"I give theft Books
[far the fou\ - Colony"

- ILRMR&lfSF •

J90!T

YOYAGES AND TEAYELS
OF
LOED BRASSEY

VOL. II.

PAPERS AND ADDRESSES
By LORD BRASSEY, K.C.B., D.C.L.
NAVAL AND MARITIME 1871 to 1893. Arranged
and Edited by Captain S. Eardley-Wilmot,
R.N. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 10s.
WORK AND WAGES. Edited by J. Potter, and
with Introduction by George Howell, M.P.
Crowa 8vo. 5s.
MERCANTILE MARINE AND NAVIGATION,
from 1871 to 1894. Arraaged and Edited by
Captain S. Eardley-Wilmot, R.N. Crown 8vo.
5s. 
London : LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.
New York : 15 East 16"> Street.

VOYAGES AND TEAVEL8

OF

LORD BRASSEY, K.C.B., D.C.L.

from 1862 to 1894

akkangbd and edited by

CAPTAIN S. EAEDLEY-WILMOT

IN TWO VOLUMES— VOL. II.

LONDON
LONGMANS, GBEEN, AND CO.
AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16th STREET
1895
All rights reserved

CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME

PAGK
VII. A THIRTEEN MONTHS' CRUISE TO INDIA AND
AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87. REPRINT, ' SUNBEAM
papers ' (continued)  1
VIII. A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892. REPRINT,
' FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW,' 1893 . . . .176
IX. A RUN TO THE EAST IN 18E3-94. REPRINT, ' NINE
TEENTH CENTURY,' 1894  2 IS
APPENDIX : SUMMARY OF VOYAGES COMPILED
FROM LOG-BOOKS  249
INDEX  .251

VII
A THIRTEEN MONTHS' CRUISE TO INDIA
AND A USTRALIA IN 1886-87 (continued)
VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE
On May 17 we sailed from Albany for Adelaide. Leave
From the snug shelter of Princess Eoyal harbour, Albany
through the narrows, to the open waters of King
George's Sound, we were under steam. Off
Breaksea Island we made sail to a fresh breeze
from the north-east.
The harbour master at Albany predicted that
the wind would gradually work round to the
north-west.. He strongly advised us to stand out standout
to sea on the port tack, keeping at a distance of u°n^ 5ail
not less than fifty miles from the coast. Forty-
eight hours elapsed before this encouraging
prophecy was fulfilled. In the interval we suc
ceeded in making good an average speed of five
knots on a course to the southward of the direct
track for Adelaide. The weather was fine and
clear. The wind was moderate. A short and
lumpy head sea showed that in the great Aus
tralian, Bight the wind was blowing with force
from the north-east.
VOL. II. B

2 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

On May 20, in the afternoon, the wind shifted
to the west. It steadily increased in strength, and
on Sunday, the 22nd, for a few hours it blew a
A westerly -whole gale. The sky was clear. The sun shone
forth brilliantly, giving a magnificent effect to the
heaving masses and breaking crests of the great
rollers of the Southern Ocean. We scudded
before the gale at a speed of twelve knots an
hour. At 11 p.m. on the 22nd we passed astern of a
large sailing ship under easy sail, close hauled,
standing to the southward on the starboard tack.
This was the first sailing vessel we had met at
sea since we left the Malabar coast. At midnight
sail was reduced. The strength of the westerly
current was uncertain. Squalls of wind and
blinding rain were coming up in quick succession.
It was prudent in the circumstances to endeavour
to make Kangaroo Island in the daylight. At
5 a.m. on the 23rd I went into the foretop, and
remained an hour and a half, anxiously looking
for the light on Cape Borda, the western extremity
of Kangaroo Island. Our landfall subsequently
proved that we were well within the range of its
powerful rays, but no gladdening and reassuring
beam pierced through the darkness to the anxious
watchers in the ' Sunbeam.' It was becoming a
serious question whether we should venture to
run further in towards the Investigator Strait,
when land was seen on the starboard bow, and we
had the great satisfaction of finding that our dead

Heavy squalls
Thick
weather

Make the
land

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE £
reckoning was correct, and that we were in an
excellent position. Nothing now remained but to
crowd all possible sail, and press on to the shel
tered waters inside Kangaroo Island. At 7.30
p.m. the entrance to Port Adelaide, and the lights
in its pleasant marine suburb of Glenelg, were in
view. We laid-to for the night, most thankful to Lay-to for
the merciful Providence which had carried us in
safety through a night of extreme anxiety.
Soon after daylight on May 24 we were
boarded by a deputation from the Holdfast Bay a welcome
Yacht Club, who had been up all night on the AUStaiia
look-out for the ' Sunbeam . ' Our passage through
the Investigator Strait had been telegraphed from
the Lighthouse on Cape Borda, and it was calcu
lated by the yachting fraternity that we should
arrive off Glenelg in the evening. Their estimate
was correct, but we had preferred to stand off and
on, rather than bring-up in the darkness in an ill-
selected position. In graceful terms the deputa
tion gave us a hearty welcome, and presented an
address, which we shall always value as a remi
niscence of the first incident in our happy visit to
South Australia. While the deputation were at
breakfast, Mr. Stock, the Mayor of Glenelg, and
his daughters arrived on board, bearing charming
bouquets of flowers, and renewing the genial
welcome we had already received.
While these agreeable ceremonies were going
forward, we-were- guided by the harbour master of Anchor off
Glenelg to an anchorage off the jetty. The view
B 2

4 CRUISE TO INDIA- AND AUSTRALIA. " IN: M86-S7

View from
the anchorage

of the coast from the deck of the.' Sunbeam '. was
most pleasing. Behind Glenelg, the towers and
steeples of its churches and public buildings,
clearly seen over the intervening plain, indicate
the situation of Adelaide. The city is enclosed,
as in an amphitheatre, by the Mount Lofty range,
rising in its higher peaks to commanding altitudes,
and extending, in a direction nearly parallel to
the eastern shore of the Gulf of St. Vincent, as
far as the eye can reach. The steep slopes of the
Mount Lofty range are richly wooded, and clothed
at this season of abundant rains with fresh green
grass. On the morning of. our. arrival the scene
was one of surpassing beauty under the varying
aspects of shadow and sunshine.
I here insert the usual extract from the.
log:—

Analysis of
the log

Date

Mav 17

Long

S. E.
Off Breaksea Island

, 18

35-38

, io

36-23 1

, so

36-25

, 21
35 59
> ---
36-55
, 23
35-30
, 21
At Gl 1
Total
199-51 122-10
125-13
127-56 132-17
137-10
euclg
Detaxcz j
Sail Steam
100120 118
135206
265 95
WlXDS
Light and variable
N.E. to N. by V."
N.N.W. to N.N.E.
N.W. to W.N.W.
V,'., strong
W., fresh gale
Veering to S.W., moderating
May 24. — As soon as the anchor had been let
go, we hurried ashore, and drove to Adelaide to
VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 3
attend the Governor's levee. All the official visit
world and the leading men in the colony mustered Adelaide
on the occasion, to do honour to the Queen in the
person of her able representative, Sir William
Eobinson. In the afternoon we accompanied the Governor
to the races. The most interesting race was a Attend the
steeplechase, over timber jumps as formidable as
those in the Campagna of Eome. There were two
entries, and the race was closely contested. Both
horses were rather beaten, but neither made a
mistake in three rounds of a very stiff course.
Walking about among the crowd of spectators, it
was delightful to receive many greetings, cor
dially given to a newly-arrived visitor from the old
country. The race-course is surrounded by a belt
of fine timber, and charmingly situated near the
foot of the beautiful Mount Lofty range.
On leaving the race-course we walked to
Government House, through the Botanical Gar- Botanical Cteii'cLciis
dens, in which the tree ferns of the antipodes, and
the always graceful bamboo, form a chief feature
of the plantations.
Interviewing is a distinctive feature of Aus
tralian as of American journalism. A company of
representatives of the Adelaide press spent the zeaiofthe
night at the semaphore station at Port Adelaide, press
in anticipation of the arrival of the ' Sunbeam.'
Our movements unintentionally eluded their
observation, and it was not until 11 p.m. that we
were boarded by a member of the press, who,

f> CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

in pleading accents, implored me not to send him
away empty-handed after an arduous and persever-
Perseve- jng chase of twenty-four liours. The following
rewarded result of a midnight conference appeared in the
' South Australian Eegister.'
AN INTERVIEW WITH LORD BRASSEY
' A representative of the " South Australian
Eegister " boarded the " Sunbeam " On Tuesday
evening. Lord Brassey very kindly allowed him
self to be interviewed, and the substance of the
conversation is given below : — 
THE BRITISH COLONIES
Object of ' My expedition,' said Lord Brassey, ' has been
the voyage an un(jerta]img long meditated. I had for a long
time wished to come out and see the colonies.
Acquisitions -of countries inhabited by other- races
of men sometimes bring us reluctant and unwilling
subjects, and are then sources of weakness rather
than of strength. But when we turn to the
children of our own race, whose hearts beat
warm in sympathy with the old country, and who
are one with us in race and traditions, in mem
ories and history, and in associations, it is quite
different. We have under our flag loyal and
united citizens, who are sources of strength. I
think the statesmanship of England in future
should consist in - cultivating a near and abiding

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE

friendship with the colonies. Sir Eobert Stout's
article in a recent number of the "Nineteenth
Century " presents, I think, an excellent idea of
the course which the statesmen of the mother
country should take towards the colonies. With
the general idea in view which I have indicated, I
am now paying a visit to the Australian colonies.'

DEFENCE OF THE EMPIRE
' What about federation for offensive and
defensive purposes, my Lord ? ' 'I consider we Federation.
must go forward in that direction, but it naturally wouid
involves a contribution to a common purse ; and involve
taxation involves representation ; and representa
tion of colonial countries involves, as Sir Eobert
Stout pointed out, an important modification, and,
I believe, a wise one, in the foreign policy of Eng
land. We cannot expect that the colonies will
associate themselves with the mother country in
a policy of interference with the affairs of Europe.
They would associate with us, I doubt not, in a
policy in which they have a common interest.
For instance, the colonies may be presumed to
have a common interest in the retention of India.
They have begun and are likely to carry on a
rapidly increasing trade with India. They would
not like to see the country pass under a foreign
flag, and would probably assist us in defending it.
English statesmanship should be directed towards

8 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Thecolonialcontingent in the
Soudan

the advancement of movements that are of com
mon advantage to all parts of the Empire.'
' But your lordship does not regard the Soudan
war as affecting the colonies ? ' ' No ; but they
came to the front in the Soudan question owing
to the kindly affection which they bear to Eng
land. They thought that we were being rather
hardly used by the Eussians on one side and the
French on the other, and in a most generous way
they came to our rescue. The colonial contingent
to the Soudan had a moral effect far beyond the
presence of a certain number of stalwart soldiers
in the field.

AUSTRALIAN HARBOURS
Defence of ' The defence of harbours in the Australias was
harbours a subject about which the home authorities had
most competent advice from Sir William Jervois
and others. The question remains as to finding
men to man these defences. Take, for instance,
King George's Sound. The colony of Western
Australia cannot be expected to maintain a per
manent force. The place is important to that
colony, but it is also an important strategical
position in regard to communication between
England and the whole of Australasia, and it
would therefore be unfair that the burden of
maintaining the defences should fall on one
colony, and that the poorest yet created on this
fifth continent. You must look to the mother
country to come in and help.

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 9

MANNING THE FORTS
' I should say it would be a wise step in a
position like that of King George's Sound to
employ marines or marine artillery as a permanent M'™lesw
force. It would have the advantage of preventing George's
the necessity of a body of men being detached
from the general service, and becoming deteriorated
in discipline or drill. A scheme might be easily
worked out by which the marines in charge of the
forts should be relieved by a fresh detachment
every twelve months or so from the squadron.
' Here, in the more wealthy colonies, means
will be found for training a sufficient number of
men to fight the guns and man the works. For Volunteers
00 m other
such duty volunteers are particularly adapted, and colonies
do not require the long drilling and solidity of
movement that are demanded of infantry in the
field. COMMUNICATION WITH ENGLAND
' The Intercolonial Eailway is a great achieve
ment, and anything that the mother country can
do now to complete the link between Vancouver's
Island and these colonies or Hong Kong should be
done. We might concur with the desire of the
Canadians, and allow a subsidy to steamers,
INCREASING OUR NAVAL STRENGTH
'I am in favour of a generous policy in
matters of subsidy for postal objects.

10 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Govern
ment sub
sidies to
fast mail
steamers

'A great improvement could be made if the
Government rendered the necessary assistance for
a line of steamers to run between Vancouver and
Australia. Look at the last Eussian scare. Had
we then a line of subsidised steamers readily con
vertible into cruisers running between Vancouver
and Australia, and armaments laid up for them at
Sydney, it would have done a great deal to relieve
the anxiety felt at the time. As it is, we had an
illustration of the benefits of the arrangement for
mail steamers being used as cruisers in the fact
that one or two of the Peninsular and Orient
liners were kept in Australia, and converted into
temporary cruisers. That shows the value of the
system in connection with defence here.

Naval
Volunteers

Success of
the move
ment at
home

NAVAL VOLUNTEER FORCE
' As I look forward to the gradual completion
of the defensive arrangements for the principal
ports in Australia by means of the harbour flotilla,
so I think it will be very important to give every
encouragement to the Naval Volunteer move
ment. If you build flotillas for harbour defence
where there is no permanent force, and no
necessity for such a force, you must fall back upon
volunteers. I am happy to know that the Naval
Volunteer movement in the old country is a
success. I have watched it with the deepest
interest. I have taken the opportunity of seeing
the volunteers at sea in their gunboats as well as

VI. —KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 11

in the batteries on shore. I have made inquiry
about them from the commanding officers, and
have every reason for satisfaction. There is a
certain nautical aptitude ingrained in the British
race which makes them singularly fit to undertake
the duties of auxiliaries to the Navy, and I am glad
to know that the Naval Volunteer movement has
been begun in these colonies. I wish it every
success, for I am sure it will do very much to
strengthen the harbours against any possibility of
attack,' May 25. — We were driven this morning by
Mr. Stock into the heart of the Mount Lofty
range. We had admired greatly the hills when
seen irom below ; we admired not less the views view from
obtained from their commanding heights. The S'
sinuous shores of the Gulf of St. Vincent may be ranse
traced io the horizon. The rich plain is spread
out beneath the hills, with the city of Adelaide,
and its cheerful and far-extending suburbs, in the
middle distance. We lunched at the Belair Hotel,
in a beautiful situation, overlooking a fine and
well-wooded glen. In summer this is a favourite
resort for evening riding parties. We descended
to Glenelg by a well-engineered road, every turn
revealing new aspects of loveliness in hill and
plain. In the afternoon a large party from Glenelg Social
came off to inspect the ' Sunbeam.' We were on thTng
delighted to _ have the opportunity of making ' Sunbeam '

12 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Shift to
Port
Adelaide

The
exhibition
buildings

Other
institutions

friends with a community which had given us a
cordial welcome, and to realise how perfectly we
of the old country and our colonial fellow-subjects
are one people. There was nothing to distinguish
the gathering on board the ' Sunbeam ' this after
noon from a similar assemblage in England. A
three hours' sail across the English Channel
would have brought us to a social life differing in
everything from our own. Eighteen' thousand
miles of voyaging to the Australias had brought
us to a social life in all essentials the same as- that
which we had left behind in England.
May 26. — Under the guidance of Mr. Inglis,
the harbour master, we steamed from our anchor^
age off Glenelg to Port Adelaide.
May 27. — The morning was busily employed
in a visit to the exhibition buildings, to be opened
on June 21, in commemoration of Her Majesty's
Jubilee. The creation of structures of such large
and handsome proportions, many of them being
permanent buildings, and the successful result of
the appeals sent out from the colony for contri
butions of art and manufactures, and raw products
of every description, is no slight achievement for
a colony which, measured by numbers only,
scarcely exceeds a provincial city of the old
country. The main credit is. due to the spirit,
energy, and tact of the present Mayor of Adelaide.
From the exhibition we proceeded to the public
picture gallery, the school of art, tne museum, the
library, and the public news room. In each of

-_VL— KING -GEORGE'S- SOUND TO ADELAIDE 13
these institutions we found a good commencement
of collections, which will be gradually enriched by
the liberality of individuals and the expenditure of
public money in the fullest measure of the available
means. Life in the colonies is very much more
than a sordid struggle for wealth. A resolve is
evident on all sides that progress shall be marked
by culture and by civilisation, not less than by
increase in material wealth.
In the afternoon I had the honour of being in
vited to the annual meeting of the Geographical
Society, by Sir Samuel Davenport. I again borrow
from the ' Australian Weekly Eegister ' a report of
our proceedings : —
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
' The annual meeting of the South Australian Reception -
branch of the Eoyal Geographical Society of graphical0'
Australasia was held at the society's rooms, Way- Society
mouth Street, on Friday afternoon, May 27. Sir
Samuel Davenport (vice-president) occupied the
chair. ' The ordinary business of the meeting having
been concluded, and speeches of welcome to Lord
Brassey having been delivered by the chairman,
and the Hon. E. A. Tarlton, Lord Brassey, who
was received with cheers, said : — Gentlemen, Move a
there is no more business on the paper, but there thanks to
is a resolution which I am sure you would desire m1a11clmn>
to have moved before the proceedings are brought
to a close, and if you will permit a stranger to do

14 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Seaman
ship of
early
navigators CaptainCook

Usefulnessof such
societies

so I will move a vote of thanks to the chairman
for his able conduct in the chair. Perhaps I may
be allowed before moving the resolution to say a
word or two. You have spoken of the voyages
that have been taken on the " Sunbeam " as
adventures not unworthy of those old Northmen
in whose distant fame England and Australia
equally share. I cannot take to myself the credit
of being an adventurer in the same sense in which
our northern forefathers were adventurers. I will .
not speak of the morality of their proceedings, but
simply of the feats of navigation in which they
engaged. Those northern forefathers of ours were
not provided with all the information which geo
graphers and explorers have given to the navigators
of modern days. Consider for a moment the
hazards and the difficulties encountered by Captain
Cook. Going about as I do with all the facilities
afforded by the most recent discoveries in science,
and still finding the art of navigation not made so
very easy, when I look back to Captain Cook, who
entered these seas with no information, and- with
no other resource but his general seamanship and
knowledge of navigation, my admiration of his
achievements grows continually stronger.
' I particularly rejoice that so excellent a society
as this has been established in Adelaide. I under
stand it is a society collateral with others which
exist in the other colonies of Australia. You are
doing a most valuable . work. Exploration must
precede settlement. A previous speaker expressed

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 15
deep satisfaction that the control of this fifth con
tinent had devolved on the Anglo-Saxon race. In
coming to these colonies I touched at two seaports,
which, by the contrast they present, brought forcibly Commer-
to my mind the advantage of a liberal policy in sp^-fty0"
dealing with commerce. The two ports to which
I refer are Singapore and Makassar. Singapore Compari-
dates from some fifty or sixty years at the most, between
but if has grown to be a magnificent emporium of fn^gapore
trade ; and how has it reached that position ? By Makassar
declaring on the very first day that the protecting
flag of England was hoisted that equal privileges
should be given to men of commerce to whatever
nationality they might belong. When we turn to
Makassar — a place which might be not unfairly
compared in regard to facilities of position with
Singapore— we find the Dutch determined to close
it to the enterprise of every foreign nationality.
The result of this selfish spirit is that Makassar
presents all the indications of languor and decay,
while Singapore presents all the indications of
prosperity and wealth.
' Before I sit down, may I refer to a portion
of the report, in which reference was made to
recent spheres of exploration in which the
society is interested? There are some delicate
questions connected with New Guinea. What
I have seen of the world has, tended to im
press on my mind most deeply the conviction
that latitude does fix in a decisive manner a limit
ation, upon the sphere of the Anglo-Saxon race

16 CRUISE. -TO INDIA. AND_ AUSTRALIA IN- 1886-87

Labour in
tlie tropics

Unsuitable
for. Anglo-
Saxon
race

Affection for the
colonies in
Great
Britain

for physical labour. Unless yow have temperate
weather, such as we are now enjoying in Adelaide,
the Anglo-Saxon race cannot undertake outdoor
labour. You may direct and administer it ; you
may. be able to go through figures in the office ;
but to go out into the field to dig and delve is
impossible. Although tropical countries may not
be suitable fox the employment of. the. Anglo-
Saxons as field. labourers,. it does, not follow that
they are not to be of .great benefit — even a direct
benefit — to our own race in regard to the employ
ment of labour. . If we can succeed in developing
these, tropical regions by employing the labour of
the. tropical races, the increasing prosperity will
serve to extend the markets for the products of
Anglo-Saxon labour in countries adapted to our
race. ' A visit to Australia must be a matter of
deep interest to every patriotic Englishman. In
the old country we are becoming more and more
sensible that it is the highest statesmanship to
keep together every limb of the British Empire.
There is an increasing affection to the colonies in
England, and an increasing pride in their ad
vancement. National sentiment and enlightened
self-interest will bind and keep us together, so
that not one limb of the great British Empire
shall be severed.'

The afternoon of the 27th, was not entirely
occupied with the proceedings of the Geographical

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 17
Society. Under the guidance of the acting
premier, Mr. Bray, I had the advantage of seeing
several of the Government offices, and of being visit to
introduced to the officials. Everything bore the ment"1
marks of . order and method in the administration offioes
of government. Mr. Bray kindly showed me the
contents of a strong box in the Treasury, consisting
of some splendid nuggets purchased by the Gov
ernment from the gold diggings at Teetulpa, to be
shown at the Adelaide exhibition.
May 28. — The morning was devoted to a visit
to Port Adelaide, by invitation of the Mayor.
Great efforts have been made to improve the improve-
harbour and its approaches. The docks have been harbour
formed on an estuary of the Gulf of St. Vincent, ^^r°tcks
about nine miles "from its mouth. The tortuous Adelaide
channel has been artificially deepened to twenty-
two feet. On the banks of the river extensive
ranges of timber jetties have been constructed.
The floating-dock has an area of five acres and a
depth of twenty-one feet. A capacious graving-
dock, the property of the Government, is now in
process of enlargement. Every facility has been
provided for all but the largest class of ocean
steamers. There is no difficulty in dealing with
their cargoes by means of lighters.
Having visited the docks we proceeded to a
large corn mill recently completed by Mr. Dunn, Mr. Dunn's
the largest miller in South Australia. The engine
for driving the mills is of English manufacture.
All."the other machinery is from. American, makers,
VOL, IL p

18 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA '.IN 1886-87

The
Sailors'
Home

The Cathedral.
Bishop
Kennion

Visit to
Japanese corvette1 Ringo '

and equally remarkable for ingenuity of design
and perfection in workmanship. The flour, of
South Australia is of the finest quality.
Our visit to Port Adelaide terminated with an
inspection of the excellent Sailors' Home. No less
than one hundred seamen were staying in the
Home. Looking to the high scale of wages,
averaging 61. a month, I was surprised to find so
many men out of a berth.
In the afternoon the Governor had a garden
reception. It was attended by some eight hundred
visitors. In the evening we accompanied the
Governor to the theatre to witness a creditable
performance of ' Human Nature.' The theatre
was crowded with an audience representing the
leaders in the social world of Adelaide.
May 29. — Attended morning service at the
Cathedral. The chanting was worthy of a cathe
dral choir in England. Bishop Kennion is
universally beloved in South Australia. He came
to the colonies from active parish work in Brad
ford, and with experience in dealing with an
industrial population. No man can succeed here,
whether in the social, political, or spiritual sphere,
unless he understands the susceptibilities of work
ing men, and can win their hearts — a task not
difficult where genuine sympathy exists.
May 30. — Lunched on board the Japanese
corvette ' Eingo.' A large party of Adelaide
.notabilities, led by the Governor, snared hi the
hospitable entertainment. The ship appeared in

VI.— KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 19

good order, but the profuse decorations of paper
chrysanthemums, and some stuffed figures, after
the manner of Guy Fawkes, by no means improved
the nautical effect, The crew were small in
stature, but sturdy, well set up, and clean. In the
afternoon we had an ' At home ' on board the
' Sunbeam.' May 31. — Was devoted to an excursion to
Marble Hill, the summer residence of the Governor visit to
in the Mount Lofty range. The distance from h00uvse™01''s
Adelaide is sixteen miles. From the city to the g^j1'16
foot of the hills the road traverses a level plain,
thickly inhabited and of great fertility. On leaving
the plain the ascent is rapid through deep gorges
and between steep hillsides, which in Scotland
would, be clothed with heather, but here are green
with the fresh verdure of the winter rains. By
the roadside, at short intervals apart, are the
simple but comfortable dwellings of small farmers
or dairymen, shaded by graceful willow trees,
watered by running brooks, and surrounded by
well stocked gardens. These little homesteads
had an air of easy independence which it was truly
delightful to see. They presented the ideal stan
dard to which it is so desirable to raise our agri
cultural labourers at home, and which, alas !
could only be reached through emigration on a
scale which it is impracticable to attempt.
Marble Hill stands at an elevation of 2,300 feet, site of the
on a projecting buttress of the Mount Lofty range.
The terrace in front of the house is on the .edge
c 2

20 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Themunicipalbuildings

Address to
the Cham
ber of
Commerce

of an almost precipitous slope. The view extends
over the Gulf of St. Vincent, whose shores can be
followed from Glenelg, round the head of the Gulf
to the hills of the Cape Yorke peninsula. The
hills extend to the east and west as far as the eye
can reach, descending into the plain in a succession
of sharp ridges divided by valleys broad and deep.
A forest of Australian gum trees clothes the
steepest slopes, and in the valleys presents an un
broken mass of evergreen foliage.
On our return from Marble Hill we stopped at
a delightful country house, Morialta. The view is
lovely. The grounds are planted with our English
trees, which seemed to have flourished very satis
factorily under an Australian sky.
June 1. — We lunched with the Mayor, Mr. E.
T. Smith. The luncheon was followed by a visit
to the municipal buildings. They are worthy of
a goodly city. The council chamber is hung with
portraits of the fathers of the colony. The large
hall is of handsome proportions and furnished
with a fine organ, which was magnificently played
by Professor Ives, of the University.
The visit to the Town Hall was followed by an
address to the Chamber of Commerce. The pro
ceedings were reported in the ' Evening Journal '
of June 2 : —
' The hall of the Chamber of Commerce was
crowded on Wednesday afternoon, it having been
announced that Lord Brassey would deliver an
address. The audience included most of the

VI.— KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 21
prominent merchants of the city, and others
interested in commerce, and Dr. Kennion, the
Anglican Bishop of Adelaide. Mr. A. W. Meeks
presided. ' Lord Brassey, who was received with cheers,
said : — Your Chairman did not give me any infor
mation as to the kind of subject which I should
address you on, but I presumed that as I would
have to meet the Chamber of Commerce it was
possible that you would be most interested in the
labour question. CHINESE OR COOLIE LABOUR
' The policy to be pursued by the Government The labour
of this colony in relation to the admission of ques lon
Chinese or coolie labour into the Northern Terri
tory is, I understand, among the pressing subjects
of the hour. Approaching the subject without
prejudice or bias, it does not seem difficult to
determine the principles by which the action of
the State should be guided. If we have faith in
the superior qualities of our own people we shall
do well, even at the cost of considerable delay in
material development, to reserve for our own race
those parts of the country in which they can
succeed, in which they can not only labour, but
preserve and perpetuate from generation to gene
ration the qualities which have made them great.
While the policy seems clear in relation to regions
adapted to the physical qualities of . our own race,
it seems not less clear for the regions beyond. To

22 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
refuse the aid of the tropical populations for
opening up the resources of countries where the
Anglo-Saxon race cannot perform manual labour,
and still less establish a permanent settlement, is
not to advance, but seriously to injure the true
interest of this colony. By opening up portions
of your northern territory with imported labour, a
new outlet will be afforded for the investment of
your capital and a new market created under your
own control for the sale of your manufactures.
THE RELATIONS OF LABOUR AND CAPITAL
Labour and ' I pass to another subject which must be dealt
capi a with, not by legislation, but by mutual good feel
ing and by common sense. Wherever business
is carried on upon a large scale, difficulties must
in the nature of things be anticipated in the
relations between labour and capital. Each of
these elements in the operations of industry may
be helpless without the other, but when we pass
from the stage of production to the appropriation
of profits the conflict of interests is inevitable.
Strengthened by the experience in the old country,
I would earnestly recommend for all your larger
Courts of trades voluntary Courts of Arbitration and Con-
Arbitration ....
oihation. If we go back to that dark time in
England which followed the close of the long
struggle with Napoleon, the hostility of classes
was seen in all employments, and in none was it
more conspicuous than in the collieries. A happy

¦VI^KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 28
change has passed over the spirit of the scene.
Nowhere has the method of arbitration been more
successful than in Durham and Northumberland.
A scale of wages for miners has been agreed upon,
varying with the price of coal, and arbitrators
have been found to apply the scale to the condi
tions of the time, in whose justice employers
and employed have implicit confidence. Among
these valuable men Mr. David Dale is an eminent
example. He and other men of his high stamp
and quality — men such as Eupert Kettle, Mun-
della, and Frederic Harrison — occupy a truly
noble position in relation to labour questions.
They have won the confidence of the masses, not
by truckling to prejudices, not by disavowing the
sound and well-tried rules of political economy,
but by listening and by explaining with unwearied
patience, by showing a sincere sympathy with the
working classes, and by taking a deep interest in
their welfare. The mention of these distinguished
names leads me to the adjustment of difficulties
by Courts of Conciliation. They may be described Courts of
• . . . . • o -i -i « Concilia-
as committees consisting ot equal numbers of tion
employers and workmen, appointed to meet at
frequent intervals; and to discuss in a friendly
open way, and on terms of perfect equality, all
the questions in which there is a possibility of a
conflict. The practicability of the plan has been
proved by experience. It is impossible to exag
gerate its good effects. By frequent and friendly
meetings knowledge is acquired on both sides

24 CRUISE -TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
which could be gained in no other way, and sus
picion is changed to sympathy. I hope that no
bad influences of false pride on one side, or of
unmerited distrust on the other, will deter the
employers and the employed of South Australia
from rapidly bringing into operation the excellent
method of averting disputes which Courts of
Conciliation both in England and on the Continent
of Europe have never failed to provide.
FREE TRADE AND PROTECTION
Difficulty ' Free trade and protection are topics which
question wide-spread depression has thrust info prominence
of late. The present Government in England, in
deference to the demands of Protectionists,
appointed a Eoyal Commission. Its members
were the representatives of conflicting views, and
after an exhaustive inquiry they separated without
changing the opinions with which they entered
upon their labours. We may draw the inference
that the subject is not quite so simple as the
most earnest partisans in the controversy would
wish us to believe. For the United Kingdom I
am a • convinced Freetrader. I admit that the
old country, where half the population subsists on
imported food, which must be paid for in exported
goods, is not on all fours with a colony capable
of producing in abundance all the necessaries of
life for a population infinitely more numerous
than at present exists within its borders. But

VI.— KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 25
while the conditions are different, the fact remains Advan-
that under a protective system customers are free trade
precluded from buying in the cheapest market,
agriculture is heavily charged for the benefit of
a less important interest, and labour artificially
diverted from those spheres of industry in which
it might be employed to the greatest advantage.
Certain it is that cycles of commercial depression
would not be averted, but rather prolonged and
aggravated by a policy of protection. Impressed
with the weight of evidence on this point, the
recent Eoyal Commission of Trade declined to
recommend protection as a panacea for commercial
depression in the United Kingdom, and I hesitate
to recommend it to the Chamber of Commerce
in Adelaide. While, however, I would deprecate
the, imposition of burdensome import duties for
the purposes of protection, I fully recognise that
moderate import duties are necessary as a means Necessity
of raisingrevenue. The first duty of every Finance duties foi-
Minister is to obtain an income for the State by revenue
the methods which are the least irksome to the tax
payers. In new countries, not exporters of manu
factured goods,: import duties are universally found
to be the least irksome form of taxation. If under
a moderate tariff industries- are established earlier
than would be possible without some protection,
the incidental advantage is secured of varied em
ployment for the people. Were all to depend on
the same pursuit or the same industry, an un
favourable season or a fall in price may cause a

26 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN -1886-87

general-depression. There is less risk of universal
melancholy and decline when the public wealth
is derived from various and independent sources.
My conclusion is against import duties on a high
.scale, levied, as in the United States, for the pur
pose of exclusion. I recognise the necessity in
certain circumstances for the imposition of import
duties on a moderate scale for the purposes' of
revenue. ¦• -
EDUCATION
' I have one more remark to offer in connection
with the labour question. Among the many
gratifying things which I have seen in your
colony, nothing has exceeded your system of
education. I congratulate your people, and I
honour your Government for their efforts in the
cause. It may not, however, be superfluous to
refer to that tendency to look disparagingly on
manual labour, which is so frequent and fatal a
result of the very perfection of educational work.
Education may become a curse rather than a boon
Recogni- jf ^ relaxes that physical energy which in all corn-
manual munities, and especially in a new country, is the
indispensable condition of progress. It.haabeen.
truly said by the poet Browning : —
The honest earnest man must stand and work, -
The woman also — otherwise she drops
At once below the dignity of man,
Accepting serfdom,
I count that Heaven itself is only work
To a surer issue.

VI. — KING. "GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 27

Society must take to itself the responsibility for the
preference given to clerical over mechanical employ
ments. We have not done our duty in giving to
our skilled workmen that social recognition which
is their due. But I am happy to say that in the
old country we are decidedly in the way of amend
ment. The return of working men in greater
numbers to the House of Commons has been pro
ductive of much good in a social point of view.

CONCLUSION
' In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to
the occasion to dwell for a few moments on the
influences of honest trade in raising the standard influence
of civilisation and elevating the character of men. m con>S y
The prosperity of commerce depends on intelli- merce
gence, on industry, but above all on character.
Cleverness may sometimes win a stroke. There
have been financiers in the city of London whose
career might have been painted in the language
applied by Earl Eussell to Mirabeau — " His mind
raised him to the skies ; his moral character
chained him to the earth. ' ' I can quote no instance
in which men of this stamp have achieved an
enduring success. It is not the men whose craft
and cunning people fear, but the men in whom
they trust and whom they love who in the end
succeed. It is the office of commerce to give
to the world perpetual illustrations of the homely

28 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-S7
but ennobling truth that honesty is the best
policy. Commerce puts before those engaged in
it many temptations. The good man of business
must rise superior to them all, and thus it is that
in his life and work he can do so much to com
municate advantages, to advance material welfare,
and to raise the tone of morals. Such, and not
less, is the mission of the merchant and the trader.
For myself, I am proud to know that I am the
son of a contractor for public works, whose good
reputation was the best part of the heritage which
descended to his sons.
Phiiii s ' ^r" ^" ^" PnuaPs> m moving a vote of thanks
to Lord Brassey for his able address, said that in
a small community like this there was always a
diversity of opinion in respect to questions of
great moment, and it was a great advantage to
them to have a gentleman of such wide experience
and great knowledge as Lord Brassey to give them
the benefit of his views on such matters.
Mr. ' The Chief Secretary (Hon. D. Murray, M.L.C.)
seconded the motion. He was sure that if Lord
Brassey had been able to give them the time to
express his views on how the products of the
different parts of the world were likely to benefit
the commerce of the colonies, they would have
listened to him with pleasure, and derived great
benefit from his remarks.'
My visit to the Chamber of Commerce was
followed by an interview with the representatives

Murray

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 29
of the Federated Seamen's Union, who came on
board the ' Sunbeam ' in the evening.
June 2. — Attended the opening of the session Opening of
of the South Australian Parliament. The cere- Australian
mony was conducted with dignity. On a small M iamen
scale all the features of similar proceedings at
home were reproduced. The official and military
array included the Governor and his A.D.C., in
full dress, a mounted escort of Yeomanry, in
uniform resembling our Dragoons, a guard of
honour at the entrance to the legislative chambers,
with a band playing ' God save the Queen,' and
the officers of the two houses in their professional
robes. In the afternoon I returned to the ' Sunbeam,'
and settled down for the passage to Melbourne.
Before bidding farewell to South Australia, a few
particulars of a general character may be added.
The proclamation of the Province took place on
December 28, 1836, on a spot near Glenelg, where
the event is recorded by an inscription on an un
adorned wooden tablet. South Australia has a
population of some 314,000, a public debt of Extent of
20,000,000Z., and a revenue of 2,309,0002. The l^traiia
imports and exports approximately figure at five
and a half millions each. To the territory origin
ally assigned, a great addition was made in 1863,
by extending the boundary to the northern coast
line. The total area is 578,000,000 acres, of which
11,000,000 acres have been alienated. The addi
tion of the Northern Territory has thrown a heavy

30 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Effect of task on the Government. It has increased ex-
Northern . penditure, with no immediate prospect of return.
Territory -^ jiag created for ^e coionv the ambition to
connect their northern shores with Adelaide by a
railway which will cost 11,000,0007, It has raised
questions as to admission of Chinese labour and
other important points which are not easy of solu
tion for the working population, with whom, as
electors, the decision rests, and who have slender
means of gaining information on the requirements
of a country two thousand miles away.
The most settled parts of the country are the
plain interposed between the sea and the Mount
Lofty range, and the wide plains which border on
the waters of the Eiver Murray. The central
portion of the colony is an arid district. To the
north, as I was assured by Mr. Lindsay, the
Fertility of enterprising explorer, the rainfall is abundant and
south the soil fertile.
In recent years the colony has passed through
Depression a severe depression. Wheat, its staple product,
drought has fallen in value, and the deficiency in the rain
fall has seriously diminished the quantity raised.
The wheat of South Australia is excellent in
quality, but the yield per acre may be taken at
seven bushels, as compared with eleven for India,
while the cost of cultivation in the latter country
is considerably less than in Australia. Wool has
improved in price, but the flocks have suffered
seriously from the prolonged drought. Copper,
formerlv a yaluable mineral resource of South

VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 31
Australia, has fallen so much in value that it no
longer pays to work the mines. The prospects improved
are now improving. The rainfall this winter has Prospec s
been abundant. Anew goldfield has been opened
at Teetulpa, and at the Broken Hill mine and its
vicinity whole mountains of silver ore have been
discovered. "
The city of Adelaide is admirably situated on City of
the banks of the Eiver Torrens. The beauties of
its scenery have been already described. By the
river side a fine park has been formed, dividing
North Adelaide from South Adelaide, and on the
outskirts of the city a wide belt has also been
reserved, thus completely surrounding it with a
space which will be converted by the gradual
expenditure of money into a beautiful park. The
main streets are broad and handsome. They are
laid out rectangularly. Several fine squares have
been formed in the heart of the city. On the
East Park Lands is a race-course, and in the
North Park Lands a fine cricket ground has been
formed. A system of railways, of which 1,063 miles are Railways
completed and 718 miles are in construction, has
been created by the Government at an expendi
ture, met by loans, of 7,295,1022.
Education has been provided by the State with Education
a lavish hand. : We visited an infant school at
Adelaide. Buildings, teachers, and children bore
the evidence of 'Successful effort, and of the wise
generosity of the Government in laying the sure

32 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
Generosity foundations of an advanced civilisation. The
mentln™ public spirit of which so many examples are ex-
mdividnais hibited by prosperous colonists has been eminently
marked in connection with education. Gifts to
Adelaide University of 20,0002. from Sir Walter
Hughes, of 20,0002., and again of 10,0002. from Sir
Thomas Elder, and of 6,0002. from J. H. Angus,
attest the munificence of individual colonists and
their liberality for public objects. The same
enlightened spirit is shown in matters relating to
the material development of the colony. The in
troduction of the vine and the olive, and the
diffusion of a knowledge of the art of preparing
wine and oil have been mainly due :to the enterprise
and the intelligent observation of men like Mr.
Hardy and Sir Samuel Davenport. The breeding
of horses has been similarly advanced by Sir
Thomas Elder.
In walking through the smaller streets and the
outskirts of Adelaide, it was pleasing to . see the
Cottages iong rows 0f tidy cottages built of wood, oner
storied and each surrounded by its little patch of
garden. These dwellings are generally the
property of the ordinary labourers and artisans.
How different their lot from that of the crowded
denizens of our great cities !
Defences of The defence of South Australia has not been
Australia neglected. The military forces comprise —
Officers Men
Permanent Artillery . . .2-45
Militia— -CaValry ¦-.- .-'¦¦-.-- -,-• -6 60 : „

VI.— KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 33

~

Officers

Men

Field Artillery

6

75

Garrison Artillery .

6

120

Infantry . .

. 40

630

Medical Corps

6

15

Militia Reserve .

6

120

The permanent defences comprise : —
Volunteers —
Mounted Infantry . . 8 120
Infantry . . . .75 1,200
Fort Glanville : Two 20-ton 10-in. R.M.L. guns
Two 64-pr. R.M.L. guns
Fort Largs : Two 12-ton 9-in. R.M.L. guns
Two 80-pr. R.M.L. guns
The forts were built under the advice of Sir
William Jervois. Another battery is proposed
near Glenelg.
An inspection of the 'Protector ' was the last The 'Pro-
incident of my visit to Adelaide. The ' Protector ' eo 01
is a gunboat, built by Sir William Armstrong &
Company, powerful for harbour defence, and
capable of cruising. The armament includes one
8-inch and four 6-inch B.L. guns, with four quick
firing guns.

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE
June 2. — The wind blowing strong from the
north-west we proceeded down the gulf under
reefed canvas. In the afternoon the wind shifted
to the south-west, increasing to a fresh gale with
heavy squalls. We determined not to proceed
to sea under such unfavourable conditions. The
VOL, II. D

Proceed

34 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
Lay-to sails were closely reefed, and we lay-to for the
night under the shelter of Kangaroo Island.
June 3.— The weather improved rapidly after
midnight. At daylight all plain sail was set. At
nine we cleared Backstairs Passage, the eastern
approach from the ocean to the harbour of
Adelaide. On reaching the open water, the
weather rapidly ' chan'ged. In the afternoon we
Experience were overtaken by a gale from the south-west.
west gala We kept too far out to sea to make any prominent
landmarks, but we were fortunate in being able to
fix the ship's position by observations. Without
this check on the dead reckoning we should
scarcely have ventured to run before the gale
towards the dangerous reefs and outlying rocks at
the western entrance to Bass's Straits. The gale
continued with unabated violence through the
night of the 3rd and through the following day.
At sunset on June 4 we were overtaken by a
furious squall. At 11 p.m., running at the rate of
eleven knots, we obtained soundings with Sir
William Thomson's invaluable instrument at a
Make Cape depth of sixty fathoms. At midnight we made
the light on Cape Otway, and when our exact
distance was obtained by bearings, we found that,
strong as the wind had been from the westward,
we had experienced no current setting to the east
ward. After rounding Cape Otway, the wind drew
round to the north-west, and blew with increasing
force. Steering for Port Phillip we were under a

VH. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE

35

weather shore, protected from the heavy seas
which were sweeping the southern coast of
Australia. At 9 a.m. on the 6th we took a pilot on board.
With a favourable gale and a flood tide, running
at seven knots an hour, we dashed swiftly between
the heads into the smooth waters of Port Phillip. Enter Port
The long line of sandy beach, and the cliffs and
hummocks on which are erected the lighthouses
and signal station, presented a wild and weird
scene on this stormy morning. While running
for Hobson's Bay we did the distance of twenty-
two miles from the Pile Light to Williamstown in
one hour and forty minutes.
Analysis op Log Analysis of
Adelaide to Melbourne log

Distaxc-i;

Position*

AT SfOOX

Date

Rail

Steam

Latitude

Longitude

1887

1
June 2
5
14
Sailed from Adelaide
., 3
103
—
36- 6 S.
138-23 E.
., *
200
—
38-47 S.
140-55 E.
,. »
225
—
38- 8 S.
144-48 E.
„ 6
29
—
Arrived at Melbourne
l
June 7. — Accompanied Sir Henry Loch to the Melbourne
opening of Parliament. The ceremony was con
ducted with becoming dignity. In the evening-
attended a banquet, an account of which I give as Attend a
reported in the Melbourne ' Daily Telegraph : ' — banquet
' To celebrate the Jubilee of Her Majesty
36 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Queen Victoria, the members of the Public Service
of Victoria decided to hold a banquet. This they
did in the Athenaeum Hall last night, when a
most brilliant assemblage gathered to do honour
to Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen, on the
occasion of her attaining the fiftieth year of her
reign. There were present Mr. E. L. J. Ellery
(president of the Public Service Association) in
the chair, his Excellency the Governor, Lord
Brassey, Mr. Anderson (Deputy-Master of the
Mint), Dr. Brownless (Chancellor of the Univer
sity), Mr. T. J. Connolly (president of the Austra
lian Natives' Association), and many others. The
toast of the Queen .and of His Excellency the
Governor having been proposed and warmly re
ceived,
sufii^ni1 ' ^*r -E-enry Loch, who was received with loud
Loch and prolonged cheering, said : — I feel deeply touched
and sensible of the very kind and cordial reception
with which the toast of my health has been re
ceived ; and I have very great pleasure in being
here this evening to meet so many members of
the Civil Service of Victoria. When I say the
Civil Service of Victoria I connect it in my mind,
and not only in mind but in fact, with the Civil
Service at home, with the Civil Service through
out the vast empire over which our good Queen
reigns. For we all are civil servants of the Queen
— and I think Englishmen ought to be proud of
the high reputation which the Civil Service of the
empire holds in the estimation of all the nations in

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 37

the world. There are many here who will endorse
my opinion that that Service is the backbone of Work of
the country. It enables the work of the country service
to be carried out. It ensures two essentials — it
enables the fullest information to be supplied to
the Government of the day with regard to the
various important departments to which they be
long ; a'nd ensures a certain continuity in the
general prosperity of the internal government of
the country, which is an essential for its happi
ness and prosperity. We have amongst us to
night a gentleman of eminence (Lord Brassey),
who has come to visit this and other colonies,
coming with a strong desire, as I have every
reason to believe, to cement the feelings of attach
ment which bind the mother country and the
colony together, and I am sure he will receive a
cordial welcome at your hands.
' Lord Brassey said that before he proceeded Speech of
to say a few words for the purpose of recommend- Brassey
ing the important toast of " The Public Service,"
perhaps they would allow him, as coming from
the old country, to say what deep gratification he
felt in witnessing the warm manifestations of
loyalty which were to be seen in the Jubilee in
this colony on every side. The sentiment of
loyalty to the throne, and to the gracious lady who
for fifty years and through many vicissitudes had
filled the throne so well, was one of the many links
which bound together the widely scattered but,
he hoped, deeply and strongly united members of

38 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

the British empire. He continued : — I might well
have shrunk from undertaking to propose an im
portant toast this evening. I did not do so,
because I desire to omit no opportunity of testify
ing to the deep interest which every thoughtful
Englishman, which every Englishman who has
shared any degree in the responsibilities of govern
ment, must feel in the welfare of the colonies. In
the moral and material progress of this great and
growing colony, the Civil Service, it is needless to
say, must play a great part. The sense of honour,
the devotion to duty, the efficiency of the Civil Ser
vice, is of supreme importance in a country governed
by ministers dependent on parliamentary majorities .
Pariiamen- The voice of the people, to which even Parlia-
tary go- r L '
vemmeut ments must bow, does not always speak in the
same accents. It does not always approve the
same policy. It does not always choose the same
men. Having at its disposal many candidates for
employment, the people do not unwisely make
choice of different men for different occasions.
The result of a parliamentary system is that
ministers are fortune's varying favourites. The
tenure of office is short. Great departments are
being constantly entrusted to men who, however
capable of indicating principles and a line of policy,
must depend for execution and administration on
Permanent the permanent staff of their department. Far be
partments it from me to speak slightingly of parliamentary
officials. On the contrary, I hope that parlia
mentary office may be more and more the ambition

VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 39
of the best men in the colonies, as it is at home.
Far be it from me to speak slightingly of the in
vigorating influences from without which are ex
ercised by the Press and by public opinion. But
my duty on the present occasion is to speak of
the Civil Service. And speaking in Victoria from
my experiences at home, I desire to pay my hearty
tribute to the eminent abilities which here, I am A tribute
sure, not less than at home, are often employed civil
in the public service, for a slender reward in money, Servioe
and with little stimulus from the hope of personal
fame. The minister stands conspicuous. All his
deeds are chronicled. When all goes well he re
ceives perhaps more praise than he deserves, and
when the tide turns against him he receives un
merited blame. In my service at the Admiralty
I had experience of both. The Civil Service is
not stimulated by the same hopes or the same
fears, and the fact that such excellent work is
done, by men whose duties are often monotonous
and obscure, is a claim on the gratitude of the
public. I am aware that your chairman to-night
is at the head of a great scientific institution not
connected with the general administration of the
Civil Service. His presence in the chair is another
proof of the wide extent of the duties which in
every department must be undertaken by the
government of a civilised country. As a country
advances it demands not less but more from its
government. Education in elementary subjects
expands to literature, to art, to science. I am

40 CRUISE TO INDIA AND. AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
glad that one noble branch of science, one to which
we navigators are above all men indebted, has
been entrusted in this colony to an eminent man,
whom it is a great pleasure to me to have the
opportunity of connecting with this toast.'
On June 9 I went to Geelong in the ' Sunbeam '
to meet Lady Brassey. The distance — nearly forty
miles — will give some idea of the wide extent of
Port Phillip Harbour. From Geelong the journey
to Ballarat is accomplished by railway in less than
Visit two nours-
Baiiarat Ballarat is the second city in Victoria, and is
in the centre of the richest gold-mining district in
the world. It has a population of more than
30,000. Its public buildings, counting-houses,
shops, and streets are the external indications of
a high degree of prosperity. The park, recently
formed round a natural lake of considerable ex
tent, affords a charming place of recreation.
Goldmines The yield of gold since its first discovery in
m Victoria .... J
Australia is estimated at 300,000,0002. Of this
total Victoria has contributed seven-tenths. The
present output is from 700,000 to 800,000 ounces
per annum. Gold is obtained from alluvium and
from quartz rock. The alluvial workings on the
surface were soon exhausted. Those now worked
are the beds of ancient rivers, and can only be
reached by the ordinary methods of mining. We
visited the Midas, one of these alluvial mines. The
operations are carried on under the supervision of

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 41

a lady, who has provided most of the capital, and
a large share of the technical skill required. The
results under this novel system of administration
give satisfactory promise.
On our return from Ballarat we remained a
day at Geelong. It is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, Geelong
well situated at the head of the western arm of
Port Phillip Bay. The distant views are extremely
fine. The town has streets and buildings far be
yond what we should find in a European city of
the same size. The Botanical Gardens are on the
scale of a park ; the fern houses are a great feature.
The Mayor and the municipality are proud of their
town and its people. They assured me that the
education, both of mind and body, in Geelong has
produced results not rivalled in Australasia. In
every town of the colonies the best preacher, the
best lawyer, the best doctor, the most thriving
merchant, the best cricketers and football players,
with rare exceptions, hail from Geelong.
We made another excursion from Melbourne
on June 14, to attend the opening of the railway
connecting the district of Mount Gambier, in South
Australia, with the direct line from Adelaide to
Melbourne. We travelled to Wolseley by the Excursion
ordinary train, the journey occupying from 4 p.m. ° ° se ey
on June 14 until an early hour on the following
morning. At Wolseley we waited several hours
for the special ' train from Adelaide, bringing Sir
William Eobinson and the members of the Govern
ment who were to assist at the opening.

42 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

The delay afforded an opportunity for a walk
The town round the place. It is a scattered hamlet — a
colonial city in its first stage, with all the institu
tions of the future represented in miniature and
in the rough. A church, a school, an institute, a
post-office, already exist. The present buildings
are wooden sheds of scanty proportions. In less
than a generation they will be replaced by impos
ing structures in stone. The roads and streets,
which are now traced only on ambitious plans,
will rapidly be formed. The dwelling-houses of
Wolseley are of the corrugated iron so extensively
used in Australian building, combined with other
materials of a still more temporary character.
Canvas in many instances supplies a shelter, until
the selector can afford to build in wood or iron.
Pioneers of The pioneers of colonial development have
tionlllsa nee^ °-- hardihood and energy. They must scorn
delights and live laborious days. They must not
succumb to the heats of an Australian summer.
They must live frugally and temperately,
If the pioneer of civilisation in' unsettled
countries leads a life which is rude and laborious,
Advan- he has his consolations. He commands in abun-
theroionist dance food, clothing, and all the primary neces
saries of life. He has cheap and good education
for his children. He has the glorious sense of in
dependence. He may have many hazards and
reverses — loss of stock, failure of crops, and all
the thousand ills of an agricultural career ; but in
the long run some measure of prosperity is assured

VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 43
to men who will work hard, and resist the tempta
tions incidental to a rude existence.
Our friends from Adelaide arrived at three in
the afternoon, and after travelling some sixty miles
in their pleasant company, through an almost un
inhabited country, we reached Mount Gambier at Go on to
a late hour in the evening. The village children Gambier
were assembled at every station through which we
passed. The National Anthem was lustily sung,
and in the darkness of the night Sir William
Eobinson made well timed speeches to an invisible
auditory. June 15. — Mount Gambier is a pleasing town The town
of 5,000 inhabitants, in the centre of a district of
rich volcanic soil, thrown up over a sandstone
formation by the eruptions of a former period,
when the surrounding mountains were active
volcanoes. The two principal craters are now
filled with lakes of great depth, appropriately
named, from their beautiful colouring, the Blue
Lake and the Green Lake. The scene recalled
the charming passage by W. D. Howells : — ' A de
licious freshness breathed from the lake, which,
lying so smooth, faded into the sky at last, with
no line between sharper than that which divides
drowsing from dreaming. The colour was a delicate
blue, without the depth of the sea blue, but infinitely
softer and lovelier ' (Their Wedding Journey).
Mount Gambier and its neighbouring summits The neigh-
have been laid out as a public park. The walks
round the ancient craters command beautiful views,

44 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
On the one hand are the lakes, lying still and
smooth in the deep hollows, where in a former age
the most fearful forces of nature were at work.
Looking outwards from the craters a vast and
fertile plain expands on all sides, bounded by the
ocean on the south, and by distant chains of hills
on the north. Here and there the plain is studded
with other cones, as distinctly defined as those of
Mount Gambier, but on a smaller scale.
I will not enter in detail upon all the incidents
Opening of of the opening of the railway. We were greeted
y by the school-children with a stirring rendering of
the National Anthem. The Governor made an
appropriate speech. We travelled a short distance
on the line. We were banqueted in the evening.
I replied for the visitors and preached federation.
In the interval between the opening of the
railway and the banquet, we went out to see a
a run with run with the Mount Gambia drags. The timber
clJ,ga fencing would be thought desperate riding in an
ordinary English hunting-field. The doubles in
and out of a road are decidedly formidable. My
son was mounted on an animal of high reputation,
and, more suo, rode hard.
June 17. — Visited the Wesleyan Chapel at
Mount Gambier. The minister described the ex
cellent organisation which enables him to give
effective spiritual supervision over a wide district.
In the afternoon travelled by special train to Nar-
racoote. Had some interesting conversation on
the land question. From the railway traffic point

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 45

of view monopolies in land were severely criticised. Land
Where tracts of 100,000 or 200,000 acres are in questio"
the hands of a single proprietor, the district does
not progress as in cases where the land is subdivided
into smaller holdings. The large proprietor con
centrates his energies on sheep. The owner of a Objection
small tract finds it pay to give a larger proportion holdings
of his land to arable cultivation. Subdivision of
land encourages population. Monopoly in land
has the contrary effect. If the increase of numbers,
under good conditions as to standard of living, be
one of the aims of government, it follows that con
centration of ownership and occupation is contrary
to public policy. The objection disappears where
satisfactory arrangements are made for letting the
land on liberal terms. In this case the large pro
prietor is a provider of capital, for which he receives
interest in the form of rent, at a lower rate than a
labourer, with slender security to offer, would be
compelled to pay if he were the borrower of money
instead of the hirer of land.
I cannot pass from our visit to Mount Gambia
without recording our grateful appreciation of the
many kindnesses received from all classes : the
large proprietors, the contractors for the railway,
the engineers employed by the Government, old
members of my father's staff, the Mayor, and above
all the ladies of the district. It was most pleasant
to see once more the Governor of South Australia Return to
and our old friends from Adelaide. We returned
to Melbourne on June 18.

46 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

TheVictorian NavalBrigade
force in
1883

Additionsin 1881

By invitation of Captain Fullerton, I inspected
the naval establishments at Hobson's Bay, both
ashore and afloat. I take the following description
of the Naval Brigade at Victoria from a pamphlet
by Captain Brodrick Thomas, E.N., the naval
commandant : —
' In 1883 the Victorian Navy consisted of the
" Cerberus," armour-clad turret-ship, armed with
four 18-ton- M.L.E. guns, and the " Nelson,"
wooden steam frigate, carrying twenty 64-pounder
M.L.E. , two 7-inch 68-pounder M.L.E., and eight
32-pounder smooth-bore guns. These ships were
manned by a permanent force of 122 officers
and men, and a Naval Eeserve, since called the
Naval Brigade, consisting of 200 officers and
men. 'In June, 1884, the gunboats "Victoria " and
"Albert," and the first-class torpedo-boat " Chil-
ders," arrived in Victoria. These gunboats were
built by Sir William Armstrong & Co., and armed
with E.B.L. guns and machine guns of the latest
description. The " Childers " was built by Messrs.
Thornycroft, and fitted to fire 15-inch Whitehead
torpedoes from bow-tubes or air-guns.
' In March, 1884, the " Batman " and " Fawk-
ner," two steam hopper barges, intended to carry
silt from the dredges in Hobson's Bay to sea, ar
rived. These vessels have been specially strength
ened whilst building to enable them to carry a
gun forward. A 64-pounder was mounted on each
on their arrival, but these have since been replaced

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 47
by 6-inch E.B.L. Armstrong guns, and they have
also been supplied with machine-guns. Steel
plating, three inches thick, has been placed on
these vessels' sides, opposite the engines and
boilers, and accommodation has been fitted for
officers and men, and shell-rooms and magazines
built. ' In November, 1885, the " Gannet," a power- 'Gannet'
ful 12-knot steam-tug, arrived, and has been armed
and fitted in the same manner as the "Batman "
and " Fawkner." These three vessels belong to
the Harbour Trust, the Government having the
use of them for the periodical drills afloat and in
case of war.
' In July, 1884, the'-' Nepean" and "Lonsdale," Torpedo-
second-class torpedo-boats, were brought out. They
are each fitted to fire two 14-inch Whitehead tor
pedoes by steam impulse.
' In March, 1886, the " Gordon," 14-knot turn
about torpedo-boat, arrived, fitted with dropping-
gear and Nordenfelt gun, and with shield for pro
tection of the crew.
' In July, 1886, a 12-knot screw steamer, the
"Lady Loch," was launched in the Saltwater The 'Lady
Eiver. She was built for the Customs Depart
ment, and will be equipped with the same arma
ment as the Harbour Trust vessels.
' Of six 6-inch E.B.L. guns which were ordered Breech-
f or naval purposes, four have thus been distributed guns'"8
among the Harbour Trust and Customs vessels,
and it is intended to place another in the stern of

48 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

the "Victoria"; the sixth is at present tempo
rarily mounted in one of the forts.
Council of ' A Council of Defence, consisting of the
Minister of Defence, the Naval and Military
Commandants, the Captain of the Naval Brigade,
the Senior Commanding Officer of Artillery of the
Metropolitan District, and the Senior Command
ing Officer of Infantry of the Metropolitan District,
had been appointed with power to reorganise
the defences, and shortly after the arrival of the
gunboats the reorganisation of the naval forces
commenced.
strength of ' The strength of the permanent force has been
increased to 205 officers and men, and that of the
Naval Brigade fixed at 305.
Ratings ' The ratings of training seamen and naval
apprentices have been established, and by this
means the places of men retired for age, or dis
charged as unfit, have been filled up. The ratings
of gunnery and torpedo instructor, and of torpedo
man and seaman gunner, have been established,
and twelve instructors and thirty-six torpedo men
and seamen gunners have been rated, after having
passed through the same course as is laid down
for instructors &c. in the Imperial Navy.
Torpedo ' A torpedo store has been erected at Williams-
town, and an air-compressing engine and boiler
placed in position. A site for a similar store has
been selected in the neighbourhood of the Heads,
and the air-compressing engine for it had just been
received from England. Large stores and boat

store

VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 49

sheds have been built at Williamstown for naval
purposes, and . torpedo slips and sheds for the
torpedo-boats are in course of construction.
' Drills of every description have been regularly Drills and
and constantly carried out in all the ships, and instruction
special attention has been paid to practical torpedo
work, the torpedo classes, under Lieutenant
Hutchinson, having fired 223 shots with White
head torpedoes at a target, between July, 1885,
and July, 1886.
' A considerable number of men have been
trained as signalmen in the different descriptions
of signalling by day and night. Fleet manoeuvres Mauoeu-
have been carried out to a certain extent, in order tactics
to accustom officers to handle their ships, and to
give them confidence. All the ports in Victoria,
from Portland to Western Port, have. been visited,
some of the vessels being entirely officered and
manned by the Naval Brigade.
' The officers of the Naval Brigade have served Officers
in the mercantile marine, and the captain and all
the lieutenants hold masters' certificates, besides
in most cases being qualified pilots for the ports
of Victoria. These officers are always available
for service, as they now occupy positions in the
Harbour Trust, or other local departments, the
captain of the Naval Brigade being the chief
harbour-master. The petty officers and men are
recruited from the seafaring population of the
-port, many of them having served in the Imperial
Navy,, and a considerable number have also served
VOL. U. E

' 50 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

in the Victorian Navy, and joined the brigade on
being discharged from that service.
Ordinary ¦ The majority of the brigade are employed in
ment the tug-boats, dredges, and other vessels belong
ing to the Harbour Trust, whilst others are
employed as lumpers on the wharves, and the re
mainder in miscellaneous occupations. Physically
they are a very fine body of men, and they are
intelligent, and very amenable to discipline.
' During the Easter cruises, the ships and tor
pedo-boats have been stationed - to defend the
Heads and the South and West Channels, acting
Co-opera- m concert with the forts ; and a system of com-
tion with . .
forts mumcation between ships and forts has been
established, which enables information as to an
enemy's movements, either by land or sea, being
conveyed from one to the other between all parts
of Port Phillip and the military positions on shore.
' Sham engagements between the ships and the
forts, and between one portion of the squadron and
the other, have been carried out, and the officers
boit'61110 °* ^he torpedo-boats have had numerous oppor-
rractice tunities of attacking vessels proceeding at a high
rate of speed, and of becoming acquainted with
the sheltered positions at the entrance to the port,
from which they can rush out to attack an
.advancing foe, or to which they can retire for
safety. -
Practical ' Manoeuvres have taken place by night as well
training . , ~ *¦ jo
as by day in the narrow channels, and the in
genuity of officers and men has been tested in

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 51
resisting the attacks of torpedo-boats, and in
placing obstacles to frustrate or hinder the advance
of an enemy's ships or boats,
' The time occupied in performing evolutions
has been carefully noted, which has created a
wholesome rivalry between the different ships,
and has added considerably to the smartness and
efficiency of the squadron.
' The routine of the Imperial Navy has been
carefully followed, both at sea and in harbour,
and every endeavour has been made to accustom
officers and men to the conditions of active
service.' June 25. — Hospitably entertained at luncheon
by the Victoria Yacht Club. In the evening
I was the guest of the Melbourne branch of the
Imperial Federation League. The proceedings Dinner of
were chronicled in the Melbourne ' Argus ' of peria™'
Monday, June 27. ^gT
The chair was occupied by Mr. G. D. Carter,
M.L.A., president of the Victorian branch. On
his right were the guest of the evening, the
Premier (Mr. Duncan Gillies), and the Post
master-General of Queensland (Mr. M'Donald
Paterson), and on his left the Mayor of Melbourne
(Councillor Cain), the President of the Legislative
Council (Sir James MacBain), Mr. Justice Webb,
and Mr. Nicholas Fitzgerald, M.L.C. The com
pany included a large number of other prominent
citizens, many of them not being members of the
League.

52 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
After the healths of ' The Queen and His
Excellency the Governor ' had been drunk, the
Chairman next proposed the toast of ' Imperial
Federation,' coupled with the names of Lord and
Speech of Lady Brassey. On behalf of the Victorian branch
man, Mr. of the Imperial Federation League, he thanked
Lord Brassey for so cordially accepting their
invitation to that banquet. They had no definite
views at present on the subject of Imperial
federation. The point to which they had got at
present was this, that they desired to see the
empire united as one inseparable whole. When
they remembered that the British Empire oc
cupied about one-seventh of the whole surface,
and about one-fourth of the entire population of
the earth, they would recognise that it was not an
unworthy ambition to desire to belong to such an
empire. On behalf of the Victorian branch of
the Imperial Federation League, and of the colony
generally, he offered a cordial welcome to Lord
Brassey, and trusted that he would carry away
with him pleasant recollections of his visit to
Victoria. Lord Brassey, who was received with hearty
Speech of applause, said : — ' Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen,
Brassey — As the treasurer of the Imperial Federation
League established in London, it affords me the
greatest pleasure and gratification to be your
guest this evening. Our work in the old country
would be of little value unless it were approved
and supported by public opinion in these great

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 53
and growing colonies. Speaking on behalf of the
Imperial Federation League in London, it is
proper that I should say that we have no cut-
and-dried plans which we are anxious to put for
ward. We see the great difficulties which we Difficulties
shall have to contend with in arriving at any tion
solution of the question of federation ; but with
their growth in population, in wealth, and in
resources, we anticipate that we shall see dis
played, more and more, a manly and an inde
pendent resolve on the part of the colonies, not
only to make provision for their own defence, but
to share in the responsibility of the defence of
the united empire ; and as, with your increased
participation in the burdens, you must necessarily
receive an increased share in determining the
policy of the empire, we see looming in the not
far distant future the necessity for some further
approach to a settlement of the problem of f edera- The neces-
tion. We do not desire a hasty solution. We settlement
should deprecate a hasty solution. We believe g*1™011-
that the wisest solution will be of a gradual and
piecemeal character, dealing with circumstances
as they arise, but for wise action we wish to pave
the way by timely and temperate discussion.
Gentlemen, the views of the founders of the
Imperial Federation League were well put in
one of his latest speeches, by a grand statesman
of the old country, Mr. W. E. Forster, the first Mr. w. e.
president of the league. The idea of the per- federation1
manent unity of the realm, the duty of preserving

54 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
this union, the blessings which this preservation
will confer, the danger and loss and disaster
which will follow from disunion, are thoughts
which possess the minds of Englishmen both
here and over the seas. These thoughts are
expressing themselves in deeds ; let this expres
sion continue ; at present it helps our cause far
more effectually than any possible scheme.
' I am not one of those who ever doubted the
The loyalty loyalty of the colonies to Old England — and,
colonies gentlemen, if any Englishmen were in doubt as
to the feeling of the colonies towards the mother
country, the events of the past week in this noble
city of Melbourne would dispel effectually any
uncertainty in that respect. On Tuesday last we
saw your militia march past like a wall, to the
tune of " The Old Folks at Home." That homely
melody conveyed a touching sentiment to the
spectator from the old country. On the following
day a ball was given at Government House, an
entertainment the splendour of which could
hardly have been exceeded in any capital in
Europe. That entertainment owed its character
not merely to the graceful hospitality of the host
and hostess on the occasion, but to the eager
desire of those who were present to seize the
Attach- occasion for showing their attachment to the
ment to the . .
Sovereign Queen, in whose honour and m whose name that
ball was given. On the following day the hall of
your Parliament Buildings, which, by the beauty
of their design and the amplitude of their propor-

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE

tions, express your greatness in the present and
anticipate your growth in the future, was dedi
cated, with a generous spirit of loyalty, to the
name of the Queen. On the evening of the same
day we attended a concert of colossal proportions,
in which on four several and separate occasions
the National Anthem was sung, and on each
occasion with increasing fervour. On the follow- Popularity
ing day 30,000 children were brought together, National
trained to utter the sentiments of their parents in  '"
that National Anthem which they sang so well.
In journeying in some of the remoter parts of this
colony, it was touching to hear the same anthem
sung at every opportunity by the little children,
who are thus early trained in the sentiment of
loyalty. ' If we pass from these momentary incidents of
the week to circumstances of a more permanent
and perhaps more serious character, what are the
conclusions which an intelligent traveller from
the old country may draw, with reference to the
ties which bind the colonies to the mother
country ? If he looks at your society and your
family life, he finds the same manners, the same Similarity
habits, the same ways of viewing circumstances habits of'
and things. Your English tastes are shown in "nd thets
the houses which you build, the clothes which English
you wear, the food which you eat, and in the
goods you buy. The national character of the
Anglo-Saxon race is shown as strongly here as in
the mother country in your spirited devotion to

56 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Advantages of
remaining
united

manly sports and pastimes ; and when we think
of the other ties that bind us — a common faith, a
common literature, the same dear mother tongue
— it seems to me that no other conclusion can be
drawn by the intelligent traveller than this — that
the ties which bind the colonies to the mother
country are stronger than those which any legis
lature or statesmanship could contrive, and that
they are inherent in the innermost life of the
people. Gentlemen, you may call the union
which binds us an empire, you may call it a
federation, you may call it an offensive and de
fensive alliance of the closest kind — you may call
it what you will — the name is of subordinate
consequence while mutual sympathy and senti
ment retain that binding force which, as we have
seen in this Jubilee week, you are so generously
prepared to acknowledge in your relations with
the old country.
' Perhaps I may say a few words on this occa
sion with reference to the mutual advantages
which are afforded by our remaining together as
members of a united empire. There was a time
when the connection was less valued than it is at
present by some of the eminent statesmen of the
old country. Since the days of which I speak
great changes have taken place. The map of
Europe has been reconstructed on the principle of
the recognition of nationalities. The Germans
have made themselves into a nation ; the Italians.
have made themselves into a nation. Our tight

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE

little island is small indeed in area, in comparison
with the great territories of Continental Europe.
It is small in area, but if we and the children from
us — these great English-speaking nations which
have overspread the world — remain united together,
we are the first of the nationalities of Europe.
There are indications that the maintenance of
the unity of the British Empire may be less
difficult than might perhaps in former days have
been anticipated. Science has done much to Made more
shorten distances : it has given us the electric scfencJ
telegraph, an improved and improving steamship,
and railways. As the colonies grow in import
ance, it must necessarily follow that the Imperial
policy will be concentrated more and more upon
objects which are common to them and to the
mother country. The foreign policy will be directed
to the maintenance in security of the communica
tions between the mother country and the colonies,
an object of common interest to yourselves and to
ourselves. Looking forward to a not very distant
time, it is evident that your growth in population
and power will be such that you will have a domi
nant influence in the waters adjacent to your own
shores. Yourrelations with India will become closer Eeiations
and closer. -You will be in a position not less W1 1 ncia
strong than that occupied by the mother country,
and your interest will be as great as that of the
mother country, perhaps, in preventing the hoist
ing of any flag hostile to your own upon the ports
of India. I believe that all the countries that are

58 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

now parts of the British Empire will hold to
gether, because I believe that it will be for their
advantage to do so. Looking at it from the point
of view of a citizen of the old country, have we
not found in the recent movements of commerce
a strong illustration of the maxim that trade
follows the flag ? While other branches of our
Trade with foreign trade have been languishing, the trade with
the colonies has remained flourishing and elastic.
And looking at it from your point of view, there
are some considerations which are obvious. We
lend you our capital on much easier terms than
we would ask if you were under a foreign flag,
and we hold before you in external relations the
shield of a great empire. The advantages of the
present arrangement, from a colonial point of view,
were happily put a short time ago in a speech by
Sir John Macdonald, from which I will ask leave
to quote two or three sentences. Speaking at
Macdonald Montreal, he said : — " We want no independence
on the in- jn this country, except the independence that we
dependence . . .
of Canada is at this moment. What country m the world
have more independent than we are ? We have
perfect independence ; we have a Sovereign who
allows us to do as we please. We have an Im
perial Government that casts on ourselves the
responsibilities as well as the privileges of self-
government. We may govern ourselves as we
please, we may misgovern ourselves as we please.
We put a tax on the industries of our fellow
subjects in England, Ireland, and Scotland. If

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 59

we are attacked, if our shores are assailed, the
mighty powers of England on land and sea are
used in our defence.'
' There may be some who think that the union union of
of the empire cannot be maintained, because it is

youth and
age as

difficult to reconcile the impetuosity of youth £p^d
with the prudence of old age. They think that colonies
you may be inclined to make a rush for an object
in the impetuosity of youth, and that you will
resent the perhaps excessive prudence with which
the mother country holds you back. Upon a wise
view of it, we find in the characteristic qualities —
each quality having, of course, its corresponding
defect — of youth and age, one reason more why
it may be prudent for you, who are young, to
remain in one common bond with the more aged
mother country. The father of the philosophy of
history, Thucydides, has put into the mouth of
Alcibiades a view of this subject which contains a
great truth : — ' Consider that youth and age have view of
no power unless united ; but that the lighter and ^{des
the more exact and the middle sort <5£ judgment,
when duly attempered, are likely to be most effi
cient." I hope that that philosophic view of the
great Greek writer will be illustrated by the wise
policy with which the affairs of the British Empire
may be conducted, by the mutual and combined
influence of the young colonies and of the dear
old mother land.
' I feel grateful to you for having invited me to personal
be your guest on this occasion, and I particularly remarkB

60 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
appreciate the presence of so many eminent men
at your table. They have assembled here not to
pay a compliment to me as an unworthy in
dividual. They have come here to express the
deep interest they feel in the important question
upon which the Imperial Federation League is
engaged. Gentlemen, I shall go back to Old
England deeply touched by the love which I have
seen the people of these colonies show to that
mother country, that dear Old England, whose
greatest pride it is to have been the mother of
mighty nations. I cannot sit down without
acknowledging on behalf of Lady Brassey the
kindness which you have shown in the mention
of her name.'
June 27. — The day opened with the proceedings
described as under in the ' Argus ' : —
visit of < The ladies' committees of the Sailors' Eest
Sailors
Best Com- at Port Melbourne and Williamstown were re-
1 Sunbeam' ceived yesterday forenoon by Lord and Lady
Brassey on board their yacht, the " Sunbeam."
Opportunity* was taken by Mr. Hugh E. Eeid to
thank Lord and Lady Brassey for the great and
practical interest taken by them in the welfare of
seamen. Statistics were given showing the large
numbers of sailors coming here every year, and a
hope was expressed that better and more sub
stantial structures would be provided ere long for
the Sailors' Eests of this port. Lord Brassey,
in reply to Mr. Eeid's remarks, spoke feelingly
of the work done at home by Miss Weston in

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 61
striving to better the condition of sailors. That
lady not only contributed liberally of her means,
but also brought a winning influence to bear on
the sailors, whose best interests she had so much
at heart. Lady Brassey also addressed some
observations to the committees, and took the
opportunity of advocating the cause of the St.
John Ambulance Association, in which she felt a
very deep interest.'
Having given a diary of our proceedings at
Melbourne from the columns of the local Press, I
proceed to make a few observations and to offer General
-. . . . ,, , -i , remarks on
some descriptions ot a general character. Victoria
The Government of Victoria is fortunate in
having in their service a statist, Mr. H. H. Hayter,
who has bestowed rare industry and ability in the
compilation of exhaustive information on the con
dition of the country. The following facts and
figures are taken from a pamphlet he has recently
published : —
The population of Victoria may be estimated Population
-, -, , •-,,. t j. m j. -i and climate
m round numbers at one million, distributed over
an area only slightly inferior to that of Great
Britain. The colony is happy in its climate. The
temperature compares with that of Bordeaux and
Nice, though with far less difference between
summer and winter than is experienced in Europe.
Upon the average, on four days during the year,
the thermometer rises above 100 degrees in the
shade, while on three nights it falls below freezing
point, The ordinary annual rainfall is 26 inches.

62 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Produc
tions

Sheep,
wine, &o.

Biilway system

Growth of
Melbourne

The soil of Victoria is favourable for the
growth of cereals, the produce of wheat being four
teen bushels to the acre. Vegetables and fruit,
both of the temperate and tropical zones, olive
trees, hops, mulberry trees, and the tobacco plant
grow luxuriantly. The breeding of live stock has
attained to great proportions. The flocks of Vic
toria number eleven million sheep, and the wool is
of the finest quality. The production of wine
promises well. In 1883-84 the vineyards covered
an area of 7,326 acres. The wine produced in the
previous season amounted to over 700,000 gallons.
Australian wine commands a ready sale in Europe.
Great pains have been taken to follow the methods
of manufacture as practised in the best wine
growing countries of Europe.
The settlement of the colony has been greatly
accelerated by the policy of retaining the entire
system of railways in the hands of the State. A
Government may prudently push railways into
sparsely inhabited districts, relying on the develop
ment of the traffic in the future, Private enter
prise must look to immediate profits. The great
boon of easy railway communication has been
secured at an inconsiderable cost to the State, the
net receipts being already nearly sufficient to cover
the interest on the loans raised to meet the cost of
construction. Agriculture and gold mining are the primary
sources of that accumulation of wealth of which
Melbourne is the embodiment, Splendid indeed

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 63

is the superstructure which has been reared upon
these foundations. Scarcely fifty years have
elapsed since the first streets of what is now a
great city were traced upon the shores of a deso
late inlet. Yet Melbourne will already compare
with the noblest of our provincial cities. Mel
bourne has this special advantage over cities of
equal population in the old country. It is the
seat of a Government for a flourishing and ad
vancing country, whose public wealth is freely
spent in the erection of handsome public build
ings. Melbourne is built on hilly ground on both
sides of the river Yarra. Its streets are laid out on
the rectangular plan, broken here and there by
handsome squares and extensive parks. The
Botanical Gardens, are unrivalled in any city of the The
New or Old World. They extend over one hun- Gardens'
dred acres. Their situation, on the south side of
the Yarra, in a commanding position above the
city, has been most happily chosen. The undu
lating nature of the ground has offered great op
portunities for landscape gardening which have
been skilfully used. Shrubs are planted in groups.
In each shrubbery the vegetation of a particular
locality, as for instance the islands of the Pacific,
the Eastern Archipelago, and the several colonies
of Australia, is illustrated botanically in the most
instructive and effective manner.
Government House stands in grounds adjacent House of
to the Botanical Gardens. As an official residence g("elnor

64 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALLv IN 1886-87

the building has been specially adapted for the
duties of hospitality. The house overlooks Mel
bourne, and the formation of the ground lends a
peculiar charm to the distant view of the city.
The numerous elevations have furnished admirable
sites for the public buildings, while the formality
of the rectangular plan of its streets is broken by
graceful slopes and frequent changes of level. The
eye follows with delight the windings of the Yarra
through the heart of the town. On its left bank
are the dense groves of Studley Park and the green
slopes of the Botanical Gardens. On its right bank
the streets of Melbourne descend by rapid declivi
ties to its refreshing waters.
Public Melbourne is rich in public buildings and public
institutions. The Houses of Parliament, in pro
cess of construction, contain a central hall of noble
proportions, which was dedicated, on the occasion
of the Jubilee, to the Queen. The chambers occu
pied by the two branches of the Legislature, and
the library, are handsome and convenient for the
discharge of public business. In another fine
building accommodation is provided for the public
library, picture gallery, and industrial museum.
The library contains a fine collection of books, and
is thronged with readers. Throughout the colony
the example of Melbourne is followed, with as
large a measure of liberality as the local resources
permit. No less than 229 libraries and institutes
are established in the towns and. villages. The
study of design and of applied science is encouraged

VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 65
by liberal grants in aid of the numerous schools in
the colony.
The Observatory of Melbourne is adjacent to The obser-
the Botanical Gardens. It has long been in exist
ence, and is maintained in the highest state of
efficiency under the able directorate of Major
Ellery. The great telescope is one of the finest
instruments in the world. Some of the photographs
of the moon taken at Melbourne are said to sur
pass anything yet obtained elsewhere.
Melbourne has a University located in hand- Th-e.University
some buildings. The great hall, built by Sir
Samuel Wilson, is a noble piece of architecture.
A college in connection with the Church of
England, and another in connection with the
Presbyterian Church, are affiliated to the Uni
versity. By letters patent, the degrees in any
faculty, except divinity, are recognised as fully
as those granted in any university of the United
Kingdom. The University is well attended.
Special attention has been given to the training of
students in the medical school.
A branch of the Eoyal Mint was established in The Mint
Melbourne in 1872. Between that date and the
end of 1883, 23,176,000 sovereigns had been issued.
The Municipal Buildings contain a noble hall, Municipal
capable of holding 4,000 persons, and furnished
with a grand organ. It was here that we had the
pleasure of hearing Miss Amy Sherwin, the
Tasmanian songstress, in one of her great concerts.
Among the churches the most remarkable is
VOL. II, F

Buildings

66 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Churches

Melbourne
races

Thesuburbs

the Presbyterian, in the Early English style, built
of stone of the finest quality. A cathedral of the
Church of England is now being built from the
designs of Mr. Butterfield.
Melbourne abounds in the means of amusement.
Cricket and football are much played. The
grounds are equal to anything in London. The
race-course is well situated and well appointed. At
the famous Melbourne Cup meeting, early in
November, 150,000 persons are usually present.
They assemble from every part of Australasia.
The number of fatal accidents is the grave objec
tion to racing as carried out at Melbourne. The
steeplechase course is too severe.
Melbourne is encircled by a group of suburbs,
with a united population considerably larger than
that of the city proper. These suburbs are much
resorted to by the working classes, the greater
majority of whom are the owners of the houses
they occupy. The payment of rent is particularly
repugnant to the working people of all classes in
Australia, and especially to the artisans. They
Housing of generally manage to provide all the accommodation
ing classes they require entirely on the ground floor. In the
rear of the cottages the space is generally sufficient
for a small garden. In the front, the ample circu
lation of air is secured by streets of great breadth.
Facilities for the purchase of freeholds are offered
to working men by numerous building societies,
whose capital is chiefly supplied by the contribu
tions of the working men.

VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 67
HoBson's Bay is the natural harbour of Mel- Hobson's
bourne. It affords ample space for the large fleets shipping,
of merchant-ships, for the most part of heavy datiojafor
draught, which are generally to be found in this
busy seaport. Stevedoring and other occupations
incidental to the shipping trade have drawn a con
siderable population to the shores of Hobson's Bay.
Williamstown, on the south side of the Bay, and
Sandridge, on the north, are connected by railway
with Melbourne, the distance from Sandridge as
the crow flies being little more bhan two miles.
From the Sandridge shore two piers project, 530
and 730 yards respectively, into 20 feet of water.
Vessels of the largest dimensions can lie alongside.
The jetties are fitted with numerous steam cranes
to facilitate the discharge and loading of cargoes.
At Williamstown are several docks and slips. The
principal graving dock is capable of receiving the
most powerful ironclads despatched to these waters.
The dimensions are — length 470 feet, breadth 80
feet, depth 27 feet.
The river Yarra flows into Hobson's Bay. Its The Yarra
shallow winding channel has been considerably
improved by engineering works. Ships of 2,000
tons can ascend the Yarra into the heart of the
city of Melbourne.

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY
June 28. — We had intended to sail in the
morning, but were detained by a dense fog, which
f 2

68 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
Leave did not disperse until daybreak on the 29th. At
9 a.m. the pilot came on board, and we proceeded
to sea. We passed through the narrow entrance
between Port Phillip Heads under a great press of
canvas, with studding sails set alow and aloft, and
with a slashing breeze in our favour. At 5 o'clock
in the afternoon we bade farewell to the pilot.
Proceeding on our voyage with light off-shore
breezes, at daylight on the 30th we made the light
Wilson's on Wilson's Promontory, and three hours later we
Pi-omon- .
tory rounded this southernmost point of the Australian
continent. The promontory is formed by rugged
mountains, 2,000 feet in height, thickly wooded to
their summits with the Australian gum tree. We
passed between the promontory and Eodonto
Island, a conspicuous conical mass of granite,
rising to a peak 1,150 feet above the sea, visible in
clear weather at thirty miles. An archipelago of
islands extends from Eodonto to the north-eastern
corner of the Tasmanian coast.
After rounding Wilson's Promontory steam
was raised, and we pushed on through a calm
which lasted through the night of June 30- July 1,
and was followed by a fresh breeze from the
N.N.W., with squalls of rain. At sunset on July 1
Round we rounded Cape Howe. Making good running
Cape Howe . ° ° D
with fresh, off-shore winds, at dawn on July 2 we
passed through the narrow channel between
Montague Island and the mainland of New South
Wales. As the sun rose a breeze sprang up from
the north-west, and at 10.15 a.m. we were under

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO' SYDNEY ' ' 69

all plain sail, steering nearly due north, keeping at
a distance of about a mile from the shore. It was
interesting to be reminded of the early explorations
of Captain Cook, in the numerous names given by
him, as the first discoverer of this coast, and still
retained. Upright Point, the termination of a
ridge of hills extending to the westward, was so
named from its perpendicular cliffs. To the north
of Upright Point the coast is broken by the deep
indentation of Bateman's Bay and by groups of
picturesque islands. Between Bateman's Bay
and Cape St. George the range of mountains
which runs parallel to the coast of New South
Wales culminates in those remarkable summits
Cook's Pigeon House, Table Hill, and Mount
Sydney, 2,496 feet in height. This group, in the
perfect weather with which we were favoured,
presented a scene of great beauty. At the foot of Beauty of
these hills, skirting the shore, are flat, rich, agri- scenery
cultural lands, extending from Cook's Pigeon
House to Ulladulla, a melodious name derived
from the language of the aborigines of Australia.
At sunset we were close in shore off the lighthouse
on Cape St. George. A signal-station has been cape st.
established at this important landfall, which is in Geor&e
telegraphic communication with Sydney. During
the night we were favoured with a fresh breeze off
the land.
At daylight on the morning of the 3rd we hove The
to off the entrance to Port Jackson, and took a p10^nce to
pilot on board. As we closed with the land the Jackso«

70 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Anchor in
Watson'sBay SydneyHarbour

coast assumed a most striking aspect. The en
trance to Port Jackson is a narrow passage between
precipitous sandstone cliffs, stretching to the south
in a long and massive wall. The morning sun
shone brightly on the face of the rich yellow and
brown rocks, and on the masses of white foam
from the rollers at their base. With an off-shore
wind our pilot ventured boldly in, almost to the
edge of the breakers.
We had hoped to make our entrance into
Sydney Harbour under sail, but the wind had
died away to a calm, the tide was ebbing, and the
pilot recommended steam. With the aid of this
convenient source of power, we reached our
anchorage in Watson's Bay at an early hour.
I give the usual analysis of our log from Mel
bourne : —

Analysis of

DATE1887
June 30
July 1
„ 2
., 3
Total

DlSTAXCl-l

r-OSITIOX AT KOOX

Remarks

log

Sail 145 10 8
113

Steam

Lafcitude

Longitude

143 142 7

South 39-3
37-5035-35

East
146-42149-31 150-30

Rounded Wilson's
Promontory
Rounded Cape Howe
Entered Port Jackson

276

292

Beauty of July 3. — The harbour of Sydney is renowned,
Jackson and on the propitious day of our arrival the fasci
nation of the scene could be appreciated to the
full. The charm of Port Jackson consists in the

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 71

wide extent of its land-locked waters, its many
picturesque islands, the beautiful indentations of
its shores, the imposing position of the city of
Sydney and its suburbs, and the rich vegetation,
picturesque cottages, and fine country residences,
embosomed in trees, which surround the harbour
on every side.
As we steamed slowly up the harbour in the a warm
afternoon, we were met by the Eoyal Naval Artillery
Volunteers in their boats, and received a hearty
welcome. A number of yachts and sailing-boats
accompanied us to Farm Cove, where we dropped
anchor. The shore was lined by thousands of
spectators, who warmly cheered us as we landed.
Sydney is protected from attack by sea by bat- Defence of
teries on the North and South Heads, and on the
principal projecting points inside the harbour.
The armaments, supplied from Elswick, include
two 25-ton guns, mounted en barbette behind
earthen parapets. Both Sydney and Melbourne
are easily defended against an enemy unable to
effect a landing in force. The entrances to the
magnificent harbour, being narrow and of moderate
depth, can be secured by torpedoes, and the
torpedo defence can be effectively protected by
batteries in commanding positions. The spirit
and intelligence of the people may be relied upon
to make good use of their natural advantages.
The city of Sydney is built on a peninsula s.;'e of the
jutting out from the southern shore of Port Jack
son, between Darling Harbour on the west, and

.72 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Farm Cove on the east. The north face of the
peninsula is indented by Sydney Cove. The cir
cular quay surrounding the cove has a depth of
water sufficient to enable the largest ocean steamers
to lie close in shore. The French Messageries
Maritimes, the Orient Company, and the P. and
0. Company are always represented by their finest
ships. The man-of-war anchorage at Farm Cove
offers a striking contrast to the busy scene of com
merce in Sydney Cove, being surrounded by the
green slopes and plantations of Government House,
the Botanical Gardens, and the park-like domain
beyond, extending to Point Macquarie, the eastern
horn of the bay.
Government House, a building in the Tudor
style, commands a glorious view of the harbour.
Attractive The great attractions of Sydney consist in the
views of the • « .. , , » ¦ , • ,-,
harbour views of the harbour from many points m the
heart of the city, in the picturesque undulations
of the site, and in the open spaces, planted with
trees, wisely reserved for air and recreation in the
most crowded quarters. The date of the oldest
part of Sydney is commemorated in the names
Pitt, George, Clarence, and York, by which its
principal streets are designated. The street archi
tecture is irregular and unequal. The most im
posing facades stand side by side with buildings of
meaner character. Eents have been forced up to
a fashionable standard, rarely falling below 1,000Z.
a year. Business must be profitable to bear fixed

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 73
charges on such a scale. The shops are for the
most part excellently supplied.
July 4. — The morning of this day was largely
occupied with interviews with representatives of
the press. In the course of the afternoon we
visited the picture gallery, the Eoman Catholic The picture
Cathedral, and the Cathedral of the Church of gallery
England. The picture gallery is in the Park or
Domain. The interior only of the gallery is
completed, the exterior having been wisely con
sidered the less important portion of the work.
The galleries are spacious and well lighted. The
amount provided by private bequests and public
contributions for the purchase of works of art
has already exceeded 30,000Z. The collection
includes examples of the most eminent men of
the modern English school, selected with excel
lent judgment. These pictures will be a priceless
treasure to the people of this colony.
The Eoman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is Roman
by an eminent disciple in the school, of Pugin. cathedral
Though only partly completed it affords space for
5,000 worshippers. The building is 350 feet in
length, 118 feet wide in the transepts, 75 feet
wide in the nave, and 90 feet in height. The
interior recalls the best features of the old Gothic
cathedrals of Europe. The eastern window, by
Hardman, of Birmingham, is a noble specimen of
modern glass. The Church of England Cathe
dral, also in the Gothic style, is a fine building,

74 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Sydney
branch of
RoyalHumane Society

but of less ambitious proportions. It stands in
the centre of the city.
In the evening we attended the annual
meeting of the Eoyal Humane Society in the
large exhibition building of Australasia. Origin
ally established in Melbourne, its operations have
been extended to the whole of Australasia. The
present meeting is the first held out of Melbourne.
The primary object is the distribution of awards
to all who risk their lives to save their fellow-
creatures. A splendid record of deeds of heroism
was read by the secretary of the society. The
recipients of medals included children oi tender
age and women, whose bravery and presence of
mind fully entitled them to share with men in the
distribution of honours.
July 5. — In walking through the city I
observed with surprise, in certain streets, the
Number of large number of shops occupied by Chinamen.
Looking to the desire so strongly expressed by
the masses to retain Australia for the Aus
tralians, it is difficult to understand how any
business, such as the sale of groceries, or an
employment such as market gardening, should
have been suffered to fall into the hands of the
Chinese. It was sad to notice in the crowds thronging
the streets no inconsiderable number who bore
the marks of penury. Believers in the enticing
theories of Mr. George would find from the
experience of Australians that all the misery in

VIII- MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 75

the world is not removed by the abolition of rents
and cheap land.
This afternoon I called on the Commodore of Visit the
the German training squadron now lying in these training
waters. The four ships forming the squadron — squadron
' Bismarck,' ' Carola,' * Olga,' and ' Sophia ' — are
well adapted to the work in which they are now
employed. They have the same good qualities
and the same defects that are found in our own
ships of the same class. While thoroughly sea
worthy, and sailing fairly, the speed attained is
not sufficient to give protection to commerce from
a Power having at its disposal the fast steamers
of great coal endurance, engaged in the subsidised
postal services maintained by the Continental
Powers. Visited the University. It stands on a com- The
manding situation, surrounded by a a large space
reserved for cricket, football, and pleasure-grounds.
The buildings are in the Gothic style of the
fifteenth century, from designs by the colonial
architects. The great hall is a masterpiece. Its
dimensions are — length 135 feet, width 45 feet,
height 73 feet. The coloured windows are admi
rable. The late Mr. Anthony Trollope awarded
praise justly merited when he wrote, ' The Col
lege Hall is the finest in the colonies. If I were
to say that no college either at Oxford or Cam
bridge possesses so fine a hall, I might, perhaps,
be contradicted. I certainly remember none of
which the proportions are so good.' Colleges are

76 CRUISE TO INDIA AND" AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

affiliated to the University on the model of those
of Oxford and Cambridge.
Colonial j_n the evening Lord and Lady Carrington
society ° p n -i i
gave a dinner at Government House, followed by
an evening party, at which the guests were
entertained with professional recitations and
amateur music of unusual excellence. After an
extended experience of the kind hospitalities of
Government Houses, I am enabled to say that the
societies which gather within their walls are
essentially identical with the same social order
in the old country. Quite a large proportion of
the men in easy circumstances have received their
education in the public schools and universities at
home. Their sisters have enjoyed similar advan
tages, many having passed their girlhood in
Europe.
Darling July (j, — To Darling Point. The road from
the city to this beautiful suburb skirts the south
ern shore of the harbour. In the character of the
houses and their situation it may be compared
with the most favoured parts of Torquay or St.
Leonards. But Sydney has advantages, to which
I have before referred, over our towns on the
south coast, in the varied aspects of its noble har
bour, the extended space devoted to gardens and
pleasure-grounds, and in the richness of the almost
tropical vegetation. The sandstone cliffs, the
slopes, and the occasional level spaces and natural
terraces, have offered opportunities for laying out
gardens, which have been used with exquisite taste.

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 77~
In the evening we were present at the weekly
drill of the Sydney Naval Volunteers. The manual Sydney
and cutlass exercises were done with admirable Volunteers
precision. The Volunteers then marched into the
domain or park attached to Government House,
and were exercised in the new attack formation.
A numerous detachment went through a course of
ambulance instruction, carrying their comrades on
stretchers, with limbs bound up with bayonets,
scabbards, and rifles, in lieu of splints. All this
was done in the dim starlight,
July 7. — Sydney, in common with Melbourne,
Adelaide, and other Australian cities of less note,
has been ambitious in the scale of her Municipal Municipal
Buildings. The Town Hall already rivals the
Mansion House of London, and a hall is now
being erected which will exceed in size the largest
in Great Britain. By the kind invitation of the
Mayor we visited this building this morning. To
judge from the unfinished structure, the proportions
of the hall have been well considered. It will
contain a splendid organ, now being made in
England. July 8. — A gratifying incident occurred to-day.
All the old-Hastingers now resident in Syd
ney assembled on board the ' Sunbeam ' to present
an address of welcome, beautifully illuminated, Address
and adorned with photographs of Sydney. Few residents of
among their number could ever expect to see the astm§s
dear old town again, but they loved it none the
less, and they were grateful to us — far beyond our

78 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
slender claim— because they believed that we had
been in some measure benefactors and well-wishers
to their native place.
After the exchange of more formal speeches we
had a long and friendly chat with our welcome
visitors. We were glad to hear that all were doing
fairly well. Mr. Davis, who presented the address,
is a member of the House of Commons of New
South Wales.
Excursion July 9. — An excursion to the Hawkesbury
buryaRivev River occupied the whole of a pleasant and inte
resting day. Leaving Sydney at an early hour we
journeyed two hours by railway to the banks of the
Hawkesbury. The scenery was delightful. Some
times it had the character of an English park.
Sometimes we were journeying through a virgin
forest. Here and there, in clearings adjacent to
the railway, groves of oranges might be seen richly
laden with clusters of golden fruit. At the cross
ing of the Parramatta we had a fine view of the
river, at this point a truly noble stream. In the
distance were the Blue Mountains, fully meriting
the name suggested to the early colonists by the
exquisite tones of colour along the whole line of
their far-extending ranges.
As we approached the Hawkesbury the river
could be seen flowing in the deep ravines below.
An excursion on the water occupied the middle
Scenery hours of the day. We passed through scenery
which may be compared to that of the Ehine,
without its castles. The Hawkesbury will shortly

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 79
be spanned by a bridge of splendid proportions,
erected at a cost of 350,000?., which will connect
Sydney with the great coal-fields of Newcastle.
The following extracts are taken from a Sydney
paper : — PICNIC TO LORD BRASSEY
A complimentary picnic was tendered to Lord a picnic
Brassey on Saturday by the public works contrac- ^o^1"3
tors of New South Wales. The picnic took the contrac-
. tors
form of a trip to the Hawkesbury Eiver, and about
150 gentlemen attended. Amongst those present
were the Eight Hon. W. B. Dalley, P.C., Sir John
Eobertson, Sir John Hay (President of the Legis
lative Council), Sir William Ogg, Sir Edward
Strickland, Hon. Julian Salomons, Q.C., M.L.C.
(Vice-President of the Executive), Hon. James
Inglis (Minister of Public Instruction), Hon. F.
Abigail (Minister for Mines), Hon. W. Clarke
(Minister of Justice), Mr. Eiley, M.P. (Mayor of
Sydney), and others.
The party left Eedf ern in a special train shortly
after nine o'clock in the morning, and arrived at
Peat's Ferry about noon. At the ferry they viewed
the work proceeding there in connection with the
construction of the new bridge, and then went on
board Captain Murray's river-boat, the ' General on board
Gordon.' On the upper deck arrangements had f^,,,^
been made for the serving of a cold collation, and o°i'don '
at about one o'clock the party sat down. Mr.
J. C. Carey presided. At the conclusion of the

80 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

repast, and after the usual loyal toasts had been
duly honoured,
The Eight Hon. W. B. Dalley proposed the
health of ' Our distinguished guest, Lord Brassey.'
Speech of In the course of an excellent speechhe said : — ' Our
Mr. Dalley , „. . r , , . ,.
hosts on this occasion are men who have in the
construction of the great public works of this
country expended about 14,000,000?. of the public
funds during the last ten years. Their guest is the
son of a man who had, by similar labours to those
of their hosts on a gigantic scale, by means of his
vast and unparalleled industrial enterprise, helped
largely to change the face of . the world ; who had
constructed some of the greatest monuments of
our later civilisation in England and in India and
in the British Colonies, in France and in Germany,
in Belgium and in Italy, in Spain, Denmark, and
Eussia. In welcoming Lord Brassey to this com
pany of men of enterprise and of large under
takings, and in asking him to meet men of repre
sentative character and position in the community,
you make your compliment dearer and more pre
cious because you are influenced by profound
Tribute to respect for the memory of his parent. You have
Brassey been prompted to honour, not only his personal
merits and his individual labours, but the great
industrial name which he bears — a name ennobled
by the labour and enterprise of his father— because
you are proud to associate yourselves with the career
of one who had done, as you are in your smaller
way endeavouring to do, much for mankind. I

VIII.— MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 81

give you— a company of public contractors — the
health of the son of the greatest of them all, the
son of " Thomas Brassey." '
Lord Brassey, in reply, said there could not Speech of
have been devised a form of hospitality so grateful Brassey
to him as the one he was that day enjoying. He
could assure them that he did not forget his origin.
He was proud of it. If from circumstances which
had been all too fortunate for him, he had been
spared the personal anxieties which were experi
enced so deeply by those employed in the execution
of public works, he had a fellow feeling for those
who were so engaged. The speech in which his
name had been introduced to them referred — and
he was glad that it did refer so largely — to the
career of his dear father. He was proud to know
that the opportunity was afforded to his father of
performing the useful office of a pioneer of civili
sation throughout the length and breadth of the
world. Hisfatherenteredtimidlyupon that career. His father's
He (Lord Brassey) had often heard him describe career
the day which led him to the execution of public
works. He was visited, at the time when the
Liverpool and Manchester Eailway — our first rail
way — was in contemplation, by old George Ste
phenson. He came to see his father, then a young
man, brought up as a surveyor and carrying on his
business in Birkenhead, with reference to the pur
chase of some stone. His father conducted Mr.
Stephenson to the quarry. The impression made
was favourable, and when Mr. Stephenson shook
VOL. II. o

82 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRAIlA IN 1886-87
Advice of hands in the evening he said, ' Well, young man,
phenson there is something promising about you. I see a
great field for railways. It would be well for you
to follow my banner and enter upon this new sphere
of enterprise.' The young man trembled at the
idea, but he took the older one's advice, and ten
dered for a section of the Grand Junction Eailway,
and during the construction of the first ten miles
of that railway their guest was born. He would
not enter into the details of his father's career, but
he had often asked himself what was the secret of
Secret of his success. He believed his success was mainly
due to his high and honest character, and if he
might make one more reference to his father he
would say that the motive which prompted him to
extend his enterprise' to the great limits which it
ultimately reached was not a love of money — it
was the spirit of enterprise, and the ambition to
be a constructor of great and noble works. The
results which had followed from his labours were
patent to all the world. They had done much to
promote the prosperity of mankind. He (Lord
Brassey) did not know that we could find greater
evidence of the benefits of the railway system than
here.
Benefit of He had often wished to visit these colonies.
colonies the He believed that every traveller who came from
the old country and made friends with those
living here was the forger of another link between
the old country and the new. He had watched
such indications as opportunities had placed before

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 83
him of the state of feeling in these colonies, and it
rejoiced his heart to see so many evidences of the
warm feeling of affection which he was sure
animated every heart towards the old country.
He had for more than twenty years been a close
watcher of the feeling in the old country. Pride
in and attachment to the colonies was growing Attach-
stronger every year. We had seen great events colonies in
happen during his short political career. We ™untty
had seen Germany become a united nation, we
had seen Italy become a united nation, and if the
English-speaking and English-loving people in
tended to maintain their influence in the world
they must keep together. We could maintain
this unity, while at the same time maintaining
the principle of local self-government. Beyond
and above that instinctive feeling of race which
bound us all, there was that greatest gift in the
science of politics — the gift of common sense,
which certainly was distinctive of the British
race. He thanked them for their great kindness
in receiving him on that occasion, and neither he
nor those who belonged to him would ever forget
that kindness.
July 11. — Sir Henry Parkes, the Premier of
New South Wales, his daughter, Mr. Collins, the
United States Consul, and others, lunched on
board. The Premier is a great admirer of Mr.
Gladstone. He approves in principle his plans for
the better government of Ireland.
July 12. — Under the guidance of Mr. Miller,

81 CRUIS3 TO IMDn XSD AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Visit to
Messrs.Mort's engineering works

Ref orma ¦
tory ship
' Vernon '

the acting under secretary in the department of
Public Instruction, we left the Circular Quay, in a
launch provided by the Marine Board, at about ten
o'clock, and steamed round to Balmain, where we
made a call at Messrs. Mort & Co.'s engineer
ing works. Mr. Francki, the manager, conducted
us over the whole of the establishment, and ex
plained everything of interest. Messrs. Mort, in
busy times, give employment to 1,100 workmen.
The wages range from eight to fourteen shillings
for a day of eight hours. They have a dock capable
of taking in merchant steamers of the largest class,
and a patent slip capable of receiving ships of
1,000 tons. The German gun-vessel, ' Albatross,'
was under repair in this slip, having been brought
over from Samoa to prepare for a voyage home
ward. This incident shows the strength of our
position in this part of the Pacific. We have an
incontestible supremacy. We have a base of
naval action fully equipped by private enterprise.
No foreign Power has any establishment worthy
the name.
We next visited the reformatory ship ' Vernon '
at her moorings near Cockatoo Island. The
antecedents of the boys, as entered on their admis
sion to the ship, are of the worst description.
After a year of discipline on board they are mostly
sent to stations up country. No difficulty is
experienced in obtaining situations, and nine boys
out of ten do well.
The morning's work concluded with a visit to

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 85
Cockatoo Island, where the colonial Government Cockatoo
have a small dockyard establishment and two 9anrl
graving docks. The ' Fitzroy ' has been in use
for some years. Its dimensions were fully equal
to naval requirements at the date of construction.
A new dock, now approaching completion, is the
largest in the world, and capable of taking in the
' Great Eastern.' The plans and works were
explained by Mr. Moriarty, the engineer-in-chief
of the Government, and by Mr. Samuel, the repre
sentative of the contractors.
In the afternoon went to the Legislative
Assembly to hear Mr. Dalley, who organised the
expedition to the Soudan, speak on the interesting
question of the payment of members.
July 13. — Attended the prorogation of the
New South Wales Parliament. Lunched on
board the German ship ' Bismarck ' with Com- Visit the
. 'Bismarck
modore Heusner. The admirable order of the
German ships, and the good discipline and high
physical standard of the crews, have greatly
impressed the officers of the British squadron in
this port. The officers are men of high education
and accomplishments. All speak English fluently.
In the afternoon attended a meeting of the
St. John Ambulance Association, which was held
in the drawing-room of Government House, with
a view of establishing a permanent centre of the
Ambulance Association in New South Wales. His
Excellency the Governor, Lord Carrington, pre
sided. The paper reported our speeches as follows : — ¦

86 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
Speech of Lord Brassey said : — I have much pleasure in
Brassey offering a few sentences in support of what has
fallen from Dr. Ellis. I am aware that the excel
lent work contemplated by the St. John Ambu
lance Association has already been commenced in
New South Wales. We appreciate very much
what has been done. Indeed, I may say for myself
that I am pleased to know that in connection with
the Naval Volunteer movement, in which I have
Workofthe l0ng taken a deep interest, the work of the St.
St. John ° . . . .
Ambulance John Ambulance Association is already going
Association » -, . , , . . , -r , ,
forward m a most satisfactory manner. Last week
I was earnestly pressed by Commander Lee to
quit another engagement to go out in the Domain,
at a late hour of the night, with a view to see the
corps he has the honour to command engaged at
drill, in what is called the new attack formation.
I found another effort going forward, in which I
take an equally deep interest. A large detachment
of men were receiving practical instruction in the
useful and humane art of administering first aid
to the wounded. Five men, who were supposed
to have received severe injury, were being treated
with such expedients as would be found on a field
of battle. That was the work of the St. John
Association, illustrated in a practical manner. I
am glad to hear from the gentleman who preceded
me of the successful efforts which have already
been made. I am pleased to hear a similar account
with reference to the work at Newcastle. We do
not fail to recognise the value of what has been

VIII.- -MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 87

done already ; but my wife, who has for many years
given her heart so thoroughly to the work of the
St. John Ambulance Association, cannot visit
Sydney, or any other place where she is received
with so much kindness as has been extended to
her here, without wishing to mark her interest in
the community by giving a fresh impetus to this
good work. It is hoped and believed that by some
concentration of effort or administration we shall,
in a more effectual manner than heretofore, not
only carry forward what is already being done, but
extend it to other districts in which the public Extension
interest has not yet been sufficiently awakened to Association
the value of the St. John Ambulance Association.
It is self-evident that in places where men are
engaged in the recesses of the mines the necessity Val«? of
00 ... . suchknow-
for work of this kind is urgent. A necessity, ledge in
equally great, exists for the spread of this most agricui™'
useful knowledge of first aid to the wounded S/8"
amongst the scattered population of the extensive
pastoral and agricultural districts of this colony.
In many of those districts it would be impossible
to secure the attendance of a medical man at the
moment when he was wanted. Let me glance at
another sphere in which it appears to me this
knowledge must be most valuable. I refer to those
who earn their bread upon the ocean — upon those
ships which call at this port and which go forth on
the long voyages which are undertaken from thence.
I earnestly hope that the importance of the work
may be impressed upon the seafaring population.

88 CRUISE TO INDIA. AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Speech of Lady Brassey, who was received with much
Brassey enthusiasm, said : — I cannot thank you sufficiently
for the kind way in which you have come to this
meeting, and also for the way in which this vote
of thanks has been carried by acclamation. It is
perfectly true, as my husband says, that from the
first day of its establishment I have taken the very
interest in greatest interest in the St. John Ambulance
the Asso-

b

ciation Association, because I have known what a really
good society it is, how much suffering it prevents
and how many valuable lives it saves. I really do
feel it to be my duty, wherever I go, to do what
ever I can to help it forward ; sometimes by the
establishment of a centre, and sometimes by the
restoration of one that is somewhat languishing.
Here it is a pleasanter task still, to which I was
stimulated by hearing that excellent classes had
been already formed, and that local centres had
been established. To me it seems a great pity
that, whilst we have such good material, which in
local centres has accomplished such excellent work,
Ahead- there should be no head-centre for the whole
centre . .
required colony, with funds at its disposal, and having a
central committee which would be able to extend
their arms far and wide. With such a head-centre
as I have in view there would be, instead of two
or three societies, tens, if not hundreds, of them,
established throughout the colony. I can hardly
think of any organisation which, so far as the
remote and sparsely populated parts of the colony
are concerned, would be more useful than this.

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 89

The association is most useful in spreading know- Usefulness
ledge which must be of great value to all, and Association
especially to us poor women. If you know what
to do and how to do it, and have the confidence
which knowledge and ability inspire, you will be
able to bear the sight of blood or wounds much
better than if you had not the knowledge I have
indicated. I know that at one time it was to me
a great trial to look at blood or wounds. Then I
could not have bound up an artery to save a man's
life. Now I can bear all this without shrinking,
for a time, at any rate, whatever my feelings may
be afterwards. It appears that the centres to
which reference has been made have been admi
rably organised, and the papers set for the exami- its excei-
nations, so far as I have been able to form an Nation'1'
opinion with respect to them, seem to be particu
larly good. The Volunteer corps to which my
husband has alluded I believe to be wonderfully
well organised, so that if its services were used in
time of war it would be quite self-contained. In
speaking of the formation of the principal centre,
I alluded to one requirement of that centre as that
of funds. The poor we have always with us. To
the poor, the knowledge which this society imparts
is quite as necessary as, perhaps even more so Value to
than, it is to the rich. The bread-winner of the
family ill — perhaps laid up for a long time — means
more to them than such a circumstance would to
us ; so I hope some of the people here will be found
starting the nucleus of a fund which will enable

90 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

the principal centre to be self-supporting. For
this purpose Lord Brassey and I propose to give
501., proceeds of showing the ' Sunbeam ' to
visitors, and to become life members of tho
society. Earnestly recommending to the Ministers
of the Crown, whom we are glad to see present,
the project as a measure of political economy, and
to the company as one of humanitarianism, I will
conclude by thanking you for the kind attention
you have been so good as to give me.
In the evening I presided at the annual
meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society of
Australia. July 15. — Made a charming excursion to the
Excursion Blue Mountains, in a special train. We were the
Mountains6 guests for the daY of Sir HenrY Parkes. The
Chinese Commissioners were of the party. The
chief commissioner, who has the rank of a general,
speaks English perfectly.
The furthest point of our journey to-day was
73 miles from Sydney. Parramatta, the first town
of importance on the line of railway, is the oldest
in New South Wales. The surrounding district
is peculiarly favourable for the growth of orange
trees. After leaving Parramatta the railway crosses
the Emu plains, which are of extraordinary fer
tility. The ascent of the Blue Mountains, by
means of zigzags, is an achievement of great
Engineer- engineering skill. In an incredibly short space of
time a height is reached far exceeding that of our
own Snowdon. From this elevation the view ex-

VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 91

tends over the Emu plains, with their rich tracts
of arable land, refreshed here and there by the
dark green of the orange groves. The Parramatta
can be traced for many miles. Sydney is seen in
the distance.
Having reached the summit of the zigzags, the
railway runs along the elevated plateau of the The
Blue Mountains, winding in a series of sharp fhemoun-
curves and steep inclines through a rugged and ams
difficult region, rocky and incapable of cultivation,
but thickly wooded with gum trees. Here and
there deep gorges penetrate into the heart of the
Blue Mountain range. The crags of bare rock,
presenting perpendicular bases of imposing eleva
tion, form a striking feature. Eeturning towards
Sydney we spent a delightful afternoon at a
country house belonging to Sir Henry Parkes. A
pass leads down from the house to the wooded
glen below, where it follows a mountain stream,
whose waters are in many places concealed by a
rich growth of luxuriant ferns.
July 16. — ' At home ' on board the ' Sun
beam.' Later in the day inspected the Naval Brigade The Naval
— a splendid body of men. Their numbers have ngace
unhappily been reduced from considerations of
economy. Dined with the Chief Justice, Sir Frederick,
and Lady Darley.
July 17. — To church. on board the flagship gUjP
'Nelson.' Walked round the ship after service, vlBltms

92 CRVTSE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

LeaveSydney
in the
' Sunbeam :

Clear the
Heads

and then went on board the ' Opal,' Captain
Bosanquet. Both ships in admirable order and
ably commanded. In the afternoon to the cathe
dral. A fine service.
July 19. — After a busy morning embarked on
the ' Sunbeam.'
The afternoon was beautifully bright and fine,
with a moderate breeze from the westward. On
H.M.S. ' Opal ' quite a number of ladies and gentle
men were assembled, who waved their adieus to
the ' Sunbeam.' About 2.30 the order was given
to slip the moorings, and the steam launch in at
tendance simultaneously began to tow the ' Sun
beam's ' head up to windward. Then, taking ad
vantage of the westerly wind blowing, ran down
the harbour under topsail, top-gallant-sail, jib stay-
foresail, and fore trysail and mainsail. The usual
farewell signals were hoisted as the yacht got
under way, and were duly answered by the British
warships in port, the band on board the ' Nelson '
at the same time striking up ' Auld Lang Syne.'
Eear-Admiral Fairfax, C.B., accompanied the
' Sunbeam ' as far as Clarke Island. The yacht
cleared the Heads at 4.45 p.m.
As we passed between the Heads the sun was
setting — his golden orb seemed to fill the narrow
entrance to the splendid harbour. We sailed close
along the sandstone cliff, from which the wind was
blowing to seaward, filling the ' Sunbeam's ' sails
with a propitious breeze.

IX. — SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 93

IX. — SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE.
We made a smart run during the night from A™ive»'
° . T Newcastle
Sydney to Newcastle, doing the sixty miles from
port to port in seven hours. At 3 a.m. on July 19
we lighted fires, and at 5 steamed slowly in for the
breakwater light at the entrance to the port of
Newcastle. At 7 we made fast to a buoy off the
Custom House,
The Hunter Eiver, at the mouth of which The
Newcastle is situated, is the second in size of the Eiver
rivers of New South Wales. It is three hundred
miles long, and is navigable by large coasting
steamers to the town of Morpeth, twenty-three
miles from the sea. Maitland, a town of 10,000
inhabitants, situated a few miles below Morpeth,
is the centre of a flourishing agricultural district,
in which grapes are largely cultivated, and which
contains an almost inexhaustible coal-field.
Newcastle is the great port for the shipment The coai-
of coals from the chief coal-fields in New South Newcastle
Wales. Considerably over two million tons are
now shipped annually, chiefly to the ports of
Australasia and New Zealand, and to San Fran
cisco. Ships coming out from the British ports to
Australia frequently load with coals at Newcastle
for San Francisco, and return thence with wheat
to England. The existence of coal was first dis
covered by Lieutenant Shortland in 1797. In
1845 one mine only was being worked. At the

94 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Facilitiesfor loading
ships

The city

Defence of
the entrance

View from
Monument
Hill

present time more than 5,000 men are employed
in the pits. They work eight hours a day. The
day wages of the underground men average ten to
twelve shillings. No less than thirty-five seams
of coal have been discovered, varying in thickness
from 5 to 21^ feet. The appliances for loading
coal are most complete. Three and a half miles
of quay have been built, with sufficient water for
vessels of the heaviest tonnage. The quays are
fitted with numerous cranes, a considerable number
being worked by hydraulic power. The machinery
was supplied by Sir William Armstrong's firm. A
cargo of one thousand tons can be shipped in a
single day. The present price of coal, free on
board, is eleven shillings a ton.
The city of Newcastle with its suburbs has a
population of 30,000. The streets are well laid
out, the public buildings substantial, and the shops
excellent. The entrance to the port is defended
by a fort on Flagstaff Hill, armed with three
9-inch guns and three rifled 80-pounders. The
channel, being narrow, tortuous, and of moderate
depth, can readily be denied to an enemy by
torpedoes. From Monument Hill— an isolated
elevation above Newcastle — the view embraces a
long sweep of the great coast range of New South
Wales, the noble harbour, in which as many as
two hundred sail of the finest merchant-ships may
often be seen, and the city of Newcastle and its
populous suburbs. The existence of coal-fields,
the main source of the local prosperity, is indicated

IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 95
by numerous shafts visible in all directions. We
had glorious weather, and the scene was not
obscured by the dense volumes of smoke which
fill the atmosphere on the banks of the Tyne,
The proceedings of the day included inspection
of the Council Chamber, the Fort, Messrs. Dalgety's
wool stores, and a public luncheon, at which the
Mayor of Newcastle presided.
On the termination of the luncheon we pro
ceeded, at the invitation of the directors of the
Newcastle Coal Mining Company, to visit their Visit to
colliery at the Glebe. In one of the large bords colliery
(to be used in the future as stables) several tables
were laid out with refreshments, the whole scene
being brilliantly illuminated with magnificent
Chinese lanterns, and the walls of the mine being
tastefully decorated with splendid ferns.
Mr. S. Keightiey, in the name of the directors, Speech of
returned thanks to Lord and Lady Brassey for Keightiey
taking the trouble to inspect their mine. He
trusted that their visit would not be wholly un
pleasant or unprofitable to them. He would
remind them that the coal trade was one in which
all connected with Newcastle were interested — it
was their staple industry. When he first arrived
here the total annual export of coal was 983,000 Progress of
tons. That was the time in which the Newcastle industry
Coal Company commenced opening their pit — the
pit through which they had just passed — and in
which they had met on that auspicious occasion.
He was unable to say what the decennial returns

at New
castle

96 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
from that year were, as he regretted very much to
say that the Mining Department had not yet
published their returns for 1886, although we were
then in the seventh month of the year 1887.
However, he would give the result of the year
Exf?rt1°uL 1885> viz. 2,113,000 tons, whilst the export for the
coal in 1885 _ i
last year would beat that quantity proportionately,
and the increase of the present would be propor
tionately greater than that of the pa.st. Lord
Brassey would therefore see that the coal trade of
Australia, as represented by the Northern districts,
was in a very satisfactory condition. He found
that the total value of the export of coal in 1876
was 618,500/. ; in 1885 it had reached 1,033,000/.
Eef erring to the relative difference between selling
Price per the coal at 14s. per ton and at lis., he said that
coal proprietors had found it to their interest -to
sell at the latter price, and thus command the
markets, and that the large additional advantages
for shipping and producing the coal compensated
for the difference in the price. In the old days
the collieries only worked two or three days per
week, whereas at the present time they worked
Number of every day. In 1876 there were 3,180 men
men em- , - . .
ployed employed m the collieries ; there were now 5,380.
There were then eight collieries ; there were now
thirteen. The above large number of men em
ployed also represented a great number of the
population supported by the coal trade. Australians
here, therefore, looked upon the coal trade as one
of the greatest importance. Although the export

IX. — SYDNEY- TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 97

of 2,000,000 tons of coal might appear insignificant
when compared with British exports, yet when
the two populations were compared he thought
the comparison would be favourable to Australia.
We. came to the end of a long day .at Newcastle
with the most favourable impressions of the city
and its district, and full of gratitude to its kind
and enterprising inhabitants.^
July 20. — At an early hour Lady Brassey
and her party of travellers landed, at Tenterfield,
and took the train for Brisbane.. Eeturning on
board the ' Sunbeam,' we cast off from the buoy, Leave
and made sail for .Brisbane with a fresh breeze for
from the north-west. Brisbane
July 21-22.^- We continued under sail with
variable winds and generally fine weather. The
chief features of the fine stretch of coast be- Features
of the
tween Newcastle and Brisbane are the Boughton coast
Islands, Cape Hawke, a densely wooded promontory
rising to a height of 800 feet, and the Solitary
Islands, a detached group scattered over- a . space
of 22 .miles in a north and south direction, at a
distance of four to six miles from the shore. A
light is exhibited from the south Solitary, and a
signal establishment is kept up. We communicated
with this isolated port. .An islet adjacent to the
south Solitary Island is remarkable for a large
natural arch, which- the ceaseless breaking of the
sea has opened through the rock.
Passing north from the Solitaries we again
closed with the coast at Cape Byron. The scenery
VOL. II. H

98 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Coast
scenery.MountWarning

MoretonIsland.Rapid pro
gress

Arrive at
Brisbane.Intricatenavigation

is magnificent. The coast range attains to a great
elevation. Mount Warning, the loftiest peak, rises
to a height of 3,840 feet, and is visible fully sixty
miles. It was our guiding mark in the navigation
of the coast for a space of fully twenty-four hours.
At Danger Point the boundary line between
Queensland and New South Wales descends to
the coast from the high summits of the Macpherson
Eange. July 23.— At noon we were off the entrance
to the narrow channel which divides Stradbroke
Island from Moreton Island, tearing along at twelve
knots an hour, under lower canvas only, with a
strong wind off the land and smooth water. It
was a splendid bit of yachting. We passed a
steamer which had come out with the Mayor and
a large party from Brisbane to meet us. They
welcomed us to Queensland with hearty cheers, to
which we cordially responded. We stood in close
under the land and followed the high coast of
Moreton Island. Its northern extremity, a fresh,
verdure-clad, and well-wooded point of land, on
which stands a lighthouse, was, on this sunny and
breezy day, perfectly beautiful.
Off the north end of Moreton Island we took a
pilot, and proceeding under steam arrived at 10 p.m.
off Government House, Brisbane, a distance of 50
miles from Cape Moreton. The navigation from
the bar of the river to Brisbane, a distance of 25
miles, is extremely intricate. Everything has been
done which it is possible to do, by leading lights

IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 99

at frequent intervals, to assist the pilots ; but we
passed a steamer of the British India Company —
which had entered the river an hour ahead of the
' Sunbeam ' — aground on a bank, from which
she was not floated until after a delay of two
days. July 24-26 were spent at Brisbane, under At Govern-
the hospitable roof of Government House. Sir House
Anthony Musgrave, the present Governor of sir
Queensland, has had a long experience in many. MuV^-"ve
colonies. It was gratifying to hear that the
prospects of Australia are full of promise ; but the.
fifth continent can never become another United
States. It wants the noble rivers of North
America, and its wide tracts of fertile soil.
We discussed federation. The value of the Federation
united empire to the mother country and the
colonies was a frequent topic. On the question
of federation the tone of the Brisbane press was view of
more divided than in the larger colonies. The press™6
probability of an ultimate separation from the
mother country was discussed freely in the local
journals, and a slender appreciation was shown of
the helplessness of the colonies, when separated
from the empire, in their dealings with great
Powers such as Germany or France.
The city of Brisbane is situated on both banks The city of
of a noble river. By persevering labour it has Bnsbane
been deepened, more especially at the bar, .suffi
ciently to give passage to ships of the largest size.
The wharves and the shipping, with their bare
H 2

100 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
spars towering high above the houses, are a fine
feature in the general aspect of the city.
Population, Brisbane and its district has over 70,00.0 inhabi-
suburbsT tants. In its public buildings, gardens, and well-
planned streets it far surpasses an ordinary
provincial town in England of corresponding
population. From One Tree Hill, a thickly
wooded range, four miles outside Brisbane, a
glorious view is obtained of the city and its suburbs.
Here, as I have remarked in describing other
Australian towns, the suburbs are the. most satis
factory parts of the city. Their straggling
character, the houses well spaced out by gardens
and broad roads, give proof of the good conditions
under which the masses live. The picturesque
windings of the river Brisbane can be followed for
many miles. The smiling scene is closed in on
the landward side by the coast range of Queens
land. On its seaward side are the land-locked
waters of the spacious bay, Moreton and Strad-
broke Islands forming a grand natural breakwater.
Beyond are the boundless waters of the Pacific.
On the sights of Brisbane I will be brief.
Government House, with the domain or park, and
Botanic the Botanic Gardens adjacent, occupies a tongue
of land, round which on three sides the river takes
a majestic sweep. This space has been wisely
reserved as one of the lungs of the crowded city of
the future. The Botanical Gardens are admir
ably laid out. Palms of every species grow luxu
riantly in this balmy climate. The clumps of

IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 101
bamboos round a basin of water in the centre of
the grounds are not surpassed for beauty and
strength of growth by the splendid specimens in
the gardens at Kandy.
Separated only by a narrow belt of sward from
Government House stand the Houses of Legisla- Houses of
ture, substantial buildings in the Italian style.
The chambers provided for the legislative bodies
are excellent. To facilitate the use of the excellent
library, a catalogue raisonne has been prepared by
the able librarian, Mr. Donovan, in which the best
authorities on every topic of importance are enu
merated and grouped together. Such a catalogue
would infinitely aid research. It should be pub
lished for the general benefit of the literary world,
I cannot omit from this enumeration the great The great
bridge, manufactured at my father's works at Bir
kenhead, which connects together North, and South
Brisbane. It has a length of 1,080 feet. The
widest span is 132 feet. This bridge was com
menced in 1863, and opened in 1874.
Brisbane, as the capital, shares in the varied
sources of prosperity offered in Queensland. The
Darling Downs, in the southern part of the colony,
are- favourable for sheep. Further north are vast Agricui-
tracts suitable for horned cattle. The' products of ^eraf
the tropics can be successfully cultivated in the Pr°d"<:tsof
. . . Queens-
northern districts. The climate is more suitable land
for maize than wheat, and it is in this article, and
in sugar, that the most important increase. of pro
duction has. taken place; The minerals are a most

102 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
important element in the prosperity of Queensland.
The total produce of gold already amounts to
16,000,000/., and other workings are being pro
secuted with undiminished activity. In Queens
land gold is obtained chiefly from the quartz
reefs. Short as our stay was in Brisbane, I had the
privilege of meeting the Prime Minister, Sir Samuel
Griffith, the librarian of the Houses of Legislature,
Mr. Donovan, Captain Heath, and the officials
connected with the marine departments, and
Bishop Thornhill, appointed to Queensland from
active work in a London parish. In such hands
the resources of the colony will not be neglected.
Excursion During our visit we made an excursion to the
settlement first agricultural show at Marburg, an interesting
at Marburg Q.ermall settlement, formed in the last twenty
years. The settlers have, by the most laborious
efforts, cut down the dense scrub with which this
part of the country was covered. Their frugality,
their patience under many privations, and their
industry, have been rewarded. They grow maize,
sugar, tobacco, and vegetables, but their cattle seem
to be the most thriving and successful part of their
business. In some seasons want of water, and in
every season the heavy rainfall at the period when
the grain is coming to maturity, are serious draw
backs to agriculture in this district. On the
lindT whole, it may be said that Queensland is far more
pastoral adapted to be a pastoral than an agricultural
country ...
country. The capabilities of the country may be

IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 103

measured by a comparison of statistics — 000's
omitted.

New South Wales.
Victoria South Australia .
Queensland .

Bushels raised in
1885-86

2,733 9,170
14,621 51

4,336 181
1,574

Xumbcrin 1888

Cattle

Sheep

1,317 37,820
1,290 ! 10,681
390 6,696
4,162 , 8,994

The drive from the station at which we alighted
to Marburg was through a dense forest of scrub,
and over an undulating country. Here and there
large patches have been cleared and brought under
cultivation. The dwellings of the laborious German
colonists, true pioneers of civilisation, by whom
this country has been opened up, are distributed
along the line of road at short distances apart.
No holding exceeds 160 acres.
Marburg is a small village. The houses are of
wood. The principal building is the school of art.
There is also a theatre, a music hall, and a place
of meeting for the villagers. It was used on the
occasion of our visit for the exhibition of all the
products of the district, including sugar and rum,
fruits and vegetables, leather and saddlery. The
following list of the produce for which prizes were
offered will give a fair indication of the climate and
soil of the district.

Village of
Marburg

104 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

VEGETABLES.
Produce of Lettuces, peas, French beans, cucumbers,
carrots, white turnips, swede turnips, beetroot,
onions, English potatoes, sweet potatoes, rhubarb,
table pumpkins, mangel-wurzels, horse-radish,
turnip radish, herbs, leeks, garlic, eschalots,
cabbage (drumhead), cauliflowers, pumpkins.
FARM PRODUCE.
Maize, wheat, barley, rye, sugar-cane, tobacco,
sorghum, panicum, white peas, blue peas, grey
peas, French beans, broad beans, lucerne hay,
oaten hay. FRUITS.
Pineapples, bananas, oranges, mandarin
oranges, lemons, apples, loquats, Cape goose
berries, pomegranates, quinces, tomatoes.
FLOWERS.
Fuchsias, camellias, begonias, pelargoniums,
geraniums, ferns, lycopods, pansies, chrysanthe
mums, lilies of the valley, roses, verbenas, wild
flowers, DAIRY PRODUCE. •
Salt butter, fresh butter, ham, bacon, lard,
eggs. The ceremony of declaring the exhibition open
was performed by the Governor in a sentence.
We then proceeded to view the outdoor portion of
the show, the poultry, pigs, cattle, horses, sheep,

IX. — SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 105
and implements. It was interesting to walk
through a crowd of many hundreds of- strongly
marked German faces. All the young people speak
English, all the older people retain their mother
tongue. English is taught in the schools, German
is used in the churches.. The Germans make Germans
,. , . . , as colonists
excellent colonists.
The drive from Marburg to the Eosewood Eosewood
station led us back to the railway through a
country differing altogether in aspect from that
traversed in the morning. We crossed the sharp
ridges of the coast range by a succession of abrupt
ascents and descents. In the valleys and depres
sions between the ridges, the patient German
colonists have established themselves in farms
divided pretty evenly between arable and pasture
land. The homesteads, consisting of little clusters German
of huts, are dotted over the whole face of the steads
country. The plain wooden sheds used as churches
are generally erected at the highest points to which
the roads are carried, in positions from which
glorious views are obtained of the far extending
ridges and high peaks of the coast range, and of
the rich vale of Eosewood, into which we presently
descended. By the invitation of Captain Wright, I inspected
the steel twin screw gun- vessel ' Gayundah.' This, The < Gay-
and the sister vessel 'Paluma,' were built by Sir andah'
William Armstrong. Their armament consists of 'Paluma'
one 8-inch- and one 6-inch gun, and four machine
guns.. They steam- ten knots, and have a good

106 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Queens
land Naval
Brigade

coal endurance. The ' Gayundah ' was in excellent
order, and manned by a good crew, including
several men-of-war's men.
In the course of the year the Queensland gun-
vessels visit ports at which naval brigade men
have been enrolled. The actual strength of the
brigade is — . 100
. 50 50 and 50 Naval Artil
lery Volunteers
. 50 '

BrisbaneTownsville .
Rockhampton

Maryborough

Fixed and
floatingdefence of
Brisbane

LeaveBrisbane

The flotilla of Queensland includes, in addition
to their two Armstrong gun-boats, a twin screw
armed tender, five armed barges-, a torpedo-boat,
and a Government yacht. The land defences of
Brisbane consist of an enclosed work with defen
sible stockade armed with two 6-inch breech-
loading guns and two 64-pounders. The fort and
the torpedo defences effectually bar the passage
up the river to Brisbane.
July 28. — Sir Anthony and Lady Musgrave,
Captain Heath, Captain and Mrs. Wright, the
Bishop of Brisbane, and quite a number of friends
had assembled on board to say • good-bye.'
Throughout our stay we had had perfect weather,
bracing and crisp at night, cloudless and sunny
during the day. The heat from noon until sunset
was quite equal to what we experience on a fine
summer's day in England. We descended the
river from Brisbane to the sea under these favour-

IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 107

able conditions. Commencing the voyage in the Down the
heart of the city, the crowded streets gradually
open out into suburbs, where every house is sur
rounded by garden and plantation. Vegetation
gradually becomes more dense as the mouth of
the river is approached.
After crossing the bar we made sail. At 8 p.m.
we were off Cape Moreton. At dawn on the
following morning we were off . Sunday Cape ; at
noon we had rounded the dangerous shoals off
Breaksea Spit. In the evening we were off Cape
Capricorn. In the night we passed through the
narrow channel inside Hummocky Island, and at
daybreak we took a pilot on board, who conducted
us to the anchorage under Little-sea Hill at the Arrive and
mouth of the Fitzroy Eiver. The great inner theFitzroy
route to the Torres Straits commences off Break- River
sea Spit. Analysis of Los
Brisbane to Bockhampton

Analysis of
log

Sail

Steam

Lat.

Long.

Remarks

July 29
„ 30
„ 31

' 184
138

20
.12 ¦40

24-23 S.
23-29 S.

153-24 B.
151-C0'E.

Weighed 1.40 r.M. Fresh
breezes S.E.
Same weather. At anchor 7
A.M. to 3 P.M.
Arrived at Eockhampton at
9 P.M.

322

72

Total distance from Portsmouth :
Sail
Steam . . . .

11,868 8,529
20,397

108 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Proceed and arrive
at Roek-
hampton

We were favoured with a brisk breeze for the
run up from Brisbane, and accomplished the
distance from Cape Moreton to the Fitzroy river,
330 miles, in. thirty-four hours.
We started for Eockhampton at 3.30 p.m., and
arrived off the town in 5^ hours. Distance, 40
miles. Glorious sunset and afterglow. Fine ranges
of mountains. Eichly wooded banks of the river
in the foreground.

Eockhampton

Excursion
to Mount
Morgan

X. — EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN
July 31. — An acceptable day of rest. Attended
an excellent service in the Episcopal church, one
of the most substantial and well designed in the
colony. Eeceived a visit from the Mayor of
Eockhampton. Learnt that the town had not
been prospering of late. The prolonged drought
had caused a great loss of cattle in the stations.
The want of prosperity in pastoral pursuits has
been barely compensated by the extraordinary
success of the Mount Morgan Gold-mining
Company's operations.
August 1 and 2. — Excursion to Mount Morgan
mine. Distance by road twenty-five miles. On
leaving Eockhampton the first ten miles pass
over level country by ah excellent road. The
district is but little cultivated, and has the
universal character of the great Australian bush.
It is a vast forest of gum-trees. Many have been

mine

X.— ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 109
killed by removing the bark to improve the
pasture. As the distance from Eockhampton
increases the road becomes a mere track. At
every gully which is crossed the declivities are of
almost impassable steepness. The traffic to . the
Mount Morgan mine is conducted by the sheer
brute force of innumerable horses. A two-wheel
cart is drawn by four horses, a four-wheel waggon
by twelve horses. A boiler was hauled up only
two days ago. by upwards of sixty horses. The
Mount Morgan Gold-mining Company possess a rich gold
probably the most productive gold mine . in the
world. The discovery of the gold-bearing rock,
of which the whole .mass of Mount Morgan is
composed, was made while searching for copper
ore. The gold at Mount Morgan is obtained from
a lode of decomposed iron pyrites, partly under
lying a bed of quartz, and at various points
cropping up to the surface. The original dis
coverers of the ore, and the individuals who
supplied the slender amount of capital with which
the company commenced operations, have realised
great fortunes. The capital of the company as at
present constituted is 1,000,000/., divided into 1/. The Com-
shares, 17s. 6d. paid. The present price of the its shares
shares is 6/. At this high premium the dividends
at the present rate yield under 4/.. per cent.
Machinery is in course of erection, which will
double the output. .
To the unskilled eye there is nothing in the
appearance of the rock which indicates the presence

110 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
of the precious metal. We ascended to the
summit of the range, and there saw some fifty
men quarrying a substance bearing a close resem
blance to the rocks of any volcanic region. The
amount of material of a. similar character is esti-
Percentage mated by millions of tons, the percentage of gold
varying from five ounces upwards per ton.
The pro- At Mount Morgan the process known as
chiorhia- chlorination has been developed on a larger scale
tion at than has elsewhere been attempted. The process
Morgan is described as follows : —
The process of chlorination at Mount Morgan is
a very interesting one, and would well repay a
visit of inspection by any who are interested in the
profitable and economic treatment of auriferous
ores. The tailings, as they come from the
battery or from the dry crusher, as the case may
be, are first of all roasted in eight large furnaces,
each with a capacity of putting through 8 tons in
twenty-four hours. The roasting of the ore in the
first place is to free it from the waters of crystalli
sation and to burn all organic matter out of it.
When it leaves the furnaces it is turned out to
cool in a large space, which lies under the principal
sheds, between the furnaces and the chlorinising
barrels. When it has sufficiently cooled, it is taken
on an inclined tramway to the hoppers connected
with the chlorination barrels, in which the gas is
generated by mingling chloride of lime with
sulphuric, .acid. . Water only is added, - and- - the
barrels, which are, of course, perfectly air-tight,

X. — ROCKHAMPTON to cooktown ill

are kept revolving until the gold is thoroughly
chlorinated, or, to speak plainly, put into a fluid
state. Each barrel contains a charge of about a
ton of ore, and it is possible to get through twelve
charges in the twenty-four hours. The period for
which the barrels are made to revolve averages
one and a half hours. When this operation is
over the contents of the barrels are discharged
into what are known as the draining-vats, from
whence the water and the gold, put into a state of
solution, are drained into the charcoal filters
below. The charcoal possesses such an affinity
for the chlorine that the gold is rapidly deposited,
and the charcoal is so laid in these V-shaped
filters that the golden fluid passes through layers
gradually becoming finer towards the bottom, and
thus practically all the gold that is dissolved by
the chlorine gas in the barrels is caught in the char
coal ; and so effectual is the process that the refuse
from the draining tubs will not assay more than a
pennyweight or a pennyweight and a half to the
ton, while, in order that nothing may be lost that is
possible to save, the water which drains off from
the charcoal filters is pumped back and goes through
the process a second time. The contents of the
charcoal filters are conveyed straight to the
smelting works, which are of a very complete kind,
and are under the immediate superintendence of
Mr. Trenear. There the charcoal on which the gold
has been precipitated is first roasted . in furnaces
specially constructed, and the residuum smelted

112 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Perfectionof the
process

Reportof Mr.
Cameron,
M.P.

in the usual smelting-pots. After this it is run,
as occasion requires, into ingots of the purest gold
that is ever turned out in Queensland.
Chlorination was originally attempted in the
United States. It has been perfected at Mount
Morgan. By the ordinary crushing and washing
process one ounce to the ton would be extracted
from the rock quarried at Mount Morgan. By
chlorination every particle of gold is extracted.
The product sometimes reaches 17 oz. per ton.
The average may be taken at 5 oz. Half an ounce
would cover expenses.
An interesting report on the Mount Morgan
mines has recently been made by Mr. Cameron,
M.P, He describes the physical character of the
country as consisting of abrupt cliffs and pictu
resque and beautifully sheltered valleys, clothed
with rich and succulent grasses, sparse under
growth, and the many and ever-present varieties
of the gum-trees of Australia.. The rocks in the
vicinity., consist of . quartzites, sandstones, and
shales. . The gold-bearing rocks were deposited,
according to the opinion of Mr. Jack, the Govern
ment geologist, by a thermal spring in the open
air. Mr... Cameron quotes the opinion, of Dr.
Liebnis, the Director of the Sydney Mint, as to
the quality of the Mount Morgan gold. It assayed
as high as.99-8 per. cent., and readily sells for 4/. 4s.
per oz. As to the quantity of gold bearing ore,
he considers it beyond even, approximate computa
tion.

X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 113
Most of the men employed in quarrying at work and
Mount Morgan are new arrivals in the colony. ™eg„iners
Their wages may be taken at 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. a
day. They work only eight hours, but they work
hard, and the climate is hot for a large part of the
year. The cost of living is 15s. a week. Many
of the men save from their earnings. They
generally invest their money by taking a share in
a gold-mining enterprise, worked on the co-opera
tive plan. The Croydon goldfield, in Northern
Queensland, is at present attracting much atten
tion. The quarrymen working on the co-operative
plan take their rocks to crushing mills, paying so
much a ton for the use of the machinery. Some
men make a little fortune in this way.
Taking a general view of the conditions of life Eecreation
at Mount Morgan, it is obvious that the full bene- mineies
fit of the high wages is by no means realised. The
dwellings are of the rudest kind. The blessings
of the higher civilisation are but scantily enjoyed.
The men do not enjoy in a rational way their hours
of leisure. The company are about to erect a
school- of art, out of which will probably grow a
mechanics' institute, a library, and a reading-room.
The Eoman Catholics and Wesleyans have chapels
at Mount Morgan.
On our return from Mount Morgan I inspected The local
the men of the local naval brigade and naval brigade and
Volunteers. volunteers
The inspection of the naval brigade and naval
volunteers was interesting, as an illustration of the
vol. n. *i

114 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
policy adopted by the Australian colonies, and
commended in the able paper on the present posi
tion of European politics in the 'Fortnightly
Two classes Eeview ' of June 1887. They have two classes of
or volun- ^
teers volunteers — a volunteer militia, which is paid, and
a force in the nature of a purely volunteer force,
which is armed and instructed, but not paid. The
adoption of a similar plan at home is worthy of
consideration. We might enrol a body of volun
teer militia, similar to the colonial force, who
should be instructed at home and at hours which
would not interfere with other employments. Some
expense would be saved, and a class of men would
enlist decidedly superior to that generally repre
sented in the existing militia. As to the efficiency
obtained in Australia, I can only give the opinion
of a civilian. So far as I was able to judge, it was
highly satisfactory.
August 3. — The following is a report of a con
versation which took place in reference to an article
in ' The Daily Northern Argus ' of August 3, 1877 : —
inter- A representative of the ' Argus ' waited upon
arepresen- his lordship yesterday afternoon, to obtain from
the^lrgus' -b-im an expression of opinion upon matters which
are at present engaging the attention of the
English-speaking community throughout the
world. Alluding to the Federation of the Empire, his
Views on lordship said it was simply an adoption by England
of the policy which was marking the history of
other nations. Germany had adopted it, Italy had

X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COUKTOWN 115

done the same, and the recent movements of
Eussia tended in the same direction. ' Speaking
for myself,' he said, ' I would rather be a citizen
of a big State than of a small.' The difficulties
which stood in the way of the accomplishment of
Imperial Federation were rapidly diminishing.
The extension of railways and telegraphs, the
improved conveniences for travelling, the construc
tion of steamers of an increased speed (his lord
ship does not think that we have as yet reached
the maximum speed which will be attained) were
all doing their work. It was argued, he knew,
that there was a danger that some day, by rash
action on some question in which the colonies
were not interested, Australia might be made the
subject of attack from a foreign Power. He does
not think that such a contingency is likely to arise,
and is convinced that it is growing more remote
every day. The policy of any British Govern- Policy of
ment will always be adjusted to the condition of Govern-
the Empire and its requirements as a whole, and ment
no Ministry would be so foolish as to involve these
great colonies in a needless war. A consideration of
his responsibilities in connection with the colonies
would exercise a restraining influence upon a
Minister. Australia was interested in England's
retention of her hold upon India and the mainte
nance of her supremacy on the seas. These Mutual
interests were as dear to colonials as they were to Enghmd °
the citizens of the mother land. The expansion Australia
of Australia's -trade was forcing this conviction i 2

116 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

upon men's minds. ' Why, it was only the other
day,' said Lord Brassey, ' that a gentleman (Mr.
Thompson) told me, on board the " Sunbeam,"
that he had shipped a cargo of horses from his
station to go to Calcutta by a barque which was
loading in the Fitzroy river.' The community of
interests was growing between the old and new
lands, and it was a matter of deep concern to both
that no other Power should obtain dominant influ
ence in India, and be able to impose tariffs which
would be absolutely prohibitive. The feeling which
was gradually binding each of the British depen
dencies together was uniting the whole English-
speaking race, and he emphasised particularly the
increasingly close relations between the United
States and. Great Britain., There was a strong
affinity in national hopes and aspirations between
German the English and Germans, who made the best
possible colonists, and who adopted, unconsciously
perhaps, but readily, the British character., It
was a noteworthy fact that the German colonist
of a generation old was really an English-speaking,
English-thinking man. His lordship sees nothing
in the immediate future which is likely to check
the growth of this mutual sympathy.. The politi
cal relations he regards as a matter of small con
cern so long as the sentiment is strengthened —
the sentiment which he is sure would prevent the
English-speaking citizens of America from stand
ing by and seeing the motherland insulted or
wronged. Federation, is likely to come as a

X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 117

natural sequence of events without any elaborate
plans. He believes that the present system of
government is admirably suited to the colonies,
and works well both in regard to local affairs and
the relations of Australia to England.
This brought Lord Brassey to the recent The im-
Imperial and Colonial Conference, which he regards ccJoniai"
as an eminently successful practical step towards Conference
Federation. It was tentative, it is true, and it
was a somewhat hazardous experiment. Possibly,
if we could have divined Lord Salisbury's thoughts,
we should have found that he was half afraid of it.
If the delegates had met in London only to dis
cover that they represented divided interests, then
disintegration might possibly have followed.
Happily results had been very different. A great
council, which was unprecedented in English
history, had assembled. English statesmen knew
more of colonial politicians, and colonial politicians
knew more of each other, than they had known
before ; and this had brought the Parliaments and
the people closer together. The Australian repre
sentatives were made welcome at home, and were
accorded a deference which was as flattering to
them as it was deserved.
Lord Brassey hopes that the scheme of defence Scheme of
which was adopted at the conference will be colonial
carried into effect. It will, he thinks, be generally tSnto-""
accepted that the time has come when these wards
colonies may fairly be asked to contribute towards
the maintenance of the fleet which protects their

118 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
commerce, in addition to the outlay which they
have incurred for the defence of their ports and
harbours. He does not think that the demand
made upon the colonies is excessive, and believes
that the scheme propounded, which is necessarily
a tentative one, is the best that could have been
suggested under the circumstances. He had been
asked whether he thought that the class of vessels
which had been selected to reinforce the Australian
The Aus- squadron was the best suited for the purpose ; and
squadron he had said that, looking at the general conditions
of wind and sea on the Australian coast, it was
quite possible that vessels of greater power would
be more serviceable ; but it must be remembered
that the cost would be proportionately greater also.
Looking, then, at the financial aspect of the
question — which all governments have in view —
he regards the arrangement as satisfactory. ' And, '
he added, ' there is one fact that I think should
weigh greatly in the consideration of this matter.
It will be admitted that the Admiralty has acted
in perfect good faith, and with the best naval
advice at its command. It has recommended the
best flotilla which could be procured at a given
cost. The recommendation was considered by a
conference, at which the best available representa
tives of the colonies were present, and after dis
cussion they adopted it. This to me is a weighty
reason why the plan should be endorsed. As an
outsider, I should be prepared to support it,
knowing that it is for a limited term — for ten years

X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 119
is a brief space in the history of a nation — so that Period
it can be watched, and either modified or extended, men?66
I should prefer it to being asked to contribute to
the purchase of a ship which at the end of ten
years might be obsolete.' Some writers, he knew,
advocated the establishment of a separate navy.
' What,' he asks, ' do you think could be obtained Advan-
for the sum that the colonies are asked to con- cofonies "*
tribute? What would 125,000/. do? Simply
purchase a few torpedo-boats.' Lord Brassey
thinks that the squadron in the Australian waters
should be strengthened by a redistribution of the
fleet and the withdrawal of ships from the
American coast, where they are not so much
required. For all reasons, then, he would like to
see the Australian station largely augmented, and
rendered the greatest British station outside Euro
pean waters. Three years on the East India
station deteriorated and weakened a crew, whilst
three years in Australian waters should turn them
out in the prime of health and activity.
In answer to a remark drawing Lord Brassey's
attention to the statements reported to have been
made by Lord Eandolph Churchill with reference statements
to the maladministration of the Navy, Lord lundoipii
Brassey said that there were a number of state- churchl11
ments made by the ex-Chancellor of the Exchequer
which were fully answered and refuted in the
' Times ' a day or two afterwards upon the
authority of Captain Fitzgerald, who was engaged
in the operations alluded to. His lordship

120 CRUISE TO INDIA .AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

our navy

remarked that it is to be regretted that a man of
such prominence as Lord Eandolph should make
statements — which are invested with importance
and gain publicity because of his position — -whilst
the answers which come with the weight of
practical knowledge are not so widely circulated.
No doubt there was a reluctance on the part of
the British Government to embark in such a
policy of profuse naval expenditure as that which
France embarked in some time ago, but when the
necessity was made clear it was promptly met,
strength of and in one year there was an increase of 2,000,000/.
on the Naval Estimates. Our Navy was now
infinitely stronger than that of France in ironclads
and swift cruisers. Eussia need not be seriously
regarded as a naval power. She might, and very
probably would, obtain swift merchant vessels,
equip them with light guns, and with them harass
our trade and send up the rates of insurance.
This danger could be met and minimised by
prompt action and adequate vigilance. As an
instance of how little this danger was to be
dreaded, Lord Brassey remarked that during the
last war scare every suspicious Eussian vessel was
watched by a British cruiser, which had instruc
tions to keep her constantly in view. Eussian
agents would purchase vessels in case of war, but
their movements would be watched, and when
they made an offer for a vessel the British Govern
ment was sure to be acquainted of the fact.
Eussia has few fast ships, O.ur. own resources

Action of
Britishcruisers in
last war
scare

X.— ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 121
are daily increasing, and the last step taken by the
Admiralty in encouraging the construction of
merchant steamers which could be converted into
armed cruisers would greatly add to our naval
strength. Eussia to-day, according to Lord
Brassey, is just what she was years ago — a mighty
nation to resist invasion, but powerless to strike
at any distance.
' You think, then,' our representative asked,
' that, in the event of England being engaged in a
European war, the Australian colonies would be
attacked ? '
' I think,' said Lord Brassey, ' that no hostile Security of
fleet could come into, these waters without a
superior British fleet following them.' Eussia
would not muster a fighting fleet for the purpose
of invading Australia without England getting
together a stronger one to anticipate her. Indeed,
our naval position is as secure, Lord Brassey
thinks, as is our military position in India. If any
danger exists in India at all, it is rather through
the operations of agents at the bazaars than by
any direct invasion ; and he does not think that
any internal troubles need be apprehended.
Eeverting again for a moment to the subject
of Federation, Lord Brassey alluded to the eager
ness which British capitalists evinced to invest in British
colonial speculations, and doubted whether such ^ultraiS
an eagerness would exist if less cordial relations
existed between the colonies and the mother
country. There was perhaps a good deal of. senti-

122 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

ment in this, but it could not be doubted that it
existed, and that the idea of repudiation would be
associated with separation.
Descrip- I niust not conclude without a brief description
Rock°-£ °* ^e town. Eockhampton is on the Fitzroy
hampton river, 25 miles from its mouth. Large steamers
have been brought up to this port, but the natural
harbour of Port Alma, at the mouth of the Fitzroy,
offers great advantages. It has been proposed to
connect Port Alma with Eockhampton by railway.
The scheme is not regarded with favour by those
who have vested interests in the vicinity of the
present terminus. From Eockhampton the rail
way has been carried as far as Alice, 326 miles
inland. The people here complain that, in defe
rence to Brisbane influences, the Government has
not pushed the railway with the vigour which
should have been shown.
The population of Eockhampton is 10,000.
streets and The streets are on the usual rectangular plan.
buildings rpjie hidings are chiefly of wood and one-storied.
Banks and hotels are numerous. The public
schools, the grammar school, the hospital, and the
botanic gardens are all creditable to a young
community not a generation old. The attractions
of the place are the fine river and the chains of
hills, wooded to the summit, which traverse this
part of the country, ridge upon ridge extending in
all directions as far as the eye can reach.
Leave August 4. — Weighed anchor at 10 p.m. and
Rock- -,-,-, .
hampton proceeded down the river.

X. — EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 123

August 5. — Anchored from 2 a.m. until 8
a.m., when we weighed and proceeded towards
the mouth of the Fitzroy river. At 10.30 a.m.
made sail to a breeze from the south-east, which
enabled us to make a fine run to the northward.
The east coast of Australia at this season of The east
the year is a perfect cruising ground for yachts- Australia
men, The Great Barrier reef, extending for a Go°'\.
' _ ° yachting
distance of 1,000 miles from Swain Eeefs to Cape water
Ybrke, protects the coast from the heavy swell of
the Pacific. The steady breezes from the south
east are most favourable for sailing, especially in
the direction in which we are steering. At 4 p.m.
we were off Pine Island, a small islet of the
Percy group, on which a light has been established.
From Pine Island onwards to the Whitsunday
Passage the navigation recalls the experiences of
many pleasant summers on the west coast of
Scotland. The inner route, which we followed,
passes between rocks and islands, presenting the
most varied and picturesque forms. The Percy Percy and
Isles form a distant group, extending twenty berland
miles from north to south, and eight miles from s an s
east to west. Many of these islands are covered
with pine-trees. To the westward of the Percy
Isles a still larger group has received the collec
tive name of Northumberland, the several islands
being distinguished by familiar Northumbrian
names. Advancing northwards, at a distance of
some sixty miles from the Percy group, the Cum
berland, Sir James Smith, and Whitsunday groups

124 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

The coast
mountains

WhitsundayPassage

form a continuous archipelago on the eastern side
of the passage. The highest peaks attain an
elevation little short of 1,000 feet. The islands
are for the most part richly wooded. Some peaks
are clothed with timber to the summit, others
are smooth and grassy, a few are bare of vegeta
tion. The rocks are magnificent. Paternoster
rises sheer from the water to a height of more
than 900 feet.
Turning from the sea to the mainland, the
coast range at a short distance inland forms a
continuous barrier, varying in height from 3,000
to upwards of 4,000 feet. At Whitsunday
Passage the line of coast is broken by a noble
promontory. Cape Conway, at its south-eastern
extremity, rises to a height of 1,637 feet. A
chain of peaks extends northwards from Cape
Conway to Mount Drysander, and forms a fine
amphitheatre of hills on the western side of the
Whitsunday Passage. On the eastern side is a
group of islands of larger size than those to the
southward. Whitsunday, the largest of these
islands, is eleven miles in length. It has two
commanding peaks. Its valleys and lowlands are
richly wooded.
Whitsunday Passage is twenty miles in length.
At its narrowest part it is contracted to a breadth
of two miles. On the mainland side the passage
opens out into the fine natural -harbour of Port
Molle. On the eastern side the line of shore is
broken by .the bays of Whitsunday Island, and

X.— ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 125

the channels which divide it from the. smaller
islands, by which it is completely surrounded.
At this interesting part of the Australian coast
the breeze blew fair from the south-east, the sky
was cloudless, the air most balmy. The abun
dant vegetation had been refreshed by recent
showers. Cape Gloucester was reached in about three Anchor off
hours after we had issued from the Whitsunday island^
Passage. Bounding the cape we anchored for
the night close under the land. Shortly after we
had anchored the moon rose from behind Glouces
ter Island. Beaching to a height of 2,000 feet,
the harmonious and graceful curves of the lofty
ridge of the island were seen with beautiful effect
in the dark shadow against the silvery sky.
August 7. — After morning service we weighed.
Under easy sail we crossed the mouth of Edge- proceed
cumbe Bay and anchored in Port Denison-. "" PoT1101
We took a walk ashore through the moribund Denison
settlement of Bowen. Notwithstanding the great Bowen
superiority of its harbour, Bowen has been going
back, while the neighbouring port of Townsville
has been advancing with rapid strides. The ex
planation is not far to seek. Townsville has been
favoured in the essential matter of railways.
Bowen has not yet been accorded the same
advantage. A branch is promised which will con
nect the port with the Townsville line. A heap of
rails has been landed as an earnest on the part of
the Government of their intention to proceed

126 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

with the-works. The land beyond Bowen being
rich, the port will undoubtedly become prosperous
when railway communication is established with
the interior.
At the present time Bowen has scarcely 1,000
inhabitants. It depends mainly on Government
expenditure. There are several resident officials
connected with the court-house, the land-offices,
and postal service. Bowen has a fine pier in good
repair. The registrar of the court was kind enough to
accompany us on our walk. We had a chat on
Prospects the prospects of emigrants in Queensland.
grants to Slender, indeed, are the chances for the middle
land™5 class, with a moderate education, with no capital,
and not brought up to a trade. For men of
capital the opportunities are unbounded. The
crowning instance in the colony is that of Mr.
Tyson, who from a simple shepherd has become a
capitalist of many millions sterling. His profits
have been largely made in buying and selling
stations. For the working man with a trade this
colony also offers rare opportunities.
Proceed August 8. — Weighed at daylight under sail
viiie and made a rapid passage to Townsville. We
covered the distance of 104 miles in ten hours.
August 9. — Walked through Townsville. The
town, which has a population of 12,000, is built
on a tongue of land between the sea and Eoss
Creek. It consists of one main street, containing
banks, public offices, counting-houses, and welh

X. — EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 127
supplied stores and shops. The bustle in the Flourish-
streets and the flourishing and prosperous appear- an^e oFthe
ance everywhere were quite cheering. Townsville town
owes its prosperity to its railway, which is already
opened to a distance of 200 miles into the interior,
and which has made it the port of a large area
of pastoral country and for several promising
goldfields. Townsville is on an open bay, and the shoal The
water extends some two miles from the beach. A
breakwater is in course of construction, and dredg
ing operations are being prosecuted with energy.
By these means the defects of the port will in
course of time be remedied.
We had purposed to make excursions from
Townsville to the fine cattle stations belonging to
Sir Thomas Mcllwraith and to the Charters Towers
goldfields, but my wife was too indisposed to
attempt the journey, and we proceeded in the Proceed
afternoon under sail to Challenger Bay, a fine anchor in
anchorage in the Palm Islands, where we brought challenger
6 ' b Bay
up shortly after sunset.
August 10. — Proceeded under sail to Dunge- Dungeness
ness, at the southern entrance to the Hinchinbrook
Channel. August 11. — Went up the Herbert river, a The
distance of six miles, to the terminus of a tram river**'
road formed by the Colonial Sugar Company to
their mills at Victoria. The Herbert is navigable
only for steam launches and barges. The banks
of the river are flat, and covered with a dense and

128 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Sugar
industry of
Queens
land

picturesque jungle. The whole district is well
adapted for the growth of sugar. No less than
9,600 tons were produced in 1886, and the growth
is steadily increasing.
The aggregate sugar statistics of Queensland
for 1886 were : —

Labour in
the culti
vation of
sugar

Proceed through Rockingham Channel

Area under cane
Area crushed .
Total yield

54,010 acres
34,657 „
58,545 tons

The value may be taken at 19/. 4s. 5d. per
ton. For the cultivation of sugar on the Herbert
both British and coloured labour is employed —
British workmen in the mills, the coloured people
in cutting the cane. Wages for Englishmen range
from twenty-five shillings upwards weekly. We
talked to some of the wives of the workmen.
Several are recent arrivals from Lancashire.
Their dwellings are of the simplest description,
made of corrugated iron or of straw, and scattered
at haphazard in a clearing in the jungle or on the
banks of the river. These pioneers of cultivation
have to lead a hard life and bear many privations.
They seemed not discontented, and were full of
pluck and energy. Their circumstances are those
in which the colonising qualities of the Anglo-
Saxon race come to the front in a marked
manner. August 12. — Weighed at 9 a.m. and pro
ceeded under steam through the Eockingham
Channel, which separates Hinchinbrook, an island

X.— KOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 129
of magnificent mountains, from the mainland.
For a distance of twenty-eight miles the narrow
channel winds in graceful curves between the
coast range of Queensland and the superb peaks
and corries of Hinchinbrook Island. A dense
mass of tropical vegetation covers the level spaces
on either shore, and sometimes ascends to the
topmost ridges of the hills. The higher ground is
for the most part bare of trees. The lines of the
far-extending ridges, projecting buttresses, and
receding corries are the more sharply defined.
The weather was the most favourable that could
have been desired. The sky was clouded, but the
sun at intervals poured down a golden light on
every part of the landscape. These fitful but
brilliant gleams enhanced the effects of shadow.
The higher slopes and precipices were of a rich
purple, and soft and silvery mists crept upwards
through glen and valley, or rested in dense masses
on the tableland above.
We called at Cardwell, a decayed little port, Call at
with some 200 inhabitants. The pier is in ruins.
The settlement was originally formed in the ex
pectation of great results from an adjacent gold-
field, which was soon exhausted. The court
house and the residence of the magistrate and
postmaster are the only relics of an abortive
attempt. We were assured that much of the land in the
neighbourhood is well adapted to the cultivation
of sugar. A large selection has been taken by
VOL. II, K

130 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Proceed to
Mourilyan

Cattle in
Queens land

Visit to
sugar
plantation

Mr. Tyson, but he declines to continue the growth
of sugar, which he had commenced with some
vigour, so long as the planters are threatened with
legislation which will prohibit the employment of
coloured labour.
At Cardwell we were received by the magistrate,
Mr. Walsh, and by the chairman of the local
board. They presented an address of welcome.
After an hour and a half of pleasant conversa
tion we returned on board and steamed to
Mourilyan, a distance of forty miles. The harbour
is small and the entrance only 200 yards wide,
but the depth is sufficient for vessels of size, and
the shelter inside is perfect. A tramway connects
Mourilyan with the mills and plantations of the
Mourilyan Sugar Company. Their business is
prosperous. Mourilyan is completely cut off from the
country inland by the high mountains of the coast
range. Behind those mountains on the upland
pastures are the great stations for horned cattle.
The herds of Queensland already number more
than 4,000,000 head, and the districts to the north
have an advantage over those of the south in the
assured and abundant rainfall.
August 13. — Daylight revealed the extreme
loveliness of the harbour of Mourilyan embosomed
in its richly wooded hills. At 11 we started
on the tramway to the sugar plantations of the
Mourilyan Company, Mr. Nash, one of the
partners, being our kind host. The distance

X.— ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 131
from the harbour to the mills is seven miles. The
tramway has been carried through a dense tropical
jungle. The masses of foliage were rich beyond
description. On our arrival at the mills we lunched and
afterwards visited them. They are situated on
the banks of the Johnson river, but the diffi
culties of navigation are such that it was thought
necessary to connect the plantation with a good
harbour by the tramway which we had traversed,
and upon the construction of which 25,000/. were
expended. The work of clearing the jungle is most
laborious, and therefore costly. The expense of
cutting down timber for the first rough cropping
is 10/. per acre. The complete clearing and cost of
grubbing of roots for the purposes of ploughing ^jJJJj |le
and permanent cultivation is not less than 20/.
an acre. The cost of clearing alone is thus 30/.
an acre. The machinery of the mills, of Scotch
manufacture, cost more than 60,000/. Some 900
acres have been brought under cultivation. The
total capital already expended may be taken at
200,000/. The yield of sugar is from five to three
tons per acre. The price may be taken at 20/.
per ton. The production of sugar last year was
2,050 tons.
The successful results of labour imported from Javanese
Java are a special feature at Mourilyan. We a our
heard an excellent character of the Javanese
workpeople. They are sturdy and most docile.
K 2

132 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Importedlabournecessary

Leave Mourilyan

CapeKimberley

They are imported here for a term of three years,
under strict engagements with the Dutch Govern
ment. An advance of two to three pounds is
given to each workman before he leaves home.
His fare costs 6/. to Queensland. His wages are
30s. a month and found. A system of supervision
by Javanese seraigns has been found to answer
admirably. Javanese are employed to drive loco
motives, and for the management of the boilers
and most of the machinery in the mills.
In the event of a legislative prohibition of the
employment of imported labour, it would be im
practicable for planters to carry on the cultivation
of sugar on a large scale. The sugar would be
grown by small cultivators, who would bring their
produce to the mills to be crushed and refined.
Be the contributors many or be they few, the mills
could only be established by a large expenditure
of capital. We steamed out of Mourilyan on a glorious
evening. Outside the harbour a light breeze was
blowing from the south-east, to which we made
sail. At midnight we passed through the narrow
channel which divided the Frankland Islands
from the mainland at Cape Grefton.
August 14. — A perfect day. The wind was
light, and we stole quietly along under balloon
canvas. The scenery of the coast is magnificent.
At sunset we were off Cape Kimberley. At this
point the massive wall of the coast range of
Northern Queensland is broken by the valley of

X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN

133

the Daintree and by deep ravines, which penetrate
into the furthest recesses of the hills. Eidge
could be seen rising beyond ridge, and peak beyond
peak, invested with the rich colours of the after
glow in the tropics. As night approached the
mists and clouds gathered on the topmost ridges
assumed a darker hue. The sky became grey and
silver, the distant coast a tender violet. In lovely Coast
majesty the summit of the Peter Botte Mountain
towered above the clouds.
August 15. — Proceeding during the night with
a favourable breeze, we threaded the narrows
off Point Archer. Shortly before dawn on
August 15 we were off Cooktown. At 8 a.m. we Arrive at
, -, • , ,-i -i i Cooktown
steamed into the harbour. Analysis of Log
Bockluimpton to Cooktown

Sail

Steam

Bemarks

August 6

214

43

Anchored in Edgeeumbe
Bay

7

77

—

Anchored off Bowen

8

50

—

„ 9

64

—

,, off Townsville

„ 10

43

—

„ in Challenger
Bay, Palm Island

„ H

22

—

Anchored off Dungeness,
Rockingham Channel

„ 12

—

24

Called at Cardwell

„ 13

—

46

Arrived off Mourilyan

,. 14

67

4

„ 15

75

8

;

612
125
!
Total distance from
Portsmouth
12,480
8,654
Total, 21,134 miles
134 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Cooktown

Buildingsand popu
lation

H.M.S. ( Harrier '

XI. — COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND
Cooktown is picturesquely situated in an amphi
theatre of hills, of which Mount Cook is the most
considerable. The small port is formed by the
mouth of the Endeavour river. Here Captain
Cook beached his vessel for repairs after serious
injuries sustained on coral reefs in the vicinity.
Cooktown is well laid out, and there are abun
dant indications that larger and more substantial
buildings will rapidly be substituted for the pro
visional structures of which the town at present
mainly consists. The population is 2,500. The
Palmer river gold diggings and some recent dis
coveries of tin, have attracted a large number of
miners. A railway will shortly connect Cooktown
with the gold mines. A section of thirty-two
miles has been already opened.
From Cooktown the mails for New Guinea are
carried regularly by H.M.S. ' Harrier,' a schooner
yacht purchased by the Admiralty. The vessel is
under the command of Lieutenant Pike, a dash
ing officer, who succeeds in maintaining an
average speed at sea of nearly ten knots, and
fearlessly and skilfully penetrates the Barrier reef
through channels never surveyed or laid down on
the charts.
The crew of the ' Harrier ' lead a very different
life from that on board the ironclad from which a

XI. — COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 135
number have lately been drawn for this service. Arduous
At sea these men are subjected to much discom
fort, which they face with highly creditable pluck.
I have often alluded to the excessive length of
commissions in the British Navy. Men should
certainly not remain in the ' Harrier ' more than
two years.
By the advice of the Mayor, we drove out
three miles on the only road practicable for
wheeled conveyances. We were fully rewarded
by the picturesque view of the town, the harbour,
the river, the coast range, Mount Cook, and the
blue sea in the distance.
August 17. — We sailed from Cooktown at Cooktown
8 a.m. The inner passage from Cooktown to
Thursday Island is sheltered from the heaving
waves of the Pacific by the natural breakwater of
the Great Barrier reef. We were carried forward inside the
¦ ii Great
at a speed varying from eight to twelve knots an Barrier
hour by the south-east trade wind. We felt the
full force of the favourable breeze, unaccompanied
by the slightest motion. Along the whole line of
the inner passage the navigation is intricate, and
demands ceaseless watchfulness.
With the aid of good charts, and in the broad
daylight, the navigation presents but little diffi
culty. By night the risks are greatly increased. ^1®°ulty
The track recommended by the Admiralty has navigation
been minutely examined, but small heads of coral
may be missed even after a diligent search. New
dangers are from time to time reported on the

136 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
narrow track usually followed by shipping. Great
pains have been devoted by Commander Heath,
EN., at the head of the Marine Department of
the Queensland Government, in marking out the
sunken reefs and rOcks by beacons. Three light
ships have been placed at difficult points in the
channel affording great assistance to the naviga-
More light- tion. More are urgently needed, but it would
needed be unreasonable to look for further expenditure
from the Queensland Government. The high
way is equally valuable to the trade of all the
Australian colonies both with China and the
mother country, and if more is to be "done the
expense should be met from a common fund.
The steamers using this route usually employ
pilots, and for night navigation their services are
indispensable, but 1 felt that my nautical honour
was involved in navigating the ' Sunbeam ' with
out assistance.
On the first day after leaving Cooktown we
made a comparatively short run of eighty miles,
anchoring in the afternoon" under the low coral
Land on a islan<ls 0f the Howick group. We went ashore
coral island _ ° -1-
on one of the islands for an hour. The beach
is of coral formation. The island is covered with
a dense growth of mangroves. We picked up
some shells, shot a few birds, and examined a
native encampment near the shore. The huts
were formed of sticks and thatch, the end facing
the prevailing trade wind being closed. The
native architecture at its best is of the bird's-nest

XI. — COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 137

order. The debris stripped from a wreck was
lying round the huts.
August 18. — Weighed at 5.30 a.m., and scudded
before the brisk trade wind until an horn-
after sunset, when we anchored close by the Anchor off
. . Claremont
Claremont Island lightship, under the shelter island
of a coral reef. The distance covered was 118
miles. The coast which we passed to-day was remark- The coast
able for an isolated range of mountains formed of
basaltic columns. These mountains rise at a
short distance south of Cape Grenville. To the
north of the cape the passage recommended skirts
a group of islands, named after the great hydro-
grapher Captain Flinders, bare of vegetation
but beautiful in the form and colouring of the
rocks. August 19. — Went on board the ' Claremont '
lightship. The master, a Swede, and his wife, a The occu-
Dane, have been five years in the vessel. They the 'Ciare-
are allowed a month's leave every year, but only JjjXtshi
avail themselves of the privilege in alternate years.
Their rare visits to Brisbane are not an unmixed
pleasure. They soon grow tired of the life of
cities ; as the good wife put it, ' There is too much
talk.' The cheerfulness with which a life of
isolation is endured by these good people is a
lesson to the dull and discontented. The wife
was radiant with the happy spirit of contentment.
Her cabin was a model of neatness. They had a
large collection of corals on board, which they

138 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
most liberally presented to us. Another distrac
tion is found in painting, by no means discredit
ably, landscapes on sea-shells. The lightships
are visited by the local service mail steamers once
a fortnight.
a coral "We pulled from the lightship to the reef. It
is a bare heap of sand and coral, save on its high
est part, where a few tufts of coarse grass are
growing. Here we found a native of St. John,
New Brunswick, brought up, as he told us, by
foreign parents, engaged in the business of col
lecting beches-de-mer, or dried sea-slugs, for
which there is a large demand in China. This
white man had in his employ thirty natives. He
had five fine boats, which are constantly at work
a strange inside the Great Barrier reef. The money em-
apphcation . .. .
of capital barked in this enterprise had been advanced by a
bank at Cooktown. How little do depositors in
banks realise the manifold applications of the
capital which they have been instrumental in
providing ! The solitary white man surrounded
by natives carries his life in his hands. Instances
of treacherous attack during sleep are numerous
and probably provoked by harsh and cruel treat
ment.
Bcchcs-de- Beches-de-mer command a high price. We
were shown the accumulated casks full of this
unattractive edible, representing a value of many
industry hundreds of pounds. The head of this establish-
under \
difficulties ment was living miserably in a shelter formed of
tattered canvas and battered sheets of corrugated

XI. — COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 139
iron. His food was of the rudest. His dress was
ragged. The pest of flies was intolerable. It
was evident that he had the power of command
and organisation, and that he was not without
education. He produced the Admiralty charts of
the coast and Barrier reef, with large additions to
the delineation of the reefs from his own explora
tions. We weighed at 11.30, and anchored under the
Piper Islands an hour after sunset. Distance, Pi,Pei"
*- t Islands
eighty-five miles.
August 20. — Weighed at 5.30 a.m. Bounded
Cape Grenville and the adjacent group of islands
at a tearing pace, with a strong trade wind on the
beam. From this point to the entrance of the
Albany Pass, a distance of sixty miles, the sterility y^jj*tof
of the coast is truly appalling. It consists of bare
and burnt up sand-hills, red cliffs, and black
volcanic hills. The pass is a narrow strait, three
miles in length and a little more than half a mile
wide, separating Albany Island from the north
eastern corner of the great Australian continent.
The tides run through the pass at six knots an
hour. As we were heading the tide we boldly
entered the pass under sail, and made a running
moor in the slight indentation of the island shore
designated on the charts as Port Albany. The Anchor at
scenery of the pass is pleasing. The shore on Albany
either hand is hilly and well wooded.
On the mainland a small Government establish
ment was formerly maintained and garrisoned

140 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

The
Jardines

Somerset

Leave Port
Albany

with marines. This settlement has been trans
ferred to Thursday Island. The old mess-house
is now occupied as a cattle station by Mr. Jardine.
The Jardines originally came up to Somerset from
Eockhampton some twenty-five years ago. North
Queensland was in those days an undiscovered
country. The journey occupied a year and a half.
The difficulties in bringing herds of cattle through
a vast region with no known tracks, and full of
hostile and treacherous natives, may readily be
conceived. A visit to these countries can alone
enable the dwellers in settled and civilised lands
to realise the hardships and privations endured by
pioneers. August 21. — In the afternoon visited the
station at Somerset. Had a thorough drenching
in crossing the pass. The south-east trade blows
through with the force of a gale, and when the
tide is ebbing, a short sea gets up, which is much
felt in a small boat. Eeturning from the main
land we landed on Albany Island. It is not
cultivated, but cattle find some scanty pasture.
August 22. — Sailed across to the Thursday
Island group. The navigation is simplicity itself
as compared with the narrow channels between
sunken rocks and reefs through which we have
been threading our way from Cooktown. The
dangers even here were illustrated by the wreck
of a fine barque which we passed high and dry on
the north-west reef.
The reefs round Thursday Island afford a

XL— COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 141

tempting opportunity for the perpetration of those
rascalities of the sea which will never cease so long Eascaiities
as the owners of ships are allowed to insure for the o£ the sea
full, or more than the full, value of their property. A
recent instance has occurred in the case of a barque,
under Austrian colours, which we had met both at
Adelaide and Newcastle. In the broad daylight
the vessel was deliberately steered on to a reef,
scuttled, and abandoned by the master. He took
with him a portion of his crew, leaving eleven
Englishmen on board. He made for Thursday
Island, and sold the ship and her cargo of 1,800
tons of coal for 51. The vessel was got off at a
cost of 30/., and is now lying at Thursday Island.
We entered Normanby Sound from the western Normanby
entrance and therefore against the south-east
monsoon. Here for the first time since leaving
Cooktown we made use of steam. Our average
speed under sail, since we reached the zone of the
trade winds, has exceeded ten knots an hour.
The eastern coast of Australia, which we were
now quitting after so many weeks of interesting
navigation, is classic ground for the seaman from
its associations with Captain Cook, its first
discoverer, to whose happy faculty of nomenclature Nomen-
are due the appropriate names which have ever CoasTby°
since been retained for the most prominent parts. c^m
On his voyage from New Zealand in 1770 Captain
Cook first struck the east coast of Australia at
Point Hicks, so named from the first lieutenant of
the 'Endeavour,' who first sighted it. Steering

142 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
northwards, a fancied resemblance to the animal
suggested the name of Mount Dromedary. The
name Point Upright was given because the land
rose in a perpendicular cliff. A remarkable peaked
hill, which resembles a square dove-house with a
dome at the top, was called the Pigeon House.
Cape George was first seen on St. George's Day.
Eed Point indicates the colour of the land about
it. The great quantity of plants collected
suggested the name of Botany Bay. Cape Three
Points was so called because some lands projected
in three bluff points. Three hills bearing some
resemblance to each other were called the Three
Brothers. A point on which fires were seen that
produced a great quantity of smoke became Smoky
Cape. A peaked mountain, which indicated the
position of dangerous shoals, was called Mount
Warning. The extremity of the shoals is Point
Danger. Sandy Cape received its name from two
large patches of white sand, and Break Sea Spit
because inside it Captain Cook found smooth water.
In Bustard Bay he was regaled with the best bird
he had eaten since he left England. Cape Capricorn
lies directly under the tropics of that name. Cape
Manifold was so called from the number of high
hills which appeared over it. Thirsty Sound is
an inlet which afforded no fresh water. Whit
sunday Passage was discovered on Whitsunday.
Near Magnetical Isle it was perceived that the
compass did not traverse well. " Trinity Bay was
discovered on Trinity Sunday. Cape Tribulation

XI. — COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 143

was the last land seen before the ' Endeavour '
struck on a coral reef, on which she was nearly
lost, and the river in which she was refitted is
called the Endeavour river. The disappointment
at not finding a passage to the northward was
commemorated in the name given to Cape Flat
tery. Going ashore to a high point to obtain a
distant view of the coast, Captain Cook called it
Point Lookout. A conspicuous island on the
present inner route to the Torres Straits was called
Lizard Island, because no other animals were seen.
The islands which, by their position, enable the
navigators of to-day to pass through the Barrier reef
by the channel discovered by Captain Cook, were
named Direction Islands. The list could be con
tinued to an indefinite length. The names com
memorate — as it is fitting that they should — the
daring adventures and trying experiences of the
bold and skilful navigator, the precise observer
and admirable leader of men to whose explorations
Britain owes the creation of those new Britains
which already constitute so large a portion of the
Empire, and which have before them such a
splendid future.
Thursday Island belongs to a group divided . Thursday
from the continent of Australia by the Endeavour
Strait. The Prince of Wales Channel, which is
the best passage between the Pacific and the
Eastern Archipelago, forms the boundary of the
group to the north. From this channel the islands
derive their name and their commercial importance:

144 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Traffic
throughTorres Straits

Theanchorageand de
fence of
ThursdayIsland

The Torres Straits route is the most direct between
Australian ports and Canton, and between the
Queensland ports and Europe. In 1884, 397 ships,
aggregating 302,029 tons, passed Coode Island
through the Prince of Wales Channel.
The anchorage off Thursday Island is com
modious and safe, with depth sufficient for vessels
drawing twenty-three feet. Sir John Coode.
recommended that the coaling station should be
removed from Thursday Island to Coode Island,
and that the anchorage in Bertie Bay should bo
protected by a breakwater. A large expenditure
would be necessary, and there does not appear any
adequate reason for the change. On the other
hand, there should be no hesitation or delay in
incurring the expenditure required to protect the
stores of coal at Thursday Island from the raids
of hostile cruisers. The position is so essentially
an Imperial concern that the whole charge cannot
fairly be thrown upon Queensland. The amount
to be provided is inconsiderable. Light guns and
earthworks would be a sufficient defence. The
garrison should be furnished from the marines, as
proposed for King George's Sound.
Thursday Island and the adjacent group may
be compared with the Orkneys. The resem
blance is great in the distribution of land and
water and. in the hydrographical conditions gene
rally. It disappears when you gain the shore,
and contrast the roadless waste and improvised
dwellings of corrugated iron with the trim streets,

XL— COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 145
solid structures, and pervading comfort of Kirk
wall. The population of Thursday Island numbers Population
some 400 in the little settlement and 2,000 in the austry'of
district. The island is the centre of a pearl-shelling the lsland
industry, which last year yielded 572 tons, valued
at 70,602/. A temporary falling off has taken place
owing to the removal of a number of boats to the
north-west coast of Australia. During the pre
valence of the south-east monsoon the waters on
the north-west coast are sheltered, while the
Torres Straits are exposed to an almost incessant
gale. In the north-west monsoon the conditions
are reversed. The Torres Straits are sheltered.
The fishery on the north-west coast becomes
impracticable. Hurricanes, such as recently
caused a disastrous loss on the west coast of
Australia, are not felt in the straits. Attention
has now been directed to the coasts of New
Guinea, where large beds> of pearl shell have been
discovered. This fishery can be carried on from
Thursday Island.
The pearl-shelling industry is prosecuted by The pearl
several firms mostly located at Sydney, and jkfjulmg
represented at Thursday Island by agents, who
have retired from commands in the merchant
service. Each firm has an establishment on shore
where the shells are cleaned and packed for
exportation, and repairs to boats and diving
apparatus are effected. The boats are under the
command of the divers, many of whom are
VOL. II. L

146 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN I886-87

LeaveThursdayIsland

Throughthe
Flinders ge

Anchor off
Yorke
Island

coloured men. The crews are recruited from
Manilla, the South Sea Islands, and the Eastern
Archipelago. The divers are down from three to
four hours a day. They earn from 300/. to 400/.
a year. Seven fathoms is the best depth of water
in which they can work. Twenty-three fathoms
is an extreme depth.
August 25. — Weighed at daylight and pro
ceeded under steam for a cruise of exploration in
the great North-east Channel, which is generally
used by ships bound from the Pacific to India, the
Archipelago, and China.
We went out through the Flinders Passage.
As we entered the open waters we encountered a
short choppy sea, more distressing to landsmen
than the longer billows of the open ocean. The
North-east Channel has deep water, and the water
space is ample for daylight navigation, but innu
merable reefs and islands lie in the track, affording
protection from the ocean waves, but calling for
constant care and watchfulness. The day was
passed in taking cross-bearings and reconnoitring
from aloft. We anchored shortly after sunset
under the lee of Yorke Island, distant from
Thursday Island ninety miles.
The sailing directions are full of warnings as to
the hostility of the natives. This is no longer to
be apprehended. All the islands in this part of
the Pacific have been declared under the protec
torate of the Government of Queensland. They
are frequently visited by the resident at Thursday

XL— COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 147
Island. The chiefs of the several islands have
been supplied with boats to enable them to render
assistance to vessels in difficulties.
August 26. — Weighed at daylight : at 10 a.m. Proceed
anchored in an excellent roadstead under the lee ofldDM-niey
of Darnley Island. This island differs from those islan«i
passed in our navigation yesterday, which were
mostly low and of coral formation. Darnley
Island is volcanic, its highest peak rising to a
height of 610 feet. From its elevation it forms a
valuable guiding mark for shipping entering the
North-east Channel. This island is a smaller
Tahiti, with the characteristic vegetation of a
tropical island — palms and bamboos — on the
higher ground. On the shore each indentation of
the land has its grove of cocoa-nuts and its pictu
resque collection of native huts.
Mr. Milman, the Government Commissioner
at Thursday Island, was kind enough to embark
in charge of our expedition, and we had as a pas
senger Mrs. Hunt, the wife of a missionary who
has just arrived from England, and who is pro
ceeding to the mission station on Murray Island,
On landing the marks of British authority were Land on
promptly displayed. The natives who ran the
boat ashore through the surf wore ribbons
inscribed with the words 'Water Police.' On the
beach were two other natives, gaily attired in the
uniform of the Queensland Native Police.
The natives are now thoroughly peaceable. Progress of
Native teachers have been sent to every inhabited L 2

148 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Murray Island and
work of
LondonMissionary Society

Missionary
work in
New Guinea

island from the central station at Murray Island.
Christianity is universally professed. AVe met at
Darnley the missionary vessel from Murray
Island. Mr. Savage, who has been alone at
Murray for the last thirteen months, was on
board. Murray Island is a central station established
by the London Missionary Society for the train
ing of native teachers, chiefly volunteers from the
South Sea Islands. When fully prepared for
their work these teachers are distributed to the
islands adjacent in the North-east Channel, or on
the Fly river in New Guinea, which is worked
from Murray. Further east the missions of New
Guinea are administered from Port Moresby.
Opinions differ as to the practical success of the
missionaries. The condition of Darnley Island is
a proof of their success. In Treachery Bay, in
1793, a party landing from a New South Wales
vessel met the tragic fate which is suggested
in the name, To-day we were received by the
people with touching cordiality, and saw on all
sides the indications of material well-being already
described. The improvement is the work of the
missionaries. AVe spent a day at Darnley, lunching under
some shady trees by the simple building used as
the church, and had many friendly talks with the
natives. AVe heard from Mr. Savage and Mr.
Hunt the experiences of missionary work in New
Guinea. The beginnings in this as in everything

XL— COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 149
are the hard part. The native teachers in New
Guinea are in constant jeopardy, yet when they
perish there is never any lack of volunteers in the
South Sea Islands, who come in a spirit of
Christian heroism to take the place of their
martyred brethren.
The natives at Darnley Island are a fine race The
, • -n t i -, P ,-, natives of
physically, and immensely m advance ot the Darnley
natives of Australia in intelligence and civilisation. Island
They cultivate methodically the yam and the
sweet potato. They possess poultry and pigs.
Their huts are excellent and their clothing good.
English is widely known. Their manner is most
friendly. The beche-de-mer fishery is carried
on from this island by several South Sea Islanders
who possess good boats for the purpose.
August 27. — Eeturned to Thursday Island Return to
Thursday
from Darnley. The distance is 115 miles. We island
made the passage under sail at an average speed
of eleven knots, and brought up after sunset in the
Flinders Passage, under the lee of Horn Island.
We have now thoroughly explored the two
main passages converging at the Torres Strait
from the outer waters of the wide Pacific.

XII. — PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND THE CAPE
The ' Sunbeam ' arrived at Port Darwin on Sep- Arrive at
tember 6, under such circumstances as render it Darwin
impossible to offer any description from personal
observation. Some extracts may, however, be

150 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
given from a lecture delivered in Adelaide on May
19, 1887, by Mr. Parsons, the Government Eesi-
dent.
Descrip- Palmerston, the name given to the settlement
Palmer- at Port Darwin, is beautifully situated on wooded
ParaonSMr' headlands, jutting out into the harbour, in whose
ample waters it is no figure of speech to say the
navies of Europe could be anchored. The build
ings have been erected with considerable taste. A
fine esplanade has been laid out along the sea front.
The electric wire connects Palmerston with all the
great colonies of Australia. In constructing the
overland telegraph from South Australia, a great
middle section of the continent was discovered,
capable of producing pasture for tens of millions
of sheep and millions of cattle and horses. The
first section from the north, of what will eventu
ally be the Trans-Australian Eailway, has been
commenced, and is being carried out with energy
by Messrs. Miller, the well-known Melbourne con
tractors for public works.
Area, &c. ipjjg total area of the northern territory of South
ot northern . .
territory Australia is 523,620 square miles. Within this
Australia vast expanse are stony wastes and waterless tracts,
vast rolling downs, wide grassy plains, rich allu
vial flats, large navigable rivers, and metalliferous
areas, exceptionally rich in tin, coal, copper, and
silver. Thus far mining has been more successful
than agriculture. The Chinese have alone been
able to accomplish anything in cultivation. They
have gathered harvests of rice and sugar cane from

XII. — PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 151
the limited areas which they have taken in hand.
On the banks of the rivers coffee could be grown
in many places.
The climate is tropical, and malaria with its climate
fever and ague is prevalent. The mean tempera
ture of the year is 75 degrees, and the thermometer
has never been seen lower than 68 degrees. The
atmosphere is dank, steamy, and heavy with
moisture during the wet season, and dry, parching,
and malarial during the dry season.
Port Darwin is the nearest point of communica- p0rt
tion by cable and mail steamer with the civilised arwm
world. From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, Leave Port
and thence to Sierra Leone, the voyage lay for the arrlvl'at"
most part within the zone of the south-east trades. MaulltlU3
Eodriguez Island was sighted on September 26,
and Mauritius was reached on September 29. It
is a painful task to attempt to describe scenes
which might have been painted with brighter
touches by another writer. To give the daily life,
which, needless to say, was very sad, I will not
attempt. Mauritius is one of the few ports in which
sailing ships still hold the field against steamers.
It was filled with a noble fleet. As a mark of
sympathy, which touched us deeply, their flags
were hoisted at half-mast as soon as our sad in
telligence became known. p Lou.g
Viewed from the anchorage of Port Louis, the View from
• ¦ e 'ne ancho-
lsland of Mauritius presents a scene ot much rage

152 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
.beauty. A chain of peaks and craters of pictu
resque and fantastic forms runs through the island
from end to end. The needle-shaped Peter Botte,
2,784 feet, and the Pouce, 2,707 feet, are con
spicuous summits. All the mountains are of
volcanic formation. Their barren precipices are
blue and purple, and their vegetation, watered by
frequent and abundant showers, is of the richest
green. The landscape displayed admirable effects
of colour, varying with every change from rain to
sunshine.
Botanical The Botanical Gardens and the Observatory
are the most interesting objects which Port.Louis
offers to the passing traveller. The gardens are
lovely. The lakes, surrounded by palm trees and
a most rich and abundant tropical vegetation, are a
charming feature. The fine and rare specimens
in the gardens included the Traveller's tree,
abounding in water, the Euffia palm from
Madagascar, the lettuce-headed palm, the talipot
palm, the Latania aurea from Eodriguez, and
another variety of Latania from Eound Island.
The Obser- The Observatory, under the supervision of Dr.
Meldrum, is chiefly devoted to meteorological and
astronomical investigations. In addition to these
subjects, observations of the solar spots are taken
daily, and transmitted monthly to the Solar
Physics Committee in London. The transit of the
moon has been observed with much success. -Sea
observations from the log books of vessels touch
ing at Mauritius are carefully recorded. The

vatory

XII.— PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 153
tracks and positions at noon of 299 tropical
cyclones, which swept over the Indian Ocean
south of the Equator from 1856 to 1886, have been
laid down on charts, and are ready for publication.
The in-curving theory of cyclones, as worked out
by Dr. Meldrum, is now generally adopted, and it
would appear that the rules given for the guidance
of ships in the Southern Indian Ocean have
been the means of saving much life and property.
On the second day of our short stay we paid a
quiet visit to the acting Governor. The recent
political convulsions in Mauritius, in connection Political
with Sir John Pope-Hennessy, had by no means in Mauri-
subsided. During his leave of absence the tms
Governor was being represented, with admirable
tact and judgment, by Mr. Fleming, who had
already succeeded in establishing amicable re
lations with both sides. The Creole population
of Mauritius, though only in a slight degree of
French descent, yet speak in patois, and take a
certain pride in claiming a French nationality.
Considerable jealousy exists between the English
and French residents in Mauritius. This has
been unfortunately increased by the proceedings
of Sir John Pope-Hennessy. The mass of the
population of Mauritius are of mixed race,
descendants of the coolies employed on the
plantations. French — or rather patois — speaking
Creoles come next in point of numbers. The
Chinese are the universal shopkeepers.
Being about to cross a stormy part of the

Wind re
cord for
six years

154 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87
ocean, I asked for information at the Observatory,
and was at once supplied with the following return.
I give it as evidence of the great number of facts,
of value to seamen, which have been brought
together : —
Gales to the southward of Mauritius in October, during the last
six years, as far as is known

Ye firs

Days

Latitude

Longitude

Remarks

October

1881
7-10
33°-43°
24°-54°
Strong gale
))
21-24
35°-38°
23°-49°
I) n
J)
23-31
34°-40°
14°-40°
Strong gale, heavy rain and
thunder
Whole gale
1882
1- 4
33°-41°
27°-57°
))
7-12
34°-39°
14°-39°
Whole gale, hail and light
ning
)»
23-27
34°-38°
16°-37°
Strong gale
1883
3- 8
32°-41°
37°-86°
,j >)
)»
9-12
35°-40°
31°-74°
>» »>
))
23-31
35°-39°
17°-48°
>» »»
It
25-27
29°-22°
52°-56°
), »»
1884
1- 2
36°-37°
46°-50°
Whole gale
,,
9-12
36°-40"
8°-19°
Strong gale
>»
22-26
36°-37°
46°_54°
)» >i
28-30
37°-38°
33°-4l°
Whole gale
1885
1- 4
30°-38°
8°-40°
f Strong gale, thunder and
\ lightning
»)
11-12
29°-38°
25°-33°
Heavy gale
)l
19-20
35°-38°
18°-22°
Strong gale and heavy rain
1886
5-10
36°-40°
40°-54°
Furious westerly gale
n
22-23
38°-39a
32°-36°
Strong gale
,,
23-25
40°-41°
13°-24°
»» )»
n
29-30
38°-39°
38°-48°
»i j)
Note. — Most of the above gales were south of latitude 34°. There
are similar data for each month since 1848.
Later in the day we ascended the Pouce. It
commands a view over the harbour of Port Louis
and the interior of the island, The broad and
XII. — PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 155

shallow valleys, green with sugar cane, reminded
us much of our own South Downs. From the
Pouce we drove to the residence of a relative, who
is the owner of extensive sugar cane plantations.
The staple industry of Mauritius is the cultivation
of sugar. More than 100,000 tons are annually The sugar
exported. India and Australia are the chief the island
markets. The bounty on the production of sugar
in France and Germany has driven the sugar of
Mauritius altogether out of Europe. Mauritius
received a heavy blow from the opening of the
Suez Canal, but it still possesses abundant re
sources. The wealth of the island may in some
degree be measured by its public revenue, which
amounts to no less than 700,000/. a year. Mauri
tius produces scarcely anything required for its
own consumption. It imports rice from India,
grain from Australia, oxen from Madagascar, and
sheep from the Cape.
Our last morning at Port Louis was devoted
to the defences and the docks. Progress is being Defences
made with the improvement of existing defences o"po°tckB
and the construction of new forts. The works are Louis
well advanced, and the guns are promised shortly
from home. Mauritius possesses three graving
docks. The Albion Dock could be readily enlarged
to receive a ship of war. It would be a wise policy
on the part of the Government to assist in the
work. The passage from Port Louis to Algoa Bay Leave
occupied eleven days. To the southward of the Mauritius

156 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Arrive at
PortElizabethThe town
of Port
Elizabeth

Trade with
Kimberley.
Diamonds

Trades, off tlie coast of Natal, a short but severe
gale from the south-west was encountered. The
gale was followed by a fresh breeze from the east,
which carried the ' Sunbeam ' rapidly to Port
Elizabeth, arriving October 12. Port Elizabeth
from the sea has the aspect of a small Brighton.
On landing it presents many indications of pros
perity in its pier, railway station, municipal
buildings, streets, shops, and excellently appointed
and hospitable club. The residential quarter is
happily situated on elevated ground, swept by
refreshing breezes from the ocean. A large space
is covered with good houses and well-kept lawns.
The public gardens are a great feat of horticulture.
The arid and sterile soil has been converted by
liberal irrigation into a green oasis, containing
groves of palms and a varied tropical vegetation.
The anchorage is protected from all winds except
those from the south-east.
The prosperity of this active commercial cen
tre is due to the trade carried on with Kimberley,
of which it is the port. The value of the diamonds
produced at Kimberley was estimated for 1883 at
2,359,000/. ; 1884, 2,562,000/. ; 1885, 2,228,000/. ;
and 1886, 3,261,000/. As yet, the price per carat
shows no tendency to decline. The work of mining
for diamonds gives employment to a large amount
of well-paid labour. Some 2,000 white employes
are engaged at an average wage of 5/. 9s. per week.
Twelve thousand coloured men are working under
their direction, their earnings exceeding 1 /. per week .

XII. — PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 157

Port Elizabeth is the chief entrepot for ostrich Sale of
feathers. The value of this article of export for feathers
1886 was over half a million sterling. The process
of selling the feathers by auction is one of the most
singular business transactions at which it has been
my lot to assist. One of the buyers in attendance,
on the occasion of our visit, represented a London
firm, and is said to be making an income of over
1,000/. per year. A spirited effort is being made to
establish an entrepot for the Cape wines at Port
Elizabeth. We visited the extensive cellars under
the public market, in which a company has opened
a business, which it is intended to conduct in
accordance with the most approved methods
of treatment in the wine growing districts of
Europe. A day was spent at Port Elizabeth, and two
days of rapid sailing before an easterly wind Leave
brought the ' Sunbeam ' into Table Bay on the Elizabeth.
morning of October 15, just in time to gain the in Table
anchorage before one of the hard gales from the Bay
south-east, which are not unfrequently experienced
at the Cape, set in. Between Port Darwin and
the Cape the distance covered was 1,047 knots
under steam, and 5,622 knots under sail. The
average speed under steam and sail was exactly
eight knots. In the fortnight, October 13 to 27,
3,073 knots, giving an average speed of nine knots
an hour, were covered under sail alone, with winds
of moderate strength. Balloon canvas was freely
used.

158 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Table Mountain

Breakwater in
Tabic Bay

Table Mountain is admirably described by
Htibner as a mighty buttress confronting the rest
less billows of the Southern Ocean. It was covered
on the morning of our arrival with the beautiful
wreaths of mist which have so often excited the
admiration of travellers. A strong south-east
gale was blowing on the occasion. When these
winds prevail they drive the vapours from the
ocean over the flat summit of Table Mountain,
whence they descend like a veil floating in the air,
and covering with graceful folds the steep precipices
of its northern face.
Table Mountain presents to the dwellers in
Cape Town a scene of beauty which changes from
hour to hour. Every veering of the wind brings
some new yet ever graceful adjustment of a man
tle of vapour, seldom cast aside, which is some
times silver, sometimes purple, and from time to
time subdued to a sombre tone by an approaching
fall of rain.
In former years many and disastrous were the
losses of life and property in Table Bay. Gales
from the N.W. and the N.N.E. are frequent in the
winter, and blow occasionally with resistless fury.
In the old sailing days ships caught at anchor in
the Bay by one of these terrible storms were
doomed to destruction. By the enterprise of the
Colonial Government, and the skilful engineering
of Sir John Coode, a wide area of sheltered
anchorage is now afforded. The breakwater has
been extended to a length of 560 yards, and a

XII. — PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 159
further extension is far advanced, which will give
a total length of breakwater of 1,500 yards.
A wet dock has been formed, capable of a large
receiving the largest steamers in the ocean mail
service and broad enough for an ironclad. The
principal dimensions are — length, 500 feet; breadth,
20 feet ; depth, 26 feet. An outer harbour, 44
acres in extent, will be gradually formed under the
protection of the breakwater. When these works
are completed, Cape Town will afford advantages
to shipping such as are scarcely exceeded in any
port of Great Britain.
Cape Town contains not a few buildings of Cape Town
which the inhabitants of an older capital might
justly be proud. The House of Assembly is a noble
structure. The admirably kept and beautifully
situated Observatory, the banks, the railway sta
tion, and the docks are all excellent. The Botani
cal Gardens, and the shady avenue dividing them
from Government House, would add a charm to
the finest capital in Europe.
As an instance of successful private enterprise,
I may quote the large wholesale and retail esta
blishment of Messrs. Thorne & Stuttaford, Estabiish-
founded by two enterprising men who commenced Messrs!
their career at the Cape thirty years ago as shop gth°trt"f0*d
assistants. It has grown into a great emporium,
containing over 35,000/. worth of goods, and with
branch establishments at all the principal towns
in Cape Colony.
Considerable as are the attractions of Cape

160 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Town they are far exceeded by the charm of its
The sub- beautiful suburbs, extending for some miles along
urbsof ^he foot of Table Mountain on its eastern side.
Cape Town The country is richly wooded, chiefly with our own
English trees, and abounds with pleasant buildings,
surrounded by gardens bright with the flowers of
the summer of our Northern latitudes. The scene
recalls the most favoured part of Surrey. The
cantonments of the troops at Wynberg, on a well-
wooded plateau, have all the lovely features of an
English park.
visit to We made an excursion with Sir Gordon Sprigg
onstantia an(j ^jg famjiy ^0 Constantia, where the Govern
ment have purchased an old Dutch manor house,
and are cultivating the vine under the superinten
dence of Baron Von Babo, with the view of pro
ducing wines on the most approved European
sir Gordon principles. Our host has made one of those inter -
1 ' esting and honourable careers for which colonial
life offers so many opportunities to those who
know how to use them. He began life in the
gallery of the House of Commons, as a reporter of
debates, in the days of Cobden. As Premier of a
Colonial Parliament, he has had an opportunity
of applying the maxims of political wisdom
gathered from a close observation of our own
Parliamentary proceedings.
Visit to Another excursion was made to Stellenbosch,
bosch"" a characteristic example of the old Dutch towns
of the Cape Colony. We were under the guidance
of Mr. Hofmeyer, and Mr. Tudhope, the Colonial

XIL— PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 161

University

Secretary. The journey from Cape Town occupied
an hour by railway. Stellenbosch is in many ways
a perfect reproduction of a country town in Hol
land. If we miss the canals, we have the domestic
architecture and the fine avenues running through
the principal streets. These features give to this
distant settlement in South Africa, not one of
whose inhabitants probably has ever visited
Holland, a marked Dutch aspect.
On our arrival at Stellenbosch we wei'e driven,
under the guidance of the Mayor, to the University, The
where a mixed staff of Professors, English and
Dutch, are doing, excellent work in education. We
were received by a guard, of honour, furnished by
the students' Volunteer Corps. Having inspected
the University buildings, we drove out to an old
Dutch farm, under a burning sun, and through a
country in which the foliage of the temperate and
the tropical zones was closely intermingled.
The farm we visited comprises an extensive a Dutch
range of buildings, with an excellent dwelling-
house, roomy stables, and large stores filled with
butts of wine, which are characteristic of the dis
trict. The buildings form a large quadrangle, sur
rounding a plot of grass shaded by noble trees.
The situation . of the farm is very striking. It
stands in a deep valley, green, fertile, and well-
watered, but completely hemmed in by mountains
of volcanic formation some 4,000 feet in height,
beautiful in form, but entirely devoid of vegetation.
The proprietor received us most kindly. His
VOL. II. M

farm

162 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Cape
politics

PresidentKruger

command of English was quite remarkable. We
afterwards learned that he holds the post of inter
preter to the Supreme Court, and that farming
is only a recreation. Happy are all cultivators of
the soil, at the Cape not less than at home, who
can give themselves to the pleasant occupation of
agriculture without too grave solicitude as to
financial results. AVant of rain and the phylloxera
are constant anxieties at the Cape. We observed
that the field labourers Were invariably men of
colour. Their earnings do not exceed one shilling
per day.
Cape politics have been a fertile source of
trouble and anxiety to the British Government at
home. With the necessarily imperfect knowledge
of local circumstances, it is impossible, from
London, to deal in a satisfactory manner with the
relations between the Government of a distant
colony, and neighbours so little known as the
Boers, and savages so rude as the Kaffirs and
Zulus. Our errors of the past will not be re
peated, if only we resolve firmly not to fetter the
discretion of the local Governments, which, in
pursuance of a wise policy, we have called into
existence. The visit of President Kruger, of the Transvaal,
to President Brand, of the Free State, was a
prominent topic at the time of our visit. It had
led to the delivery of a speech by Mr. Kruger, in
which he had declared the determination of the
Boers to preserve their complete independence. In

XIL— PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 163
the Cape Colony, people are more interested in the
establishment of railway communication with the
new goldfields within the borders, of the Transvaal
than in the question of political union. As yet a
certain reluctance is manifested by the Boers
to establish railway communication with the
Cape. An English company has made a railway Extension
from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal frontier, and ° iaiwajb
the line will shortly be extended to Pretoria. In
the meanwhile the people of the Cape Colony are
desirous of extending their system of railways,
already 882 miles in length, into the interior.
Considerable discoveries of gold have recently
been made within the limits of the Transvaal, but
close to the border, and all the workers at the
mines are Englishmen from the Cape Colony.
Permission to establish railway communication
with this newly discovered gold-mining district
will be ultimately granted.
Among the Boers of the Transvaal a large
number are friendly to the English. Once con
nected with the Cape by railway, and by a Customs
union, which has been much under discussion, the Customs
Cape Colony and the Transvaal will be for all twTenCapo
practical purposes of trade united. A divided ad- §°^aa^d
ministration of government in a country of such
wide extent is an unmixed advantage.
It was particularly gratifying to hear from Mr.
Hofmeyer, the head of the Dutch party in the
Cape Parliament, and a most able representative
of the Colony in the late Colonial Conference, how
31 2

164 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87-
Position of entirely satisfied his people are to live under
ataScape British rule as now conducted. The Dutch
colonists at the Cape have no personal relations
with Holland. While they look back upon their
former connection as an interesting historical as
sociation, the protection which England affords
against the occupation of the Cape by some other
foreign power is a practical boon, and greatly
valued. The Cape Colony has so extended its
territories that the native races have been brought
into a permanent condition of peace. In the last
ten years jealousies of race have subsided, and the
native power has disappeared. The railways have
become a factor of union. They will lead to closer
relations between the Free State, the Transvaal,
and the seaboard colonies. Unity in feeling and
action, on the part of the two English speaking
and Dutch speaking races, is the true key-note of
future policy.
Judging from such indications as came under
The native our personal notice, the native races, so far from
being a source of weakness, are a great strength
to the colony. The Indians in North America,
the Maoris in New Zealand, the aborigines of
Australia, have disappeared or dwindled away
before the white man. The Zulus and Kaffirs
have proved themselves capable of adopting and
promoting civilisation. They show in numerous
instances a high appreciation of the blessings of
education. They are ready to labour on the
farms, on the railways, and in the mines. They

XIL— PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 165
are content to live under the rule of a superior
race. Material prosperity has been greatly advanced
by the discoveries of gold, the opening up of
goldfields, and the large amount of wealth
which has been derived from the exportation of
diamonds.

XIII. — ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, FAYAL,
AND PORTSMOUTH
The ' Sunbeam ' left Cape Town on October 24. Leave Cape
St. Helena was reached on November 3. Like all arrive at
the islands of the Atlantic it is of volcanic forma- st' Helena
tion. It presents to the ocean on every side a
coast line of precipices, sharp peaks, and gloomy
chasms. The contorted shapes of rock and moun
tain give a powerful impression of the tremendous
forces of nature in a period of volcanic activity.
The landing place for St. Helena is under the lee st. Helena
of the island, at Jamestown, a small town depend
ing entirely on shipping.
Above Jamestown for some 2,000 feet the Jamestown
country is inexpressibly sterile. At a higher level
the soil is watered by the frequent showers brought
up from the ocean by the south-east Trades, and
covered with a rich carpet of grass. In every ^"T'a
sheltered dell the growth of timber is abundant
and varied, combining the trees of the tropics with
those of our English latitudes. The watercourses

166 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

AscensionArrive at
Sierra
Leone

Sierra
Leone

Freetown

are innumerable. The bed of every stream is
filled, and every bank is covered with lovely masses
of water-lilies. The scenery of the island is most
beautiful. The Acting Governor occupies a fine
country house surrounded by a noble park. It is
sad to visit Longwood, and reflect on the intoler
able weariness of such a place of confinement to
the victor in many battles, and the former arbiter
of the destinies of Central Europe.
The ' Sunbeam ' touched at Ascension on the
7th and reached Sierra Leone at 9 p.m. on
November 14. In this section of the voyage the
distance under canvas was 3,327 knots, the average
speed 7"7 knots, and the distance under steam 289
knots, with an average speed of 7 knots. The
south-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas
again proved extremely serviceable.
The British settlements on the West Coast of
Africa date from 1672, when the British African
Company was first formed. Sierra Leone was
ceded to Great Britain in 1787 by the native
chiefs, and was made a residence for freed slaves
from the United States and the West Indies. It
lies in the seventh and eighth degrees north lati
tude. The British protectorate is estimated to
extend over 3,000 square miles. Freetown, the
capital, is built on a peninsula about eighteen
miles long. The town is backed by mountains of
considerable elevation, richly wooded, and beauti
ful in outline. The streets are laid out with regu
larity on ground sloping rapidly to the river. The

XIII.— ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 167
houses are of wood, and the roadways are unpaved.
The population is 37,000.
At Sierra Leone the Church of England is The p. .
strongly supported by the Church Missionary
Society. It has a large body of adherents, and is
the see of a Bishop. It has a college, affiliated
to the Durham University, which has turned out
coloured students of distinguished ability. My
friend Mr. Blyden, author of ' Christianity, Islam,
and the Negro Eace,' is a distinguished leader of
the higher culture among the negro race.
The trade of Sierra Leone, in common with
that of the Gold Coast generally, consists mainly
in the exportation of the palm kernel, from which Exports
an oil is extracted largely used in the manufacture ports
of soap and candles. Marseilles and Hamburg
are the chief centres of this business. The im
ports are mainly Manchester goods and spirits.
The trade has fallen off in recent years owing to
the constant warfare among the tribes bordering
on the colony.
The greatest excitement prevailed in Sierra
Leone at the time of our visit. An expedition was Expedition
being sent to punish the Yonnies, a neighbouring Yonks' ie
tribe, for frequent deeds of violence to British
subjects. It achieved a rapid success. The forces
engaged consisted of the men of the West India
Eegiment and some seamen from the ships. Sir
Francis de Winton was in command, supported
by Major Piggott and Captain Brown. Sierra
Leone is the head-quarters of the West India

168 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Official resi
dence of
governor

Leave
SierraLeone Call at
PortoPraya

Eegiment stationed on the West Coast of Africa.
Their number is four hundred. The barracks are
a large and airy range of buildings, in a command
ing situation on the heights above the town.
We breakfasted with the Acting Governor.
An old fort has been adapted as the official resi
dence. Its thick walls, originally built as a defence
against the bullets of an enemy, give some protec
tion from the heat of the African sun. The ram
parts afford a shady walk, commanding lovely
views of the town and harbour beneath, and the
noble amphitheatre of mountains above. Sierra
Leone would be delightful but for its climate and
the fevers which it brings.
The ' Sunbeam ' left Sierra Leone at sunset on
November 15 under steam. The north-east
Trades were picked up in latitude 11° N. A call
of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on
November 19. The French frigate of instruction
for cadets, the ' Iphigenie,' a tautly rigged ship of
4,000 tons displacement, had anchored on the
previous day. Porto Praya wears the air of decay
so commonly observable in foreign settlements
under the Portuguese flag. The country is fertile,
but progress is checked by the great weight of
taxation, the public income being misapplied in
keeping the unemployed in unprofitable idle
ness. We noticed a considerable number of
able-bodied men hoeing weeds in the public
square. We found three kind Englishmen leading a

XIII. — ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 169
life of exile in charge of the station of the West
African Telegraph Company. St. Vincent is the st. Vincent
only island of the Cape de Verdes which has any
trade ; as a coaling station it is much used by
steamers on the South American route.
On the day after leaving Porto Praya the Leave
' Sunbeam ' lay becalmed under the lee of St. Praya
Antonio. The anchorage used in 1876 was in
view, as was also the house and plantation of
which a drawing is given in Lady Brassey's
' Voyage in the " Sunbeam." : There were many
sad reminiscences as the former track of the ' Sun
beam ' was crossed. On November 29, without
warning from the barometer, a strong gale com- Encounter
menced from the east, and lasted without inter- gaf°uurclays
mission for four days. Under low canvas and
close hauled, the ' Sunbeam ' gallantly struggled
forward, making 130 knots on November 29, and
on the three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots
respectively. While hove to in this gale the
canvas was severely punished. All the lower sails
were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced
to storm trysails. Two large barques were passed
lying-to under lower main topsails and mizen
storm staysails. At dawn on December 2, Fayal sight
¦ 1.4. j Fayal
was sighted.
The gale was blowing dead on shore at Horta,
and it was preferable to run for shelter under the
lee of the island. As we closed the land, grand
effects were produced by the clouds and mists
driving- before the gale, down the green slopes of

170 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

the mountains, to the dark cliffs of lava and basalt
which form the northern face of the island.
Here and there, in the deep clefts and fissures, falls
were seen, abounding in water from the heavyrains.
Gleams of sunshine occasionally breaking through
the mist brought back recollections of similar beauti
ful effects on the west coast of Scotland. Late in
the afternoon of December 2 the ' Sunbeam ' gained
the northern entrance to the channel which
divides Fayal from Pico. An attempt was made
Heavy sea. to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea
anchor at was running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy
Horta night, and we determined to wait outside until
daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for
shelter from the wind and sea.
At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining
on the snow-clad peak of Pico, towering in soli
tary grandeur to a height of 7,800 feet. The
northern face of the mountain, silvered by the
moon, was robed in a mantle of clouds, tinted with
the rosy hues of the morning.
An hour's steaming carried us into the anchor
age at Fayal, where we remained through the day
of December 3. The passage from Sierra Leone
to Fayal had been accomplished with adverse
winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in
16| days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at
an average speed of 6-3 knots, and 460 miles under
steam at an average speed of 6 knots.
We found several sailing vessels at anchor in
the roadstead of Horta. One British vessel had

Snowy
Pico

Anchor at
Fayal

XIII. — ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 171
come in for provisions, another to repair a damaged Craft in
rudder. A barque hailing from Boston was one stead°ad
of a line which carries on a regular service under
canvas between the Azores and America. They
depend chiefly on passengers, who make the
cruise for sake of health. The Norwegian flag
was represented by one most crazy wooden ship,
70 years old, and by another ship of nearly equal
antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthi
ness. The captains of both the Norwegians were
hoping that the surveyors might condemn them as
unfit for further service.
Fayal offers an especially favourable opportu- Fayal
nity for the obsequies of an unseaworthy ship in- destruction
sured beyond her value. The local shipwrights °f0"t1hsea"
have a high reputation for skill in effecting repairs, vessels
but their services are more largely in request for
the work of destruction. The little harbour of
Porto Pirn, a cove formed by the sea in the crater
of an extinct volcano, contained many skeletons
of ships which have ended their days in these
secluded waters. The danger to life from the
attempt to navigate in ships no longer fit to con
tend with storm and tempest, can only be removed
by compelling the owners of ships to bear some
share of the pecuniary risk.
Fayal, which depends mainly on shipping, has
seen more prosperous days. The opening of the
Suez Canal and the introduction of powerful iron Effect of
and steel built ocean liners, which suffer com- Upon Fayal
paratively little from the effects of heavy weather,

172 CRUISE TO INDIA AND' AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Headquarters of
American whalers

Statistics of Fayal

have combined to produce a marked diminution in
the number of vessels calling at the port-. The
whalers under the United States flag still make
it their head-quarters in the summer season.
During the present year nine have been seen at
the anchorage at the same time. Exciting chases
in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take
place in the channel between Fayal and Pico.
Numerous whale boats are kept on the island, and
are instantly launched when a whale is seen near
the shore. A breakwater is now in progress at
Horta, but the work is proceeding with the
customary festina lente method of the Portu
guese. The British Consul at Fayal supplied the
statistics quoted in the following memorandum.

Population of Fayal in 1886, 24,501.
Breakwater :
Commenced, March 20, 1876.
Amount expended to June 30, 1887, 192.286Z.
Number of vessels entered, with aggregate tonnage

1885. Sailing vessels
„ Steam „
1886. Sailing „ .
„ Steam „

Tonnage
. 66 20,890
. 78 95,982
. 63 26,341
. 66 82,435

Leave
Fayal.

The trade is insignificant.
Having taken in water and provisions, the
voyage was resumed on the evening of December 3,
with a favourable wind from the S.S.E. At mid-

XIII.— ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 173
night the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east,
and on the following morning the ' Sunbeam '
bore up, before a severe gale, for shelter under the
lee ot Terceira. Late in the day the sun burst Bear up
through the veil of lowering clouds, and lighted Ceiraer
up the landscape with a flood of golden light.
Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest
ridges attain an elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests
of the hills are clothed with forests of pine and
rich pastures.
At a lower level the indications of laborious Terceira
cultivation are seen in range upon range of ter
raced gardens and vineyards. The island is
densely inhabited, the numerous white houses
giving an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the
scene, which recalls the Bay of Naples and the
Straits of Messina.
On December 5 the gale subsided to a calm, Gale abates
and the voyage homewards was commenced under Proceed
steam. In a few hours the engines broke down,
and sail was made to a light breeze from the
north-east. On the succeeding days favourable
winds were experienced from the westward. On
the 11th the wind shifted to the south-east,
accompanied by drizzling rain and fog, which
rendered observations impossible. The Scilly
Island lights were sighted, in a fortunate lifting of sight Sciiiy
the haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run Islands
from the Scilly Islands to Spithead was made at An-ive at
the rate of 11^ knots an hour, before a south
westerly gale.

174 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87

Enter Ports
mouthHarbourDefects of
' Sun
beam's '
boiler

Behaviourof the crew
during the
voyage

Distance
run

The total distance from Fayal, including the
call at Terceira, was 1,440 miles, of which sixty
only were under steam. The average speed was
7 knots. The ' Sunbeam ' entered Portsmouth
Harbour at noon on December 14.
AVhen the ' Sunbeam ' reached the Cape, it was
found that the tubes of the boiler had been seriously
injured by the great varieties of fuel burned during
the voyage. The pressure of steam was consider
ably reduced, with a corresponding loss of speed.
On leaving Terceira the boiler broke down com
pletely, and for the remainder of the voyage the
winds were the only resource.
The crew, consisting of twenty-four seamen,
have behaved in a highly creditable manner. The
offences when in port have been few, and at sea
every duty has been carried out in a manner
worthy of British seamen. Three men joined at
King George's Sound. They had been sentenced
to a short term of imprisonment for insubordina
tion on board a yacht returning from a cruise
in Australian waters. To oblige the Government
Eesident, I consented to receive these men on
board on trial. Better men it would not have
been possible to obtain had they been recruited
through the usual agencies.
The total distance covered during the voyage
was 36,709 knots, 25,808 under sail and 10,901
under steam. The runs under sail included 39
days over 200 knots, fifteen days over 240, seven

XIII.— ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 175
days over 260, and three days over 270. The best
day was 282 knots.
The total consumption of coal was 330 tons. Coal
x . consumed
Though the quality taken on board was m many
instances inferior, an average distance of 33
knots was steamed for every ton of coal con
sumed.

176

VIII

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
Reprinted by Permission from the ' Fortnightly Review,'
May 1893

The West
Indies for I
yachtingcruise

Leave Spezzia in
the ' Sun
beam ' for
Barbados

The voyage I am about to describe was made in
seas which offer an ideal cruising ground to a
yachtsman. Every year we see fleets more
numerous and of increasing tonnage assembled
under the protecting breakwater of the Isle of
AVight. The modern pleasure fleet is mostly pro
pelled by steam. By lavish expenditure, powers
of locomotion have been created on a vast scale ;
and broader waters than those of the Solent are
needed to turn the new capabilities of travel to
the best advantage. A cruise to the West Indies
cannot fail to impress on the memory in unfading
colours the loveliest pictures of natural beauty
which it is possible to conceive.
On the sea experiences of our trip I must be
brief. The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Spezzia at 10 p.m.
on January 2. Avoiding details, I may simply
mention that we touched at Villefranche, Barcelona,
Valencia, Gibraltar, Tangiers, Teneriffe, and St.
Vincent in the Cape de Verdes. In heavy weather

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 17T
in the Gulf of Lyons we lost a boat, and in a hard
south-west gale some sixty miles south of Cape
Spartel our jibboom and fore-topmast were carried
away. Having weathered all the storms which
had impeded progress, and profited with alacrity
by every favouring breeze, we made the revolving
light on Bagged Point, the eastern extremity of
Barbados, at 7.30 p.m. on the 12th February.
The following morning we anchored in Carlisle Anchor in
Bay. The view from the sea is not unpleasing. Bay,
A dense mass of rich green tropical vegetation Bar a os
extends from Needham Point to the entrance of
the Carenage, or harbour. Bridgetown, the capital Bridge-
of the island, is built on the low ground near the
shore. Behind the town the land rises in a gradual
slope. The square patches of cultivation on the
sugar estates in the distance produce the effect of
a country divided by hedges. In the subdued
light and cool of the evening, the scene suggests
an English landscape rather than an island in the
tropics. We landed at noon, an hour at which
only the latest arrivals from temperate latitudes
would venture to confront the fierce heat of a
tropical sun. In the office of the West India and
Panama Telegraph Company, where we were
hospitably received, we found the latest newspapers
from England and the United States. A refresh
ing breeze was blowing through the open Venetian
shutters and bulkheads. In three carriages, the
drivers of which were in livery and wore each a
tall black felt hat, we proceeded through the busy
VOL. IL N

178 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
streets to the southern end of Bridgetown. The
Public House of Assembly, and the offices of the adminis
trative departments, form a pleasing group, in the
Gothic style, having in the centre a grove of shady
trees. Close by is the bronze statue erected to
the memory of Lord Nelson in 1812,
The charm of Bridgetown, to new-comers from
The England, consists in the gardens, full of gav
gardens ° . . ° b •>
colouring. Hibiscus, crotons in many varieties,
and oleanders in full bloom, are the flowers seen
in the greatest abundance. We were all buyers
of garments suitable for hot climates. The retail
business in manufactured goods is concentrated in
a few establishments mounted on a vast scale.
storef613'8 At Whitfield's Stores, in addition to the sale of
clothing, an active trade is done in frozen meat
and game. A new and most efficient machine
delivers into the ice-room twenty tons of block-ice
daily. With a cost of production estimated at 8.s.
per ton, and a selling price at 21. 10s., a handsome
profit is realised, and dividends of 10 per cent, are
anticipated. Such a return should be yielded
ungrudgingly by consumers. No form of enterprise
and no application of science to practical purposes
could be more truly beneficent than the manufac
ture of ice for the relief of the sufferings endured
by white men in a tropical climate.
The natives The happy f aces of our coloured fellow-subjects
are a most pleasant sight in Barbados. The
Barbadian negro is no idler. The population of
16,000 whites and 166,000 coloured people is

ail-
service

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 179
crowded in the proportion of 1,100 to the square
mile. The main occupation being agriculture, it
is evident that the whole surface of the island must
be industriously and skilfully cultivated to enable
so large a number to obtain a subsistence.
We dined with the Governor, Sir James Hay,
and gladly accepted his kind invitation to take up
our quarters in Government House.
February 14. — The cathedral, a capacious The
and well-designed building in the Gothic style,
contains many tombstones bearing dates of the
seventeenth century. On the quay of the Carenage
we found a group engaged in an open-air service. Anopen-ai
Moody and Sankey hymns were sung with much
feeling by the negresses gathered round the
preacher. The sermon was not long. In the
opening, the position of those who neglect religion
was compared to that of a rich man's heir failing
to claim his inheritance. After enlarging on the
same theme, the preacher suddenly rivetted the
attention of his audience by exclaiming several
times, ' God made us white ! ' He proceeded to
explain this as a reference to the condition of his
soul now that he had become a believing Christian.
' Far better to have a white soul and a black face
than a white face and a black soul ! ' was the
remark addressed with emphasis to three seamen
from a colonial schooner who were carelessly
looking on. Later in the evening we stood for
some time at the door of the meeting-house of a
newly-formed sect known as the ' Faith-healers.' N 2

180 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Sect of
' Faith-
healers '

The Savannah.
Military ex
penditurein Bar
bados

A railway
journey in
the island

Before an audience of some two hundred persons
a negress was holding forth with remarkable
fluency and impressiveness of manner on the
familiar truths of Christianity. While speaking,
the preacher walked up and down the side of the
room, often stopping and assuming a pose which
contributed much to the oratorical effect. It is
certain that religion has a real hold upon the
people of Barbados. The Government expenditure
on stipends to ministers of religion is 14,000Z. a
year ; and there is much voluntary effort.
Monday, February 15. — At 5.30 p.m. went
to the Savannah. Polo. Band of Duke of Wel
lington's Eegiment. It is always cheering to sec
the pluck with which the British officer, whose
destiny may have consigned him to the grilling-
heat of India and other stations in the tropics,
preserves his energy and activity by playing the
same games which he enjoyed in his public school
days in England. It is a circumstance inviting
reflection that the expenditure incurred by the
Imperial Government for military purposes in
Barbados is no less than 550,000Z. a year.
Tuesday, February 16. — Started at 7 a.m. in
a special train. The only railway of Barbados
is a narrow-gauge surface-line, following every
indentation of the ground, with sharp curves
and steep inclines. The journey afforded an ex
cellent opportunity for seeing the interior of the
island. In extent it compares closely with the
Isle of Wight. In shape it resembles a pear.

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 181
The stalk, or south point, is low and narrow,
while the northern part is wider and hilly. The
greatest elevation is 1,104 feet. Every spot of
fertile ground is carefully cultivated. Sugar is, s,ugai"
. ° J a i plantations
practically, the sole product. Although attempts
have been made to amalgamate a few properties,
the sugar estates are usually of moderate extent,
averaging some 300 acres. Owing to the com
paratively small size of the estates, the island is
thickly studded with buildings, which present a
curious combination of the factory, the farmstead,
and the residence of a country gentleman. The
planters live in large houses surrounded by
gardens and dense groups of trees. Close at
hand will be seen tall chimneys, boiler-houses, ,
and other buildings, necessary for treating the
sugar after the cane has been cut. There is a
waste of power in the unnecessary multiplication
of mills and machinery. Large amounts of Excessive
capital are lying idle in mills not worked to the m1us
full extent of their capacity. Better qualities
of sugar could be produced, and at a lower cost,
by concentrating the manufacture in a few
central usines, mounted on a large scale and
equipped with the most modern machinery.
In common with the other islands of the
AVest Indies, Barbados suffered very seriously
from the depression of a few years ago, when
the price of sugar fell to below 101. per ton. The
markets are now greatly improved, while the
pressure of bad times has produced some abiding

182 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
improved good results. It has compelled the strictest
sugar"33 °f attention to economy in every department. The
cultivation cmtiVation is more carefully carried out than
before, and valuable improvements have been
introduced in the methods of extracting the juice
from the cane. It is said that the cost of
producing sugar has now fallen to something
under 101. per ton. The depreciation in prices
caused by a general over-supply had led to a
marked reduction in the quantity produced.
Under the present more favourable conditions
the output of sugar has revived, and now exceeds
in volume that of any former period. By a
The treaty recently negotiated, the United States
United admits the Muscavado sugar of Barbados duty
free, . the island agreeing to receive the bread-
stuffs it requires from the United States also free
of duty. The treaty has produced a marked
- effect on the course of trade. While the exports
to the United Kingdom had fallen from 190.000Z.
in 1886 to 130,0002. in 1890, the exports to
Canada and the United States had doubled, and at
the date of the latest returns exceeded 1,000,0002.
in value. Barbados depends almost entirely on
imported food, the principal articles being ob
tained from the United States. Great Britain
has the monopoly of the trade in manufactured
good. During our short stay we made an interesting
excursion to Codrington College, an institution
founded in the reign of William III. by the

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 183

governor whose name it bears. The picturesque Codrmgton
stone buildings stand in a lovely position facing Collese
the sea, and at the foot of an elevated range of
hills. The college is affiliated to Durham, and
the course of instruction includes theology and
the classics. The number of students is from
twenty to thirty. The majority take orders ; a
limited number follow the medical profession.
From Codrington College it is a stiff climb to
St. John's Church, built on the edge of a cliff, with St. John's
a commanding view of the sea. The church
would be worthy of a large parish in England.
We were told that the congregation on Sun
days often approaches a thousand persons. The
Church of England has a strong hold on the negro
population of Barbados. We recognised on the
tombstones names still familiar in the island,
where many families have been settled for several
generations. It was here and at St. Christopher's
that England founded her first settlements in the The first
West
West Indies. It was here that the first sugar- Indian
cane was planted upon the soil of the British se emen s
dominions. It was here that many devoted ad
herents of the Eoyal cause found a refuge after
the Civil Wars.
Sailing from Barbados at 10 p.m. on February Leave
16th, at daybreak on the 18th the high coast-
range on the north shore of Trinidad was in
sight. As we gradually closed with the land J1?^,0^
the views of the coast became more and more from the
beautiful. The highest summits attain an eleva-

184 A TRIP TO- THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

tion of 3,000 feet. The lofty peaks and ridges of
the sky-line rise and sink in graceful curves and
long, sweeping slopes. From the topmost points
to the sea the descent is almost precipitous.
Everywhere the mountains are covered with a
rich green virgin tropical forest, swept by the
refreshing breezes of the trade-wind, which at
this season of the year never ceases to blow.
At 2 p.m. we were off the entrances to the Gulf of
Paria, named the Dragon's Mouth by Columbus
in commemoration of the difficulties he encoun
tered from strong tides and currents and baffling
winds. AVe were fortunate in entering the Gulf
Anchor at with a commanding breeze from the north-east,
which carried us over a three-knot tide through
the Boca de Huevos into the smooth waters of
the Gulf of Paria.
Trinidad is fortunate in not depending solely
Products of on sugar. Cocoa is grown most successfully, and
the island „ . . „ . . . , .
now lorms an article of export which already
rivals, and promises soon greatly to exceed in
value, the older staple of West Indian trade. In
addition to sugar and cocoa, other products — such
as coffee, tobacco, and fruit— in which an active
trade with the United States is being developed,
give excellent promise for the future. The island
possesses a unique source of wealth in the famous
Pitch Lake. The value of the exports and im
ports may be taken at 5,000,0002., the two sides
of the ledger approximately balancing each other.
The total population is 196,000, about one-third

A TRIP TO THE WEST- INDIES IN 1892 185
of the inhabitants being coolies. At the present Population
time East Indian emigrants are being introduced habitants
in large numbers, many of whom prosper and
become permanent settlers. These imported
labourers are not to be compared in physical
power with the negroes ; but the latter are not
disposed to regular industry, and are under no
pressure to work from necessity. In the course
of its chequered history Trinidad has passed in chequered
succession under the rule of Spain, France, and tileLYand
England. All the races who have had dominion
over the island are represented in its hetero
geneous population. The lower class of shop
keepers are Chinamen. English is everywhere
spoken, and the French and Spanish languages
are heard on all sides.
Trinidad has a public revenue of nearly half a Progress of
,TT. . . , iii the island
million. With this handsome sum, under able
administration, much has been done to introduce
civilisation and to develop resources. Under pre
sent conditions the West Indian Islands find
their best market for sugar in the United States,
and for cocoa in London. It would have been a
help if the- mother country could have given to
the products of Trinidad a preferential position
in her markets. This idea can now, however,
be no longer entertained. We have called into
existence too many industries depending for their
success on the cheapness of raw materials.
An excursion to the Maracas Waterfall was a
charming incident in our stay at Trinidad. After

186 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

tree

Excursion living for some miles over a flat country, through
Maracas numerous large sugar plantations, we commenced
a rapid ascent, by a running stream which rushes
down a thickly-wooded valley from its source in
the central mountain range. Nothing can exceed
the loveliness of the scenery. The vegetation
presents all the richest beauties of the tropics.
TheSaman The grandest tree is the Saman, whose huge
trunk, strengthened by powerful buttresses, sup
ports branches of almost illimitable spread. The
tree is covered with orchids and parasites. In
the rainy season it is a mass of lovely flowers.
Palms and ferns in every variety, the cannon-ball
tree, the bread fruit, and the nutmeg grow luxu
riantly. Here and there the space has been
cleared for cocoa-nut trees — the pods at this
season wearing their most brilliant colours of
yellow, pink, and orange. The fall of Maracas in
dry weather is diminished to a thin veil of water.
It descends from a precipice 300 feet in height,
recalling the graceful lines of Tennyson : —

Slow- dropping veils of thinnest lawn did go,
And some, like wavering shadows, rose and fell,
Rolling a slumbrous sheet of foam below.
Leave We sailed from Trinidad on February 20,
Mid'arrive an<^ a* ^ RM' on tne following day were safely
at Grenada anchored in the Carenage of St. George, the
picturesque chief town of Grenada.
February 22. — Going on deck shortly after
sunrise on the following morning, the land-locked
harbour presented an enchanting scene. It is

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 187
surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills of the The
most varied forms, clothed with the richest vege
tation from their summits down to the water's
edge. Bode up to the Grand Etang, the bridle path Ride to the
, . Grand
of which ascends, in a distance of less than seven Etang
miles, to a height of some 2,000 feet. Having
scaled the topmost ridge, the view extends to the
eastward over the broad waters of the Atlantic,
and to the westward over the Caribbean Sea. In
the foreground lies a lake, some thirteen acres in
extent, filling an ancient crater. Throughout
the ascent the scenery is exquisitely beautiful,
The mountains are broken into lofty peaks and
deep valleys, affording at every turn some new
yet always charming view. The vegetation in
cludes all the trees and flowers of the tropics.
Grenada is less dependent on a single product than
most of the islands of the West Indies. The
surface of the island is too mountainous for the
successful plantation of sugar. The chief product
is cocoa, the annual exports of which are valued Export of
COCOfli
at nearly a quarter of a million. The quantity
shipped has doubled in the last ten years. Many
valuable spices are extensively cultivated. A
trade in fruit is being opened up with the United
States. The aggregate exports have advanced
from 181,0002. in 1886 to 266,0002. in 1890.
Cocoa grows most luxuriantly in the West Indies
up to an elevation of 2,000 feet. A planter who Cultivation
contemplates growing cocoa must begin by clear-

188 A TRIP TO THE "WEST INDIES IN 1892
ing the forest, an operation which should be under
taken a year before planting is attempted. As
soon as the forest is cleared, bananas should be
planted twelve to fifteen feet apart, and a nursery
formed in which the cocoa can be raised from
seed. At the end of the second year, during the
rainy season, the cocoa should be planted out, in
the proportion of about 300 trees to the acre.
In three years, in favourable localities affording
a deep soil, the plants begin to bear. In five
years the trees are in full bearing, and the produce
will average 900 lbs. to the acre. A good tree
should yield some three pounds of cocoa. The
price, according to the latest New York quotations,
was. twelve cents per pound, which would give
108 dollars to the acre.
Cultivation Nutmeg is becoming a source of much profit
meg to many islands in the West Indies, and especially
in Grenada. For many years the nutmeg tree has
been grown ; it is only recently that its cultiva
tion has received serious attention. To start a
nutmeg plantation the ground must be cleared, at
a cost of 62. per acre. Saman trees should then
be planted, forty-five feet apart. Meanwhile the
nutmeg seeds should be carefully reared in the
nursery. In about two years the seedlings should
be planted out. Unless the locality is very favour
able, ten years must elapse before the trees begin
to be productive. A large number will be of the
male sex ; and as the proportion of male to female
trees should not exceed one in thirty, the planter

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 189
will have to cut down the trees freely as soon as
their sex is declared. Mr. Whitfield Smith, the
able superintendent of the Botanical Gardens at
Grenada, believes that this difficulty may be over
come by budding. It is reckoned that nutmegs
should yield an annual profit to the planter of about
ten shillings per tree.
The heights above St. George are crowned with The old
extensive stone forts, from which the last soldier
has long since been withdrawn. They were mostly
erected during the period of the French occupa
tion, and were the scene of a hard struggle between
the forces of Lord Macartney and Count d'Estaing.
At Grenada we found the Governor, Sir Walter
Hely Hutchinson, busily engaged in an effort to
settle the labourers on the Crown lands of the
Windward Islands, the object in view being to
give to those colonies the advantage of numbering
among their population a large proportion of small
proprietors having a stake in the prosperity of the
islands. In pursuance of this pohcy, allotments Allotments
„ _ . r n . , i ¦ , -, of Crown
of Crown lands are in course ot being sold to lands on
labourers at moderate prices. In time the number i ""
of small proprietors will become considerable. It
will be obvious that this generous policy must be
carried out with care and discretion. Living under
a tropical sky and settled upon a productive soil,
the labourers, if left to themselves, will grow pro
visions, such as cassava, yams, plantains, and
bananas, while the cultivation of cocoa and other
economical plants will be neglected. Dwelling in

Islands

190 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

remote valleys, away from the influences of civili
sation, the settlers may deteriorate both morally
Govern- and materially. To meet this difficulty it was at
"hemes one time in contemplation that the Government
should form model plantations. The labourers
were to be paid at fixed price for the production
and to receive the profits in addition, after deduct
ing cost of supervision and manufacture and a low
rent for the land. It has not as yet been found
practicable to carry out this scheme. Sir Walter
Proposal of Hely Hutchinson has now made a proposal for an
Hutehin-61' experimental clearing in the Eichmond Valley in
Ron the island of St. Vincent. It is estimated to involve
an expenditure of 5,0002., on which a return of 5
per cent, may be looked for. This proposal may
prove sufficiently attractive, both from a philan
thropic and a prudential point of view, to attract
subscriptions to the limited amount required.
In the afternoon of February 23, we steamed
a trip to from St. George to Goyave Bay, a distance of
Bay"1" seven miles, along a coast of surpassing loveliness.
The landing at Goyave was not unattended with
difficulty. We were most kindly received by Mr.
Gurney, who is in charge of the extensive nutmeg
and cacao estates belonging to Colonel Duncan.
The scenery on the way to the plantation is en
chanting. The road follows a stream descending
through a deep valley hemmed in by picturesque
mountains. Large clearings have been made in
the tropical forests, and in these the nutmeg and
cacao are grown in profuse abundance,

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 191

Leaving Grenada on the 23rd, at daybreak on Leave
the following morning St. Vincent was near at anTarrfve
hand on the starboard bow, presenting a noble yineent
mass of mountains rising to a height of 4,000 feet.
Kingstown Bay is spacious, and offers excellent
shelter from the trade-wind, which rarely ceases
to blow. The anchorage commands a fine view
of the island. A stone fort of considerable size
looks down upon the sea from the heights forming
the northern horn of the bay. Below, upon the
shore lies Kingstown, small but regularly built. Kingstown
° . Bay. View
It reminded Mr. Froude of a scene m Norway, from the
The mountains, of volcanic formation, rise in the
background to a height of nearly 3,000 feet. As
at Grenada and Trinidad the sky-line is broken
into sharp peaks and crags of the most varied and
beautiful forms. The mountain sides are furrowed
by deep ravines, and are clothed with dense forests,
rich vegetation, and abundant pastures. The rain
fall here, as in all parts of the West Indies, is
copious. Throughout the year the islands are clad
in a fresh green mantle. Government House is a
conspicuous object in the landscape. It stands a
few hundred feet above the town, in a botanical
garden adorned with noble trees.
The Administrator, Captain Maling, paid an
early call on board. We discussed the recent
troubles among the black population. Discontent Discontent
had been caused by the proposal to cease to main- native
tain in each island a separate Chief Justice, of P°Pulation
necessity comparatively poorly paid, and only par-

192 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
tially employed. The Government were desirous
of appointing law officers at higher salaries, who
should undertake to act for a group of islands.
The plan was unpopular in those islands which
would have been deprived of a resident official
while called upon to contribute to the salary of an
officer resident elsewhere. The attempts at dis
turbance were effectively quelled by the prompt
action taken by Sir AAr alter Hely Hutchinson.
The authority of the Government having been
sufficiently asserted, it has not been thought neces
sary to press the adoption of a useful reform. It
is a great mistake to suppose that the multiplicity
of officials in the islands is due to a desire at home
to have the command of a large patronage. The
obstacles to reduction are raised by the people of
the several islands.
Products of If sugar is the most important product of St.
the island yjncen^ arrowroot is the most characteristic
article grown in the island. The quality is un
surpassed, while the price yields a highly en
couraging return. The cultivation of cocoa and
nutmeg has been commenced with satisfactofy
results. Sisal hemp can be grown in perfection.
It is proposed to open up a trade in fruit with the
United States and Canada, by giving subsidies to
a line of steamers.
Native The black population have been complaining,
and not without reason, of the low scale to which
their wages have been reduced. The men now
barely earn a shilling per day, and the women

labour

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 193
somewhat less. In the depression which had
lately fallen on the sugar industry, reductions of Reduction
wages were accepted as inevitable. In the more ° wages
cheering position which has now been reached,
the negroes consider that their pay should be
more liberal. We passed through large gather
ings of people in Kingstown and the outskirts.
They bore no marks of squalor or of discontent.
Their demeanour was most friendly.
Weighing anchor shortly after midnight, at Leave
dawn on February 25th we were off the famous
Pitons of St. Lucia. These noble peaks rise to The Pitons
a height of more than 2,000 feet above the sea. Lucia
The higher of the two is a mountain mass with
precipitous sides. The less lofty is a sugar-loaf
peak, similar in form to the Pan d'Azucar, which
forms such a fine feature in the entrance to the
splendid harbour of Eio de Janeiro. We closed
with the beautiful shore of St. Lucia a few miles
north of the Pitons. The coast is indented by
numerous bays, affording excellent anchorage.
In the valleys and low grounds the sugar-cane is
cultivated. At 8 a.m. we entered the port of Castries. Anchor in
Two steamers, bearing the well known blue stripe Castries,
of Messrs. Lamport & Holt, were at anchor at '" ucia
the entrance of the harbour. The yellow flag
was flying on the fore, the vessels having recently
come from Santos, where yellow fever is raging.
Fatal cases having occurred on both vessels,
pratique would not be given until fourteen days
VOL. II. 0

194 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Coaling at
St. Lucia

CastriesBay as a
coaling station

Security of
the harbour

Insanitaryconditions

had elapsed from the date of the last death. The
harbour-master was an old acquaintance, who
had last brought us to an anchor at St. Helena.
He took charge of the ' Sunbeam,' and we were
soon made fast to the wharf belonging to Messrs.
Castanet. Thirty tons of good coal were put on
board in an hour and a half. The operation of
coaling is performed as quickly at St. Lucia as at
any other port in the world. The coal is brought
on board in baskets, the work being done entirely
by women who can earn up to eight shillings a
day. Our visit to St. Lucia was undertaken mainly
with the view of forming an opinion on the spot
as to its merits and capabilities as a coaling sta
tion. Castries Bay is easily defended and the
harbour is secure. The physical conditions which
render Castries Bay a secure harbour, tend to
make its stagnant waters unhealthy under a tro
pical sun. Malarial fevers are prevalent, and
especially in marshy ground, of which there is a
large extent around the shores of the harbour.
Drainage is a serious difficulty at Castries. The
town is built on a small space of flat ground, and
is completely hemmed in by an amphitheatre of
high and precipitous hills. There is no flow of
running water, and the insanitary condition can
be only too easily appreciated. The Government
should have an absolute control over the civil
population of Castries ; it should acquire posses
sion of the entire foreshore ; it should have the

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 195
power to fix the number of people who should
be permitted to settle in the vicinity of the
harbour. It has been proposed to remove to St. Lucia
the British troops hitherto stationed at Barbados.
On many grounds the latter seems the more Advan-
desirable station in peace. The barracks are sfrbados
admirably adapted to a hot climate. They stand Lutiffor
near the breezy shore, in a spacious savannah or troops
park, equally convenient for drills and exercise,
for cricket, tennis, and polo. It should not be
put out of view that Barbados has a population of
172,000, as against the 44,000 of St. Lucia. As
a link with the mother country, it is desirable
that the British troops in the West Indies should
be stationed, in peace, in the largest centres of
population. If war threatened, in a few hours
the force in Barbados could be moved to St. Lucia.
In connection with the fortification of St. Lucia
as a coaling-station, it must be recognised that it
may be a long distance from the theatre of war.
With fast merchant-steamers to carry supplies of
coal, a movable rendezvous might offer great
advantages. Leaving St. Lucia on February 26th, at dawn Leave St.
on March 1st the Blue Mountains of Jamaica ^at*
were in view. We ran through the Cays of Port j^^*0"1
Eoyal and through the ship-channel leading up to
Kingston, without a pilot, at full speed, and drop
ped anchor at 4 p.m. A few minutes later Sir
Henry Blake and his staff were on board and gave
o 2

196 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Jamaica

Improvedprosperity
of the
island

Depressionof the
sugarindustry

us a cordial welcome. The large and important
island of Jamaica is beginning to rally from a
long period of depression. The exports from
Jamaica have increased from 1,280,0002. in 1886
to 1,903,0002. in 1890-91. While the export trade
to the United Kingdom has remained nearly sta
tionary, the development has been rapid in the
trade with the United States, especially in fruit.
In 1890-91 the exports of oranges and bananas
exceeded half a million sterling in value. Jamaica
is fortunate in the variety of its products, which
include sugar, coffee, ginger; rum, and dye-wood.
The prosperity of the island is abundantly proved
by the increase in the imports from 1,326,0002. in
1886 to 2,189,0002. in the latest returns. Of the
import trade of Jamaica 56 per cent, is with the
United Kingdom.
It is interesting to trace the causes which led
to the depression of the sugar interest in the West
Indies. Sir Henry Blake was my teacher on this
subject. Half a century ago the supply of sugar
was comparatively limited, and the price was 602.
a ton. With ever-increasing sources of supply a
great fall in price ensued, and no improvement
having been made in the methods of cultivation and
manufacture, the position of the sugar planters
was far from prosperous. Their misfortunes were
not caused by the manumission of the slaves.
The decay of the sugar industry in the West
Indies began in 1830, and was mainly, if not
solely, due to the increasing competition and the

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 197
consequent gradual fall in prices. At the present
day labour is not more costly than at the time
when slaves were employed. The slave cost Is. 6d.
per day, and the price of coolie labour is approxi
mately the same. Under the pressure of difficult
times the methods of growing and manufacturing
sugar have been greatly improved, and the cost of improved
production, including interest on capital, has been prospec'
brought down from 102. to 122. a ton. Sugar is
now selling at 3^ cents per pound, or 162. 6s. 8d.
per ton, thus giving the planter a not unsatisfac
tory return.
In considering the complaints urged at home
by those who claim to speak in the interest of the
planters, it must be borne in mind that the West
India Society is mainly an organisation of pro- The West
prietors, the management of whose affairs has Society
been committed to local agents. The absentee Absentee
must employ in the first place an attorney, who plantations
holds the legal authority and exercises only a
general control over operations. The estate is, as
a rule, worked with capital borrowed from a mer
chant, who probably charges 8 per cent, for
advances made on the drafts of the attorney.
The merchant, taking a lien on the crop as security
for his advances, claims to have the arrangement
of the freightage, and charges a commission on
the freight. He has the management of the sale
of. the produce in England, and upon this opera
tion another commission must be paid. In the
working of a sugar plantation the immediate

198 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

manage
ment

supervision is committed to an overseer, assisted
by a bookkeeper. To these men is entrusted the
management of the cultivation of the cane, the
distillation of the rum, and the manufacture of
the sugar. To do the work well, technical know
ledge and the invigorating influence of personal
interest are required. It would be a moderate
estimate to put the charges for management and
Charges for supervision at 20 per cent. A resident owner,
having the command of sufficient capital, escapes
these heavy burdens. It is unfortunate that
three-fourths of the owners of sugar estates in the
West Indies are absentees. It has been proposed
to substitute factories for the present system of
separate mills for each plantation. To ensure the
success of such a change operations must be con
ducted on a large scale. To run a factory equipped
with the most improved machinery, it would be
necessary to command the entire quantity of cane
grown upon an area of not less than four or five
thousand acres. A number of growers' must com
bine in order to establish an efficient factory.
Coffee is an article of growing importance in
the productions of Jamaica. In value it is in
advance of sugar, and the quality produced is of
high standard. The fruit trade with the United
States has advanced by leaps and bounds. Sir
Henry Blake confidently believes that a large
vegetable trade in early potatoes and tomatoes can
be developed, and that the cacao may be success
fully cultivated. In order to start a new industry,

Coffee and
fruit growing

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 199
the Government must take the initial steps. For
this purpose it is proposed to establish parochial
committees. Through their agency the cultivators
could be placed in communication with competent
instructors, who would teach the most . approved
methods of cultivating and preparing cacao. The
importance of a good method may be appreciated
from the fact that Trinidad fetches 60s. per cwt. Superiority
more than Jamaica cacao, the difference in quality cacao
being entirely due to the superior method of pre
paration. The Governor proposes to buy cacao
from the growers, to prepare it properly, and offer
it for sale. The results of the operation in relation
to the costs of the process and the prices fetched
will be made known to the growers. Flour made
from dried bananas, preserved fruits, onions raised
from seed imported from the Canary Islands, and
other articles, it is believed, could be advanta
geously produced. It is highly satisfactory to
know that there is no lack of capital in Jamaica.
Turning to the relations between this colony Loyalty of
and the mother country, it is gratifying to know the natlves
that among the coloured population the feeling is
decidedly against secession to the United States.
They do not like the inferior social position which
the black people occupy in the great Eepublic.
In rehgious matters it is interesting to notice the
success of the Moravians. Every minister in this Energy
sect works with his own hands, thereby setting an 0f the
example of industry, and imparting a dignity to Moravians
labour. The ministers who are sent out from

the country

200 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
Germany must all be married men, the wives
being selected, not by their future husbands, but
by the governing body of the sect. Thrift among
the Moravians is universal. Their schools are
admirable. On March 5th we made an expedition by rail-
Excursion way to Balaklava, a distance of 75 miles. The
kiava difficulties which the engineers of the line have
surmounted may be appreciated from the fact that
Balaklava, distant 75 miles from Kingston, stands
at an elevation of 1,800 feet above the sea. The
engines being fitted with bogies, the sharp curves
Scenery of offer no difficulties. The views throughout were
delightful. The broad sweeps of grass dotted with
single trees, with occasional thickets of denser
growth, recalled the scenery of an English park,
though the trees are those of the tropics. The
cattle, of the shorthorn breeds of our own country,
thrive marvellously under a sun and in a climate
vastly different from that of England, with its
chilly wind and sullen skies. By frequent and
swift transition the scene would change from
sylvan prospects of broad expanse and abundant
pasture to some narrow gorge, hemmed in by
rocks and shaded by hanging woods of impene
trable density. Or, again, emerging from a short
tunnel through the limestone, and skirting a
precipice of giddy height, a view of vast extent
would be suddenly disclosed, ridge rising beyond
ridge as far as the eye could reach.
The experiences of the constructors of the line

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 201

to Balaklava exemplify the uniformity in the cost
of labour all over the world. The pay of the
navvy in Jamaica ranges from one to two shillings c°st o£.
a day. To the labourer of the same class in the Jamaica
United States six shillings a day would be paid.
And yet the cost of construction is approximately
the same in the two countries. In connection
with wages and the cost of labour, it was observed,
with equal generosity and wisdom, by the presi
dent of the railway, that it was desirable that
wages in Jamaica should rise from the low stand
ard of one shilling a day, which, though sufficient
to provide the bare necessities of life in a genial
climate, will certainly not secure to the labourers
decent dwellings or any of the benefits of civilisa
tion. We reached our destination in three hours and
a half. On alighting from the train we were f aSava"
received by the leading people of the district, assembly
headed by the episcopal clergyman. The party
then proceeded to the market-place, where several
thousand people had assembled. They had come
in from the surrounding districts, dressed in clothes
which a stranger might have supposed were their
' Sunday best,' but which were the costumes of
every day. The negress loves the gayest prints
that can be supplied from the looms of Lancashire,
and the mixture of colours was rich and har
monious. The crowd sang ' God Save the Queen '
with loyal enthusiasm, and listened with breathless
attention to the Governor's address. Not a scowl

202 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Simpleness
of the
natives

Marinebiology at
Jamaica

Visit Port
Royal

LeaveJamaica

or a sign of discontent was seen. It is impossible
not to like these amiable and simple people. It
should be the pride of England to retain the affec
tion of a race she has emancipated from thraldom.
If little of material advantage can be gained from
the connection, there is a moral greatness in
keeping people who need it under our protecting
care. To the negro, leaders are essential. In the
neighbouring island of Hayti we see how low men
may fall without the helping hand.
Sir Henry and Lady Blake have much at heart
the establishment of a marine biological station at
Jamaica. Nothing of the sort is at present in
existence in tropical, latitudes, and the constant
current of the Gulf Stream will, it is believed,
bring to the station at Jamaica a rich treasure of
specimens of the marine life of the Atlantic in low
latitudes. The project will, it is hoped, be liber
ally aided by the Imperial Government and by
personal contributions. It has been warmly
commended by Professor Huxley, Professor Bay
Lankester, Professor Flower, and Lord Eosse, and
has been taken up in the United States.
March 8. — Weighed at 6 a.m. Steamed down
the bay to Port Eoyal. Walking through the
naval hospital, and over the adjacent space of
well-drained ground belonging to the war depart
ment, washed by the waves, and with an atmo
sphere freshened by the daily breezes from the sea,
it is difficult to realise the causes which make the
place unhealthy. Proceeding to sea, we encoun-

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 203
tered a strong trade-wind, and off Morant Point
had a hard struggle for a couple of hours. In the
afternoon we steamed pleasantly along the north
coast of Jamaica. The mountains rise to a height
of 7,000 feet, their slopes broken by deep ravines,
and covered with the richest tropical vegetation.
The lower levels, near the coast, are of great fer
tility, and sugar is extensively grown. At 5 p.m.
we made the entrance to Port Antonio, and
shortly afterwards were safely moored in its land- Anchor in
locked waters. The scenery of the harbour is Antonio
exquisite. The town is charmingly situated on a
peninsula, dividing the harbour into two parts.
Eocks jut out from the shore in many places.
The vegetation is most luxuriant. Among the
trees are seen the church and the straggling
dwellings clustered round it, forming a delightful
picture. March 9. — Landed at 6.30 A.M. Port An- Port
tonio is a principal place of shipment for the large ana°ocho
supply of bananas now furnished by Jamaica to
the United States. A steamer and several
schooners were loading their cargoes of fruit. An
air of plenty and happiness rests on this lovely
spot. We anchored at noon at Ocho Eios, a
favourite anchorage of Her Majesty's ships on
this station, less land-locked than Port Antonio.
If the foreground has not quite the charm of our
last anchorage, the distant views are supremely
beautiful. From this port we took our departure
in the afternoon for Cuba.

Kios

204 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Leave
Jamaica. Arrive at
Havana

The town

Theharbour and
shipping

Favoured by the trade-wind, we entered the
harbour of Havana at 8 p.m. on March 14th. The
town itself has been well-described by James W.
Steele, in a recent volume, as ' a low-lying city, of
parti-coloured architecture, the walls of which are
red, blue, and yellow ; a city in which there is not
a chimney, a cooking-stove, a four-storey house,
or a side walk three feet wide ; and yet a city of
near 300,000 souls.' Havana is utterly without
shade. In its mean and miserable plazas not a
tree is seen of growth sufficiently luxuriant to
give the smallest protection from the rays of a
burning sun. The throng in the streets is a mot
ley gathering of Spaniards, negroes, Cubans, and
Chinese. Smoking is the universal occupation in
this land of indolence. The spacious and well-
sheltered harbour is entered by a narrow channel
commanded by the guns of the Spanish citadel, or
Moro. Beyond the entrance it spreads into two
spacious anchorages, divided by a peninsula, on
which are erected large sheds and storehouses.
The flag of the Spanish Admiral was carried on a
powerful cruiser ; and seven smaller vessels, rang
ing from the sloop to the gunboat, were anchored
round the flag-ship. Steamers of the largest class
enter and leave Havana daily, communicating
with Cadiz, St. Nazaire, Colon, Tampa and New
York. A numerous fleet of three-masted schooners,
under the American flag, is always lying here.
Our immediate neighbours were some fine barques,
which bring petroleum from the States and return

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 205
with cargoes of molasses. The harbour is inde
scribably filthy, and in the hot season most
unhealthy. Visitations of yellow fever are fre
quent and severe. The sanitary conditions will
be materially improved by cutting a channel from
the head of the harbour to the sea.
March 15. — Went by train to Matanzas, start- a trip to
ing at 6 a.m., and arriving at our destination, a by rail
distance of some seventy miles, in two hours and
a half. The railway is in excellent order, and well
worked, with American rolling-stock. The scenery
presents no striking features. The riches derived
from cultivation are not largely bestowed upon the
labourers. The dwellings of the small farmers and Native
field-hands consist of twigs and bark, this imperfect
shelter being shared with the pigs and poultry.
The family form a group round their humble shed,
clothed wretchedly, yet evidently not enduring the
pinch of poverty as it would be felt under a less
serene sky. Here and there the railway passes a
sugar-estate, usually well equipped. Mr. Steele
states in his Cuban sketches that some sugar-
estates employ from 500 to 700 hands, and work
400 head of oxen, besides mules and horses. They
make their own gas, lime, and bricks, and construct
their own railways. A considerable acreage is de
voted to the cultivation of the plantain. Every
kind of vegetable is grown in abundance. At Ma
tanzas we found a string of volantes awaiting our
arrival. A volante is a specially Cuban invention, a voiante
It carries you over the most uneven roads with the

206 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

least possible shaking and jolting. It may be
described as a small cabriolet mounted on a huge
pair of wheels, and drawn by two mules, one being
yoked to elongated shafts, while the other, ridden
by a postillion, is loosely attached to the vehicle by
traces of such length that the tail of the postillion's
horse is level with the nose of the wheeler. A
short drive brought us to the summit of a hill,
where we alighted, and, under the welcome shade
of a row of laurel trees, looked down on the bay
view of the filled with American three-masted schooners.
From the port of Matanzas a large quantity of
produce of the island is shipped. Descending to
the harbour, and following the shore for a distance
of four miles, we arrived at the stalactite caves,
which are the great natural wonder of these parts.
Cuba and Tn bidding farewell to Cuba, a few words may
its govern- . J
ment perhaps be said about the Government. The
casual visitor cannot fail to be impressed with the
evidences of inefficient administration. The fiscal
policy is intensely exclusive. The taxation is heavy
Despotic an <J the Government absolutely despotic. The
views of . . . .
Spain police maintain a system ot intolerable espionage.
E very salaried servant of the local government is
a Spaniard, who regards Cuba as a vassal state
over which Spain has unlimited rights, without
reciprocal duties or obligations. The system has
already severed all her noble settlements in South
America from the mother country. In time it
must involve the loss of Cuba.
On March 16th a moderate trade-wind was

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 207
blowing, to which we made sail for the Chesapeake. Leave
The atmosphere was* serene and balmy, the sky
almost cloudless. We were in company with
several fine three-masted schooners. At noon the
next day we had made good a distance of 125 miles
against a fresh north-east trade wind, but assisted
by nearly sixty miles of current. In the afternoon
the wind drew to the eastward, and we were able
to lay our course, with sheets eased Off, under the
shelter of the Bahama Banks ; temperature over
80°. The following day it was blowing fresh from
the S.W., and on March 19th we were contending
with a revolving gale. Beginning at S., and Arevoiving
gradually veering by the W. to N.W., the centre
was to the westward and moving to the N.E.
March 20. — At noon, the weather having mode
rated, we had made good 202 knots, under all
possible sail. In the evening the wind died away
to a calm. At midnight we were under steam.
March 21. — At 11 a.m. made Cape Lookout. At
midnight, anchored in Hatteras Cove. March Anchor in
22. — Weighed at 6 a.m. At midnight made Cape c0aveeras
Henry, the southern cape of the entrance to the
great inland sea of the Chesapeake. At 3 a.m.
on the 23rd, entered the Chesapeake before a fresh Enter the
breeze from the S.E. ; set all plain sails, with peafo"
studsails. Ban along eleven knots over a sea
without a ripple. At 10 a.m., entered the Potomac.
The distance from Cape Henry to the entrance Extent of
of the river Potomac is over sixty miles, and thence. pea£ esa~
to Washington ninety miles. The Chesapeake,

208 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
the most extensive and important estuary on the
eastern seaboard of North America, is about 170
miles in length, with a general north and south
direction. The width varies from twenty miles to
three miles. On the western side it receives the
waters of the James, York, Eappahannock, Po
tomac, Pavtuxent, Patapsco, and Susquehanna
rivers. The James is navigable for vessels of 7 feet
draught as high as Eichmond, and for seventy
miles from its mouth for vessels drawing 15 feet.
The Potomac is navigable for vessels of 21 -feet
draught as far as Washington. The other rivers
named are all navigable. The total area drained
into the Chesapeake is not less than 60,000 square
miles. The facilities afforded by this vast inland sea
Navigation and its tributaries for the purposes of navigation
in" trade'" are thoroughly utilised. The waters are crowded
with fleets of schooners — from the five-master,
capable of carrying a cargo of 1,500 tons, to the
yacht-like little vessel which cannot venture beyond
Cape Henry. The labour-saving skill of the
Americans is nowhere better illustrated than in
the extensive coasting-trade of the country. By
Coasting adopting fore-and-aft rig, and using a steam winch
for weighing the anchor, hoisting the sails, and
working the cargo, it is found possible to navigate
with crews averaging one hand, including officers,
to every 100 or 150 tons of cargo carried. The
coasting schooners of the United States are smart
in appearance, as well as economical in working.

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 209
The hulls are fine models, broad in beam, with a
good sheer, and long, flat floor. The sails are skil
fully cut, and are set in a seamanlike manner.
During our voyage up to Washington the sky was
cloudless, and the sun shone with a pale, soft,
yellow light upon the broad river flowing calmly
and majestically to the sea. With such lovely
sunlight effects the tamest landscapes possess an
indefinable charm. At sunset we anchored.
March 24. — Weighed at 6 a.m. and proceeded proceed up
under steam. Two years had elapsed since our p0etomac
pilot had last made a trip to Washington, and he
had but an imperfect recollection of the buoyage,
which is frequently changed. His anxieties did
not grow less as we advanced higher up the
Potomac. At 11 a.m. we passed Mount Vernon, the
justly- venerated home of the noble founder of this
great Eepublic. We saluted the American flag by
dipping the ensign and tolling the ship's bell.
Shortly after this ceremony had been performed,
and when nearly abreast of Fort Washington, we
ran aground, owing to our ignorance of the fact Run
that a buoy had been recently shifted from the left agroun
to the right bank of the river. Three hours later,
on the rising tide, with the engines going full speed
astern, and a heavy strain on a kedge, we succeeded
in getting afloat. In the interval we had received Get off and
two most kind offers of assistance from the ' Dol- walhing-
phin,' U.S.N., and from a fine river-steamer, the ton
' Macalister,' returning with a party which had
been making a pious pilgrimage to Mount Vernon.
VOL. II. P

210 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

I will not give all the details of a pleasant visit
to the American capital. Among the many objects
Visit to the of interest visited, we went over the Navy Yard.
avy ard rp^g jjaVy Yard in Washington is practically the
gun-foundry for the American Navy, and ship
building is hardly attempted. The work consists
in assembling the different parts of a gun when
delivered to the Government from the private
trade. The metallurgical industry of the United
States is distinguished for ingenuity and enterprise.
It will be in a condition in a short time to supply
anything for which there is a steady demand for
the use of the Navy. The new gun foundry is an
example of what can be accomplished in this
country. The establishment consists of two prin
cipal workshops, of truly magnificent proportions.
The tools are the perfection of ingenious contri
vance. Every idea of the European makers has
been examined, and whatever seemed good has
been adopted. The work for this foundry has been
carried out on a strictly eclectic principle. No
prejudices have interfered in the endeavour to
attain to perfection. The largest gun in the United
States navy is the 13-inch gun. We saw several
of these monsters in various stages of advancement.
Close and constant attention has been given to the
quick-firing ordnance.
In Congress attention is at present concentrated
on the silver question. The free-silver men are
making a determined effort ; but the strong finan
cial influences of New York are against bi-metallism.

The gun
foundry

Perfectionof the
machinery

The silver
-question

A TRIP TO THE AVEST INDIES IN 1892 211
If the production increases in greater ratio than
the production of gold, no action on the part of
governments can prevent a fall in the price of
silver. In so far as the fall arises from demoneti
sation, the value may be raised by an increased
use of silver for coinage. The combined efforts
of the leading financial countries may throw further
and valuable light upon the discussion.
We also visited the Supreme Court, the House Public
of Congress, and the Senate. The central hall of
the Capitol is adorned with pictures, perhaps of
more merit as historical records than as works of
art. We were struck by the thoroughly English
type of Washington and his contemporaries. It
is touching to see the New England pilgrims pre
sented here, as they are at Westminster, assembled
on their knees on the deck of the ' Mayflower.'
Their memorable voyage is of equal concern to
the country they left behind and to that in which
they settled.
A reference should not be omitted to the
Washington Monument, a simple obelisk of white The Wash-
marble of perfect proportions, rising to a height of Monument
five hundred and twenty-five feet, and standing on
a grassy slope by the waters of the Potomac. In
its majestic elevation, in its simplicity and beauty
of design, it is worthy of the great name it com
memorates. No inscription has been attempted.
Washington's fame is recorded in the pages of
history, and the visitor of to-day is wisely left to
his own reflections. p 2

212 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Mr. Blaine
on the
Eastern
question

Leave
Washing
ton. Down the
Potomac

Across the
AtlanticArrive at
Plymouth

Nihil ex omnibus rebus humanis est prseclarius aut priestantius
quam de republica bene mereri.
In the afternoon called on.Mr. Blaine. Among
many things discussed we turned to the situation
at Constantinople. Mr. Blaine thinks that England
should resist the advance of Eussia, and that our
prestige will be lowered if we allow a position, over
which we have long claimed a commanding influ
ence, to pass without a struggle under the control
of another power. Called on Mr. Secretary Tracey
who presides over the naval department. He is
an able lawyer, with no technical knowledge. We
talked of ship-building. He thinks big guns, and
consequently large ships, indispensable for putting
in the heavy blows.
March 30. — At 9.30 a.m. proceeded under steam
down the Potomac without a pilot. I had ob
tained the latest United States charts from the
master of the yacht ' Lurline.' During the day
we slightly touched the ground twice, owing to
our amiability in going out of the main channel to
avoid doing injury to the nets of fishermen. At
7.30 anchored between Blakistone Island and
Piney Point. The next morning weighed at
5.30 a.m. and proceeded under steam. At noon
we were sailing down the Chesapeake, homeward
bound, on a bitterly cold day, with an east wind
and a rising barometer. At midnight passed out
to sea. On April 19 landed at Plymouth.
In bringing this hasty and imperfect description
of our cruise to a close, we may appropriately ask

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 213
ourselves how far has England been successful in Reflection
performing the duties which a wealthy and power- voyage.
ful country owes to dependencies in the state of tudetoand
advancement which we have found in the West poi>ltlonm tne
Indies ? Our first responsibility is that of giving West
protection from external foes. For this purpose
the Imperial fleet is the most effective instrument.
There have been intervals in the past when the
public was imperfectly informed and too little
concerned as to the state of the navy. Those
were days when the Government and Parliament
were tempted to seek an ephemeral popularity by
cutting down expenditure. Economy was carried
far beyond the prevention of waste. The main
elements of naval power were seriously curtailed.
In recent years a firm resolve has been taken to
preserve our naval supremacy, and to keep our increase of
dependencies secure under the guardianship of strength
powerful fleets.
Come the three corners of the world in arms,
And we shall shock them. Nought shall make us rue,
If England to herself do rest but true.
Turning to social advancement and material
prosperity, it will be evident that those who have
lately cruised in the ' Sunbeam ' have returned
with brighter impressions than those formed by improved
some previous travellers. When Mr. Froude oTthe6" y
visited the West Indies in 1887, extreme depres- lslands
sion prevailed, and the gloom which had settled
upon those islands is reflected in every page of the
narrative of his voyage. In the interval which

214 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892

Future
development.
Impor tance of
good governors

Vast extent
of land un
cultivated

has since elapsed a happy change has passed upon
that portion of our colonial empire with which we
have been dealing. All the elements of trade, and
all the statistics which indicate the improving or
declining condition of a country show a satisfactory
tendency. In the work of future development the main
service which we can render to our West Indian
possessions is to appoint good men to fill the office
of governor. The legislature and the executive
staff are equally dependent on his initiative and
control. At the present time the governors of the
West Indian Islands are engaged in a task full of
promise for the future, which could only be under
taken under the impulse of disinterested motives
and with the support of commanding influence.
The work to which I allude is the elevation of the
negro population into the condition of peasant
proprietors. It is to men in the position of a
governor that we look to deal with such a question
with a single eye to the greatest happiness of the
greatest number. The vast extent of land avail
able for cultivation, but still unoccupied, is one of
the most striking features in the present condition
of the West Indies. Barbados is the only island
at which we touched in our recent cruise, of which
it may be said that - its resources have been fully
developed. In Trinidad, with a total of 1,120,000
acres, 194,000. are cultivated. Grenada has an
acreage of 76,653, and 22,000 acres under cultiva
tion. St. Vincent has a total acreage of 85,000,

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 215
and 13,000 under cultivation. In St. Lucia only
one-third of the island has ever been cultivated.
In Jamaica the total area available for cultivation
is 2,312,000 acres, the total under cultivation
being 612,570 acres.
In the local legislatures of the several islands Peasant
the planters naturally wield a dominant influence, tors.
Their interests and those of the people they em- by the' '°n
ploy are not in all respects identical. The condi- Planters
tion of the labourers would be greatly improved if
they could become more generally peasant pro
prietors. Legislation for such an object is opposed
by the planters, who rightly think that if the
negroes become owners of the soil, they would be
less ready than at present to work for wages,
averaging on a sugar estate a shilling a day for
men and tenpence for women. Success in sugar
planting, with the low prices now reigning, can
only be secured by cheapening the cost of produc
tion. If the establishment of a peasant proprie
tary should create a difficulty in obtaining native
labour for plantations, carried on upon a large '
scale, the importation of coolie labour would be the
effective remedy.
The West Indies are scarcely yet ripe for a More self-
larger measure of self-government than they at ment not
present possess. In the smaller islands, where desirable
representative institutions were established, they
have been abolished at the request of the people.
In the larger islands legislatures are constituted
on a hybrid system, combining nominated and

216 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
elected members. To this rule Trinidad is the
principal exception, all the members of Council
being appointed by the Crown. The Constitution
The of Jamaica consists of a Governor, a Privy
Sgisiatures Council, and a Legislative Council of nominated
and elected members. The electoral qualification
is the annual payment of twenty shillings in rates
or taxes. In Barbados the Government consists
of a Governor, a Legislative Council, and a House
of Assembly. Under the Franchise Act of 1884
the electorate has been expanded from 1,641 to
4,200 electors. Subject to the Governor's veto,
all power over legislation and finance rests with the
Assembly. The very able Chief Justice of
Barbados, Sir George Beeves, himself a man of
colour, considers that in their present state of ad-
Opinionof vancement sufficient self-government has been
Reeves°rge given to the people. He is equally convinced that
the autocratic system of a Crown colony, unchecked
by some form of popular representation, is detest
able. The advancement of the British colonies in
the West Indies has been largely promoted by the
free constitution of the local government and by
the freedom of commerce.
An outlet p0r the employment of British capital the
for British f: *-
capital West Indies offer a field, productive indeed, but
limited in extent. Success will necessarily, and in
all cases, depend on the local management. Un
counted millions of capital have been raised in the
central money-market of London, only to be fooled
away in ill-conceived and misdirected enterprises

A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 217
abroad, in localities too remote to be visited by
shareholders, or even by boards of directors, often
composed of unpractised and unpractical men.
Allusion has already been made to the evils of
absentee ownership in Jamaica. It is useless to
pour capital into these islands unless competent
and vigorous local management has been previously
secured. The West Indies afford excellent oppor- Field for
tunities for young and enterprising men with a as p"fnters
small capital at- their command, who would be
prepared, after sufficient local experience had been
gained, to undertake the business of the planter.
There is much to encourage in the success which
has attended private enterprise in the French
West Indies, mainly in consequence of the peculiar
assiduity with which French proprietors attend to
their plantations.
As a field for colonisation by Europeans, and The West
more particularly by British settlers, the West foicoioni-
Indies cannot be recommended. On the loftiest satl0n
slopes of the Blue Mountains of Jamaica a limited
area may perhaps be found where a northern race
might enjoy a suitable climate. In the low lands
near the sea, the white man could not live and
work. In the high lands of the interior, working
in the morning and evening, he could easily- ac
complish seven hours a day of hard labour.
Jamaica is an island in which the experiment of
colonisation for our surplus population might
safely be tried on a small scale. The promoters
of the railway now being constructed, partly on

218 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892
the land-grant scheme, would probably be glad to
co-operate in carrying out a project of the nature
indicated. In the Cayman Islands, with 4,322
inhabitants, two populations are to be seen side
by side. The white population numbers 1,602, the
coloured 1,728, and the black 992. The whites
have been settled more than a century, and have
been a thriving and vigorous people. It is an im
portant fact to notice that a mixed or coloured
race cannot perpetuate itself. The children are
wanting in stamina and constitution.
Taking a broad view, these lovely islands are
only suited to a tropical race such as the negroes,
and for these they may be made an earthly para
dise. Left to themselves, the people might
Progress of rapidly degenerate. Under British rule we may,
undera 'VeB in a not-distant future, confidently hope to see the
British rule black population of our West Indian Islands living
in prosperous circumstances, with all the markets
of the world open to their useful products, good
customers to the British manufacturer, bound to
the British Empire by the strongest ties of grati
tude, and raised to a condition of enlightenment
and civilisation, only as yet attained by a few men
who have been greatly favoured.

219

IX
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94
Repbintbd by permission peom the 'Nineteenth Centuby,'
June 1894
Having had the honour of being appointed to serve
on the Opium Commission, it was finally decided
to go out to Calcutta in the ' Sunbeam.' Sailing Leave
from Portsmouth on the 22nd, we reached Gibral- ^
tar on September 30, Spezia on the 5th, and Port |° *^|
Said on October 14. Of the total distance from Arrive at
England, 1,852 miles had been covered under sail
and 1,716 under steam. Leaving the ' Sunbeam '
at Ismailia, it was a delightful interruption to a
long sea voyage to run up for a couple of days to
Cairo. A page from my diary may be appropriately
inserted : —
October 16. — On the morning after our arrival
we drove out to the Great Pyramid, and ascended The Great
its steep and broken steps, as much impeded as yramid
assisted by swarms of Arabs, with insatiable appe
tite for backsheesh. Immensity of size and mar
vellous accuracy of construction are obvious
features, which must deeply impress every traveller.
Arrived at the summit, the view was most beau-

220 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94
tiful. The delta, a vast plain of luxuriant fertility,
walled in by hills of burning sand and dazzling
limestone, lay stretched at our feet. The over
flowing waters of the Nile formed an endless chain
of lakes, bordered by green groves, fresh pastures,
and growing crops.
Our posi- To govern Egvpt under present conditions is
tion in , ¦ -, , -? ,, , •
Egypt no light task. In all the circumstances, a per
manent British occupation is perhaps the only
possible alternative. Egypt could not stand alone.
If European control were withdrawn, the corrup
tion, oppression, and incapacity of old days would
promptly reappear. When we interfered to suppress
the rebellion of Arabi, France was invited to act
with us. The Government assented, but the
Chamber refused to vote the necessary supplies.
We decided to proceed single-handed, although
our material interest in averting a repudiation of
debt by a successful insurrection was far less con
siderable than that of France. From the point of
view of British interests, strictly and exclusively
regarded, the position we hold in Egypt would be
absolutely valueless unless we had a naval supre
macy in the Mediterranean. Having the command
of the sea, we could prevent the occupation of
Egypt, by any rival power, and our highway to the
East would be guarded by the fleet. Without that
command, our few regiments in Egypt would be
a force in the air, as helpless as Napoleon's army
after the defeat of his fleet by Nelson at the battle
of the Nile.

Sea

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 221
Leaving Suez on the 18th, we arrived at Aden Leave Suez
on October 27. In the northern part of the Bed at Aden
Sea we experienced delightful weather, smooth
seas, favourable breezes, and no excessive heat.
When the northerly winds died away, the condi
tions were less propitious. Under the combined
effects of the sun and the stoke-hole the tempera
ture in the cabins gradually rose and remained at
93° for several days.
In the Bed Sea the assistance afforded to the
mariner is by no means equal to the requirements
of an active and enormously valuable trade. Two
or three additional lights, in well-selected positions, Additional
would greatly facilitate navigation in the southern tife^ed
part of the Bed Sea. The shipowners interested
should move the Board of Trade to take the neces
sary action. It has been proposed to establish a
light on Cape Guardafui. It has been objected
that a dense mist hangs about the land during the
south-west monsoon. If the position on Cape
Guardafui is considered unsuitable, it is the more
necessary that a light should be placed on the
south-westernmost island of the Socotra group.
All steamers proceeding from Aden to Colombo
and the Far East steer close along its southern
shore. During the last three days of the passage to
Aden, we were delayed by a south-east wind, some
times blowing with the force of a gale. By
navigating close in with the African shore, as
recommended in the sailing directions, we kept in

222

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Leave
Aden

Arrive at
Colombo. Go on
board' Kaiser-i-
Hind'

Madras

smooth water. Between Suez and Aden we
covered 467 miles under sail, and 992 under
steam. We sailed from Aden at sunset on October 28.
Off Socotra, at dawn on November 1, the P. and
0. steamer ' Oceana ' passed, about five miles to
windward, going east. My son and his wife were
among the passengers. A week later, just before
rounding the island of Minikoi, green and refreshing
with its grove of cocoa-nuts, another P. and 0.
steamer, the ' Kaiser-i-Hind,' steamed by, having
on board two members of the Opium Commission.
On November 10 the ' Sunbeam ' reached Colombo.
Here I transferred myself, not without reluctance,
to the ' Kaiser-i-Hind.' The ' Sunbeam,' following
close behind, arrived at the Sand Heads on Novem
ber 17, having covered a total distance from Aden
of 787 miles under sail, 325 under steam and sail,
and 2,442 under steam.
Passing to the concluding stage of the voyage
to Calcutta, we landed at Madras. In common
with the other Presidency towns, it boasts of
public buildings, creditable in their architecture,
and of lordly dimensions. The native town seemed
mean and miserable. We saw it under the dis
advantageous conditions created by a remorseless
downpour of tropical rain. The change of climate
as we steamed northward from Madras was most
agreeable. The sky was cloudless, and the heat
was tempered by a cool breeze from the north
east. We reached the Sand Heads at 10 p.m., and

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 223

ascended under the charge of a pilot as far as
Saugar, where we anchored for the night.
Starting a little before noon on November 18,
six hours' steaming on a rising tide brought us to Amve at
# # , v. 'fLlCUtjtjQi
Calcutta. The navigation of the Hooghly is difficult
and sometimes dangerous. The shoals are con
stantly shifting, and the tides are strong. The
banks of the river are flat, and rise but a few feet
above high-water mark. The delta of the Ganges
is rich and highly cultivated. At this season of
the year the fields are green with crops, soon to
ripen for the early harvest. The villages are
numberless. Everywhere the country is well
wooded. To eyes which for weeks had rested on
nothing but the waste of waters the scene was
pleasant and refreshing.
Our life in Calcutta was most fully occupied. Occupation
The days began, shortly after sunrise, with a gallop
on the Maidan. The Opium Commission sat,
with few interruptions, from half-past ten some
times until late in the afternoon. A walk or an
occasional game at lawn-tennis was generally ac
complished in the charming hour before sunset.
The evenings were given to society.
Having gone to Calcutta on a mission which,
though undertaken at the wish of the Government
of India, was sure to be the subject of criticism, it
seemed the more a duty to respond to calls on
behalf of public objects lying outside the scope of
our immediate work. I joined an international Ships and
Shipmasters' Club, and had the advantage of

224

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

The
Hooghly

Calcutta.The town
and resi
dences

meeting a number of shipmasters on several occa
sions, for the discussion of matters relating to ships
and sailors. The seamen visiting Calcutta are of
unequal quality. Many are ruined in this port.
The conduct of others is beyond reproach. The
long-voyage trades are trying alike to the seamen
and to their officers. The social privations are the
most serious hardship. Many men may be absent
from home for two years continuously. Such a
life is suitable only on first going to sea.
After spending ten days with the acting Lieu
tenant-Governor of Bengal, at Belvedere, we re
turned for a fortnight to the ' Sunbeam.' The
anchorage in the Hooghly is bright and breezy.
The perpetual movements of native boats make
the river an animated scene. On leaving the
' Sunbeam ' we spent eight days at Darjeeling.
Eeturning to Calcutta, we were guests for more
than a week at Government House.
And now it is time to say something of Cal
cutta. It stands on the right bank of the Hooghly,
whose broad stream is the centre and the source of
the commerce of this busy seaport. The wide
esplanade known as Garden Beach extends some
four miles below the city. Here may always be
seen a noble fleet of sailing-ships, moored in tiers,
four deep. Garden Beach forms the river front of
the green and well-wooded Maidan, or park of
Calcutta, which in extent exceeds all the parks of
London thrown together. In its centre is Fort
William, a strong fortress and the official seat of

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 225
Government. On the side remote from the river
the Maidan is bounded by the Chowringhee road.
This handsome esplanade and the streets leading
to it form the residential quarter of Calcutta for
Europeans. The houses are large, many being
occupied as flats, or shared between two occupants.
They stand widely apart, in pleasant gardens. The
cathedral is a principal architectural feature. Its
services are largely attended.
The business centre of Calcutta divides the
Maidan from the native quarter. Here are found
the offices of the central and presidential Govern- Public
ments, the law courts, the fine city hall, the post "' mg"
office, with its noble Corinthian colonnade and
lofty dome, the spacious counting-houses of the
leading banks, and many shops, not rivalled in any
provincial city at home.
Government House, with its perfectly kept Govem-
garden, would command admiration in any capital House
in Europe. The interior contains a suite of halls
and rooms for state reception. The ball-room,
adorned by a colonnade of pure white pillars,
slightly relieved by gilding, is not overcrowded
when fifteen hundred guests are assembled. As
the seat of the Central Government and of the
Government of the largest Presidency, the head
quarters for the superior courts, and a great trading
emporium, a large and agreeable social world is
gathered at Calcutta.
Our trip to Darjeeling may be briefly described. Trip to
This most beautiful of hill stations is the centre of DarJeeling
VOL. II. Q

226

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Railway ascent of
the Himalayas

Scenery
from the
line

the noblest mountain scenery of the world. A
journey of some sixteen hours by railway, over the
delta of the Ganges and across the widest mouth
of the river, carries the traveller to the foot of the
Himalayas. With the earliest dawn some snow-
clad peaks were visible. At Siliguri there is a
break of gauge, and travellers are transferred to
the Darjeeling Himalayan railway. The line,
which is laid on the finely engineered hill cart-
road previously in existence, has a two-foot gauge.
Inclines of one in twenty-eight are ascended
without difficulty, and the trains wind round the
sharpest curves with perfect safety. The speed is
nearly twelve miles, and the ascent is made at the
rate of a thousand feet an hour. The physical
difficulties have taxed to the uttermost the re
sources of the engineer. The climbing is con
tinuous, here by convolutions as of the corkscrew,
there by zigzags, sometimes by holding on as long
as possible to the sky-line of some sharp and pre
cipitous buttress of the great chain into the heart
of which we were penetrating. The views from
the railroad are beyond all my powers of descrip
tion. At the commencement of the ascent the
line passes through the dense jungle of the Terai,
the haunt of the tiger and the wild elephant. Eising
above the jungle, a region is gained where the tea-
plant flourishes, and here, far as the eye can reach,
clearing after clearing can be seen, each with its
homestead of white buildings, the residences of the
European managers, and the sheds in which the

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 227
tea is prepared for market. The prospect varies
at every instant, embracing at one turn of the- road
the snow-clad range forming the topmost crest of
the Himalayas, at the next some thickly wooded
gorge, down which, three thousand feet below, a
silvery mountain stream can be traced, until it
flows out into the mist-covered plain.
The change from the temperature of Calcutta change of
to that of a frosty English December, without tu™pera"
English appliances for resisting cold, was most
sudden, and at first rather trying.
Darjeeling is a scattered settlement, houses Darjeeling.
having been built wherever space could be found, settlement
The shoulder of rock on which Darjeeling stands
forms the termination of a gigantic spur, thrust
out from the main chain of the Himalayas, first in
a southerly direction, then recurving eastwards,
and finally bending northwards. The settlement
is hemmed in on the north, the east, and the west
by the deep glens of the Eamam and Eangut rivers.
Looking from Darjeeling northwards, across the
deep glen of the Eangut, the Himalayas are seen
in all their magnificence. The peak of Kinchin- Peak of
junga, more than 28,000 feet in height, is the
central feature. As the crow flies it is forty miles
distant, though in this clear atmosphere it appears
much nearer. Kinchinjunga is the highest point
of a splendid pyramidal group, rising gradually up,
ridge upon ridge and peak above peak, in forms as
varied as they are beautiful. This noble mountain
mass is detached from the main dorsal chain of

Kinchinjunga

228

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Christmas
Day in
Calcutta

Our posi
tion in
India

the Himalayas. The highest ridges can be traced
round Kinchinjunga, from Mount Everest on the
west to the mountains of Thibet on the east.
Eastward numberless spires and buttresses are
seen descending into the plains of Bengal from the
main range, through Sikkim and far away into
Assam, with graceful yet sharply defined sky-lines.
Looking west the view is cut short by the great
spur on which Darjeeling itself stands. The deep
valleys and richly wooded slopes are as the fore
ground in a scene of indescribable grandeur and
beauty. Returning to life in Calcutta, on Christmas
Day great efforts were made on board the ships in
the harbour to observe the season by suitable
decoration. Admiral Kennedy, the commander-in-
chief on the East India station, with his flag-ship,
the ' Boadicea,' the cruiser ' Brisk,' and the gun-
vessel ' Redbreast,' made a brave show. On the
' Sunbeam ' the bulwarks were hung with festoons
of tropical foliage, while the words ' Wishing all a
Happy Christmas ' were spelt in bamboo letters
covered with green leaves, hung from the covering
board to near the water-line.
We heard much serious talk at Calcutta of the
general unrest which is observable throughout the
country. Any government by conquerors differing
in race, language, faith, and social customs from
the people under their rule must necessarily be
more or less unsympathetic. The sharp lessons of
the Mutiny have faded from the memories of the

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 229
present generation. Still less is there any recol
lection or even tradition of the misgovernment
which prevailed under the native rulers whom we
have displaced. Our difficulties in India can never
be altogether overcome. They have been intensi
fied in later years by the spread of education, and Spread of
-,.-, ¦ ¦ -, pi- p -r\ i education
by the ever-mcreasing number ot natives ot Bengal among the
who have shown an extraordinary aptitude for natlves
acquiring that kind of knowledge which secures
success in competitive examinations. The sole
aim of every educated native is to obtain, first,
employment, and then promotion in the Govern
ment service. Candidates are more numerous
than places, and the rejected and disappointed are
busy in fostering discontent. England should
maintain in India a rule of unfaltering justice, sup
ported, and that not inadequately, by a powerful
army of British troops, with such auxiliaries as
can be trusted with the confidence we give to our
Sikhs and Ghoorkas.
The aspirations of competent natives to share Share of
in the Government should by no means be denied, the govem-
We have already given them high offices on the ment
judicial bench. They are largely employed in the
Civil Service, and we are bound to advance them
gradually to higher positions than they have yet
filled. All this we may do ; but we shall commit
a fatal error if we look to maintain our military
hold over the country by any other forces than
those recruited in Great Britain.
New Year's Day was filled with engagements

230 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94
New Year's for every hour. We went early in the Viceregal
tivitieT cortege to the Maidan for the annual parade, when
the assumption of the title of Empress of India
by the Queen is celebrated. All the available
i forces are brought together on the occasion to fire
a, feu de joie, to give three cheers for the Queen,
and to march past the Viceroy. The total strength
was over 4,000 men. The marching of the British
regiments and of the field battery was exceptionally
good. At midday we went to the Sailors' Home,
where a dinner of good Christmas fare was pro
vided by public subscription for the European
sailors then in port. Covers were laid for 924
men. The forenoon had been occupied with
athletic sports, the various contests being open to
all comers of the seafaring class. In the long
jump, and in putting the shot, two of our ' Sun
beams ' gained the first prize. Another man was
second for the obstacle race, and eight of our men
won the tug of war. We did much better than
any other ship in port. In the evening a State
banquet of eighty covers was given at Government
House.
start for At 10 p.m. we started for Patna in the special
by rail train prepared for the Commission. We were
distributed in some fourteen carriages, each car
riage being divided into two compartments, each
compartment holding two travellers. The party
includes the nine Commissioners and a few rela
tives and friends. In addition, there is the staff

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 231
of shorthand writers and nearly 150 native
servants. January 3. — Beached Patna and detrained at Arrive at
10 a.m. A camp consisting of tents lent by the
Viceroy was pitched for our use in a field in the
European cantonment. The encampment included 0ur en-
*- *- campment
a large tent for meals and another for the sittings
of the Commission. Our own tent, as an acknow
ledgment of the responsibilities of the Chairman,
was placed at the end of two long lines, formed
by the eighteen tents appropriated to the other
members of the Commission, the secretaries,
shorthand staff, caterers, and European servants.
The scene was made gay with flowers. The next
three days were fully employed in the sittings of
the Commission.
January 5.- — Visited the opium factory. It is The opium
not necessary to describe the process by which
the drug that has filled so large a space in our
recent deliberations is prepared. In the final
stage the Government opium takes the shape of a
cannon-ball. The quantity in store at Patna not
rarely exceeds 1,000,0002. in value. In contrast
with this accumulation of valuable property, it is
interesting to note the low scale of pay for the
employes of the factory. We were told that the
native foreman — -the head man in an establishment
where some 1,500 hands are employed — receives
eleven rupees a month, the rupee at the present Wages of
rate of exchange being worth Is. 4c2. The wages the esta-
f or the working hands range from a penny a day IS iment

232

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Dwellingsand food

Proceed to
Benares

Troops at
the station

for children to fourpence, as a maximum, for men.
The wages of agricultural labourers in this part of
India do not exceed two annas, or a little more
than twopence a day. Even in the neighbourhood
of Calcutta, at the large and admirably equipped
Canning jute mills, which we visited, and where
from three to four thousand hands are employed,
the wages range from twopence to fourpence a
day. We are told that the natives are able to live,
according to their mode of existence, on this
miserable poor pay. Every member of a family
earns wages and contributes to the common fund.
Many of the cultivators possess a little patch of
their own. Their dwellings are of the most rudi
mentary description, consisting of the tiniest huts,
made of bamboo and matting. They have little
need of fuel. Their clothing consists entirely of
cotton cloth. Their food is millet, their drink
water. January 6. — Proceeded in the night tc Be
nares. Here we were encamped in the com
pound attached to a small palace belonging to the
Maharaja. The European cantonment occupies
a considerable space of undulating and park-like
ground, well planted with trees in groups. The
drought had been of long continuance, but the
grass was not yet burnt up. Adjoining the civil
cantonment are the barracks for European troops,
now occupied by a detachment of the Northum
berland Fusiliers. The men seemed in fine health.
They have a splendid expanse of grass for cricket

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 233
and football. It was a short walk of half a mile
from the European barracks to the quarters occu
pied by the 5th Bengal Light Infantry. These
native soldiers are fine fellows physically, good at
drill, and better shots than our own men. If we
may trust their fidelity, they are a valuable sup
port to the British force in India. It has been
decided lately to keep the native regiments homo
geneous, as far as possible, as to race and caste.
It is believed that each corps will be smarter and
more efficient on this system. The obvious disad
vantage is that a spirit of discontent, should it
arise, would spread more quickly through a regi
ment. We remained at Benares from the morning of
the 7th until 10 p.m. on the 9th. At dawn the
following morning we reached Lucknow. It is Go °n to
far the most attractive of all the places we have
visited since leaving Calcutta. The European TheEuro-
. . , . -i • n pean can-
cantonment covers a large space, traversed m all tonment
directions by broad and well-kept roads and fine
avenues. The river Gumti is a most attractive
feature. A considerable part of the adjoining
open ground has been laid out with great taste as
a park and garden.
As the old capital of the kings of Oudh, Luck
now contains many fine examples of Indian archi
tecture, which it is unnecessary to enumerate or
describe. The Eesidency, now in ruins, is the TheReBi-
centre of interest. It occupies hilly ground of during the
small elevation, and may be nearly two miles in Mutiny

234

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Memorial
to Sir
Henry
Lawrence

circuit. When the mutiny broke out, our garri
son consisted of the British 23rd Eegiment, with
some artillery and nearly a hundred officers from
the native regiments which had mutinied at
Cawnpore. The weakest places in the defence
had been palisaded, and the garrison was well
provisioned. This handful of less than a thou
sand fighting men was besieged by 60,000 rebels.
The fire of their heavy guns never ceased, and
assaults were delivered almost daily. The Eesi
dency was invested in July, and the first relief,
under Havelock, did not arrive until September.
In the interval, of a total number of 2,994 persons,
scarcely one thousand had survived. The gallant
resistance was carried on under great disadvan
tages to the besieged. They were completely
surrounded by the native town, which afforded
cover to the assailants close up to the lines of
defence. War gives opportunities for the noblest deeds
of heroism, patriotism, and self-sacrifice. Never
were those great qualities more signally displayed
than in the defence and relief of Lucknow. On
the tomb of Sir Henry Lawrence is inscribed an
epitaph which is equally appropriate to every man
who fought and fell at Lucknow : —

HERE LIES
HENRY LAWRENCE,
WHO TBIED TO DO HIS DUTY.

May the Lord have mercy on his soul

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 235
January 15, 16, and 17. — These days were
spent in camp at, Umballah, the work of the work at
Commission occupying the greater part of our Umbailah
daylight hours. The testimony of representatives
of the native States against any change in the
present policy in relation to opium was the leading
feature in the evidence taken.
Had an interview with the Maharaja of the The Maha-
State of Nabha, a fine old chieftain, who arrived ia]a
in camp with a military escort, to pay a visit to
Sir James Lyell. In the course of our conversa
tion the Maharaja remarked that the population
in these districts is rapidly increasing beyond the
means of maintaining them, and that a war was
needed to reduce the numbers. He condemned
the use of opium. Many of the witnesses before
the Commission were Sikhs, who, in common
with all the races inhabiting the Punjab, present
a striking contrast to the Bengalis in physical
strength and manly bearing.
From Umballah we proceeded to Lahore, and Lahore and
from Lahore to Delhi, arriving on the morning of
January 23. Every day was fully occupied in
taking evidence on the opium question. The Evidence
work on which we were engaged had the irksome- natiVes on
ness of monotony, and constant repetition of the * ^g°t?™
same arguments, the same opinions, and the same
statistics, whether for or against opium. But
there was much of interest in the witnesses them
selves. The extensive knowledge of English
among the natives of India is quite remarkable.

troops

236 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94
Many appeared before us, having no connection
with the public service, who, in ready command of
our mother tongue, were fully equal to the best
educated Englishmen. They experienced abso
lutely none of the difficulties which most of us
find when we endeavour to express our thoughts
in any other tongue than our own. They were
fluent to volubility, animated, argumentative, and
even eloquent. They were able to return fire
most effectively upon occasion, when placed under
the ordeal of cross-examination.
Native We saw a splendid Sikh regiment on parade
at Delhi. In physique and martial bearing the
men were equal to our Foot Guards. They are
drawn from a solid class of small yeomen-farmers.
The pay of a native infantry soldier is seven rupees
a month, and for this small sum he finds his pro
visions and all his undress kit. The native army
is a marvellously cheap force, and their officers
believe that the men may be trusted to stand by
us as long as we are able to show a bold front to
the enemy. They feel the prestige wliich belongs
to a Government sustained, as ours has thus far
been, through every difficulty and trial which we
have had to encounter. None can say what the
native soldier might do in case of serious reverses.
He may help us to avert, he might not help us to
retrieve, disaster.
We found time in the early mornings and
afternoons to see the mosques, the forts, and the
palace, so justly renowned as the very finest

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 237

examples of Oriental architecture. Delhi presents
indications of present prosperity in the recent of Delhi
erection of a large flour mill, two cotton mills,
and malting kilns on a colossal scale.
Leaving Delhi on the evening of the 24th, the
„ „ . . ¦ . Go on to
following morning we were in camp at Agra. Agra
Here, as elsewhere, the best hours of the day were
occupied with the business of the Commission,
the hearing of witnesses being conducted in a
large tent. We paid an almost daily visit to the
Taj and fort. An afternoon was given to a walk
to Abkar's tomb, about five and a half miles from
Agra. In some hasty notes of a former journey I
joined in paying the universal tribute of admira- Beaufc of
tion to the beauties of the Taj. In the present the Taj
visit we saw it in all its phases, at the hour before
sunset, in the full blaze of noonday, and by moon
light. The green garden, admirably planted, and
watered from many fountains, adds greatly to the
architectural effect. Its fresh verdure contrasts
admirably with the pearly whiteness of the temple.
It is impossible to describe the impression created
by this unrivalled combination of many beautiful
things, including the Taj itself, a central object of
supreme loveliness — the grand entrance gateway,
the garden, the pavilions, about midway down on
either side, the platform with its four graceful
minarets, so perfect in its proportions, forming a
substructure for the principal building, the two
fine mosques by which the Taj is flanked, and,
beyond all this wealth of art, the broad waters of

238

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

The fort at
Agra

The Muti
Musjid

Tomb of
Akbar

Jeypore

the Jumna and the not distant view of the fort
and palace of Agra.
The extensive fort at Agra, situated in a com
manding position on the banks of the river, is not
inferior to the noble structure of Delhi. The
material employed is a richly coloured red sand
stone. The gateway is of fine proportions, with
beautiful ornamentation, especially on the inside.
Within the fort is the fine mosque known as the
Muti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, erected by Shah
Jehan, and rightly named from the pure white
marble of which it is built. In the adjacent
palace, though it has been much injured, the
magnificent marble pavilions overlooking the river
still remain in perfect preservation.
The tomb of Akbar, at Secundra, receives con
siderable notice in Fergusson' s admirable work on
the architecture of the East. The main building
is surrounded by a large garden, the entrance to
which is through a grand gateway. To eyes that
have been feasting on the Taj and the fort at Agra,
the main building at Secundra is comparatively
uninteresting. We moved from Agra to Jeypore in the night
of January 28-29. During our day at Jeypore we
were the guests of the Eesident, Colonel Peacock.
His house is quite charming, and the hospitality
offered to the members of the Opium Commission
was most kind. The afternoon was spent in
taking evidence. We sat in a large and graceful
building, recently erected in the native style from

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 239
the design of Colonel S. S. Jacob, who, beyond
his wide repute as an architect, is even more
justly esteemed as engineer of the irrigation works
which have converted whole tracts of desert into
fruitful fields.
The evidence given by the prime minister at Evidence
Jeypore was the feature of the afternoon. The Minister of
minister, who spoke English with extraordinary Jeyp°re
fluency, came here originally as the head of the
College. From a pedagogue he has become an
administrator of no mean ability. Under his care
the Maharajas, under whom he carries on the
government, have become men of large wealth.
The present ruler is said to have a hoard in cash
amounting to some millions sterling. The native
States have a certain advantage in being free from
the heavy demands made on British territories for
the remittance of local revenues, for the mainte
nance of the army, and the expenses of the central
Government at Calcutta.
We arrived at Ajmere on the morning of Arrive at
January 30. The arrangements provided for a ]mere
stay of six and a half days, which were to be de
voted to taking evidence from representatives of
the numerous small native States in Eajputana.
In this district the consumption of opium is con
siderable, and the poppy cultivation for export
through Bombay to China is a valuable local re
source. For obvious reasons the native States
would not welcome a policy of prohibition.
At Ajmere we were in a small oasis of British

240

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Ajmere

The
Ardhai- din-ka-
Jompra

Arrive at
Indore

Sittings of
the Com-

territory attached to the Bombay Presidency. It
is a pleasant place surrounded by hills, affording a
great relief from the level monotony of the plains
of Bengal and the Punjab. The public gardens
are extensive. Our hall of audience was on the
shores of the lake. The room where we held our
sittings opened on to a terrace, on which stand
two lovely white marble pavilions, dating from the
period of the Moguls. The ruined mosque at
Ajmere, known as the Ardhai-din-ka-Jompra, is a
building of the greatest beauty and interest. It
dates from 1200 A.D., and is a singular combination
of Hindu and Mohammedan art. A Jain temple
was appropriated by the Mohammedans and faced
with a screen, which is one of the finest examples
of the Indian Saracenic architecture.
We arrived at Indore at an early hour on Feb
ruary 6, and after breakfast drove to our encamp
ment, pitched on an open space in front of the
British Eesidency.
Indore is the capital of the Maharaja Holkar.
The population of the State is nearly 7,000,000 ;
the city, which is a place of considerable trade in
the exportation of wheat and opium, has a popula
tion of 100,000.
The sittings of our Commission were held on
the first day at the Eesidency, and on the follow
ing day in the hall of the College. The attendance
was large, and the witnesses were more than ordi
narily interesting. Colonel Eobertson, represent
ing the Civil Service, was an able exponent of the

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 241
objections to a policy of prohibition. Holkar's
prime minister, Eao Bahardar, a native gentleman,
formerly holding a legal appointment under the
Government of Bombay, exhibited an extraordi
nary command of English and no mean knowledge
of the arts of statesmanship. From other inde
pendent States we had numerous witnesses, many
of whom were curious survivals from an age and
an order of things now rapidly passing away.
The city of Indore possesses some charming indore
gardens, extending along the banks of a small
river, the Sirsuti, which has been formed into a
chain of artificial lakes. We paid a visit to Holkar,
and received a return visit in our tent. The
Maharaja speaks English fluently, and shows a
considerable knowledge of affairs.
From Indore to Bombay the journey by rail By rail to
occupies twenty-four hours. The crossing of the om ay
Nerbudda, and the rapid descent of 1,200 feet from
Mhow to Choral, are full of interest. Indian rail
way carriages have at least the merit of being airy,
and the arrangements for refreshments are gene
rally sufficient.
We arrived at Bombayat sunrise on February9. Arrive at
The Victoria Eailway Terminus is the finest build- Bombay
ing of the city, and is not surpassed by anything
of the kind in London. The broad streets and
lofty, well-built houses would have been perfectly
in keeping in Paris. It was pleasant to find our
selves once again in the perfect quiet of the ' Sun
beam,' which had reached Bombay in excellent
VOL. II. R

242

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Mobilisa tion and
manoeuvres of
the local
naval
forces

Public
buildingsof Bombay

order. After spending three days on board we
took up our quarters under the hospitable roof of
the Governor, with whom we remained nearly a
week. Our stay at Bombay, was well timed for seeing
a local effort in naval mobilisation. The two
torpedo gunboats and seven torpedo boats stationed
here for the defence of the harbour were mobilised
at twelve hours' notice, and proceeded to sea for
a week's cruise, manned partly by British blue
jackets and partly by lascars of the Indian Marine.
On the return of the torpedo flotilla, two days
were given to an attack on Bombay from the sea.
The attacking force was represented by some
cruisers of Admiral Kennedy's squadron. The
resources of the defenders included the two turret-
vessels ' Cerberus ' and ' Magdala,' and the torpedo-
boats. The manoeuvres afforded an opportunity
for some smart evolutionary work by the torpedo
flotilla. It was satisfactory to see the turret-ships
under way, and the forces of the Eoyal Navy and
Indian Marine brought together.
I will not attempt a description in detail of
things worth seeing in Bombay. The public
buildings on the esplanade facing the sea form
collectively a range of edifices symmetrical in
design, and in point of dimensions and architec
tural merit not easily matched in any city in the
world. The Law Courts, the Secretariat, and the
University are nobly housed in these beautiful
structures. The style is an Orientalised Gothic.

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 243
The designs for the University buildings, includ
ing a grand Gothic library and a clock-tower 260
feet high, are by Sir Gilbert Scott. The Secre
tariat, a building nearly 450 feet long, is from
designs by Colonel Wilkins, E.E. The Law
Courts were designed and built by General Fuller,
E.E. The esplanade is adorned with fine statues
— of the Queen, by Noble, and of the Prince of
Wales, in bronze, by Boehm. Her Majesty is
seated on a throne, under a Gothic canopy of
exquisite design.
The Sailors' Home is a handsome building, The
designed by Mr. Stevens, A.C.E. The front has Home
a length of 270 feet ; the interior affords airy
accommodation. Every sailors' home is lacking
in the things which make a real home. The life
is that of a barrack, without privacy, without
womanly ministrations, and without the small
comforts which count for so much, and which it
is so impossible for superintendents and commit
tees of management to provide. At the time of
our visit the Home was full of seamen of the
Eoyal Navy, who have been serving in the
' Marathon ' or in a gunboat, and who were to be
relieved by new crews sent out in the ' Tyne.'
The Town Hall, one of the chief ornaments of The Town
Bombay, is on a large scale, 260 feet long by a
100 feet deep. The architecture is Doric. The
massive pillars of the colonnade forming the front
of the building were sent out from England. The
assembly-room, 100 feet square, contains a fine

244 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94
organ, the gift of Sir Albert Sassoon. An adja
cent suite of rooms contains the large and well-
selected library of the Asiatic Society. The vesti
bule connecting the library with the great hall is
adorned with statues of Lord Elphinstone, Sir J.
Malcolm, and Sir Charles Forbes, all by Chantrey
and in his best manner.
The dock- The dockyard of Bombay dates from 1673.
yard It is now in the hands of the Government of India.
Fitted with a complete equipment of machinery,
and with a staff of English foremen, the resources
for the repair and maintenance of the navy are
the most complete in the East, and, of all our
stations abroad, are only exceeded by those of the
dockyard at Malta. Bombay may be regarded as
the head-quarters of the Indian Marine. All the
local transport duties of India are performed by
the ships of this highly efficient service. It would
be a great economy to the Indian Government if
the troopships were manned with native crews,
under European officers, and kept in repair at
Bombay. The running expenses would be con
siderably reduced, while the Admiralty would
thus have a body of officers and men placed
at their disposal whose services are greatly
needed.
The The harbour of Bombay, the source of its
prosperity, is one of the most commodious in the
world. It has a length of twelve to fourteen
miles in a north and south direction, with an
average width of from four to six miles. An enor-

harbour

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 245
mous trade is carried on, over-sea by steamers, and
coastwise in native dhows. The fortifications and
floating defences of the port have been greatly
strengthened of late years. A graving-dock for want of a
ships of deep draught is still required to make the ;30^ v"
port in all respects a station such as England ought
to possess in these seas. It has been computed that
Bombay has a seafaring population of 230,000.
It is also the Manchester of India. The cotton- Cotton-
spinning industry has been wonderfully developed industry of
of late years. It gives employment to 8,000 hands. Bombay
The tall chimneys of the mills can be traced along
the shore for a distance of many miles. The
British troops forming the garrison have their
quarters on the narrow spit, projecting two miles
to seaward, forming the Kolaba Point. The quar
ters for the men and bungalows for the officers
would be delightful in a temperate climate. Here
is the beautiful Kolaba Church, filled with stained
windows, to the memory of many gallant men who
have died in India in the service of their country.
At Bombay the work of the Opium Commis- Compie-
sion in India was brought to a close. We spent 0I opium
several days in taking evidence, and finally devoted ^°nmis"
some days to private conference, followed by a
meeting at which an opportunity was afforded,
both to the native members of the Commission
and to the representatives of the Anti-Opium
Association, for putting us in possession of their
views. The members of the Civil Service who
have been attached to the Commission have been

246

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

LeaveBombay
in the '
' Sunbeam :

Arrive at
Aden and
transfer to
' Hima
laya'

Arrive at
Malta.Discus sions on
navalmatters

never-failing in consideration to us and in devo
tion to their work. From all with whom we have
been brought in contact in India — high and low
—we have received unvarying kindness.
It only remains to bring the ' Sunbeam ' home
to her familiar anchorage in Cowes roads. The
passage from Bombay to Aden was made
when the north-east monsoon was no longer blow
ing with the full force experienced in the cold
season of India. We sailed on Saturday, the 24th
of February, and arrived at Aden on March 7,
having covered 691 miles under sail and 890 miles
under steam. The best run under sail was made the
first day after leaving Bombay, distance 170 miles.
At Aden, in consequence of the receipt of a
distressful telegram, we transferred ourselves to
the P. and 0. steamship ' Himalaya. ' In this
noble vessel we maintained a steady average
speed of 415 knots a day. From Brindisi,
anxieties being relieved by the reassuring news
which we found awaiting us, I continued in the
' Himalaya ' to Malta, to spend a few days at the
headquarters of our naval force in the Mediter
ranean, pending the arrival of the ' Sunbeam.'
Many deeply interesting discussions were held
at Malta on the subjects with which we have to
deal in the preparation of the ' Naval Annual.'
The relative value of monster, medium, and small
ships for the line-of-battle, the best types of
cruisers, dockyard administration, the manning
problem, and the maritime defence of the British

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 247
Empire and its principal trade routes, offered
themes of inexhaustible interest. The present
Mediterranean fleet shows a striking development
of naval force since 1862, when the present writer
first cruised in the Mediterranean. In types of
ships we have changed from the wooden three-
decker to the armoured and mastless 'Eamillies.'
In numbers we have expanded to a force of thirty-
one pendants, of which ten are flying on armoured
battle-ships of the first class.
On the 24th of March, two days after her arrival Leave
from Bombay, the ' Sunbeam ' sailed from Malta, < sunbeam '
homeward bound. Favoured with fresh easterly
winds, from Cape Bon to Cape de Gata, we
reached Gibraltar on the 31st of March. The
distance from Malta was 662 miles under sail
and 376 miles under steam.
Gibraltar, so long the subject of abortive dis- Gibraltar.
cussions, both in and out of Parliament, is at last to its '^vai

resources

to be taken in hand and equipped with all the
resources necessary for a position of such import
ance. The anchorage is to be protected by two
long moles from torpedo attack. A graving-dock
is to be constructed. The facilities for coaling
are to be adapted to the requirements of a large
fleet in time of war. The fortifications and their
armament do not at present call for the expendi
ture of serious sums.
Sailing from Gibraltar on March 31, we made Leave
good progress until we arrived off Cape St. Mary. Anortheriy
Here we encountered the first gale which we had gale

248

A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94

Put into
Lisbon

Proceed and arrive
in Cowes
Roads

experienced since leaving England. It was from
the N.N.E. and therefore off shore ; yet it blew
with such force that it was necessary to call all
hands and take in close reefs. In a few hours
the wind abated, and we proceeded under steam
and sail, working to windward, close under the
land. At 7 a.m. on April 2 we rounded St. Vincent.
At 2 a.m. on April 3 a very heavy sea began to
make from the north-west. At noon decided to
put into Lisbon. At 4 p.m. entered the Tagus. A
huge swell was rolling in upon the bar. The
next day, at 3 p.m., we once more put to sea, and
after a fine passage anchored in Cowes Eoads at
7 p.m. on Sunday, April 8. I conclude with the
following statistics, compiled from the log-book : —

Distances

Sail

Steam

Sail and
Steam

Towed

England to Calcutta .
Calcutta to Bombay .
Bombay to Aden .
Aden to Malta
Malta to Cowes

Miles
3,106 721430 893

Miles
4,257 890
1,9391,116

Miles 325
400

Miles 50
2,152

5,150

8,902

725

2,202

Summary

istances

Sail .

. 5,150

Steam

. 8,902

Sail and steam
725
Towed
. 2,202
16,979 miles
The quantity of coal consumed has been three
hundred tons.
APPENDIX

SUMMARY OF VOYAGES COMPILED FROM
LORD BRASSEY S LOG BOOKS

Distances Sailed

Year

Knots

Year

Knots

Year

Knots

Year

Knots

1854

150

1864

1,000

1874

12,747

1884

3,087

1855

250

1865

2,626

1875

4,370

1885

6,344

1856

2,000

1866

4,400

18761

37,000

1886) 18871

36,466

1857

1,500

1867

3,000

1877)

1858

2,500

1868

1,000

1878

9,038

1888

1,175

1859

2,300

1869

1,900

1879

5,627

1889

8,785

1860

1,000

1870

1,400

1880

3,415

1890

8,287

1861

800

1871

5.234

1881

5,435

1891

1,183

1862

3,200

1872

9,152

1882

3,345

1892

11,992

1863

900

1873

2,079

1883

13,545

1893-4

19,804

Total, 1854 to 1894, 237,986 knots.

B
Voyages
12 Voyages to the Mediterranean. Furthest points, Constanti
nople, 1874 and 1878 ; Cyprus, 1878 ; Egypt, 1882.
3 Circumnavigations of Great Britain.
1 Circumnavigation of Great Britain and the Shetlands, 1881.
2 Circumnavigations of Ireland.
3 Cruises with the. fleets during manoeuvres, 1885, 1888, 1889.

250

APPENDIX

3 Voyages to Norway, 1856, 1874, and 1885 (with Mr. Glad
stone).
2 Voyages to Holland, 1858, 1863.
1 Voyage round the World, 1876-77.
1 Voyage to India, Straits Settlements, Australia, Cape of Good
Hope, 1886-87.
1 Voyage to the West Indies, 1883.
1 Voyage to the West Indies and the United States, 1892.
1 Voyage to Canada and United States, 1872.
1 Voyage to the Baltic, 1860.
1 Cruise of Lord Tennyson, 1889.
1 Voyage to Calcutta and.Bombay, 1893-94.

Year

Yachts

Tonnage

1654

Spray of the Ocean

8

1856-58 |

Cymba

50

1859-60

Albatross

118

1863-71

Meteor

164

1871 -72

Muriel

60

1872

Eothen

340

1874-91

Sunbeam

532

1882-83

Norman

40

1891

Lorna

90

1892

Zarita

65

1894

Dragon

20

Year

18551863 1873

Yachts Hired

Zillah
Eulalie
Livonia

Tonnage

20 18
240

INDEX

Aalesund, i. 50
Abdallah, Moslem chief, i. 7
Abd-el-Kader, Arab chieftain, and
the French invasion of Algeria,
i. 15-17
Aberdeen, the Earl and Countess
of, at Randy, i. 298
Abigail, Hon. F., at Hawkesbury
River Picnic, ii. 79
Abkar's tomb, at Secundra, ii. 237,
238
Abu Ail, i. 256
Adam's Bridge, Ceylon, projected
railway across, i. 300
Adam's Peak, Buddhist tradition
concerning, i. 296
Adelaide, ii. 1 ; site and description
of the city, 4, 31 ; horse-racing
at, 5 ; botanical gardens, 5 ;
zeal of its Press, 5 ; Jubilee
Exhibition and other public
buildings, 12, 13, 17, 20, 77;
Royal Geographical Society and
Chamber of Commerce, 13-16,
20-28 ; theatrical performance,
18 ; divine service, 18 ; educa
tion at, 31, 32 ; cottages, 32 ;
railway communication with
Melbourne, 41

Adelaide, Port, ii. 3 ; visit to, 17 ;
harbour and docks, 17 ; corn
mill at, 17, 18 ; sailors' home, 18
Aden, voyages to and calls at, i. 61,
64, 257, ii. 221, 222, 246 ; har
bour, i. 257 ; strategical import
ance, 258
'Adventure,' its surveys, i. 148
Affridis force at Kyber, i. 264
Afghan War, its moral effect on
India, i. 265
Afghanistan, trade and other rela
tions with British India, i. 264,
266 ; Sir Devas Sing's views
regarding British policy in, 273
Agha ( = native Arab chief), i. 26
Agnew, Vans, tomb of, at Mooltan,
i. 262
Agra, visit to, i. 259; the Taj
Mahal and fort, 276, ii.237, 238 ;
British troops at, i. 276 ; its
prison, 277 ; mosque, ii. 238
Ajmere, Opium Commissioners at,
ii. 239; situation of the town,
239, 240 ; ruined mosque and
Jain temple, 240
' Alabama ' claims, i. 247
Albany (=King George's Sound),
as a port, i. 335 ; communica-

252

INDEX

tions, 335, 336 ; description of
the town, 336 ; excursion from,
to a forest of eucalyptus, 336-
339 ; departure from, ii. 1
Albany Islands, ii. 139, 140
Albany Pass, ii. 139
Albany, Port, ii. 139, 140
Albatross in flight, i. 332
' Albatross,' German gun-vessel, at
Balmain, ii. 84
Alexandria, i. 62, 64
Algeria, a trip to, in 1862, i. 1 ;
reasons for selecting Algeria
as a subject, 2, 3 ; geography,
3 ; its mountains, 4 ; climate,
4 ; fertility of soil of the
northern region : future as a
corn-producing country, 4-6 ;
summary of its yields through
out the year, 5 ; the south an
arid waste, 5 ; its rivers and
springs, 5 ; early history, 6 ;
Moslem invasion of, 6 ; resisted
by Moors, 7 ; its capital the
' kingdom ' of pirates, 7, 8 ; atro
cities on Christians by Alge-
rine soldiers, 8, 9 ; consequent
bombardment of Algiers by the
British and Dutch fleets, 9-14 ;
invasion and conquest of the
country by the French, 14-17 ;
journey from Marseilles, 17 ;
arrival at Algiers and descrip
tion thereof, 17-23 ; trip into
interior : to the cedar forests of
Teniet, 23 ; agricultural resour
ces of this tract of the country,
24 ; European skill and capital
required for its development, 24,
25 ; industries of the colonists,
25 ; an Arab village, 25 ; native

police, 25 ; difficulties and dis
comfort of travelling, 26 ; ac
ceptable hospitality, 27 ; the
forest of Teniet-el-Had, 27 ; re
turn to Algiers, 28 ; passage to
Storah, and journey to Biskra,
28-32 ; traffic on the road, 28 ;
method of conveying merchan
dise by camels, 28 ; the gorge of
El-Kantara, 29 ; scenery, Roman
road and vegetation, 29-30 ;
arrival at Biskra, 30-32
Algiers, historical associations, i. 3,
7; bombarded by the British fleet,
3, 9-14 ; blockaded and taken
by the French, 14, 15 ; descrip
tion of the lower town, old city
and native quarters, 17-20 ; its
principal bazaar, 19 ; shops and
their owners, 19, 20 ; streets, 20 ;
habits and handicraft of inhabit
ants, 21 ; coffee-grinding and
cafes, 21 ; population, architec
ture and palaces, 22 ; a call at,
in 1886, 253
Algoa Bay, ii. 155
Alice, Queensland, ii. 122
Alias, Strait of, i. 329, 330
Alleghany Mountains, i. 237
Alma, Port, ii. 122
Almazon, Caliph, destroys Egyp
tian canals, i. 34
Alsace, its trade with Hao, i. 156
Amboise Castle, Abd-el-Kader con
fined there, i. 17
America, effect of the Trades on
its discovery, i. 188. See also
United States and South
America
Amritsar, i. 259 ; its golden tem
ple, 270 ; railway, 277

INDEX

253

Andamans, i. 292
Anderson, Mr., at Jubilee celebra
tion in Melbourne, ii. 36
Anderson, tomb of, at Mooltan,
i. 262
Andes, projected railway across
the, i. 99
Angus, Mr. J. H., his gift to
Adelaide University, ii. 32
Antimony mines of Sarawak, i. 310
Antonio, Port, i. 199, 200, ii. 203
Antrim Inlet, i. 141
Arab village, near Cheleffe, i. 25
Arabi Pasha, the suppression of,
ii. 220
Arabs at Algiers, i. 22 ; their
capacity for work, 41, 42
' Araucania,' in the Trinidad
Channel, i. 147
Arbitration, courts of, in trade
disputes, ii. 22, 23
Archer, Point, ii. 133
Ardhai-din-ka-Jompra (ruined
mosque at Ajmere), ii. 240
Argentine (Central) Land Com
pany, i. 101-105
Argentine Republic, area, popula
tion, climate and progress of
the country, i. 98 ; commerce,
98, 99 ; railways, 99, 100 ; civil
wars, 100 ; introduction of foreign
colonists by the Central Argen
tine Land Company, 100, 101 ;
physical features of the country,
100 ; native industry, 101, 103 ;
Indians, 101 ; land and wheat
cultivation, 101, 102 ; locust
plagues, 102, 103 ; pasturage,
103 ; misfortunes of foreign
colonists, 103, 104; future policy
regarding, 104-105 ; sheep-farm

ing and wool production, 107-
109 ; as a field for British emi
gration, 110 ; Italian emigrants
to, 112, 113 ; distribution of
population, 113 ; State colonies
in, 113, 114; emigration by arti
ficial means discouraged, 114 ;
trip to the southern frontier,
114 ; State expeditions against
marauding Irdians, 115; exten
sion of its southern frontier, 116 ;
agricultural statistics, 117 ; poli
tical tranquillity necessary for
the country's prosperity, 117 ;
insurrection of 1873 suppressed,
118 ; President Avellaneda's
efforts to insure peace, 118
Armstrong guns, boats, machines
and gun-vessels in Australia, ii.
33, 46, 47, 71, 94, 105, 106
Army, British, in India, i. 263, 265,
267, 268, 276, ii. 229, 230, 233
Arrowroot, cultivation of, at St.
Vincent, ii. 192
Ascension, ii. 166
Ashley, Mr. Evelyn, at Gibraltar,
i. 185
Asia Minor, early trade with the
Roman Empire, i. 3
Asiatic Society's Library at Bom
bay, ii. 244
Assab Bay, i. 256, 257
Assam, ii. 228
Assumption, i. 59
Assunguy, the Colony of, i. 83, 84
Atlantic liner, life on an, described,
i. 222-228
Atlantic, wind chart for the, i. 66
Atlas Mountains, i. 4, 5, 17, 22-23,
24, 30
Attock, railway bridge at, i. 263

254

INDEX

Aumale, Duke of, and the conquest
of Algeria, i. 15
Aures Mountains, i. 28, 31, 32
Australia, suggested hydrographic
investigations in, i. 67 ; sheep-
farming in, compared with Ar
gentina, 107, 108 ; the gold of,
compared with Patagonian, 128 ;
steam communication with Ta
hiti, 160; future of, in the
Pacific, 163 ; and the Panama
route, 198 ; a thirteen months'
cruise to India and Australia
in 1886-87 : Western Australia,
334-343, ii. 1 ; South Australia,
3-33 ; journalistic zeal in, 5, 6 ;
and the Soudan campaign, 8 ;
its defences, 8-11, 32, 33; the
labour question in, 20-28 ; Ade
laide to Melbourne, 33-67;
interest in India, 57, 115 ; Mel
bourne to Sydney, 67-92 ; Sydney
to Newcastle and Brisbane, 93-
108 ; Rockhampton to Cook
town, 108-133 ; Cooktown to
Thursday Island, 134-143 ; trade
with the Mauritius, 155
Australian Bight, ii. 1
Australian Navy, ii. 118, 119
Avellaneda, President, i. 117,
118
Azores, the, i. 211-213
Azul, i. 58, 114-116

Babae memorial at Delhi, i. 274
Bab-el-Mandeb, Straits of, i. 61
Babo, Baron Von, and vine-culture
in Cape Colony, ii. 160
' Bacchante ' flagship, i. 280
Backstair Passage, ii 34

Bacon, Lord, on travel, i. 1 ; on
diaries, 3
Bacri, an Algerian Jew, i. 14
Bahamas, the particulars concern
ing, i. 200-204, ii. 207
Bahia, i. 81
Bahia Blanca, i. 116
Balaklava, Jamaica, excursion to,
ii. 200, 201
Balboa, Vasco Nuez del, discoverer
of the Pacific, i. 121
Bali, Strait of, i. 330
Ballarat gold diggings, i. 128, ii. 40
Balmain, ii. 84
Bananas, export of, from Jamaica,
ii. 196, 203
Bangkok, proposed railway at, i.
304
Banguey Island tobacco cultiva
tion, i. 316
Barages, Michigan, i. 242, 243
Barbados, ii. 177 ; the natives of,
178, 179 ; Christianity in, 179,
180, 183 ; military expenditure
in, 180 ; railway, 180 ; its sugar
industry, 181, 182 ; trade with
America and the United King
dom, 182 ; college and church
at Barbados, 182, 183 ; first
West Indian settlement, 183 ; as
a military station, 195 ; cultiva
tion of land in, 214 ; govern
ment, 216
Barbarrossa, the Pirate, i. 3, 7, 8
Barcelona, ii. 176
Bass's Straits, ii. 34
Bateman's Bay, ii. 69
Batua, i. 28
' Beach comber,' the, i. 160
Beaconsfield, Lord, on Gibraltar,
252, 253

INDEX

255

1 Beagle,' its surveys, i. 148
Beches-de-mer (dried sea-slugs), ii.
138, 139, 149
Beechey, Captain, Pacific explorer,
i. 67, 154, 155
Beggars on horseback, Argentine,
i. 117
Belcher, Sir Edward, Pacific ex
plorer, i. 67, 155
Belgium, its trade with Argentine
Republic, i. 99, 109
Bellingshausen, Pacific explorer, i.
154
Beloochees, the, characteristics of,
i. 260
Belvedere, Bengal, ii. 224
Benares, ii. 232, 233
Bengal, its native troops, i. 263,
266, ii. 233 ; the Bay of, i. 292 ;
acting governor of, ii. 224 ;
plains of, 228
Bengalis, physique of the, ii. 235
Bergen, its industries and other
particulars concerning, i. 47-49,
55
Bermuda, passage to, i. 205, 208,
209 ; its dockyard and buildings,
210, 280; strategical position,
210 ; fortifications and garrison,
211
Bermudas, general description of,
i. 209 ; the scene of Shake
speare's ' Tempest,' 210
Bertie Bay, i. 144
Bijapur, King of, and Jangira, i.
293
Biskra, journey to, i. 28 ; the town,
30, 31 ; sunset at, 32
' Bismarck,' German war-ship, ii.
85
Bitter Lakes, i. 33, 255

Blaine, Mr., on the Eastern ques
tion, ii. 212
Blake, Sir Henry, Governor of
Jamaica, ii. 195, 196, 198, 202
Blakistone Island, ii. 212
Blanco, President, i. 194
Blidah, i. 23, 24
Blonde shoal, i. 165
Blue Mountains, Jamaica, i. 199,
ii. 195, 217
Blue Mountains, N.S.W., ii. 90, 91
Blyden, Mr., of Sierra Leone, ii.
167
Boa Bahia (= good bay of Bom
bay), i. 278
' Boadicea ' flagship, ii. 228
Boca de Huevos, i. 189, ii. 184
Bodo, i. 50, 51, 54 ; midnight sun
sets at, 51, 54
Boehm, statue by, at Bombay, ii.
243
Boers, and the Government of
Cape Colony, ii. 162, 163
Bolan Pass, and the invasion of
India, i. 261, 265
Bold Head, i. 334
Bombay, and the Suez Canal
route, i. 44, 278 ; visits to, 258,
ii. 241 ; trade, i. 277 ; site, 278 ;
progress and communications,
278, ii. 241 ; harbour, i. 278, ii.
244 ; public buildings and
statues, i. 279, ii. 241-243 ;
dockyard, i. 279, 299, ii. 244 ;
want of a graving dock, i. 280,
281, 299, ii. 245; its lifting
dock, i. 280 ; military and naval
forces, 281, ii. 242, 244, 245;
defences of, i. 281 ; its cotton
factories, 283-290, ii. 245;
sailors' home, 243 ; seafaring

256

INDEX

population, 245 ; Opium Com
missioners at, 245
Bombay and Burmah Trading Co.,
i. 302 ; use of elephants by, 306
Bon, Cape, i. 184, ii. 247
Bona, coral industry, i. 9, 19, 20 ;
occupied by the French, 15
Bonin Islands, i. 177
Bonnecho, the discoverer, i. 154
Borda, Cape, ii. 2, 3
Borel, M., his share in construct
ing the Suez Canal, i. 41
Borja Bay, i. 133, 146
Borneo. See North Borneo
Bosanquet, Captain, of H.M.S.
' Opal,' ii. 92
Botany Bay, ii. 142
Bougainville (explorer) in the
Pacific, i. 154
Boughton Island, ii. 97
Boungo Channel, i. 60
Bourmont, General de, French
commander in Algeria (1830), i.
15
Bow Island, i. 59
Bowen, ii. 125 ; future of, 126
Brand, President, ii. 162
Brander, Mr., of Tahiti, i. 162
Brassey, Lord, address to ' Sun
beam ' crew, i. 249 ; interviewed
in Australia, ii. 6-11, 114-122 ;
speeches by, in Australia, 13-16,
20-28, 37-40, 52-60 ; on sailors'
rests, 60, 61 ; presentation and
picnic to, in Sydney, 77-83 ;
summary of his voyages and
travels, 249, 250
Brassey, Mrs. (afterwards Lady
Annie), views Clarke Island
from the topsail yard, i. 153 ; at
Hao, 155 ; interest in the St.

John Ambulance Association, ii.
61, 88-90
Brassey, the late Mr. Thomas,
works and appreciation of, i.
277, ii. 80-82, 253
Brassey, Cape, i. 136
Bray, Mr., at Adelaide, ii. 17
Brazil, its trade with Bergen, i. 47 ;
visit to (1876), 78 ; Government,
80 ; ruler, 80 ; chances of a
republic, 81 ; personal influence
of the Emperor, 81, 82 ; papal
edict against freemasons, 82 ;
Emperor's summer palace at
Petropolis, 83, 85 ; German
colonists in, 85 ; unsuitable field
for British emigrants, 86, 87 ;
climate, 86, 94 ; import duties,
87 ; deficiencies of the people
as a- race, 87 ; intolerance of
matrimonial laws, 88 ; cultiva
tion of waste land, 88 ; agricul
tural products, 88 ; coffee plan
tations and slave labour, 88-93 ;
free versus slave labour, 93 ; ex
tension of the upper Parana
River to, 97 ; emigration by arti
ficial means discouraged,, 114
Breaksea Island, ii. 1
Breaksea Spit, ii. 107, 142
Bridgetown, Barbados, ii. 177-179
Brindisi, ii. 246
Brisbane, ii. 97-99 ; the Press and
Federation, 99 ; situation of the
city, 99 ; population and suburbs,
100 ; the river and botanic gar
dens, 100 ; Houses of Legisla
ture, 101 ; the great bridge, 101 ;
its naval contingent, 106
Brisbane, Captain, and the Dey of
Algiers, i. 13, 14

INDEX

257

' Brisk,' British cruiser, ii. 228
British African Company, ii. 166
British colonists and emigrants,
Brazil unsuitable for, i. 86 ;
Baron de Rio Bonito's kindness
to, 88 ; to the Argentine Republic
and the United States, 110, 112,
113 ; unfit for physical labour
in the Tropics, ii. 16, 21, 22 ; in
Queensland, 128
British India Company, its trade
with Ceylon, i. 297
Brockbank & Atkins, chronometer
makers, i. 66
Broken Hill, silver at, ii. 31
Bronoe Sound, navigation in, i.
56
Brooke, Rajah, and Sir James,
their work in Sarawak, i. 308-312
Broome, Sir Frederick Napier, on
the Parliament of Western
Australia, i. 341
Brown, Captain, and the Yonnies
expedition, ii. 167
Brown, Commander, R.N., i. 119
Brown, Mr. John Crosby, of
Orange, U.S.A., i. 231, 232
Browning, Robert, on manual
labour, ii. 26
Brownless, Dr., at Jubilee celebra
tion in Melbourne, ii. 36
Brun, Mr., on the shape of
Makassar, i. 328
Brunei, the river, city, and other
particulars concerning, i. 314-
316
Buddhism in Ceylon, i. 296
Buenos Ayres, visit to, i. 58, 64 ;
extension of the Parana River
into, 97 ; horse- and cattle-rear
ing in, 1 06 ; sheep farming and

wool production, 107-109 ; as a
field for emigrants. 111 ; poli
tical influence of Italian emi
grants in, 112, 113 ; density of
population, 113 ; failure of State
colonies, 113, 114 ; richness of
the soil, 116
Bugeaud, Marshal, defeats Abd-el-
Kader, i. 16
Bullock Brothers, Messrs., Ran
goon, i. 301, 302
Burgess, Lieut., at bombardment
of Algiers, i. 10
Burke, quoted, i. 81
Burmah, progress under British
rule, i. 301 ; industries, 301,
305, 306 ; story of its annexa
tion, 302 ; and consequent re
sentment of the Burmese, 303,
304 ; development of the
country : railways, 304 ; ignor
ance of its interior, 305 ; spar-
sity of population and its cause,
306, 307
Bustard Bay, ii. 142
Byrne, Mr. St. Clare, designer of
the ' Sunbeam,' i. 63
Byron, John (explorer), on the
wreck of the ' Wager,' i. 145 ;
at the Paumotu group, 154
Byron, Cape, ii. 97

Cabdl, its trade with Peshawur, i.
264
Cadiz, communication with Ha
vana, ii. 204
Cahima, Queen, and the spread of
Islam, i. 7
Cain, Councillor, at Melbourne, ii.
51

VOL. II.

258

INDEX

Cairo, ii. 219
Calcutta, proposed railway to
Burmah, i. 305 ; voyage to, ii.
219, 222; work of the Opium
Commission at, 223 ; life of
seamen at, 223, 224 ; situation
of the town, 224 ; its park, 224 ;
public buildings and Govern
ment House, i. 279, ii. 225 ;
Christmas Day at, 228 ; New
Year's festivities, 230 ; visit to
sailors' home, 230 ; native wages
in, 232
California, its gold diggings, i. 129
Callaghan, Mr., of the North
Borneo Company, i. 325
Camels, use of, in Algeria, i. 28, 29 ;
in constructing Suez Canal, 37 ;
in India, 262, 264
Cameron, Mr., on the Mount
Morgan Gold Mines, ii. 112
Canada, its trade with Tahiti and
the West Indies, i. 161, ii. 182,
192 ; subsidy of steamers by
Canada to Australia, ii. 9 ; ad
vantages to Canada of union
with Great Britain, 58, 59
Canary Islands, its trade with
Jamaica, ii. 199
Canning Jute Mills (Calcutta), ii.
232
Cape Colony, trade with the Mau
ritius, ii. 155 ; enterprise of the
Government of, 158, 159 ; its old
Dutch towns, 160 ; visit to a
Dutch farm in, 161 ; agriculture
in, 162 ; polities in, 162 ; relations
with the Transvaal, Orange Free
State, and the native tribes,
162-165 ; its railways, 163, 164 ;
its mineral wealth, 165

Cape de Verdes, ii. 169, 176
Cape of Good Hope, i. 44, 65, 69,
ii. 151
Cape Town, view of Table Moun
tain from, ii. 158 ; its new dock,
public buildings and other at
tractions, 159 ; its suburbs, 160
Capricorn, Cape, ii. 107, 142
Caraccas, the, i. 193, 194
Cardwell, ii. 129, 130
Carey, Mr. J. C, at Hawkesbury
River, ii. 79
Caribbean Sea, i. 191
Carlisle Bay, Barbados, ii. 177
Carrington, Lord and Lady, at
Sydney, ii. 76, 85
Carter, Mr. G. D., at Melbourne, ii.
51,52
Carteret (explorer) at the Paumotu
group, i. 154
Carthagena Harbour, i. 184
Castanet, Messrs., of St. Lucia, ii.
194
Castries (St. Lucia), the port of, ii.
193 ; as a coaling-station, 194 ;
physical conditions of, 194
Cauvery, the delta of the, i. 296
Cawnpore, the mutiny at, ii. 234
Cayman Islands, ii. 218
Celebes Sea and islands, i. 325
' Cerberus,' turret- vessel, ii. 242
Ceylon, visit to, i. 292 ; derivation
of the name, 295 ; Buddhism in,
296 ; shape of the island, 296
its rubies, mountains, rivers
climate, and vegetation, 296
coffee and tea planting, 297
spices and other products, 297
pearl fisheries, 297 ; its chief
towns, 297
Challenger Bay, ii. 127

INDEX

259

Chambre, Lieut., of the ' Fant6me,'
i. 176, 177
Chantrey, statues by, in Bombay,
ii. 244
Charles V., Emperor of Spain, and
the Corsairs of Barbary, i. 8
Charters Towers goldfields, ii. 127
Chasm Reach, i. 142
Cheleffe, plain of, i. 23, 25, 26
Chesapeake, River, ii. 207, 208, 212
Chesney, General, his survey of
the Isthmus of Suez, i. 34
Chicago, journey to, i. 236 ; arrival
at, 237 ; position and growth,
238 ; centre of a vast commerce,
238 ; colossal proportions of its
buildings and streets, 239 ; the
city of business, 239 ; trade with
Marquette, 241
Chili, and the navigation of the
Straits of Magellan, i. 125, 130 ;
aspirations of, concerning Sandy
Point, 127-130
Chilians, trade with marauding
Indians, i. 116
China, lighthouse on the coast of,
i. 66 ; trade with Tahiti, India,
and Brunei, 160, 287, 314, 315,
ii. 239 ; and the Panama Canal
route, i. 198 ; proposed railway
communication with India, 304,
305 ; trade routes to, ii. 136, 144
China seas, wind chart for the, i. 66
Chinese commissioners at Sydney,
ii. 90
Chinese in Burmah, North Borneo,
Australia, and West Indies, i.
305, 311, 314, 319, 323, 327, ii.
21, 22, 30, 74, 150, 153, 185, 204
Chinese junks, i. 181
Chippewaw Indians at L ' Anse, i.243

Chloral, ii. 241
Chlorination process for gold, ii.
110-112
Cbristiansund, i. 50
Church Missionary Society, its
work at Sierra Leone, ii. 167
Churchill, Lord Randolph, his
strictures on naval administra
tion considered, ii. 119
Cingalese pearl divers, i. 297
Claremont Island, its lightship, ii.
137
Clarke, Hon. W., at Hawkesbury
River, ii. 79
Clarke Island, i. 152, 153, ii. 92
Cleveland (U.S.A.), its trade with
Marquette, i. 241 ; iron industry
at, 244
Coal miners, wages and hours of,
in N.S.W., ii. 94
Cochin China, navigation of its
rivers, 307
Cockatoo Island, ii. 84 ; dockyard
and graving docks at, 85
Cocoa-nut Island, 165
Codrington College, Barbados, ii.
182, 183
Coffee-grinding at Algiers, i. 21
Collins, Mr. (U.S. Consul), ii. 83
Colombo, visits to, and other par
ticulars concerning, i. 61, 64,
291, 297, 298, ii. 221, 222
Colon, steamship communication
with Havana, ii. 204
Colonial Sugar Company (Queens
land), ii. 127
Columbus, effect of the Trades on
his discoveries, i. 188 ; and the
Dragon's Mouths, 189, ii. 184,
and the Bahamas, i. 204
Comorin, Cape, i. 290, 291

s 2

260

INDEX

Conciliation, courts of, in trade
disputes, ii. 23, 24
Conolly, Mr. T. J., at Jubilee cele
bration in Melbourne, ii. 36
Constantia, vine-culture at, ii. 160
Constantine, i. 16, 2 , 28
Constantinople, Mr. Blaine on
England's influence at, ii. 212
Conway, Cape, ii. 124
Coode, Sir John, and Coode Island
as a coaling-station, ii. 144 ; his
breakwater at Table Bay, 158
Cook, Captain, the explorer, i. 154,
156, 159, ii. 14,69, 134, 141-143
Cook, Colonel, and the Sikhs, 26
Cook, Mount, ii. 134, 135
Cook's Pigeon House, ii. 69
Cooktown, voyage to, ii. 133 ; its
situation and other particulars
concerning, ii. 134, 135
Coolie labour in Burmah, Austra
lia, and the West Indies, i. 302,
ii. 21, 22, 185, 197
Corcovado Peak, i. 79, 94, 95
Cordillero range, i. 129, 130
Cordova, the explorer, i. 122, 133
Cordova, excursion to, and other
particulars concerning, i. 58, 99,
100, 105, 133
Coromandel coast, deltas of, i. 296
' Corsair,' steamship, i. 232
Corsairs of Barbary, i. 3, 7, 8
Cowie, Messrs., and the Muara coal
mines, i. 314
Cowper, Consul, on the Argentine
Republic, i. 98, 110, 117
Creole population of the Mauritius,
ii. 153
Crete, Island of, i. 62
Crocker, Mr., governor of North
Borneo, i. 307, 323, 325

Croydon, North Queensland, gold
in, ii. 113
Cuba, voyages to, i. 200, ii. 203 ;
coral formations off the coast, i.
203 ; Government of, ii. 206
Cumberland Islands, Australia, ii.
123
Cureton's Mooltani Horse, i. 266

' Daoia,' cable-laying ship, i. 137
Dacoity, revival of, in Burmah, i.
303
Daintree, valley of the, ii. 133
Dale, Mr. David, and the labour
question, ii. 23
Dalgety, Messrs., of Newcastle
(N.S.W.), ii. 95
Dalhousie, Lord, his trip in the
' Sunbeam,' i. 251
Dalley, Right Hon. W. B., in
N.S.W., ii. 79, 80, 85
Dampier's Collection of Voyages, i.
131
Dana, Mr., on the crater of Kilauea,
i. 168 ; and coral reefs, 204
Danger Point, ii. 98, 142
'Dangerous,' early name for
Paumotu group, 154
Darjeeling, ii. 224, 225 ; other
particulars concerning, 226-228
Darley, Sir Frederick and Lady,
in N.S.W., ii. 91
Darling Downs, Queensland, ii.
101
Darling Harbour and Point,
Sydney, ii. 71, 76
Darnley Island, the administration
of, and other particulars con
cerning, ii. 147-149
Darvel Bay, its harbour and pro-

INDEX

261

ducts, i. 316, 317, 321 ; Chinese
settlement at, 321
Darwin, Professor, on the height
of snow line, glaciers, and coral
reefs, i. 147, 148, 204
Darwin, Port, ii. 149-151, 157
Davenport, Sir Samuel, at Ade
laide, ii. 13, 32
Davies, Mr., British resident at
Kudat, i. 317
Davis, Mr., formerly of Hastings,
at Sydney, ii. 78
Deerstalking near Darvel Bay, i.
325
Dela Rue, Mr. Warren, his evidence
on Meteorology, i. 68
Delgada, Cape, i. 124
Delhi, i. 259, ii. 235 ; its buildings,
i. 274, 275, ii. 236, 237, 238 ; the
Ridge during the Mutiny, i.
275 ; its railway, 277 ; native
troops at, ii. 236
Denham, Admiral Sir Henry, his
hydrographic labours, i. 67
Denison, Port, ii. 125
Desolation, Isle of, i. 134
D'Estary, Count, at Grenada, ii. 189
Diamond Hill, i. 174
Diamonds of South Africa, ii. 156,
165
' Dido,' H.M.S., at Ocho Rios, i.
199
Dillon, General, at Rawul Pindi, i.
266
Direction Hills, i. 124
Direction Islands, ii. 143
Divers, pearl, wages of, ii. 146
' Dolphin,' U.S.N., ii. 209
Donovan, Colonel, his fights
against marauding Indians, i.
115

Donovan, Mr., librarian at Bris
bane, ii. 101, 102
Doria, Spanish Admiral, at Algiers,
i. 8~
Dove, Professor, his meteorological
investigations, i. 68
Downer, Mr., rector of Kingston,
Jamaica, i. 199
Dragon's mouths, i. 189, 191, ii.
184
Drake, Sir Francis, i. 126, 131
Drake's Island, i. 215
Dromedary, Mount, ii. 142
Drontheim, its shipbuilding indus
try and Cathedral, i. 55
Drysander, Mount, ii. 124
Duluth, ii. 276
Duncan, Colonel, his nutmeg
estates, ii. 190
Dungeness, ii. 127
Dunn, Mr., his corn-mills, il. 17,
18
Duperry (explorer) at the Paumotu
Group, i. 154
Dutch fleet, assists at bombard
ment of Algiers, i. 9 ; hydro-
graphic investigations of, 67 ;
conflicts with the Portuguese,
294 ; descendants of the Dutch
at Ceylon, 298, 300; Dutch
administration of Makassar, 327,
328, ii. 15 ; colonists at the Cape,
163, 164
Dyaks, in Sarawak and North
Borneo, i. 311, 320

East, a, run to the, in 1893-1894,
ii. 219-248. See India
Eastern Question, Mr. Blaine on
the, ii. 212

262

INDEX

Ebony, use of, in Ceylon, i. 296
Eclipse Islands, i. 334
Eden, Mr., on Brazilian colonisa
tion, i. 85
Eden Harbour, i. 149
Edgecumbe Bay, Queensland, ii.
125
Egypt, money paid by, towards
construction of Suez Canal, i.
43 ; the Great Pyramid of, ii.
219 ; England's position in,
220
Elder, Sir Thomas, of Adelaide, ii.
32
Elephant labour at Moulmein, i.
305, 306
Elizabeth Island, bird life on, i.
126
Elizabeth, Port, ii. 156 ; prosperity
of the town, 156 ; its trade, 156,
157
El-Kantara, the gorge of, i. 29 ;
scenery, 29 ; Roman road, 29 ;
and vegetation, 30
Ellery, Major, of the Melbourne
Observatory, ii. 65
EJlery, Mr. R. L. J., at Jubilee
celebration in Melbourne, ii.
36
Ellis, Dr., and the St. John
Ambulance Association Meeting
(Sydney), ii. 86
Ellis, Rev. W., on the discovery of
the Pacific, i. 121
Elphinstone, Lord, statue at
Bombay, ii. 244
Emerson, Mr., on confidence in
sailors, i. 208
Emigrants, their nationality and
characteristics, i. 224, 225. See
also under British, German, &c.

Emma, Queen, of the Sandwich
Islands, i. 175
Emu Plains, ii. 90, 91
' Endeavour,' Captain Cook's ship,
ii. 141, 143
Endeavour River, ii. 134, 143
Endeavour Strait, ii. 143
England. See Great Britain
English Narrows, dangers of, i.
143, 144, 147
English Reach, i. 133
Englishmen as Seamen, i. 70-73,
333. See also Seamen
Ensenada, i. 58, 119
Entre Rios, i. 82
Esperanza, Island of, i. 141
Estancia de los Ingleses (Peak of
Teneriffe), i. 75
' Etruria ' liner, i. 223, 224
Eucalyptus forests (Western Aus
tralia), i. 336-339
Europe, a trip to the North of, in
1874, i. 46-56. See Norway.
Europe Inlet, i. 141
European cantonments in India, i.
262
Evans, Captain, his aids to navi
gation, i. 67
Everest, Mount, ii. 228
Exmouth, Lord, at bombardment
of Algiers, i. 3, 8-14
Eyre's Sound, glaciers in, i. 148

Fairfax, Rear-Admiral, ii. 92
Fairway Islands, i. 134
False Sugar-loaf hill (Rio), i. 79
Famine, Port, first Spanish Settle
ment at, i. 131, 132
Famine Reach, i. 131
'Eant6me,' H.M.S., i. 173

INDEX

263

Farm Cove (Sydney), ii. 71, 72
Fatsizio, Island of, i. 180
Faval, ii. 169, 170; unseaworthy
craft destroyed at, 171 ; effect of
the Suez Canal on the trade of
Faval, 171 ; whaling at, 172 ;
statistics concerning, 172 ; view
of, from Pico, 212
Federation. See Imperial Federa
tion
Fergusson cited, ii. 238
Findlay, Mr., on the Paumotu
group, i. 153
Finisterre, Cape, experiences off, i.
58, 63
Finmark, its fishing industry, i. 47
Fitzgerald, Captain, on the Navy,
ii. 119
Fitzgerald, Mr. Nicholas, at Im
perial Federation League dinner,
Melbourne, ii. 51
Fitzroy, Admiral, explorer, his
surveys, i. 59, 122, 154
Fitzroy River, ii. 107, 108, 122,
123
Flagstaff Hill (Newcastle, N.S.W.),
its fort, ii. 94
Flattery, Cape, ii. 143
Fleming, Mr., acting governor of
the Mauritius, ii. 153
Flinders, Captain, the hyclrogra-
pher, ii. 137
Flinders Passage, ii. 146, 149
Flower, Professor, ii. 202
Fly river, New Guinea, Mission
work on the, ii. 148
Forbes, Professor, on glaciers, i.
148, 149
Forbes, Sir Charles, statue of at
Bombay, ii. 244
Formosa Channel, i. 60

Forster, Mr. W. E., on Imperial
Federation, ii. 53
France, position of her troops in
Algeria, i. 4 ; history of her
conquest there, 14-17 ; esta
blish native police there, 26 ;
trade with the Argentine Re
public, 99, 109 ; her protectorate
over Tahiti, 154, 163, 164 ; her
naval strength, ii. 120 ; her
sugar bounties and its effect on
the Mauritius, 155 ; former con
nection with Trinidad, 185 ;
French planters in the West
Indies, 217 ; and the British
occupation of Egypt, 220
Francki, Mr. (manager of Mort &
Co.'s engineering works), ii. 84
Frankland Islands, ii. 132
Freemasonry in Brazil, Papal
edict against, i. 82
Freetown, situation of, ii. 166
Free Trade and Protection, Lord
Brassey on, ii. 24-26
French Messageries Maritimes
(Steamship Company), i. 17,
297, ii. 72
Frio, Cape, i. 78, 79
Froude, Mr., on the West Indies,
ii. 191, 213
Froward, Cape, i. 132, 133
Fuegians, precautions against, in
the Straits of Magellan, i. 135
Fuller, General, designs Law
Courts at Bombay, ii. 243
Fullerton, Captain, of the Hobson's
Bay naval establishment, ii. 46
Funchal, beauty of, i. 73, 74
' Galatea ' yacht, defeat of, in
1886, i. 232-236

264

INDEX

Galita, suggested lighthouse for,
i. 254
Galle, Ceylon, i. 61, 64, 297
Ganges, the delta of the, ii. 223,
226
Gata, Cape de, i. 185, ii. 247
Gavia Mountain, i. 79, 95
Gaya, its harbour, i. 316
' Gayundah ' gun-vessel, ii. 105,
106
Geelong, ii. 40 ; the town described,
41
' General Gordon,' river boat, ii. 79
Genoese, at Gibraltar, i. 252
George, Cape, ii. 142
George, Henry, and the Knights of
Labour, i. 231 ; fallacy of his
theories, ii. 74, 75
Georgian Islands, trade with
Tahiti, i. 159
' Germanic ' liner, i. 222, 223 ; Ufe
on board, 224 ; emigrants, 224,
225 ; crew, 225-228
Germans, as colonists, emigrants,
and navigators, i. 85, 86, 112,
113, 161, 225, 317, ii. 102-105,
116
Germany, trade with the Argen
tine Republic and Tahiti, i. 109,
161 ; type of its cruisers, 191, ii.
75 ; Lord Brassey on the unity
of, ii. 56, 114 ; sugar bounty
system, 155
Geysers of St. Michael, i. 213
Ghauts, the, i. 293
Ghoorkas, the, i. 268, ii. 229
Gibbon on the Moslem irruption,
i. 6
Gibb's Hill, Bermuda, i. 209
Gibraltar, coaling-station, i. 44 ;
visits to and calls at, 62, 64,

185, 252, ii. 176, 219; the
Straits of, i. 63, 186 ; its dock
yard, i. 185 ; impressions of the
fortress, 186 ; Lord Beacons-
field's description of scenes on
the Rock, 252, 253; want of
dock accommodation, 253 ; Ad
miralty reforms at, ii. 247
Gillies, Mr. Duncan, at Melbourne,
ii. 51
Glaciers in the Straits of Magellan,
i. 148, 149
Glanville, Fort, ii. 33
Glebe Colliery (Newcastle, N.S.W.),
ii. 95
Glenelg, ii. 3, 4, 10, 11, 20 ; battery
for, 33
Gloucester, Cape, ii. 125
Gloucester Island, ii. 125
Goa, Portuguese settlement in
India, i. 293 ; communications
and harbour, 293 ; ancient splen
dour, 294 ; its churches, 294 ;
modern Goa : its salt trade, 295
Gold in Patagonia, North Borneo,
Australia, Cooktown, and South
Africa, i. 128, 130, 317, 321, 322,
ii. 17, 31, 40, 62, 102, 108-113,
127, 134, 163
Gordon, General, a tribute to, i.
216
Gordon, Sir Arthur, at Kandy, i. 298
Goshen, Land of. See Ouady
Toumilat
Goths, the invasion of Algeria by,
i. 6
Goyave Bay, ii. 190
Grand Etary, Grenada, ii. 187
Grant, Admiral, at Plymouth Dock
yard, i. 251
Grappler, Port, 142, 146

INDEX

265

Great Barrier reef of Australia, ii.
123, 134, 135
Great Britain : expedition against
Algiers, i. 9-14 ; opposition to
Suez Canal, 36 ; extensive use of
same, 61 ; surveying service, 65,
66, 122 ; trade with Argentine
Republic, 99, 109; with Hao,
156, and the Panama route, 198 ;
colonial administration, 216,
217 ; relations with the United
States," 247; rule in India, 273,
274 ; importance to, of an effi
cient Indian marine, 282, 283 ;
administration of the Goa salt
trade, 295 ; and the Ceylon pearl
fisheries, 297 ; annexation of
Burmah, 302-304 ; relations
with the Colonies, ii. 6, 16, 54,
82, 83, 99 ; colonial enterprise
contrasted with Holland, 15 ;
labour and free trade questions
in, 22-26 ; trade with Newcastle
(N.S.W.) and San Francisco,
93 ; and Imperial Federation,
114 ; and Cape Colony, 162 ;
military expenditure in Bar
bados, 180 ; her trade with, and
government of, the West Indies,
182, 185, 196, 213-218; and
the Eastern question, 212 ; posi
tion in India considered, 228,
229
Great Isaac's Light, i. 201
Great Pyramid, the, ii. 219, 220
Grefton, Cape, ii. 132
Gregory Range, i. 125
Gregory Shoulder, i. 125
Grenada, ii. 186 ; the Grand Etary,
187 ; cocoa, fruit, and nutmeg
industries, 187-189 ; its old forts,

189 ; departure from, 191 ; land
in, 214
Grenville, Cape, ii. 137, 139
Griffith, Sir Samuel, Premier of
Queensland, ii. 102
Guardafui, Cape, lights for, ii. 221
Guia Narrows, i. 139 ; scenery, 139,
140, 141
Gujerat, its early trade, i. 277
Gumti river, ii. 233
Gun Cay, i. 201
Gurney, Mr., at Goyave Bay, ii.
190
Gwalior, the Maharajah of Put-
tiala's services at, i. 270

Hambueq, its trade with Sierra
Leone, ii. 167.
Hamilton, Lieut., administrator of
Labuan, i. 313
Hao, or Harpe Island, i. 64, 154 ;
description of, 155, 156
Hardman (of Birmingham), glass
window by, in St. Mary's Cathe
dral, Sydney, ii. 73
Hardy, Mr., of Adelaide, ii. 32
' Harrier,' H.M.S., mail yacht, ii.
134, 135
Harrison, Mr. Frederic, and labour
disputes, ii. 23
Hastings, old residents of, at Syd
ney, ii. 77
Hatteras Cove, ii. 207
Havana, ii. 204 ; characteristics
of, 204; harbour and shipping,
204 ; sanitary condition, 205
Havelock, General, and the relief
of Lucknow, ii. 234
Hawaii, i. 59, 64, 165
Hawke, Cape, ii. 97

266

INDEX

Hawkesbury river, excursion and
picnic, ii. 78-83
Hay, Sir James, Governor of Bar
bados, ii. 179
Hay, Sir John, of N.S.W., ii. 79
Hayradin. See Barbarrossa
Hayter, Mr. H. H., Victorian
statistician, ii. 61
Hayti, the negro of, ii. 202
Heath, Captain, of the Queensland
Marine Department, ii. 102, 106,
136
Hely Hutchinson, Sir Walter,
Governor of Grenada, ii. 189,
190, 192
Henry, Cape, ii. 207, 208
Henry, Prince, of Prussia, at Port
of Spain, i. 190
Herbert River, ii. 127, 128
Heusner, Commodore (of the ' Bis
marck '), ii. 85
Hext, Captain, superintendent of
Indian Marine, 280
Hicks, Point, ii. 141
Hildyard, Captain, his adventures,
i. 137, 138 ; on the dangers of
the English Narrows, 143
Hilo, i. 164, 165 ; picturesque ap
pearance of the town, 165 ;
swimming and diving feats at,
170-173
' Himalaya,' P. and O. steamship,
ii. 246
Himalayas, the, i. 263, 265, ii.
226-228
Hinchcliff, Mr., on Lota, i. 150
Hinchinbrook Channel, ii. 127
Hinchinbrook Island, ii. 128,
129
Hindus in Burmah, i. 305
Hobson's Bay, ii. 35 ; its naval es

tablishment, 46-51 ; the natural
harbour of Melbourne, 67
Hoe, Plymouth, i. 215
Hofmeyer, Mr., of the Cape Par
liament, ii. 160, 163
Hog's Island, lifting-dock at, i. 280
Holdfast Bay Yacht Club, ii. 3
Holkar, Maharajah, of Indore, ii.
240, 241
Holland. See Dutch
Hong-Kong, i. 60, 64 ; trade with
North Borneo, 317 ; proposed
extension of communications,
ii. 9
Honolulu, i. 59 ; suggested hydro-
graphic investigation at, 67 ;
description of, 173-176
Hooghly, the, i. 300, ii. 223, 224
Hope, Messrs., locust plague on
their farm, i. 102
Horn, Cape, i. 65, 69
Horn Island, ii. 149
Hornehlen, the precipice of, i. 49
Horta, the roadstead of, ii. 169-
171 ; its breakwater, 172
Howe, Cape, ii. 68
Howick Island, native encampment
in the, ii. 136, 137
Hubli, railway communication
with, i. 293
Hughes, Sir Walter, his gift to
Adelaide University, ii. 32
Huglem, i. 52
Hull, Commander, his aids to
navigation, i. 67, 176
Humayoon Memorial at Delhi, 274
Hummocky Island, ii. 107
Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., missionaries
ii. 147, 148
Hunt, Mr. Lennon, on Assunguy,
i. 83-85

INDEX

267

Hunter, Dr., on the Portuguese
dominion in India, i. 294
Hunter River (N.S.W.), ii. 93
Husband's Inlet, i. 141
Hutchinson, Lieut., in Victoria, ii.
49
Huxley, Professor, and the Marine
Biological Station at Jamaica, ii.
202
Hyderabad, Nizam of, i. 271

Ioebeeq Sound, i. 149
Icebergs, dangers of, i. 223
' Illimani,' ss., courtesy of her cap
tain, 123
Imperial and Colonial Conference,
ii. 117
Imperial Federation in Australia,
ii. 7, 51-60, 99, 114-117, 121
India (a thirteen months' cruise
to India and Australia in 1886-
1887), i. 248 ; down Channel and
call at Plymouth, 251 ; passage
to Gibraltar, Algiers, Port Said,
Suez Canal, and Red Sea, 252-
256 ; to Aden and Bombay, 257,
258 ; journey to Kurrachee and
Shikarpur, 259, 260 ; establish
ment of municipal councils in
India, 261 ; possible invasion
of India considered, 261-265 ;
journey to Lahore, 261 ; Euro
pean cantonments in India, 262 ;
journey to Peshawur, 263 ; the
trade route to Cabul, 264 ; stay
at Rawul Pindi, 266 ; Amritsar
and Puttiala, 270 ; difficulties of
Indian princes, 271 ; British v.
Native rule, 273, 274 ; native
love of display, 274 ; necessity

of British rule, 274 ; visit to
Delhi, 274 ; to Agra, 276 ; prison
administration, 277 ; return to
Bombay, 277 ; cotton-mill in
dustry in, 283-290 ; visit to Jan-
gira, 290 ; to Goa, Ceylon, Co
lombo, Kandy, and Trincomalee,
293-298 ; railway development
in, 300, 305 ; Rangoon, 301 ;
annexation of Burmah, 302 ;
Moulmein, 305 ; value of India
to the Colonies, ii. 7, 57, 115,
116 ; wheat cultivation in, com
pared with South Australia, 30 ;
its trade with the Mauritius,
155 ; Opium Commissioners in
India, 219-248 ; England's posi
tion in, 228, 229 ; effect of the
spread of education among the
natives, 229 ; consequent desire
to share in the Government, 229 ;
necessity for British troops in,
229 ; a Government opium fac
tory, 231 ; wages in India, 231,
232 ; reminiscences of the Mu
tiny, 233, 234 ; Government of
native states, 239 ; opium trade
in the native states, 239-244 ;
railway travelling in, 241 ; local
force at Bombay, 242, 244
India, Portuguese, i. 293-295
Indian army (native), i. 263, 266-
268 ; position of native officers,
269, 273, ii. 229, 233, 236
Indian Marines, i. 279, 280, 282,
283, ii. 242, 244
Indian Mutiny, loyalty of the Sikhs
during the, i. 270 ; the Delhi
Ridge during, 275
Indian Ocean, i. 61 ; wind charts
of, 66, ii. 153

268

INDEX

Indian Reach, i. 142
Indians in the Argentine Republic,
i. 100, 101, 110, 115, 116
Indore, Opium Commissioners at,
ii. 240, 241 ; situation of the
city, 241
Indus, railway bridges over the, i.
260, 261, 263 ; its canals, 262
Inglis. Hon. James, at Hawkesbury
river picnic, ii. 79
Inglis, Mr., harbour-master at
Glenelg, ii. 12
Inland seas of Japan, i. 60-62,
64
Inquisition, the, in Portuguese
India, i. 294
Insurance, maritime, its abuse, ii.
141, 171
Intercolonial railway, ii. 9
Interviewing in Australia, ii. 114
Investigator Strait, ii. 2, 3
' Iphigenie,' French cadet frigate,
ii. 168
Irish colonists in the Argentine
Republic, i. 110
Isly, battle of, i. 16
Ismaiha, headquarters of the Suez
Canal Company, 1. 38, 42 ; coal
ing-station at, 44 ; sunset at,
255 ; call at, in 1893, ii. 219
Italians in the Argentine Republic,
d. 100, 105, 112, 113; at Assab,
256
Italy, the unity of, ii. 56, 114
Ives, Professor, at Adelaide, ii. 20

Jack, Mr., on the Mount Morgan
goldmines, ii. 112
Jackson, Port, description of, ii.
69-71

Jacob, Colonel S. S., his work in
Jeypore, ii. 239
Jacohabad, military force at, i. 260
Jain temple at Ajmere, its archi
tecture, ii. 240
Jamaica, i. 196 ; scenery, 196 ;
statistics, 196 ; negro popula
tion, 196 ; indolence of natives,
197 ; fertility of soil, 197 ; trade,
198 ; its chief towns, 198 ;
another visit to, ii. 195 ; im
proved prosperity of, 196 ; its
products, 196, 203 ; the sugar
industry and the manumission
of the slaves, 196, 197 ; the
planter, 197, 198 ; coffee, fruit,
cacao, and fruit cultivation in,
198, 199 ; absentee ownership
in, 197, 198, 217 ; loyalty and
simplicity of natives, 199, 201,
202 ; religion, 199 ; railway con
struction and wages in, 200, 201 ;
establishment of a marine bio
logical station at, 202 ; land in,
215 ; Government, 216 ; as a
field for British settlers, 217
James's ' Naval History,' quoted,
i. 8
James River, ii. 208
Jamestown, St. Helena, ii. 165
Jamid Musjid, the, at Delhi, i. 274
Jamrud, fort of, visit to, i. 263,
264
Jangira, fort of, i. 292 ; the Nawab
of, 292 ; origin of his family, 292
Japan, visit to, i. 60-62, 181, 182 ;
lighthouses on the coast of, 66 ;
and the Panama Canal route,
198 ; its trade with Bombay,
287 ; visit to a Japanese cor
vette, ii. 18

INDEX

269

Japanese art collection at Mon
treal, ii. 253
Japanese junks, i. 181
Jardine, Mr., his cattle station at
Somerset, ii. 140
Javanese labour in Queensland, ii.
131, 132
Jebel Sukkir, i. 256
Jervois, Sir William, and the de
fence of Australian harbours, ii.
8, 33
Jesuits, their work in Northern
Michigan, i. 243, 244
Jew, an Algerine, described, i. 19, 20
Jews, at Algiers, i. 22 ; at Gibral
tar, 253
Jeypore, Opium Commissioners at,
ii. 238 ; the Prime Minister of,
239 ; wealth of the Maharaja of
239
Jhind, Phulkan chief, i. 270
Joel, Consul, on wheat-growing in
Roldan, i. 102
Johnson River, ii. 131
Johore, i. 61, 307
Joinville, Prince de, and the con
quest of Algeria, i. 15, 16
Jujuy, projected railway extension
to, i. 100
Jumna River, ii. 238
Jute Mills, Calcutta, wages in, ii. 232

Kabyles, characteristics of, i. 16 ;
at Algiers, 22
Kabylia, conquest of, i. 16, 17 ;
toys from, 19
Kaffirs, and the Government of
Cape Colony, ii. 162, 164
' Kaiser-i-Hind,' P. and O. steamer,
ii. 222

Kandy, its scenery, i. 298 ; and
gardens, ii. 101
Kangaroo Island, ii. 2, 3, 34
Keightiey, Mr. S., on the coal in
dustry at Newcastle (N.S.W.), ii.
95
Kelly, Tom, the negro pilot of the
Bahamas, i. 201-203
Kennedy, Admiral, at Calcutta, ii.
228 ; at Bombay, 242
Kennion, Bishop (Primate of South
Australia), ii. 18, 21
Kettle, Mr. Rupert, and the labour
question, ii. 23
Kilauea, the crater of, i. 166-170
Kimberley, Cape, ii. 132
Kimberley, yield of diamonds at,
ii. 156
Kina Balu Mountain, i. 316
Kinchinjunga, peak of, ii. 227, 228
King, Captain, his surveys, i. 59,
122
King, Cape, i. 181
King George's Sound, i. 334 ; the
harbour and its defences, 334,
335 ; Lord Brassey on the de
fence of, ii. 8, 9, 144. See also
Albany
King William IV.'s Land, its
mountains, i. 136
Kingston, Jamaica, i. 197, 198 ;
the church in, 199 ; another visit
to, ii. 195
Kingstown (West Indies), charac
teristics of, ii. 191 ; the Bay,
191 ; condition of the populace,
193
Kioto, opening of a railway to, i.
60
Kirkwall, Orkney, compared with
Thursday Island, ii. 145

270

INDEX

Knights of Labour in New York, i.
231
Kobe, i. 60, 64
Kolaba, Bombay, its church, ii. 245
Kolaba, peninsula, i. 278
Korkan, its early trade, i. 277, 278
Korum Valley, impracticable for
artillery, i. 265
Kotzebue (explorer) at the Pau
motu group, i. 154
Kruger, President, on Boer inde
pendence, ii. 162
Kudat, its harbour, i. 316 ; posi
tion and prospects, 317 ; tobacco
industry, 317 ; dangerous navi
gation of the waters near, 317,
318
Kunching, i. 308 ; its population,
buildings, fort, and roads, 309
Kuper, Admiral, bombards Simo-
noseki, i. 60
Kuro Siwo, i. 60
Kurrachee, i. 259, 261 ; strategical
importance, 259 ; harbour im
provements, 259
Kutub Minar column described, i.
274, 275
Kyber Pass, fort at entrance of, i.
264; trade through the pass,
264 ; difficulties of Russian in
vasion, 265

Laboue question, the, ii. 21-24
La Brea, its pitch lake, i. 190
Labuan, size, i. 312 ; administra
tion of, 313, 314
Ladder Hill, i. 139
Ladrone Islands, i. 59, 122
La Guayra, i. 193, 194; its rail
way, 194

Lahore, i. 259, 261 ; the city, 262,
263 ; its university, 272 ; prison
administration, 277 ; another
call at, ii. 235
Laird, Messrs., makers of the
' Sunbeam's ' engines, i. 63
Lamport & Holt, Messrs., ship
owners, ii. 193
Lancashire, its cotton industry
compared with that of Bombay,
i. 283-289
Lankester, Professor Ray, and the
Marine Biological Station in
Jamaica, ii. 202
L'Anse, i. 242 ; Indians at, 243
Laplanders at Tromso, i. 53 ; num
ber of Laplanders in 1874, 55
Largs, Fort, ii. 33
La Valley, M., his share in con
structing the Suez Canal, i. 41
Lawrence, Sir Henry, Memorial at
Lucknow, ii. 234
Lecky, Captain, and the passage
of Trinidad Channel, i. 147
Lee, Commander, at Sydney, ii. 86
Leeuwin, Cape, i. 341
Leeward Islands, trade with
Tahiti, i. 161
Le Maire (explorer) at the Pau
motu group, i. 154
Le Pere, his survey of the Isthmus
of Suez, i. 34
Lesseps, M. de, early career, i. 34 ;
surveys the Isthmus of Suez,
35 ; concession from Egyptian
Viceroy to construct a canal, 35 ;
submits scheme to an Inter
national Commission, 35 ; suc
cessfully advocates his project
throughout Europe, 36 ; and the
traffic through the Canal, 255

INDEX

271

Levantine troops massacre Chris
tians at Bona, i. 9
Leys, Governor, of Labuan, i. 313
Liebnis, Dr., on the quality of
Mount Morgan gold, ii. 112
' Liguria,' Orient liner, i. 332
Lima, cable to, i. 137
Lindsay, Mr., the explorer, on
South Australia, ii. 30
Linschoten Islands, i. 60
Lisbon, calls at, i. 63, 64, ii. 248
Little-Sea Hill, ii. 107
Liukiu Islands, 1. 60
Lizard, the, i. 214
Lizard Island, ii. 143
Loch, Sir Henry, at Melbourne, ii.
35-37
Locust plagues in the Argentine
Republic, i. 102, 103
Loffoden Islands, its fishing in
dustry, i. 47, 54 ; midnight sun
set off the, 51
Log of the ' Sunbeam,' cruise
round the world in 1876-77, i.
64, 146, 164 ; cruise to the West
Indies in 1883, 217-221 ; cruise
to India and Australia in
1886-87, 250, 251, 291, 324, ii.
4, 35, 70, 107, 133 ; run to the
East in 1893-94, 248
Lombok, the peak of, i. 329, 330
London and the Suez Canal route,
i. 44, 45
London Missionary Society, ii. 148
Long Reach, i. 133 ; its barren
scenery, 134
Longwood, St. Helena, ii. 166
Lookout, Cape, ii. 207
Lookout, Point, ii. 143
Lota, i. 59, 64 ; mines and scenery,
150

Louis, Port, ii. 151 ; botanical
gardens and observatory, 152 ;
defences and docks, 155
Low Archipelago. See Paumotu
Group
Lucern, abundance of, at Buenos
Ayres, i. 116
Lucknow, ii. 233 ; the European
cantonment in, 233 ; the Resi
dency during the Mutiny, 233 ;
the relief of, 234 ; Lawrence
memorial at, 234
Lunar photographs taken at Mel
bourne, ii. 65
' Lurline,' yacht, ii. 212
Lyell, Sir James, visit of the
Maharaja Nabha to, ii. 235
Lyons, Gulf of, ii. 177

' Maoalistee,' American river
steamer, ii. 209
Macao, i. 60
Macartney, Lord, at Grenada, ii.
189
MacBain, Sir James, at Melbourne,
ii. 51
MeClean, Mr., and the Suez Canal
scheme, i. 35
Macdonald, Sir John, on union
with England, ii. 58, 59
Macdonnell, Mr., on emigration, i.
108-110, 112, 113
Mcllwraith, Sir Thomas, his cattle
stations, ii. 127
McKay, Captain, on icebergs, i. 223
McNeil's Zareba, behaviour of the
Sikhs at, i. 267
Macpherson Range, ii. 98
Madagascar, its trade with the
Mauritius, ii. 155

272

INDEX

Madeira, i. 58, 64, 73 ; population
and productions of, 74 ; sub
division of land, 74 ; another
visit to, 186, 187
Madras, ii. 222
'Magdala,' turret vessel, ii. 242
Magellan, his discoveries and death
in the Pacific, i. 121, 122, 151
Magellan, Straits of. See Straits
of Magellan.
Magnetical Isle, ii. 142
Mahi Eddin, i. 15
Mahommedanism in Africa, i. 6, 7
Mahrattas, conflicts with Moguls,
i. 278, 293
Maitea, Island of, i. 156
Maitland (N.S.W.), ii. 93
Majorca, i. 184
Makassar, Dutch administration
of, i. 327 ; effect of, 328, ii. 15 ;
its suburbs, i. 328 ; native dwell
ings, 328, 329
Makassar, Straits of, i. 325 ; diffi
culties of navigation, 326
Malabar Point, Government House
at, i. 259
Malacca, i. 61
Malacca, Straits of, as a trade
route, i. 304
Malakoff, Duke de, his palace in
Algiers, i. 22, 23
Malays, in Sarawak, i. 310, 311
Malcolm, Sir John, statue of, at
Bombay, ii. 244
Malewalle Channel, i. 332
Maling, Captain, of St. Vincent, ii.
191
Malta, coaling-station at, i. 44;
call at, 62, 64, 183; its dock
yard, 184, ii. 244 ; other visits
to, 253, ii. 246, 247

Manaar, Gulf of, its pearl fisheries,
i. 297
Manby, Mr., and the Suez Canal
scheme, i. 35
Manchester, its trade with Sierra
Leone, ii. 167
Manchester Regiment at Agra, i.
276
Mandair River, i. 293
Mandalay, proposed railway com
munication with Rangoon, i.
304
Manifold, Cape, ii. 142
Mansfield, Colonel, at Caraccas, i.
194
Maracas, waterfall, ii. 186
Marble Hill (Mount Lofty range),
ii. 19, 20
Marburgh, ii. 102, 103 ; the village
and its products, 103 ; exhibition
at, 103-105
Marquesas Group, trade with Ta
hiti, i. 159, 161
Marquette, i. 241 ; country passed
through, 241 ; iron industry,
241 ; harbour, 241 ; work of
Jesuit fathers at, 243
Marryat, Captain, on Trade winds,
i. 195
Marseilles and the Suez Canal
route, i. 44, 45 ; trade with
Sierra Leone, ii. 167
Maryborough, its naval contingent,
ii. 106
Matanzas, characteristics of, ii.
205 ; its shipping, i. 206
Mauna Loa, its height, i. 166
Mauritius, the, fares from, in 1869,
i. 43 ; visit to, in 1886, ii. 151 ;
viewed from Port Louis, 151 ;
its mountains, 152; value of

INDEX

273

scientific investigations made at,
152-154; political dissensions,
153 ; sugar industry, wealth,
trade, defences, and docks, 155
Maury, Lieut. (U.S. Navy), i. 67,
187
Maxwell, Mr., at Kuching, i. 308
' Mayflower,' yacht, victory over
' Galatea,' i. 232-236
Mayne, Captain, his survey, i. 59,
122 ; on the navigation of
Smyth's Channel, 135
Mayne Channel, i. 146
Maysi, Cape, i. 200
Mediterranean, lack of sailing
directions for the, i. 66
Mediterranean fleet, its develop
ment since 1862, ii. 247
Mediterranean Sea, and surveys
of the Isthmus of Suez, i. 34,
35
Meeks, Mr. A. W., at Adelaide,
ii. 21
Melbourne, visit to, ii. 33-35 ;
Jubilee banquet, 35-40 ; Impe
rial Federation dinner, 51-60 ;
growth of Melbourne, 62, 63;
situation, 63 ; botanical gardens,
63 ; public and municipal build
ings, 63-65, 77 ; library, 64 ;
observatory, university, and
mint, 65 ; churches, 65, 66 ;
sport at, 66 ; its suburbs, 66 ;
and harbour, 67 ; natural de
fences of, 71 ; the Royal Humane
Society at, 74
Meldrum, Dr., meteorological ob
servations and investigations,
i. 68, ii. 152-154
Mendoza, its fort, i. 116
Menzaleh, Lake, fishery rights in,

of Suez Canal Company sur
rendered, i. 41
Meso de Roldan, i. 184
Messier Channel, i. 145 ; dust
shower in, 149
Metafuz, Cape, i. 8
Meteorology, progress of the
science (1876), i. 68, 69
Metidja, Plain of, i. 23
Mhow, ii. 241
Michigan, a visit to North, i. 222 ;
mines of, 242, 243 ; its pine
forests, 338
Michigan Land and Iron Company,
i. 242, 243
Midas Gold Mine (Victoria), ii. 40,
41
Miller, Consul, on the Tahitian
export trade, i. 160
Miller, Messrs., Melbourne, rail
way contractors, i. 336, ii. 150
Miller, Mr., of the Public Instruc
tion Department, N.S.W., ii. 84
Millianah, i. 23, 24, 26.
Milman, Mr., Commissioner at
Thursday Island, ii. 147
Miners, work and wages of, at
Mount Morgan goldfields, ii. 113 ;
Kimberley diamond, wages of,
156
Minikoi Island, ii. 222
Mirabeau, Earl Russell on, ii. 27
Mirimichie, its lumber trade, i.
241
Mitre, General, leader of the re
volutionists in the Argentine Re
public, i. 117, 118
Mogador, bombarded by the French,
i. 16
Moguls, conflicts with Mahrattas,
i. 293

VOL. II.

274

INDEX

Mohammed Said and the Suez
Canal, i. 35, 27
Molle, Port, ii. 124
Miiller Island, i. 154
Molucca Islands, i. 122
Monday, Cape, i. 134
' Monkshaven ' barque on fire, i.
58, 71, 119, 120; crew trans
ferred to the ss. ' Illimani,' 123
Montague Island, ii. 68
Montesquieu quoted, i. 94
Monte Video, i. 58, 64, 97
Monument Hill (Newcastle,
N.S.W.), ii. 94
Mooltan, i. 259 ; described, 262 ;
its cavalry regiment, 266 ;
climate, 277
Moorish palaces in Algiers, i. 22
Moors in Algeria, i. 6, 7, 9 ; at
Gibraltar, 252
Morant Point, ii. 203
Moravians in Jamaica, ii. 199, 200
Moresby, Port, mission station, ii.
148
Moreton, Cape, ii. 107, 108
Moreton Island, ii. 98, 100
Morgan, Mr., his steamship the
' Corsair,' i. 232
Morialta, country-house on Marble
Hill, ii. 20
Moriarty, Mr., Government engi
neer N.S.W., ii. 85
Morley, Lord, at Gibraltar, i. 185
Morley, Mr. Arnold, his trip to the
Mediterranean, i. 251, 253
Morocco, Emperor of, supports
Abd-el-Kader against the French,
i. 16
Morpeth (N.S.W.), ii. 93
Mort & Co., Messrs., at Balmain,
ii. 84

Moslem invasion of Africa resisted
by the Moors, i. 6, 7
Moulmein, situation of, i. 305 ;
population of, 305 ; its teak in
dustry, 305, 306
Mount Aymond, i. 124
Mount Batten, i. 215
Mount Burney, 'monarch of moun
tains,' i. 136
Mount Edgecumbe, i. 215
Mount Gambier, railway communi
cation, ii. 41 ; the town, its lakes,
and other particulars concern
ing, 43-45
Mount Lofty range, ii. 4, 5, 30 ;
hotel accommodation on, 11 ;
the Governor's house, 19
Mount Morgan gold-mines, ii. 108-
113
Mount Waring, ii. 98
Mourilyan, harbour and industries,
ii. 130-132
Mourilyan Sugar Company, ii. 130
Muara coal-mines, i. 314
Mulhall, on the Central Argentine
Railway, i. 99
Mumtaz-i-Mahal memorial at Agra,
i. 276
Mundella, Mr., and the labour
question, ii. 23
Murmagao, railway communication
with, i. 293
Murray, Captain, his river-boat
' General Gordon,' ii. 79
Murray, Hon. D., at Adelaide, ii.
28
Murray Island, missionary work
at, ii. 147, 148
Murray River, ii. 30
Musa consolidates Mohammedan
ism in Africa, i. 7

INDEX

275

Musgrave, Sir Anthony, Governor
of Queensland, ii. 99, 106
Muti Musjid (Pearl Mosque), at
Agra, ii. 238

Nabha, the Maharaja, ii. 235
Nabhur, Phulkan chief, i. 270
Napier of Magdala, Lord, trunk
road constructed by, in India,
i. 263
Napoleon Bonaparte, his interest
in canalising the Isthmus of
Suez, i. 34
Napoleon III. releases Abd-el-
Kader, i. 17 ; his awards concern
ing the Suez Canal, 40
Narrows, the First and Second,
i. 123-126; Guia, 139-141;
English, 143, 144, 147
Nash, Major, his projected railway
between Trincomalee and India,
i. 300
Nash, Mr., of the Mourilyan Sugar
Co., ii. 130
Nassau, i. 202, 203 ; clearness of
its harbour water, 204
National Anthem, its popularity in
the Colonies, ii. 44, 45
Naval Volunteers and Brigades
(Colonial), ii. 10, 11 ; in Victoria,
46-51; at Sydney, 71, 76, 86,
89, 91 ; in Queensland, 106 ; at
Eockhampton, 113
Navvies, wages of, in Jamaica and
the United States, ii. 201
Navy, British, bombardment of
Algiers by, i. 10-12; skilful
handling of British war-ships,
62 ; at Rio de Janeiro, 96, 97 ;
at Bermuda, 209 ; a tribute to

the Navy, 217 ; force at Bombay,
279, 280, ii. 242 ; Lord Brassey
on the Navy and colonial de
fence, 9, 10, 117-121 ; length of
commissions in, 134 ; force at
Calcutta, 222 ; development in
construction, 246, 247
Neapolitan slaves at Algiers, 1. 10
Needham Point, ii. 177
Negro, Cape, headland of, i. 79
'Nelson,' flagship, at Sydney, ii.
91, 92
Nelson monument at Bridgetown,
ii. 178
Nepaul as a recruiting field, i. 268
Nerbudda, ii. 241
Newcastle, the sanatorium of
Jamaica, i. 198
Newcastle (N.S.W.), its coalfields,
ii. 79, 93-66 ; the work of the
St. John Ambulance Associa
tion at, 86 ; population and
defences, 94 ; places of interest
in, 95
Newfoundland, dense fogs of, i.
222, 223
New Guinea, limited scope for
British enterprise in, ii. 15 ; its
mail service with Cooktown,
134 ; its pearl fisheries, 145 ;
mission work in, 148
New Hebrides, future trade pro
spects, i. 162
New Mole, i. 185
New South Wales, coast of, ii. 68,
69 ; comparative agricultural
statistics concerning, ii. 103
New York and the Suez Canal
route, i. 44, 45 ; and the Panama
Canal route, 198; voyages to,
and experiences there, 222 ; posi-
T 2

276

INDEX

tion and plan of the city, 229 ;
buildings, 229 ; churches, 230 ;
electrical disfigurements, 230 ;
locomotion, 230 ; varieties of
nationalities at, 230, 231 ; pro
cession of the Knights of Labour,
231 ; international yacht race
(1886), 232-236; its communi
cation with Havana, ii. 204
New Zealand, its trade with Tahi
ti, Honolulu, and Newcastle
(N.S.W.), i. 160, 174, ii. 93
Nile, the delta of the, ii. 220
Noble, statue by, at Bombay, ii. 243
Nordenfelt gun in Victoria, ii. 47
' Norham Castle,' liner, i. 186
Normanby Sound, ii. 141
'Northampton,' flagship, aground
at Bermuda, i. 209 ; its farewell
salute to the ' Sunbeam,' 211
Northampton Fusiliers in India,
ii. 232
North Borneo, i. 307 ; how ac
quired, 316 ; its harbours, inte
rior of the country, and produc
tions, 316 ; navigation of its
waters, 317, 318 ; the stations of
Kudat and Sandakan, 317-321 ;
its constabulary, 320 ; Darval
Bay, 321 ; future of North
Borneo, 322 ; excellency of the
Company's administration, 323
North-east Channel, exploration
in, ii. 146-149
Northumberland, Lord Brassey on
arbitration in, ii. 23
Northumberland Islands, Aus
tralia, ii. 123
Norway, rapid passage to, i. 46, 47 ;
coast navigation, craft, and
pilots of, 48, 49 ; scenery of the

coast near Hornehlen, 49 ; emi
gration statistics, 54 ; height of
snowline in, 147
Norwegian emigrants to the United
States, i. 54
Norwegians as seamen, 226

Oakwood harbour, i. 244
' Oceana,' P. and O. steamer, ii. 222
Ocho Rios, i. 199, ii. 203
Ochovario, Point, i. 141
Ogg, Sir William, at Hawkesbury
River, ii. 79
Ogilvy, Messrs., at Winnipeg, ii.
254
' Olga,' German corvette, i. 190-192
Oliver, Mr., at Goa, i. 293
Oosima, i. 177
' Opal,' H.M.S., at Sydney, ii. 92
Opium at Makassar, i. 327
Opium Commission in India, ii.
219, 222, 223, 230, 231, 235, 237,
238, 239, 240, 241, 245, 246
Oran, the French at, i. 15
Orange, i. 231, 232
Orange, Cape, i. 124
Orange Free State, its relations
with Cape Colony, ii. 164
Oranges, St. Michael's, i. 213 ;
export of, from Jamaica, ii. 196
Organ Mountains, its railway as
cent, i. 82 ; scenery, 82 ; viewed
from peak of Corcovado, 95
Orient liners, proposal to call at
Albany, i. 335 ; at Sydney, ii. 72
Orkneys, the, compared with
Thursday and adjacent islands,
ii. 144, 145
Orleans, Duke of, and the conquest
of Algeria, i. 15, 17

INDEX

277

Orotava (Teneriffe), i. 58, 64
Ostrich feathers, sale of, at Port
Elizabeth, ii. 157
Otter Bay, i. 135, 146 ; navigation
in, 136
Otway, Cape, ii. 34
Ouady Toumilat (Land of Goshen),
ancient canal through, i. 33 ;
advantages of the fresh-water
canal to, 38
Oude, services of the Maharajah
of Puttiala at, i. 270 ; the capital
of, ii. 233
Ouled-Oudjams tribes, i. 28
Ovens gold-diggings, i. 128
Owen Island, i. 136

Pacific, incompleteness of sailing
directions for the, i. 66 ; naviga
tion of the, 67 ; discovery of the,
121; voyage across the, 150-
182 ; England's supremacy in,
ii. 84
Pali, i. 174
Palm Islands, ii. 127
Palmer River gold diggings, ii. 134
Palmerston, Lord, his opposition
to the Suez Canal scheme, i.
36
Palmerston (Port Darwin) de
scribed, ii. 150
Palm-oil trade of Sierra Leone, ii.
167
'Paluma,' gun- vessel, ii. 105
Panama Canal, employment of
West Indian negroes on, i. 197 ;
slow progress with the work,
198
Pan d'Azuear, Rio de Janeiro, i.
79, ii. 193

Papiete harbour, i. 157 ; trade
depots, 159, 161
Parana rivers, i. 97
Paria, the Gulf of, i. 189, ii. 184 ;
navigation, i. 190 ; dimensions,
anchorage and climate, 191
Parish, Sir Woodbine, on Buenos
Ayres, i. 106 ; and the Argentine
Republic, 117
Parkes, Sir Henry, Premier of
N.S.W., ii. 83, 90, 91
Parramatta, ii. 90
Parramatta River, ii. 91
Parsons, Mr., on Port Darwin, ii.
150
Patagonia, the coast of, i. 59, 126 ;
gold in, and its effect on Sandy
Point, 128-130
Patapsco River, ii. 208
Paternoster Peak, ii. 124
Paterson, Mr. McDonald, at Mel
bourne, ii. 51
Patna, the Opium Commissioners
at, ii. 230, 231
Paumotu Group (Low Archipelago),
i. 59, 64 ; Mr. Findlay's descrip
tion of, 153; early discoverers
of, 154 ; its trade with Tahiti,
159, 161
Pavtuxent River, ii. 208
Peacock, Colonel, resident at Jey
pore, ii. 238
Pearl fisheries in Ceylon and
Thursday Island, i. 297, ii. 145,
146
Peat's Ferry, ii. 79
Pellew Islands, Captain Hildyard's
adventures on, i. 137, 138
Penang, i. 61
Penas, Gulf of, i. 59, 135, 145, 146,
150 ; glaciers in, 148

278

INDEX

Peninsular and Oriental Steam
ship Company and the lifting
dock atHog's Island, i. 280 ; trade
with Ceylon, 297 ; Australian
service, 335 ; liners as cruisers,
ii. 10 ; at Sydney, 72
Pennsylvania Central Railway, i.
236, 237
Pennsylvania, the State of, i. 237 ;
scenery, 237
Percy Islands, ii. 123
Pernambuco, i. 81
Perth (Australia), its communica
tions with Albany, i. 335
Peru, Viceroy of, and the fortifica
tion of the Straits of Magellan,
i. 131
Peshawur, i. 259 ; railway defences
and forces, 263-265 ; trade, 264,
266 ; climate, 265, 266
Peter Bottle Mountain, ii. 133, 152
Petit, Mr., at Bombay, i. 283, 289
Petropolis, i. 82 ; its mountain
railway, 82 ; the town, 83 ; forest,
83 ; German colonists at, 85
Pharaoh Necho, his canal, i. 33
Philippines, the, discovered by
Magellan, i. 122
Philipville, the port of, i. 28
Phillip, Port, ii. 34, 35 ; harbour,
40 ; bay, 41 ; heads, 68
Phillips, Mr. W. H., at Adelaide,
ii. 28
Phipps, Mr., on Brazil, i. 86, 90, 92
Pico, the peak of, i. 212, ii. 170 ;
whaling at, 172
Piddington, his meteorological in
vestigations, i. 68
Pigeon House, ii. 142
Piggott, Major, and the Yonnies
expedition, ii. 167

Pike, Lieut., of H.M.S. ' Harrier,'
ii. 134.
Pile Light, ii. 35
Pillar, Cape, i. 134
Pine, Mr. Ruskin on the, i. 338
Pine Island, ii. 123
Piney Point, ii. 212
Piper Islands, ii. 139
Piracy, suppression of, at Sarawak,
i. 309, 310. See also Corsairs of
Barbary
Pitch Lake, ii. 184
Pitons of St. Lucia, ii. 193
Pittsburgh, i. 237
Pius IX., edict against Free
masonry in Brazil, i. 82
Plantain, cultivation of, in Cuba,
ii. 205
Plymouth, visit to the dockyard at,
i. 251
Polynesia, i. 155, 163
Pomare, late Queen of Tahiti, i.
163
Ponce Mountain, ii. 152 ; ascended,
154
Pope-Hennessy, Sir John, and the
Mauritius, ii. 153
Port of Spain, i. 189, 190
Port Royal, naval establishment,
i. 195, 196, 198 ; the Cays of, ii.
195 ; visit to, 202
Port Said, engineering difficulties
at, i. 39, 40 ; coaling station, 44,
255 ; calls at, 62, ii. 219
Porto Pirn, harbour, ii. 171
Porto Praya, ii. 168, 169
Portsmouth, its defences, i. 281
Portugal, subdivision of land in,
i. 74 ; and the possession of St.
Antonio, 78; possessions in
India, 293 ; fall of dominion

INDEX

279

there, 294 ; administration of
Goa, 295 ; of Porto Praya and
Fayal, ii. 168, 172
Portuguese emigrants in Brazil, i.
93
Possession Bay, i. 64, 123, 126, 146
Possession, Port, early Spanish
settlement at, i. 131, 132
Potomac River, ii. 207-209, 211 ;
navigation of, 212
Prince of Wales Channel as a trade
route, ii. 143, 144
Princess Royal Harbour, i. 334, ii. 1
Protection, Lord Brassey on, ii.
24-26
' Protector,' gunboat, ii. 33
Puco Gaya, i. 325
Puerto Bueno, i. 137, 146; fresh
water lake, 138 ; vegetation, 138,
139
Pullman, Mr., his carriage factory
near Chicago, i. 240, 241
Punjaub, annexation of the, i. 262 ;
capital, 262; defences, 263;
armed force in, 263 ; as a re
cruiting field for soldiers, 268 ;
for Burmah police, 303
Punta Delgada, gardens, i. 213
Puttiala, i. 259 ; loyalty of its
rulers, 270, 272 ; administration
during a minority, 270, 271 ;
state procession, 271, 272 ; visit
to the Maharajah's stables and
palace, 272 ; college, 272 ; State
Durbar, 272

Queen Channel, i. 126
Queensland, ii. 98 ; products, 101 ;
gold, 102, 108-113, 127 ; cattle
rearing, 102, 103, 130, 140 ; de

fences, 105, 106; prospects of
emigrants, 126 ; sugar industry,
128-132 ; government aid to
navigation, 136 ; trade through
the Torres Straits, 144 ; and the
defences of Thursday Island,
144 ; protectorate over Pacific
Islands, 146; native police, 147
Queenstown, i. 222
Quiros, discoverer of Paumotu
Group, i. 154
Quop, i. 308

Ragged Point, ii. 177
Raitea, i. 59, 64
Rajpoora, Bay of, i. 292
Rajputana, States of, poppy culti
vation, ii. 239
Raleigh, Sir Walter, takes Pedro
Seranto prisoner, i. 132
Ramam River, ii. 227
Rambleta, plain of, on the peak of
Teneriffe, i. 75
' Ramillies,' H.M.S., ii. 247
Rangoon, i. 301, 307 ; progress
under British rule, 301 ; rice
industry, 301, 305 ; proposed
railway communication with
Mandalay, 304
Rangoon River, i. 292
Rangut River, ii. 227
Rao Bahardar, Prime Minister of
Indore, ii. 241
Rappahannock River, ii. 208
Bas Seger, i. 258
Rawson, Dr., on the Argentine
Republic, i. 98
Rawul Pindi, i. 264, 266
Reay, Lord, as Governor of Bom
bay, i. 259, 260

280

INDEX

' Redbreast,' British gun-vessel, ii.
228
Redfern, ii. 79
Red Point, ii. 142
Red Sea, and surveys of the Isth-
, mus of Suez, i. 34, 35 ; voyage
through, 61 ; navigation, 256 ;
need of additional lights in, ii.
221
Reeves, Sir George, on the West
Indies, ii. 216
Reid, his meteorological investiga
tions, i. 68
Reid, Mr. Hugh R., on Sailors'
Rests, ii. 60
Reindeer, Lapland, i. 53
Rendel, Mr., and the Suez Canal
scheme, i. 35
Richards, Admiral, aids to naviga
tion, i. 67
Riley, Mr., Mayor of Sydney, ii.
79
' Ringo,' Japanese corvette, ii. 18
Rio Bonito, Baron de, his fazenda
in Brazil, i. 88 ; kindness to Bri
tish emigrants, 88 ; construction
and establishment of the fa
zenda, 89 ; service in chapel, 89 ;
slaves, 89 ; and the education of
slaves, 92
Rio Bonito, i. 82
Rio de Janeiro, i. 58, 64, 79 ; har
bour, mountains and scenery, 79,
80, ii. 193 ; possibility of its be
coming a separate state, i. 81 ;
viewed from the Organ Moun
tains, 83 ; excursions from Rio,
94, 95 ; viewed from the peak of
Corcovado, 95 ; prevalence of
yellow fever at, and its probable
cause, 95

Rio Grande do Sul, 1. 81 ; German
colonists at, 86
Rio Quinto, i. 116
Ripon, Lord, and the establishment
of municipal councils in India,
i. 261
River Plate, i. 58 ; desertions from
H.M.'s vessels there, 97 ; estuary
of the Plate, 97 ; difficulties of
navigation, 98 ; projected rail
way communication with Val
paraiso, 99 ; Mr. Macdonnell on
emigration to River Plate, 108 ;
suitable emigrants for, 111. See
also Argentine Republic
Robertson, on the loss of the
Spanish fleet at Algiers, i. 8
Robertson, Colonel, resident at
Indore, ii. 240
Robertson, Sir John, at Hawkes
bury picnic, ii. 79
Robinson, Sir Spencer, on the
protection of the trade route in
South America, i. 7-7
Robinson, Sir William, Governor
of South Australia, ii. 5, 19, 20,
29, 41, 43, 45
Eockhampton, its naval contin
gent, ii. 106 ; visit to, 108 ; re
view of naval brigade and
volunteers, 113 ; Lord Brassey
interviewed, 114-122 ; descrip
tion of the town, 122
Rockingham Channel, ii. 128
Rodonto Island, ii. 68
Rodriguez Island, ii. 151
Roggewein, explorer, at the Pau
motu Group, i. 154
Roldan, the colony of, i. 101 ; ex
traordinary crop of wheat at, 102
Roman Catholics at Tatakotoroa,

INDEX

281

i. 154 ; at Goa, 294 ; at Sydney,
ii. 73 ; at Mount Morgan, 113
Romans, trade and connection with
Algiers, i. 3, 6 ; and Pharaoh
Necho Canal, 34
Rosario, i. 58 ; railway communi
cation with, 99 ; physical fea
tures of the country round, 100 ;
small colonies formed near, 101 ;
price of wheat, 101 ; cattle-rear
ing, 103 ; price of land, 105
Rosewood, ii. 105
Ross Creek, ii. 126
Rosse, Lord, and marine biology
in Jamaica, ii. 202
Rotterdam (Makassar), Dutch fort,
i. 327, 328
Royal Geographical Society of
Australia, ii. 90
Royal Humane Society at Sydney,
ii. 74
Royal Society and the progress of
meteorology, i. 68, 69
Rubies of Ceylon, i. 296
Rumbold, Sir Horace, on Chili, i.
150
Ruskin on the pine, i. 338
Russell, Earl, on Mirabeau, ii. 27
Russian invasion of India by the
Kyber discussed, i. 261, 265 ; and
the coal-mines of Muara, 314 ;
Lord Brassey on Russia's ten
dency to unity, ii. 114 ; and on
Russia as a maritime power,
120 ; Mr. Blaine on Russia and
the Eastern Question, 212

Sagami, Cape, i. 181
Sahara, the Great, i. 5, 30
Sailors. See Seamen

Sailors' Homes, at Port Adelaide,
ii. 18 ; Port Melbourne, 60 ; Cal
cutta, 230 ; Bombay, 243
St. Antonio Island, visit to, i. 58,
64 ; its products, 76 ; scenery,
77 ; its strategic advantages if
acquired by England, 78; view
of, ii. 169
St. George, Grenada, ii. 186, 187
St. George, Cape, ii. 69
St. Helena, ii. 165 ; scenery, 165,
166
St. Innes' Island, i. 133
St. John, Mr., on Buenos Ayres,
i. 109 ; and the Argentine Re
public, 117
St. John Ambulance Association
in Australia, ii. 61, 85-90
St. Lucia, the Pitons of, ii. 193 ;
port, 193; coaling at, 194;
compared with Barbados as a
military station, 195 ; land in,
215
St. Mary, Cape, ii. 247
St. Michael's, i. 213 ; its fertility,
213 ; its oranges and other
fruits, 213 ; its geysers, 213
St. Nazaire, steamship communi
cation with Havana, ii. 204
St. Roque, Cape, position of, on
trade route, i. 77
St. Vincent, visit to and calls at,
i. 252 ; ii. 176, 248 ; coaling
station at, 169 ; proposed model
plantations, 190 ; scenery,
191 ; native objections to ad
ministrative changes, 191 ; pro-.
ducts, 192 ; wages of native
labourers, 192, 193; land in,
214, 215
St. Vincent, Gulf of, ii. 4,11, 17, 20

282

INDEX

Salame, Mr., British interpreter
at Algiers, i. 13
Salisbury, Lord, and the Imperial
Conference, ii. 117
Salomons, Hon. Julian, at Hawkes
bury River, ii. 79
Salt trade of Goa, i. 295
Salwen River, i. 305
Saman trees in the West Indies,
ii. 186
Samuel, Mr., at Cockatoo Island,
ii. 85
Sandakan harbour, i. 316, 318,
319 ; tobacco cultivation, 316 ;
dangerous navigation, 317, 318 ;
town and population, 319 ; sur
roundings, 319 ; head-quarters
of the constabulary, 320
Sand Heads, ii. 222
Sandridge (Victoria), ii. 67
Sandwich Islands, i. 59, 64, 164,
165
Sandy Cape, ii. 142
Sandy Hook, i. 229
Sandy Point, i. 58, 124, 146 ; im
portance to, of improved facili
ties for navigation, 125 ; a penal
settlement, 127 ; Chilian aspira
tions regarding the town, 127 ;
coal and gold, 127-130 ; water,
129
San Fernando, i. 190
San Francisco, suggested hydro-
graphic investigation there, i.
67; trade with Tahiti, 160,
161 ; Honolulu, 174 ; Newcastle
(N.S.W.) and England, ii. 93
Sangar, ii. 223
San Isidro, Cape, scenery off, i.
131
San Pedro I., i. 145

San Paulo, free labour In, i. 93
San Rafael, fortifications, i. 116
Santa Fe, value of land at, i. 105
Santa Magdalena, bird life, i. 126
Santos, yellow fever at, ii. 193
Sarawak, the capital of, i. 308 ;
navigation of its river, 308 ;
police force, 309 ; suppression
of piracy in, 309 ; progress of
civilisation and commerce, 309,
310 ; communication with Sin
gapore, 310 ; population, 311 ;
administration, 311 ; weak
points of government, 312 ;
necessity of a. British protecto
rate, 312
Sardinia, i. 184
Sardinian slaves at Algiers, i. 10
Sarmiento, President (1873), i. 118
Sarmiento, i. 133
Sarmiento Channel, i. 136, 137
Sassoon, Sir Albert, present to
Bombay, ii. 244
Saumarez Island, i. 142
Savage, Mr., missionary at Murray
Island, ii. 148
Schooners, trading, in the Pacific,
style and build of, i. 159, 160
Schouten, explorer, at the Paumotu
Group, i. 154
Scilly Islands, ii. 173
Scotch colonists in the Argentine
Republic, i. 100
Scotland, trade with Argentine
Republic, i. 109 ; rice-milling
machinery, 302
Scott, Sir Gilbert, designs Lahore
Cathedral, i. 263 ; and library at
Bombay, ii. 243
Scott, Mr., his meteorological in
vestigations, i. 68

INDEX

283

Seal - fishing fleet at Victoria,
Canada, ii. 265
Seamen, hardships of, i. 69 ;
British, 70-73; the crew of a
liner, 225 ; duties and wages,
226, 227 ; foreign and British sea
men, 226, 227 ; in the engine-
room, 228 ; stokers, 228 ; wages
of, at Port Adelaide, ii. 18 ; life
at Calcutta, 224
Sea Reach, i. 134
Secundra, the tomb of Akbar at,
ii. 238
Seranto, Pedro, Spanish naviga
tor, at Fort Famine, i. 131, 132
Serpent's Mouth, i. 191
' Servia,' liner, i. 222
Seven Sisters, mountain range, i. 50
Shah Jehan memorials in Iodia,
i. 274, 276, ii. 238
Shanghai, and the Suez Canal o.
the Panama routes, i. 44, 45
Shanklin, Mr., and gold at Sandy
Point, i. 128, 129
Sherwin, Miss Amy, the Tasmanian
singer, ii. 65
Shikarpur, i. 259, 260, 261
Ship Channel, Bermuda, i. 209
Shortland, Lieut., of Newcastle
(N.S.W.), ii. 93
Siam, proposed communication
with India, i. 305
Sibatu Island, i. 325
Sicily, its trade with the Roman
Empire, i. 3
Sidi Ferruch (Algeria), landing of
French troops at, i. 15
Sierra Leone, ii. 151, 166; the
Church in, 167; trade, 167;
troops at, 167, 168 ; Governor's
residence, 168

Sikh war, the second, i. 262
Sikhs, the, as soldiers, i. 267, 268 ;
loyalty during the Mutiny,
270 ; as police in North Borneo,
320 ; British confidence in, ii.
229 ; physique of the, 235, 236
Sikkim, ii. 228
Silam, Chinese settlement at, i.
321, 322
Siliguri, its railway, ii. 226
Silver, in South Australia, ii. 31,
150 ; question in the United
States, 210, 211
Simonoseki, i. 60, 64, 70
Sindh, Lord Reay's official visit
in, i. 259, 260 ; its barrenness,
261
Sing, Sir Deva, his views on
British policy in India, i. 273
Singapore, i. 60, 64, 70, 290, 291,
307 ; communication with Sara
wak, 310 ; commerce with
Brunei and North Borneo, 315,
317 ; compared with Makassar,
328, ii. 15
Singular Peak, i. 141
Sir James Smith Islands, ii. 123
Sirsuti River, ii. 241
Sisal hemp, a product of St.
Vincent, ii. 192
Sivaji, Admiral of the Bijapur
fleet, i. 293
Skudesnaes (Norway), i. 47
Skyring, his nautical survey, i.
122
Slaves, Christian, in Algeria, i. 9,
13, 14; in Brazil, 88-93; at
Sarawak, 310 ; in Jamaica, ii.
196, 197
Smith, Captain, harbour-master of
Honolulu, i. 177

284

INDEX

Smith, Mr. E. T., Mayor of Ade
laide, ii. 12, 20
Smith, Mr. Whitfield, of Grenada,
ii. 189
Smoky Cape, ii. 142
Smyth's Channel, i. 59, 64, 134 ;
navigation of, 135, 144, 146 ;
scenery, 139-141
SnsebraB, its snowy peaks, i. 51
Society Islands, i. 59, 64 ; trade
with Tahiti, 159
Socotra Group, ii. 221, 222
Solitary Islands, ii. 97
Solomon Island, trade prospects
with, i. 162
Somerset, Duke of, and the dock
yard at Malta, i. 184
Somerset (North Queensland),
cattle station ai, ii. 140
Soudan War, and the Australian
Contingent, ii. 8, 85
Sounding instrument, Sir W.
Thomson's, i. 214, ii. 34
South America, difficulties of
navigation around its coast, i
122 ; Spanish settlements in, ii.
206
South Australia, ii. 1-3 ; the
Governor of, 5 ; meeting of
R.G.S. of Australasia, 13-16 ; the
Church in Australia, 18 ; labour
question, 21, 30 ; education, 26,
31, 32 ; ceremony of opening
Parliament, 29 ; proclamation
of the Province, 29 ; debt and
revenue, extension of territory,
29, 30 ; soil and products,
30-32; State railways, 31, 41;
defences, 32, 33 ; land question,
44, 45 ; comparative agricultural
statistics concerning, 103 ; re

sources of the Northern Territory
150, 151
' South Australian Register,' ii.
6-11
South Mahratta Railway, i. 293
South Reach, i. 144
South Sea Islands, native mission
aries and beche-de-mer fishers,
ii. 148, 149
South Seas, Magellan in the, i.
122
Southern Ocean, storm in, ii. 2
Spahis, native police of Algeria,
i. 25, 26,'27
Spain, failure of, to subdue the
Corsairs of Barbary, i. 7, 9 ; con
nection with Trinidad, ii. 185 ;
administration of Cuba, 204, 206
Spaniards at Gibraltar, i. 252
Spanish discoveries and surveys in
the Pacific, i. 121, 122 ; settle
ment at Fort Famine, 131 ; its
fate, 131
Spartel, Cape, i. 252, ii. 177
Spezia, ii. 176, 219
Spithead, its forts, i. 281
Sprigg, Sir Gordon, his career, ii.
160
Staines Peninsula, i. 136
Staoueli, battle of, i. 15
Steamers, Lord Brassey on subsi
dising mail and other steamers
for Colonial defence, ii. 9, 10
Steele, James W., on Cuba, ii. 204,
205
Stellenbosch, ii. 160; the Univer
sity, 161
Stephenson, George : his opposi
tion to the Suez Canal scheme,
i. 36, 39, 40 ; and the late Mr. T.
Brassey, ii. 81, 82

INDEX

285

Stevens, Mr., designs Sailors'
Home at Bombay, ii. 243
Stewart, Mr., at Albany, i. 336,
339
Stock, Mr., Mayor of Glenelg, ii. 3,
11
Stokes, his nautical survey, i. 122
Stonewall, its anchorage, i. 124
Storms, the law of, explained, i.
206-208, 332, 333 ; a revolving
one, ii. 207
Stout, Sir Robert, on England and
the Colonies, ii. 7
Stradbroke Island, ii. 98, 100
Straits of Magellan, through the, i.
58, 59, 64, 65 ; rescue of the crew
of the ' Monkshaven ' barque,
119-121 ; discovery of the Straits,
121 ; the first passage, 122 ;
Spanish and later surveys, 122 ;
reconnaissance of the coast,
123 ; navigation of the First
and Second Narrows, 124-126 ;
Sandy Point, 127-130 ; naviga
tion of Straits impossible for
sailing vessels, 130 ; scenery
going south from Sandy Point,
131 ; Spanish fortification of
the Straits, 131 ; rounding Cape
Froward, 132 ; English and
Long Reaches, 133 ; Sea Reach
and Smyth's Channel, 134, 135 ;
navigation of the latter, 135 ;
Otter Bay, 135 ; intricacy of
navigation on leaving, 136 ;
meet the ' Dacia ' at Puerto
Bueno, 137-139; the Guia
Narrows, 139 ; scenery of
Smyth's Channel, 139-140 ; the
Wide Channel, 141 ; Chasm
Reach and Port Grappler, 142 ;

Indian Reach and English
Narrows, 143 ; dangers of the
latter, 143-147 ; Mayne and
Trinidad Channels recommen
ded, 147 ; height of the snow
line, 147 ; number of glaciers in
the Straits, 148 ; temperature,
dust shower and scantiness of
population, 149
Strickland, Sir Edward, ii. 79
Suez Canal, a visit to, in 1869, i.
33 ; previous canals on the
Isthmus, 33 ; various surveys of
the Isthmus, 34 ; M. de Lesseps'
survey and scheme, 34-36 ;
British opposition to, 36 ; es
tablishment of the Company,
37 ; cutting the first trench, 37 ;
the army of forced labourers,
37 ; difficulty and cost of supply
ing drinking water, 37; con
struction of fresh-water canal,
38, 39 ; difficulties of forming a
Mediterranean port, 39 ; forced
labour prohibited by the Porte,
40 ; the Emperor Napoleon's
award concerning this and other
matters, 40, 41 ; mechanical
labour-saving appliances used,
41 ; nationalities employed in
construction, 41 ; length of the
Canal, 42 ; prevention of sand
shifting, 42 ; expenditure on its
construction, 42, 43 ; commercial
value, 43 ; increased investment
in steam shipping consequent
on its completion, 43 ; saving
in distance and effect on Medi
terranean ports, 44, 45 ; probable
effect of the proposed Panama
Canal on Suez Canal traffic, 44,

286

INDEX

45 ; extensive use of the Canal
by Great Britain, 61, 254 ; pas
sage through in 1876 and 1886,
65, 254 ; traffic through, 255 ;
value of the Canal to India, 278 ;
as a trade route, 305 ; effect of,
on the trade of the Mauritius, ii.
155
Sugar-loaf Peaks of Rio and St.
Lucia, i. 79, ii. 193
Sukkur, i. 259-261; its railway
bridge, 261
Suleiman Mountains, Beloochee
raids from, i. 260
Sulu, Sultan of, sale of territory
to North Borneo Company, i.
316
Sunbawa volcano, i. 329
' Sunbeam,' rapid passage to Nor
way, i. 46 ; loss of one of her
crew, 49 ; good points of the
yacht, 55 ; cruise round the
world (1876-77), 58; in' the
Suez Canal, 62 ; description of
the vessel, 63 ; useful type for
naval service, 64 ; her good
qualities, 65; loss of spars, 65
her crew in 1876-77, 70-73
rescue of the ' Monkshaven's
crew by, 120; interest of Hao
natives in, 155 ; invaded by
native fruit-vendors of Tahiti,
157 ; conduct of yacht in a
squall, 178, 179; cruise to the
West Indies in 1883, 184 ; action
in the Trades, 195 ; visit of West
Indian Church dignitaries to,
199 ; passage through the Ba
hama Channel, 200-203 ; good
behaviour of. vessel and skill
of her crew in voyage to Ber

muda, 205, 206 ; address to crew
on starting for India and Aus
tralia (1886-87), 248, 249 ; dodg
ing a 'levanter,' 252; punctu
ality of vessel, 259 ; rifle compe
tition for crew, 320 ; navigation
of, in Indian Ocean, 330-333 ;
behaviour off Kangaroo Island,
ii. 2 ; boarded by Press repre
sentative at Port Adelaide, 5 ;
social gathering on board at
Glenelg, 11, 12 ; 'At Homes ' on
board, 19, 91 ; visit of Adelaide
branch of Seamen's Union to,
29 ; and Melbourne ladies' com
mittee of Sailors' Rest, 60, 61 ;
visit of old Hastingers to, 77, 78 ;
on show at Sydney, 90 ; farewell
to Sydney, 92 ; navigation of,
through Great Barrier Reef, 136 ;
voyage to Ascension, 166; en
counters gales off St. Antonio,
Horta, and Terceira, 169, 170,
173 ; defects of boiler and be
haviour of her crew during voy
age to India and Australia in
1886-87, 174, 175; trip to the
West Indies in 1892, 176, 194,
213 ; run to the East, 219, 222 ;
Christmas Day on board at Cal
cutta, 228 ; crew join in sports
there, 230; at Bombay, 241;
return from Bombay, 246, 247.
See also Log of the ' Sunbeam '
Sunda, Strait of, i. 330
Sunday, Cape, ii. 107
Sunset at Biskra, i. 32 ; off Loffo-
den Islands, 51 ; at Ismailia, 255
' Superb,' H.M.S., i. 252
Superior, ¦ Lake, Jesuit mission-
stations on its shores, i. 243, 244

INDEX

287

Susquehanna River, ii. 208
Swain reefs of Australia, ii. 123
Sweden, trade with Hao, i. 156
Swiss colonists in the Argentine
Republic, i. 100
Switzerland, trade with Hao, i. 156
Sydney : harbour, ii. 70 ; its de
fences, 71 ; situation, 71, 72 ;
attractive views of harbour, 72 ;
names of streets, 72 ; high rents,
72 ; picture gallery and cathe
drals, 73 ; Royal Humane So
ciety meeting at, 74 ; Chinese
in, 74 ; poverty in, 74 ; the
German training squadron, 75 ;
the University, 75 ; Colonial
Society at, 76 ; naval volunteers,
77 ; municipal buildings, 77 ;
old residents of Hastings at, 77 ;
excursions from and meetings
at, 78-91; its naval brigade, 91 ;
and the pearl fisheries at Thurs
day Island, 145
Sydney Cove, ii. 72
Sydney, Mount, ii. 69
Symes, Mr., at Puttiala, i. 271

Table Bay, ii. 157 ; its breakwater,
158
Table Hill, ii. 69
Table Mountain, beauties of, ii. 158
Tagus, ii. 248
Tahiti, i. 59, 64, 151, 152, 156 ;
suggested hydrographic investi
gation there, 67; French pro
tectorate over, 154 ; appearance
of the island, 157 ; Christianity
at, 157-159 ; population, 159 ;
naval review at, 159 ; trade and
commerce, 159, 160, 162 ; trad

ing craft, 159, 160; French
sway in, 163 ; laws, 163 ; form
of government, 164
Taj Mahal mausoleum at Agra,
its architecture, i. 276, ii. 237,
238
Talabot, his survey of the Isth
mus of Suez, i. 34
Tampa, communication with Ha
vana, ii. 204
Tangiers, bombarded by the
French, i. 16 ; call at, ii. 176
Tanjfing po, lighthouse on, i. 308
Tanna Ballu, i. 325
Tanteles volcano, i. 149
Tapioca, yield of, in Brazil, i. 88
Tarafel Bay, i. 58, 64 ; particulars
concerning, 76, 78
Tarlton, Hon. R. A., at Melbourne,
ii. 13
Tatakotoroa, i. 152, 154
Tavoy, proposed railway communi
cation with Bangkok, i. 304
Tea, Ceylon, i. 297
Teak industry of Burmah, i. 302,
305
Teetulpa gold-diggings, ii. 17, 31
Telescope, the great, at Melbourne,
ii. 65
Teneriffe, ascent of the Peak of,
i. 58, 74, 75 ; view from its sum
mit, 75 ; call at, ii. 176
Teniet-el-Had, i. 23, 25, 26, 28;
its cedar forest, 27
Tennyson, quoted, ii. 186
Tenterfield, ii. 97
Terai, jungle of the, ii. 226
Terceira, visit to, ii. 173, 174
' Thames,' liner, i. 258
Thana, its railway communication
. with India, i. 278

288

INDEX

Theebaw, King, deposition of, i.
302-304
Thibet, ii. 228
Thirsty Sound, ii. 142
Thomas, Captain Brodrick, on the
Victorian naval brigade, ii. 46-51
Thomson, Sir William, his sound
ing-machine, i. 214, ii. 34
Thorne & Stuttaford, Messrs., at
Cape Town, ii. 159
Thornhill, Bishop, of Brisbane, ii.
102, 106
Thornycroft torpedo-boat ' Chil-
ders ' in Victoria, ii. 46
Three Brothers, the, ii. 142
Three Points, Cape, ii. 142
Thucydides, quoted, ii. 59
Thursday Island, ii. 135 ; garrison
at, 140 ; position, 143 ; defences,
144 ; compared with the Ork
neys, 144, 145 ; population and
pearl-fishery industry, 145
Tiel Sund, the passage of, i. 52
Tierra del Fuego, navigation of its
Channels, i. 122, 123 ; natives
of, 133 ; height of snow-line at,
147 ; its glaciers, 148
Tijuca, scenery, i. 95 ; salubrity,
96
Timsah, Lake, position of Ismailia
on, i. 42
Titan Mine (Michigan), i. 242
Tobago, i. 188, 189
Tokio (formerly Yedo), i. 181
Torghatten, Island of, i. 50
Torres Straits, ii. 107, 143, 149 ;
as a trade route, 144 ; pearl
fisheries in, 145
Tortugas, colonists at, and their
misfortunes, i. 103, 104
Townsville, Queensland, naval con

tingent, ii. 106 ; railways," 126 ;
the town and harbour, 126, 127
Toynbee, Captain, his meteoro
logical investigations, i. 68
Tracey, Mr. Secretary, on naval
armament, ii. 212
Trades, the, effect of the, on navi
gation, i. 188 ; Captain Marryat
on the, 195
Trafalgar, Cape, i. 252
Trans-Australian Railway, the be
ginnings of, ii. 150
Transvaal, its relations with Cape
Colony, ii. 162-164 ; gold in, 163
Treacher, Mr., ex-Governor of
North Borneo, i. 323, 325
Treachery Bay, effect of mission
work in, ii. 148
Treaty Point, i. 182
Trenear, Mr., of the Mount Morgan
gold-mines, ii. Ill
Tribulation, Cape, ii. 142
Trieste, and the Suez Canal, i. 44
Trincomalee, dockyard, i. 279, 299 ;
visit to, 292 ; its harbour, 297,
298 ; costliness of its naval
establishment, 299 ; proposal to
transfer its administration to the
Indian Government, 299, 300;
defences of Trincomalee, 300 ;
projected railway at, 300 ; fort,
300, 301
Trinidad, i. 187-189 ; scenery, 189,
ii. 186 ; statistics concerning, i.
192 ; viewed from the sea( ii.
183 ; products, 184, 199 ; popu
lation, 184 ; chequered history,
185 ; progress, 185 ; waterfall,
185, 186 ; vegetation, 186 ; culti
vation of land in, 214 ; govern
ment, 216

INDEX

289

Trinidad Channel, i. 147
Trinity Bay, ii. 142
Trollope, Mr. Anthony, on College
Hall, Sydney University, ii. 75
Tromso, i. 53
Tropics, nights in the, i. 331
Tryon Point, i. 141
Tubuai Group, trade with Tahiti,
i. 159
Tucuman, railway extension to,
i. 100
Tudhope, Mr., at Cape Town, ii.
160
Tunis, Dey of, and Lord Exmouth,
i. 9
Turkish troops in Algeria, i. 8, 9
Tyler, Dr., at Agra, i. 277
Tyson, Mr., the Australian mil
lionaire, ii. 126, 130

Ulladulla, derivation of, ii. 69
Umballah, the Opium Commis
sioners at, ii. 235
Unfit Bay, i. 139
United States, the, and the Pana
ma Canal, i. 44 ; Norwegian
emigrants to, 54 ; trade with
Argentine Republic, 99, 117 ; as
a field for emigration compared
with the Argentine Republic,
110-113 ; survey of the Kilauea
crater, 168 ; influence in Hawaii,
176 ; a flying visit to the States
in 1886, 222 ; distance covered,
222 ; passage to New York in
the ' Germanic,' 222 ; danger of
icebergs, 223 ; emigrants to, 224,
225 ; the crew of an Atlantic
liner, 225-228 ; arrival at Sandy
Hook, 229 ; New York, 229-231 ;
VOL. II.

Orange, 231, 232 ; yacht-racing,
232-236 ; journey to Chicago,
236-241 ; Marquette, 241-243 ;
Cleveland, 244 ; social and poli
tical condition of the States,
244, 245 ; business practice, 245 ;
condition of the people, 245 ;
education, 246 ; constitution,
246 ; fiscal policy, 246 ; relations
with Great Britain, 247, ii. 116 ;
Protection in, 26 ; America com
pared with Australia, 99 ; its
whale fisheries at Faval, 172 ;
its trade with the West Indies,
182-185, 192, 196, 203; social
position of coloured population
in, 199 ; labourers' wages in,
201 ; and marine biology in
Jamaica, 202 ; trade with Ha
vana, 204 ; call at, in 1892, 207 ;
coasting-schooners, 208, 209 ;
gun-foundry at Washington, 210
Upright Point, ii. 69, 142

Vaast Fioed, navigating the, i. 52
Valencia, ii. 176
Valparaiso, i. 59, 64, 150-152, 156;
projected railway communica
tion with, 99 ; cable to, 137 ;
trade with Tahiti,. 160
Vancouver Island, extension of
communications between, and
the Colonies, ii. 9, 10
Van de Capellen, Dutch vice-
admiral, i. 9
Venezuela, i. 193, 194
Venice and the Cape of Good Hope
passage, i. 44
Venus, Point, i. 156, 162
Verdes, Cape de, i. 58, 64, 76 ;
U

290

Index

position of, on trade route, 77,
78
Vernier, M., French Protestant
pastor at Tahiti, i. 157
Vernon, Lieutenant (U.S.N.), i.
146
Vernon, Mount, ii. 209
' Vernon,' reformatory ship, ii. 84
Vibarts, Colonel, of the Mooltani
Horse, i. 266
Victoria, Queen, Jubilee celebration
at Adelaide and Melbourne, ii.
12, 35-40, 54, 55, 64 ; New Year's
celebration in honour of, at Cal
cutta, 230; statue of, at Bombay,
243
Victoria (Australia), Queen Vic
toria's Jubilee celebrated at, ii.
35-40; gold-mines, 40, 62; de
fences, 46-51 ; population and
climate, 61; products, 62 ; State
railways, 62 ; public libraries,
64 ; comparative agricultural
statistics concerning, ii. 103
Victoria (Queensland), sugar in
dustry at, ii. 127
Victoria Yacht Club, Australia, ii.
51
Villefranche, i. 213, ii. 176
Virgins, Cape, i. 121, 123, 130, 145,
146
'Volage,' H.M.S., smart appear
ance of her crew, i. 96
Volantes, a Cuban vehicle, ii. 205,
206
Volney, on the hillsmen of India,
i. 268
Volunteers, Colonial, i. 300, ii. 9,
114. See also Naval Volunteers
Voyages of Lord Brassey, summary
of, distances sailed, countries

and places visited, and yachts
used, ii. 249, 250
Vries, i. 180, 181
Wadia, Mr., on Bombay cotton
mill industry, i. 284
' Wager,' wreck of the, i. 145
Wages in Western Australia, i. 339,
340 ; in India, ii. 231, 232
Waghorn, Lieutenant, his survey
of the Isthmus of Suez, i. 34
Wales, Prince of, statue at Bombay,
ii. 243
Wallis, explorer, at the Paumotu
Group, i. 154
Walsh, Mr., of Cardwell, ii. 130
Warburton, Major, at the Jamrud
Fort, i. 264
Warning, Mount, ii. 142
Washington, George, monument
on the River Potomac, ii. 211
Washington, ii. 207-209 ; visit to
the Navy yard, 210 ; Congress
and the silver question, 210,
211 ; public buildings and his
torical pictures, 211
Washington, Fort, ii. 209
Watson's Bay, ii. 70
Weaver, ' Sunbeam's ' ship's cook,
wins rifle competition, i. 320
Webb, Mr. Justice, at Melbourne,
ii. 51
Wesleyans at Mount Morgan, ii.
113
West African Telegraph Company
station at Porto Praya, ii. 169
West Indian Regiment at Sierra
Leone, ii. 167, 168
West India Society, ii. 197
West Indies, trade with Bergen, i.
47 ; a cruise to the, in 1883 ;

INDEX

291

reasons for the cruise, 183 ;
Malta, 184, 185 ; Gibraltar, 185-
187 ; Madeira to Trinidad, 187-
189 ; hurricanes of the, 188 ; at
Trinidad, 190-192 ; description
of the West Indies, 192 ; Trini
dad to La Guayra,' 193-195 ; La
Guayra to Jamaica, 195-200 ;
the Church in the, 199 ; Jamaica
to Nassau, 200-204 ; a bargain
in pilotage, 201 ; the negroes of
the West Indies as boatmen,
203 ; Nassau to Bermuda, 205-
211 ; Bermuda to Plymouth,
211-215 ; statistics of the cruise,
215 ; advantages of sail for long
voyages, 215, 216 ; reflections on
the cruise, 216 ; our colonial
administration, 216 ; energy of
our colonists, 216, 217 ; tribute
to the Navy, 217 ; analysis of
the log and distances run, 217-
221 ; another trip to, in 1892 :
sea experiences, ii. 176, 177 ;
visit Barbados, 177-183 ; Trini
dad, 184-186 ; Grenada, 186-
190 ; government schemes for
benefit of natives, 189, 190 ; St
Vincent, 191 ; St. Lucia, 193
military stations in the West
Indies, 195 ; Jamaica, 195-202
the planters of the Indies, 197
198 ; Port Royal, 202 ; St. An
tonio, 203; Cuba, 204-207
Washington, 207-212 ; our posi
tion in the West Indies con
sidered, 213 ; necessity of naval
supremacy, 213 ; recent im
proved prosperity of the islands,
213 ; future development, 214 ;
uncultivated land in, 214, 215 ;

planters and peasant proprietors,
215 ; extension of self-govern
ment not advisable, 215, 216 ;
its various legislatures, 216 ; as
a field for British capital and
enterprise, 216, 217 ; unsuitable
for European settlers, 217 ; the
future of, under British rule, 218
West Indies (French), enterprise
of French proprietors in, ii. 217
Western Australia, i. 334 ; its
eucalyptus forests, 337-339;
labour and wages, 339, 340 ;
prospects, 340 ; climate and soil,
341 ; administration, 341, 342 ;
price of land, 342 ; defence, ii. 8
Weston, Miss, her interest in sea
men, ii. 60, 61
Wetmore mine (Michigan), i. 242
Whale-fishing at Faval, ii. 172
Wheelwright, Mr., and the Central
Argentine railway, i. 99, 100
Whitfield's Stores, Barbados, ii.
178
Whitehead torpedoes in Victoria,
ii. 46, 47, 49
Whitsunday Islands, ii. 123, 124
Whitsunday Passage, ii. 124, 125,
142
Wide Channel, i. 141
Wilkes, explorer, at the Paumotu
Group, i. 154
Wilkins, Colonel, designs Secre
tariat at Bombay, ii. 243
Williamstown, ii. - 35 ; torpedo
store, 48, 49 ; Sailors' Rest, 60 ;
docks, 67
Willis, Bishop, of Honolulu, i. 175
Wilson, Sir Samuel, and the great
hall at Melbourne University, ii.
65

292

INDEX

Wilson's Promontory, ii. 68
Wiltshire Regiment at Peshawur,
i. 265
Wind charts, value of Admiralty,
i 66, 67
Windward Islands, sale to natives
of Crown Lands, ii. 189
Wines, Cape, at Port Elizabeth, ii.
157
Winton, Sir Francis de, and the
Yonnies expedition, ii. 167
Wodehouse, Mr., British Commis
sioner at Honolulu, i. 176
Wood, Captain, his narrative of
early Spanish settlement at Fort
Famine, i. 131, 132
World, a cruise round the, in 1876-
1877 (' Nineteenth Century,'
1877-1878), i. 57 ; general out
line of the voyage, 57-63 ; the
' Sunbeam,' 63-65 ; weather,
navigation, lighthouses, nautical
instruments, sailing directions,
charts and other aids to naviga
tion, 65-67 ; revolving storms,
the progress of science of meteor
ology,- and the laws governing
daily atmospheric changes con
sidered, 68, 69; hardships of a
sailor's life : climatic changes,
heat and cold, 69, 70 ; the British
sailor, 70-73 ; visit to Madeira,
73, 74 ; Teneriffs, 74, 75 ; Rio
Janeiro, 76-97 ; the River Plate,
97-118 ; through the Straits of

Magellan, 119-149 ; across the
Pacific, 150-182
Wright, Captain, of Brisbane, ii.
105, 106
Wynberg, military cantonment
at, ii. 160
Xaviee, St. Feancis, the tomb of,
at Goa, i. 294
Yachting, international contest
between ' Galatea ' and ' May-
flower,'i. 232-236 ; steam, ii. 176
Yarra River, ii. 63, 64, 67
Yedo, Gulf of, i. 180, 181
Yellow fever at Rio de Janeiro,
i. 95, 96 ; precautions against, at
Sfc.Lucia, ii. 193 ; at Havana, 205
Yokohama, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 176,
181, 182
Yonnies, expedition against, ii. 167
Yorke, Cape (South Australia), ii.
20, 123
Yorke Island, ii. 146
Young, Mr., and the labour ques
tion in Western Australia, i. 339
Zach peninsula, i. 136
Zagazig, fresh-water canal at, i. 38
' Zealandia,' liner, i. 174
' Zealous,' H.M.S., accident to, in
the English Narrows, i. 147
Zubal, Straits of, i. 61
Zulus, and the Government of
Cape Colony, ii. 162, 164

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