r^d-waimEissinnf- ILIIIBIKAIS^ Gift of Frederick S. Dickson, Ph. B., 1*71, in appreciation of Professor Thomas R. Lounsbury, 1918. PICTURESQUE MEMORIALS OF A SERIES OF ORIGINAL ETCHINGS AND VIGNETTES, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS, AND OTHER REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY, IN THAT CITY AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, A BRIEF HISTORY OF OLD AND NEW SARUM. BY THE REV. PETER HALL, M. A., LATE CUB.ATE OF ST. EDMUND'S. DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO THE DEAN AND CHAPTER. SALISBURY ; W. E. 15 HO DIE AID CO., CANAL. M.DCCC.XXXIV. SALISBURY : 1' 11 I N" T E D BY W. B. BEO'tlt' A»n CO., C. A N A ] CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY ACCOUNT OF THE CITIES OF OLD AND NEW SARUM. Present State of Old Sarum Caer-Sarflog of the Celts and Britons Sorbiodunum of the Romans. — Roman Roads. — Searobyrig of the Saxon Heptarchy. — Discovery of Bodies in the Gardens of St. Edmund's College Norman Conquest. — Feudal Law and Doomsday Book Translation of the Episcopal See from Wilton Parliament of Henry I — Discontents at Old Sarum Removal to New Sarum, or Salisbury Cathedral begun, completed, and consecrated — Description of the Bulwarks of Old Sarum Earldom of Salisbury. — Manor of Old Sarum. — Sonnet, b}T the Rev. W. L. Bowles Description of the New Cathedral ... ... ... ... ... The New City — City-Gates — Chartered Companies Public Grammar-Schools Erection of the Spire Description Legend of the Cathedral Alarm for the Safety of the Spire Hungerford and Beauchamp Chapels Boy-Bishop. — Stourton Monument Surveys of the Cathedral and Spire — Accidents by Lightning Curious Discovery in the Spire Repairs, under Bishop Hume — Renovations of Mr. Wyatt, under Bishop Barrington Dimensions of Salisbury, and Height of other Cathedrals The Cloisters, Chapter-House, and Library Salisbury Missal .Relics ofthe Saints Corporation of the City — Destruction of the Old Council-House and Guildhall by Fire.. — Old and New Gaol — New Council-House ... ... ... ... Navigation of the River Avon to Christchurch. — Canal to Redbridge and Southampton. — The English Venice ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . . Charitable Institutions Aims-Houses County Infirmary ... ... ... . . Eminent Characters — Thomas Chubb — James Harris — William Benson Earle Neighbourhood of Salisbury — Stonehenge : Sonnet, by the Rev. Thos. Warton — Clarendon Palace : Plague at Salisbury Ivy-Church : Stephen Duck, the Wiltshire Bard Longford Castle.. — Bemerton : Walter Curie, George Herbert, John Norris, and Archdeacon Coxe Wilton : English Tournaments Wilton Abbey and House : Sonnet, by the Rev. Thomas Warton 1—2 2—4 4—6 6— 9 9—10 10—13 13—1414—16 16—18 II! 18—2020—24 24—2727— 29 29—34 Chronological Table, shewing the Year and the Reign corresponding with the several Bishops of Old and New Sarum ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ;;ii II. DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. Copper-plate — The Frontispiece. View of Old Sarum. Woodcut — On the Title-page. Dean and Chapter Seal. Woodcut — Tail-piece to the Introduction. Old Houses in Milford-street. Copper-plate 1. — Ancient View of Sarum. Woodcut ... 1 — Porch of Laverstock Church. Copper -plate 2 — St. Anne's Gate. Woodcut . . . 2.. — Court- Yard at Chancellor Marsh's. Copper-plate 3 St. Martin's Church. Woodcut ... 3 — Font at St. Martin's. Copper-plate 4. — Stratford Church and Manor-House. Woodcut . . . 4 — Cottage Residence at Stratford. Copper-plate 5 Joiner's Hall, St. Anne's-street. Woodcut ... 5 — Tric-trac Table. Copper-plate 6. — Nave of Salisbury Cathedral. Woodcut ... 6. — Monument of Bishop Poore. CONTENTS DESCRIPTION OP THE ENGRAVINGS. Copper-plate 7 The Work-House: A View of Crane-street. Woodcut ... 7 Ancient House in New-street. Copper-plate 8 Harnham Mill. Woodcut ... 8 Corbel-head in West Harnham Church. Copper-plate 9. — Foulstone and Odstock Churches. Woodcut ... 9 The Barracks, in Brown-street. Copper-plate 10. — West End of Salisbury Cathedral, restored. Woodcut ... 10 Oriel Window, in High-street. Copper-plate 11 Fisherton Church. Woodcut ... 11 Panel-moulding, in High-street. Copper-plate 12 Ancient Refectory on the Canal. Woodcut ... 12 Gothic Gate-way on the Canal. Copper-plate 13 The Poultry-Cross, restored. Woodcut ... 13. — Gable-ends in Silver-street. Copper-plate 14 — St. Thomas's Church, from the River. Woodcut ... 14. — Public-House and Bridge at Fisherton. Copper-plate 15 Court- Yard of the Work -House ; and the George Inn, High-street. Woodcut ... 15. — Door-way in the Yard of the George Inn. Copper-plate 16. — The Bishop's Palace. Woodcut ... 16 Canon Bowles's House. Copper-plate 17 — College De Vaux, Harnham. Woodcut ... 17 — Ancient Column in Winchester-street. Copper-plate 18 Hungerford and Beauchamp Chapels. Woodcut ... 18 Cathedral Porch, in Mr. Wyndham's Garden. Copper-plate 19 — The Close-Gate in High-street, with the College of Matrons. Woodcut ... 19 — Harnham-Gate. Copper-plate 20 — The King's House : late the Residence of General Sir John Slade. Woodcut ... 20 — Porch of the King's House. Copper-plate 21 — The Muniment-Room, in Salisbury Cathedral. Woodcut ... 21. — Regal Chair, in the Close. Copper-plate 22 — St. Anne's-street. Woodcut ... 22. — Tomb ofthe Duke of Buckingham, in Britford Church. Copper-plate 23. — St. John's Chapel, Harnham. Woodcut ... 23. — The Hospital of St. Nicholas, Harnham. Copper-plate 24 — Bird's-eye View ofthe Cathedral, Chapter-House, and Cloisters. Woodcut ... 24. — Ancient Horn, in the Council-House. Copper-plate 25 — St. Edmund's Church. Woodcut ... 25 Pulpit of St. Martin's Church. Copper-plate 26. — Houses of Canon Hume and James Lacy, Esq. Woodcut . '2V, Fire-place at the Barracks, in Brown-street. Copper-plate 27 Interior of St. Thomas's Church. Woodcut ... 27 Chancel-Screen, in St. Thomas's Chuich. Copper-plate 28 The Council-Chamber. Woodcut ... 28.— The Old Guildhall. A LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. J. L. Alford, Esq., Mayor of Salisbury, 1834, India 4to. William Andrews, Esq., Canal, India 4to. Mrs. Arney, Close Rev. E. F. Arney, Dean, Hants Lord Arundel], Wardour Castle, India 4to. Hon. Mrs. Arundell, ditto Rev. Francis B. Astley, Manningford Abbotts, Wilts, India 4to. George Atkinson, Esq., Bernard's Cross Francis Attwood, Esq,, Close, India 4to. Mr. A. J. Attwood Mr. Attwater, Connock, Wilts Mrs. Bailey, Devizes, India 4to. Colonel Baker, St. Anne's-street, India 4to. Rev. F. E. Baker, Wily William Baldwin, Esq., Ringwood Mr. Henry Barnes, India 4to. Mr. F. Barnes Richard Barnett, Esq., Kentish Town, Mid- dlesex Mr. Barnett, Devizes Mr. Barrett, Marlborough Mr, Barrett, Queen-street Mr. Bartlett T. B. M. Baskerville, Esq., Rockley-House, Wilts, India folio Mr. Bateman, High-street Marquess of Bath, Longleat, Wilts, Ind. 4to, Mr. Bayley, Newmarket, India 4to. Mr. Richard Bayley, India 4to. Miss Hicks Beach, Netheravon-House, Wilts, India 4to. Mr. Beach, Catherine-street J. Beare, Esq., Mayor of Salisbury, 1833 Mr. J. Beckingsale, Milford-street Miss Benett, Norton Bavant, Wilts James Bennett, Esq., Market-place Mr, Bennett, Southampton Robert Benson, Esq., Deputy Recorder Miss Benson, Close Mr. Benson, bookseller, Weymouth Mr. J. Berry, Andover Mr. Biddlecombe, Close Major-General Sir Geo. Bingham, India 4to. W. B. Blackmore, Esq., Crane-street, Ind. 4to. Rev. Dr. Bliss, St. John's College, Oxford E. W. Blunt, Esq., Kempshot Park, Basing stoke, India 4to. Mrs. Bolton, Brickworth, India 4to. William Boucher, Esq., Thornhill, Dorset, India 4to. Hon. Captain Bouverie, M. P., Clyffe-HaU, Wilts, India 4to. Rev. Edward Bouverie, Coleshill, Berks, India 4to. Mr. Bower, Winchester Rev. John Bowie, Buona Vista, Lymington, India 4to. Rev. Wm. Lisle Bowles, Canon Residentiary, India 4to. Charles Bowles, Esq., Shaftesbury Mr. Bracher, Church-street Mr. H. Bracher, Market-place George W. Braikenridge, Esq., Broomwell House, Bristol Mr. T. Brettell, Rupert-street, London, India 4 to. Mr. Walter Brettell, Silver-street W. H. Brewer, Esq., Andover, India 4to. John Britton, Esq., Burton Cottage, London W. B. Brodie, Esq., M. P., Close, 2 copies, India 4to. C. G. Brodie, Esq., Gigant-street, India 4to. Messrs. Brodie and Co., booksellers, 6 plain, 3 India 4to., 1 India folio Mr. Bromage, Chipper-lane G. Brown, Esq., Castle-street Mr. F. Brown, Close C. E. Buckland, Esq., Shaftesbury John Buckler, Esq., New Kent Road, Mid dlesex John Bullar, Esq., Southampton Mr. W. Burbidge, Crane-street, India 4to. Mr. Joseph Burch, Milford-street William Burridge, Esq., Shaftesbury Sir James Burrough, Laverstock, India 4to. Mr. T. Burrough, Blue-boar-row Mr. G. Butler, Kennett, Wilts, India 4to. Archbishop of Canterbury, India folio Alexander Carter, Esq., Ringwood Mr. O. B. Carter, Winchester Rev. S. H. Cassan, Bruton, Somerset Mr, C. Castles, Bull-head-court, London Rev. George Chard, Blandford, India 4to. Dean of Chester, Kensington Palace, India 4to. Mr. Child, Chipper-Lane Mr. Chinn, Milford-street Wm. Chisholme, Esq., Kentish Town, Mid dlesex Mr. Clapperton, bookseller, 2 copies Mr. Clark, bookseller, Dorchester, 2 copies Archdeacon Clarke, Canon Residentiary Turner Clarke, Esq., Andover William Clarke, Esq., Ringwood Rev. G. P. Cleather, Chirton, Wilts Wm. H. Coates, Esq., Endless-street, India 4to. Mr. Collings, bookseller, Bath Mr. T. Combe, bookseller, Leicester Mr. Cooe Mrs. Coombes Eyre Coote, Esq., West Park, Fordingbridge, India folio A. T. Corfe, Esq., Close The Misses Corfe, Weymouth, India 4to. John Cother, Esq., Endless-street, India 4to. Mr. Cotton, India 4to. Rev. David Davies, Cleddesden, Hants, India 4lo. Edward Davies, Esq., Close, India 4to. John Davis, Esq., Fisherton Delamere, India 4to. Mr. G, Davis, Fish-Market Mr. George Davis James Dawkins, Esq., Richmond Miss Dawkins, Upper Brook-street, London, India 4to Charles Deane, Esq., Winchester Mr. J. Dennis, High-street George Dew, Esq., Canal, India 4to. Rev. Christopher Dodsen, Penton Lord Dover, Dover House, Whitehall, India 4to. (dec.) B. C. Dowding, Esq., Close, India 4to. Miss Dowling, Enford Cottage, Wilts Mr. Dredge, Fisherton Mr. Wm. Drew, jun., Catherine-street Rev. Edward Duke, Lake House, Wilts, India 4to. Lieut.-CoLGeorge Duke, Appleshaw, India 4to. Rev. Richard Durnford, Clatford Thomas Dyer, Esq., Ringwood Mr. R. Dyer, Gilder-lane Mr. D. T. Dyke, Exeter-street Mr. T.. Earle, bookseller, India 4to. Mrs. Edward, Bloomsbury-place, London Miss Edwards, Castle-street, India 4to. F. T. Egerton, Esq., Roche Court, India 4to. Miss Ekins, Durnford Cottage, India 4to. Mrs. Ellary, De Vaux Place Henry Elliott, Esq., Devonshire-street, London G. A. Ellis, Esq., Weymouth Mrs. Emly, Close, India 4to. T. H. Ernst, Esq., Westcombe House, So merset Mrs, Ernst, ditto Rev. W. Evans, Pewsey, Berks Mrs. Evans, Milford-street, India 4to. Mrs. Everett, Endless-street Mrs. H. Everett, St. Anne's-street, India 4to. George Eyre, Esq., Warrens, India folio Daniel Eyre, Esq., Close Mrs. Purvis Eyre, Close, India 4to. Miss Eyre, Close, India 4to. Rev. G. Stanley Faber, Stockton, India 4to. Mr. E. Farr, St. Anne's-street Rev. C. Fawcett, Boscombe, India 4to. W. Fawcett, Esq., Mayor of Salisbury, 1832 H. A. W. Fellowes, Esq., Bryanstone-square, London, India 4to. Mr. Benj. Ferrey, Great Titchfield-street, London Miss Figes, Endless-street Dr. Finch, Belle-Vue, Salisbury, 1 plain, 1 India 4to. Mr. Finley, M.C., High-street Mr. F. R. Fisher, High-street, India 4to. Mr. J. Fisher, Oxford, 1 plain, 1 India folio Lieut. Fitzpatrick, Bruff, Limerick Mr. Fletcher, bookseller, Southampton, 2 plain, 1 India 4to. Mr. Florance, Fisherton Sam. Foot, Esq., Endless-street, India 4to. Mr. Foreman, Milford-street M. le Forestier, Rollestone-street Mr. W. Forster, Bradpole, Dorset Rev. F.W. Fowle, Amesbury Dr. Fowler, Milford, India 4to. Mr. Wm. Fowles, Chisenbury, Wilts Rev. E. Foyle, Cholderton, India folio (dec.) Miss Fox, South Newton, India 4to. Mr. C. J. Fox, Bath W. G. French, Esq., Wilton Mr. E. Fricker, High-street Rev. E. Froud, Clatford Mr. Robert Fry, Market-place, India 4to. Rev. Joah Furey, Fordingbridge, India folio Mrs. Gannaway Mr.Garbett, Winchester Major Gardiner, Cholderton Lodge Mrs. Garrett, Catherine-street Mr. Gatrill, Exeter-street Mr. B. George, Milford-street N. Gifford, Esq. Rev. Dr. Gilbert, Principal of Brasenose Col lege, Oxford, India 4to. Mr. Gillingham, sen., Milford-street Mrs. Glendenning, St. Thomas's Church-yard Duke of Gloucester, 3 copies, India folio Mr. G. Goddard, Catherine-street Mr. C. N. Goddard, St. Anne's-street Mr. Godwin, High-street Mr. Golborn, Market-place Mr. Gold, Bedwin-street Rev. J. E. Good, Bristol John Goodford, Esq., Chilton-Canteloe, So merset Mr. Grace, Devizes Mrs, Graham, De Vaux Place Mr. Gray, Crane-street Mr. Gray Rev. H. B, Greene, Longparish Rev. J. Greenly, Close Mrs. Greenway, Berwick St. John, India 4to. Mrs, Griffinhoofe (dec.) Rev. C. Grove, Odstock, India folio W. Chafin Grove, Esq., Knoyle b LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Captain Grubbe, India 4to. Countess of Guildford, Old Alresford Joseph Gulston. Esq., Wickham, Hants Richard Guv, Esq., Close Rev. W. .1. Hall, Wilmington-square, London T. H. Hall, Esq., Upper Guildford-street, London J. C. Hall, Esq., Kentish Town, Middlesex, India 4to. C. Harbin, Esq., Ringwood, India 4to. Rev. J. E. Harrington, Sapcote, Leicester. shire, India 4to. Geo. Harris, Esq., Burgate-House, India 4to. Rev. Peter Harrison, Fisherton Mr. Hatcher, Endless-street Rev. Dr. Hawes, Rolleston-street, India 4to. Mr. J. Hawkins, Canal Mr. Hayes, Castle-street W. Hayward, Esq. Mr. Hayward, Close Thomas Heath, Esq., Andover, India 4to. Sir William Heathcote Bart., Hursley Park, Hants, India 4to. Mr. C. Hebditch, Broughton Rev. C. B. Henville, Portsmouth Bishop of Hereford, India folio (dec.) R. Hetley, Esq., Britford, India folio Mr. Hibberd, bookseller, Sarum, 2 copies Mr. Higgins, Fisherton-bridge C. Hill, Esq., Endless-street, India 4to. E. Hinxman, Esq , Little Durnford, Ind. 4to. Rev. Dr. Hird, Monxton, Hants Sir Richard Colt Hoare, Bart., Stourhead, Wilts, 1 India 4to. 1 India folio M. T. Hodding, Esq., St. Anne's-street, India folio Mrs. John Hodding, Canal, India 4to. Rev. C. H. Hodgson, Close, India folio H. Holmes, Esq., Abbey, Romsey Rev. W. E. Hony, Baverstock Sir Charles Hulse, Bart., Breamore-House, India 4to. Mr. Humby, High-street The Rev. T. H. Hume, Canon Residentiary, India 4to. Rev. H. Huntingford, India 4to. C. Hurd, Esq., High-street John Hussey, Esq., Lyme, India 4to. Ambrose Hussey, Esq., New-street, Ind. 4to. William Hussey, Esq., India 4to. Rev. Edward Hussey Rev. Mr. Hutchins, Clanville-House, Hants, India 4to. Miss Hutchinson, Kentish Town, Middlesex Rev. Dr. Ingram, President of Trin. Coll, Oxford, India 4to. Mr. J. Ingram, High-street William Iremonger, Esq., Wherwell-House, Hants Robert Isherwood, Esq., Kentish Town, Middlesex Miss Ives, Winchester-street Mr. James, Bond-street, London, India folio Mr. James Jenkins, East Harnham Mr. George Jenkins, ditto Mrs. Jennings, Chipper-lane Win. Jerdan, Esq., Brompton, Middlesex William Jones, Esq., Ringwood Mr. Samuel Jones, St. John-street Mr. Jones, bookseller, 1 plain, 1 India 4to., 1 India folio Rev. George Kennard, Durnford Mr. John Keynes, Winchester-street Mr. King, High-street Mr. John Knight, Market-place (India 4to.) James Lacy, Esq., Laveistock, India 4to. Mr. Lacy, New-street Mr. C. 1.. Lake, Silver-street, India 4to. Mr. Lambert Mr. Langridge, Silver-street Mr. Lashmore, Southampton Mr. George Lawes, Market-place, 1 plain, 1 India 4to. Mr. Wm. Lawes, Market-place, India 4to. T. Lawrence, Esq., Rollestone-street, India 4to. Mr. Lee, Salt-lane Mrs. Lee Watlham Locke, Esq., M.P., Rowde-Ford House, Devizes Mr. John Loder, Close Rev. G. P. Lowther, Orcheston St. George Miss Luxford, Close Rev. Charles Lucas, Devizes Archdeacon Macdonald, Canon Residentiary, India 4to. Mr. James Macklin, Market-place Earl of Malmesbury, Heron Court, Hants, India folio Miss F. Mant, Winchester, India 4to. Mr. J. Marlow, Silver-street Chancellor Marsh, Canon Residentiary,2 plain, 2 India 4to. John Martin, Esq., Mount-street, London Henry Mason, Esq., Kentish Town, Middlesex Geo. Matcham, Esq., New House, Downton, India 4to. Charles Mathews, Esq., Kentish Town, Mid dlesex Dr. Maton, Redlynch, Wilts Mr. S. Maton, Endless-street Rev. J. Matthews, Shrewton Mr. Maunder, New-street J. T. Mayne, Esq., TetTont House Charles Mayo, Esq., Winchester Mrs. Meredith, Nottingham-Place, London Rev. G. A. Montgomery, Bishopstone Rev. Robert Morres, Reading John Morrice, Esq., Gower-street, London Mr. Munday, Queen-street Mr. Nattali, bookseller, London, 4 copies Joseph Neeld, Esq., M.P., Grettleton-House, Wilts, India 4to. Mr. Newman John Nichols, Esq., Parliament-st., London Earl of Normanton, Somerley-House, Hants, India folio Miss Noyes, Close Mr. Old Mr. Olding, Woodford Mr. Wm. Osmond, Close George Pain, Esq., Castle-street, India 4to. Thomas Lester Parker, Esq., Mount-street, London, 2 copies, India 4to. Mr. Parsons, Catherine-street Mr. Patten, Winchester Mr. Wm. Payne, Church-street, India 4to. Mr. Sampson Payne, Canal Rev. Jasper Peck, Melksham Earl of Pembroke, Wilton Abbey, India folio Mr. Peniston, De Vaux Place. India 4to. Adjutant Pettit, R.W.Y.C, Exeter-street Mr. James Phillips, Market-place Right Hon. Henry Pierrepont, Conbolt Park, India 4to. J. Pinckney, Esq., Market-place, India 4to. (dec.) Air. C. Pittman, High-street Mr. Richard Pittman, jun., Bedwin-street Mr. Pocock, Catherine-street R. P. C. Pooley, Esq., Blandford, India 4 to. Rev. J. T. Porter, Close Alexander Powell, Esq., Huidcott House, Wilts, India 4to. Rev. H. Powney, Wallop, India 4to. Mr. Wm. Prangley, Brown-street, India folio Mrs. .1. Prince Rev. Dr. Radcliffe, Endless-street, India folio Rev. G. Radcliffe, Castle-street, India 4to. Earl of Radnor, Longford Castle, Wilts, India folio. Countess of Radnor, ditto, India 4to. Mr. Rake, Canal Mr. T. Randoll, Bedwin-street Mr. Ranger Mr. J. Reitli, Poultry-Cross, India 4to. Rev. P. P. Rendall, Milston, India folio (dec.) Mrs. Rendall, Endless-street Mr. Rhoades, Minster-street John Richards, Esq., Francis-street, London — Richards, Esq. Mr. Riddell, Brown-street Mr. Robberts, Poultry-Cross Messrs. Robbins and Wheeler, booksellers, Winchester, 12 plain, 1 India 4to. Rev. J. A. Roberts, Wood-street, Ljndon Mr. George Roberts Hon. Mrs. Robinson, Manor-House, Durn ford, India 4to. Lord Rodney, Alresford Mr. Rook, Rockbourn Mr. James Rooke, Catherine-street, India 4to. Rev. H. J. Rose, Trinity College, Cambridge Mr. Rutter, Shaftesbury Mr. J. Rvland, Bristol Rev. Mr. Saffery, Castle-street Bishop of Salisbury, India folio Dean of Salisbury, India 4to. W. W. Salmon, Esq., South-Broom House, Devizes, India 4to. Miss Salter, Castle-street G. Sampson, Esq., Ca-tle-street J. Sanger, Esq., Oxford-street, London, India 4to. Mr. Joseph Sanger, Fisherton Mr. Saunders, Wishford Mr. J. Saunders, St. Anne's-stieet, India 4to. W. Scott, Esq. William Seagrim, Esq., Wilton, India 4to. Rev. M. Sealy, Farley-Chamberlayne, Hants Mr. Setchel, bookseller, King-street, London Mr. W. Sharp, Abbey, Romsey Mr. Sherwood, bookseller, London Mr. Shipp, bookseller, Blandford, I plain, 1 India 4to. Mrs. Shuckburgh, the Moot, Downton Mi,s Sibly, Portsea Mr. Richard Sidford, jun.. High-street Mr. James Simmonds, Rollestone-street Rev. H. Sissmore, Andover Mr. Skeate, Bedwin-street Miss S. Skinner, Close Rev. F. Skurray, Horningsham E. Smirke, Esq., London Septimus Smith. Esq., Blandford Mr. G. Smith, Canal J. Smith, Esq., Close George South, Esq., Long-fleet, Dorset John Sparshatt, Esq., Market-place, India 4to. Miss Spiers, Wallop-Lodge Mr. Springford, Fisherton Mr. Squarev, Market-place Sir George Staunton, B irt.. M.P., Leigh Park, Hants. 2 copies, India 4to. Edward Stevens, Esq., Canal Mr. Storey, Conduit-street, London, Ind. folio Robert Strange, Esq., Devizes Mr. Strong, bookseller, Bristol Earl of Suffolk, Charlton, Malmesbury, India 4 to. Mr. William Sutton, jun., Church-street John Swayne, Esq., Wilton, India 4to. J. P. Swayne, Esq., Steeple Langford, India 4to. Mr. Swyer, Shaftesbury Mr. Robert Swyer, Manchester Mr. Harry Swyer, Fisherton Bridge Mr. John Sydenham, Dorchester Lord De Tabley, Tabley House, Leicester shire, 2 copies, India 4to. William Tanner, Esq., Devizes Rev. W. W. Tatum, New-street, India 4to. George Watson Taylor, Esq., India folio Rev. N. Templeman, Cranborne, India folio John Templeman, Esq., Bath, India folio Mr. Titt, Wallop, India 4to. Mr. Toll, Sherborne, India 4to. Rey. Dr. Toogood, Milston, India folio LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. George Townsend, Esq. Mrs. Tregonwell, Beurn Cliff, Dorset, Ind.4to. Mr. Triniman, Catherine-street Mr. Truman, Canal E. R. Tunno, Esq., Redrice House, Hants, India folio John Tylee, Esq., Broadleaze, Devizes Rev ^Frederick Urquhart, Broadmayne, Dorset Rev. S. B. Vince, Ringwood Rev. H. Wake, Wallop, India 4to. Rev. Richard Waldy, Affpuddle, Dorset Charles Baring Wall, Esq. M. P., Norman Court, Hants, India folia Rev. Mr. Ward, Great Bedwin, Wilts, India 4to. Mr. C. Watterson, Church-street, Fisherton Robert Waylin, Esq., Devizes, India 4to. W. Webb, Esq. J. Whatman, Esq., Vinters, Kent, India 4to. Mrs. Wheatley H. J. Wheeler, Esq., Montague Place, Lon don John Wheeler, Esq., Endless-street W. Wheeler, Esq., Brown-street Samuel Whitchurch, Esq., Charford, Wilts, India 4to. Mrs. W. Whitchurch, Winchester-street Rev. J. P. White, Droxford, Hants Rev. J. White, Hardwick, Bucks, (dec.) Mr. White, Catherine-street Mr. J. W. White, Castle-street Mr. H. White, Castle-street W. D. Whitmarsh, Esq., Endless-street, India 4to. Mr. G. Whitmarsh, Wilton Edward Whitmore, Esq. Miss Wickens, Close Mr. John Wilkes, Milford-street Robert Williams, Esq. M. P., Bridehead, Dorset, India folio Rev. Dr. Williams, Winchester College Mrs. David Williams, ditto Rev. E. H. G. Williams, Marlborough Edward Willoughby, Esq., Lancaster-place, London Mr. Wills, Castle-street Richard Wilson, Esq., Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, India 4to. Bishop of Winchester, India folio Dean of Winchester, India folio Winchester College Library, India folio David Winzar, Esq., Market-place John Winzar, Esq., Endless-street, India 4to C. B. Wollaston, Esq. Captain Woods Mr. Woodward, Andover, India 4to Miss Elizabeth Woolls, Winchester James Woolls, Esq., Kingston, Jamaica Rev. C. Woolls, Sturminster Marshall William Woolls, Esq., Sydney, N. S. W. Mr. Worth, St. Anne's-street, India 4to. Wadham Wyndham, Esq., St. Edmund's College, India 4to. Wm. Wyndham, Esq., Dinton House, Wilts, India 4to. Miss Wyndham, Close, 1 plain, 1 India 4to Chas. Wyndham, Esq., Donhead Hall, Wilts, India 4to H. Farr Yeaiman,Esq., Stock House, Dorset. India 4to Rev. W. J. Yonge, Rockbourn Mr. Wm. Young, New-street SOME ACCOUNT CITIES OF OLD AND NEW SARUM. In the Frontispiece of our " Picturesque Memorials," we have a most faithful and spirited representation of the Remains of Old Sarum, as they now stand. The Borough, so long a bone of contention between the rival hosts of politicians, and which had returned its pair of Repre sentatives for a space of five hundred years, is now disfranchised ; and even the Election Tree, seen in the valley on the left, has lately fallen, in part, " To savage winds a prey, " And men more furious and severe than they." Here stands Old Sarum, nevertheless ; and we may safely venture to predict, will stand as long as the world endures. Behind it, lies the peaceful village of Stratford ; in front, the Castle Inn, which so long enjoyed the monopoly of the elective franchise ; and beyond, on every side, the desert plain, covered with mounds and barrows, diversified occasionally with villages, and with spots of rural cultivation. Old Sarum was a Fortress of the Celts, or native Britons. It is first recorded as the residence of Ergen, the daughter of Caractacus, who was married to the Chief Ruler of the City. Its original designation was Caer-Sar:flog, or the Citadel of the Service-Tree. In the classical writers of antiquity, we find it reckoned among the thirty town's occupied in this part of the Island by the Belgae, a tribe of the aboriginal Germans, who were dispossessed of their British conquests by Vespasian. By the Roman government its advantageous position was duly appre ciated : they made it a station for troops, in connexion with other posts, united by military roads,* under the title of Sorbiodunum, according to the Itineraries of Antoninus and of Richard of Cirencester. * No less than six Roman Roads are known to have emerged out of Old Sarum. One, S. W., passing near Bemerton Church, crossing the Wily by the Parsonage Barn, over Lord Pembroke's warren, to Tony Stratford, Woodyates Inn, and Badbury Rings, to Dorchester. A second, E., crossing the London road, near King Chlorus's Camp, by Ford, Winterslow Mill, Buccold Farm, and Bossington, to Winchester. A third, N. E.,by Paton, to Silchester, A fourth, N., towards Kennet. A fifth, N. W., by Bishopstrow, and Yarnbury, Scratchbury, and Battlesbury Castles, to Aqua? Solis, or Bath. And a sixth, W., to Ilchester. B Again, under the Saxon dynasty, we find Old Sarum ranked among the most considerable cities of the West, under the name of Searobyrig. In the year 5.52, Kenric, or Cynric, having routed the Britons, established himself within its bulwarks/ It appears to have been endowed, by Ina and Ethelburga, king and queen of the West Saxons, with an ecclesiastical foundation, soon after the conversion of the Saxons to Christianity. And on the subjugation of the Heptarchy, in the early part of the 9th century, it became the frequent residence of Egbert. In the year 872, when Alfred was engaged in his eventful struggle with the Danes, he paid particular attention to the security of Old Sarum. The outer trench and palisades were then added ; and although the fortress was still unable to withstand the sanguinary assaults of its enemies, it soon regained its character, and was selected by Edgar, in 960, as the place of convocation for a general council, to devise measures for the expulsion of their troublesome assailants from the North. In 1003 it was visited by Sweyn, king of Denmark, after the pillage and demolition of the neighbouring town of Wilton ; but appears, on this occasion, to have shared a better fate. From the period of the Conquest, the history of Old Sarum becomes more precise. In 1086, William the Conqueror here convened the prelates, nobles, sheriffs, and knights of his new dominions to pay their homage, to devise the regulations of the Feudal Law, and the preparation of the Doomsday Book. Two other national councils were also held at the same place, within a short interval of time ; one, by William Rufus, in 1096 ; and another, in 1116, by Henry the 1st. Finally, the neighbourhood acquired additional lustre from the establishment of a Royal Residence at Clarendon, within an easy distance of communication with a garrisoned city, and likewise with the sea-coast. It was during the reign of William the Conqueror that the Episcopal See was translated from Wilton to Old Sarum, where there already existed a Chapel, under the government of a Dean. The patronage of the Dean was translated to the Cathedrals of Sherborne, in Dorsetshire, and Sunning, in Berkshire; while Herman, who had before occupied the See of Sherborne and Wilton, was now installed into that of Sarum. But it was to Osmund that the city was indebted for its Cathedral, and an establishment proportionate to its ecclesiastical rank and consequence. The charter of foundation was ratified by William Rufus, at Hastings, in the year * In the year 1771, the bones of near thirty bodies, with remains of ancient armour, were discovered in the gardens of St. Edmund's College, Salisbury. These are thought by some to indicate the spot where the battle was fought between the Britons and West Saxons. A commemorative urn was shortly afterwards erected, by H. P. Wyndham, Esq., with the following inscription :— " Hoc in campo, Cynricus, Occidentalium Saxonum Rex, Britannos adeo gravi hominum strage profligavit, ut vicinam urbem Sorbiodunum facile mox expugnaret. Hujus cladis indicio sunt, armorum, rubigine, nee non ossium putridine, confectorum, insignes reliquite, nuper hic in apricum erutaj Ne loci saltern memoria periret, haec rite dedicator urna. A. D. 1774." 1091 ; and the Church, which was dedicated, the year following, to the Virgin Mary, is supposed to have stood within the North- Western angle of the fortress, near the postern leading down to Stratford. The houses of the Priests, and the Churches of St. John and Holy-well, were also built within the walls. In the reign of Henry the 1st, the City and Cathedral of Old Sarum flourished in all the height of their magnificence : and with the splendid council of nobles and commonalty here assembled, it is supposed, by many, that the British Parliament took its rise. Bishop Roger was an especial favourite with the monarch, and presided at once over the Church and Fortress, as well as over the counsels of the State. He repaired and completed the fortifications of the town, embellished the Cathedral and episcopal Palace in a style which has elicited the warmest praises from the historian, William of Malmesbury ; and, on the death of Henry, obtained from his successor, Stephen, a variety of favours and 'privileges for the city and diocese. But the Bishop at length fell into disgrace at court. The King assumed the custody of the fortress, which he held till his capture, in 1141, by the Empress Maud, who requited the partiality ofthe See of Sarum by a confirmation of many benefactions, which Stephen had begun to withdraw. After the liberation of the King, however, Old Sarum became the actual scene of civil and domestic broils. Here the adherents of Maud established their head-quarters, and defeated Stephen, in 1143, on the plains of Wilton. And so it was, the Church, as has ever been the case when affairs of State have miscarried, became an easy prey to the rapacity and ill-humour ofthe contending parties. With Henry the 2nd, the days of prosperity returned ; and the rites and immunities of Old Sarum, civil as well as ecclesiastical, were restored. But it was not till the reign of John that events of the utmost importance to the existence of the city came to pass. The soil and situation of the place had long ago been felt to be both unprofitable and inconvenient. Peter de Blois, a writer of the times, has commemorated these vexations, in Monkish verse : — " Est tibi defectus lymphse, sed copia cretas; " Saevit ibi ventus, sed Philomela silet." " There water's scarce, but chalk in plenty lies ; " And those sweet notes which Philomel denies, " The harsher music of the wind supplies." But besides these natural disadvantages of position, the Clergy found themselves continually exposed to angry and tumultuous collision with the garrison. During the episcopacy of Bishops Joceline and Hubert Walter, a desire to remove the affairs of the Church into the valley had been frequently entertained. Under Herbert Poore, who presided in the reign of Richard the 1st, the migration is supposed to have commenced ; but the full execution of the project was not effected till the succession of his brother Richard to the See, in 1217, according to the narrative of William de Wanda, Precentor, and afterwards Dean, of the Cathedral. A formal representation of grievances was then made to Pope Honorius, and leave obtained to remove the ecclesiastical establishment, at the discretion* ofthe Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, who were severally pledged to contribute, out of their revenues, towards the attainment of so important a design. Accordingly, in the year 1219, on the first Monday after Easter, a temporary Chapel, of wood, was commenced at New Sarum, or Salisbury, for families who had already settled, or were daily thronging to the spot, and opened for public worship on the Feast of Holy Trinity. On All Saints' Day, ofthe same year, the translation from the old city to the new took place. The year following, on the 4th day of the calends of May, the foundation-stone of the new Cathedral was laid, with great pomp ; and a stone, with further donations, contributed by each of the prelates, peers, and others in authority, who graced the ceremony with their presence. On Michaelmas-day, 1225, the Cathedral, though not yet completed, was first used for divine service, having been solemnly dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the presence of Otho, the Pope's nuncio, and a splendid assembly of divines. f Bishop Poore next applied to King Henry the 3rd for a charter, to protect the Church, and the city, which was gradually rising around it, and to advance their mutual prosperity. For the better arrangement of houses and shops, the ground was divided into spaces of seven perches in length, and three in breadth ; these again were subdivided, to suit the convenience of settlers ; and their titles were secured to the awners of land and property, by the payment of a trifling quit-rent to the Church. On the translation of Richard Poore to Durham, his successor, Bingham, was left to carry on the works. In 1238, this prelate obtained a confirmation ofthe previous charter, and superintended the interests which devolved to his charge with uncommon zeal and liberality. Bingham died in 1246, and was succeeded by William of York, who, at the time of his death, ten years afterwards, had brought the fabric of the Church so near to its completion, that, in 1258, the whole was finished off and consecrated, in the presence of the King and Queen, by Boniface, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Egidius de Bridport, successor to the See of Salisbury. * The popular tradition of the spot being determined by an arrow, shot by a bowman, from the ramparts of Old Sarum, is humorously illustrated in the Salisbury Ballad, — a witty, but licentious, poem, written by Dr. Walter Pope, Chaplain to Seth Ward, Bishop of Salisbury, in the reign of Charles the 2nd. ¦f The bodies of Bishops Osmund, Roger, and Joceline were transferred, the same year, from the old Cathedral to the new ; but it was not till 1457, that the first of these Prelates was canonised. The importance of the town of Wilton had already been materially reduced, by the alteration of the great western road, which was now carried through East Harnham, over the bridge erected at Earl's Ford by Bishop Bingham. And now the city of Old Sarum appears to have been gradually deserted. The Cathedral, indeed, with some of the Prebendal Houses, remained for several years, and two Vicars were annually appointed,, after the year 1269, to give attendance at the service of the Church. But in 1331, by permission of Edward the 3rd, the whole was taken down, and the materials employed in the construction of the spire of the new Cathedral, as well as the walls and other buildings of the Close ; even as the remains of Babylon were removed to Bagdad, and those of Memphis to Grand Cairo. Old Sarum has now scarcely any vestiges of masonry remaining : but as a specimen of early fortification, it still presents, even in its present state of dilapidation, an extraordinary proof of the skill and resources of its occupants. The fortress consisted of two main divisions ; the principal square, or city, — and the keep, or citadel. In digging the outer ditch, the workmen heaped the earth partly inside and partly outside, so that a lofty mound defended the approach to it, whilst a rampart still more lofty, and surmounted by a wall, twelve feet in thickness, and of proportionate height, arose inside of it. This wall was strengthened by twelve towers placed at intervals, and the entrances on the East and West sides were commanded by lunettes, or half-moons. It is curious to observe, that the very same species of outwork is still employed, in the present state of fortification, to command the entrances to citadels. The whole of the conical knoll was 1600 feet in diameter, and about 4800 in circumference. In the centre of this vast entrenchment was the strong-hold, considerably higher than the rest, and where, if the outworks were forced, the garrison and inhabitants might retire with. safety. A well of immense depth supplied them with water ; and the wall, also of twelve feet in thickness, and enclosing a space of 500 feet in diameter, and about 1500 in circumference, would afford protection to a considerable multitude. The city was divided into two districts by a bank, surmounted by a wall, running from North to South, and so contrived as to present additional difficulties to an enemy. Of the walls, only two fragments now exist : one, very much dilapidated, at the Eastern entrance into the citadel ; the other, on the North side of the outer works, of which enough remains to show that it was built of flint imbedded in rubble, and coated with square stones of tolerable masonry, though evidently the labour of those days when height was considered the best protection against external force. Among the ruins of Old Sarum, a variety of Roman coins are found ; especially those of Adrian, Severus, Carausius, Constantinus, Julianus, Valentinianus, Theodosius, and Honorius. After the hard frost of 1795, a subterraneous passage, of solid masonry, was also discovered, with a flight of steps, supposed to lead, by a circuitous route, to the river ; and designed, no doubt, as a means of escape or communication in case of a blockade.* In very early days, Old Sarum gave a title to several families of distinction. Edrick, Duke of Mercia, was styled Earl of Salisbury. Walter Devereux had the same honour conferred upon him by the Conqueror. William Longspee, or Longsword,f natural son of Henry the 2nd and Fair Rosamond, received the same title. In the reign of Edward the 3rd it came to William Montacute ; and in that of James the 1st, to Robert Cecil, son of Lord Burleigh. Tlie property of the Castle was conferred, in 1447, on Lord Stourton, Treasurer of the Household to King Henry the 6th. By the attainder of Charles, 7th Lord Stourton, for the murder of the Hartgills, in the reign of Queen Mary, it returned to the crown, and was presented , by James the 1st, together with the title, to Robert Cecil. By James, 4th Earl of that name, the manor was sold, in 1690, to Governor Pitt, for the sum of 1500Z. ; and, after remaining for some years in the family of the Earl of Chatham, was sold to its present owner, Dupre Alexander, Earl of Caledon. This account may be not inappropriately closed by a most beautiful " Sonnet on Old Sarum," composed and communicated expressly for the present work, by the Rev. William Lisle Bowles, Canon Residentiary of Salisbury Cathedral : — Here stood the City of the Sun : look round ! Dost thou not see a visionary band, Druids, and bards, upon the summit stand Of this forsaken, but majestic, mound ? Dost thou not hear, at times, the acclaiming sound Of harps, as when the bards, in long array, Hail'd the ascending god of light and day ? No ! all is hush'd ; death's stillness, how profound ! In after years, here the Cathedral rose, Whose prelates now in yonder fane repose, Among the mighty of tiroes past away : For there her seat of rest Religion chose ; There, still to heaven, ascends the holy lay, And never may her shrines in wreck and silence close ! Returning, then, to the New City, we cannot do better than describe the Cathedral at length, in the correct and admirable language ofthe late Mr. Dodsworth : * An interesting account of this discovery, with engraved representations of the cavern, will be found in the Gentleman's Magazine of the above year, page 195. t Matthew Paris has furnished him with an Epitaph, adapted to his name :— " Floscomitum, Willhelmus, obit, stirpsregia; tongus " Ensis vaginam capit habere brevem." " Long-sword, his feats of warlike prowess past, " Finds a short scabbard long enough at last." " This magnificent structure consists of a nave and side-aisles, with transepts, forming a double cross. On the east of each transept is a side-aisle. The nave, choir, and transepts rise into an elevation of three tiers. The lower arches are of the lancet kind, supported by clustered columns, each composed of four pillars, with as many slender shafts. In the second tier, or gallery, answering to the roof of the aisles, the double arch, of the Norman style, is replaced by a flat pointed arch, subdivided into four smaller, which are varied with different sweeps or divisions, and ornamented alternately with quatrefoils, and rosettes of eight leaves. The upper or clere-story consists of triple windows, of the lancet shape. Between the middle arches are corbel heads, supporting clustered shafts, with a capital of foliage. From these rises the vaulting, which is plain, and turned with arches and cross-springers only. The columns dividing the principal transept from its aisle, consist of clusters of four, without shafts ; those of the smaller transept of two columns, with as many shafts. The upper stories of both transepts are similar to those of the nave. The lower arches of the choir, as well as those of the transepts, are enriched with an open zig-zag moulding ; and the space above the small lights of the upper windows is relieved with an ornament, resembling an expanded flower. " Throughout the vaulting, the intersection of the cross-springers is marked with a tuft of foliage ; and smaller tufts, or single leaves, are gracefully introduced in other parts of the building. The four arches at the principal intersection are also decorated with a rich moulding of rosettes. The windows of the side aisles are double lights of the lancet kind, unornamented without, but with slender shafts within. Those of the upper story, both internally and extern ally, are relieved with shafts. The mouldings are plain curves, and the bases and capitals of all the columns exactly similar. " On examining the exterior, we observe one of the first peculiarities which marked the pointed style. As this mode of building was less massive than that of the Normans, a new expedient was necessary to give it the .requisite solidity. Hence the walls are strengthened with buttresses of considerable projection, introduced in the intervals between the windows, as well as at the principal angles. Flying or arched buttresses are also concealed within the roofing of the aisles, to support the walls of the nave. " The projecting parts are marked with additional ornaments. The arches of the east end, the terminations of the transepts, and the front of the north porch, are embellished with shafts and mouldings, — simple, yet tasteful, and calculated to give a more elegant and elaborate, appearance to those portions which first strike the eye. The whole building, and likewise the ' cloister, are surmounted with a parapet wall, the style of which has been much admired. " But the west front was the part in which the architect has chosen to display his taste and fancy. The lancet and subdivided arches are here gracefully intermixed, and trefoil- headed niches, surmounted with pediments, terminating in trefoils, are profusely scattered over the whole front itself, as well as the sides and reverse of the square turrets, with which it is flanked. These originally contained images, which, to judge from the mutilated remnants still left, were in no wise contemptible, either for style or execution. Many of the string-courses and heads of the niches are decorated with an open zig-zag moulding ; and the division is marked by a fillet of lozenge work, enriched with trefoils and quatrefoils. A comparison of this front with the other parts of the structure, will prove that the design of the builder was to exhibit his power of combining grandeur with elegance and simplicity ; and that, if he was elsewhere sparing of his ornaments, it was from taste and judgment, not from poverty of imagination. " In the Lady Chapel, also, he has chosen to display the boldest and most striking specimen of his skill. It consists of a body and side-aisles, of the same breadth as the choir, divided from each other by alternate single and clustered columns, of peculiar lightness. These are scarcely nine inches in diameter, yet almost thirty feet in height, and are rendered stable only by the vast weight of the vaulted ceiling. " The lofty tower and spire were obviously not included in the original design ; the architecture being of a much richer and lighter species. The original finish was a species of lantern, built on the intersection of the grand transept and the nave, rising about eight feet above the roof, and ornamented internally with a colonnade, supporting a series of subdivided arches. " The choir appears to have been originally inclosed with a stone screen, standing on a deep plinth, broken into niches, with trefoil heads ; and ornamented with various kinds of sculpture. The same taste is observed in the niches or stalls of the Chapter-House. " The walls and buttresses are of Chilmark stone, brought from a village twelve miles distant. The pillars and shafts are of Purbeck marble. Those which sustain any pressure are laid according to their natural bed in the quarry ; while the ornamented shafts have their form inverted. These were not in general introduced in the order and course of the work ; but fixed with lead, in a socket purposely left, after the building had settled, and fastened to the pillars with a bandage of brass. The push of the vaulting answers nearly to an equilateral triangle. The groins and ribs are of stone ; but the shell between is of chalk mixed with stone, over which is laid a coat of inortar and rubble, apparently ground together, and poured on hot, so as to cement the whole into one entire substance. " At a short distance to the north of the Church, was a large and substantial belfry, which was probably erected at the same time as the principal building." * * History of Salisbury Cathedral, page 127 to 131. To the city of New Sarum, the beginning of the 14th century was perhaps the period of its utmost prosperity and renown. The novelty and splendour of the Cathedral had attracted universal admiration ; and the sums expended by the clergy, in its erection and support, had enriched the host of artisans, who were, in turn, employing their capital on the promotion of their trades, and the decoration of their city. But such is the constitution of the mind of man, that, after a little season of prosperity, he despises the sources of his own advancement. In 1 315, the citizens of Salisbury were moved to take offence at the controul and interference of the Church, and particularly at its wealth and magnificence. They accordingly petitioned the King for an exemption from this depend ency ; and the King, like an indulgent parent of his children, acceded to their request. The consequence was, that, before another twelvemonth had expired, the trade of the place, and, with its trade, its comfort and importance, were visibly declining : and the citizens were but too happy to appeal again to the royal clemency, and, with many professions of regret, to regain the patronage and protection of the Church.* Tranquillity and confidence were thus restored, and the Church and City flourished as before. Simon de Gondavo, who was now Bishop, proceeded to exercise the power assigned him by the crown, and directed the city to be fortified with a rampart and ditch. Besides the Bishop's Palace and the houses of the Canons Residentiary, the Church of St. Thomas, the Hospital of St. Nicholas, the Chapel of St. John, and the Colleges of St. Edmund and De Vaux, (which are described hereafter in their proper places,) had all risen into existence. Of the extent of the city at large, it may be enough to mention, that, among the Chapter and other records, we meet with references to the Butcher-Row, in 1217 ; to Castle-street, and the Free School, in 1 326 ; to Gigore, or Gigant-street, Wynemand-street, and Scots-lane, in 1334 ; to New- street and the Poultry-cross, in 1335; to High-street, in 1342; to Minster and Silver-streets, in 1345; to Endless-street, in 1348 ; to Catherine-street, in 1352 ; to Brown-street, in 1369 ; to Winchester-street, in 1377 ; and to Culver-street, in 1402. f In many instances, the shops, cellars, and store-houses are mi:iutely denoted and described. Of the City-gates, which reached across Winchester-street and Castle-street, the former was taken down in 1767, the latter, though leaving some few traces behind it, about twenty years afterwards. * In Price's Account of Salisbury Cathedral will be found a. variety of documents illustrative of this curious transaction. •f By statute of the 7th and last year of Edward VI. (1552), the number of Taverns in each town, throughout England, is limited to two ; Salisbury, with a few others, has a special license for three. One of the first consequences of an infringement on this wholesome regulation was, that the landlady of " The Silent Woman " was indicted for keeping a disorderly house ! D 10 There are also two sorts of public institutions, connected respectively with the ecclesi astical and civil history of almost every town of early notoriety, — the Monastic Houses, and the Chartered Companies. Two of the Religious Houses, and only two, can now be positively identified : one, a Franciscan Establishment for Grey Friars, or Friars Minors, at Bugmore Priory ; the other, a Dominican Establishment for Black Friars, or Friars Preachers, at Fisherton. The first of these was removed from Old Sarum ; the second existed not till the latter part of the 1 3th century. But it is probable that there were several others, of a later date, in Crane-street, New-street, or on the New Canal. The Halls of three of the Chartered Companies still remain ; the Joiners', in St. Anne- street ; the Tailors', in Milford-street ; and the Wool-Combers', in Church-street. A house, once occupied by the Weavers, in Endless-street, was not long since demolished. Two other establishments, of considerable reputation in Salisbury, may as well be mentioned in this place ; and those are the Public Grammar-Schools. The older of these is situated in the Close ; and was founded by Bishop Poore, for the education of the choristers of the Cathedral. The master is allowed to receive other pupils; and, in its best days, not much less than a hundred have assembled ; among others, the celebrated James Harris, of philological celebrity, here received the rudiments of education. Somewhat, though not much, more recent is the City School, in Castle-street, which was not founded, but only renewed and enlarged, by Queen Elizabeth : among other names recorded in its annals, are those of Simon Foreman, the astrologer ; Joseph Addison ; and Lord Chief Baron Eyre. The present School-Houses are both modern, as may be seen by the views engraved in Mr. J. C. Buckler's volume of Endowed Grammar-Schools. Meanwhile, the reign of Edward the 3rd had proved of signal value to the City of Salisbury. By his permission, a stone wall had been commenced around the Close, though not completed for many years afterwards ; and under his sanction, the Cathedral was now crowned with that beautiful and wonderful example of English science, taste, and workmanship, which has ever since continued, and probably ever will continue, without a rival. " It is needless," says Mr. Dodsworth, " to expatiate on the stupendous height, astonish ing lightness, and beautiful architecture, of the tower and spire. These have awakened the wonder and admiration of every beholder. But the manner in which the design was executed, is no less extraordinary than the boldness with which it was planned ; and shows the architect to have possessed a mind confident in its vast resources, and unchecked either by difficulties or danger. " The original finish of the edifice, as has been already observed, was a lantern, orna- 11 mented with a colonnade within, and rising eight feet above the present roof. The wall in this part is only two feet thick, built with hewn stone, without and within, but filled in the middle with flints and rubble. Into this was inserted a course of stone, a foot thick, parallel to the declivity of the roof, as a water-table for the lead covering. Notwithstanding the frailty of so slender a foundation, the architect trusted to the additional strength of braces, or flying buttresses, to sustain the intended fabric. Of these, which were either originally built, or raised in the progress of the building, Price enumerates no less than one hundred and twelve, amounting together to 387 superficial feet, in addition to the 260 feet which are contained in the original arcade. Beside these, additional solidity was given by walling up the door-ways, left for a communication with the upper windows, and by numerous bars and bandages of iron, particularly one about the upper part of the arcade, which embraces it within and without, and was ranked, by Sir Christopher Wren, among the best pieces of smith's-work, in Europe, for the time. From the nature of the structure, it is probable also, that the counter arches in the eastern transept were among the earliest contrivances to resist the pressure on that side of the building, occasioned by the weight of the tower and spire. " On this foundation the architect erected his wonderful superstructure, consisting of a tower and spire, rising to the height of 387 feet from the ground. According to the mode of the work, the tower consists of three stories. The first is the original finish, terminating with an embattled moulding, a few feet above the roof. The walls of the second are six feet thick, with large piers, and narrow windows. From some apprehension for the safety of the fabric, which evidently began to yield and fracture, with the vast pressure, the third story is reduced to a hollow light work, consisting of pilasters and recesses. Below the finish of the tower, two bandages of iron are discovered, connected with each other ; and others are doubtless concealed within the walls. " As the spire is octagonal, four arches were thrown across the four angles of the tower, to form the foundation, which are strengthened with cramps of iron. These having no abutment, except the bandages wrought into the walls, the architect contrived to supply the defect, by raising pinnacles on the angles, which at once confine the arches, and blend the square form of the tower with the octagon of the spire. At this part, also, which was expected to suffer from mechanical pressure, he again recurred to a bandage of iron, formed of a two-inch bar, covered with lead, which is inserted in the order and course of the work. " The wall of the tower is here five feet in thickness. Of these, two feet are employed for the foundation of the spire, two for the passage round, and one for the parapet. The walls of the spire diminish gradually within, till, meeting with the upright of the inside, at the height of 12 about twenty feet, they are reduced to nine inches, which is the thickness of the shell of stone to the summit. " In this part of the structure, the architect has shown the same fertility of resource as in the preceding. To add artificial strength, without a proportionate increase of the weight, he contrived a timber frame, consisting of a central piece, with arms and braces, which served the purpose of a scaffold during the progress of the work. This frame was carried up till the tapering form of the spire became too confined to admit a timber floor ; and when the pile was finished, it was suspended from the cap-stone, by means of the iron bar which bears the vane. Nor is his ingenuity less extraordinary in the mechanism of this frame itself, and the means he has devised to render it capable of partial repair. The central piece is not mortised to receive the arms, which served as floors ; but, by means of a hoop of iron, to which the braces are attached, they may be taken out singly, and inserted at pleasure. The same care is shown in the junction of the iron bar, at the top, with the frame of timber. " Singular as the mechanism of this structure must appear, the taste and elegance of the design are not less worthy of admiration. Although the work is highly elaborate, and enriched with a profusion of finials, trefoils, roses, and other ornaments which marked the style of building about the beginning of the fourteenth century, the architect has judiciously introduced an embattled moulding, like the original finish, round the turrets which crown the angles of the tower ; and both in the tower and spire he has repeated the band of lozenge-work, enriched with trefoils and quatrefoils, which produces so pleasing an effect in the west front. To judge from the style of the ornamental parts, he added also the pinnacles which rise from the different angles of the Church. Thus the tower and spire, though varying in character from the rest of the structure, yet display no incongruity to offend the most fastidious eye ; but are skilfully blended with the first design, and appear only as a light and elegant finish to the whole." * Scarcely, however, was the spire completed, before it was discovered that the boldness of the architect had endangered the safety of the Cathedral. Notwithstanding the ingenuity displayed in the adjustment of the new parts, the extraordinary pressure of so vast a pile had produced the most serious fractures in the vaulting underneath the tower ;f and so early as the * History of the Cathedral, page 147 to 150. + There is an old tradition, derived, no doubt, from the character of the trade, and the humidity of the soil of Salisbury, that the Cathedral was built on -wool-packs. It is also pretended, that from every part of the building,— gates, pillars, and windows,— this moral may be drawn ;— that there is no portion of time, in the life of man, unconnected with its appropriate duties. One Mr. Daniel Rogers, a poet of tlie 17th century, has thus commemorated the tradition :— " Mira canam ; soles quot continet annus, in una " Tam numerosa (ferunt) axle fenestra micat ; " Marmoreasque capit fusas tot ab arte columnas, " Comprensas boras quot vagus annus habet : 13 year 1416, considerable expense was incurred in schemes to counteract the visible approach of ruin. Of the Hungerford * and Beauchamp Chapels, erected on the north and south sides of the Lady Chapel, and now destroyed, descriptions will be found hereafter. That which stands on the north side of the choir was there constructed by Bishop Audley, at the beginning of the 15th century; that on the south, was erected by the father of the Lord Hungerford before alluded to, between the second and third piers of the nave, and was removed to its present position in the time of Bishop Hume. But one of the most famous monuments in this Cathedral, as connected with a curious custom of the Popish Church, is that of the Boy-Bishop, which lies near the western-entrance of the nave, and which may be attributed to the commencement of the 13th century. " St. Nicholas" (to quote the narrative of Mr. Dodsworth) " was anciently considered as the patron of children. In the Golden Legend we are told, that ' his father and mother, when he was born, made him a christian, and called him Nicholas, that is, a man's name ; but he kept the name of a child, for he chose to keep virtues, meekness, and simplicity, and without " Totque patent portee, quot mensibus annus abundat : — " Res mira, at vera res celebrata fide." " As many days as in one year there he, " So many windows in this Church we see ; " As many marble pillars here appear, " As there are hours throughout the fleeting year ; " As many gates, as moons one year doth view : — " Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true !" * The following Inscriptions, once upon the walls of the Hungerford Chapel, deserve to be preserved : — I. Over the Figure of a Beau. " Alasse, Dethe, alasse, a blessful thyng yow were, " Yf thow wolldyst spare us in our lustynesse, " And cu' to wretches yet bethe of hevy chere, " When they ye clepe to slake there dystresse. " But owte, alasse, thyne owne sely selfwyldnesse " Crewelly werieth them yt seyghe, wayle, and wepe, " To close there yen yt after ye doth clepe." II. Over the Figure of Death. " Grasles galante, in all thy luste and pryde " Remembyr yt thow ones schalte dye ; " Dethe shold fro thy body thy sowle devyde, " Thou mayst him not ascape certaynly. " To ye dede bodys cast downe thyne ye, " Behold thaym well, consydere and see " For such as they are. such shalt yow be," 14 malice. While he lay in his cradle, he fasted Wednesdays and Fridays : those days he would suck but once in the day, and therewith was well pleased. Thus he lived all his life in virtue, with his child's name. And therefore children worship him before all other saints.' " On the day sacred to this patron of childhood, the choristers annually chose one of their number, who was called the Bishop of the Boys, or Choristers. From his election, till the night of Innocent's Day, he bore the name and state of a bishop, was pontifically habited, carried a pastoral staff, and wore a mitre, frequently surpassing in richness those of real prelates. His fellow-choristers likewise assumed the style of canons, or prebendaries. On the eve of Innocent's Day they performed the same service, except the mass, as was performed by the bishop himself, with the other members of the church. They went in procession, through the west door, to the Altar of the Holy Trinity, habited in copes, with lighted tapers, and took precedence of the dean and canons-residentiary. Afterwards the Chorister Bishop appeared in the first Chapter, and was allowed to receive all the offerings made at the altar the day of the procession." * If the Chorister Bishop died within the limit of his episcopacy, he was interred with corresponding honours ; which appear, from the mitre and crosier, to have descended even to his monumental effigy. Another curious monument, nearly opposite the last, is that of Charles Lord Stourton, who was hung in the Market-place of Salisbury, March 6th, 1556, for the murder of Mr. Hartgill and his son, of Kilmington, Somerset. It is a plain flat tomb, with three apertures on each side, representing six wells or fountains, the arms of the Stourton family, indicative of the six sources of the Stour, which rise near the family mansion of Stourhead, now the seat of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, Bart. The silken halter with which he was hung, was suspended over his tomb, in memorial of the offence, till the year 1775, when the Dean and Chapter connived at its removal. Pursuing the history of the Cathedral, we find the ravages of the Commonwealth in some measure compensated by the care of Seth Waid, who had been appointed to the bishopric in 1666. By his solicitation, King Charles the 2d dispatched his architect, Sir Christopher Wren, in the summer of 1669, to take a survey ofthe fabric, and to direct the necessary repairs. An abstract of the architect's report is preserved by Mr. Dodsworth. " After describing the structure, he notices the defects in the original design, and the decays produced by age or accidents. ' The faults ofthe original design are three : the want of care in establishing the foundation, the lowness of the floor, which was not sufficiently raised to obviate the fear of inundations, and the defect in the poise of the building, the substructions being too slender for • History of the Cathedral, page 138, 9. 15 the weights above.' He then adverts to the faults of the tower and spire. ' Of the four pillars on which it stands,' he observes, ' those towards the west have sunk, but not equally ; that to the south-west seven or eight inches, that to the north-west half as much. This occasioned the tower and spire to lean towards the south-west.' This decline he roughly calculated to be 27 1 inches to the south, and 17 J to the west. He urges, however, the expediency of making a more accurate trial, and repeating the experiment from time to time, to discover if the decline continued. After suggesting the proper repairs, he continues by noticing the smaller defects of the steeple. ' One of the four pinnacles, built on the arches from which the spire begins to rise, has been shaken by some storm of lightning, as well as the wall of the spire, which adheres to it. Ofthe door leading into the pinnacle, one of the jambs has also given way, and occasioned divers large cracks in the space above it, which, being on the declining side, much weakens the spire, and calls for speedy amendment.' He adds, ' there are other decays in the spire ; and the higher you go, the more. Some are the effects of the decline, and others of tempests by which it has been shaken. Those towards the top are particularly of this nature. Hence many stones, chiefly those which lie out of their natural bed, are frusted or riven with downward cracks in the thickness of the stone.' To remedy these defects he strongly recommends the example of the original architect, who trusted much to iron, and suggests the application of iron bandages. Lastly, he states the necessity of repairing the timber-work within, and facilitating the ascents, that faults may be sooner discovered and amended." * In consequence of this advice, the hoops or bandages, which bind the spire together, were put up ; the choir was newly paved ; and other repairs and renovations carried into effect. But in 1681, the calculations made by Sir Christopher Wren, relative to the declinations of the spire, became unsatisfactory ; and a new experiment was therefore made by Mr. Naish, clerk of the works, by means of a plumb-line, fixed at the weather-door. This experiment was repeated, by Mr. Mill, of London, with still greater accuracy, under the direction of Bishop Sherlock, in 1737 ; when the declination was calculated at 22 J inches to the south-west: and the result was marked on the pavement under the tower, as a guide for future observations. In the years 1431, 1560, and 1641, the top of the spire had been struck by lightning, and a cleft of twenty feet in length occasioned. And now, on the 21st of June, 1741, a similar catastrophe threatened the whole fabric with destruction. About ten o'clock at night, a violent storm of thunder arose, and a flash of lighting was seen to strike against the upper part of the tower. The next morning the sexton was alarmed by indications of fire ; when it was ascertained that the electric fluid had penetrated through the wall, and set fire to one of the • History of the Cathedral, page 172, 3. 16 timber-braces.* The flames had just begun to spread, the ascending sparks to communicate with the ladders at the eight-doors, and the burning fragments with the floor, just above the roof. Prompt assistance, however, was given, and in two hours the danger was effectually overcome; but marks ofthe conflagration may be still discerned upon the timbers. + In the beginning of the last century, the declination of the spire was again surveyed by Mr. Price, clerk of the works ; and the results of his examination are very curious. " He states that it is not in a direct line, as if occasioned by any single cause. At the height of eighty- nine feet, or just above the vaulting of the nave, there is a decline of § of an inch southward, and g westwards. This he attributes to the unequal pressure of the grand arches. At the top of the parapet wall of the tower, or 207 feet above the pavement, the decline to the south is 9 inches, and west 3g ; at the bottom of the weather-door, 358 feet from the ground, the decline to the south is 20 inches, and west 12J ; lastly, at the top of the capstone, 387 feet high, the decline is 24J inches south, and west 16J."t In affixing a new vane, in 1762, Mr. Lush, clerk of the works, made a curious discovery. On the south side of the cap-stone appeared a cavity ; in this cavity was concealed a round leaden box, with a loose lid ; and in this leaden box, another box, neatly carved in wood, with an opening in the side, where a piece of silk, or fine linen, so decayed as nearly to resemble tinder, had been carefully stowed away. There can be little doubt that the treasure, so curiously secreted, was a relic of the Virgin Mary, probably deposited in that place, when the spire was completed, as a charm or talisman to secure the Church from accident. Under Bishop Hume, the clerestory of the choir was decorated, at the expense of the Earl of Radnor, with a window of stained glass, designed by Mortimer, and executed by Pearson. It represents the elevation of the brazen serpent in the wilderness, and may be reckoned among the most successful efforts of modern imitation, § and very superior to that of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Egington, in the Lady Chapel. || * Since the Church has been provided with conductors, no accident by lightning has occurred. In the years 1672 and 1724, the spire was endangered by the carelessness of the plumbers : but no alarms of this sort have been given in later years. t The quantity of timber in the several roofs of the Cathedra has been computed at 2G41 tons of British oak. J Dodsworth's History of the Cathedral, page 170. § Great praise is due to Mr. Beare, the present clerk of the works, for his uncommon skill and taste in collecting the materials of which the great west window is composed. It is really an admirable performance, and would do credit to any Cathedral in Europe. There are also several modern monuments, in the Gothic style, entitled to more than ordinary attention. || In the original sketch, submitted by Sir Joshua to the Bishop, although our Lord was represented as risen from the tomb, the tomb was still left closed and sealed. The Bishop remonstrated, but the painter persisted that he had only made the miracle the greater; and it was not without much difficulty that he was prevailed upon to correct the design. 17 Of the memorable repairs, executed by Wyatt, at the suggestion of Bishop Barrington, the writer of these pages would desire to say as little as possible. No man, possessed of the slightest knowledge of ancient art, can fail to regret a series of wanton innovations, apparently conducted without any object, and notoriously deficient in those very effects they were chiefly expected to produce. Out of the catalogue of spoliations at this time committed, it will be sufficient to enume rate the following :— the desecration of the Hungerford and Beauchamp Chapels, and the removal of the porch of the north transept ; the demolition of the screen which separated the Lady Chapel from the chancel,* and the elevation of the pavement so as to alter all the proportions of the former ; the removal of the Saints' Chapels from the western transept, and of the rood-loft f from the choir; the disarrangement of monuments from their appropriate places, to line the sides of the nave ; the destruction of the belfry-tower ; and the levelling of the graves in the church-yard. Unfortunately, what was done scarcely deserves less censure than what was left undone. The organ-screen,! choir-stalls, and stone seats round the altar, are worse than the tasteless bijouteries of Strawberry Hill. The following are the exterior dimensions of the Cathedral : — Extreme length 473 feet. Width of the west front Ill Extreme width (transepts) : 274 Height ofthe west front 130 Height of the original tower 207 Height ofthe spire § 400 * In the Rev. S. H. Cassan's Lives of the Bishops of Salisbury is given a design, by Buckler, for the restoration of the altar-screen, accompanied by a Letter on the subject from Sir R. C. Hoare. ¦f The rood-loft was a sort of gallery, containing the crucifix or rood, and the images of saints, particularly of the patron or patroness of the church. It was placed at the entrance of the chancel, that those who' approached the altar might pass under it. As the body of the church represented the church militant, and the chancel the church triumphant, its situation was intended to denote, that Christians, in imitation of their Redeemer, must bear the cross, or undergo affliction. J His Majesty's gift of a new organ, and the manner in which it was conferred, must be recorded. The King enquired of Bishop Barrington, whom he knew to be the projector and patron of the intended alterations, what these alterations were to be, and by what means the expense was to be defrayed. The Bishop described the alterations, and stated that a new organ was much wanted ; though he feared that it would greatly exceed their means, which depended on the voluntary contributions of gentlemen belonging to the counties of Berks and Witts, of which the diocese consists. The King immediately replied, " I desire that you will accept of a new organ for your cathedral, being my contribution as a Berkshire gentleman." — The old organ-screen was partly used for the Baptistery, or Morning Chapel, and partly for the altar of St. Martin's Church. Till this time, the sermon was preached from a stone pulpit in the Nave. § The steeple of old St. Paul's, principally of wood covered with lead, was 525 feet high ; that of the present St. Paul's is 365 or 370 feet ; the Monument of London, 202 feet. St. Peter's, at Rome, stands 437 feet from the ground; Strasbourgh Cathedral, 456 feet ; the Cathedral of Vienna, 465 feet. An anecdote, connected with this subject, is told of Charles the Second, who never said a foolish thing, and never did F 18 The Cloisters of Salisbury Cathedral are very spacious and noble ; the arches finely turned, and the mouldings bold and elegant. The area of the quadrangle is now used as a burial-ground for the Close. The Chapter-House is one of the most beautiful apartments in England, — an octagon, fifty-eight feet in diameter, and fifty-two in height, resting, in the centre, on a single and slender shaft of Purbeck marble. Round the walls appear a range of stone seats for the Dean and Chapter, and other dignitaries ; while, under the bases of the windows, are displayed a series of sculptures, in high relief, descriptive of portions of Sacred History, from the creation of the world, to the overthrow of Pharaoh and the Hosts of Egypt in the Red Sea. In this building the Parliamentary Commissioners held their sessions during the great Rebellion ; and many a wanton mutilation still records the antipathy of the Puritans to graven images. The Library, which is indebted to Bishop Osmund for its first institution, is a convenient room, extending over one side of the Cloisters, and said to have been built by Bishop Jewell. It contains about one hundred and thirty MSS., including a contemporary transcript of Magna Charta ; and the Breviary and Missal for the use of Salisbury ; * besides a respectable body of miscellaneous divinity, the most part donations of the Clergy connected with the Cathedral, f Engravings of the Chapter-house and Cloisters will be found in the volumes of Dodsworth and Britton ; of the Muniment-room, which is over the Vestry, a repre sentation is given in the present volume. The Corporation of Salisbury dates its rise from the Charter of the 1 Ith year of King Henry the 3rd (1227), when the freedom of the City was established, and Nicholas de Brockeby elected the first Mayor. On his secession, however, the office continued vacant for fifty-one a wise one. On the occasion of a Royal Visit to Salisbury, a sailor had the temerity to mount the vane of the Cathedral, and there, with his hat in his hand, to give three cheers for the ruling monarch. On the strength of this exploit, the tar was introduced to the King for a reward : " Reward, eh ! reward ? " said Charlie ; " well, take a patent for your reward ; no one but yourself shall bestride the weathercock of Salisbury, from this time forth, without a special licence," * This celebrated Book of Services was composed by Bishop Osmund, who also wrote a memoir of St. Aldhelm, founder ef the Abbey of Malmesbury. It contains the Sacraments and other Rites and Ceremonies of the Roman-Catholic Church, and was honoured with a most extensive circulation. The language is chiefly Latin, but occasionally interspersed with samples of Old English, especially in the administration of baptism, and of matrimony. For more lengthened descriptions of the work, accompanied by extracts, the reader is referred to the 4th and 5th vols, of Dr. Aikin's Athenscum, and to the Gentleman's Magazine for 1817- Among the printed books here collected, is the very copy of this Missal (printed by Prevost, 1526), which formerly belonged to King Henry the Eighth. It came afterwards into the possession of Bishop Burnet, from whose days we lose sight of it till the year 1767, when it was contributed, by an individual unknown, to be sold for the benefit of the new Infirmary ; on which occasion it was purchased by the Dean and Chapter, and deposited in the Cathedral Library. + A Mass-Book, of the time of Edward the 4th, preserves a list of relics, belonging to the Cathedral of Salisbury, amounting to no less than two hundred and thirty-four, divided into the separate classes of Apostles, Martyrs, Confessors, and Virgins. 19 years, when William Trevour was elected under the new Charter, granted by King Edward the 1st, and afterwards confirmed by Queen Anne, and a regular succession of Chief Magistrates commenced. Of the old and new Council-House, with the Guildhall, and other Courts,* a descrip tion will be found in subsequent pages of this book. The following account of the catastrophe, which led to the demolition of the former, is extracted from the Salisbury and Winchester Journal, of November 20th, 1780 : — " On Wednesday, Joseph Hinxman, Esq., Mayor elect for the ensuing year, was sworn into his office, and the same day made a very grand entertainment for the Corporation in the Council-Chamber, and invited the nobility, gentry, and clergy of the City, Close, and neighbour hood, also the corps of officers of the 1 1th regiment of dragoons, quartered here, of whom there was a numerous and genteel appearance. After the dinner (which was elegant, and well served up), many loyal and constitutional toasts were drunk, and the evening concluded with the usual festivity and good humour. " We are sorry to add, that the next morning produced a scene very different ; for soon after five o'clock part of the attic story of the Council-House was discovered to be on fire. The flames soon spread all over the gallery, and formed a very large and lofty perpendicular blaze of fire, which illuminated the whole Market-place, and for near an hour afforded a very awful and alarming appearance to the whole city, to which the height of the building greatly contri buted. The fire engines were procured with all possible expedition, and by their assistance, and the great activity of the people, which deserves much commendation, the fire was got under before nine o'clock ; and the lower part of the fabric, containing the Courts of Justice, and the south end, were preserved. The part destroyed is, nevertheless, so great, that we apprehend what remains must be taken down, which we hear is intended to be done, and that an elegant and commodious Town-Hall will be built, on arches, in its stead, in a more convenient place, and contain commodious courts for the assizes, &c, and the space where the remains of the old building now stand, being added to the Market-place, will make it as handsome a square as most in England. It is thought this accident happened from making too great a fire in the tea-room, and thereby kindling some concealed timbers ; on the other hand, it is supposed to have been occasioned by a lighted candle left in the store-room in the upper story, where the wines, &c, were kept, and which, it is imagined, set fire to the straw in which the liquors had been packed. By the activity of the sergeants, beadles, and some of the inhabitants, the * The County Gaol continued to be used at Old Sarum as late as the year 1569, when it was removed to Fisherton- Anger, the spot now attached to the east wing of the Infirmary. The new Gaol was erected in 1822. 20 corporation-chests, containing the charters, records of the city (some very curious from their antiquity), and other writings, are preserved, as are also the paintings in the Council-Chamber. The plate, linen, &c. being in the upper part of the building, little or nothing could be saved ; but since the fire great part of the plate has been found in the rubbish, but mostly in a battered or melted state. Happily no lives were lost, nor did any accident happen, except to a boy who fell from the leads, but was not much hurt. It fortunately happened to be a very still morning, and not the least wind stirring, or in all human probability the flames would have spread to a large range of old buildings that stood very near, and destroyed a whole chequer. The struc ture was Gothic, and, from the preservation and strength of the timbers, it is conjectured it would have braved the effect of time for a century to come. The Council-Chamber was a large and spacious room, and the windows contained, in painted glass, the arms of England, the arms ofthe City, ofthe Earl of Pembroke, &c. " It may not be amiss to take notice, that the assizes were originally held in the Guildhall, over the Town Gaol ; the present courts were then an open market, and have been since inclosed. It appears, by ancient records, that on the spot where this Council or Town-house was built, there grew a very large elm tree, under which a market, called the Yarn-Market, was held weekly, and, in the year 1477, was inclosed with a wall. In the year 1579, Christopher Weeks then Mayor, the first pillar was set up at the east end for erecting the Council-House.* 1584, William Brown, Mayor, the new Council-House was finished. 1585, Robert Bower, Mayor, the Council-House was first made use of. 1633, Robert Bee, Mayor, the piazza, opposite the Nisi Prius Court, was erected. 1683, Andrew Bording, Mayor, it was continued opposite the Assize Hall. 1719, Thomas Wentworth, Esq., Mayor, kept his feast in the Council Chamber, by consent of council : until this period it was usual for the Mayor to entertain the Corporation at his own house," — the Mansion-House, in Castle-street. It is a remarkable circumstance in the history of New Sarum, that two distinct attempts have been made to open a commercial communication by water with the sea-coast, and that both have proved unsuccessful. The former of these was first proposed in the " Discovery by Sea from London to Salisbury," — a strange medley of prose and verse, written by one John Taylor, known by the title of the water-poet, in allusion to his occupation as a boatman on the River Thames. This notable and honest wight took it into his head to start from London one " Some variations will be found in the date of erection according to this account, when compared with the description of the plate ; the fact is, that the same discordance occurs in many part of the Corporation Records. From these documents we may also quote an anecdote, connected with the subject, and illustrative of the last age of superstition : " 1688. King James came into the Market-place (on his route against the Prince of Orange), and made a speech, in which he said, that he would maintain the Protestant Religion as long as he had a drop of blood in his body ; and immediately his nose fell a bleeding. Then the cross and crown was blown off from the Council-House." 21 July morning, in the year 1623, with a crew of five souls on board a wherry, rowing round the north foreland of the Isle of Thanet, and along the southern coast to Christchurch Harbour, for the express purpose of beating his way up the river to Salisbury, and ascertaining the possibility of rendering the Avon a navigable river. The publication is addressed to the inhabitants and friends of Salisbury ; and after enumerating in verse the " hair-breadth 'scapes" of the party by sea, proceeds, in simple prose, to a discussion of this memorable project. " This," he says, " being entered into my consideration, that your city is so much overcharged with poor, as having in three parishes near 3000, besides decayed men a great many, and that those few which are of the wealthier sort, are continually overpressed with sustaining the wants of the needy, the city being as it were at the last gasp, the poor being like Pharaoh's lean kine, even ready to eat up the fat ones ; I have made bold to write this treatise ensuing, both to entreat a constant perseverance in those who have begun to do good works, and an encouragement or animating of all others, who, as yet, seem slow in these good proceedings. " It is sufficiently known, that my intent and purpose, at this time, was not to make any profit to myself, upon any adventure (as it is deemed by many) by my passage from London to Salisbury with a wherry, but I was entreated by a waterman, which was born in Salisbury, that I would bear him company, for the discovery of the sands, flats, depths, shoals, mills, and wears, which are impediments and lets, whereby the river is not navigable from Christchurch, or the sea, to Salisbury. Which, after many dangerous gusts and tempestuous storms at sea (which I have recited in verse before), it pleased God that at last we entered the river, which, in my opinion, is as good a river, and, with some change, may be made as passable as the river of Thames is upwards from Brentford to Windsor, or beyond it ; the shallow places in it are not many, the mills need not be removed, and, as for the wears, no doubt but they may with conscience be compounded for. By which means of navigation, the whole city and country would be relieved, loiterers turned into labourers, penury into plenty, to the glory of God, the dignity and reputation of your city, and the perpetual worthy memory of all benefactors and well-willers unto so noble a work. " If you will but examine your own knowledge, you shall find that in the whole dominion of England there is not any one town or city, which hath a navigable river at it, that is poor; nor scarce any that are rich, which want a river with the benefits of boats. The town of Kingston-upon-Hull, in Yorkshire, the river there was cut out of Humber, by men's labour, twenty miles up into the country ; and what the wealth and estate of that town is (by the only benefit of that river), it is not unknown to thousands : but you men of Sarum may see what a G 22 commodity navigation is nearer hand ; there is your neighbour, Southampton, on the one side, and your dear friend, Poole, on the other, are a pair of handsome looking-glasses for you, where you may see your want in their abundance, and your negligence in their industry, " God had placed your being in a fertile soil, in a fruitful valley, environed round with corn, and, as it were, continually besieged with plenty : whilst you within (having so many poor amongst you) are rather lookers upon happiness than enjoyers : moreover (by God's appoint ment) Nature hath saved you the labour of cutting a river, for I think you have one there as old as your city, ready made to your hands : if you will be but industrious to amend those impediments in it, I dare undertake to be one of the three or four men which shall bring or carry sixteen or twenty tons of goods betwixt the sea and your city. Now, with extreme toil of men, horses, and carts, your wood is brought to you eighteen or twenty miles, whereby the poor, which cannot reach the high prices of your fuel, are enforced to steal or starve in the winter ; so that all your near adjoining woods are continually spoiled by them. Which faults, by the benefit of the river, would be reformed : for the New Forest standeth so near to the water, that it is but cut the wood, and put it into a boat, which shall bring as much to your city as twenty carts, and four-score horses : besides, by this river you might draw to you a trade of sea-coal, which would enrich you, and help the plain and inland towns and villages, where no wood grows. And for the exportation of your corn, from port to port, within our own country, as it is well known what abundance of your barley is continually made into malt amongst you; which, if you had carriage for it, might be brewed into beer, wherewith you may serve divers places with your beer, which is now served with your malt : besides carriages of bricks, tiles, stones, charcoals, and othe necessaries, which is now carried at dear rates by horse or carts, which now you send in carts, or on horses' backs, to Southampton, to Bristol, and to many other places : so that the dearness of the carriages eats up all your commodities and profit ; which discommodity may be avoided, if your river be cleansed : and what man can tell what good in ¦• time may redound to your city from the sea, by foreign goods, which may be brought into Christchurch haven by shipping ? Nor can it be truly imagined what new and useful profitable business may arise in time by this means. " I am assured that there are many good men in the city and county of Wiltshire, and others of worth and good respect in this kingdom, who would willingly and bountifully assist this good work ; but (like gossips near a stile) they stand straining courtesy who shall go first : or the mice in the fable, not one will adventure to hang the bell about the cat's neck : so that if one good man would begin, it would be (like a health drank to some beloved prince at a great feast) pledged most heartily, and, by God's grace, effected most happily. You have 23 already begun a charitable work amongst you ; I mean, your common town brewhouse ; the profit of which, you intend shall be wholly employed for the supply of the poor and impo- tents, which live in your city. . . . Now, to turn from beer and ale to fair water (your river I mean), which if it be cleansed, then, with the profit of your town brewhouse, and the commodity of the river, I think there will be scarce a beggar or a loiterer amongst you. I have written enough before concerning the benefit of it, and to encourage such as seem slow towards so good a work; which had it been in the Low Countries, the industrious Dutch would not so long have neglected so beneficial a blessing; witness their abundance of navigable rivers and ditches, which, with the only labour of men they have cut, and, in most places, where never God or nature made any river. And, lately, there is a river made navigable to St. Yeades, in Huntingdonshire, wherein stood seven mills, as impediments in the way : and now the city of Canterbury are clearing their river, that boats may pass to and fro betwixt them and Sandwich haven: the like is also in hand at Leeds, in Yorkshire. Now, if neither former or present examples can move you, if your own wants cannot inforce you, if assured profit cannot persuade you, but that you will still be neglective and stupid, then I am sorry that I have written so much to so little purpose ; but my hopes are otherwise. If all blind, lame, and covetous excuses be laid aside, then those who are willing will be more willing, and those who are slack or backward will, in some reasonable manner, draw forward. And there is the mouth of an uncharitable objection which I must needs stop, which is an old one, and only spoken by old men ; for, say they, we are aged and stricken in years ; and if we should lay out our monies, or be at charges for the river, by the course of nature we shall not live to enjoy any profit to requite our costs. This excuse is worse than heathenish, and, therefore, it ill becomes a Christian ; for, as I wrote before, man was not created, or had either the goods of mind, body, or fortune, bestowed on him by his Maker, but that he should have the least part of them himself; his God, prince, and country claiming, as their due, almost all which every man hath. The oldest man will purchase land, which is subject to barrenness and many inconveniences ; he will buy and build houses, which are in danger of fire, and divers other casualties ; he will adventure upon wares or goods at high prices, which to his loss may fall to low rates ; he will bargain for cattle and sheep, who are incident to many diseases, as the rot, the murrain, and divers the like ; and all this will he do in hope to raise his state, and leave his heirs rich. At his death, perhaps (when he can keep his goods no longer, — when, in spite of his heart, he must leave all), he will give a few gowns and a little money to pious uses, a gross or two of penny loaves, and there's an end of him, so that there remains no more memory of him. 24 " But this good work of your river is not subject to barrenness or sterility, but, contrarily, it will be a continual harvest of plenty ; it is not in danger of being consumed or wasted, but it is assured of a perpetual increase. The names and memories of contributors towards it shall be conserved in venerable and laudable remembrance, to the eternising of their fames, the honour of their posterities, and the good example of succeeding times to imitate. Therefore, you men of Salisbury, I entreat you in this case to be good to yourselves ; or else you may say hereafter, if we had been industrious, we had been happy ; if we had not been covetous, we had been rich." The scheme was actively espoused about forty years afterwards, under the patronage of Seth Ward, Bishop of Salisbury, who not only contributed both his advice and money towards the work, but actually dug the first spadeful of the soil with his own hand. Among the Corporation Records a list of the subscribers may be seen : but the project never answered, nor seems likely to be ever again renewed." The other attempt was made not many years ago, when a plan for uniting Salisbury to Southampton, by a canal to Redbridge, was so far carried into effect, that the work was brought up within a few miles of the city, at an enormous outlay of money and labour, and then suddenly abandoned. Unless the line of communication should be used at some future time as a rail-road for over-land conveyance by steam, it will probably remain a monu ment of the frailty of human purposes, and the fallibility of human calculations, for evermore. Salisbury has been always celebrated for the number and munificence of its charitable institutions. Several of the more ancient of these have been already noticed. Of the more recent we may mention — 1. The Widows' College, in the Close, founded by Bishop Ward in 1682, and described hereafter. — 2. The Trinity Hospital, in Trinity-street, originally founded in New-street by John Chandeler, in the year 1394, but restored by Mr. Henry Fox, of Farley, an ancestor of the present Lord Holland, and augmented by Mr. Moulton, formerly a builder in this city. The present building dates only from 1702.— 3. Bricket's Alms-Houses, in Exeter-street, founded in 1519, by Thomas Bricket, who died in his mayoralty, in 1.533; they were rebuilt by general subscription in 1780.— 4. Eyre's Alms-Houses, near Winchester Gate, founded by Christopher Eyre, in 1617. — 5. Blechynden's Alms-Houses, in Winchester- street, founded by Margaret Blechynden, in 1683.— 6. Taylor's Alms-Houses, opposite St. * The canals which run through the streets of Salisbury have obtained for it the magnificent title of " The English Venice." One Francis Hyde, who was born in the capital of Wilts, and died in the office of Secretary on an embassage to the republic of the Adriatic, was thus commemorated by a fellow-citizen of the 17th century : " Born in the English Venice, thou didst die, " Dear friend, in the Italian Salisbury." 25 Edmund's Church, founded by Mr. John Taylor, in 1689. — 7. Frowd's Alms-Houses, in Bedwin-street, a spacious and handsome pile, built and endowed by Mr. Edward Frowd, in 1750. Within thirty years afterwards, one of Mr. Frowd's descendants applied, unsuccessfully, for admission. — And 8. Hayter's Alms-Houses, in the principal street of Fisherton, founded by Mrs. Sarah Hayter, in 1797. — There are also six poor tenements in Culver-street, held free of rent, but without further emolument, which are said to have been provided for the use of the infirm and indigent by Bishop Poore : the present buildings are comparatively modern. But by far the most extensive and important of the charitable institutions, is the County Infirmary, at Fisherton. This noble Charity is indebted for its establishment to the will of Anthony, Lord Faversham, who, in the year 1763, bequeathed the sum of 500/. to the first public asylum for the sick, which should be established in the county of Wilts, within five years of his decease. Public sympathy was warmly excited on this occasion, and a liberal subscrip tion was carried on throughout the neighbourhood. The foundation-stone was laid in 1767, by the Duke of Queensbury, assisted by the Earls of Pembroke and Radnor ; and the structure, contrived by Sir James Stonehouse, was opened for the reception of patients in 1770. The first sermon (on "The Good Samaritan") was preached by Dr. Ogle, Dean of Winchester, and published by request of the Governors : and as the preacher was a Divine of eminence, and the pamphlet is now rare, we shall take the liberty of presenting our readers with an extract or two of more than ordinary interest : — " It is owing," he observes, " to a continual change in the manners and circumstances of the world, that improvements not only become possible, but even necessary. Old things are done away, and new ones take place, not merely from the superior merit of the latter, but from the necessary alteration of human affairs, and from the too general perversion of all ancient institutions. Agreeable to these principles we may observe, that the increase of social inter course, of knowledge, of art, of commerce, of riches, has opened to us a new mode of doing good, — that of County Infirmaries : a kind of charity, which, if not complete, is yet manifestly so well adapted to our present manners, and is in most Counties so capable of being put in execution, that it well deserves the encouragement which it so universally meets with. Every man is not now obliged to wait till the sick and wounded be accidentally thrown in his way : they are brought to him, and, without farther trouble, or avocation from his own business, he may, in effect, say, ' Take care of them, and whatsoever thou spendest more, when I come again, I will repay thee.' " The intention of our Infirmary is to relieve the extraordinary, the adventitious evils of life ; not merely the natural wants of it. These we would wish only in some cases to alleviate; H 26 the former, it were well could we wholly cure and remove. For can there be too many broken limbs restored to health ; can there be too many released from the tortures of the stone, or from those various hurts and maladies, which, under God, in this place admit of cure, at least of great alleviation ? Our Saviour, in the acts of mercy recorded of him, seems to justify this distinction between the natural and adventitious evils of life. We do not find his power exerted in easing men ofthe inconveniences and cares to which they were naturally subject, or from the discharge of those painful duties to which they were in their several stations called, though he was equally able to have done all this ; but we may observe him continually employed in curing the lame, the deaf, and the blind ; and in ' healing all manner of sickness and disease among the people.' " Another plea in favour of our Infirmary is, that we have not in this place any multi plicity of public charities, which can in any way interfere with each other, and thereby dissipate the effects of that benevolence, which is implanted in man for the good of the whole ; and which, when spread abroad into too many rills, is often extinguished and lost. " Our scheme is a grand and simple one ; that of taking the poor mechanic, the labourer, the peasant from his cottage, where he lay smothered, perhaps, amidst a numerous offspring, destitute of all medical aid, and deprived even of the common benefits of wholesome air and diet. His labour was his only support ; what then must he do, when that resource fails ? ' Poverty cometh then as one that travelleth, and want as an armed man.' Every hour sees him poorer and more distressed ; the small resources of former industry are soon exhausted, or are perhaps already become a prey to some impudent pretender to medicine, who gleans a miserable livelihood from the credulity and fears of the ignorant. This, believe me, is not the least evil which these Infirmaries are calculated to remove. It is for the relief, then, of such extraordinary distress that we are united in this salutary scheme ; and such are the manners and circumstances of the age in which we live, that the scheme is not only practicable, but is already brought to a considerable degree of perfection. The poorest man may now not only partake of every reasonable convenience in his sickness, but of the best assistance which his country affords, and that too at a very small expense to the public. In short, as much as a well-constructed machine, which at one stroke performs the work of an hundred hands, exceeds the labour of any single person, so much does this species of charity excel in its effects all private attempts of the kind. " There is another convenience attending these Infirmaries, — a convenience which by no means ought to be overlooked. The regularity and composure which reign, or which ought to reign there, are particularly favourable to those religious sentiments, which Providence visibly 27 intends should force themselves upon us in the hour of distress. When the mind is humbled by sickness, when the passions are calmed, and no temptations at hand to counterbalance the weight of good advice, then is it in our power to make those good impressions, which time, perhaps, may never efface. This ought not to be neglected ; for thus may your charity be made to have a double good effect, not only by restoring a useful member to society, but by restoring him a better man, — more orderly, more industrious, more contented and resigned to his lot here, and better prepared for an hereafter. " I cannot conclude without recurring once more to my first position, — that the merit of all public institutions must be estimated by their actual good effects : that, with a change of manners and circumstances, we must look for an alteration in the effects of every institution ; and that, therefore, no mode of doing good can be prescribed, which shall at all times prove equally efficacious. External causes, or internal defects, may give a wrong direction to our best endeavours, and may, in the end, make a public charity a public incumbrance. No establishment, therefore, can go well on, if left wholly to itself; rust will clog the wheels, or accidents impair the powers of the machine. It is your business then, Gentlemen, and believe me, it is not the smallest part of your charity, to guard against these natural principles of decay, to which every thing human is exposed ; and, from time to time, so to regulate and direct the powers of this subscription, that, under all changes, and in all circumstances, it may best attain the great end proposed, — the health and preservation of the industrious poor. Whilst it thus continues to be the object of your care and attention, it cannot well be subject to those abatements and drawbacks, which threaten so many other public charities ; but may, we hope, subsist for ages, like the beneficial works of creation itself, — stable and without decay : then may we safely join in this prayer, Esto perpetua ! ' God will prosper the work of our hands, the Lord will prosper our handy-work.' " Salisbury has been distinguished as the birth-place, or usual residence, of several EMINENT CHARACTERS. Of these, one of the more remarkable, though not the most reputable, was Thomas Chubb, the deist. He was the son of a maltster, at East Harnham, was born in 1679, and apprenticed, first to a glover, and afterwards to a tallow-chandler, in Salisbury. Being early initiated into the mysteries of literature and science, he established a Debating Club, where scriptural enquiries were freely handled. On the publication of the Trinitarian controversy, between Clarke and Waterland, Chubb was persuaded to write a treatise, which obtained for him the applause of many who had more regard for acuteness of intellect than for sobriety of judgment, or integrity of life. Pope, Gay, and the licentious wits who thronged the table of 28 the Duke of Queensbury, were amazed at the phenomenon which had started up so near the scene of their festivities; and Sir Joseph Jekyl, Master of the Rolls, immediately took the young free-thinker into his family. But the restraints of this situation were too much for the independent spirit of Thomas Chubb. He soon returned to his old pursuits, making very serviceable candles, and writing very foolish books, till the year 1747, when he died, in the 68th year of his age, a melancholy example of talents misapplied, and principles sacrificed to the applauses ofthe unworthy. James Harris was the son ofa gentleman ofthe same name, who resided in the Close. His mother was sister to the Earl of Shaftesbury, author of "The Characteristics." He was born in 1709, and educated at the Choristers' School ; from whence he removed to Wadham College, Oxford, and afterwards pursued his studies at Lincoln's Inn. On the death of his father, Mr. Harris occupied the family mansion, in the Close, and devoted himself principally to the cultivation of classical literature, and of music. As the first-fruits of these speculations, he produced, in 1744, a volume, consisting of " Three Treatises, — on Art ; on Music, Painting, and Poetry ; and on Happiness." In 1751, he gave to the world his " Hermes, or a Philoso phical Inquiry concerning Universal Grammar." This work was pronounced, by Bishop Lowth, to be the most beautiful and perfect example of analysis exhibited since the days of Aristotle. From his marriage, in 1745, till the year 1761, Mr. Harris continued to reside principally at Salisbury, only retiring for a few months in the summer to his country-house at Durnford. He seems to have taken particular pleasure in promoting a taste for music among the inhabit ants of the city ; encouraging them in the support of a musical festival every year, besides subscription concerts and assemblies, in his own music-room, over St. Anne's gate. Some of his selections, from Italian and German composers, with English words adapted for these occasions, have been published by Mr. Corfe ; others remain, still in manuscript, in possession of his family. In 1761 , he was chosen Member for Christchurch, and continued to represent that Borough in Parliament till his death. From 1762 to 1765 he held office with the ministry : and in 1774 was appointed Secretary and Comptroller to the Queen. These engagements prevented him not from the prosecution of his favourite pursuits. In 1775 he published his " Philosophical Arrangements," a portion only of an extensive work which he had meditated, on the Logic of the Peripatetic School. His last labour, the " Philological Inquiries," was a posthumous publication, not issued from the press till 1781, His health had begun visibly to decline ; and he died, in the 72nd year of his age, a few weeks previous to its 29 appearance. His son, the late Lord Malmesbury, afterwards superintended a handsome edition of his works. Mr. Harris lies interred, with others of the same family, in the North Transept of the Cathedral ; where his character is commemorated by the figure of Moral Philosophy, mourning over a medallion -head ofthe deceased, by Bacon. By the side of Mr. Harris is the monument of William Benson Earle, distinguished by a figure of Benevolence, by Flaxman, unveiling the scriptural illustration of the text, " Go, and do thou likewise." Mr. Earle, a descendant of Auditor Benson, of the time of George the 1st, was born in 1 740, and, during a residence of many years in the Close, obtained a meritorious character for singular kindness and generosity. He was also, like Mr. Harris, an excellent scholar, and an enthusiastic proficient in music. He died in 1796, and was interred in the Church of Gratley, near Andover. It now only remains to notice, in few words, that the neighbourhood of Salisbury abounds in objects of peculiar interest. Of these, by far the most renowned is that wonderful monument of antiquity, Stonehenge. This structure, which is eight miles distant from Salisbury, has been so often described, and is, after all, so little capable of elucidation, that nothing more will be here attempted on the subject. Indeed, the small and humble guide-book, provided for the use of strangers, will be found to contain an excellent analysis of the opinions of the most eminent antiquaries in succession, besides a considerable allowance of literary and scientific information. Perhaps, however, it may be some day thought worth while, as an enterprise of local speculation, to publish," in a popular form, adapted for extensive perusal, an illustrated account of the wonders of Stonehenge, Abury, and Silbury, and, in short, of the British, Saxon, and Roman remains of antiquity in general, throughout the downs which characterise this part ofthe country. SONNET, BY THE 11EV. THOMAS WARTON"; WRITTEN AT STONEHENGE. Thou noblest monument of Albion's isle ! Whether, by Merlin's aid, from Scythia's shore To Ambers fatal plain Pendragon bore, Huge frame of giant-hands, the mighty pile, T' entomb his Britons slain by Hengist's guile ; Or Druid priests, sprinkled with human gore, * A curious work, comprising an account of the British Islands prior to the invasion of Julius Cresar, has lately been discovered in the possession of the Brahmins of Benares. In this valuable treasure of antiquity, Britain is called by a name which signifies the Holy Land; the Thames, the Isis, and other rivers, bear similar titles with those of the present day ; and Stonehenge is described as a grand Hindoo Temple ! The Asiatic Society of Calcutta are said to be preparing for publication a translation of this interesting manuscript. 30 Taught, 'mid thy massy maze, their mystic lore ; Or Danish chiefs, enrich'd with savage spoil, ^ To Victory's idol vast, an unhewn shrine, Rear'd the rude heap ; or, in thy hallow'd round, Repose the Kings of Brutus' genuine line ; Or here those Kings in solemn state were crown 'd : — Studious to trace thy wond'rous origin, AVe mus;j on many an ancient tale renown'd ! In the mean time, a few words may be devoted to other places of scarcely less celebrity. And first, in the midst of a beautiful and spacious park, within two miles of Salisbury, on he road to Romsey, once stood the splendid Palace of Clarendon. By whom it was built, no one now presumes to conjecture ; but we know, that, from the days of Henry the 2nd to those of Edward the 3d inclusive (1 154 to 1377), it became the frequent residence of British Monarchs ; as, again, in after-times, of Queen Elizabeth. We also know, that Roger de Clarendon, natural son of Edward the Black Prince, was born there. But the fame of Clarendon Palace is chiefly associated, in the minds of Englishmen, with the famous " Constitutions of Clarendon," passed by the Parliament of Henry the 2nd, here assembled, in the year 1163, to restrain the encroach ments ofthe ecclesiastical court of Rome. The refusal of Becket to comply with these enactments, was, no doubt, the actual cause of his fatal quarrel with the King, — of his deposition, and of his death. In 1357, during the general prevalence of the plague"" throughout England, no fewer than three Kings were in residence together at Clarendon ; these were Edward the 3rd of England ; and his prisoners, John of France, and David of Scotland. They were often known to pursue the sports of the country in those very woods, from which Edward the Martyr had but just returned, when he was assassinated by his mother-in-law, at the gate of Corfe-Castle. The domain of Clarendon gave the title of Earl to the celebrated Edward Hyde, Lord Chancellor of England, whose devotion to the cause of Monarchy promoted two of his own grand-daughters to the throne. He was born at Dinton, in Wiltshire, in 1641, and died in exile in 1673. Near the south-west angle of Clarendon Park stood the Augustine Priory of Ivy-Church, founded by Henry the 2nd. Of the Palace itself, the only vestiges now left are a part of its wall, overgrown with ivy, in length thirty-four feet, in height twenty feci. Workmen were employed, several years ago, in * Salisbury is known to have been visited no less than six times by this frightful malady; viz. in the years 1356< 1563, 15/9, 1804, 11127, and lClifi. The last of these, the year subsequent to the plague of London, was fatal to no less than six hundred persons. Many of the inhabitants, to avoid contagion, shut themselves up in their houses, and denied all intercourse with their neighbours; and so late as the year 1817, the door of a house in Silver-street, near the entrance to St. Thomas's Church, exhibited a small aperture for the admission of provisions during the period of infection. 31 digging the ground that formed the site of the building ; and it was then ascertained, by the foundations of the walls, that the Palace had formerly extended full 700 feet in length, from east to west. By removing mould of several feet in depth, they discovered the floors of no less than eight or nine rooms, several of them in a tolerably perfect state. The structure of the building appears to have been very irregular. The principal room was ninety feet long, and sixty-two feet wide ; and it is conjectured that it was in this room that King Henry devised the " Constitutions of Clarendon." The floors of some of the rooms were paved with Norman tiles. These tiles were, for the most part, square or triangular, extremely hard in substance, of different colours, and variously ornamented ; some of them exhibiting dragons, griffins, flowers, and so forth. It is not a little remarkable, that, notwithstanding the many centuries these tiles had remained under a deep and damp mould, the greater part of them retained, in a perfect and undecayed state, the glazing that covered and preserved the figures with which they had been stained. Some of the floors were composed of a smooth plaster, which still remained uninjured. In the course of the interesting search, at that time made, for the traces of this once celebrated Palace, several shingles, or slates, were found, which evidently formed a part of the roof of the building. Pieces of beautifully-stained glass, of which the Palace windows were composed, were also discovered. The walls of the various rooms differed in thickness, from two feet eight, to five feet two inches. Nothing now remains of Ivy-Church, except a pair of sculptured figures, inserted in an inner wall of the present house,- — a commodious structure of the last century, most beautifully situated, and at present occupied as a school.*' From Clarendon we may proceed to Longford Castle, the seat of the Earl of Radnor, situated about three miles on the road to Fordingbridge. This curious fabric was constructed, on a Danish model, by Thomas Gorges, and his lady, the Marchioness Dowager of Northampton, in the year 1591. Its triangular outline, and circular towers at the angles,!" are described in Sir Philip Sidney's Arcadia, under the title of " The Castle of Amphiolus." The house is now in a state of incompleteness, having been prepared by the late Earl for extensive alterations, under Mr. James Wyatt, which have not as yet been more than partially executed. • Connected with this neighbourhood is tlie name of Mr. Stephen Duck, the Wiltshire Bard, who was born at Charlton the beginning of the last century, and bred a thresher. His poem, " The Thresher's Labour," attracted the notice of Queen Canline; and the author was invited to Windsor, ard provided with a house and salary at Kew. He then applied to the study of languages, took orders, and was presented to the living of Byfleet, in Surrey ; where, intoxicated by early flattery, and disappointed in the seclusion of a village parish, he fell a victim to despondency in 1750. His Poems had been previously introduced to the world by a Memoir from the pen nf Mr. Spence, who had kindly patronised poor Blacklock, the blind poet, in a similar manner. Under the superintendence of Lord Palmerston's family, a dinner was annually given to the threshers of Charlton ; » circumstance commemorated by Duck in his '' Journey to Bath and Portsmouth." + A very good view of Longford Castle is given in Britton's Architectural Antiquities. 3,a There is a small, but beautiful collection of pictures within ; particularly, the Rise and Fall of the Roman Empire, — a pair of inimitable landscapes, by Claude Lorrain ; the Passage of the Red Sea, and the Adoration of the Golden Calf, by Nicholas Poussin ; a Holy Family, by Ludovico Caracci; and St. Sebastian, a joint performance of Michael Angelo Buonarotti, and Sebastian del Piombo. There is also a steel chair, of extraordinary workmanship, manufactured by Thomas Nokens, of Augsberg, in 1575, as a present to the Emperor Rodolphus the 2nd. It contains upwards of one hundred and thirty compartments, covered with historical devices. After the capture of Prague, by Gustavus Adolphus, this curious spoil was carried into Sweden by the conqueror. It. there fell into the hands of Gustavus Brander, Esq., who brought it over to England, and sold it to the late Lord Radnor. On our road towards the last object to be noticed, we may pause a moment at the little village of Bemerton, and avail ourselves of the opportunity to remark, that this retired Rectory has been the residence of no less than four divines, of great and just celebrity. The first was Walter Curie, afterwards Bishop of Winchester ; the second, his successor, George Herbert, the biographer of Walton, and author of " The Priest to the Temple," and " The Country Parson;"* the third, John Norris, the Christian Platonist ; f and the fourth, William Coxe, Archdeacon of Wilts, whose historical researches have proved equally numerous and valuable. About a mile beyond Bemerton, and three miles from Salisbury, on the road to Bath, at the confluence of the Wily and the Nadder, stands the town of Wilton, once the capital of Wiltshire. J Its principal opulence is now derived from the manufacture of carpets, which were * A portrait of Herbert, with a view of Bemerton Church, is given in the Saturday Magazine, for Dec. 8th, 1832 ; and a view of the Church, on a larger scale, in the British Magazine, for August, 1833. Herbert lies buried under the space enclosed by the altar-rails, without any monument or inscription : even the pavement is now concealed by a wooden floor. Having rebuilt the Parsonage House, he left the following inscription over the chimney-place in the hall : — " To my Successor." " If thou chance for to find " A new house to thy mind, " And built ivithout thy cost ; " Be good to the poor, " As God gives thee store, " And then my labour's not lost." t An affecting passage is preserved in Nichols's Literary Anecdotes, from the papers of the Rev. John Jones : " The Rev. and aged Mr. Thomas Colburne told me, that when he was a young man at Salisbury, he made a visit to this ingenious and exemplary Clergyman. This was not long after the Revolution, when Dr. Burnet was Bishop of that See. Mr. Norris treated him very civilly, and took him into his garden, from whence they had a full view of the City and Cathedral. ' What a magnificent structure,' said young Colburne, ' is that great Cathedral ! You are happy, Sir, in this delightful prospect.' ' Yes,' said Mr. Norris, ' it is all the prospect I have with respect to that Cathedral.' " Norris was well aware that his Lordship had positively determined lo give him no preferment in that quarter. The coarse and busy nature of Burnet could have had but little in unison with the pure and spiritual piety of Norris. J Among the five places appointed by Richard the 1st for the celebration of Tournaments in England, was a spot situated between Salisbury and Wilton. 33 here first made in England. The parish Church is a large and venerable structure, and near it are some remains of a Cross. The Town-Hall is likewise ancient. The famous Abbey of Wilton was founded by Weolkstan, Earl of Ellandun, as early as a. d. 773, but completed by Elburga, sister of King Egbert, in a. d. 800. The site of the Abbey is now occupied by Wilton-House, the seat of the Earls of Pembroke ; one of the most costly Palaces in England, and particularly celebrated for its Antique Marbles, Pictures, and other works of art. The founder of this magnificent museum was Sir William Herbert, the first of that name who bore the title of Pembroke : but it is to the zeal and taste of Thomas, the 8th Earl, that the museum is indebted for the greater portion of its treasures. By him, the cabinets of Guistiniani and Valetta, and of Cardinals Mazarine and Richelieu, were spoiled of many of their relics, and the present gallery contrived for their reception. From such a multitude of gems, it were almost impossible to particularise ; but, perhaps, a small whole-length of the Queen of the Amazons, in marble, on the lid of a sarcophagus ; and a group of Hercules and Philoctetes ; a bust of Pyrrhus, King of Epirus ; another of Prusias, King of Bythinia ; and another of Marcus Modius ; may be considered among the most perfect of the single figures. Among the relievos, that of Curtius leaping into the gulf ; of Saturn, with his scythe ; the Story of Clelia ; Niobe and her Children ; and a curious mosaic of Hercules in the Garden of the Hesperides ; are generally considered as the finest examples. With respect to the pictures, the state-room presents a matchless collection of Vandycks, including the family-piece, which measures 17 ft. by 10, and contains no less than ten whole-length figures ; but is now unhappily much injured by the injudicious treatment it underwent in the year 1773-4. The picture of the Three Children of King Charles the First, and that of the Duchess of Richmond and her Dwarf, Mrs. Gibson ; as well as the portraits of Mrs. Killegew and Mrs. Morton ; are unrivalled specimens of that great master. Of other pictures, the Virgin and Child, by Andrea del Sarto ; another, with Joseph, by Guercino ; the Assumption, by Rubens ; a head of Democritus, by Spagnoletto ; Mary Magdalen, by Titian; Wickliffe preaching to the Reformers, by Carlo Maratti ; an old woman reading, by Rembrandt ; and a fruit-piece, with figures, by Michael Angelo ; deserve especial notice. The hall is filled with family suites of armour ; and the geometrical staircase, the first contrived in this country, is also an object of much curiosity. The garden-front of the house was designed by Inigo Jones, who has added a most exquisite bridge, in the Palladian style, to the other decorations of the scene. The original porch was built by Hans Holbein : the gate-way is Roman, and surmounted by a figure of Marcus Aurelius, on horseback. Though here, again, appears the hand of Wyatt, who seems 34 to have propagated a sort of frenzy during his visit to this part of the country, and of whose attempts, in Gothic architecture, it may be fairly asked,—" quid tetigit, quod not depravavit ?" what did he ever touch, and failed to spoil I ? SONNET, BY THE REV. THOMAS WARTON ; WRITTEN AFTER SEEING WILTON-HOUSE. Prom Pembroke's princely dome, where mimic art Decks with a magic hand the dazzling bow'rs ; Its living hues where the warm pencil pours, And breathing forms from the rude marble start ; How to life's humble scene can I depart ? My breast all glowing from those gorgeous tow'rs, In my low cell how cheat the sullen hours ? Vain the complaint : for fancy can impart (To fate superior, and to fortune's doom) Whate'er adorns the stately-storied hall ; She, in the dungeon's solitary gloom, Can dress the Graces in their Attic pall : Bid the green landscape's vernal beauty bloom, And in bright trophies clothe the twilight wall ! The Editor has now only to discharge the agreeable duty of returning his sincere acknow ledgments for the support he has received in the prosecution of the present work. On his own part, he can aver with truth, that he has spared neither labour nor expense (both expense and labour far exceeding the probable calculations of those who may not be conversant with such undertakings), to do justice to his subject, and to fulfil the wishes and expectations of his subscribers; while, of those concerned in the mechanical preparation of the volume, he can readily bear witness that they have, one and all, discharged their respective duties with the utmost care and assiduity. He trusts that the object proposed, from the commencement, has been fully accomplished, — " not only to preserve a faithful record of the ecclesiastical, civil, and domestic remains of Salisbury, as they at present stand ; but to rescue from oblivion many traces of beauty and curiosity, which the lapse of ages, the fluctuations of taste, and the love of comfort and convenience have already swept away." " Publications of this kind," it was before observed, " have their obvious utility in many ways. To the antiquary, the man of taste and letters, they constitute an innocent and enlightened source of recreation. To those connected with the place, by birth, education, or other attachments, they recall the occupations of departed days, and realise the scenes of memory and imagination. To the service of trade and commerce they continually prove of value; eliciting subjects of interest from obscure recesses, and preserving others from unmerited destruction; thus circulating among strangers the characteristic features ofthe neighbourhood, and inducing many a traveller, who would otherwise have changed horses and passed on, to devote a trifle, both of time and money, to a personal survey of its contents." A SHAKSPEARE SCENE— OLD HOUSES AT THE TOP OF MILFORD STREET. A CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE, SHEWING THE YEAR AND THE REIGN CORRESPONDING WITH THE SEVERAL BISHOPS OF OLD AND NEW SARUM. (OLD SARUM) : Herman A. D. 1046 to 1078 St. Osmumd 1078 — 1099 Roger 1102 — 1139 Joceline de Bailul 1142 — 1184 Hubert Walter 1189 — 1193 Herbert Pauper, or Poore 1194 — 1216 (SEE REMOVED TO NEW SARUM) : Richard Pauper, or Poore 1217 - Robert Bingham 1229 - William of York 1247- Egidius de Bridport 125(1 - W alter de la Wyle 1263- Robert de Wickhampton 1270 - Walter Scammel 1284 - Henry de Braundston 1287 - Laurence Hawkburn 1287- William de Corner 1289 - Nicholas Longspee 1291 - Simon de Gondavo 1297- Roger de Mortiva 1315 - Roger de Wyvil 1329 - Ralph Ergum 1375- John Waltham 1388 - Richard M e tford 1395 - Nicholas Bubwith 1407 - Robert Hallam 1407 - John Chandeler 1417 - Richard Neville 1427 - William Ayscough 1438- Richard Beauchamp 1450 - Lionel Woodville, or Widville.. ..1482 — Thomas Langton 1484. — John Blythe 1493 — Henry Dean 1500 — Edmund Audley 1502 — Laurence Campeggio 1524 — Nicholas Shaxton 1535 — John Salcot, or Capon 1228 1246 1256 1262 1270128412861288 128812911297131513291375 1388 1395 14071407 1417142614371450148114841493 149915021524 1534 1539 1539 — 1557 (PROTESTANT REFORMATION) : John Jewell 1559 — 1571 Edmund Gheast 1571 — 1577 John Piers 1577 — 1588 John Coldwell 1591 — 1596 Henry Cotton 1598 — 1615 Robert Abbot 1615 — 1618 Martin Fotherby 1618 — 1620 Robert Tounson 1620 — 1621 John Davenant 1621 — 1641 Brian Duppa 1641 — 1660 Humphrey Henchman 1660 — 1663 John Earle, or Earles 1663 — 1665 Alexander Hyde 1665 — 1667 Setii Ward 1667— 1689 Gilbert Burnet 1689 — 1715 William Talbot 1715— 1721 Richard Willis 1721 — 1723 Benjamin Hoadly 1723 — 1734 Thomas Sherlock 1734 — 1748 John Gilbert 1748 — 1757 John Thomas, the 1st 1757— 1761 Hon. Robert Hay Drummond 1761 — 1761 John Thomas, the 2d 1761 — 1766 John Hume 1766 — 1782 Hon. Siiute Barrington 1782 — 1791 John Douglas 1791 — 1807 John Fisher 1807— 1825 Thomas Burgess '. ... 1825 — . William I A. D. 1066 to 1087 . William II 1087 — 1100 ¦ Henry 1 1100 — 1135 f Stephen 1135 — 1154 -(.Henry II 1154 — 1189 - Richard 1 1189—1199 - John 1199 — 1216 -Henry III 1216—1272 "J -Edward 1 1272 — 1307 Edward II... - Edward III. .1307 - .1327 - Richard II 1377- HenryIV 1399- Henry V 1413- Henry VI 1422- Edward IV. . fuDWAM V.... I Richard III. 1461- .1483- .1483- ¦ 1327 ¦1377• 1399 1413 -1422 ¦ 1461 ¦ 1483 -1483¦ 1485 -Henry VII 1485 — 1509 -Henry VIII 1509 — 1547 Edward VI 1547- L Philip and Mary 1553- ¦ 1553 1558 -Elizabeth 1558— 1603 =} James 1 1603 — 1625 Charles 1 1625 - (The Commonwealth) 1649 - 16491660 •V Charles II 1660 — 1685 - James II 1685 — 1689 (William and Maiy 1689— 1702 I Anne 1702 — 1714 [ | George 1 1/14— 1727 George II 1727 — 1760 -George III 1/60 — 1820 1830 George IV. ... William V\r., .1820- .1830- PLATE I. ANCIENT VIEW OF SALISBURY. The original Picture, from which the annexed Sketch is taken, has continued for many years in the possession of Mr. J. T. Biddlecombe, Choral Vicar of Salisbury Cathedral. The oil- painting is coarse, and has apparently been furbished by a modern hand. It represents, however, from the high ground upon the London Road, at least a minute and comprehensive, if not a very faithful, delineation of the City of New Sarum. Commencing from the right hand, we observe the Church of Fisherton, St. Edmund's and the College, St. Thomas's, the late Council Chamber, Harnham Church, the Cathedral with its Belfry, the Bishop's Palace, and the Church of St. Martin. At the lower extremity of the road appears Winchester Gate, which was removed in the year 1767, and, some way above it on the left, the Weeping-Cross Tree, celebrated as the spot where a last embrace was usually allowed the friends of those, who ventured their lives and fortunes by the ponderous stage-coach, — the only conveyance that undertook the long and dangerous pilgrimage to London. The fore-ground is crossed by a portion of the fosse, constructed by the Citizens in the reign of Edward the Second (about 1310 — 1315), to protect the Northern and Eastern approaches of the town; the remains of which, except a small portion still visible in the College Garden, were levelled, partly in 1769, and partly, between the upper end of St. Anne and Milford Streets, as late as 1795. The present View was rudely engraved, with some modern adaptations, in Naish's Survey, published by Collins, in 1751. From the costume of the figures and equipage, its design may, perhaps, be attributed to the reign of George the First. PORCH OF LAVERSTOCK CHURCH. 1 he entrance archway into the porch of Laverstock Church indicates the high antiquity of the edifice to which it was primarily attached. The Church itself has undergone so many alterations, as to be no longer characteristic of any particular period of design; but the Parish itself occurs in Doomsday Book, and may, perhaps, claim, amid the surrounding neighbour hood, a period of antiquity, second only to Old Sarum itself. IIP HN PLATE II. ST. ANNE'S GATE. It was in the year 1326, that Edward the Third gave permission to the Dean and Chapter of Salisbury, to enclose their Canonical Residences with an embattled wall of stone. A con siderable portion of this structure, ornamented by four gateways, still imparts a venerable aspect to this quarter of the City, and retains for the Close, particularly after the hour of Curfew, its appropriate character of seclusion and retirement. Those who are accustomed to observe minutely the remains of ancient buildings, will not fail to notice a variety of carved stones, of Roman or Saxon workmanship, inserted in various parts of this wall, especially on the Eastern side, a little to the left of the present view. They consist of fragments of enriched entablatures, pateree, bustos, &c. ; and, as similar remains exist in the interior of the Cathedral spire, which was erected during the same reign, there can be little doubt that the whole are samples that occurred in removing the demolished church and fortress of Old Sarum, which seems to have served as a general quarry for the supply of building materials to the new City. Drawings of several of these fragments will be found in the Gentleman's Magazine for Oct. 1818 (vol. 88, part 2, p. 305-6). COURT-YARD, AT CHANCELLOR MARSH'S. We have here a portion of one of the Canonical Houses just mentioned. The pointed window, on the right, was the domestic chapel, invariably attached to the residences of the higher Clergy. The roof of the hall may be still traced, of a style corresponding with the Refectory on the Canal; while, along the cornice, appears the name of Jon Hid (or Hyde), of the noble family of Clarendon; several of whom were Canons Residentiary of the Cathedral, during the 16th and 17th Centuries. PLATE III. ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH. Considerable uncertainty prevails with respect to the origin of the present Church of " St. Martin in the Fields." Leland, in his Itinerary (vol. iii. pp. 74, 82), distinctly states, that on visiting Salisbury, in 1542, by command of Henry the Eighth, he saw a barn standing on the North side of St. Nieholas' Hospital, which the inhabitants assured him was > the wreck of old St. Martin's Church,; and that the former site was abandoned 'in favour of the present, in consequence of, the floods which infested the lower ground. -Leland's informants had evidently no authority except tradition ; and against this tradition every circumstance, both of probability and of record, distinctly militates. Yet Kollingshed, who wrote in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, confirms the statement of Leland ; though the Northern side of St. Nicholas' Hospital was then, as now, terminated at a short distance by the Bishop's Wall ; and though there had previously existed neither parish nor population in Salisbury to require such accommodation ; while West Harnham had its own church, of Norman date, — -East Harnham, the Chapels of St. John and St. Nicholas, — and the hamlet of Milford was united under the parochial superintendence of Laverstock. Least of all was it probable that a Parish' Church should be transplanted from one Parish to another; a difficulty which Leland escapes, by assigning the Church, both before and after its removal, to the suburban district of Harnham. Still, no records whatever exist to authenticate the present structure ; and, whatever may have been the ruin pointed out to Leland, the modern, no less than the ancient, building involves a point of ecclesiastical history, almost beyond the hope of satisfactory elucidation. The style of its architecture will scarcely warrant a more early conjecture than the reign of Richard the Second (1377 to 1399), or the latter years of his predecessor, the patron Monarch of New Sarum. Under an arch, within the tower, stand the relics of an altar-tomb, which, from its peculiar situation, may have received, according to Mr. Gough's surmise, the mortal ashes of the founder ; but whose very age and name it has failed to commemorate. So, " Like their mouldering tenants, tombs decay, " And, with the dust they hide, are swept away." Giffobd's Juvenal, x. 214, 5. ST. MARTIN'S FONT. -T onts are not unfrequently observed to be much older than the Churches in which they occur. That of St. Martin's is evidently of Norman workmanship, and may, perhaps, have been transferred from the desecrated Barn, which has occasioned so much perplexity. PLATE IV. STRATFORD CHURCH AND MANOR HOUSE. The Village of Stratford is situated about a mile to the North of Salisbury, under the Western declivity of the Castle Hill. Its Manor-House has been erroneously commemorated by Mr. Seward, as the birth-place of William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham. The estate certainly belonged, however, to his ancestors, the Pitts, of Boconnoc, in Cornwall ; and was the scene where that great Statesman (who commenced his political career, in 1735, as representative for the Borough of Old Sarum) passed many of his early days during the residence of his father, Robert Pitt. The general aspect of the house, though not of high antiquity, is alike venerable and picturesque, and has hitherto been little altered from its primitive simplicity of character. Over the door is inscribed a motto, " Parva, sed apta domino; " — Small, but suited to its master. The Parish Church is a neat, rather than a handsome structure. The Western portion was entirely rebuilt in the reign of Queen Anne, as appears by a notice on the tower : " Thomas Pitt, Esq., Benefactor. Erected, Anno 1711." COTTAGE RESIDENCE AT STRATFORD. I ins is another specimen of the domestic style of our forefathers, and when viewed from the Church-yard by the angle of the road-side, or up the double avenue of elms in front, presents, with its pointed pediments and lofty gables, its bay windows and triangular chimneys, an object of peculiar attraction. Indeed, every step along the banks of Avon, from Salisbury to Amesbury, teems with antiquarian relics and historical associations ; and looks, in the midst of the desert plain around it, like a Fairy Valley, winding through the Hill-Country of the Giants. PLATE V. JOINERS' HALL, ST. ANNE'S STREET. Of the several incorporated Companies which formerly existed by Charter in this City, the Joiners alone retain any premises entitled to Architectural distinction. The principal building in the annexed Engraving, bears all the characteristics of the period of Queen Elizabeth. The interior of the large room presents one uniform surface of the most minute and exquisite carving on panel, with Corinthian pilasters. The ornamented brackets which support the Oriels without, have been attributed to the hand of Humphrey Beckham, a native of Salisbury, who exercised the craft of oak-carving during the reigns of James the First and his successors, and was interred, under a monument of his own design, beside the Western door of St. Thomas's Church, in 1671. The glazing of the windows is executed in an unusual pattern, and retains a few traces of armorial bearings. A hideous sash-window, lately inserted in the centre, it has been deemed allowable to omit, without further apology. TRIC-TRAC TABLE. The game of tric-trac, or trick-tack, is supposed to have come originally from Turkey, and is still played occasionally by the French. The board itself resembles that now used for back gammon, but with holes round the border, where the scores are marked with pegs, as in the scarcely less venerable game of Cribbage. The annexed specimen stands in the Audit-Room ef Trinity Hospital, with other furniture of antique description. PLATE VI. NAVE OF SALISBURY CATHEDRAL. The original View, from which the present copy is reduced, was engraved by J. S. Muller, in the year 1754, from a drawing by Mr. James Biddlecombe ; of whose descendant, before alluded to, a loan of that elaborate performance has been obtained. The Nave is here exhibited in those characteristic features of simplicity, of which so many have been since demolished. The incongruous and heavy font has been properly removed to a spot of less ostentation ; but that convenience has been dearly purchased by the introduction of tombs and slabs from every quarter of the Church, arranged, like settees, between the columns on either side, and delineating the spot where the ashes they commemorate are not interred. Of the old Organ, which has been replaced by a donation of King George the Third, enclosed in a case, and mounted on a screen, of modern Gothic, a curious engraving was published by Mr. Lyons about the middle of the last century. MONUMENT OF BISHOP POORE. The accompanying woodcut is likewise copied from an etching by Carter, in 1781, prefixed to the first Edition of "Milner's Dissertation on the Modern Style of altering Ancient Cathedrals ; " a tract, which every inhabitant of New Sarum should read over once a year. It represents, in its original state (1237), the Episcopal effigy and tomb of Richard Poore, Founder of Salisbury Cathedral. In the memorable year of our Lord, 1789, this interesting structure was taken to pieces by Mr. James Wyatt, the figure removed on its slab, together with a skeleton found underneath, from the North side of the ancient Altar, below the Lady Chapel, and deposited in a corner of the N. E. Transept, called the Morning Chapel, where it now lies in humiliating contrast with its former dignity and beauty. PLATE VII. THE WORK-HOUSE A VIEW OF CRANE STREET. Almost every house on the left hand side of Crane Street, looking towards the Bridge, bears evident indications of antiquity. But the Gothic structure at the further extremity, now occupied as the City Workhouse, claims a more than common degree of observation. There can be no doubt but this was originally one of those Monastic establishments, of which there existed at least three, if not more, within the Town, besides the Grey Friars, over the larger Bridge, in the main Street of Fisherton. It was probably granted, at the dissolution of Religious Houses, by King Henry the 8th, to the family of Touchet, Barons Audley, and afterwards Earls of Castlehaven. By one of these it was forfeited by attainder to the Crown, in 1631, and granted in perpetuity to the Bishop ; by whom it was afterwards presented, for its present purpose, to the Mayor and Corporation. ANCIENT HOUSE IN NEW STREET. New Street, or, at least, the Western half of it, lies within the range of ancient buildings, which denote the original road, along the High Street, from Old Sarum, to the Western door of the Cathedral/ The last house upon the Southern side, still distinguished as " Mitre Corner," appears to occupy the very first patch of ground on which a dwelling was constructed in the new City ; and from the circumstance of Bishop Poore having resided there, while superintending the progress of the Cathedral, the custom has ever since continued for each succeeding Prelate to be invested with his robes of office on the same spot, and thence con ducted by the Clergy to his installation. The building here represented may be attributed to the period of Henry the 7th ; and if restored, even yet, at a very trifling cost, would continue an example, no less beautiful than curious, of the ordinary dwellings of our forefathers. fcilffi PLATE VIII. HARNHAM MILL. Of this remarkable and interesting pile, the upper story of the principal front, together with the roofing, and the whole of the square premises beyond, are of modern introduction. The rest bears evident testimony to the reign of Henry the 7th or 8th. By many persons it is supposed to have been attached to some ancient grange, or farm; but the more probable conjecture assigns it originally to the use of the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral. The style of building betrays a remarkable admixture of the domestic with the castellated of an earlier date ; while a niche, in the upper story of the Northern gable, imparts the additional character of devotional sanctity and retirement. CORBEL-HEAD IN WEST HARNHAM CHURCH. That some portions of this Church are of very early date, may be judged, not only from the diminutive windows and massy beam-ends, which appear distinctly on the inner walls, but from a circular arch, supported, on the reverse, by columns with sculptured capitals, which still communicates with the belfry. The Chancel displays a series of six corbel-heads, similar to the one here delineated, besides bosses and rosettes at the intersection of the ribs ; and in the Southern Aisle, remains a piscina, or sink, — the ancient accompaniment of a private shrine, which is separated by a screen of oak from the main body of the Choir. The substitution of a low and clumsy Tower, in place of its Norman predecessor, has rendered the Church of Harnham less attractive, in outward aspect, than any in the immediate vicinity of Salisbury. PLATE IX. FOULSTONE AND ODSTOCK CHURCHES. These rustic edifices, though scarcely of sufficient importance to deserve representation on a larger scale, are both of them objects of picturesque antiquity, and within an easy walk from the principal scene of our researches. Foulstone, or Fuggleston St. Peter, is a Rectorial Parish, adjacent to the town of Wilton, and celebrated by its Hospital for Lepers, dedicated to St. Giles, by Adeliza, second wife of King Henry the First, whose remains are said to have been deposited in the chapel of that establishment. The building itself, which stood, within the memory of the present generation, on the left of the high road, about a quarter of a mile nearer to the City, has yielded, at length, to the ravages of time and change. The Living, which conferred on the Incumbent the honorary title of Prior of the Hospital, was held, for many years, in conjunction with that of Bemerton, by the late Venerable Archdeacon Coxe; a gentleman, whose literary renown has thrown an air of classical association over the neighbourhood of his long and favourite residence. The Village of Odstock is also dignified by a Rectory. The Church, though of less antiquity than the preceding, exhibits several features of considerable elegance, which are enhanced by their sequestered situation, and the neatness and cultivation of the surrounding scenery. THE BARRACKS, IN BROWN STREET. We must not always expect to find the name of a building indicative of its character or object. The Barracks, in Brown Street, (for the same appellation is applied to several ranges of Cottages in other Streets), are now let out in separate tenements to the poor, and afford but little idea of military occupation ; except, perhaps, by republican marauders, who lodged themselves, and their beasts of burden too, as caprice or accident suggested, in a hovel, a palace, or a cathedral. The present structure, however, is evidently one of considerable antiquity; and, independent of its claim on our attention, as once the actual property of Oliver Cromwell, (a fact, attested by his signature to the title-deeds, in possession of the present owner), preserves, as will be hereafter noticed, in its internal, no less than outward arrangements, more than one object of attraction to the eye of the antiquary and virtuoso. ;-U» PLATE X. WEST END OF SALISBURY CATHEDRAL, RESTORED. Those who derive gratification, however mingled with regret, from the spectacle of a venerable city in the days of her departed splendour, can hardly fail to value the Western view of Salisbury Cathedral, as preserved by Dugdale from the burin of Hollar. Every niche is here occupied by its statue ; on the North side of the nearer Transept stands the Porch, now deposited in the Garden of St. Edmund's College ; and at a little distance from the great Western door remains the base of a sepulchral Cross, the upper portion of which must have gone to decay several centuries ago. But the principal feature which distinguishes the ancient from the modern view, is the preservation of the Belfry Tower. This remarkable pile was certainly coeval with the Cathedral. The centre was supported, like that of the Chapter-House, by a single shaft of Purbeck marble, embedded in its natural soil, regularly deposited according to the strata of the quarry from which it was derived. The Spire, — probably a subsequent erection, and composed of timber-frames, covered with lead, — was taken down and repaired in the year 1758. Mr. Price had proposed a restoration, which may be seen engraved by the side of the original in his description of the Church ; but which was happily rejected. In the fatal repairs, however, of Mr. Wyatt, the whole mass was demolished at one fell swoop ; and whether we regard the singularity, the scientific construction, or the picturesque beauty of the structure, it must be owned that in that act of desecration one of the architectural glories of Salisbury was lost for ever. ORIEL WINDOW, IN HIGH STREET. 1 ins beautiful window was some years ago supplanted, for the late proprietor of the dwelling, by a French sash, of approved symmetry and proportions. It is to be hoped that internal comfort has derived something from the sacrifice of outward decoration. PLATE XI. FISHERTON CHURCH. That both the Village and Church of Fisherton existed at an earlier period than the City of Salisbury, we need go no farther than Leland and Camden to ascertain. And notwithstanding the transformations of later times, exemplified in all the varieties of Churchwarden masonry and carpentry, traces of very remote architecture may be yet discerned about the Church, especially in the massive square tower, — with its lower window, hewn, rather than carved, into a triple light,— contrasting remarkably with the delicate and polished style of the Cathedral. Near the principal Bridge, on the spot now occupied by the Sun Inn, stood the Dominican House of Black Friars, or Friars Preachers (and not of Grey Friars, as was inadvertently stated in the description ofthe Work-House, Plate VII.) ; founded, says Tanner, according to Bishop Godwin, by Robert Kilwardby, who was Archbishop of Canterbury from 1272 to 1278. PANEL-MOULDING, IN HIGH STREET. This elegant, though unassuming, specimen of Gothic carving, was removed from the same house with the window just mentioned. Many remains were at the same time destroyed within doors, to make room for domestic improvements. For drawings of both these relics, the Editor stands indebted, no less than his Subscribers, to the zeal and taste of Miss E. Wickens, of the Close. bSSkn \\\/Zw/m IotIo fKjs^JM /^^rr\ s^^^H Ski l^i^^^%l dp ' "^kJ " :Tll 1 PLATE XII. ANCIENT REFECTORY ON THE CANAL. Whether the building here delineated ever formed a portion of any Conventual or Monastic Establishment, appears, at this time, to say the least, extremely doubtful. That it was always designed for the purpose of a Hall or Banqueting-Room, every feature that remains, — its shape and dimensions, its position from North to South, the character of the windows and roof, the entrance-door and fire-place, — all combine to certify beyond a moment's question. Thus much we also know ; that enough remains, among other devices, in the painted glass, to display most conspicuously, in the central compartments, the arms of the Earldoms of Salisbury and Montacute on one shield, and of Warwick and Montacute on another. Now, the father of Richard Neville, second and last Earl of Salisbury of that name, married the heiress of Montacute, or Montagu, the last Earl of that family ; and this same Richard Neville was also the first and only Earl of Warwick of that name. Consequently, it may be well supposed, that both these coats of arms belonged to one and the same person in his two distinct characters, as Earl of Salisbury and Earl of Warwick. And as this coincidence held good only from 1462, the year of his creation, to 1471, when he was slain at the Battle of Barnet, we thus find the date of the windows reduced to a period exactly coinciding with the architecture of the fabric itself. On a later shield appear the arms of the See of Winchester, impaling those of James Montagu, brother of Edward Lord Montagu, who held that Bishoprick from the year 1616 to 1618. From the Merchant's mark, which so frequently occurs in this place as well as in the Parish Church, the building has been sometimes assigned, probably without authority, to an ancient Company of Clothiers. It only remains to add, that the restoration of this splendid and interesting room, which is now entirely choked with modern apartments, is the result of most careful survey and admea surement, without any alteration whatever, beyond the removal of temporary and incongruous obstructions. The furniture is, of course, imaginary. GOTHIC GATE-WAY ON THE CANAL. 1 nis is an arch of wood, now forming the entrance to a court, or passage, about fifty yards to the West ofthe Refectory. Possibly it may once have had some connexion with the former building, which was approached, in the memory of many now alive, by a pointed gate-way in front. Similar arches with the present, though on a smaller scale, will be found on the West side of Castle Street, and near the corresponding end of the Blue-Boar Row ; and probably in many less public situations throughout the older portions ofthe city. PLATE XIII. THE POULTRY-CROSS, RESTORED. The Poultry-Cross, formerly styled the Yarn-Market, as distinguished from Bernard's Cross, and the Cheese-Market, independent of its intrinsic beauty, has been made an object of con siderable dispute among antiquaries with respect to its origin and identity. The result of their inquiries, as deduced from the conflicting testimonies of Walsingham of St. Alban's Chronicle, and Fox's Martyrology, may be thus briefly detailed : — In the reign of Richard II., 1377-99, Lawrence de St. Martin, of Wardour Castle, Knight of the Shire of Wilts, — a friend of Wickliffe, and, as a Lollard, peculiarly suspicious in the sight of Bishop Ergham, — incurred the censure of that Prelate by a breach of eccle siastical discipline ; for which he was condemned to erect a Cross of stone in Salisbury, where the story of his disgrace should be narrated ; and to come every Friday of his life to the spot, in his shirt, bare-footed and bare-headed, and there upon his knees do penance for the offence. The fact may admit of some hesitation, but so it is, perhaps because this is the only Cross now standing, it is supposed to be the one recorded in the preceding narrative: and Mr. H. Wansey, in a paper inserted in the Archeeologia of 1789, even conjectures that the six angels, clustered round the central column, and facing the six arches that encircle it, may have formerly held the labels or inscriptions alluded to above. The Poultry-Cross has materially suffered from the lapse of time and alternations of the weather ; its niches and pinnacles are curtailed to less than half their fair proportions, and the canopy and cross are supplanted by a ball and sun-dial. The restorations here proposed are simple and appropriate : would it be thought extravagant to hope, that something of the kind might at no distant day be carried into execution ? A conspicuous figure in the fore-ground will be recognised by many an old inhabitant of Salisbury as that of Mr. Edmund Sutton, better known by the title of "Alderman Sutton," an amiable but eccentric character, who died in 1821, after having carried on the joint professions of baker and chirurgeon for nearly fifty years, in the house represented at the left hand corner of Minster Street and Silver Street. GABLE-ENDS IN SILVER STREET. Ihe Houses, of which the upper stories here appear, are mentioned in a deed of the 15th Century, preserved in the Parish chest of St. Thomas. Their decorated beams and figured tiles were swept away some years ago, to make room for the more convenient substitution of square parapets and sash windows. Two other Houses of considerable curiosity in Minster Street, scarcely perceptible in the back-ground of the Poultry-Cross, are also noticed in documents of very early date. Almost every row of building in the city furnishes examples of carved gables : in the upper part of Trinity Street are several deserving of particular attention. \^y^Jl£^€s^r\^^cu\rj^^,.e<jvj^^'^>iriA i-Li\M PLATE XIV. ST. THOMAS'S CHURCH, FROM THE RIVER. The Parish Church of St. Thomas a. Becket, erected, about the year 1240, as a Chapel of Ease to the Cathedral, forms a splendid ornament to the centre ofthe City. It consists of a Nave and Choir, with Clerestory, two Side-Aisles with Chancels, a Vestry-Room, and a quadrangular Tower, rising on the South side from the ground. This Tower is probably the work of a period not much earlier than the close ofthe 15th Century. In the lower compartment remain two niches, with a pair of headless and mutilated effigies ; one of them supposed to represent the Virgin and Child, the arms of the Cathedral ; the other the Martyr of Canterbury, to whose commemoration the building was dedicated by Bishop Bingham. It is impossible to help regretting that this noble structure, instead of terminating a view of the Market-Place, as was no doubt originally intended, should be now entirely enclosed and obstructed by a dense mass of surrounding houses. Even from the spot selected for the annexed view, some liberty is unavoidably taken, to display the great West Window, which has been most accurately restored by Mr. Osmond. Indeed, much credit is due to those con cerned in the general repairs of St. Thomas's, for having answered the desires of good taste and propriety out of very limited resources. PUBLIC-HOUSE AND BRIDGE AT FISHERTON. The Bridge here represented crosses a little wandering stream, which flows out of the Avon, above the Town Mill, into the united Rivers of the Wily and the Nadder, about the middle of the main Street of Fisherton. Of the Public-House little need be said, beyond what is con veyed to the passing traveller by the sign of " The Waggon and Horses." It is an old and curious relic, nevertheless ; and whether delineated on a block of wood, or met face to face in a walk along the water-side from the meadows below, may be deemed not unworthy its present position among the "Picturesque Memorials" ofthe suburbs. PLATE XV. COURT YARD OF THE WORK-HOUSE; THE GEORGE INN, HIGH STREET. The Work-House has already been described in Plate VII. The beautiful arrangement ofthe paved Court can hardly fail to strike the most ordinary observer. The interior is well worthy an attentive examination, by which the vestiges of the ancient Refectory, with other remains of domestic antiquity, may be distinctly identified. The George Inn, though now in most dilapidated condition, still exhibits, with its panelled bay-windows and carved gate-way, an object of melancholy attraction to the eye of the connoisseur. The house was certainly, in former days, a resort of jovial repute among the cavaliers and gallants of fashion. It was from hence that Robert Hungerford, second Lord Moleyns, or Molines, in his way to join the English army at Blaye, in Guienne, commanded by his relation, the famous Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1454, issued forth with his retainers to break sconces with the quiet citizens of New Sarum : and it was here that Mr. Pepys records his welcome, in 1668, to " a silken bed and very good diet,'' as well as to a most unwelcome bill of charges at his departure ; " at which," adds the gentleman, " I was mad, and resolve to trouble the Mistress about it, and get something for the poor ; and come away in that humour." (Diary, vol. ii. p. 237.) DOOR-WAY IN THE YARD OF THE GEORGE INN. 1ms is a very curious entrance-door, not easily assignable to any precise period of archi tecture : but whoever may happen to have seen its counterpart in the Chancel of Alderbury Church, might incline to attribute the building to which it is attached to the period of Edward II. or III. Houses for the accommodation of pilgrims visiting the shrines of England are said to have been dedicated, like that of Glastonbury, to her patron Saint. Two old gables at the opposite end of the yard add to the ruinous, but not unseemly, aspect of the place. As a spot of no less interest, though in a somewhat different way, may be here noticed a house, lately repaired with considerable judgment, and still known as the King's Arms, St. John Street. This is said to be the very Inn, at which the scheme was planned, in 1655, for rescuing the fugitive Charles from Boscobel, in Staffordshire, where he had taken shelter after the Battle of Worcester, and depositing him in safe concealment at Col. Wyndham's, in Dor setshire, till a vessel should be ready on the coast to convey him over to Normandy. erm' ¦ ¦¦1 F.nnii_ . , eiiia C k..Lij' tu tail' Er" IT. IT, l_: L!™'.- I l*"fcj : «6| !! Q " " "ill i irrn' CD EIO ¦ EG HE L " fc'J jlhUL,, (HEiB. ¦ cmL-'ii ' rx inpzJ; ¦ jipom.-}: || PLATE XVI. THE BISHOP'S PALACE. T.he Metropolitan Residence of the See of Salisbury, situated at the South- Eastern corner of the Close, was begun by Bishop Poore, and probably completed just before his translation to the See of Durham, in 1228. A variety of improvements, including the addition of the principal Hall, were executed about the middle of the 15th century, by Bishop Beauchamp. In the disorders of the great Rebellion, it was sold by the Cromwellian Parliament to two brothers, of the name of Barter, who demolished a part of the Hall, and converted the rest of the building into an Inn. On the restoration of Charles the 2nd, these dilapidations were restored, but with the usual incongruity of the times, by Bishop Ward ; and the whole edifice was further repaired by Bishop Sherlock (1734-48). At last, under the auspices of Bishop Barrington, the Palace was sentenced to the same system of liberal, but tasteless, innovation with the adjoining Church; when the Porch and Windows in the Western wing, seen towards the right-hand of the present View, were inserted according to a fantastic design of Sir Robert Taylor. From the Gallery above, which contains a valuable series of Episcopal Portraits, a most beautiful survey may be obtained of the Cathedral, Chapter-House, and Cloisters. The House and Gardens are nearly surrounded by the embattled Wall, before described, and are approached by a plain, but not inelegant, Gate-way, about the middle of Exeter Street. CANON BOWLES'S HOUSE. As an Ecclesiastical Mansion of great antiquity, — but, still more, as the successive abode of two of the literary constellations of Modern Wilts, — the building here delineated has an acknow ledged claim to public observation. The portion now used as a scullery exhibits the plainest traces of a Chapel, coeval with the style of the Cathedral. The outer walls, on the sides, are also original ; the front is a recent adaptation, devised by the present Proprietor. In a recess of the Garden stands a monumental Tablet, with the following Inscription to the honour of the late Archdeacon Coxe ; an author justly celebrated in the walks of History and Biography : — " * M. Gulmi- Coxe, Uteris per Europam illustris, W. L. B., Successor his iEdibus Canonicis, P. — m.dcccxxx." In the same Garden appears a Dial, thus inscribed : — " f Quamjucundi prseteriere dies ! W. L. B. Jan. 8, 1829. Obiit ." Society will have lost an accomplished poet, and a benevolent man, when the space left for the concluding date is filled up. * Erected to the Memory of William Coxe, famous throughout Europe in the pursuit of literature, by William Lisle Bowles, his successor in this Canonical Residence. 1830. t What pleasant days have passed away ! <K''y-'''''*'i¥\i ¦ ¦¦'• ¦ ¦ ¦¦ -". ¦.. . lit PLATE XVII. COLLEGE DE VAUX, HARNHAM. The whole of this edifice, which formerly stood in a meadow between the Cathedral and the River, is now demolished, and its place supplied by a row of modern houses. For the Drawing, from which the annexed Etching was engraved, the writer is happy to express his obligations to a gentleman, the least of whose regards for his native city are expressed in the zeal and ability with which he fulfils the office of Deputy Recorder. The College of Valle, or Vaulx, was founded by Bishop Bridport, about the year 1260, for a Warden, four Fellows, two Chaplains, and twenty Scholars, under the patronage of the Dean and Chapter. It appears that, in consequence of an impost laid on the University of Oxford, in 1238, for an insult offered to Otho, the Papal Legate, and of disturbances which had arisen out of a disagreeable visit from Prince Edward, son of Henry III., in 1255, many of the Students had been induced to withdraw, and pursue their studies in the College here provided expressly for their retreat. The restoration of tranquillity at Oxford, and the subsequent celebrity of Bishop Wykeham's School, at Winchester, conduced to the gradual decline of the establishment at New Sarum, which is described by Leland, in 1540-53, as dwindled to the maintenance of only eight poor Scholars. ANCIENT COLUMN IN WINCHESTER STREET. I his is precisely one of those insulated and heterogeneous fragments, of which it seems impos sible to ascertain the proper age or origin. It is carved in solid oak, and occupies the chimney- corner of a little old-fashioned house, just opposite the Black Horse, in Winchester Street. Tradition assigns it to some religious structure in that neighbourhood ; but whether the vicissi tudes of two or of ten centuries may have brought it to its present aspect and situation, must henceforth remain, in all probability, a matter of antiquarian conjecture. 4 PLATE XVIII. HUNGERFORD AND BEAUCHAMP CHAPELS, FORMERLY ATTACHED TO SALISBURY CATHEDRAL. Of these beautiful examples of the monumental Chancels of our forefathers, the former was removed from the Northern, the latter from the Southern side of the Lady Chapel, in the general work of devastation, in 1789. The engravings here given are borrowed from that splendid and elaborate work, the Sepulchral Monuments of Mr. Gough. The first, to the memory of Robert, Lord Hungerford, who died in 1459, was erected by his widow. In the middle of the wall, upon the right, appears the full-length figure of a Gallant, dressed according to the fashion of Henry the 6th, in a short doublet, with slashed sleeves, a cord and bow at his waist, black collar and pantaloons, piked shoes, a high hat and feather, a dagger at his girdle, rings on his fingers, and a staff in his left hand ; the right held np in alarm at the approach of Death, who stands before him in a shroud, with an open coffin at his feet. A little nearer, on the same wall, and nearly over the entrance door, appears a half figure, in a Doctor's gown, with a mutilated inscription underneath. Still nearer, and not visible in the present View, was another painting of Death and a Pilgrim ; the former almost obliterated. And, finally, the Western wall was occupied with sketches of the Salutation of Elizabeth, and of St. Christopher wading through the ford with our Lord upon his shoulder. This Chapel is not to be confounded with that of Walter, the preceding Lord Hungerford, formerly standing on the North side of the Nave, but now removed to the South side of the Choir, opposite to that of Bishop Audley, and fitted up as a Pew for the Earl of Radnor's family. The other was built and endowed by Richard Beauchamp, Bishop of Salisbury, some years before his death, which took place in 1481. Out of the remains of both these Chapels were formed the modern Organ-screen, and likewise the Altar-piece and Seats which surround the Lady Chapel. CATHEDRAL PORCH, IN MR. WYNDHAM'S GARDEN. T-here cannot be the slightest ground for .assigning this elegant structure to an earlier, if, indeed, so early a date as that of the present Cathedral. The Spire and Pinnacles, and some fragments of the sides, are modern ; for the rest, the history of its transplantation from the entrance of the North Transept may be best told in the Inscription by which the event is recorded, from the pen of its late proprietor : — " iEdem hane, quae, olim in Sorbioduno Urbe extructa, et postea, Urbem Novam transvecta, portam, plus quingentos annos, Ecclesias Cathedralis borealem, jam nunc occlusam, vestibuli loco adumbraverat, Decani Capitulique assensu, hic demum collocari curavit * H. P. W.— A. D. 1791." * This building, originally constructed in the City of Old Sarum, and afterwards transferred to the New Cily, where, for upwards of five hundred years, it served as a Vestibule to the Northern Door of the Cathedral, now closed up, was placed on this spot, with consent of the Dean and Chapter, by Henry Penruddoche Wyndham, in the year 1791. PLATE XIX. CLOSE-GATE, IN HIGH STREET, WITH THE COLLEGE OF MATRONS. Although the position of the opposite Gate, in the direct line from Old Sarum to the Cathedral, would naturally denote it to have been the first of those erected round the Close, yet the present aspect of the structure is evidently of later fashion than the rest. The decorations are indeed remarkably rich and elegant, particularly the spandrils at the angles of the arch, and the row of quatrefoils above. The arms are those of England, in the reign of Charles the Second, whose statue appears on the other side, — a dwarfish, clownish figure, with huge head and bandy legs, more resembling crook-backed Richard than the Merry Monarch of the House of Stuart. The Matrons' College, seen through the Arch, was erected and endowed in 1682, by Seth Ward, Bishop of Sarum, for the maintenance often Widows of Clergymen of the Established Church, The endowment was considerably augmented, in 1796, by a bequest of William Benson Earle, Esq., and now affords to its inmates a most respectable and comfortable retreat. HARNHAM GATE. This is another entrance to the Close, communicating with De Vaux Place. It partakes some what more than usual of a military character, and has the advantage of retaining its original proportions, while all the others have been more or less curtailed in height by the accumulation of soil round the bases of the arch. fcjy s mi PLATE XX. THE KING'S HOUSE; THE LATE RESIDENCE OF GENERAL SIR JOHN SLADE. There are few towns of importance, especially in the South of England, or in the vicinity of the Royal Forests, which have not a King's House to boast of. These are, generally, as in the present instance, an ancient style of mansion, built or purchased for the abode ofthe Monarch, during his periodical progress through the Country. Such Visitations, under Elizabeth and James the First, were long famous for their splendour ; but it is only from Charles the Second that Salisbury derives her claim to this distinction. The pile of building, as it now stands, has been parcelled out, at different times, into a range of smaller tenements, and again united into one ; losing, in every alteration, much of its early form and arrangement, but still retaining, under its thick mantle of evergreens, a picturesque and venerable appearance. PORCH OF THE KING'S HOUSE. The form of the arch, and groining of the roof, were thought to merit a separate representa tion for the Porch, as supplementary to the House itself. Both are excellent examples of their kind, and of a better age than most of those we find attached to ordinary residences. ¦'¦ .-. ^mm ivateg Mfc ^m assi: wATC1 ' i^7v9flw all i flisifflj: *!m = ¦ ,.v. . ..,-. iSB!^3&y 9t8B if»ite^i ' , ' ' i, i i -' ; i i l»Ii1;HafJ . ii. ¦ tr .,•¦:',- \ .¦-.¦.¦. .¦¦„¦-¦: fit- - -¦¦¦„' ¦> . ..[¦ i--.:Vi '¦" ¦¦¦"li. ¦.-¦¦-"¦¦'¦ \ PI JTTlP, ¦• , 'I'M '¦ ¦ -V ' *¦ i'lliiJMBiwHfflffllBlHin- PLATE XXI. THE MUNIMENT-ROOM, IN SALISBURY CATHEDRAL. It is a circumstance somewhat remarkable, that in the Cathedral of Salisbury should exist one of the most curious apartments in England, which has never before been either engraved or described, nor, apparently, either noticed or known to a single inhabitant. But the fact is, the Muniment-Room is a store-house of Records, of so great importance to the owners of the property of the Church, as to impose the strictest necessity for seclusion, and of so little interest to any one else, as to offer no temptation to the curiosity of intruders. The room itself can only be visited under the personal superintendance of the appointed officer : but by those who can obtain that privilege, the opportunity should not be lost. An idea of massive strength and simplicity pervades every feature of the place. Door within door guards the approach from the Southern Transept. The windows are small, and strongly barricaded. The oaken rafters appear as fresh as when they were first wedged together. And for the furniture, it is, no doubt, as old, and certainly as strange, as the habitation which it occupies. Here are chests and cupboards, crammed with ancient deeds ; the very stools and benches savouring of the monastic ages. One of the principal repositories is an oblong box, the lid secured by seven locks, answering to the number of Residentiaries who compose the Chapter, and raised by a pulley and wheel, affixed -to the central column. On a table are the implements for affixing the official seal ; and on the floor a hearth intended for a charcoal fire. Many an Antiquary would give his ears for a few weeks' forage among the parchments, which lie, at present, in most irregular repose, — " blattarum ac tinearum epulse,* " — a feast for moths and spiders. * Hor. Sat. 2. iii. 119. REGAL CHAIR, IN THE CLOSE. Salisbury abounds in old Chairs, many of them richly and curiously carved. As a specimen of the whole, the present is selected, not as surpassing all in beauty, but as, probably, of native workmanship, and, perhaps, from the figure of the crown, connected with the King's House, already noticed. It is now in the possession of Miss E. Wickens, by whose consent the accom panying sketch was taken ; and to whom the Editor desires to make this tardy acknowledgment for the representation of the curious Gable-ends exhibited on the reverse of Plate xiii. El-.-b,,/.!.,,' i ,¦,.!¦! PLATE XXII. ST. ANNE'S STREET. From the upper end of St. Anne's Street we obtain one of the best views of the Cathedral ; to which the gradual descent from Milford Hill forms a favourable approach : but the extraordi nary height of the Spire can never be duly estimated, unless when it is seen over some of the masses of high ground, by which the City is surrounded. TOMB OF THE DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM, IN BR1TFORD CHURCH. Such is the distinction conferred, after a variety of conjectures, on this beautiful relic of monumental sculpture. We know that Edward, the last of the Staffords who bore the title of Buckingham, having promoted an insurrection in the West of England against the Duke of Gloucester, whom, but the year before, he had succeeded in raising to the throne under the name of Richard the 3rd, was carried prisoner to Salisbury, and there summarily condemned, — " Off with his head ; — so much for Buckingham !" The unfortunate Nobleman was accordingly executed, one Sunday morning, in the year 1483, in the Court-yard of the Blue Boar Inn, — the spot now occupied by Mr. Sparshatt's house, in the Market-place, — and his remains conveyed for interment to a Village Church within a mile or two of the City. That Britford was that Church, and that this is the monument of unhappy Buckingham, is confidently argued by Sir Richard Colt Hoare. The present Church is a massive pile of modern masonry, in the form of a cross, with a tower at the intersection. Attached to the northern side is a spacious Mausoleum, belonging to the family of Earl Radnor, whose curious mansion, Longford Castle, stands within the Parish. PLATE XXIII. ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL, HARNHAM. Of the ruinous structure here delineated, as it stands on a small island between the two bridges, no records whatever have hitherto been published. It is generally known by the title of " The Chapel of St. John the Baptist," and is said to have been founded by Bishop Bingham ; but whether parochially connected with the Village of East Harnham, which is known to have existed before the commencement of the New City, or whether an endowment only of private charity, must continue unknown, unless the researches, now in progress, into the ecclesiastical and municipal archives of the place shall have supplied more ample materials for a History of Salisbury than those hitherto collected. THE HOSPITAL OF ST. NICHOLAS, HARNHAM. St. Nicholas Hospital (called, by Holingshed, St. Migell's) may be considered, both for its antiquity and its beauty, as one of the most important " Memorials of Salisbury." It is here represented only on a humble scale ; but a highly finished copper-plate, representing nearly the same view, has been lately published by Mr. Wainwright, Master of the National School, to which it would be an indifferent compliment to say, that it ought to be bound up with the present volume. The Hospital stands on the Northern side of the River Avon, opposite to the Chapel of St. John, and separated by the high road from the site of the College of De Vaux. It was founded and endowed about the year 1220, at the instigation of Bishop Poore, by Ela, wife of William Longspee, sixth Earl of Salisbury, natural son of Henry the 2nd and Fair Rosamond, for six poor men, and six poor women. On the dissolution of Religious Houses, the College of De Vaux fell to the Master of St. Nicholas, for whom a residence was afterwards contrived by a curtailment of the dimensions of the Chapel, as may be seen from the line of arches of the Nave which still appear along the outer walls of the house. In the kitchen, formerly a Chancel, appears a beautiful piscina, or altar-sink. The Bridge, designed by Bishop Poore, was constructed by his successor, Bishop Bing ham, in 1244 ; and, by forming a more direct communication with the South- Western parts of England, materially injured the commerce and prosperity ofthe neighbouring town of Wilton. PLATE XXIV. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL, CHAPTER-HOUSE, AND CLOISTERS. Ihe scene here given is engraved from a drawing by Mr. Cattermole. The draftsman took his station at one of the Clerestory windows, over the southern Aisle of the Nave ; and has succeeded in representing a picturesque combination of outlines, including the Southern Transept, the Cloisters, and the Chapter-House ; with the Bishop's Palace and Garden in the back-ground. It may be noticed, as a matter of much regret, that the Round Table, exhibited in the Chapter-House for five hundred years, as that on which the labourers, who constructed the beautiful fabric of Bishop Poore, were paid their penny-a-day, has lately fallen a sacrifice to injudicious renovation. This was, perhaps, the most curious specimen of domestic furniture in England. But a few years ago, it was as perfect as at the day when it was made ; and, if allowed to stand untouched, might have lasted five centuries more, in a condition firm enough for all the purposes for which it was ever likely to be wanted. Representations of this Table will be found in the Cathedral Histories of Dodsworth and Britton, and, to still better effect, in a recent Number of the Gentleman's Magazine. The Cloisters, which have long been suffering from the injuries of time and weather, are now in the course of careful repair and restoration. ANCIENT HORN, IN THE COUNCIL-HOUSE. This is one of the few relics preserved from the destruction ofthe old Council-House,— an event which will be duly noticed hereafter. It was formerly used by the night-watch, in case of fire, or other cause of alarm in the City. PLATE XXV. ST. EDMUND'S CHURCH. The College or St. Edmuxd, * Sarum, was founded by Bishop Walter de la Wyle, or Wyvil, in the year 1268, for the maintenance of a Provost and twelve Secular Canons. At the dis solution, under Henry the 8th, it was vested in the crown ; but after passing, by royal grant, through a variety of hands, it finally came into possession of Sir Wadham Wyndham, Knt., in 1660. The house has continued in that family ever since ; but the patronage of the Church has lapsed to the Bishop of the Diocese. Of the original Church, it is certain that not an atom now remains, f On Sunday, June 26th, 1653, just at the close of evening service, the tower gave way with a tremendous crash, and so materially injured the rest of the fabric, as to suggest the necessity of rebuilding altogether. Indeed, the old foundation can still be traced, considerably to the west of the present pile. The present Church is a remarkably handsome specimen of the architecture of an indifferent age ; and stands in one of the most spacious Church-yards in England. The interior is excellently arranged for public worship, and furnished with a beautiful organ. It was in the former building, and in the year 1632, that the Recorder of the City, Henry Sherfield, Esq., in a fit of puritanical enthusiasm, destroyed the painted windows, in which the six days' work of the Creation was represented, with some remarkable errors of chronology. For this offence, he was fined 500Z., by the Star-Chamber, at the instigation of the Primate Laud, and compelled to make apology before the Bishop. The windows of the modern Chancel (the principal of which represents the Ascension, after Raphael, with Landscape, by Poussin) were executed by Egington, at the sole expense of the late Samuel Whitchurch, Esq. * St. Edmund was born at Abingdon, in Berkshire. He was Treasurer of the Cathedral of Salisbury, and afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. -f By a strange oversight, the present building (every moulding of which bespeaks a modern hand) is ascribed, in the Gentleman's Magazine (May, 1830), to the 14th century. The Vestry-Room, built by the present generation, is also called a modernised Chapel. Every line of this description, as well as that of the other Churches in Salisbury, is full of similar mistakes. PULPIT OF ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH. This is by far the best of all the pulpits in Salisbury, though made up at several periods of art ; it is therefore given as a favourable specimen of the whole. That in St. Thomas's is mostly of a later period, with a sounding-board of preposterous dimensions. The carved oak and composition mouldings ofthe Cathedral are modern, and full of incongruities. ''''¦'¦Mf'^^^^^^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^S^^^^ry^, PLATE XXVI. HOUSES OF CANON HUME AND JAMES LACY, ESQ. The Canonical Residence, in the fore-ground, has, of late years, lost some of its more primitive features, and especially the bay-window of the projecting front, which is supplanted by a square sash. The Gothic structure, represented in the rear, now occupied by Dr. Grove, was repaired, with great judgment and effect, by its late owner, Mr. James Lacy. It has been known, from time immemorial, by the title of " The Wardrobe," and is conjectured to have served in that capacity as an adjunct to the King's House, already noticed. Another specimen of Mr. Lacy's taste and knowledge of architectural adaptation may be seen in the Elizabethan School-House, just completed at Laverstock, at the expense of the Lord Bishop of Salisbury. FIRE-PLACE, AT THE BARRACKS, IN BROWN-STREET. This is, probably, the oldest fire-place in Salisbury. The form is singular, and the pattern, — that of the Tudor age, — executed in stone, with remarkable boldness and simplicity. Of a later date, we find a considerable variety, most elaborately carved in wood. Two of these remain in the Friary, at Bugmore ; another, in the King's House, in the Close ; a third, in the Antelope Hotel ; and a fourth, in a house near the Old George Inn, High Street. Another, in stone, was removed some years ago from the Deanery, and is now in possession of Mr. Osmond, the mason ; and another, discovered in the demolition of the old Council Chamber, is engraved in the Gentleman's Magazine, for 1788. For the pen and ink drawing, from which the subjoined wood-cut was executed, the Editor is again indebted to the kindness of Miss E. Wickens. PLATE XXVII. INTERIOR OF ST. THOMAS'S CHURCH. We have here a correct view of the interior of this splendid structure. The main arches of the Nave are of the finest character ; the windows equally bold and elegant ; the tracery and foliage particularly chaste and light ; and the roof most curiously carved with historical and emblematic devices. Some portions of the southern Gallery are as old as the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and rest on sculptured figures. The Altar-piece occupies the whole of the large window of the Chancel. It was painted, and presented to the Church, in 1809, by Mr. Douglas Guest, and represents the Transfigura tion ; but is certainly deficient in many of the most important characteristics of decorative art. Under an altar-tomb, in the Chancel, it was long supposed that the remains of Henry, Duke of Buckingham, were interred. But since the satisfactory discoveries at Britford Church, the monument here alluded to has been assigned to William Ludlow, butler to Henry the 4th, 5th, and 6th ; at whose expense the ceiling of the North Aisle was put up. On the South side is the Chantry of the family of Swayne, long connected with the civic honours of Salisbury. Not many years ago, a curious painting of the Judgment of the twelve Tribes of Israel was discovered on the wall, over the great arch which separates the Nave and Chancel. An incorrect etching of it may be seen in one of the early Numbers of Sir R. C. Hoare's Modern Wiltshire. The original was soon washed over, as well as two other figures, representing Henry the 2nd, and Thomas a Becket, which were before visible at the bases of the same arch. Many parts of this Church will remind the scientific and antiquarian visitor, of that of St. Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. CHANCEL-SCREEN, IN ST. THOMAS'S CHURCH. The Chantries, on either side of the Chancel, are portioned off by arches ; and the space of the arch, nearest the Eastern wall on either side, is occupied by a low Screen, one of which is here delineated. The sculpture is very beautiful, and probably the scrolls, held by the Angels, once contained the Pater-noster, or some other devotional or monitory inscription. The beam- ends and bosses of the roof are likewise elegantly sculptured with heads, and other figures. PLATE XXVIII. THE OLD COUNCIL-HOUSE, WITH MR. WHEELER'S SHOP. Mr. Grose, in his Antiquities of England, compares the Council-House of Salisbury to a Dutch or German Stad-House. It appears to have been erected in the year 1573, on the site of a venerable elm, somewhat to the North of the present building. It was constructed princi pally of timber, and consisted of four stories, surmounted by a heavy cupola or lantern. The lower part was occupied by the Law and Criminal Courts ; the upper part by the Council- Chamber, and other offices. This curious pile was destroyed by fire, on the night of November the 17th, 1780, after the annual feast, provided for the citizens by the Mayor elect. The new Council-House was commenced in 1788, and completed in 1795, after a design by Sir Robert Taylor, and at the expense of Jacob, late Earl of Radnor, Recorder of the City. Besides other pictures, there is here deposited a whole-length portrait of Queen Anne, by Dahl, formerly belonging to the October Club, at Westminster. There are also two splendid chairs, appropriated to the Mayor ; the former of them presented in the mayoralty of Robert Bower, 1585 ; the latter, a more recent gift of one of the City Members. It is remarkable, that Mr. Wheeler's house, which appears upon the right hand, was also destroyed by fire, not many years ago. It was a valuable specimen of the style ofthe 14th and 15th centuries, and was rendered still more conspicuous by a front of shining white, with the intersecting ribs and beams painted a deep red. THE OLD GUILDHALL. The present wood-cut is taken from a drawing, kindly communicated by a lady, and executed after an original sketch in the possession of W. Boucher, Esq., the Chapter-Clerk. This ancient building stood behind the old Council-House, — occupying, in fact, the precise spot where the present pile was subsequently erected. Besides the Guildhall, it comprised also the Debtor's Court, and other offices of public convenience. It was saved from the fire of 1780, but removed a few years afterwards. CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS. Page 2, line 26 — Sunning, near Reading ; now generally spelt Sonning or Soiling. ¦ Page 6, line 3 — For Edrick, read Edric. Page 9, line 28 — The City-Gates were probably set up about the year 1443. The Green-Croft was levelled in 1625. Page 13, line 12 — The miracle of St. Nicholas, in the restoration of three children, who had been burked and pickled in a pork-tub, will be found in Hone's E very-Day-Book (vol. 1, p. 1556). Page 17, line 39 — For Strasbourgh read Strasburg. Page 24, line 31 — These canals are supposed to have been dug about the year 1384. Page 25, line 5 — To the charities here enumerated might be added Mr. Hussey's tenements, in Castle-street, and several others. Plate 1, line 2 — For Choral-Vicar read Lay -Vicar. Plate 2, line 3 — The apartment over St. Anne's Gate-way was Mr. Harris's music-room. Hereabouts (perhaps in the house now occupied by the Misses Noyes) was originally the Common Hall of the Dean and Chapter. Vignette 2, line 4. — Query, for .ffirfread Fid? though no such name occurs upon the list of Canons, preserved in the " History of the Churches of Salisbury and Bath," 1719, Svo. Plate 3, line 3 — On further consideration of this subject, the writer is much inclined to suspect, that the present residence of the Master of St. Nicholas' Hospital (decidedly of Norman origin) was the desecrated barn pointed out to Leland, as the remains of Old St. Martin's. Plate 6, lines 5, 9— The old Cathedral organ was built, in 1710, by the celebrated Renatus Harris, who made another, out of the refuse of the materials, for the Church of St. Andrew's, Holborn. Plate 12, line 22 — This beautiful room, the property of Mr. Sampson Payne, is now in the course of careful restoration, under the superintendence of Mr. Beare. When completed, for the exhibition of china, glass, and other wares, it will form the most curious and splendid shop in Wiltshire, — perhaps in England. Such are the early results of an attention to local topography ! Plate 13, line 1.— It seems more probable, on reference to p. 20 of the preceding History, that the Yarn-Market was never held on the spot where the Poultry-Cross now stands, but under the elm-tree, which was removed to make way for the former Council-House.' — Line 6. If this story is intended to establish the first existence of a Cross on this spot, the whole narrative is overthrown at once by the fact, that the Cross is mentioned in the Chapter-Records as early as 1335 : though it is by no means unlikely, that an older and less elaborate structure may have given way to the peace-offering of the penitent Knight. — Line 17. The Editor regrets to say, that apian which he ventured to suggest a twelvemonth ago for the restoration ofthe Poultry-Cross, was not so fortunate as to excite attention. He sincerely hopes that some person, of more influence than himself, will suggest a better, and wipe away the reproach incurred by the city at large in the present condition of that fabric. Vignette 15, line 2 There is another door, of similar form, in the north aisle of West Grimstead Church, near Farley. CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS. Plate 18, line 15 The legend of St. Christopher occurs again in a small compartment of a painted window, in the inner vestry of St. Thomas's. St. Christopher was the patron of Tailors ; and the Tailors' Company of Salisbury (who were incorporated in 1456) still bring out their Giant and Hob-nob to perform their parts on the occasion of civic and national festivities. Plate 19, line 6. — This statue is said by some to he that of James the 1st, and to have been executed from the life by Humphrey Beckham, at one of his Majesty's visits to the City. It is also supposed, that the niche originally held an image of Henry the 3rd. The gate-way, like St. Anne's, has a few traces of Norman sculpture intermixed. Plate 20, line 5.— The King's House, now occupied by Lieutenant-General Shrapnel, is supposed to have been the residence of Richard the 3rd, at the time when Buckingham was brought up for insurrection. About fifteen years before this event (in 1468), Thomas Hungerford, son of Lord Molines, and Henry Courtney, son of the Earl of Devon, had been tried and condemned before the Duke of Gloucester for a similar offence, and suffered the " full cruel death " upon the gallows-tree, at Bemerton. It is remarkable, that the fathers of both of these delinquents were attainted. Vignette 21 The tomb has been thus described by Sir R. C. Hoare : — " The first shield, bearing a cheveron, denotes the arms of Stafford, Duke of Buckingham. The second shield, bearing a fesse engrailed, represents the arms of Widvile, Earl Rivers, whose daughter, Katherine, was wedded to Henry Stafford, Duke of Buckingham No inscription appears ever to have been placed on this tomb, probably out of delicacy to the event which occasioned its erection ; but the sad tale is as fully told by the figures on the base, as by letters. There are six niches, richly decorated with finials, &c. The first is left vacant, as a kind of cenotaph for the unfortunate Duke. I imagine that the second, a female figure, having a crown on her head, represents his Duchess. The third is a Bishop* deploring the Duke's fate. The fourth is another female, crowned, and holding in one hand the Duke's bonnet or cap, and in the other his sword. The fifth figure is evidently the executioner. The sixth is a female with an infant in her arms, and deploring the sad event Thus, in these figures, we find a full explanation of the event from which this monument originated ; and amongst the numerous altar-tombs which I have seen, I do not recollect a, similar one, recording facts ; as the different compartments are usually filled by angels, monks, or knights holding shields of arms, &c." The inscription on the brass over the back of the tomb is modern : — " Henricus Stafford, Dux Buckingham. .decapitat. apud Salisburi. 1 Rich. III. A.D. 1483." • Lionel Woodvill, or Widvile, was Bishop of Sarum at this period. V The St'al> which appears on the Title-page, is that of the Dean and Chapter. It represents the Virgin and Child under a canopy, surmounted by a rude design, perhaps intended for the Cathedral. The following is the inscription round the edge :— " S(igillum) S(an)C(t)E MARIE SARESBIRIENSIS ECC(lesi)E AD PETICIONES ET AD C(aus)AS." 8933