»isii8Kl

*$«» ^^^l- ^H%

Port of Gnaymas.— The tey to Sonora and Arizona.

J^JL\a^vy 'Iff nil
GE ©CEAk

.-J-*-*

nn

T. ROBINSON WARREN.

My little Maria signalizing her consort the Caroline.

NEW YORK:
CHARLES SCRIBNER, 124 GRAND STREET.
LONDON i
SAMPSON LOW, SON & CO., 4T LTJD&ATE HILL.

DUST AND FOAM;

OB,

THREE OCEANS AND TWO CONTINENTS;

TEN YEARS' WANDERINGS IN MtfXTC > -WIU .WEKICA, SANDWICH ISLANDS,
* TIIE EAST AND Wrl^f INDIES, 0111N1, PHILIPPINES,
AUSTRALIA AND POLYNESIA.

BY T. ROBINSON WARREN.

NEW YORK:
CHARLES SCRIBNER, 124 GRAND STREET.
LONDON : SAMPSON LOW, SON & CO.,
47 Ludgate Hill.
m DOOO LIX.

E.nthrkd according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by
CHARLES SCRIBNER,
In the Clerk'a Office of the District Courtof the United Statea.for the Southern District of New York.

Vf. H. Trasos, Stcrcotyper. Geo. Edssill 4 Co., Priutoia.

WHATEVER MERIT
THE FOLLOWING PAGES MAY POSE
I RESPECTFULLY DEDICATE TO
MY FATHER.

PREFACE.

The following pages are a compilation from desultory
notes made ashore and afloat, generally under disadvan
tageous circumstances. In them I pretend to no literary
merit; happy indeed will I he, if among the many
tongues in which I have been in the habit of expressing
my ideas during the last ten years — Spanish, French,
English, Kanaka, and half a dozen other idioms com
mon to the South Sea Islands — I have retained the
power of even writing correctly my own native lan
guage. A winter's cruising in the Gulf of Mexico, and a
year in Europe, had instilled-within me a s'trong taste
for travel and nautical adventure, and I hailed with
delight the opj-ortunity offered by the California emigra
tion for indulging in my propensities.
Like the Kanaka, sporting in his native surf, I at
once plunged headlong among the foaming billows of
excitement, and after many a struggle, gained the out
most breaker, when, poising myself upon its crest, I
was hurled forward with it in its mad career; now,
1

VI PREFACE.
wrestling in its seething foam, then drawn downward
by its relentless undertow ; again, gliding onward in its
lightning course, bruised amidst the coral rocks of
misfortune — a friendly comber cast me at last in safety
upon my native shore.
Eew lands have 1 left unvisited, few waters have I
not ploughed, and consequently I think myself entitled
to the traveller's privilege of telling my own story in my
own way, leaving my readers to take it for what it is
worth. Claiming to be no authority — nautical, historical, poli
tical or statistical — I merely give my views as based
upon observation extremely superficial, and beg in the
language of our South American cousins, to place my
book, and my humble self, at the feet of the indulgent
reader, "whose hands I kiss."

0 0 N T E NVT S .

CHAPTEE I.

THE VOYAGE.

The author waxes eloquent upon the Discovery of Gold, and of its
Effects upon the People — Is seized with the prevailing Epidemic — Is
elected President of a Mining Company — Takes Ship for California —
Is enthusiastic upon Things nautical — Reaches the Brazilian Coasts,
and describes their magnificent Appearance  11

CHAPTER II.
RIO JANEIRO.
Describes the Entrance to Rio Janeiro — Its splendid Harbor — Gives a
slight Historical Sketch of it — General Description of the City, its
Churches, Palaces, its Hospitals and its Villas — Touches upon Slavery
and its Abuses — Gives Ideas of Catholicism as existing in Brazil,
and the Depravity of its Priests — Treats of the State of Society —
Gives Descriptions of the Emperor, the Empress, and of the Brazilian
Court  21
7

V1U CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE III.
st. Catharine's.
The Author resigns his Presidency — Leaves his Ship and tries Steamboat
Navigation — He encounters a Pampero, which he describes — The
Steamer is knocked into"a Cocked Hat — He gives himself up as lost, but
finds he is mistaken — The Gale abates and the Steamboat puts into St.
Catharines — A Description of the Harbor — The Vessel is besieged by
People of all ranks, ages and sexes, who are lost in wonder at the
sight of a Biver Steamboat in their Waters — The Maidens take forcible
possession of the Saloons, converting them into Ball-rooms, and the
modest young Men of Steamboats, Nolens volens, are made furiously to
Polka — The Island is unanimously voted a Paradise, and the Author
lays himself out in describing it — The Steamboat is pronounced by a
Nautical Jury to be "a Lame Duck,'' and is ordered to be "Bog Braced"
before again going to Sea — Six weeks are necessary for the adminis
tration of the above Swinish Tonic, prescribed by the Nautical Doctors
— How the young Gentlemen manage to kill Time — Their Functions as
Time-killers being performed in the most artistic manner. . . 49

CHAPTER IV.
STRAITS OF MAGELLAN.
Author leaves St. Catharines and his sweethearts behind him — Is once
more upon old Ocean — Is dubious as to the Staunchness of his Convey
ance—Enters the Straits of Magellan — Arrives at Port Famine — Finds
no Coal — Does the necessary amount of Swearing, and then becomes
resigned— He proceeds to cut Wood for Fuel, with Sailors for Axemen
— It begins to Snow, and Snows for thirty Days and thirty Nights,
without cessation — Makes Shooting Excursions into unexplored Bays,
and slaughters unsuspicious Fowl — Becomes superstitious, sees the
Devil, and hears him howl — Experiences Spasmodic Sensations

CONTENTS. IX
thereat, which are calmed on the idea suggesting itself, that it was
only a Sea Liou — Ho enters the Pacific, and describes his Impressions
in strains Poetic — He arrives at Valparaiso — Describes it — Dines with
the Consul, and experiences his first Earthquake while at Table —
Insecurity of the Harbor — Terrible Gales and Wrecks — We once more
Steam along the Coast, remarking upon the Ports of Copiapo, Co-
quimbo, Iquique, Islay, Arica, and Pisca — Arrive at the Chincha
Islands — Theory relating to the Accumulation of Guano — Balls on
Shipboard — We touch at Caiiete — Are spilt in the Surf. . . 61

CHAPTER V.
LIMA.
Discovery of Peru — Thrillingly romantic Scenes enacted by Christian
Knights and Yuca Warriors — Final subjection of the Incas — City of
Lima — Its Aspect from the Bay — Its Cathedral —Its Plaza — Its many
Elements of Population — Its Manners and Customs— Society — Inse
curity from Robbery — Hotels — Her Majesty's Plenipo drubbed by an
American Consul — Bull-fights — Patron Saint — Departure from Lima —
Sail up the Coast — Paita — Entrance to Guayaquil River — The City —
The Peak of Chimborazo  92

CHAPTER VI.
PANAMA.
Panama — Its magnificent Bay, studded with bright Islets — Ancient
Appearance of the City— Sufferings of Emigrants from Fever, Cholera,
and Want — We retire to Flamingo Island, and there luxuriate on lus
cious Fruits — Take on board a horde of Passengers— A Description of
them— Continuous Sickness of the Passengers— Steamboat converted
into a gambling Hell— Burying a, Man under Difficulties— Aca
pulco.  124

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER VII.
CALIFORNIA.
We arrive at San Francisco — First Impressions — Dreadful Winter —
Fires — Murders and Gambling — Leave for the Diggings — Are over
taken by a Flood at Sacramento — Funny Scenes — Leave for the Upper
Country — Scare the Landlord of Nocola's Rancho — Tramp into the
Interior — Remarks about that Section of Country — Go to the Southern
Mines— Get Sick — Leave for Home — Take passage in the Steamer
Tennessee — Pleasant Companions — Panama again — Delight of Trip
across the Isthmus in the Rainy Season — Arrive in New York — Leave
New York in a little Brig bound round Cape Horn — Some remarks
touching the Intellectual Improvement of our Merchant Marine, mainly
dub to Lieut. Maury — Arrive in Mexico after a Seven Months'
Voyage  138

CHAPTER VIII.
SONORA.
Guaymas — Its snug Harbor — My Uncle — Appearance of his Residence 
Salute his Family in Mexican style — Am installed in my new Home 
Go to Work — Mode of doing Business not in strict accordance with the
Revenue Laws— Government badly administered — Proclivity of Mexi
cans to Revolution — Social System — Pretty Girls — Native Grace  Eng
lish Men-of-war — Balls on board — I get sick — Go to a Watering-place
to recuperate — Appearance of Captain Ellis in the Schooner Alice 
Filibustering— Count Raouset's Expedition, his Campaign, his Dnfeat
and Execution— General Walker— I buy a Vessel and cruise about in
her.  .rea

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER IX.

SANDWICH ISLANDS.

The Author goes to the Sandwich Islands — Embarks in a small Steam
boat — Narowly escapes Shipwreck — General Description of the Craft —
Arrives at the Sandwich Islands — General Description — Is presented
at Court — Queen not visible, very drunk — Princess Victoria, a dusky
Negress, personates her Majesty — Dog Feasts — Impossible to restrain
his Majesty's taste for Strong Waters — Description of Owyhee — All
about the beautiful Cascade of Hailuku. . . , . . 236

CHAPTER X.
MANILA.
Take Ship for Manila — Arrive there — Working Ship in narrow Places —
First Impressions — Banca — River Passig — Hotel — Ancient Appear
ance of the City — Heterogeneous Masses of Population, and Pecu
liarities — The Chinese — Their immense Numbers — Their Industry —
Their Accumulative Propensities — Natives — Their Dress and Customs
— Sports — Mania for Cock-fighting — Calzada — Beautiful Drive — Grace
and Beauty of Women — Lovely Music — Cigar Factories — Vast assem
blage of Workwomen — Pine-apple Cloth — Remarks upon Trade, and
Natural Advantages of the Island  262

CHAPTER XI.

Approach to China — Junks — Pirates.— Limoon Passage — Pilot — Hong-
Kong — My pecuniary Prospects — Falling into pleasant Places — Meeting
an old Friend — Going up Canton River — A fast Boat — Engagement

:<:i CONTENTS.
with Pirates — Stink-pots and their Effects — Am Lucky — Take Com
mand of a Vessel — Fit her out; — Buy her myself — Sell Half of her —
Dispatch her to Australia — Wander over China — Macao — Poet Ca-
moens ........... 276
CHAPTER XII.
SINGAPORE.
Leave for Singapore — China Sea — Shocking Contrast — Chinese, their
Improved Condition — Assimilating to Europeans — Game of Ten-pins
as played by Chinamen — London Hotel — Public Drive — The Gurrie3
and other Equipages — Pretty Residences — Interior — Valuable Estates
— Numbers of Tigers — Their fondness for Chinamen — The moving
Population and its Materiel — Peninsular and Oriental Steam Service —
Leave for Australia  308
CHAPTER XIII.
MELBOURNE.
Melbourne and its Appearance — My Impressions — Its Society — Wide
Streets — Its Hotels — Beautiful Suburbs — Compared to California — Its
Climate — Its Stability — I meet an old Friend — Speculation — Buy a
Schooner — Trade to Otaheite — The Boomerang — Getting ready — My
Crew— Description of a gang of Cut-throats — Mate Mutinies — Meets
his Deserts — Delights of the Voyage.  Z11
CHAPTER XIV.
POLYNESIA.
Arrival at Otaheite — Lovely Harbor — Its general Scenery — Strange to
find it in possession of red-legged Frenchmen — Beauty of the
Island — Its magnificent Verdure— Picturesque Dwellings of the Natives

CONTENTS. XIII
— Ship a new Crew — Cruise among the Islands — Fill up with Cargo,
and sail again for Australia — The Voyage — Sydney — Its Harbor — Its
Elegant Buildings, public and private — Dashing Appearance of Popu
lation — Leave for Melbourne  328

CHAPTER XV.
VOYAGE IN SOUTH PACIFIC.
Take Passage in a Brig — Find I am sold — Captain and all Hands get
Drunk — Captain and all Hands stay Drunk — Work Ship myself —
Furious Gales— Ship dismasted — Nothing to eat — General Filthiness—
, Touch at Pitcairn's Island— Get jammed in between the Trades and
Equatorial Calms — Reach the Coast— Ninety day Passage — Wind up
with a grand Shindy.  338

CHAPTER XVI.
WEST COAST.
The Author goes Ashore — Finances at a Low Ebb— Seeks Employment —
Becomes a Night Watchman, at ten Dollars per Night and Grog — Gets
Command of a Ship — Is transferred to a Steamer — Pleasant Voyages
— The Surf — Is Chartered by Government — Callao — Its improved
Condition — Frequent Revolutions — Presidential Candidates — the Ins
and the Outs — Coolie Trade defended  352

CHAPTER XVII.
Conclusion  • 868

DUST AND FOAM.

CHAPTER I.

THE VOYAGE.

The Author waxes eloquent upon the Discovery of Gold, and of its
Effects upon the People — Is seized with the prevailing Epidemic — Is
elected President of a Mining Company — Takes Ship for California —
Is enthusiastic upon Things nautical — Reaches the Brazilian Coasts,
and describes their magnificent Appearance.
Like a revelation burst upon us the news of the discovery of
gold in California ; all suddenly the astounding fact was simul
taneously felt throughout the length and breadth of this broad
land, that in our own territory, within our very grasp, the long
sought " El Dorado," in search of which thousands of Hves, and
countless treasures had in vain been expended, had at last been
discovered, where it had lain ages upon ages, the golden har
vest unheeded and ungarnered, since Nature in her throes had-
vomited it broadcast over valley and hill, into rivers' bottoms,
and on mountains' tops.
An excitement as intense as it was violent, seized upon the
whole nation, from North to South, from East to West ; like
an electric shock it spread, pervading all ranljs and conditions 11

12 TIIE VOYAGE.
of life ; the rich saw millions added to their hoards, the poor
fancied a millenium, their wants supplied, and a life of ease in
prospect. City and village alike poured forth their pilgrims to a
common shrine; commerce, agriculture, and the arts were aban
doned, and all eyes fixed upon the golden calf ; domestic ties
were snapped asunder, husbands parted from wives, brothers
from sisters, parents from children — all offering up their heart's
truest and best affection on that golden altar. Hundreds of
vessels crowded with living freight sailed gaily from our
shores, upon a long and perilous voyage ; over the interminable
western plains, caravan after caravan of hardy pioneers pushed
forward, regardless alike of burning deserts, of hostile tribes-
and mighty rivers.
The hitherto impenetrable fastnesses of the isthmus of Pan
ama resounded to the shout of the reckless emigrant, who,
braving tropical suns, deadly malarias and the wild beasts of
the wilderness, forced his canoe against the swift currents of
swollen rivers, over shoals and rapids, until way-worn he reached
and looked with delight upon the fair bosom of the Pacific.
Such was the state of things in the month of December,
1848 ; the excitement became epidemic, and few escaped con
tagion. I myself was an early victim of the disease in its
most virulent form, smd at once determined to join the ranks
of the vast phalanx, then forming, whose rallying cry was,
" Westward ho !"
On looking about for the best and safest means of getting
to the land of promise, and after carefully weighing the advan
tages and disadvantages of the different routes, I finally con
cluded to join some one of the many companies then forming,
with a view tonnining and trading, and who purposed sailing

THEVOYAGE. 13
around Cape Horn. For the accomplishment of this end, a ves
sel was to be bought fully equipped with everything necessary
to the success of the undertaking, and which would in case of
need serve as a home on our arrival at our destination; for, like
prudent generals, we would in this way reserve to our ourselves
a means of retreat should our advance have been premature.
I "resolved upon this mode of prosecuting my journey for
various cogent reasons. I judged the voyage by sea to be the
most healthy, the least expensive, and attended with less risk
than either the route by the isthmus of Panama, or by the
Indian trails of the western prairies. The accounts we were
then receiving from the : isthmus were of the most distressing
character. The hardships endured by the emigrants crossing
it uninured to a tropical climate were terrible in the extreme,
and the cholera, and fevers had already found many victims.
The news from the plains was scarcely less disastrous. Hun
dreds had succumbed to the unusual hardships of the deserts ;
cholera had there too thinned the ranks ; and loss of animals,
and attacks of hostile Indians had turned homeward many a
one disheartened. In view of all this I decided upon a voyage
by sea, and joined a company consisting of some thirty young
men, who associated themselves together for mutual defence
and support, each, of whom contributed as his quota, the
sum of five hundred dollars, therewith creating a fund with
which we purchased a fine bark of 300 tons burden, together
with an outfit and mining materials necessary for the prosecu
tion of our voyage.
Of this association I was chosen President, and after matur
ing all our plans, we set sail for San Francisco, on the — day
of Feb., a.d. 1849.

14 THEVOYAGE.
To many, the idea of a long sea voyage would be disagree
able in the extreme, but to me it conveyed a feeling of positive
delight ; and here, at the outset of my journey, I must confess
myself an enthusiastic admirer of all pertaining to the ocean.
Upon its fickle bosom I have spent the greater part of nine •
long years.
I have battled with the West Indian hurricane, the Brazilian
pampero, and the typhoon of the China seas, and have passed
days, yes, weeks, under sweltering suns in equatorial calms. I
have been stinted in provisions and half mad for want of water,
yet still I love the life ; there is an excitement in it, which,
while it is pleasurable, is inspiring. It's glorious to cut along
the blue rippling sea of the tropics, impelled by a trade-wind
which, untiring, fills your sails, speeds you onward, and invigo
rates you with its refreshing temperature. It's glorious to feel
that though your bark is but a speck upon the mighty waste of
waters, that in her you rest secure, let the storm rage never so
fiercely, let the waves run never so high, and that you, trust
ing in your own skill, can confidently cope with them. While
there is something terribly sublime in a hurricane at sea, when
the deafening roar stuns, and the mighty waves are surging
and breaking around you — still, even then, one soars above the
littleness of fear, with the feeling that he, in his weakness, is
successfully contending against such fearful odds.
To me, every trifling incident connected with the sea is
fraught with interest, and I luxuriate in the endless vicissitudes
of a sailor's life ; thus it will not seem strange that I selected
the route around Cape Horn in preference to all others. Bat,
alas 1 all in this world da not think alike, and before our little
bark had been twenty days at sea, the enthusiasm of my thirty

THEVOYAGE. 15
co-adventurers had oozed from their fingers' ends, and home
sickness and despondency had usurped its throne. Curses loud
and deep were unsparingly bestowed upon the sea and all
" that go down thereto," and I will venture to say, that there
were scarce ten men on board that vessel, who would not have
forfeited their interest in the expedition to have been once
more on terra firma.
The voyage, for the first thirty days, was to me a peculiarly
pleasant one. Once escaped from the cold blasts of our own
coast, the northeast trade-winds bore us pleasantly onward on
our course, our little vessel proving herself swift and true.
On approaching the line, however, we lost our favoring
breezes, and became entangled within the belt of equatorial
calms, where we were held prisoners for the space of sixteen
days. The weather was intensely hot, the thermometer stand
ing, during night and day, at an average of ninety degrees Fah
renheit, the sails hanging heavily against the masts, as we lazily
rolled over the long Atlantic swell. Oh 1 the tediousness of
those long, long days. No ripple stirred the glassy surface of
the water ; day after day the sun arose bright and burning
from the sea, and night after night sunk fiery red below the ho
rizon. The tar oozed from the deck-seams, the furniture in the
cabins cracked asunder, and the water, heated and foul, be
came thick and stringy in the casks, too nauseous fbr Christian
man to drink. No place was there to escape the heat ; the
cabins were insupportable, and a vertical sun gave no shade.
One could not jump overboard without a long, green, shovel-
nosed shark making his appearance, with an ogreish look which
banished all idea of the pleasures of a bath.
We whistled our lips to African dimensions ; we stuck our

16 THEVOYAGE.,
knife blades deep into the mast ; and, in a word, conformed to
every extravagance of a sailor's superstition. But all in vain ;
no breeze would come ; so we bided our time, and in pure de
spair cursed old Boreas for a recreant knight, in' leaving sweet
little " St. Mary" in such a dire predicament. But all things
have an end, as did our calm, and somewhere about the six
teenth day of our sufferings, a gentle breeze sprang up, which,
gradually assuming the type of the southeast trades, sent us
dancing merrily across the South Atlantic.
One of the most remarkable and beautiful .of the ocean phe
nomena, is that of the phosphorescent light produced by small
animalculae, of a gelatinous nature, which appear to bear the
same relation to the water as do the fire-flies to the air. They
abound more in some parts of the ocean than in others, and I
think that I have observed them to be more luminous in the
vicinity of the Cape de Verde Islands than in any other part of
the world. Never shall I forget the startlingly beautiful effect
produced by our little craft, as with a spanking breeze she
skirted along this group. Every plunge she made was as into
a molten mass of silver, and the spray flew like silver stars
against the black, dark sky ; and astern, as far as eye could
penetrate, the gloom was a broad, bright wake glittering with
dazzling stars ; every wavelet that broke into the gloom dis
charging a precious freight of glistening jewels.
I had often read of flying-fish, and had pictured lo myself
some awkward member of the finny tribe, half bird, half fish.
How different the reality 1 Hour after hour have I watched
with delight these bright-winged sprites, as in shoals of hun
dreds they have shot from crest to crest, like feathered arrows
from a bow, their silvery wings glistening in the bright sun-

THEDOLPHIN. 17
shine, as pursued by their relentless enemy, the dolphin, they
dart into the air and sail upon the wing, until exhausted they
again sink into the sea. These little water- fairies are scienti
fically classified as the " Exoccetus Exiliens," and have fins
nearly as long as their bodies (from five to nine inches), placed
behind the gills, and these are used as wings ; they shoot from
beneath the surface of the water and sail for a distance of from
eighty to one hundred yards upon the wing, and then suddenly
drop into the sea. From this we would infer, that as soon as the
fins lose their moisture they likewise lose their buoyancy. "A
delicate species of this fish is found in the Mediterranean, hav
ing four wings. The body is of a delicate bluish tint, and the
bone of the head so transparent that the brain is quite percep
tible." The dolphin is also found in great abundance in this part of
the ocean ; indeed, cannibal that he is, and living upon his own
species, he displays to the greatest advantage the grace and
swiftness for which he is so celebrated, when in pursuit of the
flying-fish. His length is from twenty-five to forty inches, with
an oval head, and his body tapering off to the tail, gives the
idea of perfect symmetry. As he swims along just beneath the
surface of the water, he appears of a bright green hue, varying
in shade according to his depth, but as he darts from wave to
wave, the eye is delighted by ever-varying flashes of green,
gold, and silvery tints.
To those for the first time sailing in the southern hemisphere,
the brightness of the constellations, their novelty, and the
clearness of the atmosphere, is a source of wonder and delight.
Preeminent among them stands the constellation of the "South
ern Cross ;'' early Christian voyagers regarded it with unspeak-

18 ALUNAEBOW.
able awe as a symbol of their faith. Its beauty has been sung
by poets of every tongue, and it was the first constellation no
ticed and named south of the equator. It is composed of four
bright stars, the two which form the top and bottom of the
cross haviDg the same right ascension ; consequently the figure
of the cross is perpendicular when on the meridian.
In the same field of view the constellation of the Magellan
Clouds is descried, consisting of two small white patches
always maintaining their relative positions, and without chang
ing in shape or appearance. They probably derive their name
from having first been described by Magellan, or perhaps from
the fact that when within the straits of that name the constella
tion appears directly overhead, as if a standing beacon for
those entering. They are two nebulous masses of light con
spicuously visible, and appear to be portions of the milky way.
When examined through a telescope they present a singular
appearance, and are found to be composed of an infinite variety
of small clustering stars.
During the voyage, I had an opportunity of witnessing some
thing of rare occurrence — a Lunar Bow. The moon was at its
full ; a heavy mass of dark black clouds suddenly arising, ob
scured the firmament ; a torrent of rain began to fall, and the
moon, struggling through the clouds, threw her bright rays
upon the falling drops, forming a perfect silver arc extending
from horizon to horizon. The effect was grand, the deep
background of those iuky clouds being in strange contrast with
the splendor of that broad, bright bow.
After once taking the southeast trades, they rarely leave
you until you are on the Brazilian coast, and they generally
blow with great uniformity, usually veering but two or three

APPROACH TO RIO. 19
points during the twenty-four hours. We were at this time
favored with a steady breeze, and with studding-sails drawing,
went kiteing away before wind and sea, and on the  day
from New York our observations showed us to be within one
hundred miles of the entrance to Rio Janeiro harbor.
The approach of dawn on the morning following, found the
decks of our little craft covered with eager expectants, all anx
iously awaiting a first glance at the coast Of Brazil, and the
breaking day revealed to our delighted gaze the bold and lofty
headlands of Cape Frio. This cape is the extremity of a high
mountainous promontory, rising abruptly from the sea until
lost in the misty clouds which hover round its summit, and is a
spur of the long range running northerly up the coast. This
is the first land that is made in coming from the eastward, and
is to the mariner a well-known and unmistakable landmark.
On its summit has recently been erected a lighthouse, which
may be seen a long way sea-ward on a clear night. It was a
matter of speculation to us as to how the light-keeper ever
scaled his eyrie, and whether or not he held his office for life, as
it seemed that after once arriving at the scene of his labors, he
would have no desire again to brave the perils of a descent.
The coast running north and south up to this point, here
turns abruptly off to the westward, and sixty miles distant lies
the Port of Rio Janeiro. The land from the Cape, westward,
is a huge mountain wall rising perpendicularly from the sea.
Its jagged peaks shooting upward in bold relief against the
sky, a luxuriant and eternal verdure covering them, from base
to summit, while the light and shade produced by projecting
crag and deep ravine, with water leaping from precipice to
precipice, makes a grand perspective.

20 UNTIE BIO,
A few hours' sail along this granite barrier brought us
abreast the harbor, and towering high above us frowned the
lofty summit of the Sugar Loaf. Here the breeze deserted us,
and we lay the livelong night rolling heavily on the bar await
ing impatiently the light and wind enough to carry us in. About
ten o'clock the next morning the breeze came in from the sea
and filled our sails, and as we neared the entrance, a world of
natural beauty fascinated our delighted gaze.

CHAPTER II.
RIO JANEIRO.
Describes the Entrance to Rio Janeiro — Its splendid Harbor — Gives a
slight Historical Sketch of it — General Description of the City, its
Churches, Palaces, its Hospitals and its Villas — Touches upon Slavery
and its' Abuses — Gives Ideas of Catholicism as existing in Brazil
and the Depravity of its Priests — Treats of the State of Society —
Gives Descriptions of the Emperor, the Empress, and of the Brazilian
Court.
The only ingress to this magnificent harbor leads through a
narrow cleft of that granite mountain on whose sides bristle
fortresses which, ably defended, would defy the navies of the
world. As we swung close under the precipice a, sentinel hailed
us, demanding our name and nation, and bade us pass on.
Now fully before us stretched away the harbor of the " Hid
den Water."
Terrace upon terrace, dressed in loveliest verdure; islet upon
islet, resting in the deep shade of overhanging hills; turretted
fortresses, spires and domes ; hamlets peeping through groves
of orange trees, crafts of novel structure, with the graceful
lateen sail, scudding swiftly by ; stately ships of war, with
the colors of every nation at their peak, and the city rambling
o'er valley and hill, formed a coup d'oeil which it does not often
fall to the lot of man to gaze upon — too lovely as a whole for
21

22 bio.
the eye, yet unsatisfied, to. attempt to discriminate its indivi
dual beauties. With shortened sail we glided slowly to an
anchorage. Cheer after cheer arising from the California-
bound ships as we slowly picked our way among them, when
suddenly luffing in the wind, we let go our anchor abreast the
fort. The anchor down, I went aloft and took a lengthened view
of the surrounding scenery. About a league from us lay the
town of Rio Janeiro, and few cities show to better advantage.
Built without regard to regularity, running along the beach,
up the sides of hills, through ravines, its suburbs stretching
away, circling around coves and capes, an idea is given of a
place far larger than it really is. Abounding in churches, con
vents and fortifications, for the most part located on command
ing elevations, with a high mountain range for a background,
the whole forms a tout ensemble at once picturesque, romantic
and imposing.
The suburbs of the Gloria and Botofogo, running along the
base of "the mountains, now hiding in an orange grove, now cir
cling an intruding indentation of the bay, now disappearing
altogether behind some chapel-crowned hill, and now running
half way up the mountain side, with its gardens and its towers,
present a sweet piece of natural coquetry to the admiring gaze;
the houses, built in the Italian style, bright with the prevailing
gilt, green and white, which add greatly to the charming
scene. To the northward the bay stretches away many miles into
the interior, white with glistening sails and studded with islets,
until, it seems at last to wash the very feet of the mighty
Organ mountains. Opposite the city, across the bay, lies the

e i o . 23
beautiful village of Praya Grande, consisting principally of
the residences of merchants doing business in the city. Like the
Gloria and Botofogo it revels among secluded nooks, and courts
the shady orange grove, and, like its sisters, hiding coquetishly
behind hedges of flowering shrubs.
Half an hour after our arrival, the Custom House barge
came alongside, pulled by twenty negroes, who at every stroke
rose on their feet, and then throwing their whole weight upon
the oar, fell back into their seats. The boat was a very large
one, and the stern sheets woofed over with an arched awning
made of bamboo, and was also furnished with a writing table,
and cane sofas on which the officers reclined.
The captain of the port first came over the side, followed by
a lieutenant, an interpreter and a secretary. The captain and
his aid were dressed in most elaborate uniforms, glittering with
gold-lace and stars ; the former had evidently a high opinion
of his own importance, but was, nevertheless, quite affable, and
inclined to be accommodating ; the interpreter (as is generally
the case in South American ports) knew nothing of the lan
guage beyond a few ordinary phrases, which he kept con
tinually repeating with great volubility ; when addressed, he
became very dignified, and like Punch's dog, contented him
self with looking very wisely. The captain of the port's boat
was followed by that of the health officer, who, with his
attendants, was likewise ostentatious in his uniform. After
examining our bill of health, he retired, not, however, before
giving us leave to visit shore at our pleasure.
Before going ashore, let us take a retrospective glance at
the history of the empire. In the year 1*715, Nicolas de Ville-
gagnon, an officer of distinction in the French navy, formed an

21 HISTORICAL SKETCH.
expedition uuder the sanction of Henri IL, then reigning
monarch, for the purpose of founding a colony on the coast of
Brazil ; the ostensible object of this project being to establish
an asylum for persecuted Protestants. He obtained the con
nivance and patronage of the venerable Admiral Coligny, and
through his instrumentality succeeded in collecting a goodly
number of followers.
After encountering countless perils, he entered the bay of
" Nitherhoy" or Hiddenwater, and proceeded at once to build
a fortress, which was called after his patron, Coligny, on an
island named after himself, " Villegagnon." This colony was
unfortunate, however, from the very outset, and to crown all,
its leader apostatized, and commenced in the New World the
persecutions they had flown from in the Old.
Accessions were being made at this time in considerable
numbers in Europe, when, on hearing of the treachery of
Villegagnon, and of the various mishaps which had, in con
sequence, befallen the colonists, they decided on abandoning
their designs, and thus the colony receiving no aid or
support from home, soon dwindled into insignificance. Who
can say what might have not been the destiny of this mag
nificent country, had Villegagnon been true to the cause ?
When we look and wonder at the rapid strides she has made
in civilization and in the arts under the narrow and crooked
policy of designing Jesuits ; knowing as we do the blighting
influence of Romanism upon a young nation, crippling ber
energies and fettering her development with fanaticism and
superstition, does not the thought suggest itself, that, had that
infant colony been permitted to flourish — had favorable
accounts been received of its progress in Europe — had those

HISTORICAL SKETCH. 25
emigrants, on the eve of setting forth, not been deterred by
disastrous news, and in fine, had the colony gradually merged
into a nation, entertaining the Protestant faith, and holding
all the liberal views incidental thereto, is it not possible that
the Brazilian nation might have fulfilled as happy a destiny as
has the republic of the United States of America ? Both
colonies were founded in the same " terra incognita;" having
the same advantages as regards fertility of soil, and very
nearly the same diversity of climate. Colonized within but
a few years of each other, the English Pilgrim and the French
Huguenot held a common faith. The one was successful in his
scheme, and now behold the glory of the nation sprung from
the seed sown by the Covenanters ; foremost in the ranks of
nations, she stands the exponent of a successful scheme !
On the other hand, behold a nation reared upon the ashes
of the Huguenot, whose progress has been impeded at every
step by ignorance and superstition, and the narrow policy of
designing men, many of whom were of a high order of intel
lect, but whose talents were neutralized, and whose con
victions were gagged by the invisible influence of their unholy
religion. In the year 1760, Rio superseded Balhia as the vice-regal
residence. In 1808, John the Sixth of Portugal, fearful of
falling into the hands of Napoleon, hastily fled from the
peninsula with all his family^ and arrived at Rio in the month
of March of the same year. Up to this pSriod, Brazil had been
looked upon as an unimportant colony, and its government had
been administered in the most absolute manner. All foreign
commerce being strictly prohibited, no foreign vessel had been
allowed to enter its waters, but in case of their being obliged
2

26 HISTORICAL SKETCH.
to run in from stress of weather, they were only allowed to
refit, and no foreigner was permitted, under any pretext, to set
foot in the interior.
On the arrival of the prince, thejiorts were thrown open to
commerce, institutions of learning and science were founded,
and printing presses introduced ; all this put new life arid
energy into the colony, and changed the whole aspect of
affairs. Each day saw new resources developed, and the young
pulse of the colony began to throb with increasing strength.
This prosperity begat new ideas, and the Brazilians not being
able to endure the thought of being a colony, a decree was
published by which the colony became a kingdom. After a
few years, the popularity of John VI. began to wane, and in
1821, he appointed his son, Don Pedro, regent of Brazil, and
embarked himself for Portugal.
The mother country growing uneasy at the increasing im
portance of her offspring, issued an order to Don Pedro to
present himself before the court at Lisbon, and give an account
of his stewardship ; and deported herself so arrogantly and
overbearingly, that a revolt was the consequence, and the Bra
zilians determined upon a separation from her. In September,
1822, Don Pedro was crowned Emperor of Brazil, under the
title of Don Pedro I.; he married Leopoldina, archduchess
of the house of Austria, and reigned about ten years, but be
coming tyrannical and unpopular, he was obliged to abdicate
in favor of his son Pedro de Aloantara, and to take refuge in
Europe. Don Pedro IL, was declared to have attained his major
ity on July 23d, 1840, in the sixteenth year of his age, and
in 1841 married Teresa, sister of the king of Sicily, and in the

SAILASHORE. 27
same year, his sister married the eldest son of Louis Phillippe,
of Franco, the Prince de Joinville, thus cementing a blood
alliance with a powerful nation. * * * *
Jumping into one of the many shore boats hovering around
us, I ordered the negro boatman to shove off, and in a moment
Was clear of the vessel, when loosening the sail, we spun shore
ward before a spanking breeze. Having got everything snug,
the negro coolly handing 'me the sheet, and motioning me to
take the tiller, stretched himself under the thwarts for a nap.
Left to myself, and my own reflections, I gave myself up to
the novelty of the scene. Rio Janeiro.
For the first mile, my track lay through the fleet of Califor
nia-bound ships, to the number of some eighty or a hundred,
their decks filled with emigrants, attired in the most outlandish
style, whose shouts, songs, and laughter disturbed the quiet
echoes of the bay. Around each ship were grouped native
canoes, laden with every variety of fruit, live stock and
curiosity from the shore, the owners of which with their wild
gesticulations to excite the attention of purchasers, their con
stant squabbles among themselves for precedence, the chatter
ing of parrots and monkeys, the bleating of sheep and cack
ling of poultry, formed an amusing feature of the scene.
Clearing the fleet, we rapidly neared the guard-boat, when
luffing under her stern and .being scrutinized, we were per
mitted to continue our course, and once more easing off the
sheet, in a few moments we were in the passage-way between
the Isla de Cobra and the city, and shooting a few lengths
ahead, the keel grated on the beach. Leaping ashore, I found

28 HOTEL PHAROUX.
myself in the palace square ; before me rose the imperial
palace, for many years the vice-regal residence, but now used
for state offices, a suite of rooms, however, being reserved for
the court when they visited the city on state occasions.
The building material is of a yellowish stone, and in the
style of the old Portuguese and Spanish architecture ; it is
quite extensive, and flanked on the left with a chapel, whose
cloisters are immediately in the rear, and at present attached
to the palace. From a balcony fronting the square, the em
peror, on gala days, reviews the troops and shows himself to
the populace. From this gallery extends a lovely view, and
being open to the sea, makes it a peculiarly airy and agreeable
lounge. Occupying the lower side of the square, is a pile of lofty
buildings, chiefly pertaining to the Hotel Pharoux, the best
inn in Rio, immediately in front of which is a small promenade,
jutting into the sea, and here the merchants assemble morning
and evening to take the air and view the shipping.
The " Hotel Pharoux," is kept by a Frenchman, and is on a
grand scale, the lower floors being occupied by a restaurant of
n'o mean pretensions, as well as by billiard and bath rooms.
The chambers are large and airy, and the furniture showy and
suited to a warm climate. Those who succeed in getting
xooms fronting the bay are fortunate indeed, I myself was one
of the favored ; every morning as the day dawned, I opened
the window, drew my bed across it, and lay quietly gazing on
the scene before me. Directly below, was the landing-place
for small boats, and at that early hour the market-boats from
every vessel in the harbor, numbering at least two hundred, were
there assembled, some riding off at a little distance, and others

PANDEMONIUM. 29
along side the mole — Spanish, English, French, Dutch and
Portuguese — all vociferating at the top of their voices, each
in his own peculiar dialect. Stewards were rushing to and fro
with their market baskets and hailing their respective boats,
who were making desperate efforts to penetrate the little
flotilla and reach the shore ; chandlers' clerks with stores, tiny
midshipmen, with swords as long as themselves, ordering at
the top of their little cracked voices ; refractory sailors, who
with an eye to grog, were endeavoring to negotiate with the
land-sharks, who are always attracted on such occasions, like
vultures from afar ; together with negro boatmen, noisily
soliciting a fare, fruit venders, and peddlers of every article
under the sun, formed a scene of confusion that would have
put old Babel itself to the blush.
Further on in the line of view lay the naval fleets of Eng
land, France, America and Spain. There they rode in peaceful
contiguity, seemingly dull and motionless, but within each hull
throbbed a tiny world, Argus-eyed in the interest of the nation
they represented, and ever on the alert, like faithful watch
dogs, ready to show their bristling teeth. Over and beyond
them, on the other side of the bay, the pretty villas of Praya
Grande Came peeping forth from the morning's mist, and the
mighty Organ mountains looked mightier still through the rising
sun's refracted rays.
In front of the palace is a large ornamental fountain, around
which is always collected a noisy group of slaves, men and wo
men water-carriers, who, while filling their jars, chattered their
incomprehensible jargon. The sea-wall running along the edge
of the square is a favorite lounging-place for idlers of all sorts :
nurses with their little charges ; female slaves in ther pictur-

30 MARKETPLACE.
esque attire of gaudy turban and calico, with gilt rings around
wrist and ankle, bearing on their heads trays piled with sweet
meats, whose virtues they extol with not very melodious voices ;
lazy policemen, looking more like monkeys than human beings,
and about on a par with them in intellect ; diseased slaves,
turned out as useless and to die, all congregate here to pass the
morning hours.
Further along the water's edge extends the market, with as
fine an assortment of fish, flesh, and fowl, as is to be seen in
any part of the world ; the vegetables and fruits being large
and most luscious in flavor. Hopping about in their hundred
little cages, parrots, and endless varieties of the feathered tribe,
give forth their notes, to which monkeys of all descriptions,
from the Marmoset to the Ring-tail, chatter an accompani
ment. Leading out of the upper side of the Square is the Rua Di-
reita, the principal street in Rio ; wide, and tolerably well paved,
it is the central point of all .the wholesale business of the city.
Here is situated the Custom House, Merchants' Exchange, the
National Bank and Post-Office, and, consequently, throughout
business hours it is a place of general resort. The absence of
horse power for the transportation of goods, strikes a stranger
most forcibly, when he sees carts heavily laden dragged by
struggling negroes over a ragged pavement. Huge boxes and
bales are thus carried from place to place, sometimes in carts,
at others on the backs and shoulders of slaves. This, of course,
very much retards the speed of business, and has a most un
happy effect upon the unfortunate blacks thus degraded to the
vel of the brute.
The Custom House has its principal entrance on the Rua Di-

CUSTOMHOUSE. 31
reita, and runs back to the water, covering an immense
space of ground ; but all the different departments centering
under a common roof, gives an idea of great confusion in their
mode of doing business. The Rotunda (used as the Collector's
office) is a very spacious apartment, of a circular form, with a
tier of desks running around it, occupied by clerks dispatching
goods, etc. In this apartment, under their very noses, is heaped
an indiscriminate variety of cases, bales, and boxes, some of
which are being hammered open by porters, others under exa
mination by garrulous officers, and others being closed ; the din
attendant upon the operation is terrific, as any one who has
had to do with Spanish or Portuguese officials may imagine.
The rest of the building is occupied by the offices of the captain
of the port, inspectors, etc., etc. The scale of duties.on all im
ports is excessive, and on exports scarcely less burdensome, and
the restrictions on any business connected with vessels are of
the most illiberal character. No boat can go off to a vessel in
the harbor without first calling at a guard-boat anchored in
the bay, and the same formality must be gone through with on
returning on shore. Every possible annoyance is thrown in
the way of those attempting to transact business for the first
time with the Custom House, and it is only by bleeding freely
that you can get along with these officials at all. The number
of clerks and employees of different sorts is prodigious, and one
can see without difficulty the absolute necessity of this system
atized scheme of robbery and extortion, on remarking the num
ber of good-for-nothing hangers-on drawing their maintenance
from this one department. These worthies all wear uniform
from the highest to the lowest, and are most insolent and vul
gar in their bearing.

32 RUAOUVIDOR.
The Exchange, adjoining the Custom House, is a fine looking
building, modern in style, its upper stories fitted up with read
ing-rooms in which are to be found the newspapers and peri
odicals of the principal cities of the world, and below is the
meeting-place for merchants and strangers, and where the
business of the day is discussed. Striking off at right angles
from the Rua Direita is the Rua Ouvidor, the principal street
of the retail trade ; the shop windows are decorated with
great taste, and here is displayed for sale every article which
taste could suggest or luxury devise ; Paris, London, Canton,
and Calcutta have'all contributed, while the brilliancy of the
diamonds and the rich yellow hue of the golden ornaments sug
gest extravagant ideas of native wealth. This in common with
most of the streets in Rio is extremely narrow, the pavements
scarcely admitting of two to walk abreast, and the street, gra
dually inclining towards the centre, forms a . large gutter which
is invariably full of filth. The water pipes of the houses,
instead of leading to the ground, reach only as far as the bal
conies of the second story, and there discharge their contents ;
thus on a rainy day, one is continually dodging streams of
water rushing down from the roofs of houses by which he may
be passing.
The streets being too narrow for two vehicles, to pass abreast
without encroaching on the sidewalk, one is obliged to keep his
eyes open, and on the first intimation of their approach rush
for shelter into some friendly doorway, which however does
not always save him from being splashed with mud.
Omnibuses have here been introduced, and being drawn by
four horses, are driven up and down the streets at full speed by
their negro Jehus ; their approach can be heard- half a mile

BRAZILIAN JEHUS. 33
off, and was always a signal of terror ; people flew iu every
direction for safety, and the looks of dismay of the lazy blacks
awakened from their naps were most amusing. The ordinary
vehicle in use is an immense gig, poised aloft on a pair of
enormous coach springs of the old-fashioned kind ; Ihis is
drawn by a single horse, ridden by a negro " en postillion,"
who rushes him at every pile of rubbish and filth he sees,
yelling at the same time like a madman ; the motion is awful,
and many a novice is made sick by it. The houses are gene
rally lofty, the lower part being occupied as stores, and the
upper stories as dwellings; while not unfrequently the garret is
the kitchen of the establishment. Their color is generally
white, which gives them a neat and cheerful appearance, the
dazzling effect being obviated by the green blinds of the
jalousies. The city proper, from the narrowness of its streets
and the loftiness of the houses, has rather a confined air,
although boasting of some fine squares ; the suburbs extend
however three or four miles in three different directions, and
their streets being wide and airy and remote from the traffic of
the city are exceeding cleanly. The houses bordering on them
are handsome and spacious and of elegant exterior, each
occupying a large space of ground, generally under a high state
of cultivation, producing a most delightful effect. In these
suburbs the foreign ministers, consuls, government officers and
wealthy merchants reside, where after the turmoil of business
they retire from the bustle and heat of the city to enjoy the
"farniente" of their domestic paradise. Says a German:
"Nothing can be compared to the beauty of these retreats,
when the most sultry hours of the day are passed and the gen
tle breezes, impregnated with balsamic perfumes from neighbor-
2*

34 MOONLIGHT.
ing wooded mountains, cool the air; the enjoyment continues to
increase as night spreads over the land and the sea, which
shines at a distance, and the city where the noises of business
have ceased is gradually lighted up. He who has not person
ally participated in the enjoyment of the tranquil moonlight in
these happy latitudes, can never be inspired, even by the most
faithful description, with those feelings which scenes of such
wondrous beauty excite in the mind of the beholder : a deli
cate transparent mist hangs over the country, the moon shines
brightly amid the singularly grouped clouds, the outlines of the
objects which are illuminated by it are clear and well defined,
while a magic twilight seems to remove from the eye those
which are in the shade. Scarce a breath is stirring, and the
neighboring mimosas, which have folded up their leaves to sleep,
stand motionless behind the dark crowns ¦ of the mango, the
iaca and the etherial iambos ; or sometimes a sudden wind
arises, and the sapless leaves of the acaju rustle, and the richly
flowered gramejama and pitanga let fall a fragrant shower of
snow white blossoms ; shrill cries of the cicada, the grasshop
per, and the tree-frog make an incessant hum and produce by
their monotonous song a pleasant melancholy.
"A stream gently murmuring descends from the mountain,
and the macuc, with its almost human voice, seems to call for
help from a distance. Every quarter of an hour different
balsamic odors fill the air, and other flowers alternately unfold
their leaves to the night, and almost overpower the senses with
their perfume ; now it is tbe bowers of the paulinia or the
neighboring orange grove, then the thick tufts of the eupa-
toria or the branches of the flowers of the palm suddenly
bursting and disclosing their blossoms, which maintain a con-

VIEW FROM THE OOROOVADA. 35
stant succession of fragrance. While the silent vegetable
world, illuminated by swarms of fire-flies as by thousands of
roving stars, charms the night by its delicious effluvia — brilliant
lightnings play incessantly in the horizon, and elevate the mind
in joyful admiration of the stars, which, glowing in solemn
silenee in the firmament above, fill us with sentiments of still
sublimer wonder."
The finest view of Rio and its harbor is to be obtained from
the summit of the Corcovada, a lofty peak of about 2,000 feet,
towering above the city and almost overhanging it. This
mountain being accessible almost to the summit on horseback,
the ascent is not very fatiguing ; the first part of the ascent
leads through a dense primeval forest with a thick undergrowth
of vines and flowering shrubs, and one naturally pauses in mute
admiration of the luxuriance and gigantic proportions of tropic
vegetation. An extract from the translation of a German
work may not be out of place. " Instead of the uniform
poverty of species of the European forest, especially in the
north, there is here an infinite diversity in form, stem, leaf and
blossom. Almost every one of these sovereigns of the forest
is distinguished, in the total effect of the picture, from its
neighbor. While the silk cotton tree, partly armed with
thorns, begins at a considerable height from the ground to
spread out its arms, and its dilated leaves are grouped in light
and airy masses, the luxuriant lecythis and the Brazilian anda
shoot out from a less height many a branch profusely covered
with leaves, which unite to form a verdant arcade ; the jacanda
attracts the eye by the lightness of its double-feathered leaves,
and the large, gold-colored flowers of this tree and the ipi
dazzle by their splendor contrasted with the dark-green foliage.

36 A BRAZILIAN FOREST.
The spondia arches its pennated leaves into light oblong forms ;
a very peculiar and most striking effect in the picture, is that
produced by the trumpet tree among the lofty forms of the
forest. The smooth, grey stems of the. ash, rise slightly bend
ing, to a considerable height, and spread out at the top in ver-
ticillated branches, standing at right angles, which have at
their extremities large tufts of deeply lobated white leaves ;
the flowery c&salpina — the airy laurel — the lofty geoffroca —
the soap tree, with its shining leaves — the slender cedar — here
and there the dark crown of the Chilian fir, among the lighter
green, appears like a stranger among the natives of the tropics,
while the towering stems of the palms, with their waving
crowns, are an incomparable ornament of the forest, the beauty
and majesty of which no tongue can adequately describe. But
the animal kingdom which people these ancient forests, are not
less distinguishable than the vegetable world.
" Except at high noon, when all living creatures in the torrid
zone seek shade and repose, and when a solemn stillness is
diffused over the scene, illuminated by the dazzling beams of
the sun, every hour of the day calls into action another race of
animals ; the morning is ushered in by the howling of monkeys,
the high and deep tones of the tree-toad and frog, the monoto
nous chirp of the grasshopper and locust. When the rising
sun has dispelled the mists which preceded it, all creatures
rejoice in the return of day ; the wasps leave their long nests,
the ants issue from their dwellings, the gayest butterflies, rivall
ing in color the splendors of the rainbow, flutter from flower to
flower, or collect in separate companies on the sunny banks of
the cool streams ; the blue, shining menelaus and the large
eurytochus, with its oscillated wings, hover like birds in the

A BRAZILIAN FOREST. 37
green bushes of the moist valleys — the foronia, with rustling
wings, flies from tree to tree, while the owl, the largest of the
moth kind, sits immovably on the trunk, with outspread wings,
awaiting the approach of evening. Myriads of brilliant beetles
buzz in the air and sparkle like jewels in the fresh green of the
leaves or on the odorous flowers ; meanwhile, agile lizards,
remarkable for form and size and brilliant color, dark-colored
poisonous serpents, which exceed in splendor the enamel of the
flowers, glide out of the leaves and the hollows of the trees,
and creeping up their stems, bask in the sun. Squirrels and
troops of monkeys issue inquisitively from the thick woods, and
chattering, leap from tree to tree. Birds of the most singular
form and superb plumage flutter singly or in companies through
the fragrant bushes — green, blue and red parrots filling the air
with their screams — the toucan, sitting on the extreme
branches, rattles with his large hollow bill in loud and plain
tive notes, wailing for rain ; the busy oriole announces, with
screaming cries, the approach of man ; the amorous thrush
pours forth a stream of delicious melody ; and the delicate
humming-bird, rivalling in beauty and lustre diamonds, eme
ralds and sapphires, hovers around the brightest flowers."
On approaching the summit, the trees become scarce, vegeta
tion, however, reaching the extremest point of elevation. The
panorama that bursts upon the view when the summit is gained
cannot be exceeded for beauty or diversity in the world ; never
did the eye rest upon a scene more strikingly fascinating. The
view is most comprehensive ; the bay with its archipelago of
beautiful islets ; the long ranges of lofty mountain spurs diverg
ing in every direction •• the deep blue sea beyond, whose long
swells eternally break and foam at the feet of the hoary-headed

38 CHURCHES.
Sugar Loaf, which raises its lofty peak a marked feature in the
picture ; the fleet at anchor, and hundreds of native craft mov
ing gaily across the line of view ; the huge Organ Mountains,
blue in the distance ; and the city, with its chapel-crowned
heights, and flanked by her smiling suburbs, are lovely to
behold; and the chimes of the deep-toned bells stealing up
ward, sweetly breaking the death-like stillness, strike melodi
ously upon the ear.
Rio is rich in churches, there being about fifty in number,
many of which are vast in proportions and imposing in appear
ance, while the chapels attached to the convents are in some
instances more spacious than the churches themselves, and
generally more elaborately constructed and richer in ornament ¦
the holy fathers, their founders, dreading the fevers incident to
a residence on the lower lands and swamps, chose as the site of
their edifices commanding elevations, where, free from malaria,
they could at the same time enjoy the delightful sea breezes
and an unobstructed view of the surrounding scenery ; conse
quently, almost all the prominent hills in the immediate vicinity
of the city are occupied by some chapel or monastery.
The church of the Candellaria is perhaps the most imposing
in point of structure ; and next, that of the Rosario. These
churches are very large, their altars rich in decorations, and
the votaries worshipping at their shrines most devout and
numerous. The church of our " Lady of Glory," crowns a
commanding height, and is most beautifully situated ; and here
the emperor and empress weekly kneel before her altars. On
a lofty island in the middle of the harbor, is the church of
"Bom Viagem," or " Good Voyage," l\ere all mariners offer
their vows before going to sea; and many are the precious

CONVENTS. 39
candlesticks which decorate her altars, and which were vowed
in the dark hour of shipwreck and despair.
The convent of St. Benedict is the richest, most extensive
and interesting of all the convents of Rio ; it is built on an
eminence overhanging the sea, and upon its corridors, after the
labors of the day are over, the fathers are wont to assemble
at eventide, to feast their eyes on the lovely view and refresh
themselves with the cooling sea breezes.
This structure is of a massive and gloomy exterior, but on
entering and ascending a stone stairway, you gain the corridor,
extending the whole length of the building, and terminating
at either end in a large hall; these halls are hung with paint
ings, representing the saints, and portraits of the most promi
nent of the deceased members of the order. Here also is an
extensive library, containing several thousand volumes, which
is open to the public ; a most charming retreat for the student
or man of literature. The convent of Santa Teresa, also
beautifully situated, is at the other extremity of the city, and
of a still gloomier exterior, the iron-barred windows and mass
ive moss-grown masonry, giving it rather a repulsive appear
ance. Opposite to Santa Teresa, is the convent of San An
tonio, vying with the others in beauty of location ; its brother
hood are sworn to eternal poverty, but notwithstanding their
vows, they are said to be one of the richest in Rio. The
building is very extensive, having several large chapels, a libra
ry, containing some four thousand volumes, a refectory, a hos
pital, and likewise spacious cloisters. Nunneries were never
favorite institutions with the Brazilians, they never contemplate
with patience, that system of shutting up within four walls
the maiden just on the threshold of womanhood, understand-

40 HOSPITALS.
ing too well the importance of an increasing population, to
sympathize in an institution which deprives them of wives
and mothers.
Independently of this consideration, the Brazilians have a
vein of liberal jfeeling running through their religious ideas,
which penetrates the shallow veil of monkish superstition and
priestly intrigue, and which convinces them that monastic in
fluence is antagonistic to an advanced state of civilization.
The hospitals reflect great credit upon the city, as well for
their commodiousness and cleanliness, as for their liberal sup
port and the disinterested kindness of those connected with
them ; they are managed by brotherhoods, who devote them
selves to their interests. The most extensive of the hospitals
is that of the " Misericordia," on the sea-shore, which is
open to all, whatever their nation, rank or color ; it was the
first institution of the kind erected in Rio, and dates back as
far as 1582. A new building is now nearly completed, its plan
being on the most extensive scale, built altogether by private
subscription; it is, in fact, a noble charity, and well worthy
the support which it receives. There are patients to the
amount of six thousand, annually admitted, although there are
a very large proportion of deaths. Connected with this in
stitution is a foundling hospital, called " Casa de Roda," or
" House of the Wheel," from the fact, that in the wall of the
building is constructed a wheel, in which there is a compart
ment where infants can be deposited from the street ; as it
receives its burden, it immediately revolves sufficiently to con
vey it inside the walls. Thus any one wishing to* hide the
fruits of their guilt, and wanting to be rid of the care and
responsibility of a young babe, may place it in this receptacle,

EDUCATION. 41
where it will be at once provided for ; in spite of all this pre
caution and care, however, the mortality among the little ones
is terrible, for out of four or five hundred yearly taken in, at
least one half if not two-thirds die. Auxiliary to this institu
tion is an asylum for female foundlings, who are received at a
tender age, brought up with the utmost care, educated, and
taught useful accomplishments, and on a certain day of each
year, the doors are thrown open to the public ; the girls, taste
fully dressed, go through their various exercises, and donations
are received from those who feel inclined to favor the char
ity ; when, likewise, any young man who may be in want of
a wife, is at liberty to choose one of these young girls, to
whom, if he prove to be a man of character, he is married by the
institution, who gives the bride a dower of three hundred dollars.
The Brazilians possess greater educational advantages than
any of the South American nations, and the fruits of the sys
tem are everywhere visible ; colleges and schools, both public
and private, are very numerous; the public schools which con
tain over a thousand pupils, being barely sufficient to supply
the wants of an increasing population.
There is a naval and military academy under government
patronage, for the purpose of educating officers for either ser
vice, which is open to all possessed of certain acquirements
requisite to qualify them for admission. The pupil here enjoys
privileges of a high order, and after pursuing his studies for a
term of years, is entitled to hold a certain rank in the service
to which he belongs ; as far as I can learn, the officers of the
Brazilian navy, as a body, stand high in their profession, as
well for their scientific attainments, as for their nautical quali
fications.

42 PRIESTCRAFT.
The standard of education among the ecclesiastics is not
very high, their ability to go through the Latin forms of the
Mass book being the only intellectual test required for entering
the priesthood, not one in a hundred can speak any language
other than his own, and but very few can deliver an intelligible
discourse. I met a good many during my stay at Rio, but to a
man, they were utterly without any knowledge of the resources
of their country, its topography, or productions ; in fact,
beyond the city of Rio, they neither knew nor cared anything.
I was told there was a good deal of cultivated intellect among
the monastic orders, but saw none of it ; considering the
materials at their disposal in their fine libraries, their ignor
ance would be most culpable.. Through their laxity of morals,
and their ignorance, and want of energy, the clergy have greatly
lost caste, principally, however, among the better classes ;
indeed, the priestly garb is in such bad odor, that few of the
higher class care to take orders, and consequently their ranks
are filled from the lower walks of life. Entering into the
holy office from motives of expediency, redolent of vulgar su
perstition and prejudice, they tyrannize over the poor, and
truckle to the rich, using every effort to exclude all light, and
frowning down all innovation, as tending to subvert their in
fluence ; thus their superiors look upon them with contempt,
and though they adhere to the tenets of the church, they des
pise their ignorance. To this feeling may be attributed
the astonishing advances made by this nation in civilization,
the arts and sciences, within a few years, leading them to a
general intercourse with foreigners, and free exercise of their
intellectual faculties untrammelled by priestly interference.
The climate of Rio is delightfully mild and regular, perfectly

FEVER AND SLAVE TRADE. 43
free from extremes of heat or of cold. During the months of
January and February (mid-summer) the heat at noon is fre
quently oppressive, but the evenings and mornings are always
cool and refreshing ; in the months of July and August (mid
winter) the air is elastic and bracing, being peculiarly suited to
invalids. Rain is frequent at all seasons of the year, refreshing
the heated atmoshere of mid-summer, and rendering vegetation
bright and beautiful all the year round. The thermometer
shows an average temperature for mid-day in mid-summer of
from 76° to 86° Fahrenheit. Up to the year 1850, the climate
of Rio was considered to be one of the healthiest on the globe,
and up to that period free from all epidemics, and in fact from all
diseases beyond a few simple fevers, which yielded readily to
medical treatment ; but in the year 1850, the black vomit, in
all its horror, there established its throne, and claimed thou
sands for its victims ; consternation seized upon the whole po
pulation, and Rio and its environs, that terrestrial paradise, be
came a very charnel house. The fever attacked all indiscrimi
nately, but was more fatal to the whites, and there are few fa
milies there who do not mourn a member, a victim to the
scourge. The pure air of the cool season dissipates the malaria,
but each returning summer brings with it the fatal poison.
To the slaver can be traced this dread malady, in form more
malignant and deadly than any previously known on this con
tinent ; it was imported in slave ships, which arriving
crowded to suffocation with negroes more or less diseased, the
poison escaped from their filthy kennels, and disseminating it
self into the atmosphere, tainted and blasted whatever came
in contact with it. The slave trade, until the year 1850, was
carried on with unabated vigor ; many vessels and vast sums

44 SLAVETRADE.
of money were employed in this ungodly traffic, and cargo after
cargo openly landed on the coast. The English took every
precaution to guard against it, but with small success ; armed
vessels cruised outside the harbor, and steamers were ready at
a moment's warning to pursue ; still it seemed as if this very
opposition only served to increase the profits of the slaver by
enhancing the value of the slave. Many foreigners are engaged
in the traffic, their headquarters being at Rio, and I knew sev
eral Americans who were largely interested, and who thought
it no shame to avow it ; the natives are large dealers, and im
mense sums are annually realized by them. The slaves of Rio
bear a very large proportion to the free population, and are
treated in the most inhuman manner ; half fed, half clothed,
without shelter, and frequently no resting-place other than the
bare ground, over worked, performing the functions of pack
animals, they wear a sullen, despairing look, which sickens the
heart to behold. They very often become deformed from be
ing overloaded, and their limbs contorted in the most horrible
manner, and diseases are thus brought on, which soon render
them useless to their employers, and lingering a year or two,
death ensues, putting an end to their sufferings ; if offensive to
their masters they are subjected to frightful punishments, from
which death often ensues.
Every free person, whatever his color, is the owner of one
or more slaves, and many of the poorer classes are main
tained by the wages of their servants ; thus anything like la
bor is held in utter disrepute by the whites, and, consequently,
the lower classes lead a life of laziness and sloth, and become
early inoculated with all the vices of which idleness is the root.
The negroes have an enemy to contend with, in the shape of an

THE JIGGER. 45
insect, from the attack of which they are often lamed for life ;
the name of this little plague is the Bichu, or, as it is vulgarly
called, the " Jigger." Smaller than the head of a pin, it gene
rally inserts itself under the toe-nail, and there deposits its eggs
in the perforation ; this, in time, produces great inflammation,
and if not removed, begets a putrefying sore. They do not con
fine their attacks to the toe, but burrow into any part of the
foot or leg, and these poor devils, by neglecting to remove
them, become most terribly maimed. I myself have suffered
severely, and on several occasions had them taken from my
foot ; the negresses are very skillful operators, and extract
them with less pain than do the surgeons themselves.
Excepting among those high in rank, there appears to bo
but little pure white blood in Brazil, and I have been astonished
to note in large assemblages the manifold shades of color ; even
among the better classes there may often be observed in a
family of half a dozen as many different tints, from European
white to African black. This excites no remark, as the Bra
zilians appear to have no aversion to amalgamation with negroes
so long as they are free and well to do in the world; this feeling
is however more prevalent in the country than in cities, and
the illegitimate children of a favorite female slave are generally
admitted on terms of perfect equality with the legitimate issue
of the planter. This being the case, it is not astonishing that
there should be so little familiar intercourse between resident
foreigners and the native society, for although the former may,
be inclined to throw aside many of his home prejudices, still he
cannot reconcile himself to be oh intimate terms with families
a portion of whom have black faces and woolly heads.
Although the males of the higher classes are very generally

46 BRAZILIAN BELLES.
men of information and in daily intercourse with foreigners,
urbane, polite and hospitably inclined, the females are usually
uneducated beyond the elementary branches and the lighter
accomplishments ; jealously guarded and fortified by an impene
trable etiquette, they have nothing to incite them to intellec
tual exertion. A Brazilian lady before marriage is never seen
excepting at a ball or public entertainment ; here she appears
to great advantage : graceful in figure, with fine eyes, black
glossy hair, and an inherent taste in dress, she bounds through
the mazes of the dance fascinating all who behold her ; but
lead her forth to enjoy a quiet promenade on the balcony and
engage her in conversation, when after discussing the dresses
of the ladies at the last tertulia she is at the end of her role,
her vivacity vanishes, and anything deeper mystifies and bores
her. I deal in generalities, for there are many exceptions ;
there is as pure blood to be found in Brazil as anywhere "in
the world, as intellectual and lovely women, but they are sadly
in the minority.
Rio enjoys an extensive and select foreign society, made up
of the corps diplomatique of different nations and resident mer
chants with their families, so that a visitor at once finds
himself at home without being dependent on that of the
natives. During my stay at Rio, I had an opportunity of seeing the
royal family on the occasion of the celebration of the birth
day of some one of its members. At about 11 o'clock a.m. the
pageant commenced. First came a regiment of horse, five
hundred strong, well mounted and showily uniformed ; follow
ing them were a dozen companies of infantry and artillery, with
their bands of music, whose performances were really very fine.

E M P E Ii O R AND EMPRESS. 47
Of these troops the majority were black, yet they were fine
soldierly-looking men, and made an imposing appearance, being
well equipped in every respect. Next came the emperor and
empress in a state coach drawn by eight milk-white mules,
magnificently caparisoned, and accompanied by a staff of
mounted officers : after them came the coaches of the aristo
cracy, vying with them in the costliness and elegance of their
equipages ; a body of 500 men, infantry and artillery, brought
up the rear.
On arriving at the Palace Square, the troops took up posi
tion on its three sides, the artillery being posted with their
pieces directly in front of the palace ; the coaches drove up
to the palace, and as their occupants alighted, at once withdrew.
After the troops were got into position and were pronounced
ready for inspection, the emperor and commander-in-chief
appeared on the balcony, when the troops filed off and passed
before them in review, again taking up their old position. The
manoeuvring being concluded, a royal salute was fired by the
artillery and a feu-de-joie of small arms by the troops ; the
empress with her maids of honor then made their appearance
on the balcony, showing themselves to the populace. I had a
fine view of the whole court, standing as I did within a few
yards of them. The emperor is a fine commanding-looking
man, florid in complexion and light hair. His features, though
heavy when not excited, when animated light up with great
vivacity. The empress is of the usual height of women, and
inclined to embonpoint, her face exceedingly pleasant and
intelligent ; her light hair, falling in curls upon her cheeks, gave
an exceedingly sweet expression to her whole countenance ;
indeed, from the character given her by her subjects, she must

48 COURT.
be exceedingly amiable. Her dress was, of course, in full court
costume: a robe of white satin with a profusion of the richest
gold embroidery, draped with Valenciennes lace and looped with
sparkling brilliants; the train was of green, velvet, fringed with
gold, and she was crowned wth a magnificent tiara of diamonds
and emeralds ; the attire of her maids of honor was very
similar, and they were all strikingly good-looking women.
The festivities of the day were concluded with an opera at the
Theatre Royal, where I went, of course. The house is a large
one and well fitted up, the part fronting the stage being wholly
appropriated to the royal box, which was luxurious in appoint-'
ment and lighted with a massive and elegant candelabra.
Although arriving at an early hour, I found almost every seat
taken and the boxes crowded with the aristocracy of Rio ;
the ladies showed to the greatest advantage in their elaborate
toilets, and the whole theatre was in a blaze of diamonds. The
curtain of the Royal box rose simultaneously with that of the
stage, displaying to our gaze the emperor in field-marshal's
uniform, beside him the empress, and behind them the members
of the royal family and the maids of honor. The national anthem
then struck up, during the performance of which the audience
stood facing the royal box, after which loud vivas arose from
the multitude, which were cordially acknowledged by their
majesties; the opera was then performed, which was only pass
able, followed by a ballet, which was execrable.

CHAPTER III.
ST. CATHARINES.
Ihe Author resigns his Presidency — Leaves his Ship and tries Steamboat
Navigation — He encounters a Pampero, which he describes — The
Steamer is knocked into a Cocked Hat — He gives himself up as lost, but
finds he is mistaken — The Gale abates and the Steamboat puts into St.
Catharines — A Description of the Harbor — The Vessel is besieged by
People of all ranks, ages and sexes, who are lost in wonder at the
sight of a River Steamboat in their Waters — The Maidens take forcible
possession of the Saloons, converting them into Ball-rooms, and the
modest young Men of Steamboats, Nolens volens, are made furiously to
Polka. — The Island is unanimously voted a Paradise, and the Author
lays himself out in describing it — The Steamboat is pronounced by a
Nautical Jury to be "a Lame Duck," and is ordered to be " Hog Braced"
before again going to Sea — Six weeks are necessary for the adminis
tration of the above Swinish Tonic, prescribed by the Nautical Doctors
— How the young Gentlemen manage to kill Time — Their Functions as
Time-killers being performed in the most artistic manner.
After having been some time in Rio, I was informed one
morning that an American steamer, the ¦  , from New York,
bound to San Francisco, had been telegraphed outside the
port. The news caused great excitement among the Ameri
cans, bets having been freely made that she would never reach
Rio, being, as all old salts affirmed, utterly unseaworthy, having
been built, originally, to run on Long Island Sound, and they
3 *

50 AH, THOSE YANKEES!
consequently argued that she was unfit for ocean navigation —
indeed, as she steamed up to her anchorage, even to a lands
man's eye, it seemed like tempting Providence to send forth
such an " edifice " upon such a voyage. Notwithstanding the
prognostications of wise-acres, however, she came in in fine
style and in good condition. Strange enough it seemed to see,
quietly floating in a port thousands of miles distant from
Yankee land, one of our own far-famed river steamboats,
looking as saucy as if alongside her pier at the North River,
just ready for a start for Boston. The natives were astounded
and delighted, and I can see them now as they sat and clapped
their "hands, as the lofty working-beam see-sawed on its axis ;
remarking on her huge length, her double-tier of saloons, and
her light and fragile appearance, invariably winding up by
ejaculating, " Ah, those Yankees, what energy and genius they
show in everything they undertake !"
Impatient of the slow progress of a sailing vessel, I, with the
approbation of my " company," took passage in this steamer
for San Francisco, hoping to arrive there some months sooner
than I otherwise would do by remaining in the barque. Many
of my friends endeavored to dissuade me from going in the
steamer, sneering at her sea-going qualities, and pronouncing
me a madman in thus throwing life away. I had, however,
no apprehensions on the score of personal safety, being some
what of a fatalist in faith, firmly convinced that my life was in
the hands of Him who would only take it at his own good
pleasure ; so, notwithstanding the remonstrances of friends and
the croakings of many an old shell-back, who denounced the
vessel as a "coffin," and by other contemptuous epithets com
mon in nautical parlance, on one of the last days of April I

AT SEA IN A STEAMBOAT. 51
bade adieu to my friends, many of whom, shaking their heads
lugubriously, insisted upon it that they would never see me
again. Rendering myself on board just as the anchor was aweigh, I
had barely time to arrange some little affairs below, when the
wheels commenced revolving, and I hastened on deck to take a
parting glance.
Rapidly steaming along, we were soon clear of the shipping,
and half an hour brought us to the mouth of the harbor,
through which, aided by a strong current, we swiftly shot, and
were once more on the heaving bosom of the Atlantic.
Gradually the land became indistinct, and before the sun went
below the horizon, the Sugar-loaf only appeared in the dim
distance. In the hurry of embarkation, I had not had time to inspect
my new home. The steamer, as I have already mentioned, was
formerly a passenger boat on Long Island Sound, and although of
a stout hull, in nowise suitable for ocean navigation. Although
her guards had been sponsoned in order that, when rolling
heavily, she might not start her projecting decks, and although
several very politic alterations had been made under the eye
of her experienced captain, still her immense height out of
water, and the amount of surface which she would present to a
gale of wind argued very unfavorably to her safety. Her
extreme length (280 feet) was also against her, from the fact
that she was not sufficiently braced to withstand the strain of
long and heavy seas. No material alteration had been made
in her upper works ; the saloon on her main-deck, and the long
saloon on her upper or promenade-deck running almost fore and
aft the ship, being suffered to remain, two light masts had been

52 MY MISGIVINGS CONFIRMED.
stepped fore and aft, rigged with jib, fore and main-sails, and
square-sail to steady her in a beam sea. The cabin furniture
remained intact, and as may be imagined, I was luxuriously
accommodated, my spacious room with its elegant hangings, etc.,
contrasting very favorably with the little den I had left aboard
the barque. I was the only passenger on board, although
there were several gentlemen connected with the enterprise
going out in the vessel ; the captain and mate, who were pro
minent men in our navy, were not only gentlemen, but men of
considerable scientific attainments, thus forming a very plea
sant little coterie, and many a jovial hour have I passed in their
company. In spite however of my luxurious accommodations
and pleasant society, I must acknowledge I did not feel quite
at my ease regarding the staunchness of the vessel, and while
watching the falling barometer and the sharp lightnings along
the western horizon, I began to think of the forebodings of my
friends and turned into my bunk with a very unpleasant feeling
of insecurity. Sometime about the morning watch I was
awakened by a series of violent shocks and by the roaring of
a gale, when hastily jumping from my berth, I found that I
could with difficulty keep my feet, from the unusual and pecu
liar motion of the vessel. On reaching the deck, I found the
wind blowing a hurricane, the sea running wild and high, and
that we, being in its trough, were consequently rolling heavily,
and at every roll the ship would fetch up with her guards
against a sea with a violence that would make everything qui
ver again. These shocks of course followed each other in
rapid succession, producing a thundering, crashing sound with
each concussion, which added to the din of the gale, and the
strains of the laboring engine were most deafening and bewilder-

THINGS LOOK SQUALLY. 53
ing. As the day advanced, the gale increased in violence, the
ship working heavily, and evidently making very bad weather
of it ; as- night set in, things began to look squally, the wood
work had started in many places, the heavy hog-frames had
given a foot or more, and the pools of water in the gangways,
amidships, forced upon us the unwilling conviction that she was
badly hogged, and might at any moment, under the heavy
pressure of the machinery and weight of the coal, settle and
go down !
Thus closed the evening of our second day, a violent Pam
pero blowing, a falling mercury, and a half wrecked steamboat
in which to put our trust in ! Little was said regarding our
situation, no one allowing the other to imagine that he was in
the least anxious as to the result, and indeed few who could
have seen us assembled in the cabin quietly puffing our cigars,
would have dreamed that there was not one of that group who
really believed that the ship beneath him would ride out in
safety the gale then blowing. The majority were men who
had knocked about the world a good deal, and who either had
learned to suppress their feelings, or with a positive indifference
to results, to let things take their course. At about eight
o'clock in the evening I went on deck, and never have I beheld
so wild a sky, a fiercer gale or a more tremendous sea. Squall
followed squall with terrific force, sea after sea roared and
foamed and dashed madly by, each shock quivering our devoted
ship from keel to truck ; the whole face of the mighty deep
was in a vast chaos of wild confusion, rendered wilder still by
the phosphorescent glare of the breaking seas and the lurid
lightnings which incessantly played about us. The ship
pitched and rolled and labored most distressingly, while the

54 I AM WORTH TWO DEAD MEN.
engine, although performing to admiration, with difficulty made
its revolutions ; altogether the prospect for the night was most,
gloomy, so much so that I made up my mind that unless the
gale subsided at an early hour, there would be but little hope
of our living through it — I turned in. My own feelings can
better be imagined than described.
A sense of utter despondency pervaded me ; on the threshold
of life was I to be permitted only thus briefly to gaze through its
half open portals ? Were all my bright hopes for the future,
my ardent anticipations of honors and happiness thus suddenly
to be blasted ? These and a thousand other thoughts as appall
ing rapidly suggested themselves to my imagination and pro
duced a state of mind anything but agreeable; nature however
soon came to the rescue, and although firmly convinced that
the chances were strongly in favor of awakening in another
world, I closed my eyes and was quickly in dreamland. Shortly
before day, the gale broke, and when I went on deck I found it
had almost wholly abated. The vessel was a wreck, started at
every point, it seemed almost miraculous that she had withstood
the violence of the gale : a consultation was held, and it was
, unanimously resolved to put into St. Catharines and refit.
The appearance of the Island of St. Catharines to one
approaching from the northward is striking, the huge conical
rocks rising abruptly from the sea, and the clustering islands,
green as emeralds, against the dark and frowning mountains on
the main, produce a very fine effect. Passing through the
little archipelago we arrived at the ¦ entrance of the narrow
straits dividing the island from the mainland ; here is situated
the fortress of Santa-Cruz, and here the larger class of vessels
anchor, on account of there not being water sufficient for them

A MODEL CONSUL. 55
to get to the inner harbor. After having been boarded by
officials from the port, who gave us the requisite permission, we
steamed away for the city. Shooting from under the shore of
the mainland came a six-oared whale boat, pulled by negroes.
In a moment she was alongside, and from the stern sheets a
burly sailor-looking man jumped aboard noisily announcing
himself in a breath, as a pilot and as our countryman. The
said captain is quite a notable in his way; the proprietor of a
small plantation at the mouth of the harbor, by his Yankee
energy and knowledge of the world, he has gained a great
ascendency over the simple people among whom he lives, and in
matters nautical is the oracle of the province. He holds the
responsible position of pilot, and at that time was agent of the
American Consul to transact the business of vessels who could
not get up to the town. Report goes that some twenty years
ago he was master of a whale ship, when happening in at St.
Catharines and becoming enamored of its quiet seclusion and
natural beauties, but more particularly of one of its dark-eyed
daughters, he sold his ship and with the proceeds (which he
forgot to remit to the owners) bought his little place. Whe
ther the story be true or false I know not, but I do know that
he has since been the accredited Consul of the United States of
America to the Island of St. Catharines, a glorious representa
tive of the first maritime nation in the world.
An hour's steaming through a narrow channel, winding
among lofty hills and islets, covered with luxuriant vegetation,
brought us up with the inner harbor, formed merely by a
contraction of the channel opposite the town, after passing
which, it again widens, giving egress to the sea by the southern
end of the island ; thus vessels arriving from the northward,

56 P R E T T Y G I R L S .
bound south, enter through the northern passage and sail out
by the southern. Our anchor was scarcely down before we
were surrounded by a flotilla of boats, and the beach was
lined with people looking with wonder upon the Yankee
steamer ; never before had their eyes opened upon such a struc
ture, and young and old, sailors and landsmen, gazed with
undisguised amazement upon this "marine anomaly." No
sooner had the formalities of the Custom House been gone
through with, than the vessel was inundated with visitors who
were impatient to inspect her, and for an hour or two we were
completely taken by storm ; of pretty girls there were a large
proportion on board, who, after satisfying their curiosity
regarding the vessel, improvised a waltz in the saloons. We of
course being too gallant to allow them, to dance alone, soon
joined them, and were quickly upon the- most friendly terms
with the whole party. After amusing themselves for an hour
or so in this way, they invited us to accompany them on shore
and finish our first evening with an impromptu ball. Thinking
the opportunity a good one, some four or five of us idlers
accepted, glad of a chance of making an entrde into St.
Catharines " society ;" so jumping into one of the boats and
wedging ourselves in among the girls, we pulled gaily for the
shore. On reaching the beach we each gallantly caught our
neighbor around her waist and bore her out of reach of the
surf. The party safely landed, we accompanied our newly-made
friends to one of their residences which had been designated
for the occasion.
My first impressions of the town were most favorable. Hav
ing landed at the foot of the public square, we passed through
its entire length in order to gain our destination in the suburbs ;

A HOP ASHORE. 57
the church, occupying the upper side, flanked ou the one side by
the president's palace and on the other by public buildings, all
standing in bold relief, their outlines well defined in the bright
moonlight, gave the Plaza an imposing .appearance ; taking ad
vantage of the beautiful night, hundreds were strolling about the
Plaza, while music softly stole through many an open casement.
Arriving at a pretty little country house in the midst of gar
dens, where the perfumes of flowers as they floated in the even
ing air were most overpowering, we were ushered in by our
kind friends. After resting and partaking of their hospitality,
in the shape of luscious fruits and conserves of the country, we
resumed our dancing, which we kept up to a late hour, having
been, meanwhile, joined by large accessions of the beaux and
belles of the town. The young ladies were, without exception,
lively and companionable, graceful, and of pleasing appearance,
while some of them were exceedingly pretty. At a late hour
we bade adieu to our kind entertainers, and with promises of
soon repeating our visit, made our way to the ship, much grati
fied with our first experience in St. Catharines.
A survey of the steamer having been made, she was found
to have sustained some very serious damage, and that repairs
requiring a month's time to accomplish, would be necessary to
put her in a fit condition to proceed on her voyage. This was
anything but pleasant news to me, who was so anxious to get
to California, and in spite of all perspective pleasures incident
to a month's residence among the hospitable inhabitants of this
island, I must confess that I received the report in a most re
bellious way, but as ill-humor could be of no avail, I came to
the conclusion to make the best of it.
The curiosity concerning our steamer continued unabated,

58 MINEHOST.
and day after day, from morning till night, she was thronged
with visitors ; people came from far and near, and many a
party from the interior made a pilgrimage to the bay for no
other purpose than to gratify their curiosity respecting her.
Among so many people, it would have been strange not to
have made some pleasant acquaintances, and many a hospitable
invitation we received to visit our friends at their homes ; avail
ing ourselves of these privileges, we had ample means of passing
our time pleasantly, and of observing the peculiar customs of
the country.
In view of our anticipated temporary residence, those of us
who were not attached to the vessel, or took no part in her ex
ecutive doty, proceeded at once to establish our headquarters at
the " Hotel do Vapor," as snug a little hostelrie as is to be
found on the South American continent, and kept by one Ha-
mel, an American, who had resided many years in the coun
try, and who was married to a native ; he was as jovial and
liberal a landlord as could be met with anywhere.
The only guests of the establishment, we took formal posses
sion, and made ourselves perfectly at home, being honorably
attended in our head waitress, who, though a slave, was a prin
cess in her own right, and daughter of the King Cabenda ; she
always appeared perfectly conscious of her noble birth, and
was extremely dignified in all her movements. Our male at
tendant was one of the brightest, most knowing negroes I ever
saw, the very life and factotum of the establishment ; he was
hideously ugly, and hunchback in the bargain, but notwith
standing his personal defects, was a most valuable and enter
taining servant ; he rejoiced in the name of Chico, and the
name Chico, Chico, Chico, used to echo through the house morn

PRETTY VILLAS. 59
ing, noon and night, and its ubiquitous owner was always
ready to respond to its call.
I was as favorably impressed with the appearauce of the
town by daylight as I had previously been by moonlight. Its
large square, carpeted with bright green turf, pleasantly con
trasted with the dazzling whiteness of the buildings around it ;
the streets running irregularly over hill and dale, lined with
dwellings generally surrounded with gardens, tastefully planted
with flowers and fruit trees, formed a rurally picturesque scene.
The little villas in the suburbs were perfect gems of rural
beauty ; half hidden among plantations of the orange, the
mango, and the fig, they were most delightful retreats from the
heat of the tropical sun. Here, each afternoon on returning
from our ride, we would drop in upon some one of our suburban
friends, who, delighted to see us, would always insist upon our
passing the evening, and upon our acceding, would gather to
gether from the neighborhood all the young people to assist in
entertaining us. Thus day followed day in rapid succession,
when so far from feeling ennui we were continually enjoying
ourselves, and in this way managed to get through very plea
santly the three weeks which, in perspective, had appeared so
interminable. By the aid of an old French billiard-table, we
managed to kill the morning hours, while the afternoon and
evening, as I have said before, were devoted to visiting and ex
cursions into the country. /
During our stay we made frequent journeys into the interior
of the island, and were always charmed by the beauty and lux-
uriousness of the vegetable kingdom. The air was loaded with
almost overpowering perfumes, and musical with the songs of
hundreds of birds, whose gay plumage seemed like the tran-

60 , F A R I N A .
sient hues of the prism as they shot across the dark green back
ground of the forest. Trellis-work of vines and parasites,
winding and twining around the giant forms of the forest,
loaded with flowers of the richest odor and brightest hue,
formed natural avenues through which we passed unconscious
of a meridian sun, save when some opening permitted its fierce
rays to penetrate. Here and there we would stumble upon a
secluded plantation, hidden by abanana orchard and hedged
by coffee plants, through which unceremoniously forcing our
horses, we would invariably be greeted with kind welcomes
from the proprietor. We frequently partook of the welcome
of these Brazilian farmers, who, although their table appoint
ments were not of the most approved pattern, made up for it
by the luxuriance of the fare. Farina is the staff of life with
them, ground from the mandioca root, and is made up by the
native cooks into an infinite variety of dishes, all of which are
exceedingly palatable. The mandioca grows all over tropical
Brazil, to the height of from four to five feet, attaining matu
rity twenty months after planting ; the root produces the fa
rina, and resembles a carrot ; they are first scraped, and then
grated and reduced to a pulp, the juices antl water pressed out,
and are then powdered and put into an iron pan with a fire
beneath, and dried, and are then fit for use.
The banana enters largely into the diet of the planter, and
is eaten either raw or cooked. As is the case in most tropical
countries, the very luxuriousness of the vegetation is the great
est obstacle to its advancement ; for its inhabitants, raising
without effort sufficient quantities of food to maintain them
selves, do not care to exert themselves for the improvement of
their condition.

CHAPTER IV.
STRAITS OF MAGELLAN.
Author leaves St. Catharines and his Sweethearts behind him — Is once
more upon old Ocean — Is dubious as to the Staunchness of his Convey
ance — Enters the Straits of Magellan — Arrives at Port Famine — Finds
no Coal — Does the necessary amount of Swearing, and then becomes
resigned — He proceeds to cut Wood for Fuel, with Sailors for Axemen
— It begins to Snow, and Snows for thirty Days and thirty Nights,
without cessation — Makes Shooting Excursions into unexplored Bays,
and slaughters unsuspicious Fowl — Becomes superstitious, sees the
Devil, and hears him howl — Experiences Spasmodic Sensations
thereat, which are calmed on the idea suggesting itself, that it was
only a Sea Lion — He enters the Pacific, and describes his Impressions
in strains Poetic — He arrives at Valparaiso — Describes it — Dines with
the Consul, and experiences his first Earthquake while at Table —
Insecurity of the Harbor — Terrible Gales and Wrecks — We once more
Steam along the Coast, remarking upon the Ports of Copiapo, Co-
quimbo, Iquique, Islay, Arica, and Pisca — Arrive at the Chincha
Islands — Theory relating to the Accumulation of Guano — Balls on
Shipboard — We touch at Cafiete — Are spilt in the Surf.
Our repairs being completed, and the steamer announced
once more to be in a seaworthy condition, (the veracity of
which statement being deemed most questionable by the
writer), we bade adieu to our kind friends, and on the third
day of June, passed under a full head of steam through the
southern passage, between the island and the main, and in a
61

62 SOUTH ATLANTIC.
short time we were again floating on the Atlantic, heading up
for Cape Virgin, at the entrance of the Straits of Magellan.
As may be imagined, my previous experience did not tend to
reassure me respecting the safety of our vessel, and I must
confess myself to have been rather nervous, as to the extent
of her ability to resist the gales and heavy seas, which we must
almost as a certainty encounter off the mouth of the Rio de la
Plata, and the south coast of Patagonia. The captain very
prudently determined to hug the coast pretty closely, thus in a
measure avoiding the heaviest of the sea, and in the event of
a mishap, rendering the chance of making a port more secure.
Fortune, however, was* with us, and it seemed as if Provi
dence had taken us under his special protection, for although,
for ten days we were passing through the stormiest part of the
South Atlantic, the sea was calm and quiet, and we glided on
ward with ease and safety, at the end of each day congratulating
ourselves that we had accomplished thus much of the distance
without disaster, and hoping for fair weather on the morrow.
While at St. Catharines, the weather had been very warm,
but as we got a little more to the southward, we began to feel
the cold very sensibly, and heavy woollen clothing took the
place of the light summer rig, in which we had been lately
accoutred. When off the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, hun
dreds of Cape pigeons made their appearance, following in our
wake, and never leaving us again for several months ; these
little birds are a species of gull, abounding in the South Seas,
and are the very counterpart of our domestic pigeon, both
in color and size, and afforded us endless amusement in
their graceful circling and wheeling, and diving, as they strove
with each other for the bite of refuse from the kitchen Out

ALBATROSS. 63
of curiosity we caught several, and on close inspection they
still maintain their similarity to the domestic bird, but are web-
footed, and have a differently shaped bill ; after being brought
on board, they immediately became very sick, throwing up
freely, and are otherwise disagreeable from being overun with
vermin. There, too, we made our first acquaintance with the
albatross ; at first sight I was disappointed, expecting to see a
much larger bird, but as they became less shy, and ventured
nearer to us, I was astonished at their dimensions, and
charmed with their graceful gyrations ; or as unconsciously they,
with heads beneath their wing, slept peacefully upon the bil
low; or, rising with the gale, they madlyfwheeled and shrieked,
as if glorying in the elemental strife. Hundreds of miles away
from land, when the gale is at its highest, when with difficulty
the eye can pierce the atmosphere, thick with driving sleet
and foam, suddenly through the contending elements his shrill
cry is heard above the storm, and he darts quickly by ; then
circling about, he hovers around, now skirting over the break
ing seas, and through their crests ; then settling down on the
bosom of some huge wave, he peacefully and gracefully sinks
to rest, all unconscious of the fierce tumult raging about
him. On the evening of the 12th of June, our reckoning showed
us to be off the mouth of the Straits of Magellan, and we
thank heaven for it, for with this nondescript, rickety old affair
of a ship, it would be no joke to be caught in one of those
Cape Horn snorters, which blow pretty much all the year
round in these latitudes. We had bidden adieu to the tropics
with a vengeance, for the weather had become horribly cold,
the thermometer standing at an average of 35° Fahrenheit,

64 SOLOMON GILLS.
aud the raw, piercing southerly winds, made our teeth chatter,
so sudden was the change. The days, too, had become very
short, and the long evenings of winter were upon us ; however,
all this was no great drawback to our comfort, for our Astral
lamp once lighted, our great stove red and glowing, the brass
teakettle on its top hissing merrily, the whist party made up,
and each member of the little circle flanked by a smoking glass
of punch, Miss Puss dozing in the corner on the mat, and old
Solomon Gills, our venerable monkey, arrayed in a red flannel
coat, and duck breeches, snoozing in the coal scuttle, we pre
sented about as true a picture of marine comfort, as one would
be likely to gaze upon on ship-board in the South Seas.
The breaking day of June 13th, 1849, discovered to us Cape
Virgin, the northern headland of the eastern entrance to the
Straits of Magellan, their width here being so very great that
the southern extremity was not visible.
Steaming rapidly along with a favoring tide, we observed
the land to rise perpendicularly from the water to the height
of fifty feet, generally level, though occasionally broken by
undulating hills. As the day advances, the land on the port
hand (Terra del Fuego) comes into view, and we quickly find
ourselves between lofty palisades, the distance between either
side rapidly lessening, till at mid-day we reached the first nar
rows ; here the width between shore and shore was but three
miles, and the mighty current rushed through with great
violence, the water boiling, foaming .and roaring terrifically.
Through them we shot, and now again we find ourselves in a
broad sound, say five miles wide, on either hand tall palisades,
the land stretching away in vast plains, covered with innumer
able herds of lama and ostriches feeding, who, as we shriek our

STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 65
steam-whistle, fly off like the wind. Attracted by the sound,
a band of the far-famed Patagonian Indians, on horseback,
make their appearance, and as they stand, statue-like, on the
brink of that high eminence, with the clear blue sky for &
background, all the marvellous stories of their gigantic stature
seem to be verified, for colossal, indeed, seemed their stature.
Onward we sped ; as we progress, the shores becoming moun
tainous and barren-looking, more particularly those of Terra
del Fuego, the straits now narrowing, now widening, though
the average distance from shore to shore would seem to be
from six to ten miles, the tides running strong and tumultuously
though with great regularity. Somewhere about midnight we
reached Port Famine, one hundred and fifty miles within the
Straits, and letting go our anchors, awaited daylight to reveal
its beauties.
Going on deck the next morning, my attention was attracted
by a roaring noise which fairly drowned our voices, when,
looking across the strait, its whole surface seemed in tumultuous
confusion, the waters tumbling and foaming as if shot from a
cascade, reminding me more than anything else of the rapids
at the falls of Niagara ; all this was caused by the flooding
tide met by an opposing wind.
Turning our attention shoreward, we beheld a high, steep
bank, ice-covered and rocky, perched on the top of which were
a dozen or so of rickety, smoke-stained wooden houses, com
posing the city of Port Famine. This settlement was formed
in this remote, God-forsaken locality, for penal purposes by the
Chilian government, whither all her criminals are transported,
and well it deserves its name, for beyond a little dried venison
and pork and a few stinted potatoes, naught else was there to

66 N 0 C 0 A L .
eat, and the inhabitants, as may be supposed, were of the most
villainous description, and their appearance, wrapped in their
greasy ponchos, with their slouched, chimney-pot hats, was
most repulsive. Their governor, likewise a criminal, was, how
ever, a man of a different stamp, polished and well educated,
he lived among his books, a broken-hearted man ; scarce
twenty-five, in an hour of temptation, he had yielded, and was
now expiating his crime — poor fellow, he was afterwards mur
dered by his ungovernable subjects.
On leaving Rio, we had been informed that on our arrival at
Port Famine, we would find a deposit of " native coal," which
would be all-sufficient to enable us to reach Valparaiso ; what
was our consternation, then, to hear that not one pound of coal
was to be had in all that region ! We were dumbfounded,
and stared at each other in stupid surprise. We were, indeed,
in a pretty predicament — midway in the Straits of Magellan,
a thousand miles away from civilization, and not more than a
few hours' fuel to enable us to reach there I Mid-winter, too,
in this high latitude, the day scarce four hours long, and
incessant snows in prospect I
What was to be done ? An only remedy ! and that was,
to cut wood enough to carry us to some place where coal
could be got. On going into a calculation, it was found that
five days' steaming would be necessary to reach St. Carlos, the
nearest inhabited point. Now, furthermore, it was ascertained
that we had not one day's fuel, and that the steamer would
consume at least twenty-five cords of wood per day, and that,
with our men all green as to the use of the axe, at least a
fortnight would be required to cut one day's consumption ; at
which rate, our stay in this delectable region would be, instead

CUTTING WOOD. 67
of some two or three, of at least sixty days duration 1 This
was delightful news indeed — it could not be — we would not
believe it — then we swore at, and abused one another — then
we got sullen and wouldn't swear — and then — we lit our pipes,
and resolved to make the best of it. Heaving up our anchor,
and shrieking back through our steam-whistle a parting curse
at Port Famine, we moved off to a locality where there was
more wood and fewer villains.
Arriving at Bougainville Bay — a little nook scarce large
enough to hold us, with a little islet at its mouth for a
shelter — we proceeded to take possession, and moored our
selves for a permanent residence. We then proceeded to
inspect our ground for wood-cutting. We found it on a moun
tain side, almost precipitous, the trees extremely wet and filled
with sap, and most difficult to be got at, so that, with our
green axe-men, our spirits were not very much exhilarated at
Our discovery. However, we got all ready, hauled the ship in
close to the bank, ground our axes, and turned in to refresh
ourselves for next day's performances.
June lhth. — After a night of fierce gales and driving squalls,
the day breaks at about nine o'clock, and going on deck, we
find a blinding snow storm raging without, with about a foot
of snow already on the ground. All hands on shore to clear it
away ; no wood-cutting to-day ; dark at 4, p.m. ; stoves mer
rily burning ; punch-bowl full and simmering, and whist-party
formed. June 16th. — Wood-cutting progressing slowly; men unac
customed to the work ; awkward, and easily tire.
17$, 18th, and 19th.— Snow, snow, snow — blow, blow,
blow — all darkness — men worn out with cutting wood — work
progressing slowly.

68 WE SPY A WRECK.
21st. — Men wounded by a falling tree — snow getting very
deep, and cold intense.
22d, Hid, Hith, 25th, and 26tA. — Snow, snow— squall follow
ing squall — atmosphere so thick, nothing can be seen a hundred
feet from the ship.
21th. — To-day, thank God, we leave this miserable, inhos
pitable hole, and off we strike into the broad strait again.
From ten to fifteen miles in width, lofty mountains rise on
either side, robed in snow, cold and dreary. Slowly we pro
gress, the wet, green wood burning miserably bad ; all day we
puff and blow against rushing tides and driving snow sqnalls —
now through open sounds, then through crooked reaches.
Coasting along the shore of Terra del Fuego, a native canoe,
filled with those disgusting cannibals, the natives, struck out
for us, and we passed near enough to them, as, affrighted, they
paddled away for dear life, to distinguish the features of their
brutish countenances, less intelligent than that of the African
baboon, though closely resembling it in its tout-ensemble of hair
and wrinkle. At twilight we anchored in an inhospitable little
nook, whose sides were glaciers and whose basin a frozen lake,
and were serenaded the livelong night with the bellowings of
the sea-cow and the barkings of the otter.
USth. — Again weigh anchor, and find ourselves again puffing
along ; to-day the weather is more serene, and we experience
but little current ; the features of the land we find the same,
bold, mountainous, and snow-covered. Suddenly our attention
is attracted towards a little island, close in shore, four or five
miles distant. Seizing a glass, we spy upon a tree an Amer
ican flag — union down — a signal of distress. Steering in,
and approaching nearer, we spy a wreck, high and dry, tents
erected, and men moving about ; presently a boat comes danc-

ALL ABOUT T UK STRAITS. 69
ing over the water, and a man springs upon our deck, an
nouncing himself master of the schooner John A. Sutter, gone
ashore in a snow-squall, with crew of thirty men, and bound
to California, and reports brig Acadian, of Boston, laying
alongside rendering him assistance.
We regret we cannot accommodate him, and show him over
the side, leaving^ him to the tender mercies of the Acadian,
" and go on our way rejoicing." In the distance we spy Cape
Tamar, a mountain promontory, guarding the western entrance
to the straits, and beyond it the stormy ocean. But in our sit
uation it would never do to trust to old Ocean, bad enough when
we have good fuel and plenty of it ; but now it would be mad
ness, and we must fain trust to the intricate navigation through
the passages which divide Patagonia from the archipelago of
islands, which stud its coast, reaching fairly up to Chili ; this
is venturesome, but it is our only course ; to go outside would be
the height of recklessness — besides, we must cut wood as we
go along.
Before leaving the straits, it would be as well to remark
some of their peculiarities, of wind, tide and current, and of
their adaptation to navigation. The distance from their east
ern to their western extremity, is about 250 miles, with an aver
age width of about nine miles. The shores are mountainous,
running abruptly up from the water; consequently, close along
side of them is oftentimes a depth of two fathoms or more,
and the whole coast on either side is indented with little
coves, with good anchorage, affording excellent harbors. The
tides, until you get some twenty or thirty miles from tlie west
ern end, run with great regularity, although very strong ;
wherever the straits' narrow, there the tides become furious

70 IMPROVING.
and rush along with overwhelming impetuosity. The old idea
that the Pacific was higher than the Atlantic, and that conse
quently an irresistible current always rushed through the
straits from the westward, has long since been exploded,
although, near the western extremity, there is always a slight
current setting easterly, caused by the constant westerly winds
which continually blow. The winds prevail from the westward
and blow at times with frightful violence ; the squalls called
"Willy Waas," are indeed terrific. To a well-manned ship
there would be no insuperable difficulties in her going through
either from east to west, or to the contrary. Fore and aft
Vessels should always go through, and in an easy working ves
sel, I deem the danger less from going to the westward
through the straits than in going round Cape Horn. Bidding
adieu to the Straits of Magellan, and heading northerly, we
enter Smith's Channel, and as night sets in we anchor in a lovely
little nook, without a name, snow hills runinng away up to
heaven, and the trees which we so covet, half buried in the drifts.
July 2d. — Here we are once more busily engaged in cutting
down trees ; Jack is becoming very expert, and goes at it con
amore ; once in a while his axe glances, and slices off a piece
nf his neighbor's calf, but our doctor is wonderful at cures.
One thing a man has to look out for here*, which may seem
very comical, but which might result very seriously, and that
is, not to get suffocated in a snow drift ; in many places these
drifts are from 30 to 40 feet deep, and arching over small
brooks, are by no means compact or solid, easily letting a man
through. One or two of our fellows walking unconcernedly
along, found themselves clean out of sight, and were only
recovered on being missed.

I SEE THE DEVIL. 71
These northern channels being out of the white man's path,
and their waters never disturbed by a vessel's prow, are filled
with water-fowl of every description, and many a fine day's
sport I had in hunting them. Jumping into a boat, and hoist
ing the sail, with my ducking gun by my side, I would explore
the thousand httle bays around, and waken with my gun, echoes
never before thus given back. Hundreds of black duck, teal,
and snipe of various kinds fed among the kelp which lined the
shores, while flocks of grey geese and brant, soared within
gunshot, and hair and dog-seal poked their ugly noses within
oar's length of the boat, and sea-cows and sea-elephants rolled
their huge forms from off high rocks, with tremendous splashes
into the sea. Some of these seals are most enormous, weigh
ing as much as a good fat ox ; they live together in numbers,
in caverns, called by sealers, rookeries, and are entered by
them armed only with clubs, without regard to fear ; the only
danger is in getting between the seal and the water, which
they make for as soon as attacked; in which case, one is liable
to get knocked down and crushed.
On one occasion I was scared almost to death by one, and
it was the first I ever saw. Having been off in my boat some
ten miles from the ship, night overtook me, and although it
was moonlight, still a gale was brewing, and the wind swept
along in heavy, fitful gusts. Reefing down my sail, and
crouching low to avoid the cold blasts, and watching with
great anxiety the dark clouds driving over the face of the
moon — I was in a nervous and excited mood — when directly
before me, the most hideously frightful-looking object I had ever
beheld rose out of the water, and from its mouth sent forth
a yell, as if from ten thousand demons, and then disappeared ;

72 CANNIBALS.
As for me, I thought it was the devil, and over I went, head-
over-heels into the bottom of the boat; fright had exaggerated
both size and sound. Recovering myself in a moment, I
ordered the wilKng men to shake out the reef in spite of the
wind, thinking it better to capsize and be drowned, than living
to be carried off by Satan.
The characteristics of this channel are the same as those of
the straits — lofty, broken mountains, and innumerable islands,
all snow-covered to the depth of 20 or 30 feet ; we have seen
too, many beautiful glaciers, strikingly splendid, as the bright
sun shines upon them, while the mers-du-glace stretch away like
polished mirrors.
July ith. — Snowing, cold and dreary, a blue day for us ; we
consoled ourselves with a game dinner, drank patriotic toasts,
and wound up of course in getting gloriously tight, all of us,
fore and aft the ship ; Jack's allowance being most liberal,
grog flowed about forward, and stag-dances were the order of
the day.
Slowly progressing to the northward, the weather becomes
more moderate, and incessant rains take the place of snow
storms, and the islands and hill sides, doffing their white coats,
appear in jockey green, the trees put forth their buds, and
during our stationary periods we wander away into the woods,
and occasionally bring home a saddle of venison.
Of the Indians and their arrows we are exceeding shy, as
the former are of us, but we often catch sight of their filthy
forms only partly covered with skins, and their small piercing
eyes peering cannibalistically at us, so that our fat friends all
shudder and instinctively cock their pieces. Their abodes,
usually located on a promontory, a,re nothing more than an

CANOE INDIANS. 73
immense wicker basket in the form of a bee-hive made of osiers,
the inside filled with dry grass and the outside a mass of dry
bones, oyster-shells, etc. etc, the filth both inside and out dis
gusting in the extreme. These tribes Kve in boats the greater
part of the year, and are consequently called " canoe Indians,"
their only cooking utensil a stone pot, boiled by hot stones
thrown in ; their food, oysters, muscles, and fish ; their dress,
when they wear any is of seal skin, a kind of mantle.
After weeks and weeks of rain and hurricane, to our great
joy, we reached the island of Chiloe, at the southern extremity
of the RepubKc of ChiK, and passing between it and the main.
land and driven by a fierce current, . on the 8th of August,
fifty-three days after leaving the Atlantic, we entered the har"
bor of San Carlos.
Our arrival caused the greatest excitement, ours being the
first steamer that had ever disturbed the waters of this remote
bay. Jumping into our boat, we puUed away shoreward, and
on reaching the mole found the whole population, some thou
sands, waiting to receive us ; on landing we were surrounded
on aU sides, and the people gazed upon us very much as they
would upon a tame elephant at home ; submitting for a while
to their scrutiny, we at last, by unequivocal signs of fight, got
rid of as ugly a mob of scoundrels as I ever saw collected
together. Arrayed in the dark, greasy, viUainous-looking
ponchos peculiar to the country and the chimney-potted hat
pulled down over the eyes, they were as unamiable looking a set
of cut throats as I ever saw: few wear shoes, and aU appear to
be in the most abject poverty. The appearance of the town
was as squahd as that of its inhabitants ; built entirely of the
red-wood of the country, without paint, it seemed gloomy, dark
4

74 ST. CARLOS.
and uninviting. The women are coarse and ugly, and wear no
hats; they wear rough shawls, with hair plaited down their
backs. The whole population redolent of grease and garlic.
The commerce between this port and Valparaiso is quite
important, consisting of large quantities of wheat and other
grain, and of various kinds of valuable lumber.
Even in this out of the way place we found a Yankee and a
Frenchman, the one a farmer and saw-mill proprietor, and the
other of course a barber. The harbor is fine and capacious,
with some good sheltered anchorage, but the entrance is
exceedingly dangerous, which deters ship-owners from sending
their vessels there. Provisions we found exceedingly cheap —
magnificent potatoes two rials per bushel, fowls one rial per
pair, sheep a dollar, etc.
Having obtained a sufficient supply of fuel, on the 15th of
August we steamed out of the harbor, and in short time were
floating on the bosom of the Pacific. Leaving far behind us.
the fierce gales and mountain billows of Cape Horn, onward
we sped, merrily dancing o'er the laughing wavelets of the
blue Pacific. Away, away in the dim distance, far, far above
the misty clouds, the spectral peaks of the mighty Andes
chain, in their eternal robe of ice and snow, dazzling and
bright, stand forth against the azure sky, a noble landmark
to the uncertain mariner. Onward we dash, each hour bringing
balmier airs and steadier breezes and with them the practical
assurance that at last we had reached that " Paradise of the
sailor," the Pacific.
Aug. 18th. — Lovely indeed is this navigation, In full view
of the Andes, their snow-capped peaks rising high into the
heavens — what can be more sublime than the view now pre-

CHILICOAL. 75
sented to us ? The broad ocean stretching away thousands of
leagues, calm and placid, its bosom only ruffled by the occa
sional break of a ripple anxious to discharge its silvery burden,
and on the other hand, the mighty chain of everlasting hills
seemingly vying with each other which shall nearest approach
the heaven of heavens — low down bristling with an armor of
evergreen, while on high, mantled in celestial white, as if puri
fied by their nearer approach to the realms of bliss.
The first port made after leaving San Carlos is the Bay of
Concepcion, decidedly the finest harbor on the coast. Con-
cepgion is the name of the port itself, while the city, some
ten miles distant, is called " Talcahuano." Numbering some
five or six thousand inhatitants, it is a place of very consider
able trade, and is the rendezvous for all the whalers pursuing
their calling in the South Seas ; this in itself is a very impor
tant branch of trade, and leaves a considerable sum of money
annually there.
Large quantities of wheat and flour are likewise brought
here from the interior, and shipped hence to California, Peru,
and the northern ports of Chili. One feels quite at home on
walking through the streets of Talcahuano, being accosted at
every turn by his own countrymen, while signs in English
tempt him within the many stores. I omitted noticing Val
divia, a small port to the southward of Conception ; the harbor
is, however, difficult of entrance, and its commerce limited to
exports of bituminous coal, which is not very extensively used
on account of its liability to spontaneous combustion ; indeed,
many vessels have been burnt at sea while freighted with it.
Somewhere about one hundred miles to the northward of Tal
cahuano is the town of Constitucion, at the mouth of one of

76 RIOMAULE.
the most important rivers in Chili. Here the Rio Maule, a
stream of immense volume, empties itself into the ocean. After
taking its rise among the eternal snows of the Cordilleras, and
traversing a highly fertilized and extensive region of country,
at first its course is much obstructed with rapids, but still
navigable for flat-boats ; as it approaches the coast, however,
it deepens, and becomes navigable for larger vessels. And
were it not for its wretched entrance, obstructed by dangerous
breakers, Constitution would be a highly important point, as
the products of the line of country through which the river
flows are extremely valuable. Charles Minturn, Esq., of New
York, has the monopoly for navigating the river by steam for
ten years, and several steam-tugs now tow vessels over the bar.
A Peruvian steamer which I commanded was afterwards lost
among the breakers at the entrance to the port.
As day dawned we beheld spread before us the city of Val
paraiso. In the foreground is the harbor, only by courtesy so
called, filled with the ships of every nation ; beyond it, and
running along the beach, is. the principal street, some two miles
in length, compact with well-built houses, prominent among
which are several churches and the handsome Custom House..
Above them, elevated some two hundred feet, and hanging direct
ly over them, is a terrace where are located many neat looking
cottages, flanked by a tasty little church, the former the resi
dences of the foreign merchants, and the latter an English
Chapel, supported by British residents. Rising abruptly above
the southern end of the city are three conical hills, straggling
and broken by volcanic action, and named respectively the
" Fore, Main and Mizzen Tops" — their terraced sides occupied
by sailors, boarding-houses and gambling-hells of the very lowest

VALPARAISO. 77
description. Here Jack retires on the receipt of his wages,
from whence after being stupefied with bad liquor and beaten
and robbed of his money, he is summarily ejected, lucky not to
be sent headlong down some of the steep precipices, as many a
poor devil has been before him. These tops are the very St.
Giles of the coast and the Alsatian retreat for all criminals afrd
desperadoes. A wild young devil of a naval officer, on being
invited on some grand occasion to dine with his admiral " re
gretted that it would not be in his power, as he had already
accepted an invitation from his ' Starboard watch ' to dine
with them at ' Jones ' of the Main top " (one of the most
notorious dens in Valparaiso). High above these hills and ter
races the Cordillera towers away among the clouds. The
harbor is in fact no harbor at all — a mere arm of the sea — the
anchorage very insecure and in the winter season very unsafe ;
a heavy swell roKs in from the sea and breaks into the principal
street, making the landing unpleasant as well as dangerous.
Northers blow very Violently during the winter months and
wrecks are frequent, the sea setting in at those times fright
fully strong.
On the occasion of a subsequent visit, I was laying with my
vessel iu the harbor, when a violent Norther sprung up ; an
enormous sea arose, and ship after ship was swept from its
anchorage down upon others, which likewise gave way and
went ashore on a reef called "Little Cape Horn." All was
confusion, consternation and distress, those on board trusting
only to their anchors and chains for life, while those on shore
could render no assistance. We held on pretty well, although
obliged to cut away our masts, the sea making a clean breach
over us. Presently the "  ," an American schooner,

.78 SHIPWRECK.
as beautiful a piece of marine architecture as ever floated and
the fleetest vessel in the Pacific, started and came driving down.
Passing close to several ships, her crew took advantage of
opportunities to escape and save their lives, but the mate stead
ily refused assistance, having evidently resolved to die with the
vessel. I see him now as the fated craft drove by us dismasted,
he standing calmly on her deck, his hair streaming in the gale,
awaiting his fate. A few fathoms astern of us, a sea struck
her, and over she went, bottom upwards, and in a moment was
dashed to pieces against the reef. Loss of life is frequent in
these gales, and occurs in full view of the inhabitants, who can
lend no earthly assistance.
A law exists here for the prevention of smuggling, forbidding
any shore boat leaving the beach after sunset under a penalty
of $25. One night a heavy norther sprung up, a ship came
driving ashore and a living man was seen on the wreck through
the moon's pale rays. An American lieutenant prevailed upon
some boatmen to risk their lives with him through the boiling
surf ; after almost superhuman efforts they gain the wreck and
triumphantly bring the man ashore ; they are immediately
arrested and forced to pay the penalty for leaving the beach
after sunset, but in the morning the lieutenant was presented
by the town with an elegant sword in token of his intrepidity.
Valparaiso is essentially a foreign city, its commerce being
in the hands of English, French, and Germans, while over the
shop doors signs in every idiom, except the Spanish, give un
equivocal proof of the foreign element. With a liberal govern
ment, firmly established — the only successful one of all the
South American " experiments " — they offer great encourage
ment to foreign immigration, and make liberal allowance for

EDUCATION. 79
national peculiarities ; toleration is the order of the day, and the
absurdly restrictive policy of the other Spanish states has been
superseded by the most politic commercial regulations. Even
the Protestant faith is looked upon with no unfavorable eye,
and one of the most prominent objects on entering the harbor is
the pretty little English church, perched high over the town,
while each religious procession (Catholic), as it goes chanting
through the town, may hear Watts' psalms as they are wafted
upward by the voices of a hundred worshippers from the Pres
byterian Chapel, near the Custom House.
It is highly interesting to observe how the national prosperity
of Chili has increased with the spread of education among the
people. But a few years ago her trade was small, her re
sources undeveloped, and her political state among the lowest
of the South American states. She has now a large trade, her
exports exceeding her imports, which are very large. Previous
to 1832 there were but one or two public schools in the whole
republic ; two were founded in 1834 — one in 1837 — one in
1839— two in 1841— and two in 1842. In 1843 the attention
of government was directed to the subject of education, and
eighteen schools were founded — twenty in 1844 — thirteen in
1845— ten in 1847— seven in 1848— and five in 1849. This
increase in schools has been followed by an increase of pupils,
and female children are now very generally sent to school —
Chili having wisely turned her attention to their education —
knowing how much a mother's character influences the future
life of her citizens. The principle of government is free suf
frage to all of twenty five years of age who cau read and write
and possess $200. Legislation is vested in a chamber of
deputies and senate — senators are elected for nine years, and

SO THE VALE OF PARADISE.
deputies for three years. The president is elected for five
years. The bay is two and a half miles wide, circular in form, the
southern side being occupied by arsenals, navy-yards, etc. Run
ning along the beach, as I before remarked, is a wide, beautiful
street, its southern extremity being devoted to business. Here is
the Custom House, a handsome stuccoed building with a clock-
tower ; nearly opposite, the Merchants Exchange, filled up with
reading-rooms, etc. etc. with a fine view of the bay and shipping ;
further along is the Plaza de Victoria, ornamented with a fountain
and a theatre capable of containing two thousand people. This
section is called the Almendral or Almond Grove, for what rea
son I cannot imagine, but I suppose on the same principle that
Valparaiso is called the " Valley of Paradise," when it should
rather have been called the " Valley of the infernal regions."
The retail business is entirely in the hands of the French
and Germans, and the shop windows remind one of the "Palais
Royal." The wholesale business is carried on by English and
Germans ; the principal house is that of Huth, Gruning &
Co.; the Americans being represented by Messrs. Alsop & Co.,
a house of influence and long standing on the coast.
The society of Valparaiso has always been excellent ; the
ChiUan ladies, noted for their beauty, and looking with lenient
eyes upon "outside barbarians," while the ladies on Cerro
Alegre, or " Merryhill," as the terraced residence of the
foreigners is aptly styled, always were celebrated for their
hospitality and amiability.
A great drawback to a residence on this coast is the fre
quency of earthquakes ; constantly occurring,' they keep one in
continual dread, and on this very terrace I experienced the first
shock that I ever felt.

EARTHQUAKES. 81
Dining with our hospitable consul, Mr. Moorhead, while in
the act of taking wine with a lady guest, an unaccountable
feeling came over me, and without knowing why or wherefore
we simultaneously set down our glasses. In an instant Mrs.
Moorhead, without a word, rushed from the table and threw
open all the doors, and taking her children by the hand, step
ped out upon the terrace. The gentlemen remained seated —
still the feeling of oppression — the wine glasses and decanters
began to dance — and then — it was over — and the oppression
passed awray.. I was rather frightened, but kept my own coun
sel, but must here confess that on each and every other occa
sion I was more and more terrified. Some four years after
wards I stood on almost the very identical spot, and experi
enced one of the most violent shocks ever known there ; the
earth yawned, houses tumbled about, and the sea boiled over.
I wasn't frightened that time, I was temporarily insane.
The climate of Valparaiso is peculiar — the thermometer will
average about 40° Fahrenheit in winter, the cold not being
sufficiently severe to blight vegetation, although I have seen ice
in the streets in July, or mid-winter. The heat of summer is
at times intense, but tempered by the sea-breeze.
Its fruits are delicious and various ; the strawberry grows to
mammoth size, and I have seen them nearly as large as the
bowl of an ordinary wineglass, their flavor is very fine.
Currants, gooseberries and cherries likewise abound ; the figs
are luscious, as are the nectarines, grapes, and pears and melons
of all varieties ; of tropical fruits there are a profusion, such
as lemons, oranges, and the indescribable cheremoyas.
Wrapping oneself in a poncho, with a supply of cigars and
brandy, the one to neutralize the garlicy odor of the coachman,

82 SANTIAGO.
and the other to keep out the raw, cold air, and seating one
self in a volante, an indescribable kind of gig, with three
raw-boned horses harnessed to it, away we go, clickety-clack,
over hill and precipice, for a host of hours, through daylight
and darkness, until we find ourselves closed in by the Andes
and central Cordillera ranges, and rapidly nearing the large
and populous city, Santiago, the capital of the republic ; and
well does a visit to the capital repay one for the unmerciful
mountain ride, and hairbreadth escapes which seem to the un
sophisticated eye to succeed each other momentarily, from its
commencement to his journey's end. Imagine it 1 far up in
the lap of the Andes mountains 1 a huge city ! occupying seven
square miles of substantial dwelling houses, fountains and
bridges, and a delightful society of beautiful and well informed
women and cultivated men ; such is the Santiago of the pre
sent day. Divided into squares, an arm of the river traverses
each street, cooling it and carrying off the garbage ; the
houses are generally low, and roofed with red tiles, which give
rather a picturesque air to the city ; they have very thick
walls and but few windows, their solidity answering both pur
poses of security against earthquakes and as non-conductors to
the heats of summer. Among the more prominent of the
buildings, we find the grand cathedral, constructed of granite,
with a front of three hundred and fifty feet, and is quite an
imposing structure ; within, it is exceedingly damp and gloomy,
and its pictures and altar ornaments are far from striking.
The music is however fine, an English organ of exquisite tone
having recently been erected, and as there are some good
voices in the choir, the chants and symphonies are at times de
lightful. The Mint is a very attractive and prominent building,

THE LADIES OF SANTIAGO. 83
in the Grecian style; the coining is now done through the agency
of steam ; the building is partly occupied by the president,
and also by the state officers. The churches and convents
boast of but little architectural beauty, and are innumerable,
supported by the Dominicans, Mercedarias, Augustines, Fran
ciscans, etc., etc. A pleasant town is this, truly, with its
Philadelphia-like squares — its beautiful shrubbery, so delighted
in by its fair ladies — its little running streams — its marble
fountains — its picturesque bridges over its tumbling torrents —
and its sunsets, gorgeously beautiful, as they reflect their hues
of gold and orange and purple upon the far off snow-clad moun
tains. The society of Santiago is delightful, and perhaps the
best to be found on the South American continent. Far in the
interior, the women still retain a strong nationality of character
and are .as yet free from the exactions of Parisian etiquette,
which so illy becomes the Spanish maiden ; naturally dignified,
with an air as fearless and as free from affectation as might be
imagined from* their remoteness from the world, they charm
you with their naivete and piquancy of expression, and melt you
with the tenderness of their glances ; with complexions of pure
white and red — with full black eye, and profusion of glossy
locks, and of majestic form, they are most attractive women.
The men are like all South American men (with few. ex
ceptions), well mannered, well dressed— gamblers and roues —
no private and no social virtues. There is one very funny cus
tom existing here ; at a certain season of the year, the old men
take to kite-flying, and no expense is spared in getting up the
most elaborate styles, profusely ornamented, and at night lit
up with numberless lanterns attached to them ; to each kite is
affixed a knife, and each kite-flyer does his utmost to cut his

84 COASTING.
neighbor's kite-string. This is the Sunday afternoon amuse
ment, and the old gentlemen are in great glee when they can
cut loose their neighbor's property.
Leaving Valparaiso and many recently made friends, we
steam steadily along the coast. Soon we are abreast of
Coquimbo, the great copper depot of the country ; a miserable
hole in itself, but of considerable commercial importance. We
find some half-dozen ships anchored there. We next enter the
port of Caldera, the terminus of the Copiapo railroad, an
enterprise of incalculable importance to the mining interests of
the country, and executed with great labor, by American en
gineers ; this road brings into market an immense amount of
silver and copper ores, which would otherwise have remained in
their native beds, on account of the great cost of transporta
tion by mules. Caldera has rapidly increased in population
within a few years, and is now one of the most convenient har
bors on the coast, with its fine breakwaters and piers. On
ward we go, and a day or two brings us into the harbor of
Cobija, the only port of Bolivia, a pretty little pla.ce, of about
fifteen hundred inhabitants, exporting large quantities of cop
per, as well as silver and tin.
We now are off the coast of Peru, and enter the port
of Iquique, containing about 1,000 inhabitants, formed by
an indentation of the coast. This is a wretched hole; not a
drop of water fit for a human being to drink, nor indeed any
thing fit to eat. It exports large quantities of saltpetre.
The next place we make is the port of Arica, built on a
commanding bluff some 500 feet above the level of the sea, and
is a place of considerable importance, being the outlet of
Southern Peru and the Port of Tacua, a considerable city in

COASTING. 85
the interior. It has been several times destroyed by earth
quakes, and has been the scene of several bloody revolutionary
struggles. Large quantities of peruvian bark, copper ore, sil
ver, and wool, are exported. A railroad to the interior has
lately been constructed under the superintendence of our in
telligent and able countryman, Mr. Walton Evans, and is now
in successful operation.
More northerly stKl lies the port of Islay. On a barren rock
are situated a collection of miserable houses which compose the
town ; not a sign of vegetation, and an infernal heat, and to
add to its delights, a heavy surf continually breaks along its
shores, rendering a landing dangerous and disagreeable; indeed,
I myself came near being drowned once or twice in it. This is
the seaport for the town of Arequipa, a principal city of the
republic, and is consequently a place of some Kttle importance.
Rich as Peru is in antiquities — intense as is the interest felt
by the civilized world in the land of the Inca — brilKant as is
the thread of romance woven into a beautiful fabric by the
magic pen of Prescott — stUl it was reserved to her valuable
deposits of guano to render the name of Peru a household word
n the mouth of the farmer and of the merchant; a bone of
contention among political factions, each party strives to get
possession of the islands, for having control of them affords the
ruKng power every facility for feathering their own nests and
taking care of their favorites. It is a well received fact, that
the presence of gold mines is rather a curse than a blessing to
a country, rendering it extravagant, and causing a neglect of
her more staple resources. This is eminently the case with the
guano, as regards the Peruvian government; the Chincha
Islands affording a constant supply of ready cash, has begotten

86 THE WINKS OF PERU.
such systematic extravagance and laxity in the government
administration, that the country is on the brink of ruin. Na
tional honor is unknown, and in spite of her wealth, Peru is and
has been long a bankrupt, only paying the interest on her
debts at the muzzles of French and British cannon.
Peering through the grey fog of a September morning, we
see running along the beach a pretty rambling town, with
here and there a picturesque-looking church, half hidden among
olive and orange groves — and this is Pisco, a barrier of surf
dashing its spray into the very portals of the houses. This
Pisco is the port of lea, a town far away in the interior; the
market town, if it may be so called, of a fertile and rich valley
bearing the same name, whose products are of great commer
cial importance. Its cotton, of strong and silky texture, is
known from Oregon to Cape Horn, and its sugars are largely
exported to the northern ports, as well as to Chili. Here the
Italia grape is extensively cultivated,' and is a magnificent
fruit, white in color and rich in flavor; a delightful liquor is
distilled from it, called Italia, which has a very pleasant aro
matic flavor. This is the standard drink of the country, and
the consumption is enormous. It is put up in long earthen
jars with narrow necks, holding from two to three gallons, and
is thus shipped about the coast. Don Domingo Elias, a man
of unbounded wealth and great political power, is the principal
landholder of this vicinity, and pays great attention to the
cultivation of the vine and cane. His vineyards are most
extensive, and besides his Italia distilleries, he has large
wine vaults under the superintendence of experienced European
vintners, who produce a very choice article of Madeira,
Sherry, and Amontillado. This section abounds in delicious

THE GUANO ISLANDS. 87
fruits, and the cheremoyas and oranges are here in perfec
tion. Looking seaward from Pisco, about eleven miles from shore,
a thick yellow mist is seen to rise high into heaven, and
through it the indistinct forms of three rocky islets, surrounded
by a forest of masts. Puzzled at so unusual an appearance,
we ask what it means, and are told that those are the- " Chin-
chas," the famous Guano islands. A few revolutions of our
engine, and before we have half done ogling the pretty cho-
Ktas who came aboard at Pisco, we are abreast the group.— It
was a curious sight. — A fleet of the world's finest merchantmen,
the gems and pride of the mercantile marine, moored in tiers
around three miserable rocks in mid-ocean, without the vestige
of vegetation, or the sign (as far as we could see), of human
habitation upon them. There, in a cloud of dust, they lay, be
smeared with the yellow powder which nothing can escape,
their hatches open, and ton' after ton of earth and mud pouring
into their holds. This is guano, to be carried to the worn-out
fields of Europe, Asia, and North America, to be reproduced
into food.
The north island is the principal of the group, and here the
English and German vessels usually load. This island is under
the superintendence of one Serate, whose reputation is world
wide among sea-faring men, as a wily old diplomat, and as
smooth-spoken and corruptible an old fox as ever lived; and
having the discretion of facilitating or retarding the loading of
ships, he is always ready for a -proposal on the part of an
impatient captain.
The middle island is the rendezvous of the American ships;
and a gay place it is, too, when there is a large assemblage of

88 FEATHERED ISAAC WALT0N8.
ships present (which is generally the case). The masters of
the present day, having such elegant accommodations aboard
their spacious clippers, often take their families with them, and
I have seen, at a ball given on shipboard at the Chinchas, up
wards of thirty American women. Each vessel, according to
her charter, being obliged to lie there from two to three
months, a greater part of which time they are doing nothing,
of course every mode is resorted to for killing time, and balls,
regattas, pic-nics, and boat excursions, are the order of the
day, and one island vies with the other in fun, frolic, and the
brilliancy of its entertainments.
The climate is most delicious — the atmosphere, always cloud
less, is in the morning very still, without a breath — the sea calm
and glassy ; at noon the Paraca comes out strong from the south
ward, and blows half a gale till sunset — this gives elegant
opportunities for boat-sailing, which are not thrown away.
One of the great features of this part of the world, is the
indescribable number of birds which are continually flying
about, almost obstructing the light of day. A hundred diffe
rent species of the gull family, and pelicans ad infinitum. It is
positively wonderful to watch them, as with military precision
they form into line, and drawing up in crescent shape, they
hover over a devoted shoal of fish frolicking on the surface of
the water. At a given signal, every mother's son of them close
their wings, and fall splash into the sea, like an avalanche of
stones, and in a second out they come again, each with a qui
vering fish in his beak ; this goes on eternally, and lines of
clumsy old pelicans are seen stretching away, in single file, as
far as the eye can reach. As soon as one platoon get their
fill, they retire to the rocks, surfeited, to digest, and it is a comi-

GUANO DEPOSITS. 89
cal sight to see those astute, long-billed pelicans perched on an
eminence gravely surveying the world about them. Words can
give no adequate idea of the numbers of this feathery kingdom
— their name is Legion.
Another institution, peculiar to these islands, is the seals,
who appear almost as numerous as the birds themselves ; you
cannot look over the ship's side without seeing half a dozen of
them frolicking about, and as you are pulling around in your
boat, you may at any time see their devilish countenances
grinning at you.
What with the birds and seals it is not so wonderful a thing)
after all, the production of such immense amounts of guano ;
for the excrement from seal and bird must be something enor
mous in one year alone, whereas these accumulations have been
going on for thousands of years ; and not only that, but it is
conceded that much of the guano is produced, not from their
excrement, but from the decomposed carcasses of the seals
themselves ; for it is said, that, by a wonderful instinct, this
unwieldy, ponderous (if I may use the expression) animal seeks
the shore to die. Certain it is that they travel a long way
over barren rocks, and, by some method or other to me un
known, manage to scale great hills, with what object I cannot
conceive, for it seems unnatural that these unwieldy leviathans
should prefer a hot, sandy climb to a pleasant swim among the
shady grottoes of their own caves.
The superficial extent of the three islands is about seven
miles ; yet, says a good authority, ships may take annually
50,000 tons for more than a century without exhausting
them. A late survey, made by practical men, give 6,000,000
tons, and estimate the yearly consumption at from 450,000 to

90 MODUS-OPERANDI.
600,000 tons. Its color is of a reddish, or snuff-colored tint ;
indeed it looks more like Scotch snuff than anything that I
know of, and is of the same consistency, When taken from
the island, it has a large element of ammonia in it, so much so,
that on going into a ship's hold laden with it, sneezing, cough
ing, and watery eyes are the penalty ; indeed large lumps of
ammonia are found running through it. The working of the
guano is a most awful business, and is only performed by crimi
nals, or by Chinamen imported for the purpose ; these latter
poor devils very soon get used up, as the quantities of dust
taken into the lungs speedily produces phthisis. They are
most inhumanly treated by their taskmasters, and, by way of
revenge, commit suicide by throwing themselves off the chff — a
constant occurrence,.
The guano is first loosened with the pick ; then shovelled
into wheelbarrows and wheeled to the brink of the cliff, and
there dumped into a canvas tunnel which leads into the
launches below, which are waiting to receive it and convey it to
the ship. These tunnels are called mangueras or sleeves, and
some of them are immensely large. Under these the large
ships haul, the tunnels leading down into their hold, and their
loading is thus completed in a day or two ; nevertheless, they
have to wait their turn, and are sometimes detained eighty or
one hundred days before that turn comes, a pretty serious affair
for a ship of 1,500 or 2,000 tons, whose expenses are not less
than $200 per day. — Covered with dust, let us take a glass of
Elias' excellent Italian sherry, and bid ¦ adieu to the Chincha
Islands. Following up the coast, half a dozen hours bring out " Cerro
Azul," a quiet nook-landing place, and port for the lovely valley

A CAPSIZE IN THE SURF. 91
of Caiiete. Loveliest and most fertile of all Pern, dear old
Caiiete, I will not soon forget the refreshing panoramic view
that stretches away before the visitor, after he leaves the little
village at the port, and winds around the hills and gallops over
to Casa Blanca and La Quebrada — the waving cane, the
rambling vineyards, the haciendas with their groups of build
ings, sugar-works, negro-quarters, and tasty belfried chapels,
while donkey trains and mounted pleasure-seekers, whirling
over the plain, give life to an exquisitely rural scene.
In company with young Lord C  , I've galloped away
over these green plantations, exhilarated and overflowing with
spirits, until, arrested by the kind invitation of some hospitable
hacendado, we have dismounted to do justice to his fare. Old
Cerro Azul I will not soon forget your angry curling rollers.
One morning, coming to an anchor in the little harbor,
C-  (who, by the way, was making a pleasure-trip with me
in my steamer) proposed going ashore. Ordering my boat, we
stepped into her, and pulled away to shore. The surf was
running pretty strong, but I thought nothing of it, and had
passed several rollers, when the thole-pin, confining my steer
ing oar, gave suddenly away. In a moment the boat broached
to ; a sea shot her ten feet in the air, and left his lordship and
myself struggling in the surf. We, however, got out without
much difficulty, only at the expense of a wet jacket ; but it
might have been worse.

CHAPTER V.

LIMA.

Discovery of Peru — Thrillingly romantic Scenes enacted by Christian
Knights and Yuca Warriors — Final subjection of the Incas — City of
Lima — Its Aspect from the Bay — Its Cathedral — Its Plaza — Its many
Elements of Population — Its Manners and Customs — Society — Inse
curity from Robbery — Hotels — Her Majesty's Plenipo drubbed by an
American Consul — Bull-fights — Patron Saint — Departure from Lima —
Sail up the Coast — Paita — Entrance to Guaquil River — The City —
The Peak of Chimborazo.
" Tumble up and take a look at Lima I" was sung out down the
hatchway. And is that really Lima 1 — then indeed is one of the fondest
of my boyhood's dreams about being reaKzed ; to tread the
streets of the " City of Kings."
On the eve of manhood, when the imagination was the most
powerful, when the mind was craving excitement, and when
the soul was all susceptibility, daguerreotyping each hour new
and opposite impressions ; at that period of my life my eye
chanced to light upon a History of the Conquest of Peru :
attracted by its title, I resolved upon reading it, and, glancing
hurriedly over the first few pages, I began to grow interested,
as, with thrilling eloquence of style, the unheard of energy
and daring of the Christian knights was portrayed ; as they
02

SPANISH BRAVERY. 'Jo
went iuto battle, I accompanied them, and entered with aK the
ardor of youth into their unequal conflicts ; with rapture I
drank in the seductive descriptions of Inca wealth and luxury,
and forgetting my admiration of the Spaniard, sympathized
with the natives in their hour of trial when Pizarro treacher
ously made Atahaulpa a prisoner in his own domain ; foUowing
them through the whole campaign — at one time glorying in
the daring bravery of the handful of Spaniards in bearding
vast hosts in their mountain fastnesses, and, at another, shed
ding tears of sympathy over the bitter lot of the " children of
the sun,' robbed, and forever, of their birthright ; so enrap
tured did I become with everything connected with this romantic
country, that I resolved before I died, if I could possibly effect
it, to visit Peru, every foot of whose territory was classic
ground, whose rivers as they flowed along chaunted a solemn
requiem, and whose heaven-soaring peaks were splendid monu
ments of her ancient glory.
While yet my desire to visit South America was unrealized,
I stumbled upon Prescott's Peru — that masterpiece of modern
Kterature, that perfection of prose-poetry, if I may be allowed
the expression — and never did an enthusiastic reader throw
himself more completely under the influence of vivid description
than did I, in devouring the contents of that peerless book ;
with him, too, I climbed the lofty Cordillera, and drank in his
glorious sketches of mountain scenery ; with him I luxuriated
in the fairy magnificence of the palaces of the Incas, as " In
secluded vales, refreshed by gushing fountains of running
waters, with favorite wives about them, they dreamed away
existence in the midst of gardens, whose flowers shed soft,
intoxicating odors, lulling them to repose." Unimaginative

94 INCA MAGNIFICENCE.
indeed would be the youth who could follow the great historian
through his captivating work, and not become deeply impressed
with the individuality of each locality so faithfully described,
and in each and all of the dramatis persona, whose prowess
was so spiritedly set forth. To the hot blood of youth, the
reckless bravery of a Pizarro would kindle an irrepressible
enthusiasm in his veins ; the quicker beating of the heart, the
glowing cheek and kindling eye, would all indicate, while
reading of his feats, the intensity of interest felt in his deeds :
then how much more profound would be the emotion, when
gazing upon a city, whose first stone was raised by his own
hands, when distinguishing from the hundreds of steeples,
standing out in sharp and well-defined outline against the lofty
sierra, the towers of that ancient cathedral, 'neath whose
dome repose the ashes of that mighty chieftain, where for
more than two hundred years they have lain undisturbed.
Seven miles in the interior lay the city, with a gradual rise of
five hundred feet from the sea ; the slope occupied by planta
tions of waving grass and grain, with here and there an
orchard of banana or of orange to relieve its monotony, and
fringed with the town of Callao, its buildings and its shipping,
flanked by its far famed castle, the last rallying point of
Spanish tyranny upon this coast.
With rapture I gazed upon the scene, gilded by the rising
sunbeam, listening to the sweet bells summoning to mass,
which, mingled , with the low roar of the surf, softly stole
through the quiet silence of a Sabbath morn ; for the harbor
was resting from its weekly labors, and no sound arose to
break the magic spell of dreamy revery. Two short hours
found me kneeling, with some thousand others, listening to the

P I Z A R R 0 . 'JO
strains of the organ as they pealed 'neath the dark arches of
that grand old cathedral; before its altars of massive gold and
silver, long processions of priests, arrayed in jewelled robes of
fabulous value, preceded by acolytes with swinging censer,
with measured tread and with many genuflexions, passed,
slowly repeating with sonorous voice the holy petitions of their
mass-books ; the vast multitude, with bowed head and down
cast eye, apparently absorbed in the sublimity of the service ;
the brilliant blazes of a thousand tapers, their bright rays reflect
ed from sdver plate and glistening jewel, contrasted strangely
with the awful gloom of this vast edifice, which, notwithstand
ing a morning's sun without, was shrouded in almost impene
trable darkness ; spectral, indeed, appeared its vaulted arches
and its long, dim aisles, with here and there an altar lit up by
a few dim tapers, or a confessional before whose grated win
dow a veiled penitent was whispering her shortcomings.
Beneath my feet was all that remains of the conquering
Pizarro ! and beside me the crouching form of the conquered !
No longer worshipping the sun, but a slave in belief as well as
corporeally, he now sends up his meaningless prayers before the
same altar where worshipped the usurper I Long after the
crowd had risen from their knees and had gone their ways,
and the organ's trembling notes had ceased reverberating
aloDg the groined roof, I remained pacing the gloomy aisles,
looking with awe upon the hideous representations of the Pas
sion and the Descent from the Cross, painted by men whose
only merit must have lain in their ability to impart a vivid idea
of the horrible.
Groping about, I came upon the Sacristan, who offered to
show me, if I wished to see them, the remains of Pizarro !

96 A FINE OLD FOUNTAIN.
******
And is that all that's left of the conqueror of Peru ? Could
those skeleton arms be those that had once wielded a battle-
axe, before which no Christian knight could stand, no Inca-
host could maintain itself ? As he thundered forth his well-
known battle-cry, " Saint Yago, to the rescue ?" How hum
bling to human ambition the thought that the conqueror of
half the world lay stretched before us a withered mummy I
Oppressed by the unwholesome damp of the cathedral
vaults, I was glad to reach again the open air, and stepping
forth into it found myself on the Grand Plaza of Lima ; its
centre is ornamented by a fountain with large reservoirs, the
water flowing from the mouths of four lions, the lower basins
resting upon a pedestal some ten feet high, the upper supported
by a column, rising from which is a figure of Fame surmounted
by a ball ; this is quite a fine specimen of old Spanish art, and
was executed some two hundred years ago, giving character to
the square.
This is the rendezvous for half the water-carriers of Lima,
who form an important element of the community ; important,
for every household in the city is supplied by them with every
drop of water consumed, who, in their turn obtain it from the
fountains. Each aguador or water-carrier (all of whom, with
few exceptions, are negroes, and of the very worst class) owns
his burro, a little jackass, on whose back is slung a frame
work, holding on either side a cask capable of containing five
gallons of water, the negro himself sitting on the poor little
animal's haunches behind his load, guiding him by striking him
on either side of his head contrary to the direction which he
wishes him to take, with a long pole which serves the double

A FIGHTING CUINAMAN. 97
purpose of cudgel and as a support for the full cask, when its
vis-a-vis is emptied. The fountain, as I said before, is the
try sting place for a hundred or so of these negroes, and, of
course, a perfect pandemonium when all are assembled. These
Zambos, exuberant with their native wit, let no opportunity
pass unimproved for a practical joke, which is the cause of
constant and uproarious mirth, and oftentimes of bloody and
fatal brawls ; vociferating in the loud key peculiar to the
African, their voices can be heard for a long distance, drown
ing every other sound. Fifty times a day have I gone to my
window, during the period of a subsequent residence, thinking
from the noise that a serious disturbance was taking place,
but each time finding that there was . nothing very serious
the matter. I remember one day when riding across the
plaza accompanied by a friend, being attracted by a row
causing more than ordinary commotion ; reining up our horses,
we forced our way among the crowd. Struggling to maintain
his turn at the spout to fill his casks, was a half-naked China
man, who had evidently only recently taken up the profession
of aguador, and around him were some fifty blacks trying to
thrust him from his position, he hanging on like grim death,
his countenance perfectly distorted with rage, his eyes blood
shot, and foam running from his mouth, never did I look upon
such a personification of passion as he struggled with his tor
mentors ; still he clung to the spout with incredible tena.city,
until at last suddenly relaxing his hold, freeing himself, and
seizing an immense bamboo-pole, and bending himself backward^.
to give force to the blow, he brought it down on the heads of
his assailants with terrific violence, and so sudden had been
this movement, and so actively were the blows followed up,
5

98 SPANISH BUGLERS.
that in a moment the ground was covered with the prostrate
forms of half a dozen negroes. I can see him now, as with
distended eyes and foaming lips, with hair standing on end, he
rained the bamboo on their black skulls. Knives were soon
drawn, and" my companion, knowing the poor Coolie would be
murdered if left to the tender mercies of the mob, seized him
by his pig-tail, and, dashing his spurs into his horse's flanks,
in a moment cleared the crowd, and was at the palace gate.
Slinging the poor devil, crazy with fear and rage, into the
portal, among the soldiers, we rode off. The next night he was
assassinated !
On my right hand was the palace, occupying the whole of
the east side of the Plaza — a long, low, rambling building, over
which waved the Peruvian standard, and around whose gate
ways squads of dirty soldiers were lounging ; a palace only
by courtesy, it looked more like a huge stable. This was
formerly the palace of the viceroys, and in a long hall were,
until recently, hanging the portraits of their whole line, from
Pizarro down, which have, however, been transferred to the
national Museum. Some years after this, while living opposite
to this building, I bore it a deadly spite ; for each morning at
day-break a reveille" of drums and bugles awoke all the echoes
of the square, breaking the rest of the sleeping neighbors, loud
enough, indeed, to awake the dead beneath the cathedral's
dome ; they tooted and tooted away to an extent incredible to
any one unacquainted with the strength of lung vouchsafed to
*he Spanish bugler.
The other two sides of the square were formed by. long rows
of buildings, two stories high ; the upper story projecting over
the sidewalk, forming a colonade, along which are the shops

ICES AND GREASES. 99
of the dry-goods merchants, resplendent with all the wealth of
French, Italian, and Indian stuffs, and so disposed as to make
a brilliant display, and to attract the eye of the beautiful
Limanian as she saunters under their cool arches. Between
the pillars, busily pursuing their avocation, are embroiderers
of gold and silver, with here and there an Indian flower-girl,
with her bouquets tastily arranged for sale ; and outside are
the ice-cream venders, extending along the two sides of the
square, and whose benches are always occupied. The Lima-
nians have a singular fondness for ices at all hours, but more
particularly when they first get up in the morning ; and from
daybreak until seven or eight o'clockit is almost impossible to
get a vacant seat. Men, women, and children all congregate
here ; and really it used to give me a cramp, to see a delicate
woman gulping down the contents of an enormous glass, holding
at least a pint of orange or lemon ice, on an empty stomach.
In the evening the whole surface of the Plaza is taken pos
session of by itinerant cooks, who, bringing their portable
furnaces, provisions, chairs and tables, improvise at a stroke
a kitchen and a dining-room, and at once set to work to
compound national messes, such as the Peruvians delight in, the
populace wandering around from table to table, stuffing them
selves with ices and greases, which latter is the principal com
pound of all Peruvian dishes — of course the whole atmosphere
is redolent of smoke and garlic.
The scene nightly presented from the balcony overhanging
the square, was always entertaining — the indistinct forms of •
the cathedral and palace — the moving multitude gaily wander
ing around from booth to booth, and across the long shadows
that shot from the shop-windows ; the little furnaces glowing

100 IN EXTREMES.
red, and the hundred discordant cries of the hosts of pedlars
vociferously praising their wares.
Suddenly the door of the cathedral is thrown open, a pro
cession sallies forth, their low chant is heard, and with each a
taper in his hand, they wind along the front of the cathedral,
and a tinkling bell announces it to be the host being taken to
the bedside of some dying man. At the first sound of the bell
every man of this joyous, noisy multitude drops on his knees as
if he were shot, every tongue is stilled, and a death-like silence
ensues, unbroken, save by the doleful chant as they hurry on,
on their gloomy errand. No sooner are they past, than Bedlam
is again let loose, and the row is greater than before. To a
foreign observer all this is extremely curious ; the strange
customs, the style of dress, the sudden and apparently deep
devotion paid to religious forms, all strike the casual observer
with great force.
On the northwest corner of the Plaza, occupying nearly
half of the north side is Morin's " Hotel de los Bafios," probably
the best kept inn in South America, the great centering point
for all foreigners, whatever their nation, but more particularly
the Americans and English; having the best location in Lima,
and looking out on the grand Plaza, and down the whole
length of the Calle de Commercio, the principal street, and
having a very good table d'hote, and very fair sleeping-rooms,
some indeed with parlors attached, and very handsomely fitted
up, it offers great inducements to the traveller. The chambers
and dining-rooms are in the altos or second story, while the
ground floor is devoted to billiard and bath-rooms, and a hand
some cafe ; here at sunset the fashionables resort to sip their
coffee and liquors, while some skillful players contest a game

JOHN BDLLI8M. 101
of billiards. The style of these buildings is very peculiar, for
while the grouud floor is built with great regard to strength,
the alto or second story is constructed as slightly as possible,
on account of earthquakes ; the long galleries running in every
direction, along whose sides the apartments are arranged, being
without a roof ; thus in going from one room to another one is
obliged to go in the open air, no great drawback to one's
comfort however, in a country where it never rains, and the
thermometer rarely falls below 60° Fahrenheit.
One suit of rooms on the corner of the Calle de Commercio
and the plaza were really quite elegant, fitted up by a French
upholsterer in the last French style, with handsome mirrors,
and lit by gas, and in them I was domiciliated on a subsequent
occasion with my family, much to our comfort. Shortly
before our occupancy quite an interesting scene was enacted in
them. On board of one of the steamers coming down from
Panama, happened to be passengers the English envoy to Peru
and the American minister to Chili, and his wife ; on the
arrival of the vessel at Callao, both, diplomatists sent their
servants up to Lima to Morin's Hotel to engage rooms, but
neither of them speaking Spanish, the major-domo, by some
mistake ror other thought that they both represented one
master (it being an unusual thing for two envoys-extraordinary
to get aboard the same steamer in that part of the world),
and consequently assigned them the same suite of rooms. In
an hour or two, up drives the American and his wife, and he
is bowed into his apartments. Well pleased at being so
snugly quartered, he refreshes himself, makes his toilet, and
goes out to call on the resident minister, leaving his wife to
rest (in deshabille), from her fatigue. Scarcely has he left the

102 YANKEE PUGNACITY.
house before up drives the English minister, and blusteringly
demands to be led to his apartments, and the servant conducts
him to the door of the room occupied by the American.
Meanwhile the landlord smelling a rat, and instantly discover
ing his blunder, bowingly approaches H. M. minister, begs
that monsieur will forgive the error, and that he shall have
rooms a thousand times more comfortable, and all that sort of
thing ; but it's no go ; the Englishman swears he will have the
rooms, and commences knocking at the door. The American
lady, throwing on a wrapper, opens the door, and on learning
the cause of the disturbance, begs " his majesty " to desist
until her husband returns when all will be arranged ; but his
majesty is not to be appeased, insists upon the woman's leaving
at once, and uses most insulting language— the lady seeking
protection in another room. Meanwhile, the Yankee minister
returns, and on learning the cause of the row, and that his wife
has been insulted, seizes the unlucky Briton by the neck and
gives him a most tremendous hiding, breaking his cane over
his head ; he then walks to his writing-desk and pens a chal
lenge which a friend bears; but his majesty is not a fighting
man, and so the affair ends.
The Limanians have a most remarkable way of naming their
streets, by what motive actuated I cannot conceive, unless it is
to mystify strangers, for instead of calling a street running in
a direct line by one name for its whole length, they call it by
forty different ones at least, each square having a different ap
pellation. This leads to endless confusion, and in order in some
degree to modify it, they tell you, on inquiring for a person's
residence, that he lives in such a street and such a number " in
San Pedro or Santo Domingo," etc. — that is to say, that the

WASHERWOMEN. 103
street is. in the immediate vicinity of one or the other of these
churches, and there being some sixty of them in Lima, the
place sought for is pretty certain to be in the neighborhood of
some one or other of them. I had ample experience of the in
convenience attending this during a campaign of house-hunting,
which extended over a space of some three weeks, during
which time I believe I inspected some two or three hundred
houses before I could get suited. Rents were most enormous —
from $1,500 to $2,500 per annum for anything like a decent
house, and they were invariably so excessively filthy and out
of repair, that it would have required an equivalent to the first
year's rent to put the house in habitable order.
One of the greatest nuisances incidental to a residence in
Lima, is the difficulty of getting decent servants. In fact,
there are none in the country; the negroes are insolent and
robbers, and sometimes assassins besides, and the Indians, or
Choles (half-breeds), are heavy, stupid, and lazy; yet for all
that, wages are from $18 to $25 per month. No one can keep
a servant unless he advances his wages, gives him a good
chance to steal, and lends him a couple of dollars or so every
month; otherwise they go off and leave you in the lurch when
ever they feel inclined.
The washerwomen are the most independent persons of their
class that I ever saw. One being recommended to me by the
hotel-keeper, I made a bargain with her for $2 per dozen,
besides buying soap and starch ! and she was to wash and iron
the clothes, and bring them to me in ten days. Ten days
passed, and fifteen. too, still no woman. Getting her direction,
I set out to hunt her up, and after a walk of two hours or so,
I spied her den; and there she sat, smoking and chatting with

104 STREETS.
a priest, as comfortable as you please. She begged me to
walk in and be seated; when, on my asking the reason why the
clothes had not been sent home, she very coolly informed me
that they were at the pawnbroker's, and that she hadn't money
to get them out ! There was no help for it — no use applying
to the police, for in that case I would have lost my money and
shirts too, so with a very bad grace I gave her the money to
get them out, waiting another week for them t6 be washed.
The streets leading out of the Plaza are the most fashion
able — the Calle de Commercio being the favorite promenade.
Its sides, lined with beautiful shops, in whose windows every
article of luxury devised by man is exposed for sale; judging
by the " nouveautds Parisiennes " offered, one might imagine
oneself in the Rue St. Honore'. These shops are invariably
kept by Frenchmen, and tended by pretty young Frenchwomen,
which is no disadvantage to their business. From the south
side runs the Calle de Bodegones, in which are many of the
wholesale establishments and offices of the heavy mer
cantile firms; indeed, they all centre in this vicinity. The
streets running out of the square and back of the cathedral, are
likewise appropriated to merchants' warehouses, and present,
during business hours, an extremely animated appearance.
Many of the houses in this section have a modern look, being
two and three stories in height, with modern fronts. Proceed
ing in this direction, we come upon the San Pedro quarter,
decidedly the most aristocratic portion of the city, and several
of the houses, dating very far back, show fine specimens of
carving. The old mansion of Torre Tagle is most elaborately
and artistically ornamented in that way, and well worth exami
nation. The church of San Pedro covers ap enormous plot of

PLAZA DE LA INQ0ISICION. 105
grbund, but has no architectural beauty, and is not at present
very influential. It was formerly occupied by the Jesuits, and
was the wealthiest church in Lima, but since their departure
its glory has departed.
Further on, turning to the left, you come upon the Plaza de
la Inquisicion, where many an " auto-da-fe " has been cele
brated, sanctioned by the presence of the viceroys. . On the
abolition of the inquisitorial power, the maddened populace
rushed into the palace and completely gutted it, liberating the
unfortunate sufferers from confinement. The building is now
occupied by the National Assembly. It is very extensive, and
besides a chamber for the senators and deputies, there are also
offices for the different departments of state. The chamber of
deputies is a long room with hangings, with some good old
pictures on the walls, and with elaborately carved seats. There
are likewise galleries for lady visitors. The discussions are
frequently very stormy, and if not conducted in a spirit to please
the governmental ear, they are occasionally terminated by a
corporal's guard appearing among them. In the year 1856,
Ramon Castillo, the President, posted a park of artillery in the
Alameda, and bearing upon the chamber of deputies, after
which he strode into the hall, and intimated " that if certain
obnoxious motions were not withdrawn, he would blow the
whole party to  !" A second Cromwell ! although I very
much doubt if the material of which the Peruvian Assembly
was formed was such as was to be found in the praise God
bare-bone Parliament.
The city is divided into two parts by the river Rimac, and
one of the streets leading out of the square crosses it on a
handsome stone bridge, 550 feet long, with six arches, and
5*

106 ALAMEDA.
thirty-seven feet above the water. This bridge, built two hun
dred years ago, is a noble piece of engineering, having resisted
the quaking of the earthquakes of two centuries, during one of
which the town of Callao disappeared entirely, and half the
city of Lima was buried in ruins.
Crossing this bridge, and turning off to the right, on the banks
of the river is the grand Alameda, the most beautiful park
perhaps, in the world — long avenues of shade trees, extending
a mile or two, and whose branches, embracing each other, form
a perfect bower or leafy arcade for near a league. Here all
the fashion of Lima, in the evening, resort, either in coach or on
horseback, consequently the whole cavalcade have to cross the
bridge — and here the exquisites resort, where, seating them
selves on the parapet, they quiz the senoritas as they pass by.
The view from this bridge is very fine. The walled sides of
the river, from which quaint old buildings of the style of two
centuries back arise, overhanging it — the beautiful Alamdda,
with its rich luxuriance of green — the far-off mountains, and
the stream itself, as like a silver thread it winds among the
rocks and sand-banks forming the river's bed; turning round,
one sees it still pursuing its course among verdant meadows,
until it pours its waters into the sea, seven miles beyond.
A square or two off from the plaza, in another direction, is
the post office, or the " Administracion de Correos,'' as it is
called, which deserves particular mention from the singularity of
the method of carrying on its business. Necessarily, from the
widely extended territory, the postal ramifications are very
extensive, and it requires considerable talent to regulate them ;
still, upon entering the office, one would never imagine that
there was any system observed whatever, everything being

POST-OFFICE. 107
apparently intrusted to a few boys, while the letters and papers
seem thrown together in inextricable confusion. This is not,
however, the case; and I must acknowledge that one has abont
as good a chance of getting a letter addressed to him in Peru,
as he would in North America. A most extraordinary mode is
used to inform people who have letters, to that effect. There
being no boxes, an alphabetical Kst is made out, consisting, per
haps of a cocple of thousand names, which is hung in a con
spicuous place, and which one can consult at his pleasure. If
he finds his name, he observes the number corresponding, and
on calling it out at the window, he gets his letter. This, of
course, is a most laborious operation, but as it was the custom
of their forefathers, they stick to it. On the occasion of my
first visit, I was particularly struck with the dead-and-aKve
aspect of Lima, it seemed like all other Spanish towns, fast
falling into decay ; but subsequent visits showed a very sensi
ble improvement. In every quarter of the town houses were
being rebuilt and remodelled, and forgetting their dread of
earthquakes, they were almost invariably two fuU stories iu
height, not with the jalonsied alto, but in the out-and-out
European style. One building, in particular, I remember, el
Hotel de Europa, in the Calle de Commercio, was a splendid
modern building, three stories high. Also the private dwelling-
house of Candamo, the richest man in Lima, really a splendid
affair in the Bodegones. But, although when I last was in
Lima it had been long since finished, still the owner (an ex
ceedingly penurious man) only occupied one Kttle room in it,
furnished with an iron bed and washstand ; the rest of the
house he felt too poor to furnish. This Candamo is a ChiKan
of about fifty years old, who came young into Peru, and has

108 CANDAMO.
amassed an immense fortune, so much so that it is a byword,
" Rich as Candamo;" and, like aU enormously rich men,
very near. He owns the largest part of the railroad
between Lima and Callao, which is extremely lucrative. The
other proprietor is a wealthy Englishman. Each night the
daily receipts are counted up, when Caudamo's portion is
sent up to his house, as is the EngKshman's, reserving a
certain percentage to pay incidental expenses. As a matter of
course, Candamo is fawned upon by aU who have need of him,
but he is a man of uncommonly strong mind, and is not to be
humbugged. Ambitious mothers with grown-up daughters are
particularly sweet upon him, but thus far without making any
impression upon his heart of gold. Indeed very recently, a
foreign lady, the mother of some very beautiful daughters,
angled for him and got a very fair nibble ; and ill-natured
people about Lima used to say that he had gone off with the
bait, but*we beKeve it was not so.
These buildings I mention from their prominence and ele
gance of style, but there are hundreds of others which have
been improved within the last four or five years, and which
would be an ornament to any city. The style of furniture now
in vogue is precisely the latest Parisian style, and of the most
elegant description ; most of it being manufactured in the
country by French artists. It is sold at the most exorbitant
rates. The old style of Spanish chair and sofa is rapidly
disappearing. It would seem rather a dangerous experiment to build in the
European style in this country, where the ground is so very un
stable, especially as slight shocks are continually occurring, to
remind one that, during the last three centuries, Lima has been

TEMBLORS. 109
twice almost totally destroyed by earthquakes. Indeed duriug
one of my first visits, there was one of sufficient force to send
the whole population, at the dead of night, bare-legged to
the public square for security. They are, however, now of
rare occurrence, and people begin to think that they are
never to suffer again. As for myself, however, whenever I
have been in Peru, I never could forget that there was an
unpleasant possibility of being at any moment buried alive,
and rarely did I awake at night, and cast my eyes upon the
thick, jail-like walls of my bed-chamber, that I did not feel an
uncomfortable sensation of dread, lest they should suddenly
take it into their head to fall on top of me. It is highly amus
ing to be able to tell a lively story about being turned out of
one's bed at midnight, and rushing in company with a few
thousand other half-naked men and women into some open
space for safety. But the reality is not so very amusing ;
that I can vouch for. One who has never experienced the
sensation is apt to say, " What an absurd sight it must have
been !" But I can assure any such person that on such an
occasion, the sense of the ridiculous is swallowed up by
emotions of a very different nature.
At the period of my arrival in Peru, there was no railroad
between the port and the capital ; consequently, one was
obliged to go on horseback, which (the distance being only
seven miles) would have been no great drawback to one's
comfort had the road been moderately good ; but it was exe
crable. During the time of the viceroys the road had been
well paved and in good condition, but since the independence, I
doubt if an hour's work had been expended upon it, and, con
sequently, it was in a terrible condition ; the former pavement,

110 ALL ABOUT ROBBER.
lying broken and scattered about, only served to injure the
poor animal's feet, while the dust arising was positively awful,
as one can imagine would be the case upon a much-travelled
road in a tropical country, where the soil is very light, and
where it never rains. In addition to this, it was infested, in
common with all other Peruvian roads, with bands of robbers,
and not a day passed but some poor devil was relieved of his
money and assassinated. Its very propinquity to Lima furnish
ing greater security to the banditti, the authorities never tak
ing the slightest notice of their outrages. Gentlemen having
business between the two towns always went well armed, and
generally in companies ; even then, oftentimes, being obliged to
fight. A good old gentleman, a Mr. Pheifer, one of the oldest
foreign residents in Lima, used to tell the following story.
He was riding along this road one night, and suddenly,
when least expecting it, he was attacked by half a dozen
robbers, some of whom, seizing his horse by the head, forced
him to dismount, and, finding he had no money on his person,
were about proceeding to extremities, when he exclaimed,
" Gentlemen, I am Don Federico Pheifer, you doubtless all
know me ; now I promise, if you will unhand me and set me on
my horse, that I will lead you to my house, where, after giving
you a good supper, I will dismiss you with a golden ounce
apiece, and say nothing of the affair." The robbers knew their
man, and setting him on his horse, accompanied him home.
Arriving at his house, he invited the gentlemen to dismount,
and entering the house, begged them to be seated, telling his
wife to order supper immediately; without at all understand
ing what it all meant, madam presided with great. grace, and
the repast being concluded, each guest receiving his ounce,

watch! watch! Ill
took his departure ; of course Don Federico never divulged
the names of these scamps, otherwise his life would have paid
the forfeit. Poor old gentleman, his days are numbered now,
and he has passed away; for years an active and influential
citizen of Lima, he was respected by all who knew him, and by
his wealth and influence, was enabled to lend great assistance
to his needy countrymen. Having an affection of the chest, he
found that he could not breathe freely at night in the city,
and consequently, every evening would find him mounted on
his tall, black horse, at the gate of our chacara, and right
glad were we always to welcome him, for he was a genial com
panion, and one of the very few really reliable men on the
coast of South America.
The banditti, who, by the way, are composed, generally
speaking, of runaway slaves, who, after their work is done,
sally forth in the evening, by way of recreation, to try their
hand at highway robbery, do not confine themselves to robbing
travellers, but often attack the country houses, pillaging them
and murdering their inmates. A case in point occurred but a
few years since, of rather a peculiar kind, upon the premises of
an English surgeon, a Dr. Gallagher, who .had a hospital at a
place called Bella Vista, midway between Callao and Lima.
The doctor and his wife, who were residing there at that
time, had retired as usual, and faUen asleep, when they were
awakened by a flash of light in their room, and on opening
their eyes, to their dismay saw four or five men in their apart
ment, one of whom, ordering them to keep silence, under pain
of death, held a huge knife in readiness to enforce his com
mands, the others proceeding to rummage the apartment. Of
course the doctor and his good lady were struck dumb at first,

112 DR. GALLAGHER.
but gradually recovering from their fear, commenced revolving
in their minds what was to be done under the circumstances.
The lady, suddenly remembering that she had an elegant
diamond on her finger, had the presence of mind to let it slip
under the bedclothes, without the movement being discovered.
While the robbers were investigating the wardrobes, Mrs. G.
noticed that they were appropriating a valuable moire-antique
dress, which she valued very highly, so much so, that she
resolved not to let it go without a struggle ; addressing the
robbers, she said : " Gentlemen, will you not do me the favor
to leave me that dress, as it was a present, and I value it very
highly ?" Quite abashed at her assurance, they laid the dress
down, begging the lady to accept it. After peering into every
drawer and trunk in the room, they approached the bed, and
ordered the occupants to show their hands, and at once relieved
the doctor of a valuable ring, and were about taking one of
plain gold from the hands of his wife, when she again demur
red, on the plea that it was her wedding-ring, and they again
acceded to her request ; courteously bidding the worthy couple
good night, they left them to finish their nap, with the intima
tion, that any attempt at alarm would be visited with certain
death. Some twenty years ago, robberies were so very fre
quent, audacious and successful, that it became apparent
there must be a regularly organized gang, and that its leader
must necessarily be a man of great talent, and possessing
universal knowledge of all that was transpiring in the mercan
tile circles ; the evil became so great, that people were abso
lutely afraid to trust each other, each one looking with a
species of distrust upon his neighbor, so patent was it that
some one in whom all had confidence, was their betrayer.

WHO WOULD BELIEVE IT? 113
About this time, a merchant, who had considerable money in
his house, received an anonymous letter, informing him that on
the next night, his house would be robbed, and advising him
to call in his friends to assist him in defending it. The mer
chant at once called a secret meeting of the principal com
mercial men whom he knew he could trust, to devise the
necessary steps, when it was universally determined by all
present to volunteer to guard the house threatened, and the
arrangements were about being made, when a Scotchman, who
had previously said nothing, with a preliminary cough, arose
and said, " Gentlemen, I don't look upon this communication in
the light that you do ; I beheve it is a decoy, to concentrate
our attention upon this one house, in order to give them
an opportunity to rob some other establishment ; therefore, I
move that we all remain in our own houses, and prepare for
their defence." By dint of argument, all became convinced that
his was the proper view of the case, and a lucky thought
it was for the Scotchman, for about midnight, his own house
was attacked, and the assailants only driven off after a severe
fight, during which, however, they were successful in capturing
the notorious robber-chief, who proved to be neither more nor
less than a young American, a cashier in one of the largest
houses in the country, of whom no one had ever had the
slightest suspicion, he having always acquitted himself to the
satisfaction of his employers, and whose accounts and balances
had always been a model of correctness ; unknown to them,
however, he had been a heavy gambler, and had formed the
acquaintance of certain bad characters, who, in return for
information given them, kept him supplied with funds, and in
this way, for years, he had betrayed his friends. On being

114 BABEL.
arrested, he was cast into jail, and notwithstanding the efforts
of the American minister to prevent it (for his family's sake),
he was formally executed.
During all my own travels in Peru, I never was molested but
on one occasion. In returning from Lima to the port, in com
pany with three others, late one night, a party of horsemen
leaped the hedge some hundred yards in advance, and awaited
our approach ; simultaneously we drew our revolvers, and
dashing spurs into our horses' sides, rushed past them and
gave them a volley; never holding up till we reached Callao ; a
riderless horse galloped into Lima half an hour afterwards,
and a dead Zambo was found on the benches of the Alameda.
Who shot him, we did not know or care, but we kept our
own counsel, otherwise we might have passed a year in
jail. If there was a confusion of tongues at Babel, there is a
greater confusion of color and of race in Lima. Besides the
hordes of French, English, Germans, Italians, Greeks, and
Spaniards that throng the streets, there are at least twenty
different half-castes, that maintain as marked a distinction from
each other as do the natives of India. The Mulatto, the Mes
tizo, the Indian, theChino, the Chino bianco, the Cholo, the Cuar-
teron, the Zambo, and an infinity of others, all possess a certain
pride of caste upon which they plume themselves whenever the
occasion presents itself. Thus, the Mulatto will taunt the
Zambo with his blacker skin, though they may have been born
of the same father ; the Cholo will scornfully avoid the " Indio
briito," as he balls him, although to him he may bear the same
affinity as does the Mulatto to the Zambo. Individuals of
cither caste are frequently thus designated instead of being

poor Indian! 115
called by name, thus in calling your half-breed Indian servant
you would say : " come here, Cholo," or addressing a beautiful
woman in whom by long experience in the art, you can detect
the half-caste, you would say without giving offence, " good
evening, lovely Mestiza." The Oholos, a cross between the white
man and the Indian, perform as a general thing, the duties of
house servants, and are a lazy, inoffensive race ; the women,
some of them very beautiful, occupy no very high position in
the social scale, being generally the mistresses of the middle
classes. The Mulattoes are a very numerous class, and are gene-
erally occupied in shop-keeping — the females are also extremely
beautiful, and extremely frail. -The full-blooded Indians I
always looked upon with a sympathetic eye, for although so
many years have elapsed since their subjugation, they still seem
the rightful owners of the soil. Rather below the medium
height, they are exceedingly stout and athletic, with the heavy,
sullen look, characteristic of all the American aborigines ; they
seldom occupy any menial position for any length of time ;
soon tiring, they disappear, escaping to their homes in the
mountains. ¦ The ranks of the army are almost entirely sup
plied from them, and they make capital soldiers, being possessed
of great natural bravery, but unfortunately, their officers being
deficient in that article, they are not often led to the deadly
breach — poor devils I they seldom enlist of their own accord,
but are barbarously pressed into the service, torn away from
their families and sent down to the sea-coast, where they pine
and languish from home-sickness, and the enervating effects of
the climate. The press-gang is here to be seen in all its horror;
the poor Indian, little suspecting the cruel fate awaiting him,
is seized in his hut, or in his corn-field, and with his hands tied

116 LOS TORROS.
behind him, is set upon a horse and driven off, perhaps forever,
from wife, family, home, and all he holds dear !
What wonder, then, that his brow is dark and lowering, that
he wears au aspect of sullen misery and despair ?
There are large numbers of women-followers accompanying
the army, who appear to possess superhuman powers of endu
rance ; marching in the van, with their own wardrobes as well
as their husbands', their cooking utensils, and perhaps, a baby
or two, they unweariedly plod along, and reaching the halting-
place, without resting, build their fires and prepare their hus
bands' food ; thus day after day, week after week, they toil
over burning plains, mountain passes and frozen snows, always
the same patient enduring, and faithful beings.
The people of Lima are to be seen to the greatest advantage
when assembled to witness a bull-fight, in the spacious arena,
situated midway on the Alameda, perhaps the finest affair in
the world of its kind, and capable of containing ten thousand
spectators. The performances usually take place on Sunday afternoon,
and for an hour or two previously, the streets leading to it are
thronged with a motley crowd pouring thither, composed of
all ranks and conditions, some on foot, and others rolling along
in elegant equipages.
The scene presented within is a most brilliant one, magnifi
cently attired ladies, with brilliant jewels, seated in their lux
urious boxes, thousands of the lower orders, in their bright and
picturesque costumes, together with the gorgeous uniforms of
the president and his suite, while a fine band of music gives an
additional zest to the affair.
Suddenly the hum of ten thousand voices is stilled, a gate

LOS T O R R O S . 117
opens, and half a dozen fantastically dressed men, each with a
small red flag in his hand, rush in, and bow before the Presi
dent's box; following them, come mounted horsemen, armed with
long spears, and pennons flying, who after curvetting about the
ring, draw up in line, and then in rushes the bull, with a mad
dened, infuriated look, head down and tail in air ; suddenly he
pauses, and raising his head, gives a savage roar, and then
makes for the men in the ring ; they disperse in all directions.
He then dashes at the horses, whose riders with great dexter
ity avoid his attacks, irritating him, however, still more by
pricking him with their lances ; sometimes, however, the bull is
successful in putting in a blow with his horns, when he gores
the horse, and capsizing him, rolls him and his rider in the
dust. The footmen then approach and divert his attention,
and adroitly avoid his attacks by waving flags, which they hold
in their hands before his eyes, and as he makes at the flag,
they jump on one side, and escape collision. This goes oh for
some time, the men showing great address in evading his
attacks. The bull by this time becomes frantic, and his impotent rage
is fearful to witness, as with glaring and blood-shot eyeballs,
and foaming nostrils, he stands at bay, quivering in every joint,
and sending forth bellowings of anger and defiance. Armed
with small reeds, tipped with steel and filled "with combusti
bles, and ornamented with little flags, his persecutors now ap
proach him, and at every opportunity hurl at him one of these
little missiles, which piercing his flesh, explode with the concus
sion, and produce painful, smarting wounds, which increase
his frenzy, to an incredible degree. In vain he endeavors tc
annihilate his opponents ; rushing at one, he is pursued by

IIS MATADOR.
others," until paralyzed by rage, with lowering brows, he
warily watches his tormentors, and only attacks at intervals.
A flourish of trumpets, and in comes the matador, attired in
black velvet, after the style of Philip II. ; bowing to the presi
dent and the audience, he is received with thundering acclama
tions ; his esquire then hands him a long Damascus blade.
Examining it with critical care, he satisfies himself of its
temper, apparently perfectly unconcerned at the propinquity
of the bull, who presents a most threatening aspect ; in the
meanwhile, the others withdraw and leave to the matador the
field. Taking his position, he unsheathes his weapon and
awaits the charge. There is something majestic in the cool
indifference with which a single man, with a frail blade, awaits
the onset of an infuriated demon. Pawing the ground, and
sending forth roars of rage and agony, the bull measures the
distance between himself and his antagonist, and charging,
the earth fairly trembles with his violence. The matador
cooly poises his weapon, and with scarce an effort, it descends
with unerring certainty into the spinal marrow of the brute,
who, with an agonizing groan, sinks on his knees, the life blood
spirting from his mouth and nostrils, when after a few ineffec
tual efforts, he rolls over, and his glazed eyeballs, announce
his death. Thousands of vivas hail the successful matador,
and purses lined with gold, and boquets, fall in showers at his
feet. Another blast of trumpets, and four magnificently ca
parisoned horses are driven furiously around the ring ; suddenly
they halt before the carcass of the dead animal, and hooking
fast to it, draw it rapidly out of sight.
This scene is enacted over and over again, until half a dozen
bulls are slain ; most cruel sport, and the sympathies of Eu-

SANTA ROSA. 119
ropeans generally go with the bull. I, on several occasions,
both in Mexico, Manila, and in Peru, have seen men and horses
killed by the infuriated animal, and I must say that I never felt
much commiseration for them. One must admire the cool
bravery and skill of the matador, and the address and daring
of the picadores, but when he sees the agonized eye of the
bull in vain looking for sympathy, and hears his heart-rending
groans of despair, he finds his feelings enlisted on behalf of the
persecuted animal.
It is a gay scene to witness the exodus of the thousands
from the amphitheatre, including every class, from the president
to the lowest peon who grovels in the streets. Diamonds
and rags, delicate female lovliness and coarse flaunting courte
sans pour forth together : vehicles of all sorts await their for
tunate possessors, while battalions of elegant horses impatiently
curvetting, await their masters. Pouring out from the gates, the
masses disperse themselves along the magnificent arcades of the
Alameda, some sauntering along enjoying the exciting scene,
others resting upon the benches beside the river, watch the gay
cortege of horsemen and carriages filled with beauty and ele
gance, rolling along the drive.
The grand gala day of Lima is the celebration of the birth
day of Santa Rosa, its patron saint. She was born in 1586,
of poor parents, and while yet young, displayed uncommon
holiness, and did voluntary penance at the age of six years,
when she consecrated herself to God, and took oath of perpet
ual celibacy. At fifteen she was examined by theologians and
entered holy orders ; her life was most exemplary, and filled
with examples of devotion to the cause of Christ. She died in
the year 1617, and her obsequies were celebrated with great

120 GRAND PROCESSION.
pomp ; the archbishop and viceroy assisting. She was canon
ized in 1671, and the 26th day of August was fixed upon as her
festival, and it is celebrated in Lima by a grand procession ;
in the church of St. Domingo there is a fine marble statue of
her reclining alongside the altar. The whole town is in a state
of excitement — troops being marshalled — societies being assem
bled — males and females hurrying to the cathedral, where
high mass is celebrated before an immense assemblage, among
whom are the president and high officers of church and state.
The interior of the cathedral is magnificently decorated — altars
covered with gold and silver and diamonds — the walls adorned
with the richest drapery, with fringe and spangles of gold :
innumerable and variously colored wax tapers glow from mas
sive chandeliers. Priests clothed in their richest sacerdotal
robes, move slowly backward and forward to the lovely ca
dence of the grand old organ, whose tones are softened by a
flood of liquid female voices. On an elegant pedestal, hung
with garlands, is the heavenly figure of the saint, crowned with
a tiara of diamonds of fabulous value, robed in satin, sprinkled
with costliest jewels, holding in her hand a brilliant, sparkling
rose, composed entirely of diamonds.
Mass is then said, after which the procession is formed amid
the crash of artillery and the din of pealing bells, the order of
the procession being as follows :
Soldiers, bare-headed ;
Acolytes in surplices and red breeches ;
Novice, bearing a silver cross ;
Officers of colleges and students, robed in crimson ;
National deputies ;
Lawyers and magistrates ;

STILL THEY COME! 121
The President, with his staff;
Banner of the cross, borne by priests, followed by
Acolytes, singing;
Choiristers and musicians ;
Twenty virgins, dressed in white ;
Image of the Saint, surrounded by priests and bare
headed friars, accompanied by a body of
soldidrs ;
The Archbishop, under a silken canopy, borne by six
priests, each holding a silver staff.
FoUowing these come the persons composing the different
professions and trades, and bodies of troops with bands of
music, bringing up the rear guard : the houses in the streets
through which they pass, being decorated with elegant hang
ings, and festoons of gay flowers ; the whole atmosphere ring
ing with artillery and redolent of gunpowder, while the popu
lation follow " en masse."
The young ladies on a day like this appear " en grande
tenue," and beaux, got up within an inch of their lives,
promenade the streets, taking advantage of the opportunity
so seldom offered for ogling the beauties.
I LEAVK LIMA.
Gliding along the barren coasts of Peru, dreamily gazing at
the interminable chains of lofty mountains rising one above the
other — suddenly from out the clouds stands forth grim old
Chimborazo, his hoary head covered with the snows of centu
ries ; twenty thousand feet in air, yet so distant from us as
scarce to o'ertop the surrounding peaks of half his height.
Moving rapidly though noiselessly through the water, we
soon come up with the river Guayaquil, a noble stream, divid-
6

122 GUAYAQUIL.
ing the republics of Equador and Peru — at its mouth eight
miles in width, and bearing down a swollen current, discoloring
the sea for miles. Entering it, we breast the swift current
and, puffing away, leave behind us the island of Puna, and,
after six hours' steaming, find ourselves abreast the city of
Guayaquil, a town of considerable size and commercial import
ance. It presents a very pretty appearance as it runs strag
gling along the river's banks, faced by a fine stone quay
extending for a couple of miles, where each morning myriads
of canoes, laden with luscious fruits and other products of the
country, resort to dispose of their little cargoes ; thus giving it
an exceedingly lively and animated appearance.
The fruits of this province are superb; the orange and
banana here attain their highest perfection, while the Guaya
quil pine-apple is incomparable ; no fruit of the kind on earth
can equal it either in size or perfection of flavor.
The hat so widely known as the Panama hat, costing from
$2 to $150, is here manufactured. They differ from other straw
hats in being made of a single piece, and of great lightness and
flexibility. The plant from which they are made is the jipi-jape,
and looks like a palm ; the leaves are gathered before they
unfold, all the ribs and coarser veins being removed, and the
rest, without being separated from the stalk, is reduced
to thread. After exposure to the sun for a day or two, the
straw is tied into a knot, and immersed in boiling water until it
becomes white; this is then hung in a shady place, and
bleached for several days; the straw is then ready for use, and
made into cigar and card-cases, and put to innumerable other
uses. Hats are made on blocks placed between the knees,
requiring to be constantly pressed to the breast; the plaiting is

STRAW HATS. 123
exceedingly troublesome, commencing at the crown and ending
at the brim, requiring of course more or less time, according to
their fineness. These hats are universally worn on the coast
and in the West India islands; those generally used by the
higher classes costing from forty to sixty dollars.

CHAPTER VI.

PANAMA.

Panama — Its magnificent Bay, studded with bright Islets — Ancient
Appearance of the City — Sufferings of Emigrants from Fever, Cholera,
and Want — We retire to Flamingo Island, and there luxuriate on lus
cious Fruits — Take on board a horde of Passengers — A Description of
them — Continuous Sickness of the Passengers — Steamboat converted
into a gambling Hell — Burying a Man under Difficulties — Acapulco.
The voyage from Guayaquil to Panama is extremely uninterest
ing ; losing the trade wind, the heat becomes excessive, accom
panied by frequent and violent rain-squalls. Of whales there
are generally an abundance, of the sperm species, rolling lazily
along, spouting occasionally, and baring their grey old sides to
view. With this exception, there is no sign of life ; not a gull,
nor a porpoise, nor yet a flying-fish, and no sail ventures into
this windless region.
Swinging in our hammocks, and dreamily watching our
cigar smoke upward curling, we loll away the dreary day, wish
ing for our arrival at Panama.
On the morning of the  day of September, as the sun
arose, the island of Taboga, at the entrance of the harbor of
Panama, appeared in view ; and, on nearing it, the sun's oblique
rays, falling upon its wooded sides, enamelling its rich verdure,
portrayed as vivid a picture of high tropical beauty as ever the
124

TABOGA. VJib
eye rested upon. Rapidly coming up with it, and threading
our way through smaller, though not less beautiful islets, we
shortly opened the city of Panama. Letting go our anchor
within a couple of miles of the town, as the ship swung her head
to wind, we sat ourselves down and feasted our eyes upon the
lovely view spread before us.
With a lofty hiU for a background, clothed with an eternal
verdure, fresh and luxuriant, crowned with palms whose fea
thery branches gracefully and sadly waved against the sky,
lay the picturesque old city of Panama; a long Kne of rampart
— a graceful sea gate — a projecting bastion, tumbKngin ruins —
towers of graceful, though odd construction, feathery with
tropic verdure springing through every insterstice, and glisten
ing with the ornamental pearl-shells with which they were tiled
— irregularly built houses, dazzlingly white, and native huts
with high conical thatches, looking like immense wicker-baskets
— all these grouped among and peeping forth from a very
forest of banana and palm, formed an enchanting whole, and
delighted our eyes, which had been accustomed to the stiff
architecture and sparce vegetation of a temperate clime.
On our right hand was the beautiful little archipelago
formed by the islands of Perico, Flamingo, 0 toque, Taboguilla,
and Taboga, from the centre of which latter rises a hill of one
thousand feet, cultivated nearly to its summit, sending down
streams to the valleys, where, amidst the cocoanut, palm, and
tamarind trees, the native huts Ke nestKng.
The island of Flamingo is also lofty, conical in formation,
covered likewise with the generous luxuriance of the tropics.
The other islands are lower, but perfect gems of beauty, between
which are lovely, secluded little bays, whose wavelets ripple on

126 CELESTIAL P Y R O T E C H N Y .
their snow-white beaches, casting up shells most unique in form
and beautiful in color. To our left stretched away in the dim
distance ranges of hills half hidden by cloud and vapor, along
whose crests incessant lightnings played — connecting links of
the great mountain ranges of the Cordillera of the northern
hemisphere and the Andes of the southern.
Ours was the only ship in port, and the vast bay lay motion
less before us without a ripple, the long reef, stretching out
a mile and a half beyond the town, being marked by the
line of surf which lazily broke upon it, its low musical roar
relieving the unnatural stillness of the hour. As the sun rose
higher and higher the heat became intense, but towards one
o'clock, the clouds which had been gathering on the hill-tops
suddenly grew dense and black, and burst upon us with terrific
violence. The crashes and din of the thunder were awful, and
the vividness of the forked lightning as it played along the
crests of the hills, over the turrets and fortifications, almost
blinding; but the scene was sublime and impressive. In about
an hour's time the grand pyrotechnic display was concluded,.
when the clouds suddenly dispersed and the sun burst forth with
seemingly unwonted brilliancy. At sunset we went ashore to
take a look at the old place and hear the news from the United
States, for we had been some eleven months without letters.
The pull on shore was a very pleasant one ; a light westerly
breeze, cooled by the afternoon shower, filled our sail and sent
us merrily over the water, and as We glided along we momen
tarily discovered new beauties in the landscape. The rays of
the setting sun bathed the whole scene in her golden hue,
which was in fine contrast with the rich green of the vegeta
tion, glossy and dripping with, the rain. As our keel grated

PANAMA AMERICANIZED. 127
on the beach we jumped ashore, and passing through tne ram
part by the " Monk's Gate," we found ourselves in the principal
street of the town. Tall, balconied houses, whose blackened, dila
pidated appearance gave ample testimony of their age ; fine old
ruins, whose peculiar architecture showed them to have belonged
to a remote period, and evidently to have originally been in
tended for ecclesiastical purposes. Huge churches, monasteries
and convents, obstructed our view on every side, making us feel
that we were indeed, not only in a foreign land, but walking
among the relics of the past ; but although in a strange land,
we were evidently not among strangers. Hundreds of despe
rate looking men, armed with knife and revolver, were throng
ing the streets, whose "vernacular" announced them indu
bitably as Yankees. Over the doorway of almost every house
were signs in good old English, descriptive of the wares for
sale within, while through the open portals of many might be
seen the showy bar-room of our own country, fitted up with
all the tinsel of painting, mirror, and gilt with which they are
wont to decorate the rum-palaces of Yankee-land, while almost
every available apartment was filled with monte', roulette, and
faro tables, around which were crowds of betters, whose oaths,
exultant or otherwise, according to their luck, grated harshly
upon the ear.
The hotels and dwelling-houses were full to overflowing, and
every tenement was occupied. The hotels, if such they could
be called, were huge, old native houses, utterly uuadapted for
the purpose ; the barn-like rooms, damp, windowless, and over
run with vermin, looked more like prison vaults than sleeping
apartments, and instead of the weary traveller — half dead from
exposure and jaded with his long mule-ride across the isthmus —

128 IMPROMPTU HOTELS.
being assigned an apartment where he could retire to rest from
the fatigues of his journey, he was ushered into one of those
tomb-like rooms, and told to choose his bed from among some
fifty cots ranged along its walls, and in tiers throughout its
length — his dressing-room and toilet appointments being an open
corridor furnished with a gross of tin basins, any quantity of
filthy, brown soap, a huge sheet (for a towel), suspended on a
roller, and a cracked looking-glass. The feeding arrangements
as may be supposed, were utterly disgusting ; the table d'hote
served on long pine tables stained with grease, without cover
ing, on which were plates and dishes of every variety of form
and shade, and utterly uncleanly. The viands were of the
coarsest description, and served up in the filthiest style. After
some difficulty I made out to get a cot at the American Hotel,
situated in the principal street, and decidedly "the place."
As we entered, the supper-bell rang. After being nause
ated by a senna-like compound, the waiter called tea, and
having almost choked myself with a hard-boiled egg, the only
cleanly thing available, I drew my chair out on the balcony
and, lighting my cigar, gave myself up to revery.
My mind wandered back to the days of the Pizarros and of
Almagro, when Spain was in the zenith of her glory — when
Panama, the key to the Indies, was a bright jewel in her
diadem — when her officers, high in rank, presided in the coun
cils of that grey old town — when her tried veterans garrison
ed her towers, and mailed knights — the flower of European
chivalry — held gay tourney on her plains ; proud of her fame and
exultant in her untold wealth, Spain would then ill have brook
ed a stranger on her soil.
Alas, alas, for human foresight ! — howdifferent now ; where

THE PAST AND PRESENT. 129
crouch those mouldering ruins, blackened aud dank, by the
eternal rains and damps, and seething evaporations of this
decay-bearing climate, then proudly stood the embattled tur
ret, from whose height waved the rich and dreaded banner,
of Castile — along those tumbling arches, proud churchmen
with swinging censer led brilliant processions, amid the thun
ders of artillery, to do honor to some favored saint ; within
those mouldering walls, whose grated windows cause an instinc
tive shudder, mayhap many a writhing victim has abjured his
heretical belief ; on those over-hanging balconies, where in days
of yore many a lovely damsel has paced at vesper hour, ex
changing smiles with the gay cavaliers, as they on their chargers
pranced gracefully thro' the street, beneath — now throng drunk
en Californians, whose foul oaths and obscenities poison the sur
rounding atmosphere. Within that stately temple, rich in
lovely chefs-d'oeuvre of Moorish and Gothic art, beneath whose
roof many a swelling anthem of exquisite harmony has pealed —
now are tethered mules and cattle, and the very churches them
selves, only approached with reverential attitude by the natives,
now resound to the coarse laugh of the emigrant, as he lazily
lounges through their dark and solemn aisles, sneeringly derid
ing the kneeling devotee.
Saddened by such reflections, and disgusted with the uproar
iu the street below, I sought out my cot, and from sheer fatigue
was soon snoring in concert with my fifty room-mates, and after
a wretched night I arose at day-break and sallied forth.
Panama, before the discovery of gold, was a lazy old Spanish
town, with no commerce, and only awakened from her lethargy
by the periodical visits of the British steamer bringing treasure
from the south coast, and by an occasional passenger who in

130 woe is me!
haste to get to Europe, braved the dangers of the Isthmus
transit. Now all was life and animation ; the population of
the town was more than doubled by some thousands of Yankees,
awaiting conveyance to California ; having bought through-
tickets for California in the United States, in good faith, and
supposing that they would be at once forwarded on their arrival
here, they now, to their dismay, found that they had been mis
led, and that they would be obliged to wait months before they
could get a passage. The situation of these people was deplora
ble, many without means, in a deadly climate, and unable to
speak the language, with families of women and little children
dependent upon them ; exposure and unhealthy diet soon pro
duced their natural consequences, and the fatality among them
was awful — the cholera and native fevers vying with each other
in their ravages. As I walked the streets that morning, my
heart sickened within me ; fathers on their knees besought
me to use my influence with the agent, to get them a passage
for their families, and mothers held up their emaciated children,
with the seal of death upon their sallow faces, in dumb but
eloquent appeal — but alas ; I could not help them.
Finding that our steamer would be detained some fifteen or
twenty days, I at once went on board, glad to escape from
the horrors of that very charnel-house, polluted alike by deadly
miasmas and by human vice. Lifting our anchor, we sought a
more secure harbor under the lee of Flamingo, in one of those
secluded little nooks which abound in that locality.
On the southern extremity of the island of Flamingo, some
two hundred feet above the sea, stands a stone cottage of tropic
build, whose balconies overhang the bay, and through whose
halls the air gently circulates, forming a most cool and delight-

JOLLY. 131
ful retreat ; this, with the exception of a couple of native huts,
is the only house on the island, and being at that time unoccu
pied we took formal possession ; sending off the necessary sup
plies, with a few grass hammocks we proceeded to make our
selves comfortable.
Our life, as may be supposed, was not a very active one ; a
sea-bath on awakening, a cup of coffee and cigar, with a stroll
on the beach, or, spy-glass in hand, a climb up the hill for a
scan sea-ward, a loll in our hammock, with the late periodicals
within our grasp, a breakfast of fruit, in which the banana and
green cocoanut figured conspicuously, served by a troupe of
yellow damsels who acted as our caterers and femmesde-cham-
bre ; after breakfast a long siesta, then a shower-bath, the wa
ter, dipped from a cool fountain, thrown over our heads from
calabashes in the hands of the aforesaid damsels ; theu a
change of raiment and a pull off to the steamer for dinner ;
then a stretch shore-ward before the sea-breeze, from whence,
after hearing the gossip, we enjoyed a cool sail off to our castle
before the gentle land-wind ; this, with an occasional trip to
Taboga or the Pearl Islands, made up the history of our so
journ. Occasionally we spent a day ashore with some newly-
arrived friend from the " States," or in examining the " lions"
of the place ; but its unhealthiness and its infernal climate,
effectually deterred us from a longer stay.
Among the ruins of this dilipidated city, those of the Jesuit
College are the most interesting ; commenced in the year 1739,
it progressed but slowly until 1779, when the Jesuits were ex
pelled the country, and of course nothing further was done to
it, but it was allowed to fall into decay ; in the whole western
world there is probably no building so chaste and beautiful in

132 FLAT ARCH.
design, but, alas ! its courts are now occupied as garden spots
and parade grounds, while multitudinous creepers and broad
banana leaves conceal many a lovely relic of art ; over an
arched gateway, blackened by the rains of a century, can be
.descried the famous motto of the order: "In nomine Jesu
omne Genu flectatur." Could those grey old fathers rise from
their graves, and see these aisles desecrated by cock-fights and
circus riders, methinks their smooth faces, in spite of their ha
bitual calmness, would show signs of horror.
The crumbling walls and ruined arches of the Merced, St.
Augustine, and San Juan de Dios convents, straggling irregu
larly through the town, give it a most romantic and interest
ing, though sad appearance. Stumbling among some old rub
bish within a four-walled inclosure, filled up with banana,
orange, pomegranate and cocoanut trees, digging with pointed
sticks, searching for hidden architectural treasures, and occa
sionally striking them against some splendid old bells hanging
just clear of the ground, when, on raising our eyes, we disco
vered, to our astonishment, something which seemed to us
scarcely less wonderful than that architectural anomaly, " the
leaning tower of Pisa ;" it was a flat arch, with an almost im
perceptible curve of a span of forty feet ! The construction
was most peculiar, but the whole affair, though probably built
a hundred years back, was as firm as if of yesterday. There
probably is not at present living that architect who could make
its equal.
The vegetable world here flourishes in the richest and rankest
luxuriance ; the constant moisture and the fierce rays of the
sun, bring forward to maturity each seed and plant with won
derful celerity ; the products of the forest are absolutely mon-

FLOWER OF THE HOLY GHOST. 133
strous, as one may well conceive when he looks upon a native
canoe, of twelve tons burden, carved from a single tree.
Of flowers, the woods and swamps are filled with them, of
form most delicate and hue most gaudy ; each parasite, as it
winds its loving embrace round some tall tree, wreathes it with
tendrils rich in loveliest blossoms, while springing from the in
terstices of every ruined wall, shoot forth the " holy passion
flower," or the exquisite " flower of the Holy Ghost." This
most lovely and wonderful product of the floral kingdom, re
sembles closely the opening bud of the tube-rose, with its waxen
petal and polished green leaf ; pluck it — when, lo 1 within that
opening bud is a perfect representation of a dove, with wings
extended, just ready to take its flight, its graceful head perfect
in form, with eye and bill. A more complete "lusus natur-e"
never was looked upon. The cedron tree here flourishes, which
has a world-wide celebrity, from its possessing certain proper
ties which cure the bites of serpents ; the natives greatly es
teem it, always carrying with them a piece of its seed ; when
any one is bitten, a little mixed with water is applied ; or a few
grains in brandy are often taken internally with great success.
At this time the gold fever was at its height, and people
were absolutely mad to get to California, and tickets for
steamers expected to leave at an early date were sold at an
enormous premium ; there was as much excitement manifested
as at the New York Stock Exchange, and at noon the corners
and drinking shops were thronged to excess, and speculators
frantic. Shrewd Yankees, who held tickets for the first vessel
bound up, calculating that a month would not make much dif
ference, sold out at an advance of a cool thousand or so, and
pocketing the money, quietly bided their time. The excitement

134 CONSOLATION.
became so intense, that many did nothing but buy and sell
tickets on commission.
Fresh arrivals came pouring in, and each afternoon long
trains of the most wretched-looking people, bespattered and be-
drabbled, their hats slouched over their faces, and the steam
rising off their dank garments, mounted on mules hobbling and
stumbling, scarce able to drag themselves along, might be seen
entering the gateway over the drawbridge into the city. Poor
mortals 1 how I pitied them ! Jaded and worn, half dead
from exposure and fatigue, and with the seeds of cholera and
fever germinating within them, they were, many of them, lite
rally entering their tomb ; the flush of excitement which passed
over their livid faces as they dismounted amid the excitement
of the gathered throng, was only a last effort of nature ; many,
yes, many never descended those steps alive, which now, under
the vigor of excitement, they so manfully ascended ; cholera
and fever swept them off, unmourned and unrecognized. Many
a mother yet deplores an absent son ; many a wife, a missing
husband, whose unconscious remains, putrifying with fever,
were unceremoniously hurried forth at midnight and pitched
in some slimy pit, or into the swelling tide. Judge not, ye
wives — murmur not, ye mothers — who think yourselves aban
doned ; mayhap the dying words of that long-lost husband or
son may have been an agonizing petition to Heaven for your
protection. While we were lounging at the island and initiating ourselves
into the lazy habits peculiar to the climate, our agent was
ashore doing everything he could to expedite our departure,
and had succeeded in engaging some three hundred passengers
(more in truth than the vessel could at all accommodate, but

HO! FOR CALIFORNIA. 135
people bound to California were in nowise particular as to their
accommodations), and had made all the necessary arrangements
for the resumption of our voyage, when, after a month's
sojourn, we were informed that on the morrow we would be
once more on the move.
Next day, we unmoored our steamer, and leaving our quiet
little nook, hauled up from our anchorage, abreast the town
and proceeded to embark our passengers. Such a motley
looking set never before were seen, aU western men and princi
pally gamblers, the roughest, most uncouth lot of desperadoes
that ever climbed over a ship's side. Our steerage passengers
numbering about 150 belonged to that delectable class of men
called " Hoosiers," filthy and villainous-looking to a man, with a
fair sprinkling of women and children — pleasant prospect for
the remainder of the voyage.
As may be imagined, three hundred passengers and their
luggage, and sufficient to feed them for twenty-five days, with
as much fuel as it was prudent to put on board, our steamer
was pretty well down in the water, so much so indeed that
when I embarked the last batch of passengers from my boat, I
stepped from her gunwale to the vessel's deck without the least
effort ; and as I did it I made up my mind that in case of a
gale it would go hard with us.
The scene that presented itself on the next morning, as I
roused out of my bunk, beggars description, there were of course
not berths for more than half the passengers, and every availa
ble space was occupied by miserable looking devils, many of
whom were in the agonies of sea-sickness, and who, rolled up
in their blankets, were retching and blaspheming in the most
horrible manner, while others were tossing and burning under

136 PLEASANT STYLE OF LIVING.
the first symptoms of Panafha fever, then beginning to make
itself manifest ; poor little children were rolling around indis
criminately among loose carpet-bags and bedding, while their
mothers lay groaning beside them. Outside the saloon, the
gangways were filled up with luggage, stores, and fuel, aud the
wind, blowing a gale, had raised a sea which, occasionally break
ing aboard, kept everything afloat ; the long dining-saloon on
the promenade deck was likewise appropriated by the sick and
sleeping, the floor and tables presenting apparently inanimate
masses wrapped up in that everlasting accompaniment of the
western traveller — the blue blanket. Fore and aft the ship,
everything looked woe-be-gone and uncomfortable, while sea
ward the prospect was quite as unpromising : the sky looked
black and angry, the rain drove by in violent squalls and the
gale evidently increasing, God help us I thought, as I looked
to windward ! Anything like regularity in serving meals to
such a crowd, or in such weather was impossible; in fact, often
times the whole cabin dinner as it left the galley was seized in
transitu, and carried off in triumph by the steerage passengers.
The scenes enacted at table were brutal beyond description,
and fights and brawls were generally the accompaniments of
every dinner; but I having a friend at court in the shape of the
head-steward, managed to fare pretty well. By dint of con
fining myself to my room and through the aid of some interest
ing books I managed to pass the time.
The weather for the first ten days was terrible, it blew a con
stant gale, the sea-sickness was universal, while the Isthmus fever
was making sad havoc among our number ; day after day some
poor fellow gave up the ghost, and wras unceremoniously hurried
over the side, oftentimes without even the formality of a prayer.

GAMBLING MADE EASY. 137
Well I remember, one afternoon during the height of the
gale, as our bell tolled forth its mournful summons to bury the
dead, picking my way through the prostrate forms of many
poor wretches, and in company with a dozen others, finding
myself on the forward deck to assist in the ceremony ; the
corpse, sewed in a hammock, was just ready to launch overboard,
while we, uncovered (in the blinding storm), were listening to
the beautiful service of the English ritual, when suddenly a
tremendous sea struck the ship and in an instant, every soul of
us went sprawling down to leeward. Half-stunned with the fall
we lay struggling with each other, with the corpse in our midst,
until we could recover ourselves. That was the last of the burial-
service. As we got into better weather and smoother seas,
our delectable fellow passengers emerged from their lairs and
then commenced such a saturnalia as is not often enacted on
the ocean.
Drinking and gambling became the order of the day, and
from early morning, till late at night, nothing was to be heard
but the fierce oaths of the gambler, or the ravings of the
drunkard. Our long dining-tables during the intervals of ser
ving the meals were occupied by roulette tables, faro banks,
and by parties gambling in every known game; fights of course
were frequent, but fortunately none terminated fatally.

CHAPTER VII.

CALIFORNIA.

We arrive at San Francisco — First Impressions — Dreadful Winter —
Fires — Murders and Gambling — Leave for the Diggings — Are over
taken by a Flood at Sacramento — Funny Scenes — Leave for the Upper
Country — Scare the Landlord of Nocola's Rancho — Tramp into the
Interior — Remarks about that Section of Country — Go to the Southern
Mines — Get Sick — Leave for Home — Take passage in the Steamer
Tennessee — Pleasant Companions — Panama again — Delight of Trip
across the Isthmus in the Rainy Season — Arrive in New York — Leave
New York in a little Brig bound round Cape Horn — Some remarks
touching the Intellectual Improvement of our Merchant Marine, mainly
due to Lieut. Maury — Arrive in Mexico after a Seven Months' Voyage.
The twelfth day brought us into Acapulco, where we remained
some fourteen hours, taking in coal and fresh provisions. It
would be more than a "twice-told tale" to recount the out
rages committed by the passengers, while on shore, upon each
other or upon the natives ; sufficient to say, that at midnight
following the day of our arrival, we again got under weigh,
heading up for San Francisco, off which port we arrived on the
— th day of October, without further incident worth record
ing, after a voyage of upwards of two hundred and fifty days !
As we steamed in through the open portals of the " Golden
Gate," my own impressions, and probably those of every man

THE GOLDEN GATE. 139
aboard that ship, were of the same indescribable nature. They
must have been somewhat akin to those experienced by Cortez
and his followers, as the rich and beautiful panorama of the
valley of Mexico and her capital, dazzling in all the splendor
and magnificence of Aztec wealth, burst upon their astonished
vision ; in it they saw the realization of all their ambitious
dreams. Our dreams, too, were in process of realization. The
bourne for which we had so long been struggling was gained
at last, and the land for which we had all sacrificed so much
— for which for months we had panted — was now spread before
our eyes. This, however, was no time for analyzing our feelings,
and we soon became engrossed in what was passing around us.
Skirting the barren sand-hills on the southern side of the
bay, we rapidly shot in among the shipping, which, to the
number of hundreds, lay moored off the city ; and coming-to
within a few lengths of the shore, we let go an anchor where
were then three or four fathoms of water, but where is now
the very business centre of San Francisco. We were immedi
ately boarded by hundreds of people who had lined the shore,
to see us come in. Indeed it was a sight worth seeing, to
witness the entry of an American river steamer into the harbor
of. San Francisco after a voyage of eighteen thousand miles I
and proudly suggestive of the invincible energy of American
enterprise. Many were the congratulations which we received
from friends who had given up all hopes of ever seeing us
again, and many the cordial shake of the hand from strangers,
in admiration of what they were pleased to term our pluck, in
trusting ourselves on such a voyage in such a machine.
Our first inquiries were, of course, as to the state of affairs
in California ; whether gold was plenty ? if people were making

140 PARKER HOUSE.
their fortunes as rapidly as ever ? etc., etc., etc., to all of whicl
questions we received answers most favorable ; and most mar
vellous stories were bandied from mouth to mouth, which to
us, seemed more exaggerated than fiction itself, but which
were, generally speaking, true ! The exlcitement which every
one whom we saw appeared to be under, rapidly communicated
itself to ourselves, and appeared not only to possess animate,
but inanimate things also. Houses appeared in the very act
of rising without visible human agency, and sides of hills, pre
senting only a few hours before a bare and barren look, now
were white with tents, hastily erected by some recently disem
barked company. Another notable feature was the manifest
desire of all respectable people to present as ruffianly an appear
ance as possible ; and although the weather, on landing, was
intensely hot, yet every one whom we met was enveloped in
red flannel, high boots and monkey-jackets, while the lower
classes seemed to think filthiness in personal appearance a
requisite of respectability. The very demon of gambling
seemed to have been let loose ; every house, every available
apartment was appropriated by these desperadoes, and every
body appeared frantic for a chance to be swindled. The
Parker House, the general rendezvous, and where every fresh
arrival went to meet their friends, was the grand rallying
point of the gamblers, and their tables, piled up with gold, in
vited their victims, and here many a youthful adventurer, fresh
from the pure and chaste atmosphere of home, in quest of friendly
faces, innocently has entered, bewildered by the glare reflected
back from many mirrors, discovering to his astonished gaze
gaudy paintings of vilest obscenity, abandoned women decked
off in tawdry tinsel, whose debauched countenances caused

SAN FRANCISCO. 141
involuntary shudders of loathing to creep over him ; his ears
saluted by instrumental music which crashed through the din
of wrangling oaths and the chink of coin, his every breath
inhaling a dense atmosphere laden with the fumes of liquor
and tobacco, till becoming stupified with its novelty, and
familiarized with what was passing around him, he has gra
dually succumbed to the seductive influence of the game.
It would be a work of supererogation to attempt a descrip
tion of the state of things in California during the fall of the
year 1819, or the winter of 1850. So many thousands of let
ters, books, and paragraphs, have already appeared on the
subject, that the stirring scenes of those days are daguerreo-
typed ou the mind of every intelligent reader.
I remained at San Francisco during that terrible winter,
and suffered, and, like Mark Tapley, was jolly amid the deso
lation caused by fire, flood, and disease. I saw the embryo city
swept off by the never-to-be-forgotten conflagration of Decem
ber, 1849; I saw sickness and death from pure want in the midst
of that golden city; I saw men bleeding and gasping fresh from
the assassin's knife, and highwaymen and murderers hanged by
an indignant populace. During my stay, too, the members for
the first California legislature were elected, and I saw them
start off for the seat of government at San Jose, in the little
steamboat " Mint " (scarcely larger than a wash-tub), and
watched her from the heights as she battled with a furious
gale, making such bad weather of it, that for a long while it
seemed doubtful whether or not she would not founder with all
her precious freight.
After a dreary, stormy winter, such as had never before been
known, in the month of March the rains ceased, and the dark

142 SYMPTOMS OF A FLOOD.
clouds which for weeks and weeks had hung over us like a pall,
suddenly dispersed, and, like a curtain drawn, discovered the
beautiful azure sky of California.
With the bright sunbeam came renewed hope, and thou
sands who had been eking out a dead-and-alive existence, with
loss of energy, and careless of the future, felt its genial influ
ence, and cheerily buckled ou their armor for the fight.
During the winter I visited the city of Sacramento. My.
journey was undertaken during the period of the heaviest rains,
and I arrived there only on the evening previous to the disas
trous flood, which will never be forgotten by the early settlers.
The waters, which had been very high previously, at this time
gave indications of overflowing the river banks, and as the
streets of the town were, as a general thing, much lower than
the natural levee, it became apparent to all that a farther rise
would be most calamitous, and attended by the most fatal con
sequences, if immediate precautions were not taken to secure
life and property. At the moment of my landing all was bustle
and confusion. The female portion of the population were
being transferred to the vessels lining the river's banks, and
the men were following suit, or betaking themselves to the
upper stories of their houses (when they had any). A number
of men, women, and children, however, preferred taking refuge
in the church, a little wooden building which had lately been
erected, trusting for safety to the sanctuary.
By this time the torrent had burst its natural barrier, and
rushed through the streets with great fury, the whole country,
as far as the eye could reach, being under water. Being in
formed that there were several families who had deferred seek
ing safety until the height of the water had rendered it impos-

FLOOD IN EARNEST. 143
sible for them to do so unaided, I, in company with some four
or five others, jumped into a whale-boat and started to the
rescue. Pulling up through Jay street, we found it required
all our strength to make any headway, so-strong was the cur
rent in the streets. In turning a corner we would frequently
be swept back a long distance in spite of our utmost efforts;
we succeeded, however, in rescuing all who required our aid.
Still the water continued rising, and the howling storm and
rushing flood, and the black night without, caused an involun
tary shudder as the thought suggested itself of the possibility
of some of our friends being exposed to its pitiless fury. With
these thoughts uppermost in our minds, a party of us sat in the'
snug cabin of a vessel moored to the bank, anxiously speculat
ing as to the result of the affair. Thus the night wore on, none
caring to retire amid this uncertain state of things. A little
after midnight we were startled from our reverie by the tolling
of a bell. There was but one bell in Sacramento, and that
hung in the belfry of the church where the women and children
had taken refuge. In a moment fifty stout arms were pulling
away for dear life through the blinding storm and pitchy dark
ness. Reaching the church, we found that it had floated from
its foundation, and was in imminent danger of capsizing, or of
being carried off into deep water. Filling our boats with
frightened women and children, we paddled back to the ships,
stiff with cold and half perished with exposure.
For days the whole city was under water, and business of
course suspended; even after the flood had in a measure sub
sided, it was a long time before the streets were clear of water,
and for weeks scows were used at the crossings, and for trans
porting goods. The lower stories of the greater part of the

144 THE WATERS SUBSIDE.
buildings being submerged, the upper ones were occupied, and
the only mode of egress was of course through the upper win
dows. It was a comical sight to see housekeepers and store
keepers kicking their heels out of their second story windows,
or hailing a scow to take them to dinner (all at that time dining
at hotels). I remember one day visiting a friend in his sky-
parlor, and while gracefully occupied in swinging my legs out
of his window, commenting upon the state of affairs generally,
we espied a scow floating leisurely along, propelled by an indi
vidual whose countenance was somewhat familiar. This person
occupied a boat of the very smallest dimensions, in which was
placed apparently all his earthly goods, viz., a chest, a pair of
blankets, and several old boots. He himself, being a man of no
small proportions, together with his plunder (as the trappers
have it), completely filled the little shaKop, making it appear a
part of himself. As he neared us we recognized a Philadelphia
acquaintance, " Dick E." by name. The last time we had
seen him was in the guise of an exquisite, promenading Chest
nut street. Shouting to him to heave-to, we hailed him as to
whence from and whither bound, begging to know his longi
tude; but poor Richard was inconsolable. He had been
drowned out of house and home, and was, with his available
assets, on his way to the San Francisco steamboat.
Being anxious to visit the northern mines, I started off one
fine morning, in company with a friend, in the little " Law
rence," a stern-wheel boat of the smallest imaginable dimen
sions, bound to Marysville, and scarcely larger than a ship's
longboat ; she was crowded to excess with passengers and
freight. Indeed there was scarcely standing room for us. The
day was lovely, but although the rains had ceased, the floods

NICHOLAS RANCH. 145
had not subsided ; as far as the blue mountains bounding the
horizon, the whole country was submerged, presenting in
appearance one vast lake ; a few trees here and there marking
the river's course. Onward we went, puffing and paddling, our
only amusement an occasional shot into a flock of duck or
geese, who ventured too close, for, like the dove from the
ark, they were in search of where to rest their feet; and being
evidently unacquainted with the genus steamboat, mistook it
for terra firma, but soon found that they were jumping out of
the water into the frying-pan. As darkness set in, we held up,
and made fast to a tree, at a place called Nicholas' Ranch, an
original farmhouse, situated on a high bluff above the flood.
The building, a huge Dutch farmhouse, with an immense
kitchen and a yawning fireplace, filled with blazing logs, large
enough to roast an ox entire.
Rushing in without ceremony, we spied, by the flickering
light of the fire, a long table loaded down with smoking joints
of elk and bear meat, with the other et-ceteras accessory to a
western table. At once the attack commenced, and was vigor
ously sustained, till, wearied and surfeited, one after another
fell over upon his blankets next the fireplace and instanta
neously began to snore. Picking out a soft spot, I followed
their example, and drawing my blankets closely around me, I
was quickly snoring an accompaniment. Soon after midnight,
from the effects of my hearty repast, I was seized with a severe
indigestion, which brought on a nightmare, and I commenced
shouting murder at the top of my voice. In an instant, a
hundred men were on their feet, with knife unsheathed and
pistol drawn, all staring wildly and inquiring the cause of the
riot. Scarcely had the sounds passed my lips before I was
7

146 DER TUYVEL..
aware of what had occurred, but I prudently kept my own
counsel and joined in with the rest in anxious inquiries as to
the origin of the disturbance ; and to this day those sleepy
miners have no idea of what waked them. Old Nicholas, the
Dutch landlord swore it was " der tuyvel."
This rancho is situated near the junction of the Sacramento
with the Feather River. At their confluence, leaving the
former, we went puffing away up the latter, cheered with tho
prospect of reaching Marysville in the afternoon. This river's
banks were lined with trees, from the feathery appearance of
whose leaves it derives its name. The effect against the clear
blue sky was very beautiful and graceful, the light waving
foliage having precisely the effect of expanded plumage.
Had it not been for the trees, we would not have been able
to have determined the channel of the river ; for, for leagues
on every side, stretched away the water.
A very funny incident occurred in reference to this. The
pilot of a small steamboat, drawing but little water, and bound
to one of the up-country settlements, finding that he could
shorten his trip some sixty or a hundred miles by taking advan
tage of the flood, abandoning the river and cutting across the
country, resolved to make the trial. For the first sixty miles
he succeeded admirably ; but an accident happening to the
machinery, a delay of twenty-four hours was unavoidable, but
" miserabih diclu," when the repairs were completed, the waters
had receded, and the economical pilot found himself, with his
steamboat, in the interior of a wild country, from thirty to
forty miles from any water !
Arriving at Marysville, we found a city consisting of a dozen
or so tents, and Nye's ranche house, a long ad&be building,

MARYSVILLE. 147
which had been erected several years before. The site of the
town was on a high bluff, sufficiently elevated to be out of the
reach of inundations, and said to be one of the healthiest
places in California. At the time of my visit, the idea of
locating a town had only recently suggested itself, and the
originators were most desirous to induce settlers, and to interest
all travellers in the undertaking. To us it seemed absurd, the
idea of valuing lots in that mud-hole at from one hundred to a
thousand dollars. Many inducements were held out to me to
take an interest here ; the most liberal terms being offered me
by one of the principal proprietors, a New York lawyer, which,
had I accepted, would have given me an independent fortune ;
but my lucky star was not in the ascendant.
Rolling up our blankets, after a not very comfortable night
spent in Marysville, in a muddy tent, we strapped them on our
shoulders, and started off on a tramp through the mining
districts. We proposed making our first halt at a station ten miles
distant, and there to remain that night. Right manfully we
buckled to our work ; over hill and swamp we went, enjoying
the elasticity of the air, and the beauty of the natural scenery ;
the wild flowers blooming in the early spring, sent up a deli
cious perfume, and the undulating country, carpeted with softest
turf and besprinkled with the California oak, recalled the parks
I had wandered over only a few years before in Staffordshire
and Devonshire ; while across our path would occasionally
bound a deer, as if to keep up the illusion. Little heeding
time or fatigue, onward we plodded, admiring all we saw, until
suddenly meeting a horseman, and inquiring our way, we were
informed that we had pursued a wrong direction, being at least

148 MY FIRST TRAMP.
twenty miles distant from our destination. By way of paren
thesis, it might be well here to observe that this was my first
experience in pedestrianism, while my companion was celebrated
for his walking feats.
As may be imagined, the horseman's information was not
agreeable to me, at least ; for, although I had not previously
felt any fatigue, the very mention of a twenty-mile walk pro
duced a fainting sensation. Tired and hungry, it seemed
impossible that I could walk half the distance. There was no
help for it, however ; my companion would not listen to my
proposal of throwing myself under the first tree, and starting
again in the morning. He was inexorable. So, at it we went,
iny blankets, weighing only ten pounds, seemed a ton upon my
shoulders, and my shoes chafed and blistered my feet, as, mile
after mile, I dragged myself along — nothing but the bracing,
invigorating air of California carried me through it. Late
at night we came upon our station ; when, pitching my
blankets under a wide-spreading tree and throwing myself
upon them, in a moment I was unconscious, fatigue having
deadened even my craving for food.
Next day, stiff and sore, I refused to move, much to the dis
gust of my companion, who was provokingly fresh, but who, by
way of keeping his hand in, walked off some dozens of miles,
and brought back a saddle of venison for our supper.
On the following day, however, shouldering my traps, I
jogged on beside my companion for some twenty miles, and
halted in the evening at Rose's bar, with scarcely a sensation
of fatigue, so rapidly does one become accustomed to this sort
of thing. At the first set-out the fatigue is seriously distress
ing, but after a few days one falls into a regular gait, which

I KEEP A SHOP. 149
can be kept up for many hours without tiring. Many a man
in California could step off his thirty miles, day in and day out,
while there were men who could walk their forty miles without
making much of it, but they were possessed of extraordinary
powers. Visiting all the principal diggings in' the northern mines,
and penetrating almost to the Sierra Nevada, I retraced my
footsteps, and, late in May, found myself again in San Fran
cisco. Arranging my business, I proceeded to Stockton, and from
thence into the southern mines, where, establishing myself in a
store made of four upright posts and covered with boughs, I,
in company with a cousin, proceeded to retail dry goods and
groceries to needy miners.
Our residence was at the city of Columbia, then containing
two or three thousand inhabitants ; but one fine morning
better diggings were found, and before night there were not
ten people left in the place. So perforce we pulled up
stakes and went off too.
Attacked by a nervous affection, brought on by anxiety and
irregular mode of life, late in the summer of 1850, I left the
southern mines, and going down to San Francisco, embarked
in the steamer Tennessee for New York.
Depressed in spirits, I hardly took the trouble to notice
who were to be my fellow passengers ; indeed I scarcely left
my room until we had been several days at sea. On emerging,
however, from my cabin, I found that there was a crowd of
people on board, including several ladies on their way to the
East. Among the passengers were Commodore Jones and suite,

150 AGAIN AT SEA.
beside several other navy officers, who were going home on
leave. Having previously known these gentlemen, and becom
ing acquainted with the ladies, we formed a merry party, and
fifteen days consumed in the voyage to Panama glided quickly
away. My health gradually improved under these social in
fluences, and before our journey was half completed, my spirits
were as light as those of any one of that gay coterie.
We found old Panama just as picturesque, just as hot, and
just as filthy, as we had left it one year before. There were
more niggers, to be sure, and fewer swaggering Yankees, but
with that exception, I saw no particular change.
It had not forgotten to rain, that was very certain ; indeed
our arrival was celebrated with a deluge which, had it con
tinued forty hours, would have floated old Panama off its
foundations, and I am afraid that there would have been
among all its inhabitants no good Noah to have built an ark — ¦
in fact, I should'rather have been excused from being a pas
senger, if male and female of every different species that exist
on the isthmus must necessarily have become my compagnons
du voyage.
Our anticipations of being obliged to imitate that very re
spectable old gentleman, Mr. Noah, were suddenly cut short
by a cessation of the celestial fire-works, and a moderation in
the fall of water, and presently a very elegant rainbow made
its appearance, reproachfully gazing upon us and dispelling our
fears. We did not anticipate a very comfortable passage across the
isthmus, but little did we imagine the annoyances, delays and
dangers to which we were to be subjected in the transit.
Aiter a detention of a week in Panama in making the ne-

A PREDICAMENT. 151
cessary arrangements for mules for the coveyance of ourselves
and luggage, we at last got under weigh, our train consisting
of some seventy animals, mounted on thirty of whose backs
were male and female passengers — and a picturesque looking
group we formed.
In anticipation of heavy rains, we were enveloped in the
most grotesque looking india-rubber garments ; the ladies
coming out particularly strong in the variety of their dread-
naught costumes.
No sooner were we fairly started than the heavens opened,
and its very , flood-gates seemed to have broken loose ; for
hours, soaked and bespattered with mud, we toiled over broken
roads, until at last reaching the borders of a mountain tor
rent, which in ordinary times a mere brook, was now a swol
len river; we were told by our guides that we must halt, as a
passage for that day, at least, would be not only unsafe, but im
possible. From sympathy with the deplorable situation of the ladies,
we proposed going back to Panama, not knowing how long we
might be detained here in this wretched swamp, without the
vestige of a habitation ; but to our dismay we were informed
that the streams in our rear were likewise too much swollen to
admit of a retreat. This was a pretty predicament ; not a
sign of a human habitation — a furious deluging rain, and a
party of forty people without provisions ; for the male portion
of the party it was bad enough, but for the delicate women it
was embarrassing and distressing.
After a long search we succeeded in finding a shed — a roof
upon poles — and taking formal possession, we proceeded by
means of our luggage to inclose it in a measure, so as to keep

152 PIC-NIC IN A MUD-HOLE.
out the storm, and some of the party having hammocks, we
swung them for the ladies, thus keeping them from off the
damp earth ; reconnoitering the vicinity, we discovered some
native huts, and at once pressed their occupants into our ser
vice as foragers, and by dint of threats and dollars, succeeded
in getting a good supply of provisions ; the ladies suffered ex
tremely, neither did the gentlemen particularly enjoy this pic
nicking, but there was no remedy. Three mortal days did we
exist in this wretched hovel, but on the fourth the rains ceased,
when dragging ourselves out of our mud-hole, cold and stiff,
we mounted our animals once more, and slowly stumbled
through muddy sloughs, deep ravines, and over broken rocks,
the only variety of the road being from bad to worse.
The sufferings of the ladies may be imagined, as one moment
saturated with a pouring rain, and 'the next suffocated with a
burning sun, they clambered up the precipitous mountain side,
or urged their mules through miles of liquid mud and swamp.
I had one young lady under my charge, who in spite of all her
womanly courage, several times fairly gave omt ; once the poor
thing was thrown head-long into a stream, by the stubbornness
of her animal ; at another, having stuck fast in a mud-hole,
she had to be lifted, and carried bodily, a distance of twenty
yards, to terra firma.
On the fifth day from Panama, we arrived at Cruces ; a
filthy, wretched negro village, at the head of canoe navigation,
on the Chagres River, and were informed for our consolation,
that the steamer for New York had already left Chagres, and
that there would be no opportunity again in ten days. What
to do we did not know, a week's residence in a negro settle
ment, which at this season was half under water, and whose

0 R U 0 E S . 1 53
habitations of straw and bamboo, looked like immense bee
hives, was not very inviting — the alternative, a ten days' sojourn
in Chagres, whose climate was absolutely deadly, and whose
population, outlaws to all decency, was made up of thieves,
robbers and assassins, with a sprinkling of Jamaica, and
Carthagenian niggers 1
We determined to remain where we were. For seven days
it poured without intermission, so of course we could not stir
outside of our wicker baskets. Inside, we had recourse to all
imaginable modes of killing time, but with small success. The
atmosphere, heavy and dank, weighed upon our spirits, and
gave us all a terrible fit of the " blues ;'' one great incentive to
exertion, was the desire of keeping clear of the centipedes
tics, and pique's which abounded in these huts ; by one species
or other of these insects, some one of us was constantly at
tacked, when all the rest would assist in relieving him.
On the eighth day of our suffering, having chartered canoes for
the purpose, we embarked on the swollen Chagres for the port.
The morning was lovely, the rains having apparently sub
sided for our benefit, and in high spirits we stepped aboard of
our "original" conveyances, with the hopes of reaching our
destination that night.
Our vessel was an immense dug-out, thirty feet in length, by
six in breadth, the whole affair surmounted by an arched roof,
made of bamboo, and thatched with palm leaves, thus forming
beneath it a sort of cabin, through which a pleasant breeze
circulated. Having stowed our provisions to our liking, and
lighting our cigars, we proceeded to ensconce ourselves aboard
the ark.
Our crew consisted of five strapping Carthagenian niggers,
7*

154 CHAGRES RIVER.
all but one of whom, having a sovereign contempt for dress,
were stark naked, while the fifth, the patron or captain, was
arrayed in a broad-brimmed straw hat, in the possession of
which he considered himself dressed; his part of the performance
was to steer the bungo, and it was a most comical sight to see
him perched up upon the high stern smoking in solemn grav
ity ; the other niggers were rowers, but there was no call for
oars during our voyage, as the swollen stream carried us
along as quickly as we dared go.
The voyage down the river was one splendid monotony ; its
banks heavily curtained with verdure, lined with gigantic trees,
interlaced with parasitical plants entwining themselves from
trunk to trunk, and from branch to branch, until forming an
impenetrable jungle, beautiful in its coloring and shade, and
mysterious in its intricacy.
Clouds of parrots of the richest plumage shot screaming
among its leafy bowers, monkeys leaped from branch to branch
of the tall palm trees, and alligators splashed heavily from the
green banks into the muddy stream.
Drifting quickly down with the strong current amid alter
nate sunshine and shower, we gazed with pleasurable awe upon
the mighty effort of nature in her wanton display — the effect
of the sunshine bursting from behind the great inky clouds,
and casting its bright glance on the dripping foliage and
peeping into the deepest recesses of the morass, was fine
indeed. Occasionally shooting around an angular point, we would
suddenly come upon a little village peeping from the wilder
ness ; scarcely distinguishable, however, were the bamboo huts,
from their similarity to the surrounding foliage. These houses

CHAGRES. 155
are usually built upon long poles sunk in the ground, the first
floor being at least ten feet from the earth, and the only mode
of obtaining access to the domicil by means of a notched
pole, which serves as. a ladder. The motive in building these
houses so high from the ground, is to keep them free from the
humidity of the earth, and out of reach of the thousands of
venomous reptiles which abound in the jungle.
As night approaches the air becomes illuminated with enor
mous fire-flies, and the deathlike stillness now and then broken
by the dismal roar of wild beasts.
Before midnight we reached our destination, thus making
the distance from Cruces to Chagres — about ninety miles — in
fifteen hours, where only a few months before I was eight days
in ascending the same distance 1
Chagres was certainly the most villainous place that I ever
did see, and proverbially the unhealthiest place in the world,
and nobly has it sustained its reputation, for I verily believe
that two out of three, at the least calculation, who visited it
were taken ill with the local epidemic, and once attacked with
it, it was very apt to prove fatal.
Chagres is an old Spanish port, with a huge fortress splen
didly located on the brow of a lofty promontory. This for
tress was considered impregnable in the time of the Spaniard,
but since the revolution, has fallen into decay, and is now
rarely ever garrisoned — the only testimony of its former glory
being some elegant, old brass guns of ancient date. The pro
montory overhangs the mouth of the river, and on a little
plateau at its feet, lies the old town, a mere collection of
bamboo huts ; its inhabitants a mongrel breed between the
African and Indian. On the opposite side of the stream is

156 A DELIGHTFUL RESIDENCE.
situated the American town, consisting of a couple of dozen or
so of white wooden houses, all of which are either hotels or
drinking houses. The hotels were curiosities in their way, the
accommodations consisting of one huge dining-hall, ornamented
with greasy tables, on whose bare pine planks were served the
coarsest of fares in the filthiest of styles.
Of sleeping apartments there were none, the nearest
approach to them being an immense room or dormitory, fitted
up with bunks or berths in lieu of bedsteads, and here every
one, whether gentle or simple, must of necessity ensconce him
self. The denizens of this delightful city were in keeping with
it — made up of the very lowest and vilest wretches from the
purlieus of New York and New Orleans, of Jamaica and Car
thagenian negroes, and of a sprinkling of desperadoes from the
different West Indian islands ; these gentry maintained them
selves, some by boating the thousands of passengers that
weekly came ashore from the different steamers up the river,
others by gambling, and the rest by robbing and murdering all
who fell in their power. There was no law, no restraint, and
all decent people felt that their only safety lay in the pistol
and knife in their belt — murder and robberies were of not daily
but hourly occurrence.
The ladies of our party were quartered in the private room
of the landlord, while the gentlemen occupied the grand
dormitory, in common with a hundred cut-throats and assas
sins. One night I was awakened by the rattling of metal, and on
looking from my bunk, saw, in the moonlight, a couple of
fellows breaking open a trunk ; in a moment a pistol was
drawn, and several shots were fired in quick succession within

SHARP PRACTICE. 157
a few feet of us — then all was quiet, but constantly, during the
night, I could hear people crawling on all fours about the
floor. The inhabitants of the two sides of the river were hostile
to each other, and rows were of frequent occurrence ; just as
we left, there was a grand battle, which lasted all day; the
negroes gaining possession of the fortress, brought one of the
guns to bear on the American side, and were about firing,
when an old Kentuckian, covering himself behind a ruined
wall, drew up his rifle, and in an instant the gunner fell dead ;
his place was quickly supplied by others, but the moment they
showed themselves, crack went the rifle, and down fell a negro ;
in this way, it is estimated that the Kentuckian brought down
at least twenty men in one day, effectually silencing the gun.
The climate of Chagres is, as I have said before, deadly,
and its inhabitants looked like ghosts, pale, wan and emaciated,
with glassy eyes ; they seemed to be unconsciously on the brink
of the grave. The constant alternation of heavy rain and
powerful sun upon the rank vegetation and decayed matter
brought down the river by the rapid current, produced a
seething and miasmatic evaporation, which it was positively
sickening to breathe, and glad were we to escape from it ;
embarking once more in canoes, and passing a dangerous surf,
rolling on the bar, we were delighted to find ourselves aboard
the good steamer " Crescent City."
A voyage of ten days quickly passed, unvaried save by
twenty-four hours' sojourn at the island of Jamaica, for the
purpose of coaling. On the 20th day of August, 1850, I
found myself again in New York, after an absence of a year
and a half. Once passed the pleasure of saying how d'ye do

158 OFF AGAIN.
to my friends, I again began to crave the excitements of the
life that I had been leading, and in thirty days from the day
of my arrival, I was again sailing out past Sandy Hook, in a
little schooner-brig of 120 tons, bound on a voyage of
20,000 miles to Guaymas, a port on the western coast of
Mexico. Our vessel, an hermaphrodite brig, of but little over a
hundred tons, was but a small craft to undertake such a
voyage, and being pretty heavily laden with machinery, seemed
scarcely higher out of water than a ship's quarter-boat ; she
was certainly no beauty either, but she was well built, which,
after all, was the great desideratum.
We were four of us in the cabin — a cousin of mine, one Bob
N., who was off for a lark ; a young Mexican, who had been
educated in the United States ; and a Scotchman, who was
going out to try his fortune. In view of the long voyage
before us, after the first few days, we all settled down in a
quiet methodical way, as if anticipating a life-long residence
aboard the little craft. Each one gave his energies as his
inclination led him, and followed its bent during the day ; but
in the evening, by one accord, we always met around the
cabin table, as regularly as the sun went below the horizon,
and played whist until ten o'clock. Nothing interfered with
our game ; blow high or blow low, we were always at our post,
though occasionally we would be unavoidably interrupted by
reefing or taking in sail. Every spare hour of the day was
given to my studies, of which navigation, Spanish, and
French were the principal ; and having been previously well-
grounded in each, as may be imagined, during a voyage of
eight months, I got to be tolerably proficient in all three.

HURRAH FOR MAURY. 159
Few can understand the inestimable benefit conferred upon
sea-faring men, and upon the ship-owning community generally,
by Lieutenant Maury in his new system of wind and current
charts, — based upon the extract of the rich experience of a
thousand voyages, as found in their journals, and so classifying
them as to point out to the young mariner the probable
strength of wind and current, and the indications of fair
weather or of foul, which he may meet in any particular lati
tude, at any season of the year. Armed with these invaluable
epitomes of information, the young ship-master steers boldly
into unknown seas with as much confidence as if he had spent
his life upon them, and with as fair a chance of a successful
voyage. In exchange for all this valuable aid, Lieutenant M.
merely asks the shipmaster to be a co-laborer with him in the
field of nautical science ; and in the outset of his voyage, handa
him a blank book, in which, each day, he is to note his posi
tion, the temperature of air and water, and the direction and
strength of winds, and any other natural phenomena which may
present themselves to him. At the expiration of his voyage,
this log is to be forwarded to Lieutenant M., who adds it to his
store of accumulated information, and in turn draws from it
for the benefit of others. It is most astonishing the electric
effect that this presenting an object — a something to ponder and
reflect upon — has had upon ship-captains, and the zeal with
which men who previously never aspired to anything further
than the ability to take an altitude of a planet, have evinced
in carrying out Lieutenant M.'s wishes. Men who, for years,
had dreamed life away amid nature's most startling phenomena,
now awoke to the pleasant assurance that even their humble
efforts might be made valuable to science ; and with all the

160 IGNORANCE VS. SCIENCE.
impetuosity of a sailor's nature, they eagerly seized upon the
idea, and nobly have they sustained the opinion formed of them
by their distinguished coadjutor.
It is interesting to note the change that this has wrought
in the character of many of our American navigators. Men
who never thought a gale worth their notice, when once they
had escaped its fury ; who snapped their fingers at a current,
so long as they had a good breeze with them ; who cared
not a fig for thermometrical or barometrical observations, so
long as the weather was fair ; and who would not deign a
glance at fish or fowl, so long as they were out of reach of
harpoon or fowling-piece, may now be seen anxiously ponder
ing upon the centre-circles of a cyclone, and endeavoring to
compute its strength and velocity. No current ripples the
sea that they do not note it, and endeavor, by comparison
with observations, to calculate its force.
At mid-day and mid-night, they carefully scan the mercury
in barometer and thermometer, instituting strict comparison
between atmospheric changes and the actual state of the
weather. No fowl soars above their head, but they watch its
flight and jot it down in their log, and no fish shaves the cut
water, but they anxiously note his species and class, and log it
too. In a word, the animated pieces of mechanism who for
merly directed merchant ships across the boundless wastes of
ocean, who pooh-poohed anything like scientific acquirements
as unseamanlike, have been converted into rational, thinking
men, whose energetic and impetuous natures once enlisted,
have put their shoulders to the wheel, only requiring the direc
tion of their accomplished leader, Maury, to compass great
results.

SHORT PASSAGES. 161
Set ignorant men once to thinking, and give them a taste for
study, and you at once remove the great barrier which exists
between them and their intellectual superiors, and by arousing
an esprit de corps (which Maury has eminently succeeded
in, in this case) you at once smooth the asperities and rough
ness of ignorance, and give character to men, who, hitherto,
having no respect for themselves beyond the vulgar self-es
teem, inseparable from ignorance, had no incentive for better
ing their position of life.
The ship-owner, sitting in his easy chair at home, taking up
a newspaper, and glancing over the marine news, chuckles over
a splendid run which his new clipper has just made to San
Francisco, and naturally concludes that his skipper is a para
gon of smartness. But no thanks does he award to Maury,
who by years of patient investigation, in overhauling musty,
mildewed log-books, accumulated for a century back, has eli
cited such stores of information, as has enabled him to point
out to the smart captain, the very route which he has pursued,
much to the satisfaction of himself and owners.
Maury tells him, that bound for Cape Horn, there is no ne
cessity of first standing over to the coast of Africa, and from
thence to the Cape, thus making two legs of a triangle,
instead of sailing straight along its base, and thus traversing
a space of nearly two thousand miles more than there was any
necessity for, as used invariably to be the custom. He tells him,
when once around the Cape, to cross the equator in about 110°
west longitude, instead of standing over to the Sandwich Islands,
and thus going hundreds of miles out of his course ; and in
fact, as previously stated, he gives him the cream of the accu
mulated experience of a thousand navigators, which, sifted by

162 HURRAH FOR MAURY AGAIN.
a thoroughly educated and analytical mind, cannot be otherwise
than inestimably valuable to all who follow the sea.
No one who has not practically experienced the isolated
loneliness of a shipmaster's position on a long voyage, with
out passengers, wearied out with monotony and ennui, can
thoroughly appreciate the benefit conferred upon his class by
Lieut. Maury; indeed, even looking upon the system, as an en
tertaining way of killing time, I will venture to say, that no
sea-faring man, who has his sympathies fully enlisted in this
cause, will ever complain of too much leisure aboard ship,
the constant changes incident to the life, affording abundant
food for thought, in connection with the great scientific results
of which he feels himself an humble promoter. I myself be
came deeply interested in these researches, and must acknow
ledge many delightful hours spent in ruminating upon the
theories suggested by Lieut. Maury, and have from that time
henceforward, always endeavored to carry out his views in
every respect, by keeping a " log," and forwarding it to him
as opportunity offered.

CHAPTER VIII.

S0N0EA.

Guaymas — Its snug Harbor — My Uncle — Appearance of his Residence —
Salute his Family in Mexican style — Am installed in my new Home —
Go to Work — Mode of doing Business not in strict accordance with the
Revenue Laws — Government badly administered — Proclivity of Mexi
cans to Revolution — Social System — Pretty Girls — Native Grace — Eng
Ush Men-of-war — Balls on board — I get sick — Go to a Watering-place
to recuperate — Appearance of Captain Ellis in the Schooner Alice —
Filibustering — Count Rooaset's Expedition, his Campaign, his Defeat
and Execution — General Walker — I buy a Vessel and cruize about in
her.
After a long but not unpleasant voyage, on the 13 th of April,
the breaking day revealed to us Cape Haro, near the entrance
to the harbor of Guaymas ; rapidly coming up with it and
descrying "las tetas de Cabra," or "Kids-teats," a well known
land-mark indicating the true entrance, we headed in among
the islands which form the harbor ; passing San Vicente and
the Isla de Pajaros, we jibbed ship, and shooting through the
Almagros, came to an anchor abreast the Punta Arenas, at
a distance of only a few hundred yards from the town. The
excitement of coming to anchor being over, we had time to
look about us, and examine the place of which we had heard
so much and so much longed to see.
The bay, one of the most secluded little nooks one could 163

164 GUAYMAS.
imagine, so completely land-locked that the entrance is
scarcely distinguishable, is a perfect little basin, surrounded by
lofty mountains, whose bare sides, destitute of a sign of vege
tation, reflect a heat which cannot be exceeded at midsummer at
any other point on the globe. The town itself, situated at the
base of a lofty hill, and built in the old Spanish American style,
with flat roof, and of adobes or mud-brick, is lost to the eye
of the casual observer, among the immense hills which overtop
it, and give it a background of the same color with the
houses themselves ; it is only when informed of its where
abouts, that the stranger awakes to the fact that the town is
spread directly before him, and he at once detects the individu
ality of the houses.
Our arrival was on a Sunday, about mid-day, just the hour
of siesta, when every one had retired from the intense bright
ness and heat of the sun ; the place seemed deserted, for, ex
cept a few solitary, half-naked Indians, not a soul was to be
seen ; indeed the national ensign which flaunted in the strong
sea-breeze seemed to be the only thing possessed of motive
power. The arrival of a foreign vessel, however, was too im
portant an event in this dull old town not to create some ex
citement, and in a few moments the male population came
streaming down towards tbe mole, and the custom-house
officials came pulling off in their gay gig, and but a short time
elapsed before an old uncle whom we had not seen in twenty
years, came aboard to welcome us. I would have singled him
out of a thousand, for although a residence of thirty years un
der that burning sun had browned his cheek, still he stood
preeminent among the dark-visaged throng about him, as his
white hair floated in the wind, and his bright, intelligent eye

NEW HOME. 165
and animated features testified to the pleasure he felt, in wel
coming us to his house. Bidding us jump into his boat, we
were quickly on shore, when leading us up to his almacen, or
place of business (spacious storehouse fitted up with sales
rooms and offices, such as would do credit to any commercial
town in the world), and handing us our letters, which had been
long awaiting us, he proposed our accompanying him to his
dwelling, and being introduced to our aunt and cousins, none of
whom we had ever seen. Inasmuch as not one of uncle's whole
family spoke a word of English, and we spoke scarcely a word
of Spanish,* and, furthermore, taking into consideration that of
some eight or nine cousins, nearly all were young ladies, we
looked forward to onr presentation as rather an awkward or
deal ; nevertheless, it had to be done, therefore, buckling up
our courage to the sticking point, we begged to be led on to
the charge. Arriving at our future residence, we found it to
be a long, rambling building fronting on the sea, with immense
corridors or piazzas, so deep as always to be shaded from the
sun ; entering a wide doorway called the sauan, we found our
selves in a large courtyard blooming with the most beautiful
and fresh looking flowers and plants, appearing to our eyes, so
long strangers to anything like it, and dazzled by the intense
heat and glare reflected from the bare sand and shell "without,
a very paradise. Without stopping to admire, we were ushered
into a long saloon, paved with tesselated marble, furnished
after the European style, with great taste ; my heart sank
within me, as a glass door opened, and a whole bevy of demure
young girls came forward to receive us ; my aunt headed
the procession, and not waiting for the ceremony of an intro-
* I was the only one who spoke it at all [

166 EMBRACES A LA MEXIOANA.
duction, threw her arms around us, embracing us with great
unction in Mexican fashion. I was completely dumb-founded,
and all the pretty little Spanish phrases which I had conjured
up for the occasion flew to the winds ; however, putting a bold
face on the matter, I took my cue from my aunt, and com
menced an indiscriminate hug, which the demure misses afore
said enjoyed, I know, by the twinkling of their bright little
eyes ; a social meal and an impromptu dance, soon dissipated all
feelings of awkwardness and restraint. A description of my
new home may not be here inappropriate.
The house, situated directly on the bay, at a distance of not
more than twenty yards from the water, is constructed of
adobe, one story high, with a front of one hundred and fifty
feet, and a deep piazza ruuning its whole length ; entering a
wide hall, to the left is the dining-saloon, with grated win
dows from floor to ceiling, looking out on the bay, and to the
right a suit of sleeping-rooms, ventilated in a similar way.
The hall leads into a large courtyard, with raised flower-beds,
filled with flowers of the richest perfume and of the brightest
hue, besides a variety of orange, lemon, pomegranate and fig
trees ; here is to be found the only verdure that exists within
several miles of the town, and which is kept up at great ex
pense, the earth being brought from a long distance, and which
has constantly to be renewed, while the water used for irriga
tion has likewise to be brought a distance of a mile or more in
casks. To the right of the garden, and elevated some six feet
above it, is a covered corridor, of fifty feet in length, by twelve
broad, into which open the doors of the parlors and bed-cham
bers ; the first room entered is the parlor, very spacious, the
ceiling carried up to the roof, and instead of being plastered,

MEXIOAN HOUSE. 167
the rafters, highly ornamented, are exposed to view ; its furni
ture of rich French pattern, the walls hung with paintings,
while a magnificent piano by Collard and Callaro, and a mam
moth harp by a French celebrity, indicate the taste of its oc
cupants. Through a pair of glass doors, you enter into a large
bed-room ; prominent stands an immense gilt bedstead, of
elaborate workmanship, such indeed as is only manufactured
for the Mexican market, highly ornamented and massive ;
the curtains of rich lace, and coverlid a chef d'ceuvre of
Chinese art ; this elegant piece of furniture never cost
less than $1,000 ; Japan divans and lacquered ward
robes are placed in appropriate positions, while the washing
and other utensils are of pure silver ; passing through another
glass door you enter the sala-grande or large parlor, a room
measuring 60 feet in length by about 20 in breadth, with a
tesselated marble pavement, and hung with chandeliers — this
hall is reserved for festive occasions, although a delightful lounge
in hot weather ; from hence you pass into and through several
chambers, and thence into the pantries and bath-rooms. Step
ping again into the corridor, at the extreme end and crossing
to the other side of the garden, you enter the kitchen ; the
Mexican kitchen is a very different place from the cuisine of
Yankee land ; merely used for cooking purposes, it contains no
furniture, its unwashed walls blackened with smoke, and its un-
paved floor, give it a dirty and gloomy appearance. Moreover,
there is no range or cooking-stove, the apparatus used in pre
paring food being made in this wise : a solid earthen or brick
platform is carried along the wall, three feet in height ; at in
tervals of a foot, little walls of brick, some eighteen inches high
are raised dividing the whole affair into pigeon holes ; in these

168 HIGH TEMPERATURE.
apertures fires are built, while over the top of each, small bars
of iron are laid, on which the meat is placed for roasting or
broiling, or earthenware pots are set for boiling or stewing.
The most primitive utensils are used, made usually of earth,
and it is astonishing how, with such simple appliances, such ex
cellent success attends their culinary efforts. Leaving the
kitchen on the left and pushing through another large door and
under au arch, you enter the court-yard, containing the stables,
poultry-yards, etc.
The large corridor, during the hot season, which lasts from
March until November, is used as a-bed chamber, and each night
the cots belonging to every member of the family are brought out
and extended ; the excessive heat prohibiting the use of bed
ding, a sheet laid over the sacking-bottom of a cot, and a hair
pillow, is all that is requisite. During the months of July,
August or September, it is impossible to sleep under cover, and
during that time the cots are placed in the open courts or on
the roof. Speaking of the excessive heat, I would observe that
during the above mentioned months, the thermometer shows
an average during 24 hours of 90° Fahrenheit, the maxi
mum at 2 p. m., being at about 100° — while the minimum at
2 a. m., would not be less than 85°. From the month of
November, however, until March, there are times when the mer
cury falls as low as 50°, and a fair average of that period
would probably be in the vicinity of 70°. The heat during
the summer is most oppressive, and the winds as they sweep
down from the hills become so charged with caloric as to be
absolutely unbearable when exposed to them, making it neces
sary during the warmer part of the day, to close the doors to
exclude the breeze ; during this period the place is subject to

MEXICAN SIMUON. 169
what are called los vientos calienles or hot winds, when the
wind comes from a certain quarter, passing over a mountain
ous district entirely destitute of verdure, whose rocky surface
continually exposed to the fierce rays of the sun becomes heat
ed to an incredible degree ; these winds rushing over them and
becoming charged with their heat, reach the town, and bring
with them a temperature so high, that exposure to their blasts
would be absolutely painful to one ; during their continuance
everything contracts and withers, and furniture is often
rent asunder with great violence, they last generally three
or four hours, leaving the atmosphere, however, much clearer
than before their approach.
One singular thing connected with them is, that the water
usually luke-warm and undrinkable, after the passage of one of
these winds, becomes icy cold and most refreshing, caused by
the excessive evaporation.
On the occasion of one blowing, I noted the mercury at its
approach to stand at 95°, at sundown ; at 9 p. m. two hours
after, it showed 107°, and at its cessation it again fell to 89°. On
entering a room which had been closed throughout the day
during their prevalence, one experiences a cold shiver, although
the mercury should indicate 90°, inside — the change of tem
perature being so great from without.
There being an absence of all dew and rain during a greater
part of the year, there is no humidity whatever in the tempera
ture, which is very disagreeable, parching the skin, and not
inducing perspiration, which is so necessary to the comfort in
these latitudes. The temperature is so uniform day and night
that it is almost an impossibility to sleep with comfort, and one
wakes languid and enervated, notwithstanding all his precau-
8

170 ASSAULT BY JACKASSES.
tions of having his bed placed on the housetop, or even in the
street — an expedient frequently resorted to. The poorer classes,
not having the advantage of spacious court-yards during the
" heated term," use the street as a bed-room, and before each
door there may be seen a family circle quietly snoring away ;
some funny scenes often result from this. I remember one
moonlight night, returning home quite late with some compa
nions, and, espying a street full of sleepers, one, less sober than
the others, resolved on playing them a trick : routing up a herd
of jackasses quietly snoozing, and giving a series of diabolical
yells, he sent them full tilt through the dormitory. Such a
hubbub never was heard or seen, every cot overturned, women
half dressed rushing about crying " Indians! Indians 1" and the
poor children lay sprawling and screeching in the road, while
men, seizing their arms, let fly into the unfortunate donkeys,
who, bewildered with the uproar and smarting from their
wounds, returned full tilt to the charge. The chagrin of the
sleepers may be imagined, on discovering that they had been
fighting their own asses.
My initiation into business was immediate, the details of
my uncle's affairs having gone behind for some eighteen
months, on account of his clerks having left for California.
I found myself plunged into a mass of intricate accounts,
which seemed at first utterly beyond my powers of unravel
ing, more particularly so from the fact of their being kept in a
foreign language ; however, at it I went, day and night, for six
months, the morning's sun often shining in upon my labors,
protracted through the long night-vigils until after dawn of
day. Hard work it was, indeed, but the unceasing application
necessary to accomplish it made me more thoroughly conver-

THE KEY TO SONORA. 171
sant with the business transactions of the country, and its com
mercial dialect, than years of ordinary routine would have done.
The heat I found a very great drawback in pursuing my avoca
tion, enervating and debilitating, and at times almost forcing
me to abandon it ; sitting at my desk, with no clothing but a
linen shirt and pantaloons, the perspiration brought out by
the effort of writing would drop from off me on my papers, so
as almost to obliterate my work ; it likewise induced a feeling
of intense sleepiness, which, at night, it seemed almost impos
sible to overcome. My preparations for night-work were as
follows : on a table beside my desk, a basin of water, a coffee
machine, with a spirit lamp and a bundle of cigars ; as soon
as I felt that I was losing myself, I would plunge my head into
the water, then take a cup of strong coffee, then smoke a
cigar ; in this way I was enabled to get through a wonderful
number of nights. My work commenced in April, lasting with
but little intermission till July, when my final balance was
made ; and, as may be supposed, I fell ill, and was on my back
for weeks with a severe nervous affection.
The mode of conducting business operations on the coast of
Mexico is peculiar to that country, and is worth describing; we
will take the port of Guaymas for an example. The only port
of entry for the state of Sonora, all foreign goods consumed by
its inhabitants, besides a large amount sold annually to the
state of Chihuahua, go through its custom house, and are from
thence transported on mule-back hundreds of miles into the
interior to the different towns and trading posts; upwards of two
millions and a half of dollars worth of goods being annually
disposed of in this way. Now, the Mexican tariff of duties, it is
well known, is so high in its rates, that it amounts almost

172 EVADING THE DUTIES.
to a, prohibition; and, naturally, if importers could not evade.
the _payment of these duties, a total suspension of business
would be, the result. But, of course, such a thihg would be
absurd. Nor, indeed, could a people long accustomed to
European articles of luxury, be .induced to forego their use.
The mode in which goods are passed through the custom house,
is in this wise. A merchant, who is in expectation of a foreign
cargo, stations a boat outside of the harbor, to communicate
with his ship before entering : upon heaving in sight, she is
boarded by the person from the boat before mentioned, to whom
the master of the ship hands over a manifest of her cargo ;
this is immediately smuggled ashore to the merchant, the ves
sel meanwhile cruising off,, the' harbor out of sight. The mer
chant, putting his manifest in his pocket, walks over to the
custom house, and, calling, the collector aside, says to him, " I
am expecting a ship on the coast, and this (producing the
manifest) is. an account, of her cargo. Now, I want to know
on what terms you will enter her, provided she comes here;
for, if you do not make a liberal offer, I will send her to some
other port." After a great deal of haggling and conferring
with his officers, a bargain is struck, allowing the ship to come
in at a reduction of say from twenty to thirty per cent, upon the
tariff rates ; the collector receiving as a bribe from ten to fif
teen thousand dollars. In the meanwhile the merchant has,
perhaps, two or three hundred bales on board, which he has
no idea of paying any duty whatever on ; so he charters some snug
little craft to steal out of port — go alongside the vessel outside
— take the said bales out of her, and land them at some unin
habited place, where he has his mule-trains awaiting to
transport them into the interior ; the muleteers being furnished

HOW THEY COLLECT CUSTOMS. 173
with the necessary forged papers to enable them to pass the
internal custom house, the officers of which, probably, have
received a large bribe, not to look too closely into the affair.
In consequence of this last transaction, of course a new mani
fest must be made out; for the collector knows nothing of this
affair. The new papers are consequently drawn, the signatures
of the European officers affixed, together with their seals of office;
a duplicate of which every mercliant is furnished with by his cot-
respondents ! Affairs being concluded with the custom house,
the ship enters, and the cargo is discharged into the warehouse
of the merchant under custom-house seal. The vista (an officer
of the custom house) is then ordered to take an aecount of
the goods in store, in order that they may be compared
with the manifest ; but he, in turn, is willing to make a little
money : so at night he comes, breaks his seal, allows the mer
chant to take out certain contraband goods which he has
among the cargo, and then reseals the door, and on the morrow
makes the most rigid examination. Thus the goods are entered
for, say fifty per cent, less than the tariff rate of duties ; and,
assuming the actual duties to amount to, say
$100,00u— 50 per cent., would be ... $50,000
Bribe to collector,  10,000
" " vista,  2,500
" " guards, etc., .... 2,500

$65,000 $65,000

$35,000 — Amount saved by the merchant ; exclusive of duties
on goods smuggled outside the port, showing a saving of
$35,000. By means of the false manifests the government is

174 CONTUMACIOUS OFFICIALS.
only credited with $50,000, and out of this amount rarely
receives a dollar, as it is accounted for by the collector, in his
returns, as expended in salaries, coast-guard expenses, etc. etc.
The above is no exception to the general rule, but is the usual
and only way of getting a cargo into the country. Should a
collector prove contumacious, and not be willing to accept a
fair offer, the ship is kept off the port until he comes to' terms,
which he almost always does, or if not, she is sent off to some
other port. Should a collector have conscientious scruples,
which once in " a very great while is the case, every effort is
resorted to, to get rid of him by way of bribe and menace, and
almost invariably one or the other is successful ; if not, then
he is forcibly ejected from the town, taken on board some ves
sel in the night, and sent off a long distance, with a gentle hint
that his life will pay the forfeit in case of his return. I remem
ber an instance of a gentleman by the name of Malo, one of
the few honest Mexican officials who have held this office ; he
was collector of Mazatlan ;in vain offers were made for entry;
for a month or more he held out, and during this time, on one
occasion, he was offered $30,000 to go to his country-seat and
remain two days, but he was really too honest, and rather than
lend his connivance to these affairs he resigned. To show the
utter want of principle in these men, it is a fact that when the
English bond-holders agreed to take the receipts of the Mexi
can custom houses in payment for their dues, they appointed
their own officials from the best recommendations in the couritry,
and not one man turned out true to his trust, although paid liberal
salaries. As I before observed, the collectors, in hopes of get
ting a larger bribe, or from some equally worthy motive, some
times refuse to allow a vessel to enter on any terms less than

NATIONAL SMUGGLERS. 175
the legal requirements. In this case, the ship goes to some
other port; but it occasionally happens that, on account of the
state of the market, she must enter at this one port ; in which
case she cruises outside until the collector comes to terms : and
I knew of one vessel being outside the port of Mazatlan
six months ; so that together with her five months' voyage from
England, her crew were eleven months on board ship without
going ashore. The export duties on money, make it necessary
to smuggle it all off aboard ship ; the gold dust and uncoined
silver is contraband, and coined gold and silver pays a heavy
duty. Large quantities are smuggled off in this wise : a man-
of-war comes in harbor, and makes it known privately to the
merchants that she will take a specie freight. Every night two
or three boats are sent ashore, and their crews, with their
smuggling jackets inside their shirts, are ordered up to the dif
ferent counting-rooms. Each man is laden with sufficient, so
as not to cause suspicion ; and then they are accompanied down
to the boats by an officer, the guards of course not daring to
interfere with them. Officers,, also, enter into the business, and
receive pay for all 'they carry off; so that on every occasion of
coming on shore, they load themselves down. Generally, several
balls are given on board, and occasion is taken to hide a bag
of dust in each lady's dress previous to embarking, the gentle
men likewise taking their proportion ; and in this way large
quantities are smuggled. The bar silver, however, gives more
trouble, and seizures are frequently made. On many occasions
I myself have been obliged to get large sums off on board ship;
and I remember once, within a few days, taking off over one
hundred thousand in hard dollars, six hundred at a time,
which was really very hard work, as the money, fitted in a

17') HEE MAJESTY TRIES HER HAND.
canvas jacket, has to be put on under the shirt ; and, con
sequently, one is obliged every trip to dress and undress him
self. This does not seem a very creditable business for the
men-of-war Of a friendly nation to engage in ; but the English
men-of-war have been in the habit of doing it for years, and
from the port of Guaymas alone, take perhaps three million
dollars annually; the freight on specie is about one per cent.,
one-half per cent, going to the Admiralty, one-quarter per cent.
to the Greenwich Hospital, and one-quarter per cent, to the
captain. This is an immense perquisite, and, of course, is
a great inducement for the captains of vessels to use their
utmost endeavors to secure the freights, little caring how it is
got on board. The English men-of-war's men are not very nice
in their idea of international courtesy, as may be imagined
from the following incident :
During the year 1849, the frigate Meander made her appear
ance in Mazatlan ; during her presence, a foreign merchant
man came into port, and her owners made an arrangement
with the captain of the man-of-war to assist in smuggling
a certain amount of goods ashore, to be landed on a beach
directly in front of the town ; an understanding was had with
the police not to interfere, and at midnight, two cutters, filled
with armed men from the Meander, took two heavily-laden
barges in tow, and succeeded in landing the goods high and
dry on the beach. The soldiers getting wind of the affair,
rushed down and fired into the boats, and several volleys were
exchanged, but I don't think any one was killed ; a pretty
piece of business for one of her majesty's crack frigates to be
engaged in ! Business on the coast is conducted on the credit
system, eight months' time being usually given ; when a ship

CURRENCY

177

comes in, notice is given throughout the state, and buyers
flock to the port to make their purchases, which they usually
do very expeditiously, and oftentimes in less than a month the
greater part of the saleable goods of a heavy cargo are
disposed of at prices not by any means exorbitant. The
goods mostly in request are linens, cambrics, cotton goods,
calic'os, French and German silks of the richest description,
French fancy manufactures, with every variety of fine hard
ware, chinaware, groceries, wines, etc.
After disposing of the goods, it is an immense job to pack
them, for, as everything is carried on miiles,: the weight of all
the packages has to be very nicely adjusted ; besides this,
they must all be reentered in the internal custom house,
the process of the entry being extremely intricate and tedious,
and here comes another piece of smuggling into play. Certain
goods paying much higher duties than others, substitutions must
be made, representing the article to be of the 'kind paying the
lesser duty ; for instance, say that one hundred casks of
Madeira wine are to be forwarded into the interior — now
Madeira pays more duty than Muscatel, therefore, on the
entry, two hundred casks Muscatel is written, and the duty
computed accordingly, all, of course, under the approval of the
custom-house officer; these formalities and details are extremely
laborious, and involve an immense expenditure of time and
patience. The currency is -most diversified, and is another element of
confusion in conducting business. The bar silver, weighing
some eighty pounds to the bar, is composed of pure silver, or
sometimes with an admixture of gold ; on the back of it is
branded its weight, and if mixed with gold, the weight of the
8*

jUO PIC-NICS.
gold in it. These marks are government brands, and pass
current in all transactions, the value of the metal being
estimated by varying rates.. Plata fuego is silver in lumps,
extracted from the ore by fire, and Plata pina is also lump
silver, extracted by quicksilver. Gold appears also in small
bars of from $1,500 to $2,000, and also in dust in large quan
tities, as well as in lumps, likewise extracted by fire and
quicksilver. Spanish and Mexican coin is also largely in use,
as well as North American money, which is becoming com
mon ; as may be imagined, with all these different values, the
cash-keeper has his hands full in keeping his cash accounts
straight and making his remittances.
Notwithstanding the immense amount of labor entailed
by the absurd requirements of Mexican law at the hands of
the merchant, still every occasion is taken advantage of for a
holiday or an excursion of some sort or other, and the com
munity all harmonizing, it needs only a suggestion from one
party, seconded by another, to set the little world in motion
for a grand pic-nic to one of the many delightfully appropriate
localities for such an affair. No sooner thought upon than
put into execution ; a committee is organized, subscriptions
solicited (always forthcoming), provisions are furnished, the
little flotilla of boats got ready, men sent off to the scene
of action to pitch tents and clear off a spot for dancing, and
the next morning the whole population is off — merry girls and
young men, papas and grand-papas, mammas and grand
mammas — all set off, and after a day spent in feasting and
dancing, midnight sees them returning, fatigued but delighted,
and ready to go to work with renewed vigor.
Taste in dress is inherent to the Spanish women, and really

MEXICAN WOMEN. 179
one would be astonished to observe the effect produced by
them when arrayed for a ball. They are the most desperate
flirts, and I pity any poor fellow who falls in love with a
Guaymanian before he is ready to marry — if he be of a jealous
disposition, he will never survive it. One of the nicest girls in
Guaymas, at the time of my arrival, was one Margarita, a
blonde among brunettes, with the most prodigious flow of
animal spirits, but tempered by a good sense, which made her
a charming companion ; she was a delightful partner in a ball
room, and most interesting in her own snug house ; she was
the sister of the priest, and having had access to his library,
was rather more conversable than her companions ; many an
hour has melted away in her society, but she too, poor girl,
melted away like the pleasant hours, and although she fought
the grim old knight, Consumption, hard, he was at length her
conqueror, and as I saw her pass to her long home, her opened
coffin strewn with flowers, my heart turned sick within me —
pobrecita I
But the jolliest, merriest, most roguish little " sprite " of all
the town was a certain little Carmelita, in form most diminu
tive, but graceful as an houri, her eyes like dancing water, and
her face beaming with intelligence ; of marvellously quick per
ception, she would unravel, in an instant, any " pretty speeches "
obscurely rendered in bad Spanish, and, rapping my knuckles
with her fan, would, with serio-comicality, correct my blunders.
I could not do otherwise than quickly learn the language under
the tuition of so lovely a professor, and I must say my progress
surprised myself. Every evening the setting sun found me
before her window opening on the sea ; and many a well-
remembered hour have I passed with her there. Standing

180 A COQUETTE.
looking at the red-faced moon as she peeped over the eastern
hills, she would say, "Ah, Don Tomas, what would you not
give to see your Dona Isabel, who is probably also looking at
that lovely moon ?" Then I would say, " Ah, Querida Carme-
Kta, what would you not give to be tete-a-tete with your Don
Joaquin, who is at this moment blessing that moon, because
she looks on thee 1" Then the little witch would blush most
suspiciously, I never dreaming, however, that all this time her
troth was plighted to that same Joaquin. She carried too many
guns for me ! As a standing rule, she always gave me the first
polka in all assemblies, parties, or pic-nics. Indeed it was
useless for any one else to apply, not even the redoubtable Don
Joaquin himself ; she, the very smallest of females, and I,
rather a, tall specimen of humanity, would go twirling around,
till, from very dizziness, we would be obliged to seek refuge in
a corner to recuperate. Half the time during the dance her
feet would never touch the floor, at all ; nevertheless, she was
never out of time or lost step, for all that.
One great drawback to the comfort of a residence in Mexico
is the constant dread one stands in of the numerous vermin
and poisonous reptiles and insects which infest the country, the
bite of which latter is sometimes fatal, but always attended
with the most unpleasant consequences. The most to be dread
ed of these reptiles is the scorpion, or alacran, — not longer
than the first joint of your finger. He finds a secure hiding-
place in the toe of one's boot, or in the sleeves of the coat,
where he ensconces himself in ambush, when, woe to the unfor
tunate who attempts putting on the inhabited article ; for,
enraged at being disturbed, he inflicts a series of stings — until
he is removed from the person — any one of which is oftentimes

VENOMOUS RE I* T 1 h E S . 181
sufficient to throw one into spasms. The sting to an infant
is always fatal ; rarely to an adult, but generally attended
with great pain and temporary paralysis of the part affected,
nervous people being thrown into convulsions. These little
torments abound in old houses, delighting in dark corners, and
hiding themselves in the crevices of walls. They salley forth
at night, and drop upon one when least expected. They are
often found beneath one's pillow, or between the sheets, causing
a shudder when discovered. For mouths after my arrival in
the country, I was scrupulously careful in examining every arti
cle of clothing before putting it on, shaking out my boots, and
turning sleeves and stockings inside out ; yet, notwithstanding
my precautions, was several times bitten, and, at- last, gave it
up in disgust, resolving to run my chance.' The alacran,
though usually small, sometimes grows quite large, and I
have seen them as large and as thick as my thumb, a
most hideous object to behold ; but, fortunately, the largest
are least to be dreaded, for as they increase in size, they
become less venomous ; they look more like a crab than
anything else that I can compare them to, having, how
ever, a long tail, which they carry in an arc over their
back, the extreme end armed with a horn-like substance,'
sharp as a cambric needle, and hooked ;. and this is their
weapon ; and, on being molested, they, wield' it with unparal
leled activity and spite. The young ones, on being given birth
to, immediately climb upon the mother's back, and attacking
her, gradually eat her up, leaving only the sheU, and, by that
time, are sufficiently strong to go off into the world, literally
on their own hook. The alacran of Durango is the most
venomous, and hundreds of children are yearly killed by them

182 SNAKES.
in that province. So great is the dread of them, that the
mayor pays a standing reward of sixpence for every one cap
tured, and boys armed with stilettos wage constant war upon
them. The centipede is another loathsome reptile, which is more
dreaded than the alacran itself. Several inches long, of a dark
brown color, and covered with a repulsive-looking hair and
slime, and walking upon its thousand legs, the very sight
produces a sensation of sickness and disgust. In order to bite,
he must make great preparation, and get himself into a particu
lar position. This manceuvering makes his presence known to
grown people, who shake him off, but helpless children rarely
escape, and his sting is almost always mortal.
Of spiders, of the most venomous description, there are
innumerable species, the most noted among which is the well-
known tarantula, which grows here to an enormous size,
and is. revolting to look upon. Of snakes, there are every
variety, and of the most poisonous nature, the rattle-snake
abounding. This horrible reptile frequently finds his way
into human habitations. On several different occasions
they were killed in our own house — once rolled up in a lady's
stocking — again ensconced in her bath-tub — and again by the
side of my bed. A young girl, a cousin, coming iu to call us
in the morning, while sitting by our bedside, seeing something
glistening on the floor, stooped to pick it up, supposing it to be
a ribbon or sash which we had carried off as a trophy from the
ball of the night previous, when she was horrified by seeing it
curling itself, ready to spring, and sounding its rattle. We
did not take long to wake that morning, and his snakeship was
dispatched by an article of bed-room furniture which is not

I N D I o s . 183
commonly used for that purpose. One of the greatest draw
backs to sleeping in the open air is the exposure to a certain
kind of bat which abounds here, and while flying about,
drops a fluid, which, in falling upon the skin, acts as a powerful
caustic, raising a severe blister. If it falls into the eye, it
blinds it. They are excessively annoying, and one rarely
escapes being victimized for more than a week at a time. A
sheet drawn over one is no protection, as their fluid has blis
tered my skin, having passed through a sheet and a pair of
linen drawers.
The principal town in the state of Sonora is the city of Her-
mosillo, some forty leagues inland from Guaymas, a place of
from ten to fifteen thousand inhabitants, with nothing, however,
remarkable about it, excepting that, for an inland town, it is
an unusually active and stirring place ; for here, the goods that
are purchased in large quantities at the port, are retailed to
the minor traders of the adjoining country, creating a good
deal of life and animation, and rendering it, as it were, the mar
ket-town of the whole northern part of the state. In the vici
nity there are numbers of rich plantations, on which are raised
large quantities of wheat, which is ground and sent by mules
to the port, and from there shipped in sufficient quantities to
supply the whole Mexican coast.
The country in this vicinity, and for a long distance inland,
is extremely fertile, and in many instances well watered, but
these poor devils of Mexicans dare not occupy the land, from a
dread of the Indians, who infest the entire northern part of the
state, and when the poor farmer is least thinking of them they
bear down in overwhelming numbers upon him, and massacring
him and all his family, carry off his stock, leaving his planta-

184 DIOS Y L I B E R T A D !
tion a mass of ruin. The Appachees, knowing the cowardice
of the Mexicans, venture oftentimes within sight of their largest
towns to commit their depredations, and on several occasions
have been seen by the people of Hermosillo from their house
tops, burning the farm-houses not a league distant. The cen
tral government every once in a while makes a great flourish
of trumpets about sending troops to put them down ; a mili
tary commandant is appointed to lead them, and a regiment or
two of soldiers are assembled at some agreeable town in the in
terior. Here the commandant establishes his headquarters,
never dreaming of troubling himself about the active part of
the campaign, but sends off his officers in quest of the savages ;
they march off to the frontier, and by means of scouts, get a
pretty good idea of the whereabouts of the Indians ; acting
upon which information,' they march in a contrary direction,
thus entirely avoiding any collision. After remaining out a
month or so, they march back to headquarters, with flaming
accounts of bloodless victories, gained beneath the banners of
the Mexican eagles. Dios y Kbertad ! and all of that ! ac
counts of which go the round of all Mexican newspapers, and
the Secretary of War forwards, by a special aid-de-camp, a
package of medals for the veterans, and legions of honor for the
officers. Ures, the capital of the state, is situated Very near the fron
tier, and is unimportant, excepting as being the seat of govern
ment. Alamos is the second city in size in the state, and is a
place of a great deal of wealth, there being extensive silver
mines in its immediate vicinity. It can boast of some beauty,
too, being half buried in orange groves, and presents a delight
ful appearance to the wearied traveller whose eyes, accustomed

MANIA FOR GAMBLING. 1S5
to the hot and mud-baked towns of the coast, feast themselves
upon the fresh luxuriance of its vegetation. The good folks of
Alamos are a very stay-at-home sort of people, who, instead of
going abroad to look for wives, have found sweethearts among
the beauties of their own town (indeed, they are said to be the
prettiest women in the whole republic), and have been in the
habit of doing this so long that they have all become nearly re
lated to each other ; in fact, the whole ten thousand are cou-
sius-german, and the result is (as is always the case where near
relatives marry and have issue), that there is an incredible
amount of deformity, blindness, and deafness, existing to an
alarming extent, while insanity and physical deformity are met
with at every step.
They are most desperate gamblers, but as they play among
themselves, and fairly, luck deserting at one time favors them
at another, so that they are not often ruined. A very wealthy
man was sitting one afternoon in front of his house, taking the
air, when he observed a pedlar, whom he knew very well, look
ing intently at his premises ; hailing him, he asked him what
he was about, and what new peculiarity he had discovered in
his mansion. " Oh !" said the man, " I was only thinking that
possibly some day this establishment may belong to me ; espe
cially as we Alamanians are very fond of cards, and luck often
favors the poor man:" Tickled with the man's effrontery, and
delighted to get some one to gamble with, he offered to lend
him ten dollars, if he would sit down and take a hand ; a pro
position no Mexican was ever known to refuse. At it they
went — they became very much excited — the pedlar won, won,
won, and wanted to leave off, but his opponent would not hear
of it, but insisted on doubling the stakes ; at it they kept until

186 FAMILY EXODUS.
daylight. The next morning the pedlar rose from the table a
winner of every cent the other possessed in the world — houses,
land, stock, everything.
The Indian ravages in this vicinity, likewise, are frightful ;
to illustrate which, I would remark, that an aunt of mine who
resided there, lost twenty near relatives by Indian assassina
tion ! brothers, cousins, sisters, aunts and uncles !
The northern portion of the state is particularly rich in
minerals, the gold and silver mines being exceedingly produc
tive ; there are also surface diggings which yield largely ; but,
unfortunately, the most valuable mining districts are in the
hands of the savages, who ruthlessly murder any white man who
ventures to approach them. The famous silver mine of Ari
zona, called "planchas de Plata," which may be rendered
"surfaces of silver," from its incredible wealth, is left un-
worked for fear of them.
A journey in the interior is an affair of great importance.
The old family coach, more like an ark than a vehicle, is rolled
out and furnished with all the requisites of pots and pans for
cooking, and bedding for sleeping ; for there are no inns on the
road. A troop of horses are driven in from the "labor" or
farm, and the family servants, some five or six in number, are
mustered and drilled in musket exercise. At the appointed
time, off they start ; the coach with three wheel horses and two
on the lead, all galloping and kicking to the extent of their
ability, the servants following on horseback, with carbines
slung, and their long spears with gay pennons fluttering ; while
all the dogs in the neighborhood swell the cavalcade, appa
rently with a bold resolve to accompany the expedition.
The instability of the government is proverbial ; but no one

POLITICS MADE EASY. 1S7
who has not resided in that delectable republic can form any
idea of the mode of its administration, or of the constant changes
to which it is subject. No state governor ever serves out his term
of office ; indeed, as a general thing, during the term for
which he is elected some four or five incumbents usually fill the
gubernatorial chair. A change of state government is always
accompanied by a local civil war. The aspirants for the gover
norship being, generally speaking, military men who have strong
influence in the state, they do not hesitate to back their preten
sions by an appeal to arms, which is as promptly responded to
by the opposite faction, and a bloodless war ensues ; marching
and counter-marching, and flourishes of trumpets being the or
der of the day, while the whole country is in a state of anarchy,
from there being no established head to execute the laws. The
mode of procedure in getting up a revolution is as follows : the
rival chief incites all friendly to him to revolt, and offers large
bribes to the subordinates of the opposite party ; when he
thinks himself sufficiently strong, he raises his standard, puts him
self at the head of his " mob," marches to the custom house or
public treasury, and takes possession of the public funds. He then
stations his men about the town, and, proclaiming martial law,
forbids any one leaving their houses. Then proceeding to the
public square, he causes to be read, amid the cheers of his ad
herents, the ringing of bells, etc., his pronunciamento or apology
for assuming the reins of government. He is then hailed as
a liberator and deliverer from bondage, and by this time, the
other party becoming infected, flock to his standard. This is
the modus operandi of all revolutionists — the "grand coup"
being the seizure of the treasure ; this done, the success is sure
to be complete, for the Mexicans can smell money as far as a

188 BRIBERY AND CORRUPTION.
rat can cheese. These little affairs are almost constantly
occurring. The administration of government in detail is most defective
in every branch, but in none more so than in the tribunals of
justice, venality being here a prominent attribute of the " blind
goddess." Indeed, the halls of justice are nothing more or less
than auction marts where favorable judgments are sold to the
highest bidder, and the judges, receiving their appointments'
through influence or bribery, and without regard to their legal
attainments, unblushingly make their price known in all cases
appearing before them. An example in point. At the port
of Mazatlan a cargo arrived from Europe, and insured there.
The vessel discharged, and everything turned out in first-
rate order ; but the merchant to whom it was consigned, not
content with an enormous profit, took it into his head to
defraud the underwriters, which he managed in this wise. ' He
went to the judge of the first instance (who, in absence of
a consul) certifies all foreign documents, and said to him : " I
want your signature to a protest, what will you charge for it 1"
"$3,000!" "Done — sign this, and here's the money." The
paper was a protest that damage to the amount of $30,000 had
been done to the cargo, and claiming damages to that amount.
The claim was allowed ; the underwriters mulcted to the tune
of $30,000, the merchant putting it into his pocket.
Judging from their attention to outward forms, one would
imagine the Mexicans, as a nation, to be the most devout in
the world, for there is not an hour of the day, or scarcely of
the night, when one is not reminded, either ocularly or auricu-
larly, of the celebration of some one of the services peculiar to
the Catholic Church. Awakened out of his soundest sleep by

BELLS, BELLS. 189
the deafening din of bells ringing for early mass at two o'clock
in the morning, ouo writhes uneasily, until his ears becoming
accustomed to the clamor, he again falls asleep, only to be
awakened by a repetition at sunrise, which continues for an
hour or so, accompanied by the explosion of some dozens
of rockets, which are sent up by way, I suppose, of boosting up
their prayers on their way to heaven. At twelve o'clock
another attack on the bells is commenced, which lasts for half
an hour, the heavier metal being swung on their axes, while
the lighter bells are beaten with stones or clubs. At six
o'clock the assault is again made, as a call to evening prayer,'
and during its continuance one must off hat and kneel, the
horseman must dismount, and go on his marrow-bones, while
the coachman must pull up at the sidewalk. At nme p-M->
the ringers make one final effort, which is called the Queda,
warning all honest folks to bed, like the old English curfew.
Of all nuisances in Mexico, this is one of the greatest. I my
self lived for two years within a few yards of five cracked bells,
which were performed upon by half a dozen Indian imps, who
were my utterest abomination. And it gives me sincere de
light to remember that no opportunity ever escaped me of
wreaking my vengeance upon them when I caught them with
out the precincts of the church. During the interval of the
bell-ringing, processions are continually passing, which, nolens
volens, one must kneel to, upon the pain of being stoned. In
Guaymas the respect paid to religion was not so extreme, pro
bably from the fact that there was only one priest, and he a
very young man, whose all-engrossing idea was to get money.
No one was ever married without bleeding pretty freely. In
deed I remember one instance, where a bridal party were

190 OUR PRIEST.
assembled and waiting for the priest, but he would not offi
ciate, as the fee (an unheard of one) was not all paid up, and
consequently, the party had to disperse, and the bride doff her
wedding attire.
The church itself was not half built, only sufficiently finished
to allow mass to be celebrated within its walls, notwithstanding
that a gentleman told me, who had charge of the church funds,
that there had been money enough subscribed to build half a
dozen churches, but that the priest had pocketed it all. The
little miscreant was one of the most oily-tongued rascals
that ever was seen ; butter wouldn't melt in his mouth ; it used
to be our delight to get him boosy — he would drop in at din
ner time. Ah Senor Cura (Mr. Priest) glad to see you, sit down,
take a bite with us. You really must excuse me — just dined.
Ah now, do. Cannot indeed. Nevertheless he always did, and
then such trencher performances never were seen. A glass of
wine, Senor Cura ? Excuse me, never drink any but sacramen
tal wine without spirits. But this has no strength. Well, if you
will have it, here goes. And although the strongest of port,
glass after glass disappears, gradually he becomes confidential,
offers to marry or bury us all for nothing ; says he wouldn't
object to us for a brother-in-law ; and finally, tells us of his
amours which we are dying to know ; next day he cuts us all.
His masses were amusing, the music being done by a band con
sisting of a trombone, bugle, clarionet and drum, played upon
by Indians; any air, it was all the same, polkas, Yankee doodle,
God save the queen, etc, being the ordinary accompaniments of
the chanted Psalter.
Marriages of foreigners with natives are a source of great
profit to the priest, who always makes the most of them.

, MARRIAGES AND FEES. 191
According to the ecclesiastical law of the country, no foreigner
can marry without first abjuring his faith (should he be a Pro
testant), taking the sacrament of the Catholic Church, and
going through a long and tedious formula, which can be inter
minably lengthened out, or cut short, according to the caprice
of the priest or amount of the bribe paid him, which must be
in proportion to the wealth of the groom ; several instances
occurred during my residence there. On one occasion: a young
doctor, an American (a great scamp, by the way, as almost
all Yankees styling themselves doctors in that country are),
became engaged to a very interesting and respectable young
lady ; his suit did not progress very favorably, to be sure, but
perseverance on his part, and strong natural affection on hers,
gave him the victory, and the parents becoming reconciled,
they gave a reluctant assent. The wedding preliminaries were
gone through with, the doctor abjured the Protestant belief,
took the sacrament and confessed his sins, the curate exacting
the most minute • proofs of his conversion, such as walking in
procession with the host, learning catechism, etc., on account of
a grudge he had against him for not marrying his own sister.
The day was fixed upon and the guests assembled, but lo ! the
priest did not make his appearance ; two hours passed by, and
the guests were on the point of taking leave of the unfortunate
bride who was fainting with chagrin, when in walked his
reverence and the ceremony was hurried through with. It
appears that the doctor was a few dollars short in his fee or
bribe, and the priest refused positively to stir a peg until the
whole amount was made up.
Feast days are innumerable; it would be useless to attempt
to chronicle them ; never a week passes without the cessation

192 HOLY WEEK.
of business, for at least one day ; foreigners, however, braving
public opinion, only observed the principal ones. The holy-
week is celebrated in Sonora with great pomp and merits des
cription. On Holy-Thursday the ball opens, all business must be sus
pended, no vehicles are allowed in the streets, fastings must be
observed, no animal food being permitted in the markets. The
whole community clothe themselves in black, in grief for the
approaching death of Christ ; the churches are open night and
day, and masses and prayers without intermission are cele
brated ; constant processions, headed by priests and followed
by the whole community bare-headed, perambulate the towns,
chanting hymns, halting every few steps and going down on
their knees while the host is elevated before them. On Thurs
day night, torch-light processions again take place. Friday
morning opens with awful solemnity ; the ships in the harbor
half-mast their flags, cock-bill their yards (nautical type of
mourning), while the church bells are silenced, being supplanted
by an instrument called a tric-trac, making a noise correspond
ing to its name, and which is shaken about the town as a sig
nal that church services are about to commence. All must
dress in deepest mourning ; at mid-day our Saviour is formally
crucified before the assembled multitude, none of the revolting
features of the real sacrifice being omitted. Prayers intermin
able are followed by a sermon, only remarkable for its absurd
ity, and impiety. Somewhat in this wise was one that I heard.
After a long, and as the priest no doubt thought, a very elo
quent peroration relating to the passion of our Saviour, he
wound up with the following adjuration :
" My brethren, in spite of my having depicted to you in the

PENITENTIAL TEARS. 193
most vivid colors the sufferings of our dear Lord, you show no
sign of sorrow ! not a moistened eye, or a stifled groan !
Had a pet dog so suffered, would you not have wept ? Still,
here your Lord and Saviour is lacerated and torn, and you
exhibit no signs of sympathy. Ungrateful wretches ! what
will become of you ?" This was enough ; the whole, multitude
sent up the most outrageous wail, groanings- and tearing of
hair "were the order of things for an hour or more. After
endless services, the evening and night of Good .Friday is
devoted to torch-light processions, in which the penitents take
a prominent part. These are people, who, having been sinning
the whole year hope for expiation through self-torture. Some
bind huge wooden crosses to their backs, and drag them
around for hours, in the line of procession. Others bind crowns
of thorns upon their heads, every step they take blood exuding
from their pierced brows ; others are bound with huge chains,
while others, naked, are followed by scourgers, their backs a
mass of blood and gore. I have seen delicate women fainting .
by the wayside under the cruel pressure of the cross, and stal
wart men fall apparently lifeless, under the hand of their
scourgers — so blind is faith 1 Saturday morning opens with
like solemnity, and until noon the mournful services continue ;
then the Lord is raised from the tomb in which he has been
deposited, and all is joy again. The bells ring forth joyful
acclamations ; the ships in the harbor right their colors, and
booming guns show their participation in the general joy, and
all the world goes on te sin again. The gambler and the
harlot dry up their penitential wounds and busily resume their
avocations. People living in Europe or America, on changing their resi-
9

194 QUACK DOCTORS.
dence from the populous city to the rural districts, make.it a
great desideratum in locating, that there should be a good phy
sician somewhere in the vicinity. Accustomed to these civilized
prejudices, I was very much astonished to learn that in Guay
mas there was neither physician nor apothecary, nor indeed
had there ever been one permanently located there, if we
except a few quacks who had honored the place with their
presence, where, after having killed rather more than their
quota, they usually fled to parts unknown to escape the sum
mary vengeance of the populace. I was very much surprised
at the sang-froid of my uncle in view of the breaking out of
the cholera which took place shortly after my arrival, as it was
only fair to surmise that in its violence, some one of the many
members of his family would be liable to an attack. Cholera
at any time carries a feeling of horror with it, but more espe
cially in small communities where every -victim is known ; but
in this instance, from its extreme fatality, was more particu
larly to be dreaded. The heat — which was most intense —
from an absence of electricity with which the atmosphere is
generally filled at this season of the year, produced a feeling
of lassitude which was particularly favorable to the spread of
the contagion, and spread it did in a manner most terrific.
No hour of the day or night passed but what some one of
the rapidly diminishing population was prostrated in the dust.
No one could be found who would voluntarily bury the dead,
so great was the fear of infection 1 the ordinary grave-diggers
recoiling from a task which might make them the next victim ;
consequently, persons passing along the street were, unceremo
niously, and to their great horror, pressed into the service at
the point of the bayonet. Coffins there were none — the mode

HORRORS OF THE CHOLERA. 195
of procedure being : immediately a person breathed his last
or was supposed to be dead, his two hands were tied together
at the wrists, and his legs at the ankles ; a pole was then
thrust through the nooses so formed, and two men shoulder
ing the pole, then bore him off to the Campo- Santo and
pitched him into a sort of ditch formed for the purpose. I
remember at the height of the epidemic, lying ill on my cot of
a fever which was raging at the same time — it was at mid-day
— the sun was glaring its fiercest, when two Indians came along
bearing a corpse on their shoulders. Arriving in front of our
house, and peering about the deserted street to see that no one
was observing them, they coolly deposited the putrefying body
on the balcony in front of my window, and were in the act of
marching off, when a shout and the sight of a rifle (unloaded
by the way), quickly checked their progress. Sullenly return
ing, they again hoisted the dead man upon their shoulders and
trotted off towards the burying-ground, cursing their luck, pro
bably wishing in their hearts that the Scripture command, " let
the dead bury their dead," might be carried into practical
effect. The fever with which I was lying ill appeared simultaneously
with the cholera, and not a creature escaped it. Ours was a
deserted village indeed; for hours one could look up and down
the streets, and not see a living soul. All business was at a
stand still; not a shop was open, and many a poor devil died
from sheer want of a drop of water to drink; all the water-
carriers being down, there was no means of getting it by the
poor. In our own immediate family, some fifteen were down at
once. No food was cooked for a fortnight, our only nourish
ment being a little gruel and tamarind-water. As I lay with a

196 EFFECTS OF. ELECTRICITY
burning fever in that furnace-like atmosphere, with no other
sound, day or night, than the solemn tread of the corpse-bear
ers, as they hurried past with their ghastly burdens, my
thoughts wandered to the cool shades and sympathetic faces of
home and friends, and a shudder would pass over me as I
thought of the possibility of adding one to the putrefying deni
zens of that awful grave-ditch yawning in the distance. The
atmosphere was dull and heavy during all this time, to an ex
treme never before known, and it was confidently surmised that
a thunder-storm would quickly dispel the poison — the electri
city purifying the air. Every little fleecy cloud was hailed as
the precursor of a squall; and at last it came, but not before a
thousand bodies, nearly the half of our population, were laid
beneath the hot sand of the Campo-Santo. A severe storm
arose, accompanied by the most terrific lightning, and with the
first flash was a reprieve, and at its conclusion not a vestige of
the destroyer remained. A singular fact, interesting to sci
ence, connected with this : — a large horse-shoe magnet, of
great power, hung in the counting-room of one of our largest
merchants; at the breaking out of the epidemic, the magnet
ceased to attract, and the steel bar fell to the ground. Dur
ing its whole continuance, its power was neutralized; but imme
diately on its dying out, the magnet again regained its wonted
powers, and the steel clung with its former tenacity.
Guaymas was, after all, as jolly a little place as I know of
anywhere. There is an uncommon unanimity existing in all
appertaining to fun or frolic, in the way of balls, prc-nics, and
parties, scarcely a week passing without something of the kind
occurring, every one entering con amore into the spirit of these
affairs, where, although there is nothing very elaborate in their

BALLS AFLOAT,

197

getting up, still they answer very well for all purposes of di
version. Sunday, of course, as in all Spanish countries, is
devoted to gaiety. Mass being concluded, the young ladies
open their saloons, the beaux visiting around from house to
house; a guitar or a piano is sure to be standing open, and two
or three meeting together, a dance is at once improvised.
English men-of-war make periodical visits to the harbor
three or four times a year, and during their presence convivi
ality reigns supreme. Their officers, relieved from the mono
tony of the sea, are ripe for enjoyment, and liberal in their scale
of entertainment. General invitations to come on board each
afternoon, and more formal ones for dinners and balls, are fre
quently issued. Balls on shipboard are very different from the
so-styled affairs ashore, and are particularly esteemed by the
young lady portion of the community. The idea of shining be
fore foreign beaux, and making conquests of a gringo, would in
itself be deKghtful, not to mention the frolic of embarkation in
small-boats, where all are huddled together so unceremoniously,
quite in contravention to the strict laws of Spanish etiquette.
Indeed, it was a strange sight to see the demure-looking dam
sels of yesterday, to-day escaped from duenna thraldom, and
crowded promiscuously into the sternrsheets of a frigate's cut
ter, a fluttering mass of dark eyes, glossy tresses, and flashing
silks, relieved by the gold lace and flaxen locks of their naval
admirers, who, nothing loth on the score of propinquity, were
availing themselves of the opportunity never suffered to pass
unimproved by those gentry, of making fierce love to every
young lady in their immediate vicinity.
A frigate's deck, canopied with the flags of every nation,
lighted up by a hundred battle-lanterns, whose uncertain rays

198 WE KEEP IT UP.
flickering in the breeze, revealing but indistinctly the dusky
forms of the long black guns, also exposing the cloud-like dra
pery of the young girls gracefully reclining against them, offers
no mean substitute for a ball-room. All conventionalities are
at once thrown aside, gaily and merrily the moments fly — what
though the music be performed by sailor amateurs — what mat
ter if the holy-stoned decks be a little sandy, the very zest of
the thing is its novelty, and daylight generally looks in upon
an affair which is always a success. Then comes the return
home in the chill -morning air; the light drapery of the girls is
covered by the rough boat-cloaks of the officers, all crowding
together in the different boats, and during the pull shoreward,
many a sly squeeze of the hand is given and returned, and
many a vow exchanged. If my own memory does not deceive,
I can recall more than one instance where a light and lovable
form shared my rough capote, the beating of whose heart, and
the flashing of whose eyes, told me that many such voyages
would be mutually dangerous to our peace of mind. Of course
the civilities of shipboard are returned, and with interest,
ashore ; and thus, during the stay of the vessel, the town is in a
constant state of excitement.
It was a matter of astonishment to me, here at the very fag-
end of creation, to find the young girls so exceedingly lady
like, displaying such good taste in dress, and so completely au
fait, in the accomplishments of the day ; no late European
dance but what they were familiar with, and the generality of
them played the piano and harp with exceeding taste. The
mode of dress with them is European, modified to suit the exi
gencies of the hot climate ;' the only nationality in dress, is the
reboza, a long shawl, which is worn by every Mexican woman

KIND FRIENDS. 199
over her shoulders, the end gracefully falling 'over an arm
when in the house, and over the head and face, exposing
oftentimes only the eye, when in the street.
Their education is extremely defective, but their irie"xhausti-
ble spirits, their quick perception of the ridiculous, their love
of quizzing, and their gentle, affectionate manner, make them
agreeable companions for any one.
After having been some six months in the country, from an
intensity of application, and an inordinate use of stimulants to
keep me up, under the depressing influence of the heat, I was
attacked with a severe malady, which completely prostrated
me, confining me to my bed for months, during which time,
however, I was nursed with the tenderest care by my rela
tives ; the recollection of whose unwearied kindness causes sen
timents of the deepest gratitude to arise within me. In our
household, no word of English was spoken, and therefore it
was impossible not to have acquired the language, and although
it seemed strange at first, on returning to consciousness after
a severe attack, to hear my nurse soothing me in a foreign
tongue, yet, in a short time it became so familiar to me, that
my thoughts would inadvertently clothe themselves in the
Spanish idiom.
My illness was a protracted and painful one, but as soon as
I could with safety be moved, I was taken to a place called
Cochori, a perfect little paradise, an oasis in the desert. Di
rectly open to the sea, with a strong, surf breaking upon a fine
sand beach, it was the summer resort of one or two families
who had built residences there, for the purpose of enjoying the
fine fruit and bathing. Being offered the use of one of these
summer palaces, we forthwith ensconced ourselves • the

200 AN INVALID
whole place was one vast fruit orchard ; long avenues of fig
trees, whose fruit was bursting in luscious maturity, immense
graperies, whose white and purple clusters, hung in graceful
festoons, while delicious guavas, mellow and golden, sent forth
their almost overpowering incense, at the feet of the huge,
oriental-looking date trees, whose feathery branches slowly
waved against the deep blue sky.
My diet was to be strictly a vegetable one, and for weeks I
kept it up, and at the end of that time was a new man. An
old Indian major domo, awakened us at early dawn, when
springing out of bed, we jumped into the surf ; exhila
rated, we entered our garden, where a rustic table was spread
out with clusters of blushing grapes, with the dew glistening
upon them ; figs, whose distended skins were bursting with very
plumpness, with an infinite variety of smaller fruit, and large
basins of rich milk. Our hunger, sharpened by our bath, be
ing appeased, we sought our hammocks, so hung as to catch
the sea breeze, and thus, partly reading and partly dozing, we
passed the heat of the day.
At sunset we sallied forth, and sauntered through the gardens,
inhaling the rich perfumes, oftentimes most overpowering, and
listening to the vesper songs of the bright plumaged-birds.
After an evening meal, we would stroll down to the beach,
and for hours beneath the moon's soft rays, and soothed
by the surf's musical roar, our thoughts would wander home
ward among the haunts of boyhood, till rendered melancholy,
we would summon one of our little Indian household, to strike
up on the rude banjo some lively strain of the country.
Previous to the discovery of gold in California, the state of
Sonora was unknown to all the world outside of the Mexican

A DESERTED PARADISE. 201
Republic ; and even that government never recognized its exis
tence, save when wanting to provide a lucrative berth for some
importunate politician, or wanted to get rid of somewhat too
popular a soldier, it appointed the one Collector for the Port
of Guaymas, or the other Commander-General of that state.
During the rule of the Spaniard, agriculturists, attracted
by the richness of its soil (capable of returning five hundred
fold the labor expended upon it), protected by government
troops, penetrated the Indian wilds, each step opening to them
a very terrestrial paradise. Secure in the protection of govern
ment, the land was tilled, towns built up, and a chain of out
posts established, such as kept the savage in check. Since
the throwing off of the Spanish yoke, the central government,
consumed by feuds, and administered with the most bare-faced
corruption, has totally neglected the more remote states,
and only acknowledges them when wishing to make levies
upon their treasuries. The settlers, unprotected, constantly
harassed by hostile tribes, who carried off their cattle, fired
their dwellings, and committed the most horrible atrocities upon
their families, at last gave way before them, and in a few
years the Apaches and Comanches had overrun the most
beautiful and most productive portion of northern Mexico.
Troops were occasionally sent, and some turbuleut general
put in command, with orders to pursue and exterminate the
Indians ; but the Apache was more than a match for the
Mexican soldier, and the general, knowing this, never engaged
them ; but, instead of endeavoring to protect the suffering
people against their incursions, usually assuming the supreme
power, laid the very people whom he was sent to relieve under
contribution. 9*

202 COUNT RAOUSSET.
It was enough to make one's blood boil, to see those beautiful
plains a vast solitude — extensive ranchos abandoned and unin
habited, and villages in ruins. Travelling for a hundred miles in
the very heart of this natural paradise, one may not meet a
human being, though on every side he may see fine habitations
lying waste ; indeed, for a space of eight superficial degrees in
North Sonora, there is not an inhabitant. Droves of horses and
wild cattle, remnants of the beautiful herds of the last gene
ration — ruined dwellings — ruined forts — ruined churches — and,
hovering upon the borders of this desert, ruined men who
tremble, and ruined women who mourn — tell the tale of a cor
rupt and impotent government.
No sooner had the intense excitement in the search of gold
subsided in California, than the turbulent spirits of that coun
try began to turn their attention thither ; and many projects
were formed for organizing companies, obtaining grants from
Mexico, and taking possession of this abandoned country.
In the year 1851-2, a Frenchman by the name of Pindray
formed an association of four hundred of his countrymen, for
the purpose of exploring and colonizing the frontier, and pro
ceeded to Guaymas, and from thence into the interior ; but its
members becoming disaffected, a dissolution took place, and many
of the adventurers returned to California, while others remained
in the country, following their different callings. About this
time, a young French nobleman, belonging to one of the oldest
families of the ancienne noblesse, and an officer of some distinc
tion in one of the African regiments, came to California to seek
his fortune, which had been impaired by the overthrow of the
Orleans family. After several months spent in severe labor to
gain his bread, this young officer conceived the idea of a mili-

MEXICAN INTRIGUE. 203
tary expedition into northern Sonora, to be conducted with the
connivance of the Mexican government, for the purpose of
founding a French colony, and, by expelling the savages, to
regain possession of that valuable domain. Making known his
views to the French consul, M. Dillon, he found them warmly
seconded by that official, who furnished him with passports and
letters to the French minister in the city of Mexico.
Arriving there, he was warmly received by Mr. Levasseur;
the French minister, who entered with enthusiasm into all his
plans, and induced the kindly interference of the Mexican pre
sident, Arista.
Through the mediation of the minister, the wealthy house of
Yecker, Torre & Co. became interested; and a company was
formed under the title of the " Restauradora;" of which Yecker,
Torre & Co., of Mexico, Aguilar, governor, and Cubillas, pro
visional governor of Sonora, and Jose Calvo, French consul at
Guaymas, were the principal directors ; the agreements being
regularly drawn up and signed by Manuel Arista, President of
the Mexican Republic. Armed with this instrument, Count
Raousset de Boulbon made the best of his way back to Califor
nia, enlisted two hundred and seventy Frenchmen, and embarked
them for Guaymas, where they arrived in June, 1852.
In the interim, it becoming known that the valuable mines
of Arizona had been ceded to Count Raousset and his asso
ciates, on his fulfilling certain conditions: a strong feeling of
jealousy sprang up in the capital at his success, and intrigues
were soon set on foot to mar his enterprise, in order that
others might enjoy its benefits. The house of Barron, Forbes
& Co., one of the largest concerns in Mexico, formed a league,
at the head of which was General Blanco, who, through politi-

204 MEXICAN INTRIGUE.
cal influence, was at at once appointed commander-in-chief of
the state of Sonora, whither he at once repaired with his
troops, with directions from the new league to throw every
impediment in the way of Count Raousset and of his company.
Finding that this new company possessed more means and
influence than the Restauradora, the two governors of Sonora,
Agiiilar and Cubillas, and the French consul at Guaymas,
Calvo, joined the new company (styled the Barron Company),
thus deserting the old one ; of this, of course, all but themselves
were ignorant. A most iniquitous breach of faith ! but such
things are thought to be matters of course in Mexico.
The count, to his surprise (being in utter ignorance of the
machinations of his supposed friends), found, on his arrival,
that every impediment was thrown in the way of his marching
into the interior. Meanwhile, General Blanco having arrived,
openly forbid the count from moving towards the frontier.
Raousset, ignorant of General Blanco's interested motives in
thus attempting to thwart him, and secure in the assurances of
support from the president and from the Sonorian, authorities,
and tired of being humbugged'by the intriguing general, pushed
forward his men and gained the frontier. Contrary to his
well-founded expectations, instead of being supported by the
authorities, every obstacle was thrown in his way, and being
encamped on the frontier, instead of receiving the promised
rations for the support of his troops, they were obliged to
forage for themselves, and to appropriate, vi et armis, the
necessaries of life. Meanwhile General Blanco, nettled at the
pertinacity of the Frenchmen, threw off all disguise, and com
menced such a series of persecutions that the hot blood of the
Algerine soldier, revolting at their continued insults and bad

A FRENCH HERO. 205
faith, resolved upon taking the field, and openly defying the
whole Mexican force. This was a daring step, with a force of
270 men to brave a thousand regulars, and a whole host of
Indians and volunteers ; but nothing daunted, the count, order
ing his men to-fall in, at once commenced his march on Hcr-
mosillo, the capital of the' state, and the head-quarters of Gen
eral Blanco.
Arriving before the capital, a deputation under a white flag
waited upon him, composed of several of the principal men of
the city, bearing proposals from the Mexican general, which
were insulting to French pride and French understanding.
Listening coldly to their arguments, the count pulled out his
watch — it was 8 o'clock. In two hours, he replied in a loud
voice, I shall enter Hermosillo, and at eleven o'clock precisely
I shall be master of the city !
True to his word, in two hours his little force were fighting
desperately in the streets, each man seemingly possessed of the
spirit of ten other men combined. In spite of volley upon vol
ley of musketry from housetops, and from behind old walls,
loop-holed for the purpose, in spite of a tremendous cannonade
which raked the streets at every angle, the gallant count led
his brave handful step by step to the centre of the town ; he
seemingly, bore a charmed life, for, mounted on his gallant
white charger, he rode undisturbedly through a shower of balls,
which, riddling his hat and clothes, left his person unscathed.
Like sheep he drove the Indians and volunteers before him,
and the regulars, under Blanco, soon gave way, and in the
incredibly short space of one hour from the time of their
entrance, that heroic little band had subjugated a city of
15,000 inhabitants, garrisoned by 1,000 regulars and hordes of

206 A SECOND ATTEMPT.
savages. The French suffered severely in their officers, and
lost in all 17 men killed and 25 wounded.
Unfortunately, and fatally I may say for the interest of his
company, the count was attacked by a violent illness which for
months incapacitated him for command. Meanwhile, deprived
of their master spirit, the company accepted of a proposition
from the Mexican general for an armistice, and ultimately a
treaty was entered into, whereby the French were guaranteed
a safe conduct to the port, a gratuity of $40,000, and a free
passage to San Francisco. This ended the first act.
Raousset becoming convalescent during the voyage, arrived
in San Francisco in good health, and was there received as a
hero, 'feted and lauded on every hand.
Internal troubles now convulsed Mexico. Arista, the presi
dent, was deposed, and Santa Anna recalled.
Hopes were now held out to the count that the new
administration would do him justice, and reinstate him in
his claims. Hastening thither with all speed, he met with
the most flattering reception from Santa Anna, and was the lion
of the capital — the hero of Hermosillo. The count had several
interviews with the president, who promised him everything — •
but never performed — and at length, disgusted with delays, he
sought a final interview, and bluntly demanded his rights.
After backing and filling for some time, the president, at last,
told him that public opinion was strong against any renewal of
the grant, and that he did not care to oppose himself to it,
but that he would be too happy if Monsieur Le Compte would
serve under him, insinuating that, in that case, he would
receive a staff appointment. The count, disgusted with his
duplicity, refused to serve under him, and abruptly left the

NEW EXPEDITION. 207
capital and returned to California. Exasperated, he entered
into correspondence with some parties in Mexico, which corres
pondence handled the executive without gloves, and the docu
ments falling into the hands of government, the count was
declared an outlaw, and was forbidden to set foot again on
Mexican soil.
Meanwhile, the opposition, or Barron company, were in the
ascendency, and orders were given to the Mexican consul in
San Francisco to enlist 2,000 French, as military colonists in
Sonora, their expenses to be paid by the Mexican government.
800 men were enlisted and embarked aboard the American ship
" Challenge," for Guaymas.
Although the directors of this company were inimical to
the count, and watched his movements with suspicion, never- -
theless he had a secret understanding with the principal officers
of the expedition, and it was arranged that he was to join
them . after their arrival in Sonora. This was, of course,
.entirely unknown to the Mexicans. Some ten days after the
sailing of the " Challenge," the count, escaping surveillance,
embarked in a little schooner and arrived safely off Guaymas.
The new expedition having arrived at their destination were
quartered ashore, and for a few days all went on pleasantly.
Soon the Mexicans began to show their cloven-foot; they were
exposed to no end of petty annoyances ; their rations were kept
back, and at last the Mexican general insisted upon their re
linquishing their nationality, and enlisting under the Mexican
standard. The French, disgusted with this treatment, became
turbulent, and brawls ensued between themselves and the
townspeople. Things gradually grew worse until at last the Mexican gene-

208 VIVE LA FRANCE.
rai presented his ultimatum in shape of instant enlistment un
der Mexican colors, or forcible expulsion from the territory.
At this juncture the count appeared on the tapis, and was
hailed as a deliverer ; he made his countrymen a short speech,
showing them the duplicity of the Mexicans, and wound up thus :
" My friends," he said in an electrifying voice, "I do not
come here to influence any one — you are free to choose ; but
understand me, it is necessary to side one way or the other. .
Will you become Mexican soldiers, ruled by its military code,
submissive to its rod, without future or without hope ? — If so,
say the word and ground your arms. If, on the contrary, you
wish to remain worthy of the name of Frenchmen — to resist
unjust oppression — to vindicate your rights — maintain your
violated nationality, signify your wishes by shouldering arms !
Which shall it be ?" " March on !" they cry. " Think well
of it — you are isolated in a far-off land, in drawing your sword
you become outlaws, there is neither grace nor pardon left.
In this case you must be conquerers, there will be no alterna
tive ! What will you do in case of defeat ?" " Die ! die I"
they cried. " Well ! well ! my friends — March on — and ' Vive
la France.' "
Insane applause followed this order, and the troops insisted
upon his assuming the chief command. " No, no," replied the
count, " you have your officers, obey them implicitly, I come
among you only as a volunteer, my only ambition being to be
in the first rank, at the point of danger !"
The battalion marched out of their barracks, and fire opened
simultaneously from both sides ; the Mexicans were posted
on the housetops, and the streets were swept by their artillery.
The commander of the French, not a man of much military

TREACHERY. 209
talent, lost his presence of mind ; disorder soon ensued. The
count tried to re-form the men while a few rifle-men decimat
ed the Mexican artillery, but in vain — all was confusion — and
officers and men all fought on their own responsibility ; thus a
guerilla warfare was maintained for two hours, the count being
unsuccessful in concentrating more than twenty men at any one
time, and then too late, he saw his error in refusing the com-
mandership-in-chief. From some mistake the Mexican guns were silenced, and the
count essayed a last effort. " Give them the bayonet," he cried,
and rushed forward, several men following him. Springing
on top of a wall exposed to the whole fury of the enemy's
fire, he cried for the last time, " Forward ;" his hat was riddled,
and he received two thrusts of a bayonet.
With fifty men he would have gained the day, but unsup
ported he had to yield.
A retreat was effected to the French consulate — and the
vice-consul offered all who would lay down their arms the pro
tection of the French flag.
" Wilt you guarantee the life of Count Raousset ? without
that assurance we will not surrender." Mr. Calvo stretched
forth his hand and in a clear loud voice exclaimed, " Mon
sieur Raousset aussi aura la vie sauvee." Thus terminated
the Battle of Guaymas.
After an interval of ten days — during which time the French
were in daily expectation of being shipped off — contrary to the
promise of the vice-consul, the Count Raousset was arraigned
before a Mexican council of war — tried — and condemned to be
executed. His countrymen were aghast ; and even the Mexicans shud-

210 POOR RAOUSSET.
dered at such a palpable breach of faith. Every effort was
made to induce the vice-consul, Mr. Calvo, to insist upon the
prisoner being taken to the capital, and there being tried — if
trial he must have — but of no avail. Calvo, a Mexican by
birth, and a partner of Cuvillas and related to Aguilar, the
governor and vice-governor of the state, and, together with
them, a director in the " Barron Company," had no sympathy,
or dared not show any, with the poor friendless Frenchman, and
did not exert the official influence he was possessed of to
endeavor to get a commutation of his punishment. And alas !
on the 12th of August, in presence of the whole populace, and
of several regiments of the Mexican army, he was led to the
place of execution. His sentence being read, placing his hat
upon the ground, and addressing the Mexican soldiers, he cried
in a firm, cheerful voice : " Allons, mes braves I Do your duty ;
fire true — aim at the heart.'' He folded his arms upon his
chest, made one step forward, and awaited his fate. A volley
rattled past him, and he fell on his face- — dead !
Thus perished, in the prime of life, a young man of high
promise, a victim of Mexican intrigue. His judges \vere low,
vulgar men, who could have no sympathy with the high-bred
gentleman of the ancien regime — Colonel Campuzano, a vil
lainous and notoriously cowardly half-breed, who, for the last
quarter of a century, has left no opportunity unimproved for
plundering the citizens ; Isidro Campos, a stupid old Indian,
who, always drunk, boasted of his exploits beneath the Mexican
banner. Not a man, probably, assisted at his execution but
who, politically and morally, better deserved death than the
poor Raousset.
During the interval of the first and last expedition of Count

GEN. WALKER. 21 1
Raousset, one William Walker, a native of Tennessee, and for
some years previously a resident of San Francisco, and the
editor of the Herald newspaper, being fired with military
ardor, and with a desire to appropriate some of the rich but
neglected districts of Mexico, resolved upon organizing a force
sufficient for the accomplishment of so laudable a design, and
with characteristic energy, exerted himself so successfully, that
in an incredibly short space of time he obtained the necessary
means for taking the initiatory steps. Having formed his
plans, he, in company with a gentleman who became interested
with him financially, took passage for, and arrived in due
course of time at Guaymas, and applied at the American con
sulate for the necessary documents to enable himself and suite
to pass into the interior, for the purpose of " spying out the
land." Unfortunately for Mr. Walker, his scheme had been
divined by the shrewd consul of Mexico at San Francisco, and
he, by a previous vessel, had advised the authorities at Guay
mas not to permit Mr. Walker upon any pretext to visit the
interior, as he purposed doing so with treasonable designs.
Of all this the American consul was in the most happy igno
rance, and, of course, as in duty bound, he espoused Mr. W.'s
cause, as he could see no reason why an American gentleman
should not be permitted to penetrate as far into the state as he
chose to do. A voluminous correspondence ensued between the
authorities and the consul, very decided on both sides, and
consuming much valuable time, but all to no purpose ; and
Mr. Walker becoming disgusted, reembarked for San Fran
cisco. During the brief. visit of this afterwards-noted filibuster, the
writer had an opportunity of seeing a good deal of him, and

212 THE GREAT FILIBUSTER.
became greatly impressed with his astuteness and determined
character ; for although sanguine in temperament, and insanely
confident of success, still he evinced such an extreme degree
of caution as almost- to disarm the suspicions of the Mexicans
themselves before leaving them.
To have looked at William Walker, one could scarcely have
credited him to be the originator and prime mover of so des
perate an enterprise as the invasion of the state of Sonora.
His appearance was that of anything else than a military
chieftain. Below the medium height, and very slim, I should
hardly imagine him to weigh over a hundred pounds. His hair
light and towy, while his almost white eyebrows and lashes
concealed a seemingly pupilless, grey, cold eye, and his face was
a mass of yellow freckles, the whole expression very heavy.
His dress was scarcely less remarkable than his person. His
head was surmounted by a huge white fur hat, whose long
knap waved with the breeze, which, together with a very ill-
made short-waisted blue coat, with gilt buttons, and a pair of
grey, strapless pantaloons, made up the ensemble of as unpre
possessing-looking a person as one would meet in a day's walk.
I will leave you to imagine the figure he cut in Guaymas with
the thermometer at 100°, when every one else was arrayed in
white. Indeed half the dread which the Mexicans had of
filibusters vanished, when they saw this their Grand Sachem,
— such an insignificant-looking specimen. But any one who
estimated Mr. Walker by his personal appearance, made a
great mistake. Extremely taciturn, he would sit for an hour
in company without opening his lips ; but once interested, he
arrested your attention with the first word he uttered, and as
he proceeded, you felt convinced that he was no ordinary

CONSULAR INTERFERENCE. 213
person. To a few confidential friends he was most enthusiastic
upon the subject of his darling project, but outside of those
immediately interested, he never mentioned the topic.
Returning from Mexico to California and nettled at the
opposition he there met with, he at once hoisted his filibuster
ing banner, and the work of enlistment went on very rapidly ;
every ruined gambler, outlaw, and used-up person in California
flocking to his standard.
Meanwhile the Mexican consul in San Francisco was on the
qui vive, and took all measures in his power to thwart the
accomplishment of the filibuster's design, but all to no purpose
for public opinion was decidedly in favor of the scheme.
A brig was purchased, and laden with provisions, and all
needful for the undertaking, and was about being dispatched,
when through representations of the Mexican consul she was
seized by government ; but after considerable litigation was
again released, and immediately dispatched by her agents, lest
a second time she should fall into the hands of the Philistines.
Having succeeded in getting off the supplies for the army,
the general was at a loss to know how he was to convey
his troops to their destination, for the Mexican consul, now
thoroughly awakened, had insisted upon the authorities taking
the most stringent measures, and consequently the general was
non-plused as to how he was to embark a number of men with
all their arms and equipage without being discovered.
In his quandary, he made a proposal to the captain of the
" Caroline," a Mexican bark, belonging to the son of the
American consul at Guaymas, that he should receive on board,
his two hundred men, without arms or munitions of war, merely
as passengers, and conveying them tb a small port on the edge

214 BARK CAROLINE.
of the Mexican boundary line, there disembark them, and
then proceed on his voyage, thus violating no law. The cap
tain, seeing no prospect of a freight and anxious to make a
good thing, accepted Walker's proposal, and in order to save
annoyance from the authorities, agreed to receive the men at
midnight, and having a tug alongside immediately to go to
sea. There is but little doubt that the captain of the vessel knew
perfectly well the object of the expedition, but. he could see no
violation of Mexican or American law, in receiving 200
passengers for a port outside of Mexican territory. At mid
night however of the day appointed for sailing, he saw his error,
for instead of two hundred peaceful passengers, two hundred
organized men, in squads of twenty, came down aboard the ves
sel armed to the teeth, and without ado forthwith took posses
sion, and at once commenced taking aboard large quantities of
guns and ammunition. .When all was arranged, under cover of
night, the vessel was cast off and the tug coming alongside ran
her out of the harbor under the very bows of a revenue vessel
appointed to watch her. To make a long story short, these
desperadoes took possession of the ship, and arriving in the
gulf of California, took her into La Paz, and disembarking
their men and " materiel," left her in charge of the mate and
one or two men, as a refuge in case of defeat. The mate not
liking the new regime, at the risk of his life, with the assistance
of the two men left behind, got the vessel under way in the
night, and leaving the filibusters to their fate, stretched across
the Gulf to Guaymas, to deliver her up to the owners.
Immediately on his arrival, the Mexican authorities, instead of
thanking him for thus cutting off the retreat of the filibusters,

RESULT OF THE EXPEDITION. 215
threw him into prison, and confiscated the ship, and ordered
the consul forthwith to leave the town ! — rather a high-handed
measure, considering he was absolutely innocent of even a
knowledge of the schemes of the filibusters, and moreover was
personally unpopular with them for not being willing to coun
tenance their original schemes.
Meanwhile, such representations were made to the American
minister at the capital regarding his complicity, that the
consul was at once removed from an office which he had filled
for thirty years, and for which services he had never received a
single penny — on the contrary, spending at least five hundred
dollars yearly in giving aid to distressed Americans. Thus the
American government pays' her faithful servants !
But to return to Walker — his campaign is now a matter of
history ; his troops, made up of the worst material of Cali-
fornians, were neither soldiers nor brave men, and consequently,
in contending with the large odds brought against them, were
invariably beaten, and at last, ignominiously driven out of the
country. Walker himself showed a thorough contempt for
danger, and great energy, but no generalship ; some of his
officers and troops were high-toned gentlemen and brave men,
but thrown in among such a set as formed the greater part of
the expedition, they could not redeem its character ; and thus
ended Walker's first grand filibustering expedition.
Anxiously as the eyes of the Americans are directed to
that portion of Mexican territory lying between the twenty-
fourth and twenty-eighth degree of north latitude, and more
particularly that section comprising the states of Lower Cali
fornia and Sonora, it might not be inappropriate here to give
some facts respecting their resources.

216 RICHES OF SONORA.
Sonora is the richest of these provinces, for although its
surface is extremely mountainous, still, intersecting these.
ranges, are broad and fertile valleys, well watered with never-
failing springs, and wooded with superb forests.
Here, growing side by side, may be found the productions
of the torrid and temperate zones — fields of wheat and sugar
cane, and the vine and the orange tree may be seen blossoming
at the same moment, with the cotton plant, which is indigenous
to the bottoms along the rivers Gila and San Pedro. Every
metal precious and useful have been thrown pell-mell from the
burning furnace of the Sierra. Silver as well as gold is found
in its virgin state, and in masses ; the very marble is veined
with gold, and the stones themselves* sweat with quicksilver.
With a seaboard of 500 miles on the Gulf of California,
its ports are those through which must necessarily pass all
its own imports and exports, and those of that immense tract
of country, comprising the states of Durango and of Chihuahua.
When we take into consideration these vast tracts of country
of unheard of fertility, abounding in mineral wealth, the extent
of which we dare not dream, utterly devastated and given
over to wandering tribes of savages, does not the certainty
suggest itself to our mind, that before many years the Ameri
can people, proverbially ambitious and restless as they are,
will spread themselves over this hidden paradise, and, driving
out the Indians, will, in defiance of Mexico, and whether or
not protected by our own government, establish themselves so
firmly (as they did in days gone by in Texas), that the United
States will, by force of circumstances, be necessitated to annex
and countenance them. When this takes place, as it most
assuredly soon will, who can estimate the importance that will

A BRIGHT FUTURE. 217
be attached to the outlets of a country more rich and fertile
than the valley of the Mississippi itself. Guaymas, from its
central position and its wonderfully safe and commodious
harbor, will of course be as it is at present, the principal
seaport town ; and there are men living, who may see the
now miserable town of Guaymas as flourishing a city as is
San Francisco at the present day, more particularly should
it be chosen as the terminus for the Pacific railroad as has
been suggested. Even now, we hear of heavy American ships,
in search of freight, leaving San Francisco, bound to Guaymas,
in order to load guano in its immediate vicinity, and knowing,
as we do, the valuable deposits of sulphur and saltpetre which
are lying unheeded within comparatively a stone's throw of
this harbor, it needs not a prophetic eye to see the day
when it will be filled with California liners seeking homeward
freight. Once taken possession of, either forcibly or by purchase,
the state of Sonora will give such evidences of her agricul
tural and mineral wealth, as will put California and Australia
to the blush, and the capital and emigration which will at
once be attracted, will promise such a future as is little
dreamed "of.
The intense and unremitting heat, as I have before remarked,
had a most enervating effect upon my health, so much so in
deed, that I was becoming alarmingly reduced, and my ener
gies fast evaporating ; as for doing any business it was im
possible, and I lolled about in my hammock, or on a cane sofa,
anywhere indeed where there was a breeze.
One day, as I was stretched out in the consulate (being act
io

218 AN OLD FRIEND.
ing consul during the temporary absence of my uncle), I was
listlessly looking over a North American newspaper, and wish
ing I might enjoy some of the invigorating breezes which were
therein described, when a man whom we employed as a look-out,
to report the arrival of vessels in the offing, came into the office
and told me that there was an American schooner coming in ;
without energy to go down on. the mole to look at her, I con
tinued my reading for a short time, and then dropped asleep.
I was awakened by the entrance of a huge specimen of Iju-
manity, with a face couleur de mahogany, hair hanging down on
his shoulders, immense beard and moustache, and arrayed in a
blue shirt and pantaloons ; about as piratical a looking indi
vidual as one might ever expect to see. Inquiring of this ami
able-looking gentleman what his business might be, and, at the
same time, casting an uneasy look at several piles of doubloons
upon the desk ; his reply was a loud guffaw ! upon which, be
ing rather disgusted, I was on the point of signalizing the
major-domo to eject him, when something in his eye arrested
my attention ; scanning him from head to foot, the fact slowly
dawned upon me that I knew the coon, and in an instant we
were hugging each other, after the most approved old Ger
man style ; that piratical looking craft being no less* a person
than my old friend, Gus Ellis, the captain of the American
schooner just arrived. If master Gus had dropped down from
heaven I should not have been more surprised ; indeed one has to
be buried for a year or so in some out of the way Mexican town,
to thoroughly appreciate the pleasure of meeting an old friend.
Handing me his papers, as vice consul, I opened them, when,
to my utter astonishment, I read thus :

A GOOD TIME. 219
" AMERICAN SCHOONER ALICE,
6 i tons Register ;
A. V. H. Ellis, Master;
R. B. Childs, Mate ;
Benj. Young, Cook, and all hands.
Bound from San Francisco to Guaymas, Gulf of California."
I could hardly believe it possible that these three men had
made a voyage of twenty-five hundred miles in a boat of six
and seven-eighths tons ! Yet so it was ! there she lay at an
anchor, and when the captain of the port's gig went along
side to board her, the captain of the port, Don Antonio Busta
mante, a horridly fat old chap, by the way, in trying to get
aboard, actually by his weight listed her so far over that he
thought it prudent to retire to his own boat again.
Gus was a regular god-send to me, he was full of life and
animation, being always jolly.
His first occupation was to rig two very fine boats that we
had, in American style, and from that time for months our life
was a round of excursions ; running down to the different
islands, we would wander around among their cool coves and
caves, and loiter away the warm hours beneath their refreshing
shades ; then we would fish, then stand off for a few hours to
sea ; in fact, there was no end to our aquatic performances.
Gus, having a wonderful knack of picking up Kngos, soon
talked away as fast as any one, and commenced an indiscrimi
nate attack upon the hearts of all the good-looking young
girls about the place, and thus he whiled away his time be
tween sailing and love-making.
The arrival of our piratical-looking friend was very oppor
tune too, on our shores, for after being there some months, the

220 COMMISSARY-GENERAL.
difficulties between the Mexicans and the Frenchmen broke out,
which necessitated the retiring aboard ship of almost all the
families at the port, and my uncle at this juncture thinking,
and rightly too, that the American flag would be no protection
from outrage, at once embarked his family aboard a vessel be
longing to himself, and sent them on a cruise outside. This
was no small undertaking, for his family consisted of some
twenty, including dependents, and only those who understand
the ways of the people out there can conceive of the magnitude
of the preparation necessary for such an exodus.
Here friend Ellis' services became invaluable ; there was
nothing the man could not do, where boats and vessels were
concerned, and with his valuable aid, the family and their ac
companiments were gotten on board, and through his energy,
as forager, were kept well provisioned during the entire cruise.
With his snug and fast yacht, he was enabled at any time to
communicate with the shore, and kept the party afloat advised
of all news of the belligerents.
Although my health was in a great measure restored, still it
was not deemed politic to reenter upon my counting-house
duties, and it was proposed that I should buy half of a vessel
belonging to the house, and taking command of her, should
trade on the coast ; this was a business of all others the most
congenial to me, and I was not long in accepting the pro
posal. The vessel was a clipper schooner, and one of the most beau
tiful little craft without exception that my eyes ever rested
upon ; built in Boston, for a sea-going yacht, her model was
perfection itself, and for strength, would favorably compare
with any government vessel, her materials being live oak, and

MY LITTLE MARIA. 221
copper-fastened throughout, and her sailing qualities were first-
rate ; indeed, during the eighteen months that I was in her, I
never saw her match. On taking possession, I had her
thoroughly overhauled in rigging, sails, etc., and her cabin
most luxuriously fitted up, and when I got to sea, with my
strong crew of Manila men, uniformed in the picturesque dress
of their country, with my old French cook, a perfect gem in
his department, and a fine breeze a-beam, skipping over the
blue waves of the Pacific, I would not (as the sailors say) call
the queen my grandmother.
Many a happy hour I have spent aboard of her, and many
an anxious one too ; our trade was at all times rather a haz
ardous one, being generally occupied in a business, which was
not in strict accordance with the revenue-laws, we were at any
time liable to seizure ; great manceuvering was the conse
quence ; a considerable deal of brass, tact in quieting suspicion,
and recklessness in case of exposure, were prime requisites.
There was a great deal that was delightful in it ; the house
of every merchant on the coast was our home when in port ;
our arrival was always a season of rejoicing among our friends
and sure to be followed by tertulias, and all that sort of thing,
which of course was returned to them on board, and my vessel
being a handy little craft, we would often " up anchor," and
stand forty or fifty miles out to sea, with large parties of ladies
on board, and that sort of thing smoothed down the asperities
of a sea-life. Passengers we always had too, and in abundance,
and jolly times we used to have with them, and on the smooth
waters of the gulf, would often dance half the night away, our
ball-room, the deck, our chandelier, the broad, bright, silvery
moon.

222 GALES.
Of gales, we had a plenty, and some pretty narrow escapes
Nowhere in the world do the autumnal hurricanes blow with
greater violence, than on the southern coast of California, ic
the months of September and October ; they continue but a
short time, but while they last, their violence is terrific.
My little Maria, with her balance-reefed foresail, rode oul
one or two of them, when everything else was foundering
around her; with hatches battened down, and the wheel lashed
she withstood the fury of the most terrific sea I ever beheld,
for twenty mortal hours ; to have said during that time,
whether she was at the bottom of the ocean or on the top of
it, would have been out of my power, for the crashing seas
that constantly broke over her, rendered it impossible for us tc
show ourselves on deck.
My voyages were generally as far to the southward as Aca
pulco, taking the ports of Mazatlan and San Bias, on the wa-,
down, occasionally touching in at La Paz and San Jose, on tht
Peninsula. Letting go anchor in either of these ports, getting
everything snug, and giving charge to my mate, I would mount
my horse, and scour away into the interior, perhaps two oi
three hundred miles, sell my cargo — buy another, and dispatch
it on mule-back to the coast, in the meantime enjoying the
hospitality of the many friends I was constantly making.
No one but an absolute stranger ever thinks of going to a
hotel in Mexico; in fact, with the exception of the largest cities.
there are none to be found, the only inns being what are called
Mesons, a sort of stable for the cattle, with lodging-rooms foi
the muleteers, without a vestige of furniture, save a brick plat
form raised four or five feet from the floor, intended to serve as
a bedstead, and generally speaking, windowless, infested with

MANZANILLO. 223
vermin, and atrociously filthy. These places are only fre
quented by muleteers, or unfortunates who have no friends and
little money. When persons of any respectability find them
selves in a strange place they immediately ride up to the
house of the priest, who never refuses either to receive them or
provide lodgings for them elsewhere. Many a time have I
been indebted to a village curate for a solid meal and comfort
able bed, without whose mediation or hospitality I should have
passed the night supperless and without shelter. Whatever
other faults they may have, the Mexican curates can never be
called inhospitable.
^ My business frequently called me to Manzanillo, the seaport
of the city of Colima, a place of forty thousand inhabitants,
and the capital of one of the richest provinces of Mexico,
lying some 150 miles in the interior. The port is perhaps as
unhealthy a place as there is on the globe, so much so that no
white man can reside there with impunity, and whole ships'
companies often fall victims to the malarias and evaporations
from the immense shallow lakes which surround it, and stretch
away miles in the interior — vast reservoirs of green, stagnant
water. Indeed, it was pretty nearly certain death for a Euro
pean to spend a night ashore. On anchoring I always gave
orders to my mate to allow no one to go ashore, and in com
municating with the shore, to make use of the native canoes.
I also always caused to be served out to the men three times
each day a wine-glass of spirits, with a half dozen grains of
quinine, and by these precautions, and having heavy awnings
fore and aft the vessel to shade the boys from exposure to the
sun, managed to keep my vessel reasonably clear of the fever.
The ride from Manzanillo to Colima, though rather long

224 ROAD TO COLIMA.
(being 150 miles), was not an unpleasant one. Starting with
my servant a few hours before daybreak, we would travel
along the sea some twenty or thirty miles before sunrise, thus
leaving the heavy sand before the atmosphere became heated,
daylight would find us in a beautifully undulating country,
sprinkled with hamlets, diversified with plantations of cotton
and sugar-cane, and groves of orange and of fig. Alighting at
the first hut and waking its proprietor, stretched out in the
doorway, we would order coffee ; after partaking of which we
would mount again, and with hats slouched over our eyes, and
downcast heads, would toil through the hot sun until eleven
o'clock ; when, halting again, we would order a breakfast o£
fresh eggs, milk, and coffee, and then stretching ourselves on
the ground, would snooze away till four o'clock; when, again
mounting, we would away. Now We find ourselves in a
mountainous region, and winding through many a defile,
threading the spurs as they rise higher and higher, while away
up in the clouds towered the volcano of Colima, 17,000 feet in
the air, snow-capped — a visible beacon for many a score of
leagues the country round.
Night finds us among the purple hills, their crests gilded
and bathed in the golden effulgence of the rays of the setting
sun. Dismounting and lighting a fire, and tethering our ani
mals, after partaking of our frugal supper, we would roll our
selves in our sarapes and soon would be snoring away in con
cert with the whirring insects.
Soon after midnight we are off again. Suddenly we come
upon a picturesque mountain torrent, and follow its banks as it
winds through gorge after gorge, until reaching the table-land,
it spreads into a broad river. The road leading across it is

A YANKEE ENGINEER. 225
spanned by a splendid bridge, over half a mile in length — a
noble monument of the energy and ingenuity of an American
mechanic. This river, in summer fordable by animals, in winter
becomes a swollen torrent, rushing along with great fury, and
had borne off some half a dozen bridges constructed by English
and French engineers, when a poor American carpenter hap
pening that way, became convinced that he could build a bridge
that would not yield. Some wealthy man hearing of him sent
for him, and thinking favorably of his plans, succeeded in
getting a contract for him. Without a cent of money, and
scarcely speaking a word of the language, he went to work and
in a little over a year, raised as handsome and as firm a struc
ture as is to be found in the Mexican republic. Its length, if I
remember rightly, was nearly 800 yards, with a width of thirty
feet, and paved with stone.
Colima is a beautiful old town of heavy moorish architecture,
embowered in gardens and surrounded by a highly cultivated
country, framed by an amphitheatre of mountains, and watched
over by its old namesake the volcano who, with smoking head,
looks grimly down upon it.
A marked and beautiful feature is the prevalence of huertas,
or large fruit gardens, which are scattered about, some of
them of immense extent and filled with bananas, oranges,
figs, cocoas, and endless varieties of rich, gay flowers, and
parasitical vines clinging and wreathing themselves around
the trees. In each of these huertas is a reservoir, built of
masonry, through which clear water is constantly flowing, and
here the families resort morning and evening to bathe.
The rides about the city and its environs are superb, and
one may take a different direction every day for a year and
10*

226 I MEET AN OLD TEACHER.
discover new beauties. The favorite afternoon ride with the
foreigners was out to the cotton factory, on the edge of a
romantic little stream whose waters moved the machinery, a
sweet spot surrounded by gardens, the whole under the super
intendence of a Yankee (the same who built the bridge), and the
only one in the whole district — a most unparalleled occurrence.
There is a large trade done in Colima, some four or five
cargoes of European goods being disposed of each year to the
merchants of the neighboring towns at a large profit. It is
altogether in the hands of Germans, who, as a mercantile com
munity, preponderate decidedly in this republic. Among them
I found many warm friends and received no end of hospitality.
One evening in visiting at the house of some friends, I was
introduced to a gentleman, a German, who spoke our language
remarkably well, and in the course of conversation he men
tioned that he had been in the United States. Presently I
found that he knew many of my friends, and we were becoming
very interested in exchanging reminiscences, when suddenly it
flashed across my mind that his face was not unfamiliar, and in
a moment more I recognized the features of a much-loved old
teacher — a singular rencontre. He, formerly a German profes
sor in .Princeton College, and in a school in the vicinity, and 1,
his pupil, to meet in the heart of Mexico, far off the beaten
track, where but few Americans had ever before been.
With a week's leisure hanging over me, I joined a party to
inspect the crater of the volcano of Colima — no small under
taking I A week's provisions to be packed, mules to be chosen,
guides for the ascent, and a rig-out of clothes suited to the low
temperature of the summit.
The first day's journey brought us to the base ; the weather

WE VISIT A VOLCANO. 227
extremely hot and oppressive, the country around luxuriant in
vegetation. At first, the ascent is easy, and the mules find
little difficulty ; as we rise, the character of the vegetation
assumes different phases, and the earth gives evidence of its
volcanic nature. Now we leave our mules, and, pike in hand,
commence in earnest the ascent. The ground gradually
becomes bare and destitute of verdure, sharp, jagged, and very
broken. At each step the path becomes steeper and more
difficult, and the air becomes rarified, and the cold very dis
agreeable. We judge our height to be now ten thousand
feet. Night' approaches, and the view is superb ; above us, all ice
and snow, tinted and crimsoned by the sun's last ray ; and the
exquisite plains for leagues and leagues beyond bathed in the
same rich glew I * * * A freezing night in an india-
rubber tent — a glorious sunrise without a cloud.
Upward we push among the ice, and struggling to maintain
our balance among loose masses of scoria, as a false step would
launch us into eternity. Our heads become dizzy, and blood
rushes to the surface, runs from our ears and noses; still we go on,
benumbed with cold. Jamming our pike-staffs into the crevices
of rock, a white steam issues of sulphurous odor. Hurrah !
the crater is reached ; and, bending our aching heads over it,
we look down into a vast cauldron seething and bubbling with
liquid lava, and are lost in wonderment and awe ; but, worn
out with fatigue, and with reeKng brains, we soon bid it adieu.
ACAPULCO.
Acapulco, during the last century the most important point
on the Pacific Ocean, as well as the strongest, from the fact of

228 ACAPULCO.
its being the depot of treasure brought by the galleons from *
the East Indies, had in the present century dwindled into
complete insignificance, with no remnant of its former great
ness, save its magnificent fortress, garrisoned, alas ! by a few
ragged, bare-legged Mexican soldiers.
The discovery of CaKfornia, however, was instrumental in
rescuing it from certain decay, it being made the depot of coal
and provisions for the numerous lines of steamers plying from
Panama to San Francisco, thus improvising considerable trade,
and the Acapulcafios, the vilest people in Mexico, awoke one
morning and found themselves again famous.
Nature never formed a lovelier spot. A fine commodious
harbor, almost land-locked, whose waters are clear and placid,
rippKng upon a white sand beach, shaded with cocoa groves,
among which nestle the picturesque huts of the lower classes.
A few yards further, the town is clustered together, crouching
between high hills, on one of which is the far-famed fortress — a
lasting monument of Spanish engineering — approached by a
delightful promenade overlooking the town, planted with
orange trees, forming a fragrant shade. The town itself is
unimportant, containing a few squares of adobe buildings, a
church, and a custom-house.
The American steamers stopping here on their upward and
downward trips, throw into the town, for the space of at least
twelve hours, from 1,000 to 1,500 passengers per month, who,
while they waste a good deal of money, and in that way bene
fit the town, by their lawlessness, depredations, and rowdy
isms, have so exasperated the natives that it is dangerous to
move about unarmed. Imagine a horde of five hundred rough
offscourings of San Francisco, graduated in every vice, disen-

A P I 8 T O L FIGHT. 229
thralled from the confinement of a ship's hold, vomited on the
threshold of a little hamlet inhabited by people whom they
hold in contempt : imagine, I say, this mob excited by drink,
rushing about like demons, insulting women and bullying men,
and committing all sorts of enormities, and then will you blame
the people for taking the law in their own hands, and retaliat
ing when opportunity offers ? Fights were affairs of every day
occurrence, and generally resulting in bloodshed. No steamer
ever stopped but that some of her passengers or crew were
either cut or killed.
I witnessed many of these rencontres, and one in particular
which struck me with great horror. I was lying beneath an
awning on board my vessel, anchored close in shore, smoking a
cheroot, and half dozing away a siesta, when a great row on
the beach attracted my attention. Paying but little atten
tion to it, however, I was about resuming my nap, when my
mate came aft, begging I would send my boat's crew ashore to
the assistance of a " pobre Americano " whom the natives were
murdering. Giving the necessary orders, I took up my glass, and dis
covered a man with a revolver in his hand, backing down to the
beach, followed by a crowd of twenty greasers, brandishing
knives. As they approached he levelled his weapon, keeping
them at bay — then a rush was made at him — crack went his
revolver, as the foremost man fell — a pause and great commo
tion — another rush, and down falls another — then a general
rush is made, and two more fall to the ground — and, alas ! the
poor American, overpowered by numbers, sinks gasping with a
hundred stabs before my men could reach the beach.
Acapulco is only eight days mule travel from the capital,

230 EARTHQUAKE
and the road passes over a very rich section of country, ii
which is raised sufficient sugar to supply all western Mexico
and rice of a most superior quality. Its climate during th'
summer and fall months is very fatal to foreigners, malignan
and congestive fevers attacking all unacclimated persons.
Its vicinity to the volcanos of Popocatapetl and Orizaba
render it liable to frequent earthquakes.
I witnessed one of the most severe ever felt there. It oc
curred on a beautiful moonlight night, after a day of suffocat
ing heat, at ten o'clock in the evening, and to the loveliness, of
the night, can be ascribed the fact, that so few lives were lost
as the greater part of the inhabitants were enjoying the lane
breeze just setting in, and promenading in front of their doors
I myself had gone aboard ship, and was lolling in my hammock
when a sudden jerk or surge nearly threw me to the deck
rushing forward, I sang out to my people to pay out ever;
inch of chain, in order to give her more play, then looking
towards the beach, I saw the water had receded some distance
and was rushing shoreward again ; this continued two or threi
minutes, accompanied by a murmuring sound, and then agaii
all was still, the crashing sound telling of the destructioi
being dealt on land.
Jumping into a boat, we pulled ashore, and found things in •<
most lamentable state — men, women and children rushing
about in desperate fear, while the smoke and dust, piles of
broken wall and timber, bore dumb testimony of what hai
occurred ; the earth in many places, was rent assunder, and i
thick misty vapor exuded.
The climate, as I said before, was deadly to strangers, and t
peculiarity of these southern climates is, that the diseasi

DEATH ON 8HIPB0AAD. 231
rarely attacks sea-faring mon while in port, but no sooner do
they get to sea, than down they go with it. Thus it happened
in my case. I had been lying with my vessel for two or three
weeks, 'loading, and had been particularly careful of my crew,
and had thus escaped a single case, but no sooner had I got
clear of the land, than first one and then another of my men
were taken, and before six days had elapsed, every man in the
vessel, with the exception of the mate, a French doctor and
myself, were under the effects of it, and we had already buried
two poor fellows. The heat was most intense, not a breath of
air was there, and for fifteen long days, we lay drifting help
lessly about the ocean, the excessive heat driving us below ;
the birds took possession of our decks, and we had neither the
power, or the energy to drive them away : on the tenth day out,
we buried the third victim, and rarely have I seen so impres
sive a funeral service. We sewed him up in his hammock, and
making fast an iron bar to his feet, laid him across the bul
wark, while the doctor, a devout Catholic, read the service
from his breviary ; the awful stillness of the glassy and seeth
ing ocean, the haggard look of the men, debilitated and still
under the effects of the fever, the flapping sails surging with
the swell against the masts, and the long gaunt form of the
corpse, perceptible through the canvas in which it was envel
oped, were all accessories to as impressive a burial as ever I've
witnessed by land or by water. The service concluded, and
giving the order, all that remained of the poor fellow was
launched into the deep, when horror of horrors, the iron bar
made fast to his feet to take him down, got loose, and he, only
half submerged, went bobbing up and down as far as we could
see him, as the current swept him slowly away.

232 I MAKE MY WILL.
I had congratulated myself on my escape, when that very
night I was attacked with one of the worst forms of the fever,
which went at once to the brain. Day and night I lay swel
tering in my little cabin, with a steam-engine pulse, raving and
unconscious, but watched with a mother's care by the French
doctor, who never left my side ; on the fourth day I regained
my consciousness, and then all the horrors of my situation ap
peared vividly before me. I felt that I must die.
There is a certain stage of weakness and disease, in which
every man can distinguish the near approach of death ; but to
die thus ! — in a miserable hole, with an atmosphere foul with
bilge water — overrun with rats and cockroaches — without so
much as a drop of cold water, or the friendly hand of a rela
tive to soothe my dying pillow 1 — then the vision of the dead
man, bobbing up and down over the glassy swells of the ocean,
came vividly before me, and I shuddered with horror.
Speculating upon my situation, and dreamily dozing away
the hours, I was called to my senses by the entrance of the
doctor and the mate ; the doctor felt iny pulse, gave me some
powerful potion, and then very kindly told me that he had
requested the mate to come down with him, in order that
I might give him any directions that might suggest themselves
to my mind relative to the disposition of my vessel, and a large
amount of money that I had on board ; for he thought it his
duty to tell me that the chances were strong against my
recovery. My first command to the mate was to get up some bar iron
from the run of the vessel, and have it ready ; for I had no
idea of floating on top of the sea, after being thrown overboard.
I then made the necessary disposition of my property, and sank

A GOOD SAMARITAN. 233
down overcome by the exertion, and never awoke again for
twenty-four hours : that was the crisis of the disease, and
on awaking, I found myself relieved, and rapidly recovered.
Never will I forget the unwearied attention of the good
Dr. C  ; had I been his brother, he could not have taken
better care of me. God bless him wherever he goes ! My
mate was subsequently taken, and thus the doctor and myself
were the only able men about the vessel, the rest of the crew
being too debilitated to be of any use.
During all this time, we had been becalmed for fourteen mor
tal days ; on the fifteenth, however, a breeze sprung up, and
the doctor lending me a hand, we got sail on the vessel,
and shaped our course for the nearest port.
We made the harbor of San Bias, where, after getting every
thing snug, and providing for my sick men, I started off for the
city of Tepic, a town celebrated for its fine climate, and some
sixty miles in the interior. In order to avoid the awful
heat, I resolved to make the journey through the night ; and,
mounting my horse, I started off. All night I rode — first
through the marshy plains along the seaside, then, as morning
dawned, my road lay through a hilly country, till gradually
making the ascent, I reached (about ten o'clock) the plateau
on which the beautiful city of Tepic stands ; but I had over
taxed my strength, and, with scarcely power to reach the
hotel, I sank down upon a cot, from which I never rose again
for weeks ; excessive fatigue having occasioned a relapse.
Here, too, I fell into the hands of a good Samaritan : a Dr.
Rodgers, an American physician from Albany, living at the
hotel, hearing a countryman of his was ill, came in to see me,
and insisted upon my sharing part of his luxuriously-furnished

234 BARRON, FORBES & CO.
rooms (the ordinary chamber furniture of a Mexican hotel con
sisting of a cot and a washstand, without a table, much less a
carpet), and here I remained under his kind treatment for
weeks. Tepic, a flourishing and romantic-looking town, is situ
ated on the grand highway between the Atlantic and Pacific
oceans ; Vera Cruz, the eastern, and Tepic, the western termi
nus, diligences running in connection between the two points, a
distance of 200 miles. The town is located on a plateau some
two thousand feet above the sea, and is blest with a most salu
brious climate, and, thanks to the taste of its inhabitants foi
flowers, is beautified with many a garden perfuming the air.
The houses are generally of two stories, well built, and kept
scrupulously white, giving the town an extremely tidy appear
ance. Its cathedral is an extensive building of no peculiai
style of architecture, and fronts on a large plaza, which serves,
as in all other Mexican cities, as a fruit-market, and on Sun
days and other feast days it presents a most attractive appear
ance, as the raneheros and Indians squat beneath gigantic
umbrellas, surrounded by piles of luscious and highly colorec
fruits. The "great guns" of Tepic are the members of the
house of Barron, Forbes & Co., one of the oldest on the wesl
coast, who, by their wealth and shrewdness, have acquired ar
incredible influence in the state, which extends itself even to the
administration of government ; and it would have been, at thai
time, a difficult matter to have passed a measure obnoxious tc
them through the legislature. The custom house was in theii
hands, and any arrangement Mr. Wm. Forbes chose to mak<
was acquiesced in without question. During one of 'my visits
one of the upper employees iu the custom house undertook tc

COTTON FACTORY. 235
seize some forty mule loads of contraband goods belonging to
the firm ; but his zeal cost him his situation, and sent him
to prison for a short season.
Mr. Forbes represents her Majesty Queen Victoria and the
President of the United States, as the consul of the respective
countries. To them belong some extensive cotton factories, having
upwards of five thousand spindles in operation, and producing
large quantities of cloth annually, netting to their owners incre
dible profits. This establishment is situated on the outskirts
of the town, in a most romantic little glen, and is surrounded
by the neat dwellings of the operatives, and circled by a rush
ing torrent, on whose banks is a superb garden, located in the
most picturesque manner, containing all that is brilliant and
exquisite in fruit or flower.
Light breezes waft the rainbow sprays of gurgling fountains
across beds smiling with the most delicate and loveliest of
flowers, which, refreshed by the moisture, gratefully emit over
powering fragrance. The coffee plant drops its crimson pods
among the mammoth strawberries, and the apple and the
orange lie on the ground together.
******
******

CHAPTER IX.
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
The Author goes to the Sandwich Islands — Embarks in a small Steam.
boat — Narowly escapes Shipwreck — General Description of the Craft —
Arrives at the Sandwich Islands — General Description — Is presented
at Court; — Queen not visible, very drunk— Princess Victoria, a dusky
Negress, personates her Majesty — Dog Feasts — Impossible to restrain
his Majesty's taste for Strong Waters — Description of Owyhee — AU
about the beautiful Cascade of Hailuku.
Determining to go to China, I was looking around me for a.
chance, and had almost closed an agreement to go over in the
" Isis," a large Dutch ship, when I happened to meet my old
friend, Captain Gus Ellis, of Guaymas memory, the individual
who commanded the celebrated schooner " Alice," before re
ferred to. Captain Gus, after, having given the Mexicans a
series of lessons in boat sailing, and in the working of fore-and-
afters generally ; after having made love to and broken the
hearts of a score of Mexican lasses ; after having resigned his
office as commissary-general to the beleagured citizens of Guay
mas, who had taken ship to escape the kind attentions of the
fillibusters, and, in short, after having used up all the excite
ments incidental to that very stirring period in the history of So
nora, had finally left there in a schooner which had been char
tered to take up the aforesaid fillibusters, vanquished and in
288

A SMALL STEAM TUG. 237
disgrace, to San Francisco. Since his arrival in California, he
had turned his attention to steam, and any one who knows any
thing of San Francisco harbor in those days, will remember the
redoubtable Gus, with his little " Fire-fly," rushing huge clip
pers about the bay, making miraculous escapes from being
dashed into pieces by steamboats, or mashed into nothing by
the great monsters he was tugging against strong currents to
and from their anchorages. To give a little idea of the per
formances of this igneous insect, the " Fire-fiy," I will relate
a little incident which occurred while I was in San Francisco,
which will not only illustrate the power of the little boat, but
will give an insight into the character of my worthy com
mander. The ship St. Patrick, a large vessel of a thousand tons, being
assigned a berth at one of the upper wharves, it was necessary,
in order to secure it, to occupy it forthwith, and the captain
immediately sent word to Gus to bring round his little Fire-fly
to his assistance. The tide was ^running very strong, as it
always does in San Francisco, and although the little " Vapor,"
as the Spaniards have it, puffed and blew, and coughed most
consumptively, yet the big ship made no headway, and her cap
tain, in despair, was about hailing a rival tug, and informed
Gus of the fact. That would never do ! One effort more must
be made. Singing out to the mate, who, by the way, was acting
fireman, too, he says : " Childs, we must move that ship 1"
"Aye, aye, sir 1" says Childs. " Childs, pitch in that barrel of
tar, and I shall sit on the safety-valve I" "Aye, aye, sir!"
says Childs, and he pokes away at his fires, and his captain
composedly seats himself upon the lever of the safety-valve ; the
people aboard the ship all retiring below deck, in case of a

238 THE AKAMAI.
blow up. The little Fire-fly gave one hard cough, two or three
wheezes, then a mighty effort, and walked the thousand tons
ship to her wharf in quick time. Gus, by his activity and
ingenuity in towing ships in San Francisco harbor, had become
quite notorious ; so much so, that the Hawaiian Steam Navi
gation Company, which had just organized, selected him from a
crowd of shipmasters to take over their pioneer boat to run on
the route among the Islands ; the requisites for that business
being, skill in handling a steamer, rather more than ordinary
daring in running one, and a man who, at the same time that
he was popular, would have a moral and physical influence on
the heterogeneous, material of human flesh that he would be
brought into connection with in the island trade.
By way of parenthesis, I must say, that my impression was
that the steamer of which he spoke was a sea-going vessel, and
that we would go over in short order ; but to my consterna
tion, on presenting myself on board, I found a little mite of a
boat, which had been brought out in the hold of a ship from
the United States, and which had since been plying to Stock
ton, and in which, during several passages that I had made in
her across the bay, I had even there felt not at ease when it
was blowing heavily. She had been strengthened and spon-
soned, and had had a couple of light spars stepped in her, to
be sure, but for all that, the idea of making a voyage of two
thousand miles in her was not agreeable ; however, I had
agreed to go, and I was not inclined to back out. A good
many friends came down to see us off, all bidding us good bye
with the consoling reflection that they would never see us
again. In going ont over the bar there was a heavy swell on, and

A PLEASANT PREDICAMENT. ~o\t
she behaved so badly that even then I began to lose the little
confidence that I had in her. Our programme was to steam
for three days, until we got off the coast, then to disconnect
our engines, hoist our sails, and drift over to the Islands,
always saving enough fuel to steam into harbor. After surg
ing, pitching and rolling on the bar for an hour, we managed
to clear it in safety, and laying our course so as to keep the
wind abeam, we steamed off at the rate of six knots an hour.
As the sun went down the wind freshened up, and by mid
night there was a clear gale blowing and a heavy sea rolling,
we being obliged to run along in its trough to keep our sails
full ; the little thing rolled most tremendously, and at every
surge the sea would swash over the main deck and through the
cabins knee deep.
Being very much fatigued I turned in, and had hardly got
asleep when the mate came down, and rousing me up told me
that it was piping up harder, and that the ship had a strong
list to windward, in spite of the gale blowing with full force
upon our fore and aft sails, which of course should have had the
effect of pressing her down to leeward ; there was only one
way to account for this, and that was that she was full of water
and gradually settling, preparatory to going down (we had
prepared ourselves for any such contingency with a fine life
boat, in which was stowed a beaker of water, some bread, etc.
etc., ready for an emergency). Springing up, I rushed out on
deck, and going to the engine-room found that, sure enough,
with only five feet hold, she had three feet of water in her, and
that besides, her sponsous had also leaked full. Something had
to be done at once. Going up to my friend's room and shaking
him, I informed him of the state of affairs below, and that he

240 SQUALLY.
had better turn out ; very quietly rolling over on his other
side, and telling me to go to the devil, he immediately began
to snore — about as cool a proceeding, under the circumstances,
as- had ever come under my supervision. Going down on the
main deck, we turned the boys out, and commenced shifting
the deck-load of fuel to leeward 1 presently a sea struck her,
and smashing in her companion doors, rushed across the deck,
nearly carrying us aK with it ; things began now to look
squally, and worst of all, the bilge pump choking, prevented
the engine from keeping her free.
Manning the hand pumps we went below, and found on pok
ing about up to our necks in water, or rather liquid filth, the
component parts of which were coal dust, oil and dead rats,
that the carpenters had left their chips on the kelson, when
stepping the masts, and that these chips were all drawn in by
the bilge pump, thus preventing it from acting, and a delight
ful job we had during the live-long night in keeping it free.
One of not the least amusing incidents of the gale on the
first night out, was the part which Mr. Lighthall, of North
River renown, and our engineer-in-chief, bore in endeavoring
to save the craft and ourselves from annihilation.
Simultaneous with our exodus from our bunks in momentary
expectation of the little craft making her last appearance super-
mare, came old Lighthall, minus his inexpressibles, and in spite
of his experience as engineer .of every kind of boat, and in every
kind of emergency under the sun (a better man or engineer
never handled a starting bar), I must say that the old gentle
man was badly scared. His first impulse was to seize a huge
augur about six feet long, and to make frantic attempts to bore
into anything and everything that presented itself, under the

MR. LIGHTHALL. 211
insane impression, that as there was so much water in the ship
the best plan would be to bore a hole for it to escape. Now
this would be excellent philosophy had the ship been on land,
but being in mid-ocean, the supposition naturally suggested itself
to friend Gus that those very holes might possibly let in more
water than we might know what to do with, therefore, he deli
cately hinted to the old gentleman that he should amuse himself
with some less dangerous method of evaporating his excitement ;
yet, nevertheless, it was necessary to keep a bright lookout
upon the aforesaid augur, and many were the incipient borings
that were nipped in the bud by the captain's watchful care,
before attaining a dangerous depth.
The gale lasted two days, during which time it was difficult
to tell whether we were above or below water. The ship
was started at every joint, and, sitting in the cabin, with every
lurch, the water would swash around our legs knee-deep. We
hardly believed she would Kve it out, but there was no remedy
for it. We could'nt alter her course to put in anywhere, as
there was no point she would fetch nearer than her destination ;
so we let her rip. On the third day the breeze lulled, and we
disconnected her engines, and thus letting the paddle-wheels
revolve, put her before the wind. It was but slow work, how
ever ; with a fair wind, all sails set, and a large sea rolling
after her, she never -made over three knots. However, we
were in no particular hurry, and took things mighty easy.
The weather was perfect, the sun partially obscured by the
light fleecy clouds always accompanying the trades, the atmos
phere as soft and balmy as ever floated over southern Italy,
and the dark blue rolling sea, cresting and foaming laughingly
at our side, shooting forth avalanches of flying fish, albicore,
11

242 THE DOLCE FAR NIENTE.
and bonita, while now and then shoals of venerable old sperm
whales would come spouting by, to the intense excitement of
sundry old whalers aboard the steamer, who rushed frantically
about decks, cursing their luck, that they had not the neces
sary apparatus for accepting their bold defiance.
A young moon, when we left, accompanied ns over, and a
series of more heavenly nights were never enjoyed by mortal
or by Peri. Dreamingly stretched upon the deck, with the
smoke of our cheroots curling over us, drinking in copious
draughts of the combined loveliness of a moon-gilt sea and a
moonlit sky, we talked of home and bygone scenes ; many a
sigh of sadness escaping us as we spoke of those whose star
had set in our absence. And our hearts, too full for utterance,
left us in silent contemplation of the past, when, soothed by
the profound silence, unbroken save by the zephyr-breeze
among the cordage, we gradually and peacefully would suc
cumb to our drowsy feelings, and wander off to dream-land
among. the loved forms of long-separated friends.
It was a funny voyage throughout- — a hare-brained sort of
an undertaking ; and I always was inclined to laugh at myself
when I thought of it — a voyage of 2,000 miles, over, at times,
a stormy sea — a little tub of a steamboat, hardly river-worthy,
propelled by sails 1 !
Well, to tell the truth, she was the oddest-looking little
affair that ever went to sea, a Chinese junk not excepted. Of
course, under sail we could do nothing with her but let her
drive before the wind, and I remember one night that a stupid
fellow let her get aback, and a nice job we had to get her off
again. We were sitting at the supper-table, when, feeling by
the unusual motion that she was off her course, we went on

LAND II o ! 243
deck to see what they had been doing with her. There she
lay flat, aback. At once taking the usual method to box her
off, we found, after repeated efforts, it would not work. Her
paddle-boxes and saloons, acted upon by the wind as sails,
counteracted all our efforts, and she would neither wear nor
tack. After working all sorts of traverses, for an hour or so,
and expending our curses and patience, a sea happening to
strike her full on the port bow, gave her a cant to starboard,
and her jib filling, and square sail braced well in by the port-
braces, catching aback, drove her over to her course again.
The name of this delectable vessel was the " Akamai," which,
being interpreted from Kanaka into English, means " Good ;"
but whether it was intended to convey the idea that she was
"good" for firewood, or "good" for sea navigation, never
transpired. But, to make a long story short, after a voyage
of some nineteen days, we arrived off the Island of Owyhee,
the southernmost of the group ; when again connecting our
engines, and steaming up, after a fearful night of squalls and
lightning, we ran in and anchored off the picturesque little
town of Lahaina, on the island of Maui.
We came to an anchor off Lahaina a little before daybreak,
and the sun had not risen over the highlands overhanging it,
when hundreds of natives came flocking off to us, in every
variety of boat, from a canoe to a ship's launch. Indeed, those
who had not the means for procuring such conveyance, dashed
boldly into the surf, and swam off to us, a distance of over
a mile. Such a clatter I never listened to, nor did I ever wit
ness such open-mouthed astonishment as these simple islanders
expressed, on beholding our " floating house," as they termed
our steamboat. No place was sacred from their intrusion, and

244 LAHAINA.
before I was half dressed, my ca,bin was filled with a score of
girls, laughing at the top of their voices, and examining every
thing with the utmost wonderment. The decks presented a
lively appearance, crowded as they were with picturesque
groups of men and women in their many-colored garments,
while we were surrounded on every side with a flotiUa of boats,
filled with beautiful fruit, most grateful to the eye after our
long voyage. It was amusing to see the swimming parties.
Reaching the vessel, they would clamber up the sides, and,
after satisfying their curiosity, overboard they would go again,
like so many seals, and paddle away shoreward.
Lahaina is a stirring little place, straggling along a sand-
beach, the romantic little huts half hidden by cocoanut groves,
and defended from the foaming surf by a coral reef running
along its entire length. Reaching the shore, we -find a much
larger place than we had supposed, and several prominent
buildings, among which were the government house and a
Protestant church. There was likewise a pretty good hotel,
cosily located, where one could get a fair dinner, and then puff
away his cheroot on its balcony, watching the pretty Mani
belles as they gracefully tripped along ; or, should he prefer
it, could swing his hammock beneath the noble cocoas, and
snooze away, fanned by the soft trade wind.
The town, as I before observed, is embowered in groves of
cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, which form long avenues, and beneath
whose shade the picturesque cottages are ranged, affording a
delightful tropical picture. Around their doors scores of girls
were lounging,' their beautiful forms enveloped in long, loose
gowns, pendant from their shoulders, and their heads sur
mounted with the jauntiest Kttle glazed hat, with a narrow

surf. 245
rim, round the crown of which an ostrich feather tastefully
floated. These girls are grace personified, and the very perfection
of physical beauty, and although copper-colored, still that is
lost in their full expressive eye and animated features ; lolling
upon a mat or cane sofa, they would motion you to a seat,
when an impromptu flirtation would at once strike up in the
most incomprehensible jargon of Kanaka and bad English.
However, a squeeze of the hand or a gentle pressure of the
waist always elucidates any abstruse remark.
Every man, woman or child who has ever written home con
cerning the Sandwich Islanders, have described their " surf
boards," and their astonishing skill in guiding them through a
surf in which no civilized man could live, as also their excel
lence in sVimming, and almost superhuman endurance in the
water. Travellers are apt to term a Kanaka " half man half
fish." I should say that he was " third man and two-thirds
fish " — for no fish that swims the ocean could have any com
mand over itself in breakers where the island girls and boys
sport for hours, as perfectly at home as on the dry land.
The surf-board is a piece of thin plank, five or six feet long
by about eighteen inches in breadth ; when the long, green
swells are rolling in with terrific violence — with a din and crash
that out-thunders thunder itself, then men, women, and child
ren flock to the beach, and divesting themselves of their super
fluous clothing, dash into the breakers, board in hand ; with a
miraculous agility they dodge the heaviest rollers, .plunging be
neath them as they begin to crest, and reaching the outside
breaker, prepare for their lightning ride shoreward.
Miraculous as their outward progress through a boiling surf,

246 famous swimming.
which no whale-boat would attempt, seemed to us, setting the
force of suction and undertow completely at defiance, we felt a
thrill of horror as we looked upon a couple of delicate-looking
girls kneeling upon a frail board, rushing in, as if shot from a
bomb, upon the crest of a great, green billow, which, raising
his head as he came, appeared like a huge mountain of water ;
onward they came, just managing to keep in such a position as
to avoid the break of the roller, and in less time than I have
taken to describe, with screams of delight they dashed up to
the very spot where we were standing. As swimmers they
have no equals, men and women appearing to possess equal
powers of endurance ; and most astonishing facts of their
aquatic feats are recorded, one of the most miraculous of
which is worth repeating. A large native canoe, having on
board a number of natives, left one of the southern islands
bound to the northward ; when only a part of the way across
the Owyhee passage, where there is always a heavy cross-sea
and furious currents, a squall struck and capsized her ; among
the passengers was a native woman, the daughter of a chief,
with her husband, a white man ; the others beings all Kanakas,
they of course struck out for themselves towards shore, a dis
tance of some thirty miles ; but the white man could not swim,
and his true-hearted wife directing him to put his arms upon
her shoulders, struck out for the nearest land. For hours and
hours they toiled along, the fond woman inspiriting the husband,
refusing to leave him ; all day and all night they buffetted the
angry currents, till at last human nature gave way, and the
white man gave up the ghost ; still clinging to his cold clay,
the widow toiled on, till at last, becoming insensible, her efforts
relaxed, and she knew no more until she found herself resusci-

KANAKA FAITHLESSNESS. 247
tated by some friendly hands, and on inquiry found that a
favoring current had drifted her upon an island, where she had
been discovered and brought to life by her deliverers.
Another instance, scarcely less remarkable, occurred during
the period of my visit to Honolulu. At that time there were
a large number of whaling vessels in port, many of which were
short of men, and consequently sailors' wages were very high,
and large advances were given to any Kanakas who would ship.
One ship in particular, had lost the whole of one watch by de
sertion, and finally had succeeded in obtaining her complement ;
the men, all Kanakas, received their $100 each, as an advance,
and went on board, and the ship got under weigh. All went on
very well for the first day and night, and the captain was con
gratulating himself on his good luck. During the middle
watch of the second night, however, stepping out on deck, the
captain was astonished on finding no one about, and asking the
man at the wheel what it meant, was told he didn't know what
had become of the people, but presumed they had gone
below. Calling the mate, and mustering the crew, he found to his
consternation that every Kanaka had disappeared ; they must
have deKberately -jumped overboard, determining to swim
ashore, a distance of sixty miles ! On board whale-ships the
mates do not usually stand a night-watch — the watch being
generally in charge of one of the " boat steerers," and in this
instance the " boat steerer" was a Kanaka, and they all went
off together ; the plan was probably hit upon before they left
port — each man received his $100 advance, and then they de
liberately formed their desperate plot for breaking their en
gagement.

248 HONOLULU.
Bidding our Mani friends good bye early one morning, we
again got under weigh, and as the sun was setting, found our ¦
selves abreast the Island of Oahu, the queen of the group, and
the seat of government, the chief town of which is the city of
Honolulu. There it lay before us, sentinelled on the one hand
by Point Diamond, a huge bare mass of white rock, 600 feet
high, and said to be hollow, and by the Devil's Punch-bowl, a
lofty turreted mountain fortress overhanging it. At their feet,
among the graceful foliage of bread-fruit and cocoanut, nestled
the town, the most prominent of whose buildings was the great
square stone native church. Within the reef, which forms a
splendid natural basin for a harbor, lay three hundred sail of
vessels, moored head and stern in tiers, mostly whalers, al
though here and there the lofty spars, out-topping all others,
told of the presence of our Yankee clippers, while through the
forest of masts, the tri-color and stars and stripes indicated the
presence of French and American men-of-war.
Landing, one would fancy himself in a Yankee town, the
houses, mostly built of wood, telling of their down-east origin,
while their signs, in plain English, testified to the nationality
of their owners, and the familiar sounds of Yankee dialect kept
up the illusion that we were treading the streets of some
Massachusetts seaport, which, however was quickly dispelled
by observing names such as Kaaumanu and Nuauanu, painted
on sign-boards at the corners of the streets, indicating their
designation. Leaving the business part of the town, however,
it loses in a measure its Yankee characteristics, and picturesque
little cottages, built in a style of their own, embowered in
shrubbery, delight the eye.
The dress of the native women attracts at once the eye of the

AN ENTHUSIASTIC ARTIST. 249
stranger, being of the same style as that described in the pre
ceding pages as worn by the girls of Lahaina; still there were
brighter hues and much more taste displayed, and their rakish
little hats, with pendant feathers, wore a more ton-ish look,
as became the denizens of a metropolis. The half-castes
affect the European modes, but wear their garments with a
peculiarly witching way of their own. This class are all
beautiful; they retain the full Asiani eye, and the olive Asian
tint- of complexion, the rich glow of European blood rushing
to. the cheek, as also their liquid pronunciation, as they war
ble out our harsh English words. I always fell in love with
them; but it was no selfish passion. I only wanted to be
baptized a Mormou, marry the whole of them, and then re
tire, " en grand Turc," to one of the green oases of the
Polynesian group. There was only one drawback : they
would anoint themselves with cocoanut oil, and in that hot
climate it immediately becomes rancid. Imagine the effluvia !
My friend with whom I was living was a " violent " artist,
and wishing to make some sketches of these graceful crea
tures in their most witching postures, accordingly dispatched
his " tamaree " for half a dozen Wyhenee houris whom he
had noticed in his walks. His page being successful, at the
appointed time in bounced five as beautiful and as graceful
girls as ever caused art to tremble, laughingly, though noise
lessly, into our apartments, with-fingers on their lips motion
ing silence, as the Kaikos (Anglice, police) are extremely
watchful of female vagaries, having the right of searching
any bachelor's apartments suspected of harboring them.
Turning the key, after a few preliminaries, the artist pro-
11*

250 K A I K O S .
ceeded to transfer to his canvas the exquisite points of Poly
nesian loveliness of form and feature, when a loud breathing
outside the door admonished us that some one equally ap
preciative with ourselves was, uninvited, inspecting our ope
rations through the key-hole. The young ladies immediately
asserted that it was a Kaiko, and were in the utmost tre
pidation lest they should be all walked off to the fort for a
day or two, and began taking measures for flight through
a window. Meanwhile my friend suggested the expediency
of filKng a quill with snuff and blowing it through the key
hole. No sooner said than done, and then, such howls and
curses I never heard from Kanaka lungs.
Pacifying the girls, my friend was proceeding with his study,
when came a loud, thundering knock accompanied by an order
to open at once in the king's name ; we told them to hold on
a moment, and meanwhile bundling the girls out of the window,
we piled all the moveable trunks and furniture against the door
and invited the gentlemen to walk in, at the same time assuring
them that if they did so it was at their own risk, as there were no
Wyhenees about. They however determining to search for
themselves, commenced preparations for storming the bunga
low ; we meanwhile arming ourselves with a couple of im
mense clubs awaited their entrance. The door suddenly gave
way, and in came three Kaikos ; without giving them time,
however, for explanation we pitched into them club, in hand,
when they went out quicker than they came in, and we did'nt
relinquish the chase until they were clear of the grounds. The
next day we were ordered before some official or other, but on
stating the case, the Kaikos were severely reprimanded for in-

A SABBATH AT HONOLULU. 251
terfering with quiet gentlemen, and our artist resumed his
labors, the young ladies overjoyed at the discomfiture of their
natural enemy the Kaikos.
An American cannot but feel his national pride tickled, on
wandering through the Yankee like town of Honolulu, or on
casting a glance over its harbor crowded with hundreds of sail
of American shipping, from whose every peak, on a feast day,
floats the stars and stripes — silent but flattering testimonials
of the indomitable enterprise of his countrymen. Here in mid-
ocean, thousands of miles from any continent, American influ
ence has tamed and brought under the civilizing subjection of
Christianity, the savage who comparatively but a few years since
knew no joy so great as when feasting upon the remains of
some unfortunate mariner thrown by the unmerciful waves upon
his inhospitable shore.
Now, on the very spot where once were celebrated the
hideous orgies of canabalistic feasts, rises the grateful incense
of a thousand voices, chaunting in the same tone that sang the
death-notes of their writhing victims, the same hymns of praise,
which we in our childhood were taught to warble forth in our
own dear native land, in thanksgiving to the only God. When
on a Sabbath morn we hear the sweet bells murmuring through
cocoa groves, and mingled with the roar of the long Pacific
swells bursting upon the coral reef, and see lines of natives
sauntering along in their picturesque though modest costumes,
decorously wending thier way to the sanctuary, we feel an honest
pride in the zeal and perseverance that has reclaimed the
heathen from his sacrilege, and rescued this, fairest of Jehovah's
works, this terrestrial paradise, from the brutal thraldom of
paganism, and with reverential awe we acknowledge that

252 MISSIONARY INFLUENCE.
mighty though unseen influence which upheld the poor mission
ary in his great work, and inwardly ejaculate, God is God, and
there is none other like unto him. But we sicken when we think
that the successors of those devoted men who so assiduously labor
ed in reclaiming the savage from his degradation, taking advan
tage of the natural feeling of veneration which the blameless lives
and self-sacrifice of their predecessors had given rise to in the
minds of these simple islanders, have established an autocratic
thraldom of which they themselves are the head, as despotic as
is the government of the Russias, highly satisfactory to their
own pride and love of power, but of incalculable injury to the
interests of the religion of which they are the high priests,
and tending by its restrictions and shallow and transparent
hypocrisy, to undo inwardly, all that has been effected in the
true conversion of the natives. With the government in their
own hands, their power is unlimited ; the king a mere puppet,
scarcely dares call his soul his own, but surrounded by the tinsel
and pinchbeck paraphernalia of a ridiculous royalty, he moves
as does his prototype on the chess-board, when and where these
republican players may indicate.
With the talismanic word "Taboo," they have restricted
the natives in a thousand harmless pleasures which at once
tended to keep aKve their nationality, and to preserve their
natural elasticity of spirits, naturally depressed by their sense
of inferiority to the whites. The king, a stout, copper-colored
old gentleman of fifty years, is a man of strong common sense,
and of some considerable acquirements, and had he been
placed in any other position in life but of that of the Lord's
anointed, would have probably cut a figure among his country
men ; but surrounded by a spurious royalty, and hemmed in by

HIS MAJESTY. 253
forms and ceremonies imposed upon him by his republican
ministers, and which are wholly distasteful, he strives like a
school-boy wearied with his task, to escape his persecutors,
and no opportunity is left unimproved, but that he imme
diately gets drunk, and lounges about the hotels, playing
billiards, of which he is very fond, with any one who may pre
sent himself. For these little indiscretions he always paid
dearly, however, for as soon as the ministers got possession of
Ms body, they immediately put him under arrest — there
remaining until he promised to do better. I myself have seen
the old chap rolling around the streets with a bottle tucked
under one arm and a Kanaka Wyheenie under the other, both
gloriously drunk.
There is an ancient and honored custom of the Kanakas,
which is the celebration, at a certain season of the year, of a
feast, the principal feature of which is the roast-dog, on which
they dote and which a whole mountain of taboos, thundered
from the ministerial Vatican, will not prevent them from eating;
prince and peasant alike indulge in this luxury, and the king,
who in this will not be thwarted, is assigned a little country
seat where he can enjoy his canine festival without compro
mising his dignity, for although dog is the prominent eatable,
strong waters flow abundantly, and the entertainment merges
into a saturnalia and is kept up for days, and invariably results
in the extreme illness of the royal family — his majesty gene
rally leading off with an attack of mania-potu.
Having received through the kindness of a friend an invita
tion to a royal levee on one occasion, I gladly availed myself
of the opportunity of seeing their majesties, and the Hawaiian
aristocracy in full flower.

254 ''MY FIRST DRAWING-ROOM."
We arrived at the gateway of the palace grounds about
eight o'clock, p.m., and on their being thrown open, passed up a
broad avenue leading through a brilliantly lighted plantation,
until we reached a circular opening in front of the palace.
Here were drawn up a company of the Hawaiian guard, who
presenting arms, the officer motioned us to proceed, and
advancing a few paces, we ascended the steps of a wide portico
which completely surrounded the palace. Sauntering about,
enjoying the delightful air and the sweet music, we encountered
many friends, when after exchanging salutations we proceeded
to enter. The reception-room, a fine spacious apartment, was
handsomely fitted up with modern furniture, the centre tables
covered with late European and American publications, the
e"tageres loaded with articles of vertu, gifts of foreign powers,
and the walls hung with full-length portraits of H. M. Queen
Victoria and of Louis Philippe, besides others of native chiefs ;
altogether a very appropriate and cosy room. The audience
chamber leads out of this apartment, and was already filled
with company, while others were awaiting their turn to be pre
sented, and the courtiers were flying about in a high state of
excitement and importance, marshalling their forces in proper
order for entering the august presence. Mr. Wyllie, a Scotch
man, and prime minister, in full court costume, led the way and
announced in turn the humble aspirants for regal smiles. His
majesty, flanked on the one hand by the Princess Royal Vic
toria, an extraordinarily dingy and thick-lipped young woman,
and on the other by His Royal Highness the heir apparent, was
seated on a Gothic chair placed on a slightly elevated platr
form, and was surrounded by several chiefs. As we marched
by we were greeted with a low bow of recognition from their

victoria (not regina). 255
highnesses, after which, mingling with the crowd, we examined
at leisure the royal household.
The enormous proportions of the chiefs were a source of
wonder to us, indeed I am inclined to believe they are the
largest men in the world ; they are really colossal, their
features, though large, beaming with intelligence, and bearing
a most benignant expression.
The princess, Victoria (vice the queen, who was drunk),
was very African in appearance, several shades darker than
Kanakas usually are, and with very thick lips, she did not give
us a very exalted idea of courtly beauty, nor indeed did we
alter our convictions when we stood at her side at the supper-
table, and saw her swooping up, with intense greediness, the
very substantial platesful which we had the honor to set before
her. The young lady was attired in a very elegant dress of white
satin, trimmed with expensive laces, and altogether got up in
very fine style, considering she lives in the Sandwich Isles ; but
notwithstanding her furbelows, I hardly think she succeeded in
captivating any of her guests.
The heir apparent (present king) was rather a fine-looking,
well-built man, of, I should imagine, thirty-five years of age,
with a very intelligent countenance, but unfortunately, very
dark ; he is said to be well educated, however, and to possess
talent ; he has great ideas of being the Lord's anointed, and
spurns all overtures touching the selling out to the Americans
of what he is pleased to term his birthright ; he, moreover,
does not love the Yankees overmuch, as they do not evince
the same veneration and respect for his rank as do Euro
peans.

256 HAWAIIAN COURT.
When in the United States, a few years ago, with my Lord
Judd, he received little or no attention, which disgusted him,
and on one occasion, his royal pride was excessively wounded.
One day, while in the city of New York, he was walking in
Broadway, when two young men, happening to stroll along by
him, the one said to the other : " There goes one of the Sand
wich Island princes 1" " Where ?" " Why, yonder," indi
cating at the same time which was the august personage.
" What 1" said his companion, " that black nigger yonder !
impossible I" His highness could not forget this, nor could
Judd's oily tongue soothe his wounded pride.
In England he was feted and courted, and some court
beauties did not deem it a disgrace to have their waists
encircled by his arm in a waltz.
The Hawauan court, as may be imagined, is not very
exclusive, and I must say that the assemblage, at the recep
tion, was of a very mixed character ; among the ladies present,
I saw some females from California, who did not move in the
very highest circles of that democratic city, and a host of
skippers and ship chandlers' wives, who looked as if they had
lain in a state of torpidity for a century or two, and had
emerged for the occasion ; there was some considerable beauty
among the half-castes, however, several of whom were very
vivacious and agreeable ; the men part of the assembly was
made up of the elite of the city, i. e. the wholesale storekeepers
(those who sell oil by the barrel— those selling by the gallon
being excluded), the hotel keepers, and the whole posse of
missionaries, consuls, etc., etc. These affairs are, however,
conducted with a great deal of decorum, and if the women are
vulgar, and if the men do favor whale oil rather than Macassar,

TERRIBLE JEHUS. 257
still we must confess that, considering its farcical nature, the
dignity of the court was exceedingly well maintained, and that
the " Spouter" captains and their shell-back wives conducted
themselves with as much humble grace, as if they had been
accustomed to " drawing-rooms " during their previous life.
Saturday is the grand gala day among the Sandwich
Islanders — the missionary sceptre is then sheathed, and the
native breathes free again, that the bug-bear taboo is taken
off his favorite pastimes. Rushing to the surf, he plunges in,
and careless, sports among the mountain combers ; tired of
aquatic sports, anointing himself with cocoanut oil, and loosely
throwing on his clothing and springing upon his horse, he
scours away over the plains like a liberated school-boy. The
Waiatiti plains, which spread out from the suburbs, and the
Nuuana valley, are the principal rides, and on Saturday after
noon are filled with mounted Kanakas, men and women, tastily
attired, flying along with frightful impetuosity, totally reckless
of the consequences of collision or anything else ; the women
ride astraddle, but enveloping their limbs in a roll of bright-
colored calico, with their long flowing gowns and jaunty little
hats, present a most picturesque appearance. Sweeping past
you with horse at full run, with flowing robes, the very person
ifications of Di Vernon, they challenge you to a race, and it
behooves you to look to your seat, for whether you will or
not, your horses, educated never to aKow anything to pass
them, themselves accept the proposal, and on the instant,
start off at their topmost speed. The Nuuana valley gradu
ally ascends for some five or six miles ; running through a
country under a high state of cultivation, and lined with
pretty little villas, the views of the city and harbor, and

258 GOG AND MAGOG.
islands adjacent at different points of elevation, are superb
The ragged summit of the Punch-bowl, and the crystallized and
hollow mountain of Point Diamond, overhanging the green,
wide-spreading plains, dotted here and there with hut and
villa, the town beyond, with its white houses half hidden by
the cocoanuts, and the forests of masts and cordage rising from
the hidden hulls of the shipping, form as pretty a landscape as
one may chance to see.
Owyhee, the southernmost island of the group, is decidedly
the finest, being the largest, best irrigated, and most produc
tive; the scenery too is most romantic, and from its summit two
huge volcanos, Maunaloa and Maunakea, the Gog and Magog
of Polynesia, belch forth from their troubled bowels a continu
ous volume of flame, and smoke, and burning lava. Their
craters are said to be the finest in the world, Vesuvius not
holding a candle to them — are visited by all who have an oppor
tunity, and who inevitably return, deeply impressed with the
awfulness of these nature's greatest wonders.
What apter illustration of the Bible's hell, than that vast
crater, whose superficial extent is greater than that occupied
by the two largest cities in the world, heaving, and bubbling,
and hissing with eternal fires, and with crashes of a thousand
thunder-claps, hurling immense masses of rock and liquid lava
high into the air ?
Not far from Hilo, the principal port of Owyhee, is a most
romantic cataract, whose silvery waters collected from the
mountain-brooks leaping merrily down from the volcano's
embraces, dash gaily over a precipice, and mingle with those' of
a fountain-like basin, sixty feet below ; this is the charming
cascade of Waialuku, as romantic a fall in its natural accom-

A WATERFALL. 259
paniments of jagged rock and luxurious verdure, as exists in
the world. Many an afternoon, with a plentiful supply of
cigars, we would stroll off to it, and throwing ourselves,
scarcely out of the dash of its spray, beneath its shade, would
listen to its joyous music. Many an island beauty, hither wends
her way to display her agility in the acrobatic exercise of
diving and tumbling from the fearful height of three-score feet,
from the summit of the fall to the basin of the cascade, yet they
thought it nothing, and artistic groups constantly appeared
in graceful pose, before taking their ae'rio-aquatic leap. The
face of the precipice was covered with lithe forms of boys
and girls striving for the ascent; laughingly floating around the
basin, they would challenge us to catch them, and when having
seduced us into accepting their banter, would seize upon and
nearly drown us, until almost suffocated we cried their mercy.
Imagine a laughing waterfall, glistening in the sun's rays, fro
licking over masses of broken moss-grown rock, on either side
dense shrubbery of luxuriant growth, below a reservoir of crys
tal water, discovering beneath a white and pebbly bottom.
Picture to yourself, this quiet sheet rippled by the splashing of
a score of water-nymphs with elfin locks, straggling "over
their exquisitely formed shoulders, as darting from above,
they come shooting down like falling stars from a height of
sixty feet, and you form some idea of the Waialuku cascade,
on a summer's afternoon ; a very pool of Siloam, one bath in
whose troubled waters, like the font of old, invigorates and
revivifies. The fate of the Kanaka like that of the North American
Indian, is sealed; he is a doomed man, and it will be but a
question of a very few years, when his race will be completely

260 GRADUAL DECAY.
absorbed by the Anglo-Americans. Like the Indian, they fade
away before the approach of the white man, not by violence or
ill-usage, but the relentless decree of fate, and disease fulfills
their inevitable destiny.
During the year 1849-50 the measles, hooping-cough, and
influenza, swept off some 9,000 natives; estimating the popu
lation at 80,000, this was more than one-eighth of their entire
number. Since then, death has been gradually but surely
doing its work, with the powerful auxiliaries of syphilis, small
pox, and fevers, to so great an extent, that the mortality con
siderably exceeds the births. From a loose calculation, founded
upon facts derived from authentic sources, I should judge that
disease, emigration and infanticide, will in less than a century ,
leave these islands without an aboriginal inhabitant.
Essentially American in feeKng and institutions, these islands
must, necessarily, eventually fall under the rule of the Ameri"
cans, in spite of English intrigue, or French bravado, and their
importance as an acquisition can scarcely be over estimated.
As an inter-oceanic depot between our western sea-board and
the Indies, they are a prime requisite, and no thinking man
will doubt, but that the moment the Pacific railroad is definitely
fixed upon, schemes of steam navigation will be broached
on a scale, such as the world has never dreamed ; for with the
Chinese ports within forty-five days from our Atlantic sea-board,
who will dream of exposing the delicate and costly fabrics of
the east to the dangers of a Cape Horn, or Good Hope voyage,
not to speak of the immense saving of interest on the capital
employed ; and such steam communication once established,
these islands would of necessity belong to us, for the very
population necessary for the transaction of the business and

AN EXCELLENT NAVAL STATION. 261
the supply of such an enterprise, would outnumber the present
inhabitants of the group, and would of course for their own
protection seek admittance into the American Union.
As a naval station it has not its equal ; her harbors will
accommodate the fleets of the world, and are possessed of
natural docks for refitting, and besides are capable of the high
est state of defence. With a climate of unprecedented salu
brity, and a soil bearing almost spontaneously all the products
of temperate and tropic clime, these islands possess advantages
for military and naval depots, such a combination of which are
not to be found in the world.

CHAPTER X.

MANILA.

Take Ship for Manila — Arrive there — Working Ship in narrow Places —
First Impressions — Banca — River Passig — Hotel' — Ancient Appear
ance of the City — Heterogeneous Masses of Population and Pecu
liarities — The Chinese — Their immense Numbers — Their Industry —
Their Accumulative Propensities — Natives — Their Dress and Customs
— Sports — Mania for Cock-fighting — Calzada — Beautiful Drive — Grace
and Beauty of Women — Lovely Music — Cigar Factories — Vast assem
blage of Workwomen — Pine-apple Cloth — Remarks upon Trade, and
Natural Advantages of the Island.
Leaving the Sandwich Islands in a fine clipper ship, we flew
away over to the China Seas, at the entrance to which we were
saluted with a fierce typhoon, and on the 28th of December,
we made the light on the island of "Corregidor," at the
entrance to the harbor of Manila ; we had a splendid breeze
just abaft the beam until we got to within twelve or fifteen
miles of the mouth of the harbor, when the wind -suddenly
shifting, headed us off on every tack ; anxious, however, to get
in, we crowded on all sail, and at it we went, and by dint of
taking advantage of every favorable puff, we managed, little
by little, to shorten our distance. It is a beautiful sight to
see a clipper ship of a thousand tons, with a spanking breeze
working up through a narrow channel ; scarcely is she about

A CLIPPER SHIP. 263
on one tack, before she must go in stays for another, and as
may be imagined, on board all is excitement, and every one
kept actively employed ; as our barometer showed signs of bad
weather, we felt it important to get in that night, and, there
fore, every nerve was strained to get the most out of the ves
sel that we could, and in order to make the most of a favorable
slant we would often shave the reef so closely that the slightest
mistake in manceuvering would have lost the ship ; the crew
never left their stations from day-light till dark. I was
stationed at the wheel to " con " it, that is, to see that the
helmsman did his duty, and I watched with great pleasure the
"pilot-boat" qualities of our ship.
The entrance is fine, high mountain ranges on either hand
clothed with tropic verdure, at their feet snow-white beaches,
foaming with glistening breakers, which seemed to dash their
spray on the very thresholds of the pretty little bamboo huts
which here and there peeped out from the forest ; the island of
the Corregidor rising mid-way between the two shores, crowned'
with fortifications and steepled with a lighthouse, gives char
acter to the scene. About dark, just when we were thinking
that we would be obliged to stay outside all night, we got a
favorable breeze, and rapidly shot inside the island. Darkness
came down upon us, but the bright flashes of the revolving
lantern made us sure enough of our position to venture in ; so
squaring, away we went flying up the bay. Just before the
bell struck 4 (10 o'clock p.m.,) the lookout forward sung out
" Land close aboard !" when luffing up in the wind, letting
everything fly, we let go an anchor, which brought us up all-
Etanding, when, sure enough, within only a few lengths of us
lay a long, black object ; what it was we could not imagine,

264 THE APPROACH TO THE CITY.
but as our lead gave us plenty of water, we did not trouble
ourselves. Daylight, however, solved the problem, it proving
an immense battery, made of timber and brushwood, used by
the natives as a fishery.
At daylight, or shortly after, a pinnace with a long, brass
swivel-gun mounted midships, and pulled by twenty Manila-men
arrayed in their picturesque costume of blue and white, with
red sashes and heavy brown straw hats, like an inverted pan,
the crown terminating in a peak or steeple, tipped with brass,
came alongside. From her stern sheets (covered with heavy
wooden awnings, and luxuriously furnished), three officers in
Spanish uniform came aboard. Our papers were produced, and
very strictly scanned ; our crew inspected, when we were given
permission to communicate with shore. Calling a banca — a
boat used in those waters, much resembling a Venetian gon
dola, with its long, black hull sharp at either end, 'midships an
arched awning made of bamboo, shading cane sofas on which
the passengers recline ; (the bogadores, or rowers, sit one at
either end, and with their paddles they send the light fabric
flying like a bird over the heavy swells which roll in at the
mouth of the river) — we stepped in, and taking our places,
ordered the "patron" to shove off.
The approach to the town is not prepossessing — the heavy
masonry of its walls and fortifications, stained with age and
weather, the massive, awkward-looking church towers, and the
red-tiled roofs of the dwellings, giving rather a sombre color.
ing to the scene. Entering the river Pasig, prolonged into the
bay by two stone piers, at the extremity of one of which is a
lighthouse, and at the other a small fortification, and paddling
up among the many small craft, of European and Indian build,

AN EASTERN HOTEL. 205
we pulled up at the guard house where, after undergoing an
examination, we were permitted to continue on our way.
Landing by a stone stairway, and entering a marine store,
we passed out of it up a broad staircase into the saloon of
" the hotel." . Immense rooms, whose lofty ceilings and bare
waxed floors looked most refreshing after the excessive glare
and heat without ; shaded corridors with caue divans, inviting
to repose, most favorably impressed us. A Chinaman, the
major-domo or factotum of the establishment, coming forward,
begged us to be seated, and, clapping his hands, gave orders to
some of his satellites to bring iced drinks, cool fruits, and
cheroots ; and as we refreshed ourselves, gave us all the news
and gossip of the place. Then, conducting us to our apart
ments, the picture of neatness and comfort, he left us to make
our toilet for dinner. Kept by a Frenchman, long a resident
of the Indies, in the most liberal manner, with a capital table
d'hote, and everything on the most liberal scale, this was
decidedly the best hotel I ever saw in the East. Situated on
the river, and commanding a fine view of the bay, its balconies
in the evening were a most delicious retreat. With a handful
of cheroots and iced drink, and a lighted joss-stick by my side,
I have passed many an hour in pleasant reverie, only distracted
by strains of- lovely music stealing through the embrasures of
the fortifications on the other side of the river, or by the deep
and. harmonious peal of the cathedral bells. On one's arrival
at the hotel, a body servant is assigned him, and from that
moment he is your very shadow. Waking at night, you see
him through your half-opened eyes fanning you ; looking over
your shoulder at table, he anticipates your wants; and in driving
out, he mounts the box and sits beside the coachman.
12

266 MANILA.
The city of Manila is divided into two distinct sections — the
city proper and the suburbs. The city proper contains all the
public buildings, customhouse, arsenals, barracks, and govern
mental offices, and likewise the residences of all in any way
connected with the administration of the government, and is
surrounded by wall and ditch, heavily fortified, which separate
it from the other portions of the city. This, however, is by far
the lesser section, containing not over five thousand inha
bitants, all Spaniards, while the suburbs contain at least one
hundred thousand. Here all foreigners as well as the artizans
dwell, and consequently all is bustle and activity. Its principal
streets, the Escolta and the Rosario, are lined with shops,
crammed from floor to ceiling with every imaginable article of
utility or luxury, while outside their doers are itinerant venders,
tailors, carpenters, cooks, etc., all assiduously plying their call
ings. The Chinamen are the principal tradesmen, and they are
as indefatigable here as in their own country, never a moment
idle, but always on the watch to make money.
Particular trades occupy a distinct section. That occupied
by the shoemakers struck me most forcibly : the shops, mere
dens about nine feet square, were literally stuffed inside and
out with every variety of shoe (the Manila people being fanci
ful in their feet coverings, and wearing an immense number of
them), while the only available space would be occupied by the
cobbler and his journeymen, who, nearly naked, the perspiration
rolKng down them, might be seen from daylight till late at
night sewing away, scarcely lifting their eyes. The stores —
some of them kept by Europeans— are really elegant. The
public buildings of Manila are none of them worthy of note.
The residences are built in the old Spanish style : below, the

I T I

INHABITANTS. 267

masonry very heavy, while above, everything is exceedingly
light and airy, from the excessive heat and fear of earthquakes.
The churches are built in a combination of the Moorish and
Spanish style, which gives a certain romantic air to the city.
The large proportion of Chinese population renders it neces
sary to put them under certain restrictions. Each one has his
name registered on his arrival, and pays a tribute during his
residence, regulated according to his employment, and a cap
tain or head, chosen by themselves, settles all their disputes,
collects the tribute for each one, and is responsible for their
conduct. Almost the entire provincial trade is carried on by
them ; their commercial relations extending throughout the
group. The principal man living in the city has his agents
established throughout the provinces, and keeps them supplied
with goods, which he buys at from six to eight months' credit
from the European importer. The amount sold to one of these
Chinamen is often very large, as high as sixty to one hundred
thousand dollars per aiinum, and all on credit, which is scrupu
lously responded to.
The natives are swarthy in color, of medium size, and exceed
ingly robust, though lithe and active. They are very intelli
gent, readily catching at European ideas, but not having the
perseverance of the Chinese, are outdone by them in mechani
cal and commercial pursuits. In temperament quiet, taking
the world easily, but when excited, violent to frenzy, stopping
at nothing to gratify revenge. Singularly enough, they possess
none of the characteristics of feature or character of the
Chinese, although so near neighbors. Indeed, there exists a
strong antipathy between the two people. This class of the
population are employed either in agricultural or in sea-faring

268 MANILA MEN.
pursuits. Making most capital sailors, quick and active, and
ready upon an emergency, they are preferred by all ship
masters trading in eastern seas. They invariably go in compa
nies of five or six, accompanied by a contramaestre, who makes
their bargains for wages, and through him they receive their
orders when aboard ship. Although generally quiet, steady
men, woe be unto the ship-master who treats them inhumanly ;
for when roused, they are devils incarnate. Many of them act
as house-servants, and acquit themselves well ; and likewise as
mechanics, and when they are not too lazy to work, they suc
ceed admirably.
They are passionately addicted tq amusements, and fond of
music and dancing, but gaming is necessary to their very exis
tence, more particularly cock fighting, which they carry to
the greatest excess ; see the Manila man where you will he
has his cock ; walking, under his arm ; sitting, tied to the leg
of his chair; and every leisure hour is devoted to training and
caressing him ; at every corner there is a cock-pit, and every
afternoon is Spent in matching one bird against another. They
fight them with long gaffs made of steel, and sharp as a razor,
these are about four inches long, and slightly crooked, looking
like a miniature scythe; of course, with such weapons as these,
the fight does not last long ; the second or third round generally
results in the death of one or other of the combatants. I re
member while lying in the harbor, and having occasion to caulk
the vessel, some fifty or sixty men were sent off to us, and
every man of them brought his cock with him ; our decks were
like a farmyard, such a crowing never was heard, and at noon,
when the men knocked off work, little circles were formed, and
in a few minutes the combats commenced, and raged without

MESTIZOS. 269
intermission till the gangs were turned to. On complaining to
the " boss," he said it would be useless to attempt to prevent
it, as the men would rather lose the job than come off without
their birds.
The residences of the agricultural population are most sin
gular affairs, looking more like large bird-cages than anything
else, and as a general thing, located on marshy ground. In
order to avoid the malarias, and the numerous reptiles and
insects, they are built of bamboo, and elevated on poles, some
fifteen or twenty feet from the ground, only accessible by a
ladder, or more commonly by a long notched pole, which the
inmates are obliged to shin up and down ; made of bamboo,
they are light and airy, and I may add, after getting used to
them, remarkably comfortable.
The Mestizos form a large element in the population of
Manila, constituting the middle class ; being half breeds, the
issue of a cross between the Spaniard and the Indian, they as
sume a superiority over the latter, though looked down upon
by the former. Of a light olive color, with great vivacity of
expression, graceful in figure, with fine hair, and possessing the
large, soft black eye peculiar to the tropics, they a,re most in
teresting in appearance, and although, as I said before, looked
down upon by the old Spaniards, still, as a general thing, they ..
mingle with them upon terms of a certain equality ; the stately
Don oftentimes yielding to the influence of the fascinations of
some lovely Mestiza, and waving the distinction of caste, leads
her to the altar. The females are of an extremely graceful
and elegant carriage, and almost intuitively acquire to profi
ciency, the accomplishments of dancing and music ; their dress
is extremely unique and striking — a little shirt, made of pinq,

270 C A L Z A D A .
cloth, with wide short sleeves, worn loose and unbound to the
figure, reaching to the waist, round which a petticoat is girt,
made of silk, striped or checked, of gay colors, or of cotton
cloth, no stockings, their little feet inserted in slight slippers
without heels, and embroidered in gold lace ; they never wear
bonnets, their long and beautiful hair being sufficient pro
tection to their head. The men wear trowsers fastened by a
scarf, very wide, and for festive occasions, made of striped silk;
the shirt made of pina cloth, the bosom elaborately embroid
ered, is worn outside the pantaloons, looking as if the person
hadn't finished dressing himself; a high hat, either of beaver
or of straw, and heelless slippers. The Indian wears panta
loons, wide and loose, half way down the knee, made of a
coarse, blue cloth, a shirt of the same material, and an im
mense straw hat, like an inverted basin, with a little peak,
which is generally tipped with brass.
The European ladies, though retaining the fashions of Paris
as a standard, manage to make important modifications to
meet the exigencies of a hot climate ; and, as they loll listlessly
on the cushions of their coaches, as they every evening roll up
and down the cool Calzada, their swelling forms, enveloped in
clouds of delicate pine-apple cloth, and their dark tresses caress
ing their fair cheeks, they appear among the dusky forms
moving around them, as aerial beings through the dim twilight.
The Calzada is a beautiful drive of about a mile in length,-
running along in the rear of the fortifications, and terminating
at the bay, affording a fine view of its extended waters, as well
as of the shipping and the lofty mountains beyond ; the island
of the Corregidor is likewise visible, its revolving light
throwing periodical flashes over the dark waters. This is the

CHEROOTS. 271
grand rendezvous of beauty and fashion ; and every one who
pretends to respectability drives up after dinner, and, falling
into line, slowly trots up and down, saluting his friends, and
admiring the ladies. As it grows later, a general halt is made
at the bay end of the drive : and, while the band of some one
of the regiments is performing delightful music, the gentlemen
dismount and pay their respects to the ladies.
The attention of the stranger is continually attracted by the
beautiful pine-apple fabric, manufactured into handkerchiefs,
dresses, and the like, which is so much used here, and which is
so entirely unknown to him ; it is made from a peculiar kind
of pine-apple ; the finest kind is very beautiful, and is, perhaps,
superior to any other fabric in the evenness of its texture ; it is
of a rich yellow color, and is embroidered in the most tasteful
manner. In preparing it, it is of so delicate a nature that the
.windows are covered with gauze-screens, to prevent the air
from circulating and injuring the web. Some of the finest
specimens sell for fabulously high prices. The ordinary work,
however, is not expensive, a handsomely embroidered pocket-
handkerchief selling for eight to ten dollars ; collars at from
five to twenty dollars, according to quality.
Tobacco is very extensively cultivated, and, being a govern
ment monopoly, yields a large revenue. The only style of cigar
made there is the cheroot ; a long, smooth cigar, tapering from
one end, and both ends cut square off. The manufacture of
cigars is monopolized by government, and the factories are worth
visiting. The one which I visited was divided into six or seven
different apartments, in which were employed somewhere about
6,000 women; they were seated at small tables about two feet
high, by six long, and two or three broad ; each woman had a

272 FEMALE CIGAR MAKERS.
pile of tobacco in front of her, and worked away most assidu
ously, producing from 150 to 200 cigars per day. Witnessing
the operation of rolling them does not improve one's relish for
smoking. Saliva is rather too extensively used, and the smell
of garlic from several thousand breaths would seem to flavor
them. The women were most diabolically ugly, and looked
very cunningly upon us, as if they would like to exact tribute
for our visit. Some years previously, a midshipman ventured
in alone, when he was caught, stripped of all his clothing, and
held naked until he agreed to pay a stipulated ransom. These
cigars are very much esteemed all over the Indies, and, being
mild in flavor and slightly narcotic, they would seem to be bet
ter adapted to the enervated constitutions of the East Indians
than the stronger flavored tobacco of Cuba. There are now
made up large numbers of cigars in the form of Havanas of an
inferior tobacco, on account of being freed in this way from the
government tax.
The Philippine Islands were a great acquisition to the Span
ish crown, not only from their vast extent, but from their geo
graphical position, being as it were a key to the China seas.
Situated within the tropics, their fertile soil is irrigated by the
condensed vapors swept over them by the northern and southern
monsoons, which alternate successively with the seasons, mak
ing them capable of producing almost every article known in
tropic commerce, and thereby creating a trade, which affords
the mother country a large revenue. So little is known out
side of the commercial world of the value of their productions,
that it might be as well to enumerate some of the more impor
tant of them.
The Manila hemp, which has so world-wide a reputation, is,

PRODUCTS OF THE PHILIPPINES. 273
unlike the European plant, the product of a species of the
plantain tree, and is produced from the bark ; the fibres are
separated by a species of iron comb ; after drying, it is made
up info bales of 280 pounds ; it is then shipped to the port of
Manila, where, being repacked, it is made into bales, which are
hydraulically pressed, and are then ready for foreign shipment-
The best article is of a long and fine white fibre, well dried and
glossy ; the darker colors are considered inferior, and are not
shipped, being used for home consumption. The amount
shipped, during the year of my visit, to Europe, America, Aus
tralia, India and China, was about eight thousand tons! Sugar
is also an important article of export, although the mills for
mashing the cane and expressing the juice are of primitive
style, and very inadequate to the trade ; the sugar varies very
much in quality, according to the district from which it is
brought ; the largest export is made to Great Britain, although
large quantities are consumed in China and British India. The
Manila cheroot is quite a prominent article of commerce of the
islands, and a source of large revenue to the government ; being
a monopoly, the government tariff for their disposal is fixed as
follows (but, I believe, rather more with the view to weight
than to quality) : The firsts are sold at fourteen dollars per
thousand ; the seconds are sold at eight dollars per thousand ;
the thirds are sold at six dollars seventy-five cents per thousand ;
the shipments amounting to some, seventy millions annually.
Rice is very largely culivated throughout the islands, more
particularly in Luzon, being the staple article of food of the en
tire native population, as well as of the Chinese ; it differs very
much, of course, in quality, whether grown in the upland dis
tricts or in the marshes ; but little, however, is exported.
12*

274 EDIBLE BIRD'S NESTS.
Indigo is exported to the United States, although not in
large quantities ; the crop being a very precarious one, and re
quiring an immense deal of attention, is not a favorite with the
agriculturists, although the quality of that sent to the United
States is said to be very superior.
Coffee is not largely cultivated, but is of a very superior
quality and is greatly esteemed, being considered by the French
as fully equal to the Java ; the exportation, however, is not
large. The natives of the provinces of Luzon, and the islands com
posing the archipelago, consume a large amount of European
manufactures, which are supplied them by the Chinese traders,
who receive in return the following articles, many of which are
entirely unknown to our commerce : The edible bird's nests are
the more highly esteemed, and are classified as two sorts — white
and feathered — the first being the most valuable, and worth its
weight in silver ; the feathered sort, so called because' the edi
ble substance of which the Chinamen make soup, is covered by
down and feathers, is much lower in price. Beche-la-mar is a
sort of fish found on coral reefs, and when cured and dried
looks like a cucumber, but black and dirty-looking ; it is also
used by the Chinamen for making soup, and is really very de
licious when well prepared. There are some thirty different
varieties, and it is worth from twenty to thirty dollars the hun
dred weight.
Pearl shells, also, enter largely into the trade, as well as the
pearl, and small quantities of gold dust.
A custom among the natives and Chinese, which strikes the
stranger as very remarkable, is the use of the betel nut by the
whole native and Chinese population, to such an extent that it

A SUBSTITUTE FOR TOBACCO. 275
forms a source of revenue to the government. A prepared leaf,
called a buyo, is spread over with lime, and a piece of the nut
is placed within, it is then rolled up, put iu the mouth, and
chewed as tobacco is with the Americans. It is a most filthy
habit, the whole mouth, as well as the teeth, being discolored
by the reddish-black liquid formed of the masticated nut and
saliva. This article is sold everywhere, and at every few steps
the pedlar offers it to one. The taste is very peculiar, pungent
but not at all agreeable.
The Philippines are, as I have before remarked, a valuable
possession to the Spaniard, not only on account of the revenue
received, but from their commanding position in the Eastern
seas ; and their very contiguity to the vast and populous em
pire of China ensures a certain and profitable market for their
products, whenever the absurdly restrictive policy which has
always held anything like commercial energy in check, shall be
abandoned ; but the Spaniard looks with an evil eye upon
foreign enterprise, and uses all his influence to keep it under.
The whole of the import trade is in the hands of a few Bri
tish and American merchants, who have been established there
for many years, and who are most liberal in their dealings, and
friendly towards the existing government ; but, notwithstand
ing, they are looked upon with dislike, jealousy and suspicion,
and made to feel that they are only tolerated.
My stay at Manila was not very protracted, and having
made several short voyages down to Singapore and to the
islands of the archipelago, which proved disastrous, I at last
made arrangements to go over to China in a heavy clipper ship
bound to Hong-Kong.

CHAPTER XI.

CHINA.

Approach to China — Junks — Pirates — Limoon Passage — Pilot — Hong-
Kong — My pecuniary Prospects — Falling into pleasant Places — Meeting
an old Friend — Going up Canton River — A fast Boat — Engagement
with Pirates — Stink-pots and their Effects — Am Lucky — Take Com
mand of a Vessel — Fit her out — Buy her myself — Sell Half of her —
Dispatch her to Australia — Wander over China — Macao — Poet Ca-

The reflecting man must approach the coast of China with a
feeling akin to positive awe. The Christian pilgrim to Jeru
salem, as he kneels in reverential attitude as the spires of the
Holy City rise for the first time before him, through the morn
ing mists, looks upon them with sentiments of the liveliest love
and reverence ; of love, for those ruined towers once looked
upon the passion of our Lord ; of reverence, for their remote
antiquity as relics of ages long gone by. With how much
greater reverence, then, should one approach a land whose
existence can be traced for four thousand years ; which at the
time of Christ's advent upon earth could already count back
twenty centuries, and which during all the convulsions which
have torn the world has maintained intact its form of govern
ment, its customs, its laws, and its religion ?
While Europe was floundering in the depths of barbarism —
276

A STABLE GOVERNMENT. )i II
while the Vandals were encamped amid the Seven Hills of the
Imperial City, and the classic towers of Greece were blacken
ing with barbarian fires — while ignorance and superstition had
spread their dark pall over the eastern world, and ghostly
monks, in the dim light of conventual cells were laboriously
tracing their black-lettered manuscripts — while the arts and
sciences were abandoned for war and rapine, at the extreme
East flourished the Chinese empire, which, like the sacred
" Nile," burying itself beneath the desert sands, and
running a course of a thousand miles, again becomes a
broad, flowing stream, — so the Chinese nation, coeval with
the flood, plunged beneath the sands of time' and only reap
peared to the world after being concealed for a thousand
years. While to the westward all was oppression, ignorance, and
chaos, here, at the extremest east lay a flourishing empire,
whose people claiming an antiquity thousands of years before
our era, living under the same government, adhering to the
same customs and belief which their earliest ancestry had
sanctioned, had arrived at the last point of intellectual refine
ment, learning being the sole test of political preferment.
Emperor after emperor — dynasty after dynasty had passed
over them, ruling hundreds of millions of contented men with
autocratic sway; not derived, however, from victorious armies
or from accident of birth, but relying solely on the strength of
their moral and intellectual attributes. Here all was peace
and prosperity. The once arid plains, watered by artificial
streams, led down from the far-off mountains, smiled before the
neat hamlet of the thrifty husbandman. The mountain torrent
dashing over precipitous heights, was made to turn the busy

278 MANTCHOU TARTAR8.
wheel which bruised the cane and ground the corn ; printing-
presses threw off their thousand pages of Confucian lore, while
the marinerr guided by the compass (which the philosophic
brain of some ingenious' countryman had invented — a boon
to the world), stood boldly among the dangerous- seas which
washed his coasts. Her soldiers, disdaining the clumsy weapons
of their enemies, thundered with gunpowder at the daring
Tartars who ventured in their territories.
In the art of government the Chinese can challenge the
world. Century after century — dynasty after dynasty have
succeeded each other — peace and plenty reigning. Patri
archal in its form, the emperor is worshipped as the father
of his people, the originator of all the blessings that are
vouchsafed to them. Each year, as the welcome sun return
ing warms the cold earth, the monarch guides his golden
plough, furrowing up the ground, and planting the yellow seed,
and imploring the divine blessing on the harvest ; thus, giving
an example of industry to his people. For centuries living
separate from the world, their only feuds were with the Tar
tars, nomadic tribes, who, in their wanderings, occasionally
overstepping the bounds of prudence, made forays into Chi
nese territory; being of a warlike turn, it was not found an
easy task to eject them. Gradually they grew more formid
able, and, as a precaution, that huge monument of human
industry and perseverance, the Chinese Wall, was built.
Year after year, the Tartar element infused itself, to a
greater degree, in the Chinese population, and turbulence and
riots were its fruits.
Looking with contempt upon the effeminate Chinese, a strong
feeling of antipathy was begotten, and as this increased, power-

GERM OF REBELLION. 279
ful plots were discovered, the magnitude of which caused the
throne itself to tremble.
After years of effort, the Tartars at last gained, the ascend
ency, and revolutionized the country. Essentially a corrupt
people, they were not satisfied with gaining supreme power,
but endeavored to grind down the Chinese to the most abject
conformity to their own peculiar prejudices.
Up to the time of their subjection, the Chinese wore flowing
locks ; their conquerors forced them to shave them off. Many
for non-compliance lost their heads altogether ! In dress, too,
they insisted upon vital changes, forbidding the use of certain
colors. Disdaining the virtue of Chinese philosophers, they violated
the sanctity of' the literary tribunals, and although affecting
reverence for intellectual superiority, they cared not to abide
by its rigid tests, but introduced venality to sway the voice of
arbitration in the halls of literature. Corruption and deceit
became, thenceforth, a synonym of Chinese character, and has,
during the Mantchou-Tartar dynasty, pervaded the whole sys
tem of government.
Subjection to a foreign yoke has caused a succession of
ineffectual efforts to rid themselves of it ; and as each plot is
laid bare, and each revolt successfully subdued, the hatred of
the two races becomes more ungovernable.
Secret societies have sprung up out of this state of things
to a most astonishing extent ; and scarcely a hamlet but that
has its political club, whose members are bound to secrecy by
the most terrible oaths, while regularly organized societies, on a
grander scale, permeate the whole length and breadth of the
land. The association of the Triads *is the most extensive and

280 ELDEST SON OF GOD.
powerful known among the Chinese, and is the mainspring of
all the political movements which agitate the country. More
widely extended, and as loyal as the followers of Ignatius
Loyola, they penetrate the palace of the emperor and the hut
of the peasant ; while no sacrifice is too great for its votaries
to make, no torments are agonizing enough to cause them to
betray the secrets of their order. Every effort has been made
to exterminate them, and they are persecuted with the most
unparalleled ferocity. In a single province, during the pre
valence of rebellions, five hundred have been known to fall
daily before the sword of the executioner. At Canton, any
foreigner may witness, for the sum of one dollar, on almost any
day of the week, these massacres, which appear to be perpetu
ally taking place. The criminals are brought down in gangs ;
the executioners ranged in rows ; as soon as the signal is given
the work begins^ — there is a dull crunching sound. Chop,
chop, chop. No second blow is, ever dealt ; for the dexterous
man-slayers are educated to their work. Three seconds a head
suffice. In one minute, five executioners clear off a hundred
lives. The most serious revolt that has ever threatened the Man-
tchou-Tartar dynasty is, at the present moment, in full tide of
successful operation, and its armies are even now thundering
before the very walls of imperial Pekin.
The prime mover and originator of this gigantic plot, which
counts its supporters by millions, and who is now designated
by his followers as the "Eldest son of God," was of a most
obscure origin. Born in the heart of the empire ; son of a
poor agriculturist, whose efforts were barely sufficient for the
support of his family.

TAI-PING-WANG. 2S1
Tai-Ping-Wang early became ambitious of eminence as a
literary character, and thus eligible to the rank of mandarin-
The poverty of his parents rendered it impossible to afford him
any education beyond that accorded to the poorest Chinaman ;
for, independent of its cost, the poor farmer could not afford
to lose the labor of his son, whom he was obliged to support.
The son, however, made use of every spare moment in the
interval of toil to add to his store of knowledge, and at last,
renounced the laborious life of husbandman to become a school
master. This was a congenial occupation, and enabled him to
prepare for his examination before the literary tribunal of his
district. After years of toil, he presented himself to the
examiners, and, to his consternation and that of his family,
was dismissed as incompetent.
Broken-hearted he resolved to go to Canton, where he could
have better advantages for study, and, at the same time, try
his chance before a. different tribunal ; without money, through
a country which has no facilities for travel, he set off alone on
a journey of hundreds of miles in length, and after hardships and
sufferings which only those who have one great aim in life can
undergo, he arrived at his destination, and became the adherent
or servant of an American missionary, one of whose tracts,
published in the Chinese tongue, had by some accident been
discovered among some rubbish in his obscure village, and
which having attracted his attention by its promises of future
happiness to the believer, he determined to seek out its author
and enlist under his banner. Once under the protection of the
missionary, he became a sort of a lay-assistant, meanwhile,
using every effort with a view to a second literary trial ; years
passed by, and at last the important day came round ; he was

282 CHINESE JOE SMITH.
presented for examination and again failed ! Bowed down by
the weight of his misfortunes, he wandered back to his far-
off hpme, where, like the prodigal sou, he was received again
with open arms by his poor but affectionate parents. Worn
out in body and in mind by exposure, anxiety and excessive
application, his nature could stand no longer, and he was seized
with a violent protracted fever, which for a long time threat
ened his life.
During his illness he had frequent visions — revelations of the
future in all its glory ; in his delirium, angels from heaven
anointed him the Son of God, and gave him supreme command
over his countrymen. Returning strength found him a firm
believer in the reality of the visions which his delirium had
produced, and fancying himself the chosen of God — the em
bodiment of the Father and the Son, which he had read of in
missionary tracts, he endeavored to make proselytes of all his
family and friends. At first he was laughed at, then hooted at
as a crazy man and reviled, and at last persecuted as a sedi
tious person, preaching wrong doctrines. Persecution brought
him followers, as it always has done, and in a few years the
crazy convalescent found himself quite a popular leader in his
own country — a sort of " Joe Smith," and possessing consider
able influence.
His doctrines were very obscure, tinged with the principal
features of the Christian creed ; he insisted, however, on tem
perance in every respect — on the strictest morality, prohibiting
the use of opium, and requiring his disciples to cut off their
pig-tails, and leave their heads unshorn.
Anything approaching to the supernatural, even in our own
country, where, through the advantages of universal education,

HEIN TUNG. 283
all are supposed to be capable of penetrating the thin veil of
trickery which covers the motives of its originators, is eagerly
seized upon, and the more astoundingly impious the pretensions
of its inventor, the greater the number of its votaries. What
wonder, then, that in a country so ripe for revolution, where
superstition and ignorance reign supreme — where any change
must be beneficial to the masses, that Tai-Ping-Wang, who
aspired to be the "Son of God," the " All Powerful," who
could work miracles, and do all sorts of supernatural things —
who promised eternal happiness to all who would follow him —
who, unlike other leaders, showed a marked sympathy with the
poor and suffering — what wonder that he, under these circum
stances, should attract, in a country whose population is as the
sands on the sea-shore, an army of adherents ? From far and
near they came and joined themselves to the standard, I was
almost going to say of the cross, till at last that band of out
laws, with a crazy fanatic for a leader, has swelled into an army
of millions of men, before whose advance the imperial troops
recoil in dread. Possessed of the finest provinces of China,
with a large standing army, in good discipline, and in many in
stances armed with effective weapons, it is a matter of strong
probability that the poor farmer's son — the country schoolmaster
— the plucked scholar — the crazy fanatic — the Tai-Ping- Wang
— the Eldest Son of God, may soon sit on the imperial throne,
and drive back to the worship of their Grand Lama, the Man-
tchou Tartars who have so long trodden the Chinese in the dust.
The reigning emperor, Hein Tung, ascended the throne in
1851, in the forty-sixth year of his age. He is the seventh
emperor of the reigning or Mantchou Tartar dynasty, whose
chief Tchoutchi was proclaimed in 1644 a.p. The family of the

284 THE REIGNING DYNASTY.
emperor is composed of four sons and a daughter. The elder,
Yeh Wei, heir to the throne, is now nineteen years old ; the
young prince is well educated, but, like his father, hates with a
deadly hatred all foreigners. The ministers are fourteen in
number, and are possessed of enormous power, and are divided
into two distinct classes. The first and most important are the
cabinet ministers, four in number, the other ten being charged
with the government of the provinces. They transmit to those
at Pekin all documents which interest the emperor, and they
become, in a measure, his masters. It may be easily under
stood how, with such ministers, the emperor can know nothing
of what is going on in the world, and that no fact is ever com
municated to him in its true light ; consequently, he is utterly
ignorant of all that is passing in his kingdom, that his minis
ters do not wish him to become acquainted with ; this will ac
count for the difficulty which our envoys have met with in en
deavoring to treat with the Court of Pekin, for it is manifestly
to the advantage of the minister to keep his master from com
ing in contact with men, who once brought in connection with
the supreme head of the government, would very soon expose
to him the trickery of its underlings, costing them, if not their
heads, at least their rank.
A cordon of junks, employed in fishing, lines the shores of
China at a distance of sixty or seventy miles from it. These
boats go in pairs, and dragging a seine between them share the
produce of their mutual labor ; these juuks are sometimes very
large, the average size being about a couple of hundred tons,
and are manned by several families who own them jointly and
are supported by the proceeds of the sales of fish. It is a strange
sight, on first approaching the coast, to see myriads of these

1'ILilTS AND PIRATES. 285
picturesque-looking craft, cruising in pairs and dashing about
under the influence of the strong monsoon generally blowing;
indeed it is only due to the extraordinary dexterity of the
Chinese in managing their craft that they do not constantly
come in collision with each other and sink. It is not a very
pleasant sensation on being caught among them on a dark
night, in an unwarned merchantman, to feel that each and every
one of these fishermen is ready upon an emergency to turn
pirate, and that, thoroughly armed, they only want the impulse,
to make them pounce upon and massacre you without remorse
Making the land, on nearing a port, a mite of a sampan (Chinese
boat) the frailest, prettiest looking little thing imaginable, comes
dancing under your stern, looking like a mere feather on the
billow. Hailing your vessel, the Chinaman singing out enquires
in the dialect of the coast, " Captain, wantchee pilot" ? " Aye
aye," says the master, never deigning to back a top sail to let
the poor devil get aboard ; but there is no necessity for it, for
no sooner does the fellow get an affirmative answer, than, making
a tack or two, he swings under your bow, and just as you are
holding your breath, thinking that you have run over him, he
pops up over the bow and presents himself to you for duty.
Looking around to see what has become of the sampan, you
spy it towing astern, and the old women and children (wife and
family of the pilot), calmly eating their dinner or supper, as if
perfectly contented with themselves and things generally. My
first entrance into China was made through the Limoon pass
age into Hong-Kong harbor, a narrow strait dividing the
Island of Hong-Kong from the main.
The afternoon was a beautiful one, and the bright sunbeams
shining on the green mountain side looked cheerful and invit-

286

LIMOON PASSAGE.

ing, more especially as the previous week had been dark and
stormy. Quickly we threaded our way among the hundred junks
which, reefed down to the brisk breeze then blowing, were bob
bing up and down, apparently in inextricable confusion.
As we drew nearer in with the land, the smaller sampans
briskly skipping over the waves, came dancing around us
Shooting in the narrow channel scarce a mile wide in some
places, we watched with anxiety to see how our pilot would
handle our heavy ship, but soon found that she was in com
petent hands, as he worked her gradually up. The passage ii
a deep cut through the mountains, a volcanic chasm, the lofty
hills rising up on either side clothed in a lovely verdure, gene
rally uninhabited, though here and there was a cluster of fisher
men's huts hidden in some- secure little haven.
As we advanced, the land on the island showed signs of
civilization ; a tall mass of stone buildings we were informed was
a hospital where the garrison, debilitated by the heat of Hong-
Kong, were sent to recuperate. Just as it had got fairly dark,
we shot through the narrows and opened the broad bay of
Hong-Kong ; the dark peak of Victoria soared up to the black
sky, while around its base the thousand lamps glittering, and
running up the mountain side, indicated the whereabouts of the
city. Winding through the shipping, steamers, junks, heavy men-
of-war and lorchas, we luffed into the wind, when splash went
the anchor I and then I felt myself to be really in China.
My duty through with, I lit my cheroot and, avoiding others,
took a meditative walk in the waist.
Here was I in China, the jabbering of the hundred bumboat-
men in the sampans hovering around me convinced me of that,
fir,

HONG-KONG. 2S7
while the clang of numberless gongs on board some newly-
arrived fleet told me that I could be nowhere else.
My meditations were however of a practical character ; as I
hinted before, my expedition down to Singapore was not a lucra
tive one, and not " to put too fine a point upon it," as Dickens
would say, I was left with scarcely a cent to bless myself
with. So that on my arrival at Hong-Kong my services had only
brought me in some twenty dollars, which was the extent of my
finances : this in itself was a fact worthy of some consideration,
and it required all the sedative influence of my cheroot to eon-
sole me under my adverse circumstances. Fifteen or twenty
thousand miles away from home, a stranger in a strange land,
without a soul I had ever before laid eyes upon, was not a plea
sant reflection; but like Mr. Micawber, I was hopeful that some
thing would turn up, and that if I couldn't get command of a
vessel and go into her cabin, why I must e'en ship before the
mast and go into her forecastle. So disposing of the matter in
that manner, I drew my jacket close around me and stowing
myself in the quarter-boat, lay listening to the delightful band
which was playing, on the quarter-deck of the British ship of
the line laying not far from us, until I gradually fell asleep, but a
smart shower driving down from the mountain soon aroused
me, and drove me to my cabin.
Hong-Kong harbor is as lively a looking place as I know of
anywhere, indeed I. do not remember in all my wanderings to
have been more favorably impressed with any view than I was
with that which the rising sun unfolded on the morning follow
ing the night of my arrival.
It was a bright Sunday morning in January, the air was
J*

288 THE CITY.
cool and bracing, and although so very early, the northeast
monsoon blew a stiff breeze oyer the bay, causing a considera
ble sea, and forcing the hundred sampans dancing about us to
take a reef in their bamboo sails.
Overhanging our mast heads, frowned down upon us the
peak of Victoria, whose base forms the island of Hong-Kong,
and plastered as it were against its eastern extremity was the
city, seemingly as if the houses had been thrown at the niouu-
taiu's side and had stuck fast on its precipitous sides, for it is
only when approaching it closely that the eye can discern any
level spot on which one would suppose a house could be erected.
Indeed, after all, there are but 'few enough of them, only the
width of a single street, and after it, streets rise one above
another ou terraces, one being obliged in going through the
city to make numberless ascents and descents, up and down
stairs, which in that warm climate is not at all a desirable
mode of progression.
This terracing of the mountain side gives the town a most
picturesque look. Indeed, one seldom sees more startling
effects produced by grouping of houses ou level ledges, or
perching of churches or ornamental buildings on uncertain-
looking crags, than he does at Hong-Kong ; and at night,
as the ranges of lighted lamps rise, one above another, with
here and there a galaxy of brighter lights issuing from the
gothic panes of the cathedral, the windows of the govern
ment house, or mayhap from the Hindoo»burial-pIace, illumi
nated for ceremonial, the effect is very fine and beautiful.
The spacious bay, extending for several miles, from the
Limoon on the one extremity to Green Island on the other,
and stretching across from the foot of the mountain to the

TERRIBLE INSTANCE OF PIRACY. 2S9
hilly shores of tbe Kowloon on the main, bears upon its
bosom about as varied a fleet of vessels as ever crowded the
waters of any bay.
The lion and the lamb lie down together. Under the very
shadows of the fleet of men-of-war stationed here for no
other purpose in the world, than to exterminate the pirates,
lay scores of junks, whose sole and only business in the world
is to rob the weaker, though ostensibly engaged in fishing.
Being heavily armed, they hunt down and pillage all other
craft not so strong as they are. They are not particular
about the flag, but show equal favors to all. Their own
countrymen they have a weakness for; but their bloodthirsty
ferocity is more particularly excited when brought in contact
with the Fanqui, or foreigner. Not content with robbing,
they torture and murder all who fall in their power. It seems
an impossibility to exterminate them, for so numerous are
they, that although hundreds are yearly destroyed, thousands
of others are ready to take their places. In the harbor of
Hong-Kong itself, under the very guns of the frigates, ves
sels have been boarded and pillaged without exciting a sus
picion of what was going on.
A case occurred, when I was in Hong-Kong, of unparal
leled audacity and barbarity. A pretty little brig, an opium
clipper, being ready for sea, the captain went on board, ac
companied by several friends, myself among the number, to
speed him on his voyage with their good wishes and a part
ing glass.
The style of craft being new to me, I examined into every
thing much more closely than I otherwise would have done,
and going into a little armory, I found the mate superin
13

290 TREACHERY AND MURDER.
tending the cleaning of some muskets. In couversation with
him regarding the necessity of so heavy an armament, he
rather carelessly replied that he wished there was not an
arm aboard ship, as they were very troublesome to keep in
order, and were rarely used ; and I noticed, at the same
time, that after having them burnished up, they were not
recharged. I extended my walk forward among the crew,
and although I noticed several Manilamen and Chinese, who
had not the best faces in the world, still I remember that I
was impressed with their contentment, and with the idea t"hat
they were a very orderly and well disciplined set of men.
Shaking hands with our friend the skipper, we passed
over the side and went ashore. Not three hours had
elapsed (we hardly thought the vessel had weighed anchor —
in fact, she had never got outside the harbor) before we
were horrified by the report that the brig was being brought
in by a man-of-war's boat, and that every white man had
been murdered by the Chinese and Manilamen, who had re
venged themselves and then escaped in the boats.
Jumping into my boat, I pulled aboard, and witnessed the
most horrible sight it has ever been my illfortune to look
upon ; the captain, covered with wounds, was lying^stark and
dead, and his faithful dog, also mortally wounded, was stretched
upon his. bosom, with a faint low wail, and licking his master's
face ; the mates too, lay weltering in their blood, their torn
clothes and fractured furniture showing that they had not
given in without a struggle.
The cabin, which we had ' left the picture of neatness and
comfort, was a ruin ; every article of furniture, dashed into a
thousand pieces, testified to the desperate struggle its inmates

LOOKING FOR EMPLOYMENT. 291
had made for their lives; and a barometer, a very heavy instru
ment, and very strongly secured, had, in their desperation,
been wrenched from its fastenings, showing the superhuman
strength possessed by man when struggling for life. It was
evident that the Chinese and Manilamen had deliberately
concocted their plot before leaving the harbor, either for re
venge, or for the purpose of gaining the advanced wages; and
they had, doubtless, predicated their success upon the careless
ness of the mate in not charging the firearms. This was done
in open daylight, almost under the very guns of the man-of-
war, and yet the perpetrators escaped. The English jurisdic
tion only extends half way across the bay, so that as long as
these pirates keep on their side of the harbor, and do not
molest the Europeans, the men-of-war do not interfere, and one
may often hear heavy firing, and see the flash of guns at mid
night, the result of an engagement between these precious
rascals and an intended victim.
Merchant ships of all nations frequently fall victims to these
outlaws, who, heavily armed, lie in wait for the unwary, and
once in their power, there is no hope; torture and assassination
are sure to follow capture.
My first step on going ashore was to look around me to see
what I could do to make the pot boil, for I had no idea of let
ting people know that I was, as they say in California, " dead
broke." Knocking around among the shipmasters, I found
that there was a scarcity of officers, and that high wages were
being paid to respectable men, as mates, especially for Coolie
ships, of which there were a great number fitting out, bound
for Australia and California. Fixing upon a pretty clipper
brig as the most desirable, I made application to the captain,

292 PLEASANT PLACE.
and was accepted, sur le champ, as the Frenchman have it,
was paid $100 advance, and what was best of all, was in
formed that my services would not be required for a fortnight,
thus giving me an opportunity for seeing Macao and Canton,
and enjoying myself generally. Cat-like, and with my usual
good luck, I had fallen upon my feet, and among good Samar
itans, having taken lodgings at the City Hotel, kept upon
the Americo-Anglo-Chinese plan, by one Marcus Shaw, as good-
hearted a little Englishman as ever drank toddy, with' spacious
billiard rooms, and bowling saloons ; it was the resort of the
fancy of Hong-Kong, i. e. the army and navy officers, and
shipmasters generally.
Arriving quite late at night, I went directly to my room
without meeting mine host ; indeed, for that matter no foreigner
at the head of an establishment of that sort, ever takes the
slightest apparent interest in the conducting of it ; his Chinese
comprador receives the guests, provides for them, presents his
bill and receives payment, very often without the party ever
seeing the landlord.
Next morning, on opening my eyes, I saw, standing motion
less by my bedside, a knowing-looking Chinaman holding a
tray on which were the component parts for an eye opener in
the way of a brandy cocktail, with a little " chit," (Anglice note)
from mine host, requesting the pleasure of my company to
breakfast at his private table at eleven, and begging me to con
sider the boy as my peculiar attendant.
John, after mixing me a most reviving potion, readjusted my
mosquito bar, and leaving me to finish my nap, proceeded to
open my boxes and to arrange my clothes for the day's toilet.
I was at first rather astonished, and watched master John

MINE HOST AND PRETTY WIFE. 293
through my half-closed eye, but soon found that he "knew what
he was about, so I rolled over for another nap. At ten I was
again awakened by Ganymede, when, declining a repetition of
the cocktail, I proceeded with my toilet, and presented myself
to mine host in his private apartments, where, for the first time,
I had the pleasure of seeing him.
After being introduced to his wife, we proceeded to discuss
the most sumptuous repast I had tasted in the East. After
breakfast I was told to consider myself perfectly at home in
these apartments and not to think of dining at the table d'hote;
but that his dinner was served at seven, and that he would
take it as a personal favor if I would consider myself a stand
ing guest. This attention was quite overwhelming, inasmuch
as I was quite at a loss to account for it ; but accepting it as
a special dispensation of Providence in my behalf, I thanked
my entertainer, and having nothing particular to do, proceeded
to cultivate the acquaintance of his very pretty wife, and
examined the contents of his library.
Time passed pleasantly enough ; the billiard tables were
first-rate, and the bowling alleys a la mode ,de New York, while
mine host's table and wines, not to speak of his guests, gener
ally good fellows from the garrison, were unexceptionably jolly.
Notwithstanding the delightful manner in which time was
slipping by, I had always staring me in ^he face the disagree
able necessity I should be under of soon going aboard ship to
'lead a gang of ruffianly sailors, which occupation would not be
in pleasant contrast with the life I was leading
Lounging about the streets one day, I met, to my astonish
ment, an old friend, Ned S  , who had just come over from
California. He was greatly surprised at seeing me, and on

294 BULL BY THE HORNS.
fiuding out how I was situated and my intentions, how I had
taken the " bull by the horns," he entered a solemn protest
upon my going off on any wild-goose chase, and insisted that I
should apply to the master of the vessel that I had shipped
aboard of. to rescind the contract.
A week after my arrival, together with my friend Ned, and
half a dozen others desirous to see the Chinese waters in
the vicinity of Canton to advantage, eschewing steam, after a
long consultation, we determined on chartering a fast boat, a
vessel of some thirty tons, between a sampan and a. junk, with a
very pretty model, schooner rigged in the Chinese style, of bam
boo sail, etc. etc. This expedition was considered by prudent
folks to be what insurance people consider extra hazardous,
owing to the great numbers of pirates that infest these waters ;
but as these fast boats always go heavily armed with, at least,
two six-pounders, and as we were each provided with a cutlass
a revolver and a rifle, we had the vanity to consider ourselves
a match for a hundred coolies with any number of stink-pots
or two-handed swords.
By way of parenthesis, it might be well to state, that these
stink-pots are a very effective weapon, and by no means belie
their name, for a viler odor than they emit when they burst
upon an enemy's deck never offended nautical olfactories.
Having equipped guv craft, armory and larder, we proceeded
to elect our officers, for some system was necessary in case of a
sudden attack. The rank assigned me was that of second-lieu
tenant, of which distinction I was utterly unworthy, as my no
tions of military tactics were extremely dim, while I was about
as familiar with the use of the sword as I was of a chop-stick.
However, I bore my honors meekly ; endeavored to assume a

ENCOUNTER- WITH PIRATES. 295
very dignified demeanor, and drew up my recruits in position
after the most approved West Point style. My company con
sisted of four Chinese boys, our servants, men of mighty valor,
two Englishmen, a Frenchman, and two or three coolies, hands
belonging to the junk.
My efforts to drill them into something like unity of action
were laughable ; and endeavoring to teach Master John Coolie
how to load and fire a rifle, I came very near converting my
self into a target; for, after teaching him to load once or
twice, I told him to do it on his own hook, when, to my utter
consternation, he pointed the rifle just sufficiently elevated to
cover my head, shut his eyes and let drive ; the ball struck in
a beam over my head, about six inches above the level of the
cranium, and my fist struck Master John under the chin, which
sent him flying into the caboose, to the consternation of the cook.
We were only called into active service but on two occa
sions. The first time was about midnight ; we were sailing
quietly along among a lot of juuks, and all were asleep but the
Chinaman at the helm and the sentry, who, I am sure, was not
more than half awake, if he was so at all ; suddenly, however,
feeling, I suppose, the responsibility of his situation, he pulled
open his eyes, when, to his consternation, he found a junk close
aboard us, and by way of giving the alarm, let drive with his
revolver right into the crowd on her decks. Whether or not,
in the first instance, she had meditated hostilities we never
knew ; but, probably, taking us for a bona-fide corsair, she
fired away a big gun point blank at us, and then rained upon
us a perfect shower of stink-pots,* which emitted an odor some-
* The stink-pot is a smaU hand-grenade, filled with snlphur, which, bursting on an
enemy's deck, momentarily suffocates all in its vicinity.

"206 I AM WOUNDED.
thing like that which is said to prevail in the infernal regions,
although I, for my own part, do not believe his horned majesty
ever smelt anything half so overpowering.
Aroused by the first alarm, we rushed pell-mell on deck, each
with his weapons in his hands, and the companion ladder being
narrow, in our hot haste we came very near being jammed im
movably together.
If it had not been so serious a matter, it would have been a
comical sight to have witnessed a dozen men, sans-culottes,
rushing up a narrow stairway, each carrying a small armament.
I remember very distinctly that the man who followed me up
the ladder had a musket with a fixed bayonet, which, in his
anxiety to get up, he thrust into my thigh, thus drawing the
first blood on our side.
Reaching the deck, we found that the China boys had just
poured in a broadside with their two six pounders, and had
evidently disconcerted our assailants. Without comment, we
kept up a steady fire upon him with our small arms, so much so
that Master Chinaman lost no time in getting under cover, and
began to find out that he was barking up the wrong tree ;
evidently counting upon an easy conquest of a fishing boat,
never dreaming of a score of western devils lying in wait for
him ; so, after treating us to a few more stink-pots, he squared
away and left us, victorious, without our having the slightest
desire to follow him.
Mustering our forces, we counted noses, and found that,
though much begrimed with gunpowder and half suffocated
with the stink-pots, there was not a single man wounded, with
the exception of myself, for I had just begun to find out that
the poke I got behind from the bayonet of my friend coming

B0GUE FORTS. 297
up the companion-way was painful, although not serious, and
that I was losing considerable blood ; free applications of wa
ter and linen bandages very soon set me all right again.
Assembling in the cabin, we told of our doughty deeds over
a big tin pail of punch, which was brewed by our steward in
honor of our victory ; there mighty feats of valor were recount
ed; the oftener the glasses were replenished the doughtier were
the deeds that were done, and the more eloquent the toasts in
honor of the illustrious wounded.
The rage of our Coolie captain was beyond description when
he found that his foremast was chipped, and that his galley had
been burglariously entered by a brace of six pound shots, to
the utter destruction of all his cooking utensils; and to have
heard his unpronouncable execrations as he swayed to and fro
on his cane stool would doubtless have been awful, had we been
able to understand them.
Notwithstanding our piratical encounter at the outset of
our voyage, we had a delightful trip. Booming along with a
leading breeze, we coasted the many green islets studding the
mouth of the Canton River, and, on the next morning after our
departure, found ourselves under the muzzles of the guns of the
Bogue forts, where the river contracts into a very narrow
pass ; these fortifications run along the base of the mountains,
on either side of the river, while a wall extends all the way to
their summit, the batteries being along the edge the water.
This renders them very effective, as far as ships go, but as
their rear is not all defended, they could very easily be taken,
by landing a force which would march up the other side of the
hill, and getting their guns into position, play away upon the
batteries below. During the opium war, the English adopted
13*

298 WHAMPOA.
this plan with success, much, however, to the disgust of the
Chinamen, who insisted that this was not a fair way of fight
ing. Entering the narrow passage, we soon came upon the town
of Whampoa, whose heights are crowned with an imposing-
looking pagoda, half covered with ivy. This is at the head of
ship navigation, and here all vessels take in cargo. The pre
sence of forty or fifty vessels naturally creates a large trade ;
and besides the traders, there are half a dozen hulks or chops
moored, which serve as chandlers' stores.
Thejlistance to Canton is about seven miles, but the river
is not navigable for vessels drawing a heavy draft of water.
we sailed slowly up, and viewed admiringly the green fields,
the fresh-looking groves, the villages, and the tall pagodas, as
they loomed up in the mist. Just after dusk, we found our
selves nearing the city. Approaching the city of Canton in
the dim moonlight, we find ourselves rapidly gliding through
a maze of intricate passages, and are thunderstruck with the
intrepidity of our helmsman, as he guides our awkward-looking
craft, under full headway, among the hundreds and thousands
of vessels which lay moored on the bosom of the river. First
we came up with some enormous junks, looking half European,
half Chinese, which lay in tiers, partly submerged, along the
edge of the river. These craft were built to fight the English
during the opium war ; for, the celestials finding their own
craft insufficient to cope with the Western devils, thought they
would imitate their vessels, and forthwith built some huge
craft, very nearly resembling the English frigates, but which
the Fanqui (foreigners) took the liberty of sinking as soon as
completed. Further along we come upon some immense

CANTON RIVER. 299
floating structures, looking like lofty warehouses, and which
indeed are such, to a certain extent, but which are also used
as canal boats, conveying grain from one end of the empire to
another. Now we come upon a compact mass of boats of every class
and description, and in them permanently reside the floating
population of the city of Canton, numbering over 300,000
souls I These people are born, marry, and die, and, in a word,
begin and end their existence on the water, and they seldom
dream of setting foot on land.
These boats, twenty to thirty deep, regularly intersected by
avenues, cover miles, and have their wants supplied by ambu
latory salesmen, who ply on the watery streets. Of this vast
population, some dwell in decorated river-boats used for every
purpose of license and luxury ; for theatres, for concerts, for
feats, for gambling, for lust, for opium-smoking. Some craft
are employed in conveying passengers, and in a state of con
stant activity ; some are moored, whose proprietors have
pursuits as varied as those of the land population. Some are
of enormous size, magazines for salt and rice. Some are called
centipedes, from having a hundred rowers, and which act as
express-boats, flying quickly to and fro ; besides the smug
boats, with their heavy armaments, the mandarin boats, the
lorcha, and the little sampan, pulled by women, and flying
from ship to ship, begging a fare.
Returning from my excursion to Canton, I had the disagree
able necessity of going aboard ship, as per agreement, staring
me in the face, and I was getting my sea-rig for a long and
rough cruise, when, one morning, my friend Ned bounced into
my room, and, half hauling me out of bed, by way of awaken-

300 in luck's way.
ing me, informed me that he had just purchased the brigantine
F  , formerly an opium-clipper, and that he would be glad
if I would take command ! It did not take long for me to
dress that morning. Of course, I accepted at once, with the
proviso, that Captain L  would rescind my engagement
as officer of his vessel, which I knew he would do, with great
pleasure, for he was a first-chop man, as the Chinamen would
say. We struck a bargain seriatim. I was to go aboard at
once, take charge, and get her ready for sea, to take a cargo
of Coolies for Sydney, and was to have $150 per month, and a
month's wages in advance to pay my bills. This was unlooked-
for good luck, and I felt as proud as a pashaw with three
tails. Walking down to the mole, I hailed a sampan, and in five
minutes stood upon the deck of my new command. She was a
beauty, for although very old, yet she was clipper in proportion,
every inch of her, and as prettily sparred and as jaunty a little
craft as I ever saw in the water.
Doffing my shore rig, I went to work at once, and with my
boy, Achun, the very best and most honest Chinaman, I do
beheve, that ever lived, and a gang of Coolie riggers and
stevedoresJin a fortnight I announced my craft ready for sea.
During this time we were anchored in the roadstead, and as
the northeast monsoon was blowing unusually strong, I had to
"keep a bright look-out that she did not drag ; during the day
time, there was no danger of it, as the Chinamen at work on
board were always on the look-out, but at sunset, they all went
ashore, leaving master Achun and myself alone ; consequently,
the duty of keeping watch devolved upon myself, and many a long
and stormy night have I promenaded her decks, in doubt

A NARROW ESCAPE. 301
whether or not to let go a second anchor. I had four dogs as
companions, all pups however, but vigilant little rascals, con
stantly yelping and barking if a boat passed within a quarter
of a mile of us ; in fact, they were getting to be so great a
nuisance, that I had partially made up my mind to present the
whole batch to my sampan man for his Christmas dinner ; but,
fortunately, my design was never carried out; indeed my
humane forbearance saved my life, in this wise : One dark,
stormy, blowy night, after having spent three or four hours
on deck, paying out chain, I at last let go my second anchor
in disgust, and turned in. Scarcely were my eyes shut,
when all four dogs commenced a simultaneous yelp ; in vain
I sung out to them to keep quiet — the more they barked ; till
at last, becoming alarmed lest something extraordinary should
have occurred, I seized my pistol and a lantern, and rushed out
again into the storm. The wind was piping a hurricane — the
brig was surging and tugging at her anchors, as if she would
part her chains, and the sea was a perfect glare of ghostly
phosphorescent light, but notwithstanding the excitement of
the dogs, there was nothing to be seen. I patted them and
tried to quiet them, but they would not be pacified, and
continued a low, uneasy growl. I searched the vessel on deck
and below, but could find nothing suspicious, yet I felt uncom
fortable, knowing what a charming locality I was in, with the
uncertainty whether or not the junk lying astern was a pirate
or a lawful trader. Finding nothing, and bestowing an ill-
humored kick upon the most vociferous of the dogs, I descended
into my cabin, when, after barricading the door and placing
my cocked pistol and a big knife on the table by my head,
I disposed myself for a nap. My cabin was aft and between

302 AN AMATEUR THUG.
decks, and under it was the run of the vessel, which was used
as a cabin store-room, and a hatchway under the cabin table
led down into it, so that a person below need only shove the
hatch off with his hand, and jump on the cabin floor ; this
opening was covered by my chest, which I had inadvertently
placed there out of the way. Never dreaming of searching
this place, I was soon asleep from sheer fatigue ; the next day,
having occasion for a spar which I had remembered seeing
down in the run, I dispatched a couple of boys below to get it
up ; in a moment, up they rushed with eyes distended and hair
standing straight up, yelling out, " Man-ee, Man-ee." Seizing
my knife, I drove them down to show me what they had seen,
when, to my consternation, I found a Malay, with great
glaring eyes, stowed away directly under my cabin, which,
with a little effort, he might have entered at pleasure. Send
ing a boy up for my revolver, cocking it and taking aim at his
head, I invited him out of his hiding-place, assuring him that a
second bidding would be accompanied with a leaden argument.
Crawling out, he displayed about as forbidding an appear
ance as ever did an Indian thug ; abject and quivering with
fear, but his wicked eyes flashing at ill-suppressed spite;
walking him on deck, and relieving him of a villainous-looking
kris with a keen blade and jagged back— a tap from a heaver
sent him headlong into the sea ; where he went I did not take
/ the trouble to look, but there is no doubt he swam ashore, as
the gallows was too plainly marked on his brow for him to be
drowned ; where he came from, I cannot imagine, but suppose
he swam off with the intention of murder and robbery, which
he would in all probability have accomplished, had it not been
for the puppies. The next day, I invested a whole string of

I DO A L I T T L E FINANCIERING. 303
cash in dog meat for their benefit, and they had a regular
tuck-out, so much so, that a little Newfoundland got a fit from
indigestion, and departed this life in a convulsion.
My pretty little brig was transformed by the carpenter into
a regular ark, for, expecting to carry a large number of pas
sengers, a house six feet high was run from the foremast chock
aft. In order to save room, instead of taking my water in
casks, I had teak-wood tanks built, corresponding.to the model
of the vessel, and an awful job I had in stowing them and
filling them, and in getting aboard the provisions arid fuel for
the voyage ; working with a gang of ship coolies, who could
not understand a word of English, I was obliged, in order to
explain myself, to take hold and give a practical illustration of
my meaning, and I am sure my best friend would not have
known had he seen me in my costume of blue shirt and canvas
breeches, begrimed with tar and dust.
On purchasing the vessel, my friend Ned had at once char
tered her for a voyage to Australia for as much as she had
cost him, the charterer to make necessary alterations, and to
find provisions and water, thus virtually getting the brig for
nothing, for the charter money was to be paid down as soon as
the alterations were commenced, and which on being paid, was
immediately handed over to the owner as purchase money,
leaving Ned sole owner of a brig, worth at least $5,000, and
for which he had not paid a single cent.
Ready for sea, the government measurer came on board,
and to our dismay, reported her as only having capacity for 60
passengers ; this was absurd, for she could accommodate
double that number without any inconvenience. The Chinese
charterer was desperately cut down, but he had no re-

304 I BECOME A SHIPOWNER ONCE MORE.
course, for the charter party read, " as many passengers only
as. the law allows;" there was no way of getting' over it. After
cursing to' the extent of his ability, he offered me $3,000 if I
would put the vessel under the Chinese flag. (I was then sail
ing under the English colors) and take 120 instead of Q0 pas
sengers. I told him that I had nothing to say in the matter,
but would consult my owner. Jumping into my boat, I laid
the case before my friend Ned, when he told me that he would
leave it altogether with me, but, that as he had paid nothing
for the vessel, if I would give him $1,500 he would sign a quit
claim in my favor. Meeting the charterer, I informed him
that I would accede to his proposition, providing he would pay
me $1,500 down, and the balance on the day of sailing. He
at once accepted the terms, when, counting out the dollars, I
immediately passed them over to friend Ned, receiving a bill of
sale of the brig.
So here I was, in three weeks after my arrival penniless in
China, the master and owner of a snug vessel.
Getting ready for sea, we got our chop, or ship's papers (an
immense roll of parchment inscribed with Chinese characters),
and setting our flag, a huge banner of blue silk, with half a
dozen red streamers attached, we dropped down to Green Is
land, out of English jurisdiction, in order to be out of reach of
the passenger laws.
Getting an offer for half the vessel, I disposed of a part, and
putting the proceeds in my pocket, together with the $1,500,
balance of the. charter money, I put another man in my place
as captain, and proceeded with a pocket full of rocks, as the
saying goes, to make a tour of China, intending to take a
steamer down to Australia, in order to anticipate the arrival

MACAO. 305
of the brig and dispose of her there. Making rather a longer
stay however in China than I had intended, the vessel got to
Singapore before I did, and after taking in water aud provi
sions, was wrecked on her way through the straits of Sunda.
The particulars of the disaster I never heard ; all that I know
is, that between the captain and the charterer, there were
considerably over the stipulated number of passengers, and I
am inclined to think, that the captain was not sorry when she
stranded, thus relieving him of the responsibility of striking
out into the stormy Indian ocean, in an old vessel, with a great
excess of passengers.
One of the loveliest places in China is the city of Macao,
and it is the resort of the Canton merchants, whither, enervated
by the extreme heat of the factories, they retire to recuperate
among its delightful retreats. MACAO.
The mere fact of Macao being the burial-place of Camoens,
the sweet poet of the Portuguese, would invest it with the
mantle of immortality.
Among its most interesting memorials is the grotto of
Camoens, a rudely constructed temple standing on the brink of.
a precipice commanding a most glorious prospect over the pen
insula, and here he wrote his famous " Lusiad."
The son of a ship-captain, he was born at Lisbon in 1524, and
being placed at college at Coimbra he fell passionately in love
with a lady of the palace, and was banished on this account
to Santarem. Here he poured forth his spirit of poetry, and
bewailed his broken hopes in numbers which are compared to
Dante and to Tasso.

306

CAMOENS.

Despair preying on his mind, he enlisted and fought at
Morocco. In the midst of battle he wrote his immortal
verses. At the siege of Cuta he lost an eye while gallantly
fighting ; but no notice being taken of his bravery, or his mis
fortune, he became disgusted and embarked for India, and
finally settled in Macao.
Leisure was found at length for the embodiment of his great
conception, and selecting Vasco de Gama's Indian expedition
as the subject, he devoted the best years of his life to the com
position of the " Lusiad," whose versification is so charming
and harmonious that not only the minds of the cultivated, but
the common people were enraptured with it, and committed
portions of it to memory.
Macao, once the stronghold of the Portuguese in the East in
their palmy days of naval supremacy, has now dwindled into
complete insignificance as far as commercial or political impor
tance is concerned ; and although its elegant structures, and
its romantic harbor still remain, the town Macao is only
known to a few valetudinarians who resort there to escape the
stifling heat of Canton or of Hong-Kong.
It is indeed a lovely spot, and as imposing as it is lovely. The
Praya Grande, a fine esplanade, runs along the beach, faced by
elegant stone structures, built after the style of the last cen
tury, combining European solidity with oriental elegance.
Among them is the palace of the governor, the English facto
ries and the custom houses. Gazing upon these splendid piles
of buildings one can scarcely realize that they are almost unoc
cupied, and that with all these, facilities for business there is
absolutely nothing doing.
Beyond the praya there is a heterogeneous mass of dwellings,

SENTIMENT IN A CHAPEL. 307
palatial buildings with massive walls and lofty ceilings, em
bowered in shrubbery emitting the loveliest perfumes. These
dwellings, too, are only occupied part of each year by mer
chants from Canton and Hong Kong, who come here to rusti
cate. Beyend this is the China quarter, very unimposing, but con
taining an immense number of inhabitants.
There are many magnificent gardens growing the rarest
flowers and the most delicious fruits, while from their terraces
stretch away enchanting views seaward. It is in one of these
lovely paradises in which is located the grove of Camoens, and
who could wonder at his inspiration on -so peerless a spot ?
The inhabitants appear to partake of the dead-and-alive
appearance of the whole place — a cross between the Chinese
and the Portuguese, the majority of them are almost revolting
to look upon. Nevertheless, there is some pure blood, and
among the Portuguese there is a great deal of intelligence"' and
beauty. Kneeling at early dawn before the altars of San Jose in that
most romantic little chapel, on looking about me I have seen
peering through those graceful coquettish veils as lovely eyes
and as soft as ever gleamed from Spanish maid. Indeed glances
shot on the first morning that I from curiosity attended mass,
made me thereafter a devotee at the same shrine.
Taking leave of China, I embarked in the steamer Pekin
for Singapore, where I arrived after a pleasant passage of six
days.

CHAPTER XII.
SINGAPORE.
Leave for Singapore— China Sea— Shocking Contrast— Chinese, their
Improved Condition — Assimilating to Europeans — Game of Ten-pins
as played by Chinamen— London Hotel — Public Drive— The Gurries
and other Equipages— Pretty Residences— Interior— Valuable Estates
—Numbers of Tigers— Their fondness for Chinamen— The moving
Population and its Materiel — Peninsular and Oriental Steam Service 
Leave for Australia.
No city in the East presents more diversified objects of
attraction than does Singapore. The moment one opens its
broad bay his attention is diverted on every hand by strange
and picturesque objects. On the one side are moored tier on
tier of immense Chinese junks with their forests of fragile-look
ing masts, decorated with tiny, gay-colored streamers ; with
their lofty sterns, on which are crowded noisy groups of coolies
hurrying to and fro like bees in a hive; with their long pointed
bows, on either side of which glares a great eye, without which
appendage no vessel ever goes to sea. These immense con
structions, of hundreds of tons' capacity, leave China loaded
with silks and teas at the commencement of the northeast
monsoon, and sweeping, down before its blasts, soon arrive at
Singapore. When once moored in safety, their hundred owners
at once transform them into shops, or floating bazaars, and
80S

JUNKS, PROAS AND CLIPPERS. 309
barter their merchandise for the spices and ivory of the In
dies, until the southwest monsoon sets in six months later,
when they again up-sail, and after a terrific ringing of gongs
and a propitiatory burning of paper to their good god " Joss,"
they leave for home again.
Beyond the junks lie the awkward embarkations of the Cochin
Chinese, who, in their attempts to imitate the European struc
tures, have not only signally failed, but have fallen behind
their China brethren in the sea-going qualities of their
vessels. Not the least noticeable object is the Malay proa, which is
constantly flitting across the vision — a very ideal of all that is
beautiful in nautical structure; with tapering ends and swelling
sides, and flowing lateen sails, it skips over the long swells and
whirls about as if a thing of life. This proa is a sort of marine
cab, and flits from one ship to another soliciting a fare, looking
like an albatross on extended wing, while the boatman, enve
loped in the white folds of his flowing robe, with the pictu
resque turban covering his brow, appears to direct the move
ments of his ae'rio-aquatic car merely through volition, for no
one ever saw them make an effort.
Around you on all sides float the flags of every nation under
the sun. The cross of St. George, in its field of white or red ;
the lovely fleur-de-lis, the Danish cross, the German towers, the
Prussian eagle, the Yankee gridiron, and the golden banner of
Spain, wave over an infinity of shipping as varied in model and
outline as the colors which designate their nationality.
Looking shoreward, the houses peeping from the midst of
spice and palm trees, seem to have been built without regard
to each other, but picturesquely grouped by an artistic hand.

310

CHRISTIANS AND MUSSULMANS.

Jutting forth from the long rampart, like a wall surrounding
the town, comes the fortress masked by the densest foliage, the
long, black guns creeping forth from among flowering vines
like Satan from Paradise.
On going ashore, one's attention is kept on the qui vive by
the contrasts which present themselves in quick succession. A
promenade winding through avenues of spice and palm facing
the bay, and guarded by a sea-wall tells of English energy.
Bright lamps, throwing their long shadows into the dense shrub
bery, reveal the dusky Sepoy— child of 'the soil, arrayed in
British red, and doing sentinel's duty. A clattering gig, occu
pied by two corpulent gentlemen with shaved heads and long
pig-tails, with flowing robes, heralds the approach of affluent
Chinese merchants. A little gurrie or cab peculiar to the
place, attended by a Sycee coachman, who runs alongside
the horse, instead of mounting the box, quickly passes by, but
not before revealing a lovely face, whose exquisite features and
marble brow sends a thrill of sweet remembrance through the
exile's heart, and tells of the presence of European beauty.
Trotting along on his high-bred horse, comes the stately
Englishman, as stiff and starch as if pacing Rotten Row, while
sauntering along is seen the Hindoo in his pure white robe and
crimson turban. The Mussulman, likewise arrayed in. white;
the Parsee, in his crimson cap and flowing ringlets ; the
Persian, in his striped silks, and the Arab, in his head-dress of
flowing silk.
Admiringly, we pass along the promenade and enter the
extensive grounds of the London Hotel, when, attracted by a
thundering noise, proceeding from a long shed-like building,
brilliantly lighted up, we enter in, and to our amazement see

BOWLING A L'AMERICAINK. 311
before us, an American bowling saloon, complete in all its
appointments ; but what amazes us more is to see a dozen
Chinamen contesting a game with all the eagerness and heat
displayed by American players. They were fast-looking boys,
those Celestials, several of them, indeed, extremely handsome,
and dressed in the extreme " Mode de Pekin." Their efforts
to win were amazing, and still more diverting was it to see the
precision with which they poised their ball before throwing it,
as if their lives depended upon the accuracy of their aim ; and
the insane hubbub that followed a ten-strike ! Imagine twelve
Chinamen, all shouting at the top of their voices ! They
played very well, and as the pins were knocked down, the boy
who officiated would sing out in Malay the number fallen, and I
cannot forget the enthusiasm which the announcement of
" Stoppar," Anglice " ten," always elicited fron the long tails.
The London Hotel is quite an imposing structure, being
built of white stone, with a tall portico supported by pillars.
It shows very well, situated as it is in the midst of hand
some grounds. The sleeping apartments are agreeable and
airy, and the dining-room constructed by itself, separated
from the house of lattice-work, is a paragon of coolness. I
made out to pass a very pleasant fortnight within its walls,
sleeping through the heat of, the day, and in the evening,
after dinner, smoking my cheroot on its balcony, talking with
people from all over the world, who had met here as a cen
tering point in transit to the four quarters of the globe —
the conversation, a regular pot-pourri, an olla-podrida, per
fectly suited to the place in its spiciness. The smart Yan
kee, with national volubility telling of what he had seen in
Canton — the English valetudinarian, with leave from his regi- ¦

312 BUNGALOWS.
ment in Bengal, en route for Australia to brace his ener
vated constitution, cursing Indian malarias, and sighing for
the cool breezes of Scotland— the Dutchman, bouud for Java,
and the Spaniard for Manila, all joined together by tempo
rary ties of intimacy, cemented by the freemasonry of hotel
atmosphere, and making as jovial a party as if we had known
each other from our boyhood.
A creek intersects the town, dividing the commercial city
from that portion devoted to dwelling houses. These latter,
which look so prettily from the bay, lose none of their at
tractive features when viewed— as sauutering through the long
avenues on which they border, we strive to penetrate the
soft, half-illuminated obscurity which appears to pervade
them, built in Anglo-Indian style, within large spaces of
¦ ground, planted with exquisite shrubbery, lit up with trans
parent paper lanterns, aud furnished with eastern luxuriance
and lightness, and cooled with the omnipresent punJca, which,
laden with a thousand perfumes, induces a most delightful
drowsiness. The commercial town presents quite a European appear
ance, with its fine warehouses and its showy shops. And
well it may ! for the business transactions of this point are
second to none in importance in the East. The harbor, com
modious and entirely free from gales; its position is central,
the key to the Indies, and its liberal revenue laws, exacting
no duties, render it the nucleus of the whole eastern trade.
Its chief articles of exports are drugs of all kinds, tins,
spices, sugars, and tortoise-shell, while hundreds of vessels
constantly discharging there, exempt from duty, every com
modity under the sun, make it a mart for the merchants of

CHINAMEN TRANSFORMED. 313
China, Australia, and the Phillipine Islands, who thus purchase
to greater advantage than they could by a direct importation.
The largest element of the population of Singapore is the
Chinese, who comprise nearly two-thirds of its whole number
of inhabitants, and to their energy and activity may be as
cribed the wonderful prosperity of this island.
The Chinese appear here to lose, in a greater degree, their
natural characteristics of penuriousness and trickery, than in
any other country to which they migrate. In Manila, for
instance, the Chinese artisan works with unabated zeal from
early dawn to midnight, and although amassing large sums
of money, he never spends one penny more than is abso
lutely necessary for his support, never allowing himself re
creation or repose, and thinking it a part of his creed to
take advantage whenever he can do so undetected. The
higher classes of merchants are honest, indeed, but are quite
as economical, and as much averse to the indulgence of lux
uries, as their poorer brethren. This feeling, so natural in
a Chinaman, and so peculiarly characteristic, appears to have
been entirely revolutionized in Singapore, and I can only ac
count for it in this way. In Manila, and in the other parts
of the East wherever they have taken up their abode, they
have been looked upon with envy and suspicion, and as fair
game for all sorts of extortion, and there is no imaginable tax,
however burdensome, but what has been imposed upon them.
Looked down upon as brutes, they had no desire (feeling the
impossibility of so doing) to elevate themselves socially, but
consoled with the reflection, that those that persecuted them
could not compete with them, they have gone on quietly ac
cumulating, until having sufficient to satisfy their wants, they
14

314

TIGERS.

return home again. In Singapore the Chinaman pays no
heavier tax, nor is debarred from any privilege which the
European enjoys, and on evincing a desire to better his
condition by honesty and liberal dealings, he is at once taken
by the hand by the older residents, and the poor coolie who
landed only a few years before, with a little rice and his
bamboo his only earthly possessions, soon finds himself a
wealthy and respected man. Feeling that he has a position,
and living on terms of equality with his English neighbor, and
moving in a far higher rank than he could attain in his own
country, he loses aK desire to hoard, and enters into social re
lations with those around him. At his table may be met many
English guests, his purse lightens at the call of distress, and
he enters, con amore, into all the amusements of the day.
The billiard table and the bowling alley are both extensively
patronized, and on the public drives may each afternoon be
seen, in their well appointed equipages, the wealthier mer
chants rolling along, complacently nodding to their European
acquaintances. Singapore is an island of only thirty miles in length, sepa
rated from the Malayan peninsula by a narrow channel, five or
six miles in width. Only a few years since, its whole surface
was an impenetrable, jungle, but now it smiles throughout its
whole length with plantations of rice, sugar-cane, indigo and
spices, from the cultivation of which the planters realize large
sums. Some of the suburban residences are kept up with un
heard of splendor, with all the semblances of royal magnifi
cence. Indeed, one wandering among their fairy halls, en
riched with all that is luxurious from further India and from
China—floating with perfumes, agitated with gorgeous fans of

Preference for chjnamen. 315
oriental plumage, moved by unseen hands — recalls to his mind
the wondrous tales of the " Arabian Nights."
One great drawback to a country residence on this island,
is the superabundance of the Bengal tigers, whose fiercest
nature appears here to be developed : crouching in the jungle
by the road-side, they pounce upon the unwary traveller, or
the laborer in the field, and with one stroke of the paw, de
prive him of life, and then, secreting his body in the thicket,
they glut upon it at leisure.
So great is the dread inspired by these ferocious animals,
that a standing reward of $50 is offered for their skin ; but,
notwithstanding the greatness of the sum, which appears to the
poor Malay an everlasting fortune, it is impossible to extermi
nate them. Breeding in the impenetrable wilds of the main
land, they swim the narrow strait, and prowl about the plan
tations till, surfeited with their prey, they again jump into the
stream and seek their lairs.
So great was the consternation caused by an unusual num
ber of deaths by tigers in 1852, averaging considerably more
than one man per diem, and so loud the complaints of the in
habitants, that a joint stock company was formed in California,
consisting of thirty men, armed with revolver and bowie
knife, who, incited by the reward of $50 per head, were ready
to embark and sail across half the world of waters, and wage
war with the wild beasts of India.
What adds most to the variety, and constant and camelion-
like changes of the society of Singapore, consists in its
being the central depot of that mighty organization, " The
Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company." This
gigantic association possesses more steam vessels than does the
British Navy in itself, and its ramifications are more extended

316 STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
than any other private enterprise in the world ; it has in its
employ more than two thousand five hundred people, and its
salaries amount to half a million dollars ; four hundred coal
ships are constantly employed in transporting fuel to the differ
ent stations between England and Hong-Kong, and 100,000
tons are consumed at a cost of over one million dollars an
nually. The ships of this company from the Red Sea, from
Calcutta, from Australia, and from the Philippines, pour semi
monthly an incongruous mass of people into the island, who,
bound to some one of these destinations, await here the appro
priate vessel for pursuing their voyage ; this tends to give an
exceeding deal of life to the city, and likewise leaves an im
mense deal of money in it, for passengers after being cooped
up for weeks in a steamer, on being emancipated, are pro
verbially lavish in their expenditures.
The great overland mail from England, touching at Bombay
and Ceylon, meets here the steamers from Calcutta, from Hong-
Kong, and Manila, and receiving from them their passengers
bound for England, transfers to them the passengers she brought
out, and returns again on her long voyage up the Red Sea,
while the other boats leave immediately with their passen
gers and mails for their several destinations. The extreme
regularity with which all this immense machinery is kept
in motion is really wonderful, while the discipline and
order maintained on board the ships is worthy of the highest
commendation. After a delightful voyage in one of the finest of the Penin
sular and Oriental Company's ships to the Red Sea, touching
at Madras, Ceylon, and Bombay, I again returned to Singa
pore and took passage from thence in the screw ship for Aus
tralia, touching at Batavia.

CHAPTER XIII.

MELBOURNE.

Melbourne and its Appearance — My Impressions— Its Society — Wide
Streets— Its Hotels— Beautiful Suburbs— Compared to California— Its
Climate— Its Stability— I meet an old Friend— Speculation— Buy a.
Schooner— Trade to Otaheite — The Boomerang— Getting ready— My
Crew — Description of a gang of Cut-throats — Mate Mutinies — Meets
his Deserts — Delights of the Voyage.
It was a lovely day on which we first sighted the headlands of
Port Philip, and steaming in with a strong flood tide, we
rapidly passed in through the golden gate, when before us lay
the vast expanse of water known as Port Philip. The distance
from the heads to the anchorage in a direct line, is, if I remem
ber rightly, about forty miles, while the detour which vessels
of a heavy draft of water are obliged to make, lengthens it to
upwards of seventy miles. We, however, took the short cut ;
and following up the channel, with the reef on either side which
could be readily distinguished by the eye, we went puffing mer
rily up.
The channel was filled with shipping bound in and out, from
the stately clipper to the heavy old coal ship of the English
Channel ; and it was a gay sight to see them beating down or
scudding up the narrow strait, passing consequently close to us,
and, as they approached, either by signal or speaking-trumpet, 81T

318 MELBOURNE.
inquiring the news. Passing the Kght-ship, and leaving the
flourishing town of Geelong astern, we soon gained our anchor
age in Hobson's Bay, after threading our way slowly through
and among hundreds of vessels from every land under the sun.
It was a lively scene, indeed ! and just such a one as I had wit
nessed in the year 1849, when I first entered the harbor of San
Francisco. On our port hand the river Yarra-Yarra disem
bogued itself into the bay — and it, too, for several miles, was
completely blocked with smaller craft.
On this river, eight miles from its mouth, is situated the city
of'Melbourne. Entering it, the town strikes one most favor
ably ; its broad streets, its handsome stone houses, its ever-
varying stream of population, made up of every grade of
society, from the peasant to the peer, arrayed in every variety
of apparel, from the broad-brimmed hat and flannel shirt of the
miner, to the white kids and broadcloth of the exquisite. You
are amazed to see so vast a concourse of people, but are still
more surprised when, on inquiring, you are informed that the
population of this new city already exceeds 80,000 inhabitants!
You wander on through streets of extraordinary width, lined
with substantially built houses, filled with well-dressed people,
ornamented with brilliant shops ; and, were it not for the eight
yoke ox-team toiling heavily along, or the crowds of rough,
Esau-looking individuals elbowing by you in a most independent
style, or the profusion of extravagance shown in everything and
by every one, you might imagine yourself in a thriving country
town in England. Great Collins street is a splendid avenue,
traversing the city laterally, and is the grand business centre —
its width being about equal to that of the London Strand or
the New York Bowery— and along its whole length fiDe shops,

A BRIDAL CHAMBER. 319
showy hotels, and theatres, are located, and at either end
churches and parks.
There are several fine hotels, one of which, a showy and spa
cious building in Great Collins street, is really an elegant
affair, and got up on the American plan, having that very
Yankee-like adjunct, a bridal chamber, furnished in the most
luxurious style with satin, rosewood, Valenciennes lace, tapes
try curtains, Turkey carpets, etc. ; the charge, if I recollect
rightly, was a hundred dollars or twenty pounds for its occu
pancy for a single night ! exclusive of servants' fees — a liveried
footman standing outside the door at night to attend to the
wants of its occupants. Vulgar miners, who have become
suddenly rich, coming down from the " diggings to get mar
ried," often avail themselves of these luxurious lodgings. This
house was kept by two brothers, Americans, I think, from New
Orleans ; the lower floor was occupied by drinking saloons
and by an immense concert room, in which I saw a band
of Yankee negro minstrels perform. Speaking of drinking
saloons reminds me of .a custom which has recently been intro
duced there from Yankee-land, of having a regular bar-room,
and allowing the customers when they call for a drink to help
themselves from the decanter, which formerly was not the
case : for the English drinking community, not having a very
nice sense of honor, if allowed to pour out for themselves,
would perhaps fill their glass, and thus take more than their
money's worth, and therefore it has heretofore, in the old
country and in the colonies, been the custom for the bar-keepers
to pour out a sixpenny worth in a glass, and hand it to the
customer. But, since the gold discovery, there had been such
a large infusion of Yankee blood, that they would not stand

320 NOBBLERS.
any such usage as that, and insisted upon helping themselves.
The publicans were at their wits' end ; they didn't want to lose
the Yankee custom, for they were famous and frequent drinkers, so
they hit upon a plan : they invented a name for the drink which
they poured out for the customer, and atiother name for the one
which he poured out for himself — the former, called a " tod,"
cost less than the latter, called a "nobbier." The idea took
famously, and every or any hour in the day your friend would
slap you on the back and ask you to go and have a nobbier;
and eventually this became a slang word all over Australia.
The Port Philip Club Hotel, on Flinders street, was a very
fair house, but it seemed to me that its guests were principally
fast young bachelors ; at any rate, the charges were enormous.
The suburbs of the city are most extensive and beautiful,
stretching away on all sides to a considerable distance; and,
from their peculiar build, and from not being so densely settled,
with fine gardens and lawns, they presented a very picturesque
appearance. On the east, communicating with the city by
a fine avenue, lies Collingwood, a place of some considerable
size, with half a dozen churches and a theatre. A short
distance from, but really connected with it, is Richmond, also
handsomely built, with several churches and public buildings.
Praharan, still further along, is not less beautiful though not so
substantially built, and St. Kilda, on the borders of the bay
and commanding an elegant view of it, is the seat of many of
the wealthier merchants, who have there their marine villas.
Along the banks of the Yarra-Yarra are many beautiful
residences, to which the merchants retire after the fatigue and
excitement of a business day in Melbourne ; with these suburbs
there is a constant communication kept up by coaches, or

BLACK VS. WHITE. 321
omnibuses, and a person need never be at a loss to reach
either at any hour during day or night.
I was greatly struck with the similarities and dissimilarities in
the state of affairs as existing in San Francisco and Melbourne.
The same headlong race for gold characterized both places ;
the same heterogeneous masses of society thrown together, and
at once amalgamating ; the same variety of language, and of
costume ; with both of them, the same rainy season succeeded
by an intensely dry, and hot one, and both lying in the same
latitude, the one north, and the other south of the equator ;
the one about the same distance east, and the other about the
same distance west of the meridian of Greenwich.
The dissimilarities are as marked as are the analogies. In
Melbourne everything has a solid and substantial look, which
betrays care and deliberation in construction, and the wharves
and public buildings are on a grand scale. In California, the
town mostly constructed of wood and the buildings hastily
thrown together without regard to uniformity, gives one
an idea of extreme insecurity ; as for government works or
wharves, excepting mere temporary scaffoldings, there are
none. The administration of justice in Melbourne is most strictly
and faithfully performed as impartially as in the old country, and
public works are not neglected, the streets and dwellings being
lighted with gas, and a pure crystal water introduced by an
extensive aqueduct.
In San Francisco justice is administered by gamblers and
bribed villains, the streets are ungraded and unlit, while every
drop of water that is drank is brought from over the bay, ten
miles distant. In Melbourne the streets are guarded by a well
U*

322 WHITE VS. BLACK.
organized police, and the highways scoured by a mounted arm
of the same service.
In California, the police are notoriously the most corrupt and
dangerous of her citizens, elected from the shoulder-striking
fraternity, as a reward in controlling elections for unworthy
aspirants, whom they aided by their bullying and rascally
designs. In Melbourne, the high officers of state are appointed by the
home-government ; men of rank and position at home, they
bring out with them their families, maintaining their accustomed
style of living, and thus giving a tone to society.
In passing along the streets, one encounters crowds of
women, the majority evidently in quest of menial positions, and
elegant equipages rolling by filled with well-dressed women and
children. How different from San Francisco ; then there were scarcely
any females, and one passing along the street, was she ever
so plain or vulgar, caused an immense sensation, while as for
ladies, the only females who cpnld figure in a coach were the
public women of the town.
Mid-day in California is midnight in Melbourne; in the one
place the magnetic needle points to the north, at the other
to the south ; here the barometer faUs before the approach
of a storm, there the rising mercury denotes one.
In California the flowers breathe the most delicious per
fumes, in Australia they are bright and beautiful, but have no
odor; the birds are of the most exquisite plumage, but give
forth no soft notes in song, while the woods of California are
perfect sylvan choirs.
Having seen all I cared to see of Australia, I determined

BOOMERANG. 323
upon leaving it, and falling in with a China acquaintance, he
proposed I should take an interest in and charge of a topsail
schooner which he had just bought, and make a voyage in her
to Tahiti. Always open to an offer, and ready like friend
Micawber for whatever turned up, I proceeded with him to the
bay to inspect the craft.
She was a queer specimen of naval architecture, of no very
beautiful proportions, Sidney built, of a wood with an un
pronounceable name, and from her appearance I judged that
she had been unacquainted with broom or scrubbing brush
since the day she was launched. Her sails were in a most de
plorable condition, and presented the appearance of a whale
man's breeches after a five years' cruise, and I very much doubt
if they had any of the original cloth in them.
However, I was in no wise particular, so at once made
terms with the owner, and proceeded to get ready for sea. At
that time wages were most exorbitantly high, and as money
was not plenty with either owner or " skipper," I overhauled
my sea rig and went to work myself, and by dint of hard
labor, got the "Boomerang" into a livable condition, and
having got aboard sundry barrels of Sidney bread aid beef,
and, last but not least, having shipped my crew, I announced
my frigate ready for sea.
The " materiel " of the erew is worth describing. My mate,
a drunken, quarrelsome brute, from the Solway ; the cook, a
cross between a Lascar and a Coolie, looking like neither, but
partaking of the bad qualities of both ; and my four foremast
hauds, one a Manilaman, with a huge sabre-cut across his
nose and cheek, a reward of piracy probably, most richly de
served ; an old English man-of-war's man, who knew more than

324 A SLIGHT DISAGREEMENT.
anybody else, yet knew nothing ; a Swede, the only reliable
man aboard the vessel, and a Mahoneese, the most villainous
looking wretch that I ever set my eyes on, with a squint that
was horrible to behold.
When the shipping-master brought these gentry aboard, I
asked him whether he thought I was going to sea with such a
set of cut-throats ? Well, said he, there isn't another man on
the beach that would go in the schooner, so you will either
have to take these or none. I accepted the alternative, and
forthwith ordered the mate to get her under way, with many
misgivings however.
Going off with a fine breeze, I began to think the vessel " a
singed cat," and was glad to find that she sailed tolerably well
on the wind, considering her model, and being particularly
anxious to test her capability for carrying sail, although it was
blowing a stiff breeze, I ordered the mate to loose her fore-top
gallant-sail. I had previously noticed that the brute did not re
ceive my orders with any alacrity, and I made up my mind
that either Mr. Mate or myself must conquer, and that at
once, for to yield an inch to him would have invited my four
other beauties to mutiny. Singing out to him from aft, to
loose the sail, he pretended not to hear me, but proceeded with
his work, in stowing the anchors, the men looking toward me
to see the result. Jumping down into the cabin, and putting
my revolver into my pocket, and seizing an iron bar, which lay
on the transom, I went again on deck, and taking a turn or
two, I again sung out, Mr.  , send some one up to loose
that fore-top-gallant-sail. No answer ! Springing forward
and confronting him, I repeated my order. Looking me full
in the face, with a leer hs said, " she's as much sail on her noo

PLEASANT WEATHER. 325
as she needs, hasn't she, b'ys ? The words were no sooner out
of his mouth, than the iron bar came in contact with his skull,
and down he fell, bleeding like a bullock ; then drawing my pis
tol, I threatened the first man who winked disobediently, to
blow his brains out. In five minutes the sail was loosed and
set, and for days, everything went on as orderly and quietly,
as aboard a man-of-war.
The mate did not get around again for some time, but was
always respectful, and apparently subdued, giving me a wide
berth, for I gave him to understand, that a mutinous look
would be the death of him.
Our voyage progressed but slowly ; the weather was very
bad, with heavy gales accompanied by large seas, which at
times making a clean breach over us, rendered it unsafe to go
on deck without being lashed to the rigging. No one can
imagine the state of our little cubby-hole of a cabin, overrun
with vermin, cockroaches, bugs, rats and centipedes ; the water
leaking through the half-caulked deck kept everything dripping
wet ; indeed, my bedding was half the time floating in the
bnnk. I had no one to share its delights : the mate's company
I had dispensed with since the first day out, and, consequently,
I was alone in my glory.
I often wished myself forward in the forecastle among the
men, for their quarters were infinitely better than mine. Hav
ing no mate that I could trust to, I rarely left the deck, more
particularly as there were no attractions below, but wrapping
myself in an india-rubber poncho and stowing myself in a quar
ter boat, would snooze away, ready at a moment's notice in case
of change of wind or anything else that might occur.

326 A FRESH-WATER 8TILL.
Not being overburdened with cash on leaving Australia, my
instruments were not on an extensive scale, being confined to a
sextant, an incorrect compass, and a general chart ; with such
imperfect appliances for ascertaining my position, and none to
assist me with whom I could compare, all this tended to in
crease my uneasiness, and together with the unpleasant suspi
cion that the mate and the man-of-war's-man were hatching a
mutiny, my situation was not an enviable one.
Onward we rolled, accompanied by continual gales; our pro
visions, bad in the first instance, damaged by salt water,
became unfit to eat, and the water casks on deck being stove,
we were on an allowance of a pint a day, which, saturated as
we were with brine, almost crazed us.
At this juncture I had recourse to a distilling apparatus,
which alleviated somewhat our suffering. Having a large
copper boiler on board, we iron strapped its top, and boring
a hole in it, soldered on a long spout : over this spout we sus
pended a large tin funnel, and filling the boiler with salt water
got up steam. The vapor pouring through its spout filled the
funnel, which being continually cooled by sea water, condensed
the steam which ran off into a receiver below : this appliance
gave us a little additional allowance, and partially alleviated
our burning thirst.
We longed for the green shores and luscious fruits of the
Polynesian Isles, and one bright morning we sighted the lofty
mountains of Tahiti, whose peaks soared away ten thousand
feet in air, while the lowlands at their base jutted into the dark
blue sea, fringed with snow-white foam.
Drawing in with the land, a rushing breeze straining our rot-

ARRIVE AT LAST. 327
ten canvas and making everything crack again, bore us bravely
on towards the coral entrance, when, gliding in and clewing
up our sails, we let go an anchor in the beautiful basin of
Papetee.

CHAPTER XIV.

POLYNESIA.

Arrival at Otaheite — Lovely Harbor — Its general Scenery — Strange to
find it in possession of red-legged Frenchmen — Beauty of the
Island — Its magnificent Verdure — Picturesque Dwellings of the Natives
— Ship a new Crew — Cruise among the Islands — Fill up with Cargo,
and sail again for Australia — The "Voyage — Sydney — Its Harbor — Its
Elegant Buildings, public and private — Dashing Appearance of Popu
lation — Leave for Melbourne.
The Otaheite whose tropic loveliness and whose beauteous
maidens seduced the seamen of the "Bounty" from their
loyalty a century ago is now a very, very different place from
what it then was. The same musical surf beats in mournful
measures upon its coral barriers ; the same old breadfruit and
banana trees wave their massive foliage, and the same blue
mountains overhang the same bright shining valleys as in days
of yore, but still, alas ! how great the change. Those gentle
islanders once so innocent, so pure, so happy — lords of their
isles, dreamed life away in graceful independence, now, alas,
tainted with disease, inoculated with hypocrisy from their
infancy, the fruit of Jesuitical interference, they dare not
even call the soil their own, but must bow in reverence to the
hated tricolor. Usurping the lovely grass-house, rises the
cabaret, issuing from beneath whose roof, low, ribald songs
828

1J A.PEETEE. 329
in French patois mar the divine presence of nature, holding
here her favorite court.
Its principal port, Papeetee, is one of the loveliest spots in
Polynesia, with its coral ramparts, crested with foaming billows
on the one hand, and on the other long rows of modest cots
embowered in groves of palm and breadfruit, while, dividing its
entrance, lies a gem of an island grown up with the most luxu
riant foliage, masking a heavy battery erected by the French.
This exquisite spot is walled in on the one side by the purple
mountains of Emao, and on the other by the sparkling ocean.
Since the French have taken possession, however, by their
merciless rule they have driven the better class of natives from
their settlements, while the poorer classes, tainted by their
licentiousness, hover about the skirts of the white man, abject
and loathsome.
Since the discovery of gold in California and in Australia,
scores of vessels, freighted with the vilest beings, have
touched here for provisions ; this, while it has given great
impulse commercially to the town, has had a most fatal moral
influence upon it.
These wretches, many of them criminals of the deepest dye,
escaped from the prisons of Norfolk Island and Botany Bay,
have disseminated seeds of vice and disease which will cost
the good missionaries ages to eradicate.
Licentiousness runs riot in spite of taboo and ecclesiastical
anathema ; indeed it seems inherent in Polynesian blood. In
walking along its streets one might well imagine himself in
some little Mediterranean port, in the south of France, with its
cabarets, its billiard rooms and cafes, and above all, its red-
legged soldiers, with their small waists, expanded breeches,

330 ISLAND BEAUTIES.
and clanking sabres. Then, too, there are barber shops, and
tailor shops, and blacksmith shops, and an infinite variety of
groggeries of all kinds.
However, these " desecrations " are found only in close
propinquity to the landing-place. But in strolling along
the Broom road, shaded by noble trees hiding picturesque
little Polynesian villas, one's spirits become raised as he
leaves the heavy atmosphere of trade and drunken sailors,
and can quietly and undisturbedly admire nature in her most
favored kingdom. Successions of beautiful gardens, emitting
overpowering fragrance, bounded by groves of breadfruit, ban
ana and oranges, overhung by the lofty and graceful cocoa-nut.
Cross-paths zig-zagging off into the plantations, revealing
glimpses of little paradises too modest to expose themselves
to view. Processions of islanders, wending their way hither
and thither, rolling out in alia voce unceasing strings of their
vowelly language ; the girls, many of them very beautiful,
though not very virtuous, dressed in the picturesque, though
Frenchy garb recently adopted, tripping laughingly along,
coquettishly endeavoring to attract attention by affecting coy
ness. The young ladies dress in silks and satins, or in calico
and cotton, as it may suit the purse of their particular male
friend ; but whether it be silk or whether it be cotton, they are
the same joyous, light-hearted beings, and trip merrily along
without thought or care. At nine o'clock the bugles sound
forth the summons for the natives to retire to their home, and
then all is still again.
As soon as my vessel's anchor was down, my precious crew,
who had only shipped by the run, immediately jumped into
canoes and paddled off ashore, leaving the schooner to her

A PLEASANT LIFE. 331
fate, and I must say I never experienced a more delightful sen
sation than when they were once fairly over the side. As they
passed under her stern the mate saluted me with a parting
curse, while the Malay waved his kris menacingly at me ; but
these being the usual performances of discharged seamen, an
idiosyncrasy of character, a sort of letting off steam, which
from expediency had been held in during the voyage, I
thought nothing of it — merely informing my friend the mate,
that if he ever came within sight of me ashore I should take
the liberty of blowing his brains out. I had no trouble with
them, however, as they all immediately got gloriously drunk,
were put in the stocks, and ultimately all shipped on board an
English whaleman — I wish the skipper joy of them. In their
stead I succeeded in shipping three fine fellows, Americans,
and two Kanakas, and never were better men on board ship —
good tempered, sober, and attentive to their duty, all went on
harmoniously and pleasantly.
Having made all the necessary arrangements, we again got
under way, and in turn visited the Marquesas and Austral
groups, picking up among them an assorted cargo of pearl
shell, sandal wood, cocoa-nut oil, lime juice, live stock and fruit.
It was a pleasant life this cruising around, among these pri
mitive groups, hospitably entertained among the hidden domes
tic paradises of these children of nature, feasting on delicious
fruits, bathing in the silvery surf, and for hours gazing down
into the depths of the clear blue sea, from whose pebbly bot
tom arose in a thousand beautiful and fantastic form3, the
many-colored coral, presenting the effect of lovely gardens,
amid whose smiling grottoes thousands of bright-hued fish grace
fully glided.

332

FEMALE L0YE LINES

The kindness and unaffected generosity of these people were
really wonderful, taking into consideration the wretched set of
beings who have for the last half century been wandering
about their islands taking advantage of them in every possible
manner, robbing them and betraying their confidence. Not
withstanding all this, no stranger ever enters the picturesque,
though simple hut of the native, but he is at once welcomed
with the hospitable " Alofa " and importuned to partake of
bed and board until he chooses to depart.
Many a time have I, wearied with my rambles, entered the
domain of a person on whom I had never before set my eyes,
and throwing myself on a mat, and unceremoniously beckoning a
girl to bring me a young cocoanut to drink, and resting my
head upon her shoulder, have in a moment fallen asleep, as
peacefully as if I were not partaking of the hospitalities of a
mau whose father, perhaps himself, had feasted on the remains
of many a poor shipwrecked mariner. The girls are the most
fearless children of nature, with the greatest flow of the kind
liest humor that I have ever met with in any country, with their
fanciful robes flowing loosely about them, and their glossy black
hair gracefully floating in the wind, among whose locks were
entwined sprigs of dew spangled jessamine, and their soft
¦dark eyes dilating with excitement ; they would accompany us
in our walks, and hand in hand would bound on before us like
young fawns gambolling about among the trees, and if they saw
that we noticed a particular fruit or flower, starting off at full
speed to pluck it.
While in bathing they would sport about us like Nereids, much
to the consternation of those of us who were not proficients in
the art of swimming, for they had no mercy on any awkwardness.

GET UNDER WEIGH. 333
Taking a last look at the beautiful Island of Tahiti, and
having concluded all my business arrangements ashore, I
shipped into my boat and in a minute was alongside the
" Boomerang." The schooner's appearance was very much changed for the
better, since our arrival — my new Yankee mate having labored
to great advantage with paint brush, scrubbing brush and
sail needle.
She was pretty heavily laden, to be sure, and the deck load
of fruit and swine was no particular improvement on the origi
nal, but notwithstanding it was pleasant to see a good-natured,
honest set of men around one, in place of the cut-throats that I
just got rid of.
Up comes the anchor with a " Cheerily, men 0 I" from her
bed among the mermaids. " Hove short, sir 1" sings out the
mate. " Heave away lively then. Run up the jib ! Lee fore
top sail brace I b-lay ! to'-galln' and royal braces well ! — Lay
aft here — one of you take the wheel ; and you Mr. Pilot take
charge." Here we are again on the blue water, cresting and foaming
under the influence of the strong trade wind.
Discharging our pilot, we once more say adieu to old Tahiti,
and then turn our thoughts upon our voyage.
Days and weeks roll by ; a heavy gale relieves us of our
deck load, and the poor grunters feed the sharks instead of
hungry Australians.
The old schooner leaks like a sieve ; pump, pump, pump,
still all goes on pleasantly ; the rats and vermin were all smoked
out in Papeetee, so that the cabins are livable, and the
mate (an extremely intelligent man, an alumnus of Yale Col-

334 SYDNEY.
lege) and myself revived many a pleasant reminiscence over a
glass of grog and a cheroot. We had a wearisome voyage so
far as time went, but I must say that, in spite of all anxiety, I
was rather sorry when we made the land off Sydney.
However, the idea of a run on shore after a long voyage, is
always pleasant, and above all, a change of living, for although
we had fared sumptuously on roast bread-fruit, fried bananas
and fresh pork, still we eagerly looked forward to a well-cooked
dinner in one of the crack restaurants in Sydney.
However conversant a person may be with the rapid strides
the English have made in civilizing and colonizing their posses
sions in Australia, he must gaze with undisguised wonderment
upon the elegant and substantial appearance of the beautiful
city of Sydney. Even though he may come direct from that
miracle of a city, San Francisco, which sprung up from a
wilderness almost in a single night, still he feels that he has left
behind him a mere settlers' village, compared to this mag
nificent city.
Entering between rocky headlands, the bay stretches away
for half a dozen miles before' you, circled by lofty, wooded
hills, indented with verdant coves ; the heights, highly culti
vated, are adorned with picturesque country seats, and a still
loftier eminence is crowned by a fine lighthouse, and drawing
further in, the government-house, of castellated build, comes
into view. On the port-hand, lies the old town, running up a
steep slope, the houses apparently built one upon the top of the
other, in every variety of style, present a very pretty feature.
Around about you are hundreds of craft, some lying at anchor,
with sails furled, taking in and discharging cargo, others cut
ting across your bows and under your stern, while occasionally

ITS ELEGANT APPEARANCE. 335
a little steamer, puffing volumes of black smoke, will shoot past
you. Approaching the town more closely, long lines of ware
houses are disclosed, and the wharves, with piles of merchan
dise and with busy throngs moving about them, attract your
attention. Once on shore and refreshed with a bath and with a well-
cooked and well-served meal at one of the sumptuous hotels,
you set out for a walk, and striking into George street^ the
Broadway of Sydney, a splendid avenue longer and wider than
its celebrated prototype, your eyes are distended in utter
amazement at the elegant shops, with their magnificent dis
plays of the fabrics and wares of every land under the sun ;
the sidewalks, filled with beautiful and well-dressed women
and with exquisites, got up in the last mode-de-Paris, with
cane and quizzing-glass, who look little of the Australian emi
grant ; elegant equipages dash by with coachmen and foot
men gaudily liveried, and tandems of superior appointments,
driven by men " bang up " in appearance, dexterously thread
their way among the crowds of vehicles passing and repassing
in quick succession. The style of building is certainly very
superior, and the material, a light freestone, gives the houses a
bright and cheerful look. You enter an elegant cafe, and call
ing for an ice, you sit down, and resting, ask yourself am I
really in Australia ? ' Before you are the banks and insurance
offices, and crowds of business men are hurrying to and fro with
as much earnestness as in Wall street. Block after block of
private residences stretch away in all directions, and the fresh
beautiful children, walking and playing before them, send a
gush of home recollections through one's mind. Fifth Avenue,

336 BEAUTIFUL SUBURBS.
however beautiful, must be very elegant to surpass some of the
Sydney streets ; there is nothing half so bright, half so elegant
in London.
The suburbs stretch away for miles, with miles of suburban
villas, and Pyrmorne and Balmain, with their picturesque cotta
ges and terraced heights, produced a strong impression and
envious feelings in the mind of one who for five years had been
thrown by fate among the riff-raff of creation.
In spite of Sydney having formerly been a criminal station,
and in spite of the element infused into its society by pardoned
convicts becoming wealthy and powerful, and having a strong
influence in the affairs of the colony — notwithstanding all
this, there is at present an exceedingly good society in the pro
vince. The vast trade carried on between it and the mother
country, the attractions produced by the gold mania, and the
field offered for aspirants to political preferment, not to mention
the immense number of government officers — civil, naval and
military— who are appointed for an indefinite period and who
come out with their families and settle down permanently in
their new home — all this has tended to bring into the colony
a large element of refinement and respectability. Most of these
people, moving in the higher walks of life at home, at once
fraternize here and give an elevated tone to society, which is
of a necessity extremely exclusive. The governorship of the
colony of Australia is a highly prized gift of the home government,
and is eagerly sought after by those high in rank, who together
with families and suite form quite a brilliant court. During the
season, Sydney is exceedingly gay, the entertainments being on
u magnificent scale, balls, concerts and the like following

SOCIETY OF ''BOTANY BAY.'' 337
each other in rapid succession; and as far as appearances go, it
would be a difficult matter to say whether one was at Almacks
or at the government house in Australia.
My stay was short in Sydney; having settled up my business
and bidding good bye to the old "Boomerang," I got on board a
steamer bound for Melbourne, and in three days was again
ploughing the waters of Hobson's Bay.

15

CHAPTER XV.

VOYAGE IN SOUTH PACIFIC.

Take Passage in a Brig — Find I am sold — Captain and all Hands get
Drunk — Captain and all Hands stay Drunk — Work Ship myself —
Furious Gales — Ship dismasted — Nothing to eat — General Filthiness —
Touch at Pitcairn's Island — Get jammed in between the Trades and
Equatorial Calms — Reach the Coast— Ninety day Passage — Wind up
with a grand Shindy.
Having determined to go over to the coast of South America, I
looked around me for a chance, and happening upon a notice of
the sailing of an English brig, " The Balmoral," for Callao, in
Peru, I at once took passage in her, without even going down
to the port to take a look at her, not caring a great deal what
kind of a ship she was, as long as she would carry me over in
safety. Indeed, the experience of the previous year had not
made me very exacting in point of accommodation.
Settling up all my affairs at Melbourne, and taking a steamer
down to the port, I hired a small boat, and after considerable
trouble, succeeded in finding my brig. Pulling alongside, I in
vain hailed the deck for some one to heave a rope or to help
me with my luggage; so mounting the ladder, I scrambled
up the side, and jumping on deck, took a survey as to how the
land lay. In vain I looked about me for officers or crew; not
a man was to be seen; so overhauling the yard-arm tackle, I
hoisted in my own plunder, and paying the boatman, walked
833

''A SWEET CRAFT.'' 339
aft into the cabin. During my wanderings about the world, I
had fallen in with a good many forlorn craft ; but I had
never met a more perfect type of what a sailor calls a ballyhoo,
than was this one. In model she looked like a Dutch galiot ;
her rigging untarred, and hanging in a bight, swayed to and
fro in the wind; her decks, rough and greasy, appeared never
to have been washed down, and the cabin was in a state of
dire confusion, the rats making a violent stampede as I en
tered. Finding no one around, I at once took possession, and ar
ranging my boxes to my satisfaction, made a tour of inspection.
The cabin was absolutely bare of furniture, but there were two
state-rooms, and in one of them I discovered some bedding, an
old quadrant, and two or three books on navigation. This
looked like occupation, so I came to the conclusion that the old
thing was inhabited, although temporarily deserted. Peering
into the pantries, I found some hard-tack, a piece of cheese,
and pipes and tobacco; with these I at once proceeded to make
merry, and having supped to my satisfaction, I stretched my
self out for a nap, and soon was snoozing away as comfortably
as possible.
Somewhere about nine o'clock in the evening, I was awakened
by a terrible racket, when, lighting a lantern, and looking over
the side, I found a boat with some half dozen men in her, all
drunk, alongside, and each man swearing to the extent of his
ability. Inquiring who the amiable party might be, I was in
formed by the drunkest man of the party that lie was- skipper
of that brig, and wanted to know who the devil i" was. After
great difficulty, all these worthies got aboard, when no sooner
had they touched the deck, than they commenced an indiscrim-

340 PLEASANT PROSPECT.
iuate fight. Stepping into the rigging, by way of security, and
hanging my lantern so as to let its rays fall upon the bellige
rents, I let them fight it out, looking very complacently down
from my eyrie, and occasionally lending them a word of en
couragement. By degrees, overcome with their exertions, they
fell down, one by one, on deck, and in half an hour the whole
party were asleep, with the exception of the captain, who
stumbled aft into the cabin, where I at once followed him.
Presenting myself as a passenger, he appeared to feel very
much mortified at the state I had caught him in, but begged
that I would not mind him, and would proceed to make myself
as comfortable as circumstances would allow, and, furthermore,
adding that the agent had no right to take passengers in such
a vessel, as she was in every way unfit.
Seven days did we linger in the harbor before we finally got
off, during which time the crew were never sober, and the
skipper generally about three sheets in the wind. Cook there
was none, nor steward either, the government boat having
claimed both of those gentlemen as escaped convicts. The con
sequence was, that- whoever wanted anything to eat was at
liberty to go and cook it himself.
Just before we got under weigh, the mate, a great, red
headed, overgrown Scotchman, came aboard with his wife,
rather a pretty west of England lassie, with a brogue so broad
it was next to impossible to understand what she said at all ;
but like all Englishwomen of that class, she was fond of her
cups, and so my lord and lady were both boosy. This was a
glorious prospect for me : a drunken crew, a drunken captain,
and a drunken fellow-passenger, and she a woman !
No sooner were we well clear of our anchorage, than I found

A RELIABLE CREW. 341
that I was in for it, and that although I had paid an euormous
passage, still that I should have as much hard work and
more anxiety than if I had shipped regularly as a foremast
hand. By a rule of the port, as also of San Francisco, owing to
the dearth of sailors, enormous wages were paid, as high some
times as $100 per month, and sometimes so much was given by
the run or for the whole voyage — for instance, $300 to China,
$400 to the coast, and so on ; and the sailors, in order to guard
against fraud on the part of shipowners, insisted on having
the money paid in advance, on the capstan head, as they termed
it, before clearing the harbor ; consequently, just as we had
got well outside the heads, the men came aft in a body, and
demanded their wages ; being too much overcome to attend to
business, the master took a huge bag of gold from between the
mattresses of his bed, and handing it to me without counting,
he begged me to pay off the men ; willing to oblige, I did as
he desired, paying each of the boys from $200 to $300 apiece.
No sooner were the men paid off than they broke out into
open mutiny; they would execute no order unless they felt so
disposed ; and, in fact, would be governed by no one but my
self, and it was not always, by any means, that they would
be influenced by me ; these beauties, however, insisted that I
had been imposed upon in coming aboard this old craft as a
passenger, and conceived that I had a common cause for dis
content with them, and consequently, I suppose, felt that I was
entitled to some consideration ; it was well for us all that this
feeling did exist, for I verily believe that otherwise the ship
would never have reached her destination, for many a time when
threats and entreaties would avail nothing, have I prevailed

342 CAT-o'-NlNE- TAILS WANTED.
upon those lawless scoundrels to execute an order which, unful
filled, would have caused the dismasting of the vessel.
The brig was an exceedingly dull sailor, and being light,
with no cargo, and but little ballast in her, it was not prudent
to carry much sail on her ; indeed, had the ship been ever so
staunch, we would not have dared to lug sail on her, for it was
always extremely problematical, whether or not after we
had prevailed upon the men to set a sail, they could be
induced to take it in again. After the first ten days out,
it seemed as if all parties, forward and aft, had determined to
have a good time, each in his own peculiar way, and not to ex-
exert himself more than was absolutely necessary ; with this
understanding, the lofty sails were permanently furled, and
reefs taken in the topsails, so that with the exception of re
lieving the wheel, there was absolutely nothing to be done, for
both washing down decks and mending sails were voted super-
flous, and night-watches a bore; the state of things on board may
be better imagined than described — no head — no discipline — all
drunk from morning till night, blow high or blow low, the only
symptom of life about the ship was evinced by the man at the
wheel, who generally tried to keep awake during his trick at
the helm ; the mate and his precious wife devoted themselves
to the rum cask, so that I did not have the pleasure of their
society very often ; as I said before, our cook and steward were
both seized upon by the police before leaving port, so that we
remained minus those important personages. Not caring to
perform the duties of scullion myself, I chose from among the
crew an Italian, the least filthy of the gang, and installed him
forthwith into his doctorate ; his duties were not multifarious,
for the ship's stores consisted of sundry barrels of beef and

I WORK MY PASSAGE. 343
pork, a couple of flour, a bag or so of coffee, and a few boxes
of red-herring, so there was no very great field for display
ing his culinary talents, even had he possessed them; in
deed I do not think he was a disciple of Soyer, for he^was evi
dently ashamed of his new profession. Our table was varied
with beef and pork for breakfast, and pork and beef for din
ner, with a cup of thick coffee or a glass of rum to wash it
down ; this was our only fare for three long months, with the
exception of some vegetables, purchased subsequently at Pit-
cairn's Island.
The weather, on first leaving port, was tolerable good, but
after we had been outside for ten or fifteen days, we had a
succession of remarkably heavy gales, which, with our mutinous
crew and drunken officers, made it a very serious affair for the
ship. My plan was to sleep as much in the day time as possible,
and in the evening to light my pipe, when the weather was at
all bad, and to remain on deck the greater part of the night.
With the hearty approbation of the skipper, I had taken whole
charge of the craft, and made or took in sail at discretion, that
is, when I could prevail upon the boys to execute my orders.
I recollect, on one occasion we had got jammed in on the coast
of New Zealand, and had had for days a succession of terrific
gales. Close reefing the topsails and furling the courses, I hove
her too, and the people, disgusted with the long continuance of
the gale, lashing the wheel, had gone below to await a change
of wind ; for a couple of days and nights I scarcely ever left the
deck ; but the third night, soaked with rain and sea water, and
thoroughly fagged out, I roused out the captain, who did not
happen to be dead drunk, and persuaded him to stand watch
the rest of the night ; throwing myself down on the transom in

344 DISMASTED.
the cabin, I was soon in dream-land, never waking up until the
cook brought me my coffee in the morning. Going out on deck-
I found the gale to be little less than a hurricane, the sea wild
and irregular, while to the windward a thick haze and cloud-
bank, rapidly rising, looked very ominous. At once directing
the attention of the captain to it, I advised him to furl the
main topsail altogether, and to run her off before the wind;
but the drunken rascal said, " Let's have our coffee first, mon,
whar's the use of being in side a hurry ?" Worn out with pre
vious anxiety and watching, and disgusted with things gene
rally, and the captain particularly, I lit my pipe and sat down
composedly to see what the result would be ; as for myself, I
can truly say that I did not care one sou what happened to her,
I had arrived at that state of mind which makes one perfectly
indifferent to all casualties, whatever their nature. I had not
been many minutes seated, when, as I had surmised, the squall
struck her with terrific violence; then came a tremendous crash,
and down came fore and main royal masts, the foretop-gallant
mast and foretop mast and the jib-boom, alongside. This was
a nice mess 1 especially as at the same time a couple of seas
boarded her, sweeping her deck fore and aft. Getting her off
before the wind, we managed to muster all hands, and went to
work with a will to clear the wreck, which pleasant job we
got through with about midnight.
For weeks this weather lasted, and we went wallowing along
through heavy seas, and battling tremendous gales. Onr
nautical instruments consisted of an old-fashioned English
sextant about fifty years old, and a quadrant, also very aged,
and no chronometer. The consequence was, that we had to rely
altogether upon lunar distances for longitude, and this was mv

GALES .  G ALES .  G ALES. 345
chief amusement ; day and night I was at it, and no star ever
was in distance, but what I had a shy at it.
What a tedious, wretched voyage this was, to be sure !
Heavy gales day after day, week after week. No companions,
and a terrible feeling of anxiety and responsibility. For weeks
I never left the deck ; at night usually sleeping with my heavy
coat wrapped around me under the lee of the trunk-cabin on
deck. The old brig, not a very beautiful specimen of naval archi
tecture in the first place, after being dismasted was about as
ungainly a looking object as one might often meet with ; but it
did not appear to make any great difference in her sailing quali
ties. She went rolling and pitching about all the same, never
making over four knots the hour. As the voyage wore on, the
men became more uncontrollable and would positively do no
thing unless it was deemed by them absolutely necessary. Here
we were in the stormiest part of the South Pacific, in a dis
masted brig, with a drunken captain, a drunken mate, and a
drunken and mutinous crew. The ship being under as short sail
as was practicable, there was no call for actual exertion on the
part of the men with the exception of their trick at the wheel,
and even while steering it was necessary to watch them sharp,
lest they should get the ship aback. During this part of the voy
age we had some terrific weather. So much so that at one time
I was fearful that ttie little brig would be overwhelmed with the
enormous seas which constantly combed and broke around us.
One night, worn down with fatigue and suffering from the
effects of constant wetting with salt water, I resolved to turn in,
let the ship sink or swim, as the case might be. I had hardly
lain down when a tremendous sea came aboard of us, sweeping
15*

346 "oh! whar's mi woman!"
everything movable from the decks and carrying off with it a
couple of our precious crew, and filling our cabin four feet deep
with water ; waking from my sleep, I heard the rushing sea
and felt the shock, and thought sure enough our time had come;
but notwithstanding the serious aspect of affairs, I burst out
into a hearty laugh (the first I had uttered since leaving Mel
bourne) at the sight which presented itself before me. The
gale was from the southwest and blowing a hurricane, and a
full moon threw her rays into the cabin, giving everything a
ghastly hue; wallowing on the floor, up to her neck in water and
screeching at the top of her voice, was the wife of the mate.
She thought she was gone, and was struggling and praying
away at a terrific rate, while her drunken rib, fairly sobered by
the sea which floated him out of his bunk, was " sans culottes,"
seeking his beloved amid the broken furniture, which smashed
about as the ship rolled and pitched, and swept them from one
side to the other, with great force. Thus the voyage wore on,
a constant gale blowing, the vessel wet and uncomfortable, and
the provisions, spoiled and bad as they were, gradually becoming
more and more scant. Drifting about the ocean and finding
ourselves not very far from Pitcairn's Island we resolved to bear
up for it and recruit. pitcairn's ISLANn.
In one of the most remote corners of the Pacific ocean, far,
far out of any beaten track which vessels are wont to take in
crossing from Asia to America, and hundreds of miles away from
any other land, in latitude twenty-five degrees south, and one
hundred and thirty degrees west longitude, lies a rocky islet,
scarce seven miles in circumference, against whose precipitous

island. 347
sides a furious surf constantly beats, which threatens death and
destruction to the daring mariner who ventures within its
boiling caldron. Yet this spot, this speck upon an unknown
ocean, so inhospitable, so inaccessible, is invested with a deep
and thrilling interest, and the greatest English poet has thrown
over it a mantle of romance; for, in his poem of the " Island,"
Lord Byron has given to the world the tragic settlement of
" Pitcairn's Island."
I give the story, though few there are who are not familiar
with that most interesting romance of naval history, " The
Mutiny of the Bounty." For the facts I am indebted to my
friend, Capt. Dillon, of H. M. S. " Cocatrice."
In the year 1189, His Majesty's ship "Bounty," Captain
Bligh, while in the vicinity of the island of Otaheite, one of the
Polynesian group, was taken possession of by a part of her
crew, who had mutinied, headed by one Fletcher Christian, and
her commander, with all those not favorable to the insurrection,
were cast adrift in an open boat. The mutineers, twenty-five
in number, were supposed to have made sail towards Tahiti,
and as soon as the occurrence became known to the English
admiralty, an expedition was sent out to capture them there,-
but on its arrival, it was found that nine of the most criminal
of the mutineers had some time previously set sail, taking with
them each his Tahitian wife, intending to seek some uninha
bited island, where, having established themselves, to break up
the ship, so that no trace of them should be left. Here all clue
of them was lost, and it was not until twenty-five years after
that anything further was heard of them, and it was in this
wise : In the year 1813, two captains of the Britith navy,
cruising in their respective ships in the vicinity of Pitcairn's

348 PRAYER OF AN ISLANDER.
Island, and in utter ignorance of its occupancy, were not a lit
tle astonished on nearing it, to find it regularly laid out in
plantations and built up with neatly constructed cabins ; on
bearing down for the island and closely approaching it, several
natives were observed with a canoe on their shoulders making
for the beach, and presently launching it through a very heavy
surf ; but their astonishment can be more easily imagined than
described, when, on nearing the ship, one of the natives called
out in plain English, " Won't you heave us a rope ?" The first
man on board was Thursday October Christian, a son of the
leader of the mutiny ; his only dress a piece of cloth around
his loins and a straw hat ornamented with cock feathers. His
companion was named George Young, an interesting youth of
sixteen years. Being extremely interested in these young men,
the commander invited them into his cabin, and causing food
to be set before them begged them to partake, when, to his
utter amazement, they both rose to their feet, and assuming a
devotional posture, one of them in a low distinct voice repeated,
" For what we are going to receive, may the Lord make us
truly thankful." After hearing their story, the officers accom
panied them ashore, accomplishing with*great difficulty a land
ing through th*e surf, when they were met by Adams, the only
surviving mutineer, who conducted them to his residence, and
on being informed that their visit was wholly unintentional and
had no reference to the mutiny, testified the greatest joy on
once more beholding his countrymen. The colony had in
creased to about forty-six persons, mostly grown up people,
forming a most interesting community ; their chief, John Ad
ams, who, although a mutineer, was possessed of a frank and
noble heart, and the solitude and tranquillity that had ensued

A HAPPY LAND. 349
since the many and dreadful scenes through which he had
passed, had disposed his mind to repentance. Feeling his
wickedness and the weight of his sins to hang heavily upon
him, he had determined on a thorough change of life, and
faithfully had he carried out his resolution ; he instructed the
young community growing up around him, to the best of his
ability ; he inculcated in them the strictest principles of moral
rectitude, and unfolded to them, as they became able to com
prehend it, the plan of salvation. The children acquired such
a thirst for scriptural knowledge that he had at first little else
to do than answer their interrogatories and put them in the
right way ; as they grew up, they acquired fixed habits, of mo
rality and piety, and they soon formed a happy and well-regu
lated society, the merit of which belongs to Adams, and tends
to redeem the errors of his former life. He died honored and
respected, in the year 1829, aged sixty-five years.
At the time of my visit to this " happy land," there was but
one of the original settlers left on the island, an aged Tahitian
woman, tottering on the verge of the grave, a widow of one of
the mutineers ; there were two men and seven women of the
first generation, and three of the latter, daughters of old Ad
ams ; the rest were the issue of the second and third genera
tions. We found them exceedingly industrious and of frugal
habits, the men and women both engaged in agricultural pur
suits, while some of the former were good mechanics ; their
mode of dress, assimilating somewhat to our own, is obtained
from vessels touching there occasionally, in exchange for fresh
provisions. The men are firmly built and stalwart in appearance, with
fine eyes and expressive countenances ; they all speak English

350 PIGS AND POULTRY.
fluently, indeed, it is their native tongue, but they give it the
full liquid sound, which is peculiar to the Polynesian idioms.
In character, they are extremely docile, and live in the utmost
harmony, requiring but little restraint, thanks to their early
training and the religious element which runs through them.
The women are rather sKght, but with forms of the most ex
quisite mould ; their countenances, beaming with vivacity and
intelligence, are lit up with the full Asian eye, which shows
great depth of fervid passion, tempered however with the most
chaste expression ; admirable women they are; virtuous and in
dustrious as wives, and fond and affectionate as mothers, they,
on their ocean-bound rock, remotest of the human family, set
an example which the world would do well to follow.
How true is it that the " Lord moves in a mysterious way his
wonders to perform 1" Here, on a barren rock unknown to all
the world beside, sought out by blood-dyed criminals to hide
their guilt, has he raised up au altar from which the purest in
cense arises, around which, with one accord, all assemble and
offer up hymns of the most heartfelt praise. Strange, that to
the offspring of the pirate, should be vouchsafed a peace of
mind and a purity of heart, such as is seldom if ever known in
this world of sin and sorrow.
Leaving Pitcairn's Island, we, with our usual ill-luck, got
jammed in among the southeast trade-winds, and made a very
long passage, but succeeded at last in reaching Peru. By way
of winding up a most disagreeable voyage, and in perfect keep
ing with it, the closing scene was quite tragic. Arriving in
the evening, the men immediately got into a boat and went
on shore, leaving their clothes behind them to return for
them in the morning. The next morning I was awakened

a row. 351
from my sleep by a most diabolical noise, when, half awake, I
rushed out on deck, and, before I knew it, was in the midst of
a bloody fight; half a dozen men were amusing themselves beat
ing the captain, who was defending himself with a capstan bar,
while the good-for-nothing, drunken mate was looking on, evi
dently enjoying the sport. Incensed at his cowardly apathy, I
called upon him to come to his master's assistance, but was
answered -only by a laugh ; when, losing all command of
myself, I, in a moment, became engaged with him. While
pummelling each other to the extent of our ability, one or two
of the men, not yet actively employed, and very hostile to the
mate, at once jumped upon him, thus leaving me free to go to
the captain's assistance. Half blinded with blood, and seizing
an axe, in two jumps I was alongside of him ; but there my
recollection ended, for a blow from behind with an iron belaying
pin laid me " hors de combat," and it was not till some hours
afterwards that I came to my senses, and found myself stretched
on the cabin floor, stiff with bruises and weak from loss of
blood. The captain was beyond recognition, while the mate
and his lovely wife had each a pair of beautiful black eyes and
swollen faces. The result of the affair was, that we were not
able to go ashore for several days.

CHAPTER XVI.

WEST COAST.

The Author goes Ashore — Finances at a Low Ebb — Seeks Employment —
Becomes a Night Watchman, at ten Dollars per Night and Grog — Gets
Command of a Ship — Is transferred to a Steamer — Pleasant Voyages
— The Surf— Is Chartered by Government; — Callao — Its improved
Condition — Frequent Revolutions — Presidential Candidates — The Ins
and the Outs — Coolie Trade defended.
Bioding adieu to the old craft, I moved my effects ashore, and,
in so doing, spent my last dollar. So here I was again, a
broken merchant ; but, as men were scarce, and wages enor
mously high, I wasn't uneasy — for, even if the worst came to
the worst, I could without difficulty get a berth. But I hoped
for better things ; for I was certain that with my ability to
speak the language, and my knowledge of the coast and
numerous acquaintances, I could always find lucrative em
ployment. Taking lodgings, I at once went to work beating up
acquaintances, and, as luck would have it, fell upon an old
friend with whom I had had business connection in California,
and to whom, on a previous voyage, I had consigned my ves
sel. My friend G  was in full tide of an active business,
and very kindly offered to do anything for me that lay in his
power; and, giving me access to his purse, thus I was relieved

BECOME A NIGHT WATCH. 353
from the unpleasant idea of being hard up, and fell for a second
time into the hands al good Samaritans.
Lounging about, I soon became tired of waiting for employ
ment, and begged my friend G  to give me something to
do, by way of keeping my hand in ; and, accordingly, he
informed me that in case I was so inclined, he had several
ships in harbor which required watchmen, and that it being a
difficult matter to get any one sufficiently trustworthy, he
would pay me ten dollars per night to act in that capacity.
Nothing loath, I at once acceded to his proposal, and forthwith
entered upon my new duties. Pulling off in my little gig,
about nine in the evening, to the ship designated, I would
report myself to the officer of the deck; bidding my boys to let
my boat drop astern, and to make themselves comfortable in
her for the night. I would then relieve the officer in charge,
who would go below and leave me to my solitary walk and
reflections ; and, as I paced up and down the lonely deck,
I would often smile to think what my friends at home would
say to my new avocation as night watch. Oftentimes, some
kind-hearted skipper would send his steward on deck to ask the
watchman if he wouldn't come down and have a glass of grog,
which invitation the watchman would always politely accept ;
and, on appearing in the cabin, would always, with becoming
humility, doff his tarpaulin, and drink to the health of the
benevolent skipper and of his friends assembled.
My pay as night watch gave me sufficient spending money,
and enabled me to enjoy myself moderately ; and thus between
trips to Lima, and various other excursions, a month flew away
pleasantly enough.
At this juncture, a large American ship being bought by a

354 STEAMER ''VILLA DE
native firm, some one was wanted to take charge of her, and,
through the good offices of my friend G  , I was the
lucky individual, and, at an early date, was duly installed. I
had not been many days aboard, however, when a friend men
tioned to me that a coast steamer, owned by the same concern,
would soon be wanting a captain, as the present incumbent was
entirely too slow, and, consequently, was going to be ousted
from his position. Now, if there was any one position that
I aspired to at that time, it was the command of a steamer on
that coast ; for, having traded on it as master and supercargo
uf sailing vessels, I was anxious to try steam versus sail.
My knowledge of the coast and the language here stood me
in good stead, and, notwithstanding numerous and powerful
opponents, I was duly installed as master of the Peruvian
steamer "Villa de Huacho." Previous to taking command,
however, I was informed that it would be necessary to undergo
an examination before the marine board to test my qualifica
tions. This frightful ordeal having been gone through with, I
was presented with a budget of documents, constituting me a
" Piloto de la Marina Peruana," etc., etc., etc. ; which docu
ments were all figured off with armorial seals and signatures,
and for which I paid the nice little sum of forty dollars. The
steamer, a small side-wheel boat of American build, was under
the Peruvian colors, and traded up and down the coast from
Paita as far down as Arica, touching in at every little nook
and corner on the route.
Leaving Callao, at night, we would get under weigh and
running down the coast, touch in at Cerro:azul and the Chincha
Islands, arriving at Pisco the following evening; or going north,
leaving Callao we would touch in at Huacho, Casma, Lambayeque,

11REAKERS AHEAD] J.'i&
Huanchaco, andPayta,and returning, call in at the same ports,
making the voyage in a week or ten days. Our cargoes were very
varied, consisting principally of the products of the country, and
our passengers, of small traders and the planters living along the
coast. It was a pleasant trade to be in, the weather always
serene, never warm or cold, while the only drawbacks to navi
gation, were the dense fogs prevailing in the winter time.
Running into a little harbor, we would come to an anchor, and
while awaiting for cargo we would scour away into the
interior, visiting many friends.
A great drawback to the coasting trade is the absence of
good harbors, there being only two or three worthy of the name
along the whole coast. At Pisco, a principal port, the surf rolls
in, for several hundred yards rendering the landing very unsafe ;
indeed, during the full and change of the moon, the surf breaks so
heavily that no boat can live in it. During the time that I was
trading there, I came near losing several passengers and had
my boats capsized on various occasions.
The ports of Lambayeque, and Huanchaco, the only outlets
of a rich and fertile country in which large quantities of rice,
sugar, and cotton are raised, in no respect deserve the name of
harbors, for on their beaches beats as terrific a surf as I ever
witnessed, breaking for nearly half a mile from the shore.
No boat can live in the breakers, and these places are
only accessible by means of balsas, huge rafts constructed of a
light, buoyant wood, and on top of the logs, some five or six
feet high, is raised a platform, on which the passengers and freight
are placed ; these rafts are propelled by sails, and are the only
means of transport through this boiling surf. It is a pretty tick
lish business the first time one attempts the voyage, for although

6bt> HUANCHACO.
the Indians perfectly understand their management, still it is
very frightful to get half way among these terrific breakers,
rolling, foaming around you with a deafening crash and appa
rently determined on overwhelming you. I must own up to
being badly scared on first going ashore at Lambayeque; indeed
it's a very, very dangerous amusement, for on two different occa
sions I knew of the rafts being broken up and passengers and
freight all being lost.
During the last few months that I remained on the coast,
I was under government charter and was principally engaged
in carrying troops and dispatches to different ports, and on one
occasion was ordered to Huanchaco with a load of gunpowder.
Having had a serious attack of fever, I was then slowly con
valescing, and being still weak from its effects, my duties de
volved upon my mate, an old whaler and a very competent
man ; previous to going to my room on the night before making
the harbor, I gave the mate the course and told him he need
not wake me until the custom house-boat came alongside.
The next morning, on awakening, I was surprised to find the
ship rolling heavily and going along under half head of steam.
Stepping out on deck, I found we were in the ground-swell and
running slowly down the edge of the breakers, and that we were
some six miles beyond our port. Singing out to the mate
(who by the by had never been there before), I begged to
know where he was going to ? He told me that he was looking
for the port ! that he had come to, at the place designated
on the chart as the port, but as there were no houses there
and a dangerous surf breaking out a mile or so from the beach,
that he was sure that that could not be the place, for no boat
could possibly communicate with the shore ! Informing him of

F O G 8 . 357
his mistake, I ordered the ship to be put about, and wo found
ourselves in a short time at anchor, rolling guards under in the
heavy ground swell.
As I looked shoreward I really could not blame my mate for
not coming to an anchor in the first instance. The only thing
indicating a settlement being a huge cross prominently placed
upon a bluff as a land-mark, and a few fishermen's shanties
scattered along the beach, while between the beach and the
anchorage line upon line of bristling combers rolled in, cresting
and breaking with the noise of a park of artillery ; and little
would one suppose that the commerce of a large town (Trujillo)
was all carried through these dangerous breakers. I mention
this circumstance to give an idea of the energy of these people,
in disembarking goods under such disadvantageous circum
stances ; and also to convey an idea of the surf itself, which
appeared so threatening to an old whaler who was considered
the best surf-man between Cape Horn and Panama, that he did
not deem it worth while to come to an anchor there.
I rather enjoyed my new occupation, for sailing a vessel on
that coast was mere child's play ; the sea as smooth as glass,
and but few hidden dangers. With ordinary precaution, one
need never be apprehensive of accident. One serious difficulty
which we had to contend against, was the dense fogs which
prevail in the winter season, and which I think vie with those
that are so common on the banks of Newfoundland, but by
exercising great prudence we escaped accident. During my
term of service, I met many of the prominent landed proprie
tors of the interior, and found them men of great shrewdness
and exceedingly gentleman-like and companionable, whilst their
families were, in many instances, charming, and it was really a

358 REVOLUTIONS.
great treat, after so long a separation from refined society, to
be able to mingle with lady-like and intelligent females once
more. Endeavoring to make myself and my ship as agreeable
as possible to my passengers, my courtesy was repaid by nume
rous invitatious to the various estates in the interior ; and I
now look back with great pleasure to many valuable acquaint
ances thus formed. Indeed my ability to speak the language
was of infinite advantage to me, and brought me in contact
with a class of people whom, in my capacity of ship-master,
I never could have known otherwise.
The great feature of the South American republics is the
revolutions which are continually succeeding each other, and
Peru, par excellence, is celebrated for her ever-varying govern
ment. No president ever serves out his term of office ; and this
being a well-received principle, as soon as the incumbent is
seated in the presidential chair, knowing how uncertain is the
tenure of his office, he commences a wholesale robbery of the
public funds, and manages, before the expiration of the first
year, to have snugly stowed away in the coffers of some foreign
house, enough hard dollars to maintain himfor the rest of his
life. The only man who has been able to sustain himself for any
great length of time is Don Ramon Castillo, a cholo who
rose from the ranks to be the most prominent man in the state.
Old " Boots," as he is familiarly called from his partiality to
" Wellingtons," is a rough, unpolished old Indian, but a first-
rate general, and a man of great decision of character and
great administrative capacity ; but, withal, perfectly unscrupu
lous and extremely avaricious.

''old boots." 359
Once having the taste of power, he determined not to give
it up, and during the last half dozen years has been struggling
to retain it, and he has had his hands full. At one time,
driven to the mountains, he was for half a year lurking with a
handful of followers among the fastnesses of the Andes, until,
in pure desperation, he sallied forth against a splendid army
commanded by General Echenique, and after an engagement
of a few hours, routed them completely. At another time we
find him under the walls of Arequipa, laying siege to a band
of rebels, who have sought the protection of its walls ; and
again we hear of him on the quarter-deck of one of his steam
frigates directing the operations of his fleet.
It was during his contest with Echenique that my steamer
was employed by the latter's government to convey troops and
stores from one point of the republic to another.
According to contract, we were obliged to keep steam con
stantly up, ready at a moment's notice to go off to the point
designated. Oftentimes at midnight the watch would awake
me, informing me that a man-of-war's boat was alongside, when
an officer would announce himself the bearer of sealed orders,
not to be opened until we were outside the harbor. Accord
ingly, we would lift our anchor and proceed to sea, when, after
an hour's steaming, our dispatches would be opened, and our
destination made known.
The people of Peru are really revolution-mad, and are never
contented but when in the heat of a civil war. Elias, Vivanco,
Echenique and Castillo, beside a host of lesser luminaries, are
always at swords' points upon the subject of the presidency ;
and no sooner does one of these gentry get comfortably seated
in the chair of state, than the others conspire to oust him. A

360 PERUVIAN POLITICS.
spirit of violent partisanship pervades the whole nation. And
as high as party-feeling runs in our own country, we can form
no idea of the extremity of measures to which the politicians
of Peru resort to attain their ends ; libels the most vile,
personal assaults and assassinations are common occurrences,
while the party in power do not hesitate to employ all the
means which their lofty position gives them to silence oppo
sition. The enormous consumption of guano in every country in the
new and old worlds, has given an immense impetus to the trade
of Peru within a few years past, and in place of the few coast
ers and traders that formerly visited her ports, now are yearly
anchored in the port of Callao thousands of the world's finest
merchantmen, waiting for their cargoes. When I first visited
the harbor of Callao, I found it a dull, dirty little shipping
town, where no one but ship chandlers, green-grocers and grog
shop keepers thought of living ; but now it had undergone a
wonderful change ; instead of 2,500, we found at least 10,000
people, and in lieu of the mud huts, rows of sightly houses,
devoted to business purposes and as dwelling places.
It was anything but dull, the streets swarming with people,
and the shop-windows brilliant with everything that could
attract the eye nautical; indeed, it was a real sailor's heaven —
oceans of grog, lots of bright-eyed lassies, horses ad infinitum,
and, to cap the climax, as villainous a set of sailor crimps as
ever robbed poor Jack.
In Callao were gathered together perhaps as " fine a collec
tion " of gallows birds as were ever collected in any one spot
on earth, Newgate not excepted ; banished from California by
the Vigilance Committees, or escaped from Botany Bay and

CONDEMNING SHIPS. 30-1
Norfolk Island, they all centred there, and luxuriated in the
utter lawlessness of this delightful spot, indulging the pleasant
little excitements of throat-cutting, garroting and highway
robbery, so much so, that no one ever thought of moving
around at night without having the handle of his revolver in a
position to grasp at a moment's notice.
Rascality appears to be epidemic, peryading almost every
business transaction, and unless one is ready to stretch his con
science, he had better not undertake to do business there.
One principal feature of villainy, on a large scale, is the con
demnation of foreign vessels, selling them by auction, and
putting them under the flag of the country, thereby placing
them beyond reach of reclaim by their foreign owners.
The modus operandi is as -follows : A fine foreign clipper
ship comes into port, and is much admired by a few speculators,
who are on the look-out for a " flyer ;" these chaps cultivate
the acquaintance of the skipper, make themselves extremely
agreeable, dine him, and ride him, and take him to the theatre,
and in short, show him the elephant in the most approved man
ner. After sounding the skipper thoroughly, whether or not
he is a conscientious man, on discovering the least flaw in his
character, they gradually unfold to him their plan of opera
tions, promising him perhaps a larger sum than he ever had in
his life, to aid them in the undertaking. Suddenly, from some
unaccountable cause, the ship begins to leak ; every one is
surprised, and most of all the captain, and after in vain trying
to discover it, he applies to the consul, who orders the ship to
be partially discharged — still the leak continues, and it requires
great exertion to keep the water under. Application is again
16

362 HOW THEY MANAGE IT.
made to the consul, and a survey appointed, and the report is
so very unfavorable, that the consul proceeds formally to con
demn the ship, and have her sold for the benefit of the under
writers ; and after a little languid bidding on the part of the
outsiders, the speculators have her knocked down to them for
forty or fifty thousand dollars less than she cost. Of course the
captain did his best for the underwriters ; he couldn't help
the ship's leaking, and he, of course, acted for the interests
of all concerned in the matter. Of course the consul, a man
representing a great country, like the United States or Eng
land, would not, for the sake of a few thousands, descend to
the commission of a fraud — most certainly -not. Nevertheless,
the ship is no sooner hove down by the new owners, than the
leak is discovered to be occasioned by some augur holes bored
in her counter, by whom, no one knows ; but as the captain goes
home by the next steamer, with his pocket full of drafts — and
the surveyors are found to be very flush, and the consul is
known to have sent home a few extra thousands on his own
private account, the supposition is, that the aforementioned
gentlemen all made a handsome little operation between them,
and that the underwriters were mulcted to the tune of $50,000
to $60,000, while the ship, as sound as the day she entered the
harbor, in a few. weeks sailed out again under a different flag,
and with different owners. Still, notwithstanding the fre
quency of frauds, of which the above is a specimen,' the board
of American underwriters do not deem it expedient to pay an
agent for attending to their business on the coast. The writer
of this thinks he could have saved the New York offices a con
siderable sum, had he held a commission as their agent, with

FREE NEGROES. 363
discretionary powers, when he first appeared on the coast, but
when he did receive it, it was too late to' act, and with no dis
cretionary latitude whatever.
During the last revolution, Don Ramon Castillo, driven to
extremities by his political opponents, put forth a manifesto
declaring that all male slaves that should enlist under his ban
ners should, at the termination of the campaign, be freemen.
This of course produced an electrical effect upon the whole
negro population ; insolent to excess previous to this, and
almost useless," their owners lived in bodily fear of their lives ;
but now, when virtually freed by government, it was impos
sible to control them ; and the slave of yesterday became the
robber and assassin of to-day — plundering and murdering, not
only on the estates of their neighbors, but in their own masters'
houses. About this time I was staying for a few days at the estate
of Casa Blanca, in Canete, and then the planter's house who
entertained us was in a completely fortified state. The walls
were loopholed, and apertures large enough for a man to creep
through were made in them, in order that every room might
communicate with each other, and the occupants be enabled to
act in concert. During this time a band of the negroes belong
ing to the estate, choosing the finest animals of their master's
stud, made off, and probably became impromptu highway
men. In consequence of this iniquitous proceeding on the part of
Castillo, the whole country was overrun by a parcel of savage
negroes who thought as little of killing a man as they did of
eating their dinner, and who would neither work for love
or money. The consequence was that the planter was left

364 COOLIE TRADE.
entirely without means for harvesting his crops, and many
were ruined.
At this juncture a wealthy house undertook the importation
of coolies into Peru to supply the loss of slave labor ; cargo
after cargo arrived and were eagerly sought after by the
landed proprietors, who infinitely preferred them to the negro.
The coolie trade was carried on to a moderate extent, until the
Brothers Lomer made their appearance in Lima. They at
once succeeded (God knows how) in enlisting the merchants
of Lima in their schemes, and with letters from them arrived in
Boston and at once made an arrangement with the wealthy
house of S. & T., whereby they prevailed upon them to go
into an immense coolie business, to be carried on by means of
their fine clipper ships. To cut a long story short, the " West
ward Ho " and " Winged Racer," and yet another ship whose
name I forget, brought over to Peru an immense number of
celestials, and the interested parties realized enormous sums by
their sale. The prejudice against the coolie trade arises
entirely from the inhuman manner in which they have, in some
instances, been treated during the voyage, causing the death of
many hundreds ; but the change for the coolie from misery
and starvation at home is a happy one indeed, and his position,
morally and socially, either on a Peruvian or Cuban plantation,
is far superior to what it was in his own country. By Peruvian
law the ship is allowed to sell the coolie for a stipulated sum
to the planter — sufficient to cover his passage-money from
China, and to yield a round profit to the owner. His term of
service is eight years, and then he is free for life. During those
, eight years he is to be maintained in a manner specified by
government, with such and such rations, and also receives a

HOW THEY ARE TREATED. 365
stipend of from five to six dollars per month. He is to have
feast days and holidays to himself, and in fine, I will venture
to say that his position is a thousand times superior to the
greater part of the laboring portion of the community of Eng
land, Ireland, or of France.
At a later period, while living on a plantation in the vicinity
of Lima, with my family, I had a capital opportunity for wit
nessing the working of this system, and although a northern
man, and opposed in the abstract to the extension of any slave
system, I must acknowledge that I was very favorably im
pressed with this new system of labor. On the plantation
we had a gang of some twenty or thirty coolies, freshly
imported from the vicinity of Swatao ; they came from
aboard ship enervated by sea-sickness and confinement, and
also suffering from the effects of cutaneous diseases from
being constantly wet with salt water. No sooner had they
arrived than they were marched down to a little river running
through the farm and made to bathe and thoroughly cleanse
themselves in fresh water (which was repeated each morning) ;
they were then assigned the quarters formerly occupied by the
now liberated negroes, comfortable mud cabins inclosed with
a high wall ; this was their domain and no one interfered with
their domestic arrangements. At four a.m. they were roused
up and their tasks appointed them ; at eleven o'clock they
came in from the field, received their (stipulated) rations, of
fish and rice, and after resting for three hours, they then went
into the field again and worked until seven p.m., when they
were again served with their rations, and their daily labors
ended. By strict attention to their health, insisting on clean
liness and constant ablutions, in six months they were as stout

366 OUR HOME IN PERU.
and healthy-looking a set of men as one need look upon, and
as I saw them sitting in their quarters of a Sunday morning,
amusing themselves with their national games, I thought how
much improved was their condition from what it had been a
few months before in their own country, as I myself had wit
nessed them ; in the depths of poverty, without a roof to cover
them, or other than the cold ground to lie upon ; without
knowing where they were to get food to save them from fam
ishing, their existence was one long struggle with gaunt
starvation which stared them in the face from their birth to
the grave.
Speaking of my residence upon a plantation, I must say that
the pleasantest days passed in Peru were while living there.
The hacienda, formerly owned by Echenique, the last President
of Peru, and from whence he had been ejected by the revolution
ists the year before, had been made by his efforts a perfect
paradise. The garden, an inclosure consisting of some forty or
fifty acres, was devoted to orchards of the rarest species of
plantains, oranges, limes, peaches, lucomas, apples, pears,
plums and grapes ; while an immense space in the immediate
vicinity of the house was laid out most tastefully with terraced
flower beds, in which were blooming the choicest and rarest
flowers, emitting the most overpowering perfumes, while re
freshed with bubbling fountains, whose waters, escaping in lit
tle rills, encircled the flower beds in their embraces. This
lovely little oasis was kept in perfect order by a scientific
French gardener, who thoroughly understood his business.
The house was a splendid structure, with broad halls and
tessellated court yards, roofed over with colonnades, around
whose pillars twined creepers blooming with bright and lovely

A LOVELY SPOT. 367
flowers. Beneath these colonnades were swung grass ham
mocks, reclining in which, as the soft moonbeams stole
through the clustering vines, stirred by the gentle breezes la
den with the heavenly breath of the sleeping plants, one in
deed might fancy himself in Eden.
Many an evening hour have I gently swung in my capacious
hammock, the vesper bells tolling a lullaby, and stirring many
a sweet recollection of home and friends, while communing in
low tones with one — from whom though long separated — now
sharing my voluntary exile.
Our days passed quickly by ; a ride over the fields on our
fleet horses, a breakfast off of the luscious fruits of our garden,
fresh and glistening with the dew drops, a long siesta, a gal
lop into town, a sumptuous dinner, shared by friends from the
city in search of fresh breezes of the country, a dreamy smoke
upon the roof, with the broad Pacific stretching away, rose-
colored with the last rays of the setting sun, a good old Eng
lish song in the evening, with the piano and harp for an accom
paniment — this was our everyday life. One drawback, however
— being outside the walls, we were liable at any time to an at
tack by robbers, and a pistol and bowie-knife always lay upon
our pillows.

CHAPTER XVII.
CONCLUSION.
The climate of Peru has, until of late years, been considered
one of the finest in the world; the temperature one of astonish
ing equability (seldom varying over twenty degrees from mid
summer to mid-winter), being inimical to those thousand
affections of the throat and chest which are so fatal in northern
climates, while the absence of rain forbids the accumulations
of the stagnant waters and swamps peculiar to the tropics,
inducing the poisonous malarias which beget those terrible
fevers so much dreaded by the unacclimated.
Strange to say, however, without any apparent cause, that
terrible scourge the peste (a mild type of the yellow fever), has
recently made its dread appearance in the republic, almost
decimating certain portions of it in its ravages.
A peculiarity of this disease is, that independently of there
being no inducing causes, it does not confine itself to the coast
or to the lowlands, but seeks the " Sierra," and is most impla
cable in its ravages among the hamlets of the hardy moun
taineers. The character of this epidemic is very similar to that of the
yellow fever, without the excessively violent symptoms of the
former, but the peste is none the less to be dreaded, being
more insidious in its nature and leaving the patient generally

''en route.'' 369
so debilitated that it is almost an impossibility to raise
him. The occasion of my final departure from the west coast was to
me a very sad one, and indeed was most unfortunate in every
respect. But a few months previously, accompanied by my wife,
I had returned from the United States with business views,
and had determined, in the natural course of events, to
permanently settle on the coast ; or at least to remain
sufficiently long to realize enough to enable me to pass the
rest of my days in independence if not in affluence ; but, as
the saying goes, " man proposes and God disposes," and my
case did not belie the adage, for I had not been in Lima two
months before the peste broke out, and after raging with
violence, at last attacked my wife, who, being unacclimated,
was peculiarly liable to it. Finding that the fever had
taken a severe hold upon her, and becoming seriously anx
ious on her account, with the advice of the physician, I
determined to take advantage of the first steamer bound north,
and relinquishing my business, to try the effects of the sea
air in breaking the burning fever, which it seemed was consum
ing her, and must prove fatal unless speedily broken ; and on
the day following my decision we found ourselves an board the
New Granada, steaming towards Panama. The cooling influ
ence of the fresh trade winds soon produced a most beneficial
effect upon my wife's health, and before we had been three days
aboard the steamer, the fever was broken, and the invalid im
proved by the hour.
I had often heard complaints from gentlemen who, in com
pany with their families, had travelled in the coast steamers, of
' the perfect indifference to their comfort manifested by the cap-
16*

370 COURTESY BY STRANGERS.
tains of the boats (with one or two glorious exceptions), but I
had always come to the conclusion that they were probably too
exigeante, and looked for more attention than the captains could
conscientiously bestow ; but my experience during this trip led
. me to believe that those complaints were only too just.
During a voyage of seven days from Callao to Panama, I do
not think that Captain W  , of the New Granada, vouchsafed
a word or a look to myself or wife, notwithstanding our seats
were next his at table. Had this resulted from habitual taci
turnity on his part, no mention would ever have been made of
it, but when in contrast with his excessive affability and cring
ing politeness to a large party, the family of Mr. W  , the
managing partner of the house of Gibbs & Co., the great guns
of the coast, it seemed strange and ill-bred, to say the least of
it ; and more particularly so when contrasted with the uniform
courtesy and really fatherly kindness which Captain Bloomfield,
of the same service, had extended to us on a former voyage.
And in this connection, although it may be out of place, I must
take occasion to acknowledge the extreme courtesy and excessive
kindness shown by the ladies of Mr. W.'s family to my wife,
performing a thousand little sympathetic offices which the
invalid so warmly appreciates when far away from home.
On our arrival at Panama, we found that, as usual, the Ameri
can steamers for the United States had left only a few hours
previously, thus entailing upon us the necessity of remaining
fifteen days at Panama in the midst of the sickly season, with
the option of taking the British and West Indian mail steamer
bound for Europe.
This was a most annoying alternative, and doubly so from
the consciousness that only a few hours earlier and we might

ESCAPE THE MASSACRE. 371
have availed ourselves of the American boat, which we all would
most certainly have done, the European passengers reaching
their destination via New York, in much less time and for much
less money than via the West Indies.
But the English company having no idea of allowing their
passengers the option of the two routes, knowing full well
which way their inclinations would lead them, have given strict
orders that should their steamers from the south enter Panama
bay in time for the passengers to catch the American boat,
that they are to be hove to, until such time as would render it
impossible to make the connection.
Thus, nolens volens, we were condemned to be quietly roasted
beneath the burning rays of a tropic sun, on board of a nasty,
foul little steamer, until our skipper was satisfied that there
was not a ghost of a chance of availing ourselves of the Ameri
can steamer.
After our disembarkation, I found that the foetid atmosphere
of the Isthmus was inducing a second attack of fever, and be
fore I had been two days ashore my wife's situation became so
alarming that the physician insisted that her instant departure
was the only method of saving her life. So I, of course, at
once decided to take advantage of the West India mail steamer
that would leave Aspinwall in the course of a day or two.
My determination was a fortunate one, for it was only on the
fourth or fifth day after our departure that the memorable
" Panama massacre" took place, by which so many Americans
lost their lives.

372 THE ISTHMUS.

PANAMA RAILROAD.
It would be a positive iusult to American enterprise and skill,
for any one to visit the Isthmus of Panama, and to pass over
that monument of human energy, tbe Panama Railroad, without
paying it the tribute of a passing line. On the occasion of my
first visit to the Isthmus, in 1849, and on subsequent occasions,
I had suffered too severely the inconveniencies of mule and ca
noe navigation, over mountain precipices and swollen rivers,
not to be fully alive to all the advantages resulting from this
speedy mode of transit, and I was always ready to take up
cudgels in its defence, when I heard my fellow-travellers com
plain of the little annoyances to which we were subjected, by
an accidental detention, or the like ; but more particularly so,
when listening to their groanings- over the high rate of passage
money, and I sincerely wished that they might be obliged to
make the transit, as I had made it, on mule-back and in a
bungo, during the height of the rainy season, at a cost of not
less than sixty dollars, with a detention of from six to ten
days. I must confess, that when at Panama in 1849, I had con
versed with the engineers who were contemplating the prelimi
nary survey, I was very skeptical as to their ability to ac
complish even that, and on accompanying one of them to the
scene of his labors, and finding him obliged to wade breast deep
in a slimy morass to locate his sights, I was still more firmly
impressed with the impossibility of success ; indeed, a recital
of the difficulties which the original survey had to contend
against, implies a high compliment to the daring conception of

MR. JOHN L . STEPHENS. 373
the projectors of this enterprise. And the Isthmus traveller,
as his eye wanders over the primeval forest, the impenetrable
jungle, the slimy bottomless morass ; as his burning cheek and
aching bones warn him of the deadly miasmas arising from
them, cannot but concede that Mr. John L. Stephens must
have been urged by inspiration when he eloquently pleaded with
capitalists for the support they so generously lent him, in carry
ing out his daring conception.
I leave the task of enumerating the almost insurmountable
difficulties which were overcome in the accomplishment of this
enterprise to a more eloquent pen than I possess ; indeed,
words can give no just conception of obstacles which presented
themselves on every hand. A climate as deadly as any that ex
ists on earth, fatal to the white man even when using the
utmost precaution ; how almost impossible, then, for the unac
climated engineers to prosecute their labors, exposed by day to
the fierce heat of a vertical sun ; wading breast deep in a jun
gle emitting deadly and overpowering miasmas, and resting
by night on the damp, slimy earth, exposed to the seething eva
porations, every particle of which atmosphere is a 'compound of
poisonous gases. Under these destructive influences the arm of
labor was rendered powerless almost as soon as it reached the
scene of action, and cargo after cargo of brawny Irishmen suc
cumbed to the stealthy advances of the destroyer, who fixed
upon them his murderous embraces simultaneously with their
disembarkation. Still the work did not flag, fresh importations
supplied the places of those who had been victimized, and every
pile which supports those miles of tressel-work through those
dread morasses, points in solemn silence to a victim of the irre
sistibility of human enterprise.

37 1 INSURMOUNTABLE OBSTACLES.
In a country where vegetation springs up with mushroom
rapidity, it was not one of the least difficulties which the engi
neer had to contend against, to keep open the wilderness which
with terrible sacrifices he had been enabled to penetrate, for
of such rapid growth and luxuriance is the vegetation of that
part of the world, that a clearing now made would, six months
hence, be not only not discernible, but absolutely impene
trable. The excessive moisture, too, acting in concert with the foetid
heat, if I may be allowed the expression, induces the most rapid
decay, thus attacking and destroying everything where that
most indispensable agent, wood, is concerned. Piles, bridges,.
sleepers — all give way before its fell influence, and the engineer
in dismay recoils before an apparently insurmountable obstacle.
In civilized countries, one great annoyance to be en
countered in the construction of a public work, when large
numbers of men are employed, results from a spirit of insubor
dination, so innate in the vulgar and uneducated ; but in those
countries there is a remedy; men may be discharged and others
employed, the police may be called in, and military even sum
moned to quell a dangerous outbreak ; but here, on the
Isthmus, the small staff of engineers must rely upon themselves,
and it needed more than ordinary firmness to guide with a firm
hand a thousand men composed of Carthagenian and Jamaica
negroes, the former of whom are noted in that part of the
world as being the most turbulent and desperate men in that
lawless region.
Indeed the engineers showed great tact in resorting to the
only expedient which they could probably have hit upon to
save their own lives and prosecute tbe work.

NEGRO VS. NEGRO. 375
Taking advantage of a strong antipathy existing between
the Carthagenian and the Jamaica negroes, and by organizing
the gangs so as to keep nearly au equal number of each
nationality in each — they so managed to fan the flame of
native animosity, as to keep constantly alive the feeling of
antagonism, and thus in case of trouble with one party it was
only necessary to call in the assistance of the other.
Although the preliminary surveys were made in 1849, it
was not until six years after that a locomotive passed over the
entire length of the road, a distance of forty-nine miles.
This fact in itself tells more eloquently than words could do,
the overwhelming obstacles which the engineer corps had to
contend against ; and each and every one of those forty-nine
miles, is a note of a grand requiem which chaunts a lasting
testimonial to the disinterested energy of Mr. John L. Stephens.
Embarking on board the West India Mail Steamer " Dee,"
we bade adieu to the Isthmus with thankful hearts, and drew a
long breath of relief as we steamed out of the harbor of Colon;
and at once felt new life as we inhaled the fresh northwest-trade
winds as they came sweeping over the Caribbean Sea.
The " Dee," a fine commodious ship of two thousand tons,
possessed all the comforts which one could wish for or expect
to find aboard a sea-going steamer; belonging to that powerful
and wealthy organization the West India Mail Steam Packet
Company, she was well fitted, well officered and well manned,
and one might almost have fancied himself aboard a man-of-
war, as he observed the heavy gangs of men at work in their
several departments, and noticed the strict discipline to which
they were all subject; indeed, the marked difference in the man
ning and equipment between the American and British steam-

376 THE CARIBBEAN SEA.
ers, gives one a strong predilection in favor of the latter over
the former; and I must say, that having the option of making
a voyage in an American or an English boat, I should always
prefer the latter, from the increased feeling of security the per
fect discipline observable in the English steam service gives one
who has noticed its entire absence in the American steam
marine. Bravely steaming along, the Spanish main and parting the
laughing wavelets of the Caribbean Sea, a few days brings us
abreast the harbor of Carthagena, once the stronghold of the
Spaniards, until a brave English admiral, nothing daunted by
the long lines of fortifications which bristled malignantly along
the low sand beach at its entrance, swept within it with his fleet,
and, driving its defenders from their ramparts, hauled down
the proud banner of Castile and in its stead unfurled the
English Cross.
These fortifications, perhaps the most extensive and certainly
the most scientifically constructed- of any in the New World,
are now in ruins, and one saddens as he looks upon these relics
of departed grandeur.
The city is a picturesque old place, whose moss-grown and
mildewed, loop-holed, old wall, hiding all but the tower and
steeple of the city, gives it a strangely picturesque appear
ance. On entering its streets, one sees at a glance a decayed
and still decaying city, whose massive store-houses and impos
ing structures tell in mournful silence of past greatness, but of
present ruin.
Taking in a few passengers and' a little freight, we once more
ripple the quiet waters of this beautiful though deserted bay,
and shaving the fortress at its narrow entrance close enough to

THE LAND OF COLOMBIA. 377
heave a biscuit ashore, we at once feel the ocean swell and head
up on our course.
The next day, we make the port of Santa Martha, with its
fine high background of hills and its ruined fortifications,
the cradle of South American liberty, the land of Colombia,
and of Simon Bolivar.
Santa Martha still possesses some importance in the com
mercial world, from its position at the mouth of the great
Magdalena River, whose waters, swollen by the meltiDg snows
of the Andes, bear on its broad bosom the valuable products
of Colombia and New Granada to the ocean. Santa Martha,
indeed, is the starting point for all travellers who visit
Bogota, and more recently a steamboat has been placed upon
the river, which will tend to auzmentit; trade.
Standing boldly across the Caribbean, and breasting the stiff
trade-wind, we in a few day; sighted the islaid of St. Thomas
and entered its snug and capacious barter.
St. Thonas is a Danish island, but its inhabitants are made
up of every nationaKty under the sun, and the home govern
ment beLcg shrewd enough, to see that a Kberal policy would
induce prosperity, exempt not only its own citizens, but every
stranger or ship visiting it, from all dues or taxes whatsoever.
Custom houses are voted humbugs, and with but a very few
salutary restrictions, a shipmaster can do precisely what he
pleases without comment or annoyance from prying officials.
The change front the Spanish island is very marked; there your
every step is dogged, your every motion criticized, while here
you can do exactly as you please.
This island has rather an unenviable notoriety as having
been for years the rendezvous for slavers, and probably, with

378

SAINT THOMAS.

good reason, for its lenient revenue-laws invite these lawless
gentlemen bound to the coast of Africa, to come in to refit, for
often times they are so hard pressed in the United States that
they are obliged to escape without taking in the necessary
supplies, which they are enabled to do here quite as advan
tageously. St. Thomas is a place of considerable importance, from the
fact that merchants from the Spanish main, from the coast
of Mexico, and oftentimes from the west coast, resort thither
to purchase their goods, which, from the absence of revenue-
dues can be had almost as cheaply as in Europe, without one's
incurring the trouble and expense of making a voyage there.
But what gives it its present notoriety is the fact of its
being the depot of the British and West Indian Mail Packet
Company — the centering point from which radiate its widely
extending ramifications.
One of the company's immense and fleet steamers (for in
stance the " Atrato," of 4,000 tons, with a speed of sixteen
knots), leaves Southampton every fifteen days, and after a
twelve days' passage arrives at St. Thomas. Here, on her
arrival are awaiting herewith steam up, smaller steamers be
longing to the same service, bound (after taking- on board the
mails and passengers brought out by the large boat), to Cuba,
Jamaica, Vera Cruz, Barbadoes, Demarara, and Halifax, aud
the precision with which this vast scheme of connections is
carried out is really beautiful, and entitles the projectors to
great praise.
Immediately the signal on the telegraph pole announces the
arrival in the offing of the home boat, these half dozen
steamers make the necessary preparations for taking in cargo

YELLOW JACK. 379
and for bearing off, and no sooner is the anchor of the Parent
boat down than the small steamers haul alongside of her, and
receiving their quota, at once stand out to sea to their various
destinations. A more lovely or picturesque spot than the harbor and city
of St. Thomas it would be difficult to find. Describing a
circle, the bay is hemmed in by lofty hills which secure it from
the violence of the autumnal hurricanes. Fronting the en
trance, the city nestles under the hills, or goes straggling
along their sides, their bright colors contrasting pleasantly
with the dark green foliage.
In spite of its lovely appearances, however, it is a real
" plague-spot," and in defiance of all atmospheric rules is the
stronghold of cholera and yellow fever. One would pronounce
it, as far as locality goes, to be the most healthily situated city
in the Antilles, but, why or wherefore none can tell, yellow
fever appears to be an institution. In Cuba, yellow-Jack only
makes his appearance during the summer months ; in winter
giving its inhabitants a respite, thus allowing northern invalids
to seek with impunity its more genial climate ; but in
St. Thomas, regardless of seasons, it makes coquettish ad
vances at any time, and killing off a few hundreds, again
retires. Probably the most fatal epidemic that ever visited the island
was during the holidays at the close of the year 1850.
Passing a fortnight pleasantly ashore, a gun at midnight
arousing us told us that the English mail had arrived, and that
we must at once repair aboard the Havana steamer. Hastily
packing, we reached our vessel, and at daylight steamed out of
the harbor.

380

HOME AGAIN.

Seven days after leaving St. Thomas we sighted " Moro
Castle," and in a few hours were comfortably located in
Havana, whence, after a stay of some ten days, we again
embarked on board the "Black Warrior," and on the fifth
day the Highlands of Neversink loomed up in the distance.
*********** Surrounded by my little family, who act as anchors mooring
me to my home, I hardly permit myself even to look south
ward ; but oftentimes when hurrying through Wall street, the
taunt royal-mast of some dandy clipper, towering over the
house-tops, attracts my longing gaze, and an involuntary sigh
escapes me as I think of the merry days I have passed floating
over the blue ocean, and discover myself making disagreeable
"comparisons between the past and present.

During the last year of my stay upon the west coast, my at
tention was directed to the great necessity existing for the esta
blishment of an opposition line of steamers to that of the British
company, who, by their extortionate rates and unaccommodat
ing spirit, were curtailing materially the travel, and effectually
impeding the development of the resources of the countries
along which their vessels coasted ; and, with that idea con
stantly in view, I neglected no opportunity for the collection of

FEASIBILITY. 381
all information which might be of use to me in urging the
scheme on my return to the United States.
Upon my arrival in New York, I made use of every effort to
induce parties here, interested in the coast trade, to push the
matter, but finding others in the field who had more leisure
and influence than I had, I awaited patiently until they should
bring their matters to a close, either successfully or otherwise.
Within the past six months, however, finding that the efforts
of others have been abortive, my attention has again been
turned seriously to this subject, and for a time I was sanguine
of success ; indeed, I had good grounds for supposing that the
organization of an American line was, beyond a peradventure, a
fixed fact, for having at my disposal a large amount of sub
scriptions for South American account, an assurance of lucra
tive contracts, and considerable subscriptions promised here, I
looked upon the matter as settled. When, without any appa
rent reason, those who had been the warmest advocates of the
enterprise, and without whose aid we could not move, became
alarmed lest the undertaking should not prove feasible or pro
fitable, and, after hesitating for some time, finally withdrew
altogether. Knowing that there are a large number of mercantile men
who take gre,at interest in the trade of the coast, and in its de
velopment, I have thought that the introduction in this connec
tion of a prospectus which I prepared a few months since, and
which attempts to make manifest the feasibility of the enterprise,
might not be improper.
It is argued, too, that I have presented the undertaking in a
too favorable light ; but I insist that my deductions are in the
main correct.

382 DIVIDENDS.
One has only to examine the statistical reports of the trade
of our own country with the South American. republics, and to
note its yearly increasing importance, as the facilities for the
conveyance of their products from the interior to a point of
embarcation are being consummated, to convince himself of the
absolute necessity of a new and opposition line.
It is further urged that, although in the enjoyment of so-
great a monopoly, even the English company have not been
able to divide more than a meagre percentage on their in
vestments.. The allegation is untrue, but were it otherwise,
the cause would be manifest.
The dividends paid by the British company during the last
seven years are as follows — (besides bonuses, privately paid to
the stockholders, in order to keep the public in ignorance of
their successful business ; and exclusive of the vast amount of
surplus invested in extravagantly built steamers) — viz : Divi
dends for the year 1858, 4 per cent. ; 1851, 10 per cent. ;
1856, 3i per cent. ; 1855, 3 per cent. ; 1854, 5 per cent. ;
1853, 5 per cent. ; 1852, 10 per cent.
The extra expenditures of this company have been enormous;
for their boats being constructed on the most extravagant prin
ciples, consume an unheard of amount of fuel ; so much so, that
it has been deemed expedient to send them back to England to
have them refitted with more economical machinery •* and no
one who knows the cost of sending a large steamer around
Cape Horn (not less than $25,000 either way !) would be sur
prised to learn that a company who had found it necessary
* I am told on good authority, every one of the boats at present on the
coast, which has not already been refitted there, must unavoidably
return to England.

PROSPECTUS. 3S3
to go to this expenditure, not in one but in half a dozen
instances, were unable, however lucrative their business,
to declare such dividends as the trade would seem to
warrant.

PROSPECTUS.
Some fifteen years since, William Wheelwright, Esq., an
American long resident in Chili, and a man of great energy and
penetration, feeling that the immense and growing trade of the
South Pacific coast required other modes of communication and
transportation than those offered by a miserable class of sailing
vessels then navigating it, at once turned his attention to the
collection of such facts and statistics as would warrant his ap
pearing before English capitalists and asking their connivance
and assistance in the establishment of steam communication
from the Isthmus of Panama to one of the southern ports of
Chili. With his accustomed energy, Mr. Wheelwright went earn
estly to work, and with the cooperation of others who were in
terested in the scheme (not only from pecuniary but from patri
otic motives, as tending to develo23 the vast resources of the
countries skirting the Pacific Ocean), succeeded in amassing a
sufficient amount of statistical proof, and assurance of support
on the part of the different governments to enable him to ap
pear before a committee appointed by certain wealthy Scotch
men with such convincing evidence of the increasingly valuable
trade of the coast, that they did not hesitate in reporting favo
rably, and measures were at once taken for the establishment

384

AN AMERICAN LINE,

of the " Pacific Steam Navigation Company." This Com
pany has now been established about twelve years, during which
time they have been highly successful, and from their profits,
besides earning fair dividends, have been enabled to build from
time to time several splendid steamships (more than trebling
their original tonnage), and also have become the proprietors
of some extremely valuable real estate.
Enjoying a monopoly, the British company, like all very suc
cessful corporations, have been careless of popularity, feeling
that theirs was the only mode of communication or of transpor
tation, and have established a tariff for freight and passage mo
ney, which while it filled their coffers, curtailed very materially
the business of the coast, and prevented thousands from travel
ling, who, at a moderate rate, would have availed themselves
of such means of transport.
Not caring for popularity, no concessions were made to the
prejudices of those travelling on board their vessels, and neither
ordinary civility nor a spirit of conciliation has been manifested
towards the natives of the coast who, in the absence of another
line, are obliged to avail themselves of these ships.
Incapacitated by the exorbitant rates exacted by this com
pany, from availing themselves of the facilities offered by the
Panama Railroad Company for a direct importation of goods
from Europe and the United States, thus avoiding the dangers
and delays of Cape Horn ; exasperated by the unaccommodat
ing spirit manifested by all connected with this enterprise, the
people doing business on the coast and all those who have been
in the habit of travelling by this line, have long since looked
earnestly to the establishment of another line, which, while it
would be a benefit to the whole coast and a source of great

SPASMODIC EFFORTS. 385
profit to those interested in it, would force the British mono
poly to act with a more liberal spirit towards those brought in
connection with it.
Spasmodic efforts have been made for several years past by
parties in the United States, in connection with merchants on
the coast, to get up an opposition line, but as the persons here
were, as a general thing, ignorant of the requirements of the
coast and of its resources, they failed in convincing capitalists
sufficiently to induce their support.
During the past two years, however, an earnest move has
been made in this affair among several wealthy Peruvians and
Chilians, who, having been ill-treated and injured in business by
the arrogance and excessive rates of the English company, have
determined to push this matter through, either in England or
in the United States, and to give practical evidence of their
support by large subscriptions of capital, and lending all their
influence in securing lucrative contracts, which would in them
selves alone warrant the establishment of a line.
Profoundly impressed with the vast importance of the rapidly
increasing trade of the West Coast, and of the utter inadequacy
of the present steam line for the transportation of its commerce,
or for that rapidity so requisite to an active trade, at the insti
gation of many deeply interested in, and fully alive to the re
quirements of the coast, certain parties in the United States,
practical men, and who have long resided on the Pacific sea
board and are intimately acquainted with its trade and its re
sources, have determined to use all their efforts for the esta
blishment of an American line of first class screw steamships,
to share the yearly augmenting profits of the English company.
Sanguine not only of success, but of the certainty of large
17

386 PANAMA VS. CAPE HORN.
profits on the investment, the promoters of this enterprise
would set forth, as the basis of their operations, some state
ments regarding the actual trade of the coast, from statistics
collected while doing business there, and perfectly authentic
(and it might not be out of place here to mention that one of
the principals in the enterprise, himself commanded a steamer
on the coast, and has likewise traded upon it as master and
supercargo of sailing vessels).
THE DIRECT TRADE OF THE WEST COAST, VIA THE ISTHMUS OF
PANAMA, WITH EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES.
The route to be traversed by the proposed line, skirts the
sea-board of the republics of New Granada, Ecuador, Peru,
Bolivia and Chili.
The foreign exports and imports of these countries, amount
annually, in the aggregate, to the large sum of sixty millions
of dollars ; the entire commerce which these millions represent,
is carried by medium of* sailing vessels, via Cape Horn, subject
of course, to the usual delay of from four to six months in
making the voyage, to the deterioration in the value of mer
chandise in consequence of the constant change of climate, to
the damage resulting from being shut up in the confined
atmosphere of a ship's hold for half a year, and in fine, to all
the casualties to which sailing vessels are so peculiarly liable
on that long and arduous voyage ; and last, but not least, to
the great loss of interest on the money invested, and to the
latitude thus given for variation in the prices of goods shipped
to a market.
No one felt more sensibly the inconvenience or regretted

PACIFIC COAST STEAMERS. 387
more sincerely the loss attendant upon this long and uncertain
mode of transportation, than did the merchants on the coast,
whose financial operations were so materially crippled by it ;
but where was the remedy ?
The completion of the Panama Railroad was hailed by all,
as a solution of this problem.
With steam from Valparaiso to Panama ; with a railroad
across the isthmus, from the Pacific to the Atlantic, and with
a regular steam communication from thence to the United
States and Europe, who would dream of exposing their more
valuable .merchandise to the uncertainties of a Cape Horn
voyage 1 Thus they argued, but their anticipations were not
destined to be realized.
The English companies with apparently inconceivable blind
ness to their own interest, not only refused to cooperate with
them in their desire for a direct transportation, but actually
advanced their rates, which effectually deterred them from
making the experiment.
One of the strongest inducements for the carrying out of
this enterprise, would be to further the views of those desirous
of availing themselves of it, as the means of a direct trade ; for
although it might seem impossible to those who have not con
sidered the subject, for steamers to compete with sailing
vessels on so long a route, still, on estimating the ten thousand
miles more of distance, by the Cape Horn route, and in view
of the great loss in interest, and the length of time necessary
for returns and remittances, one will discover the difference in
freight by the two routes would not only not be so great as he
had imagined, but in many instances, would be actually in
favor of : h.1 J* 1.1 ¦ . j i -i route.

388

ILLUSTRATION.

By way of Illustrations-Suppose two shipments of equal
value to be made to Peru from New York, the one via Cape
Horn, the other via the isthmus.

" SHIPMENT VIA CAPE HORN."
Cost of merchandise, say 100 tons at $500 per ton $50,000
Freight to Callao at $15 do  j'sOO
Int. on cost of shipment for five months, (rate in
Peru), 12 per cent  2,500
Estimated damage by deterioration from change of
climate, etc., etc., etc., 2 per cent  1;000
$55,000,
" SHIPMENT VIA PANAMA."
Cost of Merchandise, say 100 tons at
$500 per ton  $50,000
Int. on money, 1 month at 12 per cent . . 500
Freight from New York to Aspinwall, $8 per
ton
Freight by rail across isthmus $12 per ton
" Steam to Callao 10 " 3,000
 $53,500
Showing a saving of $1,500 by the isthmus route. $1,500
From the foregoing we discover that goods could be im
ported from the United States in one-fifth the time required by
the Cape Horn route, and at a saving of 30 per cent, in favor
of the Panama route, while from Europe the expense would be

COAST TRADE. 389
only at a comparatively small advance, and hence it is but fan-
to infer that of the sixty millions of imports and exports, that
at least one-fifth would take the most expeditious route. One-
fifth of $60,000,000 is $12,000,000, representing 40,000 tons
of merchandise, which at $10 per ton would yield an annual
freight amounting to $400,000 ; this in itself would be almost
a sufficient basis for the establishment of a second line.
i COASTWISE NAVIGATION.
Only those who have traded on the coast can have any con
ception of the immense traffic carried on along its shores, from
Cape Horn to the Equator.
The states of New Granada and Ecuador exchange their
cocoa, their coffee and their fruits ; Peru her sugars, her wines,
her guano, and her wool, with Chili for her flour, her metals,
her lumber, and her coal ; thus creating a healthy and active
trade throughout the whole length of the coast.

Chili imports from New Granada to amt.

of

. $150,000

" exports to ditto

a

60,000

" imports from Bolivia'

u

. 600,000

" imports from Peru

ii

. 2,000,000

" exports to do.

li

. 1,800,000
$4,610,000
Say the amount of the Chilian trade sums up . . $5,000,000
The local trade of the Peruvian, Bolivian and Ecua
dorian coasts will certainly equal that amount :
say  $5,000,000
Amounting together to  $10,000,000
390 PASSENGERS.
which is the usual estimate of the coastwise trade. These ten
millions of dollars represent say 50,000 tons of freight, which
would avail itself of steam, and which is at present all carried
by small sailing coasters, at the very high rate of $12 per ton,
while by the contemplated line, the freight (between Chili and
Peru) would not exceed $5 per ton — thus certainly securing at
least three-fourths, - or say 37,500 tons of freight annually,
which, at $5 per ton, would amount to $187,500.
Sailing vessels labor under a peculiar disadvantage on this
coast ; generally of an inferior build, badly manned and expen
sive in outfit — they are. obliged to contend with calms and
against head winds which, always blowing in one direction,
render the windward voyage uncertain and protracted. No
sailing vessels could afford to take freight at less than eight
dollars, and while the English boats charge twenty, the new
line would take the bulk at $5.
From the foregoing estimates of the coastwise and foreign
trade, we may calculate upon 40,000 tons through freight at
$15 per ton  $600,000
(the English rates being $45 per ton),
Upon 37,500 tons coastwise freight at $5 .... 181,500

Or say $100,000 gross freight money.

$181,500

PASSENGERS.

The population of the States which border this route, amounts
to a total of 8,000,000 inhabitants, a large part of whom are
engaged in commercial pursuits.
The postal arrangements of these countries being exceedingly

SPECIE. 391
defective, and in the absence of any reliable mode of making
exchanges (there being no banks), besides a strong natural pro
pensity on the part of the lower classes to wander from point
to point peddling merchandise, all tend to induce a considera
ble amount of travel, and balsas, canoes, sailing vessels, and
steamers go thronged to their various destinations.
Large as the travel is, it would be much greater were the
rates of passage on a moderate scale, but notwithstanding their
excessive rates the English boats go laden to their full
capacity. By close observation of the passengers travelling in the Eng
lish boats, a fair estimate of their number, making an average
of the " way" and " through " passengers, would be :
For Cabin (through) passengers, 100 at $150 . . $105,000
" Cabin and second cabin (way.) passengers, 4,000
at $25  100,000
" Steerage passengers, 6,000 at $12 . . . . 12,000

$211,000

Whole amount of passage money would be, say $300,000.

SPECIE.

A most important item in this connection would be the
freight on the treasure shipped between the more important
points on the coast, and also the large amounts annually
shipped to the Bank of England.
In absence of all banks, and in countries where the govern

392 MAILS.
ments are in so unsettled a state, exchanges are made entirely
in specie, and one need only inform himself of the trade of a
locality to approximate to the value of the specie continually
in transit.
It is estimated that the English boats receive on board an
nually $20,000,000 precious metals, at an average freight of |
per cent., amounting to $100,000.
It would be fair to calculate for the new line, say,
$10,000,000, at i per cent  $50,000

MAILS.
Notwithstanding the English company have contracts with
various countries along its route for the conveyance of the
mails, nevertheless the new line would enjoy a very handsome
income on the freight on the correspondence which . it would
attract. Running at a speed exceeding that of the English
company, and connecting with the fleet steamers plying between
New York and Aspinwall, mail matter forwarded by them and
thence to Europe, would anticipate by at least ten days, the
letters dispatched by the English mail, via St. Thomas.
The following comparison will illustrate the time and expense
saved by the new line (as it is proposed to run), in a voyage
from Europe to the South Pacific coast over the old line (under
the existing arrangement) :

COMPARISON OF ADVANTAGES. 3J)3
BY THE ENGLISH MAIL ROUTE UNDER THE EXISTING
ARRANGEMENT.
Tl C tl -r> „ PARE. NO. DAYS.
irorn Southampton to Panama, per " British
and West Indian Mail Steam Ship Co." $250 27.
From Panama to Valparaiso, per " British
Steam Navigation Co."  290 22
$540 49
BY THE AMERICAN LINE AS IT IS PROPOSED TO RUN.
PARE. DATS. PARE. NO. DAYS.
Amount brought down  $540 49.
From Southampton to New
York, per Atlantic Steamers $125 11
From New York to Panama. . 80 10
From Panama to Valparaiso . . 150 17

355 38 $355 38

$185 11
Showing a saving in time, in favor of an American Line, of
eleven days, and in passage money of $185 over the English
Line, which would in itself secure a majority of the through
passengers, who, independently of economizing time would
naturally select the route via the United States, as offering
more variety, and at the same time avoiding the pestilential
climate of the West Indies.
The correspondence would of course seek the shortest route.
11*

594 ESTIMATED EXPENSES.

ESTIMATED COST OF A LINE OP FOUR SCREW STEAMSHIPS WITH
THEIR RUNNING EXPENSES FOR ONE YEAR.
4 Screlv" ships of about 1,200 tons each, with
dupKcate machinery, and complete with all
the modern improvements  $400,000
5 good hulks as coal depots with moorings,
buoys, boats, etc  25,000
3,000 tons of coal placed on board said hulks,
at $13  40,000
Real Estate, etc., etc  10,000
Cost of putting the steamers in the port of Val
paraiso  . 15,000
Cost of stores for crews and passengers for six
months to bo placed on the coast. . . . 50,000

Amount required for the enterprise  $600,000
In order to set on foot this undertaking, it is proposed to
.organize an association to be known under the name of " The
South Pacific Steam Navigation Company." The capital
stock of the company to be one million dollars : six hundred
thousand dollars to be at present subscribed for, in six thou
sand shares of one hundred dollars each, ten per cent, to be
paid in cash and the balance in instalments, to be determined
by the company.
The following is an estimate of the expenses of the proposed
line for one year, and of the corresponding receipts :

RECEIPTS FOR A YEAR 305
Provisions for 24 voyages, 48 trips (1 year) for
passengers and crews, say  $50,000
Wages, officers and men  15,000
Coal for 12 months, 15,000 tons at $12 . . . 180,000
Salaries of agents and officers, say  25,000
Incidental expenses  10,000

$335,000

Say  $400,000
Wear and tear, 10 per cent., or say .... 50,000
$450,000
RECEIPTS FOR ONE YEAR.
Freight for 48 trips, say 500 tons, (ca
pacity 1,000 tons) through freight
per trip 24,000 tons at $15 . . . $360,000
(The English Company asking $45).
Passengers 48 trips, 12 through passen
gers each trip, at $150, English
boats' rates $250, say  80,000
6,000 steerage passengers at an average
of $10  60,000
2,000 2d cabin passengers at $25 • . 50,000
Freight on specie, say $10,000,000 at f
per cent  15,000
Mails, say  15,000
 $100,000 $250,000

396 RELATIVE ADVANTAGES.
Showing an annual receipt over expenditures of considerably
more than $200,000.
Assuming the foregoing estimates of the coast trade to be
correct, we find that there would be at moderate rates a freight
movement sufficient to employ treble the amount of steam
tonnage, now navigating the South Pacific ; and knowing how
increased facilities beget an active trade, it would be but fair
to look for a considerable augmentation of the coast business,
should such a line be established.
The English company has certainly an advantage over aDy
other that may be established, in having contracts for the
mails for the republics along her route ; but it is not improba
ble that at the expiration of those contracts (some two years
hence), the New Line (should it prove a popular enter
prise), would be enabled to obtain its share of government
patronage. The New Line would possess one very great advantage
over the English company, which would more than counter
balance the benefits resulting for the mail contracts, which
would be in the immense saving of fuel, over the Old
Line. In constructing the vessels for the New Line, it is proposed
that their models shall be such that while making an average
speed of 13 knots they shall not consume over 24 tons of coal
per 24 hours ; and one has only to examine the propellers,
now navigating our coasts, in order to assure himself that ves
sels combining the above qualifications can be built. Admit
ting this, four such vessels would consume annually (48 trips

ECONOMY OF NEW LINE. 397
at 11 days each), say 200,000 tons at $12 . . . $240,000
While four of the English ships at present em
ployed, consuming as they do 60 tons per
day, would burn annually 49,000 at $ 12 . . 588,000

$348,000

Showing an extra expenditure on the part of the
English company of over  $350,000

THE END.

BROOKS BUILDING, 124 GRAND ST.
3 doors East of Itro.idway
NEW YORK November 1858.

NEW AND POPULAR BOOKS,
JUST PUBLISHED BY
CHARLES SCRIBNER

TIMOTHY TITCOMB'S LETTERS
To Young People, Single and Married. 1 Vol. 12mo
$1 00 ; in full gilt, $1 50. 9th Edition.
The London Literary Gazette says : — " We have never read a work
which better inculcates the several duties and responsibilities of young
men and women, married or single."
PEASANT LIFE IN GERMANY
By Anna C. Johnson, author of " Myrtle Wreath,"
" The Iroquois," &c. 1 Vol. 12mo, 450 pp. $1 25.
" Just such a book as only a woman could write, and a woman of
common sense, independence, intelligence, close observation, and great
energy and perseverance. Instead of the beaten track of" tourists — a
thread-bare description of the great lions, the cities, the cathedrals and
castles, antiquities and works of art — we have something fresh, a familiar
talk, as a gifted woman can talk, about theguilds and trades, farmers and
farming, the military system and its effects, the ordinary routine of
housekeeping, the domestics, ways of cooking, <Stc, agricultural fairs,
vineyards and the vintage, legends and superstitions, the social life of
the people, their schools, employments, amusements, funerals, and just
such things as travellers do not ordinarily observe, and such as are
curious to know."
New book by tbe author of " Timothy Titcomb's Letters."
BITTER SWEET.
By Dr. J. G. Holland. 1 Vol. 12mo., cloth, 75 cents;
full gilt, $1.25.
Bitter-Sweet is an American Poem, in its spirit, and in what may be
called its machinery. The beneficence of the mission of evil is the rea-
subject of the poem: and this gives to it its pleasant and attractive
name. The performance consists of representations of conversations,
events and scenes occurring in the family mansion of an old Puritan
farmer of New England, on Thanksgiving evening, and both, story and
lesson, are given with charming power, while the intimate treatment
of •' -¦)] is nmrkfd h ¦ the fi-i-sh .«> an 1 'i is; ii.-ili'y which cli.irncterizc
th. ..., h.,|- O. jl...  '. U-.. i: ,.

SCRIBNERS LATEST PUBLICATIONS.

THE GOSPEL ACCORDING TO ST. MARK.
Explained by J. Addison Alexander, D. D. 1 Vol.
12mo., cloth, $1 25 ; in half calf, $2 00.
DISCOURSES ON COMMON TOPICS OF CHRISTIAN
FAITH AND PRACTICE.
By Eev. Jas. W. Alexander, D. D. 1 Vol. octavo,
450 pages ; in cloth, $2 ; half calf or cloth gilt, $ 3 50 ;
morocco, extra, $5.
From Preface. — " Let me avow that there are doctrinal statements
in the following pages, which, though in no sense novel, are such as
conduce to the very life of my soul, and such, therefore, as I am ex
ceedingly desirous, in my humble measure, to rescue from misappre
hension and inculcate on my children and friends. * * * Years fly-
apace, natural vigour wanes, and the opportunities of personal influ
ence become fewer; but my profound conviction of the verities here
proposed, waxes stronger and stronger with a corresponding earnest
ness to diffuse and impress them."
NATURE AND THE SUPERNATURAL.
As together constituting the one system of God. By
Eev. Horace Bushnell, D. D. 1 Vol. octavo, 600
pages, $2 ; half calf, $3 50 ; morocco extra, $5.
This work is a thorough and philosophical discussion of the great
question of the age. It is a triumphant vindication of the gospel-
history and the Christian Religion against the prevailing forms of scep
ticism. Its object is to verify, as against the naturalism of the day, the
supernatural facts of the gospel-history and the facts of a genuinely
Christian experience. It undertakes to establish the facts of Christi
anity or the Christian Revelation, without raising at all the question of
inspiration, and to verify, in short, the Christian salvation as being a
Divine work among the' causes of nature, both in the matter of Christ's
mission, and in the inward application of it to the soul.
THE THEOLOGY OF CHRISTIAN EXPERIEN CE.
Designed as an Exposition of the " Common Faith" of
the Church of God. By Rev. Geo. D. Armstrong,
D. D. 1 Vol. 12mo., 350 pages, $1.
Extract from the Preface. — " There is a ' Common Faith ' of the
Church of God on earth, and this extending to a far greater number of
particulars than one would think from examining the various systems
of theology, which find favor with Christian men. In the following
treatise the author has attempted to gfve a systematic presentation of
lliis ' Common Faith."

SCRIBNERS LATKST PUBLICATIONS.

HISTORY OF THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
Comprising the first three centuries from the birth of
Christ to the reign of Constantine the Great, A. D.
1-311. By Philipp Schaff, D. D., author of "His
tory of the Apostolic Church." 1 Vol. 8vo., $2 50.
This work, though not on so extended a scale as that of Meander,
is more than a mere manual, like that of Hase or Gieseler. While
offered as the first volume of a complete history of the church down to
the present day, it is also complete in itself as a history of the first
three centuries — that formation period, so peculiarly interesting to all
observers of the progress of the Church. The reader will find the same
extensive and thorough learning, philosophical. analysis and generaliza
tion, devout earnestness of spirit, calmness and freedom of judgment,
lucid arrangement and truly fascinating style, which have given the
author's former work its place in the front rank of standard religious
and theological literature. THE POWER OF PRAYER.
As illustrated in the wonderful displays of Divine Grace,
at the Fulton St. and other meetings in New York.
By the Eev. Iren^us S. Prime, D. D., editor ol
"The New York Observer." 1 Vol. 12mo., $1.
An authentic and reliable history of the origin and progress of these
meetings — the manner in which they are conducted — sketches of the
thrilling scenes attending and surrounding them, with u, complete
record of the most remarkable cases of awakening and conversion, re
quests for prayer and extraordinary answers, striking incidents and
interesting religious experiences. Early in the year 1859.
A HISTORY OF THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH IN TABULAR
FORM.
In fifteen Tables. Presenting in Parallel Columns a
Synopsis of the External and Internal History of the
Cburch from the Birth of Christ to A. D. 1858. By
Professor H. B. Smith, D. D. 1 Vol. folio.
It will be in fifteen tables, presenting in parallel columns a synopsis
of the external and internal history ot the Church, from the birth of
Christ to A. D. 1858. Each table contains twelve synchronistic columns,
viz : three upon the general characteristics, the contemporaneous his
tory, and the state of culture and philosophy in each pei-iod ; three
upon the external history, and six upon the internal history, under
the heads of church literature, polity, worship, discipline and life, doc
trines and controversy, heresies and schisms. One table will be de
voted to the history of the Church in this country ; alphabetical and
chronological lhts of Councils, Pope3 and Patriarchs, with a full index,
will be appended. This work differs from other chronological tables
in aiming at a scientific digest of the materials, rather than a mere col
lection of facts and dates. The divisions into periods and tables are
made, not by centuries but by signal historic epochs.

THE LITERARY ATTRACTIONS OF THE
BIBLE.
OE, A PLEA FOB THE WORD OF GOD, CONSIDERED AS A CLASSIC.
BY LE ROY J. HALSEY, D. D.
1 Vol. ISmo. $1 25.
In the following pages it is proposed to present an outline of what
maybe called the incidental attractions of the Bible — to set forth its
claims, both as a classic and as a book of general education. Regarded
6imply as a book of learning, of taste and genius, of history and elo
quence, it has exerted an influence which cannot be too highly estimated)
and commends itself to every cultivated understanding. It is the bool$
of our learning, not less than our religion ; the basis of our civilizationA
not less than our salvation. It has moulded into shape, it has quickened '
into life, the whole body of our secular learning, as well as our theology
it has breathed its own vital spirit into all our science, literature, legis
lation, philosophy, and social and political institutions.
It is these attractions, which may be felt and appreciated even by
the irreligious and worldly-minded, which we propose to group togeth
er in one distinct and connected view.
SERMONS FOR THE NEW LIFE.
BY HORACE BUSHNELL, D. D,
I VoL l2mo. 456 pages. $1.25.
CONTENTS. I.— Every Man's Life a Plan of God.— II.— The Spirit in Man.— III.—
Dignity ofHuman Nature shown from ita Ruins. — IV. — The Hunger of the Soul.—
V.— The Reason of Faith. — VI.- Regeneration. — VII.— The Personal Love and Lead
of Christ.— VIII. — Light on the Cloud.— IX.— The Capacity of Religion Extirpated
by Disuse.— X.— Unconscious Influence.— XI— Obligation a Privilege.— XII.—
Happiness and Joy.— XIII.— The True Problem, of Christian Experience.— XIV.—
The Lost Purity Hestored.— XV.— Living to God in Small Things.— XVI.— The
Power of an Endless Life.— XVII.— Respectable Sin.— XVIII.— The Power of
God in Self-Sacrifice.— XIX.— Duty not Meaiuved by Our Own Ability.— XX.— He
that Knows God will Confess Him.— X&.1.— The Efficiency of the Passive Virtues
XXII.— Spiritual Dislodgments.— XXIII.— Christ as Separate from the World.
CHINA, ITS RELIGIONS AND SUPERSTI
TIONS.
OE, DARKNESS IN THE FLOWERY LAND-.
BY REV. M. S. CULBERTSON.
1 Vol 12mo. Engraving. Price 75 cents.
It contains a graphic and comprehensive account of the religions,
popular superstitions, customs, and social condition of the Chinese — the
result of eleven years of careful observation and study, while laboring
as a missionary in habits of daily intercourse with the people, with ».
knowledge of their language. #
The view presented of their religious degradation, cannot fail to m
terest every benevolent heart, in the efforts making to evangelize them.
As an aid to the minister in the monthly concert of prayer for Foreign
Missions, the work will be found very valuable. At the same time
il. is well adapted for the Sunday School Library; and indeed must be
interesting to every intelligent reader, who desires information about a
country containing four hundred millions of inhabitants — one- third of
the human family.