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NOTES FROM A DIARY

Notes from a Diary
1886-1888

BY THE RIGHT HON,
SIR MOUNTSTUART E^,''gRANT DUFF
G,C.S.L

"On ne doit jamais ^crire que de ce qu'on aime.
L'oubli et le silence sont la punition qu'on inflige a ce
qu'on a trouvd laid ou commun dans la promenade a travers
la vie." — Renan.

IN TWO VOLS.-VOL. 11.

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMAE?LE STREET
1900

YALE

1 888
fanuary
2. We passed the whole of New Year's Day at Nazareth,
and assisted at High Mass, followed by Benediction, in
honour of the Pope's Jubilee. An attempt was made at
night to illuminate the Monastery, but with no great success,
for the beautiful weather of a few hours before had been
succeeded by most furious showers. In an interval between
two of these I managed to see the Greek church on the site
of which, it is maintained by the adherents of that com
munion, the Angel first appeared to the Blessed Virgin. It
stands close to the well which I have already noticed, and
an attendant let down a cup into the water for me to
drink. This afternoon we got back to Haifa after a pleasant, but
not very interesting ride, passing the small town of Shefa
Amr. Our horses raced from the Kishon to Haifa, so little
fatigued were they with their long march.
VOL. II. A 1

2 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
5. Mail arrives. Lady Henley writes, with reference to
the Manchester Exhibition : —
" I was much struck by the good pictures that were sent by
the Trustees of the Manchester Fine Art Gallery, showing with
what care and judgment the local collection is being made.
English art need not certainly bow its head in the face of such
a collection as that, for it shows that an enormous amount of
real talent has existed during the past fifty years, in spite of its
being the fashion to look upon all modern work as mediocre.''
I had asked Acton "whether there existed any such
thing as a good short history of the Crusades?"
He replies, in the affirmative, from Cannes, telling me
that Kugler, a professor at Tiibingen, has written just such
a work, also that Kohl has done the same in the third
volume of the mediaeval portion of the Universal History
published by Triibner.
7. A strong west wind has been blowing for many hours.
Yesterday, for the first time since I landed in Syria, I wore
a great-coat in walking, and this evening we went so far as
to light the stove in the dining-room.
8. I finished reading through Conder's Tent Work in
Palestine, into which I have been dipping from time to
time ever since I arrived. It is full of valuable information,
which has not yet found its way into guide-books, and
should be in the hands of every one who travels in this
country.

i888] PALESTINE AND VIZAGAPATAM 3
It is a rapid summary of the chief results obtained during
the survey of Palestine from Dan to Beersheba, and from
the Jordan to the Mediterranean. That sounds a very
large undertaking, and so it was for a private society, but,
after all, it extended only over an area of something like
6000 square miles, that is to say, little more than the
average size of a Madras district. Vizagapatam is about as
large as three Palestines. Bellary, before I divided it, was
equal to nearly two Palestines.
Amongst the things which interested me most in the
book were the pages on the Samaritans and the description
of the view from Hermon, from which the writer saw,
amongst other things, Damascus, the wild volcanic district
of the Trachonitis, now known as the Lejjah, the sea of
Galilee, Tabor, Carmel, and Tyre.
I observe that he agrees with those who believe Khan
Minyeh to represent Capernaum — the word Minai or
Sorcerers being the contemptuous Hebrew name for the
early Christians.
As, to this he remarks : —
" It is a wonderful reflection that to Jewish hatred we
perhaps owe our only means of fixing one of the most interest- ^,
ing sites in Palestine, and that, through the opprobrious epithet
of Minai or Sorcerers, the position of Christ's own city is handed
down to the Christians of the nineteenth century.''
I see, too, that he places Megiddo, with much probabiHty,

4 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
a good deal to the east of the place where most persons,
following Dr. Robinson, believe it to have stood.
It would be a difficult book for any one to read through
who had not visited this region, and it would be easy to
criticise some of its details, but there is not a chapter in it
which does not contain interesting matter, new to most
people. 9. It is mid-winter, and yet one sees few days as
beautiful as this in the finest English summer. The recent
storm has left no traces save a hardly perceptible swell in
the bay, and a little snow upon Jebel Jermak in Upper
Galilee. That marks a further fall in the temperature since
I last made a note about the weather, for Jebel Jermak is
not half the height of Hermon, rising only to about 4000
feet. 13. Since I returned from Nazareth I have had read to
me the second and third Books of the Wars of the Jews, by
Josephus, with so much of Book IV. as treats of the subjuga
tion of Galilee.
It would seem to me strange that my attention was not
called long years ago to the extremely remarkable speech in
Book IL, attributed to Herod Agrippa — Paul's King
Agrippa — if anything done, or omitted to be done, by the
persons who, outside the Sixth form at Rugby, mismanaged
education from 1841 to 1847, were capable of exciting my
surprise.

i888] THE CRESCENT MOON 5
In Book III. a speech is put into the mouth of Titus,
addressing his soldiers before Tarichaea, at the lower end of
the Lake of Gennesaret, which recalls
" The fewer men the greater share of honour "
of Shakespeare's Henry V.
I have also been occupied with Conder's Judas Mac-
cabceus, a clear and spirited sketch of a tangled piece of
history. The book throws many side-lights upon matters which
are not quite immediately connected with its subject. Here
is one of them : —
"The Jews had, properly speaking, no calendar. The feasts
of trumpets, which celebrated each new moon, were regulated
by actual observation of the crescent. Throughout Palestine
the appearance of the slender sickle, which shines so brightly in
the clear Oriental heaven, was watched with eager eyes, and
those who first saw it hastened to report it to the Beth Din
in Jerusalem. Even the law of the Sabbath Day's journey was
abrogated to allow these messengers to proceed at once to the
capital; and it is said that on one occasion forty pairs of
witnesses passed through Lydda alone on the Sabbath, intent
on the errand which seemed so important to this primitive
people. " The witnesses were obliged to be men of good character,
and were very closely questioned by the Sanhedrim. If they
had only seen a reflection in water, or a doubtful portion of
the luminary through clouds, or if they had seen the new
moon through glass, their evidence was disallowed, and their
journey was fruitless. Here probably we trace the origin of

6 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
the superstition that it is unlucky to see the new moon first
through glass. Certainly it was unlucky for the witness who
had made a laborious journey in vain."
The following bears on a question to which I have
alluded above : —
"There are indications in Jewish literature which tend to
show that the old worship of the ' high places,' which the
children of Israel were commanded to destroy, was never
entirely stamped out. Some of these idolatrous shrines existed,
and were held sacred, even in the fourth century of the
Christian era. In the Mishna this worship is considered a
subject of sufficient importance to demand a tract to itself,
and instances of trees in Palestine, locally held sacred, but
officially condemned by the Rabbis, are given in the treatise on
Foreign Worship.
" Nor is this worship of local divinities extinct even at the
present day. The modem Mukim replaces the ancient M akom,
or place consecrated to some traditional prophet or chief to
whom supernatural powers are ascribed. Sacred trees still
exist all over the country, and sacrifices and processions en
tirely disconnected with the ritual of the Moslem religion are
locally observed."
19. We heard talk at Nazareth of the road by which we
reached that place from Tabor being infested by dangerous
wild beasts, of which, however, we saw none.
I observe that Canon Tristram, in his Natural History of
the Bible, mentions that the Felis jubata, or hunting leopard
of India, still inhabits Tabor ; but I should think that the
creature which has recently made itself troublesome near

i888] THE LEOPARD 7
Nazareth was more probably the common leopard, or Nimr,
of which there is a skin in the drawing-room here, and of
whose misdeeds upon Carmel we hear from time to time.
The following passage from the book just alluded to is
very curious : —
"We have incidental proof that the leopard was formerly
common in the Holy Land in the names of places derived
from it, as Beth-Nimrah, or Nimrah, a fenced city allotted
to Gad, near the Jordan eastwards (Numb, xxxii. 3 and 36).
It is curious to trace the change of names in the history of this
place. ' The house of leopards ' of old, as the country became
more densely peopled and the leopards disappeared, had
changed to Beth-Abara, or ' house of the ford,' of the Septu-
agint and the New Testament, when John the Baptist baptised
beyond Jordan. With the present desolation of the land, the
leopard has resumed its sway, and roams undisturbed; the
ford has become disused and almost forgotten, and the Beth-
Abara of the Roman period has to-day regained its old appella
tion, and is the Nahr-Nimrim, i.e. ' the stream of the leopards,'
of the modern Arabs. Deservedly is it so named, for in its
thickets the leopards roam; and though I did not see the
animals themselves, their fresh footprints were clear and un
mistakable on the moist ooze. It is the broad, massive footmark
of the leopard, which Lynch, de Saulcy, and other travellers
have mistaken for that of a lion, which is there quite extinct."
Decidedly vegetation in the fields immediately around
this place is further backward than it was between Ramleh
and Jaffa on the 2nd of January last year.
Encouraged by hearing of the multitude of flowers near
Dalieh, we went to-day to see what was to be found along

8 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
the road which leads up Carmel to the Monastery, but
there was next to nothing in blossom.
At Christmas, and just before it, the children could
gather small bouquets of Narcissi. I thought that later
they would be much more abundant ; but not a bit of it —
a cyclamen or two, and a pretty bright yellow Ruta were all
our spoils.
The view on the other hand across the bay was enchant-
ingly beautiful ; the mountains, the sand dunes, the plain of
Acre, and Acre itself, never looked the same for a moment,
as the cloud-shadows and the great breadths of light
changed their places.
My wife made me repeat in the evening the lines from
Historic Fancies : —
" Oh never yet was theme so meet for roundel or romance,
As the ancient aristocracy and chivalry of France :
As when they went for Palestine, with Louis at their
head,
And many a waving banner, and the oriflamme outspread ;
And many a burnished galley, with its blaze of armour
shone
In the ports of sunny Cyprus, and the Acre of St. John ; —
And many a knight who signed the cross, as he saw the
burning sands.
With a prayer for those whom he had left in green and
fairer lands.
God aid them all, God them assoil, for few shall see again
Streams like their own, their azure Rhone, or swift and
silver Seine."

1 888] STRANGE PETS 9
How little did I imagine when I first read that passage,
nearly three-and-forty years ago, that the scenes to which it
refers would one day become part of my daily life !
20. I came across, to-day, the following paragraph in Mrs.
Burton's Inner Life of Syria. The scene is laid at Karya-
tayn, between Damascus and Palmyra : —
" I had also the pleasure of making in that very queer and
lonely spot, an acquaintance which ripened into a friendship
— the wife of Omar Beg, the daughter of the German savant,
Mr. Mordtmann, who is well known and appreciated at
Stamboul. I need not say much more in praise of Omar Beg
himself, than that he is a Hungarian gentleman, and all the
world knows the brave and independent race. He married
this charming German lady, and keeps her secluded in harem
like a Moslem woman. She was living with her husband quite
contentedly in this desolate place under a mud hut, and her
only companions were a hyena and a lynx, which slept on her
bed like two lap-dogs. The hyena received me at the gate, and
— though not prepared for it — I innocently did the right thing,
as she afterwards informed me. It came and sniffed at my
hands, and then jumped up and put its fore-paws on my
shoulders and smelt my face. ' Oh,' I thought, ' if it takes a
bit out of my cheek, what shall I do ? ' But I stood as still
as a statue, and tried not to breathe, looking it steadily in the
eyes all the while. At last it made up its mind to befriend
me, jumped down, and ran before me, like a dog, into the
house, where I found the lynx on the divan. No. 2 pet sprang
at me, mewed, and lashed his tail till Madame Omar
came." This passage interested me much, for the father of the

IO NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
lady who had those strange companions had been a friend
of De Tabley's, to whom I sent it.
I have just finished running through the book from which
the above is an extract.
The very full account of Damascus is to me the most
interesting part of it. The chapter entitled "Revival of
Christianity," is worth studying along with Renan's account
of the persecution of the Babis, near the end of Les
Apdtres. It throws the most curious light upon St. Paul's
experiences in and near Damascus.
A very large number of persons, many of them well
known to the authoress, no less than she herself, were
evidently living in the year 1870 in an atmosphere of
miracle. The account of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre and of
its migration from Maestricht to New Hall, in Essex, was
also quite new to me.
Some of the merits and also some of the faults of the
book are easily explained when we read that Mrs. Burton
passed two years of her life, on emerging from the school
room, alone with Tancred, and that in mature life she
considered the author of that work, which in its own line
I put very high, but which it is impossible to take seriously,
was one of the few men in England competent to deal with
the Eastern question !
On the Carmel plateau, above the Monastery, the little

1888] HISTORY OF ANCIENT ISRAEL ii
Iris Sisyrhinchium is beginning to be pretty abundant, and
a few, but very few, scarlet anemones are in flower.
On a piece of waste land where, a week or two ago, a
crocus was to be gathered in great quantities, I did not this
afternoon find one single flower.
21. I have been glancing through a little book called
A Short Introduction to the History of Ancient Israel.
The writer claims no originality, mentioning that he has
compiled his work mainly from books by Stade, Wellhausen,
and Bleek.
It is a useful resume, but its importance chiefly consists
in the fact that it is the production of a beneficed clergyman
of the Church of England.
The point of view is much the same as that of Renan in
the Histoire du Peuple dlsra'el, and of the Dutch book
mentioned a few pages ago.
Here is the opening : —
"Our chief authorities for the history of Israel are the books
of the Old Testament. Unfortunately, none of the historical
books have reached us in their original form ; they have been
worked up by later historians, whose aim was not to accurately
reproduce the past so much as to paint such a picture of it as
would best convey religious instruction to the men of their own
generation. To gain this end they did not scruple to make
any alterations, additions, and omissions, which served to
bring the books more into accordance with their own ideas.
In order, then, to recover the original documents which lie at
the bottom of the historical books of the Old Testament, we

12 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
have to omit the later additions, supply the omissions, restore
the corrections. Although this may seem at first sight almost
impossible, it is made comparatively easy by three circum
stances. Firstly, the old historians had no motive for conceal
ing the process by which they worked, and therefore made no
attempt to alter the style and phraseology of the documents
which lay before them. Secondly, they were rarely skilful
workmen ; they often failed to make the necessary alterations
in the old histories which they incorporated with their own.
Thirdly, we have in the writings of the prophets a fixed point
by means of which we can establish the dates of the various
revisions which the books have undergone. We may, besides,
gain considerable assistance from the translation of the LXX.,
especially where the Hebrew text is corrupt."
Thirty years ago these words would have created a
scandal ; thirty years hence they will be little better than a
commonplace. Mrs. Bishop writes from Antibes, under date of the
7th inst. :
"Not since 1829 has there been such low temperature. I
fear the crop of orange blossoms is lost, and brides will have
to take to white jessamine and myrtle."
23. Very few days pass on which I do not take up Mrs.
Awdry's calendar to the Rkcit dune Sceur, and read the
passage to which it points, nor do I ever do so without
feeling the truth of Renan's remarks : —
" Prenons garde d'etre complices de la dimunition de vertu
qui menacerait nos societes, si le christianisme venait k
s'affaiblir. Que serions-nous sans lui? Qui remplacera ces

i888] ATMOSPHERIC EFFECTS 13
grandes Ecoles de s^rieux et de respect telles que Saint-Sulpice,
ce ministfere de devouement des Filles de la Charitd ? Comment
n'etre pas effrayd de la secheresse de coeur et de la petitesse qui
envahissent le monde ? "
At the same time he would be indeed blind who could
pass any time in this country without seeing that the follow
ing words by the same author are not a whit less true : —
"Que I'orthodoxie r^ussisse k tuer la science, nous savons
ce qui arrivera; le monde Mussulman et I'Espagne meurent
pour avoir trop consciencieusement accompli cette tiche. Que
le rationaUsme veuille gouverner le monde sans ^gard pour
les besoins religieux de Time, I'exp^rience de la Revolution
Frangaise est la pour nous apprendre les consequences d'une
telle faute, L'instinct de Part, porte aux plus grandes ddlicatesses
mais sans honhetete, fit de l'ltalie de la renaissance un coupe-
gorge, un mauvais lieu. L'ennui, la sottise, la mediocrite sont
la punition de certains pays protestants, oil sous pretexte de
bon sens et d'esprit chretien, on a supprim6 I'art et r^duit la
science k quelque chose de mesquin. Lucr^ce et Sainte
Thdr^se, Aristophane et Socrate, Voltaire et Frangois d'Assise,
Raphael et Vincent de Paul ont dgalement raison d'etre."
It is true, no doubt, that I never had so much leisure to
watch atmospheric effects as I have here; still, this place has
surely few superiors in so far as they are concerned.
This afternoon, as we walked up Carmel, a piece of rain
bow of most extraordinary loveliness seemed to have taken
up its abode permanently among the Nazareth Hills, and
when Victoria and I had pushed on to the plateau we saw
at least half-a-dozen showers falling round the sea horizon,

14 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
while at one spot the sun, himself unseen, had created in
the midst of the dark waters a lake of silver, unspeakably,
intolerably bright.
24. Drove out of the town for a short distance along
what is described by courtesy as the Nazareth road. There
the Narcissus is not quite out of flower, and it must be
abundant in some places, for we met a man riding from the
interior with a perfect sheaf of it.
The hour, however, belongs to Anemone Coronaria,
especially to its purple and blue varieties. These we
found in great number, with a few white, but hardly any
scarlet, ones.
We dug up and transferred to the garden a fine man
drake. In obedience to one of the many superstitions
connected with this plant — one of which is, I observe, as
old as Josephus — -I duly tied Xit to it.
He undoubtedly struggled, but the plant, I am happy to
say, neither shrieked, nor did the dog die of its shrieks !
I was not a little surprised to learn some time ago that a
public man, occupying one of the highest non-royal positions
in Europe, attributes much of the success he has had in life
to the possession of a mandrake root !
25. I have been reading Studies in a Mosque, by Mr.
Stanley Lane-Poole, a collection of essays upon various
subjects connected with the dominant religion of this
country.

THE BROTHERHOOD OF PURITY 15
It contains amongst other things, less unfamiliar, an
account of the Brotherhood of Purity, a society which was
established at El-Basra in the last quarter of the tenth century.
It had two aims, the one moral, to keep its members
" unspotted of the world " in the midst of a corrupt society ;
the other, intellectual, to bring together all that was known
to the most learned men of that age in the East, and to
work their " guesses at truth " into a connected whole.
The result of their labours in this last direction was a
series of tracts forming a complete encyclopaedia, which the
patient scholarship of Germany has, it would appear, recently
made more or less accessible to the European student.
This work, says the writer of these essays, is " a faithful
portrait of the philosophy and science of the Arabs at the
time when the enthusiasm for culture was coming to an end
in the East, and only one great name ^ was still to be added
to the list of Arabian philosophers."
Quite new to me, too, is the account of the Sabians, or
Christians of St. John, who are to be carefully distinguished
alike from the Sabaeans, who dwelt at Saba in the Yemen,
and the Sabians, a sect dwelling near Harran, and whose
religion was the old paganism of the country, mixed with
Jewish ceremonial, Greek godSj some Aristotle, and a great
deal of Neo-Platonism. These people only took the name
of Sabians about a.d. 830. ^ Avicenna.

l6 NOTES FROM A DIARY [January
The true Sabians, or Mandaeans, or Christians of St.
John, who live far down the Euphrates, away from all Greek
influence, are held to be the legitimate descendants of the
ancient Semites of Babylonia, speaking an Aramaic dialect
closely alHed to Syriac and Chaldee, but much freer from
foreign influence.
They have bishops, priests, and deacons, but little else
that has any relation to the belief of other Christian sects,
and were called Sabians by the Mahommedans, from a
Syrian word meaning a "Washer," just as they have received
in the west the name of Christians of St. John, i.e. the
Baptist, from their endless and preposterous lustrations.
Their mythology, as sketched in Mr. Stanley Poole's paper,
is madder than most mythologies, which is saying much.
The Mail arrives, De Tabley writes : —
" It is very sad indeed about Henry Cowper's death. I had
seen little of him of late, but at college he was quite one of my
nearest friends. ******
Men of his type of character are daily becoming more scarce,
and are hourly becoming less appreciated."
And again : —
"It is odd that you have been reading Dorothy Forster.
I too have read it lately, and liked it as I do any tales with
strong local colouring. I have a book-plate of Lord Derwent-
water, but the truth must be told, it is the father of the hero of
the tale, not the hero himself."

i888] THE HAURAN SHEEP DOGS 17
My sister writes from Weimar : —
" The snow lies and waits for more. Nothing is happening
here save that those fragments which Goethe left of a Nausikaa,
with a complete scheme for a tragedy, have been skilfully turned
to account, and the tragedy was produced here last night —
Fraiilein Jenicke as Nausikaa, a beautiful part, and beautifully
impersonated." After a description of the piece, she adds : —
" Life at Weimar is so, that such a piece is an event. We
think it happened ! We go about full of it ! We talk of it as
of Ein von uns alien Erlebtes.''
26. Rode on the Athlit sands, passing, in order to reach
them, over a road which has been more frequently trodden
by armies than almost any on the surface of the planet.
Now ho man traverses it to its end in Egypt, save the
shepherds of the flocks, one of which we lately met just
under the Monastery, coming from the Hauran, and guarded
by great dogs, who would no doubt have done battle for
their charges if any one had meddled with them, but who
appeared to be the gentlest and most inoffensive of
animals. 27. Went down to examine the rocks on the beach,
which to-day are more exposed than usual. There is a
considerable growth of Algce, though no great variety, but,
although the pools are very numerous, neither on this nor
on any previous occasion have I chanced to see in them
one single starfish, sea-anemone, or other creature.
VOL. II. B

1 8 NOTES FROM A DIARY {January
28. Read to-day the Palestinian portion of the Buildings
of Justinian, by Procopius.
When speaking of the Church of the Virgin, built by the
Emperor for the monks of Mount Sinai, the historian
observes : —
"He did not build this church on the summit of the
mountain, but a long way below it ; for it is not possible for
a man to pass the night upon the peak, because at night
continuous thunderings and other yet more terrible divine
manifestations take place which overpower men's strength
and reason.''
Thus we find the idea of Sinai, which was of old the
Olympus of the thunder God, closely asssociated with
the idea of thunder some five hundred and sixty years after
Christ !
We saw to-day on Carmel the bird which in the words of
Chapman — " loves humans best.
That hath the bugle eyes and rosy breast,
And is the yellow autumn's nightingale."
Tristram says that the robin is scattered by twos and
threes in winter over the whole country, but that not one
remains after the end of February.
29. I have been looking to-day through the itinerary of
the Bordeaux Pilgrim who travelled from the banks of
the Garonne to Jerusalem, a.d. 333.

i888] THE BORDEAUX PILGRIM 19
I see that he passed by Acre, Haifa, and Athlit — then ,
called respectively Ptolemais, Sycaminum, and Certa ; but,
oddly enough, although he was almost within sight of
Nazareth, he does not seem to have had the smallest interest
either in it or in the Sea of Galilee.
31. In reply to a question of mine, Mme. Renan, after
speaking very highly of the exactitude of the descrxiptions
of Breton scenery and character in P'echeur d'Islande
says : —
" Quant au nom d'Yvon Duff mon mari n'a jamais trouve
sous cette forme ce nom de ' Noir.' La forme bretonne est
Le Du (le breton armoricain a pour habitude de supprimer
les consonnes); mais peutetre, dans quelques dialectes, dit-on
Duff." I presume, however, it is quite certain, that an author
who is so careful about local colouring would not have given
to one of his characters a name which would strike any one
at first sight as belonging to the north-east of Scotland, not
to the north-west of France, without having chapter and
verse for it. February
I. Mr. Cuthbert, passing through to England, showed us
the skin of a fine wolf, killed a couple of nights ago near
Dalieh. Canon Tristram says that the wolf of this country
is a larger animal than that of Europe, probably from his

20 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
being better fed. The fox of Northern Palestine, Vulpes
flavescens, is also a prosperous person, larger than the
species or variety found in Judaea. We have seen only one,
not far from Athlit; but he was very tame and bold,
obviously without the least idea of being hunted or other
wise interfered with.
Oliphant, in his book on Haifa, has given an account of
the appearance of the father of Abbas Effendi, mentioned
on an earlier page, in a Court of Justice at Acre. Some
time ago Mr. Schumacher described to me the same
transaction, and last night he brought Mr. Cardahi, who
was present in Court.
According to the latter, the first question put to the Bab
was : —
" What is your name ? "
To that he replied : — " It is unnecessary to state my
name ; you know it well ; it is known in all the world."
It was then explained to the witness that it was absolutely
necessary that he should state his name.
To that he replied : — " My name is the Light of God."
He was next asked : —
" What is your occupation ? "
He answered : — I will tell you what I am not : I am not
a carpenter, I am not a camel driver ; but you need not ask
me any further questions, for I will answer none."
In Mr. Schumacher's version, a second and highly

i888] THE BAB 21
probable question was interposed between the two I have
quoted. " Who was your father ? "
To that the BaLb is said to have replied: — "If you ask
my followers they will tell you — that I had no beginning,
and shall have no end."
I suspect that Mr. Cardahi was the fountain-head alike
of the Oliphant and of the Schumacher version, but the
event occurred in 1871, and exactitude is not the strong
point of people in this country.
Thanks to one of those mysterious transactions familiar
to the justice of Turkey, the Bib did not again appear
before the tribunal.
2. I have been reading the first three and the last
chapters of Conder's book. Explorations in Syria in 1881
and 1882. He thinks that Tyre in the days of its highest
prosperity covered only about one hundred acres. If that
be so, it is infinitely creditable to the energy of so small a
place that it should have made so much noise in the world.
The account of Kadesh, the Hittite Capital on the Orontes,
is the portion of the book which had most interest for me.
The author says that that place was attacked not only by
Rameses IL, but before his time by Thothmes IIL, who
fought a battle with the Hittites at Megiddo, another
association to be added to the many which cluster round
the plain of Esdraelon.

22 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
3. We have annexed two new pets. The day before
yesterday lseult captured amongst the blue anemones and
cyclamens of the Nazareth Road, Testudo Ibera, and an
hour later Victoria found Hyla Arborea. This is the green
frog of which my wife took eight specimens to England
from old Lord Brougham's garden at Cannes in May, 1862.
She managed to keep them alive for a long time — one of
them for two years and a half. Those were the days of
our Saturday breakfasts, and many is the eminent person
whom I have seen engaged in catching flies for their
maintenance. We drove to-day to a point between the village of Tireh
and the sea, where we collected a good many roots of a
species of Iris hitherto unknown to me.
4. I have been reading in Dr. Thomson's work, called
the Land and the Book, the section which deals with
Phoenicia and Lebanon. I shall have something to say
about Dr. Thomson's merits and demerits a Uttle later;
but on turning from his pages to-day to look up Sidon and
Tyre in Smith's Dictionary of the Bible, I found two articles
by the late Mr. Edward Twisleton, whose sad end all our
society so much deplored. Of these the one upon Tyre
seems to me of the highest merit, and I take from it the
following remarks. After quoting Benjamin of Tudela's
account of the prosperity of Tyre in his day, Mr, Twisleton
says : —

TYRE 23

" In fact at this period and down to the close of the thirteenth
century, there was perhaps no city in the known world with
stronger claim than Tyre to the title of the 'Eternal City,'
if experience had not shown that cities as well as individuals
were subject to decay and dissolution. Tyre had been the
parent of colonies, which at a distant period had enjoyed a
long life, and had died, and it had survived more than 1500
years its greatest colony, Carthage. It had outlived .(Egyptian
Thebes, and Babylon, and ancient Jerusalem. It had seen
Grecian cities rise and fall ; and although older than them all,
it was in a state of great prosperity when an illustrious Roman,
who had been sailing from ..Egina to Megara, told Cicero, in
imperishable words, of the corpses or carcasses of cities, the
'oppidorum cadavera,' by which in that voyage he had been
in every direction encompassed. Rome, it is true, was still
in existence in the thirteenth century, but in comparison with
Tyre, Rome itself was of recent date, its now twice consecrated
soil having been merely the haunt of shepherds or robbers for
some hundred years after Tyre was wealthy and strong."
5. Walked through the grove of venerable olives which
runs along the foot of Carmel; then leaving the others,
went with the two younger ones across the plain to look
for scarlet anemones. We found them at last on the edge
of the sea amongst the ruins of Haifa el Atikah, which was
taken by Tancred in the first Crusade. After they had
gathered enough, the sun declined through a golden haze,
the clouds came down on the hills of Zebulon, and we
passed homewards, Lily singing, as she wandered along,
snatches from Faber's Pilgrims of the Night.
9. Pollock's Personal Remembrances reached me some

24 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
ten days ago. I have now finished them, and have marked
a good many passages, a few of which I note.
At page 58 of vol. i. there is an extremely wise letter
from the old Lord Chief Baron to his son about education.
At page 179 there is an account of Carlyle's talk, which
is very like what I remember of it. Pollock says : —
"As always happened, when I saw him in later years,
and he used to break forth in his wild and strange way, I
did not believe half of what he said. It was grim enough
very often, but there was always a great deal of latent
humour in it all. In the middle of his most trenchant
denunciations there would be a twinkle of the eye, and a
laugh, and a sort of quiet, mental dig in the ribs, as much as
to say, ' You must not think this is all quite serious. ' "
At page 261 there is a very interesting letter of Pollock's
own, dated nth April 1848, giving an account of his own
proceedings when in command of a considerable force of
special constables the day before.
At page 23 of vol. ii. there is an amusing entry dated
in 1854, to the effect that when Landseer was presented to
the King of Portugal, His Majesty said : " Ah ! I am glad
to see you, I always like beasts ! "
At page 109 it is related that Sarah Coleridge said of
Wordsworth "that he wrote like a poet"; of Henry
Taylor, "that he looked like a poet"; and of Aubrey de
Vere, " that he lived like a poet."
At page 19s there is a notice of a very amusing speech

SIR F. POLLOCK'S REMINISCENCES 25
by Brookfield, in which, commenting upon a misleading
omission which had been made in an official document, he
said : —
"Such mistakes were very serious, but such things did
sometimes occur, and it reminded him of a notice he had
seen outside a poulterer's shop in the Borough: — 'A lot of
live Ostend rabbits on sale. Any person wishing to buy
one will be skinned and trussed ready for roasting in five
minutes.'" At page 220 the following passage occurs in an account
of the Dilettanti : —
"Originally the qualification for membership was that the
candidate had been met in Italy by the proposing member.
Upon one occasion, however, a candidate was elected who had
been met at Avignon — a place at the time certainly more
Italian than French in its associations. When the mistake
was discovered, in order to make the election valid, a special
resolution was passed, 'that in the opinion of the Society,
Avignon is in Italy.' But in order to prevent the establish
ment of a dangerous precedent, a second resolution was
carried, 'that in the opinion of this Society, Avignon is the
only town in France which is in Italy.' "
At page 240 it is mentioned on the authority of Van
de Weyer, that at a diplomatic conference Talleyrand
pointed to a sentence and remarked, "I suppose this
means so and so." To which it was repHed, "Cela va
sans dire," and Talleyrand rejoined, "Oui certainement,
mais cela va mieux en le disant,"

26 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
10. When will Christianity have disengaged itself from
the mass of doubtful history, blundered chronology, manifest
myths, equally manifest legends, stories invented for national
glorification, stories invented for political or class purposes,
stories invented for edification, amidst which any one who
is chiefly occupied, as I am at present, in studying the
past of this country, must perforce spend his time ? Most
of these it borrowed straight from Judaism, and then set
to work decorating its own early history with the same
precious ornaments !
Of course it was all inevitable. No one can spring
away from his own shadow. Vast as was the improvement
which they made in Judaism, all the early followers of
Christ, however hostile to each otherj were Jews, and
worked largely on Jewish lines.
How delightful it is, nevertheless, to escape from the
clatter of all this machinery into a higher atmosphere — to
this day forty-five years ago, and to the words "Je crois,
j'aime, j'adore, je me repens." ^
Mr. Wurmser, an Alsatian Jew from Colmar, who
superintends the colony at Zimmarim, called on me,
and mentioned in the course of conversation that
the words "Zichron Jacob" on the curious token
piastre, which circulates there and here, mean " Memorial
of Jacob," the "Jacob" being none other than the
' Ricit d'une Sceur, vol. ii.

i888] LORD DUFFERIN 27
famous financier, James Rothschild, who founded the
colony. The moment belongs to the cyclamen — Kopfluingele, as
the good Germans round us prettily call it. The yellow
Star of Bethlehem, a species of Gagea, is also now tolerably
abundant on the lower slopes of Carmel.
13. The mail brings a long and excessively interesting
letter from Lord Dufferin, which is dated ist January, but
has been to the India Office and York House.
Amidst many things not to be alluded to here, he tells
me that one of the pleasantest days of his life was spent
upon Carmel with Cyril Graham; then follows a full
account of his recent tour to Kapurthala, Karachi, Quetta,
Sukkur, Dera Ismail Khan, the Khyber, Rawal Pindi, and
Benares. Speaking of the mountain which rises over the western
terminus of the Harnai route, he says : —
"The view from the summit is beautiful, for at your feet
there stretches a crimson sea of sand interspersed with black
islands of basalt, with the blue hills behind Candahar rising on
the horizon."
His account of things Burmese is distinctly cheering —
inter alia — he remarks: —
"Another very good thing is that we have discovered a
Sanatorium close to Mandalay far healthier than any hill
station that is to be found in India itself; in fact it is like a
bit of England, greensward^ oaks, cowslips, and blankets at

z8 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
night. The official report of the place reads more like an idyll
from Theocritus than a military document."
I should have noted that by last Wednesday's mail I
received from Arthur a description of the ceremony which
took place when his Chief went with his subordinates to
present his credentials as Ambassador, Madrid having just
been raised from a Legation to an Embassy.
A sad echo of our Indian time comes from Rome, where,
on the ist. Miss Somers Cocks and Miss Macpherson
attended the requiem mass in Sta. Maria del Popolo for
Lucy Bethell, a charming little girl who was much at
Government House. They laid against the coffin, writes
the former to my wife, a wreath of snowdrops and the white
Richardia jEthiopica, so closely connected with the life
we all led at Ootacamund.
17. Mr. Haskett Smith breakfasted with us, and mentioned
that he had once heard a lecturer declaiming in a railway
carriage upon political grievances without number. At
length, turning to an old Lincolnshire farmer of Con
servative views, he said : — " And what, sir, is your
opinion?" "My opinion," replied the worthy man, "is
that no good will be effected until you reverse the result
of the Battle of Hastings ! "
I have been looking at a book consisting of a series of
extracts from the Talmud, made by Mr. Hershon and
published by Triibner. The text is more odd than edify-

i888] THE TALMUD 29
ing ; but I found no statement in it more amusing than
one in the preface, in which the author states that he once
lit upon a Hebrew book in the British Museum which
contained no fewer than seventy sermons on the text,
" And Jacob journeyed to Succoth."
There is a note to the introduction which runs as
follows : —
" Fancy, if all Bibles, of whatever size, had each the same
number of pages, each page the same number of lines, and each
line the same number of words ! You might then be able to
prick a pin through several pages and tell the very letters almost
of every page the pin had pierced. I have seen this done with
the Talmud, and the young Rabbi who performed the feat was, as
he well might be, considered as a wonder in his literary world."
That is the feat which the late Dr. Kalisch described to
Arthur !^ussell, Acton, and me at a breakfast at my house in
Queen's Gate Gardens. I think he said his own father
had performed it, and the number of pages was twelve.
On the Sth we had to go to look for the scarlet anemones.
Now they are so abundant that they almost come to look
for us; and the wild flowers generally, of which I am
keeping a careful record, are at last beginning to appear in
^ood earnest. Almost every day the children find one or
more new species.
In the garden the almond is in full blossom, so is Acacia
lophantha, and the Judas tree is just opening its buds.

30 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
19. I have finished in these last days the Land and the
Book — no small undertaking, for it consists of nearly
seven hundred pages of small print. The author, in all
important matters, is a bhnd guide indeed. His theological
opinions are mere Kohlerglaube ; but he had immense
knowledge of this country, in which he was a missionary
for five-and-twenty years, with an enviable power of
observing all common and obvious things which thousands
of more educated persons pass carelessly and rather stupidly
by. On such subjects as the cultivation of the olive, the
gatherings at the city gates, the life of the house-top,
climate, sheep and their shepherds, vineyard watchers —
and in short the thousand and one sights and sounds of
Syrian travel, as they mirrored themselves in the mind of
a man of general intelligence, with no scientific knowledge
and no historical knowledge that was not upside down — the
book is quite excellent.
Dr. Thomson gives me the impression of having been a
perfectly reliable authority as to matters which came within
his own knowledge. I quote accordingly the two most
striking things falling under that category which are re
corded by him : —
"This plain of Ijon has lately been rendered famous by a
most extraordinary storm. It was on the 28th of December.
Some friends of mine, from Hasbeiya, were coming down the

DR. THOMSON 31

hill by Kefr Keely, that village west of MatuUy, when one of
them called their attention to tall columns of mist over the
marsh of the Huleh. They came this way very rapidly, and
soon broke upon them with awful fury. Those of the party who
were from Khyam, on the east side of this plain, fled homeward.
My friends from Hasbeiya were driven before the blast to
Khureibeh, that little hamlet just north of us, and with difficulty
escaped to it. Those who attempted to reach Khyam perished
in the plain, although it is not more than two miles wide, and in
full view of their houses. Thus ten men died in a few minutes
from the mere chill of this wonderful wind. There was no
snow, no frost, and not much rain ; but the wind was perfectly
awful, driving and upheaving everything before it. These cold
winds draw out all animal heat with amazing rapidity. Not
only were these men chilled to death almost instantly, but
eighty-five head of cattle also perished before they could be
brotight to the village. The inhabitants have no tradition of a
similar catastrophe. People often perish in snowstorms on the
mountains, and on the vast desert of the Hauran ; but it was
never known before that a mere wind, and that down on this
low plain, could chill people to death. The storm scattered and
dispersed in various directions. It did much mischief here on
the hills of Naphtali, and over yonder on the Jaulan several
people perished by it, and many catde. It was felt along the
seaboard; and I myself caught a violent cold riding from
Beiriit to Sidon on that day. I examined into the accuracy
of these facts on the ground, and know them to be true."
"In the year 1846 a stork, becoming weary on its return
from the distant south, alighted on that mountain near
Safed, and was captured. Great was the astonishment of
the captors to find a silver locket suspended round its neck.
They took it to the governor, and he sent it to the Pacha of

32 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
Acre, who forwarded the locket to our Consul in Beirut. It
contained a letter from Octavia, a young countess of Gotzen,
in Germany, to the effect that this stork had for several
years built its nest on an old turret of her castle ; that this
year the turret fell and injured the bird. She had it kindly
cared for, and, when well enough to follow its companions,
let it go, with the locket on its neck. The enclosed letter
contained a request that whoever found the bird or the locket
should send the writer word at any cost, as she had a great
curiosity to trace its wanderings. The Consul wrote to the
young lady, giving all the particulars, for which, in due time,
he received a handsome acknowledgment. All this is
simple fact, of which I myself was cognisant. The poor
stork died, and perhaps it had never recovered entirely from
its misfortune at Octavia's castle, and this compelled it to
halt at Safed, where it was captured. These singular birds
do not breed in Syria, but pass over it to Asia Minor, and
into North- Western Europe."
Looked again, in the records of the Survey of Western
Palestine, at the paper on the topography of the first known
journey in this country, that of the Egyptian officer, which
is referred to the fourteenth century B.C. — say to about the
days of Sisera. He seems not to have come to Haifa, but
to have struck inland at some point between Tyre and Acre
on his road to Tarichaea, at the point where the Jordan
leaves the Lake of Gennesaret, where he had a rendezvous
with other Egyptian officers. It would have been better for
him if his business had allowed him to come this way, for
the chariot in which he travelled was badly injured on the

THE BOOK OF JOB 33
rough roads which he followed on his way from Tarichaea to
Jaffa. To-day I had re-read to me for the first time, I should
think, since the year i860, Renan's Etude sur le poeme de
Job, an admirable essay, of which the following sentences
strike the key note : —
"La contradiction, en de pareilles matierfes, est le signe
de la verity ; car le peu qui se revile k I'homme du plan de
I'univers se r^duit k quelques courbes et k quelques nervures,
dont on ne voit pas bien la loi fondamentale et qui vont se
reunir k la hauteur de I'infini. Maintenir en presence les
uns des autres les besoins ^ternels du coeur, les affirmations
du sentiment moral, les protestations de la conscience, le
temoignage de la realite, voilk la sagesse. La pensee
g6n6rale du livre de Job est ainsi d'une parfaite v6rit^.
C'est la plus grande legon donnee au dogmatisme intemper-
ant et aux pretensions de I'esprit superficiel k se m61er de
theologie ; elle est en un sens le resultat le plus haut de
toute philosophie, car elle signifie que I'homme n'a qu'k se
voiler ,1a face devant le problfeme infini que le gouvernement
du monde livre k ses meditations. Le pidtisme hypocrite
d'Eliphaz et les intuitions hardies de Job sont egalement en
defaut pour resoudre une telle enigme ; Dieu lui-meme se
garde d'en livrer le mot, et, au lieu d'expliquer I'univers k
I'homme, il se contente de montrer le peu de place que
I'homme occupe dans I'univers."
22. Mail arrives : A letter from Pollock, confirmed by
one to my wife from Stephen, and one from Mallet to me,
brings the sad news of the sudden death at Cannes of Sir
Henry Maine. Not long ago I wrote to Acton that I
VOL. II. c

34 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
thought Maine, in spite of his exceedingly troublesome
health, would live to 80 ; but he has gone from us at 66.
I became acquainted with him in the spring of 1853,
through the accident of his having liked the paper on
Roman Law and Jurisprudence which I sent up to him the
first time I stood for the Law Studentship at the Inns of
Court. He strongly advised me to stand again at the next
opportunity. I did so, and got the Studentship.
From that time. May 1853, onward, I was extremely in
timate with him, till he went to India in 1862, and he was
twice at Eden before my father's death in 1858.
In those days he had frightfully bad health, and when he
went to Calcutta I certainly never thought to see him again,
though I strongly supported his going, thinking it far better
that he should die in great prosperity there, than, as I felt
sure would be the case if he a second time refused the
appointment which the Secretary of State had offered to
him, die of chagrin and in adversity at home.
I saw him frequendy on his holiday visits to England, and
was in close correspondence with him towards the end of his
time, when he was Law Member of the Governor-General's
Council and I was Under Secretary of State. We were once
more brought into very intimate relations after he had re
turned from India, in comparatively robust health, and the
Duke of Argyll had made him a Member of his Council. I
was in favour of his succeeding Herman Merivale in 1874.

SIR HENRY MAINE 35
My chief, however, thought otherwise, and I soon saw that
he was right in preferring Mallet for the post of Permanent
Under Secretary.
After I left the India Office in 1874 I had fewer oppor
tunities of meeting him, and he was a very infrequent
correspondent of any one, except upon business subjects.
Still, he was one of those whom I was most delighted to see
when I returned to England a year ago. I put him in the
very first rank in point of ability of the men I have known —
decisively below no one of them except Henry Smith.
He had defects which would have prevented him ever, I
think, being of first-rate importance as a man of action ; but
if he had been born with good means, and had had an early
introduction into politics, he would in quiet times have gone
very far indeed. I say emphatically in quiet times, for he
had not the qualities required in rough or dangerous ones.
Mr. Webster, of Edgehill, referring to a phrase in these
Notes for October last about Palma Vecchio's daughters,
writes : —
" The memory of the three faces has never left me since
I was blessed with a too short but memorable vision of them
when at Dresden. I could dilate upon that picture at any
length of praise, and I almost deprecate your speaking of
any other masters or works in the same sentence which you
devote to the glowing, glorious, time-conquering Venetian
girls." In the quarterly statement of the Palestine Exploration

36 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
Fund for January 1886, I have lit on a Catechism of the
Druse religion, which bears curiously upon the conversation
at Sidon, recorded above. Here is an extract from the
Epistle of Warning which precedes the Catechism : —
" We command the company of the Unitarian shepherds
to observe the mystery of religion in their deeds, and not to
let any of the Kafirs who do not believe in the Governor and
his prophets, who were mentioned in the Form of Oath, to
understand the religion of our Lord, of whatsoever religion
they may be — no, not even those of your own religion,
who are of the Ja-hi-leen (i.e. not true believers), or the
apostate ones. Take care ! Take care ! ! not to let any one
understand your religion or your belief, or even take notice
of it. Be careful ! Be careful ! and if after your being
careful you know of any of the Polytheists who have acquired
any knowledge of the truth of your religion, you must destroy
him, and if you cannot destroy him, then poison him secretly,
and whatever you do secretly is lawful to you.
" If any one come and tell you that he be of the Unitarians,
do not acquaint him with the truths of your religion, because
there be many who may come in a subtle way merely to
know the truth of your religion, and the mode of your
worship." And here are some extracts from the Catechism itself : —
Q. " And if we talk about religion how shall our answer be ?"
A. " Our Lord has commanded that we should cloak ourselves
with the prevailing religion, whether it be Christianity or
Islamism, for our Lord the Governor has said: 'Whatever
religion prevails, follow it openly, but keep me in your hearts. ' "
Q. " But how can we agree with the Mahommedans by con
fessing that Mahommed is a prophet, and that he is the

i888] THE DRUSE CATECHISM 37
noblest of all prophets and of all creatures ? And is he a
prophet?" A. "No, he is not a prophet  Outwardly we
confess that he is our prophet, merely to be at peace with his
people only ; but inwardly we beheve him to be a monkey, and
a devil, and one not born in wedlock, and that he has allowed
what is not lawful, and has committed all kinds of shameful
deeds." Q. "Since he is a monkey and a devil, and not born in
wedlock, why do we therefore chant his name ? "
A. " By the name of Mahommed, which we chant, we mean
our Lord, Mahommed Baha-iid-Deen (Brightness of Religion)
surnamed our Lord the Faithful."
Q. "Where does our Lord reside now, and when will he
manifest himself to us ?"
A. " He now resides in China. He appeared or manifested
himself five times. The first time he appeared in Persia, and
was known by the name of Selman el Farisi, and he was a
geometrician. The second time he appeared in Egypt, and
was called El Hakim Biamrihi (the Sole Governor), and his
occupation was the civil government. The third time he
appeared in Algeria, and was known by the name of Baha-iid-
Deen (Brightness of Religion), and his occupation was a silver
smith. The fourth time he appeared in Andalusia, and was
known by the name of Elhikmet (Wisdom), and was a physician.
The fifth time he appeared in El Hijaz, or Hedjaz (on the
eastern shore of the Red Sea), and was known by the name of
Mewla El Akil (Lord of Reason or Understanding), and his
occupation was camel-driver, and he had under his command
1000 camels, and thence he disappeared. He foretold his dis
appearance for a time, and hath commanded us to abide by his
obedience until he comes."
Q. "When will he come?"

38 NOTES FROM A DIARY [February
A. " When the cycle of time turns over, and the ages be
completed, and the Da-i-rah (circle) turns to the point of the
compass, and the wolf walks together with the sheep, and the
tiger with the ass, and when he is seen by the eyes and the
understanding, and when the secrets are disclosed, then cometh
the mighty and powerful one, with howling and thundering,
glory and a numberless army."
24. Finished recently a re-perusal of the first three
volumes of Renan's Origines du Christianisme.
The copy of the St. Paul I have here with me is the
same which I had at Alexandria Troas in 1872, and out of
which I was reading to my companions when, just as I had
finished its very last line, there came so strange an Amen !
(See these Notes for 1872.)
How litde "der gesunde Menschenverstand " has often
to do with the greatest revolutions in human affairs. A
vision on the road to Damascus ; a dream at Alexandria
Troas changed, and changed to its advantage, the face of
Europe. Kugler, in his book alluded to above, which has now
reached me, mentions that there is an old legend which tells
that every year on the anniversary night of the dissolution of
the Templars, a mailed phantom, with a red cross upon the
white mantle, appears in their tomb, and asks : —
"Who will rescue the Holy Sepulchre?"
" No one, no one ! " is the reply echoed back from the
vaulted roof, "for the Teniple is overthrown."

i888] THE CROCODILE 39
If Athlit had been in Europe, it is assuredly thither that
the ghostly visitant would be supposed to betake himself
Arthur Russell asked me some time ago to try and get
definite evidence of the existence of the crocodile in
Palestine. I conversed to-day with two German colonists,
one of whom had seen a live crocodile in the marshes of the
Crocodile river; and another had seen a crocodile just after
it had been killed near the same place. It was a female,
and its length was three metres.
26. Completed an examination of Conder's Handbook to
the Bible, in the course of which I have read such portions
of it as can be read continuously ; for its function is chiefly
that of a work of reference. The title misled me into
expecting something very different, but we are told in the
preface that " the main object of the writers was as far as
possible to avoid every expression of opinion, whether their
own or that of any school of thinkers.''
A handbook to the Bible worthy of the nahie could not
be constructed on such a basis !
In the chapter on historic synchronisms Pharaoh's
daughter is identified with Ha-Ta-Su ; and the Pharaoh of
the Exodus is made none other than Amenophis IIL, who
is represented by the vocal Memnon, and " is termed on the
monuments the ' Tamer of the Syrian Shepherds.' "
The last guess I had heard made the Pharaoh of the
Exodus Menepthah, who belonged to the nineteenth dynasty.

40 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
and between whom and Amenophis III. reigned Rameses
I., Seti I., and the great Rameses II.

March
I. The 28th February was one of the most beautiful days
I ever saw in any climate, and looked like the beginning of
a long course of fine weather. In the night, however, the
most glorious moonlight effects were suddenly interrupted
by a violent thunderstorm among the Galilean hills, followed
by a westerly gale which has sadly despoiled the beautiful
almond tree under my sitting-room window.
The disturbance makes me think of M. Arnold's —

"  tempestuous morn in early June,
When the year's primal burst of bloom is o'er.
Before the roses and the longest day.
When garden-walks and all the grassy floor
With blossoms red and white of fallen May
And chestnut's flowers are strewn."
I learnt this evening the name of a plant which, in default
of a Flora of Palestine, I have been trying for the last three
weeks vainly to discover. It is Ricotia lunaria, a litde Hlac
crucifer, which is at this moment a most delightful feature
in our walks, covering broken masses of rock d'ebris in such
abundance as to be visible from a considerable distance,
and running like a border all along the path which leads to

1888] THE ALMOND

4"

the Carmelite Monastery. Of the new flowers I have seen
here up to this time, it is the one which has given me the
greatest pleasure.
I think I have noticed the almond come into blossom on
the slopes of the Pincian fully sooner than it did here ; yet
in Hebrew, according to Tristram, its name is the "Hasten,"
"Shaked." He adds:—
" This explains the passage in Jeremiah i. 1 1, 12. The word
of the Lord came unto me, saying, Jeremiah, what seest thou ?
And I said, I see a rod of an almond tree (shaked). Then said
the Lord unto me. Thou hast well-seen : for I will hasten
(shaked) my word to perform it."
That very indifferent pun would, according to the old
fashion of Exegesis, have been unhesitatingly attributed to
divine inspiration !
The night before last we had an unheard of dissipation —
three people at dinner ! One of these was Dr. Torrance,
already mentioned, who is thinking of trying to ride across
from Tiberias to the Persian Gulf; the others were new
arrivals — a Mr. and Mrs. Ewing, employed like him by
some missionary society in Scotland. They had been
detained on their road no less than nine days at Bucharest
by the impossibility of crossing the Danube either by
sledge or boat.
3. The gale of the 29th was succeeded by a dead calm.
The air was perfectly still, even on the top of Carmel,

42 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marci
whence, on the evening of the ist, I looked down from a
height of about 700 feet upon the Bay. Later, however,
the weather again changed, and it blew furiously from the
west during the night of the ist, with heavy hail showers.
All yesterday the wind continued very high, and the Clio,
which ought to have left with our letters on the evening of
the 29th, only steamed out at 5 a.m. this morning.
My wife brought me from the garden a superb Iris, the
Susiana of Linnaeus, wild in Palestine.
Drove on the Acre sands. The Kishon which, when we
last forded it, was almost unpleasantly deep, has been again
nearly shut up by the storm. A soft land-wind was blowing,
and the whole air was filled with perfume which we dis
covered to proceed from the white broom, Retama roetam,
which is flowering in profusion among the sand hills. This
is the plant whose Hebrew name " Rothem " is translated
" juniper " even in our Revised Version, though the proper
translation figures in the margin.
While dressing for dinner my eye fell upon the Great
Bear straight opposite my window. I see that Proctor in
his Expanse of Heaven, which I have had read to me, says
that there is reason to believe that the five middle stars of
the seven belong to a class of suns far larger than our own,
but that the middle star of these five is now ranked as of
the fourth magnitude, and gives out only about one-third
part of the light which it gave two hundred years ago. If

i888] RENAN'S ECCLESIASTES 43
our sun were to undergo the same change, the writer above
mentioned pointed out that in a very short time scarcely any
form of vegetable life would remain upon our earth.
4. Finished re-reading Renan's Essay and Translation of
Ecclesiastes, in the copy which he sent me to Madras, He
inclines, with some hesitation, to B.C. 100 as the date of
the book, and considers the author to have been the ideal
Sadducee. It does not seem to have formed any part of
the Jewish hagiographs until after the destruction of
Jerusalem, when Jamnia became the centre of Jewish
learning and government. Some pious expressions, but
above all its attribution to Solomon, which assuredly the
author did not mean to be taken seriously, saved it from
being kept out of the Canon as was the case with the
far more pious Wisdom of Jesus the Son of Sirach, which
suffered by not having been put under the protection of
a great name.
The last four verses are no part of the book, but were
added by some other hand at a time when Ecclesiastes
stood last in the Jewish Canon.
Here is Renan's translation of them, which at least makes
sense, whereas in our version, verse 1 1 is pure nonsense ;
" Les dires des sages
Sont des aiguillons
Les clous qui soulagent
Les efforts volages
De I'attention.

44 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
" Le concile antique
Nous les a transmis
Comme oeuvre authentique
Vraiment canonique
D'un unique esprit."
The essay is full of true remarks admirably put, as, for
example, "en general du reste, on lit mal quand on lit a
genoux," and again ; —
" La destinee du peuple Juif ayant &t6 toute religieuse la
partie profane de sa Utt^rature a du 6tre sacrifici^e. Le Can-
tique et le Cohelet sont comme une chanson d'amour et un petit
ecrit de Voltaire 6gar^s parmi les in-folio d'une bibliothfeque de
theologie. C'est Ik ce qui fait leur prix. Oui, I'histoire d' Israel
manquerait d'une de ses principales lumi^res si nous n'avions
quelques feuillets pour nous exprimer I'^tat d'ime d'un Israelite
rdsign^ au sort moyen de I'humanite s'interdisant I'exaltation et
I'esperance, traitant de fous les prophfetes, s'il yen avait de son
temps, d'un Israelite sans utopie sociale ni r^ve d'avenir."
5. I have been looking through a book called Twixt
Greek and Turk, being the account of a journey made in
the autumn of 1880, by Mr. Chirol, whom I met at
Bucharest. The part of it which interested me most was
the account of the famous monasteries of Meteora, which
he found almost deserted ; the Colony of Monks, which
used to number between five hundred and six hundred
dispersed through twenty-four religious houses, having
dwindled down to twenty-one dispersed through seven only.
Mr. Chirol also recounts a conversation which he had

i888] THE ABBOT JOACHIM 45
on the subject with the Bishop of Stagos (Ivalabaka), and
says ; —
" When I confessed to a feeling of regret at the doom which
threatened to overtake the once flourishing colony of hermits, he
merely shrugged his shoulders. ' Vanity of vanities, all is vanity !
and even a vanity which has lived for eight hundred years scarcely
deserves a funeral oration.' — And when I pressed him further —
' Do you recollect,' he added, ' the parable of the talents, and
the servant who buried his in the earth ? You should have
asked the Hegoumenos of the great Meteora to read it to
you?'" 6. I gained to-day a new association for Tabor, for I
see in Longfellow's notes to the Paradiso, that that very
interesting personage, the Abbot Joachim, went thither and
lived in an old cistern for forty days.
8. This is the first really fine day we have had since
the 28th, but the flowers keep stealing out in spite of the
blustering weather, which must have made the bay an un
comfortable berth for a pretty English steam yacht, the
Lady Beatrice, which has been lying in it, even if two of
the gentlemen on board had not been badly injured by a
leopard near the Gulf of Iskanderfln.
On the 6th Lily brought me the first Adonis I have seen
here, and to-day I observed the Palestinian species of
hawthorn in blossom by the side of the main street of the
colony, but the leading flower of the moment is a small
blue Iris, the Reticulata, We found it in much abundance

46 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
when we went to gather the shells which the recent storm
has strewed along the beach of Tell es Samak.
This afternoon I was told that a dragoman with whom
I have been in correspondence had arrived from Beyrout,
and I propose to start to-morrow for a short excursion to
try his powers before attempting a longer journey.
9. With the usual appliances of Syrian travel in districts
where there are neither inns nor monasteries, I left Haifa at
ten this morning, and retraced the road, now become
almost as familiar to us as Pall Mall, which leads to that
portion of the Athlit sands where we often ride.
Thence we passed on, keeping close by the sea, to Athlit
itself. More perfect riding ground could not be found
until one arrives within about three miles of that place,
when the sand becomes too deep to be agreeable, either
to man or beast.
The grand ruin looked just as it did in December, but,
strange to say, the flowers in and around it were much less
conspicuous. Then one of its courts was quite filled with
the rare English plant Inula Crithmoides, the golden
samphire, while on the ridge of El Dustrey the crocuses
were very abundant, and here and there the tall white
spike of the medicinal squill rose from amongst them.
To-day the golden samphire, the crocuses, and the squill
were all out of bloom. The plant which chiefly caught
the eye, in the immediate neighbourhood of the buildings.

ATHLIT AND DOR 47
was the cheerful but not very interesting Senecio vernalis,
amidst which, here and there, were litde patches of the
always lovely blue pimpernel.
After some delay we moved on to the southward, along
the hne followed by Cceur de Lion on his march to Jaffa,
soon finding ourselves in a long allk, carpeted by green
grass and springing barley, which ran between a low line
of sandhills on the right and the nearly equally low
limestone ridge, on which the fort of El Dustrey was
placed, upon the left.
Everywhere, on either side of the path and in the path
itself, was the little blue Iris already mentioned, and the
scarlet anemones were likewise very numerous.
At length the lovely allee expanded into a small plain,
the sand hills retreating on the right, while the horizon in
front of us was cut by some seventeen or eighteen scattered
palms, and we passed, on the left, immediately under the
false Sarepta and the false Capernaum of mediaeval legend
already alluded to.
Soon, wheeling sharply to the right, we came to the
ruined ruins of Dor, the southernmost possession of the
Phoenicians. One fragment of these, probably of Crusading
times, which stands on a piece of land almost cut off from
the continent by a deep gully, is very conspicuous up and
down the coast.
We rode sufficiently near to see it well, and then, de-

48 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
scending into the pretty little bay over which it rises,
passed through the modern village of Tantfira, traversed a
large extent of arable land, and, crossing a stream, rose
through pleasant scenery, which brought to me odd and
indistinct reminiscences of Scotland on the one hand, and
of Mount Abu on the other, to the Jewish colony of
Zimmarim, seeing on the way both the blue and white
anemone, so common on the further side of Haifa, but of
which, till just the end of our ride, I had not all to-day
seen a single specimen.
We found our tents pitched on high ground, with the
sea in front and the so-called "Breezy Land" behind.
When I left my own quarters to go to the dining tent, I
was not a little delighted to find myself once more in
presence of the zodiacal light, and the stars after dinner
were certainly not inferior to those of Guindy, though I can
hardly say the same of the temperature.
IO. Later, it began to blow half a gale from the east, and
as our tents were in an exposed spot we had a lively tinie
of it. We were not in the saddle till after eight this
morning, when we picked our way down the rugged track
which leads from Zimmarim to the banks of the Crocodile
river, a slow, deep, Campagna-looking stream, which we
crossed by a bridge of a single arch.
We had not left it many minutes behind, when, on the
edge of a branch of it, now dry, I saw something which

1 888] CjESAREA 49
attracted my attention, and, riding up close, found that the
very first plant which had caught my eye on the Plain of
Sharon proper, which we had just entered, was nothing
more nor less than a very pretty and sweet-scented white
rose. A variety of plants have been deemed entitled to
the honour of being the Rose of Sharon, but the rose
itself has of late been quite " out of it,'' for the learned
say that the plant which we translate rose must have
been a bulb of some kind.
Ere long we came to a belt of sand hills, but interspersed
with them were many lovely stretches of turf dotted
amongst other things with a French-grey lupine, and a
plant which, if it was not Echium violaceum, was certainly
a very lovely violet Echium.
Soon the sandhills became covered with a thick growth
of Pistacia lentiscus, of which there would soon be a forest
in this neighbourhood if it were only properly conserved,
and this extended nearly to Caesarea, for which we were
making. Presently we turned aside to look at the remains of
Herod's Circus, where huge fragments of granite columns
still lie in desolation, useful to no creature save the bushes
of Anagyris fatida, which make their huge bulk a shelter
against the wind.
This had scarcely been passed when we found ourselves
close to the fortifications of the Crusading town which
VOL. II. D

so NOTES FROM A DIARY [March
occupied a mere fraction of the more ancient one of which
Eusebius was Bishop.
As I have mentioned above, the place has been handed
over to Bosnian colonists; but of these we saw at most
only one. The few inhabitants who were about belonged
to the ordinary population of this country.
The Crusading walls have been used as the foundations
of many of the new houses — which is at least better than
pulling them down and selling them for what they will fetch,
as has been done at Athlit and so many other places ; but
the new town which is being laid out on this site must be a
painful subject of reflection to the archaeologist, who knows
that under it lie, so to speak, a Crusading formation, a
Muhammadan formation, a Byzantine formation, a Roman
formation, a Herodian formation, and, in all probability, a
pre-Herodian formation as well.
After we had seen what little Caesarea had to show, we
rode off in the direction of Tantdra, and then struck across
the sand dunes, here even better covered with lentisk
thickets than where we had passed in the morning. After
many pleasant paths through green spaces, where Senecio
vernalis and a low-growing form of our ox-eye daisy were in
great profusion, we disengaged ourselves from the Arab
encampments, and forded a deep branch of the Crocodile
river, crossing another branch of it by a great masonry
dyke of the late Roman age, through which ran the water

l888] THE PHYLACTERY 51
pipes by which Caesarea used to be supplied. Then falhng
into our morning's route, we passed through a good store of
white and blue anemones, now reinforced by great numbers
of the delicate rose-pink Linum pubescens, which had not
opened its flowers when we passed early in the day. By
three o'clock we were back in Zimmarim.
A very still night was a great relief It had been
promised by the sun going down into the Mediterranean, as
I have seen it do among the Greek Isles, but as it happens,
not yet in Palestine, unobscured by a single cloud.
The morning was delightful, and in the open ground near
our camp were many flowers, of which it will be enough to
note the first Astragalus — a genus especially important in
this country — which I have seen since I landed, and a
large and exceedingly pretty Erodium.
II. After a visit to the director, who gave me the latest
facts relative to the curious experiment which is being con
ducted under the auspices of the Rothschilds at Zimmarim,
we visited the synagogue, where the leisure portion of the
community, or a part of it, was engaged, just as was the
case nineteen hundred years ago, in praying on behalf of
the rest. One aged Russian was pointed out to me as the
father of the doctor. The old gentleman had on his fore
head a frontlet of strange shape. It was no other than the
famous Phylactery, and this excellent person had broadened
his with a vengeance 1 I follow Smith's Dictionary in

52 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
supposing that it was not the Phylactery proper or the strip
of parchment which was broadened, but the case in which
the Phylactery proper was kept.
The Phylactery proper is a sort of amulet, consisting of
certain texts, which are written out with many precautions,
and enclosed in the case I have mentioned. The whole
article is well worth reading, full of curious learning. Some
Rabbis, it appears, thought that the Almighty Himself wore
these remarkable appendages. Anthropomorphism could
hardly have gone beyond that !
By nine o'clock we were well on our way, and having
descended by a breakneck path to the plains, hugged the
base of the hills for some distance, striking thereafter
diagonally across the green level till we got to El Dustrey,
to which I climbed to examine the remains of the old
Crusading fort.
Thence we pursued the road by which we drove to Athlit
in December, until an opportunity occurred to diverge from
it to the sands, which were in fine order for a gallop.
We came round the promontory below the lighthouse at
half-past two, and were startled to see the Consular flags in
the colony flying half-mast high. We pushed rapidly on,
fearing to receive bad news of the Crown Prince, but learnt
presently that it was the old Emperor who had gone to his
rest. I spent the afternoon with my wife, who was sketching

i888] HAIFA TO MEGIDDO S3
in the eastern olive wood. No domestic events had
occurred in my absence, save the Evasion of the Chameleon
{Chameleo Vulgaris), who had escaped from his box into the
conservatory, turning at the same time from black to yellow,
and the Invention of a leveret, a most attractive creature,
who had already made himself very much at home.
We left Haifa at 8 o'clock on the morning of the 1 3th,
my wife and Victoria being both now with me.
As far as Tell Keimftn, where the path descends from the
chapel of Elijah's sacrifice, our route was precisely the same
as that which I pursued, in the opposite direction, upon
December nth of last year. Now, however, the tempera
ture was a good deal lower, and the country was extremely
green. Just before arriving at the point where the Kishon and
the slopes of Carmel make the road narrowest, I saw for the
first time the very handsome Labiate, Eremostachys
laciniata ; and soon afterwards a new Iris of a pale yellow
colour, but very different from the one mentioned earlier in
this year, appeared upon the scene.
We made our mid-day halt just beyond the Wady el-Milh
(valley of salt), which separates Carmel ffom the less dis
tinguished range of hills, which begin to border the great
plain after it has been left behind. These are unlike
the more famous mountain, entirely destitute of shrubs,
wherever I saw them, but covered from base to summit

S4 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
by soft grass, except where the naked rock shows
through it.
They seem to receive a good deal of rain, and as we
advanced we crossed numerous small streams descending
from them, none, however, as powerful as that at the edge
of which we passed the night, and which is used for turning
several mills. This brook is, according to the usually
received opinion, " the waters of Megiddo."
Our camp commanded a good, though distant, view of
Nazareth, with the cliff absurdly called the Mount of the
Precipitation between us and it. Tabor, Little Hermon,
and Gilboa were all near and conspicuous objects.
I rose early on the 14th, and on leaving my tent found
myself under the most lovely mackerel sky, flushed with
rose pink, and a very few minutes after six the sun came
finely over the Transjordanic hills.
We were on the road by seven, and wound along the edge
of Esdraelon, crossing from time to time low spurs of the
limestone range which leads up to an old centre of volcanic
disturbance in the high eminence now known as Shekh
Iskander. After about an hour we passed the site of Taanach, a
strong village where the Canaanites were long able to resist
the Israelite invaders. Close to this we passed a low, rocky
mound, of which the Eremostachys had taken complete
possession ; and a little further on, amidst pleasant half-

i888] SAMARIA S5
English scenery, saw another characteristic Palestinian plant
of this season — the beautiful dark blue and white Lupinus
pilosus. Ere long we wheeled suddenly to the right, avoid
ing Jennin, and advanced through olive woods, passing
under the village of Yam6n.
A succession of easy and agreeable bridle-paths took us,
with good views of Shekh Iskander on the right, into the
Plain of Arabeh, close to which lay Dothan, famous in the
legends of Joseph and Elisha.
' Beyond the hills to the left, but at no great distance,
though out of sight, where the villages of S3,n1ir and
Mithilia, both of which have been plausibly enough put
forward as the Bethuha which figures in the historical
romance of Judith.
At length, near the prosperous village of Sileh, which is
surrounded by orchards of fig, almond, and apricot, we
came upon a fine view of the Mediterranean, looking down
over much the same country over which one looked up from
Zimmarim. From the neighbourhood of Sileh onwards
the road became very bad, but we reached our camping
ground at Samaria in time to walk about it, and to
inspect what remains of Herod's Colonnade, before
evening fell.
Near the village of Anaza, where we rested for lunch, my
wife brought me Veronica Syriaca, which I had not seen,
and which, as she truly said, looks as if it had been fashioned

56 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
by some one who wanted to make our English Speedwell,
but found that he had not sufficient material.
The thunder growled all through the night, and soon
after three in the morning a furious tempest burst over the
camp, where we were imprisoned for the next twelve
hours. After that the weather improved, and we were able to
visit the spot which has, since the days of Jerome — but
probably without any good reason — been venerated as the
tomb of John the Baptist. Thence a ride of less than an
hour carried us into the fine Valley of Nablous, near the
edge of which Lupinus pilosus was growing in huge masses
— decidedly the finest piece of flower effect I have yet
observed in this country.
The Valley of Nablous is really fertile — that is, it would
be considered so in regions far more favoured than
Palestine — thanks to the abundance of water at the
command of the peasantry. Here also they are making
what, if it is ever finished, will be what is understood by
a "road" in a civilised country. The valley is full of
olives, on which was growing in great abundance a Viscum,
very like our Enghsh species, but, unlike it, with red
berries. We passed the night of the isth at Nablous, the ancient
Shechem, and visited in the morning the Samaritan
synagogue, where the usual mystifications were gone

i888] JACOB'S WELL 57
through, and the usual false statements made, by the
Heads of that interesting race, now reduced to about one
hundred and thirty persons.
The town itself, with its dark passages alternating gloom
with sunshine, seemed to me more interesting than anything
these people either showed or could have shown.
As we rode off, when this performance was over, one
could not help thinking that the natural and proper capital
of Palestine was here. Probably the close neighbourhood
of Gerizim, which rises to the south, and of the even loftier
Ebal, which rises to the north, both of them commanding
the town, made Shechem unsuitable for a political centre in
an age of constant war.
We had hardly left the valley properly so called, and
entered upon the great adjoining plain of the Mukhna,
when we diverged from the road to visit the reputed tomb
of Joseph. Far more interesting than it is the little village
of Askar, on the hillside identified with the ancient Sychar
and Jacob's Well, which is hardly, if at all, surpassed in the
sacredness of the associations attached to it by any site
in Palestine.
It is of it that Renan says, so well : —
"Femme, crois-moi, lui r^pondit Jesus, I'heure est venue
oil I'on n'adorera plus, ni sur cette montagne, ni k Jerusalem,
mais oil les vrais adorateurs adoreront le Pfere en esprit et en
veritd." "Le jour oil il prononga cette parole il fut vraiment fils de

S8 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
Dieu. II dit pour la premiere fois le mot sur lequel reposera
I'ddifice de la religion dternelle. II fonda le culte pur, sans date,
sans patrie, celui que pratiqueront toutes les imes elevdes jusqu'
k la fin du temps. Non-seulement sa religion, ce jour Ik, fut la
bonne religion de I'humanite, ce fut la religion absolue ; et si
d'autres plan^tes ont des habitants douds de raison et de
moralite, leur religion ne peut etre difif(^rente de celle que Jesus
a proclamee pr^s du puits de Jacob. L'homme n'a pu s'y tenir ;
car on n'atteint I'iddal qu'un moment. Le mot de Jdsus a 6i6 un
eclair dans une nuit obscure, il a fallu dix-huit cents ans pour
que les yeux de I'humanite (que dis-je ! d'une portion infiniment
petite de I'humanitd) s'y soient habitues. Mais I'dclair deviendra
le plein jour, et, aprfes avoir parcouru tous les cercles d'erreurs,
I'humanitd reviendra k ce mot-Ik, comme k I'expression im
mortelle de sa foi et de ses esperances."
Hill and valley alternated without disclosing anything
which I need record here, till we stopped for rest at the
ruined Khan of Lubban, which stands near the Lebonah
of the Book of Judges, still an inhabited village. Nothing
could exceed the ugliness of the valley on which we looked
down, unredeemed as it was by even a growing crop, for it
had not yet been sown this year. After leaving it we made
a considerable detour through really hideous scenery, to
visit the site of Shiloh, where the Tabernacle was believed
to have long stood. It is difficult to understand how such
a place, even in a country which has so little to show in
the way either of beauty or grandeur, should have been
selected as the religious centre. We regained our route
across a relatively well cultivated plain on which Shiloh

i888] SHILOH

S9

looked down, and whose proximity must have been the
only recommendation of that place.
Twilight had nearly come when we reached our tents,
which had been pitched at a lonely spot named, and well
named as we had occasion to discover, Ain-el-Haramiyeh —
the Fountain of the Thieves, our camp having been visited
in the middle of the night by some of that fraternity, who
were, however, surprised before they obtained any booty of
value. It was curious to have seen in one day three places
connected with such a totally different set of rehgious
associations as Jacob's Well, Mount Gerizim, and Shiloh :
the first representing their highest possible embodiment ;
the second, with its strange and barbarous Passover sacri
fice, taking us back to the Temple at Jerusalem; and
the third belonging to a period when the presence of the
tribal God of Israel was supposed to be attached in some
peculiar manner to the National Palladium known as
the Ark. Shiloh never recovered the loss of it to the
Philistines. I had thought that the spring was rather late at Haifa,
having regard to what I saw last year on the 2nd of January
in the neighbourhood of Jaffa; but our journey of the i6th
took us through a region where it was very much less ad
vanced. Things, however, became much worse when we
passed out of Samaria and the possessions of Ephraim to the

6o NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
dreary uplands of Benjamin. There the Flora was
wretchedly meagre, alike in the number of species and of
individual plants.
We caught our first view of Jerusalem — a very distant
one — from Bethel, a truly frightful spot, the chief character
istics of which are the extraordinary masses of limestone
rock lying upon the ground like nothing but the pillows of
giants, and reminding one strangely of the legend which
connects it with Jacob's dream. I had not grasped the fact
that Jeroboam's southern rehgious capital, where the tribal
God of Israel was worshipped under the form of a calf, was
within sight of Jerusalem, where already a more worthy
method of thinking of the Divine had received official
sanction. We halted in the middle of the day near Ramah, shelter
ing ourselves as best we could against a fierce, though
happily not cold, gale which was blowing from the west,
and came down past the viUage which still recalls the name
of Jehoshaphat, to the Damascus gate. We had some diffi
culty in choosing our camping ground, but at length found
a suitable spot on the edge of the Mount of Olives, within
five minutes' walk of the garden of Gethsemane.
22. We left Jerusalem this morning. I had returned
thither merely to show it to my wife and Victoria, but I
refreshed some of my own recollections and did a few new
things, which I note.

i888] GETHSEMANE 6i
On the i8th we went to the Benediction at Notre Dame
de Sion, and chmbed afterwards with the Mother Superior
to the top of the building, which commands one of the best
views in the city. On the same day we sat long in the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, watching the devotions of
the Russian pilgrims ; and later, my wife read aloud in the
Garden of Gethsemane The Christian Year for the Monday
before Easter, which is specially appropriate to the place,
and, to my thinking, one of the finest poems in the collec
tion. It is that which begins : —
" ' Father to me Thou art, and Mother dear.
And Brother too, kind Husband of my heart' —
So speaks Andromache, in boding fear.
Ere from her last embrace her hero part —
So evermore, by Faith's undying glow.
We own the crucified in weal or woe.
Strange to our ears the church bells of our home,
The fragrance of our old paternal fields
May be forgotten ; and the time may come
When the babe's kiss no sense of pleasure yields
Even to the doting mother : but Thine own
Thou never canst forget, nor leave alone."
On the 19th we rode to Bethlehem. It chanced to be
St. Joseph's day, and we were present at the High Mass in
the Latin Monastery.
On the 20th we received the Communion in the chapel
of Abraham's sacrifice, which forms part of the buildings of
the Holy Sepulchre in the occupation of the Greeks, and

62 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
was lent for the purpose by the Patriarch. The celebrant
was Mr. Spicer, an English clergyman born in Australia,
with whom we fell in the other day at Samaria ; there was
no one present save his wife and ourselves. After the
ceremony we all walked over the Temple enclosure.
When I was last at Jerusalem I saw Bethany under
morning light; on the 20th I saw it in the evening, which
suited it much better. Nothing could be lovelier than the
distant view of the Jordan Valley and the Moab Mountains.
On the 2 ist I went with the Archimandrite Stephanos
to see the Greek Patriarch who was residing some way from
Jerusalem at Katamon, the legendary site of the House of
Simeon, and on the way back to the city passed the
Monastery of the Place of the Cross, which I had not
previously seen.
The same day I went to visit the Pasha, whose acquaint
ance I made in December 1886, had a long talk with Mr.
Moore, and spent an hour with Dr. Schick, the German
architect, who, with infinite ingenuity, has constructed
models of the Solomonic and Herodian temples.
Our encampment being exactly on the opposite side of
Jerusalem from the Annexe to the Mediterranean Hotel,
known as the Bishop's House, which I occupied at
Christmas, 1886, enabled me to see many things from a
new point of view.
Nothing could be more lovely than the weather, and the

i888] THE KIDRON VALLEY 63
effect of the sun gradually hghting up the city, the cross
on the top of the Holy Sepulchre being the first object to
catch the light, was not to be forgotten. I shall always
connect with our camp on the Mount of Olives a pretty
little yellow Hypecoum which was abundant round it. My
wife brought it to me for the first time at Ramah ; I had
never before fallen in with this curious genus of the poppy
family. Having been provided with the usual Arab escort, we
moved away shortly after ten o'clock, and, passing slowly
between the village and the fountain of Siloam, soon turned
our backs upon the Holy City and wound along the dry
Kidron Valley. Very dry it was, but the slopes were not
quite as bare of vegetation as I expected. The most con
spicuous plant was the yellow Ononis, which I found in
January 1887. After about a. couple of hours we halted in
the shade of a great rock, under which the maiden hair was
growing plentifully, starved and withered, it is true, for
the season in Southern Palestine has been far drier than
in the North. Round the same spot I found the scarlet
anemones nearly over, and the tall asphodel almost quite
so, but a handsome Anchusa was in full flower, as were the
blue pimpernel, Podonosma Syriacum, a white Allium, and,
more sparingly, the Star of Bethlehem. All the same, the
neighbourhood would be much the better for the river of
Ezekiel's vision !

64 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
During the second half of our ride there was nothing to
observe, save the Bedouin encampments and an exception
ally picturesque well, where many of their inhabitants were
watering their flocks. At length, after we had been about
four hours out, we turned to the right and passed, with the
deep gorge of the Valley of Fire on our left, to the
Monastery of Mar Saba.
This would be an interesting spot if there clung round
it any of the associations which give such a charm to places
like Subiaco or the Grande Chartreuse. There is nothing,
however, of this kind, and it has litde to recommend it but
its strangeness and its position at the world's end.
I do not think I should have gone thither unless I had
expected to see the jackals fed by the Monks, and the black
and yellow grackle, Amydrus Tristramii, flying about. In
both these objects, however, I was disappointed. The
jackals were fed at an inconvenient hour, and the birds
have, as the Monks truly or falsely asserted, been driven
away by the increased number of persons who have lately
passed through these wilds.
On the 23rd we had to make an early move, and, travers
ing regions where the vegetation had a very desert character
and where I would fain have lingered to make collections,
reached, after more than four hours, the great depression
in which Hes the Dead Sea.
I found the bridle-paths far better than I had expected,

l888] THE DEAD SEA 65
and there was one stretch of ground where we were able to
have a long canter.
We saw to the north the Sanctuary of Neby Musa, where
a great Mahomedan festival takes place in April, and in a
deep ravine I came suddenly upon a magnificent Orobanch,
like a flaming torch, which I think I can be hardly wrong in
supposing to be Phelipxa lutea.
I had not been prepared to find that the streams which
descend the Wadys had cut such tremendously deep
channels as they have in the silt of the Jordan Valley. In
one of these, which we crossed on our way to the Dead Sea,
Retama roetam had grown into a tree, and very lovely it
must have been before it went out of flower.
I paid the waters of the beautiful Lake Asphaltites, for it
is beautiful, the compliment of tasting them, and most
horrid they are ; but was not tempted to bathe.
There is nothing attractive between them and the
thickets of Jordan. It is a waste of marl, haunted amongst
other evil things, by an odious little creature like the South
Indian eye-fly, whose special weakness, however, is getting
into your ear.
I should have bathed in the Jordan if we had had it to
ourselves, but unluckily our arrival at the bathing-place
coincided with that of a perfect horde of travellers, and we
fled higher up the stream to a point where it ran like a mill
race. There we spent some time in a thicket more like an
VOL. II. E

66 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
Indian jungle than anything I have seen since I went out of
Bombay harbour.
After leaving it we made for our tents, which had been
pitched on the extreme western side of the plain close to the
fountain known as Ain es Sulta,n, the site I suppose of the
Jericho of the "Conquest." The Jericho of the New
Testament is thought to have been a little further to the
south. The modern village of Er-Riha, which preserves the
name of Jericho, appears to date from the twelfth century
only. Quite close to it must have been the ancient
Gilgal. A fine object in approaching Ain es Sultan was the
Quarantania, associated with the legend of the Temptation.
It is interesting to know that the top of this mountain, from
which all the kingdoms of the world were visible, is actually
lower than the surface of the Mediterranean.
24. A very trying march, hotter than anything I ever felt
in India, for in that country one does not travel on horse
back right through the day, took us to the mouth of the
Wady Firah; there was little to see on our route, which
lay over the bare open surface of the Jordan Valley. Four
weeks ago the grass must have been green, but already it
was quite burnt up, and the Bedouins had gone higher to
find pasture for their flocks.
Here and there was a little oasis where water came down

1888] THE JORDAN VALLEY 67
from the hills, and one saw what fertility would be called
into life by a canal brought from the Lake of Gennesaret,
parallel to the Jordan; but, as it was, by far the most
conspicuous plant was a small, shrivelled, and very curious
Statice. We stopped for rest on the site of Phasaelis, and
wondered why Herod had ever built at such a spot, or
imagined that the town which he constructed could be an
acceptable present to his sister, or any one else.
To the north of Phasaelis rises to the height of some
2400 feet above the valley the remarkable cone of the
Surtabeh, a point so conspicuous that one would have
expected to find it making a great figure in history, which,
however, though not unknown to the Talmud, it does not
do. Just as we were getting to our camping ground I saw,
planted in an orchard of Zizyphus trees which had been
formed along a stream, a tall Calotropis like a much
exaggerated specimen of my Madras friend, the Mudar.
This could be nothing else than " the Osher," which some
persons identify with the apple of Sodom, but, unfortunately,
it was not in fruit.
The Solanum Sanctum, which used to be promoted to
that honour, I saw in some abundance at Er-Riha yester
day. To-day we came upon a great company of storks, which

68 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
appeared to be discussing the question whether the time
had not come for migrating to the north, but of the Sun-
birds of Jericho we have not seen one, nor am I quite
certain whether a fruit which I yesterday gathered is
that from which the so-called false balm of Gilead is
made.i The true or ancient balm of Gilead is supposed
to have been the product of the Balsamodendron Gileadense
which was once cultivated with great care near Jericho,
but has not been discovered in that neighbourhood. The
false or modern balm of Gilead is the Balanites .^gyptiaca,
which is still grown to some extent there,
25. Breaking up our camp at the mouth of the Wady
F^rahj we soon plunged into a very picturesque and
formidable defile. This we followed for a considerable
time, rising and falUng thereafter through a somewhat
more open region, till we passed a high cdl and came
down through olive woods to Jacob's Well and Nablous.
It was interesting to find the name of SiUm, the
village near Aenon where John was baptising, still in use.
The waters by which we were encamped last night were
finding their way to the Jordan from that historical spot
which has not, I think, been very long identified.
The Jordan Valley when we left it was full of the haze
of heat, and in some of the defiles which we traversed we
met strange and violent blasts which seemed to come
' I found l*ter at Kew that my guess was correct,

i888] GERIZIM 69
from the mouth of a furnace; yet when we reached
Nablous a furious and cold west wind was hurrying clouds
along the face of Ebal and Gerizim, as I have seen it do
at the same season along the face of the Pyrenees.
The botanical sensation of our ride was the finding
of what must surely have been the parent form of the
cultivated hollyhock.
In the late afternoon I climbed Gerizim, in spite of
the wildness of the weather, and reached the scene of the
Samaritan Passover, of which a full account is given by
Dean Stanley in one of the Appendices to his Sermons in
the East.
Asphodeline lutea was sufficiently abundant to be always
Unked in my mind with a headlong scramble in the
rapidly fading light and swirling mists of the Mount of
Blessing. Such an expedition had better become its
opposite neighbour.
26. From Nablous we followed down the whole length
of its pleasant valley, keeping along the line of the new
road which, as I have mentioned above, is in course of
construction. At length the olives were replaced by the
barley, which gives its Arabic name to the whole of the
Wady. Growing along the edges of the fields in numbers
numberless was the lovely little Venus's looking-glass.
Nearly where it meets the great Plain of Sharon we left
the Barley Valley, and, changing our direction from west

70 NOTES FROM A DIARY
to north, passed on by paths which overlooked a fine, well-
cultivated district dominated by frequent villages strongly
situated upon heights, to Burka, a place quite out of the
usual track of Palestinian travel, where we passed the
night. We left Burka and its pretty giris, the prettiest I have
seen in Palestine, before six o'clock, and took our way to
the northward, over excellent riding-paths, and across a
country which might have been any unenclosed portion
of Central France or Germany. In about a couple of
hours we came to a charming region where the Valonia oak,
now clothed with its young leaves, was dotted about as in
a park, and I beheld at last the beautiful Styrax in full
blossom. We crossed many tiny streams which unite to form the
Crocodile river and come from the other side of the same
hills which send down the waters of Megiddo.
No flower was perhaps quite so common along our path
as the pretty Linum pubescens which some travellers take
for a phlox, but all phloxes are, to the best of my belief,
plants of the New World, and they belong to a different
family, that of the Polemoniacea, the type of which is the
Greek Valerian of our gardens. I saw fully out for the
first time Acanthus Syriacus, a much more aggressive and
less graceful 'plant than the mollis of Italy, which I always
connect with my visit to Paestum in 185 1.

i888] MANASSEH 71
This is decidedly the most attractive piece of country
I have seen in the Holy Land, a great rehef, indeed, after
the ghasdy Judaea. Verily the lines of Manasseh fell in
pleasant places ! Yet how little do we hear about that
tribe, which must have been, at the time of the "Conquest,"
the most powerful section of the Beni Israel.
This ride brought home to me very forcibly the ease
with which Central Palestine could be reached by an
invading Egyptian army which did not care to avail itself
of the coast route, and the fact that we encountered a
caravan of camels returning to Damascus to take goods
thence to Jaffa, reminded me that we were following for
some hours an immemorial highway from Northern Syria
to the Nile.
At length, after about half a dozen hours of riding, we
found ourselves approaching from the south the peak of
Elijah's Sacrifice, and made our mid-day halt, close to the
mouth of the Wady el Milh, amongst some rocks pleasantly
shaded by trees.
Thence we descended into our familiar plain of Esdraelon,
which in the fortnight which has elapsed since we last
crossed it, has greatly changed its appearance, owing chiefly
to the enormous masses of Chrysanthemum segetum on
either side of the way. That and another species with a
more divided leaf were among the most conspicuous plants
of the whole of our ride from Burka to the Kishon, but as

72 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Marck
we approached the Pass, their gold was replaced by the
primrose of a crucifer, not beautiful in itself, but beautiful
as an element of the scenery.
The Pass itself was set with the tall blue spikes of the
exquisite Scilla hyacinthoides, and the still reaches of the
river were white with Ranunculus aquatilis.
Before five o'clock in the afternoon we were once more
in Haifa.
28. I found several letters awaiting me, and some more
arrived this morning.
Mr. Webster, of Edgehill, writes : —
" You glance in a sentence at Barbarossa's unknown grave
in the great Church of Tyre, reminding me of the same fate
that has befallen a countryman of our own — Claverhouse. All
that can now be learned of his resting-place is that he was
carried from the field of his victory at Killiecrankie to the, even
then, old church of Blair- Athole, and interred inside it ; but
where is completely unknown, the site having been forgotten by
the party whose hopes lie buried in his grave. I am anything
but an admirer of John Grahame, but I was interested in his
career and in his fate, and disappointed, when at Blair, to find
no trace of his closing scene and extinction."
Dyer tells me that a plant very abundant here up to the
beginning of this month, and which I could not determine,
is Bellevalia Romana, now classed with the hyacinths, and
adds that Baker pronounces the pale Iris which we collected
on 3rd February to be Xiphion Palcestinum. The Gagea
sent six weeks ago is, it seems, reticulata; and the first

i888] ROBERT ELSMERE 73
Orchis which came out, and which I transmitted to Kew,
was papilionacea.
30. Robert Elsmere, alluded to in these Notes for
October last, reached me as we started for our recent
journey. I began it by the waters of Megiddo, and have
just finished it.
The sixteen pages which Mrs. Ward read to me at York
House were a very fair sample of the best parts of this most
remarkable book.
The first week of March was roughish here, but De
Tabley writes from London on the 6th : —
" We are having a most cruel winter, which your wife has
done well to absent herself from. In Derbyshire scenes
of canine fidelity are enacted which would do credit to the
St. Bernard. In Cheshire the hedges have ceased to be visible,
being levelled up with snow-drift."
He sends, under date of i8th March, as dismal an
account of English weather as on the 6th, and adds : —
" Did you see last week that New York had to communicate
with Boston vi& London ? If any one had prophesied such an
event fifty years ago, we should have secluded him as a raving
lunatic.'' ..
In the same letter he tells me that the commonest of all
birds is — What ? Not the sparrow ! Not the rook ! Not
the starling ! But— the " Fulmar petrel ! "

74 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April

April
4. I left Haifa yesterday morning, and rode round the bay
till I approached the Belus, when, instead of crossing that
river at its mouth, I threaded my way amongst its mills and
marshes, coming out behind the eminence from which
Napoleon bombarded Acre.
Thence I traversed the plain which presented little of
interest. I saw again the french-grey Lupine of Caesarea, and
gathered a single specimen of a pretty yellow one; but
flowers were neither numerous nor interesting.
At length came the first outworks of the hills, and our
camp was pitched at a pleasant spot called El Kabry.
After a short halt there I mounted again, and soon struck
a small stream, which I followed up its course through a
valley which became ever narrower and narrower, ever
greener and greener.
At length the Oriental plane of Constantinople, now in
its tenderest leafage, began to take a very prominent place
in the vegetation, and the hillsides had quite a European
character. Presently I turned a corner, and, right at the end of the
valley I was threading, stood up the object of my search,

i888] STARKENBERG 75
which was the great Crusading ruin — the Starkenberg of the
Teutonic Knights.
It was Madame Renan who wrote to me about it, and
who, after strongly advising me to visit it, said : —
" C'est Ik que fut tenu un chapitre de I'ordre dans lequel on
decida que la conquete des Sarrasins de Palestine etant trop
difficile, on irait conquerir et convertir les Sarrasins (les paiens)
de la Prusse."
5. Leaving my wife, who had come to the conclusion
that another journey like her last would be too fatiguing, I
mounted my horse about half-past six o'clock, and, after
some two hours of very quiet riding, was on the further side
of the Kishon Ford.
There the Nazareth road turns off sharply to the right.
My party, however, bore away to the left, and by half-past
nine were ascending the Wady Malek, which makes a con
venient passage through the Zebulon hills.
Conder praises its scenery, and I daresay it was pretty
enough before such havoc was made amongst the Valonia
woods. Now it is not more than sub-pretty.
By mid-day we were encamped in an olive-grove 'just
below Sefuriyeh, which a tradition, of comparatively
modern origin, but not in itself improbable, makes the
birthplace of the Blessed Virgin.
There is no reason why we should wish it not to have
been so, for it stands in a commanding position, is not

76 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
uglier than most Palestinian villages, and enjoys a wide
prospect over hill and dale. From it we turned down into
the great level of the Buttauf, and moved on past various
places of little importance, though with one of them are
connected stories about the future appearance of the
Messiah. Now we are encamped on the opposite side of the plain
from Kana el-Jelil, but can see a fire burning there or close
to it. Near Kana el-Jelil, but not visible from any part of
our route, is Jefat, the Jotopata of Josephus. A village near
it, which we did see, is Supposed to occupy the site of Asochis,
which gave its name in old days to what we now call the
Buttauf Few plants of interest caught my eye to-day. On the
eastern side of Haifa a scarlet poppy had taken the place of
the blue anemones of six weeks ago ; further on I observed
a large and striking, but by no means beautiful, mauve
Allium. Within the folds of Wady Malek the Scilla
Hyacinthoides was abundant, and a tall Verbascum was
just opening its first flowers.
A whole hillside painted greyish blue with the foliage and
flowers of an Echium was a novel sight to me.
6. The camp broke up at half-past five, and our way lay
for about an hour along the edge of the rich basaltic plain
of the Buttauf.
Then we crossed a very low pass in the limestone hills

MANSURA

77

which bound its eastern end, and came down through
thickets, in which a honeysuckle was conspicuous, into a
lovely upland basin full of cereal crops about half grown.
As we rose out of this by a steep ascent to a village, the
name of which was given to me as Mansura, we caught a
ghmpse of the Lake of Gennesaret, which we continued to
see from time to time throughout the afternoon ; even more
constantly present to us was the traditional Mount of the
Beatitudes. Much the most agreeable portion of the whole of our
day's journey came when, on the northern side of the hill of
Mansura, we dipped down into a valley full of olives, and
found ourselves in a thicket composed chiefly of the Quercus
pseudococcifera in full blossom, delightfully contrasted with
the rose-coloured Cistus villosus in considerable, and the
white Cistus Salviafolius in immense, abundance. Just as
we were admiring these a large eagle, skimming quietly over
them and us, ahghted in an adjoining field.
We made our twelve o'clock halt in what had once been
a fine Valonia wood, in which the charcoal burners had
been doing their wicked will.
Not far off, between us and the Lake of Gennesaret, must
have been the site of Chorazin.
All around was growing a singularly pretty blue branched
Orobanch, the ramosa which I found a day or two ago on the
Plain of Haifa. That family was yesterday also much with

78 NOTES FROM A DIARY [Ap-il
us, but then it was represented by a white unbranched
species. The Linum pubescens, mentioned a few pages back, made
a lovely carpet to the thicket I have just described, and a
yellow Linum as well as a yellow rock-rose — as to the
species of both of which I am doubtful — were also important
features in the floral wealth of to-day.
I ought to state that I have at length come across a
specimen of the ill-used Quercus pseudococcifera allowed to
grow into a tree, I saw this just after crossing the
thicket of the eagle. Few would imagine, who know it
only as a mere shrub, that it becomes, if protected from
men, goats, and other destructive agencies, a true forest
giant. From the scene of our noon-day halt we descended into
a deep gorge, and rose from it by a very long and dreary
ascent, which was swept by a furious wind, to the town of
Safed. We were in our tents by three o'clock, and soon
afterwards the Doctor of a Mission to the Jews here called
and took me to see the view from the Castle. On our way
thither he pointed out the site of Jish, the ancient Giscala,
whence St. Paul's family perhaps, and the too notorious John
of Giscala certainly, came. He also showed me Meir6n
nestling at the back of Jebel Jermak — the mountain on
whose southern side we look on clear days from Haifa.
Shammai and Hillel are both, it is said, buried there, and

l888] GREAT STORM 79
the former, as being the least worthy of it, of course receives
the greatest share of honour.
I called on Mr. Friedmann, the missionary, an intelligent
Russian Jew, from the neighbourhood of Kieff, who has
become a naturalised British subject. I asked him when the
Jews settled in Safed ? " After their expulsion from Spain,"
was his reply. " They settled here at first by a kind of
accident, chiefly on account of the fineness of the cHmate,
the abundance of the water, and the cheapness of the
fruit." He told me also that the Jewish tradition is,
that in the fulness of time, Elijah will appear on the
top of Jebel Jermak, and that his appearance will be
immediately followed by that of the Messiah at the same spot.
He took me to see the Head of the Jewish Community
in Safed, a fine old patriarch who might have made his
fortune as a model. We could not stay long, as the sunset
of Friday evening was approaching, and the Sabbath was
about to begin. As we left the house a woman of the
family was engaged in blessing the lamps.
8. On the night of the 6th a thunderstorm of extreme
violence broke over Safed, and raged for many hours, accom
panied by wind of cyclonic force. A few minutes before
two in the morning the whole of our tents were blown down ;
but "on ne doit jamais ecrire que de ce qu'on aime," and
our adventures at Safed were not sufficiently agreeable to be
further recorded.

So NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
The enforced delay, however, which was caused by the
catastrophe, enabled me yesterday to go with Mr. Friedmann
and the Doctor to see the view from Jebel Canaan, which I
should probably not otherwise have seen.
It would be difficult to speak of it too highly. Under
ordinary circumstances, it extends along the Jordan Valley
from Hermon, if not to the Quarantania at least to very
near it ; but yesterday the weather being still disturbed,
Hermon was robed in thick clouds, and my sight ranged to
the southward only about I suppose as far as the mouth of
the pass which we ascended to Nablous.
I saw, however, perfectly, the whole of the Lake of
Gennesaret, the waters of Merom, the Castle of Safed, the
Mount of the Beatitudes, the range of Jebel Jermak, which
comes next to Hermon in height, the fine country through
which we travelled on the 6th, the hills of Nazareth, Httle
Hermon, Tabor, Carmel, and the mountains of Samaria.
It would not be easy to comprehend more places of first-
rate historical importance in one prospect. I need hardly
add that we saw for miles and miles over the country to the
east of the Lake of Gennesaret.
I bought at Safed a phylactery and the not less curious
Tephilim, which last are bound, during certain ceremonies,
round the left arm in a strange cat's-cradle fashion. I saw
also what looked, at first sight, nothing but an engraving
of Queen Esther in her royal robes. The figure, however,

i888] KADESH NAPTHALI 8r
was entirely formed by the whole book which bears her
name, in Hebrew characters. A not less remarkable
religious toy was a portrait of, I think, Shammai, mentioned
above, which contained, written after a similar fashion, but
in Chaldaic, the whole of one of his works.
We left Safed this morning, and reached Banias after a
forced march of twelve hours, which took us for many
miles along the heights bordering the Jordan Valley upon
the west. The path runs at first over high downs partially
cultivated, and, where in a state of nature, bearing little
except Poterium Spinosum. I observed amongst it another
fine Astragalus, not unlike the one mentioned above, but
with less luxuriant foliage, and white, not yellow, flowers.
Dotted along the road were villages of Algerian colonists,
Circassian colonists, Metawileh and Druses.
It seems to be thought that the site of Hazor, which
figures in the Books of Joshua and Judges, was near the
fine gorge of the Wady Hendaj.
At length we arrived at a pretty upland plain over which
once rose Kadesh Napthali, probably a holy place long
before Hebrew days, recalling both the great city of the
Hittites on the Orontes and Kadytis, the name by which
Jerusalem was known to Herodotus. Hermon, on the
opposite or eastern side of the valley, is, as seen from
Kadesh, a superb object. It is a pity we know so Httle of
the history of so grandly situated a place.
VOL. 11. F

82 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
After Kadesh we passed through some extremely pretty
thickets, where the cyclamen, long since over at Haifa, was
flowering abundantly, and came down on the large ugly
middle age fortress of Hunin, whence a long steep descent
brought us to tbe Jordan VaUey. At length we crossed
by a stone bridge, guiltless of parapets, the rapid turbid
stream of the Hasbany, which some consider to be the true
Jordan. It takes less than an hour to pass the plain from this
bridge to Tell el Kadi, the ancient Dan, where from under
a thick tangle of wild fig trees gushes another claimant for
the honour of being the source of the Jordan.
A gradual slope of between four and five hundred feet
carries one from this point through pleasant woods, where
the Valonia oak and the Styrax vie in importance with the
Pistacia Palestina, the Terebinth of travellers, far the finest
specimen of which I have seen is at Tell el Kadi.
Near that place I saw one of the Ansariyeh, the only
specimen of the race whom I have come across. He was
a shepherd, and alas ! by no means recalled the charming
Queen, who figures in the pleasant nonsense of Tancred.
These strange people have two villages in this immediate
neighbourhood. 9. We slept at Banias and cHmbed this morning to yet
a third source of the Jordan, and one which was conse
crated by Greek religion to the god Pan, whose name

i888] BANIAS 83
survives amongst the people in Banias, whilst Caesarea
Philippi is clean forgotten except in books.
When we had seen this very important and historic
spring, we rose, I suppose a thousand feet, to the
grand castle of es Subebeh, which dominates all this
region. One must really come to Syria td see how fine
a mediaeval stronghold could be. From it there is a
very noble view, much and justly praised in the guide
books, but, after all, not to be compared with that from
Jebel Canaan.
The new object I saw from this place which interested
me most, was another great Crusading fortress — Belfort,
which, planted upon the Lebanon side of the valley, looks
across to es Subebeh, planted on an eminence forming
part of the outworks of Hermon, and thus belonging to the
Anti-Libanus system.
I should not take leave of the Castle of es Subebeh
without saying that I had on the way to it a good view
of the miserable Httle crater-pond which has been called
Lake Phiala.
Very inuch more important than it is Lake Huleh, the
waters of Merom ; but it also, anyhow at a distance, is a
disappointing object; when I first saw it from Jebel
Canaan, Faber's line about —
" Bleak Carnarvon's small un-wooded lakes,"
came into my mind; but yesterday I saw the huge

84 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
marshes to the north of it, which give it a very different
character. A long and weary ascent took us from the Castle of es
Subebeh into the Damascus track, which passes behind
Hermon, for the most part over a grim wilderness of
basalt, contrasting strangely with the limestone hideous-
ness of Hermon. I beg his pardon, but he does not gain
by a closer acquaintance, at least as seen from behind.
Yesterday, at a distance, from Kadesh Napthali, he was
glorious, as I have admitted ; to-day, seen from the south
east, he was really too frightful. The whole of the pass
through which we toiled this forenoon reminded me of
nothing but the very ugliest parts of the high Alps. At
length we came down upon relatively level ground, and
crossing a bright river Hke a Scotch trout stream, saluted
it as one of the principal sources of the Pharpar of old
renown. It was just on the Damascus side of it that, after a day
very barren as far as flowers were concerned, I gathered for
the first time the beautiful Amaryllidaceous plant for which
I have been on the look-out, Ixiolirion montanum.
I ought not to forget that the ugly pass I have been
speaking of was redeemed from utter desolation in places
by the presence of the English daisy, which I had not yet
seen in Syria. Strangely enough, too, only here have I
seen the tulip, since I saw it exactly a month ago on our

i888] ST. PAUL'S CONVERSION 85
road to Tantftra. It was starved and unhappy, but there
was the plant.
10. Hermon, as seen this morning from Kefr Hawar in
the light of the early dawn, had recovered to some extent
his powers of illusion, and looked imposing enough. From
that place a long succession of wholly uninteresting ups and
downs led us to another branch of the Pharpar at the con
siderable village of Katana.
At Katana commences a really very decent carriage road,
and I had expected the desert to commence too ; but, at
least at this season, the oasis character of Damascus is some
what obscured by the operations of the agriculturist, who,
trusting to the spring rains, sows down a very considerable
amount of the desert with corn, and gets apparently quite
respectable crops off it.
Considerable spaces, however, are still left untouched
by the hand of man, and enable one to see what the effect
must have been when Kinglake passed this way in summer.
As it was, even to-day there was a most painful glare, and
as we moved slowly towards the wooded province which
conceals Damascus, I had ample leisure to recall the story
of St. Paul's conversion.
The chances are, I think, that it must have taken place
somewhat to the right of the road which I foUowed, as he
would naturally, coming from Jerusalem, have taken the
shortest route across the Jaulan. Various places distant

86 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
from each other have been pointed out as the place with no
less confidence than if we had as minute contemporary
accounts of the locality as we have, for example, with
reference to the scene of the conversion of Alphonse
Ratisbonne, which forms the most exact parallel to that
of St. Paul with which I am acquainted. I do not think
that it is necessary to imagine a thunderstorm or anything
of the sort to have accompanied it. The tremendous
mid-day sun of this part of the world, acting on a brain
to the last degree excited, would, I think, sufficiently
account for the vision which has been so fertile alike of
good and evil.
We had been more than six hours in the saddle before
we passed the gorge where the Barada, the ancient
Abana, comes out of the hills to do its blessed work of
fertiHsation. No sooner does it appear than the so-called
gardens of Damascus begin, filled where we entered them
more especially with walnuts. Amidst their pleasant mazes
we, wandered, for some little time, before we came out
upon the broad open space (down which the main stream
of the river is conducted in a long masonry conduit), and
reached at length the Hotel Dimitri.
Both yesterday and to-day I had many instructive views
of the Jaulan, the ancient Bashan, seeing from behind
the volcanic range which I mentioned in writing of
Tiberias, having a good though very distant view of

i888] DAMASCUS 87
the ancient Trachonitis, islanded amidst the great level,
and of the Black Mountain which separates the plain of
Damascus from the Hauran.
12. WeU ! I have now seen pretty fairly this famous city,
and, without entering into details, may put down a few
impressions. In the first place then, all that the Barada does is well
done. The proceedings remind me curiously of those of
the Tambrapoorney. I do not know, by the way, whether
the Barada ever flows through the Serai as the most hard
working and meritorious of South Indian rivers, when in
a playful mood, occasionally does through the drawing-
room of the Collector of Tinnevelly.
In the next place, the gardens of Damascus are not
gardens in our sense of the word ; they are rather orchards,
meadows, fields, and neglected shrubberies. It was in this
last capacity that they suggested one of the most delightful
pages in Eothen. The great Mosque is only impressive
from its size. Those who wish to receive the most favour
able impression of what Islam can do, need see, so far as I
am aware, three of its shrines only : the Jumma Musjid at
Delhi, the Dome of the Rock of Jerusalem, and the Pearl
Mosque at Agra, of which it is enough to say that it is
worthy to be the neighbour of the Taj. I do not mention
St. Sophia or El Aksa, for they are merely, like the Mosque
here, accidentally Muhammadan. Islam has no better

88 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
right to take credit for them than we have for the
Cathedral of Cordova.
No one should omit to ascend the Minaret. The view
from it gives an excellent idea of the city and of its sur
roundings ; but it revealed to me the horrible fact that they
are roofing-in a large portion of the street called " Straight,"
with corrugated zinc or some such material. The effect is
truly hideous.
The bazaars deserve all that has been said about their
picturesqueness. Every few yards of many of them would
make a separate and an admirable subject for a painter.
On the other hand, I was much disappointed with their
contents, and am driven to the conclusion that agents of the
great bric-a-brac dealers in the cities of the West must
periodically sweep away everything which is at all good. I
saw very little claiming to be old which I should much care
to have taken as a gift. The modern silks seem to me
tolerably good, and not dear.
I went to the English cemetery to see the grave of
Buckle, and to lay a rose upon it for the sake of his kind
friend, Lady Reay, at whose house I met him, now more than
a quarter of a century ago. That was the time when, suddenly
emerging from his seclusion, he burst upon the London
world. Few people knew him by sight, and I remember asking
Owen what he looked Hke. I was startled when the great
zoologist replied, " Like a young Gibbon," for I thought,

i888] BUCKLE 89
not unnaturally, considering the lips from which the remark
fell, that the speaker was aUuding to the Quadrumanous
animal, but he explained that he meant the historian ! Poor
Buckle ! I never cared very much for his writings, and
thought him over-rated; but he might have accomplished
much more considerable things had he not died at forty.
The English cemetery here is a wretched ill-cared-for
place, overgrown with weeds. It is situated not far from
the spot where recently, in defiance of an plder tradition,
they have located the scene of St. Paul's conversion. How
much pleasanter it would be to lie near the scene where
the Great Apostle ended, than near where he began, his
Christian career, for in all human probability one of the
last objects upon which his eyes ever rested must have been
the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, close to which is that lovely
Protestant cemetery which would, I fancy, be to many
persons dying in Rome, a stronger argument in favour of
remaining Protestant than could be produced by many
ChilHngworths !
It was, by-the-by, to Lady Reay that Buckle addressed,
on ist May i860, a remarkable letter, of which I have a
copy, in which he mentioned what he considered were the
most important and original writers. He made it very brief
by striking out the great Physical and Mathematical works,
because, as he observed, the truths in them are so
cumulative that the latest work is usuaUy the best.

go NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
They were the following : —
Homer, Plato, Aristode, Dante, Bacon, Shakespeare,
Descartes, Hobbes, Grotius, Locke, Berkeley, Kant, Brown
on Cause and Effect, Comte's Philosophie Positive, Mill's
Logic, Smith's Wealth of Nations, Malthus on Population,
Ricardo's Political Economy.
" And for the study of Human Nature," he added, " the
greatest modern works of fiction are : Don Quixote, The
Pilgrim's Progress, Goethe's Faust."
The weather was not very propitious to us when we
climbed behind Salahiyeh to look across the plain, for a
heavy haze overspread it, and this although the west wind
which has teased us so much for the last week was blowing
violently. I looked with most interest to the east in the
direction of Palmyra, but saw nothing save a low line of
hills far away, and already in the Great Desert which
stretches towards Bagdad, whither, strange to say, an elderly
French lady has just proceeded in a carriage, with artisans
to repair the same when necessary, a large escort and all
other requisites ; doomed, I should think, to a month of as
dull travelling as could easily be encountered.
The much be-praised " Interiors " seemed to me of very
small account. As an Austrian, who visited some of them
with me, remarked : " Everything connected with Damascus
has been described in too optimistic a way.'.' If my
guide spoke truly, I saw everything much worth seeing

i888] ANTI-LIBANUS 91
in this kind, save one very large and fine room which
chanced not to be shown. I saw three Jewish, one
Christian, and a Turkish house. A single Httle bit of
wall in the latter, in which the Alhambra style had
been fairly, not admirably, reproduced, was the only
thing that gave me any pleasure.
An agreeable little incident occurred at Salahiyeh. I
was enquiring for the house which had been occupied
by the authoress of The Inner Life of Syria, when an
Arab gentleman came forward, saying that he was the
present owner, and invited us into it. It had evidently
been much re-built, and, as I gather, improved of late
years. The courtyard was better kept than any other we
have seen here, and with its fountain, its tall cypresses,
and its roses, including the only damask ones I saw at
Damascus, was really a delicious place. The proprietor
said he wished for nothing except to be young again.
I had proposed to have taken Baalbec on my way home,
and had devoted to this extension of my journey the 13th,
14th, and I Sth, but the gods willed it otherwise.
All the 13th I was storm-stayed at Damascus. I spent
the first half of the 14th fighting against a perfectly
demoniac wind, and the second half of it fighting against
the same wind, reinforced by rain and hail, while all the
15th I passed in bed in a lonely Khan, some 4,000 feet
above the sea, on Anti-Libanus.

92 NOTES FROM A DIARY [April
From the wreckage of these three days I secured
nothing except a curious conversation in Damascus with
a young Georgian scholar, and the ride up the Barada
from Bessima to Ain Fijeh, a place much, and on the
whole justly, praised by Miss Martineau in her account of
Palestine, which I read a week or two since, and which,
though far inferior to the part of her Eastern Life which
deals with Egypt, is stiU worth reading.
On the 1 6th the snow which had covered the whole
country had melted, except in patches, which much
astonished my dear old horse — Greyliard, as I call him,
after the steed bestrode by Edward I. in these latitudes.
Accustomed at Haifa to a genial temperature, he had
never made acquaintance with this disgusting portion
of the economy of Nature, and knew not what to make
of it.
It was bitterly cold when we started, but at length we
got below the clouds, and plunging into the Wady-et-Teim
— in other words, the Valley of the Upper Jordan or
HasbS,ny — crossed that stream and slept at HasbeyS,.
Thence on the very early morning of the 17 th we
climbed to the Khalwet-el-BiyM, the great sanctuary of
the Druses, which rises over the town. It is much larger
than the chapel at Dalieh, but even less interesting, for I
saw no inscriptions.
We then re-crossed the Hasbiny, and, traversing a very

i888] JEDIDEH 93
lofty water-parting, came down near the village of Jisr
Burghuz on the tremendous defile of the Litany. Doubt
less that river has exceUent reasons of its own for its
extraordinary proceedings, but it seems to have gone out
of its way to encounter the most marvellous difficulties in
finding its way to the sea.
From this point we made our way to Jedideh, a con
siderable town, commanding the most magnificent views of
Hermon, now in all the splendour of a full robe of snow,
re-assumed since I last wrote about him, commanding,
too, a superb prospect over the formidable Plain of Ijon
(see a passage quoted above), and down to the Huleh lake.
Soon after passing Jedideh we wheeled to the west and
advanced over a very high country, with the castle of
Belfort (Kalat-esh-Shekif) frowning at us across another
tremendous abyss, at the bottom of which flows the
Litany. Then came more climbs and breakneck descents,
which placed us ere nightfall in camp, close to the Metawileh
village of Tayyibeh. This was one of the finest rides I
have ever made, and should be better known than
it is to travellers.
On the 1 8th we pushed for the sea, having a distant view
of Tibnin, another Crusading stronghold to the south of us.
Much of the day was spent in crossing a rather common
place agricultural country, but a good deal also in winding
through very pretty ravines. On the i6th and 17th we had

94 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
not seen any great multitude of flowers, but to-day we were
in more genial climes, and a beautiful Phlomis — not the same
as my SiciHan friend mentioned under January of last year
— was perhaps the new plant which gave me most pleasure.
We drank our mid-day coffee close to the ruin known
as Hiram's Tomb, and then faUing into our route of
November last, a little south of Tyre, encamped by the
edge of the sea near Nakura, while the little owls discussed
our doings, mewing at each other in their plaintive way and in
Amoeboean fashion. On the 19th we crossed the southern
portion of the Ladder of Tyre and came over the plain of
Acre, where I found Campanula sulphurea, a plant for which
I had been looking, and saw Lavandula Stcechas growing with
Passerina hirsuta, just as it would have done in Provence.
After all his journeyings and exposure, Greyliard covered
the distance along the sands from Acre to Haifa in just
eighty minutes. May
10. The days which followed my return to Haifa were
given, for the most part, to the numerous small occupa
tions which precede a move, and not least to the bringing
up arrears of correspondence.
On the late afternoon of the 25 th April we embarked on
the Clio, and little Haifa, with all its associations, belonged
to the past.

i888] PORT SAID 95
Soon after leaving our anchorage at Jaffa I was talking
to a German lady about the tragical situation created for
her country by the illness of the Emperor, from whom it
had once so much to hope. "Wenn Deutschland," she
said, " einen Genius gehabt hat, so war immer ein Teufel
dabei ! "
We stayed at Port Said with Mr. and Mrs. Royle, always
the kindest of hosts. She told me that her father had been
the only married Undergraduate of his time at Oxford. An
eccentricity which results in having the Venus of Milo for
one's daughter may well be pardoned !
It was at Port Said that I received the sad news of the
death of Mat. Arnold, the last friend save one to whom I
had written from Syria. I leave to more competent critics
to decide what his permanent place amongst English poets
is likely to be, and merely record the fact that, to me
personally, his poems say more than do those of any other
poet who has lived in our time.
On the morning of the 28th we embarked on the Iberia,
a steamer of the Orient Line, fiUed mainly with Australians.
We had a gale off the south-west of Crete, but ere we
approached Cape Spartivento the weather had become fine.
The SicUian coast was draped in a light haze, through
which the great volcano was visible, smoking gently. I
was grateful to my wife for reminding me, while in sight
of it, of Campbell's verse which was running persistently

- 96 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
in my head when I last passed through these waters with
her : —
" 'Twas now the dead watch of the night ; the helm was
lashed a-lee.
And the ship rode, where Mount Etna lights the deep
Levantine sea,"
As we entered the straits I read Alexandrine's wonderful
page upon Italy, and, as we left them, my wife read to me
in Butcher and Lang's translation of the Odyssey, the
passage relating to Scylla and Charybdis, By the way,
I never saw the latter sustain its character so well. It
was really quite a rough piece of water, and the Captain
told me that it had a perceptible influence upon the
steering of his vessel.
Naples, where we lay for an hour or two, was dull and
misty ; but I saw Procida and Ischia nearer and better than
on any previous occasion. Sardinia, whose southern
coast I descried far off" on the morning of the 3rd, had
never before met my eyes.
My second passage through the Straits of Gibraltar,
on the 5th May, was not less charming and far more
instructive than my first, for that took place in the late
evening and the night (see these Notes for October 1881),
while on this occasion we lay long enough in broad daylight
under the Rock to enable me to make out its topography
by the help of the map in Murray's Mediterranean.

i888J STADE 97
San Roque, Algegiras, Ceuta and Apes Hill, places whose
names were familiar, but which I had never beheld, all
passed for me out of the region of the unknown.
My most considerable piece of reading during the
voyage was the first volume of Stade's Geschichte des Volkes
Israel, through the seven hundred pages of which I ran,
not reading it in its entirety, but noting carefully what
had most interest for me. It is by far the most important
book upon the Old Testament which I have met with. I
do not except Renan's Histoire du peuple ^Israel, because
the only volume of that which is yet published does not carry
one further than David; while Stade goes down to the
taking of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar. Some of his
views are very startHng ; e.g., he does not think that the
Israelites ever were in Egypt at all ! But as a whole it is
a masterly production, although one sadly misses the
" particule peutetre " of which Renan makes, in treating of
far-off" and ill-recorded times, such frequent use.
On the 4th my wife read aloud from the Canzoniere of
Dante, and the evening of the same day was made memor
able to me by seeing Mars rise slowly out of the sea behind
us, while Jupiter and Saturn were both high in heaven.
I had a good view of the Spanish Finisterre, but long ere
we had reached the other side of the Bay a thick fog had
fallen, and the next object which I beheld was the Eddy-
stone lighthouse. We passed quite close to it on our way
VOL. II. G

98 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
to Plymouth Sound, on the banks of which the trees were
in their first green.
The run up channel, on a very bright day and against a
breeze just strong enough to fill the sails of the numerous
craft we met, was very exhilarating, and before I went to
bed last night we saw the lights of Brighton. This after
noon we reached York House, where the horse chestnuts
are three-fourths and the elms about half out, but the buds
of the lilac not yet open.
II. I went up to London to-day on business, and going
into Brooks's for a moment met Lord Herschell, who is
President of the Gold and Silver Commission. As we
walked down St. James's Street he mentioned that Mr.
Dana Horton, seeing in the Salon the other day a picture
of Danae receiving the golden shower, said to some one
who was with him, " I suppose that is a portrait of a
Monometallist ! "
Miss Soiners Cocks writes, with reference to "some of
the conceptions of the 'New Life'" set forth in Luca
Signorelli's frescoes at Orvieto : —
" They supply something which is lacking in Fra Angelico's
representations — the unutterable humihty and awe of those who
are about to enter into it, and the human sympathy, almost
amounting to pain, of the welcoming angels. The picture goes
home to one so much more than a conception of immediate
rapture and bliss."
MademoiseUe de Perpigna, writing about the Emperor

SIR FREDERICK RICHARDS 99
of Germany from Charlottenburg in a letter which has
been waiting for me here, says : —
" The consciousness of duty fulfilled, the brave determination
to do it in the most trying circumstances, uphold him. The
sudden bad news and hurried departure, the meeting Bismarck
and the Ministers at Leipzig, the Oath of Allegiance received on
the road — all that was but the beginning of a series of emotions
hard to bear with illness."
Lady Reay writing to my wife says : —
" I am much touched by a description given me by Sir F.
Richards of you. It was most poetical and graphic. He said
he was invited at Madras to go to a prize-giving to girls. He
went in the usual state of calm sense of duty which one knows
so well ! But a change came over his indifference when he per
ceived, first, masses of picturesque Hindu little girls in brilliant
colours and jewels, and at the head of the hall there stood one
tall, slight, graceful lady, draped in pure white. She was the
presiding genius of the scene. Governor, high officials, native
princes were grouped around ; but the white lady stood alone,
and infused life into the whole audience by a thrilling speech,
full of charm, full of wise thoughts, full of initiative grace and
eloquence. All were entranced and lifted up to a higher level
than that in which their casual thoughts were playing on entering
the warm room, into which the only pure breeze that came was
from the graceful lady in white. I had felt the whole series of
sensations so vividly myself at Madras that I was much pleased
at their echo in the Admiral's experience. Pray show this
to Sir Mountstuart."
12. Victoria's birthday, and a May morning of the poets.
I went over in the afternoon to Kew to see Dyer. He

100 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
carried me off to see the small new house which he has
just established for Alpine plants, called my attention to
some noble garden varieties of the daffodil, and took me
to pay a visit to the grand Rhododendron Aucklandii, now
in all its glory.
13. Mrs. Greg writes : —
"Your life for the past few months has been a sort of Idyll, a
picture to be framed and looked back upon — so full of life, yet so
full of repose. I often picture to myself you and the children
wandering about in search of shells and flowers, and compare it
in my mind with the State pageants and the gorgeous sur
roundings of your daily life in Madras."
G. de Bunsen writes : —
" The Empress, as you have rightly judged, is making her
way among the people. However brief her tenure of power
will be (and who knows but that it may be prolonged) the more
will the public at large perceive the truly astounding richness
and resource, the practised leadership, and the affectionate dis
position of that rare creature. She is indefatigable, and gives a
fresh indication of the grand aims she has in view each day."
16. Finished Les Penstes dune Reine by the Queen of
Roumania. I have marked a great many passages, of which
I quote only one or two : —
" La ' simple \€x\X.€ ' est plus complexe qu'une femme."
" L'amour est comme I'dcureuil hardi et timide k la fois."
" L'artiste est amoureux d'une toile vierge, d'une feuille
vide, d'un morceau de marbre brut, Vhs que Sa main les a

18S8] THE QUEEN OF ROUMANIA lol
rendu immortels il les prend en horreur et malheur k lui
s 'il en restait amoureux ! "
"Pourquoi ddcrire le laid quand le beau n'est pas encore
epuis^." " La betise se met au premier rang pour etre vue ; I'intelli-
gence se met en arriere pour voir.''
"Autrefois on faisait la cour aux souverains pour obtenir
un bienfait. Aujourd'hui ce sont les souverains qui font la
cour pour faire accepter un bienfait.
" Beaucoup de gens ne critiquent que pour ne pas paraitre
ignorants. Ils ignorent que I'indulgence est la marque de
la plus haute culture."
" II y a des femmes majestueusement pures comme le
cygne." " Froissez-Ies : vous verrez leurs plumes se h^risser pendant
une seconde : puis elles se detourneront silencieusement pour se
refugier au milieu des flots.''
[Compare Lander's description of the Swan —
" A creature born
To be the only graceful shape of scorn."]
1 8. The lilac came into flower yesterday at York House.
I believe that its flowering depends upon the will of St.
Busbequius (see Vol. II. of these Notes); but in looking
at a review of mine some thirty years old, I find the follow
ing, quoted from one of Sir J. Herschel's essays : —
"The common lilac blossoms so soon as the square of
the m,ean daily temperatures (as indicated by the centigrade
thermometer) amounts to 4264°, so that the mean time of
its flowering at any given station may be at once determined
from the meteorological record of its climate. At Brussels
this mean date is the 27th or 28th of April. In other localities

102 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
it occurs earlier or later by about three or four days for every
degree of latitude south or north of Brussels, and about five or
even six days later for every loo yards elevation above the level
of that city, which is itself sixty-five yards above the sea."
Lubbock came down to see us. In a note received from
him when I arrived, he mentioned that at a Bimetallic
dinner recently, some one had said : — " If speech is
silver and silence gold, then a short speech is surely
BimetaUic." 2 2. We have had an ideal Whitsuntide, the sky blue, the
horse chestnuts just coming into flower at York House.
On the afternoon of the 19th, Oliphant, Mrs. Greg,
Mrs. Barrington, Bernard Mallet and Lady Colley came
over, and they have only left us to-day. Oliphant naturally
talked much to my wife and others about his new book.
Scientific Religion, which is coming out to-morrow ; and of
which he had an early copy with him.
On Sunday, Kinglake and Byrne came to lunch. The
latter told us of a canary at Norbiton which he himself
heard say the other day, in a far-off but quite distinct voice :
" He is such a beauty, pretty little creature."
I walked with Kinglake through the Ham meadows, along
the edge of which a large field oi Narcissus poeticus was a
new feature to me. He mentioned just before we started
that " the great Elchi," near the end of his long and fateful
career, found himself in Rome so thoroughly d'esoeuvrt that

1 888] KINGLAKE

103

he said to our then representative, " I wish you would give
me something to copy."
They used to teU a story at Madras of a man who had
cHmbed up the whole of the ladder untU he retired as
Surgeon-General, and soon felt so bored that he positively
applied for permission to begin his medical career again' as
an Assistant-Surgeon.
Petersham Park was lovely. It made me think of the
lines in Maud: —
" O, art thou sighing for Lebanon
In the long breeze that streams to thy delicious East,
Sighing for Lebanon,
Dark cedar, though thy limbs have here increased
Upon a pastoral slope as fair.
And looking to the South, and fed
With honeyed rain and delicate air."
At the gate of Pembroke Lodge we parted, Kinglake
going towards Richmond, I to see Lady Russell. The
wild hyacinths, always beautiful in her grounds, are more
enchanting than ever this year.
As I walked yesterday morning in the Urwald'^ with Mrs.
Barrington, her attention was attracted by the columbine,
which was in bud, and she told me that it was the character
istic flower of the early summer in Venice, where window-
gardening naturally assumes great importance. She reminded
^ See these Notes for 22nd June 1879.

104 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
me, too, that it occurs in Titian's great picture of " Bacchus
and Ariadne."
Mrs. Greg brought me a beautiful photograph of the San
Sisto, which we saw together last October.
After dinner yesterday Oliphant talked of Mr. Travers, an
American sayer of good things.
" Travers," remarked a friend to him one day in New
York, "you seem to stammer much worse here than you
did when I saw you at Baltimore."
" I — t's a — much bigger place ! " was the reply.
24. Read at the Athenaeum a notice in the Saturday
Review of Henry Oxenham, of whose death I heard just
before leaving Haifa. We were rather intimate at Oxford,
more especially towards the end of 1850, when we went into
the Schools together, and I continued to see him frequently
during the next year or two. There is a memorial of those
times which is interesting to me in the last chapter of his
book on the Catholic Doctrine of the Atonement, published
in 1865.
On page 197, he writes : —
" He was not wrong who taught that the love of Beauty is
indeed no other than the love of Eternal Truth. And only
in the brightness of the uncreated vision can that love find
its adequate satisfaction."
" Wir miissen nach der Heimath gehen,
Um diese heilige Zeit zu sehen."
These words from NovaHs were the motto, and the idea

HENRY OXENHAM lo^
contained in the sentence which immediately precedes them
was the subject of some verses which he began while stay
ing with me in London, in the autumn of 1851, and after
wards wrote out at the beginning of my Lyra Apostolica.
They end with the lines —
"The Soul cannot rest till it gains that shore.
Where, blent in one heavenly vision,
The dreams of Affection and Knowledge and Power
Are lost in their endless fruition."
At that period it seemed certain to his friends that he
would cross almost immediately the hardly visible line
which separated the ground upon which he then stood
from the " AUeinseligmachende Kirche," and devote to
her service his very considerable dialectic and rhetorical
powers. He lingered, however, long before doing so, and
ultimately connected himself with DoUinger and the theo
logians who form the extreme left of his new communion.
This was fatal to his career, which I, who knew him only
on his poetical and emotional side, expected to have been
a Roman parallel to that of his early friend. Canon Liddon.
The writer in the Saturday mentions that he had the
Dream of Gerontius read to him as the end drew near.
I attended this afternoon the centenary of the Linnean
Society, saw their Medals conferred upon Hooker and
Owen, and seconded, at the request of the President
(Mr. Carruthers, head of the Botanical Department in the

io6 NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
British Museum), a vote of thanks, moved by Mr. St.
George Mivart, to the authors of the four Sloges which
were read on Linnaeus, Robert Brown, Darwin, and
Bentham. The author of the first. Professor Fries (see these Notes
for 1873), was not present, but the others were read as
well as composed by Hooker, Professor Flower, and Dyer,
respectively. Byrne writes under to-day's date : —
" Do you recollect the hunt I had for the correct version of
Oxenstjema's saying about 'the little wisdom with which the
world is governed'? Six various readings I had before me,
each one endorsed by an extremely respectable authority, and
your Gejliigelte Worter told me the original authority for it
was Lundblad's Svensk Plutarch; so I searched, first at the
Bodleian. No! No Lundblad there. Then at the British
Museum : some portions of the work, but not the one I
wanted. Then, through a Swedish friend, in the Library at
Upsala : no Lundblad at all. At last he ran it to earth in the
Royal Library at Stockholm, and the correct version turns out
to be different from every one of the six above referred to, and to
run as follows : —
"'An nescis, mi fill, guantilld prudentia regitur orbis.'
"¦{Svensk Plutarch II, Stockholm, 1826, page 95)."
27. A fine day and a large party at York House. Mr.
and Mrs. Humphry Ward came yesterday, as did Miss
Kathleen Gordon. To-day Dr. Maclean (see the Indian
volumes of these Notes) with his wife and daughter joined

i888] KEW 107
us. I had, of course, much conversation with Mrs. Ward
about; Robert Elsmere, which has had even a greater success
than I augured for it — thanks partly, no doubt, to Gladstone's
attack in the Nineteenth Century. It is not three months
since the first edition reached me at Haufa, and already it
is in a sixth.
We went to Kew in the afternoon, giving most time to
the wUd hyacinths and the rhododendron walk. Mr.
Humphry Ward mentioned to me at Kew that on Dyer's
wedding-day he received a post-card from a friend with
the question and answer —
" What is closer than a hook and eye ? "
" A hooker and eyer ! "
29. To Kew in the afternoon. The noble Strelitzia
RegincB, quaintly enough selected to commemorate the
Consort of George IIL, is in flower in the Temperate
house ; but the forest scenery of the Gardens on the side
next the Thames, now still in its first green, is their
greatest charm for the moment.
30. Dyer told me the other day that there were 80,000
people at Kew on Whit Monday. I see I have noted in
my Diary of 1868, under date of Whit Tuesday, as a
remarkable thing, that there were 30,777 people there the
day before !
Who invented for the " haute ville " at Geneva the cruel
name of Faubourg St. Cretin, which I find in a note made
twenty years ago ?

io§ NOTES FROM A DIARY [May
Did the last Lord Houghton really say to  , " If you
don't take care you wiU become the most odious member
of an odious family ? "
Dined with Mr. and Mrs. Robert Arbuthnot. Coleridge
told us that Gibson had once gone down from London to
Yorkshire. Arrived at some station he asked if a well-
known country house " was in that neighbourhood."
" No ! " said the porter whom he addressed, " it is five-
and-twenty mUes off"!"
" How can I get there ? " was the rejoinder.
" You had better get out here and go back by the next
train. Have you any luggage ? "
" I don't know," answered Gibson.
" Don't know ! — Are you a fool, sir ? "
" No ! I am a sculptor ! "
Mrs. Alfred Morrison told a story, which I had not
heard, of the late Master of Trinity. She declared that
the authorities of Newnham had asked permission for the
young ladies to play lawn-tennis in the CoUege gardens.
The Master wrote back to say that he was heart-broken
at being obliged to refuse the first application they had
ever made to him, but that he had no choice — the gardens
of Trinity being devoted to Horticulture, and not to
Husbandry. Read to-day at the Athenaeum a characteristic review
of Robert Elsmere by Pater, which appeared, of all

i888] DUKE OF LANCASTER log
places, in the Guardian. In it occurred the picturesque
phrase — "The wonderful inaccessible cold heights of the
Imitation."

June
2. Dined at the India Office. Lord Cross mentioned
that when he was first Home Secretary he gave at the
Birthday dinner the toast of "The Queen — Duke of
Lancaster." Most of the Judges present were astonished,
not to say scandalised, by this, saying that the title of
Duke of Lancaster merged in the Crown. That, how
ever, as it appears, is not the case, and the Queen would
remain Duke of Lancaster, even if she ceased to be
Queen. I talked with Sir John Straehey, who sat on one side
of me, about Bright, and his speeches against the Great
Company. "He made many mistakes," said my neighbour; "but
he had got hold of the two cardinal truths about our
position in the East — that there is no such country as
India, and that the Indians, as a people, do not exist."
5. A particularly gay and agreeable breakfast at the
Arthur Russell's, only the family and the Mallets being
present. Our host recalled Henry Smith's remark — " The upshot

IIO NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
of the controversy about Homer seems to me to be that
the Homeric Poems were not written by Homer, but by
another person of the same name."
He reminded me also of a letter he lately sent me, in
which, with reference to the obscurity of German philo
sophical language, he wrote : —
" Was ist Bildung ? Unterscheidung von subjectivem
und objectivem. BUdung iiberhaupt ist Vermittlung
(Strauss). Quatre mots admirables ! exclaims Scherer ' et
qui n'ont qu'un defaut, c'est d'etre intraduisibles.'"
6. Dined with Lubbock, meeting a large party of men,
amongst whom I talked chiefly to Sir James Paget and
Archdeacon Farrar. Conversation strayed to General
Gordon's extraordinary craze about the identity of the
Seychelles and the Garden of Eden. Sir James Paget
suggested a curious anatomical reason for the importance
which attached in Gordon's fancy to the Coco de Mer, and
added — " How strange these men are whose minds are
not fused into one whole, but made up of separate
pieces ! "
We passed on through, I think, Gladstone's Homeric
vagaries, to speak of Henry Smith's mot cited above ; and
Farrar mentioned that S. T. Coleridge had called the
destructive criticism with regard to the poet, which was
much in vogue in his day, "that Wolfish and Hey nous
theory." This led to the book by Henry Nelson Coleridge

1888] LATIN AND GREEK HI
upon Homer, which has so dropped out of sight, that I
doubt whether many of the younger generation know the
wonderfully fine passage upon Latin and Greek which
Farrar, I found, admired as much as I have done for the
last forty years. Lord Derby, who was sitting opposite,
and who knows most things, did not know it.
Here it is : —
" Greek — the shrine of the genius of the old world ; as
universal as our race, as individual as ourselves ; of infinite
flexibility,^ of indefatigable strength, with tha complication
and the distinctness of nature herself, to which nothing was
vulgar, from which nothing was excluded, speaking to the ear
like Italian, speaking to the mind like English ; with words
like pictures, with words like the gossamer film of the summer ;
at once the variety and picturesqueness of Homer, the gloom
and the intensity of ,^schylus ; not compressed to the closest
by Thucydides, not fathomed to the bottom by Plato, not
sounding with all its thunders, nor lit up with all its ardours,
even under the Promethean touch of Demosthenes ! And Latin
— the voice of empire and of war, of law and of the state, inferior
to its half parent and rival in the embodying of passion and in
the distinguishing of thought, but equal to it in sustaining the
measured march of history, and superior to it in the indignant
declamation of moral satire ; stamped with the mark of an
imperial and despotising republic ; rigid in its construction, par
simonious in its synonymes ; although opening glimpses of
Greek-like splendour in the occasional inspirations of Lucretius ;
proved, indeed, to the uttermost, by Cicero, and by him found
wanting ; yet majestic in its bareness, impressive in its concise-
* Inflexibihty — in my copy ; surely a misprint.

112 NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
ness ; the true language of history, instinct with the spirit of
nations and not with the passions of individuals ; breathing the
maxims of the world, and not the tenets of the schools ; uniform
in its air and spirit, whether touched by the stern and haughty
Sallust, by the open and discursive Livy, by the reserved and
thoughtful Tacitus."
I finished my evening at the Cosmopolitan, where were
Charles Clifford, the author of Travels by Umbra (whose
quaint and quite peculiar humour I used to enjoy much in
my earlier House of Commons days, but of whom I have
seen little for many years), and John Ball, who has been
spending the winter in the Canaries, where he greatly
enjoyed the vegetation with its 400 or so endemic
plants, but suffered, strange to say, from the crowd —
there having been quite " a boom " of winter visitors
there this year.
7. Breakfasted with Layard, who spoke very highly of
Castelar's behaviour in all his dealings with him. He also
mentioned, incidentally, that the "Great Elchi" was not
a phrase specially applied to Lord Stratford by the Turks.
"The Great Elchi" simply meant "the Ambassador," as
distinguished from " the Minister Plenipotentiary."
Later I went to see Sir Arthur Gordon, who has come
to England on leave. He told me that a gentleman
of his acquaintance had, after travelling for a winter in
India, calmly remarked : "I think it is a question worth
considering whether an attempt should not be made to

i888] FRA ANGELICO'S ANGELS 113
govern India on a frankly democratic basis ! " Well
might Hiibner say: " L' Angleterre n'a qu'un ennemi k
redouter dans I'lnde : c'est elle meme."
10. A large party at York House.
In the course of the morning Miss Kathleen Gordon
reminded me of a passage I read to her last year, in
which occurs the Hne : —
" But wonders and no end of wondering finds.''
It is quoted in Dr. John Brown's charming little paper
on Minchmoor, from a poem called Albania.
In the afternoon some of us went to Kew, where Dyer
was our' guide to the Azaleas, which were just past their
best, but stUl in great beauty. We talked of their strange
and indescribable colours. " They are," said Mrs. Higford
Burr, "like nothing but the shot-silk dresses of Fra
Angelico's angels."
After returning to York House I walked on the lawn
with Spencer Walpole. He is writing the Life of Lord
Russell, and I asked him whether his impressions as he
proceeded were more or less favourable than when he
began ?
" He has risen very much in my estimation as a man"
was his reply.
12. Walpole mentioned in the course of our talk
yesterday that the remarkable lines by Lord .RusseU, which
VOL. II. H

114 NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
I quoted in i866,i were written in 1813, though they
only took their place in the pages of the Nun of Arrouca
(where I found them) about a decade later. To-day he
writes : —
"Lord Russell's lines (which you quoted at Elgin) were
written in 1813, presumably on his way home to his first
Parliamentary Session from the Duke of Wellington's camp
in Spain. They ran originally : —
" ' If o'er my head, by sad decree of fate
Sorrow impends, alone I bear the weight.
Then be my heart like ocean, common road
For all, but only for the dead abode.
Man shall not sound the deep o'er which he steers.
And none shall count its treasures or its tears.'
" The two first lines are not, I think, in the Nun of Arrouca.
They struck me as very remarkable in a young man of twenty-
one returning home after fifteen months of memorable travel."
Evelyn, who was one of the successful candidates in the
recent competition for Attaches, has begun his work in
the Eastern Department of the Foreign Office.
15. Arthur Russell caUed on us yesterday at the house
we have taken for the rest of the season, and brought
two pamphlets — one, by Mrs. Grote, on the Philosophical
Radicals of 1832; the other, neither more nor less than
a slim volume of poems by her husband !
In an Ode, written in 1815, the future Historian of
1 See Elgin Speeekes, Edinburgh, 1871.

i888] A BLUE NAIAD 115
Greece, and Apostle of the Ballot, thus addresses the
Thames : —
" Oh ! were it mine to flee the storms of life,
And sink forgotten in thy lilied lap !
There 'midst thy hanging cells,
O'erarched with dropping pearl.
And gems of dewy lustre sweet, to breathe
Thy halcyon air, thy soft Elysian calm !
To wreathe me in the brede
Of some blue Naiad's hair.
Some Nymph unweeting of the thrill of woe.
Where dwells unclouded peace."
Destiny had reserved for him a very different fate, for I
think the Harriet who fell to his lot, and who is frequently
addressed in later pages of the work of which I am writing,
was, though blue enough, as little like my idea of a " Naiad "
as anything in female form weU could be.
Mr. Austin Dobson, Mr. Edmund Gosse, Mr. Sketchley,
Mr. Alfred Morrison, Mr. Garnett, of the British Museum,
Mr. John Webster, of Edgehill, and others, dined here to
talk over a project which has been started, of com
memorating in the course of the summer the two hundredth
anniversary of Pope's birth. A variety of resolutions were
duly moved, seconded, and passed.
In the course of conversation Mr. Gosse mentioned
that he had a shelf in his library which he kept for Les
P'echis de Jeunesse, that is, for the poems of authors who

ii6 NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
had pubHshed a single volume of verse, and then turned to
other pursuits. One of these, it appears, is Ruskin. His
Pkhe de Jeunesse recently sold for £zS-
The evening papers contained the news of the death of
the Emperor Frederick, which took place at eleven this
morning. I thought of toy Peterhead speech of December 1867,
in which I said of him and the Princess Royal : —
" There are probably no two lives in Europe on which so
much, at this moment, depends. It is only to be feared
that people will expect impossibilities, and be annoyed when they
see that the accession to the throne of a wise King and Queen
does not produce a Golden Age. Nothing of the kind is to be
looked for. Their accession will be one good influence more,
amongst other wider and deeper influences."
Nearly one-and-twenty years passed before they ascended
the throne, and then all ended in a tragedy !
" What shadows we are ! and what shadows we pursue ! "
16. The Breakfast Club met at Aberdare's, Venables, F.
Leveson Gower, Acton, Wolseley, and myself, being present.
Conversation took almost from the first a military turn.
Aberdare mentioned that his connection. Sir WiUiam
Napier, thought that Pompey was a better general than
Caesar, and that if he had been left to follow his own plans
he would have been victorious. I asked Wolseley if he
had formed any personal opinion upon that subject, but
he replied in the negative.

SIR JAMES LACAITA 117
He explained to us the discrepancy between his own
and Lord George Hamilton's estimate of the amount of
tonnage required to transport the same number of men
across the Channel. " Lord George," he said, " had been
supplied by his subordinates with the amount of tonnage
that would be necessary to transport across the Channel a
thoroughly well-equipped English force, ready to enter upon
a long campaign. He, on the other hand, was speaking of
the amount of tonnage that would be required to transport
a French army across the Channel with a view only to a
sudden dash upon London. He thought that if such an
attempt were made, half of the invading force would
probably be landed somewhere near Brighton, and the
other on the coast of Essex."
Later I looked in at the Athenaeum, where I met
Lacaita, and we went together to write our names at the
German Embassy, after which we had a long talk about
Italian affairs. Premising that he was a pessimist in so far
as they were concerned, he proceeded to give a most gloomy
account of the financial and economic situation, dwelling
much on the rapid disappearance of the small land-holders,
crushed out of existence by the pressure of taxation, which
few, except those who had resources unconnected with land,
were able to resist.
20. On the i8th, after showing my Guindy plants to
Lady Hobart, with whom I first saw Guindy in 1875, and

II 8 NOTES FROM A DIARY [fune
who possessed it for three years, as I did for five, I was
suddenly taken ill — fairly struck down by the rigours of
an English June ! Sir George Errington came to meet
Lady Hobart and her nieces, but I could not appear, and
spent all yesterday in bed.
On the 9th was published in Paris the Life of Lady
Georgiana Fullerton, by Mrs, Craven, I received it on
the nth, and finished it on the 17th. The 12th April
was her eightieth birthday. Yet the book does not
show any failing, and her handwriting is clear and firm
as ever.
The opening page is to the last degree characteristic : —
" Pendant la longue dur^e de ma vie, il m'a 6i6 accordd
une grice dont je ne saurais assez bdnir Dieu, bien que
cette grace ait €x.6 la source et la cause de mes douleurs les plus
vives. " D6s ma jeunesse (et cette bonne fortune m'a suivie plus
tard) il m'a 6te donnd de rencontrer des ^tres dignes de toute
la tendresse, de toute I'admiration et de tout le respect qu'il
faut ^prouver ensemble, pour que le coeur soit pleinement
satisfait. Peu de vies, sans doute (du moins c'est le petit
nombre), sont totalement privdes de rencontres semblables ; je
puis toutefois, k cet ^gard, regarder la mienne comme privi-
Idgiee, et c'est pourquoi je ne saurais m' associer aux pessimistes
qui, en prdtendant les peindre d' apres nature, font des tableaux,
dont on pourrait 6tre tent^ de conclure que la puret6, M pidt6,
la noblesse et I'honneur n'ont jamais eu, ou n'ont plus ici bas de
personnification vivante !
" Ceux qui ont Iu, ou seulement parcouru mes Merits savent

i888] MRS. CRAVEN 119
qu'ils sont tous consacres k prouver le contraire. Cette preuve,
lorsque j'ai pris la plume pour la premiere fois, j'ai pu la foumir
bien pres de moi ; mais depuis, j'ai eu le bonheur de pouvoir la
repeter souvent, et de la trouver en tous lieux et en tous pays."
The interest of the book is sustained throughout, though
neither the life nor the character of Lady Georgiana lend
themselves, despite her genius, anything like so well to
biographical purposes as some others with which Mrs. Craven
has had to deal. Altogether it is an excellent, and, having
regard to the writer's age, I suppose almost an unique
performance. To a meeting at the India Office, with Northbrook in the
chair, where Stephen proposed and I seconded a resolutioii
to commemorate Maine by a medallion in Westminster
Abbey. Thereafter, Arthur Russell, Lyall, and I went with the
Dean to see the place which he could offer as the best at his
disposal. It was not very good, but Russell and I wandered
long about the aisles without seeing anything better.
I found, to my amusement, that Arthur Stanley had
smuggled both Maurice and Kingsley into the sacred
precincts ! Their busts look across a dark recess straight
at Keble, who is very properly placed hard by Wordsworth.
I saw for the first time Stanley's monument, and recalled
more than one visit with him to this " Temple of silence and
reconcUiation."

120 NOTES FROM A DIARY [fune
21. Dined with Spencer Walpole. He reminded me
of an old name for Froude's Nemesis of Faith which had
slipped my memory — " Faith with a vengeance" !
We talked after dinner about the recollections of old
people. Trevelyan recalled a nurse who remembered seeing, when
a factory girl, at Coventry, Nelson and Lady Hamilton in
that town.
Henry GrenfeU had talked with an old woman who
remembered the death of George II. ; and our host
recollected asking a cousin of his father's whether she
had known Horace Walpole, and being answered in the
affirmative. 23. Returned from Oxford, whither I went yesterday
afternoon to attend the dinner given by the authorities of
BaUiol to Lord Lansdowne, Viceroy Designate of India.
I slept on my own staircase of 1850, in the rooms
occupied in my day by Chitty, immediately under those then
occupied by Midleton, and above those which long after
wards belonged to my eldest son.
The after-dinner speaking, unlike that of the last gather
ing in the same place which I attended (see these Notes
for 1877), presented few features of interest. The Master,
who is much aged since I last saw him, before I went to
India, let faU, in his curious fragmentary manner, a variety
of remarks, very simple yet very finished, about departed

i888] FRANCIS NEWMAN 121
members of the College. Characteristic, too, was his
allusion to the Vision of Er in the Republic of Plato,
when he said that the speeches were to be few, because it
was thought that those who had gathered on this occasion
would prefer to go away into "the meadow," there to
question each other as to what had befallen them during
their passage through life.
The guest of the evening, in touching upon Canada,
treated the continued cohesion of the Dominion as still
doubtful, and told in another portion of his speech an
amusing enough story about Lord Russell, of whom a Scotch
gillie would appear to have said, " Forbye it has not pleased
the Lord to mak him a sportsman, he's a verra decent
body ! "
The most memorable circumstance of the evening was
the presence of Francis Newman, the oldest Fellow of
the College who took his degree in 1826, to whom I was
introduced by Jowett. Our talk strayed to Kossuth, of
whose intercourse with him he told me he had recently
published Reminiscences, and who, it seems, is rather older
than I thought — 87 this year.
Dined with the Bishops, meeting, amongst others, Mr.
Bellasis, the Lancaster Herald, who led the Jubilee Pro
cession up the Abbey last year. He told me that his father,
in cross-examining a witness, had turned the laugh against
himself when pressing his examination as to the precise

122 NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
nature of the man's occupation he elicited the reply : "I
sometimes mends old Bellowses."
 writing of a young lady, who having left a
despairing English lover on a foreign shore had extracted
two French proposals on her way to her own country,
remarks : " C'est magnifique mais ce n'est pas I'amour ! "
26. We learned this morning that Hampden had
succeeded in his recent examination for the "Britannia."
Adrian was safely landed in Sandhurst while we were at
Haifa. Dined with the Thrings. Mr. Walter, of the Times,
long M.P. for Berkshire, mentioned that he had once
asked Mr. Knox, the Police Magistrate, whether his
opinion of the lower classes had been raised or lowered
by his experience in that capacity. "Raised," was the reply.
Thring and others spoke of the great improvement which
the last seventy years had seen in the population at large.
I thought of Turgot's saying : " Nos gens corrompus d'au
jourd'hui auroient ete Capucins il y a cent ans."
28. Met George Boyle at the Athenaeum. He told
me that the monument to Keble in the Abbey had been put
up at the expense of Twisleton. It appears that he read, at
her request, the poem for St. John's Day to his very charm
ing wife, an American, nie Dwight, just before she died.
Boyle mentioned also that not long ago a Bishop of the
Scotch Episcopal Church — I think the Bishop of Glasgow —

i888] LORD PANMURE 123
was performing the funeral service over his brother in a
churchyard on the borders of Kinross-shire. It was wet
under foot and he stepped on to a stone hard by.
When the service was over someone said to him, " Do
you know on whose tomb you have been standing?" "No,"
was the answer.
" On the tomb of Hackston of RathUlet, the murderer of
Archbishop Sharp ! "
Boyle told me, too, on the authority of Lord Cockbiirn's
recently published recollections, that the last Lord Panmure
but one, on recovering from an illness, drank the health of
" the disappointed one," meaning his eldest son. Fox Maule,
one of my predecessors in the representation of Elgin. A
tenant who was present remarked that he had never before
heard the health of the Devil drunk !
We talked, too, of the late Bishop Wilberforce. Some
one, it appears, said to that prelate : " I met Lake of Balliol
the other day, and was surprised to find that he was not
higher in the Church than he is."
" Ah ! " was the answer, " you thought the Lake had
expanded into a Sea."
29. Lunched with the Wards, meeting M. Jusserand,
to whom I was lately introduced at Pembroke Lodge. He
is secretary to the French Embassy, and possesses a most
remarkable acquaintance with English literature.
He told us that one of the Heads of Departments at

124 NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
the British Museum had lately received a letter full of
questions from some German scholar, who apologised for
the trouble he was giving by saying : " You know we
Germans are very questionable people."
Presided at night at a meeting of the Pope Commemora
tion Committee at Twickenham, whither came amongst
others. Professor Henry Morley, whom I had never met
before. 30. Read a pamphlet by Col. Yule, privately printed,
on the history of the Pitt Diamond. It disposes of some
of the romance which attaches to that famous stone, but
leaves its story remarkable enough. It seems to be quite
true that St. Simon advised the Regent to purchase it,
that it formed a part of the jewels carried off" in the
extraordinary burglary at the Garde -Meuble after the
September massacres in 1792, that it was pawned in 1798
for a supply of horse furniture needed for the Army of
Italy — as it had been in 1796 for a similar advance — and
that it was worn by Napoleon at his coronation in the
pommel of his sword.
On the other hand there seems no foundation for the
statement that it was brought down to Madras by a slave,
who, coming into relations with an English skipper possessed
of much decision of character, was dropped into the Roads
by that worthy, who sold the famous gem to the jeweller
who sold it to Governor Pitt,

i888] LORD HERSCHELL 125
I should have been sorry if the wonderful fact had been
impugned, that Napoleon wore in his sword the gem which
had founded the fortunes of " the pUot who weathered the
storm." The Breakfast Club met at York House — only Aberdare,
Herschell, and Arthur Russell being present.
The first repeated the highly characteristic entry, not
hitherto published, in Sir Charles Napier's Diary : " Ripon
is a passive idiot ; Stanley a fiery fool  they be
damned." The personages thus disposed of were the Lord
Ripon, who died in 1859, and the "Rupert of debate,"
who were respectively, I think. President of the Board of
Control and Secretary of State for the Colonies (and
War), when the old warrior made the above indignant
and very likely unjust observation.
Herschell said that he had returned recently to Constan
tinople, on our first journey to which place, in 1872, our
acquaintance began. From Constantinople he had gone to
Greece, Where he was very much struck with Tricoupi. That
statesman, when, at the command of the king, who had been
left in the lurch by his former Minister, he took the reins of
power, was the object of the most frantic popular hatred.
In a few weeks he was the hero of torchUght processions.
Ere long he induced a bitterly hostile Parliament to pass a
Bill by which a hundred out of their number were consigned

126 NOTES FROM A DIARY [June
to political extinction ; and when he dissolved, amid the
forebodings of some of his best friends, he obtained a
crushing majority.^
Something said about the Reynoldses, the two brothers
who converted each other, led to James I., in whose reign
they lived : and I took out of my pocket a coin of Mary
Stuart, which De Tabley gave me yesterday. We talked of
it for some little time, when Herschell, who, as I have men
tioned above, is Chairman of the Gold and Silver Com
mission, produced a co-metaUic coin invented by a work
man at Pittsburg, in which the centre was gold and the
circumference silver, having a definite relation of weight to
each other, so that the value of the coin should always
remain the same.
He told us, too, that Locock, when he was dying of some
disease which puzzled his physicians, looked up, and said,
" How I should like to be at the post-mortem.''
Arthur RusseU said that in the beginning of the Forties,
when war seemed imminent between France and Prussia,
Frederick WUliam IV. had, through bis father. Lord
WiUiam Russell, then our Minister at Berlin, asked the
Duke of Wellington whether in the event of hostilities
breaking out he would undertake to command upon the
Rhine. The Duke replied that, subject to the permission
^ He lived, however, to ruin the finances of Greece, and to betray the
hopes which the best of his countrymen had founded on his advent to
power (1898).

i888] ARCHBISHOP WHATELY 127
of his sovereign, he felt himself young enough to accept the
king's proposal.

fuly
I. A large party at York House.
Pater told us last night that the late Master of Trinity
once heard Wordsworth preach ere yet he was Bishop of
Lincoln, and when he was only a Cathedral dignitary.
He devoted much time to explaining to his congre
gation, that Canon in Greek meant originally a straight
pole or rod. "Surely," said Thomson, "it was unnecessary
to prove at such length that a Canon meant a stick."
Mr. Bishop cited a singularly good pun attributed to
Archbishop Whately. Some tiresome person asked him the
distinction between Services — the fruit of the Pyrus Sorbus
— and Medlars? "There is all the difference," he replied,
"between Officium and Officiosus."
2. Dined with the Literary Society, whither Franque-
viUe came as a guest.
On my left sat the elder Walpole. We talked of the
life of Lord Russell, which his son, as I have mentioned
above, is writing, and he said that Lord Russell had,
when speaking of one of his reform bills, said to him :
" And what shall we do with Midhurst ? "

128 NOTES FROM A DIARY [July
"If you harm Midhurst," Walpole replied, "won't I
quote against you Milton's lines : —
" ' The great Emathian conqueror bid spare
The House of Pindarus.'
You know it was the borough which introduced Charles
Fox to Parliament.''
Bowen talked of an American paper which contained
an announcement to this effect : " Mr. Browning has
declined to furnish us with a poem in exchange for a
thousand dollars. We find ourselves more unable than
ever to understand Mr. Browning."
Coleridge repeated a saying of old Sir William Erie
to some one who had offended him : " You don't know the
strength of the expressions which I am not using."
3. Finished glancing through the privately printed
volume which contains Lord Stanhope's conversations
with the Duke of Wellington.
Gneisenau he put high as a strategist, that is, as the
framer of a plan of campaign — Bliicher as a tactician;
that is, as a manceuvrer of troops on the field of
battle. It appears that Pitt once received an offer of service
from some volunteers clogged with all kinds of conditions,
the last of which was that they should not be sent out
of the country. He noted in the margin "except in
case of actual invasion " !

i888] MR. MARSH 129
What a good illustration of Mrs. Craven's saying, that
if a French and an English word are all but the same,
they usuaUy mean something quite different, is the nick
name which was given to one of Louis XVIII.'s favourites :
"Suffisance et Insuffisance." Not "Sufficiency" and
"Insufficiency," but "Conceit" and "Inefficiency."
Lord Stanhope put to the Duke the same question
which the Warden of Merton did here last year to Sir
Donald Stewart (see these Notes for 1887), and the
Duke replied that the longest march of which he knew
anything was made by troops under his command in
India — 72 miles from five o'clock one morning to twelve
o'clock the next day, all fair walking.
5. My almanac tells me that it is the first of the
"dog days," but we have rain which reminds one of
Madras in the North-East Monsoon, and, alas ! a very
different temperature.
To call on LoweU, who is confined to his room by the
gout, but chatted agreeably. We talked over many
American friends and acquaintances. Of Mr. Marsh, so
long Minister of the United States in Italy, he said
that his mind drained a larger surface than that of
any man he had ever known.
The name of Mr. M^eagh turning up, to whom I was
introduced by Mat Arnold last year, he said that that
gentleman and he 'had one day been looking on as a
VOL. II. I

130 NOTES FROM A DIARY [^uly
deputation, which seemed far from respectable, passed.
" I wonder who bailed them ah out," said his companion.
7. The Breakfast Club met at Goschen's. It is the
only institution in this country of which I know anything
that has gained by the present state of politics : for when
we were all one way of thinking, the talk was apt to be
too Parliamentary. To-day Trevelyan sat on one side of
our host, Lansdowne on the other, and a compact
Unionist phalanx, consisting of Lacaita, Arthur Russell,
and myself was flanked by Herschell and Aberdare.
We talked of Lord Sherbrooke, and Herschell mentioned
that some years ago, when his troubles were first begin
ning, he said i — " The difference between CardweU and
me is this : Cardwell's mind is going and he does not
know it ; my mind is going and I do know it."
We had an amusing account of a black bishop who
is assisting at the Lambeth Conference now assembled,
and who argued against polygamy on the ground : ist,
that Adam was given but one wife ; 2nd, that the arrange
ments of the ark were altogether hostUe to the institution,
for that Noah, if polygamy had been countenanced by the
higher powers, would assuredly have been directed to
take some pretty girls on board rather than leave them
to be drowned. All this he put forward, it would seem
in perfect good faith, amidst the hilarity of his brethren.
It must have been a relief to converse which an

i888] THE EMPEROR'S ILLNESS 131
eminent prelate described to me the other day as "very
celestial, but rather fatiguing."
Goschen showed us a portion of the Iliad, magnificentiy
printed by his grandfather. Some of the letters were
pecuhar ; Delta, for example, being Hke an English D.
Yesterday the cloud, which has overspread the whole
country for six days, lifted, and we had bright sunshine,
though it was still cold enough for fires in the evening.
We had a large party, among them General Godfrey
Clerk, who was the Adjutant-General of the Madras Army
during most of my time, and is now Deputy-Adjutant-
General at the War Office ; his wife, the Arnold Forsters,
my nephew Douglas, Miss Gordon, and M. Jusserand, who
told me that Barthelemy St. Hilaire, so often mentioned
in earlier pages of these Notes, is still busying himself
with Aristotle at 83,
Mr. Arnold Forster mentioned that his Citizen Reader,
an attempt to enlighten "our new masters," had been
taken up by the School Boards, and was selling by tens
of thousands. His wife, a daughter of Maskelyne's, has
translated a little book by Paul Bert on Geometry, which
tries to make the beginnings of mathematics intelligible
to children.
10. Mr. Hovell came to see me by desire of the
Empress Frederick, and gave me many detaUs with refer
ence to the illness which has ended in so calamitous a way.

132 NOTES FROM A DIARY [July
The Emperor was able to sign papers even as late as
the 13th of June, and on the 12th he insisted upon
putting on his uniform and decorations to welcome the
King of Sweden.
II. Spent my morning chiefly in a conversation at
Argyll Lodge with the Duke, whom I found preparing
the speech by which he proposes to introduce his motion
for a vote of confidence in the Irish Policy of the
Government, and partly at the Liberal Unionist Office
in Great George Street with Bickersteth, who now directs
its operations.
Thence I passed to the Athenaeum, where I found on
the table Father Coleridge's Life of Lady Georgiana
Fullerton, chiefly, but not entirely, translated from Mrs.
Craven's. He gives in the original a copy of verses*
written by Lady Georgiana after her conversion, but
describing her state of mind before it.
The following are two of the best lines : —
" For thy deep love my spirit yearned, but trembled at thy creed.
And longing still to pluck the flower, refused to sow the seed."
12. The papers and the mouths of men are full of the
astonishing weather. The fall of snow is reported from
many quarters, amongst others from Norwood, and even
from the city !
' They ^re frarjslated into French prose by Mrs. Craven.

l888] DISOBEDIENT PARENTS 133
Breakfasted with George Lefevre, who mentioned that
his uncle, Lord Eversley, had told him that he distinctly
remembered both Pitt and Fox in the House of Commons,
and his family had told him that after he had listened to
the latter he had said to his father : " What was that angry
old gentleman talking about ? "
13. Evelyn told me at breakfast that Victor Morier,
son of Sir Robert, and Mr. Alston, a son of the chief clerk
of the Foreign Office, walked the other day in the Park.
After their walk was over they went in different directions,
each taking a hansom.
The next morning both excused themselves to Mr.
Scoones, with whom they were reading, for absence from
his lectures on the ground of having to attend inquests.
He thought that it was a joke, but no such thing ! Their
hansoms had on their way to their respective destinations
both run over and kiUed people.
To lunch at the Speaker's, but he was too ill to come
down. Later we sat on the terrace, where Lowell, who
was of the party, quoted the characteristic remark of an
American girl : " This is the age of disobedient parents."
In the evening, after a meeting of the Pope Celebration
Committee, Mr. Courthope, Mr. Austin Dobson, Mr.
Gosse, Mr. Tedder, and others, dined at York House.
Mr. Courthope told us that Pope, on whose life and
works he is one of the greatest living authorities, cared

134 NOTES FROM A DIARY [July
nothing whatever for music. He possesses four volumes
of libels on the poet, annotated by his own hand.
Mr. Sketchley cited, not as a jest but as a thing which
had really occurred within his knowledge, the remark of
an Irish guide who was showing a party round the Tower :
"Here Sir Thomas Moore was executed, our great Irish
poet ! "
14. The Breakfast Club met at 11 Upper Brook Street,
under the presidency of Lacaita. Aberdare and Arthur
Russell were there, and Story came as a non-resident
foreigner. Our host told us that a rich Danish lady, well stricken
in years, had married her young ItaHan courier. Time
passed, and one day Cavour told Victor Emmanuel that
he would be very much obliged if this personage were
ennobled. "Why? "said the King.
" Because," replied Cavour, " the Danish Minister brings
so much pressure to bear upon me that I find it difficult
to resist.''
" But what has the man ever done ? " rejoined the
King. " Nothing," was the answer, " except to marry an old
woman for her money."
" Che alma forte ! " said His Majesty : adding presently,
" II Conte de Almaforte."

DOMINUS CUM FORTIBUS 135
Cavour screamed with laughter, but the title was actually
conferred., Some time afterwards its fortunate possessor asked
Fenzi, his banker, to give him an inscription for his
house. Fenzi applied to a priest, who, being a man of
esprit, gave him : " Dominus cum fortibus," and that legend
was actually to be read on the house in the Lung' Arno
until it passed into the hands of a new proprietor.
Conversation turned to MorelH, the Italian Senator,
and his criticisms on the German galleries, which have
made havoc in their catalogues. Inter alia, it would
appear that the famous reading Magdalene of Dresden
was certainly not by Correggio ; and that a Venus there,
hitherto thought comparatively little of, was really a very
fine example of that rarest of masters, Giorgione.
Story told us that the celebrated picture of the Barberini
Palace was not a portrait of Beatrice Cenci, and not by,
Guido. " It is known," he added, " perfectly well what
Beatrice Cenci was like. She had abundant auburn hair, a
little round face — rotondetta — and so bright an expression
that some one who saw her after death said she still
seemed to smile.''
Aberdare cited a happy rendering of the motto, " Virtute
et oper^," when it was said that the uncle of the last
Lord Fife had ruined himself by Virtii and Opera giris.
I suspect, however, that my old friend's misfortunes had

136 NOTES FROM A DIARY [July
more to do with the latter than with the former cause
of mischief. Have I ever noted the story, well known
in the north, of his uncle. Earl James, saying, when
his nephew, who had nothing but a' small allowance, was
Hving with the Regent, " Eh ! but Jamie must be a
very clever man to do all that on ;^Soo a year!"
Story, Arthur Russell, and I walked away together,
and were bade to stand and deliver at the corner of
Grosvenor Square by a rather pretty laughing girl, who
insisted upon having money for Hospital Saturday, and
I found, as I made my way to the Athenaeum and the
Waterloo Station, that the whole town was in the hands
of these fair marauders.
This is quite a new development since I went to India.
We dropped Story in South Audley Street, left the
sacred book of the club at 2 Audley Square, and walked
on, talking amongst other things, of the Boulanger duel
and the change of manners that had taken place here with
respect to duelling in our own generation.
Arthur Russell told me that he had read in some old
paper an account of a hostile meeting between one of the
Dukes of Bedford and another Duke. "Their Graces,"
it was said, "proceeded in their coaches in the direction
of Chalk Farm, but coming to a place where a board
was put up to say that rubbish might be shot there, their
Graces alighted."

1 888] GHOSTS? 137
To a garden party at Fulham Palace, where met,
amongst others,  with whom I talked about his
experiences when he was staying with us some years ago.
 saw nothing and heard nothing, but was
oppressed in the strangest way by a vague sense of terror,
as if something alarming were about to appear. He told
me at the time that he felt " as if the ghost were coming
round the comer."
Charles Bowen who slept in a room next that occupied
by  accounts for what he heard by supposing that
it was a sound transmitted in some odd way from a
distant part of the house. What he did hear was the
rustle of a dress past his bed, and steps in the passage
into which his room opened. Much surprised, he went
into his wife's room, the same which was occupied by
 but found that she had not moved, and he
passed the rest of the night there.
The eminence of the two persons concerned, the one a
very distinguished judge, the other a well-known man of
science, make their statements interesting. They curiously
confirm the impression which my wife used to have of
a light girl's footsteps tripping down the stair which led
from the passage above alluded to to the room adjoining the
drawing-room, where she sat so much at night.
I never myself saw or heard anything in the slightest
degree extraordinary at the house in question, although I

138 NOTES FROM A DIARY [My
have no want of the feeling of eeriness so common amongst
my countrymen. I lived much in both the rooms which
 and Bowen occupied. They look down the great
avenue, and are as bright as rooms well could be.
1 6. The Midletons and others who came to us on
Saturday left this morning. St. Swithin gave them an
unfriendly welcome, for heavy rain fell all yesterday.
This afternoon in the large room at the " Star and
Garter " at Richmond, with the Duke of Cambridge in the
chair, I moved a resolution in favour of the establishment
of a Lower Thames VaUey branch of the Selborne Society.
It was seconded by Sir. J. Whitaker EUis, supported by
Sir E. Herstlet, of the Foreign Office, and carried nem. con.
20. Returned to York House this afternoon from a visit
to the Mallets, at Englefield Green.
Rainy weather continues, but we saw to some advantage
yesterday the fine view from Cooper's Hill.
The Thames must have been in its present state when
Denham described it in the celebrated quatrain : —
" O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream
My great example, as it is my theme !
Though deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull.
Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
Sir Robert Morier, now Ambassador at St. Petersburg,
came down to dine, and I sat with him talking about
Russian affairs tiU two this morning, but make no note

i888] MORIER 139
of what he said further than to record a happy phrase —
"Russia is a great bicephalic creature, having one head
European and the other Asiatic; but with the persistent
habit of turning its European face to the East and its
Asiatic face to the West.''
The conclusions at which he has arrived seem in
essentials curiously like those at which I arrived in 1864,
when, after my visit to that country, I gave up so large a
part of my time to writing on Russia.
Morier is full of the idea of developing an important
trade between the interior of Siberia and the outer world,
via the Obi and the Yenisei. His only son has just gone
off to take part in a voyage directed to this end.
I spent some hours to-day with Hooker at his pretty
house not far from Sunningdale, to which he has given the
name of " The Camp," from its having been built on the
site of the encampment where the victors of Culloden, too
disreputable to be brought into London, were placed by
the Government of the day.
He still goes three times a week to Kew to work at the
" Flora Indica."
24. To talk with Lord Hartington in the forenoon, and
Lord Northbrook in the evening, about the existing state
of politics.
27. Gave away the prizes and spoke at the Holborn
Estate Girls' School, near St. Clement Danes. As I was

140 NOTES FROM A DIARY [July
leaving the room in which the proceedings took place I
asked one of the people connected with the Institution,
" What is the Holborn Estate ? "
" The Holborn Estate," he replied, " has had a curious
history. Some centuries ago St. Clement Danes was a
West End Parish, and as it had no poor whatever connected
with it, the churchwardens did not know what to do with
a sum of ;^i6o which had come into their hands. They
laid it out accordingly in buying a field. The field now
produces a rent of ,;^S,ooo per annum, and these schools
are supported out of it."
29. Lady Dempster Metcalfe, Lord and Lady Knutsford,
and Mrs. Simeon, nSe Childers, with her husband, a son of
the "Prince of Courtesy," and inheriting something of his
manner, were with us.
 told me that some one had been going round
his gallery with an English nobleman, and had said
to him :
" But where is your beautiful Venus ? "
" Oh ! " said the other, " the Venus is sold."
" Sold ! " exclaimed his friend. " What could have
induced you to part with it ? "
"Well, the fact is," was the reply, "that my daughter
was showing some visitors over the house one day, and I
overheard her say, pointing to it, "That is a portrait of
my grandmother in the days of her youth ! "

i888] MRS. SIMEON'S ALBUM 141
30. Mrs. Simeon showed me her album, in which many
of the leading men of the day, Bright, Gladstone,
Hartington, Chamberlain, Lord Derby, &c., &c., have
written. Kimberley, oddly enough, has selected two of
the Hnes which he quoted to me from Tasso at the
Northbrook Club dinner last year, "Cogham la rosa,"
&c., &c.
One of the most amusing contributions is a quotation
from Lowell by Aberdare, "Advice to a young lady
about to be married : Always let your husband have —
your way," and Mat. Arnold's, dated 1884, is highly
characteristic :
" Of little threads our life is spun.
And he spins ill who misses one."

August
I. Looked over, with Mr. and Mrs. Simeon, my collection
of stones, and incorporated with it those lately received
from Ceylon, the most interesting of which to me is a
sapphire — half blue and half yellow.
Mr. Simeon told me that the riots of February 1886
occurred on the day on which he went with Childers,
who is his father-in-law, to the Home Office.
So strangely were things managed at Scotland Yard,
that the first news of what was going on, which reached

142 NOTES FROM A DIARY [August
his chief, came about 6 o'clock in a private letter from
Mrs. Childers, in which she mentioned that their windows
had escaped !
My wife had this afternoon what, if the skies had been
propitious, would have been a garden party, but it was
impossible to venture out.
A band of girls from Hungary, picturesquely dressed,
played extremely well. I asked them to begin with the
famous "Rakotzki March," to which their countrymen
like being killed. I should prefer going through that
process to the air of "The Men of Harlech," or "The
Garb of Old Gaul."
5.  told me that on her way to India she asked
a friend where her father was, using a pet name for this
grave official, who had governed a district about as big
as Belgium.
The friend, never having heard the pet name, and
supposing it to belong to a four-footed favourite, replied :
" Oh, he is on the hurricane deck ; the butcher is feeding
him with the other little dogs ! "
The celebration of the 200th anniversary of Pope's birth
came to an end yesterday. Accident put me at the head
of it, not unwillingly, for, although I am as little a Popean
as Wilkes -was a Wilkite, still I consider Pope to have been
one of the most potent influences in giving its character
to what Mat Arnold, in his introduction to Ward's

i888] MR. AUSTIN DOBSON 143
English Poets, rightly caUs "our exceUent and indis
pensable Eighteenth Century."
The essential part of the celebration was the collection
of a great number of Pope relics in the Town Hall here,
at the opening of which I presided on July 31st, putting
on record in a brief speech the names of the persons who
had done most to bring it together, giving the reasons why I
thought the celebration was likely to be useful, and intro
ducing Professor Henry Morley, who delivered a long address
on the poet and his works, which, with much else, is recorded
in the Richmond and Twickenham Times of last week.
The catalogue, which was done against time, is a most
creditable piece of work, and Mr. Austin Dobson's Dialogue
to the Memory of Alexander Pope, prefixed to it — a real
possession. I have been looking at Mr. Dobson's pieces a good deal
lately, and very charming they are — not equalled any
where, as far as I know, in their own kind. I have lit
on nothing superior to Before Sedan, to which Coleridge
called my attention years ago, and which he read aloud
last autumn in Heath's Court; but a great many are
delightful, such as The Ladies of St. James's, Little Blue
Ribbons, The Story of Rosina, The Ballad of Sim Brocade,
The Child Musician, Good-night Babette, and a Fancy from
Fontenelle, founded on the words, " De memoire des roses
on n'a point vu mourir le jardinier."

144 NOTES FROM A DIARY [August
I see from the Notes to the Story of Rosina that the
young ladies who are said to have agreed that the sunset
was "vulgar" did not stand alone. Charles Blanc says
of Boucher : " II trouvait la Nature trop verte et mal
eclairee; et son ami Lancret, le peintre des salons a la
mode, lui repondait : Je suis de votre sentiment, la Nature
manque d'harmonie et de seduction ! "
9. I looked in yesterday at Bain's, and saw there the
copy of Green's Diary of a Lover of Literature, which had
belonged to Fitzgerald, the translator of Omar Khayyam.
Fitzgerald had a curious book-plate, said to have been
designed by Thackeray — an angel with a blank shield upon
the breast.
Green was a remarkable person. I have long possessed
his book, and was turning it over to-day with the help of
marks made by me a quarter of a century ago. One of
them was at the passage where, as early as October 1796,
he caUs attention to Chesterfield's prediction of the French
Revolution, written in 1753. It has often been noticed
since ; but it is clear that Green had never seen any notice
of it. Speaking of a sea view by Turner, he says on 2nd
June 1797 : " I am entirely unacquainted with the artist,
but if he proceeds as he has begun, he cannot faU to become
the first in bis department."
10. Recent conversations have recalled my attention to
my Greek coins and electrotypes, at which I have hardly

i888] MADAME RENAN 145
looked since I took office in AprU 1880, and to-day I
went to the British Museum where I was shown by Poole
the extraordinary collection of rarities, Bactrian and other,
which he wishes to buy from General Cunningham for
the nation.
My large gold medal struck at Cuddapah, A.H. 1161,
was quite new to every one in the coin-room.
Madame Renan writes from their summer home in the
C6tes du Nord to say that the next volume of the Histoire
du peuple dlsra'el will probably appear in the end of
October, and adds : —
" L'endroit ou nous sommes est charmant, frais et doux, avec
des bois et des pres verts, des landes couvertes d'ajoncs, un ciel
gris, des rochers et une mer splendide ou sombre. Nous y
vivons en famille, avec nos enfants et nos trois petits-enfants ;
c'est le meilleur moment de I'annde."
At night took place the final meeting of the Pope
Commemoration Committee, whose proceedings closed
with a small balance to the good, which is to be expended
in buying works bearing on the Pope period, for the
Twickenham Free Library.
20. Returned to York House from High Elms, whither
we went on the i8th.
Yesterday we walked over to Holwood, which is now
the property of Lord Derby, and where he and Lady Derby
are at present staying.
VOL. II. K

146 NOTES FROM A DIARY [August
Holwood, or as he used to spell it, HoUwood, was
bought by Pitt in 1784, because, as he himself wrote, he
had bird-nested there when a boy, and had always wished
to make it his own. The house which he inhabited must
have been a small one, and bas now quite disappeared.
The appearance of the place, too, must have much changed,
for Wilberforce, in his Diary, mentions that he, Grenville,
and Pitt, went out armed with bill-hooks to cut their way
from one large tree to another through the Holwood copses.
The ground is now laid out as a park.
When I was looking up the notices of Holwood in
Lord Stanhope's Life of Pitt at the Athenaeum to-day,
I came upon two lines from the Rolliad which amused
me. The Marquis Graham of that day, being then a Lord
of the Treasury, had unguardedly said in the House of
Commons, that if they caUed his honourable friend "a
goose," they would naturally call him " a gosling."
The wits of Brooks's, after speaking of his father,
added — " His son, the heir apparent of Montrose,
Feels for his beak and starts to find a nose."
I went down the South-Western line as far as Twicken
ham with Sir Joseph Hooker. Conversation turned upon
the collection of vegetables which Dr. King sent to me
when I was staying at Belvedere, in 1875, and Hooker said
with truth that a Flora Cibaria of India was much wanted.

EDWARD FITZGERALD I47
21. Glanced through a life of Kitty Clive, who lived
long and died at Twickenham. There is Httle in the
book worth remembering, save that Goldsmith wrote of
her : " She has more true humour than any actress upon
the English or any other stage I have seen ; " and that
Johnson said of her : " Clive is a grand thing to sit by ;
she always understands what you say."
She died in December 1785. Her husband, with whom
she quarrelled long years before, appears to have been one
of the well-known Herefordshire family, and to have been
a man of some learning.
Turning over the curious Suffolk sea phrases collected
in the second volume of an Edition of the works of Edward
Fitzgerald, I came upon one which is worth noting : " The
sea was all clock calm, calm, that is, as an old-fashioned
eight-day clock with its open face and steady pulsation."
It appears that these clocks were credited with knowing
a good deal of what goes on in the house they inhabit,
more indeed than the masters themselves, and of being able
to foretell the death of a member of the family.
On another page is told an amusing story of a sailor who,
bolder on sea than on land, said, " I don't mind a cow, but
I'm not much wropt up in a bullock."
In these volumes the first edition of the Rubdiydt is
published in its entirety, as well as the later one, which
I possessed till somebody annexed it.

148 NOTES FROM A DIARY [August
Heve is one of the most striking variations — No. 33 in
the first Edition : —
" Then to the rolling Heav'n itself I cried.
Asking, ' What Lamp had Destiny to guide
Her little children stumbhng in the dark ? '
And  'A blind understanding ! ' Heaven replied."
The version I have hitherto known, has : —
" Earth could not ansvi^er ; nor the Seas that mourn
In flowing Purple, of their Lord forlorn ;
Nor rolling Heaven, with all his signs revealed
And hidden by the Sleeve of Night and Morn.
" Then of the Thee in Me who works behind
The Veil, I lifted up my hands to find
A Lamp amid the Darkness and I heard
As from without—' The Me within Thee blind ! ' "
25. From London to Stratton, traveUing as far as
Micheldever with Stuart Rendel, whom I had not seen
since I returned from Syria. He mentioned that the Due
d'Aumale had given an account, in his presence, of his
father's visit to Paris during the Revolution, and of his
interview with Danton, who advised him to leave the city,
saying, "You have been here twenty-four hours; I know
every one you have seen, and you have talked too much
already." '^ During that interview Danton claimed the
^ On 26th June 1895 the Due repeated this story at The Club
amidst many other interesting anecdotes. It was his last appearance
amongst us, an evening not likely to be forgotten by any one who was
present.

i888] LOUIS PHILIPPE 149
September Massacres as his own act, saying that it was
necessary that a stream of blood should flow between the
Noblesse and the people.
Have I anywhere noted that the last Lord Houghton
told me that Louis PhUippe remembered being at play
with some of his relatives at the Palais Royal, when a
very old man, most carefully dressed, came up to them
and said, " Quelle belle Bourbonaille ! " Before taking
his departure, the same old man placed his hands on
the head of the future King of the French, saying,
" Souvenez-vous que vous avez €te beni par Voltaire." He
also remembered his tutor saying to him one day as they
walked, " Look at that man on the other side of the street.
You win be glad to have seen him ; that is Jean Jacques."
My fellow-guests at Stratton were Sir Peter Lumsden
of the Afghan Boundary, with his wife ; the Humphry
Wards, and Mr. Henry Calcraft, now Permanent Secretary
at the Board of Trade. Oddly enough, I have seen him
pass from being an extremely handsome boy to be an
elderly man, without ever having chanced to make his
personal acquaintance till now.
He was extremely intimate with Disraeli, and it was he
who put together the pleasant little book. Wit and Wisdom
of Lord Beaconsfield. Soon after Lothair came out, its author
said to Mr. Calcraft, " I owe the best thing in the book to
you — the description of the Enghsh language as consisting

ISO NOTES FROM A DIARY [August
of the words 'nice,' 'jolly,' 'charming,' and a 'bore.'"
Presently afterwards, Calcraft met Motley at dinner, who
told him that Disraeli had said precisely the same thing
to him. At their first meeting Calcraft repeated to Disraeli
what Motley had said. " Oh ! " replied he, quite unabashed,
" Motley did not find it out and liked it ; you did find it
out and didn't mind it ! "
Northbrook lent me his correspondence with General
Gordon. Here and there in the course of it that eccentric
warrior hit a nail on the head ; but many of the letters were
foolish, and a very long one, in which he developed his
theory about the Seychelles being the Garden of Eden,
was the composition of a mere lunatic.
I had quite forgotten that my host had so many good
pictures at his country home, and doubt whether I saw
the one I should most care to possess, when last at Stratton.
It is a portrait by Vandyke of Lord Newport, the son of
Philip Sidney's Stella.
Sir Peter Lumsden gave a curious account of seeing, at
the funeral of the French prisoners who had been murdered
by the Chinese during the Anglo-French Expedition, a
seeming Chinaman suddenly appear on the scene, throw
off his pig-tail, and exchange in a moment the dress which
he wore for the full pontificals of a Catholic Archbishop.
He had been Hving in the country disguised as a native
for many years.

LORD DUFFERIN 151
Lord Dufferin writes under date of ist August, giving an
account of the new Viceregal Lodge at Simla : —
" The view is splendid, particularly at this season of the year,
when the atmosphere is clear after rain, for we are high enough
to look beyond the mountains to the plains, through which the
Sutlej winds and shines under the evening sun like a great
golden serpent."
Into the frieze of the dining-room he has introduced the
shields of all the Governors-General and Viceroys from the
time of Clive, and has allowed the shield of Holwell to
occupy a vacant space immediately before that of Clive,
although Holwell was never Governor-General.
He adds : —
" Did you know that the Heralds had given him a Canton on
his shield, upon which a death's head on a sable ground is dis
played ? I suppose in allusion to the Black Hole of Calcutta —
a singular armorial distinction for an English family to have
acquired." He writes, too, as was natural, of Sikkim, Burmah, and
Ayoub Khan, giving also a very interesting account of
being chloroformed for an operation, a sensation which
he found most delightful. He remembered before the
sudden black darkness a sensation of being carried up
wards, accompanied by a fond hope that he should
eventually come down again all right !
29. Mr. Thurston (see my Indian volumes) has sent me
his catalogue of Batrachians, etc.

IS2 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
He names our mysterious little friend of the Nilgiris,
so seldom seen and so hard to capture, Ixalus variabilis.
One, which is now in the Madras Museum, appears to have
been found at Kotagiri, inside the flower of an arum.
My sister sends me a long extract from a letter which
she lately received from Fraulein Jenicke, in which the
latter gives an amusing account of her experiences in the
island of Sylt. She was building a sand castle by the
sea, when she perceived that a lady near her, assisted by
a very large number of children, was buUding a much
larger sand castle. The unknown turned out to be the
Queen of Roumania, and the owners of the adjoining sand
castles became acquainted. September
I. This morning I went over the Cathedral of Exeter,
which is a much finer thing than I had imagined. The
windows are full of geometrical and decorated tracery,
without any intermixture of the Perpendicular. The style
of the whole is that of the latter part of the thirteenth and
the earlier part of the fourteenth century, though the
western portion belongs in date to the second half of the
fourteenth century.
The building is immensely long, an unbroken body
running between the two towers, which were retained from
an earlier cathedral and turned practically into transepts.

EXETER 153
Even the Choir of Le Mans is much shorter than that of
Exeter, and the Choir and Lady Chapel together are longer
than the Nave. The whole forms a class by itself, and
can be compared, says Freeman, with nothing but its own
miniature at Ottery.
I bought to-day his book about Exeter, which forms the
first of the series called Historic Towns, and have read
enough of it to appreciate the vigorous paragraph with
which it closes : —
"Exeter is emphatically a city of the past. Not only the
great gulf by the Thames that swallows up all things, but
Liverpool, Manchester, Brighton, its own neighbour, Torquay,
have left Exeter far behind in the several elements of its com
pound life. But the city in which Briton and Englishman have
an equal share, the city which has stood so many sieges at
the hands of so many enemies — the city which received one
William at its eastern gate and the other at its western — the
city which still keeps fp.t least the successors of the Wall of
,/Ethelstan, the Minster of Leofric, the Castle of Baldwin, and
the Guildhall of Shillingford — the one English city in which a
Lord of the World has sat as a local lord, needing the approval
of the lord of another world to confirm his acts — such a city as
this can never lose its historic charm, A typical English city,
alike in its greatness and in its practical fall from greatness, but
more than an Enghsh city in its direct connection with two states
of things more ancient than the English name in Britain — the
city alike of Briton, Roman, and Englishman, the one great
prize of the Christian Saxon, the city where Jupiter gave way to
Christ, but where Christ never gave way to Woden — British
Caerwisc, Roman Isca, West Saxon Exeter, may well stand

154 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
first on our roll-call of EngUsh cities. Others can boast of a
fuller share of modern greatness ; none other can trace up a
life so unbroken to so remote a past."
Later in the day I went on to Heath's Court, where I
found Lord and Lady Coleridge alone.
3. Our conversation turned on the ist upon Sir David
Dundas, and Coleridge told me that he had once been
staying with him in Scotland when Sir George Rose
was a fellow-guest. Dundas said to him, when he was
standing in a room where the literary tastes were more
conspicuous than the tidiness of its owner, "Won't you
take a chair. Rose ? "
"I can't," replied the great punster, "they are all
booked." To this visit, too, I owe a delightful formula for expressing
the very minimum of confidence in a medical man : —
" Oh ! I don't think the presence of  would interfere
with the curative processes of nature."
Coleridge gave me a copy of Newman's Poems, which
I have not hitherto possessed, except in so far as they are
included in the Lyra Apostolica.
He showed me, too, a volume entirely in Keble's
hand,^ in which their author had, as early as 20th
September 1822, copied out for a lady, whose initials
were M. H. P., a good many of the poems which
^ Or very skilfully lithographed from it.

i888] LORD COLERIDGE 155
afterwards were published in the Christian Year.
Wherever Keble made a change in these poems before
he published them, he made it, so far as I observed,
to their advantage ; but several of my chief favourites
were amongst them substantially in the form in which
we all know them; as for instance the exquisite lines
for the Wednesday before Easter.
In the same volume there were some verses in
which the difficulties of the Sid in reaching the sea,
which attracted my attention last year, have been turned
to poetical account by Mr. Cornish, the same who wrote
the lines about the red-breast, which are printed in the
Christian Year.
Coleridge read to me also a very vigorous hymn by
Dr. Arnold, which has not, I think, been pubHshed;
and showed me, in a book of extracts which he had
begun at Balhol in 1842, a poem on the Blessed Virgin,
by Keble, not rising to the level of his best work, but
interesting. Sir John Coleridge was over-persuaded by
some injudicious friends not to publish this.
I returned this afternoon to York House, travelling
from Ottery Junction with Sir Edward Malet, who told
me a variety of things, chiefly about persons, which I
was glad to know. He was on his way from Endsleigh
to Berlin, which he hoped to reach on the 8th, taking
Balmoral en route. Such are the penalties of greatness !

156 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
5. Miss Erskine came to stay with us. She told me
that she had asked Mr. Adams, the astronomer, the
well-known riddle, "Which part of a cathedral does Mr.
Gladstone resemble?" To this the answer has hitherto
been, " The Nave which separates the two Aisles ! "
"You should amend the answer," he said, "and make
it : ' The Nave, which takes in the Masses and separates
the two Aisles.'"
6. Read in the second volume of Macaulay's History
of England his account of the scene in the Cathedral
of Exeter when William of Orange went thither in
mUitary state: —
" He mounted the Bishop's seat, a stately throne rich with
the carving of the fifteenth century, Burnet stood below, and a
crowd of warriors and nobles appeared on the right hand and on
the left. The singers, robed in white, sang the Te Deum. When
the chaunt was over, Burnet read the Prince's declaration, but
as soon as the first words were uttered, prebendaries and
singers crowded in all haste out of the choir. At the close
Burnet cried in a loud voice, ' God save the Prince of Orange ! '
and many fervent voices answered ' Amen.' "
I looked yesterday at the account of the expedition
in Burnefs History of his own Times, but Macaulay
seems here to have followed other authorities.
Freeman says the Bishop's throne, which he calls the
stateliest Cathedra of its kind in England, was making
in 1328.

i888] GENERAL DODGSON 157
Clara, Evelyn, and I dined with Captain Webb,
meeting, amongst others,. General Dodgson, who was
commanding in Delhi when I was there in 1875. I
dined along with him in Sir John Strachey's camp, and
between us sat a lady, who, learning that General
Dodgson was a native of Montrose, went at great length
into the question whether it would be best for herself
and her family to remain in India or to settle in the
immediate neighbourhood of their relative who had
lately succeeded to the Dalhousie title and estates.
General Dodgson listened most patiently to all that she
had to advance, and then with a marked Scotch accent,
gave his opinion in the following words: "WeU, ma'am,
Forfarshire is a very nice part of the country to come froml"
9. When consulting Konig's Deutsche Literatur Geschichte
for another purpose, I lit on the fact, which I ought to
have known long ago, that my favourite Aennchen von
Tharau was composed originally by Simon Dach, one
of the Konigsberg group of poets (1605-1659) in Platt-
Deutsch, and translated into German by Herder. It is
said to have been addressed on her marriage to Anna
Neander, the daughter of a friend.
I see, too, that Nun danket alle Gott, the chorale of
Leuthen, was written by Rinkart in 1649, just after the
"ever-memorable and holy treaty" had put an end to
the Thirty Years' War.

IS8 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
12. Drove over to spend an hour or two with the MaUets.
Sir Louis is putting the finishing touches to his Report on
the Silver Question, not finding himself able to sign Lord
HerscheU's. We talked of the conversations between the
Duke of WeUington and the late Lord. Stanhope, alluded to
on an earlier page, and Mallet told me, on the authority of
Lady de Ros, that Lord Stanhope had sadly bored the Duke
by his continual questions. His habit was to sit down
beside the great man after dinner, on the little table on
which was placed his lamp. Lady de Ros perceiving this,
thought to create a diversion in the Duke's favour by cover
ing the table with books ; but the enemy was not to be
foiled. He had soon taken off all the books and resumed
his old place. " I don't think much of your fortifications,"
said the Duke to his unsuccessful ally.
On our way home we descended the hUl beyond Engle
field, and then, turning to the right, followed the course of
the river towards Staines, a beautiful and typical English
drive. I think it was in point of weather the most agreeable
day we have had since Whitsuntide.
I lit to-day, in one of the Reviews, on an amusing sa5dng
about a poor poem by Dorat, which was admirably illus
trated, " II se sauve de planche en planche." I wonder if it
was known to the author of the distich, more witty than true: —
" Rogers's Italy, Luttrell relates.
Had been utterly dished were it not for the plates."

i888] SPAIN 159
14. Sir Clare Ford, Arthur's late chief at Madrid, came
to lunch. I repeated to him the remark made to me by
a gentieman in India: "I cannot think the position of
Spain to be very bad when she has at the head of her
three great parties three such men as Canovas, Castelar,
and Sagasta." He assented, adding that "the most
favourable symptom in Spain appeared to him to be
the rising importance of a sensible middle class and the
relegation of the military chiefs to their proper business of
soldiering." 20. Leaving York House on the morning of the 15th, I
traveUed via York to Nunnington Hall, which belongs to
an elder brother of Rutson's, its present occupant. Since
his name was last mentioned in these Notes, he has
married a daughter of the late Charles Buxton by the
lady whom Sydney Smith as truly as wittily called the
" Venus de Medici."
Nunnington Hall stands on the banks of the Rye, and
a few hundred yards down the stream there is a mill-race
mentioned in " Domesday Book." The house was buUt by
Lord Preston, Secretary of State to James IL, and he
lived in it, after his pardon, in great retirement. Its
chief feature is a fine oak staircase.
The 1 6th was, unlike its predecessor, a lovely day, and
we spent much of it in the open air, but nothing occurred
specially to distinguish it, unless it was that Lyulph Stanley

i6o NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
quoted, at dinner, a singularly feHcitous description of the
Porte : " C'est un sanglier qui est devenu cochon."
On the 17th I rode with Rutson to Rievaulx Abbey,
across a pleasant undulating country covered with crops,
which, seeing that we have had the worst season I re
member in England, appeared to me surprisingly good.
We crossed Lord Feversham's Park, once the property of
Charles II.'s Duke of Buckingham, but now and for some
generations in possession of the Duncombes. Nearly the
whole of the house stands in ruins, not having been rebuilt
since the great fire some years ago.
When the Park had been left behind we soon came to
a steep declivity, which we descended to find ourselves
once more on the banks of the Rye, and to follow it, for
some hundred yards up its course, to the beautiful Cistercian
House to which it gives its name.
Rievaulx was built in 1131 in a locality described as one
" vastae solitudinis et horroris," no doubt from the whole of
the region round having been so devastated by the Danes
that civilisation was interrupted in it for a long period.
The nave has disappeared, and the most important
parts of the building which remain are the choir and the
refectory. The blue sky seen through the clerstory
windows was the most distinctive recollection which I
carried away from my visit to the interior.
On the 19th I drove from Easthorpe to Malton, and went

YORK MINSTER i6i
thence by raUway to York, where I spent a quarter of an
hour in the always deHghtful Minster, remembering, in the
presence of the Five Sisters, the curious answer made by
Stonewall Jackson, which I have recorded on an earlier
page. I recalled, too, as I walked from the station, my wife's
lines, written just before we started for India, when I
went to York to preside over Section F of the British
Association: — " O'er the cathedral towers
The autumn sunset pours
Its Alpine glow.
Making each carving rare.
Gargoyle and buttress fair.
In crimson show.
" Behind, in clouds of grey.
Fades into night the day
That was so bright ;
And deeper on each spire,
Each moment shines like fire.
The dying light.
" I go to power and place.
To rule in right of race.
Millions of men.
But though come place and power.
Comes that sweet evening hour.
Never again."
From York I proceeded via Leeds to Ilkley, where I
VOL. II. If

i62 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
passed last night, visiting early this morning Bolton Abbey,
or Priory, as it ought to be called.
Here it is the nave which has been best preserved — so
well preserved that part of it has been roofed in and turned
into a very pretty and serviceable church.
On my way up the Wharfe to the Strid, through pleasant
woods, I duly visited the little moss-house which affords
the best view of the ruins, whose aspect is, however, not
improved by the roof of the church above alluded to.
I had taken the precaution of bringing a volume of
Wordsworth with me, and on this spot I finished re-reading
The White Doe of Rylstone. It is that poem which gives
to Bolton its only advantage over Rievaulx. Full though
it be of the most characteristic faults of its great author,
it gives me now almost as much pleasure as when I first
became acquainted with it forty-three years ago.
How perfect in their kind are the following lines : —
" What harmonious pensive changes
Wait upon her as she ranges
Round and through this PUe of State
Overthrown and desolate !
Now a step or two her way
Leads through space of open day.
Where the enamoured sunny light
Brightens her that was so bright ;
. Now doth a delicate shadow fall,
FaUs upon her like a breath,
From some lofty arch or wall.
As she passes underneath."

THE WHITE DOE OF RYLSTONE 163

And again : —
" She sees a warrior carved in stone.
Among the thick weeds, stretched alone ;
A warrior, with his shield of pride
Cleaving humbly to his side.
And hands in resignation prest.
Palm to palm, on his tranquil breast ;
As little she regards the sight
As a common creature might :
If she be doomed to inward care
Or service, it must lie elsewhere.
 But hers are eyes serenely bright.
And on she moves  with pace how light !
Nor spares to stoop her head, and taste
The dewy turf with flowers bestrown ;
And thus she fares, until at last
Beside the ridge of a grassy grave
In quietness she lays her down ;
Gentle as a weary wave
Sinks, when the summer breeze hath died.
Against an anchored vessel's side ;
Even so, without distress doth she
Lie down in peace, and lovingly."
From Bolton Abbey I went via Bradford to Rochdale,
where I dropped a train, and drove up through that
phenomenally hideous town to ask for Mr. Bright at
One Ash. I saw his daughter, who did not give me
as good an account as I had hoped to hear, speaking of
his condition as still precarious.
One Ash is a rather modest habitation, just outside

i64 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
the town, and somewhat above it. The rhododendrons
which border the little drive leading up to it have, I fear,
rather a bad time in the smoke-laden atmosphere.
21. Talked with  . Speaking of her way of think
ing, she said : " What was sunset to me when I was outside
the Life is sunrise to me now I am within it."
24. Quitting Smithills in a thick mist on the morning
of the 24th, I found my way to Liverpool, and so by a
steamer of the new Manx Line to Douglas. The sea was
perfectly calm, but our speed was diminished by the thick
ness of the weather. We took just under four hours to
accomplish a journey which is said to have been made
in just under three. That infers a speed of full twenty-four
miles an hour.
A drive of between two and three mUes, first through
the town of Douglas (which lives more, I think, than any
other by letting its lodgings), and then along country roads,
took me to Government House, where I found Mr. Spencer
Walpole, his wife, and daughter.
The conversation turned in the evening on Lord RusseU's
verse, and His Excellency read a passage in which there
were two lines quite new to me : —
" The smallest pearl, if in a necklace set.
Has gained a value from the pearls it met."
He also called my attention to the fine lines by Lady
Lawrence, nh Honoria Marshall, which are quoted in

i888] TURNER 165
Merivale's Life of Sir Henry, under the title of "The
Soldier's Bride." They begin with the verse : —
" And wilt thou be a soldier's bride.
Girl of the sunny brow ?
Then sit thee down and count the cost
Before thou take the vow !"
He pointed out to me a remarkable passage in
the Life of Sir WiUiam Napier, edited by Aberdare. It
occurs, I may as well mention, at page 489 of vol. ii., for
the book is provided with no index, and has only a
meagre table of contents : —
" When Admiral Sir Edward Codrington came to Guernsey
officially, he and papa and his son and daughter and myself
went to Sark. Coming back in an open boat, at about 8 p.m.
there was a beautiful golden sunset on a calm summer sea,
just crisped with the ripple of an evening breeze. Sir Edward
was criticising Turner as extravagant and unnatural, and my
father said that was thought so because few had observed
Nature so closely under so many aspects and tried to paint
some of the rarer ones — yet not so rare, either, were observation
keener. Sir Edward said, ' Well, General, but now those reds,
those blazing reds — you must allow those are overdone.' My
father looked round, and, pointing with his hand to the sea
toward the east, said, ' Look there ! ' As every little ripple rose
it was a triangle of burning crimson sheen from the red sunset
light upon it, of a brilliancy not even Turner himself could
equal in his most highly coloured picture. The whole broad
sea was a blaze of those burning crimson triangles, all playing
into each other, and just parting and showing their forms again
as the miniature billows rose and fell. ' Well, well ! ' said Sir

i66 NOTES FROM A DIARY [September
Edward, ' I suppose I must give up the reds, but what will you
say to his yellows ? Surely they are beyond everything ! '
' Look there ! ' said my father, pointing to the sea on the
western side of our boat, between us and the setting sun —
every triangular wave there, as the ripples rose, was in a
yellow flame, as bright as the other was red, and glittering
like millions of topaz lights. Sir Edward Codrington laughed
kindly and admiringly, and said, ' Well ! I must give in — I've
no more to say ; you and Turner have observed Nature more
closely than I have.' "
A fine eminence which stood up in front of us for some
time was South Berule, near which people Hke to find the
site of the Black Fort where the hero went to visit his
lady love in Peveril of the Peak. I have been having
that book read to me as a preparation for a visit to this
island. Sir Walter Scott, however, was never in Man,
and drew largely on his imagination for its scenery.
The Athanasian Creed coming up in the course of our
walk, my host mentioned that Lord Cottenham's brother.
Dr. Pepys, having begun a sermon in Worcester Cathedral
with the words ; " Opposed as I have been aU my life to
the Faith of the Catholic Church," was interrupted by
some one in the Nave chanting in a loud voice : " Which
Faith except every one do keep whole and undefiled,
without doubt he shall perish everlastingly."
This evening my wife and Clara, who left York House
a few hours after I did, and have been staying with the
Stephens in Ireland, arrived by a Belfast steamer.

CANNING AND PERCB^AL 167
26. A fine autumn day, cloudless and perfectly stiU.
We walked some way into the interior, and then turning
round, came down upon Onchan Harbour and the cliff
scenery near it.
Inter alia, we talked of the story which Coleridge had
told us both, of Lord Erskine having said to Canning
" I think Mr. Percival must be a more considerable man
than you believe him to be, for you never make a speech
without making an enemy, and he never makes a speech
without making a friend — that goes a good way in the
long run." The sea and the herring boats which were
going out of harbour led to the Commission on which Mr.
Walpole served a good many years ago with Frank
Buckland, and in the course of which they were led to
believe that the operations of the fishermen had really
little effect in diminishing the population of the seas.
When they came in sight of the great rollers on the coast
of 'Cornwall, Buckland, after contemplating them for a
Httle, turned to his companion, and said : " This shows
what a damned fool the House of Commons is, compared
to the Atlantic Ocean ! "
27. We made a long expedition to-day by one of the
3-feet gauge lines of the island to Bishop's Court, passing
on the way the Tynwald HUl, where the Legislature still
assembles on 5th July, in obedience to one of the most
ancient and venerable customs of the Norse races.

i68 NOTES FROM A DIARY [October
Bishop's Court is an interesting old building, portions
of which go back six hundred years. The Bishop (Dr.
Bardsley) made a good cicerone, and showed us, amongst
other things, the library of Bishop Wilson, and the walk
where the old man used to pace up and down tiU the
age of ninety-two. The grounds are pleasant and extensive,
full in spring of primroses and wild hyacinths. It was in
these walks that I was introduced to Professor Rhys, the
Celtic scholar, who has come over here to study Manx.
, October
On the 8th I drove with Lady Henley from Watford
Court to Daventry and Ashby St. Ledgers, once the seat
of the Catesby family, to which belonged the famous
favourite of Richard IIL, who figures in the line : —
" The cat, the rat, and Lovell our dog."
The Gunpowder Plot conspirator was one of the same race.
At Watford I received a letter from  , who recalled
an amusing story of Hayward's about Lady Waldegrave,
who, when she was about to marry Lord Carlingford, felt
faint, and her maid said : " Give her sal volatUe ; she always
takes it when she is married." He also quoted from
Landor, " Those are the worst of suicides who voluntarily
and propensely stab or suffocate their own fame when

WATFORD COURT 169
God hath commanded them to stand on high for an
example." At Watford I read a good deal of The New Antigone,
which is open, as a work of art, to some criticism, but
which has the only merit I ask for in a novel — that of
adding to one's acquaintance a new and agreeable figure.
Hippolyta is decidedly attractive in all the phases of her
very devious career.
I cannot say as much good of St. Ronan's Well. I
had it read to me in these last days because Coleridge
told me that he thought Miss Mowbray the most re
markable of Scott's female characters.
I bow to his judgment, but on my mind that much
suffering heroine has left no distinct impression at all.
10. Clara and I returned yesterday to York House,
and to-day we drove over to see Kinglake at Richmond.
He seemed more satisfied with the recently pubHshed
life of Lord Stratford than I had expected to find him.
I had no idea that the "Great Elchi" had got his start
so early; he was already employed on a negotiation of
first-rate importance — the treaty of Bucharest — at about
the age at which my two eldest sons entered Diplomacy as
unpaid attaches.
Kinglake showed us a sword which had been given
him by Garibaldi, and two despatch boxes, one or both
of which Lord Raglan had used during the Peninsular War.

170 NOTES FROM A DIARY [October
We drove on to Professor Owen's cottage, and found
him stin full of talk, though since his name was last
mentioned in these Notes some months ago, his power
of locomotion has much failed him.
He showed us the skull of a marsupial leopard lately
sent him from Australia, and talked much of a curious
instance of heredity in his own family. His grandson,
now an under-graduate at Cavendish College, Cambridge,
has developed so remarkable a turn for playing the organ,
that the authorities have been able to dispense with the
services of a regular organist. Now, Professor Owen's
mother was for several years organist of Ormskirk Church,
and her father again was long organist at Lancaster. Their
name was Parrin, and they came of ancestors who took
refuge in England after the Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes. 13. A note from Arthur RusseU two or three days ago
brought me intelligence of the death of Venables, so often
mentioned in these pages. He was seventy-eight, but
appeared still strong and hale last summer. This morning
there is an article upon him by Stephen in the Saturday
Review, which ends as follows : —
" With all his gravity of style and dignity of manner, a more
delightful, more amusing, more impressive, companion than
Mr. Venables has never been known. In the company of such
men as Mr. Thackeray, Lord Houghton, Mr. Spedding, Lord
Tennyson, Mr. Brookfield and many others not less well known.

i888] G. S. VENABLES 171
he would be the life and soul of the party, full of fun, revelling
in anecdotes, breaking out into Homeric laughter over jokes,
the sarcastic wit of which Swift would have been proud of,
though he might have sneered at their freedom from envy,
hatred, malice, and every sort of uncharitableness. He was
the most masculine and, in a strangely shy way, the most tender
hearted and affectionate of men ; he was loved and admired
as he deserved to be by those who really knew him, and to
them the obscurity in which it was quite as much his choice as
his fate to live can never make any difference in their belief
that the world, little as it is aware of the fact, has since his
death counted amongst its inhabitants one great man the
less." I do not remember where we first met, but it must have
been in 1856 or '57, among the group of men who founded
the Saturday Review, in the first number of which he
wrote the first leading article.
He was of a more Conservative way of thinking than
most of my friends, but I attached great importance to
his opinion upon matters which did not raise too distinctly
the issues between the Old order and the New.
16. Evelyn brought an exceUent story about one of the
kings of Naples from the Foreign Office. He was out
shooting with an English companion, when he suddenly
handed his gun to the latter and cHmbed into a tree.
This remarkable proceeding was speedily explained to
his fellow sportsman by the appearance of a wild bull
in full career who, however, swerved away without attacking

172 JSrOtES FROM A DIARY [October
him. When the Monarch descended he calmly observed :
" Questa bestia non m'e simpatica ! Se fosse un'leone ! "
23. To a lecture by Frederic Harrison at a little school
in Petersham, in which Lady Russell, with whom the
lecturer is staying, takes a special interest.
He chose for his subject the Great Books of the World,
confining, himself, however to those of an imaginative
character in prose or verse. Most of the judgments which
he enunciated were such as I should have expected as
being in accordance with what I know of his opinions, and
of his vast Hterary knowledge, but he put Quentin Durward
strangely high, and considered that it and Faust — what a
conjunction ! — were th^ two last great books of the world
of the kind about which he was speaking.
25. It has been the finest October I can remember, and
to-day was quite lovely, a great contrast to the chill and
gloom of the same day last year which I passed at Cracow.
31. I left York House vyith Clara on the morning of the
26th, and passed via Windermere to Fox Ghyll, near
Ambleside, which belongs to the widow of Mr. W. E.
Forster, nie Jane Arnold, and is at present occupied by
Mrs. Humphry Ward.
We woke on the morning of the 27th to find that a bad
evening had ushered in a much worse day.
The Rotha, on the banks of which the house stands,
was in high flood. About noon, however, I went up with

FOX HOW 173
Mrs. Ward to Fox How, which is only a few hundred
yards off. It has been the centre of the family since the
days of which one reads in Stanley's Life of Arnold, and
is now inhabited by the youngest of his daughters.
I saw there Arnold's library, the picture of him by
PhUlips (an engraving of which was the palladium of
most Rugby men's rooms when I was at Oxford), and
Wordsworth's Sonnet describing the view which we ought
to have seen, and did not see, from the drawing-room
window. It was copied in the poet's own hand, and runs as
follows : —
" Wansfell ! this Household has a favoured lot
Living with liberty on thee to gaze.
To watch while morn first crowns thee with her rays.
Or when along thy breast serenely float
Evening's angelic clouds. Yet ne'er a note
Hath sounded (shame upon the Bard !) thy praise
For all that thou, as if from heaven, hast brought
Of glory lavished on our quiet days.
Bountiful Son of Earth ! when we are gone
From every object dear to mortal sight.
As soon we shaU be, may these words attest
How oft, to elevate our spirits, shone
Thy visionary majesties of light.
How in thy pensive glooms our hearts found rest."
Later in the day we went in heavy rain up the right
bank of the Rotha, past the house which belonged to Mr.

174 NOTES FROM A DIARY [October
Quillinan, and where one of his daughters still resides.
When in sight of Rydal Mount, the home of Wordsworth,
we turned to the right, and, entering the grounds of Rydal
Hall, followed a tributary stream which made to-day an
almost continuous cataract between (what can only
deserve to be called in fine weather) the Upper and
Lower Cascades.
The 28th was no better than its predecessor, but we
managed a walk in waterproofs over the shoulder of
Loughrigg, which rises behind Fox Ghyll, and went on
to a point whence we could see Oxenfell. Later in the
afternoon we returned to Fox How, whither Miss Arnold
had brought an extremely curious album which belongs
to Miss QuUlinan, and had been the property of her sister
Rotha, now dead.
The first entry in it is the original of Wordsworth's
Sonnet addressed to her as his god-child.
Moore added in his beautiful hand: —
"Oft in the stilly night,"
Campbell in an equally good hand : —
" Britannia needs no bulwarks."
Hood, his : —
" I remember, I remember the house where I was born."
Professor Wilson, a translation of some lines by Meleager,
Wordsworth his quatrain ; —

l888] FOX HOW I75
" Small service is true service while it lasts.
Of humblest friends, bright creature ! scorn not one.
The daisy by the shadow that it casts
Protects the lingering dew-drop from the sun."
On one page are the signatures of Miss Martineau
and Charlotte Bronte, but this is not the book aUuded
to in Mat Arnold's poem on Haworth Churchyard, in
which book are the last lines ever known to have been
written by Scott. That book has been given by Miss
Quillinan to one of the Wordsworth family.
We searched for a poem by Wordsworth appropriate
to the diluvial weather, and found it in the one which
he wrote when the death of Mr. Fox was imminent.
" Loud is the Vale ! the voice is up
With which she speaks when storms are gone,
A mighty unison of streams !
Of all her voices, one !
" Loud is the Vale ! — this inland depth
In peace is roaring like the sea ;
Yon star upon the mountain top
Is listening quietly.
" Sad was I, even to pain deprest
Importunate and heavy load !
The Comforter hath found me here.
Upon this lonely road.
" And many thousands now are sad —
Wait the fulfilment of their fear ;
For he must die who is their stay,
Their glory disappear.

176 NOTES FROM A DIARY [October
" A Power is passing from the earth
To breathless Nature's dark abyss.
But when the great and good depart
What is it more than this ;
" That man, who is from God sent forth.
Doth yet again to God return ?
Such ebb and flow must ever be.
Then wherefore should we mourn ? "
In an interesting book of autographs belonging to
Miss Arnold I found a letter from Disraeli to the mother
of Mrs. Cyril Flower, dated in 1864, in which having
occasion to mention Carlyle, he spells his name Carlisle.
Both on the 27th and 28th Clara read to me many
of Faber's poems which have reference to the neighbour
hood of Ambleside.
I observed on Loughrigg that his botany was better, in
one instance at least, than his Biblical scholarship. He
says in some verses on that mountain : —
" Thy southern scars, all masked with oak-wood bowers.
Like feudal dwellings, mouldering whitely, shine
Through the soft nights of summer, as the towers
In the deep yellow moon-light on the Rhine.
" ' To winter's cold-eyed sun, o'er snowy drifts
That scriptural tree, the juniper, doth lean.
While many a patch of wannest silver shifts
O'er the strange dazzhng sheet of white and green.' "
I found the juniper in great abundance, but the

i888] EDGEHILL 177
juniper of our Bibles is not the juniper, but the Retama
rcetam mentioned in a previous page.
The rain ceased in the night, the Rotha sank within
its banks, and we reached the station at Windermere on
the forenoon of the 29th without driving through water.
We slept at Perth and got to Mr. Webster's, at Edgehill,
before one o'clock on the 30th. There we found Goschen
and his Secretary, Mr. Milner. In the evening we all
attended a very large meeting, over which Lord Fife
presided, and which was addressed by Goschen at great
length. To-day I have accompanied him to various
functions, and I spoke at the banquet which was given
him, in reply to the toast of the Indian and Colonial
Empire, proposed by Mr. Stormonth Darling, just appointed
Solicitor-General for Scotland.

November
I. A beautiful sunrise from my window overlooking
the Dee.
Goschen went south this morning. Our conversation
during these days turned chiefly, as was natural, upon
current politics, but he mentioned incidentally that
Bismarck had told him that he had not been able to
keep up with our modern English literature, but that
he knew our older authors pretty well, and added that
VOL. IL M

178 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
his favourite passage was that in the School for Scandal
where Charles Surface puts up for sale the portraits of
his ancestors.
The Chancellor had visited York in his early days,
and when there, fell in with some young cavalry officers
who invited him to their mess, "Da wurde es griindHch
pokalirt ! " he added.
In the middle of the day we ourselves went on to the
north, reaching my brother's at Delgaty soon after three
o'clock. 3. They have lately, by removing one of the ceUings
at Delgaty, found a roof curiously ornamented and
covered with inscriptions dating from the last years of
the sixteenth century, and reminding one of those at St.
Michel Montaigne (see these Notes for 1877).
On the afternoon of the 2nd I drove with Clara from
Turriff to Eden, and walked over the whole house with
her. The family occupying it had just gone, and all the
rooms were in confusion, but it seemed in substantial
repair. The grounds, on the other hand, had gone simply
to ruin. I could not have believed that thirteen years
could have made so great a change. The only thing
that had notably prospered was a Wellingtonia, of which
I remember the planting, and which is rapidly growing
into an extremely fine tree.
From Eden we drove to Banff, where we dined with Mr.

SPEECH AT BANFF 179
Ramsay, and where I addressed a meeting of my old con
stituents upon some aspects of the present state of politics.
From Banff we went to Aberdeen by a train which
only stopped at Huntly, a vast improvement upon any
thing I have ever known in the north, and after spending
some hours with Mr. Hunter, found ourselves once more
at EdgehiU.
7. The morning of the 4th went most agreeably in
examining our host's treasures, more especially his
wonderful collection of Rembrandt's etchings, and in
the afternoon we drove to Drum.
Over the fireplace in the library of that most interesting
old house there is a huge picture of Satan rising from
Chaos, by a grand-uncle of Mr. Irvine's.
It was sent on one occasion to some exhibition, and
required, of course, a gigantic case. This attracted the
attention of a passer-by, who asked the man, who was
in charge of the cart in which the picture lay, what it was.
He promptly replied : — " It's the deevil frae Drum
on an expedeetion ! "
Mr. Webster gave me a very pretty copy from the
Beckford Library of the Itinerarium Galliae by Sincerus,
published in 1649.
It was the "Murray's Handbook" of the period, and
guided the traveUer not only through Erg^ce, but to the
shores of England.

Erg^ce,

i8o NOTES FROM A DIARY [Noziember
The account of Oxford is highly edifying.
Here is the whole of it : —
"Oxoniam, urbem in qua Academia. Sedecim hie sunt
collegia. Unum ex iis vocatur Reginas, in quod si visant
extranei et conspiciantur k studiosis inhabitantibus in cornu
bubulo praegrandi de cerevesia sua ipsis propinant. Laudem
meretur officiosa haec humanitas aliam, quam effrenis alibi non
studiosorum sed latronum in transeuntes grassantium petulantia.
Bibliotheca libris et cufis et manuscriptis instructissima est in
coUegio novo."
In a copy of the works of the great Lord Halifax,
which was lying on my bedroom table, I found amongst
his Cautions for the Choice of Members of Parliament,
the following remark, having reference to the unduly
early age at which some men entered the House of
Commons in the days of Charles II, : —
" They were not green geese whose cackling is said to have
saved the Capitol — they were certainly of full age."
From EdgehiU we travelled on the 5 th to the Shands,
who have, since they were last mentioned in these Notes,
transferred themselves from New HaUes to Edinburgh.
A conversation on the 4th at Drum led me to look out
for and see, a Httle on the Aberdeen side of Stonehaven,
the ruined Chapel of St. Mary of the Storms, which gives a
touch of poetry to that stern coast.
In the evening, after meeting at dinner Mr. Butcher, the
Professor of Greek, Charles Dalrymple, and others, I

i888] ADDRESS AT EDINBURGH i8i
opened, as I did fourteen years ago, the annual course of
the Philosophical Institution, by reading an address on
Madras and Southern India. (See Appendix.)
On the forenoon of the 6th I took Clara to see some
of the more interesting places in Edinburgh, through which
we were piloted by Mr. Douglas, under whose guidance I
re-visited various things once familiar enough ; and saw,
amongst new ones, the house of Sir Walter Scott in North
Castle Street, as well as St. Giles's, now restored and made
into a very fine church. The monument of Montrose is
among the chief of its attractions.
I saw also the Advocate's Library, which, strange to say,
I do not think I ever entered before, and the tiny Norman
chapel of St. Margaret in the Castle.
In the afternoon I made a number of visits, seeing,
amongst old acquaintances. Lady Dempster Metcalfe, Lord
Moncrieff — who has lately retired from the Bench, and
whose son took his seat yesterday under the name of Lord
Wellwood — as well as Mrs. Young, whose husband, whom I
missed, also sat long with me in the House of Commons,
and was well known, not only for his business powers, but
for his dry humour. He it was who once said to me when
we were a little nervous on the Treasury Bench about the
results of a division, " Oh ! it's all right ; George Glyn has
gone up to Gladstone wagging his tail."
I called likewise on Sir WUHam Muir, formerly Lieut.-

1 82 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
Governor of the North-West Provinces, and now Principal of
the University of Edinburgh, who presided at my address
on the 5th; and on Mr. Findlay, the proprietor of The
Scotsman, who also took part in the proceedings.
I further made the acquaintance of Mr. Hutchison
Stirling, the Hegelian, whose daughter, a friend of Clara's,
paid us a visit lately at York House.
Conversation turned at dinner to the suit in which
Alexander Russel, the editor of the Scotsman, had been cast
in damages for a libel on Mr, Duncan Maclaren. Amongst
other amenities, it appeared that he described that gentle
man as a " wee snake." Some time after, Russel avenged
himself for losing his suit, in an article upon some statistics
which his old enemy had put together, by remarking that
every one knew that Mr. Duncan Maclaren was a "great
adder." It was with reference to this very case that Russel himself
told me an anecdote illustrating the working of the jury
system in civil cases in Scotland. He averred that one of
the jurymen was heard to say : — " I dinna ken, ye see, that
he was just sae wrang in the matter in hand ; but then there
were thae dawmed releegious opeenions o' his ! "
A gentleman present told us that on going into Russel's
room on one occasion, the latter remarked : " Dear me,
how white you get ! "
"At least," rejoined his friend, " I have a great deal more

COUNT FERSEN 183
hair than you." " Oh," replied Russel, " my hair long ago
preferred death to dishonour! "
To-day we returned to York House by the East Coast
route. 12. Mr. Gosling, lately Secretary of Embassy at Madrid,
and his wife, left us to-day. She is a grand-niece of the
Count Fersen, who took charge' of the Royal Family of
France on their flight to Varennes, and afterwards rose to
a very high place in Sweden, but was murdered by the mob
of Stockholm in 1810 under the quite erroneous impression
that he had been concerned in the death of the Crown
Prince Karl August, a member of the House of Augusten-
burg, who had been adopted by Karl XIII.
It was the death of that popular favourite which assured
the succession to the present family, Bernadotte having
been elected by the Estates a few weeks after he
expired, 13. I received a few days ago a letter from a French
gentleman, the Comte de Basterot, who writes : —
" The charming old place where you live is well known to
me. The last time I was there was in June, ,1871, at the baptism
of Princess Helena of Orleans, now one of the prettiest
Princesses of Europe."
Dined with the Duke of Bedford to meet a large
Unionist party, sitting next to Lord Selborne.
We talked of Faber, with whom he had been very

1 84 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
intimate at Oxford. I repeated to him Lady Derby's
estimate of Faber's conversation, which is very high, and
he agreed, with the reservation, that its fault, like that of
his letters and poetry, was its " superlativeness."
I told him Wordsworth's remark to Aubrey de Vere,
quoted on a previous page, about Faber's eye for Nature.
This, too, he accepted with the same reservation, saying
that Wordsworth saw Nature as it was ; Faber with a halo
round it.
He spoke much of Gladstone, and said that as far back
as 1872 he had talked of retiring.
The name of Edward Fitzgerald coming up, I asked
if he had read his Agamemnon. He had, and greatly
admires it, putting it above Morshead's, which I have not
seen, but hear praised, and remarking, with much truth,
that a translator might be too good a scholar. Perfect
translations, even of prose, he thought impossible; how
much more of poetry. He had not read the Rubaiyat of
Omar Khayyam, which I strongly recommended. That
led to talk about Oriental poetry, which does not attract
him. "People speak," he said, "of the Orientalism of the
Bible, but the Bible is curiously un-Oriental. The only
\ thoroughly Oriental book it contains is the Song of
Solomon." Conversation wandered to Sir David Dundas, and the

i888] MRS. RICHARD WARD 185
Duke mentioned that that worthy man had said to him as
they sat together in the House : " I often think that Maister
Gladstone wiU joomp on the table and run awa' with the
Mace." 25. Mrs. Ward, n'ee Simeon, and her husband, Mr.
Richard Ward, spent the Sunday with us. She told me
that Mrs. Procter, " our Lady of Bitterness," listened one
day to an excellent sermon by her friend Brookfield upon
evil-speaking and the sins of the tongue.
When it was over she met the preacher as usual at the
foot of the pulpit stairs, and said : " Hit you and me rather
hard, didn't it ? "
26. I dined to-day with the Plumbers' Company, of
which Mr. Bishop is, this year. Master.
The dinner, which was a very large one, took place in
the fine but quite modern hall belonging to the Saddlers,
in Cheapside. I proposed the toast of " Sanitary science
and technical instruction."
On vtxf. right was Lord Denbigh, with whom I had not
had a really long talk for many years.
He gave me inter alia a very curious account of his last
interview with Father Burke, the famous Dominican orator
and humorist, who spoke almost with despair of the state
of things in Ireland, and said that the appointment of
" good bishops " was the one chance of her being saved to
the Catholic Faith.

l86 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
27. I went to-day to the Athenaeum for the purpose of
reading in Heine's Thomas Reynolds the passages referred
to in a letter which I lately received from Byrne, and from
which the following is an extract : —
" The fact is, mankind has lived now so long, that there is not
one question political, social, or religious, that has not come up
before, in one form or another, at one time or another, among
one portion or other of the race, and received the judgment of
history upon it. Know this, take your question and turn on it
the strong side-lights of historical analysis, and the discoveries
you may make will be surprising. The pity is that the
Zauberstab der Analogic (as Novalis calls it) is such a difficult
thing to use efficaciously. It Wants a master-hand such as I
have not." " Wenn sie den Stein der Weisen hatten.
Der Weise mangelte dem Stein."
Freely translated : —
" The conjurer's wand a bauble were
The wand, without the conjurer."
" The passages in Heine are to be found in pages 85 and 95,
vol. xii. of my edition (Hoffmann and Campe, Hamburg, 1885),
in one of his miscellaneous writings, entitled Thomas Reynolds,
Reynolds being the informer who betrayed Lord Edward
Fitzgerald, " In the one he speaks of * the incalculable blessings which
union with Great Britain will some day confer on Ireland, when
Ireland, Scotland, and England shall have been fused into one
organic whole,' and of 'the pitiable figure an independent
Ireland would cut in the next European Volkertumier.' In
the other he speaks of the excellent compound that will result

i888] LORD DENBIGH 187
when the Germanic and Celtic elements have been molten into
one. I would send you the passages, but you will like best to
read them in situ with .the context.
" Heine was a great 'seer' into the tendencies of things, and
predicted correctly when other people's predictions, being of
their time and party, came to nothing."
Mr. Haskett Smith, from Dalieh, frequendy mentioned
in the Haifa period of these Notes, arrives, having been
summoned by Mr. Oliphant, who, with his newly-married
wife, was transferred to York House, desperately iU, before
I returned from Scotland.
Mr. Smith is brought hither to exert the mysterious
healing powers which Mr. Oliphant firmly believes him to
possess, but to which he makes no claim.
28. Dined with Lord Denbigh at the Salisbury Club,
meeting William Feilding, whom I have seen very rarely
since he was a young man, but who is now on the eve of
becoming a Lieut.-General, and Dr. Baynard Klein, who
had much to say that interested me about the attitude of
the Holy See towards Ireland.
He mentioned incidentally that he had once heard an
Englishwoman say to an American, who had been recount
ing his travels : " WeU, well, a rolling stone gathers no
moss." "Ah! but it becomes so polished as it rolls!"
was the reply.
Something led to a talk about oratorical blunders, and
I cited the case, mentioned in a previous page, of the M.P.,

1 88 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
whom I heard say, " Depend upon it, Mr. Speaker, the
white face of the British soldier is the backbone of your
Indian army."
"That reminds me," said Dr. Klein, "of the French
General who exclaimed : ' Citoyens I Ce sabre est le
plus beau jour de ma vie ! ' "
29. To see Kinglake, who told me that in the middle
of the war with Russia a proposal had been made at
Constantinople to erect a building for Midhat's Parlia
ment, which had not yet vanished into space. " I should
have said," remarked a speaker — Kinglake thought from
Asia Minor — " that under present circumstances the proper
meeting place for a Turkish Parliament would be a
tent ! "
30. Finished, this morning, Morley's Diderot. Nothing
interested me more in the book than the sketch in vol. ii.
page 137, of the Princess GaHtzin, always to me a peculiarly
attractive figure, and in vol. i. the following passage : —
" If this guiding idea of the unity of the intellectual history of
man, and the organic integrity of thought, had happily come
into Diderot's mind, we should have had an Encyclopaedia
indeed ; a survey and representation of all the questions and
answers of the world, such as would in itself have suggested
what questions are best worth putting, and at the same time
have furnished its own answers. For this the moment was not
yet. An urgent social task lay before France and before Europe ;
it could not be postponed until the thinkers had worked out a

1888] MORLEY'S "DIDEROT" 1S9
scheme of philosophic completeness. The thinkers did not
seriously make any effort after this completeness. The Encyclo
paedia was the most serious attempt, and it did not wholly fail.
As I replace in my shelves this mountain of volumes, ' dusky
and huge, enlarging on the sight,' I have a presentiment that
their pages will seldom again be disturbed by me or by others.
They served a great purpose a hundred years ago. They are
now a monumental ruin, clothed with all the profuse associations
of history.
" It is no Ozymandias of Egypt, King of Kings, whose
wrecked shape of stone and sterjle memories we contemplate.
We think rather of the grey and crumbling walls of an ancient
stronghold, reared by the endeavour of stout hands and faithful,
whence in its own day and generation a band once went forth
against barbarous hordes to strike a blow for humanity."
Miss Arnold sent recently from Fox How to Mrs. Arnold
at Cobham a letter of mine in which I had mentioned Mrs.
Craven's admiration for some Hnes from Obermann Once
More, and had added an expression of regret that their
author had not written on Alexandrine de la Ferronays as
he had done on Eugdnie de Guerin. In a letter received
to-day from Mrs. Arnold, she tells me that she had always
urged her husband to do so, and promised to show me an
entry in his diary which proved that he had intended to
write about the Recit dune Sxur in the course of this very
year. A gentleman told my wife one of these days a good
story against himself He was present at the interment
of some of the victims of the Commune, and said to

190 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
a bystander : " Est ce que ces gens - la etaient des
traiteurs ? " ^

Decem.ber
3. We returned to York House from Seacox Heath,
where there was a pleasant party, including M. Wadding
ton the French ambassador. Sir Charles Bowen, the
Lubbocks, and Mrs. Green, of whose Henry II. I hear
much praise.
Something having been said after dinner on the 1st
about the Roman Empire in general and Tiberius in
particular, M. Waddington told us that his impression
was that while great cruelties were committed by that
Prince amongst the Senatorial class and at the centre of
affairs, the Provinces were severely but well governed by
him, and enjoyed a very large amount of prosperity. M.
Waddington added that he thought the summing up of
Tiberius's character in the last chapter of the sixth book
of the Annals of Tacitus was pretty near the truth.
Bowen mentioned at breakfast yesterday that a barrister
of his acquaintance met in Switzerland an American of
the ultra-patriotic kind, who assured him that the King
of Italy had sent across the Atlantic to engage the
^ The same mistake is said to have been made by Sir Archibald
Alison, the historian.

1888] DISRAELI ON ROEBUCK 191
services of a leading doctor in the United States. "To
cure the eruption of Vesuvius, I suppose," observed the
Englishman. The American was so much pleased that he said : " If
you will stay a day or two in this hotel, 1 will pay for
you." I did not know that Dr. Stubbs, the new Bishop of
Chester, was as witty as he is learned, but Bowen declares
that when some fooHsh person said to him, "It comes,
then, to this, the only distinction that I can see be
tween a man and an ape is that the man can speak and
the ape can't," he was ready with the rejoinder, "Don't
you think, perhaps, that there is also this distinction, that
the man knows when to hold his tongue and the ape
doesn't?" At the hour of afternoon tea yesterday we had a brisk
exchange of good stories. I note one or two which were
new to me.
It is to Goschen that I owe a saying of Disraeli's in
the House of Commons about Roebuck, which I do not
think I have heard. The latter had complained that
Disraeli had left his camp, whereupon the ex-Radical
observed, " I did not know that the honourable gentleman
had a camp; I thought that he was the solitary sentinel
of a deserted fortress."
I wonder if I have anywhere noted Lord Beaconsfield's

192 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
reply to Aberdare, when the latter, meeting him as he
came out of the Upper House soon after he became an
Earl, asked him how he liked the place. " Oh ! " he
said, "I feel that I am dead, but in the Elysian fields."
Goschen mentioned that, at a dinner at the Trinity
House, years before the pubUcation of Endymion, DisraeH
had told him that Bismarck, when in England, had said
that he was going back to Berlin to give his countrymen
not a constitution but a country. The turn of the
phrase was so Disraelian that Goschen long afterwards
asked Bismarck whether he had really used it. He
admitted that he had.
The conversation strayed to the absence of anything
like fun from the speeches of the present Irish Members
or their predecessors for some time back. Lubbock
thought there was a slight exception in the case of an
orator who, contrasting unfavourably Irish with Scotch
whisky, said that the latter was so fiery that it went
down your throat "like a torchlight procession."
Waddington told us that many more appointments are
made after consulting the Cabinet in France than here.
All Bishops, for example, are thus appointed; all Am
bassadors, though not Ministers Plenipotentiary, and all
Divisional Commanders.
Waddington mentioned also a fact which did not sur
prise me, but which would, I think, startle many people,

i888] EAST ROUMELIA 193
viz. that Guizot, when Minister, used carefully to read
the debates in the Cortes, thinking them the best in
Europe. He said, too, that the name of East RoumeHa
had turned up for the first time in a conversation
between Lord Beaconsfield and himself He had been
urging that the portion of the Balkan regions left to
Turkey should not be called Southern Bulgaria, and it
was to turn that difficulty that the English Minister
suggested the not very happy phrase. East RoumeHa.
We had a very cheerful drive to the station this
morning. In the course of it Mrs. Green mentioned
 's astounding superstition about the mandrake root,
alluded to on a previous page, and said that the nearest
corresponding English superstition was that which attributes
great power in the curing of rheumatism to the carrying
in the pocket of a potato^ — but a potato fairly come by
does no good ; it must be a stolen potato.
Dined with the Literary Society, Coleridge in the chair,
Lecky, George Denman, Sir Theodore Martin, Professor
Flower, and Augustine Birrell were among those present.
Lord Cranbrook, who was on my right, quoted the
saying of some one, that if you want to know French
law you should read Gaboriau's novels, of which he
spoke highly,
I remarked that his acquaintance with them disproved
the absurd story to which a London newspaper recently
VOL. II. N

194 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
gave currency, that he never read a novel, a story which
he thought it necessary to contradict publicly. He believes
that the origin of the strange assertion must have been
the fact that the place where he lived had once belonged
to a man who had a fanatical dislike to novels, and would
not allow one to be brought into his house.
On my left was Canon Liddon, with whom I had
more conversation than ever before. Amongst other
things we spoke of Dollinger, whom he has lately seen,
and who, although I think in his ninetieth year, can still
walk well. We talked a good deal of Liddon's eastern
tour. He had been more fortunate than I in picking
up curious coins. I asked him which side he took in
the Capernaum Controversy. He said he thought TeU
Hflm was the place, and observed, very justly I think,
that the raison ditre of a village at Nazareth was the
fine spring of water there.
Coleridge told us that when Constance Kent was to
be tried for murder, he was engaged for the defence.
The circumstances of the case made it probable that the
question would have to be raised — how far the con
fidences made to an Anglican priest in the Confessional
were privileged. The turn things took made it unneces
sary to decide this question; but Willes, who was the
judge who presided at the trial, afterwards told Coleridge
that he had considered the matter, and was prepared to

i888] WINDSOR 195
rule that a priest could not be compelled to disclose the
facts which had been communicated to him, on the
ground that absolution was a judicial proceeding, and
that a judicial authority could not be questioned as to
the grounds of his decision.
5. I went over yesterday to Windsor by an afternoon
train, and had a long conversation with the Empress
Frederick about all the sad things which have occurred
since July 1887. Later, I dined with the Queen, and
returned to York House to-day, after attending the morning
service at St. George's, where I had not been for many years.
7. Dr. Klein came down to York House last night to
dine and sleep. He is much interested in shells, and this
morning looked through most of our possessions in that
kind, which are more considerable than I was aware of.
I unpacked for the first time since I left India the small
Madras collection, which is carefully named, and glanced
also through those, chiefly, I believe, from Ceylon, which
were sent to my wife by Sir Frederick Richards; a large
cabinet which had belonged to my mother-in-law, and
some smaller hoards.
8. Drove to Cobham to see Mrs. Arnold and her
daughter. I walked round the garden with the former,
seeing the Golden Holly mentioned in one of her husband's
letters to me,^ and a great many shrubs planted by him-
^ See these Notes for 15th January 1886,

196 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
self, as well as the graves of Geist and Kaiser. The former
has a little headstone at the end of its bank of turf, on
which the years 1876 and 1880 are still clearly legible, but
the months and days are already blurred, though the
memory of the poor dog will live, with that of Lesbia's
sparrow, through many generations of men. Inside the
house I saw the room in which Mat Arnold used to work.
Donna, the successor of " great Atossa," is like her more
famous predecessor in personal appearance, but inferior
in strength of character as much as she is superior in
amiability of temper. She lives on " almost touchingly
good terms " with Max, the last of the famous trio of
Dachshunds. I saw also the note-books mentioned by Mrs. Arnold
in a recent letter to me.
They are small diaries, long and narrow. Sunday comes
at the top of each page, and in the spaces devoted to that
day, as at the beginning and end of the volumes. Mat
Arnold was in the habit of copying short passages which
struck him in the authors he happened to be reading.
In the blank space belonging to Sunday, AprU 15th, he
had entered the words from Ecclesiasticus : " Weep
bitterly over the dead as he is worthy, and then comfort
thyself, drive heaviness away, thou shall not do him good,
but hurt thyself" On the opposite page stood, of course,
Sunday, AprU 22nd. Under it he had entered: "When

i888] M. ARNOLD 197
the dead is at rest, let his remembrance rest, and be com
forted for him when his spirit is departed from him." —
Ecclesiasticus xxxviii. It was on the first of these days
that he died. I have seldom met with so strange a
coincidence. Many of the short passages quoted from English,
French, German, Latin, Greek and Italian, seem to me
of the greatest interest. One which recurred more than
once was "Ecce labora et noli contristari" — words very
characteristic of M. Arnold's way of thinking and acting.
In these same volumes, at the beginning of each year,
he noted what he meant to read in the course of it, and
as he finished each work he drew a line through it, carry
ing on to the next year the books which he had not
managed to read. In spite of his constant official work,
he got through a most surprising amount of study. The
Bible, with the classics, had a very large share of his time.
The last book he read — in bed the night before he
died — was the sixth volume of George Sand's letters.
If I remember right, he had got up to page 272, beyond
which the book was not cut.
He pursued a simUar plan with the things he meant
to write. At the beginning of 1888 he made six entries.
The first three were stroked through as having, I suppose,
been accomplished; the last three entries were Shelley's
poetry, Vauvenargues, Rkit d'une Sceur.

198 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
Mrs. Arnold showed me the copy of Bishop WUson's
Sacra Privata, which had been given to her husband by
his godfather, Mr. Keble, and his daughter showed me
the less known Maxims of Bishop Wilson, which had
been given in 1819 by Dr. Arnold to Miss Penrose,
whom he afterwards married.
Both these books had, I understood, been transferred
to Mrs. Arnold and Miss Arnold respectively the night
before the last fatal journey to Liverpool.
Mrs. Craven writes of Ferdinand II. of Naples : —
" My opinion is, that he was a very clever man, with a clear
perception of the Revolution that was at hand, though not
the genius that would have been needed to avert it. I think
his feeling was exactly that expressed by Montlosier : ' Les
temps ne sont pas difficiles, ils sont impossibles.' And, as
far as he was concerned, I think he was quite right."
12. I went to-day to the Natural History Museum
with Mr. Thurston (see the Indian portion of these
Notes) to inspect a large number of corals which he
has brought from Paumben and elsewhere. They are
very fine specimens, but up to this time he has not
found anything new to science.
From the Museum I went on to Westminster Abbey
to keep an appointment with the Dean, Lyall, and Lord
Cross, about Maine's Monument. Mr. Boehm, who was
there, declared most decidedly against the site mentioned
on an earlier page, and after a good deal of discussion it

IS LIFE WORTH LIVING? 199
was settled that the medallion should be placed on the
same huge screen to which is affixed the monument of
Warren Hastings, straight above the bust of Cobden, who,
by some strange accident, has been put in close proximity
to various persons who made their, fame in that India
of which he, who knew so much, knew so curiously little.
14. I have had the greater part of Principal Shairp
and his Friends read aloud without finding very much
that was quite new to me, thanks to what I have heard
from Coleridge, Boyle, Stanley, and others; but I have
received much pleasure from many glimpses into the
lives of old friends or acquaintances.
At page 302 there are some striking lines on Norman
Macleod, who produced so strong an impression upon
many who came across him. I never saw him but once,
and then only for a moment, when I was introduced to
him in, I think, Union Street, Aberdeen.
At page 338 there are two remarkable lines quoted
from an unsuccessful poem written for the Newdigate
prize : — " Is life worth living? Yes, if truth be true.
Life is worth living ; death worth dying too."
The following four verses about Clough seem to me
fine, and very near the truth : —
" Lochaber, Moidart, Morar, stern delight
From these he drank, his soul new power received

200 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
Stood wrapt, where the Atlantic's swinging might
O'er Ardnamurchan heaved.
Ah ! had he walked aloof in that cool air
Braced all his boyhood time, till heart and brain
Were fully tempered, and annealed to bear
Life at its tensest strain.
Too soon, too soon, the place of early trust
Constrained to leave, down thought's strong current whirled.
And face to face alone too rudely thrust
With problem of the world.
And voices then, the loudest England knew.
In his distracted ear were thundering, some
' Push boldly forward,' some — ' lo, there the haven true,"
' Here rest or be undone.' "
The intellectual atmosphere of Arnoldine Rugby was
too stimulating for him. I wonder if I have ever noted
that Stanley said to me when we met at Balmacarra, in
1856: "I have never been so struck with a man, as I
was with Clough as a boy."
16. Mrs. Craven writes : —
" I cannot say how touched I was by that note of Mrs M.
Arnold's, and I have no words to say how grateful I am to you
for letting me read that and the letter you had sent before.
There are people with whom I feel in such deep sympathy, in
spite of the greatest separation that can divide minds and souls
appearing to lie between us I Your dear friend was one of
those — probably the writer of this letter also if I knew more of
her. " There is an invisible bridge somewhere which helps one to
cross large distances, and is not always there when you have
smaller ones to span."

1 888] WELLS CATHEDRAL 201
20. Returned to York House, which I left on the
morning of the 17 th for Wells, where I spent a couple
of hours in and near the Cathedral, which, when taken
in connection with the group of buildings around it,
undoubtedly deserves a very high place amongst EngUsh
ecclesiastical edifices. The best view which I saw of the
Cathedral itself was from Brown's gate, at the far end
of the Green, and sufficiently distant to prevent the
slender slate-pencil-like pillars of the West front being
too prominent. That front is, I see, wider than those
of either Amiens or Notre Dame, which belong to about
the same age.
The view of the interior, looking towards the Altar
from the extremity of the Nave is not agreeable, thanks
to the works by which it was thought necessary to
support the great central tower. It is not till these are
left behind, and we enter the Choir, that the interior
becomes pleasing, but the Lady Chapel, which belongs
to a later period than most of the rest of the buUding,
and is not Early English, but Decorated, is very attractive.
A modern window at its East end contains some stained
glass of a peculiar and exceedingly beautiful blue.
I went, as in duty bound, to see the tomb of the
worthy though eccentric old Master of BaUiol, Richard
Jenkyns, who was Dean of Wells. He died in 1854.
The long staircase which leads up from the Cathedral,

202 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
leaving the Chapter House upon its right, is a striking
feature, and looks not wholly unlike some portion of
the roads we traversed in Palestine, notably one bit
between the Jordan Valley and Nabliis.
From Wells I passed via Glastonbury, to stay with
Mrs. Bagehot, near Langport.
Mrs. Greg repeated to me a happy saying of Walter
Bagehot's about Female Suffrage : " Why give woman
two votes? She has one already;" and another of her
husband's, to the effect that our acquaintance was divided
between Springs and Wells; which is profoundly true, if
we remember that the latter may be without water.
From Herds Hill I went to Salisbury, where I spent
some twenty-four hours with the Dean. We talked of
Mat Arnold, and my host called my attention to the
passage in Dr. Arnold's journal, written the day before
he died, in which he observed that he could "nearly
say 'Vixi'!"
A letter from Sir Augustus Paget announces Arthur's
arrival at his Embassy in Vienna, for which place he
left York House on the i8th.
27. The sun rises at this season exactly opposite our
bedroom windows, and my wife called my attention this
morning to the extraordinary beauty of the grey lights on
the river.
I finished looking again through the Memoires d'un

1888] M. DE FALLOUX 203
Royaliste, by M. de Falloux, which I have lately had
read to me. They are very interesting, and throw much
light on many passages of contemporary history about
which I was imperfectly informed. I have noted fifty
things in them of much greater importance, but shall
only mention two here.
The first shall be Malesherbes' reply to TreUhard, at
page 180 of vol. i., in one of the Salles d'Attente of the
Convention. The defender of the King continuing to
use when speaking of him the words Sire and Majesty,
TreUhard said : —
" Qui vous rend si ose de prononcer ici des titres proscrits ? "
" Mepris de vous et de la vie,"
was the answer.
The second occurs at page 64 of the same volume.
General Clouet, in hiding on account of his share in
the abortive rising of 1832, disclosed his secret to a
young labourer, who had told the General that he
was unable to marry, on account of want of means,
advising him to claim the reward offered for the arrest
of a rebel : —
" Le jeune gargon s'appuyant sur sa bfeche et le regardant
fixement lui rdpondit : — Dame, Monsieur, on est plus long temps
couche que debout, et je ne donnerais pas ma part de paradis
pour la plus grosse fortune de ce monde."
The interest of this is that the young Breton, who had

204 NOTES FROM A DIARY [December
certainly not read Sophocles, was translating as nearly
as possible the famous words of Antigone.^
Oliphant's long Ulness ended, as it only could end,
on the 23rd, and he was buried in the Twickenham
Cemetery to-day.
I was prevented attending the funeral of my old friend
and his connection. Sir Frederick Pollock, so often
mentioned in these Notes, by its having been fixed for
the same hour at Kensal Green.
Thus passed away a very agreeable and very interesting
man, who might, if his mind had been cast all in one piece,
have produced a notable effect upon his generation. It
was not so, however. You constantly stepped, so to speak,
when with him, off perfectly solid ground into mere chaos.
One moment he would be speaking like a statesman,
and the next like a half-educated enthusiast, giving his
time and his thoughts to a succession of crazes. In pace
requiescat I No one who saw much of him could avoid
feeling his charm, however frequently he might smUe at
his strange fancies.
Note. — Many of the most attractive features in Ofiphant's
character came, so to speak, out of the haze of his philosophical
or religious dreams as the end approached. My wife, who had
for many years been in the habit of talking with him upon the
mysterious subjects to which he gave so much attention, and
who spent by his bedside a great deal of time during the whole
^ Antigone, hnes 74, 75.

1 888] LAWRENCE OLIPHANT 205
of his last illness, wrote, a few months later, an article about
him in the Contemporary Review, the last few sentences of
which I may cite. After quoting from a character of our friend
by Sir Thomas Wade, very eulogistic in tone, she goes on to
say : —
' ' To the above testimony, which will be widely corroborated, I may
add that one of his most remarkable qualities was his power of moral
stimulus. It was impossible to associate with him without feeUng every
higher inspiration quickened, without longing to infuse his intense
spiritual vitality into the lines of one's own life. His religious feelings
were of that exalted kind which rise above all human forms, and in
which the truly religious of all ages and sects have seen their external
differences melt away. They sustained him through the last weeks of
his trying illness, and made his death-bed to those who stood by, a
beautiful experience rather than a great sorrow.
" ' Seeing death has no part in him any more, no power
Upon his head,
He has bought his eternity with a little hour,
And is not dead.
" ' For an hour, if ye look for him, he is no more found —
For one hour's space ;
Then ye lift up your eyes to him and behold him crowned,
A deathless face.'"

APPENDIX

APPENDIX
Inaugural Address read at the opening of the Session
of the Philosophical Institution, in Edinburgh,
for 1888-9, on 5th November 1888.
One evening during the last London season I found myself
seated at dinner next to a well-known Anglo-Asiatic statesman,
and our talk turned upon the speeches which Mr, Bright used
to deliver more than thirty years ago against the Great
Company. " He made," said my friend, " many mistakes, but he had got
hold of the two cardinal facts of our position in the East.
First, that there is no such country as India ; and secondly,
that the Indians as a people do not exist."
It is to a very small portion of the country, to which the
often misleading, but unavoidable, expression "India" is usually
applied, that I desire to direct your attention to-night. It is to
the region officially known as Fort St. George and its depend
encies ; in other words, to the Presidency of Madras, of the
government of which I took charge exactly seven years ago
this day, and in charge of which I remained for something more
than five years.
I suppose I am perfectly safe in assuming that every one in
this assembly, including as it does the dlite of this highly
VOL. II. O 209

2IO NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
educated capital, has a general notion where Madras is ;
though 1 hasten to observe that this is a piece of knowledge not
universally possessed, even by very highly placed and dis
tinguished personages ; for it is not so very long ago that a
man, deservedly high in the estimation of his Sovereign, not
I am afraid on account of his knowledge of geography, and
representing that Sovereign in a very great country, asked me
whether Madras was "near the Cape of Good Hope;" and
whether the two places were " connected by railway,''
You, Ladies and Gentlemen, know better. You see in your
mind's eye the Madras Presidency stretching for many and
many hundred miles along the eastern coast of the peninsula
which runs south towards Ceylon, not in actual possession of its
very southern extremity, Cape Comorin, which belongs to the
small native state of Travancore, but crossing the peninsula
further north from sea to sea, and running for a very long way,
though not nearly so far as on its eastern side, towards the
north. Its shape is extremely irregular, and if I were to give you any
idea of it I should burden your memories with a great many
difficult names which would bring you small profit.
I may, however, bring home to you its size by telling you
that it is larger than the United Kingdom by about two-thirds
of Scotland ; and that its population is smaller than that of the
United Kingdom by nearly the population of Scotland.
From these facts you will carry away the impression that it is
a very large country, as well as a very thickly populated one ;
and that impression wUl be just. Pray note that whenever I
give vou figures bearing on questions of population, I give you
those of the last census, seven years ago.
Well then, by what kind of people is this province inhabited ?
Are they black ?

i888] APPENDIX 21 1
By no means.
Are they on the other hand like the people about whom you
read so much in authors like my friend Professor Max Miiller —
the people who composed the Vedas, the people of your own
race, people speaking tongues remotely akin to Greek, to Latin,
to German, to your own ?
My answer is, "very few indeed of them." The immense
majority of the people who live in the Madras Presidency are
not Aryans at all, but Dravidians, a race which inhabited these
countries before our ancestors and the ancestors of the men
who expressed their thoughts in the great language which they
called Sanskrit, or the Perfected, separated, the one to go to the
East, the other to go to the West.
People often ask me if all the inhabitants of the Madras
Presidency speak Hindustani ? My reply is, that Hindustani in
Madras is only the language of a few hundred thousand people,
of the immigrant as distinguished from the indigenous Mahom
medans. The two great languages of the Madras Presidency,
each spoken by about 12,000,000 people, are Telugu and Tamil,
both Dravidian tongues — the one spoken in the North, the
other in the South of the Presidency ; but there are a great
many other languages spoken in different parts of the country,
some of them by very large numbers of persons.
Under 36,000 people out of 31,000,000 claim English as their
mother-tongue ; but so long a time has passed since we first
became connected with Southern India, and so firmly has our
influence got established there, that there alone has English
become the lingua franca.
In Northern India where the lingua franca is Hindustani, the
fact of a servant speaking English is against him. In Southern
India his not speaking English would be a fatal objection to his
getting the best employment.

212 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
The next question which you will probably wish me to
answer about these people is— What is their religion? To that
I reply, that the immense majority are Plindus, of one kind or
another. I suppose that twenty-eight and a half millions are
Hindus, but Hinduism is the most accommodating of rehgions.
You may think of it, if you please, as of a vast Cathedral with
hundreds and hundreds of chapels, each one dedicated to some
particular Saint or Manifestation of the All-underlying Divinity.
Next to the Hindus, but at an enormous distance in point
of numbers, come the Mahommedans, of whom there are nearly
2,000,000; and then come the Christians, far more numerous
in Southern India than in the North Among the Christians
68 per cent, are Catholics, and 32 per cent. Protestants.
Among the Protestants the AngUcans are the most numerous,
and in one district (Tinnivelly) they have a large number of
native converts.
Both Christianity and Mahommedanism have been gaining
of late years, chiefly amongst the ower castes, for the very
good reason that those who join either of these two great
religions escape from a very disagreeable social position, and
rise to a more respectable place in the world.
Now in what sort of a country do these people live ?
In the first place, I need hardly remind you that it is always,
or almost always, extremely hot, except of course in the high
mountain ranges. In Northern India there is a cold season,
which some people like. In the Southern part of the Peninsula
there is nothing of the sort. At Trichinopoly they say, and
with much truth, that the hot weather ends on the 31st
December and begins on the ist January,
In the next place, there is an enormous seaboard. Madras
is the maritime province /ar excellence.
In the third place, the West Coast is usually damp ; the

1 888] APPENDIX 213
East Coast usually dry. The latter gets most of its rain in
October, November and December ; the former gets most of
its rain in June, July and August ; while there is an unlucky
region in the North centre which lies somewhat beyond the
influence of either summer or winter rainfall, unless when they
are very heavy, and forms what is known as the "famine
zone," that is the zone in which famine is a chronic subject of
anxiety. Thank God, I had not to deal with one of these dreadful
visitations, but there was one a decade ago, and we were
obliged to take every precaution to be ready in case such
another calamity burst upon the land.
The famine code of the Madras Presidency, which lays
down what everybody has to do in case of famine invasion,
drawn up in great part by Mr. Webster, long Chief Secretary
to the Madras Government, has formed the model for other
codes of the same kind, which are ready to be applied in other
parts of India, should ever the grim necessity again arise. And
arise it probably will, for in spite of most laborious investiga
tions, the causes of those tremendous meteorological con
vulsions which dislocate the seasons in this part of the tropics
are still most imperfectly understood ; while it is to be feared
that even when we thoroughly understand them, we shall not
have the slightest influence over their course. We have done,
and are doing, an immense deal to enable us to fight the battle
with the agencies that bring about -famine, but when Man
has to fight with Nature, the struggle will always be a fierce
one. The very goodness of our Government has a tendency to
increase the danger of famine. We have given peace to the
land, and we have to some extent diminished the ravages of
disease. The result of that is, in a country where every one

214 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
marries in boyhood and girlhood, that the pressure of popu
lation on the means of subsistence is always terrific. You
may increase, and you are vastly increasing year by year the
prosperity of the immense majority of the people. That
wise government can do, but it cannot do as much for the
residuum, which but for unwise social and religious beliefs would
never come into existence. It beats the wit of man to do that,
and I am afraid that as long as you have an Eastern Empire,
an orator who desires to blame the powers that be will be
always able to say with perfect truth that a good many of the
people over whom they rule are underfed.
If you wish to have a fair idea of the condition of the
average Indian peasant — I am not speaking of the residuum —
put the following questions to any dozen fair-minded English
men or Scotchmen whom you know : —
With what parts of Great Britain are you acquainted ?
With what parts of our Indian Empire are you acquainted ?
Where do you think the greatest number of the people of the
peasant class lead the pleasantest lives — in the British districts
you know, or in the Indian districts you know ?
The answer will generally be " In the Indian districts.''
You will never again have as great a loss as you had in
Southern India a decade ago. That, though the exertions it
has required, and will require, are gigantic, is within your
strength, or rather is coming within your strength. We are
working towards it ; but anything like a full solution of the
problem of the imperfectly fed residuum is beyond you, until
you can call to your assistance great spaces of time, and the
slow changes which they may bring even to the marriage
customs of intensely Conservative races.
Something may no doubt be done to relieve the pressure on
the means of subsistence by migration and emigration. Every

i888] APPENDIX 215
facility is given for these by the Madras, as well as by the other
Indian Administrations ; but although we have in certain
districts, as for instance in the splendid deltaic regions of
Tanjore, quite an astounding number of people to the square
mile, the results produced are as yet not very great. Our
people dislike moving, and even those who go away in time of
famine soon return. Excluding mere visitors from neighbouring
districts, perhaps about ninety-nine per cent, of the population
lives and dies where it is born. I hope that the spread of
enlightenment may diminish this home-keeping tendency.
The hill-tracts of Vizagapatam and other northern Madras
districts will, when we understand better how to fight against
fever, be an excellent field for migration : while emigration to
those British Settlements where the watchful care of the
Colonial Office makes the lot of the labourer a happy one,
seems a thing much to be encouraged.
I found the Presidency divided into twenty-one districts, and
left it divided into twenty-two. I would have divided it into
a great many more, perhaps twice the number, had money
been forthcoming, for our Madras districts are exceptionally
large. You all know the geography of Palestine. It may give
you then a good notion of the size of an average Madras
district if I tell you that it is just a little smaller than the
whole of Palestine west of the Jordan from Dan to Beersheba.
Very few of these districts are uniform in character ; they
almost all contain great contrasts of scenery, climate and
vegetation. The lot of the Madras civilian seems to me much happier
than that of his brother which is cast in some of the large and
dreary plains further north. He is very seldom out of the
sight of mountains, and there are few districts which do not
contain some elevated spot where a little coolness may be

2i6 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
snatched in the most trying season of the year without any
relaxation of supervision over the district affairs.
In addition to the twenty-two districts directly under the
Madras Government, there are certain territories directly ruled
by Native Princes, over which its influence extends. Of these
the most important are Travancore and Cochin.
Travancore is a sort of Paradise in the extreme south-west
of the Peninsula, ruled by a Prince whose family is of immense
antiquity, and who is one of the twelve who rank highest in
the Golden Book of our Eastern Empire. I never saw the
present Maharajah, who succeeded shortly before I came away ;
but I knew well his predecessor, a gifted and highly-educated
man, as you will see from the extract which I am going to read
to you from his private diary. I know I am doing what would
have given him pleasure, because some time before he died he
asked me to take the manuscript home and to have such
portions of it published as I thought might interest my country
men, I should have had no objection to do this, but the
matter fell through after his lamented death. He vsrote : —
" While amidst the awfiil sublimity of these great mountain
ranges, increased tenfold by the great storm and mist, came
the following telegram : — ' French Emperor and whole army
surrendered prisoners. King Prussia appoints residence,' Can
there be a fitter place and time than those in which I was to
receive intelligence of the fate of a Napoleon? The same
hand which reared up these majestic mountains and commands
these fearful storms, disposes of the destinies of Napoleons and
Caesars. Louis Napoleon's travestying of his uncle's career
has been but too close. His coup ddtat has been at last
deservedly rewarded."
Travancore is a very interesting as well as a very lovely
country, full of strange and instructive usages. Here is one

i888] APPENDIX 217
which goes back to the most hoar antiquity, and which prevails
to this day, in a vast number of families : — When the head of
a house dies, leaving a son, that son does not succeed to his
father ; for example, the present ruler of the State is not the
lawfully-born son of the Maharajah of whom I have been
speaking, but the son of one of his adopted sisters. That
seems to us very odd indeed, but it is perfectly in accordance
with law and usage.
They tell a story, true or false, that some considerable time
ago, long before I was in India, a great personage in Travan
core, who was very fond of French jujubes and bonbons, saw
in a newspaper that a large consignment of jupons had arrived
in Madras. He immediately ordered the whole consignment,
with the result that he became possessed of a large number of
steel crinolines ! I mentioned this fact to a correspondent in
this country, who wrote back to say : " Of course, what he did,
was to add largely to the number of his ladies." " Oh, dear
no ! " I replied ; " in that happy land it is the lady who is the
great personage. When she is tired of her husband she returns
to him in the most amiable manner the cloth, otherwise dress,
which he presented to her when they formed the nuptial tie, and
everything returns to the state which existed before that event,"
The only other native State whose affairs are under the
general superintendence of the Madras Government which
I need mention is Cochin, a delightful, well-ordered little
country, through which it is a real pleasure to travel.
There is a great deal to be said about it, but the necessities
of time oblige me to content myself with two facts : It
contains a good many Jews, who have been there for ages upon
ages. How long no mortal can accurately say, but they have
a deed of immense antiquity, which may be — say, 1200 years
old.

2i8 , NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
Cochin, as well as Travancore and some of our own
immediate territory hard by, contains also a population in
which I took the deepest interest. These are the so-called
Christians of St, Thomas, They think they have been there
ever since the days of the Apostle, It is hopelessly impossible
to prove this to be true, but it seems to me equally impossible
absolutely to disprove it. They are divided into a variety of
different sects, hating each other, I fear, rather heartily. But
I must not dwell longer upon a subject which might well
deserve an hour to itself
Having cast just a glance at these outlying countries, we will
now, if you please, turn back to the Madras districts proper,
which, as you will remember, I said were each on an average
nearly as big as Western Palestine.
If I were writing a treatise upon Madras, it would be my duty
at this point to explain how the Presidency of Fort St. George
and its Dependencies are governed, to set forth the functions
of the Governor, the Executive Council, the Legislative Council,
the character and distribution of the Array, the organisation
of the Courts of Justice, the Constitution of the various
Secretariats, the distinction between Imperial and Provincial
finance, to enumerate the various classes of Public Works,
to discuss the Salt Tax and the Excise and the Land Revenue
— to set forth in fact the whole framework of government.
It is obvious, however, that no human being could do this
in an hour ; and even if he could, such knowledge is best
communicated not through the ear but through the eye.
In addition to this, information about these matters is easily
accessible : they change little, and as I must make a choice of
subjects, I think I had better confine ^myself to matters about
which I can give information not easy to be found, or not to be
found at all, in books.

APPENDIX 219
The main argument in favour of restricting to a few years the
tenure of office by Indian Governors is that in this way a fresh
mind is brought very frequently to consider the affairs of our
great Dependency. No man of average common-sense who
finds himself at the head of so vast and complicated a machine
as is an Indian Government, will rashly make large changes in
it, but from the first he will probably endeavour to become as
well acquainted as he can with the wants of the country, and be
unresting in his endeavours here, there, and everywhere, to
improve things just a little. It is almost safe to say that if,
without manifest necessity, he connects his name with large
schemes of policy or startling innovations, he is a bad Governor.
Such at least was and is my way of looking at the matter ;
and accordingly after I had become acquainted with the
ordinary routine of administration, and got to know those
officials with whom I was brought into immediate contact at
the capital, I determined to begin a series of tours with a view
to see and hear for myself what the best and most intelligent
portion of the native community was asking from its rulers, and
what manner of men we had looking after native interests up
and down the land.
Before leaving England I had promised myself to make the
survey of the Presidency within the first half of the five years
which would elapse between my reaching and leaving Madras.
I succeeded in effecting my object in just under two years.
During the course of eight tours of inspection I travelled 174
days and went over some 9,000 miles. During these tours I
had of course endless conversations with the officials who are
at the head of each district — are in fact the local British
Providence ; as well as with numberless other persons from
Native Princes downwards.
I received also eighty-eight addresses, some of them

220 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
extremely well-written, in which the authorised exponents of
this or that section of native opinion put before me what they
most desired me to know about their wants and wishes.
At the end of each of the eight tours I summed up my
impressions in a confidential minute addressed to the two Civil
members and the Military member who formed the Council of
the Governor, adding to the same all the addresses I had
received, and all the answers I had made to these addresses.
Of course, in many cases I was obliged to tell those who came
to see me that I could give no immediate answer to the some
times very large and even startling proposals which they made
for the inauguration of great Public Works and the like ; but
every one of the confidential minutes I have alluded to was
referred to the various departments of Government to consider
and report to me thereon. Not one single request made by the
people, not one suggestion that seemed to me in any way
plausible, was thus lost sight of, but was considered by men of
the most ripe experience and widest knowledge of the particu
lar subject to which it referred. Their views were all duly
recorded in official documents, but it is not enough for any one
at the head of an Indian, or any other. Government to see that
attention is given to reasonable suggestions and requests coming
from persons who have a right to speak. He must revise and
re-revise with a view to see that all reasonable requests are
granted, and all good suggestions carried into effect.
Some months, accordingly, after the last of my eight
tours was finished, and when the suggestions made in the
course of it had been reported on by the proper authorities,
I proceeded to review in a very long paper the whole of the
eight tours, and to explain how matters stood with reference
to every one of the requests and suggestions which had been
made to me. This paper I had published in a volume at the

i888] APPENDIX 221
end of my third year, and had it widely circulated in order
that the people might know what could and what could not be
done with reference to all the wishes which they had
expressed. The documents drawn up at the end of each of
the eight tours being intended merely to initiate official
action and recording only first impressions, could not with
propriety be made public. The purpose of the document
which I drew up at the end of my third year was entirely
different. It was intended, as I said therein : " First, to
show all who have addressed me that each of the wishes of
those whom they represented has formed the subject of the
most anxious individual attention on my part ; secondly, to
show to them that the Government over which I have the
honour to preside has done all that it could to bring the
wishes of the people laid before them through me, to rapid
and full fruition ; thirdly, to bring the circumstances of the
Madras Presidency more distinctly than they ever have been
brought hitherto before the eyes of the Government of
India, and of the supreme authorities at home ; fourthly, for the
information of any one within or without its limits, who, for
whatever reason, chances to feel an interest in the affairs of this
corner of the British Empire."
I found that what the respectable portion of the community
was really caring about was chiefly the improvement of their
material condition. With the machinery of government
they were well enough satisfied ; but they wished, and most
wisely wished, that everything that could be done should be
done to make that machinery turn out the greatest amount of
good to them.
In taking leave of the people of South Canara at the end
of my eighth tour of inspection, I said : " I defy contradiction
when I say that these addresses are as a whole most creditable

222 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
to the good sense of the people ; and as long as I remain here
it will be my constant endeavour to go back over the ground
which has been traversed in them, satisfying, so far as I can,
the reasonable claims, and they are many, that have been
made." And in addressing my honourable colleagues in
Council soon afterwards, 1 said : " Any one can see at a glance
that what is uppermost in the minds of the people is the
desire for increased material prosperity."
It was to give them this increased material prosperity
that I mainly directed my efforts, well knowing that it was
but little that one man could do in a few rapidly passing
years, even although he was assisted, as I was, by most able
and excellent officials ; but yet in the belief that I should be
able to sow some seeds which might in process of time grow
into healthy trees, good for food, wood, and shelter.
When the ,views of the late Viceroy upon that subject
became known, there were many requests for more local self-
government, and that we gave them in ample measure.
There were requests, too, for a sharper delimitation than
exists in the district administration between Executive and
Judicial functions. That desire I shared, and I apprehend
that the only valid objection that can be urged to it is the
difficulty of raising the requisite taxation.
The first thing to be remembered about our Eastern
Administration is that we have undertaken the task of carry
ing on an European, highly scientific system of government
with what would have seemed starvation allowance to our
Mahommedan predecessors, who did not do in return for the
much larger revenue which they raised one-hundredth part of
what we do. Think what it is to defend life and property and
to fulfil all the more essential duties of government in a
country as big as Belgium, or, as in the case of the district of

i888] APPENDIX 223
Vizagapatam, half as big again as Belgium, where your two
principal officers, respectively at the head of the Administration
and Justice of the District, receive, what is at the present rate of
exchange, less than ;^2,ooo a year I
This in passing. Let us turn to the things which chiefly
interested those who addressed me.
First, we will take railways. With regard to these I felt most
warmly with those who pressed for them, and we were able to
do a great deal towards meeting their wishes.
I will mention only two lines in which I took very special
interest. The object of the first of these was to tap the huge
delta of the Kistna, and to pour its mighty supplies of food
right through one of the worst portions of the zone, where, as I
said to you a little while ago, the uncertainty of the rainfall
always kept us uneasy about famine or scarcity.
The other, rather further south, was designed to carry the
harvests from the delta of another great river — the Northern
Penndr — into another portion of the famine zone. Both these
lines will, when completed, if ever such another calamity falls
upon South India as fell upon it in the days of my predecessor,
the Duke of Buckingham, save hundreds of thousands of lives.
Another subject in which the people took an immense
interest was the minor irrigation works. By minor irrigation
works we usually mean in Madras, works which irrigate under
200 acres. You must know that if you ascend almost any
height in South India, you look down upon numbers of small
shallow artificial lakes, which are used to catch the rains and
fertihse the peasant's fleld. Some of these are of great
antiquity, some quite modern ; but a considerable proportion of
them had got out of working order from various causes, and all
of them had been laid out in too haphazard a way, without being
properly correlated to each other. We had, under the able

224 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
direction of Col. Hasted and others set to work by him, the
whole of the Presidency divided into 103 river basins, and before
I left the country the lakes of which I speak were being all
carefully arranged and repaired, so as to confer the utmost
possible amount of good upon the people. I need not say that
we only made a beginning of this, for it wiU take at least twenty
years of steady work to do all that is wanted.
These minor irrigation works, which are counted by tens
of thousands, have little in common, except their utility, with the
mighty undertakings which the genius of British engineers
and the assistance of British capital has enabled successive
Governments to create in Southern India, and which the
people thoroughly appreciate. These are amongst the most
stupendous works of the kind that have ever been executed by
man, and to sustain and extend them must be always a matter
of the deepest interest to the Administration of Madras. I
say to sustain them, and you will not be surprised when I tell
you that the Godavari, by no means one of our most trouble
some rivers, came down one summer's day in 1886, twenty-
nine feet deep, over the anicut or great weir which spans it at
the head of our irrigation works, and four miles broad. To
bridle so stupendous a natural force as that, and to make it do
beneficent work for man, appears to me something to be really
proud of
Just before my government came to an end, I had the
pleasure of inspecting, with our chief engineer, a virtually
completed work which had been begun in February 1882 for
the purpose of regulating the irrigation, under the Cauvery and
Vennaar rivers. These regulators are the largest things of
the kind in the world, and govern the irrigation of 900,000
acres. I must say I felt a thrill of pleasure to think that so
stupendous an undertaking, working pure good, had been

i888] APPENDIX 225
commenced and ended during the brief period of my stay in
India. Another subject about which there was a good deal of
interest in certain districts which I visited was mining. In
minerals we are in Madras not very strong. Coal, alas ! there
is none in the Presidency; but we gave in my term much
attention to a project for facilitating its transmission to the
capital by railway and canal from the nearest source in the
Nizam's dominions.
Of copper there is a good deal, and there is, in the Salem
district, a huge mass of magnificent iron, most favourably
situated with reference to railway communication, which will,
when the Forest Legislation of six years ago has done its work
be of great value.
It is rather with Ceylon than with Southern India that we are
accustomed to think in connection with pearls, but the pearl
oyster is also found off the Madras district of Tinnivelly, and
when I went in September 1886 to inspect, with the help of
divers, the pearl-bearing beds, I found the shells full of minute
seed-pearls, which ought about this time to be giving a rich
harvest. The pearl oyster, however, has many enemies, and I
know not whether the good promises of two years ago have
been crowned by performance.
During the government of my immediate predecessors
very high hopes had been entertained both in India and
England as to the results which were likely to follow gold
mining in the beautiful district lying on the western side of
the Presidency known as the Wynaad. These hopes had to a
great extent resulted in disappointment before I landed in
India, but I took an early opportunity of visiting the country
where the operations of the gold miners had been chiefly
carried on, and came to the conclusion that although there had
VOL. II. P

226 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
been much reckless speculation and much mismanagement,
yet that the existence of gold in the Wynaad was not to be
ignored in casting the horoscope of Southern India.
There is gold there, and a good deal of gold ; but if in order
to get a sovereign's worth of gold you expend the value of two
or three sovereigns, it is not very good business. Some day
when a cheaper method is applied to dealing with the very
intractable quartz through which the gold is diffused, I daresay
some shareholders will make its extraction pay ; but they must
set to work in a far less sanguine spirit than did their pre
decessors of ten years ago. We took care that any future
miners should work under favourable conditions by making the
rules applicable to their industry extremely liberal.
You know that Southern India was once the great source of
diamonds. Every one has heard of Golconda. Diamonds were
never to the best of my belief found at or very near that place,
but Golconda was the mart where diamonds were sold. It is in
the dominions of the Nizam, the great Mahommedan Prince
who lately illustrated his coronet by so wisely and generously
coming forward to aid in the defence of the Empire of which he
is in point of position and power incomparably the greatest
noble ; although others both in West and East can claim more
splendid and historic descent.
The diamond country is now comprehended within the
Madras Presidency. From the Madras district of Kurnool
probably came the famous Koh-i-noor, "the mountain of
light " ; and so did the stiU more beautiful diamond now
knovm as the "Regent," whose extraordinary fate it was first
to have made the fortune of the Pitt family, and secondly, to
have been of material service to Napoleon, the great adversary
of Pitt, who wore it at his coronation in the handle of his
sword.

i888] APPENDIX 227
Observing that fine diamonds still came into the market
from the same region from which these historic gems pro
ceeded, we thought it would be wise so to alter the regulations
which prevailed about diamonds, as to give every facility
to persons who desired to search for them by the means which
have proved so successful in South Africa. I believe some
enterprising capitalists have quite recently taken advantage
of the regulations as they now stand to make some serious
attempts to mine for diamonds in the Madras territory. I do
not know whether they have actually got to work ; but I
am sure that the regulations which we framed will be no
obstacle. The Madras Presidency has, as I have said, an enormous
sea-board, scattered along which there are a very large number
of little creeks, backwaters, and indentations of the coast, which
look at first sight as if they could be turned into harbours. It
is not surprising, accordingly, that the people were constantly
asking for harbour works. We gave great attention to their
most natural wishes, but alas ! alas ! Nature has been quite
dreadfully cruel alike to the coast of Coromandel and to the
opposite coast of Malabar, It turned out to be absolutely im
possible to do anything of real importance, though of course
some minor improvements could be carried into effect. Lord
Hobart, who died suddenly in Madras in 1875, originated a
gigantic project for an artificial harbour at that place. When
I arrived I found this work in a very advanced condition, but a
few days afterwards one of the cyclones, which are amongst
the scourges of those regions, burst upon the coast and dashed
the most exposed portions of the unfortunate harbour to pieces.
The Government was not to be beat, and set to work to repair
the errors of the able, but not in this case happy, engineer to
whom the Secretary of State had confided the undertaking, and

228 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
during the five years which followed we had no repetition of the
catastrophe. Whether, however, a great and serviceable harbour
can ever be maintained at Madras, is one of the secrets of the
future. We have very little experience yet of great harbour
works in the tropics, but these are cases of nothing venture,
nothing have.
From time to time I came upon indications that the native
cultivator was beginning to understand that he could derive a
good deal of assistance from the Science of Europe. It is a
matter of the greatest possible moment that he should do so,
for about seventy-five per cent, of the population of the Madras
Presidency depends upon agriculture for its subsistence. This
population increases, as we have seen, with great rapidity ; and
in the five-and-twenty years which preceded my arrival in
India, a quite enormous quantity of land was taken in by
the peasantry. Of course the best land is occupied first, and
the amount of really good land to be taken in in Madras is not
now very great, if we allow a proper proportion for the growth
of timber, pasture, and other necessary purposes. If we
cannot then widely extend our cultivation, we must make that
cultivation better. Primitive husbandry does well enough
when the people are few. England in the days of Queen
Anne produced about the present Indian average, say eleven
bushels to the acre. Now I am told that the average yield in
England is about twenty-eight bushels, while very much more
has been produced by the highest farming. If we could soon
arrive at results remotely approaching to what has been arrived
at here, we might dismiss the problem of the pressure of the
population of India upon the means of subsistence with a safe
conscience ; but that is, of course, out of the question. An
addition, however, of a comparatively slight kind to the
productive power of each acre would do much, as was well

1 888] APPENDIX 229
shown some years ago in some lectures addressed to you by
Sir William Hunter.
He said, and I have no doubt quite correctly, that if one
and a half per cent, were added yearly to the food production,
the supply would more than keep pace with the increased
demand, so far as the internal wants of India are concerned.
The Madras Government, under the guidance of your neigh
bour. Lord Napier, and others, was one of the first to become
alive to the pressure of the population upon the means of
subsistence, and to try to improve agriculture. In 1882
we followed up their work by creating a Department of
Agriculture, which was, if you remember, one of the
things Sir William Hunter advocated in addressing you.
About the sarae time, our attention having been called
to the terrible loss of national wealth from cattle disease,
we appointed a Veterinary Inspector, and inaugurated a scheme
for the training of persons to travel all over the country,
and give their services to sick cattle. In the next place,
we did everything that we could to spread agricultural informa
tion, and to show the more active-minded of the peasantry what
they could effect by following such of the European practices,
and using such of the European machines, as were suited to
their needs. Sometimes we were very well seconded by intelli
gent proprietors. I remember being particularly pleased with
one in the district of Tanjore. My late colleague and friend.
Sir Herbert Macpherson, a passionate agriculturist as well as
an excellent commander, gave an impulse to experiments in
silos, and if they could only be made successful in Southern
India, a prodigious amount of animal suffering would be saved,
and a great loss of property prevented. It is quite heart-break
ing to see the condition to which the cattle are reduced before
the commencement of the rains ; and when the rains do

230 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
commence, the poor creatures often die from eating too much
after their long-enforced starvation. I remember saying in a
speech that I thought the three F's of the Madras peasant
were : Fruit-trees, Fuel-trees, and Fodder-crops. I think so still.
Other agricultural subjects to which we gave attention were
the improvement of sugar manufacture, the better curing of
tobacco, the utilisation of the wild, or so-called Tussore, silk,
the substitution of a more varied agriculture for the all-prevail
ing rice, and many other things too numerous to mention. In
the West you can trust private enterprise to do these things :
but in the East it is different. Nothing but the most ceaseless
encouragement and kindly pressure from the rulers will induce
the people to change the ways in which they have lived from
time immemorial. There is a good story told which, if not
literally true, as it may be for all I know to the contrary, is
certainly true, considered as a parable : An English lady took a
fancy to a boy who was employed in her establishment in a very
mechanical capacity, that of punkah-puller — puller, that is, ot
one of the huge fans which moderate the heat in an Indian
house. She wished to excite the boy's ambition by showing
him that he might rise to a much higher place in her service.
At last, with infinite difficulty, she made him understand what
she was driving at, whereupon he said : " Madam, my father
pulled a punkah, my grandfather pulled a punkah, my great
grandfather pulled a punkah, all my ancestors for four million
ages pulled punkahs ; and before that, the god who founded
our caste pulled a punkah over Vishnu,"
Another agricultural subject which enlisted our sympathies,
small at first sight, but of really colossal importance to the
happiness of the people, was the extension of wells. Sir James
Caird, an admirable agricultural authority, as yon all know,
maintained that next to judicious railway extension the safest

1 888] APPENDIX 231
outlay of public money in India would probably be found in the
increase of wells for irrigation — and there is much to be said for
that view.
There are parts of the Presidency where the irrigation from
the artificial lakes is quite sufficient. There are other parts in
the West where the annual rainfall does all that is wanted ; but
there are regions where the artificial lakes dry up too readily.
In these, wells are priceless, and we went, I think rightly, to the
very outside edge of what was possible in encouraging the
peasant, by State assistance, to make wells.
Amongst the many boons which England has conferred upon
India, future ages will, I think, give a pretty high place to the
introduction of the Cinchona. It was brought from South
America by Mr. Clements Markham in our own times, amidst
incredible difficulties, and has now spread largely in various
parts of India. The Madras Government possesses very
considerable plantations of this valuable tree, and we set
ourselves to find out, a few years ago, whether we could not get
prepared an extract of Cinchona sufficiently cheap to be within
the means of the Madras peasant. Thanks to the intelligent
co-operation of Mr. Lawson and Mr. Hooper, we saw the
great problem solved, and I believe that quite recently these
gentlemen have had further successes. The Cinchona Depart
ment was producing even two years ago a febrifuge so cheap
that eight doses of it could be sold for three half-pence. You
will see what an immense amount of human suffering that
is calculated to alleviate when I remind you that Cinchona is
all but a specific for the very form of fever which is most
common in .Southern India ; and that the ravages of every
other disease, not excepting cholera, sink into insignificance
when compared to the tremendous mortality which is caused in
that part of the world by fever.

232 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
We gave a good deal of attention to the acclimatisation
of various other useful plants, constantly assisted by Sir Joseph
Hooker and Mr. Dyer, who were respectively at the head of
Kew at the beginning and end of my Madras life. I need not
say that we did our best to return the services done to us by
sending every scrap of information which we thought likely to
be useful to that admirably managed establishment, which
seems to me, and would I think seem to any one who had
occasion to know much of it, one of the most characteristically
Imperial institutions in the British Empire.
I was glad, amongst other things, to be able to assist the
authorities there in introducing the Pepper into the West
Indian Islands, Considering that the pepper trade from the
Malabar coast goes back to the very earliest days of navigation,
you win think it strange that that gift from the East to the
West was not made long ago. The pepper is, however, an
extremely delicate plant, and could not have been transferred
without the material appliances of our own day,
I not unfrequently found among the native population an
intelligent appreciation of the vast benefits which they were
likely to derive from the better regulation of the Forests, to
which we gave a very great amount of attention. Time was
in Southern India when there was only too much timber, and
he was the benefactor who cleared it away. That state of
things had entirely changed long before I went thither. Vast
breadths of lands had, as I have mentioned, been taken in by
the people. An increasing population required ever more
and more wood for fuel, and the railways did their part in
denuding the districts through which they passed. The state
of the Madras forests seven years ago excited much uneasiness
at the India Office, and was commended very specially to my
notice as soon as I had received my appointment. I hope and

i888] APPENDIX 233
think that it was left in a much better position by the end of
1886. Our leading ideas were (to quote an official document which
I drew up before leaving the Presidency) : —
" I. Madras has no coal. She must then look forward, even
when the Singareni field is opened up, to using a prodigious
amount of wood for fuel.
"II. Madras, the land of artificial irrigation, is exceptionally
dependent upon a good distribution of her rainfall. Whether or
not trees have the power of atttracting rain, I have myself no
doubt they have an immense deal to do with its distribution,
and there are wide regions of the Presidency now denuded,
which cannot be left so without imminent danger of agricultural
disaster. "III. But in regulating the proper proportion of trees, care
must be taken neither to sacrifice the present to the future, nor
the future to the present. If we have too many trees we
sacrifice the cultivator and grazier of the 19th century to
those of the 20th. If we have too few, the cultivator and
grazier of the 20th century will be, in many districts, simply
non-existent. " We believe that, under the system which we have adopted,
the golden mean is likely to be attained ; but no system can be
properly worked without good sense and a conciliatory spirit
on the part of those who work it. The anxious desire of the
Government in, and since, the great changes of 1882-83, has
been to make it as easy as possible for Collectors and Forest
Officers to unite their efforts for the general good of the country,
discouraging any tendency to emphasise unduly the interests,
either of to-day or to-morrow."
Sometimes we had representations from the European
planters, and we did what we could to help them in their

234 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
difficulties, well knowing the importance of attracting capital
from the West. Unfortunately, however, circumstances have
of late been very adverse to the planter in South India. The
truth is, that so many parts of the world can grow very fair
tea and coffee that those whose lot has not fallen in regions
where those articles can be produced exceptionally cheap, or
superlatively good, have a bad time of it.
We have been so long in Southern India that it would be
strange if we had not communicated to the natives our
European idea that learning, if not better than house and
lands, is at least a highly useful adjunct to them. Madras
is the portion of India in which, thanks to, amongst other
things, the labours of Catholic and Protestant Missionaries,
education is most extended. The people, much to their
credit, were always pressing upon me when I travelled the duty
of giving more and more help to education, and we tried to
meet them in every possible way. We did all we could to
spread primary education. The attendance in the lowest kinds
of schools increased very largely in the five years during which
I was able to watch it. In addition to all the usual reasons for
attending to primary education, there is one of quite peculiar
moment in India. The cultivator is there the most imprudent
of mankind ; his first step in life is generally to get as much
credit from the usurer of the hamlet as he can, and till recently
he could hardly ever read, much less cipher, so that he was
completely in the hands of the men who furnished him with
money. The people, however, cared a great deal also about
secondary, and above all, technical education. We sympathised
with this to the greatest possible degree, for it is of quite
supreme importance that more varied industries should be in
troduced into Southern India. We set on foot accordingly a
great scheme of examinations in all such as were at all likely to

APPENDIX 235
take root. In each subject we had prepared a syllabus, so that
a youth could see at a glance what he was expected to know,
and with each syllabus was given away an excellent little paper
containing general remarks concerning the object and method
of teaching science.
Do not suppose by my using the word science, that we
only gave attention to what is usually known as such. We
provided, inter alia, useful clues for people who wanted to study
the making of carpets, of paper, the dressing of leather, and
even cooking. Nor did we neglect the higher education in
which the people, sooth to say, take only too much interest,
for they all want to become Government employ^ or lawyers ;
and although the number of Native Government employes in
the Madras Presidency is very large, yet there are clearly not
a sufficient number of appointments to accommodate anything
like the number of persons who want to get them ; while the
litigious instincts of the race, although fearful and wonderful,
are not absolutely infinite or capable of supporting whole
armies of lawyers.
What we did chiefly in connection with higher education
was to throw our influence into the scientific as against the
literary scale. We created a Professor of Biology, and we
gave a special grant for a second. We provided, too, the lead
ing Government colleges with teachers and appliances for
giving instruction in experimental physics and chemistry.
Previous to 1875 there was not one college in the Presidency
where these two sciences were taught. When I came away
they were taught in all but one. We tempted out the Professor
of Botany from Oxford, a man of rare ability and merit, to be
our Government Botanist ; put the School of Art under a
highly competent teacher from South Kensington ; transplanted
from London to take charge of our museum a man who under-

236 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
stands modern scientific methods, and is full of enthusiasm for
his subject, who has just come home to employ his holiday in
working out a perfect treasure of new corals and other sea pro
ducts, which he gathered in the extreme south. Among the
last unofficial acts I had to do in the Presidency was to preside
at the resurrection of the Scientific and Literary Society, which
had been long dormant, but which the zeal of a Scotchman
(Mr. Michie Smith) had just awakened into new life.
One of the very worst mistakes we have made in India is
to give too much of a Western-literary, as distinguished from
a Western-scientific, character to our teaching. It is little
that one man can do to repair this calamitous misdirection
of our energies ; but I put my views on record about it, not
only in official documents, but in an address, with which I
took a good deal of trouble, delivered in my capacity of
Chancellor of the University of Madras.^ " Liberavi animam
nuam ;" but before we have got over the mischief that has
been already done, if we ever do get over it, those who are
responsible for the future of India will have many a bad quarter
of an hour.
I spoke a little time ago of introducing new industries ;
but while we do this I should like to see some care given to
encouraging the manufacture of some of the articles of beauty
and luxury for which India was once famous. That cannot be
done by Government, and it cannot be done by the ordinary
operation of the law of supply and demand. The demand for
Indian ornamental articles which has sprung up of late years
has had the result, not of stimulating the manufacture of
really beautiful things, but of caUing into existence cheaper
and far inferior things. I have elsewhere suggested that
^Republished in the last volume of Notes from u Diary, 1881-1886
(1898),

i888] APPENDIX 237
Europeans of good artistic taste might do a useful work by
associating themselves together and keeping in their pay the
scattered artificers throughout the country, who still care for
and wUl, with time and encouragement, produce beautiful
things. These men usually represent families who worked for
the luxurious native courts, which used to spend in ornamented
arms, trappings, and articles of many kinds a quite unreason
able proportion of the money they took from the people. Our
Government is obliged to be very simple in all these matters,
because otherwise it would not be able to spend money on
things really useful to the people ; but the gradual dying out
of the arts which ministered to the luxury of the native courts
is nevertheless a misfortune which might be remedied to some
extent by the association of well-to-do and intelligent private
persons. Other things for which the people asked, and with regard
to all of which we were enabled in many ways and places to
coraply with their wishes, were improved roads, increased com
munication by bridges and ferries, deeper and better connected
waterways through the lagoons of the Western coast, the
introduction of purer water into some of their towns, piers to
permit of the loading and unloading of vessels on the seaward
side of the terrible surf which rolls in from the Bay of Bengal,
more commodious public buildings, and a conservation at
Government expense of some of the stately ruins bequeathed to
us by vanished native dynasties.
I should like to have had more frequent requests made
to me for assistance in carrying out sanitary projects and
diminishing preventible diseases. I have no doubt that if
some other Governor, fifteen years hence, makes a circuit
through the Presidency, he will hear a great deal more on this
subject. At present we are in a state in which Government

238 NOTES FROM A DIARY [November
and its officers are obliged to keep pressing upon the people
the most elementary truths of hygiene. That will not always be
so, but an Indian Administration has in such matters to follow
the example of O'Connell, who used to go on repeating this or
that statement until it " began to come back to him.'' There
is hardly one of the things for which the representatives of
the Native population asked me, for which they would have
asked one of my predecessors fifty years ago. It is their
English rulers who have taught them to wish for all these
good things, and in doing so they have, I think, conferred vast
blessings upon a large portion of mankind. I trust that those
to whom the destinies of India are confided will continue to
encourage the people to wish for things which will bring to
them real and practical benefits. I have not the slightest
sympathy with those who try to divert their attention from
such things to tinkering political machinery. I believe that
from such foolish and evil teaching nothing can result
except grievous injury to Great Britain and absolute ruin to her
Indian subjects.
We have one real difficulty and one real danger in the
East. The difficulty is the fall in silver : the danger is that
spirit of generous folly which has become of late so potent an
element in our domestic affairs. The difficulty is not
of our own making, and we must turn it as best we can. For
the danger we alone are responsible, and it will vanish away if
we determine, putting quietly by suggestions of organic changes,
whether well-meant or sinister, steadily to devote ourselves
to doing such things as I have been speaking of — things
demonstrably good ; and to carrying with us in the doing of
them, the sensible and steady portion of our subjects who are
already showing signs of alarm at the doctrines promulgated
in certain quarters. Our system of government is susceptible

i888] APPENDIX 239
of ceaseless improvement. God forbid that we should ever fold
our hands and say to the moment : " Stay, thou art so fair ! " ;
but sure I am that if we mean our work to endure we must
build on the old lines. If the political methods which meet our
wants at home are suitable for our Eastern Empire, then our
position there is absurd. We are, and must be to the end of
the chapter, intruders ; but if we went to-morrow the next
paramount power, whatever it was, whether it came from beyond
the passes, or rose like the Mahrattas in the Peninsula, would
be considered just as much of an intruder.
It would inherit the reproach which is so frequently brought
against our countrymen of not being "sympathetic."
I should like, by the way, to know when and where between
this and the beginning of the Stone Age, a ruling race appeared
to those whom it ruled to be " sympathetic." After all, however,
the best fruit of sympathy is beneficence, and the barren
sympathy of some of our critics makes me think of the well-
known observation : " A never sees B in distress without wishing
C to relieve him."
The more kindly our officers are in their intercourse with
the natives of India the better, and nothing can be more
kindly than the tone of our best officers ; but, after all, things
cannot be, and not be : a ruling race must rule, or it had better
retire from business.

INDEX

Abbaye aux Bois, i, 165
Abbotsford, i, 154
Abdalla, Pasha, i, 252
Abela, Mr, Ayoub, i, 241, 242, 245
Aberdare, Lord, i, 65, 68, 70, 134,
13s ; ii, 1 16, 125, 130, 134,
135, 141, 165
Aberdeen, Lord, i, 118, 131, 142
 University Club, i, loi
Abigail, i, 269
Abyssinian monastery, i, 31
Aci Reale, i, 37
Acqua Paola, i, 58
Acre, i, 23, 25, 246, 247, 251,
252, 259, 260, 262, 266, 267,
273 ; ii, 8, 19, 74, 99
Acton, i, 26, 42, 62, '64, 68, 134,
142, 147, 148, 152; ii, 2,29,
116
Adam, Madame, i, 64
Adams, Mr., astronomer, ii, 156
Adelsberg, i, 156
Aden, i, 2, 137
Adonis, ii. 45
Aennchen von Tharau, i. 201 ; ii.
157
Aenon, ii. 68
Aeschylus, i. 150
Agamemnon, i. 150; ii. 184
Agra, Pearl mosque at, ii. 87
Ahab, i. 246, 259
Ahaziah, i. 259
Ain es Sultan, ii. 66
Ain-karim, i. 12
Ainslie, Douglas, i. 151, 159
Ajalon, i. II
Akreyr, i. 172
Akrotiri, i. 238

Akulkote, i. 93
Alaro, i. 39
Albania, ii, 113
Albemarle, Lord, i. 1 34
Albenga, i, 58
Alburnus, i, 40
Alcestis, i, 159
Alderbury, i, 121
Alexander the Great, i, 8, 233,
244, 247
Alexander II,, Emperor, i, 161
Alexandria Troas, ii, 38
Alexander of Bulgaria, i, 133, 222
Alexandri, M,, i, 225
Alexandria, i, 6, 7, 8, ij, 32, 36,
136
Alexandrine, i, 176; ii, 96
Alford, Lady Marian, i, loi
Alfred the Great, i, 124
Alge9iras, ii, 97
Algeria, i, 61; ii, 37; colonists
from, 81
Alisa, villa, i. 200, 201
Alison, Sir Archibald, ii. igo
Allahabad, i, 268
Alma, i, 161
Almaforte, Conte di, ii, 134
Almond tree, ii, 41
Aloys, i, 201
Alpheus, i, 122
Alston, Mr,, i, 133
Amalfi, i, 40
Ambleside, ii, 172, 176
Amenophis IIL, ii, 39
Amiel, i, 90
Ampthill, Lord, i, 98, 117, i8g
Amwas, i, 12
Anamalais, i, 113

242

INDEX

Anapus, i, 35
Ancient Mariner, the, i, 166
Andalusite, i, 131
Andalusia, ii, 37
Anderledy, Father, i, 55
Andrewes, Bishop, i, 119
Andrews, Mr,, i, 59, 61, 68, 195
Andromeda, i, 9
Anemones, ii, 23, 29
Angelico, Fra, ii, 98, 113
Anne of Denmark, i, 168
Antkologia Oxoniensis, i, 182
Anthony, i, 8
Antilles, ii, 12
Antigone, the New, ii, 169
Anti-Libanus, ii, 91
Antioch, i, 252
Antipatris, i, 22
Ansariyeh, i, 18, 242, 243, 261;
ii, 82
Apes' hill, ii, 97
Apis tombs, i, 27
Apocalypse, i, 259
Apocrypha, i, 8
Apollo, ss,, i, 206
Apollos, i, 9
Apdtres, les, ii, 10
Arabah, Plain of, ii, 55
Arabian desert, i, 173
Arabian Nights, i, 6
Aramaic dialect, ii, 16
Arbuthnot, Sir A,, i, 108
Arbuthnot, Mr, and Mrs, Robert,
ii. 108
Arco, Count, i. 26
Areschoug, i. 119
Arethusa, Fountain of, i. 34
Argonne, i. 165
Argyll, Duke of, i. 105, 131 ; ii.
34. 132
Aristotle, ii. 90
Arius, i. 7
Arki, i. 236
Armageddon, i. 259
Armenian service, i. 17
Arno, i. 54
Arnold, Dr., of Rugby, i. 1 19, ig3 ;
ii, 15s, 173, 202; Mrs, M.
Arnold, i8g, 195, 196, 198, 202

Arnold, Matthew, 79, 148, 189,
265; ii. 40; death of, 95, 141,
142, 175. 196
Arnold, Edwin, i, 108, 143
Arnold, Jane, ii, 172, 176
Ascalon, i, 25
Ascot, i, 127
Ashbourne, Lord, i, 141
Ashburton, Lord, i, 142
Ashby St. Ledgers, ii. 168
Ashdod, i. 267
Asher, i. 271
Ashmanezer, i. 23; sarcophagus
of, 242
Asia Minor, i, 10
Asochis, ii, 76
Askar, ii, 57
Asphaltites, Lake, ii, 65
Aspromonte, i, 39, 40
Athanasian Creed, ii, 166
Athenaeum Club, i, 68, 6g, 124,
148
Athelney, i, 124
Athens, i, 147, 148
Athene Brama, i, 46, 112
Athltt, i, 252, 253, 254, 266; ii,
17. 19. 39; sands of, 46, 52
Atkinson, i, 137, 138, I3g, 145
Atossa, the Great, ii, 196
A travers V Empire Britannique,
i, 65
Attacks at Madrid, i, 128
Atterbury, i, 170
Atticus, i, 43
Aubrey de Vere, ii, 184
Augustenburg, House of, ii, 183
Augustinians, Church of, i, 212
Aurora Leigh, i, 224
Austin, Charles, i. 154
Australia, i, 32
Austria, Emperor of, i, 1 67
 Empress of, i, 57
Avicenna, ii. 15
Avignon, ii. 25
Avites, i. 10
Awdry, Mrs., i. 53; ii. 12
Axine Sea, i, 226
Ayoub Khan, ii, 151
Azaleas, ii, 113

INDEX

243

Botanical Names—
Acanthus Syriacus, ii, 70
Acacia Farnesiana, i, 60
 lophantha, ii, 2g
Agave Americana, i, 38, 60
Algce, ii, 17
Allium, ii, 63, 76
AnacardiacecB, i. 255
Anagyris fatida, ii. 49
Anchusa, ii. 63
Anemone coccinea, i. 24
 ccerulea, i. 24
 coronaria, ii. 14
Arundo Phragmites, i. 260
Asphodeline lutea, ii. 69
Astragalus, Drusorum, i. 24;
ii. 81
Balanites jEgyptiaca, ii. 68
(False balm of Gilead)
Balsamodendron Gileadense, ii.
68 (Balm of Gilead)
Bellevalia Romana, ii. 72
Bombax, i. 112
Boswellia Carterii, i. i
Callitris quadrivalvis, i. 61
Calotropis, ii. 67
Caltka palustris, i. 125
Campanula stilphurea, ii, 94
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum.,
i, 125
 segetum, ii, 71
Cynara Syriaca, i, 260
Cistus Salviafolius, ii, 77
 villosus, ii, 77
Curatella, i, 61
Diospyros QiicEsita, i, 95
Draba verna, i, 153
Echium violaceum, ii, 49, 76
Eremostachys laciniata, ii, 53, 54
Erodium, i, 179; ii, 51
Erophila vulgaris, i, 153
Eucalyptus amygdalina, i, 60
Evolvulus, i, 112

a;, 11, 27
 reticulata, ii, 72
Gluta Travancorica, i, 255
Gymnema, sylvestre, i, 22, 94
Harpagopkyton procumbens, i,
165

Botanical Names — continued.
.Heliantketnum chamecistus, i.
153
 vulgare, i, 153
Hypecoum, ii, 63
Inula Crithmoides, ii, 46
/rzj reticulata, ii, 45
 Sisyrhinchium, ii, II
Ixiolirion montanum, ii, 84
Lavandula Stcechas, ii, 94
Linum pubescens, ii, 51, 70,
Lupine, ii, 74
Lupinus pilosus, ii, 55, 56
Mandragora officinalis, i. 2 1
Merendera, i. 274
Monstera deliciosa, i. g6
Narcissus poeticus, ii. 102
Ononis, ii. 63
Or chis papilionacea, ii. 73
Orobanch, ii. 65
Orobanche-ramosa, ii. 77
Passerina hirsuta, ii, g4
Phelipaa lutea, ii, 65
Phlomis fruticosa, i, 33
Pistacia lentiscus, ii, 49
 palestina, ii, 82
Podonosma Syriacum, ii, 63
PolemoniacecE, ii, 70
Polygala, i, 127
Poterium spinosum, ii, 81
Prunus Laurocerasus, i, 180
Quercus pseudococcifera, ii, 77,
78
Ranunculus Aconitif alius, I. 124
 aquatilis, ii. 72
 hirsutus, i, 153
 lingua, i. 149
 Sardous, i, 153
Retama rcetam, ii, 42, 65, 176
Rhododendron Aucklandii, ii.
100
Ricotia lunaria, ii. 40
Richardia ^thiopica, ii. 28
i?«/a, ii. 8
Sarcostemma, \. 22
Schinus molle, i. 255
Scilla hyacinthoides, ii. 72, 76
Senecio vernalis, ii. 47, 50

244

INDEX

Botanical Names — continued.
Solanum, sanctum, ii, 67
Statice, ii, 67
Strelitzia Regime, ii, 107
Styrax, ii, 70
Tormentilla, i, 127
Tritonia, i, 181
'Vallota purpurea, i, 181
Verbascum, ii, 76
Veronica Syriaca, ii, 55
Viscum, ii, 56
Xiphion palcestinum, ii, 72
Zizyphus, ii, 67

Baalbek, ii, 91
Bab, ii, 20, 21
Babda, i, 24, 239
Babette, ii, 143
Babington, i. 119
B3.bis sect, i, 251
Babylon, ii, 23
Bacchus and Ariadne, ii, 104
Bacon, ii, go
Bagdad, i, 177, 22g, 261 ; ii. 90
Bagehot, Mrs, i. 123, 182, 201,
202
 Walter, i. 170
Baha-ud-din, ii. 37
Balaam, i, 122
Balestra, Palazzo, i. 51
Balkans, i, 226
Ball, John, i, 72, 106; ii, 112
Balliol, i, 22, 102, 169; ii, 120,
15s
Balmoral, ii, 1 55
Balthasar Gracian, i, 92
Bamborough Castle, i. 210
Banias, ii, 81, 82, 83
Banff, ii, 178
Bangalore, i, 126
Baptists, ii. 16
Barada, i. 244 ; ii. 86, 87, 92
Barak, i. 260
Barbarossa, i. 244 ; grave, ii. 72
Barberini Palace, ii. 135
Bardsley, Dr., ii, 168
Baring, Sir Evelyn, i, 26, 30
 Lady Emma, i, 106

Barrington, Mrs,, i. 84, 123; ii.
102, 103
 i. 103, 182
Barthelemy Saint Hilaire, i. 126 ;
ii. 131
Bashan, ii. 85
Basilica of Curtea de Arges, i. 225
 of St, Helena, i, 17
Basterot, Comte de, ii, 183
Bautzen, i, 203
Bayle, i, 174
Baziasch, i, 220
Beaumont, Somerset, i, 152
Beckford Library, ii, 179
Bedford, Duke of, i, 77, 104 ; ii.
136, 183
— — Duchess of, i. 75
Beeroth, i. 16
Before Sedan, ii, 143
Belcredi, Count, i, 206
Belfort, ii, 83, g3
Belka, i. 261
Bellary, ii, 3
Bellasis, Mr, ii. 121
Bellosguardo, i. 53
Bells and Pomegranates, i. 175
Belus, the, ii. 74
Belvedere, ii. 146
 Vienna, i. 207
Benjamin, i, 11
 of Tudela ii, 22
 uplands of, ii, 60
Bentham, ii, 106
Berengaria, i, 238
Beresford, Lord Charles, i, 85
Berkeley, ii, go
Berlin, i, 154; gallery, 169; ii.
1 55
Bernadotte, ii. 183
Berryer, i. i6g
Berthelot, M., i. 63
Bert, Paul, ii. 131
Berule, South, ii. 166
Bescheerung, i. 270
Bethabara, ii. 7
Bethany, i, 16, 17 ; ii, 62
Bethel, ii, 60
Bethel, Miss, ii, 28
Bethhoron, i. n

INDEX

245

Beth Nimrah, ii. 7
Bethlehem, ii, 61, 63
Bethsaida, i. 276 ¦
Bethuha, ii. 55
Beust, Count, i. 200, 223
Beyrout, Bay of, i. 23, 24, 25,
23g, 268
Biancheri, i. 49
Bible for Young People, i. 266
Bickersteth, ii. 132
" Bimetallic speech," ii. 102
Bird wood, Sir G., i. 75, 108
Bishop's Court, Isle of Man, ii.
167, 168
Bishop, Mrs., i, loi ; ii, I2
 Mr,, ii, 127, 185
Bismarck, i, 48, 128, I2g, 177,
192, 211
Blaine, i, 138
Blairs, i, 45
Blanc, Baron, i, 230
 Charles, ii, 144
Blanchegarde, i, 26
Blennerhassett, i, 154
Bliss, Mr, i, 44
Bloomfield, Lady, i, 189, 206
Bloxam, i, iig
Blucher, ii, 128
Blue Naiad, a, ii, 115
Blunt, Lady Anne, i, 172
Boaz, i, 17
Boccaccio, i, 35
Boehm, ii, ig8
Bolan Railway, ii, 27
BoUe, Sir John, i, 183
Bolton Abbey, ii, 162, 163
Bonham, Lady, i, 194
Bonn, i, 68
Bookbinding, i, 85
Boord, Mr,, i, 102
Bordeaux Pilgrim,, Tke, ii, 18, ig
Borgia, i, 45
Bosnian colonists, ii, 50
 refugees, i, 267
Bostrenus, i, 241
Boucher, ii, 144
Boulak Museum, i, 26, 2g
Boulanger, General, ii, 136
Bourchier, Mr,, i, 159

Bourget, M,, i, 64, 90
Boutmy, i, 64
Bouveries, i, 121
Bowen, Charles, i, 102, 108; ii,
128, 137, 138
Bowyer, Miss, i, 54
Boyle, George, i, 71, 119, 120,
122, 127, 175, 177 ; ii- 199
Bradford, ii, 163
Bramston, i, 104
Brandis, i, 68
Breakfast Club, i, 68, 79, 90, 99,
106, 133, 142, 147, 152 ; ii,
116, 125, 130, 134
Breslau, i, 204
Bret Harte, i, 107
Breton scenery, ii, 18
Bridgewater, i, 183
Bright, i, 90, 91,92, 194; ii, 109,
141, 163
Brighton, ii, 98
British Association, ii, 161
 Museum, i, 129, 148; ii, 145
Brittany, i, 69
Brocard, Father, i, 250
Brodrick, G,, i, 84
 St, John, i, 124
Bronte, Charlotte, ii. 175
Brooks's, ii. 146
Brooks, Phillips, i. 152
Brookfield, ii. 25, 185
Brotherhood of Purity, ii, 15
Brown, Robert, ii, 106
 Dr, John, ii, 113
Browning, ii, 128
Brugsch Bey, i, 27, 28
Brunswick, Duke of, i, 173
Brussels, i, 198
Bryce, Prof,, i, loi
Bucharest, i, 216, 226
 Treaty of, ii, 169
Buckingham, Duke of, ii, 160
 shire, i, 53
 Palace, i, 141
Buildings of Justinian, ii, 18
Buckland, Frank, ii, 167
Buckle, ii. 88, 8g
Bulwer, i. 126
Bunsen, G. de., i. 6g

246

INDEX

Bunsen, M. de., i. 93
Bunzlau, i, 203
Burka, ii, 70, 71
Burke, Father, ii, 185
Burmah, ii. 151
Burmese sanataria, ii, 27
Burnefs History of his own Times,
ii, 156
Burr, Mrs, Higford, ii, 115
Burton, Mrs,, ii, 9
 Sir F,, i, 126
 Pynsent, i, 183, 240
Busbequius, ii, loi
Butcher, Professor, ii, 180
Butler, G,, i, 182
 Sir W,, i, 75
Buttauf, ii, 76
Butterfield, i, 192
Buxton, Charles, ii, 159
 Mrs, Charles, i, 98
 Mrs, Sydney, i, 165
Bylandt, i, 99
Byrne, ii, 106
Byron, i, 48, 71, 82, 135
Bywater, i, 87

Cadhay, i, 193
Caelian, The, i, 49
Caesar, i, 8 ; ii, 116
Caesarea, i, 23, 267 ; ii. 50, 83
Cairo, i, 26, 268
Caius Cestius, i. 80 ; ii, 89
Calabrian Mountains, i, 38
Calcraft, Mr, Henry, ii, 149, 150
Calderon de la Barca, Mme,, i,
128
Calice, Baron, i, 229, 230
Caliphs, i, 245
CaUimachus, i, 71, 87
Calvert, Mr, Frank, i, 236
Calymnos, i. 236
Cambridge, Duke of, ii, 138
 University of, i, 120, 181
Cambyses, i, 25
Cameron, Mr,, i, 74
Campbell, Monsignor, i, 45
 the poet, ii, 95, 174
Canada, ii, 121

Cana of Galilee, i, 274
Candahar, ii, 27
Candiano, Colonel, i. 222
Cannes, i, 62
Canning, Lord, i, 254; ii. 167
Canova, i, 205 ; ii, 159
Canrobert, i, 63
Canterbury, i, 156
Canzoniere, ii, 97
Capernaum, i, 254, 276 ; ii, 45
 controversy, ii. ig4
Capitol, ii. 180
Capponi Villa, i. 183
Capuchins, i. 245
Cardali, Mr., ii. 21
CardweU, i. 107 ; ii, 130
Carew, i, 176
Cariati, i, 40
Carlyle, i, 181, 188, i8g; ii, 24,
176
Carlingford, i, 68
Carmel, i, 9, 23, 25, 249, 250,
253. 255. 256, 266, 269, 273;
wild beasts on, ii, 7, 10, 13,
14, 18, 23, 27, 42, S3, 80
Carmine church, i. 55
Carnot, i, 269
Carpathians, i, 205
Carruthers, ii, 105
Carthage, ii, 23
Cartwright, i, 48
Cascine, i, 58
Caserta, i, 43
Castelar, i, 20, 246; ii, 112, 159
Catacombs, i, 36
Catesby family, ii, 168
Catholic Doctrine of Atonement,
ii, 104
Cautions for the choice of M,Ps,,
ii, 180
Cause and Effect, ii. 90
Cava, La, i. 41
Cavendish, Cecil, i. 126
 College, Cambridge, ii. 170
 Lord F., i. 79
Cavour, i. 48, 230; ii. 135
Cavour e Bismarck, i. 48
Cenci, Beatrice, ii. 135
Cephrenes, i. 29

INDEX

247

Cetto, Baron de, i. 49
Ceuta, ii. 97
Ceylon, i. 153
Chablais, i. 59
Chamberlain, Mr., i, 80 ; ii, 141
Chambers, Robert, i, 98
Chambertin, i, 50
Chameleons, ii, 53
Charlecote, i, 151
Charlemagne, i, 61 ; ii, 209
Charlottenburg, ii, gg
Chapel of St, Mary, ii, 180
Chapter House, i, 83
Charles the Bold, i, 208
 I,, i, 100
 II,, i, 129; ii, 108
 IX,, i, 100
 Archduke, i, 205, 206
 Edward, i, 177
Chartreuse, Grande, ii, 64
Chatham, i, 183
 grand-daughter of, i, 240
Chaumette, i, 202
Chelsea, Lord, i, 167
Cheltenham, i, 86
Chequers, i, 139
Chesterfield, ii, 144
Childers, ii, 140, 141, 142
Child Musician, ii. 143
Chilka Lake, i. no
ChilHngworths, ii, 89
Chinamen, ii, 150
Chirol, Mr,, i, 225; ii, 44
Chitty, Judge, ii, 120
Chorazin, i, 277 ; ii, 77
Christiania, i, 61
Christians of St, John, ii, 15
Christian, Prince, i, 206
Christian Year, i, 193, 264, 280;
ii- ISS
Cicero, i, 31, 43, 194; ii, 23
 de republica, i, 44
Circassian colonists, ii, 81
Clam, Count Richard, i, 206
Clarendon, Lord, i, 89, 121, 131,
132
Clazomense, i, 234
Clement of Rome, i, 64
 VIIL, i, 45

Cleopatra i, 8
Clerk of Penicuik, Lady, i. 177
Clerk, General Godfrey, ii. 131
Clifford, Charles, ii. 112
Climates of India, i. 268
Clive, ii. 151
Cloth workers, i. 124
Clouet, ii, 203
Clough, ii, igg, 200
Cobden, Mr,, i, 87; ii, igg
Cobham, ii, igs
Coburg, Duke of Saxe-, i, 123
Cockburn, Lord, ii, 123
Cocks, Miss Soiners, i, 73, 74,
ig7; ii. 28, 98
Coeur de Lion, i. 239
Coins, ii, 145
Colenso diamond, i, 92
Coleridge, Father, ii, 132
 Henry Nelson, ii, no
 Lord, i, 72, 84, 86, 87, 132,
155, 192, 193, 264; ii, 108,
128, 154, ISS, 167. 169, 193,
194, igg
 Samuel Taylor, i, 185; ii,
no
 Sara, ii, 24
 Sir John, ii, 155
Coliseum, i, 46
Colley, Lady, ii, 102
Colmar, ii, 26
Cologne, i, 60; cathedral, i. ig8
Colonial office, i, 104
Colophon, i, 236
Colquhoun, Mr,, i, 4
Colvin, Sydney, i, 126
Commentary on the Psalms, i. 44
Commons, House of, ii, 180
Commune, victims of, ii, i8g
Comnenus, Isaac, i, 238, 239
Comte, ii, go
Concord, place de la, i, 65
Conde d'Eu, i, 212
Conder, Major, i, 24g, 253, 254,
267, 26g; ii, 21, 3g, 75
Confessional, ii, 194
Congo, i, 172
Constantinople, i, 147, 148, 235;
ii. 125

248

INDEX

Contemporary Review, ii. 205
Convito, i. 151
"Coon, The"i. 4
Cooper's Hill, ii. 138
Coptic Churcli, i. 30
Cordova, ii. 88
Corneille, i. 2, 130
Corniche, ii. 58
Cornish, Mr,, ii. 155
Coromandel, ss., i. 122
Correggio, ii. 135
Cosmopolitan Club, i. g7 ; ii.
112
C'^ttenham, Lord, ii. 166
C / sloe, Lord, i. 157
Co ope, Mr., ii. 133
Cou V, Leonard, i. 178, 184
Covt ii, 120
Cowl ^ord, i, 167
Cowpei, Henry, i, 68, 142, 147,
152; ii, 16
Cracow, i, 204, 205 ; ii. 172
Cranbrook, Lord, ii. 193
Craven, Mrs,, i, 42, 48, 51, 62, 64,
87, 104, 108, 197, 224, 268;
ii, 118, ng, i2g, 132, 189,
198, 200
Crefeld, i, 107
Crete, i, 10 ; ii, 95
Crocodiles, ii. 39
Crocodile River, ii. 48, 50
Crocus, i. 86
Cromarty, i. 146
Cromwell, i. 118, 129, 138
Cross, Lord, ii. 109, 198
Crotona, i. 40
Crusaders, i. 244 ; history of, ii. 2,
8
Cuddapah, ii. 145
Culloden, ii. 139
Cumberland, Duke of, i. 154
Cunningham, General, ii. 145
Cyane, i. 35
Cyclamen, ii. 26
Cyme, i, 235
Czacki, i, 44, 49, 52

Dach, Simon, ii, 157

Dacians, i, 221
Dacre, i, 177
Dagon, i, 10
Dalhousie, Title and Estates, ii.
157
Dalieh, i. 253, 255, 265, 271 ; ii.
7. 19. 92
Dalrymple, Charles, ii. 180
Damanhour, i, 9
Damascus, i, 261 ; ii, 3, 38 ; gate,
60, 84, 85, 86, 87, go;
interior of houses, gi
Damietta, i, 32
Dan, ii, 82
Dante, i, 48, 151 ; ii, 90
Danton, ii, 148
Danube navigation, i, 219, 220 ;
crossing, ii, 41
Darley, G,, i, 175
Darling, Mr Stormonth, ii, 177
Darwin, i, 80; ii, 106
Der Eichwald brauset, i, 201
David, Castle of, i, 12
Davies, Sir H,, i, 108
Davos, i, 107
Dead Sea, i, i5
Deakin, Mr, A,, i, 85, 91
Deborah, i, 265
Dee, ii, 177
Delgaty, ii. 178
Delhi, i, 84 ; ii, 157
Dempster, Miss, i, 62
Denbigh, Lord, ii, 185, 187
Denham, poet, ii, 138
Dennis, Mr,, i, 234, 235
Denormandie,, M,, i, 64
Depretis, Signor, i, 48
Derby, Lord, i, 96, 132, 162 ;
ii, in, 141, 145
 Lady, i, 75, 105
Descartes, ii, 90
De Tabley, ii, 10, 16, 73, 126
Deutsche Liebe, i, 224
Deutsche Literatur Gesckickte, ii.
157
De Vere, Aubrey, ii. 24
Devonshire, Duchess of, i. 126
—  House, i. 76
Dial House, i. 164

INDEX

249

Dialogue to the Memory of Alex
ander Pope, ii. 143
Diana of the Ephesians, i. 102
Diary of a Lover of Literature,
ii. 144
Dickens, i. 144
Dictionary of the Bible, ii. 22
Diderot, ii. 188
Dijon, i. 62
Dillenburg, i. 199
Dilettanti, i. 149 ; ii. 25
Dio-Csesarea, i. 274
Disraeli, i. 187; ii. 10, 149, 150,
igi, 192, 193
Dobratsch, i. 195
Dobrudscha, the, i. 218
Dobson, Austin, ii. 115, 133,
143
Dodson, i. 126
Dodgson, General, ii. 157
Dollinger, i. 104 ; ii. 105, 194
Dolomites, i. 106
Domesday Book, i. 121 ; ii. 159
Domnitza Balasa Church, i, 217
Dor, i, 23 ; ruins of, ii, 47
Dorat, ii, 158
Dorcas, i, 10
Dorothy Forster, i, 209; ii, 16
Dothan, ii, 55
Douglas, Mr,, ii, 181
 Isle of Man, ii, 164
Doyle, Sir Francis, i, 160, 161,
164
Drummond, Sir E,, i, 75
Drum, ii, 179
Dream of Gerontius, ii, 105
Druse, i, 239, 242, 243, 255, 256,
261 ; ii, 81 ; catechism, 36,
37) 38; sanctuary, 292
Dubhn, i, 103
Due d'Aumale, ii, 148
Ducoudray, Father, i, 55
Dufferin, Lord, i, 68, i7g, 241;
ii, 27, 151
 Lady, i, 173
Dundas, Sir David, i, 160, 161 ;
ii, 154
Duomo, Florence, i, 54
Dupont-White, M,, i. 269

Durham, University of, i. 152
Durnford, Bishop, i. 71
Dyer, Thiselton, i. 22, 81, g6,
106; ii. 72, gg, 106, 107,
113

Eastern Life, ii. 92
East India Company, i. 163 ; ii.
109
Ebal, Mount, i, 258; ii, 57, 6g
Eboli, i, 40
Ecbatana, i, 25
Ecce Homo, church of, i, 15, 20
Ecclesiastes, ii, 43
Ecclestiasticus , ii, ig6 t.''
Eden, ii, 34, 178 /;
Edward I., ii, g2 ,
Edinburgh, ii, 180, l8l^ , istle,
181
Eddystone Lighthouse, i, 214 ; ii,
97
Egeria, i, 240
Egidius, i, 121
Egypt, i. 25, 164
Egyptian Church, i, 8 ; officer's
story, ii, 32
El Aksa, i, 14
Elba, i, 4
El Basra, ii, 15
Elchi, ii, 102, 112, 169
El Dustrey, ii. 47, 52
Elegy, Gray's, i. 186
Elephants, i, 113
Elgin, speech at, i, no, 146, 187;
ii, 114, 123
Elim, i, S
Elijah, i, 246, 257 ; scene of
sacrifice, ii, 71
Elijah and Elisha, i, 270, 273
El Kabry, ii, 74
Eliot, George, i, 140, 144
EUiot, Arthur, i, 132
EUzabeth, Queen, i, 168
Elizabeth, Die Heilige, i, 231
EUenborough, Lord, i, 116, 131
Elphinstone, Mountstuart, i. 145
Elysian Fields, ii, 192
Emly, Lord, i. 103

2SO

INDEX

Emmaus, i. 12
Emma, Queen of Sandwich
Islands, i, 147
Emerson, i, 137
Endor, i, 259, 280
Endymion, ii, 192
England •without and within, i,
186
Endsleigh, ii, 155
Englefield Green, ii, 138, 158
Eothen, i, 233 ; ii, 87
Ephesus, i, 34
Ephraim, ii, 59
Epic of Hades, i, 148
Epipolse, i, 38
Episodes in a Life of Adventure,
i, 254
Epistle of Warning, ii, 36
Epizephyrian Locrians, i, 39
Erasmus, i, 121
Erigena, i, 88
Erie, SirW,, ii, 128,
Errington, Sir G,, i, 43, 45, 46,
49, 14S; ii, 118
Erskine, Mr, C, i, 176, 177
 Miss, ii, 156
 Lord, ii, 167
Esarus, i, 40
Escorial, i, 209
Esdraelon, plain of, i, 258, 259,
260, 271; ii, 21, 54, 71
" Esprit des Mortemarts," i, 165
Essais de Psychologic Contem-
poraine, i, go
Es Subebeh, ii, 83, 84
Esther, Queen, ii, 80
Ethelbert, i, isg
Eternal City, ii, 23
Eton, i, 165, 169
Etna, Mount, i, 33, 37 39; ii, gs
Etudes sur le poivu dejob, ii, 33
Euryalus, i, 34
Eusebius, i, 244; ii, 50
Euxine, i, 226
Evarts, Mr,, i, 132, 133, 138, 140
Eversley, Lord, ii, 133
Evreux, Bishop of, i, 239
Exeter, Cathedral of, ii, 152, 153,
156

Exhibition of, 1851, i, 104
Exodus, i, 5
Expanse of Heaven, ii, 42
Exploration in Syria, ii, 21
Eyres, Mr,, i. 24
Faber, F, W,, i, 83, 184; ii, 198
Faerie Queene, i, 125
Fairfax, i, 192
Falloux, M, de, ii, 203
Falmouth, i, 180
Fancy from Fontenelle, ii, 143
Faro, i, 37
Farrar, Archdeacon, ii. no, in
Farrer, F., i. 136
 Mrs. F., i. 15s
Faucigny, i. 59
Fauna of Palestine, i. 268
Faust, i. go, 172
Feast of Trumpets, ii. 5
Feilding, William, ii. 187
Felis jubata, ii. 6
Female suffrage, ii. 202
Fenzi, ii. 135
Ferdinand II. , i, 2og
Ferdinand II, of Naples, ii. ig8
Ferronays, Alexandrine de la, ii.
189
Fersen, Count, i. 183
Feversham, Lord, ii. 160
Field, i. loi
Fife, Lord, i. 132; ii. 135
Findlay, Mr,, i, 97
Fioretti di San Francesco, i, 246
Fitzgerald, Edward, ii, 147, 184
 book plate, ii, 144
 Mrs,, i, 154
FItzmaurice, Lord E,, i, 75
Flora Cibaria, ii, 146
Florence, i, 51, 53, 54, 152
Florentine Diamond, i, 208
Flower, Mrs, Cyril, i, 176
Flowers in Palestine, ii, 8
Flower, Professor, ii, 106
Fliickiger, Professor, i, 60
Forbes Adam, i, i
 James, i, 182
 House, i, 183
Ford, Sir Clare, ii, 158

INDEX

251

Forde, Capt,, i, i, 5, 9
Forster, Arnold, ii, 131
 Mrs, W. E,, ii, 172
Fortescue, Dudley, i, go
Fortnightly Review, i, 148, 186
Forum, i, 47
Foster, Michael, i, 22
Foucher de Careil, M., i, 64
Fox, Mr,, ii, 175
 CaroUne, i, 180, 186, 187,
188
Fox, Charles, ii, 128
Fox GhyU, ii, 172, 174
Fox How, ii, 173, 174, 175
Fra Angelico, i, 45
France, the burning of the, i, 207
Franciscans, i, 245
 Monastery, i. 271, 275
Frank mountain, i. 16
FranquevUle, M. de, i. 150, 153;
ii. 127
Frauenkirche, i. 202
Frederick, Emperor, death of, ii.
116, 132
 Empress, ii. 131, 195
Freeman, ii. 153, 156
Fremantle, i. 156, 157
Freshwater, i. 74
Freycinet, M, de, i, 63
Friederichsruh, i, 211
Friedmann, ii, 78, 80
Fries, Professor, ii, 106
Froude, i, 181, 195, 252; ii, 120
Fulham Palace, ii, 136
Fullerton, Life of Lady G.,\. 269;
ii, 118, ng, 132
Fullerton Lady Georgiana, i, ig
Gaboriau, ii, 193
Gadara, i, 279
Galatz, i, 219
GaUmberti, Monsignor, i, 49
Galitzin, Princess, ii, 188
GaUlee, i, 251, 275
GallipoU, i, 232
Galloway, i, 75
Gamala, i, 277
Garden of Eden, ii, no, 150
Garfield, i, 137

Garibaldi, ii, 169
Garnett, Mr,, ii, 115
Ciskell, Mrs,, i, 121
Gaskell, MUnes, i, 145
Gaza, i, 259
" Geist," grave of, ii, 196
Geneva, i, 59, 263
Gennesaret, i, 275, 277 ; ii, 66,
67. 77. 80
Geography, ignorance of, i, 270
George II,, ii, 120
 IV,, i, 177
Gerace, i, 39
Gerbet, i, 44
Gergesa, i, 277
Gerizim, i, 258 ; ii, 57, 59, 6g
German Emperor, ii, gg, 100
Germany, Crown Prince and
Princess of, i, I4g, 151
Gerusalemme liberata, i, 124
Geschichte des Volkes Israel, ii, gg
G^z.t\.i:, i, 23
Ghika, Prince Ion, i. 218, 236
Ghosts, ii, 137
Gibbon, ii, 88
Gibeonites, i, i6
Gibraltar, Bishop of, i. 70
 straits of, ii, 96
Gibson, ii, 108
Gideon, i, 259
Giessen, i, igg
Gilboa, i, 250, 25g
Gilead, i, 258
Gilgal, ii, 66
Oilman, Mr., i, 18
Gimzo, i. 11
Giorgione, i, 57, 206 ; ii, 135
Giscala, ii, 78
Gladstone, i, 8, 52, 64, 70, 102,
133. 138, 142, 159. 170; ii,
107, no, 141, 156, 181, 184,
185
Glasgow, 1, 133
Glastonbury, ii, 202
Glenelg, Lord, i, 126
Glyn, G,,ii, 18
Gneisenau, ii, 128
Godalming, i, 170
Goethe, i, 3g, i8g

252

INDEX

Golden holly, ii. igs
Golden Horn, i. 228, 230, 231
Golden Treasury, i. 175, 176
Goldsmids, i, 155
Goldsmith, ii, 147
Goltz, Baron von der, i, 227
Gomul, i, 179
Good-night, ii, 143
Gordon, Lady, i, 153
 Sir A., i. 131 ; ii. 112
 of Letterfourie, i. 64
 General, ii. no, 1 50
 Miss Kathleen, ii. 106, 113,
,^31.
Gorlitz, i, 203
Gortscliakoff', i, 75, 128, 129
Goschen,!, 68, 75, 136; ii, 130
131, 177, 190, igi, ig2
Gosling, Mr,, i, 183
Gosse, Edmund, ii, 115, 133
Gotzen, Octavia, Countess, ii, 32
Gounod, i, 225
Graham, Marquis, ii, 1 46
Grahame, John, ii, 72
Grant, General, i, 147
 Sir Charles, i, 108
Grant Duffi Lady, ii. gg
 Arthur, ii. 159
 Evelyn, ii. 114
Granville, Lord, i. 61, 151, 152
Grasse, i. 62
Gray, i. 194
Great Auk, i. 90
Great Desert, ii. 90
Greece, ii. 125
Greek Patriarch, i. 18, 20
Green, Mr., i. 79 ; ii. 144
 Mrs.,ii. 190, 193
Greenwich, i, 102, 153
Greg, Mrs,,i, 5, 76, 89, 155, 170,
201, 202, 234, 271 ; ii, 100,
202
Gregory the Great, i, 44, 245
 Mr,, i, 130
Grenfell, Henry, i, 98, 161 ; ii,
120
Grenville, ii, 145
Greyliard, ii, 92, g4
Griinne, Madame de, i, igS

Guardian, tke, ii, 109
Guatemala, i, 210
Guerin, Eugenie de, ii. 186
Guide Corps, i. 84
Guide to Englisk medals, i. 129
Guido, ii. 135
Guildford i. 168 '
Guindy, i. 53, 59, 65, 86, 112, 114
165, 172, 206 ; ii. 48, 117
Guizot, ii. 193
Gunpowder Plot conspirators, ii.
168
Hackston, ii. 123
Haifa, i. 22, 23, 25, 225, 247, 249,
250, 251, 257, 259, 260, 263,
266, 271, 273, 277, 278, 280;
ii- 19. S3. 59, 72, 74. 76, 77.
78, 82; departure from, 94,
122
Haldane, i. 75
Halicarnassus, i. 236
Halifax, Lord, i. 28, 181 ; ii. 180
HaUiday, i. 108, 156
Plam House, i. 160
Hamilton Gardens, i. 125
 Lord George, ii. 117
 Lady, ii. 120
Hamley, Sir Edward, i. 86
Hampden, i. 53, 139 ; ii. 122
Hampton Court, i. 158
Hanbury, Mr. Thomas, i. 58, 67
Handbook to tke Bible, ii. 39
Handel, i. 225
Hanmer, i, 175
Hansard, i. 160
Hapsburg i. 213
Harcourt, Sir William, i. 77> i°3>
104
Harnai Railway, ii. 27
Harosheth, i, 260
Harrison, Frederic, i. 137, 139,
140, 150; ii, 172
Hartington, Lord, i, 76; ii. 139,
141
Hartwell, i. 175
Hasbany, ii. 82, 92
Hasbeya, ii. 92
Hase, i. 246

INDEX

253

Haskett Smith, i, 251, 252, 255,
256 ; ii, 28, 187
Hauran, ii, 17, 87
Haworth Churchyard, ii, 175
Hawes, i, 169
Hawthorne, i, 54, 55
Hay, Colonel, i, 132, 137, 138,
141, 144, 145, 146
Haymerle, i, 213
Haynald, Cardinal, i, 72
Hazor, ii, 81
Pleath's Court, i, 192; ii. 154
Hebrews, i. 3
Hebron, i. 16
Hecla, i. 172
Hedjaz, ii. 37
Heidelberg, i. 253
Heine, i. 233
Helen of Troy, i. 150
Helix lantkina, i, 266
Hellespont, i, 232, 233
Hengler's Circus, i, 150
Henley, Lady, ii, 2, 168
Henry IL, ii, igo
 V,, ii, 5
Heraclitus, i, 72
Herbert, Sir Robert, i, 104
Herbesthal, i, ig8
Herder, ii, 157
Herd's Hill, i, 123, 182 ; ii, 202
Heredity, instance of, ii, 170
Hermon, i, 25, 250, 270, 278 ; ii,
3, 48, 80, 81, 84, 85
Hermus, i, 234
Hero, i. 233
Herod's circus, ii, 4g
 colonnade, ii, 55
 i, 16 ; ii, 4
 Antipas, i, 27g
Herodotus,-!, 182; ii, 81
Herschell, Lord, i, 98 ; ii, 98,
125, 126, 130, 158
 Sir John, ii, 101
Hershon, Mr., ii. 28
Herstlet, Sir E., ii. 138
Herzegovina, i. 26
Hetzendorf, i. 213
Hewitt, Abraham, i. 146
Hierax Syriacus, i. 268

High Elms, i. 178
Highlanders, i, 1 1
Highlands, Scotch, i, 203
"High Places" in Palestine,
ii, 6
HiUel, ii, 78
Himalayas, i, 268
Hinnom, Valley of, i, 13, 14
Hiram's tomb, ii, 94
Historic Fancies, ii, 8
Historic Towns, ii, 153
Histoire du peuple d Israel, i, 248 ;
ii, n, 97, 145
History of ancient Israel, a short
introduction to the, ii, 1 1
History of England, ii, 156
History of the Popes, i. 54
Hittites, ii, 21
Hoare, Judge, i, 132, 141
Hobart, Lady, ii, 117, 118
¦  Lady Vere, i, 53
Hodgson, Mr, Bryan, i, 59
Hogg, General, i, 2
 Sir James, i, 187
" Hohenrauch," i. 168
Holbein, i, 121, 202
Holborn estate, ii, 140
.  girls' school, ii, 139
Holland, Lady, i, 153
Holwell, ii, 151
Holwood, ii, 145, 146
Holy sepulchre, i, 15
Homer, i, 237; ii, go, no, in
Home Rule, i, isg
Hood, ii, 174
Hooker, i, 67
.  Sir Joseph's medal, ii, 105,
106
Hooper, Mr,, i, g4
Hornby, i, i6g
Horns of Hattin, i, 275
Horton, Mr, Dana, ii, g8
Hosmer, Miss, i, igi
Houghton, Lord, i, 1 26; ii, 1 08,
149
Hovell, Mr,, ii, 131
Howard, Cardinal, i, 44
Howe, Lord, i. 83
Howitt, Mary, i. 57

254

INDEX

Hubner, Baron, i. 65, 88, 114,
159. 163, 166, 167, 205, 206,
207, 208, 2og, 211, 212, 213 ;
ii. 113
Hudson, i. 148
Huleh, Lake, ii. 83, g3
Hume, Mrs., i. 57
Hunin, ii. 82
Hunter, Mr., ii. 179
 W. W, , i, 200
Hursley, i, 120
Hutton, of the Spectator, i, 182
Huxley, i, 107
Hybla, i, 34
Hyde, Laurence, i, 30
Hyderabad, i, 172
Hyksos, i, 29
Hylton, Lord, i, 125
lapygian promontories, i, 40
"Ice mothers," i, 99
Iceland, i. 172
Iberia, ss., ii. 95
Ijon, plain of, ii, 30, 93
Iliad, i, 3 ; ii, 131
Ilkley, ii, 161
Imperial Institute, i, 96
Indian and Colonial Exhibition,
i- 95
India office, ii, 35, 109, 119
Indicohte, i, 131
In einem Kiihlen Grunde, i, 234
Inner Life of Syria, ii, g, gi
lona, i, 72
lonica, i, 72
Iron gates, the, i, 216, 220
Irvine, Mr,, ii, 179
Irving, i, gi
Ischia, ii, 96
lseult, ii, 23
Iskandaruna, i. 247 ; leopards at,
ii. 45
Isola di Sora, i. 43
Israelites, i, 6, 10
Italian affairs, ii, 117
 coinage, i. 2 1 3
Italieniscke Reise, i. 38
Itinerarium Galliae, ii. 179
Ixalus variabilis, ii. 152

Jabbok, i. 279
Jackson, i. 105
 Stonewall, i. 147
Jacobini, Monsignor, i. 47, 49,
50.54
Jacob's well, ii. 57, 59
 dream, ii. 60, 68
Jael, i. 265
Jaffa, i. 9, 10, 22, 25, 32, 136,
258; ii- 7, 33. 59
 gate, i. 20
James I., i. 168
Jumma Masjid, ii. 87
Jassy, i, 63, 2ig
Jaulan, ii, 85, 86
Jebel Attakah, i, 5
Jebel Canaan, ii, 80, 83
Jebel Jermak, ii, 4, 78, 79, 80
Jedideh, ii, 93
J^fS,t, ii. 76
Jehoshaphat, valley of, i, 13; ii,
60
Jehu, i, 2sg
Jenbach, i. 275
Jenicke, Fraulein, i, 201; ii, 17,
152
Jenin, n, 55
Jenk3Tis, Richard, ii, 201
Jericho, ii. 66, 67, 68
Jeroboam, ii. 60
Jerome, ii. 56
Jerusalem, i. 12, 18, ig, 22, 31,
258, 265; ii. 23, 60, 62, 81,
85
Jesuits, i. 2ig, 245
Jews, i. I02 ; ii, 26 ; wailing place
of, i, 20
Jewish Church, i, 264
 Hagiograph, ii, 43
 sentry, i, gg
Jezreel, i, 25g
Jiddah, i, 26
Jish, ii, 78
Joachim, i, 225
 abbot, ii, 45
Joannes Secundus, i, ig3
Jodhpore, i, 105
John the Baptist, i, 12; ii, 56
Johnson, Dr., i. 100, 113; ii. 147

INDEX

255

Joinville, i, 32
Jonah, i, 10, 239
Jordan, i, 16, 244, 250, 259, 261,
278, 279, 280; valley, ii, 62,
65, 66, 67, 68, 80, 81, 82
Joseph, ii, 57 ; legends of, ii, 55
 iL, Emperor, i, 205
Josephus, i, 13; ii, 4, 76
Josiah, i, 259
Jotopata, ii, 76
Jowett, ii, 121
Judaism, ii, 26
Judas Maccabceus, ii, 5
 tree, ii, 29
Judith, ii, 55
Juno Lacinia, i, 40
Jupiter, ii, 97
Jusserand, ii, 123, 131
Justinian, i, 87
Juvenal, i, 35

Kadesh, ii, 21
 Napthali, ii, 81, 82, 84
Kadytis, ii, 81
"Kaiser," grave of, ii, 196
Kalisch, Dr,, ii, 29
Kalnoky, Count, i. 211
Kana el-Jelil, i, 274 ; ii, 76
Kant, ii, go
Kara Bournou, i, 235
Karansebes, i, 215
Karl August, Crown Prince, ii,
Karyatayn, ii, 9
Kastro, Bay of, i, 235
Katamon, ii. 60
Katana, ii. 85
Kattiawar lion, i, I
Kavak, i, 227
Keble, i, 120, 193, 249, 264, 276;
ii, ng, 122, 154, 155, 198
Kemble, Fanny, i, 176
Kennedy, i, 48
Kerr, Father, i, 55
Kersa, i, 277
Kew, i, 81, 197; ii, 107, 113, 139
Khalwet-el-Biyad, ii, 92
Khan Minyeh, i. 276

Khedive, i. 26, 69
Khiva, Khan of, i. 233
Kolapore, Raja of, i. 58
Kiamil Pasha, i. 229
Kidron Brook, i. 16
 Valley, ii. 63
Kieff, ii. 79
Kilia, mouth of Danube, i. 219
Killiecrankie, ii. 72
Kimberley, Lord, i. 60, 77, g6,
106, log, 124, 131, 154; ii.
141
King, Dr., ii. 146
King of Naples, ii. 171
ICinglake, i. 23, 30, 120, 176, 231,
240, 272 ; ii. 85, 102, i6g, 188
Kingsley, i, 188, 189; ii, ng
Kingston Bridge, i, 158
Kinsky, Count, i, 163
Kirjath-jearim, i, 12
Kishon, Brook, i. 25, 247, 251,
260, 265, 271 ; ii. 171
Kitty Clive, ii. 147
Klagenfurt, i. 76, 8g, ^% 155, 195
Klem, Dr, Baynard, ii, 187, 188,
19s
Knox, Mr,, ii, 122
Knutsford, Lord, ii, 140
Kohl, ii, 2
Kolonieh, i. 12, 21
Kosciuszko, i, 205
Kosel, i, 204
Kossuth, ii, 121
Kostenberg, i, 89
Kotagiri, ii, 152
Krio, Cape, i, 236
Kugler, ii, 2, 38
Kustendje, i, 219
KuppoorthaUa, i. 137; Kunwar
of, i, 158
Labouchere, i, 131
Lacaita, i, 54, 56, 79, 152; ii,
"7. 130, 134
Lacordaire, i, 153, 209
Lady Beatrice, yacht, ii, 45
La Ferronays, i, 43; ii, 189
La France, ss,, i, 81
Lamartine, i, 48, l6g

256

INDEX

Lammenais, i. 209
Lamoriciere, i. 109
Lancaster, Duke of, ii. 109
 Herald, ii. 121
Land and the Book, the, ii. 22,
3°
Land of Gilead, i. 261
Landor, W, Savage, i, 2, 52 ; ii,
loi, 168
Landseer, ii, 24
Lane Poole, Stanley, ii, 14, 16
Langport, ii, 123, 124
Lannion, i, 178
Lansdowne, Lord, ii, 120, 130
Larnaca, i, 239
La Roche en Breny, i, 104
Larkbeare, i, 193
Lascelles, Sir Frank, i, 216, 220,
221, 225
Lateran, i, 49
Latroun, i, 11
Lauenburg, i, 211
Laurentius Valla, i, 36
Law Courts, i, 85
Lawrence, Lady, ii, 164
Layard, Sir Henry, ii, 112
Lazarists, i, 245
Leander, i, 233
Lebanon Range,, i, 24, 25, 23g,
243
Lebonah, ii, 58
Lecky, i, ig2
Lee, General, i. 7g, 148, 154
Lefevre, George, i, 75, 137, 138;
ii- 133
Le Grice, Mr. Val., i. 184
Leighton, i. I4g
Lemaitre, M., i. 64
Lembach, i. 52
Lentini, i. 36
Leopards in Palestine, ii. 7
Leopold I., i. 207
Leopoldsville, i. 172
Le Pigautier, i. 68
Leros, i. 236
Leuthen, i. 204; ii. 157
Leveson Gower, F., i. 142, 148,
152; ii. n6
Leyden, i. 266

Lichtenstein, Princess, i. 205
Liddon, Canon, ii. 105, ig4
Lieven, Madame de., i. 142
Ligne, Prince de, i. 165
Liguria, an Easter Holiday in,
i, 60
Lilac blossom, ii, loi
Lili (Goethe's), i, 59
Limasol, i, 238
Lincoln, Abraham, i, 144, 145
L'Inde Anglaise, i, 126
Linnean Society, ii, 105
Linnffius, ii, 106
Liris, i, 43
Lisbon, i. 194
Liszt, i, 231
Litany river, i, 244
 valley, ii. 93
Literary society, ii. 127, 193
Little Blue Ribbons, ii. 143
Liverpool, Lord, i. 70
Lloyd, Mrs., i. 82
Lloyd, Watkins, i. 126
Locke, ii, 90
Lockhart, Sir Simon, i, 1 54
Lockyer, Norman, i, 96
Locock, ii, 126
Loggia de Lanci, i, 54
London Gazette, i, 162
Longevity, i, 243
Longfellow, Mr, Samuel, i. 138
Longworth, i. 138
Lome, Lord, i. 149
Lopes, i. 212
Losely, i. 168
Lothair, ii. 149
Lotto, i. 207
Loughrigg, ii, 174, 176
Louis XVIII,, i, 157
 Philippe, ii, 149
Louise, Princess, i, 149
Lowell, i, 132, 152; ii. 129, 133,
141
Lowenstern, Baron, i. 190
Lowlanders, i. n
Lubban, Khan of, ii, 58
Lubbock, Sir John, i, 80,95, 163,
165, 178, 179, 210; ii. 102,
no, 190, 192

INDEX

257

Lucan, Lord, i, 74
Lucy of Charlecote, i, 151
Lagos, i, 215
Lumley, Sir John, i, 43
Lumsden, Sir Peter, ii, 149, 150
Lusatia, i. 204
Lushington, Professor, i, 133
Lusignan, Guy de, i, 239
Luxembourg, i, 63
Lyall, Sir Alfred, poem, i, 83,
106, 268; ii, 119
Lydda, i, n
Lymington, i, 96
Lynch, ii, 7
Lyons, i, 107
Lyra Apostolica, i. 120; ii. 154
Lysander, i. 233
Lytton, i. 71, 210
Macaulay, i. loi; ii. 156
"Macedonia's Madman," i. 8
Mackenzie, i. 175
Mackinnons, i. I
Mackintosh, Sir James, i. 177
Maclaren, Mr. Duncan, ii. 182
Maclellan, i. 148
Maclean, Dr., ii. 106
Macleod, Norman, ii. igg
Macnaghten, Lord, i. 133
Macpherson, Sir IL, i. 115
 Miss, ii, 28
Madonna della Seggiola, i, 202
 Sistine, i, 202; ii, 104
Madras, i, 33, 38, 45, 4g, 55, 85,
114, 115, 116, 145; prize
giving at, ii, gg, 103;
Museums, 152
 Governorship of, i, i n
 Governor of, i, 114, I2g
Madrid, ii, 28, 183
Maestricht, ii, 10
Magdala, i, 276
Magnin, M,, i. 63
Mahommed, ii, 36
Mai, Cardinal, i, 44
Maine, Sir H,, i, 77, 120, 121,
135; death of, ii. 33, 34, 35,
ng
Majano, Benedetto da, 1. 53 B

Malesherbes, ii. 203
Malet, Sir Edward, ii. 155
Mallet, i. 62, 136, 173, 176; ii.
33. 35, log, 138
 Bernard, ii, 102
 Sir Louis, i, 145, 184
Malta, i, 33
Malton, ii, 160
Malthus, ii, 90
Mamelukes, i, 9
Manasseh, ii, 71
Manchester, fine art exhibition,
ii, 2
Mandaeans, ii, 16
Mandrake, ii, 14, ig3
Manfred, i, 194
Manning, i, 104, I5g, ig4
Mansura, ii, 77
Marathon, i, 6
Marble Faun, i, 54
Marburg, i. 199
Marcellus, i, 34, 176
Mar Elias, i, 18
Margesson, Lady Isabel, i, 159
Maria Theresa, i, 5, 208, 209
Marie et la Croix, i, 18
Mariette Bey, i, 27, 28
Marius, i, 43 ; the epicurean, i, 45
Maronites, i, 24
Mar Saba, monastery of, ii, 64
MarseiUes, i, 62, 235
Marseillaise, i, 139
Marsh, Mr,, ii, I2g
Marshall, Honoria, ii, 164
Maskelyne, i, 108; ii, 131
Marlborough House, i, g6
Marmora, i, 232
Martha and Mary, i, 16
Martial, i, 43
Martineau, Miss, ii, g2, 175
Martyrs, vaUey of, i. 270
Marx, Karl, i, 60
Mary Magdalene, i, 276
Masulipatam, i, g5
Maud, ii, 103
Maurice, ii, 119
Maxims, ii, 198
Maximilian, Emperor, i. 223
Max Miiller, i, 80, 224

258

INDEX

MaxweU, Sir H,, i, 178
 Stirling, i, 161
M'Nabb, Sir Donald, i, 75
M'Veagh, ii, 120
Meade, i, 104, 108
Mecca, i, 26
Mecklenburg, Duke, John of, i.
200
Megara, i. 34; ii. 23
Megiddo, i. 259; ii. 3, 21, 53;
waters of, 54, 70, 73
Mehadia, i, 215
Meir6n, ii, 78
Mejdel, i, 276
Melchites, i, 272
Meleager, i, 279; ii, 174
Melly, G,, i, r8i
Melville, Canon, i, 121, 122
Mimoires dun Royaliste, ii, 203
Menagiana, i, 174
Meneptha, ii, 39
Mensa Christi, i, 272
Menschikoff, i, 161
Mentone, i, 54, 61, 62, 68, 69,
195
Merivale, Herman, ii, 34, 165
Merom, Waters of, i, 80, 83
Merton, i, 84, 170; Warden of, ii,
129
Messina, i, 37, 39
Mes Contemporains, i, 208
Metaponto, i. 40
Metawileh, i. 245; ii. 81, g3
Metcalfe, Lady Dempster, ii. 140,
181
Meteora, ii. 44, 45
Methven, i. 177
Metternich, i, 162, i8g
Meurin, Bishop, i, 55
Meyendorf, Madame de, i, 200
Meysey Thomson, Lady, i, 145
Michell, Mr Roland, i, 238
Michmash, i, 21
Midhat, Pasha, ii, 188
Midhurst, ii, 127, 128
Midleton, i, 124, 169, 170 ; ii,
120, 138
Milde, Madame von, i, 200
Military marches, ii, 129

MiU, J, S,, i, 33, 134, 145. 186, ,
187, 192; ii, go
MiUer, Hugh, i, 146
Milman, Henry, i, 148, 151
Milner, Sir Alfred, i, 75, 177
Milton, i. ng, 176; ii. 128
Minchmoor, ii, 113
Minghetti, i, 45, 51
Minto, Professor, i, loi
Miriam, song of, i, 5
Miscellanies, i. 23, 2g
Mitford, Miss, i. 175
Mithilia, ii. 55
Mitylene, i. 234, 235
Mivart, St. George, i. 155, 182; ii.
106
Mizpeh, i. 12, 16
Moab, Mountains of, i. 16, 20
Moberly, Dr., i. 71
Mohl, Madame, i. 64, gg
Moldavia, i. 2ig
Molesworth, Mr,, i, loi
Moli^re, i, 130
Moloch, i, 14
Molt, the, i, 181, 240
Monaco, i, 61
Monasterace, i, 40
Moncrieff, Lord, ii, 181
Mongolian, i, 29
Monk Bretton, i, 126
Monsabre, i, 153
Montacute, i, 123
Montalembert, i, 53, 104, 1 30
Montauto, villa, i, 58
Monte Carlo, i, 61
Montenegrins, i. 26
Monte Pellegrino, i, 201
Moon, the, ii, 5
Moore, Mr., i. 18, 21 ; ii. 62
Moore, Thomas, i. 82; ii. 134
Moorcroft, i. 30
Morat, i. 208
Mordtmann, Mr,, ii, 9
Morelli, ii, 135
Moretto, i, 206
Morgan, Delmar, i, 172
Morier, Sir Robert, ii, 138,
139
 Victor, ii, 133

INDEX

259

Morley, John, i, i86, 188; ii,
188
 Henry, ii, 124, 143
Moroni, i, 57
Morrison, Mr, Alfired, ii, 115
 Mrs, Alfred, ii, 108
Morshead, i, 150
Mortola, La, i, 69
Moses, wells of, i, 5
Mosque of Omar, i, 13, 15
Motley, ii, 150
Moultrie, i, 71
Mount Abu, ii, 48
Mount Edgecumbe, Lord, i, 74
Mount of Olives, ii, 60, 63
Mount Vernon, i, 132
Mount Zion, i, 13
Moujik, Russian, i, 15
Moxon, i, 175
 Miss, i, 93
Muir, Sir William, ii. 181
Mukhna, ii, 57
Mukhtar, Pasha, i. 26
Mun, Robert de, i, 62, 87
Miinster, Count, i, 93
Murray's Handbooks, i, 8, 19, 40,
213; ii, 96, 179
Musset, Alfred de, i, 129
Mutessarif, i, 251
Mysore, Maharaja of, i, 73
Nablous, Valley of, ii, 56, 68, 6g,
80
Nachtlager %u Granada, i, 206
Nain, i, 25g, 280
Nakura, ii, g4
Napier and Ettrick, Lord, i, 8i
 Sir Charles, ii, 125
 of Magdala, Lord, i, 154
 Sir William, ii, 116; Life
of, ii, 165
Naples, i, 3g, 40, 42, 43, 48; ii,
96
Napoleon, i, g, 79, 134, 148, 190;
ii, 74, 124, 125
 Ill,, i, 162, 167
Narcissi in Palestine, ii, 8
Nachid Pasha, i, 24
Nassouhy Bey, i. 24

Nathalie Narischkin, i, 10
Nation in Arms, a, i, 227
Natural History Museum, i, 105;
ii, ig8
Natural History of the Bible, ii,
6
Nausikaa, ii, 17
Naxos, i, 38
Nazareth, i, 25, 260, 271, 273,
274. 275, 280; ii, I, 14, ig;
22, 80, ig4
Neander, Anna, ii, 157
Neapolis, i, 33
Nebo, Mount, i, i6
Nebrodian range, i, 34
Neby Musa, ii, 65
Neisse, i, 203
Nelson, ii. 120
Nemesis of Faith, ii, 120
Nepenthe, i, 176
Nesselrode, i, 189
Newhailes, ii, 180
New Hall, Essex, ii, 10
Newman, i, 38, 120; ii, 154
 Francis, ii, 121
Newnham College, ii, 109
Newport, Lord, ii, 150
Newton, i, 100, 126, 149
New York, communication with
London, ii, 73
Nice, i, 58
Nicholas, Sir H,, i, 82
 Emperor, i, 99, 161
Nikaria, i, 236
Nile, i, 7
Nilgiris, i, 105
Nimr, or leopard, ii, 7-
Nineteenth Century, i, 160
Niseros, i, 236
Norfolk House, i, 145
Notes from, a Diary, i, 2, 41
Notes of an Indian Journey, i, 2,
53
North, Miss, i, 81, 86, 95
Northampton, Lord, i, 152
Northbrook, Lord, i, 22, 30, 98,
106, 108; club, 108, no,
in, 113, 131, 153, 179; ii,
119, 139, 141. 150

26o

INDEX

Northumberland, i, 154
North-west Frontier of India, i,
179
Norton, Charles, i, 30
Notre Dame de Sion, i, 1 8, 64 ;
ii, 61
Nouveaux Voyages aux isles de
rAm,irique, i, 182
Nozze Aldobrandini, i. 44
Nubar pasha, i. 26, 164
Nun danket alle Gott, ii. 157
Nunnington Hall, ii. 1 5g
Nun of Arrouca, the, ii. 114
Nuremberg, i. 221

Obermann once more, ii. 189
Obi river, ii, 139
O'Brien, Mrs,, i, 88
Obrist, Madame, i, 231 ; ii. 17
Oder river, i. 204
Odescalchi, Prince, i. 50
Odyssey, i. 3, 38 ; Butcher and
Lang's, ii. 96
Oliphant, Lawrence, i. 23, 195,
206, 225, 247, 249, 251, 253,
254, 255 ; ii, 20, 21, 102
Olivet, i, 20
Olives, Mount of, i, 16
Olivieri, i, 235
Olympus, the Mysian, i, 23 1
Old Testament, ii, 2
Omar Beg, ii, g
Omar Khayyim, ii, 184
Onchan Harbour, ii, 167
One Ash, ii, 163
Ootacamund, i, 53, 114, 180, 227;
ii, 28
Ophrah, i, 16
Opitz, i, 203
Oppeln, i, 204
Order of the Holy Sepulchre, ii, 10
Orengo, Palazzo, i, 58, 60, 69
Oriental Plane, ii, 74
 poetry, ii, 184
Origines de la Bible, i, 3
Origines du Ckristianisme, ii, 38
Origen, i, 244
Orion, constellation of, i. 227

Orleans, Princess Helena of, ii.
183
Orlich, Madame von, !. 145
Ormonde, i. 131
Orontes river, i. 242 ; ii. 81
Or San Michele, i. 57
Orvieto, ii. 98
Ostend rabbits, ii. 25
Ostia, i. 44
Ottery St. Mary, i. 192 ; ii. 153 ;
junction, 155
Ovid, i. 194, 219
Owen, Professor, i. 82, 118 ; ii. 88 ;
medal, 105, 170
Oxenham, Henry, ii. 104
Oxford, i. 159; fritillary, 102;
Union, 151 ; ii. 180

Paderborn, i. igg
Psestum, ii. 70
Paget, Sir Augustus, i. 210, 211 ;
ii, 207
 Sir James, i, 80 ; ii, 214
Pagos, Mount, i, 234
Palais Royal, ii, I4g
Palestine, i, g, 24 ; size of, ii.
3 ; Exploration Fund, 35 ;
central, 71
Palgrave, i. 175
Palma Vecchio, i. 202, 206 ; ii. 35
Palmerston, Lord, i. 81, loi
Panmure, Lord, i. 161 ; ii. 123
Pantaleoni, Madame, i. 45
Paradiso, ii. 45
Paraguay, i. 212
Paris, i. 62, 68, 242
Parker, Theodore, i. 146
Park Lane, No. 28, i. loi
Pasquin, i. 246
Pater, Mr., i. 144, 202
Patmos, i. 236
Paumben Passage, i. 81 ; ii. 198
Pearson, Charles, i. 85, 177
Pease, Sir Joseph, i. 150
Pickis de Jeunesse, ii. 115, 116
PSckeur d'Islande, i. 224 ; ii. 19
Peel, Arthur, i. 169
Peishwa, i. 145

INDEX

261

Pembroke Lodge, i, 84 ; ii, 103
Pendennis, i, 193
Peninsular and Oriental, i, 104
Penjerrick, i. 180
Penrose, Miss, ii, 198
Pensies d'une Reine, ii, lOO
Pentateuch, i. 4
Penzance, i, 180
Pepys, i, 124 ; ii, 166
Persea, i, 261
Percival, Mr,, ii, 167
Pergamos, i, 235
Perpignan, Mdlle, de, ii, 98
Peshawur, i, 84
Pertab Singh, i, 105, 131
Peterhead speech, ii, 1 16
Petersham Park, ii, 103, 172
Peveril of tke Peak, ii, 166
Peyronnet, Mme, de, i, 168, 169
Pharaoh of the Bible, ii, 39
 's daughter, ii, 39
Pharos, i, 7
Pharpar, ii, 84, 85
Phasaelis, ii, 67
Phelips, i. 123
Phenakite, i, 131
Phelps, Mr,, i, 126, 149
Phiala Lake, ii, 83
Philip van Artevelde, i, 175. '77
Philistis, Queen, i, 34
Philistines, i, 10
Phillips, artist, ii, 173
Philo, i, 8
Philosophical Institution, ii, i8i
Phoebus, i, 237
Phocsea, i, 235
Phcenicians, i, 23, 25, 241 ; ii, 247
Phylactery, ii, 51, 52
Pietracatella, i, 41
Pilgrims, i, 269
 Fathers, i, I4g
 Progress, ii, 90
Pio Nono, i, 52, 66, 214
Pitt, ii, 146 ; life of, 146
Pitt and Fox, ii, 133
Pitt Diamond, ii. 124
Pinney, Col., i. 183
Pinturicchio, i. 45
Plato, i. 82

Plevna, i, 80
Playfair, Sir Lyon, i, 164
Plumbers' Company, ii, 185
Polycrates, i, 236
Polignacs, i, 172
Pollock, i, 68, 90, 91, gg, 107, 126,
133, 151. 152 ; ii- 23, 24, 25,
33 ; death of, 204
Polygamy, ii, 130
Pompey, ii, 1 16
Poole, i, 129 ; ii, 145
Pope, ii, 115; celebration com
mittee, 133 ; centenary, 142,
143. 145
Popocatapetl, i, 67
Porta Orientalis, i, 215
Porta Romana, i. 57
Port Said, i, 25, 222 ; ii, 95
Portugal, King of, ii, 24
Poseidonius, i, 88
Post, Dr,, i, 24
Potenza, i, 40
Potomac, i, 132
Potsdam, i, 128
Potocka, Count, i, 165
 Countess, i, 164
Pottinger, Sir Henry, i, 145
Prakova, i, 222
Prater, i, 207
Precipitation, Mount of the, ii, 54
Preces Privatce,i. ng
Preston, Lord, ii, I5g
Principal Shairp and kis friends,
ii, igg
Priscian, i. 87, 88
Procida island, ii, 96
Procopius, ii, 18
Proctor, ii, 42
Procter, Mrs., ii. 185
Prong's Lighthouse, i, i
Propaganda, i, 47
Psara, i, 235
Pusey, i, 120
Putte, Franssen van de, i, 227
Pays, i, 278
Pyramids, i, 30
 the Great, i, 60
Pythagoras, i, 264
Pyx, chapel of, i, 84

262

INDEX

Quarterly Review, i, 120
Queen, The, i, 167 ; ii, ig5
Quentin Durward, ii, 172
Quetta, i, I7g
Quillinan, Mr,, ii, 174, 175

Rachel, tomb of, i, 18
Racine, i, 130
Raderberg, i, 203
Raglan, Lord, ii, l6g
Railway News, i, 162
" Rakotzki March," ii, 142
Rama, i, 21 ; ii. 60, 63
Ramleh, i, n, 21, 258; ii, 7
Ramsay, Mr, ii, I7g
Ramsden, Dr,, i, 120
Rameses II,, i, 28, 29; ii, 21
Rangers' Lodge, i, 153
Ranke, i, 54 ; History of tke
Popes, 50
Rao of Cutch, i, 158
Raovif Pasha, i, 18
Ras-el-tin, i, 8
Rathbone, Mr,, i, 50
Ratisbonne, Alphonse, i, 18; ii,
86
Ravaschieri, Duchess of, i, 42
Ravignan, i, 104, 153
Rawlinson, Sir H,, i, 75, 106
Reay, Lord, i, 1, 68, 150
 Lady, i, 100; ii, 88, 89,
99
Riiit d'une Sceur, i, 41, 44, S3.
202, 229; ii, 12, 26, i8g,
197
Red Sea crossing, i, 6
Rede lecture, i, 135
Reggio, i, 39
Reineh, i, 274, 275
Reminiscences of Court and Diplo
matic Life, i, 189
Renan, i, 3, 23, 62, 63, 73, 200,
224, 241, 246, 248 ; ii. 10,
12, 13. 19. 33. 38. 43. 57.
75. 97. 145
Rendel, Sir A,, i, 75
Rendel, Stuart, ii, 148
Reuter, Fraiilein, i. 200

Reveil, i, 75
Revolution, French, ii, 148
Revue des deux Mondes, i, 3
Reynolds, ii, 126
Rhodes, i, 237, 238
Rhone, i, 202, 263
Rhys, Professor, ii, 168
Ribblesdale, Lady, i, 85
Rieardo, ii, 90
Richards, Admiral Sir F, , i, I ; ii,
99. 195.
Richmond dinner, i, 116
Ridding, i, 22
Riddles, ii, 156
Riesengebirge, i, 203
Rievaulx Abbey, ii, 160, 162
Rinkart, ii, 157
Ripon, Lord, ii, 125
Rive, Madame Lucien de la, i, 59,
61
Rivington, i, 120
Robert Elsmere, i. ig8; ii. 73.
107, 108
Roberts, Sir F., i, 45
Robespierre, i, 202
Robinson, Dr,, ii, 4
Rochdale, ii, 163
Rochechouart, Mme, de, i, 165
Rocky Mountains, i, 67
Roebuck, Mr,, ii, igi
Roehampton, i. 86, 186
Rogers, Mr,, i, 82, lOO, 155,
197
Rolliad, ii, 146
Romano, Giulio, i, 202
Rome, i, 43, 4g, 51 ; ii, 28
Ros, Lady de, i, 173; ii, 158
Rosp, Sir George, ii, 154
Rosemary, i, 61
Rotha, ii, 172, 173, 174, 176
Rothschild, James, ii, 27, 51
Rotterdam, i, 266
Roumania, monument to daughter
of King i, 217 ; finances of,
217 ; wheat-growing in, 2ig;
museum of antiquities in, 220;
Roman milestones, 220 ; visit
to king of, 222 ; queen of, ii.
100, 152

INDEX

263

Roumelia, Eastern, ii, 193
Roundell, Charles, i, 75
Royle, Mr, and Mrs,, ii, 95
Rubaiyat, ii, 147, 184
Rubattino, i, 32
Rubens, i, 206
Rudolph IL, i, 121
Ruffo SciUa, Monsignor, i,
145
Rugby, i, ng, 200
Rumbold, Sir Horace, i, 171
Rushmia, i, 271
Ruskin, i, 7g, g2, 121, 122, 202,
263; ii, 116
Russian affairs, ii, 138, 139
RusseU, Arthur, i, 66, 68, 75, 79,
90, 91, 96, 99, 100, 102, 106,
108, 126, 128, 133, 134, 136,
154. 197; ii- 29, 39, log,
H4, ng, 125, 126, 134, 136,
170
 Lord, ii, 113, 114, 127,
164
 Lady, ii, 103, 172
¦ — - Lord Odo, i, 52, 55
 Lord William, ii, 126
Rustschuk, i, 226
Rutson, i, 68, 82, 107, 108; ii,
159. 160
Rydal, Mount, ii, 74
Rye, ii, 160
Sabsean, ii, 15
Sabians, ii, 15, 16
Sacra Privata, ii, 198
Safed, i, 278; ii, 77, 78, 79, 80,
81
Sagasta, ii, 1 59
Sagras, i, 39
Said Pasha, i, 229
Sainte-Beuve, i, 32
Saladin, i, 258
Salahiyeh, ii, go
Salerno, i, 40
Salisbury, i. 121, 122, 127; ii,
202
Salon, Paris, ii. 98
Salve, i. 41
Samos, i. 236

Samaria, mountains of, i. 22, 258 ;
"- 55. 59. 62, 80
Samaritans, ii. 3
Samothrace, i. 233
Samson, i. n
Samuel, Sir Saul, i. 124
San Adriano, 48
San Gaetano, i. 54
San Marco, i. 57
San Onofrio, i. 58
San Roque, ii. 97
San Spirito, i. 54, 55
Sandeman, Sir Robert, i. 179
Sanderson, i. 87
Sandwich Islands, i. 147
Sankey, General, i, 103
Sannin, i, 23
Santa Clara, i, 166
Santa Maria Novella, i, 53, 54,
58
Sapieha, Prince, i, 163
Sarcophagi, i, 253
Sardinia, ii, 96
Sarepta, i, 25, 244; ii, 47
Saturday Review, ii, 104,
Saturn, ii, 97
Saul, i, 259
Saulcy, de, ii, 7
Savoy, Prince of, i, 213
Scala Santa, i, 49
 T3n:iorum, i, 25
Schatzkammer, i, 208
Scherer, Edmund, i. 59
Schick, Dr., ii, 62
Schiller, i, 201
Schliemann, i, 237
Schloss Peletz, i, 224
Schraolka, i, 206 .
Schonbrunn, i, 212
Schonburg, Princess, i. igo
Sckoolfor Scandal, ii, 178
School of Homer, i, 235
Schopenhauer, i, 75. 202
Schumacher, Mr., i, 271;
21
Schumla, i, 226
Schwarzenberg, Princess, i,
Schweinfurth, i, 29

170,

11, 20,

igo

264

INDEX

Scientific Religion, ii, 102
Scoones, Mr,, ii, 133
Scotsman, ii, 182
Scott, Mrs,, i, 183
 Sir Walter, ii, 165, 175, 181
Scylla and Charybdis, ii, 96
Scythians, i, 259
Sebastopol, i, 75
Sedgemoor, i, 124
Sefuriyeh, ii, 75
Segesta, i, 34
S^gur, M, de, i, 165
Selborne, Lord, ii, 183
 Society, ii, 138
Selection from the Decamero7i, i,
35
Sellar, Mr,, i, 96
Semites of Babylonia, ii, 16
Septuagint, i, 6, 8
Seraglio museum, i, 230
Serapeum, i, 27
Seraskier, Tower of the, i, 230
Sermoneta, Duke of, i, 48, 51
Sermons in the East, ii, 6g
Serpents, Column of the, i, 3
Service, Mr,, i, g6
Sesostris, i, 28
Seychelles, ii, no, 150
Shaftesbury, i, 135
Shaked, ii, 41
Shakespeare, i, 91, 152; ii, 5, 90
Shand, ii, 180
Skannon, P. and O. ss., i. 32,
33 .
Shammai, ii, 78, 81
Sharon, i, 10, 23, 25; rose of, ii,
49, 69
Sharpe, murder of Archbishop, ii,
133
Shaw Stewart, Mrs Maxwell, i,
44
Shechem, ii, 56, 57
Shefa Amr, ii. i
Shelley, ii, 197
Shephelah, i, 9
Sherbrooke, Lord, ii, 130
Shere, i, 197
Shiloh, ii, 58, 59
Sholapore, i, 93

Shunem, i, 259
Siam, i, 229
Siberia, ii, , 139
Sibylline Books, i, 8
Sicily, i, 32, 37, 43
Sidgwick, i, 140
Sidmouth, i. ig3
Sidney, Philip, ii, 150
Sidon, i, 23, 240, 241, 242, 243,
244. 245
Sidonians, i, 23
Siegburg, i, igg
Signorelli, Luca, ii, 98
Sikkim, ii, 151
Sila, i, 40
Sileh, ii, 55
Siloam, ii, 63
Silius Italicus, i, 43
Simeon, Lady, i, 153
 Mrs,, ii, 140, 141
Simeoni, Cardinal, i, 47
Simla, ii. 151
Simon, Jules, i. 62, 269
 Thomas, i. 129
 the Tanner, i. g
Simpson, i. 72
 Miss, i. gg
Sinai, i. 4; ii. 18
Sinai and Palestine, i. ig, 264
Sinaia, i, 222, 223, 224
Sincerus, ii, I7g
Sind, i, 179
Sion College, i, 151
Sisera, i, 260, 265; ii, 32
Siva, i, 83
Sketchley, Mr,, ii, 115, 134
Sligo, Lady, i, g4, 168, i6g
Smith Adam, ii, go
 Goldwin, i, 160
 Henry, i. 116, 122; ii. 35
log, no
 Horace, i. 200
 Sydney, ii. 150
Smithills, ii. 164
Smyrna, i. 234
Sobieski, John, i. 205
SociaUsm in Scotland, i, 37
Socialist, i, I3g, 203
Soldier's Bride, tke, ii. 165

INDEX

265

Solomon, i. 43
Solomon's Porch, i. 14
Soma, i. 22
Somerset, i. 123
Somerton Erleigh, i. 183
Somlauer wine, i. 214
Song of Solomon, ii. 184
Sorbonne, i, 63
Sorceress, ii, 3
Southey, i, 128
Southwell, Bishop of, i, 22, 30
Spalmatori, i, 235
Spanish Finisterre, ii, g7
Spanisk Ladye's Love, i, 183
Spartivento, Cape, ii, g5
Speaker, Mr,, i, 72
Sphene, i, 131
Sphinx, i. 30
Spicer, Mr., ii, 62
Spodumene, i, 131
St. Andrews, University of, i. 182
St. Athanasius, i. 7
St. Augustine, i. 245
St. Bartholomew, church of, i. 102
St. Basil, i. 7
St. Bernard, i. 103
St. Busbequius, ii. loi
St. Catherine, i. 9
St. Dominic, i. 245
St. Francis, i. 245, 246
St. George, i. 7 ; church of, 1 1
St. Giles, Cripplegate, i. 107, 151,
i8r
St. Gudule, i. 198
St. Ignatius, i. 245
St. Jerome, i. 17
St. Louis, i. 32
St, Margaret, ii, 181
Ste, Marie, i, 229
St, Mark, i, 9
St, Michel Montaigne, ii, 178
St, Paul, i. 22; ii, 10, 86; Cath
edral of, i, 99
St, Peter, ii, 269; Cathedral, at
Rome, i, 43; sacristy of, i,
44 . ^
St. Petersburg and London, \. l5l
St, Ronan's Well, ii. 169
St. Sophia, i. 230

St. Stephen's Church at Vienna, i.
212
St. Thomas, i. 7; de Villeneuve,
64
St. Venus, i. 37
Stael, Madame de, i, 75, 200
Stabat Mater, i, 166
Stade, ii, 11, 97
Stagos, Bishop of, ii, 45
Staines, ii, 158
Stamboul, i, 230, 231
Stammhaus, i, 213
Standard, i, 225
Stanhope, Lord, i, 210; ii, 128,
129, 146
 Lady Hester, i, 240
Stanley, Arthur, i. 4, 5, 7, 17, 19,
38, 64, 107, 119, 120, 147,
158, 166, 252, 264, 267; ii,
6g, ng, 199, 200
 Lady Augusta, i, 120
¦  Lady, of Alderley, i, 107
¦  Lyulph, i, 75: ii, 159
 Lord, ii, 125
Stanley' s Life of Arnold, ii. 173
Stansfeld, i. 131
Star and Garter, i. 117, 160;
dinner at, ii, 138
Starkenberg, ii, 75
Star of India, i, 74
Stavelot, Prince, i, 164
Stein-Nordheim, BaronessOctavie,
i- 53
Stella, ii, 150
Sterling, John, i, 180
 Miss, i, 181
Stewart, Sir Donald, i. 84, loi ;
ii, 129
 Miss, i, 126
Stirling, i, 161
 Mr Hutchison, ii, 182
 MaxweU, i, 161
Stockholm, ii, 183
Stonewall Jackson, ii, 161
Stonor, Monsignor, i, 45
'Stork, story of, ii, 31, 32
Story, i, 45, 46, 52, 152; ii, 135,
136
Story of Rosina, ii. 143

266

INDEX

Stourdza, Mr., i. 217
Strabo, i, 237
Straehey, Mr, i, 203
 Sir J,, ii, log
Strafford, Lord, i, 108, 126
Strangford, Lord, i, 82, 225
Strassburg Cathedral, i, 60
Stratford, on Avon, i, gi
 Lord, ii, 112
Stratton, ii, 148, 149, 150
Strid, ii, 162
Strozzi Palace, i, 53
Stubbs, Dr,, ii, igi
Studies in a Mosque, ii, 14
Stuttgardt, i, 201
Styrax, ii, 82
Subiaco, ii, 64
" Sufficiency," ii, I2g
Suffolk, Countess of, i, 82
Suffolk sea phrases, ii. 147
Suez, i. 5; canal, 81
Suleiman districts, i. I7g
Sumner, Miss, i. gg
Sunbury, i, 158
Sunningdale, ii, I3g
Surtabeh, ii, 67
Survey of Western Palestine, i,
265; ii, 32
Switzerland, i, 171
Sychar, ii, 57
Sylvie, or tke May Queen, i, 175
Sylvester, i, 122
Symonds, John Addington, i. 107
Syracuse, i, 33, 36, 38
Syrian bishop, i, 18
 Northern highway to the
Nile, ii, 71
 Stone lore, i, 267
,  travel, ii, 46
Syrmia, i, 50
Szegedin, i, 215
Taanach, ii, 54
Tabor Mount, i, 227, 280 ; ii, 6,
45. 80
Tacitus, Annals of, ii, 190
Taine, i, 64
Taj, at Agra, ii, 87
Talisman, tke, i, 154

Talmud, ii, 28, 29, 67
TaUeyrand, i, IS5_; ii, 25
Tambrapoorney, ii, 87
Tancred, ii, 10, 32, 82; castle of,
276, 278
Tankerville, Lord, i, 210
Tantura, i, 23 ; ii, 48, 50, 85
Taormina, i, 37, 38, 39
Targia, the Garden of Baron, i, 36
Tarichaea, ii, 5, 32, 33
Tartini, i, 225
Tasso, i, 12 ; ii, 141
Taunton, Lord, i, 131
Tavernier, i, 95
Taylor, Father, i, 145, 152
 General, i, 146, 147
 Henry, i, 175; ii, 24
Tayyibeh, ii, 93
Tchernaya, i, 161
Tedder, Mr,, ii, 133
Tel Hiim, i. 276, 277, 279; ii.
194
Tel-el-Kadi, ii. 82
Tel-el-Kebir, i. 6
Tel-es-Semak, i. 269
Temes, i. 215
Temesvar, i. 215
Templars, Knight, i. 254
Temple area, i. 13
 Society, i. 249
Tenedos, i. 233
Tennyson, Lord, i. 74
 Mrs. Lionel, i. 129, 159, 165
Tent work in Palestine, i. 249;
ii, 2
Tephilim, ii, 80
Testudo Ibera, ii, 22
Teutonic Knights, i, 254
Thackeray, i, 193
Thakors, Morvi and Limri, i, 154
Thanatos, i, 159
Thapsus, i, 34
Thasos, i, 233
Thebes, i, 27 ; ii, 23
Theiss, i, 215
Themistocles, i, 232
Theocritus, i, 35, 36, 150
Theodosius, column of, i, 230
Theophrastus, i, 88

INDEX

267

Therapia, i. 227
Tkomas Reynolds, ii, 186
Thomson, Dr,, ii. 22, 30, 31, 127
Thorwaldsen, i. 46, 205
Thothmes IIL, i, 2g; ii, 21
Thring, i, 80, g3, 126 ; ii. 122
Thrupp, i. 193
Tkucydides, i. 35, 36
Thurston, ii. 151, igS
Thyme, i. 61
Tiberias, i. 275, 278, 27g; ii.
86
Tiberius, Emperor, ii. 190
Tibntn, ii, 93
Tierra del Fuego, i, 80
Times, i, 162
Tinnevelly, ii, 87
Tiresias, i. 87
Tirol, i, 196
Titian, i, 57, 206; ii, 104
Titus, Arch of, i, 46
 speech of, ii, 5
Toole, i, 91
Tonnerre, ii, 62
Torrance, Dr,, i, 278; ii, 41
Torrington, Lord, i, 254
Totnes, i, 181
Townsend gems, i, 105
Trades' Union, i, 139
Trachonitis, ii, 3, 87
Travels by Umbra, ii, H2
Transport, military, ii, 117
Transylvania, i, 215
Travers, Mr,, ii, 104
Tree worship in Palestine, ii, 6
Trebizond, i, 233
Trench, Archbishop, i. 175
Trereife, i, 184
Trevelyan, George, i, 79, go, 153;
ii, 120
Tribes on my Frontier, i, 113
Tricoupi, ii, 125
Trinita de Monti, i, 47
TripoU, i, 23, 22g
Tristram, Canon, i, 268; ii, 6, 18,
19, 41
Troad, the, i, 232
TroUope, i, 140
Troodos, Mount, i, 238

Troubetskoy, daughter of Prince,
i, 48
Trower, Bishop, i, 70, 71
Troy, Plains of, i, 232
Triibner, ii, 2, 28
Tiirckheim, Madame de, i, 59
Turgot, ii, 122
Turkish Parliament, ii, 188
Turner, the painter, ii, 144, 165
Turriff, ii, 178
Twenty-one Years' Work in Pales
tine, i, 265
Twickenham, ii, 146; Free
Library, ii, 145, 147
Twiselton, Mr, Edward, ii, 22,
122
' Twixt Greek and Turk, ii, 44
Tynwald HUl, ii, 167
Tyre, i, 25, 244, 247, 269; ii, 21,
22, 23, 32, 94
Tyrrhene sea, i, 40
Uffizi, i, 57
Ukkul, i, 256
Universal History, ii, 2
University of London, i, 96
Urwald, ii, 103
Ussher, Mrs,, i, 62
Val d'Arno, i, 53
Valens, Emperor, i, 220
Valonia, ii, 75, 77, 82
Van de Weyer, ii, 25
Van Dyk, ii, 150
Vatican, i, 44
Vauvenargues, ii, 197
Venables, i, 68, 86, go, gg, 133,
152; ii, 116, 170, 171
Venice, i, 80, 155, 156, 232
Ventimiglia, i, 58
Ventura, i, 2og
Venus, Landolina, i, 36
Verciorova, i, 216
Verney, Mr,, i, 90
Verviers, i, 199
Vesdre, i, igg
Vesuvius, ii, igi
Viaud, i, 224
Victoria gardens, Bombay, i, i

268

INDEX

Victor Emmanuel, ii, 134
Vienna, i, 205, 214, 216
Vigny, Alfred de, i, l6g
Villach, i, 196
VUla Montauto, i, 58
Villa Trecase, i, 41
Violante, i, 202
VioUet-le-duc, i, 223
Virgil, tomb of.
Virgin, birth-place of the blessed,
ii, 75
Viterbo, Signor, i, 155
Vitzthum, Count, i, 161, 162, 223
Vizagapatam, ii. 3
Voltaire, ii. 44, 149
Vomero, i, 41
Votivkirche at Vienna, i, 205
Voyage dans un Grenier, i, 95
Vulgate, i, 77
Waddington, M,, ii, igo, 192
Wade, Sir Thomas, i, 68 ; ii, 205
Wady el Hamfim, i, 276
Wady el Milh, ii, 53 ; view from,
54, 71
Wady-et-Teim, ii, 92
Wady Firah, ii, 66, 68
Wady Ghurundel, i, 5
Wady Malek, ii, 75, 76
Wagner, i, 231
Wales, Prince of, i, g6, g7, 214
Wallachian peasants, i, 215
Wallenstein, i, 201, 208 ,
Walpole, Spencer, ii, 113, 120,
164, 167
 Horace, i, 120
 the Elder, i, 70 ; ii, 127, 128
Walsingham, Lord, i, 85
Walter, Mr,, ii, 122
Wanderer's Nachtlied, i, 201
Ward, Mr, and Mrs, Humphry,
i, 68, 85, g8, ig7. 224; ii,
73, 106, 107, 123, I4g, 172,
173
Wards English Poets, ii, 143
Ward, Mr, and Mrs, Richard, ii,
185
Warren, John, i. 68, 6g, 85, 105,
106, ng, 135, 155, 158, 228

Wars of the Jews, ii. 4
Warton, i, 36
"Washers," ii. 15
Washington, i, 132, 133, 140
Wassa Pasha, i. 24
Waterford, i, go
Watford Court, ii, 168, l6g
Waterloo, i, 134
" Watts's Hers," i, g7
Watts, Mr,, i, igi
Webb, Capt,, i, 213 ; ii, 167
 Mrs,, i, 83, 168
Webster of EdgehiU, i, 150, 174;
ii, 35, 72, 115, 177, I7g
 Forster, i, 4, 131
Weimar, i, 200; ii, 17
 Princess Elizabeth of, i, 200
Welby, Sir R,, 1,98
WeUdon, Mr,, i. 176
Wellesley, Lord, i, 174
Wellhausen, ii, n
WeUington, Duke of, i, 174; ii,
126, 128, 129, 158
Wells, ii, 201 ; Cathedral of, 201
Wellwood, Lord, ii, i8l
Westminster Abbey, i, 107, 135,
147, 198 ; of Poland, 205
Wetzlar, i, 199
Wey river, i, 170
Wharfe, the, ii, 162
Whateley, Archbishop, ii, 127
WheweU, i, 82
Whitbread, i, 108
White, Mr Grant, i, 186
 Sir William, i, 223, 227, 228
White Doe of Rylstone, The, 162,
163
Whitney, Constance, i, 151
Whytehead, i, 183, 197
Wick Hill, i, 123
Widdin, i, 216
Wilberforce, Bishop, ii, 123, 146
WUd beasts in Palestine, ii, 6
Will and a Way, A, i. ig
William, ii, 156
 the Silent, i, igg
Williamstown, i, 137
Willis' Rooms, i, 106
Wilson, Bishop, ii. ig8

INDEX

26g

Wilson, Professor, ii, 174
Wiltshire, i, 107
Winchester, Mayor of, i, 22
Windermere, i, 277 ; ii, 172
Windischgraetz, i, 213
Winsloe, Colonel, i, ig7
Windsor, i, 74; ii, ig5
Wirtgen, i, ng
Wit and Wisdom of Lord Beacons
field, ii, I4g
Woburn Abbey, i, i4g, 152, i7g
Wolff, Drummond, i, 26
Wolmer, Lord, i, g7
Wolseley, Lord, i, 7g, 106, 124,
134; ii, 116
Wolsey, Cardinal, i, 134
Wombwell, Sir George, i, 138
Worcester Cathedral, ii, 166
Wordsworth, i, 105 ; ii, 24, ng,
127, 162, 173, 174, 175, 184
Worthersee, i, 76, 155, 196
Wright, Mr,, i, 192
Wurmser, Mr., ii. 26
Wyndham, Percy, i. 98

Xerxes, i. 233

Yates Thompson, i, 127, 140
Yam6n, village of, ii, 55
Yenisei, river, ii, 139
Yeovil, i, 122
York, ii, 175
 House, i. 12, 30, 82, 84, 96,
116, 158, 165, 169, 171, 172,
186, 192, 198; ii, 98, 102,
106, 113, 125, 127, 138, 145,
155, 159. 166, 169, 172, 182,
183
 minster, i, 147 ; ii, 161
Young, Mr,, ii, 181
Yule, i, 95, 133 ; ii, 124
Yunus, Khan Neby, i, 239

Zebulon, ii, 23 ; hills of, 75
Zillerthal, i, 275
Zimmarim, i, 254; ii, 48, 51, 55
Zodiacal light, ii, 48

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