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YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON B.A..1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION • HUNTING & FISHING
GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1 897

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SEAWA^-PRESBWEY DEPT , M'KERl
B74 BROAJWAV, NEW Vabl:

AN is a nomad. In his natural .
state, before he was hampered '
b)r the conventionalities of so
ciety, or the demands of trade ancH
commerce, he wandered aimlessly
from hither to yon. "Where his tepee
or skin-covered hovel was pitched, there was his
home. The modern man inherits the instincts of his
aboriginal forefathers and wanders from his native
heath as far as his purse strings will allow and when
ever the opportunities offer. This spirit of exploration,
this ever-strong instinct of the human race to penetrate
into unkno-wn countries, and sail trackless seas, led the Egyptians
three thousand years before Christ to build vessels, the prows of
which they decorated with carved images of goddesses, whose smiles
were sought upon their explorations. It led the Norsemen across the
great Atlantic, and was the ruling inspiration of Columbus, as it
¦-- has been that of all the explorers down to the days of Livingston,
"'¦ "' Greeley and Peary, It has peopled continents and made the deserts
bloom, created commerce and girdled the world with lines of ship and
- . rail. It has made all men brothers, and has wiped
- out the intellectual boundaries of the universe.
-,:, There is, perhaps, no nation in which this inborn
instinct to travel is stronger than in the American.
Go where you will, ^-ou find the country webbed with railroads,
and the stations and trains filled -with an ever-restless throng.
Stand upon the piers and see the ocean steamers leave, their
decks crowded with tourists, and the wharves with people who
secretly stifle the wish that they too were going, as they bid the
happy travellers boii voyage. The spirit of travel is universal.
Northerners go South for the winter and Southerners come
to the mountains and seashores of the North for the summer.

Eastern people spend vacation days
in the West and "Westerners come
East, Families migrate in sum
mer as regularly as the birds start
south at the first motion of Jack
Frost's magic wand. Scientists
tell us there is life in motion of
inanimate nature; and so, too,
there must be intellectual and
physical life and health in the ever
swinging pendulum of a moving
humanity. Americans have discovered
within recent years that there are
some provinces by the sea, located
as the mariners would say nor'
nor'east of us, which for whole
some climate and varied sights
offer a greater wealth of attractions
during summer days than is pos
sessed by any other nearby region.
Geographers have given to them
name of the Maritime Provinces,
they embrace Nova Scotia, with outlying-
Cape Breton Island, New Brunswick and
Prince Edward Island. This modern
discovery has turned a great tide of tour-

the
and

" The fleets of pleasure yachts whicn Hy across tlie waves lil
of white-winged birds.
ist travel toward their shores, for each
returning traveller has told with ardent
enthusiasm of the charming climate, the
novel sights and scenes, the foreign
atmosphere and quaint customs, the
hospitality of the people ; and lastly, but
by no means the least important facts, that
the country is but one night away from
Boston, and the journey may be made

Shaping her course down the harbor whose shores are dotted
with historical points."
in the ileetest, safest and most luxur
ious ocean steamships, and at an ex
pense so trifling that the trip is within
reach of those in the most moderate cir
cumstances. The interest of the journey to the
Maritime Provinces begins
the moment the steamer takes
on life and the screws start
their revolutions at the Boston
wharf. Slowly the great ship,
a veritable floating palace,
draws away from her pier.
The gay crowds on deck, full
of delightful anticipations of
the trip, wave adieus to the -
friends who have thronged
the wharf to see them off ; and
then, as the vessel shapes
her course and turns her prow
seaward, those on deck gather
in little groups to enjoy the
varied scenery of Boston's
; a flocii beautiful harbor. "While the
city, with the gilded dome of
the State House and scores
of spires and well-known land marks sink
slowly into the horizon, Castle Island,
Fort Warren, Fort Independence and
other points freighted with Revolutionary
memories in the harbor are passed in
rapid succession, and over to the left a
panoramic view is had of the busy city
of Lynn, Revere Beach, Swampscott,
Deer Island, Winthrop and fashionable
Nahant, with its charming sum
mer homes by the sea.
Pemberton and Nantasket,
the Manhattan Beach and gi-eat
i^leasure resorts of Boston, are
to be seen to the right as the
stately ship carefully makes her
way down the channel through

¦Tile ever-present military in Ihijifax.'

the fleet of pleasure yachts
and fishing sloops, square
rigged ships and tramps of
the sea ; and then, as the pilot
shapes his cour,se out between
the Boston and twin lights,
standing like sentinels at
either side of the deep sea
gateway of Boston harbor, the
horizon widens, the broad
Atlantic unrolls majestically
before you and its tempered
breezes sweep across the
decks, bringing- roses to faded
cheeks and strength and vital
ity to the weary.
A journey by sea is of
itself a delight; for there is
attached to the very life aboard
ship, a charm and novelt)'.
It is refreshing always in its
absolute freedom from th'
moil and dust of travel by rail, no matter
how much luxury may surround the latter,
and no where
else can be had
such coni-

noise, tur-

i-es and warehouses of the I'lant Line are all painted in the
company's colors, and are the finest in l-lalifa.x "
again it is a school of graceful porpoises
giving your vessel a race for a half mile
or so and then disappearing as suddenlv
as they came in sight.
You are impressed with the perfect
system aboard ship. There is none bet
ter, even on the crack ocean liners, every
thing is literally in "ship shape," and
when you go below to meals you will find
them served in a dining saloon, the fur
nishings of which are not only in excel
lent taste, but rich in wood and tapestry.
And what meals ! The markets of Boston
and those of Halifax have been levied
cacies from mount-
brook -^ m^ and meadow df

'Some of tile crack Rnjflish regiments are always stationed at Halif;i\
fortified British stronghold on the American continent"

You make friends of your com
panions of the voyage. By com
mon consent the ship's company
becomes one great family for the
time being. You saunter about
the decks, and nap in easy chairs ;
you forget the busy work-a-day
world you have left behind you
and interest yourself in the inci
dents of the hour. Now it is a
whale spouting over to the left ;

Nova Scotia, served with toothsome
meats from the Western prairies and the
specialties of New England, furnish a
menu the like of which no king or prince
of Europe can boast.
You forget time except as j'ou may
hear the half-hours struck on the ship's bell
forward. The day is' gone before you
realize it, and you watch the king of
the heavens as he slowly relinquishes his
sceptre to the stars and sinks majestically

u 1 f=,v »re a source of great pride to the citizens, and
The Public Gardens m^ Halifax are a source^ ,#ainta,ned."

in the great dry dock at II
British man-of-w ai

below the watery horizon. And
then the twflight, that lovliest of
all times at sea, follows, and
night and darkness close in
and a hush comes over every
thing. You hear naught but
the hum of happy conver
sation about you and the
indistinct throbbings of the
great engines far below
you which are driv
ing the ship with
mighty energy
along hercourse.
You retire and
say "goodnight"
to America and
awaken after a
glorious rest to
say "good morn
ing" to Nova
Scotia, for when
you go up on
deck you see
over on the port
side the shores
of this fair land,
with here and
there a light
house, and a
village gleaming white in the early morn
ing's sun, with fleets of fishing boats lying
at anchor or making sail in the cliff-shel
tered harbors. And then you realize
that you are in sight of foreign shores,
and have been but one night out from
Boston, that you have crossed the cor
ner of the broad Atlantic and are at the
threshold of one of most charmingly
interesting regions on the continent.
That you have been able to do this ;
that this great vacation land of North
America is now so easy of access, is due
to the- sagacity, foresight and enter
prise of the
Canada-Atlan
tic and Plant
SteamshipLine, univer
sally known as
the Plant Line,
whose superb
fleet embraces
the " Grand
Duchess," the
"Halifax" and
" O li vet te."
Two round
trips a week are
made between
Boston and Halifax and one, a longer one,
between Boston and Charlottetown, the
capital and chief city of Prince Edward
Island, by way of Hawkesbury and the

straits of Canso, which divide
Nova Scotia and Cape Breton.
If there is any one man to
whom Americans owe a debt of
gratitude for the magnificent
plans he has made to enable
people to enjoy the pleasures
ot travel, that man is
Henry B. Plant,
president of i.he
great and com
prehensive Plant
system of rail
roads and steam
ship lines. He
has not only
made a paradise
out of western
Florida, but has
erected at Tam
pa Ba}', at an
expense of more
than $2,000,000,
the most mag
nificently plan
ned and luxuri
ously furnished
resort palace in
America, and
has made it pos
sible by his railroad service for the travel
ler to reach there quickly and in great
comfort from the chief cities North and
West. He has made Winter Park, in
the lake regions of Florida, an ideal re
sort, and provided in the Seminole a
hotel at w-hich the traveller from the
North may find all the joys and pleasures
of a semi-tropical existence. He has
reached further south, and the steamers
of his line, the favorite, "Mascotte" and
other steamships, ply regularly all the
year between Tampa Bay and Havana,
Cuba, forming a popular tourist route,

tax there is almost always
being o\'erhauled."

1>/- &

"The harbor reverberates with the heavy salutes from the ships of the naval squadron which
has its rendezvous at Halifax."

and offering a delightful winter's excur
sion to the tropics at small expense.
From Tampa Bay, where he has built,
right over the water, a good half mile

"The lighthouse which has guided many a craft to the
entrance of this noble harbor."
from the shore proper, the quaint Tampa
Bay Inn, steamers also make regularly
appointed tours to Jamaica, affording a
chance to many travellers to spend a
week or so on this gem of the Antilles.
While all this great development
has been pushed vigorously in the South
by Mr. Plant, he has at the same time
been improving his lines between the
United States and the Maritime Prov
inces. He was one of the first to fore
see what has since been so abundantlv
proven, that Nova Scotia and Prince
Edward Island were the most desirable ,
summering spots within easy access
for Americans, and that they would,
as they have now become, the favorite
and chosen regions for health as well
as pleasure seekers. The policy of the
entire Plant System reflects the gene
rous, broad-minded spirit of its creator.
It is not to see just how little can be
done for its patrons to keep them from
complaining, but rather to do all for
them, and give them every conven
ience and luxury that good executive
management considers the business will
stand. Thus it has be
come an axiom
among travelers that
one is al-

manned, if it flies the Plant Line pen
nant at the foremast. Your stateroom
will be large, well-ventilated and your
bed and linen immaculate. You will find
the officers courteous and obliging, and
what is of more importance, thorough
seamen of long training, for there is
not a captain on the line, or any officer
of the higher grades, who has not gained
his nautical knowledge by many years
of practical experience.
The shores of Nova Scotia which
are in view from the decks of the Plant
Line steamers some hours before reach
ing Halifax have been likened to those
of Norway. They are indent
ed with innumerable deep
harbors and inlets and manv
frowning itnd rocky
promontories and

¦¦JiL'.^'i-Ol-iH

ways c e r-
tain of find
ing the very
best of ac
commoda
tions upon
the steam
ship s of
this line.
Your ship
is sure to
be staunch,
fast, well-
equipped and well-

'* The majestic Sebastopol monument is one of the many
interesting objects."

" ''"''E,""'y building now remaining of those upon the
Ouke of Kent's estate is the band house."
sea-s-wept ledges. Along toward noon,
on the day after leaving Boston, Che-
bucto Head Light and the Devil's
Island Light, which stand as sentinels
at the entrance of Halifax harbor, are
sighted. A half hour's run and the ship
has crossed the line between them and
is plowing her M'ay up the harbor. Mean
time the flag of the Plant Line has been
hoisted upon the citadel, for this is al
ways done as soon as one of these ships
IS sighted. In the distance mav be
caught a shadowy glimpse of the city,
while along the shores are little coves,
where hardy fishermen dwell, whose
crafts fly out to sea in the early morning
°-' uS 7,'?-P °^ *^^ ^^'^"d, and return at
nightfall like a great flock of tired birds.
Martello tower of historic fame, and now
a light-house on Macnab's Island (which
although the picnic grounds of the city is
heavily fortified) is pointed out, and a
moment afterward George's Island, a
quiet, harmless looking bit of land
fs'^toFn ti,'''. TJ^ ^¦^'^^°"- 2"' *e tourist
s told that this innocent bit of land is
honeycombed far below the water line
and Its hidden batteries of powerful

.prosperous city, substantially bui„, and cf

characteristics decid

edly foreign '

"The Post Office at Halifax is English in its architecture
and typical of all the business buildings of the city"
modern guns, and connecting submarine
torpedo mines would give the greatest
man-of-war as much to think about as the
man had who knocked down the hornet's
nest. These fortifications with the im
pregnable York Redoubt on the western
shore, the heavy masked batteries in Point
Pleasant Park on the tip of the penin
sula, and those off the harbor mouth, to
say nothing of a score or more of less im
portance, all modernly equipped and
thoroughly manned, would make the ap
proach to Halifax of a hostile war vessel
an exceedingly interesting occasion. If
the ship should show no disposition to
withdraw, half the water in the harbor,
and the ship with it, could be thrown into
the air by the explosion of the electrically

connected chain of torpedo mines quietly
slumbering in these piping times of
peace in their submarine berths.
Beyond George's Island the citadel-
crowned city and wharves with their
forest of masts come into full view. A
few moments more and the great ship is
warped into her slip, the gang plank
lo-v\rered, hurried good-byes are said to
newly-made friends, and the voyager is
at his hotel, scarcely more "than twenty-
four hours after leaving Boston.
Nova Scotia is a land girt round about
by the sea. No spot within its confines is
more than thirty miles from salt water.
Its summer climate is as soft as that of
southern Italy in May. Its sky rivals
that of the Riviera in the intensity of
color tones. Its air is vitalizing, exhil-
arative and recuperative.
It is a country in which nature has
been so lavish in her charms that art is
scarcely missed at all. A region where

'Carrying home with them at night an evidence
of the day's success."

"The people of Halifax are devoted to aquatic sports
in summer time."
each little hamlet, whether by sea or far
back in the rugged interior, has its indi
vidual charms of quaint novelty, and
where days or weeks may be idled away
in healthful rest.
One of the tenderest of poets has cast
over the region "the consecration and
purple light of his imaginings. ' ' Perhaps
the hills will not be quite so softened in
their lines; perhaps the mellow atmos
phere may be less seductive, but if we
lose the charms and fascinations of the
ideal, if the fair dreams of our imagina
tion are scattered in the awakening, we
find in the reality of the present a full
content, and need not fear the crucial
test of personal acquaintance.
One of the great all-pervading charms
of Nova Scotia is its health and whole-
someness. The people show it, and their
manners bespeak it. The children you
see are ruddy-faced and clumsy-limbed,
the young men and maidens pictures of
robust health. Malaria is a stranger,

The

whose grim visage would be
as unexpected as that of vel-
low fever in Maine. Hay
fever is unknown, and the
soft summer breezes wafted
from which waj- they may
be, bring the ozone and the
inspiration of the sea, and
temper the rays of the summer's sun.
A noticeable peculiarity of the Prov
inces which strikes the man from "the
States," is to be told that his train
leaves at 19:26, for all railroad trains arc
run on the twenty-four hour system.
From midnight until noon the clocks and
the time tables behave themselves in a
manner well known to us all, but from

'The Micmac Indians offer for sale at the city market
an attractive stock of baskets "
noon until midnight they continue on
from 12 to 24, instead of beginning with
one again. This obviates the use of a. m.
and p. m. , but is distressingly confusing

drive along the harbor side at Halifax leads to the Public
Gardens in which is the historic Martello -fower."
to the new comer until he becomes so
familiar with the system that he can
instantly recognize 23 o'clock as his old
friend 11 p. m.
The United States money is taken
everywhere in the Provinces, an Ameri
can quarter passing current for a shilling.
Almost every one has heard the bon
mot accredited to ex-Senator Evarts,
upon being told at Mt. Yernon that Wash
ington was such a powerful man that he
could throw a silver dollar almost across
the Potomac. "Oh, yes," responded
Evarts, "but you know a dollar would
go farther in those days than now." It
is a fact, however, that the dollar of the
tourist will go farther in Nova Scotia
and Prince Edward Island than anywhere
else on the American continent. Board
at hotels runs from 75 cents and a dollar
a day in the country to $3, the highest
charged anywhere, and this only at a
very few hotels in the Provinces. A dol
lar and a half a day for transients is the
average price at hotels, and board by the
week varies from $3 to Sio- At farm
houses good board can be had almost
anywhere at from fti. 50 to $5 per week.

Nova Scotia came within fifte-eri miles
of being an island, for it is connected
with New Brunswick by a narrow strip
of land between Northumberland Straits
and the Bay of Fundy, scarcely more
than a dozen miles wide
Geographers tell
it is 285 miles
long by from
50 to 100 miles
toroad, but in
this small area
is crowded a
wealth and va
riety of natural attractions, which few regions
of similar area on the conti
nent can match. It has
been so cut into by the
sea that its coast line
measures more than a
thousand miles, and
is broken by a myriad
of beautiful bays and
natural harbors.
Within the interior
there are more than
four hundred lakes,
the largest and most fa
mous being the Bras d' Or
in Cape Breton. It is the
Loch Lomond of North
America, a gem of nature,
so beautiful and so picturesque that it
challenges the admiration of even the
greatest travellers.
Those who have spent a vacation time
with our neighbors to the Northeast,
know them to be a most hospitable,
warm-hearted and wholesome people,
without affectation or greed. The nerv
ous activity, the ceaseless hurry and
bustle of the United States have no place
with them. Their characteristics are
more like those which mark the English
man at home. Genial, hospitable and
generous, they make the stranger wel
come within their gates. Ask a New
Yorker on his native streets to direct you
to a sought for place, and you will get a
quick incisive answer. Ask a man in

"The historical willows at Grand Pre, the home of Evangeline,
may be seen from the train."

Halifax,
and ten to one
he will go with
you, even if out of
his wav to make
plain his willingly' and
The ruins of the old French Fort at Annap- politely given direc-
oiis are well preserved." ^.j^jjg^ In Several dis
tricts and smaller towns throughout all
of Nova Scotia this spirit is still more
noticeable. The doors are always open
to the stranger, literally, as well as fig-
uartively, for locks have little if any place
in builders' hardware, and if put on a
door at all, are there more from custom
than for use.
Such a thing as a burglary would, it
is safe to say, be considered a most un
usual occurrence, for crime does not
seem to thrive well in this climate. A
writer, commenting on this subject, spoke
of having recently visited the jail in Hal
ifax, and states that there was just one
prisoner confined there. And this in a
city of 45,000 inhabitants.
Those who wish definite information
as to the length of their tour
may put down Halifax as being
378 miles from Boston, 340 miles
from Portland and 542 miles
from New York by sea. But
this is, as children say, cutting
the corner, for if one goes by
rail it is 618 miles from Portland,
720 from Boston and 939 from
New York.
One would as soon think of
going to England and not visit
ing London, as of going to Nova
Scotia and not making Halifax

" There still remain occasional relics of the wars between the
liritish and 1 rench
the central point of his tour. It is the
commercial, social and tourist center of
the Provinces. It is the port easiest
reached from the United States, and
the most convenient place from which
to start on your inland tour. The rail
roads of Nova Scotia majr touch and stop
at other places, but they all begin at
Halifax. Halifax may be justly termed the
British strong
hold of North
America. It is
not only the
headquarters of
a larger number
of British troops
than are quar
tered at any
other place in
North America,
but it is the prin
cipal naval sta
tion and rendez
vous of the
British North
Atlantic and
West Indies
squadrons. Halifax is Eng
lish in architec
ture, manners
and customs ; and the visitor will have no
opportunity to forget for any ten minutes
at a time that he is practically as faraway
from " the States " and their customs and
mannerisms as if he was in Southamp
ton or Liverpool. The presence of the
army and navy officers adds an interesting
feature to its social life. That it is dis
tinctly brilliant is not to be wondered at
when one realizes that it is the seat of the
Provincial parliament, has a university
and fine cathedral, a governor, lieu
tenant governor, a commander-in-chief
of the army, an admiral of the navy, an
archbishop and bishop as residents. It
is the London and Paris of the Maritime
Provinces; the commercial center, and
the dominating financial city of the Eng
lish-American colonies. The city stands
on a succession of hills, occupying a penin
sula four and one-half miles long, with a
breadth varying from a half to two or

more miles, and crowning its highest
hill is the gretit citadel, of which so
much has, and so much will in future,
be written. Plalifax is ten miles back
from the ocean proper, its harbor
and location being not unlike that
of New York. On one side it is
bounded bv the Northwest Arm and
a wide .stretch of isolated water, and
on the other by the harbor, which is
accessible at all seasons, and is suffi
ciently large to permit the entire English
navy tf> manoeuvre upon its waters
with ease.
The citadel occupies the broad sum
mit of a central hill, two hundred and
fifty feet above the harbor level. It acts as
a stern and watchful sentinel, keeping un
ceasing guard over its peaceful charge.
Great cannon poke their noses out
threateningly from under its casements,
and absolutelv control the approach to
the eitv from any direction. The Duke
of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, who
was in his time commander of the forces
at Halifax, built the original fortress,

' It IS a rair land about Grand Frt

" Twice every twenty-four hours the tide leaves
the ships high and dry."
utilizing the labor of the army of Maroons
who had been conquered by the British,
banished from Jamaica and subsequently
deported to Sierra Leone. It is sur
rounded by a deep moat and the huge
stone walls and embankments look as if
they would be absolutely impregnable to
any attack. Within these walls are the
bomb-proof barracks. The view is more
extended from the citadel than from any
other spot near Halifax.
You may overlook the en
tire city with its mag
nificent harbor teeming
with shipping. You
can plainly see Dart
mouth on the oppo
site side, the wide-
i spreading Bedford
Basin, or inner har-
' bor, flecked with the
graceful sails of
pleasure craft. Fort
Clarence, below
Dartmouth, with its
sombre casements, is in
full view, as are Mac-
nabs and Georges Islands,
the famous York Redoubt,
the outer harbor with its
fortified points and far over toward the
horizon the blue Atlantic.
Outside of the citadel and adjoining it
upon the city's streets are many barracks
for officers and married men,
the military hospital, which cost
over half a million dollars, and
the garrison chapel, where the
staff and troops attend service
in full uniform, accompanied by
the citadel band. To the west
of the fortress stretches the com
mon, a wide expanse of velvety
lawns covering many acres,
upon which the great regimental
parades and sham battles, always
such interesting spectacles to
visitors, take place.

" Where Indians camp.'

Halifax has been called the Gibraltar
oi North America, and while it bears no
resemblance from a topographical stand
point to that "gateway of the conti
nents " on the opposite side of the Atlan
tic, it would almost as stubbornly refuse
capture. But aside from its military
and naval features Halifax has many
points worthy the visitor's considera
tion. Several of her churches, of which
there are more than forty, are histori
cal, and will repay a visit. St. Paul's,
begun in 1750 and enlarged in 1S12, is
rich in mural tablets, and many of Nova
Scotia's famous men sleep the long .sleep
under the shelter of its protecting walls.
It is said the frame of this church was
brought from Massachusetts in 1740, and
it has had but five rectors in the century
and a half since then. The "Little
Dutch Church," built in 1755, and whose
original size and architecture have never
been altered, is still in good repair, and
the seeker after quaint epitaphs can find
many curious ones in the moss grown old
cemetery surrounding it.
The official buildings of the Province
are architectually striking, and bespeak
solidity. The Dominion Building, the
corner-stone of which was laid in 1811,
was up to 1830 the finest structure on the
North American continent. It is still the
admiration of architects and its great
halls are beautiful in decoration and im
posing in size. Within this building are
located the Customs and Post-Office de
partments, and Provincial Museum. The
new City Hall and the Government
House, occupied by the Governor, are im
posing and conspicuous official buildings.
Dalhousie College, a handsome and
pretentious modem structure, richly en
dowed and well equipped, is the most
prominent of the educational institutions
of Halifax. The visitor whose time will permit
should surely visit the great dry dock
and the naval yard. Both are instruc
tive, particularly the former which is

one of the largest in the world, being of
solid granite and concrete, 613 feet long,
102 feet wide at the top and 70 feet at
the bottom. It is rarely unoccupied, and
there is almost always some mightv ship
of war braced up within it receiving an
overhauling. Aside from her military and naval
features Halifax is most proud of her
public gardens, and the park at Point
Pleasant. And well she may be, for no
other city of her population on this side
of the Atlantic can boast of handsomer
attractions. The gardens, containing
fourteen acres, are admitted to be as
beautiful as any in America. They are a
gem in emerald, and one may wander
about their well-kept walks, lounge under
the graceful arbors, linger at the side of
the crystal fountains or mirror-like ponds,
feast his eyes on the graceful marble
statuarv, drink in

' The waters of the sea creep far inland through grassy meadows,
and add a pleasure and variety to the landscape."
the intoxicating fragrance of the flow
ers, and forget for the nonce that
there is anything but the beautiful
and poetic in this world of ours. Here
on Saturday afternoons during the sum
mer will be found a gathering of the rep
resentative people of Halifax, listening to
the sweet music of one of the military
bands. The park at Point Pleasant,
with its many miles of woodland, driv
ing roads and bridle paths, twisting and
twining with serpentine graces in and
out through forests of spruce and pine,
is one of the most charming spots on the
continent. It seems to the visitor as if
nature had conspired to crowd into this
" neck o' woods" a lavish assortment of
her brightest jewels; as if she had re
served it for a store house of her most
fascinating combinations of trees and
wild flowers, rocks and beach. In this
natural park you may lose yourself in the
heart of the primeval forest, or you may

sit on the edg
of the blufi:
at the
ocean

side and watch the
mighty Atlantic
roll into the broad
mouth of Che-
bucto Bav, the
s u r f p o u u d i n g
upon the beach
far below you, as
if impetuous at
being stopped
in its watery
race. You
may sit for
hours breathing
the delicious com
bination of the
perfumes of the
resinous pines
and that of the sea.

" Rocky fortresses of nature's
fashioning."
and gaze upon the
ceaseless coming and going of ocean craft,
( )ver back from the sea, in the heart of
the park, you may visit the legend-
enshrined Martello Tower, a memorial
of days when " rough-handed maraud
ers hung about the shores, and skulking
Indians peered out from the surround
ing greenery."
The visitor at Halifax can spend
several days delightfuUjr in driving or
bicycling about the suburbs. Among
the popular roads is that along the
shores of the ever-attractive Bedford
sparkling waters form
about five miles
inner harbor, as
hemmed in on
bold and pre-

Basin, whose
almost a circle
across. This
it is called, is
all sides by
tentious hills.
base and

Along their
crowding in

Sailing is a popular pastime at Halifax

many places closely between
the bluffs and the murmuring
waves of the Basin, and at
others following the outer lines
of some picturesque inlet, is one
of the finest roads in Nova Sco
tia. To bicyclists it affords
a glorious opportunity for a
spin along the very edge of the
water, across which come the
softest and most invigorating of
sea-tempered breezes. This
road leads to what id known as
"The Dingle," three miles from
town and near Dutch Village,
a spot of fairy loveliness. To
quote from Prof. C. D. G. Rob
erts: "Beyond 'The Dingle,'
on the Margaret's Bay Road, is the
famous 'Rocking Stone,' a mass of
granite, i6o tons in weight, so nicely
poised on a base of some twelve by six

' La Have river has frequently been referred to by writers as th
Rhine of North America."
inches, that it may be swayed by a child
using a stick as a lever. In this same
direction lie the Chain Lakes, whence
Halifax gets her water supply, and where,
in spite of prohibitory enactments, many
fine trout are caught. Another favorite
drive is to Bedford, along the Basin,
passing Rockingham and the site of the
' Prince's Lodge,' where Prince Edward
had his dwelling one hundred years ago.
The Lodge, with its memories of love,
and statecraft, and regal ceremony has
fallen before the siege of time ; but the
band rotunda stands, a quaint, semi-
classic structure, overhanging a railway
cutting. Then one should visit Dart
mouth, across the harbor from Halifax, so
picturesquely dropped among its dark
hills. Ferry-boats run every quarter hour

There are large lumber interests at Bridgewater on the picturesqu
La Have river."
between the places. The town has some
6,000 inhabitants, a sugar refinery, a ma
rine railway, a rope-walk, a skate factory,
and — by no means least imposing feature
— the great grim pile of Mount
Hope Lunatic Asylum.
Back of Dartmouth, to the
north, lies the beautiful chain of
the Dartmouth Lakes, a famous
resort of skaters, when the ice
has set firmly. From these lakes
runs the old Shubenacadie Canal,
connecting the waters of the At
lantic with those of Minas Basin
and Fundy, by way of the Shu
benacadie River. Four miles
north of Dartmouth are the Mon
tague gold mines, well worth a
visit. Along the coast south-east-
. ward, a distance of seven miles,
_ ¦ is Cow Bay, a summer resort
famous for its noble beach and
splendid surf. The whole country
around Halifax and Dartmouth is
= a network of lakes and streams,
including some of the best fishing
waters of the Province ; and there is ex
cellent cock, partridge, plover and duck
shooting within easy reach."
Halifax, while one of the most sedate
cities on the surface, is in re
ality one in which the spirit of
honest sport and wholesome
pleasure holds lull sway. It
has two fine social clubs, the
Halifax and the City,
whose memberships
are made up of rep
resentative citizens.
Its Royal Nova Sco- ,
tia Yacht Club oc
cupies a handsome
and modern build
ing of its own on
the harbor side at

the foot of HoUis
Street, In summer all
Halifax rides
and drives, sails
and rows. I n
winter it devotes
itself to those
sports which put
roses in the
cheeks of her
women and vigor
and health in her
men. One of the side
trips which
should be taken
from Halifax if time will permit, is th.it
by steamer along the coast to Lunen
burg and Bridgewater, the latter town
being at the head of navigation on tht
river La Have, the Rhine of Nova
Scotia. A pleasant way to enjoy the
scenery along this beautiful stream
is to go up in the steamer jj and to
drive down on the river's bank /' fro m
Bridgewater to r
the old French
settlement La
Have, where the
stream merges
with the Atlan
tic. If the visitor

Lunenburg is one of the most prosper
ous places in the province, being largely
interested in shipping and fishing enter
prises. Near it is located a curious
natural phenomenon known as the Ovens.
These are several large caverns worn out
by the tide, three of which are 70 feet
wide and over 200 feet deep. The sea
dashes into these dark recesses during a
heavy swell, making a tremendous roar
broken by deep booming reverberations.

' ' Camping is one of the delights
of >o\a Scotia life."

" The salmon is king of the finny tribe and is found
in man)' of the Nova Scotia streams."
is a fisherman the yarns he will hear in
Bridgewater of rod and reel will set his
brain in a whirl. ' ' Six twenty-five pound
salmon killed in a day on one rod."
' ' Five hundred brook trout taken on
two rods in two days," etc., give a fair
idea of what he may expect. They are
repeated here simply because to be fore
warned is to be forearmed, and not be
cause they are in any way extravagant.

These are en
shrouded in local
superstition and
legend, and many
a hair-raising tale
of ghosts and pi
rates are spun
around the old-
lashioned fire-places of
the locality.
There are three routes from Halifax
'vhich lead to interesting portions of
^Tova Scotia. One is via Windsor to
Kentville, Wolfville and "The Land of
Evangeline," another is by way of Truro
to New Glasgo-w and thence on to Cape
Breton, while a third is to Moncton and
Shediac, from which a steamer makes
daily trips across Northumberland Straits
to O Summerside, a thriving city

on Prince Edward Island, second
only to Charlottetown in importance.
Those who wish to visit the land
made famous by Longfellow in his
" Evangeline," can take a handsome
and rapid train called the "Flying
Bluenose," leaving Halifax every
morning. The route for the first few
miles out of Halifax is exceedingly
attractive, with its many views of
Bedford Basin, but after the last
glimpse has been had of this ever-
beautiful sheet, there is nothing to
interest the traveler until Windsor
is reached It is a dreary stretch
of rocks and stunted pines, with here
and there a pond hemmed in by un
inviting shores. Windsor makes a
claim of being the prettiest town
in Nova Scotia. It has 3, 500 inhabi
tants, a pretentious college, and was
the home of the genial and witty
Haliburton, author of "Sam Slick,
The Clockmaker," etc.
The town occupies a promontory
between the Avon and St. Croix
rivers. It is a considerable commer
cial center, and from here vast
quantities of plaster are shipped.
'The Avon River, which is in reality
an arm of the Bay of Minas (itself a
part of the greater Bay of Fundy),
cuts up strange pranks because of the
tremendous tides. Twice every
twenty-four hours the water all runs out
of the wide river, leaving ships high and
dry on the mud, and twice it flows back
again to such a depth that the largest
vessels can sail anywhere over its swift
running surface. This is the stream
which led Charles Dudley Warner to
exclaim: " I never knew how much water
added to a river until I saw the Avon."
Here, as at most of the ports on the Bay
of Fundy and its estuaries, the ships have

" There are many spots where one could pitch his tent amid
beautiful patches of woodland."
to watch their chance and slip up to their
moorings on the rush of the incoming
tide, for when it turns it goes out like a
whirlwind, and vessels are left dry to the
keel, cradled in the ooze, while far above
their decks is the dripping wharf. In
many places, as at Digby, where there is
a depth of Avater sufiicient to allow boats
to reach the dock at all hours, the wharfs
are built double, one far below the other
for use at low tide. It is a strange and
novel sight to those unaccus
tomed to it, to stand on the
deck of a steamer and see
the upper wharf above the top
of the smokestacks,- while peo
ple are coming aboard or
leaving the steamer over the
slimy, barncle encrusted lower
wharf, which was an hour or
so ago thirty feet under water.
Westward from Windsor
the country takes on a diff
erent character. Barren rocky
slopes have given away to
fertile fields. The hills have
drawn apart and the Gas-
pereau Valley spreads out
its verdure-covered meadows
and luxuriously-f o 1 i a g e d

' The hills have drawn apart and the Gaspereau Valley spreads out
its verdure-covered meadows."

orchards on every hand. Over to the
right sparkles the Bay of Minas, and
outlined on the horizon is grand old
Blomidon, that majestic bastion, keeping
faithful sentinel as in the days of Evan
geline, over the turbulent waters which
rise and fall with mighty force at its
rocky base, ¦
guarding

'There are places in No\a ^i ¦
England in their r

the [leaeeflll
valley from the
cold north
winds and sea
fogs which
hover on its
frowning sum
mit, as if afraid
to trespass fur
ther on the fair
lands below.
And here lies
Grand Pre, the
home of the
Acadians, the spot where was written
one of the saddest and most romantic
pages in the history of North America.
Early in the seventeenth century, there
came from France a goodly company of
immigrants, and settled here. Dikes,
with which the tides were kept from the
meadows were built, and great crops
gathered upon the reclaimed land.
Prosperity came and gentle peace
spread wide its protecting wings
over these faithful people. The
Indians loved them and were be
loved in turn. Little heed paid
they to aught about them save
their daily toil. For it was a. fair
prospect that stretched away from
their thatched cottages. Through the
winding ways of the marshes the hurrj'-
ing tides of Minas rushed back and forth,
while their cattle waxed fat, their
crops grew heavy, and the days came
and went in happy uneventfulness.
When France and Great Britain went
to war, the Acadians being intense Roman
Catholics, considered it a crusade, and
fought valiantly for the cause of their
native land. Then came the ceding of
Nova Scotia to the British, and soon
after the demand upon these simple-
hearted people that they should take the

oath of allegiance to the British crown.
They rebelled and showed hostility.
The English settlers, who hungered after
these fairest lands in all the province,
fretted because they were held by an
alien people. Yet the Acadians sowed
and reaped, unmindful of everything
save their loyalty to their God and their
native land.
" Thus dwelt together in love these simple
Acadian farmers.
Dwelt in the love of God and man. iVlilie were
they free from
Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy the
vice of republics.
So passed the mornin.c; a\vay. And lo, with a
summons sonorous,
Sounded the bell from its towers, and over the
meadows a drum beat." For the British
Council at Halifax had
decided that these
kindly people must
either take the oath
of allegiance to Great
Britain or be deported
from the country.
Almost unanimous
ly they refused to take
the oath, preferring ex
ile and confiscation to
such an act, and seem
ing to regard their
neutrality of the past
forty-five years as hav
ing become a vested right. Diplomacy
and argument were tried in vain, and it
was resolved that the whole Acadian peo
ple should be banished to the southern
American colonies, and that their estates
and buildings, cattle and vessels, should
be declared forfeit
ed to the crown.

winch r
1 beauty

' Quiet bays and inland tidal basins along the
shore line."

"Thronged ere long was the church with men.
"Without, in the churchyard,
Waited the women. They stood by the graves,
and hung on the headstones
Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens
fresh from the forest. , , . ,
Then came the guard frOm the ships, and
marching proudly among^them
Entered the sacred portal. With loud and dis
sonant clangor
Echoed the sound of their brazen drums from
ceiling and casement, —
Echoed a moment only, and slowly the pon
derous portal •. J 4.U
Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the
will of the soldiers. .
Then up rose their commander, and spake
from the steps of the altar.
Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the
royal commission.
'Ye are convened this day,' he said, 'by his
Majesty's orders.
Clement and kind has he been; but how have
you answered his kindness?
Let your own hearts reply ! To my natural
make and my temper
Painful the task is I do, which to you I know
must be grievious.
Yet must I bow and obey, and deliver the will
of our monarch ;
Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and
cattle of all kinds
Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you your
selves from this province
Be transported to other lands. God grant you
may dwell there
Ever as faithful subjects, a happy and peace
able people !
Prisoners now I declare you, for such is his
Majesty's pleasure. '
There disorder prevailed, and the tumult and
stir of embarking.
Busily plied the freighted boats ; and in the
confusion
Wives were torn from their husbands, and
mothers, too late, saw their children
Left on the land, extending their arms, with
wildest entreaties.
Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in
autumn the blood-red
Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and
o'er the horizon
Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon
mountain and meadow,
Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling
huge shadows together.
Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the
roofs of the village,
Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships
that lay in the roadstead.
Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes
of flame were
Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like
the quivering hands of a martyr.

" Where plunging ¦waterfalls sing their rippling
songs to the trees and rocks."
Then as the winds seized the gleeds and the
burning thatch, and uplifting,
Whirled them aloft through the air, at once
from a hundred house-tops
Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame
intermingled.
Many a weary year had passed since the burn
ing of Grand Pre,
When on the falling tide the freighted vessels
departed,
Bearing a nation, with all its household gods,
into exile.
Exile without an end, and without an example
in story.
Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadians
landed ;
Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when
the wind from the northeast
Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the
Banks of Newfoundland.
Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered
from city to city.
From the cold lakes of the North to sultry
Southern savannas,—
From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands
where the Father of Waters
Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them
down to the ocean,
Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones
of the mammoth.
Friends they sought and homes ; and many,
despairing, heart-broken.
Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer
a friend or a fireside.
Written their history stands on tablets of stone
m the churchyards." Longfellow's Evangeline.

* Following their peaceful avocations."

' A relic of the generations
gone?'

"All history pre
sents no parallel to
the spectacle of the
deportation of the
Acadians. Nations
have been put to
the sword, and peo
ples not engaged
ill war-fare have
been massacred.
In our own century
the ineffable Turk
descended upon a
peaceful commun
ity during the Gre
cian war, an d wiped
it from the face of the earth. The saine
power is now fiendishly at work, while
the civilized world looks on, to
blot out from existence the Ar
menians. But never was a nation
rooted out of the soil and ruth
lessly scattered to the four quar
ters of the earth in a brief space,
as were the French inhabitants of
Nova Scotia. It is strange that
so fruitful a theme for the poet
and novelist has been so little
made use of. Longfellow, alone,
has immortalized it in his epic, in
which, however, while the facts
may be idealized, they do not de
part in substance from the truth."
The railroad running from
Grand Pre -v\restward takes the
traveller through the Comwallis,
Gaspereau and Annapolis valleys,
in turns. Each is a beautiful re
gion, dotted with prosperous farms, great
orchards and here and there delightful
villages, in which the summer tourist
will find plain, wholesome inns and the
choice of many private homes, which
are thrown open to summer boarders.
Wolfville and Kentville are most desir
able points at which to spend a day or a

summer. The roads round about are ex
cellent, and as the price of horse hire in
this country, as everything else, is ex
ceedingly cheap, it is easily possible for
the tourist, making these places a center,
to visit all the region round about, includ
ing several pretty resorts on the Bay of
Fundy shore.
Kentville is a charming little leaf-em
bowered and elm-shaded village tucked
in between the hills. Prof. Richards
paints this pretty pen picture of this
quaint and quiet little town ;
" The valleys wind unexpectedly, and
the enclosing banks are abrupt. The
tidal stream of the Cornwallis, twisting
through its narrow strip of meadow, is
met here by a chattering amber brook

' In the heart of the primeval forest where the camps of the
hunters are established."
set thick with willows. The brook washes
the dooryards. There are unexpected
bridges, and green shade dapples the
streets. Every turn gives a new and
haunting picture, and one feels as if the
place had been planned in a dream. The
air is wholesome, especially kindly to the
weak lungs or throat. The streets, wind
less though shady, are warm in
1 summer ; but it is only a step to
climb the surrounding bluffs and
: come out into the breezes and
wide views of Cornwallis. The
view from Canaan Heights, sev
eral miles back of the town, is one
not to be forgotten. Kentville
has a charming social life, many
families of culture having settled
in the neighborhood. It has also
an extensive business as the cap
ital and trading centre of the rich
county of Kings. It is the seat
of the offices and machine-shops
of the Dominion Atlantic Rail
way. It has an excellent new
hotel close to the station, the

Aberdeen, large,
comfortable, and
modern in equip
ment; and small
er hotels, with
good accommo
dation, are
numerous. "The Corn
wallis Valley
Railway
is a short -
branch of " :
the Do
minionAtlantic, running from
Kentville thro'
Canning and
the heart of the apple coun
try', the greatest and most
famous of all those in North
America, to Kingsport, a dis
tance of fourteen miles. Can
ning (eleven miles from Kent
ville) is a typical farming ••The
town, surrounded by rich
meadows, its placid streets
buried in leafage. Its comfortable inn
is quaint and old-fashioned. Through
Canning flows a narrow tidal stream, the
Habitant, once a large river, but now
almost silted full. The heavy crops ot
clover and timothy now wave where of
old large ships came in upon the flood
to Canning's
wharves. "From
Canning it is
but a short
drive across
the Pereau
to the foot of
North Moun-
tain and
the famous
Look-Off.
^^^ This latter
' The Micmac Indians are at home
in canoes."

journey along the shores of the Bay of Minas and in and out
of the many bays. '
is a lofty spur of the main range. As the
carriage crawls slowly up its steep face
a series of enchanting pictures is unfolded
below. The panorama seen from the
summit is marvelous, not only for its
sublime breadth but for the variety of its
loveliness. The local enthusiast will tell
you that you are gazing into five counties
— Kings, Annapolis, Hants, Cumberland,
and Colchester — but this fact is a very
insignificant item in the impressiveness
of the scene. From your feet the moun
tain side falls away abruptly, a mass of
foliage palpitating with colored light.
Far down, as if you could drop a pebble
into it, lie the basking roofs of Pereau,
drenched with sun."
Kingsport, the terminus of the branch
from Kentville, is one of the leading ship
building centres on the north Atlantic,

and a prominent port for ocean
steamers in the apple and potati .
trade. It lies on the western
shore of the Basin of Minas, an
puts up quite pretentious
claims as a summer re
sort. It is one of the
spots in Nova Scotia which r «s
the tourist should not over- \
look, for it has an invigora-
ing climate and exhilarating ,
outlook, good bathing and \
several comfortable inns.
Then, too, it is the starting point of one
of the most delightful side trips in the
Province — that upon the twin screw
steamer " Evangeline," whose captain is
a uniformed yet genial encyclopaedia of
all the traditions of the fabled shores
around which his staunch craft
plies. The steamer hugs
close to the land line pass
ing under the frown
ing heights of Cape
Blomidon, whose up
per portion is one sheer
perpendicular wall of
rock, while the lower
half is a slope of dizzy
ing steepness. In the
storm eaten crevices of
the redsandstone, cling
the birches and other
trees which conceal, by
a ragged carpet of foli
age, the sterner fea
tures of Blomidon's
rocky face. After pass
ing Amethj'st Cove,
where, in the early
spring, many beautiful specimens of
this lilac crystal are brought down .
by the thawing of the ice in the rocky . -:
fissures. Spit Rock, old Blomidon's
rival, is seen standing in bold relief
against the sky, with the huge sliver torn
away from the parent rock by
some stupendous convulsion,
standing alone
and apai t from it
like a solitary
sentinel.
,rji«''rei»*tes-'g^{>, I The en-
ir-T"'! tiie trip
. t the
-3.

' _ - "The Post-OfliLe, Dominion lluildiiig
^ Governor's M.insion at Charlottetow
" Evangeline" across the Basin to Parrs
boro, on the Cumberland shore, is intense
ly interesting. The village of Parrsboro
is a brisk town and the centre of a fine
fishing and shooting region. The Cum
berland peninsula is famous for moose,
and the surrounding streams are literalh-
alive with trout and salmon, and have
been but little fished as yet.
From Parrsboro the traveler, if he
does not wish to retrace his steps, may
take the Cumberland Railroad to
Springfield Junction and return to
Halifax by the Intercolonial Raihv-ay
in about four hours, or he may go to
Point Shediac via Moncton, from which
place he can cross the Northumberland
Straits to Summer side. Prince Edward

" Both the residence and business portion of Charlottetown
 has a "prosperous look.".

Island. Still another route
suggested is by the Intercol
onial Railway to Truro, con
necting there for Cape Breton,
the island which forms the east
ern portion of Nova Scotia, and
is, from any point of considera
tion, one of the most interesting
and beautiful regions on the
American continent.
Sportsmen tell prodigious stones ot
the fishing and shooting in the Maritime
Provinces, and they are not overdrawn,
for no country offers greater attractions,
where in the still solitude of the forests
nature has provided a home and a hiding
place for game and fish.
Nova Scotia trout and salmon waters
are at their best in May and June. Fol
lowing the salmon come the sea trout
late in June and through July, then the
great lusty, silver and vermillion fish,
all full of game and all frequent
ing both salt and fresh waters.
There is usually good trout fish
ing in most waters in September,
and during the same month there
is the fall run of sea trout.
The slack month for fly fishing
is August. The brook trout is to be met
with in every lake, or even pond,
throughout the provinces. One
cannot walk far through the
depths of a forest without hear
ing the gurgling of a rill of water
amongst the stones beneath the
moss. Follow this hidden stream
a little ways and you will soon
come upon a sparkling brook
fringed by waving ferns and
varied by crystal pools in which
is mirrowed the overhanging
foliage. The trout is sure to be
here, and on your approach darts
under the shelter of the project'
ing roots of the mossy bank.
further, and a winding lane of still water,
skirted by graceful maples and birches,
leads to the open expanse of the lake,
where the gloom of the heavy woods is
xchanged for clear daylight. This is
le ''run in" as it is caUed, and here
ut will always be found,
the bait at all times of
A creel of two or three
n of these speckled beau-
is certain to be your re
ward for having found
way to these wild
but enchanting
spots. Frequently
five dozen hand-
.some trout.

weighing from
one to three pounds apiece
have been taken in a single
hour in some of the fa
vorite Nova Scotia
streams. The sea trout
closely resembles its
brother of the brook
in shape and color.
The size attained by this
'(^;.i, fish along the coast varies
from three to five pounds.
"The caribou." The f a vorite localities are the
harbors with which the coast is indented.
When hooked by the fly fisherman on their
first entrance to fresh water, they afford
sport second only to thatof salmon fishing.
No more beautiful fish ever reposed in an

Gathering about the boats upon the return to campto discuss the
sport of the day."

A little

angler's basket. They are of delicious
flavor, and are entitled to a high consid
eration and place among the game fish
of the provinces.
Excellent camping grounds may be
found upon or near by the streams and
lakes, and Indian guides who are adept
at camp keeping and canoeing, and who
are familiar with the locations of the best
pools, can readily be secured in all lo
calities. They generally live during the
summer at the mouths of the rivers, and
are alert at making bargains to accom
pany sporting parties.
As a rule all sportsmen's supplies may
be purchased to good advantage in
Halifax, but in any case it is best to
get flies in Nova Scotia, where the local

requirementsare well
known, the
Bluenoses
being born fisher
men. Guides usu
ally charge Si a day,
or S 1. 50 to $2 with boat, and can
be secured in any town, whi
dealers in tackle are always well
informed as to localities and
ready to impart information.
From Halifax fishing trips "The moose
may be taken either by the several coach
lines along the coast, or by private con
veyances, which are to be obtained -at
reasonable cost. There is good sport
along the western shore all the way to
Chester and Gold
River. Indian

"The trapper who in
his round

inter makes

River, twenty-
one miles from
Halifax and In
gram River
t w e n t y - fi V e
miles, are also
good points, as
is Grand Lake.
At St . Margaret's
Bay may be
found an old-
fashioned inn
and good guides.
Indian Lake,
about eight
miles from Hali
fax on the Pros
pect Road, Pet
ers Lake, Spruce
Hill Lake and
Nine Mile River
are good points for the spring and sum
mer sport.
It is impossible, in an article of this
length, to give a list of all the favorite
places for sport, but this information can
readily be secured in Halifax or any of
the larger or smaller towns. No refer
ence to fishing in the Provinces would,
however, be complete without a mention
of that most famous of all salmon waters,
the Margaree River in Cape Breton.
This is easily reached from Baddeck, and
runs through a country so beauti
ful, that should the sportsman ,
fail to get a single rise, he would
be abundantly repaid for the trip.
The laws regulating fishing fix
the open season for salmon from
March i to August 15, although
they may be fished for with a fly a
month earlier, that is from Feb
ruary I. No one is allowed to fish
for salmon between 6 p. m. Satur-

/^day and 6 a. m.
^ Monday, or for
any other fish in
waters frequent
ed by sal ni on.
The penalty for violation is $30.
Speckled trout may be fished
for from April i to October i,
and bass at any time with hook
and line. Non-residents upon
arrival in the provinces are re
quired to pay duty upon their rods
and tackle, but a receipt is given
by the customs officials, and the amount
returned when the fisherman leaves the
country. Shooting in Nova Scotia does not com
mence until September 15th, moose, car
ibou and deer being protected for the
nine months preceding that date. The
chief ambition of the .sportsman who visits
Nova Scotia is to kill a moose, the male
of which .specie s is frequently eight feet
high, weighs fifteen hundred pounds, has
horns measuring from five to six feet from
tip to tip and as much fight in him,
ivhen wounded, as a Rocky Mountain
grizzly bear. In September and October
moose are often surprised and killed while
wading m the cool waters of inland lakes,
where they feed on the roots and stems
of aquatic plants. Like the red deer,
the moose "jrard" in winter, the "yard"
consisting of a cedar or spruce .swamp,
round or through which they make beaten
tracks in their rambling. A yard will
sometimes be found by hunters contain
ing forty or fifty animals. After a fresh
fall of snov\', hunters on snow-shoes can
easily overtake the moose, whose great
weight causes him to sink in the snow,
but this is a kind of hunting looked down
upon by the true knight of the gun, and
not considered sportsmanlike. Indian and
half- breei'

'Watching for moose fmrn the camp

c. CUPTMH ¦

' Prince Edward Island is a quiet region, in which, if time is
money, every man is a millionaire."
frequently attract moose by imitating
their cry, the animals coming cautiously
toAvards the sound. A repeating rifle of
heavy calibre is a necessity in moose
hunting, for a wounded bull moose will
invariably turn on his assailant. No
hunter can do better than make his first
essay at moose shooting in Nova Scotia.
There are in this province three recog
nized sporting districts, of which the
best is probably the western, which takes
in all the country to the west of a line
drawn from Halifax to Yarmouth. Here
moose are reported plentiful and increas
ing in number. No one is allowed to kill
more than two moose or four caribou in
one season, the penalty for violating this
law being from $50 to $200, and is rigidly
enforced. Caribou, or American reindeer, are
abundant in Nova Scotia and in parts of
Prince Edward Island, They are not
as large as the moose, rarely weighing
more than 500 pounds, and are a less
dangerous foe when wounded. They are

I

light-colored,
almost white in certain sea
sons, and have broad horns
of the elk pattern, with a
peculiar formation which fol
lows the bridge of the nose
almost to its tip, perfectly
protecting it from the attacks
of its fellows. The common
red deer of the States are seldom,
ever, found in Nova Scotia.
Good bird shooting may be
obtained in almost every part of
Nova Scotia. Duck and snipe
abound, and English pheasants
that have lately been imported
are said to stand the winter well
and to be increasing rapidly. In
many sections capital sport maj-
be had with ruffed grouse, wood
cock, snipe, quail, plover, ducks I
and geese, are so plentiful that
good bags may alwaj-s be .,
counted on. , ,,
Sportsmen, not residents
of Nova Scotia, must take out
a license before they can en
joy the excellent sport thev
are sure to have.
These cost
each for the sea
son for all
large game,
and $10 for
birds and
hares. They
may be se
cured at thr
Provincial

" One of Charlottetown's churches. '

Secretary's office in Halifax, or from
any county clerk. As there is a penalty,
ranging from $50 to $100 for shooting
without government authorization and
inasmuch as the person fined is liable to
imprisonment if the fine is not paid, it is
suggested that no chances be taken.
Prince Edward Island lies in the
southern part of the Gulf of St. LaAvrence,
and the Avide Strait of Northumberland,
quite like the English Channel in disposi
tion, separates it from Nova Seotia on
the south, and New Brunswick on the
west. This Lsland enjoys the distinction
of being the most thoroughly cultivated
"» territory on this side of the Atlantic. It
. is one great garden from land's end to
"** land's end, and is not only beautiful in
points of topography, but its summer
climate is delightfully free alike from
penetrating fogs and excessive heat.
Those who have seen some of the more
.,^4^ fertile sections of the Illinois prairies,
with their undulating surface, scat
tering forests, wood- fringed streams,
and prosperous farms have seen an
American reproduction of Prince Ed
ward Island. The Island is notable as
a health spot, surrounded as it is by
ocean and strait, whose waters have
broken the shore line into numberless
bays and estuaries. Its breezes are
nothing but pure ones, bearing all of the
liealthful tonic and ozone of old ocean itself.
The Great North Bay on Prince Edward Is
land is skirted with fifty miles of wide sand
hills, and the clear waters of St. LaAA-rence
Gulf that flow along its front afford one of the
purest and most notable bathing grounds in the
world. Charlottetown, the capital of Prince
Edward Lsland, is a brisk, Avell built, well-
governed and prosperous city of about 15,000
inhabitants 
There are quite a number of seaside
resorts on the Lsland, the largest being
Summerside, which is as well quite a
ship building and business center;
Georgetown, Souris, Mt. Stuart, Tignish
(up at the extreme northern end of the
island), Alberton, Kensington, Rustico
and others. Malpeque, seven miles
from Kensington, on the north shore,

"Prince Edward Island is an ideal place to enjoy the combined
delights of sea and country combined."

has been made famous
by the delicious deep-
sea oysters, Avhich bear
its name, and are to all
this region and Canada
what the Blue Points and
Cherry Stones are to
Americans. Cape Traverse,

commoners and four
senatois to the domin
ion legislature at Otta
wa It's history is
in interesting one,
and upon it's pages
are written

on Northumber
land Strait, has
many things to
commend it to
the summer visi
tor, as have Bar
clay Point, about
ten miles from
Chariot tetow n,
and T r a c a d i e
Beach, about
four miles from Bedford
Station, on the
north side of the
island. The shooting
on Prince Edward Ls
land during the season
is exceedingly good, and
wild geese, brant, .duck, part
ridge, woodcock and
snipe are to be found " Truro, which is a progressive city,
in abundance, while attractive public park."

such streams as the Monce, the Dunk,
the Pierrejaques, the Miminigash, the
Kildare, Tignish and others, teem with
trout and salmon. From anyone of the
little seaside tOAvns on Prince Edward
Island, one may have within a half -hour
or hour's sail an abundance of mackerel
and deep-sea fishing.
The island constitutes the smallest of
the provinces, but maintains equal dig
nity with the greatest, having its OAvn
provincial government, comprising a gov
ernor and parliament, and sending six

the same general out
lines \A hich are found
on that of all this re
gion, a strife bet\A'een
the French and
English for terri
torial acquisition.
Acquired by the
French late in the seven
teenth or early in
the eighteenth
.¦¦" century, it soon
atlraeted a respect
able number of settlers
from Bretagne and Nor-
ndy, whose produce and
grains were in great demand
for the fortified city of
has a very Louisbourg in Cape
Breton (then L'Isle

Royale, or the Royal Island). In
1745 many of these settlers were expatri
ated after the fall of Louisbourg, but
after the return of this citadel to France
the island was again peopled, and when
in 1755 Louisbourg was recaptured by
General Wolfe, it would seem that only
a few of these poor farmers were removed
from their homes. Some, however, were
thus deported, especially those about
Charlottetown (then Port La Joie), and
the adjoining coast. Some ten thousand
of the descendants of those who remained,

and of the Acadians who escaped
the deportation at Minas, Blomidon
and other parts of Nova Scotia, yet
reside in the province. They are
still to a great extent a people set
apart from the rest of the popula
tion, living in their own villages,
intermarrying early with their own
race, speaking the French tongue
and keeping up in dress, traditions,
customs, etc. , the simple, hospitable,
kindly traits depicted in "Evan
geline. " Thus, to a great extent, in
certain villages, the women and
maidens wear " the Norman cap and the
kirtle of homespun;" the young girl
begins at an early age to .spin, weave and
sew the coarse white linen and heavy
deep-tinted woolens which she shall bring
with her to the man of her choice ; and
the settlement still delights
in assembling to start a
young couple in their mar-

" The coast line nf the Pras d'Or Lakes is broken
and indented with many bays."

f

"The timber railway at Truro is the only one of
its kind in the Country."
ried life, to raise a barn or house, and to
take their pay in an hour or two of danc
ing to a .simple fiddle, and a supper of
bread, tea, potatoes and meat, or fish.
Peaceful, economical, industrious, in
a Avay belonging to a past age, these
Acadians are a peculiar people, full of
interest to every traveler fresh from the
feverish press of business, or the artificial
but onerous demands
of modern society
A remnant of the
' mce powerful Micmac
tribe of Indians, some
three hundi-ed in num
ber, still haunt the
northern harbors, and
retain the garb and
habits of their warlike
:'^i^ ancestors. They are
keen hunters, and
faithful servitors for
moderate pay, and a
few days Avith one of
them, among the trout, duck
and plover, is generally a time
to be long and pleasantly
remembered. Charlottetown, the capital
and chief commercial city of
Prince EdAvard Island, is a
prosperous little city of 15,-
000, and in summer is at
tractive to visitors, although
its pleasures and sights are
soon exhausted. The gener
al character of its business
buildings is excellent, and
its streets are Avide and aa'cII
shaded by day and electric
lighted by night. In the
business center of the city is
Oucen Square and the sub-
~ stantial government
structures, includ
ing the provincial
building and the post
office. In the form
er are the legislature
halls and the

*:f^

'Fertile farms stretch down to pebbly beaches, which are f
with strips of woodland."
Colonial library. Near by are the Con
vent of Notre Dame, the Prince of Wales
College and the normal school. The resi
dence of the governor occupies an
attractive point of land west of the city
and commands a fine view of the harbor.
In the suburbs of the city are two col
leges, the Wesleyan and
St. Dunstan's, both well
supported and prosperous
institutions. From Char
lottetown the various parts
of the island are reached
by the lines of local steam
ers and the Prince Edward
Island Railway which runs
from one end of the island
to the other, a distance of
130 miles.
This city is the termi
nus of the Boston and
Prince Edward Island ser
vice of the Plant Line, and
the popular and staunch
"Halifax" of this line
makes the round trip be
tween Boston and Char
lottetown each week. The steamship
touches at Halifax and proceeds thence to
Hawkesbury on the Straits of Canso,
through which it passes into Northumber
land Straits, upon which Charlottetown is

located. This 1500-mile sea
trip is the longest, cheapest and
most delightful of any which
can be made in one week
from an American port with
out going to Europe, The
accommodations are of the
finest ; and the extended views
afforded of the south shore of
Nova Scotia, together with
glimpses of picturesque Cape
Breton, and the opportunity of
visiting Prince Edward Island,
combine to make it a popu
lar outing. For those who
have only a week to spare for
vacation pleasures no trip can be com
pared to this for variety, health-giving
features or economy. The round trip fare
from Boston is but $16, with an addi
tional charge of $2 for stateroom berths
each way, and for meals, fifty cents being
the price for breakfast and supper, and

During the busy season hundreds of men and boys are engaged in
curing cod, haddock and hallibut."
seventy-five cents for dinner. Thus $40
is an amount sufficient to cover the entire
week's outing, including carriage rides in
Halifax and Charlottetown, and a few
appropriate souvenirs of the outing.

" It is not an unusual sight to see dried cod fish stacked up like hay upon the stony beach, awaiting shipment to Eng
land or the States."

The Plant Line fleet upon which these
tours are made consists of the steamships
"La Grande Duches.se," "Halifax" and
"Olivette." The former was launched
trom the Newport News Ship Building
and Dry Dock Co.'s works, January 30^
1896. She is the queen of the
North At- , , lantic and is
beautiful \ \ in form and fur
nishings ; is eon-

' Port Mulgrave is across tlie narrow Stiaitsof Canso from 1
bury, on Cape Breton, at which the steamers touch."
structed entirely of steel, and is of
such enormous size that only the most
recently built transatlantic leviathans
exceed her proportions. She measures
405 feet from stem to stern, has a beam
of 47 feet 9 inches, and tonnage in pro
portion. Her 7000 horse power, quad

ruple expansion engines drive two man
ganese bronze screws of huge diameter
No crack ocean liner is more lu.xurious
in interior appointments The wood-
Avork of mahogany and quartered oak is
beautified wherever good taste suggests
It by rich and elaborate carvings.
A stairway, handsome enough for a
royal palace, and a veritable masterpiece
ot the wood worker's art, with elaborate
newels carved from spec
ial designs in Paris, leads
from the social hall on
the upper deck to the
^rand dining saloon.
-This is a .spacious, well-
lighted room of ample
capacity and charming
mural decorations in
white and gold. To
the traveller accustom-
_^ ed to the usual half-
',*•¦ ' lighted and sombre-
toned steamship din
ing saloon, that on " La
Grande Duchesse " is a pleasing
revelation. Its furnishings are
in exceedingly good taste, and
the table service of silver, china
and glass Avare of the finest.
On the same deck are the
officers' dining rooms,
telephone exchange,
through Avhich all de
partments of the ship
are in speaking com
munication Avith each
other, and a large num
ber of staterooms.
Above the dining room
is the large social hall,
and on the same deck
the smoking room for
; ' gentlemen, and the ob
servatory for the ladies.
This latter is a novelty on
ocean steamships, and illustrates
the desire of the Plant Line to
furnish everything possible for
the comfort of its patrons. It is
a spacious room, built of steel and
surrounded with Avindows. It is
tastefully furnished, and being
on the upper deck affords the
ladies, in inclement Aveather, an
opportunity to enjoy an unob
structed view, while perfectly pro
tected from Avind
and rain, , ¦
All the social
halls and main
deck are finished
in mahogany as
Avell as the ladies'

"St, Peters Canal connects the southern end of the Bras
d'Or lakes with the Atlantic."
observatory. The second-class social
hall and reception room are finished in
quartered oak. Every modern contri
vance for comfort and convenience is
found upon this superb ship. She is
electric lighted
from mast top to
stokers' hole.
Electric bells
and telephones
connect the state
rooms and all
parts of the ship.
She has fine bath
rooms and bar
ber shop and all
the ap purt e-
nances of a pala
tial hotel. "La
Grande Duch
esse" has twin
screws of manga
nese bronze, and
engines of 7000 horse power of the quad
ruple expansion pattern. She has accom
modations for 700 passengers, and is in
every particular and detail as handsome
and perfect an example of modern ship
construction as it would be possible to
find upon any sea. She will run reg
ularly between Boston and Halifax,
alternating with the "Olivette," while

the "Halifax" will run as usual
between Boston and Charlotte
town, touching at Halifax each
way. The latter ship was built
on the Clyde, and is 260 feet in
length, having a breadth of 35
feet, a tonnage of 1750, and triple
expansion engines of 3000 horse
power. She is electric lighted
throughout, has bath rooms, elec
trical call-bells, a grand saloon,
handsome smoking rooms, and a
broad promenade deck, the state
rooms being particularly comfort
able and roomy. The ' ' Olivette "
was constructed at the famous
ship building yards of the Cramp's,
at Philadelphia, and is fourteen
feet longer than the "Haliax,"
but otherwise of about the same propor
tions. ,
Their passenger accommodations are
superb, the arrangemen ts and furnishings
of the staterooms exceptionally comfort-

le towns are large, but all look bright and inviting with
their white houses and green background."
able ; many of them being en suite. The
sides and ceilings of the dining saloon,
social hall, etc. , are finished in lincrusta,
and the woodwork is of heavy walnut,
highly polished. As the "Olivette"
was built specially for passenger service
her deck accommodation for promena
ding and lounging is convenient and
roomy. , The visitor to the Provinces
should not fail to spend a portion
of his time on Cape Breton. It
may be reached either via Hali
fax, taking the Intercolonial Rail
way through Truro and New
Glasgow to Port Mulgrave on the
straits of Canso, or by steamer
of the Plant Line around the
southern shore of Nova Scotia
from Halifax to Hawkesbury,
directly across the straits of
Canso from Port Mulgrave.

"Upon almost every inlet of the sea is located a little village.'

" The steamer on its journey through the Bras d'Or lakes touches at various intcre
where contentment and happiness are everywhere evident."

iling little settlements

From here the chief places of interest
in the interior may be reached either
by rail or by boat. The latter is from
every point of consideration the most
interesting, the route being from Mul
grave around a point of Cape Breton,
and through a beautiful archipelago of
islands to St. Peter's Canal Avhich con
nects the Bras d'Or lakes at their western
and southern end
Avith the Atlantic.
This four
hours' trip

flock of sheep on the hill side," and then
passes through the locks and canal, into
the Bras d'Or, Avhere the traveler is trans
ferred to the larger boat which takes
him through the lakes to Sydney and
North Sydney, touching at Baddeck,
Whycocomagh and other points en route.
Mr. Warner, AA'hose delightful and in
teresting little book, "Baddeck and that
Sort of Thing," has
been for )'ears a
classic in
the litera-

The trip from Port Mu
through a beautiful

is made
upon a
most comfortable
little steamer, and
is full of attractive
features from the start to the finish.
The panorama of island and sea is ever
changing, and the journey may be com
pared to that on the St. LaAvrence
through the Thousand Islands. The
steamer touches at several little villages
Avhose white painted, scattering cottages
look from a distance, as Charles Dudley
Warner has so happily said: " Like a

,^rave to St. Peter's canal is
archipelago of islands "

u r e of
travel,
says of the Bras
d'Or lakes: "They
are the most beau
tiful salt water lakes I have ever seen,
and more beautiful than I had imagined
a body of salt water could be. If the
reader Avill take the map, he will see that
two narrow estuaries, the Great and
Little Bras d'Or, enter the Island of
Cape Breton, on the ragged northeast
coast, above the toAvn of Sydne)', and
flow in, at length widening out and
. occupying the heart of the
sland. The Avater seeks
out all the low places, and
ramifies the interior, run
ning away into lovely
bays and lagoons, leaving
slender tongues of land
and picturesque islands,
and bringing into the
recesses of the land, to
the remote country farms
and settlements, the flaA-or
of salt, and the fish and
mollusks of the briny sea.
There is very little tide at

The villages with their white painted cottages looking from a distance like a
flock of sheep on a hillside.

any time, so that the shores are clean
and sightly, for the most part like those
of fresh water lakes. It has all the
pleasantness of a fresh Avater lake with
all the advantagesof a salt one. In the
streams which run into it are the
speckled trout, the shad and the salmon ;
out of its depths are hooked the cod
and the mackerel, and in its bays fatten
the oyster. These irregular lakes are
about a hundred miles long, if you
measure them skillfully, and in some
places ten miles broad ; but so indented
are they that I am not sure but one
would need, as I was informed,
ride a thousand
miles to go round
them, following
all its incursions
into the land,"
Supplementing
this description,
no less an author
ity than Sir W.
C Van Home,
the President of
the Canadian Pac
ific Railroad, and
a great traveler,
has said of the
lake region of
Cape Breton :
"There is nothing
on the American
Atlantic seaboard resembling the inlets
which expand into seas in the interior of
Cape Breton, and ther^ are no waters
that I know nearer than the fjords of
Norway, or those of the British Columbia
coast and Alaska, to be compared with
them in beauty and interest."
Prof. Sumichrast, of Harvard College,
sums up the whole ma,tter in a paragraph
that is well worth quoting:
' ' I have been down through the Island
shooting; fished at Lake Ainslie and on
the Margaree
'River; visited
ancient Louis-
burg and all the in
teresting portions of
Lsle Madame, and I
|/ must say Cape Breton
is one of the most beau-
. tiful places I have ever
visited. Art as yet has
done little or nothing for
Cape Breton, but nature
has been profusely lavish
in her gifts. Sylvan re
treats; romantic glens,
'wild mountain gorges,
agnificent lakes; deep,
sv/iftly-gliding rivers ;

Pushing their canoe into quiet
reed-grown bays.
I have ever seen

gently undulating plains;
good, level intervales,
studded with stately
American elms; gorgeous
bays; rushing brooks ;
delicious springs ; healthy
atmosphere, and an intelli- i
gent, fun-loving Scotch race
of people, hospitable and
humane to a fault, and pros
perous and contented Avith
their surroundings and in
their circumstances —
this is Cape Breton.
Fish "and game are
plentiful in their sea- '
son, and I know no " Every now and then lazy herons"
place where a man are startled into flight.
can spend a couple of months with his
rod, his dogs and his gun, more enjoya-
bly than on this fascinating island."
The journey up through the lakes
from St. Peter's Canal occupies a full
day, for there are many landings to be
touched at and many miles of tortuous
course to be followed in reaching them.
At each place there is an interchange of
passengers and many quaint sights to be
seen. At one place it will be a crowd
of Micmac Indians just down from the

"You may still find primitive ferry boats
making daily trips."
mountains, with shoulder hampers loaded
with plump, luscious blueberries, which
grow so abundantly hereabouts. At an
other, it will be a mixture of Gaelic back-
countrymen, accompanied on their annual
tour to Sydney by their women and
children. And thus it goe's. The trip is
one of ever-changing interest, for when
the ever-present panorama of lovely
scenery is not engaging attention, it is
some unusual quaint picture of human
interest. The most important places on the
Bras d'Or lakes are Whycocomagh

" The old church at Baddeck where services arc still
conducted in the Gaellic tongue."
(pronounced by the natives "Hogamah "),
Grand NaiTOAvs and Baddeck. The lat
ter has attained quite a degree of fame
through Mr. Warner's Avidely-read book,
but latterly because quite an aristocratic
colony of summer residents have erected
beautiful homes here
Prof. Ale.xander Graham Bell, the
inventor of the telephone, OAvns a whole
mountain of looo acres, upon which he
has expended $200,000 on roads. Upon
its southern slope up to
ward the summit and
overlooking a wide pan
orama or lake and moun
tain, he has erected a
$35,000 residence, and
near it a fully equipped
laboratory where he con
ducts his experiments in
electricity. This beauti
ful estate bears very ap
propriately the Scotch
name of Beinn Bhreagh.
George Kennan, the Rus
sian travellerandlecturer,
also has a fine residence
a.t Baddeck and he and
his charming wife have
explored every bay and
inlet of the lakes and all
the inland secluded fast
nesses, living for Aveeks
at a time on their yacht, or in camp.
Mr. Kennan is an outspoken enthusiast
on Cape Breton, and expressed to the
Avriter his belief that there Avas no more
beautiful, picturesque, or fascinating
region an5rwhere.
Baddeck is a quaint, sleepy, half open
eyed \' i 1-
lage. Mr.
Y/arner,

quote him again, says "having
attributed the quiet of Baddeck
on Sunday to religion, we did
not know' to what to lay the
quiet on Monday, but its peace-
fulness continued. I have no
doubt that the farmers began
to farm, and the traders to
trade, and the sailors to sail,
but the tourist feels that he has
come to a haven of rest." This
was written twenty odd vears
ago, but it's the .same Baddeck
to-day. You v-ill find the same
delightful air of quiet and repose
everywhere manifest, and you
can, now as then, look out over the same
beautiful expanse of glistening water
Avith its setting of purple hills. You
may breathe that deliciously cool air
—compounded of sea and hemlock, and
spend days or weeks in this climatic and
healthgiving paradise, Avhere the very
living is a joy.
The country around about Baddeck is
a most picturesquely wild and beautiful
region. No one Avho can afford the time

* Look u here you may on the Bras d'Or, the view is
one of entrancing beauty."
should fail to spend several days, or
better, A\-eeks in exploring it. For fisher
men and hunters it is a paradise. The
Margaree river, reached easily from Bad-
deck, is the famous salmon stream of
Nova Scotia, and every one of the scores
of crystal brooks are alive with trout
" St. Anne's Bay, most beautiful of all
on the island, is but ten miles north
easterly; and beyond the wild northern
.shore stretches away to Ingonish and
Cape Smoky, the tip end of the conti
nent, bound by a line of stupendous cliffs
and mountains, back of them the vast
tablelands cf Victoria County, covered

The Residence of Alex. Graham Bell, near Baddecl:.

" Baddeck straggles along the curving shores of a tranquil bay whose waters are
seldom disturbed by ships cf commerce."

Avith primeval forests, over Avhich roam
undisturbed herds of caribou. A drive
along this coast, or, better, a journey
afoot, depending on the warm and
homely hospitality of the Gaelic settlers,
reveals a mode of living that for absolute
primitiveness is nowhere equalled on our
continent. Here are seen grinding of
corn by hand stones, timber hewn in a
similar crude i^ manner, or

"The jail it Lidle k, w Inch was turn down
because of lack of use '
sawn by mills, home made; while from
every door comes the sound of spinning-
wheel or click of shuttle in the family
loom. Not less interesting are the Mic
mac Indians, Avho pitch their wigwams
on the hillside at Baddeck, their perma
nent settlements being at Indian Cove
and at Escasoni near. Grand Narrows."
The Bras d'Or Lakes connect with the
ocean at their eastern end through two
long arms or channels, and near the con
fluence of ocean and sea are located the
towns of Sydney and North Sydney.
The former is by far the more important
and is the largest town on the island. It
has enormous coal and shipping interests.

and Avhile it has many quaint features,
is, as a whole, such a town as one can
find many times duplicated in the coal
regions of Pennsylvania, Avith the added
features of one of the finest harbors on
the Atlantic seaboard, in which, so the
statistics of the place show, more than
fifteen hundred steamships and sailing
vessels entered and cleared last year.
Sydney is the terminus of several of the
European cables, as it is nearer Europe
than any other place on this continent,
and a visit to the offices of the company
is worth the making. It is the centre of
the enormous coal interests of Cape Bre
ton, and all about it are the mines from
Avhich hundreds of
thousands of

"The quiet, peaceful streets of Baddeck.'

"The valley of the Margaree river in Cape Breton is a paradise, the stream itself offering the finest
salmon fishing in America "

tons are taken annually, a large propor
tion of the coal used in both NeAv York
and Boston for making gas being mined
near Sydney.
About thirty miles from Sydne}-,
reached by a narroAv guage raihA-ay, is
Louisburg, once counted among the
strongest fortified places of the Avorld.
To-day its ramparts are grass-groAvn
ruins, with hardly one stone standing
upon another.
" Once it AA'as a city Avith walls of
stone which made a circuit of two and a
half miles, were thirty-six feet high, and
of the thickness of forty feet at the base.
For twenty-five years the French had
labored upon it, and had expended up
wards of thirty millions of livres or
nearly six million dollars in com
pleting its defences. It A\-as called
the 'Dunkirk of America.' Gar
risoned by the veterans of France,
and Avith poAA'-erful batteries com
manding every point, it bristled with
most potent pride of AA'ar. To-day
it is difficult to trace its site among
the turf which marks the ruins.
Desolation now sits Avith a ghastly
smile around the once formidable
bastions. All is silent except the
loud reverberation of the ocean whose
surf surges along the rock)' beach. Sel
dom has demolition been rnore complete.
It seemed built for all time; it has van
ished from the face of the earth.
Its capture by the undisciplined New
Englandfarmers, commanded by William
Pepperal, a merchant ignorant of the art

of Avar, is one of the most extra
ordinary events in the annals of
history. The zealous crusaders
set forth upon a task, of the diffi
culties of Avhich they had no con
ception, and theygained a triumph
which should make their names
as immortal as those of the 'noble
six hundred.' It AA'as a feat
Avithout a parallel — a marvel
among the most marvellous
deeds Avhich man has dared to
do. Restored to France by the
peace of Aix la Cha-
pelle, v^ Louisburg

of the Micmac Indians, where birch bark

'The camps c. .--
canoes are made by the squaws

was once
again the
stronghold of
France on
the Atlan
tic coast, anil
French veterans
held Cape Breton,
the key to the
Gulf of St. Law
rence. The brief
truce was soon
broken, and then
came the armies of England, aijd Gen
eral Wolfe sought and Avon his first laurels
in the new world. Louisburg fell once
more and the knell of its glory was rung.
The conquest of Canada achieved, the
edict Avent forth that Louisburg should
be destroyed. The work of demolition
was begun. The solid buildings, formed
of stone brought from France, were torn
to pieces; the walls Avere pulled doAA-n,
and the bat
teries ren
dered u s e -
less for all
time. It

Sydney is tlie tip-end town on the North American
Continent."

_ ''^;, complete the de-
"on,
andthen
the once proud
fortress Avas a
"a shapeless ruin.
'¦¦' Years passed
by ; the stones
were carried
away by the
dwellers along
the coast and
put to peaceful uses; and the hand
of time Avas left to finish the work of
obliteration. Time has been more merci
ful than man ; it has covered the gloomy
ruin Avith a mantel of green and has
healed the gaping wounds Avhich once
rendered ghastly the land that nature
made so fair. The surges of the Atlantic
sound mournfully upon the shore —
the requiem of Louisburg, the city made
desolate," The modern Louisburg, a place cf
i,ooo inhabitants, takes on quite a little
commercial importance. It's fine, deep
Avater harbor opens directly out on the
Atlantic, and many boats engaged in
fishing on the banks off Newfoundland
fflie^^ call it their home port. One of the

"The building in which one of the transatlantic cables
ends at North Sydney."

if Cape I'leton \vhicli withstand th
of Uie North Atlantic."

sights of the place is the handsome
monument dedicated last vear to com
memorate its capture by Capt. Pepperell
and his New England yeomen. A pro
ject which has been talked of, off and on
for years, is to make Louisburg a port of
call for transatlantic steamships, so that
passengers could save time, and a thou
sand miles of ocean voyaging by taking,
or leaving the steamers here. Any one
having faith in the materialization of this
scheme, can at present secure corner lots
in Louisburg at figures Avhich Avill allow
of considerable rise.
Bicyclists Avill find in Nova Scotia,
and in many parts of Cape Breton, as
well as throughout Prince EdAA^ard Island,
a most delightful region for cross-country
runs. The roads as a general thing are
free from sand, and well kept up, and ¦
as the people are nota
ble for their hospitality
and free-he arte d-
ness. the wheelman

of quaint little farm
houses which are
found along the rural
thorough-fares. The Plant Line
transports bicycles
free, when accompa
nied by the owner,
provided he or she
has not an. unreason
able amount of other
baggage. The Cana
dian government has
amended its former
regulations and
noAV charges no duty on wheels;
onlv requiring the owner to sign a
paper .stating that the bicycle is for
his or her personal use and not in
tended for sale.
In the preceding pages the Avriter
has undertaken, in a modest way, to
touch upon the most interesting feat
ures of Avhat is destined to be, as
soon as its charms are more generally
knoAvn among the travelling public,
a great and popular vacation region.
To the average mind. Nova Scotia
and its sister provinces are located in
the indefinite someAA'here, and yet, in
point of fact, thcA' are almost at our
very doors, and their people bid a
lieartA' Avelcome to all Avho come to

their fair land

as well as
the wheel-
woman, is
sure of a
graceful Avelcome at
any of the
thousan ds

Through the enter
prise of the Plant
Steamship Line, one
may av a 1 k the
streets of Boston to
day, and to-morrow
be in Halifax among
novel scenes,'and in
a country as foreign
in all its manner
isms and customs as
: if it were across the
wide Atlantic, in
stead of just beyond
the threshold of the
United States. A
summer's tour to Acadia
:11 longbe ahappymem-
-..™. ory to all Avho make
"-^ it, and if the journey
thence be upon one
of the steamships of
the Plant Line,
which are furnished
and finished Avith
everything to make
a sea trip upon them
enjoyable, it Avill
have an added
pleasure.

"Louisburg, now a sleepy fishing town was oi
strongly fortified spot in North Amen

was once the most

SUMMER TOURS IN ACADIA,
By the Plant Line to Halifax and Charlottetown.

No. I.— Halifax.— Boston to Halifax by the Canada
Atlantic and Plant Steamship Line. Return by the
same route.
No. 2.— Hawkesbury and Charlottetown.— Boston
to Hawkesbury or Charlottetown by the Canada
Atlantic and Plant Steamship Line. Return by
the same route.
No. 3.— Halifax and St. John— Canada Atlantic
and Plant Steamship Line to Halifax ; Intercolonial
Railway to St. John, N. B. ; Canadian Pacific Rail
way to Vanceboro ; Maine Central R. R. to Port
land ; Boston & Maine R. R. to Boston.
No. 4.— Canada Atlantic and Plant Steamship
Line to Halifax ; Intercolonial Railway to St. John,
N. B. ; International S. S. Co. to Boston.
No. 5.— Through the Land of Evangeline.— Can
ada Atlantic and Plant Steamship Line to Halifax ;
Dom. Atlantic Railway to Digby ; Returning to
Boston via Halifax over same route.
No. 6.— The Three Provinces.— Canada Atlantic
and Plant Steamship Line to Charlottetown ; P.
E. I. Railway to Summerside ; Charlottetown Navi
gation Co. to Point du Chene ; Intercolonial Rail
way to Halifax, Canada Atlantic and Plant Line to
Boston. No. 7.— The Bras d'Or Lakes.— Canada Atlantic
and Plant Steamship Line to Halifax ; Intercolon
ial Railway to Sydney ; Bras d'Or Navigation
Company to Mulgrave ; Intercolonial Riy to Hali
fax ; Canada Atlantic and Plant Line to Boston.
No. 8. — Canada Atlantic and Plant Steamship
Line to Hawkesbury ; transfer ; Intercolonial Rail-
w^ay to Sydney ; Bras d'Or Navigation Company
to Hawkesbury ; Canada Atlantic and Plant Steam
ship line to Boston.
No. 9. — Canada Atlantic and Plant Steamship
Line to Hawkesbury ; Bras d'Or Navigation Com
pany to Sydney ; Intercolonial Railway to Halifax ;
Canada Atlantic and Plant Line to Boston.

No. 10.— Canada Atlantic and Plant Steamship
Line to Halifax ; Intercolonial Railway to Mul
grave ; Bras d'Or Navigation Company to Sydney ;
Intercolonial Railway to Hawkesbury ; transfer ;
Canada Atlantic and Plant Line to Boston.
No. II.— To the Upper Provinces.— Canada At
lantic and Plant Steamship Line to Halifax {In
tercolonial Railway to Point Levis ; ferry to Que
bec ; Grand Trunk Railway or R. & O. Navigation
Company steamer to Montreal ; rail lines to Boston.
No. 12. — Comprehensive and Grand.- Canada
Atlantic and Plant Steamship Line to Plalifax ; In
tercolonial Railway or Bras d'Or Navigation Com
pany to Sydney ; Intercolonial Railway to Point
Levis ; ferry to Quebec ; Grand Trunk Railw^ay or
R. & O. Navigation Company steamerto Montreal ;
rail lines to Boston.
This is one of the grandest and most comprehen
sive summer vacation trips available by the tourist.
No. i3. — Historic Quebec. — Canada Atlantic and
Plant Steamship Line to Charlottetown ; P. E. I.
Railway to Summerside ; Quebec Steamship Com
pany to Quebec ; Grand Trunk Railway or R. & O.
Navigation Company steamer to Montreal; rail
lines to Boston (Meals and berth on Quebec S. S.
Company's steamer, $5.50 extra).
No. 14.— Beautiful Hontreal.— Canada Atlantic
and Plant Steamship Line to Charlottetown ; P. E. I.
Railway to Summerside ; Charlottetown Naviga
tion Company to Point du Chene : Intercolonial
Railwav to Point Levis ; ferry to Quebec ; Grand
Trunk Railway or R. &. O. Navigation Company
steamer to Montreal ; rail lines to Boston.

OTHER TOURS.

Persons desirous of going to other points and by
other routes not indicated in the foregoing will be
given figures on application to the agents at Boston
or Halifax.

Rates for above tou.rs on application to agents.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Relative to Local Rates of Passage, Meals on Steamers, Prices of Staterooms.

HALIFAX SERVICE.

RATES OF FARE BETWEEN BOSTON ANn
HALIFAX, IN EITHER DIRECTION : . .

First-Class, one way, including berth in cabin (meals and stateroom berths extra,) $ 7 oo
Pirst-Class, excursion, including berth in cabin " " " 12 00
Berths in staterooms, sold only to passengers holding first-class or excursion tickets :
$1 50, $2 00, $2 50, $3 00 each, according to size and location of rooms. Tavo berths
in each room. Meals :— Dinner, 75 cts. Breakfast or Supper, go cts.
CHARLOTTETOWN SERVICE.

RATES OF FARE BETWEEN .
BOSTON AND HAWKESBURY.

FirstoClass, one way, including berth in cabin (meals and stateroom berths e.xtra,) $ 8 50
First-Class, excursion, including berth in cabin " " " ig 00
RATES OF FARE BETAVEEN BOSTON AND CHARLOTTETOWN.
Pirst-Class, one way, including berth in cabin (meals and stateroom berths extra,) $ 9 00
Pirst-Class, excursion, including berth in cabin " " " 16 00
Berths in stateroom, $2 00 each ; two berths in each room. Limited number family
rooms, accommodating three persons, $5 00 each.
Meals;— Dinner, 75 cts. Breakfast or Supper, 50 cts.

The * *

EXPOSITION FLYER'

is no "ALSO RAN," but a record-breaking, all-round, up-to-date
imported CIGAR. Like its namesake, the famous "999," it
has simply run away from all other brands on the market. Made
from the choicest tobacco, it Has No Equal ....

TRADE /V^RK,

So there is . . . Only one brand in this icorld for nn\
Only one brand rich in luxury,
The EXPOSITION FL ] 'ER no equal lias, you sec,
For there's only one, and that's the one for me.

BEFORE leaving for your summer outing, OA-er the Plant lines, be sure and prepare
yourself Avith smoking material. I carry the largest line of IMPORTED AND
DOMESTIC CIGARS in the United States, and can suit any taste. Goods put up
especially for travelers' use.
Remember I give the consumer the benefit of lowest wholesale prices. I am enabled
to do this OAving to my enormous trade in all grades of cigars.
My Pipe and Smoking Tobacco Department is the largest in New York, and purchasers
cannot fail to be suited.
IIt^= Mail and express orders receiA'e prompt attention. Complete price list sent on
application. t^* r^* t£^
MORGAN MARSHALL

Branch Store :
387 Fulton Street, Brooklyn

29 CORTLANDT STREET, cor. Church
NEW YORK CITY

•ONEILL'S-
SIXTH AVENUE - 20th to 21st St., - NEW YORK
Importers and Retailers

Fine Millinery, Dry Goods. Fancy Goods, China, Glassware,
House Furnishings, Etc.

lil?

— _=^=^JF:

The Most Popular Department Store in the United States.

BUYING BY MAIL

With "O'Neill's," comes as near personal shopping as an infallible mail system can
make it. We believe no store in the United States is so well equipped for prompt
delivery by mail as this big establishment. Say what you want to our Mail Order
Department and you have it by the speediest postal delivery in the World. A host of
hints as to qualities and prices of all manner of personal and household needs is found
in our

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE

which we issue Semi-Annually, and mail free to any address outside of New York City.
.-' "— white for it. ..JfJ

Canada Atlantic and Plant
Steamship Line (umit^d.)
Halifax, hawkesbury, charlottetown.

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OF

an
e
MARITIME PROVINCES.
H. B. PLANT, President.
B. AV. AVRENN, Passenger Traffic Manager
AI. F. PL.*\X'l", V^ice-President and Manager.
F. B P.APY, General Freight .¦A.i^ent.
H. L. CHIPMAN,
Canadian Agent,
Halifax, N. S.
J. AV. PORTER,
City Pass, and Ticket Agent,
207 AVashington St., Boston, Mass.
B. F. BLAKE,
Ass. Gen'l Freight and Pass. Agent,
207 AVashington St., Boston, Mass.
A. P. LANE,
New England Freight Agent,
207 AVashington St., Boston, Mass.
¦ilCHARD.SDN & BARNARD,
Agents,
Lewis Wharf, Boston, Alass.
J. J. FARNSAVORTH,
Eastern Passenger Agent,
261 Broadway, N. V.
T"'? HALIFAX HOTEL,

HALIFAX,
NOVA
SCOTJA

THE great improvements and additions made to
this popular Hotel within the past few years
have now placed it in the ranks as one of the
foremost Hotels in Canada. It contains now
upwards of 200 bedrooms, with ample accommodation
for at least 350 guests. The spacious Dining Hall has
a seating capacity for 200 persons. The Parlors, Read
ing Room, and Chambers are all comfortably fitted up
and supplied with all modern improvements. Incan
descent Lights throughout the whole building, in both
corridors and rooms. An attractive Conservatory and
magnificent outlook over the Harbor, which is admired
very much by tourists, is approached from the Ladies'
Parlor. The Cuisine is of the finest; and the proprietors are
safe in saying that those who may honor them with
their patronage will feel well satisfied with their visit
to Halifax.
TERMS MODERATE
^* ^* e^*
H. HESSLEIN & SONS, Proprietors.

y\LBION [4oTEL
GRANT BROS.,
Proprietors : : :
Terms, One Dollar Fifty
per Day.
HALIFAX, N. S.
The Most Central Hotel in the City, near Custom
House, Post Office, Pnncipal Banks and One
Block from Plant Steamship Co.'s Wharf

W. C. SMITH
MERCHANT
TAILOR.. . .
No. 141 HOLLIS STREET
HALIFAX, N. S.
Importer of the Latest English Novelties

Winter Tours to the Tropics.
CUBA

"THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES.

AND

JAMAICA

"THE SUNLAXD oF THE WORLD."
. . REACHED BY THE .
Plant Steamship Line
MM rM M^
OPERATING magnificent steel passenger ships,
carrying United States mails, sailing from
Port Tampa, Florida, maintaining a regular schedule
to Cuba all the year round and making occasional trips
during the winter to Jamaica. Equipped with every
modern convenience. Provided with approved safety
appliances. Commanded by courteous and com
petent officers, making a trip upon them enjoyable
and a pleasant memory. ^^^j^^j^^^^^^J''^
At W* 9^
H. B. PLANT, B. W WRENN,
CManager, Passenger Traffic manager,
\2 West 23d Street, N. Y. Savannah, Ga.

Rogers
Locomotive Company

PATERSON, N. J

44 EXCHANGE PLACE,

NEW YORK

established 1831

Kvamw.s.ii'''' '¦¦-:¦•'¦¦'¦

BUILDERS OF

Locomotive Engines and Tenders

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

R. S. HUGHES. Fres. G. E HANNAH, Treas.
G. H. LONGBOTTOM, Sre. REUBEN WELLS, Supt.

SYDNEY HOTEL,

SYDNEY, CAPE
BRETON

Under New Management.
J*
Newly Furnished and Refitted.
J-
Cuisine now under the di
rection of Thomas Mitchell,
late of S. S. "Marion," and
known to all American tour
ists.

¦if« F

THE hotel is beautifully situated, overlooking Sydney Harbor. The trip to Sydney
and vicinity embraces a sail through the Famous Bras d'Or Lakes. Historic
Louisburg only one hour by rail. Boating, Bathing, Fishing, Golf, Tennis.
Steam Launch now running daily on the charmingly picturesque Mira River. Convenient
to I. C. R. Station and Steamers to all points. It will be the aim of the management to
make this hotel the Brightest, Most Attractive and Best Conducted Resort for tourists in
the Provinces. Without doubt the Palace Hotel of the East. Terms moderate. Accom
modation for one hundred. Up to date in every particular. : ; : ;
JAMES P. FAIRBANKS, Proprietor. ^ SYDNEY.

Without a Peer.
The passenger service of the Queen & Crescent Route
is without a peer among the Southern Lines. The
road is fully equipped with block signal system,
safety signals and interlocking device at railway
crossings. The track is built with 7^-pound steel
rails, and stone ballast. Trains are gas-lighted
and steam-heated, and provided with electric
headlights. By traveling on the Q. & C. one
secures the benefit of every appliance for
safety and every provision for comfort.
Solid vestibuled trains and through sleepers.
¦" Bend your name and addrea. to W. C. RraEARSOlT. General Passenger Agent.
Olnolnnati, Ohio, lor books, maps or information on the South.

Kelley & Glassey,

THE

EARMENT W OTEL

W NE AND
SPIRIT MERCHANTS

J  d A A
TRURO, N. S.
A. H. LEARMENT, Proprietor

^^v^5*^5^

Finest Sample Rooms in

the Maritime Provinces

LEITH HOUSE, Established 1818

-?i

HALIFAX, N. S.

' 1 'HIS well known hotel has been replaced by
1 a new and modern building, newly fur-
•» nished throughout, and is now one of the
most modern hotels in the Maritime Provinces.
Situated close to the railway station, tourists and
commercial travelers will find it the most con
venient hotel in Truro. Within five minutes of
Truro Park.

3ras d'O^ Hotel

Windsor Hotel

BADDECK, C. B.

FIFTH AVENUE

ALEX. ANDERSON, Proprietor

46th to 47th St., NEW YORK
-X-

ClRST class accommodation
and attendance. Livery

Unsurpassed in location, perfect in all
its appointments, patronized by the
elite of AMERICA and EUROPE.

^

stable in connection with
hotel. : : ::::::
Tourists carried to fishing resorts and
places of interest at reasonable rates.

... TERMS, . .
American Plan — $4.00 per day and upward.
European Plan— $1.50 per day and upward.
Free Coaches and Transfer of Baggage to
and from the Grand Central Depot.
Music during the dinner hour.

All correspondence promptly an
swered.

WARREN F. LELAND
Proprietor

FOUR FAMOUS HOTELS ON THE WEST COAST
OF FLORIDA.
Owned and Operated hy the
PLANT SYSTEM,
Under the management of D. P. H.ath.awan-.

~""' ' ^\',

t

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3 \i__
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4"^

THE TAMPA BAY PALACE, Tampa, Florida.
The Modern Wonder of the World.
THE INN, Port Tampa, Florida. THE SEMINOLE, Winter Park, Florida.
THE OCALA HOUSE, Ocala, Florida.
H. B. PLANT, President. B. W. WREXN, Passenger Traffic Manager.

PLANT SYSTEM, $ $ 5.209 miles
Perfect Passenger Service, reaching the most important points in Alabama,
South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Cuba, Jamaica and Nova Scotia

Fast passenger trains, with Pullman finest sleeping cars attached, run betAveen all points.
The finest health and pleasure resorts of Florida are reached by the lines of the Plant System.

H. B. PLANT, President

B. AV. "WRENN, Passengrer Traffic Manager

9321

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