11 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY New Zealand AFTER FIFTY YEARS y 1 EDWARD GIBBON WAKEFIELD. Founder of New Zealand. (from a rake print in the possession of the author.) New Zealand AFTER FIFTY YEARS BY EDWARD WAKEFIELD CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited NEW YORK, LONDON, PARIS, AND MELBOURNE Copyright, By O.M. DUNHAM. All rights reserved, £L K.889 V/ PRESS OF W. L. MERSHON &. CO., RAHWAY, N. J. U. ». A. INTRODUCTION. The development of young countries in modern times is so rapid that nothing is harder than to draw a picture of one of them at any given time which shall be faithful when taken, but yet shall not seem distorted, inaccurate, or insufficient when it comes into the hands of those for whose information it is drawn. A sketch of a country progressing as fast as New Zealand is, resembles a photograph of a horse at full gallop. The object has undergone a change even while the process is going on, and has moved far away and looks quite different before the work is completed. Thus the artist is blamed for clumsiness or inaccuracy when, in fact, he has been too skillful, too accurate,^-at the time. In order to convey a true impression of this most interesting but little un derstood country, therefore, to those not personally acquainted with it, a faithful writer must keep its past in view, and must of necessity treat of its present as a period swiftly merging into an unfathomable future. The reason why the colonies are so generally mis understood in England and on the continent of Europe, is because the inhabitants of old countries cannot realize without difficulty the marvelous prog- IN TROD UC TION. ress of mankind under the favoring conditions of successful colonization. Even among themselves, the colonies misunderstand each other from a some what similar cause. The people of each colony dis cern their own progress, but not that of their neigh bors. They imagine others are standing still while themselves are advancing. The purpose of this book is to give to all who wish to understand New Zealand, — the most re markable, in many respects, of all colonies, — the means of forming a correct idea of what she is from what she has been, and of what she is destined to be from what she is. CONTENTS. I. THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND, ... I II. THE COLONY AS IT IS, . . . . 26 III. VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES, ... 56 IV. FAUNA AND FLORA, 68 V. THE MAORI PEOPLE, 102 VI. THE WHITE POPULATION, . . . . 120 VII. TRADE AND COMMERCE, 174 VIII. BUSINESS AND TRANSIT 187 IX. POLITICS AND LAWS, I94 X. EDUCATION, 215 XI. TAXATION 2l8 XII. THE FUTURE OF THE COLONY, . . 222 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Edward Gibbon Wakefield, Founder of New Zealand. Frontispiece. Maori Canoe Putting Off. Vignette. To face page Captain James Cook, First Explorer of New Zealand, . 7 A Maori Chief of the Old School, . vq Governor Sir William F. Drummond Jervois, . . 24 English Trees on the River Maitai, Nelson, ... 32 Orchards and Flower Gardens, Waimea Road, Nelson. 48 Mount Egmont, Taranaki, .... 60 The Kiwi, a Wingless Bird, . . . 76 The Aweto, or Vegetable Caterpillar, . 82 Crossing the Teremakau in a Cage, ... 92 Hororata Sheep-Station, Canterbury, . . 98 A Wahine with her Pikanini, . ... 112 Half-Caste Girls, ... . 118 Maori Weapons — Mere — Taiaha— Quarter Staff — Liver Cutter, 119 Nelson Creek Water-Race, ... . 136 In the Southern Alps, . . . . . . . 150 Otekeike Station, ..... .156 Mining Machinery, Grahamstown, ..... 160 Views — Thames Goldfields, ... . . . 164 Aqueduct, West Coast Goldfields, . . . .172: Artificial Harbor, Otago, ... . 180 The Bealey Accommodation House, . . . . iS6. Parliament Buildings and Government House, Wellington, . 194. Sir Harry Atkinson, Premier of New Zealand, . 204 Nelson College, ....... 216- In a Master's House, Christ's College, Canterbury, 222-. Fold out NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. There is no more bewildering or oppressive fact for the student of history, than that, for countless ages from the creation of man, the main divisions of the world were unknown to each other ; and the very ¦existence of some of the finest countries in the world was not even surmised by the most enlight ened nations until quite within the modern period. A famous teacher of geography, by way of an effective object lesson, displayed to his students maps of the two hemispheres on a large scale, so contrived that at first they appeared blank, while, by withdrawing ¦one cover after another, as the lecture proceeded, the various lands and seas were exposed in the order in which they came into the world's history, Upon this plan, the southern parts of the Pacific Ocean remained veiled almost to the end of the discourse ; and it was not until the whole of the rest of the world had been disclosed and described, that the islands of New Zealand were brought into view. That they have a history of their own, going back 2 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. to a remote antiquity, is proved by the relics of hu man habitation which are found there. But it is hidden in impenetrable obscurity, — a subject merely for the speculations of the learned, and a striking illustration of the inscrutable ways of Providence. As far as we moderns are concerned, this picturesque and prolific land, teeming with all that tends to the material welfare or the intellectual delight of man, only came into existence about 250 years ago. New Zealand consists of a group of islands in the eastern part of the South Pacific Ocean, the colony- being defined in the " Boundaries of New Zealand Act, 1863," as lying between 1620 East longitude and 1 730 West longitude, and between 330 and 530 South .latitude. This boundary includes the Chatham Islands- to the east of the mainland, and the Auckland and Campbell Islands to the south ; and in 1887 the Ker- madec Islands, lying 500 miles to the north, were added to the colony. For practical purposes, New Zealand may be said to consist of two islands, called the North Island and the Middle Island, — not "North Island" and "Middle Island," as many new arrivals and some ill-informed writers call them. There is a South Island, but it is never called by that name. It is invariably called Stewart Island. It is comparatively insignificant in size, is only very sparsely inhabited at a few points on the coast, and. is almost entirely covered with dense forest. When we speak of the colony of New Zealand, we mean the North Island and the Middle Island, just as. when we speak of the United Kingdom we mean Great Britain and Ireland. The notion that New THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 3 Zealand is part of Australia is so ridiculous to any colonist that it may not be deemed worth mention ing here. But it is, nevertheless, so common amongst ignorant people of all classes elsewhere, that it may need a word of remark. New Zealand lies 1200 miles east, and stretches 600 miles south, of Australia. That is to say, its position relative to Australia is about the same as that of Turkey to England. It is sepa rated from Australia, moreover, by vast ocean depths, the telegraph cable between them lying for more than half its length 2600 fathoms be low the surface. This barrier of deep sea, more effectual than any distance, as geographers and naturalists well know, makes New Zealand a to tally different country in every respect from Aus tralia. There is nothing, in fact, in common between them by nature. Australia lies just above the sear half under the Tropic, flat and broiling like an enormous pancake, with little mountain ranges, like wrinkles by comparison with its vast expanse of plain, on its eastern confines. New Zealand rises abruptly from the colder waves of the temperate zone, and towers in the Southern Alps into the region of perpetual snow, descending again by rich plateaux or rolling hills and downs, through fertile valleys to level plains and cliffs and rocky beaches on the coast. " Australia is the lowest country for its breadth in the world. New Zealand is the highest, with the excep tion of New Guinea, whose heights are more or less mythical. There is no indigenous animal common to Australia and New Zealand, and scarcely any 4 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. plants. New Zealand stands out by itself in mid- ocean, proudly independent of any continental con nection. It even does most of its business with another group of small islands, lying almost at its antipodes. The area of New Zealand is 104,403 square miles, or 66,618,160 acres, a little less than that of Great Britain and Ireland. New Zealand is often called "The Britain of the South"; but it much more re sembles Italy in latitude, shape, climate, and natural conditions generally. If Italy were insular and sur rounded by vast tracts of water, the resemblance would be complete. Not until this geographical fact is more fully recognized than it is at present will the capabilities of the colony be fully tested. Its inhabitants are too apt to forget that they are not in Great Britain, but in a land much more like a Medi terranean country. Thus, if we projected New Zea land's latitudes on the map of the Old World, they would extend from central France, over the whole of Italy, and terminate in Africa. It is a long, narrow country, and essentially maritime. No part of it is much more than fifty miles from the sea, and most of the inhabited parts are within sight of the sea. No country in the world has more harbors, bays, sounds, and inlets. It has no great rivers, be cause there is nowhere in New Zealand sufficient space between the mountains and the sea for a river to grow great ; but it has innumerable streams, creeks, lakes, and lagoons, which make it the best-watered country in the southern hemisphere. The climate is in the fullest sense of the term temperate. There THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 5 is no excessive heat in summer and no excessive cold in winter. Yet, owing to its great length from north to south — about 1500 miles — there is a wonderful variety of climate within a narrow range of temper ature. In summer, the north of the North Island has a dash of the tropics ; while the Scottish settlers in the far south like to say that their winter reminds them of Caledonia, stern and wild. The central settlements about Cook Strait enjoy a climate so equable that summer heat and winter cold are little more than phrases. New Zealand was unknown to Europeans until the year 1642, in the reign of King Charles the First, when Anthony Van Diemen, the Dutch Governor of Batavia, despatched an expedition under the famous navigator, Abel Jansen Tasman, "for making- discoveries of the unknown South land." Tasman made the coast of New Zealand on the 10th of December, 1642, and anchored off the beach of Warewarengi, near Separation Point, Mas sacre Bay, in the Province of Nelson. He first called it Staaten Land, mistaking it for a vaguely described territory which had been discovered some time before by Schouten and Le Maire to the east of Tierra del Fuego. He says in his jour nal : " This is the second land discovered by us. We named it Staaten Land in honor of the States General. It is possible that this land joins to the Staaten Land ; but it is uncertain. It is a very fine country, and we hope it is part of the unknown South Continent." It was not until the following year, when Hendrick Brower's expe- t> NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. dition ascertained the true position of Schouten and Le Maire's Staaten Land, that Tasman's error was rectified. His new discovery was then named New Zealand, probably by the Dutch cartographers, and for no better reason than that it was supposed to lie near New Holland, just as old Zealand lies near old Holland. The name nowhere appears in Tasman's journal ; but it was used in a sculpture of the globe, showing the new discoveries, in the Staat House at Amsterdam, in 1646. A more unfortunate misnomer never occurred ; and it is difficult to believe that a man with such eyes for nature as Tasman had, could have found it in his heart to fasten on the beautiful, sunny, mountainous, ocean-crowning land he had discovered, the name of a foggy shoal like Zealand. But Tasman certainly adopted it, and to make sure that the country should not be renamed by anybody else, he registered its christening, as it were, in his chart of the South Seas, published at Amsterdam in 1655. It does not seem to have occurred to Tas man to take possession of his discovery, which he evidently regarded as a mere stage, which might or might not prove important, in his quest of New Hol land, the " unknown South Land " of the Dutch navigators ; nor does he give any very detailed ac count of the country. On the day after his arrival, one of his boats was attacked by the natives, and the quartermaster and four men were killed. Tasman gives an excellent drawing of this conflict, with an ac curate representation of a Maori war canoe, manned by eleven men. " These people," he says, " as well as we could judge, were of our common stature, THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 7 strong-boned, and of a rough voice. Their color is between brown and yellow ; their hair black, which they tie up on the crown of the head, like to the Japanese, and wear a large white feather upright in it." This is the earliest description on record of the natives of New Zealand, and it is rather remarkable that it makes no mention of their being tattooed, a peculiarity which could hardly have escaped notice. Tasman called the place Moordenaars Bay, Murder ers' Bay — whence it is called Massacre Bay to this day. This untoward event, and the fear that he should be unable to obtain water or fresh provisions, led him to sail away northward. He sighted and named several points, notably Cape Maria Van Die- man, after the wife of his patron the Governor, and the Three Kings, because they were discovered on the day of the Epiphany. He left New Zealand on the 6th of January, 1643, having never set his foot on the shore. From that date it remained unvisited for more than a century, a fact which is probably due to the disturbed state of Europe occupying the attention of the maritime nations. On the 8th of October, 1769, in the reign of King George the Third, Captain James Cook, being then on his first voyage of discovery, to observe the transit of Venus at Tahiti, landed at Poverty Bay, on the east coast of the North Island. He remained in the coun try for more than six months, and made a careful and wonderfully accurate observation of it. He again visited New Zealand twice in 1773, and twice in 1774, spending from a fortnight to three months there on each occasion. To Captain Cook, therefore, though S NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. he was not its first discoverer, must be attributed all the honor of having first explored New Zealand, brought it fully within the knowledge of the civilized world, and paved the way for the British occupa tion. Captain Cook's account of New Zealand, which is singularly minute, leaves no doubt that it was in precisely the same condition in the middle of the 1 8th century as it was in when colonization began within the memory of persons still living. When Captain Cook, in accordance with his regular prac tice, asked the natives the name of their country, he was told that the North Island was called Hemea hi no Maui, " a thing fished from the sea by Maui," a mythical hero or demigod ; and the Middle Island, Te wahi pounamu, or, " the place of greenstone." These ancient Maori names, more or less corrupted, still disfigure many maps of New Zealand. It may be well to state here that they never- were used since the settlement of the colony, and are now as obsolete as the ancient Cymric names of Great Britain. From the date of Cook's last visit in 1774, New Zealand remained unvisited by any European for nearly twenty years ; but in the mean time the colony of New South Wales, on the eastern side of the con tinent of New Holland, had been founded as a humane means of disposing of the criminal population of the Mother Country ; and Norfolk Island, which is geo logically, though not politically, part of New Zealand, had been occupied for a branch of the main penal es tablishment at Sydney. In 1793 Governor King, of New South Wales, sent a vessel to New Zealand, to CAPTAIN JAMES CvOOK. First Explorer of New Zealand. THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 9 kidnap natives, to teach the English at Norfolk Island how to dress flax, Phormium tenax, a gigantic lily, the leaves of which, growing to a length of ten feet or even more, contain a fibre of immense strength. After that, the intercourse between New South Wales and New Zealand slowly but steadily increased. These seas at that time abounded in whales, and whaling ships of various nations frequented the fish eries and carried on a precarious trade with the na tives ; while the value of the Kauri pine, Dammara Australis, in the far north, had already been discov ered, and brought many vessels to Whangaroa and the Bay of Islands for spars. In the year 1809 the ship " Boyd," calling for spars, was wrecked at Whan garoa, and her captain and crew were killed and eaten by the natives. In short, while the ferocity of the Ma oris, and the ignorance of the Europeans as to how to deal with them, effectually debarred anything like peaceful settlement, these very circumstances were bringing about a state of affairs which led to the colonization of the islands. The massacres and outrages, for which the Maoris were by no means alone to blame, made it absolutely necessary for some sort of authority to be set up. It is curious to note that during the earliest years of the century it was a common practice for Maoris to visit Austra lia, or even Great Britain, either serving as sailors or going as passengers ; a practice which is almost un known now; but, far from this tending to the civiliza tion of the islands, the travelled Maoris appear to have returned more ferocious and infinitely more vicious 10 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. than when they went away. They brought back fire arms and steel implements, and used them ruthlessly against their tribal enemies, for conquest or revenge. By the year 1814, what with whalers and traders, and runaway sailors and escaped convicts, all fighting with and corrupting the natives, New Zealand had become such a pandemonium that the authorities at Sydney determined to exercise some control over it. New Zealand was accordingly declared a dependency of New South Wales ; the Reverend Samuel Mars- den, Colonial Chaplain, was sent to the Bay of Is lands, on the east coast, north of Auckland, to establish a mission station ; and Mr. Thomas Ken dall, another missionary, was appointed Resident Magistrate, with three Maori chiefs, Ruatara, Hongi, and Koro Koro, as Justices of the Peace, to suppress outrages. The appointment of Mr. Kendall was the commencement of British authority in New Zealand, while that of the three Maori justices was the found ation of what is now the most numerous commission of the peace in the world, in proportion to popula tion. This attempt at a governmental organization, however, proved totally inadequate, and for the next ten years or more the relations between the Maoris and their European visitors consisted of chronic warfare, conducted with the utmost barbarity on both sides. In 1820 Mr. Kendall took three of the greatest Maori chiefs, including Hongi, one of his brother magistrates, to England, in the hope of improving this disgraceful state of affairs, and Hongi was pre sented to King George the Fourth, who loaded him THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. II with gifts. These gifts Hongi traded for 300 mus kets at Sydney, and, returning to New Zealand, he literally exterminated some of the northern tribes, and carried out a series of bloody conquests which gained for him the name of the Napoleon of New Zealand. The islands were now given over to inter- necine warfare, in which the more adventurous of the Europeans took an active part, or which they turned to their account for the sale of fire-arms or the acquisition of land. The scandalous state of the country had by this time attracted the notice of the Imperial Parliament, and one act after another was passed for increasing the authority of the govern ment of New South Wales over it, which was further supported by an occasional visit of a man-of-war, with a small body of troops. In 1825 a company was formed in London, under the auspices of Lord Durham, for systematic colonization in New Zea land ; but when the adventurers arrived, they were so terrified by the scenes they witnessed that they abandoned the project. In 1831 a number of chiefs, acting under missionary influence, petitioned King William the Fourth for British protection, and two years later a British Resident was appointed with large nominal powers. A second Resident was appointed in 1835. The efforts of these officials appear to have been directed towards the establish ment of a Native State under British authority ; but nothing but anarchy followed. The number of European settlers was now rapidly increasing, and in 1838, when the population of the principal settle ment at Kororareka, Bay of Islands, was about a 12 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. thousand, they held a meeting and established a provisional government. It was now seen that New Zealand could have no other destiny than to be a British colony, and re peated efforts to get the subject dealt with by Par liament having failed, a day came when that destiny was fulfilled in an unexpected manner. Edward Gibbon Wakefield, a man of genius, equally far-see ing in his plans, and intrepid in his execution of them, who had long cherished a keen ambition to found a young British nation in the South Seas, free from what he saw, with singular penetration, to be the evils of the convict system, determined to take the step from which there could be no recall. He se cretly formed the New Zealand Company, with Lord Durham at their head ; and they, without waiting for. any legal sanction; sent a ship to take possession of the country. On the 30th of September, 1839, Colonel William Wakefield, the company's principal agent, brother of Edward Gibbon Wakefield, took formal possession at Port Nicholson. A considerable fleet of ships immediately followed, and by the end of 1840 the New Zealand Company had disembarked 1200 settlers, and founded the city of Wellington, now the capital of the colony. The New Zealand Company having thus forced the hand of the Impe rial Government, hasty measures were adopted for counteracting what appeared to the Colonial Office to be a dangerous if not a treasonable enterprise. They still adhered, however, fo the idea of a Native State, under the jurisdiction of the British Governor of New South Wales, and the boundaries of that THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 13; colony having been extended, so as to include New Zealand, Captain Hobson, who had visited the coun try before in the command of H. M. S. Rattlesnake, was sent down with instructions to endeavor to ob tain the sovereignty of the islands, and then to act as Lieutenant-Governor. For a time there appeared- to be serious danger of a conflict between the two authorities, the Queen's government, established by Lieutenant-Governor Hobson at the Bay of Islands, and the less regular but much more substantial organization formed by the New Zealand Company under the presidency of Colonel Wakefield at Wel lington. This, however, arose entirely from misun derstanding, and by the end of 1840 all differences had been adjusted. In November of that year New Zealand was created a separate colony, under a government consisting of Captain Hobson as Gov ernor, a Legislative Council of six, and a complete judicial and official establishment. By the treaty of Waitangi, 6th of February 1840, the natives of the North Island had nominally ceded the sovereignty of the island to the Queen, and that of the Middle Island was assumed on the ground of discovery. A charter was then granted by the British Government to the New Zealand Company, who were more actively than ever engaged in the practical work of colonization, and under whose auspices immigration progressed apace. At one stroke Colonel Wakefield purchased the land of the Middle Island from the natives, under an agreement called the Ngaitahu Deed, signed by him and the chiefs on board a man-of-war in Aka- roa Harbor. The way was thus immediately opened. 14 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. for the peaceable settlement of that fertile and beau- ful territory which may now be justly described as the most English part of the British Empire out of England. Simultaneously the New Zealand Com pany had formed the charming settlement of Nel son ; and other companies or expeditions being formed on the same model, though on a smaller scale, the population of the colony by Europeans thus went on from many points at once.. But trouble was ahead. The difficulty of securing a title to land, which is always the greatest difficulty in the first settlement of new countries, was aggra vated in the case of New Zealand by two causes. The Maoris, who were the original owners of the whole soil, had no conception of individual posses sion of land, their tenure being purely tribal, that is to say, communal tenure, acquired by conquest or usage. Even when the chiefs had sold land, or pro fessed to have sold it, the position of the individual purchaser remained very precarious. When a Maori tribe entered into possession of land in the "good old days," they habitually exterminated the former owners and not unfrequently ate them. This obviated any further complications as to title. But when a European bought land from a chief or chiefs, he never knew how soon or how often his title might be disputed, either by the sellers, on the ground of insufficient price, undefined boundary, or what not, or by other natives on the ground that they, and not the sellers, were the real owners of the land. These early land transactions had some very A MAORI CHIEF OF THE OLD SCHOOL. From Life, THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 15 curious and amusing features. For example, it was a rule of law, — if we may apply such a term to deal ings which were under no law, — or at all events an ingrained idea with the Maoris, that in selling land, nothing was contracted away from the tribe except' what was actually expressed in the deed. Thus, if a deed was made merely purporting to sell to a European the land comprised by such and such boundaries, the purchaser soon found himself pre cisely in the position of Shylock when Portia in sisted on the strict interpretation of the pound of flesh. The land belonged to the purchaser, it is true ; but there was nothing in the deed to say that the tribe had parted with any of their rights in the trees, the grass, the streams, the fish, the birds, or anything else except the soil itself. Thus the Pa- keha, the European, found himself exposed to inces sant trespass, or claims of entry, which practically nullified his title. There are deeds still in existence which, to obviate this, are so drawn as to set forth in the minutest detail the absolute sale of all natural objects upon or below the land to be conveyed, even mentioning1 such intangible easements as the sun- shine, the air, the rain, and the mist, so as to leave no loophole for the ingenuity of Maori casuistry. If the Pakehas and the Maoris had been left to set tle these matters among themselves, nevertheless, they would doubtless have soon arrived at a satis factory or at least a practicable system. , But the Government made confusion twice confounded by declaring all titles invalid which did not issue from the Crown. The inevitable result of this was to 16 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. bring the settlers and the Maoris into conflict for the occupation of the land. In 1843 began that organized struggle which was nothing less than a war, lasting, with some longer or shorter intervals, until 1869, the smoldering animosities of which are still to be found in the fanatical demonstrations of the " prophet " Te Whiti at Parihaka, and the sul len, isolation of the older chiefs of Waikato. There is no good object to be gained by tracing the history of that conflict here ; for, except for the numberless instances of warlike prowess and individ ual heroism which it contains, it is not creditable to either race, and the sooner it is forgotten the better. Suffice it to say that, from the beginning, there never could be any doubt inthe mind of any onecompetent to form an opinion, as to what the issue of it would be. From the Wairau massacre in 1843, when Captain Arthur Wakefield, R. N., the New~Zealand Compa ny's agent for the settlement of Nelson, and twenty- one of the settlers were killed by the Maoris under \ the chiefs Te Rauparaha and Rangihaeta, until the "close of the war against Titokowaru and Te Kooti \in 1869, the Europeans have steadily and rapidly gainecTpossession of the land, while the Maoris not only lost possession of it, but themselves vanished like smoke before the wind. The colony is now en tirely at peace, and life and property and rights of all kinds are actually safer there than they are in the Mother Country. But it is an European country instead of a Maori country. Yet it cannot be said with an atom of truth that the conquering race made a solitude and called it peace. They found a hell THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. I? of barbarism and bloodshed, and through half a cen tury of chaos, and battle, and terror, and sorrow, and anxiety, they have made a paradise of humanity and happiness. In fifty years, 600,000 Europeans and 40,000 civilized natives have taken the place of 100,000 ferocious cannibals. That is, in brief, the history Of the war in New Zealand, and the events preceding it or attendant upon it. The manner of it may be objected to ; but the fact cannot possibly be deplored from the point of view of the welfare of mankind ; whilst it is difficult to understand from what impulse of sentiment, not altogether fantastic, it can be desired that the page of history in New Zealand should be turned back. A vigorous, free, young civilized nation has been founded on the grave of a sanguinary, degraded, and effete barbar ism. Omelettes are not made without breaking eggs, and it is vain to grieve over the shells. Out of evil cometh good, moreover, and who can tell how much the discipline of the long wars contributed to strengthen the morale and mold the character of the young nation, or even to advance their material progress ? Certainly, during the period of the wars, that progress was continuous and rapid ; and it can not be doubted that the presence in the colony for years of a British army of 10,000 men of all arms, and the enrolment of an equal number of colonial troops, exercised a great and a beneficial influence on the population. It was not like fighting on the Continent, or in Ashanti, or Zululand, where, when it was over, the army retired from the country, leaving only graves and ashes to mark where they had been. In 18 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. New Zealand, all the ground that was gained was held, and great numbers of the military themselves became settlers, which they were encouraged to do by the laws of the country. It was more like a Roman conquest, where the plow followed the sword, where the legionaries were allowed or required to colonize where they had conquered ; and where they made their mark for alL time, both on the face of nature, and on the character of the people. The wars seemed a terrible misfortune and desola tion at the time ; but they forced the colony into prominence at home ; they brought an energetic, self- reliant, and high-spirited population to the colony ; and they tended enormously to hasten the occupation of the land. New Zealand is the only colony of Australasia which has passed through the fire of a severe and prolonged military conflict as the condi tion of its existence ; and in that fact will be found one of the. main causes which distinguish it so sharply from the other colonies. Long before the wars were over, the colony had settled down upon a secure foundation of material prosperity and rapidly growing wealth. It had obtained self-government and carried its princi ples to a greater length, and with more complete success, than ever was done elsewhere in so short a time. Finally, it had conclusively proved its entire capacity of self-defense and self-reliance in all respects. The population had increased from 120,000 in 1854, the year when self-govern ment was established in the colony, to 237,000 in 1869, when the war came to an end ; and during THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 19 the same period, the revenue had risen from ^292,- 000 to ,£1,454,000. It may well be asked with aston ishment by the readers of this book who have no acquaintance with the methods of colonization, how it was possible for such progress to be made in fifteen years, notwithstanding the burden and discourage^ ment of a costly and bloody war, added to all the diffi culties and hardships inseparable from early settle ment. It may reasonably be asked, What was the attraction which drew to the colony so many people and so much capital ? The reply is in one word, — land. Until 1856 the acquisition of land by Euro peans was insignificant, owing to the insecurity of title; and land transactions principally consisted of disputes with the government or of more or less questionable dealings on the chance of some day getting either a good title or compensation in money. By 1856, however, the official organization of the Colonial Government was complete, and free trade in land, with an indefeasible title direct from the Governor, — a Crown Grant, the most precious pos session of every settler — was the recognized prin ciple of colonization. In that year 51,000 acres were sold for ,£33,000; and 14 acres were granted free of cost ; the latter system being adopted in some parts of the colony for the encouragement of immigration and of military and naval settlement, or for the satisfaction of old claims or. the adjustment of disputes. Between 1856 and 1869 the disposal of land under these two systems went on at such a pace that by the latter year 5,000,000 acres had been sold for ,£4,000,000, and 700,000 acres had been 20 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. granted free of cost. That is to say, in thirteen years an area nearly as large as Belgium had passed into private hands, and four millions sterling had been re ceived into the Treasury for expenditure on roads or other public works for the further settlement of the country. What was done with the land thus redeemed from the wilderness, may easily be gathered from the fact that during the same period of thirteen years, from 1856 to 1869, the export of wool had increased from .£146,000 to ,£1,370,000; of flax, from ,£552 to ,£45,000 ; of Kauri gum, from ,£18,000 to £1 1 1,000 ; and so on ; the total value of produce exported having risen from ,£318,000 to ,£1,728,000 a year, in addition to gold worth ,£2,362,000, or ,£4,090,000 in all. By this time 800,000 acres of land had actually been brought into cultivation, while the flocks and herds depastured on the uncultivated land, numbered 9,000,000 of sheep and 400,000 cattle. In a word, the colony had progressed from the stage of a "plantation," a scattered group of struggling bush settlements, to that of. a thriving agricultural and pastoral country, producing more, in proportion to the area dealt with, and the number of people em ployed upon it, than any other such country on earth. Those who really wish to know the truth about New Zealand should impress it on their mind that, from the beginning, it has been above all things a farming colony ; that all its main progress hitherto has consisted of agricultural and pastoral progress ; and that, romantic as its history has been, and wild and beautiful as its scenery is, its most remarkable THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 21 and most important characteristic is its unequalled suitability for husbandry and pasturage, the most ancient, the most beneficent, and the happiest occu pations of civilized man. The rural scenery of New Zealand is not less worthy of the attention of the capitalist or the working settler than its natural wonders are of the attention of the traveler or pleas ure-seeker. The story of the colony may now be brought speedily to a close. It may be convenient here to mention that gold was discovered in various parts of New Zealand at a very early date, and that gold- mining has had a considerable share in its advance ment. From 1857 to i860 the export of gold fluc tuated from ,£40,000 to ,£17,000, and seemed to be dwindling away, when, in the latter year, deposits of extraordinary richness were found in the southern part of the Middle Island, and at once attracted a large population from Australia. The value of the gold export rose in a single year to ,£752,000, and in 1863 it amounted to no less than ,£2,431,000. Other discoveries followed in both islands, and by 1869 the total value of gold exported reached the enormous sum of ,£19,500,000. Ever since then, this industry has gradually declined, and of late years it has been of comparatively little importance. It will probably never again exert any very marked influence on the fortunes of the colony ; but in any retrospect of the colony's growth it would be wrong to overlook or underrate the influence which the gold discoveries did exert during a critical period of more than ten years. They not only brought popu- 2 2 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. lation and produced vast wealth, but they stimulated commercial enterprise of every kind, and accelerated the civic and social* development of the community to a surprising extent. Vestigia nulla retrorsum is strikingly applicable to colonies. They never with draw or retrace their steps ; and, though the actual profitableness of gold discoveries may be questioned, and their industrial importance is transitory, there is no denying that in habitable countries like New Zealand, the gold-miner marches in the van of civili zation, and the high-water mark of the gold export indicates also a flood tide of general activity and progress, from which there is no ebb. The year 1869 has been taken for an epoch in the history of New Zealand for more than one reason. It saw the close of the native wars, and it was the eve of the Public Works Policy. Until then, public works had been locally administered by the Provin cial Governments, and though in some instances they were executed with singular energy, efficiency, and foresight, they were carried out on a modest scale and at a moderate rate of progress. There were only four short lines of railway in the colony, not ex ceeding 150 miles in all. Generally speaking, all the public works in the colony had, up to 1869, been constructed out of receipts from land sales, or other local revenue, supplemented in some cases by loans raised for specific purposes, locally secured, and grudgingly authorized by the colonial legislature. In 1870 all this was suddenly changed. It was de termined to borrow ten millions on the security of the colony and to spend the whole of it in ten years on THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 23 public works and immigration, especially on railways. The results were very remarkable. The whole col ony entered upon a career of activity and commer cial excitement such as had never been dreamt of before. The expenditure of the borrowed money rapidly exceeded the original estimate of a million a year. In 1875 it reached the enormous sum of ,£3,107,867. Private speculation was correspond ingly stimulated, and as the construction of railways advanced, the receipts from land sales mounted up proportionately to the public works expenditure. In the two years 1877 and 1878, the cash actually re ceived at the various land offices exceeded ,£2,500,000. This, in its turn, was spent on local public works, so that the colonial and local public works expendi ture together was for some years not less than four millions a year. The ten million scheme of 1870 was soon extended. One Loan Act followed another. By the end of 1887, more than twenty-four millions of bor rowed money had been spent, in addition to eight mil lions of land funds— thirty-two millions in sixteen years. The colony then had 1800 miles of railway, besides a vast extent of public works of other kinds : roads, bridges, water-races, public buildings, and so on. The receipts from the railways amounted to a mil lion sterling annually. The population had risen during these sixteen years from 248,000 to 600,000, of whom about 100,000 were free or assisted immigrants brought out under the Public Works and Immigra tion Policy. The face of the country and all the conditions of settlement were changed. The asper ities of the early days were entirely done away with, 24 NE.W ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and life in the colony was made as easy as life in any old country, if not easier. By this time, however, it was plainly seen by all who chose to look the facts in the face, especially those possessing a large stake in the colony, that the beneficial effects of a lavish expenditure of borrowed money were more apparent than real ; or, rather, that while the burden of the public and private debt was immediate and considerable, the remunerative results of the expenditure were less so. In other words, it was found impossible, by any amount of expenditure, to force the colony to progress at a rate proportionate to the expenditure. It is a most striking fact that though New Zealand has spent more than thirty millions on public works in six teen years, yet, taking one year with another, neither its export nor its revenue has increased during that period at any greater rate than it increased at be fore. Even the increase of its population has been no greater during these sixteen years than it was during the preceding sixteen years. Yet there can be no comparison at all between these two periods as regards the conveniences of life or the facilities for industry and commerce. The truth is that the profit of this enormous expenditure is the heritage of the future population of the country, who will find everything done for them which the early set tlers had to do for themselves, and whose burdens will be a bagatelle compared with those which the colonists have hitherto had to bear. Discerning this, the New Zealand Parliament in 1887 deter mined to bring the public works expenditure to a MAJOR-GEN. SIR W. F. DRUMMOND JERVOIS, G.C.M.G., C.B., R.E. Governor of New Zealand, 1883-89. ORGANIZER OP THE DEFENSES OF AUSTRALASIA. THE STORY OF NEW ZEALAND. 25 close, and after that to dispense with further bor rowing, with a view to depending entirely upon revenue for the future, This wise decision has been cordially approved of by the people, except the most thoughtless and irresponsible classes, who, happily, have no control over public affairs in that colony. Already the good effects of this are apparent in the restoration of the public credit, the revival of com mercial confidence, and an increased spirit 'of enter prise and self-reliance among the colonists. This year, 1889, marks a new departure in the history of New Zealand. She has passed through a trial of financial depression, not less severe than the trial of war she passed through before ; but now, as then, she has merely recule pour mieux sauter, stood back to jump the further. No reasonable man, who is experienced in her past and acquainted with her pres ent, can for a moment doubt that she is on the threshold of a future pregnant with prosperity and happiness. She stands, under sunshine or clouds, an unrivaled monument of the success of the god like art of colonization, skillfully, courageously, and honestly carried out, though not without such errors as are inseparable from any works of man. It is the prediction of one of her wisest Governors, who has served his country in all the quarters of the globe, that her natural advantages, combined with the circumstances of her settlement, cannot fail to make her in time, without exception, the finest de pendency of the British Empire. II. THE COLONY AS IT IS. New Zealand differs from all the Australian colo nies, and from most other countries, in one impor tant respect which is very puzzling to passing visitors and often very misleading to those who have an idea of settling here. It has no capital city of com manding prominence, nor any metropolitan element whatsoever. In old lands, the city was the fortified place, the center of force and wealth, and from it the conquering people spread sparsely into the country, only founding other towns when they were so far from the center that they needed new strongholds, from which in their turn they spread again and found ed smaller towns upon some necessity of defense. In these young countries, where there was nothing to fear — for even in New Zealand the natives never seriously threatened the main settlements — the city was merely the landing-place, where ships could lie sheltered, boats could be run on the beach, fresh water could be obtained, and access could be had to the interior. Now, on the continent of Australia, spots answering to these conditions are singularly few, but where they exist in any specially favorable degree there is found a city, the capital of a colony. The landing-place of the pioneers was the only land ing-place, practically, of an immense territory ; and 26 THE COLONY AS IT IS. 27 the collection of huts that were built there by the pioneers have become the metropolis of that terri tory. The magnificent cities of Sydney and Mel bourne, which stand in the eighth rank of the cities of the Empire, and will soon stand in the seventh, together with the cities of Adelaide, Brisbane, Hobart, and Perth, are unmistakably the capitals of New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Queensland, Tasmania, and Western Australia, re spectively ; and they overshadow all other towns and dominate all other localities within the boundaries of the colony. It was a maxim in the days of the Roman Empire that " all roads led to Rome," and the very name of Stamboul, by which alone Con stantinople is known in the East, is a corruption of three words which the inhabitants of the Greek Em pire habitually used when they said they were going " to town." Not less metropolitan are the chief cities of the Australian colonies. What every visitor feels is that Melbourne or Sydney is everything, and the rest of the country is by comparison nothing ; and the same may be said of the others with somewhat less emphasis. This could not be more strikingly expressed than by the bare fact that the population of Melbourne and suburbs is one-half the population of Victoria, the population of Sydney and suburbs more than one-third of the population of New South Wales, and the population of Adelaide more than one-fourth of the population of South Australia. Now, there is nothing at all like this in New Zea land ; the largest city in the colony does not contain more than a tenth of the whole population ; and a 28 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. glance at the map shows why. The natural features of the country are such that it is necessarily divided into -separate settlements which, but that they are all under one government, might be taken for sep arate colonies ; and each of these has its capital town at the landing-place of the pioneers of that particular settlement. Nature divided the islands into at least nine more or less distinct parts, and at the same time provided each part with a suitable place for a center of colonization and trade. The natives from time immemorial observed this arrange- ment as closely as was compatible with their habits of life ; and the Europeans show no inclination to abandon it, long after they have obtained greatly improved means of communication among the vari ous parts of the colony. Thus we find four small cities, situated on or near the four principal harbors : Auckland, with 60,000 inhabitants ; Wellington, with 30,000 ; Christchurch, with 30,000 ; and Dunedin, with 40,000 ; and in addition to these, smaller cities or towns at points on the coast where the facilities for landing or settlement were less, Napier, New Plym outh, Nelson, and Invercargill, each with from 2000 to 10,000 inhabitants, and a host of still smaller towns and villages, with a population varying from 2000 down to 100, scattered pretty evenly along the main lines of communication near the sea, and diminishing in number and importance toward the mountainous interior. The result of this singular dispersion of settlement is that, while there are no splendid cities, it is impossible to go any consider able distance in the habitable parts of New Zealand THE COLONY AS IT IS. 29 -without coming upon population, living in moderate comfort and supplied with all of the necessaries, most of the conveniences, and some of the refine ments of civilized society. The towns differ very little from English towns, except in being newer and more spacious for the population. The mode of life of the people is practically the same, except that the extremes of wealth and poverty are less marked or, indeed, but little known, and class distinctions are comparatively little observed. In the country, the decencies of life are universal, and even where the people are poor, and from the nature of their occu pation have to live roughly, they will almost invari ably be found respectable, courteous, and hospitable up to the limit of their means. There is no violence anywhere in New Zealand, and very little brutality or coarseness. Domestic institutions are everywhere firmly established and highly valued, and there is no part of the colony where a woman or a child may not safely venture, with the certainty of being well treated. More than half of the European popula tion, 300,000, are born in the colony. Of the remainder, 125,000 are English, 54,000 Scottish, 51,000 Irish, 17,000 Australian, 6000 Welsh, Cana dian, or otherwise British, and 13,000 foreign, mostly Germans and Scandinavians. The Chinese popula tion number 4500 and are diminishing. Five-sixths of the people are Protestants, and the remaining sixth are Roman Catholics, with a few Jews, and 4500 Chinese Buddhists. By far the greater pro portion of the working population are engaged in agriculture, or some out-of-door pursuits, but the 30 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. proportion engaged in manufactures, especially those connected with agriculture and pastoral products, already reaches a considerable number, and is rapidly increasing. The miners number 2g,ooo, about 4 per cent, of the whole population. It speaks well for the general condition of the people that very few women do any labor. Out of 266,000 European females in the colony, no fewer than 250,000 are engaged in domestic duties, the re maining 16,000 being mostly teachers, dressmakers, shopkeepers, or shop-assistants. It is exceedingly uncommon for women to work in the fields, and fe male miners are unknown. The great mass of the people are educated, only 9000 above the age of ten years being unable to read and write. Almost all the adults among these are from abroad. Practi cally speaking, no children grow up in ignorance in the colony ; but the whole population are provided with at least the rudiments of a liberal education at the public cost. The result of this is strikingly shown in the diminution of crime. There are ac tually fewer convictions now than there were twenty years ago, with less than a third of the present popula tion, and of the criminals not one in ten is a born col onist, though more than half the population are born colonists. There is every prospect of the colony becoming almost entirely free from crime in the course of another generation, provided no exten sive immigration of an inferior class of people from old countries takes place. Religion is everywhere respected in New Zealand, without any distinction of creeds, and though outward observances are less THE COLONY AS IT IS. 31 strictly adhered to than in old countries, no in telligent observer can travel in the colony without being struck by the universal prevalence of the in fluence of religion upon the morals, the manners, and even the politics of the people. There is no State church, or anything at all analogous to it ; but there is not a village without its church or churches, and the clergy of all denominations are men of great influence. They are the leaders of the people in all good works, and they constitute an active and highly beneficial social element. There is probably no country in the world less priest-ridden than New Zealand. Yet there is certainly none where religion is more honored in practice, or where the ministers of religion are more beloved or more powerful within their proper sphere. To speak ill, or even slightingly, of religion, is deemed out of place, even among the rougher class of colonists, and to do so offensively in public would be deemed an outrage. Yet there is perfect liberty of belief, and of expression of opinion ; so much so that the Free-thought and other ostensibly anti-religious as sociations, meeting with no antagonism, have for the most part dwindled away, and been assimilated by the various religious denominations. The only peo ple who are persecuted at all in New Zealand are the Chinese, and these not on account of their re ligion, which is a lofty system of philosophy, with a quite inoffensive cult, but on account of the popular belief that their immense industry and habits of par simony are apt to render them irresistible competi tors for the wages of labor if they should come here 32 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. in large numbers. It is safe to say, however, that the Chinese are better treated in New Zealand than in any other colony in Australasia. The dwellings of the colonists are comfortable and commodious on a moderate scale, according to the circumstances of the householders. In the cities, brick and stone are used for public and commercial buildings, but wood still largely prevails for private houses, and is likely to do so for many years to come. There are several reasons for this. The first is that, in a truly temperate climate like that of New Zea land, wood is the most suitable building material, be cause there is no great heat or cold to be guarded against. It is also the cheapest, both as to construc tion and as to repairs, in a countfy where labor is very costly. The commonest form of dwelling is a bungalow-shaped house on one floor, or a gabled house of two floors, containing from four to eight or ten rooms, strongly built of timber, with lath and plaster, or match lining inside, and roofed with cor rugated iron. Slate roofs are very uncommon and tile roofs unknown. Well-built houses of this de scription, with sash windows, register grates, cooking range, and all ordinary appliances, ready for occupa tion, cost from ,£30 to ^50 a room, say .£350 for a fair-sized eight-roomed house. It is a very common practice for the colonists of all ranks to buy a plot of land, from one-sixteenth of an acre to any num ber of acres, and to build their own house, great facilities being afforded for this by Building Societies, who advance the whole or part of the money required for building the house on the security of the land, ENGLISH TREES ON THE RIVER MAITAL— NELSON. THE COLONY AS IT IS. 33 and are repaid by monthly instalments covering in terest and principal. The interest charged upon these loans is from 8 to 1 1 per cent., which seems high ; but the conveniences of the system are such that it enables vast numbers of settlers to become their own landlord who would otherwise pay rent all their life. The possession of a home is an immense inducement to industry and thrift, and the habit of saving acquired while paying off the Building Soci ety's loan is in numberless instances the foundation of a comfortable independence. The system of land transfer in New Zealand is exceedingly simple and inexpensive, so that any one wishing to buy land can buy as little or as much as he wants, with a perfectly secure title guaranteed by the Government, at an outlay of a few shillings for deeds and registration. About one-eleventh of the whole population are freeholders ; and in some of the best-settled districts, the proportion is still greater. There is nothing, in fact, to prevent any man from owning his own home, and a good home too, if he choose to exercise reasonable care and self-denial for a few years. Nearly every house has some little land about it, and this, however small, is generally made into a garden. The cultivation of trees, flow ers, and vegetables is the favorite resource of the leisure of all classes, and in most of the towns and villages the gardens about the dwellings are a source of pride to the owners and of pleasure to the passers-by. Inside, the houses are usually substan tially though plainly furnished, with more regard to use and comfort than to elegance or display ; and 34 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. except among the poorest class of people, the house hold effects represent a considerable value, in pro portion to the station in life of the householder : from ,£50 or ,£75 in a very small house, up to ,£400 or ,£500 in the larger houses, and much more in the houses of the wealthy. A remarkable and sug gestive feature in the furnishing of houses in this country is the great number of pianos or harmo niums. There is probably no country in the world, where a musical instrument worth from ,£10 to ,£40 is so common an accessory of the home, even among the poorer class. The tables are generally of New Zealand timber and manufacture, kauri or red pine, plain or polished, with turned legs, but the chairs are American oak, or Austrian bentwood, or English walnut made up in the colony. The commonest practice, where there is more than one sitting-room, is to buy a suit of furniture for each room, chairs, arm-chairs, and sofa alike, in leather, horse-hair, chintz, or rep, the suit costing when new from ^12 or ,£1 5 to ,£30 or more, according to quality and material. The sitting-rooms are generally carpeted or supplied with drugget, oil-cloth, or cocoa-matting, and the bedrooms are furnished with iron bedsteads, or per haps wooden stretchers for children, and ample bedding, with wooden washstand and strong, plain toilet-ware. The kitchens invariably contain an oven and generally a cooking range, and have a liberal supply of cooking utensils of all kinds. The women of all ranks in New Zealand are accustomed to perform domestic duties as a matter of course. The wives and daughters of well-to-do settlers do not THE COLONY AS IT IS. 35 think housework beneath them, but are respected and admired for their proficiency in it ; while thou sands of homes, where there is no servant of any sort, are, nevertheless, models of cleanliness, order, and taste. The people of New Zealand have abundance of food. Meat and bread are very cheap and very good. The best white wheaten bread is the univer sal fare. It is sold at from ^d. to $d. the 4-lb. loaf, and the bakers are bound under heavy penalties to give good weight and good quality. Beef, mutton, and pork, as good as can be got in the world, are sold at from id. to ^d. or 6d. per lb.; but by taking part of a carcass, meat, especially mutton, can be had much more cheaply. Such a thing is unheard of as for a butcher to sell bad meat, and parts of the animals, which in old countries are dressed and sold for food, are here treated as offal. Hams and bacon are largely eaten. In all country places, the supply of food, even in the poorest households, is unlimited ; and even in the cities, and among the poor, there must be some exceptional reason if there is any stint of food. Milk and butter are plentiful and good, and eggs are cheap enough during a great part of the year. Potatoes are extremely cheap and of the best ; but green vegetables would be scarce in the towns, but for the Chinese, who grow them with wonderful skill and sell them from house to house at a very moderate price. Fish is not largely eaten, owing to the abundance of meat ; but it is always to be obtained anywhere near the sea. Fruit is largely imported from Australia and the Pacific Islands, 36 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and is rather dear and not very good. Yet great quantities of pineapples, bananas, oranges, apples, pears, peaches, cherries, plums, and other fruits are consumed ; while small fruits, strawberries, raspber ries, gooseberries, and currants, grow splendidly in the colony and are in universal use in their season. Game is plentiful enough in season, that is, from April to July ; but is not very much eaten, except in hotels and the wealthier class of houses, owing to the trouble of preparing it. Rabbits cost 6d. each in the shops, and may be got for next to nothing in the country, all the year round, with a little trouble. Hares, wild swan, wild duck, pigeons, Californian quail, and pheasants are supplied in abundance ; as well as kakas, parrots, pukeko, a large coot, a most delicious bird, and other native game. Poultry, turkeys, geese, ducks, and fowls are always to be got, but, except in the country, do not form a very com mon article of diet. The daily food of an average family in New Zealand consists of a good meat breakfast, with unlimited bread and butter or jam, and tea or coffee, generally tea ; dinner of a joint of beef or mutton either boiled or baked in the oven, seldom roasted, with unlimited bread and potatoes and some other vegetables, pudding of some kind, fruit, rice or pastry ; and bread and cheese. Meat tea at six o'clock is a very common evening meal. Tinned, bottled, or preserved foods are still very largely used, though not so largely as in the early days, when it was difficult to get anything else ; the rea son again being the saving of trouble in preparation. This is especially the case among the laboring class. THE COLONY AS IT IS. 37 It may be said, however, that it is the rule for all people in this country to eat fresh meat at least once a day, with bread and butter and tea ad libitum. There is no national beverage in New Zealand, unless tea may be called so ; and in a very large number of houses up to the middling class, no liquor but water or tea is kept or served at table. The truth is, all liquors are very dear, and the con sumption of them is rapidly and steadily diminish ing. The commonest beverage is colonial beer, a good, wholesome light ale, brewed in every town of any size, and usually sold for household consump tion in casks of from five to eighteen gallons, at 2s. 6d. a gallon, or in bottles at 8^. 6d. per dozen, a price which would be deemed prohibitive in Eng land, but which is by no means so here. English bottled beer is also a favorite drink. Spirits are very seldom seen at table now, though quite com monly kept in the house, and drunk with water in the evening. Scotch whisky is the prevailing drink. Wine Is not common, except among the rich, or on special occasions ; though of late years the Australian wines have come a good deal into use among people of moderate means. Speaking generally, it may be said that the colonists drink little but water or tea in their homes ; and that if there is a national beverage it is the light ale of the country, which is far and away the best that is made in the Southern Hemisphere. There is still a great deal of drinking in the colony, though nothing like what there used to be ; but it is done in the public houses, where every description of liquor, of fairly 38 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. good quality, is to be had for sixpence, a glass of spirits or wines, a tumbler of English beer, or a pint of colonial. Liquor of all sorts is the dearest, if not the worst, article of consumption in the colony, and for that reason, amongst others, the people are giving it up both in their homes and out of them. It is scarcely necessary to say that the wealthiest classes in New Zealand live almost exactly as they do elsewhere, as to their dwellings, their furniture, their food and drink, and all their other domestic surroundings. The descriptions given above are in tended only to depict the conditions of life of the average colonists. It is very unusual in the colony for more than one family to live in one house. There is no doubt they might live much better on the same outlay, if they were1 content to share a dwelling with a common kitchen and other conveniences, as is the custom in many countries. The domestic sentiment, however, is decidedly against it, and the universal rule, prac tically, is for each family to have a house to them selves. Great numbers of people, however, espec ially single men, live in hotels, boarding-houses, or lodgings, and have no other home. The hotels in New .^Zealand are, as a rule, remarkably good, and not at all dear. In the larger cities many of them are on a scale of considerable magnificence, with every sort of comfort and luxury. The ordinary charge at these is 10s. a day, which covers every thing except washing and, of course, wine ; or £2 \os. a week by arrangement. There is a table d'hdte sup plied with abundance of the best of everythino-. Pri- THE COLONY AS IT IS. 39 vate rooms and attendance are charged for in addi tion, but not at all unreasonably. Life at these first- class hotels is very pleasant ; every sort of attention and civility is shown to visitors, and the whole tone of the establishment is as good as could be found anywhere. In the less pretentious class of hotels, too, whether in town or country, the accommoda tion is usually good and cheap ; and the traveller is often agreeably surprised to find himself in the snug gest of quarters in parts of the colony where he would least expect it. The boarding-houses and lodgings are of every variety, and suited to all purses. The ordinary lodging-house is a private dwelling-house, where the family, or perhaps a married couple, or a widow, take one or more lodgers, and keep them -very comfortably for from ,£1 to £2 a week. But there are plenty of highly respectable and well pro- -vided boarding-houses, where the charge is as low as T&s. or 14.S. a week. Sixpenny meals for working-men are a thoroughly established institution. It is not unusual, even in cheap boarding-houses, for each lodger to have a separate bedroom ; the practice of two or more sleeping in one room, which is so com mon in England and Australia, being far less so in New Zealand. The people of New Zealand are, on the whole, very well clothed. It is a common saying that one may go from one end of the colony to the other and not see a man with a patch on his coat ; and it is literally true that no ragged people of either sex are to be seen anywhere. Another noticeable thing is that the people do not dress 10 suit the climate or 4° NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. the colonial surroundings, but have retained the English style almost unaltered, and even follow the English fashions pretty closely. No one from home would notice from the dress of the people that they were not English. The colonists have never fallen into the habit of dressing like Robinson Crusoe, or Paul and Virginia, and the typical colonist, as he is generally represented in England, with a straw hat a yard wide, a flannel shirt, open at the breast, and breeches and boots, is quite an unknown character here. Gentlepeople, whether in town or country, dress almost exactly as they do in England, except that the beltopper hat is comparatively seldom seen, black, brown, or gray felt hats being the usual wear ; but most men have a beltopper which they wear on rare occasions. The same may be said, with little modification, of all other classes of the people, ex cept that they have more clothes and better ones than the corresponding class at home. Corduroy is not at all common, even among the roughest labor ers, but strong moleskin is largely used. For their work, the laboring classes consume great quantities of slop clothing from England, which is sold very cheaply all over the country ; but when not at work they wear good broadcloth or tweed. The cloths made in the colony are coming rapidly into use, and, except among the luxurious classes, will soon super sede the imported kinds. They are not so highly finished as European fabrics, but are made of pure wool throughout, and are immensely serviceable, and very cheap for the quality. Flannel goods and hosiery made in the colony are also the very best, THE COLONY AS IT IS. 41 and are largely used by all classes. All other des criptions of clothing, and women's apparel of every sort, imported from England, can be got at the shops in every town, even in the country, at prices very little in advance of what they cost at home. Boots and shoes of the lower qualities are made here, and are good and cheap ; but all the superior kinds are imported ready made, and are sold at from £i to ,£1 15s. for men's, and 15^. to ,£1 for women's boots of best quality. There is not the smallest necessity for anybody coming to New Zealand to bring any stock of clothing with them. The idea of an " out fit" for New Zealand belongs to a by-gone period of the colony's history, or to the " enquiry" column of the lady's newspapers. Owing to the mildness of the climate, less clothing is needed here than at home; but the people do not stint themselves. In the matter of dress, as of everything else, they live well ; and at any large gathering of them, where, perhaps, there are 5000 or 10,000 people, nothing strikes the visitor more than the total absence of shabbiness, and the universal equality of comfort in their attire. They all seem to have new clothes on, aud to be so accustomed to new clothes that they think nothing about it, any more than they do of having plenty of food to eat and a warm bed to sleep in. There are no beggars in New Zealand. Begging is strictly forbidden by law, and if any idle people venture stealthily to resort to it, the usual and proper treatment of them is to give them in charge immedi ately. They generally get a month's imprisonment 42 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. for the first offense, the punishment for habitual mendicancy extending to twelve months. On the other hand, casual poverty is amply provided for by public benevolence ; and, indeed, there are loud and just complaints that the relief of the destitute upon such a liberal scale, at the cost of the taxpayers, whilst it diminishes private charity by depriving it of its responsibility, encourages dependence and decep tion among the least self-respecting sections of the community. It is not too much to say that there need be no able-bodied destitution in New Zealand unless through idleness or vice ; whilst unavoidable cases of distress, if left entirely to private charity, would be abundantly cared for without any publicity at all. The destitute sick, or the victims of accident or sudden illness, are accommodated in the public hospitals, which are numerous, splendid, and excel lently managed upon an extravagant scale of expen diture. Patients are expected to pay a small sum weekly if they have the means ; but the expectation is seldom realized, and practically the payment is. never enforced. Many of the inmates of the hos pitals are more pensioners than patients, and the whole system is in keeping with the indulgent and open-handed habits of the colon)'. The insane are disposed of under skilled medical attendance in asy lums which are among the most creditable of the public institutions. They are treated with the ut most humanity and solicitude, and are kept under no restraint beyond what is necessary for their own well-being. The lunatic asylums, like the hospitals, are constructed and conducted on a lavish scale, as THE COLONY AS IT IS. 43 if expense were not to be considered. The farm system of treatment, by which curable or convales cent patients are domiciled in a pleasant country homestead, and engaged in light open-air labor amid purely rural surroundings, has been introduced with very satisfactory results. Destitute orphans and neglected and criminal children are brought up at the public expense in orphanages, or reformatory schools, or in religious institutions subsidized for that purpose. Those of them who do not need a sterner authority are placed out in settlers' families, under frequent inspection by trustworthy persons of position in the neighborhood ; and they not only lead a happy life, but usually turn out very well, and are often adopted by their guardians. It will be gathered from the foregoing description of the general condition of the people of New Zea land, that they are a well-to-do people, and they may truthfully be said to be so, even in the worst times of commercial depression. The very wealthy class are exceedingly limited. There is probably not a single New Zealand colonist with a clear income of ,£50,000 a year, not more than half a dozen with ^"30,000 a year, and not fifty with ,£10,000 a year ; whereas, in the continental colonies, incomes of ,£200,000 or ,£300,000 a year are not unknown, while those between ^50,000 and ,£100,000 are numerous, and those between ,£10,000 and ,£50,000 are com paratively common. But, on the other hand, there is in New Zealand practically none of the extreme poverty wKich jars upon the visitor by its juxtaposi tion with wealth and extravagance in the great Aus- 44 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. tralian cities, and very little of the hardship and privation or the contented penury of the poorer class of Australian country settlers. The people of New Zealand are very comfortable in a quiet way, in all classes of life. They do not work very hard, but their work is well paid. They spend their money freely, and, as regards most of the things they want, they get a good deal for it. The wealthy class, or what pass for the wealthy class in this colony, have an income to spend of from ,£1000 to ,£5000 a year, and these are numerous in proportion to the population. Then there are a very large class of people in what may be called an easy position, who have from ,£500 to ,£1000 a year to live upon. The clerical and smaller business people maybe put down at from ,£200 to ,£500. Finally, the working classes may be said in general terms to have from ,£100 to ^£200 a year to live upon. There are many skilled hands in all trades, miners, and others working for wages, or partly for wages and parti}' for them selves, who earn considerably over ,£200 a year. On the other hand, there are many young, weakly, unskilful, or unfortunate men, dependent on their labor, who do not earn so much as ;£ioo a year. But, taking them all round, the working classes in New Zealand cannot be said to earn on an average less than £2 a week, whilst a very large proportion get £2 10s., £3, £3 10s. or £4.. A remarkable feature of the colony is the early age at which boys or youths begin to earn their living, and a good liv ing too. Even the wealthier class of settlers begin to look out for something for their sons to do at THE COLONY AS IT IS. 45 about the age of sixteen, whilst in families of less means it is the rule for the boys to be in some sort of paid emplhyment before they are seventeen, and to be self-supporting before they are twenty. Among the poorer classes the boys go to work at fourteen or even earlier ; many doing something for themselves even while they are attending school. Girls also have no great difficulty in earning from 5.?. to \os. a week, either in service or at trades, after the age of sixteen or seventeen. At the same time, child labor, such as exists in old countries, is scarcely known at all. The children of all classes of colonists, as a rule, have nothing to do but play and learn their lessons, or mind the baby, until they are twelve or thirteen. Then, however, as soon, that is to say, as they begin to be a serious expense to their parents, or to feel the need of money, they begin also to re alize that money is to be earned, and to earn it. Thus it is that the people of New Zealand are a people who have money in their pocket, and who can afford to live pretty comfortably, to enjoy them selves in a moderate way, and to possess a degree of ease and independence which would seem won derful in an old country. To put it shortly, the actual production of wealth is greater in New Zealand, in proportion to the pop ulation, than that of any other country in the world ; and as this wealth is probably more evenly shared amongst all classes of the inhabitants than in any other country, the result is a high general standard of living and well-being. Employers complain of the high rate of wages ; the working-men complain 46 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. that boys earn men's wages ; and housewives com plain that girls earn so much that it is difficult to get or to keep servants. But all of this means simply that the country is an abundant country, where work is well paid, and there is plenty for all who choose to earn their share. A signal proof of this is the extraordinary number of idle people who do no work, or next to none, but who yet do very well. It is scarcely credible, but is nevertheless a fact, that at times there are no fewer than 3000 or 4000 " unemployed," as they are called, sup ported by the government on relief work. Among these, no doubt, are a small proportion of helpless persons, who from sickness, inexperience, or other misfortune, have got their head under water, and cannot get it up again. But the mass of them are the most shiftless, thriftless, and worthless section of the community. The general well-being of the people cannot be better illustrated, perhaps, than by mentioning that these dregs of the laboring popu lation receive 4.S. a day, which is quite twice as much as they need to live upon, and complain loudly that they are shamefully underpaid and cruelly treated because they are required to go into the country to work. The colonists of New Zealand are a holiday-mak ing people. The working hours are eight hours a day for adults, and four hours a day, with a half- holiday on Saturday, for young persons. Sunday labor is entirely unknown. There are stringent laws against the overworking of women or boys. There have even been persistent attempts made to THE COLONY AS IT IS. 47 get a law passed making it penal to employ men for more that eight hours a day ; and last year a bill was introduced in the Legislature and gravely dis cussed, forbidding shops to be kept open after six o'clock. Yet, with all this, holidays are very numer ous. Christmas Day, Boxing Day (26th December), New Year's Day, the Queen's Birthday, Good Fri day, Easter Monday, the Prince of Wales' Birthday, and Anniversary Day are universally recognized as holidays by all classes. Then St. George's Day, St. Andrew's Day, and St. Patrick's Day are gov ernment holidays and bank holidays. But over and above these recognized holidays, it is the common practice for a day or two more to be taken at Christ mas, at the New Year, and at Easter, so as to make an unbroken holiday of two, three, or four days, in cluding a Sunday. At these times the great mass of the people give themselves up wholly to amuse ment. Horse races, which are exceedingly common in New Zealand, are fixed for these seasons, as are also athletic sports, cricket and football matches, volunteer reviews or camps, agricultural and pastoral shows, which are very popular, and attended by great crowds, regattas, boat races, excursions by sea and land, and all sorts of dramatic and musical en tertainments in the evening. The commonest of all forms of holiday amuse ment, however, are picnics. The different trades have picnics of their own, such as the butchers, the bakers, the printers, and so on. So also do friendly Societies, the Odd-fellows, Foresters, Orangemen, Hibernian Society and others. At all of these, the 48 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. public are cordially welcomed on payment of a small sum, half a crown, or less, towards the expenses. The company often consists of hundreds of men, women and children, who go out to some public gar dens, or some pretty place in the bush, or on private property (by the leave of the owner, which is never refused), either well provided with things to eat and drink on their own account, or else accompanied by caterers, who supply their needs at a fixed charge- by contract. Arrived at the rendezvous, sports and games are speedily arranged, and prizes, either of money or small articles of jewelry, are awarded to the successful competitors. Others wander where they will, gathering flowers and ferns, for which the colonists have an insatiable longing, and with which they will load themselves on every opportunity ; swinging under the trees ; dancing on the lawns ; or playing the universally popular game of kiss-in- the-ring. It is the rare exception for any intoxicat ing liquor to be dispensed on these occasions ; and the whole proceedings are as sober and harmless as they are merry. The religious denominations are not behindhand in picnics. The clergy and school teachers organize children's gatherings on a huge scale, and on any fine public holidays, the resources of the Railway Department are taxed to the utmost to carry the youngsters and their guardians and friends to the chosen spot. It is amusing to the or-, dinary railway traveller on such days to see, as he passes through some pretty country-side, not one or two, but perhaps a fifty different picnics in full swing, each numbering scores or hundreds of guests, mh* ORCHARDS AND FLOWER-GARDENS, WAIMEA ROAD, NELSON. THE COLONY AS IT IS. 49 and to learn that they are, respectively, the Church of England picnic, the Presbyterian picnic, the Wesley- an picnic, the Baptists' picnic, the Congregationalist picnic, the St. Patrick's picnic, the Salvation Army's picnic, and so on. It is, moreover, very pleasant and very striking to observe, on these occasions, the invariable evidences of decent comfort and thorough enjoyment of life among the thousands of well-fed, well-dressed, , and well-conditioned people who pour out of the towns into the country, and out of the villages into the fields, to spend the whole day in the sunshine and to find the day all too short for the happiness it. is to hold. On a nice, warm, tempting Boxing Day or New Year's Day, an enterprising burglar might walk through a New Zealand city and help himself un disturbed to the contents of most of the houses. Dwellings and streets are alike deserted, and a casual sojourner, not in the ways of the place, seeks in vain for anybody to speak to or anything to do. By six or seven o'clock, however, the streets are lively enough with returning crowds, and the merrymaking goes on till bedtime or till the people are too worn out with exercise and excitement to do anything but go to bed and dream of the pleasures of the past day. It is very common to hear of domestic events or social occurrences assigned to a particular date by these memorable holidays. " It was after last Queen's Birthday," or " It was before last Ninth of November," or, " I haven't seen you since last Box ing Day," or, " I remember it well, because it was Anniversary Day before last." 50 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. These out-of-door amusements or gatherings, in fact, go a long way to make up the social life of a people who live in a climate where the open air is always pleasant and healthful ; and it was a shrewd observation of a distinguished visitor to the colony, as well as more truthful than most- epigrams, that " New Zealand people are like cattle. You only have to turn a number of them into a grass paddock and leave them alone, and they will make themselves perfectly happy." It has been objected by many writers that the free, open-handed, independent sort of life in New Zealand destroys all reverence or respect ; that Jack is as good as his master ; that juniors pay no defer ence to elders ; and that, generally, liberty tends to run into license, and the bonds of a well-ordered society are apt to be loosened. This undoubtedly appears to be the case to persons newly arrived from an old country and accustomed to the more ceremo nious forms and the stricter domestic discipline of an ancient state of society. But a greater familiarity with the colony and a closer insight into the character of the people will show that it is only in appear ance. As regards the demeanor of the adult popu lation, it may be said that there is more civility and less servility than in the old country. Jack actu ally is as good as his master, as concerns some of the most important qualifications of a settler, and there is a natural repugnance to anything like pa tronage from one class to another, where all classes have so much in common and are really equal on so many grounds. But this levelling, as it seems, is a THE COLONY AS IT IS.- 51 levelling upwards, rather than a levelling downwards ;- and it is shown quite as much in the improved self- respect of the inferiors in social station, as in their lack of external demonstrations of respect towards their superiors. The rule in the colony is that, every man, and especially every woman, is entitled to be treated civilly and justly ; and any one who bears this rule in mind and observes it in his own conduct and demeanor, will have no cause to com plain of any disrespect, but will come to find the prevailing equality very convenient and agreeable. So again, the alleged want of respect of children towards their parents is more in appearance than in reality. Children in the colony are at once more companions of their parents than at home, and more independent of them. They learn from a very early age to think for themselves and to do a great many things for themselves which their parents would do for them in old countries, and in multitudes of in stances in the present stage of the colony they have had advantages which their parents had not, and are actually superior to them both physically and men tally. It is quite a common thing to see the sons of laboring people or trades-people, in the professions or in quite a prominent position, while the daugh ters are married to men in the position, not of their parents, but of their brothers. The same holds good in a greater or less degree throughout colonial society. The young people start from the point which their parents have only reached when ad- , vanced in life ; and are full of self-confidence and under little parental control. Yet they do not love 52 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. their parents less than children at Home do, and are not less dutiful to them in the essentials of filial piety. If should be said that in all ways, there is less emotional demonstrativeness in the colony than in an old country ; for the reason that the active and self-reliant mode of life enlarges the ideas and dispenses with many causes of sympathy. Those touching pictures which some painters excel in, of the son or the daughter leaving home for the first time, the broken-hearted parents, the weeping grand mother, the despairing juvenile, the carefully packed trunk, the last little presents, the servants in tears, waiting for a last, kiss, — have little or no meaning for young colonists. They travel about so much, and see so many changes, and know so much of the world, that a journey has no terrors for them, but is only a pleasure. The idea of prolonged separation is not at all oppressive, because they think nothing of coming or going a distance which would seem appalling to youngsters in their own class in old countries : and in any case, they are always within a couple or three days' post of their parents. It is not thought any adventure, for quite little school boys to travel a hundred miles or more, in a coasting steamer, or a train or coach, with nobody in charge of them ; while the whole rural class in New Zealand are so familiar with horses from their infancy that they can ride or drive almost anywhere fearlessly. So, they learn to help themselves, in all sorts of ways, at an age when children in England are still quite helpless, or at least in pretty tight leading- strings. Their parents encourage them to help J J THE COLONY AS IT IS. 53 themselves, and are proud of their independence and intrepidity. It will easily be understood, therefore, why there is not the same outward show of reverence for par ents that there is in old lands, where the parents are not only the providers, but the rulers, guardians, and guides of the children almost until they are men and women. There is, in a word, but little parental dis cipline in the colony, because there is but little need for any. As to the prevailing liberty tending to run into license, there are no evidences of that. Black guards are blackguards all the world over, and the children of low, disorderly, disreputable parents are very likely to be low, disorderly, and disreputable too. But even this class are steadily and rapidly im proving in New Zealand : whilst, among the great mass of the colonists, the rising generation are dis tinguished by their sobriety, and their freedom from vice. They undoubtedly have great facilities and even temptations to be idle, unruly, and vicious ; but their natural tendency appears to be towards good conduct and steadiness ; and this tendency is in creasing with the population born in the colony. The young of both sexes are very vigorous and early developed ; and they enjoy great freedom.. But there is no just complaint to be made against them on the score of morality. It is a remarkable fact that though the marriage rate is lower in New Zealand than in any other Australasian colony, owing probablyto the prolonged commercial depres sion, the unsettled position of a large number of families, and the scattered nature of the population. 54 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. there are fewer illegitimate children than in any coun try of which the statistics are available, and at the same time there is a larger natural increase. This sig nifies, of course, that the people are a moral people, who marry rather late and have large families. It is unusual for young people to marry until they have a settled income and a comfortable home ; and the vicissitudes of the past ten years have shown that this is no more than prudent, under all the circumstances. But the decencies of family life are very strictly ob served in New Zealand, especially among the born colonists ; and anything like open license is totally discountenanced by public opinion and social custom. Enough has now been said about the general con dition of the inhabitants of New Zealand to give a fair idea of how they live and what sort of people they are. It will have been said in vain if it has conveyed the impression that they are a people liv ing in great splendor, or rapidly acquiring riches, or so situated as to be capable of compassing or even aspiring to any sensational objects of worldly ambi tion. There is more wealth in one street of Lon don, Paris, or New York, than all the people of New Zealand possess. But there is also more poverty and misery in one street of any one of those great cities than the people of New Zealand could by any process be made even to picture to their imagination. They have been drawn in this book from life, as they are, — a British people, reproducing under free and happy auspices the moderate social and domes tic conditions of the middle strata of a prosperous, enlightened, progressive, and humane civilization. THE COLONY AS IT IS. 55 It would not be too much to say of them that they enjoy more and suffer less, as a community, than any other civilized people upon earth. The colony is quite able to maintain ten times as many people without any material change in their characteristics, and certainly without any deterioration of their ma terial welfare. Perhaps it is fortunate for it, how ever, that its great distance from the chief centres of European population, serves as a check upon that miscellaneous emigration to its shores which would be sure to ensue, if its circumstances were better known there and if it were more readily accessible. III. VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. New Zealand was at no very distant geological period the scene of vast volcanic disturbances, and it is to these, together with the action of glaciers flowing from the great mountains upheaved by a succession of convulsions, that the peculiar formation of the islands is due. The volcanic energy, in its more destructive form, however, has been laid to rest for many ages ; and the marvelous volcanic system that remains is profoundly interesting to all students of nature, and incalculably adds to the beauty, rich ness, and attractiveness of the country. There are still two active volcanoes in New Zealand, Tongariro, in the center of the North Island, a majestic moun tain 8000 feet high, towering above a vast solitude of elevated plateaux ; and White Island, about 25 miles from the mainland in the Bay of Plenty, on the East Coast of the North Island. Tongariro is a sacred mountain of the Maoris, who were strongly opposed, until lately, to its sanctity being violated by the foot of any profane person, that is to say, any pakeha or European, for the Maoris themselves were too terrified by their superstitious dread of its supernatural character even to approach it. This feeling, however, has now passed away, or may be propitiated by gifts judiciously distributed ; and 56 VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. 57 the ascent of Tongariro has been successfully made several times, some ladies being of the party on one occasion. It is a work of considerable labor, but the difficulties are not by any means excessive, whilst all hardships of a serious kind may be entirely avoided by the exercise of a little forethought and skillful provision. The beauty and, above all, the strange ness of the scenery are indescribable. Near to Tongariro is an extinct volcano of great magnificence, the snow-covered Ruapehu, in whose crater, reared thousands of feet above the surround ing country, is a lake of warm water, which no man has ever reached, or ever will, in all probability. That it is a warm lake is only known from the fact that when, in tempests, great bodies of snow are carried into it from the surrounding heights, columns of steam arise, — a phenomenon which has many times led to rumors, alarming enough to settlers in the neighborhood, that Ruapehu had again become active. White Island, seen from a distance at sea, looks like a long, lofty rock with a cloud hanging over it ; but, in fact, it is the crater of an immense volcano, larger than Vesuvius, which has risen from the bot tom of the ocean, and of which only the cliffs of scoria overhanging the crater are above water. On one side there are no cliffs, but only a steep boulder beach rising to the crater at a very slight elevation above high-water mark. This is the only landing- place, and it is only accessible in fine weather and when the wind is from the sea. The crater con sists of a mysterious lake of dark-green boiling 58 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. water, intensely impregnated with minerals, chiefly sulphur. This lake is at almost all times in a state of agitation ; and it frequently becomes subject to disturbances of terrific violence, when jets of steam not less, perhaps, than two thousand feet high are driven upwards until they are condensed or de pressed by the cold of the upper air, forming a snow- white canopy, suspended, as it were, over the island, and presenting a most curious and beautiful specta cle. Many observations have been taken of White Island ; but, like most volcanoes, it varies so much at different times, that none of them are of much permanent value. An intrepid naval officer once had the hardihood to venture out into the boiling lake on a raft, secured by a rope, to the shore ; but he was soon overcome by the fumes, and would un doubtedly have lost his life, if his comrades had not promptly hauled the rope in and applied restoratives to the disabled navigator. White Island is a natural laboratory in which the production of immense quantity of the purest sulphur is constantly going on. A company have made great efforts to work this for commerce ; but the difficulties of landing and ship ping, and the frequent interruptions from the winds carrying the fumes from the crater towards the works, have marred their success. There is a Maori tradition that White Island is connected by subter ranean channels with the hot lakes in the interior of the North Island, and that when White Island is unusually active, the lakes are simultaneously disturbed. The geologists, however, declare that this is a mere delusion, and that, in fact, White VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. 59 Island is an entirely isolated volcano,— a striking monument of the titanic force which, at some earlier stage of the world's history, played such fantastic tricks with earth and sea in these romantic regions. However that may be, there has been recently a practical proof that there is a connection between the activity of volcanic mountains and the condition of hot lakes. On the 10th of June, 1886, Tarawera, a remark able flat-topped mountain, which was supposed to be not only extinct since many ages, but actually sealed down by what seemed an immovable mass of rock, suddenly broke out into a stupendous state of eruption, and never ceased to pour out volumes of steam and mud and ashes, until a great part of its own bulk had been dissipated, and the surrounding country, for more than a hundred miles, had been covered with ddbris. It then became once more extinct, or rather dormant, as before, as suddenly as it had become active ; and it was then found that the great hot lake Rotomahana had been almost completely drained. The magnitude of this erup tion may be judged of by the fact that the noise was distinctly heard throughout the night, like big guns fired in rapid succession, at Wellington, 150 miles off, and the town of Taurauga, 60 miles to the East, was in total darkness for a whole day from the density of the vapor passing over it from the moun tain. Yet, it did surprisingly little harm. Three Europeans and a considerable number of Maoris were killed by their place of abode being buried in ashes ; but the only permanent mischief that was 60 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. done was the destruction of some of the rare natu ral beauties of the locality. Even these, moreover, were compensated to some extent by the creation of new wonders, and especially by an entire change of scene, over a large tract of country. This is the only volcanic eruption of any violence which has occurred in New Zealand within the memory of man. But there are multitudinous signs of the volcanic past. The island of Rangitoto — " bloody sky " — at the entrance of Auckland harbor, is considered the most perfect specimen of an extinct volcano in existence. It is almost circular, about iooo feet high, symme trically conical, with two craters at the apex. Its sides are covered from the summit to the sea with rude masses of scoria rock, just as they were thrown from the craters and left to cool, after the last erup tion. Among these, towards the base, have sprung up trees and various kinds of vegetation, but it will probably be many centuries before the mountain covers its rugged brown nakedness with a smooth robe of green. There are fishermen's huts on the more sheltered side of Rangitoto, and there is no difficulty in landing or in exploring any part of the mountain. It is a common resort of pleasure par ties from Auckland, and is well worth a visit. A few miles inland from the city of Auckland, com mencing actually in the immediate suburbs, are a chain of very perfect and very picturesque extinct volcanoes, truly conical in form, and each retaining its crater or craters very much as they were left when activity ceased. But they are clothed to their MOUNT EGMONT AND FARM LANDS ON THE EDGE OF THE BUSH. Taranaki, North Island. VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. 61 summit with rich turf of the most vivid green, and are surrounded by lands fertilized to the highest point as far as the lava flood spread. Upon the slopes of these once formidable volcanoes are situ ated some of the most delightful residences in the colony, and the volcanic soil is wholly occupied by flourishing pastures and gardens and plantations. By far the most remarkable and imposing extinct volcano in New Zealand remains to be mentioned, the superb Egmont, which forms a distant back ground to the town qf New Plymouth, the capital of the fertile province of Taranaki, on the West coast of the North Island. This splendid mountain is 10,000 feet high, and rises above the snow-line in a delicately proportioned cone, its great elevation being fully realized from the sea, while from inland, it is somewhat detracted from by the height of the range of forest-covered hills of which it is the termi nus. The ascent of Egmont is not particularly diffi cult. It involves a few days' pic-nicking and a few nights' camping ; and is often achieved by parties of friends, including ladies and children. The highest mountains in the country are the Southern Alps of the Middle Island, which form a complete sierra or mountain system extending irregularly from the extreme North to the extreme South, and reaching, in various noble peaks, an alti tude of 7000, 10,000, or 13,000 feet. Mount Cook, justly named after the great discoverer, is the mon arch of them all, and is one of the most beautiful and interesting mountains in the world. Its glacial surroundings are on a gigantic scale, far grander 62 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. than that of the glaciers of much higher mountains in other parts of the globe. A well-known member of the Alpine Club, accompanied by two Swiss guides, whom he brought with him from Europe, attempted the ascent of Mount Cook some years ago.;,. He claims to have reached the summit, but it is extremely doubtful whether he did so ; and the great probability is that Mount Cook is still among the virgin mountains of the world. The establish ment of the Hermitage at its foot, which is fully de scribed elsewhere among the Sanatoria, has made it quite a favorite resort of travelers and holiday- makers. Among the Australian colonies, and perhaps more widely, New Zealand has the reputation of being a land of earthquakes, and it is undecided whether the Australians have a more exaggerated notion of the New Zealand earthquakes, or the New Zealanders of the Australian snakes. The truth is, accident from snakebite is extremely rare in Australia, and injury from earthquake is practically unknown in New Zea land. Correctly speaking, earthquakes do not occur in New Zealand, and never have occurred within the historic period. An earthquake proper is a dis turbance limited to an area of the world's surface immediately above the center of motion, or not more distant from it on either side of the center, than the center itself is from the surface. Outside of this area, the disturbance is what is distinctively called in South America a tremblor, and is in actual fact nothing more than a trembling of the earth, a reverberation from the shock of a distant earth- VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. 63 quake. Upon this definition, there are no earth quakes in New Zealand, but only tremblores, or earth tremors ; because the center of motion is not beneath any part of the islands, but somewhere away in the ocean depths, at a considerable distance from the shore. These tremblores, or earth tremors, nevertheless, are common all over New Zealand, but, though somewhat alarming to those not familiar with them, are not really dangerous, and the fear of them is habitually treated as a joke. The severest earth tremors ever experienced in New Zealand were those of the 17th October, 1848, and the 23d January, 1855. The former was con fined to a space of about 300 miles, between Banks Peninsula in the Middle Island, and White Island in the Bay of Plenty. Masses of bitumen were washed on shore along the west coast of the North Island after the shock, showing that the earthquake center was somewhere at the bottom of the sea. The latter was less extensive. It was chiefly felt at Wellington, where it did considerable mischief, and caused some loss of life from falling chimneys and lightly built walls. It lasted a minute and a half, and was followed by a prolonged succession of lighter shocks. The trembling lasted for some days, and by the time when it had entirely ceased, it had had the extraordinary effect of raising the town of Wellington and all the surrounding country from three to six feet higher above the level of the sea than they were before. The persistent tendency of these earth tremors, great or small, in fact, is to raise the land ; and at Wellington may be seen at this day a populous 64 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. quarter of the town built on what was a swamp forty years ago, and a very fine recreation ground, frequented by thousands of people for cricket, foot ball, and other sports, occupying a site which was originally reserved for a dock, with a waterway to the harbor, which is now a broad street, planted with an avenue of cypresses, and traversed by a tramway. The monument to Colonel Wakefield, the founder of the colony, who died in 1848, before the first earthquake, consists of a Corinthian temple, containing a drinking-fountain, overlooking the pleasure-ground which he himself designed for a dock. There are many amusing stories told of the ter rors of the early settlers upon their first sensation of earth tremors. When that of 1848 occurred, the settlement was still young and not very firmly established ; and the news of the California gold discoveries had rendered the settlers restless. After the shock, therefore, partly from terror and partly from discontent, nearly a thousand settlers took ship for San Francisco, carrying cargoes of sawn timber, potatoes and other commodities. The Maoris too, had been very troublesome and were still threaten ing ; and it is recorded that a sturdy settler at the Hutt, near Wellington, hearing the rumble and feel ing the thud of the earth-shock, seized his gun and fired both barrels through the window at the sup posed enemy, determined to defend his hearth and home to the last. Since 1855 there has been no shock of earthquake worth special mention, and the sense of insecurity VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. 65 has so entirely vanished that even in the towns where the tremors most prevail, it is the common practice to build in brick to a height of three, four or even five stories, while the churches seem to vie with one another in the height of their spires. Early in the morning of the ist of September, 1888, nevertheless, there occurred a most singular dis turbance, which, until it was explained, somewhat revived the old fears. It lasted about half a minute, was distinctly felt all over New Zealand, and was even recorded by the seismometer at Sydney, 1200 miles to- the west of New Zealand. At Christchurch, the capital of the Province of Canterbury in the Middle Island, the stone spire of the Cathedral, about 200 feet high, was broken off for 26 feet, no other injury being done. Within a few days it was ascertained that the chief manifestation of the earth quake consisted of a slipping or cracking of the surface in a remote and sparsely inhabited district, in the interior of the island, about 100 miles from- Christchurch, where there are hot springs and other evidences of past volcanic activity. Upon examina tion, it was clearly shown that the mishap to the Cathedral spire was attributable to faulty construc tion, a heavy iron cross, with a cumbrous iron bar and weight attached, being clamped into stone of very inferior quality, so that at the slightest shake the whole structure gave way down to the solid masonry. These earth-tremors, for some reason which is unexplained, usually occur at an early hour of the morning, say between four and eight o'clock, and — 66 NEW ZEALAND AF7'ER FIFTY YEARS. contrary to the general impression — when the tem perature is low, and the air calm. They are pre ceded by a slight rustling or rumbling noise, which is constantly mistaken for a carriage passing, and almost at the same moment with the noise there is felt a quick trembling, very slight at first, and rapidly increasing to a wave-like shake which makes wooden houses creak, and sets crockery and lamp-glasses rattling, and often ends in a shock or thud, as if there had been a thump or blow from below. The whole thing seldom lasts more than a few seconds, and a great many people sleep right through it, and will not believe, when they get up, that there has been an earthquake, whilst others, who have been awakened and gone to sleep again, have a confused notion of somebody having shaken their bed or knocked against the adjoining wall. Others are more or less" gravely alarmed, according to their ner vous temperament or the state of their conscience ; and some there are, whom a scarcely perceptible earth-tremor makes sick for a whole day. The effect of an earth-tremor on many people is not unlike the hysterical effect which is often see among ladies when a mouse runs across the floor. In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, the ridiculus onus is as dangerous as the New Zealand " earth quake." Practically, there is no danger at all from earthquakes in New Zealand, and it is quite safe to say that much greater damage has been done by earthquakes in Great Britain or France during the present century than in New Zealand. During a prolonged sitting of the Colonial Parliament, a VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKES. 67 tedious orator was boring the House into the small hours of the morning, when a somewhat sharp shock occurred, accompanied by the usual rattling noise. The astonished legislator stopped in his torrent of talk, gazed vacantly round him for a moment, and then fled precipitately from the chamber. The wag of the House immediately proposed a vote of thanks to the earthquake, and the weary members adjourned amid loud cheers. IV. FAUNA AND FLORA. A chapter on the Fauna of New Zealand might almost be written with the brevity of the learned Swede's celebrated chapter on the snakes of Iceland, "There are no snakes in Iceland." It is one of the most astonishing and inexplicable facts in nature, that a country so eminently suited for the support of every description of animal life capable of exist ing within its wide range of temperature, should have been almost entirely void of indigenous ani mals. .The only mammals New Zealand is believed to have possessed before the arrival of Captain Cook in 1769 are the kiore, a small, dark-brown rat with round ears like a mouse ; and two very small bats, which are only found in a few localities, and are by no means common there. The country may be allowed the bats for its own, but the overwhelming probability is that the kiore is merely the progeny of rats brought in the discov erer's ships, which has somewhat changed its appear ance from its change of circumstances. It is said to have been very common at the beginning of the European settlement ; but it is now seldom seen, the Norway rat having altogether displaced it in the neighborhood of man. The kiore, which is not readily distinguishable, 68 FAUNA AND FLORA. 69 unless by a naturalist, from the common rat, does not infest houses, though it may sometimes enter them for food, but is a wild animal living in the bush and feeding on roots and berries. There is an extraordinary and quite unexplained phenomenon connected with the kiore which is worth mentioning here, in the hope that some natur alist or other man of science reading this book may be able to throw some light on it. The kiore, as has been said, is now a rare animal, very shy and probably nocturnal. But there are times when it makes its appearance in vast numbers, coming no one knows whence and going no one knows whither, yet evidently governed by some irresistible law of nature. Three or four years ago such a visitation of rats occurred on the West Coast of the Middle Island, a countless swarm of these little creatures traveling southward along the shore for a distance of more than 150 miles, all going one way and all moving as fast as they could, as if impelled by an inexorable destiny, in spite of all sorts of obstacles. A large proportion of them died of hunger by the way, and the' moving host were exposed throughout their journey to terrible inroads by the acclimatized brown rat, a much stronger and fiercer animal than the kiore; just as the revolted Tartars in their famous flight across Asia in the last century were pursued and assailed by Cossacks and other fero cious nomads the whole way from the confines of Russia to the territory of the Chinese Emperor. After passing in a ceaseless procession along the shore for some months, the rats vanished as sud- 70 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. denly and mysteriously as they had appeared ; and to this day no one has been able to offer even a plausible theory regarding them. The interior of that part of the country where they appeared is very mountainous and secluded, only very scantily ex plored, in fact, and extremely sparsely inhabited ; and it is quite possible that there may be great numbers of kiore in the remote forests or swamps, from which they were driven temporarily by some unknown cause. The most incredible fact connected with this strange migration remains to be stated. From many observations taken at various points in the line of march of this grand army, it was ascertained, apparently beyond dispute, that they consisted solely of males, not a single female being found among great numbers of live or dead ones that were exam ined. Should any reader of this book be able to explain this curious freak of nature or should know of any parallel case, any information he could afford would doubtless be received with thanks, and duly made public, by Sir James Hector, the learned Di rector of the New Zealand Institute at Wellington. If we add to the two little bats and the very dubi ous kiore, the several kinds of seals which frequent the southern shores of New Zealand at certain sea sons, we have already exhausted the whole list of indigenous mammals. There were absolutely no other beasts, while the reptiles are confined to the lizards, the beautiful but insignificant little creatures about as long as the finger, which are found every where near the seashore, and the weird tuatara, a dark-bronze fringed lizard or iguana, from six inches FAUNA AND FLORA. 71 to a foot in length, which is only found on certain exposed and rocky islets, totally void of any visible sustenance, on the coast of the North Island. The titatara is the very embodiment of a negative exist ence. It is repulsively ugly, judged by any conven tional ideas of beauty ; but is perfectly harmless, and is probably very good to eat for those who have a stomach for such uncanny fare. Its most remark able characteristic is, however, its unequaled capacity of dolce far niente. It is found in its natural habitat clinging motionless to its rock, perfectly regardless, apparently, either of the driving spray of the bitter southerly storm or of the blinding glare of the northern sun. In short, it has no feelings. It wants no food or drink, but is quite content to be kept in a glass case for months or years, even the want of air seeming to affect its sluggish vitality very slightly, if at all. It makes no noise, and moves so seldom and so slowly that many people have watched a number of htatara in a case until they were tired, and then have gone away in the firm conviction that the creatures were stuffed. Yet, when they have come back next day, they have found their position altered, and by keeping a steady gaze on them, have discerned them blinking their golden eyes, or slightly palpitating their leath ery sides, or moving their solemn head as slowly as the minute-hand of a clock. The tuatara is sup posed to belong to an antediluvian race of animals ; and from its habits it can well be believed to have been left behind when the other animals got into the ark. The Maoris have a superstitious horror of the 72 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. tuatara, and will run away in abject fear if one is produced. Yet it is absolutely innocuous, having no weapon of offense or defense, and no energy to use either if it had it. In the absence of any more real animals, two mythical ones may be briefly mentioned. These are the taniwha and the kaurehe. Both are aquatic or amphibious in their habits, the taniwha being ap parently confined to the North Island and the kau rehe to the Middle Island. The taniwha is a power ful and bloodthirsty monster, frequenting tapu or sacred pools or rivers but sometimes met with in the sea, and devouring persons who profanely violate the sanctity of its haunts or who have otherwise offended the gods. Some years ago, a Maori clergy man of the Church of England on the East Coast reported to the Government that a beautiful and beloved young woman, a member of his flock, had rashly gone to bathe in a tapu pool against his and her friends' entreaties ; that she had been missing for some days ; and that then her body had been found on a rock beside the pool, badly mangled by a taniwha. There is no English name for the tani wha, but it may safely be classed under the generic term of Bogey. The kaurehe has at least a possible existence. It is supposed to be a kind of large otter,— as large as a calf, some say, — but the evi dences of it are far from satisfactory. Several credible observers have described the trail of some such animal on the mud or smooth sandy shore of lakes ; and the late learned Curator of the Canter bury Museum, Sir Julius von Haast, recorded hav- FAUNA AND FLORA. 73 ing heard the movement of some such animal by night when camped beside a lake in Nelson, and having been robbed of a bundle of fish. Shepherds and others in the Alpine regions go so far as to declare that they have seen the kaurehe either lying on the shore of the lakes or swimming in the water ; but none of their accounts will bear very close ex amination. The Maoris firmly believe in the kau rehe ; but then the Maori mind is so constituted that belief in the non-existent is at least as easy to it as belief in the existent. But, if any Europeans believe in it at all, it is with that faith which is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen. Coming now to birds, there is a very different story to tell. New Zealand was once the abode of the largest and most marvelous bird in the world, a bird which actually brings the fabled Roc of Sin- bad the Sailor within the region of prosaic possi bility; and which throws the Roc into insignificance as far as outlandishness is concerned. The Roc was only a large eagle, large enough to fly away with a man lashed to one of its claws. But the Moa, the Gigantic Dinornis of New Zealand, was a wingless bird standing twelve or fifteen feet high, stalking about on legs as long and as strong as a camel's, laying greenish white eggs about a foot in length, and swallowing handfuls of pebbles to aid its digestion. This stupendous Apterix is believed to be wholly extinct ; though there is no positive reason why it should not yet be found living in some of the hitherto unexplored and all but inaccessible soli- 74 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. tudes on the southwest coast of the Middle Island. But its remains are found in immense quantities in both islands, showing that it was at one time ex ceedingly common. The museums in New Zealand contain a great many fine skeletons of the moa, as well as fragments of the eggs, bones of the chicks, feathers, and stones from the crop, found in the skeletons. There is no more puzzling problem, per haps, than that of the moa. Judging from the recent appearance of the bones, feathers, and other relics, which are found either in caves or close to the surface of the ground, in all sorts of situations, it might be supposed to have only died out, like the quail, and other native birds, within the memory of man. Some old Maoris have been heard to declare that they hunted and ate the moa in their youth, Yet the fact that no allusion to the moa has ever been found in any Maori legend or genealogy, some of which go back nearly 800 years, — whereas these records abound in allusions to all other natural ob jects, — seems to some authorities conclusive against the bird having existed since a remote antiquity. That the moa was at one time hunted and eaten in enormous numbers is proved beyond question by the evidence of cooked bones found among burnt stones in ancient ovens, with stone weapons or im plements. But when that time was, or who the moa hunters were, are matters beyond the ken of mortal man, and are subject of the widest divero-ence of opinion among the savants. This subject is re ferred to more fully in a subsequent chapter on the antiquity of the Maori. FAUNA AND FLORA. 75 There are still in New Zealand in considerable abundance, however, three birds of the moa kind, though on a comparatively diminutive scale. These are the two varieties of kiwi, differing strikingly in the two Islands ; and the weka, or wood-hen, which is found everywhere. These three are true apterix, quite wingless birds, or provided only with rudimen tary wings not externally visible. The kiwi does not look like a bird at all. It is about a foot high, and about the same length. It has a round body covered with soft plumage resembling brown or dark gray fur, no tail, not a sign of wings, thick legs, and three finger-like toes, and a long curved, slender bill, sensitive to the point, through which it sucks its food in swamps or shallows. The weka is a more ordinary looking fowl* of a rich brown color with red eyes, something like a hen-pheasant, without wings and •with a very short tail ; but its habits are most peculiar. It is-the most inquisitive creature living, and, but for the extraordinary quickness and cunning of its move ments, would fall an easy prey to all sorts of ene mies through that feminine failing. It must always know what is going on, and will even enter boldly the tent of the encamped traveler, and steal his goods and chattels as he lies in his blanket. It is very common, when a coach stops to change horses at some roadside stable in the unpeopled wilds, to see three or four of these queer birds emerge from the surrounding herbage, and gravely and minutely investigate the proceedings, walking almost under the horses' heels and surveying the passengers as if they were old friends, yet ready, at the first hostile 76 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. sign to make themselves scarce as if by magic. Many a man's life has been saved in the bush, when starvation seemed inevitable, by a knowledge of the w'ekds insatiable thirst for knowledge. The plan is to tie a piece of rag or paper, — the wing of a small bird best of all, — to the end of a string or switch ; then to tap with a regular cadence on a log or tree or stone. Soon is seen a weka, or two, or three, poking and gliding and popping about, evidently wondering where on earth the strange noise can proceed from. The hungry bushman remains con cealed in the foliage, and goes on tapping until the weka is close to him. Then he swings the string or switch with the lure on the end of it, slowly and regularly at arm's length, holding a stout stick ready in the other hand. The weka cannot resist this. It comes boldly up, and, without giving a look or a thought to the man, stands up and pecks at the swinging object. The stick descends smartly and knocks it down, dead or disabled, when, if the trav eler is wise, he skins it immediately. The weka is excellent food, but so exceedingly oily as to be repulsive if not skinned at once after it is killed. The oil is a very efficacious salve for wounds or bruises, and is also used for dressing boots to make them water-tight. It is so penetrating, however, that it soon destroys the leather, if used often. These birds are quite peculiar to New Zealand, none at all like them being found in any other part of the world. Another very curious bird is the kakapo, or ground parrot, a large green bird from 12 to 18 inches high, and bulky for its height, which inhabits caves and THE KIWI (Apteryx), A WINGLESS BIRD. FAUNA AHD FLORA. 77 holes in rocks or trees, and either does not fly at all, or flies heavily for a short distance only, though it has fully developed wings. It is a nocturnal bird and very recluse ; but numerous enough where found, chiefly on the West Coast of the Middle Island. There are two other ' parrots, the kaka, a handsome brown bird, with crimson streaks under the wings, very good to eat ; and the kea, or moun tain parrot, a greenish brown bird of most eccentric habits. The kea is a gregarious nocturnal bird, living in its natural state in colonies in the moun tain heights, feeding on berries and breeding in caves or under ledges of rock, without making any nest, the eggs being hatched in common by the male and female birds. Since the grass fires and the spread of stock have destroyed or rendered scarce its natural food, however, the kea has developed a carnivorous habit of an unparalleled description. It descends upon the flocks, and wherever it finds a sheep in the snow or otherwise disabled from escap ing, it fastens itself upon its back, and tearing away the wool, skin and flesh with its powerful beak, it makes, with an unerring instinct, for the kidney fat, which it greedily devours, leaving the sheep to die in agony. During a severe winter, when the keas have been driven down from the mountains by want of food, many thousands of sheep have been known to be destroyed in this manner. The strictly noc turnal habits of the kea, made it very difficult for the sheep-farmers to protect their flocks from its rava ges ; but since its communal system of breeding was discovered, it has been successfully coped with, and 78 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. is not now considered a serious pest. Both the kaka and the kea are easily tamed and are very imitative and amusing pets. There are two small, long-tailed paroquets, both with exquisitely vivid green plumage and with a brilliant scarlet and light red or yellow top-knot, respectively. In some seasons they are exceedingly numerous, and play havoc with fruit gardens and crops ; but ordinarily they haunt the forests some what sparsely and are seldom seen near dwellings. The most interesting and familiar bird in the New Zealand forest is the tui, or parson bird, rather larger than a blackbird and not unlike it in shape, but having a most beautiful plumage of burnished green and black, shot with blue, and a tuft of snow- white curled feathers on the breast, which bear a fanciful resemblance to the parson's bands. The tui is a honey-feeder, and has a most melodious note, interspersed with a guttural clucking and a kind of sneezing sound, which are very comical. One of the greatest charms of the bush is to watch these birds flying in a bevy about the highest trees, where honey-bearing flowers abound, or congregating in the fuchsia bushes beside some babbling stream, filling the air with their quaint and striking song. The tui is strictly preserved by the law, under heavy penalties, and is commonly regarded as the friend and companion of man. It is easily tamed, and learns to talk like a starling or jackdaw. Another very handsome honey-feeder, or feeder on insects affecting honey-flowers, is the huia, a large bird whose broad tail-feathers, tipped with FAUNA AND FLORA. 79 white, are the invariable sign of chieftainship among the Maoris, worn in the hair or hanging in a bunch to a staff or weapon. The white crane, properly speaking a heron, is a graceful silver-white bird, now very rare. The Maoris have a proverb, "As seldom as the flight of the white crane," referring either to its rarity or to some migratory habit which is not now observable. The blue heron, frequenting sea shallows and rocks, and the pukeko, a large blue coot with scarlet bill and legs, are also notable specimens of waders. The pukeko, which abounds in swamps, rockets like a pheasant, and affords excellent sport, besides being quite equal to pheasant on the table. The paradise duck, which is really a small goose of beautiful plumage, the gray duck, shoveler, blue mountain duck, black and brown teal, and grebe of several kinds, are the chief water-fowl. The wood-pigeon is a splendid bird, twice the size of the domestic pigeon, with a gorgeous plumage of burnished green shot with pink, scarlet bill and feet, and a snow-white breast. The cuckoo is a large and handsome bird of prey, nocturnal and very recluse. It is doubtful whether it is more than a visitor to New Zealand, but it certainly breeds here sometimes. The wattled crow is a curious and interesting bird, but very uncommon. There are many other varie ties of wood-birds, but it is unnecessary to describe them, particularly in a work like this, for they are seldom seen by visitors to the colony or even by set tlers, unless they search for them. The nocturnal habits of many, if not most, New Zealand birds 80 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. give the impression that they are fewer than they really are. There are several kinds of hawks and cormorants, some small owls, curlews, plovers, oyster catchers, dotterell, and wagtails. Those who wish to study this subject more fully, having a genuine taste for ornithology, will enjoy a grand treat in reading Sir Walter Buller's magnifi cent Birds of New Zealand, one of the finest works of the kind ever produced. New Zealand is singularly bare of insects of the larger kind. There were no wasps or bees, and butterflies and moths, though fairly numerous, are somewhat insignificant, and not distinguished by either size or beauty. The beetles are also few and small. Mosquitoes and sandflies are the only noxious insects, and they are not nearly so virulent as in less temperate climates. The mosquitoes, strangely enough, seldom trouble any but strangers, and the sandflies never trouble anybody after dark. Both mosquitoes and sandflies recede before settlement, and are scarcely noticeable in the towns. The cicada, a small kind of locust, and grasshoppers, are common in some parts, but are not numerous enough to be destructive. All the insects have diminished very markedly since the introduction of various kinds of birds, and some have been got rid of alto gether. The most remarkable insect peculiar to New Zealand is the weta, a most formidable-looking crea ture of the cricket genus, found in dead trees or sometimes in the earth. It is from an inch to an inch and a half in length, and has a terrifying aspect, but is quite harmless. On the whole, the entomolo- FAUNA AND FLORA. 8r gist will find little field in New Zealand ; upon which the settlers may very heartily congratulate them selves. Blessed is the country which has no insects. Any notice, however brief, of the insects of New Zealand, would be imperfect without some account of the oddest insect in existence, — so odd, in fact, that if it were not vouched for on unimpeachable au thority, and explained scientifically, as far as science can deal with such a case, it would certainly be set down for a hoax, only fit to be classed with the mer maid and other ingenious frauds in Barnum's Muse um at New York. It is not easy to decide whether it ought to be described under the fauna or the flora of New Zealand, for it is at least as much vege table as animal, and, indeed, in its final stage, it is a vegetable and nothing else. This is the aweto, or vegetable-caterpillar, called by the naturalists Hipi- alis virescens. It is a perfect caterpillar in every res pect, and a remarkably fine one too, growing to a length, in the largest specimens, of three and a half inches and the thickness of a finger, but more com monly to about half or two-thirds of that size. Until it is full-grown, it appears to conduct itself very much like any other caterpillar, except that it is never found anywhere but in the neighborhood of the rata tree, a gigantic, scarlet flowering myrtle, and that it habitually buries itself in the ground a few inches below the surface. Then, when full grown, it undergoes a miraculous change. For some inexplicable reason, the spore of a vegetable fungus, Sphoeria Robertsii, fixes itself on its neck, or between the head and the first ring of the caterpillar, takes «2 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. root and grows vigorously. The plant is exactly like a diminutive bulrush, from six to ten inches high, without leaves and consisting solely of a single stem, with a dark-brown felt-like head, so familiar in the bulrushes. This stem penetrates the earth over the caterpillar and stands up a few inches above the ground. The root simultaneously grows into the body of the caterpillar, which it exactly fills in every part, without altering its form in the slightest degree, but simply substituting a vegetable substance for an animal substance. As soon as this process is com plete, both the caterpillar and the fungus die, and become dry and hard, but without shriveling at all. The thing then is a wooden caterpillar, so to speak, with a wooden bulrush standing up from its neck. Papier mache, perhaps, would better describe it than wood. It can be taken out of the ground entire, without any difficulty, and preserved for any length of time. Where the aweto is found at all, — always FA UNA AND FLORA. 83 at the foot of the rata, — it is often found in great numbers, so that dozens of specimens may be ob tained at once. The Maoris eat it, in its soft state, when it is much like marrow in consistency and flavor; and, when it is dry, they powder it and use it for a flesh dye in tatoo. What the purpose of Providence was in creating such a combination passes human comprehension ; but it seems quite certain that the caterpillar and the fungus are made for one another. Hipialis virescens is never found without Sphoeria Robertsii growing out of it ; and Sphoeria Robertsii is never found without Hipialis virescens attached to it. How the caterpillar propagates its species is a dark and solemn mystery. In the ordinary course of insect life, the caterpillar becomes a chrysalis, the chrysalis becomes a moth, the moth lays eggs, and the eggs produce more caterpillars, and so the pro cess goes on indefinitely. But Hipialis virescens never becomes a chrysalis at all. It always remains a caterpillar, only it turns into a papier-mache cater pillar. Where the moth comes from that lays the eggs out of which Hipialis virescens is hatched, therefore, is a problem at which science is entirely at fault. The reader will probably deem his cre dence somewhat severely taxed by this account of the vegetable caterpillar ; and he may well be excused for doing so. The author of this work, however, gives his assurance that he has had many fine specimens of the aweto in his. possession ; and lest it should be thought possible that he may have been imposed upon, he thinks it worth while 84 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. to refer the skeptical to an admirable description of the creature, with an accurate drawing by Delamotte, in the late celebrated naturalist Frank Buckland's notes to White's Natttral History of Selborne. In striking contrast to the poverty of the natural fauna of New Zealand, is the variety and vigor of the acclimatized life. It seems as if the islands had been created and reserved for ages for the special delectation of animals indigenous to the most distant parts of the earth, for almost all imported creatures thrive and multiply amazingly. For this reason severe laws have been passed against the introduc tion of noxious animals. Acclimatization began with the first exploration. Tasman never landed in New Zealand, and he left no animals there ; but Cook put some pigs ashore, and from these have come the countless wild swine which are still found in the ' mountains and forests, notwithstanding the cease less war waged against them by the settlers. Poaka, pork, was already a favorite food of the natives be fore the European settlement, and " long pig" was the name they gave to white men slain for their can nibal feasts. There has always been a dispute among naturalists in Europe as to whether the domestic porker and the wild hog are two distinct species, or merely one species under different conditions. The controversy has settled itself in New Zealand, where the descendants of Captain Cook's pigs are as truly wild as any in the world, bristling, swift of foot, and of enormous strength in the forepart from the neces sary habit of rooting for food. The old boars are formidable monsters, reaching sometimes five feet in FA UNA AND FLORA. 85 length, armed with huge tusks as sharp as a knife, and protected by a shield of bristles and hide and gristle which a bullet glances off as from a target. The leanness and roughness of the wild pig gives it quite a different appearance from the domesticated variety; and hence a gaunt, ill-shaped, or sorry look ing pig is everywhere called in derision a " Captain Cook." The wild pig, nevertheless, though lean, is not in bad condition, but is excellent to eat. When caught young and reared in styes, wild pigs soon become scarcely distinguishable from a coarse breed of tame ones, and in a generation or two lose all their wild characteristics. New Zealand is just the country for swine, the common bracken, which for merly covered a great part of its surface, the Span iard, a large, spikey plant with a root like a gigantic parsnip, and many other plants, affording abundant food. Captain Cook probably introduced goats as well as pigs, and these also have completely taken possession of the mountains and forests, where they are regarded simply as wild animals. The " Maori " dog, now extinct, was only an European mongrel. Red and fallow deer have been turned out in several localities and have made themselves quite at home and rapidly increased. Hares and rabbits are ex tremely numerous, the latter having become a ter rible pest which has only been partially overcome by the utmost efforts of the Government and the set tlers. Stoats and weasels have been established in order to keep the rabbits down. Pheasants are numerous in olaces, but are not increasing, while the attempt to establish partridges and grouse has failed 86 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. from some unknown cause. On the other hand, curiously enough, while the little native quail has become extinct, the crested quail of California has become one of the commonest of all birds, swarming in remote bush clearings or mountain gullies, and boldly invading the gardens and parks of the cities. Sparrows, skylarks, blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, gold finches, chaffinches, and starlings are as common as in England. The black swan of Australia frequents the lakes and marshes near the sea in vast numbers. The Indian minah, a pied bird of the size and some what of the ways of the jackdaw, is quite a feature of some of the towns, especially Wellington. Great efforts have been made, and large sums of public and private money have been spent to intro duce salmon into the New Zealand rivers, but, so far, the only result has been disappointment. Innumer able ova have been successfully hatched out ; innum erable fry have been turned out, and have thriven amazingly up to a certain stage. But there is not a single well-authenticated instance of a true salmon having been caught or seen. What becomes of them is a mystery ; but the most reasonable belief is that when they go down to the sea, either the high tem perature is fatal to them or they meet with some natural enemy which exterminates them. Certainly they never come back. They have been brought to maturity in preserves by artificial means at Christ church, and have deposited ova which have been hatched out ; and from the fry thus actually gener ated in the country, it is hoped a breed of New Zealand salmon may be established. But even this FAUNA AND FLORA. 87 is at best an experiment. What makes the failure with salmon all the more strange is that the success with trout has been extraordinary. Every descrip tion of trout that has been taken in hand by the pisciculturists has done splendidly, and all the rivers, streams and lakes are becoming stocked with fish which grow to an incredible size. The strangest thing of all is that, while the salmon have never been seen again after going down to the sea, the trout take freely to salt water, and are greatly improved by it. The fishermen at Port Chalmers and at the Shag River in Otago frequently take trout in their nets, weighing from ten pounds to twenty pounds, and better fish was never placed on a table. In the Hutt River near Wellington, a trout was recently taken in quite fresh water, having in its stomach a spider crab which is only found in the deep sea. To those not familiar with the phenomena of acclimatization, these may seem like fables ; but the truth is, Nature has many surprises for us, when we attempt to adapt her creatures to our own circum stances. Thus, many animals and birds acquire peculiarities in a new country which would indeed astonish those accustomed to them in the old. To begin with, they usually run to a much greater size, and breed oftener. They also take to strange kinds of food. Birds deemed graminivorous at home become insectivorous here, and vice versd. Some learn the habits of the native species. Skylarks imi tate the native wagtail, and may often be seen perch ing on fences or telegraph wires. They sing in the night time, too, a thing unheard of in the old country, 88 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and doubtless acquired from the nocturnal habits of the New Zealand birds. A rural member of the Legislature, in the course of a most amusing speech upon the vote for introducing salmon, declared himself in opposition to the vote on the ground that his crops had all been devoured by " insectivorous " birds, and he was convinced that if salmon were introduced, they would develop into a new and extra- ferocious species of shark. Many insects have been introduced, either acci dentally or by design. The common house-fly is among the number. It is a remarkable fact that whilst Australia, only 1200 miles from New Zea land, is a land of flies, where they are almost as great a plague as in Egypt, they first reached New Zea land from England, and are accounted a blessing. One of the first things that struck Dampier, who vis ited Australia in 1688, was the habit of the natives of placing their hands or boughs of trees, to their face,. as if shading them or making some kind of signal. This proved to be the gesture still universal among both races in Australia, for driving away the flies which cluster every moment like a swarm of bees, round the eyes and mouth, in the sunshine. The flies, in fact, while they doubtless serve some pur pose of Providence in removing putrefaction, impreg nating plants, or what not, are one of the scourges of human or animal existence, and seriously detract from the advantages of the country as a place of residence. Yet they never came to New Zealand, notwithstand ing that for a long time communication was very fre quent between Australia and New Zealand, whilst it FA UNA AND FLORA. 89 was very rare between Great Britain and New Zea land. The housefly came out with the emigrant ships, and, like too many of the emigrants, showed a dispo sition to hang about the towns and especially about the public houses. It was soon discovered that the housefly was a most valuable settler, inasmuch as it drove away the native blue-bottle or blowfly, which was a great nuisance with its buzzing and its propen sity forblowing blankets or food. For some reason which is not explained, this large, powerful insect vanished before the comparatively insignificant housefly, which had none of its bad habits. As soon as this was observed, the colonists resorted to all sorts of expedients to spread the houseflies, or carry them to distant settlements or homesteads. There is a story still current in Canterbury of one of the sheep farmers of the mountain district in the south, filling a bottle with flies which he caught laboriously on the windows of the club at Christchurch with the assistance of the waiters, carrying the treasure in his saddle-bag for eighty miles, and then being seen galloping over the plain with the bottle at arm's length, liberating the flies one by one, by raising his thumb from the mouth of the bottle. That was many years ago, and the housefly is now thoroughly acclim atized wherever there are habitations of man ; but it is nowhere a nuisance, as in Australia; and in remote parts, the native blue-bottle still holds its ancient solitary reign. It is difficult to measure the value of the acquisi tion of the house-fly, because its good offices are not altogether perceptible. Another triumph of 90 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. insect acclimatization, however, has been achieved within the last two years, which is of the most con spicuous benefit to the colonists. This is the introduction of the humble or bumble bee. This beautiful creature was unknown in old New Zealand; and the consequence was that red clover had to be resown every year with seed imported from England. There was no insect in the islands which could im pregnate the flower. It was well known that in England the humble bee performs this important function, and great efforts were made to bring it out, for many years in vain. It was easy enough to get plenty of bees in England, and to keep them alive for a time, but they always died in the tropics or else in the cold of the South Seas. At length a small number out of a large shipment reached the colony alive and were set free in a garden at Christchurch. Within a single year they had increased enough to be unmistakably en evidence, and to the delight of the farmers, it was found that the red clover was seeding freely. Great crops of self-sown clover have now been cut, the acclimatized plant, following the ordinary law of nature, being much finer than that grown from imported seed. New Zealand already supplies itself with clover-seed, and, in addi tion to having permanent clover pastures, will soon be in a position to export largely to Australia. The humble bee has spread with extraordinary quickness, and has created a revolution in the vegetable king dom, the extent of which is not yet fully known. It would probably not be too much to say that the introduction of this single insect is worth a million sterling to New Zealand. FAUNA AND FLORA. 91 NEW ZEALAND FLORA. The wild flowers of New Zealand are not very numerous or various, but are extremely beautiful and strikingly peculiar. A careless observer, having no eyes for nature and unfamiliar with the haunts or habits of plants, might suppose the country to be almost flowerless. One of the best known writers on New Zealand in his day, indeed, declared that it had no flower equal to an English dog-rose. But that was so unintelligent a criticism that it has long since passed into a joke. A country might have a very fine flora and yet have no flower equal to a dog-rose in beauty or value, because, for a wild flower, the dog-rose is of a high order ; but, in fact, New Zealand has a great wealth of flowers which not only gratify the senses and fulfil the sweet pur poses of Providence, in their native state, but are deemed of the highest scientific importance. The more conspicuous among them are either quite unique, or else gigantic and strongly individual of their kind. The New Zealand forest presents little of the gor geous splendor of the tropics. It is always cool and sober. There is none of that riotous, reeling pro fusion of color which makes the sylvan scenery of Central America or the Pacific Islands resemble a vast kaleidoscope. A great proportion of the flowers are almost colorless, white or green, or white and green, or pale yellow. Yet even some of these are truly magnificent. Such is the Puawananga {Clematis indivisd), a snow-white clematis, with flowers of eight 92 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. sepals, three or four inches in diameter, and rich, glossy, dark foliage. This plant is universal through out the islands, growing to the tops of the loftiest trees, where it hangs in immense garlands of bloom, or trailing among scrub or shrubs where it is easily gathered. The Pikiarero {Clematis hexasepald), is an other lovely white clematis, growing in the lower woods or along the banks of rivers, and there is also a notable yellow clematis, which the French botanist Raoul strangely miscalled fostida, for it has a delicious jasmin-like scent, by which it may often be discov ered from a long distance in the bush. New Zealand is especially rich in ranunculi, of which it has about twenty species, including the two largest and handsomest in the world. These are the Shepherd's Lily {Ranitnculus Lyalli), and the Kori- kori {R. insignis). The shepherd's lily, also called mountain lily and water lily, grows in the Middle Isl and at an elevation of from iooo to 4000 feet, and where it is found at all it is generally very plentiful. It stands from two to four feet high, with a branched stem carrying perhaps fifty flowers, pure white, with bright yellow center, four inches in diameter, and flat, thick, round foliage nearly as large as that of rhubarb. There are a cream-colored ranunculus (R. Traversii) and a yellow one (R. Godleyanus) very similar to and almost as fine as the Shepherd's Lily. The Korikori is a noble golden flower, a buttercup, in fact, three or four feet high, with im mense trusses of blossoms an inch and a half across. It grows chiefly in the North Island, and the north ern parts of the Middle Island, where it covers the CROSSING THE RIVER TEREMAKAU IN A CAGE ON WIRE ROPES. FAUNA AND FLORA. 93 high mountain sides as soon as the snow disappears in the spring. There is a splendid species of clianthus, the scarlet Kowhai, or Parrot's Bill {Clianthus pitniceus). It was discovered on the East Coast by Solander, the celebrated botanist to Captain Cook's expedition, but it is so rarely seen growing wild that it has been supposed to be an exotic. In fact, however, it is found nowhere else in the world but in New Zea land, where it is now one of the commonest garden shrubs. It grows to a height of about six feet, and has rather a drooping habit, giving the appearance of being weighed down with flowers. The blossom is pure scarlet, about two inches long and shaped like a bird's beak, produced in large clusters hanging under the branches ; and the contrast of scarlet and green, together with the graceful shape of the shrub, makes it one of the most beautiful objects imaginable. The yellow Kowhai {Sophora tetrapterd) is a laburnum varying in size from a shrub to a forest tree forty feet high. It has large bunches of yellow flowers, which have a peculiar elegance, hanging from slender branchlets under the delicate, light- green foliage. Amongst other familiar flowering trees are the Kaikomako {Pennantia corymbosd), with light-green foliage and masses of white blos som, giving the appearance at a little distance of the remains of a heavy snowfall in the midst of the brightness and gladness of full spring ; and the Ran- giora, a strange plant from two or three feet to twenty feet high, with large, flat, darkly veined •94 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. leaves, quite white on the under side, and immense bunches of pale yellow flowers, loading the air with scent. This beautiful shrub springs up everywhere, after the larger forest growth has been removed, and in the early summer the hills and dales and banks of streams in some parts of the country are covered with it for hundreds of miles at a stretch. The New Zealand flax {Phormium. tenax), the commonest swamp plant, and also very common on the hills in some localities is a gigantic lily, with double leaves, not unlike those of the common flag- iris, but from four to eight feet long, growing in immense stools, with a number of flower-stalks, from six to twelve feet high, or even more, bearing a heavy truss of dark-red flowers, with a somewhat sickly scent. The Toi-toi, another very common swamp plant, is a flowering grass, closely resembling the pampas grass of South America, but yellower in color and far more graceful in habit. The Chatham Island Lily, so called, is a forget- me-not {Myosotis giganted) about the size and very much of the habit of rhubarb, but, instead of the colorless flowers of rhubarb, it has splendid spikes of the most brilliant blue flowers, contrasting mag nificently with the noble, dark-green foliage. It is found in swampy situations in the Chatham Islands, 500 miles east of New Zealand, but grows freely on the mainland anywhere near the seashore, and is a much-favored garden flower. The most notable and also the most charac teristic wild flowers of New Zealand remain to be mentioned. These are the Rata, or crimson myr- FA UNA AND FLORA. 95 ties. The commonest of them in the south is in reality a creeper, which, overgrowing forest trees until it has entirely enveloped them with its own voracious stems, ends by killing them and displacing them altogether. After that it stands erect, a hun dred feet high or more, and becomes itself one of the largest and most beautiful forest trees. Its flower is a brilliant crimson, each blossom insignificant in itself, but produced in such masses that it seems to set the tree ablaze, and has, in fact, been mistaken often for the glow of a forest fire. The same plant, when young, may be found flowering at a few feet or a few inches from the ground, a beautiful little shrub, almost exactly like the common myrtle in leaf, but with bunches of slender crimson flowers, the anthers predominating over the sepals, instead of the poetical white flowers of the myrtle of the old world. There are, in fact, several varieties of the Rata, some climbers, some erect, some crimson flowering, some white, but all curious and beautiful. In the northern part of the North Island the commonest species is the Pohtakawa or Christmas tree, varying in size from a shrub to a forest tree, favoring espe cially the rocky margin of inlets of the sea, where it grows almost into the tidal water, — a sombre, sage- green tree, bearing at the end of the branchlets gor geous tufts of crimson flowers, which are just in their glory about Christmas time. The first sight of a large Pohtakawa in full bloom gives a visitor to New Zea land a novel and startling impression of floral beauty. There are two native fuchsias, both very inter esting. The Konini {Fuchsia excorticatd) is a com- 96 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. mon forest tree growing to a height of thirty or forty feet, but generally much smaller, and most familiar as a shrub. The flowers are small and of a dark purple color, shading into green. The fruit is edible and rather pleasant. Then there is a creeping fuchsia, a beautiful little climbing plant, with delicate round leaves, and very pretty light-red flowers, hanging like bells from slender stalks. The fruit is very large, looking like little black plums. It grows freely from seed or cuttings. It may be said of the native wild flowers of this strange country generally that they please more by their outlandish elegance than by their richness of color ; but certainly the Ratas and the Kowhai are among the most superb regalia of the vegetable kingdom. In one of Ruskin's admirable works on art, he analyzes the floral details of a picture, by one of the Old Masters, representing our first parents in Paradise ; and he shows that the flowers, though resembling no flowers known to botanical science, are not impossible flowers, and therefore not inartis tic. They are simply fanciful within the wide limits of nature, not grotesque in the evil sense of being against nature. The New Zealand wild flowers might belong to just such a fanciful Paradise, where Nature has tried to be as unlike her old-world self as possible, and has manifested herself in surprisingly original forms, yet always with the most loyal alle giance to the reign of law. Alice in Wonderland saw nothing odder than the New Zealand flora. The Garden of the Hesperides contained nothing more beautiful. FA UNA AND FLORA. 97 The ferns of New Zealand would need a volume to themselves, to do anything like justice to them in the eyes of the specialist, or even of the general student of botany. The colony is par excellence the land of ferns. They swarm everywhere, even intrud ing themselves into the cities ; and, except in the very driest parts, a considerable collection of them may be made within a few miles of any town. The West Coast of the Middle Island is the best place of all for them. There the whole soil of the forest is clothed with a multitude of varieties of the finest ferns in the world. But there is hardly any part of New Zealand where ferns are not to be found in greater or less profusion, and some of the common est sorts are the most magnificent. The tree-ferns, with a rough black stem and a feathery crest of fronds, reach a height of thirty or forty feet, and are exceedingly abundant. They often survive the rest of the forest, and are transplanted and even ex ported without any difficulty. There is but one palm in New Zealand, the Nikau, but it is a very fine one. It has a singular resem blance to the columns of the ancient Egyptian architecture, which were no doubt suggested by palm trees ; and a grove of Nikau, cleared of other growth, gives the appearance of having been placed there in rows, artificially. The fronds of the Nikau are very slender and graceful, though often of im mense size, and specimens are found in favorable situations towering to a height of fifty feet. It is a slow-growing tree, so that the antiquity of these giants must be very great. The soil is full of the 98 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. seed, and the seedling plants are very elegant. Placed in vases of water or in boxes of earth, they grow freely and are unequalled for drawing-room decora tions or conservatories, especially among masses of ferns. The Nikau carries its flower on a large, fleshy stalk, hanging down at the foot of the fronds ; and the flower is followed by a great bunch of scarlet . berries. It is confined to the North Island, or, if there are any in the Middle Island, they are few and far between. Very like a palm, yet not a palm at all, is the Ti, or Cabbage Tree {Cordylinuin), a somewhat numer ous family of endogenous plants, varying from the size and habit of a tuft of grass to large trees as thick as a man's body, with several branches and great heads of flag-like leaves. The cordylinum is found all over New Zealand, alike on the bare plains and in the densest bush. Some of the varieties are extremely graceful, bearing tall, slender spikes of fairy-like white flowers, strongly scented, erect from the middle of the foliage, after the habit of the aloes and the fourcroya of Central America, to which they are no doubt closely allied. The commonest sort, the familiar cabbage tree of the plains and hills and gardens— so called because the heart of the leaf- bunches is white and edible, like the heart of a cab bage — bears huge bunches of white flowers pendant from the stem, and has a very handsome appearance when in flower. It gives a most delusive impression of tropical vegetation, and is very valuable for that reason in ornamental gardening. It can be trans planted or propagated from cuttings with equal ease, SIR JOHN HALL'S HORORATA SHEEP-STATION, CANTERBURY, MIDDLE ISLAND, Capbage Trees (Cortfyli/ium) in Foreground, FAUNA AND FLORA. 99 and it grows very quickly, even in the most exposed situations. Cattle and sheep nibble it greedily, the pithy wood being sweet and nutritious throughout ; so that wherever stock are, the cabbage tree is cer tain to disappear in time. But it is so well estab lished in public and private gardens and plantations, that it will probably survive many other now com mon forms of native vegetation and long remain the typical New Zealand tree. It has been shown that acclimatized animals, even those brought from very distant and very dissimilar countries, thrive and multiply amazingly in these fer tile and healthful islands. The same cannot be said, so far, of acclimatized plants. Even the grasses need to be constantly renewed, though the acclimatized seed is taking a stronger and stronger hold as time advances and the plants adapt themselves to their natural surroundings. The red clover, as has been said, in discussing the insects, never seeded at all until the humble bee was imported. For the same reason, doubtless, — the absence of impregnating insects, — the English wild flowers have failed to establish themselves here. Daisies and many flowering weeds must be excepted ; but even such hardy flowers as buttercups are not common ; while the whole body of meadow, hedge, roadside, and woodland flowers of the old country are alto gether wanting. The only one of any importance that seems to have taken to the soil is the foxglove {Digitalis); and that only in certain places. The hyacinths, anemones, cowslips, oxlips, primroses, violets, meadowsweet, ragged robin, honeysuckle. ioo NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and a host of others which sweeten and beautify every country-side at home, are unknown in a wild state here, though they are cultivated everywhere in gardens. Many efforts have been made to spread them abroad, but in vain. They either do not propa gate themselves at all, or else they soon dwindle and die out. There is hope, however. During last summer it was found that primroses had seeded themselves for the first time, and were springing up in abund ance in Canterbury. This is attributed to the hum ble bees. A more curious discovery, and one not easily explained, has been made in the North Island. In the spring of 1888, that is to say in September or October, the surveyors of the Wellington and Man- awatu Railway Company, engaged in cutting tracks through the virgin forest on the company's land grant, in preparation for the sale of the land for set tlement, came upon great patches of the large white narcissus covering many acres of ground in a locality where neither man nor beast was known to have ever intruded. The narcissus is indigenous to the South of Europe. It is a hardy bulb, which multiplies itself very quickly under congenial circumstances. It has often been known to spread in an old deserted garden in New Zealand, until it occupied the whole ground to the exclusion of almost everything else. But it is a viscous plant and is eaten greedily by cat tle. It is astonishing, therefore, to find it flourish ing in the remote forest, where there has never been any habitation, and where, if there had been any, there would also have been cattle. It is a mystery of the FAUNA AND FLORA. lor bush which will probably never be cleared up. But it bears eloquent, though silent, testimony that the natural conditions of New Zealand are not in them selves antagonistic to the European flora. A time will probably come when the wild flowers of Great Britain will be as much at home here as the wild birds are. V. THE MAORI PEOPLE. The origin of races has presented in all parts of the world a subject of the deepest interest to the student and a perplexing problem to the philosopher ; and among the better-known branches of the human family, there is none, perhaps, whose origin is more obscure, or at least more disputed, than the Maoris. It is not even known whether they are the aborigi nal inhabitants of New Zealand or not. The com mon belief is that before the Maoris came to these beautiful islands, they were peopled by a different race, of whom the Morioris of the Chatham Islands are the sole surviving remnant. There is, however, very little difference between the Morioris and the Maoris, and the probability is that the Morioris are simply the descendants of some Maori tribe who settled in the Chatham Islands, or took refuge there from tribal foes, at a remote period, and in the lapse of time developed a modified type from local cir cumstances. Certainly the evidences of the exist ence of any people antecedent to the Maoris in New Zealand are either totally absent or else so very slender as scarcely to suffice to support a scientific theory. There are found, from time to time, scat tered over all parts of both islands, the remains of man's habitation, skeletons, stone implements, cook- THE MA OR I PE OPL E. 103 ing places, and the bones of birds used for food. But all these indications may have been left by ancient tribes of Maoris as well as by a race more ancient than the Maoris. Some of the stone imple ments, such as adzes, axes, or chisels, are said to be of a material not to be found in New Zealand, nor known to the Maoris of to-day ; and it has hence been hastily concluded, that these were the imple ments of the ancient race, and that the date of the arrival of the Maoris is marked by the introduction of weapons of jade, the rare and beautiful green stone still found in small quantities, mostly on the West Coast of the Middle Island. A little reflec tion will show, however, that this theory, at all events, is quite untenable, and that, if it be true that the older implements are made of materials not to be found in the country, the more reasonable conclu sion is that the Maoris brought them from some other place, and only disused them when they had discovered and learned how to handle the stones that lay about them. This latter supposition involves the belief that before the Maoris there were no hu man beings in New Zealand, which seems against nature, considering the pre-eminent suitability of the islands for human habitation, and also the fact that all the other islands of the Pacific teemed with population. One explanation of this seeming anomaly is that, up to a very recent geological period, New Zea land was throughout its whole length and breadth more or less in a state of volcanic disturbance ; and that it was therefore practically uninhabitable during 104 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. many ages when other islands of the Pacific were densely peopled. There is not the slightest trace of there ever having been any animal life in New Zealand before the Europeans came, except birds, bats, a doubtful rat, lizards, and a few kinds of insects. By analogy, therefore, it is not improbable, — in fact it is exceedingly probable, — that there was no human life there before the Maoris came. Before the Maoris came. But when did the Maoris come, where did they come from, and is there any reason to believe that they ever " came " at all, any more than the ancient Britons came to Britain, the Indians to North America, or the Chinese to China? Upon all these points, there is a great deal of obscurity and infinite difference of opinion. The Maoris themselves know very little about them selves ; and the Europeans have only very scanty means of learning anything about them except from themselves. The Maoris had no written language, and their legendary lore was studiously confined to the priestly caste, who have , all but passed away. As for their spoken language, it is practically the same as that of countries so far apart and so widely different as Samoa, Tahiti, and Hawaii ; and it is; moreover, like all primitive languages, subject to unlimited variation by the imitation of natural sounds and the adoption of foreign words. The first words which Captain Cook heard the Maoris say, — a threat to slaughter the intruders if they came ashore, — and which he took down phonetically, are intelligible enough to any Maori scholar at this day. But during the hundred and twenty years which have THE MAORI PEOPLE. 105 passed away since then, the Maoris have adopted so many English words that the younger generations actually speak as much English as Maori, without knowing it. Not very much, therefore, is to be gathered from their language as to their origin, and still less as to the date of their arrival in New Zealand. A controversy, which has been briefly alluded to before in this book, is at this moment in progress in learned circles at Wellington upon this very subject. It is so curious, and has so direct a bearing on the antiquity of the Maoris, that it will scarcely be a digression to refer to it somewhat more fully here. There were formerly in New Zealand a race of gigantic wingless birds, called Dinornis by the naturalists and Moa by the Maoris at the present day. These monstrous creatures were something like ostriches or emus, but stood fourteen or fifteen feet high, and had legs of such enormous size and strength that the bones, measuring more than a yard in length and a foot in circumference, were taken at first for the remains of some very large quadruped. These bones are found in surprising quantities in many parts of the islands, sometimes in caves, sometimes buried in the ground. In many instances, the skeleton has been found almost entire, and there are numerous specimens of the skin, the feathers, the stones which the bird swallowed as ostriches do, the eggs, and even the chicks in the eggs. It seems at first sight as if the Moa has only passed away a few years ago, destroyed, like other native birds, by the grass fires of the Pakeha, the 106 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. European. There is, indeed, a belief in many minds that in the unexplored regions of the West Coast, flocks of Moas may still be found roaming the plains or wading in the secluded swamps at the foot of the glaciers. Now, there are innu merable ovens, mounds, cave dwellings, or other such relics of primitive habitation, where cooked Moa bones are found, either with or without stone implements or weapons, showing unmistakably that the inhabitants of New Zealand were formerly Moa hunters, who killed multitudes of these birds and feasted upon them in great gatherings, just as the Maoris feasted later on human flesh, and now feast on fish or pigs. Hence it was hoped that it might be ascertained how long the Moa had been extinct ; or, the antiquity of the Moa remains being fixed, how long as a minimum the Maoris had been in the country. Upon this arose the controversy which is still unfinished. It was contended, on the one hand, that the Moa must have been extinct for an immense time, because there is no allusion to it in any known Maori legend or record of any kind. The most remarkable of such records, and by far the most serviceable for historical purposes, are the genealogies of the tribes, which it was the business of the priests to keep with the utmost minuteness. These genealogies, or family histories, contain an incalculable number and variety of allusions to nat ural objects of all kinds. Everything in the heavens above, the earth beneath, and the waters under the earth, is turned to account for the names, epithets, or attributes of chiefs or chieftainesses ; and it is THE MAORI PEOPLE. 107 altogether against reason to suppose that, whereas every other creature known to the Maoris constantly occurs by name or allusion in these genealogies, the mighty Moa, the only large, formidable, or imposing thing alive, should never once have been alluded to, if it had been known. Yet there are Maori genealo- gies going back nearly 900 years, from which it is contended that the Moa has been extinct for at least. that length of time, and probably for a much greater length of time, since even no tradition of it is men tioned in the most ancient records of a people who- are extremely tenacious of traditions of every sort. The opposite contention is in startling conflict with this. Colonel McDonnell, a great Maori scholar, and one who, perhaps, is more intimately acquainted with the Maoris than any other Pakeha since the death of the celebrated Judge Maning, the original Pakeha- Maori, has come forward with a most astounding testimony. He declares that some years ago, upon this question of the antiquity of Moa bones being discussed among the Maoris at Wanganui, the old chief Kawana Paipai, then supposed to be nearly 100 years old, and since dead, affirmed that in his youth he had seen the Moa and had himself hunted it and eaten it. He described it as a great brown bird, run ning very fast and fighting desperately with its feet, and he said the manner of hunting it was for relays of Maoris, posted at long distances from each other, to drive it from one party to another, so that when one party were tired out, another party took up the running, and so at length the exhausted bird was overtaken and slain. Doubt 108 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. being shown as to whether the venerable chief was not exercising the proverbial privilege of old men to astonish the weak mind of the youngsters, Kawana Paipai undertook to direct some of his hearers to the very spot where he had witnessed a Moa feast ; and a party going thither, and digging, according to his instructions, found, sure enough, many Moa bones and cooking stones, and all the signs of a plentiful banquet. This seems conclusive ; but, to those who know the Maoris, it is very far from being so. It is much easier to believe that Kawana Paipai was romancing, repeating stories or speculations which he had heard from Europeans, and that the scene of his alleged Moa feast was merely one of num berless ancient cooking places which have been discovered and rediscovered over and over again since the European settlement, than to disbelieve the negative testimony of the genealogies. It is in conceivable that, if such creatures as Kawana Paipai described had existed, or such customs had prevailed, within the period of Maori tradition, no reference should have been made to them by the Tohunga, the priests whose lifelong function it was to observe such matters and to relate them incessantly for the very purpose of perpetuating the recollection of them. Would no young chief have been named " The Moa Hunter," no swift-footed Achilles have gained the epithet of " The Runner Down of Moas," no stately maiden have been called " Moa-neck," no stubborn chief defending himself against over- whelming odds have received the distinction of one THE MAORI PEOPLE. 109 who fought like a Moa at bay ? We have innumer able notices of the pigeon, the parrot, the heron, the cormorant, the ground lark, the huia — whose white- tipped feathers are the sign of chieftainship — and of many less familiar or less noticeable birds ; but none of the Moa, which, if it had existed in their time, must have filled the mind of the Maoris more than any other creature in the country. Kawana Paipai's story, therefore, is quite incredible ; and it may be taken for certain that the last Moa was killed and eaten before the earliest tradition of the Maoris commenced. This, however, whilst it assigns a much greater antiquity both to the Maoris and to the Moa than has been ordinarily assigned to them, throws no light either on the origin of the Maoris or on the nationality of the Moa hunters. It merely tends to deepen the obscurity in which both ques tions are enveloped. The ordinarily received tradition among the Maoris is that, many generations ago, exiles from Hawaiki, wherever that may be, arrived upon the shore of the North Island of New Zealand, under the leadership of a chief or heroic personage of some sort named Maui (pronounced Mah-oo-ee, or shortly, Mowee), whence the Maori name of the island, He mca hi no Maui, " A thing fished from the sea by Maui." These pioneers, finding the country a pleasant one, returned to Hawaiki and brought to New Zealand a large number of their people in a fleet of canoes. The names of these canoes are preserved in the Maori legends to this clay, and from them the descent of the various tribes is traced. It may be all a myth, no NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and the "canoes "may simply be a metaphor or some tribal divisions which have long since passed out of memory, — just as we speak of the "house of Israel," "the house of Guelph," and so on. There are, nevertheless, some circumstances which give a vague appearance of literal truth to the story of the migration from Hawaiki. There are certain trees in New Zealand which the Maoris declare are not indigenous but were brought in the canoes from Hawaiki. One of these is the Karaka {Corynocarpus lesvigata), a beautiful laurel-like tree, bearing edible fruit, something like a small yellow plum. This tree is never found in the natural forest, nor at any greater distance from the site of a Maori settlement, present or past, than it might easily spread to by self-sowing or by the agency of birds. Groves of Karaka may be seen round every Maori village, and wherever any considerable number of these trees are seen by them selves, it will be found that the spot was formerly inhabited by Maoris. The Karaka is regarded by the natives as a sacred tree, and it was customary with them to wear wreaths of Karaka leaves when paying ceremonial devotions at the graves of their ancestors. A still more remarkable instance of the same kind is that of the Pomaderris Tainui, so called by the celebrated botanist, Sir James Hector, who discovered it in 1878, between the Mokau and Mohakatina rivers, on the West Coast of the North Island. In his report of the discovery, which has been published by the New Zealand Institute, he says : " The peculiar habit of the tree first attracted THE MA ORI PEOPLE. Ill my attention, having resemblance to a clump of apple trees, so that, at first glance, I thought it to be an old' orchard or cultivation. I afterwards was much interested in hearing from the natives that a peculiar tree was growing on the spot where their ancestors first camped when they abandoned the Tainui canoe, in which they came from Hawaiki, and that this tree had sprung from the rollers or skids, and the green boughs that were brought as flooring for the great canoe. On my doubting this, they offered to take me to the place, and if I could not recognize the tree as being found elsewhere, in New Zealand, they would consider it as a proof that the tradition was correct. To my surprise, they took me to the clump of trees I had previously observed ; and as it is cer tainly quite distinct from any plant hitherto described from New Zealand, the tradition receives a certain amount of confirmation ; and I need hardly point out that if it were true, — and we could hereafter determine the original habitat of this tree, — it might give us a clue to the whereabouts of the mythical Hawaiki or the place whence the Maori originally emigrated to New Zealand." It is an actual fact that Pomaderris Tainui is unknown in New Zealand, except upon about an acre of ground on a spur of the low, sandy hills that extend along the coast of Mokau, where, according to Maori tradition, the canoe Tainui came to shore. It is common to call the Maoris a Malay race, or a Polynesian race, which may mean anything or nothing ; while Mr. Edward Tregear, a very learned ethnologist and philologist, traces them with great 112 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. confidence to an Aryan source, as if they had come from India, and Judge Fenton, an equally weighty authority, has no doubt at all that they are of com mon stock with the ancient Egyptians. A writer in the Saturday Review once undertook to prove, just as convincingly, that they are Anglo-Saxons. Un learned observers, leaving these abstruse questions to the savants, will probably be of opinion that the Maoris are a very mixed race. As a rule they are copper-colored, and of fine stature and physique, as large on the average as the British, but differently proportioned, being longer in the back and loins and shorter -in the legs ; and they. have straight hair. But some of them are very nearly black, with hair almost as woolly as negroes,' and thick lips. Others again, are of a strikingly Jewish or Arab type. Some times, but rarely, are seen full-blood Maoris not much darker than the peoples of Southern Europe, with decidedly red hair. Exaggerated stories have been told in books of travel of their size. They are a burly, large-limbed people, and approach the gigantic in individual instances. Thus, Wahanui, the great chief of Waikato, a very well-known man at this day, is a towering figure, weighing twenty-five stone, and there are many others as large as he. Even Maori women six feet high are not very un common. But neither are they common. Tasman was quite right when, in recording his impressions of the Maoris on the first discovery of the islands in 1642, he described them as being of about the same build as Europeans. It has been remarked as strange that Tasman did A WAHINE WITH HER PIKANINI. From Life. THE MAORI PEOPLE. 113 not notice, what he must have noticed, if he had seen it, that the Maoris were tattooed. Captain Cook mentions this specially, as a striking feature of the Maoris 120 years after Tasman's visit. Tattoo consists of a carving of the face in a kind of pattern, which was indelibly dyed in with the juice of the flax root or some other plant, producing a slaty blue color. Many of the tattoos are a wonderful work of art, the whole surface of the face from the hair to the throat being carved in curves and spirals as correctly drawn as if with a mathematical instru ment, scarcely any particle of the original complex ion being left. These frightful masks, for those are what they look like, are still to be seen quite com monly among the older natives, particularly among the higher chiefs in the North Island ; but tattooing is rapidly going out of fashion, except as to the dye ing of the lips and a few mystic strokes or curves on the chin. The moral and intellectual character of the Maoris has been misrepresented as much as their physique. There can be no doubt that in their natural state, in which Tasman and Captain Cook found them, they were ferocious savages, given over wholly to war, and having scarcely any tendency toward the arts of peace or any form of civilization. Yet even in these matters they were a strange mixture. They made vessels in which a hundred warriors could safely traverse the stormy waters which surround the coasts of New Zealand. They built large temples and houses and stores, which not only showed great constructive ability, but very considerable artistic 114 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. skill. They dressed flax with a dexterity which has never been achieved by machinery. They had meth ods of stone-cutting which are still a mystery to us ; and having no metals, they made shift with stones or shells in a manner which seems altogether incred ible at the present day. The carving of their tem ples or their war-canoes is a marvel of skill, consid ering that the material was wood so hard that it turns the edge of a steel tool. Above all things, they excelled in the military art. Their fortifica tions absolutely defied attack by Europeans, even with artillery ; and their strategy was of a very high order. Yet they had no bow and arrows, no pot tery, and none of a score of other conveniences or contrivances which are to be found among the rud est races of the Pacific. They were cannibals both for the sake of food and from the belief that the courage of the devoured enemy passed with his flesh into the victor. They were ruthlessly and horribly cruel. To sever the jugular vein of a captive, and suck the warm blood till he was dead, was a common practice within the memory and experience of living men. Tortures of an indescribable nature were fre quently resorted to. But the Maoris are not known to have had any poisoned weapons — which are so common among some of the islands of the Pacific — and it is doubtful whether they were acquainted with poison at all. They were also addicted to sensual vices in a degree which can scarcely be explained or believed. Yet they had qualities that counteracted practices which must otherwise have extinguished the race. THE MA ORI PEOPLE. 1 1 5 The Maoris were probably seen at their very worst when the Europeans arrived at the beginning of the present century, when the introduction of firearms had disturbed the balance of power amono- the tribes, when trade had begun to corrupt their savage code of honor, and when drink had inflamed all the worst passions of barbarism. Yet, even in those terrible times, there were not one, or a few, but a great many instances, of highly noble conduct on the part of the Maoris, and it is not too much to say that Europeans who were brave enough to trust them and who treated them with humanity and good faith, had uniformly reason to speak well of them. In short, as soon as the Maoris met with justice, and realized that the Europeans were to be trusted, they began to improve ; and from that time the process of civilization was very rapid, and on the whole very complete. No work on the Maoris would deal at all ade quately with the subject, which should fail to notice with due appreciation the share which the mission aries had in the civilization of the country. It may be said, without any hesitation, that but for the mis sionaries New Zealand would have been a savage country to this day, or else the Maori would have been as extinct as the Moa. It was the missionaries who enabled the most formidable race of savages in the world to be civilized without forfeiting their existence in the process. It should never be forgot ten that in this memorable work missionary zeal outstripped the enthusiasm of discovery and the eagerness of trade. In the year 1796 the ship 116 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. Duff was despatched from the Thames by the London Missionary Society, with thirty missionaries for Tahiti, the Marquesas, and Tonga. The Rever end Samuel Marsden, colonial chaplain at the new settlement at Sydney, and agent of the London Mis sionary Society, first drew the attention of the society to New Zealand in 1809, and in 1814 he went with three other missionaries, with their wives and fami lies, and cast in their lot among the heathen. Hav ing brought with them eight Maoris from Sydney, — for in those days it was quite a common thing for the Maoris to visit Australia, — the missionaries gained a friendly footing on landing ; and on the 22d December, 1814, Mr. Marsden preached his first ser mon at the Bay of Islands from Luke ii. 10 : " Be hold, I bring you glad tidings of great joy." In 1822 the Wesleyan missions were established, and in 1836 Pope Gregory XVI. founded the Roman Catholic missions in New Zealand which have since done such good work. It is to these three, the Anglican, Wes leyan, and Roman Catholic missions, that the civiliz ation of the Maoris is mainly due. There are, perhaps, no people in the world more susceptible of religious influences than the Maoris. Their only notion of religion, before the missionaries came, was a degrading and cruel superstition. The Tohunga, who were oracles and priests in one, domi nated them more completely than the hierarchy have dominated the most priest-ridden countries of the old world. But their influence was all for evil, all for terror and strife and misery and bloodshed. The missionaries, preaching the gospel of peace and love, THE MAORI PEOPLE. 117 and bringing with them a more imposing ritual and great personal superiority, soon succeeded in discred iting and displacing the Tohunga. They gained an enormous influence over the Maoris, and for many years they were by far the greatest power in the coun try. It was they who taught the Maoris that there were other pursuits and nobler pursuits than war, and higher pleasures than the gratification of the senses, and who first prevailed on them to take to agricul ture, to learn to read and write, and to submit them selves to the salutary restraints of a primitive society. To William Williams, the first Bishop of Waiapu, belongs the honor of having translated the first ver sion of the New Testament into Maori. That prob ably molded the destiny of the colony more than any political measure ; for it furnished the first com mon ground upon which the Maoris and the Euro peans could live together in amity and sympathy. In a surprisingly short space of time the mission aries converted the Maoris from many of their barbarous ways to civilized usages ; and settlement, following in due course, found the way already paved for it by the missionaries. It is impossible to give any idea of the hardships, the difficulties, the anxi eties which these good men had to encounter or sus tain ; but their faith never failed them, and in the end it was amply justified. They had their reward ; and even in their own time they received the mes sage, " Well done, ye good and faithful servants." The Maoris are estimated to have numbered about 100,000 at the beginning of the European settlement, say 1820. They had been vastly dimin- 118 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. ished in numbers by internecine strife, shortly before that time ; and by their own wars, by wars with the Europeans, and by contact with alien habits and customs, they have since been reduced by fully one- half. They are officially numbered now at 42,000, and are said to be slightly increasing. t They form now an integral portion of the community. They have four members elected by themselves in the House of Representatives, and have furnished mem bers to several Ministries. There are also three highly respected native members of the Legislative Council ; and native magistrates have jurisdiction in land disputes. They are still the largest land owners in the colony, and many of them possess great wealth and use it well. They are almost entirely an agricultural and pastoral people, breeding horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs, and growing corn and other produce. They have never displayed any aptitude for trade or manufactures ; but they appear to have now settled down into a valuable and progressive section of the rural population of the country, where they are undoubtedly infinitely better off than they ever were under their own chiefs and the barbarous rdgime. What the future of the Maoris may be, no one can foretell with any confidence ; but there is very substantial ground for hoping that the threatened extinction of the race has been averted, and that a modus vivendi has been arrived at by which the Maori may live side by side with his Pakeha fellow- subject and fellow-Christian, with mutual profit and mutual benefit in other than material ways. It is a remarkable and very gratifying fact that there is not, HALF-CASTE GIRLS. From Life. THE MAORI PEOPLE. 119 and has never been, between the European colonists of New Zealand and the Maoris any of that race hatred or antipathy which exists between the Euro peans and the natives of India, between the Ameri cans and the colored people in the United States, or between the British and the Chinese colonists of Australasia. Notwithstanding all their past conflicts and the unsolved problems of the present and future, there is a great deal of solid respect and liking be tween the two races of the Queen's subjects in New Zealand ; and it is the warmest wish of all true lovers of that charming and lavishly endowed coun try that the two races may become one in all respects in which union may be for the benefit of both. It is believed by those best able to judge that the causes of the diminution of the numbers of the Maoris have passed away or are passing away ; and that hence forward they may hold their own and, growing in intelligence, in substance, and in adaptability to changing circumstances, they may become not less prosperous, happy, or useful, as an important factor in an advancing civilization, than they are pro foundly interesting as the survivors of an appalling barbarism. MAORI WEAPONS. — MlJRE. — TAIANA. — QUARTER STAFF. — LIVER CUTTER. VI. THE WHITE POPULATION. It seems almost a misnomer to speak of the white population of New Zealand, because it implies that there is a black or colored population, whereas there is none such considerable enough to be placed in contradistinction from the whites. The country is virtually peopled by Europeans, the most unmixed Anglo-Saxon community out of Great Britain. The English largely predominate over the Scottish and Irish ; and, by all present appearances, the future New Zealand type will be simply English without the local or dialectic distinctions that still exist in the Mother Country. These people have been described very fully in their social and domestic- aspects in an earlier chapter. It is sought here to convey a clear impression of them in their industrial aspect. New Zealand, as has already been explained, is divided naturally into many separate parts, and these divisions have been made all the more marked by the diverse manner of settlement. Thus there are found within the boundaries of this small country communities having some leading characteristics in common, but yet having little or nothing to do with each other, and differing from each other in their mode of life and their industrial circumstances THE WHITE POPULATION. 121 almost as much as the people of different States of Europe do. Climatic and geographical causes have much to do with this. The far north of New Zea land, " North of Auckland," as it is often familiarly called, even in official documents, that great penin sula stretching from Auckland to the North Cape, is semi-tropical, and the people are like unto it. The land for the most part is not suitable for agri culture, or even for pasturage on a large scale. But it is admirably adapted for cottage husbandry. It grows fruit and vegetables in profusion, and can easily be made to supply a sufficiency of grain and fodder. Every year it is becoming more evident that this part of New Zealand is destined to be the home of a large population pursuing the industries of the south of Europe, growing olives and oranges and lemons and grapes, and every sort of semi-trop ical fruit, rearing silkworms, cultivating flowers for perfumes, and, in short, reproducing here, under the most favorable circumstances, the industrial condi tions of Spain, the south of France, Italy, and the Levant. The settlers north of Auckland are at present deemed the most backward in the colony. Yet their lot is by no means an unhappy one. They get a very good living with very little labor ; and any of them who choose to work really hard and undergo self-denial can speedily acquire indepen dence and wealth. Land is very cheap, fuel and water abound ; and all the necessaries of life are Avithin reach of the poorest, while the mildness of the climate makes it no hardship to dispense Avith all but necessaries. A great proportion of the land 122 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. is under forest, and the timber trade is very large and profitable. The shore is everywhere indented by the sea, and the traffic is mainly by water. Thus there is a strong maritime element in the population, many of the young settlers being splendid sailors and expert shipbuilders. Large families are the 'rule, nine, ten, twelve children being quite common, while families of fifteen or even tAventy are not unknown. A few children more or less, in a house hold, make no difference there. The boys, as they grow up, earn their own living, or something more, Avhile the girls do the housework, or pair off with the sons of neighbors. It is a remarkable fact, not fully explained, that more girls than boys are born in the far North, while the reverse is the case in the South. The preponderance of females is already very marked, and will doubtless have much to do with the development of industries suitable for female labor. Next in importance to the timber industry is the flax industry. The flax {Phormium tenax) is a wild plant growing mostly in sAvamps or moist places, a gigantic lily with double, sword-like leaves from four to eight or ten feet long, Avhich consist of an im mensely strong fibre, covered with a fleshy green sheath, and containing a clear, viscid gum between the two blades. The preparation of the flax for market consists simply in scraping off the green covering and getting rid of the gum. This is done by scutching and hackling in a mill. In former times the Maoris, who used flax for every conceiva ble textile purpose, did it by hand, the Avomen hold- THE WHITE POPULATION. 123 ing the leaves on their bare legs and scraping them with shells. The fibre thus produced Avas wonder fully fine and strong ; but the labor Avas excessive. Now, by the use of machinery, great quantities can be prepared in a very little time. It takes six tons of green flax to produce one ton of dressed flax ; so that the labor of cutting and carrying the raw material is considerable. But the profit is sometimes very great. It is estimated that when flax is at ^17 per ton in London it just pays to export it from ; New Zealand. When it is at ^20 it pays well. At present it is at £¦$> and has been quoted at ^40 ; and even the tow, that is, the outside and broken fibre which is scraped off in the process of milling, is now sent home at a good profit. It has recently been discovered that the scutchings of flax, the green covering of the leaves which it is the main object of the miller to get rid of, with such fibre as comes away with it, makes excellent fodder for dairy cattle, giving rich butter all the year round; and some of the poorer class of farmers in the North are doing well by combining dairy farming with flax- milling. It should be said that the flax trade is decidedly precarious, depending, as it does, on the price of manilla hemp and other fibres. The very high price of New Zealand flax, at present, is due to a failure of the manilla crop, or the Mexican sisal crop, the flax being in eager demand as a substitute for manilla or sisal, or an admixture with them, in rope-making, and so on. The French manufactur ers, however, have begun to use phormium lately, quite independently of manilla or sisal, and it has 124 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. also been found very suitable for binding twine for reaping machines, of which an incalculable and rapidly increasing quantity is used in various parts of the Avorld. This industry, therefore, may be deemed to be permanently in the ascendant, and destined to furnish employment for multitudes of people in those parts of New Zealand where it flourishes. The labor at a flax mill is not particularly hard ; but it needs steadiness, patience, care, and a certain degree of skill. A good hand is worth two bad ones, but no one can tell whether a hand will be a good or a bad one till he has been tried. Hence, it is not everybody who can take to this work; but, on the other hand, those who apply themselves to it assiduously are well paid. From £1 to £i io.y. per week, in addition to rations, — that is to say an ample supply of good food, — has been offered lately to competent hands ; and probably the rate of wages may be put down roundly at six or seven shillings a day with fairly light work. The working day is always to be understood to mean eight hours. There are still great tracts of land in New Zealand covered with flax in its Avild state, flax which must be cleared off before the land can be used for farm ing ; and flax land is some of the very best. But, if the demand for dressed flax continues and ex pands, the time will soon arrive when flax will be cultivated. It grows readily from seed or tubers ; and the leaves are fit to cut the third year. Once cut, they take three years more, before they are fit to cut again. The future of the industry is as THE WHITE POPULATION. 125 uncertain as its past has been checkered ; but all present indications certainly seem to place it among the foremost staples of the colony. Another very important industry, which is quite peculiar to the far North of New Zealand, is Kauri ^um digging. Kauri gum is the fossil resin of the Kauri pine {Dammar a Australis), Avhich is found under the ground on the site of ancient forests. There is a great extent of gum land, Avhich is mostly quite worthless for any other purpose, consisting apparently of clay which has been burnt, the proba bility being that in past ages vast forests were de stroyed by fire and the resin melted down into the ground and became deposited in lumps, wherever it happened to settle. This process, in fact, may still be seen going on. The gum fields, though they have been worked for many years, yield as much as ¦ever, and the supply of gum is practically inexhaust ible. It is almost exactly the same thing as amber, which it resembles in appearance so closely that an •ordinary observer could not tell one from the other ; but it is more brittle, less beautiful, being clearer and lighter in color, and much less valuable. It is ¦exported almost exclusively to America, where it is used in the manufacture of varnish. Gum digging is the simplest of all industries. It consists literally of digging in the clay until the lumps of gum are found, and in separating these from the soil and col lecting them in heaps for removal. They vary in size from mere nuts to pieces as large as a man's body. Anybody who has enough strength to handle a shovel can dig gum ; and any one Avho chooses to 126 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. work hard can make a very good living at it. There have been numberless instances of gum diggers accumulating large sums of money, though living apparently in the greatest poverty ; and in times of distress large bodies of workingmen from Auckland have gone out to the gum fields close to town and done very well, though they had no experience at all. When the Minister of Lands Avas on a visit to the Northern settlements toward the end of 1888, he saw small settlers there who supplied themselves with all they wanted in their homes or on their farms by the sale of gum which they dug in their spare time. One of these men got seventy pounds of gum in six hours, which, at 3^. per pound, gave him 1 js. 6d. for three-quarters of a day's work. The agricultural settlers as a rule, however, look down upon gum digging, and, in fact, it has a bad name which it does not deserve. It is no more degrading than any other kind of unskilled labor ; but the very ease with which it is done has attracted to it the most shiftless and vagabond class of the population, many of whom are totally unfit for any other sort of work and Avho take to gum digging as a last re source in order to obtain food and drink, especially the latter. The gum diggers lead a kind of gipsy life, wandering where they please, and many of them have no settled dwelling-place, but camp in the open air or live in tents or rudely built whares or huts. Among them are often men of good birth and edu cation, the waifs and strays of English society, and occasionally a ruined baronet or a broken sprig of THE WHITE POPULATION. 127 nobility may be found expiating his youthful ex. cesses on a gum field, and generally setting the worst possible example of morals and conduct to his companions. Then there are a large and miscella neous assortment of mauvais sujets from the colonial towns, who have sunk from one stage to another until they have reached gum digging as the pursuit requiring the least mental effort and involving the least responsibility. It is needless to say that men like these do no more work than is necessary to satisfy their most pressing wants, or that the money they earn is soon spent. Wherever there is a gum field supporting a large number of diggers, there is sure to be a store where the agents of the merchants buy the gum for cash, or take it in exchange for supplies, and either at the store or in a shanty close by, grog is to be obtained. Formerly, a very large proportion of the proceeds of the gum diggers' labor passed into the grog shops, and the merchants made as large a profit by the sale of grog as by the disposal of gum. A better state of affairs, however, exists now ; and gum digging is largely pursued on a systematic scale, the professional gum diggers understanding their business thoroughly, and knowing both how to apply their labor to the best advantage and how to take care of their money when earned. South of Auckland the country becomes less romantic, perhaps, but decidedly more civilized. Farming,, stock-raising, horse-breeding, and sheep- grazing are carried on largely, together with fruit- groAving, beekeeping, and all the lesser rural indus tries ; and a great deal of substantial prosperity and 128 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. comfort preA^ail. The Maori ownership of a large proportion of this part of New Zealand, however'is not~~ohly a serious obstacle to settlement, but a demoralizing influence even among the Europeans. The Eastern and Southwestern parts of the North Island, comprising the Provincial Districts of Taran aki, Hawkes Bay, and Wellington are more advanced than the North, and colonial life is seen there under more favorable circumstances at present, although, as has been noted before, the future may very prob ably be the heritage of the North. In these parts, the pastoral industries are carried on with Avonder- ful success, and so are all sorts of small farming. Hawkes Bay is a grand sheep country, while the country on the opposite side of the island carries immense herds of cattle. It is from these parts that the frozen meat which has grown into one of the staple exports of the colony mainly comes. This trade furnishes one of the most remarkable: instances of the application of a scientific principle to commerce. Only seven years ago, the sheep- farmers in New Zealand did not know what to- do with their surplus stock. They boiled them down for tallow or they preserved them in tins. But there was often very little profit on either of those processes, and both together failed to- meet the requirements of the case. Meanwhile,. the population of the great cities in Great Britain were in chronic Avant of meat, and espe cially of mutton. One day it was discovered that mutton could be sent from New Zealand to Great Britain in a frozen state Avithout losing any- THE WHITE POPULATION. 129 thing in quality. The process is in principle this : Air, at the ordinary natural temperature, is com pressed to say one-third of its natural bulk by steam power. It is then let into a chamber with walls impervious to heat. The sudden expansion of the air to its natural bulk again, reduces it to one-third of its former temperature, producing an intense cold within the chamber; and this process being con stantly maintained by steam-power, the temperature Avithin the chamber is permanently kept down to a point corresponding to the compression of the air. The carcases of the sheep, ready dressed for sale, are placed in the chamber, where they are frozen quite hard and remain entirely unchanged until they are landed in England. There they are slowly thawed, and are not only as wholesome, but as pala table and as agreeable in appearance, as the best English mutton. The arrival of the first vessel, a sailing ship, with a small cargo of frozen mutton in 1881, created a profound sensation in England, and the most erro neous and absurd notions were entertained regarding it. A violent prejudice was created against the meat, which was declared to be unfit for human food, and to have lost all its nutriment by being frozen. The Duke of St. Albans wrote to the Times protest ing against fresh meat being brought from the Anti podes to compete with English meat. His Grace, however, sought to allay the alarm of the English farmers by assuring them that the thing could not last, that it was merely one of those unnatural ex periments which are often attempted but which al- 13° NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. ways fail, and that, even if the supply could be kept up from NeAv Zealand, which was impossible, the inferiority of the meat would soon render it unsal able. The success of the shipment, nevertheless, was unmistakable, and it was immediately followed by others. Many mistakes were made at first, and heavy losses were incurred, especially by the employ ment of defective machinery on board the ships, and by exposing the meat too long before it was frozen. For a time, the trade appeared to be in a precarious condition, and it looked as if the Duke of St. Albans' prediction would be verified. The colonists, how ever, pushed it on with great enterprise, rectified their mistakes, adopted a variety of improvements, and very soon found out how to organize the export. The solution of all their difficulties, in fact, was found to lie in having freezing works on shore, near the place of shipment or near a railway leading to the place of shipment. At Petone, near Welling ton, from whence the largest export of frozen meat takes place, a hulk is used for this purpose, moored to a wharf close to the slaughter-house. The sheep, which are specially bred and selected for the home market, are taken from adjoining paddocks in per fect condition, skillfully slaughtered, skinned and dressed, and trucked doAvn to the hulk, the whole in terior of which is a freezing chamber, kept at an even temperature by a poAverful steam-engine and a com pressor, as already described. As soon as the hulk is full, she is towed across the harbor to the wharf where the vessel for England is lying, perhaps a mail steamer of 4000 or 5000 tons. The frozen THE WHITE POPULATION. 131 carcases, each encased in a clean calico bag, are promptly transferred from the freezing chamber of the hulk to the freezing chamber of the steamer. In other cases, no hulk is employed, but the freezing works consist of a large building with a chamber, and powerful engines eternally at work. The frozen carcases are passed through small hatches into tightly closed vans and carted or railed alongside the steamer, and at once transferred to her freezing chamber. The whole of the operations are perfectly cleanly and inoffensive, the frozen carcases being as hard as marble and the calico bags as unsoiled as a lady's muslin dress. In this way a large vessel, call ing at two or three ports, will take in a cargo of 20,000 or 30,000 carcases in a feAv days, and land them in London in precisely the same state inAvhich they left the works. Innumerable trials have been made by Avhich it is incontestably proved that the 'most fastidious con noisseur cannot tell New Zealand frozen mutton which has been killed two months from English mutton a Aveek from the daisies, when it comes to table. The result is that the trade has already ex panded enormously. The export this year will probably not be less than a million carcases of mut ton and lamb, besides a very large quantity of beef. It may be asked, How about the Duke of St. Al bans' assurance that the colony could never keep up the supply? How are the flocks affected by this enormous drain of a million sheep and lambs a year, a thing never heard of before in any country in the world ? The reply is, that the flocks are not at all 132 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. diminished by the export. The colony could not afford to have them diminished, because it is to them it looks for its greatest staple of all, its wool. The effect of the export of meat, however, is not to diminish the flocks at all, but merely to keep both the flocks and the pastures up to the highest stand ard of quality by the regular Avithdrawal of the sur plus stock. Not only prime wethers, but ewes and broken -mouthed sheep are worth exporting, and fetch a remunerative price. Thus there is no over stocking of pastures, and there are no old, unprofit able, degenerate flocks. On the other hand, the certainty of the market for mutton has enabled the farmers to put into permanent pasture great tracts of country which they could not afford to deal with before ; and also to resort largely to turnip feeding ; by which means they have immensely increased the carrying capacity of the country. This process can be extended almost incalculably. In a word, New Zealand can already send a million sheep a year to England, as the surplus of her farms, and greatly to their benefit ; and there is every reason to believe that within a very feAv years she -will be able to send two millions a year, and still possess larger flocks and better flocks than ever. The meat is sold wholesale in London at about \\d. per pound ; and at that price, the grower gets from 12.?. to 14-5-. per head, including what he makes by the skin and the offal, which pays very well. It will readily be understood that a trade of this magnitude employs in all its branches — pasturing, cultivation, shepherding, slaughtering, freezing, carry- THE WHITE POPULATION. 133 ing, shipping, fell-mongering, and so on — a very large population. These are distributed among various classes of the community, and include the wealthiest land-owners in the colony, a multitude of smaller land-owners, or leaseholders, and workingmen of all sorts and conditions. The actual freezing of the meat is mostly in the hands of companies who either buy the stock and freeze them and ship them on their own account, or freeze for the growers on a fixed tariff of charges. These companies are all doing very well, the dividend last year being ten per cent, in almost all instances, after making ample reserves. One company, the Gear Company of Wellington, have paid back sixty per cent, of their whole capital in dividends in six years from their start, besides acquiring their land, works, and appliances, Avhich are of great value. The Wellington Refriger- ating Company, another important organization at the capital of New Zealand, are also making great strides. On the whole, there is no industry in the colony which is more uniformly flourishing than the meat industry ; and all the various classes of people concerned in it may be deemed to be very fortu nately situated. Another numerous and thriving class of settlers are the dairy farmers, whose main source of income is keeping milch cows for the manufacture of butter and cheese and dairy-fed bacon and hams. This is an industry for which New Zealand is peculiarly well suited by its temperate and equable climate, its abundant rainfall, and its fertile and wholesome pas tures. Yet it is only within the last two years that 134 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. the vast capabilities of the industry, systematically pursued, have been at all adequately realized. There has for many years past been a large though an intermittent trade with Australia in butter, cheese, bacon, and hams ; but it is only quite recently that the export to Europe has assumed such large pro portions as practically to revolutionize the whole industry. What gives NeAv Zealand the advantage over all other countries is that the cattle do not require housing in Avinter, and that, Avith little or no artificial feeding, they are in profit all the year round. Hence it has been found that a steady supply of butter, equal in quality to the best Danish, and in almost unlimited quantity, can be obtained regardless of seasons. Not less are the capabilities of the colony for producing cheese, from the cheap est and plainest varieties up to kinds and qualities which would satisfy the greatest epicures. In former times New Zealand cheese was an abomination and New Zealand butter a by-Avord, while New Zealand bacon or ham was merely very inferior salt-pork. This was simply because there was no demand, ex cept a very indiscriminating and limited local one. But all that is changed now. There is a constant demand for all these articles at prices that pay for skilled labor and large outlay on mechanical appli ances ; and the better the quality the more profit able is the product. The result is that dairy farming has advanced apace, although it is still, no doubt, in its infancy as to organization and co-operation. The factory system for cheese, and the mechanical sepa rator system for butter, are already firmly established, THE WHITE POPULATION. 135 with excellent results ; and improvements are in progress at this moment, and are leading to others, which will assuredly place the business on an en tirely new footing before very long. So important is this industry deemed, that the Gov ernment employ an expert to go through the various districts where it is carried on, and give the farmers and their employees instructions in the most ap proved methods. The colony, moreover, is regularly visited by agents of the largest European dealers in dairy produce, who, whilst eagerly competing for the purchase of the output of the best farms or factories, are using strenuous and combined efforts to substi tute the scientific sA'stems of other countries, for the rude and wasteful processes hitherto in vogue among the colonists. These agents, who are men of great experience and special knoAvledge, declare that there is no country which has such a future before it for dairy farming as New Zealand, if only the farmers will give over their old, stick-in-the-mud ways, and display the same patience, skill, care, and intelli gence as those with whom they have to compete elsewhere. As one of these gentlemen well put it to a group of farmers one day : " God has done nearly everything for you ; but the little that He has not done, you really must try to learn how to do for yourselves." This the New Zealand dairy farmers and manufacturers are now striving to do, and they are making very satisfactory progress. In a word, the whole trade in dairy produce, from the farming to the shipping, is a totally different thing from what it was two years ago, or even a year ago ; and still 136 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. only the first steps have been taken towards the achievement of Avhat it is capable of becoming. A single steamer for England took 4000 kegs of fresh butter fit for the table of a prince, from one wharf last summer, notwithstanding the enormous drain on the New Zealand dairies during the long and severe drought in Australia. This seems a huge shipment now ; but it is probably child's play to what will be done in the course of a few years. There is a growing opinion, and a Avise one, in the colony, that it is bad policy to divert produce from the English trade for the sake of getting the extravagant prices which are offered in Australia for short and uncertain periods. The agents from Home strongly advise the farmers and manufacturers to lay themselves out patiently and systematically for establishing a large and steady trade with England, where they can always rely on getting a high price for a good sample, and Avhere the demand will increase and the price become more certain as the brands become better known in the market. This trade has already placed a very large rural population in New Zealand in a position of comfort. There are large tracts of country where the people practically live by butter alone. They own or lease little farms of from 20 acres up to 200 or 300 acres, and the only article they have to sell is butter, or milk for butter-making. ^ The condition of these people is peculiar. In one sense they are extremely poor, but in another sense they are very far from poor. They have no capital, and scarcely any money. Many amusing stories are told of their impecuniosity. When they come into ON THE NELSON CREEK WATER-RACE, WEST COAST GOLDFIELDS. Middle Island. THE WHITE POPULATION. 137 town for a holiday, they dissipate on a penny bun and a draught of the local " swipes," and think they have had a great time. If they happen to commit a breach of the police regulations and are fined half-a- crown, they are often quite unable to pay it, and the magistrates habitually ask them how long they will require to earn it, and allow them the time they name. When a demand is made on them for local rates, they " take it out " by doing a day's work or two days' work on the roads. They will do almost anything except pay cash. The doctors and law yers and clergy receive their fees from them in bacon or eggs or firewood or potatoes ; while the system of barter at the stores is an established institution. Clothing, which costs money, is the subject of severe economy, and the whole ward robe of a small farmer and his family could not be assessed above a few shillings. The children, in fact, wear no more clothes than decency de mands. Yet, when it comes to a question of the necessaries of life, it will be found that these people are very well provided. They live in a small, rough hut, but it is weatherproof and warm. They have a good vegetable garden, and often a pretty flower garden as Avell, abundance of fruit, beehives, a potato patch, pumpkins, plenty of fowls, and probably a pig or two. They get any number of eels in the nearest creek, and if near the bush or swamp, eke out their larder with native game. But, in any case, they can get as much beef as they want for a penny a pound, or less, if they choose to take the inferior parts. All this without trenching on the business part of 138 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. the farm, the dairy, at all. . Thus they are rolling in wealth, as regards quantity, quality, and even variety of food. Some little time ago, a deputation of farmers, from just such a district as is here alluded to, came to Wellington to try to interest the mer chants in some sort of organization for the disposal of their produce. They were fine, big, sunbrowned, good-natured, open-hearted fellows, and it seemed ludicrous to hear their complaints of their distressed condition. One of those to whom they applied for help in their proposed venture remarked that he did not think they looked very miserable, for he had never seen a healthier or jollier set of men, " Oh," said one, who was the spokesman of the party, " there's no lack of food up our way. We have enough of that to stand a siege. We don't know what to do with it. But I don't believe we could raise thirty shillings in ready money in the whole 'settlement, and that's the trouble." They all have a horse, or two or three ; for horses cost nothing to buy, or to feed in a rough fashion. It is a much more difficult matter to get a saddle and bridle. But the want of a saddle or even a bridle would not prevent anybody from riding in those parts. Every body can ride bareback, and a flax halter serves for a bridle. The horses are as fat and healthy as the people, though they never get a bite of oats and are never under shelter in their life. Children swarm, and blessed are they who have their quiver full of them, for they all help on the farm, or go out to work for wages at an early age. Those farmers are the most comfortably off, indeed, who have a stout THE WHITE POPULATION. 139 wife and a growing family of boys and girls to look after the cattle and the dairy and take the produce, whatever it may be, to market. The joint labor of such a household is sufficient not only to keep them selves in plenty, but to make some money besides, which a man by himself, or a man and his wife, could not do. Even the poorest of these folks, however, do not know what want is, or what a headache is. They lead a narrow and a purposeless life ; but a fairly happy, and certainly a very harmless, one. Their condition is strikingly similar, in many respects, to that of the peasant farmers of Portugal. The development of the trade in dairy produce with Europe will greatly improve the position of these people, by supplying them with cash for their staple through systematic channels, by encouraging co-operation in factories, and also by affording an in ducement to individual exertion in the improvement of the farms. A more important class of settlers, whom the trade in dairy produce is also calculated largely to affect, are those who are taking up bush country, either from the Crown or from the Wellington and Mana- watu Railway Company, and laying it down to grass. It ma}' be Avorth while to mention here that in New Zealand "bush" always means forest, and large forest. Small forest, or the growth that is left after the large timber has been removed, is called " scrub " ; but " bush " means, in general parlance, the native forest in its virgin state, lofty trees with dense under- groAvth, covering the whole ground. The word " bush " has quite a different meaning in Australia. 14° NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. There it merely means " the country," and it is often applied to tracts of open land without any trees on it at all, or trees so far apart that no clearing is necessary for the purpose of grazing stock. In New Zealand such land would be called plains, or downs, or hills, as the case might be ; and a totally wrong impression would be conveyed, if it were spoken of as " bush." The reason of this is plain enough. The Australian forest is generally open, the eucalyptus and mimosa having little or no un dergrowth, thriving far apart, and coming up again freely after they have been destroyed by fire. The New Zealand forest is quite different. It is naturally as thick as it can possibly be, so thick that neither man nor beast can get through it until tracks are cut ; and, when once it is cleared, there is an end of it. The open land is quite open, or merely covered Avith shrubs ; and the forest land is real jungle. There are no gradations from one to the other ; but bush is bush, and no mistake. When, therefore, bush settlers are spoken of, they are to be under stood to be those who buy or lease forest land, cov ered with heavy timber, and clear it for the purpose of sowing the land with grass for feeding stock, or growing grain or other crops. This class of settlement has received an immense impetus lately through the opening of the country by railways and the improved price of produce. It affords an almost unlimited field for energy and enterprise, because not only is the settler's own labor profitably employed, but any capital that he may have at command can also be turned to good account. The first year's op- THE WHITE POPULATION. 14 1 erations consist entirely of axe-work, bush felling, that is to say, cutting down the trees preparatory to burning. Some settlers, who have no money to spare, do all of this work themselves ; but it is nee: essarily a very slow and arduous process. Others make a contract with regular bushmen, of whom there are plenty to be got at a rate of pay about equivalent to five shillings per man per day of eight hours. It is good economy to pay for having the bush skillfully felled so that it will burn when the time comes, and not leave the land encumbered with half-burnt timber. But many small settlers do all their own clearing, a small space at a time ; and reap their reward in due course. The bush being felled, lies in tangled heaps upon the ground until the hottest and dryest part of the ensuing summer, when the farmer sets fire to it and burns as much of it as he possibly can. There is as much skill in burning as in felling, advantage having to be taken of wind and weather from day to day, and of the lay of the land. The profitableness of the land for a long time afterwards depends on the success of the first burning ; partly because all the timber that is not burnt occupies so much space which is required for grass, and partly because the ashes of the burnt bush form the seed-bed for the future pasture and counteract the sourness of soil which has never seen the sun for ages. The fallen bush having been burnt, the farm presents a most deso late and disheartening appearance. Blackened logs of all shapes and sizes lie scattered among the stumps of the trees to which they formerly belonged. Here 142 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and there are seen immense trunks, ioo feet long, or more, and 10 feet thick, lying prone to earth, or, perhaps, bridging over gullies or other inequalities of the ground. Between them are the remains of a multitude of smaller trees, some lying singly, others in heaps or groups, just as they happened to fall or as the fire happened to leave them more or less un- burnt. The intervening ground is all scorched a brick-red or covered with ashes of all colors, or charred wood. The logs and the earth continue to smoulder for a long time after the burning in chief is over, and, in fact, do not cease smouldering until the winter sets in. The whole neighborhood is en veloped in thick, pungent smoke, and even when there is no longer much smoke visible at a distance, the eyes and lungs suffer from it near the logs down the wind. Not a particle of vegetation is to be seen, nor does it look as if there ever would be any vege tation there again. This seeming desolation, how ever, is merely the prelude to one of nature's brightest scenes. Even if the land is left to itself, the rains will not long have extinguished the last smouldering embers and soaked the ashy surface of the soil, but there will spring up, as if by magic, great star-like milky thistles, smooth, brown stalks of fern, rank grasses, and a host of wild plants or weeds of some sort. But the careful farmer antici pates these by sowing grass-seed, rye-grass, cocks foot, cow-grass, clover, or whatever it may be — sometimes all of them together — broadcast among the ashes ; and when the spring time-comes, or even before the spring, in mild seasons, the Avhole sur- THE WHITE POPULATION. 143 face of the ground is occupied by a luxuriant growth. This is, virtually, the whole process of bush farming. After that, the farmer lets the logs decay where they lie, only, perhaps, sawing up or burning those which are most in the way, when he has spare time ; and his Avhole attention is given to his fences, the ar rangements of his farmstead, the rearing of his stock, the dairying, and so on. His troubles about his land are at end when he has got it sown down to grass and the pasture is well established. This, generally speaking, occupies three years from the time when the axe is first laid to the bush. In many instances, nevertheless, the bush farmer, by good luck in his seasons, or other favorable circumstances, gets enough grass in two years to keep a number of stock ; and there are localities where, in a single year from going on the land, the farmers have had a plentiful growth of self-sown grass in place of heavy bush. The New Zealand Government have caused to be published an excellent illustrated book on grasses and farming plants suitable to the colony, for the in formation of settlers. Recently, a bush farmer wrote to the Minister of Lands for a copy of this book, and, having received it, sent to the Minister in return a small sheaf of the various grasses he had been able to identify and gather on his land, then just a year from the bush. They included six or seven valuable kinds, and all were of great size, quite equal to the picked specimens of which drawings are given in the seedsmen's catalogues. The Minister kept the sheaf in his office for exhibition to persons inquiring for 144 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. land, as an encouragement to them to go and do likeAvise. This, of course, was an exceptional case ; but it may be said broadly, that any man who chooses to spend three years in breaking in a bush farm in the North Island of New Zealand, having selected his land with reasonable judgment, will have a valuable property under his feet, and one which will make him independent of all the world, if he be not encumbered with debt to start with. Almost all this land is purchased, whether from the Crown or private owners, on what are called long terms. That is to say, the purchaser has not to pay the capital cost of the land until he has got it into profit. He pays a deposit of 10 percent., and either pays interest on the remainder, equivalent to a low rent, or else has three years given him to' pay it in, without any interest. By this method, he has the use of his capital, if he have any, or at all e\'ents is not required to find any money, beyond the deposit to clinch the bargain, until he begins to get an income from the land. After that, with anything like good fortune, he may easily pay off the whole of the purchase- money in a couple of years, out of the proceeds of the land itself. Before many years are over — and time passes quickly amid the occupations and exer tions of making a new place — he finds himself the owner of a beautiful and profitable little estate, grow ing more productive every year, and involving very little anxiety or care of any sort, in the management. He has a comfortable, if not a luxurious', home. His family are abundantly provided for. If he have sons, they are his partners and fellow-workers; and if he THE WHITE POPULATION. 145 wrant an investment for his savings, he cannot do better than buy land in the neighborhood similar to his own farm when he started, and help his sons to break it in, as he broke in his. This is a very common practice ; and at every land sale it is be coming more and more noticeable that the lots are purchased by the sons or relatives of settlers who have gained their experience on the spot. There is no denying that the life of a bush settler is very hard, especially for the first three years. He has to do a long and severe day's work every day, to content himself with a rough dwelling and simple fare, and to remain almost excluded from society for many months together. He has to pursue this life patiently, day after day, month after month, year after year, without seeing any immediate return for his toil and hardships, and perhaps without being able to see how he is ever to overcome the formida ble obstacles which nature has placed in hisAvay. It is easy to understand a faint-hearted or irresolute man shrinking from such a strain alike on his physi cal energies and on his faculty of hope. A great many such men have tried the life, and found it too much for them. They have either abandoned the struggle altogether or sunk to the condition of laborers for wages. It is, indeed, only a life for men with a stout heart in a stout body. For such as these, hoAvever, it has many compensations for its drawbacks even from the outset ; and there are not a few bush settlers who declare that they would not exchange their life for any other. To begin with, the mere animal necessaries are abundantly provided, 146 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. as has already been explained, and the cost of living- is so very small that the settler is'fredd from those petty cares Avhich constitute so large a part of the troubles of life in town. Among many such testimonies, there has been furnished, for the information of the author of this book, an account of the expenditure of two young men who may be called typical bush settlers, in the Rangitikei district, Province of Wellington, and who have met Avith great success, being now rich men, by their own unaided exertions, one oc cupying an important public position. During their first two years, when they were actually working with their own axe to break down the bush, their whole outlay for stores of every kind was less than ^34 for the year, or a little over £16 each. This included flour and tobacco, but not grog, of which they had none. They lived well, not stinting them selves at all, but at the same time not wasting anything; and they found this expenditure suffi cient. This is not at all an exceptional case, but, on the contrary, it may be set down as a general rule, that steady men with a little knowledge of bush economy can get on very Avell on an outlay of about six or seven shillings a week. This gives a great independence to the life, which is in itself a singular charm. Then the regular labor is very healthful and invigorating, and the bush settler rarely if ever knows what it is to feel ill or in low spirits. He has little leisure, but it is his own ; and if he is of a lit erary turn, he may get through a good deal of read ing in the evening. Many a bush wizard, of very THE WHITE POPULA TION. 147 rude exterior, contains a good shelf of books, and among the inmates, as rude in exterior as their dwelling, are to be found men of much mental cul ture and a very high order of intelligence. The equality which prevails in the bush is by no means a bad feature of it. The settler has no servants, but neither has he any masters. Wealth or poverty goes for very little there ; but every man is his own mas ter within his little sphere, and he is most respected who most respects himself and best does his duty toward his neighbor. There is a great deal of kind ness and cordiality among neighbors — often living many miles apart — in the bush, and there is literally no limit to their hospitality or to their devotion to one another in any emergency or distress. There is a great attraction, also, in the ancient forest itself, and all the beauties of nature by which the settler is surrounded ; and it is almost pathetic to hear the tone of enthusiasm in which these Avorthy people speak of their humble homes and wild life, and to observe their indifference or repugnance to the hum drum conditions, as they deem them, of town life. The bush is to them what the desert is to the Bedouin, and of them it may truly be said in the words of the American poet : * * * Alike are they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy the vice of republics. Neither locks have they to their doors, nor bars to their windows ; But their dwellings are open as day and the hearts of the owners ; There, the richest is poor, and the poorest lives in abundance. The greatest solatium of the bush settler, however, for any drawbacks his mode of life may have, is the certainty of doing well if he only have courage to go 148 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. through with his undertaking. These bush farms are among the snuggest properties in the colony, and many a man Avho went in with nothing or next to nothing, and worked hard for a few years, without feeling that he was doing any great thing, is now the possessor of a valuable estate from which he derives an annual income equal to all the capital he ever had. While he is living, his property is growing. Each succeeding year finds him richer than the last, with fewer difficulties to be overcome ; and by the time he has reached middle life, and fairly broken in his country, he is in an exceptionally independent and comfortable position. It is in bush settlement, and in this alone, that the hardy, healthful, hopeful life of the pioneers is still to be seen in its primitive integrity. Often is heard among the new arrivals, or among disappointed colonists, especially in the towns, the complaint that there are no longer the chances of success which the early settlers enjoyed. Nothing could be more untrue. The situation of.the bush settlers to-day does not differ at all from that of the first people who came to the colony ; ex cept in the improved security of life and property, the greater cheapness of all sorts of necessaries and comforts, the incalculable progress in means of ac cess, and the existence of steady and profitable mar kets which Avere not dreamt of in the early days. It is not necessary to describe in detail the various sections of the agricultural and pastoral population of the colony, whose habits of life differ but little from those of the similar or analogous classes in other countries. All descriptions which represent THE WHITE POPULATION. 149 country life in New Zealand as perilous, romantic, adventurous, or outlandish, are quite misleading. There is no such thing in the colony, except in the most isolated or uninhabitable parts, where a few solitary explorers or prospectors maybe found living the life of a hermit. Tourists or other visitors, who wish to see rough country and experience hard living, can get as much of both as they please with out the slightest difficulty. They may run as much risk as they like of being starved or frozen to death, or of being drowned or breaking their necks, or being burnt in a volcano or boiled in a hot spring, or of otherwise obtaining veracious material for thrill ing accounts of their travels when they get home. A considerable portion of New Zealand is still unex plored, and every year wonderful exploits of courage, endurance, and adventure are performed by those anxious to be the first, or among the first, to set foot in these unknown and profoundly interesting re gions. Unhappily, many valuable lives are lost in this way. Only Avithin the last few months one of the Professors of the Otago University, spending his summer holiday in the effort to reach the great Sutherland Fall, the second highest in the Avorld, got separated from his companions, was overtaken by a storm, and has never since been heard of. It may be half a century before his skeleton will be found. That is a genuine tragedy of New Zealand adven ture. It also has an abundantly comic side, as num berless incidents in a trip undertaken by a party of jolly fellows, especially " neAV chums," will testify. The serio-comic element may be discerned in such 150 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. stories as that of the man who, on an exploring journey with no companion but his dog, found him self absolutely Avithout food when still three days from his destination. The story — his own story — goes, that having withstood the pangs of hunger as long as he could, he cut off the dog's tail, broiled it, ate it, and gave the bone to the dog. Thus sustained, the pair marched gayly into the camp they were making for, on the day following their ingenious meal. Another such story, and a perfectly true one, is that of a party sent to ascertain the fate of a re mote expedition, Avho having had literally nothing to eat for six weeks but fish and potatoes, whilst under going enormous exertion, experienced a ravenous craving for some kind of fatty matter, for want of which they seemed to be like to die. Arriving at a hut where some stores had been deposited, they found, to their intense delight, a box of tallow can dles, which they divided impartially, and deliberately devoured to the last stump before doing anything else. Of this sort of adventure there is an endless variety to be had in NeAv Zealand by those who choose to go to the right' places for it, and these are never very far off. But it is sheer fiction to color the ordinary life of any class of the settlers by such narratives. It is not uncommon to find station life in New Zealand, that is to say, life on a sheep-run, described, especially by ladies, in this romantic strain ; but, in reality, station life has nothing of the kind in it. There is an amusing story told of a " neAv chum," a young man from England with nothing but his IN THE SOUTHERN ALPS. THE WHITE POPULATION. 15 r clothes and his inexperience, who on arriving at Christchurch went all round the town asking for employment as a clerk. Coming back to his hotel at night, he met a shipmate who had been similarly engaged, with equally bad luck. " Well, how have you got on ? " inquired the latter. " Oh, I haven't got on at all," was the reply, " but I shall have an other try to-morrow, and if I can't get a billet any where I suppose there'll be nothing for it but to take to this squatting." What the poor lad imagined " this squatting " to be, is not recorded, but he doubtless soon found out what it actually is. The squatters, that is to say, the pastoral tenants of the Crown, who lease the grazing of the hill country from the Government, and the larger sheep-farmers generally, are in fact the nearest approach to a country gentry that the colony possesses. Sheep- farming on a large scale cannot possibly be carried on nowadays without large capital, and sheep-farm ing on a small scale, in hill country at all events, is a most precarious and unprofitable affair. Hence, the runholder or large sheep-farmer is either a rich man himself or represents large moneyed interests. In too many instances, unfortunately, his run, flocks, homestead and all, are so heavily encumbered that he is little more than the agent of a bank or a loan company. But even in those instances he is exter nally a man of wealth and position, because his finan cial principals must supply sufficient funds to carry on the business efficiently, and there is always the chance of a rise in the price of wool, or of stock, or some other favorable turn of events, enabling him to 152 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. get rid of his liability. Thus, in any case, " the station " is the manor-house of a large extent of country, and the life of the place is thoroughly sys tematized for the business of sheep-farming. Most of these station houses are very comfortable homes, not a few having pretensions to splendor and differ ing little from country-houses in England or Scot land. They generally have fine gardens and plan tations, for land, water, and labor are there in plenty. Then there are always a number of horses and coavs and dogs ; and all the accompaniments of an easj', though industrious and generally economical coun try life. The sheep-farmer is very often an English gentle man of good family, with a wife of the same class, and a number of sons and daughters not to be dis tinguished from the children of a squire or a clergy man in any county in England. One or two of the sons, perhaps, are at Oxford or Cambridge, or are in some profession in town in the colony, whilst others are helping in the management of the station. The house is gracefully furnished and provided Avith all the refinements of an English home, and all the domestic arrangements are to match. In some sheep-farmers' houses there are billiard-rooms and men-servants, and every one dresses for dinner ; but these are quite the exception. On many stations, where, perhaps, the farmer is a self-made man, hav ing been a manager or a shepherd who has saved money and got on in the world, the minage is very homely, but generally very comfortable ; and in all cases, almost without exception, even in very out-of- THE WHITE POPULATION. 153 the-way places, the life is very regular and decorous, the old rowdy days being entirely a thing of the past. The permanent hands on a station are simply well-paid farm-servants, and are usually very capable, trustworthy, indefatigable men, often men of strong individuality and noble characteristics, worthy of the highest respect. They live in the farmer's house, or in small houses about the homestead, or in a com mon building set apart for them in a convenient situation, the desire being, on well-ordered stations, to afford both the masters and the men as much privacy as possible. The men earn good wages and have a maximum of personal liberty. They usually own their own horses and dogs, and do a little trade on their own account in horseflesh, of which they are often excellent judges ; and many of them buy land either from their employer or from the Crown, and become in time considerable proprietors and em ployers of labor in their turn. It is quite a common thing for these rough-looking men, who seem to live on horseback or among the sheep, and to have no ideas apart from them, to have ^"iooo or more in the bank, or to own a farm yielding as large an income as their wages amount to, or more. There is not the least objection to their being married, but, on the contrary, the more family men there are on the station the better the owner is pleased, generally speaking. The shepherds lead a harder and more lonely life ; but they are first-rate men, nearly all Scotchmen, and usually Highlanders, with an extra ordinary knowledge of sheep and of country and -weather ; and absolutely to be depended on to do 154 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. their duty under any circumstances, even to the risking of their own life. They live, in many cases, in solitary huts away on the mountains in exposed situations, where it is difficult to provide any com forts ; but they make the best of it and manage very well on the whole ; and, as they get good wages and are at no expense, they easily save money and acquire an independence. The type so powerfully described by Christopher North is constantly to be met with in New Zealand, and is rather the rule than the exception. The temporary hands, or traveling labor, as they are called, on sheep stations, are quite a different set of men. These consist of shearers and others whose assistance is needed only for a few weeks at the busiest time of year, that is, in the middle of summer. They form a distinct branch of the human family, not by any means unlike the gipsies. They are, in fact, true nomads, and a large proportion of them do not belong to New Zealand at all, but come from the most distant parts of Australia. That is to say, they folloAv the shearing, Avherever it is going on, beginning, perhaps, in the tropical regions of Queensland, where the shearing is earliest, and coming on from station to station through New South Wales and Victoria, earning a good deal of money as they go, and then shipping to New Zea land in time for the shearing there, and taking the stations through in their regular order, year after year. They get from \bs. to £i per hundred sheep. and all found, and a good hand can shear ioo sheep in a day. Shearing cannot be done in wet weather, THE WHITE POPULA TION. 155 so that they often lose a good deal of time ; but the sheep-farmer has to keep them as long as they are on the place. They live in, a large building called " the men's hut," where they sleep in bunks against the wall, and take their meals at a rough table in the middle of the room ; the food consisting of mutton, bread, potatoes, butter or jam, tea and sugar, all ad lib., three times a day. A cook is employed spec ially for the shearers, and if he happen to be an ex pert, he gives them a capital table out of the ample and excellent materials at hand. The shearers earn their money honestly. They work tremendously hard while they are at it, and as a rule are conscien tiously mindful of their employer's interests. But they are queer characters, and, from a sort of conceit or vanity of each other's opinion, they like to make themselves out queerer and worse than they are. They are extremely mixed, including every descrip tion of mankind, from the broken-down guardsman or cavalry officer, or the luckless younger son of aristocratic parents, down to the very dregs of the colonial democracy. The dialect of every county in England or Ireland, and frequently the cockney, may be detected among them, and they also include a large number of foreigners and even men of color. Each has his own history and his own individuality, both curious enough in most cases ; but their ex posed life, their hard labor, and their squalid dress give them a sameness of appearance that altogether belies their real character. Many of them are very good felloAvs, honest and manly, and generous to a fault ; but with few exceptions they are very rough, 156 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. and some of them are great blackguards. They use shocking language, and seem to take a pride in rivaling one another in the ingenuity and elaborate ness of their oaths and epithets. Their stories — and they spend the whole of their leisure in spinning yarns — are totally unfit for ears polite, though often exceedingly amusing. They have, moreover, a posi tively aggressive air of independence and of antipathy to all conventionality, — especially to " the blooming swells," as they call the upper classes, — which is partly genuine and partly affected. Many of them, and those the leaders of opinion among them, are social outcasts and utter Bohemians ; and it is these also who set the example and keep up the tradition of class animosity. There could hardly be a more curious study of life than is to be found in a shearers' hut when the men are enjoying their dolce far niente, round the log fire, unrestrained by the presence of any one not of the cloth. There is generally a musician in every party of shearers, and a concertina or a violin, or at least a tin whistle, is a sine qud non in the hut. Then a good many of them sing splendidly while not a few are rare reciters, with a large repertoire of stock pieces, the shearer's library almost al ways including " The Young Reciter," or " Penny Readings," or " Half Hours with the Best Authors," or some such collection ; while the constant habit of reciting from memory gives them great fluency and considerable oratorical power. When these com paratively intellectual recreations fail, the shearers let themselves out in the way of " capping yarns," THE HONORABLE ROBERT CAMPBELL'S OTEKEIKE STATION, NORTH OTAGO. THE WHITE POPULATION. 157 that is, trying who can tell the most outrageously improbable, indecent, or revolting story ; or they discuss politics, society, or even religion with the utmost freedom and with extraordinary animation ; and it is astonishing what knowledge and ability many of them display in these impromptu debates. Occasionally, but not often, they lose their temper and get to high words or even blows ; but as there is nothing stronger than tea as black as ink drunk while shearing is going on, the evening generally ends by all hands parting good friends and turning peacefully into their bunks, whence presently issue stentorian snores which last without intermission till daylight. The shearers might fittingly be de scribed by the author of Gil Bias with illustrations by Gustave Dore. By degrees, as the country becomes more settled, and the agricultural area, with its domestic popula tion, encroaches on the pastoral, this " traveling labor " diminishes. Farmers' sons supply the place of the nomadic shearers, and all the old wildness passes away. The wages paid for shearing, amount ing often to a comfortable provision for a laboring man for half the year, enter into the economy of the farm, instead of being " knocked down " in a few days' debauch at thenearest accommodation house, and the relations of employer and employed become those of neighbors engaged in kindred industries, instead of those of natural enemies with only a slen der bond of temporary self-interest between them. Captain Wolseley, brother of the celebrated soldier, a runholder in New South Wales, where the shearers 158 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. are a standing menace to the sheep-farming industry by their unreasonable demands, has now invented a sheep-shearing machine, which requires no skill ; and this is joining with other causes and influ ences to make the old-fashioned shearer a crea ture of the past. It will be a happy day for New Zealand when the traveling labor vanishes alto gether, and when all the work of the country is done by the settled population. The traveling labor, though a necessity in the early stage of colonization, is at the best a necessary evil, and it becomes an unmitigated nuisance as soon as it ceases to be necessary. Some idea of what a burden it is upon the employers and also of what is called hospitality in a colony, may be gathered from the fact that at one sheep station in Canterbury last year no feAver than 1500 men obtained supper, bed, and breakfast, for which they paid not a farthing and did no work, but which they claimed as their right as traveling "laborers." The waste of industrial energy that is involved in the existence of so large a wandering population is obvious. There is no necessity to describe in detail the occu pations or conditions of life of the ordinary agricul tural population, because they differ but little from those of the agricultural population in other countries, except that on the whole, perhaps, the farm laborers are better off in New Zealand than in any other country. It is not easy, in fact, to give a clear notion at one vieAv of the agricultural community in a coun try where the conditions are so diverse, according to the size of the holding, the nature of the soil, and a THE WHITE POPULATION. 159 multitude of other circumstances. Here may be a farmer with 10,000 or 15,000 acres of freehold, carry ing enormous crops of corn or roots — fields of 200, 400, even 600 acres are not uncommon, and one farmer in Canterbury has been knoAvn to reap 5000 acres of wheat — feeding thousands of cattle, horses, sheep and pigs, and possessing sheds full of agricul tural machinery like the annex of an exhibition. Here, not a mile from his boundary fence, may be a group of " cockatoos," as the cottage farmers are called, each on a tiny holding of twenty acres or less, living in a humble " lean-to," raising potatoes or a, patch of oats, keeping bees and fowls, and eking out a good enough living by working for his wealthy neighbor. Next to these may be- quite a different sort of farm, 400 or 500 acres perhaps, including a bit of sandy river-bed, where a man with a few hun dreds of capital and a stalwart family carries on mixed farming, wheat, oats, roots, hay, cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs, without employing any labor but what sleeps under his roof. It may be said of these that the hardest working, and the best off, are the cockatoos. It is a most noticeable feature of the colony that the laboring class who, as long as they are on Avages, scrupulously observe their eight hours a day, and have even agitated to make it illegal for any man to work for wages longer, set no limits on their exertions when working for themselves. Once on a bit of land of their own, they toil early and late, and stint and save and contrive, so as to make the very most of their little estate, and gain enough money to enlarge their boundaries. The conse- 160 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. quence is, that though they made no show of wealth, they are most of them in very good circumstances ; and nothing strikes colonists with greater wonder, in visiting the old country, than to see agricultural la borers grinding all their life on starvation wages, with absolutely no prospect for their old age but the work-house, who by the same outlay of labor in New Zealand might live in abundance and make them selves independent in a few years. Between the chawbacon of the midland counties and the colonial cockatoo there is as great a difference as between the ragged starveling of the East End of London and the comfortable mechanic of the colonial towns. Yet there is no reason in the world why any number of chawbacons should not convert themselves into cockatoos, greatly to their own and the colony's wel fare, if they could but be brought to understand it. The only important section of the industrial popu lation remaining to be described are the miners. These are really the flower of the working-men of the colony, only men of good physique and equally good morale being equal to the demands of a mining life. The chief mineral industry of New Zealand is -g^ld__mining, gold being tound in greater or less quantities in almost every part of the islands where it is geologically possible. It has even been found abundantly in localities where, until it was found, the geologists declared most emphatically that it never could, should, would, or ought to be found. More over, it is found under all sorts of conditions ; pure, in lumps, loose among the gravel ; in scales or par ticles in the sand of rivers ; in nuggets or rough Mining and Hydraulic Machinery.— Thames Goldfields. Grauamstown. — Thames. THE WHITE POPULATION. 161 pieces in holes among stones or huge boulders ; mixed pell-mell with the spoil of rivers backed up by the sea ; in fine dust, mixed with black steel sand, throAvn up on the beach from the bottom of the sea, during storms ; in veins, or specks or needles, in the very substance of quartz rocks, often invisible to the naked eye when most plentiful ; in ragged patches in rotten stone, crumbling to the touch ; combined with silver and all sorts of other minerals ; lying on the surface of the ground as if somebody had just spilt it thereout of his pocket ; fixed in the rifts of rocky gorges of thundering torrents ; cropping out in rough ridges of quartz reefs on the tops of hills ; hidden half a mile into the bowels of a mountain and five hundred feet below the surface of the earth. The distribution of gold is one of the most puzzling phenomena of nature ; and noAvhere is it more remarkable than in New Zealand. The most experienced miners of California and Australia say they never saw gold turning up so capriciously as it does here, or under conditions so baffling to all received rules. It is not a very uncommon thing for pieces of gold to be found in the crops of fowls, especi ally ducks, shoveling about for food at the bottom of creeks ; and quite a good " prospect " has been got among the ballast of a ship which had been loaded from a shingle beach many miles from any known auri ferous indications. In short, it is not safe to say of any spot in New Zealand that gold may not be found there, and there are few parts where, by diligent search and hard work, a skilled miner could not get enough for a subsistence. Skilled miners, however, never 162 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. waste their time and labor on places where only " the color " is to be got. They know by certain indi cations Avhere a payable gold-field is likely to exist, and there they congregate and pursue their calling as steadily as any other industrial class. Payable gold may be said roughly to be gold which gives the miner a minimum of £i \os. per week ; and any ground which is found on fair trial to yield less than that, is soon abandoned to Chinamen, new chums, or other "duffers." Gold-mining may be divided broadly into quartz reefing and alluvial digging; and the men employed in these tAvo are almost as different as the work in which they are engaged. Quartz reefing consists of obtaining gold-bearing stone from the strata in which it lies among the natural rocks, and crushing it in batteries by water or steam power, to extract the gold from the substances with which it is mechanically or chemically combined. A gold mine of this kind is a permanent affair, taking, perhaps, 10, 20, or 30 years to work out, the gold-bearing strata being approached by lateral tunnels or vertical shafts, and then Avorked by stopes, that is to say, narrow passages following the auriferous veins in any direction they may happen to take. The quartz may be described as a crystalline stone not unlike marble, varying from pure white to gray, brown, blue, black, or a mottle of all of these, and holding the eold in its substance in particles varying in size from the finest dust to irregular pieces forming a third or half of the stone. It is broken out from its natural position in the THE WHITE POPULATION. 163 mine Avith a pick-axe and carried in small trucks through the tunnels or in buckets up the shafts, and so to the battery where it is to be crushed. In some mines, diamond drills are employed for finding the position of the gold-bearing strata, and fine hydraulic machinery for gaining access to them, and the plant is very large and costly. All such mines as these are the property of companies possessing a consider able capital, and the miners who do the actual work are employed at wages under a manager, though many of them own shares themselves. They work in shifts of eight hours, and receive an average wage of nine shillings a day. They are men of powerful physique and great intelligence, their Avork involving no slight responsibility and technical skill, as well as much nerve and endurance. A large proportion of the quartz miners in New Zealand are Cornishmen, and there are places where the Cornish dialect is spoken almost universally. There are no finer body of men in the world than these Cornish miners. They are upright and straightforward in all their dealings, and, though singularly independent and self-reliant, courteous and of unlimited hos pitality in their homely way. They are very clan nish and are immovable in their friendships, and for this reason they constitute a considerable power wherever a large number of them are found together. They are all Protestants, most of them dissenters, and many are men of strong religious feeling. Cor nishmen are much sought after for employment in mines where there is much machinery, or where exceptional carefulness, trustworthiness, and intelli- 164 NEW ZEALAND AFTER FIFTY YEARS. gence are required. They are saving in their habits, and frequently become possessed of consider able wealth. Quite a distinct type from these are the ^Irish miners, who form nearly half the population of the gold-fields. They are nearly all Catholics and ex tremely attached to their church, which, in most of the smaller mining centers, has the whole field to it self. They also have great physical strength, and they are chiefly employed in sheer labor not requir ing much mental capacity. They keep very much to themselves, and it is not uncommon to find a large mine entirely owned and worked by Irishmen, all from the same part of Ireland, and all displaying a strong family likeness to one another. They do very well, and easily save money if they choose to exercise a moderate degree of self-denial. Not a few of them acquire a fortune and become mine owners or invest in property, especially public houses, nearly all of which on the gold fields are kept by Irishmen. Many mining villages are so exceeding- ingly Irish in population, dialect, and mode of life, that a visitor might easily fancy himself in the Emerald Isle itself. The difference is that there is no poverty and no distinction of class, but all are comfortably off and all are equal. The Irish miners, though rather given to faction fights and always ready for a bit of a shindy at election times or on other exciting occasions, such as a wedding or a funeral, are extremely good-natured and obliging, and full of the national humor and light-heartedness. On the whole, perhaps, there is no part of the world The Big Pump. — Thames Goldfields. - ™*~ -d*^ \ ' — '~t'-*^3h^*wr Ji p£fe ''^TuUBllfel ':PlW--'' Fjti HfflBH ¦- • ,r^^®fci N^PJj ¦j»r'''K' ,mairiro, Waikouati, Waimate, Waipawa, Waipukurau, Waitahuna, Waitara, Wanganui. Wellington, Westport, Whangarei, Winton, Woodville, Wyndham. IN AUSTRALIA : Melbourne Branch — Corner of Queen and Collins Streets. Sydney Branch — Pitt Street, with Sub-branch at -^8 George Street. Newcastle Branch — N.S.W, Adelaide Branch — South Australia. IN FIJI : Suva and Levuka. The Itanlc of New Zealand has Agents in every part of Great Britain and Ireland; also through out Australia and Tasmania. FOREIGN AGENTS. Canada — Bank of British North America; Bank of Montreal. California — Bank of California ; Bank of British Columbia ; Bank of British North America ; Angle— Calif ornian Bank, Limited. New York— Messrs Drexel, Morgan & Co.; Bank of Montreal; Bank of British North America: Messrs. Blake Brothers & Co. Boston, U. S.— Messrs Blake Brothers & Co. PhILadklphia, U. S — Messrs. Drexel & Co. Mexico, Peru, and the United States of Colombia— London Bank of Mexico and South America, Limited. . . Argentine Republic and Uruguay— London and River Plate Bank, Limited. Bkazil — London and Brazilian Bank, Limited. Valparaiso — Banco Nacional de Chile. India, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Japan— Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China ; Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation. Java— Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China. Alexandria— Credit Lyonnais. South Africa— Standard Bank of South Africa, Limited. Mauritius — Mauritius Commercial Bank. Honolulu— Messrs. Bishop & Co.; Messrs. Claus Spreckels & Co. The Bank of New Zealand are Bankers to the General Government of New Zealand. Drafts are issued and Credits granted at any office in New Zealand upon any other Branch or Agency of the Bank, or upon its British or Foreign Agents. Circular Credits are issued for the use of travelers. ¦ Bills upon any part of the Colony, or wherever the Bank is represented in Australia or elsewhere, are negotiated, and Moneys collected for Constituents. _ _ Current Rates of Interest given in the Colony for Deposits, and every description of Bark ing business within the Colony, or between New Zealand and Australia, Great Britain, India, China, California, etc., transacted on favorable terms. THE NATIONAL BANK OF NEW ZEALAND LIMITED. HEAD OFFICE: 71 OLD BROAD STREET, LONDON, E. C. CAPITAL, - - £1,900,000. Of which there has been Issued and Subscribed 100,000 Shares of £9 each. Paid up, £250,000. DIRECTORS: Chairman- E. BRODIE HOARE, Esq., M.P. Deputy Chairman— -E. C. MORGAN, Esq. SIR CHARLES CLIFFORD, WM. SMELLIE GRAHAME, Esq., JOHN MORRISON, Esq., JAMES RATTRAY, Esq., (of Dunedin, N. Z.) WM. JOHNSTONE STEELE, Esq., PHILIP VANDERBYL, Esq., SYDNEY YOUNG, Esq. This Bank has Correspondents throughout the world, and has branches at all the leading towns in- New Zealand. It receives Deposits for fixed periods on terms which may be ascertained on application. Issues Drafts and purchases Bills; and generally transacts all descriptions of Banking business in London and New Zealand. BANKERS: THE BANK OF ENGLAND. LLOYDS, BAKNETTS & BOSANQUETS' BANK, L'td. THE ROYAL BANK OF SCOTLAND. Secretary: RICHARD MAXWELL, Esq., 71 Old Broad Street, London. General Manager in N. Z.: WILLIAM DYMOCK, Esq., Dunedin, New Zealand. NEW ZEALAND, TASMANIA, AND AUSTRALIA ROYAL MAIL LINE. UNDER CONTRACT WITH THE GOVERNMENT OF NEW ZEALAND. rr i it mi shipping ci LIMITED. CAPITAL, £1,000,000. The Company despatches FROM LONDON every four weeks, alternating with San Francisco Mail Service, the following splendid Steamers, which make the passage in Forty Days, and are unsurpassed for the completeness and comfort of their passenger fittings : RIMUTAKA,KAIKOURA,AORANGI, . RUAPEHU, . TONGARIRO, Tons. 4,473 4,474 4,1634,163 4,163 H. P. Effective. 4,000.4,000. 4,000. 4,000.4,000. The above steamers call at Teneriffe, Cape of . Good Hope, and Hobart on the outward voyage, and at Rio de Janeiro and Teneriffe on the homeward passage. FARES TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS. Saloon, 6o Guineas and upwards ; Second Saloon, 35 Guineas and upwards; Third Class Closed Cabins, with 2 Berths, 20 Guineas each ; Closed Cabins, with 4 Berths, 18 Guineas each; Open Berths, 16 Guineas each. •The Steamer Service is supplemented by the frequent despatch of the Company's fine iron Clipper Ships, which make the voyage in about Ninety Days, and are provided with every requisite for the safety and convenience of Saloon Passengers desiring a long sea voyage. Fares up lo 50 Guineas. Arrangements can also be made for bo6king Parties of not less than 20 to' 30 Steerage Passengers. For further particulars apply at the Company's Offices — 138 LEADENHALL ST., LONDON, EC. Shaw, Savill & Albion Co., LIMITED. THE PASSENGER LINE OF ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIPS TO AND FROM London, Plymouth, and New Zealand. Steamer. Tons Register. Commander. TAINUI 5031 B.J. BARLOW, R.N.R. DORIC 4744 J. W. JENNINGS. ARAWA 5026 JOHN STUART. IONIC 4753 W. H. KIDLEY. COPTIC 4448 GEO. BURTON, R.N.R. The above Steamers are despatched from London every four weeks for New Zealand, calling at Teneriffe, Cape Town and Hobart (with passengers for Australia) ; and they leave New Zealand aiso every four weeks for London, calling at Rio de Janeiro and Teneriffe. By this favorite route the intense heat and discomfort of the Red Sea are avoided. These magnificent steamers are' noted for the excellence of the passages they make ; they have unequalled accommodation for all classes of passengers, and their commanders are men of great skill and experience. Every induce ment to the travelling public is therefore offered by this line. The First Class Saloon in each steamer is situated amidships, where the motion of the ship and vibration from the engines are least felt. Passengers who have travelled by these steamers have testified strongly to the many advan tages derived from the Saloon accommodation being placed amidships. The Staterooms are of exlra large size, and fitted wiih every convenience. The Second Class Saloon is very superior (it is situated under the poop deck in the " Arawa" and " Tainui," and near the middle of the ship in the " Doric," " Ionic," and " Coptic"), and is warmed by steam pipes and lighted by electricity in each vessel. Steerage passengers have most excellent and roomy accommodation in the between decks. THE RATES OF PASSAGE-MONEY TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS ARE . Saloon, ... Sixty Guineas and upwards. Second Saloon, - Thirty-five Guineas and upwards. Third Class, Closed cabins with 2 berths, Twenty Guineas each. " •¦ 4 " Eighteen " " " Open berths, - - Sixteen " " The Company also despatch their well-known and first-class iron sailing ships at frequent and regular intervals, and these vessels are furnished with every requisite for the convenience, comfort, and safety of those saloon passen gers who prefer a long sea voyage. Fares from Forty Guineas. For further information, apply at the Head Offices of the Company, 34 LEADENHALL STREET, E. C, LONDON, OR TO THE COMPANY'S AGENTS. NEW ZEALAND. The Tourist's Paradise. ' New Zealand is Nature 's favorite child, and the prodigal mother has filled her lap pith a wealth of wonders that are to be seen nowhere else.'' LIMITED. The fleet of the Company compiises 41 vessels, all new and fast, and fitted with every modern improvement, while for excellence of appointmenls, table, and attendance, the Union Line is a household word throughout the Southern H misphere. The following Steamers are favorably and well known in the Intercolonial service : — MARAROA (2500 tons). MANAPOURl (1800 tons). TARAWERV (2000 tons). TEKAP0 (2350 tons). WAKATIPU (1800 tons). WAIRAHAPA (1800 tons). R0T0MAHANA (1750 tons). WAIH0RA (2000 tons). HAUItOTO (2000 tons). TE ANAU (1700 tons). These fine Steamers run regularly between Australia and New Zealand, as follows : From Melbourne. — Weekly for all New Zealand ports, and vice versa. From Sydney. — six times month.y for all New Zealand ports and vice versa. In addition to these services. Steamers leave Melbourne momhly fur New Hebrides and Fiji Islands, Auckland monthly for Fiji, Auckland monthly for Tonga and Samoa; wlnle one of the Company's Steamers plies regularly between the different Islands of the Fiji and Tongan gioups. New Zealand Services. — The bulk of the Company's fleet is engaged in the coastal service of the Colony, and between the principal ports there is almost daily communication. By means of these services the Touii^t can visit all the year round the WONDERS OF NEW ZEALAND SCENERY, INCLUDING IN THE NORTH ISLAND, THE SANA TORIUM OF THE WORLD, THE HOT LAKES DISTRICT, with its ever active Geysers and Volcanoes ; and in the South Island THE GREAT COLD LAKES AND ICE FIELDS, forming a grand chain of Mountain Loch and Glen, including the unsurpassable Mount Cook and its Glaciers. During January and February of each year SPECIAL EXCURSIONS TO THE WEST COAST SOUNDS are made, each trip occupying nine days from Dunedin, during which facility is given [ox Fishing, Shooting, Sketching, and exploring these wonderful Fiords where Nature is seen in her grandest aspect. The Company are also contractors for the Mail Service between Australia. New Zealand and San Francisco, and a steamer leaves Sydney monthly for Auckland, Honolulu and-San Francisco, and vice versa. For information on all points of interest to tourists and others, apply to any of the, Company's numerous offices ihroughout the Colonies. HEAD OFFICE : LONDON OFFICE : Dunedin, New Zealand. 18 Walbrook, E.C. WELLINGTON AND MANAWATU RAILWAY CO., Limited, . Notice to Intending Emigrants Requiring First-Class Agricultural and Pastoral Land. THIS Company has for Sale, on favorable terms, various Blocks of Land of the above descrip tion, laid off in Sections varying iri area from 50 to 2000 acres. These are conveniently situated to Railway Stations and Townships on the Company's Line, and are accessible in most parts by level and well-formed Roads. The Company up to this date has sold upwards of 48,000 acres, the bulk of which land has been occupied, and in every instance the Owners are suc cessful in raising large crops and stock for market. The climate is acknowledged to be the most favorable of any district in New Zealand. Full information as to terms and plans can be obtained at the offices of the Company, Lambton Quay, Wellington, New Zealand; . JAMES- WALLACE,- Wellington, igt/i July, 1889. Secretary. JOHNSTON & CO., iiaml ipis WELLING TON and WANGANUI, NEW ZEALAND. ESTABLISHED, 1850. RECEIVE CONSIGNMENTS OF ALL DESCRIPTION OF MERCHANDISE AND MAKE PURCHASES ON COMMISSION OF WOOL, TALLOW, SKINS, HIDES, FLAX, GRAIN, BUTTER, PRESERVED MEATS AND FROZEN MEATS. AG-ENTS FOR The Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Co. The China Navigation Co., Limited. H. W. Peabody & Co.'s Line of Sailing Ships from Boston. R. W. Cameron & Co.'s Line of Sailing Ships from New York. London & Lancashire Fire Insurance Company. Union Fire and Marine Insurance Co. of New Zealand. London Agents : Messrs. POBT. BROOKS & CO., St. Peters Chambers, Cornhill. Bankers, Wellington : BANK OP AUSTRAL 1SIA. Bankers, London : BANK OF AUSTRALASIA. ESTABLISHED 1847. ESTABLISHED 1847. W. M. BANNATYNB & CO., ( Shipping, Insurance and Commission Agents, Consignments from all parts of the World receive Special Attention. Returns rendered promptly. Consignors are authorized to draw against Goods that are recommended. AGENCIES. Royal Insurance Co., of Liverpool, Fire and Life. Nobel's Explosives Co., Limited, Glasgow, Dynamite, etc. Curtis' s & Harvey, London, Blasting Powder. . James Pain & Son, London, Fireworks. William Mann, Jr. & Co., LewisLon, Pa., Axes. David Corsar & Sons, Arbroath, Canvas. J. M. Greig & Co., London, Candles. E. J. Henry & Co., London, Paper Bags, etc. Samuel Berger & Co., London, Starch, etc. R. Peterson & Sous, Glasgow, Pickles, Sauces, etc. David Dunn & Son, Glasgow, Preserved Fish, etc. Swallow & Ariel], Limited, Melbourne, Treacle, Biscuits, etc. R. & N. Pott, London, Vinegar. J. M. Fleming, Manila, Cigars. Sideman, Lachman & Co , San Francisco, Cigars. Lone Jack Cigarette Co , Lynchburg, Va., Cigarettes. Woodson & Hughes, Lynchburg, Va , Cigarettes. T. C. Williams & Co., Richmond, Va., Tobacco. Watson & McGill. Petersburg, Va., Tobacco. James Leigh Jones, Richmond, Va., Tobacco. H. & F. Bouter, Hamburg, Cherry Brandy. St. Lucia Lime Fruit Co., Liverpool, Lime Juice, etc. Normandin, Macgen & Co., London. Sauterne. Warre & Co., Oporto, Port Wine. Hugo Fehr, Hamburg, Lager Beer. Bass, Ratcliff