Isy r JL

DECKER ¦^BROTHERS' m m
MATCHLESS
PIANOS
SOLD AND RENTED
MODERATE PRICES EASY TERMS
33 TJKION jSqUARE
NEW YORK

THE PLAZA HOTEL.
F. A. HAMMOND, Proprietor.
LOCATED AT THE
MAIN ENTRANCE TO AND OVERLOOKING CENTRAL PARK,
AND OCCUPYING THE ENTIRE BLOCK FROM
58th to 59th Streets and Fifth Ave.,
NEW YORK CITY.

The Hotel is absolutely Fiee-Pboof, and is furnished
throughout with all that Modern Ingenuity and Practical
Science can devise to promote comfort and convenience to
patrons. The desirable location particularly recommends it as
a Summee Residence.
APPLETONS' DICTIONARY OF
NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY.
Thirteenth edition. Thoroughly revised, containing
thirty-six pages of new material.
An alphabetically arranged Index to all Places, Societies, Institutions,
Amusements, and other features of the Metropolis and Neighborhood
upon which Information is needed by the Stranger or the Citizen. With
Maps of New York and Vicinity. Paper cover, 30 cents : flexible cloth.
60 cents. '
" Its continued popularity is not surprising when one considers the essential merit
of the work, and the extreme pains taken to keep it abreast of the times."— Boston

"Makes good its claim to annual revision. ... It needs no fresh praise "  The
Nation. " What with its maps, pictures, and lists, the wayfarer in our city can hardly ask
for a better pocket companion than this."— 2"Ae Critic.
For sale by all booksellers ; or will be sent by mail on receipt of price.
D. Appleton & Co., Publishers, 1, 3, & 5 Bond St., New York.

% Strietly First Class Transient Hotel.

Now free from spray and dampness subjected to while on Canada side.

Same owner and management as the Original Prospect
House, Canada side, established in 1874,
Has been patronized by His Excellency the Marquis of Lome, Governor-
General of Canada; Her Royal Highness the Princess Louise and suite; His
Royal Highness Prince Leopold, K. G., and suites; His Royal Highness
Prince George of Wales and suite; His Excellency the Marquis of Lans-
downe, Governor-General of Canada, and the Marchioness of Lansdowne and
suite, and many other distinguished American and foreign tourists.

This hotel is fitted with all modern improvements, conveniently and
admirably located on high, shady ground, and is a strictly first-class
transient hotel, open all the year round. A most striking compli
ment to the Prospect House has been paid it by some inferior
hotels adopting a similar name to influence the traveling public.
Rates, $3.50 to $5.50 per day.
Leave cars at Niagara Palls, New York stations.
Engage carriages for sight-seeing at the Hotel.
An advance notice ot arrival by mail or telegraph willgreatly facilitate.

-^ Fifth Avenue Hotel, §?
MADISON gQUAKJEj IIW YOKl»

THE LARGEST, BEST APPOINTED, AND MOST LIBERALLY MANAGED HOTEL IN
THE CITY, WITH THE MOST CENTRAL AND DhLIGHTFUL LOCATION.

A. B. DARLING,
CHARLES N. VILAS,
E. A. DARLING
HIRAM HITCHCOCK.

HITCHCOCK, DARLING .& CO.

ST. LOUIS HOTEL,
Quebec, Canada.

This Hotel, which is Unrivaled for Size, Style, and Locality
in Quebec, has just been completely transformed
and modernized throughout,
Being refitted with new system of drainage and ventilation, passenger elevator,
electric bells and lights, etc. In fact, all that modern ingenuity and practical
science can devise", to promote the comfort and convenience of guests, has been
supplied.

The ST. LOUIS is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the most
delightful and fashionable promenades, the Governor's Garden, the Citadel,
Place d'Armes, Dufferin Terrace, and the Esplanade, and contains accommoda
tion for 500 guests.

CHATEAU SAINT LOUIS HOTEL CO.
PROPRIETORS.
WILLIAM E. RUSSELL, President.

STORIES OF CANADIAN LIFE.

THE CANADIANS OF OLD.
By PHILIPPE GASPE.
Translated by CHARLES G. D. ROBERTS.
12mo. Paper, 50 cents. Specially bound in cloth, $1.00.
The scene of this historical romance is laid in the eighteenth century.
Among the subjects sketched in the work, which is the classic romance of
Canada, are picturesque phases of life in the old seigniories of Quebec, hunt
ing adventures, and the strange legends of Old Canada.
" A story that reproduces the life of a past era with a picturesque accuracy
that is fairly fascinating." — Boston Saturday Evening Gazette.
" Full of dramatic episodes. Stories of adventure, by water and on land,
abound throughout the book. . . A fascinating book — a book which,
though new to the United States, has long been esteemed "a classic in
Canada." — New York Tribune.
" A book not only of interest, but of value." — San Francisco Bulletin.
" It abounds in stirring scenes by flood and field, and also in humorous
colloquy." — Brooklyn Eagle.

GEOFFREY HAMPSTEAD.
By THOMAS STINSON JARVIS.
12mo. Faper cover, SO cents.
"... The action is rapid, the dramatic interest well sustained, dialogue
original and pointed, and there is a definite ethical purpose. . . . ' Geoffrey
Hampstead ' is a novel well worth perusal. It is long since the literature of
our Northern neighbors has given us anything half as good."— Boston Beacon.
" There are so many vivid pictures in ' Geoffrey Hampstead ' . . . that it
is hard to pick out a chief one among them in the matter of narrative, em
phasis, or of tragic force ; and after all the passages of intenser character
have been considered, it is still difficult to determine whether they are not
all made secondary by the great interest of the philosophical discussions in
which this strong and versatile book abounds."— New York Sun.
w,'.V^eo.ffrey HamPstead' ... is a novel of much ingenuity and force.
While it is a story of incident, it presents several keen, analytic studies of
character also, and the novelist makes the incident illustrate the characters
without going into long, tiresome analysis and description."— Chicago Times.
New York: D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.

The Florence

«ii t.miT.1,. e. t^IjU

Is the most pleasant, attractive, and comfortable house for tourists
that can be found on this continent,

Its location unequaled, and the panoramic view to be had from the
Balcony is not even surpassed by the world-renowned Dufferin
Terrace, as it commands a full view of the River St. Lawrence,
the St, Charles Valley, Montmorency Falls, Laurentian Range
of Mountains, and overlooks the largest part of the city.
The rooms are large, elegantly furnished, and well ventilated, and
the table FIRST CLASS.

Street-cars pass the door every ten minutes.
Telephone communication. — Electric light and bell in every room.
Iron balconies and iron stairs from every floor. Perfect safety against
any accident,

THE SOVEREIGNS AND COURTS
OF EUROPE.
THE HOME AND COURT LIFE AND CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE REIGNING FAMILIES. By "Politikos." With many Por
traits. 12mo. Cloth, $1.50.
" The chief merit of this book is that it gives a new view of several sovereigns.
. . . The anonymous author seems to have sources of information that are not
open to the foreign correspondents who generally try to convey the impression that
they are on terms of intimacy- with royalty."— San Francisco Chronicle.
ADELINE'S ART DICTIONARY.
CONTAINING A COMPLETE INDEX OF ALL TERMS USED IN
ART, ARCHITECTURE, HERALDRY, AND ARCHEOLOGY.
Translated from the French and enlarged, with nearly 2,000 Illus
trations. 8vo. Cloth, $2.25.
• A most comprehensive work." — Springfield Bepublican.
"Nothing could be more comprehensive in its way." — New York Sun.
ELECTRICITY: THE SCIENCE OF
THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.
A SKETCH FOR GENERAL READERS. By E. M. Caillard, author of
"The Invisible Powers of Nature." Illustrated. 12mo. Cloth, $1.25.
" An admirable treatise, giving such an outline of modern electrical science as
may be readily understood by readers who have no previous acquaintance with the
subject." — Philadelphia Press.
GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS
ON THE VOLCANIC ISLANDS AND PARTS OF SOUTH AMERICA
VISITED DURING THE VOYAGE OF H. M. S. "BEAGLE."
By Charles Darwin, M, A., F. R. S., etc., author of " The Structure
and Distribution of Coral Reefs," "The Origin of Species," etc.
Third edition. With Maps and Hlustrations. 12mo. Cloth, $2.50.
" No one engaged in teaching physical geography should be without a knowl
edge of this characteristic product of Darwin's mind." — The Nation.
LA GRIPPE AND ITS TREATMENT.
FOR GENERAL READERS. By Cyrtts Edson, M. D., of the Health
Department, New York City. Small 18mo. Parchment paper,
25 cents.
"The author believes that la grippe has come to stay, and that the masses
should know how to avoid its dangers. The volume gives a brief history of the
disease, its diagnosis and prognosis, and shows how the serious and fatal compli
cations can be avoided by proper hygienic care. It is a good little manual for
every home."— Chicago Inter-Ocean.
New York ; D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street

A conductor on a Western Express is the marvel of those who have been let into hig
secret. Although having had both of his feet amputated, he is a conductor of extraor
dinary ability.
He passes through his train when going at the rate of fifty miles an hour ; he collects
and punches tickets with the suavity of one proud of his position. The car jolts, hitches,
sways, and he retains his balance without the least awkwardness.
At stations he alights with agility, watches his passengers and gives signals, boards his
train and walks the passageway with the steadiness of one possessing his natural legs.
Day after day for three years he has performed this round of duty, and not a soul has
had occasion to suspect that he operates on a pair of artificial legs with rubber feet, and only
those to whom he voluntarily reveals his condition ever know of his dependence on artificial
extremities. His movements are graceful, his appearance is natural, his step is firm and
elastic, and his power is complete.
All this is made possible by the virtues of rubber, which largely composes the feet ; the
old methods of artificial limbs, with wooden feet and mechanical joints, would render this
man unsafe, tottlish, unsteady, and unfit for a position that requires sound footing. The
engraving represents Mr. Wade operating on his artificials in his chosen profession.
Subjects can remain at home and have artificials made, with fit guaranteed. One half the
legs and arms are made from measurements and profiles, without the presence of the wearer.
Indorsed by the United States Government, and over 12,000 men, women, and^ children,
who wear them, residing in all parts of the world.
Established over thirty-eight years.
A treatise of 400 pages, with 200 illustrations, sent free of charge.
Address A. A. MARKS, 701 Broadway, New York City,

THE QUEEN'S

TORONTO, ONTARIO.
Celebrated for its Home Comforts, perfect
Quiet, good Attendance, and the pecul
iar excellence of its Cuisine.
Delightfully situated near the Bay, on Front
Street, convenient to Business Center,
Railroad Depot, Steamboats, etc.
PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY AND THE BEST FAMILIES.

McGAW & WINNETT, Proprietors.

THE

CANADIAN GUIDE-BOOK

®rje SConrisfs anb Sportsman's Omibe to
©astern (ffanaba anb Nerofonnblanb

INCLUDING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF ROUTES, CITIES,
POINTS OF INTEREST, SUMMER RESORTS, FISHING PLACES, ETC.,
IN EASTERN ONTARIO, THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT,
THE ST. LAWRENCE REGION, THE LAKE ST. JOHN COUNTRY,
THE MARITIME PROVINCES,
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, AND NEWFOUNDLAND

WITH AN APPENDIX
GIVING PISH AND GAME LAWS, AND OFFICIAL LISTS OF
TROUT AND SALMON RIVERS AND THEIR LESSEES

BY
CHARLES G. D. ROBERTS
PROFESSOR OF ENGLISH LITERATURE IN KING'S COLLEGE, WINOSOR, K. s.

WITH MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS

NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
1891

Copyright, 1891,
By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.

En ly

CONTENTS.

PAGE
Introduction ... .1
PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
The Niagara River. ... .5
Niagara Falls ... . 6
From Niagara to Toronto . .... 13
The Water Route .... . .13
The Grand Trunk Route . . . . . .15
Hamilton ... . . .18
Toronto . . . . .20
The Muskoka District . 30
From Toronto eastward . . .35
Kingston . . .40
The Thousand Islands . . . .43
The St. Lawrence Rapids . . 46
Ottawa .... 49
From Ottawa to Montreal . . .53

PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
Province of Quebec . ... 58
Montreal . . . . ... 60
From Montreal to St. John 72
From Montreal to Quebec ... 73
By the St. Lawrence River . . 73
By Rail on the South Shore 79
By Rail on the North  .80
Quebec . . . 81
From Quebec to Lake St. John . . ... 95
Lake St. John . 99
Down the St. Lawrence and up the Saguenay . . 102
The Saguenay River . . . . 106
From Chicoutimi to the Mouth  108
Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity . . . 109
From Quebec to the Maritime Provinces :
By Rail .... . Ill
By Steamship round Gaspe . . 114
The Gasp£ Peninsula . , . , 115

IV CONTENTS.
PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. PAGE
The Province of New Brunswick .... • • 121
The Restigouche . . . . . 122
From the Restigouche to Moncton . . 1^6
The Miramichi ... 189
Moncton ... ¦ 1°1
Trips from Moncton . • • .131
From Moncton to St. John . • ^3
St. John ... 134
Up the River St. John • • • 1^1
Fredericton . . . 14"
From Frederick to Woodstock • 151
The Upper St. John  - • -152
The Grand Falls of the St. John . 155
Above the Grand Falls .... 157
Routes for the Sportsman ... . • 159
Up the Tobique by Canoe . • 165
By Rail from Woodstock . 180
Campobello and Grand Manan . . 183
The Return to St. John . . . 186
From Moncton to Amherst . . . 187

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.
Prince Edward Island  192
Charlottetown ..... . 195
From Charlottetown eastward . . 197

NOVA SCOTIA.
Nova Scotia ... . . 201
To Pictou and Antigonish . . ... 203
Cape Breton ... ... . . 207
Through the Bras d'Or Waters to Sydney ... . . 209
Baddeck . . . ... . . 209
Sydney . . . . . . . 211
From New Glasgow to Truro and Halifax . . 215
Trnro . . . .... . 215
Halifax ... . . 218
From Halifax to Bridgewater . 239
From Bridgewater to Yarmouth . . 242
Yarmouth .... . . 245
From Halifax eastward . . . . . 246
From Halifax to Yarmouth by Rail . . 247
Windsor .... . , 248
From Windsor to Parrsboro and St. John . . 250
From Windsor to Grand Pre . , . . .... 252

CONTENTS. V
PAGE
From Wolfville to Annapolis . ... 256
From Annapolis to Yarmouth  .259
NEWFOUNDLAND.
The Island of Newfoundland ... ... 227
St. John's ....  .229
Trips from St. John's  251
Along the Coast .... . .233
Conception Bay and the South Coast  2:54
The French Shore . . 237
APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.
General Information ... . 263
Lessees of Fishing Rights  264
Close Seasons for Fishing and Hunting . . . 267

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FACING page
Niagara Falls from Prospect Park .  4
The American Falls ... .8
Luna Falls and the Rock of Ages . . . 13
In the Thousand Isles . . . . . .44
Parliament Buildings, Ottawa . . . ... 51
Timber afloat at the Saw-mills, Ottawa . ... 52
Long Sault Rapids ... . . . .56
Running Lachine Rapids .... .58
Extemporized Railroad on the Frozen St. Lawrence 71
Fort Chambly, on the Richelieu River ... 76
Citadel at Quebec ... . . ... 86
Cape Gaspe . . . . ... 112
Perce Rock . . . . .... 116
Gaspe Residents returning from Church  118
The Beach at Paspebiac, and View of the Bay . . 122
Valley of the Metapedia . . . .... 124
A Moose Family .... 146
Curing Fish at PercSs .... . . .159
Caribou Migration  .168
The Steamer Arctic, Prince Edward Island . . 188
Cape Porcupine, and Cape St. George ... ... 191
The Oldest House in Prince Edward Island . . 194
Old Fireplace at Entry Island  198
The Mail-boat at Prince Edward Island . 201
On the Road to Baddeck . . .... 210
St. John's, Newfoundland  230
The Monthly Mail Train from Hall's Bay to Codroy . . 233
Government Houses and Town Pumps at St. Pierre . . .236
Cape Blomidon ...  252
Cape Split  . . .254

Vlii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. MAPS.

FACING page
. 55

Routes between Ottawa and Montreal. 64
Plan of Montreal . 82
Plan of Quebec go
Lake St. John and Vicinity
The Gaspe Peninsula 034
Belle Isle Strait
Canadian Salmon Rivers and Gaspe Basin . 268
General Map, Province of Ontario . . • .In Pocket.
" " Province of Quebec
" " Maritime Provinces

INTRODUCTION.
The dear home of freemen brave and true,
And loving honor more than ease or gold.
Agnes Maule Machar.
Stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Erie to
the Arctic Ocean, occupying a more spacious territory than the United
States and Alaska, lies the great dominion to which the name of Canada
now applies, a country whose people are engrossed in the work of na
tion-making. Perhaps nowhere else in the world, at this present day,
are such mighty forces stirring to such gigantic and uncalculated issues.
Within a decade there has come about such a change in the spirit of
the Canadian people that outside observers, judging from data of ten
or fifteen years ago, find themselves pathetically astray in their conclu
sions ; for the name of Canada, almost in a day, has become a name to
conjure with, from corner to corner of this confederation which we
have molded out of the once scattered and half-antagonistic provinces
of British North America. To the tourist whose interest centers chiefly
in men, in institutions, in ethnological and political problems, this coun
try with a future and not without a significant past offers the strongest
possible attractions. To those who look for magnificence or charm of
landscape, for an invigorating climate, for the wholesome relish of rod
and gun and paddle, this region of the North makes no less active ap
peal. Its deficiencies, of course, are those of all new countries — its
fields have not been sown thick with blood and tears, its cities lack the
magic of inexhaustible memories, the treasures of a long-established
civilization. One city, Quebec, seems old to us, and has gathered about
its diadem of ramparts much of " the light that never was on sea or
land " ; but, compared with Old World cities, it is a growth of yesterday.
The section of Canada which is here designated as Eastern Canada
is in the main coextensive with old Canada and Acadia. The rich and
populous section of Ontario which lies between Lakes Erie and Huron is
avoided, as belonging rather to the Western than the Eastern tour.
Toronto forms the most convenient center from which to start west or

JJ INTRODUCTION.
east. The term Eastern Canada includes a large section of Ontario,
with the provinces of Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince
Edward Island. Newfoundland, and that part of Labrador belonging
to Newfoundland, though not attached to Canada, are touched upon in
the following pages, for the convenience of tourists who may wish to
visit them. The territory to be described may most conveniently be
covered in a round trip, offering abundant choice of routes, and oppor
tunity for attractive Bide-trips from the most important towns along
the way. It is a small territory compared with the rest of the Do
minion, but it contains the bulk of the population, much of the finest
scenery, many of the best hunting and fishing resorts, and nearly all
the history, tradition, and romance which combine to clothe the name
of Canada with something like a savor of antiquity. Here was the
center of French power in the New World, and here was fought to an
end the contest between France and England. About Quebec and
Louisbourg, Annapolis and Beausejour, battled the Leopards and the
Lilies for the dominion of half a continent. Quebec is still mighty,
the gateway to Canada ; but at Louisbourg the sheep pasture now where
stood but yesterday a great stronghold, the " Dunkirk of America."
There broods a spell of mystery and romance about the site of this
obliterated city. The magnitude and the heroism of the struggle for
New France have been perpetuated for us by Parkman, and the pathos
of its termination, as represented in a single episode, by Longfellow.
The climate of the St. Lawrence region and the Maritime Prov
inces is in general not unlike that of New England. The climate of
Nova Scotia, in particular, is neither so hot in summer nor so cold in
winter as that of the neighboring New England States. Summer
tourists will need to make such provision against cool evenings and
occasional fog as they would make if visiting the seaside resorts of
Maine. In northeastern Quebec the summers are often chilly, and
down the giant funnel of the Saguenay there blows at times, in mid
summer, a wind which makes the snuggest wraps desirable. As for
the fogs that sometimes roll in on the Atlantic coast, one may escape
them by a jaunt of a mile or two into the interior, or face them and
experience the miracle which they will work on dull or faded complex
ions. It is to the benign ministrations of the fog that the women of
the Atlantic seaboard owe the bloom and freshness of their faces.
The traveler who is well supplied with American bank-notes will
find no difficulty with the currency. American bills are good all over

INTRODUCTION. 3
Canada. American silver, except in the border communities, is liable
to a heavy discount, and in some places will be refused altogether.
The silver coinage of Canada is uniform for the whole Dominion, and
with this the tourist should keep himself well supplied.
Concerning the opportunities for making purchases, a Canadian
writer says :
" If the tourist be desirous of economizing ingeniously, he will pur
chase himself a suit of clothes in Toronto, Montreal, or Halifax, getting
a strong, English-looking material of Australian wool, woven in Can
ada ; and he will save fifty per cent over a similar article purchased in
Boston or New York. It is, of course, not ready-made goods that we
refer to, but suits made to order. In Halifax, a suit of best Canadian
tweed, durable and stylish, may be got from a first-rate tailor for $16
to $20 ; and a faultless dress-suit of best material for $35. In some
of the smaller towns, such as Truro and Windsor, in Nova Scotia, skill
ful tailors who have learned their trade abroad, and keep themselves
abreast of the fashion, are able, on account of low rents and small
taxes, to furnish thoroughly satisfactory suits of fine Canadian tweed,
of quiet and correct pattern, for $15. The lover of furs will of course
make his (or her) purchases in Toronto or in Quebec city, where the
great fur-shops supply these goods in variety and of best quality, at
prices quite unheard-of in American cities. Indian work — moccasins,
bark- and quill-work, etc. — are usually to be purchased at counters in
the chief hotels and on the Saguenay steamers, and at so-called ' Indian
bazaars ' in Montreal, Halifax, and St. John. In Quebec such things
are sold in the quaint old house wherein the body of Montgomery was
laid out."
All the baggage of travelers is subjected to an examination on
passing the borders ; but the customs officials, as a rule, are courteous,
and the search is not severe if the traveler shows a disposition to
facilitate it.
On the round trip from New York or Boston and back, by way of
Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, Halifax, and St. John, the tourist
will find the best of traveling facilities and accommodations. The
various railroad and steamboat lines by which he may make the jour
ney are equipped with all modern conveniences ; and the hotels in the
cities above named, as well as at many other places along the route,
are first class in every respect. This applies equally well to some
of the side-trips which will be mentioned in the following pages ; but
on others wilder regions will be traversed, where a similar degree of
comfort and luxury is not to be expected.
In the summer season round-trip tickets are issued from New York

4 INTRODUCTION.
and Boston and other centers ; and detailed information may be ob
tained at. the railroad and steamboat agencies. At a rough estimate it
may be said that the round trip from Boston or New York by way of
Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, Saguenay, Halifax, and St. John,
will cost from $40 to $55 in fares, according to choice of routes.
The plan of the book, its arrangement and classification of matter,
and the system of treatment, are based on the famous Baedeker Hand
books, which are conceded to possess in a pre-eminent degree the grand
desiderata of compactness, portability, and facility of consultation. As
much aid as possible is afforded to the eye by printing the names of
places and objects either in italics, or, where they are of sufficient
importance, in large-faced type.

Niagara Falls from Prospect Park.

APPLETONS'
CANADIAN GUIDE-BOOK.

PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
Niagara Falls.
Shall not Niagara's mighty voice
inspire to action high ?
'Twere easy such a land to love,
Or for her glory die. E. G. Nelson.
The tourist who proposes to visit the St. "Lawrence region and
Maritime Provinces of Canada will do well to travel with the sun,
beginning with Ontario and ending with New Brunswick or Nova Scotia.
Traveling in this direction, the descent of the St. Lawrence by boat is
open to him, with its charm of historic landscapes, and its exciting
experiences at the rapids of Long Sault and Lachine.
A little north of west from New York or Boston, on the isthmus
between Lakes Ontario and Erie lies Niagara, whither all roads lead.
Here we reach the frontier of the Maple-Leaf Land, and here our trip
may be properly said to begin.
Countless pens have striven to depict the sublimities of Niagara,
and have only succeeded in proving the hopelessness of the effort. I
will not add another to the list of failures. Not only are words inade
quate to convey any just impression of the stupendous cataract, but the
eye itself, on first beholding it, quite fails to . grasp its magnificence.
No one can be said to have seen the Falls who has taken but one look
and then passed on. To rightly apprehend them one should halt for
some days at Niagara till his eye adjusts itself to the new proportions,
and, like the boy that mocked the owls on Windermere, he feels that
1Lthe visible scene
Has entered unawares into his mind,
With all its solemn imagery."
Not many years ago the Falls were so hedged about with extortion
ate charges that the tourist, unless a millionaire, was constrained to

NIAGARA FALLS.

grasp his purse-strings and flee from the spot with the smallest possi
ble delay. Now, however, all that is changed, and on the Canadian
and American side alike the view of the falls is free. One pays only
for such unessential extras as crossing the ferry or visiting The Cave
of the Winds behind the cataract. The whole may be done on foot or
with the aid of the street-cars which run between the Whirlpool and the
Falls, and Niagara need be costly to none but those who desire to make
it so. Cab charges are regulated by law, and hotel rates * are much
as elsewhere, varying from $1 to .$4 a day.
The Falls are situated on the Niagara River, about 22 miles from
Lake Erie and 14 miles from Ontario. This river is the channel by
which all the waters of
NIAGARA RIVER  the four great upper
lakes flow toward the
Gulf of St. Lawrence,
and has a total descent
of 333 ft., leaving Lake
Ontario still 231 ft.
above the sea. From
the N. E. extremity of
Lake Erie the Niagara
flows in a N. direction
with a swift current for
the first 2 miles, and
then more gently with
a widening current,
which divides as a por
tion passes on each side
of Grand Island. As
these unite below the island, the stream spreads out to 2 or 'A miles in
width, and appears like a quiet lake studded with small low islands.
About 16 miles from Lake Erie the current becomes narrow and begins
to descend with great velocity. This is the commencement of The Rap.

* The best hotels are— on the American side, the Prospect House
Cataract House, International Hotel, Spencer House, Park Place Hotel
and Ealtenbach's ; on the Canadian side, the Clifton House and Brims'
wick House. The legal tariff for carriages is $2 per hour but it is
usually easy to arrange special terms. All tolls are paid by the

NIAGARA FALLS. 7
ids, which continue for about a mile, the waters accomplishing in this
distance a fall of 52 ft. The Rapids terminate below in a great cataract,
the descent of which is 164 ft. on the American side and 158 ft on the
Canadian. At this point the river, making a curve from W. to N.,
spreads out to an extreme width of 4,750 ft., embracing Goat and the
Three Sister Islands. Goat Island, which extends down to the brink
of the cataract, occupies about one fourth of this space, leaving the
river on the American side about 1,100 ft. wide, and on the Canadian
side about double this width. The line along the verge of the Canadian
Fall is much longer than the breadth of this portion of the river, by
reason of its horseshoe form, the curve extending up the central part
of the current. The waters sweeping down the Rapids form a grand
curve as they fall clear of the rocky wall into the deep pool at the base.
In the profound chasm below the fall, the current, contracted in width
to less than 1,000 ft., is tossed tumultuously about, and forms great
whirlpools and eddies as it is borne along its rapidly descending bed.
Dangerous as it appears, the river is here crossed by small row-boats,
which are reached from the banks above by an inclined railroad, and
the Maid of the Mist, a small steamer, makes frequent trips to the edge
of the Falls. For 1 miles below the Falls the narrow gorge continues,
varying in width from 200 to 400 yards. The river then emerges at
Lewiston into a lower district, having descended 104 ft. from the foot
of the cataract.
Here at Lewiston, where ends the gorge, was once the site of the
cataract. Instead of plunging into a deep chasm and hiding its grand
eur from all but those who would search it out, the gigantic torrent
rolled, in full view of the world, over the lofty line of Queenston
Heights, the escarpment of the high plateau of the upper lakes. The
recession of the Falls to their present point is thus discussed by the
Duke of Argyll : FORMER POSITION OF THE FALLS.
" A very curious question, and one of great scientific interest, arises
out of the great difference between the course of the Niagara River
above and below the Falls. It has, in my opinion, been much too
readily assumed by geologists that rivers have excavated the valleysin
which they run. The cutting power of water is' very great, but it varies
in proportion to the liability of floods, and the wearing power of stones
that may be carried along ; much also depends on the position of the
rocks over which a river runs. If the stratification present edges
which are easily attacked or undermined, even a gentle stream may cut

8 NIAGARA FALLS.
rapidly for itself a deeper bed. On the other hand, when the rocks do
not expose any surfaces which are easily assailable, a very large body
of water may run over them for ages without being able to scoop out
more than a few feet or even a few inches. Accordingly, such is actu
ally the case with the Niagara River in the upper part of its course from
Lake Erie to the Falls. In all the ages during which it has run into
that course for 15 miles it has not been able to remove more than a
few feet of soil or rock. The country is level and the banks are very
low, so low that in looking up the bed of the stream the more distant
trees on either bank seem to rise out of the water. But suddenly in
the middle of the comparatively level country the river enconnters a
precipice, and thenceforward for 7 miles runs through a profound cleft
or ravine the bottom of which is not less than 300 ft. below the general
level of the country. How came that precipice to be there ? This
would be no puzzle at all if the precipice were joined with a sudden
change in the genera) level of the country on either side of the river —
and there is such a change — but it is not at the Falls. It is 7 miles
farther on. At the Falls there is no depression in the general level
of the banks. Indeed, on the Canadian shore, the land rises very con
siderably just above the Falls. On the American shore it continues at
the same elevation. The whole country here, however, is a table-land,
and that table-land has a termination — an edge — over which the river
must fall before it can reach Lake Ontario. But that edee does not run
across the country at Niagara Falls, but along a line much nearer to
Lake Ontario, where it is a conspicuous feature in the landscape, and
is called Queenston Heights. The natural place, therefore, so to speak,
for the Falls would have been where the river came to that edge, and
from that point the river has all the appearance of having cut its way
backward in the course of time. Sir Charles Lyell, the eminent geolo
gist, came to the conclusion, from comparison of the rate at which the
cutting back had been observable within the memory of man, that this
cutting back is about one foot in each year. At this rate the river
would have taken 35,000 years to effect its retreat from Queenston to
the present position of the Falls. This is but a very short fathom-line
to throw out into the abysmal depths of geological time, and, making
every allowance for the possibility of any difference in rate, according
to variations of temperature or configuration, the principle of the cal
culation seems to be a sound one. The strata of layers of rock which
compose the geological formation can readily be seen in the gorge of
the river, and the process by which the cataract has eaten its way
back from Queenston can be readily perceived. At the level of the
brink of the Falls, where the waters make their final plunge, are thick
regular, and flat layers of limestone rock. Above and below these is
soft soluble shale. The running water wearing away the upper depos
its makes the inequalities which cause the rapids above the' Falls and
the reverberation and splash of the torrent as it falls have disintegrated
and washed out the soft red shale below, so that the limestone led"e is
left in overhanging masses until they break off with their own we?"ht
and piece after piece dropping into the depths beneath, the Falls con-

The American Falls.

NIAGARA FALLS. 9
tinue their ceaseless march commenced so many centuries ago. This
deep groove does seem to be a clear case of a ravine produced by a
known cause which can be seen now in actual operation. As far as
I could see, there is nothing to indicate that the ravine is due to a
' fault ' or a crack arising from subterranean disturbance, but the work
has been done by the process which has been described, and 35,000
years is, after all, but an insignificant fraction of what has been
occupied in the operations of geological time."
For a detailed description of the various points of interest at the
Falls, the tourist may depend on one of the various local guide-books,
which go into particulars in a way that can not be done in a work of
such range as the present. The following brief account, condensed
from Appletons' General Guide, will indicate the wealth of material
on which these local guide-books may exercise their powers of descrip
tion and imagination :
Goat Island is the point usually visited first. It is reached by a
bridge 360 ft. long, the approach to which is just in rear of the Cata
ract House, The bridge itself is an object of interest, from its ap
parently dangerous position. It is, however, perfectly safe, and is
crossed constantly by heavily laden carriages. The view of the rapids
from the bridge is one of the most impressive features of the Niagara
scenery. Below the bridge, a short distance from the verge of the
American Falls, is Chapin's Island, so named in memory of a work
man who fell into the stream while at work on the bridge. He lodged
on this islet and was rescued by a Mr. Robinson, who gallantly went to
his rescue in a skiff. About midway of the stream the road crosses
Bath Island. A short walk brings us to the foot-bridge leading to
Luna Island, a huge rock-mass of some three quarters of an acre, lying
between the Center Falls and the American Falls. The exquisite lunar
rainbows seen at this point, when the moon is full, have given it the
name it bears. Just beyond Luna Island a spiral stairway (called
" Biddle's Stairs," after Nicholas Biddle, of United States Bank fame,
by whose order they were built) leads to the foot of the cliff. From
the foot of the stairs, which are secured to the rocks by strong iron
fastenings, there are two diverging paths. That to the right leads to
the Cave of the Winds, a spacious recess back of the Center Falls.
Guides and water-proof suits for visiting the cave may be obtained at
the stairs (fee, $1.50), and the excursion is well worth making. You
can pass safely into the recess behind the water to a platform beyond.
Magical rainbow pictures are found at this spot ; sometimes bows of

10 NIAGARA FALLS.
entire circles and two or three at once are seen. A plank-walk has
been carried out to a cluster of rocks near the foot of the fall, and
from it one of the best views of the American Falls may be obtained.
The up-river way, along the base of the cliff toward the Horseshoe
Falls, is difficult and much obstructed by fallen rocks. It was from a
point near Biddle's Stairs that the renowned jumper, Sam Patch, made
two successful leaps into the water below (in 1829), saying to the
throng of spectators, as he went off, that " one thing might be done as
well as another." Reascending the stairs, a few minutes' walk along
the summit of the cliff brings us to a bridge leading to the islet on
which stood the famous Terrapin Tower, which having become danger
ous was blown up with gunpowder in 1 873. The view of the Horse
shoe Falls from this point is surpassingly grand. It was estimated by
Lyell that 1,500,000,000 cubic feet of water pass over the ledges every
hour. One of the condemned lake-ships (the Detroit) was sent over
this fall in 1829 ; and, though she drew 18 ft. of water, she did not
touch the rocks in passing over the brink of the precipice, showing
that the water is at least 20 ft. deep above the ledge.
At the other end of Goat Island (reached by a road from the Horse
shoe Falls), a series of graceful bridges leads to the Three Sisters, as
three small islets lying in the Rapids are called. On Goat Island, near
the Three Sisters, is the Hermit's Bathing-place, so called after Francis
Abbott, " The Hermit of Niagara," who used to bathe here, and who
finally drowned while doing so. At the foot of Grand Island, near the
Canada shore, is Navy Island, which was the scene of some interesting
incidents in the Canadian Rebellion of 1837-'38, known as the Macken
zie War. It was near Schlosser Landing, about 2 miles above the Falls,
on the American side, that during the war the American steamer Caro
line, which had been perverted to the use of the insurgents, was set
on fire and sent over the Falls by the order of Sir Allan McNab, a
Canadian officer.
The State of New York purchased, in 1885, the property bordering
the Falls, and laid out Niagara Park, to be controlled by a State Com
mission, empowered to remove all obstructions to the view, and to im
prove the grounds. No charge is made for admission to Niagara Park.
A " vertical railway," running on a steep incline, leads from the park
to the base of the cliff ; and from its foot the river may be crossed in
the steamboat the Maid of the Mist. The passage across the river is
perfectly safe, and is worth making for the very fine view of the Falls

NIAGARA FALLS. 11
obtained in mid-stream. A winding road along the cliff-side leads from
the landing on the Canadian side to the top of the bluff, near the Clif
ton House. By climbing over the rocks at the base of the cliff on the
American side (turn to the left after descending the railway), the tour
ist may penetrate to a point within the spray of the American Fall, and
get what is perhaps, on the whole, the finest view of it to be had.
The usual way of crossing to the Canadian side is over the New-
Suspension Bridge, which arches the river about one eighth of a
mile below the Falls, and is one of the curiosities of tho locality (fee
for pedestrians, 25c). It was finished in 1869, at a cost of $175,000;
is 1,190 ft. from cliff to cliff, 1,268 ft. from tower to tower, and 190 ft-
above the river; and it was widened in 1888, all the wooden parts of
the structure being replaced by iron. It was carried away by the gale
of January 10, 1889, but has been rebuilt. The tower on the American
side is 100 ft. high, and that on the Canadian side 105 ft. A road to
the left from the bridge terminus leads along the cliff, affording good
views of the American and Center Falls. A short distance above the
terrace near the Falls is the spot still called Table Rock, though the
immense overhanging platform originally known by that name has long
since fallen over the precipice. From this point the best front view of
the Falls is obtained, and that of the Horseshoe Fall is incomparably
grand. The concussion of the falling waters with those in the depths
below produces a spray that veils the cataract two thirds up its height.
Above this impenetrable foam to the height of 50 ft. above the Fall, a
cloud of lighter spray rises, which, when the sun shines upon it in the
proper direction, displays magnificent solar rainbows. The appro
priateness of the name Niagara (" Thunder of Waters ") is very evi
dent here. At Table Rock may be procured guides and water-proof suits
for the passage under the Horseshoe Falls (fee, 50c). This
passage (which no nervous person should attempt) is described as fol
lows by a writer in Picturesque America : " The wooden stairways are
narrow and steep, but perfectly safe ; and a couple of minutes brings
us to the bottom. Here we are in spray-land indeed: for we have
hardly begun to traverse the pathway of broken bits of shale when,
with a mischievous sweep, the wind sends a baby cataract in our direc
tion, and fairly inundates us. The mysterious gloom, with the thun
dering noises of the falling waters, impresses every one ; but, as the
pathway is broad, and the walking easy, new-comers are apt to think
there is nothing in it. The tall, stalwart negro, who acts as guide,

12 NIAGARA FALLS.
listens with amusement to such comments, and confidently awaits a
change in the tone of the scoffers. More and more arched do the
rocks become as we proceed. The top part is of hard limestone, and
the lower of shale, which has been so battered away by the fury of the
waters that there is an arched passage behind the entire Horseshoe
Fall, which could easily be traversed if the currents of air would let
us pass. But, as we proceed, we begin to notice that it blows a trifle,
and from every one of the 32 points of the compass. At first, how
ever, we get them separately. A gust at a time inundates us with
spray ; but the farther we march the more unruly is the Prince of Air.
First, like single spies, come his winds ; but soon they advance like
skirmishers ; and, at last, where a thin column of water falls across
the path, they oppose a solid phalanx to our efforts. It is a point of
nonor to see who can go farthest through these corridors of ^Eolus. It
is on record that a man, with an herculean effort, once burst, through
the column of water, but was immediately thrown to the ground, and
only rejoined his comrades by crawling face downward, and digging
his hands into the loose shale of the pathway. Prof. Tyndall has
gone as far as mortal man, and he describes the buffeting of the air as
indescribable, the effect being like actual blows with the fist."
Termination Rock is a short distance beyond Table Rock, at the
verge of the fall. The spray here is blinding, and the roar of waters
deafening. Below the Falls are several points of interest, which are best vis
ited on the American side. The first of these is the old Suspension
Bridge, which spans the gorge 2 miles below the Falls, and supports
railway-tracks, a roadway, and footways. The bridge is 245 ft. above
the water, and supported by towers on each bank, the centers of which
are 821 ft. apart. It was built in 1855 by the late John A. Roebling,
and cost $300,000. The fee for crossing the bridge is 25c. for pedes
trians, which confers the right to return free on the same day. From
one side of this bridge a fine distant view of the Falls is had, and
from the other a bird's-eye view of the seething, -tumultuous Whirl-
pool Rapids. Three hundred feet above may be seen the new Michi
gan Central R. R. Cantilever Bridge. By descending the elevator,
which leads from the top to the base of the cliff near the site of the
old Monteagle House, a nearer view is obtained of these wonderful
rapids, in which the waters rush along with such velocity that the mid
dle of the current is 30 ft. higher than the sides. Three miles below

Luna Falls and Bock of Ages.

NIAGARA TO TORONTO. 13
the Falls is the Whirlpool, occasioned by a sharp bend in the river,
which is here contracted to a width of 220 ft.
From Niagara to Toronto.
From Niagara Falls one has a choice of routes to Toronto. One
may go by the Grand Trunk around the head of the lake, or by rail to
the river bank below the Rapids, and thence by steamer straight across
Lake Ontario from the mouth of Niagara River. The land route (fare,
single, $2.65 ; return, $4.45), which is the longer, affords an oppor
tunity of seeing that magnificent engineering work the Welland Canal,
and of visiting the cities of St. Catharines and Hamilton. If one goes
by the river route (fare, single, $1.50 ; return, $2.30), one sees the
beauties of the Niagara district, the gardens of Canada, the storied
Queenston Heights, and the delightful summer resort of Niagara-on-
the-Lake, besides enjoying a cool sail of 40 miles across the waters
of Ontario. THE WATER ROUTE.
By this river route the tourist finds yet further latitude allowed
him. The journey from the Falls may be made either by the Michigan
Central to Niagara-on-the-Lake on the Canadian side, or along the
American shore by the New York Central to the wharf at Lewiston,
7 miles from the mouth, where one meets the fine Clyde- built steamers
of the " Niagara River Line," making connections across the lake four
times each day.
The New York Central runs through The Gorge itself, along a
ledge which has been carved out of the face of the cliff. Above towers
the beetling front of rock, and far below thunders the tremendous tor
rent. In the gorge of Niagara the water does not flow, or rush, or dart,
but it bounds and bursts as if belched forth from some hidden volcano.
Presently the mad flood is caught and enchained for a time in the sul
len vortex of tho Whirlpool. Of this unmythical Maelstrom one
catches a thrilling glimpse from the car window. Then the gorge nar
rows again ; and plunging through short tunnels, swerving dizzily on
its airy shelf, round jutting peaks, the road threads the windings of
the abyss, gradually descending, till it comes out upon the lower level
at Lewiston. Here is the head of navigation, and at the dock, to the
side of which the railway has now been extended, the tourist steps on
board the steamers. The river rests here in a great, slow-reeling eddy.

14 NIAGARA TO TORONTO.
In this eddy the steamer turns, and is grateful for the service of the
revolving current.
Opposite Lewiston rise Queenston Heights, the most famous
battle-field of the War of 1812. Here, for an autumn day, three
quarters of a century ago, raged a bitter struggle between the Ameri
can and Canadian forces, resulting at length in victory for the Cana
dians, who paid too dear for their triumph, however, with the death of
their heroic leader, General Sir Isaac Brock. May it prove an augury
of perpetual peace and good-will along these frontiers that when, two
days after the battle, General Brock was being buried in one of the
bastions of Fort George, minute-guns were fired from the American
Fort Niagara across the river, as a tribute of respect to their illustri
ous adversary !
On the summit of the Heights stands the monument which has
been erected in memory of the favorite hero of Canadians. This is
the second monument erected oil the spot, the earlier and smaller one,
built by a grant from the Provincial Parliament in 1824, having been
blown up in 1840 by a scoundrel named Lett. The new monument
was erected by the voluntary contributions of the militia and Indian
warriors of Canada. It is a massive stone structure 190 ft. in height,
19 ft. higher than Nelson's Column in Trafalgar Square. At the top,
beneath a colossal statue of Brock, is a gallery reached by 235 steps.
Standing on this gallery one sees unroll before him a matchless pano
rama, of battle-field and vineyard, of cataract and quiet stream, of
dark wood and steepled villages and breadths of peach-orchard, and
fortresses no longer hostile ; and far across the blue waters of Ontario
the smoke of the great city toward which our feet are set.
From Lewiston to Niagara-on-the-Lake the river flows for 1 miles
rapidly between high, wooded banks, studded with gardens and com
fortable homes. If the tourist has started on the Canadian side, the
Michigan Central R. R. takes him direct to Niagara-on-the-Lake. This
route, as it winds down the side of the Niagara escarpment, gives a
wide range over the fertile Niagara plains with all their glory of peach
gardens and vineyards, and also a distant view of Queenston Heights
and Brock's monument. But it must be acknowledged that it is as
much less picturesque as it is more convenient than that by crossing
to the American side.
Niagara-on-the-Lake, where of old the fortunes of peoples were
wont to be decided by the sword, where Indians, French, and British

NIAGARA TO TORONTO. 15
Americans and Canadians have contended for the supremacy of the
Lake regions, where the first Parliament of the old province of Upper
Canada was held in ancestral fashion in the shade of a spreading oak,
is now but a merry watering-place. In the neighborhood is the battle
field of Lundy's Lane, the scene of a hard-fought struggle between
Canadian and American forces. The chief episodes that now stir the
surface of Niagara's summer calm are the Saturday evening hops at
the Queen's Royal Hotel, which are attended by the American officers
from Fort Niagara opposite, and by gay yachting parties from Toronto.
The country round about is a garden ; there is capital bass-fishing to
be had, and the facilities for boating and bathing are not to be excelled.
In the days of its political and military importance the town bore the
more business-like name of Newark.
The run across from Niagara to Toronto occupies about two hours,
and in the tourist season the lake is usually unruffled. As Lake On
tario, however, is 180 miles long and about 70 in extreme breadth, it
possesses every facility for an occasional storm of genuine Atlantic
proportions. The Chicora and Cibola, of the " Niagara River Line,"
however, are Clyde-built ocean-going craft of steel, and maintain regu
lar service in all weathers, leaving Lewiston every week-day at 8 a. m.,
10.30 A. M., 12 noon, and 5.40 p. M., and Niagara-on-the-Lake half an
hour later. There are officers of the American and Canadian customs
on the boat to examine baggage during the trip across ; and the Niag
ara River Navigation Company issues through tickets and checks
through baggage in connection with the main railroad and steamboat
lines of Canada and America. Returning steamers leave Toronto 7
a. M., 11 A. M., 2 p. M., and 4.45 P. M.
THE JOUBNEY BY THE GRAND TRUNK R. R.
If one chooses to go by land around the head of the lake his way
lies through a fair country. The Grand Trunk Ry. runs from the
Falls to Hamilton, whence the Great Western division of the same
road carries the traveler eastward to Toronto. A few miles west of
Niagara is Merritton, where the railway plunges into a tunnel which
leads it under the Welland Canal. Merritton is otherwise known as
Thorold Station, as it is there that passengers leave the train for the
little town of Thorold on the canal. In this neighborhood is the bat
tle-field of Beaver Dams, which Canadians regard with pardonable
pride. During the War of 1812, when the Americans were in posses-

16 NIAGARA TO TORONTO.
sion of Fort George and Niagara and the British troops had fallen back
on Burlington (now Hamilton), the British general advised the Canadian
volunteers to disband and return to their homes, as he was contemplating
the possibility of abandoning all that section of the province to the foe
and retiring to Kingston. In this crisis, being thrown entirely upon
their own resources, the Canadians proved themselves equal to the
emergency. What followed has been thus described by Miss Louisa
Murray : " Merritt's militia regiment of light horse, with some other
militiamen and volunteers, established themselves at a building known
as ' De Cew's stone house,' converting it into a little fortress, whence
they harassed the Americans, driving off their foraging parties,
and intercepting their supplies, with such success and impunity as
only an intimate knowledge of the country could have given them.
Colonel Boerstler was sent from Niagara with two field-pieces and 600
men to break up this little stronghold, and one or two other outposts
of the British, who, since the decisive battle of Stony Creek, were
moving back toward Fort George, and he might have succeeded but
for the patriotic spirit and bravery of a woman. Laura Secord, the
young wife of James Secord, a militiaman lying wounded at Queens
ton, saw the American troops moving from Niagara, and, learning
their destination, set out at night, and walked twenty miles through
the woods to warn the little b.and at the stone house of Boerstler's ap
proach. At any time it would have been a difficult journey, but in war
time, with the risk of meeting some savage Indian or other lawless
marauder in the lonely woods, only a woman of singular energy and
courage would have undertaken it. Mrs. Secord, however, accom
plished it in safety, and when Colonel Boerstler arrived at Beaver
Dams at 6 o'clock in the morning, he found his march impeded by a
small number of militiamen, hastily collected, and a party of Indians
led by their chief, young Brant. This number, altogether about 200,
seemed trebled when seen through the thick foliage of the trees, from
among which they poured volley after volley from their muskets on
the surprised and bewildered Americans, every volley accompanied by
the fierce yells of the Indians. While Boerstler was still uncertain
whether to advance or retreat, Ensign Fitzgibbon, with 40 soldiers, the
only British troops in the neighborhood, arrived at the spot and took
in the situation at once. With admirable courage and coolness, he
tied a white handkerchief on a musket, and, holding it up, advanced
alone, calling on the enemy to lay down their arms and surrender ¦

NIAGARA TO TORONTO. 17
upon which Colonel Boerstler, believing that the whole British army
was in front, surrendered his force of 600 infantry, 50 cavalry, 2 field-
guns, and a stand of colors, to the young ensign and his 240 men."
The victory is commemorated by a small granite monument, with the
inscription "Beaver Dams, June 24, 1813." The heroic achievement
of Laura Secord has been made the subject of a historical drama by
Mrs. S. A. Curyon, and of a stirring ballad by Charles Mair.
The city of St. Catharines is on the Welland Canal, about 3 miles
from its Lake Ontario outlet. The trade center of this inexhaustibly
fertile Niagara region, and supplied with unlimited water-power by
means of the canal, St. Catharines has become an important commer
cial city. It is purely a product of the canal, and owes its existence
as a city to the indomitable energy of William Hamilton Merritt, who
conceived the idea of the great engineering work and finally pushed it
to completion. St. Catharines has important ship-yards, mills, and
machine-works ; handsome public buildings, first-class hotels, and one
of the best collegiate institutes in the province. It is also a very
popular health resort, much visited by Southerners. The waters of its
mineral springs rank high among the medicinal waters of the world.
There is fishing in the neighborhood for black bass, perch, and
pickerel. Chief hotel the Welland House ($2).
The Welland Canal, connecting the waters of Lakes Erie and
Ontario, is a work of tremendous importance, giving as it does an out
let to the sea for the vast trade of the Great Lakes. The canal is 27
miles in length from Port Colborne on Lake Erie to Port Dalhousie on
Lake Ontario. The difference in level between the lakes is about 327
ft., which is overcome by a system of 25 lift-locks. All the masonry
of the work is of splendid and massive proportions, and is built of an
enduring gray limestone. At Welland the canal is led over the Chip
pewa River by a costly aqueduct. The original feeder of the canal was
the Chippewa River, which proving at times inadequate, a branch canal
was cut to the Grand River. Of late, however, arrangements have
been made by which the canal is always adequately supplied from
Lake Erie itself. Along the line of the canal are strung a number of
prosperous villages. The first sod of the original canal was turned in
1824. Mr. Merritt's modest conception was a canal " 4 ft. deep, 7 ft.
wide at bottom, 19 ft. wide at the water surface, and to accommodate
vessels not exceeding 40 tons burden." The present structure has a
width at the bottom of 100 ft., and accommodates vessels of 1,500 tons.

18 NIAGARA TO TORONTO.
Leaving St. Catharines our train passes the villages of Jordan and
Beamsville, and 27 miles from Niagara we find ourselves at the busy
village of Grimsby. Here is the summer resort of Grimsby Park,
with its famous Methodist camp-meeting ground in a grove of oaks and
pines beside the lake. The region about Grimsby is literally one great
peach-orchard. It is estimated that there are something like 400,000
peach-trees in the Niagara district, which ships annually over a million
baskets of this delicious fruit. The beauty of the peach-orchards,
whether in bloom or when bending under their wealth of luscious pink
and white and golden spheres, is something that beggars description.
The peach harvest begins about the end of July and continues until
the middle of October. The peaches are shipped all over Canada in
baskets covered with pink gauze. In this favored region flourish also
apples, pears, plums, cherries, all kinds of small fruits, melons, quinces,
grapes, walnuts, chestnuts, and even figs. Beyond Grimsby we have
only the stations of Winona and Stony Creek to pass before we come
to Hamilton. Hamilton.
The chief hotel of Hamilton is the Royal ($2.50 to $4 per day),
which is first class in every respect ; but there are many other good
hotels, such as the St. Nicholas ($1.50 to $2) and the Dominion ($1 to
$1.50), where the tourist may be accommodated more cheaply. The
city is well supplied with restaurants, called coffee-rooms. The chief
club is the Hamilton Club. Theatres, the Grand Opera-House, Asso
ciation Hall, Alexandra Arcade. The city is traversed by street-cars,
and hacks are to be obtained at the station and the cab-stands as
well as at the chief hotels.
The city of Hamilton is beautifully and fortunately situated at
the head of navigation on Lake Ontario. Across the upper end of the
lake, where the northern and southern shores stand but 5 miles apart,
the east winds of centuries have heaped together a long bar of sand
nearly a thousand feet in width. This is known as Burlington
Beach, and it cuts off from the stormy lake the quiet waters of Bur
lington Bay, the harbor of Hamilton. A short canal through the Beach
connects the inner and the outer waters. The Beach is a favorite sum
mer resort for the citizens of Hamilton.
Hamilton lies at the foot of a steep hill called the " Mountain," and
occupies one of those " benches " which surround the lake, and prob
ably mark a, former level of its surface. The site of Hamilton was
chosen originally by a loyalist refugee, one Robert Land, on account

NIAGARA TO TORONTO. 19
of its splendid landscape. The "Mountain" is a portion of the
Niagara escarpment, which here curves grandly back from the lake to
form the amphitheatre which the city occupies. Down a great slopin"
strath, dividing the heights in this neighborhood like a gigantic gut
ter, at the foot of which now lies the town of Dundas, geologists tell
us that, in remotest ages, the waters of Lake Erie discharged them
selves, instead of at Niagara.
Hamilton may be said to have had its birth in the War of 1812,
when Burlington Heights became a center of military operations, and
one George Hamilton cut up his farm into town lots. In 1824 the cut
ting of a canal through Burlington Beach began the prosperity of Ham
ilton, which, however, was sadly interfered with by the cholera plague
and great fire in 1832. Hamilton was not disheartened, and went to
work again with the pluck and spirit which have earned her the title
of " the Ambitious City." Her ambition bids fair to be gratified in all
save one particular — and in that she has by this time relinquished all
hope. Of old, she thought to outstrip Toronto; but when, in 1888,
with a population less than 45,000, she saw Toronto with 170,000, she
probably changed the tenor of her ambition to something more within
the range of possibility. Her ancient rivals, Ancaster and Dundas,
she has long ago left utterly behind, reducing them to (he rank of sub
urban villages.
Hamilton is a wealthy and tirelessly energetic city, with manufact
uring interests out of all proportion to its size. It is the cathedral city
of two dioceses, the Anglican bishopric of Niagara and the Roman
Catholic bishopric of Hamilton. The city has handsome pub'ic build
ings, and stately private residences on the Mountain. Cresting the
height are the spacious buildings of the Lunatic Asylum. A stately
thoroughfare, dividing the city from the Mountain to the bay, is McNab
St., named for Hamilton's hero, the politician, patriot, and soldier,
Sir Allan McNab. It was he who, during the rebellion in 1837, shat
tered the power of the rebels at Toronto, and organized the flotilla on
the Niagara which cut out the steamer Caroline and sent her over
the Falls. On the heights stands Dundurn Castle, where Sir Allan used
to live, looking out over the city whose prosperity he had done so much
to promote. One of the most delightful features of Hamilton is what is
known as " The Gore." This is a spacious and beautiful public gar
den in the heart of the city, with the busiest thoroughfares all about
it. The open space, which is cool and musical with fountains and brill-

20 NIAGARA TO TORONTO.
iant with flowers, is triangular in shape, and formed by the converging
of York, James, and King Sts. Overlooking " The Gore " are the
thoroughly artistic buildings of the Hamilton Provident and Loan
Society, the Canada Life Assurance Company, and the Court-House.
But 6 miles from Hamilton, and connected with it by a steam tramway,
is Dundas. In one thing Dundas can never be outrivaled by Hamilton
and that is in her magnificent landscape, which opens like a dream be
fore the traveler's eyes as he sweeps around the mountain. At the
foot of the lovely Dundas Valley lies a wide marsh which goes by
the nickname of " Coote's Paradise," after an English officer, Captain
Coote, who was deeply enamored of the fine duek, snipe, and " coot "
shooting there to be obtained. The marsh still maintains its repu
tation ; and in Burlington Bay are good black bass, silver bass, perch,
and pike fishing. The pike take the trolling-spoon freely during
the latter part of August, but at other times rise better to the live
minnow. From Hamilton to Toronto, if wearied of the rail, one may go by
the steamers of the Hamilton Steamboat Co., four times daily (fare,
75c), a trip of 33 'miles along a pleasant coast. The boats are fast
and comfortable, and call each way at Burlington Beach and at the
vast strawberry-gardens of Oakville. The tourist desirous of visiting
the Northern Lakes, or what is perhaps more widely known as the
Muskoka region, may branch off by the Northern and Western R. R.
from Hamilton via Beeton and Barrie, and leave Toronto till his re
turn, but the fastest train services center in Toronto. Beeton is of
interest as the center of tho great honey industry of Ontario. The
whole surrounding country is full of bee farms, and sweet the summer
through with the scent of honey-bearing blossoms. The pedigrees of
the swarms are watched with the same care that breeders of thorough
bred cattle give to their stock, and solitary islands in Georgian Bay,
to the north, are made use of as bee nurseries to preserve the purity
of the favorite strains. The science of apiculture at Beeton has been
brought to a high degree of perfection. At Barrie, on Lake Simcoe,
we meet the Northern road from Toronto.
Toronto.
The approach to Toronto is more effective by water than by land.
As the steamer passes Gibraltar Point, she rounds into a safe and
spacious harbor crowded with the traffic of the lakes. This harbor is

TORONTO. 21
formed by what is known as The Island, which is the great summer
pleasure-ground for the inhabitants of the city. The Island is to
Toronto what Coney Island and Manhattan Beach are to New York.
It is really nothing more than a great sand-bank formed by the drift
and offscourings from Scarboro' Heights, and its shape is continually
changing. The lighthouse on Gibraltar Point, built within a few feet
of the water, stands now some distance inland. A few years ago the
Island was connected with the mainland by a strip o f beach to the
east, but storms having breached the isthmus at Ashbridge's Bay, a
narrow channel was formed which has since been widening. The Isl
and is fringed with lightly-built-summer cottages whose thresholds arc
ceaselessly invaded by the sand drift. All summer the white beaches
swarm with merry life and the shallow pools with bathers. High over
the cottages and the willow thickets tower the gable3 of a great summer
hotel, which was built by Hanlon, the ex-champion oarsman of the
world. The hotel is surrounded with dancing pavilions and roller-
coasters and merry-go-rounds, and bands play in front of it through
the summer evenings. Between the island and the city pass and re
pass the unremitting ferries.
Toronto, the " Queen City," as we Canadians fondly call her, slopes
very gently from the lake's edge back to the wooded line of the Daven
port Hills. The almost level expanse of her sea of roofs is broken
with many spires and with the green crowns of innumerable elms and
horse-chestnuts. All through her temperate summers her streets are
deliciously shadowed ; all through her mild winters the sunlight
streams in freely through the naked branches.
From the Don's mouth on the E. to the Humber on the W., a dis
tance of 8 miles, the city stretches an unbroken front along the rim of
the lake. Between these limits is gathered a population of about 200,000
— a population which is increasing at a rate with which few other cities
on the continent can compare. Already she begins to reach out beyond
her containing streams. All Ontario and much of our Northwest,
regions growing rapidly in wealth and population, are tributary to her,
and must continue to nourish her growth. No other city on the lakes,
with the exception of Chicago, has fairer prospects for the future than
Toronto. The very name Toronto signifies " a place of meeting," a place where
men are gathered together. The first mention of the name is in some
French memoirs of 1686, where it is applied to the Portage from the

22 TORONTO.
Humber to Lake Simcoe. In tho sheltered harbor at the Ontario end
of the trail the French erected a fort, the remains of which are yet to
be seen in the exhibition grounds. To this post, at first called Fort
Rouille, the name Fort Toronto was afterward given.
THE HISTORY OF TORONTO.
Ontario, as a separate province, is the creation of the United Empire
Loyalists, and Toronto was the creation of Governor Simcoe, the first
governor of the new province. These United Empire Loyalists, whose
experiences and whose work in province-building we shall again refer
to when writing of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, were inhabit
ants of tho thirteen counties to the south who remained loyal to the
mother-country during the American Revolution. They were an ener
getic and fearless people, possessing fully the courage of their convic
tions, and not unnaturally the feeling between them and their insurgent
fellow-countrymen was implacably bitter. When the independence of
the Thirteen Colonies was acknowledged, their position was difficult in
the extreme. They could not accept the new order, and to the new
order they were hopelessly unacceptable. They had staked everything
on the triumph of England, and to England they now looked for help.
They were given lands in Canada and Nova Scotia ; and their splendid
energy and courage carried them through difficulties and hardships un
der which a weaker people would have succumbed. A very large pro
portion of them belonged to the educated and cultured classes. Their
groat exodus from under the shadow of the new flag took place in the
years 1783 and 1784; but when the new province of Upper Canada
was organized under the wise supervision of Governor Simcoe, addi
tional parties flocked in, and in the four years from 1791 to 1795 their
numbers increased in that province from 12,000 to 30,000. Prominent
among the United Empire Loyalists were the Indians of the Six Na
tions, under their great and humane warrior-chieftain, Joseph Brant or
Thayendanagea. These faithful allies were granted a fertile territory
along the course of the Grand River.
As we have already mentioned, Niagara-on-the-Lake was the first
capital of Upper Canada. Gradually it was borne in upon the pro
vincial authorities that a town like Niagara, within range of American
guns, was ill adapted to be the seat of government. Thereupon the
capital was shifted to the " Place of Meeting," across the lake, and
the infant executive felt more secure. The significant and musical

TORONTO. 23
name, however, was changed, and Toronto became York. What
are significance and beauty when weighed in the balance against a
compliment to the heir-apparent? This was in 1793; but though
the old name was exiled from the village it seemed to cling in the
hearts of the inhabitants. The name of York was worn like an ill-
fitting garment. "Muddy York" it was called by derisive but not
unenvious neighbors. And when, in 1834, the village took unto itself
the title and the dignity of a city, the name of York, with its contume
lious epithet, was eagerly sloughed off, and the " Place of Meeting " re
sumed its ancient title. In 1 794 there were but 1 2 houses at Toronto,
and when the War of 1S12 broke out this provincial capital, now the
second city in the Dominion, contained but 900 inhabitants.
In the War of 1812 Toronto was twice captured by the Americans,
who destroyed the fortifications and sacked the towu, after a struggle
lasting from early morning to sundown, when the English general,
considering the position untenable, abandoned it when he found him
self confronted with a vastly superior force. The Canadian militia,
who bore the brunt of the war, preferred to select some more advan
tageous battle-ground than the exposed provincial capital. All through
this war the chief honors, in the land battles, fell generally to the
Canadian arms. On the American side the war was strongly disap
proved of by the best men ; its object being thus sarcastically charac
terized by Randolph of Virginia : " The people of Canada are first to
be seduced from their allegiance, and converted into traitors, as a
preparation for making them good American citizens." The spirit
with which the Canadians went into the contest is thus described by
Colonel G. T. Denison : "In 1812 every able-bodied man went to the
frontier to fight, leaving the old men, the boys, and the women to till
the fields. One might travel a day's journey in this province during
that war without meeting an able bodied man, as they were all on the
frontier." In 1837 occurred the rebellion of William Lyon Mackenzie, who
called himself " Chairman pro tern, of the Provisional Government of the
State of Upper Canada." The foolish self-styled patriots established
what they called a Provisional Government on Navy Island in the Niag
ara River ; but the rebel rendezvous was a place known as " Mont
gomery's Tavern,'7 on Yonge St., a few miles north of the city lim
its. With a force of about 900 men the rebels threatened Toronto ;
but when the " Men of Gore " arrived, under Colonel McNab, the rebel

24 TORONTO.
bands were scattered after a short but sharp struggle. Soon afterward
took place the destruction of the steamer Caroline, already referred to.
This exploit has been thus described by Dr. Bryce :
" The Provisional Government was now organized on Navy Island,
in the Niagara River. The patriot flag, with twin stars and the motto,
' Liberty and Equality,' was hoisted, and planted in the face of Colonel
McNab, who held the Canadian shore. A daring action was performed
on December 23 by Captain Drew, R. N., one of McNab's command.
The insurgents had made use of a vessel, the Caroline, in carrying sup
plies from the American shore to Navy Island. The vessel lay moored
for the night under the very guns of Fort Schlosser ; indeed, the shadows
of the fort enveloped the Caroline. With 7 boats, carrying some 60
men in all, who were armed with pistols, cutlasses, and pikes, the
captain boarded the ill-fated vessel, captured her, but not being able,
on account of the current, to bring her to the Canadian side, sent her
flaming over the Niagara Falls. The vessel proved to be an American
bottom, and so Britain was compelled to disavow the seizure, but noth
ing could blot out the bravery of the deed."
THE TORONTO OF THE PRESENT.
Hotels, etc. — The Queen's Hotel ($3 to $4), in Front St.; the
Rossin Bouse ($3 to $4) and the Palmei1 House ($2), cor. King and
York Sts. ; Walker House ($2 and $2.50), Front and York Sts. ; the
Arlington ($2 to $3), King and John Sts. ; and the Revere House, in
King St. Horse-cars (fare, 5c) render all parts of the city easily
accessible. Cab rates are $1 an hour. From depot or Niagara steam
er's dock to hotel, 25c. The chief clubs are the National, Toronto,
and Albany Clubs ; also the Victoria, Granite, Athenaeum, Press, and
the various political clubs. Theatres: Grand Opera-House, Shaftes
bury Hall, Academy of Music, Jacobs & Sparrow's Opera-House,
Horticultural Gardens, and Robinson's Musee.
The Toronto of the present offers many attractions to the visitor.
It is the best possible place to pause and lay one's plans. It may fairly
claim to be called the intellectual center of the Dominion. Filled with
a homogeneous and successful population, looking back upon a past of
wonderful achievement, and forward to a future bright with all pos
sibilities, it is instinct with the sanguine and self-reliant spirit of this
young Canadian people. Its hotels are of the best ; its open water-
front and quiet harbor offer every facility for boating, canoeing, and
yachting. There is charming scenery in the immediate neighborhood,
and within easy reach are the gigantic maskinonge and swarming trout
and black bass of the wild Muskoka waters.
The principal street of Toronto, as it was of the original village, is

TORONTO. 25
King St., running E. and W. between the Don and the Dumber.
Where now stands the old jail were erected the first Houses of Parlia
ment of Upper Canada. These were wooden buildings and of no
great architectural distinction. During the War of 1812 they were
burned with the Library and the provincial records, by the American
invaders. This injury was avenged a few months later, when a Brit
ish force destroyed the public buildings at Washington. Opposite the
spot where now towers the noble structure of St. James's Cathedral was
once the market-place. Here stood the stocks and pillory, which were
in use up to 1834. Either the men of Toronto were less gallant in
those days, or her women less deserving, for we find in the town rec
ords that one Elizabeth Ellis, convicted of being a public nuisance, was
condemned to stand in the pillory for two hours at a time on two suc
cessive market-days. The women of Toronto are still held up to the
gaze of the world, but it is for the world's admiration, as they display
some of the most attractive types of Canadian beauty. Next in im
portance to King St. is Yonge, which runs at right angles to it. (See
plan.) If we may accept the authority of George Augustus Sala, this
is the longest street in the world. It runs N. from the water's edge,
and was laid out in 1 793, to be used as a portage to the upper lakes.
The object of this was to avoid the necessity of ascending Lake Erie
and passing under the guns of the American fort at Detroit. For the
first 46 miles of its extent Yonge St. became the main artery of the
province, and was speedily lined with homesteads. Apropos of the
" magnificent distances " of this thoroughfare the following anecdote
may be quoted from an entertaining and valuable work by Dr. Scad-
ding, entitled " Toronto of Old " : A story is told of a tourist, newly
arrived at York, wishing to utilize a stroll before breakfast by making
out as he went along the whereabouts of a gentleman to whom he had
a letter. Passing down the hall of his hotel he asked, in a casual way
of the book-keeper, " Can you tell me where Mr. So-and-so lives ? "
(leisurely producing the note from his breast pocket) ; " it is somewhere
along Yonge St. here in town." " Oh, yes," was the reply, when the
address had been glanced at, " Mr. So-and-so lives on Yonge St., about
25 miles up ! "
At the corner of King and Yonge Sts. throbs the heart of the city.*
* This is the most convenient point from which to calculate dis
tances when arranging for drives through the suburbs. The following

26 TORONTO.
From King St. northward to the city limits Yonge St. is lined with
fine retail establishments. From King St. S. to the water it is built
up with massive warehouses. This applies equally to Front St., which
skirts the harbor. At the water-front of Yonge stands the Custom-
House, a piece of elaborately decorated Italian architecture. Between
Front St. and the water to the W. of Yonge lies a low flat known as
the Esplanade. Here the various converging railways enter the city,
and here at the foot of York St., where in 1851 the Countess of Elgin
turned the first sod of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron R.R., stands
the Union Station. The interest of Front St. may be said to terminate
at the old Parliament Buildings, soon to give place to the splendid
structures which are being erected in Queen's Park. Toronto is a city
of churches, there being over 120 churches and chapels within its bor
ders. This being the case, it goes without saying that Sunday is relig
iously observed as a day of rest. Except when the churches are draw
ing in or pouring forth their demurely pacing throngs, the city seems
asleep; and from seven -o'clock on Saturday evening until a seemly
hour on Monday morning no one can gain admittance to the bar-rooms
—except by the back door! A little E. of the corner of Yonge is St.
James's Cathedral, at the junction of King and Church Sts. This
building is of simple and noble design, in what is known as perpendic
ular Gothic. Its spire, soaring to a height of 316 ft., is with one excep
tion the loftiest on the continent ; the newly completed spires of St.
Patrick's Cathedral in New York reach the height of 328 ft. Within
the tower of St. James's Cathedral is an exquisite chime of bells, and
all Toronto prides itself on tho celebrated clock of St. James's, which

table of ways and distances I take from Mr. Barlow Cumberland's use
ful handbook to " The Northern Lakes of Canada." :
Distances out and back from Corner of King and Yonge Streets.
East. — The Lake Shore Fioad, Woodbine, Ben Lomond, Don and
Danforth Road, and the Necropolis — 8-| miles.
Northeast — Necropolis, Todmorden, Don Valley, Eglington, Mount
Pleasant — 6-J- miles.
North.— Queen's Park, Deer Park, Ridge Road, St. Albans St., St.
George St. — 6 miles.
Northwest.— College St., Bloor St., Slattery's High Park, Queen
St., and Subway — 8-J miles.
West.— King St., Lake Shore Road, Humber Bay and back— 9
miles.

TORONTO. 27
won the first prize at the Vienna Exhibition. The interior of the cathe
dral contains monuments to some of the distinguished sons of Ontario,
and to that strong old ecclesiastic, Bishop Strachan, than whom few pas
tors have been better able to rule their flocks. The chancel windows
are fine examples of the best stained-glass work of Munich. St. James's
Cathedral is the fourth church which has occupied the present site, fire
having removed its three predecessois. From the tower a magnificent
view may be had of Toronto and her surroundings.
Some important buildings in the neighborhood of St. James's Ca
thedral are the St. Lawrence Hall and Market, the old City Hall, the ad
mirably managed Public Library, at the corner of Adelaide and Church
Sts., and the Post-Office, on Adelaide at the head of Toronto St. This
short thoroughfare is the Wall St. of Toronto. A little to the W. of
the Post-Office is the Grand Opera-House, on whose spacious stage
have moved the most brilliant modern actors. This theatre has a seat
ing capacity of 2,300.
Moving westward along King St., we come to a stately piece of Nor
man architecture, the Presbyterian Church of St. Andrew's, at the
corner of King and Simcoe. Opposite St. Andrew's is Government
House, a handsome building of modern French design. The main en
trance is on Simcoe St., under a spacious and elaborate carriage porch.
The gardens are broad and well kept, and the little valley winding
through them was once Russell's Creek, up which Governor Simcoe
used to row when the infant capital was but a lake-side clearing. The
dining-room at Government House contains a fine collection of por
traits. Permission to view the interior must be obtained from the
A. D. C. Just beyond Government House, in the midst of ample
grounds, is Upper Canada College ; and close by is John St., at the
head of which is the fine old colonial mansion of The Grange, the
home of Goldwin Smith. On the earriage-way of the Grange estate,
some threescore years ago, tradition hath it that the owner's horses
were attacked by bears as they were being driven up to the doorway.
Continuing along King St. to the Central Prison, one may turn S. again
to the water and visit the old and new forts, parade-ground, and well-
kept exhibition-grounds with their Crystal Palace. Still moving W.,
we pass through Parkdale, where stand the Home for Incurables and
the Mercer Reformatory ; and we end our wanderings in this direction
among the picnic-grounds of High Park on the Humber.
If we return by way of Queen St., we pass the Provincial Lunatic

28 TORONTO.
Asylum and the graceful buildings of Trinity University in their
ample and park-like grounds. Trinity is a Church of England institu
tion, and was founded by the indomitable Bishop Strachan when old
King's College of Upper Canada was secularized and became the Uni
versity of Toronto. Trinity University is a piece of sound and excel
lent architecture, of the period known as Pointed English, and is built
of white brick dressed with gray stone.
On Queen St., between Yonge and College Ave., is Osgoode Hall,
the seat of the Superior Courts of the Province, of the Law Society,
and the Law School. The building is named after the first Chief-
Justice of Upper Canada, and cost $300,000. The exterior has an air
of solid magnificence. The interior is of unusual beauty, and contains
a library of 30,000 volumes. Of Osgoode Hall Anthony Trollope said,
in his work on North America, that it was to Upper Canada what the
Four Courts of Dublin are to Ireland, and that the comparison would
result to the advantage of the Canadian edifice.
College Ave. is a broad boulevard running N. from Queen St.
to Queen's Park, Toronto's chief pleasure-ground. This avenue is
1 20 feet wide and a mile in length, and shaded by unbroken lines of
elm and horse-chestnut. It enters the park under the muzzles of a
battery of Russian cannon, spoils of Sebastopol. Turning to the left the
carriage-way skirts the edge of a ravine and passes the Volunteers'
Monument, erected to the memory of Canadians who fell in the Fenian
raid of 1866. Opposite stands the bronze statue of the Hon. George
Brown, one of the chief statesmen of Canada, and founder of the To
ronto Globe. This statue is a fine piece of sculpture, and was done by
Burch, of London. Queen's Park is a portion of the estate of Toronto
University, and was handed over to the city on a perpetual lease.
The university grounds and buildings adjoin tho park on the W. The
buildings were destroyed by fire a short time ago, and the loss was one
of the most serious that the city has ever sustained. It is not too
much to say that the main building was the finest piece of college
architecture in the New World. In design it belonged to the Norman
period, and the square central tower was of peculiarly noble and satis
fying proportions. In Convocation Hall was a fine stained-glass win
dow of three lights, in memory of the students who fell in defend
ing the frontier in 1866. The deep carved porch was famous for its
solidity and richness. The buildings, however, have been com
pletely restored, and fully equal in all respects the original buildings.

TORONTO. 29
Across the lawn stands the Observatory, the home of the meteorologi
cal department of the Dominion, commonly known as " Old Probabili
ties." Alongside of the Observatory stands a distressingly crude struct
ure of red brick, the eyesore of the lovely neighborhood. This is the
School of Technology. At the head of the park is a fine structure of
brown Credit Valley stone, faced with red brick. This is McMaster
Hall, of McMaster University, and was presented to the Baptist
denomination by the late Senator McMaster. A little W. of McMaster
Hall stands the gray-stone pile of Knox College, belonging to the Pres
byterian Church ; and in the immediate neighborhood stands Victoria
University, of the Methodist Church.
Though the growth of Toronto is chiefly toward the west and north,
the handsomest residences are probably east of Yonge, on Jarvis and
Sherbourne Sts., and on various cross-streets connecting them. On the
corner of Gerard and Sherbourne art the Horticultural Gardens,
which were opened by the Prince of Wales in 1860. They occupy a
square of 10 acres, and were presented to the city by the Hon. George
Allan. Entrance to the grounds is free between the hours of 8 a. h.
and 6 p. m. On the west side of the gardens, close to Church St.,
stand the Pavilion Music Hall and the Conservatories. The Pavilion
has seating accommodation for 3,000 people, and some of the best musi
cal talent of the continent appears upon its stage. The annual festi
vals of the Philharmonic and Choral Societies are held therein. A
short distance down Church St. is the great Metropolitan Church
of the Methodists. Its organ is the largest in Canada and one of the
finest in the world, containing as it does 3,315 pipes and 53 stops.
The famous organ of Strasburg Cathedral has 46, and that of Westmin
ster Abbey 32. Near the Metropolitan Church stands St. Michael's
Cathedral, the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop. On Church
St. also is the Normal School, with the offices of the Depart
ment of Education. The buildings occupy the center of an open
square, covering 7 or 8 acres. The gardens are attractive and of
special interest to the student. The Normal School contains a fine
gallery of paintings and statues, where the visitor will find many valu
able originals and reproductions of most of the masterpieces of ancient
art. Entrance to the art galleries of the Normal School is free on week
days from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Tourists who are interested in art will do
well to visit the exhibition-rooms of the Ontario Society of Artists, 14
King St., West. Whatever they may be interested in, they will do

30 THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT.
well to visit the lovely and aristocratic suburb of Rosedale ; and they
will do well to pay this visit at a time when Canada's national game is
being played at the Rosedale Lacrosse Grounds. Lacrosse is a game
lacking most of the defects of foot-ball, but possessing all the pre-emi
nent merits of that most manly sport. Toronto has produced some of
the most skillful Lacrosse players of Canada — that is to say, of the
world ; and Toronto boys, one might almost say, are born with a " stick "
in their hands. The Toronto Base-ball Grounds are situated on Kings
ton Road. The Muskoka District.
The best side-trip to be taken from Toronto is that to the lake
country of Muskoka lying N. of Toronto, between Georgian Bay and
the Ottawa River. Fares are as follows : Toronto to Beaumaris and
return, $5.30 ; Pt. Cockburn and return, $6.50 ; Rousseau and re
turn, $6.25 ; Wagnetawan and return, $7.95 ; Burk's Falls and re
turn, $6.95. A quarter of a century ago this region was a total wil
derness ; but now its tangle of lakes and streams is dotted with
villages and summer hotels. Railroads traverse it as far N. as Lake
Nipissing, and steamboats ply upon its principal waters. The innu
merable lakes are of all sizes, from 40 miles in length down to as many
rods. All are clear, deep, and cool, and swarm with brook trout, lake
trout, black bass, and perch ; while the covers and reed beds abound
with feathered game, and deer are fairly numerous. In some of these
northern waters may be taken that fish of many aliases, the " Tiger of
the Lakes," the gigantic maskinonge, or muscalonge. The Muskoka
district proper lies to the N. of the high divide at Gravenhurst, and
comprises a territory about the size of Belgium. Within this area lie
something over 800 lakes. The district south of Gravenhurst is long
settled, but contains some excellent fishing and shooting grounds,
about the lovely waters of Lakes Simcoe, Sparrow, and Coucbiching.
Taking the Northern and Northwestern R. R., now a portion of the
Grand Trunk system, we skirt the city to the W. and turn N. to the
water-shed, where streams diverge toward Lake Huron. Emerging
from the hills the train winds through the pleasant vale of Aurora,
with its sweet old-country landscapes. Passing the little country town
of Newmarket, we catch a glimpse of the infant stream of Holland
River, which was of old the path of Indians and voyageurs who had
just made the portage from Toronto. By Holland River also came the

THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT. 31
war parties of the Iroquois to slaughter the Ilurons on Lake Simcoe and
Georgian Bay. The drowsy village of Holland landing was once
a busy mart, when, before the days of railroading, all the traffic of the
northern settlements passed in heavy wagons through its streets. In
1825 Sir John Franklin called at Holland Landing on his first expedi
tion overland to the north pole. On the village green may be seen a
huge anchor, which was brought from the Royal Dockyards in England,
and hauled hither from the lake by 1 6 yoke of oxen. It was destined
for the Provincial Navy- Yard at Penetanguishene, where a fleet was
being built for warfare on the lakes. The great anchor was stopped
in the middle of its journey by the declaration of peace between Eng
land and the United States.
At Bradford, a little farther down the river, there is good trolling
for maskinonge, and there are some fine snipe covers in the neighbor
hood. At Lefroy we get the first glimpse of Lake Simcoe, a splendid
sheet of water, 30 miles long by 16 broad ; and a little beyond is Allan-
dale Junction, whence three lines radiate northward — the Muskoka
Branch to Muskoka and Lake Nipissing, the Penetanguishene Branch,
and the Collingwood Branch. Just N. of Allandale Junction lies the
county town of Barrie, set picturesquely on the hillside sloping down
to the lake. Barrie (population, 4,855 last census ; hotel, Queen's,
$1 .50) is a charming summer resort, with good fishing streams in the
neighborhood and innumerable boats and yachts. Nine miles down
Kempenfeldt Bay is a great summer hotel at Big Bay Point. Joined
to Lake Simcoe by a channel called the Narrows lies the breezy water
of Lake Couchiching, which, being interpreted, is the "Lake of
Many Winds." At the head of the lake is the pretty town of Orillia
(hotels, Orillia House and Russell House, $1.50), with its beautiful
pleasure grounds of Couchiching Park. This is the highest region
in Ontario, being 750 ft. above Toronto. The air here is very clear
and pure, and the waters of the lake are excellently stocked with
black bass, pickerel, and salmon-trout. At Rama, on this lake, is
a settlement of Ojibway Indians, the last remnants of the once pow
erful tribe that peopled the shores of Lakes Simcoe and Couchi
ching to the number of at least 25,000. At Orillia the tourist may,
if he prefers, take the steamer 14 miles down the lake, and rejoin
the train at Washago. Here begins the splendid fishing stream of
the Severn, which runs through deer, duck, and grouse grounds,
through wild rapids, and over Severn Falls, and drains the whole

32 THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT.
Simcoe region into Georgian Bay. A short distance below Washago
the Severn widens out into Sparrow Lake, famous for its maskinonge
and black bass, and its duck and grouse shooting. A good canoe
trip, for which Indians and canoes may be hired at Rama, is that
from Couchiching to Gravenhurst, with short portages, through Beaver,
Legs, and Pine Lakes. A more exciting trip, through some sharp and
intricate rapids, is down the Severn River to its outlet. Guide and
canoe may be obtained at Rama or Orillia, at a cost of about $2 a day.
Crossing the river by a lofty bridge, the railroad forsakes the pale
limestone formations of the Simcoe region and enters a land of red
granite, nither and thither amid the high and glistening bluffs of the
" divide " winds the train, till at last through Granite Notch it
emerges upon the highlands of Muskoka. At the southernmost ex
tremity cf Lake Muskoka, the largest of the series, stands the busy
town of Gravenhurst, 115 miles from Toronto. Gravenhurst is
very picturesquely situated on the high shores of an inlet. It has
a population of about 2,000, and good hotels, the Albion, Windsor,
and Grand Central, at $1 to $2. From this point, which may be re
garded as the gateway of the Muskoka region, the tourist may con
tinue N. by rail via Braeebridge, the Muskoka River, Mary, Fairy,
and Vernon Lakes, to Callander and the Canadian Pacific R. R. at
Lake Nipissing ; or he may take the steamers of the Muskoka Navi
gation Co., through Lakes Muskoka, Rosscau, and Joseph, and the
Muskosh River. A side excursion up the S. branch of. the Muskoka
River to the Lake of Bays will enable the tourist to visit a lake which
rejoices in the title of Kahweambetewagamog.
From Muskoka wharf the steamers go to Bala, Braeebridge, Beau
maris, Port Carling, Windermere, Rosseau, Rosseau Falls, Port Sand-
field, Craigielea, Port Coburn, Juddhaven, and several other villages,
all of which are full of attraction for sportsman and tourist. One of
the loveliest of these is Beaumaris, which has a large and excellent
hotel situated on Tondern Island. Immediately opposite is a group of
small islands called the " Kettles," where may be found the best bass
fishing and fine trolling for salmon-trout. In the neighborhood of Brace-
bridge, the chief town of the Muskoka district, are the lovely cataracts
known as High Falls and the Great South Falls. The most central town
on the lakes is Port Carling, where all the steamboat routes converge,
and where Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau are connected by locks.
Lake Rosseau has an extreme length of 14 miles, and presents a

THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT. 33
great variety of charming landscape. In its southern portion it is set
thick with- the loveliest of islands. As many of these islands are
inhabited, and the dwellers thereon may be said to spend the most of
their time in boats, that section of the lake carries the appellation of
Venetia. Into the bay near Port Rosseau flows the mystic and incom
parable Shadow River, on whose flawless surface one floats as if
suspended midway between two lovely worlds of summer foliage. On a
small stream stealing into Shadow River resounds the clear tinklin" of
the Bridal-Veil Falls. A conspicuous landmark on Lake Rosseau is
the headland of Eagle's Nest. The third of the series of the Muskoka
Lakes, Lake Joseph, was till very lately almost unknown. Now it is
coming into repute as possessing a bolder beauty than its fellows.
Most tourists will probably decide that the difference is less of degree
than of kind, for it would be hard to say which of the three waters is the
fairest. An advantage afforded by all alike is that the tourist here may
" rough it " charmingly in tent and canoe, or, if he so prefer, enjoy all
the conveniences of civilized life in well-kept but unostentatious inns.
The traveler who wishes to visit the Maganetawan waters and
Parry Sound will follow the railroad north to Burks Falls and there
take the steamer Wenona down the Maganetawan through Se Seebe,
Ah Mic, and Wahwaskesh Lakes to Byng Inlet at the mouth, and
thence down the coast of Georgian Bay through Parry Sound and the
Archipelago to historic Penetanguishene, where under the waters of
the harbor lie the remains of four British gunboats. Here is one of the
finest summer resorts and hotels in Canada — " The Penetanguishene."
The first settlement of the Jesuits in Ontario was established in 1634 at
Penetanguishene, then called Ihonatiria, and in commemoration of this the
Jesuits have built there one of the finest ecclesiastical structures on the
continent. Of the almost virgin waters of the Maganetawan, which one
traverses on this trip, a writer in Forest and Farm speaks as follows :
" If a man can stand outdoor life and live on venison, trout, bass,
partridges, ducks, pork, tea, and crackers, there is no better place to go
to in America that is as accessible. A man can go there in July, August,
September, or October, with comfort, if he will go in the right way,
and shoot deer and catch trout to his heart's content. June to August
for trout; after that for deer. Remember the Maganetawan is as
large as the Schuylkill at Philadelphia or considerably wider or deeper
than the Harlem at High Bridge, and that the trout have an unlimited
range and are seldom disturbed, so that they have a chance to grow.
Deer can be bagged in great numbers if you choose to do so. With a

34 THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT.
couple of good hounds magnificent sport could be had in the fall. I
have shot partridges with my rifle from the canoe while traveling, as
they were strutting on the shore, and their drumming was one of the
pleasantest every-day sounds. Do not try to go without some guide.
There are men who know the country, and they should be secured, for
if you get in there alone you will have little sport and much trouble."
Between Parry Sound and the mouth of Moon River lie the desert
waters of Crane and Blackstone Lakes, favorite haunts of the maski
nonge. The capture of this splendid fish in these lakes is thus de
scribed by a writer in the Toledo Post :
" The shores of Crane and Blackstone Lakes are capital specimens
of the primitive wilderness, and long may they so continue ! The few
who have visited their teeming waters have mostly been genuine fish
ermen who are happiest when far away from conventionalities and
habitations. But one clearing broke the majestic sweep of the grand
old forests, within the sheltered bays the loons laughed undisturbed,
and the wild birds splashed in the marshy edges or upon the sandy
shores with none to molest or make them afraid.
" We were out for maskinonge, and took no account of either black
bass or pickerel. It seems strange to talk of shaking off black bass
and making disrespectful remarks about these gamy gentry when they
insisted in taking the hook, but they were so plenty as to be really
troublesome. " When an angler goes forth to catch the maskinonge it is necessary
to be careful lest the maskinonge should catch him. The native method
of taking the maskinonge in the primeval waters of Canada is by a
small clothes-line, hauled in by main strength when the fish bites ; but
we proposed to troll, as should an angler, with the rod. Ours were
split bamboo rods 9^ ft. long, quadruplex reel, and braided linen line,
2 ft. of medium-sized copper wire, a No. 4 spoon with double hooks,
and finally a good gaff. •
" Our guide, as we started over to Crane Lake the first morning,
indulged in sundry smiles and remarked that we should break our rods,
so that, although placid in outward mien, I felt inwardly a little nerv
ous ; but I didn't mean to back down until compelled.
" Swinging around a little point, with some 20 yards of line astern,
before fishing a great while I felt a sudden movement at the spoon that
was more like a crunch than a bite. It took only a second to give the
rod a turn that fixed the hooks, and another second to discover that I
had hung something. Scarcely had I tightened the line when the fish
started. I do not know that I wanted to stop him, but I felt the line
slip rapidly from the reel as though attached to a submarine torpedo.
The first run was a long one, but the line was longer, and the fish
stopped before the reel was bare. This was my opportunity, and I
had the boatman swing his craft across the course, and, reeling in the
slack line, I turned his head toward the deeper water. Forty-five

THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT. 35
minutes of as pretty a fight as one could wish to see left my new
acquaintance alongside the boat, and before he recovered his surprise
the gaff was in his gills and the boatman lifted him on board.
"He weighed 14 pounds on the steelyards, and was my heaviest
fish. There were other encounters of a similar character, but none
quite so protracted ; but I wouldn't be afraid of the largest veteran in
the lake ; and all fishermen, who aim for sport, will assuredly troll with
the rod. Our time was limited, far too short ; and, in a word, a day
and a half on Crane Lake gave us, without counting bass, ten maski
nonge, whose weight aggregated 110 pounds (on the scales), an average
weight of 11 pounds per fish."
From Toronto eastward.
From Toronto to Ottawa and Montreal one has a liberal choice
of routes. One may take the C. P. R. R., by way of Peterboro and
Smith's Falls to Ottawa, -and thence to Montreal (fare, $10). This is
the most direct route between Montreal and Ottawa, but it runs
through a somewhat less interesting and newer country than that
traversed by the Grand Trunk Ry., which skirts the lake and the
St. Lawrence all the way from Toronto to Montreal (fare, $10).
The route we would recommend, however, is that by water, by the
boats of the Ontario and Richelieu Navigation Company, which trav
erse almost the whole length of Lake Ontario, the fairy landscapes of
the Thousand Islands, and the famed St. Lawrence rapids (fare, $10,
meals and berths extra). Arrived at Montreal the tourist may go to
Ottawa by either of the railroads which connect the cities, the Cana
dian Pacific and the Canada Atlantic, and return by boat down the
Ottawa River.
The tourist who elects to go to Ottawa by the C. P. R. R. will travel
by one of the best-equipped and most reliable railroads in the world
He may take the train at the Union Station, or drive across the city to
the North Toronto Depot. The first town of importance after leaving
Toronto is Peterboro on the Otonabce River, a thriving city of about
9,000 inhabitants. This is the birthplace of the famous " Peterboro "
or " Rice Lake " canoe ; and the tourist who loves fishing and canoeing
will do well to linger at this point. The shores of Rice Lake have
been made illustrious by the residence of three of those Stricklands
whose names are so well known in the world of letters — Colonel
Strickland, and his sisters, Mrs. Moodie and Mrs. Traill. The country
about is a tangle of lakes and water-ways, a fisherman's paradise, and
it all lies at the feet of the skillful canoeist. Railway lines center at

36 FROM TORONTO EASTWARD.
Peterboro from half a dozen directions, and the Otonabee affords an
immense water-power which is utilized by many mills and factories.
Among the manufactures of the city are lumber, flour, cloth, agricult
ural implements, machinery and engines, potterj', and leather. The
river is spanned by six bridges, and the public buildings are numerous
and handsome. Tho best hotels aro the Oriental, Snowdon House, and
Grand Central.
For 100 miles, between Peterboro and Perth, the road runs through
a broken country rich in iron, phosphate, asbestos, and other valuable
minerals. At the town of Tweed we cross the Moira River, whose
waters are freighted with logs from the lumber regions. At Sharbot
Lake, a famous resort for sportsmen, the Kingston and Pembroke R. R.
is crossed. Perth, with a population of 4,000, is a prosperous milling
town, with rich quarries of building-stone and phosphates in the vicin
ity. Twelve miles beyond Perth is Smith's Falls on the Rideau River,
a junction town with population of between 2,000 and 3,000. Here the
main line between Toronto and Montreal is crossed by the line of the
Ottawa and Brockville division, whose cars we take at this point. Thir
teen miles farther on, at Carleton Place Junction, we first strike the
main transcontinental line of the C. P. R. R. From Carleton Place
to Ottawa is a distance of 28 miles. Before entering the city the
road follows the S. bank of the mighty Ottawa River, and the trav
eler may look down from the car windows upon vast stretches of logs
which, enchained in the long circuits of the "booms," almost hide
the water.
The Grand Trunk Ry. between Toronto and Montreal is set thick
with towns and cities from start to finish, and gives one a good idea of
the general prosperity of Canada. About 23 miles from Toronto the
road skirts a lovely landlocked mere, on which of old stood a village
of the Senecas. The entrance to this unruffled water was so concealed
by a growth of flags and rushes that none knew of its existence save
the dwellers on its banks, who called their village by the name of
Gandatsetiagon. Here now stands the town of Pickering, the shel
tered mere has become Pickering Harbor, and the reed-grown entrance
has been widened and deepened to admit the traffic of the lake. In
the neighborhood of Pickering are some fair pike and black-bass waters.
Just beyond Pickering is Whitby, the seat of the Ontario Ladies' Col
lege, whence a branch line runs north, past the town of Lindsay, to its
terminus at Haliburton. Haliburton stands in the midst of an admi-

FROM TORONTO EASTWARD. 37
rable hunting and fishing region. The lakes and streams around the
town are well stocked with brook trout and salmon trout, which take
the fly freely from the middle of May to the end of June. Within easy
reach of Haliburton the hunter will find deer, bear, moose, and par
tridge fairly abundant, and guides with dogs may be hired in the neigh
borhood. About 4 miles west of Whitby is the busy manufacturing town of
Oshawa, with good fall duck-shooting in the neighborhood. Here, in
old days, was the beginning of the portage from Ontario to Scugog
Lake ; and the name Oshawa simply means the carrying-place.
" The map of Lake Outario has, within historic memory, been over
written with five series of names and settlements — those of the Huron-
Algonquin era, those of the Iroquois domination, those of the French
occupation, those of the Mississaga or Ojibway conquest, and those of
the English occupation. Of the Huron-Algonquin period but slight
trace survives on Lake Ontario beyond the name of the lake itself.
After alternate fanfares and disgrdces it had been rechristened Lake
St. Louis and Lake of the Iroquois, Frontenac's Lake and Lake Cata-
raqui ; but the grand old lake went back to the simplicity — the ma
jestic simplicity — of its ancient name. Even in Charlevoix's day — a
hundred and sixty years ago — the undisputed name was once more
Ontario, ' the Great Lake.' "
Of the Iroquois domination also but few traces remain — a few sono
rous names like Niagara and Toronto. The race of athletes who lorded
it over half the continent, whose alliance was eagerly courted by France
and England, were, after all, unable to maintain their foothold against
the despised Ojibways. Of these, the Mississagas became specially
numerous and aggressive, so that their totem, the crane, was a familiar
hieroglyph on our forest trees from the beginning of the last century.
One of the oldest of Greek legends relates the war of the cranes and
pygmies. Though the foes of our northern cranes were not pygmies
but giants, they possessed not the craft of the little ancients who lived
by the ocean-shore. The Mississagas so multiplied in their northern
nests that presently, by mere numbers, they overwhelmed the Iroquois.
Most desperate fighting there was, and the battle-fields wore still clear
ly traceable when English pioneers first broke ground.
The Mississagas, though not endowed with either the Mohawk verve
or intellect, were no more destitute of poetry than of valor. Take the
names of some of their chiefs. One chief's name signified " He who
makes footsteps in the sky " ; another was Wawanosh, " He who ambles

38 FROM TORONTO EASTWARD.
the waters." The Rev. Peter Jones was, through his mother, descended
from a famous line of poetic warriors ; his grandfather was Waubuno,
" The Morning Light." On occasion, the Mississaga could come down
to prose. Scugog describes the clay bottom and submerged banks of
that lake, which, taking a steamer at Port Perry, we traverse on our
summer excursion to Lindsay and Sturgeon Lake. Chemong aptly
names the lake whose tide of silt sometimes even retards our canoe
when we are fishing or fowling. Omemee, " the wild pigeon," has given
its name not only to Pigeon Lake and its chief affluent, but to the
town where Pigeon Creek lingers on its course to the lake.
" On Rice Lake, the chief Indian settlement is Hiawatha, named
after the Hercules of Ojibway mythology, whom the American poet
has immortalized in his melodious trochaics. At Hiawatha and on
Scugog Island you may still find, in the ordinary language of the
Ojibway, fragments of fine imagery and picture-talk, often in the very
words which Longfellow has so happily woven into his poem. And
the scenery of this Trent Valley reproduces that of the Vale of Tawa-
sentha. Here are 'the wild rice of the river' and 'the Indian village'
and ' the groves of singing pine-trees — ever sighing, ever singing.' At
Fenelon Falls we have the ' Laughing Water,' and not far below is
Sturgeon Lake, the realm of the ' King of Fishes.' Sturgeon of por
tentous size are yet met with, though falling somewhat short of the
comprehensive fish sung by Longfellow, which swallowed Hiawatha,
canoe and all !
" Among these forests, too, dwelt once Meggissogwon, that ' mighti
est of magicians,' who, 'guarded by the black pitch-water, sends the
fever from the marshes.' Our fathers and grandfathers knew this
magician only too well ; felt him, far off, and shook at his coming.
They fought him, not like Hiawatha with jasper-headed arrows, but
with the woodman's axe. Like the Indian hero, our pioneer was often
' wounded, weary, and desponding, with his mittens torn and tat
tered.' " — Picturesque Canada.
Leaving Oshawa, we pass through Darlington, Bowmanville, New
castle, Newtonville, and reach the important town of Port Hope
(chief hotels, St. Lawrence Hall, $1.50 to $2 ; and Queen's, $1.50), pict
uresquely situated in a deep ravine, and busy with a large lake traffic.
There are good hotels at this point, and within easy distance are the
waters of Rice Lake, which swarm with maskinonge, black bass, and
green bass. On Rice Lake the best month for maskinonge is June ;
for bass, from July to September. Seven miles beyond Port Hope is
the university town of Cobourg, the seat of Victoria College. For
tunately for Cobourg, it is something more than a university town ; for

FROM TORONTO EASTWARD. 39
Victoria College has decided to amalgamate with the University of
Toronto. Cobourg must rely henceforth entirely on her manufactures
and her trade, her car-works and her breweries. Rice Lake may con
veniently be reached from Cobourg by the Canadian Pacific and Mon
treal R. R., or by stage to Gore's Landing. The next important point
after leaving Cobourg is Trenton, on the river Trent. Here the Grand
Trunk is crossed by the lines of the Ontario Central, which runs down
the beautiful peninsula of Prince Edward County to Picton. The Trent
River is the outlet of Rice Lake.
Beyond Trenton lies the city of Belleville, beautiful in its sur
roundings and in its handsome and shaded streets. Belleville has a
population of about 12,000, and is full of activity and enterprise. Its
chief hotels are the Kyle House, $1.50; Anglo-American, $1.50; and
Commercial, $1. It has fine public buildings, and is the seat of Alex
andra College and of the Provincial Institution for Deaf-Mutes. The
city was named in honor of Arabella, wife of Governor Gore. It stands
on the shores of the exquisite Bay of Quinte, whose waters teem with
all delights for the fisherman, and whose changeful and delicious land
scapes will long delay the traveler.
The best way to visit Picton, at the extremity of Prince Edward
Peninsula is by boat from Belleviile down along the Quints shores.
This is a region of glamour and romance, away from the beaten paths
of trade. It is a land of waving barley-fields, and of merry picnic par
ties. In the heart of the peninsula is the lovely and romantic Lake
of the Mountain, which occupies the highest point on the peninsula,
and is kept ever full to the brim, with no visible sources of supply.
Its surface is on a level with that of far-off Lake Eric, a circumstance
which has given rise to many conjectures of a mysterious communica
tion between them. Over the changing shores and headlands hang
memories of Huron and Jesuit, Iroquois and Sulpician, Mississaga and
loyalist pioneer. The Belleville steamer touches at the stirring port of
Deseronto, where the mainland thrusts itself forth into the bay. Dese-
ronto is a center of the flour and lumber trade, and in its saw-mills the
logs of the Trent, Moira, and Napanee Rivers are cut up into planks
and boards and laths and shingles to be consumed across the border.
The town is named after a famous Mohawk chief of the last century, a
cousin of the great Brant, and the signification of the title is " Thunder
and Lightning." Leaving Deseronto the steamer enters the magnifi
cent expanse of placid water known as the Long Reach. At the south-

40 FROM TORONTO EASTWARD.
em extremity of the Reach the high shores draw together to form Picton
Bay, at the head of which the town of Picton (chief hotel, the Royal,
$1.50 to $2) beautifully terminates the vista. On the lakeward side of
the peninsula is an interesting phenomenon known as the "Sand
banks." The strange scene is thus described in Picturesque Can
ada : " Lofty ridges of sand, appearing from a distance as white as
snow, were originally in some obscure way thrown up at the water's
edge ; but, by a kind of glacier movement, which proceeds only in the
winter, they have now withdrawn from the shore and are encroaching
on the adjacent farms at the rate of about 150 feet a year. The active
agent in the movement appears to be the drifting snow which en
tangles the sand and carries it forward. On the hottest day snow may
be found a short distance down, as we proved by repeated trials at vati-
ous points of the banks. Historically, too, Big Sandy Bay is most
interesting. It was on the cove within, now called West Lake, that in
1668 the Kente Mission was established."
About 22 miles E. of Belleville, on the Grand Trunk, is the ancient
town of Napanee. The name is derived from the Mississaga word
Nau-pau-nay, which signifies " flour." As bread-stuffs are the staple
of Napanee's trade, the name is highly appropriate. The town is situ
ated on a strange river, whose deep and somber waters are swayed by
a mysterious tide every two hours. This tide represents a variation
of 16 inches in mean level, and sometimes attains a fluctuation of 30
inches. Kingston.
Population, 25,000. The chief hotels of Kingston are The Hotel
Frontenac, $2 and $3 ; British- American, $2 and $3 ; City Hotel, $1.50
and $2 ; and Anglo-American. Livery charges, $2.50 per day for single
horse and carriage. Hacks are to be hired at usual rates. The only
theatres are the public halls.
The next town of importance after leaving Napanee is Kingston,
which is known as the " Limestone City," standing guard at the foot
of the lake where the channel of the St. Lawrence begins to define
itself. This gray and enduring little city, with its 25,000 inhabitants,
has a beautiful and commanding situation, and its spacious harbor is
fenced by islands from the storms of Lake Ontario.
Where the olive waters of the Cataraqui flow into the blue expanse
of the bay came Frontenac, greatest of the Governors of New France,
to establish a fort and trading post on what he considered " one of the

KINGSTON. 41
most beautiful and agreeable harbors in the world." Frontenac pitched
his tents where now stand the Tete du Pont Barracks, commanding the
mouth of the Cataraqui. This was in July of 1 673. The command of
the fort, which speedily rose under the energetic directions of Fronte
nac, was assigned to the illustrious Robert Cavalier de la Salle. The
settlement grew speedily in wealth and importance, till La Salle de
parted to discover the route to the Gulf of Mexico, and die by the
hands of a traitor in Texas. Under the next Governor, M. de Denon-
ville, Fort Frontenac was the scene of an act of treachery on the
part of the French toward the Indians which brought down terrible
vengeance upon New France. A number of Iroquois chiefs, under
pretext of a conference, were enticed into the fort, where they were
loaded with chains and then sent to France to wear out their lives
in the galleys. The retort of the Iroquois was the harrying of the
French settlement, the capture and destruction of Fort Frontenac, and
the midnight massacre of Lachine. When the weakness and treachery
of De Denonville had brought New France to these straits, Frontenac
came back and saved the colony, and rebuilt his favorite fort ; and
fifty years of peace began their brooding over the mouth of the Cata
raqui. The fort was captured by Colonel Bradstreet in 1758. There
after the place fell into forgetfulness, from which it did not emerge
till the end of the Revolutionary War, when a party of United Empire
Loyalists chose the fair site for a settlement, and in their zeal Cata
raqui became Kingstown, afterward shortened to Kingston. When the
War of 1812 broke out, Kingston came into prominence as the strong
est Canadian post on the lake, the chief rival to the American strong
hold of Sackett's Harbor. Fort Henry was commenced, and a for
midable battle-ship, the St. Lawrence, was built in the Kingston Dock
yard. So hard was it for the mother-country to realize that any good
thing could come out of a colony, that this ship was built, at a cost
of £500,000, with timbers sent out from England for the purpose.
At this period the town was surrounded by a chain of block-houses
connected by a picket stockade. These block-houses subsequently
were supplanted by stone batteries and martello towers, which, how
ever ineffective they might be against modern artillery, nevertheless
add greatly to the martial air of Kingston as seen from the water.
When Upper Canada was erected into a province, Governor Simcoe
was sworn into office at Kingston, and from this point were issued
writs for the convening of the first Provincial Parliament, whioh met,

42 KINGSTON.
however, as has been already stated, at Niagara. When Upper and
Lower Canada were united in 1S40, Kingston was made the seat of
government, and the Legislature occupied the building now employed
as the City Hospital. Only for four years, however, was Kingston suf
fered to enjoy this proud distinction ; and in 1844 the departure of the
Government and its officials left the " Limestone City " in a slough of
commercial and social despond.
Now, however, Kingston has entered anew upon an era of pros
perity. She is the outlet for the traffic of the Rideau Canal, and, which
is vastly more important, for that of the Kingston and Pembroke R. R.,
which opens up a district of immense mineral wealth. She has become
a great educational center. Here is Queen's University, which has be
come, under Principal George M. Grant, one of the most successful and
well-conducted institutions of learning in Canada. Here also is the
Royal Military College, the West Point of Canada, where the cadets
get a training the efficiency of which is well recognized in sister colonies
and in the mother-country. Kingston is also the seat of the Royal
College of Physicians and Surgeons, and of the Women's Medical
College, both of which are affiliated with Queen's University. The
buildings of " Queen's " are the chief architectural ornament of Kings
ton. The individuality of Kingston is thus effectively described by a
distinguished Canadian writer :
" Still Kingston contains a military look, not unpleasing to the tour
ist's eye. There is the fort crowning the glacis. Full in front, a
round tower covers the landing. At its base, a semicircular bastion
pierced for artillery is ready to sweep the water. The embrasures of
the fort look askance at the foundries and the enginery on the opposite
side of the harbor. The cannon confronts the locomotive ; and, fit
emblem of our time, a solitary warder guards the decaying fort, while
in the locomotive-shops between 400 and 500 skilled workmen are
employed. The tower, with its conical red cap and circling wall of
compact ball-proof masonry, looks well. It would have scared the
Iroquois. It could have defied the raiders of 1812. Against modern
artillery it is as good as an arquebuse. Hard by is the Military Col
lege, with its 100 or 120 red-coated, white-helmeted cadets. Where the
olive-green of Cataraqui Creek blends with the blue of the bay, still
stand the old naval barracks, where Tom Bowling and Ned Bunting
were wont to toast ' sweethearts and wives.' A little up the creek is
Barriefield Common, once gay with the pomp and circumstance of
glorious war, but now seldom marched over by anything more militant
than the villagers' geese. From the common a causeway, nearly half
a mile long, extends across the creek to the Tete du Pont Barracks,

KINGSTON. 43
the headquarters alternately of the very efficient A and B Batteries.
Thanks to the gentlemen cadets and battery-men, the streets of King
ston still have a sprinkling of red, white, and blue."
Six miles up the placid windings of the Cataraqui stream we enter
a deep gorge, whose rocky banks, almost overhanging, are richly
clothed with vines. Here we meet the foamy rush of a little cascade ;
and here is the entrance to the Rideau Canal, whose sedgy waters,
the haunt of innumerable mallard and teal, afford the canoeist an en
chanting path through the Rideau Lakes to Ottawa.
The tourist who is not in an inordinate hurry to reach Montreal
will take the steamer at Kingston if he has come thus far by rail ; for
the river trip between Kingston and the commercial metropolis of
Canada is one of the most attractive on the continent. As the steamer
rounds Fort Hill, and passes Cedar Island, we find ourselves fairly in
the channel of the St. Lawrence, at this point about 14 miles in width.
If one wishes to "do " the Thousand Islands thoroughly, it is best to
stop off at the village of Gananoque, around whose shores the islands
appear to swarm. The name Gananoque signifies " rocks in deep
water." The town stands on a small river of the same name, is well
supplied with hotels, and has good maskinonge and black-bass fishing
in its neighborhood. The Thousand Islands.
The Thousand Islands are really many more than a thousand in
number, there being about 1,800 of them large and small, in a stretch
of about 40 miles. The Indians call the region Manatoana — " the Gar
den of the Great Spirit." The islands are all of that formation which
the geologists call gray gneiss. Through the innumerable labyrinths
that divide them the current of the great river flows with varying
rapidity. In some of the channels it is a foaming torrent, while in
others the gently-moving tide is as smooth as a summer pool. The
islands present the greatest variety of effect. Some arc high and
precipitous, others barely lift their heads above the lily-pads that encir
cle them. Some are as naked as if their granite frames had just come
from the primeval fires ; others are topped with pine and fir, or softly
rounded with the foliage of vines and shrubbery. Some are dotted
with cottages, or tho tents of camping parties. Several of the islets
are built up with fantastic structures, pagodas, and fairy bridges, till
they look as if they had just stepped off an old blue " willow-pattern"

44 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.
plate. Hither and thither among them dart the trim craft of the
canoeists, for here it is they most do congregate ; and in many a
sluggish eddy or sheltered bay may be seen the punt of him that lies
in wait for maskinonge. The landscape is like Egypt's incomparable
Queen, for " age can not wither it nor custom stale its infinite vari
ety." With every change of sky and cloud the scene changes, and
unexpected colors, lights, and shades descend upon the isles and water
reaches. But not always were the Thousand Islands such a region of enchant
ment, or else the eyes of the old French explorers were blinded by weari
ness after their struggles with the fierce rapids farther down the stream.
In a report of an expedition against the Mohawks in 1665, M. de Cour-
celles asserts that " they have nothing agreeable beyond their multi
tude," and that tney " are only huge rocks rising out of the water, cov
ered merely by moss, or a few spruce or other stunted wood, whose
roots spring from the clefts of the rocks, which can supply no other
aliment or moisture to these barren trees than what the rains furnish
them." From this it would seem that the luxuriant vegetation that
now lends the islands so much of their charm was lacking to them two
centuries ago. It is certain, however, that the tourist who passes has
tily through the Thousand Islands will miss their chief beauties, and
may even find the very numbers of them monotonous.
As might be expected, the scenery of the Thousand Islands is
touched with the charm of many an old romance. They inspired the
song of Tom Moore, and one of them is the scene of Cooper's story,
Tho Pathfinder. Among their mazes a British ship, the Sir Robert
Peel, was burned in 1838 by a band of American outlaws under the
leadership of one " Bill Johnson," who aspired to establish a Canadian
Republic. This romantic desperado was saved from the indignant
clutches of the law by a picturesque and dauntless girl, his daughter
Kate, who rowed him from one hiding-place to another as each in suc
cession grew too hot for him.
On one of the largest of the islands, known as Wells's Island, is the
swarming summer resort of the Thousand Island Park, with its
post-office, public buildings, and stores, and its water-side street of boat-
houses. This is the famous camp-meeting ground of the Methodists,
and here religion and relaxation are most alluringly combined. At the
lower end of the island is the somewhat quieter resort of Westminster
Park, also under religious control ; and directly opposite the island, on

In the Thousand Isles.

THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 45
the American mainland, and not under religious control, is Alexandria
Bay, the " Saratoga of the St. Lawrence." Hence, it may be seen that
the Thousand Islands stand in little need of the romance of old, for
the makers of romance are among them the summer long, and turn
out their enchanting though transitory product in an abundance that
beggars reckoning. On a promontory, near the landing at Alexandria
Bay, stands the villa known as Bonnie Castle, the residence of the late
Dr. J. G. Holland.
After the steamer emerges from the clustering isles it swings up to
the wharves of Brockville, the Thousand Island City. This beautiful
little city, whose gilded towers and spires glitter fairly above the
billows of foliage that screen its comely thoroughfares, was named after
the hero of Queenston Heights. Brockville is supplied with excellent
hotels, such as the St. Lawrence Hall, Revere House, and Grand Central
Hotel. In the river, at this point, and in the neighboring lakes of
Charleston and Ridout, there is good fishing for black bass, salmon
trout, pickerel, pike, and maskinonge ; and duck, plover, woodcock,
snipe, and partridge are fairly abundant in the surrounding country.
Twelve miles beyond Brockville stands the town of Prescott, whence
a branch line of the Canadian Pacific runs direct to Ottawa. On a point
of land about a mile below Prescott stands the historic " Wind
mill," a white stone tower pierced with loopholes, and now serving as
a lighthouse. In November, 1837, the " Windmill " was the scene of a
foolish but pathetic tragedy. It was seized by a little band of self-
styled " Patriots " under the leadership of a Polish exile named Von
Shultz. Being made the tool of knaves and adventurers in safe refuge
across the border, Von Shultz was deceived into the belief that Can
ada was groaning under an intolerable tyranny, and that he was calleM
to deliver her from the yoke. With his brave but lamentably mis
guided followers he held the mill for some days against the Canadian
forces under Colonel Dundas. During the fight the American shore
opposite was crowded with spectators, who lent the insurgents the safe
and cheap assistance of their sympathy. Compelled at length to sur
render at discretion, the unhappy Von Shultz, with 9 others of the 110
prisoners, was tried by court-martial at Fort Henry and put to death
on the gallows.
Below Prescott the calm blue reaches of the river present little vari
ety till the Galoups Rapids are reached. Here the awakening water
writhes and foams, and we feel a tremor in the timbers of our sturdy

46 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.
craft ; but the rapids are not violent, and merely serve as a foretaste of
those to be encountered farther on. Parallel with the " Galoups " runs
a small canal, at the lower end of which lies the thriving village of
Cardinal. Soon the spires of Morrisburg rise above its embowering
trees, and round a curve of the shore, between islands softly wooded
with white birch, our steamer sweeps through the low, green, singing
waves of the Rapid du Plat. Two miles and a half below the village,
near a little promontory, the shore is broken by an irregular ravine.
The country all about is a vision of peace, of orchards and quiet home
steads and meadows deep with grass, and bits of woodland spared dis
creetly by the axe. Yet the scene is one of heroic memories, and every
Canadian heart thrills to look upon it. In the ravine, and on the up
lands about it, was fought the bravely contested battle of Chrysler's
Farm, on November 11, 1813. On the one side was the American in
vading force, on the other a little army of Canad an volunteers with a
handful of British regulars. The issue of the battle was long uncer
tain, but the final result was a decisive victory for the Canadians.
The Rapids of the St. Lawrence.
From Chrysler's Farm onward we pass a succession of pretty vil
lages and bits of peaceful landscape, till, just as the monotony of sweet
ness is beginning to pall upon the eye, the current quickens and high
rocks appear along the shores. We are entering the splendid rapid of
the Long Sault, by far the grandest, if not the most exciting rapid
of the chain. It is a novelty indeed to find a large steamer tossed to
and fro like a little cockboat, and buffeted by huge billows which make
her quiver from stem to stern. Other rapids have swifter sweeps or
sharper turns, but this bears away the palm from all in the size and
glory of its waves. The roaring channel is divided by a somber and
thickly wooded island. The northern passage is called Lost Channel,
and there is no path through its shouting rabble of high white waves
that clamber upon each other and seem to race up-stream. The steamer
dashes into the white and emerald turmoil of the South Channel, and,
drenched with spray, plunges with a galloping motion down the long
incline, till it rests in smooth water under the steep sides of the island
of St. Regis.
Boats ascending the St. Lawrence get around the Long Sault by
means of the Cornwall Canal, at the lower end of which stands the
busy manufacturing town of Cornwall. At this point we pass into the

THE RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 47
province of Quebec, and at this point also the St. Lawrence ceases to
form the boundary between Canada and the United States, for the di
viding line recedes sharply to the eastward. The shores of the river
spread apart to form Lake St. Francis, with the little town of Lancas
ter on the left coast and the settlements of Dundee and Fort Coving
ton on the right. In the distance rises a blue range of mountains, the
hills of Chateauguay, on which the eye rests with delight after the low
horizons of Ontario. In the vicinity of those blue heights lies the bat
tle-field of Chateauguay, where De Salaberry and his handful of
French Canadian volunteers won a decisive victory over a much supe
rior force of American militia. At the foot of the lake is the quaint
French Canadian village of Coteau du Lac, with its straggling brown
street, its long, brown wooden pier, its old-fashioned boats, and the
gilded spire of its great stone church shedding a glory over the scene.
Away to the south lies cotton-spinning Valleyfield, at the head of the
Beauharnois Canal. When the lake is fairly left behind, the shores
grow more abrupt, the current dips and begins to dart and twist ;
and we plunge through the rapid of " The Cedars," where the rich
foliage sweeps down to the flying waters. Then more quiet reaches
are traversed, and we come to the beautiful "Cascades," where the
clamoring waves flash high and thin among the rocky islets that break
the channel. Ere the excitement of the descent has died away we
come out on the broad breast of Lake St. Louis, where the St. Law
rence widens to give fitting reception to its mighty tributary the Ottawa.
The waters of this great stream, drawn from its somber hills of pine and
fir, are of a brown color that defines itself sharply against the clearer
and bluer tide of the St. Lawrence. Away to the left is the village
of St. Anne, made forever musical by the Canadian Boat Song of Tom
Moore : Faintly as tolls the evening chime,
Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time.
Soon as the woods on the shore look dim,
We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn.
Row, brothers, row I the stream runs fast,
The rapids are near, and tlie daylight's past 1
Why should we yet our sail unfurl ?
There is not a breath the blue waves to curl.
But when the wind blows off the shore,
Oh ! sweetly we'll rest our weary oar,
Blow, breezes, blow ! the stream runs fast,
The rapids are near, and the daylight's past I

48 THE RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE.
Ottawa's tide ! this trembling moon
Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon.
Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ;
Oh, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs !
Blow, breezes, blow ! the stream runs fast,
The rapids are near, and the daylight's past !
On the horizon ahead rises a bold, blue mass which we recognize as
" the Mountain " of Montreal. Soon other purple masses emerge to
keep it company, the summits of Mounts Shefford, Belceil, and St. John,
and we reach the Indian village of Caughnawaga, the home of the fa
mous Lacrosse-players. The steamer slows up to take aboard a pilot,
and our hearts beat quicker as we realize that the great rapid of
Lachine is at hand.
This famous rapid is less impressive in its surroundings than the
Long Sault ; it lacks the absolute beauty of the chiming and dancing
" Cascades " ; but it is far more awe-inspiring than either. It makes
one catch one's breath with a sense of imminent peril. The descent
has been thus vividly described : " Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur
bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into spray and into breakers
of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks, which they are dashed
against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a
storm-lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity
in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few
yards of rocks which, did your vessel but touch them, would reduce
her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear;
did she ever diverge in the least from her course — if her head were
not kept straight with the course of the rapid— she would be instantly
submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute preci
pice of waters; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches,
are thrown high into the «ir. Ere we can take a glance at the scene,
the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a
second afterward you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of
' below the rapids.' "
Presently we pass the wooded shores of Nun's Island, and the stately
city of Montreal lies before us.

OTTAWA. 49
Ottawa.
Toward dayset, where the journeying sun grown old
Hangs lowly westward darker now than gold,
With the soft sun-touch of the yellowing hours
Made lovelier, I see with dreaming eyes,
Even as a dream out of a dream, arise
The bell-tongued city with its glorious towers. A. Lamp-man.
Hotels. — The chief hotels of Ottawa are the Russell, Windsor
House, and Grand Union ; rates from $2 to $4 a day. The clubs are
the Rideau, Ottawa, and West End. Chief restaurants : The Bodega,
Chambers's, Queen's, Walker's, Burns's. Reading-rooms : The Parlia
mentary, Y. M. C. A., and St. Patrick's Literary and Scientific Society.
Theatre: The Grand Opera-House. Horse-cars connect the city with
towns across the river (fare, 5c). Population (estimated), 40,00*0.
We will suppose that the tourist has taken the direct route from
Toronto to Ottawa — that by the Canadian Pacific, already described.
If he has gone first to Montreal, he may go thence to Ottawa by
the Canadian Pacific, the Canada Atlantic, or by boat up the Ottawa
River. We should advise the route up by rail, and the return by
boat. Ottawa, the capital of the federated provinces of Canada, is in
the province of Ontario, on the south shore of the Ottawa River, 126
miles from its mouth. For picturesque grandeur the site of Ottawa is
second only to that of Quebec. At this point the great river roars down
into the terrific caldron of Chaudiere Falls, to whose vindictive deity
the Indians of old were wont to make propitiatory offerings of tobacco.
At this point also the Ottawa is joined by its tributary, the Rideau
River, which flows in over a fall of wonderful grace and beauty. The
shifting, curtain-like folds of this cascade give the river its name of
Rideau, or the " Curtain."
Like Quebec, Ottawa consists of an Upper and a Lower Town. In
the double city flows a double life — the life of a rich capital and the
life of a rafting and milling center — the life of that society that clusters
around the government and the life of the French-Canadian lumber
man. Ottawa is not only the seat of government but a hive of in
dustry as well. It is the city of laws and saws. Its Upper Town rings
with the eloquence of our legislators ; its Lower with the shriek of our
unremitting saw-mills. It is growing as no mere bureaucratic center
can grow, and has a population of over 40,000, where, forty years ago,
there were but 7,000 or 8,000 inhabitants. It is a city of deeps and
4

50 OTTAWA.
heights, of sharp contrasts alike in its landscapes and its life ; and both
are alike dominated by the truly splendid pile of the Parliament Build
ings, which imperially crown the loftiest point of the city.
In the days of the " old regime," when the Ottawa River was the
chief path of the fur-trade, on which New France subsisted, the place
of portage around the falls of the Chaudiere had not even a wigwam to
mark it as the site of a future city. It was a place of horror and of
lying-in-wait ; for here the Iroquois came to intercept the Algonquins
of the north country, on their way to Quebec, with their canoe-loads of
peltries. In 1693 so closely did the Iroquois bar the stream that a
three-years' gathering of beaver-skins was held up at Michilimackinac
unable to make its market ; and it took Frontenac himself, the Deus ex
machina of New France, to break the dread blockade. Most of the
romantic history of Old Canada, however, went by the other way, and
left the difficult passes of the Ottawa unhaloed. Not till 1800 did the
spot where the Rideau spills its stream attract the regard of pioneers.
In that year one Philemon Wright, of Woburn, Massachusetts, led a
little colony to the spot, and founded a prosperous settlement, which is
now the city of Hull, on the Quebec side of the river, immediately op
posite Ottawa. The War of 1812 impelled the Imperial Government
to build the Rideau Canal, for strategic purposes, and on the unpromis
ing cliffs, across the river from Hull, arose the community of Bytown,
named for a colonel of the Royal Engineers, who had charge of the
canal construction. The village grew and became a town ; and at length
the seat of government, after having been made the shuttlecock of
politicians and bandied between Niagara and Kingston and Toronto
and Quebec and Montreal, was planted here by order of the Queen, and
found a secure abiding-place.
The Parliament Buildings are designed in a modified twelfth-
century Gothic, and are an admirable combination of simplicity, grace,
and strength. The material of which they are constructed is a cream-
colored sandstone, whose richness of tone grows under the touch of
time. The door and window arches are of red Potsdam sandstone with
dressings of Ohio freestone. The great central block occupies a stone
terrace with broad, sloping carriage approaches, and is surmounted by
a well-proportioned tower 22<> ft. in height. This building stands at
the back of a spacious square, of which the eastern and western blocks
form the two sides. In the central block are the two Houses of Parlia-
ment, the Commons and the Senate. The side-blocks contain the

Parliament Buildings, Ottawa.

OTTAWA. 51
offices of the various departments. Behind the Chambers stands the
beautiful building of the Parliamentary Library, its lofty dome sup
ported by flying buttresses of admirable design. From a number of
points of view the buildings " compose " in a way that gives the keenest
pleasure to the eye. The first stone of the buildings was laid by the
Prince of Wales in 1860, and in their present form they have cost
about $5,000,000. The beautiful grounds of Parliament Hill, seated
high above the river and commanding an unrivaled view, are laid out
in broad walks, which form the favorite promenade of the citizens.
Ottawa contains other fine buildings such as the Post-Office and
the great Roman Catholic Cathedral 'in the interesting French district
of Suffolk St. and its neighborhood, and some massive and magnifi
cent commercial buildings ; but they are so overshadowed by the
noble structures on Parliament Hill that one is apt to ignore them.
On one side of the ample breadth of Cartier Square is the fine stone
pile of the Normal School, and not far off the enormous red brick
block of the Drill Shed.
Rideau Hall, the residence of the Governor-General and the cen
ter of the brilliant social life of Ottawa, stands about two miles out of
tho city, on the road that leads past Rideau Falls and through the suburb
of New Edinburgh. It is a most unpretentious and hap-hazard con
glomeration of plaster, brick, and stone, but withal a very comfortable
and home-like place to live in. The " season " at Ottawa is during
the winter months, when Parliament is in session ; and then the ample
grounds of Rideau Hall become the scene of such a typically Canadian
merry-making that one can hardly realize that the dispenser of vice
regal hospitalities is not a Canadian, but a five-years' visi.aut from
over seas. The skating-pond and the long toboggan-slides arc thronged
with Canada's manliest and fairest ; and the visitors from the mother
country take very kindly to the exhilarating Canadian pastimes.
A species of summer-tobogganing, but vastly more thrilling and with
a more piquant flavor of novelty and peril, is the descent of the " lumbi. r-
slides " — an experience which none but the very timorous tourist should
omit. The " slides " are long, flat-bottomed, sharply-sloping channels
of massive stone-work and timber. These are built for the passage of
great logs which have been hewn square in the woods, and which
would be damaged by such merciless grinding and battering as the
ordinary rough logs are subjected to in their plunge over the falls.
The squared logs are made up, for the descent, into " cribs " of about

52 OTTAWA.
20 sticks, exactly fitting the slides. As these are but slightly fastened
together, there is always the fascinating possibility of a break-up ; and
the pace of the descent is eminently exciting. The experience of the
slides — an experience through which all illustrious visitors, such as the
Prince of Wales, Prince Arthur, the Grand Duke Alexis, and the
Princess Louise have passed with dutiful heroism — is thus effectively
described by Mr. F. A. Dixon :
" Just at the head the adventurous voyageurs hurriedly embark, the
crib being courteously held back for a moment for their convenience.
Under direction they perch themselves upon the highest timber in the
rear, out of the way as far as possible of uprushing waters, and the
huge mass is cleverly steered, by the immense oars which are used for
the purpose, toward the entrance of the chute. Ahead for a quarter
of a mile appears a narrow channel, down which a shallow stream of
water is constantly rushing, with here and there a drop of some 5 or 8
feet ; the ladies gather up their garments, as the crib, now beginning to
feel the current, takes matters into its own hands ; with rapidly-quicken
ing speed the unwieldy craft passes under a bridge, and with a groan
and a mighty cracking and splashing plunges, nose foremost, and tail
high in the air, over the first drop. Now she is in the slide proper,
and the pace is exhilarating ; on over the smooth timbers she glides
swiftly; at a bridge ahead passers-by stop, and waving of friendly
handkerchiefs is interchanged. Now comes a bigger drop than the
last, and the water, as we go over, surges up through our timbers, and
a shower of spray falls about us. A delicate ' Oh ! ' from the ladies
compliments this effort. Never mind ; a little wetting was all in this
day's march. Another interval of smooth rush, and again a drop, and
yet another. Ahead, there is a gleam of tossed and tumbled water,
which shows the end of the descent ; down still we rush, and with one
last wild dip, which sends the water spurting up about our feet, we
have reached the bottom, cleverly caught on a floating platform of
wood, called the ' apron,' which prevents our plunging into ' full fath
oms five.' We have ' run the slides.' "
The most interesting part of Lower Town is crowded about Chau
diere Falls. This is the lumber region — a city of deals, but not such
deals as are to be had in Wall St. The air is full of the smell of
fresh-cut pine and fir, and tho shop-windows are stocked with saws and
axes, chains and pike-poles, "' cant-dogs " and gigantic leg-boots, and
indestructible raiment. Sawdust is the pervading element. As we
approach the water our ears tingle under the shrieking crescendo and
diminuendo of the innumerable saws. The mills crowd half-way across
the river. Every point of rock is packed with structures, and out from
every point of vantage are thrust great embankments of stone and tim-

OTTAWA.

53

ber, on which more mills are heaped. Besides the saw-mills, there are
flour-mills and cement-mills, and wool-mills ; and, on the other side of
the cataract, reaching out from the Hull shore, a gigantic structure
where matches are made, and wooden-ware. There, also, are yet more
mills. The great river has been caught and put in harness. A portion
of its water is permitted to thunder over the falls, which form a great
semicircular chasm in mid-channel, and are crossed by a suspension
bridge. The rest of the current is forced to labor in the mills, ere it
may continue its journey to the sea ; for a thousand sluices have begun
" To hem his watery march, and dam bis streams,
And split Ms currents."
In the saw-mills the chaos of strange and strident noises is inde
scribable, and the scene is beyond measure novel and impressive. By
day in the yellow gloom, by night in the white glare of the countless
electric lights, go on the rending and the biting of the saws. In the
dark, sawdust flecked water about the foot of the dripping slides wal
low the rough brown logs. Great chains and hooks descend, and the
logs are grabbed and dragged up the slide into the dens where the
myriad teeth await them. What are known as the upright saws are
set together to the number of two or three dozen, in a combination
called a " gate " which keeps darting up and down in a terrible and
gigantic dance. Against their teeth the logs are driven ; steadily and
irresistibly the steel bites its loud way from end to end ; and the logs
pass forth on the other side in the shape of yellow planks and boards.
On every side, and of all sizes, hum the circulars, revolving so fast that
they appear stationary and can not show their teeth. A log or plank
approaches the innocent-looking, humming disk ; it touches, and there
rises a soaring shriek which may quaver through the whole gamut. The
timber divides swiftly, as if it were some impalpable fabric of a dream,
and behind the saw shoots up a curving yellow spray of sawdust.
From Ottawa to Montreal.
Every week-day morning, at J7.25, a steamer of the Ottawa River
Navigation Company leaves Ottawa for Montreal, and makes the run
in about 10 hours. The scenery on this trip is strong and picturesque.
The river rolls its brown tide between the stern hills of the Lauren-
tians, over mad rapids, and through wide, many-islanded reaches. There
is no monotony on this trip. The chief traffic of the river is in lumber,

54 OTTAWA TO MONTREAL.
and we overtake and pass fleets of roomy barges piled high with the
yellow deals and towed by gasping and laboring steam-tugs.
A mile below Ottawa we run past the mouth of a great river, the
Gatineau: This stream, draining a vast extent of country, discharges
an immense volume of water into the Ottawa; but the last 7 miles of
its course are rendered uunavigable by a succession of fierce rapids.
A few miles below the Gatineau is the mouth of the Liivre, * much
smaller stream, yet boasting a course of nearly 400 miles. This is the
land where the canoeist, besides all the sport with rod and gun that
his heart can wish, may conveniently taste the rapture of running rap
ids in his frail craft. This is a very different experience from the
descent in a great steamer, which lifts you so far above the waves that
you fail- to realize all their fury. Yet another experience is to make
the descent of the rapids on a raft of logs, amid the oaths or pious
ejaculations of the French lumbermen. The men surge desperately on
their long sweeps, but the unwieldy craft appears to wallow in utter
helplessness amid the terrific surges ; and when the descent has been
accomplished the traveler wonders how he came through alive. The
life of the river, in its combination of the homely and the picturesque,
its mixture of adventure and pathos, has been crystallized into an ex
quisite lyric by Mr. Lampman :
BETWEEN THE RAPIDS.
The point is turned ; the twilight shadow fills
The wheeling stream, the soft receding shore,
And on our ears from deep among the hills
Breaks now the rapid's sudden quickening roar.
Ah ! yet the same, or have they changed their face,
The fair green fields, and can it still be seen,
The white log cottage near the mountain's base,
So bright and quiet, so home-like and serene ?
Ah, well I question ; for, as five years go,
How many blessings fall, and how much woe !

The shore, the fields, the cottage jnst the same,
But how with them whose memory makes them sweet f
Oh, if I called them, hailing name by name,
Would the same lips the same old shouts repeat ?
Have the rough years, so big with death and ill,
Gone lightly by and left them smiling yet ?
Wild, black-eyed Jeanne whose tongue was never still,
Old wrinkled Picaud, Pierre, and pale Lisette,

Boutes between Ottawa and Montreal.

OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. 55
The homely hearts that never cared to range
While life's wide fields were filled with rush and change.
And where is Jacques and where is Verginie ?
I can not tell ; the fields are all a blur.
The lowing cows, whose shapes I scarcely see,
Oh, do they wait and do they call for her ?
And Is she changed, or is her heart still clear
As wind or morning, light as river-foam ?
Or have life's changes borne her far from here,
And far from rest, and far from help and home ?
Ah, comrades, soft, and let us rest awhile,
For arms grow tired with paddling many a mile.

Blacker and loftier grow the woods, and hark I
The freshening roar ! The chute is near us now,
And dim the caflon grows, and inky dark
The water whispering from the birchen prow.
One long last look, and many a sad adieu,
While eyes can see and heart can feel you yet,
I leave sweet home and sweeter hearts to you,
A prayer for Picaud, one for pale Lisette,
A kiss for Pierre, my little Jacques, and thee,
A sigh for Jeanne, a sob for Verginie.
Oh, does she still remember ? Is the dream
Now dead, or has she found another mate ?
So near, so dear ; and ah, so swift the stream I
Even now perhaps it were not yet too late.
But oh, what matter ? for before the night
Has reached its middle we have far to go :
Bend to your paddles, comrades ; see, the light
Ebbs off apace ; we must not linger so.
Aye thus it is 1 Heaven gleams and then is gone.
Once, twice it smiles, and still we wander on.
The next point of interest below the mouth of the Lievre is the
CJidteau of Montebelloy the home of the great French-Canadian Pa-
pineau. This man, whom the stress of a patriotic struggle misled
into rebellion, was one of the ablest and most eloquent of Canada's
sons. The principles he fought for have triumphed by constitutional
means, and his name is held now in all reverence. The chateau, in
which he spent his days after his recall from exile, is a picturesque
and beautiful structure, embowered in elms and savoring of Old
France. Below Montebello we pass the town of UOrignal, and not far off is

56 OTTAWA TO MONTREAL.
the mouth of the Kinonge, the outlet of the enchanting mountain-girt
lake of Comandeau. This water, which teems with trout, is best
reached by a portage from Grenville (the next place at which the
steamer arrives) to the river Rouge, which must be ascended in canoes
some miles to the Comandeau portage. The beauty of the scenery
will well repay the tourist who turns aside for this trip.
At Grenville we leave the steamer and take the train for Carillon,
to avoid the great rapids known as the Carillon, Long Sault, and Chute
au Blondeau. These three rapids are further circumvented by three
canals, used chiefly for the freight traffic. They were built by the
Imperial Government for military purposes, for which it is to be hoped
they may never be required. That which passes the Long Sault is
known as the Grenville Canal, and was excavated for six miles out of
what is mainly solid rock.
The Pass of the Long Sault, on the western shore, is to Canadians
holy ground, for there was enacted a deed of heroism than which the
pages of history can show none more magnificent. In 1660 the whole
force of the Iroquois confederacy bent itself to the destruction of the
French colonies of Villemarie and Quebec. The doom appeared in
evitable. But there were heroes of the ancient type in New France.
A young nobleman, the Sieur Daulac des Ormeaux, familiarly known
as Dollard, gathered a band of sixteen comrades, who devoted their
lives, with the most solemn ceremonial of the Church, to the task of
breaking the attack of the invaders. They intrenched themselves at
the Pass of the Long Sault. With them went some twoscore Huron
allies, all of whom but two chiefs deserted them when the enemy ap
peared. Five hundred yelling savages, the best of all Indian warriors,
swarmed upon the frail barricade ; and again and again they were
beaten off with tremendous slaughter, till they drew back to await re-
enforcements. For three days the handful of heroes held the post,
sleepless, and parched with terrible thirst; and when the last man of
them had struck his last blow, the Iroquois had no more stomach for
the fight. Their losses had been so heavy that they had to give up all
thought of attacking Villemarie, as Montreal wa3 called ; and Daulac had
saved New France. The story has been woven into a glowing romance
by Mrs. Catherwood, under the title of The Romance of Dollard.
At Carillon, where we resume the steamer, the Ottawa ceases to be
the boundary-line between the two provinces, and from this point on
we are in Quebec. Soon we enter the Lake of Two Mountains, an ir-

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OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. . 57
regular sheet of water from 3 to 4 miles in width and about 24 miles
long. Into this lake flows the Riviere d la Graisse, past the pretty vil
lage of Rigaud. This neighborhood was the scene of many conflicts
between the so-called " Patriots " and the Loyalists in the difficulties
of 18'AI. Near Rigaud rises a hill called the Montagne Ste. Magda-
laine. On the summit is a square field several acres in extent, whose
surface is covered with bowlders. These stones, by some strange
freak of Nature, have been set in long, orderly lines, so as to resemble
a newly plowed field, and the name of the place is called Pluie de Gu'e-
rcts. In this mysterious spot one can hear distinctly underground mur
murs as of flowing water ; but the digging of curious investigators has
failed to reveal the cause of this phenomenon. Far down the lake is
a charming summer resort, the Indian village of Oka. The Indians
have been removed and settled in a new domain in the Muskoka coun
try. Of the two mountains which give the lake its name, the larger
was called Calvary by the pioneers of New France. On the summit
of the steep were seven chapels, memorials of the mystic seven of St.
John's vision ; and hither, on many a pious pilgrimage, came the people
of Villemarie, taking their lives in their hands when they quitted the
shelter of their palisades. Below the Lake of Two Mountains is the
village of Ste. Anne, which we saw in our descent of the St. Lawrence,
and in the quaintly dressed crowd that gathers on the wharf we see an
epitome of the pieturesqueness of the habitants, as the French Cana
dian country folks are called. At this point the Ottawa splits his
mighty current into three streams, the largest of which helps furnish
the expanse of Lake St. Louis, while the two smaller flow north of
Laval and Montreal Islands. At St. Anne the steamer enters a short
canal of one lock to avoid a dangerous rapid. Here the Grand Trunk
crosses on to Montreal Island by a splendid and massive viaduct under
which the steamer passes with lowered funnel. On a point of the
island, a little beyond, we note the ruins of a castle built after a
medieval pattern as a defense against the Iroquois. There are two
such castles standing close together, with a circular tower on the hill
tops watching over their approaches. Within the high walls of the
castles was space enough to shelter all the women and children of the
ancient settlement.
At the drowsy and picturesque old town of Lachine, 8J miles from
Montreal, is the head of the canal by which the Lachine Rapids are
avoided on the upward trip. Before the canal was built, Lachine was

58 _ OTTAWA TO MONTREAL.
a place of great commercial importance ; now it is chiefly a place of
summer residence for citizens of Montreal. Its steep gables and old-
fashioned dormer-windows nestle amid the green of ancient trees. All
its neighborhood is historic ground, but the memories that cluster most
thickly about it are those of the great La Salle. Its site was granted
by the Sulpician Fathers to La Salle that he might establish there a
fortified outpost for the more effective defense of the city. La Salle
named his settlement La Chine, thus embalming his dominant idea of
a passage across the continent to the Indies and Cathay. La Salle
soon left it to follow his adventures, but the settlement continued to
flourish till the dreadful massacre of 1689, which we referred to in our
account of Kingston. The cause which led to this catastrophe has been
already related ; the catastrophe itself has thus been described by a
Canadian writer, Mr. C. V. Rogers :
"Nearly two centuries ago, on the night of August fi, 1689, as the
inhabitants of Lachine lay sleeping, amid a storm of hail upon the
lake, which effectually disguised the noise of their landing, a force of
many hundred warriors, armed and besmeared with war-paint, made a
descent upon Lachine. Through the night they noiselessly surrounded
every building in the village. With dawn the fearful war-whoop
awoke men, women, and children to their doom of torture and death.
The village was fired ; by its light, in the early morn, the horror-stricken
inhabitants of Montreal could see from their fortifications the nameless
cruelties which preceded the massacre. It is said the Iroquois indulged
so freely in the fire-water of the Lachine merchants that, had the de
fenders of Villemarie been prompt to seize the favorable moment, the
drunken wretches might have been slaughtered like swine. Paralyzed
by the horrors they had witnessed, the French let the occasion slip.
At nightfall the savages withdrew to the mainland, not, however, with
out signifying by yells — repeated to the number of ninety — how many
prisoners they carried away. From the ramparts of Villemarie and
amid the blackened ruins of Lachine the garrison watched the fires on
the opposite shore, kindled for what purposes of nameless cruelty they
knew too well. The fate of Lachine marks the lowest point in the
fortunes of New France ; by what deeds of heroism they were retrieved
is not the least glorious page in Canadian history."

PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
Quebec, the senior province of the Canadian confederation, occu
pies the greater portion of the St. Lawrence Valley. It has an ex
treme length, E. and W., of 1,000 miles, and a great diversity of

Punning Lachine Rapids.

PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 59
scenery and resources. For a long time it monopolized the name of
Canada ; and for a far longer period its history- was practically the
whole of Canadian history, save for what was being enacted in the
narrower sphere of the Acadian Peninsula. The following extremely
condensed abstract of the history of the province is taken from Dr.
Stewart's article on Quebec in the Encyclopaedia Britannica :
" Quebec was first visited by the French, under Jacques Cartier, in
1535, and a second time in 1536, though it is said that Sebastian
Cabot discovered the country in 1497. The regular settlement of the
province, however, was not made until 1608, when Samuel de Champ
lain landed at the site now occupied by Quebec City. Here he estab
lished military and trading posts, and it was not long before the new
possession became the seat of the Jesuit and Recollet missions, which
were zealously carried on under the most trying circumstances for
nearly a century and a half. The early settlers endured countless
hardships from the incursions of the Indians, and the frequent wars
iu which they were forced to engage with the English and Dutch. In
1759 the Marquis of Montcalm was defeated at Quebec by an English
army under General Wolfe. A year later the French surrendered all
their important posts, and the colony passed under English rule. In
1763 the Treaty of Paris was signed, by the terms of which, and the
conditions laid down a few years later in the memorable Quebec Act
of 1774, the French were guaranteed by England their laws, language,
and religion. In 1791 the colony was divided into Upper and Lower
Canada; but in 1841, after a series of internal dissensions, including
the rebellion of 1837, and several political quarrels, the country was
again united. In 1867 the provinces of Old Canada, under the names
of Ontario and Quebec, were erected, with New Brunswick and Nova
Scotia, into the Dominion of Canada."
Under the indulgent protection of England, Quebec has grown and
prospered, and developed a civilization unique in the modern world.
The province is in many respects a piece of Old France. In its re
ligious homogeneity it is almost mediaeval ; and along with this goes a
conservatism, as far as custom and tradition are concerned, which gives
the life of the habitant a marked individuality and local color. At the
same time the French Canadian has grown up under the responsibility
of self-government and British institutions, to which he very readily
adapted himself, and which have given him a certain political alertness.
Vividly conscious of his power in the confederation, he is not at all diffi-

60 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
dent in the exercise of it ; but, underlying a good deal of self-assertive
glorification of the illustrious race from which he is sprung, there is a
sound loyalty not only to the flag under whose shelter he has so pros
pered, but also to the young federation in which he plays so important
a part. To the romancer and the student of character, the province of
Quebec offers a field of almost unparalleled richness, which has as yet
been but little worked. To the lover of outdoor sports it offers almost
virgin woods and waters of unlimited possibilities. To the idle tourist,
who is so unfortunate as not to be preoccupied by any hobby, it offers
the attraction of novel scenes, unfamiliar customs, fresh experiences,
and an invigorating climate. JACQUES CARTIER.
No flame of war was he, no flower of grace,
No star of wisdom ; but a plain, bold man,
More careful of the end than of the plan.
No mystery was he afraid to face ;
No savage strategy, no furious storm,
No stings of climate, no nnthougut disease,
His master purpose wTould not bend to these,
But saw, through all, achievement's towering form.
He first beheld the gloomy Saguenay,
And Stadacona's high, forbidding brow ;
His venturous vision, too, did first survey
Pair Hochelaga, but not fair as now.
St. Malo holds his dust, the world his fame,
But his strong, dauntless soul 'tis ours to claim.
Matthew Richet Knight.
Montreal.
Hotels, etc. — The leading hotels are the Windsor, on Dominion
Square ; St. Lawrence Hall, on St. James St. ; the Balmoral, on Notre
Dame St., West ; and the Riciielieu Hotel, on Jacques Cartier Square,
the favorite French hostelry.
Modes of Conveyance. — Horse-cars traverse the city in every direc
tion, and afford easy access to principal points. Carriages wait at the
depots and steamboat-landings, and at various stands in the city.
Their charges are :
One-horse Vehicles. — One or two persons, 15 minutes, 25 cents; 30
minutes, 40 cents ; the first hour, 75 cents, and 60 cents for every sub
sequent hour. Three or four persons, 40 cents for 15 minutes, 60
cents for 30 minutes ; $1 for the first hour, and 75 cents for every
subsequent hour?

MONTREAL. 61
Two-horse Vehicles. — One or two persons, 50 cents for 15 minutes:
65 cents for 30 minutes, and $1 per hour. For three or four persons,
65 cents for 15 minutes, 75 cents for 30 minutes, and $1.25 per hour.
Clubs. — Metropolitan, on Beaver Hall Hill; and St. James, on
Dorchester St.
The Windsor Station is that from which the C. P. R. R. express trains
leave for Toronto, Sherbrooke, St. John, Quebec, etc. ; and from the
Dalhousie St. Station run most of the suburban trains of the same line,
together with the Ottawa express and the transcontinental train for
Winnipeg and Vancouver. The trains of the G. T. Ry, all leave from
the Bonaventnre Depot ; as do also the trains for Ottawa boat at La
chine. Steamers running down the St. Lawrence to Quebec and inter
mediate points, as well as for Toronto and the Lakes, leave from
wharves of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Co.
Trains leave Montreal at 7.45 a. m. and 5 p. m. to connect at Lachine
with boats about to run the rapids.
Population, with suburbs, 250,000.
Montreal is a microcosm of Canada. Here is the Old Canada side
by side with the New ; here French Canada and English Canada come
into close and perpetual contact, and yet maintain their individuality.
She stands between French Quebec, 172 miles east, and English To
ronto, 338 miles west. With a quarter of a million inhabitants, an un
rivaled site at the head of ocean navigation, yet in the heart of the
continent, with enormous wealth, and with all the resources of the
Northwest seeking an outlet through her port, Montreal is the com
mercial metropolis of Canada, and a city with the securest possible
future. She has a past also, heroic, romantic, and brilliant beyond that
of most cities of this New World, and a present in which all Canada
takes just pride. To Montreal the trade of the Northwest has been
tributary from its beginning. First, it was the fur-trade, whose mer
chant-princes, building their homes on Beaver Hall Hill, gave Canada
its fit emblem, the wise and capable beaver. Then came the lumber,
grain, and cattle trades, all pouring their wealth into the city's lap ;
and now the great transcontinental railway, the Canadian Pacific, with
its headquarters at Montreal, reaches out for the trade of "the gor
geous East," and realizes the dream of La Salle and those old explorers
who shattered their forces in the effort to find a route to Cathay.
The city takes her name from the mountain which stands guard
over her. The peculiar form of the name, " Mont Real," seems to point
to Portuguese influences somewhere in the dawn of her history. In
a succession of terraces the streets climb the mountain, all the summit
of which is reserved to the citizens as a matchless park. Business has

62 • MONTREAL.
gradually worked itself back, street by street, from the water-front,' till
now the once aristocratic exclusion of St. Catherine St. is a main artery
of trade. MONTREAL IN HISTORY.
In spite of the strongly differentiated elements of which Montreal's
population is composed — English Protestant and French Roman Catho
lic — race and religious antagonisms are kept subdued by much mutual
good-will and forbearance. For some time after the conquest, Protes
tants were allowed the use of a Roman church after the morning mass.
Every Sunday afternoon, from 1766 to 1786, a Church of England con
gregation occupied the Church of the Recollets. The same privilege
was afterward extended to the Presbyterians, up to 1792, when that
denomination moved to a church of its own. At this time this exceed
ingly Protestant congregation, to show its good-will and sense of grati
tude, made a parting gift to the Recollet priests, in the shape of candles
for the high altar and wine for the mass. A few years ago the pictur
esque and historic Bonsecours Church was about to be torn down to
make room for a railway station ; but a few Protestants, holding in
honor the associations of the building and the memory of the de
voted Sister who founded it, made a strong protest, and roused the
bishop to forbid the sale.
It was in the autumn of 1035 that Jacques Cartier, with a forty-
ton galleon and two open boats, ascended the St. Lawrence to seek
the city Hochelaga, of which the Indians had told him at Quebec. On
the 2d of October they reached the landing-place of Hochelaga, where
hundreds of Indians crowded about them in eager delight, and wel
comed them with gifts of fish and maize. The Indian city lay some
way back from the water, at the foot of the mountain. Around it
rustled fruitful corn-fields, and around the corn-fields rose the black
masses of the ancient woods. The town was fenced with a triple row
of heavy palisades formed of the trunks of trees. In the center of
the town was an open square, wherein Cartier was received as a demi
god, and besought to heal the sick with his touch. This he could not
do, but he could bestow gifts, which is a semi-divine function ; and
after this ceremony he ascended the mountain, followed by a troop of
adoring natives. When the full magnificence of this unrivaled land
scape unfolded itself before him, he very fittingly gave the Mount the
name of Royal. Not till seventy years after Cartier's visit did Euro
pean eyes again behold the site of Montreal. Then Champlain under-

MONTREAL. 63
took the work that Cartier had begun. But he found no town of
Hochelaga. There had been war among the tribes, the maize-fields
had been laid waste, and the city wiped out by fire. The story of its
destruction was detailed to Champlain by two old Indians who fuided
him up the mountain. The tale is a romantic one, and tells how
" Hurons and Senecas lived in peace and friendship together at Hoche
laga for many generations. They intermarried and had no cause for
quarrel, till, for some reason, a Seneca chief refused his son permission
to marry a Seneca maiden. Enraged at the action of the stern parent,
the lady refused all offers of marriage, and declared she would only
wed the warrior who should slay the chief who had interfered with
her happiness. A young Wyandot, smitten by her charms, attacked
and killed the old chief and received the coveted reward. The Senecas,
however, adopted the cause of their chief, and a terrible fratricidal war
spread desolation throughout the Huron country, nor did it cease till the
Iroquois had completely broken up and almost exterminated the Hurons."
In 1611, having founded Quebec, Champlain selected the site for a
trading-post at Montreal. It was on a small stream which enters the
St. Lawrence where the Custom-House now stands. He called the spot
Place Royale. Though coming after Cartier, Champlain is rightly
called the father of Canada. Parkman says of him : " Of the pioneers
of the North American forests, his name stands foremost on the list.
It was he who struck the deepest and foremost stroke into the heart
of their pristine barbarism. At Chantilly, at Fontainebleau, at Paris,
in the cabinets of princes and of royalty itself, mingling with the
proud vanities of the court ; then lost from sight in the depths of
Canada, the companion of savages, sharer of their toils, privations, and
battles, more hardy, patient, and bold than they ; such, for successive
years, were the alternations of this man's life."
On the 14th of October, 1641, Montreal was founded by Maison-
neuve, for the Company of Montreal, who had obtained a cession of
the whole island. In the following spring the city was consecrated,
under the name of Ville-Marie. With the expedition of city builders,
numbering 57, went one Mile. Jeanne Mance, of unfading memory,
carrying with her, to assist in the founding of the city, a sum that
would be equivalent now to a round quarter of a million. This was the
donation of a wealthy widow in France, Madame de Bouillon. Not till
1643 did the Iroquois learn of this new settlement ; but then, and for
half a century thereafter, the city found itself engaged in an almost in-

64 MONTREAL.
cessant struggle for its existence. On what is now known as the Place
d'Armes, Maisonneuve had a hand-to-hand contest with the savages. All
through this terrible half-century of trial the garrison of ViUe-Marie
consisted of never more than 50 men. In 1663 the rights of the Com
pany of Montreal were purchased by the Seminary of St. Sulpice, which
still holds certain seignorial rights over the island. In 1665 the Mar
quis de Tracy arrived on the scene with a portion of the famous
Carignan Regiment, and broke the power of the Mohawks. By 1672
the population of the city had increased to 1,520, and suburbs began
to appear outside the walls. But, though the Mohawks had been
crushed, war was still the heritage of this city, whose foundation had
been under the auspices of a religion of peace. In 1690 a little army
of 200 French and Indians made an expedition from Montreal on snow-
shoes southward through the wilderness, and laid waste with fire and
sword the Dutch settlement at Schenectady. The retort of the English
colonies was an expedition in force under Governor Winthrop and Major
Schuyler, which advanced on Montreal by way of Lake Champlain,
while a fleet under Sir William Phipps was sent against Quebec. But
in those days the star of New France was in the ascendant, and both
forces were triumphantly repulsed.
After the victory of Wolfe on the Plains of Abraham, Montreal
was the spot in which the power of Franco in America made its last
stand. About its walls the armies of England closed in swiftly and
surely. When they met, there was nothing for Montreal to do but
capitulate. During the American War of Independence Colonel Ethan Allen,
with 200 of his "Green Mountain Boys," advanced to the attack of
Montreal, but was defeated and taken prisoner by Governor Carleton.
Later came Montgomery, and forced the city to capitulate. Montreal
was taken possession of in the name of the Continental Congress, and
Benjamin Franklin came north and endeavored to persuade the Cana
dians to join in the rebellion. In this attempt he failed signally ; but
he left behind him a memorial of his presence by establishing a news
paper. This journal, the Gazette, which enjoys to this day a pros
perous existence, is now marked by a sturdy loyalty which belies the
circumstances of its foundation. In the spring of 1777, after the de
feat and death of Montgomery at Quebec, the American forces evacu
ated Montreal ; and never since have her streets known the tread of
hostile feet.

REFERENCE TO FIGURES.
Hotel*.
1 Windsor B 3
2 St. Lawrence Hall D 3
5 Richelieu E 4
6 Albion D 3
Prominent Building.
7 Custom House E 3
8 Court House E 4
9 City Hall E 5
10 Post Office D 3
11 Y. Men-BChriBt. Am. D3
I .' Bonsecours Market E 5
13 Merchant:/ Exchange ]
14 Bank of Montreal D 4
IS MaeoDlcHnllX>4
16 Molson'sBank D ¦',
toria Skatiug Rink B 2
McGill College A 4
Mue. of the Nat. Hist. Soc.
B 3
Geological Museum E 4
21 Sent, of St. Sulplee i> 4
22 A-vliim for the Blind C 5
23 Hotel Dleu A 6
S4 Grey Nunnery A 1
25 Black or Cong. Nunnery
E4
26 Nelson Monument E G
27 Victoria Square D 3
28 Chomp de Mars E 6
Churches,
29 Notre-Dame E 4
30 Cathedral of St. Peter B 3
SI Christ Ch. Cathedral B 4
32 St. James D 6
33 St. Patrick's C 3
34 Church of the Gesu C 4

MONTREAL. 65
A quaint episode in the early history of Montreal iB connected with
the Carignan llegiment already mentioned. These veterans, when their
time had expired, were disbanded and settled in Canada. In embrac
ing a farmer's life they found themselves in need of many things not
formerly deemed essential. Above all, they needed wives— for what is
a farmer without the farmer's wife ? A lot of girls were thereupon
selected in France and shipped to Canada to supply this long-felt
want. Baron La [Ionian has left us an amusing account of the con
signment of prospective brides which were sent out in 1684 : •' After
the reduction of these troops many vessels loaded with girls were sent
out under the direction of some old beginners, who divided them into
three classes. These damsels were, so to speak, piled up, the one on
the other, in three different chambers, where the husbands chose their
wives, in the same manner as the butcher goes to choose his sheep in
the midst of the flock. There was material to content the fantastical
in the diversity of girls in these three seraglios — for there were to be
seen there tall and short, fair and brown, lean and fat ; in short, every
one found a shoe to fit his foot. At the end of fifteen days not one
remained. I am told that the fattest were the soonest carried off, be
cause it was imagined that, being less active, they would have more
trouble to leave their housekeeping, and would better resist the cold of
the winter ; but many people who went on this principle were taken in
by it. . . . Those who desired to marry addressed themselves to the
directresses, to whom they were bound to declare their property and
faculties before choosing from these three classes her whom they found
' to thoir taste. The marriage was concluded on the spot by the aid of
the priest and the notary, and the next day the Governor caused to be
distributed to the married a bull, a cow, a hog, a sow, a cock, a hen,
two barrels of salt meat, eleven crowns, and certain acres."
POINTS OF INTEREST.
The tourist visiting Montreal will probably go first to that famous
palace hotel, the Windsor, which is one of the finest hotels on the con
tinent. The Windsor is, moreover, one of the centers of Montreal life,
and its rotunda is the great trysting-place for Montreal's inhabitant s.
Before undertaking to " do " the city one should view it as a whole
from the top of the mountain, and so possess one's self of the " lay "
of tho streets and chief points of interest, and equip one's self with
a proper realization of the magnificence of the city's island throne.
5

QQ MONTREAL.
Gaining the summit by beautifully winding drives, or more directly by
what seems an endless stairway, we stand on what was once an active
volcano. Far below, between the mountain and the river, lies spread
out the broad confusion of the city roofs and streets and towers, fringed
along the shining water-limits with the masts and funnels of its ship
ping. Beyond the water lie great breadths of flat country, bounded
on the far horizon by the twin mountains of St. Hilaire. In an
other direction we see a silent city clinging to the steep — the ceme
teries of Cote-des-Neiges and Mount Royal. Away to the westward
over Nun's Island the surges of Lachine are glittering in the sun.
Straight across the river, almost in the center of the panorama, runs
the famous Victoria Bridge, regarded at the time of its con
struction as the eighth wonder of the world. Some distance to the
left St. Helen's Island divides the giant stream; and in the middle
distance, dominating the roofs of the city, rise the majestic twin
towers of Notre Dame. On the other side of the mountain, fenced
by the reaches of Back River, lie the opulent villages, farms, and
orchards which have earned for Montreal Island the title of the Gar
den of Canada.
Descending the mountain and re-entering the mazes of the streets,
we make our way first to the historic Place d' Amies. This was
the first burying-ground of the pioneers. Now it is a railed space of
trees, cool with the spray of its fountain and with the shade of the
stately buildings surrounding it. On the south side stands the parish
church of Notre Dame, one of the largest ecclesiastical structures on
the continent. It accommodates 10,000 people easily, and has been
known to contain 15,000 within its walls. Its towers are 227 ft. high.
It has a magnificent chime of 11 bells, of which one, called the Gros
Bourdon, is the largest in America, and weighs 29,400 pounds. From
the summit of the tower which contains the bells a splendid view is
obtained. The entire cost of the Church of Notre Dame was in the
neighborhood of $6,1.00,000.
Alongside of Notre Dame stands the ancient Seminary of St. Sul-
pice, built more than two centuries ago, its massive wall, pierced with
loopholes, looking grimly down on the thronged and peaceful street.
The seminary shares with the Bank of Montreal, whose pillared abode
rises on the opposite side of the square, the distinction of being the
wealthiest institution in America. In the immediate vicinity of the
Place d'Armes throng the splendid structures of the Post-Office the

MONTREAL. 67
Jacques-Cartier Bank, the Banque Nationale, and the buildings of the
New York Life and other insurance companies.
As far as situation goes, and perhaps in other respects as well, the
finest square in the city is Dominion Square. It is high and spacious,
and about it gather several fine churches ; the vast pile of the Wind
sor Hotel ; and, overshadowing them all, the great Roman Catholic
Cathedral, which is known as St.. Peter's in spite of the fact that St.
James is its patron saint. This noble structure is a facsimile of St.
Peter's at Rome, with its dimensions reduced about one half. The ex
treme measurements of this cathedral are : length 333 ft., breadth 222
ft., height 258 ft., circumference of dome 240 ft.
Of the other Roman Catholic churches of the city the most inter
esting to tourists are the beautiful Church of Notre Dame de Lourdes,
on the corner of St. Catherine and St. Denis Sts. ; the Jesuits' Church
on Bleury St., with its unrivaled frescoes and exquisite music; the
Chapel of Notre Dame de Nazareth, with its fine paintings ; and the
famous old Bonsecours Church, which was built in 1771.
Of the Anglican churches the finest, from an architectural point of
view, are St. George's, the Church of St. James the ApMle, and the stately
Christ Church Cathedral at the corner of University and St. Cath
erine Sts. This latter structure is, perhaps, with the exception of Christ
Church Cathedral at Fredericton, the most perfect specimen of pure
Gothic architecture on the continent. A noble and massive structure
is the new Methodist church on St. Catherine St. The Presbyterians
have a number of fine churches, of which the most noteworthy, archi
tecturally, are St. Paul's, tho Crescent Street, and the American Presby
terian. The old St. Gabriel's Church, which was erected in 1792 at
the west end of the Champ-de-Mars, is still standing, and now shelters
the School of Art. Montreal has three Jewish synagogues, one of
which, lately erected on Stanley St., is an impressive structure some
what after the lines of an old Egyptian temple.
Besides the Place d'Armes and Dominion Square, already referred to,
Montreal has other parks and squares. She is well supplied with breath
ing-places. There is the historic Champ de Mars, on Craig St., still used
as a. parade-ground. Near the City Hall is Jacques-Cartier Square,
adorned by two Russian guns from the spoils of Sebastopol, and by a col
umn and statue erected in 1808 in memory of Nelson. At the junc
tion of McGill and St. James Sts. is Victoria Square, formerly the hay-
market, presided over by a colossal bronze statue of the Queen. On

68 MONTREAL.
St. Denis St., the aristocratic French residence quarter, are the Viger
Gardens. St. Helen's Island, moreover, is now used as a public park,
though belonging to the English Government. It is the favorite resort
of the city picnickers, and forgets its martial experiences of old times.
Champlain's wife, in whose honor the island is named, was the first
European woman of gentle birth to cast in her lot with Canada. A
place of resort which the tourist should not fail to visit is the Bon.
secours Market. The great market-days are Tuesday and Friday
when the broad space is thronged with habitants* and one comes into
close contact with the quaint material of which French Canada is really
made up.
Montreal is not only a city of churches, but of hospitals and benev
olent institutions as well. The largest and wealthiest of these is the
HUel-Dieu, under the management of the Black Nuns. This institu
tion was founded in 1644. The famous Grey Nunnery, founded in
1738, is not a convent, but a hospital, under the management of the
Grey Nuns. According to Murray's Guide to Montreal, " The name
' Grey Nuns ' was first given them in derision. The malicious reports
circulated against the ladies, especially that of furnishing the Indians
with alcohol, and making too free a use of it themselves, gave rise to
the epithet ' Soeurs Grises,' the word griie bearing a double meaning in
French, viz., a gray color, or tipsy." The Sisters who were thus cruelly
assailed have made the once opprobrious epithet a title of the highest
honor. The best time for visitors to call at the Grey Nunnery is at
the noon hour, when callers are always made welcome. The Royal Vic
toria Hospital is the gift of two of Montreal's chief citizens, S.ir George
Stephens and Sir Donald Smith. Just below Hochelaga, beyond the
eastern limits of the city, stood the vast structure of the Longue Poinle
Asylum, which was burned to the ground in the summer of 1890. This
institution was in charge of a Roman Catholic religious order. Sixty
of the inmates, including several of the nuns in charge, perished in the
conflagration. Among the educational institutions are McGill University, the
Presbyterian College, the Montreal College or Seminary of St. Sulpice,
the Veterinary College, St. Mary's or the Jesuit))' College, the Montreal
branch of Laval University, whose parent institution is at Quebec, the
Villa-Maria Convent School for Girls, and the Girls' School of the Nuns
* French Canadian country-folk.

MONTREAL. 69
of the Sacred Heart. Of these the most important is of course McGill
University, which, under the presidency of the renowned Sir William
Dawson, has grown to a world-wide fame and influence. The pride of
the city, it receives munificent gifts from wealthy citizens, and is ever
reaching out to wider spheres of usefulness. Its buildings, which are
on Sherbrooke St., the " Fifth Avenue " of Montreal, stand in the midst
of fine grounds, and contain a good library and the famous Redpath
Museum. Affiliated with McGill are the Presbyterian, Congregational,
Wesleyan, and Anglican Colleges of Montreal, together with Morrin
College at Quebec and St. Frances College, Richmond. The tourist
will do well to visit the Art Gallery on Phillips Square, and the rooms
of the Natural History Society on University St. The museum of this
society is the best in Canada. Among its treasures are the " Ferrier
Collection " of Egyptian antiquities, the most perfect of its kind on the
continent. Here also may be seen the first breech-loading gun ever
made. We read in Murray's Guide that " it was sent out to this coun
try by the French Government. It was used by the French in one of
their expeditions against the Indians of Lake Oka. The Indians at
tacked the canoe in which the cannon was placed and upset it. The
cannon lay for a while in the bottom of the lake, and one part of it was
lost there and never found." The museum also contains the best exist
ing collection of Canadian birds.
One of the chief "lions" of Montreal is the famous Victoria
Bridge, already mentioned as the " eighth wonder of the world." The
engineering genius that spanned the Menai Strait — the genius of
Robert Stephenson and Alexander M. Ross — designed this mighty
structure by which the Grand Trunk Ry. crosses the St. Lawrence
from Montreal to the south shore. With a length of a few yards less
than 2 miles, this is the longest bridge in the world. It is a vast tube,
supported on 24 piers, exclusive of the terminal abutments. The tube
has inside diameters of 22 ft. vertical and 16 ft. horizontal. From the
bed of the river to the top of the center tube is a distance of 1 08 ft.
The current of the St. Lawrence at this point has a speed of about 7
miles an hour. The cost of the bridge was $6,300,000, and its con
struction occupied five years and a half. It was formally opened by
the Prince of Wales in 1860. Close by the bridge, at Point St. Charles,
is the burying-ground of 6,000 immigrants who died in 1847-48 of a
frightful epidemic of ship-fever. In the center of the burying-ground
is a huge bowlder known as the Immigrants' Memorial Stone, which

70 MONTREAL.
was taken from the bed of the river and raised on a column of masonry
by the workmen engaged in the construction of the bridge.
In sharp contrast with the gigantic tube of the Victoria Bridge is
the aerial structure by which the Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the
St. Lawrence at Lachine. This bridge is built on the most modern
design, and is a brilliant application of the cantilever principle. Its
spans appear like clusters of great steel cobwebs. They offer little
resistance to the winds, and combine the greatest strength with the
least possible weight.
Prominent among the buildings of Montreal are the capacious
Bonaventure Depot, belonging to the Grand Trunk Ry., and the splen
did new station of the Canadian Pacific on Windsor St. This latter
edifice may honestly be called palatial, resembling as it does a palace
far more than a railway station.
In connection with the water-supply of Montreal there is a point of
interest for the tourist. This is the great reservoir, which is hewn out
of the solid rock far up the side of the mountain. The reservoir has
a capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. It is supplied by an aqueduct
which leads the water of the St. Lawrence from above the Lachine
Rapids to a point on the western limit of the city, whence it is
pumped up the mountain to the reservoir.
The tourist who is interested in athletics and outdoor sports will
see some splendidly contested Lacrosse matches at the grounds of the
Shamrock and Montreal Clubs, and he will do well to visit the admi
rably equipped gymnasium of the Montreal Amateur Athletic Associa
tion. At the Lacrosse Grounds matches are usually being played on
Saturday afternoons, or other days as advertised, and admission is by
ticket. If he is at all touched with Anglomania he will be enraptured
with the Montreal Hunt Club, the best-conducted establishment of the
kind on the continent. In respect of sports, Montreal is as well off in
winter as in summer. Men and women alike are enthusiastic devotees
of the hardy pastime of tobogganing. Perhaps the best skaters and
snow-shoers in the world are the sons and daughters of Montreal. Her
Winter Carnivals, with their ice castles stormed by torchlight their
gay skating tournaments and masquerades, their unrivaled snow-shoe
parades, have become world-famous. The climax of the Carnival is
the assault upon the ice-castle, which, illuminated within by electric
light, flames with a white and ghostly radiance recalling the dream-
palaces of Kublai Khan. Down the mountain wind the assailing lines

ExtempoHzed Railroad on the frozen St. Lawrence, near Lonyueuil.

MONTREAL. 71
of torch-bearers, their strange costumes more strange in the lurid light ;
and the spectral citadel is carried with tumult, amid a many-colored
storm of rockets, Roman candles, and all the most gorgeous of pyro
technic devices.
The following eminently practical bit from Murray's Illustrated
Guide may be found useful by some travelers :
How to visit the Principal Places of Interest in the Shortest Time for
the Least Money.
In whatever quarter of the city you are lodging, the first place to
visit is the Notre Dame Church.
From the Windsor, if you do not wish to hire a cab, walk down
Windsor St. to the corner of St. Antoine St. From there take the
street-cars going E., and tell the conductor to let you off at the Post-
Office, and then a few paces from you is Notre Dame Church and sev
eral other places of interest. A few blocks E. from there is the New
City Hall, the Court-House, Nelson's Monument, St. Gabriel St. old
Presbyterian Church, and not far away is the Bonsecours Market and
Bonsecours Church. While there you may visit the harbor and the
New Custom-House, about a halt-mile farther W. Then walk up Mc
Gill St. to Victoria Square, whence you may get the street-ears to take
you to the principal places of interest up town. First visit the Notre
Dame de Lourdes, near the corner of St. Catherine and St. Denis Sts.
Thence retrace your steps westward till you come to Bleury St., and
there is the old Jesuits' Church and College. Then turn up to St.
Catherine St., W., till you come to the Art Gallery, corner of Phillips
Square. Then visit the English Cathedral and the Museum of the
Natural History Society. Then take the street-cars till you come W.
as far as Guy St., and visit the Grey Nunnery at noon. After dinner,
hire a cab to take you to the Me Gill College (there is a very interesting
museum in connection with the college, which visitors may enter on
payment of a small entrance fee), and close by are the two city reser
voirs ; and if you don't wish to hire a cab to take you to the top of the
mountain, you can go up by the elevator for 5c. Then, after you have
taken a good view of the surrounding country from the top of the
mountain, and visited the two cemeteries, you can come back to the
city by the omnibuses for 15c., and you have a day well spent, and not
over $1 of necessary expense, besides your hotel bill.

72 MONTREAL TO ST. JOHN.
From Montreal to St. John.
From Montreal the tourist, who has already visited Quebec, may go
direct to the Maritime Provinces by the Canadian Pacific Short Line
(fare, $13.50; return, $19) which traverses the so-called Eastern Town
ships, the great hunting and fishing districts about Lake Megantic in
N. E. Maine, and thence, almost as the crow flies, to St. John, New
Brunswick. By this route we cross the St. Lawrence by the new Cana
dian Pacific R. R. bridge at Lachine, and run through the Indian village
of Coughnawaga, where dwell the remnants of the Iroquois. These
Indians are magnificent boatmen, and in the late Egyptian war a band
of fifty of them did splendid service for England in the rapids of the
Nile. At Brighton Junction the Montreal and Boston Air-Line di
verges for the White Mountains. Soon we come in sight of Memphre-
magog's shining waters, watched over by the famous peaks of Ele-
phantis and Owl's Head. From Magog Station a steamer departs daily
on a circuit of the lake's winding shores, stopping at the many summer
resorts for which the region is famous. After passing Magog, the next
important station is Sherbrooke, the metropolis of the Eastern Town
ships, a pretty city at the junction of the Magog and St. Francis Rivers.
Sherbrooke has a population of between 9,000 and 10,000, and is
building up a large manufacturing interest. The falls of the Magog
are well worth a visit. The chief hotels are the Sherbrooke House,
Magog House, and Grand Central, charging from $1.50 to $2 per day.
From Sherbrooke the Quebec Central R. R. runs through a rapidly
developing country to Quebec. On the Quebec Central are the in
teresting and valuable asbestos mines of Thetford. Three miles be
yond Sherbrooke is the pretty little university town of Lennoxvi/le,
the seat of the Church of England institutions of Bishop's College
and Bishop's College School. These institutions have of late been
making very great progress under the principalship of Dr. Adams;
but the corporation has lately suffered a severe blow in the destruction
by fire of the fine university building. Beyond Lennoxville the next
point of interest is Spider Lake, sometimes called the Geneva of Can
ada, where the club-house of the Megantic Fish and Game Club is
located. Then we come to Lake Megantic, a body of water 12 miles
long, from 1 to 4 in width, and a veritable Mecca of sportsmen. The
name Megantic signifies " the resort of fish." There is "fair accommo
dation at Megantic Station, and competent guides may be procured on the

MONTREAL TO ST. JOHN. 73
spot. A few miles beyond Megantic we cross the boundary-line, and
find ourselves in the State of Maine. Just 20 miles from Megantic
Station we run into the village of Lowelltown, on the shore of the
grandest of all Maine waters, the famous Moosehead Lake. This water
is 40 miles long and from 1 to 15 wide. Its scenery is magnificent and
varied. Its waters are splendidly stocked with trout of great size, and
around its shores are admirable shooting-grounds, where one may bag
such game as moose, bear, deer, and caribou, to say nothing of grouse
innumerable. At Lowelltown are guides and canoes, and several com
fortable hotels. From Greenville, another lake-side town, steamers
run to all the points of interest on the lake, including the well-known
Kineo House at the foot of Mount Kineo. Moosehead Lake is the
source of the Kennebec River, which flows out of the lake at Askwith
Station. In the 100 miles of comparative wilderness between Moose
head Lake and Mattawamkeag the chief points of interest are Boar-
stone Mountain and the lovely Lake Onawa. At Brownville Junction
we cross the line of the Katahdin Iron Works Railway. At Mattawam
keag the C. P. R. R. unites with the line connecting Bangor and St. John.
At tlie same point the track crosses the Penobscot River. From this
point to Vanceboro, on the New Brunswick boundary, we pass through
a rugged country, full of lakes and streams, and dotted here and there
with crude little lumbering villages. Vanceboro is on the 8l. Croix
River, the outlet of the boundary, or Cbiputneticook Lakes. The re
gion of these lakes is a good one for the sportsman, and Vanceboro is a
convenient point from which to reach them. Six miles beyond Vance
boro is McAdam Junction, a village whose houses are perched in such
vacant spaces as can be found between the huge bowlders which cover
the face of the land. At McAdam connections are made for Woodstock
and Presque Isle to the N., and for Calais, St. Stephen, and the lovely
summer resort of St. Andrew's to the S. Forty miles beyond McAdam
is the little village of Fredericton Junction, 20 miles from Fredericton ;
and a run of 44 miles beyond Fredericton Junction, through scenes to
be described in later pages, brings us to the city of St. John.
Montreal to Quebec by the St. Lawrence.
If the tourist has not seen Quebec, then assuredly he will not take
the short line to the Maritime Provinces. By one of three routes he will
certainly betake himself to a city that is perhaps, in many respects, the
best worth seeing on the continent N. of Mexico ; and from Quebec

74 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
he will seek the Maritime Provinces probably by the Intercolonial
R. R., or, if very much addicted to the water, by steamer around
the Gulf coast. From Montreal, one may go to Quebec either by the
Grand Trunk down the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, or by the Canadian
Pacific down the N. shore, or by steamer down the mighty stream itself.
As it is to be presumed that the traveler has plenty of time, and desires
plenty of scenery, we would recommend the last-named route. The
splendid palace steamers that ply between Montreal and Quebec belong
to the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company. The distance is
180 miles ; and the first-class fare, not including supper or berth, is $3.
As the steamer leaves Montreal we pass the village of Longueuil,
on the S. shore, where many of Montreal's citizens have their summer
abodes. At Longueuil, in 1775, Governor Carleton was defeated by
the American forces. On the N. shore, a little beyond, is Longue
Pointe, with the ruins of the great asylum already mentioned. Nine
miles from Montreal we pass I'oint-aux-Trembles, with its old French
church, which was built in 1704. A little farther on, and we are
among the flat and reedy Isles of Boucherville, where admirable are
the pike-fishing and duck-shooting in their seasons. Among these
shoals and islands and reaches of slow water, the ice, in the spring
breaking-up, is apt to run aground and jam, causing floods which
Montreal finds very troublesome. Fifteen miles from Montreal is the
charmingly situated health-resort of Varennes, made important by its
mineral springs. The fields of Varennes are washed in front by the
St. Lawrence, and in the rear by the arrowy tide of the lovely and his
toric Richelieu. Thirty miles beyond Varennes the Richelieu flows into
the St. Lawrence. At this point stands Sorel, which has lately been pro
moted to the dignity of a city. Here in 1665 a fort was established by
De Tracy. Sorel was for a long time the summer residence of the Gov
ernors of Canada. There is good fishing among the islands which clus
ter at the Richelieu's mouth, and in October the neighborhood affords
capital snipe-shooting. The population of Sorel in 1881 was 5791.
In the towns and counties along the Richelieu are perpetuated the
names of the officers of the old Carignan-Salieres Regiment, who were
stationed on seignories throughout this region to guard the approaches
to Villemarie. As Mr. Hunter picturesquely puts it, they are " picketed
around the ancient rendezvous at the confluence of the Richelieu and
St. Lawrence, ... as though still guarding the Iroquois River-Gate."
Here, besides Varennes, we have Berthier, Lavaltrie, Boucher, Contre-

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 75
coeur, and Vercheres. One of the most illustrious of Canada's heroines
is Madeleine, daughter of Lieutenant Vercheres. Veroheres's fort was
called " Castle Dangerous," being so exposed to the assaults of the Iro
quois. On one occasion Madeleine, with a force of three men and two
little boys, sustained the attacks of the Iroquois for a whole week, till
help came from Quebec. The girl was at this time but fourteen years
of age. Her followers, on the first attack, were for killing themselves,
to escape the torture of the Iroquois, but her dauntless courage and
energy gave them new heart, and her wisdom taught them to conduct
the defense successfully.
The valley of the Richelieu was for two centuries a pathway of war,
along which fire and sword, Iroquois and Abenakis, French and Dutch
and English, Canadian and American, streamed alternately on errands of
vengeful hate. The tourist who wishes to travel this blood-stained track
will ascend through landscapes of blended sublimity and peace, and find
himself at length on the bosom of that magnificent lake, no longer
Canadian, which yet perpetuates the name of the Father of Canada,
Samuel de Champlain. Like the war parties of old, he will find him
self in the very heart of the State of New York. Unlike those ancient
visitors, however, his visit will be not unwelcome. He will have found
his ascent of the rushing Richelieu made easy by the Chambly Canal.
He will have traversed the rich and lovely Eastern Townships and
caught their distinctive flavor. He will probably delay his trip, and
linger long and wander hither and thither in this delightful land of
lake and mountain. Besides Lakes Memphremagog and Megantic he
will visit the lovely waters of Brome and Massawippi. Through the wild,
maple-wooded hills he will trace the path by which, in 1759, the aveng
ing band of Rogers's Rangers swept to the slaughter of the Abenakis
— after which the homes of New England had peace for a little.
But the strife of man will presently be forgotten as we mark how
the struggles of warring Nature, in forgotten ages, have scored the face
of all this region with their gigantic and indelible records. The effects
of these ancient cataclysms, together with the sphere of their opera
tion, have been thus well described by Mr. J. Howard Hunter, in Pict
uresque Canada ;
"Throughout this land the strata have been much shaken and
changed by some Titanic force — seemingly steam heated beyond the
scale of any pyrometer, and tortured under pressure which would be
inadequately gauged by thousands of tons to the square inch. Sir Will-

76 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
iam Logan traced a line of dislocation from Missisquoi Bay on Lake
Champlain to Point L'evis, along which the wrenching asunder of strata
is equivalent to a vertical displacement of many thousands of feet.
Westward of this line of rupture — which we shall call Logan's line —
the sedimentary rocks that were directly exposed to incandescent steam,
softened, rearranged their elements, and ran to a glassy or stony paste.
Under the enormous pressure below, the surface-strata presently cracked
and sometimes opened wide. Instantly into the cracks and fissures
rushed the pasty rock, forming dikes of trachyte or diorite. In places
the very granite foundations of the world seem to have softened and
followed the sedimentary rocks to the surface. Where the ground
yielded most, stately pyramids of mountain-protoplasm were born. It
is to such throes of Mother Earth that we owe the beautiful sisterhood
of Belueil Mountain and Yamaska, Rougemont and Mount Mannoir, the
Boucherville Mountains and Mount Royal itself. Eastward^ of Logan's
line more intense still must have been the energy that girdled Lake
Memphremagog with such soaring peaks as Mount Orford, Owl's Head,
and Elephantis. Within historic times some severe earthquakes have
shaken this area, but even the most violent were gentle pastime com
pared with the elemental wars of geological antiquity. To be sure,
every one was frightened by these earthquakes, but then no one was
killed. From the records of the old Jesuit mission on the St. Francis
we learn that on the 5th of September, 1732, the Indian village was so
rudely shaken as to destroy its identity ; of this bouleversement traces
are still discernible on both sides of the river. More general, and far
more violent, was the famous earthquake of 1663. On the 5th of Feb
ruary began a series of convulsions which did not quite disappear till
midsummer. Land-slides occurred all along the river-banks, and the
blue St. Lawrence ran white as far down as Tadousac. Every one ex
plained the phenomenon in his own way. At Montreal, not a few con
sciences were smitten for having sold fire-water to the Indians. The
Indians, however, declared that the shades of their forefathers, were
struggling to return to the earthly hunting-grounds, and, most unduti-
fully, they kept firing off their muskets to scare their unquiet sires ;
' for,' quoth the musketeers, ' it's plain to see there's not game enough
on earth for both of us ! ' "
The earliest recorded name of the Richelieu River, as found in
Champlain's narratives, is Rivifre des Yrocois ; so called because it led
to the land of the Mohawks. The chief town on the Richelieu is the
pretty little garrison city of St. John, with a population of about 5,000.
Chief hotel the Canada Hotel.
A few miles below the mouth of the Richelieu the St. Lawrence
opens out into the great expanse called Lake St. Peter. Cartier named
this water, when first he ascended the St. Lawrence, Lac dAngouleme ;
but sixty-eight years later it was visited by Champlain on St. Peter's
Day, and named in pious commemoration of the festival. The lake is

Fort Chambly, on the Richdieu River, near Montreal.

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 77
25 miles in length by 9 miles in breadth, and is shallow except in the
channel, which has been dredged to afford safe passage to the largest
ocean steamers. The shallow waters are subject to sudden and violent
storms, by which the great rafts on their leisurely way to Quebec are
frequently wrecked. The wide waters of Lake St. Peter were once
famous for the songs of the raftsmen delayed on the sluggish current.
At the foot of Lake St. Peter is a sharp bend called Pointe Platon,
with a little island over against it whereon of old stood a fort. It was
called Fort Richelieu, and was established by Champlain in 1633. All
vestiges of the fort have vanished, but its memory lingers in the name
of the swift and broken water below Pointe Platon, which is known
as the Richelieu Rapid.
A little below Lake St. Peter flows in from the north the great St.
Maurice River, which will be referred to later on. At its mouth stands
the city of Three Hirers, ranking third in importance and population
among the cities of the province. This city stands midway between
Montreal and Quebec, at the head of tide- water on the St. Lawrence.
It has a population of about 10,000, and is the center of a heavy trade
iu lumber and iron. Around the city lie vast deposits of bog-iron ore,
and the great lumbering interests of the upper St. Maurice find an outlet
through its port. Three Rivers is the see of a Roman Catholic bishop,
whose cathedral is an imposing structure. The city derives its name
from the fact that the river on which it stands enters the St. Lawrence
by three mouths. It was founded in 1618, and played an important
part in the early history of Canada. The smelting of iron was begun
at Three Rivers as early as 1737. The city is rendered the more in
teresting by the masses of legend and romantic tradition that cluster
about it, offering a field which has hardly been touched save by the pen
of the French-Canadian author, Benjamin Suite. It will well repay an
extended visit. Steamers ply from the city wharves to the adjacent
river villages. Within easy reach are many large mountain brooks,
swarming with trout ; and from the city one may conveniently visit the
splendid fishing waters of the upper St. Maurice. A stage-ride of 26
miles from Three Rivers takes one to the famous mineral springs of
Si!. Leon. On the south shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite Three
Rivers, is the village of Doucet's Landing, the terminus of the Artha-
baska and Three Rivers branch of the G. T. Ry., which connects the city
with the Eastern Townships.
A short distance below Three Rivers we pass the village of Batiscan,

78 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
at the mouth of the Batiscan River. River and village are named after
an Indian chief famous in the early history of Canada. The next
village commemorates the apparently omnipresent Ste. Anne — in this
case called Ste. Anne de la Perade. Beyond St. Anne's lies the ancient
settlement of Poinie-aux-Trembles, where, during the final siege of
Quebec in 1759, took place several encounters between French and
English. The following incident is taken from the entertaining pages
of Mr. J. M. Le Moine :
" A party of 1,200 of Fraser's Highlanders and Grenadiers," says
Panet, " were dispatched to Pointe-aux-Trembles, commanded by Gen
eral Wolfe in person, under the guidance of Major Robert Stobo, on
July 21, 1759, and captured three men and a bevy of Quebec French
ladies, who had sought a refuge there during the bombardment. The
English were fired on by about 40 Indians, but succeeded, about half-
past three in the morning, having surrounded the houses round the
church, in capturing about thirteen ladies. Among the fair captives
were Mesdames Duchesnay, De Charny, with her mother and her sister,
and Mdlle. Couillard. The Joly, Malhiot, and Magnan families formed
part of them. They were treated with every kind of respect. Young
General Wolfe headed the detachment under the guidance of Major
Robert Stobo, who, it seems, made several pretty speeches to the ladies
— ' qui a fait Men des compliments.'
" What was worse," remarks Panet, " was that while the British
soldiery did them no harm, the Indians (allies of the French) pillaged
the houses and property of nearly all these unfortunate refugees.
(Panet's Journal du Siege, p. 13.) Each captive for the day bore the
name of her captor.
" It sounds odd that it should have seemed necessary to detail 1,200
Highlanders and British Grenadiers, etc., to capture thirteen French
ladies ! One likes to recall this romantic incident in the career of Miss
Lowther's admirer, James Wolfe — the chivalrous gallantry of the
young soldier toward beauty in distress. Next day the fair Quebecers
were brought home in boats and landed at Ance des Meres, at 3 P. M.,
orders having been sent by the General to the English fleet to stop fir
ing on the city until 9 r. m., so as to afford the captives time, after
their release, to retire to a place of safety. Who were on that July 21,
1759, Madame Wolfe, Madame Stobo, Madame Frazer ? What a lark
for the sons of Mars to write about in their next home letters ! At
Pointe-a-x-Trembles occurred, during the spring of 1760, the engage
ment between the French frigates and an overwhelming force of the
British fleet, brave Captain de Vauclain, of the Atalante, winning, by
his spirited though unsuccessful defense, the respect of worthy foes."
Next we pass Jacques-Cartier River, famous for its salmon-fishing
and well stocked with trout. Here the shores of the St. Lawrence
begin to grow more bold and picturesque. Lower down we pass, in

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 79
the clear morning light, the old village of St. Augusiin, whose first
church, built in 1690, enjoyed, according to tradition, a very peculiar
distinction. It is told that the devil, in the guise of a gigantic black
horse of monstrous strength, hauled the huge stones of the founda
tion walls. About 12 miles from Quebec is the mouth of the Chau
diere River, flowing in from the south. This river runs a wild course
of about 100 miles, and as it nears the St. Lawrence plunges down a
magnificent fall of nearly 100 ft. The cataract is famous for its
picturesque grandeur. It was by way of the valley of the Chaudiere
that Benedict Arnold led his troops on that heroic but disastrous ex
pedition of his from New England to Quebec. The storied heights
which loom on either hand as we approach Quebec will be described
in subsequent paragraphs. Steaming between the cliffs of Point Levis
and the guns of that aerial citadel which guards the gate of Canada, we
round up to the wharves of Quebec.
To Quebec by the South Shore.
In going from Montreal to Quebec by the Grand Trunk, the trav
eler is carried far south of the St. Lawrence, and through the romantic
and richly storied landscapes already described in connection with the
Richelieu River. It is a lovely journey, and should be taken on the
day express. The crossing of the Victoria Bridge is like the passage
of a long tunnel, and occupies between four and five minutes. From
Montreal to Richmond, where the Quebec Branch diverges from the
main line running through to Portland, Me., the way is thick with
thriving towns, and fruitful in historic memoiics. The busy little
French city of St. Hyacinlhe, on the Yamaska River, has some points
of interest for the tourist, and a population of about 6,000. It has a
college, two cathedrals, and a large manufacturing interest in leather,
woolens, and machinery. St. Hilaire, about 12 miles west of St.
Hyacinthe, has excellent black-bass and pike fishing in June, July,
and August. At Richmond, important as a junction town, and for the
copper-mines in its vicinity, there is a village population of between
1,000 and 2,000. A few miles beyond Richmond is the growing village
of Danville, with several factories. Arthabaska village is of impor
tance chiefly as the starting-point of the branch line to Doucefs Land
ing, already referred to. Near Arthabaska we cross the river Nicolet,
named for Champlain's brave interpreter, Jean Niclot the peacemaker

80 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
who dwelt for nine years among the wizard Nipissings. A little beyond
Arthabaska lies the village of Stanfold. At Lyster, where we cross the
Becancour River, there is a considerable lumbering business. Twenty
miles from Levis is a station with the musical name of St.. Agapit de
Beaurivage. At Chaudiere we cross the wild river of the same name,
already referred to. Nine miles farther on we stop at the station of
Point Levis, whence a ferry carries us over to Quebec.
To Quebec by the North Shore.
The trains of the C. P. R. R. run between Quebec and Montreal
along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, in a little over six hours.
This is a rapid and luxurious trip, for the line is unrivaled in man
agement and equipment ; but in the way of landscape it offers little
variety. Leaving Dalhousie Square Station we pass the stations of
Hochelaga, Mile End, and Sault aux Recollefs, and reach St. Martin's
Junction, whence the main line of the C. P. R. R. swerves off for its
long journey across the continent. Passing the junction, we cross the
north branch of the Ottawa River at Terrebonne, whose limestone
quarries have built Montreal. From Joliette Junction there are branch
lines to a number of small towns — such as Joliette, St. Felix de Valois,
and St. Gabriel de Brandon. From Lanoraie and Berthier Junctions
run short branch lines to villages of the same names on the river-shore.
Berthier has a population of 2,500, In the neighborhood of Louisville
are the St. Leon Springs, already referred to. All these stations are in
a level, highly cultivated plain, cut up into the long, narrow fields that
characterize the older parts of Quebec. This curious arrangement
arises from the French custom of dividing estates equally among the
owner's heirs, and giving each portion of the subdivided farms a like
river-frontage. Leaving Louisville the train runs through i'amachiche
and Point du Lac, and reaches the city of Three Rivers.
The St. Maurice River, third in rank of the tributaries of the St.
Lawrence, rises in a maze of lakes and streams 220 miles to the north.
In the same wild region rise the Ottawa and the Saguenay. It is a
region visited only by a few Indians and trappers, Hudson Bay traders,
and the lumbermen whose axes ring on the banks of every stream.
Civilization has as yet but touched the skirts of this wilderness. From
the banks of the St. Lawrence it has climbed the river about 100
miles, and ends at the roaring falls of the Tuque. Between this point

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 81
and the " Piles," 60 miles farther down, the St. Maurice runs quietly,
and is traversed by a small steamer. The lower St. Maurice is a suc
cession of falls and rapids, which are avoided by a railway running
from the "Piles" to Piles' Junction on the C. P. R. R. Below the
"Piles "the land lies in terraces or "benches." Twenty-four miles
above Three Rivers are the famous Shawenegan Falls, remarkable for
their beauty and grandeur even in this country of cataracts. The In
dian name, Shawenegan, signifies " needlework," and was doubtless
suggested by the beautiful play of colors on the foaming surface. Just
above the falls the river is split by a rocky island. The right branch
descends with a direct plunge. The left, roaring around the obstacle,
meets the other almost at right angles. Here the reunited torrent finds
its way blocked by a rugged point. Hurled back upon itself, the river
falls away to one side, and sweeps down a rocky trough into the swirl
ing bosom of a spacious basin. Into this same basin winds peacefully,
between quiet glades of elms and river meadows, the Shawenegan
River. If one ascends this stream a little way, which may be done very
delightfully in a canoe, he will be rewarded by a sight of one of the
loveliest and most romantic of cascades, the Little Shawenegan Falls.
Guides to the fishing and shooting of the St Maurice may be obtained
at Three Rivers and other places. For information as to leased waters,
for permits, etc., one should write in advance to Joseph Reynar, Esq.,
Government Superintendent of the St. Maurice District.
Two miles beyond Three Rivers our train passes Piles Junction,
already referred to. Then come Champlain, Batiscan, LachevroiUre,
and other villages whose names savor of old France. Portneuf is a
busy little town, devoted to the manufacture of shoes and wood-pulp.
Seven miles from Quebec is Lorette, a settlement of Christianized Huron
Indians, founded about two centuries and a half ago. Beyond Lorette
we pass the junction of the Lake St. John R. R., the gateway to that
sportsman's paradise which lies about the head-waters of the Sague
nay. Four miles farther, and our train stops under the citadel of
Quebec. City of Quebec.
Hotels, etc. — The Florence ($2.50 to $4 per day), in St. John
St. ; the St. Louis Hotel ($2.50 to $5 per day), in St. Louis St., near
Dufferin Terrace ; the Russell House, cor. Ann and Garden Sts. ; Henchey's
Hotel, in St. Ann St. ; Mountain Hill House ($1.50 per day), on Mount
ain St. ; and Blanchard' s, in the Lower Town.

82 QUEBEC.
Modes of Conveyance. — Horse-cars (fare 5c.) traverse the streets
along the river in the Lower Town and extend to the suburbs. A
second line runs along St. John St. in the Upper Town. Carriages or
caliches may be hired at the livery-stables, and on the cab-stands near
the hotels and markets. The caliche, » two-wheeled one-horse appa
ratus, is the usual vehicle, and costs about 75c. an hour. Ferries con
nect the city with South Quebec, New Liverpool, and Point Levi, on
the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, and run three times a day to the
Isle .of Orleans. An elevator runs from Champlain St. to Dufferin
Terrace in the summer only.
Clubs. — Garrison, Union, Castanet, Club de Marchands, Club Mont
morency, Le Carillon, Quebec Assemblies, Quebec High-School Museum
Restaurants. — Chien d'Or, Mercantile, Quebec Club, Royal Mail,
St. Peter. Theatre. — Academy of Music.
Population of Quebec, 85,000. QUEBEC, 1757.
(From the French of Philippe de Gaspe, author of The Canadians
of Old. Translated by Charles G. D. Roberts, and published by D,
Appleton & Co.) An eagle city on her heights austere,
Taker of tribute from the chainless flood,
She watches wave above her in the clear
The whiteness of her banner purged with blood.
Near her grim citadel .the blinding sheen
Of her cathedral spire triumphant soars,
Rocked by the Angelus, whose peal serene
Beats over Beaupre and the Levis shores.
Tossed in his light craft on the dancing wave,
A etranger where he once victorious trod,
The passing Iroquois, fierce-eyed and grave,
Frowns on the flag of Prance, the cross oi God.
Among the cities of the New World the grandest for situation, the
most romantic in associations, the most distinctive and picturesque in
details, is the sentinel city that keeps the gates of the St. Lawrence.
Nothing could be more impressive than the view of Quebec from a
little distance down the river, unless it be the matchless panorama to
be seen from the parapets of Dufferin Terrace, within the city. Lookiag
up toward Quebec, or looking down from Quebec, it is hard to say
which is the more impressive view. When one is ascending the St.
Lawrence he sees on his right the milk-white cataract of Montmorency,
descending as it were out of heaven over the dark face of the mount-

v^

QUEBEC. 83
ains that skirt the north shore of the St. Lawrence. On the left the
white villages of Isle d' Orleans, with their far-glittering gilded spires,
nestle in the deep green of luxuriant groves. In front rises the en
chanting city, tier upon tier of steep- roofed houses and quaint, precipi
tous streets, breadths of gray cliff-front, and again the roofs and towers,
and far up, on the summit of the height, the grim eyrie of the ancient
citadel. Across the face of the peopled steep run irregularly the mass
ive lines of the city walls, and on a natural terrace midway between the
water-front and the citadel frown the guns of the Grand Battery. The
flourishing suburb of St. Roch sweeps off to the right from the lower
slopes of the cape, and dwindles into the villages of Charlesbourg and
Lorette. A little lower down the quiet current of the St. Charles winds
in silver curves through the meadows of Beauport. On the high shores
beyond the city are .the dark fir-groves of Sillery, " with its memories of
missions and massacres." The water-front of the city is thronged with
ships whose masts and funnels obscure the warehouses. Ships are
anchored thickly in mid-channel, and between them dodge the puffing-
tugs and the high two-decker ferries making their hasty way to the lofty
and huddling town of Point Livis, whose heights resound all day to
the shrieks of locomotives. The picture is one whose sublime lines
and masses are brought out to the full by the fresh coloring that plays
over it. Under the vivid and flawless blue come out sharply the pale
gray of the citadel, the duller gray of the cliff-face streaked with rust-
color and splashed with light green, the black guns bristling on the ram
parts and batteries, the brown streets, roofs of shining tin, and gilded
steeples, with here and there a billow of thick foliage, the blue-green
flood of the St. Lawrence, the white and emerald of the tributary
farms and villages, and the somber purple setting of the remote sur
rounding hills. A famous American bishop declares, " Only Heidel
berg in Germany, Stirling and Edinburgh in Scotland, and Ehrenbreit-
stein on the Rhine, can contend with Quebec for grandeur of situation
and the noblest beauty." The vast promontory which the city occupies
is called Cape Diamond, from the innumerable quartz crystals which
once glittered over its surface.
THE HISTORY OP QUEBEC.
The site of Quebec, when visited in 1535 by Jacques Cartier, was
occupied by the Indian town of Stadacona, which signifies " The nar
rowing of the river." Cartier was received by the Indians with generous

84 QUEBEC.
hospitality, and by their aid continued his explorations up the river to
Hochelaga. Before starting on his return voyage to France he repaid
their kindness by kidnapping their head chief Donnacona, with several
others of the tribe, to take home as trophies and proofs of his advent
ure. In 1541 Cartier came again with five ships, but found no friendly
welcome. His treachery was not to be forgotten in five years. He
attempted to found a settlement at Cap Rouge, but the hostility of
the Indians lay heavy upon him and the effort was abandoned. A little
later the attempt was repeated by the Sieur de Roberval, nicknamed
by Francis I " The little King of Vimieu." This was in 1549. The
enterprise of De Roberval, which came to a disastrous end after a win
ter of terrible sufferings and strange disease, has been made the sub
ject of a picturesque and brilliant historical drama by the Canadian
poet John Hunter Duvar. With the remnants of his little colony De
Roberval set sail for France, and nothing more was heard of him there
after. It is supposed that the ships went down in a storm off the
coast of Newfoundland.
The real founding of Quebec was in 1608, when Champlain estab
lished a post at the foot of the steep. Stadacona had passed away.
Soon a tiny village stood upon its site. Champlain was a practical
colonizer, and he succeeded where Cartier and Roberval had failed.
In the winter came the scourge of that strange and dreadful disease, the
scurvy, and of his little band of 28 but 8 survived to greet the spring.
In the following year Champlain made an alliance with the tribes of
the Algonquins and Hurons, and committed New France to a hundred
years of war with the Five Nations. For some years Quebec was but
a military and fur-trading post, but Champlain's purpose was to found
an empire, and the foundation of that, he well knew, must be laid in
farming. He brought out one Louis, Hebert, with his son-in-law Couil-
lard, to till the soil of New France. The families of these men struck
deep root into the virgin soil, and now their descendants are to be
found all over the province. Two of the quaintest and most media3val-
looking of the streets of Quebec are Hebert and Couillard Sts., which
are said to run where ran the first furrows plowed in Canada. They
are straighter than those old streets in Boston which follow the devi
ous paths worn by the cows of the Pilgrim Fathers. Had the farmers
come to Quebec in as great numbers as did the Recollets and Jes
uits, and with half the zeal and energy of these latter, New France
would have grown as rapidly as New England. As it was however .

QUEBEC. 85
its growth was comparatively slow, and the policy of the great fur-
trading company which controlled it for a long while checked its devel
opment. In 1629 the infant stronghold was captured by Sir David
Kirke ; but it was restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain-en-
Laye, and Champlain again became its Governor. In 1635 the "Father
of Canada" died, and, strange to say, we know not his exact resting-
place, for the records of Quebec were burned in the great fire of 1640-
It is enough to know that he lies somewhere within the city, and
Quebec is his all-sufficient monument. Quebec may be said to have
been born under the auspices of two strangely incongruous powers
— religion and the fur-trade — and the former, fortunately, got the
best of it in the long run. It moved rich and devoted women to
found such institutions in the new colony as the Hotel Dieu and the
Ursuline Convent. The former was established by the Duchess d'Ai-
guillon, with the help of the Hospital Nuns of Dieppe ; the latter by a
rich and beautiful young widow, Madame de la Peltrie, who devoted
her fortune and her life to the welfare of New France. To this day
Quebec is full of churches, ecclesiastical establishments, and institu
tions of charity. In 1663 the whole population of New France was not
above 2,000, scattered thinly along the river from the Saguenay to
Montreal. Of these Quebec contained 800. Then came better days ;
and Louis XIV, destroying the monopoly of the fur company, took the
colony under his own control. Immigration was energetically pro
moted, and under the management of the wise Intendant, Talon, Quebec
rose into a commercial importance which it took his incompetent and
unscrupulous successors a long while to destroy. After Talon's time
New France was ruled by several excellent governors, chief of whom
was the great Frontenac ; but the business management of the colony
was in the hands of the intendants and abominably conducted. In
October, 1690, came Sir William Phips with an English fleet, and,
anchoring off Isle d'Orleans, demanded the capitulation of the city.
Very short was the answer of the fiery old Governor, Frontenac, and
emphatic was his repulse of the hostile squadron ; but New France was
ever a thorn in the side of the English-speaking colonies along the
Atlantic seaboard, and the citadel on Cape Diamond was a wasp's nest,
by whose stings they were goaded all too frequently. Not unnatural
was their demand for its destruction, and in 1711 the task was again
undertaken, this time by Admiral Sir Hoveden Walker. His fleet,
however, was shattered by a storm in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and for

86 QUEBEC.
these two deliverances the parish church in the Lower Town was dedi
cated to Notre Dame des Vietoires. During the Seven Years' War be
tween France and England, Quebec was finally captured, and the
leopards of England supplanted the lilies of France. This took place
in 1759. The splendid victory of General Wolfe against heavy odds
has been brilliantly narrated by Parkman. On the 26th of June came
a fleet under Admiral Saunders, with transports carrying Wolfe and
the English army. The fleet. anchored off Isle d' Orleans, which at that
time retained the name given it by Cartier, Isle de Bacchus. The
French army, of about 13,000 men, under command of the illus
trious Montcalm, was occupying the Beauport shore. General Monc
ton took possession of the Levis Heights and bombarded the city.
On the 31st of July Wolfe effected a landing near the Montmorency
River and attacked the French lines. He was defeated with severe
loss. Then followed a long and weary delay caused by Wolfe's illness,
and not until September could the attack be renewed. Under cover
of night the English forces stole up river, under the guns of the cita
del. At dawn of September 13th a landing was gained at a place now
called Wolfe's Cove, below Sillery. The heights above appeared inac
cessible, but they were scaled successfully, Wolfe's Highlanders lead
ing the way. A small French guard on the summit was promptly over
come, and by the time-it was clear day the British line of battle was
formed on the Plains of Abraham. Montcalm was outgeneraled. He
was still in camp at Beauport, on the scene of his victory, awaiting
another attack. In hot haste he threw his forces across the St. Charles,
and by 10 o'clock the armies were engaged. The battle was short.
Wolfe fell mortally wounded, on the spot now marked by Wolfe's
monument ; and almost at the same moment the French lines broke,
and Montcalm, who had received his death-wound, was carried by the
fugitives into the city, where he died and was buried in the Ursuline
Convent. The French army drew off to Cap Rouge, and on the 18th
Quebec was surrendered to the English. In October the fleet sailed
for England, and General Murray was left in the city as governor, with
a garrison about 6,000 strong. Now, under the very walls of the citadel,
just back of the Dufferin Terrace, stands a monument in joint commem
oration of the opposing generals who fell on the Plains of Abraham.
" Montialm and Wolfe 1 Wolfe and Montcalm !
Quebec, thy storied citadel
Attest in burning song and psalm
How here thy heroes fell ! "

:%

QUEBEC. 87
In the following spring the besiegers became the besieged. The
French general De Levis, with an army of about 10,000 men, defeated
Murray on the Plains of Abraham ; and the English were shut up be
hind the fortifications till relief came in the shape of an English fleet
on the 15th of May. De Levis withdrew; and soon afterward Canada
became an English colony. In 1775, during the American Revolution,
General Benedict Arnold, with a small army, made his famous march
by the Chaudih-e Valley, scaled the heights at Wolfe's Cove, and laid
siege to the city. Two weeks later General Montgomery arrived. On
the 31st of December the American forces advanced to the assault, but
were repulsed with heavy loss. The brave Montgomery fell before a
barricade on Champlain St. Tho house on St. Louis St. to which his
body was taken is now an Indian curiosity-shop, and one of the points
of interest of the city. Montgomery' was buried at the foot of Citadel
Hill, but the body was afterward removed to New York.
POINTS OP INTEREST.
Quebec is often called the Gibraltar of America. The base of the
citadel is 333 feet above the water. Its fortifications cover about 40
acres. The city is divided into the Upper and Lower Town, which are
connected by an elevator ascending the face of the cliff, and by a steep,
winding street called Cote de la Montagne. The cliff face is in places
insecure, and not long since an immense mass of rock fell away, over
whelming a portion of the street below. Many persons perished in
this catastrophe ; and now, though costly engineering operations have
been undertaken to reinforce the cliff, wayfarers who pass along
Champlain St. do so in fear and trembling. Most of the business is
in the Lower Town, by the water-side. The Upper Town lies within the
city walls and beyond them to the Plains of Abraham, and comprises
also the suburbs of St. Louis and St. John. The walls run west from
the citadel to the heights overhanging the St. Charles; and thence
around the face of the promontory till they rejoin the cliffs of Cape
Diamond near the Governor's garden, a circuit of nearly 3 miles.
Some years ago the old city gates, five in number, were removed, but
three new ones, far more substantial and ornamental, have replaced
them. These are St. Louis Gate and St. John's Gate, and the Kent
Gate in St. Patrick's St.
" The point to which the attention of the stranger in Quebec is
first directed is Dufferin Terrace, which lies along the edge of the cliff,

88 QUEBEC.
towering 200 feet above the river, and overlooking the Lower Town.
Part of it occupies the site of the old Chateau of St. Louis, built by
Champlain in 1620, and destroyed by fire in 1834. Dufferin Terrace,
which was opened to the public in June, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome
and Princess LouiBe, is an unequaled promenade over \ mile long.
The outlook from the Terrace is one of the finest in the world, and is
of itself worth a trip to Quebec. The Esplanade, near the St. Louis
Gate, is another attractive promenade, and the walk along the Ramparts
between the St. Louis Gate and St. John's Gate, affords prospects
rivaled by few in America. The view from the Grand Battery, near
the Laval University, is considered by many to be finer even than that
from Dufferin Terrace ; and that from the vast balcony of the Univer
sity building is still more impressive. The Place d'Armes, or Parade-
ground, is a pretty little park adorned with a fine fountain, lying be
tween Dufferin Terrace and the Anglican Cathedral, which is a plain,
gray-stone edifice surmounted by a tall spire, standing in St. Ann St.
on the site to which tradition points as the spot where Champlain
erected his first tent. Adjoining the cathedral is the rectory, and the
pretty little Chapel of A 11 Saints. Des Carrieres St., running south
from the Place d'Armes, leads to the Governor's Garden, containing
an obelisk 65 feet high, to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. Des
Carrieres St. also leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, a powerful
fortification, covering 40 acres of ground, on the summit of Cape Dia
mond." *
The old Market Square, on which has recently been erected a beau
tiful bronze fountain, is in the center of the Upper Town, surrounded
by more or less striking buildings. On the E. side is the Basilica of
Quebec (formerly the Cathedral), a spacious cut-stone building, 216 ft.
long and 180 ft. wide, and capable of seating 4,000 persons. The
exterior of the edifice is very plain, but the interior is richly decorated,
and contains" several original paintings of great value by Vandyke,
Caracci, Halle, and others. Adjoining the Basilica on the N. are the
quaint buildings of the Seminary of Quebec, founded in 1663
by M. de Laval, first Bishop of Quebec. The Seminary Chapel was
destroyed by fire in 1887, but it is now being rebuilt. All the rare
and priceless works of art were burned. The Laval University,
founded in 1852, occupies three very imposing buildings. They are

* Appletons' General Guide to U. S. A. and Canada.

QUEBEC. 89
of cut stone, 576 ft. long (the main building being 286 ft.), five stories
high, and costing $240,000. The chemical laboratory is spacious, fire
proof, and provided with complete apparatus ; the geological, miner-
alogical, and botanical collections are very valuable ; the museum of
zoology contains upward of 1,300 different birds and 7,000 insects;
and the museum of the medical department is especially complete. The
Library numbers nearly 95,000 volumes, and the Picture Gallery (always
open to the public) is one of the richest in Canada, and contains many
important works of art. On the W. side of Market Square is the site
of the old Jesuits' College buildings. Morrin College occupies the old
stone prison at the cor. of St. Ann and Stanislas Sts. In this building
are the library (14,500 volumes) and museum of the Quebec Literary
and Historical Society, with its rich collection of MSS. relating to the
early history of the country. The High School on the Cape has 200
students, an excellent library, and a small natural history collection.
In Donnaconna St., off Garden, is the Ursuline Convent, a series
of buildings surrounded by beautiful grounds. It was founded in 1639,
and now has 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to
painting, needlework, etc. The parlor and chapel are open to visitors,
and in the latter are rare carvings on ivory and some fine paintings by
Vandyke, Champagne, and others. The remains of the Marquis de Mont
calm are buried here in an excavation made by the bursting of a shell
within the precincts of the convent. His skull is preserved in the par
lor of the chaplain. The Grey Nunnery is a spacious building on the
glacis W. of the ramparts, and contains about 75 Sisters. The Chapel
adjoining the nunnery is a lofty and ornate Gothic edifice, with a rich
interior. Near by (in St. John St. near St. Clair) the new Roman Catho
lic church of St. John replaces the large structure destroyed by fire a
few years ago. The H6tel Dien, with its convent and hospital, stands
on Palace St., near the rampart, and in 1875 comprised 45 Sisters of the
Sacred Blood of Dieppe, who minister gratuitously to 10,000 patients
yearly. In the Convent Chapel are some valuable paintings. The
Black Nunnery is in the suburbs of St. Roch's. Application to the
Lady Superiors will usually secure admittance to the nunneries.
The Post- Office is a handsome stone edifice at the corner of Buade
and Du Fort Sts. On its face is the historic effigy of " the Golden Dog,"
Le Chien d' Or, with its menacing inscription — " Je suis un chien qui
ronge l'os," etc. (I am a dog that gnaws the bone), commemorating a
bitter feud between the infamous Bigot and the merchant Philibert

90 QUEBEC.
and the long-delayed vengeance of the latter. The tale has been ampli
fied in Mr. Eirby's romance of " Le Chien d'Or." Immediately opposite
is the Chien d' Or Restaurant, famous for the circumstance that the nieee
of its first proprietor captivated the fancy of Nelson, then captain of
the Albemarle, whose attempted elopement with the " maid of the
inn" was frustrated by a friendly Quebec merchant. The incident
is, perhaps, the foundation of that rough sailor-song called " Shan-
nodor." Near by is the Cardinal's Palace, a stately and handsome
structure. Other noteworthy buildings in the Upper Town are the
City Hall, the Quebec Academy of Music, the Masonic Hall, and the
Garrison Clab, in St. Louis St. On Grande Allee are situated the
Skating-Rink, the Parliament and Departmental Buildings, which were
begun in 1878, and the Armory and Exhibition Building, a beautiful
structure. The new Court-House, finished in 1888, is on the corner of
St. Louis St. and Place d'Armes. Among noteworthy churches are the
Methodist Church in St. Stanislas St., a fine specimen of the flamboy
ant Gothic style ; St. Matthew's (Episcopal), in St. John St. ; St. An
drew's (Presbyterian), at the intersection of St. Ann and St. Stanislas
Sts., a spacious stone structure in the Gothic style ; Chalmers (Pres
byterian), in St. Ursule St. ; St. Patrick's (Roman Catholic), in McMa-
hon St., and St. Sauveur and St. Roch's, in the suburbs. The fine
and spacious Y. M. C. A. Hall is in St. John St., just without St. John's
Gate. There are a good library, lecture-room, and reading-rooms, etc.,
opposite to which is the Montcalm Market Square and Hall7 The Insti
tut Canadien is in Fabrique St., and in Ann St. is situated the Wom
an's Christian Association.
Just N. of Dufferin Terrace is the head of Mountain Hill St., which
descends to the Lower Town. To the right is a pieturesque stairway,
called the Champlain Steps, or Cole de la Monlagne, which leads
down to the church of Notre-Dame des Vietoires, erected in 1690 on
the site of Champlain's residence. S. of the church is the Champlain
Market, a spacious structure on the river-bank, near the landing of the
river steamers. St. Peter St., running N. between the cliff and the
river, is the main business thoroughfare of this quarter, and contains
the great commercial establishments, banking-houses, wholesale stores,
etc. St. Paul St. stretches W. on the narrow strand between the cliff
and the St. Charles, amid breweries and manufactories, till it meets,
near the mouth of the St. Charles, St. Joseph St., the main artery of
the large suburb of St. Roch's. On the banks of the St. Charles are the

QUEBEC. 91
principal ship-yards, once so thriving ; and the numerous coves of the
St. Lawrence, from Champlain St. to Cap Rouge, are filled with acres
of vast lumber -rafts. On the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence are
the populous towns of South Quebec, New Liverpool, and Point Levi,
which present a scene of activity scarcely surpassed by the city itself.
The Custom-House is reached from St. Peter St. by Leadenhall St., and
occupies the very apex of the point made by the confluence of the St.
Lawrence and the St. Charles Rivers. It is an imposing Doric edifice,
with a dome, and a facade of noble columns, approached by a long flight
of steps. The Marine and Emigrants' Hospital, built on the model of
the Temple of the Muses, on the banks of the Uissus, is near the St.
Charles River, and half a mile farther up the river is the General Hos
pital. This institution was founded in 1693, and is under the charge
of the nuns of St. Augustine. Overlooking St. Roch's suburbs is the
Jeffery Hale Hospital. The Finlay Asylum is on St. Foye road.
The suburbs of St. Louis and St. John stretch S. and W. along the
plateau of the Upper Town, and are constantly encroaching on the his
toric Plains of Abraham. They contain many handsome private resi
dences and several large conventual establishments and churches. The
best approach to the Plains of Abraham is by Grande Allee, which com
mences at the St. Louis Gate and the Martello Towers, four circular stone
structures erected in 1807-'12 to defend the approaches to the city.
On the spot where Wolfe fell in the memorable battle of September 13,
1759, stands Wolfe's Monument, a modest column appropriately in
scribed. A short distance to the left is the path by which his army
scaled the cliffs on the night before the battle ; it is somewhat shorn
of its rugged character, but is still precipitous and forbidding. On the
Plains, near the Ste. Foye road, stands the monument commemorating
the victory won by the Chevalier de Levis over General Murray in
1760. It is a handsome iron column, surmounted by a bronze statue
of Bellona (presented by Prince Napoleon), and was erected in 1 854.
About 3 miles out on the St. Louis road are Mount Herman Cemetery,
32 acres in extent, beautifully laid out on irregular ground, sloping
down to the precipices which overhang the St. Lawrence, and St. Pat
rick's (R. C.) Cemetery.
In its surroundings Quebec is more fortunate than any city in Can
ada. In whatever direction one turns, some point of interest will
appear. The great island below the city, already mentioned as Isle
d'Orleans, is rich with history and romance, and is a favorite sum-

92 QUEBEC.
mer resort for the citizens of Quebec. It was called Isle de Bacchus by
Cartier, and Minego by the Indians. By. the superstitious habitants it
is still called Isle des Sorcieres, and is piously believed to be the favored
resort of every kind of hobgoblin. This superstition, however, has not
hindered the fruitful island from becoming the seat of many flourishing
villages, such as St. Pierre, St. Jean, St. Laurent, St. Fereol, St. Francois.
The island is reached by a ferry-steamer from Quebec.
The Falls of Montmorency.
From Quebec to the Falls of Montmorency, 9 miles below, is
a delightful drive over the Beauport meadows and through an almost
continuous street of cottages and farm-houses. The tourist who prefers
to make the trip more speedily and less expensively may go by the
Quebec, Montmorency and Charlevoi R. R., which runs 20 miles down
the St. Lawrence shore to the famous shrine at St. Anne, whither
the pilgrims flock by thousands every season. Fare to Montmorency,
20c. ; return, 30c. To St. Anne, 60c. ; return, 85c. " The Montmorency
Falls," says Mr. Le Moine, in his charming Tourist's Note-Book, "are
still known to old French peasants as La Vache (the Cow) on account
of the resemblance of their foaming waters to milk, though others have
attributed the name to the noise, like the bellowing of a cow, which is
made by the roaring torrent during the prevalence of certain winds.
They present, when swollen by spring floods or by autumnal rains, a
most imposing spectacle. The volume of water, though much less than
that of Niagara, falls from a much greater height — viz., 275 ft. Beau-
port's wondrous cataract may be seen under various attractive aspects.
. I also remember, on a bright, starry night amid winter, contem
plating in dreamy-rapt silence a novel spectacle, seldom vouchsafed to
Quebecers. The snowy cone at the foot of the cataract had been
scooped out by an enterprising city restaurateur, to represent a vast,
glittering palace, provided with icy couches, seats, etc. — a cold, bright
but fitting throne for the Frost King, illumined by Chinese lamps,
reminding one of Cowper's glowing description of Imperial Catharine's
Russian ice-palace of 1787 : 1 a scene
01 evanescent glory, once a stream,
And soon to glide into a stream again.' "
The Falls should *be viewed both from above and from below. To
see them well from above one must cross the Montmorency Bridge, trav-

QUEBEC. 93
erse a field, and descend an interminable stairway to a platform which
thrusts itself out over the very face of the cataract. The view from
this point is most effective. To see the Falls from below one must pass
through a property formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, and descend
the precipitous path called Zigzag Hill. From the foot of the hill we
move along the beach till suddenly we find ourselves in the midst of
the spray and tumult of the Fall, and a gorgeous rainbow, so close that
we can almost touch it, is flashing in our eyes. The volume of water
flowing away from the foot of the Fall seems much less than that of
the river before it has taken the plunge. There is a belief current in
the neighborhood to the effect that most of the river passes by an
underground channel beneath the bed of the St. Lawrence, and rises
near the foot of Isle d'Orleans. At this point there is a bit of angry
water known as Le Taureau, which is considered very dangerous, and
is popularly supposed to be the Montmorency escaping from its sub
terranean prison. On the banks of the Montmorency, above the crest
of the Fall, stand the remnants of a suspension bridge. About forty
years ago this structure fell into the abyss, carrying with it an unfortu
nate habitant and his family who were driving over it at the time. The
tourist must not fail to visit, while at Montmorency, the famous Natural
Steps, about a mile and a half above the bridge, where the river rushes
madly over a scries of cascades, each three or four yards in depth. On
each side rises a perpendicular wall of somber cliff whose summits are
fringed with pine-trees. Here and there beside the ledges are green
and ferny nooks, the delight of retiring picnickers. Between the
" Steps " are black and swirling pools whence one may coax a few fine
mountain trout. The peculiar formation extends for over an eighth of
a mile ; and every here and there some chute more tumultuous than its
fellows sends up a cloud of spray. Hard by is the Fairy River, or
L'Eau Tenue, whose small stream buries itself in the earth to reappear
a little farther down. The beach at the foot of Montmorency Falls is
' the scene of Wolfe's disastrous attack on July 31, 1759. In attempting
to scale these perpendicular heights, which were defended by the most
expert of French-Canadian marksmen, Wolfe lost no less than 500 men
in killed and wounded. Places of Interest near the City.
Four miles beyond Montmorency is the village of I'Ange Gardien,
with some nice trout streams in the neighborhood, and good snipe and

94 QUEBEC.
partridge shooting in the autumn months. Yet 5 miles farther, and
we come to the lovely plum and apple orchards of Chdteau Richer.
Here, also, are good snipe-grounds, and there is excellent trout-fishing
above and below the romantic falls of Sault d la Puce.
The raison d'etre of the Quebec, Montmorency and Charlevoi R. R.
is the village of St. Anne de Beaupre, otherwise known as La bonne
Ste. Anne. About eighteen years ago the parish church of St. Anne
was raised by the Pope to a shrine of the first order. Of late years
the shrine has been brought into great prominence on account of the
many miraculous cures which are said to have been wrought there by
the relics of the saint. The railroad is kept busy by the thousands of
devout pilgrims and more or less pious tourists who flock to visit a
shrine of such renown. Of the pilgrims, however, great numbers
come afoot, from motives either of penitence or economy ; and they
come in all stages, from robust and grateful health to the extreme of
piteous and supplicating decrepitude. The church is a repository for
innumerable crutches which have been left there by the maimed and
the halt, who, having experienced the healing influence of the sainted
relics, had no more need of a staff to support their steps. Even the
blind, it is said, return from the shrine of St. Anne with seeing eyes.
The great day for pilgrimages, and the most interesting time for the
tourist to visit the village, is on the feast-day of St. Anne, which is the
26 th of July. The curative powers of the shrine are to be experienced
by kissing the relic of the saint, provided the act of devotion is done
with faith. In the church is a really fine painting by Le Brun, repre
senting St. Anne and the Virgin. This picture was presented to the
church, in 1666, by the Marquis de Tracy. Less than 3 miles from the
village are the wildly beautiful F'alls of St. Anne, made up of a series
of seven plunges. Trout and salmon are fairly abundant above and
below the falls.
Leaving Quebec by the Dorchester Bridge and turning to the left
we come to the estate of Ringfie/d, lying near the spot where Jacques
Cartier, with his three ships, La Grande Hermine, La Petite Hermine,
and L'Emerillon, passed the winter of 1535-'36, and where still may
be seen the remains of mounds and earthworks thrown up by the dar
ing little company. About 4 miles farther out, along the same road,
lies the beautiful village of Charlesbourg. Eastward of Charlesbourg
stand the ruins of a famous, or notorious, chateau of the old French
type, variously known as Beaumanoir, Chdteau Bigot, or the Hermitage.

QUEBEC. 95
The romance of this historic structure has been reproduced for us by
such writers as M. Amedee Papineau; M. Marmettc, in his story of
L'Intendant Bigot ; and Mr. Kiiby, in Le Chien d'Or. It is given briefly
as follows in Holliwell's Guide to the City of Quebec :
" At the foot of La Montague des Ormes are the ruins of Chateau
Bigot, ruins which can now but faintly give an idea of -what the origi
nal building was, of its grandeur, of its extent, of its secret passages,
or its form. Two gables and a center wall, or rather the remnants of
them, are visible, and from the fact of there being a sort of clearance,
now partly overgrown, we may presume that there was a garden.
Ensconced in the midst of a forest on one of the slopes of the Lawren-
tides are these relics of the past, and one can not but be impressed with
deep melancholy as his eyes rest upon this deserted spot and his fancy
repeoples the shattered halls and chambers with the giddy and guilty
throngs which once crowded them. History has given some few indis
tinct data, and imagination has done the rest for this story of the past.
" The Intendant Bigot, whose profligacy and extravagance were un
limited, and whose rapacity supplied his requirements, constructed this
chateau in the wilds of the mountains ; and hither, with companions as
graceless as himself, he was wont to adjourn in every excess of dissi
pation. The intendant was a man fond of field sports, and the chateau
was the headquarters of his hunting expeditions. It is said that on
one of these he lost his way, and met a young Algonquin squaw of
singular beauty, who led him to the chateau, and, being induced to
enter its walls, its strong doors were closed against her egress, and she
remained there a prisoner either to love or to fate. But the intendant
was a man of mark in the colony, a man to satisfy the longings of any
ambitious girl who might wish for power, and such a one there was in
the city of Quebec who was determined to have the intendant as her
lord, that she, as his wife, might rule in New France and punish those
who had slighted her. Such a one, it is said by Mr. Kirby, in his his
torical romance, The Golden Dog, was Angelique des Moloises ; and
she had heard of the Indian maid at Beaumanoir. Murder is a trifle
to such natures as hers, wholly absorbed by ambition ; and one night
a piercing cry was heard echoing through the halls and corridors of
Beaumanoir, and Caroline, the unhappy Algonquin, was found stabbed
dead. Not long since was to be seen her grave-stone in a vault of
Beaumanoir, with but the letter C. engraved thereon. It is said that
the unhappy Caroline was not of full Indian race, but that her father,
by marriage, was an officer of high rank in the army of France. Such
is the story, not the first nor the last, connected with this place, which
has been replete with guilt and caused much sorrow."
Quebec to Lake St. John.
There are two grand side trips to be made from Quebec — that by
the Ontario and Richelieu Navigation Co. to Chicoutimi, at the head

96 QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN.
of navigation on the Saguenay, and that by the Quebec and Lake St.
John Railway to the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the Lake
St. John region. Lake St. John is the source of the Saguenay, but
between the lake and Chicoutimi the way is barred by falls and fierce
rapids. It is proposed to extend the railway eastward from the lake
to Chicoutimi, which will make possible one of the most delightful
round trips on the continent. Meanwhile, however, this essential link
is wanting, and the traveler must make two trips of it.
The distance from Quebec to Roberval, the chief town on Lake St.
John, is 190 miles. The fare is $5.70 ; return, $7.50. The express
runs through by day, which gives the tourist an opportunity to see the
landscape. The journey, and the conclusion of the journey, have been
thus described in a small book entitled Where the Trout hide, by Kit
Clarke :
" A vast country, crowned with a pristine forest, dotted with
countless lovely lakes and rivers where the furred, the feathered, and
the finny nations hold high carnival. It is a land of trackless tangled
woods, of myriads of dainty lakes, and he who loves the stately soli
tude of nature or the music of rippling crystal waters, will find here an
absolute Utopia of delight.
" This glorious wilderness, strange as it may appear, has been rupt
ured by a railroad. For 200 miles directly N. it sends' its snorting
iron messenger back and forth, and the majestic moose, the pompous
caribou, and the ruminant cervus stand appalled at the hideous shriek
of the brazen fiend.
" But they don't stand long — at least, not to any alarming ex
tent. " The path of the railway winds its tortuous labyrinth from begin
ning to end through a magnificent unbroken forest — an endless, wild,
romantic, fantastic spectacle. For more than a hundred miles its path
is carved between majestic trees, with no semblance of a dwelling, nor
even a hunter's cabin to break the monotony of its thrilling isolation.
For 40 miles it finds its crooked way along the shores of the Batiscan
River, whose turbulent waters sweep over immense bowlders, and dash
with unbridled fierceness between towering wooded mountains, while
no indication of human life is visible along its entire intrepid course.
" It is a journey to thrill the very soul of a man whose days have
been hemmed by the busy hum of the noisy city, and a breath of the
perfect breeze that sweeps in unencumbered freedom through the val
ley, laden with the odors of balsam, is health-giving and bracing be
yond measure and price.
What a beautiful view ! ' exclaimed an occupant of the ear.
" ' Give us two for that euchre first,' was the reply.
" ' In the early evening we reach the journey's end, and, after sup
per, stroll upon the bluff and gaze enraptured upon a magnificent

QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. 97
sheet of clear, white water. As far as the eye can reach it rests like a
mirror, as quiet and calm as if never a breeze had rimpled its sleeping
surface. "What a delusion! No more insolent inland sea can be found
upon the continent; none more roaring, saucy, and turbulent, none
more audacious and tumultuous than this impudent sheet of water,
now so bland, docile, and polished. Let but a few careering winds
fondle its surface, and the very essence of stormy savageness holds
ferocious carousal. This is Lake St. John, tho source of the marvel
ous Saguenay, and the home — the only home — of the peerless winin-
nish, the grandest game-fish, the most prodigious warrior that plows
fresh water."
About 10 miles from Quebec, close to the line of this railway, is the
lovely village of Indian Lorette, where dwells a remnant of the Huron
tribe. These Indians are civilized and self-respecting, and their vil
lage will well repay a visit. The station for Lorette is known as Indian
Lorette. Lorette occupies a breezy height 450 ft. above tide, and from
this point of vantage we get an unrivaled view of Quebec, Levis, Isle
d'Orleans, and the valley of the St. Charles. Beside the village thunders
the picturesque cataract known as the Falls of Lorette. Sixteen miles
from Quebec we cross the lovely Jacques-Cartier River, already re
ferred to as famous for its trout and salmon pools. In the valley of
this river is the village of Valcartier, which was chiefly settled by re
tired English officers and soldiers. In the village cemetery, deep in
the heart of the Laurentiau Hills, lie no fewer than nineteen of the
veterans of Waterloo.
A few miles farther and we reach Lake St. Joseph, a fair water
much frequented by Quebecers in the summer-time. The lake is 22
miles long by 8 miles wide, and the mountains that encircle it, clothed
richly in birch and maple, beech and ash, come down to the water's
edge. Hither and thither over its bosom, for the delight of the sum
mer traveler, plies the steamer Ida. The waters of the lake, of a won
derful transparency and depth, abound in black bass, trout, and the
voracious "togue " — a species of thick-set lake-trout sometimes reach
ing 30 pounds in weight, and to be captured by trolling. There are
good summer hotels on Lake St. Joseph. Five miles beyond, the rail
way touches the shores of Lake Sargeant, once famous for its black
bass, but at present spoiled by over-fishing. At St. Raymond we cross
the river St. Anne, whose valley widens here to receive the charming
village. St. Raymond is the center of a great fishing and shooting
district, and may profitably delay for a time the tourist whose passion
7

98 QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN.
is for angling. The village is built on three plateaus, and contains the
workshops of the railway company. A little below the village the
river is joined by its north branch, which is known, on account of its
severe and colossal scenery, as the Little Saguenay. About 68 miles
from Quebec the railw ay enters the valley of the Batiscan, whose course
it follows for a distance of 30 miles. Here the scenery is surpass
ingly fine, especially at the points where the river is joined by the
Miguick, and a little farther on by the Jeannotte. It is impossible
to enumerate all tlie rivers and lakes which offer inducements to
the sportsman, but those mentioned will be found sufficient for most
travelers. In the same neighborhood is a chain of well-stocked trout lakes,
leased by the Laurentides Fish and Game Club. This is a region
of fish and game clubs, many of which have commodious club-houses
on their respective waters. Among them may be mentioned the Tou-
rilli, Little Saguenay, Lac au Lard, Stadacona, Fin and Feather, Para
dise, Meiabetchouan, Jacques Cartier, and Lake Quaquakamaksis. In
formation as to these leased waters and the possibility of obtaining
fishing privileges thereon may be obtained from the authorities of the
railway, or from Mr. A. Waters, 22 Fabrique St., Quebec. About 112
miles from Quebec we reach the waters of Lake Edward, which is more
than twice the size of Lake St. Joseph and splendidly stocked with a
peculiarly fine and impetuous trout. The lake is somewhat more gen
erally known by the name of Lac des Grandes lies. It is leased by the
railway company, and fishing permits may be obtained free by all
patrons of the railway. There is an excellent hotel on the lake, the
Laurentides House, where camp outfits, guides, canoes, etc., may be
obtained. The waters of the lake are traversed by the little steamers
Swan, Ripple, and Emma ; but in its 100 miles of winding coast-line
lurk deep bays and inlets, as yet practically unexplored. The lake is
a veritable maze of islands, in whose labyrinths the heedless canoeist
may readily lose himself.
A hundred and thirty-five miles from Quebec the railroad skirts
Lake Kiskisink ; and, indeed, all the way from Lake Edward to Rober
val there are lakes innumerable on either hand, chief among which may
be mentioned Lakes Bouckette and des Commissaires. At C/iambord
Junction we come in view of Lake St. John itself. Here a branch
diverges eastward to St. Jerome ; but we continue up the west shore
of the lake 13 miles farther to Roberval.

Wast of Gr-etrWich 72

Lake St. John and Vicinity.

QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. 99
Lake St. John.
The Lake St. John Territory extends from the head of navigation
on the river Saguenay, at Chicoutimi, to the northern boundary of the
province of Quebec, a distance of 220 miles, and from the sources of
the waters flowing into Lake St. John, from the east, to the river St.
Maurice, embracing the valley of the river Batiscan, a distance of 200
miles, the whole forming an area of 44,000 square miles, or about
28,000,000 acres. Comparatively little is known of this great country,
with the exception of the valley of Lake St. John, which, within the
last few years, has been colonized with great rapidity, and now contains
a population of some 40,000. The soil is almost universally composed
of rich, gray clay, whose fertility seems well-nigh inexhaustible. The
climate of the region resembles that of Montreal, being more temperate
than that of Quebec, and with a much less heavy snow-fall. The lake
itself, called by the Indians Pikouagami, or " Flat Lake," is 28 miles
long by 25 miles broad, but for the most part not more than 80 ft. in
depth. There flow into it no fewer than 19 rivers, chief of which are
the mysterious Peribonca, 400 miles long, the Mistassini, 300 miles
long, and the Ashuapmouchouan, the " river where they watch the
moose," 150 miles in length. These are navigable for steamers for
distances of from 10 to 20 miles from their mouths, after which they
are obstructed by rapids and cataracts. The river Ouiatchouan is
famous for its magnificent falls, which lie in a most conspicuous and
impressive situation about a mile from the lake shore. This cataract
is estimated to possess a height of 280 ft. All these gathering waters
find an outlet by one great stream, called La Decharge du Lac
St. Jean, which at Chicoutimi becomes the Saguenay. This stream
is divided by Alma Island, for the first 8 miles of its course, into two
branches, called respectively the " Grande Decharge" and the " Petite
Decharge" — the former of which divides with the Peribonca the honor
of being the favorite resort of the " ouananiche."
This famous fish, whose name is spelled with a truly Chaucerian
breadth of variation, has quite eclipsed in reputation the other denizens
of these well-stocked waters. It is thus effectively and exactly
described by Messrs. L. M. Yale and J. G. A. Creighton in Scribner's
Magazine for May, 1889:
" In appearance a fresh-run salmon and a fresh-run ouananiche do
not differ much more than salmon from different rivers. The back of

100 QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN.
the ouananiche is green or blue, and in a fish just out of water can be
seen to be marked with olive spots, something like the vermiculations
on a trout ; the silvery sides are more iridescent, the X-marks are more
numerous and less sharply defined ; the patches of bronze, purple, and
green on the gill-covers are larger and more brilliant, and with them
are several large round black spots. As the water grows warm the
bright hues get dull, and toward autumn the rusty red color and hooked
lower jaw of the spawning salmon develops. As the ouananiche, unlike
the salmon, feeds continuously, and in much heavier and swifter water
than salmon lie in, it has a slimmer body and larger fins, so that a five-
pound ouananiche can leap higher and oftener than a grilse, and fight like
a ten-pound salmon. The variety of its habits, which are a compound of
those of the trout and those of the salmon, with some peculiarities of its
own, gives great charm to ouananiche-angling, and opportunity for every
style from the ' floating fly ' on tiny hooks to the ' sink and draw ' of the
salmon cast. It takes the fly readily when in the humor, though wary
and capricious like all its relations, and fights hard, uniting the dash of
the trout with the doggedness and ingenuity of the salmon. In railway
and hotel prospections the ouananiche weighs from five to ten pounds.
In Lake St. John and the Decharge the average is two and a half
pounds ; four-pounders are large and not too plentiful, while six-
pounders are scarce. The ouananiche is, however, much longer than a
trout of the same weight; a five-pounder, for example, is twenty-five
inches long, twelve inches in girth, and looks like an eight-pound
salmon. Now and then solitary fish of great size are seen, old habitants
dating from ' les premieres annees,' when ' ca en bouillail, monsieur, des
gros comme des carcajous' ('It just boiled, sir, with ones big as wild
cats'), but they are intensely wary and carefully guarded by the demon
of ill-luck. " Another writer, Kit Clarke, says that ' as a game fish, affording
stimulating sport and fomenting excitement in his capture, he is the
absolute sovereign of the watery kingdom. The sportsman whose hook
for the first time impales the fish will be dumfounded at the tre
mendous leaps and fiery struggles of this heroic antagonist. His
vigorous contentions are astounding, while at every leap into the air he
turns a complete somersault, all the while shaking his head with the
fierceness of an enraged tiger. These terrific leaps are so continuous
that one seems to be fighting the fish in the air as much as in the water.
... In the spring they are baited with raw beef or the white meat of
suckers, and I was told they took the fly in Juno, but although I tried
various kinds of flics I did not get a ' strike ' or see a rise. Afterward
I learned that July was the proper time for fly-casting, and that then
the fish rise with avidity. The lightest fish that fell to my rod weighed
two pounds, and the heaviest a trifle under five pounds. In six days I
took thirty-eight, and could readily have taken many more, but I had
enough.' "
At Pointe Bleue, on the shores of the Lake St. John, is a reserve of
Montagnais Indians, a most interesting tribe, of whom Mr. W. H. H.

QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. 101
Murray (Adirondack Murray), writes : " They are the ' mountaineers ' of
ancient times and wars, and dwelt among the Laurentian Hills. They
were a brave stock, and they and the Esquimaux of Labrador were never
at peace. Tho mounds of Mamelons, at the mouth of the Saguenay
could tell of wars fought on them for a thousand years, could their
sands but speak. The Montagnais at Roberval are very dark of skin.
They are great hunters, skilled trappers, great canoemen, and runners.
They are a racial curiosity and worthy of study on the part of the in
telligent tourist, and the sight of them and their peculiarities will be
entertaining to all." Tho tourist who contemplates doing the Lake St.
John region and the Saguenay will do well to procure Mr. Murray's
romances of " Mamelons " and " Ungava."
The accommodations on Lake St. John are all that could be desired
The Hotel Roberval is excellent in all respects. Its proprietor has se
cured from the Provincial Government the exclusive fishing rights of
the lake and its tributaries, with the double purpose of protecting the
fish adequately and of affording the guests of the house free fishing
facilities. A branch of the hotel, called the Island House, has been
established on an island in the Grande Decharge, in the midst of the
fishing-pools. A fascinating and thrilling canoe trip may be taken
from the Island House down the tumultuous river to Chicoutimi, to
meet the Saguenay stream. This trip — not designed for the timorous-
hearted — may be made for $10, which includes the hire of birch canoe
and two Indian guides. The Hotel Co. keeps on hand a supply of
camp outfits, which may be obtained by tourists who wish to go into
the wilderness. Such a wilderness may be reached by ascending al
most any of the inflowing rivers for a very few miles from their mouths.
Here are regions where not even the lumberman's axe has gone,
and where one may follow no footsteps more civilized than those of the
Montagnais trapper. The close season for ouananiche begins on Septem
ber 15th, and lasts till December 1st. The return ticket from Quebec to
Roberval costs $7.50 ; and for sportsmen, in parties, there are special
reductions made, with certain privileges as to dogs, equipments, etc., to
be enjoyed on application to the General Passenger Agent at Quebec.
Besides the ouananiche, the fish of the Lake St. John region, speaking
broadly, include salmon, maskinonge, speckled trout, great gray trout
(or togue, or touladi), bass, pickerel, white-fish. The Quebec and Lake
St. John R. R. is a new road, excellently constructed, and equipped
luxuriously in the most modern style ; and one may ride in a palace

102 DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE.
car into the very heart of these ancient northern wildernesses, so long
imagined to be a region of endless snow.
Down the St. Lawrence and up the Saguenay.
. The steamers of the Ontario and Richelieu Navigation Co. leave
Quebec at a comfortable hour in the morning, arrive at Tadousac, at
the Saguenay mouth, some little time after dark, ascend the mysterious
river by night to Chicoutimi, and then, leaving Chicoutimi in the early
morning, descend the Saguenay by daylight and afford the traveler a
perfect view of the terrific scenery. The fare to Chicoutimi and re
turn is $8. The trip is one never to bo forgotten. If the day be fine
— and if it is not, the wise tourist will delay his departure and await the
return of sunshine — the journey commences under delightful auspices.
The transparent morning light and crisp air bring out the full glory of
the enchanting city. Greener than ever appears Isle d'Orleans, more
beryl-bright the St. Lawrence tide, more white and cloud-like the skyey
curtain of the Montmorency Falls. When St. Anne's is passed the
dark mountains crowd forward yet more forbiddingly upon the north
ern rim of the river, rising hundreds of feet, in places, sheer from the"
water's edge. These Laurentide Hills are sometimes naked, sometimes
clad with somber forests ; but here and there they suffer a little valley
in their iron fronts, and every such valley has its tiny French village
and glittering chapel spire. It is a sterile corner, indeed, where the
hardy and frugal habitant will not make himself a home, and multiply
till he has no cause to dread a meeting with bis enemy in the gate.
These little secluded settlements are primitive in the extreme, and re
produce the Norman-French life of two centuries ago. The atmosphere
of the Laurentian Hills is not hospitable to change, and most of the
influences of mutability pass by on the other side of the river.
A little below the foot of Isle d'Orleans we pass, on the N. shore,
the promontory of Cap Tourmente, towering nearly 2,000 ft. from the
water's edge. Then come the granite masses of Cap Rouge and Cap
Gribaune, more than 2,000 ft. in height. The summit frowning over
Sault an Cochon (surely the swine of the Gadarenes, when they rushed
violently down a steep place and perished in the sea, had no such leap
as this) is 2,370 ft. in altitude. Beyond Cap Maillard comes in the
Bouchard River, up whose valley extends the populous village of St.
Francois XaHier. After passing Cap Labaie, the steamer heaves to, to

DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 103
meet the boats which come out from the thriving settlement of St.
Paul's Bay. Some of the finest scenery of the river's northern shore
is about this point. The valley lies open before the traveler's eyes.
The rivers Gouffre and Moulin open magnificent vistas into the strange
country back from the coast, which seems a sea of mountain-peaks.
The district is a volcanic one, subject to tremblings and shocks, and
abounding in curious salt and sulphur springs. It is said that in 1791
a peak to the north of the village vomited smoke and flame for several
days, while the country round about was tormented with earthquakes.
In 1663 the disturbances of this region were much more violent and
terrifying, and at Les fiboulements (well named), a few miles farther down
the coast, may still be seen the tracks of the frightful land-slides which
made such changes in the face of the landscape. " The St. Lawrence
ran white as milk as far down as Tadousac ; ranges of hills were
thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains ; earth
quakes shattered the houses, and shook the trees till the Indians said
that the forests were drunk ; vast fissures opened in the ground ; and
the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged serpents,
and ghastly specters were seen in the air ; roarings and mysterious
voices sounded on every side ; and tho confessionals of all the churches
were crowded with penitents awaiting the end of the world. ... An
earthquake rooted up a mountain and threw it upon Isle aux Coudres,
which was made one half larger than before ; and in the place of the
mountain there appeared a gulf, which it is not safe to approach."
This Isle aux Coudres lies with its head off Bay St. Paul and its
lower extremity off Les Ebonlements. Between its shores and Bay
St. Paul is Le Gouffrc, where the water suddenly attains a depth of 30
fathoms, and where the meeting of the flood tide with the river currents
makes a vast series of eddies and miniature whirlpools. Of old, ere Le
Gouffre had got filled up with sand deposits, there was a mighty whirl
pool, or succession of whirlpools, at the spot, and it was indeed " not
safe to approach," as the ancient chronicle declared. The district is
rich in iron, plumbago, limestone, and garnet-rock. The island, which
is between 5 and 6 miles long and about half as wide, is thickly peopled
with a thoroughly mediaeval farming population, the quaintest of the
quaint. It belongs to the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was granted
in 1687. The village of Les E^boulements, which we come to next, commands
from its lofty perch a magnificent view up and down thtfriver. Lofty

104 DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE.
as it is, the dark mass of Mt. Eboulement overlooks it, rising 2,600 ft.
from the water. As we emerge once more into the open St. Lawrence,
here about 1 5 miles wide, we are in a region much frequented by the
white whales, and may catch sight of the great beasts gamboling in
the waves. If we do, we shall certainly hear them greeted on all sides
as " porpoises," which they are not. They are hunted extensively for
their blubber and for their skins, which make an exceedingly valuable
leather. They range from 15 to 22 ft. in length.
Broad and sweeping is the base of Mt. Eboulement, and on its
eastern skirt lies the village of Si! Irenee. Then, passing Cap Sain, we
draw up at the long pier of Point d Pique, the landing-place for Murray
Bay, which is the most popular summer resort on the north shore of
the lower St. Lawrence. The bay is very shallow, and the village proper
(population between 3,000 and 4,000) lies at the head of it on the Murray
River. The summer hotels and cottages, however, are at the pier or across
the harbor, at the foot of the opposite promontory, Cap d I'Aigle. The
French name — -and the preferable one — for the place is Malbaie, hand
ed down from Champlain himself, who called it Malle Baie, on account
of " the tide that runs there marvelously." It is a fine fishing center,
as the Murray River and the Gr avel and Petit Lakes are abundantly
stocked with trout. Of this resort Mr. Le Moine says :
" Of all the picturesque parishes . . . none will interest the lover of
sublime landscape more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy
the rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He will not
find here the beautiful wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and
verdurous shores of Cacouna or Rimouski ; . . here are savage and
unconquered Nature, and view-points yet more majestic than those of
the coasts and walls of Bic ; precipice on precipice ; impenetrable gorges
in tho projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the
clouds, and among which the bears wander through July in search of
berries ; where the caribou browse iu September ; where the solitary
crow and the royal eagle make their nests in May — in short, Alpine
landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, a Byronic nature,
tossed about, heaped up in the north, far from the ways of civilized
men, near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the
country in a manner to frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic
inhabitants." From Murray Bay the steamer crosses the St. Lawrence diagonally
to Biviere du Loup (so called from the droves of seals, or loups-
marins, that of old frequented its shoals), a distance of about 30 miles.
Riviere du Loup is a thriving town of about 6,000 inhabitants, and

DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 105
is the point where the Intercolonial R. R. is joined by the Temiscou-
ata R. R. The town is picturesquely situated on high land near
the river-mouth. Near the town are the picturesque Riviire du Loup
Falls, where the stream makes a fine plunge of SO ft. into a deep, quiet
basin in the rocks. Riviere du Loup is a pleasant summer resort, and
is well supplied with hotels and boarding-houses. Six miles from
Riviere du Loup is the famous summer resort of Cacouna — probably
the most famous in Canada. It has admirable hotel accommodation,
fine beaches and scenery, and a remarkably cool, bracing climate in
the hottest months. The chief hotel of Cacouna is the St. Lawrence
Hall, which accommodates 600 guests. The Mansion House is com
fortable, and very moderate in its charges. Still cheaper are the numer
ous summer boarding-houses. Anything but moderate, however, are the
cab charges for the drive from Riviere du Loup to Cacouna, unless one
takes the wise precaution to arrange terms before starting. Cacouna
stands on a remarkable rocky peninsula nearly 400 ft. high.
From Riviere du Loup the steamer strikes diagonally across the St.
Lawrence again, for the mouth of the Saguenay, passing between Red Isl
and and the Brandy Pots. Tadousac, the ancient village at the Sague
nay mouth, lies about 135 miles from Quebec. It was visited in 1535
by Cartier, who saw many Indians fishing off the point, and heard from
them a marvelous story to the effect that by " ascending the Sague
nay you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who
live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." In 1543
Roberval explored the river and left most of his company in its awful
solitudes. The mystery hanging over the fate of Roberval and his
brother Aehille, who undertook another expedition in 1549, is not
lightened by the intelligence that remains of an ancient stockade and
post have lately been found on one of the wild rivers emptying into
Lake St. John, and that these are supposed by some to mark the last
resting-place of the daring but unfortunate explorers. One can under
stand the dread fascination that must have been exerted on those ad
venturous spirits by the Titanic gloom of the great river, together with
the strange tales of the Indians and the reputation of one of the tribes,
the Nasquapees, for marvelous and invincible powers of magic. These
Indians are thus described in Mr. Murray's romance already referred to :
" The Nasquapees are one of the most remarkable families of In
dians on the continent, and of whom but little is known. Their coun
try extends from Lake Mistassini eastward to Labrador, and from Un-

106 DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE.
gava Bay to the coast mountains of the St. Lawrence. They are small
in size, fine featured, with mild, dark eyes and extremely small hands
and feet. The name Nasquapees — Nasqupies — means ' a people who
stand straight.' They have no medicine-man or prophet, and hence
are called by other tribes atheists. Their sense of smell is so acute
that it rivals the dog's. Spirit-rappings and other strange manifesta
tions peculiar to us moderns have been practiced immemorially among
them, and carried to such a shade of success that one of our Boston
stances would be a laughable and bungling affair to them. Their lan
guage is like the western Crees, and their traditions point to a remote
Eastern origin."
In 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by PontgravS,
and a mere trading-post and fishing-station the place remained till
modern times, in spite of many attempts to make it a more permanent
settlement. Now it boasts a good summer hotel, with a cluster of cot
tages for summer visitors. There is good trout-fishing in the neighbor
hood, and sea-trout are caught in the deep water off the shore. A
point of interest near the hotel is the quaint old Jesuit Mission Chapel,
built in 1746.
Tadousac lies in a semicircular hollow among rounded knobs of
granite and huge round hills or " mamelons " of sand. These gigantic
sand-mounds, which rise in tiers to the height of 1,000 ft. or more
above the Saguenay, are supposed to be the geologic beaches of the
morning of the world, and to mark in their successive terraces that
shrinkage of the waters by which the earth's surface came to view. A
little east of the village lie the red granite masses of Point Rouge, and
beyond them the white marble of Moulin d Baude. In the ravines be
hind and on the gentler slopes are forests of spruce and birch, and the
fathomless sand of the " mamelons " slides down through the village to
the sea-green water of the St. Lawrence. Close on the western edge of
the village yawn the black jaws of the Saguenay. As the steamer,
crossing from Riviere du Loup, approaches Tadousac wharf by moon
light, the scene is one never to be forgotten.
The Saguenay.
If the night is fine, and the moon high in the heavens, the traveler
will linger late on deck. A detailed impression of the Saguenay he
will receive while descending it by daylight on the following day ; but
during this night ascent he may experience to the full the influence of
its monotonous and awful majesty. Over the still surface of ebony

THE SAGUENAY. 107
and silver, between the endless and unvarying walls of soaring rock,
the boat climbs northward deeper and deeper into this land of mystery.
Wrapped in one's rug— for, though it is July, an icy wind draws down out
of the north through this great trough— and crouching high in the
prow, one feels as if he were on a journey never before attempted by
man— as if he were about to explore the fabled lake of Mistassini, or
venture with Jason and his fellows on the ship Argo. Here and there
a great star peers curiously down through some high notch in the river-
wall, or somo far cascade, the overflow of a mountain-pool, flashes
whitely in the moonlight for a moment as it plunges from one darkness
to another. When the colossal gloom and grandeur of the scene have
begun to oppress the spirit, the traveler will do well to turn into his
berth, leaving directions to be called as the steamer approaches
Chicoutimi. This will be about daybreak ; and as the steamer usually
remains an hour or two at the wharf, there is time to go ashore and
see the village. The best possible thing to do is to climb the rocky
height behind the village, and watch the sun rise in severe splendor
over the bald Saguenay hills. But, before undertaking this, find out
from the captain exactly how long the steamer is going to stay on that
particular trip, lest it happen, as it did once to the present writer, that
while you are admiring the sunrise from the hill-top the steamer depart
without you, and leave you, perchance in marked deshabille, to linger
shivering in Chicoutimi till the coming of the next boat, or to drive
wildly over the hill-tops in a mad French-Canadian " buck-board," to
endeavor to overtake the truant steamer at Ha Ha Bay. When this
mishap befell me, with a friend who was in the same predicament, the
latter course was chosen; the drive was a cold one, for our attire was
hasty and informal, and a desperate one, for the road was astoundingly
precipitous and diversified, the Canadian pony as nimble and erratic as
a goat, and the " buck-board " driver regardless of consequences so
long as he earned the promised fee. But the experience was novel and
thrilling ; and we got there in time to sit on the wharf at St. Alphonse
and smile at the steamer blandly as she came in.
The town of Chicoutimi is a center of the lumber-trade. It is a
growing place and possesses good hotel accommodations. Its trade is
largely in the hands of the great lumbering firm of the Prices, the
head of which, Senator Price, of Quebec, is known as the " King of the
Saguenay." Close to the town the Chicoutimi River joins the Saguenay
by a fall about 50 feet in height. This river is an outlet of Lake Ke-

108 THE SAGUENAY.
nogami, and affords capital fishing for trout and salmon. The name
Chicoutimi signifies deep water.
From Chicoutimi to the Mouth.
The Saguenay can hardly be called a river. It is rather a stupen
dous chasm, from 1 to 2-J miles in width, doubtless of earthquake ori
gin, cleft for 65 miles through the high Laurentian plateau. Its walls
are an almost unbroken line of naked cliffs of syenite and gneiss. Its
depth is many hundred feet greater than that of the St. Lawrence ;
indeed, if the St. Lawrence were drained dry, all the fleets of the
world might float in the abyss of the Saguenay, and yet find anchorage
only in a few places. Of mere soft beauty the Saguenay landscape
can show none, save in one or two valleys where tributary streams
flow in. It has been called, indeed, the River of Death. Silence,
nakedness, and awe brood over it. Its grim solitudes are shunned
by bird and insect. The profound unmoving waters, on account of
their great depth, appear as black as pitch, with purple gleams in
the sunlight, and are broken only where the back of a white whale
rises for a moment into view. Its overpowering sublimity and meas
ureless desolation become oppressive to some visitors. A writer in the
London Times calls it " Nature's sarcophagus," and declares that,
" compared to it, the Dead Sea is blooming." The same writer con
tinues as follows : " The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing
up, or draining — anything, in short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal
awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx — they must have been purling brooks
compared with this savage river ; and a picnic on the banks of either
would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." The name
Saguenay is variously and most unsatisfactorily derived from " St. Jean
Nez " and from the Indian Saggishsekuss, meaning a " river whose
banks are precipitous." We are prepared for any derivation, however,
when we remember that the village of Des Joachims' on the Upper
Ottawa is popularly called " Swishaw."
From Chicoutimi, as far as the mighty inlet of Ha Ha Bay, the
scenery is bold indeed, but less gigantically so than that which greets
the traveler farther down. Ha Ha Bay runs 7 miles in between
the mountains, and ends in a spacious haven whose shores are lined
with the meadows of St. Alphonse. The mountains that encircle the
harbor are bright with red and orange stains dashed capriciously across
their bare front. A little way below Ha Ha Bay we pass, on the right

THE SAGUENAY. 109
shore, a cliff 900 feet high, called Le Tableau from its great, perfectly-
smoothed, square front, like a canvas stretched for painting. Farther
down on the same shore is Statue Point, " where, at about 1,000 feet
above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave,
in which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the en
trance to this black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue of some
dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, it gave
way, and the monstrous statue came crashing down through the ice of
the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had
guarded perhaps for ages."
Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity.
Having left behind Statue Point we approach the climax of Sague
nay scenery, the twin Capes Trinity and Eternity. These giant
cliffs, the one 1,600 the other 1,800 ft. in height, watch each other
across the black gulf of Eternity Bay, a narrow fiord wherein the sound
ing-lino must descend 1,000 ft. to reach the bottom. The dreadful sub
limity of these promontories, springing sheer from the black depths of
the mysterious river, compels the reverence of the most indifferent.
The northernmost cape justifies its name of Cape Trinity as we ap
proach it from up the river and observe that it consists of three mighty
precipices, each 500 or 600 ft. in height, piled one upon the other, and
fringed along the beetling top with wind-blown pines. On the side
overlooking Eternity Bay the aspect of the cape is different and vastly
more terrible. The steamer rounds in so close to the base of the preci
pice that one feels as if he could toss a pebble up against the wall of
rock ; but for a time no one is so hardy as to attempt it — it would seem
like sacrilege. The noisy crowd on the steamer's deck is hushed with awe
as all eyes strain upward toward the dizzy height which seems to reel
and topple above them, as if it would descend and close the gap. When
the instinctive tremor of apprehension has somewhat passed away, a
few of the passengers usually attempt to throw a stone across the in
tervening space. As the missile is launched vigorously into the air, it
seems as if it would strike well up on the face of the cliff, but the eye
is utterly deceived by the stupendous mass before it, and the stone cast
by the most vigorous thrower falls into the water, as if repelled by the
cliff, before it has traveled half the distance. ' Cape Eternity is per
haps 200 ft. higher than its terrible sister, but it deigns to slope a
little back from the water and to clothe its sublime proportions in a

110 THE SAGUENAY.
wealth of forest green. After having been staggered by the imminent
horror of Cape Trinity the eye rests with delight on the serene and
stable grandeur of its colossal mate. Between the capes there is a
remarkable echo, which is usually tested by blowing the steamer's
whistle or discharging a gun. When the Flying-Fish conveyed the
Prince of Wales up the river, one of her heavy 68-pounders was dis
charged near Cape Trinity. " For the space of half a minute or so
after the discharge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report
and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down
crash upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung
into life under the tremendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pound
ers full upon us in sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser
and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellowing Blowly, carrying
the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant mount
ains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion."
About 6 miles below Cape Trinity the cliffs part to make room for
St. John's Bay, which has a little village at its head, and water shallow
enough to give ships an anchorage. Four miles farther down flows in
a second Little Saguenay River, which drains a wilderness swarming
with trout and game. Then comes Rivih-e aux Canards, with a num
ber of grim and inhospitable islands clustered off its mouth. A little
farther down is Isle St. Louis, a ridge of granite half a mile in length
thrust up out of 1,200 ft. of water. These deeps swarnrwith salmon-
trout. Over against the islet, on the right shore, stand out the grand
promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. Looking northward
from this point one of the most magnificent views on the rivers is
opened before us. Two miles below we are astonished by the sight of
some low land, bordering the mouth of the Ste. Marguerite, which is
the Saguenay's chief tributary and a splendid salmon stream. Passing
the mouth of the St. Aihanase and Point Crepe we come to St. Etienne
Bay, with a little tilled soil about its rim. Now the cliffs draw closer
together, and the views are more restricted ; and leaving behind the
Posse Pierre Isles we reach a towering cape of granite called Pointe la
Boule, which thrusts itself out as if to bar our way. Toward dusk we
pass L'Anse a L'Eau, then Tadousac, and find ourselves once more
upon the breast of the St. Lawrence, having descended from Chicoutimi
67 miles exactly. From Tadousac to Quebec is a distance of 135 miles,
and we traverse it by night, arriving at Quebec in comfortable time
for breakfast.

QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. Ill
To the Maritime Provinces by Rail.
The favorite route to the Maritime Provinces is by the Inter
colonial Railway, which runs down the south shore of the St. Law
rence as far as Rimouski, then turns south and follows the valley of
the wild Metapedia to the junction of this river with the Restigouche.
Crossing the Restigouche we are in New Brunswick. Another route
to be described presently is by steamship via Gaspe and the gulf coast.
The three Maritime Provinces of Canada are Nova Scotia, New
Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, and the Intercolonial
Railway traverses them all. It is a government road, admirably built
and equipped, and most moderate in its charges. It runs through some
of the best fishing and shooting districts of the continent and some
very beautiful landscapes. The cars on through express trains are
lighted by electricity and heated by steam from the locomotive. The
head-offices of the railway are at Moncton, New Brunswick, and in
formation may be obtained by communicating with the Chief Superin
tendent or the General Passenger Agent. The fare by rail between
Quebec and Halifax is $14; return, $21. Quebec to St. John, N. B.,
$9; return, $15.75. From Quebec to Gaspe, via the Intercolonial
Railway, is $10.30; return, $16.23. Quebec to Moncton, N. B., $9.
Passengers for the Intercolonial leave Quebec by the Levis Ferry.
As the train runs down the St. Lawrence shore from Point Levis we
get a last glimpse of the Falls of Montmorency across the river. Five
miles from Levis we pass Harlaka Junction, and 9 miles farther St.
Charles Junction. The next half-dozen stations are named for as
many saints. The most important of them are the lumbering village
of Si. Michel, whose church contains some valuable paintings, and St.
Thomas, a, town of about 2,000 inhabitants, the seat of a convent and
of Montmagny College. High over the town towers its great parish
church. At this point there is a fine though not lofty cataract, where
the Riviere du Sud falls into the St. Lawrence. These falls are the
scene of a thrilling episode in De Gaspe's romance, The Canadians
of Old." The villages of Cap St. Ignace, L' Islet, and Trois Saumons
are interesting for their connection with the same romance, the scene
of which is laid chiefly about the next stopping-place, the romantic
little village of St. Jean Port Joli, 59 miles from Quebec. The next
stoppage of importance is at the thriving town of St. Anne de la Poca-
tiere, the seat of a large educational institution known as St. Anne's

112 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES.
College, which is attended by several hundred students, and has an
Agricultural College and Model Farm connected with it. The so-called
porpoise fisheries of Riviere Ouelle, the next stopping-place, have been
already referred to. Here dwells the well-known French-Canadian
historian, the Abbe Casgrain. In 1690 the cur'e of Riviere Quelle, at
the head of a band of his parishioners, defeated the New-Englanders of
Sir William Phipps's expedition. Here the railway leaves the shore
for a few.miles, and when it rejoins the river the Kamouraska Islands
are in sight just off the coast. The lovely village of Kamouraska, with
its great church and convent, was a favorite summer resort before the
stream of travel turned to Cacouna. The station on the Intercolonial
nearest to Kamouraska is St. Paschal. The next important stopping-
place is Riviere du Loup, which has been already described. This
town is 116 miles from Quebec. The traveler who wishes to go directly
to the upper waters of the river St. John, and the splendid trout-
streams of Lake Temiscouata and the Squattooks, may here branch off
by the Riviere du Loup and Temiscouata R. R., which runs through
the district in question and joins the New Brunswick division of the
Canadian Pacific at Edmundston, on the St. John. Five miles beyond
Riviere du Loup is Cacouna, already described. Then the next station
of importance is Trois Pistoles, 142 miles from Quebec. Here the
trains stop twenty minutes for refreshments, and in the well-kept
dining-hall of the station one may. often feast on delicious fresh-caught
trout. The village stands on a river of the same name, and there is a
tradition in regard to this name. It is said that in the year 1700, while
the river was yet nameless, a traveler rode up to its shore and asked a
solitary fisherman what he would take to ferry him across. " Trois
pistoles," was the reply. " What is the name of this river ? " asked
the traveler. "It has none," said the fisherman. "Then name it
Trois Pistoles," said the traveler. Trois pistoles means three ten-
franc pieces.
At St. Fabien, 18 miles beyond Trois Pistoles, there is good trout-
fishing from early in June to the end of August in small lakes a mile
or two from the station. The next stopping-place is at the summer
resort of Bic, situated on a picturesque and beautiful bay. The hills
around Bic are 1,300 ft. high, and out of their ravines descend, in
many cascades, two small rivers to mingle with the waters of the bay.
Off the coast is Bic Island, once intended to be made an impreg
nable fortress as a harbor of refuge for the French navy. In 1861,

&

mp' »n

"¦¦I

^WMS

QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 113
when the Trent difficulty threatened to cause a rupture between Eng
land and the United States, English troops were landed at Bic. Near
by is V Islet au Massacre, where once 200 Micmac Indians, while asleep
in a cave, were surprised by their inveterate enemies the Mohawks.
The Mohawks stealthily filled the mouth of the cave with dry wood,
then set it on fire, and slew every Micmac that succeeded in making his
escape through the flames. Ten miles beyond Bic is the important
station of Rimouski, an incorporated town with a large and growing
trade, a popular summer resort, and a port of call for ocean steamers,
where passengers and mail from the Maritime Provinces embark or land
as the case may be. Rimouski has good hotels, a fine Roman Catholic
cathedra], a college, and important public buildings. In the Rimouski
River and lakes in the neighborhood of the town there are excellent
trout and salmon fishing. Rimouski is the seat of a Roman Catholic
bishop, and is sometimes called the metropolis of the Lower St. Law
rence. Five miles beyond Rimouski is St. Anaclet, the station for
Father Point, where outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. At
Ste. Flavie, a railway divisional center 198 miles from Quebec, the
railway sweeps off southward from the St. Lawrence. There is excel
lent trout-fishing in July in lakes about Ste. Flavie. Presently it crosses
the famous fishing waters of the Metis. At the station of Little Metis,
5 miles back from the St. Lawrence, one is within easy reach of a num
ber of excellent trout lakes. The best months for fishing in these
waters are April and July, and the hotel, like the guides, will charge
about a dollar a day. Two hundred and twenty-seven miles from Que
bec lies the little village of Sayabec, near which we strike the waters
of Lake Metapedia. There are no regular hotels in the village, but
board may be obtained of some of the villagers, who also may be hired
to act as guides. There is good trout fishing in the lake, in the winter
months through the ice, and also in June. The next two stations,
Cedar Hall and Amqui, 8 miles apart, both afford excellent fishing.
The village hotel charges are moderate. At Cedar Hall the fishing is
in Lake Metapedia and the Metane River, and the best months are
June, July, and September. At Amqui the fishing, both for trout and
salmon, is in the Amqui and Metapedia Rivers, and the best months
are June, July, and August. Fourteen miles beyond Amqui is the
famous fishing resort of Causapscal. Here there is splendid salmon-
fishing in the Metapedia River, which flows close by the station; and
in Lakes Angus, Michaud, and Causapscal the trout are large and
8

114 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES.
abundant. The Metapedia, like most other really famous salmon
streams, is leased to private persons. Names of leaseholders, and
limits of their respective territories, etc., may be obtained by communi
cating with the Fisheries Commissioner of the Province in which the
water lies. June is the best month for the salmon, while the trout rise
best to the fly in June and August. Board is to be had in private
houses. As the train winds for hours down the tortuous valley of the Meta
pedia, the scenery from the car-window is enchanting. Sometimes
close beside the track, sometimes far below, the amber river foams
and darts, now leaping a low fall, now swirling slowly in a deep and
salmon-haunted pool, now laughing and rippling over wide, shallow
reaches, where the white quartz pebbles shine through the sunlit wa
ter. The river is fringed through most of its course with birch and
elder and moose-wood and mountain-ash ; and the hills which rise in
majestic slopes on either hand, cleft here and there by the gorge of
a winding mountain stream, are clothed richly with foreste of birch
and fir. In the autumn these hills are yellow as gold, and the heavy
clusters of the mountain-ash berries shine along the water's edge in
vivid vermilion. Along this valley the stations are few and far be
tween. The nearest to Causapscal is Pleasant Beach, and then comes
Assametquaghan. Passing Mill Stream we come to Metapedia, 290
miles from Quebec, and enter the magnificent valley of the far-famed
Restigouche, the boundary between the provinces of Quebec and
New Brunswick. In crossing the railway bridges here we get a fine
view from the car-windows up and down the valley.
From Quebec to the Maritime Provinces by Steamship
around Gaspe and the Gulf Coast.
The route between Quebec and Gaspe is served by the steamer
Admiral ; but on every alternate Tuesday morning a fine boat of the
Quebec Steamship Company leaves Quebec for Gaspe and adjacent ports,
and continues down the New Brunswick coast to Point du CMne, thence
to Summerside and Charlottetown in Prince Edward Island, and to
Pictou in Nova Scotia, where she arrives on Saturday. This is a
comfortable saltwater voyage, lying nearly all the way through
waters that are rarely rough. The coast scenery is fine, particularly
about tho wild cliffs of Gaspe. The fare to Gaspe is $10; return,

49'

48°

West or breenwich

TJie Gaspe Peninsula.

QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 115
$15. The fare to Pictou is $16; return, $24. These rates include
meals. The voyage down the St. Lawrence as far as Father Point has
been already described A little way beyond is the whaling village of
Metis, situated right opposite the strangely shaped Manicouagan Penin
sula, which fills up the spacious bay at the mouths of the great Labrador
rivers, Manicouagan and Outarde. Beyond Metis is the farming and
lumbering village of Matane, whose broad, sandy beach affords delight
ful opportunities for bathing. Hero flows in the Matane River, famous
for its trout and salmon. Far off to the southwest, rising out of the
heart of the Gaspe wilderness, we note the lofty summits called the
Caps of Matane. The St. Lawrence here is over 40 miles in width, but
it narrows again to 35 miles as we approach Cape Chatte, 33 miles east
of Matane. At Cape Chatte is an important lighthouse. Near here
took place, in June, 1629, a naval battle between the English ship Abi
gail and a French war-ship commanded by Emery de Caen, which re
sulted in a victory for the Englishman. The Cape is named for Eymard
de Chaste, Governor of Dieppe, who in 1603 sent out an exploring and
colonizing expedition which was led by Pontgrave and Lescarbot.
Twelve or 15 miles eastward we round Cape St. Anne to the village of
St. Anne des Monts, the center of extensive mackerel, cod, and halibut
fisheries. In the adjoining river, the St. Anne, trout and salmon lit
erally swarm. A few miles back from the coast rise the lofty St.
Anne Mountains, whose chief peak reaches the height of 4,000 feet.
These mountains are a spur of the great Gaspesian range called the
Shick-shock or Notre Dame Mountains. The old chronicler Lalemant
in 1648 wrote as follows : " All those who come to New France know
well enough the mountains of Notre Dame, because the pilots and
sailors being arrived at that part of the great river which is opposite
to those high mountains, baptize ordinarily for sport the new passen
gers, if they do not turn aside by some present the inundation of this
baptism which is made to flow plentifully on their heads."
From Cape St. Anne to Point Pleureusc, a distance of 28 miles, the
coast is but a wall of towering cliffs. Eleven miles beyond is Cape
Magdelaine at the mouth of the Riviere Magdelaine. All this region
has furnished themes for the wildest legends. The name Pleureuse is
suggestive enough in itself. The superstitious sailors and fishermen
of these haunted coasts tell of the piteous lamentations they hear —
Le Braillard de la Magdelaine — which they ascribe to a damned soul

116 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES.
seeking to tell its torments. It is usually supposed to be the soul of a
murderous wrecker — for some of the old Gaspesian wreckers earned a
reputation as black as that which clings to the wreckers of the west
coast of Newfoundland. Others again, of a more ecclesiastical turn of
imagination, declare, that the wailings are the penitential cries of a
priest who willfully suffered a little one to die unbaptized. The most
piteous of the tales is that of a wreck on this iron coast in which only
one person came to shore alive. This was a baby boy, who lay crying
all night in the horrible desolation, and died because no help came. A
probable explanation of the weird voices may be found in the wave-
eaten caverns of the cliffs, in which the sea moans and cries incessantly.
Quitting this grim haunt of mysteries we pass Grande Vallee and
come to Cloridorme, an important settlement, and the seat of a large
branch of the great fishing firm of Robin & Co., which has its head
quarters in the Isle of Jersey. Then we pass the fishing hamlet of Fox
River, and find ourselves off Cap des Rosiers, sometimes called " the
Scylla of the St. Lawrence." Here lies the village of Cape Rosier,
which, with the neighboring settlements of Griffin's Cove and Grand
GrSve, are dependent on the great Gaspe fishing firm of W. Hyman &
Sons. At this point we may be said to pass out of the gates of the
St. Lawrence, which is here 96 miles wide. On the cape stands a light
house of stone 112 ft. high. Due N., like a stern sentinel guarding
the riches and loveliness within, stands the grim Isle of Anticosti, in the
middle of the river's giant mouth. The isle is no less than 135 miles
long by 40 in width ;¦ but this great area must be regarded as hopelessly
inhospitable. The coast is perilous, the climate cruel, the soil sterile.
Within a year or so there were a thousand or more inhabitants on the
island ; but these, having come to the verge of starvation, were lately
removed to the mainland and kindlier surroundings. Now the only
dwellers in this wilderness are the lighthouse-keepers. Seal-fishers
visit the spot in the fishing season ; and the island streams abound .
with trout and salmon, as do its barrens with feathered game.
Six miles beyond Cap des Rosiers, we reach the vast projecting
promontory of Cape Gaspe, which thrusts out into the Gulf of St.
Lawrence a towering rampart of sandstone 690 ft. in height. The
name of the cape, and thence of the whole great peninsula, is derived
from the Indian word " Gas6pion," applying to a lonely detached rock
100 ft. high which once rose out of the waves off the extremity of the
cape. From its resemblance to a statue the habitants called this rock .

QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 117
"La Vieille." The ceaseless battering of storms has at length over
thrown this picturesque and historic landmark. Seven miles and a
half S. of Cape Gaspe rises the promontory of Point St. Peter ; and
between them lies the deep inlet of Gaspe Bay, which runs 20 miles
inland, and keeps at its head the secure harbor of Gaspe Basin.
As we run up the bay we pass on our right the perilous shores of
Grand Greve, on which the seas pile furiously when the wind draws
up the coast. On the left shore of the bay is the village of Douglas-
town, at which flow3 in a famous salmon river called the St. John.
Then the bay narrows, and round the natural breakwater of Sandy
Beach we enter the harbor of Gaspe Town. This is a growing place,
the headquarters of immense cod and mackerel fisheries, and the chief
town on the whole Great Gaspe Peninsula. It has between 800 and 900
inhabitants, and its noble and unique scenery, matchless summer climate,
and the magnificent trout and salmon fishing of the adjacent York
and Dartmouth Rivers, havo attracted the attention of travelers. The
town is possessed of a comfortable hotel, the Gulf House. Its fishing
operations are chiefly in the hands of the great firm of Le Boutillier
Bros. From its wharf a fortnightly mail steamer runs to Esquimaux
Bay on the coast of Labrador. Its piers are thronged with schooners
and an occasional whaling-ship. The surrounding fields are fruitful
and well peopled, and petroleum has been found in the neighborhood
by boring. On a hill overlooking the town are the guns of Fort Ram
say. The Indians who of old inhabited this region had made consid
erable advances in civilization, perhaps from intercourse with the Norse
men, who are supposed to have visited the country frequently in the
eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries. In 1534 Cartier landed
here and took possession in the name of the King of France, erecting
a cross 30 ft. high with the fleur-de-lis upon it. In 1627 a French fleet
of 20 ships of war and transports, carrying emigrants and a great
quantity of stores for the colony at Quebec, was driven by a storm to
take shelter in Gaspe Basin. Hither they were followed by Admiral
Kirke with three English ships. The battle resulted in the utter defeat
of the French. Kirke burned ten of the ships, and sailed the others,
laden with captives and treasure, back to England. In 1760, Gaspe
was taken by Admirable Byron. At one time the peninsula of Gas-
pesia was erected into a separate province, and Gaspe made the seat of
government ; an honor which it did not long enjoy, as the peninsula, on
account of its scanty population, was soon reannexed to Quebec.

118 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES.
Running out of Gaspe Bay the steamer rounds Point St. Peter and
crosses the mouth of Mai Bay, 9 miles wide, to the village of Perd.
The port of Perce may be likened to that Salmydessian Harbor which
jEschylus called " a step-mother to ships." It lies open to northeasterly
storms, and was formerly called La Terre des Tempetes. The village
has between 400 and 500 inhabitants. It fairly lives and breathes cod
fish. It is divided by Mont Joli into two settlements called North
Beach and South Beach. From the rugged top of Mount St. Anne,
rising behind the village to a height of 1,200 ft., with rich fossils and
agates upon its bleak red slopes, may be had one of the finest views
in eastern Canada. The most famous landmark of the whole penin
sula lies just off the village Perce. This is tho renowned Perce
Bock. It is thus described by Mr. J. G. A. Creighton in Picturesque
Canada : ,
La Roche Perce, " the pierced rock," stands bold and firm to the
end, though the cliffs of Mont Joli, on the mainland, and of Bonaven-
ture Island, 2 miles out at sea, confirm the Indian tradition, given by
Denys, that once there was no break in these perpendicular walls of
rich-hued conglomerate, where the reds and browns of sandstone, the
bright olives and grays of limestone, greens of agate, purples of jasper,
white quartz, and deep-orange stain of iron blend together, and, seen
against brilliant blue sky and emerald sea, form a wondrous combina
tion of color; but the waves, with unbroken sweep from the open
ocean, beat fiercely on this marvelous rock and have already battered
down the three grand arches Denys saw. Seventy years before Denys,
Champlain says there was only one arch, which was large enough for a
sloop under full sail to pass through. At present there is but one
opening, 40 or 50 ft. high. Many remember the mighty crash with
which the immense arch at the outer end of the rock fell just before
dawn one morning about forty years ago, leaving as its monument the
great monolith that formed its abutment. Slowly and surely wind and
sea are doing their work ; they have begun another aperture, not more
than a couple of feet in diameter, through which the sunbeams flash as
the eclipsing wave-crests rise and fall. On the north side is a tiny
beach where you can land at low tide on a calm day. It is like a prof
anation to tread on the piles of agate and jasper glistening with water,
whose every roll tosses up millions of pebbles for the sun to turn into
rarest jewels. Myriads of fossils give to the face of the rock, that at a
distance looks so hard and weather-worn, the appearance of an ara
besque in richest velvet. In this little cove, shut in by the cliff from
sight of everything but the water and the sky, with no sound but the
cries of the countless birds that tenant the dizzy heights and the music
of the surf as its thunderous bass dies away in rapid fugues to tender-
est treble of clattering pebbles and dashing spray, we might sit and
dream till the great, green rollers, through which a mysterious light

ftrifii

-M

Gaspe Residents returning from Church.

QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 119
gleams on weird shapes of trees and grottoes, and castles and palaces,
carried us off willing visitors to the enchanted land they reveal.
Everywhere else the rock rises straight from deep water to a height
of 300 ft. At its western end it is worn to a wedge as sharp and
straight and clear-cut as the prow of an immense ironclad, which it
singularly resembles in outline, if any one imagine an ironclad 1,500 ft.
long and 300 ft. wide. Its top is covered with grass, but this is barely
visible because of the immense flocks of birds, winged armies ranged
in serried order. Each tribe inhabits its own territory ; the black cor
morants never mingle with the white gulls ; the great gannets and the
graceful terns keep their own places. If any presumptuous bird wan
ders into the ranks of another tribe there is a tremendous screaming
and flapping of wings to drive away the intruder. They come and go
incessantly, circling high over the schools of herring, and plunging
deep to seize their prey; they swoop around the cod fishers at anchor
far out on the banks ; they follow the boats into the beach where the
packers are at work ; they flit like ghosts about the nets when in the
silvery moonlight the fishermen go in quest of bait ; but they return
always to the one spot allotted to them among the densely packed mass
of white that from a distance looks like a bank of snow. During a
storm their shrieking is almost unearthly, and can be heard for miles.
In 1776 a naval battle took place off Perce Rock between a fleet of
American privateers and the British war-ships Wolf and Diligence, in
which two of the American ships were sunk. Our steamer passes now
between Perce Rock and the towering cliffs, from 400 to 500 ft. high,
of Bonaventure Island, which stands 2| miles off shore. Nine miles
from Perce we pass the fishing village of Cape Cove, and round the
promontory of Cape d'Espoir, whose name on the tongues of the Eng
lish-speaking inhabitants is very antithetically corrupted into Cape
Despair. This is a scene of wrecks, and the fishermen say that some
times when wind and sea are undisturbed, there comes a vision of dread
ful waves rolling in upon the cape, bearing on their crests a spectral
ship whose decks are crowded with people in the dress of long ago.
In the bow stands an officer with a woman in white clinging to his
arm ; and as the ship is hurled upon the rocks, over the crash and roar
and crying of many voices rises the shriek of the woman. Then all is
quiet again and the sea lies still and smiling. Seven miles from the
cape lies Robin & Co.'s village of Grand River. Then we pass Gra'id
Pabos and Petit Pabos, the little Acadian village of Newport, and round
Point Maqucreau, where in 1838 the treasure-ship Colborne was
wrecked with the loss of all on board, to the great enriching of the
Gasp<§ wreckers. Beyond Point Maquereau lie the quiet and lovely

120 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES.
waters of the Bay des Chaleurs. Our steamer turns south and runs
down the gulf coast of New Brunswick, into Northumberland
Strait to Shediac, Prince Edward Island ports, and Pictou, where she
arrives on Saturday ; these places will be described in connection with
another route, and here we will make a short divergence to point out
some places of interest along the Gaspe shore of Bay Chaleurs.
A few miles beyond Point Maquereau is the settlement of Port
Daniel. Then we come to Paspebiac (meaning " broken banks "), an
importantfishing village of about 500 inhabitants, who are nicknamed
locally Paspy Jacks. Here is a little hotel called the Lion Inn. In
the neighborhood of the village one may pick up fine specimens of
jasper known as Gaspe pebbles. The harbor is protected by a natural
breakwater in the form of a sand beach 3 miles long. The trim cot
tages of the village crown the cliffs, along the foot of which stretch
the great red and white buildings of the firm of Robin & Co., so often
mentioned. The headquarters of this firm, founded in 1768, are in
the Isle of Jersey ; and the officers of the firm on this side the water
are required to live in single blessedness. Paspebiac holds also an im
portant post of the Le Boutilliers, and its yearly export of fish amounts
in value to over $250,000. From Paspebiac to the Intercolonial at
Metapedia runs the Baie-des-Chaleurs Railway, a distance of 100 miles.
Beyond Paspebiac, near the mouth of the Bonaventure River, is the lit
tle town of New Carlisle, which was founded in 1785 by United Empire
Loyalists. Next we come to Cascapedia Bay, with the villages of Maria
and New Richmond, whence steamers run across to Dalhousie. Near
Maria flows in the Grand Cascapedia River, on which are some of the
most famous salmon-pools in the world. Here the successive Governor-
Generals of Canada have their fishing lodges, and here was a favorite
summer resort of the Princess Louise when she dwelt in Canada.
President Arthur, also, used to come hither and cast a fly on these
unrivaled waters. Beyond Cascapedia Bay lies the important Aca
dian village of Carleton, with a population of 1,033. The village is
watched over by the lovely peak of Tracadiegash. It has a large eon-
vent, and extensive herring-fisheries. A few miles beyond Carleton
we reach the fertile valley of the Nouvelle River, a beautiful stream of
ice-cold water descending from the mountains. Its trout are famous
for their size and strength. Above the settlement the river is leased
by an American. Continuing for a few miles over a range of hills we
reach the Escuminac River, a smaller stream than the Nouvelle, which

QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 121
contains trout of unusual size. This may be fished by arrangement
with the warden of the river at Escuminac station. A little beyond
lies the mouth of the Ristigouche, and either at Metapedia, Campbcllton,
or Dalliousie, we may bring to an end our journey in this direction.
The fare by rail from Metapedia station to Carleton is $1.62 ; return
$2.81 ; to New Richmond and return, $3.81 ; to Paspebiac and return,
$6.31.
PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK.
New Brunswick is first of all a lumbering, ship-building, and fishing
province. She also has heavy agricultural interests, and her great min
eral wealth is beginning to find development. In shape the province is
nearly a square, the seaward sides of which are washed respectively by
the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy. The center of the
province is yet for the most part a wilderness, threaded and dotted in
all directions with lakes and brooks and rivers, and abounding with fish
and game. Till about a century ago New Brunswick formed a portion
of Nova Scotia or the old Acadian territory. In 1784, on the influx of
the United Empire Loyalists, it was erected into a separate province.
The history of Canada may be said to open on the St. Lawrence
coast of this province, not very far from where we entered it in our
descent by rail from Quebec. It began on June 30th, when Cartier
sighted Cape Escuminac on the gulf-shore of New Brunswick. Coming
from the bleak, forbidding coasts of Newfoundland, which he deemed
to be Cain's portion of the earth, this harsh corner of Acadia appeared
to Cartier a paradise. The wide water in which he found himself was
Miramichi Bay. Not discovering the Miramichi itself, whose mouth
lay hidden close at hand, behind long ranges of sand-spits, chains of
islands, and intricate shoals, ho landed on the banks of a lesser river,
not identified among the thousand such that overlaee that region with
their silver courses. This stream rippled shallow over its gleaming
pebbles, and swarmed with trout and salmon. The woods about were
of pine and cedar, elm and oak, birch, willow, fir, maple, and tamarack,
and the sailors' hearts rejoiced over such unlimited possibilities of ships.
Where the woods gave back a little space, the ground was covered with
wild fruits. Great, melting strawberries betrayed themselves to the lips
by their red gleams piercing the grass. The bronze-green blackberry
thickets were heavy with their yet unripened fruitage, and the wild pea

122 PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK.
trammeled his footsteps with its ropes of purple and pale green. This
prodigal land was populous with game. When wild pigeons in in
numerable flocks streamed past and darkened the air, the heavens
seemed as thick with wings as the sea and streams with fish. The men
lay awake at night and listened with wonder to the noise of the count
less salmon passing the shoals. Every sedge-grown marsh was noisy
with ducks. Plover and curlew piped clearly about the edges of the
pools. And the people possessing this land were friendly and few.
Bearing northward Cartier's weather-darkened sails were soon waft
ing him over the fairest bay his eyes had yet rested upon. Its waters
were clear and green, and scarce rippled under the steep sun of mid-
July. No reefs, no shoals, but here and there a dark-green island
asleep on the sleepy tide. On either hand a long, receding line of lofty
shores drawing closer together toward the west, and shading gently
from indigo to pale violet. So great was the change from the raw
winds of the gulf to this sultry sea that Cartier named it Baie des
Chalenrs. Here they passed some days very sweetly in indolent ex
ploration, in trading with the hospitable Micmacs, in feasting on seal-
flesh and salmon. So commercial were the natives of this land that
they bartered the clothes they wore for trades and trinkets. Then
Cartier sailed on to the north to discover the St. Lawrence. The first
attempt at settlement, however, was in the extreme southwest of the
province, and was undertaken by Champlain and the Sieur de Monts in
1604. This attempt, as well as the successive immigrations of French,
of New England pioneers, and of the United Empire Loyalists, will be
referred to in other connections. The Bestigouche.
The name Bestigouche signifies the five-fingered river — so called
from the five great branching tributaries which spread abroad through
Quebec and New Brunswick like the fingers of an open hand. Of
these branches the Upsalquitch is a marvelous trout and salmon stream,
but difficult of access on account of its almost continuous rapids, and
somewhat hard to fish successfully by reason of the preternatural clear
ness of its currents. The ample stream of the Quah-ta-wah-am-quah-
davic has had its name providentially condensed by the lumberman into
Tom Kedgewick. The course of the Restigouche is nowhere broken
by falls or impassable rapids ; and its strong, full, unflagging current

1? s

THE RESTIGOUCHE. 123
makes it a magnificent stream for the canoe-man. Its salmon-fisheries
are famed the world over, and are for the most part in the hands of
fishing-clubs made up of wealthy Canadian and American anglers.
The Restigouche salmon is remarkable for his size. He is a very dif
ferent fish from his fellows of Nepisiguit and Miramichi. He does
more of his fighting under water, and usually takes the fly when it is
below the surface. He has been made the subject of a bright article
in Scribner's Magazine for May, 1888. Gigantic and magnificent as he
is, he is capricious in his appetite, and frequently when he is most
wanted he is not there. His fame has quite eclipsed that of the noble
Restigouche trout, who is always on hand to console the disappointed
fisherman. The killing of a Restigouche salmon is thus vividly
described in the article just referred to :
We pass around two curves in the river and find ourselves at
the head of the pool. . . . First cast, to the right, straight across
the stream, about 20 ft. ; the current carries the fly down with a
semicircular sweep until it comes in line with the bow of the canoe.
Second cast, to the left, straight across the stream, with the same
motion; the semicircle is completed, and the fly hangs quivering for a
few seconds at the lowest point of the arc. Three or four ft. of line
are drawn from the reel. Third cast, to the right ; fourth cast, to the
left. Then a little more line. And so, with widening half circles, the
water is covered gradually and very carefully, until at length the angler
has as much line out as his two-handed rod can lift and swing. . . .
This seems like a very regular and somewhat mechanical proceeding
as one describes it, but in the performance it is rendered intensely
interesting by the knowledge that, at any moment, it is liable to be in
terrupted by an agreeable surprise. One can never tell just when or
how a salmon will rise, or just what he will do when he has risen.
This morning the interruption comes early. At the first cast of the
second drop, before the fly has fairly lit, a great flash of silver darts
from the waves close by the boat. Usually a salmon takes the fly
rather slowly, carrying it under water before he seizes it in his mouth.
But this one is in no mood for deliberation. He has hooked himself
with a rush, and the line goes whirring madly from the reel as he races
down the pool. Keep the point of the rod low ; he must have his own
way now. Up with the anchor quickly, and send the canoe after him,
bowman and sternman paddling with swift strokes. He has reached
the deepest water ; he stops to think what has happened to him ; we
have passed around and below him ; and now with the current below
to help us we can begin to reel in. Lift the point of the rod with a
strong, steady pull. Put the force of both arms into it. The tough
wood will stand the strain. The fish must be moved; he must come
to the boat if he is ever to be landed. He gives a little and yields
slowly to the pressure. Then suddenly he gives too much, and runs

124 THE RESTIGOUCHE.
straight toward us. Reel in now as swiftly as possible, or else he will
get a slack on the line and escape. Now he stops, shakes his head
from side to side, and darts away again across the pool, leaping high
out of water. Drop the point of the rod quickly, for if he falls on the
leader he will surely break it. Another leap, and another ! Truly he
is ''a merry one," as Sir Humphry Davy says, and it will go hard with
us to hold him. But those great leaps have exhausted his strength,
and now he follows the line more easily. The men push the boat
back to the shallow side of the pool until it touches lightly on the
shore. The fish comes slowly in, fighting a little and making a few
short runs ; he is tired and turns slightly on his side ; but even yet he
is a heavy weight on the line, and it seems a wonder that so slight a
thing as the leader can guide and draw him. Now he is close to the
boat. The boatman steps out on a rock with his gaff. Steadily now
and slowly lift the rod, bending it backward. A quick, sure stroke of
the steel ! a great splash ! and the salmon is lifted high and dry upon
the shore. Give him the coup de grace at once, for his own sake as
well as ours. And now look at him, as he lies there on the green
leaves. Broad back ; small head tapering to a point ; clean, shining
sides, with a few black spots on them ; it is a fish fresh run from the
sea, in perfect condition, and that is the reason why he has given us
such good sport.
The fishing rights to many of the best pools on the Restigouche are
held by gentlemen owning the adjacent shores, and it is usually easy
to get permission for a cast in one or another of the pools.
From the bridge the railroad follows down the S. shore of the Res
tigouche a few miles to Campbellton, where there is a first-class dining-
hall in the station. Immediately behind the village of Campbellton
rises a peculiar mountain called the Sugar-Loaf, about 1,000 ft. in
height. The face of Sugar-Loaf is inaccessible on the side next the
village. Its base on this side is strewn thick with mighty bowlders,
which have detached themselves on slight provocation. The view from
the summit is remarkably fine. Yonder lies the park-like amphitheatre
wherein the Restigouche and Metapedia meet, coiling hither and
thither in bands of azure. Beyond, towering over innumerable lesser
hills, the peaks of Squaw's Cap and Slate Mountain ; and over the shin
ing waters of the Baie des Chaleurs the blue ranges of the Tracadiegash
in Gasp'e, the practically unexplored terminations of the Alleghany
system. Below our feet the white cottages of Campbellton shine in
the transparent atmosphere.
Within the mouth of the Restigouche there stood in old times a
French town called Petite Rochelle. Across the river from Campbellton
lies the Micmac settlement of Mission Point, where the remains of two

Valley of the Metapedk

THE RESTIGOUCHE. 125
French vessels may still be seen at low water. The Micmac village
stands upon a good coal-field. In 1760, when the French Government
was seeking to regain Quebec, 22 store-ships were sent out from France
under a strong convoy. In the gulf they learned the distasteful in
telligence that an English fleet had gone up the St. Lawrence ahead of
them. Thereupon they took shelter in the Baie des Chaleurs, where
they were followed by Admiral Byron, commander of the British naval
forces at Louisbourg. The British squadron, consisting of five ships,
captured two of the French vessels on the way up the bay. The French
fleet, fleeing into the Restigouche, took refuge under the batteries of
Petite Rochelle, whither the English followed, and after silencing the
batteries brought on a general engagement. At length the explosion
of a French powder-ship brought the battle to a close ; and the English
destroyed not only the whole squadron but the fortifications and the
200 houses of Petite Rochelle. On the site of the ruined town relics of
various kinds are yet from time to time unearthed. Nine miles from
Campbellton the train stops at Dalhousie Junction, whence a run of
7 miles brings us to the lovely watering-place of Dalhousie, with its
famous summer hotel, the Inch Arran. Dalhousie lies on the beautiful
and placid waters of the Baie des Chaleurs. It is the capital of Resti
gouche County, and has a population of between 2,000 and 3,000, with
a considerable trade in lumber and fish. In the deep sheltered harbor
of Dalhousie the boating and bathing facilities are all that could be
desired. The Indian name of the Baie des Chaleurs is Ecketuam
Nemaache, which signifies " a Sea of Fish," and is in the highest degree
appropriate. The waters of the bay are brooded over by the charm of
many legends, chief among which is that of the " Phantom Ship,"
whose lurid shape is said to appear at times off the coast, and to be
associated in some indeterminate manner with the omnipresent Cap
tain Kidd. Here lies the scene also of the brutal deed of Skipper
Ireson, the subject of a spirited ballad by Whittier :
" Small pity for him !— He sailed away
From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay —
Sailed away from a sinking wreck,
With his own town's-people on her deck 1
' Lay by ! lay by 1 ' they called to him ;
Back he answered : ' Sink or swim 1
Brag of your catch of fish again 1 '
And off he sailed through the fog and rain."

126 THE RESTIGOUCHE TO MONCTON.
From the Restigouche to Moncton.
From Dalhousie Junction to Bathurst the traveler gets some noble
and spacious views from the car-windows. Ten miles from the Junc
tion is Charlo, beside the Charlo River, a small stream which has not
been leased for several years, though it is a capital trout-stream, and
one may kill a few salmon on it in the early part of the season. Six
teen miles farther on we cross Jacquet River, a famous fishing stream,
which a few years ago was nearly depleted by poachers, but which is
rapidly regaining its old status under judicious protection. Beyond
Jacquet River we pass the unimportant stations of Belledune and Petite
Roche, at the latter of which we cross the little Nigadou River. As we
approach the fine harbor of Bathurst we cross the Tatagouche River.
Then we come to the town of Bathurst, where flows in the Nepisiguit
River. The name Nepisiguit signifies foaming waters. Besides this
river and the Tatagouche, two other streams empty themselves into
the lovely basin of Bathurst Harbor — namely, Middle River and the
Little Nepisiguit. All are fishing streams, but the fame of the lesser
three is quite eclipsed by that of the Nepisiguit. The name Tatagouche
is a corruption of the Indian Tootoogoose, which signifies Faiiy River.
The town of Bathurst is beautifully situated on two high points, sepa
rated by a shallow estuary. It has a population of about 3,000, and a
considerable trade in fish and lumber. The chief hotel is the Kearey
House. The settlement of Bathurst was begun in 1638 by a wealthy
Basque, M. Jean Jacques Enaud, who took to himself as wife a Mo
hawk princess. But difficulties arose between the French and the
Indians, and the latter at length destroyed the infant settlement. The
district was an old battle-ground of the Mohawks and the Micmacs.
At different times settlements were begun on the harbor, only to be
destroyed by the savages or by American privateers. The present town
was founded in 1 818 by Sir Howard Douglas.
The reputation of the Nepisiguit as a salmon-stream is second only
to that of the Restigouche and Miramichi. It rises in a number of
lakes in the high central plateau of the province, separated by only a
short portage from the head-waters of certain of the St. John's chief
tributaries. The course of the Nepisiguit is tumultuous and broken.
Twenty miles above its mouth it plunges in four leaps over a magnifi
cent cataract 140 ft. in height, known as the Grand Falls of the Nepi-
tiguit. Below the fall the river glides through a narrow channel be-

THE RESTIGOUCHE TO MONCTON. 127
tween high cliffs. Above its debouchement it rolls over a bed of great
granite bowlders. Though the river is leased, and a good deal of money
spent on its protection, its salmon-fisheries are deteriorating, owing, it
is said, to a system of trap-nets below tide-water, so arranged as to
prevent fish entering the river. This difficulty, it seems, can hardly be
remedied, as tidal waters are not under the control of the provincial
authorities. Throughout the whole of its upper course, however, the
river simply swarms with trout of large size, which are rarely disturbed
owing to the comparative inaccessibility of the waters they occupy.
The best way to reach them is from the other side of the province, by
a canoe trip up the Tobique and down the Nepisiguit from its Bource.
This is a trip to delight such bold canoe-men as long for the complete
wilderness and a little spice of danger. The salmon of the Nepisiguit
are smaller than those of the Restigouche, but a very fierce and active
fish. Five miles beyond Bathurst lies Gloucester Junction, whence the
Caraquet Railway runs down to the Baie des Chaleurs shore to the
magnificent harbor of Shippigan, the port of refuge of the Canadian
and American fishing fleets. The fare to Caraquet and return is $2.25.
This harbor is very peculiarly situated at the extremity of a cape which
thrusts itself far out into the gulf. It occupies an important point in
a scheme known as the ocean ferry, by which it is proposed to shorten
the transatlantic passage. The idea is to run a fast express between
New York and Shippigan, swift steamers from Shippigan across the
Gulf of St. Lawrence to St. George's Bay in Newfoundland, thence
fast express again across Newfoundland to St. John's, whence it is but
1,640 miles of ocean voyage to Valencia. This scheme is yet in nubi-
bus, and may remain so ; but just beyond Shippigan lies the wide flat
island of Miscou, whose shooting-grounds are perhaps the best in the
Dominion. The seasons are August and September for plover, Sep
tember, October, and November for geese, ducks, and brant. The
shooting privileges of Miscou are held by Lee Babbitt, Esq., of Fred
ericton, who may be addressed on the subject. Miscou Island is about
20 miles in circumference, and is reached by boat from Caraquet. The
distance between Caraquet and Gloucester Junction by rail is about 50
miles. The district about Shippigan was once a favorite resort of the
walrus. Between Gloucester Junction and the town of Newcastle on the
Miramichi, a distance of 39 miles, we pass but three stations, namely,

128 THE RESTIGOUCHE TO MONCTON.
Red Pine, Bartibogue. and Beaver Brook. Newcastle is at the head of
deep water navigation on the Miramichi. It is a ship-building center,
with a population of between 2,000 and 3,000, and a considerable
trade in lumber and in canned and frozen fish. The chief hotel is the
Waverly. Five miles down the river, on the south shore, lies Chat
ham, the chief town of the gulf coast of New Brunswick. Almost
midway between them, on the same side of the river as Newcastle, is
the lumbering village of Douglastown. Chatham is about 12 miles
from the mouth of the Miramichi. Its population is nearly 6,000, its
harbor is safe and roomy, and its lumbering, fishing, and ship-building
interests are large. It is the terminus of the Northern and Western
Railway, which runs between Chatham and Fredericton, and it is the
see town of a Roman Catholic bishop. Between Newcastle and Chat
ham one may go by rail by way of Chatham Junction ; but much the
more direct and pleasant trip is by the steamers that ply on the river,
though as far as the scenery is concerned the Miramichi, in its lower
portions at least, has little to boast of. The view of Chatham is
dominated by the lofty piles of the Roman Catholic institutions St.
Michael's Cathedral and College, and the Convent and Hospital. The
chief hotels of Chatham aro the Adams House and Bowser's.
Besides the Miramichi itself, to be referred to presently, the trav
eler who halts at Chatham finds himself within convenient distance of
many fine fishing waters. It is a short drive to the Bartibogue, whose
wide shallow reaches abound in season with splendid sea-trout. It is
an easy stream to fish, and at the head of tide may be had good sport
with the striped bass. Stages run from Chatham to the famous Tabu-
sintac, "the place where two meet," a distance of 34 miles. As a trout-
stream this narrow river, full of pools, is almost unrivaled. The sea-
trout swarm up its waters, and run very large. A trip to the Tabu-
sintac is the great delight of Chatham anglers. Fifteen miles beyond
this river lies the Big Tracadie River, a broad, shallow stream well
stocked with salmon and trout, and running through a sandy region.
The district about the river is thickly settled with Acadian French,
whose farming and fishing are alike prosperous. The mouth of the
Tracadie, as of most streams flowing into the gulf along this coast, is
sheltered by a long, low, sandy island, forming a shallow lagoon. These
lagoons are frequented in the autumn by vast flocks of ducks, wild
geese, and brant. At Tracadie is the famous Lazaretto, an object of
most painful interest, where a colony of lepers is secluded and cared

THE RESTIGOUCHE TO MONCTON. 129
for. Some time in the course of last century a French vessel was
wrecked on this coast, certain of whose sailors were afflicted with the
virulent leprosy of the Levant. By close association and intermarriage
the disease spread rapidly among the Acadians, but it is. now being
stamped out by the precautions of the Government.
From Chatham excursion steamers run frequently down the river to
the settlements of Bay du Vin on the south shore and Burnt Church
on the north shore of Miramichi Bay. Both these settlements are on
small trout rivers. Burnt Church is the capital of the Micmac Indians,
and they gather to the spot in great numbers every summer on the
festival of St. Anne. They celebrate the festival with religious cere
monies, sports, and dances. Governor Gordon says, " I was surprised
by the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the
Greek peasantry." The Miramichi.
The Miramichi is the second river in the province, ranking next to
the St. John in size and importance. The head-waters of some of its
tributaries interlace with those of streams that flow into the St. John.
A short distance above Newcastle the river forks into what are known
as the Nor'west Miramichi and the Sou'west Miramichi, of which
the latter is really the main stream. The name is Micmac, and means
" the happy retreat." The Sou'west Branch is the more thickly set
tled, and its valley is traversed by the Northern and Western R. R. as
far as Boiestown. The course of the river, as of most of its tribu
taries, is comparatively unbroken, and offers every facility for both
fishing and canoeing. The Nor'west Branch is more difficult of access
and has perhaps fewer first-rate salmon-pools. Nearly all these waters,
however, are justly renowned for trout and salmon. Particularly
famous are such tributaries as the Big and Little Sevogle, the Renous,
and the Dungarvan ; and in the latter stream, owing to the rigid sup
pression of poaching, the fish become yearly more numerous. Perhaps
the most famous salmon-pools are those on the upper waters of the
Sou'west Branch, above Boiestown, at the mouths of Burnt Hill Brook,
Rocky Brook, and the Clear Water. For information as to fishing
privileges in New Brunswick generally, one would do well to communi
cate with the Commissioner for the Province, J. Henry Phair, Esq., of
Fredericton. An excellent canoe trip may be made by ascending the
river St. John by steamer, canoe, or rail some distance above Woodstock

130 THE RESTIGOUCHE TO MONCTON.
and portaging over by a short carry to the head of the Sou'west Branch,
whence the run'is easy all the way to Chatham.
A good deal of history has been made on the lower portion of the
Miramichi and about its mouth. The early settlers were usually unfor
tunate in their relations with the Indians. An interesting point is
Beaubair's Island, at the confluence of the Nor'west and Sou'west
Branches. Here once stood a flourishing French town, most of whose
inhabitants perished by disease and famine in 1758. The destruction
of the town was completed by a British fleet in 1759, and now its site
is woods and picnic-grounds. In October, 1825, the greater portion of
the river valley was visited by an awful calamity which occupies a very
prominent place in New Brunswick history under the name of Tlie
Great Miramichi Fire. This conflagration destroyed 3,000,000 acres
of forest and 160 human lives. Those who escaped only saved them
selves by taking refuge in the lakes and rivers. The catastrophe is
thus described by Dr. Bryce :
For two days preceding the 7th of October, 1825, the air had been
intensely close ; there was a dead calm. Toward evening a rumbling
sound was heard, then a breeze, and last a hurricane bringing flames,
cinders, ashes, and hot sand, so that simultaneously several hundreds
of square miles were wrapped in one blaze. The town of Newcastle was
swept, away almost entirely. Vessels in the river were cast ashore and
a number burned. Hundreds of men, women, and children were over
taken in the flames and perished. The Governor-General advanced
upward of £2,000 for relief, which was cheerfully assumed by Lower
Canada, Nova Scotia appropriated £750, and military stores to the
value of many thousands of pounds were sent 'to the miserable sur
vivors. The Intercolonial crosses the Miramichi above the forks by two
fine bridges. Between Newcastle and Kent Junction it passes the small
stations of Derby, Chatham Junction, Barnaby River, and Rogersville.
At Kent Junction the Kent Northern R. R. may be taken for the quiet
little town of Richibucto, the capital of Kent County, near the mouth
of the Richibucto River. The neighborhood is interesting to tourists
chiefly for the typical Acadian town of St. Louis, with its sacred well
and grotto, 7 miles by rail from Richibucto. The fine summer hotel of
Richibucto, known as " The Beaches," is now closed. The name Richi
bucto means " the river of fire," and was applied not only to the river
but to a fierce tribe of savages that dwelt upon its shores. In 1724
this tribe, under the leadership of their chief, the Great Wizard, made

THE RESTIGOUCHE TO MONCTON. 131
an expedition to Canso and captured seventeen Massachusetts vessels.
With this fleet they were sailing homeward in triumph when they were
overtaken by two ships of war which had been sent in pursuit of them
from Boston. In the strange sea-fight that followed the Indians fought
desperately, but were defeated and slain to a man. After leaving Kent
Junction we pass the stations of Weldford, Adamsville, Coal Branch,
Canaan, and Berry's Mills, in the run of 45 miles which brings us to the
city of Moncton. Moncton.
Moncton is important as a railway center. It is a prosperous
and rapidly growing town of about 7,500 inhabitants, but is not a
pretty town as regards either its situation or its buildings. It has a
sugar refinery, cotton-factory, and the works and offices of the Inter
colonial R. R. It lies in a flat, inexhaustibly fertile farming region at
what is known as " The Bend " of the Pedilcodiac River, a remarkable
tidal stream flowing into the Bay of Fundy. The extreme variation
between high and low tide sometimes reaches 70 ft. ; and the flood
tide sweeps up the channel in a foaming wall of water from 4 ft.
to 6 ft. high, which is known as the Bore of the Petitcodiac. The
shores of all these tidal rivers emptying into the Bay of Fundy are
lined with vast breadths of salt meadows, consisting of an alluvial de
posit of wonderful depth and inexhaustible fertility. They are re
claimed from the sea by an elaborate system of dikes, and produce
fabulous crops of hay. There are several good hotels in Moncton, of
which the best is the Brunswick, formerly the Weldon House ; rates,
$2 per day. From Moncton a new railway runs to the town of Buelouche
(famous for its oysters), a distance of 32 miles. Return tickets cost
$1.50. The chief hotel at Buctouche is the Bay View.
Routes from Moncton,
In the way of choice of routes from Moncton the traveler now ex
periences an embarras de richesses. If he wants to do New Brunswick
thoroughly before going outside of the province, his best route is
follows : By Intercolonial (western section) to St. John ; thence
the river St. John to Fredericton, Woodstock, Grand Falls, and the I
fishing districts of the Tobique, Green River, and the Squattoctcs.
From Woodstock or Fredericton by rail to St. Stephen, Si. Andrj,
Campobello, and the lovely region of Passamaquoddy ; thence by Boat

132 ROUTES FROM MONCTON.
or the cars of the Grand Southern back to St. John. From St. John
one may cross the Bay of Fundy to Digby and thence up the far-famed
Annapolis Valley, through the land of Evangeline, by the Windsor and
Annapolis R. R. to Halifax. From Halifax as a center one may
conveniently do the eastern end of the province, with Prince Edward
Island, Cape Breton, and the far-off ancient colony of Newfoundland;
then, when ready to set his face for the land of the eagle, he may take
the splendid steamer City of Halifax, of the Canada Atlantic Line, for
Boston. This latter is a luxurious and delightful voyage, skirting
the bold Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia and avoiding the choppy seas of
the Bay of Fundy mouth.
Another good route is to retrace one's steps from St. John to
Moncton after having finished the western portion of New Brunswick.
If one intends to do Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, it will be
best to follow the main line of the Intercolonial from Moncton to
Sackville, and thence across the Isthmus of Chignecto to Amlierst,
where one may visit the famous Chignecto Ship R. R. From Amherst
he will return by Intercolonial, a distance of 40 miles, to Painsec
Junction, whence a branch line runs to the charming little watering-
place of Shediac, where there is unrivaled sea-bathing in the warm
waters of Northumberland Strait. From Shediac one goes by boat to
Summerside, in Prince Edward Island ; thence by rail down the island to
the city of Charlottetown, its capital ; thence by boat again to Pictou,
Nova Scotia, and by rail from Pictou to Mulgrave, where we cross the
Gut of Canso into Cape Breton. After having tasted the fishing and
scenery of Cape Breton, then back by rail to Pictou and Truro, and on
to Halifax. By this course one misses the country between Amherst
and Truro along the line of the Intercolonial, which is, however, neither
beautiful nor historic, but interesting mainly for its great coal-mines
and iron-works at Spring Hill and Londonderry. The latter town,
however, may be visited by a short run from Truro, and the former by
the Spring Hill R. R. from Parsboro on Minas Basin. Having reached
Halifax by this route a traveler may then take the Windsor and An
napolis R. R. to Digby, making, if he will, a detour from Middleton by
the Nova Scotia Central to Bridgewater and Lunenburg on the Atlan
tic coast. From Digby he may cross the bay to St. John and thence
to Boston either by rail or by the splendid coast steamers of the
International Steamship Co. ; or he may take the direct steamer, which
runs in summer only, from Annapolis and Digby to Boston ; or he

MONCTON TO ST. JOHN. 133
may do still better and go by the Western Counties R. R. to the city of
Yarmouth, at the extreme southwest corner of Nova Scotia, and thence
by one of the fine new steamers of the Yarmouth Line — the Yarmouth
or the Boston — by « pleasant ocean voyage of sixteen hours to the
metropolis of New England.
From Moncton to St. John.
From Moncton to St. John, a distance of 89 miles, the Intercolonial
runs for the most part through a rich farming country, and, as we ap
proach St. John, we catch many beautiful views from the car-windows
The fare to St. John is $2.67; return, $4. At Salisbury, 13 miles
from Moncton, the Intercolonial is joined by the Albert R. R., which
runs 45 miles through the small fishing and ship-building villages of
Albert County to its terminus on Shepody Bay, an inlet of the Bay of
Fundy. Hillsboro is an important village on this line, and has a heavy
plaster trade. At Albert Mines was once procured the most valuable
species of coal which the world has known. This mineral, called At
bertite, fetched enormous prices ; but the supply is now exhausted, and
the village is falling to decay. The coast villages of Albert County
are largely engrossed in the shad-fisheries. The peak of Shepody
Mountain, called originally "Chapeau Dieu" from its crown of clouds,
commands a truly sublime view. The region it overlooks is rich in
minerals and game.
Five miles from Salisbury is the village of Pollctt River, with good
trout-fishing and fine scenery at Pollett Falls. Five miles farther we
come to the important village of Petilcodiac (chief hotels, Mansard
House and Central) in a district settled by Dutch loyalists from Penn
sylvania. Not far from Petitcodiac are the famous fishing waters of
Canaan River. Leaving Petitcodiac we pass small stations with the
picturesque names of Anagance, Penobsquis, and Plumweseep. Then
we reach the growing town of Sussex, the center of the rich agricultural
district of Sussex Vale, which contains the head-waters of the lovely
Kenncbecasis, and was settled by loyalists from New Jersey. Between
Sussex and Hampton, a distance of 21 miles, we pass the stations of
Apohaqui (famous for its mineral waters), Norton, Bloomfield, and
Passekeag. Between Norton and Apohaqui a new railroad runs north
ward across the Washademoak through the coal regions at the head of
Grand Lake. Hampton is a growing town on the Kennebecasis, 22

134 MONCTON TO ST. JOHN.
miles from St. John, and is a favorite summer resort for the people
of that city. From Hampton the St. Martin's and Upham R. R. runs
about 30 miles southeast to the small town of St. Martins or Quaco
on the Bay of Fundy. Quaco is one of the chief ship-building centers
in the province; its harbor is exceedingly picturesque, and is sur
rounded by lofty cliffs of sandstone. The promontory of Quaco Head
is an important landmark to Bay-of-Fundy navigators. Not far from
the town of Quaco are Tracy's Lake and Mount Tlieohald Lake, famous
for their trout.
Between Hampton and St. John the Kennebecasis opens out into a
deep and wide estuary of the river St. John, with both shores fringed
with wooded uplands in which nestles many a quiet village. The sum
mer climate about this beautiful water is, like its boating and its bath
ing, not to be surpassed. After passing the stations of Nauwidgewauk,
Model Farm, and Quispamsis we come to the lovely little town of
Rothesay, where many of St. John's wealthy citizens have their summer
homes. Rothesay Hall is a good summer hotel. Across the wide water
of the Kennebecasis from Gondola Point lies the secluded and beauti
ful village of Clifton, famous for its strawberries. Leaving Rothesay,
the train skirts the Kennebecasis, passing the stations of Riverside,
Torryburn, and Brookville. On the farther shore, across from Torry-
burn, is the peculiar cliff called the "Minister's Face." Torryburn
House stands near the famous Kennebecasis Rowing Course. Between
Torryburn and St. John, on what is known as the Marsh Road, is the
race-course of Moose-pcdh Park. A few miles east of Torryburn, toward
the coast, lies the favorite fishing resort of Loch Lomond, with good
shooting in the neighborhood. Loch Lomond properly consists of three
lakes, and in their waters may be caught not only the ordinary brook-
trout, but what is known as the white trout. Bunker's and Dalzell's
are hotels on the lake. The railway keeps along the river shore to
within 2 or 3 miles of the city, when it leaves the water and runs
through a marshy valley, through the manufacturing suburb of Cold-
brook, and into the splendid new Intercolonial station at St. John.
St. John.
The population of St. John (estimated) is 50,000. The chief hotels
are the Dufferin, Royal, and Victoria ; rates from two to three dollars
a day. Horse-cars (fare 5 cents) traverse the principal streets. The
city is well supplied with hacks — fare 30 cents between depot and

ST. JOHN. 135
hotels, 50 cents per half-hour. Opera-House, the Academy of Music.
Chief club, the Union. The ferry and bridge tolls, for carriage, are
15 and 20 cents respectively each way. The ferry leaves every fifteen
minutes from the foot of Princess St. The up-river steamers of the
Union Line leave Indiantovm daily for Fredericton at 9 a. m. The
steamer of the Bay of Funday leaves for Digby and Annapolis at
8 a. M., daily in summer; Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays in
winter. The steamers of the International S. S. Co. leave at 8 a. m.
on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays during the summer months.
During the winter they run one and sometimes two steamers a week.
On Wednesdays and Saturdays the Fawn leaves Indiantown at 8 a. m.
for Grand Lake.
The city of St. John, the commercial metropolis of New Brunswick,
has a population of a little less than 50,000, and ranks as the fourth city
of the Dominion. As a ship-owning center she heads the list. St. John
is a creation of the United Empire Loyalists. The site of the city is
historic ground. The first settlements at the mouth of the St. John
River were made by the French early in the seventeenth century. The
most stirring episode in the early history of the spot is that of the feud
between Charles La Tour, who had a fort at the head of St. John Har
bor, and his rival D'Aulnay Charnisay, who had his headquarters across
the bay at Port Royal. Trading with the Indians, and fishing and
hunting, Charles La Tour prospered in his fort in the St. John's
mouth. The story of the disasters that at length overtook him has
been thus told by the present writer in another work :
"But La Tour's chief good fortune lay in the possession of a
woman, who appears to have been in all ways the fit wife for a man
of his stamp. Her ability, no less than his own, contributed to his
prosperity, and losing her he lost also, for the time, all his life-long
efforts had availed to gain. It was through the vindictive jealousy
of La Tour's brother-lieutenant in Acadia, D'Aulnay Charnisay, that
an end came to these fair prospects. Holding undisputed authority
over half the territory of Acadia, Charnisay had no joy in his pos
sessions while his hated rival was in prosperity near him. Craving
the rich trade that flowed through the post on the St. John, and
conscious of his strength at the court of France, he was soon in open
hostilities against La Tour in Acadia, and intriguing against him at
Versailles. As a result La Tour was charged with treason, and
Charnisay was authorized to seize and hold him for trial. But La
Tour was behind his walls and secure in the justice of his cause. He
mocked at the royal mandates and made ready for a struggle. The
city of Rochelle came promptly to his assistance, while Charnisay drew
re-enforcements from Paris. In the spring of 1643 Charnisay suddenly,
with a large force, blockaded the mouth of the St. John. Supplies

136 ST. JOHN.
were low in the fort, and a ship was daily expected from Rochelle.
When this arrived it was signaled to keep at a safe distance ; and one
cloudy night a boat slipped silently out of the harbor upon the ebb
tide. Invisible in the gloom along the Carleton shore and beneath
the rocky heights of Partridge Island, it passed under the very guns of
the blockading ships, and La Tour and his wife were off for Boston in
the Rochelle vessel. The next development of the situation was the
appearance of La Tour in the hai bor, at the head of five New England
ships ; and Charnisay was driven across the bay to Port Royal, and
sharply punished on his own ground. Again he essayed the attack,
closely investing Fort La Tour in the hope of starving its defenders
into submission. But from two spies, who, in the disguise of friars,
had succeeded in penetrating the fort, only to be unmasked by Lady
La Tour and contemptuously dismissed unpunished, he learned that
La Tour was absent, and that the post was under command of his
wife. Expecting an easy and speedy victory, he straightway ordered
an assault, but was met unflinchingly by Lady La Tour at the head of
the garrison, and obliged to draw off writhing with shame. But when
La Tour was again away on a trading expedition his enemy returned
and found the garrison weak. For three days his assaults were re
pulsed, but through the treachery of a sentry he at last gained an
entrance. Even then the brave woman did not yield, but met him so
intrepidly at the head of her faithful handful that the dastard offered
honorable terms of capitulation. She accepted them, to save the lives
of her brave followers. No sooner had the articles been signed, and
the garrison laid down their arms, than Charnisay hanged every man
of them but one, whom he forced to act as executioner to his com
rades ; and Lady La Tour he led to the gallows with a halter round
her neck, and compelled her to witness the execution. Her home
destroyed, her husband ruined and in exile, and the horrible fate of
her followers ever present in her memory, Lady La Tour's health
gave way and she died within a few months. This story has been
made the subject of a spirited ballad by Whittier."
From the days of La Tour to 1763 the mouth of the St. John was
the scene of several naval encounters between French and English. In
the latter year the territory of northern Acadia, now New Brunswick,
was finally ceded to England. Three years earlier Mr. James Simonds
had started fisheries on the harbor, but had been driven away by the
Indians. In 1764, however, with Mr. James White, Captain Peabody,
and a party of fishermen, he repeated his attempt, and succeeded in
establishing a little settlement. In 1775, during the American Revolu
tion, an expedition of Americans from Maine plundered the village and
destroyed the old French fort. Then in the gray morning of May 18,
1783, took place the " Landing of the Loyalists " ; and on the grim
peninsula of gray rock arose, as it were in a night, a city of nearly

ST. JOHN. 137
5,000 inhabitants. Its first name was Parrtown, which, fortunately, was
soon discarded for the present more dignified and musical appellation.
The nursling of the waters and the fogs, St. John has found her
most relentless adversary in fire. In 1837 she suffered from this
scourge the loss of over a hundred buildings ; and thereafter like
calamities fell upon her from time to time, till the climax was reached
in the great fire of June 20, 1877, which wiped out a full third of the
city. This catastrophe has been described elsewhere by the present
writer, as follows :
Nine hours sufficed for the swallowing of 1,612 buildings in the
fiery vortex. The rocks held and multiplied the furious heat till the
streets glowed as a furnace, and the most massive structures of granite
crumbled to powder, melting away swiftly like hoar frost. The smoke
was vomited up to the tops of the steeples, and there, driven on a level
before the wind in rolling surges, formed a lurid roof which shut in
the perishing city. The ships in the harbor were many of them burned
before they could escape from their moorings. Coals and hot ashes
were rained upon the villages miles about. In Fredericton, 84 miles
distant, the sky to the southeast was like a wall of hot copper until
daybreak. When the flames died out along the water's edge, all the
city south of King Street had gone down. In a day or two the centers
of the streets and open squares were cool ; and as one walked, ankle-
deep in the soft, white ashes, at early morning, the scene was one of
most weird and desolate grandeur. The sun shone over the dazzling
ripples of the bay, over the silvered and soundless spaces which had
been streets, and against the unclouded blue the thin smoke-wreaths
rising from the cellars and masses of ruin took a soft saffron color.
Here and there stood bleak, tall chimneys, red and black and gray,
or thin fragments of high walls, loop-holed and ragged. At intervals
the silence was broken by the crash of some masonry that had held
itself up through the stress of the trial and now toppled reluctantly to
its fall. In the center of the squares, and in the open country about
the city, were hundreds of tents and sorry cabins, wherein reigned
a sort of sullen tumult ; and in spots a louder excitement, with piles of
bottles and flasks close in view, testified that some treasures had been
recovered out of the ruin by the endeavor of willing volunteers. On
the site of one isolated liquor-store, the debris of which still glowed
most fervidly, stood a pitiable old figure poking, with a long-handled
rake, among the ruins, his eyes gleaming with delight whenever an un
broken bottle was resurrected. St. John received prompt and liberal
aid in her calamity, and rose from her fall with an energy and vitality
that were marvelous. All that had been laid waste was rebuilt with
added splendor, and the new city will compare more than favorably in
its architecture with cities many times its size. But even yet, with so
much of her capital locked up in costly blocks, she feels too vivid re
minders of that grievously staggering blow.

138 ST. JOHN.
In 1889 the city of St. John and the adjoining city of Portland were
united under one civic government — a step which has given a great im
pulse to the city's prosperity. The harboi1 of St. John is perfectly
sheltered and kept clear of ice in the severest winters by the tremen
dous Fundy tide and the great current of the St. John River. It is
always thronged with shipping of all kinds, from the stub-nosed wood-
boats — and the little red tugs that rush hither and thither with a great
black scow on each arm, as it were — to the stately square-rigged ships
that trade around Cape Horn, and the great iron steamers that carry
lumber across the Atlantic. Occupying a high, rocky peninsula,
crowned with spires, the city shows up admirably as one approaches it
by water. As the artists say, it composes well. Behind it lies the
broad, shallow, empty expanse of Courtney Bay, across which we see
the grim pile of the Penitentiary. The city is remarkable for its sober
coloring. All is gray stone or brownish-gray wood, producing a color
effect which is good under a clear sky, but dismal enough when the fog
has rolled its dense curtain over the city, to hang, sometimes, for days
together, and touch the complexions of the St. John women with that
bright yet delicate bloom for which they are renowned. There is much
to be said in favor of the fog ; but most depressing is the deep, sepul
chral voice of the fog-horn at the harbor mouth, whose periodic note
seems to issue « ith painful effort from a throat which the fog is chok
ing. About the head of the harbor, where all available space by the
water's edge is occupied by shrieking saw-mills, the bank sweeps in a
lofty ridge till it seems to meet the Carleton shore. Carleton is a dingy
and busy and superlatively rocky suburb of St. John, occupying the
western side of the harbor.
One of the most effective streets in Canada is King Street, St. John.
Truly magnificent in its breadth, and lined on both sides by fine shops,
it climbs straight up a steep hill from the harbor, and terminates in
the dark foliage of King Square. At its water-foot is " Market Slip,"
where, at low tide, a flock of wood-boats, fishing-smacks, and small
schooners, are gathered on the long, black slope of ooze. Next in im
portance to King is Prince William Street, running southward at right
angles to it to the water's edge at Reed's Point. On Prince William
Street are many fine buildings, chief of which is the splendid Custom-
House, the finest building of the sort in the Maritime Provinces. It is
built of a rich-toned sandstone, from the quarries near Dorchester.
The Post-Office, City Hall, and Banks of New Brunswick and Montreal

ST. JOHN. 139
are exceedingly handsome new buildings, all put up since the fire.
Near Prince William, on the corner of Germain and Princess Sts.,
stands the handsome new building of St. John's chief club, the Union.
On Germain St., and extending through to Charlotte, is the magnifi
cent pile of Trinity Church, built of a light-gray stone, and rendered
doubly effective by the long and steep approach that leads to its main
entrance. In the steeple is a remarkably fine chime of bells. Near by
is Queen Square, commanding a lovely view seaward, and faced by some
stately private residences. Just off this square is a veritable palace of
gray stone, the home of one of St. John's wealthiest merchants. This
building, in its simple, massive, and harmonious proportions, is, per
haps, from an architeotual point of view, the best private house in
Canada. A little east of the square is the Wiggins Male Orphan In
stitution, a really beautiful structure of red and gray sandstone. By a
short walk southward, toward the water, we reach the spacious Military
and Exhibition Grounds, formerly occupied by British troops, but now
the resort of cricketers and ball-players.
King Square, already mentioned, is the most popular of the city's
breathing-places. Its three acres are set with shade-trees, and in the
center plays a fountain. Just beyond and adjoining it is the old Bury-
ing-Ground, whose tombstones are of interest to the antiquarian and
the searchers of epitaphs. North of King St., between Germain and
Charlotte, lies the fine, spacious building of the city market. On
Charlotte St. also is the Young Men's Christian Association building,
whose library and reading-room are open from nine in the morning
till ten at night. At the head of Germain Street, on an imposing site,
stands the old Stone Church, and close beside it Calvin Church and the
wooden building of the Mechanics' Institute. Some distance east from
King Square, on Waterloo St., stands the Roman Catholic Cathedral,
the largest church in New Brunswick. This is a beautiful structure in
pointed Gothic, built in a striking combination of freestone and marble.
Its spire soars magnificently over the surrounding buildings. The in
terior is massive and severe, and the stained-glass windows are exceed
ingly good. The length of the cathedral is 200 ft. and its width at the
transepts 110 ft. Over one of the great doors is a fine marble bas-relief
of the Last Supper. Adjoining the cathedral are the Bishop's Palace
and the Orphan Asylum, on Cliff St., and on the other side the grim,
brick pile of the Nunnery. By way of Waterloo St. we reach the
conspicuous building of the General Hospital, which occupies the crest

140 ST. JOHN.
of a rocky hill, overlooking the valley by which the Intercolonial gains
access to St. John. At this point the valley is a deep and thickly-
peopled ravine dividing the main portion of the city from the lofty line
of Portland Heights, among whose barren rocks perch airily many
handsome villas, and the ambitious pile of Reed's Castle. In the
valley lie the skating-rink, the Owen's Art School, the brick Church of
St. Stephen, and the tall, wooden structure of St. Paul's, familiarly
known as the Valley Church. Besides the churches already mentioned,
there are a number of other handsome ecclesiastical structures in the
city. Conspicuous among the Portland Heights is the bald eminence of
Fort Howe Hill, surmounted by a battery of heavy guns, and command
ing a magnificent view of the city and harbor. On its naked slopes
one may conveniently observe the character of the rocks on which St.
John is built ; and one ceases to wonder that the hand of man has not
yet reduced St. John to a level. Many of the city streets, as it is, have
been blasted and hewn at great cost out of the solid rock, which in
many places towers high and black above the roofs, and greatly re
stricts the citizens' back yards. In walking about St. John one is
always going up or down hill — a circumstance which most visitors find
wearisome, but which perhaps accounts in some degree for the elastic
and well-balanced figures of St. John women.
Carleton, across the harbor from St. John, and reached by way of
the ferry, or the Suspension Bridge over the Falls, is interesting for its
Lunatic Asylum, its Martello Towers, its sea-bathing, and its unusual
ugliness. Far down the Carleton shore of the harbor stretches a long
line of rocky flats, left naked at low tide, and adorned with the long, pict
uresque gray lines of the herring-weirs. At the extremity of the flats
rises a lofty white structure known as " The Beacon," which resembles
at high tide a high-decked river steamer. A little way out beyond the
Beacon lies the black, steep mass of Partridge Island, the home of the
fog-horn and the lighthouse, and the bulwark that shields the harbor
from the rage of Fundy's waves.
The chief business of St. John is ship-building, and the snipping
of lumber and plaster ; but besides these industries it has large manu
facturing interests, particularly in iron castings, and the manufacture
of nails, boots and shoes, cotton, and cars and machinery. The city also
conducts important herring, gaspereaux, and shad fisheries. From the
port of St. John run steamship lines in every possible direction — across

ST. JOHN. • 141
the Atlantic ; along the American coast to Eastport, Portland, Boston,
and New York ; around the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia ; up the Bay
of Fundy to Parrsboro and Windsor ; up the river St. John and its navi
gable tributaries. Of these lines, those of special interest to the tour
ist are the International S. S. Co., whose splendid side-wheol steamers
run along the coast to Portland and Boston ; the Bay of Fundy S. S.
Co., whose fine steamer City of Monticello runs across the bay to Digby
and Annapolis ; and the Union Line, plying between St. John and
Fredericton. The railways centering at St. John are the Intercolonial,
the Canadian Pacific, and the Grand Southern.
Up the River St. John.
From St. John to Fredericton we may go comfortably and expe
ditiously by the trains of the C. P. R. R., a distance of 56 miles ; but
the tourist should go by boat to Fredericton, and there take the C. P. R. R.
for the upper portions of the river. To Fredericton by water the dis
tance is 84 miles, through such varied and beautiful scenery as has
earned for the river St. John the somewhat extravagant and mislead
ing appellation of the Rhine of America. The scenery of the St. John
possesses indeed diversity, breadth, and magnificence ; but it lacks the
" castled crags " which give their chief charm to the banks of the Rhine.
The steamers of the Union Line are the David Weston and the
Acadia, which leave St. John on alternate days. Both are comfort
able steamers, but the David Weston is much the finer and faster
boat, and the traveler will do well to await her day. Passengers are
taken aboard at the suburb of Indiantown above the Falls ; but at cer
tain times of the tide the steamer runs down through the falls to take
on freight at the city wharves. It is well worth one's while to find out
the hour, varying with the tide, at which the boat goes back to Indian-
town, and make the trip up through the gorge and beneath the bridges.
The fare by boat to Fredericton is $1 ; by rail $2, and return $3.
The gorge is spanned at its narrowest portion by a suspension
bridge and by a splendid new railway bridge built on the cantilever
system. Just above the bridges are the Falls.
This remarkable phenomenon was described as follows by the pres
ent writer in the pages of Picturesque Canada : This cataract is of
interest even to one satiated with cataracts. It is worth getting
up at daybreak to become acquainted with, for it stands almost alone

142 UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN.
among waterfalls in being reversible. At one time it falls in one
direction, in a few hours it is falling in the other direction. You go
away marveling. You return, of course, to settle the matter finally,
and behold, there is not a vestige of a fall. You look down from the
suspension bridge, and instead of a seething tumult of mad surges as
saulting the gray walls of the gorge, you see a placid surface, flecked
here and there with gently wheeling foam-bubbles. This peace is but
temporary ; it passes away swiftly. And it is not strange that vessels
on their way up river seek to catch this happy moment of mid-tide.
The whole volume of the great St. John River, which is nearly 500
miles long, and 4 or 5 in breadth half a dozen leagues above the city,
at this point finds its way to the sea through a deep ravine a couple
of stone-throws across, spanned by a suspension bridge. When the ebb
tide has emptied the harbor, the accumulated river-waters fall through
this ravine as through a mighty sluice-gate. As the tide returns the
fury of the escape is diminished, the river is gradually checked, till a
level is reached on either side of the great gate, and quiet reigns while
the antagonists take a breathing space. But soon the tremendous
Fundy tide overpowers the river, bears it down, and roars triumphing
through to brim the upper basin. Before it can accomplish much in
this direction, however, its retreat is ordered, and the recovering river
presses on its rear. This battle is fought twice every day ; and the
river is so far successful that it holds its freedom, and can never be
subjugated into a tidal river with drowned shores and banks of ooze.
The St. John is able to guard its narrow pass. Were the gate to be
thrown wide open, as are those of other rivers, the barbarous hordes
of the tide would overwhelm miles on miles of the low-lying center of
New Brunswick.
Leaving the wharf at Indiantown, and passing the high limestone
quarries of Boar's Head, we steam up through the narrows, whose pre
cipitous walls of many-colored rock -resemble, in all but hue, a some
what diminished bit of Saguenay scenery, though the deep river flowing
between them teems with traffic. The cliffs are jagged and splintered
and piled up magnificently ; and we recall the theory that the path we
are now following is not the outlet by which the St. John in old times
sought the sea. It is surmised that the river had anciently two mouths,
the one leading from Grand Bay through the low lands west of Carle
ton, the other from the Kennebecasis down through the " Valley " be
tween St. John and the Portland Heights. The present channel seems
to have been formed by a violent rending asunder of the hills, which
was probably accomplished by the same terrific convulsion which
raised all the coast west from St. John 30 ft. above its former level.
The Indians say that the Great Spirit once grew angry with the river
for its arrogance and closed the passes against it. They have another

UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN. 143
legend to the effect that a great beaver appeared upon the earth and in
one night built a dam across the outlet and drowned all the people of
the inland regions. The country about the mouth of the river (called
by the Etchemins " Oolastook " and by the Micmacs u Ouangondy ")
is rich in traditions of the demigod Glusk&p, who had his chief
abode here and called it Mcnagwes. MENAGWES.
GluBk£p, the friend and father of his race,
From Menagwes, his kindly dwelling-place,
With help in need went journeying three days' space;
And Menagwes, left empty of his arm,
Naked of that wise might, its shield from harm,
Leaned on his name and dreaded no alarm.
But evil spirits watched his outward path-
Such enemies a good man always bath—
And marked his fenceless dwelling for their wrath.
With shock of thunder and the lightning's slings,
And flame, and hail, and all disastrous things,
They came upon the tempest's midnight wings.
When home at length the hero turned again,
His huts were ashes and his servants slain,
And o'er the ruin wept a slow, great rain,
His own heart wept for sorrow; hut no word
He spent in wailing. With dread anger stirred
He cried across the sea— and the sea heard—
And sent great whales, that bare him from the strand,
And, bending to the guidance of his hand,
Made swift and sure his path to Newfoundland.
In vast morass, and misty solitude,
And high cliff-cavern lurked the evil brood,
Mocking at vengeance in derisive mood.
But scarce the hero's foot had touched the coast
When horror seized on all the wizard host,
And in their hiding-places hushed the boast.
He towered before them, gathering like a cloud
That blackens day; and when their fear grew loud,
His vengeance came about them like a shroud.
Then seeing that his utmost vengeance kept
No spell to break the sleep his servants slept,
Glusk&p returned to Menagwes and wept.

144 UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN.
The St. John River, so called by Champlain because it was dis
covered on St. John's Day, 1604, has a course of about 450 miles, of
which the lower 225 miles lie within the province. It is navigable to
Fredericton, 84 miles from the mouth, and for light-draught stern-
wheel steamers 75 miles farther, to Woodstock. It receives a number
of large tributaries, and drains a highly fertile farming and timber
country. About 3 miles above Indiantown our steamer emerges from the
narrows into the 9-miles-broad expanse of Grand Bay On our right,
between two high and rounded headlands, lies the mouth of the Kenne
becasis, on whose splendid rowing-course took place the famous boat-
race between the " Paris crew," of St. John (so called from its con
quest of the world's championship at Paris), and the Tyne crew, from
the north of England — a struggle in which Renforth, the stroke of the
Tyne crew, lost his life. Behind us, to the left, stretches the ample
basin of South Bay, ever crowded with rafts and set about with saw
mills. As we cross Grand Bay the river shores again draw together. In
the fresh light of the morning wonderfully beautiful is the contrast
between the high shores of vivid green, dotted with glittering white
farm-houses, the fringing yellow beach, and the deep blue of the
ruffled river. Soon after passing the landing-place, called Brundage's,
we enter the Long Reach where, for a, distance of 20 miles, the river
pursues an almost straight course between high shores from 3 to 5
miles apart. These shores consist of beautiful rounded hills, some
cultivated, some richly wooded, diversified by fairy valleys and sleepy
villages and bits of meadow. The magnificent expanse of the river is
dotted with the sails of wood-boats, yachts, and schooners ; and there
are usually several little steamers in sight, busy hauling rafts of logs
to the saw-mills. As we near a point of land a boat puts out to meet
us, and the steamer, with a hoarse whistle, slackens speed. As the
boat approaches, its bow high out of water, we see that it is propelled
by a solitary waterman, and carries in its stern a woman, dressed in her
best, and holding an ancient, black parasol over herself and a box of
codfish, which latter is probably a consignment for some secluded
grocery farther up stream. Vigorously our paddles reverse as the little
craft closes in perilously beneath our high, white side. Her bow is
grappled with the iron beak of a pike-pole, she is held firmly to the
gangway for a moment, .and codfish and female are nimbly transferred

UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN. 145
to our lower deck. In another minute we are once more throbbing
onward, while the skiff dances in our wake like an eccentric cork.
On the western shore of Long Reach, 17 miles from St. John, lies
the lovely summer resort of Westfield. Two miles farther is the land
ing of Greenwich Hill. Six miles beyond is Oak Point, a bamlet of
most unusual beauty. Between Greenwich Hill and Oak Point, on the
same shore, is the lofty wooded ridge called the Devil's Back. At the
head of the reach is a cluster of high, rocky islands covered with birch
and fir. The typical Island of St. John, of which we shall pass so many
that we may as well dispose of them all at once, is a large or small
fragment of alluvial meadow called "interval," fringed with aider and
Indian willow, and dotted with here and there a splendid elm, and here
and there a haystack. One of these islands which we shall pass is
little more than the bushy rim to a broad pool, where ducks and herons
chiefly congregate. " The Mistake " is a long, narrow peninsula much
resembling an island, and when the unwary navigator has traveled 2
or 3 miles up the inlet which separates it from tho western shore he
realizes vividly the appropriateness of the name. Just above the Mis
take, on the east shore, is the deep inlet of Belleisle Bay, a mile wide
and 14 miles long. An arm of this bay is Kingston Creek, at the head
of which among the hills lies the secluded and romantic village of
Kingston. Near Kingston is a remarkable little lake called Pickwaa-
keet, which occupies the_ crater of an extinct volcano. River landings
at which the steamer calls after leaving the village of Tennant's Cove
(29 miles) at the mouth of Belleisle Bay, are Wickham (32 miles),
Hampstead (36 miles), and Otnabog (41 miles), at the outlet of Otna-
bog Lake. Then we pass the Lower Musquash Island, behind which,
on the east shore, hides the deep mouth of the Washademoak, which is
a sort of a- compromise between a river and a lake, and has a rich
farming region about its shores. After passing the Upper Musquash
Island the steamer turns into a cove on the west shore and draws up
to the wharf of Gagetown, 50 miles from St. John. This sleepiest of
river villages is the shire town of Queen's County, and seems the exact
counterpart of Robert Buchanan's " Drowsytown " •-
" Oh, so drowsy 1 In a daze
Sweating 'mid the golden haze,
With its one white row of fetreet
Carpeted so gi e3n and sweet,
And the loungers smoking sflll
Over gate and window-sill ;
10

146 UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN.
Nothing coming, nothing going,
Locusts grating, one cock crowing,
Few things moving up or down,
All things drowsy— Drowsytown."
Leaving Gagetown the steamer heads down river a short distance
in order to round the foot of Grimross Island, and passes on the east
shore the mouth of the Jemseg River, which the inhabitants call the
" Jumsack." This deep, narrow, and sluggish stream is the outlet of
Grand Lake, a fine body of water 30 miles in length, surrounded by a
rich agricultural and coal-bearing region. The shores of the lake
abound in fossils. The Jemseg banks are clothed with historic asso
ciations. . In 1 640 a strong fort was erected at the mouth. This was
captured by an English expedition in 1654, but restored to the French
in 1670. In 1739 the Seigniory of Jemseg contained 116 inhabitants.
Under M. de Villebon it was made the capital of Acadia, an honor
which was afterward transferred to Fort Nashwaak, opposite the point
Of land now occupied by Fredericton. In 1776 an army of 600 In
dians gathered on the Jemseg, to lay waste all the settlements of the
St. John Valley ; but the firmness of the Oromocto settlers overawed
them, and they suffered themselves to be mollified with presents. A
little above Gagetown we enter the county of Sunbury, which once
comprised the whole of New Brunswick, but is now the smallest of her
counties. It is also the most fertile. Its low, rich meadows are cov
ered with water in the spring freshets, when the inhabitants move about
in skiffs, the row-boat instead of the carriage is brought to the front
door, the children explore in wash-tubs the farthermost recesses of
the farm-yard, and the farmer sets his nets for gaspereaux where a
little later he will be plowing and planting in a hot sun with no drop
of water in sight save what he carries in his tin bucket. Passing
Mauger's Island we see on our left the village church of Burton, on our
right the white walls of Sheffield Academy, now the County Grammar
School. A little beyond, on the right shore, lies the scattered village
of Maugerville behind its willows, the first English-speaking settlement
established in New Brunswick. It was planted in 1763 by pioneers
from the parishes of Rowley, Boxford, and Andover, in Massachusetts,
and speedily became a flourishing community. During the Revolution
the. inhabitants declared for the Americans, and all but twelve of them
signed resolutions repudiating Great Britain. Massachusetts sent them
arms and ammunition, and in an outburst of warlike fervor the Mau-

UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN. 147
gervillians organized an expedition against Fort Cumberland on the
Isthmus of Chignecto. There they found a schooner stranded on the
mud, and this easy prize they captured ; but the sight of the fort dis
mayed them, and they altered their intention of carrying it by storm.
The schooner they took away and sold. They were afterward oom-
pelled to make restitution to the vessel's owners ; but, this done, a
lenient Government indulgently overlooked their folly.
Just above Maugerville, on the opposite shore, lies the county town
of Sunbury, the village of Oromocto, at the mouth of the Oromocto
River. Here of old stood a fort for protection against the Indians.
The Oromocto is a deep and narrow stream, navigable for small craft
a distance of 22 miles. On its upper waters, and particularly in Oro
mocto Lake, there is excellent trout-fishing. In its lower reaches pick
erel abound. Off the mouth of the river lie Thatch Island and the great
meadowy expanse of Oromocto Island. Here we are 74 miles from St.
John and about 10 miles from Fredericton. Five miles farther up the
boat calls at the interminable booms of Glasier's, where logs from up
river are put together into rafts to be towed to St. John. Along toward
the middle of the afternoon we catch sight of the smoke which rises
over " The Mills," a mile below Fredericton. Then the river widens
out, and over its shining expanse we see the long bridges, the spires,
and the billowy foliage of the city of elms, Fredericton, which is called
by New-Brunswickers, in affectionate banter, the " Celestial City."
Fredericton.
The population of Fredericton (estimated) is 8,000. The chief hotels
are the Queen's and Barker House. Cab fares are 25 cts. for a course
within the city. The livery stables of Fredericton are good and much
patronized, and the charges very moderate. The fare between Freder
icton and St. John by boat is only $1. Fare by rail to Woodstock,
$2 ; Grand Falls, $3.80 ; Edmundson, $4.80 ; return, $3, $5.70, and
$7.20. Fare to St. Stephen, $3.15 ; St. Andrews, $3.25 ; return, $4.75
and $4.90.
The history of Fredericton begins at the mouth of the Nashwaak,
an important tributary of the St. John, which flows in immediately op
posite Fredericton. Hither in 1692 came Villebon, from the Jemseg,
to be nearer his Melicite allies. Here he built a large and well-stock
aded fort, which in the autumn of 1696 was attacked by the New-Eng-
landers, under Colonel Hawthorne and old Benjamin Church. Villebon,

148 FREDERICTON.
being forewarned, was forearmed. That redoubtable ecclesiastic, Father
Simon, brought thirty-six of his Medoctec warriors to swell the garrison,
and all was enthusiasm within the fort. The New -Englanders landed
with three cannon near the S. shore of the stream, on a point now much
frequented by the schoolboys of Fredericton in the cherry season.
Truly it is a charming spot, and its cherries are marvelously great and
sweet and abundant. But the New-Englanders found little pleasure
therein. The fire from the fort by day dismounted one of their guns,
and suffered them not to work the others with any degree of comfort,
while by night a plentiful hail of grape upon all such watch-fires as
they lighted drove them to sleep unwarmed and wet, whence came in
the morning much rheumatism and complaining. The undertaking
became unpopular in the invaders' camp, and, under cover of the next
night, they forsook it and fled. In the autumn of 1698 the garrison
was removed to Fort La Tour, which had been rebuilt at the mouth of
the St. John, and after Villebon's death in 1700 the Nashwaak fort
was demolished. Nothing now remains to remind us of those exciting
though uncomfortable times save some green mounds where once stood
Villebon's ramparts, or a few rust-eaten cannon-balls which the farmer
gathers in with his potato-crop.
In the year following the erection of New Brunswick into a province
the capital was, for strategic reasons, removed from St. John to what
was then known as St. Anne's Point, now Fredericton. For a long
while Fredericton was the headquarters of a British regiment. Now it
is the seat of a military school, and the post of a company of Canadian
regulars. Being a military, political, judicial, educational, and ecclesi
astical center, Fredericton was for a long time, from a commercial point
of view, rather unprogressive ; but within the last few years she has
begun to throw off her lethargy, and enlarge both her trade and her
population. She has become a railroad center, no fewer than four lines
radiating from this point ; and additional lines arc proposed, with every
prospect of their construction. She is the distributing point for a large
and rich agricultural section, the headquarters of an immense lumber-
trade, of cotton and leather manufacturing, and of extensive canning
operations. With a population of only about 8,000, Fredericton has a
disproportionate share of public institutions and fine buildings, and her
society derives special individuality and charm from the influences
which there concentrate themselves.
The streets of Fredericton are broad and level, overarched for the

FREDERICTON. 149
most part with elms of stately growth, and wearing generally an air of
quiet prosperity. The main business street is Queen St., running the
whole length of the city near the water front. One side of this street
is lined with shops. The other side has business houses on its upper
and lower blocks, but is occupied along its central portion by the Offi
cers' Square with its lawns and tennis-grounds and battery of little
cannon, the gray-stone buildings of the Officers' Quarters, the hand
some new Post-Office and Custom-House, the Barracks and Parade
Ground, the graceful red brick structure of the Provincial Normal
School, and the stiff brick block of' the new City Hall, with its clock-
tower over the front and a ludicrous little perky appendage, like a
rudimentary tail, sticking up on its rear. From just above the Post-
Office the long white structure of the passenger bridge runs across the
river to the suburban village of St. Mary's, on whose outskirts hangs
an interesting little settlement of Melicite Indians, some of whom are
famous hunters, guides, and canoc-men. Near the lower end of Queen
St., where it is joined by King and Brunswick, stands the beautiful little
Anglican cathedral of the diocese of Fredericton. This is a harmoniously
proportioned structure in pure Gothic, built of gray-stone with window-
casings of white Caen stone. It occupies the center of spacious triangular
grounds, beautifully wooded. Just below it the river is crossed by the
splendid steel bridge which connects the Canadian Pacific with the North
ern and Western R. R. at the busy village of Gibson on the opposite
shore. In the block above the Cathedral stand the new Parliament
and Departmental Buildings, taking the place of the old buildings
which were destroyed by fire. The main building is a handsome and
solid structure of freestone and light gray granite, which would be en
tirely satisfactory but for the attenuated dome which surmounts it and
much resembles a pepper-pot. In its rear is the fire-proof library,
containing an invaluable collection of the plates of Audubon's " Birds,"
once owned by Louis Philippe. On the side of the block facing St. John
St. is the handsome purple sandstone structure containing the Govern
ment offices. In winter, when the Provincial Parliament is in session,
this is a busy quarter of Fredericton.
At the extreme upper end of the city are the new Victoria Hospi
tal, and the severe stone pile of Government House in its spacious
grounds. Scattered through the city are many churches, of various de
nominations. The most noticeable of these are the handsome new stone
structures belonging to the Baptists and the Presbyterians, standing

150 FREDERICTON.
within a block of each other on York St. ; and the exquisite little parish
church, called Christ Church, on the corner of George and Westmore
land Sts. This edifice is of an Old English pattern, and carries a silvery
chime of three bells. Back of Fredericton rises a line of wooded
heights, whereon are some good private residences, and the massive
old building of the New Brunswick University, crowning a succession
of terraces. This was of old King's College of New Brunswick, estab
lished by royal charter in 1828, under the auspices of Sir Howard
Douglas. It is now a Provincial Institution, and is doing good work
under the management of President Harrison. From its cupola we
get a wide and lovely view. At our feet lies the city in its billows of
green, bounded by the broad and shining arc of the St. John. Above
and below extends the river, dotted in the one direction with islands,
in the otjier with the sails of wood-boats. Straight across opens
the fair Nashwaak Valley, with the village of Marysville in the dis
tance. Opposite the upper end of the city we mark the mouth of the
Nashwaaksis, or little Nashwaak, which boasts a pretty calaract some
10 or 12 miles from its mouth.
On the outskirts of Fredericton, half a mile above Government
House, stands a picturesque old mansion called " The Hermitage,"
which is rapidly falling to ruin. In the gay old days of British mili
tary and "family compact" rule, "The Hermitage" was a famous
social center. Now its deserted chambers are romantically supposed
to be haunted, and its spacious and well-wooded grounds are a favorite
resort of the city's picnic parties. Continuing on past The Hermitage,
a very lovely drive extends up the river shore some 4 m. or more to
the village of Springhill. Another interesting drive is across the
river to Gibson, and thence up the valley of the Nashwaak about 3
miles to the growing town of Marysville, the creation of the gigantic
cotton and lumber mills of Alexander Gibson. This trip may be made,
if one prefers, by the Northern and Western R. R., which runs through
the town on its way to the Miramichi and its salmon-pools. After the
vast cotton-mill, the chief point of interest in Marysville is the gor
geous little church erected by Mr. Gibson.
With all the beautiful and accessible waterways that surround it,
no wonder Fredericton is the very home of the birch-bark canoe. Her
inhabitants easily equal, and often excel, the Indians in the manage
ment of this fascinating little craft. An easy and charming canoe-
trip may be taken from Fredericton down the river to St. John, an

FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. 151
indolent voyage, with no fishing or hard paddling to do, and villages
all along the way to supply provisions.
Fredericton to Woodstock.
In spring and autumn, when the river is high, the " stern-wheel "
steamer Florenceville plies between Fredericton and Woodstock, a
distance of 60 miles. All the points of interest along this route will
soon be accessible by rail, as a line is under construction along the
western shore of the St. John. It traverses the populous settlements
of Prince William and Queensbury, peopled by descendants of dis
banded loyalist soldiers. The finest scenery on the trip is at the mouth
of the Pokiok River, by which the waters of Lake George find outlet
to tho St. John. The Pokiok Falls are about 40 ft. in height ; and
after this plunge the river roars and leaps through a gorge 1,200 ft. in
length, whose perpendicular walls, 75 ft. high, are less than 30 ft.
apart. The signification of Pokiok is " The Dreadful Place." Lake
George is somewhat renowned for its productive antimony-mines. Near
Pokiok is Prince William Lake, and a little beyond the Sheogomuc
Lake and River. At Canterbury the road crosses Eel River, the
outlet of Eel and North Lakes, from which a famous portage (whose
deserted paths are worn deep by the many Indian feet that trod them
of old) leads to the Chiputneticook Lakes and the St. Croix, and thence
to Passamaquoddy Bay. By this route went the troops of Villebon
many a time to ravage the New England borders. Five miles beyond
Eel River is the site of the old French fort Medoctec, beside the
rapids and Melicite village of the same name. This district was of
old the Seignory of the Sieur Clignancourt, and was held an important
center, owing to the necessity of making a portage at this point to
avoid the rapids. These, however, the steamer surmounts, as a rule,
without great difficulty. The approach to Woodstock, whether by land
or water, is picturesque and charming, the high, rounded hills being
well tilled and crowned with groves and cottages. Fare by boat,
$2.50. The best route to Woodstock at present, available at all seasons,
is by the C. P. R. R. from Gibson. Or we may take the train on the
Fredericton side, at the little temporary Bridge Station, soon to be re
placed by a union depot. A mile above the station we pass through
St. Mary's, already referred to, and 2 miles farther we cross the Nash-

152 FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK.
waaksis at Douglas Station. For the next 8 or 10 miles we get fine
views of river and islands from the car-windows, and at the mouth of
the Keswick River (called " Kissaway " by the dwellers on its banks) a
splendid expanse of interval country spreads before our eyes. From
this point the railroad climbs the pleasant Keswick Valley, passing a
number of unimportant stations. Upper Keswick is 28 miles from
Keswick. Beyond the road traverses a rather desolate-looking region,
till again it nears the rich St. John Valley at Newburgh. In the wilder
ness it crosses the Nackawic (43 miles from Fredericton) and Falls
Brook, both trout-streams. At Woodstock Junction a branch diverges
and runs down river a short distance to Woodstock, affording varied
and delightful views between the rounded hills. Over the high railroad
bridge we steam slowly into the progressive little town of Woodstock,
the shire-town of Carleton County, and the chief commercial center on
the river above Fredericton.
Woodstock has a good hotel in the Gibson House. The town is well
situated on the uplands at the junction of the Maduxnakeag stream
with the St. John, and has a rich farming country behind it supplying
a large local trade. Its 3,000 or so of inhabitants are plucky and enter
prising, and have recovered bravely from the losses to which they have
been subjected by numerous fires. Around the mouth of the Maduxna
keag is a cluster of saw-mills. A short distance above the town are the
now abandoned iron-mines, where a peculiarly dense and hard quality
of iron was formerly extracted. The village of Upper Woodstock is
familiarly and disrespectfully known as "Hardscrabble." The whole
district is peculiarly adapted to the growth of grain and fruit, and is
sometimes called " the orchard of New Brunswick." Twelve miles
distant, and reached by a section of the C. P. R. R., is the American
town of Houlton, in Maine. The Upper St. John.
To continue our journey up the St. John we recross the river and
retrace our way to Woodstock Junction, 6 miles distant. Passing
nartland (13 miles from Woodstock) and Peel (17 miles) we come to
the station of Florenceville (23 miles). The village lies across the
river, and is reached by a ferry. Its situation .is remarkably pictur
esque, on the wind-swept crest of a high ridge. A few miles southwest
of Florenceville rises Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. high,

THE UPPER ST. JOHN. 153
which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief
points of controversy during the old border troubles, and its summit
was cleared by the commissioners of 1794. Beyond Florenceville the
charm of the landscape deepens. The railway keeps close to the river.
From the village of Kent, 3 miles farther, where we cross the Shikiti-
hauk stream, a portage of 15 miles leads to the upper waters of the
southwest Miramichi. Guides and canoes for this trip may be engaged
in Fredericton. Passing Bath Station, and the Brook Munquauk, we
come to Muniac, 15 miles from Florenceville, where the Muniac stream,
descending through a rocky glen, brawls beneath the track. In this
neighborhood there is a peninsula jutting out from the river shore,
around which the channel makes a long detour, while the portage across
the isthmus is short and easy. The Melicites say that once upon a
time, when an army of their enemies was encamped on the shore op
posite the point, preparing to attack tho villages below, which had been
left defenseless while the braves were off on the war-path, a clever ruse
was practiced here which saved the villages. Six Melicite warriors, re
turning down river in their canons, discovered the invaders' camp and
took in the situation. First one canoe paddled swiftly down, keeping
to the safe side of the river. Then at a short interval came the second,
and after another brief space the third. Meanwhile the two Indians
in the first canoe, as soon as they were well out of sight around the
point, landed, carried their craft in haste across the portage, and cm-
barked again to repeat the performance. The other canoes did like
wise in their turn ; and this was kept up the greater part of the day,
till the hostile band, looking on with lively interest from the farther
shore, were so impressed with the numbers of the returning Melicite
warriors that they discreetly withdrew to seek some easier adventure.
At the little milling village of Perth, 49 miles from Woodstock, the
railroad crosses the river to Andover (51 miles), a village of 400 or 500
inhabitants. This is the headquarters for fishermen who are going to
make the Tobique trip. There is a snug and homelike country hotel
here, whose proprietor, Mr. J. A. Perley, will furnish information as to
guides, and so forth. A mile and a half above Andover, on the other
shore, comes in the Tobique, an important tributary, about 70 miles
in length, famous for its trout and salmon fishing. At its mouth is
a large Indian reservation, containing « prosperous Melicite village.
Somo of these Melicites are exceedingly intelligent and capable as
guides and canoe-men, and may be hired at from $1 to $1-J- a day.

154 THE UPPER ST. JOHN.
From the head of the Tobique one may portage to the Nepisiguit Lake
and descend the Nepisiguit to Bathurst. The Tobique trip will be
treated in detail in succeeding pages.
Four miles above Andover is Aroostook Junction, whence a branch
line runs 34 miles up the fertile Aroostook Valley to the Maine towns
of Fort Fairfield (7 miles from the Junction), Caribou (19 miles), and
Presque Isle (34 miles). These towns have each from 2,000 to 3,000
inhabitants. The district in which they lie is enormously productive,
and was the subject of the boundary dispute between New Brunswick
and Maine which nearly brought on a war between England and the
United States. Indeed, in the year 1839, there was a little outbreak
of hostilities between the province and the State most concerned. This
skirmish is known to history as the Aroostook war. Troops were called
out on both sides, and a band of Americans, who had gone into the
disputed territory to arrest alleged trespassers, were captured by a
party of New Brunswick lumbermen and their leaders carried captive,
on a horse-sled, to Fredericton. Maine called out her militia. Sir John
Harvey, the Governor of New Brunswick, summoned the provincial
troops and the few regulars within roach. Nova Scotia voted all her
men and all her revenues to the help of the sister province, and Upper
and Lower Canada made haste to send aid. There was excited oratory
at Washington, and (seeing that New Brunswick was but u, colony)
more temperate discussion at London, and finally war was averted by
the arrival on the scene of an English commissioner, who with easy
generosity yielded to the American commissioner, Mr. Webster, all New
Brunswick's claims ; and the Aroostook Valley, largely settled by New
Brunswickers, became American territory. By a similar piece of astute
British diplomacy Canada was deprived of broad and rich territories on
the Pacific coast as well. In the Aroostook country there is fine bear,
deer, moose, caribou, and duck shooting, and excellent fishing in the
Aroostook and Presque Isle Rivers and the Squawpan Lake. There is
also available from this point a good round trip through the Eagle
Lakes. From Aroostook Junction the main line follows the heights over
looking the river St. John to the village of Grand Falls, seated on a
high plateau 72 miles above Woodstock. The village, with its cool
airs and the really sublime scenery of the Falls and Gorge, has become
a popular summer halting-place. The Grand Falls Hotel is a good
hostelry, and there are also the American House and Glasier's Hotel.

THE UPPER ST. JOHN. 155
Through the village runs the street ambitiously named Broadway —
which is indeed so broad and grassy that it might be mistaken for a
meadow. Though the inhabitants are few — not more than 700 or 800
— there is stir in the village, caused by the busy geese and pigs. There
are several churches ; but the chief architectural distinction of the
village is the Grand Falls Hotel, already referred to, which, with its
pretentious front of tall, white, fluted pillars, suggests at first sight
that a Greek temple has captured a whitewashed modern barn and
proudly stuck it on behind.
The Grand Falls of the St. John.
In magnitude the Grand Falls of the St. John can not be compared
to Niagara; but in impressiveness of surroundings they will endure
the comparison. A little above the cataract the river loiters in a wide
basin, where boats from up stream make a landing. Then the shores
suddenly contract, and the great stream plunges into the gorge by a
perpendicular leap of 73 ft. At the foot of the fall, in its center,
rises a sharp cone of black rock on which the descending waters break
and pile up magnificently. The scene varies greatly with variations
in the height of the river. It is peculiarly awe-inspiring when the
logs are running through, and one may see mighty timbers shattered
into fragments, while others at times shoot high into the air in the fury
of their rebound. From the foot of the cataract the river is volleyed
off, as it were, with an explosive force that hurls huge foam-white
masses' of water into the air. The bottom of the terrific trough is
sometimes bared for a moment as the river sways madly up one or the
other of its imprisoning walls. The gorge is about a mile in extent,
and walled by contorted cliffs from 100 to 250 ft. in height. The
rocks are dark Upper Silurian slate, whose strata have been twisted
and turned on end, and their seams filled with white interlacing veins
of quartz. Throughout the extent of the gorge there are several lesser
falls, which are swallowed up in one roaring incline when the river is
at freshet. One descends into the gorge by a series of precipitous
stairs. On the wild and chaotic floor one may clamber some distance,
and visit " the Cave," whose jaws remind one of the mouth of a gigantic
alligator; one may get a near view of the curious "Coffee-Mill,"
. where a strange eddy, occupying a round basin beside the channel,
slowly grinds the logs which it succeeds in capturing as they dash

156 THE GRAND FALLS *0F THE ST. JOHN.
past. " The Wells " are a strange phenomenon, smooth, circular pits
several feet in diameter, bored perpendicularly deep into the rock, and
leading nowhither. It will take some days to exhaust the attractions
of the gorge. At its lower end, reached by a wonderfully picturesque
and precipitous road from the village, is the lovely, quiet expanse of
the Lower Basin, where logs are caught and made up into rafts for the
voyage down to Fredericton. At low water one may be poled in a
lumberman's " bateau " for a short distance up the gorge to the foot
of the towering cliff called Squaw's Leap, over whose face a small
stream falls silverly. Over this steep the Indians used to hurl their
victims. One of the best views of the cataract is obtained from the old
mill, which occupies a rocky ledge thrust out into the very face of the
fall. Here one is in the midst of the spray and the rainbows. Another
good view may be had from the Suspension Bridge, which swings from
crag to crag across the gorge a couple of hundred yards below the
falls. The spot has been the scene of many a tragedy. Lumbermen
have been sucked down, and never a trace of their bodies found there
after. The first bridge built across the gorge fell into the awful depths
with several teams upon it. The most heroic story, however, comes to
us from Melicite tradition. An invading army of Mohawks entered
the country by the head-waters of the St. John. Their object was to
surprise the chief village of the Melicites at Aukpak, far below Grand
Falls. Descending the upper reaches of the river, they took a little
village at the mouth of the Madawaska, whose inhabitants they slew
with the exception of two women, whom they saved to pilot them
down the river. The women guided them safely through some rapids.
Toward evening they told their captors that the river was clear of falls
and rapids for another day's journey, after which they would have to
make a portage. The Mohawks lashed together their fleet of canoes,
placed their captive guides in the middle, and resigned themselves to
the current. The falls are buried so deep in the gorge that, as you
approach them from up river their roaring is not heard until one is
close upon them. At the first sound of it some of the watchers in
quired the cause, but were assured by the captives that it was only a
tributary stream falling into the main river. As the fleet swept round
the point, and quickened for the plunge, and the full blast of the
cataract's thunder roared suddenly in their cars, the Indians sprang in
desperate horror to their paddles. But it was too late; and the

ABOVE THE GRAND FALLS. 157
women raised their shrill war-cry as they swept with their captors into
the. gulf, and saved their tribe.
Above the Grand Falls.
Just above Grand Falls the railway crosses once more to the right
bank of the river, and enters the Acadian French county of Mada
waska. About this point the river becomes the boundary-line between
the United States and Canada. Fourteen miles from Grand Falls is
the Acadian village of St. Leonard. Four miles beyond is the mouth of
Grand River, where one may begin a fine hunting, fishing, and canoe
ing trip. Guides and canoes may be brought from the Melicite village,
at the Tobique mouth, or they may be hired from one or another of the
Acadian settlements. The route lies by poling up Grand River to the
mouth of the Waagansis,and up that meager stream through dense
and interminable alders to its source in the water-shed dividing the
streams of the St. John from those of the Restigouche. A portage of
5 or 6 miles leads to the Waagan, a wretched stream down which one
forces his way till he comes out on the lovely and well-stocked wa
ters of the "Five-fingered River." On this trip the present writer
heard from his Indians the following picturesque legend, which may
be called a Melicite " Passing of Arthur " :
THE DEPARTING OF GLUSKAP.
It is so long ago ; and men well-nigh
Forget what gladness was, and how the earth
Gave corn in plenty, and the rivers fish,
And the woods meat, before he went away.
His going was on this wise :
All the works
And words and ways of men and beasts became
Evil, and all their thoughts continually
Were but of evil. Then he made a feast.
Upon the shore that is beside the sea
That takes the setting sun, tie ordered it,
And called the beasts thereto. Only the men
He called not, seeing them evil utterly.
He fed the panther's crafty brood, and filled
The lean wolf's hunger ; from the hollow tree
His honey stayed the bear's terrific jaws ;
And the brown rabbit couched at peace within
The circling.shadow of the eagle's wings.
And when the feast was done he told them all

158 ABOVE THE GRAND FALLS.
That now, because their ways were evil grown,
On that same day he must depart from them,
And they should look upon his face no more.
Then all the beasts were very sorrowful.
It was near sunset and the wind was still,
And down the yellow shore a thin wave washed
Slowly ; and GluskSp launched his birch canoe,
And spread his yellow sail, and moved from shore,
Though no wind followed, streaming in the sail,
Or roughening the clear water after him.
And all the beasts stood by the shore, and watched.
Then to the west appeared a long red trail
Over the wave ; and GluskSp sailed and eang
Till the canoe grew little like a bird,
And black, and vanished in the shining trail.
And when the beasts could Eee his form no more,
They still could hear him, singing as he sailed,
And still they listened, hanging down their heads
In thin row, where the thin waves washed and fled.
But when the sound of singing died, and when
They lifted up their voices in their grief,
Lo ! on the mouth of every beast a strange
New tongue ! Then rose they all and fled apart,
Nor met again in council from that day.
Thirty-one miles above Grand Falls we cross the rushing emerald
waters of Green River, which contrast sharply with the amber current
of the St. John. This is an unrivaled trout-stream in its upper waters,
but somewhat difficult of access, owing to the shoals and rapids that
obstruct its course. It is severe poling all the way up, and all the lat
ter part of the journey is through complete wilderness. The trout,
however, are large and very fierce, well worthy of the effort one must
make to get "them. Typically Acadian are the farm-houses, in their
fields of buckwheat and flax, along the lower course of Green River.
Governor Gordon has thus described tho home of the Madawaska
Acadian :
The whole aspect of the farm was that of a metairie in Normandy ;
the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a different
color from the frame ; the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare,
shining floor; the lasses at the spinning-wheel; the French costume
and appearance of Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, all car
ried me back to the other side of the Atlantic.
The town of St. Basil, 34 miles from Grand Falls, has nearly 2,000
inhabitants, an immense Roman Catholic church, and the Convent and

ABOVE THE GRAND FALLS. 159
School of the Sacred Heart. Six miles farther we cross the mouth of
the Madawaska River, and enter the little town of Edmundston, some
times called Little Falls, from the low cataract by which the Mada
waska, descending through a narrow ravine, plunges to meet the St.
John. The chief hotels of Edmundston are The Adams and the Hdtel
Bdbin. The Temiscouata R. R. runs 90 miles, along the Madawaska
River, Lake Temiscouata, and over the divide to Riviere du Loup. The
best view of Edmundston is obtained from the top of the old block
house. At this point the best of fishing waters lie all about us. Within
easy reach are the St. Francis, with its lakes Welastookawagamis,
PekaweekagOmic, Pohenegamook, well stocked and little fished.
Across the river is the round trip by the Eagle Lakes and Fish River
to the American village of Fort Kent. Tnto the Temiscouata Lake
flows the Cabineau, a noble trout-stream ; and the Tuladi, the outlet of
the Squattook and Tuladi chain of lakes.
Eoutes for tlie Sportsman.
One of the best round trips in New Brunswick, or, I should say, in
the Maritime Provinces, is what is known as the " Squattook trip " ;
much of which, indeed, lies in the province of Quebec. The route is
as follows : Take the canoes (either poling them up stream or putting
them on a flat car) up the Madawaska, 15 miles, to a place called Grif
fin's. Then portage 5 miles to the ugly little pool called Mud Lake,
with its desolate and fire-ravaged shores. From Mud Lake descend
Beardsley Brook (pronounced Bazzily), catching a few trout by the way,
and squeezing through many alder thickets, till the Squattook River
is reached. Run with thrilling speed down the rapids of this river, till
you come to Big Squattook Lake, where one should stop and fish at the
outlet. From this down there is fishing everywhere. Passing through
Second, Third, and Fourth Squattook Lakes — Second Lake known as
" Sugar-Loaf Lake," from the fine peak that overshadows it — the Mor
ton branch is reached, which should be ascended for the sake of the
wonderful abundance and good size of its trout. The Squattook River
enters the Tuladi Lakes, two almost contiguous sheets of wilderness
water, wherein the great lake-trout, called " Tuladi," are numerous,
and to be taken by trolling. Out of the lower Tuladi Lake flows the
Tuladi River, whereon are the Tuladi Falls, round which, except at cer
tain stages of the water, one must make a portage. The falls are just

160 ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN.
below the lake. Thence there is a clear run, with swift but not dan
gerous water, to Lake Temiscouata, which must be crossed to reach the
village of Detour du Lac. Here one may put up at Clouthier's Hotel,
if tired of camping. Temiscouata Lake is 30 miles long, 1J miles in
breadth, and remarkable for its depth. There is good fishing in its
waters at times, especially for the great gray trout called " togue " ;
but it is not as good a fishing water as the streams and smaller lakes
surrounding it. THE BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
The birch canoe of the Melicite is filled with mystery for the un
initiated, who may be known beyond a shadow of doubt by the way
they talk. If a man begins dilating on the perils of the bark canoe,
you may be assured at once that he is either totally ignorant of his
subject, or is making a bid for your admiration at the cost of truth
itself. I can not make you love the bark as I do — at least not through
these pages — but if you seek out Jim Paul at Fredericton he'll give
you a taste of the dreamy delight for a very small sum. Many men of
Fredericton who do not live in a hut and wear moccasins summer and
winter can not be beaten, either in skill or endurance, by any Indian on
the river. The probabilities are that you will be charmed with your
first experience, and if Jim is in the stern of the canoe you'll ask him
if it's difficult to paddle — to which he'll say, " Not much," with a grin —
and what you'd have to pay for a nice canoe ? To this latter question
he may answer, anywhere from $20 to $40. It all depends on the im
pression he gets of your wealth and gullibility. If he says $20, you had
better offer him $18 and take it. He'll think more of you if you don't
give him quite as much as he asks, and you may make your mind easy
with regard to the other $2, because he didn't expect $20 anyway.
If you have time, it will interest you to watch your canoe being
built. Jim Paul builds as good canoes as any one, and he is a good
man to deal with. He lives opposite Fredericton, in the Indian village
at St. Mary's, already mentioned, and if you walk over the bridge and
follow the footpath to your right, along the bank, you'll come to Jim's
hut before you've gone 50 yards. If he has begun operations on your
canoe, he'll be sitting on the ground by his front door driving wooden
pins into the ground. He makes a little fence of these, about 8 in.
high and inclosing a space the size and shape of your canoe. After a

ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN. 161
few last pats on the ground inside the inclosure, to make sure it is
level and free from stones and lumps, he brings out the bark and lines
the inclosure with it, putting it inside out. The bark of a canoe runs
with its grain from bow to stern, and, if his piece is long enough to
cover the whole inclosure, so much the better as far as looks are con
cerned. If not, there will be a seam across near the middle.
When the bark is put into the little inclosure it is pressed smoothly
and flatly down to the ground and up against the wooden pins and
folded over their tops ; and bricks or other convenient weights are put
in upon it to keep it in place.
Next, long, thin strips of cedar, about 4 in. wide and £ in. thick,
are laid over the bark, and are fitted so as to cover all the inside of
the canoe, leaving only very narrow cracks here and there. Then the
gunwales are put on — or at least the inner strips are put in place and
bound tightly with cane (he'll use hackmatack-roots if you must have
them). This will give the builder a purchase for the ribs, which are
next in order. They may be of any light, strong wood — cedar or
spruce, usually. They are broader at their middles than at their ends,
so that the bottom of the canoe is well floored over while the silvery
bark of the birch is gleaming through at the sides. The midrib is the
greatest arc, and from the midrib to each end they gradually diminish
in size until at last they are bent almost double. For a short dis
tance — a foot and a half — in bow and stern there are no ribs at all, and
the bark of each side is sewed with roots or cane so as to make a sharp,
neat prow. The cavity is generally stuffed with shavings, and a shin
gle is cut to fit in and close it immediately ahead or behind the last rib.
So far the bottom of the canoe is flat and the sides stand on it at
right angles ; but when the ends of the midrib are pressed under the
gunwales on each side and it is pushed into its proper position and a
few of its fellows are ranged in place on each side, we see that the
bark has left the ground, except at the center, and the sides are as
suming the curve of the finished canoe. Everything is rather loose
till the bars are put in. There are five bars in an ordinary -sized ca
noe — a long one in the middle and shorter ones on each side. They
are of maple, and are fitted into the gunwales at each end and lashed
in snugly, drawing the canoe to its proper shape. Then the top strips
of the gunwales are put on, and the seams on bow and stern and mid
ships — if there be a seam there- — are covered with cotton and smeared
thoroughly with a mixture of resin and grease, and the eanoe is ready
11

162 ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN.
for trial. It will probably leak, of course, and the leaks must be found
and smeared with the resinous mixture. Then your canoe is done, and
you must learn to manage it !
If you get in and kneel down in front of the stern-bar and get Jim
to sit in front and watch you, you will, after a few attempts, be able to
keep her from wabbling in her course — that is, from zigzagging — but
you will find that after every two or three strokes of the paddle you
stop and steer, or else you are inclined to paddle first on one side and
then on the other. Both these methods are in nowise allowable. No
canoeman stops to steer ! No canoeman changes sides — except to rest.
If you are paddling on the right side, let your right hand grip the pad
dle very near the top of the blade — the lower down, the more power —
and the left a, couple of inches below the top. Many good canoemen
clasp their fingers over the top of the paddle, but it is not so good form
nor as good for long work as is the true Indian mode of holding — viz.,
with the back of the hand toward the face and the thumb and fingers
reaching around to the front. Dip the whole depth of the blade, so
that your right hand goes under water, and pull strongly and slowly.
At the end of your stroke, as the blade is rising toward the surface,
turn the blade on to its edge by twisting the right wrist toward the side
of the canoe. No time is spent in this twisting of the blade, but on it
depends the mastery of the canoe and the decision of your course.
Practice alone can show you how to make it effective. By the steadi
ness of his blade in the water and by judgment as to the proper time
for a new stroke; the experienced canoeman can defy a chopping white-
crested sea that would make short work of a stout row-boat. Be sure
and don't sit upon the bar of your canoe unless you are alone or have
no room to kneel. Any one on the St. John River will know you are a
novice if you are seen perched upon the bar. Kneel, as I said before,
and kneel rather low. For ordinary light work you will find it con
venient to rest against the bar behind you, but when you go making
your 35 miles a day on dead water you'll find that you work best " on
your hunkers," as the Indians say — that is, sitting on your heels.
Paddling a canoe is one thing ; propelling it by a pole, even against
a moderate current, is quite another. But learn to pole you must, if
you would explore New Brunswick waters and be independent of your
Indian. The first essential is the pole. It will be of spruce, 8 or 9 ft.
long, and about the size, in circumference, of the circle made by your
thumb and second finger. It will be dry and light and smoothly fin-

ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN. 163
ished, and, if it is free from knots and flaws as it should be, it will be
wonderfully pliable and tough.
You had better get an experienced poler to give you a few instruc
tions before you try your hand, because, of course, you must stand up
to pole a canoe, and you will get no support from the pole, and the
length of time you remain in the canoe will depend entirely on your
luck if you go at it blindly.
Jim Paul poles in good form. Let him take you up the river away
while you watch him closely.
You will see that he stands with his feet braced apart a little and
faces the near shore. Suppose he is poling on the right side, he grasps
the pole near the middle with his right hand and puts it to the bottom
of the river just behind him, using his left hand merely to direct the
pole to its hold in the hard mud. Then he surges steadily and strongly
back with his right arm, and, as the canoe glides ahead, the left arm
gets a chance to shove too and makes the most of its opportunity. The
right hand, so long as he poles on this side, will never leave the pole
except in making a long push, in which case the poler will often run
the length of the pole hand over hand. He will always lift from the
stroke with his right hand and swing the dripping end out ahead of
him in a shining half circle, seize it below with his left to plant it for
a new shove, and go on as before.
By setting the pole on the bottom, at some distance out from the
side of the canoe, and, during the stroke, drawing the stern close to the
pole, the bow will be swung in toward shore, gradually or abruptly, as
the poler may desire. By setting the pole well under the canoe, and
pushing the stern off from it, a turn in the opposite direction is made.
An experienced canoeman keeps a perfectly straight course and
makes his turns and curves with precision and without wabbling or
wavering, just as a practiced bicyclist does with his wheel.
In very deep water, sometimes, the pole must be used, for some of
the strongest rapids are deep. But you need not be taken unawares
by deep, strong water. You will know whether or not you are going
to encounter any, and will start on your trip armed with a pole of ex
ceptional length.
This long pole will be found of great service, too, in a short, shal
low rapid of more than usual strength, when you can not afford to take
a full, new stroke. You will then find it advisable to " swish " the
lower end quickly into the air and " snub " down hard with the other,

164 ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN.
keeping your pole ever ready to gain a step, as it were, by turning a
handspring. With a reliable man in the bow and stern, a canoe can be
forced up through a foaming, dashing run that looks utterly im
passable. Tho pole will be indispensable also in shooting rapids — running down
over them. On the New Brunswick waters, at many seasons of the year,
there is very little water in the principal fishing streams, and the rocks
are so thick in the runs that a paddle is useless. Then the bowman
must keep his wits about him, and must kneel high with a short, stout
pole held ready to " snub " for all he's worth, so that the bows may
not be stove in on some bare rock that the sternman has failed
to avoid, owing to his natural inability to keep his canoe headed
in every conceivable direction at once, without getting in the least
" rattled." If you are going to shoot rapids — full-grown ones — you must be as
cool as if your game were elephants. If you are not, you will break
your bark's back over a ledge or rip her up with a pointed rock ; and
will lose a lot of your load, and have to tramp through the woods to
the nearest village.
Many a time I have looked from my position by the stern-bar and
seen a raging incline hissing and snarling ahead of me, with black
rocks bobbing up everywhere. Never a word from the fellow in front
of me. He leans peering over the bow, and keeps his pole flashing like
a fencer's foil from side to side. He's working like a horse. I pick
out the main course and use all the common sense and experience I
can lay claim to in choosing the deepest water and keeping clear of the
worst rocks. He looks out for the smaller but no less dangerous ones.
We come to a sharp turn, and I head her straight for a giant bowlder
that stoops in front of us, surging his way against the roaring stream
with frothy, jagged shoulders. The canoe shivers and leaps at him,
and I give a twist to right, and a side current helps me just in time,
and we turn half round and dart for another. The bowman catches
her in her jump and holds hard while I slip the stern to the left, and
we spring through a line of rolling waves and shoot into the rest and
calm of a deep, still pool, and " lie easy " a minute to look back and
live those last few seconds over again. Our pipes are smoked to the
very heel, and we start again, with every sinew and nerve strung tight,
ready for what may come.
That is the kind of strengthening medicine you will get in the wilds

ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN. 165
with a birch-bark canoe ! — strong water that will intoxicate you fast
enough and leave no headache !
If you strike the stream when the water is high — say, after the
June freshet — you'll find all the rapids full and the water running deep
and heavy and covering all the smaller rocks, so that there is not half
the risk of being " stove in." Then you can let your bowman sit at
his ease, and you can settle yourself with your broadest-bladed paddle
and keep things straight, and listen to the shouting of the stream. No
work for you now ! Nothing but highly-spiced hot puddings and the
brightest of the bright champagnes ! And all digestible as bread and
milk ! And no stint !
Try it for yourself, and see whether or not this is exaggerated.
Up the Tobique by Canoe.
A TYPICAL NEW BRUNSWICK TRIP.
Our party consisted of the " Ecclesiastic," the " Artist," and my
self. The Ecclesiastic is a veteran devotee of birch and paddle. The
Artist was a novice, but, being of frame and spirit fashioned to with
stand the thousand unnatural shocks which the canoeist is heir to, he
soon proved himself one of the initiated. Without much difficulty,
and for a consideration of $1 a day, we provided us each with an In
dian, and each Indian provided a birch canoe, warranted unstable but
water-proof. Our supplies we laid in at the Andover grocery. As an essential,
they included an open tin baking-oven — an apparatus with which the
Melicite bakes excellent bread at the camp-fire.
The start was decreed for Friday morning, but rain and the non
appearance of our Melicites postponed it till the afternoon. A word in
regard to these Melicites, whom let me commend to explorers of the
Tobique. They were Steve Solace, chief guide, and his two nephews,
Tom and Frank.
About 1.30, in a spell of clear sky, we paddled off from Andover
and fancied ourselves under way ; but the Indians had a stop to make
at their village. Here was a delay of nearly two hours, which left us
little of the afternoon for journeying. Not far ahead were " The Nar
rows," the toughest piece of navigation which the whole length of the
Tobique could bring to bear against us, with the possible exception of
Red Rapids. We decided to employ the remnant of our daylight in

166 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
demolishing the obstacle, that we might have clear poling to look for
ward to on the morrow.
A mile of easy water, and " The Narrows " were reached. Here
the Tobique has chiseled itself a canon through a range of calciferous
slate which had sought to bar its way to the St. John. The little diffi
culty, I understand, was settled some ages back, but the river still
chafes furiously at remembrance of the opposition ; the gloomy crags
still threaten, as if they brooded over their defeat. Redly into the
gate of the gorge streamed the light of the low, unclouded sun, filling
the water with fervent greens and olives and flushing the naked faces
of the cliffs.
But the gorge is tortuous and the sunshine was speedily shut out,
while the rocks drew closer and closer above, as if they would strike
their somber foreheads together. The toppling black walls were
scrawled over with tracings of white where the thin seams of limestone
displayed themselves. Here and there we marked the cordial green of
a cedar-tree, swung from some scant root-hold on the- steep.- Once we
came to a spot where the cation widened, giving room for an eddy
which served us for a breathing-place, and for a queer detached rock-
pinnacle which must figure as an island at high water. At this season
the stream was low, or a passage of the Narrows would have been one
of the wildest of impossibilities. Instead of volleying down the gorge
in an endless succession of great, white, roaring surges, as is its wont in
time of freshet, the current now darted on like a flight of green arrows,
splintering into a hiss of foam on every point and ledge, and occasion
ally dipping under a group of thin-crested, stationary " ripples."
Though this devious chasm is not a mile in extent, we occupied two
hours and more in its passage. For all that, we had little time to de
light in our grim surroundings. We had to snatch our impressions.
With straining shoulders and flashing paddles, we aided to our utmost
the poles of our sorely-perspiring guides. Sometimes we would grasp
a jutting rock, and hold on like leeches while the panting Melicites
breathed. We thrust and paddled desperately, now on this side now
on that, as a spiteful cross-current would tug fiercely at our bow to
drag us into some small but malignant Charybdis. All the while our
ears rang with the rushing clamor of the rapids, doubled and trebled
and hurled back upon us by the chasm's resonant wails. At last the
walls fell swiftly apart before us, revealing a far, bright stretch of
placid waters, bedded in low, green shores, with a sundown sky of

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 167
clear sea-green and amber widening out peacefully above it. Beheld
from this cavern of tumult and gloom, the vision came to our eyes like
the veritable embodiment of a dream.
Upon a plot of gravelly sward we pitched our tents. As the rains
had drenched everything, we had trouble with our fire till a dry stump
was found. After supper, while the red glare of the fire wrought
strange confusion with the moonbeams among the thickets about us,
and on the misty level of the water that neighbored our threshold, we
gathered huge armfuls of a giant fern which grew near by, and dried
them for our couches and pillows. The Indians, who had their " lean-
to " over against the tent-door, preferred their wonted pile of hemlock-
branches. As we were running over with noble resolutions concerning
an early start, before the morrow's sun should have got his eyes well
opened, we sat not long that night about our fire. At a modest hour
we were snug in our ferns and blankets.
Fortunately for the fate of our resolutions, the morrow, to all ap
pearance, had no sun. It was rain, rain, rain ; now mist, now drizzle,
now "pitchforks." When it happened to be for a little in the milder
form of mist, about eleven in the morning, we struck tent and got
under-way. At once came on the rabid form of " pitchforks." With
water-proofs buttoned up to the neck, the skirts thereof spread out to
shed the downfall, we endured in silence till we had scored a moist
three miles. Then, coming to a farm-house set temptingly close to the
stream, we decided to break for cover. The Ecclesiastic was sitting in
a pool which chilled, he said, his most deeply-seated enthusiasms ; and
we agreed that a kitchen-fire, with possibilities of buttermilk an' sich,
had just now peculiar charms for a canoeist's imagination. Canoes
and dunnage safe beneath tarpaulins, we presented ourselves all drip
ping at the kitchen-door, while the Indians took to the barn.
Soon the weather cleared, and in the afternoon we made good prog
ress. Between the showers the Artist would be busy with his sketch
book, whipping it under his mackintosh at the first sign of a sprinkle.
As for the Ecclesiastic, he is an ardent disciple of the gentle Isaac, and
had got his rod spliced as soon as we came in sight of the Tobique.
We two now kept casting from side to side as the canoe climbed on
ward, though on this lower course of the stream we had no expectations
to be disappointed. The large trout were lying higher up, or in the
mouths of the brooks, and one need not look for a salmon at his fly
before he reaches the Oxbow. Yet certain of the small fry were on

168 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
hand, and we took enough to supply our pan liberally. The Ecclesiastic
also, favored among anglers, struck and skillfully landed a small grilse.
The fertile soil along the lower Tobique is being rapidly taken up by
settlers, so during all this day's poling we were rarely out of sight of
some sign of civilization. Now it was a latticed red and white bridge,
leaping out of a mass of green on either lofty bank, and putting an
airy limit to some enchanted vista before us. Now it was a white
village perched on a hill, with a wall of dark fir-trees behind, and the
yellow refuse of its now idle saw-mill covering the low level in its front.
Toward sunset the showers ceased finally, and in the exquisite air we
grew all too indolent to wield or rod or pencil. We dreamed along
between the changing shores, and were disposed to grumble when the
Indians halted for supper. To the halt, however, we grew reconciled,
when the savor of our browning trout stole out upon the hay-sweet
breezes. After supper we pushed on through gathering dusk, while
the twang and cry of night-hawks filled the upper skies with magic,
and we caught a far-off piping of summer frogs, with the lowing of
cattle from a farmstead back of the hills. Reaching a wooded island
in mid-stream we saw that it was good, and pitched our tents.
The camp was on the east side of the island, under a pair of stately
black ash. What a mighty fire we built that night to glare across the
water ! It served at the same time, truth compels me to add, the less
romantic purpose of drying our socks, etc. We were so wet that one
cheep-lah-quah-gan * could not satisfy our needs. The camp was full
of cheep-lah-quah-gans. It was also full of sand-flies — the insidious
and all-pervasive " bite-um-no-see-um " — and with a fine Tobique variety
of the mosquito. These troubled the Artist sorely, while the rest of us,
knowing them of old, hid beneath a panoply of tar-ointment. This
compound, familiarly known as " slitheroo," is tar and grease boiled
down, with some unnecessary chemical superadded. The Artist stood
in awe of it. He fled to it at last, however, after bitterly inveighing
against the Tobique for having brought him " to this pitch." As he
stood by the oheep-laluquah gan, alternately turning his socks and
daubing on the succulent ointment, he became, on a sudden, inspired.
He began :

* This is the Melicite name for the green sapling driven into the
ground to stand over the camp-fire, for the purpose of holding the pot
and kettle, Clothes, etc., are hung upon it to dry. — Ed.

Caribou Migration.

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 169
" Tobique, or not Tobique, that is the question.
Whether 'tis nobler in the flesh to suffer
The stings and arrows of outrageous midges,
Or to take arms against a siege of sand-flies,
And by tar-ointment end them ! "
At this stage he was rudely interrupted.
By a lamentable oversight our tent was pitched with the door there
of toward the east. Therefore we awoke too early, and lay long watch
ing the sunrise over the low, thick-wooded hills. Then the coils of mist,
tinged with saffron, pink, and violet, wavered and faded from the up
lands ; but on the water they clung writhing in pearly ropes for nearly
an hour longer. The woods all about were full of the " Canada-bird,"
or white-throated sparrow, whose limpid, pathetic whistle lacked never
an echo. As we watched the crystalline pageant of the morning a blue
film stole between our eyes and it, then a dazzling shimmer, and we
knew that the camp-fire was lighted. Soon a smell of pancakes and
hot coffee invaded our couch, and springing up with alacrity we were
fairly launched out upon a delicious Sunday's rest.
We set off on Monday early, while the mists were yet on the stream,
and the elm-branches, in the moveless, cool air, were drooping as if
asleep. This was the luxurious time for traveling, and in the heat
about noon wo could indulge ourselves in a siesta. At half-past ten we
reached Red Rapids, a spot where tho river revels down a wild incline
of red sandstone. The day had turned out temperate and cloudy.
These rapids being shallow and difficult, we disembarked, and carrying
our rods along with us took a settlements-road parallel with the stream,
leaving the Indians to navigate the chutes, and appointing to meet
them later at the mouth of Trout Brook. But a pleasant surprise was
in store for us. We soon came within sound of laughter and singing,
the neighing of horses, and the shouts of young backwoods swains. A
turn of the road brought us out vpon a clearing all alive with tethered
teams and strolling couples. In the midst of the clearing was a barn, in
which was being held what I may define as a picnic tea-meeting. From
the mouth, from Arthuret, from Andover even, they bad gathered in hila
rious parties, in a gorgeous but bewildering whirl of fluttering ribbons and
many.colored attire. They received us into their midst with the frank
est and heartiest hospitality. It was a gay time for us, till the Eccle
siastic unkindly pointed out that we had consumed nearly three hours
in this Vanity Fair, The Artist and I had made a perfect host of

170 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
acquaintances (especially among the maidens), who did not seem to
want us to go away. We had played many games, interesting and
more or less naive, in the course of which (I blush to tell it) it had fallen
to the Artist's lot to kiss the prettiest damsel present. We bad been
treated to the dubious delights of the swing, which made us dizzy ; and
we had laid out a vast amount of precious muscle in assisting to swing
fair ladies. This swinging was the darling pastime of the ladies, whose
passion for it seemed insatiable, and was indulged with great expendi
ture of giggling and small shrieks, and with an artless prodigality of
spotless stockings. At length the Ecclesiastic was obliged to remind
us of our families, and to point out that the rural beaux were looking
grim ; so, with pockets full of cookies, conversation lozenges, and other
tender tributes, we gathered up our tackle and withdrew. Perhaps
we imagined it, but it seemed to us a gloom fell over the company
as we left.
At the mouth of the brook the Indians were awaiting us. Had we
kept them so waiting all day they would never, such is their patience,
have dreamed of complaining. We stayed to fish the last hundred
yards or so of Trout Brook, getting fine sport with some lively and .
voracious half-pounders. The brook seemed alive with sprightly and
graceful fish, from a quarter to a half pound in weight. The Ecclesi
astic said a good many of these would weigh a pound and over; such
delicious ambiguity is the safeguard of a fisherman's reputation.
Later on we halted at a ruined mill, where the dilapidated dam
seemed a part of the river's bank, and the scanty stream that had sup
plied it fell over the moss-greened timbers in a diaphanous veil of sil
ver. The mill-pond above was shallow, and muffled in water-lilies, from
under which we lured some large but soggy-looking trout. They had
little play in them, for all their vast and ferocious black mouths. For
the rest of the day we little cared to fish ; we were content with the
dolce far niente which our tireless Melicites and this peerless river con
spired to make possible for us. Our journeying was after this fashion.
Before embarking, the Indian would heap into the canoe, aft of the
front bar, a sweet-smelling armful of ferns, or wild grasses, or hem
lock-boughs. This for our seat. For a back thereto he would fix a
wide bit of board against the second bar ; and over it, for softness,
throw a blanket or a coat. Stretched out on such soft couch, our feet
in moccasins, our rods thrust into the bow ahead of us, we lolled, or
smoked (all but the Ecclesiastic), or read, or took notes, or chatted

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 171
lazily across the waters that parted canoe from canoe. Or at times,
when we preferred it so, how sweet it was simply
" to watch the emerald-colored water falling
From cave to cave through the thick-twined vine " ;
or " hearing the downward stream,
With half-shut eyes ever to seem
Falling asleep in a half dream ! "
We passed the embowered mouth of the quiet Wapskehegan, navi
gable for 20 miles, but said to contain no fish ; and a little farther we
discovered what may have been a former channel of this stream. It
was a sharply-defined, tortuous green lane, leading from the river's
brink back into the wilderness, with alders and poplars and ash-trees
dipping into it. Plainly it was not a roadway. It resembled the bed
of a river from which the sparkling floods had been shut off, that the
influent, liberal, grassy tide of summer might flow in thereby and
brighten over the land.
Leaving behind the " Wapsky " and its problematical ancient de
bouchement, we came to one of the lions of the Tobique, the beautiful
" Plaster Cliff." The opposite shore is low and luxuriantly wooded,
with a mat of vines over trees and underbrush. The cliff itself rises
so sheer from the water's edge that only in one or two places was it
possible to land ; and its face, about 100 ft. in height, is a many-col
ored rock so soft that we could carve out specimens with our knives.
The surface crumbles rapidly under the frost and
" The stealthy depredations of gray rain " ;
and the settlers, in winter, come from miles about and haul it to their
farms as a fertilizer. The naked wall loomed over us, but could not
look forbidding with its lovely mixture of cool blues and grays, reds
and browns and yellows and umbers, somber purples and rosy or
creamy whites. Wheresoever there was a ledge, or fissure, or gentle
slope, there would be gathered a rich detritus bearing a perfect hang
ing-garden of wild flowers. The pendulous cups of the hare-bell swung
airily from every crevice, sometimes so thickly as to hang a veil of
blue lace-work over many square yards of the rock. From the dizzi
est shelves drooped the twisted pea-green cables of the vetch, studded
with its vivid purple blossoms ; and the white aromatic yarrow flung a
silvery mantle over the lowermost slopes. I have never seen in nature

172 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
another color-harmony so exquisite. The Artist was enraptured, and
wished his pencil were compounded of the rainbow, rather than of
sober graphite. The Ecclesiastic found a sermon of marvelous elo
quence in these stones.
Above Plaster Cliff the river runs through a wide belt of red sand
stone, remarkable for its depth and strength of tone. The next land
mark in my memory — or should I style it a " water-mark ? " — is the
Oxbow. This is a curious and strongly defined double bend in the
river, and we reached it late in the afternoon. Here, instead of the
airiness and park-like effects of hard wood shores and grass, we had a
sort of warm and cheerful shadow, deep, quiet, olive waters, rich-hued,
close-drawn shores of fir and cedar, and rocks all muffled in moss.
We paused awhile, in hope of striking a salmon. We tried our most
alluring flies, but the salmon, if on hand, were apparently not open to
inducements. The trout, however, were very numerous, and rose finely,
besides being of a larger size than any we had hitherto taken. The
Ecclesiastic chose to fish from shore, whither Steve followed to help
land the larger fish ; the Artist also went ashore, to sketch ; but with
Tom's assistance I fished from the canoe. Steve had been evincing
some desire to try his own dusky hand at the sport ; so at last the Ec
clesiastic handed him the rod for a moment, with a few cautionary
hints, and betook himself up the bank to a spring he had espied among
the rocks. I held my hand to watch Steve, as he stood proudly wield
ing the unaccustomed lance-wood ; and in that posture the Artist im
mortalized him. All the preliminaries the Indian accomplished with
skill ; but presently a fair-sized trout took one of his flies, and started
off up stream with it. Now Steve was in a piteous quandary. He had
forgotten all that he had been told to do. He did not understand the
reel, and was afraid the rod was going to break. He simply stood and
looked, with an expression of profound concern on his mahogany face.
When the trout started back, he pulled in some of the slack with his
fingers, gingerly enough, but let it go at once when the fish started
off again. No one would go to his assistance uninvited, lest he should
wound the Melicite dignity. At last a variation was introduced. A
large fish seized the disengaged fly, as it trailed about the pool ; and
then Steve turned frantically and raised a cry for help. The Ecclesi
astic, with immense laughter, ran up and seized the rod ; and after a
sharp struggle both prizes were brought to basket. The two together
weighed a pound and three quarters, and Steve most complacently

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 173
plumed himself on being their captor. For all that, however, he would
not touch the rod again ; perhaps dreading lest a more dubious success
might cast tarnish upon his piscatorial laurels.
Just beyond the Oxbow we came to the mouth of the Gulquac, one
of the Tobique's most important affluents. A little below it we saw a
deep, eddying pool, in which lay several salmon. They dispersed at our
coming, but we marked the spot. At the Gulquac was a small island,
treeless and grassy and stony, on which we encamped. Then, leaving
the Artist to sketch, the Melicites to get supper ready, the Ecclesiastic
and I took a canoe and dropped down to look for those salmon. They
had not yet returned, however ; so, promising to call again next morn
ing, we poled back to the Gulquac. This river joins the Tobique in a
long, straight, shallow race, just swift enough to dimple and bubble
deliciously. The place was alive with trout, of all sizes saving the
largest. We used a small, brown fly, and in half an hour took four
dozen, ranging from six or seven ounces to three quarters of a pound.
As the dusk thickened we put on small moths, and with a lavender-
colored fly I killed two fish that closely approached the pound. The
Ecclesiastic, just as we decided to reel up, struck a large fish that gave
him good fight, and, with his usual slice of luck, brought it safely home.
It went a pound and thirteen ounces. We reveled in trout hencefor
ward till we began furtively examining our sides and shoulders to see if
little rows of vermilion spots were beginning to come out upon us, or
fish-bones to stick through our skin. That night we named our halting-
place Camp Mosquito.
In the morning the Ecclesiastic and I paid an early visit to the
pool, in accordance with our resolve of the evening before. We were
fortunate enough to find the salmon at home. Tying the canoe to a
projecting branch a little above the pool, we made long and crafty
casts right down to the critical spot. We used small, quiet flies, such
as are most killing in the Nepisiguit, and played them lightly over the
surface. Presently, as my fly fell softly on the outermost edge of the
eddy, there came a strange little whirlpool right beneath it, followed
by a screech from my reel. The Ecclesiastic dropped his rod as if it
had burnt him, slipped the knot, and seized a paddle to be ready for
assisting me. Like a bow of silver the salmon shot into the air,
straightened himself, and fell slap on the spot where he expected the
line to be. But it wasn't there — I had dropped my rod-tip in time.
Without a pause, another and wilder leap, right toward the canoe ; and

174 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
we saw him fiercely shake at the tiny feather sticking fast in his jaw.
Then, after two more leaps, and an attempt to dart under the canoe,
foiled by a strong sweep of the Ecclesiastic's paddle, he hummed off
down stream, while the reel sang, and the canoe followed as fast as our
paddle could urge it. When he had taken off about sixty yards of my
line he turned for an up-stream scurry, which was hard on my paddle
but still harder on himself. I dared to check him severely while going
in that direction. Then came another series of leaps, and another
rush, and not till after twenty minutes of fight did the splendid fish
seem to grow perceptibly weaker. At last those mighty rushes became
short and of little account ; he lay half on his side close by us, and the
Ecclesiastic lifted the gaff. But the sight seemed to rouse him to one
last effort. He whizzed off and brought up blindly in a shallow pool
close to shore. We drew in and cut off his retreat. The Ecclesiastic
has a just dislike to the gaff, so he slipped overboard into the shallow
water, with a swift motion got both arms beneath the fish, and threw
him out upon the grass. Poor salmon, what a gallant fight he had
made ! We gave him an instant quietus, and gazed upon him with
respect and admiration. " How about the favored clergy now ? " in
quired the Ecclesiastic, as we poled homeward. I said nothing; and
that salmon went thirteen pounds.
This day's voyaging was pleasant, though about midday the heat
was so appalling as to drive us to covert. Early in the day we reached
Two Brooks, which is the singular name given to one small brook run
ning through a little settlement. At its mouth was a salmon-weir,
running out nearly to mid-stream. To our right rose, in hazy grandeur,
the twin summits of Blue Mountain,, its nearer slopes a stony and fire-
scathed wilderness ; on our left the brawling brook, some rich groves,
the gray little village, and fields of charred stumps, all muffled in deep
grasses. The fishing here, for numbers, was superb. There was no
limit to it, apparently. The Artist built him a lean-to, that he might
sketch in shade ; and he penciled a masterpiece. This masterpiece,
since rendered permanent with ink and Chinese white, depicts the
Ecclesiastic with his trousers rolled far above his energetic knees,
the skirts of his clerical coat (donned in deference to the neighboring
civilization) dragging in the water, established as near mid-stream as
wading would place him, while he throws his whole heart into dropping
his fly into the very back-wash of the weir. Myself, averse to exertion,.
conspicuous by my lightness of attire, am fishing from the canoe. The

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 175
Artist himself appears not in the masterpiece, which is so far in
complete. As through the afternoon we continued
" Ever climbing up the climbing wave,"
we narrowly escaped being run down by a voyaging squirrel. This
brave little voyager was making across current diagonally, and seemed
to us somewhat exhausted. The Ecclesiastic, being nearest, stretched
out his paddle to the bushy navigator, who straightway climbed aboard,
and sat up, dripping but " chipper," upon the bow of the canoe. Con
ducted courteously to the other shore, which he reached, by a daring
leap, before we had time fairly to land him, be whisked off without a
word of acknowledgment or a hint of paying his fare. Later we passed
a green snake swimming along complacently, and we concluded the
creatures were sanctioning the pernicious practice of bathing in the
heat. We accepted his sanction as valid ; and at the next pool, in
stead of fishing, we swam. Toward sundown we reached a couple of
small islands, below which the fishing was excellent and the fish large.
The trout rose all around us, took our flies greedily, and it was most re
luctantly that we tore ourselves away. A mile farther on we encamped
on a tempting point of dry, sweet meadow, round which the river
swept in a narrowed channel ; and Steve, pointing to the deep, rapid
curve, said: "Plenty salmon here, mebbe; ugh!" We all tried for
these straightway, even the Artist, while supper was getting ready ;
but we took only two or three trout and a wretched chub. Next
morning, however, brought us better fortunes. Standing at the lower
corner of the bend, I raised a small salmon at my second throw ; but
there was some flaw in the casting-line, and he sailed off, to my deep
disgust, with two flies and a couple of yards of gut. Thereafter, I
suppose, he tried some fishing on his own hook. A few minutes later
I heard a shout from the Ecclesiastic on the other side of the point.
Rushing to him, I found him busy with what was evidently a first-rate
fish ; when brought to book, after a quarter of an hour's excitement,
it proved an eleven-pounder.
Not far beyond this camp we sighted Bald Mountain, rising some
miles back from the river, out of the midst of cedar swamps. Here is the
little settlement of Riley's Brook, endowed with the most primitive affair
in the way of post-office that I have ever yet discovered. We mailed
letters here, exceeding brief ones, consigning them, with certain mis-

176 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
givings, to the care of the primitive postmaster — a rheumatic old lady.
Then we pushed on for the Forks, bidding good-by to the last of To
bique civilization. The next few miles were through a fire-stripped
country. We sighted here a bald-headed eagle, which, perched on the
top of a bleached pine trunk, kept guard over the surrounding desola
tion. His perch was but a stone's-throw back from the stream, and
as we approached he stretched out his lean neck, his flat, sharp, snake
like head, and surveyed our movements inquisitively. When we had
got well past he seemed to repent having let us off so easily, and yelped
after us some choice maledictions. Then we came to the Forks.
The Forks of the Tobique — this was one of the chief objective
points of the expedition. Here is the trout-ground of the river ; and
here, too, a favorite resort of the salmon. Three large streams at this
point flow together. From the southward comes the Campbell River,
more commonly called the Right Branch ; next, the Mamozekel —
" River of Alders," as the Melicite hath it — forming the middle tine of
this delectable fork ; and from the northward the Left Branch, alias
the Little Tobique, alias the Nictor. Where these waters gather in
conclave the shores draw somewhat apart, inclosing a spacious, deep,
sandy-bottomed basin, full of quietly-circling eddies and swirls. The
southward walls of this watery amphitheatre are low and rankly wooded,
but on the north they are high and bare, forming an airy perch whereon
we pitched our tent. The tongues of land between the converging
streams were, for the most part, of luxuriant weedy meadow, melodi
ously noisy with bobolinks. While dining on the height we gloated
over the liberal-bosomed pool spread out below us, and as soon as din
ner was over, leaving the Artist to his pencil, we took two of the canoes
and crossed to the side where the Right Branch emptied in. The
Ecclesiastic stationed himself upon one side, I on the other, while our
Melicites held us in position by thrusting down their paddles into the
sand. 'For a time the sport was merely good, not markedly better than
much we had left behind us ; and the fish were fastidious, taking noth
ing but a smallish gray and yellow fly. Our persevering casts for a
salmon elicited no response whatever. Then the breeze moderated, as
the sun began to cast lengthening shadows, and all at once the pool
became alive. Here and there a magnificent trout, of almost any num
ber of pounds, according to our excited eyes, would leap with the com
plete abandon of the smaller fry; and the smaller fry themselves seemed
to spend a large part of their time in the air. We shifted our flies a

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 177
little, but soon found that the trout of Tobique Forks, when bent on
making a meal, would make it of whatever might come handiest. Each
new fly seemed better than the last. The half and three-quarter pound
fish were reeled in with an alacrity which set glistening the eyes of our
stoical Melicites. I had already, after a series of brisk fights, taken
several lively one-and-a-half-pounders, and in the bottom of my canoe
lay a deep-set, solid trout that I flattered myself would go over the two
pounds. The Ecclesiastic, to judge from his joyous occasional shouts,
was being no less successful. At last, as it drew near sundown, and
our wrists had grown well-nigh helpless, I caught a sharp exclamation
from the Ecclesiastic, which made me turn to look at him. He was so
occupied that I thought he had hooked a salmon. Just then the fish
rolled half out of water, and I saw it was indeed a, trout, but one of
patriarchal proportions. '' A five-pounder 1 " I shouted, frantically ; but
the fisherman shut his lips and said never a word. He had need of all
his faculties. This trout gave him the work of a salmon of more than
twice his size. The strife was long and desperate, but kept within the
circle of the pool, and, when the Ecclesiastic netted his prize at last, it
was without having moved a hand-breadth from his post. Just from
the water this trout well cleared four pounds. It was the fish of the
trip. The Ecclesiastic afterward struck, and lost, one which he consid
ered larger (this was on the following day) ; and one which I am ready
to swear to as the historical five-pounder, rose in a dilettante fashion to
inspect my " Jock Scott " when I was on the quest for salmon ; but I
can't deny that these weights are problematical. The fish stayed not
long enough to permit of my being more accurate. My best trout of
the expedition went several ounces short of the three-pound scratch ;
but, when we came to brag of salmon, I was away ahead of the Eccle
siastic. We put in two more days at the Forks, in the course of which
we discovered that the salmon had a penchant for the lower part of the
pool, where I killed three more, good fish, the Ecclesiastic at the same
time scoring a couple of grilse. The Tobique salmon do not rise so freely
as those of the Nepisiguit or Miramichi. As for the number of trout
which we had taken — and early we stayed our hands — the Indians
salted them down in birch-bark crates. We imagined the mahogany
youngsters at Tobique mouth reveling in the fruits of our prowess ; and
we imagined them so vividly that the artist forthwith made a sketch of
our imaginings. And thus we felt no scruples on the abundance of our
catch. 12

178 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE.
Before we set out for up the Nictor we had to endure a break in
our little party. The Ecclesiastic had duties in town which required
him to be back at a certain day, and early on our third day at the
Forks he took his departure. We supplied him with rubber blankets
for a lean-to, and with sundry of the choicest delicacies from oui com
missariat ; and after a sorrowful farewell we watched him and his
faithful Steve glide off with the current. As for us who were left be
hind, for a while we fell into a kind of melancholy. Rousing ourselves
at last we struck tent, shipped our dunnage, and made ready to ascend
the Nictor. Our aim was Little Tobique, or Nictor Lake, with its
guardian mountain. We got off at about eleven, and our little flotilla
appeared to us sadly diminished. We missed the Ecclesiastic's unflag
ging ardor, and the Artist could find no heart to sketch, the penster to
take notes or flourish his lance-wood. The poling at first was difficult,
as the Nictor here flows over a formation of flagstones and slate-ledges,
affording poor hold to the poles. Passing this we made good headway,
and, stopping for lunch at the mouth of Cedar Brook, found the trout
large, hungry, and abundant. The Artist became fisherman here, and
we tried hard to shake off our depression. We were stayed more than
once by windfalls, large trees blown right across the channel, and sev
eral of the rapids we scaled weie very shoal, as our canoes bore painful
witness. Throughout the day a fly, wherever cast, was sure to raise a
fish. By sundown we had covered two thirds of our way, and we en
camped where a little nameless brook flows in from the north. I shall
never forget how the sand-flies swarmed at this camp. They burrowed
into our nostrils, our ears, our hair. They developed a most depraved
taste, an actual craving, it seemed, for our tar ointment, in which we
had fairly soaked ourselves. The evening fishing was utterly spoiled
for us. We retreated to the tent, which the Indians walled about with
a chain of " smudges " ; then, when we had recovered from our panic,
we began loudly exulting in the discomfiture of our foes. A roaring
fire of dry pine-logs, the pleasant smell of the cedar smudges, a good
supper, and a comfortable couch in the glow, soon restored us to some
thing like our wonted cheerfulness. We sang songs, smoked our pipes,
and shouted many a warm greeting to the solitary canoe which had
forsaken us, and which we pictured as, by this time, possibly sliding
down by the Wapskehegan's mouth.
Next day we made never a halt to fish, and in the early afternoon
shot out upon the steely mirror of Little Tobique Lake. The scene '

UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 179
was almost oppressive in its stillness and its somber majesty. Round
the lake-shores were masses of dark syenite, with equally dark swamp-
forests intermingled ; and near the lake's head rose Nictor Mountain,
a beetling, naked cone of feldspar, frowning into subjection the lesser
hills which crouched and huddled around. The water was of great
depth, ice-cold, and colorless. The woods appeared to harbor no
birds or squirrels, and the only familiar sound which greeted us was
the piping of the frogs, which arose toward evening. We scaled Nietor
Mountain, which is some 2,000 ft. high, and from its summit had such
a panorama of hills, and rivers, and lakes, as I have described elsewhere
as seen from the peak of Sugar-Loaf. We noted old Sugar-Loaf on
the bright northwestern horizon. At this place we spent a day and
two nights, finding no lack of sport in the gloomy waters ; but the
region proved too severe and chilling for us, and its atmosphere of
atony endurance crept into our very souls.
" The strange-scrawled rocks, the lonely sky,
¦ If I might lend their life a voice,
Seem to hear rather than rejoice."
We had not time at our disposal to portage to Nepisiguit Lake and
descend that wild river. As we hastened away with the racing current,
on our downward trip, one morning, wo seemed to leave behind us a
whole mountain of vicarious woe. We stopped not till we reached the
Forks that same afternoon.
After a successful evening's sport in the well-loved pool, we found
that now we had little room to spare in the canoes, on account of the
Indians' cargo of salt-fish. Thenceforth we killed but enough for each
meal. On our down trip we made great progress, and traveled luxuri
ously. My remembrance of it is, for the most part, a confusion of
greens and blues and browns, streaming awaybehind us as we fled,
with a vivid effect in rose and white at Red Rapids, and a study in
black, with lightning high-lights, when we made the passage of the
Narrows during a thunderstorm. We ran the Red Rapids about noon,
in a reckless mood, with enthusiasm and hair-breadth escapes. At the
Narrows we kept our heads level, for tho stream was pretty full ; and
the passage, amid the roar of the surges, the volleyings of the ponderous
thunder, the streaming of the rain, and the blue dartings of the light
ning from cliff to cliff, was thrilling enough for all reasonable demands.
A half-hour later we were in Andover, at Perley's Hotel, donning the

180 BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK.
garb of civilization with a degree of haste marvelously accelerated by
a savor of beefsteak and buckwheat pancakes.

By Rail from Woodstock.
From Woodstock the C. P. R. R. runs, for the most part, through a
rather rough country to McAdam Junction, passing Debec Junction,
whence the Houlton Branch diverges. Houlton has between 4,00u and
5,000 inhabitants, and is a progressive little town. Ten miles beyond
Debec Junction is the station of Wickham. The landscape seen from
the car-windows throughout by far the greater part of this route can
hardly be called exhilarating. Sometimes there is a little appearance
of cheer around the stations ; and among the charred stumps of the
half-cleared fields are patches of sweet-smelling buckwheat. As a rule,
the forests consist chiefly of gray bowlders and the trunks of dead
trees. In late summer, however, tho brilliant blossoms of the fire-
weed touch the desolation with a purple glory. Twenty-six miles from
Woodstock is the station of Eel River. Five miles beyond is Canter
bury Station, in the neighborhood of the famous Skiff Lake. In this
water is taken the landlocked salmon or " shiner," a magnificent game-
fish, very much like the ouananiche, but running to a larger size. It is
in every way the peer of its more renowned relative, but is at times
very capricious in its tastes, refusing to rise to the most seductive fly
invented. The station of Deer Lake, 42 miles from Woodstock, is a
mere lumbering post. Sixteen miles beyond the gray bowlders thicken
over the face of the landscape, and among them we discover McAdam
Junction, where one may get refreshments in the station restaurant.
Thence, passing the stations of Barber Dam and Lawrence, we come to-
Watt Junction, 16 miles from McAdam ; here a branch diverges to St...
Stephen, a distance of 19 miles.
Si. Stephen is a progressive little town at the head of navigation on
the St. Croix River. It is a center of the lumber-trade, and has grow
ing manufactures. Contiguous with St. Stephen is Milliown, with a
large cotton-mill. Together the two towns have a population of be
tween 4,000 and 5,000. Across the river, and forming practically one
community with St. Stephen and Milltown, is the little American city
of Calais, in the State of Maine. Calais has between 7,000 and 8,000
inhabitants. Between these communities, though they differ in their
allegiance and their flag, there exist the closest harmony and most inti-.

BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. 181
mate social relations ; but the bridges connecting them are guarded
by the customs officials of both nations. Nevertheless, the neighbor
hood affords a fine field for interesting and sometimes successful
smuggling experiments. In the War of 1812 St. Stephen and Calais
refused to come to blows, or to regard each other as enemies. The
chief hotel of St. Stephen is the Queen Hotel. In Calais the best are
the American House and St. Croix Exchange. At Milltown the naviga
tion of the river is closed by falls. A steamer runs daily in summer,
semi-weekly in winter, down the river to St. Andrews and Eastport,
connecting with the boats of the International S. S. Co. St. Stephen
is at present the western terminus of the Grand Southern Railway,
which runs eastward to St. John. From Calais a railway runs 21 miles
N. W. to the foot of the Schoodic Lakes, whence a small steamer as
cends to the famous fishing-grounds of Grand Lake Stream, in Maine.
The lower lake is occupied by pike, which have cleared out the more
valuable game-fish ; but the upper waters abound with brook-trout,
lake-trout, landlocked salmon, and pickerel. Near the foot of Big
Schoodic dwells a tribe of the Quoddy Indians, among whom may be
hired guides to the labyrinths of lakes and streams connecting with the
Schoodics. By short portages from these waters one may reach tribu
taries of the Penobscot and Machias.
The main line from Watt Junction passes the little stations of Dum
barton (3 miles from the Junction), Rolling Dam (7 miles), and here we
¦touch the Digdiguash River, and follow its course some miles ; Hewitt's
(8 miles), Roix Road (12 miles), Waweig (14 miles), Bartlett's (16 miles),
and Chameook (22 miles). Here the scenery becomes impressive. We
skirt Passamaquoddy Bay. Chameook Mountain is a steep and solitary
mass, overlooking the bay and the quiet bosom of Chameook Lake. A
few miles above Chameook, on the St. Croix, is the picturesque inlet
of Oak Bay. At this point the St. Croix bends at right angles to its
course, and forms, with Oak Bay, a figure much resembling a cross,
whence, according to tradition, is derived its name. Five miles beyond
Chameook Station we run into the delightful watering-place of St. An
drews, a village of two thousand and odd inhabitants, and the shire
town of Charlotte County.
Acadian history makes its real beginning at this point. To the
St. Croix, in 1604, came Champlain and the Sieur de Monts, and planted
a colony on a little grassy island within the river's mouth. A quad
rangle of wooden buildings was erected, with a chapel, and the Govern-

182 BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK.
or's residence. In spite of the lateness of the season, grain and vege
tables were planted, and a garden was laid out, after the fashion,
faintly, of those old gardens in France, for which, it may be, the colo
nists were now a little homesick. But in the bleak days of late autumn
their situation was dreary enough ; and, because their crops had failed
to ripen, they were compelled to live mainly on salt meats, a diet which
speedily affected their health and spirits. At last winter came, and the
snow, and the freezing winds ; such cold as in their own land they had
never learned to dream of. The sleet drove in through the chinks of
their ill-made buildings. Fuel was hardly to be obtained, and they
shivered over their scanty fires, till, in spite of Champlain's indomitable
and never-failing cheerfulness, their hearts sank utterly within them.
When disease broke out — scurvy in a terrible form, from their un
wholesome living — they fell an easy prey. Out of some 80 persons, but
44 survived, and these hardly. When the first warm days came they
crawled forth in the sun like shadows. Scarcely could the sick be at
tended, the dying ministered to, the dead buried. In the spring the
island was abandoned, stripped of all that could be carried away ; the
fortifications were dismantled, and the poor remnant of the colony fled
over the bay to Port Royal. Now, the lighthouse-keeper is the one man
who makes St. Croix Island his home. When, in 1783, the St. Croix
River was fixed upon as the boundary between Maine and New Bruns
wick, it became a disputed question as to what was the true St. Croix.
The Americans claimed that it was the river now known as the Maga-
guadavic, much farther to the eastward ; but after much searching the
dispute was laid to rest, and the British claim established, by the dis
covery of the remains of Champlain's settlement, on Doncet's Island,
above St. Andrews.
St. Andrews is commandingly situated on a peninsula between the
St. Croix — at this point two miles wide — and Passamaquoddy Bay. It
was of old an important shipping center, with a great West Indian
trade, but its supremacy has been stolen and divided by St. John and
St. Stephen. The town is well laid out, in squares, with wide and well-
kept streets, and, besides its charms of scenery and climate, it has inter
esting remains of old British fortifications.
St. Andrews has expectations of a great commercial future, which
may or may not be realized, though her harbor is certainly all that
could be desired. As a summer resort her popularity is yearly in
creasing. She has her cool sea-breezes in the hottest months, her im-

BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. 183
munity from the Fundy fogs, her fresh and salt water fishing. More
over, she has her bathing, joyously indulged in by gay parties of young
men and maidens, old men and children. The water, however, is some
times uncomfortably cool. A favorite diversion at St. Andrews is the
sport of lobster-spearing. In the cool of the morning, when the tide
suits, there is a novel excitement in being rowed stealthily over the
transparent green water, while, spear in hand, one peers eagerly into
the masses of brown seaweed that dot the level bottom. In these
clumps of seaweed lurks our bottle-green prey, closely resembling his
surroundings in color, but betrayed by his red points. The lobster-
spear is not a spear at all, but a hook. It does not penetrate the lob
ster's shell, but catches under its belly among the small claws ; and one
must be neat-handed and swift to land the nimble crustacean. The
excitement reaches its highest pitch after a few active lobsters have
been captured and dropped loose in the boat, to investigate the merry
fishermen's ankles. In the way of hotels, St. Andrews has a regular
hostelry called the Central Exchange, also the large summer hotels, the
Argyll House and the Algonquin. Opposite the town is the American
ship building village of Robbinston. Travelers who have come straight
through by rail, without diverging to St. Stephen, will do well to visit
the latter town by the up-river boat. They will find good scenery at
Oak Bay, already mentioned, where stands the lovely pastoral village
of the same name. Leaving Oak Bay, the steamer passes on the left a
promontory called Devil's Head, named in somewhat ambiguous com
memoration of a settler named Duval who once dwelt thereon. Three
miles beyond is the ancient fishing village known as The Ledge ; and
another 4 miles brings us to St. Stephen.
tam pobello and Grand Ma nan.
To visit the summer resorts of Grand Manan and Campobello
one must take the boat to Eastport. on the Maine coast. From East-
port to Campobello, which is in Canadian waters, a ferry-steamer runs
every hour. The island has a permanent population of 1.100 inhab
itants, dwelling in the villages of Welchpool and Wilson's Beach. Cam
pobello is 8 miles long by 3 broad, and is traversed by beautiful drives
commanding magnificent views from upland and lofty promontory. Its
ancient name was Passamaquoddy Island. In 1 767 it was granted to
Admiral W. Fitzwilliam Owen, who used to pace up and down in full

184 BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK.
-uniform on a, quarter-deck which he built out over the rocks. The
admiral was not less peculiar in his death than in his life, for he was
buried at night, by the light of candles in the little family church. The
island is redolent with romantic memories and legends, and stories of
ghosts, pirates, and wrecks. During the Fenian scare of 1866 a num
ber of ardent Irishmen gathered at Eastport to invade Campobello, but
altered their benevolent intention. Admiral Owen's heirs of the pres
ent generation, becoming tired of the seclusion and quiet of Campo
bello, at length removed to England, and in 1880 the island was pur-
chased by a syndicate of American capitalists, who have made it a sum
mer resort of the first rank. The old Owen Manor-House has been
enlarged into a most attractive hotel, called the Owen, which retains
many of the distinctive charms of its earlier days — the Lovers' Lane,
and the old-fashioned hedges, sun-dial, and porter's lodge. Besides
the Owen, the Campobello Company has erected two more summer
hotels on the island. These are peculiarly handsome and striking
buildings, and rejoice in the equally striking names of the Tyn-y- Coedd
and the Tyn-y-Mais, which signify respectively " The House in the
Wood " and " The House in the Field." Small as the island is, it has
variety of scenery, and points of interest to visit — such as the light
houses, the inlet of Harbor de Lute, the bold promontory of Eastern
Head, the beautiful cove and lake of Glen Severn, and the famous
landmark known as Friar's Head. This is a lofty detached mass of
rock thrust up out of the sea, and its battered face bears witness to the
fact that it has been used as a target for the guns of cruising war
ships. The island of Grand Manan lies about 7 miles off the coast of
Maine, but forms a portion of New Brunswick. Its people are quaint
and hospitable, its summer climate delicious, its fishing and shooting
are good, and its scenery a well-nigh matchless blending of the beau
tiful and the grand. Moreover, it is not a regular summer resort. It
lies out of the beaten track, and is as yet perfectly unhackneyed. There
are no gigantic summer hotels, and the visitor must as a rule find board
in private houses, which he may do very comfortably and pleasantly at
from $5 to $7 a week. There is the added charm of uncertainty as to
when one will get there ; and, this accomplished, as to when one will
get away. Grand Manan is reached by steamer from Eastport — very
easily and pleasantly when the weather suits, and not at all when the
weather does not suit. There is also communication with St. John by

BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. 185
the steamer Flushing. Its harbors are small and not easy of access,
its shores are terrific, and the variety and velocity of the currents
which the great Fundy tides succeed in creating in the island channels
are something which must be seen to be realized. The island is 22
miles long, with an extreme breadth of 6 miles. It lies in the mouth
of the Bay of Fundy, and has about 3,000 inhabitants, who occupy
chiefly a thin line of settlements along the E. shore, and devote them
selves to the rich fisheries of the surrounding waters, which simply
swarm with cod, haddock, and herring. The island was visited by
Champlain in 1605, but for nearly two centuries thereafter it had no
inhabitants but the Indians. The Indians of Grand Manan are, like its
white inhabitants, the most daring and skillful of fishermen. It is
marvelous to see them go out in their bark canoes upon the mighty
waves that toss about those shores, and shoot porpoises, whose bodies
in some miraculous manner they drag aboard their frail craft and carry
safely to land.
The chief village on the island is Grand Harbor, situated on a
shallow bay. This village has a pretty little stone church and a typi
cal country inn. Near by are the small lakes called Grand Ponds ; and
off the harbor lie a number of small islands, connected with memories
of Audubon, who spent some time among them in 1833, studying the
habits of tho gulls. From Grand Harbor a road leads around the S.
shore to Seal Cove, and thence along the heights to Broad Cove. Nine
miles off the coast at this point lie the Wood Islands and Gannet Rock
Lighthouse. From Broad Cove a foot-path leads to Southwest Head,
a lofty promontory, amid the grasses of whose summit the sea-gulls
build their nests. Around the N. shore, 8 miles from Grand Harbor,
lies Whale Cove, with surpassing views, and a beach on which one
may pick up jasper and agates. Close by is Eel Brook Cove, where
the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, with the loss of all on board.
A little farther to the N. is the cape called Bishop's Head, with a pro
file thought to resemble that of a human face. Between Grand Harbor
and Whale Cove we pass through Woodward's Cove, Flagg's Cove, and
the matchlessly picturesque and artistic village of Sprague's Cove nest
ling under the S. shore of the high and storm-beaten peninsula called
Swallow-tail Head. The W. coast is a frowning wall of cliffs from
300 to 400 ft. high, in which are the wild and romantic indenta
tions of Dark Cove and Money Cove, where the ubiquitous Captain
Kidd is supposed to have buried some of his treasure. On this coast

186 BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK.
also is Indian beach, where a number of the Quoddy Indians pass the
summer engaged in the porpoise-fishery already referred to. The
island is in telegraphic communication with the mainland by a subma
rine cable to Eastport. Very lately one or two small hotels have been
erected, the most prominent of which is the Marble Ridge House, near
North Head.
In the time of Charlevoix, if we may trust that ancient chronicler,
there existed off the coast of Grand Manan a marvel, the vanishing of
which can not be too deeply deplored. " It is even asserted that at
three fourths of a league off Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to
vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always covered
by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de
Razilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys,
who had seen it, says that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce."
The Return to St. John.
To St. John we may go either by boat or by rail. To go by boat
we take the steamer Charles Houghton from Si. Stephen or 81. An
drews to Eastport, and thence the International S. S. Co. boat along
the coast to St. John, past Deer Island, through Friar's Road and the
Eastern Passage, through wonderful fishing waters, usually dotted with
boats and sails, past the West Isles and the grim and terrible rocks
called the Wolves, past the far-seen headland of Point Lepreaux, then
the landmark called Split Rock, and round the dark mass of Partridge
Island into the St. John Harbor.
To go by rail, we take the Grand Southern or Shore Line at Si.
Stephen, its western terminus. It is proposed to continue this line
westward through the coast towns of Maine to Bangor. Between St.
Stephen and St. John by rail is a distance of 82 miles. The first sta
tion out of St. Stephen is Oak Bay (15 miles); then come Dyer's (20
miles). Bonny River (24 miles), and St. George (35 miles). This pretty
little town has an extensive trade in lumber and in the magnificent
product of its red granite quarries. The town is on a high plain. Be
side it flows the Magaguadavic (commonly called Magadavy), which
plunges into the harbor over a fall of 100 ft., through a chasm not
more than 30 ft. in width. On the sides of the gorge cling saw-mills,
from which the new-cut deals are sluiced into the foaming basin below.
Near St. George, in a nest among the rounded hills, is the lovely water

THE RETURN TO ST. JOHN. 187
called Lake Utopia, wherein one may find some good trout-fishing. The
population of St. George is 4,000 and odd. Beyond St. George are the
stations of Pennficld (46 miles), New River (53 miles), Lepreaux (58
miles), Lancaster (66 miles), Musquash (73 miles), and Spruce Lake
(75 miles). Spruce Lake is 7 miles from St. John. It is a pretty
sheet of water, 5 miles in length, and abundantly stocked with perch.
It is the source from which Carleton draws its water-supply. Between
Spruce Lake and Carleton extends the pretty drive known as the
Mahogany Road. The fare between St. Stephen and St. John is $2.50.
From Moncton to Amherst.
Leaving Moncton by the Halifax Express our first stoppage is at
Painsec Junction, a distance of 8 miles. Thence, passing Meadow
Brook, we run down the valley of ,the Memramcook to the prosperous
Acadian farming village of the same name, the seat of St. Joseph's
College. Eight miles farther on, 27 miles from Moncton, is the sleepy
but beautiful little town of Dorchester, the shire town of the rich
county of Westmoreland. Dorchester was once a great ship-building
center, and contains much wealth, though its business is decaying. It
has handsome private residences, important freestone quarries, and
the questionable attraction of the Maritime Provinces Penitentiary,
which draws some visitors to Dorchester who might not go there oth
erwise. From Dorchester the railroad runs across the top of the long penin
sula between Shepody Bay and Cumberland Basin, and strikes the lat
ter at the growing town of Sackville, 38 miles from Moncton. Sackville
is not a pretty town, but it is prosperous and progressive. It has a
population of nearly 2,000, and is thinly spread out over a succession
of low hills of rich red soil, overlooking the Great Tanlramar Marshes
and the mouth of the Tautramar River. The town has foundries and
factories, is the center of a boundlessly rich agricultural region, and
the western terminus of the Cape Tormentine Railway, so called, whose
official title, The New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island Railway,
is somewhat large for so small a road, but 37 miles in length. It
also has the important educational institutions of Mount Allison Col
lege and Seminary and Boys' School, under the auspices of the Meth
odists. The chief hotel is the Brunswick House. Sackville is a ship
building center ; and all along the picturesque road, which leads through

188 FROM MONCTON TO AMHERST.
the villages of Westcock, Woodpoint, and Rockport, down the penin
sula to North Joggins, one may see a ship on the stocks in almost every
tidal creek. If the tide is out, the big vessel appears as if she were
being built far inland, on a rivulet not large enough to float her jolly-
boat ; but at high tide this rill becomes a full-bosomed estuary, and
the new-launched ship is carried easily from her birthplace.
Leaving Sackville Station the train crosses the Tantramar and runs
out upon the marshes. The river, whose name is a corruption of
its old French appellation, Tintamarre, signifying " a hubbub," is a
typical tidal stream. At low water its broad and winding channel
is a deep gash of livid red across the fair green face of the marshes.
The steep sides glisten in the sun, cut sharply here and there by
the paths of tributary brooks. Along the bottom, 60 or 70 ft. below
the level of the marshes, clamors the fresh-water-stream. Presently
the tide returns, red and foaming, and the noisy current rushes far in
land, resting not till the chasm is full to its grassy brim. Then begins
the emptying process, which goes on with increasing haste and tumult
to the utmost of the ebb. The Great Tantramar Marsh, over which we
now run, contains more than 40 square miles of inexhaustibly fertile
salt meadow, reclaimed from tho sea by dikes. About the head of the
marsh lie bogs and pools, which are famous shooting-grounds; and
over it, in all directions, feed in the autumn great flocks of plover. In
early summer, before the mowing, the level expanse is a lovely sight,
with its rich green crop bending all one way before the ceaseless
winds, varied along the meandering dikes, that follow every creek
channel, with lines of wild-rose thicket and beds of purple vetch. We
are now on the Isthmus of Chignecto, connecting New Brunswick with
the Acadian Peninsula, now called Nova Scotia. The length of
this isthmus is the distance between Sackville on the N. side and
Amherst on the S., about 10 miles. Its width, betweeu the waters
of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and those of the Bay of Fundy, is about
17 miles. The whole region is most interesting, as well geologically
as historically. Most of it is salt marsh, beneath whose surface,
at a depth of many feet, diggings have revealed the remains of ancient
forests, proving that the district was once upland. At present one
portion of the shore is slowly continuing its submergence, while the
other is rising at about the same rate. The alluvial deposit produces
year after year the heaviest crops of grass, and requires no fertilizer
but mud from the neighboring creek channels, or a flooding from the

The Steamer Arctic crossing from the Mainland to Prince Edward Island.

FROM MONCTON TO AMHERST. 189
tide. The historic interest of the region centers around the old Fort
Cumberland, or "Beausejour," which stands about midway across the
isthmus, on a long ridge of uplands just beyond Aulac Station.
The old French Fort of Beausejour figures very prominently in the
enchanting pages of Parkman. It played an important part in those
events which culminated in the expulsion of the Acadians in 1755.
When Acadie was ceded finally to England, the French claimed that
the name applied only to the peninsula, and not to that portion of old
Acadie which now constitutes New Brunswick. They made tho line of
the Missiguash (a tidal stream cleaving the marshes just S. E. of
Beausejour) the dividing line between French and English territory, and
raised the strong fort of Beausejour to guard these limits. A little
beyond the Missiguash runs a line of low uplands, on which the English
erected the opposing stronghold of Fort Lawrence. Back of Fort Law
rence, on undoubtedly English territory, clustered the thriving Acadian
village of Beaubassin. Between the rival forts went on continual
skirmishings. Beausejour was a center of operations for the unscru
pulous Abbe Le Loutre, who devoted his energies to keeping the sore
open between the Acadians of the peninsula and their new masters.
Many of these Acadians he forced by threats and actual violence to de-
sert their farms and remove to French territory, where many of them
suffered every privation. When he saw the village of Beaubassin
prosperous and growing content with English rule, he and his Indian
followers burnt the settlement, and compelled the villagers to gather
about Beausejour. On one occasion, when a party of English, under
Lieutenant Howe, were approaching from Fort Lawrence with a flag of
truce, they were fired upon by the abbe's Christianized savages from
behind a dike, and Howe was slain. For this infamous piece of treach
ery Le Loutre was openly blamed by the French officers of Beausejour,
and his unscrupulous policy incurred also the reprobation of the best
of the Acadian parish priests. In 1755 Governor Shirley, of Massa
chusetts, and Governor Lawrence, of Nova Scotia, undertook the re
duction of Beausejour. The Massachusetts troops were led by Colonel
John Winslow. The whole expedition was commanded by General
Monckton. The French defense, conducted by the disreputable com
mandant Vergor, a tool of Bigot's, was of the feeblest. Le Loutre
proved himself by far the better soldier. To this day we may see in
the vaulted ceiling of the bomb-proof the great hole made by an
English shell which came through when the officers were at breakfast,.

190 FROM MONCTON TO AMHERST.
and in its explosion killed six of them, together with an English
officer who had been taken prisoner a few days before. This settled
the contest ; and, in spite of the passionate protest of Le Loutre and
one or two officers, Vergor capitulated. In the evening a body of
British troops marched in, and Vergor celebrated his brilliant defense
by a dinner to the French and English officers — at which, however,
Le Loutre was not present, having escaped in disguise. After its
capture the fort was rechristened Fort Cumberland.
After rounding the slope of Fort Cumberland we cross the Missi
guash and come to Fort Lawrence Station, whence we see a little to
our right the works of the Chignecto Ship Railway — which will
be most conveniently visited, however, from Amherst, a couple of miles
beyond. On the skirts of Amherst we cross the little tidal stream of
the La Planche, and, quitting the marshes, run into the busy depot,
thronged with freight-cars.
As soon as we crossed the Missiguash we were in the province of Nova
Scotia, which will be referred to more fully in another place. Amherst
is a very busy town, whose population of between 4,000 and 5,000
is increasing with great rapidity. It lies 49 miles from Moncton, 138
from Halifax. Its people are remarkable for their enterprise. It has
a number of handsome public and private buildings, along with much
of the crudity of a new town. With a rich agricultural and mining
country behind it, and its practical control of the traffic of the Ship
Railway, now nearly completed, the outlook is very bright for the future
of Amherst. It has a short railway running down the coast to the
coal-mines of South Joggins, interesting to visitors as the place where
the monster rafts of logs are put together to be towed to the New
York market. But, of course, the chief " lion " of Amherst, which
can not but continue a perennial attraction to tourists, is the Ship Rail
way just mentioned.
The originator and promoter of the Chignecto Ship Railway is Mr.
H. G. C. Ketchum, M. I. C. E., a distinguished Canadian engineer, who
advocated the scheme for years before he could convince people of its
feasibility. Ever since the beginning of the century there has been a
demand for a canal across the isthmus, in the way of which, however,
there have always been found great difficulties. All the purposes of a
canal, and many more, will be served by the ship railway at a much
less cost. Associated with Mr. Ketchum in the enterprise are the great
English engineers. Sir John Fowler and Sir Benjamin Baker. The

Cape Porcupine. Cape St. George, from Hastings.

FROM MONCTON TO AMHERST. 191
broad road-bed, carrying a double track 18 ft. wide from center to
center, runs from the mouth of the La Planche to Tidnish on North
umberland Strait. A vast dock is being constructed at each terminus.
At the inner end of the dock is a lifting-dock 230 ft. long by 60 ft.
wide, on which ships of 1,000 tons will be lifted by powerful hydraulic
presses a height of 40 ft. without disturbing their cargoes o. their pas
sengers. The ship-carriage, on which the ship will be hauled by two
gigantic locomotives harnessed abreast, so to speak, is called the cradle,
and divides the great weight on 240 wheels. The cradle is 235 ft. long,
and may carry either one large ship or two smaller vessels. By this
route ships from the St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes for St. John
and the New England coast, which now have to go through the Gut of
Canso, or in some weather all the way round Cape Breton, will save in
the former case 500 miles, in the latter case 700 miles. The amount
of tonnage belonging to St. Lawrence and Fundy ports, which may be
expected tj make use of this ship railway, amounted, in 1888, to not
less than 10,182,327 tons, which is exclusive of the lake fleets and the
American fishing fleets. The toll on the railway will be 50 cents a ton
on cargoes and 12 cents a ton on hulls. The railway will cost about
$6,000,000. When it is completed a line of steamers will run between
St. John and Charlottetown, and the traveler will have the novel ex
perience of watching from his vessel's decks a lovely landscape of
meadows and orchards unroll below him as he moves slowly across the
isthmus. The sensation will be unique, as this is the world's only ship
railway. At present we reach Fort Lawrence and the railway works by
a drive across the marsh from Amherst, but it is proposed to
open shortly an electric railway between the two points. The Tid
nish terminus is reached by stage from Amherst. The best hotels
of Amherst are the Terrace Hotel and the Lamy House. From here
we may continue on by the Intercolonial Railway to Truro, a dis
tance of 76 miles, and thence either to Halifax or to Pictou, P. E.
Island, and Cape Breton. The route we propose following at present,
however, now takes us back to Painsec Junction, 8 miles this side
of Moneton.

192 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.
The fare from Moncton to Charlottetown by way of Point du
Chene and Summerside is $3.50 ; return, $5.30. From Painsec Junction
to Point du Chene is 1 2 miles. Nine miles from the Junction we come
to the pretty summer resort of Shediac, a village famous for its oysters
and its sea-bathing. Shediac has a very good hotel, the Weldon House,
and is much frequented during the hot months by the citizens of Monc
ton, who are driven from their homes by a combination of dust and heat.
At Shediac the tide flows in over long stretches of red and sun-warmed
sand, and its temperature at high water is luxurious. Point du Chene
is a sandy promontory 3 miles long, running out from Shediac into the
waters of Northumberland Strait. About its wharves clusters a village.
From this point the fine steamers of the P. E. I. Navigation Co. sail
daily for Summerside on the arrival of the morning express from St.
John. The steamboat fare from Shediac to Summerside is $1.50. The
distance is 35 miles. Our first sight of .the island is a glimpse of the
low red cliffs of Cape Egmont, far on our left. Soon afterward we are
steaming up Bedeque Bay, at the head of which lies the prosperous and
dusty ship-building town of Summerside, with a population of some
thing over 3,000 and a heavy export trade in agricultural produce.
The Island Province, the smallest of the confederation, is sometimes
called the Garden of Canada. It is separated from New Brunswick
and Nova Scotia by Northumberland Strait, whose ice in winter some
times shuts off the island from communication with the rest of the
world. Such intercourse as is then irregularly achieved is carried on
with difficulty and danger by means of open boats, which are alter
nately dragged over the ice-cakes and pushed through the loose ice for
a distance oJ 9 miles between Cape Traverse on the island and Cape
Tormentine on the New Brunswick shore. The Canadian Government
spends great sums every year in the effort to keep open during
the winter a mail and passenger communication, and has had con
structed a powerful steamer, the Stanley, especially designed for pene
trating the ice. This boat, however, can not be said to meet all the
requirements of the case. The islanders are demanding a tunnel or
a subway between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and, gigan
tic as the scheme appears, it will doubtless ere long become an ac
complished fact.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 193
The extreme length of Prince Edward Island is 150 miles and its
greatest width 34 miles. Owing to its numerous bays and inlets it has
an enormous extent of coast-line. It has no lofty hills, no rocks, no
barrens, but is everywhere cultivable. Its soil is a rich, red loam, mar
velously productive, from the prevailing color of which the islanders
get their local nickname of " Redfeet," to distinguish them from the
" Bluenoses " of Nova Scotia and the " Buckwheats " of New Bruns
wick. The island is particularly noted for its oats, potatoes, horses,
and oysters, and has fisheries of great value. There is some good
trout-fishing in the little rivers which intersect the island, and along in
June fascinating sport may be had with a scarlet fly, casting in the
bays and inlets for the sea-trout, which at that season come in in great
numbers from the gulf. These are a magnificent game-fish, running
from 3 to 5 pounds in weight, and are usually taken by casting from
side to side while running before a light breeze. One of the best
places for this fishing is St. Peter's Bay, about 30 miles from Char
lottetown, the provincial metropolis.
The history of the island is not exciting, and derives such color as
it has chiefly from the Acadians. It is said to have been visited by
Cabot in 1497. Champlain considered himself its discoverer, touching
its shores on St. John's day, 1608, and naming it, with his usual lack
of invention, Isle St. Jean. At this time it was inhabited by the Mic-
macs, who gave it the name of Epayguit, or, as it is better spelled,
Abegweit, which signifies " Anchored on the Wave." Early in the
eighteenth century, when England had conquered Nova Scotia, a few
Acadians moved to the island, where they prospered so that the settle
ment rapidly increased. In 1758, when it was taken possession of by
the English, it had a population of 4,100 Acadians. In 1763 it be
came a part of Nova Scotia, and was granted in lots to 100 English
and Scotch gentlemen, who undertook to colonize their grants within
ten years. In 1770 the island was made a. separate province, and its
infant capital was captured by the Americans in 1775, who, however,
did not hold it long. In lS^O it received its present name, in honor of
the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria. In 1803, 800 Scotch
Highlanders were settled in the island by the Earl of Selkirk, and the
population increased rapidly by immigration. The province entered
the Canadian Confederation in 1873.
From Summerside, whose chief hotels are Campbell's and the Maw-
ley House (known also as the Clifton), one may follow the P. E. I.
13

194 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.
R. R. north through St. Eleanors, Miscouche, Wellington, Port Hill (a
ship-building village on Richmond Bay), Richmond, Northam, Port
Hill, Ellerslie, Conway, Portage (where the island is not more than
4 or 5 miles wide), Colman, O'Leary, Bloomfield, Elmsdale, all com
paratively uninteresting little settlements, and run into Alberton, 55
miles from Summerside. This is a prosperous ship-building and fish
ing village on Cascumpeque Harbor, and has about 900 inhabitants.
It is interesting as the birthplace of the Gordons, the two mission
ary martyrs of Eromanga. The chief inn of Alberton is the Albion
House. Leaving Alberton we pass the stations of Montrose, Kildare,
and De Blois, and reach the northern terminus at Tignish, 68 miles
from Summerside. This little village of Scotch and Acadian Cath
olics is an important fishing center. It has a village inn called
Ryan's Hotel. A drive 8 miles northward through the sand-hills brings
us to the land's-end of the province, North Cape.
From Summerside to Charlottetown, a distance of 49 miles, we
traverse a pretty pastoral country, whose endless succession of farms
and farming hamlets wear an unvarying air of prosperity and com
fort. The journey stands out in one's memory chiefly on account of
the curious little railway, with its gauge of only 3 ft. 6 inches, winding
hither and thither as if to visit every farmer's door. It is said that a
tourist was once startled by what appeared to be a train about to crash
into the rear car of that on which he was traveling. It turned out,
however, to be only the locomotive of his own train, which was round
ing a peculiarly exaggerated curve. Just beyond Summerside the
island is but a little over 3 miles wide, being almost severed here by
Richmond Bay on the one side and Bedeque Bay on the other. Nine
miles from Summerside is the station of Kensington, whence a road
leads to Princetown, a village on the N. shore, which was laid out in
squares as a town, and still awaits the population that never came.
Near by, on the safe harbor of Malpeque, is the village of the same
name, a pleasant watering-place, with a comfortable inn called the
North. Shore Hotel. Leaving Kensington we pass the stations of
Blueshank and Freetown, and come to Emerald Junction, whence a rail
road runs to Cape Traverse. The succeeding stations are of no inter
est till we come to Hunter River, a good trout-stream, whence a high
way leads N. to the villages of New Glasgow and Rustico. The latter
is a quiet and delightful summer resort, with a small but good summer
hotel, the Rustico House, on the sands of Rustico Beach. There are good

I7ie Oldest House in Prince Edward Island.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 195
bathing and boating in the harbor, which is rendered unsafe, however,
for ships of any size, by its shifting sand-bars, thrown up by the gulf
waves. There are also good shooting and fishing in the neighborhood.
The village has but 250 inhabitants, yet it is daring enough to own a
bank — the Farmers' Bank of Rustico — whose charter, we understand,
expires in the near future. Along the shore to the eastward lie Shaw's
Beach, with a good summer hotel (Shaw's), and Tracadie Harbor
(Lome Hotel), which are favorite resorts for the citizens of Charlotte
town. The villages of Tracadie and Covehead are Gaelic settlements,
and near by, on French Fort Creek, stood of old a French fortress, pro
tecting the short portage of 1£ miles from the head of the Hillsborough
River to Tracadie Harbor.
From Hunter River Station we pass North Wiltshire, Colville, Mil
ton, Winsloe, and arrive at Royalty Junction, whence diverge the lines
to Georgetown and Souris. Six miles more and we sweep around the
city of Charlottetown, and enter the depot on the E., between the city
and the Hillsborough River. In the depot the train, on its narrow,
shining rails, looks more than ever like a toy affair.
Charlottetown.
The chief hotel of Charlottetown, a fairly satisfactory hostelry, is
the Hotel Davies. There is also the Osborne, a comfortable house.
Their coaches meet the trains and boats. There are no horse-cars, but
the livery charges are moderate. The steamers St. Lawrence and Prin
cess of Wales, of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Co., ply between Char
lottetown and Pictou. The steamer Carroll, of the P. E. I., Halifax,
and Boston Line, leaves once a week for Boston. Fare, $7.50. The
fortnightly boat of the Quebec S. S. Co. calls here. The little steamer
Heather Bell leaves Charlottetown for Orwell every Tuesday, Wednes
day, and Thursday. The Southport sails to West River on Tuesdays
and Fridays, and to Rocky Point every day but Mondays and Thurs
days. The steam-ferry Elfin plies between Charlottetown and South-
port every half-hour from 5 a. m. to 9 p. M.
Charlottetown lies on the N. shore of the Hillsborough River. Its
harbor is capacious and secure, and is formed by the meeting of the
Hillsborough, York, and Elliott Rivers, more generally known as East,
North, and West Rivers. The city is regularly laid out, its streets
running E. and W., and intersected by streets running N. and S.
There are 4 large squares, and the broad streets, 100 ft. in width, seem
a shade too roomy for the 11,485 inhabitants. For the most part the
buildings are of wood and entirely unimposing, but the Parliament

196 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.
Houses occupy a handsome stone structure on Queen Square, at the
head of Great George St. The same building contains the good collection
of the Legislative Library. From its cupola may be had an exceedingly
attractive and commanding view of the city and its surroundings. On
the same square, which is adorned with a fountain and well-kept
flower-beds, and where the band plays to the moving crowd on summer
evenings, stands the handsome new stone pile of the Post-Office. Near
by is the great wooden structure of the City Market, which looks like
a weather-beaten compromise between a barn and a country meeting
house. It is the thing for tourists to visit this building on market-
days in the morning, when they will see some quaint Gaelic and Acadian
types. Around this square chiefly congregate the shops of Charlotte
town. Not far down Great George St. rises the roomy Cathedral of
St. Dunstan, the seat of the Roman Catholic bishop. On Hillsborough
Square, farther to the W., is the large brick Convent of Notre Dame,
and near by are the Normal School and Prince of Wales College. In
the same quarter of the city is the parade-ground, between Sidney and
Pownal Sts., presided over by the barracks and drill-shed Still far
ther W., on a projecting point of land, occupied also by the charming
bit of woodland called the Park, the cricket and foot-ball field, and the
delightful lawn-tennis grounds, stands the Government House, with a
lovely outlook over the blue and quiet waters of the harbor. Here one
realizes that contented note of the Charlottetown landscape which led
the discoverers of the haven to call it "Port la Joie." There is capital
lawn-tennis and foot-ball playing in Charlottetown, where was held the
first tournament of the Maritime Provinces Lawn-Tennis Association.
Whether the city be found a pleasant summer resort or not depends
chiefly on the visitors'themselves. Charlottetown society is found ex
ceedingly charming and hospitable by those who go there duly accred
ited. To the absolute stranger its attractions are not great, for there
is no very remarkable scenery, and, away from the chief square, the
wide streets look all alike, and all equally uninteresting. One's im
pressions of the city may be marvelously changed by one or two letters
of introduction. Outside of the city, and overlooking it, in a region of
pleasant villas, stand the Wesleyan College and the Roman Catholic
College of St. Dunstan. By ferry one may visit the pleasant village of
Southport, on the opposite shore of the Hillsborough River, in the
neighborhood of which is the alleged height called Tea Hill, with a
sweet pastoral view from its low summit.

FROM CHARLOTTETOWN EASTWARD. 197
From Charlottetown eastward.
From Royalty Junction, 5 miles out of Charlottetown, the traveler
who wishes to do the island thoroughly may take the train eastward.
Passing the little stations of Union, York, Suffolk, Bedford, and Tra
cadie, along the fertile valley of the Hillsborough River, we come to
Mt. Stewart Junction, 22 miles from the city. At this point a branch
diverges southeastward, 24 miles to Georgetown, on the east coast ;
while the main line continues along the north shore to Souris, which is
also on the east coast some 20 miles north of Georgetown. From Mt.
Stewart Junction, a thriving village devoted to ship-building, we traverse
a rather thinly-settled country, passing the stations of Tisquid, Peak's,
Baldwin's, and Perth, till we come to the village of Cardigan, on the
head of Cardigan Bay, whence the high-road leads to Vernon River and
Fownal. It may be said here, in parentheses, that the pleasantest way to
get to Mt. Stewart Junction is by the little steamer Heather Bell from
Charlottetown. Cardigan" is 18 miles from the- junction ; and 6 miles
farther, running down the long promontory between Cardigan Bay and
Georgetown Harbor, we come to Georgetown, a prosperous village of
1,118 inhabitants, with a large shipping trade in agricultural produce.
The harbor is the best winter port on the island, and least liable to ob
struction by the ice. Steamers from Pictou for the Magdalen Islands
call here on their way. The town is well laid out, and is the county
seat of King's County, the most easterly of the three counties into
which this little province is divided. At the head of the harbor flows
in the Brudenelle River. The chief inn of Georgetown is the Com
mercial Hotel.
The more northern line to Souris reaches Morell Station 8 miles
east of Mt. Stewart. This is a fishing village on the little Morell River.
Thence the railway skirts St. Peter's Bay for 7-J- miles to the village of
St. Peter's, the chief fishing town on the north shore. The bay is
famcus for its valuable salmon-fisheries, and has been already referred
to as the best place on the island for sea-trout. Tourists in search of
this sport may stay at the little inn called the Prairie Hotel, or they
may obtain board at private houses. The bay is a fine sheet of water,
more than 7 miles in length, but its usefulness as a harbor is somewhat
impaired by the fact that there is less than 6 ft. of water on the bar
that crosses its mouth. Leaving St. Peter's we pass the stations of
Ashton, Selkirk, Bear River, New Zealand, and Harmony, whence roads

198 FROM CHARLOTTETOWN EASTWARD.
lead inland southwestward to the Gaelic settlements of Annandale,
Douglas, and Bridgetown, on Grand River, where one may study some
quaint old customs and a life that preserves its individuality with great
persistence. Souris itself, 8 miles beyond Harmony, is a Gaelic village
of 700 inhabitants, devoted to fishing and ship-building. Its harbor,
Colville Bay, is protected by a breakwater. The village carries on an
extensive trade with the French island of »S^. Pierre, off the coast of
Newfoundland. Not far from Souris lie the shallow coast pools of
East and North Lakes ; and beyond, the island runs off to a beacon-
guarded termination at East Point.
At Souris or Georgetown one may take the steamer Beaver for the
Magdalen Islands, if the attractions of remoteness and sea-trout
fishing prevail. The Beaver leaves Picton, N. S., every Monday on the
arrival of the Halifax express, and calls at Georgetown and Souris.
The fare from Georgetown is $4. The Magdalen Islands are a group
of thirteen, most of them connected by sand-3pits bare at low tide.
They lie in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between Prince Edward Island
and the west coast of Newfoundland, about 50 miles from East Point,
already mentioned. The chief island is called Amherst, and this
island, with Alright, Grindstone, and Entry Islands, partially incloses a
roadstead in which the fleets of the gulf, caught in this neighborhood
in a gale, take refuge. The islands, however, have no harbors proper
that are safely accessible in a storm, and they are a good place to keep
away from in bad weather. Their shores are lined with wrecks. In
the dreadful " Lord's Day Gale," celebrated in Stedman's noble ballad,
the loss of life about the Magdalens was appalling. Out to sea, off the
west of Amherst, lies the dread rock of Deadman's Isle, mentioned
in Tom Moore's lines :
" To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast,
To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast ;
By skeleton shapes her sails are furled,
And the hand that steers is not of this world."
Off to the north lie the most outlying members of the group, Bryon
Island, rivaling Perce Rock as a nesting-place for sea-birds, and the
two desolate Bird Rocks. On one of these, which carries a powerful
light, placed there with great expense and peril by the Canadian Gov
ernment, a landing is effected only by means of a great swinging crane
projecting from the cliff, on which visitors are hoisted in a cradle. One
of the most important and central islands of the group is called Coffin

Old Fireplace at Entry Island.

FROM CHARLOTTETOWN EASTWARD. 199
Island — not from its shape or any sinister association, but in honor of
Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, to whom, in 1798, the islands were granted
in fee simple, and whose heir, Admiral Coffin, now holds them. The
population of the islands is now a little over 3,000, mostly Acadian
French, and all are tenants of Admiral Coffin, who exacts the heavy
rent of one shilling per acre, payable at the convenience of the occupant.
The islands lie within the province of Quebec. A perfect view of them
may be had from the summit of Entry Island, 580 ft. above the sea.
The Magdalens are visited by few tourists, and those few have to
put .up with somewhat primitive though always hospitable entertain
ment. Among tne islands one may enjoy the finest of sea-tvout fish
ing ; and in the small brooks, which constitute the islanders' rivers, one
may catch magnificent trout, that look strangely out of proportion to
the waters they frequent. During the cod and mackerel seasons the
island waters are thronged with American and Canadian fishing-fleets,
and patrolled by the Dominion cutter La Canadienne to prevent foreign
boats from fishing within the three-mile limits. In winter the occupa
tion of the inhabitants is seal-fishing, a perilous business, in which
some lives are lost every season. The seals are swept upon the shores
on fields of ice drifting down from the N. ; and sometimes the ice
fields drift away again, when the wind changes, carrying with them
some of the too-venturous hunters.
The Magdalens have, perhaps, the best lobster-grounds on the con
tinent, and the canning establishments there do an immense business.
The chief village is on Amherst Island, fronting on Pleasant Bay, and
contains the unimposing public buildings. Overlooking the settlement
is a conical height called "La Demoiselle," from whose peak one sees
a broad and varied panorama. The prominent landmarks of the group,
besides this hill and the islands already described, are the striking emi
nences of Cap de Meule, Le Vieux, and la Vieille. The sand-beaches
connecting the islands are at times very dangerous from shifting quick
sands. In places the sand is covered with water to a depth of several
feet, and the fordable spots are marked out by scant rows of saplings
stuck insecurely into the bottom. The communication between the
islands by these beaches is perilous and often impossible when the
wind is strong. The group is connected with the outer world by a sub
marine cable running to Prince Edward Island ; but this institution
does not seem to meet with much patronage, and Mr. S. G. W. Benja
min, in an entertaining paper on the Magdalens, in the Century Maga-

200 NOVA SCOTIA.
zine for May, 1884, tells that at the time of his visit the operator was
away enjoying an extended vacation on the mainland while the cable
rested unused. (Mr. Benjamin's book, " The Cruise of the Alice May,"
which describes a voyage around the coast of the Maritime Provinces
and the outlying islands, is published by D. Appleton & Co.) On the
Magdalens is situated a large nunnery, whose occupants doubtless find
there the ideal of cloistral seclusion.

NOVA SCOTIA.
The province of Nova Scotia consists of the storied peninsula of
Old Acadie and the Island of Cape Breton. It is the most easterly
province of the Dominion, and is connected with New Brunswick by
the Isthmus of Chignecto, already described. Its length is 300 miles,
its extreme breadth 100, and its coast-line is deeply indented by bays
and roomy harbors. Its rivers, of which the more important are the
Liverpool, La Have, Shubenacadie, Avon, and Annapolis, are not of
great length, but are important on account of their large estuaries.
The surface of the province is diversified by long, parallel ranges of
hills and valleys running E. and W. No other part of Canada can
surpass this province in the variety and abundance of its natural re
sources. In regard to soil and climate its agricultural districts are not
excelled by the most favored portions of Ontario. It has immense
lumbering, fishing, and ship-building interests. Its coal, gold, iron,
and plaster mines are famous the world over. Other mineral products
of Nova Scotia are silver, tin, zinc, copper, manganese, plumbago,
granite, marble, limestone, grindstones; and the province also pro
duces good specimens of garnet, amethyst, topaz, opal, cairngorm,
agate, heliotrope, jasper, and chalcedony. The forests are still fairly
stocked with large and small game; and the province contains many
excellent trout and salmon waters, though in this respect it hardly
competes with New Brunswick. The population of Nova Scotia in 1881
was 440,572, and the census of 1891 will show a heavy increase.
In historic associations Nova Scotia is not less richly furnished
than Quebec. It was visited by the Norsemen in the eleventh century,
and rediscovered by Sebastian Cabot in 1498. Attempts were made
to colonize the country by France in 1518; and by Portugal between
1520 and 1530, when a royal commission was given to Joan Alvarez

Tlie Mail-boat at Prince Edward Island.

NOVA SCOTIA. 201
Fagundez, and two ships sailed to Cape Breton with colonists. The
earliest approximately correct map of Nova Scotia is that of a Portu
guese, Diego Homem, and bears date of 1558. The Portuguese were
not very successful in their colonizing efforts, but they did succeed in
colonizing with cattle and swine the dreadful sand-bank of Sable
Island, off the S. E. coast of Nova Scotia — a deed for which in later
years many a shipwrecked seaman has had cause to remember them
with gratitude. In such names as Blomidon, Minas, Bay of Fundy
(Baya Fondo), and others, the Portuguese have left on these coasts
the memory of their explorations. The name of Acadie itself is a
Micmac word, meaning " a region of plenty " — and is the same as the
Melicite word " Quoddy." Sbubenacadie means "a place of plenty of
ground-nuts," just as Passamaquoddy means a place of plenty of had
dock. The influence of the French soon became dominant in these
regions, and they adopted the Micmac name, which was anglicized by
the English claimants into Acadia. The first successful settlement in
Acadie was that planted in 1605 at Port Royal, by Champlain, after
his winter of horrors at the St. Croix mouth. Unique and interesting,
though a most disastrous failure, was the colonizing enterprise of Mar
quis de la Roche in 1598. Of this attempt the theatre was Sable
Island, which, as it is more interesting to read about than to visit, may
be referred to here. As its name implies, this island is a bank of
sand, a deposit of the drift of meeting currents. It lies 90 miles S. E.
of. Nova Scotia, and is the center of fogs and fiercest storms. Its
shape is roughly that of a crescent, 22 miles long by 2 wide, and a
shallow pocl divides it from end to end. Its position is shifting grad
ually eastward, and the dreadful wrecks of which it is from time to
time the scene have won it the name of the " Charnel-house of North
America." De la Roche, being made Viceroy of Canada and Acadie,
set sail for his new dominions with a ship-load of convicts for colonists.
Approaching the Acadian coasts he conceived, in his prudence, the
design of landing his dangerous charge upon the Isle of Sable, till he
might go and prepare for them, on the mainland, a place of safety.
The 40 convicts, selected from the chief prisons of France, were landed
through the uproar of the surf, and the ship made haste away from the
perilous shore. But she came not back again ! De la Roche reached
Acadie, chose a site for his settlement, and set out for the island to
fetch his expectant colonists. But a great gale swept him back to
France and drove him upon the Breton coast, where the Duke de Mer-

202 NOVA SCOTIA.
coeur, at that time warring against the king, seized him, cast him into
prison, and held him close for five years. Meanwhile those left on the
island were delighted enough. They were free, and began to forget
the scourge and chain. Beside the unstable hummocks and hills of
sand they found a shallow lake of sweet waters, the shores of which
were clothed luxuriantly with long grass, and lentils, and vines of
vetch. Lurking in any or every portion of the grass-plain were little
cup-like hollows, generally filled with clear water. Every such pool,
like the lake, was alive with ducks and other water-fowl, among which
the joyous ex-convicts created consternation. There were wild cattle
also, trooping and lowing among the sand-hills or feeding belly-deep in
the rank water-grasses ; while herds of wild hogs, introduced years be
fore by the Portuguese, disputed the shallow pools with the mallard
and teal. The weather for a while kept fine, and the winds compara
tively temperate, and the sojourners held a carnival of liberty and in
dolence. But this was not for long, and as the skies grew harsher
their plight grew harder. As the weeks slipped into months they grew
first impatient, then solicitous, then despairing. Their provisions fell
low, and at last the truth was staring them in the face — they were de
serted. From the wrecks upon the shore they built themselves at first
a rude shelter, which the increasing cold and storms soon drove them
to perfect with their most cunning skill. As their stores diminished,
they looked on greedily and glared at each other with jealous eyes.
Soon quarrels broke out with but little provocation, and were settled
by the knife with such fatal frequency that the members of the colony
shrank apace. As they had been provided with no means of lighting
fires, they soon had to live on the raw flesh of the wild cattle, and little
by little they learned the lesson, and began to relish such fare. Little
by little, too, as their garments fell to pieces, they replaced them with
skins of the seals that swarmed about the beach ; and their hut they
lined with hides from the cattle they had slaughtered. As the months
became years their deadly contests ceased, but exposure, and frost, and
hunger, and disease kept thinning their ranks. They occupied them
selves in pursuing the seal for its skin, the walrus for its ivory. They
had gathered a great store of sealskins, ivory, and hides, but now only
twelve men remained to possess these riches. Their beards had giown
to their waists, their skins were like the furs that covered them, their
nails were like birds' claws, their eyes gleamed with a sort of shy
ferocity through the long, matted tangle of their hair. At last, from

NOVA SCOTIA. 203
out of his prison, De la Roche got word to the king, telling him of
their miserable fortune, and a ship was at once sent out to rescue
them. In 1621 the territory of Acadia, then named by the English Nova
Scotia, was granted to Sir William Alexander ; and a year or two later
was created the order of " Knights Baronets of Nova Scotia," each of
whom received a grant of 18 square miles of territory.
In 1632 Nova Scotia was relinquished to France and fell a prey to
the struggles between La Tour and Charnisay, already referred to. In
1654 it was again captured by England, but soon reverted to France.
In 1690 it was captured and overrun by New-Englanders, after hav
ing been raised - into a populous colony by the forty years' rule of the
Company of New France. In 1697 it was again restored to the French.
Massachusetts sent out unsuccessful expeditions against the Acadian
strongholds in 1703 and 1707, and succeeded in her design at last in
1710; and by the Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, the country was finally
ceded to England. These struggles and interchanges went on with the
accompaniment of innumerable romantic and heroic episodes, which
make the annals of Nova Scotia an especially interesting field of study.
In 1749 was founded the city of Halifax. The forty years intervening
between the Treaty of Utrecht and the expulsion of the Acadians, in
1755, were marked by internal disorders, conflict, and bloodshed, the
result of the Acadian and Indian hostility to English rule.
The tragedy of 1755 will be referred to more fully in connection
with the description of Grand Pre. In 1783 the population of the
province was increased by the immigration of 20,000 United Empire
Loyalists ; and in the following year two new provinces were erected
out of portions of Nova Scotia territory — one of them, New Bruns
wick, permanently, and the other Cape Breton, as it proved, but tem
porarily. During the War of 1812 Nova Scotia suffered from the
depredations of American privateers. In 1867 the province joined
with Quebec, Ontario, and New Brunswick to form the confederation
known as the Dominion of Canada.

To Pictou and Antigonish.
From Charlottetown to Pictou by boat is a thoroughly delightful
sail of about 50 miles. The fare is $2. As we approach Pictou Har
bor we pass the farms, lighthouse, and wooded hills of Pictou Island,

204 TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH.
and more remote the group of isles and sand-beaches known as Caribou
Island. Sailing up the harbor we get a thoroughly satisfactory view of
this noble water, whose high and varied shores, well populated in al
most every direction, give it the charm of pieturesqueness, and whose
safe and commodious anchorage constitutes it the best haven on the
north coast of Nova Scotia. The town of Pictou is handsomely
situated on a hill-side overlooking the harbor. Its site was of old
occupied by a town of the Micmacs, who called the place " Pik-took,"
from the gases escaping from the coal-beds underlying the harbor.
The neighborhood is rich in legends of Gluskap, the Micmac demigod,
who halted here on his journey to Newfoundland to punish the wizards
of that island who had slain his servants. Here, too, took place some
sanguinary battles between the Micmacs and the Mohawks, and to this
day the name of the latter is a terror to the Indians of Pictou. The
first settlement at this point was begun in 1767 by a small party of
Philadelphians. It is said that Franklin was interested in the enter
prise ; which, however, made but sorry progress till the arrival of a
body of Scotch Highlanders in 1773. The ultimate success of these
immigrants attracted many more of the same race ; and these colonists,
being intensely loyal, gradually crowded out the first settlers, whose
sympathies were with the Thirteen Colonies during the American War
of Independence. The town was founded in 1788; and between 1805
and 1820, when the Baltic ports were closed against Great Britain,
Pictou made great progress as a lumbering and ship-building port.
Thereafter the development of the coal industry, of which Pictou
County is one of the chief centers on the continent, continued the era
of prosperity. At present, though Pictou has considerable wealth, and
some mills and factories to depend upon besides her shipping interests,
the town is not making much progress, and stands at a population of
between 3,000 and 4,000, much of her business being appropriated by
her bustling young rival, New Glasgow. Pictou has some fine public
buildings, prominent among which is that of the Pictou Academy, con
taining a fine library and museum. This institution has played a most
important part in the education of the province, and counts among its
graduates some of the most distinguished of Canadians — among them
President Sir William Dawson, of McGill University, and Principal
Grant, of Queen's University. The Young Men's Christian Association
Building attracts attention, and the spiritual needs of the towns-folk
are supplied by a round half-dozen churches. Around the shore of the

TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH. 205
harbor, opposite Pictou, are the huge, black wharves of the various
coal-mining companies. About the same point the harbor branches
into three arms, the estuaries of East, West, and Middle Rivers. The
town is a pleasant place to visit in the summer, having excellent boat
ing and sea-bathing, lawn-tennis, some pleasant society, and one com
fortable hotel, the Revere House.
From Pictou the railway runs around the north of the harbor 14
miles to Stellarton, where it connects with the Eastern Extension of the
Intercolonial R. R. Stellarton is a thriving but dingy town of about
3,000 inhabitants, and has grown up about the famous Albion Coal and
Iron Mines. No one stops at Stellarton if he can help it ; for 2 miles
eastward by rail is the energetic and growing town of New Glasgow,
with a population of between 4,000 and 5,000, and two fairly com
fortable hotels ambitiously styled the Windsor and the Vendome.
New Glasgow is a great ship-building and coal-mining center, and is
rapidly developing a large manufacturing interest. It has tanneries
and foundries, and has lately started, under most favorable auspices,
extensive steel and glass works. Good public buildings are rapidly
going up, and everything points to a most prosperous future for the
town. A coal railway runs down the south of the harbor to the coal
wharves and ferry opposite Pictou. At the lower end of the town a
draw-bridge crosses the East River, here a narrow stream, which the
citizens of New Glasgow propose to make the Clyde of Canada. Up
its northern shore runs for a short distance, to the Albion Mines, a
quaint railway, the oldest in America. The massive old rust-eaten
rails are of a very curious pattern ; but such is the excellence of their
construction that they still do their work.
The eastern extension of the I. C. R., running to Mulgrave on the
Strait of Canso, has within the past year been still farther extended to
run through a portion of Cape Breton. Between New Glasgow, which we
leave at about 1 1 o'clock, and Aniigonish, a distance of 42 miles, we get
some occasional bits of good scenery ; but the nine intervening stations
are of little interest. A prosperous ship-building village is Merigomish,
14 miles from New Glasgow, with valuable coal and iron mines, and a
fine harbor. Another of these stations is somewhat interesting, on ac
count of its quaint name of Marshy Hope. As we near Antigonish,
descending through the passes of the surrounding hills, the scene
changes. Antigonish is a beautiful, clean, little pastoral town, set in
a broad green amphitheatre, whose meadow floor is watered by a

206 TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH.
pleasant river. Its beauty of surroundings is of the restful, quiet
kind, but undeniably worthy of praise. There are pretty drives among
the hills, the summer climate is not to be surpassed, and though there
are no very exciting diversions, the town must be set down as a really
delightful retreat for the summer traveler who desires nothing but
unrestricted lotus-eating. The village inns are comfortable, home-like
country boarding-houses, rather than hotels ; and there is pleasant
society to be met in this remote corner of the province.
Antigonish is the shire town of Antigonish County. It stands at
the head of a wide, shallow harbor opening into St. George's Bay. It
has a population of a little less than 2,000, and carries on an extensive
trade in agricultural produce with Newfoundland. It also ships quan
tities of gypsum. The country is settled by a thrifty farming popula
tion of Celtic Highlanders. Antigonish is the seat of a Roman Catholic
bishopric, of the fine new Cathedral of St. Ninian (a striking structure
of blue limestone dressed with brick, consecrated in 1874, and carrying
on the facade the inscription " Tighe Dhe," which is Gaelic for " The
House of God "). The sermons in the cathedral are frequently preached
in Gaelic. Near the cathedral is the imposing pile of St. Francis Xavier
College, a prosperous Roman Catholic institution under the presidency
of Dr. McNeill. Close by is the building occupied by the Girls' School,
which is managed by nuns of a Montreal Sisterhood. Quiet as the vil
lage is, it practically monopolizes the whole supply trade of the country,
and hence supports some large shops which would do credit to places
with thrice the population. In the country about Antigonish, accessible
by stage or carriage, the most interesting points to visit are the Anti
gonish Mountains, thrusting their lofty line 15 miles out into the gulf;
Cape St. George ; and the romantic village of Celtic Highlanders known
as Arisaig, behind whose long wooden pier vessels seek shelter in some
winds, there being no harbor on this coast between Antigonish and
Merigomish. Leaving Antigonish we pass the stations of South River, Taylor's
Road, Pomquet, and come to the prosperous settlement of Heatherton,
whence a stage line runs 20 miles to Guysboro. The third station be
yond Heatherton is yet another Tracadie, a very interesting Acadian
settlement 20 miles from Antigonish. Here is situated a monastery of
Trappist monks, and also a convent occupied by Sisters of Charity. The
third station beyond Tracadie is Harbor au Bouche, another Acadian
settlement, and 10 miles beyond, 80 miles from New GlaBgow, the

TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH. 207
train stops at Mulgrave on tho Strait of Canso. On the other side lies
the wild and lovely land of Cape Breton.

Cape Breton.
The island of Cape Breton forms a portion of the province of
Nova Scotia. Its extreme length is about 100 miles, its width 85 miles,
and its population between 80,000 and 90,000. It is marvelous for the
diversity of its scenery, being a very chaos of mountains, lakes, streams,
and deep bays, and a sportsman's paradise. The island is all but split
in two from end to end by the strange lake-like inlet of the Bras
d'Or ; and the division is completed by a ship-canal half a mile long
connecting the inner extremity of the Bras d'Or with St. Peter's Bay
on the W. coast. The two divisions of the island thus formed are ex
tremely dissimilar, the southern portion being low and much broken by
the sea, and the northern portion very mountainous and bold. The
valleys and plains are fertile, the coast waters rich in fish, the forests
support a largo ship-building industry, and, most important of all, the
coal-mines are among the very best in the world. Besides its vast
coal deposits, Cape Breton produces marble, granite, limestone, slate,
gypsum, iron, and salt. Its position makes it the key to the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, a consideration which led Franco to cling tenaciously to its
possession when yielding up the Acadian Peninsula. Its delicious and
invigorating summer climate, added to its other attractions, make it one
of the pleasantest places in Canada for summer wanderings.
The island takes its name from a cape on its east coast, which was
called in honor of its Breton discoverers. It was renamed Isle Royale
by the French- in 1 713, and on the cession of Nova Scotia to England
its population was swelled by the influx of Acadians who refused to
live under English rule. In 1714 was built the strong fortress of Lou
isbourg ; and for the uext fifty years the story of the island is one of
perpetual hostilities between the English on one hand and the French
with their Indian allies on the other, culminating in the second and
final capture of Louisbourg and the utter destruction of the fortress in
July, 1758. In 1765 Cape Breton was annexed to Nova Scotia. It
was made a separate province in 1784, but was reannexed in 1820.
Its population is almost entirely Celtic, being made up of Scotch High
landers and Acadian French.
Cape Breton may be visited by boat up the Bras d' Or Lakes, by

208 TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH.
the new railway, or by boat from Halifax. Mulgrave, already re
ferred to, is a fishing village of about 500 inhabitants, in the moun
tainous, gold-producing county of Guysboro. It has a harbor open
the year round, and is connected with Port Hawkesbury by a steam-
ferry. The latter is a growing village of perhaps 1,100 inhabitants,
and good prospects for more. The steamships plying between Boston
and Charlottetown call at Port Hawkesbury.
Through the Bras d'Or Waters to Sydney.
From the noble passage called the gut or Strait of Canso we may
go by boat or stage through Cape Breton. The new railway from
Point Tupper to Sydney and louisbourg has just been opened. At
the time of writing the schedule is not yet announced. In any case the
traveler, if traveling for pleasure, will probably prefer the absolutely
unique sea-voyage through the windless waters of the Bras d'Or.
The daily steamers from Port Mulgrave touch at Grandigue, where
passengers for Arichat disembark ; also at St. Peter's, Grand Narrows,
and Baddeck. The fare to Baddeck is $2 ; return, $3.50. The fare
to Sydney is $3 ; return, $5. F.om Mulgrave the course is eastward
through the Strait to Isle Madame, an island some 16 miles long by
5 miles in width, peopled by Acadians. The steamer traverses the
picturesque strait called Lennox Passage, which separates Isle Madame
from the main island. Arichat, the chief village on Isle Madame, lies
on the seaward side, and is an important fishing station, with a popu
lation of between 1,100 and 1,200. The town is the county-seat of
Richmond County, and does a large business for a place of its size.
It is also to some extent an educational center, having successful
academies for boys and girls. There are other busy little villages on
Isle Madame.
Leaving Lennox Passage we run up St. Peter's Bay, whose head is
separated from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras a' Or waters, by a narrow
isthmus with the once appropriate name of " The Haulover." Through
this isthmus has lately been cut a canal of about half a mile in length,
which has made the Bras d'Or route by far the most desirable for
Cape Breton travelers. The village of St. Peter's, with its population
of about 1,100, mostly Scotch, was founded as long ago as 1636 by
the illustrious Frenchman M. Denys. Throughout all its early history
it was a place of importance, and well fortified. Through the eighteenth

THROUGH THE BRAS D7OR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 209
century it went by the name of Port Toulouse, and was a center of the
fur-trade. Off the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet is a group of islands
occupied by the Micmac Indians. On the largest of these islands is
held a grand Indian festival every St. Anne's Day, at which many
curious ceremonies are observed. The celebrations are well worth a
visit. Leaving St. Peter's Inlet we are on the Great Bras d'Or Lake,
which Mr. Warner calls "the most beautiful salt-water lake I have
ever seen, and more beautiful than we had imagined a salt-water lake
could be." Its shores are bold enough to be striking, rounded enough
to be winsome, and diversified by every form of headland, estuary,
glade, and forest. The woods are of an infinite variety, making a de
licious harmony of colors. The coast-line is of marvelous extent, so
many and so deep are the branches of the lake, diverging in every
direction between the ranges of the hills. Among the chief of these
estuaries and inlets are River Denys, East Bay or St. Andrew's Chan
nel, and West Bay or Si. George's Channel. Near the head of East
Bay is the picturesque Indian village of Escasoni, and everywhere lie
snugly nestling hamlets of Scotch Highlanders.
From the Great Bras d'Or the steamer enters a beautiful channel,
2 miles long by about a mile in width, called the Strait of Barra or the
Grand Narrows, and calls at a settlement of the latter name. The dis
trict is peopled by immigrants from Barra in the Hebrides. Passing
through the strait we enter the Little Bras d' Or Lake, whose charm of
landscape and climate compels the acknowledgment of the most dis
contented of globe-trotters. Around the lake crowd innumerable shel
tering hills, most of them named with a fine freshness and disregard
of the exigencies of pronunciation. To the westward of the lake, for
instance, lie the heights of Walchabaktchkt ! The next stoppage is at
the village on which Mr. Warner has conferred a certain kind of im
mortality. Every traveler, who goes to Cape Breton, it is to be pre
sumed, carries a copy of " Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing," which,
if not always quite just in the impressions it conveys, is always good
company. Baddeck.
Baddeck is growing year by year more popular, more sophis
ticated, more expensive, and better equipped in the matter of hotel
and boarding-house accommodations. It lies 40 miles from Syd-

210 THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY.
ney, and has a population, including the farm-houses that gather
about it, of some 1 ,900 souls. The original spelling of the name was
Bedeque. The village is of some importance, both as a shipping port
and as the shire town of Victoria County. It is a thoroughly delight
ful watering-place, a very idyll of peace and beauty and sparkling at
mosphere, removed from all the bustle of modern affairs, yet within
easy reach of the pleasant society of Sydney. In the neighborhood is
Middle River, its valley peopled with Gaelic-speaking Highlanders, and
its innumerable tumbling tributaries fairly alive with trout. The early
summer is best for the trout-fishing, when the sea-trout are running in
and stocking brooks that seem by far too small for them. A drive of
about 30 miles by a lovely road will take one to the renowned fishing-
waters of the Margaree River, where the trout and salmon swarm.
There is good fishing also some distance up the Big Baddeck River,
which flows through some of the richest hunting-grounds of Cape
Breton. A point of some interest to the tourist not already satiated
with Indians is the Micmac Village near Baddeck. These red men
are in some respects fairly advanced in civilization, and their language,
which has been minutely studied and systematized by the life-long
labors of the late Dr. Silas T. Rand, author of a Micmac Dictionary,
has a rich vocabulary and no lack of flexibility and force. No one
who reads the Micmac legends gathered by Mr. Leland will doubt the
imaginative vigor of the tribe. The chief hotels of Baddeck are the
Telegraph House and Bras d'Or Hotel. Gold is found in the neighbor
hood of Baddeck. A magnificent drive is from Baddeck to Whycoco-
magh, on a branch of the Bras d"0r, through the noblest of scenery all
the way. A divergence of 4 or 5 miles from the main road takes one
to the great water of Lake Ainslie, the source of the Margaree. In
this region are deposits of petroleum, marble, and iron, and there is an
interesting cave near the village. Whycocomagh may also be reached by
steamer through the splendid strait of St. Patrick's Channel. The pop
ulation of the district, of which the village is the center, is about 2,500.
Eighteen miles beyond Whycocomagh is Mabou, on the gulf coast, an
important seaport, with rich coal-fields in the vicinity. Ten miles
southwest of Mabou is Port Hood, with 1,300 inhabitants, the busiest
port on the northwest coast of the island.
From Baddeck to the mouth of Sydney Harbor the route varies.
Sometimes the boats, or at least the smaller boats, take the channel
called the Little Bras d'Or, but ordinarily that of the Great Bras d' Or.

THROUGH THE BRAS D'OR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 211
These channels lead to the open Atlantic, about 8 miles from Sydney
Harbor. They are divided by Boularderie Island, which is about 35 miles
in length by 8 miles in extreme width, and owes its existence as an
island to these strange and beautiful channels. The Little Bras d'Or
is a deep and tide-swept passage, so narrow and intricate as to be im
passable for craft of any size. In a Bmall steamer the journey is very
romantic and impressive, and one feels himself, at times, imprisoned
hopelessly in the rocky clefts. The Great Bras d'Or, forming the
northwest boundary of Boularderie, is a noble passage, ranging in
width from 1 to 3 miles, and extending about 30 miles. It has great
depth, and the scenery of its shores, overpeered by the Mountains
of St. Anne, is bold and impressive. From this channel the steamer
sails out between the surf-beaten headland of Cape Dauphin and the
promontory of Point Aconi, with its coal-fields. From Point Aconi
the course is S. E. for 9 miles to Cranberry Head, rounding which we
find ourselves in Sydney Harbor.
Running up the harbor we see in the distance the works of the
Sydney Mines — indeed, the whole neighborhood is studded with
coal-mines, and at any time we may be passing over the deep sub
marine galleries in which the picks of the miners are at work with the
sea-waves rolling fathoms deep between them and the upper air. The
coal of this district is among the best the world produces ; and among
the many mines engaged in bringing it to light are, besides the Sydney
mines already named, the Victoria, the Lingan, the International, the
Gowrie, and the Little Glace Bay These are all easily accessible by
stage from the town of Sydney, and some of them have rail communica
tion, for freighting purposes, which will furnish an informal means of
transit. Sydney.
Sydney, which held the proud position of provincial capital when
Cape Breton was a province, boasts one of the best harbors on all this
well-havened coast. Her population by the last census (1881) was
3,667 ; and her trade, not only in coal, but in general produce as well,
is of great and growing volume. The one flaw in Sydney's harbor is
the fact that it is ice-bound for the greater part of the winter. In
summer, however, it is full of life and activity ; and being the head
quarters of the French squadron in the North Atlantic, it becomes the
scene of a delightful social activity. The harbor is divided by a penin-

212 THROUGH THE BRAS D'OR WATERS TO SYDNEY.
sula into two arms, and on the southwesterly arm is Sydney. At the
extremity of the peninsula are the ruins of the fortifications and bar
racks, occupied by a British garrison up to the time of the Crimean
War. The harbor was originally called Spaniards' Bay, having been
the rendezvous for the Spanish fishing-fleets ; and afterward it was
used by the English as a center from which to carry on the struggle for
the island. Now that England has made good and enduring her
triumph, France retains but a pier and flag-staff at the town of Sydney,
representing her coaling privileges. The presence of the French ships
and the French officers, with their continual and graceful hospitalities,
is regarded now with anything but hostility by the citizens of Sydney.
In the matter of hotels Sydney is rather comfortable than modern.
Her hostelries arc not pretentious. The chief are McKenzie's, the
American, Central, Hearn's, and Mrs. King's. It is generally easy to
get board in semi-private houses, at from $4 to $6 per week.
Eight miles from Sydney, and reached by a steam-ferry, is the town
of North Sydney, the business center of the Sydney coal-mines.
North Sydney has more stir but much less charm than its rival, and is
not likely to attract the tourist to any prolonged sojourn. It is per
vaded with coal-dust and activity, and is a good place to make the
money that may be more agreeably spent elsewhere — at Sydney, for
instance. Its population is from 5,000 to 6,000, and it has several
tanneries, a boot and shoe factory, and extensive ship-yards. The
chief hotels are the Preston House and Belmont Hotel.
The harbor of Sydney, though utterly overshadowed, historically,
by Louisbourg, has seen some stirring episodes. Here gathered the
remnants of Admiral Sir Hovcnden Walker's fleet after its wreck of
the St. Lawrence mouth in 1711 — a powerful remnant, indeed, seeing
that it consisted of 42 ships of war. In 1781 took place, off the har
bor, a gallant battle between two 44-gun French frigates and four light-
armed British vessels, which were convoying a fleet of coal-ships. The
result was a somewhat unfruitful victory for the French, as the defeated
English vessels made their escape under cover of night, with the excep
tion of a little ship of 6 guns which remained in the victors' hands. In
1785 the site of Sydney was occupied by a party of United Empire
Loyalists, under the leadership of Abraham Cuyler, ex-Mayor of Albany,
New York.

THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 213
Louisbourg.
Twenty-four miles from Sydney, by rail, lies the storied site of
Louisbourg, now but a little fishing village, whose inhabitants follow
their calling on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. Its population is
about 1,000. .The modern village lies some little distance from the
ruins of the walled city which it was once the fashion to call the " Dun
kirk of America." It is used in summer as a coaling-station. The
harbor is spacious, perfectly sheltered, and with a good depth of water
everywhere ; but its supremacy has fled to Sydney, and is not likely to
return, unless a certain "ocean-ferry" scheme, one of several such,
should some day come into effect. This rather hypothetical proposi
tion contemplates a fast train-service between Louisbourg and such
centers as Montreal, Boston, and New York, connecting with swift
ocean-steamers for the transatlantic voyage. It would greatly shorten
the trials of those whose dreaded enemy is the mal-de-mer.
The special interest of Louisbourg lies in its history, which has been
so inimitably told by Parkman that every tourist visiting the spot
should take with him the volumes entitled " Montcalm and Wolfe."
The scenery at Louisbourg is not bold or striking. The hills surround
ing the harbor are rather low, and without impressive features ; but
the land lies in a shape very favorable to defensive fortification. The
harbor entrance is narrowed by islands and reefs to a width of about
half a mile, and was protected by mighty batteries ; behind which, at
the southwest point of the harbor, rose the city walls. The opposite
side of the harbor-mouth is a promontory called Lighthouse Point,
which proved itself the key to the situation, and dominated the main
defense, that known as the Island Battery. Louisbourg arose after the
Treaty of Utrecht, and in its building no treasure was spared. The best
engineering skill of the time was expended upon it, and when com
pleted the French engineers made the boast that it could be effectively
defended by a garrison of women. The landward side was not de-
feuded with the same degree of care, as only a sea attack was consid
ered practicable. The wild surf of Gabarus Bay, and the b6gs inter
vening between that water and the city, were regarded as a sufficient
defense against the approach of heavy artillery, and against light guns
the walls were adequate.
As soon as war was declared between France and England, in 1744,
Massachusetts turned her attention to Louisbourg, as a deadly menace

214 THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY.
to her safety. In 1745 she decided to undertake its capture. The ex
pedition she sent out was commanded by Colonel William Pepperell,
who was supported by Commodore Warren and the West India squad
ron of the British fleet. The New England forces, raw troops, com
manded by untrained officers, astonished the world by capturing the
supposed impregnable fortress. Though the British fleet lent valuable
aid and support, the main credit for the splendid achievement is indis
putably due to the New England militia and to their sagacious and capa
ble commander. When Pepperell found himself within the walls, and
saw the tremendous casemates and bastions and bomb-proofs which
his guns had shattered, and realized from the shot-torn walls of the
citadel, the convent, the hospital, and the stately cathedra], the wealth
and importance of the situation, he was overwhelmed with a sense of
the magnitude of his accomplished task. This feat of the New-Eng-
landers settled the contest in Europe. With the Peace of 1749 Louis
bourg was restored to France in return for concessions nearer home ;
and all that seemed to remain to New England for her enterprise was
the title conferred on Pepperell. But in truth the country had mani
fested her power, not only to herself but to the world.
In 1755, when war again broke out between France and England,
the English attempted to surprise Louisbourg; but France had not for
gotten her lesson, and was found alert. In the spring of 1758 England
gathered her forces for an effort that should be final ; and early in
June Wolfe appeared before Louisbourg, support by a vast fleet. This
trained commander followed almost minutely in the footsteps of Pep
perell, rightly appreciating the old New-Englander's insight. Louis
bourg had been immensely strengthened for just such an emergency, but
the result was the same as before, and upon the destruction of the har
bor defenses, and of almost all the French fleet at refuge in the harbor,
the city surrendered, giving up a force of nearly 6, 000 men and 230 guns.
After the capture, England spent months in the effort to thoroughly
erase the fortifications. Of the proud city itself there is left not one
stone upon another, but the mighty lines of the earthworks yet remain,
with the grand slope of the glacis, and the enduring arches of the case
mates and magazines. The scene recalls with an almost poignant ap
propriateness the lines of Browning :
Where the quiet colored end of evening smiles,
Miles and miles,
On the solitary pastures where our sheep,
Half asleep,

THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 215
Tinkle homeward through the twilight, stray or stop,
As they crop,
Was the site once of a city great and gay,
So they say,
Of our country's very capital ; its prince
Ages since,
Held his court in, gathered councils, wielding far
Peace or war.
In the waters of the harbor lie the hulks of sunken war-ships ;
and on the low green slope of the point of land running out from
the ruined ramparts to the reefs where stood the Island Battery, is
the last resting-place of the brave New England militia who per
ished in the great siege. The ceaseless beating of the outer surf,
whose voice their guns outroared, is a fitting requiem ; which is well,
seeing that their countrymen have honored them with no more definite
memorial. New Glasgow to Truro and Halifax.
The express from New Glasgow halts at Stellarton to take in pas
sengers from Pictou and the island. The run from New Glasgow to
Truro, a distance of 43 miles, is for the most part through a rather
uninteresting country, though when the road strikes the valley of the
Shubenacadie River, which it descends for the rest of the distance, the
steep red sandstone shores of the stream afford some pretty bits of
scenery. Five miles beyond Stellarton is the old village of Hopewell,
with its quaint, old-fashioned inn of Hopewell Hotel, a spool-factory,
and a prosperous woolen-mill. Fifteen miles from New Glasgow is
Glengarry, whence a high-road leads to the Scotch settlements of Gair-
loch and New Lairg. Then come Lansdowne (18 miles), West River
(23 miles), Riversdale among its hills (31 miles), Union (34 miles),
Valley (39 miles), and 4 miles farther we run into the depot of Truro.
Truro is a growing town very centrally situated for the provincial
trade. It is 61 miles from Halifax, 67 miles from Pictou, and 77 miles
from Amherst. It stands on the fertile alluvial shores of the Shuben
acadie, at the head of Cobequid Bay, which is an arm of Minas Basin.
Its population in 1881 was 3,461, but the census now being taken is
sure to show a heavy increase on these figures. Truro's manufactures
include felt hats, leather, woolens, boots and shoes, machinery, iron
castings, canned goods, and other items. The best hotels are the old
Prince of Wales Hotel, on the pretty central square of the town, and the

216 NEW GLASGOW TO TRURO AND HALIFAX.
Learmont House and the Victoria, by the station. But there are many
more hotels in the town. Truro is the seat of a well-conducted educa
tional institution, the Provincial Normal School, which occupies a
handsome building with well-kept grounds about it. The town is level
but rather pretty ; and the principal street, broad and well shaded,
and containing some good buildings and charming private residences, is
unusually attractive. On the outskirts lies the Park, which is perhaps
the prettiest and most picturesque pleasure-ground in the Maritime
Provinces. It consists of a bold and richly wooded ravine traversed
by a small stream, which at one point falls in a lovely cascade into a
fairy-like chasm. The steep wall of this chasm is lined with windiDg
steps, and nooks containing seats, and lighted by electric lamps swung
in the foliage. When these unique grounds are illuminated, the effect
is enchanting. Truro was originally occupied by the Acadians, and, after their ex
pulsion, by immigrants from New Hampshire and disbanded Irish sol
diers. The Shubenacadie River, running past the back of the town, is
one of the longest in Nova Scotia, and in the lower portion of its course
is a tidal stream, with important ship-yards about its mouth. The tide
at this point is tremendous. Along the course of the Shubenacadie
and connecting with the Dartmouth Lakes lies the disused Shubena
cadie Canal, which was built at an enormous cost but turned out a
failure. From Truro a stage line runs down the north shore of Cobe-
quid Bay a distance of between 40 and 50 miles, through the settle
ments of Masstown (where stood the largest chapel of the ancient
Acadians, and where now the old poplars and apple-trees remind us of
the former inhabitants), Folly Village, Great Village, Highland Vil
lage, Port au Pique, Bass River, and Upper Economy, to Five Islands,
where stand, off shore, those five great rocks which, say the Indians,
were thrown there by Gluskap in his contest with the Great Beaver.
Till we approach Halifax the journey from Truro yields little in the
way of striking scenery. The station next to Truro is Brookfield (8
miles); then the pretty pastoral village of Stewiacke (18 miles) and
the river of the same name. From the busy little village of Shubena
cadie (22 miles) stages run down the river 18 miles to the rich ship
building village of Maitland, which stands on an arm of Cobequid Bay,
near the mouth of the Shubenacadie. Maitland ships and Maitland
sailors may be found on every sea. Near Maitland, in the gypsum
rock, so abundant in all these regions, there is a curious cave worth

NEW GLASGOW TO TRURO AND HALIFAX. 217
exploring. Its entrance is barely large enough to admit one com
fortably ; but it enlarges as you go in, and is some 400 or 500 yards
in depth. Stages also run from Shubenacadie, in a southeasterly direc
tion, to the gold district of Gay's River and a number of villages be
yond. The gold of Gay's River is found in the conglomerate rock of a
long ridge of heights called Boar's Back. Leaving Shubenacadie we
pass the villages of Milford (26 miles), Elmsdale (32 miles), and En
field (35 miles). Enfield has a large and prosperous establishment for
the manufacture of pottery, its clay being excellent in strength and
texture. Three miles south of Enfield are the famous Oldham Gold
3Iines, whose quartz rock yields very rich returns. About 7 miles on
the other side of Enfield are the Renfrew Gold Mines, equally famous.
After passing Oakfield (38 miles) we come to the flag-station of Grand
Lake, on a broad water of the same name, wherein may be had some
excellent trout-fishing, as in the other lakes of this neighborhood.
After passing Wellington (42 miles), and skirting Long Lake, the train
runs into Windsor Junction (50 miles), where the Intercolonial R. R.
connects with the Windsor and Annapolis Railway. The junction con
sists, besides the station-house, of some half-dozen whitewashed shan
ties, a little whitewashed church, some picturesque pools of clear
water, a fair sprinkling of goats, myriads of great, gray bowlders, and
here and there in tho crevices a blueberry-bush. It is a picturesque
place, but no one stops there unless now and then to hunt for water-
lilies, and to get a hotel one must run on to Bedford or Halifax. Two
miles beyond Windsor Junction is Rocky Lake, near the Waverly Gold
Mines, which are charmingly situated in a picturesque and narrow val
ley between two lakes. Fifty-five miles from Truro we run over a high
bridge, across a beautiful peopled valley, into the village of Bedford
and a landscape of enchantment. Bedford is at the head of the noble
water called Bedford Basin, a great lake-like expansion of Halifax
Harbor. It is 8 miles from Halifax, with which it is connected by
suburban trains as well as by the express service of the Intercolonial.
Its boating and bathing are not to bo surpassed, and its waters are
deliriously mild in temperature. Many Haligonians have their summer
residences here, and there are also two good hotels, the Bedford and
the Bellcvue, close to the station, whose rates are $2 per day or $10
per week. Hither come the trim craft of the Halifax Royal Yacht
Squadron. It is a beautiful drive between Halifax and Bedford, and
the road passes the quaint little structure of the Prince's Lodge,

218 NEW GLASGOW TO TRURO AND HALIFAX.
perched on the crest of a pretty little wooded knoll and shaking to
the thunder of the passing trains. This retreat is sweet with romantic
memories of the Duke of Kent's sojourn in Halifax, and of the lady
whose name was in those days so intimately connected with his. The
railroad skirts the basin, for the most part close to the water's edge,
and the delightful " bits " that pass iu succession before one's eyes
must torment the soul of the artist. Four miles beyond Bedford is
Rockingham, with its hotel, called the Four-Mile House, and the fine
brick buildings of the convent school for girls, called Mount St. Vin
cent. Off Rockingham is a famous rowing-course. Then we come to
the Narrows, where the harbor is but half a mile in width. Pres
ently we enter the crowded freight-yards of the dingy suburb of
Richmond ; and a mile farther on the train comes to a stop in the
depot of Halifax, on North Street. Halifax.
The population of Halifax, according to the census of 1881, was
36,100 ; but the census, of 1891 will probably bring it up to something
over 45,000. The chief hotels are the Halifax ($2 to $3 per day) ; the
Queen's ($2 to $3 per day); the Waverly ($2.50); the Carleton ($1.25
to $1.50) ; the Albion ($1 to $1.50). The principal streets are trav
ersed by horse-cars (fare 5 cents). The city is well supplied with cabs,
whose charges are as follows : For each person for any distance up to
1 mile, 25c. ; 1 i mile, 30c. ; 2 miles, 40c. ; 2-J- miles, 45c. ; 3 miles,
50c. ; and all other distances in like proportion.
One half the above rates to be paid if returning in the same
carriage. For all cabs or carriages hired by the hour : For a one-horse car
riage per hour, 75c. ; for a two-horse carriage per hour, $1 ; and in
like proportion for every fraction of an hour.
To or from any steamer or passenger vessel, or to or from any ho
tel or dwelling-house to any stage office, railway station, or other place,
with half a cwt. of luggage, 50c.
The chief clubs are the Halifax Club and the City Club. The
Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Club may also be mentioned, among many
organizations of a similar class, as having a somewhat marked social
basis. The chief theatres are the Academy of Music and Orpheus Hall.
From Halifax sail a number of steamboat lines : the Furness Line
to London ; Donaldson Line to Glasgow ; Bossiere Line to Havre ;
Allan Line to Liverpool ; Red Cross Line to St. John's, Newfoundland ;
Anglo-French Line to St. Pierre ; lines to Bermuda, Jamaica, Turk's
Islands, and Havana ; the Yarmouth Line to Yarmouth ; Halifax and
P. E. I. Line to Charlottetown; Halifax and Newfoundland Line
(steamer Harlaw) to Cape Breton and the French Shore of Newfound-

HALIFAX. 219
land ; Halifax and Bridgewater Line to Lunenburg, Bridgewater, and
Liverpool ; and the fine, new steel steamer Halifax, of the Canada
Atlantic Line to Boston. This is a most desirable route to Boston.
The fare is $7; return ticket, $12. Staterooms, $1 to $1.50 extra.
The steamers sail from Halifax every Wednesday, at 8 a. m., arriving
in Boston Thursday at 1 i>. m. ; from Boston every Saturday at noon,
arriving in Halifax Sunday evening, 6 p. m. Through tickets are issued,
in connection with this line, over most important railways, and baggage
checked through. The boat is very steady and safe, and most com
fortable in her equipments.
The city of Halifax is situated on Halifax Harbor, formerly Che-
bucto Bay, one of the finest harbors in the world. The harbor proper,
whose Indian name signifies " the chief haven," is 6 miles long, with an
average breadth of 1 mile, and has in every portion secure anchorage
for the largest ships that float. The history of Halifax is compara
tively brief, but stirring. It was founded in June, 1749, by the Hon.
Edward Cornwallis, with 2,676 British immigrants. The chief pro
moter of the enterprise was the Earl of Halifax, President of the Board
of Trade and Plantations. When winter came there were nearly 5,000
people within the palisaded walls of the infant city. The building of
Halifax was a proclamation to the French that England intended to
make the peninsula thoroughly and permanently her own ; and forth
with the Acadians and their Indian allies, under the direction of agents
from Quebec and Cape Breton, began to harass the new settlement
and strive in every way to compass its destruction. If men went alone
into the woods to hunt or gather fuel, they were cut off by unseen
foes. Outlying houses were raided by night, and their occupants
slaughtered or carried away captive. Children were stolen from the
threshold or the cradle. A small village had rapidly sprung up where
now stands Dartmouth, across the harbor. One night the citizens of
Halifax, too far away to render aid, had to watch helplessly the burn
ing of this settlement, and listen to the noise of a conflict whose re
sult they could guess but too well. The case was in some respects a
parallel, in others a sharp contrast, to that of Montreal on the night of
the Lachine massacre. When the Halifax contingent arrived with
daybreak on the scene they found the scalped bodies of the settlers
among the smoking ruins of their dwellings. This was in 1751. The
new city speedily became a great naval station, whereat the Eng
lish forces concentrated for the attack of Louisbourg and Quebec ;
and during the American Revolution Halifax was the chief base

220 HALIFAX.
of British operations. When the independence of the Thirteen Col
onies was acknowledged, the population of Halifax grew suddenly
by the immigration of some thousands of United Empire Loyalists.
The growth of Halifax since then has been slow as regards population,
but more considerable as far as wealth and influence are concerned.
The American civil war brought Halifax a short period of remarkable
prosperity, when she became the head of extensive blockade-run
ning operations and a center for Southern sympathizers. With peace
came something like stagnation, from which the city has awakened
only within the last decade. THE FORTIFICATIONS.
In the city of the present day the chief interest centers in the
fortifications, which constitute Halifax the strongest fortress in the
New World. The defenses begin at Sambro Island, off the mouth
of the harbor, which is occupied by a " lookout " party of artillery.
Three miles below the city is MacNab's Island, crowned with stone
batteries, and carrying a light to warn ships off the Thundercap
'Shoals. Above and below, strong batteries, of which the chief is
York Redoubt, lie in wait at points of vantage on both sides of the
harbor. In Point Pleasant Park, immediately adjoining the city, be
tween the harbor and the northwest Arm, are the batteries of Point
Pleasant and Fort Ogilvie. Across the harbor, just below Dart
mouth, are the frowning works of Fort Clarence, and in mid-har
bor is the grassy cone of St. George's Island, with armaments and
defenses of vast but unknown strength. On this fortress Great Brit
ain has lately spent and is still spending immense sums, and it may be
considered the equal of the citadel, if not its superior in some respects.
Of old it was possible to gain admittance to this stronghold, but now its
stupendous mysteries are kept obscure, since visitors were found to have
made interesting plans and notes in regard to the works. Now, if any
one, peculiarly favored by authority, should gain entrance to a portion
of the interior, he would find the green and harmless-looking island
swarming with troops, and honey-combed with galleries and arsenals
and casemates. From the port-hole of one of these casemates, around
whose mouth the grass waves innocently, and behind which lurks the
grim shape of a great cannon like a beast of prey in ambush, one looks
out upon a sunlit scene of peace and human activity. On the ramparts

HALIFAX. 221
of the citadel (to which it is now almost impossible to gain even the
most superficial entrance) one is 256 ft. above sea-level, and the view
is magnificent. The city skirts the citadel hill, its streets running up
the height as far as permitted. The works were begun by the Duke of
Kent when commander of the forces at Halifax, and almost yearly
since they have been changed and strengthened in one way or another,
till now the position is regarded as impregnable ; and the barracks
within the walls are shell-proof. The armament is largely composed
of immensely heavy muzzle-loaders of a modern type, firing conical
Palliser chilled-iron shot. Around the narrow entrance gate stands
guard a semicircular battery of 11 guns. On the citadel flag-staff
flutter gayly the many-colored signal flags that announce approaching

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST.
In no way inferior to the view from the citadel is that from the
deck of boat or steamer as we sail up the harbor. The climbing
streets and roofs, the soaring spires, and the crowning fortifications
come together with exquisite effect. In a corner of the dark and broken
Dartmouth shores lurks the little town of Dartmouth. The coloring of
the scene is lovely enough in the broad sunlight ; but when the sun is
setting at the head of the- harbor it becomes simply superb. The
masts of the shipping rise black in a flood of rose or amber, the win
dows on the Dartmouth shore are a blaze of molten copper, and the
sky above the hills of the outer harbor, to eastward, takes on a hue of
wonderful beryl green. In this divine light the grim bulks of her
Majesty's war-ships, motionless at their anchorage off the Dockyard,
rise black and portentous. The Royal Dockyard, toward the upper
end of the city, extends for half a mile along the harbor front, and is
in every respect a thoroughly equipped navy-yard. It is divided from
the rest of the city by a high stone wall, and is not open to the pub
lic; but permission to visit it may usually be obtained from the
superintendent. A little farther up town, on Gottingen St., is the Ad
miralty House, where dwells the Commander-in-Chief of the North
American and West India Squadrons. The Admiralty House overlooks,
though at some little distance, the costly and massive structure of the
Dry Dock, lately completed. This structure is 613| ft. long at the
top, 593 ft. long at the bottom ; in width 102 ft. at top, 70 ft. at bot
tom ; and has a draught of water on the sills of 30 ft. This exceeds the

222 HALIFAX.
dimensions of the Brooklyn Dry Dock by 46 ft. in length and 13 in
width. It is built of granite and concrete. A little N. stand the spa
cious Wellington Barracks. The general effect of the streets of Hali
fax is somber, from the prevalence of gray stone or gray paint, or, in
many quarters, no paint at all. The best portions of Hollis and
Granville Sts. are well and solidly built, showing wealth without dis
play. The most important structure on Hollis St. is the massive, dark-
gray Parliament Building, which must be regarded, in its severe sim
plicity, as a really good piece of architecture. The Chambers of the
Assembly and the Legislative Council are tastefully decorated, and
contain some rather notable portraits. Among these is one of Sir
Thomas Strange, painted by Benjamin West. There are also several of
England's kings and queens, and such distinguished sons of Nova
Scotia as Judge Haliburton, better known as Sam Slick, Sir John In-
glis, the defender of Lucknow, and Sir Fenwick Williams, the hero of
Ears. The building also contains, in the Legislative Library, a valu
able collection of books. Opposite the Parliament Building stands a
handsome freestone structure whose lower stories are occupied by the
Post-Office and Custom-House, and its third floor by the Provincial
Museum. Just S. of the Parliament House are the fine brown-stone
quarters of the Halifax Club. Farther along Hollis St., on the E. side,
"are the chief hotels of the city, the Halifax Hotel and the Queen. The
Halifax occupies a historic building, which has been enlarged and mod
ernized to one of the best-equipped hotels in Canada. On the corner
of Granville and Prince Sts. is the Y. M. C. A. Building, with its library
and reading-rooms.
A good deal of the business of Granville St. is shifting farther
up the hill to Barrington St., one of the most important thorough
fares in the city. This street is peculiarly confusing to visitors, for
in its lower portion it calls itself Pleasant St., while its upper or
northern section is known as Lockman St. ; and its last extremity
becomes Campbell Road. Only the life-long resident is expected to
know the point at which one name ceases to apply and another
comes into effect. On Barrington St., at the south end of the Grand .
Parade, stands the dingy but dignified old church of St. Paul's. This
great wooden structure is the oldest church in the city, having been
built in the year 1750, at the State expense. It is an exact copy of
St. Peter's Church, on Vere St., London. The building is one of great
historic interest, and its collection of mural tabletB is richer than

HALIFAX. 223
that of any other church in Canada. It accommodates about 2,000
people. The Parade is the central square of the city, and occupies a
terrace high above Barrington St. The terrace wall is a splendid
piece of masonry in gray granite. At the north end of the Parade
riBes the stately pile of the New City Hall, on the site formerly oc
cupied by the buildings of Dalhousie University. This progressive and
flourishing university now occupies a handsome new structure some dis
tance out Morris St. It has made great advances within the last few
years, under the presidency of Dr. Forrest.
Moving south along Barrington St. from the Parade we pass the
effective new structure of the Church of England Institute, and then the
building of the City Club. Then comes the pretty little theatre, called the
Academy of Music ; and opposite, on the corner of Spring Garden Road,
is the Glebe House, soon to be demolished, where dwells the Roman
Catholic Archbishop of Halifax. A stone's-throw from the corner, in a
most commanding situation, stands St. Mary's Cathedral, by far the most
important church, architecturally, in the city. It is built of gray stone,
with a fine front and spire of granite. In the spire is a chime of bells,
not remarkably melodious. Beyond the Academy of Music stands St.
Matthew's Church, belonging to the Presbyterians. This is a building
of some architectural distinction — which can not be said of the majority
of Halifax churches. Next to St. Matthew's, on a charming site, is
the plain freestone structure of Government House, whose grounds ex
tend through to Hollis St. Immediately opposite is old St. Paul's
Cemetery, very noticeable for its fine trees and its striking monument
to the memory of two Nova Scotian officers, Welsford and Parker,
who fell before Scbastopol. Continuing along Pleasant St. we pass
Morris St., on which lies Dalhousie College, already mentioned ; the
Exhibition Building, the Institution for the Blind, and the plain Church
or pro-Cathedral of St. Luke's, the see-church of the oldest Angli
can bishopric in Canada. Beyond Morris St. we pass the quiet and
aristocratic Waverly Hotel, the eminently successful Presbyterian
Ladies' College, and the Girton House Boys' School. The next cross-
street is South St., at the foot of which is the Royal Engineers' Yard,
familiarly known as the Lumber Yard. This is a favorite point of de
parture for boating excursions and for the races of the Royal Yacht
Squadron. If we continue along Pleasant St., we presently find our
selves beyond the houses and skirting the water-side. We are in the
beautiful and spacious resort of Point Pleasant Park, with its match-

224 HALIFAX.
less carriage-drives, and winding foot-paths, and secluded dells, and
bits of wild-wood scenery, and broad sea-views, and every here and
there the exhilarating surprise of a strong fortification or an am
bushed battery. The park is imperial property, but leased indefinitely
to the city at a shilling a year. For a space of one day in each year
the park is closed to the public to preserve the property against a
claim of right-of-way. From the seaward point of the park, where the
harbor is joined by the waters of the Northwest Arm, is commanded a
fine view, including the high fortifications of York Redoubt. The
Northwest Arm is a beautiful water about 4 miles long and half a mile
in width, the head of which comes within 2 miles of Bedford Basin.
Along its eastern shore are some of the best private residences of
Halifax. The Arm is a delightful resort in summer, and is traversed
by a small steamer, which runs also to MacNab's Island. Its waters
are navigable throughout its entire length, and afford some good sport
in the way of lobster-spearing and fishing for pollock with the fly.
Bathers find its temperature rather low compared with that of Bedford
Basin ; and there is the added disadvantage of the possibility, some
what remote indeed, of a visit from a small shark. At the head of the
Arm is Melville Island, once occupied by prisoners of war, now used as
a military prison. At the mouth of the Arm is Pernett's Island, and a
short distance above it are two immense iron rings fastened into the
rock on each side of the inlet, from which was slung, during the War of
1812, a massive chain cable to bar the ingress of hostile ships. ¦ Other
points of interest in the neighborhood of the Arm are The Dingle,
noted for its fairy loveliness, and Dutch Village, supposed to be in
teresting. About 3 miles from the Arm is a famous "Rocking- Stone"
of granite, which may be set in motion by a small lever. This peculiar
phenomenon is on the St. Margaret's Bay Road. It weighs something
over 150 tons, and oscillates on u, base of 12 inches by 6 inches.
Nearer town, on the Prospect Road, is a similar stone of much smaller
dimensions. One of the chief " lions " of Halifax is situated where Spring Gar
den Road intersects with South Park St. We refer to the beautiful
Public Gardens, perhaps the finest in Canada or the Northern
States. The grounds cover 18 acres, and are most tastefully laid out
and adorned, besides being endowed with great natural beauty to begin
with. On the picturesque waters of the pond are interesting waterr
fowl, including black and white swans. On Saturday afternoons a mill-

HALIFAX. 225
tary band plays from four till six ; and on summer evenings concerts
are often given, when the grounds are brilliantly illuminated. At the
western end are tennis-courts. In the immediate neighborhood of the
Gardens are Camp Hill Cemetery, the Convent of the Sacred Heart, the
grounds of the Wanderers' Athletic Association, Dalhousie College,
already mentioned, the vast new pile of the Poor-House, the Victoria
General Hospital, and the pretty little church known as Bishop's
Chapel, near which has been laid the corner-stone for the proposed
Anglican Cathedral. Among the many other churches of the city, the
most interesting are, perhaps, the curious circular structure of St.
George's (Ang.) on Brunswick St., the handsome Fort Massey Church
(Presb.) on Tobin St., the spacious new brick structure of St. Patrick's
(R. C.) on Brunswick St., the pretty Methodist Church on Grafton St.,
the quaint little Dutch Church far up Brunswick St., built for the
German immigrants in 1761, and the almost equally unpretentious
Garrison Chapel on Brunswick St., just below the Citadel. The serv
ices at Garrison Chapel are interesting to visitors on account of the
impressive military display which accompanies them. Among other
points of interest are the Great Grain Elevator up Water St. and the
Cotton Mills on Kempt Road. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, in the
early morning, the traveler should make a special point of visiting the
Green Market, where the country folk, ignoring the stalls of the com
fortable- brick Market-House, sell their goods on the broad side
walks surrounding the Post-Office. The characteristic scene is thus
described by the Rev. R. Murray :
There are Dutch women from along the eastern shore with their
baskets of green crops, which have been nourished on the purest ozone
and the richest sea-kelp. There are the Blue-nose women, broad and
high-colored, fearless alike of wind and weather, as they drive their
loaded teams by night, over rough and lonely roads, to reach the ear
liest Dartmouth ferry-boat. They offer, with a friendly smile on their
weather-beaten visages, primrose butter, perdu under cool cabbage-
leaves, and pearly eggs, food for the gods. There are lank-limbed
countrymen, clad in gray homespun, standing beside their loads of
vegetables or salt-marsh hay ; not keen and shrewd-eyed, like New
England farmers, but bashfully courteous of speech, with the soft
lisp of German fatherland on their tongues or the burr of their
Scottish ancestry. Here are a pair of Frenchwomen with baskets
of knitted goods on their arms. Contrast the withered and yellow
grandame, her grizzled hair bulging in a roll above her bushy eye
brows, her claw-like hands plying her knitting-wires, with the fresh
young girl by her side, whose arch black eyes sparkle from out
15

226 HALIFAX.
of her smooth olive face, and her white teeth display themselves in
full force as we finger the huge mittens in her basket. Old and
young are habited alike, in blue or black handkerchiefs tightly knotted
under the chin, loose blue jackets with napkin-shawls folded over
them, and short woolen skirts. Scores of them have been on the road
all night, trotting the 26 miles from Chezzetcook on foot, their fingers
busily plying the knitting-needles all the way. There squats a negro
matron on the pavement, her clouted feet stretched before her in utter
disregard of passers-by, a short black pipe between her pendulous lips.
Her layers of rags clothe her like the fungi of a dead tree ; her padded
hood is fashioned to fulfill the office of a saddle for her load. She has
luscious wild strawberries in little birch-barks, which she offers you in
an unctuous falsetto, stuffing her pipe into her bosom, the better to
overhaul her store for a fresh one. You pause in your bargain, won
dering whether her teeth hulled the tempting fruit !
The " noble red man " and his squaw also attend market. There
they stand, a degenerate pair, clad in the cast-off clothes of the white
man, their merchandise consisting of flag and willow baskets gayly
dyed, and an occasional porcupine-quill box. The squaw is premature
ly aged. Her broad, copper-colored face is inconceivably wrinkled ;
her eyes, from their ambush of folds, peer forth with a snaky gleam.
The " brave," propped up against the Post-Office wall, dozes with his
bunch of rabbits (in their season) dangling in his hand, and, working
his jaws mechanically on his quid, dreams of — rum. A bronze-tinted
papoose is strapped under a filthy basket at the mother's back, and its
impassive little face surveys life over her shoulder with a perfect phi
losophy. This trio has drifted from one of the wigwam-hamlets near
Dartmouth, and thither they will return when their wares are disposed
of, if they do not fall victims to rum and the station-house.
The town of Dartmouth, population between 4,000 and 5,000, is
reached by ferry from the foot of George St., or by a railway which
crosses the harbor at the Narrows. The town contains some fine pri
vate residences, whose owners do business in Halifax. The chief points
of interest at Dartmouth are Fort Clarence, already mentioned, the
Sugar Refinery, and the imposing gray-stone and granite structure of
the Mount Hope Lunatic Asylum. Fort Clarence guards what is known
as the " Eastern Passage," which was supposed to be impassable for
large ships till the occasion on which the Confederate cruiser Talla
hassee made her escape by it. The Confederate ship was blockaded
in Halifax harbor by an American squadron ; which, however, paid no
attention to the Eastern Passage, supposing it unnavigable. The Tal
lahassee took advantage of a favoring wind and tide, and made good
her escape by the dangerous channel. A few miles from Dartmouth
are the Montague Gold Mines, the pleasant summer resort of Cow Bay,

HALIFAX. 227
with its surf-bathing, and the pretty chain of the Dartmouth Lakes.
Dartmouth has some important manufacturing interests, among them
a famous skate-factory and a rope-walk.
From Halifax as a starting-point the traveler has many pleasant
side trips at his command. He may go by boat eastward to Canso and
Cape Breton and the west coast of Newfoundland ; to St. John's,
Newfoundland, and St. Pierre ; westward along the Atlantic coast to
Yarmouth and intermediate ports by boat or stage, or up the Annapo
lis Valley as far as may be desired. If the traveler intends going to
Boston via Yarmouth, Annapolis, or St. John, he will " do " the An
napolis Valley and " Land of Evangeline " en route. If, however, he
intends taking the steamer Halifax at Halifax, for Boston, he will do well
to make a round trip down the Atlantic coast of the peninsula, by steam
ers Bridgewater or City of St. John, or by stage, through Margaret's Bay,
Chester, Mahone Bay, and Lunenburg to Bridgewater, thence by the
admirable new cars of the Nova Scotia Central R. R. across the prov
ince to Middleton on the Windsor and Annapolis R. R., and thence by
the W. and A. R. R. through the regions immortalized by Longfellow,
through Wolfville and Windsor, back to Halifax. This is in every way
a most enjoyable trip, with many points of interest along the journey.
The places on the W. and A. R. R. and the Nova Scotia Central will be
referred to later in connection with the trip to Annapolis and beyond ;
and the places between Halifax and Bridgewater in our account of the
voyage down the Atlantic coast.
NEWFOUNDLAND.
To St. John's, Newfoundland, one may go by the steamers of the
Allan Line or Red Cross Line. The time occupied in the passage is
about 48 hours. The Allan steamers sail for Liverpool fortnightly,
beginning this year (1891) on May 11th. Cabin passage from Halifax
to St. John's is $20 ; round trip, $40. The steamer Portia, of the Red
Cross Line, plying between New York, Halifax, and St. John's, makes
fortnightly sailings, and charges $18 between Halifax and St. John's;
$34 for the round trip. To St. Pierre one may go from Halifax by the
steamship St. Pierre, of the Anglo-French S. S. Co., sailing every
alternate Wednesday, or by the coastal steamer from St. John's. The
fare from Halifax is $15, for the round trip $25, which includes meals
and berth ; the fare from St. John's is from $6 to $7.

228 NEWFOUNDLAND.
The Island of Newfoundland, dubbed " England's oldest col
ony," is a self-governing province not connected with the Canadian
Confederation. It forms the eastern wall, as it were, of the Gulf of
St. Lawrence ; is 419 miles long by 300 in extreme breadth ; and owing
to its numerous bays it has an enormous extent of coast-line. ItB fish
eries are perhaps the richest and most famous in the world ; its sealing
industry is vast and picturesquely perilous ; its climate is almost as
harsh and forbidding as its coasts, but there are sections very favor
able to agriculture ; its lakes and rivers swarm with game-fish, its wil
dernesses with deer and wild-fowl ; like Ireland, it has no snake or
venomous reptile ; its mineral wealth, hardly at all developed, consists
of silver, copper, lead, iron, plumbago, manganese, eoal, gypsum, etc. ;
its Indians, the strange Beothues, have gone into that limbo whither
the dodo and the great auk preceded them ; the vast interior is in great
part unexplored, and is as full of mystery as the colonial politics.
Tlie history of Newfoundland begins with the Norsemen in the
tenth century. Its fishing waters were frequented by Norman Breton
and Basque fishermen during the fourteenth century. It was visited
by John Cabot in 1497, by the Portuguese explorers Cortereal and
Vcrazzano in 1501 and 1524 respectively, and by Cartier in 1534. In
1583 it was taken possession of in the name of England by Sir Hum
phrey Gilbert, and settlements were speedily established along the
coast. About the end of the seventeenth century and in the early
part of the eighteenth the south and east coasts were the scene of
fierce struggles between the French and English. By the Treaty of
Utrecht, signed in 1713, the French, while relinquishing all claim
to the island, were secured in the possession of the rocky islets of
St. Pierre and Miquelon, and of certain fishing privileges along the
west coast. The provisions relating to these privileges were very stu
pidly drawn up by the British commissioners, whence arises in the
present day no end of difficulty and disagreeableness. The island was
formed into a province in 1728. In 1761 and 1796 the French made
vigorous efforts to conquer it. In 1E32 was convened the first Legis
lative Assembly. By a census taken in 1884 the population was placed
at 193,121. Now, in 1891, in quarrels with England and France and
Canada, the ancient colony is endeavoring to manufacture history at
short notice. Her position as gate-keeper to the St. Lawrence makes
it forever impossible that she should be permitted by England to be
come a member of the American Union.

st. John's. 229

St. John's.

The city of St. John's, the capital of Newfoundland, is on the extreme
eastern coast of the peninsula of Avalon. It is nearer Europe than any
other port of North America. It is 1,076 miles from Montreal, and 1,730
miles from Cork. The approach from the sea is very impressive. The
deep, secure harbor is gained by a strongly fortified passage called the
Narrows, where the lofty sea-wall of the island is rent asunder. The city
is built chiefly of wood, and is striking mainly from its situation. Small
as the houses are, and dingy as are the streets, the city contains great
wealth. The chief hotels are the New Atlantic, a house equipped
with all modern conveniences, and the Union, on Water St. Livery
charges are very moderate, and carriages may be hired at about 80
cents an hour. The population of St. John's, according to the last
census, is 31,142. The chief trade is in fish and fish products, and in
seal-oil, for the refining of which there are several establishments ;
but the merchants of the city do also a heavy local trade in supplying
the " out-harbors," as the other towns of the island are styled. The
city has tanneries, breweries, biscuit, shoe, and furniture factories. It
also has one of the best graving-docks in America. At times, on the
arrival of the sealing steamers, there i3 stir enough in the streets of
St. John's to satisfy the demands of a more metropolitan center, and
the wits and sticks of the police are sometimes taxed to keep order.
For about a month in each summer the city is thronged to overflowing
with people from the north and west coasts, selling their produce and
laying in provisions for the winter. The main business artery is Water
St., occupied by the wholesale supply-stores of the merchant princes
of St. John's, and by a liberal sprinkling of grog-shops and cheap eat
ing-houses. Water St. is unpretentiously but massively built. On its
northern portion stands the Custom-House. The Market-House and
Post-Office occupy a commodious building about its center, and at its
south end are the bridge and causeway which cross the head of the
harbor. The most important structure in the colony is the great Ro
man Catholic Cathedral, crowning the ridge which overlooks the city
and the harbor. The Cathedral, with the Bishop's Palace, Convent,
and St. Bonaventure's College, which cluster about it, cost $500,000.
The Cathedral itself is a vast pile, built of stone, much of which was
brought over fiom Ireland. It has twin towers, an immensely long
cloister, and no aisles. In the grounds before it stand a number of

230
statues, among them one of St. Peter. The Irish Catholics form a
great majority of the citizens of St. John's.
About half-way up the slope stands the not yet' completed Cathedral
of the. Church of England. When. finished this will be a very beautiful
Gothic structure. It was designed by the great English architect, Sir
Gilbert Scott, and its completion is delayed by lack of funds. On
what is called the Military Road, running along the high ridge occupied
by the Roman Catholic Cathedral, stand the old Barracks, and also the
Parliament Building, a massive stone structure, with a really fine Doric
portico. North of the Parliament House is Government House, occupy
ing pretty and well-kept grounds. The other important public build
ings are the penitentiary, hospital, Athenaeum Building, educational
institutions, and poorhouse. The city rejoices in a rickety suburb with
the euphonious appellation of Maggotty Cove, through which we pass
to climb to the vantage-ground of Signal Hill. On Signal Hill is
the Observatory, from which, and from many another point of vantage
on the edge of precipitous steeps, we look down upon the city and
the harbor in their windless amphitheatre. The crest of the hill is
clothed with soft, fine grasses. Amid them lies a deep lake 360 ft.
above the sea. Passing the great stone barracks we come at length
to a little battery, perched on the edge of a cliff 500 ft. high, from
which we look down directly into the Narrows, thronged with the sails
of its fishing fleets. Immediately below is the place where, in war
time, the harbor is closed by great chains swung from shore to shore.
As Paris is called the gayest of capitals, St. John's has been
characterized by Warburton as the fishiest. " Round a great part of
the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half,
laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is not
much of the former to depend upon." These curious structures, which
Mr. Warburton called sheds, are known to Newfoundlanders as " flakes,"
and are a prominent feature of the landscape of every settlement, con
veying a characteristic odor to the breezes. This is a grievance to
which one readily gets accustomed. In the course of her career New
foundland's capital has suffered severely from fires, notably in 1816
and 1817. In 1860 St. John's was the scene of a ferocious riot, when
a mob of Irish Catholics took possession of the town and began pillag
ing the stores. The Royal Newfoundland Companies were ordered out
and posted before the Market-House, where they stood for hours mak
ing no reply to the taunts of the rioters. As night fell, however, they

TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S. 231
were fired upon by the mob ; whereupon they responded with a, de
structive volley. At this juncture the bells of the cathedral sounded an
imperious summons to the rioters, who flocked thither, and were ordered
by the bishop, on pain of excommunication, to keep the peace. Since
then, and up to the very latest days, there have been other almost
equally discreditable disturbances in the island, arising out of religious
disagreements. Trips from St. John's.
In the matter of railroads the Ancient Colony is very much behind
the times. Her settlements are a mere fringe about the coast, and
communication is carried on, for the most part, with picturesque ir
regularity, by means of coasting-vessels. A railroad runs from St.
John's around Conception Bay to Holyrood, Harbor Grace (85 miles),
and Carbonear, a distance of 93 miles. It is being continued up the
east coast to the town of Trinity and on to the copper-mining districts
of Hall Buy. The experiences of the engineers in locating this railroad
were thrilling enough to have occurred in Central Africa. They were
attacked at times by men with shot-guns and women with pitchforks,
who dreaded lest their labors should result in an increase of taxation.
There is some talk of a railroad across Newfoundland to St. George's
Bay, which would open up the island to modern influences.
Around St. John's there are some very beautiful and striking drives
over firm and well-kept roads. One of the most charming of these is
by way of the lovely little Quiddy -Viddy Lake and Bally Haly Bog to
the deep, wooded lake of Virginia Water, where was once the summer
residence of Newfoundland's Governors. The drive may well be ex
tended over the high and moss-grown reaches of the " Barrens " to
Logie Bay and Torbay, where one gets a good idea of the Newfound
land coast scenery. This scenery is characterized by an almost total
absence of beaches, 'he shores consisting of lofty cliffs, about whose
bases thunder the mightiest surges of the Atlantic. Every here and
there this forbidding wall is broken by a little opening called a '' cove,"
usually deep enough to serve as a haven for the fishing-boats. At the
head of the cove comes tumbling in from the heights a brown trout-
brook, and here gathers a cluster of fishermen's cottages, in an ideal
seclusion. Another lovely drive is to the wildly romantic scenery of
Portugal Cove, on Conception Bay. At this point is a comfortable
country hotel, past whose windows roars and flashes a white cascade.

232 TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN S.
If one is fond of coaching, he may go by stage over matchless roads,
through the sweet pastoral scenes of what is called the Strait Sliore
of Avalon to the villages of Blackhead (4 miles), near which is Cape
Spear, the most easterly point of North America ; Petty Harbor f 10
miles), near which is the strange phenomenon called the " Spout," a
hole in the vaulted roof of a deep sea-cavern, through which, during
storm and high tides, the water is hurled in a huge fountain visible for
miles about ; Bay Bulls (1 9 miles), Witless Bay (22 miles), Mobile (24
miles), Toad Cove (26 miles), La Manche (32 miles), Brigus (34 miles),
Cape Broyle (38 miles), with fine salmon-fishing in the river that flows
around the foot of Hell Hill, Caplin Cove (42 miles) ; the important
little town of Ferryland (44 miles), where, in 1637, Sir David Kirk
established himself when he was appointed Count Palatine of New
foundland; Aquafort (48 miles), Fermeuse (51 miles), Renewse (54
miles), and the deadly ship-wrecking headland of Cape Race, the
southeast point of Newfoundland (64 miles). About 50 miles off Cape
Race are the famous Grand Banks of Newfoundland, almost as noted
for their naval battles as for their cod-fisheries. On the Grand Banks,
in 1755, the French men-of-war Alcide and Lys were captured, after a
furious battle of five hours, by the British frigates Dunkirk and De
fiance. In the same neighborhood, on August 19, 1812, took place the
famous battle between the American frigate Constitution, of 44 guns,
and the British frigate Guerriere, 38 guns, which resulted in an over
whelming victory for the American ship. The Banks extend four degrees
north and south and five degrees east and west. They consist of vast
submerged sand-banks, strewn with sea-shells, lying in water from 30
to 60 fathoms deep. Here, from February to November, feed the cod
in innumerable swarms, and the fisheries give employment to over 100,-
000 men of all nations. " Throughout a great part of the spring, sum
mer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fogs,
through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. Sometimes these
fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at
which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by
the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs
(which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sud
den and intense coldness which they send through even a midsummer
day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about them, and by the roar
ing of the breakers on their sides."
The tourist who wishes to visit the N. E. cgast of Newfoundland

M

The Monthly Mail Train from Hall's Bay to Codroy.

TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S. 233
and the shores of Labrador, will need to allow himself a clear month
for the trip, and should select the midsummer season. As Newfound
land is not a portion of Canada, this hand-book will do little more
than indicate routes, etc. The steamers of the northern coastal line
leave St. John every alternate Monday during the summer, and in
tending passengers should communicate with the agents, Messrs. Bow-
ring Bros., at St. John's, Newfoundland. The fare to the town of Trin
ity is $5, and to Bett's Cove or Nipper's Cove, where the Labrador
steamer is taken, about $10. On the Labrador boats the charge, in
cluding meals and staterooms, is $2 per day. The fare is very plain,
but the steamers are strong and seaworthy. Labrador is an intensely
interesting country to explore, but not of much interest to the traveler,
who merely takes a hasty look at its grim shores and passes on. It is
hardly worth visiting unless one intends to do it thoroughly. Then,
it has marvelous and almost virgin trout-and-salmon fishing to offer,
and strange landscapes, and wonderful cataracts, and all the charm
of the mysterious unknown. Along the Coast.
From St. John's the steamer rounds Cape St. Francis, and stops off
the shelterless roadstead of Bay Verd, an important fishing village.
Then it crosses the mouth of Trinity Bay, and enters the magnificent
harbor of Trinity, one of the best on the American coast. Trinity
has something less than 2,000 inhabitants, and is an important center
and county town. It lies 115 miles from St. John's. Some farming is
carried on in the neighborhood of the town ; and opposite, on the S.
side of the bay, lies a seaport with the exquisite name of " Heart's Con
tent." The next stopping-place beyond Trinity is Catalina, with a pop
ulation of about. 1,500, situated on a secure harbor noted for its
peculiar tidal phenomena. The next call is at the ancient town of
Bona vista, with nearly 3,000 inhabitants, on Bonavista Bay. The
harbor is dangerously exposed to nor'west winds, but the town has a
growing commerce. It lies 146 miles from St. John's. Bonavista Bay
is 37 miles across the mouth from Cape Bonavista to Cape Freels, and
its indented shores are set with many fishing hamlets. On the N.
shore is the important harbor and village of Greenspond, on a small
island so barren that soil for the village gardens had to be brought in
boats from the mainland. After rounding Cape Freels the steamer

234 TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S.
sails N. W. across the many-islanded water called Hamilton Sound.
The next stoppage is at the town of Fogo, on Fogo Island, 216 miles
from St. John's. On Fogo Island are outlying settlements with such
curious names as " Joe Batt's Arm," " Seldom-come-by," and " Little
Seldom-come-by." Leaving Fogo, the steamer enters a very wilderness
of picturesque islands, and stops at the important town of Twillingate,
the capital of the northern division of Newfoundland. The town has
about 3,000 inhabitants. It is built on two islands, connected by a
bridge. The neighborhood is famous for producing the choicest speci
mens of the Newfoundland dog, jet black with a white cross on the
breast, now rare and costly. Fourteen miles from Twillingate is the
large fishing village of Exploits, with about 600 inhabitants. Near by
is the mouth of the great Exploits River, navigable in large portions of
its course. It runs through a low and well-wooded country. The
Grand Falls of the Exploits are 145 feet in height. Its length is about
150 miles. Thence the steamer crosses the broad bay of Notre, Dame
to the famous mining village of Tilt Cove, on the border of a lovely
lake. The village has about 800 inhabitants, nearly all minors. The
mines are of copper and nickel, exceedingly rich ; and an excellent
quality of marble is found in the neighborhood. Bett's Cove is an
other important mining center, and indeed all the country about Notre
Dame Bay abounds in mineral wealth, and its population has been
growing rapidly of late years. A highway leads across the island
through coal areas and good farming lands to the Bay of Islands on
the W. shore, and the projected railway to the southward will do
much to develop this region. Here the coastal steamer turns back for
St. John's, and travelers who are going farther N. take the sturdy
Labrador boat. Conception Bay and the South Coast.
The traveler who has come as far as St. John's should certainly take
the railroad around Conception Bay. The first station is the watering-
place of Topsail, 12 miles from St. John's. Then come Manuels (14
miles); Killigrews (18 miles); Seal Cove (24 miles); Holyrood, with
a population of 400 (28 miles) ; Harbor Main, at the head of Concep
tion Bay, Salmon Cove, and Brigus Junction (42 miles), whence we
diverge to Brigus, a picturesque town on a lake between two hills.
Brigus has about 2,000 inhabitants and an immense fishing fleet. A
magnificent view is commanded from the summit of Thumb Peak, 600

TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S. 235
ft. high, or from the bold headland of Brigus Lookout. Not far from
Brigus is the fishing village of Bay Roberts, most of whose male in
habitants spend their summers fishing on the Labrador coast. Ten
miles from Brigus Junction is Harbor Grace Junction. Harbor
Grace (84 miles from St. John's) is the second town of importance in
Newfoundland. It has a population of 7,000, and is an important trade
center. Its harbor is roomy but much exposed to the sea, except close
to the city wharves, where a long sand-beach forms an excellent natural
breakwater. The city is mostly built of wood, and not striking in ap
pearance ; but in the Roman Catholic cathedral it possesses a rich and
handsome edifice. From Harbor Grace a road runs across the penin
sula 15 miles to the village of Heart's Content, already referred to,
where the old Atlantic cable has its western terminus. The railroad
runs on to Carbonear, 8 miles N. of Harbor Grace. This is a town
of something over 2,000 inhabitants, and a great fishing center.
From Harbor Grace Junction a railroad runs to the old town of
Placentia, on Placentia Bay, 84 miles from St. John's. Placentia was
in old times an important French stronghold, and successfully resisted
many British assaults. When the French claims were surrendered by
the Treaty of Utrecht, the garrison and inhabitants of Placentia followed
the French flag to Cape Breton. Under British occupation an impor
tant town speedily arose at Placentia, which has of late years gone
rather to decay. Five miles from Placentia is Little Placentia, and 12
miles farther N. are the great lead-mines of La Manche.
The S. coast of Newfoundland, from Cape Race to Cape Ray, may
be visited by the western coastal steamer from St. John's, which leaves
on alternate Thursdays. The chief points of interest after rounding
Cape Race are the little town of Trepassey, on Trepassey Harbor ; the
excessively dangerous piece of coast between Cape Pine and St. Shot's ;
the town of St. Mary's, on St. Mary's Bay, with the large village and
splendid fishing river of Salmonier, a few miles distant ; Placentia,
already referred to, and Burin, on the Burin Peninsula, forming
the western boundary of Placentia Bay. The harbor of Burin is per
fectly landlocked by cliffs 200 ft. in height, and is the best of all New
foundland's admirable harbors. The town has a large trade, and a
population of 1,850. The surrounding scenery is magnificently bold,
and tho tower of Burin lighthouse is perched 430 ft. above the sea.
From Burin the steamer sails to St. Pierre, a barren rock 4 miles
across, lying under the flag of France. The town is largely built of

236 TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S.
stone, and is crowded together on its harbor at the E. of the island. It
is garrisoned by a company of French soldiers, and is one of the most
peculiar and thoroughly individualized towns in North America. It is
famous alike for its quaintness and its hospitality, its rare old bran
dies and ports, its ubiquitous codfish, and the motley crowds of fisher
men-sailors that throng its narrow streets. The town is the landing-
place of two of the transatlantic cables, which add to its population
a large force of operators. The only buildings of any pretension are
Government House and the Roman Catholic church and convent. The
best iuns are the Pension Hacala and Hotel Joinville. Travelers who
intend visiting St. Pierre should make a point of reading an illustrated
article on St. Pierre, by S. G. W. Benjamin, in the Century Magazine for
June, 1884.
Beyond St. Pierre lies the important fishing district of Fortune
Bay, with the settlements of Fortune, Harbor Briton, and Belleorem,
besides many tiny hamlets in the deep coves. Then come the broad
inlet of Hermitage Bay, and the settlement of Hermitage Cove, 9 miles
from Harbor Briton. At the head of the bay are the rich salmon-
waters of a sheltered inlet called the Bay of Despair, whence old Indian
trails lead through the wilderness to the Exploits River and the lakes
of the interior. From Hermitage Bay westward to Cape Ray the coast
line is almost straight, but fretted with innumerable small coves. The
most important settlement is Burgeo, a village of 700 inhabitants, on
one of the Little Burgeo Islands. On the mainland opposite are the
salmon-fisheries of Grandy's Brook. The next settlement is the fish
ing village of La Poile. Six miles beyond is Garia Bay, with several
villages on its shores ; and then, 9 miles farther, the busy little port of
Rose Blanche. Thence the steamer passes Burnt Islands, and then
Dead Islands, so named from their innumerable wrecks. These islands
have been made illustrious by the heroic deeds of George Harvey, who
dwelt on one of them during the early part of the century, and by his
splendid skill and daring saved many hundreds of lives. The houses
in all this region seem largely built of wreckage, and furnished with
the spoils of ships.
The last port of call for the western coastal steamer is the village
of Channel, or Port au Basque, 4 miles W. of the Dead Islands. This
is an important station for the transfer of cablegrams. It has a popu
lation of about 700, and famous halibut-fisheries in the vicinity. On
every alternate trip the coastal steamer runs across the gulf to Sydney,

k

U*lf

Government Houses and Town Pumps at St. Pierre

TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S. 237
Cape Breton. Around Cape Ray, 3 or 4 miles W. of Channel, lies
the vast stretch of coast known as the West or French Shore, the
scene of the present unpleasantnesses between France and Newfound
land. Owing to the uncertainties and difficulties of government in this
section, and partly perhaps to the dangerous character of the coast,
whose safe harbors are widely separated, the region is little populated
and less civilized. Yet it has great natural resources, the most fertile
soil and fairest climate in the colony ; and when the difficulties which
now harass it have been brought to some satisfactory solution, it will
doubtless become one of the most prosperous portions of the island.
The change that would bring most immediate and permanent benefit
would be union with the Confederation of Canada.
The French Shore.
The French shore is not likely to attract, for the present, any but
the most adventurous tourists, and these will not be troubled by the
lack of such conveniences as highways, hotels, and regular communi
cation. The region may be visited by the fortnightly packet from
Channel, by the frequent coasting schooners, or most conveniently
and comfortably by the steamer Harlaw, from Halifax and Cape
Breton ports. The total extent of the French shore, from Cape Ray N.
to Cape Bald, and down the N. E. coast to Cape St. John, is a dis
tance of 460 miles. Three miles back from Cape Ray is the lofty
Table Mountain, 1,700 ft. in height, with the summits of Sugar-Loaf
and Tolt Peak in the neighborhood. Eighteen miles N. of Cape Ray
is Cape Anguille, and between these lofty headlands lie the fertile val
leys of the Great and Little Codroy Rivers, with a scattered farming
population. North of Cape Anguille is the great inlet called St.
George's Bay, running 50 miles inland. Around its fertile and
wooded shores are a few small villages, such as Sandy Point and
Crabb's Brook, and some settlements of Micmacs. There are rich coal
deposits in this region. From the head of the bay, where flows in
George's River, may be reached, by difficult trails, the strange, deep
waters of the interior lakes, called "Ponds," of which the chief is
Grand Pond, 60 miles long by 5 in width. These waters are rarely
seen by white men, and are reputed to swarm with fish, as do their
shoreswith game. Toward the close of last century there took place
on Grand Pond a great battle between the remnants of the Boeothucs

238 TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S.
and the invading Micmacs from Nova Scotia, resulting in the extermi
nation of the Boeothucs. The northern gate of St. George's Bay is Cape
St. George. Twenty-five miles beyond is the mouth of the vast harbor
called Port au Port, penetrating the land southward to within a mile
of St. George's Bay. Next comes the Bay of Islands, famous for its
sublime scenery. The soil and climate here are adapted to agriculture,
and such minerals abound as marble, gypsum, and limestone. Tho
villages scattered about the shore contain, in all, about 2,000 inhabit
ants. At the head of the bay flows in the Humber River, 150 miles in
length, and hemmed about its mouth with towering cliffs of white
limestone. About 25 miles N. of the Bay of Islands is Bonne Bay,
renowned for its herring-fisheries. For the next 70 odd miles the coast
line is little broken, till we come to the safe anchorages of the Bay of
Ingrenechoix. Near its northern boundary, called Point Rich, is the
fishing village of Port Saunders. Some 15 miles farther N. is the beau
tiful inlet of Bay St. John, at whose head flows in the almost unex
plored Castors River, abounding with salmon in the lower portion of its
course. Then comes St. Margaret's Bay, with the tiny hamlets of Old
Ferolle and New Ferolle. Then, in succession, the inlets of Bay St.
Genevieve, Bay St. Barbe, and Flower Cove, with its fishing settlement.
Beyond are the famous north shore sealing-grounds, where the coast is
low and grassy ; and presently we enter the barren Strait of Belle Isle,
80 miles long by 12 in width, thronged with seals and swept by icy
currents, separating Newfoundland from Labrador. The coasts and
islands here are of the utmost desolation. At times great herds of ice
bergs may be seen trailing slowly through the strait. On the desolate
Isle of Quirpon is a small sealing hamlet. At the eastern entrance to
the strait is the great rock, 9 miles long by 3 broad, called, in strange
irony, Belle Isle. On its wide circumference there is but one point
where a landing can be effected, and here, twice a year, are put ashore
the stores for the lonely lighthouse-keeper, who has not even a bush
on the whole island to cheer his solitude. He has brought from the
mainland many boat-loads of earth, endeavoring to form a garden-plot,
but the soil is speedily swept clean off by the terrible winds. It is not
surprising that these islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called, of
old, the Isles of tlie Demons, and were represented in the ancient maps
as peopled with devils of various species. The French explorers dared
not land, save with crucifix in hand, on these dreadful shores, where
their ears were assailed with the clamor of demoniac voices. It was

TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN'S. 239
supposed, moreover, that the isles were the abode of a, malignant and
terrible species of griffin. There may have been somo material founda
tion for these tales, as, even so late as the summer of 1873, the coasts
were ravaged by packs of gigantic wolves, who devoured a number of
people and besieged the settlers in their cabins. A romantic legend
connected with these islands has been made the subject of a poem
called " Marguerite, or the Isle of Demons," by Mr. George Martin, of
Montreal. On the expedition which sailed under Roberval, in 1542, to
found a colony at Quebec, were the Viceroy's niece, the Lady Margue
rite, and a young courtier, her lover, whose suit was forbidden by Ro
berval. Their conduct seems to have enraged or scandalized the Vice
roy, for he put his niece ashore, with her old nurse, on the Isle of
Demons, now Quirpon. " The lover leaped from the ship and joined
the women, and the fleet sailed away. Then the demons and the hosts
of hell began their assaults on the forsaken trio, tearing about their
hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting them in the
forest. But the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of
saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these
fiendish assaults, the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse
and the child. Long thereafter lived Marguerite alone, until finally a
fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke of her fire and rescued
her, after two years of life among demons."
The eastern portion of the French shore, from Cape Bald south
ward to Cape St. John, does not call for detailed mention here. There
are fishing stations on the harbors of Griguet, Lunaire, St. Anthony ;
the coaling station of Croc Harbor ; Chouse Brook on White Bay ; and
La Scie, 5 miles from Cape St. John. The most important -waters
are Hare Bay, the splendid landlocked harbor of Canada Bay, and
the magnificent sheet of water, 45 miles long by 15 wide, called
White Bay. This bay has fine fisheries, and little fishing posts are
scattered all about its shore.
Halifax to Bridgewater by the Atlantic Coast.
The steamer City of St. John leaves Halifax every Monday
evening, and connects with the Boston steamer at Yarmouth on
Wednesday; returning, leaves Yarmouth for Halifax every Thursday
morning. The fare between Halifax and Yarmouth by this route is
$5 ; return, $8. The steamer calls at Lunenburg, Liverpool, Lockport,

240 ' HALIFAX TO BRIDGEWATER.
Shelbourne, and Barrington. The steamer Bridgewater, of the Coastal
Steam Packet Co., sails every Wednesday morning at 8 o'clock for
Lunenburg and Liverpool, returning Thursday morning. Every Satur
day morning she sails for Bridgewater direct, returning on Monday
morning. Fa-es: to Lunenburg or Bridgewater, $2; return, $3. To
Liverpool, $3 ; round trip, $5. Meals are not included in these prices.
After passing Sambro, the boat runs some distance» out to sea before
turning westward, dreading the perilous Sambro Ledges. On the
right lies Pennant Bay, beyond which is Mars Head, near the scene of
the wreck of the S. S. Atlantic in 1873, by which no fewer than 535
persons perished. Here also were wrecked the British war-ships North,
Helena, and Mars, from which latter ship it takes its name. Next we
pass the broad mouth of the lovely St. Margaret's Bay, in whose shel
tered recesses lies the pleasant summer resort of the same name,
reached by stage from Halifax. There are several little settlements
scattered around the shores of thi3 beautiful water, the most important
of which is Hubbard's Cove. From the head of the bay there is a
pleasant canoe route, with short portages, across the province to the
waters of the Avon and Minas Basin, with good fishing almost all the
way. Beyond St. Margaret's Bay we enter the mouth of another bay
even more capacious than that we have just left, and only second to it
for romantic beauty. In some weathers the steamer sails in to commu
nicate with the towns of Chester and Mahone Bay, whose harbors are
somewhat shoal for large vessels ; but more usually she sails across
the mouth in the direction of Cape La Have, leaving these towns to be
served by the stage-coaches. Chester is 45 miles by stage from Hali
fax ; 40 miles by similar conveyance from Windsor. In summer it is
one of the most delightful of watering-places, frequented by charming
society from Halifax and from the Southern States ; but in winter it
has earned for itself the pathetic sobriquet of " Chester-God-help-us."
The town has a couple of comfortable hotels (of which the Lovett
House is the best), and about 600 inhabitants of its own. Its scenery
is delicious, its climate perfection ; and one may row and paddle and
sail, catch cod or flounders or lobsters, go in swimming, or loaf and
invite his soul, as agreeably at Chester as anywhere else one can think
of, in Nova Scotia at least. A delightful excursion from Chester is
to Mount Aspotogan, from whose summit one gets a magnificent view.
Within easy reach of Chester, beyond Chester Basin, is the unrivaled
salmon-water of Gold River, frequented also by splendid sea-trout.

HALIFAX TO BRIDGEWATER. 241
All along the drive one has endlessly changing views of Malione Bay's
countless islands, on some of whioh are cozy little Dutch farms. In
among these islands, in the summer of ISIS, the American privateer
Young Teaser was chased by two British war-ships. When the Ameri
can ship was utterly defeated, her officers blew her up rather than sur
render, and every man on board perished. The largest of the islands
in the bay is Big Tancook, with a population of 540. The most inter
esting is Oak Island, one of the best accredited of the innumerable
claimants to the honor of having served as a hiding-place for the
treasures of Captain Kidd. Treasure-seekers, sinking pits on the
island, have found a. host of mysteries but no money. Shafts have
been dug several hundred feet, through layers of cut-stone and hewn
timbers, strange grasses from the tropics, charcoal, putty, and care
fully jointed planks. A great deal of capital has been invested in the
effort either to find the treasure or to solve the mystery of these under
ground works ; but at length the toilers came upon great stone drains
communicating with the sea, which admitted such floods of water that
their pumps could not cope with it ; and the diggings have been aban
doned. The little town of Mahonc Bay is less attractive to summer
visitors than Chester, but is far more business-like and prosperous. It
is engaged in the fisheries, and in building small ships for coasting
trade. It has a population of about 1,000.
Before reaching Cape La Have the steamer turns into a fair and
sheltered haven called by the Indians Malagash, or " Milky," from the
soft whiteness of its surf, and draws up to the wharves of Lunen
burg. This is a thriving German town of 5,000 inhabitants, with
large ship-building and milling interests, and an extensive trade in fish
with West Indian ports. The town occupies a steep slope, and shows
up most effectively as one approaches it from the sea. Its distance by
water from Halifax is 45 miles, and its chief hotel is King's. The
town and county of Lunenburg were settled in 1753 by Germans
and Swiss, and the German language and German customs still prevail
in the district. We see women working in the fields like men, and
cows yoked with oxen to do the hauling and the plowing. The great
point of interest in the neighborhood of Lunenburg is the peninsula of
Ovens Head, distant about 10 miles. On this peninsula has been ob
tained, by washings, a large yield of gold. The place is remarkable
for the strange caverns in its sea-face, called the " Ovens," whence it
derives its name. These penetrate the cliffs for several hundred feet, and

242 HALIFAX TO BRIDGEWATER.
into their yawning jaws the great seas roar terrifically. There are, not
unnaturally, many curious legends and traditions connected with the
Ovens, the most remarkable — and least credible — of which is to the
effect that once an Indian, being swept by wind and current into the
largest aperture, was sucked into the bowels of the earth, to reappear,
not seriously the worse for his astounding adventure, among the count
less isles of Tusket, at the S. W. end of the peninsula. After rounding
the well-named headland of Point Enrage, the steamer enters the fine
estuary of the La Have River, and ascends it, on certain trips, 1 3 miles,
to the town of Bridgewater. The shores of La Have are rich in his
tory, the district having been an important center of Acadian coloniza
tion. Here the chivalrous knight of Jerusalem, Isaac de Razilly, had his
headquarters, and here he died, untimely, in 1637, to the incalculable
loss of Acadie. Fort La Heve was the scene of many a well-fought battle
between French and English or New-Englanders, and the lover of anti
quarian research will find the neighborhood a fertile field for his work.
The sail up the La Have is very beautiful, and the town of Bridgewater
is most fortunate in its situation. At the census of 1881 it had a pop
ulation of 1,000, but it is growing rapidly since the opening of the
Nova Scotia Central Railway, which has its offices and works at Bridge-
water. Its chief business is the lumber-trade, and its great saw-mil's
have practically destroyed, by their sawdust, the fishing in the La Have ;
but of late other manufacturing interests have grown up. The chief
hotel is the Fairview, $1.50 per day. At this point, or at Lunenburg,
the traveler who is not going on down the coast takes the railway
across the province to Middleton, on the Windsor and Annapolis R. R.
Bridgewater to Yarmouth.
After leaving Bridgewater the boat rounds Cape La Have, and,
after a run of '9 miles from the cape, passes the mouth of Port Med-
way, a deep inlet, on which stands a lumbering village of the same
name, with some 500 inhabitants. There is a good deal of ship-build
ing at this little town, which often goes by the name of Mill Village.
Leaving behind Coffin's Island, the boat rounds into Liverpool Bay, a
fine harbor with well-peopled shores. At its head flows in the Liverpool
River, the outlet of the beautiful Lake Rossignol, the largest lake of
Nova Scotia. The name of this lake is the old name of the harbor,
given it by De Monts, in 1604, in honor of a French captain whose

BRIDGEWATER TO YARMOUTH. 243
ship he had confiscated for trading in the harbor without authority —
which must have seemed to the unhappy captain a somewhat barren
compensation. At the mouth of the Liverpool River, on a rocky shore,
stands the pretty and well-kept town of Liverpool, with a popula
tion of nearly 5,000 and a thriving trade. Lumbering, fishing, and ship
building, the stand-bys of all this coast, are the chief support of Liver
pool, but she is also developing some manufacturing interests, in the
lines of machinery, leather, matches, and iron-castings. The chief
hotel is a home-like house, called " The Village Green." The town is
a pleasant place to visit in summer, with some agreeable society, and
fine trout-fishing in the surrounding waters — whose names are legion.
During the War of 1S12 Liverpool was a privateering center, and
her ships preyed fiercely and successfully on American commerce. In
days more ancient, whose history comes down to us with a somewhat
more questionable accuracy, the site of Liverpool was the realm of a
mighty and malignant sorceress, who was righteously, if ungallantly,
attacked by the Micmac demigod Gluskap, already referred to, and torn
to pieces, after a combat which the stars stood still to witness.
Leaving Liverpool Bay, the boat passes the bay and settlement of
Port Mouton, so named by De Monts in 1604. De Monts was evident
ly impressed by Champlain's lack of imagination and tendency to im
mortalize the members of his family and two or three favorite saints
in bestowing names, for his nomenclature is always fresh and striking.
The harbor in question received its title from the circumstance that
here a sheep jumped overboard and was drowned. This may seem to
us a small matter, but at that time and place a sheep was worth con
sidering, and its loss called for commemoration. Leaving out of sight
Port Mouton, the boat passes, at some distance, a number of small fish
ing villages, and comes to the thriving little town of Lockeport, on
Locke's Island, 37 miles from Shelburne. This town has a population
of 1,918, and is actively engaged in the '.Vest India trade and in fishing
on the Grand Banks. From Lockeport the steamer crosses the inlets of
Green Harbor and Jordan River, with their settlements seen in the dis
tance; passes Bony's and Government Points, and runs close to the
striped black-and-white tower of Cape Roseway light. Then the course
turns sharply to the N. E., and the boat steams up the noble expanse
of Shdburne Harbor, so perfect in its freedom from winds and cur
rents that it finds its bane in its very perfection, and freezes solid dur
ing the winter as if it were a fresh-water lake.

244 BRIDGEWATER TO YARMOUTH.
Shelburne is a little town, with its 2,055 inhabitants, but it has a
romantic history. In a night it grew to a great city, and again in a
day it fell away to a quiet hamlet, because it had no root in a rich sur
rounding country. The matchless harbor attracted, in 1783, no fewer
than 12,000 of the United Empire Loyalists in their flight from the
new republic. Governor Parr came in with a fleet, and his batteries
saluted the city of Shelburne, which had sprung up like a dream,
throwing Halifax into utter insignificance. But like a dream the city
melted, for it had nothing on which to support itself. The sealed har
bor, during the winter, was discouraging. The country around was a
wilderness, and not one of the sort that could be made to blossom like
the rose. Two and a half millions were sunk in founding the city.
Soon all the money was gone, and then the people went too — some
back to the United States, some to more hopeful settlements ; and
Shelburne was left with a population of 400 — and the negro suburb of
Birchtown ! Even now the town, with a measure of returning pros
perity, is ludicrously suggestive of a very small boy masquerading in
the garments of a very large grandfather. There are remnants, how
ever, of the old loyalist stock in shrunken Shelburne, making society
there very pleasant, if not extensive. The chief hotel is the Shelburne
House. Sailing out of Shelburne Harbor the steamer rounds Cape Roseway,
and turning eastward passes Negro Island, behind which lies the mouth
of the river Clyde. The next point of interest is the broad water of
Port Latour, on whose shores may still be seen the remains of Claude
de la Tour's fort. In the distance, just before rounding the low cape
called Baccaro Point, is visible the village of Port Latour. Beyond
the point lies Cape Sable Island, 7 miles' long by 3 in extreme
width, with about 1,700 inhabitants. The island was occupied of old
by the Acadians, who in 1758 were carried away to Halifax, after
which, in the course of a quarter-century, their places were filled by
loyalists from New England, a vigorous stock. The extreme southern
point of the island is the ill-famed Cape Sable, from whose conspicuous
white sands comes the name.* The currents and fogs and ledges off
this point have given Cape Sable its sinister reputation, well justified by
the numerous wrecks of which it has been the author — chief of which
may be mentioned that of the ocean steamer Hungarian. Off the cape
* Cap aux Sables, or the Cape of Sands.

BRIDGEWATER TO YARMOUTH. 245
have taken place some important sea-fights, notably that in which, in
1750, the French ship St. Francis was captured by the British ship
Albany; and that in 1812, when the American ship Yankee destroyed
the British ship Royal Bounty.
Between the long shores of Baccaro and Cape Sable Island is the
Barrington Passage, up which the boat runs 12 miles to the busy fish
ing settlement of Barrington, with a population of about 1,600.
The district was settled in 1763 by immigrants from Cape Cod, who
were joined later on by loyalist refugees from the same section of the
republic. A few miles from Barrington lie the Sabimm and Great
Pubnico Lakes. From Barrington the steamer runs out by the West
Passage to the open Atlantic, passes Shag Harbor and Bon Portage
Island, and at a distance the outlying rocks of Seal Island and Blonde
Rock, notorious respectively for the wrecks of the steamship Colum
bia and the British frigate Blonde. The boat's course is now north
west. She passes the mouth of Pubnico Harbor, where lies the pros
perous French town of Pubnico, with a population of nearly 3,000 and
a large fishing fleet. Argyle, with a' population of 750, is near by, on
Abuptic Harbor. After crossing the mouth of the harbor, and of
Tusket River, we enter the myriad-islanded waters of Tusket Archi
pelago. The scene is strangely beautiful. The islands are of every
shape and size, rising boldly out of ocean depths. They stand out
from the coast, unsheltered by beach or promontory, and the tides and
storms sweep furiously through the narrow but profound passages that
sunder them. Some of them are named, but most are nameless. A
fanciful explorer might imagine he discovered the origin of the Tusket
Islands in the innumerable Tusket Lakes, clustered about the course of
the Tusket River. These lakes are of all shapes and sizes, and look
like spots whence patches of land were pulled up and cast into the sea
to form islands. It is strange that the Micmac genius has not invented
a tradition to such effect. These Tusket Lakes, it may be said, offer
some of the best trout and salmon fishing of the province. After leav
ing the Tuskets Jebogue Point is rounded, and the steamer enters the
estuary of Yarmouth River and ascends the narrow channel to the
Yarmouth wharves. Yarmouth.
The chief hotels of Yarmouth are the Queen, Lome, and Yarmouth.
Livery charges are very moderate, and according to agreement. Fare
by steamer : Yarmouth to Boston, $5 ; round trip, $8 ; Yarmouth to St.

246 YARMOUTH.
John, by Western Counties Railway, $3.50 ; to Middleton, $3.75 ; to
Halifax" (rail), $6.50; (boat), $5. The steamer Alpha leaves Yar
mouth for St. John every Monday and Thursday, at 4 p. M., returning
Tuesday and Friday evenings. The Boston steamers leave Yarmouth,
during the summer season, on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sat
urday evenings, on arrival of Halifax train ; leave Boston Tuesday,
Wednesday, and Friday mornings at 10, and Saturday morning at 6.
Fare from Halifax to Boston via Yarmouth, $8.20; round trip, $15.50.
The unlimited ticket, allowing one to stop off at any place or places
along the way, is $9.50.
The prominence attained by Yarmouth as- a shipping port is
rather in spite of than by reason of her harbor, which is straitened
and tide-vexed, and troublesome to ascend. But she has triumphed
brilliantly over these disadvantages, and now ranks fourth among Cana
dian ship-owning ports. St. John, Montreal, and Windsor head the list.
The city is developing its harbor, adding steamers to its sailing fleets,
and keeping abreast of modern movements. Lately it has shown
excellent pluck in inaugurating a first-class steamship communication
with Boston, affording, by means of two fine new Clyde built steamers,
the Boston and the Yarmouth, a swift and pleasant route to the New
England capital. Yarmouth has woolen-mills, foundries, and a canvas-
factory, and so is not wholly dependent upon her fishing interests.
She has many handsome private residences, surrounded by charming
and well-kept grounds ; and she is noted for the neatness and luxuri
ance of her numerous hedges. Through the hottest months of summer
the lawns and trees of Yarmouth, and the blossoms of her tasteful
gardens, preserve a spring-like freshness under the soft touches of the
Atlantic mists. This bright and hospitable little city might almost
be called a colony of ship-captains.
From Halifax eastward.
The steamers of Fishwick's Line, and also of the Halifax, Boston,
and P. E. I. Line, run eastward from Halifax along the coast to and
through the Strait of Canso. Places on the strait are more conven
iently and regularly reached by the rail route already described, and
along this portion of the Atlantic coast there are few points of interest
till we come to the great Bay of Chedabucto, and the little but san
guine town of Canso at its mouth. Intermediate points, such as Chez-
zetcook, Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet

FROM HALIFAX EASTWARD. 247
Harbor, St. Mary's, and Sherbrooke, are best reached by stage from
Halifax. Chezzetcook is interesting as a thoroughly typical Aca
dian settlement, on which time and progress work no changes. Its
quaint people afford a rich field for observation and material for any
number of racy genre pictures. Musquodoboit is interesting for its
rich gold-mines. Jeddore has about 2,000 inhabitants, occupied in
lumbering and fishing. Near Ship Harbor is a noble lake of the same
name. Tangier, 60 miles from Halifax, is a gold-mining center on the
Tangier River, or, as the Indians call it, Ahmagopakegeek, which
means "Tumbling over the Rocks." Twenty miles beyond, at the
head of the fine inlet called Sheet Harbor, is a shipping village of the
same name, near which flow in the noted salmon-streams called Middle
and North Rivers.
Sherbrooke is on St. Mary's Bay, the mouth of the important
stream called St. Mary's River. This is one of the finest salmon-
waters in the province, the fish running almost as large as those of
the Restigouche ; and it is not less famous for its trout. Within a
radius of 10 or 12 miles are the equally noted waters (with salmon,
trout, and sea-trout running up to five and six pounds) of the Gegoggin,
Gaspereaux, and Indian Rivers, whose pools and runs will surely satisfy
the most exacting angler.
Canso is on Chcdabucto Bay, 32 miles S. E. of Guysborough. It
has a population of about 1,500, and is the western terminus of several
of the Atlantic cables, whose operators give the town some pleasant
society. At this point a company of Canadian and American capital
ists is proposing to erect a great city, to bo called the Terminal City,
whence fast steamers are to traverse the Atlantic and lightning ex
presses rush westward. This scheme is pretty fully developed, and
may perhaps be carried out, in which case the splendid Bay of Cheda-
bucto would emerge from its present obscurity. The town of Guys-
borough is described in another place.
From Halifax to Yarmouth by Rail.
The fare from Halifax to St. John by this route is $5.80 ; to Boston,
via Yarmouth, $8.20 ; to Yarmouth, $6.50 ; to Annapolis, $3.80 ; to
Bridgewater, via Middleton and Nova Scotia Central R. R., $4.75 ; to
Kentville, $2.15 ; Wolfville, $1.95 ; Windsor, $1.38. The steamboat
express leaves Halifax in the early morning and runs through to An-

248 FROM HALIFAX TO YARMOUTH BY RAIL.
napolis, 130 miles, in about six hours. An express leaves Halifax for
Kentville at three in the afternoon.
From Halifax to Windsor Junction the train runs over the rails of
the Intercolonial by a route already described; and Bedford Basin
takes on new phases of beauty in the fresh light of the morning.
Three miles beyond Windsor Junction is the station of Beaver Bank ;
and 10 miles farther is Mount Uniacke, the seat of the Uniacke estate
and of valuable gold-mines. The settlement lies between two small
rock-bound lakes. Another 10 miles briegs us to the picturesque set-
. tlement of Ellershouse, scattered over a succession of winding hills and
valleys. This was once a very flourishing village, with a pulp-mill
and large lumbering interests, and took its name from its founder, a
wealthy German of high birth, with the failure of whose business came
to an end the prosperity of the village. The fine Ellershausen Place is
beautifully situated at the head of a romantic glen, down which its
grounds extend. A few miles inland from Ellershouse rises Ardoise
Mountain (pronounced Ardice), whose summit is the highest point in
the province. A short distance beyond the village the train crosses the
Si!. Croix River, which is at this point a picturesque stream, with the
ruins of a mill clinging to its rocky banks. The St. Croix is the outlet
of the famous Ponhook Lakes, with fine scenery and excellent trout-
fishing. The trout of Ponhook run to a good size and are very game.
Owing to their comparative inaccessibility these waters are not over
fished, and they will well repay a visit -by cs.noe. Three miles from
Ellershouse is Newport Station, the center of a fertile farming district.
At this point heavy shipments of plaster are made by rail. All about
Newport lie populous agricultural villages, reached by stage. Three
miles beyond Newport we pass the way station of Three-Mile Plains.
Yet 3 miles farther and we run out upon the rich marshes between
the St. Croix and Avon, sweep round the grassy hill of Fort Edward,
and run into the excessively unpretentious station of the town of
Windsor. Windsor is a wealthy little town 46 miles from Halifax, with a
population, according to the census of 1881, of 3,019, but now esti
mated at something over 4,000. Its shipping is enormous, and it ranks
as the third ship-owning port in Canada. It is largely interested in the
South American trade, and ships great quantities of white and blue
plaster from the Wentworth and other quarries to Boston, New York,
and Philadelphia. In the neighborhood are the gold-mines of Rawdon,

WINDSOR. 249
lately opened and proving very productive. Windsor has also large
cotton, furniture, and leather factories, besides an extensive iron-foun
dry. Its only public buildings of importance are the new Court-House
and the handsome new Post- Office ; but the plain dark pile of King's
College, though without architectural pretension, is impressive by rea
son of its commanding site. As seen from the station, Windsor is not
striking. Many of the buildings in Water St., the main business thor
oughfare, are old and dingy ; but the street is rapidly undergoing a reno
vation in this respect, and the shops are beginning to wear a new face.
The street itself is usually either muddy or dusty, and the visitor who
has heard of the beauty of Windsor should lose no time in getting to the
top of one of the rounded hills on which the town is built. From
the top of Ferry Hill, either when the tide is in, or at sunset, when
the vast abyss of the empty channel giows like polished copper about
the dark piers and wharves and black hulls of stranded ships, the
scene is one to satisfy the utmost expectations. Quite different but
equally superb is the view from the loftier hill-top occupied by the
Tennis Courts, whose pavilion roof affords a post of vantage. The
streets of the town run up and down hill and in unexpected directions,
and are well adorned with shade-trees. Behind the lower end of the
town flows in the St. Croix, at th is point a great tidal stream navigable
for ocean ships to the wharves of Wentworth. The Avon River,
which forms the harbor of Windsor, is a large tidal stream emptying
into the Basin of Minas, 12 miles below the town. At high water it is
like an inland sea, amply deep for any ship afloat ; and with the flood-
tide come ships, and yachts, and tugs, and steamers, flocking to the
wharves of Windsor. At low tide it is but a rivulet, and fairly justi
fies the gibes of Charles Dudley Warner, who writes of the Avon as
follows : " I never knew before how much water adds to a. river. Its
slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land
that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think
it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and
then the other, and then vanishes altogether."
The ancient name of Windsor was Piziquid, meaning " The Junction
of the Waters." Here stood a populous and prosperous Acadian set
tlement, till the great banishment in 1755. After the lands of the
Acadians had lain for some years vacant, settlers from Massachusetts
and Rhode Island were brought in to occupy the townships of Newport
and Falmouth, while Windsor itself was allotted to retiring British

250 FROM HALIFAX TO YARMOUTH BY RAIL.
officers, and became one of the social centers of the province. King's
College, the oldest of England's colonial universities, was founded in
1790, on Oxford models, and was given a royal charter in 1802. It is
under the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is a Church
of England institution, though free to all denominations alike. It cele
brated its centenary last year ; and, after many vicissitudes, entered
on an era of renewed prosperity under the management of the present
president, Dr. Willets. Some of the most distinguished sons of Canada
have been educated at King's, on whose roll of graduates are such
names as those of Judge Haliburton (" Sam Slick "), Sir John Inglis,
and Sir Fenwick Williams. At one corner of the college property is
the Collegiate School, a prosperous institution, and adjoining them on
the E., on a roomy hillside, are the grounds and buildings of " Edgehill,"
the newly-established " Church School for Girls." A favorite walk is
from town out to the college woods, through a willowed avenue that
crosses the ravine of the disused plaster-quarries, and past the gate
house of Clifton, the old Haliburton estate where "Sam Slick" used
to live. This historic estate, with its delightful old country-house em
bowered in ancient trees, no longer belongs to the Haliburton family,
but is always known as the " Sam Slick House." The chief hotels of
Windsor are the newly-fitted-up and excellently equipped Dufferin
Hotel (once the Clifton House), whose roomy structure is the most con
spicuous object near the station ; and the Victoria (Doran's), an old
and popular house, now undergoing extensive improvements which will
bring it quite up to the requirements of the day. Among the other
hotels may be mentioned Mounce's- and the Somerset House. A cab or
two is usually in attendance at the station, and carries travelers to
the hotels or points in town for 25 cents. The livery charges of the
establishment furnishing these cabs (Townshend's stables) are very
moderate.

Windsor to Parrsboro and St. John, by Boat.
The steamers of the St. John and Minas Basin Line run between
Windsor and St. John, calling at Hantsport, Kingsport, Parrsboro,
and Spencer's Island. The times of departure and arrival change daily
with the tide, and are announced monthly in the Halifax, Windsor, and
St. John papers. The fare to St. John is $2.75 ; return, $4, including
meals. The fare to Parrsboro is $1.50 ; return, $3.

WINDSOR TO PARRSBORO AND ST. JOHN. 251
The run down to the Avon's mouth with the tide is charming in fine
weather. The ample river can by no stretch of fancy be called blue ; but
blueness is something of which we have by this time grown well-nigh
surfeited. The shores arc a succession of rich, rolling hills, set with
prosperous villages ; for the soil of this region is of boundless fertil
ity. As we run out of the Avon we pass on our left a high bluff, whose
face is a mine of fossils and specimens to delight the mineralogist. As
we cross the swaying expanse of Minos Basin, the ponderous front of
Blomidon (described in later pages) is the dominating object, dwarfing
the dark brows of rival promontories, and recalling many a romantic
tradition. Running past its foot, we find that this giant loses none
of his impressiveness ou close inspection. Even while we are in broad
sunshine, the dark summit towering above may be withdrawn from view,
wrapped in the fo^s that roll over it from Fundy. At this point we
command a magnificent view up the Basin, past the quaint masses of
Five Islands, up Cobequid Bay, to the very mouth of the Shubenacadie
River, while far behind lies the meadow of Grand Pre. From Blomi
don we run across the mouth of the Basin to the village of Parrsboro,
on a small river at whose mouth the steamer stops. As we make fast to
the mossy timbers of the pier, our view out into the Bay of Fundy
is cut off by the near heights of Partridge Island, an abrupt and somber-
wooded hill which ceases to be an island at low water. This island is the
center of many Gluskap legends, and here took place Gluskap's famous
carousal with the divine Kit-poose-ee-a-goo-no, at which a whole whale
was eaten. At Parrsboro Pier, as the landing is called, there are admi
rable beaches, and there stands a pleasant lodging-house close to the head
of the wharf, with a home-like air very attractive to the summer idler.
Parrsboro itself is reached by a drive of about a mile and a half from
the pier. There are several small hotels, of which the most comfort
able is the Dominion House. The chief business of Parrsboro, support
ing a population of something over 1,000, is the shipping of lumber. It
is the best center from which to reach the wild back country of Cum
berland County, famous for its moose and bears, and its comparatively
virgin fishing-waters. Guides may be hired in the town. A run of 32
miles by rail will enable one to visit the prosperous coal-mining town
of Springhill, a thoroughly typical coal town. Parrsboro lies, by
water, just 30 miles from Windsor. Delightful drives may be taken in
the neighborhood, to Apple River, Five Islands, and the sublime sea
scapes of Advocate Harbor and Cave d' Or.

252 WINDSOR TO PARRSBORO AND ST. JOHN.
From Parrsboro pier the boat runs out into the Bay of Fundy
on the bosom of a tremendous tide, that races between Cape Sharp
and Blomidon at the rate of 8 or 9 miles an hour. Soon we pass,
on our left, the strange and impressive promontory of Cape Split,
whose terminal cliff, about 400 ft. high, appears to have been liter
ally split away from the main mass, and now rises out of the seeth
ing tides in lonely grandeur. Spencer's Island is passed about a
dozen miles from Cape Split, and then in the distance loom the
giant outlines of Cape d' Or, with Cape Chignecto far to the N. Per
haps the most interesting point we pass is the lofty cliff-girt island
called Isle Haute, in the middle of the bay. The island is less
than two miles in length, and its apparently inaccessible walls are
350 feet in height. On its top is a farm, inhabited and cultivated
by a family for whom isolation seems to have no terrors. From
Isle Haute to St. John is a run of from 60 to 75 miles, according
to weather and tide. The course is down the open bay, and the
shores are too far off to be of interest.

Windsor to Grand Pre.
The train runs slowly through the back yards of Windsor to the
Avon, and crosses the river on a fine iron bridge, parallel to which runs
the light and graceful structure of the new passenger bridge. Then
comes the pretty settlement of Falmouth, 1 J miles from Windsor sta
tion. The next stop is at Hantsport:, 7 miles from Windsor. This
is a neat and thriving town, and does an immense amount of ship-build
ing. It is beginning to develop manufacturing interests, and has good
freestone quarries in the vicinity. The houses are small, but wear an
air of comfort. From this point onward to Avonport the railroad fol
lows the banks of the Avon, and one gets noble views from the car
windows, across the' wide Avon, and Minas Basin, toward the blue line
of the Parrsboro shore, with fine glimpses of the mighty shoulder of
Blomidon. Presently this great promontory comes into full view,
and thenceforth remains the commanding feature of the landscape for
many miles, until Port Williams is left behind.
" This is that black rock bastion, based in surge,
Pregnant with agate and with amethyst,
Whose foot the tides of storied Minas scourge,
Whose top austere withdraws into its mist.

Cape Blomidon.

WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE. 253
" This is that ancient cape of tears and storm,
Whose towering front inviolable frowns
O'er vales Evangeline and love keep warm —
Whose fame thy song, O tender singer, crowns.
" Yonder, across these reeling fields of foam,
Came the sad threat of the avenging ships.
What profit now to know if just the doom,
1 ' Though harsh ! The streaming eyes, the praying lips,
The shadow of inextinguishable pain,
The poet's deathless music— these remain! "
Avonport is at the mouth of the Avon, 5 miles from Hantsport, 58
miles from Halifax. Two miles beyond we cross the storied Gaspe-
reaux at its mouth, and reach the village of Horton Landing. From
this point, on to beyond Wolfville, we are in the actual " Land of
Evangeline." The great body of the Acadian settlement was nearer
Horton Landing than to the station of Grand Pre, 1 mile farther
on. Close to Horton Landing is the little creek at whose mouth the
unhappy Acadians were embarked for exile. At Horton Landing is a
pleasant little half hotel, half country-house, by name Dunedin Cotleige ;
and visitors may spend some summer weeks here very pleasantly,
roaming the breezy " dikes," bathing on the beaches of Long Island,
or exploring the lovely valley of the Gaspereaux. Close to Dunedin
Cottage is Patterson's Agricultural and Business School, where boys
are taught farming, with other useful knowledge. Grand Pre itself,
from whose station we see close at hand a row of old Acadian willows,
and on the hill-side a few gaunt Acadian poplars and gnarled Acadian
apple-trees, can hardly be called a village. It is merely a thicker
clustering of the fruitful farms and orchards, and ample farm-houses,
that make so cheerful the face of all this landscape. Near the station
is a great tree by whose foot may be traced the foundations of the
Acadian Parish Church. The neighborhood is a delightful one to visit,
for many gentlemen from Halifax and other centers have farms here,
where they make their summer residence. The visitor who wishes to
spend some time in this neighborhood and do thoroughly the whole
district over which Longfellow has cast the colored light of romance,
will find it most convenient to make his headquarters at Wolfville,
3 miles beyond Grand Pr6, whence the whole region is accessible by
pleasant carriage-drives.

254 WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE.
THE EXPULSION OF THE ACADIANS.
It is to be presumed that the tourist will go through this region
with an open volume of " Evangeline " in his hand, or at least with a
copy of Longfellow in his pocket. Hence, extended quotations from
the noble and touching poem, which has immortalized this region and
crystallized in men's minds a somewhat mistaken view of the tragedy
here enacted, might be considered superfluous. Nevertheless we ap
pend one extract, in which the Acadian village is inimitably described :
"In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas,
Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre"
Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward,
Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number.
Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant,
Shut out the turbulent tides; but at certain seasons the flood-gates
Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows.
West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields
Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain; and away to the northward
Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains
Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic
Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended.
There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village.
Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut,
Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries.
Thatched were the roof s,with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting
Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway.
There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset
Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys,
Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles
Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden
Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors
Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens.
Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children
Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them.
Reverend walked he among them; and up rose matrons and maidens,
Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welcome.
Then came the laboieis home from the field, and serenely the sun sank
' Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry
Softly the Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village
Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending,
Roee from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment.
Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers-
Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from
Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics.
Ne.ither locks had they to thoir doors, nor bars to their windows;
But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners;
There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance."

Cape Split.

WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE. 255
The pathos and appeal of the Acadian story, as told by Longfellow,
should not be allowed to blind us to the fact that the pitiful fate of the
Acadians was a measure of absolutely necessary justice. In spite of
the most earnest pleadings, the frankest threatenings, and forty years
of unparalleled forbearance, exercised long after forbearance had
ceased to be a virtue, the Acadians persisted in a deadly enmity to a
government whose subjects they unquestionably were. They refused
to allow themselves to be considered as other than enemies, and not
only did they engage, along with the savages, in occasional bloody
raids upon the English settlements, but their presence in the colony
made a point of almost fatal weakness in its defenses, at a time when
England was engaged in what was practically a life-and-death struggle
with her great antagonist. The indulgence of the English Government
was repaid by the Acadians with hatred, and sometimes with the
scalping-knife. Undoubtedly these people believed they were acting
aright. Had they been left to themselves, they would have become, in
the course of a generation, loyal and contented subjects. But they
were made the tools of French intrigue. From Quebec every effort was
continually put forth to keep alive their bitterness against their con
querors, and their belief that Acadia would once more be brought be
neath the sway of France. When they began to show signs of a desire
to accept the situation, and when persuasion on the part of Quebec
became ineffectual, then threats were employed, and they were menaced
with the tomahawks of the savages. The authorities at Quebec had no
scruples. Sometimes violence was resorted to, and the exile of the
Acadians was begun by Le Loutre before the English had thought of
it. Hundreds of Acadians, who were becoming reconciled to English
rule, were forced by Le Loutre to move into French territory, where
they suffered unbounded hardships. Their homes were burned behind
them, and whole villages were thus depopulated, in obedience to a
heartless policy. The Acadians were a simple and ignorant people,
easily led by their superiors, and hence on a final estimate they must
be regarded as more sinned against than sinning. But those who
wrought their ruin and deserved their curse were not the English, but
their own countrymen. The removal of the Grand Pre Acadians was
accomplished with combined firmness and gentleness by Colonel Win-
slow, of Boston, with his New England troops ; and his journal, though
full of commiseration for this unhappy people, shows that he did not
consider the justice of their sentence in the least degree open to ques-

256 WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE.
tion. After the exile was accomplished many of the Acadians escaped
to Quebec, where their lot was pitiful indeed compared with that of
those who remained in the American colonies. Among men of alien
speech and faith they were at least humanely treated ; but at Quebec
they were cheated and starved, and died like sheep, having fallen to
the tender mercies of Bigot and his creatures. The period at which
these exiles fled to Quebec is not a bright one in French-Canadian
annals. After the removal of the Acadians their fair inheritance lay
vacant for years ere men of English speech entered upon it.
Wolfville to Annapolis.
Wolfville is a remarkably pretty little university town, embow
ered in apple-orchards, and ranged on a sunny slope facing the marshes,
the blue Basin, and Blomidon. Its population, according to the census
of 1881, was 1,880; but in the census now being taken it will give a
better account of itself. On the other side of the great ridge behind
the town lies the deep romantic Valley of the Gaspereaux, which is said
by some travelers to resemble the valley of the Dee. A short walk
from Wolfville over the hill will take one into scenes that have never
been done justice to by the artist's brush. The upper waters of the
Gaspereaux afford some good salmon-fishing, and the chain of lakes
from which it flows is well stocked with trout. The town of Wolfville
is dominated by the Baptist university of Acadia College, with its asso
ciated institutions for the education of boys and girls. All these
institutions are flourishing and largely attended. The president of
the college is Dr. Sawyer, who secures a very loyal and vigorous sup
port for the institution from the denomination under whose auspices
it is conducted. The university building occupies a fine site on the
hillside, and shows up very effectively as seen from the passing train.
Wolfville has several hotels, the best of which is perhaps the American
House. The great cape of Blomidon, the sentinel of the Evangeline land,
may be reached by driving from Wolfville, or from Kentville by taking
the new Cornwallis Valley R. R. to Kingsport and driving thence. It
is about 18 miles from Wolfville to Blomidon, a lovely drive all the
way. The first 9 miles is across the famed Cornwallis Valley to
the little town of Canning. This valley is indeed the garden of the
province. It is traversed by four rivers— the Cornwallis, Canard, Can-

WOLFVILLE TO ANNAPOLIS. 25?
ning, and Pereau. - Its deep alluvial soil is of quenchless fertility. Its
climate, protected by the lofty range of North Mountain from the fogs
and storms of Fundy, has the sparkle of sea air with the softness of
the most favored inland regions. In many of its charming character
istics, and particularly by reason of its abounding orchards, it recalls
the Niagara Peninsula. Some distance beyond Canning the road be
gins to wind up the side of North Mountain, and then runs along
the crest to the lofty point of vantage called the Look-off, whence
one gazes into five counties. The glorious panorama seen from this
point is something one must go far to equal. Four miles farther on
the range of North Mountain breaks down in magnificent abruptness of
cliff, nearly 600 ft., to the tide-swept Basin of Minas. This cliff-front
is Blomidon, and the expert climber may explore its somber ramparts
for amethysts and garnets, opal and agate, chalcedony and copper,
malachite and psilomelane, or for that fabled crystal, the Diamond of
Blomidon, whose radiance reveals itself only to the distant watcher,
and evades anything like a close scrutiny.
Two miles beyond Wolfville is the station of Port Williams, whence
quantities of apples, potatoes, and cattle are shipped. Then we for
sake the marshes for a time, and find them very straitened when we
meet them again as we draw near Kentville. Kentville is a busy
town packed into a remarkably lovely littlo valley, along with a bit of
tidal river, a brawling amber brook overhung with willows, splendid
trees, and great variety in very scanty room. Everything appears on
a diminutive scale. Everywhere is close to everywhere else in Kent
ville, and the place has a peculiar and distinctive charm in spite of its
summer heat. That is a small drawback, however, for when quite
roasted out one need turn aside but a dozen paces, climb a hill-top, and
cool himself comfortably. Kentville is also dusty; but this matters
little, for no wind can get at the dust to make it troublesome. The
population of Kentville is something over 2,000. It has several hotels,
the most popular of which are " Lyon's," next to the station, and " The
Kentville." At Kentville we are 71 miles from Halifax, and here the
train stops fifteen minutes for refreshments. From the station we may
take the new Cornwallis Valley R. R. for Canning and the apple-ship
ping village of Kingsport, on Minas Basin. The fare for this trip is
50 cents ; return, 75 cents. Charming drives also may be taken from
Kentville to Hall's Harbor and Baxter's Harbor, over North Mountain,
on the Bay of Fundy shore.
17

258 WOLFVILLE TO ANNAPOLIS.
Leaving Kentville we pass the stations of Coldbrook (76 miles from
Halifax), Cambridge (78 miles), Waterville (80 miles), the thriving
manufacturing town of Berwick (83 miles), famous for its Methodist
Camp-meeting Grounds, and Aylesford (88 miles). In the neighbor
hood of Aylesford is the great chain of wilderness waters, called the
Aylesford Lakes. Here, too, is a sand plain, 13 miles long by half as
much in width, sprinkled, in a, niggardly fashion with coarse, thin
grasses, and rejoicing in the title of the "Devil's Goose Pasture." Next
comes Auburn (90 miles), and then Kingston (95 miles). A short drive
from Kingston is the pretty village of Melvern Square. Three miles
beyond Kingston is the station of Wilmot, whence one may drive to
the Wilmot Spa Springs. There is a summer hotel at the springs —
though just at the moment of writing it happens to be burned down ;
and good lodgings may be obtained at private houses in the neigh
borhood. The waters of the springs are growing rapidly in re
pute, and a delicious, sparkling ginger ale is manufactured from
them. They have a great medicinal value, and taste much less like
a combination of old shoes and burnt gunpowder than such waters
usually do.
The next stopping-place is Middleton, 102 miles from Halifax.
This is a town growing rapidly in importance and population. It has
rich copper and iron mines in its vicinity, and is the northwestern ter
minus of the Nova Scotia Central Railway. Its chief hotels are the
American House and Middleton Hotel. Near Middleton are the lovely
Nictaux Falls. The trains of the Nova Scotia Central run through
fine and varied scenery. They leave Middleton at 2.30 p. M., and reach
Springfield at 3.57, New Germany at 4.30, Bridgewater at 5.35, and
Lunenburg at 6.30. Six miles beyond Middleton is the pretty pastoral
village of Lawrencetown, on the winding, upper waters of the historic
Annapolis Blver. There is a hotel here called the Elm House.
Three miles farther is the farming and lumbering settlement of Para
dise, with fine granite in the neighborhood. Within easy reach are
capital trout-waters. Next we come to Bridgetown, 116 miles from
Halifax and 14 from Annapolis. This is a stirring little town of some
thing over 1,000 inhabitants, at the head of navigation on the Annapo
lis River. It has good water-power, which it utilizes in furniture and
organ factories. The surrounding country is prosperous and thickly
settled, which gives Bridgetown a large local trade. In the neighbor
hood is Bloody Brook, so called from a massacre of New England

WOLFVILLE TO ANNAPOLIS. 259
troops by the French and their Indian allies. The chief hotels of
Bridgetown are Chute's and the Grand Central.
From Bridgetown to Annapolis is the prettiest part of the journey
after leaving Kentville. The views from the car-windows are lull of
quiet and varied charm — richly wooded slopes, sunny bits of meadow
and winding river, and in the distance the blue hills. Midway between
Bridgetown and Annapolis is the station of Roundhill.
Annapolis to Yarmouth.
At Annapolis we arrive about one o'clock; and if we are going
right through to Digby we stay on the train, which presently carries us
out upon the steamboat wharf. The old historic town of Annapolis,
or Annapolis Royal, has a fair and sheltered site, and we fail to won
der that it attracted the regard of French navigators fresh from the
rough breast of Fundy. The Basin was discovered by that expedition
of De Monts and Champlain, in 1604, that went on to found the ill-fated
settlement on St. Croix Island. The survivors remembered affection
ately the lovely shores of the Basin, and fled back thither from St.
Croix. The region was granted to Baron Poutrincourt, who named it
Port Royal ; and in 1606 came a little colony, of whom the leading
spirit was one Mark Lescarbot, who became the chronicler of the set
tlement. He inaugurated that " Order of a Good Time," whose high
hearted mirth makes so bright a spot in those annals of strife and
privation. The members of the order were fifteen, and their head
was the " steward," whose office was held for a day at a time by each
member in turn. The steward's responsibility was heavy. He had to
provide an attractive bill of fare for the day's dinner — and material
for such a task was not always abundant at Port Royal. At each feast
it was requisite that there should be one entirely new delicacy. To
ward spring the wine ran low, and instead of three quarts to each mem
ber the daily allowance was reduced to one poor pint. This merry
order doubtless did much to keep up the heart of the lonely little colony
during the long and trying winter ; and only three deaths occurred. In
the month of January the order went on a six-mile picnic, to see if the
corn they had sown in November had begun to sprout beneath the snow !
Trouble began at Port Royal through the interference of the Jesuits,
to whom Poutrincourt was unfriendly. The Jesuits in a short time
left the colony and established a new settlement called St. Sauveur, at

260 ANNAPOLIS TO YARMOUTH.
Mount Desert. When this was destroyed by a Virginian expedition
under Argall, the Jesuits led the enemy on to Port Royal, which was
speedily laid waste. Thus began, in 1613, the struggle between France
and England for the New World, which ended not till 1763. From its
founding till its capture by New-Englanders in 1710, the story of Port
Royal is an endless succession of captures and recaptures, and chang
ing masters. In 1710 its name was altered to Annapolis Royal. In
the next year occurred the massacre of Bloody Brook, already referred
to ; and though from this date Annapolis remained in the hands of the
English, the following forty years saw it kept in an almost perpetual
state of siege by the hostile Indians and Acadians. After the exile
of the Acadians the settlement tasted the unwonted delights of peace
till 1781, when it was attacked in the night by two American war
ships. The fort was captured and its guns spiked ; and the towns-folk .
were locked up in the block-house while the unwelcome visitors looted
the town. The old block-house may yet be seen, and much of the fort
is still in good repair. The view from its ramparts of sod is very love
ly and altogether unwarlike. The fort is imperial property, as is also
Fort Edward at Windsor. Most of the other strongholds in Canada,
outside of Halifax, were surrendered by England to the Canadian Gov
ernment at the time of confederation, in 1867.
Annapolis had in 1881 a population of 2,800. Its chief hotels are
the Hillsdale, American, and Clifton. The town is almost surrounded
by water, an extension of the Basin on one side, and on the other the
Annapolis River, crossed here by a ferry to the pretty village of Gran
ville. To north and south stretch the sheltering, high green walls of
North and South Mountains, and to eastward opens the magnificent
expanse of the great landlocked haven, 18 miles long by 1 to 5 in
width, called Annapolis Basin. The view down the Basin from Annapo
lis is partly obstructed by Goat Island. At present ono must take the
stage down the shore of the Basin, if he would visit the villages of
Clementsport and Bear River; and to Digby one goes either by the
St. John boat, City of Monticello, or by the little steamer Evangeline,
connecting at Digby with the Western Counties Railway for Wey
mouth and Yarmouth. In the course of two or three months, how
ever — that is, during this summer of 1891 — the railway known as the
" Missing Link " is to be completed, connecting Digby and Annapolis
by rail. Clementsport is a shipping village in the neighborhood of rich
deposits of iron-ore. These mines were worked for a time and aban-

ANNAPOLIS TO YARMOUTH. 20 1
doned, but will probably be reopened ere long. From the village
roads run inland to the picturesque Blue Mountain (held sacred by
the Indians), and to the wonderful trout-waters of the Liverpool Lakes.
Bear River, 9 miles from Digby, is a busy little shipping port, with
Baw-mills and a tannery. It is most romantically situated in a deep
valley, so sheltered that Spring finds her way thither some weeks be
fore she can be persuaded to smile on the rest of the province. The
time to visit Bear River is emphatically in the cherry-season — for her
cherries are nowhere to be surpassed.
It is a lovely sail down the Basin to Digby, on the calm tide, be
tween the varied and many-colored shores. Digby, which lies on a
curve of shore just beyond the opening called Digby Gut, is a favorite
summer resort, and well supplied with hotels. The chief of these is the
Myrtle House, followed by the Royal, Crozier's, Short's, and De Balin-
hard's. Digby has the invigorating sea air of the Bay of Fundy, which
is only 3 miles distant, behind the mountain, and is free from the fog
and the chill. The sea-bathing is good, though colder than at'Annapo-
lis, and there is good sport to be had in the way of salt-water fishing ;
while the boating, of course, is all that could be wished. Digby has a
population of between 2,000 and 3,000, and is extensively engaged in
ship-building and fisheries. The herring known as " Digby chickens "
are famous throughout the Maritime Provinces for their delicacy. A
prominent object near the station is a field full of little wooden plat
forms, on which the split cod are dried for export. The pier of Digby
is a long and lofty structure, at different portions of which a landing is
effected, according to the state of the tide. The fluctuation of tide
here is somewhere about 40 ft., and the tremendous currents every now
and then work disaster for the pier, which seems forever being rebuilt.
The traveler who is bound for St. John turns northwestward from
Digby. After steaming a couple of miles along a fair and lofty sloping
shore, the steamer enters the fine scenery of Digby Gut, or, as it was
called of old, St. George's Channel. This passage is a gigantic cleft in
the North Mountain, nearly 2 miles through, and about half a mile in
width, with bold, darkly-wooded shores from 500 to 600 ft. in height.
On the eastern slope perch a few airy cottages, making up an ideal
fishing village ; and the reddish-gray lines of a winding road seem as if
they were painted on the steep incline. Through the " Gut " sweep
terrific tides, boiling and eddying, and tossing violently the fishermen's
boats which dot its surface. The Fundy gate of the passage is usually

262 ANNAPOLIS TO YARMOUTH.
white with surf. Digby Gut is satisfying, always, to the lover of the
picturesque ; but it is never more so than when one enters it from the
bay, and looks through its grand portals into the favored haven beyond.
The traveler bound for Yarmouth takes the train of the Western
Counties Railway at the head of the pier, and presently is carried into
Digby Station. The fare from Digby to Yarmouth is $2, and the dis
tance 77 miles. The railway lies some distance back from the coast,
along which are most of the settlements ; and travelers who wish to
visit the picturesque Acadian district of Clare may do' so very con
veniently from Digby by driving. Clare is settled by returned Aca
dian exiles, and maintains its peculiar individuality with great persist
ence. It is almost as quaint as Chezzetcook. The settlements are like
one long village street, for miles ; and back of the cottages run the
narrow strips of the oft-subdivided farms. The district lies along the
shores of the deep bay of St. Mary's, whose waters are separated only
by a narrow isthmus from those of the Annapolis Basin. The bay is
divided from the Bay of Fundy by the long line of mountains, a con
tinuation of North Mountain, known as Digby Neck. This curious
peninsula, which is only from a mile to a mile and a half in width,
runs 20 miles seaward, and is continued for another 20 miles by Long
Island and Brier Island. The Neck and the Islands are settled by a
picturesque and hardy fishing population, whose centers are the quaint
out-of-the-workl villages of Sandy Cove, Free Port, and Weslporl,
reached by stage and ferries from Digby. The most important station
on the Western Counties Railway, after leaving Digby, is Weymouth,
a remarkably pretty little ship-building town at the mouth of the Sis-
siboo River, some distance up St. Mary's Bay. Weymouth has a large
West India trade, and a population of about 1,80Q. The chief hotel
is the American House. Two or three miles up the river is the village
of Weymouth Bridge, whose chief inn is Jones's Hotel. A short dis
tance beyond foam the pretty Sissiboo Falls. Soon the railroad
leaves St. Mary's Bay and strikes through a rough country dotted with
trout-waters, to Yarmouth. The most important stations on this sec
tion of the line are Metsgan, Brazil Lake, Ohio, and Hebron. Yar
mouth has been already described. The train stops at Yarmouth Sta
tion, and then runs down on to the wharf with the passengers for the
boat. Presently the traveler finds himself moving slowly down the
Yarmouth River, emerging from whose narrow pass the boat heads
straight across the open Atlantic for Boston.

Canadian Salmon Rivers and Oaspi Basin.

APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.

Tourists who seek Eastern Canada for the sake of sport may look
for certain general information which has not seemed to find a place
readily in the foregoing pages. In regard to supplies, it may be noted
that they can generally be obtained in Canadian cities at a much lower
price, for like quality, than in the great American centers. The Ca
nadian dealers have the advantage of a lighter tariff, and they do not
charge fancy prices. Tackle of all kinds, of the best Canadian and
English manufacture, can be bought in Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, St.
John, or Halifax, at figures which would be impossible in New York
or Boston. The favorite " all-round " rod of the present writer is a
heavy trout-rod with which he has killed some fine salmon. It is made
of green-heart and lance-wood, nickel-mounted, and with neat basket-
work grip ; and it cost but $10. It was made by Scribner, of St. John.
Supplies that are obviously personal are usually passed through
the customs without demur. But luxuries like tobacco, with eatables
and drinkables generally, are pretty sure to be taxed ; and the trav
eler may save himself trouble by waiting till he is across the border
before laying in his stock. Canadian tobacco is but American leaf
made up in Canada. As for wearing apparel, that is regarded very
liberally, and one may take an ample wardrobe without being ques
tioned.. No one wants to smuggle clothing from America into Canada,
for obvious reasons. Let the sportsman, then, come generously sup
plied with warm flannels (unless he prefers to purchase these en route),
for, however hot the days may be on Canadian fishing-waters, the
nights are apt to be chilly.
A word in regard to board in private houses. This is usually plain,
and always inexpensive. It is not often as high as $1 per day or $5
per week. Throughout the Maritime Provinces, at least, good accom
modations may be found almost anywhere at $4 per week. Guides
and camp help ask from $1 to $1.50 per day, according to locality.
On the Tobique River an Indian guide supplies his services and his
canoe for $1 or $1.25 per day, and his board. The variation in the

264

APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.

charge is dependent on the season, the guide's humor, and the demand
for his services. On the Restigouche a guide with canoe charges
$1.50 a day, and finds himself ; or $1.25 per day with board.
To avoid disappointments, the tourist should bear in mind that in
the provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick the best salmon rivers,
and many of the best trout-waters, are leased to private persons or
fishing clubs. Lists of the leased waters are issued annually by the
Provincial Governments, and full information on the subject may be
obtained by application to the Fisheries Commissioners of these
two provinces, at Quebec and Fredericton respectively. Armed with
such information, the true sportsman will find no difficulty in getting
the hospitality of most of the leased waters extended to him, for a
longer or shorter period. In Ontario and Nova Scotia the waters are not
leased, as a rule, and the fishing rights rest primarily in the hands of
the riparian owners, who, indeed, sometimes lease their privileges. In
Nova Scotia sportsmen, as a rule, fish wherever they find good waters,
without making any minute inquiry into riparian rights. This freedom
is a great convenience to the hasty traveler, who does not make up his
mind till the last moment as to the direction of his wanderings.

LIST OF LESSEES AND NUMBER OF FISH CAUGHT BY ANGLING
EST THE RIVEES OF QUEBEC DURING THE YEAR 1890.
(From the Report of the Commissioner of Crown Lands.)
North Shore.

rivers.

Yearly rent.

No. of
salmons.

No. of
trout.

Godbout 
York 
Saguenay Opart) 
Little Saguenay 
Trinity 
Murray 
Moisic 
St. Jean (Chicoutimi) 
A. Mars 
Laval 
Ste. Marguerite (North branch)
Ste. Marguerite (West branch)
Wessonneau, etc 
A la Truite (St. Maurice) 
Pebeloganang 

John Alfred Petit 
Thomas Murdoch 
J. G. Aylwin Creighton.
N. Pendleton Rogers 
John D. Gilmour 
D. C. Thomson* 
John Holliday 
Evan John Price 
C. W. Philippe..! '.'.'.'.'.'.'.
Walter M. Brackett 
Ste. Marguerite Salmon
Club 
R. Kieonan 
Henry E. Hart 
T. V. R. Brown 

550 25
405 130 60
105
180
305 91
85
355 151510

15 oua
naniche
No fishing
113

No fishing 24

No fishing

None 1

70
690
"50

* Transferred to W. H. Blake, Toronto.

APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.

265

North Shore. — (Continued.)

rivers.

Metabetchouan (central part)
Mastigoucbe 
Metabetchouan (upper part). .
Tourilli and Ste. Anne t 
Jacques-Cartier 

St. Augustin 
Little Trinity 
Etamamiou 
Wasbeecootai 
Jeannotte 
Mistassini 
A la Truite (Saguenay) 
Bee Scie (or Sheldrake) 
Corneille 
Dickey 
Islands of Grand Discharge. . .
Metabetchouan (lower part). . ,
Grand and Little Peribonka . .
Boetomias 
Rivie're du Loup 
Mistassini (Lake St. John) 
Islands of Lake St. John 
Natashquan 
Des Envies 
Shawenigan (pt.) 
Ouiatchouan (part) 

Ed. Brewer 
Mrs. Eliz. Blanchard. . .
Amo6 R. Little * 
Tourilli F. & G. Club..
Lakes and R. Jacques
Cartier F. & G. Club.
C. S. Campbell 
Edson Fitch 
J. G. A. Creighton 
Gen. W. T. W. Ripley .
" Orleans F. &, G. Club'
W. H.Parker 
Ed. Werner 
Henri Simard 
W. W.Watson 
Rev; Alf . Reynar 
B. A. Scott 
E. Wurtele 
H. J. Beemer 
T. M. Ryder 
Col. Fiuley Anderson . .
J. P. Mullarky 
H. J. Beemer 
Chas. H. Butler 
Arthur D. Ritchie 
L. A. Boyer 
P. H. Dumais 

Yearly rent.

188130
188 30 15
75
45 55
210 150 25 5
15
9510201040
25
120 2020
150 10 5

No. of
salmons.

No fishing

No fishing 1

No fishing

No fishing
No fishing

No fishiDg

No. of
trout. 931
2,485 717
2,594

354

919

* Transferred to the " Penn Fishing and Game Club of Quebec," Oct. 2, 1890.
t Transferred to W. H. Blake, Toronto.
South Shore.

Nouvelle 
Little Cascapedia 
Restigouche (first part). . .
Restigouche {second part)
Restigouche (fourth part).
Restigouche (fifth part). . .
Little Pabos 
Grand River 
Spider and Arnold 
Bonaventure 
Matapedia 
Grand Pabos (N.S.B.)...
Ste. Anne des Monts 
Dartmouth 
Grand Cascapedia 

Benj. Wey 
W. M. Ramsay 
Dr. F. W. Campbell 
" Restigouche S. Club " .
James Robinson 
Samuel Davis 
Louis Cabot 
L. Z. Joncas, M. P 
The Megantic F. & G.
Club, P. Q 
W. H. Thorne 
Sir Geo. Stephen 
Henry Hogan 
Stephens W. White! . . . .
H. E., the Gov.-General .

$105 255 250230 101 5
410 60
100
1,250 260 80
250505 1

2
39

24
No fishing

101 66 3
7221
187

136550

90

The following list gives the present lessees of New Brunswick
waters :
Restigouche River : From mouth of Hpsalquiteh to Toad Brook, H.
B. HoUius, of New York ; from Toad Brook to Tom's Brook, Samuel

^86 APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.
Thome, of New York ; from Tom's Brook to Tatapedia River, Laines
M. Waterbury, of New York ; from Tatapedia to Tracey's Brook, Res
tigouche Salmon Club, of New York ; from Tracey's Brook to Qua-
tawamkedgwick, Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, New York ; from I. C.
R. R. Bridge to mouth of Upsalquitch, Restigouche Salmon Club, New
York ; from below I. C. R. R. Bridge to Flatlands, Micmac Salmon Club ;
below Flatlands, held by local lessees.
Jacquet River, Samuel Street, of New York.
Upsalquitch : From mouth to Forks, Ezra C. Fitch, of Waltham,
Mass. ; remainder of stream and branches, Ezra C. Fitch, of Waltham,
Mass. Nepisiguit : From mouth to Indian Reserve, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis,
Mo. ; from Indian Reserve to Great Falls, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis, Mo. ;
from Great Falls to head of river, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis, Mo.
Miramichi : Northwest and branches above Big Sevogle, R. R. Call,
Newcastle, N. B.
Pokemouche River and branches, K. F. Burns, Bathurst, N. B.
Big Tracadie and branches, Edward Jack, Fredericton, N. B.
Renous and Dungarvan, M. Tennant, Fredericton, Dungarvan Fish
ing Club.
Green River, The Tobique Salmon Club, W. T. Whitehead, Fred
ericton. Tocologan (Charlotte), James H. Ganong, St. Stephen.
Kedron stream and lakes (Charlotte), E. H. Bradshaw, Boston.
Clear Lake (St. John), James F. Hamilton, St. John.
South Oeomocto Lake, W. H. Barnaby, St. John.
Tobique and branches, The Tobique Salmon Club.
Cain's River and branches, A. S. Murray, Fredericton.
Tabusintac River, Thomas R. Jones.
THE LAKE ST. JOHN COUNTRY.
The management of the Hotel Roberval at Lake St. John controls
considerable ouananiche fishing, which is open to guests of the hotel.
This fishing is at its best in June and early July, although there is a
renewal of activity in September. The late July and August fishing is
characterized by more than the proverbial uncertainty of piscatorial
pursuits, but there is always trout-fishing as a compensation. The
following is a list of fishing-clubs along the line of the Quebec and
Lake St. John Railway :

APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. 267
Little Saguenay. Metabetchouan.
Talbot (open on payment of a fee). Paradise Fin and Feather.
Laurentides. Lake Quaquakamaksis.
Tardival. Springfield Club.
Stadacona. Riviere Noire.
A. L. Light, Large Lake Batiscan. Lac au Lare.
All these clubs are of comparatively recent formation. On return
ing from the Lake St. John country to the St. Lawrence, the sportsman
will find that practically all the salmon and trout rivers flowing into
the St. Lawrence, and those in the Quebec peninsula known as Gaspesia,
are held by lessees. In some cases arrangements can be made for a
few days of fishing. It is always best to make careful inquiries in ad
vance, for the sportsman must abandon the idea that he can fish for
salmon wherever the spirit moves him. Trout-fishing, however, is easily
obtainable, as a rule. As regards hunting and fishing licenses from
the Government for strangers, experience seems to indicate that they
are rarely insisted upon, at least in the case of the fisherman.
Close Seasons.
The close seasons for fish and game, in the provinces traversed in
this hand-book, are as follows :
PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
Fishing. — Salmon, trout, and whitefish between November 1 and
10. Fresh-water herring, from October 15 to December 1. Speckled
trout, brook-trout, river-trout, from September 15 to May 1. Bass,
April 15 to June 15. Pickerel, maskinonge, April 15 to June 15.
Hunting. — No quail shall be taken or killed between December 15
and October 15 following. Grouse, pheasants, partridges between
January 1 and September 1. Woodcock, January 1 to August 15.
Snipe, rail, golden plover, January 1 to September 1. Swans or geese,
May 1 to September 1. Ducks of all kinds, and all other fowl, Janu
ary 1 to September 1. Hares, March 15 to September 1. Beaver,
muskrat, mink, sable, martin, otter, or fisher, May 1 to November 1.
Deer, November 20 to October 15. Moose and caribou protected en
tirely until October 15, 1895. Quail can not be shot for exportation
or sale, and partridge for exportation until October, 1892.
No person who has not been a resident of this province or Quebec
for three months next before October 15, can kill deer, except he

268 APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.
hold a permit from the Commissioner of Crown Lands, which may be
obtained for $10. No person shall kill more than 5 deer; no two,
hunting together, more than 8 ; and no party of three or more, more
than 12. PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
Fishing. — Salmon (angling), from August 15 to February 1 ; the
same (Restigouche River), August 15 to May 1. Speckled trout (Sal-
mo fontinalis), brook or river trout, from October 1 to January 1.
Large gray trout, lunge, and ouananiche,* from October 15 to December
1. Pickerel (dore), from April 15 to May 15. Bass and maskinonge,
from April 15 to June 15. Whitefish, from November 10 to December 1.
N. B. — Angling by hand (with hook and line) is the only means
permitted to be used for taking fish. (No person who is not domiciled
in the province of Quebec can at any time fish in the lakes or rivers
of this province, not actually under lease, without having previously
obtained a permit to that effect from the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
Such permit is valuable for a fishing season, and is not transferable.)
Hunting. — Caribou, from February 1 to September 1. Deer, from
January 1 to October 1.
N. B. — The hunting of moose, caribou, or deer, with dogs or by
means of snares, traps, etc., is prohibited. No person (white man or
Indian) has a right, during one season's hunting, to kill or take alive
— unless he has previously obtained a permit from the Commissioner
of Crown Lands for that purpose — more than 3 caribou and 4 deer.
After the first ten days of the close season, all railroads and steam
boat companies and public carriers are forbidden to carry the whole or
any part (except the skin) of any moose, caribou, or deer without
being authorized thereto by the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
Beaver, mink, otter, martin, pekan, from April 1 to November 1.
Hare, from February 1 to November 1. Muskrat (only in the counties
of Maskinonge, Yamaska, Richelieu, and Berthier), from May 1 to April
1 following. Woodcock, snipe, partridge of any kind, from February
1 to September 1. Black duck, teal, wild duck of any kind (except
sheldrake and gull), from May 1 to September 1. (And at any time of
* The original Indian name of this remarkable fish is ouananiche.
The common pronunciation of the word is " wininish," and this spell
ing is often adopted. The word sometimes appears as " winninish "
and " wananish."

APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. 269
the year, between one hour after sunset and one hour before sunrise,
and also to keep exposed during such prohibited hours, lures or decoys,
etc.; guns of larger bore than No. 8 prohibited.) Birds known as
perchers, such as swallows, king-birds, warblers, fly-catchers, wood
peckers, whip-poor-wills, finches (song-sparrows, redbirds, indigo birds,
etc.), cow-buntings, titmice, goldfinches, grives (robins, wood-thrushes,
etc.), kinglets, bobolinks, grakles, grossbeaks, humming-birds, cuckoos,
owls, etc., except eagles, falcons, hawks, and other birds of the Fal-
conidce, wild pigeons, kingfishers, crows, ravens, wax-wings (ricollets),
shrikes, jays, magpies, sparrows, and starlings, from March 1 to Sep
tember 1. To take nests or eggs of wild duck, teal, wild goose, or swan
is prohibited. N. B. — Fine of $2 to $100, or imprisonment in default of payment.
No person who is not domiciled in the province of Quebec, nor in that
of Ontario, can at any time hunt in this province without having pre
viously obtained a license to that effect from the Commissioner of
Crown Lands. Such permit is not transferable. The export of deer,
wild turkeys, quail, and partridge in carcasses or parts thereof from the
Dominion at any time is prohibited. Penalty, $100 and forfeiture.
PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK.
Shooting. — It is unlawful to hunt, take, kill, or wound any moose,
deer, or red deer, during three years after April 6, 1888, under a pen
alty not exceeding $200, nor less than $100. Beaver, otter, mink, sable,
and fisher, May 1 to September 1. Grouse or partridge, December 1
to September 20. Woodcock, December 1 to September 1. Snipe,
March 1 to September 15. Black duck, wood duck, and teal, May 1 to
September 1. Other ducks, brant, geese, and other water-fowl shall
not be hunted with artificial light, nor with swivel nor punt guns, or
trapped or netted at any time. Sea-gulls are protected in the parish
of Grand Manan at all seasons ; song-birds and insectivorous birds en
tirely protected. No person not having his domicile in the province
of New Brunswick shall be entitled to hunt or kill any game bird or
animal, or fur-bearing animal, in the province without a license, which
may be obtained from the Provincial Secretary, Fredericton, N. B., or
from J. De Wolfe Spurr, Esq., Chief Game Commissioner, St. John,
N. B., by payment of a fee of $20 — license to be in force for one year
from the 1st day of September in each year. Officers of her Majesty's
service can obtain a license for $5.

270

APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN.

NEW BRUNSWICK AND NOVA SCOTIA.
Fishing — Salmon (net-fishing), August 15 to. March 1. Salmon
(angling), September 15 to February 1. Salmon (Restigouche River),
August 15 to May 1. Speckled trout, October 1 to April 1. Large
gray trout, lunge, ouananiche, and landlocked salmon, October 1 to
April 1. Sea-bass, March 1 to October 1. Smelts, April 1 to July 1.
Lobsters, July 1 to December 31. Sturgeon, August 31 to May 1.
Oysters, June 1 to September 15. The use of explosives or poisonous
substances for killing fish is illegal.
From the time of low water nearest six o'clock in the afternoon of
every Saturday to the time of low water nearest six o'clock in the fore
noon of every Monday, no one shall fish for, catch, or kill salmon in
tidal waters.
In non-tidal waters frequented by salmon no one shall fish for,
catch, or kill salmon or any other fish between nine o'clock in the even
ing of every Saturday and six o'clock on the following Monday morning.

THE NET RESULT

THE WINDSOK & ANNAPOLIS KALLWAY
(OF NOVA SCOTIA)
i6 the beau-ideal of the Tourist's Road, the best and most recent improvements— Bteel rails,
air-brakes, new rolling-stock— making travel a luxury, through scenes over which LONG
FELLOW lavished the splendors of his imaginative genius. Baggage checked to all points,
and no dust thrown in Passengers' eyes, even in this Advertisement.
BEAD THIS : The Railway runs through the far-famed Annapolis Valley, the garden
of the Maritime Provinces, and over ground where the love-tragedy of
EVANGELINE
was woven in Fate's shuttle. The beauties of seascape and landscape can
NEVER
be excelled elsewhere, and the scenes made so real and familiar in the work of the greatest
American Poet are here, every one. Through the car-windows the enchanted traveler sees
the old Willows, the Site of the Church, and Basil's Blacksmith Shop. Evangeline
SAW
her people building the twenty-three miles of Dike, to keep at bay the turbulent tides, and
where "distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre lay in the fruitful valley,"
whence far away to the eastward as far as eye can reach, stretch vast meadows pictured by
LONGFELLOW
with magic pen. Cross the Gaspereaux River. See the quiet loveliness of the Basin of
Minas, and where Blomidon crouches in lonely grandeur, keeping
WATCH
and ward over the point of embarkation, from which the Acadian exiles saw with streaming
eves the last of their old homes. In the distance lie the Five Islands, like precious stones
"set in the silver sea." Visit Kentville and go to the Look-Off on the North Mountain ;
stop at Wolfville and Acadia College ; then to the Gaspereaux Valley ; now on to Windsor,
where all TOURISTS
visit the home of immortal '.' SAM SLICK, " known at his own fireside as Judge Haliburton ;
see King's College, also the immense Gypsum Quarries. Don't forget to keep an eye on the
tides that RUSH
up-hill in the beautiful Avon River. Have a glimpse of old Fort Edward ; revel in the glo
rious Mountain Scenery ; then on
TO HALIFAX
where a feast of delight is provided for the Tourist in the great Fortifications, the magnifi
cent Harbor, the beautiful Gardens, and the finest Natural Park in the world. Health-seekers
won't fail to remember that in traveling
BY THE WINDSOR AND ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY
they are in one of the best climates on the footstool, where the air is the only medicine re-
auired to keep you fresh as paint.
* CSHE-A-IP IF-A_~RES-
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN EVERY TOWN AT REASONABLE RATES.
SPLENDID STEAMSHIPS RUNNING IN CONNECTION TO AND
FROM BOSTON AND ST. JOHN, N. B„ Tn||.u
WHILE DAILY CONNECTIONS ARE MADE PUTTING THE PASSENGER IN TOUCH
WITH EVERY RAILWAY IN CANADA AND THE STATES.
Bay a volume of Longfellow, or look up the nearest Tourist Agency ; or, better still, take
a trip to Nova Scotia, if you want to know more about

SMIarrdlot

ONLY
Rail Route to the Delightful Summer Resorts
north of Quebec, through the
Canadian Adirondack.
Monarch Parlor and Sleeping Cars.
Magnificent Scenery.
Beautiful Climate.

TJ 6TEL ROBERVAL, Late St. John, recently enlarged, has
first-class accommodation for three hundred guests, and is
run in connection with the "Island House," a new hotel built on
an island of the Grand Discharge of Lake St. John, in the center
of the "Ouananiche" fishing grounds. Daily communication
by the new fast steamer across the lake. The fishing rights of
Lake St. John and tributaries, an area of 20,000 square miles,
are free to guests of the hotels.
For information as to Hotels, apply to Hotel Managers ; for Folders
and Guide-Boolcs, to Ticket Agents of all principal cities.

ALEX. HARDY,

General F. and P. Agent,

J. G. SCOTT,

\

Quebec, Canada.

THE

Grand Trunk Railway,
THE FAVORITE ROUTE
BETWEEN THE EAST AND WEST, NORTHWEST,
AND SOUTHWEST,
Via Niagara Falls, Portland, Quebec, Montreal, Toronto, Port
Huron, Detroit, Chicago, and Milwaukee.

THIS GREAT HIGHWAY OP TRAVEL, reaching from the Atlantic Coast to the Great
Lakes, serving alike the commercial and business interests of the United States and
British America, has justly acquired the title of " The Great International Route." The di
versified character of the country through which it passes, the many points of interest which
it reaches, and the excellent facilities it offers to the traveling public iu its superior equip
ment, through-coaches, and sleeping and dining car service, all combine to give to this line
an enviable reputation, and make it a desirable route for the traveling public in general and
to the summer tourist. Pullman and "Wagner Palace Sleeping, Parlor, and
Buffet Cars are attached to Express Trains, with commodious day-cars, having all im
provements and appliances for the comfort and safety of passengers.

The Great
Tourists' Route.

Niagara Falls
Route.

Thousand Islands Route.

White
Route.

and Quebec
Line.

The Grand Trunk Railway, in connection with the Richelieu
and Ontario Navigation Company's Steamers, offers the pleasure
of a tour via River St. Lawrence, with its Thousand Islands and
Rapids, that is unsurpassed.
In connection with the Chicago and Grand Trunk, or the Detroit, Grand
Haven and Milwaukee Railways, the superior facilities of these routes afford
those who intend traveling East or West all the advantages and comfort
that can be desired.
Any information will be furnished upon inquiry at the Company's Offices in New York,
Boaton, Portland, Me., Halifax, Montreal, Ogdensburgh, Toronto, Buffalo, Detroit, Port Hu
ron, Chicago, Milwaukee, or any of the Ticket Offices throughout the United States or Canada.
WM, EDGAR, L. J. SEARGEANT,
General Passenger Agent,
HEAD OFFICE, MONTREAL, P. Q,

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66. A Sensitive Plant. By E. and D. Gerard.
67. Dona Luz. By Don Juan Valera. Translated by Mrs. Mary J.
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APPLETONS' TOWN AND COUNTRY LIBRARY.— (Continued.)
70. The Iron Game. By Henry F. Keenan.
71. Stories of Old New Spain. By Thomas A. Janvier.
72. The Maid of Honor. By Hon. Lewis Wingfi eld.
73. In the Heart of the Storm. By Maxwell Grey.
74. Consequences. By Egerton Castle.
75. The Three Miss Kings. By Ada Cambridge.
76. A Matter of Skill. By Beatrice Whitby.
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A STRONOM Y WITH AN OPERA-GLASS.
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