YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

c

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON B.A. 1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION • HUNTING & FISHING

GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1897

SECOND Edition

^uje/ie /fc.Cdr//?/.

ADVERTISEMENTS

By Appointment

The largest Stock
of Fine Furs in the
Dominion. Always
on view Russian
and Hudson Bay
Sables, Silver and
Arctic Foxes. Our
Garments are cut
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Styles

FURRIERS to
=== Ber majesty Queen Jllesandra
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Holt,Renfrew & Co.
jl^ 35-43 Buade Street,
~ QUEBEC.

Branch : 5 King St., East TORONTO

sesss'ss^ssfss'

Sporting and Fishing

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The Chinic Hardware Co y

Keep constantly on hand
besides General Hard
ware, a select stock of
FORREST & SONS'
(Kelso) Salmon
Flies Tested Salmon
and Trout Leaders.
Redditch
Trout Files.
BOIVIN'S Celebrated
Salmon
and Trout Rods

28 Fabrique St. and
foot of Mountain Hill

QUEBEC

Keep constantly on hand
besides General Hard
ware, a select stock of
l^eels and Lines
Rifles
and Shot Guns of
up-to-date
patterns. Tents,
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Boots, Canoes, -
Camp Kits,
etc.

The Ladies seek the Ouananiche as well.

A TALE

LAKE ST. JOHN

COMPRISING

A BIT OF HISTORY
A QUANTITY OF FACTS
AND
A PLENITUDE OF FISH STORIES
BY
Eugene McCarthy
Author of^^ The Leaping Ouananiche.'"
" Famitiar Fish.^^ etc.

SECOND EDITION
TWENTIETH THOUSAND

MONTREAI. :
DESBARATS & CO.
ENGRAVERS, PRINTERS AND PUBI,ISHERS
¦1903

To those whom Fortune has presented, from her store of gifts,
the particular one most dear to lovers of the rod and gun, the desire
to seek the haunts offish and game, I dedicate this work. He who
casts the fly, or he who prefers the gun, can find equally satisfying
sport in the territory described. The true sportsman is Nature's
noble-man, and in Nature's domain, undefiled by the advance of
civilization, will find all the sport that desire can picture and
experience can realize.
To H. f. Beemer, Esq., who, through the expenditure of -much
time and -money, has thrown open an hundred thousand or more
square miles of virgin territoty to those who love the sports and
seclusion of the wilderness, I especially dedicate this.
T doubt not but that those who have in the past visited this
grand country reserved for sportsmen, and those who in the future
may do so, will gratefully join in this especial dedication with me.
E. McC.

INDEX.
Chapter I— En route  7
It— The Hotel Roberval  10
III — The Grande Ddcharge  13
IV — lyac de Belle Riviere  21
V — Lake Tschotagama and the Peribonca River . . 26
VI — The Ouiatchouaniche and La Croche Rivers . . 26
VII — The Ashuapmouchouan, Lac-i-Jim, and Fifth
Falls, Mistassini River  33
VIII — The Metabetchouan  39
IX— Other Trips to be Taken  43
X— The Hatchery  47
XI — The Saguenay  52
XII — Equipment Necessary  58
XIII — General Information  64
XIV— The Pro and Con. of Success and Satisfaction
to be Found  71

INTRODUCTION.

To the sportsman, the winter reminiscences of his journeyings
in quest of fishing and hunting, during the preceding season or
seasons, affords, next to the trip itself, the greatest amount of
pleasure. When the cold is strong without and the fire cheerful
within, then do the reminiscences come to mind in full force. If
alone, the thinker passes many an hour in dreamland, living over
his successes and non-successes, realistic to such a degree that he
can almost feel the line tighten on the fish, or see the game fall
before his gun . If with his friends, stories of the past are exchanged,
and many a glass is drained to the memories of former trips, and
still more to the success of those to be taken iu the coming year.
Spring and summer seem a long distance off. Impatience is
strong within the sportsman. Will the time to seek the woods
ever arrive? But one prescription can be prescribed, and that
unfortunately is but a temporary relief, not a cure. After reminis
cences have been exchanged, time and time again, until nothing
new can be said, after the dreamer has dreamed all of the past,
then does impatience become rampant and the longing for spring
to come unbearable. The one semi-cure inay now be appHed.
Primarily it consists in planning new resorts to seek, as perchance
the old ones are now fished and hunted out. This is more readily
accomplished by reading the varied stories of other sportsmen, as
published, selecting from their experiences where to make a trip

or trips. Then, between reading, selecting and planning, the time
passes— the where, when and how has been decided upon — the
cure has been productive of beneficial results to a greater or lesser
degree. There can be no question but that very many sportsmen are
constantly seeking new territory where satisfying sport may be
had. With this idea in mind, I have prepared this series of articles,
descriptive of many trips that I have taken about Lake St. John,
the one home of the greatest of fresh-water fish — the ouananiche.
An unlimited territory is here found, with unlimited forest, plenti
fully stocked with game, and unlimited waters teeming with fish.
Here everything is unlimited — the territory, the grandeur of
scenery, the game, and the fish. Thousands of square miles,
unknown, await the intrepid sportsman, who, with time at his
command, can reach virgin forests and waters, where, being first
to cast the fiy or seek for game, secures success that he never dared
dream of before. To those with limited time, the nearby trips
afford, at the proper season, satisfying sport. That this is not
fiction but fact, I trust that the reminiscences following will fully
prove.

CHAPTKR I.
"The Irishman's description of a wilderness, as being a place
where the hand of a man had never set foot, properly describes the
primeval wilderness we have been passing through on our railroad
journey to-day."
This was the remark of a companion of mine who was making
his first trip over the Quebec & Lake St. John Railway. It was
aptly expressive, as the road, for two-thirds of its length, traverses
a mountainous wilderness, grand in the extreme and showing but
little of the advance of civilization. We had left behind the mag
nificent view of Quebec and the St. Lawrence valley, as the train
slowly ascended the mountains, had passed successfully the surging
falls of the Jacques Cartier River beneath the railroad bridge,
beautiful Lake St. Joseph, and the thriving little town of St.
Raymond. Now the forest is primeval, with but little sign of the lumber
man's desecration. Up and up slowly climbs the train, and from
our station on the rear platform we can see the heavy grades and
continuous sharp curves. An occasional small clearing, with a few
log-houses, sheltering perchance railroad hands or two or three
straggling settlers, forms the only break or evidence of habitation.
Some seventy miles from Quebec has been covered, and now
occurs an episode — a fish story. Certainly every five minutes or
less we had crossed a river or stream or passed a lake. Knowing
that all of these waters were full of trout, my companion's anxiety
to fish had become so strong he could scarcely restrain himself
from pulling the cord to stop the train and cast his flies. We had
reached the Batiscan River, whose broad, constant tumbling waters
the road follows for many miles, when suddenly the train stopped.
Investigation showed a cylinder-head blown out of the engine, and
an hour or two delay imminent. The wires must be tapped and
another engine ordered on from Quebec. Not over ten feet dis-

8 A TAI<E OF I<AKE ST. JOHN.
tant from the river, and about eight feet above it, stood the train.
The black waters tumbling over the rocks formed an ideal place
for trout. " Now is your opportunity," I advised my companion. " Set
up your rod and put on a cast, and satisfy your fishing fever." In
a few moments, acting upon my advice, he emerged from the ear,
rod in hand, eager for sport.
"Why not make a new record in trout fishing?" I asked.
"Stand on the steps of the car and catch your fish.", Bert, as I
should have named my companion, and who, by the way, is a fine
fly caster, again accepted my advice, and from the lower step
whipped the foamy water. A few casts and eight-inch trout is
reeled in, followed by another add another. A harder strike and
fight and a lusty one-pound trout is added to those on the platform.
In short order nineteen trout were taken, and Bert's fever was
allayed. Others tried their hand with equal success. Improperly,
I have stated that this was a fish story. It is pure fact, not fiction.
The engine arrives, and again we proceed. I point out to Bert
a number of club stations and club houses. Much of the territory
along the road is now taken up by fish and game clubs, and grand,
indeed, is the sport the members secure. Not only are trout
plentiful on all sides, but moose and caribou abound as well.
With appetites sharpened by the delay, we finally reached
Lake Edward, one hundred and thirteen miles from Quebec,
where a stop of twenty minutes is made for dinner at a small hotel
located on the lake. A few log-houses are about — all else wilder
ness. Again we set off, and another succession of rivers, streams
and lakes is encountered. One little creek that we crossed, not
over six feet wide, I call particular attention to. In the spring of
1897, I know that two fishermen took along this water in less than
one week, over four hundred and fifty pounds of trout, that they
sold in the Quebec markets. This, perhaps, is one of the best
indications of the fishing to be had in this country. Bert asks :
"Have you fished all of these ? " To which I reply : " I have not,
and never expect to, as an ordinary lifetime would not afford
suificient time." Just then passing Lake Bouchette, a large body
of water lying far below, I can relate that, about three years pre-

Hotel Roberval, Lake St. John.

A TAI.E OE I.AKE ST. JOHN. 9
vious, a companion and myself secured two hundred and sixty-
seven trout on the river flowing from the lake, at " Petite Roche "
springhole, in about six hours. This seems incredible to Bert, and
he says so. I reply : " One in reality cannot lie about the sport
they have had in this country. If one exaggerates a little in num
ber and size, the next catch taken from the same place and shown
by others will often eclipse the fish story catch in fact."
The scenery now becomes more mountainous and rocky, the
forest gives way to scrubby brush. Suddenly the train makes a
sharp curye, rolling out from amongst the rocks upon a cliff. Far
below, and as far as the eye can see, magnificent Lake St. John
bursts into view. Bert is overcome, but finally manages to say :
"No one can blame the ouananiche for taking up its home here,
and I do not wonder that they are never found elsewhere."
Fifteen miles distant is the ancient village of Roberval.
Nearly midway we cross the Ouiatchouan River, and back amongst
the hills can plainly be seen the beautiful falls bearing that name.
As the lake is in full view, it forms a pretty picture, attracting,
attention, and almost before one is aware the village is reached.
After a short stop the train proceeds a mile beyond, to the foot of
the lawn at the Hotel Roberval. Two hundred miles have been
traversed through the Laurentian wilderness, and the traveller
views with surprise the magnificent hotel that hospitably awaits
him. While beyond expectation, the reality in comfort found
exceeds even what surface indications seem to promise.

CHAPTER II.
The Hotei< Roberval.
Bert wonders constantly as each new feature of the splendid
Hotel Roberval is seen. Everyone wonders in like manner. It
represents an immense investment, and every detail is in perfect
keeping. A more comfortable hostelry cannot be found in Canada,
and, with the variety of sport to be had, it makes an ideal resort
for sportsmen. Naturally Bert asks what sport can be had in the
vicinity of Lake St. John, other than ouananiche fishing. In ad
vising him what could be done and where, I spent many hours, both
at the hotel and in camp, and then could not cover the subject.
Bert suggests, eagerly: "Suppose that we get up early and
catch some fish before breakfast?" "Unfortunately," I reply,
"you have the same erroneous idea as is held by the majority of
sportsmen on their first visit to Roberval. There is no fishing
from the hotel porch, or in the immediate vicinity of the hotel,
except trolling in the lake, which can be done at all times, when
pickerel {brocket), wall-eyed pike (dorS), and some ouananiche
are taken on the spoon. From the Roberval, for trout fishing,
trips of from one day to any number of weeks must be had.
Successful and satisfying jaunts can be arranged to fit the time at
one's command."
" But how about the ouananiche fishing? " is the next query.
"At all times there is good ouananiche fishing at the Grande
D^charge, in the immediate vicinity of the Island House, which is
conducted by the Roberval Hotel people. It is reached by steamer
m two hours across the lake. ' '
"Is that the best and only nearby place for this fishing?"
Bert asks, dubiously. °
In reply, I hasten to state : "There are eighteen rivers, large
and small, flowing into Lake St. John, nearly all of which furnifh
fine fishing at some time during the season. For two hundr d to

A TAtE of I<AKE ST. JOHN. 11
three hundred miles north, up the three great rivers — the Peri
bonca, Mistassini and Ashuapmouchouan — there are innumerable
branches, draining hundreds and thousands of lakes, nearly all of
which afford fine ouananiche fishing, and are full of trout, pickerel,
pike and lake trout as well. To reach these, short or long trips
may be taken. As you look across the lake to the north, there is
not a settlement, except the Trappist monastery on the Mistassini,
and but very few habitations to be found until Hudson Bay is
reached — some five hundred miles away. You are in a cleared
settlement, yet in the midst of a wilderness, surrounded by the
finest fishing to be had. A few miles in any direction leaves
civilization behind and you are deep in the woods."
Early the following morning Bert aroused me, stating he
wanted to see and learn something regarding the surroundings,
that, with our late arrival the evening previous, darkness had
prevented. The early sun shone brightly on "the great body of
water stretched out before ,us, and a most magnificent sight it
was. Lake St. John, thirty to thirty-five miles in diameter, is an
immense inland sea, and only in a few instances can the opposite
shore be discerned.
" What is there, other than the sport to be had, to interest one
here ? ' ' Bert queries, after a time.
"A short question calling for a long reply," I answer; "a
subject worthy of a lecture. I will tell you briefly. The village
of Roberval, which, with the neighboring settlers, claims two
thousand five hundred inhabitants, is well worth seeing ; the
quaint houses and strange habitants — French Canadian, Indian,
and mixed. Historically the town is practically as old as Quebec.
Next in order is the Montagnais Indian reservation at Pointe
Bleue, four miles distant. Here is located the Hudson Bay post,
and grouped around it, from June to August, are the tents of the
Indians. At the post they barter their furs, and then again jour
ney, often hundreds of miles, to hunt and trap during the long
winter. Canadian history claims the Montagnais to have been the
most powerful tribe of Indians on the continent. To-day, deci
mated by starvation and disease, but a small remnant remains.
They are interesting to visit. Of special interest are their customs.

12 A Tai,E OF I,AKE ST. JOHN.
manner of living, and birch-bark canoe-building. The valuable
furs at the post can also be seen."
" I must see all this. What next? " Bert interrupts.
"Next in point of interest are the Ouiatchouan Falls, six,
miles away. They are on the river of the same name, which is the
outlet of Lake Bouchette, that we passed on the cars yesterday.
They are two hundred and sixty-five feet high. A large body of
water passes over, and, coming through a cleft in the mountain,
they form one of the grandest falls I have ever seen. Five miles
from the hotel, en route to the falls, Mr. Beemer, the owner of the
Hotel Roberval and lessee of the St. John territory, has just com
pleted a fish-hatchery, to increase the ouananiche and trout supply,
as also to raise salmon {salmo salar) for his waters. As this is of
especial interest, we will visit it later, before we return home.
Strange as it may seem, quite good roads can be found, and several
most beautiful drives can be made. The scenery changes from
clearing to forest, and from mountain to plain. At the hotel music,
billiards, bowling, tennis and other amusements can entertain the
stay-at-homes." " How about trips on the lake ? Where can one go by steamer ? ' '
"The largest boat you see at the dock — ^the "Mistassini" —
makes a trip to the Island House, at the Grande D^charge, every
day, going over in the morning and returning kt night.. The other
steamer you see— the "Peribonca "—runs to the Peribonca River
two or three times a week. Still another boat— the "Colon"—
runs up the Mistassini River to the Trappist monastery, near the
first falls, which is especially worthy of a visit. Then, there is the
little steamer " Undine," that can be chartered by fishing or plea
sure parties at any time. I must not overlook mentioning the large
mill you see over there on the shore of the lake. It is considered
one of the largest in Canada, and very interesting to visit. Its prin
cipal business is sawing ' 'deals' ' for shipment to England You can
now see, Bert, how much of interest there is, aside from fishing "
" I am too anxious to catch ouananiche to go sight-seeing now
but when we finish with fishing I want to see some of the things
you have mentioned. Let us have breakfast, and get ready for our
trip to the Grande Ddcharge."

Steamer Mistassini, Lake St. John.

CHAPTER III.
The Grande D^jcharge.
It was a beautiful trip across the lake to the Grande D^charge,
and the changing view of the rolling, forest-covered mountains
magnificent. Bert, however, all anxiety to catch his first ouana
niche, was busy with rods and tackle, and could only be induced
to occasionally glance up. " Where will we fish ; where will we
go ; and what will we see at the Uncharge?" Berts asks ; and I
while away the two-hour trip answering his questions.
We will each take a canoe and two guides ; first, on account
of safety, and, secondly, because two cannot successfully cast for
and play ouananiche in the same boat. A birch-bark canoe is abso
lutely the only safe craft to use in the wild waters and rapids of
the D^charge, strange as it may seem. Its strength is in its very
lightness and apparent weakness. That it is a most buoyant boat
is its first claim, and the spring of the ribs and toughness of the
bark tllfe other. If a rock is struck with much force, it bounds off
uninjured, unless a sharp point makes a small hole, in which case
a few chips burning melt the gum in a cup always carried, and,
with a piece of cloth, repairs are made at once. It would be
impossible for one guide to manage a canoe in the rapids, and two
guides and two passengers would overload for rough water. The
Grande D^charge and the Petite D^charge, three miles away, form
the outlets of Lake St. John. Joining ten miles below the lake,
they carry away the inflowing waters of eighteen large and small
rivers that feed the lake. In a journey of over forty miles to tide
water at Chicoutimi the fall is about three hundred feet, which
accounts for the terrific and practically continuous rapids through
out almost the entire distance. At Chicoutimi the Ddcharge
becomes the dark, gloomy river of mystery — the Saguenay. Alma
Island separates the two Decharges. Numberless islands dot the
lake about the outlet, and a large number are found all along the

14 A TAI.E OF 1,AKE ST. JOHN.
Grande D^charge for a dozen miles or more. Some of the rapids
can be run in a canoe, but the greater majority cannot. Those
passable are rarely, if ever, run in extreme high water. The
ouananiche fishing commences amongst the islands in the late,
and is considered good for about twenty miles down the D^charge.
In the more quiet pools and bays, in the rough waters of the
rapids, in the foam-covered pools below, almost anywhere, the
fish is taken. The pools are numberless, and all are good. About
the islands in the lake fly casting is often successful, but there
usually, as well as down to the first rapid, trolling with flies, or a
spoon or small spinner, succeeds best. All other pools and rapids
are fished with flies. It is useless to attempt to describe the
rapids, the fishing or the scenery — it is impossible, as you will see,
Bert. I want you to see as much as our limited time will permit —
get plenty of fishing, run rapids and see the wildest flow of water
to be seen anywhere. We will stop at the Island House, and make
day trips from there. In this way we will be more comfortable
and can accomplish more."
We had been rapidly approaching the D^charge, and as I
finished, the Island House came into view about a mile distant.
Already the steamer began to feel the force of the outflowing
current of the lake, and the speed increased. In a few moments,
with steam reduced, we fairly rushed by several islands,and with a
graceful curve swung alongside the dock in front of the hotel.
Bert was the first to laud, and waited impatiently for me.
' ' Let us secure our guides at once, and start out fishing ; I am all
ready." My advice that dinner first was a necessity, and that
then we could start out for the afternoon, finally prevailed. Bert,
however, wanted to fish from the dock until dinner time. As this
did not promise success, I managed to have him give up the idea.
I found that Johnny Morel and Ferdinand La Roche, with two
other guides, had been apportioned to us, which pleased me par-
ticulariy, as I had had them before, and considered them especially
valuable men.
Immediately after dinner we had a talk with the guides and
as a result concluded to fish the pools at the foot of the Grande
Chute, some three miles down the D^charge. Embarking in our

The Ouananiche. — A 7^-lb. Specimen.

A TAI,E OF I,AKE ST. JOHN. 15
canoes, the swift current quickly carried us over the intervening
mile to the head of the first rapid below the hotel. Except in very
high water, or unless passengers are timid, this rapid is always run
with the canoes.
" You don't mean to say we are going through there?" Bert
asked, as he saw the rough water and high, leaping waves below.
"Certainly; and you will want to run all the other rapids
afterwards," I replied, I could see Bert nervously clutch the
gunwales, as his canoe rushed into the terrific current. In a
moment he had descended the first sharp incline — a slant of three
or four feet — then mounted the great wave below — tossed here and
pitched there, skilfully guided by the men between dangerous
rocks and immense waves — first up on the crest, then down almost
out of sight in the hollow — then a channel that must be avoided
and another taken. The guides calmly give a strong stroke or
two with the paddles, and the canoe glides across the leaping
waves easily and into the other course. More pitching and toss
ing, more rocks, some fairly grazed by the canoe — ahead a con
tinuation of the rapids absolutely impassable. Suddenly the canoe
is impelled on a slant across the wild waters, a final toss by the
waves, and it glides into a small bay, calm and smooth as a pond.
Watching Bert's passage through the rapid ahead of me, I had scar
cely, realized my own trip, until I was swung alongside of him, the
run safely made. We had covered in two or three minutes a distance
that required ten minutes to walk on the portage when returning.
Bert immediately exclaimed : ' ' Let us go back and go through
again. It is the finest sport I have ever had. ' '
" But, how about the fishing ? "
"Oh! that can wait." Assuring him that he would have
many more opportunities to run rapids, he was finally content to
continue the trip. With smooth water for a distance, and two
portages, we were soon at the foot of the "Grande Chute," and,
climbing along the rocks, were at the rough waters where the
ouananiche lie. Purposely I worked slowly, stringing up my rod,
as I wanted my companion to catch the first fish, and see what he
would do with it. But a few minutes elapsed before I heard Bert
cry out : " Gee- whizz, Mac ; look at that ! "

l6 A TAI,E OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
He had hooked a ouananiche, and it had given its first leap.
In a great majority of cases this fish takes the fly under water and
foam, so that the strike is not often seen, the pull, run out of the
line or a jump being the first intimation that a fish is hooked. It
had "so happened now. Bert had felt his line pull, immediately
followed by a wild leap of the fish from the water. It was great
sport to see that fish rush about, leap, and then plunge down deep.
His fighting strength, aided by the rough waters, gave Bert a hard
struggle, so much so that he did not speak again until his fish was
brought to net. The fish weighed three and a half pounds, had
jumped seven times from the water, and gave Bert thirteen minutes
tussle to conquer.
" Well, what do you think of the ouananiche now? " I asked.
" I did not believe you when you said they were the
hardest fighting fresh-water fish, and especially that they could
teach a black bass how to fight. Now, however, I am a be
liever. This is the finest fishing I have ever had, and this one
fish I have just killed, if I get no more, would repay me for
the trip." "Just notice, Bert, the peacock-blue shading it has. It will
soon disappear, and then you will see the silver white and black of
the salmon. To my mind, the ouananiche has many more and
heavier black crosses and spots than the salmon, especially on the
gill covers. There can be no question but that it is a descendant
of the salt-water salmon, that it has run up from the sea in the
past, and has continued to remain in fresh water. The new
environments have depreciated it in size only, have increased the
proportionate size of tail and fins — mainly, I believe, from its con
stant struggle with swift waters. The color and markings have
changed slightly from its progenitor, and, pound for pound, it will
outfight it. The flesh is salmon-pink, with the flaky texture of the
salmon, more tender, and lacking in the excess of oil and fat that
a fresh-run salmon has. This would naturally follow from the
difference of food. ' '
" From my knowledge of fish and fishing, I believe you are
correct," Bert answered, as he finished a critical examination of
the fish. • ' Here goes for another. ' '

Foot of Grande Chute, Grande Decharge.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 1 7
Nine fish were brought to our nets, in two and a half hours,
that afternoon, and three were lost besides. The weight was from
two and a half to four pounds.
Our time at the Decharge being limited, I suggested to Bert
that we try a variety of fishing the following day, especially as he
had had a good introduction to ouananiche fishing in rough water.
We left our comfortable beds at the Island House quite early, and
proceeded up the eastern shore of the lake en route to the Pipe
River, about five miles distant, with trolling rods and lines and num
ber five spoons. We trolled the whole distance. We took several
dor^, one weighing eight pounds. Arrived at the Pipe, we spent
some time trolling about its mouth, determined to secure some of
the large brochet, often taken there. We found an old Indian
on a sloping rock on the shore, casting out a spoon fastened to an
old line and pole. Suddenly he secured a strike, and the sequence
was very amusing. The fish was evidently a large one, and, owing
to the insecure footing the slanting rock afforded and the age and _
weakness of the Indian combined, the contest for superiority
favored first one side and then the other. At times the old fisher
man was drawn down the rock into the water, nearly to his waist ;
then he would in turn draw the fish almost out. We watched the
struggle at close range, to render assistance if necessary. Finally
the fish became tired, and the Indian, placing the pole over his
shoulder, turned his back to the brochet, and proceeded, inch by '
inch, up the rock, dragging it, slowly and laboriously, after him.
It was a very large fish, which we estimated to weigh fully thirty
pounds. We secured several of these fish afterwards, but nothing
heavier than sixteen pouuds. Shortly after noon we returned to
the Island House, and decided to troll with flies and small spin
ners attached to our fly rods, amongst the islands in the lake.
This method only of fishing in this particular place seems to be
successful at almost all times ; nor was our luck that day any
exception. "The fishing we have had to-day is too tame ; I want to go
where we can run rapids and fish in rough water," was Bert's
remark when we returned to the hotel. "Very well," I replied;
" we will go down the Decharge to-morrow as far as Isle Maligne,

l8 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
and camp there overnight. This will give you a surfeit of shooting
rapids, with much danger added, and plenty of good fishing."
Having made all arrangements after supper, we were able to get a
6 A. M. start. We repeated our journey of the first afternoon, and
fished many of the pools below the Grande Chute. Wherever we
saw a patch of heavy foam {brou), there we cast our flies, and met
with splendid success. It is not well always to give the number of
fish caughtj as one's memory is liable to be defective, and a charge
of exaggeration follows guess work.
Not to spend much time at any one spot, we started down the
river, as I was anxious to try the numberless pools on our route,
many of which are never fished. The distance to Maligne from
the Island House is seven or eight miles, with practically the
whole distance a continuous mass of rapids and rough, swift
water, filled with rocks and a countless number of small islands.
In reality the places where one can take ouananiche along this
part of the river are innumerable ; at almost any rapid or eddy
some success can be had. One with ample leisure could spend
much time here and fish new pools constantly. Bert and I often
cast our flies and stopped a few moments at each specially pro
mising place. We were very well rewarded, but not by extra large
fish. At noon we reached Cedar Rapids, and the first real attack of
nervousness was felt as the canoes rushed ahead, as though to
plunge over quite a respectable fall. This run close to danger is
necessary to reach the head of the portage. I think Bert relished it.
"You are a brave rapid runner," I said to him; "but eat a
good lunch now, as you will need strength, fortitude, and even
'Dutch courage' to make the head of Isle Maligne." Not to be
deterred, he hurried us all at our hastily prepared meal in order to
have the "circus," as he termed it. Soon the very loud roar of
the rapids and falls about the island could be heard, and as we
approached nearer I could not but notice that the guides ceased
their conversation, sort of girded up their loins, and plainly showed
an anxious look on their faces. A piece of work both difficult and
dangerous w.as ahead. The head of the island divides the river
and upon each side, beginning above it, are to me the most terrible
rapids on the Ddcharge. I have seen logs passing through fairly

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 19
riven into match-wood. Between the rapids is a lane of fairly
smooth water forty or fifty feet wide. To avoid the rapids and
run through the lane would be comparatively easy, were that the
only danger. Just before entering you will hear the guides say
" Jiemous,'' and indeed there is a whirlpool to be avoided. It is
located in the lane, and the canoes must pass between it and the
rapids — a very limited space. When the whirpool is forming and
growing deeper, nothing could live in it. As it fills up level with
the surface of the water, then is the time to pass. The guides
have been holding the canoes and watching. Suddenly a hurried
word from the bowjnan, and both paddle fiercely. We fairly fly
past the danger, and in a moment we are beached on the island.
"That is all the rapid running I want to-day," was Bert's only
comment for some time.
Maligne is an island something over two miles long, and from
one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide. It is very rocky, rough,
and the lower end is a large mountain that must be crossed.
Fishing must be done from the rocks, and is good all around the
shores, although the best fishing is to be had, and the largest fish
taken, near the foot of the heavier falls. One could spend a week
here, and not begin to cover all possible and likely spots. We had
ample time to fish, and had splendid success, before the tents were
up and supper served. The fish were of good size, Bert taking one
of four pounds. The tramp over the rocks, the fishing and supper
dispelled Bert's nervousness — and mine.
"Are there any more impassable places where they are foolish
enough to run a canoe, like that at the head of the island ? ' ' Bert
asks through the smoke of his pipe. "There are other wicked
places, and a number, too, below. Don't you want to go around
and come down to the island again to-morrow ? You always want
to run a rapid a second time. "
" Principally not. I don't object to a rapid, but I do object to
skimming along the brink of miniature Niagaras. ' '
"About a mile below us, just where the Petite Ddcharge flows
in, is the Vache Caille rapids, that are very wicked, and a mile or
two below the Gervais. They are treacherous, indeed ; but it is
sport to run the possible places: We will not have time to make

20 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
them." Bert had rolled up in his blanket, and I heard a sleepy
voice say, " Thank heaven ! "
The next morning we crossed the mountain, after breaking
camp, and on the summit, some five hundred or six hundi-ed
feet high, we had a most magnificent view. The gratideur of the
long stretches of tumbling rapids made a panorama unsurpassed.
At the foot of the island we fished a number of pools, with the
same good success. It is an exciting trip across the rapids from
Maligne to Alma Island, and looks impassable. Our only mishap
was to ship a little water. We portaged to a point above the
Maligne Rapids, and then took our canoes to ascend the river. As
it takes practically all day to make the return journey, we did not
stop to fish. Again reaching the Island House, Bert suggested
that our limited time for the Ddcharge was about up ; so we con
cluded to leave on the steamer next day. I fear the passage to
Maligne had destroyed his taste for canoeing through rapids.
In fishing the pools 'near the hotel, the following morning,
before leaving, Bert had an experience I will relate in his own
words. " In casting in a pool — I was using two flies — I had a double
strike and succeeded in hooking both fish. The one that took the
dropper must have been a strong fish, as, after a few struggles and
jumps, he departed, having broken the fly. The other, a much
smaller fish, I continued playing, and had him about tired out,
when I got a terrific strike that nearly doubled up the rod and
myself as well. I could not imagine what it was any more than
can you now. The strain on the rod was very great, but not much
fighting— more of a dead weight. I finally got the fish to the
canoe, and as Johnnie started to net it he exclaimed, " Two fish ! "
Sure enough it was. The ouananiche was a small one, perhaps
one and a half pounds. Tightly fastened to it was a pickerel of
seven or eight pounds, with fully half the ouananiche down its
throat. It had gripped its prey so savagely, its mouth was com
pletely filled, and its hooked teeth set in so deeply that it could
not let go. Here is the combination in proof." It was a com
bination, indeed, that he held up before me, and just as he stated.
" I am going to have them mounted just as they are "—and he did.

Out for Ouananiche, Island House.

CHAPTER IV.
Lac de Belle Riviere.
Our next trip was to Lac de Belle Riviere, and a most successful
one it proved to be. The Roberval Hotel people provided guides,
tents, blankets, camp equipment and provisions, in fact, all neces
sary for a camping trip in the woods, as they always do. This is a
great advantage, as one needs to come to Lake St. John provided
with ouly suitable clothing and tackle. Bert was very enthusiastic
over the trip, and he stated he had never had any really first-class
trout fishing, and had never taken one of two pounds. I had
agreed that the trip would furnish both, with possibly the sight of
a caribou as well.
We took the train from the hotel in the evening, reaching
St. Jerome, on the Chicoutimi branch of the Quebec & Lake St.
John Railway, about 9 o'clock. We sought the little inn of mine
host Gauthier, and were well provided for. Before we turned in
we had arranged with him for an early start. He was to provide
buckboards for transportation of ourselves, guides and equipments.
We also arranged to rent his log camp at the lake and his canoes
as well. It is well to make a bargain for all in advance, whic,h can
usually be done at less than the original price asked.
Lac de Belle Riviere lies about fifteen miles south of Lake St.
John, in the midst of the woods, and is reached over the remainS
of what was known as the government road, that originally extended
to Quebec ; now in disuse and largely impassable, except this por
tion, which could well be called the same. Gauthier has made the
bridges passable, and that is all. Two deep ruts, full of rocks,
and mud-holes, form the road. Completely overgrown, with alders
overhanging, one naturally prefers to make the last nine miles on
foot. The first six miles of road after leaving St. Jerome are very
good. About mid-afternoon we reached our lake, and concluded
not to go up to the springholes to fish until the morrow. Just in

22 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
front of the cabin the outlet leaves the lake, forming Belle Rivifere,
quite a respectable stream. Across it are the remains of the old
government bridge and a broken dam. About the bridge and dam,
I knew of old, large trout could always be found ; so, stringing up
our rods and using a Parmacheene Belle and Silver Doctor for
flies, Bert and I started to get a catch for supper. With four
guides, three drivers and ourselves to supply, with fearful appetites
"engendered by the rough road, we felt we had a contract on hand.
Bert took the first fish, one pound, on his second cast, and la
smaller one just after. Then the sport became fast and furious.
Two fish at a time was a common occurrence. Finally Bert hooked
a big one that tipped the scales at two and a half pounds, and with
that we stopped fishing. We had a supply for supper and breakfast
as well. We sat on the old bridge fully an hour, and watched the
trout jumping. It was a beautiful sight, as the constant breaking-
water of the fish had the effect of heavy raindrops steadily falling.
" This is only a preliminary to the fishing you will have on the
lake," I advised Bert. "This is where you get the small fish;
to-morrow you will find large ones. ' '
"I cannot see how you can improve on this. I have just
caught more and larger trout than I ever had the good fortune to
do before, 1 cannot imagine anything better." However, Bert
had come to believe my promises in regard to fish, and was as
anxious as I for the morrow and the grand fishing it would bring.
Immediately after breakfast Bert and I, with our guides, in
two canoes, started up the lake, which, by the way, is seven miles
long, determined to try our luck in the first or "Three-mile
Springhole." At this point quite a large stream, called Riviere
Sauvage, enters the lake from the west. It ehters in a good-sized
bay, and for several rods its channel cuts a clear course through
the lily pads. In the channel the water is from six to ten feet
deep, while on either side it is about four or five feet deep. The
guides held the canoes, using the paddles as stakes, at the edge of
the pads, moving slowly along when necessary. We started cast
ing at once, and almost with the first cast commenced taking fish
as well— large ones at that and plenty of them. The illustration
accompanying shows that day's catch. Incidentally, we kept our

Trout Pool, Outlet Lac de Belle Riviere.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 23
surplus fish in moss, which, with other catches, were taken to
Hotel Roberval on our return and served to the guests.
Bert secured a five pound and five and a quarter pound trout
that day, while I was forced to be content with a four pound. I
have never seen a trout under one-half pound taken from this
springhole, and did not then. Here one does not get a strike
every cast, nor anything like it, as large trout must be coaxed ; but
our all day's work aggregated some sixty fish, from one-half tc
five and one-quarter pounds, averaging large.
" I never believed there was any such fishing possible," Bert
remarked, on our return to camp that night ; " but if you say we
will catch whales, and many of them, to-morrow, I will not
question it.'
Again I repeat that one cannot tell " fish stories " in regard to
the fishing at Lake St. John and vicinity.
The next day we concluded to fish the upper springhole or the
inlet at the head of the lake, and possibly make a portage to
another small lake about half a mile from the head, to catch a few
trout there, and, incidentally, try and see a bear or caribou, as this
little lake with an unpronounceable Indian name is noted for both.
Midway down the lake on our seven mile journey are the
"Narrows," noted for being a great crossing place for caribou.
Silently and with care the guides approached the spot, and sud
denly Prosper, one of the guides, exclaimed, iu an excited whisper :
" Caribou ! caribou ! deux caribous ! " and indeed there were two
caribou just entering the water to cross. As the open season was
nearly a month distant, we could only sit and watch them buoy
antly swim the lake, and imagine what a good shot we could make
at them, and how good their steaks would taste. I can almost
swear that my fingers made dents in my rifle barrel, so hard did I
grip it. Bert claims he bent his, but this I cannot verify.
We finally reached the springhole at. the head of the lake,
which, while not as large as the other and does not have as large
fish, is similar in appearance, and is full of smaller trout.
This point afforded splendid sport, and we took an immense
number of fish, but mostly small, one and a half pounds being the
largest fish taken. As we could only use a small quantity, we took

24 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
the trout from the hooks carefully and put them back into the
water. This is a rule sportsmen invariably follow, as it still affords
the pleasure of catching the fish, without uselessly destroying
them. As we had seen caribou, and did not wish to have our
hearts broken again by seeing others, and as a heavy rain and
wind was brewing, we concluded to give up our portage to the
other lake and returned to camp.
The following morning broke fair, and, in accordance with a
plan made the previous evening, we made an early start, with our
guides and canoes, for Lac au Cedre. Crossing the lake from the
cabin, we ascended a small inlet for some distance, and then made
a half-mile portage, coming out on a small circular lake. This we
crossed, and, following this outlet a few rods, it led us into a lake
fully a mile long, noted both for fine fishing and caribou. Without
stopping we continued the length of the lake and down its outlet
for about half a mile, which then flowed into another fine fishing
lake about three-quarters of a mile long. From thi^ a quarter mile
portage along the outlet, all rapids, brought us to au C^dre. This
is a beautiful L-shaped lake, fully two miles long. In the mouth
of the main inlet, and up the inlet itself, most wonderful fishing
can be had. Bert claims he could have filled a canoe there in half
a day, and I believe it possible.
Here we found many fresh caribou signs, but did not see any
of the animals themselves. A deserted beaver-dam was also found.
In the second lake, on our journey back, we saw three caribou at
some little distance, quietly feeding. We tried our flies on all the
lakes, returning, and found the fisn plentiful and eager to take our
flies. We spent the four days following on Belle Riviere, fishing
the Three-mile Springhole almost entirely, although Bert went
several miles up the Sauvage River and took an immense amount
of small trout. There was no let up to the fishing at the spring-
hole either in number or size. It seemed also that any fly was
taken. I even placed a bit of soiled cotton cloth on a plain snell
hook, and, casting that, took several fish. We returned to the
Roberval with two tent bags full of trout, as we had been requested
to bring them a good quantity. Displayed in a row on the floor,
they made a beautiful sight, and were the means of causing many

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 25
who saw them register a silent vow to seek Lac de Belle RiviSre at
some future time.
I neglected to state that Bert secured seven spruce partridges,
going over the road coming in, while walking ahead of the waggons.
I secured several black duck also on the lake.
It is well to mention that a fine trip can be made south from
Belle RiviSre, through two or three lakes and portages, to the
Riviere aux Ecorces and into the lake of the same name. All of
these waters are noted for very large trout and caribou as well. It
is a trip rarely made, owing to difficulties and the considerable
time necessary to make it.

CHAPTER V.
Lake Tschotagama.
There is nothing more conducive to cement friendship with
one's fellow-sportsmen in the woods than the long evenings spent
in tent or camp. It being after the evening meal — generally the
principal one of the day — a full stomach brings peace and content
ment, aided by a pipe and a snapping fire for warmth and cheer.
Many are the reminiscences of previous trips retold, and each in
turn recounts his personal experience. This was especially true of
Bert and myself. He had related a number of trips he had made
to both the Adirondacks and Maine, and had ended by saying that
for variety, quality and quantity of sport, neither, in his estimation,
could equal his present experience. "I am so well pleased with
my first trip here," he said, "that I have determined to take my
vacation in the Lake St. John country each year hereafter. I wish
you would tell me of the trips to be taken, so that I can make
also." It was a pleasure to do this ; and I present them as told to
him. " It was by accident that I heard of Lake St. John, and made
my first trip there ten years ago. The first two trips I devoted
entirely to ouananiche, at the Grande Ddcharge. That was before
the days of the Island House, and we always stopped at a portable
camp, where we lived very comfortably. In those days the ouana
niche fishing was wonderful ; seventy-five to one hundred fish—
and large ones— could be taken in a day. I have visited Lake St.
John every year since, and, commencing with the third, have
always taken a different trip away from the lake each season."
" What was your first one ? " Bert asks.
" My first trip was to Lake Tschotagama. I had heard much
about it from the guides, and concluded to go, but could get no
one to undertake the trip with me. Coming up on the train from
Quebec that year I had the good fortune to meet an English sports-

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 27
man — ^William Hayes — an assistant district attorney of London. I
explained the trip I expected to make, and he was eager at once to
accompany me. Lake Tschotagama lies close to the Peribonca
River, emptying into it fifty or sixty miles up from Lake St. John.
In consulting with the guides — the head one being Paul Savard,
who was very familiar with the country — they suggested our making
the trip by way of a number of rivers and lakes, and returning
down the Peribonca. This we decided to do. All arrangements
being made, with tents, provisions and four guides, we started
early one morning from camp on a three weeks' trip.
"We descended the Discharge to just above the Cedar Rapids,
where the Mistook River enters. A short portage took us around
the rapids near the mouth, and we started to ascend it. We fol
lowed the river until night, camping at the mouth of a branch
flowing in. The following day we ascended the branch, which
quickly led us to Lake Brochet. From here we made a portage to
Riviere des Aulnaies, which we followed up all day. In both
rivers we found plenty of trout, but small. Leaving the river, we
camped, knowing that on the morrow we had to face a hard four-
mile portage to a small river, an outlet of Lac a I'Ours. Savard
knew of a settler near by, and secured his horse and primitive cart
to convey our canoes and baggage, which expedited matters very
much, although the road through the woods was vile.
" By noon we had covered the four miles, and found the water
too low in the river to make it passable for canoes. Nothing
remained but to go four miles further, to the lake. This led
through a brUlS or burned clearing. It was a fearfully warm day,
and not a drop of water was found anywhere. When we reached
the lake, Hayes and I, after removing only a portion of our cloth
ing, plunged into the outlet, drinking our fill and getting cool as
well. Afterwards, while sitting on a log with my feet in the water,
I took a six-foot leader, with a single fly, and floating it below
me, secured, almost at my feet, enough small trout for supper."
(No remark from Bert.)
' ' From here our route led through two other small lakes and
connecting rivers, from which, by a rather long portage, we reached
the River Blanche, which, five miles below, enters Lake Tschota-

28 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
gama. The river, as is the lake, is bordered by very high moun
tains, very precipitous, and affording a panorama of magnificent
scenery. We entered the lake, and started at once for a camping
place, five miles down.
"Savard suggested trolling, but by some oversight I did not
have a spoon with me. Hayes found a small pearl spoon, about
No. 3 or No. 4, which he attached to his casting line. After a few
moments, a shout from him caused me to have my men paddle the
canoe over to him. ' I have hooked a log or whale, or something,
Mac ; I can't move it.'
'"Gros brocket,' answered Paul, sententiously. As the fish
would not come to the canoe, the canoe was paddled to the fish.
Paul was in the stern, and with a blow of the paddle stunned the
fish. It was too large to take into the canoe, so grasping it by the
eyes and gills, the other guide rapidly paddled to a sandy shore
ahead. Paul was obliged to jump out into about three feet of
water to save and land the fish, as it had become lively again.
' ' It was a brochet, and an immense one. It measured over
fifty inches, and weighed forty-nine pounds when placed on the
scales at Roberval, a week later. Hayes was delighted, and said :
' I will have that mounted in Quebec, and take it to England. I
want to show them that fish, as well as everything else, is g^eat
in America. I never saw a fish of this kind weighing over six
pounds over there.' The guides wrapped it in moss and birch-
bark, and Hayes carefully lugged it over all portages on the way
out. I think it was his bedfellow at night also. It was afterwards
mounted by Murgatroyd, at Quebec, and exhibited there and in
New York.
"We camped on a beautiful point, from which a view of the
whole lake, nine miles long, could be had. After supper, being
anxious to equal my companion's catch, I started out with the
same spoon to try. I had been trolling but a few minutes, when I
got a terrific strike. I held the fish only for a moment, when fish
and spoon departed. Something had broken. There was no
question but that it was a very large fish. Fortunately I found an
old minnow gang in my kit, with which I used a strip of pork in
lieu of a minnow. It did not seem to attract the brochet, but I did

A 25-lb. Pike, Lake Tschotagama.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 29
succeed in taking a fourteen-pound lake trout and two ouananiche
before dark.
"The next day we tried our flies, with but poor success,
securing only three or four quite small ouananiche. Again trolling
with the gang, we secured several lake trout and some small
brochet. Just before dusk we tried flies ag;ain near the shore and
had excellent success, securing several ouananiche from three to
four pounds and a two and a half pound brook trout.
" Paul had constantly talked of the wonderful falls and rapids
of the Peribonca, so we started the following morning to make a
trip down, anxious to see them all. It is useless to attempt to
describe the eleven falls, as it would be impossible. Much of the
river seems to have hewn its course through rock. Some of the
falls are quite high, notably the first below Tschotagama, which is
certainly fifty or sixty feet. None of the rapids could be run by
our canoes entire, but occasionally portions equal to those in the
Grande Decharge gave us all the thrilling excitement we cared
for. In many of the pools at the foot of the various rapids we tried
our flies for ouananiche, and were very successful. It was my
fortune to secure one of six and a half pounds that afforded me
much sport to land. We completed our trip with a notable per
formance on the part of our guides. We left the third falls one
morning at 4 a. m., in a hard rain.storm. Reaching Lake St. John,
it was necessary to skirt along the shore, it being too large a lake
to attempt to cross. We had supper at the mouth of the Mistassini
River ; from there we paddled across to Pointe Bleue, and then to
the Roberval, which we reached about 11.30 P. Ut. We had covered
over forty miles, mostly through the rough waters of the lake —
a notable day's journey.
"For beautiful scenery, fine fishing and a plenitude of excite
ment, I consider the trip up the Peribonca unequalled. As it is
from three hundred to four hundred miles long, one need not feel
cramped for room or. fear to meet too many other sportsmen. A
side trip can be made up the Little Peribonca or the River Aleck,
which lead to_other rivers and lakes innumerable. All swarm with
ouananiche and trout. They are rarely, if ever, fished, so that
virgin sport can be had."

CHAPTER VI.
The Ouiatchouaniche and La Croche Rivers.
"That Peribonca trip must have been a grand one," Bert
remarks. ' ' I think I will take that next year, unless there is a
better one to attract me ahead of it. By the way, are there not
more trips to be taken that are not full of high falls, rough rapids,
rocks and danger? As I have told you, I do not like taking con
stant chances in these Niagara-like places. I want to hear some
thing about calm, peaceful waters, as it were. I admit there is
magnificent mountain scenery to burn ; now give me something
more quiet, without the scenery."
"I fear, Bert, that your taste for wild, rough scenery and
waters has been perverted since the Ddcharge trip. However, I
will tell you of a pretty trip that can be made up the Ouiatchoua
niche River."
" Omit rocks and other rough things, and I will listen quietly,"
Bert enjoins.
" I made this jaunt with another friend, whom I will designate
as Jack, that being a short and easy name to mention. On this
trip we had Patrick and Prosper Clary, Amab Gill and Malek —
the first two half and the others full blood Montagnais Indians.
Most Excellent men they are and whom I can always recommend.
Patrick is now chief of the tribe. The Ouiatchouaniche is rather
a small river, but comes from a long way back in the woods. The
first nine miles from the lake are a succession of small rapids.
Above these canoes are taken, and one can easily ascend between
thirty and forty miles. We sent on our canoes, tents and provi
sions on buckboards around the nine miles by road very early in
the morning. We followed a little later, and upon reaching the
dead water found everything in readiness to proceed.
"We reached a pretty springhole in time for dinner, and we
took trout enough in a few minutes sufficient for four guides and

a tale of lake ST. JOHN. 31
ourselves. I advised Jack to troll his flies behind his canoe. The
result was a constant succession of strikes from small trout. The
first portage is over a very steep hill, but the water being at a good
height, the guides dragged the canoes up through the rapids,
saving us a hard climb.
" Towards night we found the river widened out to about half
a mile, and was simply full of lily pads, without any sign of a
channel through them. At the head of this we camped. Out from
the camp about twenty feet was a little island, on which the guides
placed us. Jack got his flies working first, and the result was so
wonderful, I simply stood and watched. At every cast the water
seemed to boil with trout. Jack is an old trout fisherman, and his
remark was : ' I wish we could photograph this, as no one would
believe such fishing could be possible. '
"Near this point a portage of a mile can be made to Round
Lake, noted for large trout, and plenty of them. A noted and
learned judge went there a year ago, on my recommendation. On
his return he reported as follows : ' You advised me to go to Round
Lake for good sport trout fishing. My idea of such sport is to cast
a fly with a pole and play your fish. I regret to say I had no sport.
I cannot consider it such when, in taking my leaders and flies
from my fly-book and arranging them, trout persist in jumping
from the water and taking the flies in my hands. ' Tbis is verbatim
his report, and, from such a source, cannot be doubted."
" Be careful, Mac," Bert interposes, "or this story will have a
far from peaceful effect immediately. ' '
"All I can say in reply, Bert, is to go and try it yourself.
The next day we passed through Lake Edmund, a widening of the
river, about a mile long by a half mile wide. The inlet of this is
the continuation of the river, but is much smaller than below.
Within a few miles we found not less than six fresh bear tracks
where they had crossed, but did not see any bear. Shortly after
noon we left the river and made a four-mile portage. Iu the midst
of this we found an Indian winter camp, and upon the trees sur
rounding a quantity of bear and beaver skulls."
" Jack wanted one of the latter, but the Indians demurred.
'You take him, no luck.' As an explanation Patrick stated the

32 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
Indian belief to be that the spirit of every bear or beaver killed
must be propitiated, else no more would be killed. To this end
the heads are cleaned and placed on a tree, with a piece of tobacco
put in the mouth. I have often seen the skulls, but never any
signs of the tobacco. I fear Indian cupidity for this article out
weighs superstitious fear.
" A short distance beyond the catqp we came to what is called
'Les Jardins.' Here are hundreds of acres covered with a white
species of moss about three inches high, and perfectly dry to the
taste. It is the favorite food of both moose and caribou. No
underbrush and but few trees grow in it, so that one can see a long
distance. It was not our good fortune to see any siich large game,
however. We speiit another day crossing several small lakes, with
portages between, in all of which we had fine trout fishing. We
also secured quite a number of black ducks and spruce partridges.
At the end of the third day we reached the Croche River, where
we spent several days fishing it and its tributaries. These waters
were fairly alive with trout, and we were well repaid for our trip in
consfequence. The Croche River flows into the St. Maurice, which
empties in turn into the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers. One could
continue down to the St. Maurice and then up that river. It leads
to an unknown section of country, where the possibilities for hunt
ing and fishing are not only unlimited but impossible to appreciate.
We spent two weeks on this trip, and I consider it one of the most
pleasant and successful that I have ever taken. Now, I trust, Bert,
this has been ' peaceful ' enough for you."
"It would have been had you not spoiled it by that 'rough'
fish story that you attributed to the judge."

Fifth Falls, Mistassini River.

CHAPTER VII.
The Ashuapmouchouan — Lac-X-Jim — Fifth Falls
Mistassini River.
" If you want to take a trip, Bert, that will give you all varieties
of scenery, all varieties of water, and all varieties of fish, with the
possibility of some good shooting added, figure on about two weeks
away from the hotel. Go up the Ashuapmouchouan River, thence
by a series of rivers and lakes cross over to the Mistassini, thence
back to Lake St. John. ' '
"I suppose, of course, there is to be found any quantity of
those miniature Niagaras, " Bert answers, " that serve to keep one's
nerves on edge and half on end ? ' '
"Yes, indeed; any quantity. Without them, however, you
would not have ouananiche pools, and, naturally, but poor fishing.
Then, too, rapids add that spice to the trip that makes it especially
grand and enjoyable. Of course, the element of danger is there —
so there is in any journey one may undertake — no more. Your
canoemen are educated to handle the birch-bark craft from infancy,
and their management is perfection. They know every foot of the
rapids perfectly, and when high water or aught else increases the
element of danger then they will not run you through yiem.
Rapids unknown to them they will not attempt to shoot, unless
they are very easy, or, by first studying them carefully, find they
can do so safely. If danger is possible from any cause they will
request you to make a portage around, while alone they will make
the run with the baggage. By remembering this, as well as the
fact that they, too, value their lives as highly as do you, and
especially noticing their expertness, one soon gains full confidence,
all idea of fear disappears, and the running of rapids becomes
niost enjoyable."
"Perhaps you are right, Mac ; but I need more experience to
feel as you do. But how about that trip you just mentioned ? "

34 a tale of lake ST. JOHN.
"Well, Jack and I made this trip also, and spent two weeks
doing it. The start is made up the Ashuapmouchouan, which can
be made by canoe all the way — by chartering the " Undine," which
will take you to the first falls near St. Felicien — or by driving from
the hotel around the head of the lake over a good road, and then
over a bad one to the head or the first falls. The latter is the
favorite, as it shortens the trip materially — a day and a half at
least — as some of the first portages are long and hard to make.
This 'Rivervwhere-they-watch-for-the-moose' is as rough or rougher
than the Peribonca. In places the current is more swift and the
progress slow. There are two or three more portages around falls
and a long lake-like stretch of water from the fourth falls (the
Chute-a-1'Ours) to where the river is finally left. This takes a good
hard day's work to cover. One must go prepared for a good big
number of portages, and some hard ones, on this trip ; therefore
go prepared as light as possible. Jack said : ' All we did for two
days after we left that river with the long name was to walk much,
ride little, and jump out of the canoe for another portage just as
we sat down in it." Ponds, lakes and connecting streams are
plentiful but small. Lake Brochet is the largest — about two miles
long — and here we camped, as we were not in a hurry and wanted
to get some of the great brochet and Aot€ the lake holds. Of
course they are caught trolling, and one's spoon hardly gets out
the length of the line before it is viciously taken. Jack remarked :
' We could have caught a million, but, not caring to have our
spoons all demolished, we stopped at a small fraction of one per
cent., practically all of which we threw back, as we could not
use them.' "
" How much did that fraction amount to, and how large were
they ? " Bert asks, incredulously.
" My recollection is we took about twenty, and nothing above
eight or ten pounds. Please, do not question my fish stories, Bert ;
I am trying to keep them within the bounds of reason. I don't
want to be called a ' fish prevaricator ' in advance. Then next we
struck a little creek so narrow that the alders on each side fairly
interlaced overhead. The guides stated that there was water
enough for the canoes, and that we would go down it some five or

A Four-hours' Catch of Ouananiche. — Net, eighteen inches in diameter.

a Tale OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 35
six miles. It was a perfect ' sheol ' hole for black flies. Between
fighting them and trying to preserve one's eyesight and skin from
the scraping of the bushes fairly exhausted us. Jack has always
claimed the branches smoothly wore off a three day's growth of
beard. That part of the trip is like the road to Lac de Belle
Riviere, only worse. With this and a two and a half mile portage
through a burned clearing left behind, we reached Lac-a-Jim.
This lake, named from an old Indian who formerly made it his
hunting grounds— happy ones, I hope— is fully eight miles long,
and a mighty handsome sheet of water. We remained in. camp
here two days, and, while we had no luck at all with our flies, we
had most splendid success trolling. We took five kinds of fish —
ouananiche, brochet, dor^, lake trout and brook trout. Numbers
and size I have forgotten now, but both were very large.
" We soon tired of the fishing, and, cutting our visit short, we
started down the outlet — the Wassiemska — to the Mistassini River,
into which it empties. This is a great river to run rapids in, and
would not suit you, feeling as you do now. Really I believe its
whole course is just one long rapid. I do not recall much, if any,
smooth water. There were a number of portages, too, that delayed
us. We entered the Mistassini at the tenth falls. With a rapid
current and short portages around the four chutes intervening, we
reached our Mecca — the fifth falls. With one exception, I have
had more satisfying ouananiche fishing at that point than at any
other place, and have visited it .several times in consequence.
"The falls are about four hundred feet long and sheer thirty
feet high. On the east is a small wooded island, and then a nar
rower fall, perhaps fifteen feet wide, broken into three jumps, the
lower one twelve or fourteen feet clear. The large fall being im
passable, the smaller one forms a natural fish-way, and it is here
the fish ascend. Camp is always pitched on the island — a most
delightful, cool place, and absolutely free from mosquitoes and
hlack flies. Aside from the fishing, it is a most picturesque spot to
camp on, and the distant roar of the falls is a charming additional
attraction. "I believe the most successful fishing is to be had here, begin
ning about the first to the middle of July and continuing well

36 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
through the month of August. In the rough water at the foot of
the main falls, about the patches of foam or brou in the wide bay
just below, and especially at the foot of the smaller falls, is the
best fishing to be had. Here, as well as elsewhere, the fish have
off days, but with a stay of a. few days you will secure satisfying
sport. The fish average quite large and are lusty fighters, since
only large and strong fish can ascend the various falls on the river.
I counted no less than twenty-seven ouananiche ascend the lower
jump of the smaller falls in an hour. As I said, it is twelve or
fourteen feet high, and the fish would ascend in the very middle of
the falling water. Occasionally they would fail and fall back, only
to try again. The ouananiche have a hard time between being
attacked by brochet and being dashed against the rocks. I have
taken many on the rivers not only with old scars, but also with
large, gaping, fresh wounds from both causes.
"Between the second and lower jump of the small falls is
quite a deep pool in the rock§, perhaps twelve feet wide and
twenty feet long, concerning which I can relate a true fish story,
in which the other fellow figured. So many fish were jumping the
falls that day, which I noticed while fishing at the foot, I advised
Jack to try his flies in the pool, and see if he could take one there,
where they would naturally rest. He had been casting but a few
moments, when a shout indicated a fish. Anxious to see his suc
cess in such a confined space, I turned my rod over to my guide
and scrambled up the rocks to see the fun. Truly he was having a
lively time, and with a large fish, as we could see when it jumped
from the water. There was no holding him as he darted here and
there. Suddenly he went over the falls into the river below.
Jack let his reel run free, and said something strong, I fear,
although the roar of the water made it sound indistinct. There he
stood, with a blank look on his face, gripping his rod and the line
jumping here and there on the brink of the falls. I doubt if more
than one or two minutes had elapsed when his fish jumped up the
falls and again thrashed about the pool. It was about exhausted
with its high and lofty tumbling, and was soon brought to net. I
recall its weight was nearly five pounds. Jack bore his honors
meekly, and retired for an hour or two to rest his shattered nerves."

a.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 37
Pausing after this effort, Bert interposed : " Had you not better
stop there for the night? I desire to sleep without a nightmare
that such stories will surely bring on. The judge's story was bad
¦ enough ; but this one — phew ! what will the next one be ? "
"Just the same, Bert, this is fact, not fable," I replied ; "and
it in reality happened— you have my word for that. As I have
nearly finished, I will conclude and avoid any further distressing
stories, to-night at least. I have always had my best fishing at the
fifth falls on rainy or threatening, dark days, and in fishing from
the rocks. I believe the moving about of canoes there disturbs the
fish greatly. " I neglected to state that all of the trip I have described
affords splendid duck and partridge, shooting, and is a great local
ity for bear. A number have been shot in the past few years at
different points.
"With regret we left our camp about 8 A. M. one morning, and
started for Roberval. The first four portages on the Mistassini are
all within a distance of six miles below the fifth falls. All are
short, sharp and impassable. To ascend occupies two hours or a
little more — to descend, less than half that time. Between the
second and third falls the River Rat flows in. The guides advise
me it is the outlet of a large lake of the same name, but a long
distance up, and a bad river to canoe on. I do not know of anyone
ever going up there. A short distance below the first falls the
Au Foin or Mistassibi River flows in. It is apparently quite a large
stream, and, I am advised, furnishes good ouananiche fishing at its
various falls. I do not know of any sportsmen having gone up this
river either. A short distance up the austere Trappist monks have
a monastery, with quite a little settlement about them. It is well
worthy a visit. As it was not steamer day, we started to make the
trip down the river and across the lake in our canoes — a distance
of about thirty-five miles. The river to the lake— twenty miles —
is very swift, and as we had a good wind blowing down the river,
we made wonderful speed. We tried a blanket sail that aided us
materially. Such a sail is easily made, and is absolutely safe.
Two poles about six feet long are placed V-shape in the bow of the
canoe and held in place by the bow guide's feet. A corner of the

38 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
blanket is tightly tied to the top of each pole, which spreads it to
its full width. To the lower corners strings are attached, which
the guide holds, one in each hand. In case of a squall or sudden
hard blow, the strings are released and the feet removed from the
poles and the whole thing collapses in a moment. So rapid was
our progress, with paddle, current and sail aiding, that, with a
short stop for lunch included, we made the twenty miles down the
river in less than three hours, and then covered the fourteen or
fifteen miles across the lake to Roberval, reaching there about
4'P. M."I can only add, Bert, if you cannot make the round trip
through Lac-a-Jim, do not fail to go up to the fifth falls of the
Mistassini, above all."
' ' All the trips you describe are so satisfactory in every way, ' '
Bert replies, "I don't know which to take first. I think I will
draw lots to decide. But with a limited vacation season each year,
I fear it will take a decade to made them all. What are you going
to describe to-morrow night? "
' ' I think my favorite trip — that on the Metabetchouan River.' '
' ' Any fish stories ? " Bert asks, with a yawn.
"Yes ; big ones, as far as number and size are concerned."

CHAPTER VIII.
The Metabetchouan.
"The Metabetchouan River, with its length of about sixty or
seventy miles, affords unlimited fishing to two large clubs— the
Amabalish and, Philadelphia Fish and Game Clubs, who lease the
river, with the exception of the first eight or ten miles, which are
controlled by Mr. Beemer for the guests of the Roberval. As soon
as the ice goes out in the spring, magnificent ouananiche fishing is
had in the mouth of the river where it flows into Lake St. John.
From then until mid-August but few fish are taken. Following
that time until the season closes, September 15th, superb fishing
can be had at the first, second and third pools, located some eight
miles up the river. Just above the third pool is a succession of
falls, one being fully thirty feet high, which is, of course, im
passable for ouananiche. The three pools are natural spawning-
beds that the fish seek, and are held there from ascending further
by the falls. Of late years I have always fished them just before
the close of the season, and have taken more and larger fish than
at any other point. Added to this that the location is in the midst
of the grandest piece of mountain scenery to be found, makes it
simply an ideal, perfect fishing place."
"How do you reach these pools?" Bert interruB,ts. -"More
rough canoe work ? I firmly believe if the officers of the accident
insurance company that I have a policy in should see some of the
canoe-through-rapids trips I am taking, they would cancel it at
once." "You need not worry, Bert; this trip is perfectly harmless.
It can be made in two ways. From the Metabetchouan bridge
station on the railroad you can go up the river by canoe three
miles to the foot of the rapids, and then portage five miles over the
rocks. This is too tough a trip for me, so I prefer the other route '
for this and other reasons. Go to St. Jerome from Roberval, and

40 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
get our friend Gauthier, who drove us to Belle Riviere, to drivfe
this trip. Five miles of it are over the Belle Riviere road, then a
turn to the right. Five miles more brings you to a turn out
through the woods, finally leading to a clearing containing a very
comfortable log-house. It is the property of an old fellow named
Harvey, whose house was passed some two miles back, and whose
permission is obtained to occupy it for une piastre per day.
"Last year Jack and a friend of his both made the trip with
me, and they were delighted with the quarters. A good stove and
two beds made everything comfortable. The river is just half a
mile away, and cannot be seen until the high rocky banks are
reached. You suddenly emerge from a little patch of woods, and
below you is as grand a scene as can be found in any country.
The river flows through an immense cleft in the rocks fully eight
hundred to one thousand feet below ; and what a climb it is down
the rocks ! I won't attempt to describe what it is climbing up
again ; I always lose my breath just thinking of it.
"Reaching the river, which seems walled in on all sides by
mountains, an old flat-bottotned boat takes you to an island in the
centre of the gorge. My companions both forgot that they had
come to fish; they simply stood, looked and wondered "where
they were at." The transition from woods and clearing to a wild
canon and rushing river, in the midst of magnificent mountains,
was so sudden as to be almost supernatural. One can cast success
fully all about the island, with, perhaps, the best success at the
head. The fish average Targe, from three to five pounds, and are
very plentji, especially during the last week of the open season.
"Jack claims the ouananiche fight harder here than at any
other place, not excepting the Grande Ddcharge. Be that as it
may, one requires much time to rest his wrist after taking two or
three fish. At night we made the killing climb up the mountain,
and enjoyed a much needed rest at the cabin.
"I neglected to state that all one requires on this trip is the
service of one man. He can cook, paddle you to the island, net
jfish, and especially paddle you about the second pool, that must
he fished from a boat. Maurice Boivin, of Metabetchouan Bridge,
Mr. Beemer's guardian for the river, I have always taken, and

H

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 41
found him most excellent. He knows just where the fish lie, and
speaks a little English."
"That would please me," Bert again interrupts; " I am dis
gusted with hearing nothing but French jargon jabbered all the
time, that I cannot understand a word of. I can only talk to my
men with my hands, and the more I attempt that the less they
understand me. All I hear continually repeated is 'Sais pas.' "
"Jack and his friend went to the second pool the following
day, and I went alone to the third again. Jack's description of the
day was very good. ' First, the descent to the river is gradual and
very easy ; that we appreciated. We found a flat-bottomed scow
built of slabs. It was simply nailed together, not caulked at all.
With three of us in it, one had to bail every moment. We fished
the lower end of the pool, and Boivin would take us close to the
big rapid at the foot, as we thought into the danger point, but as
we always caught fish just there, we forgot the danger. Anyhow
we came out all right. The pool seemed fairly filled with fish ; we
counted over fifty jump while taking our lunch at noon. While
not quite as wild as the third pool, the scenery is grand. With
something better than a clumsy, leaky old scow to fish from, one
could be comfortable and save more fish, as you could then easily
follow up the long runs that some of them make. We walked
about a half mile down the rocks to the first pool. It is a wild,
uncanny sort of place, that must be fished from the rocks, which
often give a precarious foothold.'
" We remained until the last day of the season, and had splen
did success. When we came to leave we had an amusing time
settling up with old Harvey. As Jack and his friend did not speak
French, the settlement was left to me. The dollar a day for use of
the log-cabin was all O. K., but quite a string of extras was added.
One for crossing his land, one for a little hay eaten by Gauthier's
horses, and one for a few potatoes we had used from a little patch
in the clearing. Knowing the old fellow's liking for whiskey,
and having had the same trouble iri settling before, I tried old
methods. As each claim came up, I would take Harvey into the
cabin, and fill a glass with a generous portion of whiskey and hand
it to him, remarking : 'Pour le chemin ' — 'Pour lefoin ' — 'Pour les

42 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
palates. ' Between his desire for the drinks and avarice he hesi
tated but a moment ; the desire was paramount, and in each
instance he replied, ' Oui, M' sieur.'
" The old man and his wife always come over to the cabin, if
anyone is stopping there, and keep it in perfect condition — make
the beds, wash, the dishes, clean out and cut wood. It is a most
comfortable place to stop, and is well located to reach the three
pools. "This past year Mr. Beemer closed these pools, allowing no
fishing, as he desired all the ouananiche that could be taken for
the hatchery. His intentions are hereafter, I believe, to reserve
the third pool only, and leave the others open to guests as
heretofore."

Falls and Ouananiche Pool, Metabetchouan River,

CHAPTER IX.
OTHER Trips to be Taken.
' ' What other trips can be made that will afford plenty of
fishing and shooting?" Bert asked one evening, after we had had
our usual successful day's sport.
" I will have to answer that as your guides do your questions :
'fe ne sais pas. ' Really I do not know. I can tell you of a num
ber, but it would take too much time in which to recount them.
Those that you and I have made, and the others I have told you
of, have always been so satisfactory to me, that I have often
repeated them rather than seek out new ones. In season, which
for all birds, moose and caribou opens September ist, except for
ducks on September 15th, almost any trip will afford a possible
chance fo secure some of them, especially south of Lake St. John,
where large game abounds. During the summer one must seek
fishing only, unless a bear is expected to be met with, which often
occurs. That, of course, can be shot aud secured, or shot at and
secured — which latter also often occurs. You know, Bert, the old
saying, ' What strange things one sees when he does not have a
gun.' It is especially true in this country, and a rifle is a good
thing to carry along.
"In relating my trips, I have mentioned many additional or
side ones that could be taken as well. You will recall, also, when
we first reached the lake, that I stated trips could be made from
one day to weeks and months in extent. Such, for instance, as a
day's trip trout fishing on the Ouiatchouaniche, a day for ouana
niche on the Grande Decharge, or two months and a half to Rupert
House, James Bay, and return. For trips lasting one, two or
three weeks, there are fully fifty that can be easily made within
the limit, and all affording grand sport. Three-quarters of them
could be well named voyages of discovery, as, aside from the
guides, no one has ever made them. It would be very simple to
find' lakes and rivers new even to the Indians themselves. A trip

44 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
can be planned in a few moments, almost at random, and always
prove satisfactory. ^
"By ascending either of the three great rivers— the Ashuap
mouchouan, Mistassini or Peribonca — any one of their numerous
tributaries can be taken and followed up. As, practically; all of
them are of considerable size, each naturally drains a very large
area and is the outlet of several lakes. Each lake, in turn, has one
or more inlets that come from still other lakes. Practically all of
these are virgin, unexplored. Just imagine the magnificent fishing
awaiting the seeker ! Nor is there any trouble whatever to make"
any of the trips. One cannolf get lost, the Indian guides are too
expert and know the general lay of the country too well. You
know, Bert, one can always retrace his route if necessary."
" Have none of these tributary rivers been explored by sports
men?" Bert asks. "It does not seem possible, with the large
number who have visited Lake St. John, that these have been
overlooked." " Possibly some that enter the larger rivers near their mouth
have been ascended some little distance, but not explored com
pletely. Such rivers as the Little Peribonca, Aleck, Au Foin, or
Rat, have probably been ascended in part, but those entering'above
have not. It would take several ordinary trips to any of these
tributary rivers to obtain an understanding regarding them.
"The number of lakes and rivers within the watershed of Lake
St. John and emptying into it will never be known ; it is very
great. An area of one hundred thousand square miles does not
encompass them. This, by the way, is about the area controlled
by Mr. Beemer in his lease from the Government, and all of which
is open to guests of the Hotel Roberval. Don't you think, Bert,
that it is ample to accommodate all the sportsmen from the States,
and furnish them magnificent sport? "
" There is no question about that, Mac ; but many of the trips
are too difficult for the average sportsman ; there is too much hard
work and roughing it about them."
"You are correct, Bert; but to many that adds to sport and
makes it more enjoyable. Good fishing, hard to obtain, is always
best appreciated. However, I am able to state that Mr. Beemer

3
O
O

CC

O

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 45
intends, in the near future, to remove some of the hardships and
difficulties. His idea is to locate two or three comfortable branch
hotels, somewhat similar to the Island House, at convenient points
on the three large rivers. Access to them will be made as easy as
possible. Here, in the midst of the wilderness, with all kinds of
fishing about him, the sportsman can locate comfortably and make
short or long trips, as he may desire. This will make it possible
for many more of the now unknown waters to be found and fished
that otherwise could not be, except by the favored few who have
unlimited time to devote to sport. Where is there any such pre
serve in the world, where one can fish without the expense of a
special license or paying for the privilege ? One who is a guest of
the Hotel Roberval finds it all open before him to go where he
pleases ; provided, of course, that guides, canoes, camping outfit
and provisions are secured from the Roberval Hotel."
" But how about the present law in the Province of Quebec, by
which Americans are compelled to pay thirty-five dollars for a
first-class license to fish and hunt ? That, I understand, is in full
force, and must be taken sut yearly. Even in the case of members
of any of the fishing clubs, I understand, they must pay half the
amount— fifteen dollars."
"That is all true what you state, Bert ; but it does not apply
in any way to Lake St. John, or rather Mr. Beemer's preserve
surrounding it. Absolutely no license of any kind is needed.
"There is nothing lazy in the make-up of any of the guides in
this country. They are always ready and willing to go — no dis
tance seems too far, and no pack too heavy for them to carry.
Above all, they are absolutely honest. Even whisky, with their
innate love for it, they will never take unless offered to them.
They try to anticipate your wants, and are on watch constantly to
be of assistance.
"It is a difficult matter, Bert, to do any sort of justice to the
subject of what trips one can take in this country. One can treat
of it in a general way only. Most of those that I have made myself
I have described to you with more or less detail. The others, I
have just told you about how much is known concerning them. I
can only add — and I think you will agree with me — that this is the

46 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
finest country for the sportsman extant. Here fish can always be
caught, and plenty of them. Those who desire to explore entirely
unknown country, and absolutely 'rough it,' can do so to their
heart's content; The only limit is time and endurance."
"How little, comparatively speaking, this country and its
possibilities for sport are known in the States," Bert interposes.
' ' It does seem to me as though the yearly rush of sportsmen would
be tremendous. Nearly everyone is a sportsman now, you know."
"The inrush of sportsmen now, Bert, is very large, and is
destined to increase many fold. However, there is room for all,
and to spare."

CHAPTER X.
The JIatchery.
Bert and I had found such splendid success on our fishing trips
that we had taken a longer vacatiori>-time than we had counted on
in the beginning. Naturally we were anxious to start for home,
but the desire to see Mr. Beemer's latest enterprise — the hatchery —
proved too strong, and we decided to remain over a day to visit it.
Incidentally, I can say we did not regret our decision. A beautiful
drive of five miles through the quaint old village of Roberval, and
over a gradually ascending road giving a magnificent view of Lake
St. John, brought us to the hatchery. The building is located a
short distance back from the road, completely hidden in the hills,
that afford it ample protection from the cold lake winds in winter.
We were met by the superintendent, and, thanks to his atten
tion, learned all pertaining to the hatchery and raising of fish.
"We have," he advised us, "thousands of trout, salmon and
ouananiche in various stages of development, from fry to finger-
lings, and we are most successful in raising them. At present we
shall not raise many trout, but confine ourselves principally to
ouananiche and salmon. We have every facility, and expect to
raise immense numbers each year. Our water is the coldest and
purest I have ever seen in any hatchery, and the supply more than
ample. We have dammed the stream just below, and have a fine
pond, in which we are placing the ouananiche as rapidly as we
secure them."
Leading the way to the pond, the superintendent took a pole,
with a long piece of fine wire attached, to the end of which he fas
tened a grasshopper, and cast it out on the water. In a moment
two or three hungry ouananiche made a dash and jump for the
bait, and each cast was a repetition of this. It was a sight that
made one's fishing blood tingle, and I did not blame Bert when he
said : "Just let me put a fly on the end of that wire. If I could

48 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
play one of those big fellows, I think I could rest content." It
was as' tantalizing as anything that ever Tantalus had to undergo.
The superintendent stated he expected to have fully two hundred
fish in the pond when the spawning time arrived, which was about
November 15th.
The hatchery is a two-storey building, about twenty feet by fifty
feet, the lower floor being completely filled with hatching and
breeding boxes. The water from the brook flows into the upper
floor, and, rushing through open troughs, is led by a separate pipe
to each box below. A check valve on each pipe controls the force
of the water required. The boxes are about four feet long and are
arranged in pairs. They are placed end to end, one below the
other, the lower receiving the water from the upper. We found all
the boxes filled with fish ranging from one inch long to fingerlings
of three or four inches. Careful examination failed to discover a
single dead fish. The rapid flow of water and the cleanable
screens prevent the lodging of any impurities in the boxes.
Mashed liver is fed the fish regularly about every two hours, and
all particles not taken lodge against the outlet screens, which are
quickly removed and cleaned.
Both to Bert and myself it was a surprise to find such a quantity
of salmon {salmo salar) being raised, and we asked an explanation
from the superintendent.
"Mr. Beemer," he replied, "is not only anxious to improve
the ouananiche fishing by artificially propagating these fish, but is
particularly desirous to afford anglers salmon fishing as well. What
few rivers there are in Canada that contain salmon are all under
lease, restricting the fishing to a few owners and guests. We
believe, and with good reason, that we can place the young salmon
in Lake St. John, and in a few years afford fine salmon fishing.
By means of the Grande Decharge, whose rapids are not impass
able for them, and the Saguenay, they can reach the St. Lawrence
and the sea. The greater majority, following their natural instinct,
will doubtless do so, but we hope they will return here each year
to spawn. It is a peculiarity of the salmon that .they always return
to the same river where they were hatched and bred. Some of
them will remain here permanently, beyond question, not seeking

Portaging the Canoe.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 4g
the sea. Thus we will have two chances of having the fish and
fishing. The same experiment has been tried by the Maine fish
commission in that state for several years, and very successfully.
They have many fish that have never gone to the sea, and have
taken some of twelve pounds and over. We shall be equally
successful here."
"From my experience," Bert here remarked, " I consider the
ouananiche a sufficient attraction to draw me to this country. When
that fishing increases from your propagation, I cannot see room for
a desire for anything else. "
"Others are not as readily satisfied. With some, trout fishing
is too tame, and, after a day or two, either ouananiche or salmon
fishing palls upon them. But with all kinds of fishing to be had,
satisfaction must ensue. What Mr. Beemer aims to do is to make
the Lake St. John country afford the finest fresh-water fishing in
the world, and I do not question but that he will succeed."
"There can be no question," I replied, "that success will
immediately follow his efforts. Salmon fishing, once established,
will vie with the ouananiche as a drawing attraction. There is one
thing certain, Mr. Beemer can claim that he has the only ouananiche
fishing in the world."
"That is true," the superintendent interrupts, "and he pur
poses keeping it. He has already been offered large amounts for
fry and spawn, but will never let any go."
" Here the ouananiche is a dweller is rapid waters, rarely
exceeding seven or eight pounds in weight, and then only by a
pound or two ; whereas its cousin of the States, that they are now
beginning to call ouananiche also, is a dead-water fish, grows to
twenty and even twenty-five pounds weight, and lacks much of the
fighting powers of the Lake St. John fish. Environment has had
much to do with it, but the primitive ancestors of both were pro
bably the same. The true ouananiche has become the gamest
fresh-water fish, the other has degenerated to second cousinship.
Do you not agree with me? " I asked, as I concluded.
" I do fully. I have caught both kinds, and there is but little
comparison. I shall take fish only from the very roughest waters
from which to secure spawn, and shall not allow the fish to

50 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
deteriorate in any way. We shall raise as many fish as our quar
ters will allow, so that the fishing, instead of decreasing, will
constantly improve."
" Where do you secure your salmon spawn ? " Bert asks.
"From the Government salmon-hatchery at Tadousac, at the
mouth of the Saguenay. The Government will allow us any quan
tity we may desire. We shall raise and plant as many as possible
of these fish as well. I have had much to contend with in getting
the hatchery under successful headway, as we are so far removed
from the base of supplies. Everything is running smoothly now,
and next year we will run to our fullest capacity. Our facilities
for transporting the ouananiche from the pools where they vfere
caught here were very crude, but we lost few fish. My plans are
made to perfect this another year.
" From my experience, I believe the establishing of this hatch
ery was the one thing to be done to make sure the future success
of the fishing at Lake St. John. Waters can be overfished, and
these would be no exception, with the increasing crowds of visiting
fishermen each year. In a short time the fish would become
depleted and the attraction would be gone. Now it must increase
and afford better sport than ever before. With the added attraction
of salmon fishing, I doubt if anyone will ever want to go anywhere
else. The hatchery itself will prove a wonderful attraction to
visitors. It will be the main point of interest."
I had intended driving to the Ouiatchouan Falls, two miles
distant from the hatchery, but the hour was so late it was impos
sible. "You will have to content yourself, Bert," I remarked,
" with the distant view you have had of them from the train and
the boat. They are well worthy of a special visit, though. They
are between two hundred and fifty and two hundred and seventy
feet high, and a large body of water falls in a beautiful sheet, par
tially broken at two or three points in the descent. Good-sized
trout are often taken in the pool below the falls, and when the ice
goes out in the spring magnificent ouananiche fishing can be had
where the river flows into the lake."
"All one requires in this country is time, nothing but time,"
Bert wails. "If one had three ,,hundred and sixty-five days to

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 5!
Spend in this wilderness, on the three hundreth and sixty-sixth
day he would find some other place that he wanted to go to badly,
and would know he was just beginning to see a little of this
immense territory. I cannot content myself with the thought of
going home, and seeing those ouananiche in the pond has made
me desire to go back to the Decharge and catch more. But,
seriously, Mac, it is a wise act on Mr. Beemer's part to establish
that hatchery. The expense must have been great, too. His out
lay of money in this country must be immense ; and when the
country and, sport become thoroughly known to American sports
men, they will seek it in crowds."
"That is certainly true, Bert ; I know that his outlay in this
country exceeds three hundred thousand dollars. Everything for
comfort has been done, and now everything to preserve and im
prove the fishing is being undertaken. Sportsmen will learn of,
seek, and appreciate it. You can see that there is room for all, and
to spare. I am very glad that we remained over to see the hatchery,
as it has not only given us a perfect idea of the hatching and raising
of fish, but shows us that future fine fishing, and the future of the
ouananiche, is assured fully. It was an undertaking requiring
nerve to open this country at such a great expense, and it was
looked upon as a veritable Mulberry Seller's scheme. Its success
is now more than assured ; and it is a tenet of my faith that the
last expense — the hatchery — is the greatest improvement of all, and,
beyond question, assures success in return for the great outlay. It
will certainly prove to be a great attraction, also, to sportsmen and
guests of the hotel alike, and forms the greatest addition to the
large list of attractions here."

Chapter XI.
The Saguenay.
No matter how many times it may be made, one can never tire
of the Saguenay river route from Chicoutimi to Tadousac, and
thence up the broad St. Lawrence to Quebec. While the entire
trip from Roberval, including the initial rail journey, the uncertain
delay at Chicoutimi, and the boat trip from there, occupies two
nights and a day ; no matter how much one may be pressed for
time, it is the mistake of a lifetime not to make it. There is
absolutely no exaggeration contained in the statement that there
is not a steamboat trip to be found elsewhere that can, in full
measure, favorably compare with the seventy miles of indescribable
grandeur of scenery bordering the mysterious Saguenay. Bert
accepted my advice to return that way, especially from having a
desire to see the Government salmon-hatchery at Tadousac. At
7.30 p. m. we bade good-bye to Roberval, and were en route for
Chicoutimi. The journey occupied something over two hours, our
destination being reached before 10 p. m.
Chicoutimi is well worthy of a stop-over for a day or more,
offering much of interest to the visitor. Formerly the hotel
accommodations were very poor, but, fortunately, a new modern
hotel — the Chateau Saguenay — has recently been built, that is a
model hostelry in every way. It is reached by a flight of steps
from the train. Here we are to remain for the night, or for such
portion of it as the fa,tes, or rather the tide, decrees.
The tide at Chicoutimi, the head of navigation on the Sague
nay, has very irregular hours for making its rise of nine feet. The
steamers must come and go with its flood, which may occur at any
hour from 3 a. m. until noon the next day. One will do well to
engage the hotel porter to secure staterooms on the boat, at once
upon its arrival, as reservations cannot be made in advance.
Bert and I left at 6 A. M., a fairly respectable hour. We were
fortunate in that it was the " Carolina's" trip, she being the best
of the fleet, .although the others, even the old "Saguenay," are
very comfortable.

Island House, Grande Decharge.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 53
A few miles below Chicoutimi the wonderful sceuery of the
river first comes into view ; therefore, breakfast should be gotten
early, in order that none of it may be unseen. Within half an
hour after starting, two immense mountains, located on either side
of the river, dimly appear in the distance. In answer to Bert's
inquiry, I informed him that they were, respectively. Capes East
aud West ; the latter guarding the entrance to Ha ! Ha ! Bay,
which opens out from the river twelve miles below Chicoutimi.
If the tide is late, the trip up this bay is made coming up ; if
early, on the return. Nine miles up, the little town of St.
Alphonse is at the head of the bay, where enter two little salmon
rivers — the Ha ! Ha ! and Mars. Both are under lease to the
Messrs. Price, the lumber kings of this region.
After our picturesque trip up the bay, we are again in the
river, and the number of high, rugged and grand masses of moun
tains, on either side, increases rapidly. Some six or eight miles
below, a notable piece of Nature's handiwork is seen. Located on
the south shore is a sheer precipice of rock ascending directly from
the water to a height of, apparently, six or seven hundred feet.
Viewed from a distance, it seems absolutely vertical and smooth.
Appropriately, it is named " Le Tableau " (the picture).
Fortune had favored us with a beautiful day and clear atmos
phere, enabling us to see everything distinctly. Bert kept his eyes
roving constantly, missing nothing. Every rock a trifle higher
than its neighbor, he claimed, must, properly, have a name, and
plied me with incessant questions as to what the names were.
Desiring to satisfy his curiosity in some way, I applied any peculiar
French name that came to raind, followed by some odd translation
that I could conjure up on the moment. I can still recall his
remark, "The French people can dig up the most peculiar and
unsuitable names imaginable."
Now, in the distance, can be seen two immense mountains
rearing themselves high above all others. So magnificent is the
sight that with our gradual approach, which brings each new
detail into view; one wishes the boat would stop and permit the
-eye to feast upon it from that one spot. These are the wonderful
Capes Trinity and Eternity. How fittingly both are named— the

'54 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
former, three immense rounded peaks, apparently separated, yet
all one. Nothing that Nature has made, that eye can see, could
more appropriately be named in cotnmemoration of the Divine
Trinity. Nearly two thousand feet this great mountain rises, with
fully one thousand feet absolutely sheer from the water — grand in
its superb mightiness, grand in its solitude, awe-inspiring that its
foot is washed by the waters in the mysterious depths two thou
sand feet below. High upon the terraced summit has been placed,
emblematically and appropriately, a cross, fifty feet high, yet
so far above is it that it does not appear more than a fraction of
that height. Closely the steamer approaches the wall of rock,
and, as compared with it, we are but a speck upon the waters.
With such awe-inspiring surroundings, one cannot but contrast
and think that the greatest monuments of man's handiwork and
the monuments erected by Nature would not compare even as
favorably as did our steamer with magnificent Trinity.
As we approach the precipitous sides and parallel them closely,
a large bucket of stones is placed on the deck for the passengers to
test their ability to hit a large mark. It seems so easy, you
naturally try, and you fall far short. The immense height of the
rock so near makes the distance deceptive. Apparently you are not
over one hundred feet distant, in reality you are several times that.
Rounding Cape Trinity, the steamer enters Eternity Bay, and
beside us stands Cape Eternity, grand yet sombre in its immensity.
One large mass of rock, with but little irregularity, it also rises
sheer from the immense depths. How far back into the past and
with what terpific convulsion of nature were these magnificent
mountains erected? Man cannot tell, nor can he know through
how many ages to come they will stand sentinel over the mys
terious river at their feet.
The steamer makes the circuit of the bay, and at frequent
intervals the whistle is blown to show the numerous echoes as the
sound reverbrates from mountain to mountain until lost. Fully
six or seven distinct repetitions of the sound are heard. We are
now about forty miles from the St. Lawrence, and, while the high
est mountains have been passed, the scenery of the balance of the
trip is grand in the extreme. It is one continuous succession of

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 55
rocky points and ipountain-surrounded bays about and through
which the river winds.
One naturally asks : is the Saguenay a river? Unfathomable
are its depths in many places, and but a few feet distant from the
base of Capes Trinity and Eternity a depth of over two thousand
feet has been found. So much deeper is it than the St. Lawrence,
that, it is stated, were that river to become dry the Saguenay
would still have two-thirds or more of its depth remaining. Some
great convulsion of Nature, that must have shaken the worid, cleft
the Laurentian mountains, hurling them apart, into which the
waters rushed. True, it has a current, and is the outlet of Lake
St. John ;¦ but could it not be as properly termed a lake or bay ?
Ten miles below Eternity Bay, the Little Saguenay enters
from the south, a river almost the counterpart of the larger in
point of magnificent scenery, and especially noted for its splendid
trout fishing. Two large islands are next passed, each ranging
from one and a half to two miles long. Then, twelve miles from
Tadousac, the noted salmon river, the Marguerite, enters from the
north. More towering mountains of rugged formation are passed ;
La Boule Point, that seems for a time to bar our further progress, is
left behind. Now can be seen the immense promontories, Pointe-
aux-Vaches and Pointe-aux-Bouleaux, that so fittingly stand sen
tinel over the Saguenay waters as they mingle with the St.
Lawrence. The steamer ties up at the wharf at Tadousac, which is located
on the north shore just at the point where the rivers join, and a
stop of two hours is usually made. But a few steps distant, in a
large natural basin in the rock connected with the river, is the
salmon-pool connected with the Government hatchery, and in
which the fish are kept until ripe for spawning. The tide is out,
Jeaving but four or five feet of clear water in the pool, permitting
the salmon to be distinctly seen. A large number of fish can
always be found swimming around and occasionally leaping from
the water. These have been secured by netting at Tarious points
on the lower St. Lawrence. Magnificent great fellows they are,
ranging from fifteen to twenty pounds to certainly fifty or sixty.
Bert finally said : " I would not hesitate to trangress every law and

56 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
Stand any punishment to be able to catch one of these big ones.
If I had a rod and cast, I think I would try at that." I could only
reply : " There are others, too, that feel as you do, Bert? "
I believe he would have stood there for hours had I not gotten
him away to see the hatchery. This is located but a short distance
up the road, but, unfortunately for us, was not in operation, as the
fish were not ripe for spawning. We went through the buildings,
however, and found them very completely fitted for the purpose ;
similar in many respects to the hatchery at Roberval, only on a
much larger scale.
From the hatchery we walked about half a mile to the village,
where I wanted to show Bert the site of the first church built in
Canada. The original Jesuit mission was built here in 1648, and -
the small building now standing in 1750. Visitors are shown parts
of the skull and coffin of the first missionary, which, it is^ claimed,
were found in taking down the original building. Tadousac was
first visited by Jacques Cartier as early as 1535.
I can only repeat, that no one who visits Lake St. John can
afford to miss the Saguenay route on the return to Quebec. Aside
from the unsurpassed scenery, the historical interest is engrossing,
since about here it was that the very earliest history of Quebec was
made. No one with sporting blood in his veins should miss seeing
the magnificent salmon — the king of all fish ; neither will one
have any regret travelling hundreds of miles to see this spot,
except that he cannot try his flies if only on one fish.
Leaving Tadousac, the steamer crosses the St. Lawrence —
which at this point is twenty-two miles wide — diagonally, a dis
tance of twenty-eight miles to Rivilre-du-Loup wharf, the landing-
place for the town of the same name as well as Cacouna, the great
Canadian watering-place, situated four miles-below.
The steamer had proceeded some distance when Bert asked :
"What are those round sand-hills we see so numerous about
Tadousac? They are very peculiar."
" An interesting answer can be given to your question, Bert.
They are called Mamelons, and the Montagnais Indian name for
them is Tadousac. Geologists claim that at one time they formed
the shore of the ocean, and were worn into their present shape as

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 57
the waters gradually receded. Nothing else could have made them
as they are, or could account for the sea-sand being there. About
them is woven the history of the Montagnais Indians, once the most
powerful tribe on the continent, now reduced in numbers to a few
hundred. They did much towards making Canadian history, and
wonderful and beautiful are their traditions. Their history is the
history of the Mamelons from time immemorial. Here hundreds
of generations of the tribe came and have passed away ; and when
final extinction comes, as it is fated it must, the history of the
Montagnais will not fade from memory while the countless sands
of the Mamelons remain one upon the other — their monument."
As is usual here in crossing the St. Lawrence, we saw a num
ber of grampus, seals and white porpoises. Some of them we
could easily have shot from the steamer. After a short stop at
Riviere-du-Loup, a two-hours' sail brought us to Murray Bay,
another well-known summer resort. . A stay of two hours enabled
us to view the magnificent new hotel and the large number of
beautiful cottages that make up the summer town. At lo o'clock
the boat started for its all-night trip to Quebec. Thoroughly tired
after our long day of sight-seeing, we gladly sought our berths for
needed rest. Arising early, we find we are just approaching grand,
old, historic Quebec — ^the Gibraltar of Canada. Quaint and old,
the city takes pride in its great antiquity. Modern only in her
public buildings, in the new residences in the outskirts, new city
gates, and the magnificent hotel, the ChSteau Frontenac; ancient in
the same narrow streets, the same little houses, the same ramparts,
walls and citadel, still remaining, that witnessed the defeats and
victories of Wolfe, Montcalm and Montgomery. Easily can the
visitor find much that will recall the earlier noted men in Canada's
infancy — Frontenac and Champlain.
The eager sportsman, en route to Lake St. John, is always in
too great a hurry to engage in his favorite sport to stop in Quebec
going ; but he makes a great mistake if he does not remain over a
day at least, returning. There is so much to see in and about the
city of more than passing interest, the day passes leaving much
unseen, and one departs with deep regret that more time was not
given to the stay in Quebec.

CHAPTER XII.
F^QUiPMENT Necessary.
"There is so much diversity of opinion now-a-days, Bert, in
reference to tackle, rods, guns, etc., that it is not well to under
take advising a sportsman what to take for use in the Lake St.
John country. Such advice provokes a discussion at once, ending
in both retaining their individual opinions, as is the result in talk
ing politics. When approached on the subject, I invariably reply
that I do not know, that I can only state what I prefer to use."
"You are entirely correct in that statement," Bert replied,
' ' and I agree with you in your ideas. I have never, in my expe
rience, seen so many fishermen, as I have met with on this trip
who should have had some advice in advance in regard to what
tackle to use. A man can strike and land a half-pound trout or a
three-pound ouananiche with an eighteen-foot, two-handed, heavy
salmon rod, and be content, from the fact that he has the fish ;
but the sport is lacking."
"Yes; and he can hook and play a heavy ouananiche or
salmon — possibly — with a four-ounce rod," I reply. "He has
sport, so much that it grows monotonous as he becomes exhausted.
He has the fish as a result — perhaps."
Bert and I talked over 4his subject thoroughly during our trip
down the Saguenay, and I can say that we agreed perfectly.
The question of rods is of paramount importance ; therefore,
it is best to state what the concensus of opinion of the majority of
ouananiche fishermen is, rather than to exploit individual ideas
and preferences. A split bamboo rod of fine — not cheap — make is
the favorite at long odds. Lancewood, greenheart or bethabara
have a very few advocates. Lightness compatible with strength
is first considered, while a suitable length for something over
medium distance casting — say nine and one-half or ten feet — is
correct. Individual preference properly governs the weight, but
it should not be below five and one-half nor exceed eight ounces.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. Sg
I have known two or three extremists who always use rods from
three and a half to four and a half ounces for ouananiche. It was
a constant struggle to save the rod, to save the fish, and to try and
save the wrist ; but, after playing a single one, the member in
question had to be laid up for repairs. The other extreme — too
heavy a rod — prohibits proper playing, and many fish are naturally
lost. To properly play snch a hard-fighting fish as is the ouananiche
a light, springy rod is absolutely necessary. These fish are most
frequently hooked lightly, rarely gorging the hook, as does the
trout or bass. In this respect they are much like their ancestor,
the salmon. As they usually take the fly in rough or foamy
water — ^their natural abiding place — the strike is not always seen,
and a good strike in return, to set the hook, cannot be made with
safety. The better chance for success lies in always considering
the fish to be lightly hooked. A light, springy rod aids much in
keeping the line taut, preventing slack, while the spring tires the
fish much more quickly. From five and a half to seven ounces -
are considered to be the best weights. The ouananiche is a tackle-
smashing fish, no matter how carefully handled ; therefore, two
or three rods, at least, should be included in one's equipment. A
modern way of carrying two rods in a small compass is to have
two second joints and four tips fitted to one butt ; breakage is
therefore provided for.
Bert says, " By all means recommend the automatic reel," and
I do. When the fish makes its furious run, every effort must be
made to avoid a slack line. One hand should be free to mani
pulate it and ease it when the fish jumps. This cannot be done
when one is engaged in turning a crank in a fruitless endeavor to
reel in the slack as fast as the fish gives it. The little finger of the
rod-hand releases the spring of the automatic reel, allowing it to
take slack as fast as given. The other hand is free to draw out a
yard or more of line when the fish is not running, and given and
taken in when it jumps, to keep the strain equal. Good, heavy,
six-foot loop trout-leaders are the best, but one must be sure that
they are good. An " E " enamelled silk line I believe to be abso
lutely the best kind and size to use. Another special advantage of

6o A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
this tackle I have described, and the flies I will mention, is that
all are equally adapted for trout fishing.
Just here I will quote a parody on some well-known lines that
I sprung upon Bert one evening, when we had seen some fisher
men casting small spoons and phantom minnows for ouananiche in
the Grande Decharge. It will illustrate what I wish to say.
" What bait do you use?" I ask of another
Who has a large catch, and my sport is slow.
" Flies only," he answers, " my angling brother;
There's no better bait, I'll swear, that I know."
"Best for sportsmanlike use," I say; "but, ah! when
You cast hours, no luck, what then?"
'Tis a thing I bate.
His lying' about bait.
When his flies were some cute little spoons.
There is nothing in the law to prohibit the use of spinners,
spoons, phantom minnows or lake, bait in fishing for ouananiche ;
- but there is an unwritten sportsman's law which would read ;
"Use flies, nothing else." One should by all means be supplied
with some large spoons and a troUing-line for pike-perch and
pike — but leave them behind when out for ouananiche. Give the
fish an equal chance — match skill and light tackle against game,
hard-fighting instinct. Supposing that four pounds of fish outwits
two hundred or more pounds of man, one feels much better than
to haul in a fish with both jaws locked together with a gang of
hooks that calls for an expenditure of time and cuss words to
unhook. One is sport — the other lacks even the first element of it.
Why not have a bell ring when the fish bites, then touch a button
and have an electric winch wind it in ; in the meantime read a
book — there will be no interruption in an exciting passage. True,-
when fish have an off day and won't take the fly, one is sorely
tempted to try a spoon. Resist the temptation, you will feel better
for it ; to-morrow they will take the fly.
In the matter of flies there is much diversity of opinion, not so
much, perhaps, as to kind, but more particularly as to the size best
adapted for ouananiche. Many will claim that large sizes, such as
Nos. I, 2 and 3, are the best ; still others advocate sizes all along

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 6l
from No. 5 to No. 8 ; the great majority, however, claiming— and
property, too— that Nos. 4, 5 and 6 are the most successful. After
twelve years' experience, I agree with the majority, and confine
myself to Nos. 4 and 5. I have met one or two extremists, no
more, that make great claims for Nos. 10 and 12. They belong to
the same class that prefer a three and a half ounce rod. I will
guarantee that any experienced ouananiche fisher will not only
attract more fish with a No. 5 fly, but that he will bring safely to
net three or more fish to the extremist's one. So much for size-
now for kind.
The "Jock Scott" and "Silver Doctor " are undoubtedly the
leaders. The "McCarthy Ouananiche," something of a cross
between the two, is usually succes.sful. The "B. A. Scott,"
"General Hooker," "Hare's Ear," "Professor," "Queen of the
Water," "Brown Hackle" and "Coachman" are all very good.
With plenty of these in one's fly-book, all vagaries of the ouana
niche appetite is provided for. I have taken these fish on all
manner of flies, in all kinds of weather. I have had at times a
"White Miller," a "Parmacheene Belle," a "Yellow Sally," aud
even a "Scarlet Ibis" taken as freely as any other, but they can
not be recommended. For trout, the same size and kinds of flies
are proper. In the virgin trout waters they seem to take almost
anything that looks like a fly, but the very best of all iot fontinalis
is the "Parmacheene Belle " and "Scarlet Ibis."
Especial care should be taken in selecting a landing-net. One
with a five or six-foot 'handle and with the net proper fully thirty
inches deep is required. Either from the cauoe or from the rocks,
long reaches must be often made to net a fish. Then, too, if not
of sufficient depth, an ouananiche, iu its jumps, twists and turns,
is more than liable to leap out. Another important point is to
have the net with an opening diameter of at least eighteen or
twenty inches.
Unless one specially desires to hunt small game, a shotgun
should not be taken, only a rifle. Large game is to be had, and it
is necessary to be prepared for it. I do not desire to start a con
troversy on the subject, so will not recommend any special kind,
I will only state that, with many years' experience, I prefer,

62 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
individually, the 44.40 Winchester, since I have never had it fail
me on any game.
Another adjunct to a sportsman's kit, and a very necessary
one', is a repellant for flies and mosquitoes — the bSte noire of the
sportsman. The moment one enters the woods, a swarm surrounds
and welcomes, and their attacks make life unendurable. Penny
royal and citronella are especially good, but, being very volatile,
must be constantly applied. In an extremity, fat pork rubbed on
face and hands is excellent. The very best repellant is pure tar
and vaseline — two-thirds of the former and one-third of the latter,
well mixed. But one or two applications a day are necessary to
give perfect immunity, unless one perspires freely. It becomes
hard in a few moments, will not rub off as does tar-oil, scarcely
discolors the skin, and washes off easily with cold water. Not
only is it a repellant of flies and mosquitoes — the only perfect one
I have ever found — but another point in its favor is, that it does
not melt and cannot spill out. On this account, a wide-mouth
bottle should be used, otherwise it cannot be readily removed.
Of the greatest value in the woods is a rubber poncho or blan
ket. I do not refer to the small ones ordinarily on sale, but a
simple and cheap one, easily obtained. Purchase three yards of
light weight imitation rubber carriage-cloth, fifty inches wide, and
cut a slit in the centre just sufficiently large to allow the head to
pass through. In travelling through the woods or in a canoe, one
can put this on and spend hours in the heaviest rain without get
ting wet. As the sides are open, the wearer does not get heated as
with a rubber coat, and, being larger, it gives more protection to
the feet and legs. At night it is used as a blanket, placed rubber
side down over the bough-bed, to prevent the dampness coming
through. It can also be used to make a temporary tent or shelter,
if necessary." The total expense of this should not exceed one
dollar and a half.
Especially, do not overlook a No. 2 square rubber air-cushion.
Sitting all day in a canoe demands this for .comfort, as one's seat
is the hard bottom of the craft. It can be used as a life-preserver
in an emergency, and is especially convenient as a pillow in camp
at night.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 63
A tackle-box — leather-covered is preferred — should be carried
to contain, in a compact form, all small articles of tackle. Nothing
can then be lost, and ready at hand when wanted are reels, fly-
hook, leaders, lines, swivels, spoons, troUing-lines, sinkers, hooks
of all kinds, net, leader-box, fish-scale, rule for measuring fish,
memorandum-book and pencil, and bottle of tar aud vaseline.
Also, for repairs, it should contain : tool-handle and tools, a strong
pocket-knife, oil-can and small bottle of oil, plyers, windiug-silk,
varnish and brush, needles and thread, and, finally, some court-
plaster, quinine, and a bottle of diarrhcea medicine. With this,
one is prepared for almost any emergency that may arise.
A hint in regard to necessary clothing and foot covering can
not be amiss. Although two hundred miles north of Quebec, the
temperature during the fishing season will be found to vary but
little from that of New York State. The days are warm, but the
nights are usually cold. Heavy undergarments, with the same
outer clothing that one is accustomed to wear in the Adirondacks,
will be found thoroughly suitable. Shoes are useless, boots are
absolutely necessary, as one must be in the water very frequently.
Rubber boots would scarcely last during one day's tramp through
the woods or over the rocks. Any good sportsman's high boots —
eighteen inches — are suitable, but I can especially recommend
either the bottes sauvages or bottes franfaises, that are worn exclu
sively by the Indians, natives and guides. The former are made
comfortable by inserting a heavy birch-bark insole, they being
simply a leather moccasin with a high leather top. The latter are
made in the same manner, with the addition of a sole and heel to
protect the foot from injury. Properly oiled, both are absolutely
waterproof. They can be obtained at Quebec or Roberval at an
expense of from three to five dollars.
The foregoing describes in a general way what one should
carry to be thoroughly prepared for both hunting and fishing in
the Lake St. John region. Individual ideas and requirements can
supply any further additions that may seem necessary. Avoid
useless impedimenta, go into the woods as lightly equipped as
possible.

CHAPTER XIII.
General Information.
My friend Bert has since made a number of trips to Lake St.
John, for the reason, as he states, that his first visit, which I have
described, afforded him only a morsel to satiate a large appetite
for sport. Now that he knows the country, he "is able to appease
his hunger, at least until the next season rolls around. We often
meet and devote the time to recounting our experiences and com
paring notes. He has frequently made a remark that I recall,
since it contained a suggestion which I have endeavoured to
carry out.
"You have doubtless noticed many times, Mac, as have I,
how important it is that sportsmen should know just what to take
with them to Lake St. John, just what necessary things will be
furnished them there, and just where to go when the country is
reached. When you write another book, embody all this informa
tion in it."
"To my mind, Bert," I have answered, "the 'where to go'
subject would offer a difficult, or rather impossible, task to carry
out. The total number of trips that we have made together, added
to those which each has taken alone, as compared with the number
that can be made, is infinitesimal. I could not do that particular
subject justice. As to giving general information and describing
what tackle to take, that would be comparatively easy."
The trips that have been described, in both a particular and
general way, are equally as satisfactory to take now, and afford
fully as good sport as they have done in the past. The best sug
gestion that? can be made to the sportsman intending to visit this
region is to advise that he write in advance to the Hotel Roberval
and engage a good guide. Upon arrival there, he could suggest
the kind of trip he desires and the length of time at his command
to devote to it. Based upon this, his guide would readily be able
to plan one or a, series that should afford absolutely satisfying

A TALE OF lake ST. JOHN. 65
sport. Owing to the large number of sportsmen at Lake St. Jdhn
during the season, it is much the better and safer plan to engage a
good guide in advance, as stated. Do not attempt to select a trip
until it can be done iu person. This does not entail any delay,
since all arrangements can be completed in a few hours after
arrival. The adoption of this plan will prevent disappointment,
and often vexatious delays as well.
In passing from the States over the border into Canada, one
must avoid any trouble with His Majesty's Customs. This can be
provided for by taking nothing but actual necessities, such as I
have noted. Upon these duties are not exacted, unless possibly
when guns are in question, on which a deposit is often required.
This is returned when the weapon is taken out of the country.
The average Customs officer is a good fellow. He appreciates the
fact that sportsmen visit Canada for sport, not to smuggle, and he
knows, too, that American dollars are very welcome to his country
men. This prevents his being over-particular or exacting. In
returning to the States, another Cu.stoms gauntlet, that of Uncle
Sam, is run, and a very particular one it is. One is entitled to
take in one hundred dollars value iu new clothing and furs (except
sealskin). Any other purchases should be declared, and, unless of
specific value, no duty will be exacted.
The Hotel Roberval furnishes everything necessary for a
camping trip. For this reason, absolutely no attention need be
paid to this part of one's outfit, until arrival there and a trip has
been planned. Included are tents, blankets, pillows, towels,
together with cooking and eating implements contained in a large
kettle, and a full complement of provisions, both staple and fancy.
A long list of eatables is presented, from which an as elaborate a
choice may be made as fancy might dictate.
Each member of a party is furnished with a canoe and two
guides. Three-fathom (eighteen feet) canoes are used, which per
mit a goodly amount of the baggage to be taken in each. Two
guides are required, in order to not only expedite and lighten the
trip, but especially are they needed in ascending the strong current
of the rivers, and to handle the craft safely in running the many
rapids.

55 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
The Hotel Roberval makes a fixed charge per diem, which
covers every expense, including board, use of camp outfit, pay of
guides, etc. This charge is quite a little less than the expense for
like services would be, with only one guide, in the Adirondacks.
Especially reasonable are the rates for board for those who prefer
to make only occasional day trips. Prices range from $3.00 to
J5.00 per day, or I17.50 to $28.00 per week. Charges at the Island
House, in the Grande Decharge, are uniformly J3.00 per day or
J17.50 per week. A canoe, with two guides, for fishing, at this
point, costs $4.00, including their board.
The question is often asked as to whether the Indian, half-
breed and habitant guides are wholly reliable and honest. It is a
great pleasure to state that they are absolutely so, without a single
exception that I now recall. I can quote from my own experience,
and add it to that of a large number of others to whom I have put
the question, being anxious to learn thoroughly regarding the
fact. As is well known, all of these people are especially fond of
the whiteman's "firewater." Yet they may be trusted with all
that a party may carry, not only with the unopened bottles, but
those partially empty as well. Rest assured, however, that a
second invitation to indulge is never necessary. Those who are
familiar with the Lake St. John guides, and who have employed as
well those found in Maine, the Adirondacks and other kindred
places, all, without exception, unite in declaring that the former
are by far the most willing, and the greatest workers as well, that
they have ever found. All of these men speak French— their
natural tongue — and many have picked up a few words of English,
seeming to understand what is said to them. Usually one guide
at least can generally be found in each party who can speak and
understand English very well. Some knowledge of French, how
ever, is of great value to the sportsman. It is well to know at
once what is meant when the guide hurriedly whispe,rs " L'orignal
ici ! " (a moose here). Otherwise the animal might disappear and
leave several .miles behind him, before the remark was finally
interpreted and understood.
To others than those resident in the Province of Quebec, the
fish and game laws of that section of Canada are almost unknown,

Group of Sportsmen and Guides.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 67
although a knowledge of them is most important. The laws in
force in the Province of Ontario, as well as those in Nova Scotia,
New Brunswick and Newfoundland, all vary in many material
points from those of Quebec. As it is not necessary, however, to
write in regard to any except the latter mentioned, the former
may be omitted.
Quebec is divided into two sections or zones, designated as
Zones Nos. i and 2 ; the former comprising all of the Province
located west and south of the Saguenay River; the other, that
part lying north and east. There is some variance in the laws of
these two sections, but an understanding of the former only is
necessary. The open seasons in Quebec are much more liberal in respect
to length than are those of other portions of Canada, and especially
of the States. However, the close seasons are of sufficient duration
to amply protect both fish and game during their times of repro
duction. A determined effort is being made on the part of the
Government to enforce these laws strictly, but it is impossible to
guard or protect the immense tracts of wilderness far remote from
civilization. It devolves, therefore, upon every sportsman to be
his own individual warden, and if he be a true knight of the gun
and rod, he will prove to be a very strict one. One must respect
the rights of others, as well as one's own, by providing for future
sport through present protection.
The full list of close seasons for fish and game, including all
changes made in 1902, are now as follows :
FISHING.
Salmon — From August 15th to February ist.
Ouananiche — From September 15th to December ist.
Speckled trout {Salmo fontinalis) — From October ist to
May 1st.
Large grey trout, lake trout, touladi — From October 15th to
December ist.
Pickerel— From April 15th to M^y 15th.
Bass— From April 15th to June 15th.
Maskiiiongd— From May 25th to July ist.

68 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.

HUNTING.

Caribou — From February ist to September ist.
Deer and moose — From January ist to September ist.
(During one season, but one moose, two caribou or two deer
can be taken. Fawns and cow moose cannot be killed. )
Beaver — Close season to November ist, 1905.
Mink, otter, martin — April ist to November ist.
Hare — From February ist to November ist.
Bear — From July ist to August 20th.
Muskrat — From May ist to April 1st.
Woodcock, snijfe, plover — From Eebruary ist to September ist.
Birch or sprtice partridge — From December 15th to Septem
ber 1st.
White partridge or ptarmigan — From February ist to Novem
ber 1st.
Wild duck — March ist to September 15th.
All non-residents of the Province of Quebec are compelled by
law to secure fishing and hunting licenses in advance. This
applies to all except a member of auy game club, individual
lessee, or a guest of either. As previously stated, Mr. Beemer
leases or controls much of the country about Lake St. John and
its tributary rivers ; consequently, guests of the Hotel Roberval are
his guests, and therefore do not require a license.
To the thorough, all-around sportsman who desires to seek
hunting and fishing combined, no time in the year will appeal to
him more strongly than will the month of September, for his
outing trip about Lake St. John. The shooting season opeijs
on the first of this month, while that for trout extends to the first
of October, and for ouananiche to the fifteenth of September.
With the advent of September, winged pests have gone, therefore,
immunity from their stings can be had.
While the open tirae for fishing is on, satisfying sport can be
had by seeking the fish where changes in temperature and other
conditions force them to gq. In their natural waters, trout are
always plentiful in the many rivers and lakes. They are found
running wild and in moderate depths, from the time the ice

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN, 69
goes out during May until, with the warming of the water as the
season advances to summer and autumn, they seek the coolness of
the depths and I'eaufroide or spring holes. With a slight knowl
edge of the varying homes of the trout, which as stated constantly
change with the seasonable variations of temperature of air aud
water, one should never be disappointed in the catches that can be
made. In fact, in a great majority of cases, many more trout
can be taken in a short space of time, than a party with their
guides can possibly dispose of. It scarcely seems necessary to
advise sportsmen to kill no greater number of fish than can be
legitimately used; yet often, too often indeed, large strings are
taken simply that they may be photographed to prove one's
fish stories and prowess with the rod. If only such fish are kept
as may be badly injured with the hook, one can fish until satisfied
or exhausted, provided the others are carefully returned to the
water. This does not cause the slightest injury, provided the
hook is removed with care, and the hand kept wet when handling
the fish.While the ouananiche may be taken at almost all its usual
haunts about Lake St. John, and at all times during the season,
each locality, naturallj', has a specified period when it offers
especially good fishing. For a space of two or three weeks irame
diately following the going out of the ice, magnificent sport can be
had in the mouths of the various rivers flowing into the lake.
This is especially true of the Ouiatchouan and Metabetchouan.
From the middle of June until early in August, the sport at
the Grande Decharge is at its best. During August, better catches
are made and larger fish taken at the pools adjacent to the many
falls and rapids of the Peribonca, Mistassini and Ashuapmouchouan
rivers. The ouananiche are then ascending to the spawning beds
far above. Many of these fish constantly inhabit the Decharge
and make it their spawning bed as well, for which reason more
or less satisfying sport is always to be found there.
It is to be understood that very high or very low conditions of
the water may add t,o or detract from one's success. Then, of
necessity dependence must be placed in the guides, and if time
permits they can seek other places more remote where unfavorable

70 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
conditions do not exist. All throughout the season of J901, the
water in Lake St. John aind its tributaries was at an unprecedently
low stage, making the fishing at nearly all points extremely poor.
During, other seasons or parts of them, high water has materially
interfered with success. That vast numbers of ouana,niche inhabit
the waters of the Lake St. John country no one will deny, but that
weather and water conditions will always be just right, or that the
element of good luck will attend, cannot be promised.

CHAPTER XIV.
The Pro and Con. of Success and Satisfaction
TO BE Found.
Since ouananiche fishing has become generally and popularly
kuown, there have been occasional fishermen who were unfortunate
in meeting with more or less disappointment in making their
initial trip to Lake St. John. That such ill-fortune has befallen
them is true, and being made known has unquestionably deterred
others from making the trip. These disappointments have arisen
from a variety of causes, almost exclusively amongst which is the
main one — the fault of the sportsman himself. This, naturally, he
cannot and will not see, and therefore does not admit. It is well,
for this reason, to analyze the causes carefully.
Primarily, the almost universal idea prevalent with those
about to make their first visit, seems lo be that one may secure
ouananiche and trout fishing, and in fact all manner of sport, with
wonderful results, almost at the threshold of the Hotel. It follows,
unfortunately that, basing upon this belief, a flying trip is usually
planned and made. This may chance to be just at a time when the
fish do not happen to take hold freely.
It might be well to state here, that Lake St, John fish are
iu this respect exactly similar to those of qll other localities. All
fish have their off day or days, owing either to water or weather
changes, a sudden over-supply of food, or from some strange
vagary of their nature — inexplicable. Being pressed for time,
unable to await the pleasure of the fish or to seek them at more
remote points in the surrounding wilderness, the hurried, would-be
angler proclaims the possibilities of sport to be exaggerated, unre
liable, in fact very poor.
Again, if a trip is planned back into the wilds, and reliance
placed upon personal knowledge of journeys supposedly similar,
previously taken in the semi-settled wooded portions of Penn
sylvania, New York, or Maine, for suitable advance preparations.

72 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
they will not be suitable for this region. Often indeed, no inquiry
whatever is made beforehand as to what is to be expected, and the
seeker for sport is totally unprepared to meet or undergo the
natural difficulties and hardships. This brings about not only
a hurried ending of the jaunt, but also renders it unpleasant
to such a degree that the lack of sport is mag;jified, and an
amount satisfying under other conditions, is unsatisfactory.
One may have a too highly colored or exaggerated idea of the
fighting powers of the ouananiche, of the vast numbers of these
fish and trout to be taken, and quantities of game to be found
in this country. Naturally, therefore, he will be greatly disap
pointed when his high ideals fall down to a point within the range
of reason. The ouananiche, while being a prodigy as a fighter,
cannot perform all of the wonderful leaping and fighting acts
often accredited to it; feats that would require a high-geared
engine to furnish the power for.
Other reasons for non-success, such as the use of unsuitable
tackle, or lack of knowledge of hov/ to fish, might be added. To
know the habits of the fish to be angled for, and something as well
of the methods and tackle to be used, is especially necessary for
success; If one goes fishing as a novice, he must expect to find
satisfying sport only after study and practice, unless he expects to
meet with the wonderful luck that sometimes attends the first
efforts of a tyro.
It is better to mention these usual causes of disappointments,
in order that one may. know that such tilings do occur under
certain conditions. It is well also to state that there are always
possibilities of many kinds which may arise to cause realization
to fall far below one's expectation. Discouragement should not
follow — -anticipate better success next time. From a number
of letters received bearing upon this particular subject, I have
selected one which I reproduce in full below. It aptly illustrates
the amount of ill-fortune that is sometimes apportioned out to
mortals in search of pleasure and sport.
"Should these lines reach you, I feel sure you will pardon my
presumption in addressing a stranger, for the sake of a common
bond of angling experience, which 'makes us wondrous kind.'

Bear at Hotel Roberval.

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 73
Having read your pleasing article in the Christmas number of
Fiskmg^ and Shooting, I am tempted to write you, with the hope
that you may have, or know where I may get, a photo of a point
on the Ashuapmouchouan River called the Petite Chute of Portage
a I'Ours. The point, 'View of River Mistassini,' used in the
article, suggests strongly the Grande Chute, where three amateurs
camped for nearly a week, and where I found more 'cussed
vexation ' crowded into a few days' experience than it had been
ever my lot to meet with. On the train to Roberval we fell in with
a young man ripe with Muskoka lore and legends, and in an
untoward moment made him one of the party, trusting bis superior
skill in the gentle craft would prove a valuable help in our designs
against the much ' Murrayed ' ouananiche. We knew compara
tively little about Walton's wiles, but were willing to learn. In a
single day, pur ' past grand knight of the rod ' had succeeded in
losing, in a pool, an excellent Conroy rod which we never recov
ered — his own property; managed to break my companion's rod ;
and when, towards evening, I had kindly loaned him mine, he
hooked a fish and broke my only tip, having lost the other in a
scramble over the rocks and amidst the undergrowth, whence I
reached camp scratched, bruised, wet and disgusted with Canadian
cross country, and firmly convinced that if the Montagnais abori
gines made a circuit of three miles to reach a point of one mile — •
crow-flying distance — they had good reasons for it, amply sufficient,
in fact, to overcome even Indian laziness. This little episode gave
me a clearer and sorer idea of primitive woodcraft than the perusal
of Coopes's fictioii had ever furnished. Since that outing I have
never read an account of Lac St. Jean without a feeling that if the
writer should ever meet the shade of Ananias iu the next world, he
would be recognized at sight. My original companion proved a
veritable Jonah, fishing the whole time ; he never caught a white-
fish, dor^. or anything having a semblance of scales and fins. I
have been often prompted to write up our trip, with the fond hope of
deterring other misguided amateurs from dreaming of ouananiche ;
but knowing how sorely the compatriots of Patrice Clary and his
Canadian fellow-guides need American dollars, I have restrained
the itch of giving cold facts to ambitious tyros of the reel. I am

74 A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN.
yet possessed of the wish to try my luck again, and, I trust, under
more favorable auspices. However, the bit of scenery which I
mentioned in the first part of this letter has remained a bright spot
in a dark setting. Perhaps you know its location and caught it
with your camera. With the mosquitoes brushed away, it was the
pleasantest ground we struck in our foolish expedition to find a
jumping-off place in the North Pole direction. Trusting you may
be able to comply with this (I hope not impertinent) request, I
remain, etc."
This is an experience, indeed an especially amusing one, aud
rather out of the ordinary. The story of " cussed " fishing luck is
exactly in line with what has been stated in the beginning of this
chapter, and one that but few fishermen would so candidly relate.
However, I can add that the writer did carry out his "wish to try
my luck again," and the trip proved to be so thoroughly satisfac
tory, that he has often repeated the trial since.
Before concluding the chapter, and the work as well, some
space properly should be devoted to — (the defence of, I was about
to write in error) — the rarely excelled fighting powers of the
ouananiche. Through the medium of occasional articles appearing
in publications on fishing, a few letters received, and a very few
complaints that I have heard personally, I find that an extremely
small percentage of seekers after the Lake St. John fish raise the
cry that its gameness is greatly overrated. I have referred to this
subject several times in preceding chapters, but a final word cannot
prove to be amiss.
I fear that these unbelievers must be classed as a ^variety of
the " doubting Thomas " family, since they raise their voice or pen
in opposition to the consensus of opinion as expressed by the most
noted anglers in the country. All have hooked and brought to
net, and at varying times during the season, ouananiche that were
logy and faint-hearted. Such also has been the experience of those
fortunate anglers who have met and conquered the salmon, bass
and trout. They do not condemn them, however, for their inac
tivity at that particular time, since they know that history has
credited them with battling powers which they are honestly entitled
to. These same noted fishermen have made the history of the

A TALE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 75
ouananiche as well, and the facts set forth would require more
than the present very small minority vote to change them.
Any number of quotations from well-known fishing authorhies
could be given, but this is not at all necessary, since, as is well
known, they all agree perfectly in regard to the fighting and last
ing powers of the "little salmon." It is to be admitted that one
cannot, as an enthusiast, write on a favorite subject without the
recollection of past sport, and the imagination as well adding a
httle high coloring. Nature at times presents most gorgeous sun
set hues and tints, colors, which if we were to describe or repro
duce, would be classed as highly exaggerated. Why not, therefore,
if Nature's occasional high colorings are natural and true, should
not the occasional high-colored claims for the ouananiche be
equally so?
In conclusion, I wish to state that the experiences given, the
stories of the varying sport had, and the numbers of fish taken in
catches mentioned, are not in the least out of the ordinary in any
particular. The large number of sportsmen who have made not
one alone, but a number of visits to and about Lake St. John, will
almost universally give witness to this effect. Moreover, the fact
must not be overlooked that the same possibilities for sport and
success in fishing are still extant as in the past, and that thousands
of square miles of virgin wilderness yet await the sportsman dis
coverer. Be governed by the when, where and how as set forth
herein ; then eliminate the attempt to accomplish all in a few days,
or the inability to meet occasional disappointment, and but one
result can follow — satisfaction and success heretofore unknown.
You will feel amply repaid by seeing the wonderful beauties of the
trip alone, but add to this the satisfaction of perfect sport secured,
and you will return believing that the most satisfactory location
for sportsmen to visit at the present day is Lake St. John and its
surrounding wilderness.

76

ADVERTISEMENTS

Quebec Railway Light & Power Co.
QUEBEC
This Company operate the Electric Car Service in the
City of Quebec, and the Steam & Electric Railway to
MONTMORENCY FALLS
( 7 miles from city)
and to the
WORLD RENOWNED SHRINE OF ST. ANNE DE BEAUPRE
(21 miles from city)
The above named shrine is visited every week by pilgrimages made up of
people from all over the United States and Canada.
A visit to the Kent House, Montmorency Falls, and its other attractions, in
cluding the wild animals, deer, raioose, etc., etc.. is very popular with American
Tourists ; frequency of trains over double tracks making the trip convenient.
Illustrated pamphlets, descriptive of Kent House, Montmorency Falls, the
Shrine, etc., cheerfully sent on application to the Superintendent.

E. A. EVANS,
Gen. Manager and Ch. Kng'r

J. A. EVERELU
Superintendent

Glover, Try dc Go.

Dress
and Mantle
Making under
able Modistes

CjJ IMPORTERS OF Cp
FANCY
Dry Goods

NOVELTIES Received Daily

Gentlemen's Clothlna made in the
Latest Style at short notice :: :: :: ::

24 & 26 Fabrique St., Quebec

ADVERTISEMENTS

77

Fishing Tackle
Including Suitable Flies
Etc. On Sale at
ISLAND HOUSE
In the vicinity of the Ouananiche fishing at the Grande Decharge

5. J. SHAW & CO.
SPORTING

13 St. John street, U.T.
Telephone 573
Cor. Notre Dame and
Mountain Hill, L.T. . .
Telephone 44

l*^i»^!«^<*^<«^

Forrest & Sons'
Salmon Flies .
Rods, Reels .
Lines ....

GOODS and
Guns, Rifles
HARDWARE andCartrid^

es.

JAMES PERRY

Telephone S19

Warerooms :
323 St. Paul Street
Factory :
6S St. Valier Street
QUEBEC

IVI A IN U FACT U R E R

Parlor and Bedroom Suites
Dining Room and l~l a I I
FURINITURE, Bedding, ete.

78

ADVERTISEMENTS

TlMMON^' GINGER ALE
SODA WATER, ETC.

BQUAI> TO
THE BEST
IMPORTED

Medals, First Prizes
& Diplotaas awarded
for superior quality.

TO TOIRISTS AND SPORTSMEN

DONT FORGET TO PROVIDE YOURSELVES
WITH THE CELEBRATED ...

GUARANTEED BY
IVIILLER &
LOCKWELL THE LARGEST
MANUFACTURERS
OF CIGARS IN THE
CITY OF QUEBEC

DIXIE
CIGARS
Sold at Hotel Roberval

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ADX'ERTISEMENTS

79

THE
RUSSELL

F. X. ST. JACQUES
PROPRIETOR

OTTAWA, CAMADA

82

ADVERTISEMENTS

GEORGE PATRY
MANAGER

TEI,EPHONE 116

H. BEAUTEY
 IMPORTER 
Wines, Liquors
and French Canned Goods
LARGEST ASSORTMEMT IN CANADA
WHOLES. ^LE AND R E T AIL

HEADQUARTERS
/or FISHERMEN'S
SUPPLIES

22 FABRIQUE ST.
QUEBEC

THE SPORTSMAN'8 PARADISE

HEADQUARTERS
AND BLREAU OF
INFORMATION ..
Upon Hunting and
Fishing Limits.
Purchase or Lease
of same.
Titles of Clubs and
Shares therein.

High- Grade
Fisliing Tackle
Salmon, Ouananiche
Trout
FLIES
i 400 Patterns Specially
selecled for Canadian

Camping Parlies supplied wilh Guides, Canoes, Tents, Provisions
and complete Outfits. ,
The V. & B. Sporting Goods Store
93-9S ST. JOHN STREET QUEBEC, CANADA

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