Manners and Customs OK THE FRENCH 1815. TEN HAND -COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS FROM THE ORIGINAL COPPER-PLATES. Q[ "I give theft Booh1 for the founding of a. College in tki$ Colony" • ILIIIBIS^JSrar • Bought with the income of the Edward Wells Southworth Fund, 191$" 250 copies only, of which this is 5*£o. Signed.. _r€-r. ff/itrA/fttr/r/f . A,; ,//?,¦/ rv/ _ZV C/'trrAsf:/f?~-a -pi/;/ j/>//,j _V/^,/ JCI^/ZZ [250 Copies only Manners & Customs OF THE FRENCH Facsimile of the scarce isis edition. WITH TEN WHOLE-PAGE AMUSING AND PRETTILY TINTED ILLUSTRATIONS PRINTED FROM THE ORIGINAL COPPER PLATES (COPPER PLATES NOW DESTROYED) I893. LONDON : The Leadenhall Prefs, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall Street, E.C. Henry Sotheran & Co., 140, Strand and 37, Piccadilly, W. Simpkin, sMar shall, Hamilton, Kent Sr Co., Ltd: 3{ew York : Charles Scribner's Sons, 743 Sr J45, ^Broadway, 7Js> The Leadenhall Press, Ltd: 50, leadenhall street, london, e.c. T 4,633- "7^Q sending forth the following small "Foot-note \^q to History," a few lines in explanation of the re-issue of " Letters from France " may perhaps be of interest. The volume was published, as the fac-simile title-page shows, in 1815, by Mr. Thomas Sotheran, the father of the writer of these notes. It was pro bably his earliest publication, and was issued from his shop in Old Broad Street, before his removal to Little Tower Street, an address, perhaps, still known to many elder denizens of London City. The little book itself, however, had long been for gotten, and the writer had not seen a copy for many years. On turning out the accumulations of over three-quarters of a century at his late address, No. 136, Strand, a copy, together with the original engraved copper-plates from which the illustrations were printed, turned up. On glancing over it once more, the vivacity of the text and the amusing character of the illustrations seemed to suggest that a limited re-issue might be acceptable to the present generation as a reminiscence of the habits of the French and the state of Paris during the Peace before the "Hundred Days" and fateful Waterloo. On the writer showing the book to his friend Mr. Andrew Tuer, of the Leadenhall Press, he found him of the same opinion ; hence this reproduction. Who the author was is doubtful ; but the writer has heard his father say that he was one Benjamin Rotch, a Middlesex Magistrate. Perhaps the solution of the mystery may yet be thrashed out in the pages of Urates and Queries. Henry Sotheran. 140, Strand, London, W.C. September, i8pj. LETTERS FRANCE: WRITTEN BY A MODERN TOURIST IN THAT COUNTRY; AND DESCRIPTIVE OF SOME OF THE MOST AMC8IN0 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE FRENCH. WITS CHARACTERISTIC ILLUSTRATIONS, FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN ON THE SPOT; By M. S. LONDON : PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, AND SOLD BY T. SOTHERAN, N». 3, OLD BROAD STREET. 1815. PREFACE. The following Letters are supposed to be a correspondence between an old English Alderman, illiberally prejudiced in favor of his own Country, and his Nephew ; who, de pendant on him, is bit by the mania to visit the Continent, and obtains his Uncle's permis sion, and the use of his purse, to gratify his inclinations. Distressed at the Old Man's prejudices, he endeavours to overcome them, partly by humouring and partly by opposing them. He at first tries to reason his Uncle out of his opinions: but, finding the attempt una vailing, he insensibly leads him on, by show ing the humourous and pleasing side of the picture, till he gradually excites a wish in the Alderman to become an eye-witness to the scenes he represents, and at length com pletely gains his point, by making or rather by inducing his Uncle to leave that land which he had vowed never to quit for an iv PREFACE. hour, and visit the country he had abjured for ever as unworthy the trouble or conde scension of a visit from an Englishman. The Author has often grieved over the expression, which was once let fall from a high quarter in the Senate, and which has since tended greatly to strengthen the prejudices which have so long subsisted between this country and France, by afford ing a citation to support the opinions of the ignorant and illiberal. The Author alludes to the following, " That the French are our natural enemies ;" and, should this work in any degree tend to do away with this idea, he will feel more than recompensed for his trouble. The Author feeling the low value of his work, is encouraged in the hope of the good that may result from its publication, by the idea that it is perhaps more likely, from its nature, to fall into the hands of the un fortunate proselytes of the sentiment alluded to than any other set of people. The pretensions of this work being very small indeed, the Author entertains a hope that he may not fail in his object. He covets not that his work should be deemed humourous, witty, or clever, but only hopes that it may amuse an idle hour. LETTERS prom FRANCE. LETTER I. Harley Street, Cavendish Square, September 1, 1814. DEAR TOM, I see what it is, you want to go to France. — Well you are welcome to my purse, even though it be to make use of it in that vile country. — Go, but remember, young men are fickle, pleased with novelty, and fond of playing the ape. Mark me well — The French are our natural enemies. Never forget that maxim ; and, if you bring home one bow, one twist, or one shrug from that country — bear in mind that my property is my own ; and, thanks to the Laws of Old England, is at my own disposal. 2 LETTERS FROM I am not prejudiced — no — for I tlike a good bottle of Champaign as well as any man, and none the less for its coming from France ; nor do I wish to be thought illiberal, for I give you leave to bring back as much silks and lace for your sisters and cousins as you may think proper ; but if you learn to take snuff, or . Good by Tom ; you know I am not apt to be prolix. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. FRANCE. 3 LETTER II. Havre de Grace, Sept. 12, 1814. MY DEAR UNCLE, Your nephew is at length in France, and is not more surprized to find himself there than those about him seem to be at the event, for I have not been able to stir out of the house as yet without being followed, like a dancing bear, by a host of children ; who, by the various reproachful changes they rung upon the word Eingleese, made me in voluntarily, and for the first time in my life, blush to own my country, and almost query with myself if there was any thing disgraceful in the appellation. If this feeling will wear off with custom, it is not likely to continue over another day. We had a tolerably fine passage across from Southampton. Our freight consisted of five deadly sick ladies, whose tongues, for once in their lives, were restricted to the utterance of one single word, Steward, which rapidly passed through the various intonations which the different degrees of sickness could 4 LETTERS FROM afford; its utterance commencing with that certain warm feeling that universally pre cedes sea-sickness, in a patient hope that the Steward would be attentive should they stand in need, or rather lie in need of his assis tance ; then, when the certain cold sensation succeeded, changing into an impatient hope that the Steward was at hand ; then, arriving at its climax when the sudden moment came, into a violent call of " Steward " ! and after this direful time, varying only with the mo mentary relief of the sufferer, but never rising above the low tone of hopeless despair. In the same cabin with these ladies were two gentlemen, groaning alternately to each other, but disdaining to call for the Steward, who they could but perceive was fully occu pied with their unfortunate dames. On the deck sat a row of four qualmish gentlemen, and about the deck walked a row of six gentlemen sailors in healthy pomp, and some of whom had the audacity to deem themselves competent to assist when ship duty was to be done ; and, having first given their gloves to "my man John" to hold, would display a ring-loaded set of fingers on a well-greased traversing rope ; and, finding it, to their utter astonishment, dirty, would FRANCE. 5 wipe their hands on a scented India handker chief, and put on their gloves again with an air of as much self-satisfaction and appro bation as if they really had done something. We arrived here yesterday. I have not yet seen a Diligence, but I purpose starting in one to-morrow for Rouen ; and, after the account I have received of them, I assure you it requires no small degree of resolution to make up my mind to the undertaking. I know you are an enemy to all kind of verbal gratitude, where you know it to exist in the heart, I shall therefore be silent on the score of your goodness, which has enabled me to date my letter from this part of the world. With best compliments to Lady Crusticorn, I have the honor to be Your dutiful nephew, THO. SEEBEIGHT. P. S. Inclosed I send you a sketch of a Havre Pilot, the first effort of my pencil on landing. To Sir CRUSTICORN QUERY, Bart. LETTERS FROM LETTER III. Rouen. MY DEAR UNCLE, When I last wrote to you I was in a state of anticipating agony, at the prospect of a day's journey in a French Diligence, but I assure you I found the reality far better than I had hoped : there was certainly enough to complain of, but far more to ridicule. I rode, myself, in the Cabriolet or Gig in front, with two others, squeezed in sufficiently tight to travel over the roughest road without shaking ; inside were crammed nine persons in the same compressed situation with myself, two of them smoking, and with the seats so ingeniously contrived that no one can de scend without the consent, and sometimes the descent, of thewhole ; behind was a huge overgrown basket, loaded like a waggon ; and on the top another smaller one, containing the luggage of the travellers and a man to watch them. This sort of mongrel-bred machine, half-waggon and half-coach, was drawn by five horses, three leaders abreast FRANCE. 7 and two wheelers, and driven by a man seated on the near leader ; but the drawing I send you with this will give you a far better idea of it than my pen possibly can. The internal and external arrangement being completed, a violent cracking of a huge whip which our postilion used with both hands at once, leaving the reins tied to a ring in the pummel of his saddle, together with a variety of hoo-eeps, he-arks, argees, and a la routes, put this curious concern in actual motion, and gave me a fit of laughing, which astonished all and I am sorry to say hurt the feelings of some of my companions, to whom however I apologized for my rudeness by pleading the novelty of the scene. We passed through the town of Havre through many narrow, streets at a rapid pace, and turned corners with a dexterity that would have puzzled C. B. himself. The stopping and starting of this vehicle was an operation generally of five minutes' duration, the horses' mouths being as little susceptible to the bit as their hides were to the whip. I had taken it into my head that these Diligences were very rough, but I soon found out my error, for they are hung on thick straps 8 LETTERS FROM of leather which have a great elasticity in them ; and at the end of this day's journey I feel not the least fatigued, so that on the whole I do not so much despise or dread this sort of conveyance ; though at the same time, if one of them were to parade down St. James's, I doubt if the whole city of London would not turn out to behold this Travelling Phoenomenon. It is late so I must to bed. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. FRANCE. LETTER IV. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, Your first letter was a good one ; I liked it much ; your second not so good. I am sorry to see you are so soon becoming reconciled to those wretched Diligences, which appear to me to be about one hundred degrees worse than our long-bodied coaches; but I was glad you stood your journey in them so well. Learn, young man, to have a better opinion of the citizens of London, who never " all turn out," as you express it, but on the glorious Lord Mayor's day ; and the man who would not turn out on that day ! Good by Tom. Your Aunt is ill. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. 10 LETTERS FROM LETTER V. Rouen. MY DEAR UNCLE, The affecting account you give of my dear Aunt's indisposition does not, I must say, leave me free from apprehension an her account, but flattering hope still cheers me, and a confidence that you will be particular to keep me informed of her health relieves me in some measure from anxiety. My spirits being low, you must excuse me this once if my letter partakes of a serious nature; and, knowing that my journey must be the topic, I will endeavour to accommodate both our feelings. To begin then with that which is uppermost in my mind : the crosses which are placed by the road side in many parts of Normandy, and which must strike the eye of every Englishman. Can any thing be a more complete mockery of respect than for two women passing the cross in high dispute and anger with each other, with ill-will in their hearts and ill-words on their tongues, to incline their heads to it; or for a man en- FRANCE. 11 raged with a poor donkey, of an unfortu nately unyielding disposition, to bastinado the wretched animal by the cross with the most unrelenting barbarity, only stopping in his cruelty to pay the required mark of homage? The former of these cases, I am told, often happens, and the latter I have seen myself. These crosses are generally about thirty feet high, with the figure of Our Saviour crucified on them. Some are better exe cuted than others, and as much as they are better so are they more distressing to the feelings ; but I know you are not fond of moralizing so I will no more at present. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. 12 LETTERS FROM LETTER VI. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, There was something in your last letter that pleased me, but be sure that you never write two of the same sort to follow. Your Aunt is better, so no more serious moods for awhile, though I don't actually complain of your last letter; for as I said before, there was something in it that I liked. I perceive you have a very just and proper idea of the hypocritical religion of those Frenchmen, and your abuse of them proves to me that you see their absurdities, as your Uncle has done before you, without becoming either illiberal or prejudiced. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. FRANCE. 13 LETTER VII. Rouen. MY DEAR UNCLE, The detailed account you so kindly give me of my dear Aunt's illness and subse quent recovery requires my most grateful acknowledgments, and I beg of you here to accept them. I am sorry to find you so very violent in your sentiments against this nation. I am not inclined to call you prejudiced or illiberal, but I must say that, if you were to be some time in this country, I cannot help thinking you would change your opinion of some things. Every nation has its faults ; but, in my opinion, there cannot be a more decided bane to universal philanthropy than the en couragement of the idea that one country can be the natural enemy of another, a posi tion which it would be hard to maintain and still harder to prove. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. 14 LETTERS FROM LETTER VIII. Harley Street. Change your style of writing, young man, it ill becomes you. My opinions are not those of a fickle or a young man ; they have not the variability of the one, or the rashness of the other ; and, if you hope ever to see me in France, it is a vain idea. — Write to me, but don't preach to me. — France is the natural enemy of Eng land ; and if you are too much of a French man at heart to think so, I have no wish to see your English person again at my house. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. FRANCE. 15 LETTER IX. Paris. MY DEAR UNCLE, You cannot but be aware that it must ever be farthest from my intentions to offend an Uncle who has not only behaved kindly but generously to me : accept then my apology for the past, and I will endeavour for the future to be more circumspect in my manner of writing. I reached this place yesterday at a late hour ; and, not having been out yet, of cpurse can give you no intelligence respecting this city, which communication I shall reserve for my next. Yesterday was Sunday; and, happening to pass through the town at the hour of high mass, curiosity led me near the church, when a scene presented itself; which, to the eye of an Englishman, was inconsistent with every rule of decorum. The market, which is generally the case throughout Normandy, is held in the space before the church. The B 2 16 LETTERS FROM church was certainly full, and so was the market-place, thus food for the mind and for the body were both distributing at the same moment ; for, I should say, it was high market as well as high mass; and it was hard to determine who was most earnest, the minister in praise of virtue, or the butcher in praise of meat. There was a constant passing from the market to the church, and from the church to the market, so that he who had made a good bargain might return thanks for his good fortune, and he who was about to make one pray for it. We met to-day, on the road, what is termed an Avant Courier ; a fellow that may be better described, according to English ideas, by an Avant Ragamuffin. It is the custom in France for persons of consequence, when travelling, to send on their servant, with a postilion for his guide, to the next stage to order horses to be ready; and, as the post-masters are obliged to send them on at the rate of ten miles an hour, a pace very injurious to the horses, the worst are generally chosen for this duty. In the drawing I send you, the man in the foreground is the postilion, the other the ser vant ; and, as the great art in French driving FRANCE. 17 consists in cracking a huge uncouth kind of whip for the fastest and longest, I have represented one of them in the act, for one generally begins when the other stops, by way of keeping it up, and thus doing credit to the whole set out. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. 18 LETTERS FROM LETTER X. Paris. MY DEAR UNCLE, To-day I commenced my perambu lations in this great city. — My hotel is about five and twenty yards from the Palais Royal ; this being so immediately in its vicinity, I naturally bent my steps thither first, meaning to follow exactly where inclination led, and supposing I should be able to compass at least one quarter of the town before dinner ; a proof how little I was acquainted with the fascinations of Paris. I entered the Palais Royal. — Here my walk commenced, and here also it terminated. Every door contained a most inviting list of what was to be sold within, or bought within, or seen within, or heard within, or eat within, or drank within. To eat or drink, amid such scenes of novelty, was the least of my desires : and merely to walk about with my mouth open was too much as other people did. I stept aside to read some of the affiches, in order to regulate thereby my morning's occupation; but, before I had read the first three lines, FRANCE. 19 some officers of the guard of honor passed, and I was naturally attracted by their ap pearance to gaze. I followed them a few paces till my curiosity was satisfied; and, having left my old affiche, turned to another, for every step presents a new one ; but from this I was again disturbed by the voices of some English who passed me, and who made me involuntarily turn round, for there is something peculiarly dear in one's native tongue when we hear it in a foreign land; from these men however I could have easily turned, had it not been for a sequence of three beautiful French ladies; who, being drest in the extreme of fashion, I could not resist following for a few steps, still meaning to resume my affiche, but this only led on to something else equally amusing, some strange custom, some foreign dress, &c. &c. till I no longer thought of wishing any other occupa- pation, and suffered myself imperceptibly to follow the example I had so lately depre cated ; but which, from this time forward, I shall always be generous enough to pardon in any Englishman who, for the first time, walks through the Palais Royal. After a variety of quick steps forward to overtake wonders, and lagging steps that 20 LETTERS FROM wonders might overtake me; loiterings at shop windows, and minute examinations of nothings, merely because, not knowing what they were, I thought they must be somethings, I arrived at that part of the Palais again at which I had entered; and, looking at my watch, found I had occupied just three hours in accomplishing the tour of the galleries. It was three o'clock, and I had an appointment at half-past at my hotel, whither I repaired as fast as possible. Inclosed I send you a drawing of one of the ladies I have mentioned, for the amuse ment of my sisters. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. FRANCE. 21 LETTER XI. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, You write in good spirits and seem much amused, which you know delights me ; indeed, if one could only put up with the d d nonsense one must meet with at every step from those Frenchmen, there seems enough to amuse one by all accounts, but I know I should never be able to put up with their hops, and their skips, and their bows, and their shrugs for a single moment ; but, tell me Tom, have you seen no pictures yet ? You know how fond I am of painting, and I shall expect you to bring me home an exact account of every scrap of canvas in the Louvre. French cloths are very fine and good. Buy as much as you like, but don't have an inch of it made up in Paris. — No French kicks for me. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. 22 LETTERS FROM P.8. We, that is the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of the city of London, are going to give a most splendid dinner on the 1st of April, to He-hon-ton Das-tan-back (or some such name) a Mameluke Tartar who has just arrived in London. He is one of the under strappers in the stables of the great Ha-li- bon-kan-something, and is taken even more notice of, if possible, than the Cossack. The dinner is to cost £2,000. FRANCE. 23 LETTER XII. Paris. MY DEAR UNCLE, I think you will hardly fear my following the Parisian mode, when I tell you that pea-green trowsers of an inordinate size, a bright red waistcoat, and a light grey coat, apparently made for anybody but the wearer, form the present Parisian Go. The drawing I send you will give you a just idea of a Paris Beau ; and, if you think I can ever reconcile myself to looking comme ca, I am very much mistaken in your opinion of Tom Seebright. I have been to the Louvre several times, but it is so crowded every day that it is impossible to see any thing. It will be closed to the public in a few days, and then I hope to pass much of my time there. I walked in yesterday ; and, not being able for the crowd to see the pictures, amused myself with hearing the observations pf some of our City Apprentices, Shopkeepers, Tailors, Men-milliners, &c. who, of course, all pass 24 LETTERS FROM themselves for Travellers and Connoisseurs here. One supposed this must be the Louvre, for they had followed their paper as strictly as possible. Another wondered how many people there were in the room. A third, with his friend, squeezed through the crowd to the farther end of the gallery and back, as fast as numbers would permit, for dinner was ready; declared it was a very pretty place, that they never saw so many gilt frames before, and wondered what all the pictures could be about. A fourth was just going to start in the diligence from Paris, but would just cram his head within the Gallery door that he might have it to say he had seen the Louvre. A fifth, in the Gallery of pictures, wondered which was the real Venus de Medicis ; while a sixth, in the Gallery of statues, stood before a modern Laocoon, with his wife upon his arm, and explained the antiquity of the Apollo de Belvedere, to the great amusement of a French coal-heaver who stood by ; and who could, I would venture to say, have told the history of more than half the statues in the room, as well as the names of the artists who carved them, so low does the love for the arts 26 LETTERS FROM LETTER XIII. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, Your account of those rascally be ings, the very bantlings of ignorance and conceit, downright maddens me. — To think that the credit of British taste is in the hands of such scum. — Why, it would take a host of English artists and connoisseurs to do away with this one impression. I wish I could only be in that Louvre for one short hour; I'd show them that there were those in England who : but no matter. Our dinner went off capitally. — Two Royal Dukes at table. — The Mameluke showed the manners and customs of his country admirably, and we all went home as . Good by Tom. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. FRANCE. 27 LETTER XIV. Paris. MY DEAR UNCLE, I yesterday intimated to my Valet de Place that I wished to take a trip to Ver sailles, on which he informed me that my only way would be to get into a Pot de Chambre, a row of which was always standing under the walls of the Thuillerie Gardens. The proposition was somewhat alarming to the ear ; but, determining to let my eye be the criterion, I pursued my way to the Pot de Chambre stand, and found the vehicle to be a heavy kind of tax- cart, on two wheels, drawn by the ghost of a horse, and carrying only six persons inside; and baskets, bags, dogs, brooms, &c. outside ad libitum. The moment I came in sight of the stand I was beset by at least twenty conducteurs of these machines; who, without consulting me, but as if I were common property at once laid violent hands on me ; one insisting on taking me to St. Cloud, another to St. Germain, and a third to Vincennes ; and it was not without some hard pushes, that almost amounted to blows, and some other manual exertions that 28 LETTERS FROM I was able to extricate myself from them; when, half in anger, I turned off, resolved to give up my project if it were not attainable by some milder means. When I had gone a few steps, a man, hat in hand, stept up to me ; and urging that he was not one of those who had so roughly handled me, pleaded so earnestly that I would join a party of four, only wait ing for two more to start, that I turned again and yielded to his solicitations. A fat lady and her daughter were already seated, I next entered with my valet, and we were in turn followed by an officer of Hussars, and a dash ing girl of about twenty-two. Our postilion, or conducteur as they are called, was just as he is represented in the design which accom panies this, and which also gives a most faith ful portrait of the whole turn out. We were taken nine miles in two hours and a half; and, when set down at Versailles, paid thirty sous, or fifteen-pence each. A cheap ride it certainly was, considering how much time was given us for our money, but I preferred returning on foot, and I write this after a fagging walk home. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. FRANCE. 29 LETTER XV Harley Street. DEAR TOM, You know I am fond of the humour ous, and hang me if I would not almost go to France merely for the sake of having it to say that I had rode in a Pot de Chambre ; it would tell so well against the Monsieurs. You say nothing of the Boulevards. Tell me about them. A friend of mine, who has just returned from France, tells me they are the only things worth seeing in Paris. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. 30 LETTERS FROM LETTER XVI. Paris. MY DEAR UNCLE, You ask me for an account of the Boulevards, and I am seated to answer your request ; but, in so doing, I must warn you that I shall make the future remarks of your friend, whoever he be, sink lower in your estimation. The Boulevards are a continuation of very broad streets, bordered with a double row of small trees ; and which formerly surrounded Paris; but which from the town having extended far beyond them on all sides, form now a rural circle, as it were, round the heart only of the city. On these Boulevards every thing of curious and common, novel and antique, wise and foolish, is to be seen at one view. 'Tis here you will find the works of Racine, Rousseau, and Voltaire exposed for sale at the same book-stall with Piron, Gaudet, and Lambert, and all indiscriminately advertised at sevenpence halfpenny a volume. 'Tis here FRANCE. 31 you will see many an ingenious invention, for which some pirate Englishman has just en tered a caveat, or perhaps taken out a patent, rusty with age and worn out with use ; while new ones spring up on all sides, faster than they can be exported. Here, on one side, those fools by profession, but wits by nature, the Quacks or Conjurers, exercise their various talents in the most uncouth dresses, before their little tables, to the amusement of the learned, and astonishment of the ignorant; while, on the other, the tortured monkey is alternatively shaved, drilled, and flogged by a set of men, whose existence depends on making beasts of themselves, by making men of their beasts. On the Boulevards, age and its sad conse quences puts itself on a par with youth and beauty, by walking the same esplanade. On the Boulevards the illiterate raise themselves to the literate, by standing at the same book stall ; while the wise lower themselves to the foolish, by gaping at the same Quack. Such, my dear Sir, is the unvarying round which the Boulevards present; and, having drawn this faithful picture for you, I shall leave you to judge if the sentiments of your friend be worthy of a sensible man or not. c 2 32 LETTERS FROM I send you a drawing of one of these Quacks I have been speaking of, just as you would see them dressed on the Boulevards. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. FRANCE. 33 LETTER XVII. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, I do not see my friend so much in error as you do. His expression is too strong ; but, I can tell you, that, if anything could bring me to France, it would be those very book-stands on the Boulevards. I doat on an old book as a fidler does on an old fiddle, even if it have but two strings, for I love to strum over one though half the leaves be gone. Now Tom answer me one question. Tell me candidly, do you think I could put up with France and the French long enough just to see the Louvre, and look over all these book stands; that is, if I should ever think of passing thro' France on my way to Italy; that is, if I should ever think of going to Italy. Good by Tom. — Write me very soon. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. 34 LETTERS FROM LETTER XVIII. Paris. MY DEAR UNCLE, You have no idea what a very small portion of Philosophy will enable you to put up with all that you will have to encounter in a trip to Paris ; and it would really be a pity for one, who is so fond of the arts and sciences, not to avail himself of this opportu nity of seeing a country, which another war may prevent his ever visiting. What matters it whether you go to Italy or not? Pay your visit to the Louvre and the book-stands in Paris and then you can talk of the same amusements in Rome. I am going for a few days to Orleans, to see the Banks of the Loire ; and, on my re turn, I shall set off immediately for Calais, where I shall expect to meet you. If I remember right, I sent you a sketch of a post-boy some time ago. That was taken in the country, but the enclosed is the fac-simile of one who took me to St. Cloud from Paris ; and is, you see, a much more natty fellow. FRANCE. 35 His pigtail, from the quantum of pomatum in it, and ribband round it, I should compute to weigh about one pound avoirdupois ; but his boots, which are framed of wood, leather, and iron, I know to weigh only twenty-eight pounds, for I had the curiosity to weigh them. On my asking him the reason of his wearing such, he replied, " On ne saute pas ; " and, on my further query if that were the only reason, he answered, " On ne casse pas les jambes ;" but he evidently considered his first reason the more cogent one, and it is certain that these great weights on their legs do most effectually keep them from what we call bumping in their saddles. Do write soon, and tell me on what day I shall meet you at Calais. I will write you from Orleans. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. 36 LETTERS FROM LETTER XIX. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, Why you write to me as if all was settled; or, in other words, as if I were not a married man. You must know I have not said a word to Lady Crusticorn, and therefore cannot answer your letter positively yet. Don't quote French lingo to me again. We are all in a roar in the city, about the Corn Laws. I have not asked what it means yet, but petitions have been lying on our tables at the Mansion House for signatures ever since Monday last. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. FRANCE. 37 LETTER XX. Orleans. MY DEAR UNCLE, We arrived here yesterday ; and, as all travellers must tell when, what, and where they eat; after a hearty breakfast at the "Golden Ball" of veal cutlets, bread, fruit, and wine ; I, as all travellers must go to see churches and cathedrals, went to look at the celebrated one in the centre of this city. I reached the place or square before the cathe dral, but here my progress was impeded by a scene which curiosity could not resist stop ping to witness. On one side stood a man and woman, each elevated on a stool, with a sheet of scriptural pictures behind them, in the midst of which Our Saviour crucified was the most con spicuous. The woman sung the sacred history to which they related, while the man accompanied her on the violin, occasionally using his bow as an index to the most im pressive parts of the pictures. On the left of this groupe was another of a 38 LETTERS FROM similar nature chanting before a wax model of the Virgin Mary and Infant Jesus, accompa nied by a tambourine and flute, and all under the canopy of an enormous family umbrella of about eight feet diameter. Between these two, and exactly in front of the cathedral door, sat a lady astride upon a large black horse, a large thonged whip hung over her shoulders, and her heels ornamented with a pair of silver spurs. She had a small blue valise, and a red umbrella strapt on to the back of her saddle, and before a wooden box of philoso phical instruments. This lady held in her hand a powerful magnet and an iron dish, and delivered a lecture on the attractive powers of the one, and the adhesive properties of the other, to a gaping crowd ; who if they could not derive amusement from the fair Philosopher's discourse, were still detained by a second loadstone which she held in reserve. This was neither more nor less than music ; for, in front of this equestrian lecturer, stood a breechless urchin, whose diminutive stature was almost entirely screened by the rotundity of a huge bass drum ; and, of him, in might truly be said that " Ever and anon he beat " The doubling drum with furious heat," FRANCE. 39 to fill up the intervals of harangue ; and this, when philosophy failed, often detained the steps of the departing youth, who had scarcely made up his mind to quit before he was again nailed to the spot by the heavenly voice of the drum ; for music is a Frenchman's antidote ; and the huxter who, with a hunting horn or a fiddle to sound before he spoke, might sell all he had in an hour, would wander through Paris for a day, without it, and not sell an article. To-morrow I proceed to Tours, and thence in a few days back to Paris, where I shall expect to find your reply to my last, and a day appointed for me to meet you at Calais. &c. &c. &c. THO. SEEBRIGHT. 40 LETTERS FROM FRANCE. LETTER XXI. Harley Street. DEAR TOM, I have spoken to Lady Crusti ; and, on Monday next, I shall leave the peaceful serenity of the sensible British Metropolis to seek the noisy tumult of the frivolous French one. Yours, CRUSTICORN QUERY. P.8. Yesterday the Corn Mob knocked Lord D.'s and Mr. R.'s houses about their ears ; and, last evening, pulled several Mem bers of the Commons out of their carriages by the collar, Mr. C r of the Admiralty was among the number. N.B. I shall not travel with arms as I am told France is in a state of perfect tranquility at present. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. The Author, aware that to some of his readers the Plates will be much more interesting than the Letter-press, and fearing they are not sufficiently explained in the Letters, has added this slight Description of them, which he feels will be necessary to those who have not been eye-witnesses to the scenes they represent ; and takes this opportunity of assuring the Public that the drawings are not caricatures, but only characteristic illustrations, as neither the Jack -boots of the Postboys, the Bonnets of the Ladies, or the clumsi ness of the Carriages represented, anywhere exceed the pro portions of the reality, though generally copied from its extremes. PLATE I. To face the Title Page. Is a mere political satire, by the play on the words " Chat- seur a pied." The frame on the child's back is such as the Porters in Paris carry goods on. PLATE II. Page 4. Represents the dress of the Pilots at Havre de Grace, with the silver anchor on the breast, given them by Government as a badge of their office. PLATE III. Page 8. A French diligence changing horses, with the Conducteur on the top arranging the luggage. This plate represents the 42 DESCRIPTION OF pavde and chaussee, which is the general form of the roads within two hundred miles of Paris, and in many parts of France. The middle seat of the Diligence sometimes rests on the side of the door ; which when opened, generally oc casions the seat to fall. The Diligence in the distance gives a very accurate idea of their general effect when passing along the road. PLATE IV. Page 16. This plate is sufficiently explained in the letters, to which we refer our readers. PLATE V. Page 20. A French Lady, with her bonnet tied comme il faut. She is stepping over the ruisseau, as it is termed, or gutter in the centre of the street ; which, when it rains, becomes of no in considerable magnitude, and is often overlaid by a plank placed by a little urchin, who expects a Hard for the accom modation. Two Englishmen are seen in the distance. The military hat of the one forms a striking contrast with the French one in Plate III. while the low collar of the other is no less opposed to the collar in Plate VI. A French Lady had rather splash her stockings than her petticoat or gown. — La chaine d'or serve de Porte-clef. PLATE VI. Page 24. A French Gentleman, with his hair tout a fait a la mode, traversing the Place Vendome. His poodle dog carries his stick ; and, though it is a misling rain, his hat is au bras.— When you draw a Frenchman mind that his hands are well crammed into his pockets. PLATE VII. Page 28. A Pot de Chambre under the walls of the Thuillerie Gar- THE PLATES. 43 dens loading for Versailles. — " Un bon cheval Anglois, Monsieur !" PLATE VIII. Page 32. A French Conjurer and his assistant ; with a horn, so held by a cord that leads to the top of his helmet that he can play both horn and fiddle at the same time ; taken from life near the Place de Carousel. PLATE IX. Page 34. A French Postilion. The portrait of one who drove the Author out of Paris. PLATE X. Page 38. A French equestrian Lady Philosopher. N.B. The Author is sorry to be under the necessity of confessing that, owing to a slight error on the part of the Engraver, the right boot of the Postilion in Plate IX. is somewhat exaggerated ; the left he believes does not exceed the bounds of truth. EXTRACTS PROM The Leadenhall Press Book List. The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall Street, London, E.C. 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TALES OF THE "WILD AND WOOLLY WEST." By Adair Welcker, of Berkeley, California. LONDON: The Leaden hall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [One Shilling. ( 10 ) PRINCE DORUS. By Charles Lamb. A reproduction oi the first edition of i8n, including all the beautiful coloured plates. LONDON : The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [Seven-and-Sixpence. Five hundred copies only printed, each being separately numbered dv signed. A copy of this scarce and amusing book for children was recently sold by auction for ^45. " This bright little volume will have a place in every collec tion of modern literary curiosities." — Notes and Queries. CHEAP EDITION. PRINCE DORUS. By Charles Lamb. A reproduction of the scarce and pretty first edition of 1811, including all the coloured plates. With Introduction by Andrew W. Tuer, F.S.A. LONDON : The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [One Shilling. BEAUTY AND THE BEAST. By Charles Lamb. With an Introduction by Andrew Lang. Illustrated with eight beautiful steel plates engraved in facsimile from the original edition. LONDON : The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [Three-and-Sixpence. A charming book of equal interest to children and their elders. One hundred signed copies only, containing a set of earliest open letter proofs of the eight illustrations in red, and a duplicate set in brown. [Ten-and-Sixpence : now raised to Two Guineas. GRAY'S ELEGY : with Sixteen beautiful Illustrations by Norman Prescott Davies, facsimiled from his original drawings in the posses sion, and published by the gracious permission of H. R. H. The Princess of Wales. Bound in gold lettered vellum, with broad silken bands and strings. LONDON : The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50 Leadenhall-street, E.C. [One Guinea " A work of very great beauty. — Leeds Mercury THE BANTAMS OF SHEFFIELD, a Novel. By Guy Balguy, author of " The Maids of Dulverton," cvc LONDON : The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [Half-a-Crown. THE A. B. C MARINERS' GUIDE, containing Complete Information relating to the Mercantile and Maritime Laws and Customs, including a useful set of Tables, cvc, compiled by Captain R. T. Stevens. (Second Edition.) LONDON: The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [Seven-and-Sixpence. TABLE OF DISTANCES TO AND FROM THE Principal Commercial Seaports of the World, shewing the distances in nautical miles both via the Capes and the Suez Canal, including a Table of Distances in the Sea of Marmora, the Black Sea and the Sea of Azof. Compiled and arranged by Captain R. T. Stevens. This Table shewa at a glance the distance from anchorage to anchorage between the portB of London, Liverpool, Newcastle, Cardiff and the principal commercial ports of the world, as also the distance of the latter ports from each other. The distances given are the shortest possible in safe water. Price 30s. ; or mounted on linen 35s. ; mounted on linen, rollers and varnished 40s. LONDON: The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : so, Leadenhall-street, E.C. ( » ) A TABLE OF DISTANCES IN NAUTICAL MILES between the principal ports of the United Kingdom, and ports in the North Sea, Kattegat, Baltic Sea and Gulfs of TFinland and Bothnia. Compiled by Captain R. T. Stevens. LONDON : The Leadenhall PreRS, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall-street, E.C. [Two Shillings OXFORD TO PALESTINE. Being Notes of a Tour made in the Autumn of 1889. By the Rev. Joseph Ll. Thomas, M.A., Briton Ferry. Author of "An Undergraduate's Trip to Italy and Attica." LONDON: The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall- street, E.C. [Two-and-Sixpence, ffEVER HIT A MAN NAMED SULLIVAN I By A. Dewar Willock, M.J.I., author of " Rosetty End," "She Noddit to Me," eve, cvc. LONDON : The Leadenhall Press, Ltd : 50, Leadenhall- street, E.C. 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