:35 YALEUNWERSnY UBRARY The John Hampden Hall was opened with Sunday School, on Oct. 28th, and has been used daily since. Three friends, who wish to remain anonymous, have prepared and provided this Booklet as a slight acknowledgment to subscribers who have helped to build the Hall. It is sent out also in the hope that others, into whose hands it may fall, will assist in paying off the last instalment of ;£i6o due to the Builders at Christmas. CHALGROVE, OXON., AND JOHN HAMPDEN. X o CHALGROVE, OXON., AND JOHN HAMPDEN. T. Howard Swinstead, Vicar of Chalgrove, Oxon. This Pamphlet is sold privately. The proceeds will be devoted towards the cost of building and finishing the John Hampden Hall, Chalgrove. A VILLAGE AND A BATTLEFIELD. [HALGROVE is an ideal spot for those who wish to rusticate. Far from the busy haunts of men, it is withdrawn from the open high road running between farm lands that have been enclosed within the last century. One of our quietest and most peaceful villages derives a swollen reputation from a cavalry skirmish! Nothing else but " Chalgrove Field " is likely to check the stranger's foot in this old world home of labour. Public authority trusts us so much that a policeman is rarer to see than a motor cycle ; the parish pursues the even tenour (8) of its way with days of toil and nights of sleep. Of modern institutions, the joys of a Board School and the knock of a regular postman, are varied once a week by the welcome visit of a relieving officer. These rival the thrashing tackle which draws clumsily up to the brook side to let the carrier's cart (" Why tarry the wheels of his chariot ? ") lumber on to the next doorstep. Bump goes the bundle, cash on delivery, and a piece of Oxford gossip as a makeweight, while change is being fingered. Yes ; we have a brook, and it once gave five mills their mqtive power, monopolised now by the great mill-wheel opposite Manor Farm. But though lost to useful work, the water has asserted itself within the memory of children baptised but four years ago. Who shall say the water has struck work or is pensioned off, when labour-loving lads wake at five, to rub their eyes over this puzzling sight ? The street they shambled down last night is X X (9) now a rushing torrent two feet deep ; all hands turn out thrust deep into corduroy pockets waiting tiU the fury of the tyrant subsides : stilts are fashionable for forty hours, and pigyard boots (for the fortunate possessors) keep rheumatism at bay till the mud has settled. Then the crunch of wheels and sprays of pebbles spurting from horses' feet declare the road is pass able — but not a credit. From the road to our doorways are three-score and odd plank bridges, some with rails, but none too safe or easy to find on raw and gusty nights. Our homes used to line with the mill stream at the church end, in forgotten years when land lords resided here and pigtail wigs adorned them. This was before five yards of bank were washed away to let our lower course receive the water we dip our pails into to-day. Yet it is delightsome to hear the grandfather of shepherds solemnly explain, how the Church now stands two fields off the village, because the building erected (lO) by day was removed o' nights by the de'il and his clan, to make it the more bother some. " But see the old foundations and plans' of houses here and there cropping up ? " " Ay, but they med be summat else." When— as Domesday Book will show — the Priest Brun strode six furlongs across the fields from Cadwell, to minister to Milo the landlord and his villeins (five millers and their households in Celgrave) doubtless the present goose green would know the heavy tread of the worshippers, standing round a rough cross of stone, till such time as a comely church should be set up. And rubbing shoulders with them, Sawold's serfs and pasturemen from Rope- ford (now Rofford) would make their loud reply. Since the time of Brun, on that spot, round that cross of stone, or a later erection, till the days of his successor, the last vicar of the same name Brown (and assuredly of the same spirit) over a span of 800 years, the same loving message (lO has been patiently given, by monks of Bee in 1130, by the " parson " who in 1200 lived " at the head of Rainacre," by Richard the Clerk in 1220, and his colleague " Ralph the chaplain of Berewike," and " Osmund and David, priests " : then men might hold a scrap of land by payment annually of one " pair of gloves," or two pounds of wax " coram cruce," in St. Mary's Church, Chaugrave. (Is this use of church candles " coram " — " in the presence of . , . " — something of a bolder declaration of the Real Presence than now we meet ?). These were the men who guided heavenwards the families of Quatremain (howsoever spelt, their coat still shows four hands) since 1210 (and one of the name still lives here hard by Pie Corner), and the Barentyns, who, about 1350 built our beautiful chancel and south aisle, and had the frescoes painted — the noble monument of piety recorded only by a strip of brass over our most ancient tomb " Thomas FitzThomas Barentyn (12) gist icy dieu de s[on ame aiepitie]": here dwelled the pastors heard by Sir Edmund Hampden " armiger pro corpore domini regis," who held (1443) the manor called Scyntlers (St. Clare's ?), a property which entered frequently into marriage bonds and lawsuits till 1506, when it passed to William, Bishop of Lincoln, free of encumbrance. There still remain families traceable through all the last four centuries — Frankhn, Phelps, Woodwards, White, Goode, and others, who continue to rent under landlords, now no longer squires, but the Colleges of Magdalen and Lincoln. Indeed, the fact that no squire has resided in Chalgrove for many years may answer for many of our drawbacks, showing how much we have faUen back since the days v/hen the Manor, Langley HaU, the Old Rectory, and other homes sheltered famines who cared little for long journeys or the madding crowd. It is from these representative stay-at-homes mostly, that JiiHX Hami'I)I':x Hai.i,. tl^^l^'^ Kouxdatiox-Stoxk laiii hy \'iscorxT Valkxti \, Arci'sr i)|'h, u)oi) (13) we hear time-honoured phrases and quaint words, and learn about old customs that now are shorn of their glory. " I've catched a tisiky cough." " I beat 'un for makin' kites at me." " That's the scuffle us breaaks clods wi'." " It's a strippin' marnin', sir." " She was real dingey about thik cheque." " Yes, I cut the fleer pretty smartish, but I baint so deedy as brother Ben at it." " M'yes, oor vukker's tidyish sort o' marn, but he baint Chalgro' y' know." " Moles doan't note the traps when they be a bit daney." The hoisting of the Maypole, yet inscribed " M " among the rafters of a barn, is still remembered, and how " the lord and lady " were carried round on a wooden horse ; Chal grove Veast — the dedication festival of the Church — has not quite degenerated into gingerbread and confetti. Moses Brown's legend can still be deciphered describing him as " white and black smith." Claypit Sunday — after a long and discreditable life of " junketings, sports, crickets, and (H) revellin' " in Lent, died a natural death when the " Mouse-trap " ceased to hang the sign of an inn. Funeral wreaths were hung upon the chancel arch what time the western choir gallery boasted its orchestra and its drinking pots. " The battle was afoor our day, y' know, zur ; I can 'member when Hampden was put up 1843, and enclosure was made, then the Heads who su' scribed to't went into a barn to dinner, and two bands play'd all 'long t'road." To this brief reference to the monument commemorat ing our great Patriot, the simple folk add little by way of tradition. On that sunny June morning of 1643, less than a year after John Hampden first reviewed his miUtia in Chalgrove Field, the girls were going — pail under arm — up the Milking Path to their work, when their eyes caught the sheen from the spears of Rupert's men in the distance, and they raised the alarm. The soldiers helped themselves to bread from the oven of the steward of Roffprd, Thi-; F(jxt, Chalukovk. (IS) and Cromwell witnessed the engagement from the church spire (destroyed by storm Jan. 5th, 1727). Human bones have been dug up, and several cannon-balls found (one in a tree at Chiselhampton), as well as a Cavalier's sword, now in the possession of a near neighbour. There is no record that burials of those fallen in the battle were made in the churchyard. Others have told in great fulness how failed the attempt to cut off Prince Rupert from retreating with his loot over Chisel hampton Bridge to Oxford, and how John Hampden early in the skirmish received his death wounds. When he was undressed to have those wounds tended, a locket was found in his bosom containing a slip of paper inscribed : '' Against my king I do not fight, But for my king and country's right," '"^-y' '^^' 'it-ffj:,-. and he bravely acted on the motto his regiment bore " Vestigia nulla retrorsum," for, as Clough wrote in the same year : " He received two carabine shott in his a-a \J, 1^. (i6) arme, %\"hich brake the Bone ; yet he would not presenthe leave the fielde, seeming regardlesse of the pain and great letting of bloode, manfuUie saving, ' He would not onhe lose his arme but lay downe his hfe in that good cause he \\-a5 engaged in.' He was conducted to the house of blaster Ezekiel BroA^iie (a well affected and godhe man) and contrary to all opinion of skilful chirurgeons, he appeared to ha^"e no hopes of recoverie from that hurt, and would, so long as his strength sufficed, \\Tite directions for tlie \'igorous prosecution of the warfare, which by speciall messengers he forw'arded to the Parhament, and these his letters, in the sober judgment of men, ha\"e under God His providence rescued these realms from the hands of \\icked men, who, Aliitophel-hke gave to a weak and credulous King that advice which has embroiled these kingdoms in the present lamentable wslT, Being wellnigh spent and labouring for breath, he uttered tliis praier which I, being present, did presenthe 'II i>iiill. ) I il.M I; I (17) commit to writing as well as my recollec tion served me : ' O Lord God of Hosts, great is Thy mercie, just and holy are Thy dealings unto us sinful men, save me, O Lord, if it be Thy good will, from the jaws of death ; pardon my manifold trans gressions, receive me to mercy; O Lord, save my bleeding countrie ; have these realms in Thine especiall keeping : confound and level in the dust those who would rob the people of their libertie and lawful prerogative ; let the King see his error and turne the hearts of his evil counsellors from the malice and wickedness of their design es. Lord Jesus, receive my soule, Amen. O Lord save my countrie : O Lord, be merciful to .... ' here his breath failed. He gave up the ghoste after having with more than human forti tude, endured most cruel anguish for the space of fifteen days. About seven days before his death, he received the Holy Sacrament after the manner set forth by law, saying that though he could not (i8) awaye with the gouvernaunce off the church by Bishops, and utterlie did abominate the scandalous lives of some clergiemen, yet did he think its doctrine in the greater parte primitive and con- formeable to God His worde, as in Holy Scriptures revealed. The whole armie at his buriall followed singing the xc Psalm and at their return the xliii with ensigns furled and muffled drums and their heads uncovered." It has been doubted since whether the cause of death was a wound inflicted by the enemy or by the bursting of his own pistol presented by his son-in-law, Sir R. Pye. " At supper party of Harleys and Foley, Sir R. Pye, of Faringdon House, Berks, related that at the action of Chal grove Field his pistol burst and shattered his hand in a terrible manner. He, how ever, rode off and got to his quarters, but finding the wound mortal, he sent for Pye, then a colonel in the Parliamentary army, and told him that he looked on him as in (19) some degree accessory to his death as the pistols were a present from him. Sir Robert assured him that he bought them in Paris of an eminent maker, and had proved them himself. It appeared, on examining the other pistol, that it was loaded to the muzzle with several super numerary charges, owing to the carelessness of a servant, who was ordered to see the pistols were loaded every morning ; which he did without drawing the former charge." In order to settle this debated point, Lord Nugent applied to the Earl of Buckinghamshire for permission to disinter the body ; it was granted and confirmed by the Rector of Great Hamp den. The body was disinterred in 1828. " It was in a grave near the west window, next his wife, in a leaden coffin with two interior lids of wood. The opening was performed by the parish plumber. Silence reigned ; not a whisper or breath was heard. Each stood on the tiptoe of expectation awaiting the result. (20) and as to what appearance the face would present. The coffin was placed in the centre of the Church : on lifting the right arm, we found it was dispossessed of its hand. We might therefore naturally con jecture that it had been amputated, as the bone presented a perfectly flat appear ance as if sawn by some sharp instrument. On searching under the cloths, to our no small astonishment, we found the hand, or rather a number of smaH bones, enclosed in a separate cloth. Then it was assumed that a pistol had been the innocent cause of the wound. The rest of the arms and shoulders were intact, except that the left shoulder has been dislocated " (not by a ball, but evidently by a faH from his horse, when Hampden was incapable of handling the reins). Turning from the troubles of this period, it is a calming relief to find how quietly the work of the Church progressed. Most of the communion plate, five of the seven bells, and five of the eight benefactions. The Font, Bekkick. (21) were all presented to the parish during or soon after the Commonwealth wars, and the font (as has been conjectured very plausibly from the carved rose, thistle, and portculhs) was probably rescued from the siege of Wallingford in 1643 when the clergy of All Hallows prized it highly as the latest workmanship of their period, and sought, as a refuge for it, a remote (possibly the remotest) parish in the manor of Wallingford. The oaken pulpit is also of Jacobean date, but probably made up from Eliza bethan wood. Little remains to remark. The frescoes in all their beauty and completeness must be examined carefully to be appreciated. The vicarage is Early Stuart, rebuilt 1702, by Thomas Pocock, student of Christ Church ; the clock has but one hand : the old square pews have been replaced (in the restoration of 1881) by pitchpine : a fragment of masonry with a cluster of hemispherical holes still puzzles every visitor ; the leper (22) window — with a slit cut through to the squint opposite opening into the north chapel — is still hotly debated, and the sedilia universally admired. The initials M.B. in a window of the S. aisle, do not refer to the dedication of the Church — the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary — but to the plumber who mended the window, being churchwarden at the time. J. HOWARD SWINSTEAD, Vicar of Chalgrove, Oxon. September, 1906. •li>2^@®}i-S<0- 03510 1055