YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Bought with the income
of the
Henry Raup Wagner Fund
Yale 1884

ILLUSTRATED LONDON LIBRARY.

1^ &(!loniaiis

I

CAt'E iinnx.

LONDON: NATHANIEL COOKE,
MILFOKD HOUSE, STK.VND.

A WOMAN'S
JOFRKET EOIfflD THE WORLD,

VIENNA TO BRAZIL, CHILI, TAHITI, CHINA, HINDOSTAN,
PERSIA, AKD ASIA MIXOR.

AN UJN'ABKIDGED TEANSI.ATION PEOM THE GBEIIAN OF
IDA PFEIFFEE.
UiHTSTRATED WITH TINTED EHGKAVINQS.

imti\ €^iim.

LONDON: NATHANIEL COOKE,
MILFORD HOUSE, STRAND.

MDCCCMV.

LONDON :
PETTEE AND GALPIK, PLAYHOUSE YAKD,
ADJOINING THB "TIMES'" OFPIOE.

PEEFACE.

I HATE been called, in many of the public journals, a " professed
tourist ;" but I am sorry to say that I have no title to the appel
lation in its usual sense. On the one hand. I possess too Httle
wit and humour to render my writings amusing ; and, on the
other, too little knowledge to judge rightly of what I have gone
through. The only gift to which I can lay claim is that of nar
rating in a simple manner the different scenes in which I have
played a part, and the different objects I have beheld ; if I ever
pronounce an opinion, I do so merely on my own personal ex
perience. Many will perhaps believe that I undertook so long a journey
from vanity. I can only say in answer to this — whoever thinks
so should make such a trip himself, in order to gain the con
viction, that nothing but a natural wish for travel, a boundless
desire of acqjiiring knowledge, could ever enable a person to
overcome the hardships, privations, and dangers to which I
have been exposed.
In exactly the same manner as the artist feels an invincible
desire to paint, and the poet to give free course to- his thoughts,
so was I hurried away with an imconquerable wish to see the

•PREFACE.

world. In my youth I dreamed of traveUing— in my old age I
find amusement in reflecting on what I have beheld.
The pubhc received very favourably my plain unvarnished
account of « A Voyage to the Holy Land, and to Iceland and
^candhiavia." Emboldened by their kmdness, I once more step
forward with the journal of my last and most considerable
voyage, and I shall feel content if the narration of my adventures
procures for my readers only a portion of the immense fund ot
pleasure derived from the voyage by
THE AUTHORESS.
Vienna, Mareh 16, 1850.

With the hope that we may forward the views of the
authoress, and be the means of exciting the public attention to
her position and wants, we append the following statement by
Mr. A. Petermann, which appeared in the Athenmum of the
6th of December, 1851 :—
"Madame Pfeiffer came to London last April, -with the intention of
undertaking a &eali journey ; her love of travelling appearing not only un
abated, tut even augmented by the success of her joumey round the world.
She had planned, as her fourth undertaking, a joumey to some of those portions
of tha globe 'vrhich she had- not yet visited — namely, Australia and the
islands of the Asiatic Archipelago ; intending to proceed thither by the
usual route round tbe Cape. Her purpose -sras, however, changed wliile iu
London. The recently discovered Lake Ngami, in Southem Africa, aud the
interesting region to the north, towards the equator — the reflection how
successfully she had traveUed among savage tribes, where armed men

PREFACE. V
hesitated to penetrate, how well she had born aUi© the cold of Iceland aud
the heat of Babylonia — and lastly, the suggestion that she might be destined
to raise the veil from some of the totaUy unknown portions of the interior of
Africa — made her determine on stepping at the Cape, and trying to proceed
thence, if possible, northwards into tbe equatorial regions of ibo African
Continent. "Madame PfeiflTerleft for the Cape, ou the 22nd of May last, in a saUing
vessel — ^her usual mode of traveUing by sea, steamboats being too expensive.
She arrived safely at Cape To-svn on the llth of August, as I learned from
a letter which I received from her last week, dated the 20th of August.
from that letter the foUowing are extracts : —
" 'The impression which this place (Cape Town) made on me, was not an
agreeable one. The mountains surrounding the town are bare, the town it
self (London being stiU fresh in my recollection) resembles a viUage, The
houses are of only one story, with terraces instead of roofs. From the deok
of the vessel a single tree was visible, standing on a hiU. In short, on my
arrival I was at once much disappointed, and this disappointment rather in
creases than otherwise. In the town the European mode of living is
entirely prevalent — more so than in any other place abroad that I have seen.
I have made a ?nod many inquiries as to traveUiog into the interior ; and
have been, throughout, assured that the natives are everywhere kindly dis
posed to traveUers, and that as a woman I should be able to penetrate much
farther than a man, — and I have been strongly advised to undertake a joumey
as far as the unknown laies, and even beyond. StiU, -with aU these splendid
prospects and hopes, I fear I shaU travel less in this country than in any
other. Here, the first thing you are told is, that you must purchase wag
gons, oxen, horses, asses, — hire expensive guides, &c., &c. How far should
I reach in this way with my £100 sterling ? I wUl give you an example of
the charges in this coimtry :— for the carriage of my little luggage to my
lodgings I had to pay 10s. 6d. ! I had previously lauded in what I thought
the most expensive places in the world — London, Calcutta, Canton, &o. —
had everywhere a much greater distance to go from the vessel to my
lodgings, and nowhere had I paid half of what they charged me here.
Board and lodging I have also found very dear. Fortunately, I have been

»i PKEFACE.
very kindly received into the house of Mr. Thaewitzer, the Hamburgh eon-
Bul, where I Hve very agreeably, but do not much advance the object which
brought me here. I shaU, in the com-se of the month, undertake a short
joumey -with some Dutch boers to Klein Williams ; and I fear that this wiU
form the beginning and the end of my travels in this country.'
" From these extracts it -will be seen that the resolute lady has at her
command but very slender means for the performance of her journeys. The
sum of £100, which was granted to her by the Austrian government, forms
the whole of her funds. Private resources she has none. It took her twenty
years to save enough money to perform her first journey ! — namely, that
to the Holy Land. WhUe in London, she received scarcely any encourage
ment ; and her works were not appreciated by the public, or indeed known,
tiU she had left this country. It is to be regretted that the want of a little
pecuniary assistance should deter the enterprising lady from carrying out
her projected joumey in Southern Africa. Though not a scientific traveUer,
sho is a faithful recorder of what she sees and hears ; and she is prepared to
noto the bearings aud distances of the journey, make meteorological obser
vations, and keep a careful diary — so that the results of her projected joumey
would perhaps be of as much interest as those of other traveUers of greater
pretensions."

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

ATHENS  FuoNTispiECE.
CAPE HORN  Title.
RIO JANEIRO  Page 14
A STORM IN THE ATLANTIC  58
CHINESE FEAST OF LANTERNS  127
HINDOO ABLUTIONS AT BENARES  16G
THE TAJ.MEHAL  170
THE EOCK TEMPLES OF ELORA  218
JOURNEY WITH AN AHAB CAEAV.4.N  284
TEBRIS  291
A MISEATING HOEDE OF TAKTAES ... . . . . 20S
CONSTANTINOPLE .....  329

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER T.
The Voyage to the Brazils.
Dcpartm-e from Vienna— Stay in Hamburgh— Steamers and Sailing Vessels- '''°°
Departure from Hamburgli- Cuxhaven— The British Channel— Flying-flsh
— ThePhisolida- Constellations— Passing the Line— The "Vamperos"— A
GaleandStorm— Cape Ti-io— Arrival in the Port of Eio Janeii-o . . . i-H
CHAPTER n.
Aeeital and Sojourn in Rio Janeiro.
Introanction— Arrival— Description of the To-\vn— The Blacks, and their Rela
tions to the "Whites — Arts and Sciences — ^Festivals of the Church — Baptism
ofthe Imperial Princess— Fete in the Barracks- Climate and Vegetation-
Manners and Customs— A Few Words to Emigrants  1.V28
CHAPTER m.
Excursions in the Neighbouehood of Eio Janeiro.
The Waterfalls near Tesohoka- Boa Vista— The Botanical Gardens and their
Environs — The Corcovado Mountains, 2,253 feet above the level of the Sea —
Palaces of the Imperial Fainily— The newly-founded German Colony of Pe-
tropolis — ^Attempt at Murder, by a Marroon negro • . • . . 29-36
CHAPTEE IV.
Journey into the Interior of the Brazils.
The To-wnjs of Morroqueimadc (Novo Friburgo) and Aldea do Pedro — Plantations
ofthe Europeans — ^Burnins Forests —Last Settleraent of the Whites — ^Visit
to the Indians^ also called Puris or El bocles — Retum to Rio Janeiro . . 37-51
CFAPTER V.
The VoYACrE round Cape Horn.
Departure from Eio Jaaeiro— Santos and St. Paulo — Circumnavigation of C»js
Horn — ^The Straits of MageUan — ^Arrival iu Valparaiso — Sth Deeefiaber, 1846,
to2ndM!u:cll,184; ,  53-62
CHAPTEE VI.
Arrival and Residence in Valparaiso.
Appearance of the Town — Public Buildings — ^A few Observations on the Manners
and Customs of the Lower Classes— The Eating-houses of Polanka— The
Chemb (Angelito)— The Railroad— Gold and Silver Mines .... 63-69

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE VII.
The Voyaoe from Valparaiso to Canton, via Tahiti.
Departure from Valparaiso— Tahiti— Manners and Customs of the People— FSte
and Ball in Honour of Louis Philippe— Excursions—A Tahitian Dinner—
The Lake Vaihiriar-The Defile of Fantaua aud tbe Diadem— Departure-
Arrival in China  « 

CHAPTEE VIII.
China,
Macao— Hong-Kong— Victoria— Voyage onboard a Chinese Junk— The Si-Eiang,
called also the Tigris— Whampoa— Canton, or Kuangtscbeu-fu— Mode of
Life pursued' by Europeans — The Chinese Manners and Customs — Criminals
andPirates— Murder of VauohSe— Promenades and Excursions . . . 89-llJ
CHAPTEE IS.
The East Indies — Singapore.
ArrivalinHong-Kong— The English Steamer— Singapore Plantations— AHunt-
¦ ing Party in the Jungle— A Chinese Funeral — The Feast of Lanterns —
Temperature and Climate  116-127
CHAPTER X.
The East Indies— Cetlon.
Departure from Singapore— The Island df Pinang — Ceylon — Pointe de Galle —
Excursion into the Interibr — Colombo — Candy — The Temple of Dagoha —
Elephant HuntH-Eetum to Colomho and Pointe de Galle .... 128-13S
CHAPTER XI.
Madras and Calcutta.
Departure from Ceylon— Madras— Calcutta-Mode of Life of the Em-opeans-
The Hindoos— Principal Objects of Interest in the Town- Visit to aBaboo—
Religious Festivals of the Hindoos— Houses of Death and Places for Burn
ing the Dead— Mahomedan and European Marriage Ceremonies . . . 139-155,

CHAPTER xn.
Benares.
Departure fi-om Calcutta- Entrance into the Ganges— Rajmahal-Gur-Jun-
ghera — Monghyr — Patna — ^Deinat}Oor — Gcsipoor — Benares — Religion of the
Hindoos— Description of the Town — Palaces and Temples — The Holy Places
The Holy Apes— The Ruins of Saranth— An Indigo Plantation— A Visit to
the Rajah of Benares— Martj'rs and Fakirs— The Indian Peasant — The Mis
sionary Establishment  158~173'

CONTENTS. SI
CHAPTER XIII.
Allahabad, Aora, and Delhi. FAQE
Allahabad— Caunipoor— Agra— The Mausoleum of Sultan Akbar, Taj-Mehal—
The Ruined Town of Fattipoor-Siki-l- DeUii— Tho Main SU-eet— PubUo Pro
cessions — The Emperor's Palace — Palaces and Mosques— Old Delhi — Re-
mai-kable Ruins — The English Military Station  174-191
CHAPTER XIV.
Journey from Delhi to Bombay.
Xhe Thugs or Stranglers — ^Departure — Cattle-market — ^Baratpoor — ^Biana-^ Wells
and Ponds — Good-nature of the Indians — Poppy Plantations— The Suttis —
Notara — Kottah — Description of the ToAvn — The Royal Palace of Armor-
nevas — ^Amusements and Dances — The Holy ViUage of Kesho-Rae-Patum . 192-205
CHAPTER XV.
Journey from Delhi to Bombay, Continued.
Travelling on Indian Camels — ^My Meeting with the Burden Family — The Dif
ferent Classes of Women among the Native Population in India — Udjein —
Captain Hamilton — Introduction at Court— Manufacture of Ice — The Eock
Temples of Adjuuta — A Tiger Hunt>— The Rock Temples of Elora — The
Fortress of Dowlutabad  206-220
CHAPTER XVI.
Continuation of Journey and Sojourn.
Am-aiyabad- Puna— East Indian Marriages— The FooUsh Waggoner— Bombay
— ^The Parsees, or Fire-Worshippers — Indian Burial Ceremonies — The Island
ofElephanta— The Island of Salsetta  221-231
CHAPTEE XVII.
From Bombay to Baghdad.
Departure from Bombay— SmaU-pox— Musoat—Bandr-Abas— The Persians— The
Kishma Straits— Busohir-Entranoe into the Sohatcl-Arab— Bassora— En
trance into the Tigris— Bedouin Tribes— Ctesiphon and Seleucia— Arrival at
Baghdad  235-214
CHAPTEE XVIII.
Mesopotamia, Baghdad, and Babylon.
Baghdad— Principal BuUdings— CUmate— Entertainment at the English Resi
dent's—Harem of the Pasha ot Baghdad— Exom-sion to the Euins ot Ctesi
phon— The Persian Prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza- Excursion to the
Ruins ot Babylon— Departure from Baghdad  215-258

xu CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIX.
Mosul and Nineveh. ^^^^
Journey of the Caravan through the Desert— Arrival at Mdsul— Curiosities-
Excursion to the Euins of Nineveh and the Village of Nebbi Tunus— Second
Excursion to the Euins of Nineveh— Tel-Nimroud— Arabian Horses— De
parture from Mfisul  259-270
CHAPTER XX.
Persia.
Journey of the Caravan to Eavandus— Arrival at and Stay in Ravandns — A
Kurdish Family— Continuation of the Joumey— Sauh-Bulak—Oroinia-
American Missionaries — Kutschifi- Three generous Eobbers — Persian Ehans
and English Bungalows— Arrival at Tebris ....... 271-290
CHAPTEE XXI.
Sojourn in Tebris.
Description of the Town — Tbe Town — ^Period of Fasting — Behmen-Mirza — ^Anec
dotes of the Persian Government — ^Introduction to the Viceroy and his Wife
— ^Beljmen-Mirza's Wives — ^Visit to a Persian Lady — Persecution of the
Lower Classes, of the Christians, and of the Jews — Departure , , . 291-29D
CHAPTEE XXIL
Asiatic Eussia — Armenia, Georgia, and Minoeelia.
Sophia— Marand— The Russian Fronticr—Natschivan— Joumey of the Caravan
— A Night's Imprisonment — Continuation of the Joumey — Erivan — The
Eussian Post— The Tartars— Arrival in Tiflis— Sojoum there— Continuation
of the Journey— Kutais— Marand— Trip on the Ribon— Redutkale . . 300-317
CHAPTER XXni.
European Russia.
Departure from Redutkale- Attack of Cholera— Anapka—Suspicions Ship—
Kertsch— The Museum— TumuU— Continuation of the Journey— Theodosia
(CaffaJ— Prince WoronzofF's Palace— The Fortress of Sewastopal— Odessa . 318-328
CHAPTEE XXrV.
Constantinople and Athens,
Constantinople-Changes— Two Fires-Voyage to Greece-Quarantine at ^gina
—A Day in Athens— Calamachi : the Isthmus— Patras— Corfu . . , 329-333

A WOMAN'S
JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER 1.
THE VOYAGE TO THE BP^ZILS.
Departure from Vienna — Stay in Hamburgh— Steamers and Sailing Vessels —
Departure from Hamburgh — Cuxhaven — The British Channel — Fl-ying-fish —
The Phisolida— Constellations — Passing the Line — The "Vamperos" — A Gale
AND Storm — Cape Frio — ^Arrival in the Pout of Rio Janeiro.
On the first of May, 1846, I left Vienna, and, -with the exception of
slight stoppages at Prague, Dresden, and Leipsic, proceeded directly
to Hamburgh, there to embark for the Brazils. In Prague I had the
pleasure of meeting Count Berchthold, who had accompanied me-
during a portion of my journey in the East. He informed me that
he should like to be my companion in the voyage to the Brazils, and'
I promised to wait for him in Hamburgh.
I had a second most interesting meeting on the steamer from-
Prague to Dresden, namely, -with the widow of Professor Mikan. In

2 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND TIIE WORLD.
the year 1817, this lady had, on the occasion of the marriage of the
Austrian Princess Leopaldine vrith Don Pedro I., followed her hus
band to the Brazils, and afterwards made with him a scientific journey
into the interior of the country.
I had often heard this lady's name mentioned, and my joy at
making her personal acquaintance was very great. In the kmdest
and most amiable manner she communicated to me the results ot her
long experience, and added advice and rules of conduct, which proved
afterwards highly useful.
I arrived in Hamburgh on the 12th of May ; and, as early as the
13th, might have embarked on board a flme fast-sailing brig, which,
besides, was christened the " Ida," like myself. With a heavy heart
I saw this flne vessel set saU. I was obHged to remain behind, as I
had promised my travelUng companion to await his arrival. Week
after week elapsed, with nothing but the fact of my staying with my
relatives to Ughten the dreariness of susjiiense; at last, about the
middle of June, the Cojmt came, and shortly afterwards we found
a vessel— a Danish brf^ flie " Caroline^" Captain Bock, bound for
Bio Janeiro.
I had now before me a long voyage, which could not be made
under two months at the least, and wHch, possibly, might last three
or four. Luckily I had already lived for a considerable period on
board sailing vessels daring my former travels, and was therefore
acquainted with their arrangements, which are very different from
those of steamers. On board a steamer everything is agreeable and
luxurious; the vessel pursues her rapid com-se independent of the
¦wind, and the passengers enjoy good and fresh provisions, spacious
cabins, and excellent society.
In saiUng vessels all this is very different, as, with the exception
of the large East Indiamen, they are not fitted up for passengers. In
them the cargo is looked upon as the principal thing, and in the eyes
of the crew passengers are a troublesome addition, whose comfort is
generally very little studied. The captain is the only person who
tates any interest in them, since a third or even the half of the passage-
money falls to his share.
The space, too, is so confined, that you can hardly turn yourself
round in the sleeping cabins, while it is quite impossible to stand
upright in the berths. Besides this, the motion of a sailing vessel is
much stronger than that of a steamer ; on the latter, however, many
affirm that the eternal vibration, and the disagreeable odour of the
oil and coals, are totally insupportable. For my own part, I never
found this to be the case ; it certainlv is unpleasant, but much easier
to bear than the many inconveniences always existing on J^ard a
saiUng vessel._ The passenger is there a complete slave ^^^very
whim or caprice of the captain, who is an absolute sovereign aMfLolds
uncontroUed sway over everything. Even the food dependl}upon
liis, generosity, and although it is generally not absolutely bad, inthe
best instances, it is not equal to that on board a steamer.
The following form the ordinary diet: tea and coffee without
milk, bacon and jUnk, soup made with pease or cabbage, potatoes
hard flumplings, salted cod, and ship-biscuit. On rai-e occasions, ham

DEPARTURE FEOM HAMBURGH. 3
eggs, fish, pancakes, or even skinny fo-wls, are served out. It is very
seldom, in small ships, that bread can be procm-cd.
To render the living more palatable, especiaUy on a long voyage,
passengers would do well to take with them a lew additions to Sio
sliip's fare. The most suitable are : portable soup and captain's bis
cuit — both of which should be kept in tin canisters to preserve them
from mouldiness and insects — a good quantity of eggs, which, when
the vessel is bound for a southern climate, should first bo dipped iu
strong lime-water or packed in coal-dust ; rice, potatoes, sugar, butter,
and all the ingredients for making sangaree and potato- salad, the former
being very strengthening and the latter very cooUng. I would stronglj-
recommend those who have children with them to take a goat as well.
As regards wine, passengers should take especial care to ask the
captain whether tliis is included in the passage-money, otherwise it
will have to be purchased from him at a very high rate.
There are also other objects which must not be forgotten, and
above all a mattress, bolster, and counterpane, as the berths are gene
rally unfurnished. These can be pm-chased very cheaply in any sea
port town.
Besides this, it is likewise advisable to take a stock of coloured
linen. The office of washerwoman is filled by a sailor, so that it may
easily bo imagined that tho linen does not return from the wash in
the best possible condition.
When the sailors are employed in shifting tho sails, great care
must be taken to avoid injury by the falling of any of the ropes.
But all these inconveniences are.comparatively trifling ; the great
est amount of annoyance begins towards the end of the voyage. Tho
captain's mistress is his ship. At sea he allows her to wear an easy
neglige, but in port she must appear in full dress. Not a sign of the
long voyage, of the storms, of the glowing heat she has suflered, must
be visible. Then begins an incessant hammering, planing, aud saw
ing; every flaw, every crack or injury is made good, and, to w-ind up,
the whole vessel is painted afresh. The worst of all, however, is tho
hammering when the cracks in the deck are being repaired and filled
up -with pitch. This is almost unbeai-able.
But enough of annoyances. I have described them merely to pre
pare, in some degree, those who have never been to sea. Persons
residing in sea-port towns do not, perhaps, standin need of this, for they
hear these matters mentioned every day ; but such is not tbecase willi
us poor souls, who have lived all our lives in inland cities. Very
often we hardly know how a steamer or a sailing vessel looks, much less
the mode of life on board them. I speak from experience, and know
too weU what I myself suffered on my first voyage, simply because,
not having been warned beforehand, I took nothing with me save a
small stock of linen and clothes.
At present I will proceed with the progress of my voyage. We
embarked on the evening of the 28th of June, and weighed anchor
before daybreak of the 29th. The voyage did not commence in any
verv eneouragiag manner ; we had veiy little, in fact almost no wind
at all, and compared to us every pedestrian appeared to be running
a race : we made the nine miles to Blankonese in seven hours.

1 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
Luckily the slow rate at which we proceeded was not so disagree
able, as, at first, for a considerable period we beheld the magnificent
port, and afterwards could admire, on the Holstein side, the beautiful
counti-y houses of the rich Hamburghers, situated upon charmmg
eminences and sm-rounded by lovely gardens. The opposite side, be
longing to Hanover, is as fiat and monotonous as the other is beautiiul.
About here the Elbe, in many places, is from three to four miles broad.
Before reaching Blankenese the ships take in their stock of water
fr-om the Elbe. This water, although ofa dirty and thick appearance,
is said to possess the valuable quality of resisting putridity for
years. We did not reach Gliickstadt (37 miles from Hamburgh) before the
morning of the 30th. As there was not now a breath of wind, -^ve
were entirely at the mercy of the stream, and began drifting back.
The captain, therefore, ordered the men to cast anchor, and profited
by the leisure thus forced upon him to have the chests and boxes
made fast on tho deck and in the hold. We idlers had permission
granted us to land and visit the town, in which, however, we found
but little to admire.
There were eight passengers on board. The four cabin places were
taken by Count B  , myself, and two young people who hoped to
make their fortune sooner in the Brazils than in Europe. The price
ofa passage in the flrst cabin was 100 doUai's (£20 16s. 8d.), and in
the steerage 50 dollars (£10 8s. id.).
In the steerage, besides two worthy tradesmen, was a poor old
woman who was going, in compliance with the wish of her only son,
who had settled in the Brazils, to join him there, and a married
woman whose husband had been working as a tailor for the last six
years in Rio Janeiro. People soon become acquainted on board ship,
and generally endeavour to agree as well as possible, in order to
render the monotony of a long voyage at all supportable.
On the 1st of July we again set sail in rather stormy weather. We
made a few miles, but were soon obliged to cast anchor once more.
The Elbe is here so wide, that we could hardly see its banks, and the
swell so strong, that sea-sickness began to manifest itself among our
compa,ny. On the 2nd of July, we again attempted to weigh anchor,
but with no better success than the day before. Towards evenin"-
we saw some dolphins, called also tummler, or tumblers, as weU as
several guUs, which announced to us that we were fast nearing the sea-
A great many vessels passed quickly by us. Ah ! they could turn
to account the storm and wind which swelled out their sails, and
drove them rapidly tovi^ards the neighbouring port. We grudo-ed
them their good fortune ; and perhaps we had to thank this specimen
of Christian love on our part, that on the Srd of July, we had not "ot
further than Cuxhaven, seventy-four miles from Hambur"-h. "
The 4th of July was a beautifully fine day, for those w°ho could re
main quietly on shore ; but for those ou board ship it was bad enouo-h
as there was not the slightest breath of -wind stirring. To get ricfof
our lamentations, the captain launched out in praises of the charmino-
little town, and had us conveyed to land. We visited the town as
well as the bathing establishment and the Ughthouse, and afterwards

CUXIIAVEX— HELIGOLAND. 5
actually proceeded as far as a place called the " Bush," whore, as wo
were told, we should find a great abundance of strawberries. After
wanderino; about, over fields and meadows, for a good hour in the
glowing heat, we found the Bush, it is true, but instead of straw
berries, discovered only frogs and adders there.
We now proceeded into the scanty wood, where we saw about
twenty tents erected. A bustling landlord came up, and offering us
some glasses of bad milk, said that every year a fair is hold in the
Bush for tiiree weeks, or rather, on three successive Sundays, for
^luring the week days the booths ai-e closed. The landlady also came
tripping towards us, and invited us, in u. very friendly manner, to
spend the next Sunday with them. She assured us that we should
^' amuse ourselves charmingly;" tliat -we elder members of the com
pany should find entertainment in the wonderful performances of the
tumblers and jugglers, and the younger gentlemen find spruce young
.gii-ls for partners iu the dance.
We expressed ourselves much pleased at this invitation, promised
to be sure to come, and then extended our walk to Ritzebiittel, where
we admired a small castle and a miniature park.
5th July. Jvothiug is so changeable as the weather : yesterday
we were reveUing in sunshine, and to-day we were surrounded by a
thick, dark fog; and yet this, bad as it was, we found more agreeable
than the fine weather of the day before, for a slight breeze sprang up,
and at nine o'clock in the morning, we heard the rattling of the cap
stan, as the anclior was being weighed. In consequence of this, tho
young people were obUged to give up the idea of an excursion to the
Bush, and defer aU dancing with pretty girls until their arrival in
-another hemisphere, for it was fated that they should not set foot in
Europe again.
The transition from the Elbe to the North Sea is scarcely percep
tible, as the Elbe is not divided into different channels, but is eight
¦ or ten miles broad at its mouth. It almost forms a small sea of itseU',
and has even the green hue of one. We were, consequently, very
much surprised, on hearing the captain exclaim, in a joyful tone,
¦" AVe are out of the river at last." We imagined that we had long
since been saiUng upon the wide ocean.
In the afternoon, we bore in sight of the island of Heligoland,
which belongs to the EngUsh, and presented really a magical appear
ance, as it rose out from the sea. It is a barren, colossal rock ; and
had I not learned, from one of the newest works on geography, that
it was peopled by about 2,500 souls, I should have supposed the whole
island to have been uninhabited. On three sides, the cliffs rise so
precipitously from the waves, that all access is impossible.
We sailed by the place at a considerable distance, and saw only
the towers of the church and lighthouse, in addition to the so-called
" Monk," a solitary, perpendicular rock, that is separated from the
main' body, between which and it there sparkles a small strip of sea.
The inhabitants are very poor. The only sources of their liveli
hood are fishing and bathing visitors. A great number of the latter
come every year,, as the bathing, on account of the extraordinary
Bwell, is reckoned extremely efiicacious. Unfortunately, great fears
B 2

6 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
are entertained that this watering-place cannot exist much longer, aw
every year the island decreases in size, from the continual falling
away of large nsasses of rock, so that some day the whole place may
disappear into the Sea.
From the 5th to the 10th of July, we had continued stormy and.
cold weather, with a heavy sea, and great rolUng of the ship. All
we poor " land-lubbers" were suffering from sea sickness. We flrst
entered the British Channel, also called " La Manche" (420 miles fi-om
Cuxhaven) iu the night of the lO-Uth.
We awaited with impatience tlie rising of the sun, which would
display to oar gaze two of the mightiest powers in Europe. Luckily,
the day was flne and clear, and the two kingdoms lay before us,_m
sucli mas-nificence and proximity, that the beholder was almost in
clined to believe that a sister people inhabited both countries.
On the coast of England, we saw the North Foreland, the Castle
cf Sandown, and the town of Deal, stretching out at the foot of
the cliffs, which extend for many miles, and are about 150 feet liigh..
Further on, we came in sight of the South Foreland ; and lastly, the
ancient castle of Dover, that sits right bravely enthroned upon an
eminence, and overlooks the surrounding country, far and wide. The
town itself Ues upon the sea-shore.
Opposite Dover, at the narrowest part of the channel, we distin
guished, on the French coast, Cape Grisnfiz, where Napoleon erected
a small buUding, in order, it is said, to be at least able to see England;:
and, further on, the obelisk raised in memory of the camp at Boulogne,
by Napoleon, but completed under Louis Philippe.
The -wind being unfavourable, we were obUged, during the night,
to tack in the neighbourhood of Dover. The great darkness which
covered both land and sea rendered this maneuvre a very dangerous
one ; firstly, on account of the proximity of the coast; and, secondly,
on account of the number of vessels passing up and down the channel.
To avoid a colUsion, we hung out a lantern on the foremast, while,
from time to time, a torch was Ughted, and held over the side, and
the bell frequently kept sounding : all very alarming occurrences ta
a person unused to the sea.
For fourteen days were we prisoners in the 360 miles of the
Channel, remaining very often two or three days, as if spell-bound,
in the same place, while we were frequently obUged to cruise for
v/hole days to make merely a few miles ; and near Start we were-
overtaken by a tolerably violent storm. During the night I was.
suddenly called upon deck. I imagined that some misfortune had
happened, and hastily throwing a few clothes on, hurried up— to-
enjoy the astonishing spectacle of a " sea-fire." In the wake of the-
vessel I beheld a streak of fire so strong that it would have been
easy to read by its light; the water round the ship looked like a
glowmg stream of lava, and everv wave, as it rose up, thi-ew out
sparks of fire. The track of the fish was surrounded by an
inimitable briUiancy, and fai- and wide everytMng was one dazzling
coruscation. '
This extraordinary iUuminatiou of the sea is of very unfrequent
occurrence, and ra-.-ely happens after long-continued, violent storms.

GIBRALTAR — MOROCCO. 7
The captain told rae that he had never yet beheld the sea so lighted
up. For my part, I shall never forget the sight.
A second, and hardly less beautiful, spectacle came under our
observation at another time, when, after a storm, tho clouds, gilt by
the rays of the sun, were reilected as in a mirror on tho bosom of the
sea. They gUttered and shone with an intensity of colour which sur
passed even those of the rainbow.
A\ c had full leisure to contemplate Eddystone Lighthouse, which
is the most celebrated building of the kind in Europe, as we -were
cruising about for two days in sight of it. Its height, and the bold
ness and strength with which it is built, are truly wonderful ; but still
more wonderful is its position upon a dangerous reef, situated ten
mUes from the coast ; at a distance, it seems to be founded in the sea
itself. We often sailed so near the coast of Cornwall, that not only could
we plainly perceive every village, but even tlie people in the streets
aud in the open country. The land is liilly and luxm-iant, and ap
pears carefully cultivated.
During the whole time of our cruising in the Channel, the tem
perature was cold and raw, the thermometer seldom being higher
than 65° to 75° Fah.
At last, on the 24th of July, we came to the end of the Channel,
and attained the open sea; the wind was tolerably favom-able, and on
the 2nd of August we were off Gibraltar, where we were becalmed
for twenty-four hours. The captain threw several pieces of white
crockeryware, as well as a number of large bones overboard, to show
how beautifully gi-een such objects appeared as they slowly sank down
beneath the sea ; of course this ean only be seen in a perfect calm.
In the evening we were greatly deUghted by numbers of moluscie
shUling through the water ; they looked exactly Uke so many float
ing stars, about the size of a man's hand; even by day we could per
ceive tliem beneath the waves. They are of a'brownish red, and in
form resemble a toadstool; many had a thick pedicle, somewhat
fimbriated on the under part ; others, instead of the pedicle, had a
number of threads hanging down from them. ,
4th August. This was the first day that it was announced by the"
heat that wo wore in a southern latitude ; but, a,s was also the case
the following day, the clear dark blue sky that generally overarches
the Mediterranean in such exceeding loveliness, was still wanting.
We found, however, some slight compensation for this in the rising
and setting of the sun, as these were often accompanied by unusual
forms and colours ofthe clouds.
We were now off Morocco, and were fortunate enough to-day to
perceive a great number of bonitos. Every one on board bestirred
himself, and on every side fish-hooks -were cast overboard; unluckily
¦only one bonito allowed himself to be entrapped by our friendly in
vitations ; he made a dart at the bait, and his good-naturedconfidence
.procured us a fresh meal, of which we had long been deprived.
On the 5th of August we saw land for the flrst time for twelve
^ays. The sun was rising as the little island of Porto Santo greeted
-our sight. It is formed of peaked mountains, -o'liioh, by then- shape,

8 A WOM.iN'S JOURNEY HOUND THE WORLD.
betray their volcanic origin. Afew mUes in advance of the islana
stands the beautiful Falcon Rock, lilce a sentinel upon the look-out.
We sailed past Madeira (23 miles from Porto Santo) the same
day, but unluckily at such a distance that we could only perceive the
long mountain chains by which the island is intersected. Near
Madeira Ue the rocky Deserta Islands, which are reckoned as forming
part of Africa. i. j •,
Near these islands we passed a vessel running under reeled sails
before the wind, whence the captain concluded that she was a cruiser
looking after slavers.
On the 6th of August we beheld, for the flrst time, flying fish, but.
at such a distance that we could scarcely distinguish them. '
On the 7th of August we neared the Canary Isles, but unfortu
nately, on account of the thick fog, we could not see them. We now
caught the trade wind, that blows from the east, and is anxiously
desired by ali sailors.
In the night of the 9-lOth we entered the tropics. We were now
in daily expectation of greater heat and a clearer sky, but met -with
neither. The atmosphere was dull and hazy, and even in our own
raw fatherland the sky could not have been so overcast, except upon.
some days in November. Every eveniag the clouds were piled upon
one another in such a way that we were continuaUy expecting to seo
a water-spout ; it was generally not before midnight that the heavens.
would gradually clear up, and allow us to admire the beautiful and
dazzling constellations ofthe South.
The captain told us that this was tlie fourteenth voyage he had;
made to the Brazils, during which time he had always found the heat
very easily borne, and had never seen the sky otherwise than dull audi
lowering. He said that this was occasioned by the damp, unhealthy
coast of Guinea, the ill effects of -ivluch were perceptible much further
than where we then were, although the distance between us -was 350-
miles. In the tropics the quick transition from day to night is already
very perceptible; 35 or 40 minutes after tho setting of the sun the
deepest darkness reigns around. The difference in the length of
day and night decreases more and more the nearer you approach
tho Equator. At the Equator itself tlie day and night are of equal
duration. AU the 14th and 15tli of August we sailed parallel with the Capo
de Verde Islands, from which we were not more than 23 miles dis
tant, but which, on account of the hazy state of the weather, we
could not see.
During this period we used to be much amused by small flocks of
flying-flsh, which very often rose from the water so near the ship's
side that we were enabled to examine them minutely. Thev are-
generally of the size and colour of a herring; their side fins, how
ever, are longer and broader, and they have the power of spreadino-
and closing them Uke little wings. They raise themselves abouT
twelve or fifteen feet above the water, and then, after flying more
than a distance of a hundred feet, dive down again for a moment
ooneath tho waves, to recommence directly afterwards : this occui-s

THE PUTSOLIDA. 9
most frequently Avhcn they aro pursued by bonitos or other foes.
When they were fiying at some distance from the ship they really
looked like elegant Wds. We very frequently saw the bonitos also,
who were pursuing theni, endeavour to raise themselves above tho
water, but they seldom succeeded in raising more than their head.
It is very difiicult to catch one of these little denizens of the au-,
as they are to be secured neither by nets or hooks ; but sometimes the
¦wind will drive them, dm-ing the night, upon the deck, where they
aro discovered, in the morning, dead, not having sufficient strength
to raise themselves from dry places ; in this way I obtained a few
specimens. To-day, August 15th, we enjoyed a most interesting sight. We
happened, exactly at 12 o'clock, to be in the smi's zenith, and the
sunbeams fell so perpendicularly that every object was perfectly
shadowless. We put books, chafrs, ourselves in the sun, and were
highly deUghted with this unusual kind of amusement. Lucidly we
had chanced to be at the right spot at the right time ; had we, at the
same hour, been only one degree nearer or one degree further, we
should have lost the entfre-sight ; when we saw it we were 14° 6*
(a minute is equal to a nautical mile).
AUcobservations -with the sextant* were out of the question until
we were once more some degrees from the zenith.
17th August. Shoals of tunny-fish, (flsh four and flve feet long,
and belonging to the dolphin tribe,) were seen tumbling about the
ship. A harpoon was quickly procured, and one of the saUors sent
out -with it on the bowsprit ; but whether he had bad luck, or was
unskiUed in the art of harpooning, he missed his mark. The most
wonderful part of the story, though, was that all the fish disappeared
as if by magic, and did not appear again for some days ; it seemed
as if they had whispered and warned each other of the threatened
danger. All the oftener, however, did we see another inhabitant of the sea,
namely, that beautiful mollusca, the physolida, caUed by the sailors
Portugiesisches Segel-scMff, (Portuguese sailing-ship). When floating
upon the surface of the sea, -with its long crest, which it can elevate or
depress at pleasure, it reaUy resembles a delicate tiny Uttle sailing
vessel. I was very desirous of catching one of these Uttle creatures, but
this could only be effected by means of a net, which I had not got, nor
had I either needle or t-wine to make one. Necessity, however, is the
mother of invention ; so I manufactured a knitting needle of wood,
unravelled some thick string, and in a few hom-s possessed a net.
Very soon afterwards a mollusca had been captured, and placed in a
tub fiUed with sea water. The little creature's body is about sis
inches long and two inches high ; the crest extends over the whole
of the back, and in the middle, where it is highest, measures about
an inch and a half. Both the crest and body are transparent, and
» The sextant is a mathematical instrument by -which the different degrees of longi
tude and latitude are determined, and the hour known. The chronometers also are set
by it. In order to flnd the latitude the ship is in, an observation is taken at noon, but
only -when the sun shines. This last is absolutely necessary, since it is from the shadow
oast upon the flgures of the instrument that the reckoning is made. The longitude can
be determined both morning and afternoon, as the sun, in this case, is not necessary.

10 A WOMAN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
appear as if tinged -with rose colour ; from the belly, which is violet,
are suspended a number of threads or arms of the same colour.
I hung the little thing up to dry at the stern, outside the ship ;
some of the threads reached down into the water (a depth of at least
twelve feet), but most of them feU off. After the animal was dead,
the crest remained erect, and the body perfectly filled out, but the
beautiful rose colour graduaUy changed to white.
18th August. To-day we had a hea-yy thunder-storm, for which
we were very grateful, as it cooled the air considerably. Between
1° and 2°, or 3° North latitude, frequent changes in the weather
are very common. For instance, on the morning of the 20th we vrere
overtaken by a strong wind, which lashed up the sea to a great
height, and continued until evening, when it gave way to a tropical
shower, which we at home should call a perfect water-spont. The
deok was instantaneously transformed into a lake, while at the same
time the wind had so completely faUen that even the rudder enjoyed
a hoUday. This rain cost me a night's rest, for when I went to take posses
sion of my berth, I found the bed-clothes drenched tiirough and
through, and was fain to content myself with a wooden bench for a
couch. On the 27th of August we got beyond these hostile latitudes, and
were received by the anxiously desfred south-east trade wind, which
hurried us quickly on our voyage.
We were now very near the Equator, and, like all other traveUers,
wished very much to see the celebrated constellations of the south.
I myself was most mterested in the Southern Cross ; and, as I could not
flnd it among the stars, I begged the captain to point it out to me. Both
he and the first mate, however, said that they had never heai-d of it,
and the second mate was the only one to whom it did not appear
entfrely unknown. With his help, we really did discover in tlie span
gled firmament four stars, which had something of the form of a
somewhat crooked cross, but were certainly not remarkable in them
selves, nor did they excite the least enthusiasm amongst us. A most
magnificent spectacle was, on the conti-ary, formed by Orion, Jupiter,
and Venus ; the latter, indeed, shone so brilUantly tliat her gleams
formed a sUver furrow across the waves.
The great frequency of falUng stars is another fact that I cannot
corroborate. They are, perhaps, more fr-equent than in cold cUmates,
but are far from being as common as is said : aud as for their size
I saw only one which surpassed ours ; and this appeared about three
times as large as an ordinary star.
For some days also we had now seen the Cape, or Mao-eUan's
Clouds, and also the so-caUed Black Cloud. The first are brioht and
like the Milky Way, are formed of numberless small stars, fnvisible
to the naked eye ; the latter presents a black appearance, and is said
to be produced by the absence of all stars whatever from this part of
the heavens.
AU these different signs prepared us for the most interestino-
moment of our voyage — namely, passing the line. "
On the 29th of August, at 10 o'clock p.m., we saluted the southern

PASSING TIIE LINE — THE VAMPEROS. 11
hemisphere for the first time. A feeling nearly allied to pride
excited every oue, but moro especially those who crossed tho line for
the first time. We shook each other by the hand, and congratu
lated one another mutually, as if we had done somo great and heroic
deed. One of the passengers had brought with him a bottle or two
of champagne to celebrate the event : the corks sprang gaily in tho
air, and with a joyful " huzza," the health of the new hemisphere
was drunk.
No festivities took place among the crew. This is at present tho
caso in most vessels, as such amusements seldom end -without drunk
enness and disorder. The saUors, however, could not let tho cabin-
boy, who passed the line for the first time,' go quite scot-fi-ec ; so he
was well christened in a few buckets of salt water.
Long before passing the line, we passengers had frequently spoken
of all the sufferings and tortures we should be subjected to at
the Equator. Every one had read or heard something exceedingly
horrible, which he duly communicated to all the rost. One expected
headache or coUc ; a second had pictured to himself the saUors falUng
down fr-om exhaustion ; a third dreaded such a fearful degree of heat,
that it would not only melt the pitch,* but would so dry up the ship,
that nothing but continual throwing water over it could prevent its
catcliing fii-e ; wliile a fourth feared that all the provisions would be
spoUt, and ourselves nearly starved to death.
Foi; my own part, I had afready congratulated myself on the tra
gical stories I should be able to present to my readers ; I behold them
shedding tears at the narration of the sufferings we bad experienced,
and I already appeai-ed to myself half a martyr. Alas ! I was sadly
deceived. We all remained in perfectly good health; not a sailor
sank exhausted ; the ship did not catch fire ; and the provisions were
not spoUt — they were just as bad as before.
Srd September. From 2° to 3° South latitude the wind is very
irregular, and frequently excessively -riolent. To-day we passed the
8° South latitude, -without seeing land, which put the captain in the
best of humours. He explained to us, that if wo had seen lancl.wc
should have been obliged to retrace our course almost to the line,
hecause the current sets in -with such violence towards the land, that
the voyage could only be made at a proper distance.
7th September. Between 10° and 20° South latitude we agam
met -with very pecuUar prevalent winds. They are called vamperos:
and obUge the saUor to be always on his guard, as they spring up
very suddenly, and are often extremely violent. We were overtaken
by one dming the night, but, luckily, it was not of the worst kind.
[n a few hours it had entfrely passed over, but the sea did not become
saUn again for a considerable time.
On the 9th and llth of September, we encountered some short
gusts of the vamperos, the most violent being the last.
12th and 13th of September. The flrst was termed by the cap
tain merely "a stiffish breeze;" but the second was entered inthe
* The heat does not require to be very gi-cat in order to melt the pitch in a ship's
=seams. I have seen it become soft, and form bladders, «hcn the tliermometei stood at
.Sl-5 in the sun.

13 A WOMAN'S JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
log* as " a storm.'-' The stiffish breeze cost us one sail; the storm,.
two. During the time it lasted, the sea ran so high, that it was -with
the greatest difficulty we could eat. With one hand we were obUged
to grasp the plate, aud at the same time to hold fast on to the table,
while, with the other, we managed, with considerable difficulty, to
convey the food to om- mouth. At night, I was obliged to " stow "
myself firmly in my berth with my cloaks and dresses, to protect my
body fi-om being bruised black and blue.
On the morning of the 13th, I was on deck at break of day. The
helmsman led me to the side of the vessel, and told me to hold my
head overboard, and inhale the air. I breathed a most beautiful per
fume of flowers. I looked round in astonishment, and imagined that I
must afready be able to see the land : it was, however, stiU far distant,
the soft perfume being merely drifted to us by the wind. It was very
remarkable that inside the ship this perfume was not at aU perceptible.
The sea itself was covered with innumerable dead butterlUes and.
moths, which had been carried out to sea by the storm. Two pretty
little birds, quite exhausted by thefr long flight, were resting upon
one of the yards.
For us, who, during two months and a half, had seen nothing but
sky and water, all these things were most satisfactory ; and we looked
out anxiously for Cape Frio, which we were very neai-. The hoiizon>
however, was lowering and hazy, and the sun had not force enough
to tear the murky veil asunder. We looked forward -with joy to tho
next morning, but during the night were overtaken by another
storm, which lasted until 2 o'clock. The ship's course was changed,
and she was driven as far as possible into the open sea ; so that, in the
end, we were glad enough to reach, the next day, the same position
we had occupied the morning before.
To-day we caught no glimpse of land ; but a few guUs and alba
trosses from Cape Frio warned us that we were near it, and afforded.
us some little amusement. They swam close up to the ship's side, and
eagerly swallowed everj- morsel of bread or meat that was thrown to-
them. The saUors tried to catch some with a hook and Une, and were
fortunate enough to succeed. They were placed upon the deck, and
to my great surprise, I perceived that they were unable to raise them-'-
selves from it. If we touched them, they merely di-agged themselves,,
with great difficulty, a few paces fiirther, although they could rise
very easily from the surface of the water, and fly e.xtremelv hish
One of the gentlemen vj^as exceedingly anxious to kill and stuff-
one ol them, but ttie superstition of the sailors was opposed to this.
They said hat if birds were Med on board ship, thefr death would;
be followed by long calms. We yielded to thefr wishes and restored
the httle creatures to the au- and waves, thefr native elements. '
_ -This was another proof that superstition is stiU deep-rooted in tho
nunds of saUors. Of this we had afterwards many other instances
TTie captain, for example was always very averse to the passengera
amusmg themselves with cai-ds or any other game of chance f hi
• Every four hours the state of the -wind, ho-vp manv milo<i ti,» ......i i,..  .j .
fact, every occurrence, is noted do™ in the o° S ?7eS e?J«t,, Jf^^T^^ „i^?^-^' "»-
obliged to show this book to tlie o^ers of the shipTtrelSSn"o'f"he'v''oyagT"^

ARRIVAL IN TUE PORT OF RIO JANEIRO. ly
anotlier vessel, as I was informed, no ono was allowed to wri-te on
Sunday, &c. Empty casks or logs of wood were also very frequently
thi-own overboai-d dming a calm — probably as sacrifices to the deities
of the winds.
On the morning of tho 16th of September we at last had the good
fortune to perceive the mountains before Rio Janeiro, and soon singled
out the Sugarloaf. At 2 o'clock, P.M., we entered the bay and port
of Rio Janefro.
Immediately at tho entrance of the bay are several conical rocks,
some of which, like the Sugai-loaf, rise singly from the sea, while
others are joined at the base, and ai-o almost inaccessible.* Between
these "ocean mountains," if I may be allowed the expression, are
seen the most remarkably beautiful views; now extraordinary ravines,
then some charmingly situated quarter of the town, presently the
open sea, and the moment after some deUghtful bay. From the bay
itself, at the end of which the capital is built, nse masses of rock,
ser-ring as foundations to different fortiflcations. On some of those
eminences are chapels and fortresses. Ships are obliged to pass as
near as possible to ono of the largest of the latter, namely, Santa.
Cruz, in order that thefr papers may be examined.
From this fortress, to the right, stretches the beautiful mountain
range of the Serados-Orgoas, which, in conjunction with other
mountains and hills, fringes a lovely bay, on the shores of which lie-
the little town of Praya-grande, some few vUlages and detached farm
houses. At the extremity of the principal bay, stands Rio Janefro, sur
rounded by a tolerably high chain of mountains (among which is the
Corcovado, 2,100 feet high), behind which, more inland, is the Organ
Mountain, which owes its name to its many gigantic peaks placed
upright one against the other like the pipes of an organ. The highest
peak is 5,000 feet high-
One portion of the town is concealed by the Telegraph Mountain,
and several hills, on which, besides the Telegraph, there is a monas
tery of Capuchin monks and other smaller buUdings. Of the town
itself are seen several rows of houses and open squares, the Great
Hospital, the Monasteries of St. Luzia and Moro do Castello, the
Convent of St. Bento, the flne Church of St. Candelaria, and some
portions of the reaUy magnificent aqueduct. Close to the sea is the
Public Garden {passeo publico) of the town, which, from its flne palm
trees, and elegant stone gallery, with two summer-houses, forms a
striking object. To the left, upon eminences, stand some isolated
churches and monasteries, such as St. Gloria, St. Theresa, &c. Near
these are the Praya Flamingo and Botafogo, large viUages with beau
tiful -rillas, pretty buUdings, and gardens, which stretch far away until
lost in the neighbourhood of the Sugarloaf, aiid thus close this most
wonderful panorama. In addition to all this, the many vessels,.
partly in the harbom- before the to-wn, partly anchored in the differen t
bays, the rich and luxuriant vegetation, and the foreign and novel
• Some years ago a sailor made an attempt to scale the Sugarloaf. He succeeded in.
attaining the summit, but never came down again. Most likely he made a false s.ep ana
was precipitated into the sea.

U A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
appearance of the whole, help to form a picture, of wliose beauties my
pen, unfortunately, can never convey an adequate idea.
It rarely happens that a person is so lucky as to enjoy, imme
diately on his arrival, so beautiful and extensive a view as fell to my
lot ; fogs, clouds, or a hazy state of the atmosphere, very often con
ceal certain portions, and thus disturb the wonderful impression of the
whole. Whenever this is the case, I would advise every oue, who
intends stopping any time in Rio Janeiro, to take a boat, on a per
fectly clear day, as fai- as Santa Cruz, in order to behold thispeouliai-ly
beautiful prospect.
It was almost dark before we reached the place of anchorage.
We were first obliged to stop at Santa Cruz to ha,ve the ship's papers
examined, and then appear before an officer, who took from us our
passports and sealed letters ; then before a surgeon, who inspected
us to see that we had not brought the plague or yeUow fever ; and
lastly, before another officer, who took possession of different packets
and boxes, and assigned us the spot to anchor in.
It was now too late for us to land, and the captain alone proceeded
on shore. We, however, remained for a long time on deck, contem
plating the magnificent picture before us, untU both land and sea lay
shrouded in night.
With a Ught heart did we all retire to rest ; the goal of our long
voyage had been attained without any misfortune worthy o^ being-
mentioned. A cruel piece of intelUgence was in store for the poor
tailor's wife alone ; but the good captain did not break it to her to-day,
in order to let her enjoy an undisturbed night's rest. As soon as the
tailor heard that his wife was really on her passage out, ho ran off
with a negress, and left nought behind but — debts.
The poor woman had given up a sui-o means of subsistence in her
native land (she supported herself by cleaning lace and ladies' apparel),
and had devoted her little savings to pay the expenses of her voyage,
and all to find herself deserted and helpless in a strange hemisphere*
From Hamburgh to Rio Janeiro is about 8,750 miles.
• The worthy Lallemand family received her, a few days after her arrival into their
¦iouse.

..',?ll

CHAPTER IL
AEEIVAL AND SOJOUEN IN RIO JANEIRO.
IsTnoDrcTlON — ^AsRiVAL — Description op Tin.: To-wk— The Bijvcks, and their Rela
tions TO THS Whites— .\r.TS and Sciences — Festivals op the CHuncu — BAPiibM
OF THE Imperial Princess — Fete in the Barracks — Climate and Vegetation —
Manners anb Customs — A Few Words -to Emigrants.
I REMAINED in Rio Janeiro above two months, exclusive of the time
devoted to my difierent excursions into the interior of the country;.
it is very, far from my intention, however, to tire the reader with a
regular catalogue of every trifling and ordinary occurrence. I shall
content myself with describing the most striking features in the town,
and likewise in the manners and customs of the inhabitants, according
to the opportunities I possessed during my stay to form an opinion
of them. I shall then give an account of my various excursions in
an Appendix, and afterwards resume the thi-ead of my jo-arnal.
It was on -the morning of the 17th of September that, after the lapse
of nearly two months and a half, I first set foot upon dry land. The
captain himself accompanied the passengers on shore, after having
earnestly advised each one separately to be sure and smuggle nothing,
more especially sealed letters. " In no part of the -world," he assured us,
" were the Custom-house officers so strict, and the penalties so heavy."
On coming in sight of the guard ship, we began to feel quite
frightened from this description, and made up our minds that we
should be examined from top to toe. The captain begged permission
to accompany us on shore • this was immediately granted, and the
whole ceremony was compxerted. During the entfre period that we
lived on board the ship, and were continually going and coming to
and from the town, we never were subjected to any search ; it was
only when we took chests and boxes with us that we were obliged
to proceed to the Custom-house, where all effects are strictly exa
mined, and a liea-yy duty levied upon merchandise, books, &c., &c.
We landed at the Praya dos Mineiros, a disgusting and dirty sort
of square, inhabited by a few dozen blacks, equally disgusting and
dirty, who were squatted on the ground, and praising at the top of
their voices the fruits and sweetmeats which they were offering for
sale. Thence we proceeded directly into the principal street (Bua
Direita), whose only beauty consists in its breadth. It contains
several public buildings, such as the Post-office, the Custom-house
the Exchange, the Guai-d-house, &c. ; all of which, however, are so
insignificant in appearance, that anyone would pass them by un
noticed, if there were not always a number of people loitering hefore
them.

16 A WOM.iNS JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
At the end of this street stands the Imperial Palace, a common
place, large building, exactly resembUng a private house, without the
least pretensions to taste or architectural beauty. The square before it
{Largo do Pace), whose only ornament, a plain fountain, is extremely
dfrty, and serves at night as a sleeping place for a number of poor
free negroes, who, on getting up in the morning, perform the various
duties of their toilet in public with the most supreme indifference. A
part of the square is walled off and employed as a market for flsh,
fruit, vegetables, find poultry.
Of the remair.iEg streets the Rua Misericorda and the Rua Ouvi
dor are the most interesting. The latter contains the flnest and largest
shops ; but we must not expect the magniflcent estabUshments we
behold in the cities of Europe — in fact, we meet with little that is
beautiful or costly. Tho flower-,5hops were the only objects of parti
cular attraction for me. In these shops are exposed for sale the most
lovely artiflcial flowers, made of bfrds' feathers, fishes' scales, and
beetles' wings.
Of the squares, the finest is the Largo do Rocio; the largest, tho
Largo St. Anna. In the first, which is always kept tolerably clean,
stand the Opera-house, tho Government-house, the PoUce-office, &c.
This, too, is the starting-place for most of the omnibuses, which tra
verse the town in all directions.
The last-named square is the dirtiest in the whole town. On
crossing it for the flrst time, I perceived lying about me half putrid
cats and dogs — and even a mule in the same state. The only orna
ment of this square is a fo-untain, and I almost think I should prefer
it if the fountain were, in this case, taken away ; for, as soft water is
not very abundant in Rio Janeiro, the washerwoman's noble art
pitches its tent wherever it flnds any, and most wUlingly of all when,
at thp same time, it meets -with a good drying ground. The conse
quence is, that in the Largo St. Anna there is always such an amount
of washing and drying, of squalling and screaming, that you are glad
to get away as quickly as possible.
There is nothing remarkable in the appearance of the churches,
cither inside or out. The Church and Cloister of St. Bento and the
Church of St. Candelaria are the most deceptive; from a distance
they have a very imposing look.
The houses are built in the European fashion, but are small and
insignificant ; most of them have only a ground-floor or single story
— two stories are rarely met with. Neither are there any terraces
and verandahs adorned with elegant trellis-work and flowers, as
there aro in other warm countries. Ugly little balconies hang from
the walls, while clumsy wooden shutters close up the windows, and
prevent the smallest sunbeam' from penetrating into the rooms, where
everything is enveloped in almost perfect darkness. This, however,
is a matter of the greatest indifference to the BraziUan ladies, -^-ho
certainly never over-fatigue themselves with reading or workino-.
The town offers, therefore, very little in the way of squares,
streets, and buUdings, which, for a stranger, can prove in the least
attractive ; while the people that he meets are truly shockin"-  nearly
aU being negroes and negresses, with flat, ugly noses, thick" lips, and.

DESCRIPTION 01 EIO JANEIRO— TIIE BLACKS. IT
sliort woolly hair. They ai-e, too, generaUy half naked, with only a
few miserable rags on their backs, or else they aro thrust into tho
worn-out European-cut clothes of thefr masters. To every four or
five blacks may be reckoned a mulatto, and it is only here and there
that a white man is to bo seen.
This horrible picture is rendered stiU more revolting by the fre
quent bodUy infirmities which everywhere meet the eye : among these
elephantiasis, causing horrible club-feet, is especially conspicuous;
there is, too, no scarcity of persons afflicted with blindness and other
ills. Even the cats and dogs, that run about the gutters in great
numbers, partake of the universal ugUness : most of them are covered
with the mange, or are full of wounds and sores. I should like to
he endowed with the magic power of transporting hither every tra
veller who stai-ts back with affright from the lanes of Constantinople,
.and asserts that the sight of the interior of this city destroys the effect
produced by it when viewed at a distance.
It is true that the interior of Constantinople is exceedingly dirty,
;and that the number of small houses, the narrow streets, the uneven
ness of the pavement, the filthy dogs, &c., do not strike the beholder
as excessively picturesque ; but then he soon comes upon some mag
niflcent edifice of the time of the Moors or Romans, some -sfondrous
mosque or majestic palace, and can continue his walk through endleSs
cemeteries and forests of dreamy cypresses. He steps aside before a
pasha or priest of high rank, who rides by on his noble steed, sur
rounded by a brUUant retinue ; he encounters Tm-ks in splendid cos
tumes, and Turkish women with eyes that fiash through their veils
like fire ; he beholds Persians with their high caps, Arabs -with their
nobly-formed features, dervises in fools'-caps and plaited petticoats
like women, aud, now and thon, some carriage, beautifully painted
and gilt, drawn by superbly caparisoned oxen. AU these different
objects full J' make up for whatever amount of dirtiness may occasion
aUy be met with. In Rio Janeiro, however, there is nothing that
can in any way amuse, or atone for the horrible and disgusting sights
which everywhere meet the eye.
It was not until I had been here several weeks that I became
somewhat accustomed to the appearance of the negroes and mulattoes.
I then discovered many very pretty figures among ^the young ne
gresses, and handsome, expressive countenances among the somewhat
dark-complexioned BrazUian and Portuguese women ; the men seem,
as regards beauty, to be less favoured.
The bustle in the streets is far less than what I had been led to
expect from the many descriptions I had heard, and is certainly no^
to be compared to that at Naples or Messina. The greatest amount
•of noise is made by those negroes who carry burdens, and especially
by such as convey the sacks full of coffee on board the different ves-
«els ; they strike up a monotonous sort of song, to the tune of whieh
they keep step, but which sounds very disagreeable. . It possesses,
however, one advantage ; it -«'ai-ns the foot passenger, and affords
him time to get out of the way.
In the BrazUs, every kind of dirty or hard work, whether m
doors or out, is performed by the blacks, -^'ho here, in fact, replace

18 A WOMAN S JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
the lower classes. Many, however, learn trades, ahd frequently are-
to bo compared to the most skUful Europeans. I have seen blacks-
in the most elegant workshops, making wearing apparel, shoes,.
tapestry, gold or silver articles, and met many a nattily dressed.
negro maiden working at the flnest ladies' dresses, or the most deli
cate embroidery. I often thought I must be dreaming when I beheld
these poor creatures, whom I had pictured to myself as roaming-
free through their native forests, exercising such occupations in
shops and rooms ! Yet they do not appear to feel it as much as
might be supposed— they were always merry, and joking over their
work. Among the so-called educated class of the place, there are many
who, in spite of all the proofs of mechanical skill, as well as general
intelUgence which the blacks often display, persist in asserting that
they are so far inferior to tho whites in mental power, that they can-
only be looked upon as a link between the monkey tribe and the-
human race. I allow that they are somewhat behind the whites in
intellectual culture ; but I believe that this is not because they are-
deficient in understanding, but because their education is totaUy
neglected. No schools are erected for them, no instruction given
them — .in a word, not the least thing is done to develop the capabuities-
of their minds. As was the case in old despotic countries, thefr minds
are purposely kept enchained ; for, were they once to awake from their
present condition, the consequences to the whites might be fearful.
They are four tinies as numerous as the latter, and if they ever be
come conscious of this superiority, the whites might probably be placed
in the position that the unhappy blacks have hitherto occupied.
But I am losing myself in conjectures and reasonings which may,
perhaps, become the pen of a learned man, but certainly not mine,.
since I assuredly do not possess the necessary amount of educatieu
to decide upon such questions ; my object is merely to give a plain.
description of what I have seen.
Although the number of slaves in the BrazUs is very great, there
is nowhere such a thing as a slave-market. The importation of them
is publicly prohibited, yet thousands are smuggled in every year,,
and disposed of in some underhand manner, which every one knows,.
and every one employs. It is truo, that English ships are con
stantly cruising oft' the coasts of Brazil and Aft-ica, but even if a
slaver happen to fall into their hands, the poor blacks, I was told,.
were no moro free than if they had come to the BrazUs. They are-
all transported to the English colonies, where, at the expfration of ten
years, they are supposed to be set at liberty. But during this period '.
their owners allow the greater number to dio — of course, in the re
turns only — and the poor slaves remain slaves stUl ; but I repeat
that I only know this from hearsay.
After all, slaves" are far from being as badly off as many Euro- -
peans imagine. In the Brazils they are generally pretty well
treated; they are not overworked, their food is good and nutritious^,
and the punishments are neither particularly frequent nor heavvr
The crime of running away is the only one which is -visited with
great rigour Besides a severe beating, they havif fetters placed^

DESCRIPTION OF EIO JANEIEO. 19
round thefr neck and feet ; these they have to wear for a consider
able period. Another manner of punishment consists in making
them wear a tin mask, which is fastened with a lock behind. This
is the mode of punishment adopted for those who drink, or aro in the
habit of eating earth or lime. During my long stay in the Brazils,
I only saw one negro who had got on a mask of this description.
I very much doubt whether, on the whole, the lot of these slaves is
not less wretched tlian that of the peasants of Russia, Poland, or
Egypt, who are not called slaves.
I was one day very much amused at being asked to stand god
mother to a negro, which I did, although I was not present at either
baptism or confirmation. There is a certain custom here, that when
a slave has done anything for which he expects to be punished, he
endeavours to fly to some friend of his owner, and obtain a note-,
asking for the remission of his punishment. The writer of such a
letter has the title of godfather bestowed on him, and it would bo
accounted an act of the greatest impoliteness not to grant the god
father's request. In this way, I myself was fortunate enough to save
a slave from punishment.
The town is tolerably well Ughted, and the lighting is continued'
to a considerable distance, on all sides, beyond the town itself; this
measure was introduced on account of the great number of blacks.
No slave dare be seen in the streets later than 9 o'clock in the
evening, without ha-ring a pass from his master, certifying that he is
going on business for him. If a slave is ever caught without a pass,
he is immediately conveyed to the House of Correction, where his
head is shaved, and he himself obliged to remain until his master
buys his freedom for fom- or flve milreis. (8s. &d., or 10s. lOd.) In
consequence of this regulation, the streets may be traversed with
safety at any hour of the night.
One of the most disagreeable things in Rio Janeiro is the total
absence of sewers. In a heavy shower, every street becomes a regu
lar stream, which it is impossible to pass on foot ; in order to traverse
them, it is requisite to be carried over by negroes. At such times,
all intercourse generally ceases, the streets are deserted, parties are
put off, and even the payment of bUls of exchange deferred. It is
very seldom that people will hire a carriage, for it is an absurd cus
tom here, to pay as much for a short drive, as if the carriage were
required for the whole day ; in both cases the charge is six milreis
(13s.) The carriages are" half-covered ones, with seats for two, and
are drawn by a pafr\ of mules, on one (pf which the di-iver rides.
Carriages and horses Uke the EngUsh ire very seldom to be met
with. As regards the arts and sciences, I may mention the Academy ol
Fine Arts, the Museum, Theatre, &c. In the Academy of Fine Arts
is something of everything, and not much of anything— a fe-w figures
and busts, most in plaster, a few architectural plans and pencil draw
ings, and a collection of very old oil paintings.' It really seemed to
me as if some private picture gallery had been carefully weeded ot
aU the rubbish in it, which had then been put here out of the way.

20 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
Most of the oil paintings are so injured, that it is scarcely possible
to make out what they are intended to represent, which, after all, is
no great loss. The only thing respectable about them is thefr vener
able antiquity. A startling contrast is produced by the copies of
them made by the students. If the colours in the old pictures are
faded, in the modern ones they blaze -with a superfluity of vividness ;
red, yellow, green, &c., are there in all thefr force ; such a thing as
mixing, softening, or blending them, has evidently never been thought
of. Even at the present moment, I reaUy am at a loss to determine
whether the worthy students intended to found a new school for
colouring, or whether they merely desfred to make up in the copies
for the damage time had done the originals.
There were as many blacks and mulattoes among the students as
whites, but the number of them altogether was inconsiderable.
Music, especiaUy singing and the pianoforte, is almost in a more
degraded position than painting. In every famUy the young ladies
play and sing ; but of tact, style, arrangement, time, &c., the
innocent creatures have not the remotest idea, so that the easiest and
most taking melodies are often not recognisable. The sacred music
is a shade better, although even the arrangements of the Imperial
Chapel itself are susceptible of many improvements. The miUtary
bands are certainly the best, and these are generaUy composed of
negroes and mulattoes.
The exterior of the Opera-house does not promise anything very
beautiful or astonishing, and the stranger is, consequently, much sur
prised to find, on entering, a large and magniflcent house with a deep -
stage. I should say it could contain more than 2,000 persons. There
are four tiers of spacious boxes rising one above the other, the balus
trades of which, formed of delicately- wrought iron trelUs-work, give
the theatre a very tasty appearance. The pit is only for men. I was
present at a tolerably good representation, by an ItaUan company, of
the opera of Lucrezia Borgia ; the scenery and costumes are not
amiss. If, however, I was agreeably surprised by my visit to the theatre,
I experienced quite a contrary feeUng on going to the Museum. Jn
a land so richly and luxuriously endowed by Nature, I expected an
equaUy rich a,nd magniflcent museum, and found a number of very
fine rooms, it is true, which one day or tither may be fiUed, but which
at present are empty. The collection of bfrds, which is the most
complete of aU, is really fine; that of the minerals is very defective ;
and those of the quadrupeds and insects poor in the extreme. The
objects which most excited my curiosity, were the heads of four
savages, in excellent preservation; two of them belonged to the
Malay, and two to the New Zealand tribes. The latter especially I
eould not sufficiently contemplate, completely covered as they were
with tattooing of the most beautiful and elegant design, and so well
preserved that they seemed only to have just ceased to live.
Dm-ing the period of my stay in Rio Janeiro, the rooms of the
Museum were undergoing repafrs, and a new classification of the
different objects was also talked of. In consequence of this, the buUd
ing was not open to the public, and I have to thank the kindness of

FESTIVALS OF THB CHUECH. 21
Herr Riedl, the director, for allowing me to view it. He acted him
self as my guide ; and, like me, regretted that in a country where the
formation of a rich museum -would be so eai.y a task, so Uttle had been
done. I lUcewise ¦\isited the studio of the sculptor Petrich, a native of
Dresden, who came over at tho unsolicited command of the court, to
execute a statue of the emperor in Carrara marble. The emperor is
represented the size of Ufe, in a standing position, and arrayed in his
imperial robes, with the ermine cloalc thrown over his shoulder. The
head is strikingly like, and the whole figure worked out of the stone
with great artistic skUl. I beUeve this statue was destined for some
pubUo buUding.
I was fortunate enough during my stay in Rio Janeiro to witness
several different pubUc festivals.
The flrst was on the 21st of September, in the Church of St. Cruz,
on the occasion of celebrating the anniversary of the patron saint of
the country. Early in the morning several hundred soldiers were
drawn up before the chm-ch, with an excellent band, which played a
number of lively afrs. Between ten and eleven, the mUitary and
civU officers began gradually to arrive, the subordinate ones, as I was
told, coming first. On their entrance into the church, a brownish-
red silk cloak, which concealed the whole of the uniform, was pre
sented to each. Every time that another of a higher rank appeared,
all those already in the church rose from thefr seats, and advancing
towards the new comer as far as the church door, accompanied him
respectfuUy to his place. The emperor and his wife arrived the last
of aU. The emperor is extremely young — not quite one and twenty
— but six feet taU, and very corpulent ; his features are those of the
Hapsburg-Lotheiing famUy. The empress, a NeapoUtan princess, is
smaU and slim, and forms a strange contrast when standing beside
the athletic figure of her husband.
High mass, which was Ustened to -with great reverence by every
one, began immediately after the entrance of the court, and after
this was concluded the imperial pafr proceeded to thefr carriage, pre
senting the crowd, who were waiting in the church, their hands to
loss as they went along. This mark of distinction was bestowed not
only on the officers and officials of superior rank, but on every one
v/ho pressed forward to obtain it.
A second, and more briUiant festival occurred on the 19th of October;
it was the emperor's bfrth- day, and was celebrated by high mass in
the Imperial Chapel. This chapel is situated near the Imperial
Palace, to which it is connected by means of a covered gaUery. Be
sides the imperial famUy, aU the general officers, as well as the first
officials of the state, were present at the mass, but in full uniform,
•without the ugly sUk cloaks. Surrounding all was a row of Lancers
(the body-guard). It is impossible for any but an eye-witness to
form an idea of the richness and profusion of the gold embroidery,
the splendid epaulets, and beautifuUy set orders, &c., displayed on
the occasion, and I hardly believe that anything approaching it could
be seen at any European court. C 2

23 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
During high mass, the foreign ambassadors, and the ladies and
gentlemen admxitted to court, assembled in the palace, where, on the
emperor's return, every one was admitted to kiss his hand.
The ambassadors, however, took no part in this proceeding, but
merely made a simple bow.
This edifying ceremony could easily be seen from the square, as
the windows are very near the ground, and were also open. On such
occasions continual salutes are fired from the imperial ships, and
sometimes from others in the harbour.
On the 2nd of November I saw a festival of another description—
namely, a reUgious one. During this and the following days, old
and young proceed from one church to another, to pray for the souls
of the departed.
They have a singular custom here of not burying all their dead m
the church-yard, many bodies being placed, at an additional expense,
in the church itself. For this purpose, there are, in every church,
particular chambers, with catacombs formed in the walls. The corpse
is sfrewed with Ume, and laid in a catacomb of this description, where,
after a lapse of eight or ten months, the flesh is completely eaten
away. The bones are then taken out, cleaned by boiUng, and col
lected in an urn, on which is engraved the name, birth-day, &c., of
the deceased. These lu-ns are afterwards set up in the passages of the
church, or sometimes even taken home by the relations.
On All-soiUs' day, the waUs of the chambers are hung with black
cloth, gold lace, and other ornaments, and the urns are richly deco
rated with flowers and ribbons, and are Ughted up by a great number
of tapers in silver candelabra and chandeliers, placed upon high
stands. From an early hour in the morning until noon, the women
and young girls begin praying very fervently for the soiUs of their
deceased relations, and the young gentlemen, who are quite as
curious as those in Europe, go to see the yovmg girls pray.
Females on this day are dressed in mourning, and often wear, to
the great disgust of the curious young gentlemen before mentioned,
a black veil over thefr head and face. No one, by the way, is allowed
to wear a bonnet at any festival of the church.
But the most brilliant of the pubUc festivals I saw here, was the
christening of the imperial princess, which took place on the 15th
of November, in the Imperial Chapel, which is connected with the
palace. Towards 3 o'clock in the afternoon a number of troops were
drawn up in the court-yard of the palace, the guards were distributed
in the corridors and the church, whUe the bands played a series of
pleasing melodies, frequently repeating the National Anthem, which
the late emperor, Peter I., is said to have composed. Equipage after
equipage began to roll up to the palace, and set down the most bril
liantly attired company of both sexes.
At 4 o'clock the procession began to leave the palace. First,
came the court band, clothed in red velvet, and followed by three
heralds, in old Spanish costume, magnifleently decorated hats and
feathers, and black velvet suits. Next walked the officers of the law,
and the authorities of every rank, chamberlains, court physicians,

BAPTISM OF THE IMPERIAL PRINCESS. S3
senators, deputies, generals, and ecclesiastics, privy councillors and
secretaries ; and, lastly, after this long Une of diflferent personages,
came the lord steward of the young princess, whom he bore upon a
magnificent white velvet cushion, edged with gold lace. Immediately
belUnd him foUowed the emperor, and the little princess's nurse, sur
rounded by the principal nobles and ladies of the court. On passing
thi-ough the triumphal arch of the gaUei-y, and coming before the
paUium of the church, the emperor took his little daughter* into his
own arms, and presented her to the people; an act which pleased me
exceedingly, and which I considered extremely appropriate.
The empress, with her ladies, had like-wise aU-eady arrived in
the church through the inner corridors, and the ceremony commenced
forth-with. The instant the princess was baptized, the event was
announced to the whole town by salvos of artillery, volleys of m.us-
ketry, and the discharge of rockets, f At the conclusion of the cere
mony, which lasted above an hom-, the procession returned in the
same order in which it had arrived, and the chapel was then opened
to the people. I was curious enough to enter with the rest, and, I
must O'wn, I was quite surprised at the magnificence and taste -with
which the buUding was decorated. The walls were covered with
silk and velvet hangings, ornamented with gold fringe, while rich
carpets were spread underfoot. On large tables, in the middle of the
nave, were displayed the most valuable specunens of the church plate,
gold and sUver vases, immense dishes, plates, and goblets, artistically
engraved, and ornamented with embossed or open work ; whUe mag
nificent vessels of crystal, containing the most beautiful flowers, and
massive candelabra, -with innumerable Ughts, sparkled in the midst.
On a separate table, near the high altar, were all the costly vessels
and furniture which had been employed at the christening ; and, in
one of the side chapels, the princess's cradle, covered with white satin,
and ornamented with gold lace. In the evening, the to-wn, or rather,
the pubUc buildings, were Uluminated. The proprietors of private
houses are not requfred to light up ; and they either avaU themselves
of their privUege, or at most, hang out a few lanterns — a fact which
-wiU be readily imderstood, when it is known that such iUuminations
last for six or eight days. The public buildings, on the contrary, are
covered from top to bottom -with countless lamps, which look exactly
like a sea of flre.
The most original and really amusing fetes to celebrate the chris
tening of the princess, were those given on several eveningsi n some
of the barracks : even the emperor himseU' made his appearance there
for a few moments on different occasions. They were also the only f^tes
I saw here which were not mixed up with reUgious solemnities. The
sole actors in them were the soldiers themselves, of whom the hand
somest and most active had pre-riously been selected, and exercised in
the various evolutions and dances. 'The most briUiant of these fetes
took place in the barracks of the Rua Barbone. A semiefrcular and
* The princess -was three -weeks old.
-f Rockets and small fireworks are always let off at every religious festival, some hefore
the eiurch, and others at a short distance from it. The most ludicrous part of the affair
is, that this is always done in open day.

24 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
very tasty gallery was erected in the spacious court-yard, and in the
middle of the gallery were busts of the imperial couple. This gaUery
was set apart for the ladies in-rited, who made thefr appearance as if
dressed for the most splendid baU : at the entrance of the court-yard
they were received by the officers, and conducted to thefr places.
Before the gaUery stood the stage, and at each side of the latter were
ranged rows of seats for the less fashionable females ; beyond these
seats was standing-room for the men.
At eight o'clock the band commenced playing, and shortly after
wards the representation began. The soldiers appeared, dressed in
various costumes, as Highlanders, Poles, Spaniards, &c. ; nor was
there any scarcity of danseuses, who, of course, were like-wise private
soldiers. What pleased me most was, that both the dress and beha-
•riour of the miUtary young ladies were highly becoming. I had ex
pected at least some little exaggeration, or at best no very elegant
spectacle ; and was therefore greatly astonished, not only with the
correctness of the dances and evolutions, but also with the perfect
propriety with which the whole affafr was conducted.
The last fSte that I saw took place on the 2nd of December, in cele
bration of the emperor's birth-day. After high mass, the different
dignitaries again waited on the emperor, to offer thefr congratulations,
and were admitted to the honour of kissing his hand, &c. The impe
rial couple then placed themselves at a window of the palace, whUe
the froops defiled before them, with thefr bands playing the most
Uvely afrs. It would be difficult to find better dressed soldiers than
those here : every private might easily be mistaken for a lieutenant,
or at least a non-commissioned officer ; but unluckily, their bearing,
size, and colour, are greatly out of keeping with the splendour of
their uniform— a mere boy of fourteen standing next to a full-grown,
weU-made nian, a white coming after a black, and so on.
The men are pressed into the service ; the time of serving is fi-om
four to six years.
I had heard and read a great deal in Europe ofthe natural maonifl-
cence and luxury ofthe BrazUs— of the ever clear and smUing sky^ and
the extraordinary charm of the continual spring ; but though it is truo
that the vegetation is perhaps richer, and the fruitfulness of the soil
more luxuriant and vigorous than in any other part of the world, and
that every_ one who desires to see the working of nature in its greatest
force and incessant activity, must come to BrazU ; still it must not
be thought that all is good and beautiful, and that there is nothino-
which wiU not weaken the magical eff'ect of the flrst impression "
Although every one begms by praising the continual verdure and
the uninterrupted splendour of spring met with in this countrv he
is, in the end, but too wUlmg to aUow, that even this, in time loses
its charm. A Uttle winter would be preferable, as the reawakening
of nature, the resuscitation of the slumbering plants, the return of the
sweet perfume of spring, enchants us aU the more, simply because
during a short period we have been deprived of it.
I found the cUmate and the afr exceedingly oppressive ; and the
heat, although at that period hardly above 86° in the shade, very

climate and VEGETATION. 25
weakening. During the warm months, which last from the end of
December to May, the heat rises in tlie shade to 99°, and in the sun
to above 122°. In Egypt, I bore a greater amount of heat with far
greater ease ; a cfrcumstance which may perhaps be accounted for by
the fact, that the cUmate is there drier, while here there ia always
an immense degree of moistm-e. Fogs and mists are very common ;
the hills and eminences, nay, even whole tracta of country, are often
enveloped iu impenetrable gloom, and the whole atmosphere loaded
with damp vapours.
In the month of November I was seriously indisposed for a con
siderable period. _ I suffered, especially in the town, from an oppres-
si-ve feeUng of fatigue and weakness ; and to the kindness and friend
ship of Herr Geiger, the Secretary to the Ausfrian Consulate, and his
wife, who took me with them into the country, and showed me the
greatest attention, do I alone owe my recovery. I ascribed my illness
altogether to the unusual dampness of the atmosphere.
The most agreeable season is said to be the winter (from June to
October) ; that, with a temperatm-e of from 63° to 72°, is mostly dry
and clear. This period is generally selected by the inhabitants for
traveUing. During the summer, violent thunder-storms are of fre
quent occurrence : I myseU' only saw three during my stay in the
BrazUs, aU of which were over in an hour and a half. The lightning
was ahnost incessant, and spread Uke a sheet of fire over the greater
portion of the horizon ; the thrmder, on the other hand, was incon- •
siderable. Clear, cloudless days (from 16th September to 9th December)
were so rare, that I really could have counted them ; and I am at a
loss to understand how so many travellers have spoken of the ever
beautiful, smiUng, and blue sky of the Brazils. This must be true of
some other portion of the year.
A fine evening and long twUight is another soxu-ce of enjoyment
which may be said to be unknown : at sunset every one hastens home,
as it is immediately followed by darkness and damp.
In the height of summer the sun sets at about a quarter past 6,
and aU the rest of the year at 6 o'clock; twenty or thfr-ty mmutes
afterwards, night sets in.
The musquitoes, ants, baraten, and sand-fleas are another source
of annoyance ; many a night have I been obliged to sit up, tormented
and tortured by the bite of these insects. It is hardly possible to
protect provisions from the attacks of the baraten and ants. The
latter, in fact, often appear in long trains of immeasureable length,
pursuing thefr course over every obstacle which stands in the way.
During my stay in the country at Herr Geiger's, I beheld a swarm of
this description traver.se a portion of the house. It was reaUy most
interesting to see what aregular line they formed; nothing could
make them deviate from the dfrection they had first determined on.
Madame Geiger told me that she was one night awoke by a horrible
itching ; she sprang immediately out of bed, and beheld a swarm ot
ants of the above description pass over her bed. There is no remedy
for this ; the end of the procession, which often lasts four or six hours,
must be waited for with patience. Provisions are to some extent

26 A WOxMAN'-S JOUENEY EOUND TIIE WOELD.
protected from them, by placing the legs of the tables and presses in
plates filled with water. Clothes and linen are laid in tightly-fitting
tin canisters, to protect them, not only from the ants, but also from
the baraten and the damp.
The worst plague of all, however, are the sand-fleas, which attach
themselves to one's toes, underneath the naUs, or sometimes to the
soles of the feet. The moment a person feels an itching in these parts
he must immediately look at the place ; U' he sees a small black point
surrounded by a small white ring, the former is the flea, and the
latter the eggs which it has laid m the flesh. The first thing done is
to loosen the skin aU round as far as the white ring is visible ; the whole
deposit is then extracted, and a little snuff strewed in the empty
space. The best plan is to call in the first black you may happen to
see, as they all perform this operation very skilfully.
As regards the natural products of the Brazils, a great many of
the most necessary articles are wanting in the Ust. It is true that
there are sugar and coffee, but no corn, no potatoes, and none of our
delicious varieties of fruit. The flour of manioc, which is mixed up
with the other materials of which the dishes are composed, suppUes
the place of bread, but is fai- from being so nutritious and strengthen
ing, while the different kinds of sweet-tasting roots are certainly not
to be compared to our potatoes. The only fruit, which are really
excellent, are the oranges, bananas and mangoes. Their celebrated
pine-apples are neither very fragrant nor remarkably sweet ; I
certainly have eaten much finer flavoured ones that had been grown
in a European hot-house. The other kinds of fruit are not worth
mentioning. Lastly, with the two very necessary articles of con
sumption, nulk and meat, the former is very watery, and the latter
very dry.
On instituting a comparison between the Brazils and Europe,
both with respect to the impression produced by the whole, as also to
the separate advantages and disadvantages of each, we shall, perhaps,
at first find the scale incUne towards the former country, but only to
turn ultimately with greater certainty in favour of the latter.
The Brazils is, perhaps, the most interesting country in the world
for travellers ; but for a place of permanent residence I should most
decidedly prefer Europe.
I saw too Uttle of the manners and customs of the country to
be qualified to pronounce judgment upon them, and I shall therefore,
on this head, confine myself to a few remarks. The manners seem
on the whole, to dift'er but little from those of Europe. The present
possessors of the country, as is well known, derive their descent
from Portugal, and the BraziUans might very aptly be termed
" Europeans translated into Americans ; " and it is very natural, that
in this " translation " many pecuUarities have been lost, whUe others
have stood forth in greater relief. The strongest feature in the
character of the European- American is the greed for gold ; this often
becomes a passion, and transforms the most faint-hearted white into
a hero, for it certainly requires the courage of one to live alone as
planter, on a plantation with perhaps some hundred slaves, 'far

MAN.NEES AND CUSTOMS. 27
removed from all assistance, and with tho prospect of being irrevocably
lost in the event of any revolt.
This grasping feeUng is not confined to the men alone ; it is found
among the women as weU, and is greatly encouraged by a common
custom here, agreeably to which, ahusband never assigns his wife so
much for pin-money, but, according to his means, makes her a present
of one or more male or female slaves, whom she can dispose of as she
chooses. She generally has them taught how to cook, sew, embroider,
or even insti-ucted in some trade, and then lets them out, by the day,
week, or month,* to people who possess no slaves of thefr own ; or
she lets tliem take in washing at homo, or employs them in the manu-
factui-e of various ornamental objects, fine pasti-y, &c, which she
sends them out to seU. The money for these things belongs to her,
and is generaUy spent in dress and amusement.
In the case of tradesmen, and professional men, the wife is always
paid for whatever assistance she may lend her husband in his
business. Morality, unfortunately, is not very general in the Brazils ; one
cause of this may be traced to the manner in which the chUdren are
first brought up. They are confided entfrely to the care of blacks.
Negresses suckle them when they are infants, their nurses are negress
es, their attendants are negresses — and I have often seen girls of eight
or ten years of age taken to school, or any other place, by young
negroes. The sensuaUty of the blacks is too weU known for us to
be surprised, with such a state of things, at the general and early de
moralization. In no other place did I ever behold so many children
with such pale and worn faces as in the streets of Rio Janefro. The
second cause of immorality here is, -without doubt, the want of reli
gion. The BrazUs are thoroughly Catholic — perhaps there are no
counfries save Spain and Italy, that can be compai-ed to them. Al
most every day there is some procession, service, or church-festival ;
but these are attended merely for the sake of amusement, whUe the
true reUgious feeUng is entirely wanting.
We may also ascribe to this deep demoralization and want of
reUgion the frequent occurrence of mm-ders, committed not for the
sake of robbSry or theft, but from motives of revenge and hatred.
The murderer either commits. the deed himself, or has it perpetrated
by one of his slaves, who is ready to lend himself for the purpose, in
consideration of a nlere trifie. The discovery of the crime need
cause the assassin no anxiety, provided he is rich ; for in this country
everything, I was assured, can be arranged or achieved with money.
I saw several men in Rio Janefro who had, according to report, com
mitted either themselves, or by the means of others, not one, but
several murders, and yet they not only enjoyed perfect Uberty, but
were received in every society.
In conclusion, I beg leave to address a few words to those of
my countrymen who think of leaving their native land, to seek
thefr fortune on the distant coast of BrazU — a few words which
* They are differently paid, according to what they ean do. The usual hire of a
maid-servant is from ten to twelve shillings per month ; for a cook, twenty-four to forty ;
for a nurse, thirty-eight to forty ; tor a skilful labourer, fifty to seventy.

88 A WOMAN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
I could desire to see as far spread and as well known as pos
sible. There are people in Europe not a whit better than the Afiican
slave-dealers, and such people are those who delude poor wretches
with exaggerated accounts of the richness of America and her
beautiful territories, of the over-abundance of the products of the soil,
and the lack of hands to take advantage of them. These people, how
ever, care little about the poor dupes ; their object is to freight the
vessels belonging to theni, and to effect this they take from thefr
deluded victim the last penny he possesses.
During my stay here, several vessels arrived with unfortunate
emigrants of this description ; the government had not sent for them,
and therefore would afford them no relief; money they had none,
and, consequently, could not purchase land, neither could they find
employment in working on the plantations, as no one wUl engage
Europeans for this purpose, because, being unused to the warm cUmate,
they would soon succumb beneath the work. The unhappy wretches
had thus no resom-ce left ; they were obUged to beg about the town,
and, in the end, were fain to content themselves with the most mis
erable occupations. A different fato awaits those who are sent for by
the Brazilian government to cultivate the land or colonize the coun
try : these persons receive a piece of uncleared ground, -with pro-ri
sions and other help ; but if they come over without any money at all,
even their lot is no enviable one. Want, hunger, and sickness de
stroy most of them, and but a very small number succeed, by unceas
ing activity and an iron constitution, in gaining a better means of
livelihood than what they left behind them in their native land.
Those only who exercise some trade find speedy employment and an
easy competency; but even this will, in all probability, soon be
otherwise, for great numbers are pouring in every year, and latterly
the negroes themselves have been, and are still being, more frequently
taught every land of trade.
Let every one, therefore, obtain trustworthy information before
leaving his native land ; let him weigh calmly and deliberately the
step he is about to take, and not allow himself to be carried away by
deceptive hopes. The poor creature's misei-y on being undeceived is
so much the more dreadful, because ho does not learn the truth until
it is too late — until he has already fallen a victim to poverty and
want.

CHAPTER III.
excursions IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF EIO JANEIRO.
The WATERFALr.s near Tesckuka — Boa Vista— The Botanical Gardens and their
Environs — ^The Corcovado Mountains, 2,253 Feet above the Level op the Se-v —
Palaces of the Isiperiai. Family— The Newly-founded German Colony of Pe-
tropolis — ^Attempt at Murder, by a Marroon Negro.
An excui-sion to the waterfalls near Teschuka, to Boa Vista, and the
Botanical Gardens, is one of the most interesting near the city ; but
it requfres two days, as it takes a long time to see the Botanical Gar
dens alone.
Count Berchthold and myself proceeded as far as Andaracky
(four mUes) in an omnibus, and then continued our journey on foot,
between patches of wood and low hills. Elegant countiy houses are
situated upon the eminences and along the high road, at short dis
tances fi-om each other.
When we had walked four miles, a path to the right conducted us to
a small waterfall, neither very high nor well suppUed, but stUl the most
considerable one in the vicinity of Rio Janefro. We then returned to
the high road, and in half an hour reached a Httle elevated plain, whence
the eye ranged over a valley of the most remarkable description, one
portion of it being in a state of wild chaotic confusion, and the other
resembUng a blooming garden. In the former were strewed masses
of broken granite, from which, in some places, larger blocks reared
thefr heads, ]ike so many Collossi ; while in others large fragments of
rocks lay towering one above the other; in the second portion stood
the finest fruit trees in the midst of luxuriant pastures. This romantic
vaUey is enclosed on three sides by noble mountains, the fourth being
open, and d)«(glosing a full view of the sea.
In this valley we found a small venda, where we recruited our
selves -with bread and -wine, and then continued our excursion to the
so-caUed " Great Waterfall," with which we were less astonished than
we had been with the smaUer one. A very shallow sheet of water
flowed down over a broad but no-wise precipitous ledge of rock into
the vaUey beneath.
After making our way through the valley, we came to the Porto
Massalu, where a number of trunks of trees, hollowed out and lying
before the few huts situated in the bay, apprized us that the inha
bitants were fishermen. We hired ono of these beautiful convey
ances to carry us across the iitwe bay. The passage did not take
more than a quarter of an hour at the most, and for this, as strangers,
we were compeUed to pay two thousand reis [is.).
We had now at one moment to wade through plains of sand, and
the next to clamber over the rocks by wretched paths. In this labor-
.ous fashion we proceeded for at least twelve mUes, until we reached

30 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
the summit of a mountain, which rises Uke the party-wall of two
mighty valleys. This peak is justly called the Boa Vista. The view
extends over both vaUeys, with the mountain ranges and rows of
hiUs which intersect them, and embraces, among other high moun
tains, the Corcovado and the " Two Brothers ;" and, in the distance,
the capital, with the surrounding country-houses and vUlages, the
various bays and the open sea.
UnwilHngly did we leave this beautiful position ; but being un
acquainted with the distance we should have to go before reaching
some hospitable roof, we were obUged to hasten on ; besides which
negroes are the only persons met -with on these lonely roads, and a
rencontre -with any of them by night is a thing not at all to be desfred.
We descended, therefore, into the valley, and resolved to sleep at the
first inn we came to.
More fortunate than most people in such cases, we not only found
an exceUent hotel with clean rooms and good furniture, but feU in
-Nrith company which amused us in the highest degree. It consisted
of a mulatto family, and attracted all my attention. The wife, a
tolerably stout beauty of about thfrty, was dressed out in a fashion
which, in my own country, no one, save a lady of an exceedingly
vulgar taste would ever think of adopting — all the valuables she
possessed in the world, she had got about her. Wherever it was pos
sible to stick anything of gold or silver, there it was sm-e to be. A
gown of heavy sUIj: and a real cashmere enveloped her dark brown
body, and a charming little white silk bonnet looked very comical
placed upon her great hea-yy head. The husband and five children
were worthy of tlieir respective wife and mother ; and, in fact, this
excess of dress extended even to the nurse, a real unadulterated
negress, who was also overloaded with ornaments. On one arm she
had five and on the other six bracelets of stones, pearls, and coral,
but which, as far as I could judge, did not strike me as being particu
larly genuine.
When the family rose to depart, two landaus, each with four
horses, drove up to the door, and man and wife, children and nurse,
all stepped in with the same majestic gra-rity.
As I was still looking after the carriages, which 'were roUing
rapidly towards the town, I saw some one on horseback nodding to
me : it was my fi-iend, Herr Geiger. On hearing that we intended
to remain for the night where we were, he persuaded us to accompany
him to the estate of his father-in-law, which was situated close at
hand. In the latter gentleman, we made the acquaintance of a most
worthy and cheerful old man of seventy years of age, who, at that
period, was Directing Architect and Superintendant of the Fine Arts
under Government. We admfred his beautiful garden and charming
residence, built, with great good taste, in the ItaUan style.
Early on the following morning, I accompanied Count Berchthold
to the botanical gardens. Our curiosity to visit these gardens was
very great : we hoped to see there magnificent specimens of trees and
flowers from all parts of the world — but we were rather disappointed.
The gardens have been founded too recently, and none of the large
trees have yet attained their full growth ; there is no very great selec-

EXCURSION TO THE CORCOVADO MOUNTAINS. SI
tion of flowers or plants ; and to the few that are there, not even
tickets are affixed, to acquaint the visitor with thefr names. The
most interesting objects lor us, were the monkey's bread-tree, with its
gourds weighUig ten or twenty-five pounds, and containing a number
of kernels, which are eaten, not only by monkeys, but also by men —
the clove, camphor, and cocoa-tree, the cinnamon and tea bush, &c.
We also saw a very pecuUar kind of palm-free : the lower portion of
the frunk, to the height of two or three feet, was brown and smooth,
and shaped like a large tub or vat ; the stems that sprang from this
were Hght green, and like the lower part, very smooth, and at the same
time shining, as if varnished ; they were not very high, and the crest
of leaves, as is the case with other palms, only unfolded itself at the
top of the tree. Unfortunately, we were unable to learn the names
of this kind of palm ; and in the whole course of my voyage, I never
met with another specimen.
We did not leave the gardens before noon : we then proceeded on
foot four mUes as far as Batafogo, and thence reached the city by
omnibus. Herr Geiger had invited Count Berchtholdt, Herr Rister, (a native
of Vienna), and myself to an excursion to the Corcovado mountains ;
and accordingly, on the 1st November, at a time when we are often
-visited by storms and snow, but when the sun is here in his full force,
and the sky -without a cloud, at an early hour in the morning did we
commence our pUgrimage.
The splendid aqueduct was our guide as far as the springs from
which it derives the water, which point we reached in an hour and a
half, having been so effectually protected by the deep shade of lovelj'-
woods, that even the intense heat of the sun, which reached dm-ing
the day more than 117°, (in the sun), scarcely annoyed us.
We stopped at the springs ; and, on a sign from Herr Geiger, an
athletic negro made his appearance, loaded with a large hamper of
pro-risions — everything was soon prepared — a white cloth was spread
out, and the eatables and drinkables placed upon it. Our meal was
seasoned -with jokes and good humour; and when we started afresh
on om- journey, we felt revived both in body and mind.
The last cone of the mountain gave us some trouble : the route
was very precipitous, and lay over bare, hot masses of rock. But
when we did reach the top, we were more than repaid by seeing
spread before us such a panorama, as most assuredly is very seldom to
'oe met with in the world. All that I had remarked on my entrance
into the port, lay there before me, only more clearly defined and more
extended, with innumerable additional objects. We could see the
whole town, all the lower hUls, which half hid it from my view on
my arrival, the large bay, reaching as far as the Organ mountain;
and, on the other side, the romantic vaUey, containmg the botanical
gardens, and a number of beautiful counfry-houses.
I recommend every one who comes to Rio Janiero, although it be
only for a few days, to make this excursion, since from this spot he
can, vrith one glance, perceive aU the treasures which nature, with so
truly Uberal a hand, has lavished upon the environs of this city. He
wiU here see virgin forests, which, if not quite as thick and beautUul

32 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
as those farther inland, are still remarkable for thefr luxuriant vege
tation. Mimosae and Aarren baume of a gigantic size, palms, -wild
coffee-frees, orohidsen, parasites and creepers, blossoms and flowers,
without end ; bfrds of the most brilliant plumage, immense butter
flies, and sparkling insects, fiying in swarms from blossom to blossom,
from branch to branch. A most wonderful effect also is produced by
the mUlions of fire-flies, which find their way into the very tops of
the trees, and sparkle between the foHage like so many brightly
twinkUng stars.
I had been informed that the ascent of this mountain was attended
with great difficulty. I did not, however, find this to be the case,
since the summit may be reached with the greatest ease in three
hours and three quarters, whUe three parts of the way can also be
performed on horseback.
The regular residence of the imperial family may be said to be
the Palace of Christovao, about half an hour's walk from the to-wn.
It is there that the emperor spends most of the year, and where also
aU poUtical councUs are held, and state business transacted.
The palace is small, and is distinguished neither for taste nor
architectural beauty : its sole charm is its situation. It is placed
upon a hUl, and commands a view of the Organ mountain, and one of
the bays. The palace garden itself is small, and is laid out in ter-
i-aces right down into the valley below : a larger garden, that serves
as a nursery for plants and frees, joins it. Both these gardens are
highly interesting for Europeans, since they contain a great number
of plants, whieh either do not exist at all in Europe, or are only
known from dwarf specimens in hot-houses. Herr Reidl, who has the
management of both gardens, was kind enough to conduct us over
them himself, and to draw my attention more especially to the tea
and bamboo plantations.
Ponte de Cascher (four mUes from the town) is another imperial gar
den. There are three mango trees here, which are very remarkable,
from thefr age and size. Thefr branches describe a circle of more
than eighty feet in cfrcumference, but they no longer bear fruit.
Among the most agreeable walks in the immediate -ricinity of
the town, I may mention the Telegraph mountain, the pubUc garden
(Jardin pubUco), the Praya do Flamingo, and the Cloisters of St.
Gloria and St. Theresia, &c.
I had heard so much in Rio Janiero of the rapid rise of PetropoUs
a colony founded by Germans in the neighbourhood of Rio Janiero of
the beauty of the country where it was situated, and of the virgin
forests through which a part of the road ran — that I could not resist
the temptation of making an excursion thither. My travelling com
panion. Count Berchthold, accompanied me ; and, on the 26th Sep
tember, we took two places on board one of the numerous barks
which sail regularly every day for the Porto d'EsfreUa, (a distance of
twenty or twenty-two nautical miles), from which place the ioume-y
is continued by land. We saUed through a bay remarkable for ite
exfremely picturesque -news, and which often reminded me vividly
of the peculiar character of the lakes in Sweden. It is surrounded
by ranges of lovely hiUs, and is dotted over with small islands, both

POETO d'eSTEELLA. 33
separate and in groups, some. of which are so completely overgrown
with palms, as -well as other frees and slii-ubs, that it seems impossible
to land upon them, while others either rear their solitary heads like
huge rocks from tho waves, or are loosely pUed one upon the other.
The round form of many of tho latter is especially remai-kable : they
almost seem to have heen cut out with a chisel.
Om- bark was manned by four negroes and a wlUte skipper. At
fii-st we ran hefore the wind with fuU saUs, and the crew took advan
tage of this favom-able opportunity to make a meal, consisting of a
considerable quantity of flour of manioc, boUed flsh, roasted mil,
(Tm-kish corn), oranges, cocoa-nuts, and olher nuts of a smaUer
description ; indeed, tliere was oven white bread, which for blacks is a
luxury ; and I was gi-eatly delighted to see them so well taken care
of. In two hours the wind left us, and the crew were obliged to take
to the oars, the manner of using which struck me as very fatiguing.
At each dip of the oar into the water, the rower mounts upon a bencL.
before him, and then, during the stroke, throws himself off again
-with his full force. In two hours more, we left the sea, and taking a
left-hand dfrection, entered the river Geromerim, at the mouth of
which is an inn, where we stopped half an hour, and where I saw a
remarkable kind of lighthouse, consisting of a lantern affixed to a
rock. The beauty ofthe country is now at an end — that is, in the
eyes of the vulgar : a botanist avo old, at this point, flnd it more than
usually wonderful and magniflcent ; for the most beautiful aquatic
plants, especiaUy the Nymphia, the Pontedera, and the Cyprian grass
are spread out, both in the water and all round it. The two former
twine themselves to the very top of the nearest sapling, and the
Cyprian grass attains a height of from six to eight feet. The banks
of the river are fiat, and fringed with underwood and young frees ;
the background is formed by ranges of hUls. The little houses, which
are visible now and then, are built of stone, and covered with tUes,
yet, nevertheless, they present a tolerably poverty-stricken appearance.
After sailing up the river for seven hours, we reached, without
accident, Porto d' Estrella, a place of some importance, since it is
the emporium for aU the merchandise which is sent from the interior,
and then conveyed by water to the capital. There are two good
inns ; and, besides these, a large building (simUax to a Turkish Khan)
and an immense tiled roof, suppprted on sfrong stone pillars. The
flrst was appropriated to the merchandise, and the second to the
donkey drivers, who had arranged themselves very comfortably un
derneath it, and were preparing thefr evening meal over various fires
that were blazing away very cheerfuUy. Although fully admitting
the charms of such quarters for the night, we preferred retiring to
the Star Inn, where clean rooms and beds,' and skilfully spiced
dishes, possessed more attraction for us.
27th September. From Porto d' Estrella to Fetropolis, the distance
is seven leagues. This portion of the journey is generally performed
upon mules, the charge for which is four milreis (8s. Sd.) each, but as
we had been told in Bio Janefro that the road afforded a beautiful
walk, parts of it fraversing splendid woods, and that it was besides
much frequented, and perfectly safe, being the great means of com-

31 A woman's journey ROUND TIIE WOULD.
munication with Minas Gueras, we determined to go on foot, and
that the more wUlingly, as the Count wished to botanize, and I to
coUeet insects. The first eight miles lay through a broad vaUey,
covered with thick brambles and young trees, and surrounded with
lofty mountains. The vrild pine-apples at the side of the road pre
sented a most beautiful appearance ; they were not quite ripe, and
were tinged with the most deUcate red. Unfortunately, they are far
from being as agreeable to the taste as they are to the sight, and con
sequently are very seldom gathered. I was greatly amused with tho
humming-bfrds, of which I saw a considerable number of the smallest
species. Nothing can be more graceful and deUcate than these Uttle
creatures. They obtain their food from the calyx of the flowers,
round which they flutter like butterflies, and indeed are very often
mistaken for them in their rapid flight. It is very seldom that they
are seen on a branch or twig in a state of repose. After passing
through the valley, we reached the Serra, as the BrazUlians term the
summit of each mountain that they cross ; the present one was 3,000
feet high. A broad paved road, traversing -vfrgin forests, runs up
the side of the mountain.
I had always imagined that in virgin forests the trees had un
commonly thick and lofty trunks ; I found that this was not here the
case. The vegetation is probably too luxuriant, and the larger trunlis
are suffocated and rot beneath the masses of smaller trees, bushes,
creepers, and parasites. The two latter description of plants are
so abundant, and cover so completely the trees, that it is often im
possible to see even the leaves, much less the stems and branches.
Herr Schleierer, a botanist, assured us that he once found upon one
tree six and thfrty different kinds of creepers and parasites.
We gathered a rich harvest of flowers, plants, and insects, and
loitered along, enchanted with the magnificent woods and not less
beautiful views, which stretched over HU and dale, towards the sea
and its bays, and even as far as the capital itself.
Frequent truppas,* driven by negroes, as well as the number of
pedestrians we met, eased our minds of every fear, and prevented us
from regarding it as at aU remarkable that we were being continually
followed by a negro. As, however, we arrived at a somewhat lonely
spot,_ he sprang suddenly forward, holding in one hand a long knife
and in the other a lasso,t rushed upon us, and gave us to understand,
more by gestures than words, that he intended to murder, and then
drag us into the forest.
We had no arms, as we had been told that the road was perfectly
safe, and the only weapons of defence we possessed were our para
sols, if I except a clasp knife, which I instantly drew out of my
pocket and opened, fully determined to seU my life as dearly as pos
sible. We parried our adversary's blows as long as we could with
our parasols, but these lasted but a short time ; besides, he caught
hold of mine, which, as we were struggling for it, broke short off,
• Truppa is a term used to designate ten mules driven by a negro ; in most instances
a number of truppas are joined together, and often make up teams or caravans of 100 or
200 mules. Everything in the Brazils is conveyed upon mules.
-I- A cord, with a noose at the end ; the native inhabitants of South America use it no
skilfully that they catch the niost savage animals with it. America use it so

ATTEMPT AT MURDER BY A MAROON NEGRO. JJ
leaving only a piece of the handle in my hand. In tho struggle,
however, he dropped his knife, which rolled a few steps fi-om him ;
I instantly made a dash, and tliought I had got it, when he, more
quick than I, thrust me away with his feet and hands, and once more
obtained possession of it. He waved it furiously over my head, and
dealt me two wounds, a thrust and a deep gash, both iu tho upper
part of the left arm ; I thought I was lost, and despafr alone gave me
the com-age to use my own knife. I made a thrust at his breast ;
this he warded off, and I only succeeded in wounding him severely
in the hand. The Count sprang forward, and seized the fellow from
behind, and thus afforded me an opportunity of raising myself from
the ground. The whole affair had not taken more than a few seconds.
The negro's fury was now roused to its highest pitch by the wounds
he had received : he gnashed his teeth at us like a wild beast, and
flourished his knife with fi-ightful rapidity. The Count, in his turn,
had received a cut right across the hand, and we had been frrevoca--
bly lost, had not Providence sent us assistance. We heard the tramp
of horses' hoofs upon the road, upon which the negro instantly left
us and sprang into the wood. Immediately afterwards two horse
men tumed a corner of the road, and we hurried towards them; our
womids, which were bleeding freely, and the way in which our para
sols were hacked, soon made them understand the state of affairs.
They asked us which dfrection the fugitive had taken, and, springing
from thefr horses, hurried after him ; their efforts, however, would
have been fruitless, if two negroes, who were coming from the oppo
site side, had not helped them. As it was, the fellow was soon cap
tured. He was pinioned, and, as he would not walk, severely beaten,
most of the blows bemg dealt upon the head, so that I feared the
poor wretch's skull would be broken. In spite of this he never
moved a muscle, and lay, as if insensible to feeUng, upon the ground.
The two other negroes were obliged to seize hold of him, when he
endeavoured to bite every one within his reach, like a wild beast, and
carry him to the nearest house. Our preservers, as well as the
Count and myself, accompanied them. We then had our wounds
dressed, and afterwards continued our journey ; not, it is true, en
tirely devoid of fear, especially when we met one or more negroes-
but without any further mishap, and with a continually increasing
admiration of the beautiful scenery.
The colony of PetropoUs is situated in the midst of a vfrgin forest,
at an elevation of 2,600 feet above the level of the sea, and, at the
time of our -risit, it had been founded about fourteen months, -with
the especial purpose of furnishing the capital with certain kinds of
finiit and vegetables, which, in tropical climates, will thrive only in
very high situations. A small row of houses already formed a street,
and on a large space that had been cleared away stood the wooden
carcase of a larger building — the Imperial Villa, whii5h, however,
would have some difficulty in presenting anything like an imperial ap
pearance, on account of the low doors that contrasted strangely with
the broad, lofty -windows. The town is to be built around the viUa,
though several detached houses are situated at some distance away
in the woods. One portion of the colonists, such as mechanics, shop-
D

30 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND . THE ^VOELD.
keepers, &o., had been presented with small plots of ground for build
ing upon, near the villa; the cultivators of the soU had received
larger patches, althqugh not more than two or three yokes. What
misery must not these poor people have suffered in thefr nativa
country to have sought another hemisphere for the sake of a few yokes
of land! We here found the good old woman who had been our feUow
passenger from Germany to Rio Janefro, in company with her son.
, Her joy at being once more able to share in the toUs and labours of
her favourite had, in this short space of time, made her several years
younger. Her son acted as om- guide, and conducted us over the
infant colony, which is situated in broad ravines ; the surrounding
hills are so .steep, that when they are cleared of timber and converte'd
into gardens, the soft earth is easily washed away by heavy showers.
At a distance of four mUes from the colony, a waterfaU foams, down
' a chasm which it has worn away for itself. It is more remarkable
for its vaUey-like enclosure of noble mountains, and the solemn
gloom of the surrounding woods, than for its height or body of water.
29th September. In spite of the danger we had incurred in
coming, we returned to Porto d'EstreUa on foot, went on. board a
bark, sailed all night, and arrived safely in Rio Janeiro the nest
morning. Every one, both in PetropoUs and the capital, was so
astonished at the manner in which our Uves had been attempted, that
if we had not been able to show our wounds we should never have
been believed. The fellow was at first thought to have been di-unk
or insane, and it was not till later that we learned the real motives of
his conduct. He had some time previously been punished by his
master for an offence, and on meeting us in the wood, he no doubt
thought that it was a good opportunity of satisfying, with impunity,
his hafred against the whites.

CHAPTER IV.
JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE BEAZILS.
The To-whs of Morroqueimado (Novo Fbiburqo) and Aldea do "Pedro — Planta.
TIONS OF THE EUROPEANS — BURNING FoRESTS — VlRQIN FORESTS — LAST Se1"FLE-
ment or THE Whites— Visit to the Indians, also called Puris or Eabooles—
P^etuen to Eio Janeiro.
This second journey I also made in company of Count Berchthold,
after having resolved on penefrating into the interior of the country,
and paying a visit to the primitive inhabitants of the Brazils.
2nd October. We left Rio Janefro in the morning, and pro
ceeded in a steamer as far as the port of Sampajo, a distance of
twenty-eight mUes. This port Hes at the mouth of -the river Mac-
cacu, but consists of only one inn and two or three small houses.
We here hired 'mules to take us to the town of Morroqueimado,
eighty mUes off. t ; > ,,
I may take this opportunity of remar^g that'^it is the custom in
the Brazils to hfre the mules without muleteers— 'a great mark of
confidence on the part of the owners towards. fravellers. Arrived at
thefr destination the animals are deUvered up at a certain place
fixed on by the proprietor. We preferred, however, to take a mule
teer -with us, as we were not acquainted with the road, a piece of pre
caution we regretted the less, on finding the way frequently obstructed
with wooden gates, which had always to be opened and shut again.
The price for hfring a mule was twelve milreis (£1 6s.).
As we arrived at Porto Sampajo by 2 o'clock, we resolved on
going on as far as Ponte do Pinhefro, a distance of sixteen miles.
The road lay mostly through valleys covered with large bushes and
surrounded by low rocks. The eounti-y wore a general aspect of
wildness, and only here and there were a few scanty pasture-grounds
and poverty-stricken hute to be seen.
The Uttle town of Ponte de Cairas, which we passed, consists of a
few shops and vendas, a number of smaller houses, an inconsiderable
church, and an apothecary's; the principal square looked like a
meadow. Ponte do Pinhefro is rather larger. We experienced here
a very -good reception, and had an excellent supper, consisting of
fowls stewed in rice, flour of manioc, and Portuguese wine ; we had
also -good beds and breakfaste; the whole cost us, however, four
mUreis (8s. 8c?.).
Srd October. We did not set off tUl 7 o'clock : here, as every-
"\vhere else in the country, there is no getting away early in the
morning. The scenery was of the same character as that passed the day
before, except that we were approaching the more lofty moun
tains. The road was tolerably good, but the bridge across the streams
D 2

3S A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
and sloughs execrable; we esteemed ourselves fortunate whenever
we passed one -without being compeUed to stop. After a ride of
three hours (nine miles), we reached the great Sngar-Fazenda* de
Collegio, which in its arrangements is exactly like a large country
seat. To the spacious residence is attached a chapel, with the offices
lying all around ; the whole is enclosed by a high wall.
Far and wide stretched the flelds and low eminences, covered
•with sugar canes : unfortunately, we could not see the mode of pre
paring the sugar, as the canes were not yet ripe.
A planter's fortune in the BrazUs is calculated by the number of
his slaves. There were eight hundred of them on the plantation we
were viewing — a large property, since each male slave costs from
six to seven hundred milreis (£60 to £70).
Not far from this fazenda, to the right of the high road, Hes
another very considerable one, called Papagais ; besides these we saw
several smaller plantations, which lent a Uttle animation to the uni
formity of the scene.
''^St. Anna (sixteen miles distance) is a small place, consisting oi
only a few poor houses, a Uttle church, and an apothecary's ; the last
is a necessary appendage to every Brazilian vUlage, even though it
only contains twelve or flfteen huts. We here made a repast of eggs
with a bottle of wine, and gave our mules a feed of mil, for which a
cheating landlord, Herr Gebhart, charged us three mUreis (6s. 6d.)
To-day we did not proceed further than Mendoza (twelve mUes),
a stiU more insigniflcant place than St. Anna. A smaU shop and a
venda were the only houses at the road-side, tljough in the back
ground we perceived a manioe-fazenda, to which we paid a visit.
The proprietor was kind enough first to offer us some strong coffpe,
¦without milk (a customary mark of attention in the Brazils), and
then to conduct us over his plantation.
The manioc plant shoots out stalks from four to six feet in height,
with a number of large leaves at thefr upper extremities. The valuable
portion of fhe plant is its bulbous root, which often weighs two or
three pounds, and supplies the place of com aU through the Brazils.
It is washed, peeled, and held against the rough edge of a mUlstone,
tumed by a negro, until it is completely ground away. The whole
mass is then gathered into a basket, plentiftilly steeped in water, and
is afterwards pressed 'quite dry by means of a press. . Lastly it is
scattered upon large fron plates, and slowly dried by a gentle fire
kept up beneath. It now resembles a very coarse kind of flour, and
is eaten in two ways — wet and dry. In the first case, it. is mixed
with hot water until it forms a kind of po;rridge ; in the second, it is
handed round, under the form of coarse flour, in little baskets, and
every one at table takes as much as he chooses, and sprinkles it over
his plate.
4th October. The mountain ranges continue drawing nearer and
nearer to each other, and the woods become thicker and more luxu
riant. The various creeping plants are indescribably beautiful : not
only do they entfrely cover the ground, but they are so intertwined
• Fazenda is equivalent to our -word "plantation."

NOVO FRIBURGO, OE MOEEOQUEIMADO. 30
with the trees that their lovelv flowers hang on the highest branches,
and look Uke the blossoms oi the fr-ees themselves. But there are
likewise trees whose own yellow and red blossoms resemble the most
beautiful flowei-s; whUe there are others whose great white leaves
stand out like sUver fi-om the surrounding mass of flowery green.
Woods lUce these might weU be called " Sie giant gardens of the
world." The palm-fr-ees have here almost disappeared.
We soon reached the mountain range we had to cross, and on our
way often ascended such elevated spots that we had a free view
extending as far back as the capital. On the top of the mountain
(Alta da Serra, sixteen miles from Mendoza) we found a venda.
From this spot the distance to Morroqueimado is sixteen mUes, which
took us a long time, as the road is either up or down hill the whole
way. We were continually surrounded by the most magnificent
woodlands, and were only rarely reminded by a small plantation of
Jcab'i,* or mU, that we were in the neighbourhood of raen. AVe did
not perceive the Uttle town untU we had surmounted the last emi
nence and were in ite immediate vicinity. It Ues in a large &d
pictm-esque hoUow, surroimded by mountams at an elevation of 3,200
feet above the level of the sea. As night was near at hand, we were
glad enough to reach our lodgings, which were situated on one side
of the town, in the house of a German named Linderoth ; they were
very comfortable, and, as we afterwards found, exceedingly reason-
ahle, seeing that for om- rooms and three good meals a day we only
paid one mih-eis (2s. 2d.).
Sth October. The small town of Novo Friburgo, or Morroquei
mado, was founded about fifteen yeai-s since by French, Swiss, and
Germans. It contains not quite a hundred substantial houses, the
greater part of which form an extremely broad sfr-eet, while the
others Ue scattered about, here and there.
AA'e had afready heard, in Rio Janeiro, a great deal of the Messrs.
Beske and Freese, and been particularly recommended not to forget
to pay a visit to each. Herr Beske is a naturaUst, and resides here
with his wife, who is almost as scientific as himself. We enjoyed
many an hour in thefr entertaining society, and were shown many
interesting coUections of quadrupeds, bfrds, serpente, insects, &e. ;
the collection of these last, indeed, was more rich and remarkable
than that in the Museum of Rio Janefro. Herr Beske has always a
great many orders from Europe to send over various objects of natm-al
history. Herr Freeze is the director and proprietor of an establish
ment for boys, and preferred establishing his school in this cool
climate than in the hot town beneath. He was kind enough to show
us all his arrangemente. As it was near evening when we paid
our -risit, school was afready over ; but he presented all his scholars
to us, made them perform a few gymnastic exercises, and proposed
several questions on geography, history, arithmetic, &c., which, with
out exception, they answered very carefuUy and correctly. Hia
estabUshment receives sixty boys, and was quite fuU, although the
annual charge for each boy is one thousand nufreis (£108 6s. 8d.).
* Kahi is African grass, which is planted all over the Brazils, as grass never grows
there of its o-wn accord. It is very high and reed-like.

40 A WOMAN'S- JOUENEY EOUND ¦ THE WOELD.
6th October. We had at flrst intended to stop only one day ia>
Novo F-riburgo, and then continue our joumey. Unfortunately,
however, the wound which the Count had received on our excursion
to PetropoUs became, through the frequent use of tho hand and the
excessive heat, much worse; inflammation set in; and he was_ conse
quently obliged to give up aU ideas of going any further. With my
wounds 1 was more fortunate, for, as they were on the upper part of
the ai-m, I had been enabled to pay them a proper degree of care and
attention ; they were now proceeding very favourably, and neither-
dangerous nor troublesome. I had, therefore, no resource left but
either to pursue my journey alone, or to give up the most interesting
portion of it, namely, my -risit to the Indians. To this last idea I
could by no means reconcile myself; I inquired, therefore, whether
the journey coiUd be made with any degree of safety, and as I re
ceived a sort of half-satisfactory answer, and Herr Lindenroth found
me also a trusty guide, I procured a good double-barrelled pistol and
set out undaunted upon my trip.
AVe at flrst remained for some time in the midst of mountein
ranges, and then again descended into the warmer region beneath.
The vaUeys were generally narrow, and the uniform appearance of
the woods was often broken by plantations. The latter, however,
did not always look very promising, most of them being so choked
up with weeds that it was frequently impossible to perceive the plant
itself, especially when it was young and small. It is only upon the
sugar and coffee plantations that any great care is bestowed.
The coffee-trees stand in rows upon tolerably steep hiUocks. They
attain a height of from six to twelve feet, and begin to bear sometimes
as soon as the second, but in no case later than the third year, and are '
jiroductive for ten years. The leaf is long and sHghtly serrated, the
blossom white, while the fi-uit hangs down in the same manner as a
bunch of grapes, and resembles a longish cherry, which is flrst green,
then red, brown, and nearly black. During the time it is red, the
outer shell is soft, but ultimately becomes perfectly hard, and re
sembles a wooden capsule. Blossoms and fruit in fuU maturity are
found upon the trees at the same time, and hence the harvest lasts
nearly the whole year. The latter is conducted in two ways. The
berries are either gathered by hand, or large sfraw mats are spread'
underneath, and the trees well shaken. The fiist method is the more-
troublesome, but, without comparison, the better one.
Another novelty, whieh I saw here for the first time, were the
frequent burning forests, which had been set on fire to clear the .
ground for cultivation. In most cases I merely saw immense clouds '
of smoke curUng upwards in the distance, and desfred nothing more
earnestly than to enjoy a nearer -riew of such a conflagration. My
¦wish was destmed to be fulfilled to-day, as my road lay between a
burning forest and a buming rost.* The intervening space was not,
at the most, more than fifty paces broad, and was completely en
veloped in smoke. I could hear the cracking of the fire, and through
the dense vapour perceive thick, forked columns of flame shoot up-
• Host (roaster) is employed to denote partly a strip of low brushwood, partly the
place -«-here a wood has stood previously to being burnt.

BURNING FORESTS. 4I
words towards the sky, whUe now and then loud reports, Uke those
of a cannon, announced the fall of the large trees. On seeing my
guide enter this flery gulf, I was, I must confess, rather frightened ;
but I felt assured, on reflecting, that he would certainly not foolishly
risk his own life, and that he must laiow from experience that such
places were passable.
At the entrance sat two negroes, to point out the direction that
wayfarers had to foUow, and to recommend them to make as much
haste as possible. My guide ti-anslated for me what they said, and
spurred on his mule ; I followed lus example, and we both gaUoped
at fuU speed into the smoking pass. The burning ashes now flew
around us in all dfrections, while the suffocating smoke was even
more oppressive than the heat ; our beasts, too, seemed to have great
diffic-jlty in drawing breath, and it was as much as we could do to
keep them in a gaUop. Fortunately we had not above 500 or 600
paces to ride, and consequently succeeded in making our way safely
through. In the Brazils a conflagration of this kind never extends very far,
as the vegetation is too green and offers too much opposition. The
wood has to be ignited in several places, and even then the fire fre
quently goes out, and when most of the wood is burnt, mauy patches
are found unconsumed. Soon after passing this dangerous spot, we
came to a magniflcent rock, the sides of which must have risen
almost perpendicularly to a height of 600 or 800 feet. A number of
detached fragments lay scattered about the road, forming picturesque
¦groups. To my great astonishment, I learned from my guide that our
lodging for the night was near at hand ; we had scarcely ridden twenty
miles, but he affirmed that the next venda where we could stop,
was too far distant, I afterwards discovered that his sole object was
to spin out the journey, which was a very profitable one for him,
since, besides good Uving for himself, and fodder for his two mules, he
received four nufreis (8s. 8d.) a-day. We put up, therefore, at a solitary
venda, erected in the middle of the forest, and kept by Herr Molasz.
During the day we had suffered greatly from the heat ; the ther
mometer standing, in the sun, at 119° 75' Fah.
The cfrcumstance which must strike a traveller most forcibly in
the habits of the colonists and inhabitants of the Brazils, is the con
trast between fear and com-age. On the one hand, every one you
meet upon the road is armed with pistols and long knives, as if the
whole eoontry was overrun with robbers and murderers ; while, on
the other, the proprietors Uve quite alone on thefr plantations, and
-without the. least apprehension, in the midst of their numerous slaves.
The traveUer, too, fearlessly passes the night in some venda, situated
in impenefrable woods, with neither shutters to the windows nor
good locks to the doors, besides which, the owner's room is a consid
erable distance from the chambers of the gueste, and it would be utterly
impossible to obtain any assistance from the' servants, -who are all
slaves, as they Hve either in some corner of the stable, or in the loft.
At first I felt vei-y frightened at thus passing the night alone, sur
rounded by the wUd gloom of the forest, and fri a room that was only

ii , A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
very insecurely fastened ; but, as I was everywhere assured that such
a thing as a forcible enfry into a house had never been heard of, I
soon dismissed my superfluous anxiety, and enjoyed the most fran-
quU repose.
I know very few counfries in Em-ope where I should like to
traverse vast foreste, and pass the night in such awfuUy lonely
houses, accompanied by only a hfred guide.
On the 7th of October, also, we made only a short day's journey
of twenty mUes, to the smaU town of Canto GaUo. The scenery was
of the usual description, consisting of narrow, cfrcumscribed valleys
and mountains covered with endless foreste. If Uttle fazendas, and
the remains of woods which had been set on flre, had not, every
now and then, reminded us of the hand of man, I should have
thought that I was wandermg through some yet undiscovered part of
Brazil. The monotony of our journey was rather romanticaUy interrupted
by our straying for a short distence from the right road. In order
±0 reach it again, we were obliged to penetrate, by untrodden paths,
i;hi-ough the woods ; a task presenting difficulties of which a Euro
pean can scarcely form an idea. We dismounted from our mules,
and my guide threw back, on either side, the low-hanging branches,
and cut through the thick web of creepers ; while, one moment, we
were obUged to climb over broken ti-unks, or squeeze ourselves
Ijetween others, at the next we sank knee-deep among endless para
sitical plants. I began almost to despafr of ever effecting a passao-e,
and, even up to the present day, am at a loss to understand how we
succeeded in escaping fi-om this inextricable mass.
The Uttle to-wn of Canto GaUo is situated in a narrow vallev, and
.conteins about eighty houses. The venda stends apart, the town not
being visible from it. The temperature here is warm as in Rio
Janefro. On my return to the venda, after a short walk to the town, I
appUed to my landlady, in order to obtain a near and reaUy con-e'ct
idea of a BrazUian household. The good woman, however, gave her
self very little trouble, either in looking after the house or the kitchen ;
as is the case in Italy, this was her husband's business. "A neoress
and two young negroes cooked, the arrangements of the kitchen
being of the most primitive simplicity. The salt was pressed fine
with a bottle ; the potatoes, when boiled, underwent the same pro-
¦cess — the latter were also subsequently squeezed in the fryino--pan
with a plate, to give them the form of a pancake ; a pointed piece of
wood served for a fork, &e. There was a large fltre bui-nino- for
every dish. ''
Every one whose complexion was white, sat do-wn with us at
table. All the dishes, consisting of cold roast beef, black beans with
boiled cama secca,* potatoes, rice, manioc flour, and boiled manioc
roots, were placed upon the table at the same time, and every one
helped himself as he pleased. At the conclusion of our meal we had
• AU through Brazil, cania secca is one of the principal articles of food, both for
whites and blacks. It comes from Buenos Ayres, and consists of beef cut into lono- thin
broad stripes, salted and dried in the open air. =' '"•

VIRGIN FOEESTS.

4,3

strong coffee without miUc. The slaves had beans, cai-na secca, and
manioc fiour.
Sth October. Our goal to-day was the Fazenda Boa Esporanza,
twciity-lbm- mUes off. Fom- miles beyond Canto GaUo, we crossed a
small waterfall, and then entered one of tlie most magnificent virgin
forests I had yet beheld. A small path, on the bank of a Uttle brook
conducted us through it. Palms, with their ma,jestic tops, raised
themselves proudly above the other trees, which, lovingly interlaced
together, formed the most beautiful bowers ; orchids grew in wan
ton luxuriance upon the branches and twigs ; creepers and ferns
climbed up tlie trees, mmgling with the boughs, and forming thick
walls of blossoms and flowers, which displayed the most brilUant
colours, and exhaled the sweetest perfume ; deUcate humming-bfrds
twittered around our heads ; the pepper-pecker, with his brilliant
plumage, soared shily upwards ; parrots and parroquets were swing
ing themselves in the branches, and numberless beautifully marked
birds, which I only knew fi-om having seen specimens in the Museum,
inhabited this fafr-y grove. It seemed as if I was riding in some
fairy park, and I expected, every moment, to see sylphs and nymphs
appear before me.
I was so happy, tliat I felt richly recompensed for all the fatigue
of my journey. One thought only obscured this beautiful pictm-e ;
and that was, that weak man should dare to enter the lists with
the giant nature of the place, and make it bend before his wUl. How
soon, perhaps, may this profound and holy tranquillity be disturbed
by the blows of some daring- settler's axe, to make room for the wants
of men !
I saw no dangerous animals save a few dark green snakes, from
five to seven feet long ; a dead ounce, that had been stripped of its
skin ; and a Uzard, three feet in length, which ran timidly across our
path. I met with no apes ; they appear to conceal themselves deeper
in the woods, where no human footstep is likely to disturb them in
their sporte and gambols.
During the whole distence from Canto Gallo to the small vUlage
of St. Ritta (sixteen mUes), if it had not again been for a few coffee
plantations, I should have thought the place completely forgotten by
man. Near St. Ritta are some gold-washings in the river of the same
name, and not far from them, diamonds also are found. Since seek
ing or digging for diamonds is no longer an imperial monopoly,
every one is at Uberty to employ himself in this occupation, and yet
it is exercised as much as possible in secret. No one will acluiow-
ledge looking for them, in order to avoid paying the State ite share
as fixed by law. The precious stones are sought for and dug out at
certain spots, from heaps of sand, stones, and soU, which have been
washed down by the heavy rains.
I had found lodgings in a venda for the last time, the preceding
evening, at Canto GaUo. I had now to rely upon the hospitality of
the proprietors of the fazendas. Custora requires that, on reaching a
fazenda, any persou who desires to stop the middle of the day or the
night there, should wait outside and ask, through the servant, per-

44 A woman's journey ROUND THE WOELD.
mission to do so. It is not until his application is granted, which is
almost always the case, that the traveller dismounts fi-om his mule,
and enters the building.
They received me at the Fazenda of Boa Esperanza in the most
friendly manner, and, as I happened to arrive exactly at dinner-time
(it was between 3 and 4 o'clock), covers were immediately lai^ for
me and my attendant. The dishes were numerous, and prepared very
nearly fri the European fashion.
Great astonishment was manifested in every venda and fazenda^
at seeing a lady arrive accompanied only by a single servant. The
first question was, whether I -was not afraid thus to traverse the
woods alone ; and my guide was invariably taken on one side, and
questioned as to why I travelled. As he was in the habit of seeing
me collect flowers and insects, he supposed me to be a naturaUst, and
repUed that my journey had a scientific object.
After dinner, the amiable lady of the house proposed that I should
go and see the coffee-plantations, warehouses, &c. ; and I wilUngly
accepted her offer, as affording me an opportunity of viewing the^
manner in which the coffee was prepared, fi-om beginning to end.
The mode of gathering it I have afready described. When this
is done, the coffee is spread out upon large plots of ground, trodden
down in a pecuHar manner, and enclosed by low stone waUs, scarcely.
a foot high, with little drain-holes in them, to aUow of the water
running off in case of rain. On these places the coffee is dried by
the glowing heat of the sun, and then shaken in large stone mortars,
ten or twenty of which are placed beneath a "wooden scaffolding, fi-om,
which wooden hammers, set in motion by water power, descend into
the mortars, and easUy crush the husks. The mass, thus crushed, is
then placed in wooden boxes, fastened in the middle of a long table,
and having ¦ small openings at each side, tiirough which both the
berry itself and the husk faU slowly out. At the table are seated
negroes, who separate the berry from the husk, and then oast it into
shallow copper cauldrons, which are easily hoated. In these it is
carefidly turned, and remains until it is quite dried. This last pro
cess requfr-es some degree of care, as the colour of the coffee depends-
upon the degree of heat to which it is exposed ; if dried too quickly,
instead of the usual greenish colom-, it contracts a yellowish tinge.
On the whole, the preparation of coffee is not fatiguing, and even
the gatheiing of it is far from being as laborious as reaping is with
us. The negro stends in an upright posture when gathering the
berry, and is protected by the tree itself against the great heat of the
sun. The only danger he incurs is of being bitten by some venomous
snake or other — an accident, however, which, fortunately, rarely
happens. The work on a sngar-plan tation, on the confrary, is said to be
exceedingly laborious, particularly that portion of it which relates to
weeding the ground and cutting the cane. I have never yet wit
nessed a sugar-harvest, bnt, perhaps, may do so in the course of my
fravels. All work ceases at sunset, when the negroes are drawn up in-
front of thefr master's house for the purpose of being counted, and

VAZENDAS. 45
then, after a short prayer, have their supper, consisting of boiled
beans, bacon, cama secca, and manioc flour, handed out to tliem.
At sunrise, they again assemble, are once more counted, and, after
prayers and breakfast, go to work.
I had an opportunity of con-rincing myself in this, as well as in
many other fazendas, vendas, and private houses, that the slaves are
by far not so harshly treated as we Europeans imagine. They aro not
overworked, perform all their duties very leisurely, and are well kept. .
Thefr children are frequently the playmates of their master's chUdren,
and knock each other about as if they were aU equal. There may be
cases in which certain slaves are cruelly and undeservedly punished ;
but do not the like instances of injustice occur in Europe also ?
I am certainly very much opposed to slavery, and should greet
ite abolition with the greatest delight, but, despite this, I again
affirm that the negro slave enjoys, under the protection of the law,
a better lot than the free fellah of Egypt, or many peasants in
Europe, who stUl groan under the right of soccage. The principal
reason of the better lot of the slave, compared to that of the miserable
peasant, in the case in point, may perhaps partly be, that the pur
chase and keep of the one is expensive, while the other costs nothing.
The arrangements in the houses belonging to the proprietors of
the fazendas are extremely simple. The windows -ai-e unglazed, and
are closed at night with wooden shutters. In many instances, the
outer roof is the common covering of all the rooms, which are merely
separated from one another by low partitions, so that you can hear
eVery word your neighbour says, and almost the breathing of the
person sleeping next to you. The furniture is equally simple : a large
table, a few straw sofas, and a few chairs. The wearing, appai-el is
generaUy hung up against the walls ; the Hnen alone being kept in
tia eases, to protect it from the attacks of the ants.
In the country, the chUdren of even the most opulent persons run
about fi-equently. -without shoes or stockings. Before they go to bed'
they have their feet examined to see whether any sand-fleas have
nesded in them ;- aud if such be the case, they are extracted by the
elder negro chUdren.
9th October. Early in the morning I took leave of my kind,
hostess, who, Uke a truly careful housewife, had -wrapped up a roasted
fowl, manioc flour, and a cheese for me, so that I was well pi-ovi-
sionod on setting off.
The next station, Aldea do Pedro, on the banks of the Parahyby,,
was situated at a distance of sixteen miles. Our way lay througji'
magniflcent woods, and before we had fraversed half of it, we arrived
at the river Parahyby, one of the largest in the Brazils, and celebrated,
moreover, for the pecuUar character of its bed, which is strewed with
innumerable cUffs and- rocks ; these, owing to the low state of the
stream, were more than usually conspicuous. On every side rose
little islands, covered with small trees or underwood, lending a most
magic appearance to the river. During the rainy season, most of
these eUffs*. and rocks are covered with water, and the river then
appears more majestic On accoimt pf the rocks it" can only be navi
gated by sraall boate and rafts.

46 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
As you proceed along the banks, the scenery graduaUy changes.
The fore-part of the mountain ranges subside into low hiUs,. the
mountains themselves retreat, and the nearer you approach Aldea do
Pedro, the wider and more open becomes the vaUey. In the back
ground alone are stiU visible splendid mountain ranges, from which
rises a mountain higher than the rest, somewhat more naked, and
almost isolated. To this my guide pointed, and gave me to under
stand that our way lay over it, in order to reach the Puris, who Hved
beyond. About noon I arrived at Aldea do Pedro, which I found to be a
smaU -riUage -with a stone church ; the latter might, perhaps, contain
200 persons. I had intended continuing my journey to the
Puris the same day, but my guide was attacked vrith pains in his
knee, and could not ride further. I had, therefore, no resource but
to alight at the priest's, who gave me a hearty welcome ; he had a
pretty good house, immediately adjoining the church.
10th October. As my guide was worse, the priest offered me his
negro to replace him. I thankfuUy accepted his offer, but could not
set off before 1 o'clock, for which I was, in some respects, not sorry,
as it was Sunday, and I hoped to see a great number of the country
people flock to mass. This, however, was not the case ; although it
was a very flne day there were hardly thfrty people at church. The
men were dressed exactly in the European fashion ; the women wore
long cloaks -with coUars, and had white handkerchiefs upon thefr
heads, partly falUng over thefr faces as well; the latter they uncovered
in church. Both men and women were barefooted.
As chance would have it, I -witnessed a burial and a christening.
Before mass commenced, a boat crossed over from the opposite bank
of the Parahyby, and on reaching the side, a hammock, in which was
the deceased, was Ufted out. He was then laid in a coffin which had
been prepared for the purpose in a house near the churchyard. The
corpse was enveloped in a white cloth, with the feet aud half the head
protruding beyond it ; the latter was covered with a peaked cap of
shining black cloth.
The christening took place before the bm-ial. The person who
was to be christened was a young negro of fifteen, who stood with
his mother at the church door. As the priest entered the church to
perform mass, he christened him, in passing by, without much
ceremony or solemnity, and even without sponsors ; the boy, too,
seemed to be as little touched by the whole affair as a new born
infant. I do not believe that either he or his mother had the least
idea of the importance of the rite.
The priest then hurriedly performed mass, and read the burial
service over the deceased, who had belonged to rather a wealthy
family, and therefore was respectably interred. Unfortunately, when
they wanted to lower the corpse into ite cold restuig-place, tlie latter
was found to be too short and too narrow, and the poor wretch was
so tossed about, coffin and aU, that I expected every moment to see
hira roll out. But all was of no avail, and after a great deal of use
less exertion no other course was left but to place the coffln on one
side and enlarge the grave, which was done with much unwUUngness
and amid an xmceasing volley of oaths.

LAST SETTLEMENT OF TIIE WHITES. 47
This fatiguing work being at last finished, I returned to the house,
where I took a good dejeuner a la fourchette in company with the
priest, and then set out with my black guide.
We rode for some time through a broad valley between splendid
woods, and had to cross two rivers, the Parahyby and the Pomba, iu
trunks of trees hollowed out. For each of these wretched convey
ances I was obUged to pay one mifreis (2s. 2d.), and to incur great
danger into the bargain ; not so much on account of the stream
and the small size of the craft, as of om- mules, which, fastened by
their halter, swam alongside, and frequently came so near that I was
afraid that we should be every moment capsized.
After riding twelve mUes further, we reached the last settlement
of the whites.* On an open space, which had with difficulty been
conquered from the -rirgin forest, stood a largish wooden house,
sm-rounded by a few miserable huts, the house serving as the resi
dence of the whites, and the huts as that of the slaves. A letter
which I had brought from the priest procured me a welcome.
The manner of Uving in this settlement was of such a description
that I was almost tempted to beHeve that I was already among

The large house contained an entrance hall leading into four
rooms, each of which was inhabited by a white family. The whole
furniture of these rooms consisted of a few hammocks and straw mats.
The inhabitants were cowering upon the floor, playing with the
chUdren, or assisting one another to get rid of their vermin. The
kitchen was immediately adjoining the house, and resembled a very
large bam with openings in it ; upon a hearth that took up nearly
the entfre length of the barn, several fires were burning, over which
hung small kettles, and at each side were fastened wooden spits. On
these were fixed several pieces of meat, some of which were being
roasted by the fire and some cured by the smoke. The kitchen was
full of people : whites, Puris, and negroes, children whose parents
were whites and Puris, or Puris and negroes — in a word, the place
was like a book of specimens containing the most varied ramifications
of the three principal races of the country.
In the court-yard was an immense number of fowls, beautifully
marked ducks and geese; I also saw some extraordinarily fat pigs,
and some horribly ugly dogs. Under some cocoa-palms and tamarind-
trees, were seated white and coloured people, separate and in groups,
mostly occupied in satisfying their hunger. Some had got broken
basins or pumpkin-gourds before them, in which they kneaded up
with their hands boUed beans and manioc flour ; this thick and dis
gusting-looking mess they devoured with avidity. Others were eating
pieces of meat, which thejr likewise tore with thefr hands, and threw
into their mouths alternately with handfuls of manioc flour. The
chUdren, who also had their gourds before them, were obliged to
defend the contents valiantly ; for at one mpment a hen would peck
something out, and, at the next, a dog would run off with a bit, or
sometimes even a Httle pig would waggle up, and invariably give a
* Under the term "whites," are included not only those Europeans who have lately
immigi-ated, but also the Portuguese, who have been settled in the country for centuries.

48 A woman's, JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
most contented grunt when it had not performed tihe journey for
nothing. WhUe I was making these observations, I suddenly heard a merry
cry outside the court-yard ; I proceeded to the place from whieh it
issued, and saw two boys dragging towards me a large dark brown
serpent, certainly more than seven feet long, at the end of a bast-
rope. It was already dead, and, as far as I could leam from the
explanations of those about me, it was of so venomous a kind, that if
a person is bitten by it, he immediately swells up and dies.
I was rather startled at what I heard, and determined at least
not to set out through the wood just as evening was closing in, as I
might have to take up my quarters for the night under some tree ;
I therefore deferred my visit to the savages until the next morning.
The good people imagined that I was afraid of the savages, and ear
nestly assured me that they were a most harmless race, from whom
I had not the least to fear. As my knowledge of Portuguese was
limited to a few words, I found it rather difficult to make myself
understood, and it was only by the help of gesticulations, with now
and then a small sketch, that I succeeded in enlightening them as to
the real cause of my fear.
I passed the night, therefore, vrith these half savages, who con
stantly showed me the greatest respect, and overwhelmed me with
atten tion. A straw mat, which, at my request, was spread out under
shelter in the court-yai-d, was my bed. They brought me for supper
a roast fowl, rice, and hard eggs, and for dessert, oranges and tama
rind-pods; the latter contain a bro-wn, half sweet, half sour pulp,
very agreeable to the taste. The women lay all round me, and by
degrees we managed to get on wonderfully together.
I showed them the different flowers and insects I had gathered
during the day. This, doubtless, induced them to look upon me as a
learned person, and, as such, to impute to me a knowledge of medi
cine. They begged me to prescribe for different cases of Ulness :
bad ears, eruptions of the skin, and in the children, a considerable
tendency to scrofula, &e. I ordered lukewarm baths, frequent foment
ations, and the use of oil and soap, appUed externaUy and rubbed
into the body. May Heaven grant that these remedies have really
worked some good !
On the 11 th of October, I proceeded into the forest, in company with
a negress and a Puri, to iind out the Indians. At times, we had to
work our way laboriously through the thicket, and then again we
would find narrow paths, by which we pursued our journey with
greater ease. After eight hours' waUdng, we came upon a number of
Puris, who led us into their huts, situated in the immediate vicinity,
where I beheld a picture of the greatest" misery and want : I had
often met with a great deal of -wretchedness in my travels, but never
so much as I saw here !
On a small space, under lofty frees, flve huts, or rather sheds,
formed of leaves, were erected, eighteen feet long, by twelve feet
broad. Tiie frames were formed of four poles stuck in the ground,
•with another reaching across ; and the roof, of palm-leaves, through
which the rain could penetrate with the utmost faciUty. On three

VISIT TO THE INDIANS. 49
sides, these bowers were entfrely open. In the interior hang a ham
mock or two ; and on the ground glimmered a little fire, under a heap
of ashes, in which a few roots, Indian com, and bananas, were roast
ing. In one corner, under the roof, a small supply of provisions was
hoarded up, and a few gourds were scattered around : these are esod
by the savages instead of plates, pots, water jugs, &c. The long bows
and arrows, which constitute their only weapons, were leaning in the
background against the wall.
I found the Indians still more ugly than the negroes. Their com
plexion is a H^t bronze, stunted in stature, well-knit, and about the
middle size. They have broad and somewhat compressed features,
and thick, coal-black hafr, hanging straight down, which the women
sometimes wear in plaits fastened to the back of the- head, and some
times falUng down loose about them. Their forehead is broad and
low, the nose somewhat fiattened, the eyes long and narrow, almost
like those of the Chinese, and the mouth large, with rather thick
Hps. To give a stiU greater effect to all these various charms, a
peculiar look of stupidity is spread over the whole face, and is more
especially to be attributed to the way in which thefr mouths arc
always kept opened.
Most of them, both men and women, were tatooed with a reddish
or blue colour, though only round the mouth, in the form of a mous
tache. Both sexes are passionately fond of smoking, and prefer brandy
to everything. Their dress was composed of a few rags, which they
had fastened round thefr loins.
I had afready heard, in Novo Friburgo, a few interesting particu
lars concerning tho Puris, which I wUl here relate.
The number of the BrazUian Indians at the present time is cal
culated at about 500,000, who Uve scattered about the forests in the
heart of the country. Not more than six or seven families ever settle
on the same spot, which they leave as soon as the game in the neigh
bourhood has been kUled, and aU the fruit and roots consumed. A
large number of these Indians have been christened. They are always
ready, for a Uttle brandy or tobacco, to undergo the ceremony at the
shortest notice, and only regret that it cannot be repeated more fre
quently, as it is soon over. The priest believes that he has only to
perform the rite in order to gain another soul for heaven, and after
wards gives himself very Uttle concern, either about the instruction or
the manners and morals of his converts. These, it is true, are oaUed
Christians, or tamed savages, but Uve in the same heathen manner that
they pre-riously did. Thug, for instance, they contract marriages for
indefinite periods ; elect their Caciques (chiefs) from the strongest and
finest men ; follow aU their old customs on the occasion of marriages
and deaths, just the same as before baptism.
Thefr language is very poor : they are said, for example, only to
be able to count one and two, and are therefore obHged, when they
desfre to express a, larger number, to repeat these two figures con
tinuaUy. Furthermore, for to-day, to-morrow, and yesterday, they
possess only the word day, and express their more particular meaning
, by signs; for to-day, they say day, and feel thefr head, or point up
wards ; for to-morrow, they again use the word day, and point thefr

50 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
fingers in a straightforward direction ; and for yesterday, they use the
same -word, and point behind them.
The Puris are said to be pecuUarly adapted for tracking runawa-y
negroes, as their organs of smell are very highly developed. They
smeU the trace of the fugitive on the leaves of the trees ; and if the
negro does not succeed in reaching some stream, in which he can
either walk or swim for a considerable distance, it is asserted that he
can very seldora escape the Indian engaged in pursuit of him. These
savages are also readily employed in felling timber, and cultivating
Indian corn, manioc, &c., as they are very industrious, and think
themselves well paid with a little tobacco, brandy, or coloured cloth.
But on no account must they be compelled to do anything by force :
they are free men. They seldom, however, come to offer thefr assist
ance unless they are haU-starved.
I visited the huts of all these savages ; and as my guides had
trumpeted forth my praises as being a woman of great knowledge, I
was here asked my ad-rice for the benefit of every one who was ill.
In one of the huts, I found an old woman groaning in her ham
mock. On my drawing nearer, they uncovered the poor creature, and
I perceived that all her breast was eaten up by cancer. She seemed
to have no idea of a bandage, or any means of soothing the pain. 1
advised her to wash the wound frequently with a decoction of mal
lows,-* and, in addition to this, to cover it over with the leaves of the
same plant. I only trust that my advice procured her some trifling
reHef. This horrible disease unfortunately does not appear to be at all
rare among the Puris, for I saw many of their women, some of whom
had large hard swelUngs, and others even small tumours on the breast.
After having sufficiently examined everything in the huts, I went
with some of the savages to shoot parrots and monkeys. We had
not far to go in order to meet with 'both : and I had now an oppor
tunity of admiring the skill with which these people use their bows.
They brought down the birds even when they were on the wing, and
very seldom missed their mark. After shooting three parrots and an
ape, we returned to the huts.
The good creatures offered me the best hut they possessed, and
invited rae to pass the night there. Being rather fatigued by the
toilsome nature of my journey on foot, the heat, and the hunting ex
cursion, I very joyfully accepted' their proposition : the day, too, was
drawing to a close, and I should not have been able to reach the
settlement of the whites before night. I therefore spread out my
cloak upon the ground, arranged a log of wood so as to serve instead
of a pUlow, and for the present seated myself upon my splendid couch.
In the meanwhile, ray hosts were preparing the monkey and tho
parrots, by sticking them on wooden spits, and roasting them before
the flre. In order to render the meal a pecuUarly dainty one, they
also buried some Indian com and roots in the cinders. Thej' then
gathered a few large fresh leaves off the trees, tore the roasted apo
into several pieces with thefr hands, and placing a large portion of
it, as well as a parrot, Indian corn, and some roots upon the leaves^
• This wholesome plant grows very commonly in the Brazils.

VISIT TO THE INDIANS. jl
put it before me. My appetite was tremendous, seeing that I had
tasted nothing since the morning. I therefore immediately feU to on
the roasted monkey, whieh I found superlatively deUcious : the flesh
of the parrot was far from being so tender and palateable.
After our meal, I begged the Indians to perform one of their
dances for me — a request with which they readily complied. As it
was already dai-k, they brought a quantity of wood, which they
formed into a sort of funeral pile, and set on flre : the men then
formed a circle all round, and began the dance. They threw their
bodies from side to side in a most remarkably awkward fashion, but
always moving the head forwards in a straight Une. The women
then joined ui, remaining, however, at some little distance in the rear
of the men, and making the same awkward movements. They now
began a most horrible noise, which was intended for a song, at the
same time distorting their features in a frightful manner. One of
them stood near, playing upon a kind of stringed instrument, made out
of the stem of a cabbage-palm, and about two feet, or two feet and a
half, m length. A hole was cut in it in a slanting dfrection, and six
fibres of the stem had been raised up, and kept in an elevated position
at each end, by means of a small bridge. The fingers were theu used
for playing upon these as upon a guitar : the tone was very low, dis
agreeable, and hoarse.
This first dance they named the Dance of Peace or Joy. The men
then performed a much wUder one alone. After providing themselves
for the purpose with bows, arrows, and stout clubs, they again formed
a efrcle, but their movements were much quicker and wilder than
in the first instance, and they likewise hit about them with their
clubs in a horrible fashion. They then suddenly broke their rank,
sfrung their bows, placed their arrows ready, and went through the
pantomime of shooting after a fiying foe, uttering at the same time the
most piercing cries, which echoed through the whole forest. I started
up in affright, for I really beUeved that I was surrounded by enemies,
and that I was deUvered up into their power, without any chance of
help or assistance. I was heartUy glad when this horrible war-dance
came to a conclusion.
After retiring to rest, and when all around had graduaUy become
hushed into sUence, I was assailed by apprehensions of another
description : I thought of the number of wild beasts, and the horrible
serpents that might perhaps be concealed quite close to me, and then
of the exposed situation I was in. This kept me awake a long time,
and I often fancied I heard a rustUng among the leaves, as if one of
the dreaded animals were breaking through. At length, however,
my weary body asserted its rights. I laid my head upon my wooden
piUow, and consoled myself with the idea that the danger was, after
all, not so great as many of we travellers wish to have believed,
otherwise how would it be possible for the savages to Hve as they do,
without any precautions, in their open huts !
On the 12th of October, early in the morning, I took leave of the
savages, and made them a present of various bronze ornaments, with
which they were so deUghted that they offered me everything they
possessed. I took a bow with a couple of arrows, as mementos of

^2 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
my visit; returned to the wooden house, and having also distributed
similar presents there, mounted my mule, and arrived late in the
evening at Aldea do Pedro.
On the morning of the 13th of October, I bade the obUging priest
farewell, and with my attendant, who, by this time was quite re
covered, began my journey back to Novo Friburgo, and, in this in
stance, although I pursued the same road, was only three days
instead of four on the way.
On arriving I found Count Berchthold, who was now quite weU.
We determined, therefore, before returning to Rio Janeiro, to make a
little excursion to a fine waterfall, about twelve miles from Novo Fri
burgo. By mere chance we leamed that the christening of the
Princess Isabella would take place on the 19th, and, as we did not
wish to miss this interesting ceremony, we preferred retuming
directly. We followed the same road we had taken in coming, till
about four miles before reaching Ponte de Pinhefro, and then struck
off towards Porto de Praja. THs road was thirty-two mUes longer by
land, but so much shorter by sea, that the passage is made by steamer
from Porto de Praja to Rio Janefro in half an hour. The scenery
around Pinheiro was mostly duU and tedious, almost like a desert, the
monotony of which was only broken here and there by a few scanty
woods or low hills. We were not lucky enough to seethe mountains
again untU we were near the capital.
I must here mention a comical mistake of Herr Beske, of Novo
Friburgo, which we at flrst could not understand, but which after
wards afforded a good deal of amusement. Herr Beske had recom
mended us a guide, whom he described as a walking encyclopEedia of
knowledge, and able to answer all our questions about trees, plants,
scenery, &c., in ihe most coraplete raanner. We esteemed ourselves
exceedingly fortunate to obtain such a phoenix of a guide, and imme
diately took advantage of every opportunity to put his powers to the
test. He could, however, tell us nothing ,at all ; if we asked him tho
name of a river, he repHed that it was too small, and had no name.
Tho trees, likewise, were too insigniflcant, the plants too comraon.
This ignorance was rather too much ; we made inquiry, and found
that Herr Beske had not intended to send us the guide we had, but
his brother, who, however, had died six months pre-riously — a circum
stance which Herr Beske must have forgotten.
On the evening of the 18th of October, we arrived safely in Rio
Janeiro. We iramediately inquired about the christening, and heard
it had been put off till the 16th of November, and that on the 19th of
October only the Emperor's anniversary would be kept. We had thus
hurried back to no purpose, without visiting the waterfaU near Novo
Friburgo, which we might have admfred very much at om- leisure.
On om- return we only came eight miles out of our way.

CHAPTER V.
THE VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN.
Dbparture erom Rio Janeiro— Santos and St. Paulo— Ciecumnavication oe CiPE
Horn — The Straits op Magellan — Aerival in Valparaiso — 8th December, 1846,
TO 2nd Maech, 1847.
AVhen I paid £25 for my place in the flne EngUsh barque, " John
Renwick," Captain Bell, the latter promised me that he would be
ready to sail on the 25th of November at the latest, and would stop at
no intermediate port, but shape his course dfrect to Valparaiso. The
first part of this promise I beheved, because he assured me that every
day he stopped cost him £7 ; and the second, because, as a general
rule, I willingly beUeve every one, even ship captains. In both
particulars, however, was I deceived ; for it was not until the 8th of
December that I received a notice to go on board that evening and
then for the first time the captain informed me that he must run
into Santos, to lay in a stock of provisions, which were there rauch
cheaper than in Rio Janefro ; that he also intended clearing out a
cai-go of coal and taking in another of sugar. He did not tell rae tiU
we ai-rived in Santos itself, where he also assured rae that aU these
different matters would not take bim more than three or four days.
I took leave of my fiiends and went on board in the evening ; Count
Berchthold and Messrs. Geiger and Rister accompanying me to the
ship. Early in the moming of the 9th of December we weighed anchor,
but the wind was so unfavourable that we were obUged to tack the
whole day in order to gain the open sea, and it was not untU about
10 A.m. that we lost sight of land.
There were eight passengers besides myself; five Frenchmen, one
Belgian, and two citizens of MUan. I looked upon the latter as half
counfr-ymen of mine, and we were soon very good friends.
It was the second time this year that the two Italians were
making the voyage round Cape Horn. Thefr fli'st had not been for
tunate; they reached Cape Horn in winter, which in those cold
southem latitudes lasts frora April tUl about Noveraber.* They were
unable to cfrcumnavigate the Cape, being driven back by -riolent con
trary winds and storms, against which they strove for fourteen weary
days without making the least progress. The crew now lost courage,
and afiirmed that it would be advisable to turn back and wait for
more favourable -winds. The captain, however, was not of this
opinion, and succeeded so weU in working upon the pride of the crew
that they once more engaged in thefr confiict with the elements.
It was, however, for the last time, for the very sarae night a fremend-
* In the southem hemisphere the seasons, as regards the months, are exactly the
contrary to what they are in the northern. For instance, -when it is -svinter on one side
of the Equator it is summer on the other, &o, E 2

54 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD
OUS sea broke over the ship, tearing away all her upper works, and
sweeping the captain and six of the sailors overboard. The water
poured in torrents into the cabins, and drove every one from the
berths. The bulwarks, boats, and binnacle were carried clean off,
and the mainmast had to be cut away. The sailors then turned the
ship about, and after a long and dangerous voyage, succeeded in
bringing her, dismasted as she was, into Rio Janeiro.
'This story was not very encouraging, but the fine weather and
our good ship relieved us of aU anxiety. With regard to the vessel,
wo conld not have chosen a better. It had large, comfortable cabins,
an exceedingly good-natured and obliging captain, and a bill of fare
which must have contented the most dainty palate. Every day we
had roast or stewed fowls, ducks, or geese, fresh mutton or pork, eggs
variously prepared, plum-pudding and tarts ; to all this were added
side dishes of ham, rice, potatoes, and other vegetables; and for des
sert, dried fruit, nuts, almonds, cheese, &c. There was also_ plenty
of bread, fresh baked every day, and good wine. AVe all unanimously
acknowledged that we had never been so well treated, or had so good
a table in any sailing vessel before ; and we could, therefore, in this
respect, look forward to our voyage wifhout any apprehension.
"On the 12th of December we hove in sight of the mountain ranges
of Santos, and at 9 o'clock the same evening we reached a bay
which the captain took for that of the same name. Lighted torches
were repeatedly held over the vessel's side to sumraon a pilot ; no
pilot, however, raade his appearance, and we were therefore obliged
to trust to chance, and anchor at the mouth of the bay.
On the moming of the 13th a pilot came on board, and astonished
us with the intelligence that we had anchored before the wrong bay.
AV^e had some trouble in working our way out, and anchoring about
noon in the right one. A pretty little chateau-like buUding imme
diately attracted our attention. AVe took it for some advanced build
ing of the town, and congratulated one another on having jeached
our temporary destination so quickly. On approaching nearer, how
ever, we could perceive no signs of the town, and learned that the
building was a small fort, and that Santos was situat-ed in a second
bay, communicating with the first by a small arm of the sea. Un
luckily, the wind had by this time fallen, and we were obliged to be
at anchor all day, and it was not uiitU the 14th that a slight breeze
sprang up and wafted us into port.
Santos is most charmingly situated at the entrance of a large val
ley. Picturesque hiUs, adorned w-ith chapels and detached houses,
rise on each side, and immediately beyond are considerable mountain
ranges, spreading in a semi-circle round the valley, while a lovely
island forms a most beautiful foreground to the whole.
'We had scarcely landed before the captain informed us that we
must stop for at least flve days. The Italians, one of the Frenchmen,
and myself determined that we would take advantage of this delay
to make an excursion to St. Paulo, the largest inland town of the
BrazUs, and about forty miles from Santos. The same evening we
hired mules, for which we paid five mUreis (10s. lOd.) each, and set
out upon our trip.

EIO GEANDE and ST. PAULO. 55
loth December. Early in the morning, we ai-med ourselves with
well-charged doublo-bai-reled pistols, having been alarmed by ac
counts of tho.Mai-oon negroes,* about a hundred of whom were said
to be at that time lurking in the mountains, and to be so daring that
they extended their inroads as far as the vicinity of Santos itself.
The first eight mUes led through the valley to the lofty range of
mountains which we had to cross. The road was good, and more
frequented than any I had yet seen in the BrazUs. Handsome wooden
bridges traverse the rivers Vicente and Cubatao ; one of these bridges
is actually covered, but then every one is charged a pretty high toll.
In one of the vendas at the foot of the mountain we fortified our
selves with some excellent pan-cakes, laid in a stock of sugar-canes,
the juice of which is excessively refi-eshing in the great heat, and
then proceeded to scale the Serra, 3,400, feet high. The road was
execrable ; full of holes, pits, and puddles, in which our poor beasts
often sank above thefr knees. AVo had te skirt chasms and ravines,
with torrents roUing loudly beneath, yet not visible to us, on account
of the thick underwood which grew over them. Some part of the way,
too, lay through vfrgin forests, which, however, were not nearly so
beautiiriil or thick as some I had traversed on my excursion to the Puris.
There were hardly any palm-frees, and the few there were, remuided
us, from thefr thin stems and scanty foHage, of those of a colder
climate. The prospect from the Serra struck us all with astonishment.
The entfre valley -with its woods and prafries was spread far and wide
before our sight as far as the bays, the little detached huts being
quite indistinguishable, whUe only a part ofthe town and a few masts
of ships were perceptible in the distance.
A turning in the road soon shut out this charming picture from our
gaze ; we then left the Serra and entered upon a woody, uneven
tract, alternating with large level grass-plots, covered with low
brushwood, and innumerable mole-hUls, two feet high.
Half way from Santos to St. Paulo is a place called Rio Grande,
the houses of which lie, after the Brazilian fashion, so far apart, that
no one would suppose they had any connection with each other. The
o-wner of the mules used on this journey resides here, and here,
Hlcewise, the raoney for thefr hfre is paid. If the traveller desfres to
proceed immediately he has fresh mules given him, but, should hf
prefer stopping the aftemoon or night, he finds very good victuali
and clean rooms, for which he has nothing to pay, as they aie in
cluded in the five mifreis (10s. lOd.), charged for the mules.
We snatched a hasty morsel or two, and then hurried on, in order
to complete the second half of the road before sunset. The plain
became broader and broader the nearer we approached the town ; the
beauty of the scenery falls off very much, and for the first time since
I left Europe, did I see fields and hills of sand. The town itself,
situated upon a hiU, presents a tolerable appearance ; it conteins
• Maroon negroes are those negrroes who have run away from their masters. They
generally collect in large bands, and retire into the recesses of the virgin forests, whence,
hoTvever, they often emerge to steal and plunder; their depredations are not unixe-
quently accompanied by murder.

56 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
about 22,000 inhabitants, and ia a place of considerable import
ance for the internal coraraerce of the country. In spite of this,
however, it has neither an inn nor any other place where stran
gers can alight.
After inquiring for a long time in vain for lodgings, we were
dfrected to a German and a Frenchman, with the remark that both
received lodgers out of pure poUteness. We flrst went to the Ger
man, who very bluntly cut us short by saying that he had no room.
From him we proceeded to the Frenchman, who sent us to a Portu
guese, and on visiting the latter we received the same answer we had
obtained from the German.
We were now greatly embarrassed; the more so, because the
wearisome nature of our journey had so fatigued the Frenchman that
he was hardly able any longer to sit upright in his saddle.
In this critical position I thought of the letter of recommendation
that Herr Geiger had given me in Rio Janefro, for a German gentle
man of the name of Loskiel, who had settled here. I had intended
not to deUver this letter until the next day, but " necessity knows no
law," and so I paid my -risit the same evening.
He was kind enough to interest himself for us in the warmest
manner imaginable. He gave one of the gentlemen and myself
lodgings in his o-wn house, and our two companions in that of a
neighbour of his, inviting aU of us to dine at his table. We now learned
that in St. Paulo no one, not even an hotel-keeper, wUl receive a
stranger if he be not provided with a letter of recomraendation. It is
certainly a lucky thing for fraveUers that this strange custom is not
prevalent everywhere.
16th December. After ha-ring completely recovered ourselves
from the fatigues of our yesterday's ride, our flrst thought wasto view
the cmiosities of the town. We asked our hospitable host for infor
mation on this point, but he merely shrugged his shoulders, and said,
that he knew of no curiosities, unless, indeed, we chose to look upon
the Botanical Garden in the Ught of one.
We went out, therefore, after breakfast, and first of all -riewed the
to-wn, where we found that the number of large and well-built houses
was, in comparison to the size of the two places, greater than in Rio
Janefro, although even here, there was nothing like taste or pecuHar
architectural style. The- streete are tolerably vride, but present an
extraordinarily deserted appearance, the universal sUence being
broken only by the insupportable creaking of the counfry people's
carte. These carts rest upon two wheels, or rather two wooden disks,
which are often not even hooped vrith fron to keep them together.
The axle, which is Ukewise of wood, is never greased, and thus causes
the demoniacal kind of music to which I alluded.
A pecuUarity of dress, very remarkable in this hot climate, is here
prevalent : aU the men, -with the exception of the slaves, wear large
cloth cloaks, one half of which they throw over thefr shoulder ; I
even saw a great many women enveloped in long, broad cloth capes.
In St. Paulo there is a High School. Those who study there, and
come fr-om the counfry or the smaller towns, are exposed to the in
convenience of being refused lodgings under any one's roof. They

SANTOS. gg
are obUged to hire and furnish houses for themselves, and be their
own housekeepers.
AVe -visited several churches which possess very Httle worth looking
at, either inside or out, and then concluded by proceeding to the
Botanical Garden, which also contains no object of any interest, with
tlie exception of a plantation of Chinese teas.
All our sight-seeing did not occupy us more than a few hours, and
we could very conveniently have begun our journey back to Santos
the next; morning but the Fi-enohman, who, on account" of the great
fiitigue he had suffered, had not accompanied us in our walk, begged
us to put off our return for half a day longer, and to arrange it in
such a manner, that we should pass the night in Rio Grande. We
wUlingly acceded to his -wish, and set out upon the afternoon of the
17th, after thanking our kind host most cordiaUy for his hospitable
entertainment. In Rio Grande we found an excellent supper, con
venient sleeping apartments, and a good breakfast the next morning.
About 12 o'clock on the 18th of Deceraber, we arrived safely
m Santos, and the Frenchraan then confessed to us he had felt so
fatigued on arri-ring at St. Paulo, from his long ride, that he was
afi-aid of being seriously Ul. However, he recovered himself com
pletely in a few days, but assured us, that it would be some time before
he again accompanied us on one of our trips.
The fii-st question we put to the captain was : " AVhen do you
weigh anchor ? " to which he very poUtely replied, that as soon as he
had cleared out 200 tons of coal, and shipped 6,000 sacks of sugar,
he shoidd be ready to set sail, and in consequence of this we had to
remain three whole weary weeks in Santos.
We were stUl in Santos when we celebrated Now- Year's Day,
1847, and at last, on the 2nd of January, were lucky enough to bid the
town adieu ; but did not proceed far, for in the first bay the wind feU,
and did not spring up again till after midnight. It was now Sunday,
and no true Englishraan wUl set sail on a Sunday ; we remained,
therefore, lying at anchor the whole of the Srd of January, looking with
very melancholy feelings after two ships, whose captains, in spite of
the hoUness of the day, had profited by the fresh breeze, and saUed
gaily past us.
On the same evening we saw a vessel, which our captain affirmed
was a slaver, run into the bay. It kept as far as possible ft-om the
fort, and cast anchor at the most outward extremity of the bay. As
the night was clear and moonUght we walked late upon deok, when,
true enough, we saw Uttle boate laden with negroes puUing in shore.
An officer, indeed, came from the fort to inquire into the doings of
this suspicious craft ; but the owner seemed to afford him a satisfactory
account, for he left the ship, and the slaves continued during the
whole night to be qmetly and undisturbedly smuggled in as before.
On the moming of the 4th of January, as we sailed past the vessel,
we beheld a great number of the poor creatures still standing upon
the deck. Our captain inquired of the slave-dealer how many slaves
he had had on board, and we learned with astonishment that the nmn
ber amounted to 670. Much has afready been said and written upon

58 A woman's journey ROUND THE WOELD.
this horrible trade ; it is everywhere execrated, and looked upon as a
blot on the human race, and yet it still continues to fiourish.
This day promised to turn out a very raelancholy one in many
respecte. We had hardly lost sight of the slaver before one of our own
crew had nearly committed suicide. The steward, a young mulatto,
had contracted the bad habit of indulging too much in Uquor. The
captain had often threatened to punish him severely, but aU to no
purpose ; and this morning he was so intoxicated that the saUors were
obliged to lay him in a corner of the forecastle, where he might slee'p
himself sober. Suddenly, however, he leapt up, clambered on to the
forepart of the ship, and threw himself into the sea. Luckily, it was
almost a calm, the water was quite still, and we had hopes of saving
him. He soon reappeared at the side of the vessel, and ropes were
thrown hira from every side. The love of life was awakened in his
breast, and caused him to grasp involuntarUy at the ropes, but he had
not strength enough to hold on. He again sank, and it was only
after great exertion that the brave sailors succeeded in rescuing him
from a watery grave. Hardly had he recovered his senses ere he
endeavoured to throw himself in again, exclaiming that he had no
wish to live. The man was ra-ring mad, and the captain was obliged
to have him bound hand and foot, and chained to the mast. On the
foUowing day he was deprived of his office, and degraded to the rank
of subordinate to a new steward.
5th January. Mostly calms. Our cook caught, to-day, a flsh
three feet long, and remarkable for the manner in which it changed
colom-. AVhen it came out of the water it was a bright yellow, to
which colour it owes its name of Dorado. At the expfration of one
or two minutes the brUliant yellow changed into a light sky-blue,
and after its death its belly again tumed to a beautiful light yellow,
but the back was a brownish green. It is reckoned a great deUcacy,
but, fbr my own part, I found its flesh rather dry.
On the Oth of January we were off the Rio Grande. In the evening
everything seemed to promise a violent storm ; the captain consulted
his barometer every second almost, and issued his orders according to
its indications. Black clouds now began to drive towai-ds us, aud
the wind increased to such a pitch that the captain had all the hatch
ways carefuUy fastened down, and the crew ready to reef the sails at
a moraent's notice. At a Uttle past 8, the hurricane broke forth.
Flash after flash of Ughtning darted across the horizon from every
side, and Ughted the sailors in thefr work ; the agitated waves beino-
illuminated with the most dazzling brilliancy. The raajesfa'c rolUng of
the thunder drowned the captain's voice, and the white foaraing bU
lows broke with such terrific force over the deck, that it appeared as
if they would carry everything -with them into the depths of the
ocean. Unless there had been ropes sfretehed on each side of the ship
for the sailors to cateh hold of, the latter would most certainly have
been washed away. Such a storm as this affords much food for re
flection. 10U are alone upon the boundless ocean, far from all human
help, and feel more than ever that yom- Hfe depends upon the Al
mighty alone. The man who, in such a dreadful and solemn moment,

CO.iST OF PATAG0NI.\. 59
can stUl believe there is no God, must indeed be irretrievably sti-udc
with mental bUndness. A feeUng of fa-anquil joy always comes over
me during such great con-vulsions of Natm-o. I very often had myself
bound near the binnacle, and let the tremendous waves break over me,
in order to absorb, as it were, as much of the spectacle before mc as
possible; on no occasion did I ever feel alarmed, but always confident
and resigned.
At the expfration of four hours the storm had worn itself out, and
was succeeded by a perfect calm.
On the 10th of January we caught sight of several sea- turtles and
a whale. The latter was only a young one, about forty feet long.
llth January. AA''e were now off the Rio Plata,* and found the
temperature very perceptibly cooler.
Up to the present time we had seen no signs of sea-tengle or mol-
luscaB, but during the night we beheld some moUuscas for the first
time, shining Hke stars at a great depth below the sm-face of the
water. In these latitudes the consteUation of the southern cross keeps in
creasing in brilUancy and beauty, though it is far from being as won
derful as it is said to be. The stars in it, four in number, and disposed
somewhat in the following manner, *»*^ are, it is true, large and
splendid ; but they did not excite, either in myself or any other person
of our company, much more admiration than the other constellations.
As a general rule, many fravellers exaggerate a great deal. On the
one hand, they often describe things which they have uever seen
themselves, and only know from hearsay ; and, on the other, they
adorn what they really have seen -with a little too much imagination.
16th January. In 37° South lat. we feU in with a strong em-rent,
i-unning from south to north, and having a yellow streak down the
middle of it. The captain said that this streak was caused by a shoal
of small fishes. I had some water drawn up in a bucket, and really
found a few dozen U-ring creatures, which, in my opinion, however,
belonged rather to some species of mollasca3 than to any kind of fish.
They were about three-quarters of an inch long, and as transparent
as the raost deUcate water-bubbles ; they were marked with white
and light yeUow spots on the forepart of thefr bodies, and had a few
feelers underiieath.
In the night of the 20th to 21st of January we were overtaken by a
very -riolent storm, which so damaged our mainmast that the captain
determined on running into some haven on the first opportunity, and
puttmg in a new one. For the present the old one was made fast
with cablfes, iron chains, and braces.
In 43" North lat. we saw the first sea-tengle. The temperature
had by this time very perceptibly decreased in warmth, the glass
often standing no higher than 59° or 63° Fah.
23rd January. We were so near Patagonia that we could dis
tinctly make out the outline of the coast.
26th January'. We stUl kept near the land. In 50° South lat.
we saw the chalky mountains of Patagonia. To-day we passed the
Falkland Islands, which stretched from 51° to 52° South lat. We did
• The Rio Plata is one of the largest rivers in Brazil.

60 A WOMAN'S JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
not see them, however, as we kept as near the land as possible, in order
not to miss the Sfraite of Magellan. For some days the captain had
been studying an English book, which, in his opinion, clearly proved
that the passage thi-ough the Straite of MageUan was far less dan
gerous and far shorter than that round Cape Hom. I asked him how
It happened that other saUors knew nothing of this valuable book,-
and why all vessels bound for the western coast of America went
round Cape Horn ? He could give me no other answer than that the
book was very dear, and that that was the reason no one bought it.*
To me this bold idea of the captain's was exfremely welcome. I
already pictured in my raind the six-feet teU Patagonians putting off
to us in thefr boate ; I saw myself taking thefr muscles, plants, orna
ments, and weapons in exchange for coloured ribbons and handker
chiefs; whUe, to render my satisfaction complete, the captain said that
he should land at Port Famine (a Patagonian haven) to supply the
injured portion of our mainmast. How thankful was I, in secret, to
the storm for having reduced our ship to her present condition.
Too soon, however, were all my flattering hopes and dreams dis
pelled. On the 27th of January the latitude and longitude were
taken, and it was then found that the Sfraita of MageUan were
twenty-seven minutes (or nautical mUes) behind us, but as we were
becalmed, the captain promised, in case a, favourable -wind should
spring up, to' endeavour to retm-n as far as the Sfraite.
I placed no more confldence in this promise, and I was right.
About noon a scarcely perceptible breeze sprang up, which the cap
tain, in high spirits, pronounced a favourable one — for romiding Cape
Horn. If he had ever really intended to pass through the Straits, he
would only have had to cruise about for a few hours, for the -wind
soon changed and blew dfrectly in the desired dfrection.
20th January. AVe were constantly so near Terra del Fuego
that we could make out every bush -with the naked eye. AA'^e could
have reached the land in an hour, without retarding our voyage in
the least, for we were fi-equently becalmed; but the captain would
not consent, as the wind might spring up every instant.
The coast appeared rather steep, but not high ; the foregromid was
composed of meagre pasture alternating -with tracts of sand, and in
the background were ranges of woody hiUs, beyond which rose snow-
covered mountains. On the whole, the country sfruck me as being
much more inhabitable than the Island of Iceland, which I had visited
a year and a half previously. The temperature, too, must here be
higher, as even at sea we had 54° 5' and 59° Fah.
I saw three kinds of sea-tangle, but could only obtain a specimen
of one, resembUng that which I had seen in 44° South lat. The
second kind was not very different, and it was only the third that
had pointed leaves, several of which together forraed a sort of fan
several feet long and broad.
On the 30th of January we passed very near the Staten Islands,
lying between 66° and 57° South lat. They are coraposed of bare
• other captains assured me that it -was only possible for men-of--war to pass through
t-fae Straits of Magellan, as the passage requires a great number of hands. Every even
ing the ship must be brought to an anchor, and the crew must constantly bc in readiness
to trim or reef the sails, on account of the various Vfinds which are always springing up.

ROUNDING CAPE HORN. 61
high mountains, md separated from Terra del Fuego by an arm of
the sea, caUed Le Maire, only seven miles long and about the same
distance across.
The captain told us, seaman-like, that on ono occasion of his saU
ing through these Sfraits, his ship had got into a strong current, and
regularly danced, turning roimd during the passage at least a thou
sand times ! I had afready lost a great deal of confidence in the
captain's tales, but I kept my eye steadily fixed upon a Hamburgh brig,
that happened to be saUing ahead, to see whether she would dance ;
but neither she nor om- own bark was so obliging. Neither vessels
tumed even once, and the only circumstance worthy of remark was
the heaving and foaming- of the waves in the Strait, whUe at both
ends the sea lay majestically calm before our eyes. 'We had passed
the Sfrait in an hour, and I took the Uberty of asking the captain
why our ship had not danced, to which he replied that it was because
we had had both wind and current with us. It is, perhaps, possible
that under other cfrcumstances the vessel might have turned round
once or twice, but I sfrongly doubt its doing so a thousand times.
This was, however, a favoui-ite number with our worthy captain.
One of the gentlemen once asked him some question about the first
London hotels, and was told that it was impossible to remember thefr
names, as there were above a thousand of the first class.
Near the Strait Le Mafre begins, in the opinion of seamen, the
dangerous part of the passage round Cape Horn, and ends off the
Sfraits of Magellan. Imraediately we entered it we were greeted
-with two most violent bursts of wind, each of which lasted about
half an hour ; they came from the neighbouring icy chasms m tho
mountains of Terra del Fuego, and split two sails, and broke the great
studding sail-yard, although the sailors were numerous and quick.
The distance from the end of the Strait Le Maire to the extreme
point of the Cape is calculated to be not more than seventy miles,
and yet this trifiing passage cost us three days.
At last, on the 3rd of February, we were fortunate enough to
reach the southernraost point of America, so dreaded by all mariners.
Bare, pointed moimtains, one of which looks like a crater that has fallen
in, form the extremity of the mighty mountain-chain, and a magni
ficent group of colossal black rocks (basalt ?), of all shapes and sizes,
are scattered at some distance in advance, and are separated only by
a small arm of the sea. The esfreme pomt of Cape Horn is 600 feet
high. At this spot, according to our works on geography, the Atlan
tic Ocean changes its name and assumes that of the Pacific. SaUors,
however, do not give it the latter designation before reaching the
Straite of MageUan, as up to this point the sea is continuaUy stormy
and agitated, as we leamed to our cost, being driven by violent storms
as far back as 60° South lat. Besides this, we lost om- top-raast,
which was broken off, and which, in spite of the heavy sea, had to
be replaced ; the vessel, meanwhUe, being so tossed about, that we
were often unable to take our meals at the table, but were obliged
to squat do'wn upon the ground, and hold our plates in our hands.
On one of these fine days the steward stumbled with the coffee-pot,
and deluged me with its burning contents. Luckily, only a smaU

62 A AVOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WOELD.
portion feU upon my hands, so that the accident was not a yery seri
ous one.
After battling for fourteen days with winds, and waves, with rain
and cold,* we at last arrived off the western entrance to the Straits of
. MageUan, having accomplished the most dangerous portion of our
voyage. During these fourteen days we saw very few whales or
albatrosses, and not one iceberg.
We thought that we should now quietly pursue our way upon the
placid sea, trusting confidently in ite peaceful name. For three whole
days we had nothing to complain of; but in the night of the 19th to
the 20th of February, we were overtaken by a storm worthy ofthe
Atlantic itself, which lasted for nearly twenty-four hours, and cost us
four sails. We suffered most damage from the tremendous waves,
which broke with such fury over the ship, that they tore up one of
the planks of the deok, and let the water into the cargo of sugar.
The deck itself was like a lake, and the portholes had to be opened
in order to get rid of the water more quickly. The water leaked in
the hold at the rate of two inches an hour. We could not light any
fire, and were obliged to content ourselves with bread and cheese
and raw ham, which we with great difficulty conveyed to our mouth
as we sat upon the ground.
The last cask of lamp oil, too, fell a sacriflce to this storm, having
been torn from its fastenings, and broken into pieces. TTie captaia
was very apprehensive of not having enough oU to light the compass
tUl we arrived at Valparaiso ; and all the lamps on the ship were, in
consequence, replaced by candles, and the small quantity of oil re
maining kept for the compass. In spite of all these annoyances, we
kept up our spirits, aud even, during the storm, we could scarcely
refrain from laughing at the comical positions we all feU into when
ever we attempted to stand up.
The remainder of the voyage to Valparaiso was calra, but exces
sively disagreeable. The captain wished to present a magnificent
appearance on arri'ring, so that the good people might believe that
wind and waves could not injure his fine vessel. He had the whole
ship painted from top to bottom with oil colours ; even the littjp doors
in the cabins were not spared this infUction. Not content with creating
a most horrible disturbance over our heads, the carpenter invaded
even our cabins, filUng all our things with sawdust and dirt, so that
we poor passengers had not a dry or quiet place of refuge in the
whole ship. Just as much as we had been pleased with Captain
Bell's poUteness during aU the previous part of the voyage, were we
indignant at his behaviour during the last five or six days. But we
could offer no resistance, for the captain is an autocrat on board his
own ship, knowing neither a constitution nor any other Umit to his
despotic power.
At 6 o'clock in the morning of the 2nd of March, we ran into the
port of Valparaiso.
• The glass sank in the day-time to 48° -and 50°, and at nightto 28° below Zero.

CHAPTER VI.
AEEIVAL AND RESIDENCE IN VALPARAISO.
Appearance of the To-wn — Public Buildinos — A few Observations on the Mannkrs
AND Customs op the Lower Classes — The Eating-Houses oe Polanka — The
CUBEUB (Angelitoj^Tue Railroau— Goi.d ane Silver Mines,
The appearance of A'alparaiso is dull and monotonous. The town is
laid out in two long streets at the foot of dreary hills, which look lilco
gigantic masses of sand, but which really consist of large rocks
covered with thin layers of earth and sand. On some of these hills
are houses, and on one of them is the churchyard, which, combined
with the wooden church towers, built in the Spanish style, reUeves,
in a sUght degree, the wearisome uniformity of the prospect. Not
less astounding than the deserted look of the port, was the miserably
wretched landmg-place, which is composed of a high wooden quay,
about 100 feet long, stretching out into the sea, with narrow steps,
like ladders, against the side. It was a most pitiable sight to see a
lady attempting to go up or down : all persons who were in the least
weak or awkward, had to be let down with ropes.
The two principal streets are tolerably broad, and very much fre
quented, especiaUy by horsemen. Every Chilian is bom a horseraan ;
and some of thefr horses are such fine,animals, that you involuntarily
stop to admire their proud action, thefr noble bearing, and the nice
symmetry of their limbs.
The stfrrups are curiously formed, consisting of long, heavy pieces
of wood, hollowed out, and into which the rider places the tips of his
feet. The spurs are remarkably large, and are often about four inches
in diameter. The houses are constructed completely in the European style,
with flat Italian roofs. The more ancient buildings have only a
ground floor, and are small and ugly, while most of the modern ones
have a spacious and handsome first floor. The interior, too, of tho
latter is generaUy very tasty. Large steps conduct into a lofty well-
ventilated entrance-hall on the fii-st floor, fi-om which the visitor
passes, through large glass doors, into the drawing-room and other
apartmente. The di-awing-room is the pride, not only of every
European who has settled in the country, but also of the Chilians,
who often spend very large sums in the decorations. Heavy carpets
cover all the flodr; rich tapestry hangs against the walls ; furniture and
mUTors of ihe most costly description are procured from Europe ; and
on the tables are strewed magnificent albums, adorned with the most
artistic engravings. The elegant flre-places, however, convinced me

64 A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
that the winters here are not as mUd as the inhabitants would fain
have had me believe.
Of all the public buildings, the Theatre and the Exchange are the
flnest. The interior of the former is very neat, and contains a roomy
pit and two gaUeries, portioned off as boxes. The inhabitants of the
town patronise the theatre a great deal, but not so much on account
of the Italian operas played there, as for the sake of possessing a
common place of meeting. The ladies always come in full dress, and
rautual visits are made in the boxes, aU of which are very spacious,
and beautifully furnished with mirrors, carpets, sofas, and chairs.
The second flne building, the Exchang'e, comprises a good-sized,
cheerful hall, -with convenient rooms adjoining. From the haU there
is a pleasant view over the town and sea. The buUding belonging to
the " German Club" contains some flne apartments, with reading and
card rooms.
The only thing that pleased me about the churches were the
towers, which consist of two or three octagons, placed one above the
other, and each one supported by eight columns. They are composed
of wood, the altars and pillars of the nave being of the same material.
The nave itself presents rather a poor and naked appearance, occa
sioned in a great degree by the absence of sittings. The men stand,
and the women bring -with them Httle carpete, which they spread
before them, and on which they either kneel or sit. Ladies in easy
cfrcumstances have thefr carpets brought by thefr maids. The cathe
dral is called La Matriza.
The public promenades of Valparaiso are not very pleasant, as
most of the side-walks and roads are covered almost a foot deep with
sand and dust, which the sUghtest breath of -wind is sufficient to raise
in thick clouds. After 10 o'clock in the moming, when the sea-
breeze begins blowing, the whole town is very often enveloped by it.
A great many persons are said to die here fi-om diseases of the chest
and lungs. The most frequented places of resort are Polanka and the
Ughthouse. Near the latter, especially, the prospect is very beautiful,
extending, as it does, on a cleai- day, as far as some of the majestic
snow-covered spurs of the Andes.
The streets, as I have already mentioned, are tolerably Hvely : pecu
Har omnibuses and cabriolets traverse thera fi-equently. The fare from
one end of the town to the other is one real (2id.) There are also a great
number of asses, mostly employed in carrying water and provisions.
The lower classes are remarkably ugly. The Chilians have a
yellowish brown complexion, thick black hafr, most unpleasant fea
tm-es, and such a pecuHarly repulsive cast of countenance, that any
physiognomist woxdd straightway pronounce them to be robbers or
pickpockets at the least. Captain BeU had told me a great deal of the
extraordinary honesty of these people ; and, in his usual exaggerated
manner, assured us that a person might lea-ve a purse of gold lying
in the street, -with the certainty of finding it the next day on thi
same spot ; 'but, in spite of this-, I must frankly confess, that for mr
own part, I should be rather fearfal of meeting these honest creatures,
even by day, in a lonely spot, -with the money in my pocket.
I had subsequently opportunities of con-rincing myself of the

MANNEES AND CUSTOMS OF THE LOWEE CLASSES, i 65
fallaciousness of the captain's opinion, for I often met "with convicts,
chained together, and employed in the public buUdings and cleaning
the roads. The windows and doors, too, are secured with holts and
bars in a manner almost unknown in any town of Europe. At night,
in all the streets, and on all the hills wluch are inhabited, are parties
of poUce, who call out to one another in exactly the same manner that
the advanced posts do during a campaign. Mounted patrols also
traverse the town in every dfrection, and persons returning alone
fi-om the theati-e or from a pai-ty, often engage their services to con
duct them home. Bm-glariously entering a house is punished with
death. All these precautions do not, most decidedly, argue much for,
the honesty of the people.
I wUl take this opportunity of mentioning a scene, of which I was
myself an eye-witness, as it happened before my window. A little
boy was carrying a number of plates and dishes on a board, when the
latter unluckUy sUpped from his grasp, and aU the crockery lay in frag-
raente at his feet. At flrst, the poor feUow was so frightened that he
stood Uke a column, gazing -with a flxed look at the pieces, and then
began to cry most bitterly. The passers-by stopped, it is ti-ue, to look
at the unfortunate child, but did not e-yince the least compassion ;
they laughed, and went on. In any other place, they would have
raised a Uttle subscription, or at least pitied and consoled him, but
certainly would not have seen anything to laugh at. The circum
stance is of itself a mere toifle, but it is exactly by such trifles that we
are often enabled to form a true estimate of people's real characters.
Another adventure, also, but of quite a different and most horrible
kind, happened during my stay in Valparaiso.
As I have already remarked, it is the custom here, as well as in
many countries of Em-ope, to sentence criminals to hard labour on
pubUe works. One of the con-ricts endeavoured to bribe his gaoler
to let him escape, and so far succeeded that the latter promised on
his paying an ounce (17 Spanish dollars — £3 8s.) to give him an
opportunity for flight. The prisoners are allowed every morning
and aftemoon to receive the visits of their friends and relations, and
Hkewise to accept provisions from them. The wife of the convict in
question proflted by this regulation to bring her husband the neces
sary money ; and on receiving this, the gaoler arranged matters so that
on the next morning the convict was not fastened to the same chain
with a feUow-criminal, as is usually the case, but could walk alone,
and thus easUy get clear off, more especially as the spot in which
they worked was a very lonely one.
The whole affafr was very cunningly arranged, but either the
gaoler changed his mind, or, perhaps, fi-om the beginning had intended
to act as he did — he flred at the fugitive, and shot him dead.
It is very seldom that any pure descendants of the original inha
bitants are to be seen ; we met with only two. They struck me as
very simtlar to the Puris of BrazU, except that they have not such
smaU ugly-shaped eyes. In this country there are no slaves.
The dress of the ChiHans is quite in the European taste, especially
as regards the women. The only difference with the men is that,
instead of a coat, they fi-equently wear the Poncho, which is com-

cs A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
posed of two pieces of cloth or merino, each about one ell broad and
two ells long. The two pieces are sewn together, with the exception
of an opening in the middle for the head to pass through ; the whole
garment reaches down to the hips, and reserables a square cape. The
Poncho is worifof all colours, green, blue, bright red, &c., and looks
very handsorae, especially when embroidered all round with coloured
silk, which is the case when the wearer is opulent. In the streets,
the women invariably wear large scarfs, which they draw over thefr
heads in church.
My intention, on coming to ChiU, was to stop for a few weeks in
order to have time for an excursion to the capital, Santiago, and after
that to proceed to China, as I had been told m Rio Janeiro that there
was a ship frora Valparaiso to China every month. Unfortunately
this was not the case. I found that vessels bound to that country were
very seldom to be met with, but that there happened to be one at
that moraent, which would sail in five or six days. I was generally
advised not to lose the opportunity, but rather to abandon ray design
of visiting Santiago. I refiected for a little, and agreed to do so,
although with a heavy heart ; and in order to avoid all disappoint
ment, immediately went to the captain, who offered to take rae for
200 Spanish dollars (£40). I agreed, and had five days left, which
I determined to spend in carefulty examining Valparaiso and its
envfrons. I should have had plenty of time to pay Santiago a flying
visit, since it is only 130 miles from Valparaiso, but the expenses
would have been very heavy, as there is no pubUc conveyance, and
consequently I should have been obliged to hire a carriage for my
self. Besides this, I should have derived buf Uttle satisfaction from
the mere superflcial impressions which would have been all I could
have obtained of either town.
I contented myself, therefore, with Valparaiso alone. I toiled
industriously up the surrounding hills and mountains, visited the
huts of the lower classes, witnessed their national dances, &c., deter
mined that here at least I would become acquainted with everything.
On some of the hUls, especially on the Serra Allegri, there are
the most lovely country-houses, with elegant gardens, and a most
beautiful view over the sea. The prospect inland is not so flne, as
chains of tall, naked, ugly mountains rise up behind the hUls, and
completely shut in the scene.
The huts of the poor people are miserably bad, being mostly built
of clay and wood, and threatening to faU down every moraent. I
hardly ventm-ed to enter them, thinking that the interior was of a
piece with the exterior, and was consequently astonished at seeing
not only good beds, chafrs, and tables, but very often elegant little
altars adorned with flowers. The inmates, too, were far from being
badly di-essed, and the linen hung out before many of these hovels
struck me as superior to much that I had seen at the windows of some
of the most elegant houses situated in the principal streets of the
towns of SicUy.
A very good idea of the manners and customs of the people may
be easily obtained by strolling, on Sundays andfete days, near Polanka, t,
and visiting the eating-houses. " .f

THE EATING-HOUSES OP PALANKA. 67
I wiU introduce my reader to one of tjiese places. In one corner,
on the ground, bm-ns a fierce fire, surrounded by innumerable pote
and pans, between which are wooden spits with beef and pork, sim
mering and roasting in the most enticing manner. An ungainly
wooden framework, with a long broad plank on it, occupies the middle
of the room, and is covered with a cloth whose original colour it
would be an irapossibUity to deterraine. This is the table at which
the guests sit. During the dinner itself the old patriarchal customs
are observed, with this difference, that not only do all the guests eat
out of one dish, but that aU the eatables are served up in one, and
one only. Beans and rice, potatoes and roast beef, Paradise apples
and onions, &c., &c.. He quietly side by side, and are devoured in the
deepest sUence. At the end of the repast, a goblet, fiUed with wine,
or sometimes merely water, is passed fi-om hand to hand, and after
this had gone round, the company begin to talk. In the evening
dancing is vigorously pursued to the music of a guitar ; unfortunately,
it was Lent during my visit, when all pubUc amusemente are pro
hibited. The people themselves, however, were not so particular,
and were only too ready, for a few reaux, to go through the Sam-
maquecca and Refolosa — the national dances of the country. I had
soon seen sufficient ; the gestures and raovements of the dancers were
beyond all description unbecoming, and I could but pity the children,
whose natural modesty cannot fail to be nipped in the bud by wit
nessing the performance of these dances.
I was equaUy displeased -with a remarkable custom prevalent here,
in accordance -with which the death of a Uttle child is celebrated by
its parents as a grand festival. They name the deceased chUd an
angelilo, (Httle angel), and adorn it in every possible way. Its eyes
are not closed, but, on the confrary, opened as vride as possible, and
ite cheeks are painted red ; it is then dressed out in the firiest clothes,
cro-wned with flowers, and placed in a Uttle chafr in a kind of niche,
which also is ornamented -with flowers. The relations and neigh
bours then come and wish the parents joy at possessing such an
angel ; and, during the ffrst night, the parents, relations, and fiiends
execute the vrildest dances, and feast in the most joyous fashion before
the angeUto. I heard that in the country it was not unusual for
the parente to carry the Uttle coffin to the churchyard themselves,
followed by the relations vrith the brandy bottle in thefr hands, and
gi-ring vent to thefr joy in the most oufrageous manner.
A merchant told me that one of his friends, who holds a judicial
appointment, had, a short time previous, been caUed to decide a curious
case. A grave-digger was carrying one of these deceased angels to
the churchyai-d, when he stept into a tavern to take a di-ara. The
landlord inqufred what he had got under his poncho, and on leaming
tiiat it was an angeUto, offered him two reaux for it. The grave-
digger consented ; the landlord quickly arranged a niche with flowers
in the drinking-room, and then hastened to inform the whole neigh
hourhood what a freasure he had got. They all came, adnm-ed the
littie angel, and drank and feasted in its honour. But the parente
also soon heard of it, hurried down to the tavern, took away then child,
and had the landlord brought before the magisfrate. On hearing

68 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WORLD.
the case, the latter could scarcely restrain from laughing, but arranged
the matter amicably, as such a crime was not mentioned in the
statute book.
The manner in which patiente are conveyed to the hospital here
is very remarkable. They are placed upon a simple wooden arm-
ehafr, with one band fastened in front of them to prevent thefr faUing
off, and another beneath for them to place thefr feet on — a most hor
rible sight when the sick person is so weak that he can no longer
hold himself in an upright posture.
I was not a Httle astonished on hearing that, in this country,
where there is yet no post, or, indeed, any regular means of conveyance
from one place to another, that a raih-oad was about being consfructed
fi-om here to Santiago. The work has been undertaken by an EngHsh
company, and the necessary measuremente afready begun. As the
localities are very moxmtainous, the raifroad -wiU have to make con
siderable windings, in order to profit by the level tracts, and this wUl
occasion an enormous outlay, quite out of proportion to the present
state of frade or the amount of passenger teaffic. At present, there
are not more than two or three vehicles a-day from one place to
the other, and if by chance ten or fifteeii passengers come from San
tiago to 'Valparaiso, the thing is talked of over the whole town. This
has given rise to the beUef that the construction of a raifroad has
merely been seized on as an excuse, in order to enable those concemed
to search about the country undisturbed for gold and sUver.
Persons discovering mines are highly favoured, and have fiUl
right of property to thefr discovery, being obUged merely to notify
the same to the govemraent. This Ucence is pushed to such an extent,
that if, for instance, a person can advance any plausible grounds for
asserting that he has found a mine in a particular spot, such as under
a church or house, &c., he is at Uberty to have either puUed do-wn,
provided he is rich enough to pay for the damage done.
About fifteen years ago, a donkey driver accidentiy hit upon a
productive silver mine. He was driving several asses over the moun
tain, when one of them ran away. He seized a stone, and was about
to throw it after the animal, but stumbled and feU to the ground,
whUe the stone escaped from his grasp, and roUed away. Rising in
a great passion, he snatched a second from the earth, and had dra-wn
his arm to throw the stone, when he was sfr-uok by its uncommon
weight. He looked at it more closely, and percei-ved that it was
sfreaked with rich veins of pure silver. He preserved the stone as a
ti-easure, marked the spot, drove his asses home, and then communi
cated his important discovery to one of his friends, who was a miner.
Both of them then returned to the place, which the miner examined,
and pronounced the soU fuU of precious ore. Nothing was now
wanting save capital to carry on thefr operations. This they pro
cured by taking the miner's employer into partnership, and in a few
years all three were rich men.
The six days had now elapsed, and the captain sent me a message
to be on board with my bag and baggage the next day, as he intended
putting out to sea in the evening; but on the morning of his intended
departure, my evU genius conducted a French man-of-war into the

FURTHER DELAY IN VALPARAISO. 69
harbour. Little imagining that this was destined to overturn all my
plans, I proceeded very toanquiUy to the landing-place, where I met
the captain hastening to meet me, with a long story about his half-
cargo, and the necessity he was under of completing his freight with
pro-risions for the use of the French garrison at Tahiti, and so forth :
in a word, the end of the matter was, that I was informed we should
have to stop another flve days.
In the first bm-st of my disappointment, I paid a -risit to the Sar
dinian Consul, Herr Bayerbach, and told him of the position iu which
I was placed. He consoled me, in a most kind and gentlemanly
manner, as weU as he could ; and on learning that I had afready taken
up my quarters on board, insisted on my occupying a chamber in his
counfry-house in the Serra Allegri. Besides this, he introduced me
to several famiUes, where I passed many very pleasant hours, and had
the opportunity of inspecting some exceUent collections of muscle-
shells and insecte.
Our departm-e was again deferred fi-om day to day; so that,
although, in this manner, I spent fifteen days in ChiU, I saw nothing
more of it than Valparaiso and its immediate neighbourhood.
As A'^alparaiso is situated to the south of the Equator, and, as is
well kno'wn, the seasons of the southern hemisphere are exactly the
contrary of those of the northern, it was now autumn. I saw (34°
South latitude) almost the same kinds of fruits and vegetables as those
we have in Germany, especiaUy grapes and melons. The apples and
pears were not so good nor so abundant as with us.
In conclusion, I wiU here give a Ust of the prices which traveUers
have to pay for certain things : —
A room that is at aU decent in a private house costs four or flve
reaux (2s.) a day; the table d'hote a piaster (4s.) ; but washing is more
expensive than anything else, on account of the great scarcity of
water, for every article, large or sraall, costs a real (fid.). A pass
port, too, is excessively dear, being charged eight Spanish doUars
(£1 12s.).

f2

CHAPTER Vn.
THE VOYAGE FEOM YALPAEAISO TO CANTON VIA TAHITI.
Departure from Valparaiso — Tahiti — Manners anu Customs op the People —
Fete anu Ball in Honour op Louis Philippe — Excursions — A Tahitian Dinner
— The Lake Vaiuiria— The Defile op -Fantaua and the Diadeu — ^Departure-
Arrival IN China.
On the 17th of March, Captain Van Wyk Jnrianse sent me word
that his ship was ready for sea, and that he should set sail the next
morning. The news was very unwelcome to rae, as, for the last two
days, I had been suffering from EngUsh cholera, which on board ship,
where the patient cannot procure meat broth or any other Ught
nourishment, and where he is always more exposed to the sudden
changes of the weather than he is on shore, is very apt to be attended
with grave resulte. I did not, however, wish to miss the opportunity
of -risiting China, knowing how rarely it occurred, uor was I desfrous
of losing the two hundred doUars (£40) afready paid for my passage,
and I therefore went on board, trusting in my good luck, which had
never forsaken me on my travels.
During the ffrst few days, I endeavoured to master my illness by
observing a striet diet, and abstaining from almost everything, but to
no purpose. I stUl continued to suffer, until I luckUy thought of using
salt-water baths. I took thera in a large tub, in which I reraained a
quarter of an honr. After the second bath, I felt much better, and
after the sixth, I was completely recovered. I merely mention this
malady, to which I was very subject in warm climates, that I may
have the opportunity of remarking, that sea-baths or cooUng drinks,
such as buttei-milk, som- milk, sherbet, orangeade, &e., are very efiica
cious remedies.
The ship in which I made my present voyage, was the Dutch
barque Lootpuit, a flne, sfrong vessel, quite remarkable for its clean
Uness. The table was pretty good, too, with the exception of a few
Duteh dishes, and a superfluity of onions. To these, which played a
prominent part in everything that was served up, I really could not
accustom myself, and felt greatiy deUghted that a large quantity of
this noble production of the vegetable kingdom became spoUt during
the voyage.
The captain was a polite and kind man, and the mates and sailors
were also civil and obliging. In fact, as a general rule, in every ship
that I embarked in, I was far from flnding seamen so rough and
uncivU as fraveUers often represent them to be. Thefr manners are
certainly not the most polished in the world, neither are they extra
ordinarily atenttive or deUcate, but thefr hearts and dispositions are
mostly good.

TAHITI. 71
After three days' sailing, we saw, on the 21st March, the island
of St. Felix, and on the morning- following, St. Ambrosio. They both
consist of naked, inhospitable masses of rock, and serve at most as
resting places for a few gulls.
AVe were now withm the tropics, but found the heat greatly
moderated by the fr-ade wind, and only unbearable in the cabin.
For nearly a month did we now sail on, without the sUghtest
interruption, free fi-om storms, with the same monotonous prospect
of sky and water before us, until, on the 19th of April, we reached
the Archipelago of the Society Islands. This Archipelago, sfretching-
from 130° to 140° longitude, is very dangerous, as most of the islands
composing it scarcely rise above the surface of the water ; in fact, to
make out David Clark's Island, which was only twelve miles distant,
the captain was obUged to mount to the shrouds.
During the night of the 21st to the 22nd of April we were over
taken by a sudden and violent storm, accompanied by heavy thunder ;
this storm our captain termed a thunder-gust. AVhile it lasted flashes
of lightning frequently played around the mast-top, occasioned by
electricity. They generally flutter for two or three minutes about the
most elevated point of any object, and then disappear.
T^he night of the 22nd to the 23rd of AprU was a very dangerous
one ; even the captain said so. We had to pass several of the low
islands in dark rainy weather, which completely concealed the moon
from us. About midnight our position was rendered worse by the
springing up of a sfrong -wind, which, together with incessant flashes of
Hghtning, caused us to expect another squall ; luckily, however, morn
ing broke, and we escaped both the storm and the islands.
In the course of the day we passed the Bice Islands, and two days
later, on the 25th of April, we beheld one of the Society Islands,
Maithia. On the foUo-wing moming, bemg the thfrty-ninth of om- voyage,
we came in sight of Tahiti, and the island opposite to it, Emao, also
called Moreo. The entrance into Papeiti, the port of 'Tahiti, is ex
ceedingly dangerous ; it is surrounded by reefs of coral as by a fortress,
whUe "wUd and. foaming breakers, rolling on every side, leave but a
small place open through which a vessel can steer.
A pilot came out to meet us, and, although the wind was so
unfavourable that the saUs had to be trimmed every instant, steered us
safely into port. Afterwards, when we had landed, we were congra
tulated heartily on our good fortune ; every one had watched our
course -with the greatest anxiety, and, at the last turn the ship took,
expected to see her strike upon a coral reef. This misfortune had
happened to a French man-of-war, that at the period of our arrival
had been lying at anchor for some months, engaged in repairing the
damage done.
Before -\ve could come to an anchor we were surrounded by half-
a-dozen pfrogues, or boats, manned by Indians, who cUmbed up from
all sides upon the deck to offer us fruit and shell-fish, but not as formerly
for red rags or glass beads — such golden times for travellers are over.
They demanded money, and were as grasping and cunning in their
dealings as the most civilized Eurcpeans. I offered one of them a

78 A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
smaU bronze ring ; he took it, smelt it, shook his head, and gave me
to understand that it was not gold. He remarked another ring on
my finger, and seizing hold of my hand, smelt this second ring as weU,
then twisted his face into a friendly smUe, and made signs for me to
give him the ornament in question. I afterwards had frequent oppor
tunities of remarking that the natives of these islands have the power
of distingiushing between pure and counterfeit gold by the smell.
Someyears ago the island of Tahiti was under the protection of the
EngUsh, but at present it is under that of the French. It had long
been a subject of dispute between the two nations, until a friendly
understanding was at last come to in November, 1846. Queen
Pomare, who had fled to another island, had retumed to Papeiti
five weeks before my arrival. She resides in a four-roomed house,
and dines daUy, -with her fainily, atthe governor's table. The French
government is having a handsome house buUt for her use, and aUows
her a pension of 25,000 francs per annum (£1,041 13s. id.). No
stranger is allowed to visit her without the governor's permission,
hut this is easily obtained.
Papeiti was fuU of French froops, and several men-of-war were
lying at anchor.
The place contains three or four thousand inhabitante, and con
siste of a row of small wooden houses, skfrting the harbour, and
separated by small gardens. In the immediate background is a fine
wood, vrith a number of huts scattered about in different parte of it.
The principal buUdings are — the govemor's house, the French
magazines, the miUtary bakehouse, the barracks, and the queen's
house, which however is not quite completed. Besides these, a num
ber of smaU wooden houses were in the course of erection, the want
of them being greatly felt ; at the time of my visit even officers of
high rank were obliged to be contented vrith the most vyretched huts.
I went from hut to hut in the hopes of being able to obtain some
small room or other ; but in vain, all were afready occupied. I was
at last obHged to be satisfied with a sraaU piece of ground, which I
found at a carpenter's, whose roora was afready inhabited by four
different individuals. I was sho-wn a place behind the door, exactly
six feet long and four broad. There was no flooring but the eartti
iteelf; the walls were composed of wicker work; a bed was quite out
of the question, and yet for this accommodation I was obliged to pay
one florin and thfrty kreutzers a-week (about 7s.)
The residence or hut of an Indian consists simply of a roof of palm-
frees, supported on a number of poles, 'with sometimes the addition
of waUs formed of -wicker-work. Each hut contains only one room,
from twenty to fifty feet long, and from ten to thfrty feet broad, and
is frequently occupied by several famiUes at the same time. The
furmture is composed of miely woven sfraw mate, afew coverUda, and
two or three wooden cheste and stools; the last, however, are
reckoned articles of luxury. Cooking utensils are not wanted, as the
cookery of the Indians does not include soups or sauces, thefr pro-
'risions being simply roasted between hot stones, AU they requice
is a knife, and a cocoa. sheU for water.
Before thefr hute, or on the shore, Ue thefr pfroquea, formed <£ tbe

MANNEES AND CUSTOMS OF THE TAHITIANS. ^s
trunks of trees hoUowed out, and so narrow, smaU, and shaUow, that
they would constantiy be overturning, if there were not on one side
five or six sticks, each about a foot long, fastened by a cross-bar to
preserve the equiUbrium. In spite of this, however, one of these
boate is very easUy upset, unless a person steps in very cautiously.
AA'hen, on one occasion, I proceeded in a pfroque to the ship, the
good-hearted captain was horror-scruck, and, in his concem for my
safety, even reprimanded me severely, and besought me not to repeat
the experiment a second time.
The costume of the Indians has been, since the first settlement of
the missionaries (about flfty years ago), tolerably becoming, especiaUy
in the neighbourhood of Papeiti. Both men and women wear round
thefr loins a kind of apron, made of coloured stuff, and caUed a
pareo; the woraen let it fall as low down as thefr ancles; the men
not farther than the calf of the leg. The latter have a short coloured
shirt underneath it, and again beneath that, large flowing trousers.
The women wear a long fuU blouse. Both sexes wear flowers in
thefr eai-s, which have such large holes bored in them that the stalk
can very easUy be dravra through. The women, both old and young,
adorn tiiemselves -with garlands of leaves and fiowers, which they
make in the most artistic and elegant manner. I have often seen
men, too, weaving the same kind of ornament.
On grand occasions, they cast over thefr ordinary dress an upper
garment, caUed a tiputa, the cloth of which they manufecture them
selves fiom the bark of the bread and cocoa trees. The bark, whUe
stiU tender, is beaten between two stones, imtU it is as thin as paper ;
it is then coloured yeUow and brown.
One Sunday I went into the meeting-house to see the people
assembled there.* Before entering they aU laid aside thefr fiowers,
-with which they again ornamented themselves at thefr departure.
Some of the women had black satin blouses on, and European bonnets
of an exceedingly ancient date. It would not be easy to find a more
ugly sight than that of thefr plump, hea-sy heads and faces in these
old-fashioned bonnete.
During the singing of the psalms there was some degree of atten
tion, and many of the congregation joined in very becomingly ; but
while the clergyman was performing the service, I could not remark
-the sUghtest degree of devotion in any of them ; the chUdren played,
joked, and ate, while the adulte gossiped or slept; and although I was
assured that many could read and even write, I saw only two old men
who made any use of thefr Bibles.
The men are a remarkably sfrong and vigorous race, six feet being
by no means an uncommon height amongst them. The women, Uke
vrise, are very taU, but too muscular — they might even be termed
'unwieldy. The features of the men are handsomer than those of the
women. They have beautiful teetlj. and fine dark eyes, but gene
rally a large mouth, thick Hps, and an ugly nose, the cartilage being
slightly crushed when the chUd is bom, so that the nose becomes flat
and broad'. This fashion appears to be most popular ¦with the females,
for thefr noses are the ugUest. Thefr hafr is jet black aud thick, but
• All tbe Indians are Christians (Protestants), but I fearonly in name.

74 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
coarse ; the women and gfrls generally wear it plaited in two knote.
The colour of their skin is a copper-brown. All the natives are tat
tooed, generally from the hips half do-wn the legs, and frequently
this mode of ornamenting themselves is extended to the hands, feet,
or other parts of the body. The designs resemble arabesques ; they
are regular and aa-tistic in thefr composition, and executed with
much taste.
. That the population of this place should be so vigorous and well-
formed is the raore surprising, if we reflect on thefr depraved and
iramoral kind of life. Little gfrls of seven or eight years old have
thefr lovers of twelve or fourteen, and thefr parente are quite proud
of the fact. The more lovers a gfrl has the more she is respected.
As long as she is not married she leads a most dissolute life, and it is
said that not all the married women make the most faitliful wives
possible. I had frequent opportunities of seeing the national dances, which
are the most unbecoming I ever beheld, although every painter woidd
envy rae my good fortune. Let the reader picture to himself a grove
of splendid palms, and other gigantic trees of the ton-id zone, with
a number of open huts, and a crowd of good-humoured islanders
assembled beneath, to greet, in their fashion, the lovely evening,
which is fast approaching. Before one of the huts a efrcle is formed,
and in the centre sit two herculean and half-naked natives, beating
time raost vigorously on sraaH drums. Five simUar colossi are seated
before them, moving the upper parts of thefr bodies in the raost
horrible and 'riolent manner, and more especiaUy the arms, hands,
and flngers; the latter they have the power of mo'ving in every
separate joint. I imagine, that by these gestures they desfred to re
present how they pm-sue thefr enemy, ridicule his cowardice, rejoice
at thefr victory, and so forth. During all this time they howl contin-
nally in a most discordant manner, and make the most hideous faces.
At the comraenceraent, the men appear alone upon the scene of action,
but after a short time two female forms dart forward fi-om among the
spectators, and dance and rave Uke two maniacs ; the more unbe
coming, bold, and indecent thefr gestures, the greater the applause.
The whole affafr docs not, at most, last longer than two minutes, and
the pause before another dance is commenced not much longer. An
evening's arauseraent of this description often lasts for hom-s. The
younger raembers of society very seldom take any part in the
dances. It is a great question whether the immoraUty of these islanders
has been lessened by French civilization. From my own observations,
as well as from what I was told by persons well informed on the subject,
I should say that this has not yet been the case, and that, for the
present, there is but Uttle hope of its being so ; whUe, on the other
side, the natives have acqufred a number of useless wante, in con
sequence of which, the greed for gold has been fearfully awakened in
thefr breasts. As they are naturaUy very lazy, and above all things
disinclined to work, they have made the female portion of the com
munity the means of gaining money. Parents, brothers, and even
husbands, offer to thefr foreign masters those belonging to them,

MANNEES AND CUSTOMS OF THE TAIIITI.iNS. 75
wMIe the women themselves offer no opposition, as in this manner
they can obtain the means for their own display, and money for their
relations without trouble. Every officer's house is the rendezvous of
several native beauties, who go out and in at every hour of the day.
Even abroad they ai-e not particular ; they will accompany any man
without the least hesitation, and no gentleman ever refuses a conduc-
fress of this description.
As a female of an advanced age, I may bo allowed to raaJ^e a few
observations upon such a state of things, and I frankly own, that,
although I have ti-avelled much and seen a great deal, I never wit
nessed such shameful scenes of pubUe depra-rity.
As a proof of what I assert, I will mention a Httle affafr which
happened one day befbre my hut.
Four fat graces were squatted on the ground smoking tobacccr,
when an officer, who happened to be passing, caught a glimpse of
the charming picture, rushed up at double quick pace and caught
hold of one of the beauties by the shoulder. He began by spealcmg
softiy to her, but as his anger increased, he changed his tone to one
of loud abuse. But neither enfreaties nor threats produced the
sUghtest effect upon the deUcate creature to whom they were ad
dressed ; she remained cooUy in the same position, continuing to smoke
¦with the greatest indifference, and -without deigning even to cast upon
her excited swain a look, far less answer hun a word. He became
enraged to such a pitch, that he so far forgot hiraself as to loosen the
golden ear-rings from her ears, and threatened to take away all the
finery he had given her. Even this was not sufficient to rouse the
gfrl from her stoUd calmness, and the valiant ofiicer was, at last,
obUged to refreat fi-ora the field of battle.
From his conversation, which was half in French and half in the
native dialect, I learned that iu three months the gfrl had cost him
about four hundred francs in dress and jewellery. Her wishes were
satisfied, and she quietly refiised to have anything more to say to
him. I very often heard the feeUng, attachment, and kindness of this
people spoken of in terms of high praise, with which, however, I
cannot unreservedly agree. Their kmdness I will not precisely dis
pute ; they readily in-rite a stranger to share thefr hospitaUty, and
even kill a pig in his honour, give him a part of thefr couch, &c. ;
but all this costs them no trouble, and if they are offered money in
retum, they take it eagerly enough, without so much as thanking the
donor. As for feeling and attachment, I should alraost be incUned to
deny that they possessed them in the sUghtest degree ; I saw only
sensuality, and none of the nobler sentiments. I shall return to this
subject when describing my journey through the island.
On the 1st of May I -witnessed a highly interesting scene. It was
the fete of Louis PhiUppe, the King of the French ; and the governor.
Monsieur Bruat, exerted himself to the utmost to amuse the popula
tion of Tahiti. In the forenoon, there was a tournament on the
water, in which the French saUors were the performers. Several
boats with lusty oarsmen put out to sea. , In the bows of each boat
was a kind of ladder or steps, on which stood one of the combatants

7S A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
vrith a pole. The boate were then puUed close to one another, and
each combatant endeavoured to push his antagonist into the water.
Besides this, there was a Mat de Cocagne, with eoloured shirts,
ribbons, and other trifles fluttering at the top, for whoever chose to
climb up and get them. At 12 o'clock the chiefs and principal per
sonages were entertained at dinner. On the grass plot before the
governor's house were heaped up various sorte of provisions, such as
Bait meat, baoon, bread, baked pork, fiimte, &c. ; hut instead of the
guests taking thefr places aU around, as we had supposed they would
have done, the chiefs di'rided everything into different portions, and
each carried his share home. In the evening there, were fireworks,
and a ball.
No part of the entertainment amused me more than the baU,
where I -witnessed the most startling contrasts of art and nature.
Elegant Frenchwomen side by side -with thefr brown, awkward
sisters, and the staff-officers in full uniform, in juxta-position with
the half-naked islanders. Many of the natives wore, on this occasion,
broad white frousers, with a smrt over them ; but there were others
who had no other garmente than the ordinary short shirt and the
pareo. One of the chiefs who appeared in tms costurae, and was
afflicted with Elephantiasis,* offered a raost repulsive spectacle.
This evening I saw Queen Poraare for the flrst time. She is a
woman of 36 years of age, taU and stout, but tolerably weU preserved
— as a general rule, I found that the women here fade much less
quickly than in other warm climates — ^her face is far from ugly, and
there is a most good-natured expression round her mouth, and the
lower portion of her face. She was enveloped in a sky-blue satin
gown, or rather, sort of blouse, ornaraented aU roimd -with two rows
of rich black blond. She wore large jessamine blossoms, in her ears,
and a -wreath of flowers in her hafr, while in her hand she carried a
fine pocket handkerchief beautifully embroidered, and ornamented
¦with broad lace. In honour of the evening, she had forced her feet
into shoes and stockings, though on other occasions she went barefoot.
The entire costume was a present from the King of the French.
The queen's husband, who is younger than herelf, is the hand
somest man in Tahiti. The French jokingly call him the Prince Alherf
of Taluti, not only on account of his good looks, but hecause, Uke
Prince Albert in England, he is not named " the king," but simply
" the queen's consort." He had on the uniform of a French general,
which became him very well ; the more so, that he was not in the
least embarrassed in it. The only drawback were his feet, which
were very ugly and awkward.
Besides theso two high personages, there was in the company
another crowned head, namely. King Otoume, the owner of one of
the neighbouring islands. He presented a most comical appearance,
having put on, over a. pafr of fuU but short white frousers, a bright
yeUow caUco coat, that most certainly had not been made by a
• Elephantiasis, in this oountry, generally shows itself in the feet, and extends up as
far as the calves, of the legs. These portions of the body, -when so affeeted, are greatly
swollen, and covered with scurf and blotches, so that theyreallv might be taken for* those
of an elephant.

FETE AND BALL IN HONOUR OF LOUIS PHILIPPE. 77
Parisian artiste, for it was a perfect model of what a coat ought not
to be. This monarch was bai-efoot.
The queen's ladies of honour, four in number, as well as most of
the wives and daughters of the chiefs, were dressed in white muslin.
They had also flowers in thefr ears, and garlands in thefr hafr. Their
behaviour and deportment were surprising, and three of the young
ladies actuaUy danced French quadriUes with the officers, without
making a fault in the flgures. I was only anxious for thefr feet, as
no one, save the royal couple, wore either shoes or stockings. Some
of the old women had arrayed themselves in European bonnets, -whUe
the young ones brought thefr chUdren, even the youngest, with them,
and, to quiet the latter, suckled them without ceremony before the
company. Before supper was annormced, the queen disappeared in an adjoin
ing room to smoke a cigar or two, while her husband passed the time
in playing bUUards.
At table I was seated between Prince Albert of Tahiti and the
canary-coloured King Otoume. They were both sufficiently advanced
in the rules of good breeding to show me the usual civiUties ; that is,
to flU my glass vrith water or wine, to hand me the various dishes,
and so on ; but it was evident that they were at great frouble to catch
tiie tone of European society. Some of the gueste, however, forgot
thefr parts now and then : the queen, for instance, asked, during the
dessert, for a second plate, which she filled with sweetraeate, and
ordered to be put on one side for her to take home with her. Others
had to be prevented from indulging too much in the generous cham
pagne ; but, on the whole, the entertainment passed off in a becoming
and good-humoured manner.
I subsequently dined -with the royal famUy several tiraes at the
govemor's. The queen then appeared in the national costume, with
the coloured pareo and chemise, as did also her husband. Both were
barefoot. The hefr apparent, a boy of nine years old, is affianced to
the daughter of a neighbouring king. The bride, who is a few years
older tb^n the prince, is being educated at the court of Qneen Pomar^,
and instmcted in the Christian reHgion, andthe English and Tahitian
languages. The arrangements of the queen's residence are exceedingly simple.
For the present, until the stone house which is being built for her by
the French govemment is completed, she lives in a wooden one con
taining four rooras, and partly furnished with European furniture.
As peace was now declared in Tahiti, there was no obstacle to my
making a journey through the whole island. I had obtained a fort
night's leave of absence frora the captain, and was desfrous of devoting
this time to a trip. I imagined that I should have been able to join
one or other of the officers, who are often obliged to joumey through
the island on affafrs connected with the govemment. To my great
surprise I found, however, that they had aU some exfraordinary
reason why it was impossible for me to accompany them at that par
ticular time. I was at a loss to account for this incivility, until one
of the officers themselves told me the answer to the riddle, which was
this : every gentleman always travelled with his mistress.

78 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
Monsieur  *, who let me into the secret, offered to take me
with hira to Papara, where he resided ; but even he did not fravel
alone, as, besides his mistress, Tati, the principal chief of the island,
and his family, accompanied him. This chief had come to Papeiti to
be present at the fete of the 1st of May.
On the 4th of March we put off to sea in a boat, for the purpose of
coasting round toPapara,forty-two mUes distant. Ifound the chief Tati
to be a lively old man nearly ninety years of age, who remembered
perfectly the second landing of the celebrated circumnavigator of the
globe. Captain Cook. His father was, at that period, lie prmcipal
chief, and had concluded a friendly alUance -with Cook, and, according
to the custom then prevalent at Tahiti, had changed names with
him. Tati enjoys from the French government a yearly pension of
6,000 francs (£240), which, after his death, wUl fall to his eldest son.
He had with him his young wife and five of his sons ; the former
was twenty-three years old, and the ages of the latter varied from
twelve to eighteen. The children were aU the offspring of other
marriages, this being his fifth wife.
As we had not left Papeiti. till nearly noon, and as the sun sete
soon after six o'clock, and the passage between the numberless rocks
is highly dangerous, we landed at Paya (22 raUes), where a sixth son
of Tati's ruled as cMef.
The island is intersected in all dfrections by noble mountains, the
loftiest of which, the Oroena, is 6,200 feet high. In the middle ofthe
island the mountains separate, and a most remarkable mass of rock
raises itself from the midst of them. It has the forra of a diadem
¦with a number of pointe, and it is to this cfrcumstance that it owes
its name. Around the mountain range winds a forest gfrdle, from
four to six hundred paces broad ; it is inhabited, and contains tho
most delicious fruit. Nowhere did I ever eat such bread- frmt, man
goes, oranges, and guavas, as I did here. As for cocoa-nuts, the
natives are so extravagant with them, that they generally raerely
drink the water they contain, and then throw away the sheU and the
fruit. In the mountains and ravines there are a great quantity of
plantains, a kind of banana, which are not coramonly eaten, however,
without being roasted. The huts of the natives lie scattered here and
there along the shore ; it is very seldora that a dozen of these huts are
seen together.
The bread-fruit is somewhat similar in shape to a water-melon, and
weighs fi-om foui- to six pounds. The outside is green, and rather
rough and thin. The natives scrape it with muscle-shells, and then
split the fruit up long ways into two portions, which they roast be
tween two heated stones. The taste is deUcious ; it is finer than that
of potatoes, and so like bread that tho latter may be dispensed with
without any inconvenience. The South Sea Islands are the real home
of the fruit. It is true that it grows in other parts of the tropics,
but it is very different from that produced here. In Brazil, for
instance, where the people call it monkeys' bread, it weighs frora five
* I purposely abstain from mentioning the names of any of the gentlemen et Tahiti, a
piece of reserve -which I think ejititlesmo to their thanks.

EXCURSIONS IN TAHITI. 79
to tliU-ty pounds, and is full inside of kernels, which are taken out and
eaten when the fruit is roasted. These kernels taste Hke chestnuts.
The mango is a fiTut resemblmg an apple, and of the size of a
man's fist ; both the rind and the fruit itself are yellow. It tastes a
Uttle Uke tiirpentine, but loses this taste more and more the riper
it gets. This fruit is of the best description ; it is full and juicy,
and has a long, broad kernel in the middle. The bread and mango
ti-ees grow to a great height and circumference. The leaves of the
former are about three feet long, a foot and a-half broad, and deeply
serrated ; whUe those of the latter are not much larger than the leaves
of our own apple-frees.
Before reaching Paya, we passed several interesting places, among
which raay be mentioned Foar, a small French fort, situated upon a
hiU. Near Taipaii it is necessary to pass between two rows of dan
gerous breakers, caUed the " Devil's Entrance." The foaraing waves
rose in such volume and to so great a height, that they might almost
be mistaken for walls. In the plain near Punavia is a large fort sup
ported by several towers, buUt upon the neighbouring hUIs. At this
point the scenery is beautiful. The mountain range breaks here, so
that the eye can foUow for a long distance the -windings of a pic
turesque valley, -with the black and lofty raoimtain Olofena in the
background. Delighted as I was, however, with the beauty of the objects around
me, I was no less pleased with those beneath. Our boat gUded along
over countless shallows, where the water was as clear as crystal, so
that the smallest pebble at the bottom was distinctly -risible. I could
observe groups and clusters of coloured coral and madrepore-stone,
whose magniflcence chaUenges aU description. It might bo said that
there was a quantity of fairy flower and kitchen gardens in the sea,
fuU of gigantic flowers, blossoms, and leaves, varied by fungi and
pulse of every description, Uke open arabesque work, the whole inter
spersed with pretty groups of rocks of every hue. The most lovely
sheU-flsh were cmiging to these rocks, or lying scattered on the
ground, whUe endless shoals of variegated fish darted in and out
between thera, like so many butterflies and humming-bfrds. These
deUcate creatures were scarcely four inches long, and surpassed in
richness of colour anything I had ever seen. Many of them were of
the purest sky-blue, others a light yeUow, whUe some, again, that
were almost transparent, were brown, green, &c.
On our arrival at Paya, about 6 in the evening, the young Tati
had a pig, weighing eighteen or twenty pounds, killed and cooked,
after the fashion of Tahiti, in honour of his father. A large fire was
kindled in a shallow pit, in which were a number of stones. A quan
tity of bread-fruit (raajore), that had been first peeled and spUt into
two portions with a very sharp wooden axe, was then brought. When
the fire had gone out, and the stones heated to the requisite degree,
the' pig and the fruit were laid upon them, a few other heated stones
placed on the top, and the whole covered up -with green branches, dry
leaves, and earth.
DurUig the time that the -rictuals were cooking, the table was
laid. A sfraw mat was placed upon the ground, and covered -with

80 A -WOMAN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
large leaves. For each guest there was a cocoa-nut shell, half-fiUed
with miti, a sourish beverage extracted fi-om the cocoa-pahn.
In an hour and a half the victuals were dug np. The pig was
neither very artisticaUy cooked nor very enticing, but cut up as quick
as Hghtning, being divided by the hand and knife into as many por
tions as there were gueste, and each person had his share, together
with half a bread-ti-uit, handed td Hra upon a large leaf. There
was no one at our rustic table besides the officer, his mistress, the old
Tati, his wife, and rayself, as it is confrary to the custom of the counti-y
fbr the host to eat with his gueste, or the children with their parents.
With the exception of this cereraony, I did not observe any other
proof of love or affection between the father and son. Tho old man,
for instance, although ninety years of age, and suffering besides
fi-ora a violent cough, was obUged to pass the night under nothing but
a light roof, open to the weather, whUe his son slept in his weU-
closed huts.
On the 5th of May, we left Teipari -with empty stomachs, as old
Tati was desfrous of entertaining us at one of his estates about two
hours' journey distant.
On our arrival, and as soon as the stones were heated for our meal,
several of the natives out of the neighbouring huts hastened to profit
by the opportunity to cook thefr provisions as weU, bringing 'with
them fish, pieces of pork, bread-fruit, plantains, and so on. The
fish and raeat were enveloped in large leaves. For om- use, besides
bread-fruit and fish, there was a turtle weighing perhaps raore than
twenty poimds. The repast was held in a hut, to which the whole
neighbourhood also came, and forming themselves into groups a little
on one side of us principal gueste, eat the provisions they had brought
with them. Each person had a cocoa-nut shell fuU of Miti before
Mm ; into this he first threw every morsel and took it out again with
his hand, and then what, remained of the miti was drunk at the end
of the meal. We had each of us a fresh cocoa-nut -with a hole bored
in it, containing at least a pint of clear, sweet- tasting water. This is
erroneously terraed by us "Milk," but it only becomes thick and
milky when the cocoa-nut is very stele, in which condition it is never
eaten in these islands.
Tati, with his family, remained here, while we proceeded to Papara,
an hour's walk. The road was deUghtfiil, leading mostly through
thick groves of fruit-frees ; but it would not smt a person with a ten
dency to hydrophobia, for we were obHged to wade through more
than half a dozen streams and brooks.
At Papara, Monsieur  possessed some landed property, with
a little wooden four-roOmed house, in which he was kind enough to
give me a lodging.
We here heard of the death of one of Tati's sons, of which he num
bered twenty'one. He had been dead three days, and his fiiends were
awaiting Tati to pay the last honours to the deceased. I had intended
to make an excursion to the Lake Vaihfria, but defen-ed doing so, in
order to be present at the burial. On the following morning, 6th May,
I paid a visit to the hut of the deceased. Monsieur  gave me
a new handkerchief to take with me as a present— a reUo of the old

EXCURSIONS IN TAHITI, 81
superstition whieh the people of this island have introduced into
Christianity. These presents are supposed to calm the soul of the
deceased. The corpse was lying in a narrow coffln, upon a low bier,
both of which were covered with a white pall. Before the bier were
hung two straw mats, on which were spread the deceased's clothes,
drinking vessels, knives, and so forth, while on the other, lay the
presents, malting quite a heap, of shfrte, pareos, pieces of cloth, &c.,
aU so new and good that they might have served to furnish a small
shop. Old Tati soon entered the hut, but quickly returned into the open
afr, stopping only a few instants, as the corpse was afready most
offensive. He sat do-wn under a ti-ee, and began taUdng very quietly
and unconcernedly .-with the neighbours, as if nothing had happened.
The female relatives and neighbours remained in the hut ; they, too,
chatted and gossipped very contentedly, and moreover ate and smoked.
I was obUged to have the wife, chUdren, and relations of the deceased
pointed out to me, for I was unable to recognise them by thefr de
meanour. In a Httie time, the stepmother and wife rose, and throwing
themselves on the coffin, howled for half an hour ; but it was easy to
see that their grief did not come fi-om the heart. Their moaning was
always pitched in the same monotonous key. Both then returned
-with smiling faces and dry eyes to thefr seats, and appeared to resume
the conversation at the point at which they had broken it off. The
deceased's canoe was burnt upon the shore.
I had seen enough, and retumed to my quarters to make some
preparations for my trip to the lake the next day. The distance is
reckoned to be eighteen mUes, so that the joumey there and back
may be performed in two days -with ease, and yet a guide had the
conscience to ask ten doUars (£2) for his ser-rices. AVith the assist
ance of old Tati, however, I procured one for three dollars (12s.).
Pedestrian trips are very fatiguing in Tahiti, since it is so richly
watered that the excursionist is constantly obUged to wade through
plains of sand and rivers. I was very suitably clothed for the purpose,
haying got sfrong men's shoes, vrithout any stockings, frousers, and a
blouse, which I had fastened up as high as ray hips. Thus equipped
I began, on the 7th of May, ray short journey, in company with my
guide. In the first thfrd of my road, which lay along the coast, I
counted about thfrty-two. brooks which we were obliged to walk
through. We then struck off, through ravines, into the interior of
the island, first caUing, however, at a hut to obtain some refreshment.
The inmates were very friendly, and gave us some bread-fruit and
fish, but very -wUlingly accepted a small present in exchange.
In the interior, the fiine fruit-frees disappear, and thefr place is
suppUed by plantains, tarros, and a kind of bush, grovring to the
height of twelve feet, and called Oputu (Marante) ; the last, in fact,
grew so luxuriantly, that we frequently experienced the greatest diffi-
ctdty in making our way through. "016 tarro, which is planted, is
from two to three feet high, and has fine lar^e leaves and tubercles,
simUar to the potato, but which do not taste very good when roasted.
The plantain, or banana, is a pretty Httle free, from fifteen to twenty
feet high, vrith leaves Hke those --f the palm, and a stem which is often

83 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
eight inches in diameter, but is not of wood, but cane, and very easily
broken. It belongs properly to the herbiferous species, and grows
¦with uncommon rapidity. It reaches ite full growth the first year
in the second it bears fruit, and then dies. It is produced from shoots,
which generally spring up near the parent free.
Through one mountain stream, which chafed along the ravine over
a stony bed, and in some places was exceedingly rapid, and, in conse
quence of the rain that had lately faUen, was frequently more than
three feet deep, we had to wade sixty-two tiraes. My guide caught
hold of me by the hand whenever we passed a dangerous spot, and
dragged me, often half S'wimming, after hira. The water constantly
reached above my hips, and aU idea of getting dry again was totaUy
out of the question. The path also became at every step more
fatiguing and dangerous. I had to clamber ove'r rocks and stones
covered to such an extent with the foHage of the oputu that I never
knew 'with any degree of certainty where I was placing my foot. I
received several severe wounds on my hands and feet, and frequently
fell do'wn on the ground, when I trusted for support to the treacherous
stem of a banana, which would break beneath my grasp. It was
really a breakneck sort of excm-sion, which is very rarely made even
by the officers, and certainly never by ladies.
In two places the ravine becarae so narrow, that the bed of the
stream occupied its whole extent. It was here that the islanders,
during the war 'with the French, buUt stone walls five feet in height
to protect them against the enemy, in case they should have attacked
them from this side.
In eight hours' time we had completed the eighteen miles, and
attained an elevation of 1,800 feet. The lake itself was not visible
until we stood upon ite shores, as it Hes in a sUght hoUow ; it is about
800 feet across. The surrounding scenery is the most remarkable.
The lake is so closely hemraed in by a ring of lofty and precipitous
green mountains, that there is no room even for a footing between the
water and the rocks, and its bed inight be taken for an extinguished
volcano fiUed -with water — a supposition which gains additional
force from the masses of basalt which occupy the foreground. It is
plentifully supplied with fish, one kind of which is said to be pecuUar
to the locaUty ; it is supposed that the lake has a subterranean outlet,
which as yet remains undiscovered.
To cross the lake, it is either necessary to s-wim over or frust
oneself to a dangerous kind of boat, which is prepared by the natives
in a few rainutes. Being desfrous of making the atterapt, I intiraated
this by signs to ray guide. In an instant he tore off sorae plantain-
branches, fastened them together -with long, tough grass, laid a few
leaves upon them, launched them in the water, and then told me to
take possession of this apology for a boat. I must own that I felt
rather frightened, although I id not like to say so. I stept on board,
and my guide swam behind and pushed me forward. I made the
passage to the opposite side and back without any accident, but I was
in truth rather alarmed the whole time. The boat was small, and
floated under rather than upon the water — there was nothing I could
support myself with, and every minute I expected to fall into the

THE LAKE VAIUIRIA. 83
lake. I would not ad\ise any one who cannot swim ever to follow
my example.
After I had sufficiently admired the lalce and the sm-roiinding
scenery, we retraced our way for some hundred yards, until we reached
a Uttle spot roofed over with leaves. Here my guide quickly made
a good iu-e, after the Indian fashion. He took a small piece of wood,
which he eut to a flne point, and then selecting a second piece, he
made in it a narrow furrow not very deep. In this he rubbed the
pointed stick until tiie Httle particles which were detached during
the operation began to smoke. These he threw into a quantity of
dry leaves and grass which he had got together for the purpose, and
swung the whole several tiraes round in the afr, imtil it burst out
into flames. The entfre process did not take more than two minutes.
For our supper, he gathered a few plantains and laid thera on
the fire. I profited by the opportiiiUty to dry my clothes, by sitting
do-wn near the flre, and turning flrst one side towards it, and then the
other. Half wet thi-ough, and tolerably fatigued, I retired to my
couch of dry leaves imraediately after partaking of our scanty meal.
It is a fortunate circumstance that in these wUd and remote districte
neither men nor beasts afford the slightest grounds for apprehension ;
the former are very quiet and peaceably inclined, and, with the excep
tion of a few -wild boars, the latter are not dangerous. The island is
especiaUy favoured ; it contains no poisonous or hurtful insects or
reptUes. It is true there are a few scorpions, but so smaU and harm
less, that they may be handled with impunity. The rausquitoes alone
were the source of veiy considerable annoyance, as they are in aU
southern countries.
8th May. It began to rain very violently during the night, and in
the moming I was sorry to see that there was not much hope of its
clearing up ; on the contrary, the clouds became blacker and blacker,
and collecting from aU sides, Uke so many e-ril spirite, poured down
in torrents upon the innocent earth. Nevertheless, in spite of this,
there was no other course open to us but to bid defiance to the angry
water deity, and proceed upon our journey. In half an hour I was
literaUy drenched ; this being the case, I went on uncomplainingly, as
it was impossible for me to become wetter than I was.
On my return to Papara, I found that Tati's son was not buried,
but the ceremony took place the next day. The clergyman pronounced
a short discourse at the side of the grave ; and, as the cofiin was being
lowered, the mate, sfraw hat, and clothes of the deceased, as well as a
few of the presents, were thro-wn in with it. The relations were
present, but as unconcerned as I was myself.
The graveyard was in the imraediate vicinity of several murais.
The latter are sraall four-cornered plots of ground surrounded by
stone waUs three or four feet high, where the natives used to deposit
their dead, which were left exposed upon wooden frames until the
flesh fell from the bones. These were then collected and buried in
some lonely spot.
The same evenmg I witnessed a reraarkable mode of catching fish.
Two boys waded out into the sea, one with a stick, and the other with
a quantity of buming chips. The one with the stick drove the fish

S4 A -woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
between the rocks, and then hit them, the other Ughting him in the
meanwhile. They were not yery fortunate, however. The more
comraon and successful manner of fishing is -with nete.
Ahnost every day Monsieur  had visits from officers who were
passing, accompanied by thefr misfresses. The reader may easUy
imagine that the laws of propriety were not, however, always sfrictly
observed, and as I had no desfre to disturb the gentlemen in their
inteUectual conversation and arauseraent, I retfred -with ray book into
the servante' roora. They, too, would laugh and joke, but, at least,
in such a manner that there was no occasion to blush for them.
It was highly arausing to hear Monsieur  ¦ launch out in praise
ofthe attachment and gratitude of his Indian beauty; he would have
altered his tone had he seen her behaviour in his absence. On one
occasion I could not help telling one of the gentlemen my opinion of
-the matter, and expressing my astonishment that they could fr-eat
these grasping and avaricious creatures with such attention and kind
ness, to load them with presente, anticipate thefr every "wish, and
forgive and put up -with thefr most glaring faults. The answer I
received was : that these ladies, if not so freated and loaded with
presents, would quickly run off, and that, in fact, even by the kindest
attentions they never aUowed themselves to be influenced very long.
From all I saw, I must repeat my former assertion, that the
Tahitian people are endowed -with none of the more noble sentiraents
of huraanity, but that thefr only pleasures are merely aniraal. Natm-e
herself encourages them to this in an exfraordinary manner. They
have no need to gain thefr bread by the sweat of thefr brow ; the
island is most plentifuUy suppUed with beautiful fi-uit, tubercles of aU
descriptions, and terae pigs, so that the people have really only to
gather the fi-uit and kUl the pigs. To this cfrcumstance is to be
attributed the difficulty that existe of obtaining any one as seivant
or in any other capacity. The most -wretched journeyman -wUl not
work for less than a dollar a-day; the price for washing a dozen
handkerchiefs, or any other articles, is also a doUar (4s.), not includ
ing soap. A native, whom I desfred to engage as guide, demanded
a doUar and a half a day.
I returned from Papara to Papeiti in the company of an officer and
his native beauty ; we walked the thfrty-six mUes in a day. On our
way, we passed the hut of the gfrl's mother, where we partook of a
most splendid dish. It was composed of bread-fi-uit, mangoes, and
bananas, kneaded together into a paste, and cooked upon hot stones.
It was eaten, whUe warm, with a sauce of orange-juice.
On taking leave, the officer gave the gui a present of a doUar to
give her mother ; the gfrl took it as indifferently as if it were not
of the slightest value, and her mother did exactly the sarae, neither
of thera pronouncing one word of thanks, or manifesting the least
sign of satisfaction.
We now and then came upon some portions of the road, the work
of pubHc offenders, that were most excellently constructed. When
ever an Indian is convicted of a crime, he is not chained in a gang,
Uke convicts in Europe, but condemned to make or mend a certain
extent of road, and the natives fulfll the tasks thus imposed with

THE DEFILE OF FANTAUA AND THE DIADEM. 85
such punctuaUty, that no overseer is ever necessary. This kind of
punishment was introduced under King Pomare I., and originated
with the natives themselves. — the Europeans have merely continued
the practice.
At Punavia we entered the fort, where we refreshed om-selves, in
miUtary fashion, with bread, wme, and bacon, and reached om- jour
ney's end at 7 o'clock in the morning.
Besides Papara, I visited also Venus Point, a small tongue of land
where Cook observed the transit of Venus. The stone on which he
placed his insbuments stUl reraains. On ray way, I passed the grave,
or mural, of King Pomare I. It consists of a smaU piece of ground,
sm-rounded by a stone wall, and covered with a roof of palm-leaves.
Some half-decayed pieces of cloth and portions of wearing apparel
were stiU lying in it.
One of my most interesting excursions, however, was that to
Fantaua and the Diadem. The former is a spot which the Indians
considered impregnable ; but where, nevertheless, they were weU
beaten by the French during the last war. Monsieur Bruat, the gover
nor, was kind enough to lend me his horses, and to allow me the
escort of a non-commissioned officer, who could point out to me each
position of the Indians and French, as he had himself been in the
engagement. For more than two hours, we proceeded through horrible ravines,
thick woods, and rapid mountain torrents. The ravines often became
so narrow as to form so many defiles, with such precipitous and
inaccessible sides, that here, as at TherraopylEe, a handful of valiant
warriors might defy whole armies. As a natural consequence, the
enti-ance of Fantaua is regarded as the real key to the whole island.
There was no other means of taking it than by soaUng one of its
most precipitous sides, and pressing forward upon the narrow ledge
of rock above, so as to take the enemy in the rear. The governor.
Monsieur Bruat, annoimced that he would confide this dangerous en
terprise to volunteers, and he soon had more than he could employ.
From those chosen, a second selection of only sixty-two men was
made : these divested themselves of every article of clothing save
their shoes and drawers, and took no other arms save their muskets.
After clarabering up for twelve hours, and incurring great danger,
they succeeded, by the aid of ropes, and by sticking pointed iron-rods
and bayonets into the rock, in reaching the crest of the mountain,
where their appearance so astonished the Indians, that they lost all
courage, threw down their arras, and surrendered. They said that
those who were capable of deeds like this, could not be men but
spirits, against whom aU hopes of resistance were out of the question
altogether. At present, there is a smaU fort buUt at Fanteua, and on one of
its highest points stands a guard-house. The path leading to it is
over a small ledge of rock, skfrted on each side by a yawning abyss.
Persons affected with giddiness can only reach it vrith great difficulty,
if indeed they can do so at aU. In this last case, they are great losers,
for the prospect is magnificent in the extreme, extending over val
leys, ra-rines, and mountains without number (among the latter may
^G 2

86 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
be mentioned the colossal rock called the " Diadem"), thick forests
of palms and other frees ; and beyond aU these, the_ mighty ocean,
broken into a thousand waves against the rooks and reefs, and in the
distance mingling with the azure sky.
Near the fort, a waterfall precipitates itself perpendicularly down
a narrow ravine. Unfortunately, the bottom of it is concealed by
jutting rocks and promontories, and the volume of water is rather
small ; otherwise, this fall would, on account of its height, which is
certainly more than 400 feet, deserve to be classed among the most
celebrated ones with which I am acquainted.
The road from the fort to the Diadem is extremely fatiguing, and
fuUy three hours are requfred to accompHsh the journey. The pros
pect here is even more magnificent than from the fort, as the eye
beholds the sea over two sides of the island at the same time.
This excm-sion was my last in this beautiful isle, as I was obUged
to embark on the next day, the 17th of May. The cargo was cleared,
and the baUast taken on board. All articles to which the French
troops are accustomed, such as fiour, salted raeat, potatoes, pulse,
wine, and a variety of others, have to be imported.*
I felt extremely reluctant to leave ; and the only thing that tended
at aU to cheer my spirite, was the thought of my speedy arrival in
China, that most wonderful of ail known countries.
We left the port of Papeiti on the morning of the 17th of May,
with a most favourable -wind, soon passed in safety all the dangerous
coral-reefs which surround the island, and in seven hours' time had
lost sight of it altogether. Towards evening, we beheld the mountain
ranges of the island of Huaheme, which we passed during the night.
The commencement ot our voyage was remarkably pleasant.
Besides the favourable breeze, which still continued, we enjoyed the
company of a fine Belgian brig, the Rubens, which had put to sea at
the same tirae as ourselves. It was seldora that we approached near
enough for the persons on board to converse -with each other ; but
whoever is at all acquainted with the endless uniforraity of long
voyages, -will easUy understand our satisfaction at knowing we were
even in the neighbourhood of huraan beings.
We pursued the sarae track as far as the PhiUppine Islands, but
on the morning of the thfrd day our companion had disappeared,
leaving us in ignorance whether she had out-saUed us or we her. AVe
were once more alone on the endless waste of waters.
On the 23i-d of May, we approached very near to the low island
of Penchyn. A dozen or two of the natives were desirous of honour
ing us with a visit, and pulled stoutly in six canoes towards our ship,
but we saUed so fast that they were soon left a long way behind.
Several of the sailors affirmed, that these were specimens of real
savages, and that we inight reckon ourselves fortunate in having
escaped their visit. The captain, too, appeared to share this opinion,
and I was the only person who regretted not having formed a more
intimate acquaintance with them.
• Up to the present period, Tahiti has produced nothing for exportation, and there
fore all vessels have to clear out in ballast. The island is important to tbe French, as a
port where their ships in the Pacific may stop and refit.

VOYAGE TO CHINA. 87
28th May. For some days we had been fortunate enough to be
visited, from time to time, with violent showers ; a most remarkable
thing for the tirae of year in tins climate, where the rainy season
commences in January and lasts for three months,, the sky for the
remaining nine being generally cloudless. This present exception
was the more welcome from our being just on the Line, where we
should otherwise have suffered much from the heat. The thermome
ter stood at only 81° in the shade, and 97° in the sun.
To-day at noon we crossed the Line, and were once raore in the
northern hemisphere. A Tahitian sucking-pig was killed and con
sumed in honom- of our successful passage, and our native hemisphere
toasted in real hock.
On the 4th of June, under 8° North latitude, we beheld again, for
the first time, the lovely polar star.
On the l7th of June, we passed so near to Saypan, one of the
largest of the Ladrone Islands, that we could raake out the raountains
very distinctly. The Ladrone and Marianne Islands are situated
between the 13° and 21° North latitude, and the 145° and 146° East
longitude. On the 1st of July we again saw land : this time it was the coast
of Luco-ria, or Luzon, the largest of the Philippines, and lying between
the 18° and 19° North latitude, and the 125° and 119° East longitude.
The port of Manilla is situated on the southern coast of the island.
In the course of the day we passed the island of Babuan, and
several detached rocks, rising, colossus Uke, from the sea. Four of
them were pretty close together, and formed a picturesque group.
Some time afterwards we saw two raore.
In the night of the lst-2nd of July, we reached the western point
of Luzon, and entered on the dangerous Chinese Sea. I was heartUy
glad at last to. bid adieu to the Pacific Ocean, for a voyage on it is
one ofthe most monotonous things that can be imagined. The ap
pearance of another ship is a rare occurrence ; and the water is so
calm that it resembles a stream. Very frequently I used to start up
from my desk, thinking that I was in some diminutive room ashore ;
and my mistake was the more natural, as we had three horses, a dog,
several pigs, hens, geese, and a canary bfrd on board, all respectively
neighing, barking, gi-unting, cackUng, and singing^ as if they were in
a farm-yard. 6th July. For the flrst few days after entering the Chinese sea,
we sailed pretty weU in the same fashion we had done in the Paciflc —
proceeding slowly and quietly on our way. To-day we beheld the
coast of China for the flrst time, and towards evening we were not
¦nore than thfrty -three miles from Macao. I was rather impatient for
the foUowing moming. I longed to find ray darling hope realized, of
putting my foot upon Chinese ground. I pictured the mandarins with
their high caps, and the ladies with their tiny feet, when in the
middle of the night the wind shifted, and on the 7th of July -we
had been carried back 115 miles. In addition to this, the glass feU
so low, that we dreaded a Tai-foon, which is a very dangerous kind of
storm, or rather hurricane, that is very frequent in the phinese sea
during the months of July, August, and September. It is generaUy

88 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
first announced by a black cloud on the horizon, with one edge dark
red, and the other half-white,; and this is accompanied by the most
awful torrents of rain, by thunder, Ughtning, and the -riolent winds,
which arise simultaneously on all sides, and lash the waters up
mountains high. We took every precaution in anticipation of our
dangerous enemy, but for once they were not needed : either the
hurricane did not break out at all, or else it broke out at a great distance
frora us ; for we were only -risited by a trifling storra of no long
duration. On the Sth of July we' again reached the vicinity of Macao, and
entered the Straits of Lema. Our course now lay between bays and
reefs, diversifled by groups of the most beautiful islands, offering a
series of most magnificent and varied -riews.
On the 9th of July we anchored in Macao Roads. The town,
which belongs to the Portuguese, and has a population of 20,000 in
habitants, is beautifully situated on the sea-side, and surrounded by
pleasing hiUs and mountains. The most remarkable objects are the
palace of the Portuguese governor, the CathoHc monastery of Guia,
the fortifications, and a few flne houses which Ue scattered about the
hiUs in picturesque disorder.
Besides a few European ships, there wefe anchored in the roads
several large Chinese junlvs, while a great number of smaU boats,
manned by Chinese, were rocking to and and fro around us.

CHAPTER VIIL
CHINA.
Macao — Hong-Kono — Victoria — Voyage on eoard a Chinese Junk — The Si-
IClANG, CALLED ALSO THE TiGRtS — WiIAMPO-V^CanTON, OR KUANQTSCHEE-PU — MODB
OF Life pursued bv Europeans — The Chinese Manners anu Customs — Criminals
AND Pirates — murder oe Vaucuie — Promenades and Excursions.
A YEAR before ray arrival in China, it would have seemed hardly
credible to me that I should ever succeed in taking ray place among
the small number of Europeans who are acquainted with that re
markable country, not from books alone, but from actual observation ;
I never beUeved that I should reaUy behold the Chinese, with thefr
shaven heads, long tails, and small, ugly, narrow eyes, the exact
counterparte of the representations of them which we have in
Europe. We had hardly anchored, before a number of Chinese clambered
up on deck, whUe others remained in their boats, offering for sale a
variety of beautifuUy made articles, with fruit and cakes, laid out
in great order, so as to forra in a few seconds a regular market round
the vessel. Some of them began praising their wares in broken
English ; but on the whole, they did not drive a very flourishing
business, as the crew merely bought a few cigars, and a Httle fruit.
Captain Jm-ianse hfred a boat, and we immediately went on shore,
where each person on landing had to pay half a Spanish dollar (2s,)
to the mandarin : I subsequently heard that this imposition was
shortly afterwards aboUshed. We proceeded to the house of one of
the Portuguese merchants estabUshed there, passing through a large
portion of the to'wn on our way thither. Europeans, both men and
women, can cfrculate freely, without being exposed to a shower of
¦stones, as is frequently the case in other Chinese towns. The streets,
which are exclusively inhabited by Chinese, presented a very bustling
aspect. The men were in many cases seated out of doors in groups,
playing at dominoes, while locksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, and
many others were either working, talking, playing, or dining in the
numerous booths. I observed but few women, and these were of the
lower classes. Nothing surprised and amused me more than the
manner in which the Chinese eat ; they have two little sticks, -with
which they very skUfuUy convey their victuals into thefr mouths.
This process, however, cannot be so successfully practised with rice,
because it does not hold together; they therefore hold the plate con
taining it close to thefr mouths, and push it in by the aid of the
sticks, generaUy letting a portion of it fall back again, in no very
cleanly fashion, into the plate. For liquids they use round spoons
of porcelain.

80 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
ITie style in which the houses are buUt, did not strike me as very
remarkable; the front generally looks out upon the courtyard or
garden. Among other objects which I visited was the grotto, in which the
celebrated Purtuguese poet, Camoens, is said to have composed the
Lusiade. He had been banished, A. D. 1556, to Macao, on account of
a satfrical poem he had written, Disperates no India, and remained
in banishment several years before receiving a pardon. The grotto is
charmingly situated upon an eminence not far from the town.
As there was no business to be done, the captain resolved to put
to sea again the next morning, and offered in the most friendly man
ner to take me as his guest to Hong-Kong, as I had only agreed for
a pas,sage as far as Macao. I accepted his invitation with the greater
pleasure, as I had not a single letter to any one in Macao ; besides
which, it is yery seldom that there is an opportunity of proceeding
to Hong-Kong. On account of the shallowness of the water, our ship was hove to
at rather a long distance from the shore, where it was exposed to an
atteck from the pfrates, who are here very daring and numerous. In
consequence of this, every precaution was taken, and the watch
doubled for the night.
As late as the year 1842 these pirates attacked a brig that was
lying at anchor in the Macao Roads, murdering the crew and plun
dering the vessel. The captain had remained on shore, and the
saUors had carelessly given themselves up to sleep, leaving only one
man to keep watch. In the nUddle of the night a schampan — which
is the narae given to a vessel smaUer than a junk — came alongside
the brig. One of the rowers then came on board, pretending he had
a letter frora the captain ; and as the sailor went near the lantern to
read the letter, he received from the pfrate a blow upon his head
which laid him senseless on the deck ; the rest of those in the boat,
who had hitherto remained concealed, now scaled the side of the brig,
and quickly overpowered the slumbering crew.
In our case, however, the night passed without any incident worth
noting ; and on the raorning of the 10th of July, having flrst taken
on board a pilot, we proceeded to Hong-Kong, a distence of sixty
nautical railes. The voyage proved highly interesting, on account of
the varied succession of bays, creeks, and groups of islands which we
had to pass.
The English obtained Hong-'Kong from the Chinese at the con
clusion of the war in 1842, and founded the port of Victoria, which
contains at present a large number of palace-like houses built of stone.
The Europeans who have settled here, and who are not more than
two or three hundred in number, are far from being contented, how
ever, as trade is not half as good as they at first expected it would
be. Every merchant is presented by the EngHsh government with a
plot of ground, on condition of his building on it. Many of them
erected, as I before mentioned, splendid edifices, which tliey would
now be glad to sell for half the cost price, or even very frequently to
give the gi-ound and foimdations, without asking the smaUest sum in
return.

VICTORIA. 91
I resolved to stop only a few days in Victoria, as it was my wish
to arrive at Canton as soon as possible.
In addition to the great politeness he had previously shown me,
Captain Jurianse conferred another favour, by allowing me, during
my stay here, to Hve and lodge on board his ship, thereby saving ine
an expense of 16s. or 24s.* a day; and, besides this, the boat which
he had hired for his own use was always at my disposal. I must
also talie this opportunity of mentioning that I never drank, on board
any other vessel, such clear and exceUent water — a proof that it is not
so easily spoilt by the heat of the fropics, or a protracted period, as is
generally imagined. It all depends upon care and cleanliness, for
which the Dutch are especially celebrated ; and I only wish that every
captain would, in this respect at least, imitate their example. It is
rather too bad for passengers to be obliged to quench tlieir thirst
with thick and most offensive water — a disagreeable necessity I was
subjected to on board every other sailing vessel in wluch I made a
voyage of any length.
Victoria is not very pleasantly situated, being surrounded by
barren rocks. The town iteelf has a European stamp upon it, so that
were it not for the Chinese porters, labourers, and pedlars, a person
would hardly believe he was in China. I was much struck at seeing
no native women in the streets, from which it raight be concluded
that it was dangerous for a European female to walk about as freely
as I did ; but I never experienced the least insult, or heard the slight
est word of abuse from the Chinese ; even thefr cm-iosity was here by
no means annoying.
In A'^ictoria I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with tho
well-known Herr Giitzlaff,t and four other German missionaries.
They were studying the Chinese language ; and wore the Chinese
costume, with thefr heads shaved like the natives, and with largo
cues hanging down behind. No language is so difficult to read and
"write as the Chinese ; it contains more than four thousand characters,
and is wholly coraposed of monosyllables. Little brushes dipped in
* The expense of living at an hotel in Macao, Victoria, and Canton js frora four to six
dollars a-day (16s. to 24s.).
-t Carl Gutzlaff -was born on the 8tb of July, 1803, at Pyritz, in Pomerania. -is a boy
he -was distinguished for his piety and extraordinary talent. His parents apprenticed
him to a leather-seller. In this capacity he was noted for his industry, although he was
fai- from contented with his position ; and, in the year 1821, be found an opportunity of
presenting a poem, in which he expressed bis sentiments and -wishes, to the Kin? of
Prussia. The king recognised the talent of the struggling youth, and opened to bim a
career in accordance -with his inclination. In the year 1827 he proceeded as amissionary
to Batavia, and, at a later period, to Bintang, -where he applied himself with such assiduity
to the study of Chinese, that in the space of two years be knew it well enough to preach
in it. In December, 1831, he went to Macao, where he established a sc-nool for Chinese
children, and commenced his translation of the Bible into Chinese. He founded, in con
junction -with Morrison, a Society for the Diflfusion of Useful Kno-wlcdge in China, and
edited a monthly Chinese piagazine, in which he endeavoured to interest the people upou
history, geography, and literature. In 1832 and 1833 he penetrated as far as the province
ofEo-Kien. Gutzlaff^ s Travels have made us acquainted witb several very important facts connected
-with the diiferent Chinese dialects, and ai-e also of great worth in other scientific pointK
of view. They are especially useful in enabling us to form a correct opinion as to ihe
merits ofthe works that have lately appeared on China; and every one must acknowledge
his rare talent, must value bis immoveable iixedness of purpose, and raust admire hip
zealous uerscverance in the cause of science, and his unshaken belief in the principles of
his religion. (Dr. Gutzlaff died in November, 1851).

92 A WOMAN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
Indian ink are used for -writing, the writing itself extending down
the paper from right to left.
I had not been above a few days in Victoria before I had an oppor
tunity of proceeding to Canton on board a small Chinese junk. A
gentleman of the name of Pustan, who is settled as a raerchant here,
and whora I found excessively kind, endeavoured very earnestly to
dissuade me from trusting myself araong the Chinese -without 'any
protector, and advised me either to take a boat for myself or a place
in the steamer ; but both these means were too dear for my small
finances, since either would have cost twelve dollars, whereas a pas
sage in the junk was only three. I must also add, that the appear
ance and behaviour of the Chinese did not inspire me with the
slightest apprehension. I looked to the priming of my pistols, and
embarked very tranquilly on the evening of the 12th of July.
A hea-vy faU of rain, and the approach of night, soon obliged me
to seek the interior of the vessel, where I passed my time in observ
ing my Chinese fellow-travellers.
The company were, it is true, not very select, but behgyed -with
great propriety, so that there was nothing which could prevent ray
remaining among them. Some were playing at dominoes, whUe
others were extracting most horrible sounds from a sort of mandolin
with three strings ; all, however, were smoking, chatting, and drink
ing tea, without sugar, frora little saucers. I, too, had this celestial
drink offered to me on all sides. Every Chinese, rich or poor, drinks
neither pure water nor spfrituous Hquors, but invariably indulges in
weak tea with no sugar.
At a late hour in the evening I retfred to my cabin, the roof of
which, not being completely waterproof, let in certain very unwel
come proofs that it was raining outside. The captein no sooner
remarked this than he assigned me another place, where I found
myself in the corapany of two Chinese woraen, busUy engaged in
smoking out of pipes with bowls no bigger than thimbles, and in
consequence they could not take more than four or five puffs without
being objiged to fiU their pipes afresh.
They soon reraarked that I had no stool for my head. They
offered rae one of theirs, and would not be satisfied untU I accepted
it. It is a Chinese custora to use, instead of pillows, little stools of
bamboo or strong pasteboard. They ai-e not stuffed, but are rounded at
the top, and are about eight inches high, and from one to three feet
long. They are far more comfortable than would at first be ima
gined. 13th July. On hurrying up on deok early in the moming to view
the mouth of the Si-Kiang, or Tigris, I found that we had already
passed it, and were a long way up the river. I saw it, however, sub
sequently, on my return from Canton to Hong-Kong. The Si-Kiang,
which is one of the principal rivers of China, and which, at a short
distance before entering the sea, is eight nautical mUes broad, is so con
tracted by hUls and rocks at its mouth, tiiat it loses one half of its
breadth. The surrounding country is flne, and a few fortiflcations on
the summits of some of the hills, give it rather a romantic appearance.
Near Hoo-man, or Whampoa, the stream divides into several

VOYAGE ON BO.AED A CHINESE JUNK. 93
branches ; that which flows to Canton being called the Pearl stream.
Altiiough Whampoa of itself is an insignificant place, it is worthy of
note, as beiug the spot where, frora the shallowness of the water, all
deeply laden ships are obUged to anchor.
Immense plantations of rice, skirted by bananas and other fruit-
trees, extend along the banks of the Pearl stream. The trees are
sometimes prettUy arranged in alleys, but are planted far less for orna
ment than for use. Rice always requires a great deal of moisture,
and the trees are planted in order to impart a greater degree of
soUdity to the soU, and also to prevent the possibUity of its being
washed away by the force of the stream. Pretty little country houses
of the genuine Chinese pattern, -with tlieir sloping, pointed, indented
roofs, and thefr coloured tiles inlaid with different hues, were scattered
here and there, under groups of shady trees, whUe pagodas (called
Tas) of various styles, and from three to nine stories high, raised
thefr heads on Uttle eminences in the neighbourhood of the villages,
and attracted attention at a great distance. A number of fortifications,
which, however, look more like roofless houses than anything else,
protect the stream.
For mUes below Canton, the vUlages follow one another in quick
succession. They are mostly composed of miserable huts, built for
the raost part on pUes driven into the river, and before them lie
innumerable boats, which also serve as dwellings.
The nearer we approached Canton, the busier became the scene
on the river, and the greater the nuraber of ships and inhabited boats.
I saw some junks of most extraordinary shape, having poops that
hung far over the water, and provided with large 'windows and gal
leries, and covered in with a roof, like a house. These vessels are
often of immense size, and of a thousand tons' burden. I also saw
some Chinese men-of-war, flat, broad, and long, and mounting twenty
or thirty cannons.* Another object of interest was the mandarins'
boats, -with thefr painted sides, doors, and windows, their carved
galleries, and pretty little silk flags, giving them the appearance of
the most channing houses; hut what deUghted me most was the
flower-boats, with thefr upper galleries ornamented with flowers,
garlands, and arabesques. A large apartraent and a few cabinets, into
which the interior is divided, are reached through doors and windows
which have almost a Gothic appearance. Mirrors and silk hangings
adorn the walls, whUe glass chandeHers and colom-ed paper lanterns,
between which swing lovely little baskets with fresh flowers, complete
the magic scene.
These flower-boats are always stationary, and are frequented by
the Chinese as places of arauseraent, both by day and night. Plays
are acted here, and baUets and conjuring perforraed. Woraen, with
the exception of a certain class, do not frequent these places ; Euro
peans are not exactiy prevented from entering them, hut are exposed,
especially in the present unfavourable state of pubUc opinion, to
insult and even injury.
In addition to these extraordinary vessels, let the reader picture
• All large -vessels have two painted eyes let into the pro-w ; with these, as the Chinese
believe, they are better able to find their way.

94 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
to himself thousands of small boats (schampans), sorae at anchor,
some crossing and passing in all directions, with fishermen easting
their nets, and men and children amusing theraselves by swimming,
and he will have some idea of the scene I witnessed. I often could
not avoid turning away with terror at seeing the Httle children play
ing and rolUng about upon the narrow boats, I expected every instant
that one or other of them would certeinly faU overboard. Some
parents are cautious enough to fasten hollow gourds, or bladders
filled with air, on thefr chUdren's backs, untU they are six years old,
so as to prevent them sinking so quickly, if they should happen to
tumble into the water.
All these multifarious occupations — this ceaseless activity, this
never-ending bustle, form so peculiar a feature, that it is hardly
possible for a person who has not been an eye--witness to obtain a
coiTect idea of it.
It is only during the last few years that we European women
have been allowed to visit or remain in the factories at Canton. I
left the vessel without any apprehension ; but first, I had to consider
how I should find my way to the house of a gentleman named Agassiz,
for whora I had brought letters of recommendation. I explained to
the captain, by signs, that I had no money with me, and that he
must act as my gidde to the factory, where I would pay him. He
soon understood me, and conducted me to the place, and the Europeans
there showed me the particular house I wanted.
On seeing rae arrive, and hearing the manner in which I had
travelled, and the way that I had walked from the vessel to his house,
Mr. Agassiz was extremely surprised, and would hardly credit that
I had met -with no difficulties or injury. From hira Ileamed what risks
I, as a woman, had run in traversing the streets of Canton with no
escort but a Chinese guide. Such a thing had never occurred before,
and Mr. Agassiz assured me that I might esteem myself as exceedingly
fortunate in not having been insulted by the people in the grossest
manner, or even stoned. Had this been the case, he told me that my
guide would have immediately taken to flight, and abandoned me
to my fate. -
I had certainly remarked, on my way fi-om the vessel to the factory,
that both old and young tumed back to look after me, and that they
hooted and pointed at me with their flngers ; the people ran out of
the booths, and gradually formed a crowd at my heels. I had, how
ever, no alternative but to preserve my countenance ; I walked, there
fore, calmly on, and perhaps it is to the very fact of my manifesting
no fear that I escaped unmolested.
I had not intended to stop long in Canton, as, since the last war
between the English and Chinese, Europeans are obliged to be raore
careful than ever how they show themselves in public. This hatred
is more especially directed against women, as it is declared in one of
the Chinese prophecies that a woman will sorae day or other conquer
the Celestial Empire. On account of this, I entertained but slight
hopes of seeing anything here, and thought of proceeding directiy to
the port of Shanghai, in the north of-China, where, as I was informed,
it was far easier to obtain access both among the nobiUty and lower

CANTON — MODE OF LIFE PURSUED BY EUllOPEANS. 95
classes. Fortunately, however, I made the acquaintance of a German
gentleman, Herr von Carlowitz, who had been settled for some time
in Canton. He offered, in the kindest manner, to act as my Mentor,
on condition that I should arm myself with patience until the mail
from Europe, which was expected in a few days, had come in.* At
such times the merchants are so busy and excited, that they have no
leisure to think of anything but their correspondence. I was, there
fore, obHged to wait, not only until the steamer had arrived, but until
it had left again, which it did not do until a week had elapsed, I
have to thank Mr. Agassiz that the time did not hang heavily upon
my hands ; I was most kindly and hospitably entertained, and en
joyed the opportunity of noting the mode of Ufe of those Europeans
who have settled in the country.
Very few take thefr families with them to China, and least of all
to Canton, where both women and chUdi-en are closely imprisoned in
their houses, which they can only leave in a well-closed litter.
Besides this, everything is so dear, that li-ving in London is cheap
in comparison. Lodgings of six rooras, with a kitchen, cost about
700 or 800 dollars a-year (£140 or £160). A man-servant receives
from four to eight dollars a-month, and female servants nine or ten
doUars, as Chinese women will not wait upon a European unless greatly
overpaid. In addition to aU this, there is a custom prevalent here,
of having a separate person for each branch of household duty, which
renders a large number of servants indispensable.
A family of only four persons requfres at least eleven or twelve
domestics, if not more. In the flrst place, every member of the
family must have an attendant especially for his or her use; then
there is a man-cook, a number of nursery-maids, and several coolies
for the more menial duties, such as cleaning the rooms, carrying the
wood and water, and so forth. In spite of this number of servants,
the attendance is fi-equently very bad ; for, if one or other of them
happens to be out, and his services are requfred, his master must wait
untU he retm-ns, as no servant could ever be prevaUed upon to do
another's duty.
At the head of the whole household is the comprador, who is a
kind of major-dorao. To his care are confided all the plate, furniture,
Unen, and other effects ; he engages aU the servants, provides for
thefr board, and anything else they raay require, and answers for
thefr good conduct, deducting, however, two doUars a-month from the
wages of each, in retum for his services. He makes all the purchases,
and settles all the bUls, gi-ving in the sum total -at the end of the
month, ¦without descending into the items.
Besides these domestic duties, the comprador is also entrusted
¦with the money belonging to his master's firm; hundreds of thou
sands of dollars pass through his hands, and he is responsible for the
genuineness of every one. He has persons in his own employment who
pay and receive all monies, and who examine and test every separate
coin with the most marvellous rapidity. They take a whole handful
of dollars at a time, and toss them up separately with the finger and
thumb: this enables them to determine whether each "lings" pro-
• There is only ono mail a month from Europe.

S6 A -woman's journey EOUND THE WORLD.
perly, and on the coin falUng into their hand again, reversed, they
examine the second side with a glance. A few hours are sufficient to
pass several thousand dollars in review ; and this minute inspection
is very necessary, on account of the number of false dollars made by
the Chinese. Each piece of money is then stamped vrith the peculiar
mark of the firm, as a guarantee of its genuinenessj. so that it at last
becomes exceedingly thin and broad, and frequently faUs to bits ; no
loss is, however, occasioned by this, as the amount is always reckoned
by weight. Besides doUars, Uttie bars of pure unstamped silver are
used as a cfrculating medium ; small portions, varying m size, being
cut off them, according to the sum requfred. The counting-house is
situated on the ground floor, in the comprador's room. The Euro
peans have nothing to do with the money, and, in fact, never even
carry any for their private use.
The comprador has no fixed salary, but receives a state4 per-centage
upon all business transactions: his per-centage upon the household
expenses is not fixed, but is not on that account less certain. On
the whole, these compradors are very trustworthy. They pay down
a, certain sum, as caution-money, to- sorae mandarin, and the latter
answers for them.
The following is a tolerably correct account of the mode of Ufe
pur,sueil by the Europeans settled here. As soon as they are up, and
have drunk a cup of tea in their bed-room, they take a cold bath. A
Httle after 9 o'clock, they breakfast upon fried fish or cutlets, cold
roast meat, boiled eggs, tea, and bread and butter. Every one then
proceeds to his business until dinner-time, which is generaUy 4
o'clock. The dinner is composed of turtle-soup, curry, roast meat,
hashes, and pastry. All the dishes, with the exception of the curry,
are prepared after the EngUsh fashion, although the cooks are
Chinese. For dessert there is cheese, -with fruit ; such as pine-apples,
long-yen, mangoes, and lytchL The Chinese afiirm that the latter is
the finest fruit in the whole world. It is about the size of a nut,
with a brown verrucous outside ; the edible part is white and tender,
and the kernel black. Long-yen is somewhat smaller, but is also
white and tender, though the taste is rather watery. Neither of these
fruits struck me as very good. I do not think the pine-apples are
so sweet, or possessed of that aromatic fragrance which distinguishes
those raised in our European greenhouses, although they are much
larger. Portuguese wines and English beer are the usual drinks — ice,
broken into smaU pieces, and covered up with a cloth, is offered witii
each. The ice is rather a costly article, as it has to be brought from
North America. In the evening, tea is served up.
During meal-times, a large punkah is employed to diffuse an
agreeable degree of coohiess through the apartment. The punkah is
a large frame, from eight to ten feet long, and three feet high, covered
-with white Indian cloth, and fastened to the eeiUng. A rope com
municates, through the wall, like a bell-pull, with the next room,
or the ground floor, where a servant is stetioned to keep it constantly
in motion, and thus maintein a pleasing draught.
As may be seen from -what I have said, the living here is yery

THE CHINESE MANNEES AND CUSTOMS. 97
dear for Europeans. The expense of keeping a house may bo reckoned
at 30,000 francs (6,000 doUai-s— £1,200) at tho lowest; a very con
siderable sum, when we reflect how little it procures, neither including
a carriage nor horses. There is nothing in the way of amusement, or
places of public recreation ; the only pleasure many gentlemen indulge
in, is keeping a boat, for which they pay 28s. a-month, or they walk
in the evenings in a small garden, which the European inhabitants
have laid out at their own cost. This garden faces the factory, sur
rounded on three sides by a wall, and, on the fourth, washed by the
Pearl sfream.
The living of the Chinese population, on the contrary, costs very
little; 60 cash, 1,200 of which make a dollar (4s.), may be reckoned
a very Uberal daUy allowance for each man. As a natural conse
quence, wages are extremely low ; a boat, for instence, may be hired
for half a dollar (2s.) a-day, and on this income, a whole family of
fi-om six to eight persons will often exist. It is true, the Chinese are
not too particular in their food ; they eat dogs, cats, mice, and rats,
the intestines of bfrds, and the blood of every animal, r^nd I was even
assru-ed that caterpUlars and worms formed part of their diet. Their
principal dish, however, is rice, whieh is not only employed by them
in the composition of thefr various dishes, but supplies the place of
bread. It is exceedingly cheap ; the pekul, which is equal to 124-lbs.
English avoirdupois, costing from one dollar and three-quarters to
two dollars and a half.
The costume of both sexes, among the lower orders, consists of
broad trowsers and long upper garments, and is remarkable for its
excessive filth. The Clmiaman is an enemy of baths and washing ;
he weai-s no shfrt, and does not discard his trousers until they actually
fall off his body. The men's upper garments reach a little below the
knee, and the women's somewhat lower. They are made of nankeen,
or dark blue, bro-wn, or black sUk. During the cold season, both men
and women wear one summer-garment over the other, ahd keep the
whole together -with a gfrdle ; daring the great heat, however, they
aUow thefr garments to flutter unconstrained about their body.
All the raen have thefr heads shaved, with the exception of a small
pateh at the back, the hair on which is carefully cultivated and
plaited into a cue. The thicker and longer this cue is, the prouder
is its owner ; false hafr and black ribbon are consequently worked up
in it, so that it often reaches down to the ankles. During work, it is
twisted round the neck, but, on the owner's entering a roora, it is let
down again, as it would be against all the laws of etiquette and
poUteness for a person to make his appearance with his cue twisted
up. The women wear all thefr hair, which they comb entirely back
off their forehead, and fasten it in most artistic plaits to the head;
they spend a great deal of time in the process, but when thefr hair is
once dressed, it does not requfre to be touched for a whole week
Both men and women sometimes go about with no covering at all ou
thefr head ; somethnes they wear hats made of tlUn bamboo, and very
frequently three feet in diameter ; these keep off both sun and rain,
and are exceedingly durable.
On thefr feet they wear sewed stockings and shoes, formed of

98 A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
black silk, or some material like worsted ; the soles, which are more
than an inch thick, are made up of layers of strong pasteboard or felt
pasted together. The poor people go barefooted.
The houses of the lower classes are miserable hovels, built of wood
or brick. The intemal arrangements are very wretched : the whole
furniture consists of a worthless table, a few chairs, and two or three
bamboo-raats, stools for the head, and old counterpanes ; yet, with
this poverty, there are always sure to be sorae pots of fiowers.
The cheapest mode of living is on board a boat. The husband
goes on shore to his work, and leaves his wife to make a trifle by fer
rying persons over, or letting out the boat to pleasure parties. One
half the boat belongs to the faraily themselves, and the other half to the
persons to whom they let it ; and although there is not much room,
the whole boat measuring scarcely twenty-five feet in length, the great
est order and cleanHness is everywhere apparent, as each single plank
on board is thoroughly scrubbed and washed every moming. Great
ingenuity is displayed in turning every inch of space on board these
small craft to advantage, and the dexterity is actually pushed so far
as to find room for a tiny domestic altar. During the day all the
coolcery and washing is done, and though at the latter process there
is no want of Httle children, the temporary tenant of the boat does
not suffer the least annoyance ; nothing offensive meets his eye ; and,
at the most, he merely hears at rare intervals the whining voice of
some poor little wi-etch. The youngest child is generaUy tied on its
mother's back whUe she steers ; the elder children, too, have sometimes
simUar burdens, but jump and clirab about -without the least considera
tion for thera. It has often grieved rae to the heart to see the head of
an infant scarcely bom, thro-wn frora one side to the other with each
movement of the chUd that was carrying it, or the sun darting so
fiercely on the poor Uttle creature, who was completely exposed to its
rays, that it could hardly open ite eyes. For those who have not been
themselves witnesses of the fact, it is almost impossible to form an
idea of the indigence and poverty of a Chinese boat-family.
The Chinese are accused of kUling numbers of their new-born or
weakly children. They are said to suffocate them immediately after
their birth, and then throw thera into the river, or expose them in the
streets — by far the most horrible proceeding of the two, on account of
the number of swine and houseless dogs, who fall upon, and vora
ciously devour, their prey. The most frequent -victims are the female
infants, as parents esteem themselves fortunate in possessing a large
number of male children, the latter being bound to support them in
thefr old age ; the eldest son, in fact, should the father die, is obliged
to take his place, and provide for his brothers and sisters, who, on
thefr part, are bound to yield impUcit obedience, and show hira the
greatest respect. These laws are very strictiy observed, and any one
infringing thera is punished with death.
The Chinese consider it a great honour to be a grandfather, and
every man who is fortunate enough to be one wears a mousteche, as
the distinctive sign of his good luck. These thin grey mousteches
are the more conspicuous, as the young men not only wear none, but,
as a general rule, grow no beard at aU.

THE CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 99
With regard to tho social manners and customs of the Chinese, I
am only able to mention a few, as it is exceedingly difficult, and, in
fact, almost impossible, for a foreigner to become acquainted with
them. I endeavoured to see as much as I could, and mixed on every
possible opportunity among the people, afterwards writing down a true
account of what I had seen.
On going out one morning, I met moro than flfteen prisoners, aU
with a wooden yoke (can-gue) about their necks, being led through
t!io streets. This yoke is composed of two large pieces of wood, fltting
into one another, and having from one to three holes in them; through
tliose holes the head, and one or both hands, are stuck, in proportion
to the iraportance of the offence. A yoke of this description varies m
weight from flfty to a hundi-ed pomids, and presses so hea-yily upon
tho neck and shoulders of the poor wretch who bears it, that he is
unable to convey his -victuals to his mouth himself, and is compelled
to wait till some compassionate soul feeds him. This punishment lasts
from a few days to several months ; in the latter case the prisoner
generally dies.
Another description of punishment is the bastinado with the
bamboo, which, when appUed to the moro tender parts of the body,
very often, as early as the fifteenth blow, frees its victim for ever
from aU his earthly sufferings. Other more severe punishments,
which in no way yield the palm to those of the Holy Inquisition,
consist in flaying the prisoner alive, crushing his limbs, cutting the
sinews out of his feet, and so on. Their modes of carrying out the
sentence of death appear to be mild in comparison, and are generally
conflned to sti-angling and decapitation, although, as I was informed,
in certain exfraordinary cases, the prisoner is executed by being
sawed in two, or left to die of stai-vation. In the flrst case, the
unhappy ¦victim is raade fast between two planks, and sawed in two
longitudinally, beginning with the head ; and, iu the second, he is
either bmied up to his head in the ground, and thus left to perish of
want, or else is fastened in one of the wooden yokes I have described,
while his food is gradually reduced in quantity eveiy day, until at
last it consists of only a few grains of rice. In spite of tho horrible
and cruel nature ofthese pimishraents, it is said that individuals are
found ready, for a sum of money, to undergo them aU, death even
included, instead of the person condemned.
In the year 1846, 4,000 people were beheaded at Canton. It is
true that they were the criminals of two provinces, which together
numbered a population of 9,000,000 souls, but the number is still hor
rible to contemplate. Is it possible |hat there could really be so niany
who should be looked upon as crirainals — or are persons sentenced to
death for a raere nothing — or are both these suppositions true P
I once happened to go near the place of execution, and to my
horror beheld a long row of stUl bleeding heads exposed upon high
poles. The relations enjoy the pri^vilege of carrying away and in
terring the bodies.
There are several different religions in China, the most prevalent'.
being Buddhisra. It is marked by great superstition and idolatry,
^d is mostly confined to the lower classes. 'The most natural is that
H

100 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
of the wise Confucius, which is said to be the reUgion of the court,
the public functionaries, the scholars, and educated classes.
'The population of China is composed of a great many very dif
ferent races : unfortunately, I am unable to describe their several
characteristics, as my stey in China was far too short. The people I
saw in Canton, Hong-Kong, and Macao, are of middling stature.
Thefr complexion varies -with thefr occupation : the peasants and
labourers are rather sun-burnt ; rich people and ladies white. Thefr
faces are flat, broad, and ugly; their eyes are narrow, rather obUquely
placed, and far apart; thefr noses broad, and thefr mouth large. T'heU-
fingers I observed were in many cases extremely long and thin ; only
the rich (of both sexes) aUow tiiefr naUs to grow to an extraordinary
length, as a proof that they are not obHged, Uke thefr poorer brethren,
to gain their Uvelihood by manual labour. These aristocratic naUs
are generally half an inch long, though I saw one man whose naUs
were quite an inch in length, but only on his left hand. With this
hand it was impossible for him to raise any flat object, except by
laying his hand flat upon it, and catching hold of it between his fingers.
The women of the higher classes are generaUy incUned to cor
pulency, a quaUty which is highly esteemed not in women alone, but
in men as weU.
Although I had heard a great deal about the smaU feet of Chinese
woraen, I was greatly astonished at thefr appearance. Through the
kind assistance of a raissionary's lady (Mrs. Bait) I, was enabled
to behold one of these smaU feet in natura. Four of the toes were
bent under the sole of the foot, to which they were firmly pressed,
and -with which they appeared to be grown together ; the great toe
was alone left in ite normal stete. The fore-part of the foot had been
so compressed with sti-ong broad bandages, that instead of expanding
in length and breadth, it had shot upwards and formed a large lump
at the instep, where it made part and parcel of the leg, the lower
portion of the foot was scarcely fom- inches long, and an inch and a
half broad. The feet are always swathed in white linen or sUk,
bound round with sUk bandages and stuffed into pretty Uttle shoes
with very high heels.
To my astonishment these deformed beings faipped about, as if in
defiance of us broad-footed creatures, with tolerable ease, the only
difference in thefr gait being that they waddled like geese ; they even
ran up and down stafrs without the aid of a stick.
The only persons exempted from this Chinese method of im
proving thefr beauty are gfrls of the lowest class — that is, those who
live in boats; in famiUes of rank they are aU subject to the same
fate ; whUe in those of the middle classes, as a general rule, it is
Umited to the eldest daughter.
The worth of a bride is reckoned by the smallness of her feet.
This process of mutilation is not commenced immediately the chUd
is horn, but is deferred untU the end of the first, or sometimes even
thfrd year, nor is the foot after the operation forced into an fron shoe,
as many have affirmed, but merely firmly compressed with bandages.
The reUgion of the Chinese allows thera to have a nuraber of
wives, but in this respect they are far behind the Mahomedans. The

CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 101
richest have rarely more than from six to twelve, while poor persons
content themselves with one.
I -visited during my stay in Canton as many workshops of the
different artists as I could. My first visit was to the most celebrated
painters, and I must fi-ankly own, that the vi-»idness and splendour
of thefr colouring sti-uck me exceedingly. These quaUties are gen
eraUy ascribed to the rice paper on which they paint, and which is
of the greatest possible fineness, and as white as milk.
The paintings upon linen and ivory differ very Httle, as far as the
colouring is concerned, from those of our European artists, and the
difference is therefore the more -visible in their composition, and per
spective, which, with the Chinese, are yet in a state of infancy. This
is more especiaUy true of perspective. The figures and objects in
the back-ground rival in size and brilUancy those in front, while
rivers or seas fioat in the place which should be occupied by clouds.
On the other hand, the native artists can copy admirably,* and even
take likenesses. I saw some portraits so strikingly well drawn, and
admirably coloured, that first-rate Em-opean artists need not have
been ashamed to own them.
The Chinese possess marvellous skill in carving ivory, tortoise-
shell, and wood. Among the superior black lacquered articles,
especially -with flat or raised gold ornaments, I observed some, which
were worthy of a place in the raost valuable coUections of objects of
vertu. I saw some small work-tables worth at least 600 doUars
(£120). The baskets and carpets, made from the bamboo, are also
remarkably beautiful.
They are, however, far behind-hand in gold or silver work, which
is generaUy hea'vy and tasteless ; but then again, they have attained
great celebrity by their porcelain, which is reraarkable not only for
its size, but for its ti-ansparency. It is ti-ue that vases and other
vessels four feet high are neither light nor transparent; but cups and
other smaU objects can only be compared to glass for fineness and
fransparency. The colours on them are very vivid, but the drawings
very stiff and bad.
In the manufacture of sUks and crape shawls^ the Chinese aro
unsurpassable ; the latter especially, in beauty, tastefulness, and
thickness, are far preferable to those made in England or France.
The knowledge of music, on the other hand, is so Uttle developed,
that our good friends of the Celestial Empire might almost, in this re
spect, be compared to savages — not that they have no instruments, but
they do not know how to use them. They possess -vioUns, guitars, lutes
(all with strings or wfres), dulcimers, wind instruments, ordinary and
kettle-drums, and cymbals, but are neither skUled in composition, melody,
nor execution. They scratch, scrape, and thump upon thefr insfruments
in such a manner, as to produce the finest marrowbone-and-cleaver
Jdnd of music imaginable. During my excursions up and down the
Pearl sfream, I had frequent opportunities of hearing artistic perform
ances of this description on board the mandarin and fiower-boats.
In all kinds of deception the Chinese are great adepts, and de
cidedly more than a match for any Europeans. They have not the
* -When they copy a picture they di-vide it, like our own artists, into squares.
H 2

m A woman's journey eound the WOELD.
slightest sense of honour, and if you detect them, content themselves
with saying : " You are more clever or cunning than I." I was told
that when they have any live stock, such as calves or pigs, for sale,
they compel them, as they are disposed of by weight, to swallow
stones or large quantities of water. They also know how to blow out
and dress stale poultry, so as to raake it look quite fresh and plump.
But it is not the lower classes alone that indulge in cheating and
fraud ; these agreeable qualities are shared by the highest function
aries. It is a weU-known fact, for instance, that there are nowhere
so many pfrates as in the Chinese sea, especiaUy in the vicmity of
Canton; yet no measures are taken to punish or extirpate thera,
siraply because the raandarins do not think it beneath thefr dignity
to secretly share in the profits.
For exaraple, though the opium trade is forbidden, so much of this
drug is smuggled in every year, that it is said to exceed in value
that of aU the tea exported in the same period.* The merchants
enter into a private understanding with the officers and mandarins,
agreeing to give them a certain sura for every pikul, and it is no rare
occurrence for a mandarm to land whole cargoes under the protection
of his own flag.
In like raanner there is said to be on one of the islands near Hong-
Kong a very extensive manufactory of false money, which is allowed
to be carried on without any interruption, as it pays a tribute to the
pubUo functionaries and mandarins. A short time ago, a number of
pirate vessels that had ventured too near Canton, were shot into and
sunk, the crews lost, and thefr leader taken. The owners of the ves
sels petitioned the government to set the prisoners free, and theatened,
in case of a refusal, to make extensive disclosures. Every one was
con-vinced that a sum of money accompanied this threatening letter,
for shortly after it was reported that the prisoner had escaped.
I myself was 'witness of a circumstance in Canton, which caused
me great uneasiness, and was a pretty good proof of the helplessness
or apathy of the Chinese government.
On the 8th of August, Mr. Agassiz set out -with a friend, intending
to retum the same evening. I was left at home alone with the Chinese
servants. Mr. Agassiz did not return at the appointed time. At
last, about 1 o'clock the next morning, I suddenly heard voices in
loud conversation, and a violent knocking at the street door. I at
flrst supposed it to be Mr. Agassiz, and felt much surprise at the late
hour of his arrival, but I soon perceived that the disturbance was-
not in our house, but in that on the opposite side of the way. It is
easy to fall into an error of this description, as the houses are situated
quite close to each other, and windows are left open day and night.
I heard voices exclaim, " Get up,— dress ! " and then, " It is horrible —
shocking — good heavens ! — where did it happen ? " — I sprang quickly
out of bed and huddled on my gown, thinking either that a fire had
broken out in some house or other, or that the people had risen in
insurrection. -f
• A pilml of raw opium is worth about 600 dollars (£120).
. + I had more especially reason to fear this latter circumstance, as the people bad
p. Ten out that on the 12th or 13th of August, at the latest, there would be a revolution,
-n which all the Europeans -would lose their lives. My state of mind may easily be im-
tgined, left, as I -was, entirely alone -with the Chinese servants.

MUEDEE OF M. VAUCHEE. 103
Seeing a gentleman at one of the windows, I called and inqufred
of him what was the matter. He told me hm-ricdly that inteUigence
had j ust arrived that two of his friends who were proceeding to Kong-
Kong (^\'hampoa lay on the road) had been attecked by pfrates, and
that one was killed and tho other wounded. He then immediately
retired, so that I was unable to learn the name of the unfortunate
¦victim, and was left aU night a prey to the greatest anxiety lest it
should be Mr. Agassiz.
Fortunately, this at least was not the case, as Mr. Agassiz returned
at 5 o'clock in the morning. I then learned that this misfortune had
happened to Monsiem- Vauchee, a Swiss gentleman, who had passed
many an evening in our house. On the very day of his departure,
I met him at a neighbour's, where we had all been in the highest
spirite, singing songs and quartettes. At 9 o'clock he went on board
the boat, set off at 10, and a quarter of an hour afterwards, in the
midst of thousands of schampans and other craft, met his tragical end.
Monsieur Vauchee had intended to proceed to Hong-Kong, and
there embark on board a larger vessel lor Shanghai;* he took with
him Swiss watches to the value of 40,000 francs (£1,600), and, in
speaking to a friend, congratulated himself on the cautious manner
he had packed them up, without letting his servants know anything
about it. This, however, could not have been the case : and, as the
pirates have spies among the servante in every house, they were
unfortunately but too well acquainted with the circumstance.
During my stey in Canton, the house of a European was pulled
down by the populace, because it stood upon a piece of ground which,
though Europeans were allowed to occupy, they had not hitherto
buUt upon.
In this manner there was hardly a day that we did not hear of
acts of violence and mischief, so that we were in a continual state of
apprehension, more especially as the report of the near approach of a
revobition, in which aU the Europeans were to perish, was every
where bruited abdut. Many of the merchants had made every
preparation for instant flight, and muskets, pistols, and swords were
neatly arranged ready for use in most of the counting-houses. LuckUy,
the time fixed for the revolution passed over, without the populace
fulfilUng its threats.
The Chinese are cowardly in the highest degree ; they talk very
large when they are certain they have nothing to fear. For instance,
they are always ready to stone, or even kiU, a few defenceless indi
viduals, but if they have to fear any opposition, they are sure not; to
commence the attack. I beUeve that a dozen good European- soldiers
would put to ffight more than a hundred Chinese. I myself never
met -with a more dastardly, false, and, at the same time, cruel race, in
my life'; one proof of this is, that thefr greatest pleasure consists in
torturing animals.
In spite of the unfavourable disposition of the populace, I ventured
out a good deal. Herr von Carlo-witz was untiring in his kindness
to me, and accompanied me everywhere, exposing himself to raany
dangers on ray account, and bearing patiently the insults of tlie popu-
• One ofthe ports -which -were opened to the English,in 1812,

104 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
lace, whb followed at our heels, and loudly expressed thefr indignation
at the boldness of the European woman in thus appearing in pubUc.
Through his assistance, I saw more than any woman ever yet saw in
Chinai. Our first excursion was to the celebrated Temple of Honan, which
is said to be one of the finest in China.
This temple is surrounded by numerous out-buUdings, and a large
garden enclosed with a high waU. You first enter a large fore-com-t,
at the extremity of which a colossal gateway leads into the inner
courts. Under the archway of this portico are two War Gods, each
eighteen feet high, in menacing attitudes, and with horribly distorted
features. They are placed there to prevent evU spfrits from entering.
A second similar portico, under which are the four Celestial Kings,
leads into the inmost court, where the principal temple is situated.
The interior of the temple is 100 feet in length, and 100 feet in
breadth. The flat roof, from which hang a nuraber of glass chande
Hers, lamps, artiflcial flowers, and silk ribbons, is supported upon
several rows of wooden pUlars, whUe the midtitude of statues, altars,
flower-pots, censers, candelabra, candlesticks, and other omamente,
involuntarily suggest to the mind of the spectetor the decoration of
a Homan CathoUc church.
In the foreground are three altars, and behind these three statues,
representing the God Buddha in three different aspecte : the past,
the present, and the future. These flgures, which are in a sitting
posture, are of colossal dimensions.
We happened to visit the temple just as ser-vice was being per
formed. It was a kind of raass for the dead, which a raandarin had
ordered for his deceased wife. At the right and left altars were the
priests. Whose garraents and gesticulations also reserabled those of,
the Roman Catholics. At the middle altar was the mandarin, piously
engaged- in prayer, whUe two stood beside him, fanning him with
large fans.* He frequently kissed the ground, and every time he did
so, three wax tapers were presented to him, which he flrst elevated
in the afr, and then gave to one of the prieste, who placed them
before a statue of Buddha, but -without Ughting them. The music was
performed by three men, one of whom twanged a stringed instruraent,
whUe the second struck a raetel globe, and the thfrd played the flute.
Besides the principal temple there are various smaller ones, and
halls, aU adorned with stetues of gods. Especial honour is paid to
the twenty-four Gods of Pity, and to Kwanfootse, a demi-god of War.
Many of the forraer have four, six, and even eight arms. All these
di-vinities, Buddha himself not excepted, are made of wood, gilt over,
and painted with glazing colours.
In the Temple of Mercy we raet with an adventure which was
nearly attended with unpleasant consequences. A priest, or bonze,
handed us some Uttle tapers for us to Hght and offer to his divinity.
• This. costume was composed of a wide over-garment reaching to the knees, and fur
nished vrith flo-wing arms, and, underneath this, trowsers of -white silk. The upper
garment -tvas made of brocade of very vivid colours and an extraordinary pattern. .On
his breast be wore two birds as marks of his rank, anda necklace of precious stones. 'Ffis
shoes, composed of black silk, -were turned up into points at the extremities. On his
head be -wore a ooaical velvet hat with a gilt button.

THE TEMPLE OF HONAN. 105
Herr von Cai-lowitz and myself had already got the tapers in our
hands, and were quite willing to afford him tins gratiflcation, when
an American missionary, who was with us, tore the tapers from our
grasp, and indignantly returned them to the priest, saying, that what
we were about to do was an act of idolatry. The priest took the
matter very seriously, and, instantly closing the doors, called his
corapanions, who hurried in from all sides, and abused us in the most
-violent and vociferous fashion, pressing closer every instant. It was
with the greatest difficulty that we succeeded in fighting our way to
the door, and thus making our escape.
After this little fray, our guide conducted us to the dwelHng of the
Holy — Pigs ! * A beautiful stone haU is set apart for their use, which
hall these remarkable divinities fUl, in spite of aU the care bestowed
on them, with so horrible a stench, that it is irapossible to approach
them without holding one's nose. They are taken care of and fed
until death summons them away. When we visited the place there
were only a pair of these fortunate beings, and their number rarely
exceeds three couples.
I was better pleased with the residence of a bonze, which adjoined
this holy spot. It consisted of a sitting-room and bed-room merely,
but was very comfortably and elegantly fitted up. The walls of the
sitting-room were ornamented with carved wood-work, and the fur
niture was old-fashioned and pleasing : at the back of the apartment,
which was flagged, stood a small altar.
We here saw an opium-eater, lying sfretched ont upon a mat on
the floor. At his side was a cup of tea, with sorae fruit and a. Uttle
lamp, besides several pipes, with bowls that were smaller than a
thirable. On our entrance, he was just inhaling the intoxicating
smoke from one of thera. It is said that some of the Chinese opium-
smokers consume from twenty to thfrty grains a-day. As he was not
altogether unconscious of our presence, he managed to raise himself,
laid by his pipe, and dragged himself to a chair. His eyes were flxed
and staring, and his face deadly pale, presenting altogether a most
pitiable and -wretched spectacle.
Last of all, we were conducted to the garden, where the bonzes,
at thefr death, are burnt — a particular mark of distinction, as all
other people are interred. A simple raausoleura, about thfrty feet
square, and a few sraall private monuments, were aU that was to be
seen. None of them had any pretensions to elegance, being built of
the simplest masonry. In the former of these edifices are preserved
the bones of the persons who have been burnt, and among them are
also buried the rich Chinese, whose hefrs pay pretty handsomely to
obtain such au honour for them. At a little distance stands a small
tower, eight feet in diaraeter and eighteen in height, with a sinaU
pit, where a fire can be kindled, in the floor. Over this pit is an arm-
chafr, tc which the deceased bonze is fastened in full costume. Logs
and dry brushwood are disposed all round, and the whole is set fire
to, and the doors closed. In an hour they are again opened, the ashes
strewed around the tower, and the bones preserved until the period
for opening the mausoleum, which is only once every year.
• The reader must know that these animals are looked upon as particularly sacred.

106 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
A striking feature in the garden is this beautiful water -rose, or
lotus-flower {nymphcea nelumbo), which was originaUy a native of
China. The Chinese admire this fiower so much, that they have
ponds dug in their gardens expressly for it. It is about six inches
in diameter, and generally white — ^very rarely pale red. The seeds
resemble in size and taste those of the hazel ; and the roots, wheji
cooked, are said to taste like artichokes.
There are raore than a hundred bonzes who reside in the temple
of Honan. In their ordinary dress, they differ nothing from the
common Chinamen, the only means of recognising thein being by
thefr heads, which are entirely shaved. Neither these nor any other
prieste can boast, as I was told, of being in the least respected by the
people. Our second excm-sion was to the Half-way Pagoda, so called by the
English from its lying half way between Canton and Whampoa. We
went up the Pearl stream to it. It stands upon a small eminence
near a village, in the raidst of immense fields of rice, and is composed
of nine stories, 170 feet high. Its circumference is not very con
siderable, but nearly the sarae aU the way up, which gives it the look
of a tower. I was inforraed that this pagoda was formerly one of
the most celebrated in China, but it has long ceased to be used. The
interior was completely empty ; there were neither statues nor any
other ornaments ; nor were there any floors to prevent the eye from
seeing to the very top. On the outside, small balconies without rail
ings surround each story, to which access is gained by steep and
narrow flights of steirs. These projecting balconies produce a very
flne effect, being built of coloured bricks, very artistically laid, and
faced with variegated tiles. The bricks are placed in rows, witb thefr
points jutting obUquely outwards, so that the points project about
four inches over one another. At a distance, the work seems as if it
were half pierced through, and from the beautiful colours and flneness
of the tiles, a person might easily mistake the entfre mass for porce
lain. While we were viewing the pagoda, the whole population of the
¦viUage had assembled round about us, and as they behaved with
tolerable quietness, we determined on paying a visit to the village
itself. The houses, or rather huts, were small and built of brick, and
with the exception cf their flat roofs, presented nothing pecuUar.
The rooms did not possess a ceiling of their own, but were simply
covered by the roof ; the fioor was formed of earth closely pressed
together, and the internal waUs consisted partly of bamboo-mate.
What Uttle furniture there was, was exceedingly dirty. About the
middle of the vUlage was a small temple, -with a few lamps burning
dimly before the principal divinity.
What struck me most was the quantity of poultry, both in and
out of the huts, and we had to take the greatest care to avoid treading
on some of the young brood. The chickens are hatched, as they are
in Egypt, by artificial heat.
On our return from the -village to the pagoda, we saw two scham
pans run in shore, and a number of swarthy, half-naked, and mostly
armed men' jump out, and hasten through the fields of rice directly

THE IIERREN PAGODA. 107
to where we were. AVe set them down as pirates, and awaited the
upshot with a considerable degree of uneasiness. We knew that, if
we were right in our supposition, we were lost without hope ; for,
at the distance we were from Canton, and entirely surrounded by
Chinese, who would have been but too ready to lend them assistance,
it would have been doubly easy for pirates to dispatch us. AU idea
of escape or rescue was out of the question.
WhUe these thoughts were flashing across our minds, the men
kept approachingus, and at length thefr leader introduced himself
as the captein of a Siamese man-of-war. He informed us, in broken
English, that he had not long arrived with the Governor of Bangkok,
who was proceeding for the rest of the way to Pekin by land. Our
fears were gradually dispelled, and we even accepted the friendly
invitetion of the captain to run alongside his ship and view it, on our
return. He came in the boat with us, and took us on board, where
he showed us everything himself: the sight, however, was not a
pai-ticulai-ly attractive one. The crew looked very rough and wild ;
they were aU dressed in a most slovenly and dirty manner, so that it
was utterly impossible to distinguish the officers from the common
men. The vessel mounted twelve guns and sixty-eight hands.
The captain set before us Portuguese wine and English beer, and
the evening was far advanced before we reaehed home.
The longest trip that can be made from Canton is one twenty
mUes up the Pearl stream, and Mr. Agassiz was kind enough to pro
cure me this pleasure. He hfred a good boat, which ho furnished
abundantly -with eatables and drinkables, and invited a missionary,
who had made the trip several times, Herr von Carlowitz, and rayself.
The company of a missionary is as yet by far the safest escort in
China. These gentlemen speak the language ; they become gradually
acquainted with the people, and travel about, with hardly any obstacle
to speak of, all round the -vicinity of Canton.
About a week before we had decided on going, a few young gen
tlemen had endeavoured to raake the sarae excursion, but had been
flred upon frora one of the fortresses that lie on the banks of the river,
and compeUed to tum back half-way. When we approached the for
fress in question, the crew of our boat refused to proceed any further,
untu we had almost employed violence to make them do so. We also
were fired into, but fortunately not until we were more than half past
the fortress. Having escaped the danger, we pursued om- course
¦without further interruption, landed at several hamlets, visited tho
so-called Herren Pagoda, and took a good -view of everything that
was to be seen. The scenery all round was charming, and displayed
to our view large plains with rice, sugar, and tea-plantations, pic
turesque clumps of trees, lovely hills, and more elevated mountain
ranges rising in the distance. On the deoli-vities of the hills. We
beheld a number of graves, which were marked by smgle, upright
stones. The Herren Pagoda has three stories, -nith a pointed roof, and is
distinguished for ite external sculpture. It has no balconies outside,
but, instead of this, a triple wreatli of leaves round each story. In
the first and second story, to which access is gained by more than

108 A WOMAN S JOURNEY ROUND THE WOELD.
usually narrow stairs, are some small altars with carved idols. We
were not allowed to go into the thfrd story, under the excuse that
there was nothing to be seen there.
The villages we visited, resembled more or less, that we had seen
near the Half-way Pagoda.
During this joumey I was an eye-witness of the manner in which
the missionaries dispose of thefr religious fracte. The missionary
who had been kind enough to accorapany us, took this opportunity of
distributing araong the natives sorae seeds fhat should bring forth
good fruit. He had 500 tracts on board our boat, and every time
that another boat approached us, a circumstance that was of frequent
occurrence, he sfretched himself as far as possible over the side -with
half a dozen tracts in his hand, and made signs to the people to
approach and take them. If people did not obey his summons, we
rowed up to them, and the missionary gratifled them ¦with his tracts
in dozens, and went his way rejoicing, in anticipation of the good
which he did not doubt they wotdd effect.
Whenever we arrived at a vUlage, however, matters reached even
a higher pitch. The servant was obHged to carry whole packs of
tracts, which in a moment were distributed araong the crowd of
curious who had quickly gathered round us.
Every one took what was offered to hira, as it cost nothing, and
if he could not read it — the tracts were in Chinese — he had at least
got so rauch paper. The raissionary retumed home deUghted ; he
had disposed of his 500 copies. What glorious news for the Missionary
Society, and what a brUUant article for his reUgious paper, he no
doubt transmitted to Europe !
Six young EngUshmen made this same excursion up the Pearl
stream six months later, stopping at one of the viUages and mixing
with the people. Unhappily, however, they all fell victims to the
fanaticism of the Chinese : they were most barbarously murdered.
There was now no trip of any distance left but one round the
walls of the town of Canton,* properly so caUed. This, too, I was
shortly enabled to undertake through the kindness of our good friend
the missionary, who offered to come as guide to Herr von Carlowitz
and myself, under the condition, however, that I should put on male
attire. No woman had ever yet ventured to make this trip, and he
thought that I ought not to venture in my own dress ; I compUed
with his wish, therefore, and one fine moming early we set out.
For some distance our road lay through narrow Streets or aUeys
paved with large flags. In a small niche somewhere in the front of
every house, we saw Uttle altars from one to three feet high, before
which, as it was yet early, the night lamps were stUl burning; An
immense quantity of oil is unnecessarUy consumed in keeping up this
religious custom. The shops now began to be opened. They resemble
neat entrance halls, having no front wall. The goods were exposed
for sale either in large open boxes or on tables, behind which the
• The to-wn of Canton is nine miles in circumference. It is the residence ot,&
Viceroy, and divided by vfalls into the Chinese and the Tartar to-wn. The population of
the town itself is reckoned at 400,000, while it is calculated that 60,000 persons Uve in
the boats and schampans, and about 200,000 in the immediate -ricinity. The number a(
Eui-opeans settled here is about 200.

THE WALLS OF CANTON. IO9
shopkeepers sit and work. In one corner of the shop, a narrow
stafrcase leads up into the dwelUng-house above.
Here, as in Tm-kish towns, the sarae regulation is observed of
each ti-ade or calling having its especial street, so that in one nothing
but crockery and glass, in another silks, and so on, is to be seen. In
the physician's sti-eet are situated all the apothecaries' shops as well,
as the two professions ai-e united in one and the sarae person. The
provisions, whieh ai-e very tastUy arranged, have also their separate
streete. Between the houses are frequently small temples, not
differing the least, however, in style from the surrounding buildings :
the gods, too, merely occupy the ground floor, the upper stories being
inhabited by simple mortals.
The bustle in the streets was astonishing, especially in those set ,
apart for the sale of provisions. Women and gfrls of the lower classes
went about raaking thefr purchases, just as in Europe. They were
all unveUed, and sorae of them waddled like geese, in consequence of
thefr crippled feet, which, as I before observed, extends to all ranks.
The crowd was considerably increased by the number of porters, with
large baskete of provisions on their shoulders, running along, and
praising in a loud voice thefr stock in trade, or warning the people
to make way for them. At other times, the whole breadth of the
street would be taken up, and the busy stream of huraan beings
completely stopped by the Utter of some rich or noble personage
proceeding to his place of business. But worse than all were the
numerous porters we met at every step we took, carrying large
baskets of unsavoury raatter.
It is a weU known fact, that there is perhaps no nation on the face
of the earth equal to the Chinese in diUgence and industry, or that
profits by, and cultivates, as they do, every available inch of ground.
As, however, they have not rauch cattle, and consequently but Uttle
manure, they endeavour to supply the want of it by other means, and
hence thefr great care of anything that can serve as a substitute.
AU their smaU sfreets are buUt against the city waUs, so that we
had been going round them for some time before we were aware of
the fact. Mean-looking gates or wickets, which all foreigners are
strictly prohibited from passing, and which are shut in the evening,
lead into the interior of the town.
I was told that it has often happened for saUors, or other strangers,
during their walks, to penefrate through one of these entrances into
the interior of the town, and not discover their mistake until the
stones began flying about thefr ears.
After threading our way for at least two mUes through a succes
sion of narrow streets, we at length emerged into the open space,
where we obtained a full -\iew of the city waUs, and from the summit
of a small hill which was situated near them, a tolerably extensive
one over the town itself. The city walls are about sixty feet high,
and, for the most part, so overgrown with grass, creeping plante, and
underwood, that they resemble a magniflcent mass of living vegeta
tion. The town resembles a chaos of smaU houses, with now and
then a soUtary tree, but we saw neither flne streets nor squares, nor
any remarkable buildings, temples, or pagodas. A single pagoda,

110 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WOELD.
five stories high, reminded us of the peeuliar character of Chinese
architecture. Our road now lay over fertile erainences, varied with fields and
meadows in a high state of cultivation. Many of the hills are used
as cemeteries, and are dotted over with smaU mounds of earth, walled
in with stone fiags, or rough hewn stones two feet high, frequently
covered with inscriptions. Family tombs were also to be seen, dug
in the hill, and enclosed with stone walls of the shape of a horse-shoe.
All the entrances were built up with stone.
The Chinese do not, however, bury aU their dead : they have a
remarkable way of preserving thera in small stone chambers, consist
ing of two stone waUs and a roof, while the two other sides are left
. open. In these places, there are never more than from two to four
coffins, which are placed upon wooden benches two feet high : the
coffins themselves consist of massive trunks of trees hollowed out.
The villages through which we passed presented an animated
appearance, but appeared poor and du-ty. We were often obUged to
hold our noses in passing through the lanes and squares, and very
frequently would fain have closed our eyes as well, to avoid the dis
gusting sight of people covered with eruptions of the skin, tumom-s,
and boils.
In all the vUlages I saw poultry and swine in great nurabers, but
not more than three horses and a buffalo-cow ; both the horses and
the cow were of an extremely smaU breed.
When we had nearly reaohed the end of our excursion, we met a
funeral. A horrible kind of music gave us warning that something
extraordinary was approaching, and we had hardly time to look up
and step on one side, before the procession came flying past us at full
speed. First carae the worthy musicians, followed by a few Chinese,
next two empty Utters carried by porters, and then the hoUow trimk
of a tree, representing the coffin, hanging to a long pole, and carried
in a similar manner : last of all, were some prieste and a crowd of
people. The chief priest wore a kind of white* fool's cap, with three
points ; the other persons, who consisted of men alone, had a kind of
-white cloth bound round their head or arm.
I was lucky enough to be enabled to visit some of the summer
palaces and gardens of the nobility
The flnest of all was certainly that belonging to the Mandarin
Howqua. The house itself was tolerably spacious, one story high,
with very -ivide, splendid terraces. The -windows looked into the
inner courts, and the roof was like those in European buildings, only
much flatter. The sloping roofs, with their multitude of points and
pinnacles, with thefr little bells and variegated tiles, are only to be
found in the temples and country-houses, but never in the usual
residences. At the enfrance there were two painted gods : thesOj
aricording to the belief of the Cliinese, keep off e-vil spirits.
The front part of the house consisted of several reception rooms,
without front walls, and immediately adjoining them, on the ground
• The Chinese adopt -white for mourning.

UOWQUAS PAL.ACE A.ND G.VRDE.V. Ul
floor, elegant parterres ; and on the first floor magnificent ten-aces,
which were also decorated with flowers, and afforded a most splendid
view over the animated scene on the river, the enchanting scenery
around, and the mass of houses in the viUages situated about the walls
of Canton. Neat little cabinets surromidcd these rooms, from which they were
only separated by waUs that in many cases were adomed with the
most ai-tistio paintings, and through which the eye could easily pene
trate. The most remarkable of these waUs were those composed of
bamboos, which were as delicate as a veil, and plentifuUy ornamented
with painted flowers, or beautifuUy -written proverbs.
A numberless quantity of chafrs and a great many sofas were
ranged along the walls, from which I inferred that the Chinese are
as much accustomed to large assemblages as ourselves. 1 observed
some arm-chairs most skUfuUy cut out of a single piece of wood ;
others with seats of beautiful marble-slabs ; and others again of fine
colom-ed tiles or porcelain. Among various objects of European fur-
nitm-e, we saw some handsome mfrrors, clocks, vases, and tables of
Florentine mosaic, or variegated marble. There was also a most
exfraordinary coUection of lamps and lanterns hanging fi-om the
ceiUngs, and consisting of glass, transparent hom, and coloured gauze
or paper, ornamented with glass beads, fringe, and tassels. Nor was
there any scarcity of lamps on the walls, so that when the apart
ments are entfrely Ughted up, they must present a fairy-like appear
ance. As we had been fortunate enough to reach this house without
being stoned, we were emboldened to visit the Mandarin Howqua's
large pleasure-garden, situated on a branch of the Pearl stream, about
three-quarters of a mile from the house. We had, however, hardly
entered the branch of the river, before the crew wanted to turn back,
havmg observed a mandarin's junk, with all its fiags hoisted, a signal
that the owner himself was on board. They were unwUling to ven
ture on conveying us Europeans past the vessel, for fear they should
be punished, or stoned to death, along with om-selves, by the people.
We obliged them to proceed, passed close by the junk, and then
landed, and continued our excursion on foot. A large crowd of people
soon coUected in our rear, and began pushing the chUdren up against
us, in order to excite our rage ; but arming ourselves with patience, we
moved quietly on, and reached, without any accident, the garden
gates, which we instantly closed behind us.
The garden was in a perfect state of cultivation, but without the
least pretension to taste in its arrangement. On every side were
summer-houses, kiosks, and bridges, and all the paths and open spots
were Uned -with large and small flower-pote, in which were flowers
and dwarfed finUt-trees of every description.
The Chinese are certainly adepts in the art of diminishing the size
of, or rather crippHng their trees, many of which very often scarcely
attain a height of three feet. These dwarf trees are very prevalent
in their gardens, and preferred to the most magniflcent and shady
trees of a natural size. These Uliputian alleys can hardly be con
sidered in good taste, but it is most remarkable with what a large
quantity of beautiful fruit the tiny branches are laden.

112 A -woman's journey EOUND THE WORLD.
Besides these toys we also observed flgures of all descriptions,
representing ships, bfrds, flsh, pagodas, &c., cut out of foUage. In
the heads of the animals were stuck eggs, ¦with a black star painted
on them to represent the eyes.
There was also no scarcity of rocks, both single and in groups,
ornamented with flower-pots, as weU as Uttle flgures of men and
animals, which can be removed at pleasure, so as to form new com
binations, a kind of arauseraent of which the Chinese ladies are said
to be very fond. Another source of entertainraent, no less popular,
as weU araong the ladies as the gentiemen, consists in kite-flying,
and they wUl sit for hours looking at their paper monsters in the afr.
There is a large open spot set apart for this purpose in the garden of
every Chinese nobleman. We noticed an abundance of running water
and ponds, but we did not observe any foimtains.
As everything had passed oft' so weU, Hen- von Carlowitz pro
posed that we should go and see the garden of the Mandarin Pun-
tiqua, which I was very anxious to do, as the mandarin had ordered
a steam-boat to be buUt there by a Chinese, who had resided thfrteen
years in North Amerca, where he had studied.
The vessel was so far advanced that it was to be launched in afew
weeks. The artist showed us his work -with great satisfaction, and
was e^videntiy very much pleased at the praise we bestowed upon him
for it. He attached great importance to his knowledge of the Eng
Hsh language, for when Herr von Carlowitz addressed him in Chinese,
he answered in English, and requested us to continue the conversa
tion in that idiom. The machinery sfruck us as not being consfructed
with the usual degree of neatness for which the Chinese are famous,
and also appeared far too large for the smaU vessel for which it was
intended. Neither I nor my companion would have had the courage
to have gone in her on her experimental frip.
The mandarin who had the vessel buUt, had gone to Pekin to
obtain a " button " as his reward for being the flrst person to launch
a stearaer in the Chinese empfre. The buUder himself will, in all
probabiUty, be obUged to rest contented -with the consciousness of
his telent.
From the ship-yard we proceeded to the garden, which was very
large but greatly neglected. There were neither aUeys nor fruit
frees, rocks nor figures ; but, to make up for these, an insufferable
quantity of summer-houses, bridges, gaUeries, Httie temples, and
pagodas. The dwelling-house consisted of a large haU and a number of
small chambers. The -walls were ornamented, both inside and out,
with carved wood-work, and the roof abundantiy decorated with
points and pinnacles.
In the large halls plays and other entertainmente ai-e sometimes
enacted for the arauseraent of the ladies, who are universally confined
to their houses and gardens, which can only be visited by strangers
in thefr absence.*
• Noble Chinese ladies pass a much more sccludedlife than Eastem *woir.en. Tbey are
allowed to -risit one another very seldom, and tbat only in -weU-elosed llttel s. They have
neither public baths nor gardens in -which they can meet.

VISIT TO A TEA-FACTORY. 113
A number of peacocks, silver-pheasants, mandarin-ducks, and deer
are preserved in thefr gardens. In one corner was a small, gloomy
bamboo plantation, in which were some family graves ; and not far
off a small earthen mound had been raised, with a wooden tablet, on
which was a long poetical inscription in honour of the favourite snake
of the mandarin, which was buried there.
After duly inspecting evei-ything, we set off on our road home,
and reached mere in safety.
I was not so fortunate a few days later on -visiting a tea-factory. The
proprietor conducted me himself over the workshops, which consisted
of large halls, in which six hundred people, including a great many
old women and chUdren, were at work. My entrance occasioned a
Serfect revolt. Old and young rose from work, the elder portion
fting up the younger members of the community in ther arms and
pointmg at me with thefr fingers. The whole mass then pressed
close upon me and raised so horrible a cry that I began to be alarmed.
The proprietor and his overseer had a difficult task to keep off the
crowd, and begged me to content myself with a hasty glance at the
different objects, and then to quit the buUding as soon as possible.
In consequence of this I could only manage to observe that the
leaves ofthe plant are thrown for a few seconds into boUing water,
and then placed in flat fron pans, flxed slantingly in stone-work,
where they are slightiy roasted by a gentie heat, during which pro
cess they are continuaUy stfrred by hand. As soon as they begin to '
curl a Uttle, they are thrown upon large planks, and each single lea
is rolled together. This is effected with such rapidity, that it re
qufres a person's undi-vided attention to perceive that no more than
one leaf is roUed up at a time. After this, all the leaves are placed
once more in the pan. Black tea takes sorae tirae to roast, and the
green is frequently coloured with Prussian blue, an exceedingly
small quantity of which is added during the second roasting. Last
of all the tea is once more shaken out upon the large boards, in order
that it may be carefuUy inspected, and the leaves that are not en
tfrely closed are roUed over again.
Before I left, the proprietor conducted me into his house, and
freated me to a cup of tea prepared after the fashion in which it is
usually drunk by rich and noble Chinese. A smaU quantity was
placed in a China oup, boUing water poured upon it, and the cup then
closed with a tightly-fltting cover. In a few seconds the tea is then
drank and the leaves left at the bottom. The Chinese take neither
sugar, rum, nor mUk with thefr tea ; they say that anything added
to it, and even the stirring of it, causes it to lose its aroraa; in my cup,
however, a Httie sugar was put.
The tea-plant, which I saw in the plantations round about Canton,
was at most six feet high; it is not aUowed to grow any higher, and
is consequently cut at intervals. Its leaves are used from the third to
the eighth year ; and the plant is then cut down, in order that it may
send forth new shoote, or else it is rooted on't. There are three
gatherings in the year ; the flrst in March, the second in April, and
the thfrd, whieh lasts for three months, in May. The leaves of the
flrst gathering are so deUcate and fine that they raight easily be taken

114 A -WOM-VN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
for the blossom, which has no doubt given rise to the error that the
so-called " bloom or iraperial tea" is supposed not to consist of the
leaves but of the blossora itself.* This gathering is so hurtful to the
plant that it often perishes.
I was informed that the tea which comes from the neighbourhood
of Canton is the worst, and that from the -provinces soraewhat more
to the north the best. The tea manufacturers of Canton are said to
possess the art of giving tea that has been frequently used, or spoiled
by rain, the appearance of good tea. They dry and roast the leaves,
•colour them yellow -with powdered kurkunini, or Hght green with
Prussian blue, and then roll them tightly up. The price of the tea
sent to Europe varies frora flfteen to sixty dollars (£3 to £12) a
pikul, of 134 lb. English weight. The kind at sixty doUars does not
•find a very ready raarket ; the greater part of it is exported to Eng
land. The " bloora " is not met -with in trade.
I must mention a sight which I accidently saw, one evening, upon
the Pearl stream. It was, as I afterwards heard, a thanksgiving
festival in honour of the gods, by the o-wners of two junks that had
made a somewhat long sea voyage without being piUaged by pfrates,
or overtaken by the dangerous typhoon.
Two of the largest flower boate, splendidly iUuminated, were
floating gently down the stream. Three rows of lamps were hung round
the upper part of the vessels, forming perfect gaUeries of flre ; all the
cabins were full of chandeHers and lamps, and on the forecastle large
fires were buming out of which rockets darted at intervals with a
loud report, although they only attained the elevation of a few feet.
¦On the foremost vessel there was a large mast erected, and hung ¦with
myriads of coloured paper lamps up to its very top, forming a beau
tiful pyramid. Two boate, abundantly furnished with torches and
provided with boisterous music, preceded these two flery masses.
Slowly did they float through the darkness of the night, appearing
like the work of fafry hands. Soraetiraes they stopped, when high
flames, fed with holy perfumed paper, ffickered upwards to the sky.
Perfumed paper, which must be bought from the priests, is burnt
at every opportunity, and very frequently beforehand, after every
prayer. From the trade in this paper the greater portion of the
priests' income is derived.
On several occasions, accompanied by Herr von Carlowitz, I took
short walks in the streets near the factory. I found the greater
pleasure in exaraining the beautiful articles of Chinese raanufacture,
which I could here do at ray leisure, as the shops were not so open
as those I saw during ray excursion round the waUs of Canton, but
had doors and windows Uke our own, so that I could walk in and be
protected from the pressure of the crowd. The streets, also, in this '
quarter were somewhat broader, weU paved, and protected with mate
or planks to keep off the burning heat of the sun.
In the neighbom-hood of the factoiy, namely in Fousch-an, where
¦most of the manufactories are situated, a great many places may be
• The leaves of this gathering are plucked with the gi-eatest care by children and
yo'ing people, who are provided with gloves and are bound to pick evei-y leaf aepa-
latoly.

DEPAETUEE FEOM CANTON. 1)5
reached by water, as tho streets, like those in Venice, ore intersected
by canals. This quarter of Canton, however, is not tho handsomest,
because all the wai-ehouses arc erected on tho sides of the canals, where
the different workmen have also taken up their residence in miserable
hute that, built half upon the ground and half upon worm-eaten pUes,
sti-etch far out over the water.
I had now been altogether, from July 13th to August 20th, five
weeks in Canton. The season was the hottest in the whole year, and
the heat was really insupportable. In the house, the glass rose as high
as 94i°, and out of doors, in the shade, as high as 99". To render this
state of things bearable, the inhabitants use, besides the punkas in the
rooms, wicker-work made of bamboo. This wicker-work is placed
before the windows and doors, or over those portions of the roofs
under which the workshops are situated. Even whole walls aro
formed of it, standing about eight or ten feet from the real ones, and
provided with enti-ances, -window-openings, and roofs. The houses
are most effectually disguised by it.
On my retum to Hong-Kong, I again set out on board a junk, but
not so fearlessly as the first time; the unhappy end of Monsiem-
Vauchee was still fresh in my memory. I took the precaution of
packing up the few clothes and linen I had in the presence of the
servants, that they might be convinced that any trouble the pfrates
might give themselves on my account would be thrown away.
On the evening of the 20th of August I bade Canton, and all my
friends there, farewell; and at 9 o'clock I was once again fioating
down the Sikiang, or JPearl stream, famous for the deeds of horror
perpefrated on it.

CHAPTER IX.
TKE EAST INDIESr-SINGAFOEE.
AoHTVAi, IN Hong-Kong— Thb English Stbameu— Singapoile Plantations— A Hunt.
ING Pam-y in the Jungle — ^A Cuihesk Fdneual — The Feast op Lamteenb —
Temperatxjee and Climate.
The passage from Canton to Hong-Kong was accompHshed 'without
any cfrcumstance worthy of notice, save the time it took, in conse
quence of the prevalence of confrary winds the whole way. We were,
it is true, woke up the flrst mght by the report of guns ; but I expeet
they were not flred at us, as we were not molested. My travelling
companions, the Chinese, also behaved themselves on this occasion
with the greatest poUteness and decoram ; and, had I been enabled to
look into the future, I would -wiUingly have given up the EngUsh
steamer aud pursued my joumey as tar as Singapore on board a junk.
But as this was impossible, I availed myself of the EngHsh steamer,
"Pekin," of 450 horse-power. Captain Fronson commander, which leaves
for Calcutta every month.
As the fares are most exorbitant,* I was advised to teke a thfrd-
class ticket, and hfre a cabin frora one of the engineers or petty
officers ; I was greatly pleased with the notion, and hastened to carry
it out. My astonishment, however, may be imagined when, on paying
my fare, I was told that the thfrd-class passengers were not respect>-
able, that they were obHged to sleep upon deck, and that the moon was
exceedingly dangerous, &c. It was in vain that I replied I was the
best judge of my own actions ; I was obHged, unless I chose to remain
behind, to pay for one of the second places. This certainly gave me
a very curious idea of EngUsh Hberty.
On the 25th of August, at 1 o'clock, p.m., I went on board. On
reaching the vessel I found no servant in the second places, and was
obliged to ask a saUor to teke my luggage into the cabin. This latter
was certainly anything but comfortable. The furniture was of the
-uost comraon description, the teble was covered with stains and dfrt,
and the whole place was one scene of confusion. I inqufred for the
sleeping cabin, and found there was but one for both sexes. I was told
to apply to one of the officials, who would no doubt aUow me to sleep
somewhere else. I did so, and ohteined a neat little cabin in conse
quence, and the steward was kind enough to propose that I should
-take my meals with his wife. I did not, however, choose to accept
the offer ; I paid dearly enough. Heaven knows, and did not choose
to accept everything as a favour. Besides, this was the flrst English
steamer I had ever been on board, and I was curious to learn how
second-class passengers were freated.
• 173 dollars the chief cabin, 117 the second (£34 12». and .<:23 Ss.)

the ENGLISH STEAMER TO SINGAPORE. 117
The company at our table consisted not only of the passengers, of
whom there were three besides myself, but of the cooks and waiters
of the first-class places, as well as of the butcher ; or, in a word, of
every one of the attendants who chose to take " pot-luck" with us. As
for any etiquette in the article of costume, that was entfrely out of
the question. Sometimes one of the company would appear without
either coat or jacket ; the butcher was generaUy obUvious of his shoes
and stockings ; and it was reaUy necessary to be endowed with c
ravenous appetite to be enabled to eat anything with such a set.
The biU of fare was certainly adapted to the crew and their cos
tume, but decidedly not to the passengers, who had to pay thfrteen
doUars (£2 12g.) a day each for provisions.
The teble-cloth was fuU of stains, and, in Heu of a napkin, each
guest was at Uberty to use his handkerchief. The knives and forks
had white and black horn handles, -with notched blades, and broken
prongs. On the first day we had no spoons at aU ; on the second we
had one between us, and this one was placed on the teble in soHtary
grandeur during the entfre voyage. There were only two glasses,
and those of the most ordinai-y description, which cfrculated from
mouth to mouth ; as I was a female, instead of my turn of the glasses,
I had, as a pecuUar mark of distinction, an old tea-cup with the
handle knocked off.
The head cook, who did the honours, pleaded in excuse for all this
discomfort, that they happened this voyage to be short of servants.
This struck me as reaUy a Uttle too naive, for when I paid my money
I paid for what I ought to have then, and not for what I might have
another time.
As I said before, the provisions were execrable ; the remnants of
the flrst cabin were sent to us poor -wretches. Two or tiiree different
things would very often He side by side in the most friendly and
brotherly manner upon one dish« even although thefr character was
-widely different; that was looked upon as a matter of no iraport,
which was also the case as to whether the things came to table hot
or cold. On one occasion, during tea, the head cook was in unusually good
humour, and remarked, " I spare no possible pains to pro-vide for you.
I hope you want for nothing." Two of the passengers, EngHshmen,
repHed, " No, that 's true!" The thfrd, who was a Portuguese, did
not understand the importance of the assertion. As a native of Ger
many, not possessing tiie pafriotic feeling of an EngHsh subject in the
matter, 1 should ha-ve replied very differently had I not been a
woman, and if, by so replying, I could have effected a change for the
better. The only Ught we had was from a piece of tallow candle, that
often went out by eight o'clock. We were then under the necessity
of sitting in the dark or going to bed.
In the morning the cabin served as a barber's shop, and in the
afternoon as a dormitory, where the cooks and servants, who were
half dead with sleep, used to come and slumber on the benches.
In order to render us stUl more comfortable, one of the officers
pitched upon our cabin as quarters for two young puppies, who did
I 2

118 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
nothing but keep up one continued howl ; he would not have dared
to put them in the saUors' cabin, because the latter would have kicked
them out -without farther ceremony.
My description wUl, in all probabiUty, be considered exaggerated,
especially as there is an old opinion that the EngUsh are, above aU.
other people, justly celebrated for their comfort and cleanliness. I
can, however, assm-e ray readers that I have spoken notlung but the
truth ; and I -will even add that, although I have made many voyages
on board steam-ships, and always paid second fare, never did I pay
so high a price for such wretched and detestable treatment. In all
my life 1 was never so cheated. The only cfrcumstance on board the
ship to which I can refer with pleasure was the conduct of the officers,
who were, without exception, obUging and poUte.
I was very much struck with the remarkable degree of patience
exhibited by my fellow-passengers. I should like to know what an
EngUshman, who has always got the words "comfort" and "com
fortable" at the top of his tongue, would say, if he were treated in
this manner on board a steamer belonging to any other nation ?
For the flrst few days of our voyage we saw no laud, and it was
not untu the 28th of August that we caught sight of the rocky coast
of Cochin China. During the whole of the 29th we steered close
along the coast, but could see no signs of either human beings or
habitations, the only objects -visible being richly wooded mountain-
ranges ; in the evening, nswever, we beheld several flres, which might
have been mistaken for the signals from lighthouses, and proved that
the country was not quite uninhabited.
Dm-ing the following day we only saw a large soUtary rock
called " The Shoe." It struck me as being exactly like the head of a
shepherd's dog.
On the 2nd of September we neared Malacca. Skfrting the coast
are tolerably high, well-wooded mountain-ranges, infested, according
to all accounts, by numerous tigers, that render aU ti-aveUing very
dangerous. On the Srd of September we ran into the port of Singapore ; but
it was so late in the evening, that we could not disembark.
On the following morning I paid a -visit to the firm of Behu
and Meyer, to whom I had letters of introduction. Madame Behu was
the first German lady I had met since my departure from Hamburgh.
I cannot say how deUghted I was at forming her acquaintance. I
was once more able to give free vent to my feeUngs in my own native
tongue. Madame Behu would not hear of my lodging in an hotel ;
I was immediately installed as a member of her own araiable family.
My original plan was to have remained but a short period in
Singapore, and then proceed in a sailing vessel to Calcutta, as I had
a perfect horror of English steamers, and as I had been told that
opportimities continually presented themselves. I waited, however,
week after week in vain, untU, in spite of my unwillingness, I was
obHged to embark in a comfortable English steamer at last.*
The Europeans lead pretty much the same kind of Ufe at Singapore
• These steamers carry the mails, and make tbe voyage from Canton to Calcutta once
a month, touching at Singapore on their way.

SINGAPORE, 119
that they do at Canton, with this difference, however, that the mer
chants reside witii their famUies in tho counfry, and come to town
every mornhig for business. Each family is obUged to keep a large
stefl' of servants, and the lady of tho house meddles very Uttle in
domestic matters, as these are generaUy altogether entrusted to the
major-domo. The servants ai-e Chinese, with the exception of the seis (coach
men or grooms), who ai-o Bengalese. Every spring, whole shiploads
of Chinese boys, fi-om ten to fifteen years old, come over here. They
are generally so poor that they cannot pay thefr passage. When this
is the case, the captain brings them over on his own account, and is
paid beforehand, by the person engaging them, tiieir wages for the
first yeai-. These young people live very economically, and when
they have a little inoney, return generally to thefr native country,
though many hfre themselves as journeymen, and stop altogether.
The Island of Singapore has a population of 55,000 souls, 40,000
of whom are Chinese, lO.OOO Malays, or natives, and 160 Europeans.
The number of women is said to be very small, in consequence of the
immigrants fi-om China and India consisting only of men and boys.
The town of Singapore and its envfrons contain upwai-ds of 20,000
inhabitants. The streets struck rae as being broad and airy, but the
houses ai-e not handsome. They ai-e only one story high; and, from
the fact of the roofs being placed directly above the windows, appear
as if they were crushed. On account of the continual heat, there is
no glass in any of the windows, but its place is suppHed by sun-blinds.
Every article of merchandise has here, as at Canton, if not its own
peculiar street, at least its own side of the street. The building in
which meat and vegetables are sold, is a fine handsome edifice resem
bUng a temple.
As a natural result of the nuraber of persons of different nations
congregated upon this island, there are various temples, none of which
are worthy of notice, however, with the exception of that belonging
to the Chmese. It is formed like an ordinary house, but the roof is
ornamented in the usual Chinese fashion to rather too great an ex
tent. It is loaded with points and pinnacles, with circles and curves
without end, aU of which are forraed of coloured tiles or porcelain,
and decorated with an infinity of arabesques, flowers, dragons, and
other monsters. Over the principal entrance are smaU stone bas-
reliefs, and both the exterior and interior of the building can boast of
a profusion of carved wood-work richly gilt.
Sorae fruit and biscuits of various descriptions, -with a very small
quantity of boUed rice, were placed upon the altar of the Goddess of
Mercy. These are renewed every evening, and whatever the goddess
may leave is the perquisite of the bonzes. On the same altar lay pretty
Httle wooden counters cut in an oval shape, which the Chinese toss up
in the afr ; it is held to be a sign of Ul-luek if they fall upon the
reverse side, but if they fall upon the other, this is beUeved to betoken
good fortune. The worthy people are in the habit of tossing them
np until they fall as desfred.
Another manner of learning the decrees of fate consists in placing
a number of tiUn wooden sticks iu a basin, and then shaking them

130 A woman's journey round THE WOELD.
untu one falls out. Each of these sticks is inscribed witii a certain
number, corresponding -vrith a sentence in a book of proverbs. This
temple was more frequented by the people than those in Canton.
The counters and sticks seemed to exercise great influence over the
congregation, for it was only round them that they gathered.
There is nothing further to be seen in the town, but the envfrons,
or rather the whole island, offers the most enchanting sight. The
view cannot certainly be called magnificent or grand, since one great
feature necessary to give it this character, namely, mountains, is
entirely wanting. The highest hUl, on whieh the govemor's house
and the telegraph are situated, is scarcely more than 200 feet high,
but the luxuriant verdaney, the neat houses of the Europeans in the
midst of beautifiil gardens, the plantations of the most precious spices,
the elegant areca and feathered pahns, ¦with thefr sUm steras shooting
up to a height of a hundred feet, and spreading out into the thick
feather-Uke tuft of fresh green, by whieh they are distinguished from
every other kind of palms, and, lastly, the jungle in the back-ground,
compose a most beautiful landscape, and which appears doubly lovely
to a person like myself, just escaped frora that prison ycleped Canton,
or from the dreary scenery about the town of Victoria.
The whole island is intersected ¦with exoeUent roads, of which
those skfrting the sea-shore are the most frequented, and where
handsome carriages, and horses from New Holland, and even from
England,* ai-e to be seen. Besides the European carriages, there are
also certain vehicles of home manufacture called palanquins, which
are altogether closed and surrounded on all sides with jalousies.
Generally, there is but one horse, at the side of which both the
coachman and footman run on foot. I could not help expressing my
indignation af the barbarity of this custom, when I was informed
that the residente had wanted to aboHsh it, but that the servants had
protested against it, and begged to be aUowed to mn beside the
carriage rather than sit or stand upon it. They cUng to the horse or
vehicle, and are thus dragged along with it.
Hardly a day passed that we did not drive out. Twice a week
a very flne miUtary band used to play on the esplanade close to the
sea, and the whole world of fashionables would either walk or drive
to -the place to hear the music. The carriages were ranged several
rows deep, and surrounded by young beaux on foot and horseback ;
any one might have been excused for imagining himself in an Euro
pean city. As for myself, it gave me more pleasure to visit a planta
tion, or sorae other place of the kind, than to stop and look on what
I had so often witnessed in Europe, f
I frequently used to visit the plantations of nutmegs and cloves,
and refresh myself with tiiefr balsamic fragrance. The nutmeg-tree
is about the size of a fine apricot-bush, and is covered from top to
bottom with thick foUage ; the branches grow very low down the
stem, and the leaves shine as if they were varnished. The fruit is
exactly similar to an apricot covered with yello-wish-brown spots.
• Horses cannot be bred bere ; tbey have all to be imported.
+ The East India Company, to ¦which the island belongs, have a govemor and English
troops here.

SING-APOEE. 121
When ripe it hurste, exposing to ^-iew a round kernel about the size
of a nut, enclosed in a kind ot net-work of a flne deep red : this net
work is known as mace. It is carefully separated from the nutmeg
itself, and dried in the shade. WhUe undergoing this process, it
is frequently sprinkled with sea-water, to prevent ite onginal tint
turning blacic instead of j'cllow. In addition to this net-work, the
nutmeg is covered -with a thin, soft rind. The nutmeg itself is also
dried, then smoke-dried a Uttle, and afterwards, to prevent its faim-
iiig mouldy, dipped several times in sea-water, containing a weak
solution of Ume.
The clove-free is somewhat smaUer, and cannot boast of such
luxuriant foHage, or such flne large leaves as the nutmeg-tree. The
cloves are the buds of the free gathered before they have had time
to blossom. They are flrst smoked, and then laid for a short time m
the sun.
Another kind of spice is the areca-nut, which hangs under the
cro-wn of the palm of the same narae, in groups containing frora ten
to twenty nuts each. It is somewhat larger than a nutmeg, and its
outer sheU is of so bright a colour, that it resembles the gUt nuts
which are hung upon tiie Christmas-frees in Germany. The kernel is
almost the same colour as the nutmeg, but it has no net-work : it is
dried in the shade.
The Chinese and natives of the place chew this nut with betel-leaf
and calcined mussel-shells. They strew the leaf with a small quan
tity of the mussel-powder, to which they add a very small piece of
the nut, and make the whole into a Httle packet, which they put into
their mouth. When they chew tobacco at the same time, the saUva
becomes as red as blood, and their mouths, when open, loot like little
furnaces, especially if, as is frequently the case with the Chinese, the
person has his teeth dyed and filed. The first time I saw a case of
the kind I was very frightened : I thought the poor feUow had sus
tained some serious injury, and that his mouth was fuU of blood.
I also visited a sago manufactory. The nnprepared sago is im
ported from the neighbouring island of Borromeo, and consists of the
pith of a short, thick kind of palm. The tree is out do-wn when it is
seven years old, split up from top to bottom, and the pith, of which
there is always a large quantity, exfracted ; it is then freed from the
fibres, pressed in large frames, and dried at the fire or in the sun.
At this period it has still a yello-wish tinge. The foUowing is the
manner in which it is grained : The meal or pith is steeped in water
for several days, untU it is completely blanched ; it is then once more
dried by the fire or in the sun, and passed under a large wooden roller,
and through a hafr sieve. When it has become white and fine, it is
placed in a kind of linen -winnowing-fan, which is kept damp in a
pecuHar manner. The workman takes a mouthful of water, and
spurts it out like fine rain over the fan, in which the meal is alter
nately shaken and moistened in the manner just mentioned, until it
assumes the shape of smaU globules, whieh are constantly stfrred
round in large, flat pans until they are dried, when tbey are passed
through a second sieve, not quite so fine as the first, and the larger
globides separated frem the rest.

128 A WOMAN'S JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD.
The building in which the process takes place is a large shed
without walls, its roof being supported upon the trunks of trees.
I was indebted to the kindness of the Messrs. Behu and Meyer for
a very interesting excursion into the jungle. The gentlemen, four in
number, all weU provided with fowUng-pieces, having deterrained to
start a tiger, besides which they were obUged to be prepared for
bears, wild boars, and large serpents. We drove as far as the river
Gallon, where we found two boats in readiness for us, but, before
entering them, paid a visit to a sugar-reflning establishment situated
upon the banks of the river.
The sugar-cane was piled up in stacks before the building, but
there had only been sufficient for a day's consumption, as all that
reraained would have tumed sour from the excessive heat. The cane
is flrst passed under metal cylinders, which press out all the juice ;
this runs into large cauldrons, in which it is boUed and then allowed
to cool. It is afterwards placed in earthen jars, where it becomes
completely dry
The buildings resembled those I have described when speaking of
the preparation of sago.
After we had -witnessed the process of sugar-baking, we entered
the boate, and proceeded up the stream. We were soon in the midst
of the virgin forests, and experienced, at every sfroke of the oars,
greater difficulty in forcing our passage, on account of the numerous
trunks of trees both in and over the sfream. We were frequently
obUged to land and lift the boats over these trees, or else lie flat down,
and thus pass under them as so many bridges. All kinds of brush
wood, fuU of thorns and brambles, hung down over our heads, and
even some gigantic leaves proved a serious obstacle to us. These
leaves belonged to a sort of palm caUed the Mungkuang. Near the
stem they are flve inches broad, but thefr length is about twelve feet,
and as the stream is scarcely more than nine feet wide, they reached
right across it.
The natural beauty of the scene was so great, ho-wever, that these
occasional obstructions, so far from diminishing, actuaUy heightened
the charm of the whole. The forest was full of the most luxuriant
underwood, creepers, palms, and fern plants; the latter, in many
instances sixteen feet high, proved a no less effectual screen against
the buming rays of the sun than did the pahns and other frees.
My previous satisfaction was greatly augmented on seeing several
apes skipping about on the highest branches of the trees, whUe others
were heard chattering in our immediate vicinity. This was the first
time I had seen these animals in a state of perfect freedom, and I
secretly felt very much delighted that the gentiemen -with me did not
succeed in shooting any of the mischievous Uttle creatures : they
brought down, however, a few splendid lories (a sort of smaU parrot
of the most beautiful plumage) and some squirrels. But our attention
was soon attracted by a much more serious object. We remarked in
the branches of one of the trees a dark body, which, on nearer inspec
tion, we found to be that of a lai-ge serpent, lying coiled up, and
waiting, probably, to dart upon its prey. We ventured pretty near,
lint it remained quite motionless 'without turning its eyes from us.

SING.APORE— EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. MS
and Uttle thinking how near its death was. One of the gentiemen
fired, and hit it in the side. As quick as Hghtning, and with the
greatest fury, it darted from the free, but reraained fast, with its tail
entangled in a bough. It kept raaking springs at us, with its forked
tongue exposed to view, but all in vain, as we kept at a respectable
distence. A few more shots put an end to its existence, and we then
puUed up under the bough on which it was hanging. One of the
boatraen, a Malay, raade a small noose of strong, tough grass, which
he threw round the head of the serpent, and thus dragged it into the
boat. He also told us that we should be sure to flnd a second not far
off, as serpents of this kind always go in pairs, and, true enough, the
gentiemen in the other boat had already shot the second, which was
also coUed up on the branch of a large tree.
These serpente were of a dark green colour, with beautiful yellow
streaks, and about twelve feet in length. I was told that they
belonged to the boa species.
After having proceeded eight English mUes in four hours, we left the
boate, and foUowing a narrow footpath, soon reached a number of plots
of ground, cleared from trees, and planted with pepper and garabir.
The pepper-free is a taU bush-like plant, that, when trained and
supported with props, wiU attain a height varying frora fifteen to
eighteen feet. 'The pepper grows in small, grape-like bunches, which
are first red, then green, and lastly, nearly black. The plant begins,
to bear in the second year.
White pepper is not a natural production, but is obtained by
dipping the black pepper several times in sea-water : this causes it
to lose its colour, and become a dirty white. The price of a pikul of
white pepper is six dollars (24s.), whereas that of a pikul of black is
only three dollars (12s.).
The greatest height attained by the gambir plant is eight feet.
The leaves alone are used in trade : they are first stripped off the
stalk, and then boUed down in large coppers. The thick juice is
placed in wide wooden vessels, and dried in the sun ; it is then cut
into sUps three inches long and packed up. Gambir is an article that
is very useful in dyeing, and hence is frequently exported to Europe.
Pepper plantations are always to be found near a plantation of the
gambir plant, as the former are always manured with the boiled
leaves of the latter.
Although all the work on the plantations, as well as every other
description of labour at Singapore, is performed by free labourers, I
was told that it cost less than if it were done by slaves. The wages
here are very trifling indeed ; a common labourer receives three dol
lars a month, without either board or lodging ; and yet with this, he,
is enabled not only to s-ubsist himself, but to maintain a family. _ Thefr
huts, which are composed of foliage, they buUd theraselves; thefr food
consists of smaU flsh, roots, and a few vegetables. Nor is their apparel
more expensive ; for, beyond the immediate vicinity of the town, and
where all the plantations are situated, the children go about entirely
naked, whUe the men wear nothing more than a small apron about a
hand's-breadth wide, and fastened between the legs : the women are
the only persons dressed with anything like propriety.

IM A WOMANS JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD.
The plantations that we now saw, and whieh we reached about
10 o'clock, were cultivated by Chinese. In addition to thefr huts of
leaves, they had erected a small temple, where they invited us to
alight. We immediately spread out upon the altar some refresh-
mente, whieh Madame Behu, like a good housewife, had given us ;
but, instead of imitating the Chinese, and sacriflcing them to the
gods, we were wicked enough to devour them ravenously ourselves.
AVhen we had satisfled our hunger, we skinned the serpent and
then made a present of it to the Chinese ; but they gave us to under
stand that they would not touch it, at which I was greatly surprised,
since they will generally eat anything. I was afterwards con-vinced
that this was all pretence, for on retuming some hours later irom
our hunting excursion and going into one of their huts, we found
them all seated round a large dish in which were pieces of roast meat
of the pecuHar round shape ofthe serpent. They wanted to hide the
dish in a great hurry, but I entered very quickly and gave them
some money to be allowed to taste it. I found the flesh particularly
tender and delicate, even more tender than that of a chicken.
But I ha-ve quite forgotten to describe our hunting excursion. We
asked the labourers if they could not put us on the track of a tiger ;
they described to us a part of the wood where one was reported to
have taken up his abode a few days previously, and we imraediately
set off. We had great diffieulfy in forcing our way through the
forest, having, at everj' instant, to claraber over prostrate -frees, creep
through brambles or cross over swamps, but we had, at all evente,
the satisfaction of progressing, which we certainly should not have
had in the forests of Brazil, where such an undertaking would have
been irapracticable. It is true that there were creepers and orchids,
but not in such numbers as in Brazil, and the trees, too, stand
far wider apart. We saw some splendid speciraens, towering to a
height of above a hundred feet. The objects which interested us
most were the ebony and kolim trees. The timber of the first is of
two kinds, a layer of brownish-yellow surrounding the inner stem,
which composes that portion especially known as ebony.
The kolim-tree diffuses an excessively sfrong odour, similar to that
of onions, indicating its site at some distance off. The fruit tastes
extremely like onions, and is very often used by the common people,
but its odour and taste are too strong for Europeans. I merely
just touched a piece of fresh rind, and my hands smelt of it the
next morning.
We beat about the forest for some hours without meeting the game
of which we were in search. We once thought that we had found
the lair, but we soon found that we were mistaken. One of the
gentlemen, too, affirmed that he heard the growl of a bear ; it must,
however, have been a very gentle growl, as no one else heard it,
although we were all close together.
We returned home without any further addition to our stock of
game, but highly dehghted with our agreeable trip.
Although Singapore is a small island, and all means have been
used and rewards offered for the extirpation of the tigers, they have
failed. Government gives a premium of a hundred dollars, and the

SINGAPORE — A CHINESE FUNEEAL. l.Jlj
Society of Singapore Merchants a similar sum for evei-y tiger killed.
Besides this, the valuable skin belongs to the fortunate hunter, and
even the flesh is worth something, as it is eagerly bought by the
Chinese for eating. The tigers, however, swim over from the neigh -
bouring peninsula of Malacca, which is only separated from Singapore
by a very narrow channel, and hence it wUl be impossible to eradicate
them entfrely.
The varieties of fruit found at Singapore are very numerous and
beautiful. Among the best may be reckoned the mangostan, which is
said to grow only here aud in Java. It is as big as a raiddUng-sized
apple. The rind is a deep brown on the outside and scarlet inside,
and the fruit itself is white, and divided naturally into four or flve
sections : it ahnost raelts in the mouth, and has an exquisite flavour.
The pine-apples are much more juicy, sweeter, and considerably
larger than those at Canton ; I saw sorae which must have weighed
about four pounds. Whole flelds are planted with them, and when
they arrive at full maturity, three or four hundred may bo bought for
a dollar. They are often eaten with salt. There is also another
kind of fruit, " sauersop," which also often weighs several pounds, and
is green outside aud -White or pale yellow inside. It very much
resembles strawberries in taste, and, like thera, is eaten with wine
and sugar. The gumaloh is divided into several distinct slices, and
reserables a pale yellow orange, but is not so sweet and jmcy ;
many people, however, prefer it ; it is at least flve times as large as
an orange. In my opinion, however, the palm of excellence is 'borne
away by the " custard apple," whieh is covered with small green
scales.* The inside, which is fuU of black pips, is very white, as soft
as butter, and of the most exquisite flavour. It is eaten with the
help of smaU spoons.
A few days before my departure from Singapore, I had an oppor
tunity of witnessing the burial of a Chinese in easy circumstances.
The procession passed our house, and in spite of a temperature of
113° Fah., I went with it to the grave, which was three or four miles
distant, and was too much interested in the ceremony to leave until
it was concluded, although it lasted nearly two hours.
At the head of the procession was a priest, and at his side a Chinese
with a lantern two feet high, covered with white cambric. Then
carae two rausicians, one of whom beat a sraaU drura at intervals, and
the other played the cymbals. These persons were followed by the
coffln, with a servant holding a large open parasol over that part of it
on which the head of the deceased lay. Alongside walked the eldest
son or the nearest male relative, carrying a small white flag, and
with his hair hanging in disorder over his shoulders. The relations
were all dressed in the' deepest mourning — that is to say, entirely in
wliite; the men had even got white caps on, and the women were so
enveloped in white cloths that it was impossible to see so much as
their faces. The friends and attendants, who foUowed the coffin in
small groups -without order or regularity, had all got a white strip
of cambric bound round their head, thefr waist, or their ai-m. As
* The mangostan is unanimously pronounced tbe finest fruit in tbe world.

186 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
soon as it was remarked that I had joined the procession, a man who
had a quantity of these strips, came up and offered me one, which 1
took and bound round my arm.
The coffin, which consisted of the trunk of a large tree, was
covered with a dark-coloured cloth ; a few garlands of flowers were
suspended frora it, and some rice, tied up in a cloth, was placed upon
it. Four-and-twenty men bore this hea-vy burden on immense poles:
their behaviour was excessively lively, and every time they changed,
they began quarreUing or laughing among themselves. Nor did the
other personages in the cereraony display either grief or respect;
they ate, drank, smoked, and talked, while some carried cold tea in
small pails for the benefit of such as might be thfrsty. The son
alone held himself aloof; he walked, according to custom, plunged
in deep sorrow by the side of the coffin.
On reaching the road that led to the last resting place, the son
threw himself upon the ground, and, covering up his face, sobbed very
audibly. After a little, he got up again and tottered behind the
coffin, so that two men were obliged to support him; he appeared
very iU and deeply moved. It is true, I was afterwards informed that
this grief is mostly merely assmned, since custom requires that the
chief mourner shall be, or pretend to be, weak and ill with sorrow.
On arriving at the grave, which was seven feet deep, and dug on
the decUvity of a hill, they laid the pall, fiowers, and rice on one side,
and then, after thro-wing in a vast quantity of gold and silver paper,
lowered the coffin, which I then for the first time perceived was of
the finest workmanship, lacquered and hermetically closed. At least
half an hour was taken up by this part of the proceedings. The
relations at first threw themselves on the ground, and, covering their
faces, howled horribly, but finding the burial lasted rather long, sat
down in a efrcle all round, and taking thefr Httle baskets of betel,
burnt mussel-sheUs, and areca-nuts, began chewing away with the
greatest composure.
After the coffin was lowered into the grave, one of the attendants
advanced to the upper part of it, and opened the sraall packet of rice,
on which he placed a sort of corapass. A cord was then handed to
him. He placed it over the middle of the compass, and altered its
position untu it lay exactly in the same dfrection as the needle. A
second cord, with a plummet attached, was then held to the first and
letdown into the grave, and the coffln moved backwards and forwards
according to this line, until the middle was in the same dfrection as
the needle : this arrangement consumed at least another quarter of
an hour. After this, the coffin was covered over with numberless sheets of
white paper, and the person who had conducted the previous operation
made a short speech, during which the chUdren ofthe deceased threw
themselves upon the ground. When it was finished, the speaker
threw a few handfuls of rice over the coffin and to the children, who
held up the corner of their outer garments so as to catch as many of
the grains as possible ; but as they only succeeded in obtaining a few,
the speaker gave about a handful more, which they tied up carefuUy
in the corner of thefr dress, and took away with them.

SINGAPORE— TUE FEAST OF LANTERNS. 127
The grave was at last filled in, when the relations set up a most
dismal howl, but, as far as I could reraark, every eye was dry.
After this, boiled fowls, ducks, pork, fruit, all kinds of pastry, and
a dozen cups full of tea, together with tiie tea-pot, were placed in
two rows upon the grave, and six painted wax tapers Ughted and
stuck in the ground near the refreshments. During all this time, im
mense heaps of gold and silver paper were set fire to and consumed.
The eldest son now approached the grave again, and thi-ew
himself do-vm several tiraes, touching tiie ground on each occasion
with his forehead. Six perfumed paper tapers were handed to him
a-Hght ; when ho had swung them round in the afr a few times he
gave thera back, when they also, in their tm-n, were fixed in the
earth. The other relations performed the same ceremony.
During all this time, the priest had been sitting at a considerable
distance from the grave under the shade of a large parasol, and with
out taking the sUghtest share inthe proceedings. He now, however,
came forward, made a short speech, dm-ing which he rang a small
bell several times, and his duty was at an end. The refreshments
were cleared away, the tea pom-ed over the grave, and the whole
company returned home in exceUent spirits accorapanied by tho
music, which had also played at intervals over the grave. The
provisions, as I was inforraed, were distributed among the poor.
On the foUo-wing d^y I witnessed the celebrated Chinese Feast
of Lanterns. From all the houses, at the corners of the roofs, from
high posts, &c., were hung innumerable lanterns, made of paper or
gauze, and. most artistically ornamented with gods, warriors, and
animals. In the courts and gardens of the different houses, or, where
there were no courts or gardens, in the Streete, all kinds of refresh
ments and fruit were laid out with Ughte and fiowers, in the form of
half pyramids on large tables. The people wandered about the streets,
gardens, and com-ts, until nearly midnight, when the edible portions
of the pyramids were eaten by the proprietors of thera. I was very
much pleased with this feast, but with no part of it more than the
quiet and orderly behaviour of the people : they looked at all the
eatables with a scrutinizing glance, but without touching the sraaUest
fragment. Singapore is situated 58' (nautical mUes) north of the line, in
104° East longitude, and the climate, when compared to that of other
southem countries, is very agreeable. During the period of my stay,
extending from September 3i-d to October 8th, the heat seldom ex
ceeded 83° 75' indoors, and 117° in the sun. There is never any
great variation in the temperature, which is the natural consequence
of the place being near the equator. The sun always rises and sets
at 6, A. M. and 6, p. m. respectively, and is imraediately followed by full
daylight or perfect night ; the twUight hardly lasting ten rainutes.
In conclusion, I raust remark that Singapore will shortly become
the central point ef aUthe Indian steamers. Those from Hong-Kong,
Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, and Em-ope arrive regularly once a month ;
there is Hkewise a Dutch war-steamer from Bata-\ia, and in a little
time there will also be steamers running to and fro between this
place, and ManiUa and Sidney.

CHAPTER X.
THE EAST INDIES— CEYLON,
Departure from Sikgafobe — The Island op Pinang — Ceyeon — Poikte de Galice —
Excursion into the Interior^Colombo— Canuy^ — Tee Temple of Dagoha — ^Ele
phant Hunt — Return to Colombo and Pointe de Galle.
I ONCE more embarked in an EngUsh steamer, the " Braganza," of
350 horse power, that left Singapore fbr Ceylon on the 7th of October.
The distance between the two places is 1,900 mUes.
The freatment I experienced on board this vessel was, it is true,
a Uttle different fr-om that on board the other, although it was nearly
as bad. There were four of us in the second cabin ; * we dined alone,
and had a mulatto servant to attend upon us. Unfortunately, he
was afflicted with elephantiasis, and his appearance did not at all tend
to whet the edge of our appetites. •
During the 7th and Sth of October, we held our course through
the Strait of Malacca, which separates Sumatra from the peninsula,
and dm-ing all this time we never lost sight of land. Malacca is,
near the coast, merely hUly; but fm-ther in the interior the hUls sweU
into a flne mountain range. To our left lay a number of mountainous
islands, which completely intercepted our view of Sumafra.
But if the scenery aromid us was not remarkable, the spectacle on
board the vessel itself was highly interesting. The crew was composed
of seventy-nine persons, comprising Chinese, Malays, Cingalese, Ben
galese, Ilindostanese, and Europeans. As a general rule, those of each
country generally took thefr meals separately with thefr own covm try
men. They aU had immense plates of rice, and Httle bowls full of
curry ; a few pieces of dried fish suppUed the place of bread. They
poured the curry over the rice, and mixing the whole together with
their hands, made it into small balls which they put into their mouths
with a small piece of flsh ; about half thefr food used- generaUy to
fall back again into their plates.
The costume of these people was very simple. Many of them had
nothing more than a pair of short frousers on^ with a dfrty old turban,
and even the place of this was sometimes supplied by a coloured rag,
or a cast-off sailor's cap. The Malays wore long cloths wound round
their bodies, with one end hanging over their shoulder. The Chinese
preserved intact thefr usual costume and mode of life ; and' the coloured
servants of the ship's officers were the only ones who were occasionally
well and even eltegantiy dressed; Thefr costume consisted of white
• One of tbe four, bad been removed from the flrst cabin, because it -was asserted tbat
be was somewbat ci-acked, and did not alwas-s know wbat bo said' or did.

THB ISL.UJDS OF PINANG AND CEYLON. 139
frousers, wide upper garments, also white, with white sashes, silk
jackets, and small embroidered white caps, or handsome turbans.
The manner in which all these poor coloured people were treated
was certainly not in accordance with Christian principles. No one ever
addressed them but in the roughest manner, and they were kicked
and cuffed about on every occasion; even the dirtiest little European
cahin-boy on board was allowed to act in the most cruel manner, and
play off the most ignoble practical jokes upon them. Unhappy crea
tures ! how is it possible that they should feel any love for Christians ?
Ou the 9th of October we landed on the smaU island of Pinang.
The town of the same name Ues in the midst of a small plain,
which forms the half of an isthmus. Not far ft-om the town rises a
picturesque mountain range.
I received flve hours' leave, which I devoted to riding about in
all directions through the town in a palanquin, and even grfing a
Uttle distance into the country. All that I could see resembled what
I had afready seen at Singapore. The town itself is not handsome,
but the contrary is the case with the country-houses, which are aU
situated in beautiful gardens. The island is intersected by a great
number of exceUent roads.
From one of the neighbouring mountains there is said to be a very
tine prospect of Pinang, a part of Malacca, and the sea, and, on the
road to the mountain, a waterfall. Unfortunately, the few hours at
my disposal did not a!lo.w me to see everything.
The greatest portion of the population of this island consists of
Chinese, who perform all the manual labour, and engross aU the retail
trade. On the llth of October we saw the small island of Pulo-Rondo,
which appertains to Sumatra. We now took the shortest Hne across
the Bay of Bengal, and beheld land no more untU we came in sight
of Ceylon. On the afternoon of tho 17th of October, we neared Ceylon. 1
strained my anxious eyes to catch a glimpse of it as soon as possible,
for it is always described as being a second Eden ; some go so far as
to affirm that our coinmon father, Adam, settled there on his expul
sion from Paradise, and, as a proof of this, adduce the fact of many
places in the island, such as Adam's Peak, Adara's Bridge, &c., still
bearing his name. I breathed the very air more eagerly, hoping,
Hke other travellers, to inhale the fragrant odom-s wafted to me from
the plantations of costly spices.
It was one of the most magnificent sights I ever beheld, to observe
the island rising gradually from the sea, and to mark the numerous
mountain ranges, which intersect Ceylon in every direction, becoming
every instant more defined, their sumraits still magically Ughted by
the setting sun, while the thick cocoa-grovesj the hills, and plains lay
enveloped in dusky night. The fragrant odours, however, were
wanting, and the vessel smelt, as usual, of nothing more than tar,
coals, steam, and oU.
About 9 in the evening, we arrived before the harbour at Pointe
de Galle, but,, as the enti-ance is very dangerous, we quietly hove-to
fbr the night. On the foUowing morning two pilots came on board

130 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WORLD.
and took us safely through the narrow passage of deep water leading
into the port.
Hardly were we landed before we were surrounded by a crowd
of people with precious stones, pearls, tortoiseshell, and ivory articles
for sale. It is possible that a connoisseur may sometimes make a
very advantageous purchase ; but I would advise those who have not
much experience in these things, not to be dazzled by the size and
splendour of the Said precious stones and pearls, as the natives, accori
ing to all accounts, have learnt from Europeans the art of profiting as
much as they ean by a favourable opportunity.
Pointe de Galle is charmingly situated: in the fore-ground are
some fine groups of rock, and in the back-ground, immediately adjoin
ing the little town, which is protected by fortiflcations, rise magnifl
cent forests of palms. The houses present a neat appearance ; they
are low, and shaded by trees, which, in the better streets, are planted
so as to forra alleys.
Pointe de GaUeis the place of rendezvous for the steamers from
China, Bombay, Calcutta, and Suez. Passengers from Calcutta, Bom
bay, and Suez, do not stop more than twelve, or, at most, twenty-four
hours ; but those proceeding from China to Calcutta have to wait ten
or fourteen for the steamer that carries them to thefr destination.
This delay was to me very agreeable, as I profited by it to make an
excursion to Candy.
There are two conveyances from Pointe de Galle to Colombo — the
maU which leaves every day, and a eoach which starts three times a
week. The distance is seventy-three EngUsh mUes, and the journey
is performed in ten hours. A place in the maU costs £1 10s., and in
the coach 12s. As I was pressed for tirae, I was obliged to go by the
flrst. The roads are excellent ; not a hiU, not a stone is there to im
pede the rapid rate at which the horses, that are changed every eight
miles, scamper along.
The greater portion of the road traversed thick forests of cocoa-
trees, at a Uttle distance from the sea-shore, and the whole way was
more frequented and more thickly studded with houses than anything
I ever saw even in Europe. VUlage foUowed 'village in quick suc^
cession, and so many separate houses were buUt between them, that
there was not a rainute that we did not pass one. I reraarked also
some sraall towns, but the only one worthy of notice was Calturi,
where I was particularly sfruck by several handsome houses inha
bited by Europeans.
Along the road-side, under little roofs of palm-leaves, were placed
large earthen vessels filled with water, and near them cocoa-nut
shells to drink out of. Another measure for the accoraraodation of
travellers, which is no less worthy of praise, consists m the estabUsh
ment of little stone buUdings, roofed in, but open at the sides, aud
furnished with benches, In these buUdings many wayfarers often
pass the night.
The numberof people and vehicles that we met made thejourney
appear to me very short. There were specimens of all the various
races which compose the population of Ceylon. The Cingalese,
properly so called, are the most numerous, but, besides these, there

CEYLON — EXCDESION INTO THE INTEEIOR. 131
are Indians, Mahomedans, Malays, natives of Malabar, Jews, Moors,
and even Hottentots. I saw numerous instances of handsome and
agreeable physiognomies among those of the first three races ; the
Cingalese youths and boys, in particular, are remarkably handsome.
They possess mUd, weU-formed features, and are so slim and finely buUt,
that they might easUy be mistaken for gfrls ; an error into which it is
the more easy to fall from thefr manner of dressing thefr hair. They
wear no covering on thefr head, and comb back all their hair, which
is then fastened behind by raeans of a comb, with a flat, broad plate,
fom- inches high. Tlus kind of head-dress looks anytldng but be
coming in the men. The Mahomedans and Jews have more marked
features ; the latter resemble the Arabs, and, like them, have noble
physiognomies. The Mahomedans and Jews, too, are easily recog
nised by thefr shaven heads, long beards, and small white caps or
turbans. Many of the Indians, likewise, wear torbans ; but the
most have only a simple piece of cloth tied round thefr head, which
is also the case with the natives of Malacca and Malabar. The Hot
tentots allow thefr coal-black hafr to fall in rude disorder over thefr
foreheads and half-way down thefr necks. With the exception of
the Mahoraedans and Jews, none of these different people bestow
much cai-e upon their dress. Save a small piece of cloth of about
a hand's-breadth, and fastened between thefr legs, they go about
naked. Those who are at all dressed, wear short frousers and an
upper garment.
I saw very few women, and these only near thefr huts, which
they appear to leave less than any females with whom I am acquainted.
Thefr dress, also, was exceedingly simple, consisting merely of an
apron bound round thefr loins, a short jacket that exposed rather
than covered the upper part of thefr body, and a sort of rag hanging
over thefr head. Many were enveloped in large pieces of cloth worn
loosely about them. The borders and lobes of thefr ears were pierced
and ornamented -with ear-rings, whUe on thefr feet and arras, and
round thefr necks, they wore chains and bracelets of sUver, or some
other metal, and round one of their toes an extremely massive ring.
Any one woidd suppose that, in a country where the feraales are
aUowed to show themselves so little, they would be closely wrapped
up ; but this is not the case. Many had forgotten thefr jackets and
head coverings, especially the old women, who seeraed particularly
obUvious in this respect, and presented a most repulsive appearance
when thus exposed. Among the younger ones I remarked many a
handsome and expressive face ; only they, too, ought not to be seen
without thefr jackete, as their breasts hang down almost to thefr'
knees. The complexion of the population varies from a dark, to a light or
reddish brown or copper colour. The Hottentots are black, but -with
out that glossy appearance which distinguishes the negro.
It is extraordinary what a dread aU these half-naked people have
of the wet. It happened to commence raining a little, when they
sprang like so many rope-dancers over every Httle puddle, and hast
ened to thefr huts and houses for shelter. Those who were travelling
and obHged to continue thefr joumey, held, instead of umbrellas, the
J

132 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
leaves of the great fan-palra ( Corypha umbraculifera) over thefr heads.
These leaves are about four feet broad, and can be easUy held, like
&ns. One of them is large enough for two persons.
But if the natives dread the rain, they have no fear of the heat.
It is said that they run no risk from the rays of the sun, being pro
tected by the thickness of thefr skuUs and the fat beneath.
I was much struck by the pecuUarity of some of the waggons,
which consisted of wooden two-wheeled cars, roofed with palm leaves
stretching out about four feet, before and behind, beyond the body of
the car. These projections serve to protect the driver from the rain
and the rays of the sun, whichever way they raay chance to fall. The
oxen, of which there was always only a pafr, were yoked at such a
distance from the waggon, that the driver coidd walk very conve
niently in the intervening space.
I profited by the half-hour aUowed for breakfast to proceed to the
sea-shore, whence I observed a number of men busily employed on
the dangerous rock in the middle of the most violent breakers. Some
of them loosened, by the aid of long poles, oysters, mussels, &c., from
the rocks, while others dived down to the bottom to fetch them up.
I concluded that there must be pearls contained inside, for I could not
suppose that human beings would encounter such risks for the sake of
the fish alone; and yet this was the case, for I found, later, that
though the same means are employed in fishing for pearls, it is on
the eastern coast and only during the months of February and
March. The boats employed by these individuals were of two kinds. The
larger ones, which contamed about forty persons, were very broad,
and composed of boards joined together and fastened with the fibres
of the cocoa-free ; the smaller ones were exactly Uke those I saw in
Tahiti, save that they appeared stUl more dangerous. The bottom
was formed of the trunk of an extremely narrow tree, slightly hol
lowed out, and the sides of the planks are kept in thefr places by side
and cross supporte. These craft rose hardly a foot and a half out of
the water, and thefr greatest breadth did not average quite a foot.
There was a small piece of plank laid across as a seat, but the rower
was obliged to cross his knees from want of room to sit with them apart.
The road, as I before mentioned, lay for the most part through
forests of cocoa-trees, where the soU was very sandy and completely
free from creepers and underwood ; but near trees that did not bear
fruit, the soil was rich, and both that and the trees covered with
creepers in wild luxuriance. There were very few orchids.
We crossed four rivers, the Tindurch, Bentock, Cattura, and Pan-
dura, two by means of boats, two by handsome wooden bridges.
The cinnamon plantations commenced about ten miles from
Colombo; and on this side of the town are all the counfry-houses
of the Europeans. They are very simple, shaded with cocoa-trees
and surrounded with stone walls. At 3 o'clock in the aftemoon, we
drove over two draw-bridges and through two fortifled gateways into
the town, which is far more pleasantly situated than Pointe de Galle,
on account of its nearer proximity to the beautiful mountain ranges.
I only stopped a night here, and on the following morning again

CEYLON— EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. 133
resumed my jom-ney in the maU to the town of Candy, which is distant
seventy-two miles.
We left on the 20th of October, at 5 o'clock in the morning. Co
lombo is a very extensive town. We drove through a succession of
long, broad streete of handsome houses, all of which latter were sur
rounded by verandahs and colonnades. I was very much startled at
the number of persons lying stretched out at full length under these
verandahs, and covered with white clothes. I at first mistook them
for corpses, but I soon perceived that thefr number was too great to
warrant that supposition, and I then discovered that they were only
asleep. Many, too, began to move and throw off their winding-
sheets. I was informed that the natives prefer sleeping in this man
ner before the houses to sleeping inside of thera.
The Calanyganga, an important river, is fraversed by a long float
ing bridge ; the road then branches off more and more from the sea-
coast, and the character of the scenery changes. The traveller now
meets -with large plains covered with fine plantations of rice, the
green and juicy appearance of which remindea rae of our o-wn young
wheat when it first shoote up in spring. The forests were composed
of mere leaved wood, the pahns becoming at every step more rare ;
one or two might sometimes be seen, here and there, towering aloft
like giante, and shading everything aromid. I can imagine nothing
more lovely than the sight of the dehcate creepers attached to the
taU stems of these palras and twining up to their very crests.
After we had gone about sixteen miles, the country began to
assume a more hiUy aspect, and we were soon surrounded by
mountains on every side. At the foot of each ascent we found extra
horseS^in waiting for us ; these were yoked to the ordinary team, and
whirled us rapidly over all obstacles. Although there is a rise of
about 2,000 feet on the road to Candy, we performed the distance,
seventy-two mUes, in eleven ho-ars.
The nearer we approached our destination, the more varied and
changing became the scenery. At one time we raight be closely
hemmed in by the mountains, and then the next moment they would
sfretch away, one above the other, while their summits seemed to
contend which should outrival the rest in altitude and beauty of
outline. They were covered, to the height of several thousand feet,
with luxuriant vegetation, which, for the most part, then generaUy
ceased, and gave way to the bare rock. I was not less interested,
however, -with the curious teams we soraetiraes met, than I was -with
the scenery. It is well known that Ceylon abounds in elephants,
many of which are captured and employed for various purposes.
Those that I now saw were yoked in twos or threes to large waggons,
full of stones for mending the roads.
Four miles before reaching Candy, we came to the river MahavUa-
ganga, which is spanned by a raasterly bridge of one arch. The
materials of the bridge are most costly, consisting of satin-wood. In
connection with this structure, I learned the foUowing legend.
After the conquest of the island by the English, the natives did
not give up the hope of once more attaining their independence,
because one of thefr oracles had declared that it was as impossible
j2

134 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD..
for the enemy to obtain a lasting dominion over them, as it was for
the opposite banks of the Mahavilaganga to be united by a road.
When the bridge was begun, they smiled, and said that it could
never be successfully completed. At present, I was told, they think
of independence no raore.
Near the bridge is a botanical garden which I visited the foUowing
day, and was astonished at its excellent arrangement, and the rich
ness of its coUection of flowers, plants, and trees.
Opposite the garden is one of the largest sugar-plantations, and,
in the neighbourhood, a number of coffee-plantations.
In ray opinion, the situation of Candy is most beautiful, but many
affirm that it is too near the mountains, and Ues in a pit. At any
rate, this pit is, a very lovely one, abounding in the raost luxuriant
vegetation. The town itself is sraall and ugly, consisting of nothing
but a mass of smaU shops, with natives passing to and fro. The few
houses that belong to Europeans, the places of business, and the
barracks, are all outside the town, upon small hills. Large sheets
of artiflcial water, surrounded by splendid stone balustrades, and
shaded by alleys of the mighty tuUp-tree, occupy a portion of the
vaUey. On the side of one of these basins, stands the famous Buddhist
temple of Dagoha, which is buUt in the Moorish-Hindostanee style,
and richly ornamented.
On my leaving the coach, one of the passengers was kind enough
to recoraraend rae a good hotel, and to call a native and dfrect him
where to conduct me. When I reached the hotel, the people there
said that they were very sorry, but that all thefr rooms were occupied.
I asked them to direct my guide to another establishment, which they
did. The rascal led me away from the town, and, pointing to a hill
which was near us, gave me to understand that the hotel was situated
behind it. I believed him, as all the houses are built far apart ; but
on ascending the hiU, I found nothing but a lonely spot and a wood.
I wished to tum back, but the fellow paid no attention to my desfre,
and continued waUdng towards the wood. I then snatched my port
manteau frora him, and refused to proceed any further. He endeavoured
to -wrest it from me, when, luckily, I saw in the distance two EngUsh
soldiers, who hastened up in answer to my cries, and, on seeing this,
the feUow ran off. I related my adventure to the soldiers, who con
gratulated rae on the recovery of my luggage, and conducted me to
the barracks, where one of the officers was kind enough to give orders
that I should be conducted to another hotel.
My first visit was to the temple of Dagoha, which contains a
valuable relic of the god Buddha, namely, one of his teeth, and,
together with the out-buUdings, is sm-rounded by a wall. The cfr
cumference of the principal teraple is not very considerable, and the
sanctuary, which contains the tooth, is a small chamber hardly twenty
feet broad. Within this place all is darkness, as there are no win
dows, and inside the door, there is a curtain, to prevent the entry
j)f any light. The waUs and ceUing are covered with sUk tapestry,
which, however, has nothing but its antiquity to recoraraend it.
It is true that it was interwoven with gold thread, but it appeared
never to have been especially costly, and I cannot beUeve that it ever

CEYLON— THE TEMPLE OF DAGOHA. IM
produced that dazzling effect which some travellers have described*
Half of the chamber was engrossed by a large teble, or kind of altar,
inlaid with plates of silver, and ornamented round the edges with
precious stones. On it stands a bell-shaped case, measuring at the
bottom at least three feet in diameter, and the same in height. It is
made of silver thickly gilt, and decorated with a number of costly
jewels ; there is a peacock in the middle entirely formed of precious
stones ; but all these treasures fail to produce any very great effect,
from the clumsy and inartistic fashion in wMch they are set.
Under the large case there are six smaller ones, said to be of pure
gold ; mider the last is the tooth of the all-powerful divinity. The
outer case is secured by means of three locks, two of the keys belong
ing to which used to be kept by the EngHsh governor, while the
thfrd remained in the custody of the chief priest of the temple. A
short time previous to my visit, however, the government had restored
the two keys to the natives with great solemnities, and they are now
confided to one of the native Madschas, or princes.
The reUc itself is only shown to a prince or some other great
personage ; all other people must be content to believe the priest,
who, for a smaU gratuity, has the politeness to describe the size and
beauty of the tooth. The dazzling wliiteness of its hue is said to
ecHpse that of ivory, while its forra is described as being more beau
tiful than anything of the kind ever beheld, and its size to equal that
of the tooth of an immense buUock.
An immense number of pUgrims come here every year to pay
thefr adoration to this divine tooth.
" Where ignorance is bliss, 't is folly to be wise." How many
people are there among us Christians who believe things which re
qufre quite as great an araount of faith ? For instance, I reraeraber
witnessing, when I was a girl, a festival at Calvaria, in GaUicia,
which is stUl celebrated every year. A great multitude of pilgrims
go there to obtain splinters of the true cross. The priests manufacture
Httle crosses of wax, on which, as they assure the faithful, they stick
splinters of the real one. These Httie crosses, wrapped up in paper
and packed in baskets, are placed ready for distri'bution, that is,
for sale. Every peasant generally takes three : one to put in his
room, one in his stable, and another in his bam. The most wonderful
portion of the business is that these crosses must be renewed every
year, as in that period they lose thefr divine power.
But let me return to Candy. In a second temple, adjoining that
in which the relic is preserved, are two gigantic hollow statues of the
god Buddha in a sitting posture, and both are said to be formed of
the flnest gold. Before these colossi stand whole rows of smallet
Buddhas, of crystal, glass, sUver, coppery and other materials. In
the entrance hall, likewise, are several stone statues of different godsj
with other ornaments, most of them roughly and stiffly executed.
In the middle stands a small plain monument of stone, resembling a
beU turned upside down ; it is said to cover the grave of a Brahmin.
On the outer waUs of the principal temple are wretched daubs in
fresco, representing the state of eternal punishment. Some of the
figures are being roasted, twitched with red-hot pincers, partly baked,

136 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
or forced to swaUow fire. Others again, are jammed between rocks,
or having pieces of fiesh cut out of thefr bodies, &c., but fitre appears
to play the principal part in these punishments.
The doors of the principal temple are made of metal, and the door-
poste of ivory. On the first are the most beautiful arabesques in
basso-relief, and on the second, in inlaid work, representuig flowers
and other objects. Before the principal enfrance, four of the largest
elephant's teeth ever found are stuck up by way of ornament.
Ranged »ound the court-yard are the tents of the priests, who
always go about with bare, shaven heads, and whose costume consiste of
a light yeUow upper garment, which nearly covers the whole body.
Jt is said that tliere were once 500 officiating priests in this teraple ;
it present the divinity is obliged to content himself with a few dozen.
The chief part of the religious ceremonies of the Buddhists con
sists in presents of flowers and money. Every moming and evening
a most horrible instrument, flt to break the drum of one's ear, and
called a tam-tam, together with some shriU trumpets and flfes, is
played before the door of the temple. To this soon succeeds a crowd
of people from all sides, bringing baskets fuU of the most beautiful
flowers, -with which the priests adorn the altars, and that in a manner
so elegant and tasty, that it cannot be surpassed.
Besides this temple, there are several others in Candy, but only
one worth noticing. This is situated at the foot of a rocky hill, out of
which has been he-wn a statue of Buddha, thfrty-six feet high, and over
this is built the temple, which is small and elegant. The god is
painted with the ino.st glaring colours. The walls of the temple are
covered with handsome red cement, and portioned out into small
panels, in all of which the god Buddha appears alfresco. There are
also a few portraits of Vischnu, another god. The colours on the
southem wall of the temple are remai-kable for thefr fine stete of
preservation. Here, Ukewise, there is a funeral monument, Hke that of the Tem
ple of Dagoha, not however, in the buUding itself, but under the lofty
flrmaraent of heaven, and shaded by noble trees.
Attached to the temples are frequently schools, in which the
priests fulfll the duties of teachers. Near this particular teraple, we
saw about a dozen boys — girls are not allowed to attend sehool— busy
-writing. The copies for thera were written very beautifuUy, by raeans
of a stylus, on smaU palm-leaves, and the boys used the same material.
It is well worth any person's whUe to walk to the great valley
through which the Mahavilaganga flows. It is intersected -with a
countless number of wave-like hills, many of which form regular
terraces, and are planted with rice or coffee. Nature is here young
and -vigorous, and amply rewards the planter's toil. The darker
portions of the picture are composed of palms or other frees, and the
back-ground consiste partly of towering mountains, in a holiday
suit of green velvet, partiy of stupendous and romantic rocks in aU
their gloomy nakedness.
I saw many of the principal mountains in Ceylon — giante, 8,000
feet high; but, unfortunately, not the most celebrated one, Adam's
Peak, which has an altitude of 6,500 feet, and which, towards the

CEYLON— ELEPHANT HUNTING. 137
summit is so steep, that it was necessai-y, m order to enable any one
to climb up, to out small steps in the rock, and let in an iron chain.
But the bold adventurer is amply repaid for his trouble. On the flat
summit of the rock is the imprmt of a small foot, five feet long. The
Mahomedans suppose it to be Uiat of om- vigorous progenitor, Adam,
and the Buddhists that of their large-toothed divinity, Buddha. Thou
sands of both sects floclc to the place every year, to perform their
devotions. There stiU existe at Candy the palace of the former king, or em
peror of Ceylon. It is a handsome stono building, but with no
peculiar feature of ite own ; I should have supposed that it had been built
by Europeans. It consists of a ground floor, somewhat raised, with
large windows, and handsome porticoes resting upqn columns. The
only remarkable thing about it is a large haU in the interior, -iVith its
wails decorated with some rough and stiOSy executed representations
of animals in relief. Since the English deposed the native sovereign,
the palace has been inhabited by the English resident, or governor.
Had I only arrived a fortnight sooner, I should have witnessed the
mode of hunting, or rather snaring, elephants. The scene of operations
is a spot on the banks of some stream or other, where these animals
go to diink. A large place is enclosed -with posts, leading up to
whieh, and also skfrted by stout posts, are a series of narrow passages.
A tame elephant, properly trained, is then made fast in the middle of
the large space, to entice by his cries the thfrsty animals, who enter
unsuspiciously the labyi-inth from which they cannot escape, as the
hunters and drivers foUow, alarm them by thefr shouts, and drive
them into the middle of the enclosure. The finest are taken alive,
by being deprived of food for a short time. This renders them so
obedient, that they quietly allow a noose to be thrown over thera, and
then foUow the tame elephant without the least resistance. The
others are then either kiUed or set at Uberty, according as they possess
fine tusks or not.
The prepai-ations for capturing these aniraals soraetimes last
several weeks, as, besides enclosing the spot selected, a great raany
persons are eraployed to hunt up the elephants far and wide, and
drive thera graduaUy to the watering place.
Persons sometimes go elephant-hunting, armed raerely with fire
arms ; but this is attended -with danger. The elephant, as is well
kno-wn, is easUy vulnerable in one spot only, — the middle of the skull.
If the hunter happens to hit the mark, the raonster lies stretched
before him at the flrst shot ; but if he misses, then woe to him, for
he is speedUy trampled to death by the enraged beast. In all other
cases the elephant is veiy peaceable, and is not easily induced to
attack human beings.
The Europeans employ elephants to draw and carry burdens — an
elephant -wiU carry forty hundred- weight; but the natives keep them
more for show and riding.
I left Candy after a stay of three days, and retumed to Colombo,
where I was obHged to stop another day, as it was Sunday, and there
was no mail.
I proflted by this period to -visit the town, which is protected by a

138 A -woman's journey ROUND THE WOELD.
sti-ong fort. It is very extensive ; the sfreets are handsome, broad,
and clean; the houses only one story hi^h, and surrounded by veran
dahs and colonnades. The population is reckoned at about 80,000
souls, of whom about 100 are Europeans, exclusive of the froops, and
200 descendants of Portuguese colonists, who founded a settlement
here some centuries ago. The complexion of the latter is quite as
dark as that of the natives themselves.
In the morning I attended mass. ITie church was full of Irish
soldiers and Portuguese. The dress of the Portuguese was extremely
rich ; they wore ample robes -with large folds, and short silk jackete ;
in thefr ears hung ear-rings of pearls and diaraonds, and round thefr
necks, arms, and even ankles, were gold and sUver chains.
In the afternoon I took a walk to one of the numerous cinnamon
plantations round Colombo. The cinnamon tree or bush is planted in
rows ; it attains at most a height of nine feet, and bears a white,
scentless blossom. From the fruit, which is smaller than an acom,
oil is obtained by crushing and boUing it ; the oU then disengages
itself and floate on the top of the water. It is raixed -with cocoa-oU
and used for burning.
There are two cinnaraon harveste in the course of the year. The
flrst and principal one takes place from April to July, and the second
from Noveraber to January. The rind is peeled frora the branches
by means of knives, and then dried in the sun ; this gives it a yel
lowish or brownish tint. The best cinnamon is a Ught yellow, and
not thicker than pasteboard.
The essential oil of cinnaraon, used in raedicine, is exfracted from
the plant itself, which is placed in a vessel fuU of water, and left to
steep for eight to ten days. The whole mass is then transferred to a
retort and distUled over a slow flre. In a short time, on the surface
of the water thus distiUed a quantity of oU coUects, and this is then
skimmed off with the greatest care.
In the animal kingdom, besides the elephants, I was much struck
by the nuraber and tameness of the ravens of Ceylon. In every small
town and ¦vUlage raay be seen multitudes ofthese birds, that come up
to the very doors and windows and pick up everything. They play
the part of scavengers here, just as dogs do in Turkey. The horned
cattle are rather sraall, with huraps between the shoulder-blades;
these humps consist of flesh and are considered a great dainty.
In Colombo and Pointe de Galle there are likewise a great many
large white buffaloes, belonging to the EngUsh government, and im
ported from Bengal. They are employed in drawing heavy loads.
Under the head of fruit, I may mention the pine-apple as being
particularly large and good.
I found the temperature supportable, especially in the high country
round about Candy, where, after some heavy rain, it might almost be
called cold. In the evening and morning the thermometer stood as
low as 61° 25' Fah. ; and in the middle of the day and in the sun, it
did not rise above 79° 25.' In Colombo and Pointe de GaUe, the
weather was flne, and the heat reached 95° Fah.
On the 26th of October I again reached Pointe de Galle, and on
tie foUo-wing day I embarked in another English steamer for India.

CHAPTER XI.
MADEAS AND CALCUTTA.
Departure fbom Cetlon — Madr.\s — Calcutt-4— Mode of Life of the Europeans —
TffE Hindoos — Principal Objects of Interest in the Town — Visit to a Baboo
— Heligious Festivals op the Hindoos — Houses of Death and Places for
Burning the Dead — Mahomedan and European Marriaoe Cerebionies.
On the aftemoon of the 27th of October I went on board the steam
ship " Bentinck," of 500 horse-power ; but we did not weigh anchor
much before evening.
Among the passengers was an Indian prince of the name of Schada-
than, who had been made prisoner by the EngHsh for breaking a peace
he had concluded with them. He was treated with aU the respect
due to his rank, and he was aUowed his two companions, his mundschi,
or secretary, and six of his servants. They were all dressed in the
Oriental fashion, only, instead of hirbans, they wore high, round caps,
composed of pasteboard covered with gold or sUver stuff. They wore
also luxuriant long black hafr, and beards.
The companions of the prince took their meals with the servants.
A carpet was spread out npon the deck, and two large dishes, one
contaming boUed fowls, and the other pUlau, placed upon it ; the com
pany used thefr hands for knives and forks.
28th October. We stiU were in sight of the fine dark mountain
ranges of Ceylon. Now and then, too, some huge detached groups of
rocks would be -visible towering above the waves.
29th October. Saw no land. A few whales betrayed thefr pre
sence by the showers of spray they spouted up, and immense swarms
of fiying flsh were startled by the noise of our engines.
On the morning of the SOth of October we came in sight of the
Indian continent. We soon approached near enough to the shore to
distinguish that it was particularly remarkable for its beauty, being
flat and partly covered -with yellow sand ; in the back-ground were
chains of low hUls.
At 1 o'clock, P.M., we anchored at a considerable distance (six
mUes)from Madras. The anchoring place here is the most dangerous
in the world, the grannd-sweU being so sfrong that at no time can large
vessels approach near the town, and raany weeks often pass without
even a boat being able to do so. Ships, consequently, only stop a
very short time, and there are rarely more than a dozen to be seen
riding at anchor. Large boats, rowed by ten or twelve men, come
alongside them to take the passengers,' letters, and merchandise
ashore. The steamer stops here eight hours, which may be spent in -viewing
the town, though any one so doing runs a chance of being left behind,

140 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
as the -wind is constantly changing. I trusted to the good luck which
had always attended me during my travels, and made one of the
party that disembarked ; but we had not got more than half way to
land when I was punished for my curiosity. It began to rain most
fearfuUy, and we were very soon wet to the skin. We took refuge
in the first coffee-house we saw, situated at the water's edge ; the
rain had now assumed a tropical character, and we were unable
to leave our asylum. As soon as the storm had passed by, a cry was
raised for us to retum as quickly as possible, as there was no kno-wing
what might follow.
A speculative baker of Madras had come out in the ffrst boat that
reached the steamer with ice and biscuits for sale, which he disposed
of very much to his profit.
The angry heavens at length took compassion onus and cleared up
before sunset. We were then enabled to see the palace-Uke dwellings
ofthe Europeans, buUt half in the Grecian and half in the Italian
style of architecture, stretching along the shore and beautifully
lighted by the sun. Besides these, there were others standing outeide
the town in the midst of magnificent gardens.
Before we left, a number of natives ventured to us in smaU boats
with fruit, fish, and other trifies. Thefr boate were constructed of
the trunks of four smaU trees, tightly bound together ¦with thin ropes
made of the fibres of the cocoa-tree ; a long piece of wood served as
an oar. The waves broke so completely over them that I imagined
every instant that both boate and men were irretrievably lost.
The good people were almost in a state of nature, and seemed to
bestow all thefr care on thefr heads, which were covered -with pieces
of cloth, hu-bans, cloth or straw caps, or very high and peaked straw
hats. The more respectable-=-among whora may be reckoned the
boatmen who brought the passengers and mails — were, however, in
many cases, very tastily dressed. They had on neat jackets, and
large long pieces of cloth wrapped round their bodies; both the cloths
and jackets were white, -with a border of blue stripes. On thefr heads
they wore tightly fitting white caps, with a long flap hanging down
as far as their shoulders. These caps, too, had a blue border. The
complexion of the natives was a dark bro^wn or coffee colour.
Late in the evening, a native woraan carae on board -with her two
children. She had paid second-class fare, and was shown a small
dark berth not far from the first cabin places. Her younger child
had, unfortunately, a bad cough, which prevented some rich English
lady, who had likewise a ehUd with her, from sleeping. Perhaps the
exaggerated tenderness which this lady manifested for her Uttle son
caused her to believe that the cough might be catching ; but, be that
as it may, the first thing she did on the foUo^wing morning, was to
beg that the captain would transfer mother and children to the deck,
which the noble-hearted humane captain immediately did, neither the
lady nor himself caring in the least whether the poor mother had or
had not, even a warm coverUd to protect her sick chUd from the night
cold and the frequent hea^vy showers.
Would that this rich EngUsh lady's chUd had only been iU, and
exposed with her to the foggy night afr, that she might herself

entrance to the GANGES. 141
have experienced what it is to be thus harshly treated! A person of
any heart must almost feel ashamed at belonging to a class of beings
who allow themselves to be far surpassed in humanity and kindness
by those who are termed savages; no savages would have thus
thrust forth a poor woman with a sick child, but would, on the
contrary, have taken care of both. It is only Em-opeans, who have
been brought up with Christian principles, who assume the right
of treating coloured people according as thefr whim or fancy may
dictate. On the 1st and 2nd of November we caught occasional gUmpses
of the mainland, as well as of several Uttle islands ; but all was fiat
and sandy, without the least pretensions to natural beauty. Ten or
twelve ships, some of them East Indiamen of the largest size, were
pursuing the same route as ourselves.
On the morning of the 3d of November, the sea had already lost ite
own beautiful colour, and taken that of the dirty yellow Ganges.
Towards evening we had approached pretty close to the mouths of
this monster river, for some imles previous to our entering which, the
water had a sweet flavour. I filled a glass from the holy stream,
and drank it to the health of all those near and dear to me at home.
At 5 o'clock in the afternoon, we cast anchor before ICadscheri, at
the enfrance of the Ganges, it being too late to proceed to Calcutta,
which is sixty nautical miles distant. The stream at this point
was several miles broad, so that the dark line of only one of its
banks was to be seen.
4th November. In the mnming we entered the Hoogly, one of the
seven mouths of the Ganges. A succession of apparently boundless
plains lay stretched along on both sides of the river. Fields of rice
were altemated with sugar plantations, while palm, bamboo, and other
trees, sprung up between, and the vegetation extended, in wanton
luxuriance, down to the very water's edge ; the only objects wanting
to complete the picture were viUages and human beings, but it was
not until we were within about five-and-twenty miles of Calcutta
that we saw now and then a wretched viUage or a few half-naked
men. The huts were formed of clay, bamboos, or palm branches,
and covered with tiles, rice-straw, or palm leaves. The larger boats
of the natives struck me as very remarkable, and differed entirely
from those I saw at Madras. The front portion was almost flat,
being elevated hardly haU' a foot above the water, while the stern
was about seven feet high.
The first graud-looking building, a cotton mill, is situated fifteen
miles below Calcutta, and a cheerful dwelUng-house is attached.
From this point up to Calcutta, both banks of the Hoogly are lined
with palaces built in the Greco-Italian style, and richly pro^vided
with pUlars and terraces. We flew too quickly by, unfortunately,
to obtain more than a mere passing glimpse of them.
Numbers of large vessels either passed us or were sailing in the
same dfrection, and steamer after steamer fiitted by, tugging vessels
after them; the scene became more busy and more strange every
moment, and everything gave signs that we were approaching an
Asiatic city of the first magnitude.

142 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
We anchored at Gardenrich, four miles below Calcutta. Nothing
gave me more trouble during my travels than finding lodgings, as it
was soraetiraes irapossible by mtre signs and gestures to make the
natives understand where 1 wanted to go. In the present instance,
one of the engineers interested himself so far in my 'behalf as to land
with me, and to hire a palanquin, and dfrect the natives where to
take me.
I was overpowered by feelings of the most disagreeable kind
the first time I used a palanquin, I could not help feeling how
degrading it was to human beings to employ thera as beasts of
burden. The palanquins are five feet long and three feet high, with sliding
doors and jalousies : in the inside they are provided with matresses
and cushions, so that a person can lie down in them as in a bed.
Four porters are enough to carry one of them about the town,
but eight are requfred for a longer excursion. They relieve each
other at short intervals, and run so quickly.that they go four miles
in an hour or even in three-quarters of an hour. These palanquins
being painted black, looked like so many sfretchers carrying corpses
to the churchyard or patients to the hospital.
On the road to the town, I was particularly struck with the mag
niflcent gauths (piazzas), situated on the banks of the Hoogly, and
from which broad fiights of steps lead down to the river. Before
these gauths are numerous pleasure and other boats.
The most magniflcent palaces lay around in the midst of splendid
gardens, into one of which the palanquin-bearers turned, and set me
down under a handsome portico before the house of Herr HeUgers,
to whora I had brought letters of recomraendation. The young and
amiable mistress of the house greeted me as a countrywoman (she
was from the north and I from the south of Germany), and received
me raost cordially. I was lodged with Indian luxury, having a
drawing-roora, a bed-room, and a bath-room especially assigned to me.
I happened to arrive in Calcutta at the most unfavourable period
possible. Three years of unfruitfulness through almost the whole of
Europe had been foUowed by a comraercial crisis, which threatened
the town with entire destruction. Every mail from Europe brought
intelligence of some failure, in which the richest flrms here were in
volved. No merchant could say, " I am worth so much;"- — the next
post might inform him that he was a beggar. A feeling of dread
and anxiety had seized every faraily. The suras afready lost in Eng
land and this place were reckoned at thirty raillions of pounds sterling,
and yet the crisis was far frora beuig at an end.
Misfortunes of this kind fall particularly hard upon persons who,
£ke the Europeans here, have been accustomed to every kind of com
fort and luxury. No one can have any idea of the mode of life in
India. Each family has an entire palace, the rent of which araounte
to two hundred mpees (£20), or more, a month. The household is
composed of from twenty-five to thirty servants; namely — two cooks,
a scullion, two water-carriers, four servants to wait at table, four
housemaids, a lamp-cleaner, and half-a-dozen seis or grooras. Besides
this, there are at least six horses, to every one of which there is a

CALCUTTA — ^MODE OF LIFE OF THE EUEOPEANS. 113
separate groom ; two coachmen, two gai-deners, a nurse and servant for
each child, a lady's maid, a girl to wait on the nurses, two tailors,
two men to work the punkahs, and one porter. The wages vary from
four to eleven rupees (8s. to £1 2s.) a month. None of the domestics
ai-e boarded, and but few of them sleep in the house : they are mostly
married, and eat and sleep at horae. The only portion of thefr dress
which they have given to thera is tiieir turban and belt ; they are
obliged to find the rest themselves, and also to pay for their own
washing. The Hnen belonging to the family is never, in spite of the
number of servante, washed at home, but is all put out, at the cost of
three rupees (6s.) for a hundred articles. The amount of linen used
is something exfraordinary; everything is white, and the whole is
generaUy changed twice a day.
Provisions are not dear, though the contrary is ti-ue of horses, car
riages, fm-niture, and wearing apparel. The last three are imported
from Em-ope ; the horses come either from Europe, New HoUand, or
Java. In some European famiUes I visited there were from sixty to
seventy servants, and from fifteen to twenty horses.
In my opinion, the Europeans themselves are to blame for the
large sums they have to pay for servants. They saw the native
princes and rajahs surrounded by a multitude of idle people, and, as
Europeans, they did not -wish to appear in any way inferior. Gradually
the custom became a necessity, and it would be difficult to find a case
where a more sensible course is pursued.
It is true that I was informed that matters could never be altered
as long as the Hindoos were divided into castes. The Hindoo who
cleans the room would on no account wait at table, whUe the nurse
thinks herself far too good ever to soil her hands by cleaning the
chUd's washing-basin. There may certamly be some truth in this,
but stUl every famUy cannot keep twenty, thirty, or even more ser
vants. In China and Singapore, I was struck with the number of
servants, but tiiey are not half, nay, not a thfrd so numerous, as they
are here.
The Hindoos, as is well laiown, are divided into four castes — the
Brahmins, Khetries, Bices, and Sooders. They all sprung from the
body of the god Brahma : the first from his mouth, the second from
his shoulders, the third from his beUy and thighs, and the fom-th from
his feet. From the first class are chosen the highest officers of state,
the priests, and the teachers of the people. Members of this class
alone are allowed to peruse the holy books ; they enjoy the greatest con
sideration ; and if they happen to corarait a crime, are far less severely
punished than persons belonging to any of the other castes. The
second class furnishes the inferior officials and soldiers ; the third the
merchants, workmen, and peasants ; whUe the fourth and last pro
vides servante for the other three. Hindoos of all castes, however,
enter service when compelled by poverty to do so, but there is still a
distinction in the kind of work, as the higher castes are aUowed to
perforra only that of the cleanest kind.
It is impossible for a person of one caste to be seceived into
another, or to intermarry with any one belonging to it. If a Hindoo
leaves his native land or takes food frora a Paria, he is turned out of

144 A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
his caste, and can only obtain re-admission on the payment of a very
large sum.
Besides these castes, there is a flfth class — the Parias. The lot of
these poor creatures is the most wretched that can be imagined. They
are so despised by the other four castes, that no one will hold the
sUghtest intercourse 'with them. If a Hindoo happens to touch a
Paria as he is passing, he thinks himself dcflled, and is obUged to
bathe immediately.
The Parias are not aUowed to enter any temple, and have par
ticular places set apart for their dweUings. They are miserably poor,
and Uve in the raost ¦wretched huts ; their food consists of aU kinds of
affal and even diseased cattle ; they go about nearly naked, or with
only a few rags at most on them, and perform the hardest and com
monest work.
The four castes are subdivided into an immense number of sects,
seventy of which are allowed to eat meat, while others are compelled
to abstain from it altogether. Strictly speaking, the Hindoo religion
forbids the spUUng of blood, and consequently the eating of meat ; but
the seventy sects j ust mentioned are an exception. There are, too, cer
tain religious festivals, at which animals are sacrificed. A cow, how
ever, is never kUled. The food of the Hindoos consiste principally of
of rice, fruit, flsh, and vegetables. They are very moderate in thefr
Hving, and have only two simple meals a day — one in the morning
and the other in the evening. Thefr general drink is water or milk,
varied sometimes with cocoa wine.
The Hindoos are of the middle height, sUm, and deUcately formed ;
their features are agreeable and mild ; the face is oval, the nose
sharply chiselled, the lip by no means thick, the eye fine and soft, and
the hair smooth and black. Thefr complexion varies, according to
the locaHty, from dark to Ught brown ; among the upper classes, sorae
of thera, especially the women, are almost white.
There are a great number of Mahomedans in India ; and as they
are extremely skilful and active, most trades and professions are in
their hands. They also -wilUngly hire themselves as servants to
Europeans. Men here do that kind of work which we are accustomed to see
perforraed by women. They embroider with ¦> hite wool, coloured
silk, and gold ; raake ladies' head-dresses, wash and fron, mend the
linen, and even take situations as nurses for Uttle children. There
are a few Chinese, too, here, most of whom are in the shoemaking
trade. Calcutta, the capital of Bengal, is situated on the Hoogly, which
at this point is so deep and broad, that the largest men-of-war and
East Indiamen can Ue at anchor before the town. The population
consists of about 600,000 souls, of whom, not counting the English
troops, hardly more than 2,000 are Europeans and Americans. The
town is divided into several portions — namely, the Business- town,
the Black-to-wn, and the Em-opean quarter. The Business-to-wn and
Black-town are very ugly, containing nai-row, crooked streets, filled
with wretehed houses and miserable huts, between which there are
WEurehouses, counting-houses, and now and then some palace or other.

PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN CALCUTTA. M5
Narrow paved canals run through all the streets, in order to supply
the necessary amount of water for the numerous daily ablutions of the
Hindoos. The Business-town and Black-town are always so densely
crowded, that when a carriage drives through, tho servants are obliged
to get do^vn and run on before, in order to warn the people, or push
them out of the way.
The European quarter of the town, however, which is often termed
the City of Palaoes — a name which it richly merits — is, on the contrary,
very beautiful. Every good-sized house, by the way, is called, as it is
in 'Venice, a palace. Most of these palaces are situated in gardens
surrounded by high waUs ; they seldom join one another, for which
reason there are but few imposing squares or sfreets.
With the exception of the governor's palace, none ofthese buildings
can be compai-ed for architectural beauty and richness with the large
palaces of Rorae, Florence, and "Venice. Most of them are only distin
guished from ordinary dwelling-houses by a handsome portico upon
brick pUlars covered -with cement, and terrace-Uke roofs. Inside, the
rooms are large and lofty, and the stairs of greyish marble or even
wood; but neither in doors or out are there any fine statues or
sculptures. 'The Palace of the governor is, as I before said, a magnificent
buUding — one that would be an ornament to the finest city in the
world. It is buUt in the form of a horse-shoe, with a handsome
cupola in the centre : the portico, as well as both the wings, is sup
ported upon columns. The internal arrangements are as bad as can
possibly be imagined; the supper-room being, for instance, a story
higher than the ball-room. In both these rooms there is a row of
columns on each side, and the fioor of the latter is composed of Agra
marble. The pillars and walls are covered with a white cement, which
is equal to marble for its poUsh. The private rooms are not worth
looking at ; they merely afford the spectator an opportunity of admfring
the skill of the architect, who has managed to turn the large space at
his command to the smallest imaginable profit.
Among the other buUdings worthy of notice are the Town-hall,
the Hospital, the Museum, Ochterlony's Monument, the Mint, and
the English Cathedral.
The Town-hall is large and handsome. The hall itself extends
through one entfre story. There are a few monuments in white
marble to the memory of several distinguished men of modem times.
It is here that all kinds of meetings are held, all speculations and
undertakings discussed, and concerts, balls, and other entertainments
given. The Hospital consists of several small houses, each standing in the
midst of a grass plot. The male patiente are lodged in one house, the
females and chUdren in a second, whUe the lunatics are confined in
the thfrd. The wards were spacious, afry, and excessively clean.
Only Christians are recei-ved as patients.
The hospital for natives is similar, but considerably smaller. The
patients are received for nothing, and nurabers who cannot be accom
modated in the building itseU are suppUed with drugs and medicines.
The Museum, which was only founded in 1836, possesses, con-

i4G A WOMAN S JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
fiidering the short space of time that has elapsed since its establish
ment, a very rich collection, particularly of quadrupeds and skeletons,
but there are very few specimens of insects, and most of those are
injured. In one of the rooms is a beautifully-executed model of the
celebrated Tatch in Agra ; several sculptures and bas-reliefs were
lying around. The figures seemed to rae very clumsy; the archi
tecture, however, is decidedly superior. The museum is open daUy.
I visited it several times, and, on every occasion, to my great asto
nishment, met a number of natives, who seemed to take the greatest
interest in the objects before them.
Ochterlony's Monument is a simple stone column, 165 feet iff
height, standing, like a large note of admfration, on a solitary grass-
plot, in memory of General Ochterlony, who was equally celebrated
as a statesman and a warrior. Whoever is not afraid of mounting
222 steps wiU be recompensed by an extensive view of the town, the
river, and the surrounding country ; the last, however, is very mono
tonous, consisting of an endless succession of plains bounded only by
the horizon.
Not far frora the column is a neat little mosque, whose countless
towers and cupolas are ornamented with gUt metal balls, which gUtter
and glisten like so raany stars in the heavens. It is surrounded by a
pretty court-yard, at the entrance of which those who ¦wish to enter
the mosque are obliged to leave thefr shoes. I compHed with this
regulation, but did not feel recompensed for so doing, as I saw merely
a small empty hall, the roof of which was supported by a few stone
pillars. Glass lamps were suspended from the roof and walls, and
the floor was paved with Agra marble, which is very coinmon in
Calcutta, being brought down the Ganges.
The Mint presents a raost handsorae appearance ; it is built in the
pure Grecian style, except that it is not surrounded by pillars on all
its four sides. The raachinery in it is said to be especiaUy good,
surpassing anything of the kind to be seen even in Europe. I am
unable to express any opinion on the subject, and can only say that
all I saw appeared excessively ingenious and perfect. The metal is
softened by heat and then flattened into plates by means of cylinders.
These plates are cut into strips and stamped. The rooms m which
the operations take place are spacious, lofty, and airy. The motive-
power is mostly steam.
Of all the Christian places of worship, the EngUsh Cathedral is
the raost magnificent. It is built in the Gothic style, with a fine
large tower rising above half-a-dozen smaller ones. There are other
churches with Gothic towers, but these edifices are all extremely
simple in the interior, with the exception of the Armenian church,
which has the wall near the altar crowded with pictures in gold
frames. The notorious " Black Hole," in which the Rajah Suraja Dowla
cast 150 of the principal prisoners when he obtained possession of
Calcutta in 1766, is at present changed into a warehouse. At the
entrance stands an obeUsk flfty feet high, and on it are inscribed the
names of his victims.
The Botamcal Garden Hes flve mUes distant from the town. It

PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN CALCUTTA, 147
was founded in the year 1743, but is more like a natural park than
a garden, as it is by no means so remarkable for its collection of
flowers and plants as for the number of trees and shrubs, which are
distributed here and there with studied negHgence in the midst of
large grass-plots. A neat Uttle monument, with a marble bust, is
¦erected to the memory of the founder. The most remarkable objects
are two banana-trees. These trees belong to the flg-tree species, and
sometimes attain a height of forty feet. The fruit is very small,
round, and ofa dark-red; it yields oil when burnt. "When the trunk
has reached an elevation of about fifteen feet, a number of small
branches shoot out horizontally in aU directions, and from these a
quantity of threadlike roote descend perpendicularly to the ground,
in which they soon firmly fix themselves. When they are sufficiently
grown, they send out shoots like the parent trunk ; and this process
is repeated ad infinitum, so that it is easy to understand how a single
tree may end by forming a whole forest, in which thousands raay find
a cool and shady refreat. This tree is held sacred by the Hindoos.
They erect altars to the god Raraa beneath its shade, and there, too,
the Brahmin instructe his scholars.
The oldest of these two trees, together with its famUy, afready
describes a cfrcumference of more than 600 feet, and the original
trunk raeasures nearly fifty feet round.
Adjoining the Botanical Garden is the Bishop's College, in which
the natives are frained as missionaries. After the Govemor's Palace,
it is the flnest buUding in Calcutta, and consists of two main buildings
and three wings. One of the main buildings is occupied by an ex
fremely neat chapel. The library, which is a noble-looking room,
contains a rich collection of the works of the best authors, and is
thrown open to the pupils; but thefr industry does not appear to
equal the magniflcence of the arrangements, for, on taking a book
from the bookcase, I immediately let it fall again and ran to the other
end of the room ; a swarm of bees had flo-wn upon me from out the
bookcase. The dining and sleeping rooms, as well as aU the other apartments,
are so richly and convemently furnished, that a person might easily
suppose that the esteblishment had been founded for the sons of the
richest EngUsh faraiUes, who were so aeeustoraed to corafort from.
their tenderest infancy that they were desirous of transplanting it to
all quarters of the globe ; but no one would ever imagine the place
had been buUt for " the labourers in the vineyard of the Lord."
I surveyed this splendid institution -with a sadder heart than I
might have done, because I knew it was intended for the natives, who
had flrst to put off thefr o-wn simple mode of life and accustom them
selves to convenience and superflmty, only to wander forth into the
woods and 'vrildemesses, and exercise thefr office in the midst of
savages and barbarians.
Among the sighte of Calcutta may be reckoned the garden of the
chief judge, Mr. Lawrence Peel, which is equaUy interesting to the
botanist and the amateur, and which, in rare flowers, plante, and
trees, is much richer than the Botanical Garden iteelf. The noble
park, laid out with consummate skill, the Inxui jant la'wns, interspersed K

148 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND' THE WORLD.
and bordered with flowers and plants, the crystal ponds, the shady
alleys, with thefr bosquete and gigantic trees, all combine to form a
perlect paradise, in the midst of which stands the palace of the fortu
nate owner.
Opposite this park, in the large vUlago of AUfaughur, is situated
a modest Uttie house, which is the birthplace of much that is good.
It contains a smaU surgery, and is inhabited by a native who has
studied medicine. Here the natives may obtain both ad-vice and
medicine tor nothing. This kind and benevolent arrangement is due
to Lady Julia Cameron, wife of the law member -.f the Supreme
Council of India, Charles Henry Cameron.
I had the pleasure of making this lady's acquaintance, and found
her to be, in evei-y respect, an ornament to her sex. Wherever there
is any good to be done, she is sure to take the lead. In the years
1846-7, she set on foot subscriptions for the starving Irish, writing to
the most distant provinces and calHng upon every EngUshman to
contribute his mite. In this manner she coUected the large sum of
80,000 rupees (£8,000.)
Lady Peel has distinguished herself also in the field of science,
and Burger's " Leonore" has been beautifuUy franslated by her into
English. She is also a kind mother and affectionate wife, and lives
only for her famUy, caring -little for the world. Many call her an
original ; would that we had a few more such originals !
I had brought no letters of recomraendation to this amiable
woman, but she happened to hear of my fravels and paid me a -visit.
In fact, the hospitaUty I met with here was really astonishing. I
was cordiaUy welcomed in the very flrst circles, and every one did aU
in his power to be of use to me. I eould not help thinking of Count
Rehberg, the Ausfrian minister at Rio Janefro, who thought he had
conferred a great mark of distinction by inviting me once to his vUla;
and, to pm-chase this honour, I had either to walk an hour in the
burning heat or to pay six mifreis (13s.) for a carriage. In Calcutta,
a carriage was always sent for me. I could relate a great raany more
anecdotes of the worthy count, who made me feel how much I was to
blame for not descending from a rich and aristocratio family. I expe
rienced different treatment from the member of the Supreme Council,
Charles Henry Cameron, and from the chief judge, Mr. Peel. These
gentleraen respected me for myself alone without froubHng their heads
about my ancestors.
During my stay in Calcutte, I was invited to a large party in
honour of Mr. Peel's birthday ; but I refused the invitation, as I had
no suitable dress. My excuse, however, was not aUowed, and I accom
panied Lady Cameron, ia a simple coloured muslin dress, to a party
where all the other ladies were di-essed in silk and satin and covered
with lace and jeweUery; yet no one was ashamed of me, but conversed
freely with me, and showed me every possible attention.
A veiy interesting promenade for a stranger is that to the Sfrand,
or " Maytown," as it is likewise called. It is skirted on one side by
the banks of the Hoogly, and on the other by beautiftd meado-ws,
beyond which is the noble Chaudrini Road, consisting of rows of
noM« pa^iices, and reckoned the finest quarter of Calcutta. Besides

CALCUTTA— VISIT TO A BABOO. 119
-this, there is a fine view of the goyemor's palace, the cathedi-al,
Qchlertony's monument, the magmficent reservoirs, Fort WilUam, a
fine pnitagon with extensive outworks, and many other remarkable
objects. Every evening, before sunset, aU the fashionable world of Calcutta
sfreams hitherward. The purse-proud European, the stuck-up Baboo
or Nabob, the deposed Rajah, are to be beheld driving in splendid
European carriages, foUowed by a multitude of servants, in Orientel
costume, some standing behind thefr carriages, and some running
before it. The Rajah^ and Nabobs are generaUy dressed in sU£
robes embroidered 'with gold, over which are thrown the most costly
Indian shawls. Ladies and gentiemen mounted upon EngHsh blood
horses gaUop along the meadows, wliUo crowds of natives are to be
seen laughing and joking on thefr way home, after the conclusion of
thefr day's work. Nor is the scene on the Hoogly less animated;
first-class East Indiamen are lying at anchor, unloading or being
cleaned ou.t, whUe numberless smaU craft pass continually to and ft-o.
I had been told that the population here suffered very much from
elephantiasis, and that nurabers of poor wretches with horribly
swoUen feet were to be seen at almost every tum. But this is not
true. I did not meet -with as many cases of the kind during five
weeks here, as I did in one day in Rio Janefro.
On one occasion I paid a -visit to a rich Baboo. The property of
the famUy, consisting of three brothers, was reckoned at £150,000.
The master of the house received me at the door, and accompanied me
to the reception-room. He was clad in a large dress of white musUn,
over which was wound a magnificent Indian shawl, which extended
from the hips to the feet, and made up for tho transparency of the
muslin. One end of the shawl was thrown over his shoulder in the
most picturesque manner.
The parlour was furnished in the European fashion. A large
hand organ stood in one comer, and in the other a spacious bookcase,
with the works of the principal EngUsh poets and phUosophers ; but
it struck me that these books were there more fbr show than use, for
the two volumes of Byron's works were tumed different ways, whUe
Young's Night Thoughts were stuck between. There were a few
engravings and pictures, which the worthy Baboo imagined to be an
ornament to the walls, but which were not of so much value as the
frames that contained them.
My host sent for his two sons, handsome boys, one seven and the
other four years old, and introduced them to me. I inqufred, although
it was qxdte confrary to custom to do so, after his wife and daughters.
Our poor sex ranks so low in the estimation of the Hindoos, that it is
almost an insidt to a person to mention any of his female relations.
He overlooked this in me, as a European, and immediately sent for
his daughters. The youngest, a most lovely baby six months old,
was nearly white, with large splendid eyes, the brUliancy of which
was greatly increased by the deUcate eyeUds, which w«re painted a
deep blue round the edges. The elder daughter, nine years old, had
a somewhat comraon coarse face. Her father,, who spoke tolerable
English, introduced her to me as a bride, and in-vited me to the
k2

150 A woman's journey EOUND THE WORLD.
marriage which was to take place in six weeks. I was so astonished
at this, considering the chUd's extreme youth, that I remarked he no
doubt meant her betrothal, but he assured me that she would then
be married and deUvered over to her husband.
On my asking whether the gfrl loved her intended bridegroom, I
was told that she would see him for the first time at the celebration
of the nuptials. The Baboo informed me further, that every person
like himself looked out for a son-in-law as soon as possible, and that
the younger a gfrl married the raore honourable was it accounted ;
an unraarried daughter was a disgrace to her father, who was looked
upon as possessed of no paternal love if he did not get her off his
hands. As soon as he has found a son-in-law, he describes his bodily
and mental quaUties as well as his worldly cfrcumstances to his wife,
and with this description she is obUged to content herself, for she is
never aUowed to see her future son-in-law, either as the befrothed, or
the husband of her child. The bridegroom is never considered to
belong to the famUy of the bride, but the latter leaves her o'wn
relations for those of her husband. No woman, however, is aUowed
to see or speak with the raaie relations of her husband, nor dare she
ever appear before the men-servante of her household without being
veiled. If she wishes to pay a visit to her mother, she is carried to
her shut up in a palanquin.
I also saw the Baboo's wife and one of his sisters-in-law. The
former was twenty-five years old and very corpulent, the latter was
fifteen and was slim and well made. The reason of this, as I was
told, is that the females, although married so young, seldom become
mothers before thefr fourteenth year, and until then preserve their
original sUmness. After their first confinement, they remain for six
or eight weeks shut up in thefr room, without taking the least exercise,
and Hving all the time on the most sumptuous and dainty food.
This fattening process generally produces the desired effect. The
reader must know that the Hindoos, Uke the Mahomedans, are
partial to corpulent ladies. I never saw any specimens of this kind
of beauty, however, among the lower classes.
The two ladies were not very decently attired. Thefr bodies and
heads were enveloped in ample blue and white muslin drapery, em
broidered with gold, and bordered -with lace of the same material as
broad as a man's hand, but the deUcate texture* was so etherial, that
every outUne of the body was visible beneath it. Besides this,
whenever they raoved thefr arras the muslin opened and displayed
not only their arm, but a portion of tiiefr bosom and body. They
appeared to pay a great deal of attention to their hafr ; their chief
care seemed to consist in replacing the musUn on thefr heads, when
ever it chanced to faU off. As long as a female is unmarried, she is
never aUowed to lay aside her head-dress.
These ladies were so overloaded with gold, pearls, and diamonds,
that they really resembled beasts of burden. Large pearls, with
other precious stones strung together, adorned thefr head and neck, as
likewise did hea-vy gold chains and mounted gold coins. Their ears,
• The flnest and most costly muslin is manufactured in tho province of Dacca, and
costs two rupees (4s.), or CTen two rupees and a half the ell.

CALCUTTA — VISIT TO A BABOO. 151
which were pierced all over — I counted twelve holes in one ear —
were so thickly laden with simUar ornamente, that the latter could
not be distinguished from one another ; aU that was to be seen was a
confused mass of gold, pearls, and diamonds. On each arm were
eight or ten costiy bracelets ; the principal one, which was four inches
broad, being composed of massive gold, with six rows of small
brilUants. I took it in my hand, and found that it weighed at least
half a pound. They had gold chains twisted three times round their
thighs, and thefr ankles and feet were also encircled with gold rings
and chains ; thefr feet were dyed -with henna.
The two ladies then brought me thefr jewel-cases, and showed me
a great many more valuable ornamente. The Hindoos must spend
iraraense suras in jewels and gold and sUver embroidered Dacca
musUn, as in these articles it is the endeavour of every lady to out
rival all her acquaintances. As they had anticipated ray arrival, the
two ladies were arrayed in thefr most costly apparel ; being deter
mined to exhibit theraselves to rae in true Indian splendour.
The Baboo also conducted me to the inner apartments looking
into the courtyard. Some of these were furnished only with carpets
and piUows, the Hindoos not being, in general, partial to chairs or
beds ; in others, were different pieces of European furniture, such as,
tables, chafrs, presses, and even bedsteads. A glass case containing
dolls, coaches, horses, and other toys, was pointed out to me -with
pecuUar satisfaction; both chUdren and women are very fond of
flaying with these things, though the women are more passionately
'ond of cards.
No married woman is aUowed to enter the rooms looking out upon
the street, as she might be seen by a man from the opposite windows.
The young bride, however, profited by her freedom, and tripping
before us to the open window, glanced into the busy street.
The -wives of tiie rich Hindoos, or of those belonging to the higher
castes, are as much confined to thefr houses as the Chinese women.
The only pleasure that the husband's strictness permits the wife to
enjoy, is to pay a visit, now and then, in a carefully closed palan
quin, to some friend or relation. It is only during the short time
that a woman remains unmarried that she is aUowed rather more
freedom. A Hindoo may have several wives ; there are, however, but few
examples of his avaUing himself of this privUege.
The husband's relations generally reside in the same house, but
each famUy has its separate household. The elder boys teke thefr
meals with thefr father, but the -wife, daughters, and younger boys
are not aUowed this privUege. Both sexes are extremely fond of
tobacco, which they smoke in pipes called hookas.
At the conclusion of my visit, I was offered sweetraeate, fmits,
raisins, &c. The sweetmeats were mostly composed of sugar, almonds,
and suet, but were not very palatable, owing to the predominance
ofthe suet.
-¦ Before leaving the house,, I visited the ground-^floor to examine
the room, in which, once a year,, the reHgious festival called Natch
is celebrated. This festival, which is the most important one in

I

158 .4, woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
the Hindoo religion, takes place in the beginning of 'October, and
lasts a fortnight, during whieh time neither poor nor rich do any
business whatever. The master closes his shops and warehouses,
and the servant engages a substitute, generally from among the
Mahomedans, and then both raaster and servant spend the fort
night, if not in fasting and prayer, most certainly in doing nothing
else. The Baboo inforraed me that on these occasions his room is richly
ornamented, and a statue of the ten-armed goddess Durga placed in
it. This statue is formed of clay or wood, painted with the most
glaring colours, and loaded with gold and silver tinsel, flowers,
ribbons, and often with even real jewellery. Hundreds of Ughte and
lamps, placed between vases and garlands of flowers, glitter in the
room, the court-yard, and outside the house. A nnmlier of different
animals are offered up as sacrifices ; they are not slain, however, in
the presence of the goddess, but in some retfred part of the house.
Priests attend upon the goddess, and female dancers di.'jplay thefr talent
before her, accompanied by the lond music of the tam-tam. Both
priests and danseuses are liberally paid. Some of the latter, like our
TagUonis and Elslers, eam large sums. During the period of my
stay here, there was a Persian danseuse, who never appeared for less
than 500 rupees (£50.) Crowds of the curious, among whom are
numbers of Europeans, ilockfrom one temple to another ; the principal
guests have sweetraeats and fruit served round to them.
On fhe last day of the festival the goddess is conveyed with great
pomp, and accompanied by music, to the Hoogly, where she is put
in a boat, rowed into the middle of the stream, and then thrown
overboard in the midst of the shouts and acclamations of the mul
titude upon fhe banks. Formerly, the real jewels were thrown in
along with the goddess, but carefully fished up again by the priests
during the night ; at present, the real jewels are replaced on the
last day by false ones, or else the founder of the feast takes an oppor
tunity of secretly obtaining possession of them during the goddess's
progress to the river. He is obliged to do this yery cautiously, how
ever, so as not to be observed by the people. A Natch often costs
several thousand rupees, and is one of the most costiy items in the
expenditure of the rich.
Marriages, too, are said to cost large sums of money. The
Brahmins observe the stars, and by thefr aid calculate the most
fortunate day and even hour for the ceremony to take place. It is,
however, frequently postponed, at the very last moment, for a few
hours longer, as the priest has taken fresh obser\'ations, aaid hit upon
a still luckier instant. Of course, such a discovery has to be paid for
by an extra fee.
There are several different feasts every year in honour of the
four-armed goddess Kally, especiaUy in the vUlage of Kalligiat,
near Calcutta. There were two during my stay. Before each hat
was placed a number of small clay idols, painted with various colours
and -representing the most horrible creatures. They were exposed
fhere. tor sale. The goddess Kally, as large as life, had got her
tongue thrust out as far as possible between her open js^ws ; Sue wa«

HINDOO DEAD-HOUSES. 15S
placed either befoi-e or inside the huts, and was riohly decorated with
-wreaths of flowers.
The temple of KaUy is a miserable buUding, or rather a dark
hole, from whose cupola-like roof rise several turrets : the statue here
-was remarkable for ite immense head and horribly long tongue. Its
face was painted deep-red, yellow, and dcy-blue. I was unable to
enter this god-like hole, as I was a woman, and as such was not
reckoned worthy of admission into so sacred a place as Kally's temple.
I looked in at the door with the Hindoo woman, and was quite
satisfled. The most horrible and disfa-esaing scenes occur in the Hindoo
dead-houses, and at the places where the corpses are burnt. Those
that I saw are situated on the banks of the Hoogly, near the to-wn,
and opposite to them is the wood market. The dead-house was
smaU, and contained only one room, in which were four bare bedsteads.
The dying person is brought here by his relations, and either placed
upon one of the bedsteads, or, if these are all f uU, on the floor, or, at a
push, even before the house in the buming suu. At the period of my
arrival, there were five persons in the house and two outside. The
latter were completely wrapped up in straw and woollen counter
panes, and I -thought they were already dead. On my asking
whether or no this was the ease, my guide threw off the clothes,
and I saw the poor wretches move. I think they must have beeaa
half-smothered under the mass of covering. Inside, on the fioor, lay
a poor old woman, the death-rattie in whose tiuroat proclaimed that
her end was fast approaching. The four bedsteads were likewise
occupied. I did not observe that the mouths and noses of these poor
creatures were stopped up with mud from the Ganges : this may,
perhaps, be the case in some other districts. Near the dying -persons
were seated their relations, quietiy amd sUentiy waiting to receive thefr
last breath. On my inquirin g whether nothing was ever given to theni,
I was told that if they did not die immemately, a small draught
of water from the Ganges was handed to them ft-om time to time,
but always decreasiing in quantity and at longer intervals, for when
once brought to these places, they must die at any price.
As soon as they are dead, and almost before they are cold, they
are taken to the place where they are burnt, and which is separated
from the high road by a waU. In .this place I saw one corpse and
one person at the -point of death, while on six funeral-piles were six
corpses with the flames flarinig on high all around them. A number
of birds, larger than turkeys, and called here philosophers,* sinall
vultures, and ravens were seated upon the neigjibouring trees and
house-tops, in anxious expectation of the half-'burnt corpses. I was
horrifled. I hurried away, and it was long before I .conld efface the
impression raade upon my mind by this hideous spectacle.
In the case of rich people, the burning e<f the body sometimes
costs more than a thousand rupees; the most costly wood, such as rose
and sandal wood, ibeiing emplcr^ed for that purpose. Besides this, a
Brahmm, music, and female mouiners, are necessary parte of the
,tjeremony. * The hurgila, a kind of stork, that eats deadliodies, and is frequently tote-seen^neiir
the rivers in India.

154 A woman's JOUENEY SOUND THB WORLD.
After the body has been burnt, the bones are collected, laid in a
vase, and thrown into the Ganges, or some other holy river. The
nearest relation is obUged to set flre to the pile.
There are naturally none of these ceremonies among poor people.
They simply bum their dead on common wood or cow-dung; and if
they cannot even buy these materials, they fasten a stone to the
corpse and throw it into the river.
I will here relate a short anecdote that I had from a very trust
worthy person. It may serve as an example of the atrocities that
are often committed from false ideas of reHgion.
Mr. N  was once, during his travels, not far from the Ganges,
and was accompanied by several servants and a dog. Suddenly the
latter disappeared, and all the calHng in the world woidd not bring
him back. He was at last discovered on the banks of the Ganges,
standing near a human body, which he kept Ucking. Mr. N 
went up and found that the man had been left to die, but had still
some spark of life left. He summoned his attendants, had the slime
and fllth washed off the poor -wretch's face, and -wrapped him well up.
In a few days after he was completely recovered. On Mr. N  's
now being about to leave him, the man begged and prayed him not to
do BO, as he had lost his caste, and would never more be recognised
by any of his relations ; in a word that he was completely wiped out
ofthe list of the Uving. Mr. N  took him into his service, and
the man, at the present day, is stiU in the enjoyment of perfect health.
The event narrated occurred years ago.
The Hindoos themselves acknowledge that thefr customs, with
regard to dying persons, occasion many involuntary murders ; but
thefr reUgion ordains that when the physician declares there is no
hope left, the person mnst die.
During my stay in Calcutta, I could leam no more of the manners
and customs of the Hindoos than what I have described, but I became
acquainted with some ofthe particulars of a Mahomedan marriage. On
the day appointed for the ceremony, the nuptial bed, elegantly orna
mented, is carried, with music and festivity, to the house of the bride
groom, and late in the evening, the bride herself is also conveyed
there in a close palanquin, with music and torches, and a large crowd
of friends, many of whom carry regular pyramids of tapers ; that
well known kind of flrework, the Bengal-flre, with its beautiful Hght-
blue flame, is also in requisition for the evening's proceedings.
On arriving at the bridegroom's house, the newly-married couple
alone are admitted; the rest remain outside playing, singing, and
haUooing until broad day.
I often heard Europeans remark that they considered the procession
of the nuptial couch extremely improper. But as the old saying goes
— " A man can see the mote in his neighbour's eye when he cannot
perceive the beam in his own ;" and it struck me that the manner in
which marriages are managed among the Europeans who are settied
here, is much more unbecoming. It is a rule with the EngUsh, that
on the day appointed for the marriage, which takes place towards
evening, the bridegroom shall not see his bride before he meets her
at the altar. An infringement of this regulation would be shocking.

EUROPEAN MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 155
In case the two who are about to marry should have anything to say
to each other, they are obliged to do so in writing. Scai-cely, how
ever, has the clergyman pronounced the benediction, ere the new
married couple aie packed off together in a carriage, and sent to
spend a week in some hotel in the vicinity of the town. For this
purpose, either the hotel at Barrackpore or one of two or three houses
at Gardenrich is selected. In case all the lodgings should be occu
pied, a cfrcumstance of by no means rare occurrence, since alraost all
marriages are celebrated in the months of November and December,
a boat containing one or two cabins is hfred, and the young people
are condemned to pass the next eight days completely shut up from
aU their friends, and even the parents themselves are not allowed
access to thefr chUdren.
I am of opinion that a gfrl's modesty must suffer much from these
coarse customs. How the poor creature must blush on entering the
place selected for her imprisonment ; and how each look, each grin
of the landlord, waiters, or boatmen, must wound her feeUngs !
The worthy Germans, who think everything excellent that does
not emanate from themselves, copy this custom most conscientiously.

CHAPTER xn.
BENAE3ES.
Dbpartukb fkou Calcutta — Entraa-cf. into the Ganoes — ^RAaMAaiAx — Gira — Jungheea
— MoNGHTR— Patna — Dbinapoor— Gksipoob — Benaees — Remgion of tjie Hindoos
— Desciuption op the Town — Palaces and Temples — The Hol-t Places— The
Holy Apes — The Ruins op Saiiani-h — An Indigo Plantation — A yisur to the
Rajah of BENAaEs— Mahttes .and Eakirs — Tme Indian Peasant — Tke MissiONAaT
EsXABLIoHMBNT.
On the 10th Of December, after a stay of more than five weeks, I left
Calcutta for Benares. The journey may be performed either by land,
or else by water, on the Ganges. By land, the distance is 470 miles ;
by water, 800 miles during the rainy season, and 465 mUes more
during the dry months, as the boate are compelled to take very cfr
cuitous routes to pass from the Hoogly, through the Sonderbunds, into
the Ganges.
The land journey is performed in post-palanquins, carried by men,
who, like horses, are changed every four or six railes. The traveller
proceeds by night as well as day, and at each stetion finds people
ready to receive him, as a circular from the post-offlee is always sent
a day or two before, to prepare them for his arrival. At night the
train is increased by the addition of a torch-bearer, to scare off the
wild beaste by the glare of his torch. The travelling expenses for
one person are about 200 rupees (£20), independent of the luggage,
which is reckoned separately.
The journey by water can be accomplished in steamers, one of
which leaves almost every week for Allahabad (135 miles beyond
Benares). The journey occupies from fourteen to twenty days, as, on
account of the numerous sand-banks, it is impossible for the vessel
to proceed on her com-se except in the day-time, and even then it is
by no means unusual for her to run aground, especially when the
water is low.
The fares to Benares are : first cabin, 257 rupees (£25 14s.) ; second
cabin, 216 mpees (£21 12s.). Pro-visions, without wine or spfrite,
three rupees (6s.) a day.
As 1 had heard so much of the magniflcent banks of the Ganges,
and of the importanit towns situated on them, I determined to go by
water. On the Sth of December, according to the advertisement, the
steamer " General Macleod," 140 horse-power, commanded by Captain
Kellar, was to leave her moorings ; but on going on board, I received
the gratifying intelligence that we should have to wait twenty-fom-
hours, which twenty-four hours were extended to as much again, so
tiiat we did not actually set off before 11 o'clock on the morning of

VOYAGE FROM CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 157
the 10th. We first proceeded do-wn the stream to the sea as far as
Katcherie, and on the foUowing day we rounded Mud Point, and
entered the Sonderbunds, where we beat about as far as Culna. From
there we proceeded up the Gui-y, a large tributary stream flowing
into the Ganges below Rumpm-bolea. During the first few days, tho
scenery was monotonous to the highest degree ; there were neither
towns nor villages to be seen ; the banks were flat, and the prospect
everywhere bounded by taU, thick bushes, which the EngUsh term
jungles, that is to say, " virgin forests." For my own part, I could
see no " -virgin fcwests,'' as by this term I understand a ,forest of
mighty frees. During the night, we heard, from time to time, the
ro£u-ing of tigers. These animals ai-e pretty abundant in these parte,
and frequently attack the natives if they happen to remain out late
wooding. I was shown the tattered fragment of a man's dress, hung
upon a bush, to commemorate the fact of a native having been torn
to pieces there by one of these beasts. But they are not the only foes
that man has to dread here ; the Ganges contains quite as deadly
ones, namely — the ravenous crocodiles. These may be seen in groups
of six or eight, sunning themselves on the slimy banks of the river or
on the numerous sandbanks. They vary in length from six to flfteen
feet. On the approach of the steamer, several started up, afeighted
by the noise, and gUded hastily into the dfrty- yellow stream.
The different branches of the Sonderbunds and the Gury are often
so narrow that there is hardly room for two vessels to pass each other;
while, on the other hand, they fi-equently expand into lakes that are
mUes across. In spite, too, of the precaution of only proceeding by
day, on accotmt of the numerous sandbanks and shallows, accidents
are of frequent occurrence. We om-selves did not come off Scot free.
In one of the narrow branches I have alluded to, whUe our vessel was
stopped to aUow another to pass, one of the two ships that we had in
tow came with such violence against the steamer, that the sides of a
cabin were driven in : luckily, however, no one was injured.
In another arm of the river, two native vessels were lying at an
chor. The crews were somewhat slow in perceiving us, and had not
time to raise their anchors before we came puffing up to them. The
captain did not stop, as he thought there -was room to pass, but tm-ned
the steamer's head so far in shore, that he ran into the bushes, and
left some of the bUnds of the cabin-windows suspended as trophies
behind him, whereat he was so enraged, that he immediately dis
patched two boats to out the poor creatures' hawsers, thereby causing
them to lose their anchors. This was another action worthy of a
European !
Near Culna (358 miles from the sea), we entered the Gory, a con
siderable tributary of the Ganges, which it flows into below Rumpur-
bolea. The jungles here recede, and their place is occupied by beau
tiful plantations of rice, and other vegetables. There was, too, no
scarcity of -villages, only the huts, which were mostly buUt of straw
and palm-leaves, were small and wretched. The a:p.pearance of the
steamer soon collected all the inhabitants, who left thefr fields and
huts and greeted it -with loud huzzas.
15th December. This evening we struck, for the flrst time, on a
sandbank. It cost us some trouble befbre we could get off again.

158 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
16th December. We had entered the Ganges yesterday. At a
late hour this evening we hove to near the little village of Comraer-
coUy. The inhabitants brought provisions of every description on
board, and we had an opportunity of becoraing acquainted with the
prices of the various articles. A flne wether cost four rupees (8s.) ;
eighteen fowls, a rupee (2s.) ; a flsh, weighing several pounds, an
annas (i-id.) ; eight eggs, an annas ; twenty oranges, two annas (3d.) ;
a pound of fine bread, three beis {\d.) ; and yet, in spite of these ludi
crously cheap prices, the captain charged each passenger three rupees
(6s.) a-day for his board, whieh was not even passable ! Many of the
passengers raade purchases here of eggs, new bread, and oranges, and
the captain was actuaUy not ashamed to let these articles, which were
paid for out of our own pockets, appear at his table that we aU paid
so dearly for.
18th December. Bealeah, a place of considerable importance,
noted for the number of its prisons. It is a depot for criminals,* who
are sent here from all parte. The prisoners here cannot be so desfrous
cf escaping as those in Europe, for I saw numbers of them, very
slightly ironed, wandering about in groups or alone, in the place itself
and ite vicinity, without having any gaolers with them. They are
properly taken care of, and employed in various kinds of light work.
There is a paper manufactory, which is almost entfrely carried on by
them. The inhabitants appeared to possess a more than usual degree of
fanaticism. I and another passenger, Herr Lau, had gone to take a
walk in the place, and were about to enter a smaU street in which
there was a Hindoo temple ; but no sooner, however, did the people
perceive our intention, than they set up a horrible yeUing, and pressed
on us so closely, that we held it advisable to restrain our curiosity and
turn back.
19th December. To-day we perceived the low ranges of the
Rajmahal HUls, the first we had seen since we left Madras. In the
evening, we were again stuck fast upon a sandbank. We remained
tolerably quiet during the night, but, as soon as it was morning,
every possible means were adopted to get us off again. The vessels
we had in tow were cast off, our steam got up to ite highest piteh ;
the sailors, too, exerted themselves indefatigably, and at noon we
were stuck just as fast as we were the evening before. About this
time, we perceived a steamer on its way from Allahabad to Calcutta ;
but our captain hoisted no signals of distress, being very much vexed
that he should be seen by a comrade in such a position. The captain
of the other vessel, however, offered his assistance of his own accord ;
but his offer was coldly and curtly refused, and it was not untU after
several hours of the most strenuous exertion that we succeeded in
getting off the bank into deep water.
In the course ofthe day, we touched at Rajmahal,! a large village,
which, on account of the thick woods and numerous swamps and mo
rasses around it, is reckoned a most unhealthy place.
It was here that Gur, one of the largest towns of India, once
* At the period of my visit there were aboat 782 of them.
-t Rajmahal was, in the seventeenth century, the capital of BengAI.

THE RUINS OF GUR. ISD
stood. It is said to have been twenty square miles in extent, and to
have contained about two milUons of inhabitants, and, according to
the latest books of travels, the most splendid and considerable ruins
are still to be seen there. Those of the so-called " Golden Mosque "
are especiaUy remarkable, being very fine and faced with marble; the
gateways are celebrated for thefr great width of span and the solidity
of thefr side walls.
As there was, fortunately, a depot for coals here, we were allowed
a few hours to do as we liked. The younger passengers seized the
opportunity to go out shooting, being attracted by the splendid forests,
the flnest I had as yet seen in India. It was certainly reported that
they were very much infested with tigers, but this deterred no one.
I also engaged in the chase — although it was one of a different
description. I peneti-ated far and wide, through forest and swamp,
in order to discover the mins. I was successful ; but how meagre
and -wretched they were ! The most important were those of two
common city-gates, buUt of sandstone and ornamented with a few^
handsome sculptures, but without any arches or cupolas. One incon
siderable temple, with four corner towers, was in several places
covered with very, flne cement. Besides these, there were a few other
ruins or single fragmente of buildings and pillars scattered around,
but aU of them together do not cover a space of two square miles.
On the border of the forest, or some hundred paces farther in,
were situated a number of hute belonging to the natives, approached
by pictm-esque paths running beneath shady avenues of frees. In
Bealeah, the people were very fanatic, while here the raen were very
jealous. At the conclusion of my excursion, one of the gentlemen
passengers had joined me, and we dfrected our steps towards the
habitations of the natives. As soon as the men saw my companion,
they called out to thefr -wives, and ordered thera to take refuge in the
huts. The women ran in from all dfrections, but remained very
quietiy at the doors of thefr dweUings to see us pass, and quite forgot
to conceal thefr faces while they did so.
In these parte, there are whole woods of cocoa-palms. This tree is
properly a native of India, where it attains a height of eighty feet,
and bears fruit in its sixth year. In other countries, it is scarcely
fifty feet high, and does not bear fruit before it is twelve or flfteen
years old. This free is, perhaps, the raost useful one in the known
world. It produces large and nutritious fruit, excellent mUk, large
leaves that are used for covering in androoflng huts, materials for strong
cordage, the clearest oil for buming, mate, woven stuffs, colouring
matter, and even a kind of drink called surr, toddy, or palm brandy,
and obtained by incisions made in the crown of the tree, to which,
during an entire month, the Hindoos cHmh up every moming and
evening, making incisions in the stem and hanging pots underneath
to catch the sap which oozes out. The rough condition of the bark
faciUtetes considerably the task of cHmbing up the tree. The Hindoos
tie a strong cord round the trunk and thefr own body, and another
round thefr feet, which they fix firmly against the tree ; they then
raise themselves up, drawing the upper rope with thefr hands and
the lower one with the pointe of their feet, after them. I have seen

160 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
them, climb the highest frees in this manner -with the greatest ease in
two minutes at the most. Round then- bodies they have a belt, to
which are suspended a knife and one or two small jars.
The sap is at first quite clear, and agreeably sweet, but begins, in
six or eight hours' time, to ferment, and then assumes a whitish tint,
while' its flavour becomes disagreeably acid. From this, with the
addition of some rice, is manufactured strong arrack. A good tree
wUl yield above a gaUon of this sap in four-and-twenty hours, but
dming the year in which the sap is thus exfracted, it bears no fruit.
21st December. About 80 miles below Rajmahal, we passed three
rather steep rocks rising out of the Ganges. The largest is about
sixty feet high ; the next in size, which is overgrown with bushes,
is the residence of a Fakfr, whom the true believers supply with pro
visions. We could not see the holy man, as it was beginning to grow
dark as we passed. This, however, did not cause us so much regret,
as that we were unable to visit the Botanical Garden at Bogulpore,
which is said to be the finest in aU India; but as there was no coal
depot at Bogulpore, we did not stop. ,
On the 22nd of December, we passed the remarkable mountain
scenery of Junghera, which rises, like an island of rocks, from the
majestic Ganges. This spot was, in former times, looked on as the
holiest in the whole course of the river. Thousands of boats and
larger vessels were constantly to be seen there, as no Hindoo beUeved
he could die in peace without having visited the place. Numerous
Fakfrs had estabUshed themselves here, strengthening the poor pU
grims with unctuous exhortations, and taking in return thefr pious
gifts. The neighbourhood has, however, at present, lost its reputa
tion for sanctity, and the offerings received are scarcely sufficient to
maintain two or three Fakfrs.
In the evening we stopped near Monghyr,* a tolerably large town,
with some old fortifications. The most conspicuous object is a ceme
tery, crowded with raonuraents. The monuments are so pecuHar, that
had I not seen similar ones in the cemeteries of Calcutta, I should
never have imagined that they belonged to any sect of Christians.
There were temples, pyramids, immense catafalques, kiosks, &c., aU
massively built of tiles. The extent of this cemetery is quite dispro
portioned to the number of Europeans in Monghyi-; but the place is
said to be the most unhealthy in India, so that when a European is
ordered there for any number of years, he generaUy takes a last
fareweU of aU his friends.
Six miles hence, tiiere are some hot springs, which are looked
upon by the natives as sacred.
We had lost sight of the Rajmahal Hills at Bogulpore ; on both
sides of the river, nothing was now to be seen but an uninterrupted
succession of flat plains.
24tii December. Patiia,t one of the largest and most ancient
• Monghyr is termed the BirminBham of India, on account of its extensive manufac
tories of cutlery and weapons. Its population is about 80,000 souls.
-t Patna is the capital of the pro-rince of " Bechai-," and -was once celebrated for tho
number- of itS' Buddhist temples. Near Patna -was situated the most famous to-wn of
ancient Indio, namely, "Earlibothia," Patna contains a gi-eat many cotton, and a fe-w
opium factories.

PATNA, 181
cities of Bengal, with a population of about 300,000 souls,* consists of
a long, broad sfreet, eight miles long, with numerous short alleys
running into it. The houses, which ai-o mostly consfructed of mud,
struck me as particularly small and wretched. Under the projecting
roofs are exposed for sale goods and provisions of the simplest kind.
That part of the street in which the greatest number of these miser
able shops are situated, is dignified by the grand narae of the
" Bazaar." The few houses of a better description might easUy be
counted -without any very great trouble; they are buUt of tiles, and
surrounded by wooden galleries and colonnades pi^ettily carved. In
these houses were to be found the best and finest shops.
The temples of the Hindoos, tiic Ghauts (flights of steps, halls,
and gateways) on the Ganges, like the mosques of the Mahomedams,
always look a great deal better at a distance than they do on a nearer
inspection. The only objects worthy of notice which I saw here,
were a few beU-shaped mausoleums, ake those in Ceylon, which they
greatiy surpassed m size, although not in artistic beauty ; they were
certainly more than 200 feet in circumference, and eighty feet in
height. Excessively narrow entrances, with simple doors, conduct
into the interior. On the outside, two small flights of steps, forming
a seuucfrcle, lead up to the top. The doors were not opened for us,
and we were obliged to content ourselves with the assurance that,
with the exception of a small, plain sarcophagus there was nothing
inside. Patna is a place of great importance, from the frado in opium, by
which raany of the natives acqufre large fortunes. As a general rule,
they make no display of their riches, either as regards their clothes,
or in any other pubUc kind of luxury. There are only two sorte of
dress — one for those in easy cfrcumstances, which is like that of the
Orientals, and one for the poorest classes, which consists of a piece of
cloth bound round the loins.
The principal sfreet presents a bustling appearance, being much
frequented by carriages, as weU as pedestrians. The Hindoos, Uke
the Jews, are such determined foes to walking, that they do not
think the worst place in the most wretched cart beneath thefr
acceptance. 'The vehicles in most general use are narrow, wooden ears upon
two wheels, and composed of four posts with cross-beams. Coloured
woollen stuff is hung over these, and a kind of canopy keeps off the
sun. There is properly only room for two persons, although I have
seen three or four crowded into them. This put me in mind of the
Italians, who fill a carriage so that not even the steps are left vacant.
These cars are oaUed baih. They are closely curtained when women
travel in them.
I expected to see the streets here ftdl of camels and elephants,
since I had read so much about it in some descriptions : but I saw
only baiUs drawn by oxen and a few horsemen, but neither camels
nor elephants,
• In all Indian, Mahomedan, and in fact all countries -which are not Christian, it is
a very difflcult task to obtain anything lilte an exact calculation of the number of inhabi
tants, as no^in^ is more hateful to the population than such computations.

103 A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
Towards evening we drove to Deinapore,* which is eight mUes
from Patna, along an excellent post-road, planted with handsome
trees. Deinapore is one of the largest EngHsh miUtary stations, and con
tains extensive barracks, which almost constitute a town in them
selves. The town is but a short distance from the barracks. There
are many Mahomedans among the inhabitants, who surpass the
Hindoos in industry and perseverance.
I here saw elephants for the first time on the Indian continent.
In a serai outside the town there were eight large handsome ani
mals. When we retumed to the ship in the evening, we found it like a
camp. All kinds of articles were brought there and laid out for inspec
tion ; but the shoemakers were particularly numerous. Their work
appeared neat and lasting, and remarkably cheap. A pair of men's
boots, for example, cost from one and a half to two rupees (3s. to
4s.) ; but it is true that twice as much is always asked for them. I
saw on this occasion the way in which the European sailors conduct
bargains with the natives. One of the engineers wanted to buy a
pair of shoes, and offered a quarter of the price asked. The seUer, not
consenting to this, took his goods back ; but the engineer snatched
them out of his hand, threw down a few beis more than what he had
offered, and hastened to his cabin. The shoeraaker pursued him, and
demanded the shoes back ; instead of which he received several tough
blows, and was threatened that if he was not quiet he should be com
pelled to leave the ship immediately. The poor creature retumed half
crying to his pack of goods.
A similar occurrence took place on the same evening. A Hindoo
boy brought a box for one of the travellers, and asked for a small
payment for his trouble ; he was not listened to. The boy remained
standing by, repeating his request now and then. He was driven
away, and as he would not go qtdetly, blows were had recourse to.
The captain happened to pass aecidentelly, and asked what was the
matter. The boy, sobbing, told hira ; the captain shrugged his shoul
ders, and the boy was put out of the ship.
How many similar and even raore provoking incidents have I
seen ? The so-eaUed " barbarian and heathen people" have good
reason to hate us. Wherever the Europeans go they will not give
any reward, but only orders and commands ; and their rule is gene
rally much more oppressive than that of the natives.
26th December. The custom of exposing dying people on the
banks of the Ganges, does not appear to bo so general as some
traveUers stete. We saUed on the river for fourteen days, during
which time we passed many thickly populated towns and villages,
and did not meet with a single case untU to-day. The dying man
lay close to the water, and several men, probably his relations, were
seated round him, awaiting his decease. One dipped water and mud
out of the river with his hands, and put them to the nose and mouth
of the dying man. The Hindoos believe that if they die at the river
? I landed with two travellers at Patna, and rode on to Deinapore in the evening-,
where our steamer anchored for the night.

GHAZIPOOE— BENABES. 168
with thefr mouths full of the holy water, tiiey are quite certain to go
to heaven. His relations or friends remain by the dying man tUl
sunset, when they go home, and leave him to his fate. He generaUy
falls a prey to crocodUes. I very seldom saw any fioating corpses ;
only two during the whole journey. Most of the corpses are burnt.
27th December. Ghazipoor is an important place, and is remark
able at a distance for its handsome ghauts. Here stands a pretty
monument erected to the memory of Lord ComwalUs, who conquered
Tippoo Saib in 1790. Very near is a large estabUshment for training
horses, which is said to turn out remarkably fine ones. But Ghazipoor
is most remarkable for its enormous rose-fields, and the rose-water
and attar prepared here. The latter is obtained in the foUowing
manner : —
Upon forty pounds of roses, -with the eaUxes, sixty pounds of water
are poured, and the whole is distUled over a slow fire. Frora this,
about thfrty pounds of rose-water are obtained. Another forty pounds
of roses are again added to this, and, at the utmost, twenty pounds of
water distiUed off. This is then exposed during the night to the cold
afr in pans, and in the morning the oil is found swimming upon the
surface and is skimmed off. Not more than an ounce and a half of
attar, at the utmost, is obtained from eighty pounds of roses. An
ounce of true attar costs, even at Ghazipoor, 40 rupees (£4),
At 10 o'clock on the moming of the 28th, we at length reached
the holy town of Benares. We anchored near Radschgaht, where
coolies and camels were ready to receive us.
Before taking leave of the Ganges, I must remark that, dming
the whole journey of about a thousand miles, I did not meet with a
single spot remarkable for ite especial beauty, or one picturesque view.
The banks are either flat or bounded by layers of earth ten or twenty
feet in height, and, fiirther inland, sandy plains alternate with plan
tations or dried-up meadows and miserable jungles. There are, indeed,
a great number of towns and -vUlages, but, with the exception of occa
sional handsome houses and the ghauts, they are composed of a col
lection of huts. The river iteelf is frequently di-vided into several
branches, and is sometimes so broad that it resembles a sea rather
than a river, for the banks are scarcely visible.
Benares is the most sacred town of India. It is to the Hindoos
what Mecca is to the Mahomedans, or Rome to the Catholics. The
belief of the Hindoos in its holiness is such that, according to thefr
opinion, every man wUl be saved who remains twenty-four hours in
the town, without reference to his religion. This noble toleration is
one of the flnest features in the reHgion and character of this people,
and puts to shame the prejudices of many Christian secte.
The number of pUgrims amounts annually to 300,000 or 400,000,
and the to-wn is one of the most wealthy in the country, through
their frading, sacrifices, and gifts.
This may not be an improper place to make some reraarks upon
the reUgion of these interesting people, which I extract from Zimmer-
inan's " Handbook of Travels."
" The foundation of the Hindoo faith is the beUef in a superior
primitive being, immortaUty, and a reward of vfrtue. The chief idea
L

164 A woman's journey SOUND THE WORLD.
of God is so great and beautiful, ite moral so pure and elevated, that
its equal has not been found among any othra people.
" Thefr creed is to worship the highest Being, to invoke thefr guar
dian gods, to be weU-disposed towards thefr feUow-men, to pity the
unfortunate and help them, to bear patiently the inconveniences of
Ufe, not to He or break thefr word, to read the sacred histories and to
giye heed to them, not to talk much, to fast, pray, and to bathe at
stated periods. These are the general duties which the sacred writings
of the Hindoos enforce, -without exception, upon aU castes or sects.
" Thefr true and only god is called ' Brahma,' which must not be
confounded -with Brahma who was created by the former, who is the
true, eternal, holy, and unchangeable Hght of aU time and space. The
wicked are punished and the good rewarded.
" Out of the Eternal Being proceeded the goddess Bhavani, i. e..
Nature, and a host of 1,180 million spfrite. Among these there are
three denU-gods or superior spfrits, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, the
Hindoo Trinity, called by them Trimurti.
" For a long time, happiness and content prevaUed; but they after
wards revolted, and many gave up thefr allegiance. The rebels were cast
down frora on high into the pit of darkness. Hereupon succeeded the
fransmigration of souls ; every animal and every plant was animated
by one of the fallen angels, and the remarkable amiabUity of the
Hindoos towards animals is owing to' this belief. They look upon
them as their feUow-creatures, and wiU not put any of them to death.
" The Hindoo reverences the great purpose of nature, the produc*
tion of organized bodies, in the most disinterested and pious manner.
Everything tending to this end is to him venerable and holy, and it
is in this respect alone that he worships the Lingam.
" It may be affirmed, that the superstitions of this creed have only
graduaUy become an almost senseless delusion through corruption
and misunderstanding.
" In order to judge of the present state of thefr religion, it wiU be
sufficient to describe the figures of a few of their chief deities.
" Brahma, as the creator of the world, is represented with four
human heads and eight hands ; in one hand he holds the scriptures,
in the others, various idols. He is not worshipped in any temple,
ha-ving lost this prerogative on account of his ambitious desire to find
out the Supreme Being. However, after repenting of his folly, it waa
permitted that the Brahmins might celebrate some festivals in his
honour, called Poutsche.
" Vishnu, as the maintainer of the world, is represented in twenty-
one different forms : — Half fish half man, as tortoise, haU Uon half
man, Buddha, dwarf, &o. The -wife of Vishnu is worshipped as the
goddess of fiTUtfulness, plenty, and beauty. The cow is considered
sacred to her.
" Shiva is the desfroyer, revenger, and the conqueror of Death. He
has, therefore, a double character, beneficent or terrible ; he rewards
or pimishes. He is generaUy hideously represented, entirely sur
rounded by lightning, with three eyes, the largest of which is in the
forehead; he has also eight arms, in each of which he holds some
thing.

RELIGION OP THE HINDOOS. 165
" Although these three deities are equal, the reUgion ofthe Hindoos
is divided into only two sects — the worshippers of Vishnu and those
of Shiva. Brahma has no peculiar sect, since he is denied temples
and pagodas ; however, the whole priestiy caste — the Brahmins — may
be considered as his worshippers, since they afBrm that that proceeded
fi-om his head.
"The worshippers of Vishnu have on thefr foreheads a red or yel
lowish painted sign of the Jani ; the Shiva worshippers, the sign of
the Lingam, or an obeUsk, triangle, or the sun.
" 333,000,000 subordinate deities are recognised. They control the
elements, natural phenomena, the passions, acts, diseases, &o. They
are represented in different forms and having aU kinds of atfributes.
" There are also genU, good and e-vil spfrits. The number of the
good exceeds that of the bad by about 3,000,000.
" Other objects are also considered sacred by the Hindoos, as rivers
especiaUy the Ganges, which is beUeved to have been formed from
the sweat of Shiva. The water of the Ganges is so highly esteemed,
that a trade is carried on in it for raany raUes inland.
" Among animals, they chiefiy look upon the cow, ox, elephant,
ape, eagle, swan, peacock, and serpent, as sacred; araong plants,
the lotus, the banana, and the mango-free.
" The Brahmins have an especial veneration for a stone, which is,
according to Sonnerat, a fossU aramonite in slate.
" It is in the highest degree remarkable that there is no repre
sentation of the Supreme Being to be found in all Hindostan. The
idea appears too great for them ; they consider the whole earth as his
temple, and worship him under all forms.
" The adherents of Shiva bury thefr dead; the others either bui-n
them or throw them into the river."
No one can form an accurate idea of India who has not gone beyond
Calcutta. This city has become almost European. The palaces, the
equipages are European ; there are societies, balls, concerts, prome
nades, almost the same as in Paris or London ; and if it was not for the
ta-wny natives in the sfreets, and the Hindoo servants in the houses,
a stranger might easily forget that he was in a foreign country.
It is very different in Benares. The Europeans are isolated there;
foreign customs and manners everywhere surround them, and remind
them that they are tolerated intruders. Benares .contains 300,000
inhabitante, of which scarcely 150 are Europeans.
The town is handsome, especiaUy when seen frora the river side,
where ite defects are not observed. Magnificent rows of steps, built
of colossal stones, lead up to the houses and palaces, and artisticaUy
buUt gateways. In the best part of the to-wn, they form a con
tinuous line two mUes in length. These steps cost enormous sums of
money, and a large town might have been buUt with the stones
employed for them.
The handsome part of the town contains a great number of antique
palaces, in the Moorish, Gothic, and Hindoo styles, many of which are
ax stories high. The gates are most magnificent, and the fronts ofthe
palaces and houses are covered with masterly arabesques and seulp-
L 2

166 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
tiired work ; the different stories are richly ornamented -with fine colon
nades, verandahs, balconies, and fiiezes. The windows alone did not
please me ; they were low, small, and seldom regularly arranged. All
the houses and palaces have very broad sloping roofs and terraces.
The innumerable temples afford a proof of the wealth and piety of
the inhabitants of this town. Every Hindoo in good cfrcumstances
has a temple in his house, i. e., a smaU tower, which is ft-equently only
twenty feet high.
The Hindoo teraples consist properly of a tower thirty or sixty feet
in height, -without windows, and having only a smaU entrance.
They appear, especiaUy at a distance, very striking and handsome,
as they are either artistically sculptured or richly covered with
projecting ornaments, such as pinnacles, smaU columns, pyramids,
leaves, niches, &c.
Unfortunately, many of these beautiful buildings are in ruins.
The Ganges here and there undermines the foundations, and palaces
and temples sink into the soft earth or fall entirely down. Miserable
little huts are in some places buUt upon these ruins, and disflgure the
fine appearance of the town, for even the ruins themselves are still
beautiml. At sunrise, a spectacle is to be seen at the river which has not its
counterpart in the world. The pious Hindoos come here to perform
thefr devotions ; they step into the river, tm-n towards the sun,
throw three handsful of water upon thefr heads, and mutter thefr
prayers. Taking into account the large popidation which Benares
contains, besides pUgrims, it will not be exaggeration to say that the
daUy number of devotees amounts, on the average, to 50,000 persons.
Numbers of Brahmins sit in small kiosks, or upon blocks of stone on
the steps, close to the water's edge, to receive the charity of the
wealthy, and grant them absolution in retum.
Every Hindoo must bathe at least once in the day, and particularly
in the morning ; if he is pious and has time, he repeate the ceremony
again in the evening. The women bathe at home.
At the time of the festival called Mala, when the concourse of
pUgruns is innumerable, the steps are crowded with masses of human
beings, and the river appears as if covered with black spots from the
number of the bathers' heads.
The interior of the city is far less handsome than that portion
whioh extends along the Ganges. It contains many palaces; but
these have not the same beautiful gateways, colonnades, and veran
dahs as thpse afready described. Many of these buildings are covered
with fine cement, and others are painted with miserable ft-escoes.
The streete are for the most part both dirty and ugly, and many
of them are so narrow, that there is scarcely room for a palanquin to
pass. At the corner of almost every house stands the figure of the
god Shiva.
Among the temples in the town, the handsomest is the "Bis-vishas :"
it has two towers connected by colonnades, with their summite covered
with golden plates. The temple is surrounded by a waU, but we were
allo-vved to enter the fore-com-t, and to go as far as the enfrance. We
saw inside several images of Vishnu and Sluva, wreathed with flowers, .

^^:

,Lt

1 \ \

^ii

BENARES — THE HOLY PLACES. Iff?
and sfrewn over with grains of rice, wheat, &c. Small buUs of metal
or stono stood in the porch, and living white bulls (of whith I counted
eight) wandered about at Uberty. The latter are considered sacred,
and are oUowed to roam where they please, and are not prevented
from satisfying their hunger with even the sacrificial flowers and corn.
These sacred aniraals do not remain in the temples only — they
wander about the streets ; and the people tm-n reverently out of their
way, and frequently give thera fodder. They do not, however, aUow
thera to eat the corn exposed for sale, as was formerly the case. If
one of the sacred animals happen to die, it is either thrown into the
river or bm-nt. They receive in this respect the same honour as the
Hindoos themselves.
In the temple, there were men and women who had brought
flowers, -with which they decorated the images. Some of them also
laid a piece of money under the flowers. They then sprinkled them
over with Ganges' water, and strewed rice and other corn about.
Near the temple are the most holy places in the town, namely —
the so-caUed " holy well" and the Mankarnika, a large basin of water.
The foUo-wing anecdote is told of the forraer : —
When the EngUsh had conquered Benares, they planted a cannon
before the entrance of the temple to destroy the image of the god
Mahadeo. The Brahmins, greatly indignant at this, instigated tho
people to revolt, and they hastened in numerous crowds to the temple.
The English, to prevent a disturbance, said to the people : " If your god
is stronger than the Christian God, the balls wiU not hurt hira ; but
if not, he will be broken to pieces." Of course, the latter was the
result. The Brahmins, however, did- not give up their cause, but
declared that they had seen the spfrit of thefr god leave the idol be
fore the cannon was flred, and plunge into the spring near at hand.
From this time the spring was considered sacred.
The Mankarnika is a deep basin, paved with stone, about sixty
feet long, and of equal breadth; broad steps lead from the four
sides into the water. A simUar tradition, but connected with tiie god
Shiva, is attached to this place. Both deities aro said to have con
tinued to reside in these waters down to the present day. Every
pilgrim who visits Benares must, on his arrival, bathe in this holy
pool, and, at the same time, make a small offering. Several Brahmins
are always present to receive these gifts. They are in no way dis
tinguished by thefr dress from the bulk of the better classes, but the
colour of thefr skin is clearer, and many of them have very noble
features. Fifty paces from this pool, on the banks of the Ganges, stands a
remarkably handsome Hindoo temple, with three towers. Unfor
tunately, the ground sunk in a few years since, and the towers were
thrown out of their proper position : one inclines to the right and the
other to the left ; the thfrd is ahnost sunk into the Ganges.
Among the thousand of other teraples, there is here and there one
which is worth the frouble of a cursory inspection, but I would not
advise any one to go much out of thefr way on thefr account. The
place for burning the dead is very near the holy pool. When we
went there, they were just roasting a corpse — the mode of buming

168 A woman's journey EOUND THE WORLD.
cannot be described by any other name, the flre was so small, and the
corpse projected over on all sides.
Among the other bmldings, the Mosque Aurang Zeb is most
worthy of the notice of fraveUers. It is famous on account of its two
minarete, which are 150 feet high, and are said to be the slenderest in the
world. "They look Uke two needles, and certainly are more descr-ving
of the name than that of Cleopafraat Alexandria. Narrow winding
stafrcases in the interior lead to the top, upon which a small platform,
with a balustrade a foot high, is erected. It is fortunate for those
who are not subject to dizziness. They can venture out, and take a
bird's-eye view of the endless sea of houses, and the innumerable
Hindoo temples ; the Ganges also, with ite step quays, mUes long,
Ues exposed below. I was told that on very clear, fine days, a distant
chain of mountains was perceivable — the day was flne and clear, but
I could not see the mountains.
The observatory is a very remarkable and artistic bmlding. It
was buUt by Dscheising, under the inteUigent Emperor Akbar, more
than two centuries since. There are no ordinary telescopes to be
found there : all the instrumente are constructed of massive blocks of
stone. Upon a raised terrace, to which stone steps lead, stand circular
tables, semicircular and quadratic curves,, &c. which are covered with
signs, writing, and lines. With these instruments, the Brahmins
made, and stiU make, thefr observations and calculations. We met
with several Brahmins busUy engaged with calculations and written
freatises. Benares is on the whole the chief seat of Indian leaming. Among
the Brahmins, 6,000 in number, I was told there were many who give
instruotion in astronomy, Sanscrit, and other scientific subjects.
The sacred apes are another of the curiosities of Benares. Thefr
principal location is upon some of the immense mango-frees in the
suburbs of Durgakund. The animals seemed as if they knew we had
corae to see them, for they approached quite close to us ; but when
the servant, whom I had sent for some food for them, returned, and
called them to him, it was amusing to see the merry creatures come
running from the trees, the roofs of the houses, and the streete. We
were in a moment closely surrounded by several hundreds, who fought
together in the most comical manner for the fruits and grain. The
largest or oldest acted as commander. Wherever there was quar
relling, he rushed in, and commenced thrashing the combatants,
threatening them -with his teeth, and making a muttering sound, upon
which they immediately separated. It was the largest and most comiT
cal party of monkeys I ever saw. They were generaUy more than
two feet high, and thefr skins were a dirty yellow colour.
My kind host took me one day to Samath (five mUes from Be-
naresj, where there are some interesting ruins of three remarkably
massive towers. They are not particularly high, and stand upon
three artifloially raised mounds, a mUe distant from each other. Both
the mounds and towers are constructed of large bricks. The largest
of tiiese towers is stiU covered in many places -with stone slabs, on
whioh traces of arabesques are here and there visible. Numbers of
elabs lie scattered about the ground. There are no signs of any such

AN INDIGO PLANTATION. 103
covering on the remaining towers. In each there is a small door and
a single apartment.
Excavations were commenced beneath these towers by the English
govamment in the hope of making some discoveries which would
throw Ught upon the origin of these buUdings ; but nothing was
found beyond an empty underground vault.
There is a lake close by of artificial construction, which is suppUed
with water from the Ganges by a canaL
There is a very singular tradition connected -with these towers
and the lake. " In very ancient times three brothers ruled here,
who were giante, and had these buildings erected and the lake ex
cavated, and aU in one day. It must, however, be known that a day
at that time was equal to two years of modem reckoning. The
giants were so tall that they could go from one tower to the other
with a step, and the reason these were buUt so close was thefr fond
ness for each other, and their desire to be always together."
An indigo plantation in the neighbourhood, the first I ever saw, was
not less interesting to me than these towers and tiiefr singular fradition.
The indigo plant is herbaceous, and from one to tiiree feet high,
with deUcate bluish-green leaves. The harvest is generally in
August ; the plante are cut tolerably low on the principal stem, tied
together in bundles, and thro-wn into large wooden vats. Planks are
laid on the tops of the bundles weighted with stones, and water
poured on them ; generally after sixteen hours, though soraetiraes
after several days, according to the character of the water, fermen
tation commences. This is the principal difficulty, and everything
depends upon ite continuance for the proper time. When the water
has acquired a dark-green colour, it is transferred to other wooden
vessels, Ume added, and the whole stirred with wooden spades until a
blue deposit takes place. After being aUowed to settle, the water is
poured off, and the substance remaining behind is put into long Hnen
bags through which the moisture filters. As soon as the indigo is
dry, it is broken in pieces and packed.
Shortly before my departure I had the pleasure of being presented
to the Rajah through the aid of my feUow-traveUer, Mr. Law. He
resides in the Citadel Rharanughur, which Ues on the left bank of
the Ganges, above the town.
A handsomely ornamented boat awaited us at the bank of the
river, and on the otiier side a palanquin. We soon found ourselves
at the entrance of the palace, the gateway of which is lofty and
majestic. I expected to have been gratified in the interior by the
sight of spacious courts and a handsome style of architecture, but
found only irregular courte and smaU unsymmetrical apartments, desti
tute of all taste and luxury. In one of the courts was a plain-columned
haU on the level of the ground, which served as a reception-room.
This hall was overcrowded -with glass lustres, lamps, and European
fiimiture; on the waUs were some miserable pictures, framed and
glazed. Outside was a swarm of servants, who gazed at us with great
attention. Presently the prince made his appearance, accompanied
by his brother, and some courtiers and attendante, who could scarcely
be distinguished the one from the other.

170 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
The two princes were very richly dressed; they wore -wide trousers,
long under and short over garmente, all made of satin, embroidered
with gold. The elder one, aged thfrty-five, wore short silk cuffs, em
broidered -with gold, the edge set with diamonds ; he had several large
brUliant rings on his finger, and his silk shoes were covered with beau
tiful gold embroidery. His brother, a youth of nine teen, whom he had
adopted,* wore a white turban with a costly clasp of diamonds and
pearls. He had large pearls hanging from his ears, and rich massive
bracelete on his -wriste. The elder prince was a handsome man, with
exceedingly amiable and inteUectual features ; the younger one pleased
me far less.
We had scarcely seated ourselves, when a large silver basin -with
elaborately worked nargillys were brought, and we were invited to
smoke. We decUned this honour, and the prince smoked alone ; he
took only a few whiffs from the same nargUly, which was then replaced
by another handsomer one.
The beha-viour of the princes was very decorous and lively. I
regretted that we could comraunicate only through an interpreteri
He inqufred whether I had ever seen a Natech (festival dance). On
my answering that I had not, he immediately ordered one to be per
formed. In half an hour two female dancers and three musicians ap
peared. The dancers were dressed in gay gold-embroidered muslin,
wide siUc frousers, embroidered with gold, which reached to the
ground, and quite covered their bare feet. One of the musicians
played upon two small drums, the other two on four-stringed
instruments, simUar to our violins. They stood close behind
the dancers, and played without melody or harmony ; the dancers
making at the same tirae veiy animated motions with thefr arms,
hands, and fingers, more than with their feet, on which they wore silver
bells, which they rung at intervals. They made handsome and
graceful drapings and figures -with thefr over garmente. This per
formance lasted about a quarter of an hour, after which they accom
panied the dance with singing. The two sylphides shrieked so
miserably that I was in fear for my ears and nerves.
During the performance, sweetmeats, fruite, and sherbet (a cooling,
sweet, acidulated beverage) were handed round.
After the dance was ended, the prince asked if I would like to sew
his garden, which is a mUe distant from the palace. I was indiscreej:
Tiough to accept his offer.
In company with the young prince we proceeded to the front squai-o
rf the palace, where elegantly ornamented elephante stood ready. The
elder prince's favourite elephant, an animal of xmcommon size and
beauty, was destined for myself and Mr. Law. A scarlet canopy,
with tassels, fringes, and gold embroidered lace, nearly covered the
whole animal. A convenient seat was placed upon his broad back,
which nught be compared to a phaeton -without wheels. The elephant
was made to kneel do-wn, a ladder was placed against his side, and
Mr. Law and myself took our places. Behind us sat a servant, who
• If a Hindoo has no son, he adopts one of his relations, in order that he may fulfil
the duties ofa son at the funeral of his adoptive father.

A VISIT TO TUE R.UAII OF BENARES. 171
held an enormously large umbrella over our heads. The driver sat
upon the neck of the animal, and pricked it now and then between
the ears with a sharp-pointed fron rod.
The young prince, with his attendant aud servante, took thefr
places upon the other elephants. Several officers on horseback
rode at our side, two soldiers with drawn sabres ran in fi-ont of the
party to cleai- the way, and upwards of a dozen soldiers, also with
drawn sabres, surrounded us, while a few mounted soldiers brought
up the rear.
Although the raotion of the elephant is quite as jolting and
unpleasant as that of the camel, this fruly In^an ride afforded mo
great pleasure.
When we had arrived at the garden, the young prince seemed by
his proud look to ask whether we were not charmed with its mag
nificence. Om- deUght was unfortunately assumed, for the garden
was fai- too plain to deserve much praise. In the back-ground of the
garden stands a soraewhat ruinous royal summer palace.
As we were about leaving the garden, the gardener brought us some
beautiful nosegays and delicious fruits — a custom universal in India.
Outside the garden was a very large water-basin, covered with
handsome blocks of stone; broad steps led up to the water, and at the
corner stood beautiful kiosks, ornamented -with tolerably weU-executed
reUefs. The Rajah of Benares receives from the EngUsh govemment an
annual pension of one lac, that is, 100,000 rupees (£10,000). He is
said to receive as rauch more from his property, and nevertheless to be
very much in debt. The causes of this are his great exfa-avagance iu
clothes and jeweUery, his nuraerous wives, sen-ants, horses, camels,
and elephants, &c. I was told that the prince has forty -wives, about
a thousand servants and soldiers, a hundred horses, fifty camels, and
twenty elephante.
On the foUowing raorning the Rajah sent to inquire how tho
excursion had pleased us, and presented me -with confectionery, sweet
raeate, and the rarest fnuts ; among others, grapes and poraegranates,
which at this time of the year are scarce. They came from Cabul,
which is about 700 miles distant from this place.
Finally, I must mention that for raany years no one has died iu
the palace which the Rajah occupies. The reason of this is said to be
the following : — " One of the i-ulers of this palace once asked a
Brahrain what would become of the soul of any one who died in the
palace. The Brahmin answered that it would go to heaven. The
Rajah repeated the same question ninety-nine times, and always
received the same answer. But on asking the hundredth time, the
Brahmin lost patience, and answered that it would go into a donkey."
Since that time every one, from the prince to the raeanest servant,
leaves the palace as soon as they feel themselves unwell. None of
them are desfrous of continuing after death the part which they have,
perhaps, so ft-equently commenced in this Hfe. v
WhUe in Benares I had two opportunities of seeing the so-called
martyrs of the Fakfrs (a priestly sect ofthe Hindoos), These martyrs
impose upon themselves the most vaiious tortm-es : for example, they

172 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
stick an fron hook through their flesh, and have themselves drawn up
to a height of twenty or five-and-twenty feet; or they stand several
hours in the day upon one foot, and at the same time sfretch their
arms in the afr, or hold heavy weights in various positions, tum
round in a efrcle for hours together, tear the flesh off tiieir
bodies, &c. They frequently torment themselves so much as to be in
danger of their Uves. These martyrs are stUl tolerably venerated by
the people ; however, there are at the present time but a few more
remaining. One of the two whom I saw, held a heavy axe over his
head, and had taken the bent attitude of a workman hewing wood.
I watched him for more than a quarter of an hour ; he remained in
the same position as flrmly and quietly as if he had been turned to
stone. He had, perhaps, exercised this useless occupation for years.
The other held the point of his foot to his nose.
Another sect ofthe Fakfrs condemn theraselves to eat only a little
food, and that of the most disgusting kind : the flesh of oxen that
have died, half-rotten vegetables, and refuse of every kind, even mud
and earth ; they say that it is qmte iramaterial what the stomach is
filled with.
The Fakfrs aU go about almost naked, smear thefr bodies -with
cow-dung, not even excepting the face ; and then sfrew ashes over
themselves. They paint their breaste and foreheads -with the sym-
boHcal flgures of Vishnu and Shiva, and dye thefr ragged hair dark
reddish brown. It is not easy to imagine anything more disgusting
and repulsive than these prieste. They wander about aU the streete,
preaching and doing whatever they fancy ; they are, however, far
less respected than the martyrs.
One of the gentlemen whose acquaintance I made in Benares,
was so obUging as to communicate to me some information as to the
relation of the peasants to the govemment The peasant has no
landed property. AU the land belongs either to the English govem
ment, the East India Company, or the native princes. It is let out
altogether ; the principal tenante divide it into smaU lote, and sublet
these to the peasante. The fate of the latter depends entfrely upon
the disposition of the principal tenant. He determines the amount
©f rent, and frequently demands the money at a time when the crops
are not harvested, and the peasant caimot pay; the poor people are
then obHged to seU the unripe crops for half thefr worth, and thefr
landlord generaUy confrives to buy it himself in the name of another
person. The unfortunate peasant frequentiy has scarcely a sufficiency
left to keep life in himself and his family.
Laws and judges there certainly are in the country, and, as every
where else, the laws are good and the magisfrates just; but it is
another question whether the poor ever receive justice. The distriete
are so extensive, that the peasant cannot undertake a journey of seventy
or eighty nules ; and even when he Uves near, he cannot always ream
the presence of the magisfrate. The business of the latter is so great,
that he cannot himself attend to the detaUs, and generaUy he is the
only European in office, the remaining officials consisting of Hindoos
ana Mahomedans, whose character — a lamentable fact — is always

BENARES— THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT. ITS
worse the more they come in contact -with-JSuropeans. If, therefore,
the peasant coraes to the court without bringmg a present, he is
generaUy tumed away, his petition or complaint is not accepted or
Ustened to ; and how is he to bring a present after being deprived of
everything by the landlord ? The peasant knows this, and therefore
seldom makes a complaint.
An Englishman (unfortunately I have forgotten his name) who
fravelled in India for scientiflo purposes, proves that the peasants
have now to suffer more than formerly under thefr native princes.
In India, under the so-caUed " free EngUsh govemment," I found
a sad proof that the position of the slaves in Brazil is better than that
of tho fi-ee peasante here. The slave there has not to provide for any
of his wants, and he is never burdened -with too much work, as the
interest of his master would then suffer ; for a slave costs seven or
eight hundred gulders (£70 or £80), and it is to the interest of his
owner that he should be weU ti-eated, that he may be longer of ser
vice. It cannot be denied that there are cases in which the slaves
are tyrannicaUy freated, but this is exfremely rare.
Several German and EngUsh missionaries reside in the neighbom--
hood of Benares, and go constantly to the town to preach. At one
of these missionary estabUshments is a Christian village, which con
tains more than twenty Hindoo famiUes. Nevertheless, Christianity
makes scarcely any advance.* I inqufred of each of the missionaries
how many Hindoos or Mahomedans they had baptized in the course of
tiiefr labours : generally they said, " None ;" very seldora, "One." The
above mentioned famiUes result from the year 1831, when nearly the
whole of India was ravaged by cholera, nervous fever, or famine ; the
people died, and many chUdren remained orphans, wandering about
without a horae. The missionaries took these, and brought them up
in the Christian reUgion. They were insfructed in all kinds of frades,
were housed, married, and thefr whole maintenance provided for. The
descendants of these famiUes are continuaUy educated by the mission
aries, and sfrictly watched : as to new converts, however, there are
unfortunately none.
I was present at several examinations : the boys and gfrls seemed to
have been taught weU to read, -write, reckon, and were well acquainted
-with reHgion and geography. The gfrls were clever embroiderers,
they did needle-work very weU, and sewed all kinds of things ; the
boys and men made tables, carpete, bound books, printed, &c. The
dfrector and professor of this excellent estabUshment is the mis
sionary, Mr. Luitpold ; his -wife has the superintendence of the gfrls.
The whole is sensibly and inteUigently arranged and conducted ; Mr.
and Mrs. Luitpold attend to their protegh with true Christian love.
But what are a few drops in an immeasurable sea!
• The dislike whieh the Hindoos evince towards the Europeans, is chiefly in conse
quence of the latter showing no honour to the cow, of their eating ox-tlesh, and drinking
brandy ; and that they spit in their houses, and even in the temples, and wash their
mouths with their flngers, &e. They call the Europeans " Parang." TMs disrespect is
said to make the Hindoos dislike the Christian religion.

CHAPTER Xni.
ALLAHABAD, AGRA, AND DELHI.
Allahabad— Caunipoor — Agra — ^The Mausoleum of Sultan Akbar— Taj-Mkhal — The
Ruined Town op Fatipooe-Sikhi — Delhi— The Main Si-reei- — Public Prockssions
— ^Twt, Emperor's Palace — Palaces and Mosques— Old Delhi — Remarkable Ruins
— The English Miutart Station.
From Benares, Mr. Law and myself traveUed in a post-dock to Alla
habad. The distance, which amounte to seventy-six mUes, occupies
about twelve or thfrteen hours. We left the sacred to-wn on the 7th
of January, 1848, at 6 o'clock in the evening, and early in the morning
found ourselves afready near Allahabad, at a long bridge of boats
which here crosses the Ganges.
We left the post-dock, and were carried in palanquins to the hotel,
ahout a mUe further on. When we arrived there, we found it so
occupied by some officers of a regiment on the march, that ray fra
veUing companion was received only upon condition that he woidd
content himself -with a place in the pubUc-roora. In these circum
stances, nothing remained for me but to make use of my letter of
introduction to Dr. Angus.
My arrival placed tiie good old gentleman in no little embai-rass-
ment : his house was also already filled with travellers. His sister,
Mrs. Spencer, however, with great kindness, at once offered me half
of her own sleeping apartment.
Allahabad has 25,000 inhabitente. It Ues partly upon the Jumna
(Deschumna), partly on the Ganges. It is not one of the largest and
handsomest, although it is one of the sacred towns, and is -visited by
many pUgrims. The Europeans reside in handsome garden-houses
outside the town.
Among the objects of interest, the fortress with the palace is the
most remarkable. It was buUt during the reign of the Sultan Akbar.
It is situated at the junction of the Jumna with the Ganges.
The forfress has been much sfrengthened with new works by the
EngUsh. It serves now as the principal depot of aims in British
India. The palace is a rather ordinary building; only a few of the saloons
are remai-kable for thefr interior division. There are some which are
intersected by three rows of columns, forming three adjoining arcades.
In others, a few steps lead into small apartraents which are situated
in the saloon iteelf, and resemble large private boxes in theatres.
The palace is now employed as an armoury. It contains complete
arms for 40,000 raen, and there is also a quantity of hea-vy ordnance.
In one of the courts stands a metal column tiifrty-six feet high,
called Feroze-Schachs-Laht, which is very weU preserved, is covered
with inscriptions, and is surmounted by a Hon.

ALLAHABAD. 175
A second curiosity in the fort is a smaU unimportant temple,
now much dUapidated, whioh is considered as very sacred by the
Hindoos. To their great sorrow they are not allowed to visit it, as
the fort is not open to them. One of the officers told me tiiat, a short
time since, a very rich Hindoo made a pilgrimage here, and offered
the commandant of the fortress 20,000 rupees (£2,000) to allow him
to make his devotions in this temple. The commandant could not
permit it.
This forti-ess also has its fradition : — " When the Sultan Akbar
commenced "building it, every waU immediately fell in. An oracle
said that he would not succeed in its erection before a man voluntarily
offered himself as a sacrifice. Such an one presented himself, and
made only one condition, that the fortress and town should bear his
name. The man was caUed Brog, and the town is, even at this time,
more frequently called Brog by the Hindoos than AUahabad."
In memory of the heroic man, a temple was erected near the
forfress, imder groimd, where he is interred. Many pilgrims come
here annuaUy. The teraple is quite dark ; Ughts or torches must be
used on entering it. It resembles, on the whole, a large handsome
cellai-, the roof of which reste upon a number of plain columns. The
walls are full of niches, which are occupied by idols and figures of
deities. A leafless tree is sho-wn as a great curiosity, which gi-ew
in the temple and made its way through the stone roof.
I also visited a flne large garden, in which stood four Mahomedan
mausoleums. The largest contains a sarcophagus of white marble,
which is surrounded by wooden gaUeries extremely richly and hand
somely decorated -with raother-of-pearl. Her^ rests the Sultan Koshru,
son of Jehanpufra. Two smaUer sarcophagi contain chUdren of the
sultan. The walls are painted with stiff flowers and miserable fr-ees,
between which are some inscriptions.
One part of the wall is covered with a smaU cm-tain. The guido
pushed it -with great devotion on one side, and showed me the
impression of a colossal open hand. He told me that a gi-eat-great-
uncle of Mohamet once came here to pray. He was powerful,
large, and clumsy; when raising -hiraself up, he sturabled against the
waJd and left the impression of his sacred hand.
These four raonuraents are said to be upwards of 250 years old.
They are consti-ucted of large blocks of stone, and richly decorated
with arabesques, fiiezes, reUefs, &c. The sepulchre of Koshru and
the inipression of the hand are much venerated by the Mahomedans.
TTie garden afforded me more pleasure than the monumente —
especially on account of the enormous tamarind-frees. I thought that
I had seen the largest in BrazU, but the ground, or perhaps the
climate, hero appears more favourable to this species of trees. Not
only is the garden full of such magniflcent specimens, but there are
beautiful avenues of thera round the town. The tamarinds of Alla
habad are even mentioned in geographical works.
On one side of the lofty wall which surrounds the garden, two
caravansaries are built, which are remarkable for thefr beautiful high
portals, their size, and convenient arrangement. They presented an
uncommonly lively appearance, containing people in aU costuraes

176 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
horses, oxen, camels, and elephante, and a large quantity of wares
in chests, bales, and sacks.
10th January. About 3 in the aftemoon, we left AUahabad and
continued om joumey in a post-dock as far as Agra, with some short
stoppages. The distance is nearly 300 mUes.
In twenty-two hours we reached Caxmipoor (160 mUes), on the
Ganges, a town whieh is reraarkable for ite EngUsh settlement.
The joumey so far offered Httle change, — an uninterrupted richly-
cultivated plain and an unfrequented road. With the exception of a
few companies of mUitary, we did not meet a single traveller.
A party of miUtary on the march in India resembles a small emigra
tion company ; and, after seeing one, it is easy to foi-m an idea of the
enormous trains of the Persian and other Asiatic armies. The greater
part of the native soldiers are married, as weU as the officers (Euro
peans) ; therefore, when the regiment marches, there are nearly as
many woraen and children as soldiers. The woraen and chUdren
ride, two or three together, upon horses or oxen, or sit upon cars, or
go on foot -with bundles on their backs. They have all thefr effects
packed upon cars, and drive thefr goats and cows before them. The
officers foUow, with thefr famUies, in European carriages, palanquins,
or on horseback. Their tents, house furniture, &c., are packed upon
camels and elephante, which generally bring up the rear. The camp
is pitched on both sides of the road — on one side are the people, and
on the other the aniraals.
Caunipoor is a sfrong miUtary station, -with four handsome bar
racks ; there is also an important missionai-y society. The to'wn
possesses some handsorae schools and private bmldings, and a Christian
church, in pure Gothic style.
12th January. Towards noon, we reached the sraaU viUage of
Beura. Here we found a bungalow ; that is, a small house with two
or four rooms barely furnished -with the raost necessary and plainest
furniture. These bungalows stand upon the post-roads, and supply
the place of hotels. They are buUt by government. One person pays one
rupee (2s.) a day for a small room ; a family, two rupees. The payment
is the same in most bungalows, if the traveUers reraain twenty-four
hours or only half an hour ; it is only in a few that it is considered
enough to pay half-price for staying a short time. At each bungalow,
a native is placed as superintendent, who waits on the fraveUers,
cooks for them, &c. The confrol is carried out by raeans of a book,
in which each traveUer -writes his name. If there are no fraveUers,
a person may remain as long as he chooses; when the confrary
happens, he cannot stay more tiian twenty-fom- hours.
The villages which He on the road are small, and appear very
miserable and poor. They are surrounded by high raud walls, whidfi
give them the appearance of a fortification.
After we had travelled three nights and two days and a half, we
reached Agra on the 13th of Jan-aary — the former residence of the
Great Mogul of India.
The suburbs of Agra resemble, in poverty, the miserable -villages
before mentioned. They are composed of high walls of earth, withia
which are small dUapidated huts and barracks. A change was at

THE MAUSOLEUM OF SULTAN AKBAR. m
once apparent when we had passed through a stately gateway. We
then suddenly found ourselves in a large open square, surrounded by
waUs, from which four lofty gates led to the town, tlie forfress, and
the suburbs. Agi-a, like most Indian towns, has no inn. A German
missionary received me kindly; and, in addition to his hospitaUty,
was obUging enough to show me personaUy whatever there was of
interest in the town and neighbourhood.
Our first visit was to the beautiful mausoleum of the Sultan
Akbar, at Secundra, four mUes from Agra.
The porch which leads into the garden is a masterpiece. I stood
before it for a long time amazed. The enormous building is raised
upon a stone terrace, which is approached by broad steps ; the gate
is lofty, and is surmounted by an imposing dome. At the four
comers are minarets of white marble three stories high; tmfortu
nately, their upper parts are afready somewhat dUapidated. On the
front of the gate are the remains of a stone teeUis-work.
The mausoleum stands in the centre of the garden ; it is a square
buUding four stories in height, each becoming narrower at the top,
Uke a pyramid. The first sight of this monument is not very attractive,
for the beauty of the gateway ecUpses it; however, it improves on a
more detaUed examination.
The bottom story is surrounded by flne arcades; the rooms are
plain, the walls covered with a briUiant white cement, intended as a
substitute for marble. Several sarcophagi stand inside.
The second story consists of a large terrace, which covers the
whole extent of the lower one ; in its cenfre is an open airy apart
ment with a Ught arched roof, supported by columns. Several small
kiosks at the corners and sides of the terrace give to the whole a
somewhat bizarre though tasty appearance. 'The pretty domes of
the kiosks must formerly have been very rich and splendid, for on
many there are stUl to be seen beautiful remains of coloured glazed
tiles and inlaid marble-work.
The thfrd story resembles the second. The fourth and highest is
the most handsome. It is constructed entfrely of white marble, while
the three lower ones are only of red sandstone. Broad-roofed arcades,
whose exterior marble lattice- work is inimitably executed, form an
open square, over which the raost beautiful roof — the blue sky — -
spreads. Here stands the sarcophagus which contains the bones of
the sultan. On the arches of the arcades, texts from the Koran are
inlaid in characters of black marble.
I heUeve this is the only Mahomedan monument in which the
sarcophagus is placed at the top of the buUding in an uncovered
space. The palace of the MongoUan Sultan stands in the citadel. It is
said to be one of the most remarkable buildings of Mongolian
architecture.* The fortiflcations are nearly two mUes in extent, and consist o£
• Many of the more recent Indian towns -were built hy the- Mongolians, or were so
,]nneh altered hy them that they altogether lost their origins^ character. India wa*
eonquered hy the Mongolians as eEcrly as the tenth century.

178 A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
double and freble waUs, the outer one of which is said to be seventy-
five feet high.
The interior is divided into three principal courte. In the first
live the guards ; in the second, the officers and higher authorities; in
the thfrd, which occupies the side towards the Jumna, stands the
palace, the baths, the harem, and several gardens. In this court,
everything is made of marble. The walls of the rooms in the palaces
are covered with such stones as agates, onyxes, jasper, corneUan,
lapis-lazuH, &c., inlaid in mosaic work, representing flowers, bfrds,
arabesques, and other flgures. Two rooms without -windows are
exclusively destined to show the effects of iUumination. The walls
and the arched roof are covered -with mica slate in small sUvered
frames ; fountains splash over glass walls, behind which lights can
be arranged, and jets of water are thrown up in the centre of the
room. Even without Ughts, it gUttered and sparkled most marvel
lously ; what must be the effect when innumerable lamps throw back
thefr rays a thousandfold ! Such a sight enables one easUy to under
stand the imaginative descriptions of the Eastem tales of " a thOusand-
and-one nights." Such palaces and rooms may be truly considered
works of magic.
Near the palace stands a small mosque, which is also entfrely
consfructed of white marble, richly and artisticaUy furnished with
arabesques, reliefs, &c.
Before lea-ving the forfress, I was led to a deep underground vault
— the former scene of numerous secret executions. How much inno
cent blood may have been shed there !
The Jumna Mosque, which the erudite affirm to surpass that of
Soliman's in Constantinople, stands outeide the forfress, upon a high
terrace near the river. It is of red sandstone, has the same wonderfiU
domes, and was built by the Sultan Akbar. In the arches are to be
seen remains of rich paintings in Hght and dark-blue, intermixed
with gilding. It is to be regretted tiiat this mosque is in a rather
dilapidated condition ; but it is hoped, however, that it -wiU soon be
corapletely restored, as the EngHsh government hayo afready com
menced repairing it.
From the mosque we retumed again to the to-wn, which is, for the
most part, surrounded by rubbish. The principal street, " Sander,"
is broad and cleanly paved in the raiddle with square stones, and at
the sides -with bricks. At both exfremities of this sfreet stand ma
jestic gateways. The houses of the town (from one to four stories
high) are almost entirely of red sandstone ; most of them are smaU,
but ihany are surrounded by columns, piUars, and gaUeries. Several
are distinguished by thefr handsome porches. -The streets are narrow,
crooked, and ugly ; the bazaars unimportant. In India, as well as in
the East, the more costly wares must be, sought in the interior of the
houses. The population of this town is said to have amounted
formerly to 800,000 ; it is now scarcely 60,000.
The whole envfrons are full of ruins. Those who bmld can
procure the materials at the mere cost of gathering them frolii the
ground. Many Europeans inhabit half-ruinous buildings, whioh, at a
small expense, they convert into pretty palaces.

inE TAJMEHAL.

THE TAJ-MEHAL. 17D
Agra is the principal scat of two missionai-y societies — a Catholic
and a Protestant. Here, as in Benares, they educate the offspring of
the chUdren they picked up in 1831. A little girl was pointed out
to me that had recently been bought of a poor woman for two
rupees (is.)
At the head of tiie Catholic mission is a bishop. The present one
Mr. Porgi, is the foimder of a tastefully-built church. In no similar
establishment did I ever see so much order, or flnd the natives so
well-behaved as here. On Sundays, after prayers, they amuse them
selves with decorous and Hvely games ; while in the Protestant esta-
bUshraente, after having worked all the week, they are compeUed to
pray all day long, and thefr greatest arauseraent consiste in being
aUowed to sit for a few hours gravely before the house-doors. A
person who passed a Sunday in this country araong strict Protestants
would imagine that God had forbidden the most innocent amusements.
These two reUgious societies, unfortunately, are not on very
amicable terms, and censure and persecute every slight irregularity
on the part of each other; by this means not setting the natives
Hving round thera a very good exaraple.
My last visit was to the magnificent freasure of Agra, and, indeed,
of all India — the famous Taj-Mehal.
I had read somewhere that this monument ought to be -visited last,
as the others would not be admired at all after seeing this. Captain
EUiot says : " It is difflcult to give a description of this monument ;
the architectm-e is full of sfrength and elegance."
The Taj-Mehal was erected by the Sultan Jehoe (Dschehoe), in
memory of his favourite rauntaza, Zeraani. Ite buUdmg is said to
have cost £750,000. Properly speaking, the sultan's memory is more
perpetuated by this buUding than that of his favourite, for every one
who saw it would involuntarily ask who erected it. The names of
the architect and builder are tmfortunately lost. Many ascribe it to
ItaUan masters ; but when it is seen that there are so many other
admfrable works of Mahomedan architecture, either the whole raust
be considered foreign or this must be admitted to be native.
The monuraent stands in the centre of a garden, upon an open
terrace of red sandstone, raised twelve feet above the ground. It
represente a raosque of an octagon forra, with lofty arched entrances,
which, together with the four minarets that stand at the corners of
the terrace, is entfrely built of white marble. The principal dorae
rises to a height of 260 feet, and is surrounded by four smaller ones.
Eound the outside of the mosque extracte from the Koran are inlaid
in characters of black marble.
In the principal apartment stand two sarcophagi, of which one
contains the remains of the sultan, the other those of his favourite.
The lower part of the walls of this apartraent, as well as both sarco
phagi, are covered with costly mosaic work of the most beautiful
stones. A marble lattice-work, six feet high, surrounding the two
sarcophagi, is a masterpiece of art. It is so deUcate and finely
worked, that it seems as if turned out of ivory. The graceful columns
and the narrow cornices are also covered, above and below, with jasper,
agate, &c. Among these, I was shown the so-called " goldstone,' which
M

ISO A W0M.\N'S JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
has a perfect gold colour, and is said to be very costiy, even more so
than lapis-lazuli.
Two gateways and two mosques stand at a small distance ft-om
the Taj-Mehal. They are built of red sandstone and white marble.
If they stood apart, each would be considered a master-work ; as it is,
however, they lose in atfraction by thefr proximity to the Taj-Mehal,
of which a traveller says, with full justice : " It is too pure, too sacred,
too perfect, to have been constructed by men's hands — angels must
have brought it from heaven ; and one imagines there ought to be a
glass shade over it, to protect it from every breath and every wind."
Although this mausoleum is raore than 250 years old, it is as
perfect as fi' it was only just finished.
Many traveUers affirm that the Taj-Mehal produces a magical effect
when lighted by the moon. I saw it during a full moonshine, but was
so little pleased, that I much regretted, by this sight, having somewhat
weakened my former impression of it. The moon's light gives a
magical effect to old ruins or Gothic buUdings, but not to a monument
which consists of white brilliant marble. Moonlight makes the latter
appear in indistinct masses, and as i£ partly covered with snow.
Whoever first promulgated this opinion respecting the Taj-Mehal
perhaps visited it in some charming company, so that he thought
everything round hira was heavenly and supernatural; and others
raay have found it raore convenient, instead of putting it to the test
theraselves, to repeat the stateraent of thefr predecessors.
One of the most interesting excursions of ray whole journey was
to the ruins of the town of Fattipoor Silai, eighteen miles from Agra,
and six miles in circuraference. We rode thither, and had ordered
changes of horses, so as to be able to make the journey in one daj'.
On om- way, we passed at times over extended heaths, on one of
which we saw a small herd of antelopes. The antelope is a kind of
deer, but smaller in size. It is extremely delicate and prettUy
formed, and is distinguished by narrow dark-brown sfripes along the
back. The herd crossed the road before us without much timidity,
passing over ditches and bushes, and leaping raore than twenty feet
at a tirae, -with such graceful raovements that they seemed aa if -
dancing through the afr. I was not less deUghted by the sight of
two wild peacocks. It afforded me pecuUar pleasure to see these
animals in a state of freedom, which we Europeans are accustomed to
keep as rarities, Uke exotic plants.
The peacock is here soraewhat larger than any I had seen m
Europe ; the display of colours also, and the general brUliancy of the
plumage, struck me as being finer and brighter.
These birds are considered by the Indians almost as sacred as the
cow. They appear to fully understand this kindness, for they are
seen, like house-birds, walking about in the viUages or quietly resting-
upon the roofs. In some disfricts, the Indians are so prejudiced iu
their favour, that no European can ventm-e to shoot one of them
•without exposing himself to the greatest insults. Only four months
since, two English soldiers fell victims to this neglect of Hindostanee ,
customs. They kUled several peacocks ; the enraged people fell upon

THE RUINED TOWN OF F.VTTIPOOR-SIKRI. 181
them and iU-used them in such a way that they shortly afterwards
died. Fattipoor Sikri stands upon a hill; the forfress walls, the mosque,
and other buildings can therefore be seen from a distance. On both
sides of the road, a short distance outeide the walls, Ue remains of
houses or single apartmente, fragments of handsome columns, &c.
With great regret I saw the natives breaking many of them, and
converting them into building materials for thefr houses.
'The entrance to the fortress and town was through three hand
some gates, and over raasses of rubbish and fragraents. The view
which here presents itself is much raore impressive than that at
Porapeii, neai- Naples. There, indeed, everything is destroyed, but
it is anotiier and more orderly kind of desti-uction — streets and
squares appear as clean as if they had only been abandoned yesterday.
Houses, palaces, and temples are free from rubbish; even the track of
the carriages remain uneffaced. Pompeii, raoreover, stands on a plain,
and it cannot, therefore, be seen at one glance ; ite extent, too, is
scarcely half so great as that of Sikri ; the houses are sraaller, the
palaces not so nuraerous, and inferior in splendour and magnitude.
But here a larger space is covered with magnificent buildings,
mosques, kiosks, columned haUs, and arcades, with everything that
was in the power of art to create; and no single object has escaped
the destructive influence of time — all is falUng into ruin. It is
scarcely more than two hundred years since the town was in a
flourishing state of wealth and magnificence, and it is hardly possible
to divest the mind of the idea of a terrible earthquake having over
whelmed it. Unlike PorapeU, it was not covered by protecting ashes,
but laid openly exposed to the weather. My sadness and astonish
raent increased at every step — sadness at the terrible destruction,
astonishraent at the still perceptible magnificence, the number of
splendid buildings, the beautiful sculptm-es, and the rich ornaments.
I saw some buUdings whose interior and exterior were so covered
-with sculptures, that not the smallest space remained bare. The
principal mosque exceeds in size and artistic construction even tho
Jumna Mosque in Agra. The entrance porch in the fore-court is
said to be the loftiest in the world. The interior arch measures
72 feet, and the entire height amounts to 140 feet. The fore-court
of the mosque is also one of the largest existing ; its length is 436
feet, its breadth 408 ; it is surrounded by flne arabesques and small
cells. This court is considered almost as sacred as the mosque itself,
in consequence of the Sultan Akbar, " the just," having been accus
tomed to pay his devotions there. After his death, this spot was
indicated by a kind of altar, which is of white marble, and of -won
derful workmanship.
The mosque itself is built in the style of the Jumna Mosque, and
has, like that, four enormous domes. The interior is filled with
sarcophagi, in which lie the reraains either of relations or favourite
ministers of the Sultan Akbar. An adjoining court also contains a
great number of sepulchral monumente.
The Sultan Akbar passed several hours every day in the Hall of
Justice, and gave audience there to the meanest, as well as the most
M 2

183 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
important of his subjects. A singly column, standing in ths centre
of the hall, was the (Evan of the emperor. This column, the capital
of which is marvellously executed, becomes broader towards the top,
and is surrounded by a beautifully worked stone gallery, a foot high.
Four broad stone passages or bridges lead into the adjoining apart
ments of the palace.
The sultan's palace is less remarkable for size than for its
sculptures, columns, ornaraents, &c. Every part is over-richly
furnished with them.
I found less to admire in the famous Elephant gate. It is, indeed,
'loftily arched, but not so high asthe entrance gate in the fore-court of
the raosque ; the two elep.-ants, which were very beautifully executed
in stone, are so much dilapidated, that it is scarcely possible to tell
what they are intended to represent.
'The so-caUed Elephant's Tower is in a better state cf preservation.
In sorae descriptions of this, it is stated that it is constructed onlj- of
elephante' tusks, and even of the tusks of those elephants only which
were taken from enemies during Akbar's time, or had been captured
by him in hunting. This is, however, not the case ; the tower,
which is sixty feet high, is built of stone, and the tusks are fastened
on from top to bottora, so that they project out from it. The Sultan
Akbar is said to have frequently sat upon the top of this tower,
occupying hiraself by shooting birds.
AU the buildings, even the enorraous wall, are of red sandstone,
and not, as many affirm, of red marble.
Many hundreds of small green birds have formed their nests in
the holes and crevices of the buildings.
On the 19th of January I left the famous town of Agra, in the
company of Mr. Law, in order to visit the stUl more celebrated city
of Delhi, which is 122 mUes from Agra. There is an excellent post-
road all the way.
The country between Agra and Delhi continues tolerably un
changed; there is no elevation to be seen. Far and wide, cultivated
land alternates with heaths and sandy moors, and the miserable
villages or sraall towns which lie on the road, excite no desire to
delay thejourney even for a raoment.
A long and handsome chain bridge crosses the Jumna near the
town of Gassanger.
On the 20th of January, at 4 in the afternoon, we reached
Delhi. Here I met with Dr. Sprenger, a very kind and amiable
countryman. Dr. Sprenger, a Tyrolese, has won for himself, by his
remarkable abilities and knowledge, a considerable reputation, not
only among the EngHsh, but throughout the whole learned world.
He holds the position of Dfrector of the College in this place, and but
a short time since was requested by the English government to go to
Lucknau, for the purpose of examining the library of the Indian King
of Lucknau, to make known the valuable works, and put the whole
in order. He is a perfect raaster of the Sanscrit, the ancient and
modern Persian, the Turkish, Arabic, and Hindostanee languages, and
translates the most difficult of them into English and German. He

NEW DELHI. 183
has already made the most valuable and interesting contributions to
Uterature, and will still continue to do so, as he is an extremely active
raan, and scarcely thirty-four years of age.
Although he was on the eve of his departure for Lucknau, he
was, nevertheless, kind enough to become my Mentor.
We commenced with the great iraperial town of Delhi ; the town
to which formerly the eyes not only of all India, but almost pf all
Asia, were directed. It was in its time to India what Athens was
to Greece, and Rome to Europe. It also shares thefr fate — of all its
greatness only the name reraains.
The present Delhi is now called New Delhi, although it is already
two hundred years old; it is a continuation of the old towns, of
which there are said to have been seven, each of which were called
Delhi. As often as the palaces, fortifications, raosques, &c., becarae
dilapidated, they were left to fall into ruins, and new ones were built
near the old ones. In this way, ruins upon ruins accumulated, which
are said to have occupied a space raore than six railes in breadth, and
eighteen in length. If a great part of thera were not already covered
with a thin layer of earth, these ruins would certainly be tiie most
extensive in the world.
New Delhi lies upon the Jumna; it contains, according to Briickner,
a population of 500,000,* but I was informed that there was really only
100,000, among which are 100 Europeans. The streets are broader
and finer than any I had yet seen in any Indian town. The principal
street, Tchandni-Tschank, would do honour to an European city : it
is nearly three-quarters of a mile long, and about a hundred feet
broad ; a narrow canal, scant of water and half filled with rubbish,
runs thi-ough its entire length. The houses in this street are not
reraarkable either for magnitude or splendour ; they are at most one
story high, and are furnished below with miserable porches or
arcades, under which worthless goods are exposed for saie. I saw
nothing of the costly shops, the numerous precious stones glittering
in the evening with the lamps and lights, of which raany travellers
speak. The pretty houses and the rich shops raust be sought for in
the bye streets near the bazaar. The manufactures which I saw,
consisted of gold and silver work, gold tissues and shawls. The
natives execute the gold and silver wares so tastefully and artistically,
that finer cannot be found even in Paris. The tissues woven in gold,
the gold and silk embroideries and Cashmere shawls, are of the highest
degree of perfection. The finest Cashmere shawls cost here as much as
4,000 rupees (£400). The dexterity of the workmen appears still
more surprising after seeing the simple machines which they employ
to produce their beautiful wares.
It is extremely interesting to walk about the principal streets of
Delhi in the evening. There may be seen at once the modes of life
of both the rich and the poor Indians. There is no town in which
there are so many princes and nobles as in this. Besides the pen
sioned eraperor and his relations, whose number araounts to several
thousand, many other deposed and pensioned regents and ministers
• At the time of its gi-eatest prosperity it had 2,000,000 inhabitants.

184 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
reside here. Their presence gives great animation to the town ; they
are fond of going out in public, frequently make greater or less
parties, and ride (always on elephants) either in the neighbouring
gardens, or in the evenings through the streets. In the day excur
sions, the elephants are decorated in the most costly manner with
rugs and fine stuffs, gold lace, and fringe; the seats called the howdahs
are even covered with Cashmere shawls ; richly fringed canopies keep
off the heat ofthe sun, or else servants hold enorraous umbrellas for
this purpose. The princes and nobles sit in these howdahs to the
number of two or four, and are very gorgeously attired in Oriental
costumes. These processions present a raost beautiful appearance,
and are even larger and more splendid than those of the Rajah of
Benares, which I have described. Each procession consists frequentiy
of as many as a dozen or more elephants, and fifty or sixty soldiers
on foot and mounted, and as many servants, &o. In the evenings, on
the contrary, they are not so pompous — one elephant, together with
a few servants, suffices; they ride up and down the streets, co
quetting -with females of a certain class, who sit richly dressed and
with unveiled faces at open windows or outside gaUeries. Others
ride noble Arabian horses, whose stately appearance is still more
increased by gold-embroidered trappings and bridles inlaid with sil
ver. Between these riding parties, heavily laden camels from far
distant regions walk deUberately along. There are, moreover, not a
few bailis, drawn by beautiful white oxen, which the less wealthy
people or the above mentioned women use. The baiUs, as well
as the oxen, are draped -with scarlet cloths : the animals have
their horns and the lower half of their feet painted brownish-red, and
round their neck is a handsome collar, on which bells are fastened.
The raost beautiful women peep modestly out of the half-open bailis.
If it were not known to what class unveUed women belong in India,
it would be impossible to tell their position from thefr behaviour.
Unfortunately, there are more of this class in India than in any other
country : the principal cause of this is an unnatural law, a revolting
custom. The girls of every faraily are generaUy befrothed when they
are only a few months old ; if, however, the bridegroora dies imme
diately, or at any tirae after the betrothal, the gfrl is considered as a
¦widow, and as such cannot raarry again. They then generally become
dancers. The condition of -widowhood is looked upon as a great
misfortune, as it is beUeved that only those women are placed in this
position who have deserved it in a previous state of existence. An
Indian can only marry a girl belonging to his O'wn caste.
To the various objects of interest in the sfreets already noticed,
must be added the jugglers, mountebanks, and serpent charmers, who
wander about everywhere, and are always surrounded by a crowd of
curious people.
I saw several tricks performed by the jugglers which were truly
astonishing. One poured out fire and smoke from his mouth ; then
mixed white, red, yeUow, and blue powders together, swallowed them,
and then immediately spit out each one separately and dry; some
turned their eyes downwards, and when they again raised them the
pupils appeared as if of gold ; they then bowed the head forward, and

NEW DELHI — THE IMPERIAL PALACE. 165
on again raising it, the pupUs of their eyes had their natural colour,
and their teeth were gold. Others made a small opening in thefr
skin, and drew out of it yaids of thread, silk cord, and nan-ow rib
bons. The serpent charmers held tlie animals by their tails, and
aUowed them to twine round their arms, neck, and body ; they took
hold of large scorpions, and let them run over their hands. I also
saw- several battles between large serpents and ichneumons. These
little animals, rather larger tiian a weasel, live, as is known, upon
serpents and the eirs^s of crocodUes. They seize the former so dex
terously by the neck that they always master them ; the crocodile
eggs tliey suck.
At the end of the principal sti-eet stands the imperial palace, which
is considered one of the finest buildings in Asia. It occupies, together
with its adjoining buUdings, an extent of more than two miles, and is
smTOunded by a wall forty feet high.
At the principal entrance, a fine perspective -view is obtained
through several successive gateways, which is terminated in the back
ground by a handsome hall. This hall is but small, and is inlaid with
white marble and rare stones ; the roof is arched over with mica,
powdered over with smaU sters. Unfortunately, these wUl soon lose
all their glittering briUiancy, as the greater portion of the mica has
afready faUen, and the remainder is likely to follow. At the back of
the haU is a door of gilt metal, decorated with beautiful en graved work.
In this hall the ex-monarch is accustomed to show himself to the
people, who, from traditionary respect or curiosity, visit the palace.
He also receives European visitors here.
The handsoraest parte of the iraperial palace are the universaUy
admfred and magnificent audience saloon and the mosque. The for
mer stands in the centre of an open court; it is a long, square building;
the roof is supported by thirty columns, and is open on aU sides ;
several steps lead up to it, and a prettUy decorated marble gallery,
two feet high, surrounds it.
The present Great Mogul has so Httle taste, that he has had this
divan divided into two parte by a very paltry partition wall. A
simUar waU adjoins both sides of the saloon, for what purpose I could
not leam. In this divan is a great treasure : the largest crystal in
the world. It is a block of about four feet in length, two and a half
broad, and one foot thick ;' it is very fransparent. It was used by
the emperors as a throne or seat in the divan. Now it is hidden
behind the blank waU; and if I had not known of ite existence from
books, and been very curious to see it, it would not have been shown
to me at aU.
The mosque is indeed smaU, but, like the judgment-hall, it is of
white marble, and -with fine columns and sculptures.
Immediately adjoining the mosque is the garden " Schalinar,"
which is said to have been formerly one of the finest in India, but
has now quite fallen to decay.
Heaps of dust and rubbish were laying in the court-yards ; the
buUdings were almost Hke ruins ; and miserable barracks stood against
• Some writers describe this colossal crystal as being twenty-five feet long.

186 \ woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
dilapidated walls. On account of the eraperor's residence, it soon
became necessary to build a new Delhi.
On my entrance to the palace, I had observed a group of men
collected together in the court-yard. An hour afterwards, when we
were returning from our visit, they were still seated there. We drew
near to discover what it was that so atfracted their attention, and
saw a few dozen of tame birds seated upon perches quietly taking
their food from the hands of attendante, or else flghting for it. The
lookers-on were, as I was told, nearly all princes. Sorae were seated
upon chafrs, others stood round, together -with their followers. In
their home dresses, the princes are hardly to be distinguished from
thefr servants, and in education and knowledge they are certainly not
much in advance of thera.
The emperor amuses himself with a diversion which is not more
commendable. His troops consist of boys about eight or fourteen.
They wear a raiserable uniform, which in make and colour resembles
the EngUsh ; thefr exercises are conducted partly by old officers and
partly by boys. I pitied the young soldiers from ray heart, and won
dered how it was possible for them to handle thefr heavy muskets
and banners. The monarch generaUy sits for some hours every day
in the small reception hall, and amuses himself by watching the
manosuvres of his young warriors. This is the best time to get pre
sented to his majesty. He is eighty-flve, and at the time of my visit
was so unwell, that I had not the good fortune to see him.
The emperor receives frora the EngUsh governraent a yearly pen
sion of fourteen lacs (1,400,000 rupees^£140,000). The revenues of
his own possessions amount to half as much more; but with all this,
he is not so weU off as the Rajah of Benares. He has too large a
number of people to maintain : of the descendants of the iraperial
family alone more than three hundred, as well as a hundred women,
and two thousand attendants. If to these are added the numerous
elephants, camels, horses, &c., it may be easily understood why his
exchequer is always empty.
He receives his pension on the first of every month. It has to be
brought to him under the protection of the English miUtary, or it
would otherwise be seized by his creditors.
The emperor is said to be very discreet in raising his revenues by
various means. For example, he confers honorary poste and appoints
officials, for which he requires considerable sums of money ; and —
can it be believed ! — he always finds fools enough to pay for such ab
surdities. Parents even buy appointments for their children. The
present commander of the imperial troops is scarcely ten years old.
The most remarkable fact, however, is that the vizier, who manages
the emperor's incorae and expenditure, not only receives no salary,
but pays the emperor annually 10,000 rupees for this office. What
sums must be embezzled to make up for this !
The emperor issues a newspaper in his own palace, which is in
the highest degree absurd and laughable. It does not treat of poHtics
or the occurrences of the day, but exclusively of domestic incidents,
conversation, and relative affairs. It states, for example, " that the
sultan's -wife, A., o-n'ed the laundress, B., three mpees, and that

NEW DELHI— PALACES AND MOSQUES. 187
the laundress came yesterday to ask for her money ; that the lady
had sent to her imperial husband to ask for the sum. The emperor
referred her to the treasurer, who assured her, that as it was near the
end of the month, he could not cominand a penny. The laundress
was therefore put off until the next month.' Or, " The Prince C.
visited at such an hour the Prince D. or F. ; he was received in such
a room ; stayed so long ; the conversation was on this or that sub
ject," &c.
Among the other palaces of the town, that in which the college i.s
located is one of the handsomest. It is built in the Italian style, and
is fruly majestic ; the columns are of uncommon height ; the stairs,
saloons, and rooms are very spacious and lofty. A fine garden sur
rounds the back of the palace, a large court-yard the front, and a high
fortified wall encloses the whole. Dr. Sprenger, as director of the
coUege, occupies a fruly princely dwelHng in it.
The palace of the Princess Begum, half in the Italian and half in
the MongoUan style, is tolerably large, and is remarkable for its
extremely handsome saloons. A pretty and hitherto well kept garden
surrounds it on aU sides.
The Princess Begum attracted great attention at the time before
Delhi was under the English dominion, by her intelligence, enterprise,
and bravery. She was a Hindoo by birth, and became acquainted in
her youth with a German named Sombre, with whom she fell in love,
and tumed Christian in order to raarry hira. Mr. Sombre formed
a regiment of native troops, which, after they were well trained, he
offered to the eraperor. In the course of time, he so ingratiated
himself with the emperor, that the latter presented him with a large
property, and made him a prince. His wife is said to have supported
hira energetically in everything. After his death, she was appointed
coraraander of the regiraent, which post she held most honourably for
several years. She died a short time since at the age of eighty.
Of the numerous mosques of New Delhi, I visited only two, the
Mosque Roshun-ad-dawla, and the Jumna Mosque. The former
stands in the principal street, and its pinnacles and domes are splen
didly gUt. It is raade famous through its connection with an act of
cruelty on the part of Sheikh Nadir. This remarkable, but fear
fuUy cruel monarch, on conquering Delhi in the year 1739, had
100,000 of the inhabitants cut to pieces, and is said to have sat
upon a tower of this mosque to watch the scene. The town was
then set fire to and plundered.
The Jumna Mosque, built by the Sheikh Djihan, is also con
sidered a, masterpiece of Mahomedan architecture ; it stands upon
an enormous platform, to which forty steps lead up, and rises in a
truly majestic manner above the surrounding mass of houses. Its
symmetry is astonishing. The three doraes, and the sraall cupolas on
the minarets, are of white marble ; all the other, parts, even the large
slates with which the fine court-yard is paved, are of red sandstone.
The inlaid omamental work and stripes on the raosque, are also of
white marble.
There are great numbers of caravansaries, frequently with vei-y
handsome portals. The baths ai-e unimportant.

188 A W0.MAN'S JOURNEY EOUND IIIE WOELD.
We devoted two days to making an excursion to the more distant
monuments of Delhi. We first stopped at the still well-preserved
"P-urana Kale." All the handsome raosques reserable each other
much. This one, however, is distinguished by its decoration, the
richness and correctness of its sculptures, its beautiful inlaid work,
and its size. Three lightly arched and lofty cupolas cover the prin
cipal building, small towers adorn the corners, aud two highmin9,i-ets
stand at the sides. The entrance and the interior of the domes are
inlaid with glazed tiles and painted, the colours are remarkably
brilliant. The interior of every mosque is erapty; a sraall tribune
for speakers, and a few glass lusfres and lamps, constitute the whole
decoration. The mausoleum of the Emperor Humaione, very much in the
same style as the mosque, was commenced by this monarch hiraself.
But as he died before it was completed, his son Akbar carried out
his intentions. The high-arched temple, in the centre of which
stands tlie sarcophagus, is inlaid with mosaic work of rare stones.
Instead of window-panes, the openings are furnished with artisticaUy
worked stone lattices. In adjoining halls, under plain sarcophagi,
rest tlie remains of several wives and chUdren of the Emperor
Humaione. Not far from this is the monument of Nizam-ul-din, a very sacred
and greatly venerated Mahomedan. It stands in a small court, the
floor of which is paved with marble. A square screen of raarble, with
four small doors, surrounds the sarcophagus. This screen is still
more delicate and flnely worked than that in the Taj-Mehal ; it is
scarcely conceivable how it was possible to execute such work in
stone. The doors, piUars, and elegant ardles are covered with the
most chaste reliefs, as fine and perfect as any that I have seen in the
most ai-tistic towns of Italy. The marble used for them is of re
markable whiteness and purity, worthy, indeed, of these great works
of art. Adjoining this are several pretty monumente, all of white marble.
They are passed by with some indifference when the most perfect of
them all has been seen ffrst.
A great deal has been said about a large water basin, which is
surrounded on three sides by cells, already much dilapidated ; the
fourth side is open, and from it a beautiful stone stafrcase, forty feet
broad, leads to the water basin, which is twenty-five feet deep.
Every pilgrira would consider his pUgriraage of no account if he did
not sttp in here immediately on his arrival.
Divers plunge from the terraces of the cells to the bottom of the
basin, and fetch out the smallest pieces of money which have been
thrown in. Some are dexterous enough to catch the coin even before
it touches the bottom. We threw in several coins, which they
succeeded in bringing up every time, but I can scarcely beHeve that
they caught them before they reaohed the bottom. They reraained
long enough under water each time, not only to pick the coin up,
but also to look for it. The feat was certainly surprising, but not,
as some travellers afffrra, so remarkable that simUar ones might not
be seen elsewhere.

OLD DELHI. 189
Our last visit on this day was to the beautiful monument of the
Vizier Sofdar-Dchang, which is also a mosque. In this monument
I was especially struck by the inlaid work of white marble in red
sandstone upon the four minarets, it was so diversified and so
delicate ; so chastely executed that the most expert draughtsman
could not have produced it more correctly and deUcately upon paper.
The same may be said of the sarcophagi in the principal temple,
which is hewn out of a block of fine white marble.
The monument is sm-rounded by a tolerably weU-kept garden,
laid out in the European style.
At the end of the garden, opposite the mausoleum, stands a
small palace, principally belonging to the King of Lucknau. It is
at present kept in good condition by the few European inhabitants
of New DeUii. It contains a few articles of furniture, and serves
for the accommodation of visitors to these ruins.
We remained here over night, and, thanks to the good-hearted
and amiable Mrs. Sprenger, found every possible convenience we
could desfre. The first and most agreeable thing after our long
wandering, was a weU-furnished table. Such attentions are doubly
deserving of thanks, when it is remembered at what a great
amount of trouble they are procured. It is necessary on such ex
cursions to take not only pro-visions and a cook, but also cook
ing utensils, table-services, bed-linen, and servants, enough in
short for a smaU establishraent. The train of baggage, which
is always sent on before on these occasions, reserables a small
emigration party.
On the following moming we went on to Kotab Minar, one
of the oldest and most» beautiful btdldings of the Patau as (frora
which people the Affghans derive thefr origin). The most wonderful
part of this monument is the so-caUed " Giant's Coluran," a polygon
with twenty-seven sides or half-round corners, and five stories or
gaUeries, whose diameter at the basement is fifty-four feet, and
whose height is twenty-six feet. A -winding stafrcase of 386 steps,
leads to the top. This building is said to belong to the thirteenth
century, and to have been built by Kotab-ud-dun. The column is of
red sandstone, and only the exterior is of white marble ; decorations
and wonderful sculptures are wound in broad stripes around the
column ; these are so flnely and neatly chiselled as to resemble an
elegant lace pattern. Any description of the deUcacy and effect of
this work would be far exceeded by the reality. The column is
fortunately as well preserved as if it had only been standing about
a hundred years. The upper part leans a little forwards (whether
artificially, as in the tower at Bologna, is not decided) ; its top is
flat, Uke a terrace, which does not correspond with the remainder
of the architecture. It is not known whether anything formerly
stood upon it. The column was in its present condition when the
EngUsh conquered Delhi. i
We mounted as far as the highest point, and a most charming
view of the whole remains of Delhi, the Jumna, and the unbounded
plain, opened Itself here before us. The history of the people who
once ruled Hindostan may here be studied in the ruins of imperial

190 A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
towns, lying one close beside the other. It was a great and imposing
prospect. Many places where magnificent palaces and monuments formerly
stood are now cultivated fields. Wherever the ground is broken up,
fragments of ruins show themselves.
Opposite the tower or column of Kotab-Minar stands a similar
unfinished building, the base of which is considerably larger in cfr-
curaference than that of the finished one. It is supposed that these
two towers belonged to a magnificent raosque,* of which some courts,
gateways, columns, and walls still remain.
These few remains of the mosque are remarkable for the perfect
sculptures which covered the walls, gateways, &c., both outside and
inside. The entrance-gateway has a considerable height. The
columns in the courts are of Buddhist origin; the beU with long
chain is sculptured on thera in relief.
In the fore-court of the raosque stands a metal column similar to
that at Allahabad, except that there is no Hon upon its surarait, and
its height is not more than thfrty-six feet. It is defaced by several
marks and sHght injuries, which are ascribed to the Mongolians, who,
when they conquered Delhi, attempted in thefr destructive .rage to
pull down these columns ; but they stood too firmly, and all their
exertions were insufficient to destroy any of the inscriptions on them.
The remaining Patau or Affghan temples and monuments which
lie dispersed among the other ruins, resemble each other as rauch as
they differ frora the Mahomedan and Hindoo buUdings. The raonu
raents of this kind generaUy consist of a small round temple, with a
not veiy high cupola, surrounded by open arcades supported on pUlars.
Here also, in the neighbourhood of iCotab-Minar, a hospitable
dwelling is to be found. A ruined building is fitted up, and three of
the rooms are furnished.
Ou the way homewards, we visited the observatory of the famous
astronomer, Dey Singh. If that at Benares has been seen, this may
well be passed by. Both were built by the sarae architect, and iu
the sarae stylo ; but that at Benares is well preserved, while the one
here is already rauch dilapidated. Some traveUers consider this
memorial as one of the most wonderful works of Indian art.
Near the observatory stands the old madrissa (school-house), a
large building, with numerous rooras for teachers and pupils, and with
open galleries and halls, in which the teachers sat surrounded by
groups of youths. The building is rather neglected, but is partly
inhabited by private persons.
Adjoining the madrissa stands a pretty mosque and a very hand
some monument, both of white marble. The latter was erected by
Aurang Zeb, in meraory of his vizier Ghasy-al dyn Chan, the founder
of the madrissa. It is as perfect in its execution as that of the saint
Nizam-ul-din, and appears to have been erected by the same artist.
The palace of Feroze Schah is near New Delhi. It is indeed
soraewhat in ruins, but there is much to be seen in the existing re
mains of the building. The fore-court of the mosque was a short
• If these two towers did belong to a mosque, why were they built of such different
sizes?

DELHI— THE ENGLISH MILITAEY STATION. 191
time since cleared with great labom- of the rubbish and masses of
stone which covered it, by the untfring zeal of Mr. Cobb, the esteemed
editor of the English Delhi News. It is in very good preservation.
In this palace stands the third metal column — Feroze-Schachs-Laht.
The inscriptions upon it show that it existed a hundred years before
the birth of Christ, and may therefore be considered as one of the
oldest monuments of India. It was brought here fi-om Lahore at the
time this palace was built,
The Purana-KiUa, or the old fortress of the palace of Babar, is
much decayed. From the height and style of the remaining frag
ments of gateways and walls, an idea may be forraed of tho raagnitude
of the palace.
The ruins of Loglukabad are m an advanced state of dilapidation,
and do not repay the trouble of a journey of seven railes.
The other numerous ruins are little more than mere repetitions of
those ah-eady described, with which, however, they cannot be eom-
pai-cd in size, elegance, and beauty. They raay be of great interest
to antiquarians and historians ; but by rayself, I candidly adrait, they
were not much valued.
I must not neglect to mention the EngUsh railitary station, which is
situated upon some low hills near New Delhi. The peculiar formation of
the ground renders a journey there extremely interesting : a district
of enorraous blocks of red sandstone, between which beautiful flowers
were growing. There are numerous ruins here, rauch the same as
in Delhi.

CHAPTER XIV.
JOUENEY FEOM DELHI TO BOMBAY.
The Thugs on Stranglers — DsrAiiTunE — Cattle-market — Baeatpooh — Biana —
Wells and Ponds — Good-nature of tub Indians — Poppy Plantatio.vs — The
Suttis — Notara — Kottah — Description op the Town — The Eoyal Palace of
ARMOENEVAS — AMUSEMENTa AND DaNCES — THE HOLY VILLAGE OF KeSHO-Rae-FatUU.
In order to reach Bombay, I had two routes before rae ; the one
leads past Sirala to the foot of the Himalayas, the other to the
famous rock temples of Adjunta- and Elora. I would gladly have
chosen the former, and have penetrated as far as the principal chain
of the Himalayas — ^Lahore and the Indus ; but my friends advised me
not to make the atterapt, for the simple reason, that these mountains
were covered with deep snow, in which case I must have postponed
ray journey for at least three months. As I was unable to wait so
long, I decided upon taldng the latter road. In Calcutta, I had been
recommended not to continue my joumey beyond Delhi at all. They
said the country was not under the control of the EngHsh govern
ment, and the people were far less civilized. People endeavoured
more especially to excite my apprehension by terrible accounts of the
Thugs or stranglers.
These Thugs foi-ra a singular sect, whose object is robbery and
murder, and who, like the Italian banditti, are prepared to undertake
any atrocity for which they are paid. They must not, however, in any
case shed blood, and dare only make away with thefr victim by
strangUng. The act is not considered as very criminal, and the
murderer absolves himself by a small present, which he gives to his
priest; but, if he sheds only one drop of blood, he falls into the
deepest disgrace, is expelled ft-om his caste, aud abandoned even by
his own associates.
Many travellers affirm that the Thugs are a reUgious sect, and
that they do not murder for the sake of plunder or of revenge, but in
order, according to their beUef, to ensure a meritorious action. I made
many inqufries about this, and learnt ft-om every one that it was no
religious compulsion, but hatred, revenge, or desfre of gain, which
led to these acts. 'These stranglers aro represented as possessing a
most extraordinary dexterity in thefr abominable trade, united with
the most untiring patience and perseverance ; they ft-equently follow
the victims they have selected for months, and strangle them either
while sleeping, or by stealing behind them anS throwing a twisted
cloth or a cord round their necks, which they draw tight with such
rapidity and force that death ensues instantaneously.
In DeUii, I gained more information. I was assured that all these
dangers were exaggerated ; that travellers were very rarely attacked ¦

JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY. 193
in India, and that the Thugs were much reduced in nurabers. More
over, they did not make any attempt upon Europeans, as the English
government instituted the strictest search for the culprits. With
regard, therefore, to the danger, I was tolerably at case, but I had
still to anticipate privation and fatigue.
The first part of the joumey was to Kottah, distant 290 miles.
I had the choice of three modes of conveyance — ^palanqmns, caraels,
or oxen baUis. None of them are expeditious ; there arc no high
roads, and no organized accommodation for travelling ; you must
retain the same men and animals to the end of the joumey, and, at
the utmost, cannot go more than from twenty to twenty-two railes
in one day. For a palanquin, it is necessary to engage eight bearers,
besides several for the luggage. Although each does not receive
more than eight rupees a-month, out of which he pays his own
expenses; still the expense is heavy, because so many are required,
and thefr retm-n jom-ney must be paid for. TravelHng on camels is
also expensive, and is the most inconvenient. I decided, therefore,
on adopting the less costly mode of conveyance by oxen. As I tra
veUed alone, Dr. Sprenger very kindly made all the necessary
preparations; he drew up a -written confract with the tschandrie
(waggoner) in Hindostanee to the effect that I was to pay him tho
half of the fare, fifteen rupees (£1 10s.), immediately, and the other
half when we arrived at Kottah, to which place he was to bring me
in fom-teen days; for every day over that tirae I had the right to
deduct three rupees (Gs.) Dr. Sprenger also sent one of his most
frusty cheprasses * to accompany me, and his good wife furnished mo
"with an excellent warm wrapper, and every kind of pro-vision, so that
my waggon woxdd hardly hold all that I had.
With a sorrowful heart I parted from my good country people.
God grant that I may see them yet again during my life ! On the
morning of SOth of January, 1848, 1 left Delhi. The first day, we
made very Httle progress, only eighteen mUes, which brought us to
Faridabad ; the hea-vy awkward animals requfred to be ffrst used to
the draught. 'The first twelve miles of the journey afforded me some
gratification, as along both sides of the road lay innumerable ruins,
which I had visited with my friends only a few days previously.
This, as weU as the foUo-wing nights, were passed in caravansaries.
I had no tent — no palanquins, and on this road there were no bunga
lows. Unfortunately, the caravansaries in the smaller villages are not
to be compared -with those in the larger towns ; the ceUs are rudely
constructed of clay, thefr length is scarcely seven feet, and the small
opening, only four feet high, is without a door ; but, to my astonishment,
I found them always very cleanly swept, and I was also furnished with
a low wooden stool, covered -with network, upon which I threw my
wrapper, and which served me for an excellent couch. The cheprasse
laid himself, Uke Napoleon's Mameluke,- before the entrance of my
• The cheprasses are servants of the English govei-nment. Thev wear red cloth
scarfs, and a brass plate on the shoulders, with the name of the town to which they
belong engraved upon it. Each of the higher English officials are aUowed to have one
or more of these people in their service. The people consider them much superior to
the ordinary servants.

134 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
ceU ; but he slept much more soundly, for, even on the first night,
he did not hear the least of a very sharp encounter which I had with
an enormous dog that had been atfracted by my weU-fiUed provision "
basket. Slst January. Towards noon, we passed through the little to-wn of
Balamgalara, in which there is a sraall English miHtary station, a
mosque, and a very recently-erected Hindoo temple. We passed the
night in the Httle town of Pal wai.
In this ¦ neighbourhood, the peacocks are yery tame. Every
morning, I saw dozens of these beautiful bfrds on the trees ; they
come into the fields, and even into the towns, to fetch food frora the
good-natured natives.
1st February. Our night's station on this day was the small town
of Cossi. We had already been overtaken during the last mile by a
number of natives, who were busily hurrying into the town, in and
outeide of whieh a considerable cattle-market was being held. This
market presented a picture of the greatest confusion; the aniraals
stood on all sides between a raultitude of frusses of hay and straw,
the seUers crying and praising their wares without cessation, and
leading the buyers here and there, partly by persuasion and partly
by force, who also made no less noise than the former.
I was raost struck by the innuraerable cobblers, who set up thefr
siraple working implements between the piled-up bundles of hay
and straw, consisting of small tables with thread, -wfre, and leather,
and who were busUy engaged at their trade, repafring the coverings
for the feet. I remarked at this tirae, as well as on several other
occasions, that the natives are by no raeans so indolent as they are
generally represented to be, but, on the contrary, that they avail
theraselves of every favourable opportunity of earning money. All
the caravansaries at the entrance of the to-wn were erowded, and there
was no other alternative except to pass through the whole town to
the other side. The to-wn-gate had a very promising appearance,
rising proudly and boldly into the afr ; I hoped to see corres
ponding buUdings, and saw instead wretched mud hovels and narrow
lanes ; so narrow, indeed, that the foot passengers were obUged
to step under the entrances of the hute to allow our baiU to pass
them. 2nd February. A few miles distant from Matara, we turned out
of the beaten road which leads from Delhi to Mutra, a town which
still remains under EngUsh govemment. Matara is a pretty Httle
town, with a very neat mosque, broad sfreete, and walled houses,
many of which, indeed, are decorated -with gaUeries, columns, or
sculptures of red sandstone.
'The appearance of the country here is of monotonous uniformity —
boundless plains, on which orchards and meadows alternately present
themselves, the latter apparently quite scorched up in consequence ofthe
dry season. The corn was afready a foot high ; but such large quantities
of yellow flowers were mixed with it, that there was great difficulty
in telling whether corn or weeds had been sown. The cultivation of
cotton is of very great importance here. The Indian plant does not,
indeed, attain the height and thickness of the Egyptian ; however, it

BARATPOOR — HINDON. 195
is considered that the quality of the cotton does not depend upon the
size of the plante, and that the cotton of this counfry is the finest and
the best.
I observed upon these plains littie houses here and there, buUt
upon artificiaUy-raised perpendicular raounds of clay, of from six to
eight feet high. There are no steps leading to the tops of these
mounds, the only means of access being by ladders, which can be
drawn up at night. Frora what I could draw frora the explanations
of my servants, which, however, I only partiaUy understood, they are
used by famiUes who live in retfred places, for security against tho
tigers, which ai-e here very frequently seen.
Srd February. Baratpoor. We passed a place which was over
grown, in broad patches, with misshapen stunted bushes — a rare
occurrence in this part of the country, where wood is scarce. M5'
driver bestowed upon this tangled brushwood the high-sounding
name of jungle. I should rather have compared tiiem with the
dwarfed bushes and shrubs of Iceland. The country beyond this
woody district had a very remarkable appearance ; the ground was
in many places tom and fissured, as if in consequence of an earth
quake. In the caravansary at Baratpoor there were a great number of
natives, soldiers, and particularly some vei-y rough-looking men,
of whora I felt inclined to be afraid : I was no longer in the English
territories, and alone among all these people. However, they be
haved themselves with the greatest civilitj', and greeted me in the
evening and raorning with a right hearty salaara. I think that a
simUar set of raen in our own country would scarcely have shown me
the same respect.
4th February. On the other side of the town, I saw two fine
monumente before the door, round temples with lofty cupolas, and
carved stone lattice work in the window openings. The flelds and
meadows were richly sfrewed with Indian fig-frees, a thing which I
have scarcely met with anywhere else, except in Syria and SicUy ; to
the right of the road was a low rocky peak, whose highest point
was cro-wned by a forfress. The dwelling-houses of the commanders,
instead of being sheltered by the waUs, rose high above them, and
were tastily surrounded by verandahs ; on the terrace of the principal
buUding was a handsome paviUon, supported upon pillars. The
outer walls of the fortress extended down into the vaUey below.
We had proceeded about fourteen mUes, when we carae upon some
monumente which had a very unique appearance. On a small spot,
shaded by beautiful frees, was a round waU, formed of a number of
flagstones of seven feet high and four feet -wide ; in the middle stood
three monuments of a circular form, built of large square stones.
The diameter of thefr tower part was about twelve feet, their height
about six. They had no entrance.
I also saw a new species of bfrd to-day. It was very similar in size
and form to the flamingo, with beautiful pinion feathers ; its plumage
was tinged with a rich whitish grey shade, the head was covered -with
deep red feathers. We rested this night at the somewhat large town
of Hindon, The only object which atfracted my notice here was a
N

193 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WOELD.
palace with such small windows, that they seemed more fltted for
dolls than for men.
6th February. As I was about to leave the caravansary this
morning, three arraed men placed themselves before my waggon, and
in spite of the exclamations of my people, prevented our starting.
At last, I succeeded in understanding that the dispute was about a
few pence, for having kept wateh before the door of my sleeping-room
during the night; which my people would not pay. The caravansary
did not appear to the cheprasse veiy safe, and he had requested a
guard iu the evening from the serdar (magistrate). The people
might have slept quite soundly in some corner of the com-t-yard, and,
perhaps, have dreamt of watching, for although I had looked out
several times during the night, there was not one of them to be seen ;
however, what can one expect for a few pence ? I satisfled them
with a small present, upon which they made a regular miHtary move
ment, and allowed us to proceed.
If I had been inclined to be timid, I must have been in con
tinual anxiety for several days from the appearance of the natives.
AU of them were armed -with sabres, bows and arrows, match
locks, formidable clubs bound with iron, and even shields of iron-
plate. These arras were also carried by the cattle tenders in the
fields. But nothing disturbed my equanimity, although ignorant of
the language, and with only the old cheprasse with rae ; I always
felt as though my last hours were not yet come. Nevertheless, I was
glad that we had passed by clear dayUght the dangerous ravines and
deep gorges through which our road lay for several mUes. From
these we entered a large valley, at the entrance of which was an
isolated mountain, surmounted by a fortress ; fom- railes further otf,
we came to a small group of trees, in the middle of whioh was a stone
terrace, five feet in height, upon which was a life-size statue of a
horse carved in stone. By the side of this a well was dug out ; a
kind of cistern, buUt of large blocks of red sandstone, with steps
leading up to the water.
Similar wells and cisterns, some of whioh are much larger,
screened by beautiful mango and tamarind trees; are frequently met
with in India, especially in districts where, as in the present one,
good springs are scarce. The Hindoos and Mahomedans have the
good belief that by the erection of works for general benefit, they may
more easily attain future happiness. When such water reservoirs and
groups of frets have been founded by Hindoos, several sculptured
flgures of their deities, or red painted stones, are commonly found
placed on them. At many of the wells, and cisterns also, a man is
placed, whose business it is to draw water for the weary travellers.
However agreeable the erection of these reservoirs may be in many
respects, there is one circumstaaice which detracts from their value ;
the people always wash and bathe in the same ones from which they
must procure their drinking water; But what objections wUl not
thfrst sUence ? I filled my jug as well as the others!
7th Febmary. DungerkamaluMia is a small village at the foot of
a low mountain. A short distance from the station lay a true Arabian
sand desert, but which was fortunately not of yery great extent.

JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY. Ul
The sand plains of India are generally capable of being cultivated,
as it is only necessary to dig a few feet deep to reach water, with
-which to irrigate the flelds. Even in this Httie desert ,wero a
few fine-looking wheat fields.
Tlus evening I thought that I should have been obUged to make
use of ray pistols. My waggoner always wanted every one to
give him the road ; if they did not do so, he abused them. To-day
we came upon half a dozen of armed traveUer-waggoners, who took
no notice of the oaUs of my driver, upon whieh he was enraged,
and thi-eatened to strike them with his whip. If it had come to
blows, we should, no doubt, in spite of my aid, have come off the
worst ; but they contented themselves with mutual abuse and threats,
and the feUows got out of the way.
I have everywhere remarked that the Indians jangle and threaten
a great deal, but that they never go beyond that. 1 have lived a great
deal among the people and observed them, and have often seen anger
and quarreUing, but never fighting. Indeed, when their anger lasts
long, they sit down together. The children never wrestle 'or puUeach
other about, either in sport or eamest. I only once saw two boys
engaged in eamest quarrel, when one of them so far forgot himself as
to give the other a box on the ear, but he did this as carefuUy
as if he received the blow himself. The boy who was struck
drew his sleeve over his cheek, and the quarrel was ended. Some
other chUdren had looked on from the ^stance, but took no part
in it. This good nature may partly depend upon the fact that the people
eat so little flesh, and, according to thefr reHgion, are so extremely
kind to all animals ; but I tlUnk still that there is sorae cowardice at
the bottora of it. I was told that a Hindoo could scarcely be per
suaded to enter a dark roora -without a light ; if a horse or ox makes
the sUghtest start, both great and small run frightened and shrieking
away. On the otiier side, again, I heard frora the EngHsh officers
that the sepoys were very brave soldiers. Does this courage come
-with the coat, or from the examplo of the English ?
During the last day I saw a great many poppy plantations. They
present a remarkable appearance ; the leaves are fatty and shining,
the flowers large and variegated. The extraction of the opium is
performed in a very simple, but exceedingly tedious manner. Tho
yet unripe poppy heads are cut in several places in the evening. A
white tenacious juice flows out of these incisions, which quickly
thickens by exposure to the afr, and remains hanging in small teai-s.
These tears are scraped off with a knife in the rooming, and poured
into vessels which have the form of a small cake. A second inferior
quantity is obtained by pressing and boiUng the poppy heads and
stems. In many boobsf and, foi- instance, in Zimmerman's " Pocket-Book
of Travels," I read under this head that the poppy plants reached a
height of forty feet in India and Persia, and that tho capsules were as
large as a chUd's head, and held nearly a quart of seeds; This is not
correct. I saw the flnest plantations in India-, and afterwards also
in Persia, but foimd that the plante were never more than three, and',
N 2

198 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
at the most, four feet high, and the capsule about as large round as a
small hen's egg.
Sth February. -Madopoor, a -wretched -village at the foot of some
low mountains. To-day also we passed through terrible ravines
and chasms, which Hke those of yesterday, were not near the moun
tains, but in the middle of the plains. The sight of sorae pahns was,
on the contrary, agreeable, the first I had seen since I left Benares ;
however, they bore no fruit. I was still raore surprised to see, in a
place so destitute of trees and shrubs, taraarind, and banyan or mango
trees planted singly, which, cultivated with great care, flourish -with
incomparable splendour and luxuriance. Thefr value is doubled when
it is kno-wn that imder each there is either a weU or a cistern.
Oth February. Indergur, a small, uniraportant town. We ap
proached to-day very ranch nearer to the low mountains which we had
afready seen yesterday. We soon found ourselves in narrow valleys,
whose outlete appeared to be closed with high, rocky weUs. Upon
some of the higher mountain peaks stood little kiosks, dedicated to
the meraory of the Suttis. The Suttis are those women who are
burnt with the corpse of thefr husbands. According to the statement
of the Hindoos, they are not compeUed to do so, but thefr relations
insult and neglect them when they do not, and they are driven out of
society ; consequently the poor woraen generally give their free con
sent. Upon the occasion, they are handsomely dressed and orna
mented, and frequently stupifled with opium almost to madness ; are
led with music and singing to the place where the corpse of the
hiisband, wrapped in white muslin, lies upon the funeral pUe. At
the moment that the victim throws herself upon the corpse, the wood
is Hghted on all sides. At the same time, a deafening noise is com
menced witb musical instrumente, and every one begins to shout and
sing, in order to smother the howling of the poor woraan. After the
burning, the bones are collected, placed in an urn, and interred upon
some eminence under a small monuraent. Only the wives (and of
these only the principal or favom-ite ones) of the wealthy or noble
have the happiness to be burnt ! Since the conquest of Hindostan
by the English, these horrible scenes are not permitted to tako
place. The mountain scenery alternated with open plains, and towards
evening we came to stUl more beautiful mountains. A small
fortress, which was situated upon the slope of a mountain, quite
exposed, presented a yery interesting appearance ; the mosques, bai--
racks, little garden?; &c., could be entfrely overlooked. At the foot of
this fortress lay our jijght-quarters.
10th February. .Notara. We traveUed a long distance through
narrow valleys, upon roads which were so stony that it was scarcely
possible to ride, and I thought every raoraent that the waggon must
be broken to pieces. So long as' the sun was not scorching on my head,
I walked by the side, but I was soon compelled to seek the shade of
the linen covering of the waggon. I bound up my forehead tightly,
grasped both sides of the car, and submitted to my fate. The jungle
which surrounded us resembled in beauty and luxuriance that near
Baratpoor ;but it afforded me more amusement, as it was inhabited

LAKARI— KOTTAH. 199
by wUd apes. They were tolerably large, -with yellowish, brown hafr,
black faces, and very long taUs.
It was verypretty to see how anxious the mothers were about
thefr young. When! startled them, she took one upon her back, the
other clung to her breast, and witii this double weight she not only
sprung from branch to branch, but even from free to free.
If I had only possessed somewhat more imaginative power, I
should have taken the forest for a fafry wood, for besides the raerry
monkeys, I saw many remarkable things. The rock sides and debris
to the left of the road, for example, had the most singular and varied
forms. Some resembled the ruins of temples and houses, others trees ;
indeed, the figure of a woman with a child in her arms, was so natu
ral, that I could scarcely help feeUng a regret at seeing it tumed into
this dismal lifelessness. Further on, lay a gate, whose noble artistic
consfruction so deceived me, that I long sought for the ruins of the
town to whieh it appeared to lead.
Not far distant from the jungle is the Uttle town of Lakari, situated
upon the almost perpendicular decli-vity of a mountein ridge, and also
protected by fortiflcations. A beautiful pond, a lai-ge weU -with an
artificial portico, terraces with Hindoo idols and Mahomedan funeral
monuments, Ue in very attractive disorder. Before Notara I found
several alters, -with the sacred buU carved in red stone. In the town
itself stood a handsome monument, an open temple with columns upon
a stone terrace, which was surrounded with fine reUefs, representing
elephants and riders.
There was no caravansary at this place, and I was obUged to go
about the streets with my cumbrous equipage in search of a lodging ;
but as no one would receive a Christian, not from any want of good
nature, but in consequence of an erroneous reUgious opinion that a
house which has been visited by an unbeUever is defiled. This opinion
also extends to raany other matters.
There was no altemative left for me except to pass the night in
an open verandah.
In this town I saw a circurastance which proved the araiabiUty of
the people. A donkey, that was maimed either frora its bfrth or by
an accident, was dragging itself with great exertion across the street,
a task which it required several minutes to accomplish. Several
people who were coming that way with thefr loaded animals waited
with great patience, without making a single raurraur or raising
a hand to drive the creature on. Many of the inhabitants came
out of thefr houses and gave it fodder, aiid every passer-by turned
out of the way for it. This feeling of sympathy touched me
uncomraonly. llth February. On this, the thirteenth day of my journey, I reached
Kottah. I was very weU satisfied with my servants and driver,
and indeed with the journey altogether ! The owners of the caravan
saries had not charged me more than a native, and had afforded rae
aU the conveniences which the strict rules of religion allowed. I had
passed the nights in open chambers, even under the open sky, sur
rounded by people of the poorest and lowest classes, and never
received the sUghtest ill-freatment either by word or deed. I never.

209 A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
had anything stolen, and when ever I gave any Httle trifle to a childj*
such as a piece of bread, cheese, or the like, their parents always
endeavoured to show their gratitude by other acts of kindness. Oh,^
that the Europeans only knew how easily these simple children of
nature might be won by attention and kindness ! But, unfortunately,
they will continue to govern them by force, and treat them with
neglect and severity.
Kottah is the chief city of the kingdom of Rajpeotan. Here,
as in all those provinces which the English government has left
under the dominion of their native princes, tiiere is an EngHsh
official appointed, who bears the title of the "Resident." 'These
residents might be properly called " kings," or at least the king's
governors, since the real kings cannot do anythmg without their
consent. These miserable shadows of Idngs dare not, for example,
cross the boundaries of thefr own states without permission of the
resident. The more iraportant fortresses of the country have
Fln^lish garrisons, and here and there small EngUsh military
stations are established.
This control is in some respecte beneficial to the people, in others
injurious. The custom of bui-ning -widows is done away with,
and strictly forbidden; as well as the horrible punishment of being
trodden to death by elephants, or dragged along, tied to their tails.
On the other hand, the taxation is increased, for the king is obliged
to pay a considerable fribute for the right of ruling according
to the wUl of the resident. This naturally comes out of the pockets
of the people. The King of Rajpootan pays annuaUy 300,000 rupees
(£30,000) to the EngHsh government.
The resident at Kottah, Captain Burden, was an intimate friend
of Dr. Sprenger's, who had previously acquainted him with my
speedy arrival. But, unfortunately, he was at that time inspecting
the different miUtary stations ; however, he had before his departure
made arrangemente, for my reception, and requested Dr. RoUand to
see them carried out. He carried his attentions so far as to send on
books, newspapers, and servante, to the last station, which, however,
I missed, as my driver had turned off from the main road, during the
last two days, into a shorter one. I reached the handsome bungalow
of the resident, and found the house quite vacant ; Mrs. Burden,
together with her chUdren, had accompanied her husband, as is
generally the case in India, where frequent change of air is very
necessary for Europeans. The house, the servante, and sepoys which
were left, and the captain's palanquin and equipage, were placed
'.entfrely at my disposal ; and in order to complete my happiness. Dr.
RoUand was so good as to accompany me in aU my excursions.
12th. February This morning, the king, Ram-Singh, who had
been immediately informed of my arrival, sent me a quantity of
finite and sweetmeats in largo baskets, his own riding elephant,
handaomely caparisoned, an officer on horseback, and some soldiers. I
was very soon seated with Dr. RoUand in the howdah, and trotted to
the neighbouring! town. Kottah contains about 30,000 inhabitants,
• Children are generally considered as impure nntil the ninth year, and ane therefore
not subject to the laws oftheir religion.

KOTTAH — DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN. 201
and lies on the river Chumbal, in a fsir stretching and, in somo
places, very rocky plain, 1,300 feet above the level of the sea. The
town, which is conspicuously situated, is surrounded by strong
fortified works, upon which are placed fifty pieces of cannon. The
immediate neighbourhood is rocky, naked, and barren. The interior
of the town is sepai-ated into three parts by as many gates. The
first part is inhabited hy the poorer classes, and appeared very
wretched. In the two other parte the fradespeople and the gentry
reside; they have an incomparably better aspect. The principal
sfreet, although uneven and stony, is sufficiently wide to allow
carriages, and ponderous beasts ofbm-den, to pass witiiout hinderance.
The architectiii-e of the houses is in the highest degree original.
The smallness of the -windows had already atfracted my notice in
Benares, here they are so narrow and low that it is hardly possible
to put the head out ; they are for the most part closed with finely
worked stone lattice, instead of glass. Many of the houses have large
alcoves ; in others there are spacious saloons on the first floor, which
rest on pillars ajid occupy the whole front of the house ; many of these
halls were separated by partition walls into smaUer open saloons. At
both corners of the hall were decorated paviHons, and at the further end,
doors leading to the interior of the house. These halls are generaUy
used as shops and places of business ; also as the resort oi idlers, who
sit upon mats and ottomans, sraoking thefr hookas and watching the
bustle in the streets. In other houses, again, the front walls were
painted in fresco, -with terrible-looking dragons, tigers, lions, twice or
thrice as large as Hfe, sfretching thefr tongues out with hideous
griraaces ; or with deities, flowers, arabesques, &c., without sense or
taste grouped together, raiserably executed, and bedaubed -with the
most glaring colours.
The numerous handsome Hindoo temples, aU buUt upon lofty stone
terraces, form an agreeable featui-£ of the town. They are higher,
more capacious, and flner buUdings than those of Benares, with the
exception of the Bi.syishas. The temples here stand in open halls,
intersected by colonnades, ornamented -with several quadrangular
towers, and surmounted by a cupola of from twenty to forty feet in
height. The sanctuary is in the middle ; it is a small, carefully
enclosed building, with a door leading into it. This door, as well as
the piUars and friezes, is covered with beautiful sculptures; the
square towers are quite as carefuUy constnieted as those at Benares.
Hideous statoes and fanciful flgures stand under the halls, some of
whidi are painted in bright red colours. On the side walls of tho
terraces are arabesques, elephants, horses, &c., carved in relief.
The royal palace lies at the extremity of the third part of the
town, and forms a town within a town, or rather a fortress in a
fortress, as it is surrounded by immense fortified walls, which com
mand the to-wn as well as the country round it; many large and
small buildings are enclosed within these walls, but do not present
anything remarkable beyond thefr handsome halls. Had the resident
been in Kottah I should haiv.e heen presraited to the king, but as it
was not etiquette in his absence, I was compeUed to , put up with my
disappointment.

203 A woman's journey EOUND THE WORLD.
From the to-wn we proceeded to Armomevas, one of the neigh
bouring palaoes of the king's. The road to it was indescribably bad,
full of rocks and large stones. I was astonished to see with what
dexterity our elephant set his plump feet between them, and
travelled on as quickly as if he was going over the loveliest road.
When I expressed my surprise to Dr. RoUand that the king
should not not have a good road made to his residence, which he so
often visited, he informed me that it was a maxim with all Indian
monarchs not to make roads, for, according to thefr opinion, in case of
a war, they offered too great facilities to the invasion of the enemy.
The castle is small and unimportant. It Ues on the river
Chumbal, which has here hoUowed out for itself a reraarkably deep
bed in the rock. Picturesque ravines and groups of rock form its
shores. The garden of the castle is so thickly planted with orange, citron,
and other trees, that there is not room for even the smaUest fiowering
plant or shrub.
The few flowers which the Indian gardens contain, are placed at
the entrances. The paths are raised two feet, as the ground is always
muddy and damp in consequence of the frequent watering. Most of
the Indian gardens which I afterwards saw reserabled these.
The king frequently amuses himself here with tiger-hunting.
Somewhat higher up the river small towers are erected upon slight
erainences ; the tigers are driven graduaUy towards the water, and
always more and more hemraed in, untU they are within shot of the
towers ; the king and his friends sit securely upon the tops of the
towers, and fire bravely upon the wild beasts.
Near the castle was a sraaU wooden teraple, which had just
been built ; the principal part, however, the amiable idols, was
awanting. It was owing to this fortunate cfrcumstance that we
were allowed to enter the sanctuary, which consisted of a sraaU
marble kiosk standing in the centre of the haU, The temple
and the columns were covered with bad paintings in the most
brilliant colours. It is strange that neither the Hindoos nor the
Mahometans should have applied themselves to painting, for there
are neither good pictures nor drawings to be seen among any of these
people, although they have displayed such proficiency in architecture,
carving in relief, and in mosaic work.
We lastly visited a remarkably fine wood of tamarind and raango
trees, under the shadows of which the ashes of a number of kings are
preserved in handsome monuments. These monuments consist of
open temples, with broad fiights of ten or twelve steps leading
up to them. At the bottom of the steps, on each side, stand stone
figures of elephants. Some of the temples are ornamented with
beautiful sculptures.
The evening was passed in all kinds of amusemente. The good
doctor would have made me acquainted with all the arts of the
Hindoos; however, the greater number of them were no longer new
to me. A snake-charmer exhibited his little society,' which per
formed yery clever tricks, and also allowed the raost poisonous ser
pents to twine themselves round his body, and the largest scorpions

KOTTAH — ENTERTAINMENTS AND DANCES. 203
1-an over his ai-ms aud legs. Afterwards, four elegant female dancers
appeared dressed in muslin, ornamented -with gold and silver, and
loaded with jewellery, — ears, forehead, neck, breast, loins, hands,
arms, feet, in short, every part of the body was covered with gold,
silver, and precious stones; even the toes were ornamented with them,
and from the nose, a large ring with three stones hung over tho
mouth. Two of the dancers first commenced. Their dance consisted
of the same winding movements which I had already seen in
Benai-es, only they were far more animated, and twisted thefr fingers,
hands, and arms, about in every conceivable manner. They might
well be said to dance with their arms but not with their feet. They
danced for ten minutes without singing, then they began to scream,
without however keeping time, and thefr raotions became more
violent and wild, until in about half an hom- both strength and voice
failed, they stopped quite exhausted, and made way for their
sisters, who repeated the same spectacle. Dr. RoUand told me
that they represented a love story, in which every -vfrtue and pas
sion, such as truth, self-devotion, hate, persecution, despair, &c.,
played a part. The musicians stood a little behind the dancers,
and followed all their moveraents. The whole space which such a
corapany requfre, is at the raost ten feet in length and eight broad.
The good Hindoos amuse theraselves for hours together with these
tasteless repetitions.
I reineraber having read in books that the Indian feraale dancers
were far more graceful than the Em-opean, that their songs were
highly melodious, and that their pantomime was tender, inspiring,
and attractive. I should scarcely think the authors of such books
could have been in India ! Not less exaggerated are the descriptions
of others, who affirm that there are no dances more indelicate tiian
those of the Indians. I raight again ask these people if they had
ever seen the Sammaquecca and Refolosa in Valparaiso, the female
dancers of Tahiti, or even our own in flesh-coloured leggings ? The
dresses of the females in Rajpootan and some parts of Bundelkund
are very different from those of other parts of India. They wear
long, coloured, many-folded skfrts, tight bodies, which ate so short
that they scarcely cover the breasts ; and, over this, a blue mantle, in
which they envelope the upper part of the body, the head, and the
face, and allow a part to hang down in front Hke a veU. Girls who do
not always have the head covered, nearly resemble our own peasant
gfrls. Like the dancers, they are overloaded with jewellery; when
they cannot afford gold and silver, they content themselves with some
other metals. They wear also rings of horn, bone, or glass beads, on
the flngers, arms, and feet. On the feet they carry bells, so that they
are heard at a distence of sixty paces ; the toes are covered with broad
heavy rings, and they have rings hanging from their noses down to
the chin, which they are obUged to tie up at meal time. I pitied the
poor creatures, who suffered not a little from their flnery ! The eye
brows and eyeUds are dyed black whUe the children are very young,
and they frequently paint themselves with dark-blue streaks of a
flnger's breadth over the eyebrows, and with spots on the forehead.
The adult women tattoo thefr breasts, foreheads, noses, or temples.

204 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD.
with red, white, or yeUow colours, according as they are particularly
attached to one or the .other deity; Many wear amulets or miniatures
hung round their neeks, so that I at flrst thought they were Catholics,
and felt gratifled at the brilliant successes of the missionaries. But,
when I came nearer to one of the people, that I might see these
pictures better, what did I discover there? Perhaps a beautiful
Madonna! — a fafr -haired angel's head! — an enthusiastic Antonio of
Padua ! Ah no ! I was met by the eight-armed god Shiva grinning
at me, the ox's head of Vishnu, the long-tongued goddess KaUi. The
amulets contained, most probably, some of the ashes of one of thefr
martyrs who had been burned, or a nail, a fragment of skin, a hafr
of a saint, a splinter from the bone of a sacred animal, &c.
13th February. Dr. RoUand conducted me to the little to-wn of
Kesho-Rae-Patum, one of the raost sacred in Bunda and Rajpootan.
It lies on the other side of the river, six mUes from Kottah. A great
number of pUgrims corae here to bathe, as the water is considered
particularly sacred at this spot. This beUef cannot be condemned,
when it is remembered how many Christians there are who give the
preference to the Holy Maria at Maria-ZeU, Einsiedeln, or Loretto,
which, nevertheless, all represent one and the sarae.
Hand,sorae steps lead frora the heights on the banks down to the
river, and Brahmins sit in pretty kiosks to take money from believers
for the honour of the gods. On one of the fUghts of steps lay a very
large tortoise. It might quietly sun itself there in safety— -no one
thought of catching it. It came out ,of the sacred river ; indeed, it
might, perhaps, be the incarnation of the god Vishnu himself.*
Along the river stood nurabers of stone altars, with sraall bulls, and
other crableraatioal flgures, also cut in stone. The town itself is small
and miserable, but the temple is large and handsome.
The priests wore here so tolerant as to adrait us to all parte of the
{emple. It is open on aU sides, and forras an .octagon, GaUeries run
round the upper part, one-half of which are for woraen, the other for
the musicians. The sanctuary stands at the back of the temple ; five
bells hang before it, which are struck when women enter the temple;
they rung out also at ray entrance. The curtained and closed doors
were then opened, and afforded us a fuU view of the interior. We saw
there a little group of idols carved in stone. The people who followed
us with curiosity commenced a gentle muttering upon the opening of
the doors. I turned round, somewhat startied, thmking that it was
dfrected against us and indicated anger, but it was the prayers, which
they repeated in a low voice and witii a feeling of devotion. One of
the BrahnUiis brushed off the flies from the inteUigent countenances
of the gods.
Several chapels join the large teraple, and were all opened to us.
They contained red-painted stones or pictures. In the front court site
a stone flgure of a saint under a covering, completely clothed, and with
even a cap on the head. On the opposite bank of the river, a small
hill rises, upon whidh reste the figure of a large and rather plump ox
hewn in stone. This hill is caUed the " holy mountain."
* The god yishnu is represented as a tortoise.

DEPAETUEE FEOM KOTTAH. 205
Captain Burden has built a very pretty house near the holy moun
tain, where he sometimes lives with his family. I saw there a flne
coUection of stuffed birds, which he had brought himself from tho
Himalayas. I was particularly struck by the pheasants, somo of
which shone with quite a metallic lustre ; and there were sorae not
less beautiful specimens of heathoocks.
I had now seen all, and therefore asked the doctor to order me
a conveyance to Indor, 180 miles distant, for the next day. He sur
prised me witii the offer, on the part of the king, to provide me -with
as many camels as I required, and two sepoys on horseback as atten
dants. I asked for two ; the one for rnyself, the other for the driver
and the servants which Dr. RoUand sent with me.

CHAPTER XV.
JOUENEY EEOM DELHI TO BOMBAY CONTINUED.
Tkavelling on Indian Camels — ^My Meeting with the Bubdon Family — The Dif-
FEBENT Classes of Women among the Native Population in India — Udjein —
Captain IIamilton — ^Introduction at Court— Manufacture of Icf, — The Eock
Temples of Adjvnta — ^A Tiger Hunt — The Eoce Temples op Elora — The Fortress
OP Dowlutabad.
14th Febeuaey. The camels were ordered at 5 o'clock in the
morning, but it was not until towards noon that they came, each with
a driver. When they saw my portmanteau (twenty-flve pounds in
weight), they were quite puzzled to know what to do with it. It
was useless my explaining to them how the luggage is carried in
Egypt, and that I had been accustomed to carry very Uttle with me
on ray own animal : they were used to a different plan, and would
not depart from it.
TraveUing on camels is always unpleasant and troublesome. The
jolting motion of the animal produces in many people the same ill
effecte as the rocldng ofa ship on the sea; but in India it is almost
unbearable, on account of the inconvenience of the arrangements.
Here each animal has a driver, who sits in front and takes the best
place ; the traveUer has only a Httle space left for him on the hinder
part of the animal.
Dr. Rolland advised me at once to put up with the inconvenience
as well as I could. He told me that I should faU in with Captain
Burdon in the next day or two, and it would be easy to obtain a
more convenient conveyance frora hira. I followed his advice, aUowed
my luggage to be carried, and patiently mounted my camel.
We passed through extensive plains, which were raost reraarkable
for sorae considerable flax plantations, and came to a beautiful lake,
near to which lay a very pretty palace. Towards evemng, we reached
the little village of Moasa, where we stayed for the night.
In those countries which are governed by native princes, there are
neither roads nor arrangements for traveUing; although in every
village and to-wn there are people appointed whose business it is to
direct travellers on their way and carry thefr luggage, for which they
are paid a smaU fee. Those traveUers who have a guard from the
king or aumU (governor), or a cheprasse with thera, do not pay
anything for this attendance ; others give them a trifle for their ser
vices, according as the distance is greater or less.
When I reached Moasa, every one hastened to offer me their ser
vices — for I fravelled with the king's people, and in this part of the
country a European woman is a rarity. 'They brought rae wood,
milk, and eggs. My table was always rather frugally furnished :
at the best I had rice boiled in milk or some eggs, but generally only
rice, with water and salt. A leathern vessel for water, a little sauce-

TRAVELLING ON INDIAN CAMELS. 207
pan for boiUng in, a handful of salt, and some rice and bread, were all
that I took with mc.
15th February. Late in the evening I reached Nurankura, a
small place surrounded by low mountains. I found here some tonte
belonging to Captain Burdon, a maid, and a servant. Terribly
fatigued, I entered one of the tents directly, in order to rest rayself.
Scarcely had I taken possession of the divan, than the raaid came into
the tent, and, without any observation, commenced kneading me about
with her hands. I would have stopped her, but she explained to me
that when a person was fatigued it was very refreshing. For a quar
ter of an hour she pressed ray body from head to foot vigorously,
and it certainly produced a good effect — I found myself rauch relieved
und strengthened. This custora of pressing and kneading is very cora
mon in India, as well as in all Oriental counfries, especially after the
bath; andEuropeans also wUUnglyallowthemselvestobe operated upon.
The maid informed rae, partly by signs, partly by words, that I
had been expected since noon ; that a palanquin stood ready for rae,
and that I could sleep as well in it as in the tent. I was rejoiced at
this, and again started on my journey at 11 o'clock at night. The
country was indeed, as I knew, infested with tigers, but as several
torch-bearers accorapanied us, and the tigers are sworn enemies of
Ught, I could composedly continue ray uninterrupted sleep. About
3 o'clock in the morning, I was set down again in a tent, which was
prepared for my reception, and furnished with every convenience.
16th February. This raorning I made the acquaintance of the
amiable famUy of the Burdens. They haye seven children, whom
they educate chiefly themselves. They live very pleasantly and
comfortably, although they are wholly thro-wn on their own resources
for amusement, as there are, with the exception of Dr. Rolland, no
Europeans in Kottah. It is only very rarely that they are visited by
officers who may be passing through, and I was tho tfrst European
female Mrs. Burdon had seen for four years.
I passed the raost delightful day in this family circle. I was not
a little astonished to find here all the conveniences of a well-regulated
house ; and I must take this opportunity of describing, in few words,
the mode of travelUng adopted by the finglish officers and officials in
Indiai, In the fii-st place, they have tente which are so large, that they
contain two or three rooms, one which I saw was worth more than
800 rupees (£80). They take with them corresponding furniture,
from a footetool to the most elegant divan ; in fact, nearly the whole
of thehouse and cooking utensUs. They have also a raultitude of
servants, every one of whom has his particular occupation, whieh he
understands exceedingly well. The travellers, after passing the night
in thefr beds, about 3 o'clock in the morning either lie or sit in easy
palanquins, or mount on horseback, and after four or five hours' ride,
dismount, and partake of a hot breakfast under tents. They have
every household accommodation, carry on their ordinary occupations,
take their meals at their usual hours, and are, in fact, entfrely at home.
The cook always .proceeds on his journey at night. As soon as
the tents are vacated, they are taken down and quickly removed, and

208 A woman's journI;y eouSD the world.
as quickly re-erfeeted : there is no scarcity of hands or of beasts of
burden. In the most cultivated countries of Europe, people do not
travel with so much luxury and ease as in India.
In the evening, I was obUged to take my departure again. Captain
Burdon very kindly offered me the use of his palanquin and the neces
sary bearers as far as Indos, but I pitied the people too much, and de
clared that I did not find traveUing on camels unpleasant ; that in fact;
on account of the open view, that mode was to be preferred to palan-*
quins. However, on account of my Httle portmanteau, I took a third
camel. I left the sepoys behind here. This evening we went eight
mUes towards the Uttle town Patau.
17th February. It was not till this raorning that I saw Patau
was situated on a romantic chain of hills, and possesses' several re
markably handsome temples, in the open halls belonging to which
are placed sculptured stone figures, the size of Ufe. The arabesq-nes
and figures on the pillars were sharply executed in reUef. In the val
leys which we passed through, there was a large quantity of basaltic
rock and most beautifully crystallized quartz. Towards evening, we
reached Batschbaohar, a miserable little town.
18th February. Rumtscha is somewhat larger and better. I was
obliged to put up my bed in the middle of the bazaar under an open
verandah. Upon this road there were no caravansaries. Half of the
inhabitants of the town gathered round me, and wafched all my
raotions and doings with the greatest attention. I afforded them
an opportunity of studying the appearance of an angry European
female, as I was very much displeased -with my people, and, in
spite of my slight knowledge of the language, scolded them heartUy.
They allowed the camels to go so lazily, that although we had tra
velled since early in the morning until late in the evening, we had
not gone more than twenty or twenty-two miles, not faster than
an ox-waggon would have gone. I made them imderstand that this
negUgence must not happen again. I must now take occasion to
contradict those persons who affirm that the camel can fravel on the
average eighty mUes daUy, and that even when they go slowly, thefr
steps are very long. I examine every circumstance very accurateljr,
and then form an opinion from my own experience, without allowing
myself to be misled by what has been written about it. Before com
mencing a journey, I observe not only the principal distances, but
also those between the individual places, arrange a plan of ray
jotimey with the help of friends who are acquainted with the subject,
and by this means have the advantage over my driver, who cannot
persuade- me that we have gone forty or sixty miles, when we have
not gone more than half this distance. Moreover, I was able, while
travelUng from Delhi to Kottah by the ox-waggon, to observe several
camel equipages, which I fell in with every evening at the same
night station. It is frue that I had most exoeUent oxen, and that
the camels were ordinary ; but in this journey, with good camels, I
did not go more than thirty, or at the utmost, thirty-two miles in
the day, and travelled from 4 o'clock in the moming untU 6 in the
evening, without any other stoppage than two hours at noon. A
camel which is able to fravel eighty miles in a day is an exception to

RANERA — UDJEIN. 209
the general rule, and would scarcely perform such a feat the second
or third time.
19 th February. Ranera is an unimportant place. I was here
offered a cow-stall to sleep in. It was indeed kept very clean ; but I
preferred sleeping in the open afr.
TUl a late hour of the night this town was very Uvely : proces
sions of raen and a number of women and children followed the noise
of the tam-tam, which they accompanied with a wild, howUng song,
and proceeded to some tree, under which an image of an idol was
set up^
We had on this day to cross several ranges of low hills. The
imcultivated ground was everywhere scorched up by the sun ; * never
theless, the plantations of poppies, flax, com, and cotton, &c., grew
yery luxuriantiy. Water-dykes were let into the flelds on every side,
and peasante, with thefr yokes of oxen, were engaged in bringing
water frora the wells and streams. I did not see any women at work.
In my nuraerous journeys, I had an opportunity of observing that
the lot of the poorer classes of women in India, in the East, and among
coloured people generaUy, was not so hard as it is beUeved to be. In
the towns where Europeans reside, for example, thefr linen is washed
and prepared by men ; it is very seldom that it is necessary for women
to take part in out-door labour ; they carry wood, water, or any other
heavy burdens only in thefr own houses. At harvest time, indeed,
the woraen are seen in the fields, but there also they only do the
Hghter kind of work. If carriages with horses or oxen are seen, the
woraen and chUdren are always seated upon thera, and the men walk
by the side, often laden with bundles. When there are no beasts of
burden -with the party, the men carry the chUdi-en aud baggage. I
also never saw a man iU use his wife or child. I heartily wish that
the women of the poorer classes in my own country were treated with
only half the consideration which I saw in all other parts of the
world. 20th February. Udjein on the Seepa, one of the oldest and best
built towns of India, is the capital of the kingdom of Sindhia, with a
population of more than 100,000 souls.
The architecture of this town is quite peculiar : the front walls of
the houses, only one story high, are constructed of wood, and fur
nished -with large regular window openings in the upper part, which
are securely closed by bearas, instead of glass.- In the interior, the
aparttuents are built very lofty and airy : they have the full height
frora the level of the groimd to the roof, without the interruption of
an interniediate arch. The outer walls and beams of the houses are
painted -with a dark- brown oil colour, whieh gave to the town an
indescribably dusky appearance.
Two houses were remarkable for their size and the uncommonly
flne execution of the wood carvings. They contained two stories,
and were very tastefully ornamented with galleries, pillars, friezea,
niches, &c. As far as I could leam from the answers I received to
my questions,- and the numerous servants and soldiers walking about
• Althongh only the beginning of spring, the temperature rose cluriiig the day as
high as 95°-^99» Fah.

210 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
before them, they were the palaces of the aumU and the Queen
Widow of Madhadji-Sindhia.
We passed through the entire town ; the sfreets were broad, the
bazaars very extensive, and so overcrowded with men, that we were
ft-equently compelled to stop; it happened to be a large market.
Upon such occasions in India, as well as at great festivals and
meetings of people, I never once saw any one intoxicated, although
there was no lack of intoxicating drinks. The men here are temperate,
and restrain themselves, yet without forming into societies.-
Outside the town I found an open verandah, in which I took up
my quarters for the night.
I was here a witness of a deplorable scene, a consequence of an
erroneous religious belief of the otherwise amiable Hindoos. Not far
frora the verandah lay a fakfr, outstretched upon the earth, without
any signs of life ; many of the passers-by stopped, looked at hira, and
then went on thefr way. No one spoke to or helped him. The poor
man had sunk exhausted on this spot, and was no longer capable of
saying to what caste he belonged. I took heart, approached him, and
raised the head-cloth, which had fallen over a part of his face ; two
glassy eyes stared at me. I felt the body ; it was stiff and cold. My
help came too late.
The next morning the corpse stUl lay in the same place. I was
informed that they waited to see if any relations would come to carry
it away, if not it would be removed by the pariahs
21st February. In the afternoon I reached Indor, the capital of the
kingdom of Holkar.
-^s I approached the dwelUng of the Europeans, I found them
just about to ride out. The equipage of the resident, Mr. Hamilton,
to whom I had letters, was £stinguishable from the others by its
greater splendour. Four beautiful horses were harnessed to an open
landau, and four servants, in Oriental Uveries, ran by the side of the
carriage. The gentlemen had scarcely perceived my approach, when
they stopped, and sent a servant towards me ; they, perhaps, wished
to know what chance had thrown a solitary European female into
this remote country. My servant, who already had the letter to Mr.
Hamilton in his hand, hastened to him directly, and gave it to him.
Mr. HamUton read it hastUy through, alighted from ms carriage im
mediately, came and received me very cordiaUy. My shabby clothes,
faded by the sun, were of no account to him, and he did not treat me
with less respect, because I came without much baggage, and without
a. train of attendants.
He conducted me himself to the bungalow, set apart for strangers,
offered me several rooms, and remained until he saw that the servants
had properly provided all conveniences. After he had given me a
servant for my own exclusive use, and had ordered a guard before
the bungalow, in -which I was about to live alone, he took his
departure, and promised to send for me to dinner in an hour.
A few hundred paces distant from the bungalow is the palace of
the resident ; it is a building of veiy great beauty, constructed of
large, square stones, in a pure Italian style of architecture. Broad
flights, of steps led up into halls which are peculiarly remarkabie for

INDOE— INTRODUCTION AT COURT. 211
their magnitude and beautifully arched roofs, the latter being flner
than any that I had yet seen. The saloons, rooms, and internal
arrangements corresponded to the high expectations wluch the sight
of the outeide raised.
It was a Sunday, and I had the pleasure of flnding the whole
Em-opean society of Indor assembled at the house of the resident. It
consisted of three families. My astonishment at the magnificence
surroraiding me, at the luxuries at table, was yet more increased
when a complete, well-trained band of musicians coraraenced playing
fine overtures and some famiUar German melodies. After dinner
Mr. HamUton introduced Qie chaplain to me, a Tyrolese, named
Naher. This active man had established his chapel m the space of
three years, the congregation consisting chiefly of young natives.
I was invited to be present on the following morning at the first
operation performed here, by a European surgeon, on a patient
under the influence of ether. A lai-ge turaour was to be extracted
fi-ora the neck of a native. Unfortunately the inhalation did not
turn out as was expected : the patient carae to again after the flrst
incision, and began shrieking fearfully. I hastily left the roora, for
I pitied the poor creature too rauch to bear his cries. The operation
indeed was successful, but the raan suffered considerable pain.
During breakfast, Mr. HaraUton proposed that I should exchange
my apartraents in the bungalow for a simUar one in his palace,
because the going backwards and forwards at each raeal tirae was
very fatiguing. He placed at my disposal the rooms of his wife, who
was deceased, and appointed me a feraale servant.
Alter tiffen (lunch) I was to see the town, and be presented at
court. I employed the intermediate time in visiting Mir. and Mrs.
Naher. 'The latter, who was also a Gerraan, was raoved even to
tears when she saw me : for fifteen years she had not spoken with a
feUow-country woman.
The to-wn of Indor contains nearly 25,000 inhabitants ; it is not
fortified ; the houses are built in the same manner as those in Udjein.
The royal palace stands in the centre of the town, and forms a
quadrangle. The middle of the front rises in the form of a pyramid,
to the height of six stories. A remarkably lofty and very handsome
gateway, flanked on both sides by round and somewhat projecting
towers, leads into the court-yard. The exterior of the palace is com
pletely covered with frescoes, for the most part representing
elephante and horses, and from a distance they present a good
appearance. The interior is separated into several courts. In the
first court, on the ground floor, is situated a saloon, surrounded by
two rows of wooden piUars. The Durwar (ministerial council) is
held here. In the flrst story of the same buUding a flne open saloon
is appropriated to the use of some sacred oxen.
Opposite this cattle-stall is the reception-roora. Dark stafrs,
which require to be lighted in broad daylight, lead to the royal
apartments. The stafrs are said to be equaUy dark in almost aU the
Indian palaces ; they believe it is a security against enemies, or, at
least, that it makes their entrance more difficult. In the reception
saloon sat the queen, Jeswont-Rao-Holcar, an aged, chUdless widow ;
o

312 A WOMAN S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
at her side her adopted son. Prince Hury-Rao-Holcar, a youth of
fourteen years, with very good-natured features and expressive eyes.
' Seate, consisting of cushions, were placed for us by their side.
The young prince spoke broken EngHsh, and the questions which he
put to rae proved him to be well acquainted with geography. His
mundsch, * a native, was represented as a man of intelUgence and
leaming. I could not find an opportunity, after the audience, of cora-
plimenting hira upon the progress which the prince had made. The
dress of the queen and of the prince consisted of white Dacca rausUn ;
the prince had several precious stones and pearls upon his turban,
breast, and arms. The queen was not veUed, although Mr. Hamilton
was present.
All the apartments and passages were erowded with servants,
who, without the sUghtest ceremony, came into the audience-hall,
that they might observe us raore closely ; we sat in a complete crowd.
We were offered sweetmeats and fraite, sprinkled with rose-
water, and some attar of roses was put upon our handkerchiefs.
After some tirae areca nuts and betel leaves were brought on sUver
plates, which the queen herself handed to us ; this is a sign that the
audience is at an end, and -visitors cannot leave untU it is raade.
Before we got up to go, large wreaths of jasmine were hung round
our necks, and small ones round our wriste. Fruite and sweet
meats were also sent home to us.
The queen had given the mundsch dfrections to conduct us round
the whole of the palace. It is not very large, and the rooms, with
the exception of the reception-saloon, are very simple, and almost
without furniture; in each, cushions covered with white musUn Ue
npon the floor.
As we stood upon the terrace of the house, we saw the prince ride
out. Two servants led his horse, and a number of attendante sur
rounded him. Several officers accompanied him upon elephants, and
mounted soldiers closed the procession. The latter wore wide, white
trousers, short blue jackets, and handsome round caps; they looked
very well. The people raised a low raurraur when they saw the
prince, as an indication of thefr pleasure.
The raundsch was good enough to show rae the mode adopted for
making ice. The proper time for this is during the mouths of
December and January; although,-even in the month of February, the
nights, and especially the early hom-s of the morning before sun-rise,
are so cold, that small quantities of water are covered with a thin
sheet of ice. For this purpose, either shallow pits are dug in earth
rich in saltpefre,f and small shallow dishes of burnt porous clay are
fllled with water, and placed in these pits, or when the soil does not
contain any saltpetre, the highest terraces on the houses are covered
with straw, and the little dishes of water are placed up there. The
thin crusts of ice thus obtained are broken into smaU pieces, a littie
water is poured over thera, and the whole is put into the ice-houses,
which are also lined with straw. This raode of obtaining ice is
already prafctised in Benares.
•Mundsch is the royal -tutor, -writer, or interpreter.
¦t It is yilcU. Imown that saltpetre prodnees a considerable reduction of temperature.

SIMAROLA — BURWAI — ROSTAMPOOE. 213
Mr. HaraUton was so obUging as to raake the arrangements for
the continuance of my journey. I could have had the royal camels
again, but preferred a car with oxen, as the loss of time was incon
siderable, and the trouble far less. Mr. HamUton himself made
the confract with the driver, pointed out the stations at which we
should stop between this and Auranjabad (230 miles), gave me an
excellent servant and sepoy, furnished rae with letters, and even
asked me if I had sufficient raoney. This exceUent man did all this
with so rauch araiabiUty, fhat, in fact, I scarcely knew whether the
kindnesses Or the way in which they were offered, were most to be
admfred. And not only in Indor, but everywhere else that he was
known, I lieai-d his name always mentioned with the most profound
respect. On the 23rd of February I left Indor on my way to the little
vUlage of Simarola. The road led through delightful groves of palm-
frees and richly cultivated land. In Simarola, I found a pretty and
comfortably furnished tent, which Mr. Hamilton had sent on, in order
to surprise me with a good night stetion. I sUently thanked bim most
heartily for his care.
24th February. Frora Simarola the country was truly pic
turesque. A narrow ledge of rock, in some places scarcely broad
enough for the road, led down a considerable decUvity* into small
vaUeys, on the sides of which beautiful raountains towered up. The
latter were thinly wooded ; araong the trees I was particularly struck
by two species, the one with yellow, the other with red flowers ; both
of them, very singularly, were quite destitute of leaves.
On this side of Kottah the camel trains were less frequent, in
consequence of the very stony state of the road; instead of these,
we met frains of oxen. We passed some to-day of incredible
extent. I do not exaggerate when I affirm that I have seen trains of
several thousand head of cattle, on whose backs, corn, wool, salt, &c.,
were conveyed. I cannot imagine where the food for so raany
aniraals is obtained ; there are nowhere any meadows, for, with the
exception of the plantations, the ground is scorched up, or at most
covered with thin, parched, jungle grass, which I never saw any
animal eat.
The industry of the women and children in the villages through
which these trains pass is great beyond measure ; they provide them
selves with baskets, and foUow the train for a considerable distance,
collecting the excrement of the oxen, which they work up into flat
bricks, and dry them in the sun to use as fuel. Late in the evening,
we entered the vUlage of Burwai, whioh lies on the river Nurbuda,
in the midst of a storra of thunder and lightning. I was told that
there was a pubUc bungalow here, but as the darkness of the night
prevented our finding it, I contented rayself -with the balcony of a
house. 25th February. We had this morning to cross the rivei- Nurbuda,
which, with the preparations for doing so, ocfcupied two hours.
26th February. Rostampoor. Between tms place and Simarola,
* Indor lies 2,000 feet above the level of the sea. 0 2

2M A woman's journey ROUND THE WOELD.
the land is rather barren, and also very thinly inhabited ; we often
traveUed several mUes without seeing a viUage.
27th Febmary. To-day we were gratifled with the prospect of
a fertile country and beautiful mountains. On an isolated mountain
was situated the famous old fortress of Assergur, from which arose
two half-decayed minarete. Towards evening we passed between
many ruins ; araongst which I observed another handsorae raosque,
the fore-court, the rainarete, and side walls of which were standing.
Adjoining this district of ruins, lay the very flourishing to-wn of Ber-
harapoor, which stUl numbers 60,000 inhabitante, but I was told that
it was formerly much larger.
An aumU resides in the town, and also an EngUsh officer, who
keeps an eye on his proceedings. We were obliged to pass through
the whole town, through the deep river Taptai, up and down hUl,
and over shocking roads, to reach the bxmgalow of the latter, so that
we did not arrive there till late at night. Captein Henessey and his
famUy were afready supping : they received me with true cordiality,
and, although wom out with fatigue, and much travel-stained, I took
my place at thefr hospitable table, and continued a conversation with
this amiable famUy until a late hour of the night.
28th February. Unfortunately I was obliged to proceed on my
joumey again this moming. Between Berhampoor and Ichapoor,
there were the raost beautiful and varied plantations — com, fiax,
cotton, sugar-cane, poppies, dahl, &c. The heat had already began
to be oppressive (towards 108° Fah.) I was at the same time
continuaUy on the road from 4 o'clock in the morning, tiU 5 or 6 in
the evening, and only seldom made a short halt on the banlss of
some river, or under a tree. It was altogether impossible to fravel
at night, as the heaths and jungles were frequently of great extent,
and moreover, somewhat infested with tigers, the presence of which
we experienced on the foUowing day ; besides all this, my people were
unacquainted -with the road.
29th February. To-day's stage was one of the most considerable;
we therefore started as early as 3 o'clock in the morning ; the road
passed through terrible wastes and wUd jungles. After we had pro
ceeded for some time quietly, the animals stopped short and remamed
as if fixed to the ground, and began to tremble ; their fear soon
communicated iteelf to my people, who shouted, without intermission,
the words "Bach! 6ocA.'" wMch means "Tiger! tiger!" I ordered
them to continue raaking as rauch noise as possible, in order to scare
away the animals if they really were near. I had some jimgle grass
fathered and made a fire, which I kept constantly blazing. However,
heard no howUng, and observed no other indication of our dreaded
neighbour than the terror of my people and cattle. Nevertheless,
I awaited the sunrise this time with great anxiety, when we eon
tinued our joumey. We afterwards learnt that scarcely a night
passes in this neighbourhood without an ox, horse, or goat, bemg
carried off by tigers. Only a few days previously, a poor woman who
was late in retuming from gathering jungle grass, had been torn
to pieces. All the vUlages were surrounded with high stone and
mudwaUs, whether from fear ofthe wild beaste, or from any other

the EOCK TEMTLES OF ADJUNTA. 215
cause, I could not leam with certainty. These fortifled viUages
extend as far as Auranjabad, over a distfuice of ISO mUes.
March 1st. Bodur is an unimportant village. Upon the road
from Indor to Auranjabad, there are no bungalows with rooms, and
it is very seldom that even an open one is to be found — that is, a
buUding with three wooden walls, over which a roof is thrown. We
found one of these bungalows in Bodur. It was indeed afready
taken possession of by about a dozen Indian soldiers, but they
witI^drew unasked, and gave up to rae half of the airy chamber.
During the whole night they reraained still and quiet, and were
not the sUghtest annoyance.
2nd March. Furdapoor, a smaU vUlage at the foot of beautiful
mountains. As the poor oxen began to be wearied with fra-velling,
the driver rubbed thera down every evening from head to foot.
Srd March. Adjunta. Before coming to this place we passed a
terrible rocky pass which might be easily defended. The road was
very narrow, and so bad that the poor animals could scarcely make
any way with the erapty cars. On the heights of the pass; a
sfrongly fortified gate was placed, which closed the narrow road;
it was, however, left open in tirae of peace. The low ground and
the heights on the sides were rendered inaccessible by sfrong and
lofty walls.
The view became more deUghtful at every step : romantic valleys
and ravines, picturesque masses and waUs of rock lay on both sides,
immeasurable vaUeys spread theraselves out behind the mountains,
whUe in front the view swept over an extensive open plain, at the
commencement of which lay the forfress of Adjunta. We had
afready reached it at about 8 o'clock in the morning. Captain GiU
resides in Adjunte, and I had letters of introduction to him from
Mr. HamUton. When I expressed a -wish, after the first greeting
was over, to visit the famous rock temples of Adjunta, he deeply
regretted that he had not received a letter from rae four-and-twenty
hours sooner, as the temples were nearer to Furdapoor than to Adjunta.
What was to be done? I was resolved upon seeing them, and
had but Uttle time to lose, so I decided upon refracing my way.
I only provided myself -with a smaU stock of provisions, and im
mediately mounted one of the horses from the captain's stable,
whioh brought me past the rocky pass in a good hour. The road
towards the temples here tums off to the right into desolate, barren
mountain vaUeys, whose death-like stiUness was unbroken by the
breathing of an animal, or the song of a bfrd. This place was
well calculated to raise and excite expectations.
The temples, twenty-seven in number, are excavated in tall per
pendicular cliffs, which form -a semicfrcle. In some of the cliffs
there are two stories of temples, one over the other ; paths lead to
-the top, but these are so narrow and broken, that one is frequently
at a loss where to set the foot. Beneath are terrible chasms, in
which a mountain stream loses itself; overhead, the smooth rocky
surface extends several hundred feet in height. The majority of
the temples are quadrangular in form, and the approach to the
interior is through verandahs and handsome gateways, which, from

SJ6 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE -WORLD.
being supported on columns, appear to bear the weight of the
whole mass of rock. These temples are caUed " Vihara." In the
larger one I counted twenty-eight, in the smaUest eight pUlars.
On one, and sometimes on both side-waUs, there is a very small
dark cell, in which most probably the priest lived. In the back
ground,' in a large and lofty ceU, is the sanctuaiy; Here are
gigantic figures in every position ; some measure more than eighteen
feet, and nearly reach to the roof of the temple, which is about
twenty-four 'feet high. The walls of the temples and verandahs are
full of idols and statues of good and evil spirits. In one of the
temples, a battle of giants is represented. The figures are above
Hfe size, and the whole of the figures, columns, verandahs, and
gateways, are cut out of the soHd rock. The enorraous number and
remarkable beauty of the sculptures and reUefs on the columns,
capitals, friezes, gateways, and even on the roof of the temples, is
indeed most astonishing ; the variety in the designs and de-vices is
inexhaustible. It appears incredible that human hands should have
been able to execute such masterly and gigantic works. The
Brahmins do, indeed, ascribe their origin to supernatural agencies,
and affirm that the era of thefr creation cannot be ascertained.
Remains of paintings are found on the walls, ceiUng, and pUlars,
the colours of which are brighter and fi-esher than those of many
modern works of art.
The second class of temples have an oval form, and have majestic
lofty portals leading immediately into the interior ; they are caUed
chaitya. The largest of these temples has on each side a colonnade
of nineteen piUars — the smallest, one of eight ; in these there are nn
verandahs, no priest's cells, and no sanctuaries. Instead of the latter,
a high monuraent stands at the extremity of the temple. Upon one
of these monuments an. upright figure of the deity Buddha is
seiUptured in a standing position. On the walls of the larger temple
gigantic figures are hewn out of the soUd rock, and under these a
sleeping Buddha, twenty-one feet in length.
After I had wandered about here for some hours, and had seen
enough of each of the temples, I was led back to one of them, and
saw there a small table well covered -with eatables and drinkables,
inviting me to a welcome raeal. Captain GiU had been so kind as to
send after me a choice tiffen, together -with table and chairs, into this
wilderness. Thus refreshed and invigorated, I did not find the return
fatiguing. The house in whieh Captain Gill Uves at Adjunta is very
remarkably situated: a pleasant Uttle garden, with flowers and
shrubs, surrounds the front, which commands a -view of a flne plain,
whUe the back stands upon the edge of a most fearful precipice, over
which the dizzy glance loses itself among steep crags and terrible
gorges and chasms.
As Captain GiU had learnt tiiat I wished to -visit the famous
fortress of Dowlutabad, he told me that no one was admitted -without
the pemussion of the coraraander of Auranjabad ; but, to spare my
going out of my way (as the fortress lies on this side of Auranjabad),
he offered to send a courier there immediately, and order him to bring
the card of admission to me at Elora. The courier had to travel alto-

ROJA— A TIGER-HUNT. 21J
getiier a distance of 140 miles — 70 there and as many back. I looked
upon all these attentions as the more obUging, as they were shown to
me — a German woman, without distinction or attractions — by English
people. 4th March. At 4 o'clock in the moming, the good captain joined
me at the breakfast table ; half an hour later, I was seated in my
waggon and travelling towards the viUage of Bongeloda, which I
reached the sarae day.
Sth March. Roja is one of the most ancient towns of India. It
has a gloomy aspect; the houses are one story high, and buUt of
large square stones, blackened by age ; the doors and windows are
few in number and irregularly situated.
Outside the town lay a handsome bungalow with two rooms ; but,
as I was informed that it was occupied by Europeans, I decided upon
not going there, and took up my quarters for the night under tho
eaves of a house.
The country between this and Adjunta is a flat plain ; the parched
heaths and poor jungles are interspersed with beautiful plantations.
The land near Pulraary was especially well ciUtivated.
6th March. Early in the raorning, .1 mounted a horse for the
purpose of visiting the equaUy-reno-wned rock temples of Elora (ten
mUes from Roja). But, as it frequently happens in life that the
proverb, "man proposes and God disposes," proves true, such was
the case in the present instance — ^instead of the temples, I saw a
tiger-hunt. I had scarcely left the gates of the town behind, when I perceived
a number of Europeans seated upon elephants, coraing from the
bungalow. On meeting each other, we pulled up, and commenced a
conversation. The gentlemen were on the road to search for a tiger-
lafr, of which they had received intimation, and invited, me, if such a
sport would not frighten me too much, to take part in it. I was
greatly delighted to receive the in-vitation, and was soon seated on
one of the elephants, in a howdah about two feet high, in whioh
there were afready two gentlemen and a native — the latter had been
brought to load the guns. They gave rae a large knife to defend
myself with, in case the animal should spring too high and reach the
side of the howdah.
Thus prepared, we approached the chain of hills, and, after a few
hours; were already pretty near the lafr of the tigers, when our
servants cried out quite softly, "Bach, bach!" and pointed with thefr
fingers to some brushwood. I had scarcely perceived the flaming eyes
which glared out of one of the bushes before shots were flred. Several
balls took effect on the animal, who rushed, maddened, upon us. He
made such fremendous springs, that I thought every moment he must
reach the howdah and select a victim from among us. The sight
was terrible to see, and my apprehensions were increased by the
appearance of another tiger ; however, I kept myself so calm, that
none of the gentlemen had any suspicion of what was going on in
my mind. Shot, followed shot ; the elephants defended their trunks
with great dexterity by throwing them up or dia-wing them in.
After a sharp contest of half an hour, we were the victors, and the

218 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND TBE WORLD.
dead animals were triumphantly stripped of their beautiful skins.
The gentlemen politely offered me one of them as a present; but I
decUned accepting it, as I could not postpone my journey sufficientiy
long for it to be dried. They compUmented me on my courage, and
added, that such sport would be extremely dangerous if the elephants
were not particularly well trained ; above all, they must not be afraid
of the tigers, nor even stfr frora the spot ; for, if they ran away, the
hunters would be upset by the branches of the trees, or be left
hanging upon them, when they would certainly become the victims of
the bloodthirsty animals. It was too late to -visit the temples to-day,
and I therefore waited till the next morning.
The temples of Elora Ue on that kind of table-land which is
peculiar to India. The principal temple, Kylas, is the most wonderful
of aU those which are hewn out of £he rock. It surpasses, in magni
tude and flnish, the best specimens of Indian architecture ; it is, indeed,
affirmed to have claims to precedence over the marvellous buUdings of
the ancient Egyptians. The Kylas is of conical form, 120 feet in
height and 600 in circumference. For the consfruction of this master-
work, a colossal block was separated from the soHd rock by a passage
240 feet long and 100 broad. The interior of the teraple consists of a
principal hall (66 feet long by 100 broad), and several adjoining
halls, which are all furnished with sculptures and gigantic idols; but
the real magnificence consiste in the rich and beautiful sculptures on
the exterior, in the tastefully-executed arabesques, and in the fine
pinnacles and niches, which are cut out on the tower. The teraple
rests on the backs of numerous elephante and tigers, whieh lie
next to each other in peaceful attitudes. Before the principal
entrance, to which several flights of steps lead, stand two flgures
of elephante above Ufe-size. The whole is, as has been said before,
hewn from a single mass of rock. The cliff from which this iraraense
block was separated surrounds the teraple, on three sides, at a
distance of 100 feet, forming colossal perpendicular walls, in which,
as at Adjunta, enorraous colonnades, larger and sraaller temples, from
two to three stoiies high, are excavated. The principal temple is
caUed Rameswm-, and somewhat exceeds in size the largest vichara
at Adjunta ; its breadth is ninety-eight feet, it extends into the rock
102 feet, and the height of the ceilmg is twenty-four feet ; it is sup
ported by twenty-two pilasters, and covered with the most beautiful
sculptures, reliefs, and colossal gods, araong which the principal group
represente the raarriage of the god Rara and the goddess Seeta. A
second vichara, nearly as handsorae as this last, is caUed Laokaj the
principal figure iu this is Shiva.
Not far distent, a nun?her of simUar temples are excavated in
another rock. They are much more simple, with unattractive portals
and plain columns ; therefore, not to be compared with those at
Adjunta. This task would have been impossible if the rock had been
granite or a simUar primitive foundation ; unfortunately, I could not
ascertain what the rock was, I only examined the pieces which were
here and there chipped off, and which were very easUy broken.
It is not with the less astonishment that one contemplates these

THE FORTRESS OF DOWLUTABAD. 219
surprising works, which will always be considered as inimitable
monuments of human ingenuity.
The temple of Kylas is, unfortunately, somewhat decayed from
age and the desfructive action of the weather. It is a sad pity that
the only monument of this kind in the world will, by-and-bye, fall
into rums. Towards 11 o'clock in the morning I returned to Roja,
and immediately continued my joumey to the famous fortress Dow
lutabad, having safely received the admission in Roja.
The distance was only eight miles ; but the roads were execrably
bad, and there was a mountain-pass to cross similar to that near
Adjunta. The fortress, one of the oldest and strongest in India, is
considered as the most reraarkable of its kind, not only in the
Deccan but in all India. It presents a. most imposing aspect, and is
situated upon a peak of rock 600 feet high, which stands isolated in
a beautiful plain, and appears to have been separated from the
adjoining mountains by sorae violent natural con-vidsion. The circura
ference of this rock amounts to about a mile. It is cut round perpen
dicularly to a height of 130 feet and thirty feet below the top of the
moat by which it is surrounded, which cutting is equally perpen
dicular, so that the whole height of the escarpment is 160 feet, and
the rock, consequently, inaccessible. There is no pathway leading to
the fortress, and I was, therefore, extremely curious to know by what
means the suramit was reached. In the side of the rock itseU' was a
very low iron door, whieh is only visible in time of peace, as the
diteh can be fiUed a foot above its level when required. Torches were
Hghted, and I was carefully conducted through narrow low passages,
which led with numerous windings upwards through the body of the
rock. These passages were closed in many places by massive fron
gates. Sorae considerable distance above the precipitous part of the
rock, we again eraerged into the open afr ; narrow paths and steps,
protected by strongly-fortified works, led from this place to tiie
highest point. The latter was somewhat flattened, (140 feet in
diameter), corapletely undermined, and so contrived, that it could be
heated red-hot. A cannon, twenty-three feet long, was planted here.
At the foot of this fortress are scattered numerous ruins, which, I
was told, were the remains of a very iraportant town ; nothing is left
of it now except the fortified walls, tluree or four feet deep, which
must be passed to reach the peak of rock itself.
In the same plain, but near to the range of mountains, standing
on a separate elevation, is a considerably larger fortress than Dowlu
tabad, but of far inferior strength.
The numerous fortresses, as well as the fortified towns, were, as I
here learned, the remnants of past times, when Hindostan was divided
into a great number of states, continually at war with each other.
The inhabitants of the towns and vUlages never went out unarmed ;
they had spies continuaUy on the watch ; and to secure themselves
from sudden attacks, drove thefr herds inside the waUs every night,
and lived in a continual state of siege. In consequence of the im-
ceasing warfare which prevailed, bands of mounted robbers were
formed, frequently consisting of as many as ten or twelve thousand

230 A woman's journey ROUND THE WOELD. ,
men, who too often starved out and overcame the inhabitants of the
smaller towns, and completely destroyed thefr young crops. These
people were then compeUed to enter into a contract with these wUd
hordes, and to buy themselves off by a yearly tribute.
Since the EngHsh have conquered India, peace and order have
been everywhere estabUshed ; the waUs decay and are not repafred ;
the people indeed frequentiy wear arms, but more from habit than
necessity. The distance from Dowlutabad to Auranjabad was eight mUes. I
was afready much fatigued, for I had -visited the temples, ridden eight
mUes over the mountain pass, and mounted to the top of the fortress
during the greatest heat; but I looked forward to the night, which I
preferred passing in a house and a comfortable bed, rather than under
an open verandah ; and, seating rayself in my waggon, desired the
driver to quicken the pace of his weary oxen as much as possible.

CHAPTER XVI.
CONTINUATION OP JOUENEY AND SOJOUEN.
AimANJABAD — ^Puna — East Inbian Mareiaoes — The Foolish Waoconer — Bombay —
The Parsees, oa Fire-Worshippers — Indian Burial Ceremonies — The Island op
Elephanta — The Island op Salsette.
On the 7th of March, late in the evening, I reached Auranjabad.
Captain Stewart, who lived outside the town, received me wifli the
same cordiaUty as the other residents had done.
Sth March. Captain Stewart and his wife accompanied me this
moming to the town to show me ite objects of interest, which con
sisted of a monument and a sacred pool. Auranjabad is the capital
of the Deccan, has 60,000 inhabitants, and is partly in ruins.
The monument, which is immediately outside the town, was built
more than two hundred years since by the Sultan Aurung-zeb-Alera-
gfr, in memory of his daughter. It by no raeans deserves to be com
pared to the great Tadsch at Agra. It is a raosque, -with a lofty
arched dome and four minarets. The buUding is covered aU round —
the lower part of the outside with a coating of white raarble five feet
high; the upper portion is cased with fine white cement, which is
worked over -with omamental fiowers and arabesques. The entrance
doors are beautifully inlaid -with metal, on which flowers and oma
mental designs are engraved in a highly artistic manner. Unfortu
nately, the monument is afready much decayed; one of the minarets
is half faUen in ruins. In the mosque stands a plain sarcophagus,
surrounded by a marble teeUis-work. Both have nothing in common
¦with the great Tadsch beyond the white marble of which they are
constructed; in richness and artistic execution, they are so much
inferior, that I could not understand how any one could be led to
make so incredible a comparison.
Near the mosque Ues a pretty marble haU, surrounded by a ne
glected garden.
The reigning king would have reraoved the marble from this
monument for use in some building in which he was to be interred !
He requested permission to do so from the English government. The
answer was to the effect, that he could do so if he wished, but he
should remeraber, that if he had so little respect for the monuments of
his predecessors, his o-wn might experience a similar fate. This
answer induced him to reUnquish his intentions.
The pool considered sacred by the Mahomedans is a large basin,
constructed of square stones. It is full of large pikes, none of which.
however, are aUowed to be taken; in fact, there is an attendant
appointed to supply them with food. The flsh are consequently so
tame and famUiar, that they wUl eat turnips, bread, &c., out of the

228 X woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
hand. The rainy season causes the death of many of them : were
it not for this fortunate circumstance, the pool would before long
contain more flsh than water. Since the English have come here,
the attendants are said not to be so conscientious, and very often
smuggle flsh out of the pool into the EngHsh kitchens, for the sake of
a Uttle ready money.
After spending a very agreeable day, I took a hearty farewell of
my friendly hostess, and continued my journey in a fresh waggon
towards Puna, 136 mUes distant.
9th March. Toka. The roads here began to be better, and there
were bungalows to be had on payraent of the ordinary fees.
10th March. Emanpoor, a smaU -village situated on the summit
of a chain of hUls. I found here the handsomest bungalow I had seen
during the whole journey from Benares to Borabay.
llth March. We passed the whole day in fraveUing through a
barren country, over naked hUls and raountains : the raajestio solitary
trees -with the wells had already ceased at Auranjabad.
Towards noon we passed the very flourishing town of "Ahmed-
nugger, in the neighbourhood of which a large English military
station is estabUshed.
12th March. 'The bungalow at Serur was too near, that at Can-
dapoor too distant. I therefore decided upon taking up my quarters
for the night under the eaves of a house.
13th March. In Candapoor there are sorae handsorae Hindoo
teraples and several sraall Mahomedan monuments. Near Lony is
a large English miUtary station. I also found an obelisk erected
there in meraory of a battle won by 1,200 EngHsh against 20,000
natives. 14th March. Puna. I had endless trouble here to flnd Mr.
Brown, to whom I had an introduction frora Mr. HaraUton. The
Europeans reside in all parts of the town, for the raost part mUes
apart, and I had the misfortune to meet with some who were not the
most polite, and did not consider it worth taking the trouble to give
me information. Mr. Brown, on the contrary, received me as kindly
as I could desfre.
His first inquiry was whether any accident had happened to me
on the road. He told me that, only a short time since, an officer was
robbed between Suppa and Puna, and as he attempted to defend
himself, was murdered ; but he added that such instances were extra
ordinarily rare.
I had arrived about noon. After dinner, Mr. Brown conducted
me to the town, which belongs to the East India Company. It con
tains 15,000 inhabitants, and is situated at the junction of the rivers
Mulla and Mutta, over both of which handsome bridges are thro-wn.
The streets are broad and kept clean ; the houses, Uke those in Udjein,
are furnished with false wooden walls. Some were painted all over,
and belonged mostly, as I was informed, to fakfrs, with whom the
town swarmed.
It was the month in which the Hindoos prefer to celebrate their
marriages, and we met in several streets merry processions of that
kind. The bridegroom is enveloped in a purple mantle, his turban

PUNA— CUMPUILY— KUNDALLA. 883
dressed out with gold tinsel, tresses, ribbons, and tassels, so that from
a distance it appears like a rich crown. The depending ribbons and
tassels nearly cover the whole face. He is seated upon a horse;
relatives, friends, and guests sun-ound him on foot. When he reaches
the house ofthe bride, the doors and windows of which are securely
closed, he seate himself quietly and patiently on the threshold. The
female relations and friends also gather together here, without con
versing much -with the bridegroom and the other men. This scene
continues unchanged until mghtfall. The bridegroom then departe
with his friends ; a closely covered waggon, which has been held in
readiness, is drawn up to the door ; the females sUp into the house,
bring out the thickly-veiled bride, push her into the waggon, and
follow her with the melodious music of the tam-tam. The bride does
not start untU the bridegroom has been gone a quarter of an hour.
The women then accompany her into the bridegroom's house, which,
however, they leave soon afterwards. 'The music is kept up in front
of the house untU late in the night. It is only the marriages of the
lower classes that are celebrated in this manner.
There is a road leading from Puna to PannweU, a distance of
seventy raUes, and fraveUers can post all the way. Frora PannweU
to Bombay the joumey is made by water. I adhered to the cheaper
baiU, and Mr. Bro-wn was so obUging as to procure one for me, and
to lend me a servant.
On the 15th of March I again set out, and on the same day ar
rived at Woodgo-wn, a -viUage with one of the dfrtiest bungalows in
which I ever made up my bed.
16th March. CumpuUy. 'The country between this place and
Woodgown is the most beautiful that I saw in India ; the view from
a mountain some raUes on this side of Kundalla, was particularly
striking. The spectator stands here in the midst of an extensive
mountainous district : peaks of the most diversified forms are pUed in
numerous rows above and alongside of each other, presenfa'ng the most
beautiful and variegated outUnes.
There are, also, enormous terraces of rock, flattened cones of peaks,
with battlemente and pinnacles, whieh at flrst sight might be taken for
ruins and fortresses. In one place the lofty roof of a majestic buUding
presente itself— in another, a gigantic Gothic tower rises aloft. The
volcanic form of the Tumel mountein is the most uncommon object
which meete the eye. Beyond the mountains extends a wide plain,
at the extremity of which lies the polished surface of the long wished-
for ocean. The j;reater part of the mountains is covered with beautiful
green -n'oods. I was so much deUghted with the extreme beauty of
the prospect, that I congratulated myself for the first time on the slow
pace of my sleepy oxen.
The yiUage of Karly lies between Woodgown and Kundalla ; it
is famous on account of its temples, which are about two mUes distanti
I did not -visit them, because 1 was assured that they were not half
so interesting as those at Adjunta and Elora.
Kundalla Hes upon a mountain plateau. There are several pretty
counfry-houses here, to which many European famiUes, from the
neighbourhood of Bombay, resort during the hot weather.

a34 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WORLD.
In the Deccan, and the province of Bombay, I found the natives
were less handsorae than in Bengal and Hindostan ; thefr featm-es
were much coarser, and not so open and amiable.
For several days we have again raet very large trains of oxen;
sorae of the drivers of which had thefr famiUes with them. The
females of these people were very ragged and dirty, and at the same
time loaded with finery. The whole body was covered with coloured
woollen borderings and fringes, the arms with bracelets of metal,
bone,' and glass beads ; even to the ears large woollen tassels were
hung, in addition to the usual ornamente, and the feet were loaded
with hea-vy rings and chains. Thus bedecked, the beauties sat on
the backs of the oxen, or walked by the side of the aniraals.
17th March. Since the attack of the negroes in Brazil, I had not
been in such a fright as I was to-day. My driver had appeared to me,
during the whole joumey, somewhat odd in his manner, or rather
foolish : sometimes abusing his oxen, sometimes caressing them,
shouting to the passers-by, or turning round and staring at me for
sorae nUnutes together. However, as I had a servant with me who
always walked by the baili, I paid little attention to him. But this
morning my servant had gone on, without' my consent, to the next
station, and I found myself alone with this foolish driver, and on a
rather secluded road. After some time he got down frora the waggon,
and went close behind it. The bailis are only covered over at the
sides with straw matting, and ai-e open at the front and back ; I
could therefore observe what hewas doing, but I would, not turn
round, as I did not wish to make him think that I suspected him. I,
however, raoved my head gradually on one side to enable me to
watch his proceedings. He soon came in front again, and, to my
terror, took from the waggon the hatchet which every driver carries
with him, and again retfred behind. I now thought nothing less
than that he had evU intentions, but I could not fly from him, and
dare notj of course, evince any fear. I very gently and unobserved
drew my mantle towards rae, rolled it together, so that I raight, at
least, protect ray head with it, in case he made a blow at me with the
hatchet. He kept me for some time in this painful state of suspense, then
seated himself on his place and stared at me, got down again, and
repeated the same proceedings several times. It was not until after
a long hour that he laid the hatchet on one side, remained sitting on
the waggon, and contented himself with gaping vacantly at me every
now and then. At the end of a second hour we reaohed the
station where my servant was, and I did not allow him to leave my
side again.
The villages through which we passed to-day were of the most
wretehed description ; the walls of the huts were constructed of
rushes, or reeds, covered with palm leaves ; some had no front wall.
These villages are chiefly inhabited by Mahrattas, a race which
were, at one period, rather powerful in India, and indeed in the
whole peninsula. They were, however, expelled from Hindostan by the
Mongols, in the eighteenth, century, and fled into the mountains
which extend from Surata to Goa. During the present century, the

BOMBAY. 885
majority of these people were compelled to place themselves under
the protection of the EngUsh. The only .Mahratta prince who stUl
maintains, in any degree, his independence, is the Scindiah; the
others receive pensions.
The Mahrattas are adherent to the reUgion of Brahma. They
are powerfuUy built ; the colour of their skin varies frora dirty black
to clear brown ; thefr features are repulsive and iU-formed. They *
are inured to all raanner of hardships, live chiefly upon rice and
water, and thefr disposition is represented as being raorose, revengeful,
and savage. They excite theraselves to fighting by raeans of opium,
or Indian herap, which they smoke like tobacco.
In the afternoon, I reached the Uttle town of PannweU. Travel
lers embark, towards the evening, in boate, and proceed down the
river PannweU to the sea, reaching Borabay about-moming.
I had safely completed the long and tedious journey from Delhi to
PannweU in seven weeks. For having accompUshed it I was
especiaUy indebted to the English officials, who afforded rae both
advice and assistence ; their huraanity, thefr cordial friendliness
I shaU ever remember. I again offer them ray raost sincere and
warmest thanks ; and the greatest comphment which I can pay thera
is the -wish that ray own countrymen, the Austrian consuls and
ambassadors, resembled them !
At Bombay I staid at the country-house of the Hamburgh consul,
Herr Wattenbach, intending only to draw upon his hospitality for a
few days, and to leave as soon as possible, in order to take advantage
ofthe monsoon* in my passage through the Arabian and Persian
seas. Days, however, grew into weeks, for the favourable time was
afready past, and the opportunity of meeting with ship conveyance
was there very rare.
Herr Wattenbach made ray stay in Bombay very agreeable ; he
showed me everything worth seeing, and accompanied me in excur
sions to Elephanta and Salsette.
Bombay lies on a small but remarkably pretty island, which
is separated from the raain land by a very narrow arm' of the sea ; its
extent is about flve square miles, and it is inhabited by 250,000 souls.
Bombay is the principal town of Westem India, and as its harbour is
the best and safest on the whole west coast, it is the chief seat
of commerce for the produce and manufactures of India, the Malay
country, Persia, Arabia, and Abyssinia. In a commercial respect, it
stands only second to Calcutta. In Bombay, every language of the
civUized world is to be heard, and the costumes and habite of every
nation are to be seen. The finest view of the whole island and town
of Bombay, aswell as the neighbouring islands of Salsette, Elephanta,
Kolabeh, Caranjah, and the mainland, is to be had from the
Malabar point. The country, at sorae distance feom the town, con
sists chiefly of low hUls, whieh are covered with beautiful woods of
cocoa-nut and date-trees ; in the plain surrounding the town there
are also many such groves divided into gardens by walls. The
natives are very fond of buUding thefr dwellings under the dark
* Monsoons are the periodical winds which hlow during one-half the yoar from east to
WSt, during the other half from west to east.

«23 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
shadows of these trees ; whUe, on the contrary, the Europeans seek
for as much light and afr as possible. The country-houses of the
latter are handsome and convenient, but not to be compared with
those of Calcutta, either in size or magnificence. The town Ues on a
level, along the sea-shore.
'The active life of the rich inland and European commercial popu
lation must be sought for in the fortified parts of the town, wluch
constitute a large quadrangle. Here is to be found merchandize from
all parts of the world. The streete are handsome, the large square
called The Green especially so. The buildings most reraarkable for
their architectural beauty are the Town-hall, whose saloon has no
equal, the English Church, the Govemor's Palace, and the Mint.
The Open Town and the Black To-wn* ad.] oin the fortified portions,
and are considerably larger. In the Open Town, the streets are very
regular and broad, raore so than any other Indian city that I saw ;
they are also carefuUy watered. I observed many houses decorated
•with artistically-carved wooden pUlars, capitals, and galleries. The
bazaar is an object of great interest ; not, as many travellers affirm,
on account of the richness of the merchandize, of which there is not
more to be seen than in other bazaars — in fact, there is not even any
of the beautiful wood mosaic work of which Bombay produces the
flnest— but from the diversity of people, which is greater here than
anywhere else. Three parts, indeed, are Hindoos, and the fourth
Mahomedans, Persians, Ffre-worshippers, Mahrattas, Jews, Arabs,
Bedouins, Negroes, descendants of Portuguese, several hundred Euro
peans, and even some Chinese and Hottentots. It requires a long
time to be able to distinguish the people of the different nations by
thefr dress and the formation of their faces.
The most wealthy among people owning property here are the
Fire-worshippers, called also Gebers, or Parsees. They were expeUed
from Persia about 1,200 years since, and settled down along the west
coast of India. As they are remarkably industrious and hard-working,
very weU disposed and benevolent, there are no poor, no beggars to
be found among them — all appear to be prosperous. The handsome
houses in which the Europeans reside mostly belong to them ; they
are the largest owners of land, ride out in the most beautiful carriages,
and are surrounded by innumerable servants. One of the richest of
them — Jamsetize-Jeejeebhoy — built, at his own expense, a handsome
hospital in the Gothic style, and pro-vides European medical men and
receives the sick of every reHgious denomination. He was knighted
by the English government, and is certainly the first Hindoo who
could congratulate himself on such a distinction.
WhUe speaking of the Ffre-worshippers, I wiU relate aU that I
myself saw of them, as weU as what I learnt from Manuckjee-
Cursetjee, one of the most cultivated and distinguished among them.
The Fire- worshippers beUeve in one S npreme Being. They pay the
greatest reverence to the four elements, and especiaUy to the element of
fire, and to the sun, because they look upon them as emblems of the
Supreme Being. Every morning they watch for the rising sun, and
• The Black Town is that part of the town in which the poorer classes of- inhahitants
reside. That neithCT beauty nor cleanliness are to he sought there, is a matter of course.

PAESEE BURIAL CEREMONIES. 287
hasten ont of thefr houses, and even outside of the town, to greet it
immediately with prayers. Besides the elements, the cow is con
sidered sacred by tiiem.
Soon after my arrival, I went one moming upon the esplanade
of the town for the purpose of seeing the great number of Parsees *
who, as I had read, assembled themselves there waiting for the first
rays of the sun, on the appearance of which, as if at a given signal,
they throw themselves on the ground, and raise a loud cry of joy.
I, however, merely saw several Parsees, not in groups, but standing
separately here and there, reading sUentiy from a book, or murmuring
a prayer to themselves. These did not even come at the same time,
for many arrived as late as 9 o'clock.
It was precisely the same with the corpses which are stated to
be exposed upon the roofs for the birds of prey to feed upon. I
saw not a single one. In Calcutta, Mr. V  , who had but recently
come from Bombay, assured me that he had himself seen many.
I cannot beUeve that the EngHsh govemraent would permit such a
barbarous proceeding, and one so prejudicial to health. But I must
resume my narrative. My first question, after I had been introduced
to Manucqee, was as to the manner in which the Parsees bury thefr
dead. He conducted me to a hill outeide the town, and pointed
out a wall, four-and-twenty feet high, enclosing a round space of
about sixty feet in diameter. He told me that within this waU
there was a bier, with three partitions, buUt up, and near to it a
large pit excavated. The bodies of the deceased are placed upon
the bier, the raen on the first, the woraen on the second, and
chUdren on the thfrd corapartment, and are fastened down with
fron bands ; and, according to the commands of thefr reHgion, are left
exposed to the action of the element of air. The birds of prey, which
always gather in large swarms round such places, fall upon the
bodies ravenously, and in a few minutes devour the fiesh and skin;
the bones are gathered up and thrown into the cave. When this
becomes full, the place is abandoned and another erected.
Many wealthy people have private burial-places, over which
they have fine -wfre gauze stretched, so that the deceased members
of mefr family may not be stripped of thefr flesh by bfrds of prey.
No one is aUowed to enter the burial-ground except the prieste,
who carry the bodies; even the door is.rapidly closed, for only one
glance into it would be a sin. The prieste, or rather bearers, are
considered so impure that they are excluded from aU other society,
and form a separate caste. Whoever has the misfortune to brush
agauist one of these men, must instantly throw off his clothes and
bathe. The Parsees are not less exclusive with respect to their temples;
no one of any other belief is allowed to enter (hem, or even to look
in. The temples which I saw here, of course only from the outeide,
are yery small, extremely plain, and destitute of the slightest pecu
Uarity of architecture ; the round entrance-haU surrounds a kind of
fore-court, enclosed by a wall. I was only aUowed to go as far as
• There are in all only 6,000 Parsees in the island of Bomhay.

288 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD,
the entrance of the waU leading to the fore-court. The handsomest
temple in Bombay* is a smaU unimportant building, and I must again
cpnfradict those descriptions which raake so much of the beautiful
temples of the Fire-worshippers.
As I was informed by Manuckjee, the fire burns in a kind of fron
vase, in a completely empty, unomamented temple or apartment.
The Parsees affirm that the fire which burns in the principal temple,
and at which aU the others are Hghted, originates frora the flre
which thefr prophet, Zoroaster, lighted in Persia 4,000 years since.
When they were driven out of Persia they took it with them. This
fire is not fed -with ordinary wood alone, more costly kinds, such as
sandal, rose-wood, and such Uke, are mixed with it.
The priests are called magi, and in each temple there is a con
siderable number of them. They are distinguished, as regards thefr
dress, frora the other Parsees, only by a white turban. They are
aUowed to raarry.
The woraen visit the temple generaUy at different hours from
the raen. They are not forbidden to go there at the same time
as the latter; but they never, do so, and, indeed, very seldom
go at all. A pious Parsee is supposed to pray daily fom- times, and
each time for an hour ; for this purpose, however, it is not necessary
that he should go to the temple ; he fixes his eyes upon fire, earth,
or water, or stares into the open afr. Whoever finds four hours of
prayer daUy too much, ingratiates himself with the priests, who are
humane and considerate, like the priests of other religions, and
wUlingly release applicants from their cares for the consideration of
a moderate gift.
The Parsees prefer offering up thefr prayers in the moming in
the presence of the sun, which they honour the most, as the greatest
and most sacred tfre. The worship of fire is carried to such an
extent by thera that they do not pursue any frades which require the
use of fire, neither will they fire a gun, or extinguish a light. They
let their kitchen-fires burn out. Many traveUers even affirm that
they wUl not assist in extinguishing a conflagration ; but this is not
the case. I was assured that on such an occasion, some years since,
many Parsees had been seen giving thefr help to put the fire out.
Manuckjee was so obliging as to invite me to his house, that I
might become acquainted id' some degree with the mode of life of
Parsee famUies ; he also conducted me to the houses of several of his
fiiends. I found the rooms furnished in the European manner, with chairs,
tables, sofas, ottomans, pictures, mirrors, &c. The dress of the
women was Uttle different from that of the more wealthy Hindoos;
it was more decorous, as it was not made of transparent muslin, but
of sUk ; and they had, moreover, frousers. The silk was richly
embroidered with gold, which luxury is extended to three-year old
children. The younger ones, and even the newly-born infants, are
wrapped in plain sUk stuff. The children wore Httie caps, worked
with gold and silver. The Parsee women consider gold ornamentSi,
• And yet Bombay is the principal seat ot the Fire-worshippers.

THE P.4ESEES, OR FIRE-WOESHIPPEES. 8S»
pearl, and precious stones as necessaiy a part of their dress as the
Hhidoos ; even in the house they wear a great quantity, but when
-visiting, or on the occasion of any festival, the jeweUery of a wealthy
Parsee woman is said to exceed in value 100,000 rupees (£10,000).
ChUdren of only seven or eight raonths old, wear finger-rings and
bracelets of precious stones or pearls.
The dress of the men consists of wide frousers and long kaftans.
The shfrts and frousers are chiefly made of white silk, the jacket of
wlfite muslin. The tm-ban differs greatiy from that of the Ma
homedans; it is a cap of pasteboard, covered with colom-ed stuff or
waxed cloth, ten or twelve inches high.
Both men and woraen wear round thefr waists, over the shfrt, a
gfrdle passing twice round, which they take off during prayers and
hold in thefr hands ; -with this exception, they are never seen without
it. The law is so strict -vrith regard to the point, that whoever does not
wear the gfrdle is driven out of society. No agreement or confract
is vaUd if the gfrdle is not wom when it is made. The chUdren
begin to wear it when they reach thefr ninth year. Before this
ceremony, they do not belong to the community; they may even eat of
food prepared by Christians, and the gfrls can accompany thefr fathers
in a pubUc place. The gfrdle changes aU; the son eats at his father's
teble, the gfrls remain at home, &c.
A second reUgious ordinance relates to the shfrt ; this must be cut
ofa certain lengtii and breadth, and consist of nine seams, which are
folded over each other on the breast in a pecuUar manner.
A Parsee is aUowed to have only one wife. If the wife has no
chUdren, or only gfrls, during a period of nine years, he can, if she
consente, be divorced from her, and marry another ; he must, however,
StiU provide for her. She can also marry again. Accoij^g to the
reUgious beUef of the Parsee, he is certain to enioy perfect happiness
in a future state of existence if he has a wife aii a son Ui^this life.
The Parsees are not divided into castes. In the course of time
the Parsees have acqufred many of the customs of the Hindoos.
For example, the women are not allowed to show themselves in pubUc
places; in the house they are separate^ from the men, take thefr
meals alone, and are, upon the wj^^jjqnsidered more as mere
property. 'The gfrls are promised j^^^^Sdren^^nd befrothed to
the man when in thefr fourteenth y^HB^VBfeftjriAft bridegroom
dies, the parente can seek for an^Kr. m^^Dg^ered by the
Parsees to be a disgrace if the father ^Vnot finSRiusband for his
daughter. _^» ^^
The Parsee women, however, enjoj far more needom in thefr
houses than the unfortunate Hindoos : they are allowed to sit even at
the front windows, and soraetiraes be present when thefr- husbands
receive visite from their male fiiends, and on both occasions without
being veUed.
11,0 Parsees maybe easUy distinguished from aU other Asiatic people
by thefr features, and especiaUy by the lighter colour of thefr skin.
Thefr features are rather regrdar, but somewhat sharp, andthe cheek
bones are broad. I did not think them ao handsome as the Maha-
medans and Hindoos.

330 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
Manuckjee is a great exception to his country people. He is,
perhaps, the first who has visited Paris, London, and a considerable
part of Italy. He was so well pleased -vjith European manners and
customs, that on his return he endeavoured to infroduce several
reforms among the people of his sect. Unfortunately, he was unsuc
cessful. He was decried as a man who did not know what he would
be doing, and raany withdrew from him thefr friendship and respect
in consequence. He allows his fainily to go about the house with freedom ; but
even there he cannot depart rauch from estabUshed custom, as he
does not wish to separate entirely from his sect. His daughters are
educated in the European method ; the eldest plays a little on the
piano, embroiders, and sews. She wrote a small paragraph in English
in my album very weU. Her father did not engage her as a chUd,
but. wished that her own incUnations might correspond with his
selection of a husband. I was told that she would probably not meet
with one, because she is educated too much in the European style ;
she is already fourteen years of age, and her father has not yet
provided her with a bridegroom.
When I first visited this house, the mother and daughters were
seated in a drawing-room, engaged with heedlework. I remained
during thefr meal-time, a Uberty which an orthodox Parsee would
not have afforded to me ; I was not, however, allowed to join
thera at teble. It was first laid for me, and I ate alone. Several
dishes were placed before me, which, with sUght deviations, were
prepared in the European raanner. Every one, with the exception of
the master of the house, watched with sm-prise the way in which I
used a knife and fork ; even the servants stared at this, to them,
singular, sn^tacle. ^hen I had sufficiently appeased my appetite in
this puhli^^nnerj,,tiie table was as carefully brushed as if I had been
infeetea^^B^he'jipmgue. Flat cakes of bread were then brought
and laid up^TOie uMjvered table, instead of plates, and six or seven
of the same dishes -vvbieh had been served to me. The members of
the famUy each washed thefr hands and faces, and the father said a
short grace. AU except thejoungest child, who was only six years
of age, sat at the table, and^mched with their right hands into the
different dishes." 'TheiloMB^feflesh from the bones, separated the
fish into piej^^|Li|^|HHfl|^^Rhe pieces into the various soups and
sauces, andt^BB^^nB^^^^ dexterity into the mouth, that they
did not touch fl^Pjif s -w^Whefr fingers. Whoever accidentaUy
does, must imme"cHft;ely get^B*and wash his hand again, or else place
hefore him the (Hsh into whKii he has put his unwashed hand, and
not touch any other one. Tne left hand is not used during the whole
meal time.
This mode of eating appears, indeed, very unin-viting; but it is, in
fact, not at aU so; the hand is washed, and does not touch anything
but the food. It is the same in drinking ; the vessel is not put to the
Ups, but the liquid is very cleverly poured into the open mouth.
Before the children have acquired this dexterity in eating and
drinking, they are not permitted, even when they wear the girdle, to
come to the table of the adults.

INDIAN BUEIAL CEEEMONIES.

231

J a vessel with
M igniting the

The most common drink in Bombay is called sud or toddy, a kind
of Ught spfrituous beverage which is made from the cocoa and date-
palm. The taxes upork these trees are very high ; the latter are, as
in Egypt, numbered and separately assessed. A tree which is only
cultivated for fruit, pays from a quarter to half a rupee (6d. to Is.) ;
those from which toddy is exfracted, from three-quarters to one rupee
each. The people here do not climb the palm-trees by means of rope-
ladders, but they cut notches in the tree, in which they set their feet.
During my stay here, an old Hindoo woman died near to Herr
Wattenbach's house, which circumstance gave me an opportunity of
witnessing an Indian funeral. As soon as she began to show sigpg
of death, the women about her every now and then set up a hori-yjis
howling, which they continued at short intervals after her dejease J
Presently, small processions of six or eight woraen approached, vydvl
also coraraenced howling as soon as they discovered the housMJ^Ae
mourners. These women all entered the house. The men,,^^|^i
there were a great number present, seated themselves qutfliy in front
of it. At the expfration of some hours,*the dead body jflSs enveloped
in a white shroud, laid upon an open bier, and carriedAy the men to
the place where it was to be burnt. One of them ca
charcoal and a piece of lighted wood, for the purn
wood with the fire of the house. _,^
The women remained behind, and coUeote^KKont of the house
in a smaU efrcle, in the middle of whieh was spaced a woraan who
was hfred to assist in the laraentations. She commenced a wailing
song of several stanzas, at the end of each of which the whole joined
in chorus ; they kept time also by beating thefr breasts with the
right hand and bo-wing thefr heads to the gn "
tms movement as quickly and regularly as
worked by a -wfre.
After this had been carried on for a quarte
a short pause, during which the women stru
thefr fists so violently, that the blows couldj
able distance. After each blow, ti
and bowed thefr heads very loy
dity. This proceeding seeraed (
much exertion, they seated tl)
and sraoked tobacco.
On the following raorjiH^^Kn men ana women repeatea tneir
-visit. The former, howevt^flj^Bnttnter the house d^ffiSJ^ a fire
and prepared a plain meal, .^^^^k a party of w^Hrcame, one
of the men went to the house-doo^^^BMwnnBad^^^^upon which
the principal mourner came out of^^^|HH|^^ve thera. She
threw herself with such violence on thBtHB^^Defore them, that I
thought she would not be able to rise up E^ain ; the women struck
themselves with thefr fists once oH^efr breasts, and then drew thefr
hands to their heads. The wii^^^aised herself in the meantime,
threw herself impetuously rounRhe necks of each of the women,
throwing, at the same time, her head-dress over the head of her
consoler, and both endeavoured to out-do each other in howUng. All
these evolutions were very rapidly performed ; a dozen embraces were

833 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
gone through in a moment. After the reception, they went into the
house and continued howUng at intervals. It was not untU sun-set
that aU was stiU, and a supper concluded the whole affafr. The women
ate in the house — ^the men in the open afr.
Funerals and marriages always cost the Hindoos a great deal.
The one here described was that of a woman of the poorer class.
Nevertheless, it is considered essential that there should be no want
of toddy during two days, or of provisions for meals, at which there
are an abundance of guests. In addition to this, there is the wood,
. which also costs a considerable sum, even when it is only common
The rich, who use on such occasions the most costly wood,
itly pay more than a thousand rupees (£100).
tonce met the f)meral procession of a Hindoo chUd. It lay upon
a, covered with a white sheet, and was sfrewed with fresh
tiful fiowers. A raan carried it on both his arras as gentiy
as if it was sleeping. In this instance, also, there were
fesent.
 DOS have no particular festival-day in the week, but
festivals a^A|ain times, whieh last for sorae days. I was present
at one of !HH|during ray stay, Warusehe-Parupu, the New- Year's
festival, whil^^^k place on the llth of AprU. It was a kind of
fast-night cele!^^H. The principal arauseraent consisted in throwing
yeUow, brown,l^^|ed colours over each other, and painting thera-
^Tjon their cheeks and foreheads. The noisy tam-
nolins, headed the procession, and greater or less
ing and singing, danced from house to house, or
Several, indeed, on this occasion, found
fexciting, but not so much as to lose their con-
the bounds of decorum. The women do not
|c processions ; but, in the evening, both sexes
vhere the festivities are said not to be carried
^manner. I longer celebrated with fuU splendour. I
I was, however, so fortunate as
1 of people flocked. This holy
tield one of his arms raised up
"Iflower-pot could stand upon
d, and the flower-pot was
to be brought into any
,cted, the arm was quite
appearance.
out six or eight mUes distant from
so kind as to take me there one
untains, whioh, however, we did not
les, whioh are very near to the

withers The IsC
Bombay,day. I saw som^
ascend; we -visited
landing-place, The principal temple resi,
with the single exception, thai

the larger viharas at Adjunta,
separated on both sides from the

soUd rock, and is connected with it only above, below, and at the
back. In the sanotnary stands a gigantic three-headed bast. Some
beUeye that it represente the Hindoo Trinity ; one of the heads is

THE ISLAND OF SALSETTA. 233
fuU-faoed, the two others in profile, one right, the other left. The
bust, including tiie head-di-ess, measures certainly as much as eight
feet. On the waUs and in the niohes, there are a number of giant
statues and figures ; in fact, whole scenes of the Hindoo mythology.
The female figures are remarkable ; they aU have the left hip tumed
ont, the right tumed inwards. The temple appears to be devoted to
the god Shiva.
In the neighbourhood of the large temple stands a smaller one,
whose waUs are also covered with deities. Both temples were much
injured by the Portuguese, who, when they conquered the island, in
their noble reUgious zeal planted cannon before thera, in order to
desfroy the shocking Pagan teraples ; in which atterapt they succeeded
rauch better than in the conversion of the Pagans. Several colunms
are quite in ruins ; nearly aU are more or less damaged, and the ground
is covered with fragmente. None of either the gods or thefr attendante
escaped uninjured.
There is a most enchanting view across the sea of the extensive
town, and the deUghtful hUls surrounding it, from the fayade of the
large temple. We passed a whole day here very agreeably. During
the hot hours of noon, we amused ourselves by reading in the cool
shadows of the temple. Herr Wattenbach had sent on several
servants pre-viously; among others, the cook, together with tables,
chafrs, provisions, books, and newspapers. In my opinion, this was
rather superfluous ; but what would my countrywomen have said
could they have seen the EngHsh family which we accidentaUy met
with here ; they carried several couches, easy chafrs, enormous foot
stools, a tent, &c., with them. That is what I call a simple country
party! Salsetta (also called Tiger Island) is united to Bombay by means
of a short artificial dam. The distance frora the fort to the vUlage,
behind which the temples are situated, is eighteen mUes, which we
fraveUed, -with relays of horses, iu three hours. The roacls were excel
lent, the carriage roUed along as if on a fioor.
The natural beauty of this island far exceeds that of Bombay.
Not mere rows of hiUs, but magnificent mountain chains here raise
thefr heads, covered even to their summite -with thick woods, from
which bare cUffs here and there project ; the vaUeys are planted with
rich flelds of com, and slender green pahns.
The island does not appear to be densely populated. I saw only
a few -viUages and a single small to-wn inhabited by Mahrattas, whose
appearance is as needy and dirty as those near KimdaUa.
From the -viUage where we left the carriage we had stUl three
mUes to go to the temples.
The principal temple alone is in the style pf a chaitza ; but it is
surrounded by an uncoraraonly high porch, at both extremities of
which idols one-and-twenty feet high stand in niches. Adjoining
to the right is a second temple, which contains several priests' ceUs,
aUegorical flgures of deities, and reUefs. Besides these two, there are
innumerable other smaUer ones in the rocks, which extend on both
sides from the principal teraple ; I was told there were more than a
hundred. They are all viharas with the exception of the principal

834 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
temple ; the greater number, however, are scarcely larger than ordi
nary smaU chambers, and are destitute of any pecuUaritjr.
The rock temples of Elephanta and Salsetta rank, in respect to
magnitude, grandeur, and art, far below those of Adjunta and Elora,
and are of interest only to those who have not seen the latter.
It is said that the temples at Salsetta are not much -visited, because
there is considerable danger attending it; the country is repre
sented to be fuU of tigers, and so many -wUd bees are said to swarm
round the teraples that it is impossible to enter them ; and moreover
the robbers, which are kno-wn by the name of bheels, Hve all round
here. We fortunately met with none of these misfortunes. Later,
indeed, I wandered about here alone. I was not satisfled with a single
sight, and left my friends privately whUe they were taking thefr noon
rest, and clambered from rock to rock as far as the most remote
temple. In one I found the skin and hems of a goat that had been
devoured, which sight soraewhat frightened me ; but trusting to the
unsociability of the tiger, who wiU rather fly fi-ora a raan in broad
day than seek him out, I continued my ramble. We had, as I have
said, no danger to resist ; it was different -with two gentlemen who,
some days later, nearly fell victims, not indeed to -wUd beasts, but to
wUd bees. One of them knocked upon an opening in the side of the
rock, when an iraraense swarm of bees rushed out upon them, and it
was only by the greatest exertion that they escaped, miserably stung
on the head, face, and hands. This occurrence was pubUshed in the
newspapers as a warning for others.
The cHmate of Bombay is healthier than that of Calcutta ; even the
heat is more tolerable on accoimt of the continual sea-breezes, although
Bombay lies flve degrees further south. The mosquitos here, as in all
hot countries, are very tormenting. A centipede sUpped into my bed
one evening, but I fortunately discovered it in time.
I had ah-eady decided upon taking my passage in an Arabian boat,
which was to leave for Bassora on the 2nd of April, when Herr Wat
tenbach brought the news that on the 10th a smaU steamer would
make ite flrst voyage to Bassora. This afforded me great pleasure —
I did not suspect that it would happen -with a stearaer as with a saU
ing vessel, whose departure is postponed frora day to day ; neverthe
less, we did not leave the harbour of Bombay untd the 23rd of AprU.

CHAPTER XVII.

FEOM BOMBAY TO BAGHDAD.

Depahtuke from BoMB.iT — Small-pox— Muscat — ^Bandh-Abas— The Persians— Tire
Kishma Straits — Buschir — Entrance into the Schatbl-Ahab — Bassora — En
trance isrro the Tigris — Bedouin Tribes — Ctesiphon ajjd Seleucia, — Arrival at
Baghbas.
The steamer " Sfr Charles Forbes " (forty horse-power. Captain Lich-
fleld) had only two cabins, a small and a large one. The former had
afready been engaged for some tirae by an Englishraan, Mr. Ross ; the
latter was bespoken by some rich Persians for thefr -wives and chU
dren, I was, therefore, obliged to content myseH with a place upon
deck ; however, I took my meals at the captain's table, who showed
me lie most extrerae attention and kindness during the whole
voyage. The Uttle vessel was, in the fullest sense of the word, overloaded
-with people ; the crew alone nurabered forty-flve ; in addition to that
there were 124 passengers, chiefly Persians, Mahoraedans, and Arabs.
Mr. Ross and rayself were the only Europeans. When this crowd of
persons were coUected, there was not the smallest clear space on the
deck ; to get from one place to another it was necessary to climb over
innumerable cheste and boxes, and at the sarae time to use great cau
tion not to tread upon the heads or feet of the people.
In such critical cfrcumstances I looked about immediately to see
where I could possibly secure a good place. I found what I sought,
and was the most fortunate of all the passengers, more so than even
Mr. Ross, who could not sleep any night in his cabin on account of
the heat and insects. My eye fell upon the xmder part of the captain's
dinner-table, which was flxed upon the stern deck; I took posses
sion of this place, threw my mantle round me, so that I had a pretty
secure position, and no cause to fear that I should have my hands,
feet, or indeed my head trodden upon.
I was somewhat unwell when I left Bombay, and on the second
day of the voyage a sUght attack of biUous fever came on. I had to
contend with this for five days. I crept painfully fi-om ray asylura at
meal tiraes to make way for the feet of the people at table. I did not
take any mediciae (I carried none with rae), but trusted to Providence
and my good constitution.
A much more dangerous malady than mine was discovered on
board on the thfrd day of the voyage. The smaU-pox was in the
large cabin. Eighteen woraen and seven chUdren were crammed in
there. "They had much less roora than the negroes in a slave-ship ; the
afr was in the highest degree infected, and they were not allowed to
go on the deck, filled as it was with men; even we deck passengers

S36 A woman's JOUEN-EY EOUND THE WOELD.
were in great anxiety lest the bad_ afr might spread itself over the
whole ship through the opened windows. The disease had afready
broken out on the children before they were brought on board ; but
no one could suspect it, as the women eame late at night, thickly
veiled, and enveloped in large mantles, under which they carried the
children. It was only on the thfrd day, when one of the children
died, that we discovered our danger. _
'The ehild was wrapped in a white cloth, fastened upon a plank,
which was weighted by some pieces of coal or stone, and lowered into
the sea. At the moment that it touched the water, Ihe waves closed
over it, and it was lost to our sight.
I do not know whether a relation was present at this sad event ; 1
saw no tears flow. The poor mother raight, indeed, have sorrowed, but
she dare not accompany her child ; custom forbade it.
Two more deaths occurred, the other invaUds recovered, and the
contagion happUy did not spread any fm-ther.
soth April. To-day we approached very near to the Arabian
coast, where we saw a chain of moimtains which were barren and by
no means attractive. On the following morning (1st of May) sraall
forts and watch-towers made thefr appearance, here and there, upon
the peaks of beautiful groups of rook, and presently, also, a large one
was perceptible upon an extensive moimtain at the enfrance of a
creek. We came to anchor off the town of Muscat, which Ues at the
exfremity of the creek. This town, which is subject to an Arabian
prince, is very sfrongly fortifled, and surrounded by several ranges of
extraordinarily formed rooks, all of which are also occupied by forts
and towers. Tho largest of these excites a sad reminiscence : it was
formerly a cloister of Portuguese monks, and was attacked by the
Arabs one night, who murdered the whole of its inmates. This
occun-ence took place about two centuries since.
The houses of the town are buUt of stone, with small windows
and terraced roofs. Two houses, distinguished from the others only by
thefr larger dimensions, are the palaces of the mother of the reigning
prince, and of the sheikh (govemor). Some of the sfreets are so
narrow that two persons can scarcely walk togetiier. The bazaar,
according to the Turkish custora, consists of covered passages, under
which the merchants sit cross-legged before thefr miserable staUs.
In the rocky valley in which Muscat Hes the heat is very op
pressive (124° Fah. in the sun), and the sunlight is very injurious to
the eyes, as it is not in the slightest degree softened by any vegetation.
Far and wide there are no frees, no shrubs or grass to be seen.
Every one who is in any way engaged here, go as soon as thefr
business is finished to thefr counfry-houses situated by the open sea.
There are no Em-opeans here ; the cUmate is considered fatal to
them. At the back of the town Ues a long rocky valley, in which is a
-viUage containing several burial-places, and, wonderful to say, a Uttie
garden With six palms, a fig, and a pomegranate-free. The village is
larger and more populous than the town ; containing 6,000 inhabitante,
while the latter has only 4,000. It is impossible to form anyconcep-

MUSCAT. 2J7
tion of the poverty, filth, and stench in this vUlago ; the huts stand
nearly one over the other, aie very smaU, and built only of reeds
and palm-leaves ; every kind of refuse was thrown before the doors.
It requires considerable seK-denial to pass through such a place, and
I wonder that plague, or some other contagion, does not continuaUy
rage there. Diseases of the eyes and blindness are, however, very
frequent. Frora this valley I passed into a second, which contains the greatest
cm-iosity of Muscat, a rather extensive garden, whioh, with its date-
palms, flowers, vegetables, and plantations, constitutes a true picture
of an oasis in the desert. The vegetation is only kept up, for the
most part, by continual watering. The garden belongs to the Arabian
prince. My guide seemed to be very proud of this wonderful garden,
and asked me whether there were such beautiful gardens in my
country !
The women in Muscat wear a kind of mask of blue stuff over
the face, fastened upon springs or wfres, which project sorae distance
beyond the face ; a hole is cut in the mask between the forehead and
nose, which aUows something more than the eyes to be seen. These
masks are wom by the women only when they are at some distance
from home; in and near thefr houses they are not used. All the
women that I saw were very ugly ; the men, also, had not the fine,
proud features which are so frequently met -with among the Arabians.
Great nurabers of negroes are eraployed here as slaves.
I raade this excursion at the time of the greatest heat (124° Fah.
in the sun), and rather weakened by ray Ulness, but did not ex
perience the sUghtest Ul consequences. I had been repeatedly
warned that in warra countries the heat of the sun was very injurious
to Europeans who were not accustomed to it, and frequently caused
fever and soraetiraes even sun-sfroke. If I had attended to every
advice, I should not have seen ranch. I did not allow myself to be
led asfray — went out in all weathers, and always saw more than my
companions in fravel.
On the 2nd of May we again set saU, and on the Srd of May entered
the Persian Sea, and passed very near to the island of Ormus. The
moimtains there are remarkable for a variegated play of colours;
many spote shine as if they were covered -with snow. They contain
large quantities of salt, and numbers of caravans come annuaUy from
Persia and Arabia to procure it. In the evening we reached the
smaU Persian to-wn of Bandr-Abas, off which we anchored.
May 4th. The town is situated on low hUls of sand and rocks,
whieh are separated from higher mountains by a small plain. Here
also the whole country is barren and wUd; soUtary groups of pahns
are found only in the plains.
I looked vristfully towards the land, — I would gladly have -visited
Persia. The captain, however, ad-vised me not to do so in the dress
I wore ; because, as he inforraed me, the Persians were not so good-
natured as the Hindoos, and the appearance of a European woman
in this remote district was too uncommon an event ; I might proba
bly be greeted -with a shower of stones.
Fortanately there was a young man on board who was half

23S A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
EngUsh and half Persian (his father, an EngUshman, had married an
Armenian fi-om Teheran), and spoke both languages equally weU. I
asked him to take rae on shore, which he very readily did. He con
ducted me fo the bazaar, and through several streets. The people
indeed flocked from all sides and gazed at me, but did not offer me
the sUghtest annoyance.
The houses here are small, and built in the Oriental style, with
few windows, and terraced roofs. The sfreets are narrow, dirty, and
seemingly uninhabited ; the bazaar only appeared busy. The bakers
here prepare thefr bread in the raost siraple manner, and, indeed,
immediately in the presence of thefr customers : they knead some
meal with water into a dough, in a wooden dish, separate this into
small pieces, which they squeeze and draw out -with thefr hands,
until they are forraed into large thin flakes, which are sraeared over
-with salt water, and stuck into the inner side of a round tube.
These tubes are raade of clay, are about eighteen inches in diameter,
and twenty-two in length ; they are sunk one half in the ground,
and furnished with an afr-draft below. Wood-charcoal is burnt
inside the tube at the bottom. The cakes are baked on both sides at
once ; at the back by the red-hot tube, and in front by the charcoal
fire. I had half-a-dozen of such cakes baked — when eaten warm,
they are very good.
It is easy to distinguish the Persians frora the Arabs, of whom
there are raany here. The forraer are larger, and raore strongly built ;
their skin is whiter, their features coarse and powerful, and then-
general appearance mde and -wild. Their dress reserables that of the
Mahomedans. Many wear turbans, others a corneal cap of black
Asfrachan, frora a foot to one and a half high.
I was told of so great an act of gratitude of the young raan, Mr.
William Hebworth, who accorapanied me to Bandr-Abas, that I cannot
omit to mention it. At the age of sixteen he went from Persia to
Bombay, where he raet -with the kindest reception in the house of a
friend of his father's, by whora he was assisted in every way, and
even obtained an appointment through his interest. One day his
pafron, who was married, and the father of four chUdren, had the
misfortune to be thrown from his horse, and died from the effects of
the fall. Mr. Hebworth made the fruly noble resolve of marrying
the -widow, who was much older than himself, and, instead of pro
perty, possessed only her four children, that he raight in this way
pay the debt of gratitude whioh he owed to his deceased benefactor.
Iri Bandr-Abas we hfred a pilot to take us through the Sfraits of
Kishraa. About noon we saUed.
The passage through these straits is without danger for steamers,
but is avoided by saUing vessels, as the space between the island
Kishma and the raainland is in parts very narrow, and the ships might
be driven on to the shore by contrary winds.
The inland forras an extended plain, and is partially covered with
thin underwood. Great numbers of people corae from the neighbour
ing mainland to feteh wood frora here.
The captain had spoken very highly of the remarkable beauty of
this voyage, the luxuriance of the island, the spots where the sea

BUSCHIR — ENTRANCE INTO THE SCHATEL-AEAB. 238
was SO nai-row that the tops of the palms growing on the island and
mainland touched each other, &c. Since the last voyage of the good
captain, a very unft-equent phenomenon would seem to have taken
place — the lofty slender palras were traiisforraed into miserable
underwood, and, at the narrowest point, the mainland was at least
half a mUe fi-om the island. Strange to say, Mr. Ross afterwards
gave the same description of the place ; he believed the captain m
preference to his own eyes.
At one of the raost considerable confractions stands the handsome
fort Luft. Fifteen years since the principal stronghold of the Persian
pfrates was in this neighbom-hood. A severe battle was fought
between them and the EngUsh, near Luft, in which upwards of
800 were kiUed, many taken prisoners, and the whole gang broken
up. Since that event, perfect security has been restored.
Sth May. We left the straits, and three days later came to
anchor off Buschfr.
There are considerable quantities of sea-weeds and moUuscae in
the Persian Gulf; the latter had raany fibres, were of a railk-white
colour, and reserabled a forest agaric in form ; others had a glistening
rose colour -with smaU yeUow spots. Conger eels of two or three feet
in length were not uncommon.
8th May. The to-wn of Buschir is situated on a plain six raUes
fi-om the mountains, whose highest peak, called by the Persians
Horrautsch, by the EngUsh Halala, is 5,000 feet high.
The town contains 15,000 inhabitants, and has the best harbour
in Persia ; but its appearance is very dirty and ugly.
The houses stend quite close together, so that it is easy to pass
frora one to the other over the terraces, and it requires no great
exertion to run over the roofs, as the terraces are enclosed only by
walls one or two feet high. • Upon some houses, square chambers
(caUed wind-catchers), fifteen or twenty feet high, are erected, which
can be opened above and at the sides, and serve to intercept the wind
and lead it into the apartments.
The woraen here cover up thefr faces to such a degree that I cannot
imagine how they flnd thefr way about. Even the smallest gfrls
imitate this foolish custom. There is also no lack of nose-rings,
bracelete, sandals, &c. ; but they do not wear nearly so many as the
Hindoos. The raen are all arraed; even in the house they carry
daggers or knives, and besides these, pistols in the streets.
We remained two days in Buschfr, where I was very well received
by Lieutenant Hennelt, the resident.
I would gladly have left the ship here to visit the ruins of Per
sepoHs, and travel by land from thence to Shfraz, Ispahan, Teheran,
and so onwards ; but serious disturbances had broken out in these
districte, and numerous hordes of robbers carried on their depredations.
I was in consequence compeUed to alter my plan, and to go straight
on to Baghdad.
10th May. In the afternoon we left Buschfr.
llth May. To-day I had the gratiflcation of seeing and saUing
on one of the most celebrated rivers in the world, the Schatel-Arab
(river of the Arabs), which is formed by the junction of the Euphrates,

MO A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
Tigris, and Kaurun, and whose mouth resembles an arm of the sea.
The Schatel-Arab retains its name as far as the delta bf the Tigris
and Eujjkrates.
12th May. We left the sea and the mountains behind at the
same time, and on both shores iraraense plains opened before us whose
boundaries were lost in the distance.
Twenty raUes below Bassora we turned off into the Kaurun to set
down sorae passengers at the little town of Maharabrah, -which Ues
near the entrance of that river. We immediately turned ba:^ again,
and the captain brought the vessel round in the narrow space in an
exceedingly clever way. This proceeding caused the uninitiated some
anxiety ; we expected every moraent to see either the head or stern
mn a-ground, but it succeeded weU beyond all measm-e. The whole
population of the town was assembled on the shore ; they had never
before seen a stearaer, and took the most Uvely interest in the bold
and hazardous enterprise.
About six years ago, the to-wn Maharabrah experienced a terrible
catastrophe ; it was at that time under Turkish rule, and was sur
prised and plundered by the Persians ; nearly aU the inhabitants,
amounting to 5,000, were put to death. Since that period it has
been retained by the Persians.
Towards noon we arrived at Bassora. Nothing is visible fi-om
the river but sorae fortifled works and large foreste of date-trees,
behind which the town is situated far inland.
The joumey frora Borabay to this place had occupied eighteen
days, in consequence of the unfavourable monsoon, and was one of
the most unpleasant voyages which Licver raade. Always upon deck
in the midst of a dense crowd of people, with a heat which at noon
time rose to 99° 5'' Fah., even under the shade of a tent. I was only
once able to change my linen and- OT«gs at Buschfr, which was the
more annoying as one could not prevent the accumulation of vermin.
I longed for a refreshing and purifying bath.
Bassora, one of the largest towns of Mesopotamia, has among its
inhabitants only a single European. I had a letter to the' EngHsh
agent, an Armenian named Barseige, whose hospitality I was com
peUed to claim, as there was no hotel. Captain Lichfield presented
my letter to him and made known my request, but the poUte man
refused to grant it. The good captain offered rae accommodation on
board his ship, so that I was pro-vided for for the present.
The landing of the Persian woraen presented a most laughable
spectacle : if they had been beauties of the highest order, or princesses
from the sultan's harem, there could not have heen more cabe taken
to conceal them from the possibiHty of being seen by men.
I was indebted to my sex for the few gUmpses which I caught of
thera in tlie cabin ; but araong the whole eighteen women I did not
see a single good-looking one. Their husbands placed themselves ia
two rows from the cabin to the ship's ladder, holding la^ cloths
stretched before them, and forming in this way a land of opaque
moveable wall on both sides. Presently the woraen came out of the
cabin ; they were so covered with large -wrappers thatytliey had to
be led as if they were bUnd. They stood close together between the

BASSOEA. S41
waUs, and waited until the whole -were assembled, when the entire
party, namely, the moveable waU and tiie beauties concealed behind
it, proceeded step by step. The scrambling over the narrow ship's
ladders was truly pitiable ; first one stumbled, and then another. The
landing occupied more than an hour.
13th May. The captain brought me word that a German missionary
was accidentaUy at Bassora, who had a dwelHng with several rooms,
and could probably give me shelter. I went to him imraediately,
and he was so obUging as to provide rae -with a room in which, at the
same time, I found a fireplace. I took leave of the good captain with
sincere regret. I shall never forget his friendUness and attentions.
He was a fruly good-hearted raan, and yet the unfortunate crew,
mostiy Hindoos aud negroes, were treated worse on board his ship
than I had observed elsewhere. This was the fault of the two mates,
who accompanied nearly every word with pushes and blows of the
fist. In Muscat three of the poor feUows ran away.
The Christian Europeans excel the pagan Hindoos and Mussulmen
in leaming and science ; might they not also at least equal the latteir
in kindness and humanity ?
A smaU EngHsh wai--steamer was expected at Bassora in tho
course of a few days, which carried letters and dispatches between
this place and Baghdad, and whose captain was so good as to tako
European traveUers (of whora there are not many that lose themselves
here) -with him.
I avaUed myself of the few days of my stay to look about the town,
and see what still reraains of its ancient celebrity.
Bassora, or Bassra, was founded in the reign of the CaUph Oraar,
ih the year 656. , Sometimes under Turkish, soraetiraes under Persian
dorainion, it was at last permanently placed under the latter power.
There are no vestiges of antiquity remaining ; neither ruins of hand
sorae raosques nor caravansaries. The fortified waUs are much
dUapidated, the houses of the to-wn small and unatfractive, the
sfreets crooked, narrow, and dfrty. The bazaar, which consists of
covered gaUeries with -wretched stalls, , caimot show a single good
stock of goods, although Bassora is the principal emporium and
frading port for the Indian wares imported into "Turkey. There are
several coffee-staUs and a second-rate caravansary in the bazaar. A
large open space, not very remarkable for cleanliness, serves in tho
day as a corn-market ; and in the evening several hundred guests are
to he seen seated before a large coffee-steU, drinking coffee and smok
ing nargiUies.
Modem ruins are abundant in Bassora, the result of the plague
which in the year 1832 carried off nearly one half of the inhabitants.
Numbers of sfreets and squares consist only of forsaken and decaying
houses. Where, a few years back, men were busUy engaged in frade,
there is now nothing left but ruins and rubbish and weeds, and
palmsgrow between crumbUng walls.
The position of Bassora is said to be particularly unhealthy : the
plain sm-rounding it is intersected at one extreraity with numerous
ditehes fiUed -with raud and filth, which give off noxious exhalations,
at the other it is covered with forests of date trees, which hinders the

242 A WOMAN- S JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
current of afr. The heat is so great here, that nearly every house is
furmshed with an apartraent, which Hes several feet below the level
of the steeet, and has windows only in the high arches. People Hve
in these rooras during the day.
The inhabitants consist for the most part of Arabs ; the rest are
Persians, Turks, and Armenians. There are no Europeans. I was
advised to wrap myself in a large cloth and wear a veU when I went
out ; the forraer I did, but I could not endure the veil in the excessive
heat, and went with ray face uncovered. The cloth (Iser) I carried
so clumsUy that my European clothes were always visible ; neverthe
less I was not annoyed by any one.
On the 16th of May, the steamer Nitocris arrived. It was small
(forty horse power), but very handsome and clean ; the captain, Mr.
Johns, declared himself ready to take me, and the first officer,
Mr. Holland, gave up his cabin to me. They would not take any
compensation either for passage or board.
'The joumey from Bassora to Baghdad would have been very
fatiguing and inconvenient if I had not met -with this opportunity.
With a boat it would have requfred forty or fifty days, as the distance
is 600 EngHsh mUes, and the boat must have been for greater part of
the distance drawn by men. The distance by land amounts to 390
raUes; but the road is through deserts, which are inhabited by
noraadic tribes of Bedouins, and over-run -with hordes of robbers,
whose protection must be purchased at a high price.
17th May. We weighed anchor in the morning at 11 o'clock,
and avaUed ourselves of the current which extends 120 raUes up the
stoeara. In the aftemoon we reached the point Kerne, also caUed the
Delta (fifty raUes frora Bassora). The Tigris and Euphrates join
here. Both rivers are equally large, and as it could not, probably, be
decided which narae should be retained, both were given up, and that
of Schatel-Arab adopted.
Many leamed -writers atterapt to give increased iraportance
to this place, by endeavouring to prove by indubitable evidence that
the garden of Eden was situated here. If this was the case, our
worthy progenitor raade a long journey after he was driven out of
Paradise, to reach Adara's Peak in Ceylon.
We now entered the Tigris. For a distance of three miles fur
ther, we were gratified by the sight of beautiful forests of date-trees,
which we had already enjoyed, almost without intermission, from the
mouth of the Schatel-Arab ; they now suddenly terminated. Both
sides of the river were stUl covered with a rich vegetation, and beau
tiful orchards, alternated with extended plots of grass, which were
partially covered with bushes or shrub-Uke trees. This fruitfulness,
however, is said to extend only a few mUes iidand : more distant from
the river the country is a barren wUderness.
We saw in several places large tribes of Bedouins, who had pitched
their tents in long rows, for the most part close to the banks. Some of
these hordes had large closely-covered tents ; others again had merely
a straw mat, a cloth, or some skins stretched on a pafr of poles,
scarcely protecting the heads of those lying under them frpm the

BEDOI'IN TRIBES. Sf!
burning rays of the sun. In winter, when tiie temperature frequently
falls to freezing point, they have the same dwellings and clothing as
in summer: the mortality araong them is then very great. These peo
ple have a wild appearance, and their clothing consiste of only a dark-
brown mantle. The men have a part of this drawn between the legs,
and another part hung round them ; the women completely envelope
themselves in it ;, the children very commonly go quite naked until
the twelfth year. The colour of their skin is a dark brown, the face
slightly tatooed : both the raen and women braid their hair into four
plaits, which hang down upon the back of the head and temples.
The weapons of the men are stout linotted sticks ; the women are
fond of adorning themselves with glass beads, mussel-shells, and
coloured rags ; they also weai- large nose-rings.
They are all divided into tribes, and are under the dominion of
the Porte, to whom they pay tribute ; but they acknowledge alle
giance only to the sheikh elected by themselves, raany of whora have
forty or fifty thousand tents under their control. Those tribes who
cultivate land have fixed dwellings ; the pastoral tribes are nomadic.
Half-way between Bassora and Baghdad, the lofty mountain chain
of Luristan becomes visible. When the atmosphere is clear, the sum
mits, 10,000 feet high, and covered with perpetual snow, may be seen.
Every step in advance leads to the scene of the great deeds of
Cambyses, Cyrus, Alexander, &c. : every spot of ground has histori
cal associations. The country is the same ; but what has become of
its towns and its powerful empires ? Ruined walls and heaps of
earth and rubbish are the only remains of the most beautiful cities;
and where firmly established empires formerly existed, are barren
steppes overrun by robber hordes.
The Arabs engaged in agriculture are themselves exposed to the
depredations of thefr noraadic countrymen, especially in harvest time.
In order to avoid this evil as much as possible, they bring their crops
into sinall fortified places, of which I observed many between Bassora
and Baghdad.
We took in wood several times during the passage, and on these
occasions I could approach the inhabitants without fear, as they were
inspired with respect for the well-manned and armed vessel. In one
instance, I was led far into the underwood in pursuit of some beautiful
insects, when I found rayself on a sudden surrounded by a swarm of
women and children, so that I thought it advisable to hasten back
again to the ship's people — ^not that any one offered me any violence ;
but they crowded round me, handled ray dress, wanted to put on my
straw bonnet; and this familiarity was far from pleasant on account
of their extreme dirtiness. The chUdren seemed shockingly neglected ;
many were covered with pimples and small sores ; and both great and
small had their hands constantly in thefr hair.
At the places where we stopped they generally brought sheep and
butter, both of avhich were singularly cheap. A sheep cost at the
utmost five krans (4s. Gd.). They were very large and fat, with long
thick wool, and fat tails of about fifteen inches long and eight inches
broad. Our crew had a better diet than I had ever noticed on board
any ship. What pleased me even more was the equal good treat-

844 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
ment of fhe natives, who were not in any particular less thought of
than the English. I never raet with greater order and cleanliness
than here — a proof that blows and thumps are not indispensably
necessary, as I had so often been assured.
In the districts where the ground -was covered with underwood and
grass, I saw several herds of wild swine ; and there were said to be
Hons here, who come from the mountains, especially during the win
ter time, when they carried off cows and sheep : they very seldom
attecked men. I was so fortunate as to see a pair of lions, but at
such a distance, that I cannot say whether they exceeded in beauty
and size those in European menageries. Among the birds, the peli
cans were so polite as to make their respects to us by scraping.
21st May. To-day we saw the ruins of the palace of Khuszew
Anushirwan at Ctesiphon. Ctesiphon was formerly the capital of
the Parthian, and afterwards of the new Persian empire : it was
destroyed by the Arabs in the seventeenth century. Nearly opposite,
on the right bank of the Tigpiis, lay Seleucia, one of the most cele
brated towns of Babylon, and which, at the time of its prosperity, had
a free independent governraent and a population of 600,000 souls.
The chief portion were Greeks.
One obtained two views of Ctesiphon in passing, in consequence
of the river winding considerably — alraost running back again several
miles. I made a tnp there from Baghdad, and therefore reserve my
account of it.
The old caUphate appears^ in marvellous magnificence and extent
from a distance, but unfortunately loses this on nearer approach. The
minarets and cupolas, inlaid with variegated earthenware tiles, glitter
in the clear sunlight ; palaces, gateways, and fortified works, in end
less succession, bound the yeUow, muddy Tigris ; and gardens, with
date and other fi-uit trees, cover the flat country for miles round.
We had scarcely anchored, when a number of natives surromidcd
the ship. They made use of very singular vehicles, which resemble
round baskets : these are formed of thick palm leaves, and covered
with asphalt. They are called " guffer ; " are six feet in diameter and
three feet in height ; are very safe, for they never upset, and may be
travelled in over the worst roads. Their invention is very ancient.
I had a letter to the English resident. Major Rawlinson ; but as
Mr. Holland, the first officer of the ship, offered me the use of his
house, I took advantage of this, on account of his being a married
raan, which Mr. Rawlinson was not. I found Mrs. Holland a very
pretty, amiable woman (a native of Baghdad), who, though only
three-and-twenty, had already four children, the eldest of whom was
eight years old.

CHAPTER XVIII.
MESOPOTAMI.l, BAGHDAD, AND BABYLON.
Baghdad — Princip.4l BuiU)ings — Climate — Entertainment at the English Resident's
— Harem of the Pascua of Baghdad— Excursion to the Ruins ov Ctesiphon —
TttE Persian Prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirea — ^Excursion to the Ruins of
B.4BYL0N — ^Departure from Baghdad.
Baghdad, the capital of Assyria, was founded during the reign of
the Csdiph Abu-Jasar-Almansor. A centui-y later, in the reign of
Haroun-al-Raschid, the best and most enlightened of all the caliphs,
the town was at its highest pitch of prosperity ; but at the end of
another century, it was destroyed by the Turks. In the sixteenth
centory it was conquered by the Persians, and continued to be a per
petual source of discord between them and the Turks, although it at
length became annexed to the Ottoman Empire. Nadfr Schah again
endeavoured to wrest it fi-om the Turks in the eighteenth century.
The present population, of about 60,000 souls, consists of about
three-fourths Turks, and the reraainder of Jews, Persians, Armenians,
and Arabs. There are only fifty or sixty Europeans Uving there.
The town is partly situated on both sides of the Tigris, but chiefly
on the east. It is surrounded by fortified walls of brick, with nuraerous
towers at regular intervals ; both walls and towers, however, are
weak, and even somewhat dangerous, and the eaimons upon them are
not in good condition.
The ffrst tiling that it was necessary for rae to provide myself
with here, was a large linen wrapper, called isar, a small fez, and a
kerchief, which, wound round the fez, forms a Httle turban ; but J
did not make use of the thick, stiff mask, raade of horse-hafr, which
covers the face, and under which the wearer is nearly suffocated. It
is impossible to imagine a more inconvenient out-door dress for our
sex than the one wom here. The isar gathers the dust from the
ground, and it requfres some dexterity to hold it together in such a
way as to envelope the whole body. I pitied the poor women greatly,
who were often obUged to carry a child, or some other load, or per
haps even to wash Hnen in the river. They never came from this
work, except dripping with water. Even the smaUest gfrls here are
clothed in this way whenever they go out.
In ray Orientel dress I could walk about without any covering on
ray face, perfectly uninteirupted. I first examined the town, but
there was not much to see, as there are no remains of the old cali
phate buUdings. The houses are of burnt bricks, and are only one
story high ; the backs are aU turned towards the streets, and it is but
rarely that a projecting part of the house is seen with narrow latticed
¦windows. Those houses only whose fa9ades are towards the Tigris
Q2

246 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WORLD.
make an exception to this rule; they have ordinary windows, and
are sometimes very handsorae. I found the streets rather narrow,
and fuU of dfrt and dust. The bridge of boats over the Tigris, which
is here 690 feet broad, is the most wretched that I ever saw. The
bazaars are very extensive. The old bazaar, a reUe of the foriner
town, still shows traces of handsome columns and arabesques, and
Chan Osman is distinguished by its beautiful portal and lofty arches,
The principal passages are so broad, that there is room for a horse
man and two foot passengers, to go through side by side. _ The mer
chants and artizans here, as in all eastem countries, live in separate
streets and passages. The better shops are to be found in private
houses, or in the chans at the bazaars. Miserable coffee-stalls are
everywhere numerous.
The palace of the pascha is an extensive buUding, but neither
tasteful nor costly ; it is imposing only fi-om a distance. There are
but few mosques, and those present nothing costly or artistic, except
the inlaid tiles.
To be able to overlook the whole of Baghdad, I mounted, -with
great difficulty, the exterior of the dome of the Osman Chan, and was
truly astounded at the extent and beautiful position of the town. It
is impossible to form any idea of an Orientel town by passing through
the narrow and uniform streete, no matter how often, as these are all
alike, and, one with the other, reserable the passages of a jaU. But,
frora above, I looked down over the whole town, with its innuraerable
houses, many of which are' situated in pretty gardens. I saw thou
sands and thousands of terraces spread at ray feet, and before all, the
beautiful river, rolling on through dark orchards and palra groves, to
the town, which extends along its banks for five miles.
All the buildings are, as already remarked, constructed of un
burnt bricks, of which the greater part are stated to have been
brought down the Euphrates, from the ruins of the neighbouring
city of Babylon. By a close exaraination, traces of the old architec
ture are to be found on the fortiflcations ; the bricks of whioh they
are buUt are about two feet in diameter, and resemble fine slabs of
stone. The houses are prettier inside than out ; they have clean plastered
courts, numerous windows, &c. The rooms are large and lofty, but
not nearly so magnificently furnished as those in Damascus. The
suramer is so hot here, that people find it necessary to change their
rooms three times a-day. The early part of the morning is passed
in the ordinary rooms ; towards 9 o'clock they retfre, dm-ing the
remainder of the day, into the underground rooras, called sardab,
which, like cellars, are frequently situated fifteen or twenty feet
below the surface ; at sunset they go up on to the terraces, where
they receive visits, gossip, drink tea, and reraain -antil night. This
is the raost pleasant time, as the evenings aie cool and enlivening.
Many affirm the moonUght is clearer here than with us, but 1 did not
find this to be the case. People sleep on the terraces under musquito
nets, which surround the wliole bed. The heat rises in the rooms,
during the day, as high as 99°; in the sun, to 122° or 131'"' Fah.; it
seldom exceeds 88° 25' in tho sardabs. In -vrinter, the evenings.

BAOUDAD. 217
nights, and mornings arc so cold, that fires are ncoessai-y in tho
rooms. The climate of this place is considered very healthy, even by
Europeans. Nevertheless, there is a disease here of which the young-
females ai-e terribly afraid, and which not only attacks the natives,
hut strangers, when they remain several months here. This is a
disgusting eruption, which is called the Aleppo BoU, or Date-mark.
This ulcer, which is at first no larger than a pin's head, gradually
increases to the size of a halfcrown piece, and leaves deep scars. It
generally breaks out on the face ; there is scarcely one face among a
hundred, to be seen -without these disfiguring marks. Those who
have only one have reason to consider themselves fortunate; I saw
many with two or three of them. Other parts of the body are also
not exempt. The ulcers generaUy appear with the ripening of the
dates, and do not go away untU the next year, when the same season
returns again. This disease does not occur more than once in a life
time ; it attacks chUdren for the raost part during their infancy. No
remedy is ever applied, as experience has shown that it cannot be
prevented ; the Europeans have tried inoculation, but without success.
This disease is met with in several districts on the Tigris ; there
are no traces of it to be found at a distance frora the river. It would
appear, therefore, to be, in sorae way, connected with the evaporation
fi-om the sfream, or the mud deposited on its banks; the former seems
less probable, as the crews of the English steameae, which are always
on the river, escape, while all the Europeans who live on land fall
victims to it. One of the latter had forty such boils, and I was told
that he suffered horribly. The French consul, who expected to
remain here for several years, would not bring his wife with him, to
expose her face to the danger of these ineradicable raarks. I had
only been here some weeks, when I discovered slight indications
of a boU on my hand, which became large, but did not penetrate
very deep, and left no permanent scar. I exulted greatly at escaping
so easily, but ray exultation did not continue long ; only six raonths
afterwards, when I had returned to Europe, this disease broke out
with such violence that I was covered with thfrteen of those boils,
and had to contend with thera more than eight raonths.
On the 24th of May I received an invitation from the English
resident. Major Rawlinson, to an entertainment in honour of
the queen's birth day. There were only Europeans present at dinner,
but in the evening, all denominations of the Christian world were
admitted — Armenians, Greeks, &c. This entertainment was given
upon the handsome terraces of the house. The fioor was covered with
soft carpete ; cushioned divans invited the fatigued to rest, and the bril
liant iUumination of the terraces, courte, and gardens diffused a Ught
almost equal to that of day. Refreshments of the most deUcate kind
made it difficult for Europeans to remember that they were so far from
their native countiy. Less deceptive were two bands of rausic, one of
which played European, the other native pieces, for the amusement
of the guests. Ffre-works, with baleens and Bengal Hghts, were
followed by a sumptuous supper, which closed the evening's enter
tainraents. Among the women and girls present, there were sorae

348 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD.
remarkably beautiful, but aU had most bewitching eyes, which
no young man could glance at with impunity. The art of dying
the eyelids and eyebrows principaUy contributes to this. Every
hair on the eyebrows which makes its appearance in an improper
place, is carefully plucked out, and those which are deficient have
their place most artistically supplied by the pencil. The most
beautiful arched form is thus obtained, and this, together -with the
dyeing of the eyelids, increases uncomraonly the brightness of the
eye. The desire for such artificial beauty extends itself even to the
commonest servant girls.
The fair sex were dressed in Turkish-Greek costume ; they wore
silk trousers, gathered together round the ankles, and over these,
long upper garments, embroidered with gold, the arms of which were
tight as far as the elbow, and were then slit open, and hung down.
'The bare part of the arm was covered by silk sleeves. Round thefr
waists were fastened stiff girdles of the breadth of the hand, orna
mented in front with large buttons, and at the sides with smaller ones.
The buttons were of gold, and worked in enamel. Mounted pearls,
precious stones, and gold coins, decorated the arras, neck, and breast.
The head was covered with a small, pretty turban, wound round with
gold chains, or gold lace ; numerous thin tresses of hair stole frora
underneath, faUing down to the hips. Unfortunately, raany of thera
had the bad taste to dye their hair, by which its brUUant black was
changed into an ugly brown-red.
Beautiful as this group of woraen were in appearance, thefr society
was very uninteresting, for an unbroken silence was maintained by
these members of our garrulous sex, and not one of their pretty faces
expressed an emotion or sentiraent. Mind and education, the zests
of life, were wanting. The native girls are taught nothing ; their
education is completed when they are able to read in thefr mother
tongue (Armenian or Arabian), and then, with the exception of
some religious books, they have no other reading.
It was more Hvely at a visit -^vhieh I made, some days later, to
the harem ofthe pasha; there was then so much chatting, laughing,
and joking, that it was alraost too rauch for rae. My visit had been
expected, and the woraen, fifteen in number, were sumptuously
dressed in the same way that I have already described ; with the
single exception, that the upper garment (kaftan) was shorter, and
made of a raore fransparent material, and the turbans ornamented
with ostrich feathers.
I did not see any very handsome women here ; they had only good
eyes, but neither noble nor expressive features.
'The suramer harem, in which I was received, was a pretty build
ing, in the most modern style of European architecture, with lofty,
regular -windows. It stood in the middle of a smaU flower-garden,
which was surrounded by a large fruit-garden.
After I had been here rather more than an hour, a table was laid,
and chairs placed round it. The principal woman invited rae tojoin
them, and leading the way, seated herself at the table, when, without
waiting till we were seated, she hastily picked out her favourite
morsels from the vai-ious dishes with her hands. I was also com-

HAREM OF TIIE PASHA OF BAGHDAD. 249
polled to help myself with my hands, as there was no knife and fork
in the 'whole house, and it was only towards the end of the meal that
a large gold teaspoon was brought for me.
The table was profusely covered with excellent meat-dishes, with
different pilaus, and a quanty of sweet-meats and fruits. I found
them all delicious, aud one dish so much resembled our fritters, that
I almost thought it was meant for thera.
After we had finished, those who had not roora to sit down with
us took thefr seats together with some of the principal attendants ;
after them came, in succession, the inferior slaves, among whom were
some very ugly negresses ; these also seated themselves at the table,
and ate what remained.
After the conclusion of the meal, sfrong coffee was handed round,
in small cups, and nargiUies brought. The cups stood in little golden
bowls, ornamented with pearls and turquoises.
The pasha's women are distinguished fi-om their attendants and
slaves only by their dress and jewellery ; in demeanour I found no
difference. The attendants seated theraselves without hesitation
upon the divans, joined, unin-vited, in the conversation, smoked, and
drank coffee as we did. Servants and slaves are far better and more
considerately treated by the natives than by the Europeans. Only
the Turks hold slaves here.
Although such strict decorura is observed in aU pubUc places,
there is an utter disregard of it in the harems and baths. While a
part of the woraen were engaged in sraoking and drinking coffee, I
sUpped away, and went into some of the adjoining apartments, where
I saw enough, in a few minutes, to fill me with disgust and commis
eration' for these poor creatures; from slothfulness and the want
of education, morality appeared to be so degraded as to profane the
very name of humanity.
I was not less grieved by a visit to a public female bath. There
were young ehUdren, girls, women, and mothers ; some having their
hands, feet, nails, eyebrows, hafr, &c., washed and coloured : others
were being bathed with watet, or rubbed with fragrant oils and
pomades, while the chUdren played about among them, WhUe all
this was going on, the conversation that prevailed was far from being
remarkable for its decency. Poor children I how are they to acquire
a respect for modesty, when they are so early exposed to the infiuence
of such pernicious examples.
Among the other curiosities of Baghdad, I saw the funeral monu
ment of Queen Zobiede, the favourite wife of Haroun-al-Raschid.
It is interesting, because it differs very rauch from the ordinary
monuments of the Mahomedans. Instead of handsome cupolas and
minarete, it consists of a moderate sized tower, rising frora an octagon .
building ; the tower has a considerable reserablance to those of the
Hindoo teraples. In the interior stand three plainly built tombs, in
-one of which the queen is buried ; in the other two, relations of the
royal famUy. The whole is constructed of bricks, and was formerly
covered with handsorae cement, coloured tiles, and arabesques, of-
which traces still remain.
Mahoraedans consider all such monuments sacred; they frequentiy

250 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WOELD.
come from great distances to offer up thefr devotions before thera.
They think it equally desirable to erect a burial-place near such a
monument, which they show with pride to their friends and re
lations. Round this monument there were large spaces covered with
tombs. On the return from this monuraent, I went a little out of my way
to see that part of the town which had fallen into ruins, and been
desolated by the last plague. Herr Swoboda, an Hungarian, gave
me a dreadful picture of the state of the town at that time. He had
shut himself closely up with his family and a maid servant, and being
well furnished with provisions, received nothing from outside but
fresh water. He carefully plastered up the doors and windows, and
no one was allowed to go out upon the terraces, or, indeed, into the
afr at all.
These precautions were the means of preserving his whole family
in health, while many died in the neighbouring houses. It was
impossible to buiy all the dead, and the bodies were left to decompose
where they died. After the plague had ceased, the Arabs of the-
desert made their appearance for the purpose of robbing and plun
dering. They found an easy spoil, for they penetrated without
resistance into the empty houses, or without difficulty overpowered
the few enfeebled people who remained. Herr Swoboda, among the
rest, was obliged to make an agreement with the Arabs, and pay
tribute. I was glad to leave this melancholy place, and directed my steps
towards some of the pleasant gardens, of which there are great numbers
in and round Baghdad. None of these gardens, however, are artificial ;
they consist siraply of a thick wood of fruit-trees, of all species (dates,
apple, apricot, peach, fig, raulberry, and other trees), surrounded by
a brick wall. There is, unfortunately, neither order nor cleanUness
observed, and there are neither grass plots nor beds of flowers, and
not a single good path ; but there is a considerable number of canals,
as it is necessary to substitute artiflcial watering for rain and dew.
I made two long excursions from Baghdad ; one to the ruins of
Ctesiphon, the other to those of Babylon. The former ai-e eighteen,.
the latter sixty miles distant from Baghdad. On both occasions,.
Major Rawlinson provided me with good Arabian horses, and a
trusty servant.
I was obliged to make the journey fo Ctesiphon and back again
in one day, to avoid passing the night in the desert; and, indeed, had
to accomplish it between sunrise and sunset, as it is the custom in
Baghdad, as in all Turkish towns, to close the gates towards sunset,.
and to give up the keys to the governor. The gates are again opened
at sunrise. My considerate hostess would have persuaded me to take a,
quantity of provisions with me ; but my rule in travelling is to exclude
every kind of superfluity. Wherever I am certain to flnd people
living, I take no eatables with me. for I can content myself with
whatever they live upon ; if I do not relish their food, it is a sign
that I have not any real hunger, and I then fast until it becomes sa
great that any kind of dish is acceptable. I took nothing with ma

EXCUESION TO THE EUINS OF CTESIPHON. 201
but my leathern water flask, and even this was unnecessary, as
we frequently passed creeks of the Tigris, and sometimes the river
iteelf, although the greater part of the road lay through the desert.
About half-way, we crossed the river Dhyalah in a large boat.
On the other side of the stream, several families, who live in huts
on the bank, subsist by renting the ferry. I was so fortunate as to
obtein here some bread and butter-milk, with which I refres-hed
myself. The ruins of Ctesiphon may already be seen from this place,
although they are still nine miles distant. We reached them in
three hours and a half.
Ctesiphon formerly rose to be a very powerful city on the Tigris;
it succeeded Babylon and Selucia ; the Persian viceroys resided in
the summer at Ecbatania, in the winter at Ctesiphon. The present
remains consist only of detached fragments of the palace of the
Schah Chosroes. These are the colossal arched gate-porch, together
with the gate, a part of the principal front, and some side walls,,
aU of which ai-e so strong that it is probable that traveUers may
still continue to be gratified with a sight of them for centuries.
The arches of the Tauk-kosra gate is the highest of the kind that
is kno-wn; it measures ninety feet, and is therefore about fifteen feet
higher than the principal gate at Fattipore-Sikri, near Agra, which
is erroneously represented by many as being the highest. The wall
rises sixteen feet above the arch.
On the fa9ade of the palace, small niches, arches, piUars, &c., are
hewn out from the top to bottora ; the whole appears to be covered
with fine cement, in which the raost beautiful arabesques are stUl
to be seen. Opposite these ruins on the westem shore of the Tigris,
lie a few remains of the walls of Seleucia, the capital of Macedonia.
On both banks, extensive circles of low mounds are visible in
every direction; these all contain, at a slight depth, bricks and
rubbish.• Not far frora the ruins stands a plain mosque, which holds the
torab of Selaraam Pak. This raan was a friend of Mahoraet's, and is
on that account honoured as a saint. I was not allowed to enter the
mosque, and was obliged to content myself with looking in through
the open door. I saw only a tomb buUt of bricks, surrounded by
a wooden lattice, painted green.
I had already observed a nuraber of tents along the banks of the
Tigris on first reaching the ruins ; my curiosity induced me to visit
them, where I found everything the same as among the desert Arabs,.
except that the people were not so savage and rough ; I could hav&
passed both da^nd night araong them without apprehension. This
might be from my having been accustomed to such scenes.
A much more agreeable visit was before me. While I was,
amusing myself among the dirty Arabs, a Persian approached, who
pointed to a pretty tent which was pitched at a short distance from
us, and said a few words to me. My guide explained to rae that a
Persian prince lived in this tent, and that he had poHtely invited rae
by this messenger. I accepted the in-vitation with great pleasure,
and was received in a very friendly manner by the prince, who was,
named Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mfrza.

253 A woman's JOUENEY BOUND THE WOELD.
The prince was a handsome young man, and said that he under
stood French ; bnt we soon came to a stop with that, as his know
ledge of it did not extend beyond " Vous parlez Franqais^!" LuckUy,
one of his people had a better acquaintance with EngUsh, and so we
were able to carry on some conversation.
The interpreter explained to me that the prince resided in Baghdad,
but on account of the oppressive heat, he had taken up his residence
here for some time. He was seated upon a low divan under an open
tent, and his companions reclined upon carpete. 'To my sm-prise, he
had sufficient poUteness to offer me a seat by his side upon the divan.
Our conversation soon became very animated, and his astonishment
when I related to him my fravels increased with every word. WhUe
we were talking, a nargiUy of most singular beauty was placed before
me ; it was made of Hght-blue enamel on gold, ornamented with
pearls, turquoises, and precious stones. For poUteness^ sake, I took
a few puffs from it. Tea and coffee were also served, and afterwards
the prince invited me to dinner. A white cloth was spread upon the
ground, and fiat cakes of bread, instead of plates, laid upon it : an
exception was made for me, as I had a plate and knife and fork. The
dinner consisted of a number of dishes of meat, among whieh was a
whole lamb -with the head, which did appearvery inviting; besides these,
several pilaus, and a large roast fish. Between the eatables stood
bowls of curds and whey, and sherbet : in each bowl was a large spoon.
The lamb was carved by a servant with a knife and the hand ; he
distributed the parts among^^je gueste, placing a piece upon the cake
of bread before each one. Tney ate with thefr right hand. Most of
them tore off smaU raorsels of meat or flsh, dipped them in one of the
pUaus, kneaded them into a baU, and put them into their mouths.
Some, however, ate the fat dishes without pUau ; after each mouthful
they wiped off the fat, which ran over thefr fingers, on the bread.
They drank a great deal whUe eating, aU using the same spoons. At
the conclusion of the meal, the prince, in spite of the strict prohibi
tion of wine, ordered sorae to be brought (my presence serving as an
excuse). He then poured out a glass for me, and drank a couple
himselt^ — one to my health and one to his own.
When I told him that I intended to go to Persia, and in particular
to Teheran, he offered to give me a letter to his mother, who was at
court, and under whose protection I could be introduced there. He
wrote immediately, using his knee for want of a table, pressed his
signet ring upon the letter, and gave it to rae ; but told me laughingly
not to say anything to his mother about his ha-ving drank wine.
After meal time, 1 asked the prince whether he -iffould allow me
to pay a visit to his wife, — I had already leamed that one of his -wives
was with hira. My request was granted, and I was led immediately
into a buUding, near which had forrherly been a small mosque.
I was here received in a cool arched apartment by a remarkably
handsome young creature. She was the most beautiful of aU the
women I had ever yet seen in hareras. Her figure, of middUng pro
portions, was most exquisitely symmefrical ; her features were noble
and truly classical ; and her large eyes had a melancholy expression :
the poor thing was alone here, and had no society but an old female

EXCUESION TO THE EUINS OF BABYLON. 253
servant and a young gazelle. Her coraplexion, probably not quite
natural, was ot dazzling whiteness, and a delicate red tinted her
cheeks. The eyebrows only, in ray opinion, were very much deformed
by art. They were in the form of a dark-blue sti-etui, an inch wide,
which extended in two connected curves from one teraple to the other,
and gave the face a somewhat dark and very uncoraraon appearance.
The principal hafrs were not dyed; her hands and arras, however,
were slightly tetooed. She explained to rae that this shocking opera
tion was perforraed upon her when she was only a chUd, a custom
which is also practised by tiie Mahomedan women in Baghdad.
The dress of this beauty was like that of the women in the pasha's
harem, but instead of the sraall turban, she wore a white muslin cloth
lightly t-<visted round the head, which she could also draw over her
face as a veU.
Our conversation was not very Uvely, as the interpreter was not
allowed to follow me into this sanctum. We were therefore obliged
to content ourselves with making signs and looking at one another.
When I returned to the prince, I expressed to bim my wonder at
the rare beauty of his young -wife, and asked him what country was
the cradle of this true angel. He told me the north of Persia, and
assured me, at the same time, that his other wives, of whom he had
four in Baghdad and four in Teheran with his mother, very much
excelled this oue in beauty.
A'\'hen I would have taken my leave of the prince to retum home,
he proposed to rae ^at I should remain a Httle while longer and hear
some Persian music. Two minstrels presently appeared, one of whom
had a kind of mandoUn -with five strings ; the other was a singer.
The musician preluded very well, played European as well as Persian
melodies, and handled his insfrument with great faciUty ; the singer
executed roulades, and, unfortunately, his voice was neither cultivated
nor pure ; but he seldom gave false notes, and they both kept good
time. The Persian rausic and songs had considerable range of notes
and variations in the melody ; I had not heard anything like thera for
a long time.
I reached home safely before sunset, and did not feel very much
fatigued, either by the ride of thirty-six railes, the terrible heat, or
the wandering about on foot. Only two days afterwards, I set out on
my road to the ruins of the city of Babylon. The district in which
these ruins lie is called Isak- Arabia, and is the seat of the ancient
Babylonia and Chaldea.
I rode, the same evening, twenty mUes, as far as the Chan Assad.
The palms and fruit-trees graduaUy decreased in number, the culti
vated ground grew less and less, and the desert spread itself before
me, deadening aU pleasure and animation. Here and there grew
sorae low herbage scarcely sufficient for the frugal carael ; even this
ceases a few mUes before coraing to Assad, and frora thence to HiUa
the desert appeared uninterruptedly in its sad and uniforra nakedness.
We passed the place where the town of Borossippa formerly stood,
and where it is said that a pUlar of Nourhwan's palace is yet to be
seen ; but I could not discover it anywhere, although the whole
desert lay open before me and a bright sunset afforded abundance of

254 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD.
light. I therefore contented myself with the place, and did not, on
that account, remember -with less -enthusiasm the great Alexander,
here at the last scene of his actions, when he was warned not to enter
Babylon again. Instead of the pillar, I saw the ruins of one large and
several smaUer canals. The large one formerly united the Euphrates
-with the Tigris, and the whole served for irrigating the land.
Slst May. I had never seen such numerous herds of camels as I
did to-day; there might possibly have been more than 7,000 or 8,000.
As most of them were unloaded and carried only a few tents, or woraen
and children, it was probably the wandering of a tribe in search of a
more fruitful dwelling-place. Among this enormous number, I saw
only a few caraels that were completely white. These are very highly
prized by the Arabians ; indeed, almost honoured as superior beings.
When I first saw the immense herd of these long-legged animals
appearing in the distant horizon, they looked like groups of small
trees ; and I felt agreeably surprised to raeet with vegetation in this
endless -wilderness. But the wood, like that in Shakspere's Macbeth,
shortly advanced towards us, and the stems changed into legs and the
crowns into bodies.
I also observed a species of bfrd to-day to which I was a complete
stranger. It reserabled, in colour and size, the small green papagien,
called paroquets, except that its beak was rather less crooked and
thick. It lives, like the earth-mouse, in small holes in the ground.
I saw flocks of them at two of the most barren places in the desert,
where there was no trace of a blade of grass to be discovered, far and
wide. Towards 10 o'clock in the raorning, we halted for two hours only
at Chan Nasri, as I was resolved to reach HUla to-day. The heat
rose above 134° Fah. ; but a hot wind, that continually accompanied us,
was still more unbearable, and drove whole clouds of hot sand into the
face. We frequently passed half-ruined canals during the day.
The chans upon this road are among the best and the most secure
that I have ever raet with. From the exterior, they resemble small
fortresses ; a high gateway leads into a large court-yard, which is
surrounded on all sides by broad, handsome halls built with thick
brick walls. In the halls, there are niches arranged in rows ; each
one being large enough to serve three or four persons as a resting-
place. Before the niches, but also under the halls, are the places for
the cattle. In the court-yard, a terrace is also built flve feet high for
sleeping in the hot sumraer nights. There are Hkewise a number of
rings and poste for the cattle in the court, where they can be in the
open afr during the night.
These chans are adapted for whole caravans, and wiU contain as
many as 500 fravellers, together -with animals and baggage ; they
are erected by the governraent, but more frequently by wealthy
people, who hope by such means to procure a place in heaven. Ten
or twelve soldiers are appointed to each chan as a guard. The gates
are closed in the evenmg. Travellers do not pay anything for
staying at these places.
Some Arabian families generally Uve outside the chans, or even in
them, and they supply the place of host, and furnish travellers with

EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF BABYLON. 255
camel's milk, bread, coffee, and sometimes, also, -with camel's or goat's
flesh. I found the camel's milk rather disagreeable, but the flesh is so
good that I thought it had been cow-beef, and was greatly surprised
when ray guide told rae that it was not.
"When fravellers are furnished with a pasha's firraan (letter of
recommendation), they can procm-e one or more mounted soldiers (all
¦the soldiers at the chans have horses) to accorapany them through
dangerous places, and at tiraes of disturbances. I had such a firraan,
and made use of it at night.
In the aftemoon we approached the town of HiUa, which now
occupies a part of the space where Babylon formerly stood. BeautUul
woods of date-frees indicated fi-om afar the inhabited country, but
intercepted our view of the town.
Four mUes from HiUa we tumed off the road to the right, and
shortly found ourselves between enormous mounds of faUen walls and
heaps of bricks. The Arabs call these ruins MujelUbe. The largest
of these raounds of bricks and rubbish is 2,110 feet in cfrcumference,
and 141 feet in height.
Babjdon, as is known, was one of the greatest cities of the world.
With respect to its founder there are various opinions. Sorae say
Ninus, others Belus, others Semframis, &c. It is said that, at the
building of the city (about 2,000 years before the bfrth of Christ), two
mUUon of workmen, and all the architecte and artificers of the
then enormous Syrian empfre, were employed. The city walls are
described as having been 150 feet high, and twenty feet thick.
The city was defended by 250 towers; it was closed by a hundred
brazen gates, and its cfrcumference was sixty mUes. It was separated
into two parts by the Euphrates. On each bank stood a beautiful
palace, and the two were united by an artistic bridge, and even a tun
nel was constructed by the Queen Semframis. But the greatest
curiosities were the temples of Belus and the hanging gardens. The
tower of the temple was ornamented with three colossal figures, made
of pure gold, and representing gods. The hanging gardens (one of
the seven wonders of the world) are ascribed to Nebuchadnezar, who
is said to have buUt them at the -wish of his -wife Amytis.
Sis hundred and thfrty years before Christ, the Babylonian empfre
was at the highest point of its magnificence. At this time it was
conquered by the Chaldeans. It was afterwards subject in succes
sion to the Persians, Osmans, 'Tartars, and others, until the year
A. D. 1637, since which time it has remained under the Osman govern
ment. The temple of Belus or Baal was desfroyed by Xerxes, and
Alexander the Great woidd have restored it ; but as it would have
required 10,000 men for two raonths (others say two years) raerely
to remove the rubbish, he did not attempt it.
One of the palaces is described as having been the residence of
the liing, the other a castle. Unfortunately they are so fallen to
decay, that they afford no raeans of fomiing a satisfactory opinion
«ven to antiquarians. It is supposed, however, that the ruins called
MujelUbe are the remains of the castle. Another large heap of mins
is situated about a mile distant, caUed El Kasr. According to some.

25S A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
the temple of Baal stood here, according to others the royai paiace.
Massive fragmente of waUs and columns are stUl to be seen,
and in a hoUow a Hon in dark grey granite, of such a size that at
some distance I took it for an elephant. It is very much damaged,
and, to judge frora what remains, does not appear to have been the
work of a great artist.
The raortar is of exfraordinary hardness ; it is easier to break the
bricks theraselves, than to separate thera from it. The bricks of aU
the ruins are partiy yellow and partly red, a foot long, nearly as
broad, and half an inch thick.
In the ruins El Kasir stands a soUtery tree, which belongs to a
species of firs which is quite unknown in this district. The Arabs
caU it Athale, and consider it sacred. There are said to be several of
the same kind near Buschfr — ^they are there called Goz or Guz.
Many -writers see something very exfraordinary in this free ; in
deed they go so far as to consider it as a reUc of the hanging gardens,
and affirm that it gives out sad raelancholy tones when the wind
plays through its branches, &c. Everything, indeed, is possible
with God ; but that this half-stunted tree which is scarcely eighteen
feet high, and whose -wretched stem is at most only nine inches in dia
meter, is fuU 3,000 years old, appears to me rather too improbable !
The country round Babylon is said to have been formerly so flour
ishing and fruitful, that it was called the Paradise of Chaldea. This
productiveness ceased with the existence of the buUdings.
-A.S I had seen everything completely, I rode on as far as Hilla, on
the other side of the Euphrates. A most miserable bridge of forty-six
boate is here thrown across the river, which is four hundred and thdi-ty
feet broad. Planks and frunks of frees are laid fi-om one boat to
the other, which move up and down at every step ; there is no raiUng
at the side, and the space is so narrow that two riders can scarcely
pass. The views along the river are very charming; I found the
vegetation here stiU rich, and several mosques and handsome buUd
ings give life to the blooming landscape.
In Hilla I was received by a rich Arab. As the sun was already
very near setting, I was shown to a beautiful terrace instead of a
room. A deHcious pilau, roast lamb, and steamed vegetables were
sent to me for supper, with water and sour milk.
The terraces here were not sm-rounded by any walls, a circum
stance which was very agreeable to me, as it gave me an opportunity
of obser-ving the mode of life and customs of my neighbom-s.
In the court-yards I saw the women engaged in making bread, and
in the same way as at Bandr-Abas. The men and children meanwhUe
spread straw mats upon the terraces, and brought dishes with pilaus,
vegetables, or some other eatables. As soon as the bread was ready,
they began thefr meal. The women also seated themselves, and I
thought that the modem Arabs were sufficientiy advanced in civiliza
tion to give my sex thefr place at table. But to my regret I saw tiie
poor women, instead of helping themselves from the dishes, take straw
fans to keep off the flies from the heads of tiieir husbands. They may
have had thefr meal afterwards in the house, for I did not see tiiem
eat anything, either upon the terraces or in the courts. They all slept

HILLA. 257
upon the terraces. Bofli mon and women -wrapped themselves in
rugs, and neither the one nor the other took off any of thefr clothing.
1st June. I had ordered for tliis morning two fresh horses and
Arabs as a guard, that I might proceed -with some safety to tho
ruins of Bfrs Nimroud. These ruins are situated six mUes distant
from HiUa, in the desert or plain of Shinar, near the Euphrates, upon
a hUl 265 feet high, built of bricks, and consist of the fragments of a
waU twenty-eight feet long, on oue side thfrty feet high, and on the
other thfrty-five. The greater part of the bricks are covered with
inscriptions. Near this waU Ue several large blackish blocks whioh
might be taken for lava, and it is only on closer examination that they
ai-e found to be remains of walls. It is supposed that such a change
could only have been brought about by lightning.
People are not quite unanimous in thefr opinions with respect to
these ruins. Some affirm that they are the reraains of the Tower of
Babel, others that they are those of the Teraple of Baal.
There is an extensive view from the top of the hUl over the de
sert, the to-wn of HUla -with its charming palm-gardens, and over
innumerable raounds of rubbish and brick-work. Near these ruins
stands an uniraportant Mahomedan chapel, whieh is said to be on tho
same spot where, according to the Old Testament, the three youths
were cast into the furnace for refusing to worship idols.
In the afternoon I was again in HUla. I looked over the to-wn,
which is said to contain 26,000 inhabitants, and found it built Hke all
Oriental to-wns. Before the Kerbela gates is to be seen the little
mosque Esshems, which contains the remains of the prophet Joshua.
It completely resembles the sepulchre of the Queen Zobiede near
Baghdad. Towards evening the family of my obUging host, together with
some other women and children, paid me a visit. Thefr natural good
sense had deterred them from visiting me on the day of ray arrival,
when they knew I was fatigued by the long ride. I would wUlingly
have excused thefr -visit to-day also, for neither the rich nor poor Arabs
have much idea of cleanliness. They, moreover, would put the little
dfrty children into my arms or on my lap, and I did not know how
to reUeve myself of this pleasure. Many of them had Aleppo boUs,
and others sore eyes and skin diseases. After the women and chil
dren had left, my host came. He was, at least, clean in bis dress, and
conducted himself -with raore poHteness.
On the 2nd of July I left HiUa at sunrise, and went on, without stop
ping, to the Khan Scandaria (sixteen mUes), where I remained some
hours ; and then went the same day as far as Bir-Zanus, sixteen miles
further. About an hour after raidnight I again halted, and took a
soldier to accompany me. We had scarcely proceeded four or five
mUes frora the khan when we perceived a very suspicious noise. We
stopped, and the servant told me to be very quiet, so that cm- pre
sence might not be detected. The soldier dismounted, and creeped
rather than walked in the sand to reconnoifre the dangerous spot.
My exhaustion was so great that, although alone in this dark night
onthe terrible desert, I began to doze upon the horse, and did not
wake up tUl the soldier retumed with a cry of joy, and told us that

258 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
we had not fallen in -with a horde of robbers, but with a sheikh, who,
in company with his followers, were going to Baghdad. We set
spurs to our horses, hastened after the troop, and joined them.
The chief greeted me by passing his hand over his forehead towards
his breast ; and, as a sign of his good wUl, offered me his arms, a club
with an fron head, covered with a nuraber of spikes. Only a sheikh
is allowed to cari-y such a weapon.
I remained in the sheikh's company until sunrise, and then quick
ened my horse's pace, and at about 8 o'clock was again seated in
my charaber at Baghdad, after having, in the short space of three
days and a half, ridden 132 miles and walked about a great deal. The
distance from Baghdad to Hilla is considered to be sixty miles, and
from Hilla to Bfrs Nimroud six.
I had now seen everything in and around Baghdad, and was de
sfrous of starting on my journey towards Ispahan. Just at this time
the Persian prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza, sent rae a letter, inform
ing rae that he had received very bad news from his native country ;
the governor of Ispahan had been murdered, and the whole pro-vince
was in a state of revolt. It was therefore irapossible to enter Persia
, by this route. I decided in this case to go as far as Mosul, and there
deterraine ray further course according to circumstances.
Before concluding my account of Baghdad, I raust state that at
first I was greatly afraid of scorpipns, as 1 had heard that there were
great numbers there ; but I never saw one, either in the sardabs or on
the terraces, and during my stay of four weeks only found one in the
court.

CHAPTER XIX.
MOSUL -4XD NINEVEH.
Journey op the Caravan through the Desert — Arrival at Mosul — Cuiiiosittes —
Excursion to the Ruins of Nineveh and the Village of Nebbi Yunus — Second
Excursion to the Uuins op Nineveh— Tel-Nimroud — Arabian Horses—Depari-ure
FROM Mosul.
In order to travel fi-om Baghdad to Mosul safely, and without great
expense, it is necessary to join a caravan. I requested Herr Swoboda
to dfrect me to a trustworthy caravan guide. I was indeed advised
not to frust rayself alone among the Arabs, at least to take a
servant with me; but with my Hmited resources this would have
heen too expensive. Moreover, I was already pretty well acquainted
with the people, and knew from experience that they inight be
frusted. A caravan was to have left on the 14th of June, but the caravan
guides, like the ship captains, always delay sorae days, and so we
did not start until the 17th instead of the 14th.
The distence frora Baghdad to Mosul is 300 miles, which occupy
in travelHng frora twelve to fourteen days. Travellers rids either
horses or raules, and in the hot months travel during the night.
I had hired a mule for rayself and ray little baggage, for which I
paid the low price of fifteen krans (12s. 6d.), and had neither fodder
nor anything else to pro-vide.
Every one who intends proceeding with the caravan is obUged to
assemble before the city gate about 5 o'clock in the evening. Herr
Swoboda accompanied me there, and particularly recommended ine
to the care of the caravan guide, and promised him in my name a good
bachshish if he saved rae all the frouble he could during thejourney.
In this way I entered upon a fourteen days' journey through
deserts and steppes, a journey full of difficulties and dangers, without
any convenience, shelter, or protection. I travelled like the poorest
Arab, and was obHged, Hke him, to be content to bear the raost
buming sun, -with no food but bread and water, or, at the most, a
handful of dates, or some cucumbers, and with the hot ground for a bed.
I had, while in Baghdad, written out a small list of Arabian words,
so that I raight procure what was most necessary. Signs were easier
to me than words, and by the aid of both, I managed to get on very
weU. I became in time so used to the signs that, in places where I
I could make use of the language, I was obHged to take some pains
to prevent myself frora using ray hands at the sarae tirae.
WhUe I was taking leave of Herr Swoboda, my little portmanteau,
and a basket with bread and other trifles, had afready been put into
two sacks, which were hung over the back of the mule. My mantle
E

850 A WOMAX'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
and cushion formed a comfortable soft seat, and everything was in
readiness — only the mounting was rather difficult, as there was no
stirrup. Our caravan was small. It counted only twenty-six animals,
raost of whioh cai-ried raerchandise, and twelve Arabs, of whora flve
went on foot. A horse or mule carries from two to thfee and a half
hundredweight, according to the state of the road.
About 6 we started. Sorae mUes outeide the to'wn several other
traveUers joined us, chiefly pedlars -with loaded animals, so that pre
sently our party increased in numbers to sixty. But our nurabers
changed every evening, as some always remained behind, or others
joined us. We often had with us sorae shocking vagabonds, of whom
I was more afraid than robbers. It is, moreover, said not to be un
coraraon for thieves to join the caravan, for the purpose of carrying
on thefr depredations, if there should be an opportunity of doing so.
I should, on the whole, have no great faith in the protection which
such a caravan is capable of affording, as the people who travel in
this way are principaUy pedlars, pUgrims, and such Uke, who probably
have never in thefr Uves used a sword or fired a gun. A few dozen
weU-armed robbers would certainly get the better of a caravan of
even a hundred persons.
On the first night we rode ten hours, until we reached Jengitsehe.
The country around was flat and barren, uncultivated and uninhabitod.
Some few miles outside Baghdad cultivation appeared to be suddenly
cut off, and it was not untU we carae to Jengiteohe that we saw again
palms and stubble flelds, showing that human industry is capable of
producing something everywhere.
Travelling vrith caravans is very fatiguing : although a walking
pace is never exceeded, theyare on the road from nine to twelve hours
without halting. When traveUing at night the proper rest is lost, and
in the day it is scarcely possible to get any sleep, exposed in the open
afr to the excessive heat, and the annoyances of flies and raosquitoes.
18th June. In Jengiteche we raet with a chan, but it was by no-
means equal in appearance and cleanliness to that on the road to
Babylon ; ite chief advantage was being situated near the Tigris.
"The chan was surrounded by a small -village, to which I proceeded
for the purpose of satisfying my hunger. I went frora hut to hut,
and at last fortunately succeeded in obtaining sorae milk and three
eggs. I laid the eggs in the hot ashes and covered them over, fiUed
my leathern flask from the Tigris, and thus loaded returned proudly
to the chan. The eggs I ate directly, but saved the milk for the
evening. After this meal, procured with such difficulty, I certainly
felt happier, and more contented than many who had dined in the most
sumptuous manner.
During my search through the viUage, I noticed, from the num
ber of ruined houses and hute, that it seemed to have been of some
extent formerly. Here, also, the last plague had carried off the
greater part of the inhabitants ; for, at the present time, there were
only a few very poor families.
I here saw a very peculiar mode of making butter. The cream,
was put into a leathern bottle, and shaken about on the ground until

JOUKNDY OF TIIE aVU.WAN THROUGH TIIE DESERT. I'lil
the better had formed. When made, it was put into another bottle
filled with water. It was as white as snow, and I should have taken
it for lard if I had not seen it made.
We did not start this evenmg before 10 o'clock, and then rode
eleven hours without halting, to Uesi. The country here was less
barren than that between Baghdad and Jcngitschfe. Wo did not,
indeed, see any villages on the road ; but small groups of palms, and
the barking of dogs, led us to conclude that there were some very
near. At sun-rise we were gratifled by the sight of a low range of
mbuntains, and the monotony of the plain was here and there broken
at intervals, by small rows of hilla.
19th Jime. Yesterday I was not quite satisfied with the chan at
Jengitsehe ; but I should have been very thankful for a far worse one to
day, that we might have found any degree of shtlter from the pitUess
heat of the sun ; instead, we were obliged to make our resting-
place in a field of stubble, far removed from human habitations. The
caravan guide endeavoured to give me some little shade by laying a
small cover over a couple of poles stuck into the ground ; but the
place was so sraall, and the artificial tent so weak, that I was com
peUed to sit quietly in one position, as the sUghtest movement would
have upset it. How I en-vicd the missionaries and scientific men,
who undertalte their laborious journeys furnished with horses, tents,
pro-visions, and servants. When I wished, shortly afterwards, to
take some refreshments, I had notlung but lukewarm water, bread so
hard that I was obliged to sop it in water, to be able to eat it, and a
cucumber without salt or vinegar! However, I did not lose my
courage and endm-ance, or regret, even for a moment, that I had ex
posed myself to these hardships.
We set out again about 8 o'clock in the evening, and halted about
4 in the morning at Deli-Abas. The low range of mountains still
remained at our side. Frora DeH-.'Vbas wo crossed the river Hassel
by a bridge built over it.
' 20th June. We found a chan here ; but it was so decayed that
we were obHged to encamp outside, as there is danger of snakes and
scorpions in such ruins. A number of dfrty Arab tents lay near the
chan. The desire for something more than bread and cucumber, or
old, half-rotten dates, overcame my disgust, and I crept into several
of these dwellings. The people ofi'ered me buttermilk and bread.
I noticed several hens running about the tents with their young,
and eagerly looking for food. I would gladly have bought one, but
as I was not disposed to kiU and prepare it myself, I was obliged
to be contented -with the bread and buttermilk.
Some plants grow in this neighbourhood which put me in mind
of my native counfry — the wild fennel. At home I scarcely thought
them worth a glance, while here they were a source of extreme
gratification. I ara not ashamed to say, that at the sight of these
flowers the tears came into my eyes, and I leant over them and
kissed them as I would a dear friend.
We started again to-day, as early as 5 in the evening, as we
had now the most dangerous stage of the journey before us, and
were desfrous of passing it before nightfall. The uniformly - flat
E 2

863 A WOMANS JOUENEY EOUND THE WOPLD.
sandy desert in some degree altered in character. Hard gravel
rattled under the hoofs of the animals ; mounds, and sfrata of rock
alternated vrith rising groimd. Many of the former were projecting
from the ground in thefr natural position, others had been carried
down by fioods, or piled over each other. If this sfrip had not
amounted to more than 500 or 600 feet, I should have taken it to be
the former bed of a river ; but as it was, it more resembled the ground
left by the retuming of the sea. In many places saline substances
were deposited, whose deUcate crystals refiected the light in aU
dfrections. This strip of ground, which is about flve miles long, is dangerous,
because the hills and rocks serve as a favourable ambush for robbers.
Our drivers constantly urged the poor aniraals on. 'They were obliged
to travel here over hills and rocks quicker than across the raost con-
yenient plains. We passed through in safety before darkness carae on,
and then proceeded more leisurely on our jom-ney.
21st June. Towards 1 in the morning, we came up -with the town
Karatappa, of which, however, we saw only the walls. A mUe beyond
this we halted in some stubble flelds. The extensive deserte and
plains end here, and we entered upon a more cultivated and hUly
country. On the 22nd of June, we halted in the neighbourhood of the town
Kiiferi. Nothing favourable can be said of any of the Turkish to-wns, as they
so much resemble each other in wretchedness, that it is a pleasure not to
be compeUed to enter them. The streets are dfrty, the houses buUt of
mud or unburnt bricks, the places of worship unimportant, raiserable
stalls and coarse goods constitute the bazaars, and the people, dirty
and disgusting, are of a rather brown complexion. The women
increase their natural ugUness, by dyeing thefr hafr and nails reddish
brown -with henna, and by tattooing thefr hands and arras. Even at
twenty-five years old, they appear quite faded.
On the 23rd of June, we halted not far from the to-wn of Dus, and
took up our resting-place for the day.
In this place, I was struck by the low enfrances of the houses ;
they were scarcely three feet high, so that the people were obUged to
crawl rather than walk into them.
On the 25th of June, we came to Dang, where I saw a monument
which resembled that of Queen Zobeide in Baghdad. I could not
learn what great or holy man was buried under it.
25th June. At 4 this raorning we carae to the place where our
caravan guide lived, a village about a raUe frora Kerku. His house
was situated, with several others, in a large dfrty court-yard, which
was surrounded by a wall with only one enfrance. This court-yard
resembled a regular encampment : aU the inhabitants slept there ;
and, besides these, there was no want of mules, horses, and asses.
Our aniraals iraraediately went to thefr stalls, and frod so near to
the sleepers, that I was quite anxious for thefr safety; but the
animals are cautious, and the people know that, and remain perfectly
quiet. My Arab had been absent three weeks, and now returned only for

AN ARAB VILLAGE. 353
a very short time ; and yet none of his family came out to greet him,
except an old woman. Even with her, whora I supposed to be his
mother, he exchanged no kind of welcome. She merely hobbled about
here and there, but gave no help, and might as well have remained
where she was lying, as the others.
The houses of the Arabs consist of a single, lofty, spacious apart
ment, separated into three parts by two partition walls, which do not
extend quite across to the front wall. Each of these compartments
is about thfrty feet in length by nine in breadtii, and serves as a
dwelling for a family. The Hght fell through the common door- way
and two holes, which were made in the upper part of the front wall.
A place was set apart for me in one of these compartments, where I
could pass the day.
My attention was first dfrected to the nature of the relationships
between the several members of the family. At first this was very
difficult, as it was only towards the very young children that any
kind of attachment or love was sho-wn. They appeared to be a
coraraon property. At last, however, I succeeded in ascertaining
that three related famUies lived in the house — the patriarch, a
married son, and a married daughter.
The patriarch was a handsome, powerful old man, sixty years of
age, and the father of my guide, which I had learnt before, as he was
one of our fraveUing party; he was a terrible scold, and wrangled
about every trifie ; the son seldom contradicted him, and gave way to
all that his father wished. The caravan animals belonged, in
common, to both, and were driven by themselves, and by a grandson
fifteen years old, and sorae servants. When we had reached the house,
the old raan did not attend to the aniraals rauch, but took his ease
and gave his orders. It was easy to see that he was the head of the
family. The first impression of the Arab character is that it is cold and
reserved ; I never saw either husband and wife, or father and
daughter, exchange a friendly word; they said nothing more than
was positively necessary. iThey show far more feeling towards
children. They allow them to shout and make as rauch noise as they
Uke, no one vexes or contradicts them, and every misconduct is over
looked. But as soon as a child is grown up, it becomes his duty to
put up -with the infirmities of his parents, which he does with respect
and patience.
¦To my great astonishment, I heard the children call their
mothers mama or n5,na, their fathers baba, and their grandmothers
ete or eti.
The women lie lazily about during the whole day, and only in the
evening exert themselves to make bread. I thought their dress
particularly awkward and inconvenient. The sleeves of their shirts
were so wide that they stuck out half a yard from the arrns ; the
sleeves of the kaftan were still larger. Whenever they do any work,
they are obliged to wind them round their arms, or tie them in a
knot behind. Of course they are always coming undone, and ciiusing
delay and jtoppage of their work. In addition to this, the good folks
are not rauch addicted to cleanliness, and raake use of their slee\-es for

iil A WOMAIJ S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
blo-wing thefr noses on, as weU as for -wiping thefr spoons and plates.
Their head coverings are not less inconvenient: they use first a large
cloth, twice folded ; over this two others are wound, and a fourth
is tlirown over the whole.
Unfortunately, we stayed here two days. I had a great deal to
undergo the first day : aU the women of the place flocked round me
to stare at the stranger. TTiey flrst commenced examining my
clothes, then wanted to take the turban off my head, and were at
last so troublesome, that it was only by fcrce that I eould get any
rest. I seized one of them sharply by the arm, and tumed her
out of the door so quickly, that she was overcome before she knew
what I was going to do. I signifled to the others that I would
serve them the same. Perhaps they thought rao stronger than I
was, for they retfred immediately.
I then drew a circle round my place and forbade them to cross
it, an injunction they scrupulously attended to.
I had now only to deal with the wife of my guide. She laid
siege to me the whole day, coming as near to me as possible, and
teasing me to give her some of my things. I gave her a few
trifles, for I had not rauch with me, and she then wanted every
thing. Fortunately her husband came o-ut of the house just then;
I called him and complained of his wife, and at the same time
threatened to leave his house, and seek shelter somewhere else, weU
knowing that the Arabs consider this a great disgrace. He imrae
diately ordered her harshly out, and I at last had peace. I always
succeeded in carrying out my own wUl. I found that energy and
boldness have a weight -with all people, whether Arabs, Persians,
Bedouins, or others.
Towards evening I saw, to my great deUght, a cauldron of mutton
set on the flre. For eight days I had eaten nothing but bread,
cucumber, and sume dates ; and, therefore, had a great desfre for a
hot and more nutritious meal. But my appetite was greatly di
minished when I saw thefr style of cookery. The old woman (my
guide's mother) threw several handsful of small grain, and a large
quantity of onions, into a pan full of water to soften. In about
half an hour she put her dfrty hands into the water, and mixed the
whole together, now and then taking a mouthful, and, after chewing
it, spittmg it back again into the pan. She then took a dfrty
rog, and strained off the juice, which she poured over the flesh in
tiie pot.
I had flrmly made up my raind not to touch this food ; but when
it was ready it gave out such an agreeable odour, and my hunger
was so great, that 1 broke my resolution, and remembered how many
times I had eaten of food the preparation of which was not a whit
cleaner. What was so bad in the present instance was that I had
&een the whole process.
The broth was of a bluish black in colour, and with a rather
strongly acid taste — both the result of the berries. But it agreed
with me very well, and 1 felt as strong and well as if I had undergone
no hardships during ray journey from Baghdad.
1 hoped soon to have had a similar dainty meal, but the Arab

JOUENEY OF THE CARAVAN THROUGH THE DESERT. 265
does not Uve so extravagantly ; I was obUged to remain satisfied
¦with bread and some cucumbers, without salt, oU, or -vinegar.
-.26th June. We left the -viUaure and passed Kerku. At sunrise, we
ascended a smaU hiU, from the summit of which I was astonished
bv a beautiful prospect : a majestic lofty chain of mountains extended
along an enormous vaUe}--, and formed the boundary between Cur-
distan and Mesopotamia.
In this vaUey there were the most beautiful flowers, maUows,
chrysanthemums, and thistly plante. Among the latter, there was
one which frequently occurs in Germany, but not in such richness
and magnificence. In many places these thisties cover large spaces of
ground. The country people cut them down, and burn them instead
of wood, which is here a great luxury, as there are no trees. We saw,
to-day, some herds of gazelles, which ran leaping past us.
On the 27th of June we made our encampment near the miserable
littie town Attum-Kobri. Before reaching it, we crossed the river
Sab (called by the natives Altum-Su, golden water), by two old
Roman bridges. I saw several similar bridges in Syria. In both
instances they were in good preservation, and will apparently long
remain as evidences of the Roman power. Their wide and lofty
arches rested upon massive pUlars, and the whole was constructed of
large square blocks of sf,one ; the ascent of bridges of this kind is so
steep that the animals are obUged to scramble up Uke cate.
On the 28th of June we reached the town of ^rbU (formerly
Arbela), where, to my great chagrin, we remained until the evening
of the foUowing day. This Httle town, which is fortified, is situated
upon an isolated hiil in the centre of a vaUey. We encamped, for
tunately, near some house-^ outeide the town, at the foot of the hiU.
I found a hut, which wa-< tenanted by some men, two donkeys, and a
number of fowls. The mistress, for a small acknowledgment, pro
vided me a Uttle place, which at least sheltered me from the burning
heat of the sun. Beyond that, I had not the slightest convenience.
As this hut, in compai-i.*on with the others, wa-s a complete palace,
the whole of the neighbours were constantly collected here. From
early in the moi-ning tUl late in the evening, when it is the custom to
recline upon the terraces, or before the huts, there was always a large
party ; one came to gossip, others brouglit meal with them, and
kneaded their bread meanwhile, so as not to miss the conversation.
In the background, the children were being washed and freed from
vermin, the asses were braying, and the fowls covering everything
with dirt. These, altOL' ether, made the stay in this place more
unbearable than even hun^-er and thirst. Still, I must say, to the
credit of these people, that tbey behaved with the greatest propriety
towards me, although not only women, but a great number of men of
the poorest and lowest class, were coming backwards and forwards
continually ; even the women here left me in quiet.
In the evening, some mutton was cooked in a vessel which just
before was full of dirty hnen steeped in water. This was emptied
out, and, without cleaning the por, it was used to prepare the food
ia the same mann»-r as at the house of my guide.
On the SOth of June we h-alted at the vilia-e of Sab. We here

S66 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
crossed the great river Sab by means of rafts, the mode of constructing
whioh is certainly very ancient. They consist of leathern bottles,
fiUed with air, fastened together with poles, and covered with planks,
reeds, and rushes. Our raft had twenty-eight wind-bags, was seven
feet broad, nearly as long, and carried two horse-loads and six men.
As our caravan numbered thirty-two loaded animals, the crossing of
the river occupied half a day. Four or five of the animals were tied
together and drawn over by a man seated across an air-bag. The
weaker animals, such as the donkeys, had a bag half filled with air
tied on their backs.
The night of the 30th of June, the last of our journey, was one of
the most wearisome : we travelled eleven hours. About half-way,
we came to the river Hasar, called Gaumil by the Greeks, and raade
remarkable by the passage of Alexander the Great. It was broad,
but not deep, and we therefore rode through. The chain of mountains
stUl continued at the side at some considerable distance, and here and
there rose low, sterile hills, or head-lands. The total absence of trees
in this part of Mesopotamia is striking: during the last five days I
did not see a single one. It is, therefore, easy to imagine that there
are many people here who have never seen such a thing. There
were spaces of twenty railes in extent, upon which not a single
branch was to be seen. However, it is fortunate that there is no
scarcity of water ; every day we carae once or twice to rivers of
various sizes.
The town of Mosul did not become visible until we were within
about five miles. It is situated upon a slight elevation in a very
extensive valley, on the west bank pf the Tigris, which is already
much narrower here than near Baghdad. We arrived about 7 o'clock
in the raorning.
I was fresh and active, although during these fifteen days I had
only twice had a hot meal — the ink-coloured larab soup at Kerkii and
Ervil ; although I had been obliged to reraain day and night in the
same clothes, and had not even an opportunity of once changing my
linen, not to say anything of the terrific heat, the continual riding,
and other fatigues.
I first di-^mounted at the caravansary, and then procured a guide
to the Englissh Vice-consul, Mr. Bassam, who had already prepared ai
roora for me, as he had been previously informed of my coining by a
letter from Major Rawlinson, at Baghdad.
I first visited the town, which, however, does not present any
very reraarkable features. It is surrounded by fortified works, and
contains 25,000 inhabitants, among which there are scarcely twelve
Europeans. The bazaars are extensive, but not in the least degree
handsome; between them lie several coffee-stalls and some chans.
1 found the entrances to all the houses narrow, low, and furnished
with strong gates. These gates are reHcs of former tiraes, when the
people were always in danger frora the attacks of enemies.. In the
interiors, there are very beautiful court-yards, and lofty, airy rooms,
with handsome entrances and bow-windows. The doors and window-
frames, the stairs and walls of the ground-fioor rooms, are generally
made of marble; though the marble which is used for these pur-

NEBBI YUNUS AND TEL-NIMEOUD. 387
poses is not very fine, yet it stiU looks better than brick walls. The
quarry lies close to the town.
Here also the hot part of the day is passed in the sardabs, The
heat is raost terrible in the month of July, when the burning simoom
not unfrequently sweeps over the town. During my short stay at
Mosul, several people died very suddenly ; these deaths -were ascribed
to the heat. Even the sardabs do not shelter people from continual
perspiration, as the teraperature rises as high as 97° 25' Fah.
"The birds also sufl'er much from the heat : they open thefr beaks
wide, and stretch thefr wings out far frora their bodies.
The inhabitants suffer severely in their eyes ; but the AUepo boils
are not so common as in Baghdad, and strangers are not subject to
them. I found the heat very oppressive, but in other respects was very
weU, especiaUy as regards my appetite : I believe that I could have
eaten every hour of the day. Probably t'nis was in consequence of
the hard diet which I had heen obliged to endure on my journey.
The principal thing worth seeing at Mosul is the palace, about
half a mUe from the town. It consists of several buUdings and gar
dens, surrounded with walls which it is possible to see over, as they
lie lower than the town. It presents a very good appearance from a
distance, but loses on nearer approach. In the gardens stand beautiful
groups of trees, whieh are the more valuable as they are the only ones
in the whole neighbourhood.
During my stay at M6sul, a large nuraber of Turkish troops
marched through. The Pasha rode out a short distance to receive
them, and then returned to the town at the head of the foot regi
mente. The cavalry remained behind, and encaraped in tents along
the banks of the Tigris. I found these troops incoraparably better
clothed and equipped than those which I had seen, in 1842, at Con
stantinople. Their uniform consisted of white trousers, blue cloth
spencers, with red facings, good shoes, and fez.
As soon as I was in some degree recovered from the fatigue of my
late journey, I requested my amiable host to furnish rae with a servant
who should conduct rae to the ruins of Nineveh ; but instead of a ser-
-rant, the sister of Mrs. Rassam and a Mr. Ross accompanied me.
One raorning we visited the nearest ruins on the other side of the
Tigris, at the village Nebbi Yunus opposite the town ; and, on another
day, those called Tel-Nimroud, which are situated at a greater dis
tance, about eighteen miles down the river.
According to Strabo, Nineveh was still larger than Babylon. He
represents it as having been the largest city in the world. The jour
ney round it occupied three days. The walls were a hundred feet
high, broad enough for three chariots abreast, and defended by fifteen
hundred towers. The same authority states that the Assyrian king
Ninus was the founder, about 2,200 years before the birth of Chiist.
The whole is now covered with earth, and it is only when the
peasants are ploughing, that fragraents of brick or raarble are here
and there turned up. Long ranges of raounds, more or less high,
extending over the iraraeasurable plain on the left bank of the Tigris,
are known to cover the remains of this town.

868 A WOMAN S JOURNEY EOUND THE WORLD.
In the year 1846, the Trustees of the British Museum sent the
emdite antiquarian, Mr. Layard, to undertake the excavations. It
was the first atterapt that had ever been made, and was very suc
cessful.* Several excavations were made in the hills near Nebbi Yunus, and
apartments were soon reached whose walls were covered -with marble
slabs wrought in relief. These represented kings with crowns and
jewels, deities with large wings, warriors with arms and shields, the
storming of fortifications, triumphal processions, and hunting parties,
&c. They were unfortunately deficient in correct drawing, propor
tions, or perspective ; the mounds and fortifications were scarcely
three times as high as the besiegers ; the flelds reached to the clouds ;
the trees and lotus flowers could scarcely be distinguished from each
other ; and the heads of men and animals were all alike, and only in
proflle. On many of the walls were foimd those wedge-shaped cha
racters, or letters, which constitute what are called cuneiform inscrip
tions, and are found only on Persian and Babylonian monuments.
Among all the rooms and apartraents which were brought to light,
there was only one in wluch the waUs were covered with flne cement
and painted ; but, notwithstanding the greatest care, it was not
possible to preserve this wall. When it came in contact with the air,
the cement cracked and fell off. The marble also is ipartially con
verted into Ume, or otherwise injured, in consequence of the terrible
conflagration which laid the city in ruins. The bricks fall to pieces
when they are dug out.
From the nuraber of handsome apartments, the abundance of mar
ble, and the paintings and inscriptions upon it, the inference is drawn
that this spot contains the ruins of a royal palace.
A coniiderable quantitj' of marble slabs, with reliefs and cunei
form inscriptions, were carefully detached from the walls and sent to
England. When I was at Bassora, a whole cargo of similar remains
lay near the Tigris, and among others a sphynx.
On our return we visited the viUage Nebbi Yunus, which is situated
on a slight eminence near the ruins. It is remarkable only on account
of a smaU mosque, which contains the ashes of the prophet Jonas, and
to whioh thousands of devotees make annual pilgrimages.
During this excursion we passed a number of fields, in which the
people were engaged in separating the corn from the straw in a very
peculiar manner. For this purpose, a machine was employed, con
sisting of two wooden tubs, between which was fastened a roller,
with from eight to twelve long, broad, and blunt knives or hatchets.
This was drawn by two horses or oxen over the bundles of corn laid
on the ground, untU the whole of the corn was separated from the
straw. It was then thrown up into the air by means of shovels, so
that the chaff might be separated from the grain by the wind
We finally visited the sulphur springs, whieh He close to the walls
* Tliii) is an eiTor : M. Botta made the first attempt to excavate the Ninevite remains
at Khorsabad. Mr. Layard had, moreover, commenced his excavations before he received
the countenance of the British Museum authorities. See " Nineveh — ^the Buried City of
, the East," one of the volumes of the "National Illustrated Librai-y," for the rectiiicatioa
of this and other errors in Bladame Pfeilfer's account.

THE EXCAVATIONS AT TEL-NIMROUD. 2G9
ef M6sul. They are not warm, but appear to contain a lai-gc quantity
of sulphur, as the smell is apparent at a considerable distance. These
springs rise in natural basins, which are surrounded by walls eight
feet in height. Every one is aUowed to bathe there without any
chai-ge, for people are not so niggardly and sparing of nature's gifts
as ill Europe. Certain hours are set apart for women, and others for
the men.
On the following day we rode to the Mosque Elkosoh, near the
town. Noah's son Shem has found a resting-place here. We were
not allowed to enter this raosque, but certainly did not lose rauch by
that, as aU these raonuraents are ahke, and are not remarkable either
for architecture or ornament.
The Nineveh excavations are carried on most extensively at Tel-
Nimroud, a district where the raounds of earth are the most numerous.
Tel-Nimroud is situated about eighteen miles from Mosul down the
Tigris. We took our seats one moonlight evening upon a raft, and glided
down between the duU banks of the Tigris. After seven hours, we
landed, about 1 o'clock in the morning, at a poor village, bearing the
high sounding name Nimroud. Some of the inhabitants, who were
sleeping before their huts, made us a fire and some coffee, and we then
laid down till daybreak upon some rugs we had brought with us.
At daybreak we took horses (of which there are plenty in every
vUlage), and rode to the excavations, about a mile frora Niraroud.
We found here a great nuraber of places wluch had been dug up, or
rather, uncovered mounds of earth, but not, as at Herculaneum, whole
houses, streets, squares, indeed, half a town. Nothing beyond sepa
rate rooms has been brought to light here, or at the utraost, three or
four adjoining ones, the exterior walls of which are not, in any case,
separated frora the earth, and have neither windows nor doors visible.
The objects whioh have been discovered exactiy resemble those in
the neighbourhood of Mosul, but occur in greater numbers. Besides
these, I saw several idols and sphynxes in stone. The forraer repre
sented animals with human heads ; their size was gigantic — about
that of an elephant. Four of these statues have been found, two of
which were, however, considerably damaged. The others were not
indeed in very good preservation, althongh sufficiently so to show
that the sculptors did not particularly excel in their profession. The
sphynxes were small, and had unfortunately suffered more daraage
than the bulls.
Shortly before my arrival, an obelisk of inconsiderable height, a
small and uninjured sphynx, together with other remains, had been
sent to England.
The excavations near Tel-Nimroud have been discontinued about
a year, and Mr. Layard has .been recalled to London. An order was
afterwards given to cover in the places which had been dug open, as
the wandering Arabs had begun to do a great deal of injury. When
I visited the spot, some places were already covered in, but the greater
part remained open.
The excavations near Nebbi Yunus are stUl being carried on. An
annual grant is made by the British government for this purpose.

arro A woman s journey round' the woeld.
The EngHsh resident at Baghdad, Major Rawlinson, had made
himself perfectly master of the cuneiform character. He reads the
inscriptions -with ease, and many of the translations are the resulte
of his labours.
We returned to Mosul on horseback in five hours and a half.
The power of endurance of the Arabian horses is almost incredible.
They were allowed only a quarter of an hour's rest in Mosul, where
they had nothing but water, and then travelled the eighteen miles
back again during the hottest part of the day. Mr. Ross told me
that even this was not equal to the work done by the post horses :
the stations for these are from forty-eight to seventy-two miles distant
from each other. It is possible to travel from Mosul by Tokat to Con
stantinople in tins way. The best Arabian horses are found round
Baghdad and Mosul.
An agent of the Queen of Spain had just purchased a stud of
twelve magnificent horses (eight mares and four staUions), the dearest
of which had cost on the spot £150 sterUng. They stood in Mr.
Rassam's stable. Thefr handsorae, long, slender heads, thefr sparkUng
eyes, sUght bodies, and their sraall delicately forraed feet, would have
filled any adrafrer of horses -vrith delight.
I could now venture, not, indeed, without considerable risk, although
with the possibiUty of some insult, upon the desfred journey into
Persia. I sought a caravan to Tebris. Unfortunately, I could not find
one which went dfrect there, and I was, therefore, compeUed to raake
this journey in separate stages, a cfrcurastenoe which was so much
the worse for me, as I was told that I should not find any Em-opeans
on the way.
Nevertheless I took the chance. Mr. Rassara arranged for rae the
journey as far as Ravandus, and furnished rae -with a letter of recom
mendation to one of the natives there. I wrote out a small lexicon
of Arabian and Persian words, and took leave of this hospitable
faraily at sunset, on the Sth of July. I started on this journey with
some feelings of anxiety, and scarcely dared to hope for a fortunate
termination. On that account I sent my papers and manuscripte
from here to Europe, so that in case I was robbed or raurdered my
diary would at least come into the hands of my sons.*
• The manuscripts of the journey through Hindostan as far as Mfisul miscarried for
more than a year and a half. I gave them up as lost. This was the cause ot the delay
in the publication of my " Joumey round the World."

CHAPTER XX.
PERSIA.
JOVRNET OP THE CaRAVAN TO RaVANDUS — ARRIVAL AT AND StAT IN EavANDUS— A
Kt'RDisH Family — Continuation op the Joornev — Sauh-Bulak — Oromia — .American
Missionaries — ^Kutschie — Three Genkrous Robbers — Persian Chans and English
BVNQALO-SVS — ABBTVAL AT TeBRIS.
On the 8th of July the caravan guide called for rae in the evening.
His appearance was so unfavom-able that 1 should scarcely have ven
tured to travel a mile with him had I not been assured that he was a
man weU known in the place. His dress consisted of rags and tatters,
and his countenance resembled that of a robber. Ali, that was his
name, told me that the traveUers aud goods had afready gone on and
were encaraped in the chan near Nebbi-Yunus, where they were to pass
the night. The jom-ney was to be commenced before sunrise. I
found three raen and some pack-horses; the raen (Kurds) were no
better in appearance than AU, so that I could not promise myself
much gratification frora thefr society. I took up my quarters for the
¦night in the dfrty com-t-yard of the chan, but was too much fi-ightened
to sleep weU.
In the raorning, to my astonishment, there were no indications of
starting. I asked AU what was the cause of- this, and received as
answer that the traveUers were not aU assembled yet, and that, as
soon as they were, we should proceed immediately. In the expectation
that this might soon happen, 1 dared not leave the miserable shelter to
retum to Mosul, from which we were only a mUe distant. The whole
day was spent in waiting ; these people did not come until evening.
There were five of them : one, who appeared to be a wealthy man,
with his two servants, was returning frora a pUgriraage. We started
at last about 10 o'clock at night. After travelling for four hours we
crossed several ranges of hills, which form the boundaries of Mesopo
tamia and Kurdistan. We passed several vUlages, and reached
Secani on the morning of the 10th of July. AH did not halt at the
vUlage which Ues on the pretty river Kasfr, but on the other side of
the river near a couple of deserted, half-ruined huts. I hastened
dfrectly into one of the best to make sure of a good place, where the
sun did not come through the sieve-like roof, which I fortunately
found but the pUgrim, who hobbled in directly after me, was incUned
to dispute its possession. I threw my mantle down, and seating
myself upon it, did not move from the place, well knowing that a
Mussulman never uses force towards a woman, not even towards
a Christian one. And so it turned out ; he left me in my place and
went grumbling away. One of the pedlars behaved hiraself in a very
different raanner : when he saw that I had nothing for ray raeal but

273 A WOMAN S JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
dry bread, while he had cucumbers and sweet melons, he gave me
a cucumber and a melon, for which he would not take any raoney.
The pilgrim also ate nothing else, although he had only to send one
of his servants to the village to procure either fowls or eggs, &c.
The frugality of these people is really astonishing.
About 6 in the evening we again proceeded on our journey, and
for the first three hours went continually up-hill. The ground was
waste and covered -with boulders, which were fuU of shaUow holes,
and resembled old lava.
Towards 11 at night we entered an extensive and beautiful
valley, upon which the moon threw a briUiant Ught. We purposed
halting here, and not continuing our joumey further during the night,
as our caravan was smaU, and Kurdistan bears a very bad name.
The road led over fields of stubble near to stacks of corn. Suddenly
half a dozen powerful fellows spmng out- from behind, armed with
stout cudgels, and seizing our horses' reins, raised thefr sticks, and
shouted at us terribly. I felt certain that we had fallen into the
hands of a band of robbers, and was glad to think that I had left my
freasures whioh I had collected at Babylon and Nineveh, together
with my papers, at Mosul ; ray other effects raight have been easily
replaced. Duiing the time this was passing in my mind, one of our
party had sprung frora his horse and seized one of the raen by the
breast, when he held a loaded pistol before his face and threatened
to shoot him. This had an, immediate effect; the waylay ers relin
quished thefr hold, and soon entered into a peaceful conversation
with us ; and at last, indeed, showed us a good place to encamp, for
which, however, they requested a smaU bachshish, which was given
to them by a general coUection. From me, as belonging to the
female sex, they requfred nothing. We passed the night here, though
not -without keeping guard.
llth July. About 4 o'clock we were again upon the road, and
rode six hours, when we eame to the village of SelUc. We passed
thri-agh several -villages, which, however, had a very miserable
appearance. The huts were buUt of reeds and straw ; the sUghtest
gust of wind would have been suflicient to have blown them over.
The dress of the people approaches in character to the Oriental ; all
were very scantily, dfrtily, and raggedly clothed.
Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-ti-ee and another
large tree. In this country trees are rare. , The mountains surround
ing us were naked and barren, and in the valleys I'here grew at most
some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and chrysanthemuras.
The noble pilgrira took upon hiraself to point out my place under
the large free, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him
no reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. AH, who was far
better than he looked, brought me a jug of butterrailk, and altogether
to-day passed off tolerably pleasantly.
Several woraen frora the village visited me and begged for money,
but I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be
attacked by all if I gave to one. I once gave a child a little ring,
and not only the other children, but thefr mothers and grandmothers,
crowded round me. It cost me some frouble to keep them from forci-

joukney of tiie CARAVAN 10 RAVANDUS. 373
bly emptying my pockets. Since that time I was more cautious.
One of the women hero changed her begging manner into one so
threatening, that I was heartUy glad at not being alone with her.
We left tlus village at 4 in the afternoon. The pUgrim
separated from us, and the coi-avan then consisted of only five men.
In about au hour and a half we reached an eminence from which wo
obtained a view of an extensive and well cultivated hilly country.
The land in Kurdistan is without comparison better than m Mesopo
tamia, and the country is consequently better inhabited ; we were,
therefore continually passing through different vUlages.
Before nightfall we entered a valley which was distinguished for
fresh rice plantations, beautiful shrubs, and green reeds; a brisk
sfream murmured at om- side, the heat of the day was now succeeded
by the evening shadows, aud, at this moment we had nothing to
-wish for. This good fortune, however, did not last long ; one of the
pedlars was suddenly taken so Ul that we. were obUged to stop. Ho
nearly feU off his mule, and remained motionless. We covered him
-with rugs, but beyond that we could not do anything for him, as we
had neither medicines nor other remedies with us. Fortunately, he
fell asleep after a few hours, and we squatted down on the ground
and followed his example.
12th July. This morning our patient was well again ; a doubly
fortunate cfrcumstance, as we had to pass a terribly rocky and stony
road. We were obHged to scramble up and down the mountainous
side of a vaUey, as the valley itself was completely occupied by the
irrogalar course of the river Badin, whieh wound in a serpentine
dfrection from side to side. Pomegranates and oleanders grew in
the vaUey, wUd vines twined themselves round the shrubs and trees,
and larches covered the slopes of the hills.
After a difficult and dangerous ride of six hours, we came to a
ford of the river Badin. Our raft turned out to be so small that it
would carry only two men, and very Uttle baggage ; and we were, in
consequence, four hours in crossing. We stayed for the night not
far from the ferry of Vakani.
13th July, 'fhe road still continued bad ; we had to ascend an
iraense pile of raountains. Far and wide, nothilig was to be seen but
rock and stone, although, to my astonishment, I observed that in
many places the stones had been gathered on oue side, and every
Uttle spot of earth made use of. A few dwarf ash-trees stood here
and there. The whole has the character of the country near
Trieste. Although there were no vUlages on the road, there appeared to be
some near, for on raany of the heights I observed large burial-places,
especially on those which are overshadowed by ash-trees. It is the
custom throughout Kurdistan to estabHsh the burial-places on high
situations. f
We did not travel more than seven hours to-day, and halted in
the valley of Haliian. This Uttle valley has an uncommonly
romantic situation ; it is surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains,
which rise with a gentle slope on one side, and on the other are steep
and precipitous. The whole vaUey was covered with a rich vegetor-

274 A WOMAN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
tion ; the stubble-fields were interspersed with tobacco and rice plan
tations, and meadows. Poplar-trees surrounded the village, which
was pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill, and a stream of crystal
line clearness rushed forcibly out of a mountain chasra, and flowed
calmly and still through this deUghtful valley. Towards evening,
numerous herds of cows, sheep, and goats came from the mountain-
slopes towards the village.
We encamped at some distance from the village ; I could not pro
cure any relish for my dry bread, and had no other bed than the
hard ground of a stubble-field. Nevertheless I should include this
evening among the most agreeable ; the scenery round compensated
me sufficiently for the want of every other enjoyment.
14tli July. Ali allowed us to rest only half the night; at 2
o'clock we were again raounted. A few hundred paces from our
resting-place was the entrance of a stupendous mountain-pass. The
space between the sides of the rocks afforded only sufficient room for
the streara and a narrow pathway. Fortunately the raoon shone out
brilliantly, otherwise it would have been scarcely possible for the
most practised animal to ascend the narrow and extremely dangerous
road between the fallen masses of rock and roUing stones. Our hardy
animals scrarabled like charaois along, over the edges of the steep
precipices, and carried us with safety past the terrible abyss, at the
bottora of which the stream leapt, with a frightful roaring, from rock
to rock. This night-scene was so terrible and impressive that even
my uncultivated companions were involuntarily sUent — mute, and
noiseless, we went on our way, nothing breaking the death-like
stillness but the rattling steps of our animals.
We had proceeded about an hour in this way, when the moon was
suddenly obscured ; thick clouds gathered round from aU sides, and
the darkness soon became so great that we could scarcely see a few
steps before us. The foremost raan continually sfruck fire, so as to
light up the path somewhat by the sparks. But this did not help us
much, the animals began to slip and stumble. We were compelled to
halt, and stood quiet and motionless, one behind the other, as if sud
denly changed to stone by magic. Life returned again with day-
hreak, and we spurred our animals briskly forwards.
We were in an indescribably beautiful circle of mountains ; at our
side lay high cliffs ; before and behind, hills and mountains erowded
over each other, and in the far distance an enormous peak, covered
with snow, completed the romantic picture. This raountain-pass is
caUed Ali-Bag. For three hours and a half we eontinued going up
hiU, without intermission.
A short distance before reaching the plateau, we observed, in
several places, sraall sjjots of blood, of which nobody at first took
much notice, as they raight have been caused by a horse or mule that
had injured itself. But shortly we came to a place which was
entirely covered with large blood-spots. This sight filled us with
great horror ; we looked round anxiously for the cause of these marks
and perceived two human bodies far down below. One hung scarcely
a hundred feet down on the declivity of the rock, the other had
rolled further on, and was half-buried under a raass of rock. We

AEEIVAL AT EAVANDUS. 875
hastenett from this horrible scene as quickly as wo could; it was
several days before I could free myself from the recollection of it.
AU the stones on the plateau were full of holes, as if other stones
had been stuck in. This appearance ceased as we went further up.
In tiie valley, at the other side of the plateau, there were vines,
which, however, did not rise far above the gi-ound, as they were not
supported in any way.
Our road continued on through the mountains. We frequently
descended, but again had to cross several heights, and, finally, came
out upon a smaU elevated plain, which, on both sides, was bounded
by steep decUvities. A vUlage of huts, made of branches, was situated
on this plain, and on the summits of two neighbouring rocks forti
fied works were erected.
My traveUing corapanions remained behind here ; but Ali went
with rae to the town of Ravandus, which only becomes visible from
this side at a very short distance.
The situation and -view of this town is most charming; not
indeed from its beauty, for it is not more remarkable in that respect
than other Turkish towns, but on account of its pecuUarity. It is
situated upon a steep, isolated cone, surrounded by mountains. The
houses are built in the form of terraces, one above another, with flat
roofs, which are covered with earth, staraped down hard, so as to
resemble narrow streete, for which they serve to the upper houses,
and it is frequently difficult to tell which is street and which roof.
On many of the terraces, walls, formed of the branches of trees, are
erected, behind which the people sleep. Lower down, the hiU is sur
rounded by a fortified waU.
When I first caught hold of this eagle's nest, I feared that I had
not much probabUity of finding any conveniences for travellers, and
•every step further confirraed this opinion. Ravandus was one of the
most miserable towns I ever saw. Ali conducted me over a beg
garly bazaar to a dfrty court, which I took f»r a stable, but was the
chan ; and, after I had dismounted, took me into a dark recess, in
which the merchant, to whom I had a letter, sat upon the ground
before his stall. This raerchant was the most considerable of his
class in Ravandus. Mr. Mansur, that was the merchant's name, read
over the letter which I had brought, for full a quarter of an hour,
although it only consisted of a few Unes, and then greeted me with a
repeated salaam, whieh raeans " you are welcorae."
The good raan raust have concluded that I had not tasted any food
to-day, for he very hospitably ordered breakfast imraediately, con
sisting of bread, sheep's cheese, and raelons. These were eaten
all together. My hunger was so great that I found this plan excel
lent. I ate -vrithout ceasing. The conversation, on the contrary, was
not so successful ; ray host did not understand any Em-opean language,
nor I any Asiatic language. We made use of signs, and I took pains
to make him understand that I was desirous of going on further as
soon as possible. He proraised to do his utmost for me, and also ex
plained that he would see to me during my stay ; he was not raarried,
and therefore could not receive rae into his own house, but would
take rae to one of his relations. s

275 A, woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WORLD.
After breakfast was ended he took me tea house resembUng
those of the Arabs at Kerkii, except that the court-yard was very
small, and completely fiUed with rubbish and puddles. Under the
door-way, four ugly women with half-ragged clothes, were seated
upon a dirty rug, playing with some Uttle children. I was obliged
to sit do-wn with them, and undergo the usual curious examination
and staring. For some time I put up with it, but then left this
charming society, and looked about for a place where I could arrange
my toilette a httle. I had not changed my clothes for six days,
ha-ving been exposed, at the same time, to a heat which was far-
greater than that under the line. I found a dirty and smutty room,
which, in addition to the disgust it excited, made me fear the pre
sence of vermin and scorpions ; of the latter I had a particular dread.
I thought at first that they were to be found in every place, as I had
read in many descriptions of travels that they were innumerable
in these countries. My fear lessened afterwards, as I did not raeet
"with any, even in the dfrtiest places ; in ruins, court-yards, or sar
dabs. Altogether I only saw two during my whole journey, but
I suffered a great deal from other vermin, which are only to be
removed by burning the clothes and Hnen.
I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room, when one
woman after the other came in ; the women were foUowed by the
children, and then by several neighbours, who had heard of the
arrival of an Inglesi; 1 was worse off here than under the gateway.
At last, one of the woraen luckily thought of offering rae a bath,
and I accepted the proposal with great joy. Hot water was prepared,
and they made a sign for me to follow them, which I did, and found'
myself in the sheep-stall, which, perhaps, had not been cleaned for
years, or indeed as long as it had stood. In this place they pushed two
stones together, upon which I was to stand, and in the presence of
the whole company, who foUowed rae Uke my shadow, allow myself
to be bathed with water. I made signs to them to go out, as I
wished to perform this office myself; they did indeed leave me, but
as misfortune had it, the stall had no door, and they were aU able to
look in just the sarae.
I passed four days among these people, the day time in dark
recesses, the evenings and nights upon the terraces. I was obliged,,
like my hostess constantly to squat down on the ground, and when
I wanted to write anything I had to make use of my knees instead
of a tabic. Every day they told me there was a caravan going away
to-morrow. Alas ! they said so only to quiet me, they saw, perhaps,
how disagreeable tho stay was to me. The women lounged about
the whole day sleeping or chattering, playing with, or scolding the
children. They preferred going about in dfrty rags to mending and
washing them, and they aUowed thefr chUdren to tyranize over them
completely. When the latter wanted anything and did not get it, they threw
theraselves on the ground, struck about with their hands and feet,
howling and shriekmg until they obtained what they desired.
They had no fixed meal-times during the day, but the women and
chUdren were constantly eating bread, cucumbers, melons and butter-

stay in ravandus. 277
milk. In the evenings they bathed very much, and every one washed
thefr hands, faces, and feet, which ceremony was frequently repeated
three or fom- tunes before prayers ; but there was a great want of real
devotion : in the middle of the prayers they chattered right and
left. However, there is not much difference -with us.
Notwithstanding aU theso glaring and gross defecte I found these
people very amiable : they wilUngly permitted themselves to be
taught, admitted their faUings, and always aUowed me to be right
when I said or explained anything to them. For exaraple, the Httle
Ascha, a gfrl seven yeare of age was very infractable. If she was
denied anything she threw herself on the ground, crying miserably,
roUing.about in the filth and dfrt, and smearing with her du-ty hands
the bread, melons, &c. I endeavoured to make the chUd conscious of
her misbehaviour, and succeeded beyond aU expectation, I, in fact.
imitated her. The chUd looked at rae astounded, upon which I asked
if it had pleased her. She perceived the offensiveness of her conduct,
and I did not often need to iraitate her. It was just the same -with
regard to cleanHness. She imraediately washed herself carefuUy, and
then carae running joyfuUy to rae showing her hands and face.
During the few days I was here the child became so fond of me that
she would not leave my side, and sought in every way to make friends
-with me.
I was not less fortunate -with the women ; I pointed out thefr
tom clothes, brought needles, and thread, rnd taught them how to
sew and mend. They were pleased vrith this, and I had in a short
time a whole sewing school round me.
How much good might be done here by any one who knew the
language and had the inclination, only the parents must be taught at
the same time as the children.
What a flne fleld is here open to the missionaries if they would
accustom themselves to Uve among these people, and -vrith kindness,
and patience to counteract thefr failings ! As it is, however, they
devote at the utmost only a few hours in the day to thera, and raake
thefr converts corae to thera, instead of visiting them in thefr own
houses. The women and gfrls in the Asiatic countries receive no education,
those in the towns have Uttle or no employment, and are left to
themselves during the whole day. The men go at sunrise to the
bazaars, where they have their stalls or workshops, the bigger boys
go to school or accompany thefr fathers, and neither retum home be
fore sunset. There the husband expects to find the carpete spread
out on the terraces, the supper ready, and the nargiUy lighted, he
then plays a Httle with the young children, who, liowever, dm-ing
meal-time are obliged to keep away with thefr mothers. The women
in the -vUlages have more Uberty and amusement, as they generally
take part in the house keeping. It is said that the people in the
counfry here are, as among ourselves, more moral than in the towns.
The dress wom by the richer Kurds is the Oriental, that of the
comraon people differs slightly from it. The men wear wide linen frou
sers, over them a shfrt reaching to the hips, and fastened round the waist
by a girdle. They frequently draw on, over the shfrt, a jacket -with-
S2

278 K woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
out sleeves, raade of coarse bro-wn woollen stuff, which is properly cut
into sfrips of a hand's breath, and joined togetiier by broad searas.
Others wear frousers of brown stuff instead of white linen, they are,
however, exfremely ugly, as they are really nothing more than a
vride shapeless sack vrith two holes, through which the feet are put.
The coverings for the feet are either enoi-mous shoes of coarsely woven
white sheeps' wool, ornamented vrith three tassels, or short, very
widc boots of red or yeUow leather, reaching only just above the
ankle and armed with large plates an inch thick. The head-dress is
a turban. 'The woraen wear long -wide frousers, blue shfrts, which frequently
reach half a yard over the feet, and are kept up by means of a girdle ;
a large blue mantle hangs from the back of the neck, reaching do-wn
to the calves. They wear the same kind of plated boots as the men.
On thefr heads they wear either black kerchiefe wound in the manner
of a tm-ban, or a red fez, the top of which is very broad, and covered
with sUver coins arranged in the form of a cross. A coloured sUk
kerchief is wound round the fez, and a -wreath made of short black
sUk fringe is fastened on the top. This wreath looks Uke a handsome
rich fur-frimming, and is so arranged that it forras a coronet, leaving
the forehead exposed. The hafr falls in nuraerous thin fresses over the
shoulders, and a heavy silver chain hangs down behind fi-om the turban.
It is impossible to imagine a head dress that looks better than this.
Neither women or gfrls cover thefr faces, and I saw here several
very beautiful gfrls with truly noble features. The colour of the
skin is rather bro-wn, the eyebrows and lashes were black, and the
hair dyed reddish-brown with henna. Among the lower orders
small nose rings are soraetiraes worn here.
Mr. Mansur furnished me with a very good table in the morning,
I had buttermUk, bread, cucumber, and on one occasion dates roasted
in butter, which, however, was not very palatable ; in the evening
mutton and rice, or u, qnodlibet of rice, barley, maize, cucumber,
onions and minced meat. I found it all very good as I was healthy,
and had a good appetite. The water and buttermilk are taken very
cold, and a piece of ice is always put into thera. Ice is to be met
with in abundance not only in the towns, but also in evei-y \iUage.
It is brought from the mountains in the neighbourhood, the people
eat large pieces of it -with great relish.
In spite of the endeavours of Mr. Mansur and his relations to
render my stay beai-able, or perhaps, indeed, pleasant, according to
thefr ideas, I was agreeably surprised when AU carae one morning
bringing the news that he had met -with a smaU freight to Sauh-
Bulak (seventy miles) a place which laid on my road. That same
evening I went to the caravansary, and the next morning, 18th July,
Avas on the road before sunrise.
Mr. Mansm- was to the last very hospitable. He not only gave
mo a letter to a Persian living in Sauh-Bulak, but also pro-rided me
with bread for the journey, some raelons, cucumbers, and a small
bottle of som- mUk. The latter was pai-ticularly acceptable to me,
and I would ad-rise every ti-aveller to remember 'this nourishing and
refreshing drink.

JOUft,t«fc-i' TO SAUH-BULAK. 2"!t
Sour milk is put into a small bag of thick linen, the watery part
filters through, and the solid pai-t can be taken out with a spoon, and
mixed vdth water as desfred. In the hot season, indeed, it dries into
cheese on the fourth or fifth day, but this also tastes very well, and
in four or five days you come to places where the supply may be re
newed. On the first day we passed continually through narrow valleys
between lofty mountains. The roads were exceedingly bad, and we
were frequently obliged to cross over high mountains to pass from one
valley into another. These stony valleys were cultivated as rauch as
was possible. We halted at Tschoraai-ichen.
19th July. The road and countiy was the sarae as those of yes
terday, except that we had more hilly ground to ascend. We very
nearly reached the height of the first snow region.
Towards evening, w-e came to Raid, a miserable place -with a half-
ruined citadel. Scarcely had we encamped, when several well-armed
soldiers, headed by an officer, made thek- appearance. They spoke for
some time with AU, and at last the officer introduced himself to me,
took his place at my side, showed me a written paper, and made
several signs. As far as I could understand, he meant to say that I
was now in Persia, and that he wanted to see my passport. However,
I did not -vrish to take it out of my portmanteau in the presence of the
whole of the -vUlagers, who were afready assembled round rae, and,
therefore, explained to him that I did not understand him. With this
assm-ance he left rae, saying to AU : " What shall I do with her ?
She does not understand rae, and may go on further."* I do not think
that I should have been so leniently dealt with in any European
state !
In alraost every vUlage, a great part of the people imraediately
assembled round rae. The reader may imagine what a crowd had
gathered together during this discussion. To be continually scared at
in this way was one of the greatest inconveniences of my jourhey.
Soraetiraes I quite lost ray patience, when the woraen and chUdren
pressed round me, handling ray clothes and head. Although quite
alone araong them, I gave thera several sUght blows with my riding-
whip. This always had the desfred effect ; the people either went away
altogether or drew back in a ring. But here, a boy about sixteen was
incUned to punish ray boldness. As usual, I went to the river to fiU
my leathern flask, to wash my hands and face, and bathe my feet. Tins
boy sUpped after me, picked up a stone, and threatened to throw it
at rae. I dare not, of course, e-vince any fear ; and I went, therefore,
quite composedly into the river. The stone came flying, although I
observed, by the way in which it was thrown, that he was raore
desirous of frightening than hitting me ; it was not thrown with
force, and feU several feet away. After throwing a second and third,
he went away ; perhaps because he saw that I did not heed him.
20th July. Immediately outside Raid, we had to ascend a rather
considerable mountain by a bad and dangerous road, and then came
out upon an extensive elevated plain. We left the high mountains
• I had picked up enough of the language between here and M(5sul to understand this
much.

¦280 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
further behind, the headlands were covered vrith short grass, but
there was again a great deficiency of trees. We met great numbers
of herds of goats and sheep. The latter were very large, vrith thick
wool and fat taUs ; the wool is said to be particularly good and fine.
My apprehensions on this joumey were not quite groundless, as
it was seldom that a day passed in undisturbed quiet. To-day, for
instance, a cfrcumstance occurred which frightened me not a Uttle :
our caravan consisted of six men and fourteen pack animals ; we
were quietly pursuing our way, when suddenly a froop of moimted
men came dashing do-wn upon us at full gallop. There were seven
well-armed, and five unarmed. The former carried lances, sabres,
daggers, knives, pistols, and shields; they were dressed Uke the
coramon people, vrith the exception of the turban, which was wound
round with a simple Persian shawl. I thought they had been
robbers. They stopped and surrounded us, and then inquired where
we came from, where we were going to, and what kind of goods we
carried ? When they had received an explanation, they allowed us to
go on. At first I could not understand the meaning of the proceeding
at all ; but, as we were stopped several times in the course of the day
in a similar manner, I concluded that these men were soldiers on
duty. We reraained at Coromaduda over night.
21st July. The roads and prospects very similar to those of yester
day. We were again stopped by a troop of soldiers, and this time the
affair seemed Ukely to be of raore consequence. AU must have raade
sorae incorrect stateraents. They took possession of both of his, pack
animals, threw their loads down on the ground, and one of the soldiers
was ordered to lead thera away. Poor AH begged and entreated most
pitifully. He pointed to me, and said that everything belonged to
me, and requested that they should have some compassion -with me as a
helpless woman. The soldier turned to me and asked if it was frue.
I did not think it advisable to give rayself out as thefr owner, and
therefore appeared not to understand him, but assumed an afr- of great
concern and trouble. AU, indeed, began to cry. Our position would
have been most desperate ; for, what could we have done with the
goods in this barren uninhabited district without om- animals. At last,
however, the leader of the party relented, sent after the animals, and
retumed them to us.
Late in the evening, we reached the Uttle town of Sauh-Bulak.
As it was not fortified, we could stiU enter ; however, the chans and
bazaars were all closed, and we had much trouble to get the people of
one of the chans to receive us. It was very spacious and handsome ; in
the centre was a basin of water, and round it small merchants' stalls and
several niches for sleeping. The people — all men — were mostly retfred
to rest ; only a few reraained at thefr devotions. Their astonishment
may be iraagined when they saw a woman enter with a guide. It
was too late to give ray letter to-day, and I therefore seated rayself
composedly against the luggage, in the belief that I should have to
pass the hight so ; but a Persian carae to me and pointed out a niche
to sleep in, carried my luggage there, and, after a little whUe, brought
jao some bread and water. The kindness of this man was the more

SAUH-BULAK. 281
admfr-able, as it is kno-wn how much the Mahomedans hate the
Christians. May God reward him for iL I was ti-uly in want of
this refreshment.
22nd July. To-day I presented my letter, and the Persian mer
chant received me with a welcome. He conducted rae to a Christian
famUy, and promised to raake arrangeraents for the continuation of
my journey as soon as possible. In this instance, also, the conversa
tion was carried on raore by the means of signs than words.
There were twenty Christian famUies in this to-wn, who are under
the care of a French missionary and have a very pretty church. I
looked forward with pleasure to conversing again in a language -vrith
which I was famUiar, but learnt that the missionary was on a joumey,
so that I was not better off than at Ravandus, as the people with
whom I Hved spoke only Persian.
The man, whose ti-ade was that of a carpenter, had a -wife, six
chUdren, and an apprentice. They aU Uved in the same room, in
which they gave me a place with great readiness. The whole famUy
were uncommonly good and obUging towards me, were very open-
hearted, and if I bought fruit, eggs, or anything of the kind, and
offered thera any, they accepted it vrith great modesty. But it was
not only towards myself that they were so kind, but also towards
others ; no beggar went away frora their threshold unreUeved ; and
yet this fainUy was terrible, and raade ray stay a coraplete purgatory.
The mother, a very stupid scolding woman, bawled and beat her
chUdren the whole day. Ten minutes did not pass without her
dragging her children about by the hafr, or kicking and thumping
thera. The chUdren were not slow in retuming it ; and, besides that,
fought araong themselves ; so that I had not a moment's quiet in my
comer, and was not unfrequently in danger of coming in for ray share,
for they amused themselves by spitting and thro-wing large blocks of
wood at each other's heads. The eldest son several tiraes throttled
his mother in such a way that she became black and blue in the face.
I always endeavoured, indeed, to estabUsh peace ; but it was very
seldora that I succeeded, as I was unfortunately not sufficient raaster
of the language to make thera imderstand the impropriety of thefr
conduct. It was only in the evening, when the father returned, that there
was any order of peace; they dare not quarrel then, much less fight.
I never met -with such conduct among any people — even the poorest
or lowest classes of the so-called heathens or unbelievers ; I never saw
thefr chUdren atterapt to strike thefr parents. When I left Sauh-
Bulak, I -wrote a letter for the missionary, in whieh I dfrected his
attention to the failings of this famUy, and besought him to counteract
them, by teaching them that reUgion does not consist merely in prayers
and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church.
My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus. I daily
enfreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if
the joumey should be attended with some danger. He shook his
head and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that
if I fravelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded.
I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer.

283 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
I begged the merchant to hfre me a horse and a guide, and made up
my mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all!
dangers or other cfrcumstances. I knew that I should find American,
missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety about
proceeding on further.
The merchant carae on the following day, accompanied by a wild-
looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide. I was obliged,
in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay
four times as much ; but I was wilUng to accede to anything to bo
able to get away. The bargain was made, and the guide pledged
hiraself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in three-
days. I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained the-
other half until we came to our journey's end, so as to be able to flne
him in case he did not keep his agreement.
I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was con
cluded, and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars,
and walked about outside the town.
This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of hills.
Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never annoyed
out of doors. The bazaars are less beggarly than those at Ravandus,
the chan is large and comfortable. I found the appearance of the
common people very repulsive. TaU and strongly built, with marked
features, which were stUl more disfigured by an expression of wild
ness and ferocity, they all appeared to me Hke robbers or murderers.
In the evening I put ray pistols in proper order, and made up my
mind not to seU my life cheaply.
28th July. Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not
start until towards mid-day. I travelled on with my guide thi-ough
desolate roads between treeless hills, and frembled involuntarily when
any one met us. However, thank God, there were no adventures to ga
through. We had to fight indeed, but only with treraendous swarras
of large grasshoppers which flew up in some places in clouds. They
were about three inches long, and were furnished with large wings of
a red or blue colom-. All the plants and grass in the disfriet were
eaten away. I was told. that the natives catch these grasshoppers;
and dry and eat them. UnluckUy I never saw any such dish.
After a ride of seven hours we carae to a large fruitful and inha
bited valley. To-day's journey seeraed to promise a favourable termi
nation, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and fre
quently passed villages. Sorae peasants were still working here and
there in the fields, thefr appearance greatly amused me : they wore-
the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted -with
their ragged dress.
We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-
Jiir. If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal
of turtle. I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even
in the fields, and had only to pick thera up. But then to hunt for
wood, make a fire, and cook ! No ; I preferred eating a crust of bread
and a cucumber in quiet.
29th July. This morning we reached, in three hours, the rillage ot
Mahomed-Sohar. To my astonishment my driver raade prcparationsE

JOUENEY TO OEOMIA. 283
for stopping here. I m-god him to continue the journey, but he ex
plained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan, as
the raost dangerous part of the journey was now before us. At the
same tirae he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining stubble
fleld, and endeavoured to malvc rae understand that in a few hours a
caravan was going our way. The whole day passed, and the caravan
did not appear. I thought that ray guide was deceiving me ; and was
exceedingly frritated when, in the evening, he arranged my raantle on
tho ground for me to sleep. Itwas now necessary that I should make
a strenuous effort to show the fellow that I would not be freated Uke
a child, and remain here as long as he thought flt. Unfortunately I
could not scold him in words, but I picked up the mantle and threw
it at his feet, and explained to him tiiat I would keep the reraainder
of the fare if he did not bring rae to Oromia to-morrow on the thfrd
day. I then turned my back to him (one of the greatest sUghts),
seated rayself on the ground, and, resting ray head in ray hands, gave
rayself up to the raost melancholy reflections. What should I have
done here if my guide had left me, or had thought flt to reraain until
a caravan happened to pass by.
During ray dispute with the guide, sorae woraen had corae up
from the viUage. They brought me some milk and some hot food,
seated themselves by me, and inquired what I was so troubled about.
I endeavoured to explain the whole affair. They understood me and
took my part. They were vexed with ray guide, and endeavoured to
console rae. They did not stir frora rae, and pressed rae so heartily to
partake of thefr food, that I found myself compelled to eat some. It con
sisted of bread, eggs, butter, and water, which were boiled up together.
Notwithstanding my frouble, I enjoyed it very much. When I offered
the good people a frifle for this meal they -would not take it. They
seeraed gratified that I was raore at ease.
soth July. About 1 o'clock at night my guide began to stir him
self, saddled my horse, and caUed rae to raount. Still I was at a loss
to understand his proceedings, for I saw no signs of a caravan. Could
he mean to take his revenge on rae ? Why did he travel at night
through a country which he ought to have chosen day-time for ? I did
not understand enough Persian to be able to obtain an explanation, and
did not -wish to say anything more to the fellow about not keeping
his confract, so I was obliged to go — and I did go.
With great anxiety I mounted my horse and ordered my guide^
who was inclined to ride behind, to go on in front. I had no raind to,
be attacked from behind, and kept my hand constantly on my pistols.
I listened to every sound, watched every moveraent of my guide, even
the shadow of my own horse sometimes scared me ; however, I did not
turn back.
After a sharp ride of about half-an-hour, we came up with a large
caravan train, whioh was guarded by half a dozen weU-armed pea
sants. It really appeared that the place was very dangerous, and
that my guide had been acquainted with the passing of a caravan-
Nothing caused me raore surprise on this occasion, than the indolence
of these people. As they are aeeustoraed to travel in the night,
during the hot season, they also continue the custora at other tiraes^

284 A woman's JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
and pass through the most dangerous places, although the danger
would be much less during the day.
After some hours we came to the Lake OronUa, which henceforth
continued on our right side ; on the left lay barren hills, ravines and
mountains, extending for some mUes, forraing a raost dreaded place.
Moming brought us into another beautiful fruitful vaUey, studded
with -vUlages, the sight of whioh gave me courage to leave the
caravan, and hasten on.
The Lake Oromia, from which the town takes ite name, is more
than sixty mUes long, and in many places more than thfrty vride. It
appears closely surrounded by lofty mountains, althongh considerable
levels intervene. Ite water contains so rauch salt, that neither fish
nor moUusca can Uve in it. It is a second Dead Sea — it is said that
a huraan body cannot sink in it. Large patches of the shore are
covered -with thick, white saline incrustations, so that the people have
only to separate the salt they want frora the ground. Although the
Jake, and the country round it are very beautiful, they do not present
a yery attractive prospect, as the surface of the lake is not enlivened
by any boate.
Since I had left the sandy deserts round Baghdad, I had not seen
any camels, and thought that I should not see this animal again, as
I was fraveUing northwards. To my astonishment, we met several
frains of camels, and I learnt afterwards, that these animals were used
as beasts of burden by the Kurds, as well as the Arabs. This is a proof
that they are able to bear a colder cHmate ; for in winter the snow
drifte to a depth of several feet in the vaUeys. The camels in these
districts are somewhat more robust, their feet are thicker, thefr hafr
closer and longer, thefr necks longer, and not nearly so slender, and
thefr colour darker. I did not see any Hght-coloured ones.
The Kurds of the valleys employ beaste of burden for carrying
thefr crops, as weU as waggons, which are however very simple and
clumsy. The body is forraed of several long thin stems of frees
bound together ; the axles of shorter stems, witii disks of thick boai-d
for wheels, of which each waggon has generaUy only two. Four
oxen are yoked to these, each pafr being led by a guide, who sits very
oddly on the shaft between the yoke, -with his back towards them.
Late in the evening, we reached Oromia safely, after a hard ride
of more than sixteen hours. I had no letters to any of the mission
aries, and vrith the exception of Mr. Wright, they were aU absent.
They Hved with thefr -vrives and chUdren in the country. However,
Mr. Wright received me with frue Christian friendship, and after
many disagreeable days I again found comfort.
The first evening I laughed heartily when Mr. Wright told me
in what manner the servant had informed him of my arrival. As I
did not know enough of Persian to be able to tell the servant to
announce me, I merely pointed to the stafrs. He understood this,
and went up to his master, saying that there was a woman below
who could not speak any language. Afterwards I asked a servant
for a glass of water, in English ; he rushed up stafrs as if he had
been possessed, not, as I thought, to get what I wanted, but to teU
his master that I spoke EngHsh.

^'% flV

OEOMIA. 285
Mr. Wright acquainted the other missionaries of my presence,
and they were so good as to come and visit me. They also in-rited
me to spend a few days vrith them in the country, but I accepted
thefr friendly in-ritation for one day only, as I had already lost so
much time on the road. They all adrised me not to go any further
alone ; although they admitted that the most dangerous part of the
journey was past, and recoramended me to take -with me sorae armed
peasante when passing the mounteins near KutsohiS.
Mr. Wright was so good as to look out for a com-ageous and trusty
guide. I paid double fare, in order to reach Tebris in four, instead
of six days. In order to make the guide think that I was a poor
pUgrira, I gave Mr. Wright the half of the agreed price, and begged
him to pay it instead of myself, and also to say that he would be paid
the other half by Mr. Stevens, the English consul.
I made as good use as possible of the day which I passed at
Oromia. In the morning I visited the to-wn, and afterwards I -risited,
with Mrs. Wright, several rich and poor famiUes, in order to observe
thefr mode of Ijfe.
The to-wn contains 22,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by walls,
but not closed by gates ; it is possible to pass in and out at any hour
of the night. It is buUt like all Turkish towns, vrith this exception — ¦
that the sfreets are rather broad, and kept clean. Outeide the town
are numerous large fruit and vegetable gardens, whioh are surrounded
by very high walls ; pretty dwelling-houses stand in the cenfre of
the gardens.
'The women here go closely veUed. They cover over thefr heads
and breast vrith a white kerchief^ in which thick impenetrable net
work is inserted, at the places opposite the eyes.
In the houses of the poorer classes two or three faraiUes live under
one roof. They possess littie more than straw mats, blankets, pillows,
and a few cooking utensils, not to forget a large wooden box in which
the meal, thefr chief property, is kept. Here as everywhere else where
com is cultivated, bread is the principal food of the common people.
Every famUy bake twice daUy, moming and evening.
Many of the small houses have very pretty courts, which are
planted -with flowers, vines, and shrubs, and looked Uke gardens.
The dwellings of the wealthy are lofty, airy, and spacious ; the
reception rooms have a large number of windows, and are covered
-with carpete. I saw no divans, people always lie upon the carpets.
As we made the visite -without being inrited, we found the women
in very plain coloured cotton dresses, of course, made in thefr o-wn
fashion. In the aftemoon I rode with the missionaries to thefr large coun
try-house, which is situated about six mUes from the to-wn, on sorae
low hUls. The vaUey through which we rode was very large, and
altogether well cultivated and deUghtful. Although it is said to Ue
about 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, cotton, castor-oil plante,
wines, tobacco, and every kind of fruit grow here as in South Ger
many. The castor-oU plant, indeed, is not more than four feet high,
and the cotton but one foot ; they produce, however, rather abund
antly. Several vUlages are half hid in orchards. I came into this

286 A WOMAN S JOURNEY EOUNL THE WOELD.
country at a fortunate time : there were beautiful peaches, apricots,
apples, grapes, &c., true fruits of my native coimtry, of which I had
long been deprived.
The house of the missionary society is most charmingly situated ;
it comraands a view of the whole vaUey, the town, the low range of
hUls, and the raountains. The house itself is large, and furnished
with every possible convenience, so that I thought I was in the coun
try-house of wealthy private people, and not under the roof of simple
disciples of Christ. There were four women here, and a whole ti-oop
of children, jgreat and smaU. I passed several very pleasant hours
among them, and was heartily sorry that I was obUged to take leave
of them at 9 in the evening.
Several native girls were also introduced to me who were educated
by the wives of the missionaries. They spoke and -wrote a Httle Eng
lish, and were well acquainted with geography. I caimot avoid, on
this occasion, making some observations with regard to the mission
aries, whose mode of life and labours I had frequent opportunities of
observing dming my journey. I met with missionaries in Persia,
China, and India, and everywhere found them Uving in a very dif
ferent manner to what I had imagined.
In my opinion the missionaries were almost, if not complete mar
tyrs, and I thought that they were so absorbed with zeal and the desire
to convert the heathen, that, Uke the disciples of Christ, quite forget
ting their comforts and necessaries, they dwelt with them under one
roof, and ate frora one dish, &c. Alas ! these were pictures and repre
sentations which I had gathered out of books; in reality the case
was very different. They lead the same kind of Ufe as the wealthy :
they have handsorae dwellings, which are fitted up with luxurious fur
niture, and every convenience. They recUne upon easy divans, while
thefr wives preside at the tea-table, and the children attack the cakes
and sweetraeats heartUy ; indeed thefr position is pleasanter and freer
from care than that of most people ; thefr occupation is not very
laborious, and their income is certain, whatever may be the national or
poUtical condition of thefr counfry.
In places where several missionaries reside meetings are held three
or four times a week. These meetings or asserabUes are supposed to
be for the transaction of business ; but are not much other than
sofrees, at which the ladies and childi-en make their appearance in
elegant full dress. One missionary receives his friends at breakfast,
a second at dinner, the thfrd at tea, several equipages and a number
of servants stand in the court-yai-d.
Business is also attended to : the gentleman generally retfre for
half an hour or so ; but the greater part of the time is passed in mere
social arauseraent.
I do not think that it can be easy to gain the confidence of the
natives in this way. Thefr foreign dress, and elegant mode of life, make
the people feel too sfrongly the difference of rank, and inspire them with
fear and reserve rather than confidence and love. They do not so readily
venture to look up to people of wealth or rank, and the missionaries-
have consequently to exert themselves for some time until this timidity
is overcome. The missionaries say that it is necessary to make this ap-

AMEEICAN MISSION.VRIES. 287
peai-ancc, m order to create an irapression and command respect ; but
I think that respect may be inspfred by noble conduct, and that vfrtuo
wiU atfract men more than external splendour.
IMany of the missionaries believe that they might effect a great
deal by preaching and issuing religious tracts in the native language
in the towns and vUlages. They give the most attractive report of
the multitude of people who crowd to hear their preaching and
receive their fracts, and it might reasonably be thought that, accord
ing to thefr representations, at least half of the.ir hearers would
becorae couverte to Christianity ; but unfortunately the Hstening and
receiving tracts is as good as no proof at all. Would not Chinese,
Indian, or Persian priests have just as great froops of hearers if they
appeared in their respective national costurae in England or France,
and preached in the language of those countries ? "Would not people
flock round thera ? would they not receive the tracts given out gratis,
even if they could not read thera ?
I have made the minutest inqufries in all places respecting the
results of missions, and have always heard that a baptism is one of
the greatest rarities. The few Christians in India, who here and
there forra villages of twenty or thirty families, have resulted princi
paUy from orphan chUdren, who had been adopted and brought up by
the missionaries; but even these requfre to be supplied with work, and
comfortably attended to, in order to prevent them from falHng back
into thefr superstitions.
Preaching and tracts are insufficient to make reHgious doctrine
understandable, or to shake the superstitions which have been imbibed
in infancy. Missionaries must live among the people as fathers or
friends, labour with thera^ — in short, share their trials and pleasures, and
draw thera towards them by an exemplary and unpretending mode of
life, and gradually instruct them in a way they are capable of under
standing. They ought not to be married to Europeans for the follow
ing reasons : — European gfrls who are educated for missionaries fre
quently make this their choice only that they be provided for as soon
as possible. If a young European wife has any children, if she is
weak or deUcate, they are then unable to attend any longer to their
calling, and requfres a change of afr, or even a joumey to Europe.
The children also are weak, and must be taken there, at latest in their
seventh year. Thefr father accompanies them, and makes use of this
pretext to return to Europe for some time. If it is not possible to
undertake this journey, tney go to some mountainous country, where
it is cooler, or he takes his wife and family to visit a Mela.* At the
same time, it must be remembered that these journeys are not made in
a very simple manner: as mine has been, for instance ; the missionary
surrounds himself with numerous conveniencies ; he has palanquins
-carried by men, pack-horses, or camels, with tents, beds, culinary, and
table utensils ; servants and raaids in sufficient nuraber. And who
pays for aU this ? Frequently poor credulous souls in Europe and
North America, who often deny themselves the necessaries of Ufe, that
* Mela is the name of the Indian religious festivals at wliich thousands of people
assemble. The missionaries frequently travel hundi-eds of miles to them in order to
preach to the people.

288 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WOELD,
their little savings may be squandered in this way in distant parts
of the world.
If the missionaries were married to natives, the greater part of
these expenses and requfrements would be unnecessary ; there would
be few sick vrives, the children would be strong and healthy, and
would not requfre to be taken to Europe. Schools might be estab
Ushed here and there for thefr education, although not in such a
luxurious manner as those at Calcutta.
I hope that my -riews may not be misunderstood ; I have great
respect for missionaries, and aU whom I have known were honourable
men, and good fathers; I am also con-rinced that there are many
learned men araong them, who make valuable contributions to history
and phUosophy, but whether they thus fulfll their proper object
is another question. I should consider that a nussionary has other
duties than those of a phUosopher.
For my own part, I can only express my obligations to the mis
sionaries ; everywhere they showed rae the greatest kindness and
attention. Thefr raode of Ufe certainly struck rae, because I involun
tarily associate with the name "missionary" those men who at first
went out into the world, without support, to diffuse the docti-ines of
Christ, taking nothing with them but a pilgrim's staff.
Before concluding my description of Ororaia, I raust remark that
this neighbourhood is considered to be the bfrth-place of Zoroaster,
who is said to have lived 5,500 years before the bfrth of Christ, and
was the founder of the sect of Magi, or fire-worshippers.
On the 1st of August, I rode ten hours to the -village of Kutschie,
which Ues near the Lake Oromia ; we seldora caught sight of the lake,
although we were always very near to it aU day. We passed through
large, fertile villages, which would have presented a charming pro
spect if they had not been situated between barren and naked hiUs
and mountains.
I had not enjoyed so pleasant a day during the whole journey
from Mosul, or from Baghdad. My guide was a remarkably good
fellow, very attentive to me, and provided everything carefully when
we reaehed Kutschie ; he took me to a very cleanly peasant's cottage,
among some excellent people ; they immediately laid down a nice car
pet for me on a small terrace, brought me a basin of water to wash, and
a quantity of large black mulberries on a lackered plate. Afterwards
I had some strong soup with meat, fat, sour raiUc, and good bread, all
in clean vessels ; but what was better than all, the people retired as
soon as they had set the food before me, and did not stare at me as if
I was a strange animal. When I offered to pay these good people,
they would not take anything ; 1 had no opportunity of rewarding
them until the following morning, when I took two men ofthe family
as guard across the mountains, and gave them twice as rauch as they
are generally paid ; they thanked me, with touching cordiality, and
wished me safety and good fortune on my joumey.
2nd August. It occupied three hours to pass the most dangerous
part of these desolate mountains. My two armed men would not,
indeed, have afforded me much protection against a band of robbers,
although they were the means of making the journey less terrible

PEESIAN CHANS AND ENGLISH BUNGALOWS, 289
than it would have been if I had gone with my old guide alone. Wo
met several large caravans, but all going towards Oromia.
When we had crossed the mountains, the two men left us. We
entered into enormous valleys, which seemed to have been forgotten
by natore, and deserted by man. In my opinion, we were not m any
degree out of the danger, and I was right; for, as we were passing three
mined cotteges in this barren valley, several feUows rushed out upon
us, laid hold of cm- horses' reins, and commenced rummaging my
luggage. I expected nothing but an order to dismount, and afready
saw my little property lost. They talked -with my guide, who told
them the tale which I had imposed upon him — ^that I was a poor pU
grira, and that the English consuls or raissionaries paid aU my fravel-
Ung expenses. My dress, the smallness of my baggage, aud being
alone, agreed perfectly -rith this; they believed hmi, and my sUent
supplicative look, and let me go ; they even asked rae if I would have
some water, of which there is a scarcity in these -rillages. I begged
them for a draught, and so we parted good friends. Nevertheless I was
for some time fearful that they might repent thefr generosity and
foUow us.
We came to fhe shores of the lake again to-day, and continued to
fravel for some time at its side. After a ride of fom-teen hours, we
rested at a chan in the viUage of Schech-VaH.
Srd August. The oppressive sense of fear was now at an end.
We passed through peaceful inhabited vaUeys, where the people were
working in the fields, carrying home corn, tending cattle, &c.
During the hot noon hours we rested at Dise-haUl, a rather con
siderable town, vrith very clean sfreets ; the principal sfreet is inter
sected by a clear brook, and the court-yards of the houses resemble
gardens. Here also I saw outside the to-wn a great number of very
large gardens surrounded by high walls.
From the nuraber of chans, this town would appear to be yery
much -visited. In the small sfreet through which we passed, I counted
more than half a dozen. We dismounted at one of them, and I was
quite astonished at the conveniences which I found there. The stalls
were covered ; the sleeping-places for the drivers were on pretty
waUed terraces ; and the rooms for fravellers, although destitute of
aU furniture, were very clean, and fomished with stoves. The chans
were open to every one, and there is nothhig to pay for using them ;
at the utmost, a small trifle is given to the overseer, who prorides the
fraveUers' raeals.
In this respect, the Persians, Turks, and the so-caUed uncultivated
people, are much more generous than we are. In India, for exaraple,
where the EngHsh buUd bungalows, traveUers must pay a rupee per
night, or even for an hour, which does not include any provision for
the driver or the aniraals : they are obUged to take thefr rest in the
open afr. The fraveUers who are not Christians are not aUowed to
come into most of the bungalows at aU ; in a few they are admitted,
but only when the rooms are not req-ifred by a Christian ; if, how
ever, one should arrive at night, the poor unbeUever is obUged to turn
out for hira without pity. This humane cu-stom extends also to the
open bungalows, which consist only of a roof and three wooden waUs.

290 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE WORLD.
In the countries of the unbeUevers, however, those who come flrst
have the place, whether they are Christians, Turks, or Arabs ; indeed,
I ara flrraly con-vinced, that if all the places were occupied by unbe
Uevers, and a Christian was to corae, they would make room for him.
In the afternoon, we went as far as AU-Schach, a considerable
place, with a handsorae chan.
We here raet with three travellers, who were also going to Tebris.
My guide agreed to travel with thera, and that we should start at
night. Thefr society was not very agreeable to rae, for they were well-
arraed, and looked very savage. I should have preferred waiting
until daybreak, and going without thera, but ray guide assured me
that they were honest people ; and trusting more to my good fortune
than his word, I mounted my horse about 1 o'clock at night.
4th August. I soon lost my fear, for we frequently met small
parties of three or four persons, who would scarcely have ventm-ed to
fravel at night if the road had been dangerous. Large caravans also,
of several hundred camels, passed us and took up the road in such a
way, that we were obUged to wait for half an hour to allow them to

Towards noon we entered a valley in which lay a town, which was
certainly large, but of such an unpretending appearance, that I did
not at once inquire what was its name. The nearer we approached
the raore mined it appeared. The walls were half faUen, the streete
and squares full of heaps of rubbish, and many of the houses were in
ruins ; it seemed as if a pestilence or an enemy had destroyed it. At
last I asked its name, and could hardly believe that I had understood
it rightly when I was told that it was Tebris.
My guide conducted rae to the house of Mr. Stevens, the English
consul, who, to my vexation, was not in the town, but ten miles away
in the country. A servant, however, told me that he would go di
rectly to a gentleman who could speak English. In a very short time
he came, and his flrst questions were : " How did you come here,
alone ? Have you been robbed ? Have you parted from your com
pany and only left them in the town ? But when I gave hira ray
pass, and explained everything to him, he appeared scarcely to be
lieve me. He thought it bordered upon the fabulous that a woman
should have succeeded, without any knowledge of the language, in
penetrating through such coimtries and such people. I also could not
be too thankful for the evident protection which Providence had
afforded me. I felt myself as happy and Uvely as if I had taken a
new lease of my Hfe.
Doctor Cassolani showed me to some ropms in Mr. Stevens's house,
and said that he would immediately send a messenger to him, and I
inight meanwhile make known my wants to him.
When I expressed to him my_ astonishment at the miserable ap
pearance and ugly entrance to this town, the second in the country,
lie told me that the town could not be well seen frora the side at
¦Nvhich I carae in, and that the part which I saw was not considered
the town, but was chiefly old and, for the most part, deserted.

V ,i^ JJIL.

CHAl'TER XXL
SOJOURN IN TEBRIS.
Description of the To-wn — The To-wn — Period op Fasting — Behmen-Miuza — Anec
dotes OF THE Persian Government — Introduction to the Viceuot and his Wife
— Behmeji-Mirz-a's Wives — Visit to" a Persian Lady — Persecutio.-* of the Lower
Classes, of the Chiustians, and op the Jews — ^Departure.
Tebris, or Tauris, is the capital of the province of Aderbeidschan, and
the residence of the successor to the throne of Persia, who bears the
title of Viceroy. It is situated in a treeless valley on the rivers
Piatscha and Atschi, and contains 160,000 inhabitants. The town is
handsomer than Teheran or Ispahan, possesses a number of silk looms
¦and leather manufactories, and is said to be one of the principal seats
of Asiatic commerce.
The sfreete are tolerably broad, and are also kept clean, there is in
each an underground water canal with openings at regular intervals
for the purpose of dipping out water.
There is no more to be seen of the houses than in any other
Oriental town. Lofty waUs with low entrances, without windows,
and with the fronts always facing the court-yards, which are planted
with flowers and smaU trees, and generally adjoining a beautiful
garden. The reception rooms are large and lofty, -with whole rows
¦of windows, forming a complete wall of glass. The decoration of the
rooms is not elegant, generaUy nothing beyond some few carpets;
Furopean furniture and articles of luxury are rare.
There are no handsome mosques, palaces, or monumente, either
ancient or modern, with the exception of the partly ruined mosque of
Ali-Schach, which, however, wUl not bear comparison in any respect
with those in India.
The new bazaar is very handsome, its lofty, broad covered streets
-and passages forcibly called to my remembrance the bazaar at Con
stantinople ; but it had a more pleasant appearance as it is newer.
The raerchant's stalls also are larger, and the wares, although not
«o raagnificent and rich as sorae travellers represent, are raore taste-
fuUy displayed and can be more easUy overlooked, especially the car
pets, fruits, and vegetables. The cookshops also looked very in-riting,
and the various dishes seeraed so palatable and diffused such a sovoury
-odour, that I could have sat down with pleasure and partaken of thera.
The shoe departraent, on the contrary, presented nothing atfractive ;
there were only goods of the plainest description exposed; whUe in
•Constantinople the raost costly shoes and slippers, richly erabroidered
vrith gold, and even ornamented with pearls and precious stones, are
to he seen under glass cases. T

C33 A woman's journey EOUND THE WOELD.
I had arrived at Tebris at a rather unfavourable time— namely, the
fast month. Frora sunrise to simset nothing is eaten, nobody leaves
the house, there are neither -risits nor corapany — indeed, nothing but,
praying. This cereraony is so strictly observed that invalids frequently
faU victiras to it, as they -wUl take neither medicine nor food during
the day ; they believe that if they were to eat only a mouthful, they
would forf'eit the salvation to be obtained by fasting. Many of the
more enUghtcned make an exception to this custom in cases of illness ;
however, in such an instance the physician must send a -written de
claration to the priest, in which he explains the necessity of taking
medicine and food. If the priest puts his seal to this document, par
don is obtained. I am not aware whether this granting of indul
gences was taken by the Mahoraedans from the Christians, or the
reverse. Girls are obliged to keep these fasts after thefr tenth year,
and boys after thefr fifteenth.
It was to the courteousness of Dr. Cassolani, and his intiraacy with
some of the principal famiUes in Tebris, that I was indebted for my
introduction to them, and even for my presentation at court, not-with
standing the strict observance of the fast.
There was no viceroy in Tebris until about six months since, but
only a govemor ; the present reigning schach, Nesr-I-Din, raised the
province of Aderbeidschan to a viceroyalty, and decreed that every
eldest son of the future inheritor of the empfre should reside here aa
viceroy untU he came to the throne.
The last govemor of Tebris, Behmen Mh-za, the schach's brother,
was a remarkably intelUgent and just man. He brought the province
of Aderbeidschan into a flourishing condition in a few years, and
everywhere established order and security. This soon excited the
envy of the prirae minister Haggi-Mirza-Aagassi ; he urged the schach
to recaU his brother, and represented to him that he would engage
the affections of the people too much, and that he might at last make
himself king.
For a long tirae the schach paid no attention to these insinuations,
for he loved ms brother sincerely ; but the minister did not rest until
he had attained his -wishes. Behmen Mfrza, who knew all that was
going on at court, hastened to Teheran for the purpose of exculpating
himself before the schach. The latter assured him of his love and
confldence, and told him, candidly, that he might retain his office if
the minister would consent to it, and recomraended him to endeavour
to gain his favour.
Behmen Mfrza leai-nt, however, tiirough his friends, that the
flifaiister entertained an inveterate hatred towards him, and that he
ran the risk of being deprived of his sight, or even raade away vrith
altogether. They advised him to lose no tirae, but quit the country
iraraediately. He foUowed thefr advice, returned quickly to Tebris,
gathered his valuables together, and fled with a part of his famUy to
the neighbouring Russian dominions. Having arrived there, he ap
pealed to the Eraperor of Russia by letter, soliciting his protection,
which was magnanimously afforded to hira. The emperor -wrote to,
the schach declaring that the prince was no longer a Persian subject,
and that therefore every persecution of himself or his famUy must

ANECDOTES OP TIIE PEESIAN GOVEENMENI. 533
cease ; he also provided him with a pretty palace near Tiflis, sent him
costly presente, and, as I was informed, allowed hira a yearly pension
of 20,000 ducats.
It may be seen frora this circurastance that the minister completely
governed the schach ; indeed he succeeded to such an extent, tiiat the
schach honom-ed hira as a prophet, and unconditionally carried out aU
his suggestions. He was, on one occasion, desfrous of effecting some
very important object. He told the schach, at a morning visit, that
he woke in the night and felt himself being carried upwards. Ho
went up higher and higher, and flnally entered heaven, where he saw
and spoke with the king's father, who requested him to describe the
governraent of his son. The deceased king was greatly rejoiced to hear
of his good conduct, and recoramended that he should continue to go on
thus. The deUghted king, who had cordially loved his father, did not
cease from asking further questions, and tlie artful minister always
contrived to bring in at the end of his answers — " It was only this or
that thing that the father wished to see done," and of course the good
son fulflUed his father's wishes, not for one moment doubting the
assertions of his minister.
The king is said to be rather passionate, and when m such a state
of mind, wiU order the imraediate execution of an offender. The
minister, on the other hand, possesses at least enough sense of justice
to endeavour to stay the sentence of death upon men whom he does
not fear. He has, therefore, given orders that when such a cfrcum
stance occurs, he is to be sent for iramediately, and that the pre
parations for the execution are to be delayed until he comes. He
makes his appearance then as if accidentally, and asks what is going
on. The em-aged sovereign tells him' that he is about to have an
offender executed. The minister agrees with hira corapletely, and
steps to the window to consult the sky, clouds, and sun. Pre
sently he cries out that it would be better to postpone the execution
until the foUowing day, as the clouds, sun, or sky at the present
moraent are not favourable to it, and that some misfortune to the
king might probably result frora it. In the meanwhile, the king's
rage abates, and he consents that 'the condemned should be taken
away, and generaUy, that he shall be set free ; the next morning the
whole affafr is forgotten.
The following cfrcumstance is also interesting; the king had
once a particular hatred for one of his town governors, and ordered
him to the capital, with the intention of having him strangled.
The minister, who was a friend of the governor, was desirous of saving
him, and did so in the following manner. He said to the king,
" Sire, I bid you farewell, I am going- to Mecca." The long,
greatly grieved at the prospect of losing his favourite for so long
(the jom-ney to Mecca takes at least a year), hastily asked the reason
of his raaking this journey. " You know, sire, that I ara childless, and
that I have adopted the governor whora you wish to have executed ;
I shaU then lose ray son, and I wish to fetch another frora Mecca."
The king answered that he knew nothing of this, but as such was the
case he weald not have him executed, but allow him to retain his
office.

294 A woman's. JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD.
The king has a great affection for his raother. When she visited
hira, he always rose and continued standing, while she sat down.
The minister was much annoyed at this mark of respect, and said to
him, " You are king, and your mother must stand before you." And
he ultiraately succeeded according to his wish. If, however, the king's
raother comes at a time when the minister is not present, her son pays
her this respect. He then gives strict orders to his people not to say
anything of it to the minister.
I was told these and other things by a very trustworthy person,
and they may serve to give my readers some sUght idea of the system
of government in Persia.
I was presented to the viceroy a few days after my arrival. I
was conducted one afternoon by Dr. Cassolani to one of the royal
summer-houses. The house was situated in a small garden, which
was surrounded by another larger one, both enclosed by very high
walls. In the outer garden there were, besides meadows and fruit-
trees, nothing deserving of much notice, except a number of tente, in
which the miHtary were encaraped. The soldiers wore the usual
Persian dress, with the single exception that the officers on duty had
a sword, and the soldiers a musket. They only appear in uniform on
the most rare occasions, and then they are, in some respecte, like
European soldiers.
Several eunuchs received us at the entrance of the smaU garden.
They conducted us to an unpretending looking house, one story high,
at the end of a fleld of flowers. I should never have looked for the
country seat of the successor to the Persian throne in this house ; but
such it was. At the narrow enfrance of the Uttle house were two
sraall flights of stairs, one of which led to the reception-room of the
viceroj', the other to that of his -vrife. The doctor entered the former
and several female slaves took me to the -riceroy's wife. AVhen
I reached the top of the stairs, I took off my shoes, and entered
a small, corafortable roora, the walls of which consisted almost
entfrely of vrindows. The viceroy's wife, who was only fifteen years
of age, sat upon a plain easy chafr, not far from her stood a middle-
aged woman, the duenna of the harem, and an easy chafr was placed
for me opposite the princess.
I was fortunate enough to be remarkably well received. Dr.
Cassolani had described me as an authoress, adding that I intended to
pubUsh the experiences of my joumey. The princess inquired
whether I should mention her also, and when she was answered in
the affirmative, she determined to show herself in full dress, in order
to give me an idea of the gorgeous and costly dress of her country.
The young princess wore trousers of thick sUk, whieh were so fuU
of plaits that they stood out stiff, Hke the hooped petticoats of our
good old times. These trousers are from twenty to five and twenty
yards wide, and reach down to the ankle. The upper part ofthe body
was covered as far as the hips by a boddice, which, however, did not fit
close to the body. The sleeves were long and narrow. The corset
reserabled that of the tirae of the hooped petticoats ; it was raade of
thick sUk, richly and tastefully embroidered round the corners vrith
coloured siUi and gold. A very short white silk chemise was to be

INTEODUCTION TO THE VICEEOY AND HIS WIFE. 295
seen under the corset. On her head she wore a three-cornered white
kerchief, extending in front round the face, and fastened under the
chin ; behind, it fell down as far as the shoulders. This kerchief was
also very handsomely erabroidered -with gold and silk. The jewellci-\'
consisted of precious stones and pearls of great purity and size ; but
they had not rauch effect, as they were not set in gold, but simply
perforated and sfrung upon a gold thread, which was fastened above
the head kerchief, and came down under the chin.
The princess had on black sUk open-worked gloves, over which
were several finger rings. Round the -wrists sparkled costly bracelets
of precious stones and peails. On her feet she wore white silk
stockings. She was not remarkably beautiful ; her cheek bones were rather
too prominent; but altogetiier her appearance was very atb-active.
Her eyes were large, handsome, and inteUectual, her figure pretty,
and her age — fifteen years.
Her face was a very deUcate white and red; and the eyebrows were
covered -with blue sfreaks, which, in my opinion, rather disfigured
than adomed them. On the teraple a Uttle of her brilUant black hafr
-was to be seen.
Our conversation was carried on by signs. Dr. Cassolani, who
spoke Persian very weU, was not allowed to cross the tlireshold
to-day,. and the princess had received rae, consequently, unveUed
Dming this stupid interriew, I found time enough to look at the
distant view from the windows. It was here that I first saw how
extensive the town was, and what an abundance of gardens it pos
sessed. The latter are, indeed, its pecuUar ornament, for it contains
no fine buUdings ; and the large vaUey in which it Ues, together with
the raountains round, are naked and barren, and present no atfrac-
tions. I expressed my surprise at the great size of the town and the
number of the gardens.
Towards the end of the audience, a quantity of fruite and sweet
meats were brought, of which, however, I alone partook — it being
fast time.
Leaving the princess, I was conducted to her husband, the viceroy.
He was seventeen, and received me seated upon an easy chair at a
bow--window. I had to thank ray character of authoress, that
a chafr was placed ready for me. The walls of the large room
were panneled -with wood, and ornamented -with several mfrrors,
gUt-work, and oU-paintings of heads and fiowers. In the middle of
the saloon stood two large empty bedsteads.
The prince wore a European dress : trousers of fine white cloth,
¦with broad gold lace ; a dark blue coat, the coUar, facings, and corners
of which were richly embroidered vrith gold ; white sUk gloves and
stockings. His head was covered by a Persian fur cap nearly a yard
high. This is not, however, his ordinary dress ; he is said to change
his mode of dressing oftener than his -vrife, and soraetiraes to wear the
Persian costume, soraetiraes to envelope hiraself in cashraere shawls,
as his fancy may be.
I should have supposed that he was at least twenty-two. He has
a pale, tawny coraplexion, and, altogether, no atfractive, araiable, or

290 A woman's JOURNEY EOUND TIIE WOELD.
intellectual expression ; never looks straightforward and openly at
you, and his glance is savage and repulsive. I jiitled, in my mind,
all those who were his subjects. I would rather be the wife of a poor
peasant than his favourite princess.
The prince put several questions to me, which Dr. Cassolani, who
stood a few paces from us, interpreted. They were nothing remark
able, chiefly common-places about my joumey. The prince can read
and write in his mother tongue, and has, as I was told, sorae idea of
geography and history. He receives a few European newspapers and
periodicals, frora which the interpreter bas to make extracts, and read
to him. His opinion of the great revolutions of the tirae was, that the
European monarchs might have been very good, but they were most
remarkably stupid to allow themselves to be so easily driven from the
throne. He considered that the result would have been very different if
they had had plenty of people strangled. As far as regards execution
and punishment, he far exceeds his father ; and, unfortunately, has no
controling rainister at his side. His governraent is said to be that
of a child ; one raoraent he orders soraething to be done, and an hoiir
afterwards counterraands it. But what can be expected from a youth
of seventeen, who has received little or no education ; -n-as married
at fifteen, and, two years afterwards, takes the unUmited control of a
large province with a revenue of a mUlion tomans (£500,000), and
with every means of gratifying his desfres.
The prince has at present only one regular wife, although he is
allowed to have four ; however, he has no scarcity of handsome female
friends. It is the custom in Persia, that when the king, or the successor
to the throne, hears that anyone of his subjects has a handsome daughter
or sister, he demands her. The parents or relations are greatly rejoiced
at tins comraand, for if the gfrl is really handsome, she is, in any case,
well provided for. If, after some time, she no longer pleases the king
or prince, she is married to some minister or rich man ; but, if she has
a child, she is immediately considered as the king's or prince's acknow
ledged wife, and remains permanently at court. When, on the con
trary, a, gfrl does not please the regent at fu-st sight, her famUy are
very much disappointed, and consider themselves imfortunate. She
is, in this case, sent home again immediately, her reputation for
beauty is lost, and she has not, after this, much chance of making a
good match.
Tho princess is already a mother, but, unfortunately, only of a
daughter. She is, for the present, the chief wife of the prince, because
no other female has given birth to a son; but whoever brings the first
son into the world wUl then take her place : she will be honoured as
the mother of the heir to the throne. In consequence of this custom,
the chUdren are unfortunately liable to the danger of being poisoned ;
for any woman who has a child excites the envy of all those who are
childless ; and this is more particularly the case when the child is a
boy. When the princess accompanied her husband to Tebris, she left
her Httle daughter behind, under the protection of its grandfather, the
Schach of Persia, in order to secure it frora her rivals.
When the viceroy rides out, he is preceded by several hundred
soldiers. Thoy are followed by servants with large sticks, who caU

298 A WOM.iN'S JOUENEY EOUND THE "WOELD.
poste there -was also sorae gUding. The floor was covered with-
cai-peting ; and at the place where the raistress of the house satr
another piece of rich carpet was laid over. In Persia, there are no-
divans, but only thick round pUlows for leaning upon.
Intimation had previously been given of my visit. I found a large
party of woraen and young gfrls asserabled, who had probably been
attracted here by thefr curiosity to see a European woraan. Thefr'
dress was costly, Uke that of the princess, but there was a difference
in the jeweUery. Several araong thera were very handsome, although
they had rather broad foreheads, and too prominent cheek-bones. The
most charming features of the Persians are thefr eyes, which are re
raarkable, as weU for thefr size as tiiefr beautiful form and animated
expression. Of course, there was no want of paint on thefr skins and
eye-brows. This party of women was the most agreeable and unconsfrained
that I ever found in Oriental houses. Iwas able to converse in French
-vrith the mistress of the house, by the help of her son, of about eigh
teen, who had received an exceUent education in Constantinople. Not
only the son, but also the mother and the other women, were read and
well-informed. Dr. Cassolani, moreover, assured me that the gfrls
of rich famiUes could nearly aU read and -write. They are, in this
respect, far in advance of the Turks.
The mistress of the house, her son, and myself, sat upon chafrs,
the rest squatted down on carpete round us. A table, the first that I
had seen in a Persian house, was covered with a handsome cloth, and
set out vrith the most magnificent fruite, sherbete, and various
deUcacies, which had been prepared by my host herself; araong the
sweetmeats were sugared almonds and fruits, which not only
appeared inviting, but tasted deUciously.
The sweet melons and peaches were just in tiiefr prirae during
my stey at Tebris. They were so deUcious, that it may weU be said
Persia is thefr native country. The melons have more frequently a
whitish, or greenish, than a yeUow pulp. They may be eaten entu-ely,
with the exception of the outermost thin rind ; and, if it were possible
for anything to exceed sugar in sweetness, it would be these melons.
The peaches are also juicy, sweet, and aromatic.
Before learing Tebris, I raust say a few words about the people.
The complexion of the common men is rather more than sunburnt ;
among the upper classes, white is the prevaiUng colour of the skin.
They all have black hair aud eyes. Thefr figures are taU and powerful,
the features very marked — especiaUy the nose — and the look rather
¦wUd. The women, both of the upper and lower classes, are uncora-
monly thickly veiled when they go out. The better-dressed men wear,
out of doors, a vei-y long mantle of dark cloth with slashed sleeves,
which reach to the groimd ; a gfrdle or shawl surrounds thefr waist,
and thefr head-dress consists of a pointed black fur cap raore than a
foot high, which is made of the skins of unborn sheep. The woraen
of the labouring class do not appear to have rauch to do ; during ray
journey, I saw only a few at work in the fields, and I noticed also in
the town that aU the hard work is done by the men.
In Tebris, as well as throughout tho whole of Persia, the Jews,

DEPAETUEE FROM TEBRIS. 209-
semi-Mahoracdans, and Christians, are intolerably hated. Three
raonths since, the jews and Christians iu Tebris were in great danger.
Several crowds of people gathered together and marched through tho
quai-ter where these people dwelt, when they coraraenced plundering
and desti-oying the houses, threatening the inhabitants with death,
and, in sorae cases, even putting thefr threats into execution. Fortu
nately, this horrible proceeding was immediately made known to the
governor of the town; and he, being a brave and deterrained raan,
lost not a moment's time even to throw his kaftan over his house-dress,
but hastened out into the raidst of the crowd, and succeeded, by moans
of a powerful speech, in dispersing the people.
On arriring at Tebris, I expressed my desfre to continue my
journey from here to TifUs by way of Natschivan and Erivan. It
appeai-ed at fu-st that there was not ranch hope of its possibility, as,
since the late political disturbances in Europe, the Russian govern
ment, like the Chinese, had strictly prohibited the entrance of any
foreigners; however, Mr. Stevens promised to make use of all his
power -vrith the Russian consul, Mr. Anitechow, in my favour. I was
indebted to this, together with my sex and age, for being made aa
exception. I received from the Russian consul not only the permission,
but also several kind letters of introduction to people at Natschivan,
Erivan, and Tiflis.
I was advised to ride fi-om Tebris to Natschivan with post-horses,
and to take a servant with me as far as that place. I did so, and
commenced my jom-ney at 9 o'clock in the moming of the llth of
August. Several gentleraen, whose acquaintance I had made in
Tebris, accompanied rae about a mile out of the town, and we
encamped on the bank of a beautiful little river, and partook of a cold
breakfast. Then I began ray journey alone, indeed, but composedly
and -with good com-age, for now I thought I was entering a Cliristian
country, beneath the sceptre of a civilized, European, law and order-
loving monarch.

CHAPTER xxn.
ASIATIC EUSSIA — AEMENIA, GEORGIA, AND MINGRELIA.
Sophia — Marand — The Evssian Frontier — Natschivan — Journey of thf. Caravan —
A Night's Imprisonment— Continuation of the Journey — Erivan — The Eussian
Po-*T — The Tartars — Arrival in Tiflis — Sojourn there — Contihua'TION of the
JoURNKY — Kutais — MAR.uiD — Trip on the Eidon— Eedutkale.
1 1th August. The stations between Tebris and Natschivan are very
irregular ; one of the longest, however, is the first — namely, to the
village of Sophia, which occupied us six hours. The road lay through
vallej's, which were, for the most part, barren and uninhabited.
As it was already 3 o'clock when we reached Sophia, the people
there endeavoured to prevent me from going any further. They
pointed to the sun, and at the same time signified that I raight be
attacked by robbers, plundered, and even raurdered ; but such state
ments had no influence with me ; and after I had with great trouble
ascertained that it would only require four hours to reach the next
station, I determined to continue my joumey ; and to the vexation of
my servant, whom I had engaged as far as Natschivan, ordered him
to saddle fresh horses.
Imraediately after leaving SoplUa, we entered barren, rocky val
leys, which my guide represented as being very dangerous, and which
I should not have liked to pass at night ; but as the sun was shining
in full splendour, I urged on ray horse, and amused myself by looking
r.t the beautiful colours and grouping of the rocks. Some were of a
glittering pale green ; others covered with a whitish, half transparent
substance ; others again terminated in numerous oddly forraed angles,
and from the distance looked like beautiful groups of trees. There
was so much to see that I really had no time to think of fear.
About half-way lay a pretty little village in a valley, and beyond
it rose a steep mountain, on the surarait of which a charming prospect
of mountain country kept me gazing- for a long while.
We did not reach Marand tUl nearly 8 o'clock ; but still with our
heads, necks, and baggage, all safe.
Marand lies in a fertile valley, and is the last Persian town whioh
I saw, and one of the most agreeable and handsome. It has broad,
clean streets, houses in good repair, and several smaU squai-es with
beautiful springs, which are, raoreover, surrounded by trees.
My shelter for the night was not so good as the town promised:
I was obliged to share the court with the post-horses. My supper
consisted of some roasted and very salt eggs.
12th August. Our journey for to-day was as far as Arax, on the
Russian frontier. Although only one stage, it took us eleven hours.
Wo followed the course of a small brook, which wound through barren
valleys and ravines; not a single village lay on our road; and with
the exception of some little mills and the ruins of a mosque, I saw no
more buildings in Persia. Persia is, on the whole, very thinly popu-

THE EUSSIAN FRONTIEE. 201
lated, on account ofthe scarcity of water. No country in the world
has more mountains, and fewer rivers, than Persia. The afr is, on this
account, very dry and hot.
The valley in which Arax is situated is lai-ge, and the extraordi
nary formation of the mountains and rocks renders it very picturesque.
In the extreme distance rise lofty mountains, of which Ararat is more
than 16,000 feet in height, and in the valley itself there are numerous
rocky elevations. The principal of these, a beautiful sharp rocky
cone, of at least 1,000 feet in height, is called the Serpent Mountain.
The river Aras fiows close to the headland. It separates Armenia
frora Media, has a terrible fall, and high waves. It here forras the
boundary between the llassian and Persian dominions. We crossed
in a boat. On the opposite side of the river were several small houses
where travellers are obUged to stop and prove that they are not rob
bers, and especially that they are not poUtically dangerous. Occa
sionally they are detained in quarantine for some tirae, when the
plague or cholera happens to be prevalent in Persia.
A letter from the Russian consul at Tebris ensured rae a very
courteous reception ; from the quarantine I was saved, as there was
no plague or cholera. I had, however, scarcely set my foot upon
Russian ground, when the impudent begging for drink-money began.
'The offlcer had among his people a Cossack, who represented himself
as understanding German, and he was sent to me to ask what I wished
for. The rogue knew about as much Gerraan as I did Chinese —
hardly three or four words. I therefore signified to hira that I did
not require his services, in spite of which he held out his hand, begging
for raoney. 13th August. I left -4rax betimes in the morning, in corapany
with a customs' officer, and rode to the town of Natechivan, which lies
in a large valley, surrounded by the lofty mountains of Ararat. The
counfry here is fertile, but there are very few trees.
I never had so rauch trouble to obtain shelter in any place as in
this. I had two letters, one to a Gerraan physician, the other to the
governor. I did not wish to go to the latter in my travelling dress,
as I was again araong cultivated people, who are accustomed to judge
of yon by your dress, and there was no inn. I therefore intended
to ask accommodation in the doctor's house. I showed the address,
which was written in the native language, to several people to read,
that they might point out the house to me ; but they all shook their
heads, and let me go on. At last I came to the custom-house, where
my little luggage was imraediately taken possession of, and rayself
conducted to the inspector. He spoke a little German, but paid no
regard to ray request. He told me to go into the custom-house, and
unlock my portmanteau.
The inspector's wife and sister accompanied me. I was rauch as
tonished at this poUteness, but found, however, too soon that other
reasons had induced them to come — both the ladies wished to see
what I had brought with me. They had chairs brought, and took
their places before my portmanteau, which was opened, when three
pafr of hands were thrust in. A number of papers folded together,
coins, dried flowers, and other objects, obtained from Nineveh, were

302 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
instantly seized hold of, and thrown about ; every ribbon, every cap,
was taken out ; and it was clearly perceptible that the inspector's wife
had sorae difficulty in parting with them again.
After this was sufficiently examined, a coraraon box, which con
tained my greatest treasure, a small relief frora Nineveh, was brought
forward. One of the men took hold of a heavy wooden axe, for the
purpose of striking off the Hd. This was rather too much for me,
and I would not allow it. To my great satisfaction, a German woman
came in just at this moment. I told her what was in the box, and
that I did not object to its being opened, although I wished them to
do it carefully with a chisel and pincers ; but, strange to say, there
were no such tools in the place, although they were wanted daily. I
at last succeeded in persuading them to break off the lid with care.
Notwithstanding the anxiety I was in, I could not help laughing at
the foolish faces which both the women and the customs' officer raade
when they saw the fragments of brick from Babylon, and the some
what damaged Ninevite head. They could not at all comprehend why
I should carry such objects with me.
The German woman, Henriette Alexandwer, invited rae to tako
coffee with her ; and when she heard of my perplexity with respec,t
to a lodging, she offered rae a room in her house. On the following
day, I visited the governor, who received me very poUtely, and over
powered me with favours, — I was obHged to move into his house
directly. He attended to my passport, and obtained aU the necessary
vises, of which I required half a dozen since entering the Christian
dominions, and made an agreement for rae with sorae Tartars, whose
caravan was going to Tiflis. I then looked round the raiserable half-
ruined town with the good Mrs. Alexandwer, and saw Noah's monu
ment. According to Persian accounts, Natschivan is said to have been
one of the largest and handsomest towns of Armenia ; and Armenian
writers affirm that Noah was the founder. The modern town is built
quite in' the Oriental style ; only a few of the houses have the windows
and doors turned towards the streets ; generaUy the front faces the
small garden. The dress of the people is also rather Hke the Persian,
but the officials, merchants, &e., wear European costurae.
Nothing raore reraains of Noah's sepulchre than a small arched
chamber, without a cupola. It appears to have been formerly covered
with one, but it is not possible to decide from the few ruins that now
remain. In the interior, neither a sarcophagus nor grave are to be
seen ; a single brick piUar stands in the centre, and supports the roof.
The whole is sun-ounded by a low wall. Many pilgriras corae here,
Mahomedans as well as Christians ; and both sects entertain the re
markable beUef, that if they press a stone into the wall while thinking
of something at the same time, and the stone remains sticking to the
wall, that their thoughts are either true or will come to pass, and the
reverse when the stone does not adhere. The truth of the matter is,
however, simply this : the cement or mortar is always rather moist;
and if a smooth stone is pushed a Uttle upwards while being pressed,
it reraains hanging ; if it is only pressed horizontally, it faUs off
again.

JOUENEY FROM NATSCHIVAN BY CARAViVN. 303
Not far from Noah's torab stands another very handsome monu
ment; unfortunately I could not learn to whose memory it was
erected, or to what age it belonged. It consists of a high building,
reserabling a tower with twelve angles ; the waUs between the angles
are covered, frora top to bottora, with the raost artistic raathematical
figures in triangles and sexagons, and some places are inlaid with
glazed tUes. The monument is surrounded by a wall, forraing a
small court-yard; at the entrance-gates stand half-ruined towers,
like minarets.
17th August. I felt very unwell to-day, which was the raore un
pleasant, as the caravan started in the evening. For several days I
had been unable to take any food, and suffered fi-om excessive lassi
tude. Nevertheless I left my rest, and mounted my caravan nag ; I
thought that change of afr would be the best restorative.
Fortimately we went only a short distance beyond the city gate,
and remained there during the night and the following day. We
did not proceed any further untU the evening of the 18th of
August. The caravan only conveyed goods, and the drivers were
Tartars. The joumey from Natschivan to Tiflis is generally made in
from twelve to fourteen days j but with my caravan, to judge from
the progress we made at the comraencement, it would have occupied
six weeks, for on the first day we went scarcely any distance, and on
the second, very Uttle more than the first ; I should have travelled
quicker on foot.
19 th August. It is really unbearable. During thewhole day we
lay in waste stubble-fields, exposed to the most scorching heat, and
did not mount our horses until 9 o'clock in the evening ; about an
hour afterwards we halted, and encaraped. The only thing good
about this caravan was the food. The Tartars do not live so frugally
as the Arabs. Every evening an exceUent pillau was made with
good-tasting fat, frequently vrith dried grapes or plums. Almost
every day beautiful water and sugar-raeUons were brought to us
to buy. The seUers, mostly Tartars, always selected a small lot and
offered it to me as a present.
The road led continually through large, fertUe valleys round the
foot of Ararat. To-day I saw the raajestic mountain very clearly,
and in tolerable proximity. I should think we were not more than
two or three miles from it. It seemed, frora its magnitude, as if
separated from the other mountains, and standing alone ; but it is
in fact, connected with the chain of Taurus by a low range of hiUs.
Its highest surarait is divided in such a way that between two peaks
there is a smaU plain, on which it is said that Noah's ark was left
after the deluge. There are people who affirra that it would stiU be
found there if the snow could be removed.
In the more recent treatises on geography, the height of Ararat
is given as 16,000 feet ; in the older ones, as 11,000. The Persians
and Armenians call this mountain Macis ; the Grecian writers des
cribe it as a part of the Taurus range. Ararat is quite barren, and
covered above vrith perpetual snow ; lower down Hes the cloister,
ArakUvank, at the place where Noah is said to have taken up his first
abode.

304 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
20th August. We encamped in the neighbourhood of the village
Gadis. Many commentators of the Scriptures place the garden of
Eden in the Armenian prorince of Ararat. In any case, Armenia
has been the scene of most important events. Nowhere have so many
bloody battles taken place as in this country, as all the great con
querors of Asia have brought Armenia under their confrol.
21st August. We stUl continued near Ararat; meanwhile wo
passed by Russian and German colonies, the houses in the latter had
exactly the appearance of those in German raountain -rillages. The
road was, throughout, very uneven and stony, and I cannot imagine
how the post cap, fravel upon it.
To-day I met with another very unpleasant adventure. My cara
van encamped in the neighbourhood of the station Sidin, about fifty
paces from the side of the post-road. Towards 8 in the evening I
walked out as far as the road, and as I was about to return 1 heard
the sound of post-horses coming ; I remained in the road to see the
travellers, and noticed a Russian, seated in an open car, and by his
side a Cossack, with a musket. When the vehicle had passed, I
turned quietly round ; but, to my astonishment, heard it stop, and
felt myself, almost at the same moment, seized forcibly by the arms.
It was the Kossaek who held me, and endeavoured to drag me to the
car. I tried to release myself, pointed to the caravan, and said that
I belonged to it. The fellow immediately stopped my mouth with his
hand, and threw me into the car, where I was tightly held by the
other man. The Cossack imraediately jumped up, and the driver
urged his horses on as quickly as they could go. The whole was
done so quickly that I scarcely knew what had happened to me.
The men held me tightly by the arms, and my mouth was kept
covered up until we were so far frora the caravan that the people
belonging to it could no longer have heard ray cries.
Fortunately I was not frightened ; I thought at once that these
two araiable Russians raight, in their zeal, have taken rae for a very
dangerous person, and have supposed they had raade a very import
ant capture. When they uncovered my mouth, they commenced
questioning rae as to ray native country, name, &e. I understood
enough Russian to give thera this information, but they were not
satisfied with that, and requfred to see my passport ; I told them
that they must send for my portmanteau, and then I would show
them that I had permission to travel.
We came, at last, to the post-house, where I was taken into a
room ; fhe Cossack placed himself with his musket under the open
door, so as to keep his eye continually on me ; and the other man,
who, from his dark-green velvet facings, I supposed to be ono of the
Emperor's officers, remained some tune in the roora. At the end of
half an hour, the post-master, or whoever he was, eame to examine
me, and to hear an account of the achievements of my captors, who
hastened, with laughing countenances, to give a complete statement
of what had happened.
I was obliged to pass the night, under strict guard, upon a wooden
bench, without either a -wrapper or a mantle with me, and suffering
from hunger and thfrst. They neither gave me a coverlet nor a

ERIVAN. SOS
piece of bread ; and when I merely rose from tho bench to walk up
and down the room, the Cossack rushed in immediately, seized my
arras, and led me back to the bench, telUng me, at tho same time,
that I must remain there quietly.
Towards morning they brought me my luggage, when I showed
them my papers, and was set at liberty. Instead, however, of apo
logizing for having freated me in such a way, they laughed at me ;
and when I came out into the court, every one pointed at rae with
their fingers, and joined my gaolers in their laughter. Oh ! you good
Turks, Arabs, Persians, Hindoos, or whatever else you may be called,
such freatment was never shown to me araongst you ! How plea
santly have I always taken leave of aU your countries ; how atten
tively I was treated at the Persian frontiers, when I would not
understend that my passport was requfred, and here, in a Christian em
pfre, how rauch inciviUty have I had to bear during this short journey !
On the 22nd of August I rejoined my caravan, where I was
received with cordiality.
23rd August. The countiy still presented the same featm-es ; one
large valley succeeding another. These valleys are less cultivated
than those in Persia ; to-day, however, I saw one which was tolerably
well planted, and in which the villagers had even planted trees befbre
thefr hute.
24th August. Station Erivan. I was happy to have reached
this town, as I hoped to meet with some of my country-people here,
and, by thefr help, to find a quicker mode of conveyance to Tiflis. I
was determined to leave the caravan, since we did not go more than
four hours a day.
I had two letters ; one to the town physician, the other to
the govemor. The latter was in the country; Dr. Miiller, how
ever, received me so well that I could not possibly have been
better taken care of.
Erivan* is situated on the river Zengui, and is the capital of
Armenia ; it contains about 17,000 inhabitants, and is built upon low
hUls, in a large plain, surrounded on all sides with raountains. The
town has sorae fortified walls. Although the European mode of
architecture already begins to predominate greatly, this town is by
no raeans to be reckoned among either the handsome or cleanly ones.
I was most amused by the bazaars, not on account of thefr contents,
for these do not present any remarkable features, but because I always
saw there diff'erent, and for the most part unknown, national costumes
There were Tarters, Cossacks, Circassians, Georgians, Mingrelians,
Turkonians, Armenians, &c. ; chiefly powerful, handsome people, with
* Tradition says tliat the country about Erivan is that part of the earth which -w-as first
of all peopled. Noah and his family dwelt here, both before and after the deluge ; the
Garden of Eden is also said to have been situated here. Erivan -was formerlv called
Terva, and -was the chief city of Armenia. Not far from Erivan lies the chief sacred
relic of the Armenian Christians— the cloister Ecs-miazim . The church is simple in con
struction ; the pillars, seventy-three foet high, consist of blocks of stone joined together.
In the Treasury -were, formerly, two pf the nails with whioh Christ -was crucified, the
lanee -with -which he was stabbed in the side, and, lastly, a seamless garment of Christ.
It is asserted that in the centre of the church is the spot where Noah, after his delivery,
ereeted an altar and ofi'ered sacriflce. Besides these, tbe church is in the possession of
imuimerable important relics*

306 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
fine expressive features — particularly the Tartars and Circassians.
Thefr dress partly resembled the Persian ; indeed that of the Tartars
difl'ered from it only by points to the boots, and a less lofty c-ap.
The points on the boots are frequently as much as four inches long,
and turned inward and towards the end ; the caps are also pointed,
and made of black fur, but not raore than half as high. Very few of the
women of these tribes are seen in the streets, and those are enveloped
iu wrappers ; nevertheless, they do not veil their faces.
The Russians and the Cossacks have stupid coarse features, and
their behaviour corresponds corapletely to what thefr appearance in
dicates ; I never met with a people so covetous, coarse, and slavish
as they are. When I asked about anything, they either gave rae a
surly answer, or none at all, or else laughed in my face. This rude
ness would not, perhaps, have appeared so remarkable if I had come
from Europe.
It had already been my intention in Natschivan to travel with
the Russian post ; but I had been dissuaded from doing so, as I was
assured that, as a solitary woman, I should not be able to agree with
the people. However, here I was determined to do so, and I re
quested Dr. Miiller to make the necessary preparations for me.
In order to travel in Russia by the post, it is necessary to procure
a padroschne (certificate of permission), which is only to be had in a
town where there are several grades of oflicials, as this important
document requires to be taken to six of the number. 1st, to the
treasurer ; 2nd, to the police (of course with the passport, certificate
of residence, &c.) ; Srd, to the commandant; 4th, again to the police;
Sth, again to the treasurer ; and 6th, to the police again. In the
padroschne an accurate account must be given of how far the fraveller
wishes to go, as the postmaster dare not proceed a single worst beyond
the station named. Finally, a half kopec (half kreutzer), must be
paid per worst for each horse. This at first does not appear much ;
hut is, nevertheless, a considerable tax, when it is remembered that
seven worsts are only equal to a geographical mile, and that three
horses are always used.
On the 26th of August, about 4 in the morning, the post was to
have been at the house ; but it struck 6, and there was stUl no ap
pearance of it. If Dr. Mulier had not been so kind as to go there, I
should not have started until the evening. About 7, I got off — an
oxcellent foretaste of my future progress.
We travelled certainly with speed ; but any one who had not a
body of iron, or a well-cushioned spring carriage, would not find this
yery agreeable, and would certainly prefer to travel slower upon
these uneven, bad roads.
The post carriage, for which ten kopecs a station is paid, is
nothing more than a very short, wooden, open car, with four wheels.
Instead of a seat, some hay is laid in it, and there is just room enough
for a small chest, upon which the driver sits. These cars naturally
jolt very much. There is nothing to take hold of, and it requires
some care to avoid being thrown out. The draught consists of three
horses abreast ; over the centre one a wooden arch is fixed, on which
hang two or three bells, which continually made a most disagreable

IHE RUSSIAN POST. S07
noise. In addition to tins, imagine the rattUng of the carriage, and
the shouting of the driver, who is always in great activity urging on
the poor animals, and it raay be easily understood that, as is often
the case, the carriage arrives at the station without the travellers.
The division of the stations is veiy irregular, varying from four
teen to thfrty wersti. Between the second and third stations, I
passed over a very short space of ground, where I found a kind of
lava, exactly resembling the beautiful, brUUant, glassy lava of
Iceland (black agate, also caUed obsidian), which was stated to be
found in that island only. The second stage led through a newlj-
erected Russian viUage, extending to Lake Liman.
August 27th. To-day I had another evidence of the pleasure of
travelling by the Russian post. On the previous evening I had
ordered and paid for everything before-hand; yet I was obUged
in the raorning to awaken the post oflicers rayself, as weU as to
see after the driver, and to be constantly about among the people,
in order to get away. At the thfrd stetion I was kept waiting
three hours for the horses ; at the fourth they gave me none, and
1 was obHged to stey aU night, although I had gone only fifty-five
wersti the whole day.
The character of the country changes before reaching DeHschan:
the valleys confract to narrow gorges, and the mounteins seldom
leave space for smaU -viUages and plots of ground. The naked
masses of rock cease, and luxuriant woods cover the heighte.
Near Pipis, the last stege that I went to-day, beautiful cliffs
and rocks rose close to the post-road, many of them presenting
the appearance of enormous columns.
August 28tii. Continual frouble with the post people. I am
the greatest enemy of scolding and harsh treatment ; but I should
have best Uked to have spoken to these people with a stick. No
idea can be formed of thefr stupidity, coarseness, and want of feeling.
Officers, as weU as servants, are frequently found at all hours of the
day sleeping or dmnk. In this state they do as they please, -wiU not
stir from thefr places, and even laugh in the faces of the unfortunate
traveUers. By the aid of much quarreUing and noise, one is at last
induced to drag out the car, a second to grease it, another baits
the horses, which have often to be harnessed, then the straps are
not in order, and must be first fastened and repafred; and in
numerable other things of this kind, which are done with the
greatest terdiness. When, afterwards, in the towns I expressed my
disapprobation of these -wretched post estabUshmente, I received as
answer that these countries had been too short a tirae under Russian
dominion, that the imperial city was too far distant, and that I,
as a single woraan -without servants, raight consider rayself fortunate
in having got through as I had.
I did not know what reply to make to this, except that in the
most recently acqufred colonial possessions of the EngUsh, which
are stUl farther from the capitel, everything is exceUently arranged;
and that there a woraan without servante was as quickly attended to
as a gentleman, smce they find her money not less acceptable than
that of the latter. The case is very different, however, at a Russian

308 A woman's journey ROUND THE WORLD.
post station ; when an official or officer comes, every one is active
enough, cringing round the watering-place for fear of flogging or
punishment. Officers and officials belong, in Russia, to the privUeged
class, and assume all kinds of despotisra. If, for example, they do
not travel on duty, they should not, according to the regulations,
have any greater advantages than private traveUers. But, instead.
of setting a good example, and sho-wing the mass of the people that
the laws and regulations must be observed, it is precisely these
people who set all laws at defiance. They send a servant forward
or borrow one from their fellow-traveUers, to the station to announce
, that on such a day they shall arrive, and wUl require eight or twelve
¦ horses. If any hindrance occurs during this time — a hunt or a dinner
— or if the wife of the traveller has a headache or the cramp, they
postpone the journey -without any ado to another day or two ; the
horses stand constently ready, and the postmaster dare not venture
to give thera to private traveUers.* It raay so happen that traveUers
have in such a case to wait one or even two days at a station, and do
not get through thefr journey quicker by the post than by a caravan.
In the course of ray joumey by the Russian post, I several tiraes
went only a single stage during a whole long day. When I saw
an uniform I was always in dread, and raade up my mind that I
should have no horses.
In each post-house, there are one or two rooms for fravellers, and
a raaiTied Cossack in charge, who, together with his wife, attends to
strangers, and cooks for them. No charge is made for the room, the.
first comer is entitled to it. These attendants are as obUging as the
stable people, and it is often difficult to procure with money a few
eggs, railk, or anything of the kind.
The journey through Persia was dangerous; that through Asiatic
Russia, however, was so froublesorae, that I would prefer tiie former
under any circurastences.
From Pipis the country again diminishes in beauty : the valleys
expand, the mountains beeome lower, and both are frequently without
trees, and barren.
I met, to-day, several nomadic parties of Tartars. The people sat
npon oxen and horses, and others were loaded with thefr tents and
household utensils ; the cows and sheep, of which there were always
a great number, were driven by the side. The Tarter women were
mostly richly clothed, and also very ragged. Their dress consisted
almost entirely of deep red sUk, which was often even erabroidered
with gold. They wore wide trousers, a long kaftan, and a shorter
one over that ; on the head a kind of bee-hive, eaUed schauhe, made
of the bark of frees, painted red and ornaraented with tinsil, coral,
and small coins. From the breast to the gfrdle their clothes were
also covered with simUar things, over the shoulders hung a cord -with
an amulet in the nose, they wore small rings. They had large wrap
pers thrown round them ; but left their faces uncovered.
Thefr household goods consisted of tents, handsome rugs, froa
• Thisis carried to such an extent that iJ a traveller has his horses already put to, and
$s in tho carriage, and an offlcer arrives, the horses are taken off aud giveu to the latter.

rm; t.4,rtaus — .\urival in tiflis. soo
pots, copper coins, Szc. Tho Tai-tars are mostly of the ilahomcdau
i-eligiou. Tlie permanent Tartars have very peculiar dweUings, whioh may
be called enormous molehills. Their villages are chieUy situated on
declivities, and hills, in which they dig holes of the size of spacious
rooms. The«Jight falls only throug-h the entrance, or outlet. This is
broader than it is high, and is protected by a long and broad portico
of planks,- resting either upon beams or the stems of trees. Nothing
is raore cqpuoal tlian to see such a village, consisting of notiiing but
these porticos, and neither windows, doors, nor walls.
Those who dwell in the plains make artiflcial mounds of earth,
and buUd tiiefr huts of stone or wood. They then tiirow earth over
them, whiclf they stamp down tightly, so that the huts themselves
cannot be seen at all. Until witlun the last sixty years, it is said that
many such dweUings were to be seen in the town of Tiflis.
29th August. This morning I had stiU one stage of twenty-four
wersti ere I reached Tiflis,, The road was, as everywhere else, full of
holes, ruts and stones. I was obliged always to tie a handkerchief
tightly round my head, to ease the jolting ; and still, I was every day
attacked with headache. To-day, however, I learnt the full nuisance
of these carriages.- It had rained, not only during the whole night,
but stUl eontinued so. The wheels threw up such raasses of mud,
that I soon snt in a thick puddle, I was covered even over the head,
and my face did not escape. Small boards hanging over the wheels
would have ejsily remedied this inconvenience; but none trouble
themselves in this country about the comfort of travellers.
Tiflis comes in sight during the latter half of the stage. The
prospect of the' town charmed me much ; as, with the exception of a
few church towers, it was built in the European style ; and, since
Valparaiso, I had not seen any town 'resembUng the European.
Tiflis contains 40,000 inhabitants, it is the capital of Georgia,* and is
situated tolerably near the mountains. Many of the houses are built
on hiUs, on high steep rocks. From some of the hills there is a
beautiful view of the town and valley. The latter, at the time of my
visit, was not yevy attractive, as the harvest had deprived it of all
the charms of cplour ; there were also but few gardens, &o. On the
other hand, the river Kurry (generally called Cyrus) winds in grace
ftil curves through the t4wn and valley, and in the far distance
sparkle the sno-w-crowned summits of the Caucasus. A. strong
citadel, Naraklea, is situated upon steep rocks, immediately betbre
the town.
The houses ai-e lai-ge, and tastefuUy ornamented with facades and
columns, and covered wilh sheet iron or bricks. The Erivanski Place
is very handsome. Among the buildings the Palace of the governor,
the Greek and Armenian seminai-ies, and several barracks are con
spicuous. The large theatre, in the centre of the Erivanski Plaeo,
was not then finished. It is evident that the old town raust give
* Georffia -was called Iheria by the ancients. Formerly this country extended from
Tauris and Erzerum, cs far as the Tanais, and v-as called Albnnin. It is a country of
mount.-iins. The river Kurry, alfO called Cyrus, floivs throuph the mid,^f. On this river
the famous conqueror of P(-rsia, Cyrus, -was exposed in his childhood. Xiiiis -vvas formerly
one of the finest to-nms of Tcrsia. U 2

310 A woman's JOUllNET HOUND THE WOIILD.
place to the new one. Everywhere houses are being pulled down,
and new ones built ; the narrow streets will soon only be known by
tradition, and the only remains of the Oriental architecture, are the
Greek and Arraenian houses. The churches are far inferior in splen
dour and magnitude to the other buildings ; the towers are low,
round, and generally covered with green glazed tUes. The oldest
Christian chm-ch stands upon a high rock in the fortress, and is used
only for the prisoners.
The bazaars and chan present no features worthy of notice;
moreover, there are already here, as in all European towns, shops
and stores in all the streets. Several wide bridges are thrown over
the Kurry. The town contains numerous warm sulphuretted springs,
from which, indeed, it derives its name : Tiflis or Ibilissi, meaning
^'warra town." Unfortunately, the greater number of the raany
baths are in the worst condition. The buildings, within which the
springs are enclosed, are surraounted by smaU cupolas -with windows.
The reservoirs, the floor, and waUs, are for the raost part covered
with large stone slabs ; very little marble is to be seen. There are
private and public baths, and men are not allowed to enter the build- ,
ings where the women assemble ; however, they are not nearly so sti-ict
nere as in the East. The gentleraan who was so kind as to accorapany
me to one of these baths, was permitted to come into the anteroom,
although it was separated from the bathing-place only by a simple
wooden partition.
Not far from the baths lies the Botanic Garden, which has been
laid out, at great expense, on the decU-vity of a mountain. The terraces,
which had to be artificially cut, are supported by masonry and filled
with earth. Why such an unsuitable place was chosen I cannot
imagine ; the less so as I saw only a few rare plants and shrubs, and
everywhere nothuig but grape--vines ; I fancied myself in a -vineyard.
The raost reraarkable things in this garden are two vine-stocks, whose
stems were each a foot in diaraeter. They are so extended in groves
and long rows that they form pleasant walks. More than a thousand
flasks of wine are annually obtained from these two vines.
A large grotto has been excavated in one of the upper terraces
whose whole front side is open, and forms a high-arched hall. In the
fine summer evenings there is music, dancing, and even theatrical
performances. On Sundays and festivals the pretty gardens of the governor aro
opened to the public. There are swings and -winding-patiis, and two
bands of rausic. The rausic executed by the Russian raiUtary was not
so good as that which I heard by the blacks in Eio Janeiro.
When I visited the Arraenian Church, the corpse of a chUd had
just been laid out. It was in a costly open bier, covered with red
velvet and richly ornaraented with gold lace. The corpse was strewed
over with flowers, decorated with a crown, and covered with fine
white gauze. The priests, in suraptuous robes, conducted the funeral
ceremonies, which were very simUar to the CathoUc. The poor motiier,
at whose side I accidentally happened to kneel, sobbed loudly when
preparations were raade to carry away the dear remains. I also could
not restrain ray tears : I wept not for the death of fhe child, but for
tho deep grief of the afflicted parent.

TIFLIS. 311
Leaving; this place of mourning, I visited some Greek and Armenian
famiUes. 1 was received in spacious rooms, which were fitted up in
the most simple manner. Along the walls stood painted wooden
benches pai-tly covered with rugs. On these benches the people sit,
eat, and sleep. The womon wear Grecian di-esses.
European and Asiatic costumes are seen so frequently together in
the streets, that neither the one nor the other appears peculiar. The
greatest novelty to rae, in this respect, was the Circassian dress. It
consists of wide trousers, short coats full of folds, with narrow sashes,
and breast pockets for frora six to ten cartridges ; tight half-boots, with
points turned inwards, and close-fitting fur caps. The raore wealthy
wore coats of fine dark-blue cloth, and the edges were ornamented
with sUver.
The Circassians are distinguishgd from all other Caucasian people
by their beauty. Tho men are tall,, have very regular features and
great ease in thefr raotions. The woraen are of a more delicate build ;
their skin is whiter, their hair dark, their features regular, their
figures slender, with their busts well developed : in the Turkish
hareras they are considered the greatest beauties. I raust confess,
however; that I have seen raany handsoraer women in the Persian
hareras than in the Turkish, even when they contained Circassians.
The Asiatic woraen, when in the streets here, wrap theraselves in
large white raantles ; raany cover the mouth as well, and some few
the remainder of the face.
Of the domestic Ufe of the Russian officials and officers I cannot
say much. I had, indeed, a letter to the chancellor director, Herr
von LiUe, and to the govemor, Herr von Jerraalofi'; but both gentle
men were not much pleased -with me — my free expression of opinion,
perhaps, did not suit them. I made no soi-uple of speaking my mind
with regard to the ill-regulated posting estabUshments, and the miser
able roads. I, moreover, related my imprisonment, with a few com
ments; and, what crowned all, I said that I had intended to have gone
on from here across the Caucasus to Moscow and Petersburgh, but
that I had been completely deterred from doing so by my short expe
rience of fraveUing in the country, and would take the shortest road
to get beyond the frontier as soon as possible. If I had been a man
and had spoken so, I should probably have been treated with a tera
porary residence in Siberia.
Herr von Lille, however, alwaj's received me with politeness when
I called on hira for the purpose of having my passport prepared. The
governor did not treat rae with a Uke consideration ; first he put me
off from one day to another, then it pleased the mighty man to pass
two days in the country. When he came back, it was a Sunday ; on
which day such a great work could not possibly be done, and so I did
not obtain my passport until the sixth day.
Thus it fared with me, who was provided with letters to the
chief officers, — how do jioor people come oft' P I heard, indeed, that
they are often kept waiting two or three weeks.
The viceroy. Prince Woronzou, was unfortunately not in Tiflis at
the time. I regretted his absence the more, as I everywhere heard
him represented as an educated, just, and extremely amiable man.

312 A woman's joukney ROUND THE WOIILD.
Far pleasanter than these visits to the Russian governor was that
to the Persian Prince Behmen Mirza, to whom I brought letters and
inteUigence from his family, who were remaining in Tebris. Although
he was ill at the time, nevertheless he received me. I was conducted
into a large saloon, a complete hospital for eight sick persons : the
prince, fom- of his cluldren, and thi-ee wives, laid there upon rugs and
cushions. They all suffered from fever. The prince was a remarkably
handsome and powerful man of flve and thfrty ; his full eyes were
expressive of intelligence and goodness. He spoke with great regret
of his fatherland ; a smile of painful delight played round his features
when I mentioned his children,* and related how safely and well I
had traveUed through those pro-vinces which, but a short time before,
had been under his control. What a happiness would it be for Persia
if such a man as this was to come to the throne instead of the yomig
viceroy. The most interesting, and, at the same time, useful acquaintance
which I made was that of Herr Salzmann, a German. This gentleman
possesses considerable knowledge of agriculture, and raore than all, a
singularly good heart ; he interests hiraself for all kinds of people,
and raore especially his own countrymen. AVherevcr I raentioned
his name, people spoke of him with true respect. He had just received
a decoration from the Russian govemment, although he was not in
their service.
Herr Salzmann has built a very handsome house, with every pos
sible convenience for the reception of traveUers ; besides this he owns
a large fruit-garden, ten wersti distant from the to-wn, in the neigh
bourhood of which are some naptha springs. "When he found that I
wished to see these he imraediately invited rae to join a party to visit
them. The springs are situated very near to the Kurry. Square
pits, about twenty-five fathoms deep, are dug, and the naptha is
dipped out by means of wooden buckets. This naptha. however, is
of the commonest kind, of a dark brown colour, and thicker than oil.
Asphalte, cart-grease, &c., are made from it. The fine white naptha,
which can be used for Ughting and fuel, is pecuUar to the Caspian Sea.
A walk to the Chapel of David, which lies upon a hiU iramediately
in front of the to'wn, repays the trouble. Besides the lovely counfry,
there is to be seen here a fine monument erected in memory of the
Russian ambassador, Gribojetof, who was murdered in Persia on the
occasion of a revolt. A cross, at the foot of which Ues his mourning
wife, is very artistically cast in metal.
On Monday, the Sth of September, I received my passport,
about 11 o'clock; I ordered the post carriage an hour afterwards.
Herr Salzmann proposed that I should visit some German settlements,
which were situated at about ten or twenty wersti from Tiflis, and
offered to accompany me there ; but I had not much inclination to do
so, more particularly as I had heard everywhere that the settlers had
already rauch degenerated, and that idlenesss, fraud, dfrt, drunkenness,
&c., was not less frequent araong them than in the Russian colonies.
I left Tiflis about 3 in the aftemoon. Just outside tho town
stands, by the roadside, a cross cast in metal, with the eye of Provi-
* His wives I dare not speak of, as the Slussulnien consider this an affront.

CONTINUATION OF JOUENEY FROM TIFLIS. 313
dence upon a pedestal of poUshed granite, surrounded by an iron
railing. An inscription states that, on the 12th of October, in tho
year 1837, his imperial raajesty was upset here, but that he had
escaped without injury. " Erected by his grateful subjects,"
This incident appears, therefore, to have been one of the most
reraarkable in the Itfe of this powerful ruler, as it has been cora-
memorated by a monuraent. It has, certainly, not been erected
without the approval of the emperor. I am by no means certain
which is the most to be wondered at, the people who placed it here,
or the raonarch who perraitted it.
I went only one stage to-day, but it was so long, that I had to
continue my journey into the evening. To go any fm-ther was not
to be thought of, as the country, not only here, but in the greater
part of this province, is so unsafe that it is impossible to travel in the
evening or night -without the protection of Cossacks, for which pm--
pose a smaU corapany is placed at each station.
The scenery was rather agreeable ; pretty hills enclosed pleasant
looking vaUeys, and on the tops, of some mountains stood ruins of
castles and fortifled places. There were times in the history of this
kingdom as weU as the Gerraan when one noble made war upon tiie
others, and no raan was safe of his life and property. The nobles
lived in fortifled castles upon hills and mountains, went out mailed
and harnessed like knights, and when threatened by hostile attacks,
-thefr subjects fled to the castles. There are stUl said to be people
who wear, either over or under the clothes, shirts of mail, and helmets
instead of caps. I did not, however, see anything of the land. The
river Kurry continued to run along by our road. Not far ft-om the
station a long handsome bridge led across, but it was so awkwardly
placed that it was necessary to go out of the way a whole worst ta
reach it.
6th September. The journey becarae stUl raore roraantic. Bushes
and woods covered the hiUs and valleys, and the tall-stemmed, rich,
green Turkish corn waved m the fields. There were also numbers of
old castles and fortresses. Towards evening, after having with great
exertion travelled four stages, I reaehed the Uttle town of Gory,
whose situation was exceedingly charming. Wooded mountains
surrounded it in wide cfrcles, while nearer at hand rose pretty groups
of hiUs. Nearly in the centre of the mass of houses a hill v?as to be
seen, whose summit was crowned by a citadel. The little town pos
sesses some pretty churches, private houses, barracks, and a neat
hospital. Both towns and vUlages here lose the Oriental character
entirely. When the atmosphere is clear the Caucasian mountains are to be
seen rising in three ranges between the Caspian and Black seas,
forming the boundary between Asia and Europe. The highest points
are the Elberus and the Kasbeck ; these, according to a new geography,
are of the respective heights of 16,800 and 14,000 feet. The moun
tains were covered with snow far do-wn thefr sides.
7th September. To-day I traveUed one stage as far as Suram : I
could not proceed any further, as twelve horses were ordered for an
officer who was returnin gfrora a bathing-place, 'with his wife and friends.

314 . A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
Surara Ues in a fruitful valley, in the cenfre of which rises a
beautiful raountain -with the ruins of an old castle. In order to
dispel my bad humour I took a walk to tlus old castle. Although it
was considerably ruined, the lofty arches, stately waUs, and extensive
fortifications showed that the noble knight had lived tolerably sump
tuously. On the return nothing astonished me raore than the number
of animals yoked to the ploughs. The fields lay in the finest plains,
the ground was loose and free from stones, and yet each plough was
drawn by twelve or fourteen oxen.
Sth September. The mountains drew nearer and nearer together,
the prospect becarae more beautiful ; cUmbing plants, -wild hops, -vines,
&c., twined round the trees to thefr highest branches, and the under
wood grew so thick and luxuriantly, that it caUed to my mind the
vegetation of tho SrazUs.
The third stage was for the greater part of the way along the
banks of the river Mfrabka through a narrow valley. The road be
tween the river and the mountain side was so narrow, that in many
places there was only room for one carriage. We had fi-equently to
wait ten or twenty minutes to allow the cars loaded with wood, of
which we met a great number, to pass us, and yet this was aUed
a post-road. Georgia has been for fifty year under Russian doinion, and
only within a recent time have roads been commenced here and there.
Fifty years hence they may, perhaps, be finished, or fallen again into
decay. Bridges are as scarce as roads. The rivers, such as the
Mirabka are crossed in raiserable ferry boats, those which are
shallower raust be forded. In time of rain, or sudden thaw in the
snow mountains, the rivers are overflowed, and traveUers raust then
either wait some days or risk their lives. What a treraendous
difference between the colonies of Russia and England !
Late in the evening, 1 arrived, wet through and covered with raud,
at the station, two wersti frora Kutais. It is reraarkable that the
post-houses are generally one or two wersti frora the viUages or
towns. A traveller, in consequence of this custom, is exposed to the-
inconvenience of making a special joumey if he has anything to
attend to iu those places.
9th September. Kutais contains 10,000 inhabitants, and lies in a
natural park; all round is the raost luxuriant vegetation. The houses
are neat and ornaraental ; the green painted chm-ch towers and bar
racks peep invitingly from between. The large river Ribon * separates
the town frora the large citadel which very picturesquely occupies a
neighbouring hill.
The dresses of the people are as various as round Tiflis ; the head
gear of the MingreUan peasants appears truly coraic. 'They wear
round black felt caps, in the shape of a plate, fastened by a sfring
under the chin. The womon frequently wear the Tartarian sehaube>
over which they thi-ow a veil, which, however, is put back so that the
face is seen. 'The men wear, in the mornings, and in rainy weati;er»
• The River Ribon, also called llione. is considered to be one of the four rivers of
Paradise, and was kno-wn by the name of Pison. Its waters w-ere formerly held sacred..
On account of the number of trunks of trees, it is unnavigable for large ships.

KUTAIS— MARAND. 3>5
lai-ge black collars (called bui-ki) of sheep's wool, or felt, which reach
below the knees. I must here mention that the beauty for which tho
Georgians are so famous must not be sought for among the comraon
peoule. I did not find them particularly handsome.
^he carts which the peasants use are remarkable, the front part.
rests upon curved pieces of wood, or sledge-bai-s ; the hinder part upoQ
two smaU thick discs of wood.
My stay in Kutais was caused by tho want of horses ; it was not
till 2 o'clock in the afternoon that I could continue my journey. I had
two stages to reach the village of Maraud, -which lies on the river
Ribon, where the post-cars are changed for a boat, by which tho
journey to Redutkale, on the Black Sea, is made.
The first stage passes chiefly tlu-ough fine woods, the second pre
sents an open -\-iew over fields and meadows ; the houses and hut,s are
quite bm-ied beneath bushes and trees. We met a number of peasants
who, although they had only a few fowls, eggs, fi-uits, &c., to carry to
the town for sale, were nevertheless on horseback. There was abun
dance of grass and wUlow frees, and consequently of horses and horned
cattle. At Marand I stopped, for want of an inn, with a Cossack. These
people, who also Uve here as settlers, have pretty wooden cottages,
with two or three rooms, and a piece of land which they use as field
and garden. Some of them receive travellers, and know how to charge
enough for the miserable accommodation they afford. I paid twenty
kopecs (8d.) for a dfrty room -without a bed, and as rauch for a
chicken. Beyond that I had nothing, for the people are too lazy to
fetch what they have not by them. If I wanted bread, or anything ,
that my hosts had not got, I raight seek for it myself. As I have said
before, it is only for an officer that they wiU make any exertion.
I had left Tiflis about 3 in the afternoon of the 5th of September,
and reached this place in the evening of the 9th, five days to travel
274 wersti (195 nules). I caU that a respectable Russian post!
The boat did not start for Redutkale, a distance of eighty wersti,
until the morning of the llth. It was bad weather ; and the Ribon,
otherwise a fine river, cannot be navigated during a sfrong wind, on
account of the projecting trunks of trees and logs. The scenery still
continued beautiful and picturesque. The stream flows between
woods, maize, and raUlet fields, and the view extends over hills and
mountains to the distant and gigantic Caucasus. Thefr singular
forms, peaks, sunken plateaus, split domes, &c. appear sometimes on
the right, sometimes on the left, in front, and behind, according to-
the ever-changing windings of the river. We frequently halted and
landed, every one running to the trees. Grapes and figs were abun
dant, but the former were as sour as vinegar, and the latter hard and
small. I found a single one ripe, and that I threw away when I had
tasted it. The fig-trees were of a size such as I had never seen, either
in India or Sicily. I believe the whole sap is here converted into-
wood and leaves. In the sarae way, the great height of the vines
may be the cause of the grapes being so small and bad. There must
certainly be a great field for improved cultivation here.
12th September. Our boat did not go far. There was a smart

316 A WOMAN S JOURNEY ROUND THE WOKLD.
breeze, and as we were afready near the Black Sea, -we were obUged
to remain at anchor.
13th September. The wind had dropped, and we could, without
danger, trust ourselves on the sea, upon which we had to sail for some
hours, from the principal arm of the Ribon to that on which Redut
kale was situated. There was indeed a canal leading from the one
to the other, but it can only be passed at very high water, as it is
much filled with drift sand.
In Redutkale, a speculating Cossack host also received me, who
had three little rooms for guests.
According to the Russian calendar, this was the last day of
August. On the 1st of September, the steamer was to come, and saU
again after two hours. I therefore hastened to the commandant of
the town to have my passport signed, and to request admittance to
the ship. Government steamers ply twice every month, on the 1st
and 15th, from Redutkale to Odessa, by way of Kertsch. Sailing
vessels rarely offer an opportunity of passage. These stearaers always
keep close into the coast ; they touch at eighteen stations (forfresses
and miUtary posts), carry miUtary transports of all kinds, and convey
aU passengers free. 'TraveUers must, however, be content with a deck
place : the cabins are few, and belong to the crew and higher officers,
who frequently travel from one station to another. No places can be
had by paying for them.
The coramandant prepared my passport and ticket directly. I
cannot avoid remarking in this place that the prolixity of writing by
the Russian government officials far exceeds that of the Austrians,
which I had formerly considered impossible. Instead of a simple sig
nature, I received a large written sheet, of which several copies were
taken, the whole ceremony occupying more than half an hour.
The steamer did not arrive until the Sth (Russian calendar).
Nothing is more tedious than to wait from hom- to hour for a convey
ance, especially when it is necessary, in addition, to be ready to start
at any moraent. Every morning 1 packed up. I did not venture to
cook a fowl or anything else, for fear I should be caUed away from
it as soon as ready ; and it was not untU the evening that I felt a
Uttle safer, and could walk out a Uttle.
From what I could see of the neighbourhood of Redutkale and
Mingrelia altogether, the countiy is plentifully furnished with hUls
and mountains, large valleys lie between, and the whole are covered
with rich woods. The afr is on that account moist and unhealthy,
and it rains very frequently. The rising sun draws up such dense
vapours, that they float Uke impenetrable clouds, four or five feet
above the earth. These vapours are said to be the cause of many
diseases, especially fever and dropsy. In addition to this, the people
are so foolish as to build their houses in among the bushes and under
thick trees, instead of in open, airy, and sunny places. Villages are
frequently passed, and scarcely a house is to be seen. The men are
remarkably idle and stupid ; they are tawny and lean. The natives
seldom reach the age of sixty ; and it is said that tho climate is even
more unhealthy for strangers.
StUl I beUeve that much might be done iu this country by Indus-

REDUTKALE. 317
frious settlers and agriculturists. There is abundance of land, and
thi-ee-fom-ths of it certainly Ues uncultivated. By thinning the woods
and di-aining the land, the badness of the climate would be lessened.
It is already, even without cultivation, very fruitful ; and how much
this might be increased by a proper and rational mode of freatment.
Rich grass grows everywhere, mixed with the best herbs and clover.
Fruit grows wUd ; the vines run up to the tops of the highest trees.
It is said that in time of rain the gi-ound is so soft, that only wooden
ploughs are used. Turkish com is most generally grown, and a kind
of mUlet, caUed gora.
The inhabitants prepare the -n-ine in the most simple manner.
They hoUow out the fr-unk ofa tree, and ti-ead the grapes in it; they
then pour the juice into earthen vessels, and bury these in the ground.
The character of the MingrcUans is said to be altogether bad, and
they are generaUy looked upon as thieves and robbers ; murders are
said not to be unfrequent. They carry off one another's wives, and
ai-e much addicted to drunkenness. The father ti-ains the chUdren to
stealing, and the mother to obscenity.
Colchis or MingreUa Ues at the end of the Black Sea, and towards
the north on the Caucasian moimtains. The neighbouring people
were formerly known under the name of Huns and Alani. The
Amazons are said to have dwelt in the countiy between the Caucasus
and the Caspian Sea.
The Uttie town of Redutkale may contain about 1,500 inhabitants.
The men are so indolent that, during the five days that I passed here,
I could not procure a few grapes or figs for love or money. I went
daUy to the bazaar, and never found any for sale. The people are too
lazy to bring wood from the forest ; they work only when the great
est necessity compels them, and requfre to be paid exorbitantly. I
paid as much, if not more, for eggs, milk, and bread as I would have
done in Vienna. It inight well be said that the people are here in
the midst of plenty, and yet almost starve.
I was not better pleased by the thoughtless and meaningless per
formance of religious cereraonies among these people. On aU occa
sions, they cross themselves before eating or drinking, before entering
a roora, before putting on an article of clothing, &c. The hands have
nothing else to do but to make crosses. But the raost provoking
thing of aU is, that they stand stUl before every church they pass,
bow half a dozen times, and cross themselves without end. AVhen
they are fraveUing, they stop thefr caniages to perform this cere
mony ¦\ATiUe I was at Redutkale a vessel sailed. The priests were
brought on board, and were obUged to go aU over the ship, and pro
nounce a blessing upon it on every comer of the sails. They crept
into every cabin or hole, and at last blessed the saUors, who laughed
at thera for thefr trouble.
I constantiy found that there was less real reUgion in those places
where there was the most parade made of it.

CHAPTER xxm.
EUROPEAN RUSSIA.
Departure from Redutkale — Attack op Cholera — Akafka — Suspicious Ship —
Kertsch — The Museum — Tumuli — Continuation of the Journey — Theodosia
(Caffa) — Prince WoronzofF's Palace — The I-'orteess of Se-wastopol — Odessa.
On the 17th of September, at 9 in the morning-, the steamer arrived,
and an hour afterwards I was seated on the deck. The vessel was
called Maladetz; it was 140 horse power, and the commandant's
name was Zorin,
The distance from Redutkale to Kertsch is only 420 miles in a
straight line, but for us, who continually kept close to the shore, it
araounted to nearly 580.
The view of the Caucasus — the hills and headlands — the rich and
luxuriant country remains fresh in my meraory to this day. In a
charming valley lies the village Gallansur, the first station, at which
we stopped for a short time.
Towards 6 o'clock in the evening, we reached the fortifled town
Sahun, which lies partly on the shore, and partly on a broad hill.
Here I saw, for the first time, Cossacks in full uniform ; all those I
had previously seen were very badly dressed, and had no railitary
appearance ; they wore loose linen trousers, and long ugly coats,
reaching down to their heels. These, however, wore close-fitting
spencers with breast-pockets, each of which was divided for eight
cartridges, wide trousers, which sat in folds upon the upper part of
the body, and dark blue cloth caps, triraraed with fur. They rowed
a staff-officer to the ship.
18th Septeraber. We remained the whole day in Sahun. The
coal-boats, from sorae inconceivable negligence, had not arrived ; the
coals wore taken on board after we had been some time at anclior,
and our supply was not completed until 6 o'clock in the evening,
when we again started.
19th September. During the night there was much storm and
rain. I begged permission to seat myself on the cabin steps, whioh I
received ; but, after'a few rainutes, an order came from the coraraandant
to take me under cover. I was much sm-prised and pleased at this
politeness, but I was soon undeceived when I was led into the large
sailors' cabin. The people smelt horribly of brandy, and some of
them had evidently taken too much. I hastened back on to the
deck, where, in spite of the raging of the elements, I felt more cora
fortable than among these well-bred Christians.
In the course of the day we stopped at Bambur, Pizunta, Gagri,
Adlar, and other places. Near Bambur I observed majestic groups
of rocks.

ATTACK OF CHOLERA. 319
20th September. The Caucasian mountains wore now out of
sight, and the thick woods were also succeeded by wide open spaces.
We were still troubled with wind, storm, and rain.
The engineer ofthe ship, an EngUshman, Mr. Piatt, had accidentally
heard of my joumey (perhaps frora ray passport, which I had to give
up on entering the ship) ; he introduced himself to me to-day, and
offered me the use of his cabin during the day-time ; he also spoke
to one of the officers for me, and succeeded in obtaining a cabin for me.
which, although it joined the sailors' cabin, was separated from it bj
a door. I was very thankful to both the gentlemen for their kind
ness, which was the greater, as the preference was given to me, a
stranger, over the Russian officers, of whom at least half a dozen
were on deck.
We remained a long time at Sissasse. This is an important
station ; there is a fine fortress upon a hiU — round it stand pretty
wooden houses.
21st Septeraber. This was a terrible night ! One of the sailors,
who was healthy and well the day before, and had taken his supper
with a good appetite, was suddenly attacked with cholera. The
cries of the poor fellow disturbed me greatly, and I went upon
deck, but the hea-vy rain and piercing cold were not less terrible. I
had nothing but my mantle, which was soon wet through ; my teeth
chattered ; the frost made rae shake throughout; so there was nothing
to be done but to go below again — to stop my ears, and reraain close
to the dying raan. He was, in spite of all help, a corpse before the
end of eight hours. The dead body was landed in the morning, at
Bschada ; it was packed in a heap of sail-cloth, and kept secret from
the travellers. The cabui was thoroughly washed with vinegar, and
scoured, and no one else was attacked.
I did not at all wonder that there was sickness on board, only I
had expected it would be araong the poor soldiers, who were day and
night upon the deck, and had no further food than dry, black bread,
and had not even mantles or covering ; I saw many half-frozen from
cold, dripping with rain, gnawing a piece of bread : how rauch greater
suffering must they have to undergo in the winter time ! The pas
sage from Redutkale to Kertsch, I was told, then frequently occupied
twenty days. The sea is so rough that it is difflcult to reach the
stations, and sometimes the ship lies for days opposite them. If it
should happen that a poor soldier has to proceed the whole distance,
it is really a wonder that he should reach the place of his destination
alive. According to the Russian system, however, the common man is
not worthy of any consideration.
The sailors are indeed better, but, nevertheless, not well provided
for ; they receive bread and spirits, a very small quantity of meat,
and a soup made of sour cabbage, called bartsch, twice a day
The number of officers, their wives, and soldiers on the deck, in
creased at every station, very few being landed from the ship.
The deck was soon so covered with furniture, chests, and trunks,
that there was scarcely a place to sit down, except on the top of a
pile of goods. I never saw such an encampment on board a ship.
In fine weather, this life afforded me much amusement; there was

320 A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
al-ways something new to see ; every one was animated and happy,
and appeared to iDelong to the same famUy ; but if a heavy rain came
on suddenly, or a wave washed over the deck, the passengers began to
shout and cry, and the contents of every chest became public. One
cried, " How shall I shelter my sugar-loaves ?" another, " Oh, my meal
will be spoiled." There a woman complained that her bonnet would
be full of spots ; here, another, that the uniform of her husband would
certainly be inj ured.
At some of the smaller stations, we had taken on board sick
soldiers, in order to carry them to the hospital at Kertsch. This was
done, as I was told, less on account of nm-sing them than as a mea
sure of safety. The former they would have received at the place
they carae from ; but all the small villages between Redutkale and
Anapka are still frequently disturbed by the Cfrcassian -Tartars, who
undauntedly break out from the mountains and rob and raurder.
Very lately they were reported to have fired a cannon at one of the
government steamers. 'The Circassians* are as partial to the
Russians as the Chinese are to the English !
'The poor invalids -were also laid on the deck, and but little atten
tion was shown to thera, beyond stretching a sail-cloth over thera, to
keep the wind partially oft' ; but when it rained heavily, the water
ran in on all sides, so that they lay half in the wet.
22nd Septeraber. We saw the handsome town and forti-ess
Nowa Russiska, which contains some yery pretty private houses,
hospitals, barracks, and a fine church. The to-wn and fortress lie
upon a hill, and were founded only ten years since.
In the evening, we reached Anapka, whioh place was taken by
the Turks in 1829. Here the finely wooded mountains and hills, and
the somewhat desolate steppes f of the Crimea comraence.
In tiie course of the day I had an opportunity of observing the
watchfulness and penetration of our commandant. A sailing-vessel
was quietly at anchor in a sraaU creek. The commandant, perceiving
it, immediately ordered the stearaer to stop, ordered out a boat, and
sent an officer to see what it was doing there. So far everything had
gone correctly ; for in Russia, where the limits of every foreign fly is
known, what a whole ship is about, raust also be seen to. But no\V
comes the comical part of the affair. The officer went near the ship,
but did not board it, and did not ask for the ship's papers, but
merely called out to the captain to know what he was about there ?
The captain answered that contrary winds had compelled him to
anchor there, and that he waited for a favourable one to sail to this
place and that. This answer satisfied the offlcer and the coraraand
ant corapletely. To rae it seeraed just as if any one was asked whether
he was an honourable man or a rogue, and then frusted to his honour
when he gave himself a good character.
23rd September. Another bad night; notiiing but wind and rain.
• The Cii-cassians are so -vv-ild and warlike that no one dare venture into the interior
tif the counlry. Little is known of their habits, customs, or religion. Bordering on
Circassia are the Atkans, who inhabit the coast countfry bet-ween Min^elia and Circassia,
and are also wild and gi%-cn to plunder.
-t Large plains covered with short ijrass.

KERTSCH. 321
How I pitied tho poor, sick fellows, and even those who wore well,
exposed to this weather on the declv.
Towards noon wo arrived at Kertsch ; the town can be seen very
well from the soa, as it stretches out in a semi-circle on the shore,
and rises a little up the hill ^Mithridates, which lies behind. Higher
up the hUl is the museum, in the style of a Grecian temple — circular,
and surrounded with columns. The summit of the mountain ends in
a fine group of rocks, between which stand some obelisks and monu
ments, whioh belong to the old burial-place. Tho country round is a
steppe, covered with artificial earth-mounds, which make the graves
of a very remote period. Besides the Mithridates, there is no hUl or
mountain to be seen.
Kertsch Ues partly on the spot where Pan tikapaura formerly stood.
It is now included in the government of Tauria ; it is fortifled, has
a safe harbour, and rather considerable coraraerce. Tho population
amounts to 12,000. The town contains many fine houses, which are
chiefly of modern date ; the streets are broad, and furnished with
raised pavements for foot passengers. There is much gaiety in the two
squares on Sundays and festivals. A raarket of every possible thing,
but especially provisions, is held there. The extraordinary vulgarity
and rudeness of the common people sti-uck me greatly ; on all sides I
heard only abuse, shouting, and cursing. 'To my astonishment I
saw dromedaries yoked to many loaded carts.
The Mithridates is 500 feet high, and beautiful flights of stone
steps and winding paths lead up its sides, forming the only walks of
the towns' people. This hill must formerly have been used by the
ancients as a burial-place, for everywhere, if the earth is only scraped
away, small narrow sarcophagi, consistmg of four stone slabs, are
found. The view frora the top is extensive, but tame ; on three sides
a freeless steppe, whose monotony is broken only by innumerable
tumuU ; and on the fourth side, the sea. The sight of that is every
where fiue, and here the more so, as one sea joins another, namely,
the Black Sea and the Sea of Asoph.
There was a tolerable number of ships in the roads, but very far
short of four or six hundred, as the statements in the newspapers
gave out, and as I had hoped to see.
On ray retum, I visited the Museum, -«'hich consists of a single
apartment. It contains a few curiosities from the tumuli, but every
thing handsome and costly that was found was taken to the Museum at
St. Petersburgh. The remains of sculptures, bas-reliefs, sarcophagi,
and epitaphs are very rauch decayed. V/hat remains of the statues
indicates a high state of art. The most important thin gin the Museum
•is a sarcophagus of white marble, which, although much dilapi
dated, is still very beautiful. 'Ihe exterior is full with fine reliefs,
especially on one side, where a figure, in the form of an angel, is
represented holding two garlands of fruit together over its head. On
the Ud of the sarcophagus are two figures in a reclining posture.
• Mithridates lived in Pantikapaum. The hill at Kertsch is called to this day "Mithri
dates' Seat. During the excavations in it, which have been made since 1832, mauy
remain.* were found, such as funeral urns, implements of sacrifLco, Grecian inscriptions,
handsome flgures, and groups.

322 A WOMANS JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
The heads are wanting ; but all the other parts, the bodies, their
position, and the draping of the garments, are executed in a masterly
manner. Another sarcophagus of wood, shows great perfection in the carving
and turning of the wood.
A collection of earthen jars, water-jugs and lamps, called to my
mind those in the museum at Naples. The jars, burnt and painted
brown, have a form similar to those discovered at Herculaneum and
PorapeU. The water-jugs are furnished with two ears, and are so
pointed at the bottom, that they -will not stand unless rested against
something. This form of vessel is still used in Persia. Among other
glass-ware, there were some fiasks which consisted alraost entfrely of
long neeks, bracelets, rings and necklaces of gold ; sorae sraall four-
cornered embossed sheets, which were worn either on the head or
chest, and some crowns, raade of laurel wreaths, were very elegant.
There were chains and cauldrons in copper, and ugly grotesque faces
and omaments of various kinds, which were probably fixed on the
exterior of the houses. I saw some coins whioh were reraarkably
well staraped.
I had now to visit the tumuli. I sought long and in vain for a
guide : very few strangers come to this place, and there are conse
quently no regular guides. At last there was nothing left for me
but to apply to the Austrian Vice-consul, Herr NicoUts. This gentle
man was not only wUling to comply with my wish, but was even so
obliging as to accompany me hiraself.
'The tumuli are monuments of an entirely peculiar character;
they consist of a passage about sixty feet long, fourteen broad, and
twenty-five high, and a very small chamber at the end of the passage.
The walls of the passage are sloping, like the roof of a house, and
contract so ranch at the top, that at the utraost one foot is left
between. They are buUt of long and very thick stone slabs, which
are placed over each other in such a way that the upper row projects
about six or seven inches beyond the under one. Upon the opening
at the top are placed massive slabs of stone. Looking do-wn from the
entrance, the walls appear as if fluted. The roora, which is a
lengthened quadrangle, is spanned by a sraall arched roof, and is
built in the sarae raanner as the passage. After the sarcophagus
was deposited in the roora, the whole raonument was covered with
earth. The fine marble sarcophagus which is in the Museum, was taken
froin a tumulus which was situated near the quarantine house, and is
considered to be that of King Bentik.
The greater number of the monuments were opened by the Turks;
the remainder were uncovered by the Russian government. Many
of the bodies were found ornamented with jewels and crowns of
leaves, Uke those in the Museum ; an abundance of coins was also
found. The 26th of September was a great festival among the Russians,
who celebrated the finding of the cross. The people brought bread,
pastry, fruit, &c., to the church, by way of sacrifice. The whole of
these things were laid up in one comer. After the service, the priest

ON BOARD A RfSSLiN STEAMEE. SJ3
blessed them, gave some few morsels to the beggars round him, and
had the remainder packed into a large basket and sent to his house.
In the aftemoon, nearly the whole of the people went to the burial-
ground. The common people took provisions -with them, which
were also blessed by the priests, but were hastUy consumed by the
owners. I saw only a few petrie iu the Russian dress. This consists, both
for men and women, of long wide blue cloth coats ; the men wear
low felt hats, with broad brims, and have thefr hair cut even aU
round; the women bind smaU sUk kerchiefs round thefr heads.
Before finishing my account of Kertsch, I must mention that there
are naptha springs in the neighbourhood ; but I did not -visit them, as
they were described to me as precisely simUar to those at Tiflis.
The next part of my joumey was to Odessa. I could go either
by sea or land. The latter was said to present many objects of beauty
and interest ; bnt I preferred the former, as I had in the first place
no great admfration of the Russian post ; and, secondly, I was
heartUy anxious to tum my back npon the Russian frontiers.
On the 27th of September, at 8 in the moming, I went on board
the Russian steamer Daigo, of 100 horse power. The distance trom.
Odessa to Constantinople amounts to 420 nules. The vessel was
handsome and very clean, and the fare very moderate. I paid for the
second cabin thirteen sUver roubles, or twenty florins flffy kreutzers
(£2 Is. id.) The only thing which did not please me in the Russian
steamer, was the too great attention of the steward who, as I was
told, pays for his office. AU the traveUers are compeUed to take
thefr meals with him, the poor deck passengers not excepted, who
have often to pay bim thefr last kopecs.
Abont afternoon we came to Feodosia (Cafia), which was formerly
the largest and most important town in the Crimea, and was eaUed
the second Constantinople. It was at the height of its prosperity
about the end of the fifteenth century, under the dominion of Genue-
ser. Its population at that time is said to have been upwards of
200,000. It has now declined to a minor to'wn, with 5,000 inhabi
tants. Half -mined fortification walls and towers of the tirae of Genueser
remain, as weU as a fine mosque, which has been turned into a Chris
tian church by the Russians.
The town Ues upon a large bay of the Black Sea, on the decUvity
of barren hiUs. Pretty gardens between the houses form the only
vegetation to be seen.
28th September. We stopped this moming at Jalta, a very small
¦village, containing 500 inhabitants, and a handsome church founded
by the Prince Woronzoff. It is bnUt in pure Gothic style, and stands
-upon a bill outside of the -village. ITie coimtry is again delightful
here, and beautiful hUls and mountains, partly covered -with fine
-woods, partly rising in steep precipices, extend close to the sea-shore.
The steamer stayed twenty-four hours at Jalta. I took advantage
of the time to make an excursion to Alupka, one of the estates of
Prince Woronzoff, famous for a castie which is considered one of the
curiosities of the Crimea. The road to it passed over low ranges of
? T

3St A woman's JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
hUls close to the sea through a true natural park, which had here and
there been erabellished by the help of art. Tho most elegant castles
and country-houses belonging to the Russian nobles are seated
between woods and groves, gardens and vineyards, in open spaces
on hills and declivities. 'The whole prospect is so charming, that it
appears as if prosperity, happiness, and peace, only reigned here.
The first viUa which attracted me was that of Count Leo Potocki.
The buUding is exfremely tasteful. The gardens were laid out with
art and sumptuousness. The situation is delightful, with an extensive
view of the sea and neighbourhood.
A second magnificent buUding, which, however, is more remark
able for magnitude than beauty of construction, Ues near the sea-shore.
It resembles an ordinary square house with several stories; and, as I
was informed, was buUt as a country bathing-place of the emperor,
but had not yet been made use of. 'This castle is called Oriander.
Far handsomer than this palace was the charraing country-house
of Prince Mirzewsky. It is seated on a hiU, in the centre of a mag
nificent park, and affords a deUghtful yiew of the mountains and sea.
The principal front is Gothic.
The villa of Prince GalUzin is built entfrely in the Gothic style.
The pointed windows, and two towers of which, decorated with a
cross, give to it the appearance of a church, and the beholder involun
tarily looks for the town to which this gorgeous building belongs.
'This place lies nearly at the exfremity of the fine country. From
here the trees are replaced by dwarf bushes, and finaUy by brambles;
the velvety-green turf is succeeded by stony ground, and steep rocks
rise behind, at the foot of whioh lie a quantity of fallen fi-agments.
Even here very pretty seats are to be seen ; but tiiey are entfrely
artificial, and want the charm of natm-e.
After fraveUing about thirteen wersti, the road winds round a
stony hiU, and the castie of Prince Woronzoff comes in sight in its
entire extent. The appearance of it is not by any raeans so fine as I
had imagined. The castle is built entfrely of stone, of the sarae colour
as the neighbouring rocks. If a large park surrounded the castle, it
would stand out more prominently, and the beauty and magnificence
of its architecture would be better shown. 'There is, indeed, a well
laid out garden, but it is yet new and not very extensive. The head
gardener, Herr Kebach (a German), is a master in his art; he weU
knows how to manage the naked barren land, so that it -will bear not
only the ordinary fr-ees, plants, and flowers, but even the choicest
exotic plants.
The castie is built in the Gothic style, and is fuU of towers, pin
nacles, and butfresses, such as are seen in simUar weU- preserved bmld
ings of olden time. The principal front is turned towards the sea.
Two lions, in Carrara marble, artisticaUy sculptured, Ue m comfort
able ease at the top of the majestic flight of steps which lead from
the castle far down to the sea-shore.
The interior arrangement of the castle reminded me of tho
" Arabian Nights ;" every costly thing from all parts of the world,
such as fine woods and choice works of art, is to be seen here in the
greatest perfection and splendour. There are state apartments ia

THE CASTLE OF PElSCE WOBONZOrF. 3-»
Oriental. Chinese, Persian, and Em-opean styles ; and, above aU, a
garden s;iloon, which is quite nnique, for it not only contains the
finest and rarest flowers bnt even the tidiest trees. Palms, with
thefr rich leafy crowns, extend to a great height, dimbing planta
cover the walls, and on all sides are flowers and blossoms. The
most dehghtful odour difiiised itself through the afr, cushioned
divans stood half-buried under the floating leaves ; in fact, everything
comlined to piodoce iiie most magieal impression upon tiie senses.
The owner of this fairy palace was nnfortnnately absent at a ffite
on a neighbonring estate. 1 had letters to him. and should have
been glad t<> have made his acquaintance, as I had hescrdhim spoken
of here, both by rich and poor, as a most noble, just and generous
man. I was, indeed, persuaded to wait his return, but I could not
accept this ofi'er, as I should have had to wait eight days for the
ani^l of the next steamer, and my time was afready very limited.
In tiie neighbourhood of the castie is a Tartar viUage, of whieh
there are many in tiie Crimea. The houses are remarkable for thefr
flat earth roofs, wMdi are more used by the inhabitants than the
interior of the hnts ; as the climate is mUd and fine they pass the
whole day at thefr wtak on tiieroofe, and at night sleep there. The
dress of the men differs somewhat from that of the EnssLon peasants^
the women dress in the Oriental fashion, and have thefr faces un
covered. I never saw such admirably planted and dean 'vineyards as here.
The grapes are very sweet, and of a good flavour ; the wine light and
good, and perfectly suited for Tnalrin^ champagne, which indeed is
sometimes done. I iras told that more than a hnndred kinds of
grapes are grown in the gardens of Prince Woronzoff".
When I retamed to Jalta, I was obUged to wait more than two
honr?, 35 the gentlemen with whom I was to go on board had not
vet finished thefr carouse. At last, when they broke np, one of
them, an officer of the steamer, was so mnch intoxicated that he
conld not walk. Two of his companions and the landlord dragged
him to the shore. The jolly-boat of the steamer was indeed there,.
bnt the saUors refiised to take ns, as the joUy-boat was ordered for
the captain. We were obUged to hfre a beat, for which each had to
p«y twenty topees (Sd.) The gentlemea knew that I did not speak
JSossian, bat they did not think I partiaUy understood the language.
I, however, overheard one of them say to the other '- 1 have no
change -with me, let us leave the woman to pay." Upon this the
other turned round to me, and said in French, " The share that you
have to pay is twenty silver kopecs." These were gentiemen who
made pretensMms to honesty and honour.
29th September. To-diy we stopped at ihe sfrong and beautiful
fortress SewastopoL The works are partly situated at the enfrance
of the harbour, and partly in the harbour itself ; they are executed
in massive stone, and possess a nmnber of towers and outworks
which defend the entrance to the harbour. The harbour itself is
almost entirely surrounded by hills, and is one of the safest and
most exceUent in the world. It can hold the largest fleets, and is so
&ep that fhe most gigantic men-of-war can Ue at anchor close to fhe
y2

3-:8 A woman's JOURNEY EOTTND THE WOELD.
quays. Sluices, docks and quays have been constructed in unUmited
splendour and magnificence. The whole of the works were not quite
finished, and there was an unparalleled activity apparent. Thou
sands of men were busy on all sides. Among the workmen I was
shown many of the captured PoUsh nobles who had been sent here
as a punishment for thefr attempt, in 1831, to shake of the
Russian yoke.
The works of the fortress and the barracks are so large that they
wUl hold about 30,000 men.
The town itself is modern, and stands npon a range of barren
hiUs. The most attractive among the buUdings is the Greek church,
as it stands quite alone on a hiU, and is built iu the style of a Grecian
temple. The library is situated on the highest ground. There is
also an open-columned haU near the club, with stone steps leading
to the sea-shore, which serves as the most convenient passage to the
town for those who land here. A gothic monument to the memory
of Captain Cozar, who distinguished himself greatly at the battle of
Navarino, and was killed there, does not less excite the curiosity
of the traveUer. Lfke the church, it stands alone upon a hill.
The streets here, as in aU the new Eussian towns, are broad and
clean. soth September. Early in the moming we reached Odessa. The
town looks very well from the sea. It stands high ; and conse
quently many of the large and truly fine buUdings can be seen at
one glance. Among these are the Palace of Prince Woronzoff, the
Exchange, the govemment offices, several large barracks, the quaran
tine buUdings, and many fine private houses. Although the sur
rounding country is flat and barren, the number of gardens and
avenues in the town give it a pleasant appearance. In the harbour
was a perfeot forest of masts. By far the greater number of ships
do not lie here, but in the quarantine harbour. Most of the ships
come from the Turkish shore, and are obUged to pass through a
quarantine of fourteen days, whether they have Ulness on board or
not. Odessa, the chief town of the govemment of Cherson, is, from its
situation on the Black Sea, and at the mouth of the Dniester and
Dnieper, one of the most important places of commerce in South
Eussia. It contains 80,000 inhabitants, was founded in 1794, and
declared a free port in 1817. A fine citadel entfrely commands the
harbour. The Duke of Eichelieu contributed most to the advancement of
Odessa ; for after having made several campaigns against his native
country (France) in an emigrant corps, he went to Eussia ; and in
1803 was raade governor-general of Cherson. He fiUed this post
until 1814, during which tirae he brought the town to its present
position. When he was appointed it contained scarcely 5,000 inha
bitants. One of the finest streets bears the name of the duke, and
several squares are also named in honour of him.
I remained only two days in Odessa. On the thfrd I started by
the steamer for Constantinople. I went through the town and
suburbs in every dfrection. The finest part lies towards the sea.

ODESSA. 327
especiaUy the boulevai-d, which is furnished with fine avenues of trees,
and offers a deUghtful promenade ; a life-size statue of the Duke
EicheUeu forms a fine ornament to it. Broad flights of stone steps
lead from here down to the sea-shore ; and in the background ar»
rows of handsome palaces and houses. The most remarkable among
them are the Government House, the Hotel St. Petersburgh, and
the Palace of Prince Woronzoff, btiilt in the Italian style, with a
tasteful garden adjoining. At the opposite end of the boulevard is
the Exchange, also buUt in the ItaUan style, and surrounded by a
garden. Not far from this is the Academy of Arts, a rather medi
ocre one-story buUding. The Theatre, with a fine portico, promises
much outside, but is nothing great within. Next to the theatre is
the Palais Eoyal, which consists of a pretty garden, round which
are ranged large handsome shops, fiUed with costly goods. Many
articles are also hung out, but the arrangement is not near so
tasteful as is the case in Vienna or Hamburgh.
Among the churches the Eussian cathedral is the most striking.
It has a lofty arched nave and a fine dome. The nave rests upon
strong columns covered with briUiant white plaster, which looks like
marble. The decorations of the churches with pictures, lamps, and
lustres, &c., is rich bnt not artistic. This was the first church in
which I found stoves, and really it was quite necessary that these
should be used, the difference of temperature between this place and
Jalta was very considerable for the short distance.
A second Eussian church stands in the new bazaar ; it has a large
dome surrounded by four smaUer ones, and has a very fine appear
ance from the exterior; inside it is sraaU and plain.
The CathoUc church, not yet quite finished, vies in point of archi
tecture with the Eussian cathedral.
The sfreets are aU broad, handsome, and regular, it is almost
impossible to lose your way m tms town. In every street there are
fine large houses, and this is the case even in the most remote parts
as weU. In the interior of the tovm lies the so-caUed " crown garden,"
which is not, indeed, very large or handsome, but stUl affords sorae
amusement, as great numbers of people assemble here on Sundays,
and festivals, and a very good band of music plays here in sumraer
under a tent; in winter the performances take place in a plain
room. The botanic garden, three wersti from the town, has few exotic
plants, and is much neglected. The autumn changes, which I again
saw here for the first time, for some years, made a tmly sad impres
sion upon me. I could almost have envied the people who Uve in
hot climates, although the heat is very troublesome.
The German language is understood by almost all but the lowest
orders in Odessa.
On leaving the Eussian dominions I had as much frouble with
the passport regulations as on entering. The passport which was
obtained on entering must he changed for another for which two
silver roubles are paid. Besides this, the traveUer's name has to be
three times printod in the newspaper, so that if he has debts, his

83S A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THE VVOELD.
creditors may know of his departure. With these delays it takes at
least eight days, frequently, however, two or three weeks to get
away ; it is not, however, necessary to wait for these forms, if the
traveUer provides security.
The Ausfrian Consul, Herr Gutenthal, answered for me, and I
was thus able to bid adieu to Eussia on the 2nd of October. That
I did this with a light heart it is not necessary for me to assure my
readers.

CHAPTEE XXIV.
CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS.
CoNSTANTiNorLB— Chances— Two Pihes— Votaoe to Geebce— Qoabaktine at
.SoiNA— A Day in Athens— Calamachi— -The Isthmus— Pateas—Corfd.
Little can be said of the passage from Odessa to Constantinople ;
¦we continued out at sea and did not land anywhere. The distance
is 420 mUes. The ship belonged to the Eussian govemraent, it was
named Odessa, was of 260 horse power, and was handsome, clean,
and neat.
In order that my parting with my dear friends, the Eussians,
might not be too much regretted, one of them was so good at the
end of the passage as to behave in a manner that was far from polite.
During the last night which was very mild and warm, I went out of
the close cabin on to the deck, and placed myself not far from the
compass-box, where I soon began to sleep, wrapt in my mantle.
One of the saUors came, and gi'ving me a kick with his foot, told me
to leave the place. I thanked him quietly for the deUcate way in
which he expressed himself, and requesting him to leave me at
peace, continued to sleep.
Among the passengers were six English saUors, who had taken a
new ship to Odessa, aud were retuming home. I spoke with them
sevend times, and had soon quite won them. As they perceived
that I was withont any companion, they asked me ifi spoke enough
Turkish to be able to get what I wanted from the ship's people and
porters. On my answering that I did, they offered to manage every
thing for me if I would go on shore with 'them. I wUlingly accepted
their offer.
As we approached land a customs' officer came on board to ex
amine our luggage. In order to avoid delay I gave him some money.
When we landed I wanted to pay, but the EngUsh saUors would
not aUow it ; they said I had paid for the customs' officer, and it was
therefore thefr time to pay for the boat. I saw that I should only
have affronted them if I had pressed them further to receive the
money. They settled with the porter for me, and we parted good
friends. How different was the behaviour of these EngUsh SEulors
from that of the three weU-bred Eussian gentlemen at Jalta !
The passage into the Bosphorus, as weU as the objects of interest
in Constantinople, I have already described in my journey to the
Jffoly Land. I went immediately to my good friend Mrs. Balbiani;
hut, to my regret, found that she was not in Constantinople ; she
had given up her hotel. I was recommended to the hotel "Anx
Quatre Nations," kept by Madame Prxist Sho vras a talkative

330 A WOMAN S JOURNEY EOUND THE WOELD.
Erench woman, who was always singing the praises of her house
keeping, servants, cookery, &c., in which, however, none of the
traveUers agreed with her. She charged forty piasters (8s.), and
nut down a eood round sum in the biU for servants' fees and such
Eke. ^
Since my last stay here a handsome new wooden bridge had been
erected over the Golden Hom, and the women did not seem to be
so thickly veUed as on my first visit to Constantinople. Many of
thera wore such delicately woven veUs that thefr faces could almost
be seen through them : others had only the forehead and chin co
vered, and left thefr eyes, nose, and cheeks exposed.
The suburb of Pera looked very desolate. There had been a
number of fires, which were increased by two during my stay ; they
were caUed " smaU," as by the first only a hundred and thfrty shops,
houses, and cottages, and by the second, only thfrty were burned
to the ground. They are accustomed to reckon the number da-
sfroyed by thousands.
The first fire broke out in the evening as we were seated at table.
One of the guests offered to accompany me to see it, as he thought I
should be interested by the sight if I had not seen such a one before.
The scene of the fire was rather distant from our house, but we had
scarcely gone a himdred steps when we found ourselves in a great
crowd of people, who aU carried paper lanterns,* by which the sfreets
were lighted. Every one was shouting and rushing wUdly about ;
the inhabitants of the houses threw open thefr wfridows and inqufred
of the passers hy the extent of the danger, and gazed with anxiety
and frembUng at the reflection of the flames in the sky. Every now
and then sounded the shrUl cry of " Chiarda ! guards. !" (take care) o^
the peopfe, who carried smaU fire enginesf and buckets of water on
thefr shoulders, and knocked everything over that was in their way.
Mounted and foot soldiers and watchmen rushed about, and Pashas
rode down with thefr attendants to urge the people on in extinguish
ing the fire, and to render them assistance. Unfortunately alraost all
these labom-s are fruitless. The fire takes such hold of the wooden
buUdings painted with oU colours, and spreads with such incredible
rapidity that it is stopped only by open spaces or gardens. One fire
often desfroys several thousand houses. The unfortunate inhabi
tants have scarce time to save themselves ; those who Uve some dis
tance off hastily pack their effects together and hold themselves.
prepared for flight at any moment. It may easUy be supposed that
thieves are not rare on such occasions, and it too often happens that
the few things the poor people have saved are torn away from them
in the bustle and confusion.
The second fire broke out in the foUowing night. Ever|r one had re
tfred to sleep, but the fire- watch rushed through the street, knocking
with his fron-mounted staff at the doors of the houses and waking the
* Constantinople is not lighled — whoever goes out without a lantern is considered
suspicious, and taken to the next watch-liouse.
f Tlie iilreets of Constantinople are narrow, full of holes, and nneven, so that car
riages cannot Ije taken everywhere and people are obhged to manage with sinall fire-
eogines earned by four meu.

quaeantine at .SGINA. Kfl
people. I sprang terrified out of bed, ran to the window, and saw
in -the direction of the fire a faint red light in the sky. In a few
hours the noise and redness ceased. They have at last begun to
buUd stone houses, not only ia Pera but also in Constantinople.
I left Constantinople on the evening of the 7th of October, by
the French steamer Scamander, one hundred and sixty-horse power.
The passage from Constantinople to Smyrna, and through the
Greek Archipelago is described in my journey to the Holy Land, and
I therefore pass on at once to Greece.
I had been told, in Constantinople, that the quarantine was held
in the Pfrseus (six EngUsh mUes from Athens), and lasted only four
days, as the state of health in Turkey was perfectly satisfactory.
Instead of this, I learnt on the steamer that it was held at the island
of .SIgina (sixteen English mUes from Pirseus), and lasted twelve
days, not on account of the plague but of the cholera. Eor the
plague it lasts twenty days.
On the 10th of October we caught sight of the Grecian mainland.
SaUing near the coast, we saw on the lofty prominence of a rock
twelve large columns, the remains of the Temple of Minerva.
Shortly afterwards we carae near the hill on which the beautiful
AcropoUs stands. I gazed for a long time on aU that was to be
seen ; the statues of the Grecian heroes, the history of the oountry
came back to my mind ; and I glowed with desire to set my foot on
the land which, from my earliest chUdhood, had appeared to me,
after Eome and Jerusalem, as the most interesting in the earth.
How anxiously I sought for the new town of Athens — it stands upon
the same spot as the old and famous one. Unfortunately, I did not
see it, as it was hidden from us by a hUl. We turned into the
Pirseus, on which a new town has also been built, but only stopped
to deliver up our passports, and then saUed to Mgins..
It was already night when we arrived ; a boat was quickly put
out, and we were conveyed to the quay near the quarantine station.
Neither the porters nor servants of this estabUshment were there to
help us, and we were obliged to carry our own baggage to the
buUding, where we were shown into empty rooms. We could liot
even get a light. I had fortunately a wax taper with me, which
I cut into several pieces and gave to my feUow-passengers.
On the followiQg moming I inqufred about the regulations of the
quarantine — they were very bad, and very dear. A smaU roora,
quite empty, cost three drachmas (2*. Zd.) a-day; board, five
drachmas (3*. 2d.) ; very smaU separate portions, sixty or seventy
leptas (6d. or Id.) ; the attendance, that is, the superintendence of
the guardian, two drachmas a-day ; the supply of water, fifteen
leptas daily ; the physician, a drachma ; and another drachma on
leaving, for which he inspects the whole party, and examines the
state of thefr health. Several other things were to be had at a
similar price, and every article of furniture has to be hired.
I cannot understand how it is that the govemment pays so little
attention to institutions which are estabUshed for sanitary purposes
and which the poor cannot avoid. They must suffer more privation
here than at home ; they cannot have any hot meals, for the landlord.

333 A WOMAJSr'S JOUENEY BOUND THE WOELD.
who is not restricted in his prices, charges five or six tunes the value,
Several artizans who had come by the vessel were put into the same
room with a servant-gfrl. These people had no hot food the twelve
days ; they lived entirely upon bread, cheese, and dried figs. The
girl, after a few days, begged me to let her come into my room, as
tiie people had not behaved properly to her. In what a position the
poor gfrl would have been placed if there had not happened to be a
woman among the passengers, or if I had refused to receive her !
Are such arrangements worthy of a pubhc institution ? Why
are there not a few rooras fitted tip at the expense of government for
the poor ? Why cannot they have a plain hot meal once in the day
for a moderate price ? The poor surely suffer enough by not being
able to eam anything for so long a time, without being deprived of
their hard earnings in such a shameful maimer !
On the second day the court-yard was opened, and we were per
mitted to walk about in an inclosed space a hundred and fifty paces
wide, on the sea-shore. The view was very beautUul ; the whole of
the Cyclades lay before us : smaU, mountainous islands, mostly un
inhabited and covered over with woods. Probably they were formerly
a part of the mainland, and were separated by some violent con-
'vulsion of nature.
On the fourth day our range was extended, we were allowed to
walk as far as the hUls surrounding the lazaretto under the care of a
guard. The remains of a temple stand upon these hUls, fragments
of a wall, and a very much decayed column. Tlie latter, which con
sisted of a single piece of stone, was fluted, and, judging from the
circumference, had been very high. These mins are said to be those
of the reraarkably fine temple of Jupiter.
21st October. This was the day we were set at liberty. We
had ordered a small vesseL the evening before which was to take us
to Athens early ia the moming. But my fellow-travellers would
insist upon first celebrating their freedom at a tavern, and from this
reason it was 11 o'clock before we started. I avaUed myself of this
time to look about the town and its envfrons. It is very small and
contains no handsome buUdings. The only remains of antiquity
whioh I found were traces of the floor of a room in Mosaic work of
coloured stones. Erom what I could see of the island of iEgina, it
appeared extremely barren and naked, and it does not show any
indications of having been once a flourishing seat of art and com
merce. jEgina is a Greek island, about two square miles in extent, it
was formerly a separate state, and is said to have received the name
of ,^gina from the daughter of jEsop. It is supposed that the first
money of Greece was coined -in this island.
Our passage to the Pfrseus occupied a long time. There was not
a breath of wind, and the sailors were obliged to row ; we did not
land at our destiuation until nearly 8 in the evening. We were
first visited by the health-officer, who read through the certificates
whioh we brought from the quarantine very leisurely. There was
unfortunately nobody among us who was inclined to make it more
understandable to him by a few drachmas. Of course we could not

BtJEOPEAN EBVOLITTIONS. 333
neglect going to the poUce-office ; but it was afready closed, in con
sequence of which we dare not leave the town. I went into a larga
fine-looking coffee-house to look for niE;ht quarters. I was conducted
to a room ia which half of the window-panes were broken. The
attendant said this was of no consequence, it was only necessary to
close the shutters. In other respects the roora looked very woll but
I had scaicely laid down on the bed when certain animals compeUed
me to take to flight. I laid down upon the sofa, which was no
better. Lastly, I tried an easy chafr, in which I passed the night, not
in the most agreeable position.
I had afready been told in .^Egina of the great dirtiness and num
ber of vermin prevalent in the Pirsean inns, and had been warned
against passing a night there; but what was to bo doneP for we
could not venture to leave the town without permission of the police.
22nd October. The distance of the harbour of the Pfrseus from
Athens is thfrteen stadia, or six EngUsh mUes. The road leads
through oUve-plantations and between barren hUls. The Acropolis
remains continuaUy in sight ; the town of Athens does not appear
till afterwards. I had intended to reraain eight days in Athens, in
order to see aU the monuments and remarkable places of the town
and en-virons leisurely ; but I had scarcely got out of the carriage
when I heard the news of the breaking out of the Vienna revolution
of October. I had heard of the Paris revolution of the 24th Eebruary whUe
ip. Bombay ; that of March in Germany, at Baghdad ; and the other
political disturbances whUe at Tebris, Tiflis, and other places. No
news had astonished me so much in my whole Ufe as that from Vienna.
My comfortable, peaoe-lo-ving Ausfrians, and an overthrow of the go
vernment ! I thought the statement so doubtful, that I could not give
full credit to the verbal information of the Eesident at Baghdad ; he
was obliged to show it to me m Dmck and white in the newspaper to
convince me. The affafr of March so delighted and inspirited me -
that I felt proud of being an Austrian. The later occurrences of
May, however, cooled my enthusiasm ; and that of the 6th of Oc
tober completely fiUed me with sadness and dejection. No over
throw of a state ever began so promisingly. It would have stood
alone in history if the people had gone on in the spfrit of the March
movement ; and then to end in such a way ! I was so grieved and
upset by the result of the 6th of October, that I lost all enjoyment
of everything. Moreover, I knew my friends were in Vieima, and I
had heard nothing from them. I should have hastened there im
mediately if there had been an opportunity of doing so ; but I was
obUged to wait tUl the next day, as the s-teamer did not start tUl
then. I made arrangements to go byit, and then took a cicerone to
show me aU the objects of interest in the town, more for diversion
than pleasure.
My fate had been very unfortunate ; twelve days I had patiently
endured being shut up in the lazaretto at Mgina, in order to be able
to see the classic country, and now I was so anxious to leave it that I
had neither rest nor peace.
Athens, the capital of the former State of Attica, is said to have

334 A WOMAN S JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
been founded inthe year 1300, fourteen hundred years before Christ,
by Cecrops, from whom it then took the narae of Cecropia, which
in after-times was retained only by the castle : under Eriktonius the
town was named "Athens." The original town stood npon a rock
in the centre of a plain, whioh was afterwards covered with build
ings ; the upper part was called the "Acropolis," the lower the
" XatopoUs ; " only a part of the fortress, the famous Acropolis, re
mains on the mountain, where the principal works of art of Athens
stand. The principal feature was the temple of Minerva, or the
Parthenon ; even its ruins excite the astonishment of the world.
The buUding is said to haVe been 215 feet long, ninety-seven feet
broad, and seventy feet high ; here stood the statue of Minerva, by
Phidias. This masterly work was executed in gold and ivory ; its
height was forty-six feet, and it is said to have weighed more than
2000 pounds. Fifty-five columns ofthe entrance to the temple stUl
remain, as weU as parts of enormous blocks of marble whieh rest
npon them, and belonged to the arches and roof.
This teraple was destroyed by the Persians, and was again re
stored with greater beauty by Pericles, about 440 years after the
birth of Christ.
There are some fine remains of the temples of Minerva and
Neptune, and the extent of the araphitheatre can stiU be seen;
there is but little of the theatre of Bacchus remaining.
Outside the Acropolis stands the temple of Theseus and that of
Jupiter Olympus ; the one on the north, the other on the south side.
The former is in the Doric style, and is surrounded by thirty-six:
fine columns. On the metope are represented the deeds of Theseus
in beautiful reUefs. The interior of the temple is full of fine sculp
tures, epitaphs, and other works in stone, most of which belong to
the other temples, but are collected here. Outside the temple stand
several marble seats which have been brought fromthe neighbouring
Areopagus, the forraer place of asserably for the patricians. Of the
Areopagus itself nothing raore is to be seen than a chamber cut out
of the rock, to which simUarly cut steps lead.
Of the temple of Jupiter Olympus so much of the foundation-
walls stUl remain as to show what its size was ; there are also six
teen beautiful columns, fifty-eight feet in height. This temple,
which was completed by Hadrian, is said to have exceeded in beauty
and magnificence aU the buildings of Athens. The exterior was
decorated by one hundred and twenty fluted columns six feet in dia
meter and fifty -nine in height. The gold and ivory statue of Jupiter
was, like that of Minerva, the production of the masterly hand of
Phidias. All the temples and buildings were of pure white marble.
Not far from the Areopagus is the Pnyx, where the free people 'of
Athens met in council. Of this nothing more remains than the
rostrum, hewn in the rock, and the seat of the scribe. What feelings
agitate the mind when it is remembered what men have stood there
and spoke, from that spot !
It was with sadness that I examined the cave near here where
Socrates was imprisoned and poisoned. Above this memorable
grotto stands a plain monument erected in memory of Philopapos.

ATHENS, 33S
The Turks surrounded the Acropolis with a broad wall, in the
buUding of which they made use of many fragments of columns and
other remains of the most beautiful temples.
No remnants of antiquity are to be seen in the old town of Athena
except the Tower of the Winds, or, as others caU it, Diogenes'
Lantern, a smaU temple in the form of an octagon, covered with fine
sculpture ; also the monument of Lysicrates. This consists of a
pedestal, some columns, and a dome in the Corinthian style.
The chapel Maria Maggiore, is said to have been buUt by the
Venetians, 700 years after Christ. Its greatest pecuharity is that
it was the first Christian church in Athens.
The view of the whole counfry from the AcropoUs is also very ia
teresting ; there can be seen the Hymetos, the PenteUkon, towards
Eleusis, Marathon, Phylse, and Dekelea, the harbour, the sea, and
the course of the Ilissus.
Athens contains a considerable number of houses, most of whioh
are, however, small and unimportant ; the beautiful country-houses,
on the contrary, surrounded by tasty gardens, have a yery agreeable
appearance. The small observatory was built by Baron Sina, the well-known
banlcer in Vienna, who is by bfrth a Greek.
The royal palace, which is of modern date, is huUt of brUliant
white marble, in the form of a large quadrangle. On two sides,
which occupy a large part of the breadth of the wings, under a
peristyle, is a kind of smaU porch which rests upon pillars. The
one approach is for the ministers, ambassadors, &c., the other for
the royal fanuly. With the exception of these two peristyles, the
whole building is very tasteless, and has not the least ornament ;
the -windows are in the ordiuary form ; and the high large walls
appear so naked, bare, and flat, that even the dazzUng white of the
beautiful marble produces no effect; and it is only on a close
approach that it can be seen what a costly material has been
em^oyed in the buUding. .
I regretted having seen this palace, especiaUy opposite to the
Acropolis, on a spot whioh has made its works of art as classic as its
heroes. The palace is surrounded by a rather pretty though recently-
formed garden. In the front stand a few palras, which have been
brought from Syria, but they bear no fruit. The country is other
wise barren and naked.
The marble of which this palace is built, as weU as the temples
and other buUdings on the AcropoUs, is obtained from 'the quarries
of the neighbouring mountain, PenteUkon, where the quantity of this
beautiful stone is so great that whole towns might be buUt of it.
It was Sunday, and the weather was yery fine,* to which I was
indebted for seeing aU the fasliionable world of Athens, and even
•the Court, in the open promenade. This place is a plain avenue, at
the end of which a wooden pavilion is erected. It is not decorated
* Here, where I arrived about; four weeks after leaving Odessa, the sun appeared
as hot as with ns in July. The vegetation was greatly in want of rain, and the leaves
were almost dying from the heat ; while in Odessa they were already killed by the cold.

SSS A WOJMAN S JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD.
by either lawns or flower-beds. The miUtary bands play every
Sunday from five to six. The Eing rides or drives with his Queen to
this place to show himself to the people. This time he came in an
open carriage with four horses, and stopped to hear several pieces
of music. He was in Greek costume ; the Queen wore an ordinary
French dress.
The Greek or rather Albanian costume is one of the handsomest
there is. The men wear fuU frocks, made of white perkal, whieh
reach from the hips to the knees, buskins from the knee to the feet,
and shoes generaUy of red leather. A close-fitting vest of coloured
sUk without arms, over a sUk shirt, and over this another close-fitting
spencer of fine red, blue, or brown cloth, which is fastened only at
the waist by a few buttons or a narrow band, and lays open at the
top. The sleeves of the spencer are sUt up, and are either left loose
or shghtly held together by some cords round the wrists ; the coUar
of the shirt is a little tumed over. The vest and spencer are tastUy
ornaraented with cords, tassels, spangles and buttons of gold, sUver
or sUk, according to the raeans of the wearer. The material, colour
and ornaraent of the Zaruchi correspond with those of the spencer
and vest. A dagger is generaUy worn in the girdle, together with a
pair of pistols. The head-dress is a red fez, with a blue tassel.
The Greek dress is, as far as I saw, less worn by the women,
and even then much of its originaUty is lost. The principal part
of the dress consists of a French garment, which is open at the
breast, over this a close spencer is drawn on, whioh is also open,
and the sleeves wide and rather shorter than those ofthe gown. The
front edges of the gown and spencer are trimmed with gold lace.
The women and gfrls wear on thefr head a very smaU fez, wluch is
bound round with rose or other coloured crape.
24th October. I left Athens by the small steamer Baron
Xiibeck, seventy-horse power, and went as far as Calamachi
(twenty-eight miles). Here I had to leave the ship and cross the
Isthmus, three EngUshjnUes broad. At Lutrachi we went on board
another vessel.
During the passage to Calamachi, which lasts only a few hours,
the little town of Megara is seen upon a barren hiU.
Nothing is more unpleasant iu travelUng than changing the con-
yeyanee, especially when it is a good one, and you can only lose
by doing so. We were in this situation. Herr Leitenberg was one
of the best and most attentive of aU captains that I had ever met
with in my travels, and we were all sorry to have to leave him and
his ship. Even in Calamachi, where we remained this day and the
foUowing, as the ship which was to carry us on from Lutrachi did
not arrive, on account of contrary -winds, untU the 25th, he attended
to us with the greatest politeness.
The viUage of Calamachi offers but Uttle of interest, the few
houses have only been erected since the steamers plied, and the
tolerably high mountains on which it Ues are for the most part
barren, or grown over with low brambles. We took several walks
on the Isthmus, and ascended minor heights, from whence on one
aide is seen the gulf of Lepanto, and on the other the .fflgean sea.

CORINTH — PATEAS — COEFr. 337
In front of us stood tho large mountain, Akrokorinth, rismg high
above aU its companions. Its summit is embeUished by a wdl-
preserved fortification, which is caUed the remains of the Caatle of
Akrokorinth. and was used by the Turks in the last war aa a
fortress. The formerly world-famous ciiy of Corinth, after which
aU the fittings of luxury and sumptuousness in the interior of palaces
were named, and which gave the name to a distinct order of archi
tecture, is reduced to a smaU town with scarcely a thousand iuha-
bitants, and lies at the foot of the mountain, in the midst of fields
and vineyards. It owes the whole of its present celebrity to its
smaU dried grapes, caUed currants.
It is said that no town of Greece had so many beautiful statues of
stone and marble as Corinth. It was upon this isthmus, which
consists of a narrow ridge of mountains, and is covered with dense
fig-groves, in which stood a beautUul temple of Neptune, were held
the various Isthmian games.
How greatly a people or a country may degenerate ! The Grecian
people, at one time the first in the world, are now the furthest be
hind ! I was told by everyone that in Greece it was neither safe to
trustmyself with a guide nor to wander about alone, as Ihad done in
other coimtries ; indeed, I was warned here in Calamachi not to go
too far from the harbour, smd to return before the dusk of the
evening. 26th October. We did not start fi-om Lutrachi until tow-ards
noon, by the steamer Hellenos, of one himdred and twenty-horse
power. We anchored for a few hours in the evening near Vostizza, the
ancient .Slgion, now an unimportant viUage, at the foot of a mountain.
27th October, Patras. That portion of Greece which Ihad afready
seen was neither rich in beauty, weU cultivated, nor thickly inhabited.
Here were, at least, plains and hills covered with meadows, flelds,
and -vineyards. The town, on the Gulf of Lepanto, was formerly an
important place of frade ; and before the breaking out of the Greek
revolution in 1821, contained 20,000 inhabitants ; it has now only
7,000. The town is defended by three fortresses, one of which
stands upon a hUl, and two at the enfrance ofthe harbour. The town
is neither handsome nor clean, and the sfreets are narrow. The
high mountains pleased me better ; and thefr chain can be foUowed
for a considerable distance.
I saw grapes here whose beauty and size induced me to buy
some ; but I found them so hard, diy, and tasteless, that I did not
even venture to give them to a sailor, but threw them into the sea.
28th October. Corfu is the largest of the Ionian Islands, which
formerly belonged to Greece, and Ue at the entrance to the Adriatic
sea. Corfu, the ancient Corcyra, has been subject to England since
1815. The town of Corfu is situated in a more beautiful and fertUe
counfry than Patras, and is far larger. It contains 18,000 inhabi
tants. Adioioing the town are two romantic peaks of rock, with
sfrong fortified works, upon which stand the telegraph and the Ught
house. Both are surrounded by artificial ditches, with draw-bridges

338 A woman's JOUENEY EOUND THB WOELD.
leading across. The immediate envfrons of the town, as weU as the
whole island, are rich in delightful groves of oUve and orange trees.
The town contains handsome houses and streets, with the excep
tion of the bye-sfreets, which are remarkably crooked and not very
clean. At the entrance of the town stands a large covered stone
haU, in which on one side are the staUs of the butchers ; on the
other, those of the fishermen. In the open space in front are ex
posed the choicest vegetables and most beautiful fiTuts. The
theatre presents a very pretty appearance; it would seem, from the
sculptures upon it, to Imve been used for a church. The principal
square is large and handsome ; it is intersected by several avenues,
and one side faces the sea. The palace of the EngUsh govemor
stands here ; a fine buUding in the Grecian-Italian style.
The faraous and much-visited church of St. Spiridion is bnt
smaU ; it contains many oU-paintings, sorae are good speciraens of
the old Italian School. In a sraaU dark chapel at the furthest end
of the church Ues, in a sUver sarcophagus, the body of St. Spiridion,
who is held in great veneration by the lonians. The chapel is
always full of devotees who tenderly kiss the sarcophagus.
On the 29th of October we saw the low raountain-eonntry of
Dalmatia, and on the 30th I entered Trieste, whence I hastened on
to Vienna the day foUowing. I was obliged to pass several days
in the greatest anxiety before the town, as it had been taken by
storm on the last day of October and was not opened untU the 4th
of November. It was not until I had seen that all my relations
were safe that I was able to return thanks with a grateful heart to
the good Providence which, in aU my dangers and froubles, had so
-remarkably protected and preserved me in health and sfrength.
With equal gratitude I remembered those people who had freated me
with such kindness, had so disinterestedly received me, and through
whose help I had been enabled to overcome the frequent great hard
ships and difficulties I encountered.
From my readers I hope for a charitable judgment npon my
book, which in simple language describes what I have experienced,
seen and felt, and makes no higher pretension than that of being
sincere and trustworthy.

YALE UNIVERSITY UBRARY

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