 twelve companies had arrived from the United States.
They found a singularly open-minded people, who had just, of
their own accord, cast away their idols, and were ready and

124 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
eager for a Christian civilization. A popular system of schools
spread rapidly over the islands, and it is said that before the end
of 1824, 2,000 of the inhabitants had learned to read and write,
while all were so anxious to acquire the new and wonderful art
that at length almost the entire population attended school.
The nation was fortunate, in the Kamehameha dynasty, to
possess a line of kings having unusually lofty qualities, both of
head and heart. Indeed, the chieftain class seems to have been
as distinctively superior to the common people in mental and
moral force, in courage and in physique, as in rank. They were
the true friends of their subjects and their leaders in the accept
ance of Christianity and of modern ideas of liberty and liberal
education. Already, long before the coming of the American mission
aries, during Vancouver's three visits, in 1792, 1793 and 1794,
the chiefs had begged to have white teachers sent to them to
give them the religion of England; a request renewed from time
to time, and pressed even by our own Bishop Kip, until, "in
1859, Mr. R. C. Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Affairs, communi
cated to the Hawaiian Consul in London the desire of the king
and queen that a clergyman of the Church of England should be
settled in Honolulu to act as chaplain for the royal family, who
offered to give a site for a church and to guarantee a certain sum
toward his support. The king also wrote an autograph letter on
the subject to Queen Victoria. This request excited much inter
est in England, and a committee was formed to organize a
mission to the islands, the first Bishop being consecrated Dec.
15, 1861." This is the account, as given in Alexander's "History of
the Hawaiian People," of the introduction of the English Church
into the islands.
Meanwhile the independence of the Hawaiian kingdom had
been declared in 1843, and recognized by other nations; the
American Congregational Board had ceased to grant missionary
funds, the people being considered Christianized and civilized,
but the children of these earliest missionary families, perhaps

ACROSS THE OCEAN TO HONOLULU.

I2S

fifty families in number, born and bred on the islands, had their
homes among the natives and formed nn important and influen
tial part of the population.
The French and Portuguese had also come in, in considerable
numbers, and the Roman Catholic Church was here to minister
to them, having also work among the natives, increased of late
years by the heroic life and death of Father Damien at the leper
settlement of Molokai, and the opening of schools by the Fran
ciscan Sisters. And this is not all, for here are to be found to
day Chinese and Japanese in numbers equalling the native
Hawaiians, while Mormons and Theosophists strive to gain a
footing by their side.
It is then at present a truly cosmopolitan population, com
posing both Oriental and Occidental races, with the American

QUEEN S HOSPITAL, HONOLULU.

126 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
type still predominating over all others. How long this will be
so we cannot tell, but some curious and interesting questions
are suggested by the present condition of things.
Nearly opposite the Beretania Street entrance to the hotel is
St. Andrew's Cathedral, embowered in trees within its pretty
close, dignified and beautiful, though incomplete; two English-
speaking congregations worshipping morning and evening
within its walls, and a native congregation in the afternoon.
There is Holy Communion every Sunday and Thursday and on
Saints' days at 6.30 a. m., and Morning Prayer is said daily at
7 o'clock. At one side of the cathedral is the Chinese mission
chapel, where a small but most respectable and devout Christian
Chinese congregation worships, ministered to by the Bishop and
his clergy, including two deacons of their own race and speech.
On the other side of the cathedral is St. Andrew's priory, where
the Sisters of the Community of the Holy Trinity, from Deven-
port, England, "Miss Sellon's Sisterhood," as it is often called,
have carried on their boarding and day school for girls for nearly
thirty years. They have about one hundred and fifty girls under
their charge, while the Bishop at Iolani College, adjoining his
home in the sweet Nuuanu valley, a mile away, is training some
forty or fifty boys under his own eye. In this mission of the
English Church, American Church people cannot but feel a deep
interest. Clergy of the American Church have often ministered
at its altars. One is here now from the diocese of Missouri,
serving in the absence of the Bishop's chaplain, away on his
vacation. Supposing now the dream of annexation should come true,
and the Hawaiian Islands should become a possession of the
United States — would the American Church fall heir to this
noble cathedral and all the accompanying educational work, and
would it be ready to carry on the services and the varied daily
duties of the inheritance faithfully and well ? The dream may
be but a dream, indeed; but one cannot but think of such a pos
sibility while sharing in the privileges that are given to-day, and
while considering seriously the political problems of the future.

ACROSS THE OCEAN TO HONOLULU. 127
Honolulu holds out many attractions to the traveller, and
more to the invalid seeking a warm and pleasant climate in
which to winter, or in which to make a permanent home. Day
after day in this month of July the mercury ranges steadily from
750 in the early morning to 850 in the middle of the afternoon,
and all the while a most delicious breeze prevents this moderate
measure of summer heat from feeling oppressive, and winter
weather is but some ten degrees cooler with the same soft sun
shine, the same sweet air and only a little more frequent show
ers. The summer showers are merely like a sunshiny mist, just
sufficient to paint the clouds that hover over the green hillsides
with lovely rainbow hues. These hills are the special charm of

SISTERS' SCHOOL, ST. ANDREW'S PRIORY, HONOLULU.

128 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
the view in one direction, while in the other are the blue and
violet and emerald waters of the sea. One should take the
drive around " Punch-bowl," the crater of a long extinct volca
no, at the hour of sunset, to enjoy both ocean and mountain to
the full. Then there are the drives to Pali and to Tantalus, where the
ascent is steeper still and the prospect wider and grander, and
the nearer and quieter ride to Waikiki, under Diamond Head, to
see the bathing on the beach and the canoe-riding on the surf.
And .there is the thirty-mile trip by the one railroad, by and by
to encompass the island, to see Pearl Harbor, one of the most
magnificent harbors in the world, and large enough to hold all
the navies of the world, granted the United States by treaty with
the Hawaiian Government as a repair and coaling station. Out
in this direction are sugar plantations, extending over thousands
of acres, with sugar mills most interesting to visit, banana plan
tations, pine-apple canning factories, and rice-fields, with the
picturesque cocoanut grove always a special feature of the land
scape. Taro patches are everywhere, the root forming the
native staple dish, eaten like a sweet potato or made into poi,
a thin substance like paste universally used by Hawaiians from
time immemorial.
The natives themselves are the most picturesque portion of
the scene, with their brown skin and gentle ways, the women
dressed in the simple gown first given them by the missionaries,
known as the holoku, and men and women both adorned with
leis or wreaths and necklaces of brilliant flowers, or of maile, a
favorite fern not altogether in leaf unlike the sweet fern of our
New England woods. One soon grows to know these many
gorgeous flowers by name, recognizing those one has seen at
home, like the hibiscus which here grows in massive hedges, or
the lantana, a wild tangle everywhere along the roadside; or,
becoming acquainted with others, less familiar there but seen
in former tropical journeyings — the alamanda with its yellow
trumpet, the golden shower, and the plumaria. It is like meet
ing old friends and making new ones.

ACROSS THE OCEAN TO HONOLULU. 129
Beside these things, there is the Oahu College to visit, and the
admirably arranged museum, containing such a tine and valuable
selection of Pacific Island relics and curios, and there are the happy
and hospitable homes of these kind people who make the stranger
welcome; so welcome as soon to feel like a stranger no longer.

GOVERNMENT BUILDING.
To come here once is to make one wish to come again. We
cannot but leave Honolulu with regret, knowing that in going
on, we not only turn our faces still farther away from home,
but realizing that we leave what is almost another bit of Amer
ica, even though two thousand miles distant from San Francisco,
on those sunny islands, " the Paradise of the Pacific."
We shall always wish well to this pleasant land, trusting
that peace and prosperity may attend its future, and that native
and foreigner may ever continue friendly to each other through

130

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

whatever changes future days may bring. If the friendship that
has so long existed has been in these last few years strained by
political revolution, we cannot but hope that justice and upright
ness will so prevail in all the counsels of the State, that early
ties may be reknit and mutual confidence speedily be restored.
The ancient dynasty of the Kamehamehas is gone, but it
has left many cherished memories behind, and a legacy worthy
the acceptance of any government, republican or monarchial, in
the national legend and motto of the Hawaiian Islands for half a
century, engraven still upon its silver coin: " Ua mau keea 0 ha
ainaika pono." "The strength of the land is in righteousness."
Let the people and their rulers but remember this, and act in ac
cordance with the truth it teaches, and their country will well
deserve to be called a Paradise and to be ever remembered with
affection by the passing guest, even as by its own children.

THE PALACE.

III.
HAWAII AND "THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE."
IIONOLULU, the capital and most important city of the Ha
waiian Islands, is situated on the island of Oahu, one of the
eight inhabited islands out of the twenty that compose the
group. The English meaning of its name is Fairhaven, given
by the captain of a trading vessel, who discovered the beautiful
harbor in 1794. We felt that it well deserved the name, as we
looked back upon it from the deck of the "Kinau," a little
steamship seaworthy but ever to be remembered as making the
most uncomfortable passage possible, only to be described as
equalling thirty hours of the English Channel, and as we gazed
upon it again gladly on our return after a week's absence. And
yet in that week we had seen Hilo, one of the prettiest tropical
villages to be found anywhere; Hamakua Cliffs, surpassing the
Yosemite in grandeur, and the greatest active volcano in the
world, the Lake of Halemaumau, or the House of Everlasting
Fire, in the crater of Kilauea, 4,000 feet above the sea, with
Manua Loa, 13,675 feet high, towering silently above its fiery
lava flow.
The " Kinau " bears the name of the first heathen chieftess
who threw her influence on the side of Christianity, but it rides
the ocean with a fierceness and malignity much more resembling
the heathen than the Christian nature of this famous chieftess,
and forces the most seasoned sailors to succumb to seasickness,
while those who are easily made ill by a voyage will need to
take all their courage on board and to prepare for misery which
indeed requires one of the wonders of the world to repay.
These inter-island steamers touch at many little ports, all
the landings being made by small boats, the most interesting to
us being Lahaina, on the island of Maui, formerly the residence
of the king, and the chief city, and the place where the mission

132

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

rt-4

work of the Church of England began, and Mahukona on Ha
waii, the largest, most beautiful and most productive island of
the group, where we had breakfast and two or three restful and
refreshing hours on land.
From the pretty porch where we sat, we could look across
to Haleakola, on Maui, the marvellous extinct crater, 10,000 feet
high, a mighty pit, 30 miles in circumference and 3,000 feet
deep, into which the whole of New York City could be thrown,
and which a party of gentlemen from among our fellow passen
gers on the "Australia" had just visited, giving us most graphic
accounts of their difficult excursion, and of the weird and won
derful moonlight, sunset and sunrising views that more
than recompensed them
for their long and weari
some climb. Returning to
the steamer, a few of us
struggled against the al
most overwhelming desire
to spend the entire day in
our berths, and managed
to remain on deck instead,
and enjoy as best we
could the magnificent
panorama spread before
us as we closely skirted
the shore, which far more
resembled a river bank than a bit of Pacific Ocean coast.
Hawaii produces sixty per cent, of all the exports of the
islands, and sixty miles of sugar-cane plantations spread out be
fore us as one feature of the landscape, but the charm of the
scenery consisted in the cliffs rising perpendicularly to the height
of 2,000 feet from the water's edge, and extending for many
miles along the way. Behind them arose a chain of mountains
6,000 feet high, all clothed in the brilliant verdure of the tropics,
while down the face of the cliffs innumerable waterfalls suc
ceeded one another, the highest measuring 1,800 feet, like silver

HARBOR OF HILO.

"THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE." 133
threads, or bridal veils, or showers of feathery spray. It was the
Palisades of the Hudson magnified, or the Yosemite beautified
with living green. Words fail to describe the impression accur
ately, but those who had travelled most agreed in saying that
probably nowhere else in the whole world could a grander and
at the same time more exquisite scene be found. Most of these
cliffs and mountains present an impassable barrier to the foot of
man, and no living creatures are known to exist upon them,
only a few sea birds frequenting them ; but at their base tiny
hamlets nestle, connected with one another by canoe, with their
native grass houses and taro patches giving life to a scene which
might otherwise be awful in its loneliness, however unique in its
natural beauty.
We reached Hilo at nightfall, and felt at once its simple and
picturesque charm, beginning with the fringe of cocoanut palms
along its graceful semi-circular shore. From the veranda of the
little hotel we looked out upon magnificent mangoes and an
India-rubber tree, towering high in the air, with a bird's-nest
fern growing in the crotch of its branching trunk, while the
grass was green as velvet below, and far away in the distance,
through the overhanging boughs, the eye rested upon the bril
liantly blue waters of the sea.
In the early morning a large, old-fashioned stage-coach, a
wagonette and two four-seated carriages were in readiness to
take the large party assembled from many different places, up
to the Volcano House, thirty miles away, by a fine lava road,
built by the Hawaiian Government at a cost of $100,000, and
completed only a year ago. Before that, although the volcano
has been visited by foreigners for a hundred years, a horseback
trail was the only method of approach, but now the drive is not
only comparatively easy, but one of the most beautiful possible
to imagine. On either side, for a great portion of the way, stretches the
unbroken tropical jungle, where every variety of colossal fern
first of all attracts the amazed attention. Tree-ferns in particu
lar spread themselves so high into the air that their lowest fronds

134

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

are beyond the reach of a man on horseback standing in his
stirrups, while close by, in harmonizing contrast, innumerable
vine trees called forth exclamations of delighted wonder. Gi
gantic wild bananas cluster together near the kukui, or candle-
nut tree, so called because the natives used to string their nuts
and burn them for their primitive lights; delicate morning glories
of the daintiest blue peep out now and then ; the fragrant blos
soms of the v/ild ginger pe/fume the air, and everywhere the

HAWAIIAN GRASS HOUSE.

Ohia or mountain apple, most native of native trees, mingle with
the rest, and last on and on, up the hillside, when others have
by degrees disappeared.
Half way up the winding road, rising by such slow degrees
that the rise was nearly imperceptible, we stopped for luncheon
spread on the veranda of a rude hotel, where the kindly welcome
and abundant meal appetizingly served, tempted us to linger be-

"THE HOUSF OF EVERLASTING FIRE." 135
yond the noontide hour. At various simple bungalows we also
paused for a wayside call, and to have our carriage filled with
roses and callas, cape jessamine and honeysuckle from the pretty
gardens, while we admired the fine coffee plantations with which
some of them were surrounded, and recognized anew the pepper
tree and the eucalyptus, the papaya, and the paudanus from
whose yellow nuts the Hawaiians make gorgeous necklaces or
lets. Ten thousand acres of coffee are growing near Hilo, and
the berry is considered as fine as any in the market. It is alto
gether a drive to be remembered, and as we take it we agree
that already we are beginning to be repaid for the miseries of
the thirty hours at sea.
The Volcano House comes in sight when about a mile away,
but we are conscious of our approach to it by the increasing
quantity of lava along the road, and by the little clouds of sul
phurous steam rising in all directions from the ground. We
found it a comfortable house with an attentive and intelligent
host, and were made so much at home by the blazing fire which
the higher altitude and cooler air made a welcome sight, that
we forgot for the time the fiercer fires that were blazing far
below. Our first introduction to Halemaumau took place in the
evening, when we saw painted against the sky the crimson glow
from the hidden furnace three and a half miles away, but it was
not until the evening of the following day that I paid my visit to
the " House of Everlasting Fire."
The crater of Kilauea is nine miles in circumference, one
edge of it coming to within a hundred feet of the hotel veranda.
From this direction we made our descent, the ladies of the party
and one of the gentlemen riding the native, sure-footed horses,
while others walked, provided with stout sticks and strong,
heavy shoes. Two experienced guides accompanied us with
lanterns, and I was so fortunate as to have one to myself to
lead my horse, so that 1 felt wonderfully secure. Our cavalcade
started at five o'clock, single file, slowly, step by step, down the
steep, wooded cliff leading to the long lava bed. The winding

.36

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

way by the narrow trail, with its closely growing ferns and
mountain plants and berries, fixed our attention until we found
ourselves stepping off the familiar soil upon the black cinders
and bubbly crust, with wave upon wave of these same black
bubbles stretching away in all directions, broken only by tre
mendous fissures and upheavals like pyramids, showing the
work of many an earlier lava flow and of earthquakes of not so
very distant days. Slowly the gathering darkness drew in upon
us, and the light grew weird and dim. At last the guides halted
and announced that the --, horses could go no farther
with safety. We were %- dismounted, and picked our
way carefully onward \%%\. over a rough path, hurried

NATIVE HAWAIIAN WOMAN.

on by the encouraging calls of those who had come down earlier
than ourselves, and who were standing on the very verge of
Halemaumau. A moment more, and half led, half dragged by our guides,
we too, were gazing down, down five hundred feet, and there
below us lay the lake of liquid fire, seething and boiling,
and then crusting over as the surface cooled, until our eyes
rested only upon a sheet of blackness, seamed across and along
the edges with lines of light. A few exclamations burst from
the lips of the spectators, but most of us were silent, awed by

"THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE." 137
the tremendous sight. Quietly we watched and watched, as by
degrees the seams of light broadened and broadened, and the
crust here and there broke in, and wave upon wave of fire
rolled up. A moment more and the entire surface of the lake
was once more like molten metal, hissing and surging with a
mighty power, and then it cooled again, and the black crust hid
the flames for a time from view.
It was late at night and pitchy dark when we turned at last
away from this imposing scene. Guided step by step by the
lanterns back to our horses, we remounted and rode in single,
silent file back over that narrow trail. Now we fully realized
what lay below, and what these cracks and crevices close by our
pathway meant. In the darkness, with the few distant stars
above, and the flickering lantern lights below, the road seemed
interminable, the steady tramp, tramp, of guides and horses and
pedestrians alone breaking the stillness as the lava crunched and
crunched beneath their feet. For one, I confess I breathed more
freely when the softer soil, rocky though it was and steep, was
reached and the homeward climb began.
I have taken many a strange ride, on a camel around the
Pyramids in Egypt, on an elephant up to the old palace of Amber
in India, on a wheelbarrow in China, in the early morning
through the jungles by jinrikisha in Ceylon, at midnight by jin
rikisha also in Japan, but no experience I have had will linger
longer in my memory, as wild and weird and impressive, than
that slowly moving procession across Kalauea with the thought.
of the blazing Halemaumau close behind.
Long years ago the natives of Hawaii held that down in the
depths of that fiery crater dwelt the Goddess Pele. They wor
shipped at her shrine with fear and trembling, bringing offerings
to propitiate her, and watching for the shadow of her face as they
gazed awe-struck into the blazing lake that formed her home.
But at last the missionaries of another faith reached these distant
shores, and Queen Kapliolani, one of the earliest converts, deter
mined to give to her people evidence of the sincerity of her
conversion to Christianity by defying the wrath of Pele on the

i38

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

very brink of Halemaumau. Her friends vainly sought to dis
suade her, and vainly, so the story runs, an aged priestess warned
her back with prophecies of destruction. She steadfastly pro
ceeded, followed by a band of eighty trembling fellow converts,
who would have retreated in dismay but for her example and
leadership. To the very edge of the lake of fire she led them,
and there she offered a prayer to Jehovah, the only true God,

FALL OF BOILING LAVA.
and sang a Christian hymn and then turned back, returning to
her home in safety. A profound impression was made upon
her people, and from that time faith in Pele and fear of her
power steadily declined, until now the spire and tower and cross
of the Christian church everywhere supplants the heiau or
heathen temple, even the famous one at Kawaihae, built by
Kamehameha the Great, lying to-day in ruins.

"THE HOUSE OF EVERLASTING FIRE." 139
Under the whole of the island of Hawaii the blazing lava
lies, no one knows how near the surface, while all about the
Volcano House one needs to dig only two feet, or even eighteen
inches, to strike the heat and bring out the sulphurous smoke,
and the lovely little town of Hilo has more than once been
threatened by the fiery flow. But, like Queen Kapliolani, a
Christian people recognize that this is only one of the many
wonders of the great Creator's handiwork, and, while awe-struck
at His power, do not forget or mistrust His mercy. Their
peaceful homes, surrounded by a marvellously luxuriant tropical
verdure, will be remembered by the traveller as long as the
splendors of Halemaumau and the desolation of Kalauea, as
alike preserved and controlled by One who loves His children,
and who understands far better than they can do the mysterious
secrets of the world which He has made to be their earthly
dwelling-place. His they are, and in His guardian care they are
safe in Hawaii as anywhere else on all the globe.
Notwithstanding the thousands of persons who have been
known to have visited the volcano in the past hundred years,
not a single life has been lost, and not an accident has happened.
It is a difficult and tiring expedition, even with the better road
and more comfortable hotel at the journey's end, but any one
who has the strength to take it will feel abundantly repaid for
time and trouble and fatigue, by the great interest and wonder
and sublimity of all that one can see in this trip from Honolulu
of a single week.

IV.

JAPAN REVISITED.
'"THE Hawaiians have a pretty custom,
* copied by foreign residents, of dec
orating their departing friends, as they
go on board the steamer, with lovely lets
or necklaces of bright and fragrant flow
ers, and of maile, the favorite native
fern. We wondered what our friends
at home would have said could they have
/seen us on the deck of the "China," as
mW W';' we set sail from Honolulu for Yokohama,
on August 6, laden with bouquets and
decked with wreath upon wreath of
bishop m'kim. greenness and gorgeousness.
Perhaps the token of affection and
good-will that I most valued came from the girls of the Sisters'
School at St. Andrew's Priory, fifteen of whom brought their
Aloha and a garland, quite four yards long, of the blossoms of
the coral hibiscus from the cathedral close, to adorn me as I bade
them farewell. I had spent many a pleasant half-hour with
them, after Morning Prayer at 7 o'clock in the cathedral, walking
through the shaded cloisters, visiting their dormitories and class
rooms, sharing their breakfast, or enjoying a talk with Sisters
Beatrice and Albertina in their little parlor or in the pretty wel
coming porch, and I was glad to think that they parted from
me, as I parted from them, with regret.
Among the many friends who came to speed us on our way
were the Bishop of Honolulu and Mrs. Willis and their niece,
and through them 1 became acquainted with a party of five
Chinese Christian boys from Iolani College, going under charge
of the father of one of them, who had been teacher of Chinese

JAPAN REVISITED. 141
in the school, to enter our own St. John's College, Shanghai,
where I hope to meet them again before many weeks have
passed. On Sunday the master held service and preached on
deck, in the Chinese language, to a large and attentive congrega
tion, and one of the boys told me there were twenty Christians
among the Chinese and Japanese on board.
We had service in the saloon in English, read the first Sun
day by one of our party, and on the second by the ship's sur
geon, no clergyman being among the passengers. To my
surprise, although the "China" belongs to an American line,
there was a full supply of English Prayer Books and of
"Hymns Ancient and Modern." In reply to my inquiries, I
learned that the " China" was built in Glasgow, and completely
fitted out there, even to this abundant provision for Common
Prayer, and 1 wondered when a like interest in our own land
would lead some generous Churchman to provide an equally
good supply of copies of our own American Prayer Book and
Hymnal for every vessel that goes out from an American port
floating the American flag. I commend the thought to those
who are interested in the Prayer Book Distribution Society.
On Sunday night, August 16, some of us were on deck
watching an exquisitely clear sunset. Just as the last rays of
the setting sun disappeared below the horizon, we exclaimed in
chorus, "Fuji, there is Fuji!" The captain and other of the
ship's officers and passengers came hurrying over to where we
stood, saying it was impossible, we were too far away to see it,
but field-glasses and telescopes proved we were right, for there
was the fair mountain clearly outlined against the rosy light,
although distant from us one hundred and fifty miles. It was a
wonderfully beautiful sight, such as one might approach Japan a
thousand times and not see, and we lingered and watched and
exchanged congratulations over our good fortune until the clos
ing shades of evening hid the last dim shadow of it from our
view. On Monday morning early we awoke to find ourselves in
the harbor of Yokohama, and in good season the steam launch

142

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

from che Grand Hotel came to take us to that comfortable and
attractive house and the pleasant rooms that were ready for us
looking out upon the bay.
Almost immediately on our arrival, I had the pleasure of a
visit from Bishop McKim and Miss Sprague, who had come over
from Tokyo by an early train to meet me and who spent the day
with me, telling me all the news of the mission, and of our mis
sionary circle of friends, scattered during the summer school
vacations among many of the places where we ourselves were
planning to be.

We found the
hama a little less try-
ticipated, tempered
and were able, during
to take a number of
excursions, especially
an hour or so by
kura and the sur-
try. There is to
ous Dia Butsu or
grandly colossal
the open air, sur-
the trees, as calm
the Sphinx of Egypt.

GREAT BUDDHA.

August heat in Yoko-
ing than we had an-
by the sea breeze,
our four days' stay,
jinrikisha rides and
one which involved
I train to Kama-
rounding coun-
be seen the fam-
Great Buddha, a
bronze image in
rounded only by

in its quietude as
It is almost fifty feet in height, and a
man standing upon its clasped hands looks like a mere pigmy.
The guide books say that the temple for the Dia Butsu was
built in 1238 a.d., and that the great image was first made of
wood. In the year 1252 a bronze image was cast, but this was
lost and the present image was cast soon afterward. In August,
1595, the temple was completely destroyed by an inundation
from the sea, since which it has not been rebuilt, and
visitors cannot but hope that it never will be, but that
the Dia Butsu may remain, a relic of old Japan, under the
shelter only of the sky and those green overhanging branches,
while new Japan takes its place among the Christian
nations of the world, and builds its temples in the days

JAPAN REVISITED. 145
to come to Jehovah, the one true God, Father, Son and Holy
Spirit. Another afternoon we had a long ride by a lovely mountain
and seaside road, to Mississippi Bay, where" Commodore Perry
anchored on May 8, 1853, in the memorable visit when he
opened the ports of Japan to Western civilization and inter
course. The country was luxuriant in its midsummer verdure,
kept unfadingly fresh by fre- quent rains and
constant dampness, and the / rice fields especi
ally were of the most vivid o-reen. All along

JAPANESE FARMERS.

the way were the picturesque homes of well-to-do Japanese
farmers and fishermen, with their light interiors overhung by
heavy roofs thatched with rice-straw or a bamboo-like reed,

144 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
on which moss and low lily-leaved plants were thickly growing.
And as our jinrikishas wound around the mountain side, the full
panorama of the bay and of the surrounding landscape lay
spread out in all its attractive detail before us. Certainly the
spring or the fall may be more favorable seasons in which to
come to Japan, but its country places are always beautiful, and
its unique attractions no discomforts of extreme heat or extreme
cold can entirely destroy.
We came on shortly to Nikko, the place of ' 'sunny splendor, "
which, when the sun really shines, never belies its name, but which
is, too often for the traveller, wrapped in a veil of mist and rain.
But who that has been here once would not gladly come again!
I was here three years ago, leaving it sadly and little thinking I
should so soon see once more its varied loveliness and grandeur,
and listen to the delicious sound of its rushing, rapid river.
Here are the noblest shrines in all Japan, the tombs and
temples of the great Shoguns, Iyeyasu, and his grandson ly-
mitsu; here are the long and solemn avenue of cryptomeria
trees; here is the walk by the river side of the hundred stone
Buddhas, placed in serious file along the way one thousand
years ago; here are waterfalls innumerable and lovely; and here
is, best of all, Chusenji, the all-day jinrikisha ride, by the foam
ing river and flashing cascades, up and up the mountain, to the
still and peaceful lake above.
Here in Nikko 1 found also many missionary friends, the
Gardiners, the Woodmans, the Lloyds and Miss Verbeck, and
here I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the new
English Bishop of Osaka and his wife, Mrs. Awdry, formerly
vice-president of the English Girls' Friendly Society. We were
staying for a week at the same hotel, and saw much of each
other, a privilege which came to me immediately through an
introduction from their cousin, Mrs. Willis of Honolulu. Mrs.
Awdry and I had many long talks together regarding the
Conference and Quiet Day which we hope may be arranged
for English and American Churchwomen in London during the
summer of 1S97, and I found her counsel and suggestions most

JAPAN REVISITED. 145
helpful, and her wide acquaintance among women workers of
the English Church full of promise and encouragement. It will
be a busy year abroad, and many plans are being formulated
which will crowd the time to overflowing, but there will be a
place made, we are sure, for these gatherings for mutual
strengthening which the members of our several diocesan con
ference committees of Churchwomen in New York and Penn
sylvania and Massachusetts have had so much at heart during
the past winter, and for which they have already done so much
to prepare. The Sunday services in Nikko are held this year in a neat
though too small room of a Japanese house, at least they were
held there during our stay, that being the third place occupied
since the beginning of the season. Three years ago they were
held in the living room of the house rented by one of our
missionaries, but this year all houses, owned as they are by
Buddhist priests, have been rented with the proviso that no
public Christian services shall be held in them, or on the temple
grounds. This makes the building of a church imperatively
necessary. A lot has been secured and estimates have been
made for a simple but suitable and sufficient structure, which
will cost, exclusive of the price of the land, six hundred yent
or somewhat less than four hundred dollars. One-half the
amount is promised, and the remainder is being raised by the
Sunday offertory and private appeals to those foreigners whose
only Sunday privileges in Nikko are those which our own
American Church has provided for them for several years.
When the church is built, regular services will be held also
in Japanese, and a clergyman will be placed in charge of this
region permanently.

HOLY TRINITY CHURCH, KYOTO. (CONSECRATED MAY 25, 1 898.)

V.
THE POINT OF VIEW.
A MONG the letters received on leaving home were two that I
kept with me and often pondered over during my outward
voyage. One was from a friend who had spent a year in Japan,
and whose lovely Christian character and well-known mission
ary zeal gave weight to her words; the other was from Bishop
Hare, whose two important visits to the same country, and
whose long missionary experience at home as well as abroad —
at the missionary headquarters as foreign secretary, and in the
field as missionary bishop — made his opinion as valuable to me
as that of any one could be.
The first wrote: " I hope that you will revisit Japan, and go
on around the world. If you do, keep your ears open to all that
is said about missionaries and their work. Much of it is untrue
or garbled, but there is a great deal to be learned on the subject
from other points of view besides what we gather from mis
sionary sources. Try to travel this time independently from
missionaries, that you may realize what the masses, Christian or
otherwise, think and say on the subject."
Bishop Hare wrote: "I am very glad you are going.
The more that intelligent people can see of our mission work the
better. We should not be in such a bad financial way now, had
our people assailed the management of our missions less and
tried in quiet ways to improve it more."
The circumstances of my present journey have been such as
to enable me in a measure to carry out the wishes of my first
correspondent, and 1 have followed the advice given so far as to
listen attentively to the criticisms and comments, not a few, to
be heard on every steamer and in every hotel in the East, on the
well-worn missionary topic. But it would be impossible forme
to travel "independently from missionaries." To do so would

148 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
be to deprive myself of the greatest happiness of the trip, and, 1
may add, of its greatest profit. In approaching every port it is my
chief pleasure to look forward to the meeting with old and dear
friends whose lives and work have long been near my heart,
while at each port I leave, my chief regret is in parting not only
from them, but from new ones made while there, who will
never be forgotten, and who will I trust, ever remember me.
That there is, on the surface, some show of reason for more
or less of the unfavorable remarks made upon foreign mission
aries, by other foreign residents and by foreign tourists, I will
not altogether deny. For instance, it is true that, being here in
Japan in mid-summer, I find our schools for boys and girls at
Tsukiji in Tokyo closed, and the neighboring houses deserted,
teachers as well as pupils being away on their vacations. It is
also true that the members of our own mission force, as well as
of those of every other name, are widely scattered, spending these
two hottest months of the year in Nikko, in Karuizawa, in
Hakone, in Arima, in Katsuoji, occupying houses in these differ
ent summer resorts to the exclusion of those who, unable them
selves to find comfortable quarters, complain that these mission
aries are everywhere! Even in the Fujiya Hotel in Miyanoshita,
universally considered the finest in Japan, I found one of the
dearest and best, not only of our missionaries, but of all the mis
sionaries in Japan, Miss Anna Perry, domesticated in the little
corner room at the extreme end of the annex, which has been
hers for six successive summers. May 1 explain that she comes
to it each year, for much-needed rest and refreshment, through
the kindness of friends at home, who every spring send her
money with the strict injunction that it is not to be used for her
work, but for her own personal comfort and pleasure. Those
at home who know what her work is, through its simple " Rec
ord " in the Church [Mission News, and who have read the story
of the conversion through her efforts, of Yone, the drunken jinrik-
isha-man, the terror of Miyanoshita, will perhaps agree that some
missionaries certainly require an occasional holiday, and yet that
in taking it they carry their work with them wherever they may go.

THE POINT OF VIEW. 149
The Fujiya Hotel is in a charmingly picturesque place, perched
high up among the mountains, with the foaming Dogashima
River and the tiny Japanese village of Dogashima far down in
the valley below, to be reached only by chair or kago carried by
coolies. All the surrounding country is charming, too; but if
one happens to be rain-bound there, as we were in September,
the most delightful thing about it seems to be the being able
finally to get away, though it be through manifold perils of
flooded roads and broken bridges and delayed trains, back to'
Yokohama and its harbor, and the sight of ships and steamers
coming and going to and from every part of the world. How
often does the traveller remember that the possibility of leaving
a foreign country at one's will is an important element in the
pleasure of visiting it ? The tourists who express a wish to
spend the remainder of their days in any Eastern land are few in
deed. An earthquake, or a tidal wave, or a week of rain, will
lead them to pronounce Japan unbearable, and to hasten on or
turn their faces homeward with rejoicing. Should they then
grudge the missionaries, who have come to stay, the rest and
change sometime in the course of the year that alone may per
haps make the staying possible ? It is a change within the coun
try, it is well to consider, and the work they have come out to
do and to which they have given their lives, will be done all the
better and all the longer because of it.
But, some one says, after seven years' service the missionaries
have a longer vacation still. They have a year at home. What
domestic missionaries are so well treated ? And how many rec
tors of small parishes there are that would be thankful to fare as
well, not to speak of the comfortable homes provided for them
while in the field !
This is a common comparison. One hears it even before
leaving American shores. The easy life of the foreign mission
ary is contrasted severely with the hard life of the domestic mis
sionary, or with that of the ordinary parish priest, until one
wonders how it is that, in the face of such ease and manifest at
tractions, so very few offer for the foreign field, or respond to

150 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
the urgent and reiterated calls for more laborers to gather in the
harvest across the seas. Surely there is a mistake somewhere!
In their heart of hearts men know that it is a hard thing to sever
life-long ties, to leave home and kindred and country and one's
native language, and go out to an unknown land to do untried ser
vice, among a strange people, speaking a different tongue and hav
ing other ways of thought as well as speech, and a false religion.
When everything is said, the upholder of foreign mis
sions and the believer in foreign missionaries can at least say
this one thing in their behalf: "We belong to a Church that
proclaims its Master's last command and charge to have been,
" Go ye into all the world and preach the Gospel to every crea
ture." These men and women, this handful out of the vast
number who form the Church, are the ones who take the com
mand literally, and go. Their service may be imperfect, they
themselves would very likely be the first to acknowledge that it
is, but they are there, in the distant places of the earth, bearing
witness by their presence to the obedience which is the fruit of
faith, and proving that the Church whose children they are does
not yet dare to disregard utterly the charge, handed on from
generation to generation till the Lord shall come again.
The experience of others may be different from my own,
but I have observed that the adverse criticisms of missionaries
come either from careless, pleasure-loving people, or from those
who are professedly irreligious, belonging, as they say, to
no church. And yet there is an occasional word on the other
side, even from these. This very day I overheard a young man
in the hotel reading-room telling a lady that he had been talking
with a merchant about the missionaries, and he said that he
should always stand up for them, although he did not profess
any religion himself, because of the benefit they were commer
cially. When a treaty-port is opened, he said, the missionary is
the first person to come, every one else is afraid to venture, and
they act as pioneers. It is true they cannot do much good so
far as religion is concerned, because as soon as there is a rush
of population such a lot of evil comes in that it chokes out all

THE POINT OF VIEW. 151
the good, but they are of use commercially all the same, and
ought to be spoken well of.
This may sound like slight praise, but many a man, and
sometimes a woman, will confess that the presence of a mission
ary in a foreign port is the only reminder of home and Sunday
and the Bible and better and holier things, and occasionally even
a careless person will acknowledge that he cannot help respect
ing the missionaries, though he does not like them.
It is not difficult to discover that it is hardly ever the case
that those who criticise know anything at all about the actual
missionary work in the country where they may be. It is not
paraded, and much of it is in the interior, or consists in the hum
drum routine of school-life most uninteresting excepting to those
already interested. Here in Japan I have never heard one critic
quote the opinion of a Christian Japanese, or speak as though
there had ever been the faintest effort made to investigate the
subject from the Christian point of view.
What would a Christian Japanese say? Well here are two
stories, short ones, but sufficient for the purpose, written out
by a lovely woman whom I met when here three years ago. She
and hefhusband were deeply engrossed at that time in an indus
trial school which they had established, which I was taken to
see. It was largely supported by Japanese ladies, who worked
for it in various ways much as their American sisters do for sim
ilar charitable enterprises at home. It promised to be as impor
tant as it already was successful when, less than a year ago,
the building was destroyed by fire, and Mrs. Iwamoto died soon
after, her death being in a measure caused by the shock and
the exposure. She was a woman of marked ability, and a little
volume has lately been published containing some of her writ
ings in English. I give the dates appended, and the first one 1
have copied must have been almost the last, if not the very last,
she ever wrote, as she died on Feburary 10, 1896. It is entitled
BISHOP WILLIAMS AND THE SERVANT GIRL.
Some of you may not know that Bishop Williams is one of
our pioneer missionaries. Although he has lived and taught

LITTLE NURSEMAIDS.

THE POINT OF VIEW. 153
among our people now for more than thirty years, you will be
surprised to find how little he is known, and how seldom he is
talked about. Few people outside of his own circle know why
he goes about in his shiny overcoat and why he would prefer to
live in one of the small dormitory rooms at the Episcopal Sem
inary alone and unattended, except by his man-of-all-work.
They do not know that all his money, except a small part, re
served for his barest needs, goes to gladden hospitals, orphanages
and poverty-stricken native churches. A large handsome church
stands as one of the fruits of his self-denial, and many who come
to worship in it are quite ignorant as to who the donor is.
Some time ago he was boarding in a Japanese house in
Osaka, living on rice, bean soup, radishes, and other kinds of
simple Japanese food, which he said was a very convenient way
of doing. People who saw him come and go pointed at him and
pitied the " poor foreigner."
Well, there was a servant girl in this neighborhood who
knew all about this good Bishop — how he could live in the best
of style if he so desired. She tried to tell the people that they
were altogether mistaken, but they pooh-poohed at her story.
Something happened, however, in the meantime, which
resulted in the triumph of the servant girl. The Taivo, the
largest magazine in Tokyo, published the lives of the three
pioneer missionaries to Japan. Among these Bishop Williams
was included, and his character and life were set forth in their
true light.
It is said that she took the earliest opportunity to buy, out
of her own hard-earned savings, the issue of the magazine con
taining the sketch, and went about circulating it among her
neighbors. (February, iSg6.)
The second story is of a different character, but equally
pertinent to the subject under consideration. It makes one won
der what would be the result if every inheritor of nineteen cen
turies of Christian privilege could only believe as firmly in the
God from whom all light and blessing comes, and realize as

154 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
faithfully as this poor woman "that no man could hurt the Bible
however deeply he might err." Possibly Bishop Hare's remark
might not then be needed: " We should not be in such a bad
financial way now had our people assailed the management of
our missions less and tried in quiet ways to improve it more."
At least we women of the Auxiliary, remembering that it takes
one hundred sen to make a yen, and that the value of ayen is
only a little over a half dollar in gold, may learn a lesson.
FIVE YEN IN FIVE YEARS.
A lone woman was living in a remote out-of-the-way village
in a Miyagi ken. Years ago, when a Christian preaching place
had been opened there, she became a joyful partaker of the liv
ing water, for she discovered how she had been thirsting for it
all her life. To the little gathering of people who came to hear
the Gospel, new attendants were being added one by one, but
alas! a sad occurrence nipped the young church in the bud.
The young preacher fell into sin. It was a grievous offence
of which he was found guilty, and the highly incensed people
would have neither the man nor his religion. It was sad enough
that the preaching-place had to be closed, but it was sadder to
see the believers turn back one by one from the newly-found
religion, either in contempt of the same, or in fear of the mock
ing ungodly. Finally no trace could be found of the thoughtful company
that used to wend their way to the pleasantly lighted preaching-
place except this one old woman, who refused to give up her
God. She somehow believed in her inmost heart that no man
could hurt the Bible, however deeply he might err. She earn
estly entreated her friends to apply once more for a new
preacher. But they only laughed at her credulity and very soon
she found herself slighted and forsaken by every one in the vil
lage. Lonely and poor, she was driven at last to seek a humble
occupation by which she might earn her living in peace. It was
behind the boiler of a public bath house where it was her lonely
duty to feed the fire all day and far into the night.

THE POINT OF VIEW.

155

Living in this way she was almost forgotten by the villagers,
but evidently the sacred flame within her was being kept aglow
from a heavenly source. For, unknown to any one, she was
devoting her solitary years to gathering together a little offering
of love to her Lord. When so much wood was burnt plenty of
red charcoal could be had at all times of the day. She made use
of this charcoal to bake a certain rude kind of cake called koren

SIFTING RICE.

156 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
which she sold to the retailers. A child gets half a dozen
of these cakes for a sen, and selling to the retailers, her profit
must have been as scant as her labor was long.
When she had put away her last earning, which completed
the amount of five yen, she knew that she had been working
just as many years. The sum was put into the hands of a min
ister in Sendai, to be used, the giver pleaded, "in some blessed
cause." It warms up our hearts wonderfully to think how
abundantly, how very abundantly, the dear Lord will bless both
the gift and giver. (October, 1&95.)
This sketch, it will be noticed, was written in the month
when our last United Offering was made. Perhaps it may help
us to turn our attention from the missionary as seen from the
tourist's point of view, to the missionary work as seen from the
convert's point of view. We have this treasure indeed in earthen
vessels, but it is a treasure still — how great a treasure none can
know but those who have sacrificed much to gain it, either for
themselves or others.
If this poor woman, out of her loneliness and penury, could
earn and save five yen in five years for the work of the Lord of
whom she knew so little, what may not we be enabled to do, if
we have the like will, for the same Lord of whom we know so
much ? Let us unite more heartily than ever in our own per
sonal service for Him whose love is our greatest blessing, our
only hope in this life and in the life to come, and give ourselves
and our savings with a loving and generous spirit freely, "in
some blessed cause," believing that the Master will accept our
service and sanctify the gift to the coming and the increase of
that kingdom, His own kingdom, of which there shall be no end.
It is not always money that is needed, sometimes sympathy
is of more value. A gifted Englishwoman, whose acquaintance
I have had the privilege of making here, spoke to me seriously
of the extraordinary, unaccountable effect that the climate of
Japan often has upon the physical and mental health of young
women sent out by the missionary societies of tbe Church of

THE POINT OF VIEW. 157
England. She said that an experienced physician whom she
consulted said to her, " What these young women want is their
mothers," and she was herself convinced that nothing would
help the work more in this direction than to have some lady
of mature years and matured judgment sent out, not to do regu
lar missionary duty in any one place, but to go about from one
to another, cheering and encouraging and counselling, with
authority to order a week's or a month's or even a year's rest
and change if required, and so, in time, avoid a permanent
breakdown — in fact, to mother the missionary sisterhood.
A little of such "mothering" I have myself tried to do in
the course of my journeyings, with sufficient effect to arouse in
my own heart a deeper concern for those who are our substi
tutes at these distant and difficult posts, and a stronger desire to
stir, if possible, to more loving sympathy the hearts of those
who have sent them out here, and who are making large plans
for future offerings, for the training, sending out and support of
new workers, in the same or similar fields. Missionaries should
be well and carefully chosen, fitted so far as may be at home for
the service they are to render, and then generously and wisely
sustained, if the Church looks for large returns and for long and
healthy lives of usefulness from those selected to be her rep
resentatives in heathen lands abroad or in the newer parts of
our own country. First let us see that our own part of the work
is well done, in the training, the sending and the support — then,
and then only, can we form a wise judgment as to results.

NEW BUILDINGS OF ST. PAUL S COLLEGE, TOKYO.

VI.
THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY.
WISITING Japan in August and September, we had varied ex
periences of heat, thunder storms, a few mild earthquakes,
many continuous days of rain, floods, broken bridges, impass
able roads and delayed or discontinued trains; but, as one resi
dent remarked, it was well to see the country under some of its
less favorable aspects, so that we might not think it, like so
many other travellers, altogether an earthly paradise. We man-

'¦¦- ii£r--.

J

T H — ¦ if m -- c *
mm iii. il

ST. PAUL'S COLLEGE AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE.

160 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
aged, however, by means of rail and steamer, jinrikisha, chair
and kago, and once being carried on the backs of coolies, to ac
complish nearly all the expeditions we had planned, and we had
at the last some very beautiful weather, which we enjoyed all
the more by contrast with that which had preceded it.
For ten days we made our headquarters at the Ya-ami Hotel
in Kyoto, delightfully situated up among the hills, and com
manding a glorious western view, and from there explored the
city and surrounding country as far as Uji and Nara, on the one
hand, and Otsu and Lake Biwa on the other.
As in Tokyo, I had already seen the new buildings of St.
Paul's College, the hospital erected on the site of the old
buildings, and the restoration of Trinity Cathedral, so seri
ously injured by the earthquake soon after my former visit,
so in Nara I was glad to see the addition lately made to the
boys' school and property, and in Kyoto the fine brick building
containing the class-rooms and assembly hall, and the Japanese
dormitories and pretty Japanese garden of St. Agnes's School for
Girls. All the schools, I was glad to hear, were last year in a
generally prosperous condition, and promised to open this year
with even larger numbers. It will be remembered that their
management is mainly in the hands of Japanese, as likewise the
Ladies' Institute in Tokyo, where we went one afternoon for
" ceremonial tea."
It was pleasant to meet the principal, Mrs. Ogashima, again,
and also to see Miss Tsuda several times, well known to many
friends in America, and to visit once more the Peeresses' School,
where they both teach, and to talk with them about the progress
of woman's education in Japan, and the future, especially of
their work in the Ladies' Institute, in which many members of
the Woman's Auxiliary have been interested, and which they
have already largely helped.
In going about from place to place in the summer time, we
saw daily the great mass of the common people, among whom
the missionary must chiefly be content to labor. There were
men and women working together in the rice fields and on the

THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY.

161

tea plantations, the farmer in his straw coat and mushroom-'
shaped hat, the multitude of children in the streets, the basket
maker and the basket seller, the mothers and little girls with
babies on their backs, the numbers of women and girls riding in
jinrikishas or kagos, and the still greater number of coolies pull
ing or carrying them. There were bazaars in every direction,
for shoes, for toys, for porcelain, for curios, for fruits and vege
tables, for fish, for cloth, for kimonos, and busy buyers and
sellers, industrious and active as bees or ants or beavers.
This is the pop
ulation reached by
preaching-places in
the city or by out-
stations in the
country, and it is
just because this
class of the com
munity is so labori
ous and so full of
business that often
the congregation
dwindles to a hand
ful, to the discour
agement of the
preacher and the
delay of results de
sired and expected
by givers at home.
Archdeacon Page,
in his article in The Church in Japan for August, refers to the
silk worm as the great disturber of the meetings in the country
districts, and says: "The families with whom he lodges and by
whom, despite his troublesome habits, he is highly valued, must
even get up at all hours during the night to spread his table for
him and supply his ravenous demands. For people in a service
so exacting and all-absorbing, attendance at Church services, or

""VS*

I%$bd&fa&ifgBfifcb0&^

WEIGHING TEA.

1 62 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
any other kind of public meeting, is out of the question. At
least so they say."
Moreover, one sees in all prominent and attractive positions
the Buddhist and the Shinto temple, and priests and pilgrims at
every turn. Each house has its sacred shelf on which are the
household gods and the family ancestral tablets; each garden
has its tiny shrine, guarded by sacred dogs or sacred foxes, and
it is not difficult to believe that there are still millions in Japan
who have, as yet, heard nothing of Christ, and who know
nothing whatever of the Christian religion. And yet some
persons wonder why appropriations must still be made and
increased for missionary work, and imagine that the time is near
when missionaries may be withdrawn and Japan cease to be
considered a missionary field.
Nothing interests me more, under these circumstances, than
the efforts that are being made, however feebly, by the Japanese
Christians themselves for the welfare of others, physical, moral
and spiritual. Here and there a dispensary or an orphanage or
an industrial school is started in a humble way, but with faith
and self-sacrifice, and the earnest devotion of the founder makes
one hopeful that the little enterprise may eventually be blessed
with large success.
Such an orphanage I visited three years ago in Oji, near
Tokyo, under the charge of Mr. Osuga, now in America, learn
ing how best to care for feeble-minded children, of whom many
have happened to come under his sympathetic notice. I saw him
just before leaving New York, and hope that many who have
heard of his beautiful life and labors in the past are now enjoying
the opportunity of meeting him and of hearing from his own
lips the story of what he is trying to do for orphan children in
Japan. One of the pleasantest recollections 1 have of the visit three
years ago is connected with the organization of the Japan Branch
of the Woman's Auxiliary, which may well strive to deserve the
name given to another of our Christian organizations in Japan,
the Widely-Loving Society. It comprises all societies of the

JAPANESE SCHOOL GIRLS,

1 64 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
women and girls in our several schools and congregations,
formed for charitable and Church work, provided some mission
ary work be included in the course of the year, and it is sweet
to hear from many directions how earnestly and in what a truly
loving spirit the effort is being made by the various little bands
to comply with the purpose of the organization. The United
Offering represents to them, in the best and most effective way,
the general missionary work of the Church, and for that they
have saved in the past, and will save in the future; and then
they do other work, for the Oji orphanage, for sufferers by earth
quake or flood, and the pupils of the Ladies' Institute were very
energetic last winter in working for a sale, in which all the
Christian schools of girls in Tokyo united, to help rebuild the
industrial school under the charge of Mr. Iwamoto, destroyed
by the fire which was so soon followed by the death of Mrs.
Iwamoto. I have thought that some of the "widely-loving" sisters in
America, realizing the light and lovely bonds by which we are
all bound together in Christian fellowship and service, would be
interested to read an article written in English by Mrs. Iwamoto
in behalf of the Oji orphanage, and that its appeal would lead
them to take still more interest in Mr. Osuga's visit. I com
mend it especially to officers of the Junior Auxiliary, and to
mothers, who may, perhaps, read it on some Sunday afternoon
to their little ones. It was written in June, 1894, and is called
A VISIT TO THE OJI ORPHANAGE.
Dear children in America, who have heard and read so much
about Japan, especially those of you interested in the Christian
work going on in this country, I should be delighted on this
bright spring morning to take you over to see some children at
the orphanage away in a beautiful suburb of Tokyo. We might
take a train from the Ueno station and then it would be only a
quarter of an hour's ride to Oji, where the orphanage is, but in
stead we will take a few jinrikishas in order to enjoy the fine
morning and country scenery. We go through the pretty Ueno

THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY. 165
Park, overlooking the lotus-covered Shinobozu pond toward our
left. The cherry flowers for which the park is noted have all
been scattered by the wind and the showers, but we see lots of
people, old and young who have chosen their favorite resort for
their holiday-making. I think you will want to stop and look
over the inviting grounds, but for this morning we must leave
the people to enjoy the museum, the scenery from the promen
ade hill, and the little ones to wonder at the big elephant, the
roaring tiger and the birds and everything in a zoological garden,
just as you do in your country, only it will be your surprise that
everything is on a smaller scale. We go through a winding path
between the big cryptomeria trees, out into the country road,
where you pass along some pretty country-seats and peep over
green hedges into clean and spacious temple yards where the
fading wisteria flowers swaying in the breezes, and the pink and
white and red azaleas laying part of their wealth of blossoms on
the ground, remind you that spring is already waning into sum
mer. You look over the rice fields below, toward your right,
all dotted with working men and women, busy sowing seeds for
the autumn harvest. We still go on through green barley fields,
and you notice that the ripening ears look very different from
what you are accustomed to see. They are shorter and thicker;
but look here, these seem natural, don't they ? Why ? Because
we got the seeds from you, and the stalks changing into such
beautiful variegated colors later on in the season, are what we
wonder at.
Well, here we are in Oji, after an hour's ride from Ueno,
and this is another celebrated park on your right. Asukayama,
as it is called, you see is a grass-covered hill gently sloping on
this side, but it is an abrupt bank on the other. Yes, these are
all cherry trees, and they were beautiful a few' weeks ago.
This is a favorite place for the school children coming in troops,
the grass making it convenient for their engaging in various
gymnastic and competitive exercises. Oji, though a little town,
is thrifty on account of its many extensive factories. It was
noted of old only for the Asukayama cherries and a respectable

1 66 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
Inari shrine of which the place boasted, and the growing fac
tories, of course, have given it greater importance. We hope
now that the existence of the Girls' Orphanage may make the
town still more interesting, and dear to the hearts of the people.
This, by the way, is the only orphanage in the capital conducted
by Christians. We pass into the left path from Asukayama, and we are
very soon in sight of the " Kojo-gakuin " gate. We walk a
few paces to the entrance, and while the smiling twelve-year
girl comes out to let us in, we see a lot of tiny wooden clogs,
and some larger ones, arranged on shelves on both sides.
Cunning, aren't they, with their variously colored thongs ? We
are shown into a room, and when we make known our errand,
a young lady teacher comes out to show us around. By the
way, 1 must tell you that she is a graduate from one of the
Christian schools in Tokyo, a daughter of a well-to-do family in
Shikoku, but working by choice in the orphanage. She will
gladly tell us all that we wish to know.
We pass along the veranda and see a number of large
matted rooms with sliding doors and closets. These, we are
told, are the dormitories where the children sleep. See! some
of them are in this room playing, like so many sisters, with
broken pieces of toys and a few shells. "What little ones!"
you say. Yes, the one you now see is the youngest, the baby
of the orphanage, just beginning to run about on her little feet.
She came here when only fifteen days old. Just think of it! I
am sure every little girl belonging to this house must have some
sad story connected with her life. I must tell you about this
little daughter. You see, most of these children came originally
from Gifu and Nagoya, where there was a big destructive earth
quake two years ago last October, and this baby was one of
them. She has a mother living, but she was one of the many
barely snatched from the jaws of death. Somebody managed
to drag her out from the fallen ruins, but her limbs were so
badly crushed that one arm and one leg had to be amputated.
I think she lost the sight of one eye, too. She soon afterward

THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY.

167

gave birth to a wee bit of a baby, and there was very little hope
that she could live; anyway, her best chance was to be sent on
a train to this refuge, along with another baby. She lived, and
has grown to be this healthy, winsome child, rather a pet in the
orphanage. What are the ages of the children ? Why, they range all the
way from this two-year-old-baby to twelve. They have all the
intervening ages. You think some of the short-haired children
look like boys ? Yes, that is what everybody on coming here

V= - 'ffv?

SOME LITTLE PEOPLE IN JAPAN.
thinks. They even ask the~question sometimes, forgetting that
this is a girls' orphanage which they have come to see. The
young lady tells me that they have forty-eight children at present.
One died recently, a poor deformed baby who was not in the
house more than a week or two. That was the first death
inside the orphanage, which opened about three years ago,
though two sisters died of hereditary diseases after being sent
to the hospital. You notice that some of the children look
rather pale just now. They have had typhoid fever on the
place, laying low some twenty children, one by one, and attack-

1 68 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
ing the matrons and trained nurses who, hearing of the distress,
came and offered their free services. Everybody got well, how
ever, excepting a young Christian nurse, who is said to have
been a very promising woman. We go along the covered
veranda, noticing two elderly matrons looking after the younger
children. A class of the older children is in the school-room,
which we shall enter by and by.
We are now led into a little chapel where the inmates of
the building meet for the worship of the one loving Father, who
looks down upon His children in both continents. I must not
omit telling you about this sacred little meeting place, for a lovely
little story is connected with it.
There are a brother and sister living in the mountainous
district Koshu, the children of well-to-do parents, and leading a
life full of noble Christian impulses. Living rather a secluded
life in the old but small village, it is their chief delight when not
visiting the capital, to read the religious and literary books and
periodicals sent over to them. One Sunday they were reading
together, in a paper they regularly receive, an appeal for the
needs of this same orphanage, calling upon young Christians to
deny themselves, in order to assist in its work of mercy. Both
brother and sister were moved to tears, and each had made a
similar resolution without telling the other. This they found
out when the sister carried to her brother's room a bundle of
things she wished to contribute, and found him weighing a
massive gold chain, his father's present, in order to find out how
much he would be able to help the orphanage by contributing
his treasure. It must have been a happy moment for both of
them when they heard what the other intended to do.
Well, the precious parcel came to Mr. Osuga, the head of
this place, and the sister's contribution consisted of her brocaded
sash, crape under-dresses, watch chain, corals, tortoise shells,
etc. The mother, not yet a Christian, added five yen to her chil
dren's gift. When Mr. Osuga was told the story of the gift, he
was so much moved with it, that he had no heart to use the
contribution along with the funds for the common support. So

CHAPEL OF THE OJI ORPHANAGE.

170 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
the proceeds from selling the articles, together with other con
tributions added to it for this purpose, were used in building this
dear little house of worship. I cannot help telling you just here
that the sister in this little story is one of the loveliest characters
1 have ever known; that it is a joy for anybody to know her, and
that this one incident is one of many, many quieter and unheard-
of deeds of mercy she is constantly engaged in.
We go back now to the school-room, which has two apart
ments. The windows, seats and other belongings are like any
other you might see in a common village school. Quite a large
part of one room is taken up by the seats of the kindergarten chil
dren, for you remember that there are many children here who
are not able yet to learn from books. The young lady who is
our guide to-day takes charge of the infant class, and she finds
much pleasure in training her pupils. How bright and attentive
the children are! Yes they are the oldest ones, some studying,
I think, their readers, others diligently using their slates. If you
could see these girls with the babies, it would make you wonder
how they can be so tender and mother-like to their little sisters.
But let us go and see what their little hands engage in after
their lessons are finished, and they have had their tiffin. First,
they take a little recreation, playing with balls and jackstones and
racing each other in the yard, just like any other children, but
very soon they must go back to their duties, for they have a
great deal to go through with before night comes on. We pass
another long corridor, and here we see quite a large apartment,
where there are long, narrow boards, some packages of paper,
signs of worsted work and flower-making. There, in a big glass
closet, are exhibited the fruits of their daily labor in the way of
envelopes, rolls of letter-paper, hoods, bags, wristlets, etc., made
of worsted work. In another room you see just now a shelf of
young silk-worms, feeding on the tender mulberry leaves. They
are also fed and cared for by the children's busy hands. The
children, with the help of the matrons and teachers, make quite
a considerable profit every month in these little ways, the letter-
paper and envelopes, especially, being much used by their

MAKING ENVELOPES AT THE OJI ORPHANAGE.

172 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
friends. Besides these duties, the girls have to help in the
kitchen work, in washing, and in the daily and weekly house-
cleaning, but a lot of happier and more contented girls could
hardly be found anywhere else.
In coming back from this department, we pass Mr. Osuga's
apartment, and the first thing you notice is a little frame hung
up, telling you that tins neat little sanctum is a gift from his
friends. Our friend himself is not at home to-day, having been
sent on a week's trip by his brother, to get a little rest and
strength. If he were at home, you would be made acquainted
with a pale, but noble-faced young man who has given up all
his private possessions for the benefit of the unfortunate chil
dren, providing the building and grounds, and who has been
sharing their fortunes in every way. A . peep into his book
shelves shows us that he has in store some big and learned
books, works on education and methods of teaching, books of
poetry, collections of sermons, Robertson's and Phillips Brooks's
- — of the latter's writings, particularly, 1 have heard him talk
with much warmth of feeling. You would find him very quiet
and retiring, not willing to say much to anybody except when
he is talking on educational and religious subjects, if you
should come here early in the morning, you would find him up
with the best, helping in the work of clearing up, or else he
would be out in the yard cutting fuel; and if you should look in
late at night, you might find him taking his turn at the night-
watch, perhaps with a book of Keble's poems in his hand.
There is among the larger girls a half-imbecile, to whose
training he specially devotes himself, and it would make any
body cry to listen to the story of the pains he takes. His cares
are, indeed, hard and many. Very often he is in want of money
to get necessary things for the children, both in sickness and in
health. His assistants are faithful, but their number is not suffi
cient for the various demands of the children, and so he takes a
great deal upon himself. The result is that his naturally deli
cate health suffers, which is a constant sorrow to his friends.
The children are much attached to their "tosama" (father), and

THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY. 173
rather than disappoint those waiting for his return with the usual
simple fare on the table, he would go back hungry a long way.
Well, if we wait until the children's tiffin hour, we shall see
them sitting down to their frugal repast in this dining-room.
Everybody, down to the youngest, will sit with folded hands
waiting patiently for "tosama " or this lady teacher to come and
ask the blessing, and then they begin enjoying their fare of rice
and vegetables. We thank the lady now, and bid farewell to
the children, and then, taking a look over the lot laid out in a
few vegetable fields and mulberry shrubs, we walk out to find
our jinrikishas ready to take us back.
I have been thinking that it would be a nice work for some
of your mission bands to take up one of these orphan girls to be
your own protege. It takes less than two dollars, at the pres
ent rate of exchange, to give her full support for a month in this
institution, where she will learn to lead a useful Christian life
without ungodly relatives ever laying any claim to her through
life. Or if you would rather not undertake so much, you could
make some little contribution any time you choose. A lady's
society has taken up O-Yasu, the youngest, and another girl is
supported in the same way.
Now, may I ask whether you are pleased with your morn
ing's work? I am sure I enjoyed chaperoning you around.
Another morning you could, if you like, come and see me at my
own quiet home, and take a friendly cup of tea.
I have quoted thus liberally in this, and my last letter, from
Mrs. Iwamoto's writings to show the stamp of Christian woman
hood we are so anxious to see developed in Japan. The purpose
of our schools for girls, and of all our mission work for women
in that country, is to make them faithful and loving followers of
Christ, trusting in Him alone for salvation, and living for others
in accordance with His example. There may be few, as yet, so
gifted as to be able to express intelligently and clearly in a for
eign tongue those Christian ideas and purposes that bridge the
gulf between peoples of different countries, so that they are no

MISS ALDRICH AND FIRST GRADUATES OF LADIES' INSTITUTE.

THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY.

'75

more "foreigners" to each other, but each one who can do
that, whether English or American on the one hand, or Japanese
or Chinese on the other, is doing a work that we hardly know
how sufficiently to estimate. Each one is an example and an
encouragement, and it is to multiply the number that such or
ganizations as the Woman's Auxiliary at home or in China or
Japan, or the Widely-Loving Society exist. To train Christian
women to become Christian workers in the Church of Christ,
and to bring up the children of the Church to a like aim and
purpose, fitting them to fill our places more perfectly and
more worthily than we have succeeded in filling them,
should be our chief desire in whatever line of service we
are called upon to undertake. We see an
enormous field before us to be occupied
and cultivated. Our own powers are
feeble, our own lives short, but if we may
be permitted to inspire and direct a new
force of laborers to enter upon the' task to
which we feel ourselves unequal, and do
something to prepare them for their labors,
we shall not altogether have failed.
Just on the eve of leaving Japan, I re
ceived a letter from Miss Tsuda, accom
panied by Bishop McKim's endorsement.
Often we hear the criticism that the mission
aries reach only the lower classes of the people of the lands to
which they go. The Ladies' Institute in Tokyo was founded
under Miss Aldrich, its first principal, to meet this criticism,
and to train, as far as may be, devoted Christian women for
Japan. €My dear Mrs. Twing:
I write to you to-day to ask of you a great favor, and that
is : Will you, through your letters and your friends, let the ladies
in America, especially those directly interested in the work,
know something of the present condition of the school in Ban
Cho, under our mission, which is in the charge of Mrs. Oga-
shima? I think it is due to this lady, who has worked so hard for

MISS TSUDA.

176 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
it, that more about the school be known, and since you are here
in Japan, and have lately visited it, I feel that you would be the
very one to help me. For some time I have felt that I would
like to write about it, not so much to ask for anything special,
but simply wishing that what has been done, and is being done,
should be more widely known among those who have helped
to establish and support the work, for I feel that they would
take a greater interest in it, and would desire to help Mrs.
Ogashima out in her plans.
As you know, Mrs. Ogashima took charge of the school
nearly three years ago. At that time there were but two or three
scholars, and since it has been in her hands, it' has grown until
at present there are twelve boarders and over thirty day scholars.
The school building is small, and there is barely room enough
for the present number, much less is it capable of accommodat
ing more. I think the ladies in America would like to know more of
Mrs. Ogashima, and her efforts for the school, and I should
like to tell you about her especially. She was born and brought
up in a family of distinction and fortune, knowing hardly any
want or care in her youth, but early in her career she has met
with more than one might think her share of trouble in this life.
Her husband died a few years ago, after many years of sickness,
leaving with her two children in delicate health, the care and
support of whom fall on her. She has occupied the position of
teacher of French in the Peeresses' School, and she is eminently
fitted to deal with young ladies of the upper classes. In spite
of her busy life, spent in teaching, and in the care of her sick
children, she has taken charge of the Sei Huijogakko, because
she felt that the efforts of missionaries for the uplifting of
Japanese women should be warmly responded to by Japanese,
and also because she is herself anxious to take part in the Chris
tian education of women. The school has steadily grown, and
all its pupils are noted for their gracious manner, polite beha
vior and good breeding, the lack of which in so many mission
schools has caused a most unfortunate prejudice against the new
education, as spoiling the manners of our Japanese girls; and,
in truth, many of the graduates of the new schools have lost
the gracious manner and polish which is eminently a distinctive
trait of the women of old Japan, however they may be lacking
in book learning. Of course, it is impossible for American
ladies to teach our Japanese girls Japanese etiquette; and such
women as Mrs. Ogashima, who understands both sides, are in-

THE WIDELY-LOVING SOCIETY.

'77

valuable at this time of change. The marked exception in the
Sei Huijogakko to other schools is due entirely to Mrs. Ogashima.
Mrs. Ogashima is a great worker in charities and benevo
lent work for women, and she has made it a special duty of the
students that they interest themselves in such works. The
orphan asylum at Oji, under Mr. Osuga, is one of the objects
for which the pupils have been incited to work, and they have
always shown a deep interest in it.
Not long ago, a native Christian
school for girls in Tokyo lost all its
buildings and dormitories by a great fire.
This summer a bazaar was held for the
rebuilding fund started by the pupils of
that school, assisted by the various girls'
schools in Tokyo. Two thousand yen
were raised by this, and conspicuous
among the workers were the pupils of
the Sei Huijogakko, who worked en
thusiastically for this, using all their
leisure moments in making fancy articles
for the sale to help this sister school.
All that Mrs. Ogashima has done,
and is doing for the school has been a
labor of love, indeed, for the finances of
the school have been such that Mrs.
Ogashima has often had to make sacri
fices for it, the salary she receives
from this work being almost
nominal. This past year, a large piece
of ground next to the school,
with a convenient house at
tached, was offered for sale, and
Mrs. Ogashima was very anxious
to procure the house for the boarding pupils, and to have the
ground for building new class rooms and an assembly room, as
the present quarters are too small for the school. The grounds
are very convenient to the present building, and the price 6,500
yen, considered very reasonable. The purchase was finally
made in this way: 3,000 yen was already in the hands of the
Bishop, and of the 3,500 yen remaining the owner of the place
presented the value of the house, 500 yen, as a contribution to
the school. Mrs. Baylies, of New York, being at that time in

MRS. OGASHIMA.

178 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
Japan, and hearing of this chance, which Mrs. Ogashima felt
would greatly benefit the school for all time, and knowing the
financial difficulty, came forward and made a generous gift of
500 yen toward the fund. The remaining 2,500 yen was paid by
a loan. The interest of this was arranged to be paid, one-half
by the school, and one-half by Mrs. Ogashima, as the house was
to be used jointly by her and the boarding pupils instead of their
old dormitory. The finances of the school have not always al
lowed this arrangement to be carried out, and Mrs. Ogashima
has frequently paid the whole interest herself as the rent for her
share of the house. I have often thought that considering she
supervises the pupils herself, she ought not to have to pay rent
for staying there, even the one-half of the amount that she desires
to pay. Mrs. Ogashima feels, however, that since she has
undertaken the work, she will not give it up under any circum
stances at present.
It has been lately proposed that the back portion of the lot
belonging to the house be sold, and I have heard that there is a
probable purchaser. In that case, the greater part of the 2,500
yen would be paid, and Mrs. Ogashima be freed from any part
in it. This is greatly to be desired.
Mrs. Ogashima has many plans for building an assembly
room and more class-rooms, as the present building is not suffi
cient, and cannot accommodate any more; besides, it is far
from being suitable for a school, as it was built, I believe, origi
nally for a teacher's home. About two thousand dollars toward
this would be a very great help, and would put the school in
comfortable circumstances. Would it be possible to raise such
a sum in America ?
It is, as you know, my special desire that Christianity should
touch the upper classes more. As this school was originally
designed for the daughters of the middle and upper classes, it is
fortunate that we have a Christian lady of Mrs. Ogashima's ac
complishments and ability there at its head. The school is cer
tainly reaching a good class of students, and prospering greatly.
I am anxious that something should be done to make it easier
for her, and to develop the possibilities which I believe exist
there. I do not know if I have made the matter clear to you, even
in this long letter, but I think you understand about my feeling.
I believe if only the facts were known more widely, the found
ers of the school would do anything to help Mrs. Ogashima in
her work, and to keep her there. They would, too, appreciate

LADIES INSTITUTE, TOKYO.

i8o

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

all the sacrifices she has made for the good of the school. May
I ask you if you will help to make the matter known ?
Hoping you are enjoying your visit to Japan, and that I may
see you again before long, I am sincerely yours, Ume Tsuda.
26 Hinio Ni Ban Cho, Tokyo, Japan, September 7, 1896.
I must add my thanks to Miss Tsuda for the very clear
statement of the work that Mrs. Ogashima is doing so well at
the cost of much self-sacrifice. The special need of the school
at present is a building for assembly and class-rooms. The
financial distress of the Board of Missions is the only reason
that has deterred me from making an urgent appeal for this
school. If you can do anything to arouse individual interest and
assistance, I shall be deeply grateful. The sum needed is $2,500
gold. John McKim, Bishop of Tokyo.

FACULTY OF ST. AGNES SCHOOL, KYOTO.

VII.

BISHOP GRAVES.

CHINA REVISITED.
\A/E left Kobe at midnight on Sep-
¦ tember 29, by the "Empress of
China," after meeting again there, and in
. Osaka, many dear missionary friends,
I old and new, the Pages, the Lanings, the
1 Pattons, Mr. Gardiner, Bishop McKim,
.;.; Bishop Williams, and Bishop and Mrs.
Awdry. It was a pleasure to see them
for ever so short a time, and a matter of
regret that the time must necessarily be
so short.. A beautiful day among the islands
of the Inland Sea, and another on the
green hills of the picturesque port of
Nagasaki, followed by one more only of ocean voyaging,
brought us to the yellow waters and low-lying banks of the
Woo Sung River, and then we were speedily on the Shanghai
Bund, and settled fpr a couple of days only at the Astor House
on the American part of the Foreign Concession.
Here we'had the great pleasure and privilege of being with
Bishop and Mrs. Schereschewsky, and of seeing for ourselves the
wonderful and nearly completed work that has so closely occupied
the former during the past seven or eight years. There were
the piles of closely printed pages in Romanized character, done
with one finger on the type-writer before leaving America, and
there were the larger piles of book after book reproduced in the
Chinese character by copyists, under his direction, in the single
year that has elapsed since his return to Shanghai. The entire
Bible in Wen-li, the classical Chinese which can be read by
every person in all the Provinces of China, who can read at all,

NEW BUILDINGS OF ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, SHANGHAI.

CHINA REVISITED.

183

and by all the Japanese and Coreans who can read Chinese, is
now ready for the press, save for the last revision, which the
Bishop desires to give to it with some accomplished Chinese

«* JfcPN.

Af''-

V

BISHOP SCHERESCHEWSKY.

1 84 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
scholar, that it may be as perfect a translation as is possible. So
beautifully is the present manuscript copied that it is hard to be
lieve it is not already in print, and one looks upon the work with
a certain degree of awe and veneration, thinking of the difficulty
under which it has been accomplished, and of the almost super
human energy and perseverance that has carried through the
self-imposed task. Not the least interesting part of the story is
the fact that one of the three copyists employed was a Chinese
woman, educated as a girl in our mission school, the several
books shown as her work being considered as well done as any
of the rest.
Sunday in Shanghai was a very happy day, for I spent it at
St. John's, riding out in the early morning by jinrikisha with
Bishop Schereschewsky, who never fails to take the five-mile trip
every Sunday to attend service in the college chapel. The day
was as warm as many of our own home days often are early in
October, and the mission compound was looking as lovely as I
well remembered it in May three years ago. The grass and trees
were still a vivid green, and the ivy on the chapel was only
more luxuriant, the whole making so charming a picture that 1
did not at all wonder to hear that it is often called the prettiest
spot in all China.
Aside from the natural beauties so carefully preserved and
cherished, there was the great interest of seeing the three fine
new buildings erected since my last visit, St. John's College, the
Training School for Bible Women, and the Deaconess House, as
we have been accustomed to call it at home, out here called the
Ladies' House, being the residence of the unmarried foreign
women missionaries. These are all worthy of the highest
praise, exciting admiration by their solidity and thorough con
struction, and by their manifest adaptability for the purposes for
which they were designed. Nowhere in any of our own mis
sions, or in any other missions that I have visited, have I seen
better or more substantial buildings than these. They are in
every way most creditable and satisfactory, and those generous
givers who have had a part in their erection may feel that they ,

CHINA REVISITED.

185

would have good reason to be proud of them could they, too,
have the opportunity of seeing them with their own eyes.
Although Mr. and Mrs. Smalley, who so kindly welcomed
me to their home when I was here before, were away in America
on their vacation, I had the pleasure of meeting all the other
missionaries of the compound, Bishop and Mrs. Graves, Mr.
and Mrs. Pott, Mr. and Mrs. Cooper, Mr. and Mrs. Rees, Miss

TRAINING SCHOOL FOR BIBLE WOMEN.

Dodson and Miss Crummer, and of talking with them about all
the branches of the work, and joining with them in the morn
ing and evening services of the day, both English and Chinese.
At the Chinese services the chapel was completely filled with
the boys from the college, the girls from St. Mary's School and
the older little ones from the orphanage, all looking so neat and

1 86 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
bright and happy, and uniting so heartily in the responses and
the singing. I had the advantage here, that I could not have in
Japan, of seeing the work of the mission in full operation,
pupils and teachers alike having returned from their vacations,
and all the machinery of the year being again in complete run
ning order.
But our stay in Shanghai was necessarily brief, and we
were forced to decline a tempting invitation .to join Bishop
Graves on an expedition up the Yang-tse-kiang to Hankow,
Wuchang, Ichang and the Gorges, for our plans for this visit to
China included a trip to Peking and the Great Wall, and we had
not the time for both.
Going north through the Yellow Sea and the Gulf of Pe-
Chi-li by steamer to the Taku Forts at the mouth of the Peiho
River, we went into much colder weather, the mercury falling
from 850 to as low as 500, though it stood for most of the
month at about 6o°.
At Chefoo we had several hours on shore, and I was glad
to see the place where our mission has had its sanitarium for
many years, and also to have time to pay a visit to Mrs. Nevius,
widow of the late Dr. Nevius, so long a well-known missionary
of the Presbyterian Board, and brother of our own Dr. Nevius,
veteran missionary on the Pacific coast, and pioneer as far as to
Juneau in Alaska.
In making this call we had the unexpected pleasure of meet
ing Mrs. Scott, wife of the Bishop of North China, to whom a
friend had given me a letter of introduction, who was staying
with Mrs. Nevius while her husband was absent for a short time
is Corea, and I was the more glad of the opportunity, on finding
that we should just miss them both at Tientsin and Peking, as
they would return home just as we were leaving.
At Taku Forts we took the train to Tientsin, an hour and a
half away, feeling much interest in actually travelling by rail in
China, and imagining the difference it would make when the
road should be completed to Peking, and connected with other
coming roads, especially to Hankow and the Yang-tse.

HOW BIBLE WOMEN TRAVEL IN CHINA.

1 88 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
Tientsin is considered the second-best of the treaty ports,
the first being Shanghai. It has a fine bund and many substan
tial buildings, and it is an important missionary centre, though
not one where we have ever had work ourselves. Several of
the Presbyterian and Methodist missionaries kindly called upon
us at the hotel and invited us to their homes, and we were much
interested in attending a United Missionary Service which gave
us an excellent idea of the extent of the force employed in con
nection with the different missionary boards.
Coming back to China after three years' absence, one notices
first the familiar Chinese sights, and then others less familiar or
nearly forgotten. The tiled roofs of the houses, the pagodas,
the stone bridges, the native dress, especially of a mandarin; the
wheel-barrow, unlike our own — consisting of a single wheel
with a shelf on either side laden with perhaps four hundred
pounds as an ordinary load for a coolie; the narrow streets, and
above all the ideographs, making, to unaccustomed eyes, a deco
ration for every poor little shop or ugly wall.
When we see flaming advertisements in large letters on
fences and walls and buildings at home, we are annoyed at the
sight, and if they are in an otherwise lovely place we say that
they spoil the view; but there is something in the shape of the
Chinese character that seems to us artistic, and no doubt it is.
The long, hanging, swinging signs, in black and gold hiero
glyphics at the shop doors, and the curious, ever-varying mark
in the circle on the back of the coolies' blue garment, here as in
Japan never fail to awaken interest and give a degree of pleasure.
Nothing perhaps is noticed sooner or remembered longer in
either country than these same strange, perplexing decorative
ideographs. In Northern China we saw more frequently than I had ob
served elsewhere, the custom the men have, above the very
lowest class, of making pets of birds of different kinds, the
thrush, the Java sparrow, the red-throated linnet, and now and
then a canary, and of taking them out for a walk toward eve
ning, as a gentleman would take out his dog at home. Some

CHINA REVISITED.

189

carry one or more in a cage, the number indicating increasing
respectability or wealth on the part of the owner, others have
only a single pet on a tiny wooden bent stick for a perch, tied
with a slender string by the foot, so that it may fly for a short
distance in the open air without danger of escape. We saw no
free birds, except a few magpies, but they seemed contented
with their lot and were evidently prized possessions, exhibited
to each other by their grave and sober masters and given their
daily airing with a real pleasure, a number of friends often walk
ing out together or sitting together in a field or beside the road
enjoying their birds and admiring them to their hearts' content.
Chinese wedding and funeral processions make a constant
and important feature in the street life— much alike so far as the

ST. MARY S HALL, SHANGHAI.

190

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

bands of music and attending numbers go, but differing in the pre
dominating color, white being in China the proper hue for mourn
ing, as red is for rejoicing. The bride, carried along in her red sedan
chair to the house of the bridegroom, her bridal presents follow-
 ing> ar,d the gay adorn-
*_4W*ll ments of the house of
festivity, always naturally
attract attention; and no
less do the accompani
ments of a burial, with the
empty chair carried in
front of the coffin for the
use of the departed spirit,
or the white rooster into
which the spirit is sup
posed to have entered and
which is to be killed at
the grave to free it from
its temporary imprison
ment. As none of the women
in China wear any cover
ing upon the head, the
various styles of hair-
dressing in different parts
of the country, with silver
and jade and artificial
flower ornaments, are nat
urally much observed by
a foreign visitor, while a foreign resident will quickly tell whether
it is a Manchu or Shanghai or Cantonese woman by a glance at
the glossy bands and braids so well-oiled and so carefully ar
ranged. Everywhere, whether among business men or missionaries,
we heard a like testimony that the passing years bring about no
better or kindlier feeling on the part of the Chinese toward for-

A GIRL OF ST. MARY S.

CHINA REVISITED.

191

eigners. " Asia for the Asiatics " seems to be as much their se
cret determination as it is now affirmed to be the openly avowed
feeling of the Japanese. Nevertheless, Europeans seem not to
have the slightest intention of yielding to this determination or
this feeling, especially as they have learned by the late war that
the army and navy of China need not be feared. It is well
known now that many of the Chinese troops existed only in
imagination, and that others were armed only with bows and
arrows, and, as one foreigner slightingly remarked, "they never
fought at all, they only ran away."
Foreigners appear also to be universally incredulous as to
any particular result to be expected from Li Hung Chang's visits
abroad. They say that the Chinese think he was banished as a
punishment for letting their armies be defeated, and that it is
more than doubtful whether the Emperor will receive favorably

NEW SUMMER HOUSE, ST. MARY'S ORPHANAGE, SHANGHAI.

192 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
any propositions he may be inclined to make that involve change
in the country. Time will show how that may be, but the very
incredulity on the part of those who have lived here longest
shows in what a groove they believe the Chinese race to be fixed,
and how little they anticipate any alteration that is not brought
about by outside powers.
Some of the latest books on China are extremely interesting
and instructive to read in this connection, "Chinese Character
istics," by Arthur H. Smith; Norman's " Peoples and Politics of
the Far East," and "Society in China," by Prof. Douglas. The
reader travelling through the land may not always agree, but the
problems presented must be carefully weighed and considered,
and in most instances the outside observer will be wise enough
to leave others of longer experience to draw the final conclusions.
As for the missionary work, the best and most honored mis
sionaries agree that it is not their place to be looking for results,
or to be faint-hearted if they are forced to acknowledge that they
are comparatively few. The Duke of Wellington's reply,
" Look to your marching orders," seems to them sufficient as an ¦
answer to all thoughtless and unintelligent criticism, and they '
are willing to do their part in the difficult daily ploughing of the
soil and sowing of the seed, fully believing that some day some
one]_coming after them will reap an abundant harvest.

VIIL

THE IMPERIAL CITY.
JT is a very wonderful thing to leave a
land of railroads and steamboats, of
gas and electricity, of furnaces and steam
heat, and all the other comforts and con
veniences of modern times, and come
away to a country where all these things
are unknown, and where life moves on
after the same fashion as it did centuries
before that land was discovered or
dreamed of. One may feel something
of what it is like in Egypt or in Syria,
but now that a railroad runs from Jaffa
to Jerusalem, and all the luxuries of
European civilization can be found in
Cairo, one must go to other and more
distant lands to know exactly how it
seems. I remember standing one morning, a
number of years ago, at the window of
the breakfast room of the " Cave of the
Winds," the hospitable home of the late Bishop of Quebec, when
the Bishop came and stood by my side and said: "Mrs. Twing,
can you realize that there is no civilization now between you and
the North Pole?' ' The sensation of that moment has, I think, never
since been repeated until I stood on the Great Wall of China, in
one of its watch-towers perched on a mountain peak two thou
sand feet above the sea, and looked down upon a hundred simi
lar peaks below and off into the far distance toward Mongolia,
sixty miles away. Winding along in each direction, on the top
most summits of the mountains, stretched the Great Wall, as

A MANDARIN.

GREAT WALL OF CHINA.

THE IMPERIAL CITY. 195
mighty a monument of human power and pride as the Pyramids
of Egypt, built two hundred years before the Christian era,
fourteen hundred miles in extent, as long as our whole Atlantic
or Pacific coast line, or as far as from New York to Omaha. It
is said there are bricks enough in the wall to rebuild all the
houses in Great Britain. It was a marvellous sight, one that
those who have stood upon the walls of York or Chester, and
thought of the history of the past two thousand years may per
haps imagine, only without the sublimity of the setting to the
scene. But marvellous as it was, the journey thither was of even
intenser interest.
We had come from Peking by a long day's ride, starting in
the early morning and arriving at a Chinese inn in the Nan-k'ou
Pass long after night-fall. We were a party of five ladies and
two gentlemen, with our three Chinese servants and twelve
mafoos or muleteers; and we travelled in true Oriental style
with a cavalcade of six mule litters — sedan chairs slung between
two poles, each carried by two mules, one before and one be
hind — two Peking carts, not unlike miniature emigrant wagons;
each drawn by two mules, and three donkeys with strings of
bells and velvet trappings, which the gentlemen and the Chinese
boys took turns in riding according as the former desired a
change from cart or mule litter or not.
From the time we left the crowded streets of the city and
began to cross the plains, we began to meet the ceaseless tide of
commerce pouring in, or to pass like streams of traffic moving
slowly toward the north. There were flocks upon flocks of
sheep with Syrian faces, often filling the road like a river, and
shepherds like those of Syria going before; there were droves of
black pigs with the swineherd following with his long-lashed
whip; there were strings of patient, steady, heavily-laden
mules, led along any narrow way by the skilled muleteers; and
there were, always and everywhere and most fascinating of all,
the long lines of splendid camels, so different from those of
Egypt, with their warm brown coats, their noble bearing, their

196 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
stately step and their ever appealing and protesting eyes. All,
as well as ourselves, moved with the same slow, even, un
changing gait, "without haste, without rest," never pausing
till the noon-tide or the evening brought repose, never breaking
into anything faster than the regular tread, tread, tread, of man
and beast, accustomed as it seemed to pace on thus across these

NAN-K OU PASS.

THE IMPERIAL CITY.

'97

great stretches of plain forever. Now and then a lively little donkey
would start up on rather a brisk and cheerful trot, its bells jing
ling out more merrily upon the air, but generally the single bell
on one mule or camel out of each separate line would make the
more monotonous music of the procession in perfect accord with
the stillness and impressiveness of the onward moving caravan.
Great numbers of the mules and donkeys were laden with
bundles of long millet stalks for fuel, so immense that often

COURTYARD OF A CHINESE INN.

nothing would be seen of the donkey but four slender legs be
low, two bright eyes and a point of a nose in front, and a tail
behind. The camels carried huge bales of camels' hair from
Mongolia to be shipped to London or New York, packages of
hand-pressed brown paper, made from bamboo or the bark of a
certain kind of tree in Manchuria to be largely used in China, and

198 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
boxes of "brick tea" from the great tea hongs of Hankow,
shipped from Chin kiang by the Grand Canal to Tientsin, and
bound for Russia by the way of Kiachta. Sometimes a load of
vegetables would go by, sometimes a load of coarse pottery,
once even a load of bars of silver sealed at either end. Often we
would see more Peking carts containing the people of the place,
men, women and children, and occasionally we would pass
through the narrow street of a Chinese village or across the
scanty and barren farm lands of this section of Northern China.
We spent our first night at the Nan-k'ou inn, and our
second night there also, making the visit to the Great Wall and
the return thus far on the second day. On the morning of the
third day, instead of further retracing our steps, we went across
the country, through a beautiful fertile valley extensively culti
vated, to see the famous Ming Tombs, the resting places so richly
adorned of thirteen emperors of the great Ming dynasty. They
are arranged in a semi-circle of such extent that not more than
half of them can be counted at one time; but to see one and
the largest and finest is sufficient, as they are all of the same
style and type. For truly artistic decoration they cannot com
pare with the tombs of the Shoguns at Shiba and Nikko, but
there is a massiveness and grandeur about them, and a dignity
of situation, which even those cannot surpass.
Peking is a city of walls. There is the Great Wall, best
known and most memorable; there are the ruins of the Old
Wall built around the city of old Peking, and there are the three
walls built around the three sections of the present city, the
Chinese section, the Tartar section, and the Imperial City proper,
where the Emperor dwells, and into which no foreigner may
enter. We looked down upon the yellow-tiled roofs of the
imperial palaces and temples from the city wall near the Foreign
Legations, looking long, as that was the nearest view to be ob
tained, and then we gazed with deepest interest on the Temple
of Heaven in one direction, and the Temple of Earth in another,
to each of which the Emperor goes annually to worship in behalf
of his people, and we gazed with deeper interest still on the

THE IMPERIAL CITY.

199

unexpected beauty of the city, with its innumerable shade trees
and its setting of distant hills, so extraordinary when contrasted
with the dirt and ugliness as seen when riding through the
streets below.
The streets of Peking are very wide, as contrasted with
those of more southern Chinese cities, but to European and
American eyes, used to cleanliness and order, there is but little
attractiveness anywhere, save within the walls of a legation or
missionary compound. There is no such
well-kept Foreign Concession as in Shang
hai, Tientsin or Hankow, with bund and
fine buildings and good roads for driving
or riding, so these home-like residences,
with surrounding gardens and shrubbery,
gay with the little red China rose which
blossoms nearly every month in the year,
seem like one cheering oasis after another,
in the midst of an otherwise dreary desert
land. The observatory is an interesting place
to visit, with another fine and sufficiently
distant view of the city, and with its splen
did bronze instruments, some of them pre
sented by Louis XIV. to the Emperor
Kanghi. So also is the Examination Hall,
with its thirteen thousand rows of tiny
cells, to which come the candidates for
Chinese literary degrees. There are also
temples to see, some of them fine, as the Yellow Temple and the
Confucian Temple, the latter being the centre of Confucian wor
ship in China, and the former being one of the most famous for
Buddhist worship.
A great deal of kind hospitality was shown us at the Ameri
can Legation by our Minister, Colonel Denby, and his wife, both
so well-known and so highly regarded by foreigners throughout
China, and by the missionaries of the American Presbyterian

MS"

A MANCHU WOMAN.

200

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

and English Church missions; while on Sunday there was the
great pleasure of the familiar service in the dignified chapel in the
grounds of the English Legation, which we had also enjoyed the
previous Sunday at the chapel of the English Consulate in
Tientsin. In Shanghai we had met Mr. Holcombe, author of "The
Real Chinaman," and in Peking we met Mr. Gilbert Reid, author
of "A Glimpse of China," and Miss Scidmore, author of "Jin
rikisha Days," all of whose books have been of use and interest

EMPEROR OF CHINA SLEDDING IN THE PALACE GARDEN, PEKING. «

to us in our journeyings. But it was with special interest that
we visited Mr. Murray, to whose wonderful work for the blind
Miss Gordon-Cumming devotes a thrilling chapter in her "Wan
derings in China." The good Scotch missionary and his wife,
surrounded by their blind boys and girls, who read to us from
the Gospels, played for us on the melodeon, and sang familiar
hymns for us on that bright Sunday afternoon, will always
remain a pleasant memory in our recollections of Peking.

THE IMPERIAL CITY. 201
It was our great privilege throughout this part of our travels
to have the companionship and guidance of Dr. Atterbury, for
sixteen years, chiefly at his own cost, an honored medical mis
sionary of the Presbyterian Board in China, lately decorated
with the order of the Double Dragon for services rendered during
the late war in connection with the Red Cross Society. To his
unfailing kindness and thoughtfulness we owed the greater part
of the pleasure and success of our visit to Northern China, and
to his thorough knowledge of the people and the country we
were indebted for our intelligent understanding of many of the
problems presented to us, such as even the best and most -care
fully written books do not always sufficiently explain.

IX.
CEYLON REVISITED.
IT always seems to me to spoil much of the delight of travel
ling to be perpetually drawing comparisons between places
to the advantage or disadvantage of either, but it certainly adds
to one's enjoyment to be often reminded of one grand or beauti
ful view by another, and it heightens one's powers of apprecia
tion to note and to distinguish the various points suggested of
likeness or of difference.
I thought of this on Thanksgiving Day as we were climbing
up by train to Nuwara Eliya, more than six thousand feet above
the sea, and again the next morning as we drove to Badulla, re
membering our latest mountain journeying in China, and how
there each barren peak was surmounted by the line of the Great
Wall, while here in Ceylon everyslope and ridge and distant
range was clothed in verdure to the summit. In one short
month we had come far away from that northern region, now
locked in ice and cold, to the ever-green summer of the tropics,
and to the most lovely island in the world.
After our visit to Peking we had another too brief stay in
Shanghai, and one more glimpse of our missionary friends, and
then came two more days and a half on the water, followed by
a delightful week in Hong Kong.
On my former journey I was only able to stay here during
the twenty-four hours that the steamer was in port, but my rec
ollections of the picturesque, land-locked harbor, and of a pleas
ant day up on the Peak, had always made me wish for a longer
time to test the charms of what seemed to me a most attractive
place. They proved as real as I had imagined, on a better ac
quaintance, while in addition we made from thence the most in
teresting three days' trip to Canton and Macao, with which every
book of travel in the East has made us familiar from childhood.

CEYLON REVISITED. 203
Taking the S. S. " Oceanien " of the Messageries line from
Hong Kong, we were able to spend a day at Saigon, the French
Settlement in Cambodia, after coasting along the shores of
Cochin China, and another at Singapore, the most important
port of the Straits Settlement, on the very point of the Malay
Peninsula, and only one degree and a half from the equator. We

NATIVE HUT, CEYLON.
drove about both these places, and visited the pretty botanical-gar
dens in each, but the heat was too great for us to desire to remain
or to carry out our original intention of crossing the equator
and spending a week or ten days in Java. Every one gave us
glowing accounts of the luxuriant tropical vegetation we should
see, and we had a wish to verify the accounts for ourselves, but

204 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
with Ceylon before us, it was not hard to turn our faces away
and pursue our course through the Straits of Malacca, within
sight of Sumatra, across the Bay of Bengal, and into the Indian
Ocean, until at last we dropped anchor in the well-remembered
harbor behind the great stone breakwater of Colombo.
Ceylon has no wonderful volcano like Hawaii, but other
wise it possesses all the natural charms of the Hawaiian Islands
in one, and the visitor or the happy resident can go from the
tropical to the temperate zone in a day, without crossing choppy
channels in boats whose existence one recalls only with a shud
der. This is what makes Ceylon such a peculiarly delightful
place to the traveller, a haven of rest in mid-ocean, a fascinating
fairy-land of brilliant beauty, with fair mountain heights upon
whose summits one may breathe in a life-renewing air, reviv
ing, but as soft as velvet, in an atmosphere glowing with the
golden rays of a still tropical sun.
So many tourists spend but a few hours or days here, see
ing as I did before only Colombo and perhaps Kandy, that I
should like, for the benefit of friends who may be planning
some similar trip in the future, to tell a little minutely how three
weeks may be passed delightfully, or a month, if that time can
be spared. Landing on a Monday morning, on November 2^, we
found ourselves still oppressed by the heat and moisture, and
somewhat depressed in spirit by the tidings we received of in
cessant rain, making us fear that our experiences in Japan might
be about to be repeated. Even the attractions of the Grand
Oriental Hotel, with its adjoining colonnade of curious East In
dian bazaars, failed to please as it should have done, and we
drove off in the afternoon to Mount Lavinia and lingered about
the verandas of its equally fine hotel, overlooking the sea,
wondering at ourselves that we should seek it again so soon,
without a keener satisfaction in being safely on shore.
After a night's rest, however, and with the freshness of a
bright new day, Colombo looked to me like itself again. 1 did
what 1 had so much enjoyed doing when here before, took a

CEYLON REVISITED. 205
jinrikisha and went off by myself to see the town wake up,
riding around the Lake, past the little Buddhist temple, Victoria
Park and the Cinnamon Gardens, to make an early call on the
Sisters of St. Margaret and to see their schools, returning by the
ever-delightful Galle Face Road, looking out upon the Indian
Ocean, to a ten o'clock breakfast. Those who sleep during the
early morning hours will never learn to know and love Ceylon,
and there is time enough for rest at mid-day, when no sensible
person tempts the heat by unseasonable excursions..
Later in this same day we took the train for Kandy, taking
what is often called the most unique and beautiful railroad ride
in the world, to which only a similar ride in Mexico can be well
compared. In seventy-five miles we went up 1,680 feet above
sea level, all the way through the most varied tropical verdure,
and in sight of constantly changing and increasingly beautiful
hill and valley views, made more lovely by the roseate and
golden hues of an exquisite sunset.
The well-remembered and most attractive Florence Villa re
ceived us again, much enlarged and improved by the addition of
another bungalow since the former visit, and Wednesday opened
for us with an ideal morning, so that we were able to take the
familiar drive around the Lake and Lady Horton's Walk and see
every changing view to perfection. The afternoon we spent at
the famous Peradeniya Gardens, unquestionably the finest in the
world, renewing acquaintance with every tree and shrub and
plant known in the tropics, under the guidance of an intelligent
Singhalese, devoted to the place where he had been happily em
ployed for seventeen years.
There was rain before night-fall, but only such a summer
shower as to give added freshness to the landscape when, on
Thursday morning early, Thanksgiving Day, we left Kandy for
Nuwara Eliya. Up and up and up the railway went, climbing for
fifty-three miles to Nanuoya station, where we left the train and
drove for five miles further, by a good road and easy ascent, up
another thousand feet to the Government Hill Station to which
society in Colombo adjourns during March and April, the hottest

206

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

months of the Ceylon year. We saw it well in an afternoon
drive around Moon Plains, so called because of the moonstones
found there, and out to Rambodde Pass for a glorious view at
sunset. The air was delicious and the hotel most comfortable,

TAMIL GIRL PICKING TEA.

CEYLON REVISITED. 207
each bedroom being provided with a little deep fire-place in
which, on our return from our drive, we found a bright, cheer
ful wood fire burning, by which it was a pleasure to sit and
dream late on into the night, recalling all the pleasures and all
the mercies of the way with truly thankful hearts.
Here on Friday morning our party divided for a brief space
of time, to meet again at Bandarawella the following day, two
going thence by train, while the other two of us drove first by
special coach to Badulla, where we were to spend the night at
the Government Rest House, proceeding to Bandarawella by the
regular coach on Saturday.
I have no words with which to describe the beauty of that
day's ride of thirty-six miles, beginning with the wide pano
rama spread out before us as we stopped, six miles on our way,
at Hakgalla Gardens, magnificently situated, and differing from
Peradeniya in that they include with the tropical and semi-
tropical plants those from the temperate zone, and make a
specialty of all the lovely English flowers and vines and shrubs,
so home-like and familiar.
All along the way the eye wanders over innumerable peaks
and slopes like billows of the ocean, from Pidurutallagalla, the
highest mountain in Ceylon, 8,295 feet above the sea, to low,
soft downs reminding one of the Isle of Wight, while every
where the splendid tea plantations contest their possession with
the native jungle. Cocoa plantations too abound throughout
this region, with coffee here and there, now being largely
crowded out by tea, and the landscape is in all directions enliv
ened by the vivid green of the rice fields, beautifully terraced on
the more southern slopes all the way down to Colombo. Palm
trees of various kinds reappear in abundance as we descend to
lower levels, near the picturesque thatched native huts embow
ered among the huge leaves of the banana. Now and then, but
rarely, we pass through a tiny hamlet, but there is no place large
enough to pause for the rest and refreshment, which we seek in
stead under some overhanging boughs, until we ride through
the winding village street of Badulla and draw up before the

208

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

deep veranda of the Rest House, where dusky, bright-robed,
turbaned servants await our coming and make us speedily at
home and comfortable.
Badulla is an ideal tropical village, with an elevation of
2,222 feet, not so large a place as Kandy, and not so finished
artificially, but with every
attraction on a small scale
for a sweet and charming
home. "Wherever the
English go they carry law
and literature and relig
ion," our American Min
ister said to me in Peking,
a remark confirmed by an
experience of every vari
ety of peaceful, well-
ordered communities in
every clime the world
around, and Badulla is a
notable illustration of its
truth. Close by our prim
itive but good hotel stood
a lovely little stone church,
with its ever-open door
and Daily Morning and
Evening Prayer, built in
1845 in memory of a cer
tain Major Rogers, once
District Attorney, "by all
classes of his friends and
admirers," and surrounded by its green and leafy well-kept
churchyard, where many crosses marked the graves of the unfor
gotten dead. Near by was the pleasant parsonage, and next the
school, under the care of the Church, for native boys, and the
spacious shady common, where we saw them merrily at play.

SINGHALESE GIRL.

CEYLON REVISITED.

209

There was a Wesleyan chapel and girls' school, an excellent
hospital, a good library building, a race course in a "Happy
Valley," where young men were enjoying a game of cricket at
sunset, a tennis court where more young men and maidens were
amusing themselves at the same hour, and a fine botanical
garden, beside the usual Hindu or Buddhist temple and Moham
medan mosque of all Ceylon and East Indian towns. Pretty, at
tractive roads and long leafy lanes tempted the visitor to walk or
drive, and another lovely sunset added its special charm to each
beautiful view. Only some half dozen English families live in
this little town, but there are many most respectable Burghers
and Singhalese with some Tamils, forming, as it seemed to us,
a most cheerful and friendly social circle.
I was very glad to go to 4 o'clock Prayers, and to stop after
ward to speak with the rector, who, with his wife, came in the
evening to call upon us. Walking also in the churchyard, 1
made the acquaintance of the Singhalese sexton, asking him as
we met if he came there to church. "Ithe church servant,"
he answered, with evident pride in his honorable office, and
proceeded to escort me to the choir room, where a little com
pany of Singhalese children were practicing for the next Sun
day's service. I wished we were to remain, for a pleasanter
place in which to spend a Sunday it would be hard to find, at
any rate on a journey in the East.
Instead, we went on the following morning by the regular
mail coach to Bandarawella, where, contrary to our expectations,
we had no service at all, but only a peaceful day of rest in the
most quiet nook, high up among the mountains, that could pos
sibly be imagined. Hardly a sound disturbed the stillness, while
all around us lay the lofty hills, on which played an infinite
variety of lights and shadows, with occasional rising mists and
softly falling showers through which we caught the faint and
fleeting colors of a passing rainbow.
The three points I have mentioned, Nuwara Eliya, Badulla
and Bandarawella, form a triangle of beauty, no part of which
should be omitted by the traveller who can spare time to see it

210 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
all. The last place bears away the palm for healthfulness and
perfect climatic conditions, and the charming bungalow hotel,
built around a tiny green court with a palm tree in the centre,
and surrounded by its broad verandas, commanding in all direc
tions the same peaceful mountain view, was as perfect a place in
which to rest as we have found in all our travels. For part of
our stay we had it entirely to ourselves, and it was a treat to
bring out our books and work and writing and settle ourselves
cosily in such an attractive spot. The three hours' ride thither
was as full of delight, though not of as varied interest, as that
of the day before, and another drive toward sunset took us to
Haputale Pass, where we looked across the most extensive
mountain panorama we had yet seen, directly out to the sea, a
hundred miles away.
One of the only two English residents of the place came to
call upon us, an intelligent and agreeable young man, who
proved to be partly an American, having been born in Jamaica,
Long Island, his mother's early home.
We read a great deal this week, chiefly guide books and
Miss Gordon-Cummings's "Two Happy Years in Ceylon," and
planned trips more than sufficient to fill every hour until our
steamer should carry us again away. We also tried to look a
little into the vexed question of East Indian spelling, but with
siight satisfaction, beyond the unanimous testimony of residents
that, Murray's invaluable guide-book to the contrary, nobody
out here spells "Singhalese" with a "C," as at home. Some
insist also that the "g" should be omitted, although granting
that the "n" has the sound of "g," others take the opposite
view. In fact, one of the two newspapers in Colombo uses
"Singhalese" uniformly, and the other as rigidly "Sinhalese."
We had the same experience in China, where, in the south the
name of the Imperial City is always spelled " Pekin," but in the
north, in the city itself, " Peking." The language of each one of
these different countries is always a matter of interest and dis
cussion. One local guide-book in Japan we found carefully
spelling Buddha "Buddah" throughout, and time-tables of

CEYLON REVISITED.

21 I

trains, hotel notices, etc., exhibit a bewildering variety. "We
have nothing else to talk about," was the answer I received
when once commenting upon the frequency with which the
language was made the subject of conversation.- It is certainly
most interesting, and so are questions relating to the habits and
customs, the religion and traditions and superstitions of the
natives, to the visitor, still under the charm of the novelty of it
all. Even a dull or stormy day, when excursions are out of the
range of possibility or pleasure, may be enlivened and made
valuable by thus gathering up and reviewing and making more
entirely one's own the human elements ever most important in
whatever land of natural beauty and grandeur one's lot may lie.

ST. THOMAS S MOUNT, MADRAS.

X.
INDIA REVISITED.
IN revisiting any country, one hardly knows which is more
1 interesting, seeing again familiar places, or for the first time
making acquaintance with fresh sights about which hangs the
charm of novelty.
We approached India this time by steamer from Colombo
to Calcutta, and had a good view of the hitherto unknown
French port of Pondicherry, though a heavy sea prevented us
from even wishing to land in the rude, native boats that came
out to us from the shore, seemingly in danger of being engulfed
by every wave, upon which, after all, they really rode in safety.
At Madras we spent a night, finding a much better landing
place than when here four years ago, and many improvements
in the city in the way of fine new public buildings, particularly
the Museum. But nothing new can possess the interest that is
felt as one catches the first glimpse from the sea of St. Thomas's
Mount, where tradition says the Apostle landed when he began
his missionary work in India. Its summit is crowned by an old
Armenian church, reached by a long succession of terraces and
steps, in which, behind the altar, is a remarkable cross with a
Nestorian inscription ©f about the year 800 a.d., which has been
partially translated : "Ever pure . . . is in favor with Him
who bore the Cross."
The Portuguese church at St. Thome marks the spot where
St. Thomas is supposed to have been martyred, his tomb being
pointed out beneath a large trap-door on the south side.
All the earlier settlements of Armenian and Nestorian, of
French and Portuguese, have, however, long ago given place to
English rule, Madras being the first point at which permanent
settlement by the English was made, and old St. Mary's in the
Fort, the first of the numberless English churches now to be
seen everywhere throughout India.

INDIA REVISITED.

213

1

Calcutta looked as natural as though but four weeks instead
of four years had gone by since I saw it last, and it is a city one
learns to like better on a second visit. Its broad Maidan or
common, making such a splendid
breathing place free and open to all
people, the strand along the banks
of the river lined with noble ship
ping from all parts of the world, so
fascinatingly beautiful in the linger
ing golden haze of a sunset drive,
Eden Gardens and the music of the
evening band, delighted in by native
and foreigner alike, Chowringhee

ST. MARY'S IN THE FORT, MADRAS.
Road with its fine homes surrounded by spacious grounds, and
the spire of the cathedral ever in view in the distance, make a
series of pictures in the memory lovely and delightful to recall.

214 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
In the full glare of day, Calcutta looks brown and dry and dusty
and big and uninteresting, but as the declining rays of the sun
rest upon it, and night-fall steals slowly and sweetly on, it
reveals a charm of its own so unlike that of any other city that
it cannot be disregarded or forgotten.
We were there in the Christmas holidays, and saw the great
parade on the Maidan New Year's morning, and some of the
gaieties of Government House and Belvidere, and visited again and
again, the Old Mission Church associated so closely with the
name of Henry Martyn, and saw something of the missionary
work, and visited zenanas with our own American volunteer
missionary, Miss Marston — and finally came away regretfully,
feeling that it was indeed the central city of modern India,
worthy to be its capital, and that it had grown to seem to us
more homelike and attractive than we at first would have believed
to be possible.
Then came a panorama of well-remembered places — Benares
on the banks of the Ganges, with its thousand Hindu temples
and over three hundred Mohammedan mosques, its bathing ghats
and its burning ghats, its extraordinary scenes in the early morn
ing and its glorious sunsets over the sacred river; Cawnpore, with
its painful records of the Mutiny and its lovely Memorial Gar
dens and sorrowing Angel of Peace over the fatal well; Luck
now, with its ruined residency, specially interesting to us
on this visit because we had for our guide the old body-servant
of Sir Henry Lawrence, who was wounded by the same shot
that caused the death of his master; Agra, made ever-memora
ble by the Taj Mahal and by the loveliness of its Pearl
Mosque; Delhi, the ancient capital, with its grand fort and
surrounding ruins of the past; and Jeypore, that curious native
city, with the old Palace of Amber but a few miles away.
One would not, for the sake of any other less well-known
sights, omit these from any journey through India, and yet
it was a great pleasure and satisfaction to be able to add a
long list of new places and new interests to the catalogue of
the old.

INDIA REVISITED. , 215
From Agra we drove one day out to Fatehpur Sikri, the
royal but now deserted city of the Great Akbar. It was begun
and entirely completed during his reign, and on this account and
because of its perfect state of preservation, it forms a unique
specimen of a city in the exact condition in which it was occu
pied by the Great Mogul and his court.
We spent the night here, a brilliant moonlight night, sleep
ing in the palace of Bir Bal, the finest residence in Fatehpur
Sikri, built by the Rajah Bir Bal for his daughter, and it was like
being transported to the Arabian Nights of old, for anything
more Oriental it would be hard to imagine. Exterior and interior
were carved with the most elaborate perfection, all in red sand
stone, and with a minuteness of detail that made one think only
of the delicacy of work on a sandal-wood box.
Close by were the house and garden of Miriam, Akbar's
Christian Portuguese wife, whose tomb I had seen before at
Sikandarah (or Secundra) within sight of the spot where Akbar
himself is buried. Near by were the Turkish Queen's house,
Akbar's own private apartments, the various public buildings —
treasury, mint, hall of audience, council chamber, etc., with
other more curious buildings, in one of which, it is said, Akbar
used to play hide-and-seek with the ladies of his court, and in
another of which the stone flags are made into a parchisi-board,
upon which the game was played with slaves to take the moves.
Mosques and the massive walls of the noble fort add grand
eur to the scene, completed by the Gate of Victory, the grand
est in the world; while the exquisite tomb of a Mohammedan
saint and teacher gives a touch of delicacy and refinement to the
otherwise barbaric splendor and pomp of regal display.
Gwalior was another of the new and interesting points we
visited, riding about its famous rock fort, one of the most an
cient and renowned of the strongholds of India, on an elephant
belonging to the Maharajah. Here are to be seen curiously and
extravagantly sculptured Hindu temples of the same description
as those of southern India, and "rock sculptures," unique in
northern India for their number as well as for their gigantic

216 .THE SECOND JOURNEY.
size. These idol statues are hewn out of the solid rock, and
are colossal, one being fifty-seven feet in height. But the old
fort itself and the magnificent view it commands were really
what we most cared for and will longest remember.
From Delhi we went to Alwar, a most picturesque place,
less often visited than it deserves ; the capital of a native state of
the same name. The city is beautifully situated on rising
ground, with a delightful royal palace, composed of several
buildings, partly detached and built in different styles, opening
upon a beautiful tank of water, above which rises a range of
rugged mountains, and the fort crowning a conical rock over a
thousand feet high, while stately peacocks strut unmolested
over the marble pavements and numberless rock pigeons fly all
around. The library of the palace contains many valuable illumi
nated manuscripts, and in the armory is a splendid collection of
sabres and other weapons, finely wrought and studded with
jewels. The old custodian showed them with great pride, and
evidently enjoyed putting on the heavy coat of chain mail and
showing us how fatal blows might best be dealt with the glitter
ing blade. Ajmeer has a most curious native city, and many mosques
and temples worth seeing, but we most cared for the long drive
we took from there out to Pushkar, where is the most sacred
lake in India, visited annually by over 100,000 pilgrims. It is in
a narrow valley, overshadowed by rocky peaks, and near by is
the only temple in India dedicated to Brahma the Creator; al
though innumerable temples throughout the land witness to the
Hindu's idolatrous reverence and fear for any thought or imag
ination of a deity who is presented to them as a destroyer.
Allahabad is famous as one of the most sacred cities of the
Hindus, because it is situated at the junction of the Ganges
and the Jumna rivers. Once a year, about the month of Janu
ary, there occurs the Mela, a religious fair of great antiquity,
when pilgrims come to bathe in the sacred rivers and encamp on
the sandy tongue of land between them. It is said that some

GOLDEN TEMPLE OF AMRITSAR.

218 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
years the pilgrims have numbered one million persons, and it
must be indeed a wonderful sight to see, though I cannot say it
was one we were particularly sorry to miss.
This is the see city of the English bishopric of Lucknow.
The cathedral, though still without its completed towers and
spires, is a grand building to which Americans are made spec
ially welcome because of a generous gift made toward its erec
tion by a clergyman of the American Church, the Rev. A. G. P.
Dodge, in memory of his young wife who died at Allahabad.
Amritsar is almost as well known to readers about India as
Agra, through its famous Golden Temple which travellers
often speak of as next best worth a visit to the Taj. It is cer
tainly a most picturesque place, particularly near sunset, stand
ing as it does in the middle of its sacred tank, which is sur
rounded by a white marble pavement 470 feet square, its roof
and domes of gold glittering in the brilliant light, while crowds
of worshippers throng its gates, dressed in gorgeous colors of
every rainbow hue and adorned with sparkling jewels and orna
ments of gold and silver. Within, the scene is equally pictur
esque, the priests of the Sikh religion sitting in groups upon
the floor, chanting sacred verses to the music of stringed instru
ments, while pilgrims walk around throwing offerings of cow
ries, money or flowers into a sheet spread in the middle of the
floor to receive them. From every outlook of the temple the
view is Oriental in the extreme, and, as it becomes tinged more
and more with the rosy and golden hues of the setting sun, one
feels that it is indeed as gorgeous a picture as one is likely ever
to see in India or anywhere in the eastern world.
Other pictures, less gorgeous, may, however, linger as long
in the memory, like the narrow streets and high houses of the
old native city of Lahore, the sombre fortress dating from the
days of Akbar. Government House, where Sir John Lawrence
lived, formerly a Mohammedan tomb, and the cathedral, sacred
with recollections of Bishop French, first Bishop of Lahore, who
laid down the office of the episcopate, after ten years of service,
to return to the humblest duties of a missionary, pursuing them

INDIA REVISITED. 219
with untiring zeal to the distant regions of Arabia, where he
gave up life itself for the Lord he loved, and died alone, far
from all earthly friends, "a lonely witness of the Church of
Christ." In old places and in new alike, those earlier visited and
those now seen for the first time, there was ever and everywhere
the constantly changing and constantly fresh panorama of native
life and native customs. From the Toda of the hill-country
near Madras to the Sikh of the Punjab, there was the never-end
ing variety of race and tribe and sect, with all involved therein
of difference in dress and ornament as well as type and feature
and general bearing. The woman at the mill, or with her water
jar upon her head, or sit
ting by the wayside spin
ning; the ordinary country
cart, or bullock wagon, or
ekkah, or jutka, the bazaars
of the town and the
thatched house of the vil
lage, all alike presented
curious scenes and com
binations, as we journeyed
from place to place, of
WOMAN GRINDING AT THE MILL. ^.^ w£ neyer ^..^
and which never ceased to remind us how far away we were
from home.
On the other side of the world was the West, full of the
change and progress of modern times, but here was the East,
the same to all intents and purposes as it had been for centuries,
and with no evident wish for alteration, so far as any one could
see. Nevertheless, permeating it through and through, honey
combing it in every direction, was the incoming Christian civiliza
tion of another land. Desired and acceptable it might not be, but
there it was, with all its mighty latent forces behind it, and who
could tell how soon and how suddenly it might prevail over all
the usages and prejudices of the widely different past?

220 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
Such problems make all the difference in the world, to the
thoughtful traveller, between surface sight seeing and seeing
below the surface, and fill every spot with deep and abiding in
terest, whether new or old. We may confess that we cannot
solve them, and recognize the fact that no human eye can pene
trate the future, but under their influence faith grows stronger
in the power and the purposes of Almighty God and what we
see dimly and understand imperfectly becomes at last only the
more wonderful because of its very indistinctness and mystery.
The world moves, we feel it and know it, guided by a Power
not the less real because unseen, and so inconceivably patient
that in its light, as we watch and wait and ponder, we learn by
slow degrees to have some patience, too.

XII.

IN THE PUNJAB.
HTHE great majority of travellers in India follow
the beaten track between Calcutta and Bom
bay, visiting, as a matter of course, Benares on the
River Ganges, Lucknow and Cawnpore with their
vivid memories of the Mutiny, Agra and the won
derful Taj Mahal, Delhi, with its grand fort and
majestic ruins of the past, and Jeypore and Ahmeda
bad, curious specimens of thoroughly Indian cities
with all the interesting variety of ordinary native
life. Most of them touch at Madras on the passage
to or from Ceylon, and a few brave the heat and
dust of Southern India to see the Hindu temples
in Madura and Trichinopoly. This is usually the
most that the short cold weather season will allow
tourists to accomplish, even if it were not that two
months is about all the time that can be given to
the country by those who must see other lands, in favorable
temperature, during the course of a single tour.
This had been my own earlier experience, and even this only
in part, but another and later experience has added another and
most interesting section to my knowledge of the place and
people. It is'hard to realize, until one sees it for one's self, how like
an immense continent India is, and no acquaintance with its
great central plains can quite prepare one for the sensations to
be met with on going up into the Punjab. Not that it has so
unfamiliar an aspect, for much of its surface is not unlike our
own West, with its rocks and mountains, its elevated plateaus,
its clear, bracing atmosphere, and its brilliant sunshine. We were
often and often reminded of Colorado or of Southern California in

222 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
this part of our journey. But beyond this there is the touch of
strangeness that made one after another of our party exclaim :
"This is like Damascus, or the Plains of Moab, or any place in
Syria, or Mexico, or Northern Italy."
Starting north from Delhi we made our first stop at Um-
balla, spelled also Ambala, where 8,000 troops are stationed and
where fine military services rapidly succeed each other during
almost every hour of a Sunday morning. It was the same at
Rawl Pindi, where there are 10,000 men, and at Peshawar,
where there areas many more; and at these several points, as
at Lahore, and Attack, and up the Khyber Pass, there were
camps and forts and parades to see, and all the paraphernalia
and circumstance of an army on the watch, ready and waiting
for any possible outbreak or alarm of war.
Here it was easy to understand that we had reached the
actual frontier of the country, and were on true historic ground,
and yet it was with a thrill, as over a new discovery, that we
gazed from Attack Fort upon perhaps the very spot where Al
exander crossed the Indus, and heard that it was at Rawl Pindi
Bucephalus was buried.
Down through the Khyber Pass and other narrow moun
tain defiles, conquering nations, beginning with the earliest bands
of Aryans, had streamed into India; and in that pass had oc
curred the most tremendous fighting of the first and second
Afghan wars, and from this whole region of the Punjab, the
finest regiments of native soldiers of the British Army had been
recruited and sent down in rapid succession by Sir John Law
rence for the recovery of Delhi in the days of the Great Mutiny,
when the re-capture of the fort and of the city meant not only
the re-establishment of English rule there, but throughout India.
Only in Calcutta, on New Year's Day, when the proclama
tion of Queen Victoria as Empress of India was read again, as
it always is annually, at the grand parade on the Maidan, had we
elsewhere seen any signs of military force as we journeyed about
the country, and when we heard that only a Civil Service of 960
Englishmen, backed by an army of 80,000 men, a large majority

IN THE PUNJAB. 223
up in this distant region of the Punjab, ruled and kept in peace
and order nearly 300,000,000 of Indian people, as widely differ
ent in race, in speech and in religion, as the various nations of
Europe, it seemed a marvel indeed.
In a book I came across about this time, an English Army
officer, referring to Delhi, is represented as speaking as fol
lows: "Many who visit the wonderful remains of ancient grandeur
scattered around the city of the Great Mogul may be inclined to
think, as others have already thought, that the traces we should
leave in India, if we were to quit the country, would be as
nought to these stately monuments of a more ancient regime.
To all such cavillers, I would answer in the words of De Quincy
— ' Another argument against England, urged by the English
people at this time was, that she in no eminent sense has been a
benefactor to India; or, expressing it in words of later date, the
only memorials of our rule, supposing us suddenly ejected from
India, would be vast heaps of champagne bottles. I, on the
other hand, allege that our benefits, like all true and lasting
benefits (religious benefits, for instance), must not be sought in
external memorials of stone and masonry. Higher by far than
the Mogul gifts of lime-stone or travelling stations, or even
roads and tanks, were the gifts of security, of peace, of law and
settled order.' What the great essayist states with regard to the
benefits of the British rule may be verified by any one who
chooses to impartially look around him. If a hundred years of
law and order, of justice to the oppressed, of freedom to the
subject, and of liberty of action and of speech to the people
that we govern, confers any right of reigning on the holders of
power, then true it is we have that right."
And in another place in the same book, merely a slight
story of Indian life, the same officer expresses what must be
indeed the experience of many and many a soldier who has
come out from home to India, and of many a civilian who has
shared in the double rule of pen and sword over that extraordin
ary empire.

224 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
"A man does not know what England is, until he leaves
England. Then, by degrees, if he has in him any power of
thought and feeling, his eyes are opened, and it comes home to
him, as it never did before, that he has a right to hold his head
very high. The howls of party fight grow fainter and fainter
until they no longer vex the ear, and the little angry politicians
are seen no more, and, in their place there rises a majestic form
with calm and fearless eyes, England, the Mother of Empires.
. . . It comes home to him that generation after generation,
while statesmen have been wrangling and reviling one another,
and carrying on their eternal struggle for place and power, mil
lions of Englishmen all over the world, regardless of party
squabbles and party cries, have been steadily bearing forward
the English flag. So it has been, and so it- is still. They colon
ize America and Australia and New Zealand, and conquer India,
and open out Africa, so that the English tongue is heard and the
English flag is seen in every quarter of the globe. They are a
heterogeneous force — peers and ploughmen, soldiers and sailors,
merchants and magistrates, squatters and parsons, women and
children; and they fight loosely, without much combination, and
suffer heavy losses. Their graves are everywhere; the earth and
the sea are full of their dead. Many of their countrymen, who
stay comfortably at home, are too ready to believe evil of them,
to lecture and condemn them on the smallest evidence, or on
none at all, to impede them in their work, to support against
them any man of another color — even at times to look on with
indifference while they are fighting for their lives ; but the
English flag goes forward, nevertheless, and with it, into
all the dark places of the earth, freedom and order and
justice." This is the abiding thought left after a visit to the Punjab.
Memories of the early Aryans, of Alexander, of the conquering-
Moslem and Tartar, even of the Great Mogul, may fade; but the
relation of England to India is not only a matter of history, it is
a present fact, intensely interesting and ever fresh, and full of
possible problems of the future.

IN THE PUNJAB. 225
How few of us realize that, in the land which we call India,
there is a vast number, more than six hundred, dependent states !
They cover more than one-third of its surface, and contain more
than one-fifth of its population. How few of us remember that
India has been twice conquered by the British nation, once by
force and once by statesmanship, and that these native states,
forming a bulwark and breakwater against future storms, are
kept at peace with each other as never before under any former
rule. The names of the five Lawrence brothers who served
nobly in India, and especially of Sir Henry and Lord John Law
rence, are inseparably connected with its later history, and that
of the last not only with its secular but with its religious history.
In one life of Lord Lawrence the author says: "The rev
olution in Christian policy in India within the last quarter
of a century has been complete. And not least among the
causes which have brought about the change is the publication
of the most famous and the most widely known of Sir John
Lawrence's despatches, that of April 21, 1858, on the doing of
Christian things in a Christian way," and another passage shows
the nature of the man who was known throughout England as
the "Organizer of Victory," and the "Saviour of India."
"The events of the Mutiny profoundly stirred the deep
religious nature of Sir John Lawrence. He had seen the British
power in Upper India drowned in a deluge of blood. He had
seen the Punjab saved as if by fire. In recounting the difficulties
and dangers he had surmounted, he acknowledged that the first
cause was the mercy of God. 'No doubt,' he said, 'humanly
speaking, the Punjab possessed great advantages, but, as a pro
tection against the peril of the time, all such advantages were as
nothing without the support of the everlasting arm of Almighty
God. To Him alone, therefore, be all the praise!' 'It was not
policy,' wrote Montgomery — for there were many saintly men in
the Punjab besides its chief — 'or soldiers or officers, that saved
the Indian Empire to England and saved England to India. The
Lord our God — He it was!' In Montgomery's expression of

226 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
humble thankfulness, Sir John Lawrence devoutly joined. ' It is
owing to an over-ruling Providence, and to that alone, that a
single Englishman was left alive in the Punjab."
" It is not often that the guiding hand of God is so openly
acknowledged in public documents. This Christian confession
is not to be attributed to pious emotion excited by the solemnity.
of the time. Lawrence's religion was the moving power of his
life, the mainspring of his single-hearted devotion to duty. No
estimate of his life and work can be true that omits to take this
into account. There was in him a strong spiritual force, work
ing silently and unobtrusively, that leavened and moulded every
thing he did."
When we remember the testimony of Lord Lawrence near
the close of his life, regarding the value of work done by mis
sionaries in India — "I believe, notwithstanding all that the
English people have done to benefit that country, the mission
aries have done more than all other agencies combined" — it will
not seem strange that those to whom missionary work is dear trace
the footsteps of Lord Lawrence, first through the Punjab and then
throughout India, with an ever-deepening interest and admir
ation and love, understanding how true it is that largely upon the
co-operation of the Christian soldier, the Christian statesman and
the Christian ruler, the final success of missionary work depends.
It was our privilege in this journey not only thus to become
familiar with the life and work of one such Christian statesman
and ruler — a sample, we could well believe, of many others —
but to come very close also to heroic acts done by less prominent
people in less striking ways, for the benefit of the races in India
under English rule.
Famine and pestilence were rife in the land, and a cloud of
anguish and anxiety hung over it from end to end. The natives
themselves were struck with panic and despair. Stunned and
stupefied, they knew not which way to turn. They abandoned
their dead and fled from their dying, seeking aimlessly only their
own safety, regardless of the fate even of those bound most
closely to them by blood and by religion.

IN THE PUNJAB. 227
Then, in this time of trial, those who are too often thought
of only as their rulers, proved their protectors as well. Govern
ment gathered them by thousands into almshouses and fed them,
and by hundreds of thousands into public works, and gave
them small but sufficient wages, keeping families alive and to
gether, and bringing back hope and cheer and courage and self-
respect. The whole civilized world knows of the horrors of the
plague in Bombay, but the bravery of English men and women,
who nursed the sick and ministered to the dying, and buried the
dead and disinfected the dwellings, is less widely known, though
it well deserves to be recorded for all time in any Book of
Golden Deeds. Not only priests and sisters stood nobly at their
posts, but soldiers shared their labors, and volunteers were found
by their side, unactuated, they would have said, perhaps, by any
definite Christian motive, but surely influenced by all the envi
ronment of Christian civilization and example in which they
found themselves.
An article in one of the daily papers while we were in the
Punjab, speaking of these labors in the port of Karachi, inci
dentally remarked that "what eventually more forcibly im
pressed the natives than anything else was the evident fact that
the sahib loque and their assistants were virtually risking their
lives in carrying out their work and going into houses in which
plague-stricken people had recently died"; but that was the
only instance in which I saw it recognized in print that anything
was being done beyond the ordinary, every-day duty to be
expected of "the ruling race" in India.

XIII.
THE HILL STATIONS OF INDIA.
HpHE life-giving health resorts of India for English soldiers and
* civilians, and the summer home for the great majority of
English women and children, are the hill stations. I saw four of
them in my last journey round the world — Darjeeling, closest to
the grand mountain peaks and the everlasting snows of the
Himalayas; Simla, the Government centre for six months of the
year, and the scene of so many Indian stories; Murree, the
breathing-place of the Punjab during the intense heat before the
rains, and Mount Abu, where several of the Maharajas of Raj
putana have their summer homes, the nearest northern hill
station to Bombay. A journey through India should include a
visit to one or more of these attractive spots, or to Coonoor or
Ootacamund, in the South, the favorite resorts of Madras and
other more southern cities.
It is not merely the being there that is pleasant, but the
manner of going there gives a pleasing variety to the traveller's
trip, and enables one to enter a little more closely into what is a
very important part of the life of the foreign residents of the
land. We went first to Darjeeling, best and most glorious of all,
leaving Calcutta in the late afternoon of Christmas Day, after
services in the Cathedral and the Old Mission Church, that we
might not altogether miss the " snowy Christmas " that seems
to us more fitting than the accompaniments of summer heat and
tropical verdure. An all-night railroad ride, broken by the cross
ing of a ferry and dinner on the ferry boat, is rather a tiresome
beginning, but, after breakfast at a way-station, there is a change
to a very toy-like, narrow-gauge road, and after that, some
hours of picturesque climbing up and up, and round and round,
through rather rugged country and over wooded hillsides, until

THE HILL STATIONS OF INDIA. 229
at last the snow-capped peaks break upon the view, and all
weariness is forgotten.
Woodlands, the hotel at which we stayed, is so situated
that the mountains are in full sight, stretched out in grand pano
rama, a constant delight and inspiration from earliest dawn
until hidden by the darkness. It was our great good fortune, in
the few days we stayed, not to lose them because of any cloud
or storm, and though they were not always and equally fine,
the constant changes, caused by a varying light and shadow,
and rising and vanishing mists, only added to their beauty and
grandeur. There we were, eight thousand feet above the water level,
with the noble and massive summit of Kinchinjanga towering
twenty thousand feet higher above us, often with a blank of
fleecy clouds lying across its base, so that it looked as though
separated from us by a silvery sea, or as though it were itself a
part of the distant cloud-land, and not of earth at all. We
watched it tinged with the coming sunrise, and as the latest
rays of sunset and the rosy after-glow rested upon it, and we
saw it also shining, cold and fair, in the moonlight, and could
never tell when it seemed most lovely or most majestic.
One night we rode in jinrikishas to Observation Hill for a
more extended sunset view, and another morning, in dandies,
to Tiger Hill and Senchal, for a wider panorama still, catching
there a tiny glimpse of Mount Everest, twenty-nine thousand
feet in height, the highest mountain in the world, but so far
away that it seems small in comparison, and only on rare occa
sions can be seen at all.
Darjeeling itself is an irregular collection of houses and
hotels and boarding-houses scattered over several hillsides, all
built with reference to Kinchinjanga, and all refined and digni
fied by it. There is a fine mall and an extremely pretty church,
well situated on a good elevation, so that it can be seen from
every direction ; and there are pleasant walks, carefully laid out,
leading in various ways, and a bazaar, in which can be seen the
hill-people of a different type from those in other parts of

230 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
India — strong and sturdy, and with features similar to the Tartar
or the Mongolian, and wearing amulets and ornaments of a kind
peculiar to themselves.
Simla, although so much more fashionable, seemed to us
vulgar in its winter aspect in comparison with Darjeeling, and
we were quite agreed that a summer in the latter place would
be far preferable to one in the former. There is one very long
and beautiful ride to be taken in jinrikishas, all around Simla,
rather remote from the multitude of little wooden houses that
are often picturesquely enough placed, but too near together for
privacy; and there are plenty of hills to climb for distant views,
but none of the views, when you see them, are so fine or so
satisfying; and there is a pervading sense of gaiety that does
not quite accord with the majesty and repose of the mountain
ous setting. We went there from Kalka, a railway station reached from
Delhi via Umballa, and by a famous Government tonga road; a
tonga being a curious cross between a cart and a wagon, each
drawn by a pair of horses, fresh relays being furnished at the
posting station at every four miles. We happened to be a some
what larger party than usual, and had two tongas, two landau
tongas and an ordinary landau for the trip, with ten horses for
the five conveyances; and as the distance from Kalka to Simla is
sixty miles, and we changed fifteen times each way, we had three
hundred horses in the course of our two days' ride. As they
had had but little to do during the winter season, they were all
fresh and ready for the start when the word was given, and
galloped the whole way over the perfectly smooth but con
stantly-curving road, so that it was a very exhilarating experience.
It was even more so, however, when we went to Murree,
for that was our first acquaintance with tonga riding, and we
then had. nothing else, although the length of the road from
Rawl Pindi, up in the Punjab, our point of departure, was
less, being only thirty-six miles each way. At Murree we actu
ally went up into the very snows, and not only in sight of them,
for three miles before we reached the hotel where we were to

THE HILL STATIONS OF INDIA. 231
spend the night, the road was blocked and the horses could go
no farther. In consequence we had to ride on horseback or in
dandies the rest of the way by a short, winding, steep cut up
the mountain-side, where overhanging pines and other ever
greens made us feel that we were more in the midst of winter
than we had been anywhere else since leaving home. The
opening of an absolutely empty hotel, every door of which was
padlocked when we arrived, the hurried lighting of fires in every
room that was to be used or occupied, the rush of the servants
for hot tea and toast, the moving of beds as near as was safe to
the cheerful blaze, and the bustle of preparation for dinner — the
chief point being that we should soon be made as warm as possible
— gave us a lively and not at all a disagreeable change from the
plains and the lowlands, where we were accustomed to see the
mercury stand at 86° or thereabouts, day after day, in the shade,
and as often as not in the night time, too.
Murree had been the summer home of Lord Lawrence, in
the earlier days when he was Sir William Lawrence and Chief
Commissioner of the Punjab, which was an interest to us; and
from its heights we looked across to the Kashmir Mountains,
wishing with all our hearts that we could cross them and pay a
visit to that lovely "Vale of Cashmere," of which we had
heard so much and thought so often. It was out of the ques
tion, for just then no one was venturing over the pass excepting
the mail-coolie, with the mail on his back; so we were forced to
be contented with the snow-capped view, and with the stories
of the beautiful valley told in broken English by our Kashmir
guide. Up in Murree a Soldiers' Home was being built, to which
they might go when entitled to a furlough; a rightful holiday too
often passed over for want of any friends with whom to stay in
India. We had seen a Soldiers' Home in Rawl Pindi, of which this
was the outcome, that had interested us greatly, and indeed it is
seldom anywhere that I have seen an enterprise of true Chris
tian charity that seemed to me more attractive. Ten thousand

232 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
British troops are stationed thereabouts, and this simply fur
nished a suitable place of resort for those who cared to make use
of it; every evening in particular, but also in the daytime, if
necessary. A wide hall ran through the house, with two rooms for
Bible class teaching on one side, and a large reading and gen
eral meeting room occupying the whole of the other side. In
this large room three splendid generous open fires were blazing,
about which soldiers sat, with their books and papers and their
pet dogs, made as welcome as their masters, while plenty of
other books and papers and games were to be seen on several
tables; and on the walls were many photographs and engravings
of as refined and really beautiful a character as any lady need
desire for her drawing-room ; and there was a melodeon upon
which a soldier was softly playing.
The Home was under the care of three English women, who
had their own home in an adjoining building, connected with it
by an open corridor. Every morning they were occupied with
the care of their house and with Bible study; every afternoon
they visited the women in the different regiments, and every
evening one took in turn the charge of a Bible class, to which
such men came as felt inclined, while the other two sat in the
reading room and the men came and talked with them as they
wished, and confided to them their difficulties and troubles, and
received such counsel and advice as they were able to give.
Once a week, if possible, some clergyman gave a lecture,
or a talk, or a Bible reading; and any night coffee or tea and
rolls, or buns, could be obtained for a small price by all who
desired them.
It seemed to us a model institution, and a most simple and
effective way of working, and we wished such a Soldiers'
Home might be established in every military station, with
women of just such tact and ability to manage it.
Mount Abu, where we spent our last week before leaving
India, was an altogether different place from Darjeeling, Simla,
or Murree. It was a good elevation and the air was deliciously

THE HILL STATIONS OF INDIA. 2}}
cool and bracing, but there was nothing winter-like about it, for
the palm-trees are growing there, giving it a little bit the aspect
of the tropics, and flowers were blooming, and it had a loveli
ness of its own that reminded us more of Ceylon than any spot
we had seen since leaving that beautiful island.
There were wonderful Hindu temples to be seen at Mount
Abu, literally covered with the finest carving; there, too, were
pleasant walks and rides and excursions to be taken, and there,
also, we found another charming charity in the shape of the
Lawrence School for Soldiers' Children. This had been the
home of Sir Henry Lawrence after leaving the Punjab and his
association with his brother John, and before going to Lucknow,
and here he established this little school, of which there are
others like it in India, though 1 think none so attractive.
Orphan or half-orphan children of soldiers have the first
claim whenever there is a vacancy, and it is always full; forty
little boys and an equal number of little girls, in their strictly
separate departments, receiving the best and most suitable kind
of an education and the kindest and most homelike care.
We visited the school, and we saw the children also in their
»
places as choir of the pretty church ; the boys in dark blue suits,
with broad white linen collars ; the girls in dark blue gowns,
with' broad white worked muslin collars, and wide pink muslin
hats, with pink muslin strings tied under their chins; all looking
as sweet and dear as it was possible for children to look, singing
and responding perfectly, and behaving throughout the service
with the utmost propriety.
No wonder that we lingered afterwards to read with inter
est, and to copy, the tablet placed over the west door of the
church, and that the pleasant picture of that last Sunday lingers
in our memory as one of the sweetest in all the Indian journey:
This tablet is erected
in memory of
Major-General Sir Henry Montgomery Lawrence,
K. C. B.
Formerly agent to the Governor- General of Raj
putana,

234 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
Who died on the 4th day of July, 1857, of wounds
received in the Lucknow Residence. As a
gallant soldier, a distinguished statesman,
and a true Christian philanthropist,
his memory needs no record.
He was a warm friend of the British soldier, for
whose orphans and children in India he
founded schools at Sunawar and
Mount Abu.
Like institutions at Murree and Ootacamund have
been raised to his memory by private sub
scriptions. In his last hours he dic
tated this epitaph:
" Here lies Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his
duty."
Yes, that is certainly one of our sweetest memories — with
the prayer for persons going to sea, and the familiar hymn,
" Eternal Father, strong to save," sung for one who had been
a good friend to the children and who had done honorable ser
vice in India for thirty-eight years — an English Colonel who
sailed with us on the steamer from Bombay, and whom we
were glad to count as our friend, too, before the voyage was done.
But the most glorious memory, more wonderful than the
never-to-be-forgotten Taj at Agra, is one that will always be
recalled with every later view of the mountains, and with every
mention of any hill station the world over. To have seen the
Himalayas from Darjeeling in perfect weather, with fine sunrise
and sunset, and in the still beauty of the full moon, is something
to be remembered always and with thanksgiving.
Those far-distant snow-capped summits, that no human
foot has ever trod, will ever make for us an unearthly picture as
they come back to us in silent hours, or flash before us at some
chance word, or in the imperfect mirror of a photograph. Like
a heavenly vision they speak of another world than this; a land
of infinite strength and security, and purity and peace; a land of
which the traveller remembers it is said that there is " no more
sea," but in which from "a great and high mountain," the saints
shall behold "that great city, the holy Jerusalem, descending
out of heaven from God."

XIV.
A WEEK IN PALESTINE.
\A/HAT can one see in a single week in the Holy Land, that
land which of all others one most desires to visit ? It
may be that many are prevented from seeing it at all by the
thought that they have little time at their disposal, and journey
ing there is difficult and can only be done in a leisurely way by
slow stages, and in connection with a camping expedition and a
large party of perhaps not congenial persons. Such a thought
had often been in my own mind, but when at last the opportu
nity came to me, it all seemed so much easier than I had imag
ined, and delightful beyond my fairest dreams.
If one has only a limited time, however, one must not
make too large plans. By being prepared to be content with a
little, it will be found that that little opens out into wonderfully
more than could have been supposed possible.
Leaving the rest of the party in Cairo, and rejoining them
there again in exactly eight days, I had two days and nights for
the journey from that city to Jaffa via Port Said and return, two
days for Jaffa and the railroad ride from there to Jerusalem and
return, and four days for Jerusalem itself and for its immediate
neighborhood and surroundings. In travelling I had friends
with me, but their stay was to be longer than mine and our
plans were not the same, and there were many agreeable people
at the hotel with whom to speak occasionally of what we were
seeing or going to see, but I did not join them for any excursion,
so that my week in Palestine was spent practically alone with
my dragoman and my Bible, and arranged entirely according to
my own convenience. Otherwise I could not have accomplished
all I did, and so satisfactorily without haste, feeling that I might
linger as long as 1 pleased at each sacred place, and depart as
often as I chose from the original programme of the day. If I

236 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
describe somewhat circumstantially what I did, stating also
what seems to me from such short experience might still better
be done, it may be a help to others who sometime may have the
like happy privilege of visiting, for no matter how brief a
period, the Holy Land.
The steamer anchored off Jaffa in the early morning of the
fifth of March, with a sky overhead so clear and cloudless that
the whole coast of Palestine could be seen, from Gaza in the
South to Mount Carmel in the North, and with so smooth a sea
that the much dreaded landing, in small boats and through
treacherous breakers, was made without the slightest difficulty.
Here then was the ancient port of Joppa, to which the work
men of Hiram, king of Tyre brought, "in flotes by sea" the
wood out of Lebanon, to be carried up to Jerusalem for the build
ing of Solomon's Temple, the present Jaffa being itself built of
the materials of the old cities of Tyre and Sidon and Cgesarea,
brought thither in these later days, also by the sea. Here was
the port from which Jonah took ship to flee into Tarshish from
the presence of the Lord, when commanded to "go to Nineveh,
that great city and cry against it." Here St. Peter came from
Lydda, near by, at the call of the disciples, to raise from the
dead, Tabitha, by interpretation called Dorcas, a woman "full
of good works and almsdeeds which she did." Here he tarried
many days with one Simon, a tanner, on whose housetop, when
at prayer, he received the wondrous vision which prepared him
for the message from Cornelius and the first preaching of the
Gospel to the Gentiles.
There was time to see the tomb of Tabitha, and to spend a
quiet half hour on that memorable housetop by the seaside,
climbing up by old and worn stone steps, past the ancient well
with its overshadowing fig tree, and looking off upon the blue
waters and the distant shores on which the Apostle's eyes must
have rested when they were opened to see that "God is no
respecter of persons, but in every nation he that feareth Him
and worketh righteousness is accepted with Him."
Then followed a drive all about Jaffa, an hour in a pleasant

A WEEK IN PALESTINE. 237
garden near the hotel, filled with flowers and tropical plants,
and overlooking orange groves and palm trees, with the town in
the distance, and bright glimpses of the blue Mediterranean, then
luncheon, and then a most interesting ride by railway, far less ob
jectionable in every way than one might suppose in merely think
ing in advance of such a method of approach to the Holy City.
The road runs through the Plain of Sharon and the Land of
the Philistines, brilliant with the early spring flowers, chief
among them the scarlet anemone, the "lily of the fields," pass
ing by Lydda, the home of the saints and of ./Eneas, sick of the
palsy for eight years, cured at St. Peter's word, ' "/Eneas, Jesus
Christ maketh thee whole"; Ramleh, the ancient Arimathea;
Hazarshual, where Samson slew the three hundred foxes; Zorah,
his birth-place, the rock of Etam, where he made his dwelling;
Ekron and Bethshemesh, where the Ark of the Lord rested, and
in sight in the distance, of the Valley of Ajalon, over which
Joshua commanded the moon to stand still; Latron, the reputed
home of the penitent thief, and Mizpah, name ever dear to those
who are " absent one from another."
The carriage road passes closer to some of these places, and
enables one to climb the Tower of Ramleh and obtain a wider
view of all the country round, and I should advise its being taken
one way, instead of going and returning also by rail. It is a ten
hours' drive, but if the day is fine it would repay one, though,
with an intelligent guide to point out from the train each spot of
special interest, it is not a matter of necessity.
Howard's Hotel, outside the Jaffa Gate, commands the best
view of the walls and city of Jerusalem, but the New Hotel just
inside the Jaffa Gate, where 1 stayed, seemed to me more inter
esting, partly because it is actually within the city, near all the
most important places, and built upon Mount Zion, and partly
because it is on the site of the Tower of Hananeel about which
the Prophet Jeremiah, prophesying of the final rebuilding of
Jerusalem, says: "It shall not be plucked up nor thrown down
any more forever," and "the city shall be built to the Lord from
the Tower of Hananeel."

238 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
The approach by the Jaffa Gate is not imposing, but the
moment one is within and looks up to the Tower of David, it
would be strange indeed if one could say at last with certainty,
"My feet shall stand within thy gates, O Jerusalem," and not
feel one's heart beat quicker and one's tears start, at the thought
of all that means.
A very few minutes found me on the roof of the hotel,
watching the sun set over the sacred places, learning to know
the whole city by heart, and lingering until the fair new moon
and the evening stars shone softly out, and the twilight deep
ened at last into the darkness.
The next morning early, the first of my four precious days,
I made my way through Zion Street and then through Christian
Street, first of all to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and spent
three hours quietly within its walls, going on a pilgrimage to
every shrine, and staying long by each spot made dear and holy
by the love and veneration of centuries, whether they were in
deed the very and real spots where the events so solemn and so
awful that they commemorate took place or not. It may rea
sonably be questioned whether one single church can cover all
the sites connected with the Crucifixion, the Burial and the Res
urrection of our Lord, but is it worth while to dwell much upon
that ? Somewhere near by there was a place called Calvary,
and "in the place where He was crucified there was a garden,
and in the garden a new sepulchre." It is at least as easy to
think of them all there, where myriads of devout souls have
worshipped, coming thither from every land where the Name of
Christ is named, as it would be elsewhere, and to join with the
Communion of Saints out of every nation and tribe and tongue
and every age, in the adoration of the Redeemer of the world.
Afterwards it seemed to me the same in walking slowly
through the Via Dolorosa, standing on the Pavement of Pilate's
Judgment Hall, visiting the house of St. Anne, which tradition
makes the home of the mother of the Blessed Virgin and the
place where the latter was born, the Pool of Bethesda, and then
St. Stephen's Gate, sacred to the first Martyr. It is a Holy

A WEEK IN PALESTINE. 239
Land indeed to every Christian, and it is needless to break its
charm by a too captious and incredulous spirit.
In the afternoon, on a donkey, I rode out over ground about
which there can be less dispute, to the Garden of Gethsemane,
to Bethany, with the reputed Tomb of Lazarus, and the ruins
of his home and that of his sisters Martha and Mary, and then
up to the Mount of Olives, staying there until after the sunset, and
riding slowly down again into the city, in the gathering gloom.
of night, through the Via Dolorosa, nearly emptied of the hur
rying crowd that filled it full by day, with again the soft light of
the new moon and the evening star shining before me all along
the way. The next day was Sunday, and if not altogether a day of
rest it was truly a day of refreshment, with six services, two in
Greek, two in Latin, and two in English to mark it. The morn
ing was spent in Jerusalem, at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
and at Christ Church on Mount Zion, opposite the Tower of
David, where the dear familiar Lessons and Collects and Creeds
and Hymns, particularly "Jerusalem the Golden, "took on a new
and fresh sweetness, and where the Celebration of the Holy
Communion seemed to be more closely linked with Heaven than
elsewhere. In the afternoon I drove by carriage out to Bethlehem, and
spent hours within the Church of the Holy Nativity and gazing
out upon the fields where the shepherds kept watch over their
flocks that Christmas Night, the same fields perhaps where
David had fed his flocks as a shepherd lad, and where Ruth had
gleaned after the reapers of Boaz. Other sheep with their
shepherd helped me to realize the earlier scenes, while within
the church the mothers with their babies among the worshippers,
and a devout Armenian priest telling to a class of tiny boys the
story of the Holy Child, as he took them through the sacred
grotto and directed their attention to the Manger and the Star,
gave one a very Christmas feeling that it was sweet to have.
After an early breakfast Monday morning, I started on a
donkey to fulfil, as literally as I was able, the command to

240 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
"Walk about Zion, and go round about her. and tell the towers
thereof." It was a most interesting forenoon, making the cir
cuit of the city on the outside, studying each near and distant
view from every point, and stopping often to view important
places — the Tomb of David and Solomon, the large "upper
room " in which tradition asserts that the Apostles were assembled
on the day of Pentecost, and where also the last Supper of our
Lord with His disciples was held, and the Palace of Caiaphas,
where is shown the prison of the Saviour, and the spot where
St. Peter stood when the cock crew at the hour of his denial.
Here are to be found the tombs of all the Armenian Patriarchs
who have died in Jerusalem, and many of their Bishops, marked
by slabs of pure white marble, elaborately and exquisitely carved
with all their signs of office, and near by is Bishop Gobat's
English school for boys, established forty years ago, and built
upon the rock upon which stood, perhaps even in the times of
the Jebusites, the most ancient wall of the city.
Returning by the way of the Damascus Gate, over the road
by which one could go to Nazareth, I stopped to call upon the
English bishop — Bishop Blyth — and to see the group of buildings
for work and worship and the training of workers, in which
many Americans have become interested through personal ac
quaintance and correspondence with his chaplain, Mr. Dowling.
The afternoon I devoted to that portion of the city within
the walls which I had not yet seen, save from a distance, visiting
the Mosque of Omar, built upon Mount Moriah, over the site of
Solomon's Temple, and where, in earlier days, David built an
altar unto the Lord and offered burnt offerings and peace offer
ings, and earlier still Abraham brought his son, his only son
Isaac, to offer him up at the command of God, from whom he
received instead the lamb to offer as a sacrifice.
Close by is the Mosque-el-Aska, built as a Christian Church
by the Emperor Justinian about the middle of the sixth century,
in which are still shown the supposed places of the vision to
Zacharias and the presentation in the Temple, and the spot
where our Lord was found talking with the Doctors. ,

A WEEK IN PALESTINE. 241
From this region, where without doubt much of the Master's
teaching and healing was done, as He walked in Solomon's
Porch and daily visited the Temple, my walk continued to the
sorrowful quarter of the Jews, their poor Synagogue and pa
thetic Wajling Place, a painful sight to see, and then to the Ar
menian Church of St. James, said to mark the site where he was
killed by the sword of Herod. It contains his tomb and chair,
and also three sacred stones, one taken from Mount Sinai
where Moses received the Law, one from the midst of the Jor
dan where the Israelites crossed, and the third from Mount
Tabor, the scene, as some suppose, of the Transfiguration.
Connected with the church is the Armenian Convent, one of
the largest buildings in the city, where it is said that 8,000 pil
grims can be lodged, and the home of the Armenian Patriarch,
who kindly received me and talked with me for some time about
the sorrows of his people and the Unity of the Church,
"Whether Greek, Latin, Armenian, English, American," he said,
" what matters ? We are all one in Christ Jesus."
Tuesday, my fourth and last day, after much consideration,
1 decided to give to an all-day drive to Hebron, by the Valley of
Eshcol and the Plains of Mamre. If I had had two days to
spare I might instead have gone to Jericho and the Dead Sea
and the Jordan, but from Mount Olivet I had looked down upon
the whole course of the Jordan, from the Jabbok to its entrance
into the Dead Sea, and across the blue waters of the sea itself
to the mountains of Moab, Mount Nebo rising above them all.
From that point also I had seen in the distance Bethel, as well as
Mizpah again, where I would gladly have spent a day visiting
also Shiloh, the site of the Tabernacle, and Ramah, the home of
Samuel and Emmaus, where I much wished to go; but on the
whole, the Promised Land of the Patriarchal Days proved to have
the greatest attractions for me, as a distinct addition to what I
had already been privileged to see.
It was a long day, beginning with an early start, soon after
seven in the morning, but a very happy one. Going out by the
Jaffa Gate and skirting Mount Zion, the road at first was the

242 THE SECOND JOURNEY.
same as to Bethlehem, passing the valley of Gihon, where Solo
mon was anointed, the hill of Evil Counsel, where Judas cove
nanted with the Chief Priests to betray our Lord, along the way
by which the wise men travelled, and past the well of which
tradition says they stopped to drink and in which they saw
again the Star in the East, reflected to lead them to the birth
place of the King of the Jews. Here the road begins to ascend,
through groves of olive trees on both sides, and a Greek Con
vent is passed called the Convent of St. Elijah, close by the spot
where the Prophet is said to have rested one night when he fled
from Jezebel. Then we came to Beit Jala, the ancient Lelah,
home of Kish and birth-place and sepulchre of Saul and Jona
than, and to the Tomb of Rachel, acknowledged and rever
enced by Jews and Mohammedans and Christians alike.
The road parts near this spot, but it was good to see Beth
lehem once more, and the Shepherd's plains. A half hour
farther on I came to Solomon's Pools, and spent some time in
wandering over the green fields, picking the wild flowers, en
joying the soft spring air and imagining that this was a long
month's expedition into the interior of the country, instead of
only one short, single day. Here is "the spring shut up, the
fountain sealed," of the Canticles, to be heard rushing far below
under the solid rock, and seen lower down in the three great
pools or reservoirs, from which the aqueducts of Solomon
formerly led the water to Mount Moriah.
All the way on the land was full of memories of the ancient
days, until at Mamre I rested, and ate my oriental luncheon,
spread for me there by my dragoman under Abraham's Oak,
while a large and therefore less favored party had theirs on the
grass under other trees below.
One lady whom I had talked with several times came up to
me and said, " I do envy you. I can never have a minute to
myself in which to meditate or think my own thoughts!" and
the Rev. Mr. Benson, son of the late Archbishop, came also to
break bread with me before taking his lunch elsewhere. Other
wise I had for my companions a few Russian pilgrims, of whom

' A WEEK IN PALESTINE. 243
I already met many in Jerusalem, and visions of Angels, enter
tained there long ago.
Over those lovely plains, green with the fresh young wheat
where a few men were ploughing, and bright with the flowers
of spring, the Father of the Faithful had often gazed, sitting in
his tent door in the heat of the day, there he had communed
with God and entered into covenant with Him, there Isaac had
been promised to him, and the whole land for a possession,
when as yet he was but a stranger in it.
A little later in the day I stood by the grave — "the cave of
Machpelah, in the field of Ephron, the son of Zohar, the
Hittite" — hidden now from view by a Mohammedan mosque,
into which no Christian is allowed to enter, where Abraham
was buried and Sarah his wife, Isaac and Rebekah his wife,
Leah, and last of all Jacob, brought back from Egypt by his
sons, in obedience to his dying command.
Travelling as I had done by the way of Suez into Egypt
[the telegraph lines following the old identical caravan route),
and across by Ismailia, through the land of Goshen, seeing the
probable place where Moses led the children of Israel across the
Red Sea, and the wells where they encamped and where Miriam
sang her song of triumph— it all seemed very near and real to
me, and I could picture much else that followed: the returning
spies with their great cluster of grapes, the land given as an in
heritance to Caleb, the seven years' reign here of King David
over Judah, and his anointing as king over all Israel. It was a
delightful day, and glad as I should have been to see still more
of the Holy Land, I was satisfied with all I had been able to see,
and most grateful for the privilege.
But best of all is Jerusalem. To see Salem the city of Mel-
chizedek, Mount Zion the city of David, Jerusalem the city of our
Lord, to stand upon the Mount of Olives, under the blue sky
into which He vanished from the gaze of His disciples on the
Day of the Ascension, and to hear the echo of the Angel's
words, "This same Jesus, which is taken up from you into
heaven, shall so come in like manner as ye have seen Him go up

244

THE SECOND JOURNEY.

into heaven," with Palestine, as it were, stretched out below in
panorama, is enough to make one happy indeed.
For the whole eight days of this journey I was blessed with
exceptionally beautiful weather, each day more lovely than the
last, each night more glorious still. Moreover, the city had
been washed by heavy rains but just before, and the streets
were clean as they are seldom seen by travellers. I look back
only upon sunshine and moonlight and most brilliant starry
skies, with soft spring air, green fields, and lovely flowers, and
see in my memory a golden halo over all the Holy Land, glorify
ing it, and making it like the verv Gate of Heaven.

SHEPHERD COUNTING HIS SHEEP.

List of Publications of the Junior Auxiliary Publishing- Co.,
2\\ State Street, Hartford, Conn.
ROUND ROBIN, PUBLISHED QUARTERLY.
SERIES FIRST.
The Mission Field.
1. INDIAN MISSIONS, Part I., by the Rev. Anthon T. Gesner.
2. WESTERN MISSIONS, by the Rev. Anthon T. Gesner.
3. JAPAN, by the Rev. Elliston J. Perot.
4. CHINA, by the Rev. S. C. Partridge and others.
5. AFRICA, a compilation from various sources.
6. GREECE, MEXICO AND HAITI, by Rev. U. H. Spencer (in part).
7. INDIAN MISSIONS, Part II., THE SIOUX OF SOUTH DAKOTA, by the
Rev. Anthon T. Gesner.
8. DIOCESAN MISSIONS, by the Rev. T. M. Peck and others.
9. INDIAN MISSIONS, Part III., by Bishop Ethelbert Talbot and the Rev.
H. L. Burleson.
10. CHURCH SCHOOLS IN THE WEST, by the Rev. A. T. Gesner.
11. THE BEGINNINGS OF THE CHURCH IN CALIFORNIA, by Bishop
Nichols.
12. INDIAN MISSIONS, Part IV., by the Rev. F. W. Crook.
13. NASHOTAH HOUSE, by the Rev. Prof. W. W. Webb.
14. INDIAN MISSIONS, Part V., ARIZONA, by Mrs. Bauer and others.
10 cents each. 12 numbers for $1.00.
SERIES SECOND.
Stories from the Mission Field.
1. AUNT SALLY, by Mrs. Buford, of Lawrenceville, Va.
2. DESTCHEWA, THE YOUNG ARAPAHOE, by Rev. John Roberts.
3. ANGELIQUE, by Miss Amelia Ives, St. Mary's School, Rosebud, S. D.
4. A VISIT TO ST. AUGUSTINE'S SCHOOL, by Miss Phcebe D. Natt.
5. BIOGRAPHY OF MOMOLU MASSAQUOI.
6. OPITCHI BIMISAY, by Miss Sybil Cakter, Deaconess.
7. IN THE EVERGLADES OF SOUTHERN FLORIDA, by Bishop Gray.
8. A VISIT TO NGANKING, by the Bishop of Shanghai.
9. MISSION LIFE AT POINT HOPE, ALASKA, by Dr. J. B. Driggs.
10. TWO FOUR-FOOTED MISSIONARIES, by Bishop Whipple, etc.
11. ROSETTA, by Miss E. Wheeler.
12. ONE OF OUR GIRLS, by Bishop Wells and Mrs. H. M. Bartlett.
13. A HILL-TOP PARISH, by Samuel Hart, D. D. (For Older Juniors.)
14. JUANCITO, by Belle G. Merrvlhes.
15. SOME LITTLE FOLK OF ST. AUGUSTINE'S KINDERGARTEN, by Mrs.
A. B. Hunter. 5 cents each. 1 2 numbers for 50 cents.
16. PICTURE BOOK FROM ALASKA, [iocents.l
17. JOURNEYINGS OF A JUNIOR IN JAPAN, by K. S. F. [20 cents.]

SERIES THIRD.
Missions of the Church of England.
2 and 3. THE.S. P. G. IN THE AMERICAN COLONIES, by the Rev. Joseph
Hooper, Tarts I. and II. Price, 10 cents each.
SOLDIER AND SERVANT SERIES.
Pioneers and Leaders of the Church In Great Britain and America.
JOHN KEBLE AND THE OXFORD MOVEMENT, by the Rev. Walker
Gwynne. Price 10 cents.
BISHOP PATTESON, by the late Bishop Elliott of Western Texas. Price
5 cents. ST. COLUMBA, by Bishop Nichols of California. Price 10 cents.
ST. AIDAN, by Bishop Doane of Albany. Price 10 cents.
ST. WULSTAN, by Miss Katharine F. Jackson. Price 10 cents.
GEORGE KEITH, by the Rev. Joseph Hooper. Price 10 cents.
RECOLLECTIONS OF BISHOP HOBART, by Bishop Coxe. Price 5 cents.
DR. WILLIAM CROSWELL, by the Rev. S. F. Hotchkin. Price 10 cents.
ARCHBISHOP CRANMER AND THE PRAYER BOOK, by the Rev. Samuel
Hart, Custodian of the Standard Prayer Book. Price 10 cents.
MARTYRS OF THE REFORMATION, by the Rev. Henry Ferguson, M. A.
Price 10 cents.
DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON, by the Rev. G. D. Johnson, D. D. Price 10 cents.
BISHOP WHITE OF PENNSYLVANIA, by the Rev. S. R. Colladay. Price
10 cents.
BISHOP HEBER IN INDIA. Price 10 cents.
BISHOP BERKELEY, by Edwin B. Woodruff. Price 10 cents.
BISHOP AUER OF CAPE PALMAS, by Miss M. T. Emery. Price 10 cents.
ST. ALBAN, by The Editor of " Cantica Sanctorum"; and ST. AUGUS
TINE, by Miss Katharine Frances Jackson. Price 10 cents.
BISHOP FIELD OF NEWFOUNDLAND, by Miss Julia C. Emery. Price 10
cents. BISHOP PHILANDER CHASE, a sketch. by his granddaughter. Price 10 cents.
ST. PATRICK AND THE CHURCH OF IRELAND, by the Rev. Walker
Gwynne. GEORGE LAWRENCE PILKINGTON, compiled by C. B. B.
$1.00 Subscribers -wilt receive a copy each of J2 numbers, as issued.
Special reduction to Sunday Schools and Societies on wholesale orders.
THE REFORMATION IN MEXICO. Price JO cents.
Gbe mMssionars leaflet £ l^g^- ^ {0^LTy
Classes: issued monthly. Annual subscription for the twelve numbers, postpaid,
15 cents. Ten or more copies to one address, annual subscription 10 cents. Sin
gle number, postpaid, 3 cents. Series I. The Missionary Chain, 12 numbers.
Series II. The Missionary Districts, 20. numbers. Series III; Missions of the Church
of England.
Address : MISS MARY E. BEACH, Sec'y,
Lock Drawer 13, Hartford, Conn.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 03097 2930