YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Bought with the income of the ALFRED E. PERKINS FUND Wxt ^m% ^mti% ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAR MDCCCLVIII. V.OL. XV. DOUGLAS, ISLE OP MAN: PRINTED FOR THE MANX SOCIETY. MDCCCLXVIII. His Excellency the Lietttenant-Goveenor. Ka-^rcsibrats. The Hon. and Right Rev. Hokace, Lord Bishop of Sodor and Mau. The Honourable Chaeles Hope. James Gell, H.M.'s Attorney-General of the Isle of Man. EiDGWAT Harbison, Water-Bailiff and Seneschal. The Venerable Jos. C. Moobe, Archdeacon. EicHABD Jebb, Vicar-General. RlCHAED Quirk, H.M.'s Receiver-General. John S. Goldie Taubman, Speaker of the House of Keys. Ccrantil. Alfred W. Adams, Advocate, Springfield. William Callister, H.K., Thornhill, Ramsey. T. C. Callow, Douglas. G. W. DuMBELL, H.K., Belmont. Wm. Parrant, Ballamoar, Jurby. Ed. Cuephet Farrant, H.K., BallakiUinghan. P. L. Gaeeett, Douglas. William Gell, Douglas. Eev. Wm. Gill, Vicar of Malew. Samuel Haeeis, High Bailiff of Douglas. Wm. Harrison, Eockmount. John M. Jefpcott, H.K., and High BaUiff of Castletown. Eev. Joshua Jones, D.C.L., Principal of King WiUiam's CoUege. Eev. W. Kebmode, Incumbent of St. Paul's, Ramsey. Wir.LiAM Kneale, Douglas. D. D. Lewin, Douglas. Egbert J. Moobe, H.K., and High BaUiff of Peel. Wm. Fine Moore, H.K., Cronkbourne. Lieut.-Colonel Eeadt. T. E. Hetwood Thomson, M.D., Michael. WnuBxxxn. Paul Beidson, Douglas. Poit. Sitcxzimm. Paul Beidson, Douglas. J. E. Olivee, M.D., Douglas. N.B. — Members at a distance are (as heretofore) requested to acknow ledge their Copies to the Honorary Secretary and Treasurer, Mr. Paul Bridson, 6, Woodbourne Square, to whom also their Subscriptions can be remitted. ANTIQUITATES lANM: or, a COLLECTION OF MEMOIRS ANTIQUITIES OF THE ISLE OF MAN. ^hiizh for t^t Patt* ^otietg EEV. J. G. (;?UMMINa M.A., F.G.S., INCUMBENT OF ST. JOHN'S, BETHNAL GREEN, LONDON; LATE WARDEN OF QUEEN's COLLEGE, BIRMINGHAM ; TORMEBLY VICE-PHINOIPAL OF KING WILLIAM'S COLLBQE, ISLE OF MAN. LONDON : PRINTED FOR THE MANX SOCIETY. MDCCCLXVIIL T. KICnAHBS, PBINTEB, 87, OEEAT QUEEN STREET, W.C. PREFACE. The Manx Society was established primarily for the publication of old and scarce books, manuscripts, and documents, pertaining to the history of the Isle of Man, and its vokimes, previous to this, have strictly followed otit that design. But at the meeting of the Cambrian Archaeological Association at Douglas in the year 1865, it was seen that the more ancient history of the island would be greatly elucidated by the consideration of the very many remarkable relics left behind them by its former inhabitants, in buUdings, tumuli, kistvaens, bauta stones, and runic monuments, both inscribed and uninscribed. Hence the Council of the Manx Society considered that it would much conduce to the interest and usefulness of its publications if they included in them the various Memoirs on the Antiquities of the Isle which were read at that meeting, together with others of a similar character. The very ready and most generous consent of the Council of the Cambrian IV PEEFACE. Archaeological Association was therefore obtained for the repubhcation qf the Memoirs on Manx Antiquities which appeared in the Archceologia Cambrensis during the years 1866-7, and the further most liberal use was acquired of the plates of the engravings and the blocks of the woodcuts illustrating the Memoirs in that Journal. To the Cambrian Archaeological Association the Coun cil of the Manx Society desire to- return their deepest acknowledgments for their generosity. n The present volume consists wholly of the Memoirs read at the Douglas Meeting, with such emendations and additions as the various authors of them have thought desirable, amongst which may be mentioned some new and interesting readings and interpretations of the runic inscriptions by myself, and the fuller ac count of the Ancient Churches of Man by Dr. Oliver. Manx antiquities are by no means exhausted in these Memoirs. The Runic Monuments, of which only a few examples are given in this volume, open up a wide field for investigation. Excavations have recently been made, during the progress of the Ordnance Trigono metrical Survey of the Isle of Man, in some of the ancient Tumuli and amidst the Stone Circles, which throw much light upon the ancient modes of sepulture and the habits and character of the Aborigines of the Island. PEEFACE. V The Coins and Seals also which have been preserved, deserve a more carefid examination than has hitherto been bestowed upon them. Hence, a Second volume of the Antiquities of the Island is under the consideration of the Council of the Manx Society, and may probably be expected at an early date. It is hoped that the present volume, with its ample and weU-executed illustrations, may be the means of awakening a deeper interest in the Isle of Man, where the relics of the past have been guarded with a more religious veneration than has been accorded to them by the people of the surrounding British Isles. The isola tion of the country has no doubt in some degree con tributed to this result ; but credit must also be given to the deep religious feehng of Manxmen, not alto gether unalloyed with superstition, which has led them to abstain from the destruction of the monu ments of the dead, and of the places where their fore fathers worshipped. They reap their reward in the materials which they have thus preserved to the Anti quary for elucidating their earlier history. The Editor desires to acknowledge the deep obhga tion under which he hes to the Rev. E. L. Barnwell and Dr. Oliver, for the assistance which they have afforded him ui passing these sheets through the press. VI PEEFACE. The publication must, in reality, be considered as under a joint editorship. One emendation in the text of these papers it seems desirable to make. It would perhaps have been better to have named, on page 34, Maelmore as a "Royal personage" or "Princess", than as a probable ' ' Queen of Man". J. G. Cumming. St. John's Parsonage, Victoria ParJc Square, London, N.E. June 1st, 1868. TABLE OF CONTENTS. 1. On the Omamentation of the Runic Monuments in the Isle of Man . . Rev. J. Gr. Cumming, M.A., F.G.S. 1 2. On some more Recently Discovered Scandinavian Crosses in the Isle of Man Rev. J. G-. Cumming 13 3. The Runic Inscriptions of the Isle of Man. Rev. J. G. Cumming 19 4. Rushen Abbey in the Isle of Man . Rev. J. Gr. Cumming 36 6. Robert the Brus before Rushen Castle. Rev. J. G. Cumming 5S 6. Ancient Churches of the Isle of Man prior to the Middle Ages J. R. Oliver, Esq., M.D. 60 7. Notes on the Stone Monuments in the Isle of Man. Rev. E. L. Barnwell, M.A. 92 8. Church Furniture in Malew Church, Isle of Man. Rev. E. L. Barnwell, M.A. 107 9. On Certain Bronze Implements, Isle of Man. Rev. E. L. BarnweU, M.A. Ill 10. Circle on "The Mull", Isle of Man. J. M. Jeffcott, Esq., H.K. 113 11. Mananan Mac Lir: His Mythic Connection with the Isle of Man .... Richard R. Brash, Esq., M.R.I.A. 119 LIST OF PLATES. Ornamentation of Manx Runic Crosses. Plates I and II . 8 Fragment of an Inscribed Cross in Braddan Churchyard . .12 Cross in Kirk Maughold Churchyard . . . . 14 Cross at Kirk Maughold, Isle of Man, formerly built into the Western Gable of the Church 16 Cross in Kirk Maughold Churchyard, and Cross in a Treen Chapel near Ballaglass, Kirk Maughold, Isle of Man . 18 Runic Inscriptions on Crosses in the Isle of Man . . 23 Vlll CONTENTS. Ruined Tower, Rushen Abbey, Isle of Man . . . .40 Crossag Bridge, near Rushen Abbey 42 Ballingan Treen Church and Enclosure, Kirk Marown . . 78 Manx Cabbal of the Fifth Century 80 The Keeill of the Sixth Century 82 Doorway, Ballaquinney Treen Church . . . . .84 Treen Church of the Eighth Century 86 St. Luke's Chapel, and Burial-ground of the Danish Kings, Cronk-na-lrey-Lhaa ........ 90 Plan of Oatlands Circle, Isle of Man 96 Oatlands Circle, Isle of Man 96 Stone with Cup Markings, Oatlands Circle . . . .96 Stone Avenue, Poor Town, near Peel, Isle of Man . ¦ . .96 Circle on Mull HUl, Isle of Man 96 Kistvaen near St. John's, Tynwald Mount, Isle of Man . . 96 Beads, Rock Crystal and Ornaments found in a Kistvaen near St. John's, Tynwald Mount, Isle of Man .... lot? Paten, Kirk Malew, Isle of Man 106 Portion of Staff Covered with Brass, and Processional Lantern Top, Malew Church 108 Chalice from the Parish of Jurby, Isle of Man . . .110 LIST OP WOODCUTS IN THE TEXT. Chamfered Arch in Rushen Abbey . Single- Light Window, Rushen Abbey Stone Font, Keeill Pharic Stone Font, St. Lingan's Doorway, KeeiU St. Lingan Interior Walling of Ballaquinney Treen Keeill Rock at Ballamona .... Plan of Circle on Mull Hill Crucifix, Kirk Malew Mould for Bronze Implements Plan of Circle on the Mull 89 40 83 848586 95 101108 112 114 MANX ANTIQUITIES. ON THB ORNAMENTATION OF THB RUNIC MONUMENTS IN THE ISLE OF MAN. BY THE EBV. J. G. GUMMING, M.A., P.G.S. The Northmen, during their occupation of the Isle of Man, from A.D. 888 to a.d. 1270, a period of nearly four hundred years, passed from a state of heathenism into .Christianity. This change is marked by the character of the sepulchral monuments which they have left behind them. The barrows and bauta stones, and perhaps some of the stone circles, indicate their earlier religious condition ; their later is marked by the Runic Crosses, Peel Cathedral, Rushen Abbey, the Nunnery of St. Bridget at Douglas, and the Friary at Bechmaken in Arbory. The Runic crosses are probably the earliest Christian re mains of this people, and they are by far the most numerous, not less than thirty-eigh.t having been discovered and described, of which nineteen, if not more, have on them inscriptions in Runic characters. Prom tlie nature of the ornamentation upon those which are inscribed with Runes, we are enabled to determine by com parison that other crosses, not inscribed, are of the same age with them. For though the peculiar ornamentation which has received the name of knot-work is common to English, Irish, and Scotch crosses, as well as to the Manx, there are certain remarkable varieties of design and workmanship on the crosses B 2 OENAMENTATION OP EUNIC MONUMENTS of the Isle of Man, which readily distinguish them from all others, and mark them as truly sui generis. The Manx crosses have, as far as I know, no exact counterparts elsewliere. This will readily be seen by any one who will take the trouble to lay the plates of my Bimic and other Monumental Remains of the Isle of Man alongside of the splendid Palceo- graphia Sacra Pictoria of Mr. Westwood ; or the beautiful work of the late Mr. Chalmers, The Sculptured Stones of Angus and Fijfe; or the more extensive collection of Scottish Sculp tured Stones, printed for the Spalding Club ; or Mr. Henry O'Neills magnificent book on the Most Interesting of the Grosses of Ireland ; or Mr. Graham's deeply interesting work, the Antiquities of Iona. Before directing attention to tlie peculiar ornamentation of the Manx Crosses, it may be well to offer a few remarks upon knot-work itself. The term knot-work has been applied to a species o.f orna ment of great beauty and variety which is met with in MSS. and articles of vertu, and of monuments and architecture of the Middle Ages. The MS. of tbe Gospels (known by the name of St. Chad's MS.) in the library of Lichfield -Cathedral, by some presumed to be of the early part of the eighth century, bas various rich illuminations in which this style of ornament prevails. The Gospels of Mac Durnan, of Lindisfarne, of Mac Regol, and at St. Gall, and the famous Book of KeUs, are all remarkable for the intricacy and rich variety of this kind of work. Good examples of this species of ornamentation are to be met with in Norman architecture, as, amongst many others, in Lichfield Cathedral; in the parish church of Tutbury; and in the Church of St. Peter's, Northampton. But it is on monumental crosses that patterns of this peculiar decoration seem most largely to prevail. Starting from the form of a simple cord or strap, tben of two or more cords or straps intertwined, it has passed (as I IN THB ISLE OP MAN. 3 conceive) into floriation, assuniing the forms of interlacing boughs and foliage, and at all times has had a tendency to izoomorphism, transforming itself into grotesque figures of in tertwining monstrous animals, more especially of dogs, birds, fishes, and serpents. There is probably no species of decoration admitting of greater variety than this, and hardly any which adapts itself so readily to every sort of work in wood, stone, or metal, and to the illumination of every kind of writing. It will be seen that, in reference to this species of ornamen tation, I am quite in favour of a theory of development ; and I express my adoption of such a theory in order to free myself from the suspicion of attempting to settle the dispute as to whether Britons, Anglo-Saxons, Northmen, the Irish, or the Scotch should lay claim to priority in the use of this sort of decoration in works of art. I hold that the artists of each of these nations may have wrought quite independently of each other in this kind of work. I have even seen examples of Chinese knot-work not greatly differing from some in the Isle of Man. Starting from the simplest form of a rope common to every people, they might develope that form according to their characteristic national tastes. So that even if it should be determined (which, I be lieve, it cannot be) that any one race had adopted such orna mentation at an earlier period than others, it by no means necessarily follows that those who subsequently used it were mere copyists of earlier works. I have sometimes been told that the Manx crosses are but bad attempts at imitating Irish or Scotch works of art. Now, whatever may be the antiquity of the M88. in which the same species of ornament occurs as that upon some of the Manx crosses, I am quite sure that it has yet to be shewn that any of the crosses bearing such orna ment either in Ireland or Scotland, are earlier than those in the Isle of Man. We have also some varieties of ornamentation on the Manx crosses (and .those of the laost beautiful design), 4 . OENAMENTATION OP EUNIC MONUMENTS which have no counterpart on either the Irish or Scotch monu mental remains. And it would be quite as easy to suppose that the Irish and Scotch obtained their designs from the' Manx artists as that the latter were but imitators of what they had seen in Ireland or Scotland. I say nothing of the finish or workmanship on the crosses of the respective countries, be cause I beHeve that the material which was wrought upon had much to do with the finish of the work. The clay schists of the Isle of Man, almost the only material of which the Manx crosses are made, are but ill adapted for carving, and do not admit of a pohsh ; and, further, they very readily yield to the action of the weather. That we find these crosses, which are seven or eight hundred years old, retaining as much of their original decoration as they do, must be attributed to the circumstance that after an exposure of from two to three hundred years, they were used as material for the erection of ecclesiastical buildings, instances. of whioh may be seen now in the Cathedral of Peel and in a Treen Chapel in Jurby, the former building being of the date of the thirteenth century. The majority of the Manx crosses have been discovered within the last fifty years in pulhng down the old churches in the north of the island and erecting new ones. These crosses were figured and described by iny- self in 1857 in my work on the Runic and other Monumental Remains of the Isle of Man, and the references in this memoir are to the figures in that work. To come to the consideration of the knot-work on the Manx crosses, I observe that a cord or rope suggests itself very readily as an ornament to any maritime people, such as those amongst whom knot-work prevailed. It may be allowed that a plain strap would equally serve the same purpose ; and in flat work, such as the illumination of MSS., we can readily con ceive that such an element in ornamentation would suggest it self. But in raised work, such as carvilig on stone, the more substantial form of the rope would form the ground-work of the decoration. IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 5 Such a simple ornament is found on the Manx crosses as a border to the other devices carved upon the stone. I may in stance the well-known so-called Dragon crosses in Braddan churchyard, the Niel Lumgun cross at Kirk Michael, and the fragment found at the old chapel in the Calf of Man. In the last case the cord forms also a portion of the decoration. Figures i and ii are reduced from rubbings of the Braddan crosses. This straight cord would next become waved, and, by being made to return upon itself, would form the fret which in various forms occurs upon works of art of all ages. This decoration in the forms so constantly used elsewhere, is not to be found on the Manx crosses, though an approximation to a fret-like ap pearance is produced on some of them by drawing the lines which divide the strands of a simple cord, or of two cords twisted together, somewhat thick. This character is seen in figure II, which is copied from the Oter Dragon cross at Kirk Braddan. The same form occurs also on the large Joalf cross at Kirk Michael, on the top of the large cross at the gates of the churchyard of Kirk Maughold, and on the cross taken from the bell turret of Kirk Maughold, and described in the next memoir. The mystic Tau pattern (see figure iv) so copiously used on monuments, crosses, arcliitecture, and MSS. of all ages, was very largely employed also by the Manx artists on the Runic crosses. We find it on the Ufeig cross at Kirk Andreas, the Thorlaf cross at BaUaugh, the cross in the Treen Chapel at Jurby, on fragments in the churchyard wall at Kirk Michael, and on a fragment in the garden of the vicarage at Jurby. Again, the C pattern and a spiral appearance were produced by a still further involution of the simple cord, as in figures v and xxx, taken from the Niel Lumgun cross at Kirk Michael. In MSS. this has been largely used,, as may be seen in Mr. Westwood's paper on "Early British, Anglo-Saxon, and Irish Ornamentation", in the fortieth part of the Archceological 6 OENAMENTATION OF EUNIC MONUMENTS Journal, December 1853. It is also weU known in Greek architecture. On the Manx Runic monuments it occurs m its most elaborate forms, both as a border and as scroll-work m connection with the limbs of animals. This is well seen on the fragment of the Dog cross in the garden at Kirk Conchan, on the large cross (uninscribed) at Kirk Maughold, on the Oter Cross at Braddan, on the large Joalf cross at KJirk Michael, on the Sandulf cross at Kirk Andreas, but more remarkably on the Weasel cross in the churchyard of Kirk Conchan. In this latter cross we have it both for a continuous border ing, and for terminations to straight cords, and also as a separation of the limbs of monstrous animals, in the form of the letter S and in the Ga-rmnadion at the foot of the cross. Figures v, xxn, xxiii, and xxx, are taken from this cross. Allied to the T and C patterns was the Z pattem (figure iii), of which we have one single instance in the Isle of Man. It occurs on the large cross at Kirk Maughold church gates, which has an aspect quite foreign to the works of the Scandi navian artists in the island. Indeed, all the crosses found at Kirk Maughold have somewhat of a foreign aspect ; they are rather Scotch than Manx. Is this circumstance in any way connected with the fact that the church and churchyard of Kirk Maughold (covering three acres) were set apart in ancient times as a Sanctuary ? By causing the simple cord to assume a waved form and then to return and wrap over itself, or by taking two cords and causing them to involve each other at regular intervals, we obtain the simplest form of the guilloche, figure vi, an in terlacement well known and very largely used in architecture. Examples of this occur on the Ufeig cross at Kirk Andreas, the Thorlaf cross at Ballaugh, and on fragments at Kirk Michael and Jurby. It is in this guilloche that we have the real element of knot- work, and the Manx artists having once got hold of this element, wrought it out into a multitude of most elegant forms, many IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 7 of which I do not remember to have noticed elsewhere. Take, for example, figures vii, vm, and ix, which are- evident de velopments of the idea, and which are taken from the Mal- brigd cross at Kirk Michael, the Thoriaf cross at Ballaugh, and the fragment of Ro's cross in the garden of the vicarage, Jurby. When once this interlacement or knot-work was effected either by the overlap or splitting up of the strands of a simple rope, it was easy by the multiplication of the cords or strands to originate that endless variety of ornamentation which we see in monuments and works of art of all countries, and most elaborately brought out on the crosses in the Isle of Man. As to the arrangement of the knot-work, I may here ob serve that, generally speaking, on Irish monuments or on those which are all presumed to have an Irish origin, the knot-work runs in the form of panels. On the other hand, in the Manx specimens of the oldest type, the original idea of lengthened and continuous chain work rather prevails. The nearest approach in the Manx crosses to the Irish or Scottish panel work is to be found on the Niel Lumgun cross at Kirk Michael, which, in other re spects also differs from the ordinary Manx type ; for instance, the runes are of a different form ; and, according to Professor Miinch, of a later date; the dialect of the inscription is different, and the names occurring in it (such as Niel and Dugald) have rather a Celtic than Norse look. There is a tendency towards this panel-work in the large uninscribed cross at Kirk Maug hold church gate, which, as I have before observed, has also a foreign aspect, and one side of the Oter cross at Braddan has two panels containing interlacements. Another cross taken from the bell-turret of Kirk Maughold twelve years ago, and figured and described in the memoir subsequent to this, has also such panel work. Returning to the consideration of these interlacements or knot-work, we find that th-e Manx artists made a very easy ad- 8 OENAMENTATION OP EUNIC MONUMENTS dition to the ornamentation afforded by the simple guilloche by increasing the number of cords. A double guilloche was formed by the involution of four cords, as in figure xi, copied from the Malew cross in the Museum of King William's College, the same pattem being found in the Sandulf cross at Andreas. And, in like manner, by the involution of four cords, we obtain the beautiful figure- of-8 design (see figure xn), which is seen on the fragment of the cross at Kirk Conchan, which I have named the Dog cross, and the rich ornamentation (see figure x) copied from Ro's cross at the vicarage, Jurby. A very remarkable development of the guilloche, which I have hardly noticed elsewhere, occurs abundantly on crosses in the Isle of Man, to which I would give the name of ri-ng-worh. It consists in binding together by an intertwining ring the overlaps of the cord or cords forming the guilloche, as in figures IV and xv, the latter taken from the Ufeig cross at Kirk Andreas. It occurs on all those crosses the workmanship of which I am inclined to attribute to Gaut Bjornson, whose name is given as a cross maker in the inscription on that erected by Mal- brigd the son of Athakan Smith, which stands at the church yard gate' of Kirk Michael, as well as in that on the Ufeig cross. The passage from" knot-work to ring-work seems in one in- ¦ stance on the Manx crosses to have been made by accident rather than by design. I refer to the case of knot-work orna mentation on the face of the tall uninscribed cross at the west gate of Braddan churchyard, where, in order to complete the figure in the comer at the top of the cross, the last overlap of the cord forming the knot-work is bound together by a single ring which fills up the vacancy which would otherwise occur, and produces uniformity of appearance. This portion of orna ment is given in figure xm. The ring being thus once adopted, wide scope for ingenuity was afforded in its arrangement, form, and decoration. PlaU.I. Pl^ltUlI J,/6. £eJ&oc...^ TT— :ii— J> <:= ¦js:; I I -li^ ^5 ^ '?!^i;^^ — <- ^^ -V- -7^ -r^ S^ t -/- Ar V -^ V ^-7-^ -7^ ¦V M "-^ W ^ g fe S OP THE ISLE OF MAN. 23 ¦e- I ventured to give in my Bunia and other Monumental Ri mains of the Isle of Man the translation thus : — " Malbrigd, the son of Athakan the Smith, erected this cross for his soul, (but) His kinsman Gaut made it and all in Man." Mr. Carr objects very strongly and properly to Smith and Gaut being considered as in any other case than the accusa tive. The norninatives would be Smithr and Gautr, and the genitive of Smithr would be Smithar. My own impression is that these Norse stone cutters might make mistakes in grammar as well as in spelling, which we know they have done, as above stated. In doing this they seem sometimes to have been guided by the space they Had at command on the stone, and it Has occurred to me that the false grammar in the above inscription may be due to a like cause. Perhaps on account of want of space at the end of the incision, the two words, " I Maun" were written as one without any stop between them, whilst at the beginning of it, where the space had not been calculated, the name Mailbrigdiis divided by a stop into the words, as Mail : Brigdi. But Mr. Carr's reasonings on the score of grammar are so just and forcible, that I must give them in full. He says — "We must ever remember that unless we can make out the exact grammatical construction of an old Norse or of an Anglo- Saxon inscription, we must leave it in obscurity. The cases of the nouns, adjectives, and pronouns, and the tenses and per sons of the verbs, are the only means we Have of convincing ourselves and others that we are right; the old Norse is nearly as rich as the Latin in its cases, and whioh are most wonder fully observed. Writers could no more confound or omit them than a Frenchman could use the wrong genders of a noun or the wrong tense of a verb in .speaking. The right ones corae to him with his mother's milk, and He cannot mistake them. Hence the accuracy of Icelandic or old Norse inscrip tions, and of Saxon ones, and of old Roman ones in Latin, as to cases, genders, tenses, etc. And these very things are the 24 THE EUNIC INSCEIPTIONS proofs to us that we are reading aright. THe moment we find wrong grammar we are at sea, and merely guessing, however plausible the same may seem to us. And grammar makes all compromise impossible, unless where both readings happen to be equally grammatical, and you choose the most likely all things considered. Thus, I Have no quarrel with Smith, if we can make grammar of it; but it must stand for Smithar or nothing, if from the noun supposed." Mr. Carr hence, in the first place, suggested that the word smith might be written for smeiti or smeit, since " ei" in runes is often written simple "i". Now, the word smeite means con tusion or figuratively contrition, aud .in the dative or ablative it would be Smbit, signifying in a contusion or perhaps in con trition, and the inscription might then be translated — " Mael- brigd, son of Athakan, in hurt (or contrition) raised this cross for His soul. His betrothed caused Gaut to chisel it in Man." Mr. Carr has secondly suggested that, instead of regarding " Smith" as part of the personal pronoun Smithr, a workman, we may take it directly as the feminine noun " Smidh", a fabric or work of art, and in the accusative case, thus making the whole inscription grammatical. Again, as gaut mus-t be in the accusative, we must have a verb to govern it, and this we Have in the word giethi, which follows it, and signifies to cause or maJce to do a thing, as well as to fashion, form, or make. It is in fact often used like our English word make, as an auxiliary verb. Mr. Carr further ob serves that, as there is no stop between the words auk and ALA, but only a break caused by the transfer of the inscription to the other side of the stone, it may well be read as one word AUGALA, and as au and o nearly sound the same, the word may be for OGALA, " to chisel with a mallet." With respect to the word beukuin, it may well be rendered hride or hcfruthcd. Hence the whole inscription would stand thus : — OP THE ISLE OP MAN. 25 • MAIL-BEIGDI, SUNE ATHAKANS, SMIDH EAISTI CRUS THANO PUE SALU SINI : SIN BEUKUIN GAUT GIETHI THANO AUGALA I MAUN. And may be translated thus : — " Mailbrigd, son of Athakan, as a work of art, erected this cross for his soul. His betrothed (or bride) made (or caused) Gaut to chisel it in Man." The expression raised this cross may merely mean made -pro vision for it, whilst the direction of the work during his de chne from wounds or sickness was undertaken by his Manx bride, the natural executrix, and the expression in Man would imply that the inscription might afterwards be read by new comers from Norway or Denmark, who might otherwise think the stone had been cut elsewhere, Mailbrigd himself having been not improbably a new comer. Mailbrigd (the servant of Bridget) is evidently of Celtic ori gin, and a name not unfrequent in the annals of these coun tries. One of the churches in the Isle of Man is dedicated in honour of St. Bridget, as well as the nunnery near Douglas. My own idea still is that the ae in smithae Has been dropped on account of the next word eaisti beginning -with e, and the two words smithaeeaisti read together would not sound very different from smitheaisti. Hence I shall prefer retaining smith as an appellative, considering it as in the genitive in apposition with the name athakans, and give, as the result the following translation : — " Malbrigd, the son of Athakan, the smith, raised (or caused to be raised) this cross for his soul. His betrothed caused Gaut to chisel it in Man." In any case, the great advantage of reading augala to chisel with a mullet, instead of auk ala and all, will be apparent. First it gets rid of the false grammar of regarding the word GAUT as a nominative, and then sets aside the presumption that Gaut was the earliest cross maker, and the only one in Man of his day. This suggestion is entirely due to Mr. Carr. It is well to note that the name of the Isle of Man on this 26 THE EUNIC INSCEIPTIONS cross is spelt maun, showing that it was anciently pronounced broad, and thus bringing it into closer connection with the name Mona, the Roman appellation of the island. II. I will take next the inscription on a very much worn and defaced cross, which stands on a green near the churchyard gate of Kirk Andreas, and which also is the work of Gaut. The first and last portions of the inscription are too much injured to be read with any certainty, but we may make out distinctly. CEUS : THANA : AP : UPAIG : PAUTHUE : SIN : IN : GAUTE : GIETHI I SUNE : BiAENAE. (See fig. Il) . The word before " Crus" was almost certainly Raisti, but the name 'has disappeared. The translation would be " (NN erected) this cross to Ufeig, his father, but Gaut Bjornson made it." After " Sunr Bjarnar" (Bjornson, the son of the bear) occur some runes which look like Guh Cult. Mr. Carr has pointed out that "kobbi" signifies a seal or sea- calf, and that "culi" may stand for "queli", i.e., MUer. Hence if the reading be " cub culi," seal killer, it may be an agnomen of Gaut, indicating that he had previously been in his youth a noted seed hunter, though after his residence in Man becoming a stone cutter. I take next the inscriptions on three crosses, all of which I believe to Have been the work of one and the same artist, Thorburn, a name still permanent in the Isle of Man. My reasons for coming to the conclusion that they are all the work of this artist are that on all three of them occurs the same remarkable lacertine ornament, and on all are the words risti for raisti, aft for aftir, and thono for thana. III. The first of the three is that on the fragment of the Oter cross in the midst of Kirk Braddan churchyard. It reads (see fig. in) — UTE : EISTI : CEUS : THONO : APT : PEOKA : PATHUE : SIN : IN : THUEBIAUEN : SUNE. " Oter (ov Otter) erected this cross to his Father Frogat, but Thorbjorn (or Thorburn) son of (NN made it)." OP THB ISLE OP MAN. 27 The name of Thorburn's father and the word girthi " made it" are broken off, but no doubt these were the words originaUy there. There was an Oter (Otter or Octar) appointed Viceroy of Man by Magnus Barbeen in 1098, and this date agrees with the period (the tenth and eleventh centuries) assigned to the majority of the Manx crosses by Professors Miinch and Wor saae. Gaut was probably the maker of most of the earlier crosses in the tenth century, and Thorburn, whose crosses are more elaborately finished and dialect somewhat different, may have been an artist of the latter part of the eleventh or the beginning of the twelfth century. IV. Alongside of the Oter cross is another of like design but more perfect, viz., the Thorlaf (or Dragon) cross, the inscrip tion on which is very perfect and legible. It runs thus (see fig. iv) THUELABE : NEAKI : EISTI : CEUS : THONO : APT : PEAK : SUN : SIN : BEUTHUE : SUN : BABES. "Thorlaf Neake erected this cross to Feake His son. Brother's son of Jaf." V. The third of Thorburn's crosses is the magnificent Joalf cross at the churchyard gate of Kirk Michael, the inscription on which is very plain, and reads (see fig. v) — jualpe : sune : THUEULPS : bins : EAUTHA : EISTI : CEUS : THONO : apt : PEITHU : MUTHUE : SINA : " Joalf the son of Thorjolf the Red erected this cross to His Mother Frida." VI. Having taken nowthe inscriptions on five ofthe crosses, of which we believe the makers to Have been Gaut and Thor burn, we will take an inscription which contains also the name of the maker of the cross, but no other name. It is on a fragment of the lower portion of a cross which stands in a corner on the south side of the church of St. John the Baptist near the Tynwald-hiU. THe inscription is very. much worn and defective both at the beginning and end (see fig. vi). The four first rones arc tolerably plain, but the next 28 THE EUNIC INSCEIPTIONS four are very imperfect, and the great similarity of the runes for R and U, as I Have before observed, throws some doubt over the reading. Mr. Kneale Has proposed Ino : Sunr, "Ino's son." This will require us to read the fourth rune, as two dots or a cross for the separation of the word instead of S, but a very close and repeated inspection of casts leads me stiU to read the fourth rune as 8, and then after the 8 there are certainly more runes than JJNB. That the last rune is R, I have Httle doubt, aud that the letter after 8 may be Z7is not improbable, bnt there are still two letters remaining, of which the first may be R or U, and the other I, E, A, B, 0, or N. The inscription will then read inosruie : eaist : eunae : these : aftie ; i. e., " Inosruir carved these runes to (NN)." VII. We have still another Manx cross-maker's name, but upon a work of which he has no need to be proud, for it is a mere slab of clay schist, with a very rude figure of a cross and glory upon it, and the runes are scrawled over it, up, down, and crosswise on both sides of the slab with little apparent con nection between them. On one face of the slab at the top and running upwards we have the word "Cru," part of the word crus, cross. Under- ueath it, running downwards, isuceist, Jesus Christ, placed where tho body of our Lord would be on the cross, and near the bottom, running slantwise, thueith, Thurith, then, on the edge at the bottom, eaist x eunbe, carved the runes. On the other face of the slab we have a number of words placed up and down (^ovtTTpocfiTjSov) , the connection of which it is difficult to make out. On the right hand side of the face, as we look at it, running downwards and very faintly traced, are simply the runes am x i, the fragments of two words; run ning upwards there aro ugigat (or agegat) x asuie x athi- GEiT, on the opposite edge, running upwards, we read sune X eaisti X APTiR X sun X SIN A (see fig. vn), and then running downwards the word muekiblu. The letters are all badly formed and much worn, being on OP the isle op MAN. 29 the face of the stone, which was exposed and knocked about for some time on a piece of rock-work in a garden at Kirk Con chan. The strokes in the runes, which should be vertical, slope considerably, and the side strokes are often too much prolonged. Hence we can readily read the word "Ugigat" as " Agegat," which, as Mr. Carr has well remarked, will enable us to give some meaning to this otherwise obscure inscription. For " Agegat " may be an abbreviated form of " Agegnat," which means over against, then "Asuir" may be for " Osuir," onr. The grammar requires that we should read " Aftir Sun Sin, not " Sina," and this we may properly do, for the " a " is in fact separated from the " Sin " by a line forming a portion of .the rude figure ofa cross scratched on the face ofthe stone, and this line may be considered as equivalent to the usual mark separating words. We can then further regard this " a " as a preposition governing the word " Murkiblu," though it is on the other side of the slab, and "Murkiblu" may be read as "Murkibla," signifying mirk-blue or dark-blue, i.e., mourning. Further, we may observe that a portion of the slab (doubt less containing some words before " Agegat ") is broken off. Hence the inscription may be put together thus : — ¦ " . . . AM X I . . . AGEGAT X ASUIR X ATHIGRIT X . . . SUNE X EAISTI X APTlE X SUN X SIN X A X MURKIBLA, and WO Cail then translate it. " . . . . am I . . . . (lies buried) over against our Athigrit, (NN's) son erected (this) to his son, in mouming." The inscription, though imperfect, is thus rendered intel ligible, and is one full of affection and sad remembrance. VIII. I am not aware of the names of any other makers occur ring on the Manx crosses, but probably there was the name of one upon the cross, a fragment of which is in the garden of the vicarage at Jurby. I am not without Hope that the remainder of the cross may still be discovered. The portion of the in scription remaining (written ^ovaTpo^-qhov) reads thus (see fig. viii). 30 THE EUNIC INSCEIPTIONS " . . . EU : SUN : IN : ONON : RAITI : APT : PAITHUE : BEU. "... Ro's Son, but Onon erected it to his Father's Brother." Ru may be merely the termination of a name or the name itself. In either case it seems to be connected with the maker of the cross, whoever he may Have been. " Sun" must be in the accusative case. The "Raiti" seems misspelt for "raisti," raised ; if we could read it " raist," carved, then we should Have Onon as another cross maker. The "Bru" is either part of the word Bruthur, or of the name of the father of Onon. , I will pass more rapidly over the remaining inscriptions, which, with one exception, are ofa less interesting character. IX. On the cross which I have called the Sandulf cross in Andreas churchyard is the following inscription (see fig. ix). SAND : ULP : EINS : SUAETI : EAISTI : CEUS : THONA : APTIE : AEIN : BIAUEK : KUINO : SING. " Sandulf the Swarthy erected this cross to his wife Arin- bjorg." THe most remarkable part of this inscription is the division of the names Sandulf and Arinbjorg each into two words, just as Mail Brigdi is separated in inscription i. On the cross is the figure of a female, perhaps Arinbjorg, on* horseback. X. On a very beautiful and almost perfect cross which stands in the churchyard of the old parish church of Ballaugh, is the following inscription, which runs up one side of the face of the fust of the cross, and into the cavity between the arms (see fig. x). THOELAIBE : THOEIULB : SUNE : EAISTI : CES : THONA : AIPTIE : ULB ; SUN : SIN. " Thorlaf, the son of Thorjolf, erected this cross to Olave his son." In order apparently to save space, the carver has omitted the rune for U in Crus, crowded the runes Ulb (Olave) and put Sun Sin in the head of the cross. And yet he writes Aiftir for Aftir. XI. On a cross which had formed the doorstep of Braddan OP THE ISLE OP MAN. 81 church, but which is now placed in the midst of the church yard, we Have the following very nearly perfect inscription (see fig. xi) : — THURKETIL : EAISTI : CEUS : THANO : AFT ; UPAIG : SUN : KLINAIS. " THorketil erected this cross to Ufeig Klinaison." There is some doubt about the first name, though the first syUable seems very like Thur, and the next five upright marks appear to me to stand best as the runes for ketil. Mr. Kneale has remarked on the number of Norse names beginning with Thor, as Thorbjorn, Thorfinnr, THorketil, Thorstein, Thorvaldr, to which we may add from the above inscriptions Thorlaibr and Thoriulb. To my eye the runes in this inscription altogether look most like Thurketil, and I adopt this name. The termi nation keti,l is very frequent in Norse, and Has been corrupted in EngHsh into kettle. Thus there are in a parish in Suffolk with which I am acquainted the names Tirltettle (THorketil), Ashkettle (Osketil), and Rinkettle (Runketil). The two first Norse names occur on Manx crosses, and in the same Suffolk parish there is also the Norse name Feake, the Peak of the Braddan cross. XII. On the fragment of a cross originally at Kirk Michael, but now in the Museum at Distington, we have the singular inscription (see fig. xn) EE : OSKETIL : VILDI : I : DEIKU : AITH : SOAEA : SIIN. The Scandina-vian savans read this askitil : vilti : i : triqu : AITHSOARA : siiN, translating it — ¦ " Whom Askitil deceived in security, contrary to his pledge of peace." A close examination of the cast of this stone enabled me to detect an ee at the beginning, and the stop between " Aith" and " Soara," which I pointed .out to Mr. Carr, and the result of the amended reading has led to some valuable hints as to the translation, and given a totally different character to the inscription. I would first observe^ as I Have done in the table pf Alpha- 32 THE EUNIC INSCEIPTIONS bets appended to my Runic and other Monumental Remains, that the Manx alphabet contains no rune for h. The first word, therefore, in this inscription " Er" is put for " Her," here. Next, the third word, " vildi," is derived from " vila," to be-wail, and is not to be read for " viUdi," from " villa"," to beguile, deceive or seduce. The fifth word must be read " driku", drink, and " i driku" will mean in a drinking, i. e., in a funereal feast, which we know was always accompanied with ale drinking amongst the Norse and Saxons. The next word, " Aith," is most probably a female proper name. Then "Soara" is an old form of spelling for "Svara," a rnotker-in-laiv, the Latin socrus. Siin is another method of representing the long sound of the I in SIN. Putting all these readings together we get the inscription as, EE : OSKETIL : VILDI : I : DRIKU : AITH : SOARA : SIIN. " Hei'e Osketel bewailed in a drinking feast Aitha his mother-in-law." xm. We have at Kirk Michael fragments of three crosses bearing inscriptions (see figures xm, xiv, and xv). The first is in the vestry of Kirk Michael Church, geims : INS : SAURTi. " Grims the Black." XIV. The next, which is in the churchyard wall, is SVIG: EISTI : CEUS : THNA : EPT : EUMUN. " Svig erected this cross to Romon." The Svig is not very plain. On another fragment of the same cross we have simply the letters nt. XV. The third inscription also on the churchyard wall is CEUS : THNA : APTIE. " This cross to ." XVI. In the walls of the nave of Peel Cathedral is built the fragment of a cross bearing this inscription (see fig. xvi)-^ ... us : THENSI : EFTIE : ASEITHI : KUNU : SINA : DUTUE : UT . . . EAIST. OP THE ISLE OP MAN. 33 FiUing up the inscription as far as we can, it may be translated " (AB erected) this cross to his wife Asrith, the daughter of Oter; (CD) carved (the runes)." The first three runes in Dutur are imperfect, and the word may be Mutur, " Mother." The name Oter has before been noticed on the Braddan cross. If the stone were extracted from the wall of the Cathedral we might perhaps be able to form a conjecture from the style of ornamentation as to whether the two Oters were the same person. XVII. The word Kunu for Kuinu " Wife'^, seems to point to a later dialect, which we have in the next inscription which is on that cross on the churchyard wall of Kirk Michael, which has been before noticed as having a more foreign aspect than the other Manx crosses, and the runes upon which are spoken of by Professor Miinch as being of a later date, diSering from the older Manx runes in the letters A, D, N, and S. NIAL : LUMGUN : EAISTI: CEUS : THANA : EPTIE : MAL : MUEU : PUSTEA: SINA : DOTIE : DUPGALS : KONA : OS : ATHISI : ATI. In my Runic and other Monumental Re-mains, etc., I trans lated Kona " Keen," following Professor Miinch, though differing from him in the reading and translation in other respects. I have more lately been informed by my friend David Forbes, Esq., F.R.S., a Manxman and brother to the late much lamented Professor Bd. Forbes, that in the wild and more primitive interior of Norway the word Kona is still used for Wife, to which the Kunu of the previously named in scription approximates. Further than this, Kona is not the geni tive, as it ought to be if rendered JTeem, and agreeing •wi'iih.Bufgals. It is also questionable if such a word as " os" occurs in the accusative for -whom; but, remembering that the Manx had no rune for h, it may weU be put for " Hos," i. e., " huoes," in the genitive signifying of -whom or -whose. The translation of the inscription will then be — "Niel Lumgun erected this cross to Maelmore, His foster D 34 THE EUNIC INSCEIPTIONS child, the daughter of Dugald, whose wife (widow) Athisi he possessed." This makes very plain sense. Niel Lumgun married Athisi, the widow of Dugald; hence Maelmore, the daughter of Dugald by Athisi, would become the step-daughter or foster- child of Lumgun. Mr. Carr, objecting to Athisi as a proper name of a woman, conceives that it may be put for the word ATViSTi, whioh is dative and ablative, from ATVIST, " existence" or "being", and would render the latter part of the inscription "whose wife (or widow) in lifetime he had". In an extract, apparently from the Niala Saga, contained in the Antiquitates Scandicce, we learn that in the year 996 the Nialsons Grim and Helgi, together with one Kari, slew in Man Dungal, son of the King of Man, and that in 1014 one Gunnr Lambasonr was slain by Kari in Rossey. The Niel Lumgun of the above inscription looks so like Gunnr Lambasonr that we might possibly connect him or his kin with it. The inscription joins a Niel Lumgun with a Dugald, and Kari slew both a Dugald and a Gunnr Lambasonr. If this Dugald were the son of the King of Man in 996, he was son of Godred III and brother of Reginald II, of the line of Orry. But all the names are so common in Manx history of that date that it is quite unsafe to connect these monuments with any particular persons. There was a Helgi, King of Man in 894; and according to the Egilla Saga one Nial or Neil was king in 914, and we have before (inscription xm) met with the name Grim, but we have no right to connect the Grim of that inscription -with the Grim the son of Nial and brother of Helgi of the Niala Saga. In connection with the supposition that the Dugald of our inscription might be the son of Goddred III and an elder brother of Reginald II, it may be well to note that, as before observed, the Manx having no rune for h, the ATI of the inscrip tion may be put for hati, signifying "called" or "named", and the KONA may be translated in the higher sense of " Queen". Hence kona os athisi ati might even be rendered " Queen by OP THE ISLE OP MAN. 35 US in lifetime called". We can well imagine Maelmore, the granddaughter of Godred III, to be called "Queen" on the death of her father Dugald. Perhaps she died soon after her father. Her step-father, Niel Lumgun, who erected the cross, would certainly be the enemy of Kari who slew Dugald, and so afterwards engaging with him in Ross, was Himself kflled by the hand of the slayer of his step-daughter's own father. This cross may therefore have been erected to a Queen of Man, whose name was Maelmore. XVIII. The only remaining Manx Runic inscription, as far as at present known, is that which is given in Camden's Britannia, Gibson's edition, p. 1458, and which is from a stone said to have been built into the wall of the old church of Kirk Michael. It is in the same later Manx Runes as the last noticed inscription. Casts of it are in the possession of Sir Henry Dryden, Bart., of Canons Ashby, and in the Museum of the Archseological Institute, which were taken by Mr. BaUey. The stone cannot now be found. THe inscription, which runs thus, is imperfect : — STEA : BS : LAIPA : FUSTEA : GUTHAN : THAN : SON : ILAN. (See fig. XVIII.) The "Stra" must be part of "Fostra," and in the accusative case. The "Guthan" wiU be the same as "Godhan" or "Good- Han," good, whilst the "Han" may be put for "lUan," ill or evil. Mr. Carr thinks that the ES leipa may be read as a com pound word ISLEIPA, the accusative of isleipi, ice-giant; and that the word Eft may Have come before the first Fostra ; and that " A," towards, is understood before Than. He proposes, therefore, to read the inscription (eft : fo) : stea : isleifa : POSTEA : GUDHAN : (a) : THAN : SON : ILAN, and translate it — " To foster father Isleif, the good foster father, towards an evil son." I can conjecture no better rendering for this obscure and fragmentary inscription. d2 36 IV. RUSHEN ABBEY IN THE ISLE OF MAN. BY THE EBV. J. G. CUMMING, M.A., P.G.S. The ruins of Rushen Abbey, or of the Abbey of St. Mary of Russin, are situated on the western bank of the Silverburn, close by the village of BallasaUa, in the parish of Malew, and Sheading of Rushen, two miles north of Castletown, Isle of Man. This abbey was an offshoot of the Abbey of St. Mary of Furness, which received a grant of lands in the Isle of Man from Olave Godredson, King of Man and the Isles, in or about the year 1134. The original charter of Olave, granting these lands to Furness Abbey, does not appear, but reference is made to it in another charter of the same king, and of that same year (1134), which is preserved amongst the Chartce Miscellanece in the office of the Duchy of Lg,ncaster (vol. i, fol. 30 ; see also vol. vii, Manx Society, p. 1), granting for ever to the Abbey of St. Mary of Furness the election of the Bishop of Sodor and Man. These grants were subsequently confirmed by Godred and Reginald, Kings of Man in 1154 and 1188, and by a bull of Eugenius III to Furness Abbey in 1162, and further by bulls of Urban III in 1186, and Celestine III in 1194. It is also stated in the Chronicon Mannice et Insularuvi (writ ten by the monks of Rushen Abbey), under date 1134, that " Olavus Rex dedit Yvoni Abbati de Furness, partem terre sue in Mannia ad abbatiam constituendam in loco qui vocatur Russin". It appears. However, from the chartulary of Furness, EUSHEN ABBEY IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 37 that this grant of lands had in the first instance been offered to the Abbey of Rievalle or Rivaulx, — " Certa terra in Mannia data fuit Abbatie de Rievalle ad construendam Abbatiam de Russin, postea tamen data fuit Abbatie Furnesie ad constru endam eam de ordine Cisterciensi ubi modo scituata est et sic non de Rievalle sed de Furnesio exi-rit." In the aforesaid bull of Eugenius III mention is also made of a monastery of St. Leoc in the Isle of Man, — " In Mannia ex dono nobilis viri Olavi, Regis Insularum, terras de Carnec- let usque ad Monasteriam Sancti Leoc cum appendiciis suis"; from which we must conclude either that the Abbey of Rushen was originally known by the name of St. Leoc, or that another monastery Had previously existed in the Isle of Man, which became absorbed in that of St. Mary of Rushen. Some coun tenance is given to this latter supposition by the statement of Saoheverell in his Short Survey of the Isle of Man (p. 34, vol. i, Manx Society), that " one Mac Marus, a person of great prudence, moderation, and justice, in the year 1098 laid the first foundation of the Abbey of Rushen in the town of Balla- salley"; and He goes on further to say (p. 36) that " Olave, the third son of Goddard Crovan, anno 1134, gave the Abbey of Rushen, some years before begun by Mac Marus, to Evan (Ivo), Abbot of Furness, which was to serve as a nursery to the church." Unfortunately, SachevereU has not referred us to his authorities in support of this statement. It appears. However, not improbable that some religious house had existed on the site afterwards occupied by Rushen Abbey, and at a date prior to 1134, from the circumstance that in the Chronicon Mannioi, though mention is made of the grant of lands in 1134, no notice occurs of the erection of build ings until 1192, when the monks transferred themselves to Douglas for four years, during which they were engaged in enlarging their accommodation at Rushen. The church of the fraternity was not completed and consecrated untfl 1257, in the episcopate of Richard Bishop of the Sudereys, in the fifth 38 EUSHEN ABBEY IN year ofthe reign of Magnus Olaveson, when Simon was abbot. (See Chronicon Mannice, anno 1257.) We Have, however, the records of interments, within the Abbey, of several iUustrious persons prior to this last date, who were chiefly connected with the royal family in Man. Thus Reginald, Bishop of Sodor and Man, nephew to Olave Kleining, King of Man, was buried here in 1225; so were King Olave Godredson (Olave the Black) in 1237, and his son Reginald in 1248; also the Norwegian, Jarl Gospatrick, in 1240. After this, the last Norwegian King of Man, Magnus, was interred in the abbey in 1265. It is not improbable that Olave Kleining Himself was trans ferred Hither after his barbarous murder by his nephew, Regi nald Haroldson, at Ramsey in 1154, as there is no account given in the Chronicon Mannice of his interment elsewhere, and the monks of that religious foundation would doubtless feel anxious to have within the precincts of their House the body of their chief patron. The so-called "abbot stone" of Eushen is evidently the coffin-lid of some military person, and of the fourteenth cen tury, as will be seen on referring to the representation of it given in my Runic and other Monumental Remains of the Isle of Man, plate xm, fig. 43. Its original site is not known, as it has been shifted from time to time in the garden where it now lies buried. It was, however, dug up for the inspection of the members of the Cambrian Archasological Association on the occasion of their visit in the year 1865. One would have thought it more desirable to place it in the vaulted passage, shortly to be mentioned, where it would be protected from the rain; and might, if necessary, be also secured from mischievous persons by an iron railing. The present remains of the Abbey are in such a state that, without an extensive exploration of foundation waUs, any satis factory assignment of its various portions seems hopeless. The establishment must, however, have been very extensive. There are undoubted evidences of its having been fortified. THE ISLE OP MAN. 39 Chaloner's drawing, made about two centuries ago, is so rude and imperfect that little more is to be leamt from it of the original arrangements, than from an inspection of the existing ruins. There were, according to the drawing, five towers, all of them pierced with square-headed openings, built of rude masonry, and exhibiting no decided architectural details. Of these five, three alone now remain, which have been partially converted into appendages to two modern dweUing-houses. The only decided architectural detail is the plain chamfered arch given in the cut, existing in one of the towers which 40 EUSHEN ABBEY IN formed a part of the church. . Making allowance for the nature of the building materials found on the island, and the little progress which architecture could have made in such a remote and inaccessible spot, it may be assigned, in spite of its older appearance, to the period when the monks restored or rebuilt the church, namely the middle of the thirteenth century. A small, single light, of more doubtful date, is also here given. It exists in the exterior face of the wall above. At a spot which we might conclude to be the western end of the Abbey Church, we have a remarkable portion of a vaulted passage. It may have been simplj the substructure of some part of the domestic buildings, though there are ap pearances about it leading to a suspicion that it may, in some way, have been connected with the crypt. On one of the key stones of the arch there are traces of a socket, from which might Have been suspended the iron hook of a corpse-Hght ; and it is, moreover, certain that the remains of bodies have been found in the same spot. Here also is said to have been the entrance to a subterranean passage leading to Rushen Castie. To make such a passage must have caused no Httle trouble to the excavators in those days, as they would have had to tunnel through two miles of hard mountain Umestone. There are, however, few abbeys or casties without a simflar legend, and of the same amount of credibiUty. A large, well-proportioned hall remains neariy intact, save a part of one of the sides, which Has been rebuilt. At first sight it might be taken as the refectory, but was more probably in tended for the use of the lay brethren or strangers. *• '•'V c V/ ./?¦*' "¦i-ai./u//}r- RUINED TOWEKj RUSHEN ABBEY, ISLE OF MAN. THE ISLE OP MAN. 41 There is also remaining one well-proportioned tower, of somewhat moderate dimensions, engaged in the curtain waU which once surrounded the monastery. On each of two of its sides, commanding the curtain, has been an opening which projected on rude but bold corbeling. (See the cut.) Whether these openings were simply windows, or intended for defence of the curtain, or even used as latrince (although the situation would in that case be singular), is a matter of doubt. As already stated, it is by no means easy to form any opinion as to the date of these remains of the Abbey, from the absence of all safe indications, the rudeness of the material, and the scarcity of contemporaneous structures in the island. The tower at Bishop's Court, although somewhat different in proportions, is probably of the same date. Rushen Castle it self, notwithstanding the antiquity popularly assigned to it, is probably not older thau the thirteenth, and more Hkely, is of the fourteenth, century, although its original form of a plain, square keep, before the additions to its four faces, points to the period of Newcastle and Rochester Castles. THe discre pancy may be, perhaps, explained by the circumstances of its builders being Scandinavian. It has, at least, been said to bear a striking resemblance to the Castle of Elsinore. With regard to the other ecclesiastical buildings which may have to be compared with Rushen Abbey, we may note that, whilst no portion of the Cathedral at Peel appears to be earlier than the thirteenth century, the tower and nave belong to the fourteenth. The only remaining portions of the Friary of Bechmaken, in Kirk Arbory (or Kirk Cairbre), founded by the Grey Friars in 1373, are evidently of fifteenth century work. On the whole, it may be suggested that the remains at Rushen Abbey, or at least the greater part of them, belong to the thirteenth century. We may assign, perhaps, some small portion to the fourteenth. A few tiles have been found which are nearer the fifteenth than the fourteenth. As to the original extent of the buildings, although not as to 42 RUSHEN ABBEY IN their age, some information may be obtained from the account of the lead, timber, slate, etc., of the Abbey sold at its dissolu tion, and which are given in RoUs 32, 34, 36, 37 Henry VIH, formerly at Carlton Ride, and now doubtlessly in the Record Office. In one of the Rolls is given an interesting account of the silver plate sold to the Earl of Derby for the sum of £38 : 8 : 8;. amongst which occur the foUowing items, viz., " four chahces, one crouche {i.e., the abbot's pastoral staff), one censer, one cross, two little Headless crosses, one ship {navicula), one Hand and one byshope's head (probably reliquaries), four cruets, eleven spoons, with two standing cups, two pocula (called ale-pottes) with covers, one flat pece, one salt, two masers (wooden drinking cups silver mounted), and one pix of silver." A computus of the demesnes property of the Abbey, occurs in a Roll, 1540-41, a transcript of which is in the possession of Mark Quayle, Esq., the present Clerk of the Rolls in the Isle of Man, and which I had printed in extenso in my Story- of Rushen Castle and Rushen Abbey. It is given below." If, however, so httle can be ascertained of the age and extent of Rushen Abbey, the same, fortunately, cannot be said of the little adjoining bridge caUed the " Crossag," buflt, no doubt, by the improving Cistercian monks. From its retire.d situation, fortunately, it Has been spared improvements, or any serious alterations ; so that we have here an example of a thirteenth century bridge nearly in the same state as it was left by the builders. On account of its picturesque position at the foot of the miU-dam, which may have been raised by the Cistercians themselves, it is well worth the notice, not merely of the anti quarian, but also of the ordinary tourist. Its breadth in the centre does not exceed three feet three inches in the clear,— a space evidently pointing to times when ordinary carts were not in use. One of the arches on the opposite side to that given in the THE ISLE OP MAN. 43 accompanying accurate illustration by Mr. Blight, has been subsequently repaired and a plain semicircular arch substituted for the pointed one (see plate) . At one end (the westem) of the bridge wiU be seen a small subsidiary arch somewhat of the Caernarvon type, but an ori ginal portion of the structure. From its smallness, as well as from the material at hand, such an arrangement is so natural that it may be assigned to any time, and may weU give the idea of the more regular Caernarvon (or, as it is sometimes called, the square-headed trefoil), which subsequently was in many cases adopted, for its appearance as well as for its con venient form. We Have several doorways of this type in the Castle of Rushen. The following is the computus above referred. The original is not at present to be found. Rolls of a similar nature are preserved amongst the Ministers' Accounts, with the Aug mentation Office Documents, in the Record Office : viz., a Computus from April 15th to Michaelmas, 32 Henry VIll ; Michaelmas, 33 Henry VIII, to the same feast 34 Henry VIII ; the Hke accounts, 36 to 37 Henry VIII, and 37 to 38 Henry VIII ; and a series of Rolls, five in number, from the acces sion of Edward VI to the sixth year of his reign. The original Roll, of which the portion relating to Rushen Abbey is sub joined, may Have been lost at the fire at the Houses of Parlia ment, the records of the Augmentation Office having been at that period kept at Westminster. A portion of the Roll, as to the Demesne Lands, Has been printed in Caley's edition of Dugdale's Monasticon, vol. v, p, 256. Russhing nuper Monasterium) infra Insulam de Man. J Computus Roberti Calcott deputati prenobilis Comitis Der- bie, occupatoris terrarum et possessionum ibidem, a festo 44 EUSHEN ABBEY IN Sancti MichaeHs ArchangeH, anno regni Henrici, Dei gratia AngHe, Francie, et Hibernie Regis, fidei Defensoris, ac in terris supremi capitis AngHcane et Hibernice Ecclesie, xxxiij'^",* usque idem festum anno regni Regis predicti xxxiij, scihcet per unum annum integrum. [1540-41.] Arreragia nulla. Quia primus Computus dicti Computatoris. Summa nulla. FiEMA Terrarum Dominicalium. Sed respondet de xj. 1. xvj. s. X. d. de firma scitus nuper monasterii cum edificiis, graun- giis, stabulis, ortis, pomeriis, infra precinctum dicti nuper monasterii existentibus, videlicet, pro firma scitus dicte nuper domus cum edificiis, graungiis, stabulis, ortis, pomeriis, eidem pertinentibus, continentis per estimationem j. acr. dim. iiij. s. et uno clause terree arrabilis vocato the Kreketts, ac uno clause vocato Bole Makketts continentibus per estimationem xl. acr. XX. s. cum uno clause vocato Garland Hill continente per esti mationem xxiv. acr. xij. s. ac uno clause vocato Wynowehill continente per estimationem xviij. acr. ix. s. cum uno clauso vocato Bouleton continente xxiv. acr. pasture arrabilis xij. s. uno clauso vocato Grete Close jacente subtus Kirkmalewe ac ij. parvis clausuris jacentibus juxta aquam in orientali parte earumdem, continentibus per estimationem Ix. acr. pasture xxx. s. cum uno clauso vocato Dalerache continente per esti mationem xxxiv. acr. pasture xij. s. uno clauso vocato Grete Barley fielde continente per estimationem xxx. acr. pasture xv. s. cum uno clauso vocato Depefold continente per estimationem acr. pasture iij. s. uno clauso vocato Littill Barlefold continente per estimationem iv. acr. ao uno clauso vocato the Cot continente per estimationem xvj. acr. x. s. uno clause vocato the Brome continente per estimationem x. acr. v. s. uno clauso vocato ReynehuUett continente per estimationem viij. acr. iv. s. uno clauso vocato the Nuttfolds, et uno clauso vocato Cotters grounde cum campo jacente sub le Broome ac the lawe Gayre * Sic in the transcript, probably for 32nd Henry VIII. THE ISLE OP MAN. 45 SkynnershiU diviso in iij. clausis, continentibus per estima tionem XV. acr. vii. s. vi. d. cum uno clauso vocato Stockfeld continente per estimationem xxiv. acr. pasture arr' xij. s. uno clauso vocato the Horse Close continente per estimationem xv. acr. vij. s. vj. d. uno clauso vocato White Fold cum una parcella vocata Symondes Grounde, cum una parcella vocata Corens Grounde, cum una alia parcella de le Horse Close, continenti bus per estimationem vij. acr. terre arrabilis et pasture iij. s. vj. d. ac uno clauso vocato Grete Belownde cum una parcella prati eidem pertinente continentibus in toto xxvj. acr. xiij. s. et uno clauso vocato Whynny Close cum una parva clausura continen tibus in toto X. acr. v. s. ac uno clauso de Corse Meadowe vocato Denysc Close continente per estimationem vj. acr. iij. s. cum uno clauso vocato Littill Belownde continente per esti mationem XX. acr. terr. x. s. et uno clauso vocato the Lond Folds ajacente Skiprig, cum uno clauso vocato Calf Close, ac cum uno alio clauso vocato Guley Felde, ac uno parcella prati adjacentis, continentibus in toto xvj. acr. viij. s. ao cum uno clauso vocato Skiprig continente per estimationem xx. acr. pasture arr' x. s. ij. clausis de Corse Medowe called the Grete Medowe continentibus per estimationem xx. acr. xx. s. et cum uno parvo clauso jacente juxta le White Stone continente per estimationem ij. acr. terr. xvj. d. In toto ut supra. Summa. xj. £. xvj. s. x. d. Parochia de Kirkmalewe infra Sheddinge de' Russhinge. — Tenentes ad voluntateyn. Et de xxviij.' £. xiiij. s. vij. d. de Redditibus et Pirmis Tenencium ad voluntatem Domini Regis ibidem, solvendis qualibet septimana, quantum capi potest, per coUectorem voca tum Le More, ad hujusmodi recipienda assignatum, juxta anti- quam consuetudinem Insule predicte ; ita quod coUecta perso- luta foret inter festa Sancti Michaelis ArchangeH.* Videlicet, * This obscure passage may be explained by the corresponding statement in another EoU, as follows : — " De firmis tenencium ad voluntatem Domini 46 EUSHEN ABBEY IN de WiUelmo Quayle pro uno tenemento cum pertinentfls per tempus Computi vj. s. Johanne Brideson pro uno tenemento ibidem per idem tempus, vj. s. Nicholao McQuayU pro tene mento XV. s. Marke McStoyU pro tenemento iiij. s. De re licta Gilberti Symyn pro tenemento ix. s. Johanne Kayecowe pro tenemento vj. s. Johanne Andrewe pro tenemento xij. d. Gilberto Kewyne pro tenemento vij. s. iiij. d. Patricco Quy- deake pro tenemento iiij. s. Johanne Symen pro tenemento ix. s. vj. d. Gybbon Gellyne pro tenemento vj. s. Paulo Qaydeak pro tenemento iiij. s. viij. d. Johanne Dogane pro tenemento iij. s. iiij. d. Johanne McQuayU pro tenemento XV. s. Donoldo Fergher pro tenemento vj. s. Johanne Bell pro tenemento xviij. d. Donold Symen et matre sua pro tene mento vj. s. iij. d. Waltero Bell pro tenemento vj. s. iiij. d. Johanne Taghertt pro tenemento xij. s. vj. d. Johanne Bell pro tenemento ix. s. Waltero Bell pro tenemento vuj. s. Donald Brideson pro tenemento per annum ix. s. Nele Dog- Ham pro tenemento vj. s. viij. d. Uxore Rieardi Brideson pro tenemento vj. s. viij. d. Uxore Rieardi Brideson pro tene mento ix. s. WiUelmo Andrewe pro tenemento iij. s. inj. d. Waltero Harrison pro tenemento x. s. viij. d. Fynloo Makk kroUott pro tenemento iiij. s. Thoma Harrison pro tenemento viij. s. Waltero Bell pro tenemento iiij. s. Thoma McKeyn pro tenemento vj. s. xj. d. Relicta Finglo Fergher pro tene mento xij. s. Johanne Brideson pro tenemento vj. s. Fynglo Brideson pro tenemento iiij. s. vj. d; Waltero Taghert pro tenemento iiij. s. vj. d. Fynglo Bell pro tenemento iiij. s. vj. d. Fynglo Fergher pro tenemento x. s. vj. d. Esotto Inequisten pro tenemento ij. s. Johanne Andrewe pro tenemento ix. s. Eegis ibidem, solvendis per eosdem tenentes ad manus CoUeotoris vocati les More, ad hoc colligendum deputati, qualibet septimana, quantum idem Col lector de eisdem tenontibus in qualibet septimana coUigere potest, ita quod quilibet tenens ibidem solvat totum annualem redditum suum per vel ante festum S. Michaelis ArchangeH anno 34. Eegis predicti, iu clauso hujus com- poti accidente." Le More, or The Moar, is a Manx parish officer, whose chief duty now is to collect waifs and estrays, deodands and escheats. THE ISLE OF MAN. 47 Marke Fergher pro uno tenemento ij. s. Finglo Fergher pro uno tenemento vj. s. Reginald Harrison pro uno tenemento xviij. s. Ricardo Fergher pro uno tenemento viij. s. Johanne Blayne vj. s. viij. d. ReHcta Roger Mackelewe pro uno tene mento iij. s. iiij. d. Edmund Mc elewe pro uno tenemento uj. s. iiij. d. Danald Blayne pro uno tenemento vj. s. viij. d. Johanne Brideson pro uno tenemento vj. s. viij. d. Mold Rus seU pro uno tenemento xij. s. WiUelmo Stephenson pro uno tenemento ij. s. Johanne McFinloo pro uno tenemento ij. s. Patrie McFayll pro uno tenemento iiij. s. Johanne Pargher pro uno tenemento iiij. s. WiUelmo Kayne pro uno tenemento V. s. vj. d. Thoma Edwards pro uno tenemento iiij. s. Johanne Gracye pro uno tenemento iiij. s. Johanne Quy Deake pro uno tenemento iiij. s. Thoma Fergher pro uno tenemento v. s. Walter Kayn pro uno tenemento vj. s. Henrico Ratcliffe pro uno tenemento vj. s. Thoma Harrison pro uno tenemento vj. s. Relicta Henrici Quanlye* pro uno tenemento xviij. s. iiij, d. Jacobo Taylor pro uno tenemento v. s. Uxore Wil- lelmi Smythe pro uno tenemento iiij. s. Reginald Barett et Johanne Blyef pro uno tenemento v. s. Ricardo Halfall pro uno tenemento v. s. Philippo Skylleskorn capellano pro uno tenemento xxvij. s. vj. d. Thoma Russheton pro tenemento cum pertinentis x. £. vj. s. viij. d. Roberto Lit ter Land pro tenemento et terris xxxij. s. iiij. d. Johanne A. Moore pro tenemento et terris xxxiij. s. iiij. d. In toto ut supra ; annuatim solvendis ad festum Sancti Michaelis tan tum. Bt de xij. s. iiij. d. de Firma unius Molendini aquatici Bladorum vocati TenetJ Lake, in tenura Laurencii Kyghley, persolvenda ad festum Sancti Johannis Babtiste tantum. Et de X. s. de Firma unis Molendini Bladorum Aquatici, vocati Fer gher Mill, in tenura Johannis Quideake, per annum solvenda ad festum Sancti Johannis Babtiste tanturn. Bt de x. s. de Firma Molend' Bladorum Aquatici vocat' Abbay Mill, et Grag * Quantyne, in another account. t Oi' Jenet Lake ? t Bailey, in another account. 48 EUSHEN ABBEY IN Mill, cum uno croft eidem adjacen-te, in tenura Rogeri Deacon- son, per annum solvenda ad Festum Sancti Johannis Babtistefi tantum, et tenens tenetur reparari {sic) in omnibus. Summa. xxxj. £. xvj. s. xj. d., Firma Cotagiorum de BallasaUa villa. Et de xxxix. s. de Firma Cotagiorum in viUa de BallasaUa scituatorum, prope et juxta Monasterium predictum ; videhcet, unius cotagii in tenura Rieardi Dogan, x. d. unis cotagii in tenura Donald Qwynne, xij. d. j. cotagii in tenura Wiflelmi McQwynne, xviij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Willelmi Quidake ij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Willelmi Smythe ij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Rieardi Halsall iij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Johannis Fargher viij. d. j. cotagii in tenura Nele Bell viij. d. j. cottagii in tenura Walteri McGarmot iij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Johannis Glover viij. d. j. cotagii in tenura Johannis Kyrre viij. d. j. cotagii in tenura relicte nuper Henrici Quan tye xvj. d, j. cot agii in tenura Thome Mason ij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Thome McFingloe ij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Marke Wodds viij. d. j. cottagii in tenura Johannis Taylor ij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Relicte David McQwayne xvj. d. j. cotagii in tenura Roberti Kedrawe xvj. d. j. cottagii in tenura Willelmi McQuayn ij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Stephani McKedrawe xj. d. j. cottagii in tenura Willelmi Fergher x. d. j. cottagii in tenura Rieardi Fisher xvj. d. j. cottagii in tenura Thome Qwynne xvuj. d. j. cottagii in tenura Mc gilhonyld iiij. s. j. cotagii in tenura Roberti Walker xvj. d. In toto ut supra. Summa. xxxix. s. Parochia Sancti Germanic de Glenfaba Sheding. \ Bt de x. 1. xix. s. v. d. de Redditiljus et Pirmis Tenenolunt Domini Regis ad voluntatem, infra parochiam predictam. Videlicet, Johannis Gierke pro uno tenemento cum pertinen- the isle op man. 49 ciis, ad xij.* solvendis septimanatim, quantum capi potest. Henrici Smythe pro uno tenemento xij. Willelmi McKayne pro tenemento xv. s. iij. d. Johannis Qwayne pro tenemento xij. s. vj. d. Finlo McGilcroste pro tenemento vij. s. vj. d. Donold McQwayn pro tenemento vj. s. iiij. d. Thome Howard pro tenemento iij. s. Johannis Haliwall pro tenemento iij. s. Relicte Johannis Mc qwayn pro tenemento iiij. s. iiij. d. Gil berti Colbyn pro uno tenemento iiij. s. iiij. d. Donald Qwhayn pro uno tenemento iiij. s. iiij. d. Reginald McQwheyn pro uno tenemento xviij. s. Willelmi McCayn pro uno tenemento vij. s. iij. d. Johannis McKeyn pro uno tenemento vij. s. iiij. d. Willelmi Stephenson pro uno tenemento xxxiij . s . iiij . d . Reginald McOayn pro tenemento vj. s. vj. d. Johannis McGybrayce pro tenemento vj. s. vj. d. Reginold McCayn pro uno tene mento xij. s. WiUelmi McGilcrist pro tenemento iiij. s. Thome McGflcrist pro uuo tenemento ix. s. Uxoris Petri Colbyn vj. s. vj. d. pro tenemento suo. Roberti Colbyn pro tenemento vj. s. vj. d. Donold McQwhayn pro tenemento viij. s. j. d. Johannis Mc qwyane pro tenemento viij. s. j. d. Hugonis Parker pro tenemento xxij. d. In toto ut supra. Et de xvij. s. j. d. de Redditibus et Firmis Cotagiorum in Holme towne, in Glen faba ; viz., de Richardo Ithell xx. d. Uxore Petri Brevell iiij. d. Johanne Haworthe xvj. d. Wil lelmo Norias xiiij. d. Johanne Hutchon ij. d. Maryano Hynckyeij.d. Willelmo Ascogh, xiij. d. Willelmo Kerrett iiij. d. Roberto Alayne vij. d. Johanne BoUand iiij. d. Constabilar' viij. d. Cristiana Inecayne xxij. d. Rogero Thompson iiij. d. Hugone Prescote v. d. Rogero Dawson xix. d. Thoma HoUand iij. d. Recept' de le Pale xvj. d. Hugone perker ij. d. In toto ut supra. Summa. xj. 1. xvj. s. vj. d, Sulbye. Bt de xj. 1. iiij. s. viij. d. de Redditibus et Firmis Tenencium * Sic, probably xij. s. The like omission appears to occur in the following item. E 50 EUSHEN ABBEY IN Domini Regis ad voluntatem ibidem, solvendis de septimana. Videhcet, de Paulo McKrawe pro tenemento viij. s. Wfllelmo McKrawe pro tenemento viij. s. Edmund McCrawe pro tene mento vj. s. Paulo McCrawe pro tenemento v. s. Huyn Standish pro tenemento xxiiij. s. Demyster pro clausura viij. s. viij. d. Thoma Trowthton pro tenemento iiij. s. vj. d. Gilberto McCarre pro tenemento iiij. s. vj. d. Gilberto Gawen pro tene mento iiij. s. vj. d. WiUelmo Caysmyn pro tenemento vij. s. vj. d. Patrie Cash pro tenemento v. s. viij. d. Gilberto Casy- mound pro tenemento ij. s. Donold Kyllycorne pro tenemento xij. s. Willelmo Kyllop pro tenemento ix. s. Paulo McKarram pro tenemento xij. s. Johanne Thorman pro tenemento xij. s. Willelmo McKewn ix. s. Willelmo McCashe ix. s. Patrie McKillope pro tenemento vj. s. Ricardo McKillop pro tene? mento viij. s. Thoma McKiUop pro tenemento vj. s. Thoma McGarret pro tenemento vij. s. iiij. d. Willelmo McKillop pro tenemento viij. d. Roberto McKerran pro tenemento v. s. Edmund McKerron pro tenemento ix. s. Gilberto McOtter pro tenemento v. s. Danold Kyllop pro cottagio xviij. d. Marin' Ine Crayne pro cotagio vj. d. Relicta McQwyne pro cotagio vj. d. et Bahe Calyworre Ine Casse vj. d. De vj. s. de firma unis molendini ibidem hic non respondet, eo quod jacet vastum et inoccupatum, et nil inde levatur per tempus unis compoti, ex sacramento computatoris. In toto ut supra. Summa. xj. 1. iiij. s. viij. d. Skynscowe in parochia Sancti) Lonani de Garf Sheding. j Bt de Iv. s. viij. d. de redditibus et firmis tenencium Domini Regis ibidem, solvendis septimanatim. Videhcet, de Gilberto McCloyne pro tenemento xvj. s. iiij. d. Roberto Lownye pro tenemento xij. s. Johanne McOtter pro tenemento iij. s. vj. d. Patrie McFelys pro tenemento viij. s. uij. d. Johanne McFelys pro tenemento iij. s. vj. d. Donald McFelys pro cotagio xviij. d. Gilberto Lowneye pro cotagio xiiij. d. Patrick Lownye pro THE ISLE OP MAN. 51 cotagio ij. s. ij. d. Johanne Lownye pro cotagio viij. d. et Willelmo Lownye pro cotagio vj. d. In toto ut supra. Summa, Iv. s. viij. d. Spiritualitates . Bt de vij. 1. vj. s. viij. d. de Firma totius Rectorie de Kirke- criste in Sheding ; necnon omnium terrarum et tenementorum quorumcumque infra parochiam de Kirkecriste predictam, dicte nuper Domui pertinentium, nencon omnes et omnimodo decime allecium' except omnino et reserv' omnes et omnimodo porciones Episcopi exeuntes de Reotoria predicta, aceciam Decime j. ba- telli Domino reservat' per annum ut supra; sicut dimiss' Owino Norresse Clerico, per Identuram pro termino {blank) datam anno Domini MD xxv*°; solvend' ad Festum pascHe tantum. De decimis allecium captorum infra parochiam predictam, vide licet, de qualibet cimba xij. d.. Hoc anno ml, quia nulla piscaria ibidem accidebat. Et de iiij. 1. xij. s. de Firma Rectorie Ec clesie parochialis de Kirk Harbary, alias de Sancto Columb, sicut dimisse Johanni Gardiner ad voluntatem Domini, tantum modo exceptis et reservatis porcionibus Episcopi et Vicarii per annum ut supra, solvend' ad Festum Pasche tantum. Bt de xvj. 1. xiiij. s. de Exitibus Rectorie de Kirkmalewe nuper in manibus dicti nuper Monasterii, per annum ut supra. Bt de hij. s. iiij. d. de Exitibus et proficuis Rectorie ecclesie paro- chiaHs de Kirke Santon per annum, ut supra, sicut nuper in manibus dicti nuper Monasterii, per tempus hujus compoti. Et de Isvj. s. viij. d. de Firma Rectorie de Kirke lownan, in tenura Jacobi Clerke per Indenturam, ut asserit, minime adhuc visam, omnes et omnimodo proficue Rectorie, exceptis por cionibus Episcopi et Vicarii per annum ut supra, solvend' ad Festum pasche tantum. Summa, xxx-iiij. I. xij. s. viij. d. Summa TotaHs oneris, cvj. 1. ij. s. iij. d. Feoda cum Salariis. Idem computat in Feodis prepositorum, videlicet, Lez Ser- e2 52 EUSHEN ABBEY IN geaunts, videlicet infra parochiam Sancti Lupi xiij. s. iiij. d. ; Glenfaba vj. s. viij. d.; Solbye vij. s. vj. d. et Skynscowe iiij.s.; in toto pro uno anno integro finiente in Festo Sancti MichaeHs ArchangeH infra tempus hujus Compoti accidente, xxxj. s. vj. d. Et in Sallario Capellani celebrantis infra Castellum de Cas tell Towne, ex antiqua Fudacione, ad Iiij. s. iiij. d. per annum, videlicet, in allocacione Hujusmodi per tempus hujus compoti, Hij. s. iiij. d. Et in Feodo Thome Norrisse capitalis senescalh Terrarum ibidem, ad Ixvj. s. viij. d. per annum, videlicet in allocacione Hujusmodi, per tempus Hujus compoti Ixvj. s. viij. d. Et in Feodo Thome Sainesburye occupantis officium de le Demester ibidem, ad xx. s. per annum, videlicet, in allocacione hujusmodi per tempus hujus compoti, xx. s. Bt in Feodo {blank) Contrarotulatoris Insule pro Factura Librorum dicta rum, ad XX. s. per annum, videlicet in allocacione hujusmodi per tempus Hujus Compoti, xx. s. Bt in Feodo dicti Thome Sainesburye subsenescalli terrarum et Curiarum ibidem, ad XX. s. per annum, videlicet in persolucione hujusmodi per tem pus hujus compoti, xx. s. ; et in Feodo Roberti Calcott Recep- toris terrarum dicti nuper Prioratus, ad Hij. s. iiij. d. per annum, videlicet, in allocacione hujusmodi per tempus hujus compoti, Iiij. s. iiij. d. Summa. xiij. 1. iiij. s. x. d. Et in denariis in Compote Willelmi BHthman Receptoris Domini Regis ibidem, onerati ut pro totis denariorum summis receptis per Thomam Comitem Derbie, de Exitibus et Reven- cionibus Officu dicti Receptoris, ac per ipsum Thomam minime solutis super Determinacionem hujus Compoti, — uij.'"' xij. 1. xvij. s. V. d. Summa, iiij .^^ xij. I. xvij. s. v. d. Summa AUocacionum et Liberacionum predictarum cvj. 1. ij. s. iij. d. Que Summa Correspondet Summe totah predicte. Bt equ'.* * Probably for equat, or eguetur. THE ISLE OF MAN. 53 (From the "Chronicon Mannise," Johnstone's Translation.) LIMITS OP CHUECH LANDS IN THE ISLE OF MAN. I. This is the line that divides the king's lands from those be longing to the monastery of Russin : — It runs along the wall and ditch which is between Castleton and the Monks' Lands ; it vrinds to the south between the Monks' Meadow and M'Bwen's farm ; ascends the rivulet between Gylosen and the Monks' Lands ; turns to Hentraeth ; goes round Hentvaeth and TroUo-toft along the ditch and wall ; descends by the ditch and wall to the river near Oxwath ; turns up the same river to a rivulet between Ar-os-in and Staina ; goes down to the valley called Fane ; mounts up the ascent of the HiU called Wardfell ; descends to the brook Mourou ; ascends from the brook Mourou along the old wall to Rosfell ; descends along the same wall between Cornama and Tot-man-by ; descends obliquely along the same wall between Ox-raise-herad and Tot- man-by to the river called Corna. Corna is the boundary be tween the king and the monastery in that quarter to the ford which lies in "the Highway between Thorkel's farm, other wise Kirk Michael, and Herinstad ; the line then passes along the waU which is the limit between the above-mentioned Thor kel's estate and Bally-sallacH; it then descends obhquely along the same waU between Cross-Ivar-Builthan, and so surrounds Bally-sallach ; it then descends from Bally-saUacH along the waU and ditch to the river of Russin, as is weU known to the inhabitants ; it then winds along the banks of that river in different directions to the above-mentioned wall and ditch, which is the Hmit between the abbey land and that belonging to the castle of Russin. II. This is the hne that divides the lands of Kirkercus from the abbey lands :— It begins at the lake at Myreshaw which is 54 EUSHEN ABBEY IN caUed Hesca-nappayse ; and goes up to the dry moor directly from the place caUed Monenyrsana; along the wood to the place caUed Leabba-ankonathway ; it then ascends to Roselan as far as the brook Gryseth ; and so goes up to Glendrummy; and proceeds up to the king's way and the rock called Carig- eth as far as the Deep-pool ; and descends along the rivulet and Hath-aryegorman; and so descends along the river Sulahy to the wood of Myreshaw ; it incloses three islands in the lake of Myreshaw ; and descends along the old moor to Duf-loch ; and so winds along and ends in the place called Hescanakep- page. III. This is the line which divides the king's lands from those of the abbey towards Skemestor : — It begins from the entrance of the port called Lax-a; and goes up that river in a line under the mill to the glynn lying between St. Nicholas Chapel and the manor of Greta-stad ; it then proceeds by the old wall, as is known to the inhabitants, along the winding declivities of the mountains, till it comes to the rivulet between Toftar-as- mund and Ran-curlin ; it then descends to the boundaries of the manor called Orm's-house and Toftar^as-mund, and, as is known to the country people, descends to the sea. MINUTES OF THE PEEAMBULATION OF THE ABBEY TUEBARY. SINE ANNO. From the north corner of BoaUion Renny along an old hedgestead to the gill near St. Mary's WeU, and from the said Hedgestead to the westernmost of the three white stones on the side of Barool in a direct line, and so down by a long slate stone set up as a landmark, and across the old high-road by three slate stones, and so down by the south-west corner of the Folly Rent, and so across the new high-road at a large slate stone on the said road, and another and a white stone on THE ISLE OF MAN. 55 the opposite side of the ditch to the fern HiUock in the midst of the Curragh, grown over with rushes, by a Hillock of soads, to the joining of the rivulet of Soman Barowle and the Sbinan Rowany, and so down the said rivulet, the Cop, near Barool Mill, and so along the said Cop adjoining Keen Dhowag, and joining Kirk Patrick at Keen Dhowag, and so along the same as far as the same Oxloads, and then along the pathway ac cording to a boundary of the parishes, passing by a great stone opposite to Keon Slew Curragh, so to the south-west corner of Curragh Potmine at two stones there fixed, and so along the ditch and the edge of Pot-mine Curragh, joining Kirk Marown ^o the north-east comer of Rensheant land, and along the Cop from the said corner to Pot-mine rivulet, and so along the rivulet to the corner of Balla Nicholas Rent, and along the same to Shen Valley, and including Ton Vane's, the Bolt Dallys to Monoul Gate, and so adjoining the Largy Intack, and so along the corner of BalHn Renny aforesaid. 56 V. ROBERT THE BRUS BEFORE RUSHEN CASTLE. BY THE EEV. J. G. CUMMING, M.A., P.G.S. In the Chronicon Mannioe et Insularum, written by the monks of Rushen Abbey in the Isle of Man (see vol. iv, Manx Society, p. 195), there occurs this entry under date a.d. 1313 : — " Dominus Robertus rex Scociae applicuit apud Ramsa, vide licet octo decimo die Maii cum multitudine navium et die dominica sequenti transivit ad Moniales de Dufglas ubi per- noctavit; et die Lunae sequenti fecit obsessionem circa castrum de Russin, quod castrum dominus Dungawi Macdowal tenuit contra prsediotum dominum regem usque diem Martis proxi- mam post festum Sancti Barnabte Apostoli proximo sequenti, et ipso die dictus dominus rex dictum castellum adquisivit." It may be worth while to inquire what brought Robert the Brus on this distant expedition to Rushen Castle, and who was this " dominus Dungawi Macdowal" who held the fortress against him for more than three^ weeks, viz., from May the 18th to June llth. The answer to the latter question gives, as I think, the key to the former. This Dungawi Macdowal (called in Camden's copy of the Chronicon Mannice Dingawy, Dowil, ahd in the Annals of Ulster "the Lord Donegal O'Dowill") was Duncan Macdougal, or Duncan de Brgadia. He was the second son of Alaster de Ergadia, Thane of Glasserie and Knapdale, and Lord of Lorn. He is called by Chalmers " the most illustrious Celtic chief in Galloway." He had made his escape to the Isle of Man with EOBEET THE BEUS BEFORE RUSHEN CASTLE. 57 a great number of GaUovidians, in order to avoid the hostility of Robert the Brus, who was following up His attacks upon the Comyn family, with whom the Ergadias were closely con nected, in their Gallovidian territories. (See Calendar of Ancient Charters in the Tower of London, p. 121.) On His father's side he was descended from Shomhairle (or Somerled) Mac GUbert, Thane of Argyle, by his second wife, Affreca, an iUegitimate daughter of Olave Kleining, king of Man. His mother was the third daughter of John the first Red Comyn, by Marian, daughter of Alan, Lord of Galloway, and sister to DevorgiUe. He was thus (like the Comyns) descended on the female side from David Barl of Huntingdon, though his grandfather, the first Red Comyn, founded his claim to the Scottish throne by descent from Hexilda, grandaughter of Donald Bane, king of Scotland. He was also third cousin to Mary, daughter of Eugene de Brgadia, Lord of Lorn, and wife of Reginald, king of Man, and afterwards Countess of Strathern. A son of this Mary, viz., Malise, Earl of Strathern, married Egidia Comyn, daughter of Alexander Comyn, Barl of Buchan, and granduncle to this Duncan Macdougal. (See vol. x, Manx Society, Appendices B and D.) Hence he was not only closely united to the Comyns, the great competitors with Robert the Brus for the crown of Scotland, but had also a personal interest in the Isle of Man by his connexions with its ancient kings. It should also be noticed that it was a John Comyn (probably the second Red Comyn, cousin to this Duncan de Ergadia, or Duncan Mac dougal) who conquered the Isle of Man for the Scots at the battle of Ronaldsway in 1270 (according to the Chronicon Man- nice 1275). To which we may add that Isabella Beaumont, eldest daughter and coheir of Alexander Comyn, Earl of Buchan and Lord of Whitwic in Leicestershire, was at this time (1313) actually Queen of Man; Her husband, Henry de Beaumont, having in the previous year (1312) obtained a grant of the island and its regalities for life from King Bd- 58 ROBERT THE BEUS ward II of England. (See vol. x, Manx Society, p. 98, and Appendix D.) John de Ergadia, the elder brother of this Duncan, held large possessions in the Isle of Man, from which, in consequence of the capture of Rushen Castle by Robert the Brus, he was driven out, and he did not recover them tfll 1340. The Isle of Man, then, was evidently at this time the strong- Hold of the Ergadias and the Comyns, — a kind of rallying point to the most formidable enemies of the new dynasty. It was, therefore, of extreme importance to Robert that he should gain possession of it, and place it in the hands of those upon whom he could rely. Hence we find, immediately afterwards, that a charter was granted to Thomas Randolph, Barl of Moray, to hold the Isle of Man under Robert the Brus. {Bot. Orig. in Curia Scaccarii.) After the foul murder of the second Red Comyn, in the church at Dumfries, in 1307, His success at Bannockburn en abled the Brus so to waste the heritage of the Comyns " that," says a chronicle of the age, " of a name which numbered at one time three earls and more than thirty belted knights, there remained no memorial in the land, save the orisons of the monks of Deir." The Ergadias seem to have been more fortunate; and though Duncan was driven from Rushen Castle, and his brother John at the same time lost His Manx posses sions, after a series of years they returned to the family ; and it is somewhat remarkable that a descendant of John de Erga dia, Patrick Cuninghame, Esq., H.K., should at the present time be in possession of property which almost overlooks the Castle of Rushen. Looking at the strength of Rushen Castle as it now stands, we can hardly believe that it was the same as that which was taken by Robert the Brus in three weeks. Its architecture seems to point to the time of the first three Edwards. There are several square-headed trefoil doorways of the thirteenth century type; but it is probable that its main features received BEFOEE RUSHEN CASTLE. 59 their impress in the middle of the fourteenth century. The ground plan of the keep may, however, have been of an earlier and Norwegian date. It has plainly received many subsequent modifications. The glacis is said to have been made under the directions of Cardinal Wolsey, who was one of the guardians of Edward Earl of Derby and Lord of Man, temp. Hen. VIII, Ed. VI, Mary, and Elizabeth. James, the famous seventh Earl of Derby, made additions to the Castle in 1645 ; and several unsightly buildings Have been joined on to the keep within the last twenty-five years. It is much to be desired that an accurate ground plan of the Castle and precincts should be made. 60 VI. ANCIENT CHURCHES OF THE ISLE OF MAN, PRIOR TO THE MIDDLE AGES. BY J. R. OLIVER, M.D. Ecclesiastical Histoet. Among the group of islands known in former times as the Sud- reyjar, stands prominently the Isle of Man. Anciently cafled by the various names of Mona, Menavia, Eubonia, etc., and at a later period Mannin, or the Island of Man, this small spot lying in the Irish Sea, and centrally situated as respects the neigh bouring shores, presents very peculiar and remarkable charac teristics. Though of insignificant geographical dimensions, being little more than thirty miles in length, and barely twelve in breadth, it is rich in historic and archajological associations. Formerly a kingdom, and to this day almost an independent country. Having its own parliament, making its own laws, and regulating its own domestic affairs, it presents the singular spectacle of an island in the nineteenth century, in the heart of the British dominions, retaining Scandinavian ceremonies* * In proof of this, I may adduce the existence of the " House of Keys", anciently called the Taxiaxi, and the ceremonies of the Thingavollr, or Tyn wald HiU. During the Danish occupancy of the island under the Orrys, the "House of Keys" is said to have consisted of twenty-four members, eight of which were elected by the Sudreyjar, or " out isles", and sixteen by the Isle of Man. The " out isles'' were, Icolinkill, Colonsa-y, Jura, Isla, Le-wis, Arran, Bute, and the Cumbra-ys. At this period, and also up to the close of the Nor wegian dynasty in 1265, the Manx parliament was a representative body elected by the people; a distinctive feature, probably lost in the troublesome': times succeeding the Scottish occupancy of the island under Alex. III. ancient CHUKCHES OF THE ISLE OP MAN. 61 and usages, long after they have ceased to exist in the land of their birth. From, a very early epoch, the Isle of Man Had been the seat of a monarchial government. Its first line of kings* were princes from North Wales, who ruled over it for the space of four centuries. The earliest and most celebrated of these was Maelgwyn, King of North Wales, and nephew of the famous King Arthur. He conquered the island a.d. 525, chiefly through the assistance of his uncle. From this circumstance he received the name of Draco Insularis, and became one of the Knights of the Round Table. The Welsh line of kings terminated with the demise of Anarawd ap Roderic in the year 913. During this long period, a close friendship existed between the Welsh, and the Manx people, cemented and strengthened by frequent intercourse with each other. Prior to the Cambrian dynasty, a mythological character called Man- nanan Beg Mac Y Leir, is said to have governed the Isle of Man, and to have been its first legislator or ruler. Who this personage was, or from whence he came, is not very certain. According to the most approved tradition, he was of royal extraction, and descended from one of the kings of Ireland. Being of a restless roving disposition. He found his way to Man and settled there. Unfortunately, "little Mannanan", Mannanan beg, as he is called in the Manx language, has the ominous character of a paynim and necromancer, who by his occult arts enveloped the island in a perpetual mist, so that strangers were unable to visit it, whilst he sat at home in ease on the top of a High mountain called Barrule.f * For some of these see the An-nales Ga-mbrim, and the Brut -y T-ywysogion. + At this period also dwelt in Man another celebrated character called Melinus, possessed of the art of aeromanoy, and likewise the secret of flying. By the latter means he oould transport himself to any place he pleased in an incredible short space of time. Whether Melinus inhabited the island an terior to Mac Leir, or accompanied him to it, is uncertain ; but tradition points to priority of residence on the part of Melinus. If so, the likelihood is, he was the working Vulcan who mystified the island, whilst Mac Leii- ruled it. All Melinus's accomplishments, however, were of no avail against 62 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP The probabihty is, if such a person as Mannanan ever existed, he was simply some adventurous seaman or trader who, happening to visit the Isle of Man, settied in it, and made it the country of his adoption. He was there at the time of St. Patrick's visit, and whatever his skiU in the occult arts may have been, it was not potent enough to prevent his banishment by the Irish Apostle. The religion of the Manx at this period is supposed to have been Druidism, and like Me linus, they were said to be addicted to the practice of the black arts, a circumstance which sorely grieved St. Patrick, so, that instead of proceeding on his journey, he stayed in the island until he had converted them from the error of their ways. Whatever may be the amount of truth mixed up with the legend of Mac Leir, there can be Httle doubt that after the Roman edict, the Druids of Anglesey fled to, and found re fuge in, the Isle of Man.* Here they erected their altars, dis seminated their doctrines, and finally perished, — exterminated it is said by the orders of St. Patrick. At one time they must have existed in considerable numbers, instanced by the numerous places still called after them. To the present day, the peasantry use the term Druid, or Druidical, when speaking of any old ruin of whose history they have no knowledge, legendary or otherwise, and apply it alike to the stone circle of the Norseman, and the debris of a ruined chapel. Insular tradition, as we see from the above, in its ascription to St. Patrick of the conversion of the Manx people, hints, that He made short work of the business, inasmuch as he de stroyed the Druids by fire and sword. For the sake of St. Patrick's Christianity, However, we hope the traditionary ac count is not true, and we may safely ignore it, as being wholly the great St. Patrick ; for in one of his volitatorial excursions the saint winged him with a long prayfer, which tumbled the magician to earth, and killed him. So says Jocelinus. * Anderson says it was Finan, King of Scotland, who introduced Druidism into the Isle of Man, about 184 years before the Christian era (Koy. Geneai.) Upon what authority he makes this statement doea not appear. THE ISLE OP MAN. 63 contrary to the weU-known precepts and practices of the early missionaries. They in fact did no violence to the prejudices and feehngs of our Heathen ancestors; but, by judicious manage ment, gentleness, and kindness, won over the sympathies of the inhabitants to the new faith. By this means only did they estabhsh Christianity, and firmly plant it in the affections of the people. Before entering upon the ecclesiological history of the Isle of Man as developed in its numerous ruined churches, it will be advisable to glance at its first evangeUsation, and the per sons who were instrumental in accomplishing it. According to the generally received tradition, it was Christianised by St. Patrick whilst on his journey from Rome to Ireland, about the year 444. This opinion is founded on the authority of Joce linus of Furness, who in his chapter entitled, " De Mannia et ahis insuHs ad Deum conversis, states, that St. Patrick return ing* to Ireland, touched at the islands of the sea, one of which, Eubonia,t that is, Man, at that time subject to Britain, by his miracles and preaching converted to Christ". Whether St. Patrick ever visited the Isle of Man, as stated by Jocelinus, is open to doubt, as we find writers of equal authority with the Furness chronicler denying that such was the case, though they allow his influence may have had considerable weight in effecting the changes ascribed to him. Colgan, in his Acta Sanctorum, reiterates the statement of Jocelinus, that the Irish * " Eegnavignans Hiberniam, ad insulas maris eonvertendas devertit e quibus Euboniam, id est, Manniam, tunc quidem Britanniae subjectam salu tari prsedicatione, ac Signorum exhibitione ad Christum convertit." — Jocel., Vita Patrieii, a. xcii, f. 43. t Eubonia. Aliquando Eubonia, eto. Ita Gildse Jooelino, aliisque passim Britannicis, et Hibernicis scriptoribus vocatur. Mannia enim prisco ser mone Hibernico Eu-mhoin vel E-iibhoin appellata reperitur, ut constat ex veteri, et eleganti carmine panegyrico, quod in laudem magni filii Godredi MannisB regis ante annos quingentos composuit Arthulius, sive saecuU prses- tantissimus Poeta ; quodque penes me extat. Ibi enim Manniam saepius vocat Eumhoin abhlach, id est, porno arbore abundans, ad distinctionem alterius Euboniae seu Bumonise, quae caelebris olim erat sedes regum TJltonias, et Ea-mhain seu Eabhoin mhacha Hiberni appellatur. [Actt. Sane. Colgani.] 64 ANCIENT CHUECHES OF Apostle did visit and Christianise the island, adding, that an ciently it was a dependency of Ireland, and caUed Inis Patrick, or Patrick's Island, in Honour of the Saint. Probus,* However, a writer ofthe tenth century, says, that Conindrius and Romulus, and not St. Patrick, were the first preachers of the Gospel in Fvania or Man. His words are, "Qui primi docuerunt verbum Dei et baptismum in Evania, et per eos conversi sunt homines insulae ad Catholicam fidem". In the Trias Thaumaturga,t they are called Conderius and Romailus, but it is silent as to the conversion by St. Patrick, though it Hints at the island Having become famous as a retreat for monks shortly after his ¦ arrival in Ireland, " venit autem (Macaldus in Manniam sive Euboniam, olim Druidum et gentilium vatum) postea ab ad- ventu Sancti Patrieii, christi mystarum et monachorum secessu et sede nobilem claramque insulam". J According to the Tri partite Life, Conderius and Romaflus visited the island prior to 455, and were the persons who disseminated and propagated the faith and doctrine of Christ in it. These conflicting statements render it difficult to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion as to the men by whose exertions the Isle of Man really was Christianised, though there can be little doubt it was by the same missionaries, or their immediate suc cessors, who carried the Gospel to the Irish. The account handed down to us by the foregoing chroniclers is by no means improbable. It shows at least, that incidental visits were made to the island by reHgious men, as early as the fifth century, through whose labours a Christian church was established in a heathen land, in the midst of an idolatrous and superstitious people. Another difficulty meets us, respecting the identity of the first bishop appointed to govern the new church. Joceli nus says — "he was a wise and holy man named Germanus, who placed His ' episcopal seat', episcopalem sedem, in a certain pro montory which to this day is caUed St. Patrick's Isle, because * Vita Patrieii, 1. ii, c. 11. t Trias. Thau., 1. iii, c. 61. j Ibid. THB ISLE OP MAN. 65 he had remained there for some time.* The site of this seat or place of worship was old Jurby Church, now beneath the waves. Here, says the same authority, St. Patrick landed on his return from visiting the islands of the sea, " ad insulas maris", and estabhshed a central station for missionary opera tions, which he placed under the pastoral charge of St. Ger- man,t enjoining him to build chapels and churches to strengthen and confirm the people in the faith. Jocelinus is the only writer among the mediaeval historians, who asserts the Manx episcopacy of this prelate, an error clearly fallen into through the profundity of his legendary attainments. The Chronicon Mannise, a better authority, is silent as to Germanus Having heeiff. Bishop of Man, an omission its authors would not have been guilty of, had such been the case. From this it is evident that the Furness chronicler has committed the mistake of con founding the missions of Palladius and St. German with the apostieship of St. Patrick, an error the more remarkable in this celebrated writer, as He must Have been well acquainted with the object and extent of the Bishop of Auxerre's visit to England. Jocehnus, However, is borne out in his statement respecting the Manx episcopacy by insular tradition, which not only fully supports Him, but ascribes to this bishop the found ation of the numerous small chapels scattered throughout the island, called Cabbals, Keeills, and Treen Churches. Neverthe less, for the reasons given above, we are compelled to reject both the Manx tradition and the narrative of Jocelinus as * " S. Patricius virum sanctum et sapientem, Germanum nominatum, in episcopum promotum, illius gentis ecclesiae noveUae regentem praeposuit, et in quodam promontorio, quod adhuc insula Patrieii dicitur, eo quod ipse ibidem aUquautulum demorabatur, et episcopalem sedem posuit." — 'Vita Patrieii, c. xcu, f. 43. t Ger-ma-nus. Vide de ipso Martyrol. Tamlacten. Marianum Gorm. et Cathaldum Maguir ad 30 JuHi. [Act. Sane] Butler, in his lives of the Saints, mentions three bishops of this , name. St. Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, C. ; born a.d. 380 ; died July 26, a.d. 448. St. Germanus, Bishop of Capua; legate 519; died October 30, a.d. 510. St. Germa-nus, Bishop of Paris ; died May 28, a.d. 576. 66 ANCIENT CHURCHES OF untenable, and seek in another quarter the founder of onr eccle siastical system. Unfortunately, much confusion has arisen in consequence of the difficulty of identifying the traditionary Germanus of the Isle of Man, with any real person. We Have seen He could not have been the famous Bishop of Antissiodorum (Auxerre), as this prelate's first visit to England was in 429, fifteen years before the supposed advent of St. Patrick in Man; and his last, A.D. 448, just four years afterwards.* There are, however, two others bearing the same name, who flourished towards the close of St. Patrick's life ; but, as neither were bishops, they do not lessen the perplexity. One of these, mentioned by Ca nisius, and also by Messingham,t in his life of Adamnan, was a Christian bard ; and the other is described as a monk belong ing to the monastery of St. Finnian, under whom St. Columba studied, f The only feasible explanation seems to be, that in course of time, the Bishop of Auxerre's substantiahty became incorporated into a mythical personage, and so gave rise to the Manx tradition. § The Historic fact then amounts to this, that as it is wholly impossible that Germanus could at any time Have been Bishop of Man, the only remaining person to whom we can have re course vrith any degree of probability is St. Maughold, variously called Maccaldus, Macfail, Maguil, and Cyclops. || He was one of St. Patrick's earliest converts in Ireland, aud was most likely sent to the island to assist in the work of its conversion. Ultimately, He attained to the episcopal degree, 1[ and buflt the church near Ramsey called after him. He must have been an active and zealous labourer in his new sphere, as he has an extraordinary reputation for sanctity and miraculous endow- * Baron. Ann., a.d. 429. + Lib. 3, c. 4. J Vit. S. Kieran., c. 32. § There is a see of St. German in CornwaU. II So nicknamed in the Fourth Life from having only one eye, p.45, Seo.lxxxi. IT " Hic enim Maccaldus est episcopus et antistes clarus Ardeb-na/mnsis" (Hill of Evania, or Man) " cujus nos suffragia adjuvent sancta." — Tr. Thau., Septima Vita, p. 161, Sec. Ixi. THE ISLE OP MAN. 67 ments — gifts very abundant in those days, but remarkably scarce now. It is to be regretted that so little is known of his career. He lived in an age when annalists were few, and monastic es tabUshments yet in their infancy, so that if any biographies were written, they must have perished in the inroads of the Danes and Norwegians into this island. The few passing notices we find of him in the Chronicon Mcmnice, and other sources, add little to our knowledge beyond the increase of our legendary lore, and an accession to the treasury of ridiculous miracles which the biographers of the middle ages so delighted to record. The following account of St. Maughold from the Book of Armagh, is the oldest in existence. It is said to have been written about the middle of the seventh century. The Latin text is given below for the benefit of those who may wish to possess the original. There was a certain man in the country of the TJlothores (? Ulster), in the time of St. Patrick, Maccuil of Macugrecca, and this man was very impious, most cruel, tyrannical, so that he was called Cyclops* by the more thoughtful, depraved in words, in words intemperate, mahgnant in action, bitter in spirit, quarrelsome in disposition, abandoned in body, cruel in mind, a heathen in Hfe, and void of conscience. Sunk into such a depth LiBBE AsDMACH^.f VlTA S. PaTEICII. Erat quidam homo in regionibus Ulothorum Patrieii tem pore Maccuil Macugreccae et erat hic homo valde impius s^vus tyrannus ut Cyclops nominaretur cogitantioribus, * " Cyclops nomi-naretur." Hic est Demana episcopus. Qui ab authore vitse praecedentis Maguil a Probo Lib. 2, c. 9, Macfil, a Joceliuo, u. 151 et 152, auth. op. Trip., p. 3, c. 60. Machaldus ; hic nunc Cyclops, nunc De mana, sed dupUci ut videtur, cognomento appellatur. Cyclops enim ad similitudinem Polyphemi, Cyclopis, ob magna latrocinia et scelera, famosi, vocatur. Item, De-mana, nisi de Mona potius, sive de Mannia sit legendum, quia daemon Hibernis etiam Denham appeUatur. + The text, which was very corrupt, is here emended. P 2 68 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP of impiety, that on a certain day, sitting in a rough and high mountainous place, viz., Hind/ruim Maccuechach, where he daily exercised his tyranny, committing the greatest enormities, slay ing his guests on their journey with abandoned cruelty and cruel wickedness; seeing also St. Patrick shining in the clear Hght of faith, sparkling with a certain wonderful glory of the diadem of the heavenly country, firm in the unshaken confidence of his doc trine, walking in a way suitable to his life, him he meditated to slay, saying to his attendants, "Behold this seducer and perver- ter of men comes, whose custom is to practise deceits to entrap many men, and to seduce them; let us go, therefore, and tempt Him ; and let us know if that God in whom he glories has any power." And they tempted the Holy man, they tempted him in this way, they placed one of themselves under a cloak, feigning him to be lying in the agony of death, that they might try the Saint pravus verbis In tantum verbis intemperatus vergens impietati factis malignus in profnndum spiritu amarus ita ut die anima iracondus quadam corpore sceleratus in montoso mente crudeHs aspero alto vita gentilis que sedens conscientia inanis loco Hindrium Maccuechach, ubi ille tyrranidem cotidie exercebat, Diberca signa sumens, nequissima crudelitate et transeuntes hospites crudeli scelere interficiens ; Sanctum quoque Patricium claro fidei lumine radiantem, et mira quadam caelestis patriae gloria diadematae fulgentem videns, eum, inconcussa doctrine fiducia, per congruum vitae iter ambulantem, interficere cogi- taret, dicens satelitibus suis, ecce seductor ille et perversor hominum venit cui mos facere praestigias ut decipiat homines multosque seducat eamus ergo et temptemus eum et sciejnus si Habet potentiam aliquam ille Deus in quo se glorietur. THE ISLE OF MAN. 69 by this kind of deception ; so, on the arrival of St. Patrick with his disciples, they were having recourse to tricks, muttering prayers and practising witchcraft and incantations. The heathen said to him, " Behold one of us is now sick : approach, there fore, and chaunt some of the incantations of your sect over him, if perchance he may be healed." St. Patrick, knowing aU their stratagems and deceits, with firmness and intrepidity, said, " It would be no wonder if he had been sick ;" and, his companions uncovering the face of him feigning sickness, saw that he was now dead ; and, the heathens, amazed and astonished at such a miracle, said among themselves, " Truly this man is from God ; we have done evil in tempting him." But, St. Patrick having turned to Maccuil, says, " Why did you seek to tempt me ?" THe cruel tyrant answered, " I am sorry for what I have done ; whatever you command me I wiU perform, and I now deliver myself into the power of your Temptaveruntque virum sanctum, in Hoc modo temptaverunt, posuerunt unum ex semetipsis sanum in medio eorum sub sago jacentem infirmitatemque mortis simulantem, ut probarent sanctum, in Hujusque modi fallere sanctum seductorem virtutis prsestigias et orationes veneficia vel ineantationes nominantes ; adveniente Sancto Patricio cum discipulis suis, gentiles dixerunt ei, ecce unus ex nobis nunc infirmitatus est, accede itaque et canta super eum aliquas ineantationes sectee tuae si forte sanari posset. Sanctus Patricius sciens omnes doles et fallacias eorum, constanter et intrepide ait, nec mirum si infirmis fuisset; et reve- lantes socii ejus faciem insimulantis infirmitatem, viderunt eum jam mortuum ; at illi obstupescentes admirantesque tale mira- culum dixerunt intra se gentes vere hic homo Dei est malefe- cimus temptantes eum. Sanctus vero Patricius conversus ad Maccuil ait, quare temp- tare me voluisti, responditque iUe tyrannus crudelis ait poeni- 70 ANCIENT CHUECHES OF Supreme God, whom you preach." And the saint said, " Be Heve, therefore, in my God, the Lord Jesus, and confess your sins, and be baptised in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit." And he was converted in that Hour, and beHeved in the Etemal God, and, moreover, was baptised ; and then Maccuil added this saying, " I confess to thee, my Holy Lord Patrick, that I proposed to kill you. Judge, therefore, how much I owe for so great a crime." Patrick said, " I am not able to judge, but God wfll judge." "Do you, therefore, depart now unarmed to the sea, and pass over quickly from this country, Ireland, taking nothing with you of your substance, except a smaU common garment with which you may be able to cover your body, eating nothing and drinking nothing of the fruit of this island, having a mark of your sins on your Head, and when you reach the sea bind your feet together with an iron fetter, and cast the key of it into the sea, and set out in a boat of one hide, without teat me facti hujus et quodcumque perceperis missi faciam et trade me nunc in potentiam Dei tui excelsi quem praedicas. Et ait Sanctus, crede ergo in Deo meo Domino Jesus et confitere peccata tua et baptizare in nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti. Et conversus in illa hora credidit Deo eterno baptizat- usque est; insuper et nunc addidit Maccuil dicens, confiteor tibi Sancte domine, mi Patrieii, quia proposui te interficere, judica ergo quantum debuerit pro tanto ac tali crimine, et ait Patricius, non possum judicare sed deus judicabit. Tu tunc egredere nunc inermis ad mare et transi velociter de regione hoc hibemensi, nihil toUens tecum de tua substantia praster vile et parvum instrumentum quo possit corpus tuum contegi, nihil gustans nihilque bibens de fructu insulae hujus, habens insigne peccati tui in capite tuo, et postquam per venias ad mare, conliga pedes tuos conpede ferreo et projice clavim ejus in mari et mitte te in navim unius pellis absque gubernaculo et absque remo, et quocumque te duxerit ventus THE ISLE OF MAN. 71 rudder or oar, and wherever the wind and. sea shall lead you, be prepared to remain, and to whatever land Divine Providence shafl carry you, be prepared to live there and obey the Divine commands." And Maccuil said, "I will do as you have said; but, respect ing the dead man,what shall we do ?" And Patrick said, "He shall live, and shall rise again without pain." And Patrick restored him to life in that Hour, and he revived quite sound. And Maccuil departed thence very speedily to the sea. The right side of the plain of Inis is reached, having his confidence unshaken in the faith, and binding himself on the shore, casting the key into the sea, according to what was commanded him, he then embarked in a little boat, and the north wind arose and bore him to the south, and cast him on the island called Evonia, and he found there two men very wonderful in faith and doc trine who first taught the word of God and baptism in Evonia. And the men of the island were converted by their doctrine et mare, esto paratus, et terram in quamcunque deferet te divina providentia, inhabita et exerce tibi divina mandata. Dixitque Maccuil sic faciam ut dixisti divine, autem mortuo quid faciemus? et ait Patricius vivet et exsurget sine dolore, et suscitavit eum Patricius in illa hora, et revixit sanus. Et migravit inde Maccuil tam cito ad mare. Dexterum campi Inis habetur fiducia inconcussa fidei, coUegansque se in litore jeciens clavim in mare, secundum quod prasceptum est ei, ascendit mare in navicula, et inspiravit illi ventus aquilo et sus- tulit eum ad meridiem jecit que eum in insulam Evoniam nomine invenitque ibi duos viros valde mirabiles, in fide et doctrina ful- gentes, qui primi docuerunt verbum Dei et baptismum in Evonia. Et conversi sunt Homines insulae in doctrina eorum ad fidem catholicam quorum nomina sunt Conindri et Rumili.* Hii vero * Coindrius et Romulus. Fuit uterque Patrieii discipulus, et Manniffi suc cessive episcopus, ut de eis scribunt Joe, u. 152. Prob., Lib. 2, c. 10, et 72 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP to the CathoUc faith,, whose names are Conindrus and Rumilus. But these, seeing a man of the same habit, wondered and pitied him, and lifting Him out of the sea, the spiritual fathers received Him with joy. He, therefore, after finding himself in a region, believing in God, conformed himself body and soul to their guidance, and spent the remainder of his Hfe with those two Holy bishops till he was appointed their successor in the bishopric. This is Maccuil Dimane,* Abbot and Bishop of Arddee Huimdonii.fvidentes virum unius Habitus mirati sunt, et miserti sunt illius elevaveruntque de mari, suscipientes cum gaudio, ille igitur, ubi inventi sunt spirituales patres in regione a Deo sibi credita, ad regulam eorum corpus et animum exercuit, et totum vitae tempus exegit apud eos duos sanctos episcopos, usque dum successor eorum in episcopatu effectus est. Hic est Maccuil Dimane episcopus et antistes Arddse Huim- nonii. The following addition to the above is from the Triadis THaumaturgae of Colgan. It is the same as given by Jocelinus, in His life of St. Patrick, and lends additional interest to the life of St. Maughold, as narrated in the Book of Armagh. auth. oper. Prip. et Ussero in indice chron. ad an. 474, ut hic Eomulus vo catur ejus condiscipuli, et coUegae Conindrii, sive rectius Condirii, ordinatio nem refert. ITsserus in predictum an. 474. Condirii natalis celebratur die 17 Nov., juxta Mart. Tamlact. et Mariani; EomuU verb 18 Nov., juxta Ferrar in Catal. generali dicente m ; in Hibernia S. EomuU episcopi ; et in notis, EomuU alias Eomani ex Martyroiogio Subensi, de eo Joe, c. 152. Martyrologium Subensi, quod citat ita loquitur 14 Kal. Decemb. in Hibernia S. Romani episcopi et confessoris, Eomani etiam, uti et Eomani ad eundem diem meminit Marian Gorm. (Trias Thaum.) a.d. — SS. Conindrio et Eomulo, St. Patrieii discipulis, et Manniffi insuliB episcopis vitafunctis, St. Maguil sive Machaldus, St. Patricu etiam discipulus, suceessit. (Vita S. Gildse Badonici, p. 190; Colgan's Actta Sanctorum.) * Isle of Man. Intended for De Ma-n-nia. t The Irish Latinised form of Eubonia; i.e., Ardd wholesome to the taste, and Healeth divers infirmities, and the deadliness of poison; for whoso drinketh thereof, either re ceiveth instant Health or instantly dieth. In that stone the bones of St. Machaldus are said to rest, yet nothing is found therein save the clear water only; and though many have often times endeavoured to remove the stone, and especially the King of the Norici (of Norway ?), who subdued the island, that He might at all times have sweet water, yet have they all failed in their attempts; for the deeper they dug to raise the stone, so much the more deeply and firmly did they find it fixed in the heart of the earth. cognominata. Habetur etiam in coemeterio Ecclesi£e ejusdem loci sarcophagus cavati lapidis, in quo latex jugiter resudat, immo sufficienter scaturit, qui hausta dulcis, gustu salubris, mul tis infirmitatibus et prsecipue veneno infectis, vel potatis, mederi consuescit. Aut enim post aquae potationem qui libet celerem sanitatem sentiet, aut cita morte vitam finiet. In hoc etiam Sancti Machaldi ossa sacra requievisse referuntur, in quo nihil, nisi aqua limpida, invenitur. Plures etiam pluries lapidem ilium a loco amovere et etiam Rex Noricorum ut aquam dulcem haberet jugiter in mari, qui insulam subjugavit, conati sunt; sed tamen affectu suo omnino frustrati sunt. Quo etiam altius, ut lapidem effoderent, nisi suffodere sunt, eo firmius et profun- dius fixus inventus est in corde terrae. (Sexta vita Patrieii, Trias. Thaum. p. 98, sec. ciii.) Such is the legendary account of the most celebrated of the bishops of the Manx church. The history given of him hy Jocelinus, and reprinted by Colgan in the Fourth Life, is merely an embellished edition of the version given in the Book of Armagh. To it we can only add in the words of Prudentlus, corruptela, dolus, commenta, insomnia, sordes. Like his cele- THE ISLE OP MAN. 75 brated predecessor, St. Patrick, he is said to have attained to a very advanced period of life, and to have died at the age of one hundred and ten years. Although the above account of the years of St. Maughold is not without exceptions, and must be received with caution, it is only another instance, amongst the many we possess, of the tendency of mediaeval writers to deal in the marvellous, and bestow upon their heroes a patriarchal age. Maughold's early career, as we Have just seen, is stated to Have been one of rapine and profligacy, — a mode of life little conducive to lon gevity. So if we concede, that by reason of his strength, the number of his days may have been eighty, or even ninety years, we shall in all probability Have reached the limit of his existence. Irish annalists. However, with singular unanimity, state the year of Maughold's death to be 554, — a date which makes His age at the time of dissolution, one hundred and ten and upwards, supposing St. Patrick to have arrived in Ireland between the years 440-444. At this epoch He could only have been an infant,* and not the leader of a band of kerns, or free booters, as stated byhis biographers. If, however, we grant that Maughold was a predatory chieftain, as represented, and sur vived to the age of ninety, he must at all events Have been eighteen years old at the time of St. Patrick's advent ; in which case the remainder of his days would be seventy-two years, and the date of obit 534 instead of 554, the traditionary period ;t a portion of time sufficiently great to enable him to devise and carry out the ecclesiastical system I Have ascribed to him.f * His festival day is the 25th of AprU. (Colgan's Actt. SS.) + The date of his floruit, then, would be between the years 444 and 534. The An-nals of Ulster place his obit a.d. 488. t According to the above view, Maughold was the first bishop, de facto, of the Manx church, over which he presided for the long period of fifty-eight years. With StUUngfleet and Lloyd, I have discarded Hector Boece's ridi culous bishop called Amphihalus, and consigned this absurdity to obUvion. Maughold was consecrated by Conindrius and Eomailus a.d. 455, eleven years after his arrival in Man. Before him there could have been no bishop. 76 ANCIENT CHUECHES OF The history of the ancient church of Man, then, may be di vided into two distinct and weU-defined periods ; the first of which, comprising its^earhest condition, extends from the fifth to the commencement of the twelfth century ; and the second, from the foundation of Rushen Abbey, in 1134, to its dechne in the early part of the fourteenth. It is with the first of these periods we have to do, as embracing the epoch which gave rise to our cabbals, keeills, and treen churches, the remains of which still so largely exist. These edifices are chiefiy interesting as being, in the absence of all historic record, the only indices in existence of the state of Christianity in the Isle of Man in the primitive ages. They carry us back to periods that have bequeathed no written explanation of their origin, though they show us How gradually, but completely, the influ ences of Christianity had spread over this island, in an age not altogether barbaric, but of a civUisation different to our own. Simple as these churches are, and devoid of .architectural pre tensions, they are full of interest to the antiquary, and will he so to him as long as civilisation endures. The existence of a solitary tumulated ruin in a field, undisturbed for ages, merely because it is called a " keeill," is a striking instance of the vene ration with which the Manx people regard their sacred edi fices ; and to this feeling we owe the preservation of so many of these interesting memorials of a bygone age. Teeen Lands. THe Isle of Man, as is well known, is divided into a number of sections designated " Treen lands" ; and these, again, into for there was no church, as Conindrius and his coadjutor, EomaUue, were not diocesan, but missionary bishops, episcopi vaga-ntes, who after they had planted Christianity in the Isle of Man, returned to their own country. * A treen is a manorial division of land. Each parish is divided into a varying number of treens distinguished by different names. In 1505 the treen rents, or Beddita Tertia-na, meant division iuto thirds, and were conse quently rents of the three Sheadings attached to each of the castles of Peel and Eushen. The land contained in a treen is now wholly quarterland, but formerly Intacks were included up to 1526. In 1706 they were taken from the treens. THE ISLE OP MAN. 77 subsections caUed " Quarterlands," — in Manx kerroo valla. Originally each treen contained a small place of worship styled " the treen church"; so that treen lands were, in fact, rudimen tary parishes. This partition of the soil is of extremely ancient date, being coeval with the introduction of Christianity into the island. THe meaning of the word " treen," as applied to these lands, has been the source of considerable discussion, though without throwing much light upon the subject. Some deduce it from the Manx word strooan (a stream), thought to indicate a portion of land between two streams, — a supposition not bome out by any fact. Another definition has been offered by the Rev. Wm. Mackenzie, who derives it from jeih (ten) and raane (a surety), arguing that each treen consisted of ten fami lies, and each parish often treens. This explanation, whichis merely a revival of the Saxon tything and hundred, makes the treens amount to one hundred and seventy, — a considerably greater number than exist. Nor was it the case that the quarterland owners, the union of whose estates constituted the treen lands, were in any way sureties or bondsmen either for themselves or for others. They were Odallers, whose right in the soil was absolute ; and though they had certain duties to perform in connexion with the treen to which they belonged, they were voluntary, and for the general good. The origin and meaning of the word, however, appears to be that pointed out by the Rev. J. G. Cumming,* as derived from the Manx word tree (three) and synonymous with trian in Irish and Gaelic, and traian or traean in Welsh. In the Manx lan guage the word " treen " is defined to be " a township divid ing tithe into three"; and in accordance with this definition is the fact that in Olave I's reign (a.d. 1134), the tithesf of the * See the valuable notes to SachevereU's account of the Isle of Man, edited for the Manx Society by the Eev. J. G. Cumming, M.A. P. 186. t "Huic" (Bishop Eeginald) "primo tertiae ecclesiarum Mannise a personis concessae fuerunt ut deinceps Uberi ab omni episcopaU exactione fore potuis sent." (Chronico-n Ma-n-nite.) 78 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP island were distributed in conformity with the above rendering of the word,— one portion going to the bishop, another to the Abbey of Rushen, and the remainder to the clergy.* Several of our. parishes stiU show that the principle of division by thirds was the ancient practice adopted in this island. Ballaugh, for instance, is divided into the sea, the middle, and the fell thirds, an arrangement evidently designed for the convenience of the tithingman. In the appHcation of thirds to treen lands, However, as they at present stand, this principle does not wholly apply ; for though we find a great many to consist of three quarterlands, there are some which contain only two, others four, and some considerably Higher ;t an irregularity I believe to Have been occasioned, in course of time, through al terations of boundaries, ahenations, and sales of portions of quarterlands. In the oldest accountj we have of the Isle of Man — a metrical history written in the commencement of the sixteenth century — a treen is stated to consist of three estates {treen bailey) united for ecclesiastical purposes, and this prob ably was its ancient condition. Upon the treen lalley devolved the obligation of erecting and maintaining the treen church, the formation of burial-grounds, and other duties now merged in the parochial system. Each of these diminutive parishes contained its own church, the service of which was conducted either through the instrumentality of itinerant clerics, or else the ministrations of one of the heads of the treen balle-u. At this * It is remarkable in connection with the above distribution of the tithes, that no provision seems to have been made for the maintenance of the poor. (They were relieved by the monastic foundations, which had a third of the tithes.) •f- Though the number of treens now existing amount to one hundred and fifty, or thereabouts, there is reason to beUeve that originaUy they may not have exceeded half this number ; as we flnd some treens, as Howstrake, for instance, contain six quarterlands ; others ten j and some, as the treen of Commessary, Malew, twelve quarterlands to the treen. This great dissimila rity in size is explicable on the supposition, that anciently the treen was larger than we find it at present ; or else that in process of time, two or more became incorporated into one, and produced the present irregularity. X A MS. baUad iu the EoUs Office, styled Man-nanan Beg Mao -y Ldrr. THE ISLE OP MAN. 79 period the Manx church was purely diocesan ; there were no benefices, and the bishop was the sole incumbent, assisted by a few presbyters who lived with him, and were His assistants and council for the diocese at large. The system of treen lands and churches arose out of the exigencies ofthe times. Small chapels or churches of the rudest formation Had sprung up everywhere, many isolated, and few, if any, canonically disciplined ; so that like the Irish churches of the same period, they required re modeling. St. Maughold commenced the work ; and in the formation of the treen bailey, we have probably one of the earliest attempts at a parochial system in Britain. ECCLESIOLOGT. It is to be regretted that the Isle of Man possesses no record of its ancient ecclesiastical edifices — not even a fragmentary notice that such a class of buildings as churches ever existed prior to the twelfth century ; and were it not for a passing allusion to the subject by Jocelinus, and the monks of Rushen Abbey, we should be, as far as history goes, absolutely churchless. Consequently the archaeologist Has nothing to as sist him in his investigations, except tradition and his own researches. THe difiiculties in his way also are greatly increased through the extremely early epoch in which the Manx cabbals and keeiUs originated ; and from the circumstance, that few are now to be found in a tolerable state of preservation. Many present only the appearance of an old hedge, and others a shapeless mass of stones and earth, the combined results of decay, and the industry of the agriculturist, who utilises them as a convenient receptacle for the upturnings of the plough. A remarkable circumstance in connection with these cabbals and keeiUs, is the number that at one period must have existed, as some hundreds stiU remain.* Two orientations are also noticeable, one east and west, and the other towards the point * The Ordnance Survey, at the present engaged in this island, seems to show, that anciently there was a chapel to every quarterland. 80 ANCIENT CHUECHES OF of the horizon where the sun rose on the saint's day to whom the church was dedicated. In their materials and construction they correspond with the account given in the Book of Ar magh of similar places of worship in Ireland of the age of St. Patrick. When the apostle visited Tirawley " He buflt there a quadrangular church of moist earth, because there was no wood near."* Here we have an exact description of the Manx cabbal, and there can be no doubt that the primitive churches of Ire land formed the model ofthe Manx. Itis singular that amongst the numerous remains of these churches scattered throughout the island, there is not an instance to be found of any built in the crucial, semi-circular, or octagonal forms ; nor is there an example of cyclopean architecture in the Isle of Man, although an approach to it may be occasionally noticed. THe result is, the style is in every instance alike, one embracing the utmost simplicity and uniformity of design. Consequently the cabbal and keeill are invariably quadrangular; the lights oblong, or quadrilateral openings splaying inwards, and the stonework of the doors and windows unchiselled. This uniformity of design no doubt had its origin in the veneration felt for some ancient model given to the people by their first teachers, independent of any abstract considerations arising out of primitive causes. Hence we find their archaic form, slightly altered, still preserved in our parish churches, as may be seen in the rectangular shape, absence of chancel and couched semi-circular absis. In few of them moreover do we find any traces of an altar. If they contained any, they were simply altataria portatilia, or do-. mestic altars, removable at pleasure. It is singular, in connection with the history of the Manx church, that there is hardly a record of sacred relics having been introduced into the Isle of Man.f There are no examples of * " Fecit ibi ecclesiam terrenam de humo quadratam quia non prope erat sUva." (Terecham, Lib. Armac, fol., 1466.) + There were the " three relics of Man" ordered to be borne before the Lord in the great Tynwald days. See vol. iii Ma-nx Society, page 72 ; and in a roU of 32 Henry VIII (1541) mention is made of "one hand and one Bysshope hede," which were probably reliquaries. The Mtauc Cabbal aftlu Fi/tk CtiUuiy. THE ISLE OP MAN. 81 saints leading an eremitic life. It is difficult to account for this, unless on the supposition that such incentives to religious devotion were Held to be valueless, and consequentiy rejected. At this epoch, the Manx church seems to have approximated more closely to the first churches of Asia, than at any subsequent date. The worship was simple and unadorned, and the bishops elected by the unanimous voices of the clergy and laity, and not, as in modern times, by a conge d'elire from the crown. Neither did the people pay tithes, but supported their pastors by voluntary oblations, which in these days were probably sufficient for the purpose, as we find no mention made of other sources of revenue, such as obventions, altarage, and mortuary dues. From this we learn that the church was deambulatory, and Had neither cathedral, dean, nor chapter. The foregoing are the chief features of Manx churches, prior to the middle ages. I shall now describe them in detail, accord ing to the following classification : — The Cabbal. The Keeill. The Teeen Chuech. The Moetuaey Chapel, and Bueial Geound. The Cabbal. The Isle of Man, unlike England or Ireland, never possessed any churches built either of wattles or wood. The reason of this was the scarcity of timber ; whilst, on the other hand, stones and sods were abundant, and offered an unlimited supply of a more durable material. I have mentioned that the churches of the fifth century were called " Cabbals," and I shall confine myself in this section to a description of these edifices, as the oldest places of worship in the island, and the original form of building in which the Gospel was first preached to the Manx people. The cabbal is an earthen structure, quadrangular in form, G 82 ANCIENT CHUECHES OF of very small dimensions, and rarely exceeds twelve feet in length, by nine in breadth. It is invariably situated on a low truncated Hillock of artificial formation, called the " chapel mound," and enclosed by a sod fence. There is no burial place attached to it, as the Manx did not in the fifth century inter in consecrated ground. Up to the ninth century, we find the same plan still adhered to in the elevation of the church and churchyard above the level of the adjacent land ; the design is evidently the embodying of the scriptural principle, of a church set upon a hill being a visibly conspicuous object. In the early examples, the plateola within the vallum is of very small dimensions, scarcely allowing sufficient room for three persons abreast to pass between the chapel and the circumvallation. ¦ THe walls of the cabbal are low, pyramidal in form, and of great width at base. They never exceed five feet in height, and are constructed to carry a low-pitched sod or heather roof. (See plate, "Manx Cabbal ofthe fifth century.") In the inside they measure from a foot to a foot and a Half more than externally, in consequence of the floor being sunk to that extent to heighten the interior. The entrance to these chapels is through a small opening in the south-west angle of the gable. This doorway, in the greater part of the cabbals qf the fifth century, had neither jambs nor lintels, and was also the only source of light to the in terior. To protect the inside from effects of the weather, the contrivance made use of was a bundle of gorse, or a screen of faggots laid across the doorway, and called in the Manx language, skeiy sy doarlisJi, " a bundle of faggots in a gap." THe mode of construction of the cabbal was as follows : — A suitable spot Having been selected, the builders threw up a small conical truncate mound from three to four feet high, and around the edge of the truncated portion built a low sod wall. Within the enclosed space the cabbal was erected, not in the centre of the plateola, but towards its eastern portion, and formed of the same materials as the circumvallation. In these churches there were no seats, the congregation standing during ¦¦m'jtH' THE ISLE OP MAN. 83 divine worship, so that the service would necessarily be of short duration, and most likely wholly consisted in the adorations of prayer and praise. The Keeill. In the preceding section I have described the cabbal as it existed in the fifth century, and now come to a better class of buildings denominated Keeills, introduced about the middle of the sixth. These churches are of two kinds : one built wholly of stone, and the other of a mixture of sods and stones. They are larger than the cabbals, and measure from fifteen to twenty feet in length by twelve in breadth, but rarely exceed these dimen sions. Both have bui-ial grounds within the circumvallation ; but Stunc Font, Keeill Pharic, Ballufreer Xvirk, Marown. through the absence of all extemal indications of the nature of the place, most observers would pass it by unnoticed. In a few instances the keeill carries a slate roof. It has also side Hghts, and a door of entrance in the south wall. (See plate.) Rude stone vessels caUed " fonts " are sometimes found within them, and occasionally a quadrangular recess is observed in the east wall. Like the cabbal, the keeiU also stands upon artificially raised ground, is rectangular in form, and altogether better buflt than g2 84 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP the former. In the superior examples, the interstices of the masonry are filled up with mould, to steady the stone work and exclude the weather. The mode of construction of the keefll was similar to the cabbal. The following account given by Bede of the building of St. Cuthbert's Church, Lindisfarn, in 684, so exactly describes the method pursued in the Isle of Man, that I quote it in preference to giving another : — " The church was round, and about four or five perches wide between the walls. On the outside the wall was the Height of a man ; in the inside Higher, so made by sinking a huge rock, done to prevent the thoughts from rambling, by restraining the sight. The walls were neither of squared stone, nor brick, nor cemented with mortar, but of rough unpolished stone, with stone P'ont, St. Lingan's, Kirk Marown. turf dug up in the middle of the place and banked on both sides all round. Some of the stones were so big that four men could scarcely lift one. The roof was constructed of unhewn timber and thatched."* The annexed view of the ruins of St. Lingan's Treen Keeill and enclosure, Marown, will give the reader a correct idea of one of these old places of worship. It is situated on the Bal lingan estate adjoining Ballaguinney, about a mile and a * Beda Vit. Cudberti, p. 243. DOOEWAT, BALLAQUINNEY TEEEN CHAPEL. THB ISLE OF MAN. 80 quarter from the Peel Road, and is one of the best specimens existing of our insular keeills. THe enclosure in which stands the keeill is one hundred and eight feet long by sixty-three feet broad, ovicular in form, and in an excellent state of pre servation. This is the necropolis of the church. In the south east part Hes St. Lingan's. The portion of the walls remain ing measure four feet high by three feet thick, but the masonry is of a much superior description than is usual in keeills of the sod and stone formation. In the west end there Has once beeu a window, but it is now entirely destroyed by visitors using it as a short cut into the church. The doorway is in the south east angle, and guarded by two inclining monolithic jambs siipported by rubble stonework, so regular as to have the appearance of ashlar masonry. (See plate.) '*« ^'^^ -^l^..-^Ml/'--^::ir^^_^~^=-^' Doorway, Keeill, St. Lingan, Marown. In the north-east angle of the church, deeply embedded in the ground, Hes the font. (See plate B, p. 84.) It measures one foot eleven inches long, by ten and a Half inches broad. The interior walling of the west end is concave, and gives it the appearance of a couched semi-circular absis. It is, how- 86 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP ever, nothing more than irregular masonry producing this effect. The gentleman* who owns the property, with a laud able motive, has planted the enclosure with trees to protect it from injury. An example we should wish to see more fol lowed. Interior Walling of Ballaquinney Treen Keeill, Marown. Though I Have stated that stone churches were not in use in the Isle of Man till the close of the sixth century, there was one exception to the contrary as early as the fifth. This was the church built by St. Maughold on the headland near Ramsey bearing His name. Although I have characterised it as a church, it was a conventual establishment, partaking of the Irish type of that period, and consisted of the church, the bishop's resi dence, and cells for ecclesiastical and other purposes, enclosed by a double embankment of unusual strength. The existing plateau contains three acres of ground, and originally must Have been much larger, as only a segment of it now remains, having the shape of the letter R. It differed from its Irish archetypes in being surrounded by a double circumvallation, and in Having the cemetery within the enclosure. From the strength and height of the embankments, they seem to have been intended for defensive purposes, and are probably a later * J. J. Carran, Esq. Tkt Trim Church of tht Mifhlh Century. THB ISLE OF MAN. 87 addition to the churchyard, the work of the Pagan Norsemen when in possession of this Isle.* It is not impossible. How ever, that they may Have been erected by St. Maughold Him self or His immediate successors ; for, at the period when he buflt his church, before Heathenism was fully eradicated, and whflst the Manx people were stifl in a perturbed and instable state, it is probable that latent feelings of hostihty to the new faith remained, which rendered the adoption of precautionary measures a matter of necessity. However this may be, it was from this spot, the school of learning and the centre of civilisa tion in the Isle of Man, that issued that noble band of eccle siastics who finally established the Christian faith, and left behind them in the crumbling waUs of the cabbal and keeill memorials of their pious labours that Have long survived the memory of those who reared them. The Teeen Chuech. We now come to an entirely different class of buildings, in termediate between the keeills and the churches of the middle ages. These are the true treen churches, introduced towards the close of the eighth century. They differ from their pre decessors in form and construction, and in presenting a more regular style of architecture. The masonry is still rude, but * Since the above was written this view has to some extent been confUmed by recent discoveries in the churchyard. Within the last few weeks a por tion ofthe southern extremity of the inner embankment has been removed, in consequence of alterations making in the cemetery. Beneath it a sub stantial stone wall has been exhumed, and close to it a heap of ashes. These consist of charcoal, bone ashes, and minute globules of lead. The Eev. Wm. Stainton Moses, to whom I am indebted for the above information, suggests, that the waU may be a portion of the ancient boundary of the churchyard, and probably runs the entire length of the vaUum. As this can only be deter mined by au examination of the whole structure, it must remain for future investigation. The ashes, however, show, that at one period, heathen rites have been celebrated here ; aud these must have been either anterior to the introduction of Christianity, or else subsequent to that event. In the latter case, they can only be ascribed to the Pagan Norsemen, during their occu pancy of this island. 88 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP for the first time we find it put together with cement.* The entrances now carry doors suspended from incHning monoHthic jambs. The side lights are more numerous, and a rudimentary bell turret surmounts the western gable. In dimensions these churches do not exceed the keeills, averaging from fifteen to twenty feet long, by ten in breadth. The roofs are high pitched, and the general appearance more imposing than their prede cessors. A remarkable alteration is now noticeable. The chapel mound and raised graveyard Have disappeared, and the whole partakes more of the characteristics of churches of modern times. They appear to be the originals from which those of the present day have been modelled. The following description of the Treen of Ballakilley, Malew (see plate), lying three miles north-east of the parish church, will enable the reader to form some idea of the architec tural arrangements of these edifices. The treen is situated about fifty yards from the farm house. Its dimensions inside are twenty-one feet long, by nine in breadth. The western gable, crowned with ivy, is still standing, but the east end is in ruins, and blocked to the height of the remaining portion by quantities of fallen masonry. This church has a very peculiar appearance from the walls being built of rounded boulders of granite and quartz, giving to the whole the resemblance of a pile of cannon balls. Their height is six feet three inches from the ground to the spring of the roof; and the western gable sixteen feet nine inches to the peak. In the south wall near the eastem angle is the door of entrance, five feet two inches in height, by two feet six inches at base, and diminishing up wards to two feet. Opposite it, in the north side, is a square headed window, and another in the south wall near the west end. This window externally is two feet six inches high, by * The cement made use of is a, tenacious plastic clay, which in time hardens almost to stone. Lime mortar was not known in the Isle of Man till the middle of the tenth century, and was first employed in the building of Castle Eushen. THE ISLE OF MAN. 89 one foot six inches broad splaying inwards. Internally it measures two feet six inches high, by three feet broad. In the north-west angle of the gable is a similar window, measur ing one foot five inches long, by nine inches broad, and splay ing internally to one foot five inches in length, by one foot eight inches in breadth, so that the extemal and internal measurements are reversed. The cemetery has long been under cultivation, and cannot now be distinguished, but it yearly dis closes before the plough of the husbandman numerous remnants of mortality. The Moetuaey Chapel. The chief of the mortuary chapels now remaining in the Isle of Man is St. Luke's, a small edifice in ruins, lying on the western slope of the Cronk-na-Irey Lhaa, in the parish of Kirk Christ Rushen. It is traditionally known as the church aud cemetery of the Danish kings. The neighbouring village of Dalby, two miles west of the chapel, was anciently a Scan dinavian settlement, supposed to Have been founded by an offset from the Danish conquerors of England, who gave to the place a celebrity and a name. Be this as it may, the present insig nificant village shows no indications now of ever having been a place of importance, much less an abode of royalty. From it the funeral processions embarked for St. Luke's (? St. Leoc's), and landed at the foot of the ravine, between the Cronk-na-Irey - Lhaa and the Carnanes. This is the most feasible way of reach ing the mountain from Dalby, as the approach to it by land is both difficult and dangerous.* Beneath the chapel on the beach is the Fern cave, abounding in almost every variety of this ad mired plant. Nothing can exceed its beauty. From the roof and waUs hang, in graceful festoons, thousands of ferns of the most * The best way of reaching the chapel is by means of a boat from Mes- wick Bay, and saiUng thence round the headland of E-nnyn Mooar. A Uttle further on is a smaU rocky point running into the sea from the Carnanes. This is the entrance to the ravine leading to the church and cemetery. 90 ANCIENT CHUECHES OP brilhant emerald Hue ; and when the setting sun illumines the cavern, it Hghts up the place with rays of gold with magic effect. St. Luke's, styled in a buU of Pope Eugenius III the monastery of St. Leoc, is simply a mortuary chapel, erected for the offices of the dead. It is built upon a spur of the moun tain, about one Hundred and fifty yards from the edge of a steep precipice. A portion of its walls pnly remain, and these in summer are so overgrown with fern as to be. entirely Hidden from view. The cemetery lies on the north side, and is a very picturesque object. It is bisected in its longitudinal diameter by a pathway fringed with boulder quartz of dazzHng white ness. From the end of this walk, a branch diverges to the south in a zig-zag manner, but originally it was prolonged northwards as well, and so formed the western boundary of the cemetery. This pathway terminates in the outer enclosure of the chapel. (See plate.) St. Luke's, like the keeills, is a stone erection built without cement of any kind, but the masonry is more regular, and much better constructed than in the case of the latter. The floor, paved with pebbly stones, can with difficulty be seen, from the mass of debris encumbering the place. The chapel in its perfect state must have been of very diminutive size, and could scarcely Have exceeded eight feet in Height to the peak of the roof, as its interior only measures eleven feet by nine. St. Luke's differs from all similar places in the island, in having a double circumvallation encompassing it for two-thirds of the plateau. In the lower or western portion of the outer circle, are indications of its having been used as a place of sepulture, but the mode of inhumation has not yet been investigated. In the inner circle stands the chapel, from which a pathway leads between two stone pillars to the ravine. This glen, studded with masses of white quartz, has a very beautiful effect, and will amply repay the tourist for the trouble of visiting it. Such are the chief features of the chapel and burial ground of the Danish kings. With a brief notice of the mode of inhumation B OutfT Snelonir*. O flurial Ground. Z .4pyro«cAyro»i (Ae Sii. THE ISLE OP MAN. 91 practised in these cemeteries, I shall conclude this account of Manx churches prior to the middle ages. The burial of the dead in the Isle of Man was essentially a religious belief, involving a lively faith in the resurrection, con sequently the selection of a burial place, the ubi resurgere, where the dead might rest in peace to rise again in glory, was an object of the utmost importance. Hence these cemeteries usually occupy picturesque and retired localities, with little to awake the sympathy of the casual visitor, except the sanctity of the place. They contain no monumental stones, or other memorials of the dead, to indicate who rests below, but great and small lie mingled together vrithout distinction in the one common hope of a joyful resurrection. The mode of inhumation practised was as follows : — A grave three feet deep and two feet wide was dug east and west, and lined with flag-stones to the height of fifteen inches. In it the corpse was laid wrapt in a mort-cloth, and closed in by a coverlid of stones. (See Keeill of sixth century, opposite page 83.) A few shovelsful of earth and a layer of sods completed the remainder. No implements or relics of any kind were en tombed along with it, but the whole betokens the simple burial of the early Christian church. It sometimes happens that two, and even three bodies, rest in the same grave. When this is the case, they will be found to lie on their sides with the lower extremities semi-flexed. In consequence of this, the stone coffin is much smaller in size than is usually the case, and has more the appearance of a chfld's than an adult's burial. Very seldom the remains con tained in these graves will bear Handling, unless the surround ing soil happen to be of a dry and sandy nature. Their colour is generally of a rusty iron, or tan hue, caused by the quantity of ferruginous matter contained in the schistose formations of this island. The crania belong to the doUchocephalic type. Burials in stone-lined graves continued in use in the Isle of Man down to a comparatively recent date, and did not finally cease untfl the commencement of the seventeenth century. 92 VII. NOTES ON THE STONE MONUMENTS IN THE ISLE OF MAN. BY THE REV. E. L. BARNWELL. If the stone monuments in the Isle of Man are not remarkable for their dimensions or their state of preservation, they have at least an interest wanting in similar remains in Wales, Corn wall, or other districts where these monuments are not uncom mon. Generally speaking, such monuments are supposed to be, and probably are, the rehcs of a certain race, or divisions of it, whether Celtic or of an earlier unknown people. They may and seem to have been erected at different periods ; but they were still erected by the same race, or by its successive waves. The case of the Isle of Man is different. Within the Historic period it has been overrun by Norsemen, themselves builders of structures of a similar character, although present ing certain distinct features of their own. Had their monu ments, then, as well as the earlier ones of their predecessors, been left in any moderate state of preservation, the assignment of each class to their respective builders would have been in most cases comparatively easy ; but in their present condition of almost complete destruction, the attempt to distinguish one from the other with certainty is almost hopeless. To add to the difficulty, few satisfactory accounts of the contents of graves opened in later times, and no trustworthy delineations of the monuments themselves, before their destruction, have come down to us. It is true that the work of rifling and destruction. STONE MONUMENTS IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 93 especiaUy of the earliest examples, may have taken place cen turies ago, even by the Scandinavian invaders themselves, in their search for gold and other treasure. On the Continent, as in the north-western districts of France, the Northmen appear to have ransacked every grave that promised such booty ; but in many instances they have left behind them, as of httle value, articles of great importance to the archaeologist of the present day. If the same spoliation was practised by the Scandinavians in Man, they carried on the work so effectually as to leave little hopes to the Manx explorer. There may, how ever, still remain, especially in less frequented parts of the island, graves which may have wholly or partially escaped ; and if such should be the case, it is to be eamestly hoped that they will be carefully examined by gentlemen competent to super intend the operations ; for the safest, if not the only reliable means of ascertaining any real information respecting the Habits and uses of the earlier races, which once occupied the island, can be obtained in no other manner than by a careful examina tion of such relics. There are, however, certain distinctive features exhibited in the various remains throughout Man which deserve attention. The late Dr. Oswald has, indeed, in his Vestigia, chapter ii, given a full and accurate description of the most remarkable ; but his deductions and observations, especially as regards Druidic theories, must be received with great caution. Besides his indiscriminate use of the term " Druidic circle," and "altar," he introduces us to a distinction between the complete circle and the semi-lunar forms, which, he says, have been supposed to have been respectively dedicated to the sun and moon. In the days of Stukely such theories may have been suggested, but would hardly be advanced in the middle of the present century, and certainly should not have been repeated without some explanatory caution by so good and zealous an archaeolo gist as the author of the Vestigia; for although it is now uni versally agreed among the most competent judges, that these 94 ' NOTES ON THE STONE MONUMENTS various circles are simply portions of sepulchral arrangements, yet there is even at the present day a certain class who see in them nothing but Bardic and Druidic mysteries.- Thus these semi-lunar forms are said to be connected with lunar worship, — the circle with that of the sun ; whereas the former are but mutilated remains of the latter, whilst these latter are but the relics of a grave. In the present notice, stone monuments will alone be touched on. The numerous early earthworks, of different forms and intended for various purposes, scattered through the island, form a class by themselves well deserving a separate examina tion, although a good account of many of them will be found in the Vestigia, and is given in the previous Memoir by Dr. Oliver. Of the cromlech proper there does not appear to be any ex ample in the Isle of Man, — at least none such was seen during the meeting of the Association. Whether the small chamber in the Oatland circle is one, will be best decided by the spade, as without it it is not easy to determine whether the stones composing the sides of it were originally placed on, and. not ivithin, the ground ; for this seems to be the safest test to dis tinguish the one class from the other. According to this view, the cromlech is always built on the ground, the kistvaen sunk within it, so as in fact to become an ordinary rude stone coffin. A large kistvaen must not, therefore, be considered a small cromlech, as is sometimes the case. Thus the latter name has been given to the stone grave near Tynwald Mount, which has been laid bare by a cutting in the road. It may be a question whether cromlechs are always of much older dates than the kistvaen, although the latter continned in use to a period when even the very nature and object of the cromlech had become a mystery. In the island especially it is difficult to say when the practice of burying in kistvaens ceased, as those opened at Cronk ny Keeillane and elsewhere are appa rently Christian. The form, however, of such a grave is so simple and natural, that it is difficult to conceive that it is IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 95 merely a kind of copy of the cromlech, or even much later. The two kinds of chambers were probably contemporaneous ; the larger and more costly cromlech, with its covering tumulus, being only adopted for persons of distinction ; for when we consider the enormous amount of labour that must have been spent in raising the covering stones, sometimes thirty feet long, and almost always of enormous thickness, on the top of supporters projecting six or more feet from the surface of the ground, and the additional labour of covering the whole with a huge mound of earth or stones, and how much of this :;.J...B ::^ -^^-z^:^^ .y^y/^^_^ '^ Ruck at Ballamona. toil might have been saved by merely sinking the slabs within the ground, it is evident that such a costly practice owes its origin to some tradition of the remotest antiquity, which may, perhaps, be traced in the rock-caves of the East, or even the Pyramids themselves, which look very much like simple tumuli over the remains of the dead. At Autun, in France, is the wefl-known mass of masonry, now robbed indeed of its ashlar, but which is simply a solid stone tumulus (if such a phrase is 96 NOTES ON THE STONE MONUMENTS admissible). These considerations point to the extreme anti quity of such monuments, usually ascribed to Celtic races, but which may, and probably have been erected by some ante rior people. But even allowing the great antiquity of the cromlech proper, it by no means follows that the kistvaen was unknown at the same early period. Of the existing remains, however, in the island, which are connected with sepulture, the large stone circles, more or less perfect, may be placed among the earliest ; although, in some cases, it seems impossible to distinguish those which were erected in later times by the Scandinavians. The large masses of white quartz, mostly isolated or not arranged in any order, seem to belong to the earher class. A faithful representation is given of one of them at p. 95. It lies on the land of Balla mona. Other similar masses in the same spot have been either removed or completely destroyed, so that it is not possible to ascertain in what order they were once grouped, for although some may think that they have been brought to their present situation by natural agency, yet the finding of several near one another in a particular spot, where they do not naturally occur, seems to indicate that they have been brought thither, and that too at no little cost pf labour. The hill above Malew church, stiU retains two or three similar masses of white quartz, which the author of the Vestigia seems to describe as having formed a circle of about ten yards in diameter, although no traces of it are now to be detected. He speaks of two of the stones as portal stones, and of a third within the area, which of course must be the altar stone in the eyes of those, who still consider these circles connected with Druidic or Bardic myste ries, but which is more likely to be merely one of the stones of the circle out of place. As, however, the late Dr. Oswald seemed satisfied that such a circle of quartz rocks did exist at Malew, it renders the conjec ture probable that those at Ballamona also were portions of a similar circle. It is also remarkable that the ground, which ?•¦. B 3 \^- PLAN OF OATLANDS CIKCLE, ISLE OF MAN. isFeet A. Chamber B. B. Stone wilh cup markings. i;. Stone, five feet high. D. Stone, four feet six. Inches high. E. Fallen atone — perhapa portion of the covering stone. F, Gj H, Detached stones of outer circle. Average height of other atones of inner circle, three feet. ,'.' \A dm 'I • '.III'*' I I' ll' STONE, WITH CUP MAKKINGS, OATLANDS OIXtCLE, ISLE OF MAN. STONE AVENUE, POOR TOWN, NBAE PEEL, ISLE OF HAN. kistvaen, NEAE ST. JOHN S TYNWALD MOUNT. IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 97 this circle may have occupied, has been an extensive cemetery. In addition to the neighbouring tumulus marking a grave, numerous kistvaens have from time to time been discovered in ploughing, the fragments of one of which, destroyed a short time ago, consisted of thin, slaty stones. A Treen chapel also is said to have stood on this spot, so that if it be a fact that a primitive stone circle of quartz masses also ex isted here, we have a remarkable instance of the same burial- ground having been used by various races down to Christian times. The earth was excavated' to a slight extent under the Balla mona block, but nothing was discovered except the two small stones given in the cut, which appear at first sight to Have been supporters to the mass, but which, from their diminutive size and their position, are suspiciously natural. A small fragment of vegetable charcoal was also found, but its presence, unsup ported by other indications of fire, is not of much importance. If any traces of interment exist, they are likely to be found near, not under the quartz mass, as Mr. John Stuart has frequentiy found to be the case in Scotland during His numerous diggings in and about circles. An important group of circles, known as the Mount Murray Circles, may be of a later period than those formed of quartz blocks. These circles are so imbedded in the heath that they are somewhat difficult to trace, although they are unusuaUy perfect. If the ground could be cleared, it is not unlikely that traces of the once existing chambers might be made out. An upright stone in one of them has certain marks, which at first sight might be taken for artificial, but which do not appear to be so. This grouping of circles, almost, if not quite, in contact with each other, is not unusual, and seems to indicate an early character. In many instances, such groups have been included in one large circle, which sometimes remains when the enclosed circles and graves have vanished. Hence may be explained the mystery of circles like that near Penrith, known as Long Meg H 98 NOTES ON THE STONE MONUMENTS and her daughters, which is evidently too large to Have been intended to surround a single grave. The circles in Arragon also attracted attention, from the fact that one of them Had an inner circle of stones placed, not close to the base of the tumulus, but some little distance up its sides. This peculiarity was not observed in a circle in the next en closure. This position of the stones indicates the Scandinavian character of the tumulus. Another tolerably perfect circle, composed of quartz blocks, was pointed out by the Bishop of Sodor^ and Man. It is situated not far from Bishop's Court, on high ground com manding a fine sea view. It is probably one of the earlier class. The tumulus, which once existed, appears to have been formed of fine soil, if that which still covers one of the stones, as it seems to be, is a last remnant. If so, the soil must have been too valuable to the farmer to have escaped removal. In a small island like that of Man, no part of it can be called distant from the sea ; but the majority of this class of antiquities seem to show that, when possible, the builders of them selected sites commanding a sea view. In no instance is this tendency more strongly exhibited than in Brittany, where, almost without ex ception, the great monuments are on the coast. The same may be said of Wales in a less degree. Instances, no doubt, occur where they are found more inland ; but, as a general rule, the earliest vestiges of man are to be found along the coast. All the circles mentioned have lost the interior structure. That at Oatlands is an exception, which retains its central chamber. The inner circle of stones, placed near one another, marks the limit of the carn or tumulus. Three stones of the outer circle, placed at greater intervals, still remain. The chamber itself is composed of substantial slabs of stone, nor less substantial was the covering stone lying on the ground. At present the chamber has the appearance of a kistvaen, but it would be necessary to clear away the soil to ascertain whether the sides were originally placed on the ground, in which case IN THE ISLE OP MAN. 99 it would be a smaU cromlech. But the most remarkable cir cumstance connected with it, is that one of the stones Has several rows of the curious cups, to which Professor Simpson has caUed the attention of his brother-archEeologists, and which untfl first noticed by that keen observer, seem to have been unknown, or at least to have never attracted attention. Now these cups, and their developments in the form of circles, are found only in the earlier class of stone monuments, so that there can be little hesitation in assigning the Oatlands group to the earliest period. The character of this monument, the cups, and whole arrangement, will be best understood from the accurate drawings and measurements taken on the spot by Mr. Blight, which are given in the accompanying fllustrations. THe cups are, however, shown more distinctly than they appear in the original. There is a singular group of upright stones at Poortown on the old Peel road, forming a gallery. This gallery, covered with flat stones, was, together with the chamber to which it led, once covered with soil. In the great majority of existing cromlechs, all traces of a gallery conducting to the chamber have long since vanished, but in this instance the chamber has been destroyed, and the gallery left. It is, however, by no means certain that gaUeries always formed a portion of such structures; examples might be given where it is proved they never existed. One of the best authorities on this sub ject has suggested that the more important chambers were built with a view to subsequent interments, so that it would be necessary to Have such a means of access without disturbing the tumulus or chamber; but that where this motive did not operate, the chamber was closed up, and no gallery added. The traces of such gaUeries are very rare in these islands. One, or rather the remains of one, exists in the cromlech on the Henblas estate in Anglesey, which was visited by the Cam brian Archasological Association during the Bangor Meeting. They are, however, common enough in Brittany. H 2 100 NOTES ON THE STONE MONUMENTS If, However, the moderate height of these stones seems to show that they could not have served as the walls of a gallery, it is not impossible but that in this group we may Have an ex ample of the stone avenue or alignment ; — an arrangement common enough in Brittany, but in these islands of the highest rarity. The stones are, however, placed much nearer to each other than is usual in an ordinary avenue, so that on the whole it seems more probable that it is the remains of a covered gallery to a grave. Under either supposition, however, it is certainly one of the most interesting, if not the most interest ing, of Manx stone monuments, and deserves to be carefully protected from the destroyer. This Manx example is composed of such small stones, that unless the ground has been raised by natural causes, access could not have been obtained in an upright position. But this question can be determined by clearing away the soil, which Mr. Harrison, the owner of the estate, has promised to do. If there has been any accumulation of soil, the floor may possibly remain, which is frequently formed of one or more of large flags. Several large stones, which seem to have belonged to this group, are now on the other side of the bank. The stone monuments Hitherto noticed are, with the exception of the Arragon circles, most probably of the earlier kind. The remarkable circle of graves on the hill above Port Erin may belong to the same class, although they are not built of the same substantial slabs, which generally characterise the earlier chambers. Their remarkable grouping, however, so as to form a perfect circle, and the fact of a small raised bank en closing the circle, seem to indicate a very early character. There appears to have been more than one entrance into the circle, although this appearance may have arisen from the dis placing of some of the stones. A reference, however, to the ground plan, made by Mr. W. Matthews of the Government Harbour works, will best show this peculiarity. There was not sufficient time on the occasion of the visit to examine with IN THE ISLE OF MAN. 101 greater care these outlying stones, so as to ascertain whether they are original portions of the group. The general view is from a drawing made for the Association by Mr. Jeffcott of Castletown, who has, in a subsequent memoir, furnished some details con cerning it. It is situated in the highest parts of the mountain called " The Mull," in the parish of Rushen, close to a rocky valley which gives to the monument its name, RhuUick-y-lagg / Plan of Circle on Mull Hill, Isle of Man. Shhggagh, or " the grave-yard of the vaUey of broken slates." It was with no little difficulty that Mr. Jeffcott ascertained its Manx name, which, but for the information he obtained from two octogenarian natives, might have been entirely lost. The 102 NOTES ON THE STONE MONUMENTS materials of the kists have been evidently taken from the spot, and vary much in thickness, namely from six to sixteen inches, and are entirely without any marks of tooHng. The interior diameter of the circle is forty-six feet. It is very remarkable that this curious circle had not hitherto attracted any attention, or even been noticed, except by Mr. Halliwell, in his Round about Notes (1863). He thinks, however, that stone avenues existed ; but this seems doubtful. There are, indeed, one or two irregularities in the exterior of the circle, which may have been caused by later kists added on the outside. He is, how ever, not far from right in thinking it to be "perhaps the most curious sepulchral mo-num.ent in Great Britain." From the regularity with which the graves have been arranged in pairs, and the complete similarity of the kists themselves, they appear to have been the work of the same hands, and of the same time. Other graves are said to exist on the mountain, but not arranged as these are. It is. However, certain that no careful examination has yet been made of the ground, an omission which it is to be hoped will soon be rectified. Imme diate steps should at any rate be taken to surround this group with a wall to prevent its destruction, for although the kists are individually of no great importance, yet their being thus grouped together gives them a value, which it is to be hoped will be appreciated by the proprietors of the land. The other stone remains .visited during the meeting of the Cambrian Association are of the later kind, and must be re ferred to Scandinavian occupiers of the island. In a field near the Tynwald Mount were three kistvaens, one of which was laid bare by a cutting through the road, and ex amined during one of the excursions of the week. This had evidently been buried within the ground, to some depth, as will be seen from the accompanying illustration. At the time of its discovery nothing was found within it, so that it may have been rifled on a former occasion. Near it were the two other simflar graves, close to one another, — one of which contained a battle- iKf"^ U A ^ 13 '