YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY OK CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS; COMPREHENDINO DISTINCT NARRATIVES OF THEIR PERSGlSrAL ADVENTURES. BY THE REV. WILLIAM BINGLEY, M.A. F.L.S. Lateqf Peter-house, Cambridge, and Autlior of Animal Biography, Sit. Besigtutr for ti^e SSse of $onng ^sons. SECOND EDITION. LONDON: PRINTED FOR JOHN SHARPE, at laibs's DnboiiU Xibrai^, Xontlan JWnseum, ^iccatline. BY C. WHITTINGHAH, CH IS WICK. 1819. PREFACE. At the commencement of this volume the Author has inserted an account of the Travels of Ludovico Verthema. This may perhaps be con.sidered impro perly placed in a coUection which assumes the title of " Conversations on celebrated Travellers." The Audior confesses that it is so ; but he was unwilling to omit it, as it contains a description of some im portant places, in Mahometan countries, to which no professed Christian can have access. The present narratives are longer and more com prehensive than those of the Voyages; The in ducement to this was the circumstance of many of them being immediately connected with, and illustrating numerous historical facts. A similar inducement operated in the extension of some of the conversational parts of the volume. Indespd, the latter might, with advantage, have been rendered much more copious than they are, if this could a2 VI PREFACE. have been done without excluding other subjects of greater importance. In the selection of the Travels, the Author has chiefly been guided by the countries visited ; and he has been cautious not to insert the narratives of two travellers through the same part of a country. It will perhaps be remarked, that the orthogra phy, in many instances, differs from that in the ori ginal works. In the writings of the old travellers the names of places were often written very differ ently from what they are at present. For the niore convenient reference to modem maps, the modem orthography has consequently been adopted. It is intended that the present volume shall be followed by a volume of Biographical Conversations on " Eminent Characters of Antiquity;" after which the Voyages and Travels will, by t^vo addi tional volumes, be brought down to a later date. Charlotte Street, Bloomsbury, London, Dec, 1.5, 1818. INDEX OF THE TRAVELS, AND OF THE PRINCIPAL PLACES DESCRIBED. Page Verthbma> Ludovico 4 Travels from Damascus to Medina and Mecca, and thence through India. Medina, 8 — Mecca, 10 — Judda, Aden, Rodda, 13 — Or- mus, Herat, Sliiraz, 15 — Cambay, Madras, Bengal, 16, Roe, Sir Thomas 20 Journey to the Court of the Great Mogul. Snrat, 22 — Boorhandpoor, 22 — Cbitore, 23 — Ajmeer, 24 — Todabj 30— Mindia, 32. Whelee, Sir George 30 Travels in Greece. Island of St. Andre, Po]a, Zara in Dalmatia, 41 — Spalatro, 42 — Island of Corfu, 43 — Island of Zant^, 44 — Cerigo anciently Cythera, Islands of Milo and Paros, 45 — Tino, or Tenos, 46— Delos, 46, 72— Myconi, 48 — 1e- nedos, 49 — Ilium, or Troy, 49, 73 — Constantinople, 50 — Thyatira, 51 — Smyrna, Ephesus, 52 — Salona, Castri anciently Delphi, 55 — Castalian fountain, 55, 75 — Par nassus, 55— Lebadea, or Livadia, 56, 76— Cave of Tro- INDEX. Page phonius, 56, 76— Thebes, 57, 75— Athens, 57, 77- Mount Hymettus, 63— Island of Salamis, 64— Eleosis or Lepsina, Megara, 6S— Corinth, 67 — Basilico anci ently Sicyon, Mount Pentelicus, 68 — Marathon and its plain, 69— Lake of Livadia, 70— Mount CithaerOD, Mount Helicon, 71. MaUndbell, Rev. Henry 80 ) Travels in the Holy Land. Gebilee, or Gabala, 82 —Tripoli, 83 — Ibrahim Bassa, 84 — Sidon or Saide, Sarphan or Sarepta, 85 — Tyre, Acre, Mount Carmel, 86 — River Kislion, Plain of Esdraelon, Mounts Tabor and Hermon, 87 — Sebasta anciently Samaria, Neapolis anciently Sychem, Mounts Gerizini and Ebal, 88 — Jacob's Well, Jerusalem, 89 — -Valley of Jehosaphat, Bethany, Jericho, River Jordan, 95 — Dead Sed, 96— Valley of Rephaim, Bethlehem, 97— Wilder ness of St. John, -Valley of Elah, 98 — Jerusalem, 99, 108 — Mount of Olives, 101 — Giarden of Gethsemane, Mount Gihon, 103 — Nazareth, Mount Tabor, 104 — Damascus, 105. Bell, John 113 Journey from Petersburgh to Ispahan, Novgorod, -Vishnei 'Volotchok, 114 — Moscow, Kasimova, Kazan, 115 — Saratov, Astrachan, 116 — Shamachia, 117 — Tauris, Mount Tanrus, Cashan, 118 — Ispahan, 119. Journey from Petersburgh to Pekin. Kazan, Solikamsk, 123— Tobolsk, 124 — Tara, Tomsk, Irkoutsk, Lake Baikal, 155- Selinginsky, ia7 — Coun try of the Monguls, Chinese wall, 128— Pekin, 129, Norden, Frederic Lewis 144 Travels through I^pt and Nubia. Alexandria, Cleopatra's Needle, Pompey's Pillar 148 laO— Cleopatra's Canal, 149— Cairo,150—Geeza 'l5i— Pyramids, 152, 182— The Sphinx, 15 J, 179— Sakara INDEX, Page and Mummy Pits, 158, 159, 184 — Pyramids of Dasliour, 168 — Schechabade anciently Antinoe, Siut, 160 — Gii^e, 161 — ^Thebes, 163, 186 — Medenet Abu, Deme- graed anciently Crocodilopolis, Assuan, 165 — First Cataract of the Nile, 166— Second Cataract, Giesiret Ell HeiA, 170 — Assuan, 171 — Luxor, Tsehersche, 172. Kalm, Peter 190 Travels in North America. River- Delaware, 192 — Newcastle, Philadelphia, 193 — Wiltoiington, 195 — New Bristol, Burlington, Treilton, New Bnmswick, 196— New York, 197— Racoon. 198 — River Hiidson, 202— Albany, 203— River Mohawk, 204 — Fort Nicholson, Fort Anne, 205— River AVood- creek, 206 — ^Crown Point, or Fort St. Frederic, Lake Champlain, Fort St. John, 207 — Montreal, 208— River St Lawrence, Quebec,. 209 — Isle of Orleans, Bav St. Paul, 212. Hearne, Samuel 217 Joumiesfrom Prince cf Wales's Fort towards tlie Northern Ocean. Seal River, 220 — She-than-ee River, 225— Cathawhacaga River, Egg River, 231— Island Lake, 232— Partridge take, 233 — Whooldyah, or Pike Lake, Thelewey-aza- yeth Lake, 234 — Clowey Lake — Congecathawhacliaga River, 236— Stony Mountains, 237— Buflfalo, or Musk- ox Lake, Copper-mine River, 238 — Northern Ocean, 241 — Point Lake, No Name Lake, 242 — Athapuscow Lake, 243. Moore, Dr. John 250 Travels in France, Switzerland, and Germany. Lyons, Geneva, River Rlione, 254 — Bonneville, Close, ^allenche, Valley of Chamouni, 255 — Prieure, Montan- vert, Mont Blanc, Valley of Ice, 256 — The Glaciers, Pays de Vallais, 257- Martigny, Bex, 258— St. Gingo, Tonon, Convent of Ripaille, 259 — Lansanne, Vevay, Murat, 260— Berne, 261— Soleure, Basil, or Basle, index. Page 268— Strasbourg, Manheim, 263— Heidelberg, Mentz, Frankfort, 264^Cassel, 266— Wasenstein, Gottingen, Brunswick, 268— Hanover, Hemhausen, 269— Magde- turg, Brandenburg, Potsdam, 270— Berlin, 272— Drea- den, 275— Prague, 276— Vienna, 277— Presburg, Es- therbasie, 278 — Schonbrun, 279. Travels in Italy. Venice, 281— Padua, 288— River Po, Ferrara, 289— Bo logna, 290 — River Pisatello anciently the Rubicon, Pesaro, 291— Aucona, Loretto, 292— The Apennines, Foligno, 294— Spoleto, Rome, 295 — Gaeta, Capua, 300 — Naples, Portici, 301— Herculaneum and Pom- peia. Mount Vesuvius, 302 — Pausilippo, 305 — Grotto del Cane, Puzzoli, 306— Tivoli, 307— Frescati, Florence, 308— Parma, Placentia, Milan, 309— Turin, 310. Swinburne, Henry 318 ( Travels in Spain. Perpignan, the Pyrennees, 319 — Figueras, Gerona,320 — Barcelona, 321 — Montserrat, 322 — Tarragona, Reus, 325 — Tortosa, Benicarlo, 326 — Castillon, Mnrviedro, 327— Valencia, 328— lake of Albufera, Xativa, Ali- cant, 331 — Elche, 332 — Murcia, Carthagena, 333— Grenada, 334 — Anteqnera, Malaga, 336 — Xeres,337 — Cadiz, 338— Gibraltar, Seville, 340— Cordova, 342— La Mancha, 344 — Toledo, Madrid, 345 — ^Aranjuez, 346— Escurial, 349— St. Rdefonso, Segovia, 350— Val- ladolid, Burgos, 351— Alava, Vittoria, 353. WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY THE SAME AUTHOR, BIOGRAPHICAL CONVERSATIONS, on tbe most eminent and instructive British Cha racters ; interspersed with numerous Anecdotes, illustrative of their Lives and Actions, and of the Times in which they hved. Second Edition. One 'Volume 12mo. price Six Shillings in Boards. BIOGRAPHICAL CONVERSATIONS, on the most eminent 'Voyagers, of different Nations; comprehending distinct Narratives of their personal Adventures. One "Volume 12mo. price Six Shillings and Sixpence. ANIMAL BIOGRAPHY; or. Popular ZooLOG-y, comprising Authentic Anecdotes of the Economy, Habits of Life, Instincts, and Sagacity, of the Animal Creation. Fourth Edition. Three Volumes 8vo. closely printed, price One Pound Sixteen Shillings. Character of this Work fram the Monthly Review for*Ociober, 1803.—" We would recommend his (Mr. Bingley'.s) volumes to those professed naturalists who may be desirous of revising, in an easy and methodical manner, some of the most interesting results of their former investigations; — to the student, who is now enabled, with no great expenditure of either time or trouble. Works recently published by tfie same Author. to trace at once the outline of a great department of the Lin- naean system, and to treasure in his mind many of the curious facts connected with the history of animal creation; — to the philosopher, who loves to speculate on the constitution and con duct of organized beings; — and even to hira who, without having it in his power to i pursue any fixed plan of study, can oc casionaUy devote an hour or two to rational recreation. From the perusal of these anecdotes, the young of both sexes may reap much entertainment and instruction, without encountering a single passage which can alarm modesty, or wound those pure and sim ple feelings which constitute tlie ornament and comfort of our condition." See also tbe British Critic, Annual and Anti-Jacobin Reviews for the same year. USEFUL KNOWLEDGE; or, a familiar and explanatory Account of the various Productions of Nature, Mineral,. Vegetable, and Amimal; which are chiefly employed for the Use of Man. Illustrated by nearly Two Hundred Figures; and intended as a "Work both of Instruction and Reference. Second Edi tion,, with entirely new Plates. Three Volumes 12mo. Price One Guinea. " As a compendium of accurate information upon every sub ject connected with' the. mineral, vegetable, and animal king doms, we have not seen a more useful publication than tfaiSL " To the library of the young, these volumes will be a most desirable addition." British Critic for Sept. 1817. " There is, we are persuaded, no class of readers to whom this book will not be both amusing and instructive. To those who have akeady studied the subjects in larger works it will serve to recal the particulars which are most interesting, and may be ad vantageously employed as a book of reference. Those", on tlie other hand, who have not entered upon such inquiries, will find a great deal to gratify their curiosity, conveyed in an agreeable manner. " To young persons, especially young ladies, who have seldom an opportunity of studying large systems of natural history, we should particularly recommend this work. Edinburgh MaeaziM for May, 1817. * ^ ON CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. The Persons present : Sir Charles Irwin, Baronet; resident at Seaford Castle, on the coast of Devonshire. Lady Irwin. Ed.mcnd Irwin, aged seventeen; their son. Louisa, aged sixteen, ^ Daughters of Sir Charles and Lady Maria, aged twelve, j Irwin. Frederic Montagu, aged eighteen; a nephew of Sir Charles, and on a visit at his house. Rev. Alfred Allen, tutor to Frederic Montagu. FIRST EVENING. INTRODUCTION. Frederic Montagu. We are now prepared for commencing the discussions relative to eminent Travellers ; and the entertainment and instruction that Edmund and I have derived from this preparation have been very great. I Edmund. In reading the travels of Ludovico Ver thema, and of our own countryman, Sir Thomas Roe, the latter of which I yesterday concluded, I could almost have imagined myself in company with them, during their journies. Teav. b 2 INTRODUCTION. Sir Charles. And in this you have had a considerable advaijtage over them. You have thus, as it were, sat comfortably in your study to travel ; but Ihey under went great fatigue and inconvenience, and incurred much expense. You, in the course of a few days, have obt^ned such knowledge as they had to communicate; and they experienced innumerable difficulties and dan gers, and passed many years in the acquirement of it. Frederic. This may, in some degree, be true, sir; but I have never been able so far to deceive myself, as not to prefer the making ofa journey, notwithstanding all the inconveniences attending it, to reading the ac count of one. Indeed I have an anxious desire to view the world for myself, and not to trust, for my know ledge of it, to the observations and the experience of others. Mr. Allen. If this desire, Frederic, be not founded in mere curiosity : if you propose to yourself from it any real advantage, it is very comiiiendable. Travel ling has a tendency lo wean us from prejudices, to im prove our judgment, to refine our taste, and furnish us with various kinds of useful kno-wledge. But many important advantages may be derived from perusing the writings of travellers. They constitute an agree able medium between works of mere amusement, and those of abstract literature. They afford to the studious a pleasing relaxation from severer pursuits ; they entice the philosopher and the moralist from solitary and deep reflection, to the observation of manners and customs diversified with every changing climate ; they amuse the mind, without any degradation from its dignify; and exhibit a picture, in the contemplation of which the most fastidious may be usefully exercised, and the most accomplished be essentially improved. Lady Irwin. I know no works of amusement what ever that seem better adapted to the study of young persons, than books of travels judiciously drawn up. They satisfy that eager thirst after knowledge, which is found very strong in youth ; and, in general they INTRODUCTION. 3 contain nothing that can corrupt their imaginations. They interest the mind as much as a novel ; and, in stead of rendering it effeminate, or undermining its principles, they make it usefully inquisitive, and furnish it with important subjects fbr reflection. Mr. Allen. Your opinion. Lady Irwin, is precisely that of Dr. Knox, as he has stated it in his Moral Essays ; and he observes further, that any book, which innocently delights the young mind, is, at the same time, much more improving than the best books written too profoundly or too seriously to be capable of attract ing juvenile attention. Louisa. I am sure there can be few readers who do not, with peculiar interest and avidity, take up an authentic book of travels. Frederic. It is well that my cousin confines her .com mendation to authentic books of travels ; for I fear many travels have been published, in which the au thenticity is, at least, very doubtful. A traveller in an undescribed region has few persons who can either contradict or controvert his account ; and there is at least a strong temptation to assume the novehst, and to state, as facts, circumstances that never have occurred, to render his book the more attractive. Mr. Allen. A man of honour and integrity would detest a procedure so mean as this. Edmund. But, sir, even matters of fact may be much perverted; they maybe unintentionally misrepresented, or, from inadvertence or a want of due Inquiry, may be misstated. Lady Irwin. Of this we have convincing proof when we read the observations that are made by foreigners on the customs and manners of our own country. I have often smiled at the errors I have detected in th^ir accounts ; and when they peruse the remarks of Eng lishmen in. their countries, they have doubtless cause ito pay us a similar compliment. Travellers ought to be both cautious and diffident in the remarks they com- b2 4 travellers. mit to writing, especially when these are made for the purpose of publication. Sir Charles. I am somewhat inclined to admire tbe modesty of Thomas Coryate, an eccentric Englisfaman, who, two centuries ago, rambled through Greece, Turkey, Syria, Egypt, and Persia : he entitled his travels " Crudities hastily gobbled up." I do not com mend the .obsolete quaintness of the phrase; but it certainly does not ill describe the productions of many a modern traveller. Almost every one who travek faincies he can state what has not before been noticed : that the observations he has made, the anecdotes he has collected, and the adventures on which he has stumbled, deserve also to be recorded. Hence, and from the taste which is prevalent for reading books of travek, if has occurred, that many inaccurate and uninteresting productions of this description have at different times issued from the press. But we are wandering from our subject. Edmund spoke of Ludovico VERXHEja a : is he to occupy our attention this evening] Edmund. He is, sir ; but in introducing the account of him, I find myself under considerable difficulty. ^iV Charles. How so, Edmund ? Edmund. Because I have not been able to discover any biographical information of importance respecting him. Lady Irwin. What can have induced you to adopt the travels of such a man, in preference to those of others, the lives of whose authors you might easily have had access to ? Edmund. Because I found in them much curious in formation which I should have been sorry to omit; and which, 1 hope, will compensate the want of the biography. Sir Charles. Suppose you begin : perhaps some facts relative to the writer may be elicited in the course of the discussion. VERTHEMA. 5 Edmund. From the history of his travels, which was originally published in Italian, and afterwards translated into English, and printed in the year 1576, we learn that Verthema was a native of Rome. Frederic. In the short account that he has given of himself, there seems to be some confusion. Edmund. We are able, however, to collect from it, that, very early in life, he entertained an ardent desire to visit such parts of the world as had then been little explored by Europeans. When but fifteen years of age he embarked in a merchant ship, and sailed from Venice to Egypt ; but his curiosity was dearly purchased, for after his arrival in Egypt, he was taken by the Ma hometans, and was sent a prisoner from Alexandria to Cairo. At the latter place he was compelled to em brace the Mahometan religion ; and was admitted into the band of Mamelukes, a celebrated military order, composed of such Christians, as had forsaken the true faith, to serve the Turks. ." Mi: Allen. This may be Verthema's statement ; but other writers are of opinion that the Mamelukes had originally been Turkish and Circassian slaves, who were brought into Egypt many centuries ago ; and who, liavJng been bred to arms, afterwards attained great power in that country. — But proceed with your account of Verthema* Edmund. From Cairo he returned, sometime after wards, to Alexandria ; and thence sailed, in a Turkish vessel, to Bairout, (or Berynto, as he calls it), a small town on the coast of Syria. Departing thence, he went first to Tripoli, and afterwards to Aleppo. He sub sequently proceeded to Damascus, where he resided a considerable time, and where he acquired a know ledge of some of the eastern languages. Whilst at Damascus he formed the design of making a pilgrimage to Mecca. Louisa. What were his objects in this pilgrimage ? Edmund. First, that he might visit some places, and witness some ceremonies to which, as a Christian, it 0 verthema's would have been impossible for him fro have had access ; and afterwards, if opportunity occurred, that he might escape to some European settlement, and thence return to his own country. Maria. Why do the Mahometans make pilgrimages to Mecca? Edmund. Because that was the birth-place of Ma homet, and, as such, is esteemed by the Mahometans peculiarly sacred. Lady Irwin. In reading the early written accounts of travels, I have often been much perplexed to ascertain the preserit names of the places of which they speak ; permit me to ask whether Verthema's work be correct in this particular? Edmund. His orthography is extremely incorrect, not only as it relates to places, but also to persons and things. To avoid confusion in the narrative that I have drawn up, I have endeavoured to supply this defect, by writing the names according to the present practice of Europeans. Edmund read his narrative as follows :^- The Travels of LvDOVico VEEXHEMA/rojn Damascus to Medina and Mecca, and thence through India. In the beginning of April, 1503, Verthema hired a certain number of camels for the purpose of accom panying a caravan that was about to proceed from Damascus to Mecca. Being ignorant of the customs of th^ people with whom he was to travel, he particularly attached himself to a Mameluke captain, one of the party. From this person he obtained every informa tion that was requisite previously to his setting out; and he paid to him a sum of money sufficient tor tbe expenses of the journey. He was clad in the habit of a Mameluke. On the third day after their departure, the caravan, with the whole company of travellers, merchants, and pilgrims, came to a place called Mezaribe, or Mezaris ; TRAVELS TO MEDINA. 7 here they continued three days, that the merchants might provide all the things that were requisite for their future journey. When tiiey left Mezaribe, the caravan consisted of 40,000 men, with 35,000 camels, aud a guard of 60 Mameluke soldiers. They continued their journey till the twenty-second hour of the day, aud then baited, at an appointed signal from the com mander. The camels were unloaded, and two hours were allowed for rest and refreshment. As soon as this time was expired, another signal was made; the camels were reloaded, aud the caravan resumed its march. The second day's journey, like the first, was continued all day and night, from sun-rise to the twenty-second hour ; and this was the constant and regular arrange ment. The camels were fed with small barley loaves unbaked; and every eighth day, if wells or cisterns could not be found, water was procured by digging into tbe ground or sand. After every eighth day also they rested two days, that the camels and horses might re cover their strength. So extremely valuable is water in the sandy deserts through which the caravan had to pass, that, at almost every resting-place where there was water, they were obliged to defend themselves against the attack of vast numbers of Arabs who frequented the same places. Verthema speaks in high terms of the bravery of the small Mameluke gnard which accompanied the caravan. Of the expertness of these troops he mentions two in stances that occured during the journey. A Mameluke placed an apple on the head of his servant, and, at the distance of twelve or fourteen paces, struck it off with a spear, without iBJuring tbe man; and anolher, whilst riding at full speed, took the saddle from his horse, and carried it for some time on his head ; he then put it again on the horse and fastened it, without In the least checking the pace of the animal. At the end of twelve days the caravan arrived at the M VERTHEMA .S Valley of Sodom and Gomorrah, where some extensive ruins still existed. These, as Verthema was informed, were the remains of the ancient cities ; and he describes them to have been in a dry, barren, and unwholesome region. Great inconvenience was now suffiered by the caravan, from want of water. Shortly after their de parture from this place thirty men perished in conse quence of excessive thirst; and many others were overwhelmed and destroyed by the sand. At length water was found, at the foot ofa little hUI, and the caravan halted there. Early on the ensuing morning they were attacked by several thousand Arabs, who demanded money in payment for the water that had been taken. This was refused, and the cardvan being assembled on the mountain, the camels arranged around as a bulwark, and all the merchants and their goods being placed in the centre, a battle, which con tinued two days, was fought with the Arabs, Ijt was then agreed to pay them twelve hundred pieces of gold; but on receiving these they demanded a much larger sum. The commander of the caravan determined to resist so unreasonable an exaction, and gave peremptory orders that every man in his company capable of bear* ing arms should prepare for renewing the battle. The light was recommenced, and the Arabs were conipletelji routed, with a loss of one thousand five hundred men. After the victory the march of the caravan was con tinued until they arrived at a mountain, at the foot of which flowed an abundant stream of water. Here they loaded sixteen thousand of the camels with water. In a small grove, of seven or eight thorn-trees, near the stream, they found a pair of turtle-doves ; these they considered a great rarity, as hitherto, since their de parture from Damascus, "they had not seen either beast or bird. At the end df two days' journey from this mountain they came within sight of Medina, the city in which Mahomet was buried. The caravan halted at a well about four miles from Medina : there they re» TRAVELS TO MEDINA. .9 mained a whole day that the company might wash themselves, and put on clean apparel to appear deceiitly in the city. Medina contained at this time about three hundred houses of stone or brick; it was well peopled, and surrounded by bulwarks of earth. The soil of the ad jacent country was extremely barren, except at one spot, distant about two miles from the city, where there was a garden and about fifty date trees. Verthema says, that, during his residence in Medina, he had an opportunity of refuting the vulgar opinion, that the tomb, or coffin, of Mahomet hangs suspended in the air without support. He and some of his com panions were conducted to the mosque iu which that pretended prophet had been buried. It was a temple, consisting of three aisles, supported by four hundred columns formed of white bricks, and illuminated by more than three thousand lamps. In a chapel within tlie mosque was the tomb of the prophet. This was a kind of tower, about five paces iu circumference, arched on every side, and covered with a large silken canopy. The latter was supported by an upright grate of copper, curiously wrought, which extended all round, and was about two paces distant from the tomb ; this, consiequently, could only be viewed by the pilgrims through the grate. On each side of the entrance to the chapel of the tomb were shelves, on which were arranged several manuscript volumes, containing tradi tionary accounts of Mahomet and his principal asso ciates. In the evening of the day in which Verthema and his companions had visited the mosque, they were astonished by ten or twelve elders of the city entering tlie encamp ments of the caravan, running about like madmen, and exclaiming, " Mahomet, the apostle of God, shall rise again! prophet of God, thou shalt rise again! ?God have mercy flpon us !'' Alarmed at the noise, the cap tain of the caravan, and ail who were capable of bear ing arms, seized their weapons in haste, suspecting that b3 10 verthema's the Arabs had made a descent upon them. The reason of this outcry was demanded : the elders replied, that a light had been seen to shine from the sepulchi'e.of the prophet. This imposition enraged all the Mame lukes, who soon ascertained that the pretended miracu lous Hght was occasioned by a flame made by the priests in the open part of the tomb, for the purpose of de ceiving the strangers by a fictitious miracle. The caravan remained near Medina three days, that both the men and camels might be rested and re freshed. After this, having procured a guide to direct their passage across the great desert, they resumed their journey. They now proceeded towards the west, over an extensive plain covered with sand, as light and almost as white as flour. In these deserts, if tihe wind blow in opposition to the course of the traveller,- he is in the utmost danger of being overwhelmed by tbe drifted sand. Many also perish by thirst, and many others by drinking with too much avidity after tbey have discovered wajter. In about eleven days after the commencement of their journey from Medina, and after having had twice to contend with large troops of Arabs, the traveUers, on the 18th of May, arrived "at Mecca. Here tbey ¦found the country in great confusion, in consequence of a civil war which raged betwixt two principal fami lies of that part of Arabia, who were contending for the possession of the kingdom of Mecca. The city was populous and well built, of circular form, and contained about six thousand houses, some of which were of considerable magnificence. It had neither walls nor fortifications, and was immediately surrounded by mountains. Mecca was at this time under the dominion of a sultan, one of four brethren, said to have been immediate descendants of Mahomet The plain on which it had been built was appat«ntly ~a barren and desolate spot. On the arrival of the travellers they found here another extensive caravan which had arrived eight days before them from Mem- TRAVELS TO MECCA. 11 phis. There were also a prodigious number of strangers and pilgrims from other parts of the world; some from Syria, others from Persia, and others from distant parts of India. These chiefly had resorted hither either for the purpose of trade, or to obtain the pardon of their sins by discharging a vow of pilgrimage. Verthema continued at Mecca twenty days, during which time he had an opportunity of informing himself concerning numerous particulars relative to the place. In the middle of the city he says there was a vaulted mosque built of bricks, and shaped like an amphitheatre. It had ninety or a hundred doors, and was entered on every side by a descent of twelve steps. In its porch was a mart for jewels and precious stones. All the walls of the entrance were gilded in the most splendid manner imaginable. Under the arches, ih the lower part of the mosque, were collected as many as five or six thousand men, who dealt solely in sweet ointments and perfumes, but particularly in an odoriferous pow der, which was used for the embalming of dead bodies. At this place perfumes of every kind were purchased for exportation to all the Mahometan countries. In ^le centre of the mosque stood a small kind of turret about six feet high, and huug round with silken tapestry. This turret had a gate formed of silver, on each side of which were vessels filled with precious balsam. As, on tbe 23d of May, in every year, pardons were distributed in this mosque to the devotees of the prophet, great multitudes of people entered the mosque even before day-light of the preceding day. They first walked seven times round the sacred turret, every cor ner of which they devoutly kissed, and < frequently handled. Ten or twelve yards from this turret was another, with three or four doors, and within which was a well of great depth. At this well eight men were stationed to draw water for the multitude. "After the pilgrims had seven times walked round the first turret, they came to the well, and, each of them touch ing the mouth or brim, said these words : " Be it to 12 verthema's the honour of God, and may God pardon my sins." The persons who drew tJje water, then poured three buckets full on the head of every one who stood round the well, washing or wetting him all over. Afterwards the pilgrims who had undergone this ab lution imagined their sins to be forgiven. As soon as the ceremony was ended, the pilgrims went into one of the mountains adjacent to the city, and there performed sacrifice to the prophet Abraham. Verthema says, that those who were able to afford it killed sometimes three, four, or more, sheep each ; so that, in a single sacrifice, he saw three thousand sheep slain. The bodies of these were distributed among the poor; and they, having dug long trenches in the fields around Mecca, made fires with dried camels' dung, and cooked the sacrificial flfish as food. While be was at Mecca, Verthema saw prodigious numbers of pigeons. These the Mahometans pretended were all derived from the dove which spoke into the ear of Mahomet : it was esteemed a capital crime to kill or even to injure them; aud there were certain funds at the great mosque assigned for feeding them. Verthema, finding his situation among the Mame lukes extremely uncomfortable, was desirous, if possible,- to escape privately frond Mecca. One day, while he was in the market, making some purchases for the com mander of the caravan, a Mameluke captain, who l)e- lieved him to be a Christian, inquired of him whether he were so or not ? Verthema replied, that he was a Mahometan. The Mameluke then addressed him in the Italian language, affirming, that he was quite certain he was not a faithful disciple of Mahomet : Verthema, fearful of revealing his true sentiments, confessed him self a native of Rome, but declared ibat he had become a Mahometan in Egypt, and had there been enrolled among the Mamelukes. The stranger being thus de ceived, and believing hira an enemy to the Christians, treated him in a friendly aud confidential manner. He concealed him, during many days, iu his house, and tlien TRAVELS THROUGH INDIA. 13 contrived his escape from the caravan that he had hitherto accompanied, and eftiected his junction with another caravan, which «as about to proceed from Mecca to India. It had been Verthrnia's particular wish to join this caravan, from a hope that he should be enabled, if he arrived in India, lo escape to the Portuguese settlements, and thus facilitate his return to Europe, On the second day after Verthema, with the caravan to India, had left Mecca, he arrived at .hidda, a port town on the eastern bank of thp Red Sea. This was a place of great resort for merchants of every country; but the inhabitants were all Mahometans. After having continued here fifteen days, he left ihe caravan, and agreed with the commander of one of the vessels then in the harbour to convey him to Persia. In this vessel, after having passed Ihe Strait of Babelmandeb, he arrived at Aden, a fortified city in Arabia Felix, the principal mart to which merchants resorted from India, Ethiopia, Persia, and the Red sea. On the day after he had landed, he was seized, thrown into prison, and carried before the council, on suspicion that he was a, Portuguese spy, in the disguise ofa Mahometan. After this he was kept in prison fifty-five days; and then, though still in irons, being placed on the back of a camel, he was conveyed to the sultan, who was resident at Rodda, a city eight days' journey from Aden, and in the interior of the country. On being brought before the sultan, and asked who he was, he replied, that he was a native of Rome, who had professed himself a Mahometan and Mameluke at Cairo; that, from motives of religion, and in discharge ofa vow, he had made the pilgrimage to Medina,^ to the tomb of the prophet ; and (he hypocritically added) that, having heard, in all the countries and cities through which he had passed, of the greatness, wisdom, and virtues of the sultan of Rodda, he had continued hi« travels to his dominions from an anxious desire to be hold his face. Verthema then gave thanks to Mahomet, 14 verthema's that he had attained this wish, trusting that the wisdom and justice of the sultan would be convinced that he was no Christian spy, but a true Mahometan, and his devoted slave. This hypocrisy did not, however, an swer his purpose. The sultan directed him to be com mitted to prison, where he was kept for three months, and was allowed, for his daily subsistence, only a small loaf of millet bread, and a little water. In the apartment of the prison that had been allotted to Verthema, two other men were confined. Man; consultations, and much discussion took place as to the manner in which it was probable they might benefit each other. At length it was agreed that one of them should feign himself to be insane, under a hope that some advantage might be derived from such a stratagem, as in this country idiots have a pecuUar character for sanctity, and possess many important privileges. It was arranged that Verthema should act the madman. This he did ; but, for the first three days, be was so much fatigued with the exertions he made, that his whole strength was nearly exhausted. He, however, acted his part so well, that, after a while, he was per mitted occasionally to walk out of the prison. His ap pearance and conduct soon attracted the attention of one of the sultan's wives, who resided in a palace, from certain apartments of which she bad a view into the court of the prison. This person took great pleasure in beholding Verthema from her windows. The go vernor of the city, observing the sultana much delighted with him, gave orders that, in the day time, he might be permitted to range at liberty in the palace. He thus obtained access to the sultana. One day he seized an opportunity of telling her that he had made a vow to Mahomet that he would visit a certain holy person who lived at Aden ; and he entreated her interference, that he might be enabled to perform his vow. She im mediately gave orders that a camel and a purse of gold should be given to him. Verthema set oft". At the end of eight days he arrived at Aden : be visited the man TRAVELS through INDIA. 15 whom he had been told was reputed a saint ; and after wards pretended that he had recovered his health in consequence of a miracle wrought upon hira by this holy person. While at Aden he secretly contrived to agree yvith the captain of a ship to convey him thence to India ; and he obtained further permission from the sultana, on various pretences, to continue absent from the place of his confinement for some time longer. He travelled through various parts of the adjacent country, to avoid suspicion, while the vessel was in preparation to sail ; and at length was enabled to embark. The vessel was first bound to Persia, freighted with a kind of red earth which was used in dying. After she had sailed six days, a sudden storm came on, which compelled the captain to seek for shelter in a port on the coast of Ethiopia. Here he remained five days, till the storm had subsided, and then proceeded on his voyage to Ormus, an island near the mouth of the Persian Gulf. Near this island Verthema says there was at that time an extensive pearl fishery ; and, at the principal town of the island, no fewer than four hundred merchants and factors resided, who traded in silks, pearls, precious stones, and other commodities. Although there is much confusion in Verthema's ac count of his travels through Persia, we collect, from his narrative, that he visited the city of Herat. He de scribes the whole district around this city as in the highest degree fertile and luxuriant. He particularly speaks of the growth of a great abundance of corn ; and of the entensive production of silk and rhubarb. At Shiraz he states, that there was a considerable trade in precious stones, and particularly in turquoises. He saw there a great quantity of musk, which he calls casto- reum, and which in this country was an important article of traffic. While he was at Shiraz, he met with a Persian merchant to whom he had been known, in the preceding year, when at Mecca. In answer to the in quiries of tbe Persian respecting the cause of his being in this distant country, Verthema rephed, that he had 10 verthema's come thither from a desire to see the worldi The Per sian rejoiced at this ardent curiosity, and induced Verthema to engage in his service, and to aecoippany him in liis journies through several eastern countries. With this person he, after some time, sailed from Ormus to India. They arrived at Cambay, a town of India, situated at the bottom of Ihe gulf of that name. The inhabitants, he says, were neither Mahometans nor idolaters : they deemed it unlawful to deprive any creature of hfe, and consequently never ate flesh. The journey of Verthema from this place contains little that is interesting or important. He states, that he passed through Chaul, Dabul, Goa, Onore, Canore, Calicut, Cochin, and Coulan, -all ou the western coast of the peninsula of Hindoostan ; but as he doe.s little more than speak of the places, without any personal narrative, more than his occasionally menlioning the length of his journies, it is at least possible he may not have visited the places himself, and may have collected his accounts of them from other persons. He next asserts, that he sailed round Cape Comorin, and passed the island of Ceylon, to what he calls the city of Coro- mandel. At this city, which was probably Madras, he says he conversed with many Christians, «ho affirmed, that the body of St. Thomas the .Apostle had been buried at a place about twelve miles distant, where many Christians still resided. Verthema, in company with his Persian friend, pro ceeded to Pullicut, and afterwards sailed to Bengal. Here, he says, they met with some Christian merchants, and accompanied them to Pegu. At this place the Persian was introduced to the king, who, in exchange for two large branches of coral, gave him two hundred rubies, all of great size and value. From Pegu they sailed towards the Strai/s of Malacca, and successively visited the islands of Sumatra, Banda, Borneo, and Java ; whence, he says, they relumed, by the Straits of Malacca, first to Coromandel, and afterwards to Coulan. travels through INDIA. 17 Here Verthema found several Portuguese Christians. Fearing that he might be seized as a spy, he began to consider how he could effect his escape from this place. But as there were many Mahometans at Coulan, who knew that he had been on a pilgrimage to Mecca, he changed his purpose, and accompanied his former com panion to Calicut. Not long after this, however, he contrived his escape to a Portuguese fortress near Cana- nore ; and thence he sailed in the Portuguese fleet, which left that country on the 7th of December, 1508. Passing through the Mesambique Channel, and round the Cape of Good Hope, with this fleet, he, after a few months, arrived at Lisbon. He continued some time in Portugal, and then returned to Rome. Mr. Allen. I think Verthema has given some account of his receptioti in Portugal. Wh-dt does he say of himself whilst in that country ? Edmund. That after his arrival he was conducted into the presence of the king, whose hand he had the honour to kiss, .and to whom he was invited to relate the principal part of his adventures. The king appears to have entertained him very graciously. Verthema had been knighted by the Portuguese viceroy in India, and his patent of knighthood was on this occasion con firmed. Frederic. I admire the caution of my friend Edmund in his abstract of these travels. When I read them I discovered some circumstances which led me to suppose that the author had, iu more than one in stance, had recourse to invention. But Edmund has carefully omitted all the parts that might have ex cited suspicion as to the general authenticity of the work. Edmund. The compression that was requisite for my short narrative, has been the sole cause of my omit ting any thing that could have been considered, im portant. It has occasioned me even to omit many interesting observations respecting the countries, peo- 18 verthema's ' pie, manners, customs, and commerce of the East at this very early period. But I should be glad to know what are the particular circumstances to which Frederic alludes. Frederic. In the first place Verthema speaks of baring seen at Rodda, in Arabia, two unicorns. He says that they were like oxen, of bright red colour, and had each a horn, about a span long, in the middle of his fore head. Now this kind of unicorn has long been consi dered a fabulous beast, and therefore his account of such animals is a mere invention. Mr. Allen. My dear Frederic, your conclusion is a very hasty and a very incorrect one. " Because the nnicorn has been considered a fabulous beast, there fore the account given by Verthema of such animak is a mere invention" — this is a mode of reasoning which I am sure you never learnt from me. The existence of such unicorns as are bere described has certainly been doubted; and it has been supposed that the kind of unicorns alluded to in the sacred writifigs were the rhinoceros. You have seen a rhinoceros, and know what a heavy and unwieldly animal it is. Now do you think the following note of the Psalmist could at all be applicable to it — " He maketh them also to skip Uke a calf; Lebanon and Sirion like a young unicorn?" Frederic, I must confess that the rhinoceros does not appear a peculiarly lively animal. But, sir, if such creatures as Verthema alludes to did exist, they must, in the course of many centuries, have been seen by some other travellers than him. Mr. Allen. Here again your conclusion is not cor rect. The probabUity that they would have been seen by other persons I admit ; but the wildness of their nature, and their indocile habits, may have confined them to those immense and desolate regions of the east, into which no traveller lias hitherto been able to pene trate. A late traveller, however, had some evidence of the existence of such animals, for he found rude sketches of them cut upon a rock in the interior of Africa. TRAVELS through INDIA, 19 Frederic. But, sir, this is not the only particular in which I was led to suspect the veracity of Verthema. The account of his travels through Persia, and also through some parts of India, is scarcely comprehensible. But what he states respecting the sultan of Cambay is an evident falsehood. Such, he pretends, is the poisonous nature of this extraordinary sultan, that when a criminal is sentenced to death, the sultan spits upon him, and " he dies within half an hour afterwards." Mr. Allen. As to any confusion that may occur in the account of the travels of Verthema, this is certainly excusable, as it was impossible he could have kept any notes or journal of them during his progress ; and the geography of the countries through which he passed was at that time very imperfectly known. As to the Sultan of Cambay, I am surprised that you should not immediately have perceived the account that has been given to have been only an eastern metaphor expressive of bis tyranny, and of the rapidity with which he caused the executiou of a criminal to follow his condemnation. Louisa. There is one circumstance in the narrative that ray brother has read which has very much sur prised me: I allude to the discovery of Christians near Madras, in a part of the country so far distant from the Holy Land, and so surrounded, as I imagined, by Mahometans and heathens, that I am equally perplexed to imagine how St. Thomas could have ori-inally pene trated into such a distant region, and Iiow his followers, without a miraculous interference of Providence, could have there preserved themselves from destruction. Mr. Allen. This is certdinly a very surprising fact, but it is a well authenticated one. \Vhen the Portu guese navigators, in 1503, first arrived on the eoast of Malabar, they were astonished to find there upwards of a hundred Christian churches. These Christi|tns pos sessed copies of the Scriptures, and performed their service in the Syriac language; and descendants of them still exist in the same country. Lady Irwin remarked, that, in Dr. Buchanan's 20 TRAVELLERS. " Christian Researches in Asia," she had read, witb peculiar satisfaction, an interesting account of some conferences which that gentleman had had with these descendants of the Syriac Christians. After this, the conversation became general ; and Ed- . mund Irwin, having informed the party that no facts in the life of Verthema had been recorded, subsequent to his arrival in Rome from Lisbon, they separated. The young persons went to their respective amusements, and Sir Charles, Lady Irwin, and Mr. AUeii, passed the re mainder of the evening in social conversation. SECOND EVENING. Frederic. I shall this evening propose fbr our notice the travels of Sir Thomas Roe, who was ambassador from King James the First to the court of the Great Mogul, and subsequently to that of the Grand Seignior. They appear to me not only equaUy interesting with. those of Verthema, but more authentic. Lady Irwin. M^ho was he, Frederic?' Frederic. The grandson of Sir Thomas Roe, lord mayor of London, in 1568, and the son of a gentleman of fortune who resided at Low Layton, in Essex. He was born at Layton about the year 1580. Lady Irwin. Where was he educated ? Frederic. We are not informed respecting either the place or the circumstances of his school education; but, when he was about thirteen years of age, he was admitted a commoner of Magdalen College, Oxford. Edmund. He was so; but he did not continue in the university more than a year or two before he was en tered a member of one of the inns of court in London. After this he went to France. Frederic. About the latter end of the reign of Queen EUzabeth, he obtained au office in the English court; and he must have been in considerable favour, for in SIR THOMAS ROE. -21 the first year of the reign of her successor. King James the First, he received the honour of knighthood, though he does not appear to have been at that time more than twenty-four years of age. Ltidy Irwin. If I am not mistaken, the travels of Sir Thomas Roe that have been published were those to the court of the Great Mogul. Frederic. They were so; but his mission to that court was not the first enterprise on which he was em ployed. In 1609 he was engaged in an expedition fitted out for the purpose of making discoveries in America. He sailed from Plymouth on the 24th of February; and, about two months afterwards, entered the great river of Amazons, of which he was the first discoverer. He proceeded up this river in his ship about two hundred miles, and in boats near a hundred miles further, and made several journies into the coun try. After his return to the ocean, he sailed along the American coast, and entered several other rivers in boats and canoes ; and, at the end of thirteen months, during which he experienced many dangers, and under went much fatigue, he set out on his return to England, and landed at the Isle of Wight in the month of July, 161 1 . Not long after this the court of committees or directors of the English East India Company had re ceived such information relative to the countries in which they were concerned, as to induce them fo apply to King James for the appointment of an ambassador to the court of the Shah Jehanguire, the Great Mogul. The king, in compliance with their request, granted his commission to Sir Thomas Roe to proceed to that court. Louisa. What was the object of this mission ? Frederic. To conclude a treaty of peace and amity betwixt the Mogul and the king of England ; "to esta blish a commercial intercourse, and to settle factories for the English merchants, both at the sea-port and the inland towns within the dominions of the Mogul. Sir Charles. It is much to be regretted that the ac- 32 SIR THOMAS roe's ccount which has been transmitted to us of this expe dition of Sir Thomas Roe should be very imperfect. Frederic. There are two editions of it ; but both are extremely confused and defective, and only abridg ments of the original journal. One of them was pub- lished in an old collection of travels, entitled " Purchas's Pilgrims," and the other in " ChurchiU's Collection of Voyages and Travels." The narrative that I am about to read has been prepared from a careful coUation of the two. Narrative of the Journey of Sir Thomas Roe to the Court of the Great Mogul. Sir Thomas Roe sailed from England in the early part of the year 1615; and, on the 26th of September following, landed at Surat, on the eastern coast of Hindoostan. After a residence there of somewhat more than a month, he, and the persons of his retinue, proceeded on their journey to the court of the Mogul, which was then at Ajmeer. In about six weeks Aey reached Clwprah ; and three days afterwards arrived at Boorhandpoor, a city distant from Surat somewhat more than two hundred miles. On the entrance of the travellers into this city, tbey were met by an officer aud a numerous gnard, who conducted them to a house which had been appointed for their residence. The gate of this house had a band- some stone front ; but when Sir Thomas entered, he found that four rooms allotted to him had only naked brick walls, and were not larger than so many ovens. He sent word to the officer, that he would immediately leave the place unless some better residence were pro vided for him than this. The officer expressed his regret at the disappointment which the ambassador had experienced; but declared, that it was the best house in the chy. except those inhabited by die Sultan Parvis (the mogul's second son) by tiie general of the army, and a few of the nobiUty. This, on subsequent TRAVELS IN INDIA. 23 inquiry, was found to be true; for all the other build ings of Boorhandpoor were but mud cottages. Shortiy after the arrival of Sir Thomas the Sulteui Parvis sent a messenger to him, requesting him to come to the palace. As it was considered a desirable object to obtain, if possible, the good will of all the native. princes, and, as Sir Thomas was somewhat anxious to witness the customs of an eastern court, he went thilher. On his arrival at the palace he was conducted by an officer, through a company of about a hundred horse men under arms, to the inner court. Here the prince sat in a high gallery that encircled the court ; he had a canopy over his head, and a carpet was spread before him. As Sir Thomas Roe was approaching to pay his respects to the prince, an officer stated to him that it was requisite he should take off his hat, and touch the ground with his head ; the eastern mode of salutation before princes. Sir Thomas replied, that he had come to do the prince honour by visiting him, and that, con sequently, he could not subject himself to a degradation so slavish as this. A reply thus decisive and inde pendent did not give offence ; and he was subsequently excused from many of the troublesome ceremonies that are practised by the inhabitants of the East. It was a desirable object to establish an English factory at Boorhandpoor ; and he requested permission from the prince that this might be done. His request was so far complied with, that orders were immediately issued for a firman or licence to be drawn up, to authorize the residence of the merchants there. Sir Thomas and his attendants left Boorhandpoor on the 27th of November, and in about three weeks ar rived at Cbitore, an ancient town then in ruins, but ex hibiting the most magnificent remains. It was situated on a considerable eminence. There were stiU ejpsting more than a hundred temples, all of carved stone, adorned with towers and domes, and supported by numerous columns. There were also left many bouses, but not a single inhabitant. The hill on which the 24 SIR THOMAS roe's city stood was precipitous on all sides, and had but one ascent, which was cut out of the solid rock. In this ascent were four gates, besides the gate of the city, which was extremely magnificent. Sir Thomas Roe conjectured that this was one of the seats of Porus, the sovereign of India, who was conquered by Alexander the Great. He says, that the present Mogul, and his ancestors, descendants of Ta merlane, had reduced all the ancient cities to ruins, and had forbidden their restoration ; and that this was one which had suffered. The travellers reached Ajmeer on the 23d of De cember. Sir Thomas Roe was at this time so ill that he was obliged to keep his bed ; and it was not until after some days that he was able to go to the Durbar, the place where the Mogul sat to receive strangers, and transact public business. Before he went he had ob tained the privilege of being allowed to conduct him self, in all the ceremonies of the court, according to the customs of his own country. At the Durbar he was led immediately into the presence of the Mogul, and stationed at the entrance of an outer railing, which divided the hall of audience into two parts. Two noble slaves approached to conduct him nearer. The Mogul sat in a small raised gallery : ambassadors from foreign courts, and great men in the service of the Mogul, were within an inner raihng directly under him, that space being somewhat elevated from the ground, and covered above with canopies of silk and velvet, and on the floor with carpets. When he was presented, the Mogul, in terrupting the dull formality of the interpreter, imme diately welcomed Sir Thomas Roe, as the ambassador of the king of England, in the most friendly manner imaginable, and with marks of favour w hich had not been shown to the ambassadors of other nations Sir Thomas delivered to the Mogul a translation of the king of England's letter, and his commission, and after- wards the presents that he had brought The Mogul asked him several questions on subjects connected with TRAVELS IN INDIA. 25 the embassy ; and then, with appacept regard for the health of Sir Thomas, he offered to send to him the physcians attached lo the court, advising that he should confine himself to his house till he had recovered strength ; and directing him, in the meantime, to send to the palace for whatever he might consider requisite towards the re-establishment of his health. It was customary for the Mogul every morning to come to a particular window, which overlooked- an open space before flie palace gate. Here he showed himself to the common people. At noon he returned to the same place, where he usually sat some hours, amusing himself with exhibitions of the combats of elephants and other wild beasts. He then retired to sleep within the female apartments till the afternoon, wTien he attended at the Durbar, or hall of audience, as before-mentioned. At eight o'clock in the evening, after supper, he usually appeared in one of the courts of the palace, where he sat either on a throne, or on a chair of state at the foot of the throne. Here only persons of the highest quality were admitted into his presence ; and no business of state or government was transacted with him, but at one of the last-mentioned places. Sir Thomas Roe, when somewhat recovered from his illness, sent a messenger to the Sultan Churrum, the third son of the Mogul, requesting, permission to pay his respects to. him. This prince was in great favour with the Mogul, and was reported to be au inveterate enemy of the Christians. Sir Thomas, though he had been fearful that he might experience some insult, was received by the prince with great marks of condescen sion. The Sifltan Churrum was the chief governor of Surat. ^ Some of the English merchants resident at Surat had, not long before, suffered many injuries and much inconvenience, from the conduct of -persons who had the immediate superintendence of that town. Sir Thomas stated to the sultan the grievances of the mer- Trav. c 26 SIR THOMAS roe's chants ; and the letter promised that they should im mediately be redressed. Several times after this Sir Thomas Roe visited bofh the prince and the Mogul. They had each promised him that the English should be treated by their people in the most favourable and friendly manner ; and that a firm and lasting treaty of peace and amity should be concluded betwixt the king of England and the Mognl. Notwithstanding this, several months were permitted to elapse, and nothing permanently beneficial was established. Of this Sir Thomas Roe complained to the Mogul in the most open and undaunted manner ; though he was powerfully opposed by the ambassadors of other nations, and by various persons in the court of the Mogul, who were influenced by self-interested mo tives. On the 31st of March he was present at an entertain ment given to the Mogul at the house of Asaph Khan, one of the principal officers of the court. This house was about an English mile from the palace, and a path way along the whole distance was formed for the Mogul with silks and velvet. The feast, and the pre sent that was made to the Mogul on tbe occasion, were estimated to have cost the proprietor the enormous sum of six lacs of rupees. Sir Thomas Roe had been about seven mouths at Ajmeer, when a band of one hundred robbers were brought in chains before ,the Mogul. Their accusers stated the charge of robbery against them ; and, with out any ceremony of trial, the Mogul ordered them to be carried away for execution. The chief he con demned to be torn in pieces by dogs ; and aU the others were directed to be put to death in the customary manner. The prisoners « ere sent to different quarters of the city, and executed iu the streets. Close to the house in which Sir Thomas Roe resided the chief was devoured by twelve dogs; and thirteen of his associates, their hands and feet having been tied together, had TRAVELS IN INDIA. 27 their necks cut by a sword, yet not quite through, and their bodies were left to corrupt in the street. As a peculiar mark of favour, the Mogul, on the 16th of August, presented Sir Thomas Roe with a smaU pic ture of himself, hanging by a chain of gold wire, and ornamented by four pendent pearls. Ill the night of the 19th, and on the following day, there -fell so tremendous a storm of rain that it was feared a considerable part of the town of Ajmeer would be washed away by the torrents from the mountains. Many persons carried off their moveable property, on elephants and camels, to the sides of the adjacent hills; and nearly all who were left in the place- had their horses ready, that, if it were necessary, they might save their lives by flight. Sir Thoraas Roe, and those with him, sat up till midnight in the utmost consternation, as it was reported to be probable that the water might rise higher than even the top of their house, and sweep it whoUy away. Means, however, were judiciously taken to turn the principal current of the water into another direction ; and the place was saved from de struction. The 2d of September was the Mogul's birth-day, and it was solemnized with extraordinary festivities. Among other ceremonies, customary on this occasion, he vvas weighed against a great variety of articles, such as jewels, gold, silver, stuffs of gold and silver, silk, butter, rice, and fruits. Sir Thomas Roe was sent for, and though he came too late for this part of the ceremony, he obtained an audience of congratulation, and was in time to witness another ceremony, that of introducing the elephants. Several elephants of large size; and ornamented with chains, bells, and furniture of gold and silver, many gilt flags and streamers, and each having eight or ten inferior elephants to attend hifli, were brought into the palace court. Each in turn bent his knees before thesovereign; and the keeper of €ach chief elephant made' a present to him ; after which they retired. About ten o'clock at night the Mogul c2 28 SIR THOMAS roe's sent for Sir Thomas, requesting him to come imme diately to the palace. He proceeded thither, and the Mogul entered freely into conversation with him : be fore the close of the conversation he was requested to drink some wine. Sir Thomas could not with propriety refuse, and the Mogul ordered' a goblet half full of wine to be presented to him. This he was directed to drink off twice, thrice, four times, or five times, and to accept the goblet, with all its appurtenances, as a pre sent. He found the liquor excessively strong, and was permitted to drink as little as he pleased. The goblet which was thus given to him was of gold, and set with rubies, and turquoises : the cover was likewise of gold, and set vrith rubies, emeralds, and turquoises. There was also a suitable dish or salver on which the cup was supported. The number of precious stones that were upon the cup, the cover, and the salver, amounted in the whole to more than two thonsand, and th^ gold weighed about twenty ounces. A little while after this it was resolved by the Mogul to remove the court from Ajmeer into the Decan, where a war had, some time before, been commenced with the princes of that part of India. On the 1st of November the Mogul's third son, the Sultan Churrum, to whom the command of the army had been given, took his leave. On this occasion the Mogul sat in the Durbar at noon, and the prince passed his establishment in review before him. This consisted of six hundred elephants, each richly caparisoned, and about ten thousand horsemen, all splendidly arrayed. Many of his followers were clad in cloth of gold, and had their turbans adorned with herons' plumes. The prince himself wore a dress formed of cloth of silver, embroidered all over, and splendidly decorated with pearls and diamonds. The Mogul embraced aud kissed his son, and then presented hira with a rich sword, the hilt and scabbard of which were of gold, set with pre cious stones. He gave him also a valuable dagger, to gether with an elephant and a horse, the furniture and tEAVELS IN INDIA. 29 trappings of which were magnificently decorated with gold and jewels; At his departure the Mogul presented him with a coach, made in imitation of one that had been brought by Sir Thomas Roe from the king of England. On the following day the Mogul himself de parted for the camp. After various introductory cere monies, he entered another coach, and was drawn by four horses with harness and trappings of velvet and gold. This was the first coach the Mogul had ever been in; and it had been so admirably constructed that Sir Thomas Roe says he could not have known it fi-om the English carriage but by the cover, which was of gold Persian velvet. The Mogul having seated him self, two of his servants attended ou each side ; they carried small golden maces set with rubies, and termi nated by horse-tails, which they used for driving away the flies. The Mogul was preceded by drums, trumpets, and loud music, together with many canopies, parasols, and other ensigns of majesty, all formed of cloth t)f gold, and adorned with rubies. Immediately after the coach followed three palanquins. The carriage and feet of one of these were plated with gold and set with pearls, and it had a fringe of large pearls in strings a foot long, and the border set round with rubies and emeralds. The other two were covered and lined with cloth of gold. Next followed the English coach, newly covered, and richly decorated : this the Mogul had given to his favourite queen, Nourmahal, who sat in it. After this went a coach made after the fashion of the couutry, in which rode the younger sons of the Mogul. Twenty s^iare royal elephants, all for the king's use, and splendidly adorned with precious stones and rich furniture, succeeded the coach. The ladies of the Mogul, fifty in number, followed about half a mile in the rear: each was mounted on an elephant, richly caparisoned, and sat in a turret, or howder, with grates of gold wire for her to see through, and a rich ca nopy ov#r her head of cloth and silver. They thus looked Uke so many parroquets in golden cages.. More 30 SIR THOMAS roe's than nine hundred other elephants attended the pro cession. The road was all the way sprinkled with water to prevent the dust from rising. "The royal camp was very splendid. It was fenced round, to the circuit of nearly half a mile, with high screens or curtains formed of a kind of stuff which seemed like tapestry, red on the outside, and variously ornamented within. Sir Thomas Roe attended at the camp, to pay his respects there to the Mogul. By the 10th of November nearly every one had re moved from the town of Ajmeer; and Sir 'Thomas found great difficulty in procuring camels and carts fof the removal of the goods belonging to himself and his suite. In consequence of an order from tbe Mogul the town had been set on fire, and the greater part of it consumed. The intention of this order was, that aU the male inhabitants capable of bearing arms should thereby be compeUed to join the camp. On the 25th Sir Thomas left Ajmeer to follow the court ; and, on the day after bis departure, he saw in a village the naked bodies of an hundred men who bad been put to dearth for robbery. On the 4th of Decem ber he passed a camel laden with the heads of three hundred men : these heads had been sent from Can- dahar to the Mogul ; the people to vi hom they had be- iQHgsd hayJKg been taken iu rebellion. He overtook ihe Mogul at a walled town called Todak, situated, in the' best dnd most populous country he had seen since his arrival in India. This town was .better built than either Surat or Ajmeer, many of the houses being two Stories high, and most of them tolerably good. Near the town was a beautiful grove two miles long, and a qualrter of a mile wide, planted with mangoes, tama? rinds, and other fruit-trees ; it was divided by shady walks, and interspersed with little temples, with altars for the idols that were worshipped iu that part of the country, fountains, wells, and summer-houses of carved stone curiously arched. ^ Sir Thomas Roe occupied the ninth of December TRAVELS IN INDIA. 31 in taking a vie-w of the royal camp. The formation of this ho describes to have been very wonderful. He says, that he saw it set up and finished in less than four hours, except the tents of some of the great men ; and yet that the whole must have been nearly twenty English miles in circuit. In the middle were all sorts of shops regularly arranged. _ Every man' of quality, and every person in trade was uistructed how far dis tant he should be placed from the Mogul's tents, in what direction, and what ground he should occupy; and this arrangement continued afterwards during the whole campaign. The Mogul occupied much of his time in hunting, hawking, and other sports. On the 16th of December, after he had returned from hunting. Sir Thomas Roe saw him sitting on his throne, and by him a beggar, a man almost an idiot, clothed in rags and covered with filth, yet crowned with feathers. The country abounds with persons of this description, who ate held in great reverence, and esteemed of considerable sanctity. This miserable looking being was permitted to sit in the presence of tbe Mogul, a privilege which was not allowed even to the heir-apparent of the crown. The Mogul conversed with him more than an hour, and received from him, as a present, a dirty cake, which had been made by the beggar himself; yet, dirty as it was, 'the Mogul broke off a piece and ate it. He then pre sented the man with an hundred rupees, and, after having embraced him three times, left him. The march was continued, but not with great expe dition ; for the troops halted and encamped every other day, and they were encumbered with an immense train of baggage. Ou the 26lh they passed through woods and over mountains which were almost impassa ble, and in which many of the camels perishefl. The Mogul himself performed this part of the journey On a small elephant. Three days afterwards the army was encamped on the banks of the river Chamhull. It was now ascertained that the Mogul intended to proceed to 32 SIR THOAlAS roe's Mindia, a town distant about eight days' journey from Boorhandpoor, whither the Sultan Churrum had gone with the main body of the army. The Mogul passed the river Sind on the 7th of January, and, soon after wards, entered a wild district which was much infested by robbers. This district belonged to a prince who was disaffected to tbe government. Some of his people, who had attempted to escape into the mountains, were taken ; and, being chained together by the neck, were brought before the Mogul. At night the Mogul caused the town near which he was encamped to be set on fire. He appointed a new governor, and gave him orders to rebuild and re-people it, and to bring the whole district under a more regular government. On the 20th, the people, who had fled to the mountains, being enraged by the burning of their town, attacked the stragglers from the Mogul's army, and killed a great number of them. The Mogul and bis suite passed Oofain, the. chief city of a district called Malwah, which anciently be longed to the Gentoo kings of Mindia. In the course of the march, the greatest deprivations and inconve nience were often experienced from want of foresight and proper attention in those who had the management of it. Water was sometimes extremely scarce in the camp, and provisions became every day more scarce and dear. These wants, however, were not alleviated either by the Mogul, or his officers, for they expe rienced no personal inconvenience from them. The whole burden of distress fellupon strangers, the soldiers, and the poor followers of the camp. Ou the 6th of March, the court having entered the city of Mindia, Sir '1 homas Roe took up bis quarters there, in a pleasant and airy court, well walled round, and containing a temple and a tomb. As the princes of the Decau « ere reported to be prepared for a power ful resistance, the Mogul did not seem inclined to hasten bis progress towards that country. The court consequently continued for many months in the vicinity TRAVELS IN INDIA. 33 of Mindia. During this time Sir Thomas Roe was almost incessantly employed in endeavouring to effect the objects of his. mission — the estabhshment of a treaty of amity with the Mogul, advantageous to the commercial interests of England. The solemnity of the Mogul's birth-day was ob served on the 2d of September, and Sir Thomas was this year present at the singular ceremony of the Mogul being weighed. Sir Thomas was conducted into a beautiful garden, where was a large lake of water, set round with trees and flowers, and having, in the middle, a pavition, or pleasure-house. Under this hung th,e scales : these were of beaten gold, set with precious . stones : they were suspended by large and massy chains' of gold, strengthened by silken ropes: the beam and tressels from which they hung were covered with plates of gold. In this place all the nobles of the court were assembled, sitting on rich carpets, and wailing the arrival of the Mogul. He at length appeared, tlad, or rather laden, with robes set with diainonds, rubies, pearls, and other valuables. His sword, target, and throne corresponded with his dress ia riches and splendour. His head, neck, breast, and arms, were decorated with chains of precious stones ; and each of his fingers had two or three valuabl& rings. His legs appeared, as it were, fettered with Chains of diamonds, rubies, and pearls. He seated himself in one of the scales; and into the other, to counterpoise his weight, were put many bags, said to contain silver. After this he was weighed against gold, jewels, and precious stones, as Sir Thomas Roe was informed ; but the bagsi for any thing he knew, might have contained pebbles. The Mogul was then weighed against cloth of gold, silk stuffs, cotton goods, spices, and various other com modities ; but the exterior only of the packages was visible. He was lastly weighed against meal, butter, and corn. All these were said to be distributed to the Banians, people of a peculiar religious sect, and very numerous in India ; but though this was said to have c2 34 SIR THOMAS roe's , been done. Sir Thomas saw all the bags carefully car ried away, and nothing was distributed. After the ceremony of weighing was over, the Mogul ascended the throne, and liad before him basons filled with nuts, almonds, and spices of various kinds, artificially made of thin silver. These he threw about among the peo ple ; and even the great men of his court scrambled for them prostrate on the ground. Sir Thomas Roe would not disgrace himself by joining in the scramble ; the Mogul, therefore, took one basoh, and poured the con tents of it into bis cloak. On the 24th of October the Mogul departed from Mindia; and on the ensuing day Sir Thomas Roe, having hired ten camels for the use of himself and his suite, set out to follow him. About a week afterwards he again reached the royal camp. Here he . was ift- formed that the Mogul and a few of his nobles were engaged in a hunting party which was to last for ten days, and that no one was to follow him without ex press permission. The camp was at this time suffering great inconve nience from scarcity of provisions, bad water, sickness, and other calamities. This will not much e.xcite our surprise when it is stated, that it consisted of near 300,000 persons, including men, women, and children ; and that the elephants, camels, horses, and other ani mals attached to it, were innumerable. It was uncertain whether the Mogul would proceed to Agra or Guzerat ; the former, however, was consi dered 'the more probable, as his ministers and coun sellors were not now desirous of being personally en gaged in the Decan war. \\ hen they had originally advised the Mogul to advance in person, it was in ex pectation that his appearance alone would have intiiui-, dated the princes of that district into submission. But having found themselves disappointed in their opinion, they were now desirous of retiring from the contest. Before the termination of the campaign. Sir Thomas Roe, after much difficulty aud Ion? continued perse- TRAVELS IN INDIA. 35 verance, effected the object of his mission, tlie establish ment of an English factory within the dominions of the Mogul;, and arranged many important affains re lative to a commercial iutercoui-se betwixt England and India. When he left the court to return to Europe, he was dismissed by the Great Mogul with more favour and politeness than had been shown to any other am bassador. ' In his return he proceeded to Ahmadabad^ where he arrived on the 15th of December. Here the account of his travels abruptly breaks off, and I lament that there are now no means of ascertain ing any of the particulars relative to his journey home. This appears to have been the first embassy that was ever despatched from England to any of the remote eastern countries, and to have been the commencement of the great political intercourse which now subsists betwixt Great Britain and India. It would have given me great pleasure to have inserted more particulars relative to the business that was transacted by Sir Thomas Roe ; but the necessity I have been under of compressing the account of his travels into as small a compass as possible has prevented me from even at tempting to do so. Frederic. There are two anecdotes in Sir Thomas Roe's narrative with which I was much amused, and which Edmund has omitted to relate. One of these was, that the Mogul, happy in his pride of ignorance, fancied tiiat his dominions constituted the greatest portion of the habitable world : but that his mortifi cation was great when, in Mercator's maps of the world . which were presented to him by Sir Thomas Roe, he foupd himself possessed but of a small part of it. He was so much chagrined that he ordered the maps to be immediately given back to Sir Thomas. ^ Louisa. From the narrative that my brother has read I should imagine the Mogul to have been both a proud and an ignorant man. Frederic. My other anecdote will not tend to 36 TRAVELLfiES. change this opinion. Before Sir Thomas Roe left the court of the Mogul on his return to England, he re quested to be favoured with a recommendatory letter to the English monarch. This request was complied with, and a letter was written. But the Mogul was much perplexed as to the manner in which the seal should be placed to it. If it were placed under the writing, he intimated that it might disparage his own dignity ; and if over the writing, he feared the king of England might be offended. At last, on consulting with his ministers, it was agreed that tbe seal should be sent separately from the letter, that it might after wards be affixed to whatever part tbe king of England might think proper. Lady Irwin. We cannot be much surprised that an immense empire, governed by such a man and such mi nisters, should afterwards have fallen into anarchy. Sir Charles. The narration of Sir Thomas Roe clearly shows the inherent vices of the Mogul government. He expressed a decided opinion that iu the course of a few years it would be torn in pieces by its cumbrous and in managed strength ; and the Mogul empire has long ceased to exist. But, respecting Sir Thomas Roe, what befel him after his return to England ? Frederic. In the year 1620 he was elected a member of parliament for the borough of Cirencester, in Glou cestershire ; and, in the ensuing year, was sent to Con stantinople, as ambassador to the Grand Seignor. Edmund. It is a very remarkable circumstance that during the first fifteen months he was in Turkey, the changes in the government were so numerous, thatthere were three emperors of the Turks, seven prime viziers, two captain bassas, five agas of the Janissaries, and three great treasurers. Mr. Allen. The latter were all great officers of state ; and there has perhaps seldom occurred a more extraordinary fluctuation iu the government of any country than this. SIR THOMAS ROE. 37 Lady Irwin, Under so many persons, influenced by so many different opinions and motives. Sir Thomas Roe must have had a very difficult part to act. Edmund. And yet he conducted himself with so much judgment and discretion, that, even to this day, the English government experience the happy effects of his negotiations. Before his time the affairs of our merchants in 'Furkey were in great disorder, little re gard being paid to the treaties which had previously been entered into. But Sir Thomas recovered all the advantages that had been lost, and established infinitely better regulations than had ever before been adopted. Frederic. His character must have been in peculiarly high estimation; for almost all the Turkish ministers (though in his time so often changed) confided in him^ and they were frequently governed by his counsels, even in their own aflairs. Edmund. This may well have been the case, for he was not only a man of unbounded talent, but of strict integrity : he despised every species of chicanery and double deaUng. He was also remarkable on account of his benevolent aud humane disposition. We are in formed that he made it a rule to appropriate a tenth part of his income to the use of the' poor ; and that, in numerous instances, he successfully exerted himself in obtaining the freedom of Europeans who had been captured and sent into slavery by the pirates of the Mediterranean. On one occasion he procured the re lease of more than eight hundred. English seamen, who had been taken prisoners and compelled to serve on board the ships of the Barbary cor.sairs. Sir Charles. Did be not, during his residence in the east, make an extensive collection of valuable manu scripts in the Greek and oriental languages ? Frederic. He did, sir; and then Uherally presented them to the Bodleian Library at Oxford. After he left Turkey he was employed on another important mission, to negotiate a peace between tbe kings of Poland and Sweden. 38 TRAVELLERS. ¦ Edmund, This was in 1629. He succeeded in the negotiation, and' not long afterwards was charged to negotiate a treaty with the king of Denmark, in which also he was successful. He was subsequently employed in several similar negotiations with different princes of Germany, and acquitted himself of all to the satisfaction of the English court. Frederic. In 1640, Sir Thomas Rofe was elected one of the representatives of the University of Oxford in Parliament; and, by such of his speeches as have been printed, he has shown himself a man of great eloquence, learaing, and knowledge. His long and various services, however, were but ill requited. After near forty years employment abroad, the only places of trust that were conferred upon him were those of privy counsellor, and chancellor of the garter. The calamities of the nation during the civil wars of the reign of Charles t!»e First subsequently embittered his repose, and, as it is gene rally imagined, tended to shorten his life. He died on the 6th of November, 1644, and two days afterwards was privately buried at Woodford, in Essex. Mr, Allen. The character of Sir Thomas Roe, both as a minister and a man, has been much admired. Though surrounded with difficulties and danger, inconsequence of the incessant changes at the Turkish court, opposed by active and vigilant enemies-, and after a v bile per plexed by the distracted state of the EngUsh court, he acted with intrepidity and judgment, and invariably supported the dignity of his country. As he was a great, able, and upright statesman, so also he was a generous and public spirited man, and a pious Christian. SIR GEORGE WHELER. 39 THIRD EVENING. The life of Sir George Wheler, and the account of his travels in Greece, were next introduced. It was. observed by Frederic Montagu, that, exclusive of the incidents mentioned in his travels, few particulars had been recorded concerning him. Frederic said, that he was the son of Colonel Wheler, of Charing, in Kent ; but that be had been born at Breda, in Holland. The time of his birth is supposed to have been about the year 1650. Lady Irwin. What had occasioned his parents to go abroad ? Frederic. They were exiled from their own country by the parliament, in consequence of their ardent at tachment to the Cause of King Charles the First. At the Restoration, in 1660, they seem, however, to have returned to England. Edmund. About seven years after this event, their son, then seventeen years of age, was admitted a coii>- moner of Lincoln College, Oxford ; but he does not appear to have taken any degree before he went abroad. Lady Irwin. Did he go into Greece immediately after he left college ? If so, he must have been too young to have travelled with advantage in that classical country. Frederic, He prepared himself by. first spending nearly two years in surveying the most celebrated parts of France and Italy. Louisa. Did he travel alone ? Frederic. No, Louisa: in Greece, he was accom panied by Dr. . James Spon, of Lyons, with whom he became acquainted at Rome., . Maria. You now call him Mr. Wheler: you before called liim Sir George Wheeler. Frederic, He was Mr. Wheler at this time, for he 40- ' SIR GEORGE WHELER's did not receive the honour of' knighthood until his re* turn from Greece. r The professed objects of the travellers in their ex cursion were to copy inscriptions, and to describe the antiquities and coins of Greece and Asia Minor, and particularly of Athens. Mr, Allen. In their journey they made great use of the works of Pausanias, a Greek writer, who, about two centuries after tbe birth of Christ, visited and described various public monuments in Greece, such as temples, ' tombs, statues, and paintings. By means of this work they were enabled to correct and explain many pas sages in ancient authors, which before were perplexed and obscure. Maria. But how can a knowledge of inscriptions and antiquities have been considered of such importance, as to induce two men of learning to travel so far as to Greece, for the purpose of copying and describing them? Mr. Allen. As tending to illustrate the ancient his tory of a country, such knowledge is often of the great est use. A considerable- portion of history may some times be illustrated by even the meanest vestige of a former age. Frederic. And there is no part of Europe which more -deservedly claims attention than Greece. And this not only on account of its importance in history, but from its having produced many persons of the greatest eminence both in arts and arms. Sir Charles. Its antiquities exhibit monuments of the genius of the Athenians, as well as perfect models of what is excellent in sculpture and architecture. Mr. Allen. It is known that both sculpture and architecture attained their highest excellence at Athens, more than two thousand three hundred years ago, in the time of Pericles ; when Phidias, the Grecian sculptor, distinguished himself by snch superior ability, that his works were admired by the ancients so long as any TRAVELS IN GREECE. 41 knowledge or taste remained among them. It was under his superintendence that many of the most cele brated buildings in Athens were erected. After this a succession of excellent painters, sculptor.s, and archi tects appeared ; and these arts continued in Greece, in their highest perfection, till after the death of Alexander the Great. There are now deposited iu the British Museum many fine relics of Grecian sculpture, which I will more particularly mention when Frederic has finished his narrative. He read as foUows : — Narrative of Wheler's Travels in Greece. Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon sailed from Venice for Constantinople on the 20th of June, 1675, and in the ship which conveyed the Venetian ambassador to the court of the Grand. Seignior. On the ensuing morn ing they were within sight of the coast of Istria, and about noon arrived at the little island of St Andre, near that shore. Here they found a convent of Fran ciscan friars delightfully situated, aud commanding a varied prospect of woods, hills, and the sea. They left this island the next morning ; but, iu consequence of the sea running high, though there was little wind, the captain was unable that day to proceed beyond the harbour of Pola. Pola is one of the most ancient cities of Istria. The travellers found here considerable remains of an amphi theatre, of a triumphal arch, and of a temple dedicated to Augustus Caesar. The front of the latter was sup ported by four Corinthian columns formed of a curious speckled kind of marble. The cathedral church of this place seemed to have been built on the ruins of a heathen temple. « After the vessel had left Pola she was driven, by stress of weather, into the harbour of Zara, an an cient and fortified city of Dalmatia. Mr. Wheler says, that, on visiting the church of Zara, he was 42 SIR GEORGE VVHELEE's 'shown the dried body of a man, believed to have been thjit of Simeon, who received our Saviour in his arms at his presentation in the temple. It had been brought, as he was told, from the Holy Land, was vyorshipped with great devotion, and frequently carried in proces sion round the town. The shrine, or case, m which it was preserved, was glazed in front to expose it to view. Mr, Wheler says, that he had seen several dried bodies of similar appearance in charnel houses in Italy. He saw at this place some inscriptions, an altar, and other Roman antiquities. The travellers continued five days at Zara, during which time they were treated in the most hospitable manner by tbe governor of tbe city. They sailed thente on the 1st of July, and on the ensuing day arrived jn the harbour of Spalatro, also on the coast of Dalmatia. Spalatro is celebrated for having been the site of a palace built by the Emperor Dioclesian. Considerable remains of this palace still existed, indicating its extent to have been nearly two-thirds of the present city. The jilace iu which the ambassador and other persons who landed were accommodated with lodgings at Spa latro was a large biulding called a Lazaretto, situated near the shore, and chiefly appropriated for the re ception of such persons, coming from Turkey and other countries, as were supposed to be infected by the plague This building was given up to the use of the travellers, because there was no inn in the city, and it consisted of little more than naked walls. Mr. Wheler, however, describes it to have been abundantly inhabifed by -bugs, fleas, and ants. He and his companions continued at Spalatro eleven days, during wliicli time they had opportunity not only leisurely to examine every part of lliat place, but also to make several excursions into the neighbourhood. Thus, notwithstanding their miserable lodgings at night, they contrived to pass the days pleasantly. Provisions were abundant, and these were cooked for them by the wife of a German soldier, the only person iu the town whom TRAVELS IN GREECE. 43 they could hire for that purpose. Partridges and hares they purchased at the rate of from fourpence to six pence each ; and butchers' meat was sold for about a penny a pound. Tortoises were very abundant, and were much esteemed as food ; aud the trout that were caught in an adjacent river were of exquisite quality. Mr. Wheler, among other places, visited the towns of Salona and Trau, one about four, and the other thirteen, miles from Spal'dtro. His chief reason for visiting the latter place was, that he might inspect the fragment of an ancient Roman manuscript, which, he had been informed, was in the possession of a gentle man resident there. ^ The ambassador being resolved to proceed from Spalatro to Constantinople by land, JVIr. Wheler and Dr. Spon parted with him at this place, and again e'm- barkcd. In a few hours they, reached Curzola ; and the next day sailed betwixt the islands of SahioncMa . and Meleda, and passed within sight of Ragusa. At the latter place it had been their intention to land, but they were prevented, by information that the inhabi tants were infected by the plague. They consequently proceeded onward for Corfu. This island, celebrated both in ancient and modern history, lies at the mouth of the Adriatic, is of triangular shape, and about sixty miles in its greatest extent. / They landed at the ruiiied city which was ancieutly denominated Cassicpea, biit was now called Cassopo, Near it was a small church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and famous for a picture of her, to which a very extraordinary miraculous property was attributed. Any person desirous of knowing whether a friend were living or dead, was directed, by the monks, to place against the picture a piece of money, and to think of his friend. If the friend were alive it was believed that Ihe^money would adhere to the picture, and the raonks'claimed it as their reward : if the friend were dead il would fall into a bag faste;ned beneath ; so that, whether the friend were Uving or dead, the monks secured the money. 44 SIR GEORGE VTHELER's -Mr. Wheler amused himself with trying the experiment, but he was determined to do it at as cheap a rate as possible, for he only placed farthings, some of which adhered, and some feU. The picture was painted on the wall, and Mr. Wheler imagined that its adhesive property was owing to the clamminess of the varnish with which it was covered. On the ensuing day the travellers arrived at Cmfu, the chief town in the island. It was well fortified by walls on the south ; and by two castles, one at the east and the other at the west end. As Mr. Wheler and his friend were mistaken for spies, they could not obtain admission within the walls. On the 21 st of July they sailed for Zanle ; but the wind being unfavourable, they made but little progress for three days. At length, however, the wind changed, and, passing the island of Ccfalonia, they arrived at Zante on the twenty-fourth. This island Mr. Wheler describes to be about thirty miles in circuit : it was subject lo tbe Venetians ; and its principal town had numerous inhabitants. The hpuses were built of stone, but were not high, as the ' inhabitants lived constantly in fear of earthquakes. These, in the spring of the year, are said sometimes to have occurred as often as once or twice a week ; and, at different times, they had so shaken tbe houses, that the walls were full of reuts. On a subsequent occa sion, when Mr. Wheler «as here, an earthquake oe-^ curred. He was leaning upon a table, when, suddenly, ihere was so violent a concussion of the earth, that he thought the house (which was but one story high) would have fallen upon him : the walls cracked, and the chairs, stools, and tables, were clashed together. This occur rence made so deep an impression upon his luiud, that he could scarcely persuade himself but he felt the earth in motion during the whole time of his continu ance iu the island afterwards. The inhabitants, how ever, were so much accustomed to earthquakes, that, he says, they experienced but Uttle alarm from them. TRAVELS IN GREECE. 45 Zante was, at this period, the principal island which supplied the dried currants so much used in England. Mr. Wheler remarks, that these are a species of smalL grapes, which, from having formerly been much culti vated near Corinth, the famous city of Morea, were called uvee Corinthiacee, or " grapes of Corinth," whence the name has, of late years, been corrupted to currants. The island at this time produced as many currants as were sufficient to load five or six ships every year. A considerable quantity were also produce'd at Cephalonia, and some of the other islands. Besides currants, Zante produced an abundance of olives, melons, peaches, citrons, oranges, and lemons, all of exceUent quality. - The peaches were so large that many of them weighed from ten to sixteen ounces each. "The vessel left Zante, and after a sail of four days, in a south-easterly direction, arrived at the island of Cerigo, situated at the southern extremity of the Morea. This was the ancient Cythera, celebrated as the native country of Venus and Helena. Were we to form an idea of the island from its ancient celebrity, we might imagine it one of the most delightful places in existence; but, on the contrary, the greatest part of its surface was at this time rocky and barren : it was thinly inhabited, and produced only a small quantity of com, wine, aud oil. On the eastern side of the island Mr. Wheler visited some ancient grottos ; and some ruins of what were pointed out to him to have formerly been the city of Menelaus, the husband of Helena. Having left Cerigo, and doubled Cape St. Angelo, the traveUers passed within sight of Malvasia, a strong castle built upon a rock on the shore of the Morea, Proceeding now in an easterly direction, they saw the island of Antemilo ; and, further on, that of Milo. The latter, which is said to have had one of the best har bours in the world-, was, at this time, a place of refuge for the corsairs or pirates of the Mediterranean. They next saw Argentiera ; and afterwards were shown, at a great distance towards the east, the island of Paros, 46 SIR GEORGE WHELER's renowned, both among the ancients arid modems, for its quarries of white marble. The course of the vessel then lay to the west of Serpho, and afterwards betwixt the islands of Thermia and Zea ; the former of which was celebrated among the Greeks for the number of its baths and hot springs. On the morning of the ninth of August the vessel was anchored in a bay on the south side of the island of Tino or Tenos, where an extensive city, and a noble temple dedicated to Nep tune, anciently stood. Of the city two or three bouses only remained ; and the only remarkable piece of anti quity which they observed was a Roman monument to the memory ofa person named Flavins Evergetes, erected at the expense of his wife. From Tino the travellers proceeded to Delos, an island about eight miles in circuit, anciently celebrated by the mythologists and poets, as the birth-place of Apollo and Diana. This island vt-as barren, rocky, and uninhabited. The first object that attracted the atten tion of Mr. Wheler on landing was a sqi^are foundation, with eleven pillars of granite. About the distance ofa stone's cast from these he- observed the remains of an oval structure, three hundred paces long, and two hun dred broad, which he judged to have anciently been a place for naval exhibitions, for it was very low, not far distant from the sea, and was said to have once had a large hole in the middle, for tbe purpose, as was con jectured, of admitting the sea- water. Proceeding eastward they came to a mass of ruins of white marble, ^lut so much dilapidated, that it was im possible to judge of the original form of the building. These were the remains of tbe once celebrated temple of Apollo. Mr. Wheler observed here the trunk of a colossal statue, supposed to have been that of Apollo. The hands, feet, and head, were all gone; but from the parts which remained they could judi;e that it hadonee been a very beautifol piece of workmanship. About three years before the present visitors were here, the captain of a foreign vessel had taken the statue from its TRAVELS IN GREECE. 47 pedestal, with an intention of conveying it on board fais ship ; but finding this to be impracticable, he beat off the head, arms, and feet, and carried them away. Among the ruins Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon saw a large fragment of a female statue, the drapery of which was very beautifully executed ; they also saw the body and fore part of a centaur, so admirably cut, that Ufe and vigour appeared in every muscle. From the temple of Apollo they proceeded south ward, and, near the western shore of the island, came to the ruins of a vast portico of marble of the Co rinthian order. This, from an inscription upon it, part of which was still visible, they conjectured to have been a temple, erected by Philip, kind of Macedon. Not far from the southern extremity of this portico, and on the west side of a little rocky mountain, (the Mount Cynthus, of the ancients') were the remains of a theatre. Its form was somewhat beyond a semicircle, and its greatest diameter about two hundred feet. The whole/ edifice had been constructed of white marble, and many of the seats were still remaining. On Mount Cynthus were various remains of antiquity, particularly those of a castle at the summit. There was anciently on this mount a temple dedicated to Latona, the mother of Apollo. Mr. Wheler found here an altar dedicated to Serapis, Isis, Ahubes, Harpocrates, and the Dios-. couri. After having experienced much delight in their ex cursion through the island of Delos, the travellers re turned in the evening to their boat, with the intention of immediately afterwards going on board the ship; but the weather was so boisterous that this was found impossible. They consequently drew the boat ashore, and made themselves as comfortable as tbey copld for the night. Next morning the sea still ran high ; snd, in attempting to leave the shore,, the boat narrowly escaped being swamped. They were, therefore, again compelled to land, and draw their boat out of the reach of the waves. Much alarm and distress were now felt. 48 SIR GEORGE WHELEU'S The island was uninhabited, and so barren as to be almost wholly destitute of provisions. The little stock of water they had brought on shore was nearly ex hausted, and they had not hitherto observed any fresh water whatever in the island. They commenced an anxious search for water, and soon found two cisterns, but they were both empty. Mr. Wheler, and one of the gentlemen who had accompanied him, being much fatigued, sat down by the boat, and turned thejr thoughts to the filtering of sea-water, in a hope that by so doing they could render it fresh and palatable. In this expectation they filled with sand a basket that had contained their provisions, and poured water upon it. This passed through ; but, to their great mortificaticm, they found it to be strll salt. With their hands, aided by sharp stones, and the beads of spears which they had along with them, they dug a hole in the ground at some distance from the sea. After considerable labour they discovered water here, but on tasting it they found it also salt. Their spirits now began to fail : they re turned to the boat, hot, wearied, and thirsty ; and, in despair of relief, laid down under the shade of it About an hour afterwards another division of their party, who had been in the interior of the island, re turned with the joyful intelligence that they had disco vered a cistern containing water ; they also brought a rabbit and some birds which they had shot. The wants of the whole company were now relieved ; and the violence of the wind having abated, they again pushed off the boat, and this time were successful in reaching the ship. Mr. Wheler next visited the island of Myconi, de scribed by the ancient poets as having been the buiy- ing place of the Centaurs, that were killed by Hercules. No monuments of antiquity were discovered bere. On die following day he and Dr. Spon were shown, at a considerable distance towards the east, the island of Nicaria, anciently called Icaria, and famous for the history of Icarus and Dsedalus. Proceeding northward TRAVliLS IN GREEOli. 49 they arri\cd, on the 17th of August, at the island of Tenedos. From the place where the vessel was an chored they were shown the sumniit of Mount Ida ; and they saw, on the Asiatic shore, vast ruins of a city, which they imagined to be those of Troy. Three days after this the captain of the vessel, being desirous of replenishing his stock of wood and water, sent the long boat ashore; and Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon, accompanying the boat, were landed near a plain about three miles north of the ruins. The plain was partly cultivated, and produced corn, cotton, cucumbers, melons, and various kinds of fruit, besides an abund ance of oak trees of very large size, but different in species from the English oak. They approached the ruins, and found a vast col lection of broken pillars, of marble and other stone, and numerous fragments of walls and foundations: these were near the shore : none of them stood upright, but the whole were lying on the ground, and in a state of the utmost confusion. At a little distance they observed the mole of aport, which had still remaining a large and thick wall towards the shore. There were also numerous columns of marble lying broken beneath it. Mr. Wheler could not venture to assert that this city was that Ilium or Troy, the wars of which Jiave been ren dered famous by the descriptions of Homer and Virgil, though many modern writers believe it to have been such. He was inclined to consider it the modern Ilium, which, from a village of the Trojans, was begun to be built by Alexander the Great, and was finished by Lysimachus, and called Alexandria, A little beyond the port were several marble tombs, some with the head of Apollo upon them, and others with bucklers, but none of them with -inscriptions. There were also some remains of an aqueduct. Be3tond a wide and long channel, evidently artificial, and appa rently formed to admit the sea, that small vessels might float up to the city, was a considerable mass of ruins, tbe remains of a the-dtre. There were also the fbunda- Trav. . D 50 SIR GEORGE WHELER S tions and walls of vast temples and palaces, with arches above, and vaults under the ground ; and on some of the stones were Roman inscriptions. After having viiiited some other ruins near the same place, the tra vellers, towards the close of the day, returned to the ship. The wind, however, being contrary to their course, they were unable to enter the Hellespont, or Straits of the Dardanelles, Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon conse quently landed at a village on the Asiatic shore, and hired for each a small wicker carriage, drawn by a pair of buffaloes. Their intention was to proceed in these to some town on the coast, whence they could procure a boat to convey them up the Straits. After a tedious journey of eight miles, in as many hours, they arrived at a fort called the Old Castle. Here, for ten dollars, they engaged a large boat, and men suffi cient to row them to Constantinople. They embarked in this boatj and arrived at Constantinople on Monday, the 13th of September. Mr. Wheler speaks of this city at considerable lengthy but as almost every respectable book of geography con tains a description of it, and as his account comprises no personal narrative whatever that is in the least im portant, it is here omitted. He and Dr. Spon continued at Constantinople about five weeks ; after which a convenient opijortunity hav ing occurred for their visiting Smyrna, in company with some English merchants, they proceeded thither, intending thence to pass into Greece. They hired a small vessel ; and, on the 6th of October, sailed for the coast of Asia Minor. In the evening of the ensuing day they arrived at the town of Moudania, and thence proceeded on horseback to Prusa or Bursa, as it is sometimes called. This town is situated at the foot of the Mount Olympus of Mysia ; and, according to some writers, was the place where .Ajax destroyed himself after he fled from Troy. When air. Wheler was here Bursa was a large and populous place ; was defended TRAVELS INGREECE. 51 by a castle, aud contained six or seven mosques, or Turkish places of worship, one of which had twenty- five cupolas. Mr. Wheler and his friend visited the seraglio, or palace, belonging to the Grand Seignior. Though a small building, it was well contrived with foaths and stoves. Each of the rooms had a range of presses along the sides. Tliese served both as beds and furniture ; for tbe Turkish houses are not encum bered with bedsteads, tables, and chairs, like ours. A part of the room was raised somewhat higher than the rest, and covered with a carpet. On this it was cus tomary for the Turks to sit cross-legged, and the same apartment served them both for eating and sleeping iu. Bursa was at this time a place of considerable traffic and importance ; all the caravans from Smyrna and Aleppo, and many of those from Persia, passed through it. "There were three or four good khans, or houses of public reception, and the bazaars, or places for the sale and exchange of merchandize, were well built and furnished. The party here hired horses to carry them to Smyrna. On the road they passed several caravans of camels. At one of the places where they stopped, they were lodged in a khan no better than a large barn, having a bank of earth about two feet deep, and eight feet broad, raised all round the interior of the wall. Upon this they slept, on rush mats covered with quilts, their horses being tied to posts at the feet of their beds. On Thursday, the 19th of October, the travellers arrived at Thyatira, an ancient city of Lydia, situated in the midst of a deUghtful plain, and famous for hav ing been the seat of one of the early Christian churches. Christianity was, however, at this time neariy extinct in the place ; for the few Christians then resident thejre had neither a church nor priest. Though there had formerly been in 1 hyatira splendid buildings, the inha bitants now lived only in houses formed of clods of earth dried in the sun. Many Greek inscriptions have at different periods been found here : Mr. Wheler and d2 52 SIR GEORGE WHELER S his friend copied several ; and by these they ascertained not only the ancient name of the place ; but that there had once been here several heathen temples. Two hours before daylight the next morning they proceeded on their journey, in a south-westerly direction, and, passing through Magnisa, arrived at Smyrna in the evening of the ensuing day. Though Smyrna bad at different times suffered greatly both from earthquakes and war, it was still a Fdrge and important place. It is situated at the eastern extremity of a bay more than twenty miles in depth; and it was at this time the most importaM place for trade in Asia Minor. Some remains of its ancient splendour were still left. A Christian church was planted in Smyrna very early ; and, though in the midst of enemies, Christianity has flourished here ever since. Mr. Wheler saw several churches of different denominations of Christians : he likewise saw thirteen mosques, and some Jewish synagogues. Among the natural curiosities observed by him at this place were several chameleons, which he found about the old walls of the castle. He likewise saw many pelicans, and a kind of sheep which were remark able for their broad and fat tails. Previously to the travellers passing into Greece they were induced to make some excursions from Smyrna into the interior of Asia Minor. Among other places they visited Ephesus, now called AJa Sabuck, distant about thirty-six hours journey towards the south. This city was in the midst of a plain, which extended in a westerly direction to the sea four or five miles, and in breadth at least two. The river Caister runs throngh it. The inhabitants of Ephesus did not consist of more than forty or fifty families of Turks, all of whom lived in thatched cottages. Many remains of antiquity were scattered in and around the place : in some parts even the whole sur face of the ground was covered with ruins, among which were iunumcrable fragments of marble pedestals TRAVELS IN GREECE. 53 and columns. With some difficulty the travellers ob tained permission to inspect a small mosque, which was said to have anciently been a church founded by St. John the Evangelist; but it did not contain any thing deserving of notice. At some distance from this mosque they saw the ruins of an amphitheatre; and, not far from these, a large bason, fifteen feet in diameter, formed of red and white marble. They were next con ducted to some very extensive ruins, evidently those of the famous " Temple of Diana of the Ephesians." These, however, were in so shattered a condition, that it was impossible to ascertain what had even been the shape of the building when entire. Some writers have conjectured that, of the materials of the temple, a Christian church was afterwards constructed on the same foundation ; but Mr. Wheler was unable to ascer tain any thing respecting it. Some of the columns were of vast dimensions. The place on which it stood was, at this time, wet and morassy ; and there were un derneath and amongst the ruins many intricate passages. The travellers made some attempts to penetrate into these. Tbey entered them, holding in their bauds a packthread, which they tied to the entrance ; but, with all the light their candles gave, they could make no dis coveries of importance. On their return to Smyrna the party lost their way in tbe dark. Their guide, fearful of encountering some of the numerous bands of robbers which infest this part of the country, led them by an unfrequeuted road ; and at night they found themselves in the midst of a morass. Here, on the driest place they could discover, they were compelled to take up their abode till the morning. During the night they were exposed to a tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and rain; and experienced inconceivable alarm from the howling of jackals ayd other wild anhnals on aU sides around them. On the ensuing day, however, they returned in .safety to Smyrna. To pass from Smyrna into Greece they found it requisite to embark in the Dartmouth frigate. 54 SIR GEORGE -WHELER's which was about to sail for Zante. They went nn board this ship and sailed on the 17th of November. In the passage they encountered a 4torm, which split the rudder of tiie vessel, and rent the sails in pieces; and neaijy five weeks elapsed before they arrived at the place of their destination. At Zanle they hired a vessel to take them to the Morea ; and, on the 28th of December, they arrived at Chiarmza, a ruined city on that shore, about thirty miles north-east of Zante. This is supposed to have been the ancient city Cylleni, the imaginary birth-place of Mercury, and whence he was named Cyllenius. Hence they continued their course along the coast till they came to the Gulf of Lepanio : this they entered on the first of January ; and, the same evening, they arrived at the town of Lepanto, on the coast of JEtolia. The wind being contrary to their progress up the gulf, they crossed to the coast of the Morea. Here, going on shore, they were compelled, for a little while, to take np their abode in a building no bigger than a tomb. It had two holes, one at the top, and another below; but these were so small that they would neither let out the smoke, nor let in the Ught. In an excursion which they made among the neighbouring mountains they passed some flocks of sheep that appeared to have no shepherds ; but soon afterwards they observed, at a distance, thirty or forty shepherds sitting in a circle round an old grey-bearded Turk. At first tbey ima gined that these people were collected for the purpose of some festivity, and the traveUers hoped they should see realized one of those delightful scenes of which they had often read respecting the Arcadian shepherds. But on a near approach they were undeceived. The Turk, in the middle of the circle, had his lap full of pebbles, and pen, ink, and paper, were before him. This man gave to each of the shepherds his task; to turn', by the ensuing day, five of these stones into so many dollars, under the penalty of being sent chained to the galUes if they failed. The raeaniug was, that, for the profits of TRAVELS IN GREECE. 65 their flocks, of which the Turk was the collector for the Grand Seignior, they were each to render the sum that was indicated by the pebbles they received. All the flocks in this part of the country were the property of the Grand Seignior ; and the shepherds were accus tomed to pay the profits of them, except a tenth part, to collectors appointed for that purpose : this tenth they were permitted to retain for their care and labour. Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon waited till the weather was again favourable : they then proceeded on their voyage to the Bay of Salona. Not long afterwards they were landed on the shore of the bay, where they hired horses to carry them to the town of Salona. In this journey of eight or ten miles, they passed along several fertile vallies, and, for a considerable distance, had the famous Mount Parnassus in sight. From Salona they proposed, after having ascended Parnassus, to proceed on horseback, by way of Livadia and Thebes, to Athens. Shortly after they had left the town they began to ascend the ridges of Parnassus, by a bad and rugged path. In about five hours they reached Castri. This they conjectured to have been the ancient city of Delphi, famous for having had a temple of Apollo, and a very remarkable oracle. It is on the south-west side of the mountain, and at some distance from its summit. The high cliffs which were in sight above this place seemed to end in two points, whidh Mr. Wheler judged were the Double-topped Parnassus of the ancients. There were many parts of the mountain much higher ; but, as seen from Delphi, these concealed all the rest. He also observed a plentiful stream of water, which issued from among the rocks at the place of separation of the summits. Near it were several marble steps, and some niches in the rock for statues. Hence Mr. Wheler concluded,, that this was the Castalian fountain, once the imaginary haunt of the Muses. He found several Greek iuscriptions, which con vinced him that his conjectures respecting the city of :><; .SIR GEORGE WHELER's Delphi had been correct. Its ancient glory, however, was now totally extinct. The travellers saw here se veral grottos cut in the rocks, with partitions in them, as if they had once been places of interment ; and at a little distance from these was a church. After having attentively examined the country around Castri, they proceeded towards Leladea, or Livadia, and, being desirous of passing over the summit of Par nassus, they hired a guide to conduct them. Leaving Castri, they began to ascend the western ridge of the cloven summit : the path was winding and bad. From several points of the ascent they had extensive prospects over the plains of Salona and the gulf of Lepanto. On the top of the mountain they found a level surface of considerable extent, which commanded a view over a wide range of country. Between the two summits was a deep precipice, and at the bottom of these they saw the water which ran down to Castalia. On looking upward, the_ highest point of the mountain seemed yet far above them. To this they now directed their course. They passed through many narrow vallies, through woods of pine-trees; and sometimes over, and some times through snow. At length, after a fatiguing journey of several hours, they reached the point on which, according to the tradition of the ancient Pagans, Deucalion saved himself and his wife from the waters of the flood. As soon as tfaey had satisfied their cu riosity they descended on the other side ; and in the course of the day they reached Livadia. Here they were invited to the house of a Greek physi cian, whom they had before seen iu Zante, and wfao had formerly been a cobler in that island. The whole library of this person consisted of one book of receipts. He treated them in an hospitable manner, and pointed out to their notice several mosques and other edifices, where they found Greek inscriptions that sufficiently marked the antiquity of the place. A cave, near Livadia, was anciently celebrated for au oracle of Trophonius. - On the morning of the 25th of January, Mr. Wlieler TRAVELS IN GREECE. ' 57 and Dr. Spon left Livadia, and proceeded to Thebes. 1'he walls of Thebes had all the appearance of great antiquity, and were nearly three miles in circuit. The place contained betwixt three and four thousand inha bitants, of which the greater number were Christians. There were a cathedral, and several churches ; but no remains whatever of ancient inscriptions could be dis covered. In a village at a little distance from Thebes the travellers were shown a church dedicated to St. Luke, and said to contain the tomb of that cvangeUst. Over this tomb was an inscription, indicating it to have been erected in memory of a person whose name was Nedy- mos. The priest, iu reply to a remark by Mr. Wheler, that the inscription showed the tomb to liave belonged to another person, immediately said, that those who placed the body of the saint there had thought it right to put another inscription upon it, that il might thereby be concealed from the knowledge of the Turks I On the ensuing day, Friday, the 27tli of January, the travellers entered the city of Athens; and, alighting from their horses, they wenf'to the house of the English consul there. He invited them to reside with him during the whole time of their continuance, and proved in every respect a friendly and intelligent man. This city, though now reduced to a small and com paratively insignificant town, was once without a rival in magnificence, power, or learning. It is situated on an eminence in the midst of a plain, having the famous mountain Pentelicus about six miles distant, on the north-east ; mount Hymettus, about five miles distant on the south-east ; and the gulf of Egina on the west. The ancient city was surrounded with walls, having the castle, or acropolis, in the middle. The present town extends into the plain to the distance ofa mile and a half from the castle. Of the. inhabitants about three-fourths were at this time Christians, and the rest were Turks. The men sOffered their beards to grow to a great length, and wore high-crowned black d3 68 SIR GEORGE WHELER's hats, made of a thick woollen cloth. Most of them were clad in long black vests, over which they had loose coats, usually lined with fiir. On their legs they wore thin black boots. The women were clad in gar ments which extended to their feet, and were generally of a red colour. These were not girded about them, but hung loose. They had an exterior short vest of silk, or woollen cloth, sometimes cloth of gold, lined with fur, and ornamented with buttons of silver, or of silver gilt, almost as large as walnuts. Their hair was curiously plaited, and braided behind as low as the bending of their knees. There were at this time two hundred churches of different kinds in Athens, of which fifty-two had parti cular priests belonging to them. The remainder were small oratories or chapels, and only open at particular times. There were also several convents. The Turks had five mosques ; four in the town, and one in the castle. Provisions of all kinds were both good aijd cheap : and hares, partridges, and other game, were in great abundance. The wine also was good ; but, as it was cus tomary to put pitch into it to make it keep, it was not palatable to persons unaccustomed to its flavour. The olives were peculiarly excellent. The trade of Athens consisted chiefly in oil, in seeds of different kinds, silk, - and provisions. The Athenians seem to have retained in their language more of the ancient Greek than any other inhabitants of Greece. The monuments of antiquity at this time remaining in Athens were infinitely more magnificent than those of any place in the world, except Rome. Of these, the acropolis, or castle, which is built upon the summit of the rock, is perhaps -the most ancient of any. On en tering the acropolis, the first thing the traveUers ob served was a littie temple built of white marble : it was of the Doric order ; not more than fifteen feet long, and eight or nine feet broad ; and had been dedi cated to Victory icithout wings. This temple now TRAVELS IN GREECE. 59 served the Turks as a magazine for gunpowder. The travellers were next shown a shattered edifice of white marble, which they were informed was the only exist ing part of the armoury of Lycurgus. But by far the most splendid of all the remains of antiquity in Athens was tbe Parthenon, or temple of Minerva. It was near tbe middle of tbe citadel ; was two hundred and seventeen feet long, and ninety-eight broad ; and con sisted entirely of white marble. On every side it was ascended by five steps, and was supported by lofty columns of the Doric order. On the front of the por tico, and on a frieze round the temple, were numerous historical figures of great beauty and admirable work manship. "The entrance was by a lofty door in the middle of the front. The interior was ill lighted, as the only window it had was at the east end ; and even this had been formed by the early Christians who had converted the temple into a church. Several of the columns in the interior are described to have been of jasper, and others of porphyry, with beautiful capi tals of white marble, and of the Corinthian order. It was at this time used by the Turks as a mosque ; and they had white-washed nearly all the beautiful white marble that was within. On one part of the ceiUng was still left a picture of the Holy Virgin, in Mosaic work. The preservation of. this picture was accounted for by a tradition that a Turk once fired a musket at it, and that his hand withered almost immediately after wards ; whence the Turks have ever since been fearful of attempting to injure it. At a little distance north of the Parthenon the tra vellers saw the remains of the Temple of Erectheus. It consisted of two parts, one within the other, and was supported by pillars of the Ibnic order. The tra vellers were not permitted to enter this temple,* as a Turk who resided in it had made it a seraglio for his women. Under the south and exterior side of the castle the traveUers were shown the remains of the Theatre of (50 SIR GEORGE WHELER's Bacchus. It had been of a semicircular form, about two hundred and sixty feet in diameter ; and the seats for the spectators were formed upon the rise of the adjacent rock. In different parts of the rock, be neath the waUs of the castle, were grottos which had been hewn out of the soUd stone. One of these was a little church, called the " Church of our Lady of the Grotto," and was known by three marble pilasters of the Corinthian order, supporting an architrave, on which was a Greek inscription, and above it a figure seated, but without a head. On the south-east side of the castle were still left seventeen Corinthian columns, each fifty-two feet high, called Hadrian's pillars, and reputed by some writers to have been the remains of tbe palace of that emperor, but by others to have been those of the temple of Jupiter Olympius. In the walls of the city was an ancient gate, or arch, called Hadrian's gate; and on the south side of the castle were two Ionic columns supporting a piece of an architrave ; these were the remains of an aqueduct that had been formed by Ha- driau. East of these pillars, and on the opposite side of the river Ilissus, was the Stadium. The way to it was by a bridge of three arches, on which was formerly a monastery. The Stadium was the place where an ciently races were run, wild beasts were fought, and other public games were celebrated. It was probably here that the Athenians chased the thousand wild beasts which Hadrian every year gave to the people for their diversion. Its sh-ape was still discernible, being parallel at the sides, closed up semicircularly at one end and open at the other. Its width was twenty- six or twenty-seven -geometrical paces, and its length was an hundred and twenty-five j whence it had the name of Stadium, that length being an ordinary mea sure among the Greeks. It was built of the marble of mount Pentelicus, by Herodes Atticus, one of the rich est citizens that Athens ever possessed. Tlie ruins of its TRAVELS IN GREECE. tU walls, now covered with earth, looked like a lofty em bankment. Advancing a little further, along the left bank of the Ilissus, Mr. Wheler saw the foundations of a little round temple that had been discovered, not long before, by an inundation of the river, which had done much injury to the Athenians. This he conjectured to have been the Temple of the Ilissian Muses. Somewhat be yond, and on the right bank of the river, he saw an other small temple, which bad subsequently been con verted into a church. The floor was paved with ancient Mosaic work, and the whole fabric was of white marble. This, Mr. Wheler says, was undoubtedly the temple of Diana tlie huntress. Lower down the stream than the Stadium was an other small marble building, at this time dedicated to the Holy Virgin, but in ancient times probably a temple of Ceres. At a little distance west from the castle was a hill anciently called the Musmum, from the poet Musaeus, the disciple of Orpheus, who is said, to have recited his verses, and at his death to have been buried there. On a part of this hill are the remains of an elegant structure in white marble, a monument to the memory of Philopappus, a rich Athenian, descended from the kings of Syria. It had upon it two statues in separate niches ; and beneath these, a representation in relief of a triumphal chariot, with figures before and after it. There were on this monument both Greek and Latin inscriptions. Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon next visited the Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, a rock on which the senate anciently held its sittings in the open air ; and from which St. Paul is related to have preached to the Athenians. On the north side of the city. they, saw the Temple of Theseus, a building somewhat similar to the Partlipnon, but on a smaller scale. The portico was raised on six steps, and was an hundred and one feet long, and forty- four feet and a half broad. This edifice had been erected shortiy after the battie of Marathon. When 62 SIR GEORGE WHELER's the travellers were here it served as a Christian church, and was dedicated to St, George. Within the choir was a piece of a pillar, hollowed at the top, to serve, as Mr. Wheler conjectured, for a font. It had two ancient inscriptions ,u|)on it. Among other remains of antiquity, the travellers were shown the Temple of the Eight Winds. This was an octagonal tower of white marble; and on each side was carved a figure emblematical of the wind which that side corresponded with, and under each figure was a sun-dial. The building was terminated at the top by a little pyramid of marble, which anciently had on the summit a brazen tritou that turned round, and, with a rod, pointed out the quarter from which the wind blew. Towards the west end of the castle was a curious piece of antiquity, called tbe Lantern of Demosthenes. This, according to tradition, was a place in which that celebrated Grecian shut himself up to study; but there seem no sufficient grounds for believing snch to have been the case. The building was small, circular, and of white marble. It had six Corinthian columns, each about nine feet and a half high, which supported a frieze of one circular stone, beautifully carved with figures in relief. Its internal diameter was not quite six feet ; and it was covered with a cupola of one entire stone, with an ornamental summit. These were the principal monuments of antiquity which Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon found remaining in Athens. But they observed numerous iuscriptions in different parts of the place, most of which they tran scribed. They saw likewise several detached statues, aud numerous interesting fragments of antiquity, a few of which Mr. Wheler caused to be shipped for Eng land. Here Frederic observed, that as he had only finished about half his abstract of these travels, it inigld perhaps be considered advisable to defer tiie remainder until TRAVELS IN GREECE. (?,J the ensuing evening. Miss Irwin expressed a wish that he would proceed to the conclusion now; but Sir Charles reminded her that they had another subject to attend to. The night, he said was fine, and would afford tliem a favourable opportunity for some obser vations on the heavens. He informed them that he had already ordered the large telescope to be taken upon the lawn ; and proposed now to adjourn thither. This proposition was so accordant with tbe incUnations of all, even of Miss Irwin, desirous as she was of bear ing the conclusion of the narrative, that Frederic imme diately put away his papers ; and, proceeding thither, they passed the remainder of the evening in the study of astronomy. FOURTH EVENING. Conclusion ©/¦ Wheler's Travels in Greece. As soon as the party was again assembled Frederic thu3 proceeded with his narrative. After about a month's residence in Athens the tra vellers made some excursions into the adjacent country. Their first excursion was to Mount Hymettus, the foot of which is three or four miles south-east of Athens. They faired horses, and, having taken with them provi sions for a day, tbey ascended to the summit, whence they hoped to have had an extensive view of the sur rounding country. But in this they were disappointed, as a snow storm, which came on during their ascent, entirely intercepted the prospect. Subsequently, how ever, they were more successful, and had one of the most delightful scenes before them that can be» ima gined; not only the whole of Attica was within their view, but great part of the Archipelago, and the Morea, as far as the isthmus of Corinth ; and on the other side Negropont, almost to the Euripus. Mount Hy- C4 SIR GEORGE WUELERS mettus is celebrated for the best honey in Greece ; and great quantities of honey are annually sent from this mountain to .Constantinople. . Another excursion which Mr. Wheler and Dr. Spon made was to the sea-coast, about five miles distant, to survey the different harbdurs along the shore. Here they hired a boat and proceeded to the island of Salamis. This island was anciently the kingdom of the valiant Ajax, who (according to Homer) was so powerful, that, in the Trojan war, he furnished twelve ships to the Grecian navy. The travellers saw and copied several inscriptions there. The island was rocky, but the vallies were fer tile. It contained one small town and two villages. Many pine trees grew on the hills, and from these the inhabitants every year made a considerable quantity of pitch. It was in a small island near Salamis that Xerxes caused a silver throne to be erected, on which he sat to witness the battle that was fought between his fleet and the Grecian navy. His ships were defeated, and he with difficulty escaped towards Phaleron. After their return to Athens the travellers resolved to make a more distant excursion to Eleusis, Megara, and Corinth. With this inteution tbey hired a guide and three horses. The English consul accompanied them, and the guide went on foot. They directed their course uorth-westward from Athens; and passed through numerous olive-grounds till they arrived at the foot of the mountains. There were some ruins in different places near the road, but none of them apparently of much importance. At length they came to a spacious plain, along which ran a- causeway paved with large stones, in the interstices of which grew many beautiful anemones of different kinds and colours. This cause way was, in ancient times, called the via sacra, from the processions that were made upou it by the Athenians to the saered mysteries of Ceres at Eleusis. The tra vellers observed many ruins of churches, or temples, as TRAVELS IN GREECE. G5 they went along it. Near the ruins of Eleusis was a little church, dedicated to St. George, and built from the remains of a temple of Diana. It had some beautiful Ionic columns, aud in front two large circular stones, which had been either the pedestals of statues or of columns. There was a Greek inscription on each of them, but much defaced. About four hours after they left Athens, the. tra vellers arrived at Eleusis, or Lepsina, as it is now called. This, in the most flourishing times of Athens, was one of the principal towns of Greece ; but nothing now remained except ruins. The once stately and magnificent temple of Ceres was a heap of ruins so confiised that it was not possible to form any judg ment even of its original shape. From some capitals of pillars, and other fragments which were still visible, it appeared to have been constructed of white marble, in the Ionic order, and in an admirable style, of work manship. Many large stones were observed scattered about, which had been carved with the representation of wheat-ears, and bundles of poppies bound together, the characteristics of Ceres. Among the ruins the travellers found the upper part of a statue of the god dess, that had been beautifully executed in white mar ble. It was at least thrice as large as the human figure. They also observed a small bas-relief, representing the procession which the Athenians were accustomed to make in memory of Ceres going around the world in search of her daughter- Proserpine, who had been stolen by Pluto. Numerous inscriptions were likewise discovered, some of which were dedications to the goddesses Ceres and Proserpine, and some to different emperors. After having examined such of these ruins as were accessible, they set forward on their journey, andj, the same evening, arrived at Megara, a town about two miles distant from the shore of the Saronic Gulf. This, though once a place of considerable extent, consisted at present only of pitiful cottages, the walls of which 06 SIR GEORGE WHELER S were composed of broken stones, or of clay dried in.tbe sun ; the roofs consisted for the most part of faggots spread over with earth. Nearly all the inhabitants were Christians. The chief antiquities that Mr. Wheler ob served at Megara were some fine inscriptions, ^n the walls near the sea was the foundation ofa small square building, which had, on each side of the entrance, a great stone, tlie pedestal, apparently, of a statue. These stones had, engraven upon them, a catalogue of the se veral athletic games, in which the persons whom the statues had represented had been victors. On a rock by the sea-side were the remains of old walls, probably those of some ancient fortress; and near them the ruins of no fewer than twelve Uttle churches. The next morning before day-light the traveUers de parted from Megara in the hope of being able the same day to reach Corinth. Tbey passed over part of the mountain Palaiovouni. The road, which extended in several places almost perpendicularly over the sea, was narrower and more rugged and fatiguing than any along which Mr. Wheler had hitherto travelled. This road was noted, in ancient times, for having- been frequented by the robber Sciron, who, according to tradition, threw thence into the sea all such persons as he had robbed ; till Theseus, happening to pass that way, was too strong for him, and dashed the robber himself down the precipice. About midway, betwixt Megara and Corinth, the travellers observed an ancient monument of octagonal shape, and three or four yards high. Near it lay se veral large slabs of marble, some of which had figures carved upon them in relief, and some were without. Mr. Wheler and his companion were at a loss to con jecture what bad been the origin of this edifice. They now approached the level country, w hich forms the Isthmus of Corinth. This was the ground which, in ancient times, was the subject of many disputes be tween the Athenians and Peloponnesians. It is from four to six miles iu width. The traveUers alighted to TRAVELS IN GREECE. 67 visit the remains of the place where the Isthmian games were anciently celebrated. There were yet to be seen the ruins not only of the town, its walls, and temples, but also of the Isthmian theatre. The travellers reached Corinth before it was dark. This place, which is caUed by the inhabitants Coritho, is situated on the Peloponnesian shore, just within the Isthmus, and distant from the Gulf of Corinth about two miles. The buildings were not close together, but in groups of from six or seven, to ten or twelve and up wards, with gardens of orange, lemon, and cypress trees intermixed. They were neater than the houses in most of the towns of this country. Corinth was de fended by a castle ; and there were two mosques, and one small church. At the latter an archbishop re sided. Among other antiquities which the travellers saw at Corinth were eleven channelled or fluted columns, of the Doric order. Their proportion was uncommon, being about six feet in diameter, and twenty feet high in the shaft. They were so placed as anciently to have formed a portico around a temple. At a little distance from them was a ruin of brick-work ; but whether it had been part of a temple, or of a Roman bath, the travellers were unable to ascertain. They obtained permission to see the castle, which is situated at a little distance from the town, on the sum mit of a lofty rock, and has a very steep and rugged ascent. As Corinth had frequently been plundered by the corsairs, many of the principal inhabitants had houses both in the town and near the castle. In the latter they were enabled to secure their most valuable goods fi-om the attacks of the corsairs ; and thither, on the least alarm, they were accustomed themselves to re treat for protection. There were three or four masques within the walls of the castle, and five or six small churches; but most of the latter were in ruins. The travellers saw here two ancient manuscripts of the 68 SIR GKORGE WHELER's Scriptures. They were written on long sp rolls of parch ment, and rolled upon pieces of wood. There were twio principal gates to the castle, one considerably higher up the rock than the other. The interior wall of the castie was conjectured by Mr. Wheler to be nearly two miles in circuit. From the highest part of the building they bad an extremely beaiitiful and extensive prospect. On tbe following day the travellers mounted their horses and rode over the plain to see the ancient town of Sicyon, now called Basilico, situated near the gulf of Lepanto, and at the distance of about three hours ride from Corinth. They sought for the tomb of Diogenes, the cynic, which anciently stood at the en trance of the town; but hot even a fragment of it re mained there. Basilico was, at this time, little more than a heap of ruins, and was inhabited only by three families of Turks, and about as many of Christians. Mr. Wheler observed here the ruins of a castle, and of many churches and some mosques. He also speaks of having seen the remains of what was called the king's palace; it had been built of bricks, and seemed to have been a very ancient structure. Mr. Wheler con jectured that this appellation was incorrect, and that it had formerly been a bath. There were also several grottos and caverns under the ground, but he had not time to examine them. The travellers set out towards Corinth the same evening, and the next day passed it on their way back to Megara. They thence went again to Athens, where they stayed till the 29th of February, and then left it, with the intention of proceeding to Mount Athos, aud afterwards, through other parts of Greece, into Ger many. After they had left Athens they arrived, in about two hours, at Mount Pentelicus, the famous mountain firom which the ancient Greeks obtained most of their sta tuary marble. Here they were kindly received and TRAVELS IN GREECE. 69 hospitably treated at a convent, one of the most cele brated and extensive in Greece. The weather was ex tremely cold, and was accompanied with both snow and rain ; yet, after the travellers had- taken some re freshment, they proceeded to visit the marble quarries and certain grottos which had been hewn into the sides of the mountain. The latter were at the distance of about a mile from the convent. They were of con siderable depth, and divided into a great number of small cells. These were incrusted with beautiful spars, some of which, by the light of the torches, sparkled like diamonds: their shape and appearance were so extraordinary that the travellers fancied they could discover in them a distant resemblance of trees and woods. The whole mountain was one rock of white marble. From the grottos Mr. Wheler aud his com panion were conducted to the quarries. These were in no other respect remarkable than -from their having yielded the marble for some of the most celebrated structures in Athens. From this place the travellers went towards Mara thon, formerly a place of great celebrity and import ance, but now only an insignificant village. Having passed the town they soon afterwards came to the lake and Plain of Marathon, celebrated in history as the place where the army of Xerxes was defeated with great slaughter, by that of the Athenians under Mil- tiades. The lake was now famous only for very large eels, which bred in it, and which were much in request at the convent on Mount Pentelicus. A little to the north of this lake the shore of Attica makes a considerable promontory, which, in ancien^ times was denominated the Promontory of Chersonesus, and was celebrated throughout Greece for a temple of Nemesis. The ruins of this temple were still -visible upon a hiU in the middle of the promontory : hut they were little more than a confused heap of white marble. The travellers went hence to Negropont , or Egripos, as it is called by the Greeks, near which the Chalcis of 70 SIR GEORGE WHELER's the ancients stood, on a peninsula of the island of Eubcea. This p^eninsula is separated from Boeotia by a narrow strait, oveir which was a small stone bridge of four or five arches, and a draw-bridge. From Egripos they went to Thebes, and afterwards to Livadia. After they had passed this place, the travellers received in telligence that a range of mountains, which they pro posed to cross, were covered with snow and impassable. This circumstance induced Dr. Spon to change his plan of proceeding any further tlirough Greece, and determined him, without delay, to hasten to his own country, by way of Zante and Venice. Mr. Wheler ob jected to crossing the sea at so unfavourable a season; consequently, a few days afterwards, they found it ne cessary to separate. Dr. Spon, passing by Dalea, a town at the foot of Mount Parnassus, embarked for Zante and Venice, and thence returned to France. Mr. Wheler, on tbe contrary, went towards the mouth of. the river Cephesus with an intention, after he had travelled through other parts of Boeotia, of returning to Athens. They parted on Thursday, the 9lh of March ; and Mr. Wheler, proceeding by the towns of Thalanda and Proscina, soon afterwards came to some extraordinary subterraneous passages from the Lake of Lavadia to the Eubcean Sea. These have been justly esteemed among the greatest wonders of the world. They have been partly accomplished by the operations of nature, and partly by those of art. The lake is situated in the midst of a plain ; and the whole country is so enclosed by mountains, that there is not space for the passage of the water above ground to the sea ; and so great is the influx of water from the hills into the lake, that, were it not for these subterraneous channels, the whole surrounding plain would be drowned, and become one immense sheet of water. The present lake has been estimated to measure about forty-seven miles in circuit. Its form is oblong, and narrow in the middle, enlarging towards the south cast end, where it is divided into TRAVELS IN GREECE. 71 three bays. At two of these are the principal channels, pierced in a most extraordinary manner through the mountains. The channels are formed in tbe solid stone, are of considerable height and width, and, in their short est passage, at least four miles in length. There were others at the north-west end of the lake, and of much greater extent. The channels are described by Mr. Wheler to have been at least fifty in number ; and he says that he counted more than half this number him self. From the northern bay of the lake Mr. Wheler was shown the highest point of Mount Parnassus, in a direction westrnorth-west ; and towards the west some part of Mount Helicon. He now crossed the, country by Mount Citheeron to the Gulf of Lepanto; the mountains, through the whole distance, being covered deeply with snow. In his progress he was overtaken by a messenger from the English consul at Athens, to inform hira that an English ship had arrived there, by which he could send home any marbles or other cu riosities that he had collected. The letters that he received earnestly invited him also to return by the same vessel. He sent by it such collections as he had made, but was resolved to proceed to one of the sea ports near the gulf of Lepanto, and to cross by a boat to the island of Zante, whence he hoped he should have no difficulty in obtainuig a passage home. Being near the foot of Mount Helicon, he defer- inined, if possible, to pass over the summit ; but in this project he was disappointed, as the snow had blocked up all the roads. This mountain, which had great celebrity among the ancients, was. now called, by the Turks, Zagara, from the great number of hares which breed ou different parts of it. Other kinds of game, especially wild boats and deer, were very abctidant upon it. Its situation is on the north-east side of the gulf of Lepanto. In ancient times it was consecrated to the Muses. As to the celebrated fountain Hippo* 72 SIR GEORGE WHELER's crene, with which tbe nine sisters are related by the poets to have been so much delighted, if Mr. Wheler was right in his conjectures respecting its situation, the stream was at this time frozen up. On the 10th of April he forwarded a messenger to the port of Aspropitis, to inquire whether there were any. vessels in that port bound for Zante j and the man returning with information that there were two, Mr'. Wheler immediately hastened thither. He arrived the same evening at Aspropitis ; and, having embarked on board one of these vessels, reached Zante the next day about noon. From this island Mr. Wheler soon afterwards^ em barked for Italy. Thence he returned by way of France to England. He landed at Dover, and arrived at Canterbury on the 15th of November, 1676. Here, as he .says, " transported with unspeakable joy at the singular bliss of bis country, relations, and friends, far exceeding any nation he had seen beyond the British seas, he offered to God the sacrifice of praise and thanksgiving, resolving for ever to call upon his great name, who is the only mighty preserver of mankind ; whose providence encompassetb all his creatures ; aud who never faileth them that trust in him." As soon as Frederic Montagu bad terminated his narrative. Miss Irwin, who had been anxiously desirous to ask several questions respecting certain places and facts that were mentioned in it, now commenced her inquiries. She was desirous, in the first place, of being informed at what time, and by whom, the celebrated temple of Apollo, in the island of Delos, had been erected 1 Mr. Allen said, that it had its origin at least fifteen hundred years before the birth of Christ; and tliat it is supposed to have been formed at the united expense of aUthe Grecian potentates. Maria. In reading Plutarch's life of Theseus, I re- TRAVELS IN GREECE. 73 collect that he speaks of an altar in the island of Delos that was built entirely of the left side horns of beasts. Was this very singular altar in the temple of ApoUo ? Mr. Allen, It was ; and from the admirable art witii which it was constructed, it was deemed one of the won ders of the world. The ancients believed it to have consisted of tbe boms of goats killed by Diana on Mount Cynthus; and that these were twisted into a proper form, and fixed without either glue or nails. There was in this temple a colossal statue of Apollo, in marble, twenty-five feet high : the reraains of it may have been those that were seen by Mr. Wheler. Lady Irwin. With respect to the siege of Troy, to which Mr, Wheler in one part of his travels alludes, although Mr. Bryant, (a very ingenious and learned man) some years ago published a work with the inten tion of proving that there never was such a siege, and that no such city ever existed, 1 have not heard that fais opinion has been adopted. Sir Charles. The city to which Mr. Bryant alluded is not the sarae as that described in the present travels, but a city distant from the sea shore nearly thirteen miles. Among other objections, he says, that this city was so far from the place where the Grecians are be- - lieved to have been encamped, that the marches, and counter-marches, and other operations carried on, can not be made to agree with the time allotted to them. Mr. Allen. The controversy, that for a little while was excited by Mr. Bryant's publication, would pro bably never have existed, had it not been for the erro neous maps of the country, which, even to this hour, disgrace our geographical knowledge of Asia. Several travellers have remarked, that from a detail of the topo graphical notices of Homer, and from a comparison of the circumstances which he mentions, the strongest assurance will follow, not only of the existence, but of the situation of Troy. Sir Charles. The history of the Trojan war is evi dently founded in truth, though the detail of facts have Teav. e "74 TRAVELLERS. no doubt been highly embellished by the fancy of Homer. He had no written nor authentic documents of these facts ; and to complete the grand plan of his poem, he was obliged to supply from his own fancy the imperfect accounts of tradition. Mr. Allen. In almost every difficulty that has been , started by Mr. Bryant, too much is expected from the historian, and too Uttle allowed to the poet. Louisa. Will you inform me, sir, what is known respecting the celebrated temple of Diana at Ephesus ? Mr. Allen, It was a most magnificent structure, more than four hundred feet long, and two hundred feet broad, and supported by one hundred and twenty- seven pillars of Parian marble, and of the Ionic order, each sixty feet high. Of these, thirty-six were curiously carved, and the rest were highly polished. The doors and pannels were made of cypress wood polished and shining ; and the stair-case of vine-wood. Its internal decorations were heightened by tbe lustre of gold, and especially by the most perfect productions of the artists of antiquity. The- statue of the goddess was beUeved to have been sent from heaven by Jupiter. W^hen, by extreme age, it became decayed, it was propped by two iron rods, and these were religiously adopted iu the substitute. I ought to remark, that this temple was several times ruined and rebuilt. Louisa. Will you now permit me to inquire respect ing the city of Delphi, whether there is not supposed still to exist some narrow orifice in a rock, over which the pythia or priestess of Apollo was formerly seated upon a tripod to deliver her oracular answers ? Mr. Allen. Dr. Clarke, in his travels, relates, tiiat he had thought the circumstances recorded of the place and manner in which the Pythian oracles were deli vered, would have led him to the discovery of some mephetic exhalation upon the spot, similar to that of the well-known Grotta del Cane, near Naples. He sought and inquired for such a place, but his search was unsuccessful. SIR GEORGE WHELEE. 75 He gives an exceUent account of the Castalian foun tain, near the city of Delphi, and has illustrated it with an engraving. He says, that in journeying throngh Greece, there is nothing likely to affect a literary tra veller more than tlie view of this fountain. Its being easily and surely identified with the inspiring source of Grecian poetry, and at the same time combining great picturesque beauty, with all the circumstances of local interest, added to the illustrations afforded by its pre sent appearance of the manner iuwhich it was originally decorated and revered, render it one of the most im pressive sights which it is possible to behold. The remains of the fountain at this day exhibit a large, square, shallow bason, with steps to it cut in a rock of marble. This was once no doubt the Castalian bath, iu which tbe pythia was accustomed to wash her body, and particularly her hair, before she was placed upon the tripod in the temple of Apollo. In the face of the precipice, which rises to the height of an hundred feet above the fountain, are four niches that have been scooped out of the rock, not particularly for statues, as Mr. Wheler asserts, but for votive offerings. One of these is much larger than the others, and is still. an ob ject of veneration, being now a chapel dedicated to St. John. The other three niches are empty. Louisa. The account of Thebes that Frederic has read is very short. What parts of this once famous city are now existing ? Mr. Allen. There are prodigious ramparts and high mounds of very artificial form on the outside of it ; a deep fosse surrounds it, and traces of its walls may yet be discerned. Though now little more than a vil lage, it is said that a correct topography of the ancient city might be composed from the traces that are still left. The situation of its seven gates might, without difficulty, be ascertained. Though Mr. Wheler could find here no inscriptions, other subsequent travellers have been more successful; and many interesting frag ments of antiquity still remain. Beneath a ruined e2 76 TRAVELLERS. tower, upon the walls on the outside of the town. Dr. Clarke saw an ancient tomb, whicfa had upon it a cu rious bas-relief, representing, in rude sculpture, the figure of a Phtenix perched on the pinnacle of an obelisk. This he was inclined to believe was the Tomb of Hector ; though some writers imagine that this hero was buried under a tumulus. Thebes is supposed to have been originally built by Cadmus, who, according to ancient accounts, flourished 1500 years before the birth of our Saviour.' It was demolished more than 2000 years ago, when Alexander the Great invaded Greece ; and it was afterwards restored, but Uttle was done to it which could have altered the general appear ance of its dykes and ramparts. Maria. Is there not a fabulous notion, that the walls of Thebes were built at the sound of the lyre of Am- phion ? Mr. Allen. Perhaps the notion may not have been altogether fabulous ; for it was a very ancient custom to carry on immense labour by an accompanyment of mu^ic and singing. The custom still continues both in Egypt and Greece. It might, therefore, wth no im propriety, b? said, that the walls of Thebes were built at the sound of the lyre, the only musical instrument which was then in use. Sir Charles. Respecting the pretended tomb of St. Luke, which Mr. Wheler speaks of having seen in a church near Thebes, Dr. Clarke relates, that he saw it in December, 1801, and that the Greeks were then as ignorant respecting it as their predecessors had been in Mr. Wheler's time. Louisa. I was much disappointed that Frederic, speaking of the cave near Lebadea, only said that it " was anciently celebrated for an oracle of Trophonius." I ara aware that Trophonius was a Grecian architect, who was believed fo have been swallowed up alive into the earth ; and that, whenever afterwards the country was visited by great drought, the inhabitants of the adjacent towns and villages were directed to apply to SIR GEORGE WHELER. ' 77 him for relief, and to seek him at Lebadea, where he gave oracles iu a cave, and where he was honoured as a god. I should like to know something respecting the present state of this cave. Mr. Allen. Among aU that now remains of the an tiquities of Greece, there is none better authenticated than this most curious place. The mouth of the cave, from which the pretended oracles were delivered., is in the side ofa perpendicular rock, and shaped almost like the mouth of an oven, and is close to the ground. Dr. Clarke visited it in the year 1801, and says, that it was then nearly closed up with rubbish. Some of the rub bish he and Mr. Cripps, the gentleman witii whom he travelled, partly removed ', so that the latter was ena bled to introduce his whole body into the cavity. Here, being provided with a long pole, and thrusting it be fore him, he found the passage to be closed on all sides. In the face of the rock, near the cavern, yrere several cavities which had been grooved out for the reception of votive offerings ; and about six feet from the ground was a small chamber, which also had been hewn out of the solid rock. In front was a square bath, the interior of which was faced with large hewn stones and pieces of marble. Louisa. This account is very satisfactory. I fear my questions may not only be troublesome, but that the answers to them may occupy too great a portion of the evening : yet they are illustrative of subjects of an cient history, the explanation of which, as connected with the modern state of these celebrated places, is so interesting that I hope they may be excused. ' '- Sir Charles. In thus somewhat deviating from our plan for the purpose of illustrating important points of history, our time is at least u,sefully occupied : biit we must not extend the digression too far, lest %e alto gether lose sight of our chief subject. Maria. Will you permit me to ask, whether irtany remains of antiquity were not brought from Athens to England by the earl of Elgin ? 78 TRAVELLERS. Sir Charles. There were : in the Elgin collection of marbles, now deposited in the British Museum, there are several of the ornamental parts of the Parthenon or Temple of Minerva. There are also many beautiful fragments from other ancient structures in Athens, and casts in plaster of Paris from figures on the temple of Theseus, and the monument generally called the Lan tern of Demosthenes. Louisa, It appears to me not only injudicious, but injurious, thus to take away, from their original situ ations, and carry into distant countries, tbe most in teresting parts of ancient edifices. If such practice had generally been adopted, there would not, at this day, have existed a single impOrtailt piece of antiquity in its original situation; and the means of iUustrating historical facts, by the examination of these by traveUers, wfould, in many instances, have been wholly wanting. After the devastation which has lately been made in the public edifices of Athens, these edifices must now . appear very different from what they did when Mr. 'Wheler was there. Sir Charles, Certainly nothing could excuse dilapi dations like these but the deplorable inattention of the Turkish government to the preservation of any mona- ments of antiquity. The buildings, in tbe course of many successive ages, had suffered irreparable injuries; and if they had been left, the parts which have been thus preserved would, probably, in a few years have been for ever lost. Most of them were there exposed to the weather : they are now sheltered and preserved from injury ; and, though they are seen detached, their parts are brought within the reach of the eye, which, in many instances at least, w as not the case when in their original situations. But let us return to the account of Mr. Wheler. Frederic, I have already observed that the incidents which have been recorded concerning him are few. Not long after his return from Greece he received the ho nour of knighthood. He presented to Lincoln CoUege, SIR GEORGE WHELER. 79 Oxford, iu which he had been educated, a valuable col lection of Greek and Latin manuscripts that he had collected during his travels ; aud in 1683 the degree of Master of Arts was conferred upon him by the Univer sity of Oxford. Edmund'. And he, singular as it may appear, being then a knight, entered into holy orders, and was made a prebend of the cathedral church of Durham. He after wards was appointed to the vicarage of Basingstoke, in Hampshire, and to the rich rectory of Houghton-le- Spring, in the county of Durham. Frederic. Not long after he had entered into orders, he published " an account of the churches and places of assembly of the primitive Christians ;" and; subse- quentiy, a work containing directions for the religious conduct of a family. The only two remaining events of his life, that I have seen recorded, are, that he was created a doctor of divinity in the year 1702, and died on the 18th of February, 1723-4. He was interred at the west end of the nave of the cathedral church of Durham, and, by his own desire, as near as possible to the tomb of tbe venerable Bede, for whom he had an almost enthusiastic veneration. Mr. Allen. His travels, though not abounding in inci dent, are highly valuable for their authenticity ; and they are replete with sound and instructive erudition. They were published in a quarto volume, in the year 1682. Sir George Wheler appears also to have been attentive to the natural history of Greece ; and his explanatory catalogues of the plants of that couutry sufficiently evince his knowledge of the botany of his time. He brought into England many plants which had not previ ously been cultivated in Britain. His name is preserved in London by fais having built a chapel on his estate in Spitalfields, known by the name of Sir GeorgeifVheler's Chapel. At the close of the conversation Miss Irwin observed, that for some days past she had been attentively occu- 80 . TRAVELLERS. pied in perusing Maundrell's Travels from Aleppo to Jerusalem. These, she said, had been put info her hands by Lady Irwin, and had been read without any reference to the present conversations. But when she had finished the book, she found that she had acquired so much important knowledge relative to places and circumstances mentioned in the Sacred Writings, that she had been induced to look over it a second time, and to commit to writing a connected abstract of its contents. If she had permission to do so, she said it would afford her great pleasure to read this abstract some evening before the close of the present conversa tions. Frederic proposed that it should be read on the ensuing evening. This being unanimously assented to, Miss Irwin said she would not fail to correct and have it ready by that time. FIFTH EVENING. In reference to the Travels which she had proposed to read. Miss Irwin now recoUected that she was so fer irregular that she had no account to communicate re specting the~ author. For this she apologized, and requested permission to withdraw ber narrative. An unanimous objection was made to her doing so. Fre deric and Edmund each stated, that, to prepare them selves for the discussion, they had searched aU the biographical works in Sir Charles Irwin's library, but had not been able to discover any memoranda whatever relative to Mr. Maundrell. Lady Irwin said, that, in his travels, he described himself as the Rev. Henry Maundrell, A.M. late fellow of Exeter College, Ox ford ; and chaplain to the English Factory at Aleppo. Mr. Allen. From tbe same work it appears that he was nephew of Sir Charles Hedges, Knight, formerly judge of the High Court of Admiralty. Sir Charles, This may be nearly all the account that rev. henry MAUNDKLLL. 81 f is extant coucerning him; but his travels. are so impor tant, as affording a valuable geographical evidence of the truth of the Christian Religion, that, notwithstand ing this defect, we must not excuse Louisa from read ing her account of them. Louisa. I always consider myself happy, sir, when my conduct or exertions in any respect afford you satis faction. But previously to reading the paper I have prepared, it may not be unnecessary to state some .cir cumstances rektive to the mode of travelling in the East. It differs very much from ours : a person there cannot arrive at a market town and inns every night as he would iu England ; and the best reception he is to look for is either under his own tent, if the season will permit, or in certain public lodguigs which have- been founded by charitable individuals for the use of tra vellers. These have the name of khans, and are situ ated sometimes in towns and villages, and sometimes in the country, at convenient distances upon the road. Maria. And what kind of places are they, Louisa? Louisa. They are buildings encompassing a square court; and of size, greater or less according to the abUity or charity of the founder. At these places tra veUers of every description are permitted to lodge, on payment only of a small fee to the khan keeper, and often even without that. Maria. And is the traveller well supplied with food in them for this small fee ? Louisa. No ; he must, in general, expect nothing but bare walls. All the accoramodations of provisions, bed, and fire, he must furnish or obtain for himself. Mr. Allen. The khan is nearly similar to what in Persia, and some other countries of the east, is called a caravansera. Louisa, It appears that Mr. Mauiidrelt ha^ been ap» pointed chaplain of the English factory at Aleppo, in the year 1696. Soon after he had arrived at that city,, to assume his duty there, he was invited by a party of ' e a ^ . V 82 maundrell's English gentlemen to accompany them on a visit to the Holy Land, at the approaching feast of Easter, 1697 ; and he accepted tbe invitation. Narrative of MAVliT>B.zijh's Travels in the Holy Land. The gentlemen set out from Aleppo, fifteen in number, on the 26th of February ; and travelled in a westerly di rection. Early in the following day they reached a large village called Keftein, situated in the midst of an exten sive plain, which abounded in com-fields, vineyards, and olive trees. The next place they arrived at was a large and filthy town called Shogr, on the bank of the river Orontes. Here they lodged in a khan, which was so richly endowed that every traveller was supplied with bread, broth, and meat, without expense. "The khan was at this time crowded with Mahometan pilgrims, who were on their journey to Mecca, the burial-place of their prophet. Leaving Shogr the travellers proceeded still in a westerly direction. The road sometimes extended through cool and refreshing groves, sometimes along l'6xuriant vallies, and in other places along the brink oif precipices. Their journey was rendered deligbtfol, not only by this frequent change of scenery, but also by numerous shrubs, flowers, and aromatic herbs, which filled the air with their perfume. Myrtles, oleanders, cyclamens, anemonies, tulips, and marigolds, were also in great abundance on every side. A few days after this the travellers suffered much inconvenience from heavy rains, which not only drenched them to the skin, but considerably impeded their pro gress, by causing the rivers to overflow their banks. On 'Fliursday, the 4th of March, however, they reached the town of Gebilee, or Gabala, of the ancients, situated on the seacoast, and at the edge of an extremely fertile plain. They passed a day at this place to rest and re fresh themselves after their fatigues. They then proceeded southward {dong the sea-coast. travels in THE HOLY" LAND. 83 and passed through Banea and Tortosa. The latter to-wn, which had anciently been denominated Orthosia, was a place of great strength at the time of the Cru sades ; and considerable reraains of its castle and walls were still existing. The travellers passed some ancient burying places and tombs ; and, on the 9th of March; they entered the city of Tripoli, where they remained a week. Tripoli is situated about half an hour's journey from the sea. The greater part of the city lies between two, hills; and, at the summit of tha eastern part of it, there was, at this time, a castle, which commanded the whole place. Across the valley extended a handsome and lofty aqueduct, by which it was supplied with water. At a little distance from Tripoli the travellers visited a convent of Christians of the Greek church, situated on a lofty mountain overlooking the sea. They arrived before tbe time of evening service, and noticed a cus tom prevalent in this part of the world, of collecting the congregation, by beating a kind of tune with two mallets, on a long pendulous plank, at the church door ; for bells are held in detestation by the Turks. - The service was performed in a precipitate, and apparently very irreverent manner. The priest who officiated oc cupied at least one-third part of his time in walking round the altar, and perfuming it with incense. He then passed round the congregation, swinging fais in cense-pot backward and forward, and throwing - its smoke, with three successive vibrations, to every per son present. Towards the conclusion of the service, a small table, covered with a linen cloth, was brought into the body of the church. On this table were placed five cakes of bread in the form of a cross, and in the centre of each cake was fixed a small lighted wax taper. The priest read the gospel concerning our Lqrd feeding the multitude with five loaves. The bread was then carried out, and broken into pieces: it was again brought in, and every person in the congregation was presented with a small bit. After this the priest pro;. ff4 MAUNDRELLS nounced the blessing, and the service ended. At the sides of the church were a kind of stalls, somewhat hke those in the choirs of our cathedral churches, but with out seats. In each stall were placed crutches, for the monks to lean upon, as they were not permitted to sit ; and the service was sometimes so long, that they could not go through the whole of it without such relief. Tripoli is considered to have been anciently a cluster of three cities, situated at the distance of about a fur long from each other. Of these the first was a seat of the Aradii, the second .of tfae Sidonians, and tbe third of the Tyrians. Hence it is probable that Tripoli was a name given at first to three distinct but adjacent places, built by the united interests of Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus. On the 15tb of March the travellers left this place, and proceeded southward along tfae shore. They passed some sepulchres cut out of rocks in a faigfa promontory that stretched to a considerable distance into the sea. On the following night tbey slept in their tents ; but the weather was so tempestuous that tbey bad great difficulty in preventing them from being blown awav. A river near which their tents were pitched was called Ibrahim Bassa, and was no doubt that which, in ancient times, was famous for the idolatrous rites performed in lamentation of Adonis. A heavy fall of ram which occurred during tfae time the traveUers were here gave them an opportunity of ascertaining a circumstance, relative to this river, which is mentioned by Lucian, that at certain seasons of the year, particularly about the feast of Adonis, it assumed a bloody colour. This the heathens considered to proceed from a kind of sympathy in the river for the death of Adonis, who was beUeved to have been slain by a boar in the mountains, among which the stream rises. A circumstance some what resembling this the travellers themselves w itness- cd ; for the water, after the r.dn, was tinged of a deep red colour so as even to discolour the sea to a consi derable distance from the shore ; but this was evideotiv TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 85 occasioned by a red sort of earth that had been washed from the mountains by tbe rain. They next crossed the river Lycus, -or Nahor Kelp, as it is called by the Turks ; and soon afterwards came to a rocky promontory, which had a passage across it a,bout two yards wide. This passage had been cut by order of Antoninus, the Roman emperor. There was an inscription in Latiu on a particular part of the rock, to perpetuate the remembrance of so useful au under taking. Against the sides of the rock, in various places, were figures cut in relief. These the travellers were compelled to pass without examination, in consequence of an approaching storm of thunder and rain. A little distance from Bairout they crossed a plain near the sea, where tradition relates that St. George fought with and slew the dragon. In memory of this achievement it is related that a small chapel was built on the spot, and was dedicated to St. George; but this, long before the travellers were here, had beeii converted into a mosque or Mahometan place of wor ship. Passing the town of Sidon, or Saide, as it is now. called, they entered the precincts of the Holy Land, Of Sidon it is remarked, that although it still con tinued a populous place, yet, both in extent and splen dour, it was greatly inferior to what it anciently had been. Tfais appeared from numerous beautiful columns, and other repiains of antiquity which were scattered about the grounds on the exterior of the w^Us. On the day after the travellers left Sidon, they ob served a large column of granite lying across the' high way, with a Roman inscription upon it. .\t the end of about two hours and a half after they had passed this column, they arrived at Sarphan, This is supposed to have been tfae site of the ancient city of Sarvpta, or Zarephath, so famous for the residence and miracles of the prophet' Elijah. The place now consists only of a few houses, situated on the top of a mountain about half a mile from the sea ; but It' is probable that the 86 maundrell's chief part of the ancient city stood below, in a space between the hills and the shore. About ten miles south of Sarphan tfaey came to the ancient, and formerly magnificent city of Tyre, seated on a peninsula, which projected a considerable way into tbe sea. From a distance it had still a fine appear ance ; but. when the traveUers approached, they found it wholly destitute of that grandeur for which, in an cient times it was so much renowned. On the north side was a Turkish castle; but, except this, nothing was to be seen but ruins. There was not even a single house entire ; the few inhabitants that were left shel tered themselves in the vaults of the ruins, and subsisted chiefly by fishing. The prophecy in Ezekiel concerning this place has been strikingly iiilfiUed. " I will make thee like the top of a rock : thou shalt be a place to spread nets upon : thou shalt be built no more." In the midst of the ruins there stood one pile higher than the rest. This wa^ the east end ofa great church,- pro bably the cathedral of Tyre ; for, in the times of the early Christians, Tyre was an archiepiscopal see. The island of Tyre, in its natural state, seems to have been of circular form, and not to have contained more than forty acres of ground. Some of the founda tions of the wall that anciently encompassed it are stiU left. The isthmus which connected the city to the shore was sandy, and nearly a mile in length. Leaving Tyre on the 21st of March, the travellers passed some ancient cisterns, whicfa, according to the tradition of the country, had been constructed by Solomon, as part of a recorapense to Hiram, king of Tyre, for supplies that were sent by him towards the building of the temple ; but thy were of much later date than the time of Solomon. The travellers arrived on the same day at Acre, a tovvn situated on a plain of great extent. " This plain, which is bounded towards the south by Mount Carmel, was watered by many tine streams, and was pleasant and fertile ; but almost wholly destitute of cultivation. TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 87 Acre had anciently the name of Accho, and was one of the places from which, as it is recorded in the Book of Judges, the children of Israel were not able to expel the primitive inhabitants; and, having been in after times enlarged by Ptolemy the First, it was called by him Ptolemais. The Turks gave to it the name of Acre. It was strongly fortified, and had -been a place of frequent contention during the wars between the Christians and infidels. At length, after a protracted siege, it had been taken by the Turks, and had ever since continued in their possession. Besides a large khan, a mosque, and a few poor cottages, the town exhibited at this time little more than a vast and spacious ruin. There were considerable remains of the cathedral church, and of some other churches and convents. The travellers, having hired a compEiny of Turkish soldiers to protect them from the attacks of the Arabs, in their journey from this place to Jerusalem, left Acre on Monday the 22d of March. They proceeded along , the bay for some distance, and then, leaving the sea coast, bent their steps in an easterly direction into the interior of the country. At the end of about two hours they arrived at " that ancient river, the river Kishon," which runs along the plain of Esdraelon, and, passing by Mount Carmel, falls into the sea, at a place called Caiff'a, The plain of Esdraelon was of vast extent and very fertile, but uncultivated, and only served the Arabs for pasturage. Shortly after this they arrived within view of Nazareth, and the two Mounts Tabor and Hermon; and they were sufficiently instructed by ex perience wfaat the psalmist meant by the " dew of Hermon,'' for their tents were as wet with it as if it had rained all night. Here -they found themselves situated between the camps of two rival tribes of Arabs, and experienced no inconsiderable degree of alarm from being between such dangerous neighbours. They, however, paid a certain sum, which was imposed upon them by the chief of one of the tribes, and were suffered to proceed. The next 88 .maundrell's day they arrived at Sebasta, (anciently Samaria), the imperial city of tfae ten tribes, after tfaeir revolt from tfae faouse of David. It lost its former name in the time of Herod tfae Great, wfao raised it from a ruinous state to be a magnificent city, and named it Sebasta, in honour of Augustus Caesar. It is situated on a hill, and is surrounded by a fertile vaUey, and, at a distance, by mountains. When tbe travellers were here, nearly the whole place had been converted into gardens, and all the remains of its ancient magnificence were the ruins of a square piazza, encompassed with pillars, and the ruin of a church, said to have been erected by Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, over the place where St. John the Baptist was imprisoned and be headed. In the body of the church the traveUers were conducted down a stair-case into the dungeon, where they were informed the inhuman transaction took place. The Turks held this prison in great veneration, and had erected over it a small mosque. The travellers next arrived at Naplosa, or AeapoUs', the ancient Sychem, or Sychar, as it is termed in the New Testament. It is situated in a narrow vaUey, be tween Mount Gerizim on the south, and Mount Ebal on tfae north. On the former the Samaritans, whose chief residence was at Sychem, had still a smaU temple or place of worship. While Mr. Maundrell was at Naplosa he visited the chief priest of the Samaritans, in order to converse with faim on some disputed points relative to their religious rites and customs ; and on some:particulars illustrative of the Scripture history. Naplosa, when compared with its ancient state, was at this time a very small place. Though its inhabitants were numerous it consisted of littie more than two streets. Proceeding eastward, along a narrow valley, between the two mountains of Gerizim and Ebal, Mr. Maundrell was shewn a small mosque, which was said to have been erected over the sepulchre of Joseph, " in a parcel of ground which Jacob bought of the sons of Hanior, the TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 09 father of Shechem," and wfaich stiU went by the name of Joseph's sepulchre. About three quarters of an hour afterwards Mr. Maundrell and his friends arrived at Sychar, near which was Jacob's Well, famous not only on account of the patriarch who constructed it, but also for the me morable conference which our blessed Lord had there with the woman of Samaria, as described by St. John. Over the well there formerly stood a large church, erected by the empress Helena ; but of this the foun dations only remained. The well itself was covered with an ancient stone vault. From Jacob's Well the road lay southward along a spacious and fertile valley. The travellers rested, on the following night, at a khan, built on the east side of a luxuriant valley; and 'the next day tbey passed through a mountainous, barren, and rocky country. This con tinued to.a considerable distance, and was interspersed in different parts with many ancient and ruined villages. In the course of the day they ascended to the top of one Of the adjacent hills ; and thence had a prospect of Jerusalem. Rama, anciently called Gibeah of Saul, was within view on the right ; and the plain of Jericho, and the mountains of Gilead, were on the left. They arrived ou the same day at the waUs of the Holy City, but were forbidden to enter, until permission was obtained from the governor. Directions were given them to pass along the western waU, to the Bethlehem Gate. Here, at the return of the messenger who faad been sent, they entered. Having letters of introduction to the French consul, they went ta bis house. He re ceived and treated them in the most generous and hos pitable manner imaginable ; and requested them to con sider his house as their home during the -whole time they continued in Jerusalem. "The next day, being Good Friday, Mr. Maundrell and his friends accompanied this gentleman' to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, The doors were guarded by 'Turkish officers, to prevent the entrance of all persons 90 "twaundrell's who did not pay a stipulated sum, as the price of their admission, during the approaching fast and festival. This, for ecclesiastics, was seven dollars, and for other persons fourteen dollars, each. Numerous pilgrims were assembled at the church on Good Friday. As soon as aU had been admitted, the doors were locked ; and they were not again opened till Easter Day. Mr. Maundrell and his party were thus kept in close confinement for three days. This time they passed in viewing the ceremonies practised by the pilgrims, and in visiting and examining many sacred places. The church of the Holy Sepidchre is situated ou Mount Calvary, a small eminence on Mount Moriah. Having been anciently appropriated to the execution of malefactors, it was on that accotmt shut out from the walls of the city, as a poUuted place. But after it had attained its sacred character, from having been the place of sacrifice of the Redeemer of mankind, it be came so much reverenced, and was resorted to with so much devotion by all Christians, that it faas attracted the city round it, and now stands in tfae midst of Jeru salem. For tfae founding of a church here, it was requi site to reduce the surface of the hill to a level area. This was, done by cutting down several parts of the rock and elevating others; but care was taken that those parts which were more immediately the scene of the sufferings of our blessed Lord should in no respect be either diminished or altered. Thus that part of Calvai^, where the cross of Christ is said to have been fixed, is left entire; being ten or twelve yards square, and standing so high above the floor of the church, that there is an ascent to it of twentj'-one steps. And tfae faoly sepulchre itself, which was at first a cave hewn into the rock under ground, is now, as it were, a grotto above ground. . The church is not quite an hundred paces long and sixty wide ; and yet it is so contrived as to contain, within its walls, according to the accounts that were given travels in the HOLY LAND. 91 to Mr. Maundrell, nofewer than twelve or thirteen places, each noted for some particular action or circumstance relative to the death and resurrection of Christ. 1. Tfae place wfaere he was derided by the soldiers ; 2. where the soldiers divided his garments ; 3. wfaere he was shut up whilst they dug a hole to set the foot of tfae cross in, and made preparations for his crucifixion ; 4. where he was nailed to the cross ; 5. where the cross was erected ; 6. where the soldier stood who pierced his side ; 7. where his body was anointed previously to his burial; 8. where his body was deposited in the sepulchre ; 9. where the angels appeared to the women after his resurrection; 10. where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalene, &c. The places, where these and other circumstances relative to our blessed Lord oc curred, were all distinguished, at the time that Mr. Maundrell was here, by so many altars. In various galleries round the church, and also in several little buildings annexed to the outside, were cer tain apartments for the reception of friars and pilgrims; and in these almost every Christian nation anciently main tained a small society of monks. When Mr. Maundrell was here all except four of these societies had forsaken their quarters, not having been able to pay the severe rents and taxes which the Turks imposed upon them. The ceremonies, which commenced on the night of Good Friday, and were conducted by the Roman Ca tholics, were as follow. As soon as the evening- began to close, the friars and pilgrims were convened in tbe Chapel of the Apparition (a small oratory on the' north side of the holy sepulchre) in order to walk in proces sion round the church ; but, before they set out, one of the friars preached a sermon in the Italian language in tfae chapel. He began his discourse thus : " In questa notte tenebrosa ;'' at which words all the candtes were put out, and the congregation remained in the dark for about half an hour, till the end of the sermon. After this every person present bad a lighted taper put into his hand. At the head of the procession was carried a 92 MAUNDRELL S crucifix, which had upon it an image of our Lord as large as the life. The image was festened' with great nails ; it was crowned with thorns, and besmeared witfc blood. Other crucifixes, together with various allego rical representations of his sufferings, were also carried ' in the procession. The first place which was visited was that of the Pillar of Flagellation. Here an appropriate hymn was sung ; and one of the friars preached a sermon in tbe Spanish language, concerning the scourging of our Lord. As soon as this was concluded, they proceeded to the place called the Prison of Christ, where, it was said, he had been secured till preparation was made for his crucifixion. Here likewise an hymn was sung ; and a friar preached a sermon iu French. From tfae prison they went to the Altar of the Division of our Lord's Garments, where only an hymn was sung. They next advanced to the Chapel of Derision; at which, after an hymn, tfaey faad a fourth sermon in French. From this place they ascended to Calvary, leaving their shoes at the bottom of the stairs. Here were two altars : one where Christ is supposed to have been nailed to the cross ; and the other where the cross was erecteci. At the former of these the grc&t crucifix was laid upon the floor, and a ceremony was performed resembUng that of nailing our Lord to the cross. An hymn was then sung; after which one of the friars preached a sermon on the crucifixion. Hence they removed to the adjoin ing altar, where the cross is supposed to have been erected. Here, in a hole of the rock, they set up the crucifix; and tfae father guardian, sitting in a chair before it, preached, in Italian, a sermon on tfae passion. When this sermon was ended, two friars, one of them personating Joseph of Arimathea, and the other Nico- demus, approached tfae crucifix, aud, with a solemn air, drew out the nails, and took the apparent body from the cross. This was so contrived that the limbs were soft and flexible; and Mr. Maundrell was surprized to see the two friars beud down the arms, which were be- TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 93 fore extended, and dispose them upon the breast, as is usuaUy done with corpses. After this ceremony, the body was laid in a large winding-sheet, and carried from Calvary to the Stone of Unction, the place where it is pretended the body of our Lord was anointed, and pre pared for burial. Heie they laid down the apparent body, and, throwing upon it some sweet powders and spices, wrapped it iu a winding-sheet. During this cere mony an hymn was sung ; after which one of the friars preached, in Arabic, a funeral sermon. The figure was next laid in the sepulchre; the door of which was closed till tfae morning of Easter. And now, after so many sermons, and such numerous ceremonies, it may well be imagined that the weariness of the congregation, as well as the late hour of the night, rendered it necessary that they should retire to rest. The next day being Saturday, and nothing ex traordinary taking place, many of the pilgrims had leisure to have their arms marked with certain figures, indicative of their having visited the holy city. These figures were made by innumerable small punctures with needles dipped in a composition of gunpowder and ox gall. In the afternoon of this day the congregation assembled in the area before the holy grave; where the friars passed some hours in singing the lamentations of Jeremiah. Early in the morning of Easter Sunday the sepulchre was opened. The semblance of mourning haying been put off, the friars now assnined an appearance of joy. Mass was celebrated before the sepulchre. On this occasion tfae father guardian sat upon a throne, and was arrayed in episcopal robes, with a mitre on his head. The whole of this office being ended, the con gregation left the church, and Mr. Maundrell and his friends went to the convent, where they dined with the friars. After dinner they visited the most remarkable places on the exterior of the city walls. They began with those on the north side. The first place they were con- 94 maundrell's ducted to was a large grotto on the outside of the Damascus gate. This they were told had for some time been the residence of the propfiet Jeremiak, and was the place where he wrote his Lamentations. It was now a college of Dervises, and was held in great veneration by the Turks and Jews, as weU as by the Christians. The next places they visited were certain grottos, called the Sepulchres of the kings, but for what reason Mr. Maundrell was unable to conjectnre^ it being certain that neither of the kings, either of Israel or Judah, could have been buried here, except perhaps Hezekiah. But for whomsoever they might have been built they could not have been constructed without great expense. They were six or seven in number, one within another, and all cut out of a solid rock of mar ble. In each, except the first, was a stone coffin placed in a nich in the side. From these sepulchres Mr. Maundrell and his friends returned towards the city ; and near Herod's Gate they were shewn a grotto fiitt of water and mire ; whicfa, they were told, was the dun geon in which Jeremiah had been imprisoned by order ofZedekiah. Miss Irwin, here terminating the account of Jeru salem, proposed to conclude her narrative on the fol lowing night. SIXTH EVENING. Conclusion of Maundrell's Ti-avelsin the Holy Land. At the usual hour the party met iu the Ubrary, and Miss Irwin, at the request of Sir Charles, thus pro ceeded : — The next day, being Easter Monday, the governor of the city set out, according to an annual custom, accom panied with a guard of soldiers, to convey the pUgrims TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 95 from Jerusalem to the riicj- Jordan. The whole num ber that went was about two thousand. They crossed the Valley of Jehosaphat, and part of Mount Otitet. In half an hour they came to Bethany, now only a small village. Here they were shown a sepulchre, supposed to have been that from wfaich Lazarus was raised by our Lord from the dead. About a stone's cast from this place the guides directed the attention of the pilgrims to a spot, on which, they said, the habitation of Mary Magdalene had been si tuated. After they had proceeded some hours, they came to a rocky, barren, and mountainous desert, into whicfa, as they were told, our Saviour was led to be tempted by the devil. From the top of an adjacent hill the tra vellers had a deUghtful prospect of the mountains of Arabia, of the Dead Sea, and the Plain of Jericho. They descended into the latter; and, in the evening, arrived at Jericho, at this time a dirty and insignificant village, inhabited by Arabs. Here they were shown the placewhere it was believed the faouse of Zaccheus formerly stood. They encamped near Jericho, and there took up their abode for tbe night. Early in the following morning they set out for the river Jordan ; and arrived at its western bank in about two hours. The adjacent plain was so barren as to produce only a kind of samphire, and other similar plants. In many places of the road, where puddles of water had stood, there was an incrustation of salt ujton the ground. About a furlong off the river they were shown the remains of a convent, dedicated to St. John, in memory of his baptising our blessed Lord. The river was here so insignificant, and its banks were so beset with bushes and trees, that no water could be seen till these had been passed. Noisooner had the- travellers arrived at the water, and dismounted from their mules, than tbey were alarmed by the appear ance of some troops of Arabs on the opposite side. These fired at the pilgrims, but from too great a dis- 96 maundrell's tance to do them any injury. Considerable alarm,-how- ever, was excited, but this was soon over, as the Arabs made no further attack. The pilgrims then proceeded to occupy theraselves each in the way tfaat best suited his inclination. Some stripped and bathed in the river; others cut branches from the trees ; and every one was employed in preparing to take away with him some memorial of this famous stream. The water was very turbid, though the current was so rapid that no one could swim against it. The width of the river at this place was supposed to be about twenty yards. As they were not far distant from the Dead Sea, Mr. Maundrell and his friends, with several of the pilgrims, expressed a desire to go thither. They applied for permission to the governor, their commander in chief; and he not only granted this permission, but appointed a guard to protect them. The Dead Sea is enclosed, on the east and west, by high mountains; on the north it is bounded by the plain of Jericho ; and towards the south it is open, and extends beyond the reach of the eye. It is said to he more than seventy miles long, and to be eighteen or twenty miles broad. On the shore of this lake was found a kind of mineral substance, which looked like black pebbles. These, on being held in a flame, readily took fire, and yielded a , smoke of intolerable stench. They had the singular property of losing only their weight and not their bulk by burning. The hills in the vicinity of the lake were said to abound in these sulphureous or bituminous stones. Mr. Maundrell saw pieces of them whicfa were two feet square, and which had been used as building stones. They were carved in relief, and were as highly polished as black marble. Mr. Maundrell remarks, that it was ^fenerally be lieved that the water of this sea was of so deadly a nature that uo bird could fly over it without perishiug, and that uo fish, uor any other animals could live in it. This notion, however, was evidently fabulous, for he TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 97 saw many birds fly over and about the sea, without suffering any apparent inconvenience ; and he saw, among the pebbles on the shore, the shells of animals somewhat resembling oysters, which had been cast up by the waves. This sea is famous for having bitumen, a kind of mineral pitch,, floating on its surface. Mr. Maundrell did not observe any at the place where he was, but he says that it was gathered near the mountains, on both sides of the sea, iu great plenty. The water of the Dead Sea was very clear, but was extremely salt, bitter, and nauseous to the taste. On the west "side of it was a small promontory, near which, as the guides informed the travellers, the monument of Lot's Wife faad formerly stood : tfaey even asserted that part of it was still visible. At half-past two in the morning of the 31st of March the party set out on their return to Jerusalem. They arrived on the same day at the walls, but did nOt enter tfae city, as they proposed first to visit the town of Bethlehem, distant eight o^ nine miles towards the south. With this intention they passed along the Valley of Jehosaphat, Beyond this the road passed througfa the Valley of Rephaim, famous as the scene of David's victories over the Philistines. In their joilrney they were shown the place where stood the faouse of the venerable old prophet Simeon ; a well near whicfa tbe star was believed to have first appeared to the Eastern Magi ; and the place where Rachel was buried, as men tioned in the fifteenth chapter of the Book of Genesis. On the arrival of Mr. Maundrell and his friends at Bethkhem, they made the' tour of all the curiosities of that place, and neighbourhood. Among others they were shown the place, now converted into a chapel, where it was believed our blessed Lord was born. iThe guides even pretended to exhibit the manger itt which he lay. They also pointed out the chapel of Joseph, fais supposed father ; and, at the distance of about five miles south of the village, they conducted the traveller,* to /the remains of the famous -fountains, pools, and gar- - Trav. f 98 maundrell's den.s, wfaich had been the contrivance and delight of King Solomon. The pools were three iu number, of quadrangular shape, each from an hundred and sixty to two hundred and twenty feet in length. Close by tfae pools was a pleasant castle of modern structure. From tfais place the guides led the travellers back to Bethlehem, and, on the road, pointed out to them the place where it was believed the shepherds were watch ing their flocks, when they received tbe glad tidings of -the birth of Christ. On their return from Bethlehem to Jerusalem tfaey proceeded, by a different route, for tbe purpose of visit ing tfae Wilderness of St, John, This had the name of wilderness, from its being rocky and mountainous ; but it was well cultivated, and produced an abundance of corn, as well as of vines and olive trees. After about an hour's journey in this wilderness tfaey came to a cave and fountain, wfaere, according to tfae report of the guides, the Baptist exercised those austerities which are related of him in the third chapter of St. Matthew's gospel. From this place they directed their course to ward the Convent of St, John, distant about a league ¦ eastward ; and, in their way, they passed along the Valley of Elah, where David slew the giant tfaat had defied the army of Israel. The convent is supposed to have been built at the place where St. John was born. At the return of the pilgrims to Jerusalem, they were invited into the principal convent there to have their feet washed. This operation was performed by the father guardian himself. During the ceremony the \\h<.ii to dine at a tavern in the city. "They went at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. -The house was so large that it Would, witfaout inconvenience, have accommodated six or eight hundred' people. It consisted xinly of one apartment, great part of which was filled with long tables, having benches on each side for the accommo dation of the company ; and the roof was supported by two rows of wooden pillars. During the tirpe of dinner tfaey were entertained with music ; and after it by a company of players, belonging to tbe house, wlio acted plays every day, on a stage erected at one side of the room. The entertainment was splendid, consisting of many courses aud desserts, prepared and served in the best style of tbe country. On the 22d of January, Mr. Bell went, with this Chinese gentleman, to visit a manufactory of China ware, at a place about twelve miles east of the city. He saw a great number of people at work. The ovens, in par ticular, seemed very curious ; but his" view was so cur sory and superficial, that he could form no judgment either of" the materials, or of tbe mode in which the articles were made. This important branch of trade, whicfa is carried on iu almost every town of China, brings immense sums of money into the country, and affords employment to great numbers of poor people. At one of the principal Chinese festivals, tiie>amhas.- sador, and the gentlemen accompanying hira, were in vited to au entertainment at court. Among > other amusements, when the dinner was ended, there was an exhibition of wrestUng; of mock fights, and dancing. Tfae next day they went again, and, in the evening, were entertained witb an exhibition of fire-works. The machinery for the fire-work-s was placed. on the side of a canal, opposite to that on which the party was assem bled. A rocket from the emperor's gallery was the signal for beginning ; and many thousand lanterns were " immediately lighted. These lanterns were made of paper of various colours, and hung on -posts about six - 130 bell's JOURNEY FROM feet high, ui every part of the gardens^ At anotfaer signal tfae rockets were played off; they rose to a pro digious height, and, exploding, fell down in figures of stars, displaying a great variety of beautiful colours. Opposite to the gallery, where the emperor sat, was a large circular vessel, about twenty feet in diameter, sus pended between two posts, each about thirty feet high. A rocket from tfae gallery lighted a match, and instantly the bottom of the vessel dropped with a loud noise. 'Then fell out a lattice-work all on fire, and burning in various colours. This continued about ten minutes ; afterwards thirty lanterns of various colours dropped from the vessel, hanging one from another in wreaths of fire. Then dropped ten or twelve wreathed pillars of fire ; and lanterns, to the number of a thousand, con tinued to fall. Different kinds of fire-works were ex hibited on each of the two following evenings. What pleased Mr. Bell the most, was a small mount, raised iu the middle of the garden, from which sprung a stream of white aud blue fire, in imitation of water. On the top of the mount was a cavity, in the shape of a large urn; and fire rose from this to a prodigious height. Opposite to the gallery where the emperor sat were erected three large fraraes, each about thirty feet high. On one of these was a monstrous figure ofa dragon; on the second, a man on horseback; and the third repre sented an elephant, with a man on his back : aU these were composed of a deep blue fire ; and were orna- meiited with representations of vines and grapes hanging around on all sides, in white, red, and blue fire. These fireworks surpassed every thing of the kind that Mr. Bell had seen attempted in Europe; for, besides the art dis played in their contrivance and figures, these works exhibited a variety of brilliant and beautiful colours, which, he says, was far beyond bis ability to describe. During the festival above-mentioned, stages were erected, and plays represented iu all the principal streets •of Pekin. As soon as the affairs relating to the em^iassy were PETERSBURGH TO PEKIN. 137 terminated, the emperor sent to the ambassador three officers, with presents for the czar. The chief of these consisted of- tapestry for two rooms, enamelled cups, flower pieces on taffety, two chests of Chinese rockets,. and some pieces of silk. On the 23d of February the ambassador had his audience with the emperor on tak ing leave. The emperor received him in his bed-cham ber iu a very affable manner, and repeated, the assurances he had before made, of tbe friendship fae entertained for tfae czar. The ambassador returned to his lodgings, and preparations were made for his departure. Mr. Bell, during his residence in Pekin, made some interesting remarks relative to China and its inhabitants. Of the great wall wfaicfa encompasses all the northern aud western frontier of China, he says, that it had been built about six hundred years before he was there ; that it was in general fifteen or twenty feet high, and of great thickness ; that it had been carried over rivers, and even along the tops of the highest mountains, ex tending, in the whole, a distance of about twelve thou sand miles. He relates, that tfais very extraordinary- wall had been begun and completed in five years, every sixth man in the empire being obliged either to work himself, or to find another to work for faim. He further -says, that its foundation consisted of large blocks of square stones laid in mortar ; but that the rest of the wall was brick. The intention of this wall was to pro- tect the country from the attacks of surrounding ene mies; but the western Tartars found means to pass throngh it. Tfaey entered with a powerful army of horse, and at length subdued a considerable part of China. They were afterwards expelled; but, in the year 1640, tfae Mantzur Tartars conquered ~ the whole country-; and, by their prudent management and mild government, still retained possession of it. ^ The part of China which Mr. Bell passed through was nearly level,, but was iuterspersed with hills and rising ground. It was a pleasant and well cultivated couptry, producing wheat, rice, and other grain, and a 138 bell's journey FROM great abundance of cattle and poultry.' There were many navigable rivers and artificial canals. The mer^ chants acquired great riches both by their inland and foreign trade. In payment for their commodities they received only dollars and other silver money ; and these they immediately melted into bars. Tea was in general use by every rank of persons. Both green and bohea tea, he says, grew on the sanie shrub ; and, when the proper season arrived, the leaves were gathered, put into large kettles, and dried over a gentle fire ; this made them crumple up, and prevented their crumbling to powder. The price in Pekin of the best tea, of either soi-t, was about two shillings (EngUsh) per pound. Tbe Cfainese drank tfaeir tea without sugar,. though sugar was a produce of the country, and very cheap. Several of the Chinese manufactures had been brought to great perfection, particularly the weaving of silk and damasks. Silks were the comraon dress of the higher ranks of people ; and coarse cotton cloth that of the lower class. The Chinese were excellent mechanics ; and, in particular, were skilful as potters, dyers, japan- ners, .joiners, and paper makers. The arts of working iii.metal,~statuary, sculpture, and painting, had, bow- ever, made but little progress among them. They made beautiful water-colours, but had none in oil. Mr. Bell found the Cfainese a civil and hospitable people, very regular in their manners and behaviour. They treated their parents with great regard ; and the respectful conduct of the men towards the women was deserving of great praise. The women were modest in their dress. Their eyes were black, and so small that when they laughed they were" scarcely visible. Their hair was black, and generally worn in a knot on the crown of the head. Women of all ranks were ac^ customed to stay much at horae ; for the smallness of tfaeir feet rendered them unable to walk to any consi derable distance. Almost from the moment of their birth the females of China have their feet bound tight PETERSBURGH TO PEKIN. 139 with bandages, which are renewed as occasion requires. The intention of tfais is to prevent them from Rowing ; for the Chinese consider small feet a great beauty in females; The Chinese women also never cut tfaeir nails, but suffer them to grow to tfaeir full length. As to religion, the Chinese were divided into several sects, among whicfa, Mr. BeU says, that of Theists was the most rational and respectable. These worshipped one God, and paid no religious homage to the images of their countrymen. This was .the reUgion that had been embraced by the emperor, and by most of his grandees and men of learning ; but the common people were generally idolaters. The language of the Chinese^ says Mr. Bell, is com posed chiefly of monosyllables, and seemed easy to be acquired, at least as much of it as was sufficient for conversation ; and the difficulty of learning their letters, or rather marks for words, cannot be so great as is. commonly represented, as there was scarcely a common hawker in the neighbourhood of Pekin whocould not both read and write every thing that belonged to fais business. But much labour and considerable abilities were requisite to acquire the cbaracter of a learned man in Cfaina. The Chinese do not write with pens, but with camel-hair pencils, dipped in Indian ink. On tfae 2d of March the travellers departed from Pekin, on their return to Russia. In about ten days tfaey arrived at one of the gates of the great wall. They passed tfaough tfais, and proceeded on tfaeir journey. To avoid traveUing witb his heavy baggage, tfae ambassador determined to go by the shortest way to Selinginsky. He took along with him Mr. Bell and another gentleman. Under the direction of a guide, they rode very hard till the evening, when they took up their lodgings in a Monguliaii tent. The autside of the tent was hung round with several pieces of horse-flesh, on part of which the owner and his wife supped. "Tfaey invited the strangers to partake of the repast; but, the ambassador having brought provisions 140 BELL S JOURNEY FROM with him, they desired to be excused. The disagree able smell of tfais supper induced tfaera afterwards to sleep in tfae open air, till tfaey came to Selinginsky. Nothing of importance occurred tiU-the 3d of April, when tfaey arrived on the bank of the river Tola. They had been nineteen days on their journey, and this was the first running water tfaey faad seen. Tbe delight they experienced at the sight of this river was inex pressible. Mr. Bell says, that he thought the most de licious wines of Ispahan and Shiraz were not worthy to be compared to this simple element, so little prized by those who enjoy it in plenty.. During their journey they faad not observed any'ioad ; ,and tbey were often in danger of being shot by arrows, which the Monguls had set in cross-bows, covered with sand,- for killing antelopes. In one instance a bow was trodden upou by one of the horses, and tbe arrow was discharged ; but bappily it struck against the stirrup-iron, and glanced aside, otherwise it would faave killed eitfaer the horse or the rider. Tfais day some Monguls, at a distance from the travellers, and in; the direction in which they were proceeding, set fire to the long grass witfa which the country was covered. The wind was strong, and the flames soon spread^to a great distance. The travellers retired to the top of an adjacent bill, . and, in their own defence, setting fire to the grass around them, proceeded nearly a milci following their own flame, and involved in a dismal cloud of smoke. Some of the Russians, who were behind them, faad their " hair aud clothes much singed. A few days after this they reached the river Iro, but found it so frozen that it was not without great diffi culty they could ford it. On the 8th of April they arrived at the town of Selinginsky. When they came to lake Baikal, they found- it completely frozen over. They crossed it in sledges, drawn by horses, upon the ice. The ambassador reached tbe opposite bank in safety before the close of the evening, and was lodged in a fisherman's house, where a boar's head was served PETERSBURGH TO PEKIN. 141 hot from tlie oven for supper. Some of his retinue, however, who were behind, were compelled to lie all night on the ice, the suow at the same time faUing and drifting around them in a most terrific manner. In the morningr however, they reached the shore in safety^ thougfa half dead witfa cold and Wet. On tfae 19th all the party arrived at Irkoutsk. Here tfaey waited for their heavy baggage till the 2d of July ; and, three days afterwards, proceeded on their journey. They rowed down the river Angareo ; then entering the Tvngouska, proceeded along it. About the latter end of August they reached the Oby. Here tfaey pro cured new rowers ; and, favoured by calm weather and a rapid current, they made great progress. From the Oby they entered the Irtish ; but the winter was now again approaching, and ice was floating in the river. Notwithstanding this they reached the town of Tobolsk on tfae 2d of October. Here tfaey were oblig'ed to wait some time for the falUng of the snow, in order to pro ceed on sledges. On the 18th of November, the roads being now sufficiently firm, they proceeded on their way homeward. The weather soon became excessively cold. After a tedious journey, through an extensive range of woods, they came to the river Volga, along which tfaey travelled upon the ice to Nizney Novgorod. They stayed a few days here to rest and refresh them selves, and passed the festival of Christmas with the commandant. Nothing of importauce occurred after this, till they reached Moscow, wfaicfa they did on the 5th of January. In this .city they found the czar, and . all the Russian court, making preparations to celebrate the peace ' wfaicfa had lately been established with Sweden, after a war that had lasted more than twenty years. Maria. I ara extremely desirous to inquire respecting tfae Bramin, or Indian priest, whom my brother has mentioned. On what principle- could,he have imagined it possible that the souls of his deceased relatives might 142 TRAVELLE&S. have inhabited the bodies of the fish that he threw into the river 1 Mr. Allen. An ancient Grecian pfailosopher, whose name was Pythagoras, propagated an opinion, that .the souls of mankind, after death, passed into other bodies ; and that, according to the lives ihey faad lived, they animated the bodies of beasts or of men. He is said to have borrowed tfais notion eitfaer from the Egyptians, Or from the Bramins. Many of the idolaters, both of India and China, still retain it; and are so extremely bigotted to it, that they not only forbear eating any thing that has life, but on this account even refuse to defend themselves against the attacks of wild beasts. Frederic. I have, read that some of them will not even burn wood, lest any little animalcules should hap pen to bein it, and thus be destroyed. Lady Irwin. What an unsatisfactory invention must this have been, to mitigate the apprehension of death, by persuading mankind that tfae soul merely cfaanged its^dging ; and that men only ceased to live, in order to begin a new species of animal life. Mr. Allen, Before the introduction of Christianity various chimerical notions prevailed. The feUacy of all these is now rendered evident ; and we cannot be too thankful for that glorious Ught wfaicfa has dissipated the darkness and exposed to view the ways of error in which mankind hiid previously wandered. Louisa. Frederic has mentioned that Mr. Bell dined at a convent of missionaries in China : Does the em peror of China, who is himself a I^an, encourage tbe establishment of Christians within his dominions? Mr. Allen, About the middle of the sixteenth cen tury a company of Romish missionaries, of tfae order called Jesuits, was suffered to pass into Cfaina, to pro pagate tfae Christian faith. In tfae first instance tfaey took care to render themselves useful to the govern ment, as interpreters betwijit the Chinese and the peo ple of other countries, as astronomers, mathematicians, and mechanics : and, thus originally settied, their num- BELL. 143 bers have since been much increased. At this day many of the missionaries have considerable establish ments in China. Do you recollect, Frederic, when it was that Mr. Bell's account of the expeditions to Persia and China was first published ? Frederic, In the year 1763; aud it has since been reprinted. Sir Charles. I recollect that one of the most eminent periodical publications of that time characterized it as " a dry, barren, and uninteresting journal." Frederic. It appears to me no further barren than as it relates to an immense tract of country, great part of which seems incapable of affording much important in formation. Mr, Allen, His narration is very far frora being eitfaer dry or uninteresting : and it exhibits indications of tfae writer having possessed an enlarged^ and liberal spirit, great candour, and a considerable portion both of penetration and judgment. Louisa. Each ^f his journies must faave been both tedious and perilous. The first appears to have occu pied more than three years ; and the second about two years and a half. Edmund. Mr. Bell states, that the difficulties he had to encounter in these journies were such as those who have not travelled througfa the same countries can scarcely even imagine. Frederic. The work that Mr. BeU has published also comprises the relation of a_ journey to Derbent, in Persia, in 1722, with the army of Russia, commanded by .Peter the First. This expedition was undertaken at the request .of the Sophi of Persia, to assist him against the Affgans, his rehelUous subjects, who had seized several provinces on the frontiers, towards India. It also contains a journal of the residence of M. de Lange, the Russian envoy, at Pekin, in whicfa are inserted many curious particidars relative to China. Mr. Allen. And the accounts which Mr. BeU and 144 TRAVELLERS. his friend M. de Lange gave of China, were tiicn the Only accounts on Which entire dependance could be placed ; for nearly all the previous descriptions of that country and its inhabitants, fibounded in falsities and misrepresentation. NINTH EVENING, " lljTHERTO, withjhe exception of Sir George Wheler's travels in Greece, our attention (said Frederic Montagu)- faas cfaiefly been directed to travels in Asia. This even-- ing it is my design to change tfae scene to another quarter of the globe, and to speak of Egypt, a country remarkable for its antiquity, its extraordinary river, its pyramids, and various stupendous monuments of au', cient magnificence. Ih all these particulars it has long been the admiration of the world, and has inspired many curious and inquisitive men with a desire of visit ing and examining tfae numerous wonders wfaicfa it contains. Nor is there aiiy thing surprising in tfais; for, after having j-ead the splendid book which, a few days ago, was put into our hands by Sir Charles Irwin, both Edmund and myself have been so much delighted, that we each expressed an ardent wish that it were pos-^ sible we could ourselves go tbither. Edmund said, that he should very -much like to go into Egypt, were it not for the inconvenience of the voyage'; " and {observed Miss Irwin) if it were -not for ,the heat of the climate, the aridity of the country, and the Arabs, which inffest the Nile beyond Cairo, I think I ishould like to accompany you'. But whose travels have you been reading?" Frederic replied, " those of a very inteUigent forfeigner, Frederic Lewis Nor den, a captain in the Danish navy." Lady Irwiit. What account, Frederic, have you to give respecting Captain Norden ? Frederic. That he was the fourth son ofa lieutenant- norden. 14,J colonel of the Danish artillery, and born at Reusbut;gli, in the dutchy of Holstein, on tlie 22d of October, 1708. His father, who had five sons, intended to have edu cated them all to the profession of arms ; and,' to pre pare them early to excel in thjs profession, he had them carefully instructed in a knowledge of the modern lan guages, history, drawing, and mathematics. Frederic. Lewis, of whom we are speaking, was designed for the naval service ; and, with this view, when about fourteen years of age, he was entered into the corps of cadets. Sir Charles. That was an establishment in which a select set of young men were educated at the expense of the king of Denmark ; and insti uctcd in all such arts and sciences as were considered requisite to form good naval officers. Lady Irwin. And what progress did the young man make in this school ? Edmund. All the progress that could be expected from a youth of great genius. He is said to have ex celled most of his companions in the study of mathema tics, and in the art of ship-building ; but what afforded him the greatest deUght was drawing. He copied the works of the most eminent masters in this art, to form his taste, and acquire their manner. Frederic, He did so, Edmund ; but he experienced much greater satisfaction in drawing from nature, than iu copying the works of artists. Lady Irwin, It must faave been highly gratifying to his father to have witnessed so successful a progress. Frederic. It no doubt was so : but he had not en tered his twentieth year before death deprived him of this affectionate parent. Mr. Allen. This, doubtless, was a severe loss at so critical a period of his life; but Mr. Norden affords a satisfactory instance of the rewards which merit may attain even by individual exertion. Frederic, I know, can -relate the mode by which he first recommended himself to the public notice. Frederic. The grand master of the Ceremonies at the Trav. h 146 TRAVELLERS. Danish court, having been informed of fais application and talents, was induced to put into fais faands a col lection of cfaarts and topographical plans, beloBging to the king, to be retouched and amended. Norden exe cuted them according to the directions tfaat were given to him, with pecujiar care and skiU. This was an .employment foreign to the profession for which he faad been educated; but his merit in it was so con spicuous, that his patron became extremely desirous of obtaining for faim some situation in which his peculiar taste migfat be indulged without restraint. 'Towards the end of- the year 1732, this gentleman introduced him to the king of Denmark ; and his majesty gave faim permission to travel, and appointed him a hand some pension from the royal treasury for that purpose. He, at the same time, promoted him to the rank of a second lieutenant. Louisa. Did Mr. Norden immediately afterwards go into Egypt? ' Edmund. No, he set out for Holland, with the in tention of afterwards passing some years in Italy and other countries of the south of Europe. Frederic. Edmund has omitted to relate the instruc tions which he received from the Danish admiralty pre viously to the commencement of his journey. AVhere- cver he had opportunity to do so, fae was directed, in all his voyages, to study attentively the art of ship building ; but especially the construction of such galUes and rowing vessels as were used in the Mediterranean. Mr. Alien. Whilst he was in Holland, Mr. Norden became acquainted with several distinguished artists, and particularly with one named De Reyter, by whom he was instructed in the art of etching and engraving. Edmund.' He appears to have continued in Holland at least twelve months ; after which he passed through France to Marseilles. Lady Irwin. .4nd, I presume, he did not neglect the instructions he had received. Frederic. He was peculiarly careful to inform him- norden. 147 self ou e.ery subject whioli related to the design of his expedition. From Marseilles he embarked for Leghorn, and there redoubled fais application to execute faith fully the task that faad been imposed upon him. He here procured models of several kinds of rowing ves sels. Mr. Allen. All of which were deposited, and are probably still to be seen in the chamber of models in the admiralty at Copenhagen, unless they were lost or destroyed during the attack upon that city in 1807. Sir Charles, How long did Mr. Norden continue in Italy ? His taste as a draughtsman must have been both gratified and improved in that classical country. Frederic, He was there nearly three years ; and fais great talents, in addition to his peculiar merit, pro cured him the friendship and attention of many persons of distinction, opened for him a free access fo the cabi nets of tbe curious, and to all the great works of paint ing and sculpture, especially at Rome and Florence. It was in the year 1737, whilst he was in the latter city, tfaat he reCeived an order from the king of Den mark to proceed into. Egypt. Louisa. What was the king's inducement to send him tfaitfaer? Frederic. He was desirous of obtaining a circum stantial account of so celebrated a country ; and he was induced to believe, that, -in the double capacity of a narrator and -an artist, no one would be better able to gratify all his wishes respecting it than Mr. Norden. The latter was then in the flower of his age ; of a courage -which no danger nor fatigue could dishearten ; of acknowledged abilities ; a skilful observer, an accu rate designer, and a good matheraatician. Mr, Allen. To all which qualifications we may add an enthusiastic desire to examine the wonders qf Egypt ;- for, even prior to tfae orders of his master, he had been known to express an anxious wish to travel in that country. h2 , 148 norden's travels through Frederic, He embarked from Leghorn in the month of May, 1737 ; and, after a voyage of thirty days, ar rived at Alexandria. Narrative of Norden's Travels through Egypt and Nubia, Mr. Norden had no sooner landed at Alexandria, than he set out in search of the celebrated obelisk called Cleopatra's Needle. He reached it by climbing over ruined walls ; and observed near it another of similar description, almost buried in the sand. These two obelisks, no doubt, had once decorated the entrance. of a palace. Each consisted of a single block of granite, was about sixty-three feet in height, and was covered with hieroglyphics. Mr. Norden next proceeded to examine the walls of Alexandria, and some towers, which, in ancient times, had been built for the defence of the place. He then went to the two Christian churches of St. Mark and St. Catherine, which were served by Grecian and Coptic priests. They had nothing respectable except their names; and they were so gloomy, filthy, and yet so full of lamps, tfaat tfaey seeraed rather places of Pagan worship than teraples in which the true God was adored. In that of St. Mark there was an old wooden chair, which, it was believed, had been the property of that evan gelist. Passing through the gate of the road leading to wards Rosetta, Mr. Norden next went to view that pleasing master-piece of art, called Pompey's Pillar, It is situated on an eminence which commands two beautiful prospects, one of Alexandria, and the other of the low country that extends along the banks of the Nile. This is considered to be the greatest and most magnificent column that faas ever been executed in the Corinthian order. Its shaft is one entire piece of granite ; the capital is of marble, and the base of a EGYPT AND NUBIA. 149 grey stone, which Mr. Norden describes to have been not unlike flint, both in hardness and grain. The foun dation was open on one side; and the opening was thus accounted for. " An Arabian, many years before Mr. Norden was faere, dug under the foundation a hole, and put into tfais a box of gunpowder, in order to blow up the column, that he might render himself master of an immense treasure, which, as fae imagined, was concealed beneath. Happily for the curious he was a bad engineer. He sprung his mine, but his en- terprize failed, for he dislodged only four stones, whicfa, making but a small part of tfae foundation, the remainder was left uninjured. Tfae only advantage wfaich resulted from the experiment was, that an op portunity was thus -afforded to inspect the stones of whicfa the foundation had been constructed. Mr. Nor den observed there one piece of white oriental marble, full of conspicuous hieroglyphics ; and another of yellow marble, spotted with red. Tfae latter faad hieroglypfaics engraven upon it, but tbey were nearly defaced. At the distance of about a quarter of a league from Pompey's Pillar was a long subterraneous gallery, which had been formed into catacombs for burial places. The next excursion of Mr. Norden was to Cleopatra's Canal, which siipplies Alexandria with fresh water. In bis way tfaitfaer he passed through a plain where capers grew in great abundance; and he afterwards traversed a forest of date trees. The original intention of this canal was, by its junction with one of the branches of the Nile, to facilitate a commercial intercourse between Grand Cairo and Alexandria. At this time it was in a very decayed condition, almost choked up in many parts, and scarcely furnished water enough to supply the reservoirs or cisterns of Alexandria. The ports of Alexandria were called the old, .and tbe new port ; the former was appropriated to the Turks, the latter was free of access to people of all the nations of Europe. In the suburbs of the old port there were yet existing some remains of ancient Alexandria. The l-)0 norden's TEAVELS THROUGH hew town was a poor and degraded place ; and the mart, which had formerly been so ' celebrated for its extensive commerce, was at this time dwindled to a mere landing-place. Mr. Norden left Alexandria and went to Grand Cairo, where fae arrived on the 7th of July, 1737. This capital of Egypt is situated eastwardiof the Nile, a little above the place where the river branches 40 form the Delta. It is divided into two cities, called Old Cairo and Grand Cairo. In his account of this city,' Mr. Norden describes the annual ceremony that is observed of cutting the dyke of the canal, which, at the time of the swelling of the Nile, is to convey the waters of that river to Cairo. At a little distance from the town this canal looks like a neglected ditch ; bi*t, when it enters the city, it assumes an appearance of greater consequence. As soon as the waters of the Nile begin to rise, which they do nearly at a certain season ever^ year, the mouth of the canal is closed with a dyke of earth, on which is erected a signal, tfaat is to notify the opening of this, and of all other canals in the kingdom. On an appointed day the Basha, or governor of Egypt, and the Beys, or governors of provinces, aided by a numerous retinue, assist at the ceremony of open ing the dyke. They range themselves under a paviUou near the place. The Egyptians aud Jews are empfoyed , to cilt the dyke, and thb assembled multitude at the same time'' throw nuts, melons, and other things into the Water, as it enters the canal. After some further cerethony, a fire-work of rockets is played off. Tfae people, oh 'this occasion, commit a thousand follies to evince their joy for the swelling of the river, which, by overflowing and watering their lands, insures to them a plentifid harvest. These rejoicings have been much exaggerated by travellers. The only object which Mr. Norden remarked, as really deserving of notice, was the retinue of the grandees who attended the ceremony, and which had some degree of magnificence. Mr. Norden visited the famous Well of Joseph, at EGYPT AND NUBIA. 151 Cairo, the mouth of which, he says, was eighteen feet broad, and twenty-four feet long, and the depth of which was two hundred and seventy-six feet. Water was drawn from this well by wheels and chains of earthern pitchers; and the wheels were turned by oxen. In the city of Old Cairo the raajority of the build ings, the abodes of the working people excepted, were pleasure houses, whither tbe principal inhabitants of Cairo were accustomed to divert themselves when the waters of the Nile were at their highest level. There were many gardens ; and date trees and vines occupied a considerable portion of the ground. ' There were also about half a dozen mosques for the Turkish worship, and other places of worship for Christians, Under one of the Coptic churches was a grotto, in which, accord ing to tradition, the Virgin Mary rested after the fatigue of fa'er retreat into Egypt. The fathers of the Holy Land paid annually to' the Turks a certain sum of money for the privilege of saying mass whenever they pleased in this grotto. One of the mOst considerable buildings in Cairo was called Joseph's Granary. It covered a considerable space of ground, and was surrounded by a lofty wall. This building was employed as a place of deposit for all tbe tributary corn that was paid to the Grand Siguier by the different cantons of Egypt; but it had no ap pearance of extraordinary antiquity. Cairo was a city almost without defence, having had only sorae reraains of a wall, and one gate. Not far from it was the village of Geeza, built, according to some of the ancient writers, on the place where once stood the famous city of Memphis, the capital of Egypt. At this time the houses in Geeza were formed solely of bricks and mud ; and its only ornaments were four or five minarets, or steeples, attached to the mosques, and sorae date trees. While Mr. Norden was at Cairo he- was witness- to the Egyptian mode of hatching, chickens in ovens. He also describerthe mode of thrashing rice, or rather of 152 norden's TRAVELS THROUGH treading oi)t the grain from the chaff. This,, he says, was done with a sledge drawn by two oxen. The man who drove them knelt in the sledge, whilst an other placed the straw, and carried it off. when the grain was separated. In this operation the rice was laid upon the ground in a circle, round which the oxen were driven. Among other tfaings deserving of notice, Mr. Norden mentions having seen near Cairo a peculiar kind of boat, to convey passengers across the Nile. It was made of large earthen pitchers tied closely toge ther, and covered with palm-tree leaves. Tfae man who steered it had usually a cord hanging from his mouth, with which he contrived to fish as fae sailed^ As rain seldom falls in Egypt, divine wisdom faas so ordained, that this defect is supplied by the river Nile annually overflowing its banks. Much of tbe . land, hawever, which the waters of the Nile cannot reach, is artificially watered by hydraulic machines of different kinds, and with great khour. The Pyramids, those astonishing monuments of hu man art and ingenuity, which formerly were reckoned among the seven wonders of tlie world, and to tfais day are the subject of almost universal admiration, are chiefly situated near Geeza, and are distant about three hours journey south of Cairo. They are built, uot, as at first sight might be imagined, ou the sandy plains, but on rocks near the high mountains that divide Egypt from Lybia. Some of them had been opened, but the greatest number were closed. It was evident, from their appearance alone, that they had been erected at different' periods; but their structure is of the most remote antiquity. Four of them were found to merit particular atten tion. These were situated on a diagonal line, and dis tant from each other about four hundred paces. Tbe two northern ones were the largest, and were each about five hundred feet in perpendicular height. The other two were smaller. The plain in which they were built is now almost covered by a light sand. Among this sand EGYPT AND NUBIA. 153 great numbers of petrified sheUs, and particularly of a kind of oysters, are found ; although the Nile has never been known to rise so high as to overflow the plain; and no shells like them have ever been discovered in that stream. There are also found here those celebrated stones (called Egyptian pebbles) which, on account of their beautiful appearance, and the singularity of their colours, are iu great estimation for the tops of snuff boxes, the handles of knives, and other purposes. The most northern of the great pyramids was the only one that at this time was open. Its general figure, as well as that of the others, is too well known to re quire description. Its exterior is composed, for the most part, of square stones of different sizes, strongly cemented together. The entrance is on the north side, at the height of about forty-eight feet above the level of the horizon ; and a quantity of sand has been blown so faigfa ou tfaat side as greatly to facilitate tfae access to the opening. This leads successively to five different channels, or passages ; which, although they run above, below, and horizontally, all tend toward the south, and ter minate in two chambers, one in the middle of the pyramid, and the other beneath. All the passages except the fourth have nearly the same dimensions. They were constructed alike, and are covered, on their four sides, with great pieces of white marble, so smooth that it would be impossible to walk on them without some such contrivance as that which has been adopted, the cutting of little holes in each step for the feet to fit into; and, even with the assistance of these, there is great difficulty in proceeding. It is said, that, in the original structure, all the passages have been closed witfa buge square stones fastened into tfaeir entrances after tfae work had been finished. When the^person inspecting the pyramid has arrived at the end of the two first passages, he finds a resting-place, which has, on the right, an opening for a small channel or well. From this a third passage leads to a chamber, not very h3 154 norden's TRAVELS THROUGH large, and half filled with stones taken from the wall on the right, to open there another passage, wfaicfa termi nates in a niche not far from'it. This passage is vaulted with a ridge, and is overlaid with granite, whicfa once: was polished, but, in tfae course of time, has been quite blackened by the burning flambeaux of its numerous visitors. Having returned by the same road, the next task for the visitor is to climb to the fourth passage. This is very faigfa, vaulted in a ridge, and faas raised ways along , its sides. The fifth passage conducts to the upper chamber ; but before he arrives there he comes to a small apartment in the middle of the passage. Ou each side of tfais is a deep incision into tfae stone ; and, on the left, is a large urn, or rather sarcophagus ofgra- . nite. It has the plain figure of a parallelopiped, witb- ' out any ornament; and when Mr. Norden was here it was so perfect, that, when struck with a key, it sounded like a bell. North of this sarcophagus is a deep hole, evidently made since the pyramid was finished ; but for what purpose he could not conjecture. There, how ever, appeared to be a cavity beneath ; for the pavement seemed to have sunk after the foundation of the cham ber had given way. The other three 'pyramids, as before remarked, are ranged almost in the same line as this. Tfaatiwhicb is the nearest, and is usually called the second pyramid, appears to be higher than the one just mentioned ; but this is a deception occasioned only by the foundation being more elevated ; for, in other respects, they are equal and similar. They seem to have no other differ ence than that the second is so exactly closed, that there is no mark whatever of its having been opened. Its summit is covered on the four sides with granite, so well joined, and of so high a poUsh, that even the most daring man would not venture to ascend it. On the east side of this pyramid were sfeen tfae ruins ofa temple, the stones of which are of prodigious size. •' The third pyramid is about one hundred feet lower than the two former, but apparently similar to them in EGYPT AND NUBIA. lo."* construction. It was closed. On the east of this, pyra mid were the ruins of a temple, with an entrance on the east side. The fourth pyramid, which is about an hundred feet lower than the third, was also closed. It had no temple near it. The summit was remarkable for being termi nated by one great stone, which seemed once to have served as a pedestal. These four pyramids were surrounded by many smaller ones, most of which had been opened. There were three eastward of the first pyramid; but two of them were so dilapidated, that it was impossible to discover tfae chamber. Westward of the same pyramid were many others, but all in ruins. Opposite to the second pyramid were six, in one of which Mr. Norden remarked a square well about thirty feet deep. Three hundred paces east of the second pyramid, was tbe well known figure called the Sphinx. This is about thirty feet high, has been hewn out of the rock, and resembled the head and shoulders ofa woman. In the neighbourhood of the pyramids were some sepul chral grottos, ornamented with hieroglyphics. They had all been opened and robbed of whatever had been deposited in them. Mr. Norden says, that it is chiefly customary to visit the pyramids during the winter season, betwixt the months of November and April ; because, at this time, the country is every where dry ; whereas in summer, the inundation of the Nile renders fhem almost inacces sible. From bis own experience he gives the following directions to those who are desirous of inspecting these stupendous monuments of antiquity. " When you arrive at the entrance of the first pyra mid, you discharge some pistols, to frighten away the bats ; it will then be requisite for the guides to remove the sand which almost stops up the passage. After these preliminaries you must strip yourself, and undress even to your shirt, on account of the excessive heat which always prevails in tfae pyramids. In this condi^ 156 norden's TRAVELS THROUGH tion you enter the passage, every person in company carrying in his hand a wax candle, for the torches are not lighted till you are in the chambers, on account of their causing too much smoke. " When you are arrived at the extremity of the gallery, you find an opening, which is scarcely a foot and a half in height, and two feet in breadth. Through this you are obliged to pass by creeping. The traveller usually lies on the ground, and two guides, who go be fore him, each take hold of one of his legs, and drag him through the passage over sand and dust : it is, however, only about two ells in length, or the toil would be in supportable. " At the end of this passage you find a large place, where you can take breath, and make use of some refresh ments. You will thus resume your courage . for pene trating into the second gallery, which is well deserving of observation. At the end of the second passage there is a resting-place ; at tbe right hand of whicfa is the . opening tfaat gives an outlet io the well ; not by means of any steps, but by a perpendicular pipe, and much in .the same manner as chimney-sweepers descend a -chimney. "At the extremity of the resting-place begins the third gallery, , which leads to the inferior chamber. It ex tends horizontally, and in a straight Une. At the ei>- trance of the chamber you find some stones, by which the way is embarrassed, but with a Uttle trouble you will get over that difficulty. All the inside of the chamber is, in like manner, covered with stones ; and the passage is extremely narrow. It is consequently little frequented, particularly as there is nothing to be seen iu it but a niche. " When you have visited the lower chamber, you return along the horizontal passage to the resting-place, which deprives the fourth gallery of tfae acute angle by which it is joined to the second gallery, and obliges you to ascend upward. This is done by fixing your feet in some notches made on each side of the waU. By this EGYPT AND NUBIA. 157 means you reach tfae fourth gallery, which you ascend crouching ; for though it is twenty-two feet high, and has a raised way on each side, it is extremely steep and slippery. " Tliese difficulties surmounted, you rest yourself at the end of the gaUery on a Uttle platform. You after wards again begin to climb; but, as you presently find a new openiug, where you can walk erect, you soon forget that trouble by contemplating a sort of little room, which at first is not more than a palm's breadth wider than the galleries, but which afterwards enlarges on both sides. Then, stooping fot. the last time, you pass the remainder of the fifth gallery, whicfa leads, in an horizontal line, to the upper saloon; of which a description has been already given. " In this saloon it is usual to discharge a pistol, in order to hear the peculiar sound of the report, which resembles thunder. And, as there is no hope of disco vering more than what others have already remarked, you resume tfae way by whicfa you came, and return in the same manner, as well as with the same difficulty that you had experienced in entering. " As soon as you are out of the pyramid you must dress, and wrap yourself carefuUy up, to prevent any bad effects wfaich might otherwise take place by tfae sudden cfaange from an exlrepaely hot atmosphere to one more temperate. Afterwards you mount, on the outside to, -the top of tfae pyramid, to enjoy from tfaence a beauti ful view of all tfae circumjacent country. Here, as weU as at the entrance, and in the chambers, you will ob serve the names of many preceding travellers who have visited the pyramids. " After having thus examined the first, you wiU go to the second pyramid, which is soon examined, because it has not been opened. You wiU then see tfa| ruins of a temple on the east side of the latter; and, descending insensibly, will arrive at the Sphinx, the enormous size -of wfaich will attract your admiration. You will lastly 158 norden's travels through visit the other pyramids, both great and small, and the adjacent grottos." Mr. Norden was Compelled to remain at Cairo some what more than three months, n-,imely, from tbe begin ning of July to the middle of November. This was occasioned partly by various irapedinieiits' experi«]ced at that time by Europeans who were desirous of pene trating into Upper Egypt ; partly by a revolt, which had thrown the whole country into confusion, and partly by an iUness, which had confined nim for a con siderable time to his bed. At length, all obstacles having been removed, and the strongest recommenda- /tions to the governors of the different provinces, and to several Arabian chiefs, having been obtained, Mr. Norden hired a vessel to convey himself and some other persons up the Nile to -^siaan. In the company were a Coptic priest and two missionaries. One of the latter was a valuable acquisition, as he understood the Arabic language, and was able to act as an interpreter Tbey sailed from Cairo on tfae 17th of November, and on tfae ensuing day arrived at Sakara, This place, besides having a mosque, was celebrated for its com merce in mummies. 'These the inhabitauts dug out of a place called the Plain of Mummies. There was also a kind of labyrinth, in which birds and other embalmed animals were formerly buried. On the 19th Mr. Norden landed near one of the vil lages on the bank of the Nile, for the purpose of inspect ing some agricultural implements, which he observed in use there. From what he saw, he was immediately convinced of the faUacy of an opinion which was for merly prevalent, that the inundation of tbe Nile so fer tilized the land that no tillage was necessary, and that it was only-requisite to throw the seed upon the ground to produce a luxuriant crop of corn. At some distance west of the river he soon afterwards saw the pyramids of Dashour. These terminated near Medwun, where the most south- EGYPT AND NUBIA, 159 em of them all was situated. At a distance this pyramid appeared a very remarkable one ; but, on a near 'ap proach, it did not seem of great consequence, as it was built only of large bricks hardened by the sun ; hence the Arabs and Turks usually named it the false pyra mid. It was, however, of very beautiful form, and bad been so well preserved, that it was scarcely possible to observe in it any decay. It had never been opened, and had three or four degrees or steps, the lowest of which appeared to be about twenty feet in perpendicular height. Of the other pyramids, of which the greatest number were near Salcara, only two were found to deserve any attention ; for the remainder were small. Of these, one faad been opened, but few travellers had visited it. There were in the whole about twenty in this neighbourhood. ' In the evenings the voyagers were much annoyed by great numbers of bats, which, towards twilight at this season of the year, hunt for their food on Ihe siirfaceof the Nile. During the nights tfaey kept a strict watch, and every four hours they fired a musquet to* denote that tfaey were not to be surprised ; and to prevent any attempt which might be made to rob them. In the course of the four following days the vessel was often becalmed. On the 24tfa they stopped at a village called Eschmend El-Arab, where every dwelling had a pigeon-house at the top of it. It was there an established rule that no man should marry, or be at the head of a family, unless he were possessed of a pigeon- house; because no one could cultivate fais land without the dung of these birds, for all other animal remains were carefully preserved to be burnt and converted into sal-ammoniac. The houses were so contrived that tbe pigeons occupied the upper, and the pro prietors and their families the. lower part. At a distance they had a pleasing appearance; but, on ^ near ap proach, they were found to be the habitations of po verty and wretchedness. The inhabitants were chiefly supported by a trade in poultry and eggs, which they carried on with Cairo. 160 norden's travels through On the 26th the voyagers arrived at Schechabade, formerly Antinoe, the capital of the Low Thebaid^ Several antiquities were discovered here; but the prin cipal objects which attracted the notice of Mr. Norden were three grand gates. One of these was ornamented with fluted colurans of the Corinthian order ; and the other, two corresponded with this, but were plainer. These ruins were at the foot of the mountains, and near the bank of the Nile. Tfae walls of the houses were of brick, and appeared as red as though they faad been lately built. Beyond Antinoe the voyagers were compelled to be incessantly on the watch, lest they should be attacked by some of the numerous Arabs who infested that part of the river, and plundered every vessel, the com manders of which they were able to overpower. In consequence, however, of the defensive preparations of Mr. Norden and his party, they escaped without attack. On the bank of the river opposite to Monfaluth, Mr. Norden was shown a convent of Coptic Christians, in a, situation absolutely inaccessible by any of the usual means of approach. Such persons as went to it were drawn up in a basket by means ofa rope and pulley : hence it had the name of Convent de la Poulie, or the Pulley Convent. The vessel arrived at Siut on the 28tb. ITiis was a place of considerable importance. It had some mosques, and was the residence of a Coptic bishop. In a moun tain at a little distance from Siut were several ancient grottos. These Mr. Norden and his party visited. The ascent to the entrance of the first of them occupied about two hours. After they had passed the entrance they found themselves in what Mr. Norden denominates a grand saloon, supported by four hexagonal pillars, formed of the same substance as the rock. The interior of the roof had been decorated with paiqjings, some of which were still distingnishable r and the gilding that had been employed iu ornamenting the place was yet -EGYPT AND NUBIA. 161 visible. Nothing further was deserving of notice in the saloon, except a few openings which led to other apartments; but these were filled with ruins. Over the saloon was an apartment, which, with some diffi culty, Mr. Norden entered from the outside. It was not so large as tbe former, and had no pillars, but was also painteid. On each side of it was a tomb formed of stone similar to that of the whole mountain. One of these* tombs had been opened. The other was closed, and almost buried in sand. This apartment comraunicated with sorae others, but the passages to them were closed up with ruins. On the 3d of December the voyagers had sailed up the Nile as far as Meschie. Here they had sorae bread bsdicd for them ; and, at the bazaar, or market-place, they purchased, at a very cheap rate, a calf and a con siderable quantity of poultry. Whilst Mr. Norden was at the bazaar be saw two of the pretended saints of this country. They wer« entirely naked, and rau, like madmen, through the streets, shaking their heads, and bellowing as loud as they were able. The voyagers again embarked, and the same evening arrived at Girge, the capital of Upper Egypt. The Turks had several mosques here ; and it was likewise the residence of a Coptic bishop. Proceeding still up the Nile, they went quietly aud regularly along till the 9tfa of December, when they were harassed by a mob of Coptic Christians and Arabs. These people ranged themselves opposite to the vessel, and at first seemed to contemplate it with surprise. After a little while they became so insolent as to go on board. Here they rumraaged every part of it ; and the vessel had almost the appearance of a market. Mr. Norden and his friends could not imagine what had caused this general curiosity, for they had experienced nothing like it in the preceding part of their voyage. But as soon as the Reis, or commander of the vessel, who had been ab sent a little while, returned on board, fae explained the jnystery. He said, that these troublesome visitants, on 162 norden's travels through seeing the packages and various kitchen utensils, had concluded that the former were filled with gold and silver; and that each of the tin, pewter, and brass vessels which they saw, was made of one of the precio-HS metals. A general rumour of the immense wealth of the.voyagers having thus been circulated, the Reis said, that" it would be irapo.ssible to proceed in safety any fiirther up the Nile. He consequently projiosed, that the vessel should return to 6airo, asserting, respecting the Arabs, " they .will kill both you and me, in order to render themselves masters of the treasures which they imagine you to possess. They will circulate a re port of your riches aH over the country ; so that if you escape here, you will certainly perish in some other place." Tbe poori Reis, unable to- recover from his panic, earnestly entreated of them to return ; but they were deaf to all his representations aud remonstrances. They told him, that, being well armed, they feared nothing ; that no one should offer them the least injury but at the peril of his life ; and that they were deter mined to proceed. Their intrepidity, and their repeated assurances, that they would defend his life as well as their own, at length recovered - him a little frora his alarm. The assertions Of tbe Reis were not wholly witliout foundation ; for so many reports were immedfately circulated through tbe country of the wealth of the voyagers, that they were never afterwards able to land without being beset by numerous crowds of people. At length the timidity of the Reis became so great, that he trembled with alarm whenever the voyagers expressed any intention to land. As they were proceeding up the river, a few ' days after the incident just mentioned, three or four cro codiles' Vvere observed on the bank. They fired at them. Two itistantly plunged into' the water; but one seemed to remain without motion. They imagined they had killed, or at least se-verely wounded it ; and consequently directed the vessel to be steered towards EGYPT AND NUBIA.' 163 the place ; in the mean time they armed themselves witfa poles, and otfaer implements, for defence, in case it should'not faave been killed. When they were within about fifteen paces of tfae sfaore, tfae animal, wfaich ap peared to be near thirty feet long, awaked, walked away, and dived into the water, as the others had done. The same day they saw about twenty other crocodiles stretched out on the sand banks, and of different size, apparently from fifteen to fifty feet in length. TENTH EVENING. On the lltfa of December the vpyagers remarked, on the east side of the river, many splendid ' remains of ancient structures confusedly scattered upon tbe plain. 'Tfaese Mr. Norden immediately conjectured to be the ruins of ancient Thebes: but he was not able to prevail witb the Reis to put him ashore The man did not here plead fais -fear of the Arabs :- bis excuse was the impossibility of landing, on account of the numerous islands and sandbanks which obstructed the passage. The following evening the vessel was moored to the western bank of the Nile, nearly opposite to Karnac. TTie distance of the travellers from Cairo was now about one hundred and thirty five French leagues; Mr. Norden rose, at break of day, to examine whether there migfat not be on that side some remains of Thebes; and he did not go far before he discovered two colossal figures. Encouraged by this discovery he returned to the vessel to induce some others of the party to accompany him in searching the adjacent country. The Reis em ployed all his eloquence to dissuade and intimidate them from this design, but to no purpose. They set out from the vessel ; and, in about three hours, reached the figures that Mr. Norden had before seen. The spot on which they were found was a plains about a 164 norden's travels through league distant from the Nile. Two hundred paces from the figures were the remains of several broken statues ; and, at the distance of about half an hour's walk, were some other ruins. The colossal figures faced the Nile. One of them was the representation of a man, and the other of a woman. 'They were in a sitting posture, and on nearly cubic stones fifteen feet high. The whole height of the figures, frora their bases to the summit, was about fiftv feet. On their breasts and legs were many Greek and Latin inscriptions, which had been engraven in the time of the Romans. The sides and back of the stones on which they sat were covered witfa hieroglyphic figures. The statues did not appear to have received any otfaer injury than what had arisen from their surface having been corroded by exposure for many centuries to the weather. The Greek and Roman in scriptions had been cut upon them to testify that the voice of Memnon had been heard by several persons wfao had -caused them to be cut. The travellers next went to sorae ruins on the north side of tfae figures, and not far distant frora them ; and Mr. Norden says, there was satisfactory evidence that these were the reraains of the palace of Memnon. The columns and the walls were of great thickness and so lidity ; and every visible part of the building seemed to be covered with hieroglyphics, which had a beautiful lustre from the remains of the ancient gilding and colours tiiat had been used in decorating them. The gold, the ultramarine, and several other colours had been so permanent, that their original lustre was pre served even to this time. On the inside, upon the western wall, were three large figures, which Mr. Nor den was inclined to believe had been designed in allu sion to the fall of Adam and Eve. About fifty paces from this edifice v'ere other remains of antiquity. These were conjectured to have been part of the temple of Memnon. At a Uttle distance from them were two pihistcrs, so far separated from EGYPT AND NUBIA. 165 each other, that they could never be covered. Whence it follows, says Mr. Norden, that if this was the place on which tfae statue of Memnon faad been erected, it must have stood in the open air ; and such he considers probable, as, by an exposed situation, it would the better have received the rays of the sun, than otherwise could faave been possible. Among these ruins was another colossal figure, simi lar to those already described. It had been thrown down, and was lying balf covered with sand and earth. A head, formed of black granite, about two feet high, and executed, in the Egyptian stile, with great art and elegance, was observed lying on the ground at a Uttle distance. Leaving these extraordinary monuments of antiquity, the travellers followed a road which led tow'ards the mountains. They entered several ancient caverns, and afterwards came to Medinet Abu, a ruined city, about three quarters of a league westward of the Nile, and situated on part of the remains of Thebes. Here they saw an ancient and magnificent portal, and the remains of some other buildings that had been constructed with stones of enormous size. There were several columns, the capitals of which were incrusted with colours very pleasing to the eye. Many parts of these buildings were covered witfa hieroglyphics. On the ground, among the ruins, Mr. Norden was surprised to discover four frizes, wfaicfa appeared to be of Roman workmanship, ornamented with the heads of Diana and Bacchus, cut in relief, and the other parts covered with representa tions of vine and oak leaves. These were the more re markable, as every other part of the ruins appeared to be of Egyptian or Arabian architecture. Mr. Norden and his party returned to the vessel, and, proceeding on their voyage, they arrived on the 13th of December at Demegraed, tfae site of the ancient Crocodilopolis ; and, on the 19th, at Assuan, a city ou the eastern bank of the Nile. "The latter, though an inconsiderable place, contained, some mosques, and had 166 norden's travels through a citadel, in which an Aga resided. Assuan was distin guished from .most other places in this part of the country by the inhabitants not having any pigeon- houses at the top of their dwellings. This place was near the first cataract of the Nile. The Reis went to. tfae Aga, to announce the arrival «f the travellers, and to state that they had brought letters for hira. Qn the following morning he invited them to the citadel, and treated them with great civility. They requested him to furnish them with camels, horses, and asses, to convey them and their luggage beyond the cataract. This he agreed to do ; and the price being soon settled, he sent his brother to conduct them. The Aga also bargained witb a Reis to convey tfaera up the Nile, frora the first to the second cataract; and, all being ready in a day or two, the party set out, having with them thirteen camels, three horses, and a great number of asses. ' The road lay on the eastern side of the Nile. After they had crossed an extensive plain, skirted with rocks, they entered a defile, through which only one camel could pass at a time. Beyond this they came within sight of a Turkish fort. They proceeded cautiously along a narrow road formed by the side of the river ; and, after about two hours and a half travelUug, tfaey reached the harbour of Morrada, beyond the cataract. Here the bark was lying that the Aga had procured for them. It was smaller than that iu which they had come from Cairo ; but wfaen they had fixed their tent in it, they found it sufficiently convenient. Having taken leave of the Reis, who faad brought them from Cairo, they went on board, witfa the intention of im mediately continuing their voyage up the river; but they were told that this would be impracticable, for three or four .day% on account of the Turkish fast called Ramadam, which was begun. By the Maho metan law it is forbidden to commence any journey ou the first days of the Ramadan ; aud consequently the Reis did uot even go on board. EGYPT AND NUBIA. 167 Thus circumstanced, Mr. Norden resolved to amuse himself by examining -witfa attention sucfa curiosities as were to be found in tbe adjacent country. He faad leisure to contemplate the dift'erent parts of tfae cataract, and the rocks of granite that form it. He observed, in several places, hieroglypfaics cut even on the rocks, and also on large blocks of granite wfaich tfae ancients bad begun to work. In his. progress Mr. Norden came to a large burying-ground, friil'of stones with inscriptions. At first be mistook this for a burying place of the Turks; but, on closer examination, he discovered his mistake ; and, on inquiry, he was unable to obtain any information respecting it, further than it was supposed to have belonged to a race of people that had been de stroyed when the Calif came into Egypt. "The ensuing day was the festival of Christmas. Having occupied a portion of the morning in religious duties, be employed the remainder of the day in visiting the cataract. He and another person of the company stole out of the camp together. Jn climbing the rocks, to arrive within view of the principal fall of water, Mr. Norden espied a man engaged in fishing. The man observed them, and, by signs, pointed out to them a place where, with a little hook, they might catch ex-- cellent carp. Mr. Norden revvarded him by a trifling present, which so won upon fais affection, that fae quitted fais fisfaing to show them all the accessible places of the cataract. They passed four hours with this man, and had sufficient time to observe every thing that appeared to be worth notice. The cataract was about thirty feet in length, and not more than four feet in its fall. The fisherman afterwards conducted Mr. Norden to fais cottage, to regale him witfa some dates and milk. He showed and explained to him, as well as by signs he was able, all his furniture ; and opened one of his large jars, to explain in, what manner grain was hept in Egypt/ This grateral man afterwards carried to tbe vessel all the carp he. faad caught, and returned the next day with some milk. 168 norden's TRAVELS THROUGH A strong northerly wind sprung up, and tfae vessel sailed the next morning. She soon cleared tbe har bour above the cataract; and the first object wfaich afterwards attracted the attention of tfae voyagers, were the ancient ruins of Giesiret Ell Heift, 'These are on - an island, whicfa, by tfae ancients, was called tfae Philo, and is on tfae east side of the Nile. Its banks were like a wall cut in a rock ; and, at this time, it con tained many colonnades, ruined edifices, and otfaer magnificent reraains. On a granite rock near these ruins several hieroglyphics were observed similar to those which the travellers had seen at Assuan. Mr, Norden observed here a temple of uncomraon beauty, and in a good state of preservation. The capitals of its ]iillars, and its various other ornaments, were of the greatest delicacy. The voyagers, after leaving tfais island, continueil to sail all the remainder of the day ; and, beyond tbe village of Hindau, they saw, for the distance of a quarter of a league, the walls and foundations of many magnificent buildings, now ruined, and almost con cealed by the sand. At some distance from these, Mr. Norden remarked five or six cottages built of stones that were entirely covered with hieroglyphics. He searched in the neighbourhood to discover, if possible, the remains of any large edifice, from wfaicfa tfaese could faave been taken ; but he could discover nothing more than a confused heap of stones, which also were covered with hieroglyphics of good workman ship. He returned on board the vessel, and, not long after wards came to a part of the river, the navigation of which was attended with great danger. There were rocks from side to side, many of them concealed by the water ; and in the intervening space were many whirl ing currents, which excited great terror. No precau tion was omitted by wfaich tfae vessel could be steered safely through them ; but, uufttftunately, she did not obey her helm, and struck upou a rock. Here she was EGYPT AND NUfelA. 109 fixed in a most alarming situation ; the middle of her keel was upon the rock, and tfae rapid and circular motion of the current turned her round, as if sfae had been upon a pivot. The water around was too deep to permit the sailors to get out and relieve her : they could not even touch the bottom with their poles. After va rious ineffectual attempts to free her, the wind and current happily relieved tfaera from their erabarrassraent, and moved her off. Soon afterwards she got into deep water and proceeded safely on the voyage. When, on the 1st of January, the voyagers had ar rived at the village of Derri, the Reis declared fae would stop there, and carry them bo farther, unless they would advance him a greater sum of money than they had agreed to pay. He threatened, if they attempted to compel him to go on without this, that they should soon suffer for their imprudence. It was replied to him, tfaat, if by any stratagem, he should attempt to do them the sUghtest injury, he should be the first victim of their revenge. This menace had its effect ; and he declared himself ready ^o go with them, as far up tfae river as the vessel could sail. 'ihe voyagers observed that the sloping banks 'of the Nile were, in one part, nearly covered with lupines and radishes, which there grew wild. They were witness ' to a curious mode which the inhabitauts of that neigh bourhood had of crossing the river. Two men sat on a pack of straw, preceded by a cow, that swam before them. One of them held the tail of the cow with one hand, while, with the other, he managed a rope fastened to her horns. The man behind steered with a little oar, by means of which he preserved the equilibrium. Mr. Norden likewise saw loaded camels swim across the river. A man swam before them, having the bridle of the first camel in his mouth ; to the tail of this camel the second was tied, the third to his tail ; and a man, seated on a pack of straw, brought up the rear. His office was to take care that the second and third camels followed in a line with the first. Teav. I 170 norden's travels through Two days after tfais Mr. Norden and fais friends had a serious unpleasantness with the pilot of the vessel, in consequence of fais expecting a present of a coat, to whicfa- fae was not entitled. He left; the vessel ; but, after an hour's absence, thought proper to return, and ask permission to go on board again. This fae was allowed to do, but under a declaration, that, in case ofa relapse, he should be severely punished. The vessel proceeded as far as Deir, near the second cata ract of the Nile. Here the difficulties of proceeding any further were found so great, that Mr. Norden, though much against his inchnation, was compeUed to return. After continuing at Deir two days, the vessel was directed back again towards Cairo. The men rowed hard all day of the 7th of January, and were aided in their progress both by the wind and current. When again within sight of the ruins of Giesiret Ell Heift, Mr. Norden determined to land, in order to inspect them more attentively than he had been able to do be fore. The Reis opposed this, but to no purpose. It was late when they reached the island, and conse quently Mr. Norden was obliged to defer tbe gratifica tion of his curiosity till the next morning. As the pilot had informed him that the island was uninhabited, he was determined to land as early as possible. He took with him a l-antern ; and was followed by only one per son of the company. Their first care was to make a tour through the island, that they might form a general idea of the situation of the edifices. On examining the ruins, they were not a little surprised to observe amongst them a great number of cottages. At first they feared that the pilot had designedly led them into a snare ; but, advancing with great caution, and not bearing any dogs bark, as they had done in all other places, they began to dismiss their apprehensions ; and, w hen they came to the cottages, they found them all deserted. Their fears having now entirely subsided, they en tered the great temple of Isis. This w as a most superb monument of autiquity, aud nearly in a perfect state. EGYPT AND NUBIA. 171 Thence tiiey proceeded to another temple, which, though much smaller, was remarkable for its extraordinary elegance. Mr. Norden believed the latter to have been the temple of the Hawk. There were other temples, but he had not leisure minutely to examine them. He next saw some stairs, which, he conjectured, to have been a subterraneous way througfa the island. These he attempted, in several places, to descend, but found this impracticable, in consequence of all the passages being choked up with ruins. In the morning, as soon as the Arabians residing on the banks of the Nile, near the island, were risen, and had-perceived the vessel, they collected together, and threatened to burn her, and to destroy every man on board, if they did not immediately depart. This they were, therefore, compelled to do, to the great regret of Mr. Norden, who had hoped to have derived much knowledge from an attentive examination of the ruins. About mid-day of the i2th of January, being now arrived near the cataract whicfa they had before passed, the son of the Aga came to conduct them to Assuan. They gave their baggage into fais care, and submitted themselves to his guidance. When he approached tbe town fae turned off from it, and conducted tfae party to a place called the Aga's country house. All the bag gage was directed to be taken in there, and tiie door was ordered to be shut. This mysterious procedure sur prised, but did not mucfa alarm the voyagers ; because they were sufficiently armed to oppose, witb success, any attempt that might be made to injure them. When their conductor had paid the camel-drivers, he explained his reasons for having brought them there. He said, that the populace of Assuan faad assembled in great numbers to witness their arrival, and that fae had been desirous of avoiding any annoyance which the£e people might have occasioned. The bouse to which the voyagers had been conducted was a very uncomfortable residence. A slave was ap pointed to wait upon them. The chief convenience l2 172 Norden's travels through they had was a large yard, full of sheep and poultry i these they were permitted to use on paying for them, but at a much dearer rate than tfaey could faave pur chased them for in the public market. Tfaey continued here about ten daj's, when they em barked below the cataract, in a vessel which was hired to convey them to Cairo. The Reis and a Jew valet, who was on board, each requested the voyagers to advance them a smaU sum of money, that th^ might purchase some dates, by the sale of which they could make sorae profit at Cairo. In the evening of the 25th of January, the Reis, who had brought the traveUers from Cairo to Assuan, visited them, and 'presented them with a fine sheep, and a hamper full of bread.- He was well rewarded for this act of generosity. Two days after this tfaey arrived at Giesire Ell Mansoria, near which "place a party of Arabs was en camped. The chief ordered the voyagers to come on shore : this they did, at the same time carrying him some presents ; but, like most of the Arabs with whom they had had any dealings, they found him insatiable. On the following morning he sent them two fat sheep, but these were merely intended as an excuse for his' asking of them presents of various kinds, and of much greater value. They left the place as soon as possible ; and shortly afterwards passed the ancient temple of Konombu. On the 3d of February they landed for a little while at Luxor, aud measured and examined some of the monuments of antiquity there. They then again embarl^ed. On the 5th and 6th- they were becalmed near Dandera. On the 8th they passed the town of Hau; and a few days afterwards went ashor^ at Tsehersche, to purchase provisions. As tiiey were preparing to depart, an embargo was laid on the vessel .by the officers of the Custom House, on a diarge that there was a quantity of dates on board, which had not paid the proper duty. These were what had been purchased by the Reis and the Jew valet, who had only entered about an eighth part of the quantity EGYPT AT^n NUBIA. 173 tbey had taken on board. The fraud had been detected by the searching officer, and the vessel was stopped, nor could it be released until the duty for the entire cargo had been paid. The Reis was calle^ for, but he was not to be found. Much time was lost in rectifying the mischief that had been occasioned by" the conduct of the date merchants. The director of the Custom- House went on board, and civilly expressed himself much concerned at the trouble he must give by request ing the travellers to open some of their packages. He added, that a report had- been spread through the city, tfaat the voyagers had on board many chests full of arms : " therefore, both -for your safety and mine (said he) the most prudent way will be for a few of them to ' be opened 'before me." The demand being reasonable, the voyagers did not hesitate to comply with it. They requested him to point out any that he would wish to have opened. He fixed on two-; and the con tents of these were shown to him, and to other officers from the Custom-House who attended him. Finding that they contained only such things as were requisite for the journey, they very politely took their leave. And as soon as the director had left the vessel, she proceeded on her voyage. She next passed Meschie ; and, on the 16th of Fe bruary, arrived at Monfaluth, As soon as the officers of the Custom-House Bark at this place perceived the vessel, tfaey fired a musket, as a signal that she must be stopped to undergo an examination. Had there been no merchandize on board, she would, immediately have been- liberated ; but the unlucky dates, were the occasion of her being again delayed. The same day that she was allowed to sail, she passed Umel Gusuer, the inhabitauts of whicfa place were not celebrated for honesty; and Stahleantor, whose inhabitant^ were in famous for their piracies. In the morning of the 18th, the voyagers saw Schech Abade, the spot on which the city of Antinopolis formerly stood. Some of its edifices still remained, and were partially visible from the ves- 174 NORDEl*l's TRAVELS through sel; but'there was no possibility of going on shore to examine them. On the 19th of February the voyagers saw, near Saint Martha, thousands of cormorants, and great num bers of vultures, or Pharoah's fowl, as they are called in this country. Northward of this place, and not far distant from it, were seen somewhat Uke the ruins of an ancient city ; but these were only rock-s. Near Bene- soef the vessel got entangled amongst a little fleet of barks that were laden with corn for Cairo. At this place she was stopped for about an hour to pay a duty, which is exacted from every bark that proceeds down the river. The voyagers here saw a bark aground, which, in the preceding night, had been attacked by robbers. Her crew, not being in a condition to make any defence, had cut the rope that had fastened her to the shore, and had run her adrift down the current. It was in consequence of this that she had been thrown upon the sand. Ou the 22d they had a near view of the pyra mids of Sakara. The men plied their oars early in the following morning ; and they reached Old Cairo the same day. Mr. Norden subsequently proceeded down the Nile, and embarked for Leghorn. Thence he went to Venice, where he remained a short time ; and fae finaUy re turned by land to his own country. On his arrival in Denmark he was introduced to the king, to whom he detailed a circumstantial account of the objects be had seen, and exhibited numerous draw ings that he had made. Louisa. I hope the king was satisfied with Mr. Nor den's success. Frederic. He was perfectly so; and he directed him immediately to prepare an account of his travels, that it might be published. Edmund, But this was not all. As a reward for his services, Mr. Norden was promoted to the rank of a captain in the royal navy, and appointed one of the EGYPT AND NU.BIA. 175 members of a commission established for the building of vessels. Mr. Allen, Not long afterwards, I think, he was in England. Frederic, Yes, sir : at the commencement of a war between this country and Spain, it .was considered de sirable that several Danish officers should be employed in our fleets. Among these, Captain Norden was one. He arrived in Londou in the month of February, 1740 } and, shortly afterwards, joined a fleet that was com manded by Sir John Norris. Lady Irwin. This new engagement must have inter rupted the preparation of his work for the press. Edmund, Previously to his leaving Denmark, he had prepared his description of Alexandria and the pyra mids ; but, by his voyage to England, he was com pelled to defer the completion of his work till more peaceable times. However desirous he might be to complete it, he was still more desirous not to neglect the duties of fais profession. Frederic, The project on which tfae fleet of Sir Jofan Norris was about to be engaged was abandoned ; and Captain Norden, in October of the same year, sailed with Sir Chaloner Ogle to America. Mr. Allen, You have omitted to state the very fa vourable manner in whicfa he was received in Eng land. Edmund. The reputation of Captain Norden as a man of distinguished talent, and a well-informed tra- veUer, procured him tbe notice of many persons of rank and learning. Among others, he was introduced to tfae Prince of Wales, the father of his present majesty, who showed hira ranch kindness. Frederic. On his return from America, in 1741, he spent neariy a year in London; and was admitted, a member of the Royal Society. But unhappily his health now began to decline. He was employed in preparing the subsequeut part of his travels for the press, when liis close application soon exhausted a frauie already 176 TRAVELLERS. much worn down by fatigue ; for his weak and delicate constitution by no means corresponded with the active ardour of his mind. He was advised, as tbe only possi ble means of recovering his health, to try the effect of a. change of climate ; and, in company with the Count Danneskiold, a Danish nobleman, who had been long and sincerely attached /to him, he went to France. Whilst in Paris his disorder suddenly and alarmingly increased ; and he survived his departure from Eng land only a few months. Captain Norden died at Paris OH the 22d of September, 1742, in the thirty-fourth year of his age. Lady Irwin. The death of such a man, at so early an age, must have been a great public loss ; and parti cularly as it happened before his travels were printed, Mr. Allen. Having been conscious of the approach of his death, he carefully arranged all tbe papers that faad any relation to fais travels. These he gave into the charge of fais friend Count Danneskiold. Edmund. And his will, written by himself, contained the following account of them : — "If these papers fall into any other hands, they must not expect to -find in them a complete description of the places I faave seen. Tfaey are only memorandums written upon tfae spot ; and they contain nothing but the course of my voyage, the accidents that faave faappened to me iu it, and the remarks that I faave been able to make. If I relate any particular that is a little interesting,- it should be consi dered, that it may be of service to inform those persons wfao may have the same voyage to make. Tfae whole is written with a good intention, aud without any embel lishment. Truth alone is my guide. I willingly permit any censure upon the style ; it has need of correction. But I earnestly entreat that no other alteration be made. I do not desire that my observations should be esteemed beyond their due value. I have done my best. I have not , written a syllable that I am uot thoroughly con vinced of I would not -avail myself of the proverb, that ' travellers have a privilege of lying.' The reader NORDEN. 177 may believe me upon my word, and rely on the authen ticity of my draw ings." Lady Irwin. I hope, sir, fais instructions were at tended to. Mr. Allen. Tfaey appear to have been so ; for the persons to whose care the papers were finally entrusted, assert, that, in the arrangement of his work fbr the press, they had never lost sight of the directions that were given by faim. Frederic. It is, however, to be recollected, that the original manuscripts were in the Danish language ; and that it was requisite to translate them into French for the purpose of publication. Mr. Allen. And the splendid style in which the work was pubUshed, in two folio volumes, accompanied by two hundred and twenty engravings, executed by one of the best artists of the time, afforded an honourable testimony to the merit of the author. The English translation appeared in the year 1757. It contains im pressions of all the original engravings, and is one of the most magnificent books ever published in this country. Louisa. When I was in London last winter, I saw, in the British Museum, several Egyptian antiquities : is it known whether any of these had been seen by Captain Norden when he was in Egypt? - Mr. Allert. I am not aware that any which you saw were, except, perhaps, a fragment covered with hiero glyphics, that was found at the foot of Pompey's Pillar. Maria, May I ask, sir, whether hieroglyphics were not an ancient mode of picture writing ? Mr. Allen. Correctly speaking, hieroglyphics are sculptures or carvings, which symbolically denote (by particular figures or designations of external or corpo real objects) sacred, moral, and religious tiliths.^ 'The origin of this kind of writing is generally believed to have been in Egypt ; and it is undoubtedly true, that hieroglyphics there first assumed the form of a regular system. 13 178 TRAVELLERS. Sir Charles, Before the invention of writing, the most natural way of communicating ideas, was to give jigns instead of words, and to draw a picture or repre sentation -of the thing signified. It was, however, re quisite not only to express simple ideas by tfaese pic- tural representations, but to communicate abstract notions, and various qualities. The simple representa tion of an eye, for instance, only expresses that organ ; but when drawn in a cloud, and seen from above, it de noted the inspection of the Deity. A serpent wrapped in circular foldings, and the end not easily seen, denoted the perpetual duration of God : a figure with several heads, and eyes looking to every quarter, represented fais universal observation ; and the head of a hawk, with its keen eye, pointed out the penetrating know ledge of God. A sceptre was employed to denote power ; a Uon, to give the idea of strength ; and a dog, of fidelity. . There are various figures of monstrous animals, like the sphinx, which also were connected witfa hieroglyphical sentiments. Louisa, What was the Sphinx intended to denote ? , Sir Charles. It emblematically denoted the season for the rising of the waters of the Nile; that is, the period when the sun enters the constellations Leo and Virgo;. for from these two constellations the figure of a sphinx is formed. It has a lion's body, with the head and breast of a woman. The word sphinx, in the Chaldee dialect, signifies to " overflow ;" and the cause of the overflowing of the Nile, having been a riddle, or enigma, to the ancients, probably gave rise to the ac counts that have been mentioned, of enigmas pro pounded by the sphinx. Maria. Will you inform me how the periodical flow ing of the Nile is occasioned. Sir Charles. If you refer to the map of Africa, you will observe, that this river is of great extent, and has its rise far beyond the tropic of Cancer. Between the tropics rain falls incessantly every year for several months. The waters of the country adjacent to the NORDEN. 179 Nile fall into that river, and thus cause its annual over flow in Egypt. This is the case with other rivers which have their source in tropical climates. Louisa. But sometimes the Nile is said to be irre gular in the period of its overflow : how is this account ed for, sir? Sir Charles. By tfae winds, which, occasionally blow ing in a direction contrary to that of its current, par tially impede its progress towards the sea. As it seldom rains in Egypt, the Author of Nature has wisely ordained that this want of rain should be supplied by an annual inundation of the river. Mr. Allen. I ara desirous of stating a few circum stances which have lately been made known relative to the Great Sphinx, near the pyramids. A short time ago M. Belzoni, a native of Rome, aud Mr. Salt, the British consul at Cairo, uncovered the front of it ; and nu merous pieces of antiquity, as unexpected as they were extraordinary, were developed. Among other things, a small temple was discovered between the legs, having within it a sculptured lion and a small sphinx, lu one of the paws of the great sphinx was another temple, with a sculptured lion standing on an altar. In front were the reraains of buildings, apparently teraples ; and in these were several granite slabs with inscriptions cut on thera. One was by the Roman emperor, Claudius Caesar, recording his visit-to the pyramids ; and another by Antonius Pius : both the inscriptions, with the two lions, have been sent to the British Museum. Several paint-pots were also found near the sphinx, with paint of different colours in them. Louisa. You quite astonish me. What an enormous mass of sculpture the sphinx must have originally been, to have rendered it possible to form a temple, however small, betwixt its legs. • Maria. When we next go to London I hope we may again visit the British Museum. Mr. Allen. I have no doi^bt you will be highly grati fied; for, in the course of a few years, it is probabi* 180 TRAVELLERS. that this Museum may become the richest depository in the world of Egyptian antiquities. Louisa. Frederic, in fais narrative, has not mentioned the height of Pompey's Pillar; has it not been mea sured? Mr. Allen. It has ; and its whole heigfat, including the base, pedestal, shaft, and capital, is about ninety- two feet : its- diameter is somewhat more than nine feet. Maritf. I cannot imagine how it is possible to mea sure the height of a detached column like that. I never heard of a ladder ninety-two feet long. - Mr. Allen. There are various modes tion afforded. Mr. Hearne's tent was then pitched for the accommodation of such of the company as the In dians' tent would not hold. Early in the ensuing morn ing an attack was made on the beavers, and six were killed, all of which were cooked and devoured the same day. On the lltli of December, to the great astonishment of tfae governor, Mr. Hearne again arrived at Prince of Wales's Fort. Mr. Allen. The surprise of the governor was not; greater than the mortification of Mr. Hearne faimself, at tfais unexpected termination of his enterprise. Frederic. We must not call it a termination ; for he shortly afterwards was induced to head a second ex pedition. There happened at this time to be at Prince of Wales's Fort an Indian, who stated that he had been very near the Copper-mine' river ; and the governor en. gaged faim to conduct Mt. Hearne. The latter would not now permit any European to accompany him, as the two wfao faad been with him in the former journey had been treated with such marked negUgence by the Indians, that, in times of scarcity, he had several times been in dread lest they should be starved to death. Narrative of Mr. Hearne's Second Jowrney from Prince of Wales's Fort towards the Northern Ocean, Accompanied by three northern and two southern Indians, Mr. Hearne commenced his second journey on the 23d of February, 1770. The snow at this time was so deep, that, on the ramparts of Prince of Wales's 22-4 hearne's SECOND JOURNEY Fort, few of the cannon could be seen. The party con tinued their course nearly in the sarae direction as that which Mr. Hearne had pursued in his former journey, tiU tfaey arrived at Seal River; but, instead of crossing this, they followed the course of the stream for some distance. The weather had been so boisterous and changeable, that tbey had frequently been obliged to continue two or three nights in the same place ; but, to make up for this inconvenience, deer were plentiful, and the Indians killed as many as tbey wished. On the 9tb of March, being again destitute of provi sions, some of the Indians went out, and at night one of them returned with a porcupine ; others had angled througfa holes found in the ice, and faad caught several trout. All these together afforded them a plentiful supper. They frequently caught fish both by angling and setting nets through the ice. At the place where they were now stationed, it was agreed that they should continue till about the middle of May, when the weather would be more open, and the travelUng could be performed with much less difficulty than hitherto bad been the case. They consequently proceeded to build a tent, and to make it as corarao- dious as the materials they possessed, and tfae situation in whicfa they were placed, would permit. To do this they cleared away the snow, in a circular form, down to the moss. Several poles were driven into the ground and fastened together at tfae top. Over these was stretched the covering, made of elk or moose leatfaer ; and a hole was left at tbe top to serve the double pur pose of' a chimney aud window. The fire was made on the ground in the centre, and the other parts of the floor were covered with small branches of fir-tree, which served both for seats and bods. The external air was excluded as much as possible. The tent was on a slight elevation, near an extensive lake, the shores of which abounded with wood ; anil also near a rapid streara, which, even iu the severest weather, yielded them an ample supply of fish. Mr. TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 225" Hearne occupied fais time in making observations, and filUng up a chart of his journey; and also in forming and setting traps for martins, and otfaer quadrupeds, and snares for partridges. The, chief important occu pation of the Indians was to procure food. No very remarkable occurrence took place till the 2-tth of April, when, early in the day, a considerable number of Indians was observed on the lake. On their arrival at tfae tent they were found to be the wives and families of some northern Indians, .who were gone to Prince of Wales's Fort to shoot wild geese. Towards the end of April the travellers proceeded two days' journey further, and pitched their tent near a branch of the Seal River, called She-than-ee, The distress of Mr. Hearne and his party from want of pro visions was now so great, that, for five or six days, they h-ad no other subsistence than a few cranberries, which they gatliered from the ridges of the land where the snow was thawed away. 'They set their fishing-nets and angled in every place Ukely to afford success, but to little purpose. On the 13th of May, however, their distress was in some degree alleviated by the Indians killing two swans and three wild geese. A few days afterwards, geese, swans, ducks, gulls, and other birds of passage, were so plentiful, that they every day killed as many as were sufficient for their support. And,. having continued a few days to recruit their spirits, after so long a fast, they began on the 23d to proceed' in their.journey. By the addition of the wife cf one of the Indian guides, and of five otfaer Indians whom Mr. Hearne had engaged to assist in carrying the luggage (for the season was at hand when this could no longer be drawn in sledges) the party was uicreased to twelve persons. 'The weather, for some tirae, had been remarkably pleasant, and game of all kinds was plentiful. Tbey continued their course northward on Seal River, and over several lakes connected with it, till the 1 st of June,, when they arrived at a place called Beralzone, l3 226 hearne's SECOND JOURNEY The snow was not yet dissolved ; but it was so soft that walking over it in suow shoes was becorae very laborious. A few days afterward both tfae shoes and sledges were thrown away, as of no further use ; and it was resolved that every man should carry a load upon his back. This was found to be exceedingly laborious. The part of the luggage that was carried by Mr. Hearne consisted of a quadrant and its stand, a trunk containing books, papers, &c., a land-compass, and a large bag with his wearing apparel ; a hatchet, knives, files, and other usefulimptements; besides several small articles intended, as presents for the natives,. The awkwardness of his load, added to its great weight, (upwards of sixty pounds), and now the excessive faeat of tfae weather, rendered tfais the most laborious task he had ever encountered. Tfae faardship was in creased by the badness of tbe road; aud the party being occasionally exposed to great severity of weather from want of proper tents to shelter themselves in at night, for they had been obliged to cut up tfaeir tent for sfaoes. Another inconvenience arose from tfae impossi bility of making a fire, when they were travelling through countries destitute of woodj whenever tfais was the case, they were compelled to eat all tfaeir meat raw. Notwithstanding these accumulated and compli cated hardships, tfaey continued in perfect health and in good spirits. From the 20th to the 23d of June tbey walked every day near twenty miles without any other subsistence, if such it could be called, than a pipie of tobacco, and a little water. Partridges and gulls, of which tfaey some time before had been able to obtain a great abundance, were now so scarce that scarcely one could be procured. They were in a barren country,, and nearly an hundred miles distant frora any woods. The weather also be came extremely cold, and so wet, that, for three suc cessive days and nights, Mr. Hearne faad no part of his clothes dry. During tfais journey he frequently expe rienced the most dreadful effects of hunger and fatigue. TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 227 In more than one instance he was reduced to so low a state, that, when food was obtained, fae was scarcely able to retain in fais stomach more than two or three ounces without experiencing tfae most excruciating pain. Twice they were compelled to fast more than tfaree days ; and once nearly seven days, with the exception of a few cranberries, and some scraps of old leather and burnt bones. On these distressing occasions Mr. Hearne says, tfaat he frequently saw the Indians examine their wardrobe of skin clothing, and consider what part could best be spared. Sometimes a piece of an old half decayed deer-skin, and at others even' a pair of old shoes, have been sacrificed to alleviate extreme hunger. On the 30th of June the party arrived at a small river, called Catfiawhacaga, wfaich empties itself^ into an extensive lake. Here they found several tents of northern Indians ; and they obtained a small supply of venison. When they had crossed the stream, they stopped a little while, with the intention of drying and pounding some of the meat, to take with them as food for the journey ; but tfaey faad been able fo obtain so little, that, at the time of their departure, they had not provision sufficient to furnish them with a supper. As Mr. Hearne's guide stated, that, in a little while, they should have many unfordable rivers to pass, he purchased of the Indians a canoe. The price they asked for it was a knife, worth about a penny. This additional piece of luggage was so inconvenient that Mr. Hearne was induced to hire one of the Indians to carry it. During a considerable part of the month of July, the Indians, in company with Mr. Hearne, killed so many deer and musk-oxen, that tfaey faad an abundant supply of food. About the end of the month the guide stated, that the year was too far advanced for them to enter- lain any hope of being able to reach the place of their destination that summer. He therefore advised Mr. Hearne to pass the winter with some of the Indians of. 228 hearne's SECOND JOURNEY the country through which they were travelling. To this arrangement he assented ; and a few days after wards he arrived at an extensive encampment of Indians, consisting, in the whole, of more than seventy tents, and six hundred persons. Though the country was so barren as to be destitute of every kind of herbage, ex cept moss and a species of plant which the Indians used as tea, deer were so nuraerous, that more were killed than were sufficient for the whole company; indeed great numbers were slain only for the sake of the skins, marrow, and tongues, the carcases being left on the ground to rot, or be devoured by wolves, foxes, and other beasts of prey. The Indians travelled in a body westward, and Mr. Heariie bad to use the canoe which be carried along with him, in crossing several rivers.. The Indians whom he had joined, were so uncourteous in every respect towards him, that he had Uttle hope of receiving assist ance from them anylonger thah while he was possessed of valuables to reward them. During the whole time he was in their company they did not once offer him even a morsel of food, without asking something in ex change for it, much beyond its value. Indeed so incon siderate were they, that, although he and fais few In dians carried all their luggage upon their backs, these people Seemed to expect he had with him a most exten sive assortment of goods. Some of them wanted guns : all were desirous of ammunition, iron-work, and tobacco ;. many were solicitous for medicine ; and others pressed him to give them different articles of clothing. This unaccountable conduct occasioned to Mr. Hearne con siderable alarm, as it plainly showed how little he had to expect if he should be reduced to the necessity of depending upon them for support. In the morning of the lllh of August, Mr. Hearne,. ¦after having used his quadrant iu making some astro nomical observations, was unfortunate enough to faave it blown down by a gust of wind and broken. By this misfortune he was couipeUed to give up all thought of TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 229 proceeding further, and to return once more to Prince of Wales's Fort. On the ensuing day he and his ' companions were plundered by the Indians of almost every useful article tfaey possessed ; and, among others, of his gun. They entered fais tent (which, at that time, consisted only of three walking-sticks stuck into the ground, and a blanket thrown over them), and asked hira to give them many things which he did not possess; and finding their wishes uot likely to be complied with, they forcibly took his baggage, spread all the articles upon the ground, and carried away every thing except his broken quadrant and his books, a knife, to cut his victuals, and an awl and needle to mend his shoes and clothes with. They subsequently gave him back one of his razors, and a piece of soap ; and lastly they re tumed his gun, as being of no use to thera without ammunition. The autumn was now fast advancing, and Mr. Hearne began to suffer much inconvenience from the inclemency of the weather, beuig destitute of proper clothing, and having no tent in which to shelter himself. ¦ His pro gress homeward was at the rate of ten or twelve miles a day. Happily for him provisions were sufficiently abundant. After contending with innumerable difficulties for nearly three months longer, Mr. Hearne, at length, in the afternoon of the 25th of November, arrived at Prince of Wales's Fort, after an absence of eight months and twenty-two days, on a second unfortunate and un successful journey. FOURTEENTH EVENING, i Frederic. Notwithstanding the difficulties and the hardships which had been experienced by Mr. Hearne iu his two late, attempts, he was still not discouraged; 230 hearne's THIRD JOURNEY and when a third expedition was proposed, he offered his services to conduct it. Sir Charles, And these, no doubt, were accepted. The courage and perseverance of this gentleman must have been truly admirable. Mr, Allen. The -present expedition was commenced in consequence of information that had been received from Matonabbee, a famous Indian chief. This Indian had been mentioned in Mr. Hearne's first instructions, as a person whom the Hudson's Bay Company would direct to meet him near the end of his journey, to con duct hira to the river of whicfa he was in search. Frederic. Matonabbee had, in his youth, resided several years at Prince of Wales's Fort ; -and he was not only a perfect raaster of tfae Indian language, but also had acquired some knowledge of English. His manners were mild and conciUating, and his general disposition good. He was a man of extensive information, correct -judgment, and great experience. He had also a free dom of speech and a correctness of language not usual among Indians. Matonabbee offered his assistance to conduct Mr. Hearne in this third expedition. He as sured him that it was very probable he might not expe rience so much hardship during the whole journey as he had already suffered, thougfa he had scarcely ad vanced one-third of the way. Lady Irwin. This seems extraordinary. On what was his assertion grounded ? Frederic, He said that all Mr. Hearne's preceding misfortunes had originated in the misconduct of his guides, and the bad plans that had been pursued. He recommended that several Indian women should be taken, for the purpose of carrying and dragging tfae baggage, and performing other laborious offices. Louisa, Is this the mode in which females are treated by the Indians iu America? Mr, Allen. Among these people, while the men are occupied in tfae chase, the women are employed in dress- uig skins, making clothes, carrying burthens, and often TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 231 in the most laborious duties. They are treated rather as tbe slaves than as the companions of their husbands. Tasks are imposed upon tiiem without feeling or consi deration, and they are severely beaten if they neglect to perform them. Their services are exacted and received without requital, acknowledgment, or complacency. It must also be remarked, that most of the Indians, of whom we are speaking, had a plurality of wives. Louisa. It is to be hoped that they will in time be come more civilized, and will learn how to appreciate more correctly the value and the services of their wives. The introduction of the Christian religion would, in this respect, be of the utmost importance to thera. Frederic, In Mr. Hearne's instructions for his third expedition, it is stated that Matonabbee had been en gaged as his guide, and that he had selected some of his best men to assist; that he was to conduct Mr. Hearne to the copper-mine river; but that in other respects Mr. Hearne was to be directed by the instruc tions he had before received. Narrative of Mr. Hearne's Third Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort towards the Northern Ocean. On the 7th of December, 1770, Mr. Hearne set out on his third journey ; and the weather, for the season, was very mild. He had with him several Indians and their wives ; and the ammunition, provisions, and other luggage, were hauled in sledges over the. snow. Six days after the commencement of' their journey, the party arrived at Seal River. On the 16th tbey reached Egg River, near which Matonabbee, the Indian guide, and his crew, faad some time before concealed a quantity of provisions. Tfaese they now sought for, but their store had been robbed. This loss was severely* felt, as, for some time past, there had been a total want of every kind of game. The disappointment and loss, however, were borne by them with great fortitude ; and the only apparent effect it had on the Indians was to induce them 232 hearne's THIRD JOURNEY to hasten their journey as rapidly as possible towards a; country which they expected would be more productive than that through which they were passing. The days, however, being short, the sledges heavy, and part of the road very bad, their progress seldom exceeded six teen or eighteen railes a day. In a few days they came to a place where some Indians had lately resided. Here they found several joints of good meat, which had been thrown aside and left as useless. 'These afforded them a very acceptable meal. The country over which they now traveUed was en tirely barren ; and, for many successive days, they were ' almost wholly destitute of food. They bad only a little tobacco left, and their strength began to fail. The 25th of December now arrived ; and Mr. Hearne says, that he had never before spent so dull a Christ mas. When he recollected the merry season which was then passing, and reflected on the immense quantities and great variety of delicacies which were expend ing in every part of Christendom, he observes, that be could not refrain frora wishing himself again in Europe, if it had only been to have had an opportunity of aUe- viating his extreme hunger with the refuse of the table of any one of his acquaintance. At length, on the 27th of December, the party arrived at some woods. Here the Indians killed four deer, which proved a very im portant supply. They were so delighted with their success, that, sitting down to dinner, tbey did not cease frora eating during the whole remainder of the day. Early in the following rtiorning the party again set out, and directed their course westward through thick shrubby woods; and, on the 30th, they reached the east side of Island Lake, where the Indians killed two large bucks. They proceeded to cross this lake upon the ice ; but in the evening Matonabbee was taken ill, owing, as Mr. Hearne thought, to the enormous quan tity of meat he had eaten on the 27th. Nothing, he observes, is more common with the American IncUans, TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 233 after they have eaten as much at a sitting as would' serve six moderate men, to find their stomachs disor dered ; yet they will never admit that this is occasioned by their gluttony. During a whole day Matonabbee was so ill that it was necessary to drag him along upon a sledge ; but the next morning fae was sufficiently recovered to be capable of walking. Mr. Hearne now proceeded towards the north-west ; and, about sixteen miles beyond the Island Lake, he came to two tents whicfa contained the remainder of the wives and families of his guides, amounting in the whole to twenty women and children. They had with them two men, and were waiting the return of their husbands from Prince of Wales's Fort. - After leaving Island L-ake provisions of all kinds be came scarce, and continued so for nearly a fortnight ; about the end of wfaich tirae the Indians killed twelve deer. This induced thera to pitch their tents; and, as deer were plentiful in the neighbourhood, they deter mined to remain there a few days to dry and pound some meat, in order to made it lighter for carriage. On the 22d of January, 1771, the party met with a stranger, an Indian, who had one of Matonabbee's wives under his care. This was the first stranger they had seen since they left the fort, though they had travelled several hundred miles. In tfae beginning of February,' thougfa still traveUing in the woods, they were so near the edge of them, that tfae barren ground was in sight towards the nortfa. On the 7th they crossed the Par-. tridge Lake, at a place where it was about fourteen miles in width. . It is impossible, says Mr. Hearne, to describe the intenseness of the cold which they experienced this day ; and tbe dispatch they made in crossing the lake was almost incredible, as it was performed Jny the greatest part of the crew in less than two hours. Se veral of the Indians were much frozen. Some parts of the body of one of the woraen in particular, were, in a wanner, incrusted by the frost; and, when they were 234 hearne's THIRD JOURNEY tiiawcd, many blisters arose nearly as large as sheeps' bladders. She suffered the most excruciating pain be- " fore she was recovered. Deer were now so plentiful, and were kUled by the Indians in such numbers, that they often left great quantities of good meat behind tfaem, which they were unable eitfaer to eat or to carry away. On the 21 st they crossed the Snow-bird Lake ; and about ten days afterwards reached the eastern bank of tfae Whooldyah, or Pike Lake. Here tfaey found a large tent of nortfaern Indians, who had been living tfaere from the beginning of the winter ; and faad sub sisted entirely by killing deer. They stopped one night in company with these Indians, and the next morning proceeded to cross the lake. Three days were occupied in passing.it, though at this place it was only twenty- seven miles broad. In the early part of March the rigour of the weather began to abate, and, at times, the sun shone witfa great briUiance. ~ Before the end of the month, however, the weather became so stormy and bad, that the travellers wiere compelled to pitch their tents, and to continue in the same place for several successive days. They had lately met with a few detached parties of Indians. On the 8th of April they arrived at a small lake called Thelewey-aza-yeth, or the Little Fish Hill; and having crossed upon the ice to an island in this lake, tbey there pitched their tents. The reason for this procedure was, that the island abounded in deer, and the Indians were desirous of drying and pounding meat for their future subsistence. During the winter several other Indians faad joined them ; so that tfaey faad now seven tents, and consisted in tfae wfaole of seventy persons. As their present station was a convenient one for tfae purpose, Ifaey prepared a quantity of slender staves of birch-wood, to serve tiicm as tent-poles in the summer, while on the barren ground. They also prepared a considerable quantity of birch-rind, together with tim bers and other wood-work fpr the building of canoes. TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 235 These they carried with thera, to be in readiness against the breaking up of the ice. They now proceeded northward; and, shortly after wards, coming to a tent of northern Indians, iVIaton- abbee purchased of them another wife. He had now seven, most of whom, for size, would have made good grenadiers; and their masculine height and strength were of great importance in carrying or dragging heavy loads. By the 23d of April the weather had become so hot, and so much snow had in consequence been melted, as rendered the walking in snow shoes very inconvenient, and the dragging of the sledges extremely heavy and laborious. On the 3d of May they arrived at a small lake called Clowey Lake. Here they were met by several other Indians, and all were soon actively em ployed in building canoes, for their future use. Those for Mr. Hearne's party being complete by the 20th of May, they set out on that day to continue their journey. The chief use of these canoes was to ferry over unford able rivers, and they were constructed of materials so light, that an Indian has been known to carry one of them a hundred or a hundred and fifty miles ou his back. All the tools used by an Indian in building his canoe, and indeed in every other' kind of wood-work, consisted of a hatcfaet, a knife, a file, and an awl ; aud in the use of these they were so dexterous, that every thing they made was executed with a neatness not to be excelled even by the most expert mechanic, assisted with every tool he could desire. During Mr. Hearne's continuance at Clowey, his party had been joined by upwards of two hundred Indians from different quarters;' but owing to Maton abbee's great authority and power among them, they did not attempt the slightest molestation. * About three days after Mr. Hearne and his party had left Clowey Lake, they issued from the woods, and en tered upon an extensive tract of barren ground. They were now to the northward of sixty-four degrees of 230 hearne's THIRD JOURNEY north latitude; and even at midnight, in clear weather, there was sufficient light to admit of their either pro ceeding on their journey, or hunting. The beginning; of June was passed before the ice began to thaw frora tfae lakes ; and tfae travellers faad crossed four lakes on tfae ice since tfaey left Clowey. The weather was in general disagreeable, accompanied with mucfa rain and snow. On tfae 21st of June tfaey were considerably to the north of the arctic polar circle. Here they found several Indians of the tribe called Copper Indians. The ice at lengtfa broke up ;. and, on the 22d, they were obliged to use their canoes in ferrying across one of the rivers. Tfaeir number was not at this tirae rauch fewer than a hundred and fifty. The Copper Indians offered every assistance to promote tfae objects of tfae expedition : they spoke of the sea to the northward, at the mouth of tfae Copper T'iver, but said they had never known it to be clear of ice. Mr. Hearne was the first Englishman they had ever seen^ and it was curious to observe how they flocked around faim, expressing as earnest a desire to examine faim, as if fae had been some non-descript auimal. They pro nounced him to be a perfect human being, except in the colour of his hair and eyes. The former, they said, was like the stained hair of a bufialo's tail; and the latter, being light, were like those of a gull. The whiteness of his skin also was, in their opinion, no orna ment; as, they said, it resembled meat thaf faad been sodden in water till all the blood was extracted. On the whole, he was viewed as so great a curiosity in this part of the world, that, during his continuance among them, he never even combed his head but. some of them begged to have the hairs that come off: these they carefully wrapjied up and kept in remembrance of him. The travellers a little while afterward arrived at the Congecathawhachaga river, about tbe sixty-eighth de gree of north 1-dtitude; and it was proposed by Maton abbee and the other Indians to leave aU their women, 8i}d proceed to the Copper-iuiue River without them. TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 237 previously to this, however, they resolved to continue here a few days, for the purpose of killing as many deer as would be sufficient for the support of their families during their absence. They preserved the meat by cutting it into slices, and drying these in the sun ; and meat thus prepared, Mr. Hearne says, is not only very portable, but is sufficiently palatable; and may with care be kept, even for twelve months, without being spoiled. Every thing being in readiness, the travelleis, accom panied by some of the Copper Indians as guides, pro ceeded iu their journey on the 2d of July. 'The weather was very unfavourable, accompanied with m.uch snow and sleet. In a few days tbey approachted* what the Indians call the Stony Mountains. These appeared to be a confused and extensive raass of stones, utterly in accessible to the foot of man ; but the Copper Indians pointed out a way through thera, and contrived to make sufficient progress, though, in many parts, the way was so rough that they were obliged to crawl on their hands and knees. Notwithstanding the intricacy of the road, there was a visible path through the whole distance, even in the most intricate places. Sometimes the snow, sleet, and rain, beating iu their faces, pre vented the party from seeing their way; and then they were obliged to halt awhile till the bad weather abated. In this case they sheltered tfaemselves under great' stones.'or in the crevices of rocks. From the time of their leaving Congecalhawhacfaaga, they had scarcely ever a dry garment ; nor, indeed, faad tfaey any otfaer shelter from tbe inclemency of the weather, except rocks and caves ; the best of which afforded but damp and unwholesome lodgings. -In some of these the water. was constantly dripping from the roof; and, for many successive days, cold as it was, they were unable to light a fire. During this part of the journey they were consequently compelled to regale themselves only on raw venison. 238 hearne's third journey Though it was now very little after Midsummer, they were so far northward, that they crossed a large lake on the ice. This Mr. Hearne called Buffalo or Musk- ox Lake,-from the great number of these animals which were seen grazing on its margin. On the 10th of July, Matonabbee sent several Indians forward, with orders to proceed to the Copper-mine River as speedily as possible, and to acquaint any Indians tbey might meet with of the approach of the party. Tfae weather was now hot and sultry. On the 13th, the travellers entered upon a part bf the country which afforded good fire-wood ; they consequently pitched their tents, and cooked tfae most comfortable meal they faad sat down to for many months. . It was a perfect feast. They had venison boiled, broiled, and roasted ; and what was principally relished by tfae Indians, was a kind of haggis, made with blood, a quantity of fat cut small, and some of the tenderest of the flesh, together with the heart and lungs cut, or rather torn, into small pieces : all this was put into the stomach of tfae animal, and roasted before the fire, suspended by a string. Mr. Hearne says, that he found it a most delicious dish, even without pepper, salt, or any other seasoning. After havjng regaled themselves in a most plentifol manner, and taken a few hours rest, the party set for ward. They walked nine or ten miles, and then arrived at the long wisfaed-for stream, the Copper-mine River. On his arrival at this river Mr. Hearne was not a little surprised to find it difler very much from tfae de scriptions tfaat had been given of it by the Indians. They spoke of its being so large as to be navigable for shijiping ; but the part that Mr. Hearne saw was scarcely navigable for a canoe. It was, indeed, about one hun dred and eighty yards wide, but it was every where full of shoals, and no fewer than three falls or cataracts in it were in sight at first view. Near the vrater's edge there was some wood ; but not a single tree grew among the adjacent hiUs ; and the whole timber of the neigh- TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 239 bourhood, even in its greatest prosperity, was so crooked and dwarfish, that it could faave been of little use for any other purpose than fire- wood. Early in tfae morning of the 15th of July, Mr. Hearne began his survey. This fae continued about ten miles down the river, till, heavy rain coming on, he was com pelled for a while to cease. The whole course of the stream he found to be as full of shoals as the part that he faad seeu the day before : in many places its width greatiy diminished ; and, in his progress, he passed two lofty cataracts. 'The Copper-mine River was at this time frequented by considerable numbers of Esquimaux Indians, who came thither to hunt and fisfa; and, notwithstanding tfae general good character and conduct of tfae American Indians, who had accompanied Mr. Hearne, they faad wickedly resolved to attack such of the Esquimaux as they should find ; and, if possible, to destroy every in dividual of tfaera. Mr. Hearne earnestly endeavoured to divert them from this intention, but in vain. On the 16th of July they received intelligence frora spies wfaom they had sent down the river, tfaat there were five tents of Esquimaux on the western bank, about twelve miles distant. No sooner was this inteUigence received, than Matonabbee and his party ceased all the assist ance they faad afforded in tfae survey ; and their whole thoughts were engaged in planning an attack for the ensuing night. Tfaeir guns, spears, targets, &c. were all prepared. They then crossed the river. When they faad done this, each man painted the front of his target with some figure. On one was a representation of the sun, on another that of the moon ; some of them were painted with different kinds of birds and beasts of prey, and many with the images of imaginary beings which they believed to inhabit the different elements. Mr. Hearne, who was compelled to follow them or be left alone, was informed that each man painted his shield with the image of that being on which he chiefly relied for success in the approaching engagement. These 240 hearne's third JOtFRNEV - paintings were executed in a very rude style, and for the most part only in two colours, red and black. Matonabbee was the leader of this horrid enterprise. They marched in the most cautious manner imagin able, and at length arrived within two hundred yards of the" tents of tbe Esquimaux. Here they concealed themselves, and performed the ceremony of painting their faces, some black, some red,* and others wi|;h a mixture of the two colours ; and made other' prepara tions for the attack. By the time they had rendered themselves completely frightful it was near one o'clock in the morning. All tfae Esquimaux being now quiet iu tbeir tents, the ferocious Indians rushed on them; and, in a few seconds, the horrible scene commenced. It was shocking beyond description. The miserable Es quimaux were surprised in the mid; so that the sand and gravel irritated tfaem in sucfa a manner, tfaat, for a wfaole day before tfae party arrived at the women's tents, fae left the print of his feet in blood at almost every step he took. Had the Indians continued to" travel at the same rate for too or three days longer, Mr. Hearne must unavoidably have been left behind. Immediately on his arrival at the tents fae wasfaed and cleansed his feet in warm water ; and after some other .simple applications, and a little rest, they were healed. Before the return of the party to the arctic circle, they went sonj^what westward of the line of their route to the Copper-mine river ; and, after passing that circle, they arrived, on the 3d of September, at a small river belonging to a lake, called by Mr. Hearne Point Lake. But the weather at this tirae was so boisterous, and there was so much rain, snow, and frost, alternately, that they were obliged to wait several days before they could cross it in their canoes. At the end of about three days after Iheii; arrival on the opposite side, they came to a few scrubby woods, which were nearly the first tbey faad seen since the 25th of May. In tfae beginning of October there was a heavy fall of snow ; . and the wind was so boisterous, that, one night, after the tents were pitched, several of them were blown down. Tfae poles of Mr. Hearne's tent striking against the case of fais quadrant, broke tfaat instrument in several places, and thus rendered it useless. During tfae remainder of this month the party were em ployed in getting ready their clothing, snow-shoes, and sledges, for the winter ; aiid on the 1st of November they again set out. This day they walked five or six miles in a southerly direction : a few days afterwards they crossed, ontfae ice, a large lake, which, not being distinguished by any particular name, Mr. Hearne caUed No Name Lake, They subsequently crossed two other lakes, and then came to a small river, along the ice of which they walked near eighty miles. This river TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 243 emptied itself into a lake of great extent, called Atha puscow Lake, Through .faoles in the ice the Indians caugfat, with their nets, so enormous a quantity of fish, that tfae roes alone were as much as all the women could drag after them. These roes, and many of. the fish, they dried for their future subsistence. In tbeir progress along tbe river they saw several habitations of beavers ; but they were not able to kill raany of the animals. Midwinter was now at hand. They were about the sixty-fourth degree of north latitude ; consequently the days were so short, that the sun took a circuit of only a few points of the compass above the horizon, and, in its greatest altitude, did not rise balf way above the trees. Tfae brilliancy, however, of the Aurora Borealis> • or northern lights, and of tfae stars, even without the assistance of tfae moon, was sucfa that Mr. Hearne was frequently able to read very smaU print iu tbe middle of tfae night. Mr. Hearne remarks, concerning tfae nortfaern ligfats, tfaat, in varying tlieir position and colours, fae has frequently heard them make a rustling and crackling noise not unlike that produced from the waving ofa large flag in a fresh gale of wind. On the 24th of December the party arrived at the north side of the Athapuscow Lake, ' Here they spent some days in hunting deer and beavers. The habita tions of the latter were so nuraerou.s, that several scores of the animals were killed. Their flesh furnished a de licious food ; and" their skins proved a valuable acqui sition, both for clothing and for traffic. After this the travellers proceeded to cross the lake, which was more than three hundred miles in length from east to west, and near sixty miles in width from nortfa to south. It was full of islands, most of which were clothed with poplars, birch, and pines, and were well stocked with deer. On some of them beavers also were found. When the travellers arrived on the south side of the lake, they were agreeably surprised to find a fine and M 2 244 hearne's THIRD JOURNEY level country, in which buffalos, beavers, and numerous other quadrupeds, were very plentiful. Matonabbee proposed, that they should direct their course towards - the south-west quarter, in hope of meeting some of the Athapuscow Indians. On the lltfa of January, as a detachment of Mr. Hearne's Indians were hunting, they observed the track of a strange snow-shoe. This they followed, and at some distance came to a little hut, where they disco* vered a young woman sitting alone. As they found that she understood their language, they brought her witfa them to the tents. On examination, she proved to have belonged to a tribe called the Western Dog-ribbed In dians ; and to have been taken prisoner by the Atha puscow Indians, in the summer of 1770. In the foHbw- ing summer, when the Indians, by whom she had been taken, were near this part of the country, she had eloped from them, in a hope that she might be able to return to her own people. But the distance being very great, and, having been conveyed away in a canoe, the turnings and windings of the rivers and lakes were" so numerous, that she had forgotten the track. She therefore built the hut in whicfa sfae was found, to protect her from the weather during the winter ; and here she bad resided ever since. From her account of tfae moons that had past since her elopement, it appeared that she faad been seven montfas without seeing a human face. During all this time she had supported herself by snaring partridges, rabbits, and squirrels. She had also killed two or three beavers, and some porcupines; and did not seem to have been in want, for she had by her a small stock of provisions when she was discovered, and was in perfect health. Mr. Hearne says, he thought her one of the finest Indian women he had seen in any part of North America. The methods tfaat were practised by this interesting female to procure a livelihood were truly admirable. When the few deer-sinews which she had had an oppor- TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 245 tunity of taking with her from the Athapuscow Indians were all expended, in making snares and sewing her clothing, she had notfaing to supply tfaeir place but the sinews of the legs of rabbits. These she twisted together for that purpose with great dexterity and success. The rabbits and other animals, whicfa she caught in tfaese snares, not only furnished her witfa a comfortable subsistence, but, of the skins, she faad made a suit of neat and- warm clothing for the winter. It is scarcely possible to imagine that any person in her forlorn condition could have been so composed as to be capable of contriving or executing any thing that was not absolutely necessary for existence. But tfaere were sufficient proofs that she faad extended faer care mucfa further, as all her clothing, besides being calcu lated for service, showed great taste, and exhibited no •little variety of ornament. The raaterials, though'rude, were curiously wrought, and so judiciously arranged, as to make the whole garb have a very pleasing, though somewhat romantic appearance. Her leisure hours from bunting had been employed in twisting the inner bark of willows into small lines, like net twine, of which she faad some faundred fatfaoms by faer. Witfa this it was her intention to make a fish ing-net as soon as the spring advanced. Five or six inches of an iron hoop, beaten into a knife, and the shank of an iron arrow-head, which served her as an awl, were all tfae metals wfaich she had with her when sfae eloped ; and, witfa tfaese imperfect implements, she faad made faerself complete snow-shoes; and several other useful articles. Her method of making a fire was equally singular and curious. For this she had no other raaterials than two hard sulphureous- stones. These, by long friction and hard knocking, produced a few sparks ; but, as this was attended with great trouble, she had not, for many months, suffered faer fire to go out. Tfae singularity of the circumstance, the comeliness of her person, and faer approved accomplishments, oc- 246 hearne's THIRD JOURNEY casioned a strong contest, between several of the Indians of Mr. Hearne's party, who should have her for a wife. According to tfae custom of the Indians, they wrestled for faer, the most powerful wrestler laying claim to her as his right ; and the poor woman was actuaUy won and lost at wrestling by nearly balf a score different men the sarae evening. On the 16th of January, 1772, as tfae party were con tinuing their course in the south-west quarter, they arrived at the great Athapuscow River. It was here about two miles wide, and emptied itself into the lake which they had lately crossed. The woods about this riyer, particularly the pines and poplars, were the tall est and stoutest that Mr. Hearne had seen in any part of North America. The traveUers continued tiieir course up this river for many days ; and, though they passed several parts whicfa tfaey well knew to have been the former winter fa.aunts of tfae Atfaapuscow Indians, yet tfaey could not discover the least trace of any of those Indians having been there that season. Tfaey, tfaerefore, now resolved to strike off to the eastward, with tfae intention, if possible, of reaching Prince of Wales's Fort a little before the usual time of tfae sfaips arriving from England. Game of all kinds was very plentiful ; but the -woods, through which tbey now faad to pass, were in many places so itfaick, that it was necessary to cut a path,, before -the women could penetrate them with the sledges. Towards the end of February many days were spent in hunting, feasting, and drying flesh to carry with them; as the travellers were now approaching the barren country, where tbey would have few opportunities of obtaining food. In the ensuing month they were joined by a company of strange Indians, who were also pro- ceeding-towards Prince of Wales's Fort, whitfaer tfaey were carrying a few furs for sale ; so tfaat tfaey had now twenty tents, and the party consisted in tiie whole of about two hundred persons. From the circumstances of the quadrant having been TOWARDS THE NORTHERN OCEAN. 247 broken, and Mr. Hearne's watch having stopped while fae was at the Atfaapuscow Lake, fae faad been deprived of the means of correctly ascertaining tfae course of his travels, and estimating tfae distances that he walked. From this time to the conclusion of his journey no occurrence of importance took place. He again ar rived at the Snoio-bird Lake on the 25th of May ; sub sequently crossed the Partridge Lake, Island Lake, and some others-; and reached Prince of Wales's Fort once more on the 30th of June ¦; faaving been absent, on this expedition, eighteen months and twenty-three days. I hope, Edmund, you are convinced, notwitfastand- ing tfae necessary conciseness of my narrative, that a journey even through the wilds of. America is capable of yielding both amusement and instruction. I assure you, tfaat Mr. Hearne's book is, in many respects, an entertaining one. Mr, Allen. The account that he has given of the modes. of life, manners, and customs of tfae Indians, of which Frederic has only read a very brief abstract, is exceedingly curious. It contains, in plain and un adorned language, so strong a picture of the miseries of savage litie, accompanied with so many minute in cidents, copied faithfully from nature, tfaat it is impos sible to read it without feeling a deep interest, and without reflecting on, and cherishing the inestimable blessings of civilized society; Louisa. I never before heard of any cruelty so horrid as that of the Indians who accompanied Mr; Hearne-. Sir Charles. Many of the American Indians are ac customed to cruelty even from their childhood- Before they faave attained strength enough to partake in it themselves, they often witness the most savage species of warfare imaginable. Tfaey attain distinction oy tfaeir prowess in attacking their enemies ; their skill and per severance in torturing them ; and tfae number of scalps which "they can bring off in triumph. Even Maton- 248 TRAVELLERS. ' abbee, one of the best and most enlightened among them, and who had spent much of fais time among Eu ropeans, was unable to restrain those passions, and to overcome those propensities wfaicfa he faad imbibed in early youth. Frederic. The American Indians are, in general, mo rose and covetous ; and Mr. Hearne says, that they are utterly unacquainted with any principle of gratitude. Louisa. They seem to be divided into small commu nities. Mr. Allen. Yes ; each of which constitutes a tribe distinct from the others. This is the natural and un avoidable result of their mode of life ; for men who de rive tbeir subsistence from the spontaneous productions of tfae €arth, or from tfae precarious resources of hunt ing or fishing, are prevented from associating in any, considerable numbers. Louisa. Have tfae American Indians any ideas re specting a future state ? Mr. Allen. Tfae accounts tfaat faave been given by traveUers on this subject are very contradictory. There, however, seems no doubt, that, although they may not have any distinct conception of an existence wholly spiritual beyond the grave ; yet tfaat tfaere is an exist ence after deatfa, is an opinion entertained from one extremity of America to the otfaer. Tfaeir ideas, with regard to man in a future state, . are taken from wfaat constitutes his chief happiness in this. "They believe tfaat, after deatfa, tfaey shall exist in a country where the sun sfaincs witfa unclouded ligfat; where no whirl wind tears up the trees by the roots ; where the rivers are stored witfa fish, and the forests are stocked with game ; where hunger is unknown, and plenty continues throughout the year without effort and witfaout care. "Tfais country they beUeve will be inhabited and enjoyed by all tfae brave men and women who have killed and eaten many of their enemies. Hence we see how very indefinite are tfaeir notions of right and wrong. HEARNE. 249 Louisa. What are the species of beings which they profess to worship ? Mr. Allen. Many of them worship an imaginary being, w hom they call the Great Spirit ; but to Ihe word spirit they attach no idea which would lead us to believe that they have any conception of a God who is divested of corporeal organs. "They have no temples, no ministers of religion, and no established forms of public worship. And their mythology is so wild, inco herent and absurd, that it would be an useless occupa tion of our tirae to discuss it. Edmund. The travels of Mr. Hearne appear to be entertaining as a book of adventure. Frederic. He speaks with great diffidence respecting tfaera. He says, that although he did not imagine his discoveries were Ukely to prove of any material advan tage to the English nation, nor indeed to the Hudson's Bay Company ; yet it was gratifying to him ta think that he had fully complied with the orders of his em ployers ; and that the discovery he had made had put an end to all disputes respecting a north-west pas sage through Hudson's Bay. Louisa. What is the title of his book ? Frederic. " A Jouiney frora Prince of Wales's Fort, in Hudson's Bay, to the Northern Ocean, undertaken by order of the Hudson's Bay Company, for the Dis covery of Copper Mines, a North-west Passage, &c. in 1769, 1770, 1771, and 1772." Mr. Allen. He was rewarded for his Services ,by being appointed governor of Prince of Wales's Fort. Frederic. Tliis appointment took place in the year 1775. Seven years afterwards the French unexpectedly landed there, took -possession of the fort, and,- after having permitted Mr. Hearne to secure his own pro perty, they plundered and blew it up. Louisa. And what became of- Mr. Hearne aftrtwards? Frederic. He returned to England : but, at tfae re quest of the Hudson's Bay Company, he went out in the ensuing year, and superintended the rebuilding of M 3 250 TRAVELLERS. the fort in a much stronger manner than before. Hav ing reaUzed a few thousand pounds, the fruits of many years industry, fae now determined to retire from public business. He accordingly once again came to England. Mr. Allen. And, with common prudence, he migfat faave passed the remainder of fais years in case and affluence. Frederic. But he had lived so long in a country where money was of little use, that he seemed insensible of its value here, and lent considerable sums without pro per security to persons witfa whom he was scarcely ac quainted even by name. He was sjncere and undesign- ing fairaself, and by no raeans a match for the duplicity of others. The result may easily be imagined : he was defrauded of a great portion of his property. Mr. Allen. The- disposition of Mr. Hearne was hu mane and benevolent ; and wfaat he wanted in learning and polite accomplishments, he made up in simpUcity and integrity. A few days before his death fae was heard to declare, tfaat " fae could lay fais hand upon fais heart and say, fae had never designedly wronged any man of sixpence." Such are the outlines of his cha racter; and if he faad some failings, fae faad many virtues to counterbalance them. Frederic. Mr. Hearne died of tbe dropsy, in the month of November, 1792, and in the forty-eighth year of his age. FIFTEENTH EVENING. Edmund faaving remarked that his sister had derived great pleasure from preparing a narrative of Maundrell's travels in the Holy Land, fae soon afterwards suggested to her another similar undertaking : to prepare a narrative of Dr. John Moore's travels in France, Switzerland, Germany, and Italy. She thanked him for tfais kind MOORE. 251 suggestion ; and said sfae "wottld immediately commence the task. These travels she faad read with peculiar satisfaction; sfae faad been delighted with the many interesting details whicfa they contained relative to tfae arts, commerce, government, habits, aud customs, of the different countries which Dr. Moore had visited. After a little c^sideration, however, it occurred to her tfaat it was possible she migfat have some difficulty in selecting such parts only as were connected with tfae personal adventures of this traveller; because the pro duction which she should have to compress into the form ofa narrative, was in sorae degree a work of senti ment : it was entitled " A View of Society and Man ners" in the countries alluded to; but this, sfae said, sfaould not deter her from making the attempt ; and she would endeavour to compress into her account as much information as possible. 'Some days elapsed before she was prepared. In the mean time her brother and Frederic perused the same travels, and sought, in the Gentleman's Magazine, the Biographical Dictionary, and other publications, for such memoirs of the author as were there to be found ; and this evening all were in readiness) When the party was assembled, Lady Irwin asked whetfaer tfais Dr. Moore had not been the father of tbe late accomplished General Moore, wfao was slain by the French at the battle of Coruuna, in Spain. Frederic answered in the affirmative. Lady Irwin then inquired respecting the parents of Dr. Moore. Frederic replied, that he was the son of the Rev. Cfaarles Moore, a minister of the English churcfa at Stirling, in Scotiand ; and that fae faad been born at tfaat town in the year 1730. Edmund. His fatfaer died before this son was five years old, Louisa. After which fais mother went to reside at Glasgow; and sfae carefully and assiduously superin tended his early education. As soon as he was of suffi- cienfrage to be removed from school, she placed faim witfa a Mr. Gordon, a surgeon-apothecary in Glasgow,; 252^ TRAVELLERS. and he subsequently attended tfae anatomical and me dical lectures in that university. Frederic. Mr. Moore's application to fais studies must have been more than ordinarily successful; for he had not completed fais seventeentfa year before he went to the continent, under the protection of tfae duke- of Argyle ; and was employed as a mate ifi one of the military hospit-als at Maistricfat, and afterwards at Flush ing. From the latter situation he was promoted to fae an assistant-surgeon of the Coldstream regiment of foot guards, commanded by General Braddock. He re mained with this regiment at Breda during the winter of 1748 ; and then came with it to England. Mr. Allen. It would seem that be did not long after wards continue in the army ; for it is stated, that, in London, fae resumed fais-raedical studies, under Dr. Hunter, and tfaen set out for Paris. Edmund. His journey to France proved of great importance to faim ; for fae tfaere ob.tainedthe patronage of the earl of Albemarle, wfaom fae had known in Flanders, and wfao was now tfae English ambassador at the court of France. This nobleman appointed Mr. Moore the surgeon to bis household. Louisa. And in this situation he was still assiduous in his studies. For althougfa fae might have resided in tfae house of the ambassador, he chose rather to lodge near the hospitals, and otfaer sources of instruction, with which a more distant part of tfae Frencfa capital abound-. ed ; and be visited Lord Albemarle's family only when; his professional assistance was required. Lady Irwin. How long did Mr, Moore continue in Paris ? Edmund. About two years. Lady Irwin. And what was his engagement after wards ? Edmund. His late master, Mr. Gordon, not ignorant of fais assiduity and improvements, invited him to re turn to Glasgow, for the purpose of entering into part nership with faim. Mr. Moore, by the advice of his MOORE. 253 friends, accepted the invitation ; but, anxiously atten tive to his professional studies, he would not pass through London, ou his journey to the north, without waiting there some time for the purpose of inspecting' the hospitals of the metropolis, and attending sorae courses of lectures there. On his return to Glasgow fae practised for two years as a surgeon-apothecary, in con junction witfa Mr. Gordon. At the end of this time the partnership was dissolved : Mr. Gordon obtained a diploraa to practise as a physician, and Mr. Moore still continued tfae business. Fredei-ic. Yes, till fae was near forty years of age, when an incident occurred which gave a new turn to his ideas, and opened new pursuits and situations to a mind naturally active and inquisitive. Lady Irwin. You allude, I presume, to the appoint ment whicfa lie obtained in the family of the duke of Hamilton. Frederic. I do. James George, then duke of Ha mUton, was affected with a consumptive disorder. In 1769, Mr. Moo'e attended hira ; but the msdady of tfae duke baffled all tfae efforts of medicine ; and this young nobleman, after a lingering illness, expired in the fif teenth year of his age. This event led to a more inti mate connection betwixt Mr. Moore and the family than had previously taken place. The late duke of Hamilton being, like his brother, of a sickly constitu tion, fais motfaer, the duche.ss of Argyle, determined that he should travel in company with sorae gentleman, who, to a knowledge of medicine, added an "acquaintance witfa the continent. Louisa. And both these qualities were united in Mr. Moore; who, giving up his professional practice at Gla^ow, now obtained a diploma of Doctor of Physic. The duke and he, accompanied by a few servants, set out together, and spent no fewer than five years^abroad. They first went to Paris. 254 MOORE S Narrative of Dr. Moore's Travels in France, Swit^ zerland, and Germany. After a residence of some tirae in Paris, the duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore proceeded on their tour to wards the south of France. Passing through Dijon, Chalons, Ma^^n, and a country delightful to behold, but tedious to describe, they arrived on the fourth day at Lyons. After Paris, Lyons (says Dr. Moore) is the most mag nificent town in France, enlivened by industry, enriched by comraerce, beautified by wealth, and by its situation ; in the midst of a fertile country, and at the confluence of the rivers SaoneaDd Rhone. The travellers continued a few days at Lyons, after whicfa tfaey proceeded to Geneva, where they remained three weeks without having the smallest inclination to change the scene. Indeed, they knew no place ou the continent to whicfa they could go witfa any probability of benefitting by the change. The opportunities of improv^ent here were numerous, the amusements few in number, and ofa moderate kind. The hours glided smoothly along ; and, ' though they were not always quickened by pleasure, they were unretarded by lan guor, and unruffled by remorse. The situation of Geneva was extremely fine. The Rhone, rushing out of the noblest lake in Europe, flowed through the middle of tKe city, which w as en circled by fertile fields, cultivated by the industry, and adorned by the riches and taste of the inhabitants. The long ridge of mountains called Mount Jura on the one side, with the Alps, the Glaciers of Savoy, and the snowy head of Mont Blanc on the other, served as boundaries to the most charmingly variegated landscape tfaat ever delighted tfae eye. Witfa these advantages in point of situation, the citizens of Geneva at this time enjoyed freedom untainted by licentiousness, and secu rity uhbought by the horrors of war. TRAVELS IN FRANCE. 2.'.5 Whilst resident at Geneva, the duke of Hamilton, Dr. Moore, and some other Englishmen, were induced to make an excursion to visit the Glaciers of Savoy, tbe Pays de Vallais, and other places among the Alps. With this design they left Geneva early in the morn ing of the 3d of August, and breakfasted at Bonne ville, a small town in the dutchy of Savoy, situated on the banks of the river Arre, and at the foot of a moun tain four thousand six hundred feet in perpendicular height. Frora Bonneville they proceeded to Cluse, by a road tolerably good, and highly entertaining, on ac count of the singularity and variety of landscapes that were seen from it. The mountains overlooked and pressed so closely upon this little town of Cluse, that, to a person standing in the principal street, each end of it seemed to be perfectly shut up. On leaving Cluse the country was extremely moun tainous and romantic. The travellers passed the night at a small town called Sallenche ; and as the remaining part of the journey did not admit of carriages, those whicfa had been brought were now sent back to Geneva. The drivers were directed to pass round by the other side of the lake, and to meet the travellers at the village of Martigny, in the Pay de Vallais. The travellers agreed with a muleteer of Sallenche for a certain number of mules to carry thera over the moun tains to Martigny. It was a good day's journey from Sal lenche to Chamouni, not on account of the distance, but from the difficulty and perplexity, the steep ascents and descents of the road. The sure footing of the mules was now of the utmost importance to thera ; and Dr. Moore says, that, on any dubious occasion, fae always found it safer to depend on tfae sagacity of his mule for a choice of road than on his own. It was entertaining, he observes, to notice the prudence of these animals, in making their way down dangerous rocks, Th*y would sometimes put their heads over the edgebf a precipice, and examine, with anxious circumspection, every pos sible way by wfaicfa they could descend ; and at length. 2.56 MOO re's were sure to fix on that which, upon the whole, was the best. Having observed this in several instances, Dr. Moore at length laid his bridle on the neck of his mule, and allowed him to take his own course, without pre suming to control him in the sm-allest degree. As they passed through a little village amongst the mountains, they saw many peasants going into a church. It was a saint's day; and, says Dr. iVloore, the poor people must have half ruined themselves by purchasing gold-leaf. Every thing was gilded. Ihe image of the Virgin was dressed in a new gown of gold paper; and the figure of the infant in her arms was equally briUiant, except the wig, which faad been powdered, and was milk white. About six in the evening they arrived at the Valley of Chamouni. This valley was about six leagues in length, and a mile broad. It was bounded on all sides by high mountains, part of which were those vast bodies of snow and ice, called Glaciers. The travellers found lodging in the small village of Prieure; and early the next morning tliey began to ascend Montanvert, from the top of which there was an easy access to the glacier of that name, and to the valley of ice. Tfaey reached the summit of tlie moun tain in about four hours. The day was fine, and tfae objects around were noble and majestic. Behind Mon tanvert was a chain of mountains covered with snow. These terminated in four distinct rocks of great faeight, which faad the appearance of narrow p;- ramids or spires. Mont Blanc, from this situation, surrounded by other molintains, appeared like a giant among pigmies. Its summit was still as high above tfae travellers as they were from the valley whence they had begnn to ascend. They descended ou the other side ot Montauvert into a vale, whose appearance has been aptly compared to that-which a stormy sea would have, if it were sud denly arrested and fixed by a strong frost : it was called the Valley of Ice. A walk upon this apparently frozen sea was attended witii much inconvenience. In some travels in SWITZERLAND. 257 places the swellings, which faave been compared to waves, were forty or fifty feet faigfa ; in other places they were of very moderate size, and in sorae tfae sur face was quite level. In tfae ice were numerous rents, frora two to six feet wide, and of amazing deptfa ; some of tfaem being supposed to reach from the surface of the snow to the bottom of tbe valley, through a body of ice many hundred fathoms thick. When the curiosity of the traveUers was sufficiently gratified, tfaey returned to tfaeir cottage, at Prieur6, by a shorter and steeper path than that along whicfa they faad ascended. The descent occupied about two hours. There are five or six different glaciers, all of whicfa terminate on one side of tfae valley of Chamouni, and within the space of about five leagues. These are pro digious collections of show and ice, formed in the in tervals or hollows between the mountains. Tfaey ter minate in various fantastic forms, which, by the reflection of the rays of the sun upon them, and tfae faelp of a little imagination, faave the appearance of columns, arches, and turrets of ice. A fabric of ice of this de scription, two thousand feet high, and three times as broad, may well be imagined a very singular piece of architecture. On tlie raorning of the- 6tfa of August the travellers bade adieu to Prieuri; and, faaving ascended the mountains that shut up the valley of Chamouni, at the end opposite to that by which they had entered, they gradually descended, after various windings, and on a very rugged road, into a hollow of the most dismal ap pearance. It was surrounded by high, naked, and rugged rocks, without trees or verdure of any descrip- tioa This dreary vale was of considerable length, but very narrow. After they had traversed it, they conti nued tfaeir journey, sometimes ascending'the mountains, and sometimes descending, and proceeding along tfae vallies. At lengtfa tfaey came to a pass, wfaicfa separated the country of tfae king of Sardinia from tfae Uttle re public, called the Pays de Vallais; and across it was 2.58 moore's an old and broad wall, and a gat6, but without any guard, Tfais narrow pass continued for several miles. Afterwards tfae road extended along tfae side of a high and steep mountain, from whicfa tfae travellers could faave spoken to people wlio inhabited the mountain op posite ; though it might have taken three or four hours walking to faave gone to tfaem. For several miles be yond this they traversed an highly beautiful and ro mantic country ; and in tfae evening tfaey arrived at the Lowfr Vallais, and the village of Martigny. On the ensuing morning they entered their carriages, and, having crossed the Rhone, in the viUage of St. Maurice, proceeded to Bex, a little town remarkable for its delightful situation, and for the salt-works which are near iti After dinner they visited the salt-works. Tfaey entered the largest miue by a passage cut out of the soUd rock, and of sufficient heigfat and breadtfa to allow a man to walk with ease. Before tfaey entered tfaey were furnished witfa lighted torches, and were each dressed in a coarse habit to defend them from tfae sliray drippings which fell from the roof and sides of the passage. On arriving at the reservoir of salt water, about three quarters of a mile from the entrance. Dr. Moore was seized with a nausea (occasioned by tfae disagreeable smell of the place), and he returned, with aU possible eitpedition, to the open air, leaving fais companions be hind. Tbey remained a considerable tirae afterward ; and, fae says, tfaat when tfaey came out, he never saw a set of people make a more melancfaoly exit; with their greasy frocks, their torches, and their smoky and woe begone countenances, tfaey puHiim in mind of a proces sion of conderaned faeretics, walking to tlie flames at an Auto de Ffe, at Lisbon. As soon, however, as they faad recovered tfaeir looks and spirits, they assured him tfaat the curiosities they had seen, during their subterraneous progress, were more worthy of observation than any thing they had witnessed since they left Geneva. Next morning the company diy^ded, tiie duke of TEAVELS IN SWITZERLAND. 259 Hamilton and one gentleman choosing to return by Vevay and Lausanne; and Dr. Moore and two others, mounting on horseback on account of the road not ad mitting of wheel carriages, went on the opposite side of the lake of Geneva. They crossed the Rhone m boats, at a ferry a little beyond Aigle ; and bad a deUghtful ride to St. Gingo, where tfaey dined, and remained several faours to refresh their horses. Thougfa it was Sunday, there was a fair in the village, to wfaicfa sucfa a concourse of people faad resorted from the adjacent country, that the travellers could not, without difficulty, find a room to dine in. A littie beyond St. Gingo they entered the dukedom of Savoy. The road was here cut out of the lofty rocks which rose from the lake of Geneva. It was requisite to pass it witfa caution, for it was exceedingly narrow-; and, in case tfaeir faorses started, tfaere was no fence to prevent tfaem from falling over a high precipice into the lake. They proceeded to Tonon, a city peculiarly abundant in churches and monasteries. It contained six or seven thousand infaabitants; and almost every seventh person they saw wore the garb of some religious order. When they had bespoken ^ tfaeir supper and beds tfaey visited the Carthusian convent of Ripaille, at a little distance. It was bere that a duke of Savoy, after a prosperous reign, assumed the character of a hermit, and lived witfa the fathers a life of piety and mortifi cation, according to some writers ; aud of voluptuous ness and policy, according to others. Shortiy after wards fae was elected pope ; but, having subsequently been compelled to relinquish this dignity, he retired to pass the remainder of his life at Ripaille. Had fae been allowed to cfaoose any part of Europe for fais re treat, he could not faave found one more agreeajple tfaan tfais whicfa his own dominions furnished. Tfae fatfaers, with great politeness, showed the travellers their forest, their gardens, their apartments, and an elegant new chapel, which faad just been finished. They then con- 260 MOORE S ducted tfaem into the chamber where tfae sovereign had lived and died. After this the travellers returned to their inn. They slept there ; and in the forenoon of the ensuing day arrived at Geneva, having finished a tour in whicfa a greater variety o.f sublime and interesting objects were to be found than probably in any other part of the globe of the same extent. The duke of Hamilton having had a desire- to visit some of the German courts, he and Dr. Moore bade adieu to their friends at Geneva, and went to Lausanne. The road to this town extended along tfae side of the lake, through a delightful country, abounding in vine yards. AU the little towns througfa wfaicfa tfaey passed were finely situated, neatly built, and inhabited by a thriving and contented people. Lausanne is the capital of tfais charming couiftry : it is near the lake, and at the distance of about tbirty miles from Geneva. As tbe nobility from Ifae country, and from sorae parts of Swit- izerland, and the families of raany military officers, re sided here, tfaere was an air of more ease and gaiety (perfaaps also of more politeness) tfaan in Geneva. Dr. Moore made an excursion from Lausanne to Vevay. Tfae road was raountainous ; but tbe mountains were cultivated to their s'ummits, and covered with vines. Vevay wasa pretty little town, beautifully situ ated on a plain, near the head of the lake of Geneva. The mountains behind the town, thougfa exceedingly faigh, were entirely cultivated, like those along the road from Lausanne. It was impossible to travel by post through Switzer land; the duke of Hamilton, therefore,' had hired horses at Genoa, to carry himself and his suite to Basle, whence it was his intention to proceed to Strasbourg. But as it was his grace's wish to continue a few days longer at Lausanne, Dr. Moore proceeded to Strasbourg witfaout faim, intending to wait for him there. He went by Payerne and Avanche to Murat, a 'neat little town, situated upon a rising ground, on the side TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND. 261 of tfae lake of the same name. The borders of the lake were enriched with gentlemen's houses, and with vil lages in great abundance. Dr. Moore dined at-Murat. There was a fair, and a great concourse of people. He describes the Swiss peasants which he s-aw here as the tallest and most robust that he had ever seen. Their dress, he says, was very particular. They had little round hats. Their co'ats and waistcoats were made of a thick black cloth ; and their breeches were of coarse linen, some what like sailors trowseis, but drawn together in plaits below the knees ; the stockings were of stuff' similar to the breeches. The women wore short jackets, wJith a great superfluity of buttons. The unmarried women valued themselves on the length of their hair, which they separated into two divisions, and allowed to hang at full length, braided with ribbons. After marriage, however, these tresses were no longer permitted to hang down ; but were twisted round the head in spiral lines, and fixed at the crown with large silver pins. Both married and unmarried women had straw hats, orna mented with black ribands ; and all the females wore a preposterous load of petticoats. On tfae same day that Dr. Moore left Murat he ar rived at Berne, a regular and well-built town, which had some air of magnificence. The houses were constructed ofa white free-stone, and tolerably uniforra, particularly in the principal street. There were piazzas on each side, and a walk for foot passengers raised about four feet above the level of the street. A small branch of the river Aar had -been turned into this street, and, being confined to a narrow channel in the middle, ran with great rapidity ; aud, without being a disagreeable object of itself, was of great service in keeping the street clean. 4 Another circumstance which contributed to render Berne a cleanly town was, that criminals were conti nually employed in removing rubbish and filth frora the streets and public walks. The more atrocious delin- 262 MOORES quents were chained to waggons, wfaUe tfaose con demned for smaller crimes were employed in sweeping tfae light rubbish into the rivulet, and throwing the heavier into the carts or wacgons, which their raore crirainal corapanions vvere obliged to push or drag along. These wretched beings had collars of iron fixed round their necks, with a projecting handle to each, in the forra of a hook, by which, on the slightest offence or mutiny, they could be seized at the com mand of the guard, whose duty it was to see them per form their work. People of both sexes were condemned to this labour for months, for years, or for life, accord ing to the nature of their crimes. The public buildings at Berne, the hospital, the granary, the guard-bouse, the arsenal, and Ihe churches, were magnificent. Au elegant edifice had lately been constructed with accommodations for many public amusements, such as balls, concerts, and theatrical ex hibitions. There was, on a high bank by tfae side of tfae river, a public walk, the most magnificent that Dr. Moore bad ever beheld. From it was a commanding 'View of the river, of Ihe town of Berne, the country around it, and the glaciers. Dr. Moore proceeded from Berne to Soleure, an agreeable little town, situated on the river .Aar. The houses were neatly built; and one of tbe churches was considered the most magnificent modern edifice in Switzerland. The country between Soleure and Basil, or 'Basle, was hilly, and peculiarly beautiful. It was now tbe gay season of tbe vintage. The mountains and vallies were crowded with peasantry of both sexes, and of every age : and all were employed iu gathering and carrying home the grapes. In every country this is a season of joy and festivity ; and it approaches nearest to the ex aggerated description which the ancient poets have given of rural happiness. At Basil Dr. Moore went to an inn called the Three Kings, which, in point of situation, was the most agree- TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 263 able that can weU be imagined. The Rhone washed its walls ; and the windows of a large dining-room com manded a prospect across that noble river to the fertile plains on the opposite side. Though the largest town in Switzerland, it was not so populous for its size aS Geneva. The inhabitants seeraed unusually afraid of thieves, for most of their windows were guarded by iron bars or grates, Hke tfaose of convents or prisons. At the lower end of raany of the windows was a kind of wooden box, projecting towards the street, with a round glass about half a foot in diameter. "This was for tfae convenience of the people in tfae rooms, who, without being seen, chose to sit at the windows and amuse themselves by looking at the passengers. A very remarkable custom prevailed at this place : to keep all the clocks one hour in advance. When, for instance, it was one o'clock in all the towns and villages around, it was two at Basil. This custom had existed for three Or four hundred years. In his journey from Basil to Strasbourg, Dr. Moore says, that the road lay througfa an extensive and well* cultivated plain. At Strasbourg he passed some days' very agreeably. The cathedral was a fine building. He had the curiosity to ascend the steeple ; one of the loftiest in Europe, its height being five hundred and seventy-four feet ; and he found that it commanded a beautiful and most extensive prospect. Among the curiosities of -this churcfa was a singular clock, with va rious movements ; and two large bells, one said lo be of brass, which weighed ten tons ; and the other of silver, which weighed more than two. The duke of Hamilton, whom Dr. Moore had left at Lausanne, now joined him ; and, setting out together, they crossed the Rhine into the territories of the Mar grave of Baden. They thence proceeded, by Carlstuhe, to Manheim, one of the raost beautiful cities of Ger- raany, situated in a flat country, on the eastern bank of the Rhine. The streets were all straight, and in tersected eacfa other at right angles; and the town 264 moore's had tfaree noble gates, each adorned witfa bas-reliefs, beautifully executed. The fortifications were well con trived and in good order ; and the ramparts formed a pleasant promenade. The palace was a most magnifi cent structure, and contained an extensive cabinet of natural curiosities, and a valuable collection of paintings. Dr. Moore accompanied the duke on a visit to dine with the elector, After dinner a kind of buffoon was permitted to come into the room. He walked round the table, and conversed, in a familiar manner, with every one, the princes not excepted. His observations were followed by loud bursts of applause frora all wbora be addressed. This, says Dr. Moore, was the only ex ample that-he knew remaining of a court fool or licensed jester, an office which formerly existed in aU the courts . of Europe. The doctor made an excursion to Heidelberg, a town situated about four leagues south-east of Manheim. He visited the elector's castle, wfaicfa was on an emi nence, and commanded the town and the valley below. While he was there he did not omit to see the renowned Heidelberg tun ; but, as it was empty, it made but a dull and uninteresting appearance. From Manheim the travellers went to Mentz, througfa a continued plain, and along good roads. By the great number of monks and friars, of all colours and condi tions, that were seen near this city. Dr. Moore was sufficiently apprized of their entrance into an ecclesi astical state. Mentz was finely situated, was built in an irregular rnanner, and had a great number of churches; of which, however, the cathedral was a gloomy fabric. The streets swarmed with ecclesiastics, some of wEom were in fine carriages, and were attended by a numer ous retinue of servants. Leavhig Manheim tfae travellers proceeded fo Franfort. The streets of Frankfort were spacious and well paved. The buildings were stately, clean, and conve nient; and the shops well furnished. The liouses were of brick, but were cfaiefly covered with a kind of red- TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 205 dish stucco ; and the fronts of many of thera were adorned with bas-reliefs of white stucco, in imitation of marble. All religions were tolerated here, under cer tain restrictions ; but Lutheranism was the established faith. It was expected that all strangers sfaould visit the town-house ; aud it would have been reckoned a great want of curiosity not to faave seen tfae famous golden bull which was kept tfaere. A sigfat of tfais cost a golden ducat ; a great price for a glance at an o^d manuscript wfaich not even oue person in an hundred could read. A singular custom was observed at Frankfort, the origin of which Dr. Moore in vain endeavoured to learn. Two women appeared every day at noon on the battlements of tbe pritacipal steeple, and played some solemn airs witfa trumpets. Tfais music was accompanied by vocal psalmody, performed by four or five men, wfao always attended the female trumpeters for that purpose. The people faere were so partial to psalm singing, that a considerable number of men and boys faad this for their only profession. They were engaged by sorae families to officiate two or tfaree times a week in tlie morning before tfae master and mistress got out of bed. Wfaen any person in tolerable circumstances died, it was customary for a band of these psalm-singers to assemble before the house,, and cliaht for an hour every day, till the body was interred. The same band accompanied the funeral, singing hymns all tfae way to the church. Funerals were conducted in this town with an unusual degree of solemnity. Whatever were the religious tenets of the person to be buried, a man, clad in a black cloak, and carrying a crucifix at the end ofa long pole, led the procession. A great number of faired mourners in the same dress, each with a lemon in his hand, marched after him : tfaen came the singers ; next followed the hearse ; and lastly the relations in mourning coaches. A great number of Jews resided in Frankfort; but Trav. n 266 MOORE S they were subjected to a very extraordinary restriction. They were all obliged to live in one street, built up at one end, and closed at tfae otfaer by a large gate, which gate was regularly shut at a certain faour every iiigfat. After this no Jew dared to appear in the streets till morning. During the day-time, however, they were al lowed tfae privilege of walking wfaerever they pleased. Among tfae remarkable tfaings in Frankfort, Dr. Moore particularizes tfae inns. Two of them, for cleanliness, conveniency, and number of apartments, were superior to any that he had seen on tfae continent, and were equal even to the most magnificent inns in England. At tfaese, as at most other inns in Germany, France, and Switzerland, there was an ordinary, at which strangers could dine and sup. Tfais was called tfae Table d'H6te, from the innkeeper's sitting at the bottom of the table and carving tbe provisions. When the travellers left Frankfort the ground was covered with snow; and, as the roads were bad, and the posts long, they were obUged to take six horses for eacfa cfaaise, wfaicfa, after all, went excessively slow. In due tirae tfaey reaofaed Cassel. They were introduced to tbe landgrave of Hesse Cassel, and frequently dined and supped at tbe palace. During the carnival at Cassel tfaere were two or tfaree masquerades. On tfaese occasions tbe court assembled about six in tbe evening, tbe men wearing dominos (a loose kind of habit adopted at masquerades), and tbe ladies their usual dress, with tfae addition perfaaps of a few fanciful ornaments. They amused themselves with cards and conversation tiU the hour of supper. During this interval, a gentleman of tbe court carried in fais hat a parcel of tickets, equal to the number of men iu company. Tfaese were presented to tfae ladies, each of whom drew one. Tickets, iu the sarae manner, were presented to the men. After the card-playing was finished, the officer called "number one;" on which the couple who possessed that number came forward, and tfae gentieman led tfae lady into tfae supper-room, TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 267 sat by her, and was her partner for the rest of the even ing. In a similar manner every other number was called. After supper all tbe company put on their tnasks. Tfae landgrave was then led into the masque rade-room ; and the rest foUowed, each lady being faanded in by lier partner. Tfae double file reached from the top to the bottom of the hall ; and the super numeraries retired to the sides. From this arrange ment a country-dance might .faave been expected ; but that did not take place. The music began, and all tfae maskers, consisting of twenty. or thirty couple, walked a minuet together. As soon as this somewhat confused affair was over, every one sat>down, except tfae land gravine, wfao danced nine or ten minuets successively, with as many different gentlemen. She tfaen took faer seat, till tfae rest of tfae company had danced minuets. When these were over, the cotillons and country-dances began ; and they continued till four or five o'clock in tfae morning. .Besides the company who supped, the rooms were crowded with persons in masks from tfae town, some of whom were in fancy-dresses, and kept themselves concealed all' the tirae. The couutry around Cassel was in general hilly, with mucfa wood ; but interspersed with fertile vallies and cornfields. The inhabitants were Protestants. The city of Cassel was situated on tfae river Fulda, and, at tfais time, consisted of an old and a new town. "The former was irregular : the latter was well-built, and the streets were beautiful. The. landgrave had here a palace, which was his winter residence: immediately at the exterior of tfae town fae faad anolher, in whicfa fae dwelt during most part of Ihe summer. Around this were some noble parks and gardens, witfa a very complete orangery. There was adso a menagerie, with a considerable collection of curious animals. Cassel was once fortified ; but the ibrtifi«itions had for several years been dismantled. In the academy of arts, whicfa was situated in tfae new town, were some valuable antiques and other curiosities. N 2 268 moore's Dr. Moore says, that nothing in tfae country of Hesse is more wdrtfay of the admiration of travellers than a gothic temple and cascade at Wasenstein. Tfaere was originally at this place an old building, which was used by Ihe landgraves of Hesse as a kind of hunting-seat. It was situated near the bottom of a high mountain, and had been enlarged and improved at different times. Upon the face of" the mountain, opposite to the house, a series of artificial cataracts, cascades, and various kinds of waterworks, faad been formed in tfae noblest style imaginable. The principal cascades were on each side of a flight of stairs, consisting of eight faun dred stone steps, wfaicfa led from tfae bottom to tfae summit of tfae mountain ; and, when tfae works were allowed to play, tfae water, flowing over tfaem, formed two continued cfaains of smaller cascades. From the^ summit of this mountain the water rushed in various sfaapesi: sometiraes in detached cascades, sometimes in large sheets like broad crystalline mirrors ; and at one place it was broken by a rock consisting of huge stones, artificially placed for that purpose. There were also fountains, which ejected the water to a considerable height. On tfae .faigfaest part of tfae mountain was a gotfaic temple; and at the top of that an obelisk, crowned by a statue of Hercules leaning on his club. This figure was of copper, and of such enormous height, tfaat tfaere was a staircase witfain the club, by which any one could ascend and view tfae surrounding country from a window at the top. Wasenstein was, upon tfae wfaole, tfae noblest work of tfae kind that Dr. Moore faad ever seen; and he was assured tfaat there was notfaing equal to it in Europe. From Cassel the travellers proceeded to Gottingen, a neat and well-built town, situated in a beautiful coun try. - There was at this place an university, founded by King George the Second. After a short stay at Gottin gen tfaey went to Brunswick. Here tfae duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore were in vited to accept of apartments witfain the palace, but TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 269 the duke thought proper to decline them. They re sided at private lodgings, but frequently dined and passed tbe evenings at court. The family of Brunswick Wolfenbuttle was peculiarly interesting to natives of tfae British islands, from tfae circumstance ofa branqh of it being the reigning family in Great Britain. Brunswick was a fortified place, situated in a plain, on the banks of the river Ocker. The houses in general were old, but many buildings had lately been erected, and the city was acquiring fresh beauty every day. There was an academy, to which students resorted from many parts of Germany ; and young gentlemen from Great Britain were frequently sent to be 'educated here. The country arouud Brunswick was agreeable. Dr. Moore remarked near this town some gentlemen's seats, a sigfat very rare in Germany, wfaere, if a person avoids towns and courts, he may travel over a great extent of country witfaout seeing faouses belonging to any order of men between tfae prince and tlie peasant. Tfae travellers next passed through Zell to Hanover, a neat, thriving, and agreeable city, which faad much tfae air of an English town. English manners and cus toms were also prevalent among the inhabitants. Tfais town was regularly fortijfied, and all the works were in good order. Two days after his arrival here. Dr. Moore walked along a magnificent avenue, as broad and about twice as long as the Mall at St. James's, to Hernhausen, one of the country seats of the elector. The house faad notfaing extraordinary in its appearance ; but tfae gar dens were as fine as gardens planned in tfae Dutch taste, and formed on ground perfectly level, could be made. The orangery was reckoned' equal to any in Europe. Tfaere was a kind of rural tfaeatre, where plays could be acted during fine weather in the open air. There was abo a spacious amphitheatre, cuf out in green seats for the spectators ; and a stage in tfae same taste, with rows of trees for the side scenes, and a great number of 270 moore's arbours and sumraer-rooms, surrounded by lofty hedges, for the actors lo retire to and dress in. In these gardens were several magnificent reservoirs and fountains ; and, ¦ in particular, one large and famous jet d'eau. From Brunswick the travellers proceeded towards Potsdam; and arrived the same afternoon at Magde burg. 'The country all the way was perfectly level. The dutchy of Magdeburg produced fine cattle, and a considerable quantity of corn. Dr. Moore had seen few or no enclosures in this, nor indeed in any part of Germany, except such as surrounded tfae gardens or parks oS princes, Magdeburg was a considerable town, welj built, and strongly fortified. Tfaere were manu factories here of cotton and linen goods, of stockings, gloves, and tobacco ; but particularly of silk and wooUen articles. Tfais town was well situated for trade, faaving an easy communication witfa Hamburg by tbe Elbe,, and lying on the road between Upper and Lower Germany. It was considered to be tfae strongest place belonging to fais Prussian Majesty, and where his principal ma gazines and founderies were established. To the distance of about two Kagues beyond Magde burg the country was fertile and well cultivated : after wards it became more barren ; and within a few leagues of Brandenburg it was as naked and sandy as the deserts of Arabia. Brandenburg, from which the electorate of that name faad its denomination, was but a small town, divided into two parts by a river, whicfa also separated tfae town from tfae fort. Tfaere was at tfais place a trade in woollen cloths, that were manufactured by some Frenchmen whom the king of Prussia had en couraged to reside here. From Brandenburg the traveUere proceeded to Pots dam^ Tfae king of Prussia (Frederic tfae Great) was at this time at Potsdam, for the purpose of review ing fais troops. Tfae travellers continued a few days tliere ; and passed tfae morning in seeing tfae troops, and the forenoons in inspecting whatever was curious in the town. The houses were built of a white free-stone ; travels IN GERMANY. 271 almost all of them were new, and nearly of the same height. The streets were regular, and well paved ; and tfaere were some magnificent public buildings : so that Potsdam faad e\-ery requisite to forra an agreeable town, as far as streets, stone walls, and external appearance could render it such. The king, having been desirous to see this town increase, had ordered several streets to be built at his own expense. The consequence was, that the houses having been erected (many of them of large dimensions) before there were inhabitants to oc cupy thera, several of them had been let to merchants and trades-people at low rents ; and few places were worse inhabited tfaan Potsdam. Dr. Mopre was not a little surprised, as fae walked through the town, to see buff belts, breeches and waistcoats, hanging to dry from the windows even of the genteelest looking houses : but when he was informed, that eacfa housekeeper had two or more soldiers quartered in his house, and that the apartments of the soldiers were for the most part on the first floor, with windows to the street, fais sur prise immediately ceased. The king chose that his soldiers sfaould be quartered with the citizens, rather than in barracks. The palace at Potsdam, or what was called the castle, was a noble building, with magnificent gardens ; and what appeared to Dr. Moore remarkable, the private study of the kiug was by far the finest apartment in it. "The ornaments of this apartment were of; massy silver ; the writing-desk, the embellishments of the table, and the accommodations for the books, were all in fine taste. Tfae person who attended. Dr. Moore asked if he faad any desire to see his majesty's wardrobe? On being answered in the affirmative, the man conducted him to the chamber where the monarch's clothes were depo sited. It had a very different appearance from the study. The whole wardrobe consisted oPtwo blue coats, faced with red, the lining of one a little torn, ; two yellow waistcoats, a good deal soiled with snuff; three pair of yellow breeches, and a suit of blue velvet. 272 moore's embroidered with silver, for grand occasions. Dr. Moore at first imagined that the man had obtained a few of the king's old clothes, and had kept them here to amuse strangers ; but, upon inquiry, fae was assured that what he had seen, together with two suits of uni form, wfaicfa the king- faad at Sans Souci, formed his entire wardrobe. The velvet suit was about ten years old. At a small distance from Potsdam was Sans Souci, another palace of the king of Prussia. The gallery of this palace contained an extensive collection of paint ings, some of them originals, and higfaly esteemed. The front of the palace seeraed crowded by a great num ber of statues wfaicfa were intended to ornament it. Tfae building had a cupola, terminated by a large cron-n, supported by figures of the tfaree graces. On tfae ground- floor, in tfae middle, was a large faall, tfae floor, sides, and roof of which were aU of marble. The other apart ments were adorned with rich furniture and paintings. When the duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore arrived at Berlin, preparations were making for a review. No thing was to be seen in the streets but soldiers parading, and officers hurrying backward and forward. The town looked more like tfae cantonment of a great army tfaan tfae capital of a kingdora at a tirae of profound peace. Tfae court itself resembled tfae levee of a general in the field ; for, except tfae foreign ministers and a few strangers, every person there was dressed in military uniform. The duke was presented to tfae king of Prussia at tfae levee, by the British minister, Mr. Harris, (now tfae earl of Malmesbury). The countenance and manner of the king were exceedingly animated ; he seeraed in high spirits, and spoke to all his officers in an easy style, and - witfa a kind of gay aflability The officers appeared be fore their master with an erect military boldness, free from tfaat cringing address wfaicfa prevails in many courts, and which would not have succeeded faere. The number of men reviewed was about thirty-eight TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 273 thousand, consisting- of the garrison of Berlin, and troops frbm some of the adjacent towns and villages. This army was in tbe field tfaree mornings successively, and the operations were dift'erent eacfa day. Beriin was, at tfais time, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. The streets were regular, and of commodious width; and, in tlie modern part of the town, were perfectly straight. One street was about two miles and a half in lengtfa ; and otfaers, wfaicfa went offal right angles from this, were from a mile to a mUe and a faalf long. A few of tfae braidings were very mag nificent. Tbe rest were neat houses, constructed of white free-stone, generally one, or, at most, two stories faigfa. Here, as at Potsdam, tfae finisfaing within did not correspond with the elegance of the outside ; and soldiers were quartered on tfae ground-floor, in rooms that looked to the street. Tfae principal edifices were the palaces of the king and prince, and tfae arsenal : the latter was said to contain arms for two hundred thousand men. The most fashionable walk in Berlin v%as in the middle of one of the principal streets. Be fore the houses on eacfa side of this street was a cause way, and between these two causeways were fine gravel walks, planted with Ume trees. Tents were pitched under these ; and ice, lemonade, and other refreshments were sold. Tfae company were generally in greatest number in the evening, and often walked till it was very late. Tfae duke of Hamilton faaving expressed an inclina tion to -risit tfae court of Mecklenburg Strelitz, , Dr. Moore accompanied faira thither. 'The weather being sultry, they chose to travel in the night, and accord ingly set off one evening about seven o'clock. As great part of the road lay through a large wood, and tfae night became very dark, tbe postUlions. lost their way. In a sfa.ort time they were perfectly bewildered. After many ineffectual attempts to find out the path, tfae duke thought it would be most prudent to unyoke the horses, and allow them to graze, while he and the N 3 274 moore's doctor slept in the chaise till day-light. This plan was adopted ; and as soon as the servants, by the light of tfae rising sun, faad discovered tbe path, the carriage proceeded by Oranienburg and Reinsburg lo Strelitz, When the travellers arrived at Strelitz, Ihey were in formed, that the court was at Brandenburg. Conse quently, after a short slay tfaere, tfaey proceeded to New Brandenburg, some leagues further north, and within a short distance of tfae Baltic. They arrived at this place in the morning of the third day after tfaey faad left Berlin ; and, soon afterwards, a carriage and equipage were sent to convey tfaem to tfae palace. Here they were introduced to the reigning duke of Mecklen burg Strelitz, and the princess his sister, brother and sister of the queen of Great Britain. The country around Brandenburg was remarkably fertile, and finely diversified witb bills, meadows, woods, and lakes. It yielded abundance of corn, hemp, and flax, and afforded excellent pasture for nuraerous flocks of sheep. Frora Brandenburg the travellers returned to Berli^. The king of Prussia was expected to be at Potsdam in a few days, to receive the princess of Hesse and the duchess of Wurtemberg, at Sans Souci ; and the duke of Hamil ton and Dr. Moore were invited lo attend the theatrical and other entertainments at this palace. They accord ingly went to Potsdam ; and, on the evenings of tfae entertainraents, drove to Sans Souci. The company assembled in one of the apartments of the palace, and about six o'clock walked to the theatre. Tfais was small, and had neither boxes nor pit, but only semi* circular benches in front of the stage. The king gene rally seated himself on the tltird or fourth row, imme diately after which the play began; and it was generally' finished about niae o'clock. After this the company returned to a large apartment of the palace, where the king remained conversing in a famihar manner till sup per was ready: fae then retired to bed, leaving the conduct of the supper-table to the princess his sister. TRAVELS IN GERMAN-^, 276 When there was no reptosentation at tfae jteatre, his majesty faad a private concert in fais own apartment. In tfaese coucerts this warlike monarch himself per formed on the German flute, an instrument in the play ing of which . he faad attained a very faigh degree of excellence. One, morning, while Dr. Moore was at Potsdam, he happened to take an early walk, about a mile out of the town ; and seeing some soldiers under arms, in a field at a small distance from the road, he went towards them. An officer on horseback, who appeared to be the major, for be gave the word, of command, was un commonly active, and often rode among the ranks to reprimand, or to instruct the common men. When, the doctor approached, he was much surprised to find that tfais was the king fairaself; and he seemed to exert him self witfa all the spirit of a young officer, eager to attract notice of his general by uncommon alertness. In tfaeir journey from Potsdam'to Dresden, tfae tra veUers were deUghted by passing through a beautiful and finely cultivated country, varied with woods, mea dows, rivers, and mountains ; rich crops of grain, flax, tobacco, and hops. At Dresden they were presented, by the British mi nister, to the elector and , electress of Saxony ; and afterwards to tfae otfaer brancfaes of tfae electoral family. The court was numerous and splendid. Though not one of the largest, Dresden was one of the most agree able cities in Germany, for situation, for the magnifi cence of its palaces, and the beauty and conveniency, of its. houses and streets. Tfae city, wfaich was fortified, was built on both sides of the Elbe. This river was of considerable width here; and the magnificent and commodious manner in whicfa tfae two opposite parts of the town were joined, added greatiy to its beauty. The palace and museura of the elector were both splendid. The latter consisted of several apartments, aU painted green, and contained a prodigious number of curiosities, both, natural and artificial. The gallory 276 moore's of pictures was higfaly esteemed. "Tfaere was atDresdcn a curious manufactory of porcelain. Dr. Moore several times visited tfae house and gar dens of tbe late Count Bruhl, tfae prime minister of Saxony. There had been in tfais house a fine collection of paintings, aud a valuable library ; but it was clnefly remarkable for the wardrobe of its possessor. The count is said to faave faad at least tfaree faundred dif ferent suits of clothes : each of tfaese faad a duplicate, as fae always sfaifted fais clotfaes after dinner, and did not cfaoose tfaat fais dress sfaould appear different in tfae afternoon from wfaat it faad been in tfae morning. A drawing of eacfa suit, witfa tfae particular cane and snuff-box belonging to it, was made in a large book, wfaich was presented to his exceUency every morning, tfaat fae might fix upon tfae dress in wfaicfa fae wished to appear for tfae day. From Dresden the travellers proceeded to Prague, tfae capital of Bofaeraia. This town stands in a holuiw, surrounded by hills ; but tfae hills nearest to the town, and whicfa commanded it, were comprefaended within the fortifications. Prague, when it was the residence of a royal family, was a place of considerable import ance, but it had for several years been going to decay. All the houses whicfa bore any appearance of magnifi cence were old. The inhabitants were Roman Catho lics ; aud the corners of Ihe streets, the bridges, and public buildings, were all ornamented with crucifixes, images of the 'Virgin, and statues of saints. People were to be seen on tbeir knees before tfaese statues in every part of tfae city,-but particularly on the large bridge over tfae river Moldaw, where there was' the greatest concourse of passengers. This bridge was so profusely adorned with the statues of saints, that, cross ing over it, there appeared on each side a row of them, like two ranks of musqueteers. Tfae generaUly of tra vellers, observes Dr. Moore, must have been astonished at the devotion of people in this city; and particularly at the vehemence witfa whicfa it was expressed by those TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 277 who exhibited before the images of saints upon the bridge. On arriving at Vienna the postiUions drove the doke and his party directly to the custom-house, where the baggage underwent a severe scrutiny ; but as nothing contraband was found, it was immediately afterwards conveyed to their lodgings. Tfae city of Vienna, properly so called, was not of great extent; nor could it be enlarged, as it was limited by a strong fortification : it however was very populous ; the streets were in general narrow, and the houses high. Some of the public buildings and palaces' were magnificent ; but, externally, they appeared to no advantage, on account of the narrowness of the streets. The chief of thera were the imperial palace, the library, the museum, and the palaces of tfae Princes Lichtenstein and Eugene. No houses were allowed to be built on the outside of the walls, nearer to them than six hun dred yards : there was, consequently," all round the town, a circular field of this width, which had a very beautiful and salutary effect. Beyond this plain the suburbs were built ; and they formed a very extensive and magnificent town, of an irregularly circular form, containing within its bosom a spacious field, which bad for its centre tfae original town of Vienna. The duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore were pre sented to tfae emperor of Germany, wfaose manners were affable, . easy, and gracefully plain ; and, on the same day, they drove lo Schonbrun, a palace about a league from Vienna, where the empress resided. Dr. ' Moore had no small curiosity to see the celebrated Maria Theresa, whose fortunes had interesied Europe for so many years. Her magnanimity iu supporting the calamities to which the early part of her life had been exposed, and the moderation with which sfae had borne prosperity, had secured to her universal apjAobation. She was alone when the -duke was presented ; and she conversed for some time with him in an easy and affable manner. 278 moore's 'Not long after his arrival at Vienna, Dr. Moore was induced to make an excursion to Presburg, the capital of Lower Hungary. Tfais place, like Vienna, had suburbs more magnificent than itselfl In Presburg the states of Hungary held their assemblies, and in tfae catfaedral church the sovereign was crowned. The doctor visited Ihe castle, a noble gothic building, of square forra, with a tower at each corner. The regalia of Hungary were deposited bere, being secured by seven locks, the keys of which were kept by the same number of Hungarian noblemen. The crown of Hun gary was still held to be elective ; and the heir of the house of Austria was elected as often as a vacancy hap pened. After dinner Dr. Moore, and a gentleman who faad accompanied faim, weut to visit a villa about four miles frora Presburg, belonging to an Hungarian nobleman. When wandering through the park they entered a Uttle wood, in a very retired place. As ifaey advanced into tfais, they saw a venerable looking old man, with a long beard, who, stretching out his hand, seemed to invite them to an hermitage, wfaich they observed bard by. Tfae gentleman, impatient to cultivate tfae acquaintance of a person of so hospitable an appearance, ran toward him. When he reached the hermit, fae suddenly stop ped sfaort, as if surprised ; and tfaen, to the utter asto nishment of Dr. Moore, he raised fais foot with every mark of indignation, and gave the poor old hermit a violent kick. Tfae doctor says,, tfaat he was quite con founded by so unworthy an action. But he was soon reconciled to the trc-atment, wfaen fae discovered tfaat tfais venerable personage was not tfae honest man he faad beeu taken for, but an impostor, made of painted wood, and dressed in tfae garb of a hermit, merely for the purpose of deceiving passengers. • Having left Presburg, the duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore went eight posts across a fertile country to the palace of Estherhasie, the residence of the Hungarian prince of that name. It was a noble building, situated TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 279 near a fine lake, and had been lately finished. The apartments were grand and commodious ; and the fur niture was extremely splendid. Near the palace was one tfaeatre for operas and other dramatic entertain^ ments, and a second for puppet-sliows. In the garden was a wooden house, buUt upon wheels: it contained a room, with a table, chairs, and other furniture ; closetsj and other accommodations. The prince sometimes entertained in this vehicle ten or twelve persons at a time, all of whom easily sat round the table ; and the whole company, thus arranged, could take, an airing together along the walks of the garden, and many parts of the park. Tfae machine was drawn by six or eight horses. The gardens and parks of this palace were of vast extent, and beautiful beyond description ; arbours, fountains, walks, woods, bills, and vallies, says Dr. Moore, were here thrown -together in a charming con fusion. Among other sights which Dr. Moore witnessed at Vienna, were the emperor's dining in public on the feast of St. Stephen, and an annual ceremony performed in commemoration of tfie defeat of the Turkish army, and of raising the siege of Vienna by John Sobieski, king of Poland. The imperial family, and the principal nobility of both sexes, with a prodigious train of bishops, priests, and monks, walked in solemn procession, and heard mass at the church of St. Stephen on this occa sion. In the middle of the street, leading from tfae palace to the church, a platform was raised, upon which the company, who formed the procession, walked. Tlie streets were fined witfa tfae imperial guards, aud the win dows and tops of the houses were crowded with spec tators. In consequence of iuvitations which they received, tfae duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore went oue evening to a grand masquerade at Schonbrun. Four thousand tickets were distributed on this occasion ; aud the prin cipal, rooms of tfae palace were thrown open for the reception of the company. Three large halls on the 280 moore's ground-floor were appropriated to the arrangement of an elegant cold collation. In the large dining-room was a raised seat for the empress and some ladies who attended her. Here a grand ballet was danced by the archduke, tfae archduchesses, the princess of Modena, and some of the chief nobility, to the number of twenty- four. In the garden, on the rising ground opposite to the palace windows, a temporary fabric was erected ih the form ofa large and magnificent temple, and iUumi- nated by an incredible number of lamps. The emperor mixed with the company without ceremony or distinc tion, and conversed with different persons in tfae most familiar manner. Not long after this tfae travellers were invited lo Prince Licfatenstein's country seat, in Austria, to be present at a hunting match. The Princess Lichtenstein and anotfaer lady, witfa many of the German nobiUty, at tended. Tfaey were conducted to the woods in car riages. Here Dr. Moore imagined tbe men would faave immediately proceeded to the scene of action, leaving the ladies till their return : but in this fae was mistaken ; for the ladies were to assist in the amusement. As it was necessary to traverse a large wood, into wfaich Coaches could not enter, a more commodious kind of vehicles were used. These were formed like benches, with stuffed seats; and upon each of them six or eight people sat, one behind the other. They were each drawn by four horses, and slided over the ground like sledges, passing along paths and trackless ways, over wfaicfa no wfacel-carriage could be drawn. After cross ing Ihe wood the party came to a large o'pen plain, in whicfa were several little circular enclosures of trees and underwood, at wide intervals from each otfaer. Hitherto the procedure had been attended with very little fatigue; and, after so much inactivity. Dr. Moore expected some violent exercise would follow; wheu, to his astonishment, the prince's servants began to arrange several portable chairs at a small distance from one of the thickets. The princess and the rest of the com- TRAVELS IN GERMANY. 281 pany took their places ; and, when every one was seated. Dr. Moore was informed that the hunting would immediately begin. He soon afterwards perceived, at a great distance, a long line of people moving towards tbe little wood, near wfaicfa tfae company was seated. Tfaese were peasants, with their wives and children ; tfaey came forward in regular order, and roused tfae game in tfae fields. Tfae game naturally sougfat for shelter in Ihe thickets. Shortly afterwards the peasants rushed into the thicket, at the side opposite to tfaat wfaere tfae company faad taken post, and beat out the game. Tfaen the massacre commenced. Each person was provided with a gun; and many additional guns were at hand loaded for immediate use. The servants were employed in charging the pieces as fast as tfaey were fired off; so tfaat an uninterrupted shooting was kept up as.Iong as tfae game continued to fly or run out of tfae wood. Tfae prince killed more than thirty par tridges, a few pheasants, and three hares. At tfae be ginning of tfae scene Dr. Moore was surprised to see one of the servants hand a gun to the princess: sfae, witfa great coolness, and without rising from -her seat, took aim at a partridge, wfaicfa irhinediately fell to tfae ground. With tfae same ease sfae idled ten or twelve partridges and pfaeasants. The company afterwards walked to other little enclosures of underwood, wfaere game was driven out and killed as before. SIXTEENTH EVENING. Narrative of Dr. Moore's Travels in Italy. After a residence of several weeks at Vienna, tfae duke of Hamilton and fais suite left that city, and pro ceeded, througfa the duchies of Stiria, Carinthia, and Carniola, to Venice. . The roads were good, and, tfae 282 moore's inns intolerably bad. . Tfae mountains amoQg wfaich tfae travellers passed, were partly covered witfa wood; and among tfaem were raany fields and valUes, fit for pas turage and the production of grain. The only incident deserving of notice during this part of their journey occurred at the town of IVipach, in Carniola. It began to.grow dark when the traveUers arrived ; and the post-master was smoking his pipe at the door. As soon as the chaise stopped, Dr. Moore called faira to get ready tfae horses without lo^s of time; " for," added he, in a tone of importance, " we cannot possibly stay a moraent." To this the post-raaster coolly replied, that, since tfaey were in so great a faurry, fae should not attempt to detain tfaem, but tfaat he had no horses to carry tfaem on. Dr. Moore asked faow soon they could be got. He answered, when tfaey re turned frora attending tfae arcfaduke and ducfaess of Austria, wfao were gone to Trieste ; but whether tfaat would be the next day, the day following, or a day or two afterwards, he could not tell. It appeared a great hardship to be stopped short so unexpectedly at a little paltry' inn ; but, resolving to make a virtue of necessity, and to bear tbeir misfortunes with firmness and equanimity, Ihe travellers stepped out of the chaise and ordered the post-master to get ready beds, a good supper, and sorae of his best wine. Instead of receiving this injunction with marks of gra titude, as might have been expected, he answered with out emotion, that he had no wine but for his own drink ing ; that he never gave suppers to any but bis own family; and that he had no bed, except that which faimself, fais wife, and fais cfaild occupied, and wfaich could not easily hold more than three at a time. Dr. Moore had not hitherto perceived that this man's faouse was not an inn. As soon as fae was undeceived, he requested the post-master to inform thera where tbe inn was. The man pointed with' fais pipe to a small faouse on tfae opposite side of tfae street. They pro ceeded thither, and wei-e there told, that all the victuals travels in ITALY. 283 in the house were already devoured ; that three or four guests were in every spare room ; that tfae family was going to bed, and that they coiild not possibly receive any more company. In this dilemma Dr. Moore re turned to the post-master, who was still smoking his pipe. He stated their bad s.uccess, and, in a soothing tone, begged to know how they were to dispose of themselves for the night ? The post-master replied, that was more than he could tell. It now began to rain ; and, tfae evening being exceedingly cold, fae wished thera a good night ; then retiring into fais house, he sfaut aud bolted the door carefully after hira. In this forlorn condition Dr. Moore turned to an Italian servant belonging to the duke of Hamilton, a shrewd fellow, who seldom wanted a resource in time of difficulty. This man was at firsjt perplexed how to act. -At length, however, > starting up, he fa'dstily walked away. Dr. Moore followed hirn to a convent of monks. The" Italian knocked at the door, and, having obtained access to the superior of the -convent, represented to him tfae condition of the travellers. Tfae venerable old man beard faim witfa an air of benevolence, expressed sorrow at the treatment tfaey faad received, and obtained- for thera a comfortable lodging, though at a poor look ing house, "occupied by a widow and her children. Tfaey had faere a supper of sour krout and salad: the wine was excellent, and the beds delightful. The widow, as the travellers understood in the morning, had sat up all night witfa her family, that her guests might be accommodated with beds ; but, frora the re muneration that was made to her by the duke, she faad no cause to repent of faer faospitality. The poor woman's gratitude made her talk loudly of the duke's generosity. This coming to the ears of the post-raaster, induced faim to make an effort to get the chaises dragged on to Goritia, the next stage, without waiting the return of the post-horses. Three cart horses and two oxen were yoked to them ; and these 284 moore's were relieved, in the most mountainous part of the road, by a pair of buffalos. About two days afterwards the travellers arrived at Mestre, a small town on the banks of tfae Tagane, wfaere they continued all night. The next morning they proceeded in a boat to Venice ;^ and in this city they were accommodated with exceUent apartments at an inn on the bank of the Grand Canal. In company with tlie arcfaduke and ducfaess of Austria, whom tfaey afterwards met with faere, tfaey visited the arsenal of Venice, a fortification of between two and tfaree miles in compass. It was botfa a dock-yard and a repository for naval and military stores. Here tfae Vene tians built their sfaips, cast their cannon, and made their cable, sails, anchors, and other articles of war. The arms were arranged in large rooms, divided into narrow walks by long walls of muskets, pikes, and faalherts. After this they were conducted on board the Bucentaur, a vessel in which it was customary to carry the doge of Venice to perform the annual ceremony of espousing the Adriatic. Th,ey were tfaen rowed to a part of tfae lake, wfaence tfaere was the most advantageous view of Venice. The amusements of this day had all the ad vantage of novelty to render them agreeable ; and also every additional pleasure whicfa tfae attentive and poUte befaaviour of the Venetian nobility could give. Dr. Moore had the honour of attending tfaeir high nesses when tfaey went to visit the island of Murano, about a mile from Venice. This island contained about twenty thousand inhabitants ; had formerly been a flourishing place, and still could boast some palaces, thougfa many of its buildiugs faad of late years gone to decay. The great manufactories of looking-glasses were now the chief inducements for strangers to visit it. The doctor saw faere one very fine plate for a mirror made in a few minutes. It was not cast, but was blown in tfae manner of a bottle, and was much larger than he could have tfaougfat it in the power of human beings to TRAVELS IN ITALY. 285 iuflate. It is astonishing, says he, to see with what dexterity" the workman, at the end of an iron tube, wields a long hollow cylinder of melted glass ; which, when fae has extended as much as possible, by blowing, and every otfaer means that his art suggests, he slits with a sharp instrument, removing the two extremities frora each "other, and folding back the sides. The cylinder now appears a large sheet of glass ; and tfais, being once raore introduced into the furnace, is brought out a clear but unpolished pla.te. The manufactories in the island of Murano formerly supplied all Europe with looking-glasses; and, besides tliese, an infinite variety of glass trinkets, of all shapes and colours, were made here. Venice, from a little distance, has a very singular ap pearance. Magnificent churcfaes, towers, and -steeples, all seem rising from the midst of the sea. Indeed this city is said to be built in the sea ; that is, it is built in the midst of shallows, wfaich stretch sorae miles from the sfaore, at tfae bottom of tfae Adriatic gulf. Tfaere are canals through every part of it, and most of the houses faave one door opening upon a canal, and an other communicating with the street. Tfae streets in general are narrow ; so are tfae canals, except the Grand Canal : this is very broad, and has a serpentine course through the middle of tfae city. Travellers are fold, tfaat, in Venice, tfaere are several faundred bridges. What pass under this name, however, are single arches thrown over the canals, and most of tfaem very paltry. Tfae Rialto is a noble bridge of marble, built across the Grand Canal, and consists of a single arch. Its beauty is, however, irapaired by two rows of booths or shops, whicfa are erected upon it, and divide its upper surface into three narrow streets. The view from the Rialto is equaUy lively and magnificent ; the objects unde^ the eye are the Grand Canal, covered witfa flat-bottomed boats, or gondolas, as they are here called, and flanked on each side with magnificent palaces, churches, and spires. Except the Grand Canal, and tfae Canal Regio, 286 moore's all tbe others are narrow and mean. In sailing along thera there is no one agreeable object to cheer the sight ; and tfae sraell is overwfaelmed with the stench which, at certain seasons, exhales frora the water. Tfae only place in Venice wfaere people can walk with ease and safety, is the Piazza di St. Marco, or St. Mark's Place. This is a kind of irregular triangle, formed by a number of buildings, all singular in their kind, and very different from each other : of tfaese the- ducal palace, tfae church of St. Mark, and some -other public edifices, are constructed chiefly of marble. The church of St. Mark is one of the richest and most ex pensive structures in the world. Its outside is encrusted witfa marble, and its wfaole interior is of tfae finest marble.' The front, which looks towards the palace, had, at this tirae, five brass gates, with historical bas- reliefs upo'n them. Over tfae principal gate were placed four famous bronze horses, said' to faave been the workmanship of Lycippus. The treasury of St. Mark, says Dr. Moore ironically, is rich ih relics. He was sfaown eigfat pillars from Solomon's temple ; a piece of the Virgin Mary's veil, some of her faair, and a small portion of faer milk ; tfae knife used by our Saviour at fais last supper ; one of tfae nails of the cross, and a few drops of his blood ; besides a vast number of bones and other relics of saints and martyrs ; and particularly a picture of the Virgin (a very indifferent production) said to faave been painted by St. Luk^ The ducal palace is an immense building, entirely of marble. Be sides tfae apartments of tfae doge, it also contained tfae faalls and cfaambers for tfae senate, and for all the dif ferent councils and tribunals. In an evening, during fine weather,-St. Mark's place was generally crowded witfa persons sauntering tfaere for amusement, and to enjoy tbe open air. It exhibited a motley group of Jews, 'Turks, and Christians ; lawyers, knaves, and pickpockets; mountebanks, old women, and physicians ; women of quality with masks, and .^other women witho.ut: in short, it was a jumble of TRAVELS IN ITALY. 287 senators, citizens, gondoliers, and people of every cha racter and condition. When the piazza was illuminated, and the shops in the adjacent streets were lighted, the whole faad a briUiant effect. Venice was supposed to contain at tfais time about one hundred and fifty thousand infaabitants. • There were as raany as eight or nine different theatres, in cluding the opera-house. To these, as well as to other public places, and even in the streets, it was not unusual to see persons of both sexes go in masksi Tfaese, faow- ever, were not in general intended to conceal the per sons who wore them, but were only used as an apology for their not being in full dress. With a mask stuck under his hal, and a kind of mantle, trimmed with lace of the same colour, sind hung over the shoulders, a man was considered sufficiently dressed for any assembly in Venice. Dr. Moore describes the Venetians as a lively and ingenious people, extravagantly fond of public amuse ments. The common people, he says, were sober, ob- Uging to strangers, and gentle in their intercourse with eacfa other. "Tfaey vvere in general tall and well made ; and the women had a fine style of countenance, with expressive features, and a skin of rich carnation colour. The faouses of tfae Venetians had in general their floors formed of a kind of red plaster, with a brilliant glossy surface. The principal apartments were on the second floor, the first being seldom inhabited, and often en tirely filled with lumber. They perhaps preferred the second floor, because it was farthest removed frora 'the moisture of the canals, or because it was better lighted, or more cheerful than the other. After the travellers had continued some time in Venice, tfae duke of Hamilton and Dr. Moore engaged two barks ; one to convey the chaises, baggage, and some of the servants, to Ferrara ; aud the other to convey them selves along tfae river Brenta, to Padua.' Tfaey passed up tfae Brenta- as far as tfae village of Doglio,vihere there was a bridge; but the waters were so much 288 moore's svvelled by an excessive fall of rain, that there was not room for the boat to pass through the arch. They con- • sequently landed, and, having faired two open cfaaise's, proceeded along tfae banks of the river to Padua. Both sides of the streara displayed gay and luxuriant sceues of fertility : they were ornamented by a great variety of beautiful villas; and the verdure of tfae meadows and gardens was not surpassed even by tfaat of England. No city in tfae world, observes Dr. Moore, has less affinity with tfae country tfaan Venice, and few can have mpre than Padua; for a great part of the circuit within the walls was at this tirae unbuilt ; aud the town in general was so thinly inhabited, that grass was seen to grow in ihany places between tfae interstices of the stones with whicfa the streets were paved. The faouses were constructed witfa porticos, which gave it a gloomy and melancholy air. Among other curiosities of the place tfae travellers were conducted to see tfae Franciscan church, dedicated to St. Antonio, the patron saint of Padua. Tfae body of tfais saint was enclosed in a sarcophagus under an altar in tfae middle of tfae chapel, and is said to faave emitted an agreeable and refreshing odour. The ca tholics believed this to have been the natural effluvium of the saint's body ; but others asserted, that the per fume proceeded from certain balsams, rubbed on the marble every morning, before tfae votaries came to pay their devotions. The walls of the churcfa were covered witfa votive offerings of ears, eyes, arms, legs, noses, and other parts of the fauman body, in token of so many miraculous cures performed tfarough the influence of tfais saint ;,for wfaatever part had been the seat of the disease, a representation of it was hung up in silver or gold, according to the gratitude or wealth of the patient. In the cfaurch of St. Justina, the next in point of rank in Padua, were kept, as relics, the bones of /perhaps more .martyrs than were to be found in any churcfa in Christendom. 'There was a whole well full of tfaem; TRAVELS IN ITALY. 209 and besides these the Paduans assert, that they possess the bodies of the two evangelists, St. Mattfaew and St. Luke. In the town-house, a hall of immense size, the tra vellers remarked a monument of Livy, the Roman historian, who was a native of this place. The uni versity of Padua, formerly celebrated throughout Eu rope, was now on the decline, and had but few stu dents. After having remained a few days at Padiia, the tra vellers returned to Ihe village of Doglio, where Jthey bad left their vessel. In thejr progress they visited sorae of the villas on the banks of the Brenta, The apa'rtraents of these were gay and spacious, and must have been delightful in summer; but none of the Italian faouses seemed calculated for winter, althougfa this season is sometimes as severe in the vicinity of Padua as it is in England. Having embarked in their little vessel, they soon entered a canal, about twenty- two Italian miles in length, which communicates with the Po, The banks of this famous river were beauti fully fertUe ; and as the travellers were able without difficulty to keep pace with the vessel, they amused themselves during the greatest part of tfae day by walk ing. Early in the morning they arrived at Ferrara, The magnificent streets and buildings of this city, show it to have formerly been a rich aud flourishing place ; but the inhabitants at this time, who were^few in pro portion to the extent of the town, bore every mark of poverty. The citizens of Ferrara still retained an old privilege of wearing swords ; and this privilege extended even to the lowest raechanics, who strutted" about with great dignity. Fencing was now the only science in a flou rishing condition in this town, which furnished alraost all the towns of Italy with skilful fencing-ihasters. Ferrara was formerly celebrated for a manufactory of sword-blades. . Tbe emperor, Joseph the Second, and two of hjs brothers, had lately lodged at the inn in which the duke Tkav. o 290 moore's of Hamilton and Dr. Moore had apartments. Tfae landlord was so vain of this honour, that he could not be prevailed witfa to speak on any otfaer subject. After the man had mentioned a thousand particulars relative to his illustrious guests, Dr. Moore asked faim wfaat tfae duke and faimself could faave for supper ? Tfae man replied, tfaat tfaey should sup in the very same room in which his iraperial majesty had dined. Tfae doctor repeated fais question ; and tfae man replied, he did not believe there were tfaree more affable princes in tfae world. The doctor said, fae hoped supper would soon be ready : tfae landlord told him, that the arch duke was fond of a fricassee, but that tfae emperor pre ferred a fowl, |)Iain roasted. Tfae doctor, witfa an air of impatience, begged to have the supper immediately sent in : the landlord bowed, and walked to the doof ; but, before he disappeared, he turned about and saul, that altfaougfa fais majesty ate no raore than an ordinary man, yet fae paid like an emperor. Wfaen tfae travellers left Ferrara, the landlord in sisted on tfaeir taking six faorses to eacfa cfaaise, on account of tfae badness of tfae roads. They attempted to remonstrate, tfaat four would be sufficient ; but he cut the matter short, by protesting that tfae roads were so very deep, he would not allow the best friend he faad in the world, not even the emperor faimself, were he there in person, to take fewer than six. In approaching Bologna, tfae country gradually im proved in cultivation ; and, even at tfae distance of some mUes from tfaat town, it seemed one continued garden. Tfae vineyards were not divided by faedges, but by rows . of elms and mulberry trees ; the vines hung in a most beautiful and picturesque manner, in festoons from one tree to another. This country was not only fertile in vines, but in corn, olives, and pasturage. The town of Bologna was. well built an4 piopulous. The houses in general faad lofty porticoes; for, in Italy, shade is considered a luxury. Tfae infaabitants carried ou a trade in silks and velvets, which were mauufiictured TRAVELS IN ITALY. 291 here in great perfection ; and tbe vidhity furnished'all Europe witfa sausages, macaroni, liqueUrs, and essences. Tfae markets were plentifully suppUed witfa provisions; fruit in great variety was to be had ; and the common wine of the country was a Ugfat white wine, of agreeable flavour. There were many palaces in Bologtta; but what was called tfae public palace was by far tfae moSt spacious, though not the most elegant, of them all. Several of them contained paintings of great value. The uni versity of Bologna was one of the mOst ancient and most celebrated seats of literature in Europe ; and the academy for arts and sciences had alone been considered a. sufficient attraction for Strangers to visit this city. Next to Rome there was not, perhaps, any town in the world so ricfa in paintings as Bologna. Tlie cfaUrcfaes and palaces (besides many admired pieces 'by otfaer masters) were full of the works""of.greaf masters, natives of tfae place. In their way from Bologna to Aiicona, tfae travellers passed tfarough Ruverma, and .Jifterwards crossed the river of Pisatello, tfae famous Rubicon, wfaicfa lies' be tween Ravenna and Rimini. This river was the ancient boundary between Italy and Cisalpine Gaul; and no Roman, returning to Rome, could pass in arms beyond it, witfaout being deemed an eneray to his country. -Thougfa Rimini was now Jn a -state of great decay, it contained some monuments of antiquity worthy the attention of the curious traveller.- 'It was the first town of wfaicfa Julius Caesar took possession, after fae faad passed tfae Rubicon ; and in tfae market-place tfaere was still existing a kind of stone pedestal, with an in scription, declaring, tfaat on it Csesar had stood and harangued fais army. Tfaere are, however, considerable doubts respecting tfae authenticity of tfais inscripfton. Tfae travellers next passed through Pesaro, an agree able town, better built and paved than any of the places they had visited on the shore of the Adriatic. From Pesaro they p'roceeded to Fano ; arid, a few miles be- o2 292 MOORES yond it, crossed tfae river Metro, wfaere Claudius Nero, tfae Roman consul, defeated Asdrubal, the brother of Hannibal ; and they arrived the same night at Ancona. Tfais was a sea-port, and a place of considerable trade. ' Being exposed, by the nature of its commerce with Turkey, to the contagious diseases which prevail iu that sountry, a noble lazaretto, or hospital, faad beeu erected at a little distance from the town. Near the mole stood the triumphal arch, as it is called, of Trajan, an honorary monument, that was erected in gratitude to that emperor, for the improveraeiits which, at fais own expense, he made in this harbour. It was of Parian marble, and was the most beautiful and entire monu- nument _of Ron\an taste and magnificence that Dr. - Moore had ever seen. The road frora Ancona to Loretto extended through a fine country of beautiful hills and vallies. Loretto itself was a sraall town, situated on an eminence, about three miles from the sea; and the accommodations tfaat were afforded to the travellers at the inn were worse than any tfaey had experienced since tfaeir entrance into Italy. This place had obtained great celebrity among Ihe catholics, on account of wjiat was called the Holy Chapel of Loretto. It was believed that this chapel had originally been a small faouse in Nazareth, inha bited by the Virgin Mary : the sarae in which she was saluted by the angel, and where she had lived with our Saviour in fais youth. After her death (as the catholics relate) it was held in great veneration, and at length was consecrated into a chapel, and dedicated to faer. They believe it to have continued in Galilee so long as that district was inhabited by Christians; but when the infidels obtained possession of the country, Ihey say that a band of angels, to save it from pollution, conveyed it from Nazareth. into Dalmatia. Not being there enter tained with suitable respect, they again moved it, carried it over Ihe sea, and finally placed it in a field belonging to a noble lady, called Lauretta, from wfaom tfae chapel TRAVELS IN ITALY. 293 afterwards took its name. This field happening to be frequented by higliwayinen and murderers, the angels removed it to tfae top of a liill belonging to two bro- tfaers. These becoming jealous of each other respect ing this new visitor, quarrelled, fought, and fell by mutual wounds. After this the angels are said finally to have moved the Holy Chapel to the eminence where it now stands, and where it is believed to have continued more than four hundred years. Dr. Moore says, that it was situated at the further end of a large church, w as thirty-two feet long, , four teen broad, and about eighteen high. It was enclosed in a kind of marble covering, ornamented with bas- reliefs, the subjects of which were taken from the his tory of the Blessed Virgin. While Dr. Moore was examining these, he was not a little incommoded by nu merous pilgrims, who were crawling round the Holy Chapel on tlieir knees, kissing the ground, and saying their prayers with great fervour. The chapel was divided into two unequal portions by a kind of grate work of .silver, to separate the sanctuary from the other part. There were in it an abun dance of gold and silver lamps. One of these, of gold, that was presented by the republic of Venice, is said to have weighed tbirt-v-seven pounds; and some of the silver lamps weighed from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty pounds each. At the upper end of the larger "room was aii altar, but so low that from it was visible the famous image of the Virgin, which stood over the chimney in the small room, or sanctiiary. This image the catholics represent to have been the workmanship of St. Luke. It was about four feet high ; the face only was visible, and this exhibited the features and complexion of a negro. The figure of the infant Jesus was not better executed. Both-figures had crowns on their heads, enriched with diamonds. Gold and silver angels, of considerable size, knelt around ; some of thera offered hearts of gold, enriched with diamonds; and one of thera held an infant of 294 MOORE'S pure gold. Tfae wall of the sapctnary was plated with silver, and variously adorned with crucifixes and pre cious stones. Tfae dress of tfae Virgin was most mag nificent, but was in a wretcfaedly bad taste. Sfae bad particular clothes for the different feasts held in honour of her ; and her robes were ornamented witfa all kinds of precious stones from the top to the hem. 'The travellers, among other curiosities, were shown tfae cfaimney and some furniture, which, as the priests pretend, belonged to the Virgin while she lived at Na zareth, particularly a little earthen porringer, out of wfaicfa, tfaey said, the faoly infant ate. Above a faundred masses were daily said in tfais chapel, and in tfae cfaurcfa in wfaich it stands. 'The jewels and other riches in the treasury, estimated at an enormous value, faad been the presents of various royal, noble, and wealthy bigots of different Catholic countries. It was asserted, however, tfaat tfae popes faad occasionally melted down some of tfae precious metals belonging to tfae cfaapel for tfae use of tfae state ; and also, that the most valuable of tbe jewels had been picked out, and sold for tfae same pur pose, false stones being substituted in their room. Iu tfae great cfaurcfa were several altars, or Uttle cfaapels, tfae iron grates before wfaicfa were said to have been made of the fetters and cfaains of more than four thousand Cfaristian slaves, who had been freed from bondage by a glorious victory over the Turks at Le panto. From the moment tfaese. were pointed out to Dr. Moore, he says, that tfaey commanded bis attention raore than all tfae treasures of tlie Holy Cfaapel. The travellers left Loretto in tlie afternoon. Tfaey lodged tfaat night at a small viUage at the foot of tfae Apennines. .On the following morning they crossed these mountains, and, in the course of tbe day, arrived at Foligno, a thriving town, in which were considerable manufactories of paper, cloth, and silk. Tfae situation of tfais town was peculiarly delightful. It stood in a cfaarming valley, laid out in cornfields and vineyards,' intersected by mulberry and almond trees, and watered TRAVELS IN ITALY. 295 by tfae river, Clitumnus. From Foligno Ifaey, went to Spoleto, a small town, supplied with water by means of an ancient aqueduct, one of the highest and most entire in Europe. They now passed over the loftiest of the Apennines, and then descended througfa a forest of olive trees, to the fertile valley in whicfa Terni, the birtfa-place of tfae faistorian 'Tacitus, was situated. Thence tbey proceeded, by Narni and Civita Castel lan a, to Rome. Dr. Moore says he is convinced that this is tfae only country in the world where the fields 'becorae more de solate as tfae traveller approacfaes the capital. In tfae Campania of Rome, formerly tfae best cultivated, and the best peopled spot in the world, no houses, no trees, no enclosures, were to be seen ; there were nothing but the scattered ruins of temples and tombs,' presenting the idea of a country depopulated by a pestilence. In the midst of these deserted fields the ancient mistress of the world reared her head in melancholy majesty. After the arrival of tfae travellers in Rome, tfaey gene raUy passed their mornings in' visiting the antiquities and paintings in tfae various palaces ; and spent tw«i.or _ tfaree faours every evening at the conversazionis, or assemblies in the houses.of the nobility. Some of tfae principal streets of Rome were of consi;- derable length, and perfectly straighti In tfae Corso, tfae most frequented of tfaera, tfae sfaops on each side were three or four feet higher tfaan tfae street ; and tfaere was a patfa for the convenience of foot passengers on a level with the sfaops. The palaces, of wfaicfa there were several in this street, ranged in a line with tfae faouses, and had no court before them. It would be difficult to convey an idea of the. smaller and less re gular streets. But in general it may be observsed that Rome, at this time, exhibited a strange mixture of mag nificent and interesting, comraon and beggarly, Objects. The former consisted of palaces, churches, fountains, and, above all, tfae remains of. antiquity. Tfae latter comprehended all the rest of the city. 296 moore's The church of St. Peter, in the opinion of many persons, surpasses in size and magnificence the finest monuments of ancient architecture. All wfao faave seen St, Paul's in London, may, by an enlargement of its diraensions, form some idea of the external appearance of St. Peter's. But the resemblance fails entirely on comparing thera within : St. Peter's is lined, in many parts, with the most precious and beautiful raarble, and is adorned with valuable pictures, and all the powers of sculpture. As the church of St. Peter was unquestionably the finest piece of raodern architecture in Rome, tfae Pan- theon, or Rotunda, the temple erected to all the gods, tfaough not the largest, was the most entire autique temple in this famous city; and, notwithstanding all tfae depredations which it faad sustained, it still re mained a beautiful monument of Roman taste. The Amphitheatre of Vespasian, now corruptly called tlie Coliseum, from a colossal statue of Apollo whicfa was placed before it, was the most stupendous monument of antiquity in Rome. It had been con structed for a place of public exhibition, of combats of gladiators, combats of wild beasts, and other scenes of . cruelty, and is supposed to have been capable of con taining eighty-five thoiis-dud spectators. Its original destination had long ceased ; many of its parts were now in ruins, and fourteen chapels had been erected within it, representing the different stages of our Sa viour's passion. It would be impossible, within the short compass of the present narrative, to describe, even in a cursory manner, the various celebrated edifices in this famous city. Little more can be done than to mention what they were, and to recite a few of the leading particulars respecting thera. Tfae Capitol and the Forum Romanum constituted at by far the most interesting scene of antiquities in Rome. The approach to tfae modern CampidogHo was very noble. It was raised on part of tiie ruins of TRAVELS IN ITALY. 297 the ancient capitol, and fronted St. Peter's church. In the two wings of this palace the conservators of the city had apartments ; and in the main body resided an Italian nobhman, appointed by the pope, with the title of senator of Rome. Near this palace were the remains of Ihe Forum Romanum: these now exhibited a me lancholy but interesting view of the devastion wrought by the united force of time, avarice, and bigotry. .The first objects which met .the eye on looking from this point, were three fine pillars, nearly buried in the ruins of the old capitol : they are said to have been the re mains of the Temple of .lupiter Tonans, built by Au gustus, io gratitude for having narrowly escaped death from a -stroke of lightning. Near them were the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Staler, consisting of three very elegant small Corinthian pillars, with their entablature ; the Temple of Concord, where Cicero assembled the senate, on I he discovery of CatiUne's conspiracy ; the Temple of Romulus and Remus, aud that of Antoninus and Faustina, just by it, both con verted into modern churches; the ruins of the magnifi cent Temple of Peace, built immediately after tfae taking of Jerusalem, when the Roman empire was in a state of profound peace. Of many triumphal arches, wfaich stood formerly in Rome, there were at this time only three remaining, all of tfaera near the capitol, and forming entries to the Forum; those of Titus, Septimus Severus, and Con stantine. The last was by far the finest of the whole. The relievos of Ihe arch of Titus represented the table of shew-bread, the trumpets, the golden candlestick with seven branches, and other utensils brought from the temple of Jerusalem. There is reason to believe Ihat the ancient Forum was entirely surrounded with temples, and pubUc build' ings of various kinds, adorned with porticos and'colon- ades. In the time of the Republic, assemblies of the people were held there, laws were proposed, and justice o 3 298 moore's administered ; and in it was the Rostrum, wfaence the orators faarangued tfae people. Tfae Tarpeian Rock is a continuation of the rock on which the capitolwas built. Dr. Moore went to that part from whicfa crimiuals condemned to death were thrown. It was at this time fifty-eight feet high; but the accumulatfon of rubbish had, in latter ages, been so great, that anciently it raust faave been much higher. Of the Forum ofTrajanall tfaat remained was tfae noble column called Trajan's Pillar, wfaich faad been con structed in it. This column consisted of twenty-three circular pieces of white marble; was twelve feet' hi diameterat the bottom ; had within it a staircase,^ con sisting of one hundred and eigfaty-tfaree steps, and was an faundred and twenty feet high, exclusive of tfae statue at tfae top. The most memorable events of Trajan's expedition against the Dacians were admirably wrought in a continued spiral line, from tfae bottom of tbe co lumn upward. The ashes of Trajan were deposited in an urn at the bottom, and fais statue wasplaced at tfae top. Pope Sixtus the Fifth, however, in room of tfae emperor's, had a statue of St.. Peter placed upon this column. Dr, Moore states^ that so numerous were the churcfaes, palaces, and ruins of tfais city and its vicinity, tfaat to visit all tfaat were worth seeing, would occupy about six weeks, at the rate of three hours a day. But after faaving made tfais course, he remarks, that, if all tfae most interesting objects were not visited again and again, the labour would be of littie use. In most of the churches were valuable paintings ; and there were about thirty palaces as full of pictures as the walls would admit. 'There were likewise ten or twelve villas in the neighbourhood of Rome, which were usually. visited by strangers, and some of these were ornamented also with sculpture of the most exquisite workmanship.. But tfae finest specimens of antique sculpture were to be seen in tbe palace of tfae Vatican. While Dr. Moore was in Rome he was witness to TRAVELS IN ITALY. 299 several of the Roman Catholic ceremonies. Among others, he was present at what is called the beatifica tion of a saint. This ceremony was performed in St. Peter's cfaurcfa, and was a very tedious and: uninterest ing one. The present being' the jubilee year, a year of peculiar celebration, originally instituted by Pope Boni- hce the Eighth, in 1300, (when fae assured mankind that Heaven would' iu a particular manner be propitious in granting indulgences and reraission of sins to all who would come to Rome, and attend the functions there to be performed), many cereraonies took place wfaicfa are not observed in otfaer years. This jubilee recurred once in every twenty-five years. In the churcfa of^ St. Peter there was one door, called the Holy Door, which was always walled up, except in this distinguished year, and even then uo person was permitted to enter by it, but in the humblest posture. Dr. Moore was present at the ceremony of closing this door. The pope, being seated on a kind' of tfarone, surrounded by cardinals and other ecclesiastics, an anthem was sung, accompanied by musical instruments. During the per formance, his holiness descended from the throne, with a golden trowel in fais hand, placed the first brick, and applied- some mortar ; he retumed to. his seat, and the door was instantly built up by other more experienced workmen. This ceremony took place on the 24lh of' December; and; at midnight, mass was celebrated, and attended by vast multitudes of people. After tfae mass on Christmas Day, tfae pope gave fais benediction to the people assembled in the grand court of St. Peter's church. It was a remarkably fine day, and tbe multi tude was immense. The pope, witfa fais tiara on fais head, and seated on a chair of state, in all the splendour which his wardrobe could yield, was carried out of a large window which opens on a balcony in the frpnt of St. Peter's cfaurcfa. Xfae silk hangings, and golden trappings, with which the cfaair was embellished; con- cealed-frora view the men who carried it. Tfae instant fae appeared, tfae music struck up, the bells rung iij; 300 MOORES every church, and the cannon thundered from the castte of St. Angelo in repeated peals. During tfae intervals, the- church of St. Peter, the palace of the Vatican, and tfae banks of the Tiber, re-echoed the acclamations of the populace. At length the pope arose frora his seat, and an immediate and awful silence ensued. The multitude fell on tfaeir knees, with their faands and e>es raised towards fais holiness. After a solemn pause fae pro nounced tfae benediction with great fervour, elevating fais outstretched arras as faigfa as he could ; then closing thera together, and bringing thera back to his breast with a slow motion. Finally, he threw his arras open, waving thera for sorae tirae.as if to scatter tfae blessing- with impartiality among the people. Some days subsequently to this, tfae duke of Hamil ton, Dn Moore, and some otfaer Englishmen, had the honour of being presented to the pope ; and though the ceremony of kissing the slipper of fais holiness would have been waved, from indulgence to the prejudices of the British nation, yet fais grace preferred going tfarougb the whole ceremony. From Rorae the travellers went towards Naples. After having left the city, they entered a spacious plain, and for several raUes faad in view numerous sepnlchral monuments, and the ruins of ancient aqueducts. Tfaey afterwards passed, for many miles tfarough a silent, de serted, and unwholesome country. The road there ex tended over craggy mountains, from some of which tfaey faad cfaarming views of tfae country toward tfae sea. About a mile from Velletri they saw the ruins of the palace of the Emperor Otho. The travellers passed through Terracina, formerly called Auxur, a small town on a plain sheltered by hills, and the principal church of wfaich was originally a temple of Jupiter.. They then went to Gaeta, a fortified town, built on the ruins of the ancient Formiae, aud near which Cicero had a villa : thence they" went to Capua. The country between Capua and Naples displayed a varied scene of lavish fertility. It might, says Dr. Moore, be named TRAVELS IN ITALY. 801 Campania Felix, if the richest and most generous soil, with the mUdest and most agreeable climate, were suffi cient to render the inhabitants ofa country happy. On the day after the travellers arrived in Naples, they waited on Sir William Harailton, his majesty's minister at that court. The situation of Naples was an extremely delightful one, near the sea-shore, at the bottom of an extensive bay, and in a country ornamented with the most beautiful foliage imaginable, and abound ing in vines, olive, mulberry, and orange trees. The houses of Naples in general were five or six stories high, and flat at the top. On them were placed great num bers of flower vases, or fruit-trees, in boxes of earth, which produced a very gay and agreeable effect. The number of inhabitants was estimated at this time to be about three hundred and fifty thousand. Though Naples was admirably situated for commerce, trade was in a very languishing condition, ''rhe streets were crowded with people ; but they seemed to have little other em- ployment.than to saunter about and converse there. In London and Paris, observes Dr. Moore, the usual noise heard in the streets is that of carriages ; but here the noise of carriages was completely drowned by the aggregated clack of human voices. ' Many of the poor est people, for want of habitations, were obliged to pass both the day and night in tfae streets. On the sea shore was a fashionable parade, called the Corso. Here the Neapolitan nobility and others appeared in great splendour. Their carriages were most richly decorated; and many of them were drawn by six, and some by eight horses. It was also customary to faave two running footmen, very gaily dressed, before each carriage, and three or four servants in rich liveries behind. Dr. Moore made several visits to the Mu^um at Portici, near Naples, principally to view the antiquities that faad been dug out of Herculaneum and Pompeia aud preserved there. He saw various ancient paintings, and numerous specimens of ancient sculpture, many 302 MOORES manuscripts, busts, utensils, and other articles. He remarks, that Herculaneum and Pompeia were two towns destroyed by, an eruption of Mount Vesuvius about seventeen faundred years ago. This eruption buried them in cinders, earth, and ashes; and, in sub- , sequent years, tfaey were covered with burning lava from the mountain. Pompeia was buried about twelve feet deep ; and when Dr. Moore was there, one street and a few detached buildings had been cleared. This street had been well paved. It did not appear so broad as tfae narrowest part of the Strand, in Loudon ; had narrow causeways, raised a foot and a half on eacfa side for the convenience of foot passengers ; and tfae traces of carriage-wfaeels were still distinctly to be seen on tfae pavement, Tfae faouses were small, tfae walls were covered witfa stucco, and some of tfaem were orua- mented with paintings. , The travellers made two visits to Mount Vesuvius; t.he celebrated volcano, about five ItaUan miles east of Naples. They proceeded, on mules to a considerable distance ; but were obUged to descend from tbe mules and walk when they arrived near the summit. T^e lava wliich had issued from, the mountain in 1 767 was still smoking, and in some places appeared of a glowing red colour. In otfaer places tfais lava was black and soUd ; but in passing over it, they found tfaat it still retaineda considerable- heat. In some parts a stream of liquid lava was even now seen in motion in the hollow. places beneath. The mountain, for near a week past, had been more turbulent than usual ; and, while the tra vellers were upon it, the explosions which took place- were of sufficient importance to satisfy, their curiosity to the utmost. Each was preceded by a noise like thunder within the mountain. A column of tfaick black smoke issued from tfae summit with great rapidity, fol lowed by a blaze of flame ; and immediately afterwards a shower of cinders and ashes, or red hot stones, were thrown, unto the sky. This was succeeded by a calm, of a few minutes, during which nothing issued but a, TRAVELS IN ITALY. 303: moderate quantity of smoke and flame, wliich gradually increased, and terminated in thunder and explosion as before. The travellers were conducted by the guides to a Uttle distance from the mouth or crater of tfae volcano, and were placed on the side from which the wind came, so tfaat they were not incommoded by the- smoke. Some of tfae company, faowever, made tfae cir cuit of tfae volcano ; and were at times in considerable danger of being wounded by the stones tfaat were thrown out. On tfae first Sunday in May, Dr. Moore, being tfaen resident in Naples, had an opportunity of seeing the famous Neapolitan miracle performed^ of tfae liquefac^ tion of . St. Januarius's blood. This saint, who is. considered the patron of Naples, is said, to have- suffered martyrdom about the end> of the third cen tury. When fae was beheaded, a pious lady of tfais city is believed to have caught about, an ounce of his. blood, wfaich has been carefully preserved i in a, bottle ever since. Tfae NeapoUtans say, that this blood,, whicfa has congealed and acquired a solidi form by age,, is no sooner brought, near the head of the saint, than, as a mart of veneration, it immediately liquefies. The experiment is made three different times every year, and is considered by the Neapolitans as a miracle of the first magnitude. The head and blood of tfae saint are both kept in a kind of press,' with folding doors of silver, in the cfaapel of St. Jauuarius, belonging to tfae catfaedral church of Naples. Tfae faead is not exposed to tfae, view of tfae public, but is. enclosed in a large silver bust, gilt and enriched, with jewels of great- value. The blood is kept in a small repository . by, itseJf. About mid-day the bust, enclosingi tbe< faead, was brougfat out with great solemnity, and placed under a kind of portico open on all sides. Innumerable proces sions paraded the streets ; ' the monks of each convent being m ustered under their own particular banner. These aU marched witfa great pomp, from their convents to the- pavUion, under wfaich the faead of St. Januarius was 304 moore's placed. Having made their obeisance to that great pro tector of their city, they returned. There were so many convents in Naples, that, before all the processions had passed, the evening was somewhat advanced- The grand procession 'commenced when Ihe others had finished. This was composed of a numerous body of clergy, and an immense multitude of people of ail ranks, beaded by the archbishop of Naples, who carried the phial containing the blood. Tiie duke of HamUton and Dr. ftloore accompanied Sir William Hamilton to a house directly opposite to the portico where the sacred head was placed. They fuund there a large assembly of Neapolitan nobility. A magnificent robe of velvet, richly embroidered, was thrown over the shoul ders of the bust; a raitre, refulgent witb jewels, was placed on its head. The arcbbisbop, witli a solemn pace, and a look full of awe and veneration, approached, holding forth the sacred phial, which contained the lump of blood. He addressed the saint in the humblest manner, fervently praying that fae would graciously condescend lo manifest his regard to his faithful vota ries by tfae usual token of causing that lump of his sacred blood to assume its natural and original form. In these prayers he was joined by the multitude around. The curiosity of Dr. Moore prompted him to leave tfae balcony and mingle witb the multitude. By degrees he got quite near the bust. Twenty minutes elapsed during wfaich the archbishop bad been praying with all possible earnestness, and turning the phial round and round without effect. An old monk stood near faim, and was at tfae utmost pains to instruct him how to handle, chafe, and rub the phial. He frequently took it into his own hands, but his manceuvres were as inef fectual as those of the aichbisfaop. By tfais tirae the people had becorae exceedingly noisy. The monk con tinued his operations w ith increased zeal ; and tfae archbishop was in a profuse perspiration. This was the first lirae he had officiated since his appointraent ta the see; and Dr. Moore says, lie never saw more evi- TRAVELS IN ITALY. 305 dent marks of vexation and alarm tfaan appeared in his countenance. An universal gloom had overspread the countenances of tfae surrounding multitude. They talked to eacfa otfaer in whispers, and seemed Oppressed with grief and contrition. Some of^ them became filled with rage and indignation at what they termed the saint's obstinacy. Tfaey put him in mind of the zeal with which he had been adored by all ranks of people in Naples ; of the faonours that had been confierred on him ; and that he was respected there more tfa^n in any otfaer place on earth ; some of thera even loaded him with abuse for his obstinacy. It was now almost dark ; and, when it was least expected, the signal was given that the miracle was performed. The populace filled the air with repeated shouts of joy ; 9 band of music began to play ; 'Te Deum was sung ; and couriers were dispatched lo the royal family with the glad tidings. Dr. Moore, faowever, was assured by a Roman Catholic, who had remained close by the archbishop till all was over, that the miracle had failed entirely; for the old monk, seeing no symptom of the blood liquifying, faad called out that the miracle had succeeded ; on which the signal had been given, the people had shouted, and the archbishop had held up the bottle, moving jt before the eyes of the spectators with such a rapid motion, that, in the dusk of the evening, the deception could not be observed. Dr. Moore went several times to visit the tomb of Virgil on the mountain of Pausilippo, not far distant from Naples. The ascent to it was by a narrow path, whicfa extended through a vineyard. The lomb itself was overgrown with ivy, and shaded by an ancient bay- tree. He notices Ihe objections of some antiquaries^ to this having been the burial-place of the Roman poet; but he says not only that tradition had fixed#on this spot, but that it had other strong evidence in its favour. ' The Grotto of Pausilippo (a little below the tomb) was a subterraneous passage through the mountain, near a mile in length, about twenty feet broad, and 306 moore's tbirty or forty feet faigh, every whesed two hoiirs every forenoon in the famous Floren tine gallery, and that he was much deligfated-witfa the beauties of this celebrated collection. He saw here many noble specimens, both of ancient and modem sculpture; and -paintings by the best masters ; besides innumerable curiosities of other kinds. To attempt a description of this gallery, and the objects it contains, or of the churches, palisces, and other public buildings of Florence, would lead to tfae occupation of mucfa too great a portion of this narrative, it is, however, requi site to mention the Palazzo Pitti, in which the Great Diike resided, and which was situated on the opposite side of the Arno from the gallery. It had been built about Ihe middle of the fifteentii century by a wealthy Florentine merchant, after whom it was named," and who was ruined by the enormous expen.se. After this it was purchased by the Medici family, who greatly en larged it ; and it has since continued in their possession. The furniture was highly oruaniented and curious ; and many of the apartments were rich in paintings. After leaving Florence the travellers found the road leading towards Bologna very agreeable for a post or , two ; but tfae rest of it extended over the sandy Apen nines. At Bologna the travellers remained a few days. Thence they, proceeded to Parma, a beautiful town of considerable size, and defended by a citadel and .regular fortifications. Frora Parma the road extended over a continued plain, among meadows and corn-fields, di vided by rows of trees, the branches of which were adorned by vines hanging in beautiful festoons. Pla centia, notwithstanding tfae fertility of the country "around it, was itself a thinly inhabited tcfwn, and seemed in a state of decay. Except the ducal palace, and some pictures in the churches, there was little in it deserving of attention. The travellers next arrived at Milan, the ancient capital of.Lombardy, and the largest city in Italy ex- 310 moore's cept Rorae. The cathedral stood in tfce centre of 4he place, and in size was inferior only to St. Peter's. It oUght indeed by this time to' have been the lairgest in the world, if wfaat the infaabitants related was true, that it had been begun nearly four hundred years before; and that, ever since, tfaere faad been a considerable num ber of workmen daily employed in completing it. Per faaps no cfaurcfa in Christendom was so much loaded with ornament as this. The number of statues witiiin and without was prodigious : they were all of marble, and many of tfaem were finely wrought The building itsdf was of white marble, and was supported by fifty colurans, each about eighty-four feet faigfa. From the roof hung a case formed of crystal, surrounded by rays of gilt metal, and enclosing a nail, said to faave been one of tfaose by which our Saviour was nailed to tfae cross. Tfae trea sury of tfais cfaurcfa, after tfaat of Loretto, was esteemed tfae ricfaest in Italy. It contained jewels, relics, and curiosities of various kinds. The Ambrosian library, in Milan, is sedd to ha-ve been one of the most valuable collections of books and manuscripts in Europe. It was open a certain number of faours every day ; and there were accommodations for. persons who came to read or make extracts. In the museura adjoining to tbe library was a considerable number of pictures, and many natural curiosities. The travellers left Milan at midnight, and arrived the next evening at Turin, the capital of tfae kingdom of Sardinia. All the approaches to this city were magni ficent. It was situated at tfae foot of the Alps, in a fine plain, watered by the river Po. Most of the streets were well built, uniform, clean, straight, and terminating on some agreeable object Tbe four gates were higlify ornamental, and tfaere could not be a more agreeable walk than that around tfae ramparts. The fortifications were regular, and in good repair ; and the citadel was esteemed one oT the strongest in Europe. The duke of Hamilton now became impatient to reach England. He consequently staid only two days in Turin. Proceeding thence he arrived, not long after- travels in ITALY. 311 wards, at Novaleeza, a village at the foot of Mount Cenis. Herethe carriages were taken to pieces, and were delivered into tfae care of muleteers, to be con veyed to Lanebourg ; and the travellers rode up the mountain on mules. As soon as tbey arrived on the north side of the mountain they dismissed the mules, and were carried in a kind of chairs 'to tfae bottom. Here the carriages were again put togetfaer, and the travellers proceeded on their journey in them. Passing Chamberry and Geneva, they entered tfae French territory from the canton of Berne ; and tfaey proceeded tfarougfa tfaat country witfaout delay to Eng land. Edmund. I know not, Louisa, how you can style your account a narrative of travels in France, Switzer land, and Germany. It contains no description what ever of Paris ; and the only account of France is com prised in a short sketch of the town of Lyons. Louisa. I adopted the title of the author, wfao, it must be confessed, has described the French nation in a very superficial manner. Almost immediately after he has spoken of Lyons we find- him giving an account of himself and the duke of Hamilton at, Geneva. I sup pose he considered that France had been sufficiently described by other traveUers. . Edmund. If so> fae ought only to faave entitled his - work " Travels in Switzerland and Germany." - Frederic. Of Geneva Dr. Moore states, that when he was tfaere tfae citizens enjoyed freedom untainted witfa licentiousness, and security unbought by the horrors of war. Since that time Geneva,- in common wit^ otfaer cities of tfae continent, suffered from tfae French revolu tion. In April, 1798, it was occupied by the revolutionary troops ; its independence was destroyed, and it was in corporated with the French empire. But tfae restoration of European independence in 1814, by tfae overtfarow of the colossal power of France, restored to this city its ancient government and laws. 812 TRAVELLERS. Maria. Louisa has mentioned a custom, at Basil, of keeping the clocks one hour in advance : wfaat can have been the origin of so extraordinary a custom? Sir Charles. Various accounts of it faave been given ;- but tfae most popular story is, that, about four hundred years ago, the city was threatened with an assault by surprise. The enemy was to begin their attack when the clock of the tower at one end of the bridge should strike one after midnight. The artist who had the care of the clock, being informed that this was the ex pected signal, caused the clock to be altered, and it struck two instead of one; so the enemy, thinking tfaey were an faour too late, gave up the attempt. In com memoration of this dehverance, all tfae clocks in Basil faave since been made to strike two at one' o'clock; and so pt all the other hours. Frederic. And, lest this account of the matter sfaould not be satisfactory, the inhabitants, by way of confirma tion, show a head, which is placed near the patriotic clock; its face. is turned toward the road, by whicfa the eheray was to have entered. This bead is said to loll out its tongue every rainute, in the most insidting man ner imaginable ; and to have been a piece of mechanical wit of the clockmaker who saved the town. He is be lieved to have framed it in derision of the eneray whom he had so dexterously deceived. By tfae care of the magistrates, who have thought so excellent a joke could not be too often repeated, it has been repaired, renewed, and enabled to thrust out its tongue every minute for the last four hundred years. Maria. I am glad I inquired respecting these clocks; if I had not done so I should have lost this entertain ing story. Will you now tell lue what is the golden bull, which, Louisa has said, all strangers were ex pected to see in the town-house at Frankfort ? I can not tell what she means by it, for she speaks of this golden bull being a manuscript. Mr. Allen. You appear to have perplexed yourself by imagining that this bull must have been tfae figure MOORE. 313 of an animal wrought in gold ; whereas the buU that Dr. Moore mentions, is but a manuscript written upon veUum, with a seal of gold. A bull of this description is an instrument issued by the see of Rome, and if has its name from the Latin word bulla, which signifies a pendant seal. The seals of these instrumcuts are gene rally of lead; but they are sometimes of wax, silver, or-gold; and are suspended from the bottom of the writing. Lady Irwin. It is several years since I read Dr. Moore's travels, but I recollect that he gives some ac count of Voltaire. This Louisa has entirely omitted. Louisa. I was compelled to do so, in order to shorten my narrative. For the same reason I was obliged con siderably to abridge the account that he has inserted respecting the king of Prussia, though, I think, I faave noted down every incident that was of much importance. Maria. I wish you would inform rae what was tfae annual ceremony of the doge of Venice espousing the -4driatic Sea. Sir Charles. The doge was the chief magistrate of the republic of Venice ; and the ceremoey to wliich you allude took place every year on Ascension Day. The doge, going on board fais bucentaur, or state barge, and accompanied by numerous other vessels, and all the senators dressed in their robes, proceeded to a certain spot about two miles distaut from Venice. Here they all stopped, and the doge, rising from his chair of state, went to the side of the vessel, and throwing a ring into the sea, said, in Latin, " We espouse thee, O sea, as a token of our perpetual dominion over thee." All the vessels were gaily decoiated, music was played; and, after the ceremony was ended, the whole fleet fired their guns. The intention of it was to perpetuate the title which the republic of Venice claimed of the doniiuion over this sea. This ceremony was first intermittedTin the year 1797- Venice is now subject to the emperor of Austria. Edmund. I think I have read that the four bronze Trav. p 314 TRAVELLERS. horses of Lycippus, wfaich. Dr. Moore says, were upon one of the gates of St. Mark's churcfa at Venice, were originally designed to faave been attached to a chariot of the sun ; and that they were given by Tiridates, king of' Armenia, to the emperor Nero, who placed tfaem on tfae triumphal arch at Rome w hicfa was consecrated to him. Mr. Allen. Tfaey were so : but tfaey were conveyed from Rome to Constantinople, by Constantine. At Constantinople they remained till the beginning of tfae tfairteenth century ; and on tfae taking of tfaat city by the French and Venetians, tfaey were removed to Ve nice. Frederic, After tfae conquest of Italy by tfae Frencfa, ab6ut twenty years ago, these faorses, witfa innumerable otber.monunients of antiquity, and many valuable spe cimens of modern art, botfa of sculpture and painting, were conveyed to Paris. But since ifae late defeat of tfae Frencfa, tbey have been restored to tfae Venetians. Louisa. The Frencfa must faave obtained mucfa valu able plunder in Italy. Tfae Chapel of Loretto, no doubt, afforded tfaem some very important treasures. Sir Charles. Tfaey knew how to apply tfae reUcs wfaicfa faad been there deposited to tfaeir proper uses : but it is a matter of considerable doubt whetfaer every tfaing tfaat was most estimable had not been removed previ ously to the arrival of the French army into tfaat part of Italy. Lady Irwin. In tfae Arch of Titus at Rome, wfaicfa contains representations, in bas-relief, of various articles tfaat were taken by tfaat emperor frora Jerusalem, we have an important existing evidence of the destruction of Jerusalem, and of the period at which it took place. And, as far as this event was connected with the pre dictions of Jesus Christ, an additional evidence, if sucfa were wanting, of tfae trutfa of tfae Christian religion. Mr. Allen. A singular circumstance is related con cerning tfais arcfa : tfae quarter that is allotted for tfae residence of the Jews in Rome, is not at a great dis- MOORE. 315 tance from it ; when Dr. Moore was in Rorae about nine tfaousand Jews, tfae lineal descendants of those wfao were brought captive by Titus from Jerusalem, resided there; and fae was assured that these Jews always cautiously avoided passing through the arcfa, tfaougfa it lay directly in tfaeir way to the place where they trans acted business, aud that to avoid it tfaey faad to make a considerable circuit. Sir Charles, There is such convincing evidence of the trutfa and divine origin of Cfaristianity, tfaat I am astonished any additional evidence should now be re quired; yet many of the Roman Catholics, even pf tbe present day, seem to consider additional evidence to be necessary. Louisa. You allude, I presume, to the miracles tfaat tbe Romish priests pretend to work. Sir Charles. I do so; and particularly to tfaat wfaicfa you have this evening recited, of liquifying the pre tended blood of St. Januarius. Edmund. If this apparent miracle be a trick, is it known in what tbe trick consists ? Sir Charles. No one has yet satisfactorily explained it. Some persons assert, that the red substance in Ihe bottle is something really solid, which melts with a sUgfat de gree of heat, such as may be produced by rubbing tu warm hands, or by breathing upon it. Mr. Allen. Dr. Moore says, that he was unable to explain on what principle the liquefaction depended ; but he was convinced that it must be something dif ferent frora this. He relates, that persons, whose authority he could not doubt, had sometimes known it to be found iu a liquid slate in cold weather, before it was touched by the priests ; and that, on other occasions, it had remained solid notwithstanding all the efforts of the priests to dissolve it. Ueoce, he says, there is reason to believe, that, whatever may have been the case wfaen tfae miracle (as it is called) was first exhi bited, tbe principle on wfaich it depeuds faas been lost, p2 316 TRAVELLERS. and is not now understood fuUy even by the priests themselves; or that they are not so expert as they formerly were in liquefying it at tfae instant it is re quired. Lady Irwin, These pretended miracles of tfae cfaurch of Rorae must be extremely disgusting to all persons of comraon sense, and to most of those even who adfaere to •tfae tenets of tfae Romisfa faitfa. Mr, Allen. There can be little doubt but they faave been tfae cause of many persons in Roman Catfaolic countries becoming deists. These, not troubling tfaem selves lo inquire into tfae evidences of tfae Christian religion, faave imagined, from the pious frauds wfaich they every day saw practised, that the, whole was a system of priestcraft. They have witnessed the fraud, and, notwithstanding the importance of the subject, have not had the candour to ascertain any tfaing be yond it. Maria. Are tfae travels of Dr. Moore in France and Italy one or two works 1 , Louisa. Two : One of tfaem is entitled " A View of Societyand Manners in France, Switzerland, and Ger many ;" and the other " A View of Society and Man ners in Italy." No dates appear to either of tbe works; but Dr.' Moore is known to have been on tbe continent betwixt the years 1773 and 1778. Maria. What is related concerning him after his re turn to England 1 Louisa. That he went to London, with an intention of practising there as a physician. Edmund. But, after having passed so great a portion of his life in Scotland and on the continent, he could not expect, Without considerable patience, to attain an extensive" practice in London; nor, indeed, was he much consulted, except by his own particular friends. Frederic. And yet, in his travels in Italy, he seeras to have been desirous of recommending himself to the notice of the public in his medical capacity, by tfae in- MOORE. 317 sertion ofa long and tedious treatise.on pulmonary con sumption ; a treatise which was quite unconnected with the subject of his travels. Sir Charles. And, with a further view to practice, he pubUshed, in 1785, fais " Medical Sketches," a work that was favourably received, but made no great alteration in his professional engagements. He subse quently published a novel, called " Zeluco," whicfa abounds witfa many interesting events, arising frora un- controled passion on the part of a darling son, and un conditional compliance on that of a fond mother. This novel attained considerable popularity. Mr. Allen. At the commencement of the French re volution Dr. Moore was resident in Paris. He witnessed many of the important scenes of the eventful year 1792 ; but the numerous massacres which took place rendered a continuance in Paris so disgusting to faim, that he re turned to England. In 1795 he published " A View of the Causes and Progress of the French Revolution." Frederic. He afterwards published a novel, called " Edward," and a kind of novel, entitled " Mordaunt ; or, Sketches of Life, Characters, and Manners, in vari ous Countries." Louisa. After bis last return from France, Dr. Moore resided in Clifford-street, London, where he died on the 20th of February, 1802, in the seventy-second year of his age, leaving one daughter and five sons. Sir Charles. He was a man cf much general know ledge ; but he does not appear to have excelled in any particular branch of science. After he had commenced his travels as tutor, he assumed the character of a raan of wit and humour. Mr. Allen. Many valuable qualities are requisite to form an accomplished traveller ; a comprehensive know ledge of men and manners, an accurate discrimination of character, and the rare talent of patient observation, combined with a happy pliancy of temper, that can adapt itself to allthe various forms of life. The travels -of Dr. Moore are distinguished by several of these qualities ; and exhibit considerable industry, candour, 318 TRAVELLERS. and discernment They were at one tirae very popular, on account of the spriglitliuess of tbe narrative, and the frequent recurrence of scenes of dry humour which they contain; but they do not contain any great depth of remark; and, in a few instances, religious subjects are treated with loo much levity, though not, appa rently, with any design to injure the cause of religion. SEVENTEENTH EVENING. Frederic. Edmund and I have, for. several days, been anxiously searching for some travels in Spain, a country respecting which we had previously obtained but little information ; and at length we have found two volumes of travels tfarough that country in the years 1775 aud 1776, by Henry Swinburne, Esq. Of these I have prepared an abstract, to be read this evening. VVc faave also discovered a sfaort memoir of the author. Louisa. I have often heard of these travels; and faave lately read a very favourable account of them : but who was Mr. Swinburne ? Edmund. He was tfae youngest son of Sir John Swinburne, baronet, of Capheaton, in Northumberland. His family were Roman Catholics ; and fais ancestors had long resided at this tfaeir family seat. Louisa. Where was Mr. Swinburne educated 1 Edmund, At Scorton, in Yorkshire. He afterwards studied at Paris, Bourdeaux, and iu tfae royal academy at Turin. Frederic, Wfaen fae married, fae travelled on, in com pany witfa his lady, tfae continent, with tfae intention of gratifying his taste for antiquities and tfae fine arts. He subsequently spent six years in France, Spain, Italy, and Germany; formed an intimacy with several of the most eminent literary characters of those countries, and received sorae signal marks of esteera from the sovereigns of the dift'erent courts that fae visited. SWINBURNE. 319 Louisa, Then, I presume, he published au account of travels in otfaer countries besides Spain. Frederic. Yes, in Italy and Sicily. As to France, that kingdom had been visited and described so often before his time, Ihat, be says, he entertained little hope of being able to collect any new materials for entertain ment or instruction, and tiierefore he omitted to de scribe it. Mr. Allen. Previously to the publication of Mr. Swinburne's travels in Spain, the accounts which had been printed relative to that country were either old and obsolete, and consequently in many respects unfit to convey a proper idea of its present state ; or they were only relations of a passage through particular pro vinces, where the authors had possessed neither time nor opportunity to procure much accurate information. Frederic being now desired to read his narrative, pro ceeded as foUows : Narrative of Mr. Swinburne's Travels in Spain, In company with two other English gentiemen aud their servants Mr. Swinburne entered Spain, from Perpignan, on the 24th of October, 1775, In consequence of a great scarcity of mules, tfae principal beasts of burden in tfais country, tfaey were obliged to join in a cavalcade of two Italian rope-dancers, and some other persons tra veUing to a Spanish fair. Mr. Swinburne says, that the van guard was formed by a drummer and a man with a tabor and pipe ; and that the rear was brought up by a camel loaded with five monkies, escorted by two men who carried fais portrait. The road- which crossed the Pyrenees (the chain of mountains tfaat separate France frora Spain) was a noble work, and reflected the greatest honour on the engineer who planned it. Exactiy on the limits of France, in the faigfaest part of tbe pass, stood the fort of Belle- garde; faere an officer of invalids was stationed, who examined and signed tfae passports. At La Junquiera, 320 SWINBURNE'S the first Spanish to lest they should destroy theraselves. As Mr. Swiuburne was lool^ing at them, a dirty little keeper struck a tall Moor over the head, for leaving his pump only a few moments. The mussulman darted a look of indigna tion at his tyrant, and resumed his task, without saying a word, or shrinking frora the blow. On the travellers leaving this house of sorrow they met several strings of galley slaves going to relieve those at work, or to carry them provisions. The Moors had an M marked V)n the sackcloth that covered thera, and the whole gang were lively pictures of malady and despair. The port of Carthagena was one of the completest that Mr. Swinburne had ever seen. The city was large. 334 SWINBURNE'S but had few good streets, and still fewer grand or remarkable buildings. Scarcely any place, says tfais gentleman, can be imagined more dull than this. There was, indeed, a theatre ; but on the usual days tfaere were no scenes : the actors merely came out from be hind a bit of red curtain faung across tfae stage, and did not move far from if, as a file of prompters, whose sha dows and motions were plainly perceptible tfarough the curtains, were drawn up behind in order to assist them. On leaving Carthagena tbe travellers directed their course towards Grenada, and on the ro'dd passed through Lorca and Guadix. The latter was a little city, encom passed by clay hiUs of a most extraordinary nature. They were very high, and were wasfaed into broken masses, resembling spires, towers, and missfaapen rocks. Whole villages had been dug in them, the windows of which appeared like so many pigeon-holes. The pas sage tfarougfa tfaese faills was very remarkable: it ex tended for half a mile between two huge rugged walls of solid clay. Beyond Guadix Ihe travellers carae to a road, wfaich for badness was perhaps not to be nlatcfaed by any carriage-road in the world ; and Mr. Swinburne re marks, that neither the beauties of nature nor those of art, which are to be raet with in Spain, can be deemed an equivalent for the tediousness of traveUing, the bad ness of the roads, or the abominable accommodatious of the inns. He says, that no person ever undertook this tour a second time for pleasure ; and that, if his advice were listened to, no one would attempt it. Tfaey arrived at Grenada on Christmas Day ; and tfaough it was now midwinter, tfae view of the plain and city was beautiful beyond expression. Grenada was situated on two hills at the foot of the mountains called Sierra Nevada, wfaere two small rivers joined their waters. Oue of these, as Mr. Swinburne was in formed, sometiraes washed from the raountains gold, and tiie other silver. On the summit of one of the hills stood the ancient palace, or fortress, called the TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 335 Alhambra, formerly the residence of the Mahometan monarcfas of Grenada ; for this part of Spain was an ciently invaded aud taken possession of by the Moors, who continued to occupy it for nearly three centuries. The Alhambra was so elevated tfaat it overlooked tfae whole city ; and tfae prospect from it was surprisingly grand. Along the bank of one of the rivers was a pleasant walk, with avenues of trees ; and an bill beyond tfae avenues was ornamented with orange-groves, and cy press trees, and interspersed with groups of faouses, whicfa faad a very pleasing appearance. Tfae environs of Grenada were cfaarming even in December ; and in summer, Mr. Swuiburue was told, that the air was always refreshing, and was constantly perfumed by sweets wafted by the breezes frora gardens that lie scattered over the declivities of tfae adjacent faills. The streets of the town, however, were narrow and dirty; and the lanes aud allies were absolutely filthy. The market-place was spacious, but its buildings were extremely ugly. From top to bottom they seeraed to be nothing but rows of large windows, divided by nar row pilasters of brick. Apart frora these were tfae shambles. It was the custom of Grenada to have aU the meat weighed in the presence of a committee of magistrates before the buyer could be suffered to carry home bis purcfaase. One of Mr. Swinburne's servants was faurried to jail from ignorance of tfais regulation. An alguazil, or officer of justice, coming behind him, seized his basket. This abrupt mode of procedure was repulsed by a violent blow on the face with a shoulder of mutton, which brought the Spaniard to the ground. The servant was marching off" triumphant, when the pride of victory getting tfae better of fais prudence, fae suffered himself to be surprised -by a detachraent of alguazils, who lodged him in prison. Here he conti nued till a gentleman, an acquaintance of Mr. Swin burne, waited upon the magistrates, and procured fais release. 336 SWINBURNE'S The outsides of the churcfaes in Grenada were painted in a theatrical taste, and their insides were set off witfa a profusion of raarbles, dug from tfae adjacent moun tains. The cathedral, which the infaabitants considered a peculiarly fine building, was an assemblage of tfaree different churches. There were in Grenada not fewer than a thousand able-bodied men, who subsisted entirely by alms, and on the donations of the different convents. One morn ing Mr. Swinburne saw a whole regiment of them draw ing off, in great order, from the gate of the Carthusian monastery, where they faad been to receive each a luncheon of bread, and a platter of pease-porridge. Many of thera afterwards adjourned to a shop, where several persons were playing publicly at dice. The travellers went to the tfaeatre ; and tfaey found it so ill lighted that the striking of fire with flints and steels, by men preparing to smoke, or smoking, was so quick, that it looked almost like soldiers going through their military exercise. The performances on tfae stage were excessively absurd. On the 2d of January, 1 776, Mr. Swinburne and fais friends set out from Grenada towards Lqja, a large town on the river Xenil. They tiience proceeded, through Antequera, to Malaga. Near Malaga the road extended through numerous vineyards and plantations of almond trees. 'The latter were at this time white with blossoms ; and the hedges were full of periwinkle, myrtle, marigold, oleander, cistus, aj^d woodbines, all in full flower. The perfume of the orange trees was very powerful, near every villa around Malaga; and, 'tlioiigh it was now the -beginning of January, tfae tra vellers observed, in a farmer's yard, a large bush of yellow roses. Malaga, a city celebrated for a considerable export trade in wine and raisins, stood on the corner ofa plain near the sea-shore. Its coufined situation (for it was hemmed in on Ihe land-side by mountains) rendered it intolerably hot for eight montfas in tfae year. 'Tfae TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 337 streets in general were narrow ; but some of the squares were of good size. Tfae, only remarkable building it contained was the cathe;dr{kl. One evening, whilst fae was in Malaga, Mr. Swinburne . went to the Italian opera. In the middle of a song all tbe actors and the audience suddenly dropped upon their knees at the sound of a bell, by which they knew that the host was passing by. A fe'w minutes after wards tfaey rose, and tfae actor resumed fais sOng. Mr. Swinburne remarks, that the peasantry of tfais part of Spain seemed very poor, and were extremely frugal in tfaeir diet. Bread steeped in oil, and occa sionally seasoned witb vinegar, was the common food of the country people, in tfae wfaole district frora Barcelona to Malaga: a bunch of grapes, or a slice of melon, served tfaem as a desert. After a few days residence in Malaga, the travellers letaTBed to Antequera; and, proceeding thence towards Cadiz, they passed a filtfay town called Ossuna. Here they found themselves in the country 6f large white hats; for few of tfae men wore any otfaer. On tfae ensuing day they reacfaed Xeres. This was a .town of considerable size, with winding streets, and horrible kennels of black and stagnant water, the stench of which was almost suffocating. Tfae-hiUs around, tfae ' town were pretty, and tfae views towards Cadiz were pleasing. Some writers faave imagined tfaat tfae Elysian fields of the ancient poets were in this. neighbourhood, and faave pretended that the river Guadalete was the Leth6, or river of oblivion. It is, however, evident that these writers could never have seen the place, or that it must have undergone strange alterations since their days ; for this reputed paradise was now an iraraense marshy flat, through wfaicfa a narrow river, much reserabHng; the wide ditches in tfae Lincolnshire fens, wound its course to the sea ; and not a stick of wood was to be seen near it. Ou the 14th of January tbe travellers arrived at Teav, q 838 SWINBURNE'S Cadiz. In their approach to tfais place, the appear ance of tfae bay, the shipping, and the city stretching into tfae ocean, formed one of tfae most beautiful scenes that can be imagined. Cadiz occupied the whole surface of tfae western extremity of the Isle of Leon. From the city a long and narrow istfamus connected it witfa another, broader, part of the island; and this faad a communication witfa tfae continent by an ancient bridge tfarown over a deep cfaannel or river. A strong line of works defended tfae city from all ap proacfaes along tfae istfamus. All the streets, except one, were narrow, and ill-paved, and so filthy as to' emit tfae most putrid effluvia. The swarms of rats tfaat, in the night, ran about the streets, were innumerable : whole droves of tfaem passed and repassed continually ; and tfaese, tfaeir midnigfat revels, were extremely trouble some to sucfa persons as walked out late. Tfae houses were lofty, witfa a vestibule to eacfa ; and tfais, being left open till nigfat, was generaUy rendered by tfae passengers exceedingly offensive. In the middle of each- faouse was a court, under wfaich was generally a cistern, the breeding place of gnats and mosquitoes. Tfae ground-floors were warefaouses : in tfae first story was the counting-house or kitchen; and the principal apartments were up two pair of stairs. The roofs were flat, and usually faad a turret for tfae purpose of com manding a view of tfae sea. Round the parapet-waU, at the tops of tfae faouses, were rows of square pillars ; the most common use of which was to fasten ropes to for drying linen upon. Tfae square of St. Antonio was large, and tolerably handsome ; and there was a public walk near the sea shore. Near the sfaore was also a wooden circus, in wfaicfa bull-feasts were exbibited. The catfaedi;al, a work of great expense, had been begun about fifty years before Mr. Swinburne was here; and was not yet finished. The outer casings were to be of white marble, and the bars of the windows of bronze. Cadiz was at this time an important place for com- TRAVELS IN SPAIN. .139 merce, and particularly for the commerce between Spain and South America. The regulations of the police were worse in tfais city tfaan perfaaps in any place of Europe. Street robberies and faouse-breakiilgs were frequent, and no effectual steps were taken to pre vent tfaera. The water in the island of Leon was so bad, that what most families drank was brought from Port St. Mary. The chief amusements of Cadiz were a Spanish play, wfaicfa began about four o'clock; an Italian opera, whicfa began about seven; and a French play, wfaicfa commenced ratfaer earlier. About the end of February the travellers set out for Gibraltar, taking with tfaem tfaeir beds and provisions, a precaution of considerable importance in tfais journey. After leaving the isle of Leon, they crossed a flat marshy country, intersected by numberless drains and ponds for making salt They next ascended some faills, and after wards crossed an immense expanse of heath, speckled with an almost incredible variety of flowers; among others with a small red and yellow kind of tulips, and many beautiful species of orchis. Along several parts of the road the hedges on each side were tfaicbly set with laurustinus, now in flower. The traveUers passed many deUgfatfiil orcfaards, gardens, and orange groves. After Imving been thirteen faours on horseback, with a drizzling rain half the time, they were glad to pass the nigfat at a village on tfae road, in tfae cabin of a retaUer of tobacco. Tfais miserable dweUing consisted only of one room, not well enough thatcfaed to prevent the rain from beating through, and yet too close to let out the smoke of a fow sticks burning in the middle. The owner of the cabin, his wife, and children, occupied one end; and tfae remainder of tfae apartment was given up to tfae travellers, who were now seven in num ber, and were thus squeezed into tbe space 'x>f a few feet square. Tbe smoke became so offensive, and tfae company were so mucfa straitened for room, that, after supper, Mr. Swinburne retired across a kind of yard, to a manger in tbe stable, where, wrapping himself in 22 340 SWINBURNE'S fais cloak, fae tfarew faimself on tfae straw, and had a Very comfortable liap till day-break, when they resumed tfaeir journey. Tfaey arrived tfae next day at tfae Spanish lines, across the isthmus, at tfae extreraity of whicfa was tfae rock of Gibraltar. These Lines were a fortification whicfa sepa rated Gibraltar from Spain : tfaey were at tfae distance of about half an hour's ride frora the land-gate of the English garrison ; and had, at each end, a fort. Tbe traveUers passed the Lines, and proceeded to Gibraltar. Here the bustle of a nuraerous population, tfae mili tary music and parade, the fine appearance of the troops, tfae variety of languages spoken, and of dresses worn, and tfae very remarkable appearance of the rock, the fortifications and tfae town, ' were all surprising objects to persons wfao faad long been travelling tfarougfa the still wastes and tfae silent and stupid towns of Spain, wfaere every object around bore the marks of languor and ' indolence. The travellers were at first quite con fused by the incessant motion in the garrison, tfae per petual noise of cannon, aud tfae voUies of the soldiers going through their firing exercise. It seemed strange, after so quick a transition, to hear tfaeir native language spoken in tfae streets, to read it under tfae signs, and to meet so many Englisfa faces. Mr. Swinburne says, fae should have forgotten faow far distant fae was from horae, had he not been reminded of the latitude- by the brilliant clearness of tfae deep blue sky, and the sigfat of tfae snowy topped mountains of Africa. It had been the intention of the traveUers, if possible, to cross the Strait of Gibraltar to Tangier. But the wind was unfavourable ; and in tbe course of a few days they returned, nearly by their former route, to Cadiz. This place they left on tfae 3d of April ; and, lauding at Port St. Mary, proceeded by Xeres to Seville, the- capital of the province of Andaltisia. This place appeared to great advantage from the faills at tfae distance of a couple of miles. Round the city was a great plain of corn-lands, pastures, and gardens. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 341 In the -afternoon the travellers strolled tfarough the streets, and by chance were directed to tfae gardens of the royal palace. These consisted of several parterres, surrounded with galleries and terraces, intersected by hedges of myrtle ; and the odours that were exhaled from the orange, citron, and lemon trees, were exquisite. The palace itself had been constructed iu imitation of the ancient Moorish style of architecture. At a little distance from Seville Mr. Swinburne visited some ruins, which were believed to have been those of Italica, where Trajan, Hadrian, and Theodosius the Great, are represented to have been born. SeviUe is supposed to have been founded by the Phoenicians: it was afterwards inhabited by the Ro mans ; and subsequently by the Moors. Its sfaape was circular ; and the walls seemed to have been either of Moorish construction, or to have been constructed in the ages which immediately followed the dissolution of the Saracen empire. 'The streets of Seville were crooked, dirty, and so narrow, that, in raost of thera, two car riages could scarcely pass each otfaer. Most of tfae churches faad been built and ornamented in so barba rous a style, that Mr. Swinburne scarcely had patience to examine them. Tfae cathedral, however, was a fine gothic edifice. It faad eighty altars, at whicfa five faun dred masses were said every day. Near Seville was a great aqueduct, wfaicfa, by the Sevillian historians, is esteemed one of the most extra- , ordinary monuments of antiquity existing; but Mr. Swinburne was mucfa disappointed to find none of tfaat beauty nor grandeur which he had been led to expect. There was a tobacco and snuff manufactory in tfais city on so extensive a scale, that one thousand mdn were constantly employed in it; and one hundred and eighty mules worked twenty eight mills, or machines, fgr grind ing and mixing the tobacco witfa a kind of red earth witfa whicfa tfae snuff was adulterated. From Seville tfae travellers proceeded on the ll.tli of April to Carmona. Tfae road extended through a per; 342 SWINBURNE'S feet forest of olive trees, which were set at the iBgiilar distance of twenty-seven feet from eacfa other. From Carmona tfaey went by Ecija to Cordova. The coun try, in the approach to Cordova, was destitute of trees, hilly, and arable ; but the view of tfae river, city, and woods, on the opposite hills, was extremely agreeable and picturesque. The, immediate environs of Cordova were delightful, and were adorned with a rich variety of woods, rising grounds, and cultivated land, Olives and corn were produced in great abundance ;- and tfae farm-houses were situated in tfae midst of inclosures, and orchards of orange trees. Tfae river Guadalquiver ran near tfap town, and was crossed by a bridge of sixteen arches, defended by a large Moorish tower. Near the end of tfae bridge stood an ancient mosque, now tfae cathedral. It was four hundred and twenty feet in breadth, and five faundred and ten feet long ; and the ancient writings describe the roof to have been supported by nearly a thousand columns, forming nine teen aisles from east to westi and twenty-nine from north to south. The same writings state, tfaat the prin cipal entrance had its folding doors covered with plates of gold ; and that upon the highest cupola were tfaree golden balls, wfaich supported a pomegranate and a fleur-de-lis of gold. When Mr. Swinburne saw tfais buUding, tfae exterior walls were plain, and not very high. Seventeen gates afforded admission into, the churcfa and cloister. The latter was a large oblong court, environed on three sides by colurans ; and having in tfae middle tfaree copious fountains, witfa groves of orange trees, and some towering cypresses and palms, wfaich formed a delightful retreat in the sultry hours of tfae day. Notfaing, says tfais gentleman, can be more striking tfaan tfae first step into tfais singular edifice. To acquire some idea of it you must represent to your self a vast and gloomy labyrintfa. It is divided into seventeen aisles, each about twenty feet wide, by ro.ws of columns of various coloured marble. These, how- TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 343 ever, are not all of tfae same faeigfat; for tfae Arabs, having taken them from Roman buildings, added mon strous capitals and thick bases to tfaose that were too short; and those that were too long had tfaeir bases chopped off, and a diminutive. sfaallow capital placed on their head. Mr. Swinburne says, that he caunot imagine any view more extraordinary than tfaat wfaich a spectator has wfaen placed in sucfa parts of tfae cfaurch as afford a clear reacfa down tfae aisles, at right angles, uninterrupted by chapels and modern erections. Equally wonderful, he observes, is the appearance, when a per son looks from tfae points tfaat give him a view of all tfae rows of pillars and arcfaes in au oblique line : it is a most puzzling scene of confusion. People walkmg through this chaos of pillars seem to answer- the romantic ideas of magic, enchanted knights, or discontented wandering spirits. Tfae streets of Cordova were crooked and dirty; and few, eitfaer of the private or public buildings, were conspicuous for exceUence of architecture. In, this place and its neighbourhood, tfae nobility lived in a^ manner more splendid than in most otfaer parts of Spain. They had faandsome Englisfa and Frencfa carriages, smart liveries, and exceUent horses. On tfae 18th of April the travellers departed from Cordova, in their journey towards Madrid. At a little distance from Miranda, being now fairly entered into Don Quixote's own country, and while they were amusing themselves witfa Quixotic reveries, tfae sound of a guitar suddenly struck their ears. At a turn of the road, close by a sweet murmuring brook, tfaey ob served about a dozen well dressed, men, and as many smart faandsome damsels, dancing upon a platform of level stones. Sucfa females as were not dancing were seated under the woods, on a natural amphitheatre of rocks. The principal men came politely to the travellers, and invited them to partake of the amusement ; while a very pretty girl presented them with sweetmeats and sugar-plums. A jolly friar seemed to do the honours 344 SWINBURNE'S of the f^te champ^tre. Tfae travellers continued sorae time with this happy crew ; and were earnesdy invited to accompany them home and pass tfae night in the adjacent village. But it began to rain, and they were obliged to decline tfae offer. After tfaey faad parted witfa tfaese new friends, tfaey heard their music and jovial shouts re-echo by the rocks almost the whole way to Miranda. Tfae travellers slept at Miranda ; and, on tbe ensuing morning, made preparations for crossing the mountains of Sierra Moreno. For this purpose, to lighten the cfaaises, tfaey fastened tfae heaviest of their trunks upon mules. Tfae road, thougfa steep, was far from bad; but the mountains were dreary and disagreeable. As soon as they had descended on tfae otfaer side of tfae Sierra Morena, and faad entered the province of La Mancha, they perceived' a severe and very extraordi nary change of climate. It was now near the end of April, aud yet they seemed to have been, in a manner, tfarown back to tfae last months of winter. In Andalusia, tfae vines were all ih leaf, and tfaeir fruit was set ; and the flowers of the shrubs were falUng off to make way for the seed. But on the northern side of the moun tains scarcely a fresh leaf was to be seen on tbe trees, or a bud in the vineyards ; and the weather was cold and raw. In short, says Mr. Swinburne, it is difficult to imagine so sudden and so thorough a change of seasons as that whicfa tfaey experienced in tfais sfaort journey. Tfae Manofaa, fae observes, is an immense plain, in tersected ,by different ridges of low hills and rocks : there were no inclosures except mud-walls ; and scarcely a tree was to be seen frora the Sierra Morena to Toledo, nor frora the banks of the Tagus to INIadrid, except a few evergreen oaks, and some stunted olive plants. In tfaeir journey this day tfae travellers crossed a part of tfae country, under wliich tfae river Guadiana runs, in a subterraneous channel for nearly eight leagues. In the yard of one of the inns at which they slopped, they TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 3t5 were shown a well which communicated with the river beneath ; and straw, or any other ligfat substances, dropped into the well, were hurried away by the stream with so rauch rapidity, tfaat not a single piece could be brought up, though a bucket were let down alraost in stantaneously afterwards. They next arrived at Tolosa, a city very singularly situated. The Tagus, after winding through an exten sive plain, ran between two ramparts of high and steep rocks. The passage was very narrow ; and before the river again reached the open ground, it almost returned to the place where it entered. On this rocky peninsula stood the city, ill built, poor, dirty, and bad. 'The streets were so steep, tfaat no stranger would venture up or down tfaem in a carriage. The Alcazar, or an cient palace, was situated on the faigfaest point of all. It was a noble and extensive building, and had been lately repaired at the expense of the archbishop of Toledo. The catfaedral had nothing particularly de serving of notice, except a profusion of gold lavished on the walls of the interior. All the iron rails and the gothic arches were gilded ; and even lines of gold were drawn to mark the joints of the stones witfa wfaich tfae pillars of the choir had been built. It was a remark able circumstance, that, in this cathedral, tfaere was still existing a chapel, with a foundation for thirteen priests and three clerks, who were permitted every morning to officiate in a manner and a language different from that of the Roman Catholics. This was called the Mosarabic chapel, and their peculiar ritual was origitially the same that was observed by the Christians whicfa remained in those provinces that had been conquered by the Ara-^ bians. From Toledo, the ancient capital of New Castile, to within half a league of Madrid, the present seat of the Spanish government, the roads were bad, and all the ad jacent country was unpleasant Tfais metropolis of Spain had a very despicable appearance, as approached from the south. Neither villa, tree, nor garden, was to be 93 346 SWINBURNE'S seen till the travellers arrived at the city : tfae cornfields extended quite to the houses. But, when - entered, Madrid was found to be a grand and animated place. It had noble streets, good houses,, and a clean and ex cellent pavement ; and yet, with tbe exception of the royal palaces, there were few buildings deserving of particular attention in it. As it was not tfae see of a bishop, it had no cathedraU nor, indeed, faad it any church - distinguishable from the generality of con ventual and parish churcfaes. Tfae royal palace was constructed of white stcme. Each of the fronts was four faundred and seventy feet in length, and an faundred feet high. Hence this edifice towered above the wfaole city. Tfae entrances were such, as might be supposed to faave belonged to a for tress. Mr. Swinburne says, tfaat fae knew no palace in Europe whicfa was fitted up witfa so mucfa magnificence as this. ... The ceilings were painted by tfae first artists of Spain ; and the richest marbles were employed with great tastein forming the cornices and other ornamental parts, and the frames of the doors and windows. And wfaat enhanced the value of these marbles, was their faaving all been the production of Spain. The great audience chamber was pecuUarly rich. The ceiUng was beautifully painted ; the walls were encrusted with dif ferent kinds of marble, and enriched with large plates of looking-glass in splendid frames. On a hill east of Madrid was a royal palace, called the Buenretiro ; but it faad been stripped of all its best pictures and' furniture. Tfae buildings were poor and unworthy ofa sovereign; but the gardens were well laid out. A public walk near Madrid, called tfae Prado, whicfa faad been finished by the grandfather of the pra- , sent, king, was of great lengtfa and breadtfa, and had its avenues designed in a noble style. The travellers went from Madrid to tfae royal palace at Araryuez, distant about twenty-seven miles, and along an extremely fine road, made at tfae expense of £130,000 sterling. Aranjuez was a beautiful place. Here were numberless avenues of aged elms on a per- TRAVELS IN SPAIN, 347 feet level ; green banks to rest upon, near a meandering river; fountains and shady groves. The beauties of the scenery were enhanced by the 'flocks of many co loured birds, which fluttered and sang among the branches ; by numerous herds of deer ; and by the droves of buffalos, sheep, cows, and brood mares, that wandered uncontrolled through the woods. Wild boars were frequently seen, in the evenings, even in the streets of the town. "There was a fine avenue, three miles long, whicfa extended quite from tfae palace gate, and crossed. the Tagus twice before it lost itself in the thickets. A garden on an island in tfae Tagus was a delightful place of retreat in hot weather. The west front of the palace was handsome, and the apartments were good ; but they did not contain any great number either of paintings or statues. The village of Aranjuez formerly consisted of the palace, and a few mberable dwellings, in which tfae ambassadors and at tendants of the court lodged tfaemselves as well as tfaey could, but always very uncomfortably ; for many of the habitations were vaults faalf under ground. An accident that occurred at the lodging of the pope's nuncio, de termined the king to build a new town. A coach broke through tfae ceiUng of tfae nunciofs dining-room, and fell in upon the table. After this considerable suras of money were applied in the erection of proper dwellings, for the great number of persons who resided here during the time the king was at the palace. Wfaen Mr. Swinburne .was at Aranjuez tfaere were several fine streets in straight lines, witfa broad pavemenls, a double row of trees before the houses, and a very noble road in the middle; commodious hotels for the ministers and ambassadors ; great squares, market-places, churcfaes, a theatre, and an arapfaitfaeatre for bull-feasts. The king of Spain, (Charles the Third, thg grand father of tfae present king), to whora Mr. Swinburne was introduced, was a man of plain dress and appear ance, and was excessively partial to field sports. N& storm, heat, cold, uor wet, could keep him at home; 348 Swinburne's and, when he heard of a wolf having been seen, he would drive over faalf tfae kingdom ratlier tfaan miss as opportunity of firing upon that his favourite game. While the travellers were at Aranjuez, tfaey were spectators of a bull-feast Whatever these feasts may faave been in former times, Mr. Swinburne says, tfaey were but poor exhibitions when he was in Spain. The worst horses that could be procured, were bought for the day ; and the gladiators no longer studied tfae most dexterous, but tfae raost secure way of destroying tfae bulls, for they were allowed a certain sura for every beast they slaughtered. The view of the arapfaitfaeatre, filled witfa nuraerous spectators of all ranks, was, how ever, a very imposing sight. The nobility sgt in wooden galleries, and the mob on benches below, next to the arena ; and a row of soldiers was stationed behind the circular palisado, to hold out tfaeir faalberts and bayonets, for the purpose of keeping tfae beasts within the en closure. . The common mode of conducting a bull-feast is nearly thUs described by Mr. Swinburne : — One or two Toriadors, as they were called, dressed in rich jackets, broad-brimmed hats, and breeches and boots made of a, tough impenetrable leather, and holding under tfaeir rigfat arm a long spear (tipped with a broad shallow- pointed faead tfaat could only enter skin-deep) paraded on faorseback round the lists. Tfaey tfaen retired to tfaeir post, almost in front of a large door, wfaich was opened to let out the bull. The man tfaat opened tfae door took care to climb immediately into the gallery, as it was not unusual for the bulls to stop short, as soon as tfaey were out, and make a home thrust at the porter. Tfae tori- ador then presented the bead of his horse to the bull, and, with the lance, pushed on the right, at the same time bearing fais faorse toward the left : in tfais opera tion the lance cut along the shoulders of the bulL Another mode of attack was with a kind of forked dagger. The horseman stood close by the door, and, as the bull .sprung forward into tfae area, he endeavoured to plant TRAVELS IN S-PAlN. 349 his weapon into tfae back of its neck, and kill it on tlie spot. To take off tfae attention of tfae bull, and to make sport, several nimble fellows ran about and threw darts with curled paper tied to tfaem : tfaese, sticking into tfae head and shoulders, almost drove the poor beast mad. When the governor thought a victim had afforded sufficient diversion, leave was given to put an end to its life. A champion now stepped forth, with a short brown cloak hung upon a stick held in his left hand, and a straight two-edged sword (the hilt covered with leather) in his right. Tfais matador, as he was called, advanced to the bull and provoked him to action, and, after mauoeuvering witfa faim a little, lield the sword in an horizontal position, with such steady aim, that the furious beast rushed upon the point, and was thus de stroyed. Tfae last bull of each bull-feast had fais faorns muffled, and all tfae mob w as let in, witfa sticks in their hands, to learn tfae trade, to beat the animal, or to be bruised and tossed about for tbe amusement of the spectators. Three mules, adorned with streamers and bells, drew off the slaughtered bulls and horses between each hattie. In tfae bull-feast that Mr. Swinburne at tended, two buUs killed seven horses ; but no men lost their lives, tfaougfa many faad faair-breadth escapes. The travellers returned to Madrid about the begin ning of May, and, on' the 6th of Jnne, they set out on their journey to Segovia. Tfae first place of import ance at which they arrived was a celebrated palace and convent, caUed the Escurial. Its situation, in a corner of a lofty range of mountains, was remarkably grand and romantic. This palace was begun, in the year 1562, by Philip the Second ; and it consisted of several courts and quadrangles, wfaich altogether were disposed in the sfaape ofa gridiron, tfae instrument of tfae martyr dom of St. Laurence : the apartment where the^ing re- sidedformed tfae faandle. The-fauilding was of an oblong sfaape^ tfae front measuring six hundred and forty feet in length, and each of tfae sidesfive faundred and twenty feet. In tfae west front there were two faundred windows. 350 SWINBURNE'S The external appearance of this vast mass Mr. Swin burne describes to faave been extremely plain^ and by no means elegant. Its narrow high towers, small win dows, and steep sloping roof, exhibited, in his opinion, an uncouth style of architecture ; but the domes, and the imraense extent of its fronts, rendered it a wonder fully grand object from every point of view. The cfaurch in tfae centre was large, awful, and richly but not affectedly ornamented. Here was a mausoleum, or burial-place of the royal family of Spain. In the church and convent were many fine paintings. The .library contained an extremely valuable collection of raanu- scripts many fine drawings, and otfaer curiosities. It was usual witfa tfae king of Spain to pass several months in the year at tfae Escurial ; and, in order to make tfae place less inconvenient to his attendants and the nobiU^, he had built an entire new town adjoining to it. From tfae Escurial the traveUers proceeded north ward across tfae mountains ; and, tbougfa it was now near tfae middle of June, the snow was still deep on tfae summits. Tfaey arrived for dinner at Saint Ildefonso, wfaere was ahother regal palace. As tfais was a pecu liarly cool place,- the court generally passed here the hot months of summer. The gardens were laid out in the French style, and the waterworks surpassed any that Mr. Swinburne had ever seen, not excepting the finest at Versailles. Amongst others was one where sixteen spouts played in a regular combination ; and a basket, remarkable for its construction and symraetry ; and a lofty coluran of water, that issued out of the trump of Fame, exceeded all Mr. Swinburne's conceptions of tfae power of hydrostatics : the water rose to so extra ordinary an elevation, tfaat it was not in fais power even to guess at tfae number of feet. -Segovia, wfaere tfae travellers next arrived, was re markable for an aqueduct two tfaousand four faundred Spanish feet long, and one faundred and four feet faigfa. It was composed of a double row of arches, oue bun- TRAVELS IN SPAIN.' 35 dred and sixty-one in number, built of large squai stones, without mortar, and faaving over tfaem a faoUo wall, of coarser materials, for the diannel of tfae wat? This aqueduct was tfae work of tfae ancient Roman: and faad been so perfectly preserved that at this time did not seera leeky in any part. The cathedral i Segovia was one of the handsomest churcfaes in Spaii There was here an ancient castle, which stood on rock, and in one of the finest positions imaginable : an towards tfae town was a large court, before the gres outward tower of the castle; tfais was immediate! known by Mr. Swinburne to have been the prison < GU Bias, so weU described by Le Sage. At Segovi was the faead establishment of the Spanish artiUery and a mint for the coining of copper money. Two days after tfaey left Segovia, tiie travellers ai rived at Valladolid, a large and straggling city, foi merly one of the residences of the Spanish court ; bu at this time, fallen so mucfa to decay as to exhibit picture of tfae utmost desolation.- The Dominican Coi vent here was a gotfaic edifice, the most reraarkable i the place. The university was in the last stage of decline, and trade and manufactures were at an eb equally low. It was miserable to behold the povert and misery that were painted in the meagre faces, an< -displayed in the tattered garments, of the commo people. On tfae 13tfa of June the traveUers arrived at Burgot the ancient capital of the kingdom of Castile, but Ion since abandoned by its princes. The approach to i up a long valley was pleasing ; tfae castle, tfae ancien broken waUs sloping down from it, and lower, down tfa catfaedral, terminated tfae prospect in a picturesqu manner. At a little distance before tfaey eutered Bui gos, the travellers passed the famous Abbey de la Huelgas, the nuns of which were all noble; and th abbess almost a sovereign princess, at least as far as th extent of faer territories, tfae number of lier prerogs tives, and the variety of her jurisdictions e-xtended. 5.52 SWINBURNE'S The cathedral of Burgos was one of the most magni-' icent gothic structures in Europe. Its form Mr. Swin burne describes to have been exactly the same as that }f York Minster ; but in the style of its workmanship, ind in its perfect state of preservation, it was much superior to that elegant edifice. On their journey from Burgos tfae traveUers slept at 1 poor place, wfaere they were mucfa diverted witfa tfae lie-dd-dress of tfae married women. It consisted of a black periwig, faced all round witfa black wool, and ending befaind in two long plaited tresses, that reached to the middle of their body. After having passed through several plains and vallies, and crossed through, a lofty ridge of mountains, they entered Alava, a divi sion of the province of Biscay, and tfaere came to tfae finest road imaginable, made at the expense of tfae pro vince, and carried through to the frontiers of France. Every thing around them now assumed a different ap pearance from'what they had hitherto seeu. Instead of naked and depopulated hills, melancholy and despond ing countenances, ' dirty inns and abominable roads, which they had been accustomed to for many months past, they were here revived by tbe sight of a clean, rich, and studied culture, a healthy and smiling people, good furniture, neat houses, fine woods, good roads, and safe bridges. . Biscay was a strong and mountainous country. The inhabitants appeared wholly different from other Spaniards ; and their language was so peculiar, that the peasants of Biscay and Castile were scarcely able to understand each others The men were well formed, and active ; 'and were singular for \vearing' round their legs pieces of coarse grey or black woollen cloth, which they fastened on with many turns of tape. The women were beautiful, tall, agile, and merry : their hair fell in long plaits down their backs, and a veil, or handker chief, twisted round iu a coquetish manner, served them for a very becoming head-dress. On Sundays they gene- raUywore a white dress, tied witfa rose-coloured knots. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 35-3 Tfae travellers approacfaed Vittoria, tfarougfa one of the finest plains perhaps in Europe. Its wonderful fer tility, the number of villages in sight on all the little eminences, tfae noble woods tfaat stretcfaed round tfae cornlands, aud the happy and busy looks of the crowd wfaicfa tfaey raet returning from tfae market, inspired them with inexpressible delight. Every cottage had its little garden, neat and flourishing. Vittoria was situated on a hill, and faad a good ap pearance from tfae environs ; but the streets were nar row and gloomy. Beyond tfais, tfae capital of Alava, the travellers ascended tfae faills into woods of oaks, beecfa, and cfaesnut; and, faaving passed a range of lofty and rugged mountains, tfaey entered a well wooded country, and soon afterwards descended into tfae valley of Tolosa: On tfae 18tfa of June tfaey reacfaed the summit of a hill, from whicfa tfaey overlooked tfae Bay of .Biscay, Fontarabia, tfae course of the river Bidassoa, part of France, and a prodigious range of tfae Pyrenees. A more delightful prospect never existed. The same morning they crossed the Bidassoa in a ferry-boat, and proceeded to Bayonne. Maria. The lower class of people in some parts of Spain appear, from Mr. Swinburne's description, to be extremely filthy and disagreeable in their habits of life. Mr. Allen. The account that he has given is cer tainly, in many respects, an unfavourable one ; but it does not contain a picture of wretchedness so strong as that given by Mr. Soutbey, who visited Spain about twenty years ago. He has described his situation, in one of the Spanish inns, nearly in these words : — " In the room where I am sitting are placed two tressels ; four planks are laid across these, and support a stjaw- stuffed mattrass of imraense thickness ; over this is an otfaer as disproportionately tliin : and this is my bed. The seat of my cfaair is as faigh as the table I write upon. A lamp hangs upon the door. Above us are 354 TRAVELLERS. bare timbers, and the floor is tiled. I am used to ver min : to be fleaed is become the order of tbe nigfat, and I submit to it witfa all due resignatiou. Of the Spanish people, extreme filth and deplorable ignorance are the most prominent characteristics." In anotfaer place he says, " we could only procure a most deplorable room, with a hole above tfae roof to admit light, as if down a cfaimney. It was long before we could procure eitfaer -cfaairs or tables. The people of the houses spread beds for us on mats upon the floor. The roof was of cane ; and tfae rats, running over it m the nigfat, sfaook down tfae dirt on our faeads. I lay awake the wfaole nigfat, .killing tfae musquetoes as they settled on ray face, while tfae inhabitants of the bed entertained tfaemselves mer rily at our expense." Sir Charles. Tfais wretchedness is no doubt, in a great degree, owitlg to the ill-conducted government of the country^ and the consequent indolence of tfae peo ple. Indeed, Mr. Swinburne remarks, tfaat indolence is no where more indulged tfaan in tfais country. He says, tfaat in all parts of the realm great numbers of men may be seen to pass their whole day, wrapped in their cloaks, and standing in rows against walls, or dosing under trees. Mr. Allen. In the lower classes of the Spanish na tion tfaere is a total want of every excitement to action. Tfae springs of their intellectual.raculties forget to play; and tfaeir views grow confined within the wretched spfaere of tfaeir mere existence. Tbey feel Uttie or no concern for the welfare or glory of a country, where the surface of tfae earth is wholly engrossed by a few overgrown families, who seldom bestow a thought on tiie condition of their vassals. The poor Spaniard does not work, unless urged to do so by irresistible want, because he perceives that no advantage will accrue from his industry. Food and raiment are purchased at a small expense, fae consequently spends no more time in labour than is absolutely necessary for procurmg the scanty provision wfaich his abstemiousness requires. SWINBUBNE, 355 Sir Charles, Anotfaer cause of indolence undoubt edly arises from the large sums wfaicfa are daily ex pended in tfae convents of tfais country, for feeding tfae por. This kind of cfaarity, faowever laudable as to tfae intention, is certaiuly prejudicial to tfae public welfare. It faas an almost direct tendency to encourage beggary and idleness ; for who will work who is sure of a good dinner every day at tfae gates of a monastery, besides the chance of occasional alms ; and in a climate where the mildness of the atmosphere is sucfa as to render clothes and lodging objects of luxury ratfaer than of tfae first necessity ? Frederic. Notwitfaslanding all tfais, sir, I believe it is generally allowed that where vigour and exertion are requisite, the Spaniard will be found both able and will ing to exert them. At a bull-feast fae could not be exceeded in activity by the infaabitants of any country. The Spanish soldiers are said to be brave, and patient of hardsfaip ; and wherever their officers will lead, Ihey wilt follow. Most of tfae Spaniards are hardy; and, when once engaged, will go tfarough great difficulties without murmuring. They have the merit of bearing tbe inclemencies of the seasons with great firmness, and supporting fatigue with amazing perseverance. Few people are more sparing in their diet than these. Sir Charles. True; but ibis arises perhaps more from a sense of habitual indigence, than from any real aversion to gluttony. Wfaerever they can riot in plenty, at another man's table, they wiU gormandize to excess, and, not content with eating as much as they can, tfaey wiU carry off whatever tfaey can stuff into their pockets. Edmund, According to our notions, the Spaniards are not very delicate in their eating. They are fond of strong flavoured dishes. Few of them eat any thing that is not flavoured with saffron, pimento, or garlic. They are also partial tooil that has a rank smell and taste :~indeed the same oil feeds their lamps, swims in their pottage, and dresses their salad. Mr. Swinburne says, that in inns tfae ligfated lamp is frequently faanded 356 TRAVELLERS. down to the table, that each man may take as much as he chooses. Frederic, I formerlj- imagined that Ihe Spaniards were a serious and melancholy nation ; but Mr. Swin burne says, this is not the case. He observes, that, although misery and discontent have long cast a gloom over their character, yet they have rauch natural cfaeer- fulness of disposition ; that every village resounds with the music of voices and guitars; and that the Spanish fairs and wakes are remarkably noisy and riotous. 'These people are said to talk louder, and to argue with more vehenlence than even the Frencfa or Italians ; and to gesticulate witfa equal, if not superior eagerness. _ =7 Mr, Allen, The education of the Spaniards in ge neral is too much neglected, and their minds are too little enlightened by study or communication with otfaer nations to rub off the general rust with whicfa tfae Spdnisfa genius faas long been encrusted. Tfae public scfaools and universities of Spain are in a despicable state of ignorance and irregularity. Tbe comraon edu cation of an English gentleman would constitute a man of 'learning in this country ; and if he should under stand Greek, he would be quite a phenomenon. Sir Charles. Yet there were formerly in Spain twenty- four universities, and there are now seventeen. That of Toledo faad nearly tfaree thousand students only a little while ago. Lady Irwin. Of all the oppressions under wfaicfa the Spanish people labour, none seem to me so great as tiiat of the tribunal called the Inquisition, This, the professed object of which is to watch over tfae purity of tfae Cfaristian faith, but, in fact, to extirpate every species of heresy against the Roman Catholic doctrines, is a secret tribunal. The person accused h-as no raeans of knowing either the informers or the witnesses against him. He is privately seized, conveyed secretly to prison, ex^amined in private by the judges of this tribunal ; and if there be the slightest evidence of his guilt in his having SWINBURNE. 367 S"did or done any thing contrary to the purity of the Catfaolic faitfa, or contrary to the authority of tlie Inqui sitorial Court, he is punished by solitary imprisonment, confiscatiou of his goods, excommunication, penance, or in some other way. I believe, however, that the burning of heretics, which was formerly practised, is now discontinued. Mr. Allen. Tfae Inquisition is a court, the very name of which excites in most minds the involuntary sentiment of dread. . But this tribunal is uo longer what it was formerly. It is at present rather an engine of police than subservient to ecclesiastical purposes. No change, indeed, faas taken place in tfae form and manner of its proceedings, wfaich are always covered by impenetrable secrecy ; but tbe objects of its notice are at present rather political principles than' religious opinions. It now seldom acts except in cases of open and public scandal, and it is said never to do so till after private, notice and advice faave beeu had recourse to without effect. Tfae people of Spain have not beheld an auto da fe, as tbe burning of heretics was called, for nearly an hundred and forty years. TUe last tfaat took place was in the yeajr 1680. Maria. I suppose that, in Spain, the monks must constitute a very considerable part of the population. Mr. Allen, From estimates, made in the year 1788, it appears tfaat tfaere were tfaen 49,238 monks, and 22,347 nuns. Louisa, I do not recoUect tfaat Frederic, in his nar rative, ' faas described tfae general appearance and cfaa- racter of tfae Spanish women. • Sir Charles, Tfaey are said, for the mqst part, to be short and slender. Few of them are pecuUarly beauti-. ful; but almost all have sparkling eyes, black, and full of expression. They have much wit and lively repartee, hut from want of polish and education, tfaeir wit is ob scured by the rudest ignorance and the most ridiculous prejudices. Mr. Allen, Respecting the bullfights, of which 358 TRAVELLERS, Frederic faas given a short account, it is requisite to observe that these barbarous exhibitions, the true na tional spectacle of Spain, have, for some years, been suppressed. 'While they existed, tfae - taste of the Spaniards for tfais amusement amounted to a most un bridled passion. Tfaey quitted every tfaing, and sacri ficed every tfaing, to procure a sfaare of it. It excited in them tfae most lively joy, and the most vefaement eager ness. Every wfaere, even in tfae sraallest towns, places were appropriated for it. Tfais entertainment made a part of every festival ; and as soon as it was announced, all kinds of people prepared to flock to it Tfae house wife quitted faer family, tfae tradesman fais sfaop, the artist his workroom, the labourer his plough, the pea sant fais fields ; and persons of a faigher condition were equally eager for tfae sfaow. Lady Irwin. I am astonished tfaat a spectacle so cruel should have been tolerated in any enlightened country. In all its detaib it must have been excessively disgusting.' Sir Charles, The - destruction of horses and oxen wfaich it occasioned, is said to have been almost be yond calculation : and neither of these species of animals are very abundant in Spain. Mr, Allen. The Spanish government became sensible of the injury the country was sustaining by the loss of these useful animals, and at length adopted the proper means for preventing-it. Tfae exhibition of bulb-figbts was, at first, forbidden unless in cases where the espe cial permission of the king was obtained ; and in the end the practice was entirely abolished. Louisa. After Mr. Swinburne left Spain, did he im mediately return to England 1 Frederic. No ; fae proceeded from Bayonne to Tarbes, and thence along the French side of the Pyrenees, by Bagneres and Bareges, to Toulouse and Marseilles. He subsequently travelled tfarough Italy and SicUy, be fore he reached England. SWINBURNE. 359 Louisa. Were his travels through tfae latter coun tries published 1 Frederic. In 1799 he published the Travels in Spain, of wfaicfa I faave just read to you a narrative; and about four years afterwards tfae first volume of his Travels iu the TVo Sicilies. Tfae latter work faas since been com pleted, and it now forms four volumes in octavo. Wfaen he wrote these two works, I believe, he resided at a mansion wfaich he possessed at Hamsterley, in tfae bisfaopric of Durfaam. Mr. Allen. Subsequently to tfais, Mr. Swinburne ex perienced a severe reverse of fortune. He married his only daughter to a person who proved an adventurer ; and he becarae involved in the pecuniary embarrassments of his son-in-law. I have been informed that fae after wards obtained a situation in tfae island of Trinidad, and.tfaat fae died tfaere in tfae month of April, 1803. Sir Charles. I believe Mr. Swinburne's chief induce ment to visit Spain was, tfaat fae might study the Moor ish antiquities of that country. Edmund. Such, no doubt, was bis principal object ; but he made it an important part of fais plan to investi gate also tfae nature of tfae soil, tfae cultivation, and commerce of tfae country, and tfae manners and cha racter of its infaabitants. Mr. Allen. He was a man of learning and ingenuity, and was tfae first wfao brougfat us intimately acquainted witfa Spain, and tfae arts and monuments of its ancient inhabitants. In the narrative tfaat faas just been read, Frederic has omitted the greater part of Mr, Swin burne's observations on these subjects. Frederic. I did so, "sir, because, however important in themselves, I considered them unadapted to our dis cussions. Although the antiquary would be delighted with them, I preferred such parts of the work as gatve me a correct notion of^ the present state of the country and its infaabitants. Sir Charles. Here, for the present, we must end our conversations. Mr, Allen and myself have another class 360 TRAVELLERS. of biography to propose for discussion, which we will communicate to you in the course of a few days. In the mean time it is our wish that -you should not relax your attention to the jwesent subject ; but that you should prepare for discussion a series of " Narratives of Modern Travels." We will, if you please, bring these down to the present time ; but, as tfae autfaors-of raost of them may still be livuig, we will not render the con versation. l^iOgraphical : it shall only be illustrative, and shall be conducted in tbe manner of our concluding conversation relative to Sir George Wheler's travels, and the- travels which we have just ended. Mr. Allen. And as the biography is thus omitted, we perfaaps may be able to extend the discussions to somewhat greater length than, in general, we have hitfaerto done. Sir Charles. But I wisfa it to be understood, that we intend to go througfa another series of Biographical Conversations before we begin with these. By so doing we shall vary our amusements; and Mr. Allen and my self shall be enabled to direct your attention to some important pointsof instruction, in subjects with wfaicfa you may not hitherto, perfaaps, be so weU acquainted as you ought. JlNIS. C. Wbittingham, College House, Cbisnick. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 03104 0703