YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

THE
WAR CORRESPONDENCE OF
THE "DAILY NEWS"
1877-8
CONTINUED FEOM THE FALL OF EARS
TO
THE SIGNATURE OF THE PRELIMINARIES OF PEACE
WITH A CONNECTING NARRATIVE
FORMING A CONTINUOUS HISTORY OF THE
WAE BETWEEN EUSSIA AND TUEKEY

Sonuon
MACMILLAN AND CO.
1878
[The Right of Translation and Reproduction is Reserved.]

LONDON :
WOODFALL AND KINDER, PRINTERS
MILFORD LANE, STRAND, Tv.c.

PREFACE.

The motives which have led to the republication, in a collected
form, of the Correspondence of the Daily Neivs descriptive of.
the War between Russia and Turkey having been already
explained, we have only to add that in the present volume
the same system is observed as in the former volume of
distinguishing the contributions of each correspondent. The
collection, which now forms a complete History of the "War,
comprises the correspondence of Mr. Archibald Forbes, Mr.
J. A. MacGahan, Mr. F. D. Millet, Mr. E. Pears, Mr. E.
O'Donovan, Mr. J. H. Skinner, Mr. V. Julius, and other
correspondents — in all seventeen in number — to each of whose
letters a conventional sign has been affixed.
"Daily News" Office,
May, 1878.

a 2

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
POSITION OF AFFAIRS IN THE MIDDLE OF NOVEMBER.
Characteristics of the Russian and Turkish Troops. — Aspects of the In
vestment of Plevna. — General SkobeleS's Camp. — Description of the
Country and the Russian Positions. — Russian Food Supplies. — Turkish
Prisoners sent into Plevna. — Policy of Osman Pacha. — Prospects of
breaking through. — A Panoramic View. — The Doomed Town. — The
Russians and their Critics. — SkobelelFs Positions. — The "Wooded
Hill." — Skobeleff in the Trenches. — Gorny Dubnik. — Traces of the
Fight. — Rashness of the Russian Attacks. — First Battle of the
Guards. — A Problem solved. — Naval Operations. — Torpedo Warfare
on the Danube and the Black Sea ....

CHAPTER II.
GENERAL GOURKO'S SECOND EXPEDITION.
On the Road. — The Deserted Village of Teliche. — A Brigade of the Guards.
— General Gourko's Headquarters at Jablonica. — Objects of the Ex
pedition. — General Rauch's Advance upon Pravca. — Difficulties of the
Campaign. .—Fighting in the Mountains. — Sufferings of the Russian
Troops. — Capture of Pravea. — General Dondeville's Advance. — Further
Details of General Rauch's Operations. — The Abandoned Turkish En
campments. — Osikovo. — The Valley of the Mali Isker. — Occupation of
Etropol 

CHAPTER III.
THE "ARM! OF RELIEF.''
The Turkish Fugitives in Roumelia. — The Filthy Town of Sofia. — Mehemet
All recalled from Bosnia to assume the Command of "the Relieving
Army." — Effects of the Russian Strategy. — Circassian Outrages in
Orkanieh. — General Features of the Balkan Campaign. — Shaldonik
Height. — Operations of General Rauch and General Dondeville. — The
Turkish Positions. — Mountain Bivouacs. — The Cossack Stations. —
Traces of a Struggle. — Mountain Scenery. — Transport and Ambulance
Difficulties in the Mountains. — Lamentable Condition of the Wounded.
— Bulgarian Girls. — Life in Etropol. — Difference between the Bulgarians
North and South of the Balkans. — Summary of General Gourko's

CONTENTS.

Progress. — Configuration of the Country. — Engagement between the
Turks and Forces under Count Schouvaloff. — With Mebemet Ali. — The
Fight in the Orkanieh Pass. — Kamarli Pass. — The Bosnians. — Ex
cellence of the Russian Artillery Practice. — Mehemet Ali deprived of
his Command. — Alarm at Sofia. — The Stafford House Fund and the
Red Crescent Society. — Self-Mutilation among the Turkish Soldiers. —
The Turkish Compassionate Fund and Lady Burdett Coutts's Agent. —
Rumours at Kamarli of the Fall of Plevna ..... 73
CHAPTER IV.
THE TURKISH DEFENCE OF ERZBROUM.
Erzsroum summoned to Surrender. — Evasive Reply of Mukhtar Pacha. —
Anxiety in the City.. — Description of the Defences. — Attacks on the
Forts. — Capture and Recapture of Fort Azizieh. — Renewed Attacks. —
Descriptions of the Troops on the Ramparts. — The Grand Duke
Michael and the Turkish Prisoners. — Difficulty of forwarding News. —
The "Last Moukhir in Erzeroum." — Another Summons to Surrender.
— -News from Ears. — The Bashi-Bazouks and the Shopkeepers. — The
False News published in Constantinople. — Mukhtar Pacha's Tactics. —
Prospects of the Defence of Erzeroum. — A Fugitive from Ears. — Spies
•within the Town. — Case of Captain Temayeff. — An Interview with
Mukhtar Pacha. — Arrival of the Caravan from Persia. — Change of
Quarters. — Muhir Ali and his "Black Hats." — Sir Arnold Kemball.
• — A Levy of "Contributions." — An Armenian Village. — A Visit to
the Chief Inhabitant. — Polygot Conversation. — The Village of Illidge.
— The Turkish Sick and Wounded ....... 104
CHAPTER V.
THE FALL OF PLEVNA.
The Operations in Bulgaria. — Attacks on the Army of the Lorn. — Capture of
Elena by Suleiman Pacha. — Recapture by the Russians and Retreat of
the Turks. — State of Affairs before Plevna — Condition of Osman
Pacha's Army. — The Situation early in December. — Reports of
Prisoners. — Russian Reinforcements. — Osman Pacha's Preparations
for a Sortie.— The Night Before.— A Spy.— Abandonment of Turkish
Positions.— General SkobelefFs Advance.— A Panorama of the Battle.
— The First Circle Broken. — The Grenadiers in Action. — The Sortie
Virtually Repulsed. — Renewed Struggles. — Desperate Fighting. —
Plevna in the Hands of the Russians. — The White Flag. — Negotiations
for a Capitulation.— On the Bridge. — Aspect of the Battlefield. —
Interview with Tefik Bey.— Osman Pacha Wounded. —Conference be
tween Ganetsky, Strukoff, and Osman Pacha. — Unconditional Sur
render of the Turkish Army. — Arrival of the Grand Duke Nicholas
with his Staff.— Entry into Plevna. — Meeting between Osman Pacha,
the Grand Duke, and Prince Charles. — Osman Pacha's Place iu
History. — Appearance of the Turkish Troops. — Osman's Mode of .
Living.— Inside Plevna.— Tefik Bey and General Skobeleff Dine and '
Compare Notes. — Traces of the Contest. — Observations on the Policy
of the Defence. — Review of Russian Troops on the Battlefield of Plevna
by the Emperor, the Grand Duke and Prince Charles. — Departure of
Reinforcements for the Army of the Balkans. — Estimate of the
Strength, and Account of the Distribution of the Military Forces in
European Turkey  _ .,,

CONTENTS. VU
CHAPTER VI.
THE PAUSE IN GENERAL GOURKO'S ADVANCE. PAGE
News from Constantinople. — Proposal to enrol Christian Recruits. — The
Gendarmerie Scheme. — The Projected Civic Guard. — Baker Pacha. —
Case of the Geshoffs. — Treatment of Bulgarian Prisoners — Want of
Horses. — Censorship of the Newspapers. — The Armenian Community.
— Regulations proposed by the Greek Patriarch. — Feeling of the
Greeks. — The Sultan's Patronage of the Greeks. — The Circular De
spatch. — Desire for Peace. — The Servians. — Danube : Accident to the
Bridge of Boats. — Advance of General Gourko to Orkanieh. — The
Little Village of Lazan. — Superiority of the Turkish Works. — De
scription of Orkanieh. — An Unexpected Communication. — Rejoicings
over the Fall of Plevna. — Curious Craving for Sugar. — Hard Times
for the Guard.— The Sutler's Shop.— The Poor " Bratouschka. "—
Flight of the Turks from Orkanieh. — Positions of the two Armies. —
An Arctic Landscape  , . . 161
CHAPTER VII.
THE RUSSIANS AND THEIR PRISONERS.
The Czar's arrival in Bucharest. — Public Rejoicings and Illuminations. —
Contrast of scenes in Plevna after the Surrender. — Forlorn Condition
of the Town. — Painful Scenes. — Abandonment of the Wounded. —
Terrible Sufferings. — Narrative of Recent Events in the Town. — Tardy
Efforts for Relief. — Horrors of Removal of the Dead and Wounded. —
Neglect of Proper Arrangements. — Scenes in the Valley of the Vid. —
The Situation on the 17th December. — Forecasts of the War. — Treat
ment of Prisoners Captured by the Russians. — Another Glance at
Plevna. — The Roumanian Soldiers. — Parade of Troops before the
Emperor. — Labours of the Red Cross Society. — Dr. Fraser's Ministra
tion. — Habits of the Turkish Officers. — Conversation with Edhem
Pacha. — Prisoners on the Way to Fratesti. — An Etape or Hospice. —
Privations and Hltreatment of Prisoners on the March. — A little
Sister of Mercy. — A Roumanian Barrack. — A more distinguished
Prisoner. — Osman Pacha in Captivity. — Return of Prince Charles to
Bucharest  188
CHAPTER VIII.
AFFAIRS IN ST. PETERSBURG.
Reception of the Emperor in the Capital. — Public Rejoicings. — Imposing
Scene in the Kasan Cathedral. — Centenary of the Birth of Alexander I.
— Requiem Service. — Ceremony in the Cathedral of St. Peter and
St. Paul. — Reception and Procession in the Winter Palace. — Opinion
in Russia. — Difficulty of obtaining Data. — The Russian Political
Organs. — The Censorship. — Loyalty of the People. — Anecdotes of the
Recent Ceremonies and Rejoicings. — Popularity of the Czar. — The
Russian Police and the People. — A Street Incident. — The Emperor and
the Peasant. — Sensitiveness of the Authorities regarding the Trans
mission of News. — Censorship of Telegrams. — Vexatious Interference.
— Russian Excitement regarding News from England. — Review of
Troops in St. Petersburg. — The Russian Reserves. — Russian Army
System. — Extent of the Drain on the Resources of the Empire. — The
Wars with Napoleon. — Difference in the Conditions of the Present
Time. — The Financial Question. — Feeling Towards England . . 222

Vlll CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX.
CONSTANTINOPLE, THE DANUBE, AND THE BLACK SEA. PAGE
Effects of the Fall of Plevna on Opinion in Turkey. — Turkish Views of the
Situation. — Expectation of English Intervention. — Increased Desire
for Peace. — Exhaustion of Turkish Resources. — Unpopularity of the
Proposal to Enrol Christians. — Assembling of the Turkish Parliament. —
Failure of the New Constitution. — Proceedings of the New Legislature.
— Rumoured Recall of Midhat Pacha. — Arrest of Jewish Bankers. —
Depreciation of the Turkish Currency. — The Blockade of the Russian
Black Sea Ports. — Irregularities in its Enforcement. — Alleged Illegal
Arrest of Foreign Vessels. — Rustchuk and Giurgevo. — Condition of
the Village of Slobosia. — The Russian Batteries.— Excellence of Turkish
Earthworks. — Bombardment of Rustchuk. — Turkish Outposts Frozen.
— The Danube Pontoon Bridges. — The Question of Transport and
Supplies. — A Thaw. — Affairs in the Crimea. — Naval Operations in
the Black Sea. — Capture of a Turkish Troopship. — A Cruise in the
Muxine. — Odessa. — Carelessness of the Blockading Force . . .244
CHAPTER X.
THE PASSAGE OF THE ETROPOL BALKANS.
Reinforcements for General Gourko's Army. — Misery of the Turkish
Soldiers. — Defective Arrangements of the Russians. — The Battle-field
of the Vid. — Forlorn Condition of Bulgarian Towns and Villages. — A
Goat-path in the Mountains. — Deep Snow and Severe Temperature. —
Valuable Services of the Red Cross Society. — Heroism and Devotion
of the Surgeons and Students. — Forward Movement. — Great Number
of Sick and Wounded. — Prevalence of Frost-bite. — Superiority of the
Turkish System. — Miseries of Life in Orkanieh. — Plan of the Ad
vance. — Amount and Distribution of the Forces. — General Gourko and
hisSlaff. — A Neglected Bridlepath. — General Rauch and his Men. —
General Maglovsky. — A Snowstorm. — The Village of Curiak. — The
Kuban Cossacks. — Capture of a Transport Train. — WeliaminofTs
Column. — The Balkans Crossed. — The Kuban and the Foundling. — In
cidents of the Campaign. —Failure of Donderville's Enterprise. — At
tack on the Turkish Positions at Taskosen. — General Mirkovitch
wounded. — Valour of the Turks. — Capture of Taskose. — Baker Pacha's
Despatch. — An Exciting Chase. — Fight at Gorny Bagaroff. — Cost of
the Passage of the Balkans  274
CHAPTER XI.
THE OCCUPATION OF SOFIA.
General Gourko's Congratulations. — The Small Tin Box. — The Craving for
Sweets. — Prisoners and Captured Provisions. — The Hospital Tent of
the British National Society. — Examination of the Captured Works.
— Retrospect of the Movement. — The Turks Completely surprised.—
Stripping of the Dead by the Bulgarians. — A Little Plevna.  The
Battle Field of Gorny .Bugarof. —The Peasants of the Valley.— News
from Sofia. — Authority of General Gourko over bis Troops.  The Fez
and the Hut.— Neglect of the Wounded.— Apathy of the Russians.—
La.ly Strangford's Benevolent Labours. — Entry into Sofia. — Condition

CONTENTS.

PAGE

of the Town.— Feeling of the People.— An Old Turk.— Retrospect of
Recent Fighting. — Heavy Losses of the Turks. — Intrepidity of General
Gourko. — Public Reception of the Victors. — Orderly Conduct of the
Russian Soldiers. — Flight of the Turkish Inhabitants. — Attempt by
Bashi-Bazouks to Fire the Town. — Occupation of Ichtiman. — Opera
tions of the Servian Army. — Capture of Pirot by General Horvatovitch.
— An Ambuscade  304
CHAPTER XII.
THE ADVANCE TO PHILIPPOPOLIS.
View of the Campaign in Roumelia. — General Gourko's Great Achieve
ment. — A Leap in the Dark. — Again on the March. — Prospect of
Peace. — A Bivouac in the Snow. — Tactics of the Turkish Retreat ou
Adrianople. — Unpleasant Position of Fund Pacha and his Army. —
Trajan's Gate. — Capture of 300 Waggons. — In Sight of Philippopolis.
— Baker Pacha's Division. — Exhaustion on both Sides. — The Battle
near Fhilippopolis. — More Fighting. — Forlorn State of Philippopolis.
— Capture of Forty Krupp Guns. — Suleiman Pacha's Difficulties. —
Recapitulation of Three Weeks' Work. — Philippopolis. — Fuller Details
of the Recent Operations. — The Departure from Sofia. — A Change of
Temperature. — Report of an Armistice. — Condition of Ichtiman. — Re
treat of the Turks. — The Fall of Shipka. — Passage through Trajan's
Gate. — A Series of Slides. — StraDge looking Houses. — A Relief to the
Eye. — Burning and Plunder of Tartar Bazardjik. — Multitude of
Fugitives. — A Priest's Discovery. — Passage of the River Maritza. —
Close Pursuit. — Count Schouvaloff s Movement. — Daring of a Cir
cassian. — A Sharp Engagement. — General Schilden-Schuldner. —
Kriidener's Detachment. — General Gourko's Order. — Adventures of
Captain Bourago and his Little Band in Quest of Lodgings. — Entry
into Philippopolis. — Condition of Affairs in the City. — Scene at the
Ford. — Prince Tzereteleff. — Relief for the Suffering. — Beyond the
City. — The Turks at Bay. — Three Days of Fighting. — Homeric Hero
ism. — Precipitate Flight. — Break Up of the Turkish Army . . 335
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ADVANCE OF RADETSKT AND SKOEELEFF.
The Work of Twenty Days. — Kezanlik. — Arrival of Server Pacha and
Namyk Pacha. — A Diplomatic Contest. — How Skobeleff and Gourko
obtained Supplies. — Crowded State of the Shipka Pass. — The Capital
of the Rose Country. — Movements of Skobeleff and Radetsky. — Plan
and Objects of the Combined Operations. — Turkish Movements before
the Fall of Shipka. — Number and Disposition of the Turkish Forces.
— Effects of the Turkish Disaster at Shipka. — An Exciting Chase. —
Hot Pursuit of the Remnant of Suleiman Pacha's Army. — A Severe
Battle. — Heavy Losses of Russians and Turks. — Desperate Personal
Encounters. — Route of Suleiman's Army. — The Three Heroes of the
Campaign.— Distribution and Numbers of the Russian Forces. — Inter
view between the Grand Duke and Server and Namyk Pachas. — The
Armistice Negotiations. — Anniversary of the Refusal of the Protocol
by the Turks. — Occupation of Adrianople. — Skobeleff's Iron Discipline.
— Flight of the Mussulman Population. — Arrival of Gourko in Advance
of his Column .......... 367

X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.
FINAL STAGE OF GENERAL GOURKO'S MARCH. PAGE
The great Exodus Southward. — The Panic Stricken Mussulmans. — De
parture from Philippopolis. — Harrowing Scenes on the Road. — Pillage
of the Turks by the Bulgarians. — Fugitives from Plevna. — Five
Months on the Road. — The Avenue of Death and Desolation. — Her-
manli. — Desperate Resistance of Turks at Derbent. — Skobeleff's Cavalry
in the Valley of the Maritza. — Scenes in Adrianople. — A Field for
Philanthropy. — Turkish Hopes of English Intervention. — The English
Colony in Constantinople. — Traditions of lavish Expenditure during
the Crimean War. — Current of Opinion among the English Residents.
— Sympathies of the Official Class and of Englishmen in the
Turkish Service. — Spirit of the English Consuls. — Influence of
English Opinion and Sympathies. — The Turks the Dupes of their
Friends  .'  383
CHAPTER XV
THE RUSSIANS IN ADRIANOPLE.
Snow Storm in the Shipka Pass. — The Bulgarian Dogs. — A Child Victim.
— The Lesser Balkans. — Eski-Zagra. — Colonel Polivanoff. — A Hos
pitable Reception. — Ized Bey. — Comfortable Lodgings. — A Luxurious
Bath. — Comfort of the Turkish Dwellings. — Adrianople — Arrival of
the Grand Duke Nicholas. — The Peace Negotiation. — The Autonomy
of Bulgaria refused by the Turks. — Continued Cruelties towards tbe
Bulgarians. — Horrible Condition of Slivno. — Wholesale Hanging of
the Inhabitants by Order of Suleiman Pacha. — Cruelty of Sadyk Bey.
— Intercession of the Metropolitan. — Notable Bulgarians sent in Chains
to Constantinople. — Exiled to Boli. — Feeling in Constantinople. — Ap
proach of the English Fleet. — Admiral Hornby returns to Besika Bay.
— Excitement of the Turks. — Hopes of English Intervention. — False
Rumours  Comments of the Levant Herald. — Discontent in Con
stantinople. — The Greek Refugees. — Ominous Signs. — Enormous In
flux of Refugees. — Terrible Distress. — The International Committee.
Anxiety of the Ambassadors  399
CHAPTER XVI.
THE WAR IN ARMENIA.
Quiet in Erzeroum. — An Alarm. — Unlucky Mistake. — Funeral of an
English Surgeon. — Prevalence of Typhoid Fever. — Frost and Snow. —
The Garrison of Erzeroum. — Saved by Fate. — Dearness of Provisions.
— False News. — A Caravan from Persia. — The Russian Positions. —
Capture of Turkish Cavalry. — Sufferings of Troops from Cold. — Scarcity
of Firewood. — A Russian Proclamation. — Surroundings of Erzeroum.
— Causes of the Russian Inaction. — Difficulties of Transport.  In
sufficiency of the Russian Force. — Existence without Fuel.  The
British Consul ordered to Quit Erzeroum. — A Wilderness of Driving
Snow, — Muhir Ali Wounded.— Departure of Mukhtar Pacha for Con
stantinople. — Expected Russian Attack. — Mukhtar' s Successor. — Erze
roum a huge Hospital. — Alleged Cruelty to Turkish Prisoners at Kara.
— Illidge. — Mehemet Pacha. — Cavalry Demonstrations. — Hopelessness

CONTENTS.

of the Defence. — A Lapland-like Scene. — Chased out by the Cossacks.
— Evacuation of Iilidge. — Edhem Pacha. — Aschkale. — Want of Con
fidence in Ismail Pacha. — Armenia Abandoned to the Russians. — Sir
Arnold Kemball Reconnoitres. — Ascent of Mountain Range. — The
Turkish Soldier in Sickness. — Evrek. — The Remnant of a Turkish
Army. — The Russians in Possession of the Kop Range. — Suspension
of the Postal Service. — The Banner of Omar. — An Explanation. — The
Executions at Kars. — Gumuschane. — Erzeroum completely Blocked. —
Turkish Policy. — Death of an English Volunteer .... 420
CHAPTER XVII..
CONCLUSION OF THE ASIATIC C1MPAIGN.
The Russians in Kars. — False Reports of Russian Inhumanity. — Absence
of General Loris Melikoff. — Orderly Behaviour of the Turks. — Dimi
nution of Typhoid Cases in Kars, and Outbreak of the Fever in
Alexandropol. — The Neighbourhood of Erzeroum. — Desperate Posi
tion of the Turkish Cause. — Mohammedan Feeling. — Ismail Pacha's
Refusal to Recognize the Reported Terms of the Armistice. — Plunder
of the Inhabitants. — The Impending Cession of Armenia. — Value of
the Province to Russia. — Probable Development of Railway Communi
cation. — Future of Russian Rule in Armenia. — Difficulty of trans
mitting News. — Death of Mehemet Pacha. — Sketch of bis Career. —
Character of the Armenians, contrasted with that of the Ottomans. —
Village of Hamsi-Keui. — Despair and Misery of the People. — Anecdote
of a Wounded Soldier. — Difficulties of the Road. — Trebizond. —
Batoum. — Unsuccessful Rus^an Attack on Batoum. — Telegraphic Com
munication with Europe Interrupted. — Mukhtar Pacha and the Sheep
skin Coats. — Torpedo Exploits of the Russians at Batoum. . . 458
CHAPTER XVIIL
PERIOD OF THE PEACE NEGOTIATIONS.
Syra. — Anxiety regarding the Peace Conditions. — Orders for Cessation of
Hostilities. — The Turkish Chamber. — Debate on Massacres at Bourgas.
— At Mukhtar Pacha's Headquarters. — Abandonment of the Turkish
Lines of Defence. — Skobeleff s Rapid March. — Difficulties in carrying
out the Terms of the Armistice. — Server Pacha's Policy. — Final
Evacuation of the Neutral Territory. — The Brink of a Second War. —
The English Fleet. — Adrianople. — Helplessness of the Population. —
Spirit of Brigandage and Vendetta. — Details of the Evacuation of the
City. — Particulars of the Negotiations. — Life in Adrianople. — Habits
and Feelings of the Russian Soldiers. — Ill-treatment of English Sur
geons by Captain Baranoffsky. — Investigation ordered by the Grand
Duke. — The Fortifications of Adrianople. — Affairs in Constantinople.
— Telegraphic Communication with Europe interrupted. — No News
from Europe. — Russians at Rodosto. — Action of Greece. — Attitude cf
Austria. — Office of Grand Vizier abolished. — Achmet Vevyk Pacha ap
pointed First Member. — Alarming Number of Armed Irregular Troops
in the City. — Street Scenes. — The Stamboulee and the Old-fashioned
Turk. — Mr. Palgrave's Theory. — The Gipsy Element. — The Refugees.
¦ — Open Sale of Plunder. — The Massacres at Viza and in its Neigh
bourhood. — Terrible Details. — Entry of the British Fleet into the

CONTENTS.

Straits and Return to Besika Bay. — Russian Generals in Constanti
nople. — Turkish Ill-feeling towards England. — Further Scenes in the
City. — Englishmen robbed by Pomaks. — The Terms of the Treaty. —
The Indemnity. — Dismissal of the Chamber of Deputies. — The Greeks.
— Their Claims to Consideration. — Affairs at Gallipoli. — The Defences
of the Isthmus. — Faith of the Turks in British Intervention. — Zabet
Pacha. — The Russians at Rodosto. — Dearness of Provisions. — Distri
bution of Bread. — Surrender of Rustchuk to General Todleben. —
Condition of the Town. — Departure of General Todleben for Russia . 487

CHAPTER XIX.
THE RISING OF THE GREEKS.
Corfu and the Corfiotes. — England's Obligations. — The Greek Conscription.
— Athens. — Riot and Change of Ministry. — The Greek Army on the
Frontier. — Insurrection in Thessaly. — Hopes of English Aid. — Dread of
the Turkish Fleet. — Position of Syria. — Crete and the Cretans. — The
Position of Thessaly. — No Quarter from the Turks. — Epirus. — Public
Excitement. — Armyros. — The Insurgent Headquarters. — The Dead
Lock. — The Turkish Irregulars. — Their Mode of Warfare. — Rourpi. —
The Insurgent Chief, Valenza. — The "Sacrel Band" of Thebes. —
Cruelties of the Turks. — Hassim Aga. — Outrages by the Turkish Naval
Forces. — Nicolaides and his Band of Volunteers. — The Three Chief
Centres. — Anxiety regarding Russia. — Chalcis. — Turkish Prisoners at
Mintzela. — Return of Volunteer Combatants. — The Mode of Cam
paigning. — Volunteers bound for Macedonia. — General Soutzo's Force. 544

CHAPTER XX.
THE SIGNING OF THE PRELIMINARIES OF PEACE.
Removal of General Ignatieff and the Russian Diplomatic Chancery to San
Stefano. — Fall of Server Pacha. — Results of the Appearance of the
English Fleet in the Sea of Marmora. — Tediousness of the Negotia
tions. — Delay of the Turks. — Refusal of Mukhtar Pacha to abandon
the Line of Kujuk Tchekmejeh. — An Exciting Moment. — Peremptory
Summons of the Grand Duke. — Skobeleff's Opinion on the Situation.
— Mukhtar Pacha yields. — Description of San Stefano. —The Terms
of Peace. — The Question of the Straits. — Industrious Circulation of
False Reports. — Turkish Vacillation. — Sabdoullah Bey. — General Ig
natieff losing Patience. — An Ultimatum. — The Strip of Territory in
Bessarabia. — Misunderstanding between Russia and Roumania. —
Sinister Rumours. — Standing on a Volcano. — The House by the Sea
side. — The Labours of the Russian Secretaries. — The Treaty signed. —
The Grand Duke announces the Fact to the Army. — Enthusiasm of the
Troops.— The Two Armies Face to Face. — Review by the Grand Duke.
— A Solemn Service. — Imposing Scene. — The End of the War . . 569

CHRONOLOGY OF THE WAR.
NOVEMBER 16, 1877, TO MARCH 3, 1878.

Nov. 16, 1877.
Departure of General Gourko's army from Dolny Dubnik for
the Etropol Balkans.
Nov. 19. Attack on the Russian outposts on the Lower Lom.
Nov. 21. Capture of Rahova by the Roumanians.
Nov. 23. Capture of Pravca by the Russians.
Nov. 24. Capture of Etropol by the Russians.
Nov. 27. Capture by the Russians of the Ottoman Camp at Kliazubani,
near Batoum.
Nov. 27. Great Storm in the Balkans.
Dec. 4. Capture of Elena by the Turks.
Dec. 7. Advance of General Gourko's headquarters to Orkanieh.
Dec. 10. Attempt of Osman Pacha to break through the Russian lines.
Dec 11. Surrender of Osman Pacha with his entire army, and occupa
tion of Plevna by the Russians.
Dec. 22. Arrival of the Emperor in St. Petersburg.

xrv" CHRONOLOGY Of THE WAR.
Dec 23. Capture of the Turkish transport vessel The Meraene by
The Russia, Captain Baranoff, near Odessa.
Dec. 24. Capture of Ak Palanka by the Servians.
Dec 25. Forward movement of General Gourko from Orkanieh.
Dec 27. Recall of Mukhtar Pacha from Armenia.
Dec 28. Capture of Pirot by the Servians.
Dec. 31. Defeat of the Turks at Taskosen.
Jan. 3, 1878.
Arrival of Mukhtar Pacha in Constantinople.
Jan. 3. The Turkish Parliament passes Resolution condemning the
Executive.
Jan. 4. Occupation of Sofia by General Gourko.
Jan. 6-7. Capture of the Trajan Pass and Defeat of the Turks.
Jan. 8. Capture of Slatitza by Generals Dondeville and Brock.
Jan. 8. A Council of Ministers in Constantinople come to agreement
on conditions of Armistice.
Jan. 8-9. Capture of the Shipka Pass.
Jan. 9. Completion of the Russian Investment of Erzeroum.
Jan. 9. Capture of Shipka by General Skobeleff, and of Kezanhk by
Prince Mirsky.
Jan. 10. Surrender of 32,000 Turkish troops with ninety-three guns and
ten colours at Shipka.
Jan. 10. Surrender of Antivari to the Montenegrins.

CHRONOLOGY OF THE WAR. XV
Jan. 11. Capitulation of Nisch to the Servians.
Jan. 11. Change of Turkish Ministry.
Jan. 12-13 Bombardment of Eupatoria and Theodosia by the Turkish
Ironclad Squadron.
JaD. 13. General Komaroff carries the heights of Gorchotan, in
Armenia.
Jan. 14. Determination of the Turkish Government to despatch Server
Pacha and Nanyk Pacha as Negotiators to the headquarters of
the Grand Duke Nicholas at Kezanhk.
Jan. 14. Capture of Tatar Bazardjik and Vejtrenova.
Jan. 15-18. Continued engagements between General Gourko's army and
the Turks under Suleiman Pacha.
Jan. 16. Occupation of Philippopolis by the Russians.
Jan. 16. Occupation of Slivno by the Russians.
Jan. 18. Flight of remnant of the Turkish armies under Suleiman
Pacha and Fuad Pacha.
Jan. 19. Arrival of Server Pacha and Namyk Pacha at Kezanlik.
Jan. 20. Occupation of Adrianople by the Russians.
Jan. 24. Resignation of the office of Secretary of State for the Colonies
by Lord Carnarvon, on the ground of the intention of the Govern
ment to give orders for the entry of the British Fleet into the
Dardanelles.
Jan. 25. The British Fleet under Admiral Hornby enters the Dar
danelles, but returns, on instructions received, to Besika Bay.

XVI CHRONOLOGY OF THE WAR.
Jan. 25- General Radetsky's corps enters Adrianople.
Jan. 25. Occupation of Lule Bergas by the Russians.
Jan. 30. Repulse of Russian attack on Batoum.
Jan. 31. Bases of Peace and Armistice Convention signed at Adrian
ople.
Feb. 1. Capture of Wrania by the Servians.
Feb. 2. Occupation of Rodosto by the Russians.
Feb. 3 Formal invitation by Austria to the Great Powers to send repre
sentatives to a Congress to be held at Vienna.
Feb. 7. Raising of the blockade of the Black Sea ports.
Feb. 7. "Withdrawal of Mr. Forster's Amendment on the proposed Yote
of Credit for ,£6,000,000 sterling.
Feb. 13. Passage of the Dardanelles by the British Fleet.
Feb. 17. Sudden dismissal of the Turkish Parliament.
Feb. 19. Speech of Prince Bismarck on the Eastern Question in the
German Parliament.
Feb. 20. Rustchuk surrendered to General Todleben.
Feb. 22. Occupation of Erzeroum by the Russians under the terms of
the Armistice.
Feb. 23. Headquarters of Grand Duke Nicholas removed to San
Stefano.
March 3.
Signature of the Treaty of San Stefano.

THE WAR CORRESPONDENCE

OF THE
ii

DAILY NEWS.

CHAPTER I.
POSITION OF AFFAIRS IN THE MIDDLE OF NOVEMBER.
Characteristics of the Russian and Turkish Troops'. — Aspects of the Investment
of Plevna. — General Skobeleff's Camp. — Description of the Country and
the Russian Positions. — Russian Food Supplies. — Turkish Prisoners sent
into Plevna.— Policy of Osman Pacha. — Prospects of breaking through. —
A Panoramic View. — The Doomed Town. — The Russians and their Critics. —
Skobeleff's Positions.— The " Wooded Hill."— Skobeleff in the Trenches.—
Gorny Dubnik. — Traces of the Fight. — Rashness of the Russian Attacks. — ¦
First Battle of the Guards. — A Problem solved. — Naval Operations. — Torpedo
Warfare on the Danube and the Black Sea.
The position of the Russian armies in Bulgaria towards the
middle of November was one of confident expectation. General
Gourko's vigorous and successful operations had finally de
prived Osman Pacha of his last means of communication with
the outside world ; and some weeks had elapsed since any
supplies either of food or ammunition had reached him. How
far it would be possible to prolong the defence was still a matter
of great uncertainty ; sanguine estimates, supported by state
ments of a purely apocryphal character, had from time to time
emanated from Constantinople ; on the other hand, experienced
observers did not fail to note unmistakable tokens of approach
ing exhaustion. The ultimate fate of the stronghold which
had so unexpectedly proved an insurmountable obstacle to
the Russian advance, was at least no longer doubtful, for the
VOL. II. B

2 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
investment had. been for some time complete, and the Russian
reinforcements and the systematic organization of their opera
tions, under the ablest of their commanders, had really rendered
absolutely hopeless any attempt on the part of Osman Pacha
to break through their lines. It was, however, soon manifest
that the Russians, independently of the question of the fate of
Osman Pacha, were preparing for an advance across the
Balkans ; for the movements of Suleiman Pacha, who had
lately been appointed to the command of the army of Shumla,
in the place of Mehemet Ali, had almost ceased to cause any
serious anxiety, and the reinforcements that were still con
stantly arriving continued to augment the already superabundant
strength of the Russian forces massed around Plevna. Winter
campaigning in European Turkey, in fact, did not appear to
present to the Russian generals the grave difficulties which
military critics, relying on old-fashioned precedents, had
anticipated. The following letter from a correspondent with
General Gourko describes the state of affairs and the spirit
and characteristics of the armies in the neighbourhood of
Plevna and in the positions lately captured from the Turks,
who had thus lost their last chance of defending their com
munications with Sofia by way of Orkanieh : —
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Dolny Dubnik,
November \Wh. — There is something of the listlessness and
sluggish action of the Orient even in the investment of
Plevna. Both sides are earnest enough, to be sure, but there
is little enterprise in the earnestness, for neither Turk nor
Russian has in his composition that element of restless
activity that characterizes some other' nationalities, and which
has made other European wars dramas overflowing with
incident, action, and startling events. Here stand two large
armies. One is surrounded by the other, caught in a trap,
blockaded in a narrow little valley and along a few adjacent
ridges. The investing army has double the number of troops
necessary to keep the positions it occupies, and provisions

THE RUSSIAN AND TURKISH SOLDIER, 3
and reinforcements are everywhere in abundance. There is in
consequence a great force wasted unless the extra numbers
are kept at work, and it is just the easy-going Russian
character that can endure the inaction, waste of time and
strength that is the inevitable result of the methods of opera
tion they cling to. The siege of Plevna has called out the
noblest qualities of the Russian soldier ; it has also exposed
the weaknesses of many a general who has been up to the
time of the struggle there honoured and trusted as a leader.
From the first meeting of Turks and Russians there has
been an increasing confidence in the troops that has at
last brought the generals to a better appreciation of the
value of the men — lesson number one. Lesson number two
has been a bitter one ; it is that not every shoulder strap
indicates the capabilities of the man who wears it, and this
lesson has been learned by the last soldier in the ranks. If
the operations about Plevna result in the acquisition of a
knowledge of the best ways of fighting men as well as
feeding and housing them, the campaign will have other
important results besides the destruction of Osman's army.
But the school is a defective one at the best, because it does not
develop the soldier to the extent and in the direction which
would be required in a campaign against any other army in
Europe. We only learn to the best advantage when we are
driven to equal and surpass those with whom we are in com
petition. The Turk as a soldier is widely different from the
Russian, and in many respects far inferior to him. He will
not stand the bayonet; he will not attack an earthwork
except under peculiar circumstances ; but he is by nature a
fighting man ; he understands the value of protection, and
prizes his own life much more than does the common Russian
soldier, although they both fight with a religious conviction
that makes them foes worthy each other in open combat.
The Turk makes better earthworks than the Russian, first,
because the Turkish army is ready to try any new arm, or
tactics, or engineering operations that may be presented, and
from this willingness to experiment and to assimilate the
knowledge of other races and nationalities, reaps much good,
with, perhaps, great general loss and disadvantage, and,
b 2

4 WAR CORRESPONDENCF.
secondly, because the wearer of the fez is never at rest in
the face of the enemy until he can hide his head-gear behind
a good solid bit which will protect him from bullets. The
Russians have much to learn from their enemies in the way
of cover, and never will acquire the readiness to hide and
protect themselves — a necessity in the face of breechloaders
— as long as they have their stolid obstinacy of purpose,
which will not bear any modification, and chokes itself in its
own conservatism.
To come back to Plevna, the first thing that surprises the
visitor is not the extent, the size, the strength of the in
vesting fortifications, but I may say just the reverse, and
especially the quiet and easy, happy-go-lucky operations going
on to compel Osman to surrender. At only one point of
the line is there anything like enterprise, and that is where
General Skobeleff is. There it is always lively, and the quiet
of the nights is broken by the roar of the musketry and the
grunting of the mitrailleuses along his positions far oftener
than anywhere else — even one may say that only at that place
is there any disturbance at all. The cannon roar all about
Plevna at times, often at regular intervals in volleys from
batteries on the hills about, and it is easy to see that they^
fire for the sake of firing, and not in the hope of hastening!
by one day the surrender of the Turkish army. The Turks
rarely respond, because they have not the burden of proving
that they are on the watch, and- because everybody knows
that their ammunition is short. The Roumanians are within
fifty or sixty yards of the enemy ; the Russians, on Skobeleff's
position, are within a hundred and fifty; but there is no
reason why the whole line should not take this unpleasant;
proximity to the Turkish earthworks, and that, too, with
slight loss. The recent advance of General Skobeleff has
shown how easy it is to straighten and shorten the line, and
to bring the pickets within speaking distance of each other,
a position that is probably much more harassing to the Turks
than to the Russians. If the line were shortened, fewer men
would be required to keep it, the enemy would be kept more
in hand, he would be obliged to spend more ammunition, to
expose the soldiers more, and his position would in everyway

RUSSIAN TACTICS. 5
be a more disagreeable one. The Russians have been con
tented, and still are for the most part contented, with leaving
the enemy as they find him, and making their own earth
works the best they may to oppose the Turkish fortifications,
without attempting seriously to gain great advantages of
ground, which they might easily do by expending the same
amount of ammunition that is thrown away daily, and with
almost no loss of life.
Human nature is the same the world over. Turks are not
any the more vigilant when their lines are in danger than
any other men; they are more susceptible to panic than
less superstitious and less ignorant people ; but every
one . is more or less frightened when he has the muzzle of
hostile muskets pointed at him, ready to fire if he shows
himself too long ; and the way to act with the Turks is to
worry them with just the same devices and enterprises that
it is evident would worry and disturb the Russians. For
example, a few small Russian mortars would make life in a
Turkish trench a perfect torture with the necessity of keep
ing a constant watch for the explosion of the piece, and
then to do the active dodging to get out of reach of the
projectile. Now, when the shells from ten score cannons
strike a redoubt at once, the Turks quietly retire into
their ditches when they see the smoke in the Russian
batteries, light their cigarettes .while the shells are rattling
about the earthworks, and come out again and resume
their sports or their occupations when the firing ceases.
Drop a few mortar shells about the place, and the effect
would be quite different, especially if the mortar were placed
at a couple of hundred yards' distance only. A good bomb
proof would then be none too safe against shells which may
roll into the door or burst in the fireplace, or dig a hole in the
roof large enough to bury a horse. A few telegraph wires,
pitfalls, and abattis would make a rush across the narrow
space between the lines impossible, and Plevna would be
besieged in dead earnest. As it is, it is not so sure that the
Turks are having a very hard time of ik They are used to
the shells, for I have seen them never leave off work, or even
turn their heads, when a large shrapnell shell whistled over

6 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
them and burst just behind the line. The town of Plevna is
not bombarded, and the breastworks and rifle-pits are rarely
disturbed ; only a few redoubts are the targets for Russian
guns, and the more iron is shot into these the stronger they
are. Time seems to be of no object whatever either to
besieged or besiegers. The former await their fate without.
impatience, content with keeping about them the flower of
the Russian troops, and occupying the attention of the whole
army ; the latter, sure of their game, prefer to wait and have
it fall into their hands rather than to make a continuous effort
to seize it. Having followed the advanced line of invest-
memt for the greater part of the enciente, I am convinced that
a little squeezing and elbowing would shorten the siege
greatly, and that the glaring mistake of the Russians is
that they are no more enterprising and wideawake than their
enemy, and the latter, in consequence, never loses his com-
posure. The monotony of a siege is not wearying when
either side is burrowing and mining and pressing forward
resolutely in different places ; but where two armies sit down
and contemplate each other across an interval of a mile or
more, it becomes at last a bore. Picket-firing, which goes on
for weeks without a hit, night disturbances, which are the
result of the momentary nervousness of some soldier who was
looking over the breastwork, and alarms the whole line to
send volleys into the darkness, regular cannonading at almost
the same hours daily — all this one gets used to very soon,
and there is no longer any excitement in it. But it is in the
Sclav nature to either overdo or underdo anything they
undertake, and we may expect that they will sit on the hills
and wait for Osman if he chooses to amuse himself in
Plevna until next spring- • ¦
Leaving General Skobeleff's positions to go towards the Sofia
road, one has only to follow westward the winding valley
that is the junction of the one in front of Krishine and the
one in which stands the village of Brestovec. The outposts
are along the ridge near the Krishine redoubt, and the village
which gave the name to the earthwork is still debatable
ground. A small stream cuts its way through the stratified
rock of the ridges to the west, leaving an open gorge much

THE COUNTRY ROUND PLEVNA. 7
like the one at Tucenica, with high precipitous sides, and
here and there a ruined village. Near the village of Tyrnen
the little stream meets the Vid, and there begins the great
rolling plain bounded on the north by the Danube, and
stretching many miles to the west. The Vid flows quietly
over a broad gravelly bed, twisting and turning among the
willows and poplars, past several once-flourishing villages,
now without an inhabitant, ruined and desolate. Pickets
are on the steep rocky hills that bound the valley on the east,
and as we ride along we can see them firing at each other,
and hear the whistle of the bullets. The Sofia road is a
mile to the west, along the low hills that scarcely undulate
enough to break the straight horizon line, and always behind
the picket line, we ride down almost to the bridge over the
Vid, near the opening in the hills that leads up to Plevna,
three miles away. The redoubts at Opanes come up squarely
against the sky along the crest of the highest hill about
Plevna, which, opposite Etropol, tapers off into a gentle
slope and is washed by the waters of the Vid, and there too
we see the white puffs from the rifles of the pickets, and hear
a cannon report with monotonous regularity. Four or five
miles to the south-west of the bridge over the Vid lies this
little village, Dolny Dubnik, on both sides of the Sofia road,
which just here takes a turn through a shallow valley. All
around the village are the deserted Turkish earthworks, a
series of finely constructed forts, with deep ditch, high
central battery, and long lines of trenches connecting one
with the other. On the north of the town the ground about
the forts is furrowed and scarred with shells, thrown when
the Russians came here a few days ago, and with this excep
tion there is no sign of any fight here. The village has,
perhaps, a hundred houses standing, the rest are burned or
- torn down for fuel. We are in the land of plenty, but with
nothing to put our hands upon. Great droves of beef cattle
are about here on the hill-sides, and the butchers are up to
their elbows in blood from morning to evening. It is a
ludicrous scene enough, a detachment of tall, sober-looking
guardsmen, who have drawn plentiful rations of live stock,
fat sheep, goats, and calves, and are carrying them to the

WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

camp on the bill. One is struggling with two goats, another :
walks astride a vicious little buck, and a third ties a sheep
about his neck like a great woollen wrap. There is plenty of
fun when such rations are given out. In one respect we are
very much like the Turks in Plevna ; meat is plentiful, but
bread is scarce, and even impossible to get at any price. The
sutler sells plenty of bad wine and brandy, but has not an
ounce of sugar or bread. The officers' restaurant, a preten
tious establishment — a great hospital tent, has a long bill of
fare of all kinds of meat prepared in every fashion, but you
couldn't get an extra slice of bread if you should balance the
weight with silver. The truth is. that all the grain is back in
the country, and there is no way of getting it up here. A
Bulgar told me that if I would furnish horses he would
bring up any quantity of flour, but that he had no animals
to take grain to mill with. Cattle can be driven, they eat
their way along ; grain must stand in the bins because the
cattle and horses are all gone. Of course the army draws
from the back country great quantities of provisions with
its own transportation, but the natives live on roasted Indian
corn and onions — a diet to which they take kindly enough,
but regret always the absence of their heavy black bread
that forms the chief article of their bill of fare.
At Vraca, where the great waggon trains and the depot of
supplies were taken, there were found also some families of
Bashi-Bazouks, and three score or more inhabitants, who were
brought up here and were sent into Plevna to-day as a present
to Osman. There were, perhaps, a dozen women in all, and
twice as many children, all stowed away in two ox-carts,
which were conducted along the road by a strong escort
of Lancers, who kept the men of the party, a group of
the most miserable beings one could imagine, in front of
the carts, and goaded on the drivers of the cattle. It was a
cold afternoon, and a strong wind was sweeping through the
valley. How the half-naked children shivered and cuddled
together to keep warm ! The women sat there stolidly, their
faces wrapped in the veil, and seemed to take the proceedings
as a matter of course. In the last cart there was a family
of Turkish gipsies, the mother as red as an Indian ; a girl of,

A PRESENT TO OSMAN. y
perhaps, fourteen years, a lithe, slender, dark-eyed creature,
as beautiful a type of the true gipsy as I ever saw, and two
or three small children as naked as when they were born.
The mother was about half dressed ; the girl was scarcely
covered, for she had only a tattered pair of Tartar women's
trousers hung about her waist, not concealing her slender
ankles, and about her shoulders a torn piece of a Turkish
soldier's coat. A shock of jet-black hair fell over her low
forehead and straggled over her shapely neck. She was
crying from the cold, hugging herself into the ragged bit of
blue cloth, and trying to cover her feet with the hay that
fell over the end of the cart. When the cavalcade of misery
halted, bread was given the half-starved women and children,
who shared it readily with the men who belonged to them.
Bony hands clutched the loaves, and tore them in pieces ;
wild eyes looked for more with a sort of agonized pleading ;
and for the first time for days they feasted. Officers led the
shivering children and my gipsy beauty into a house and gave
them tea to drink, and silver money to warm their palms,
and there were now plenty of tears of joy and gratitude
shed. Soldiers showered on the party a share of their rations,
corn was piled in the carts, and they creaked away.
One of the women sat apart from the rest during the halt,
and she took no share in the feast, so I had almost
forgotten her. She sat unmoved with the soldiers and
horses all around her ; then when the others ate she threw
herself flat on the ground and sobbed. She had taken a
revolver and shot a Russian , sergeant dead in the streets of
Vraca, after the town was occupied and quiet, and for this
she sat apart, for the other women pointed at her as a
murderess. One of them corroborated the testimony of the
escort with a great deal of feeling, and said that the woman
was mad. At all events no harm had come to her for the
diabolical deed she had committed, and the comrades of the
murdered soldier were giving her food and every care with a
good-nature that it is difficult to conceive, and almost too
much to believe. And so the train went on over the hill and
down the valley to the bridge, and I saw them no more.
Osman will not care for more reinforcements of this kind, it

10 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
is certain. This little incident has been the only one of
interest here for some days, for the most complete quiet
prevails, and only the musketry along Skobeleff's position
sounds occasionally like the roaring of a fire in the grate, and
the monotonous thud of a muffled report of cannon comes
over the hills to us a couple of miles away.
The situation of affairs, and the prospects of the siege as they
presented themselves to a competent observer from the outside,
are described in the following letter by another correspondent,
also at the headquarters of General Gourko : —
t Dolny Dubnik, Sofia Road, behind Plevna, November 16th. —
The campaign in Bulgaria has taken a curious turn, one that
of all others would have been the least foreseen at the
beginning of the war. It resembles in some respects the
Franco- German War, inasmuch as the result now to a great
extent depends on the possibility of hemming in and starving
out a large army in a fortified place on one side, and on the
other the possibility of breaking through the line of invest
ment either with or without help from outside. In each case
an army shut up in a fortress, struggling against hunger, and
an army of raw levies forming outside in the hope of
relieving it. If the war of defence undertaken by the
Republic was decided by the capitulation of Metz, the present
war will undoubtedly be decided by the capture of Plevna,
or the successful resistance offered by Osman Pacha's army.
If the Russians are unable to get possession of Plevna, and
capture or destroy Osman's army, they may as well make
peace and go home. If, on the contrary, they are successful,
the war will soon be at an end. The Turks will never
be able to raise another such army. If Plevna falls,
there will then be only the broken army of Reouf Pacha
on the other side of the Balkans, perhaps 40,000 men,
to resist the onward march of a victorious army of 150,000
soldiers, which force the Russians will have by that time
ready for an onward movement, without counting the army
of the Tantra, required to mask the fortresses of the quadri
lateral. Once the contending armies have reached this

THE POLICY OF OSMAN PACHA. 11
situation, the result cannot long be doubtful. The Turkish
armies will dwindle and melt away like the snows of spring,
and the Turkish power will be crushed, let us hope for ever.
It is now only a question of time. Whether Osman Pacha
has supplies for one month, or whether he has supplies for
three months, the end must be the same. The Russians mean
to keep up the investment until the Turks are starved out,
and they will accomplish their purpose if it takes until next
April. Either Osman Pacha will have to surrender at dis
cretion, or he will have to cut his way through the Russian
lines, and take by assault a series of Russian trenches defended
by Russian breechloaders and Russian bayonets. In either
case the result is disaster to the Turkish arms. The army of
Osman Pacha is inevitably lost. Whichever plan Osman
chooses, and whatever the result, the end of this Plevna
campaign will be a military event of the highest interest and
importance.
It is very evident that if Osman were to be judged by ordinary
military rules he would have to be convicted of a very grave
military error in allowing himself to be cooped up in a place
where he must, sooner or later, yield to a more formidable
enemy than the Russians — Starvation. As soon as he saw
the danger of his retreat and his supplies being cut off, he
should have abandoned Plevna, which had played its part,
.and retired along the Sofia road until his back was against
the Balkans. Here he might have chosen a position stronger
even than Plevna as regards natural advantages, and one
which the Russians could not have surrounded or cut off.
The loss of 10,000 men suffered at Teliche and Gorny
Dubnik would have been avoided, and he might have been
reinforced by the troops now at Sofia, which, together with
the new recruits that are being raised, would have brought
his army up to an effective of seventy or seventy-five thousand
men. The next move of the Russians would undoubtedly
have been to occupy Plevna with a large force, say fifty or
sixty thousand men, and endeavour to cross the Balkans with
the remainder of their army. But the line from the Balkans
to the Danube is a long one to hold, even with 60,000 men,
when threatened by an enemy of 75,000, and it seems doubtful

12 WAR CORRESPONDENCE
whether the Russians could have attempted the passage of the
Balkans with a sufficient force to reach Adrianople. As soon
as such a forward movement was attempted Osman could
of course leave his secure position against the Balkans, and
marching down the Vid towards the Danube again threaten
the Russian communications. By a rapid concentration and
a violent attack upon some part of the long line he might
break it, and make a dash for the Sistova Bridge, and destroy
the Russian stores there ; or, at any rate, press the Russian
line of defence so hard, and threaten the Russian communi
cations so closely, as to stop any forward movement beyond
the Balkans. The Russians, in order to advance with an
army of 75,000 men manoeuvring on their right flank, within
thirty miles of so important a link in their communications
as the Sistova Bridge, would be obliged to have a much
greater force than they now have over the Danube. And, at
any rate, whether Osman succeeded in stopping the Russian
advance or not, he would not have lost his army, as he must
now inevitably do. He would have had an army with which
to cross the Balkans and follow up the Russian advance in
the valley of the Maritza, and make it most difficult for
them to either lay siege to or mask Adrianople. Or his army
might simply have been employed to hold the country not
occupied by Russian troops, which would be north of the
Balkans, the whole of that rich country between the Vid
and the Servian frontier now feeding the Russian army, and
south of the Balkans, the whole country from Philippopolis
to the Gulf of Salonica, which must fall into the hands of
the Russians as soon as the army of Qsman is captured or
destroyed.
In criticizing Osman's choice in allowing himself to be cooped
up in Plevna, we must remember that he cannot be judged
by ordinary military rules, for the reason that he has not an
ordinary army. He has not a movable army. He has not
an army with which he can manoeuvre in the field, and
execute the kind of movements I have supposed. He has
what may be called a stationary army, one which bears the
same relation to a European army that a siege train does to
field artillery. It can only be moved from point to point

EFFECTS OF OSMAN'S RESISTANCE. 13
slowly and with difficulty, and is incapable of doing any
thing while on the way. It is an army which is powerful
only when planted in a network of trenches and fortifications.
Osman, therefore, did probably the very best thing he could
do under the circumstances with an army such as his. But
it only proves, what indeed required no proof, that an army
condemned by its inherent defects to act purely on the
defensive must always be beaten in the end. He will, how
ever, have prevented the Russians from crossing the Balkans
this year at least, and forced them into a second campaign,
and this is an immense result. The question now is, did he
make the choice deliberately, having carefully weighed both
plans and forecast all the consequences, or did he remain in
Plevna hoping to keep his communications open, or that if
cut off he would be relieved by an army coming from Sofia ;
or did he linger until too late out of mere apathy and in
decision ?
The knowledge of the causes which led to his remaining here
would be just now of the greatest importance to the Russians.
For if Osman deliberately elected to remain here and allow
himself to be cut off, he would naturally, having had plenty
of time in which to do it, have laid in a supply of provisions
for at least six months. This would enable him to hold out
until the 1st of May. The probability of his having done
this, I must say, however, seems very slight. In the first
place, so much foresight and prudence is very unusual in the
Turkish character. In the next, it is no easy matter to lay
in supplies for an army of 60,000 men for six months. Be
sides this, there is evidence that Osman hoped and tried to
keep open his communications by the almost childish expedient
of establishing a line of forts along the Sofia road. This
would seem to indicate that Osman never believed the
Russians would threaten his communications with anything
more formidable than a few regiments of Cossacks. He
probably thought that the Russians, upon the arrival of their
reinforcements, instead of investing Plevna, would simply
mask Plevna with a part of their forces, and attempt to cross
the Balkans with the rest, which would have left him entire
liberty of action, either to attempt breaking through the

14 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
mask, or retire upon Sofia and operate from there on the
Russian rear. The possibility of his being shut in and
starved out is probably one which did not occur to him until
the last moment, when it was too late to lay in a large supply
of provisions and munitions. It seems, therefore, improbable
that he will be able to hold out more than a month or six
weeks longer, if even so much. The question then comes up,
What will Osman do when he sees himself with only a week's
provisions left ? Will he surrender at discretion, or will he
attempt to cut his way through the Russian lines, and escape
' with a part of his army ? The impression at the staff head
quarters is that he will surrender ; but I find that among
officers of the line the belief prevails that he will fight, and
the consequent exultation is great. They have some hope of
revenge. They can obtain no adequate vengeance for the
cold-blooded murder of their wounded, who were left lying
around the Turkish redoubts after those terrible assaults.
Russians cannot kill wounded and prisoners. But it would
still be something to meet these wild beasts outside their lair,
bayonet to bayonet and man to man, when the only vengeance
allowed the Russians might be wreaked in fair and open
fight. This satisfaction would be denied them if Osman
simply surrendered when he finds himself out of provisions.
There is considerable discussion as to the direction in which
Osman will attempt to break through. There are four general
directions in which he might try it ; but when we come to
examine the Russian line, it presents barriers which seem
everywhere equally insurmountable. Some suppose that he
would find it easier to break through the Roumanian line
somewhere near the Vid. But the fact that the Roumanians
have constructed a most formidable series of trenches and
redoubts, seems to render it simply impossible to break
through. Supposing Osman were to break the line here, he
would find himself close on the Danube, up or down which
he would have to march. If he made for Widdin, he would
undoubtedly be cut off by the Guard that would easily have
time to head him off, and with the remnant of his army he
would have to meet and attack this formidable force in the '
open. Should he attempt to march down the river, he would

PROSPECTS OF BREAKING THROUGH. 15
be just as easily headed off by the Russian forces east of the
Vid, and would, besides, have the army of the Lorn before
him. On the Sofia road he will find the Guard strongly
entrenched ready to receive him. On the Loftcha road he
will find an obstacle no less difficult to surmount, and that is
Skobeleff with a. formidable series of trenches and earth
works, over which no force, however desperate, will ever be
able to pass as long as there is a single Russian left. Should
the attempt be made here, it would result in the hardest
fighting on the whole line. Skobeleff so far has not only
been guarding the passage, he has also been driving in the
Turkish lines, and pushing them hard on every point. The
two lines on Skobeleff's right on the " Green Hill " are
within one hundred and fifty yards of each other, and he is
gradually forcing them back. There seems to be little chance
. of their ever attempting to break the line here. It would be
equally difficult along the Vid between Skobeleff and Gourko,
for before he could go far both Gourko and Skobeleff would
close in on him like a pair of scissors, and he would never be
able to reach the Balkans. For a daring general ready to
undertake a bold and brilliant venture, or sortie, the Radisovo
side might present less formidable obstacles than any other.
I believe that if the attempt were made in the early morn
ing, just before daylight, it would offer a certain desperate
chance of success as far as the breaking through is con
cerned. Once through here, he would have the Russian army
in his rear,, with no short cut by which he could be headed off.
As one army can march as fast as another, once he got a
couple of hours' start, he could keep it, and his line of escape
would be Tirnova and Osman Bazar. But its ultimate success
would depend on the possibility of a combined effort in
concert with Suleiman Pacha, which it is well nigh impossible
to arrange, owing to the absence of communications. With
out this, Osman, once through the lines here, would still have
the army of the Lorn to break through, which would simply
be an impossibility. But could Suleiman know Osman was
making such an attempt, he might assist him very materially.
He might concentrate his whole force somewhere near the
Danube, which would necessitate a like movement on the

16 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
part of the Russians, thus leaving the road to Osman Bazar
with few or no troops. Then a furious attack upon the
Russians would keep this army engaged near the Danube,
while Osman was flying across the country to Osman Bazar,
where he would, of course, find the road clear, and thus be
enabled to form his junction with Suleiman. Such a com
bination would, however, be difficult, even if there was the
possibility of communication. Still a daring general might
try it with some hope of a partial success. But there is little
likelihood of its being attempted, and it is quite impossible
to predict what Osman will do.
In the following letter from the same correspondent we have
some interesting particulars of the operations against Plevna,
together with further details of Skobeleff's recent brilliant
capture of the " Wooded Hill " : —
t Dolny Dubnik, Sofia Road, behind Plevna, Headquartebs
of General Gourko, November 20th. — Beautiful weather,
delightful weather, ideal weather, Arcadian weather,
delicious weather — weather to make one forget the three
weeks of cold and rain we had some time ago, and believe
that rain and cold are terrible visitations that may afflict
far-away mythical countries, but never such a soft, mellow
climate as this. At last the skies seem to have espoused
the cause of Russia, and the much-doubted spell of fine
weather, after the October rains, has actually come. It has
lasted two weeks now, and if one were to judge by appear
ances it may continue until Christmas, with little intermission.
There has been enough rain, this year, goodness knows ;
there has been enough bad weather to satisfy any reasonable
year, and if it were now to hold up and let the sun shine on
us for another month or six weeks it would really be no more
than we have a right to expect.
The siege of Plevna has become a kind of monster picnic.
Everywhere officers may be seen at the dinner hour seated
at their tables, dining in the open air in preference to their
tents, so warm and soft are the days. All around the

A PANORAMIC VIEW. 17
positions, where the soldiers are cooking their dinners or
lying lazily stretched on the ground, basking in the warm
sunshine, rise thin columns of light blue smoke, that hangs
over the country in a fine luminous haze, turning these lazy
autumn afternoons into a glorious Indian summer. The low
hills, covered with furze and brushwood, are brown with
that lustrous golden tint so beautiful in a woman's eye and
hair. The fields of Indian corn, of a pale dull straw yellow,
turn into gold in this warm sunshine, contrasting curiously
with the light spring green of the little valleys where the
grass is springing up again, as it always does in Bulgaria
during the autumn.
There is nothing more delightful than a gallop across the
fields and over the low hills, and down the green, narrow,
cosey little valleys, and then out again across the brown
and scented hill slopes. The valleys are sometimes deep
ravines, thirty, forty, and fifty feet deep, and not more
than a hundred feet wide, with steep precipitous sides
of solid rock, down which a goat could not climb.
Such a one is the ravine running from Tucenica, nearly
parallel to the Loftcha road, right into Plevna, and
separating Skobeleff's right wing from General Zotoff's
left. Ton draw rein on the edge of one of those cliffs and
look down with delight on the little valley at the bottom,
which, with its fresh grass and the little stream bubbling
through it, and here and there a clump of dry brushwood,
seems expressly designed for camping out. But you may
have to go a mile or two along its edge before you can find
a place where you can descend into it. Tou go down by a
steep crooked path, turn your horses loose to graze on the
rich grass, make your tea, and cook your dinner, and with
these walls of solid rock rising so close upon each side of
you, you imagine yourself in one of those deep ravines that
cross the great American plains frequented by hunters,
scouts, and Indians. It was in such a place as this that
General Custar and four companies of cavalry were cut off
and killed to the last man.
After a dinner in one of these places, taken one day at the
good old-fashioned hour of one o'clock, consisting of kibobs,
VOL. II. C

18 " WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
or bits of mutton roasted on sticks over the fire, onions
roasted on the coals, Dutch cheese turned into Welsh rare
bits, with the aid of black bread and mustard, and washed
down with draughts of clear cold water, our little party went
on, and soon found themselves on the famous Radisovo ridge.
Here we found things in very much the same condition as
during the last disastrous attack on Plevna. The Russian
batteries are in the same place where I left them six weeks
ago, and the Russians have constructed small breastworks,
with the guns mounted en barbette, which afford very little
protection to the gunners. But, although these positions are
within easy range of the Peabody rifles from the Turkish
redoubts, not more than half a mile in front of them, nobody
keeps under cover, because the Turks rarely fire. It is
believed, for this reason, that their supply of ammunition is
not very great. The Russians have trenches half way down
the slope, and their pickets are down at the bottom. The
Turkish pickets are half way down the opposite slope, and
they have slight trenches in front of the redoubts, but the
redoubts are all connected by deep trenches or covered ways.
The scene is the same as during the attack in September, the
circular horseshoe range of hills, enclosing the kind of twin
valley, with low central ridge, on which three of the Turkish
redoubts are built, running through it towards Plevna. The
Turkish redoubts are still there, considerably strengthened
and improved, and the Turks may be seen moving about in
them. But one characteristic of the landscape is wanting.
It is the dead bodies of Russian soldiers that for days and
weeks lay on the slope leading up to these redoubts, so thick
in places that with their white trousers they looked like
flocks of sheep. They have at last disappeared, for the grass
is growing here again green and luxuriantly, and hides from
our eyes the rotting clothes and skeletons. When the
Russians enter Plevna they will find them, as Messrs.
Baring and Schuyler found the bones of men, women, and
children at Batak. There were wounded among these dead
who, unable to crawl off the field, had escaped the merciful .
knife of the Circassian and the Bashi-Bazonk, and lain
there for days in sight of their comrades dying of fever,

THE DOOMED TOWN. 19
thirst, and festering wounds, while the Turks, who kill the
wounded and leave the dead to rot, will be taken prisoners,
and be treated as prisoners of war, and sent to Russia, and
fed better than the Russian soldiers. Suppose the French,
during the Franco- German war, had killed all the Germans,
wounded or not, who fell into their hands, what would have
been the fate of these same Frenchmen, officers and men,
when taken prisoners by the Germans ? All the officers
would have been tried and shot, or perhaps hanged for
murder, and the men would have been decimated, and the
whole of Europe, including the Turcophiles, would have
applauded ; and, what would have been of more importance,
the French would have killed no more wounded or prisoners.
Far behind these redoubts may be seen Plevna, serene and
smiling, half buried in a deep, narrow little hollow, ap
parently the continuation of the ravine already described,
which spreads out to receive it, and closes it in on all sides,
as if to protect it from the icy winds of winter and from the
fierce blasts of flame that rush down on it from the frowning
hills around. The roofs of the houses may be seen inter
mingled with clumps of trees, from among which arise two
tall white slender minarets, and the small round glistening
domes of a church — a picture that, cut off from its surround
ings and seen by itself, would be one of quiet and peace.
But there is little chance of your contemplating it thus.
To your right there suddenly bursts forth the sullen roar
of a gun, followed by that curious, uncertain, twisting,
whizzing scream that is so interesting when going from,
and so disagreeable when coming towards, you. If you look
closely you can see the shell for an instant as it mounts in
the air, looking against the golden sky like a boy's india-
rubber ball. It is scarcely more harmless either, as a rule,
for it generally strikes against a heap of the fresh earth, and
does no injury to anything but itself. The white smoke
from the gun rises up against the sun and turns into a
glorious yellow, deep, transparent, and many-tinted, but so
full of light and fire that it seems like the soul of the terrific
force that has just burst from its prison in the bowels of the
gun. Around the circle of hills may be seen now and then
0 2

20 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
little clouds of white smoke, and the deep-toned voices of
the dogs of war come borne to us in a sullen roar. But
there is little or no terror in their throats. Their once fierce
voices seem now to be only disappointed howls, like wild
beasts cheated of their prey, as though they themselves
recognized their own impotence. Above the village of
Grivica may be seen the two redoubts, 250 yards apart,
where the Turks and Roumanians are watching each other
like cats and dogs, ready to spring to the assault the first-
moment one catches the other off guard. Just over and
behind Plevna is an opening in the hills, where we can see
the valley of the Vid, and the undulating plain beyond,
illumined by the sun, and so shadowy as to be hardly
distinguishable from the sky.
It is here that General Gourko is watching Osman Ghazi with
the Guard, ready to fall upon him at the first indication of an
attempt to get out. On the " Wooded Hill " overlooking
Plevna stand Osman Ghazi and Skobeleff face to face and
foot to foot, watching each other with caution and respect,
like two athletes who have already tried a fall, and are
waiting for breath and an opportunity to begin again. Half
way down the Radisovo ridge, on the "hump," and just oppo
site the Turkish redoubt around which the Russian dead lay
for so long, the Russians have built a very strong redoubt.
The two redoubts are not more than 800 yards distant from
each other. The Russians have two more batteries below
this redoubt down towards the ravine, and the skirmish
line extends down to the ravine itself, where the skirmishers
are, however, taken in rear from the Turks on the " Wooded
Hill." The ridge behind Radisovo, which, with its walnutr
trees, its fields of Indian corn, and its vineyards, used to he
such a pleasant place wherein to lie in the shade and watch
the battle, except when the Turks took it into their head to
shell you out, as they did one day to a comrade and myself
when we were in the middle of a pleasant breakfast whose
principal element was the luscious grapes we gathered from
the vines around ns— this ridge is now bare and bleak. The
walnut-trees have been cut down to build huts for the soldiers,
the vines trampled down and cut up by artillery wheels and

THE RUSSIANS AND THEIR CRITICS. 21
horses' feet, or burnt up for fuel. If the proprietor, Turk
or Bulgarian, comes to look after his property when the war
is over, he will not recognize it.
From Radisovo we went to Bogot, the Grand Duke's head
quarters. My object was to see the Grand Duke and obtain
permission to visit the positions. All Correspondents who
have not been actually expelled from the army for betrayal
of the trust reposed in them and violation of their word of
honour, are allowed to stay at the Grand Duke's headquarters,
wherever that may be. Now that he is at Bogot, the Cor
respondent is within four miles of Radisovo and Brestovec,
quite near enough to be on hand in case of a battle, when
they are allowed to go forward, and quite near enough to see
the condition of the Russian army, and to know everything
that is going on. Making these restrictions on Correspon
dents, therefore, is not intended to hide the condition of the
army, as has been asserted, but simply as a measure of pre
caution. For my own part, I think the measure a very
foolish and useless one. The Turks do not get their informa
tion from Correspondents, but from the hundreds of sutlers
and contractors, who are allowed to go everywhere and see
everything without let or hindrance, or even the formality of
a pass. There are any number of spies among them.
As to the assertion that the Russians object to the criticism of
the Correspondents, it should be remembered that the Daily
News account of Krudener's defeat at Plevna was officially
published in Russia in lieu of the official report, although it
contained severe criticisms on nearly all the Russian generals
engaged. The Daily News Correspondents have probably been
the most severe of all in their criticisms on the arrangements
of the campaign ; those criticisms have been reproduced in
the Russian papers, and yet the writers are welcome every
where in the army, because, whether rightly or wrongly, the
Russians believe the criticisms to be fair and honest. When
I saw the Grand Duke he immediately gave me permission to
go everywhere around the positions. He said in English,
smiling, " Oh, it is all right ; you can go where you please ; "
and, with a large sign of the cross made in the air at me,
" God be with you." From here we went direct to Brestovec,

22 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
now Skobeleff's headquarters. The village is on the left of
the Loftcha road, and just in front of Krishine and the famous
Krishine redoubt, from which it is distant about a mile. ^ It
is, therefore, directly under the shell-fire of the Turkish
redoubt, and the picket and infantry fire as well. The Turks
do not seem to have very many shells, and rarely fire unless
something is going on. But the night Skobeleff took the
position on the "Wooded Hill" they threw twenty-five or
thirty into the village. But the bullets come in like hail
whenever there is anything going on in the trenches. The
yard in which we were camped, just behind Skobeleff's house,
was riddled with them, and when firing began we- always
made a rush for a large straw-stack, which fortunately was
near, and waited for the storm to blow over. Then we would
go out and look for the new arrivals which we had heard
dropping around us. This was easily done, and we had the
curiosity to dig out several. The penetrating power of the
Peabody rifle, which, by the way, bears the name of the great
philanthropist, is very great. We found the balls, after
coming about a mile, entered the hard ground a distance of
two feet, and a perpendicular depth of from six inches to one
foot. This power of . penetration is owing to the shape of the
ball. It is not, properly speaking, a conical ball, but a solid
cylinder of lead, an inch long, and about the diameter of the
chassepot bullet, simply rounded at the forward end. Al
though not larger in diameter than the Russian Berdan, it is
nearly twice the weight, and this, combined with the necessary
increase in the charge of powder, gives it a fearful power of
penetration. One of these bullets will travel a mile, and then
go through a horse and any number of men who should
happen to be in its line of march. Tou hardly know when
you have enough earth and stone between you and these
dread missiles.
I have already described Skobeleff's capture of part of the
" Wooded Hill." He executed this movement in the most
dashing and brilliant manner, and it is really of more impor
tance than I was at first disposed to give it, as was proved by
two very resolute attempts of Osman to recover it. As the
position is very interesting here I will describe it, so that

skobeleff's POSITIONS. 23
anybody who has the Austrian staff map, which just here — in
spite of its being necessarily very small, is correct to the
minutest detail — -can mark both the Russian and Turkish
positions accurately. Just a little south of the spot marked as
Krishine on this map there will be observed a bend in the
Loftcha road. To the right of this bend will be perceived a
little hollow running down to the Tucenica ravine. Before
Skobeleff's movement this little hollow was the line between
the Russian and Turkish positions on this side of the road.
Just north of this little spot will be remarked a little hill
bounded on the north by a very slight depression running
down towards the ravine ; and then another one bounded by
a deeper hollow, which crosses the Loftcha road, and likewise
runs into the Tucenica ravine. The first of these hills is the
one captured by Skobeleff, the other one is still held by the
Turks, and the two together, with the one on the other side
of the road, are called the " Wooded Hill or Mountain."
Besides straightening the Russian line, the capture of this
little hill gave Skobeleff the command of a road that leads
down the first-mentioned little hollow to the ravine, which is
passable at this point. As there is no other place where it
can be crossed between here and Tucenica, the possession of
this little hollow and road really unites 'Skobeleff with Zotoff,
who without it were incapable of reinforcing each other,
except by the roundabout way of Tucenica. The distance is
now a. quarter- of a mile instead of six or seven.
As regards the rest of the positions, the village of Krishine is
not where it is marked on the map, but a little north and west
of the " K " in the name. Brestovec is nearer the Loftcha
road than marked, and just in the beginning of the little hollow
under the name of Kirtozabene, about the*last of that name.
The redoubt of Krishine is just east and south of the last
'' n " in Tyrnen. . The present Russian line extends from the
little " Wooded Hill " captured by Skobeleff between the names
Krisin and Krtozab, and curves round to the north through
the last " e " of the other Kirtozabene, which is on the river
Vid, then along the edge of the heights around the Krishine
redoubt, through the letter "y:; of Tyrnen, the "1" of
Blazivas, the " 1 " of Olcagas, and then crosses the Vid. At

21 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the time of the last affair of Plevna the Turks had altogether
three redoubts here : the Krishine redoubt, whose place I
have just indicated, and two more — one between the letter
"a" of Plevna, and the "a" of Pilavna; the other at the
top of the " 1 " of Pilavna. These last were the two captured
by Skobeleff and recaptured by the Turks in the last great
attack upon Plevna. One of Skobeleff's heavy batteries was
just to the right of the figures 127-240, and another of twenty
guns down in the angle formed between the Loftcha road
and the cross-country way which passes through the above-
mentioned figures to the Vid.
The Turks have now constructed a formidable redoubt to
the right of these figures, just where Skobeleff's battery
stood, also one in the last " a " of Blazivas, and a third at
the top of the " P " of Plevna, to protect the bridge over the
Vid. They have constructed another here somewhere, but I
am not sure of its position. The importance of this " Wooded
Hill," commanding as it does Plevna and all the redoubts
between the Sofia and Loftcha roads, was not at first
recognized by either side. At the time of Kriidener's attack
Osman Pacha not only had not occupied it, but had not built
a single defence on this side. At the time of the attack in
September he had the Krishine redoubt, it is true, but he
allowed the Russians to get possession of that part of the
hill through which the road passes, with scarcely any resist
ance, which enabled them to capture the two lower redoubts.
As for the Russians, they have had possession of it twice
and abandoned it twice, the last time certainly without any
necessity. The Russian staff, not yet perceiving its impor
tance, ordered Skobeleff to withdraw from it after the
recapture of the redoubts, and it was then that Osman
reoccupied it and built the four new redoubts. Todleben
had no sooner perceived it than he pronounced it to be the
key of Plevna. Had the Russians kept it, and had Skobeleff,
after the capture of the two lower redoubts, received a sufficient
force to carry the Krishine redoubt as well, they would have
had possession of the whole angle between the Sofia and
Loftcha roads, complete command of the Sofia road and the
bridge over the Vid, and, even supposing the attack had not

•THE "WOODED HILL." 25
succeeded anywhere else on the line, Osman's supplies would
have been cut off and the investment would have been begun
then instead of a month later.
I visited Skobeleff's positions on the " Wooded Hill " the
evening after the capture. Skobeleff has a heavy battery
to the right of the road, on the little hill behind the hollow
and road leading down into the Tucenica ravine, and to this
battery I rode first, as one has from here a good view of the
positions on the "Wooded Hill," the Krishine redoubt, and
also a splendid though distant view of the whole country
about Plevna. From here I descended into the little hollow
in front of the battery, hurrying my horse's pace, when a
little picket-firing began, and the Turkish bullets passing
over the Russian hill in front began to drop on the slope I
was descending. The reserves were snugly stowed on the
opposite slope, behind two or three lines of breastworks, and
in a deep sunken road that ran parallel to the positions quite
safe from the balls that I soon found came over like a hail
storm and dropped in the little hollow as soon as heavy firing
began at the front. I left my horse here, and proceeded
forward on foot.
I had got half way up the hill, and was in the middle of
an open space about two hundred yards from the extreme
forward trench, when there was a sudden burst of
musketry fire, the ear-splitting crash of a mitrailleuse,
and a perfect storm of balls came whistling overhead and
knocking up the ground around me. I looked for the
covered way or trench which I knew led up somewhere to the
forward trench, and which I had not taken the trouble to
look for when I started, as there was then but little firing.
I could not see it anywhere. Going back was out of the
question, as I should be laughed at ; and going forward was
like storming the Grivica redoubt. All the bullets that
skimmed over the Russian trenches in front — most of those
fired, in fact — came along here about the height of my breast,
although many struck the ground at my feet. It was a most
disagreeable position. I soon perceived, however — one's sight
is wonderfully quickened under such circumstances — a small
hole in the ground where a trench had been begun and

26 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
then abandoned, and into this I threw myself with a quick-
ness that would have done honour to the best kind of
skirmisher. Here I lay for half an hour listening to the
fight, and trying to follow it by the ear alone. I could only
hear the Russian fire, but I could judge of the Turkish by
the bullets that came whizzing about and knocking up the
ground everywhere around me.
The Russian fire was continuous and heavy, and there were two
mitrailleuses, one at each end of the trench, that crashed
out now and then in that terrific sort of way which makes
one's hair stand on end. The uproar was fearful. The
Russian artillery soon joined in the fray. First a battery
across the ravine on the Radisovo ridge began throwing
shrapnel into the Turks, who were evidently attacking and
taking them in flank. Then the redoubt before Brestovec
began, and I soon heard the shells coming from that direction
making a kind of cross fire. Then the battery on the hill
behind opened, and the shells came screaming overhead so
close down that I at the first one involuntarily shrank down
closer in my little pit, fearing our gunners had fired a little
too low. It must have passed not more than twenty feet over
head, and had not more than four hundred yards to go before
striking the Turks. I could see the flash of the guns each
time, and it was not until several had passed over my head
and gone into the Turkish positions that I felt satisfied the
gunners had the range. What I feared most was that they
would think they were firing too high and should depress
their aim. This might have been serious for me as well as
for the Russians in front in the trenches. But the distance
had evidently been correctly estimated, and the shells each
time almost grazed the heads of the soldiers, but did not,
and went ploughing up the ground in the Turkish lines.
Then the Krishine redoubt joined in, and began to throw
shells from the other side, which, like the bullets, nearly all
passed over the Russian trenches, and dropped alarmingly.
near me. I had the satisfaction of reflecting, too, that my
little parapet of earth, quite sufficient to stop a bullet, would
have been of little avail in case a shell came in the rio-ht
direction. However, none did, nor did any of them fall

SKOBELEFF IN THE TRENCHES. 27
among the reserves further down. What astonished me
most was the low aim of the Turks. They were not more
than three hundred and fifty or four hundred yards distant.
I was still a little under the brow of the hill, and yet the
bullets struck all around me. They evidently must have
grazed the Russian parapets in front to have reached the
ground here. In about half an hour the firing ceased almost
as suddenly as it began, and, after waiting to see that they
did not mean to commence again, I arose from my place of
refuge and pushed on. It was now quite dark, or at least as
dark as a moon two or three days old would allow, and I had
some difficulty in finding my way. I wandered up and down
what seemed to me miles of trenches in a perfect labyrinth,
without being able to find Skobeleff. Some said he was in
one direction, some in another, and nobody seemed to know.
Finally, an officer who knew offered to conduct me, and we
were soon threading our way through the maze, approaching
nearer and nearer the Turks. I was astonished to see how
much earth the Russians had turned here in twenty-four
hours, and the formidable works they had constructed. The
Russians do not like digging, but when they do undertake
this kind of work they do it well. Finally, we found Sko
beleff in the extreme forward trench, which was not more
than one hundred and fifty yards from the Turkish trench in
front of us. He was lying down on a heap of straw, sur
rounded by half a dozen officers, coming and going, or
passing by with a greeting, or stopping to talk about the
fight that had just occurred, or giving some piece of infor
mation from some part of the line. All were merry, some
were joking and laughing in loud voices, which the Turks
must have heard distinctly, and understood, too, if any
among them knew Russian. The parapet was just high
enough to cover a man standing, and most of the soldiers
had their guns laid across the parapet, ready loaded, while
a sentinel here and there kept a sharp look-out. I observed
that the soldiers had all dug little holes in the bank in front
of them to put their cartridges in, to have them handy.
It was a strange spectacle. The long dark mass of earth
raised up against the sky, thickly lined with the figures of

28 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
men — some leaning up against it looking over, others sitting on
the bench, leaning back against the bank fast asleep, others
stretched out on the ground in the ditch, with here and there
the silhouette of a sentinel's head and bayonet looking stead
fastly over, and the pale light of the young moon casting
scarcely discernible shadows from the naked trees. I stayed for
a couple of hours, but nothing more happened. As an officer of
the staff was then returning to Brestovec, I accompanied him,
not having come out prepared in the way of clothing for a night
in the trenches. Skobeleff remained all night, however, as
he did the two following nights, as he feared Osman would
make an attempt to recover the lost ground, and he wished
to be on the ground to seize any occasion that might offer for
a counter attack. The attempt was really made both nights,
but was victoriously repulsed, although a Turk actually
succeeded in mounting the parapet. It is more likely that
Skobeleff will take the next Turkish position than that he
will lose any ground he has once won.
The following notes, dated November 18, and written by a
correspondent who accompanied General Gourko on his march
to Jablonica and Etropol, serve to give completeness to the view
of recent operations around Plevna : —
-f The Sofia road is so much superior as a highway to all
other roads in this part of the country that it is as dis
tinctly a topographical feature as the River Isker or the Vid.
A broad macadamized roadway for miles, as straight as crow's
flight over the gently rolling country south of Dolny Dubnik,
it is monotonous in its perfection of surface, with no ruts or
hollows or rough places, and must be practicable even after
severe rain-storms, so hard packed is it, and so well kept.
Gorny Dubnik is a little village just off the chaussee, perhaps
five miles from the village first named, and at this point the
hills begin to be wooded a little, and the road winds about,
and has sharp gradients and a few broken places where the
rivulets have washed through the bridges, and the culverts
have been broken by the heavy transport trains. The Russian

GORNY DUBNIK. 29'
cavalry, when it overran the country, destroyed effectually every
trace of the telegraph line, for the soldiers not only cut
and carried away the wires, but pulled down and burned the
posts, forgetting that they might be of use to run the Russian
wires on, and taking a great deal of trouble to complete a
destruction which, if partial, would have worked a double
purpose. There is a good ditch on each side of the road,
and many a dead horse lies there, thrown hurriedly in as the
army of General Gourko moved forward, the rigid legs
sprawled out, and the glassy eyes staring at passers-by.
Little entrenched camps and occasional lines of breastworks
are seen in the fields on either hand, showing where the Turks
hoped to check the Russian advance along the only open line
of communication to besieged Plevna. Across the road at
Gorny Dubnik, or rather built up to the ditch, are the very
strong earthworks which were carried by the Guards about
three weeks ago. They stand along the edge of the steep
slope that is here almost precipitous, and consist of one
commanding fort of considerable size, and built very high,
after the Turkish fashion, with the central battery, and a
smaller redoubt near the road. All about these earthworks
are the ghastly remnants of clothes and equipments of the
slaughtered men. One does not notice at first a series of a
dozen long mounds close to the ditch of the fort on the left
of the road, for they seem to be part of the fortification ; a
second glance discovers rude wooden crosses of roughly-
hewn oak, joined together with pegs, and set in the ground
at both ends of the mounds. These need no explanation ;
their significance is clear. As the road descends and winds
down the steep incline, the signs of the fierce fight are more
and more frequent. A lowering sky and a desolate landscape
deepen the impression, and we ride rapidly on until the
wooden crosses are no longer seen against the horizon, and
the slender white minaret of the mosque at Teliche comes up
sharply against the dark hillside beyond.
It is no wonder that the traces of the fight at Gorny Dubnik
are still visible, for it was one of the bloodiest engagements
of the war. Out of three regiments one hundred and fifty-
four officers were placed hors de combat, and of these about

30 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
thirty, I believe, were shot dead. The capture of the great
redoubt was a rare feat of arms, because it was the individual
' enterprise of the private soldiers that accomplished it. Al-
though detailed descriptions of the affair have long since
been sent to the Russian journals by officers who were present
— it must be remembered that no correspondents were then
allowed to follow the army — it is well worth while to refer
briefly to the events of the engagement. It was on a foggy
day, and the dispositions of the troops having been taken the
night before, the fight was opened by a brisk cannonade
directed towards the two redoubts, situated, as I have said,
on either side of the chaussee, the larger to the westward.
Three regiments of infantry, one of them grenadiers, were
ordered to attack from the east, west, and south, and about
eight o'clock in the morning the advance began all along the
line. The Turks poured down upon the moving masses a
terrible fire, which rapidly thinned the ranks, and caused the
lines to waver and seek shelter, but the smaller redoubt was
carried a short time . afterward with a rush. Pell-mell the
men climbed over the low embankment ; all the Turks who
did not scamper across the chaussee to the large redoubt were
bayoneted on the spot. A Turkish officer leaped upon the
parapet and waved his sword to attract the attention of those
who were in the other redoubt, but not a man was sent out ;
he was shot with a revolver by one of the officers near, and
the place was carried in two minutes. All the time there
was the fearful rain of bullets that is so demoralizing. To
show a head over the parapet of the small redoubt was to
attract a hundred balls. The fire was incessant, and all
further advance seemed impossible. The colonel of the regi
ment which took the small redoubt, twice wounded, at last
went to the rear to have his wounds dressed, and other
officers gave up at last the attempt to bring the men against
the large redoubt — a proceeding which would have resulted in
a terrible loss of life, and one which the men, brave enough
as individuals, refused, or rather hesitated, to undertake.
The dead and wounded numbered many hundreds, the only
two line officers who got into the small redoubt were mor
tally wounded, and it seemed as if the attack must fail,

TRACES OF THE FIGHT. 31
for every time the men tried to go forward they either fell
struck by a Turkish ball, or sought cover at once from the
fiendish hail that was thrown in their faces from the parapet
of the great redoubt. Now began a kind of fight . never
conceived of by the officers, but which the men found,
naturally enough, was the only thing to do. They had been
ordered by the general when they advanced to go into that
great square mound of earth that crowned the hill, and they
never thought for a moment but the order must be obeyed ;
they only hesitated and delayed when they were told to do
what every man of them felt was sheer folly. As the day
went on, a few bold fellows stole out from the captured
earthwork, dodged behind first one and then another natural
bit of cover, crept along the ditch of the chaussee, and got
into a little house which stood on the west side of the chaus
see, and still stands there, all riddled with bullets. A straw-
stack near by afforded shelter for one or two other soldiers
who had followed the example of the first. Now it became
the smart thing to do in full sight of all to jump from the
little redoubt into the ditch, then rush into the little house,
or behind the straw-stack. One soldier dared the other ; the
enterprising spirit of the first one spread like a contagion
among the rest, and in an hour or two the little house was so
full that those who came last all out of breath could find no
cover there, and were obliged to go on further, and did go
on, and threw themselves into the very ditch of the great
redoubt — those who reached there. Of course the artillery
had long ceased firing for fear of injuring the attacking
parties, but the musketry kept up a continuous rattle, which
swelled and diminished as the little knots of men showed
themselves here and there. As late as five in the afternoon
a hurrah was made, and a general attempt to carry the great
redoubt failed again, because no man would face long the
fire of the Turks. The few who got into the ditch found it
the only place where there was perfect shelter, much to their
surprise, and beckoned and called the others to follow them,
which they did as opportunity offered, until there was quite a
force under the very noses of the enemy. The Turks could
not fire on them because to hit them they were obliged to

32 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
stand up on the parapet, and this was certain death. Beams
and stones were thrown over into the ditch, and the Russians
responded playfully with lumps of earth and pebbles, but allt
the time they stayed there they were not idle, for they
diligently dug in the steep bank of the ditch steps by which
they could mount to the parapet. The number of men
increased rapidly as night approached, and at last they with
one accord clambered up the bank, sprang upon the parapet,
and bayoneted the defenders of the redoubt with resistless
energy. Who gave the signal for that assault no one can
tell, but the brave fellows went up like one man, and primed
to the full with an eagerness to revenge the comrades they
had seen go down that day, they fell upon the Turks and
slaughtered them like sheep. Within the narrow enclosure
of the redoubt men fought hand to hand in one corner, and
the white flag was flaunted in another, only to give the
enemy time to assemble there for a desperate charge. By
seven o'clock the only sound on the battlerfield was the groan
ing of the wounded, a large part of whom lay on the ground
neglected all night long and bled away their lives, many of
them because they had no attention. Incidents of personal
bravery were so numerous that day that one can almost say
that it was a battle of individuals, and not of masses.
The Russian officers, no less than the men, showed them
selves, every one of them, exceptionally brave and resolute,
Cases are numerous where officers simply threw away
their lives, because they felt it their duty to lead then-
men, instead of going on alongside them. One young
fellow rode a white horse at the head of a company that
charged the great redoubt almost up to the ditch, but, of
course, fell dead in the saddle. The officers led everywhere,
and this accounts for the terrible loss among them. The first
act of the tragedy introduced the commanders, who directed
and manoeuvred the masses ; the second, and the successful
act, was managed by the men, and goes to prove, what indeed
needs no proof, that is, the supreme folly of endeavouring
to face the fire of breechloaders with troops en masse, or in
any closer formation than a thin skirmish line which shall
geek the natural cover of the irregularities of the ground or

FIRST BATTLE OF THE GUARDS. 33
make cover for itself with such means as the soldiers have at
hand.
This first battle of the Guards has proved them the best soldiers
in the army, because while keeping all the time the resolute
purpose of carrying the redoubt as the impelling motive of
everything they did, they had shrewdness enough to appre
ciate the value of cover as a means of accomplishing with the
least loss the capture of a redoubt that would have resisted
just as long as men could be sent against it in masses,
for from the redoubt came a fire that nothing could stand
against. The Guards learned in one day what the other
infantry have been all summer finding out. How long the
tactics of muzzleloading times — the rules of the military
schools which are the fruit of the experience in wars before
the general use of perfected breechloaders — will be clung to
by the Russian officers remains yet to be seen. Certain it is,
however, that the three regiments who fought at Gorny
Dubnik will not forget the lesson they learned there. Per
haps they had been trained in the camp of exercise to deploy
as skirmishers, and to fire from behind trees and bushes and
lumps in the ground ; but nine out of ten of them had never
understood what cover was until that day, and probably had
been abused often enough by the instructing officer, because
they would always fire from the left side of a tree instead
of coveiing the body and taking aim on the right.
At Gorny Dubnik, it is safe to say, they learned more of the
useful tactics of the advanced military school than they
would have ever acquired with the most diligent practice in
peace. The time is long past when men must touch elbows.
The infantry is the great, and I am almost ready to say, the
only effective branch of the service, and as its importance
increases so does the value of the subalterns rise in equal
proportion. A battle will be lost or won as the individual
soldiers conceive and carry out the general plan in the way
and at the hour they find most proper and most promising of
success. Two or three soldiers with a corporal are worth
now what a company with flint locks used to count for, and
in just this degree does the responsibility of the individual
soldier increase. If he goes up with perfect fearlessness, and
VOL. II. D

34 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
obeys without a question the officer who tells him to run up
against a wall that is alive with men, he is well disciplined,
but is none the less a bad soldier, for he throws away his life
uselessly. If men understand that a certain redoubt or a
designated piece of ground must be taken, they will, if they
be intelligent and devoted enough, find a way to do it in
their own fashion, and all the rules in the world about so
many battalions in reserve and so many in skirmish line,
will not help them. General Skobeleff is handling his men
in just this way. Before the battle of the Wooded Hill, on
the 9th of November, he explained to them in full exactly
what he wanted them to do. The men had been a day or
two on picket in sight of the ground, and had studied it well,
of course, because they had been watching for the enemy
there. He told them that he was going along with them
because he knew the ground, and he did not want them to
go further than the line selected for the entrenchments.
Every man in the detachment that led the advance knew
what was expected of him, and set about doing it to the best
of his power. This is the only way to have any success
before the breechloaders, for it is difficult to describe, and it
is, indeed, almost impossible to understand, even on the spot,
the marvellous rapidity of fire, and the enormous quantity of
bullets that whizz in the air. Above the roll of the musketry
is heard the whistling, like a strong wind blowing through
the trees. These are the showers of bullets that rain upon
the ground anywhere within a radius of a mile and a half
from the fight, and the oftener a man hears this sound, the
more its significance becomes clear to him. It means that
every soldier of the thousands engaged is firing several times
a minute, more or less, as he fires at random or takes aim.
The Turk, as is well known, does not take aim, but fires from
the hip when in the open, lays his rifle on the parapet when
behind entrenchments, shoots somewhere in the direction of
his enemy, and depends more on the quantity of bullets he
sends than on the direction of them. When this fact is
borne in mind, it will easily be understood why the propor
tion of dead and wounded is so great in every battle that has
taken place. It is that the troops are under fire for a long

A PROBLEM SOLVED. 35
distance before they can get up near enough to return it, for
the Russian rifles are of so much shorter range than the
Turkish, and this fire decimates the reserves often quite as
much as the advancing body. If the Turks took better aim,
perhaps they would do less damage ; this sounds paradoxical,
but is nevertheless true. It is difficult to hit a line of men
coming up hill when one has to fire over a high parapet at
them, and the greater part of the bullets fired under these
circumstances go over the heads of the line. If the Turks
stopped to take aim they would not fire one- third as fast as
they do, and there would be something like a concentration
of the fire, which would be possibly little more fatal than the
widely-spread promiscuous hail of lead that falls all about a
battle-field.
Of course, every one expected that the Guards, the picked men
of all Russia, would behave admirably ; but how they could
be better soldiers than the infantry of the line was difficult
to see, for nothing could be brought against the latter, unless
it were their utter unconcern and recklessness in presence of
danger. But, as has been described, the Guards have turned
out better soldiers, because they have thrown aside in one
short hour all their parade training, and have gone into the
fight in the only way it was possible to assure success, and
this of their own accord, without previous instructions, and
even against the declared plan of their commanders, who
pointed at the great redoubt, and waved their hands, and
said, " Go into it ! " meaning all the time to say, " Take it
with a rush." The generals and colonels had their turn at
the work, and gave it up ; the individual soldiers solved the
problem in the only natural way under the circumstances.
And this is the reason why I consider the fight at Gorny
Dubnik the most interesting one of the war. There was a
great lesson learned there which may be confidently expected
to have the best of results, and we shall hear no more how
solid lines of Russian infantry advanced into a hot fire, and
stood upright and held their pieces at the charge when they
had no more cartridges, and refused to hide, but fell and
fell, and all to no purpose. Of the sixty thousand odd men
hors de combat — by the way, more than half of them have
d 2

36 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
been thrown away — there is no denying this. The responsi
bility has been placed where it belonged, and all the world,
knows it.
The following letter from a naval correspondent describes
some Russian successes and torpedo attacks on the Danube and
in the Black Sea : —
J Constantinople, November 9th. — In my last letter I gave a slight
sketch of the naval operations of the Turks since the com-
mencement of the war up to the present time, showing how
very little had been done except in the way of transporting
troops. When the war broke out the Turks had a flotilla on
the Danube consisting of the following vessels : — Fethi Islam
(Moslem victory), Burywidelau (heart-piercer), Semendria,
Scodra, and Podgoritza, the last three names taken from
places on or about the Danube. These five vessels were small
craft about 115 feet long, fitted with 80-horse power engines,
and carried each of them two 80-pounder Armstrong guns in
a battery protected by 2-inch armour. In addition to these
armoured gunboats, there were two of recent construction,'
and much more formidable in every respect, the Isher (Hon)
and Saiffee (sword). They each carried two 80-pounder
Krupp guns in revolving turrets on the upper deck, protected
by 3-inch armour, and a belt of the same thickness was
placed round the water-line. Their length was 120 feet, and
the horse-power of the engines 100. These seven vessels,
however, did not form the whole of the naval force, as there
were several wooden steamers armed as gunboats, and soon
after the war the two large sea-going monitors, Loot-fi-Djellil
and Hiftzi Rahuim, were sent up the Sulina branch into the
main river. These last-named ships were a most valuable
addition to the defence, and gave great trouble at first to the
Russian batteries, until one of them came to an end in a
somewhat inexplicable manner — by accident, the Turks say ;
by the effect of their artillery fire, the Russians ; and thus
the affair remains in dispute. The evidence inclines in
favour of the Russian view, though the Loot-fi-Djellil had
been out of action for nearly an hour when the catastrophe

NAVAL OPERATIONS ON THE DANUBE. 37
by which so many human beings were killed took place. At
all events, the fruits of victory were to the Russians, even
though they had been in no wise instrumental in her de
struction. Up to this time nothing was seen of the Russian
torpedoes, though a good deal was said about the Danube
having been mined, and Hobart Pacha was supposed to have
run the gauntlet of all sorts of dangers in the Rethymo. I
think, however, that the manner in which the Turkish ships
moved about is sufficient evidence that nothing in that way
had been done at that time to the main river.
When war. was declared the Russians had nothing afloat on the
Danube, though they probably had a steam launch or so at
Ismail or Vilcova, on the Kilia branch, and had some eight or
ten, all ready for launching, at Galatz, to be used as torpedo
boats. Their first care was necessarily the bridge over the
Sereth, and to protect this against the Turkish gunboats, a
number of torpedoes were unquestionably placed across the
channel where its waters flow into the Danube. In a short
time, however, the Russians were prepared to take the offen
sive with their torpedo launches, and the first fruits was the
destruction of the gunboat Saiffee. The batteries erected
along the Roumanian shore soon put a stop to the circulation
of the Turkish gunboats, and the flotilla was shortly after
wards blocked up in various places by lines of torpedoes laid
across the stream. The Turks themselves assisted to this end,
by keeping the greater number of the vessels moored under
the fortifications of Widdin, Silistria, Nicopolis, and Rust
chuk, instead of making them move up and down to gall the
Russian workmen with their fire, and thus impede the erection
of the hostile batteries. The conduct at this period of those
charged with the defence of the Ottoman Empire is really
inexplicable. They acted as if it had never been the intention
to defend the Danube at all ; not the slightest opposition was
offered to the progress of the enemy's works on the opposite
side of the river, and no provision at all was made for the
movements of the gunboats.
There was no depot of coals at any of the above-named for
tresses, and it was only by an arrangement with the Varna
Railway Company that a small quantity of fuel was obtained

38 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
at Rustchuk. The supineness of the Turkish naval authori.
ties in this respect is extraordinary, for, properly made use
of, this flotilla would have delayed the Russian passage for
weeks. There was an admiral sent to command the gunboats
at least a fortnight before the war, and the state of the coal
depots must have been known weeks before the hostilities
actually commenced. Hobart Pacha is in nowise responsible
for what occurred, for Abdul Kerim deliberately refused to
allow him in any way to interfere with the arrangements that
had been made for the disposal of the squadron. When the
Russians crossed at Sistova there was a gunboat looking on
quietly, and as if regarding the passage of a friendly army,
instead of hostile foes bent upon the destruction of their
power, and after a time she steamed away to report the news
at headquarters. The meaning of all this, as well as the
general neglect of the Danube line of defence in the first
instance, we shall never know, for the Turks are very lenient
to military and political offenders, and such are the rami
fications of intrigues in this country that once an exami
nation were opened no one could say where it could he
decently closed without allowing, perhaps, the most culpable
offenders to escape. Of the armoured gunboats forming
part of the flotilla, three in addition to the turret vessel
Loot-fi-Djellil have been lost to the Turks — namely, the
Saiffee, destroyed by a torpedo, and the Podgoritza and
8codra, which fell into the Russian hands at the taking of
Nicopolis. These two small craft have since been put into
working order, and will no doubt be made use of for
attacking the others. -Besides the vessels above named, the
Turks have lost four wooden vessels — the Sulina, a regular
60-horse power gunboat of the old type, designed for the
Baltic during our war with Russia, and three river
steamers of no particular value as fighting ships, the first-
mentioned by a contact torpedo, and the others by the
fire of the Russian batteries.
To return to the Russian offensive operations. Their next
move was of a far bolder nature, no less than an attack
upon the ironclad squadron lying off Sulina, under the
command of Hassan Pacha, the blockading fleet, in fact,

LIEUTENANT. POUTSHAKINE'S TORPEDO ATTACK. 39
designed to keep the Russian steamers shut up in Odessa
and Sebastopol. A number of steam launches fitted
with pole torpedoes, to be exploded by electricity, came
down at night from Kilia. Hobart Pacha, who at that
time held no special appointment, and was therefore with
out authority, had pointed out to the admiral in command
the exposed position of the Turkish ships, suggesting as a
defence against torpedo attacks a cordon of boats with
ropes or small chains between; but, as usual, the advice
was not followed, the Turks contenting themselves with
keeping a good look-out on board of each ship, and having
a guard-boat or so rowing round. There is reason to
believe that a certain amount of signalling with flashing
lights which preceded the attack aroused the attention of
the Turks, so that they were found on the alert. All the
men were at their quarters, the guns loaded and run out,
and the ships were engaged in slipping their cables when
the enemy's boats came up. The Idjlalieh, an ironclad cor
vette, was the ship singled out by Lieutenant Poutshakine,
who led the attack, and had he been ably seconded by the
other boats, in all probability that ship would have been
destroyed. He bravely brought his little craft under the
bows ; but his torpedo " got foul " either of the spur or
the cable, and so exploded without effecting any injury
to the enemy's vessel. The water thrown up probably
swamped his boat, though she was supposed to have been
sunk by the Turkish fire. She had, however, advanced too
close to the Idjlalieh for that vessel's guns to have pro
duced any such effect, for the gunports of a man-of-war
allow of but very little depression, and the Turkish man-
of-war undoubtedly escaped more by accident than by
good management or a carefully planned defence. The
Russian attack should have been more concentrated; it
failed, and the Turks have therefore every right to claim
the victory. In the meantime the Russians had been fit
ting up several swift merchant steamers and the fast-
steaming yachts of the Emperor, and shortly after this the
Turks were much disgusted at hearing of the destruction
of several of their collier-brigs.

40 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
This was a game the Russians could well play, having such
secure places for retreat as Sebastopol, Odessa, Balaklava,
and Kertch. The run from any one of those ports to the
Turkish coast is very short, so that it is not surprising that
they have hitherto managed to avoid capture. No real
blockade of the Russian ports has ever been instituted, so
that there was nothing to prevent their free egress or
ingress, and the only wonder is that the raids have not been
more frequent. So slightly have the regulations with regard
to blockade been maintained, that Greek ships are now
arriving with corn from the Russian ports, and though an
examination will probably take place, they are almost sure
to escape the penalties of " breach of blockade.'' The
Russian cruisers have been specially well fitted out for their
work. Painted an " invisible " grey, lying low in the water,
with nothing but pole-masts visible above the deck, and
burning smokeless coal, what chance have the lumbering
Turkish ironclads against them in the game of " hare and
hounds." The latter can be seen miles off, their approach
betrayed by the dense cloud of black smoke given out by
the Heraclea coals, and thus the light-heeled enemy, by a
change of course, can always avoid a rencontre. Up to the
present the Russians have made no use of their Popoffkas.
They have been kept well within the harbour of Odessa, and
the presumption is that as fighting ships they have proved
a complete failure. The Russian navy has not made the
progress that was expected, and it would appear that they
have really no very efficient seagoing men-of-war. The
officers and seamen of the Black Sea fleet have, however, done
great service in the way of torpedoes — and perhaps later on,
grown bolder from the impunity which has hitherto attended
their cruising in the Black Sea, the armed steamers may
venture upon more extended operations.
I have not as yet, however, finished the detailed account of
their naval proceedings up to the present, as there is another
torpedo attack to be noticed, and the bombardment of Sulina,
as well as the encounter between the Vesta and the Fetid
Bulend. This last affair, which occurred on the 22nd of July
last, was a very spirited contest between an unarmoured

ATTACK ON THE SULINA SQUADRON. 41
vessel and an ironclad, and the Russians deserve great credit
for ever having thought of escaping in any other manner
than by steaming away at the highest rate of speed. The
Russian torpedo attack at Soukhum-Kale was .aimed at the
Arsari Shefket, an ironclad corvette which was lying on guard
at that place, towards the end of the evacuation. The Russian
steamer Constantine, which appears to be specially fitted up
for torpedo work, brought down some four torpedo launches,
and sent them in on the night of the 24th of August last,
when the eclipse of the moon seemed to offer special ad
vantages in the obscurity which naturally ensued. The
attempt to destroy the corvette was foiled in a great measure
by the guard-boats, as any one of the launches got close to
her, and the torpedo being fired at a distance from the ship's
side, produced no other effect than throwing a quantity of
water upon her decks. The Russians, however, managed to
make good their retreat, and retired under the impression
that the Arsari Shefket was done for, the torpedo having, as
they imagined, blown such a hole in her bottom as would
send her speedily below. Since this affair no other attempt
had been made with torpedo boats against the Turkish fleet,
and the ironclad lying off Sulina is now fitted with an electric
light.
A very skilfully-planned attack against the Sulina squadron
was that, however, of the late bombardment, though it only
resulted in the destruction of a small wooden gunboat. The
attack was of a twofold nature — the enemy were to be lured
over ground previously prepared with contact mines, or, fail
ing this, the ironclads were to be sunk or driven out of the
harbour by mortar-firing, or guns pointed with extreme
elevation. The flotilla safely passed Sulina, and entering
the St. George's branch, which, with their usual want of
foresight, the Turks had neglected to close, proceeded leisurely
to Toulcha, and from thence descended the Sulina river,
seeking for torpedoes as they came. Stopping at the sixth
mile, securely hidden from view by a bend of the river and
the tall reeds of the neighbouring swamps, the torpedo
lighters were sent ahead during the night to lay the mines,
which was most successfully done, though the Turks poured

42 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in a hot fire. The guns of the latter, however, do not ranges
as at present fitted, more than 3,500 yards, so that their
ammunition was only thrown away to no purpose.
The next morning the ill-fated gunboat was sent out beyond
the protecting chains to assist the little Cartal _ tug-boat, -.
which had previously gone up to reconnoitre. From the.
former having safely passed the suspected ground, the Turks
seem to have thought that the Sulina might do the same
with impunity, not taking into consideration the difference in
their draught of water. The Russian contact torpedoes used
on this occasion show to what perfection the art of submarine
mining is now being brought. They combined in their con
struction both the elements of safety in placing them, and
the certainty of explosion when struck by a passing body.
Small bichromate of potass batteries are placed all round the
case, screwed into small cylinders, and each of these is what
is called placed in circuit, with a fuze inserted amongst the
gun-cotton. These electric circuits are not completed until
the mine is placed, and every one has retreated to a safe
distance, when, the main wires being joined, the affair is ready
for action. The batteries did not work, however, as there is
no fluid to complete the arrangement. The solution of
bichromate of potass is placed in a glass tube hermetically
sealed, and protected from accidental fracture by a thick
lead covering. When a ship or other passing object strikes
this arrangement, which projects outside the torpedo case,
the glass tube is broken, and the solution coming in contact
with the zinc and carbon plates, a current of electricity is
immediately generated, and the torpedo explodes. After the
destruction of the Sulina there was not the slightest chance
of getting another vessel to mount the stream, and so the
Russians had to fall back upon the other part of their plan,
and commence the bombardment. This they did from a
safe distance, far beyond the range of the Turkish guns, and
from first to last poured in some two hundred shells, though
the Turkish accounts speak of thousands. No great damage
was inflicted on the town, and none at all on the shipping.
The latter escaped as by a miracle ; the shot and shell fell all
around, but the two corvettes at the booms were never struck

GOURKO'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 43
once, though had only one of the shots, fired with so high a
trajectory, but fallen upon the deck of an ironclad, it would
probably have placed her hors de combat, by sending her to
the bottom, of the river.
With this attack upon Sulina has ceased for the moment the
Russian naval operations in the Black Sea. Hobart Pacha
has left again to resume his command, and will probably be
heard of shortly on the Russian coast.

CHAPTER II.
GENERAL GOURKO'S SECOND EXPEDITION.
On the Road. — The Deserted Village of Teliche. — A Brigade of the Guards. —
General Gourko's Headquarters at Jablonica.— Objects of the Expedition. — ¦
General Rauch's Advance upon Pravca. — Difficulties of the Campaign. — ¦
Fighting in the Mountains. — Sufferings of the Russian Troops. — Capture of
Pravca. — General Dondeville's Advance. — Further Details of General
Rauch's Operations. — The Abandoned Turkish Encampments. — Osikovo. —
The Valley of the Mali Isker. — Occupation of Etropol.
While the Russians were drawing closer and closer their
lines of investment around Plevna, maintaining their positions
at the cost of occasional severe contests, but still affording
their desperate assailants little chance of regaining lost ground,
rumours had been afloat of vigorous preparations on the other
side of the Balkans for the relief of Osman Pacha. In a
secret Grand Council of War held at the Seraskierate, on the
night of the 14th of November, it was resolved to send all
available troops for the reinforcement of what was now known as
the relieving army, under the command of Mehemet Ali Pacha,
whose headquarters at that date were at Sofia ; and it was
stated that the Porte had informed the Austrian Ambassador
at Constantinople that Osman Pacha could still hold out for
four weeks, and that by that time Mehemet Ali Pacha would

44 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
appear before Plevna with a newly-raised army. A few days
later, Mehemet Ali advanced to Orkanieh, and the hopes of
the population of Constantinople were raised to a high pitch
by reports of successful engagements in the Balkans with.
Russian cavalry.
The expectation of relief from this side, however, was,
speedily dispelled. On the 16th of November that brilliant
and adventurous commander, General Gourko, suddenly started
from Dolny Dubnik for the south-west with a considerable
force, and reached Jablonica on the 18th ; where, by sending
out reconnaissances, he obtained trustworthy information regard
ing the strength of the enemy. Before this step, the Russians,
relying upon such information as they had been able to obtain,
had estimated that the Turkish forces at Orkanieh, Etropol,
and Sofia, probably amounted to fifty thousand men. The
result of General Gourko's reconnaissances was to reduce this
estimate by nearly one-half ; and the Russian General's opera
tions, which seemed to have been originally designed to be of
a tentative nature, hereupon assumed a wider range and a more
decisive character. General Rauch was entrusted with the
command of a force destined to attack Pravca, General Gourko
at the same time advancing to Osikovo. The capture of Pravca
was followed by the occupation of Etropol, the loss of which
important position necessitated the abandonment by the Turks
of Orkanieh. The true nature and consequences of these rapid
and important movements among the first Balkans, which are
among the most interesting operations of the war, will be
understood from the following letters : —
-f Headquarters of General Gourko, Jablonica, Sofia Road,
in the Balkans, November 18th. — Nothing can be more dreary
than a deserted village. The open doors and windows seem
to have an expression like the grinning of a skull, and a row
of small houses is as unsightly as a shelf in the cabinet of an
ethnologist. Teliche was once a flourishing town. Along the

teliche. 45
main street are large shops and occasional cafes, and there
are many houses of more than ordinary size and of some
architectural pretension. The village lies, as indeed almost
all in Bulgaria do, in a little valley, and is spread out over
the slopes half a mile in either direction from the fountains,
the centre of the town. The courtyards are strewn with
fresh straw, all that remains of the harvested grain that a
few days ago was stacked in abundance here ; the camp fires
of the soldiers are kept burning from the brush fences and
wicker corn-bins, and even the porticoes of adjacent houses
supply fuel for the great flames that blaze along the roadway
as soon as a detachment or a waggon train halts. Everything
eatable has long since been devoured, and Teliche could not
keep its dogs alive if it were not for what the army brings.
With their characteristic thriftlessness, the Russians strew
their route with hay and straw, and every camp is paved
with hard bread and meat rations, furnishing abundant food
for great droves of dogs, who stroll about the villages and
disturb the quiet of the night with their discordant howl-
ings. There is something uncanny about a deserted house
with the wolf-like dogs prowling about, starting up from
every corner and slinking away with snarls and howls as any
human being approaches. Their jaws perhaps are drabbled
with the blood of a dead horse they have been tearing to
pieces ; nearly every one limps about on three legs, for they
fight among themselves with ferocity, and they seem to have
little or no sympathy with their own race or with their
masters. Pushing on from Teliche, southward, one finds the
road, which a few miles back was so straight and broad, now
winding and narrow, often neglected and full of great ruts
and holes. The telegraph poles are nearly all standing.
There is plenty of straw and nnthrashed grain in the villages
we pass, and little or no destruction is noticeable. The
chaussee crosses the river Panega, a branch of the Isker, on a
single Roman arch of stone high above the water. To the left
of the bridge, in a narrow valley, is the village of Radomirce,
with a burned mosque, but with a large number of houses
standing unharmed, with the courtyards full of stacks of
grain and unopened bins. The Turkish camps were on the

46 ' WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
level spots along the highway, and the ditch about the tents
are still fresh there. A couple of miles beyond Radomirce is
the village of Lukovic ; like the former, full of grain and
straw, and evidently almost entirely Turkish. We ride into
the yard of the first house that looks promising, and dismount
to feed the horses and take a late luncheon. Every building';
in the yard is full of Bulgarians who have taken possession
of them, and have set up their household gods for a brief
rest in their flight to what they consider a place of safety.
They are quite a different type from the Bulgarians near the
Danube ; the men are straight, well-formed, and intelligent-
looking, and the women are not unattractive, in spite of their
unpicturesque costume of a scanty skirt and jacket combined
of coarse blue cloth. It is evident that the Bulgarian of the
mountain and the Bulgarian of the Roumanian frontier are
two quite different people, for when we entered the house we
were received with a genuine hospitality. Low, three-legged
stools were given us to sit upon by the fire, and the old woman,
the mother of an intelligent young fellow of twenty- two years
or so, related with a good deal of dramatic expression the
story of their flight from the Turks, who killed one of the
sons, seized the cattle and the horses, and carried away the
carts. She told how a hundred Bulgarians had been massacred
in the village where we then were, and seemed to feel more
keenly the cruelty of this deed than the sufferings of her own
family. She kneaded for us a great lump of dough without
yeast or salt, for these were not to be had in the village, and
baked thin, flat loaves in the ashes, covering them up with
hot coals, and when baked scraping off the burned portions.
In the yard of the house were a number of wicker bins,
thatched with maize stalks and lined with mud. Every one
of these was filled with wheat, barley, or shelled Indian corn.
Although this belonged to the Bulgarians by right of posses
sion, they gave us freely whatever we wanted, and showed
none of that sordid spirit which I have found everywhere,
without exception, in the villages nearer the Danube. For
the first time in the campaign I found something like human
sympathy and intelligence in the people, and I am now ready
to believe, what has often been said, that among and beyond

AN ALARM. 47
the Balkans the Bulgarian is of nobler composition than those
of the northern section of the country. In the large Turkish
graveyard on the hill, as we went out of the town, I noticed
many fresh graves ; and along the road further on, at frequent
intervals, similar mounds, with little pointed stones at either
end, showed when Turks had been recently buried. It was
nearly dark as we reached Bloznica, at the entrance of the
great hills, that are piled higher and higher until snow rests
on their summits away in the southern horizon. Here again
was a land of plenty, and no Bulgarians were there to share
the harvest. Already the soldiers had strewn the straw all
along the streets and paths on their way to the road, whither
they brought forage for the animals, and in the yard where
we settled for the night the ground was covered a foot deep
with unthrashed wheat. Bins of Indian corn and wheat were
ranged along near the stream that flowed behind the house,
and we went to sleep with the horses contentedly grinding
maize near our heads.
The rattle of drums, the blowing of bugles, and the bustle
of packing among the waggons that were parked near
our camp, brought us to our feet about ten o'clock. There
was the report that a band of Bashi-Bazouks had cut the
road between Bloznica and Radomirce, and to support
the word of the Cossack who brought the news an occa
sional rifle-shot was heard in the direction indicated. Three
companies of infantry happened to be encamped near the
village, but the large force was several versts south along the
chaussee. First one company and then another passed on the
double-quick in the direction of Radomirce, and the third
drew up across the road ; the few ambulances that were also
halted for the night were gathered together close by, and we
all stood and waited for whatever was going to happen. We
waited, and all was still for an hour, and then report coming
that there was nothing serious, we went to sleep again,
relieved that we were spared the horrors of a night combat,
however small it might have been ; for although the moon,
shining through a cloudy sky, made the night agreeably
light, still we were in a country quite strange to us, and did
not even know our way about the village. The next morning

48 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
it turned out that some artillerymen on the road had run in
part of a flock of sheep, and a squad of Cossacks made a
rush for the rest of them, and fired to bring them down. The
Cossack patrol on the chaussee, hearing the firing, and possibly
seeing the manoeuvres indistinctly in the night, galloped
away to the nearest village with the report of an attack.
On the road early the next morning we overtook a brigade of
the Guard on their way to Jablonica, a dozen miles distant
from Bloznica. I could think of nothing but a great grey
caterpillar as the solid column wound about between walls of
rock up the gorge toward the blue peaks in the distance.
The hairs of this enormous grub were the bayonets that
bristled along the line, and the regular step and the waves of
movement as the column passed some irregularity in the road
made the impression all the more vivid. Leaving the River
Panega, the Sofia road mounts by a gentle incline the first
great hill of the Balkan range. From the summit of this
hill is a wonderfully fine view of the mountains. Directly in
front and across a deep valley, where the chaussee winds to
the left toward the village of Jablonica among the trees, and
paths lead to' the villages of Zahardzik and Oreshe on the
right, rises the Dragovica, pushing its wooded crags out of
the grain-fields along • its flanks, and cutting against the sky
with a silhouette of peaks and precipices, a majestic barrier,
the first gate of the Balkans. A mile or two further on, down
into the valley and up again upon the shoulder of the moun
tain, we reach Jablonica, a Bulgarian village of very few
houses, but many of them commodious and well built, with a
church of unusual size and a school alongside it — altogether
a place which has an air of civilization and enterprise about
it. The headquarters of General Gourko are in a large
building of Turkish architecture, and near at hand the staff
find rooms in comfortable houses. The troops are encamped
about among the oak-trees on the hillside, and have plenty
of forage for the horses and wood for fires. All the houses
have roofs of heavy slabs of slate, and an accident of rather
a serious nature which has happened here has taught the
soldiers not to meddle with the framework of the houses, as
they might do with impunity in other villages through which

IN THE BALKANS AGAIN. 49
we have passed. General Gourko issued the most strict
orders that the men should not destroy the buildings for fire
wood, and should not cut down fruit-trees or damage property
in any way. A half-dozen soldiers were prowling about for
wood, and went into the cellar of a house, and finding there
a dozen or more strong supporting posts, reasoned among
themselves that they were not disobeying orders because they
were getting wood from underground, and then that two posts
would support a house just as well as a dozen, and proceeded
to cut away the timber. The house came down with a crash
and buried these soldiers in the ruins, and they crawled out
without a scratch. Four others, however, who were sleeping
beside the house, were seriously cut and bruised, one of them
mortally wounded, it is thought. So, then, here we are fairly
in the Balkans, for the great wall of Dragovica is between
us and the north. The outposts occupy the heights near
Orkanieh, and there are fortified positions ten miles up the
road. The country everywhere about here is most picturesque ;
the valley of the Vid near by is as charming as can be, but
the season is rather far advanced for excursions, and the
Bashi-Bazouks might interrupt any pleasure trip that carried
one far from the troops.
The following two letters are from another pen : —
t General Gourko's Headquarters, Osikovo, Sofia Road,
November 24<th. — General Gourko's movement has been
talked of for some time past, even mentioned in journals
long since as decided upon. It may be well to state that it
has not even yet been finally resolved upon, except as a
tentative move, and that General Gourko has permission to
attempt it only when he has secured this road so as to
prevent the Turkish commander in Sofia from extending
a hand to Osman Pacha in Plevna, and if he finds a favour
able opportunity for making the passage. The prosecution of
the attempt, therefore, depends greatly upon circumstances,
among others on Osman making a desperate effort to
escape by this side, which might necessitate a backward
movement on General Gourko's part, and again on the
resistance he may meet within the Balkans, the exploration
VOL. II. E

50 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of the various passes, and on his own judgment of the situa
tion. Nothing, in short, is finally decided, and General
Gourko has no positive orders; nevertheless, his forward
movement has begun.
General Gourko left Dolny Dubnik on the 16th. He reached
Jablonica on the 18th, where he halted until the 22nd, while
pushing reconnaissances in different directions, and obtaining
information regarding the passes and the numbers and dis
positions of the Turks. It soon appeared that the enemy
had occupied very strong positions just on this side the village
of Pravca, four or five miles this side of the Orkanieh road.
Here, before entering the valley . of the Orkanieh, it passes
through a very narrow crooked defile, between rugged •
mountains, whose sides along the road are so steep in most
places, that a man unencumbered by arms and not subjected
to the fire of an enemy, would find it impossible to get np.
To take such positions by an attack in front was clearly out
of the question. It was absolutely necessary to turn them,
and this General Gourko, with his experience of the previous
passage of the Balkans, and knowledge of the strong and
weak sides of the Turkish soldier, was all the more inclined
to attempt. It was, however, no easy matter.
The mountain paths there, so far from being passable for -
artillery as reported, were scarcely practicable for a man
on horseback, and none but the hardiest riders with the
surest footed horses would think of climbing these steep,
slippery paths without dismounting. Nevertheless, General
Gourko resolved to make the attempt.
The Turkish positions were nearly all on the right side of the
road. Although they had occupied the other side, they had '
constructed here no redoubts, and dug no trenches, judging
correctly that if they could hold the heights on the right
side of the road, that would be quite sufficient to bar the
passage. On this side they had constructed two small
redoubts, encircled by mountains, every point commanding
the defile with their formidable trenches. A glance at the
Austrian map will show that the Sofia road at Pravca turns
abruptly west to Orkanieh at right angles to its previous
course. Just in this angle will be seen the mountain ridge

rauch's auxiliary movement. 51
on which is written the name Vichstande. It was this ridge
overlooking the road that the Turks had chosen for their
positions, and it was by reaching and attacking the ridge
from the other end that General Gourko determined to turn
them. He accordingly despatched General Rauch with the
whole of the advanced guard to execute this movement with
the Simionowsky regiment of the Guard, the first and second
battalions of sharpshooters, one battery of horse artillery,
and six squadrons of cavalry.
Rauch started from Jablonica on the 21st, with orders to march
all night, as the distance was only forty kilometres by the
map. It was expected he would arrive at noon next day in
time to attack. This was a grave miscalculation. Mountain
roads cannot be measured on maps, or the distance should be
estimated at twice or thrice that indicated, and the time
required for a single horse to make it should be doubled or
trebled for the march of an army encumbered with artillery.
Rauch, instead of arriving on the 22nd at noon, only arrived
on the evening of the 23rd. This was the only miscalcula
tion in the whole movement, and it did not affect the result.
His road was from Jablonica to Vidrar, thence down the
Mali or little Isker to Kalugerovo, then up the little stream
called the Pravecka, to the rear of the ridge occupied by the
Turks. The road was so difficult and so narrow in many
places, that broad track artillery carriages could only pass
with one wheel over the side. They were only kept from
tumbling over the precipices by the soldiers holding them by
means of ropes passed round the wheels. The heavy muni
tion waggons were worse still, and caused infinite trouble.
Rauch, besides, found it impossible to march at night, owing
to the dense fog which fills up the valleys here nearly every
night at this season of the year, and renders travelling very
dangerous, if not impossible.
Meantime, while Rauch was struggling on against these
difficulties, General Gourko advanced to Osikovo, and waited
for news of him with much anxiety before beginning demon
strations in front. His hope was to surprise the Turks,
which could only be done by a rapid movement ; but the
day passed away, evening came, and with it word from
E 2

52 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Rauch that he had only got to Kalugerovo, still a long way
from his expected destination. The attack would have to be
given up for that day at least ; but in the meantime General
Gourko had not been idle. The Kuban Cossacks advanced
along the road and drove the Turks from the hill in front of
the main position on the right of the road. The Moscow
Regiment was sent to occupy the hills on the left of the road
opposite the Turkish positions, which they succeeded in
doing with the loss of three or four men. One battery of
horse artillery, and another of mountain howitzers, were also
brought up here, and planted on the heights immediately
overhanging the road opposite the Turkish works, and not
more than one thousand yards distant, and another battery
was planted to the right of the road on the hill, at a
distance of about two thousand yards from the nearest
Turkish position. These were the only two batteries
brought into action on this side. They were put in position
on the night of the 22nd, and opened on the Turks on the
morning of the 23rd, when the fog cleared away.
The Turks answered but feebly, as they had but two gnns,
and these were poorly served. They did not fire more than
ten or fifteen times all day. These two batteries pounded
away at the Turks. All day long sharpshooters kept up a '
lively fire, but there was no infantry attack.
At last, about four o'clock in the afternoon, Rauch's troops
were suddenly perceived on the top of the high mountain
and the other end of the ridge, on the range just where they
were looked for, with the Turks flying down the mountain side
before them. Rauch had seized the key of the Turkish position
with a loss of twenty -nine men. As this was the highest part
of the ridge or range, it was impossible for the Turks to hold
the positions attacked in the rear from the heights that com
manded them. It was evident they were beaten, and only the
approaching night and the fog prevented Rauch's troops from
continuing their march along the ridge and attacking at once.
The Moscow Regiment on the left of the road now began to
descend the height into the valley near Pravca, and the
Turks on the heights on the other side of the road opened a
spirited fire upon them ; but as the object of the Russian

CAPTURE OF TURKISH POSITIONS. 53
movement was to turn the Turkish position from this side
as well as the other, and as the plain was wide enough to
get out of range of the Turkish fire, they did not lose a man.
They quietly occupied Pravca, where they were likewise
stopped by the fog and the darkness from joining Rauch
and cutting off the Turkish retreat.
The Turks were now surrounded on three sides. As was
expected, they retreated upon Orkanieh during the night,
abandoning the whole position. They seem to have had
enough men to protect their rear. Nevertheless, to judge by
Rauch's easy victory, they did not fight as the Turks fought
at Plevna, or the victory would have cost the Russians at 'least
ten, or perhaps twenty times what it has cost them. The
whole loss was only about sixty men killed and wounded.
If we were to judge of the victory by the loss of men it would
be but an insignificant affair, but military events are not to
be judged in this way. It is not the passage of the Balkans
yet, as there is still a higher range before us which may
prove more difficult ; nevertheless, there are several passes
or places where a passage may be effected for making a
turning movement, and the Turks have not troops to defend
all. It is only a question of time and weather. These
passes are difficult, but they can be made if the weather
permits, and the weather, so far, remains delightful,
excepting the fog at night.
We are now in the valley of Orkanieh. Our advance guard is
at Lazan. There appear to be two Turkish redoubts in
front of Orkanieh, which we see clearly, and a good many
troops about in several camps. They are estimated at eight
thousand men. The whole Turkish force here, at Etropol,
and Sofia, is reckoned at between twenty and twenty-five
thousand men. It is likely that General Gourko will seize
the town of Orkanieh itself without attempting to force the
Pass behind it. His further movements will then depend
on the success of the demonstration against Etropol made at
the same time as the attack here by General Dondeville, with
a brigade from Loftcha. General Gourko's intention now is
to attack and take this place, as both it and Orkanieh would
furnish good winter quarters.

54 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Night. — News has just been received here that Etropol is taken.-
This is no less important than Pravca. There are two roads
and passes behind Etropol, either or both of which may he
attempted by General Gourko. One leads to Babamonak,
behind Orkanieh, and would therefore enable him to turn
the Orkanieh Pass altogether, and cut off the troops stationed
there from Sofia; the other leads to Slatica, and General
Gourko having left a sufficient force at Pravca to hold
Sofia might march to Kezanlik, attack Reouf there on one
side, while Radetzky attacked on the other, and thus take
Reouf between two fires and two armies — together more
than double his strength — with a result that cannot he
doubtful. It is likely, however, that General Gourko will
try to destroy the Sofia army before going further ; but it
will be seen that he has several plans before him, either of
which may be carried out unless he should be called back
towards Plevna by some desperate attempt of, Osman, which
does not seem probable. At any rate, it is not likely that
the Sofia army will make any very serious opposition to
General Gourko's splendid army, which is probably twice as
strong.
t General Skobeleff's Headquarters, Brestovec, Loftcha
Road, November 26th. — I have just returned here from
Osikovo, in the Balkans. General Gourko was starting for
Etropol when I left, undoubtedly with the intention of
trying a passage towards Slatica. This pass was unfortified
five days ago, and although the Turks could have fortified it
since, it does not appear probable that they have done so.
They are fighting with little heart. Besides having neither
the courage nor the discipline of Osman's army, they are not
armed so well. Three or four kinds of arms have been cap
tured, principally Sniders. They have very few Peabodys,
and some have even old-fashioned muzzleloaders.
General Rauch was shelling the two redoubts in front of
Plevna from the mountain range opposite captured by him.
The sound of his artillery followed me to Jablonica, but
while General Gourko has left a considerable force here to
watch Orkanieh, I do not think he meditated an immediate

BAD WEATHER. 55
attack. He would probably prefer turning it, taking it in
the rear, by marching from Slatica to the junction of the
Sofia road, in which case the Turks at Orkanieh would be
completely cut off and obliged to surrender. They are
estimated at eight thousand men, but the success of General
Gourko's movement, as I have already said, depends on the
weather. That, unfortunately, has changed- The change
began when I was at Dolny Dubnik, and became so heavy
before reaching here that it- was difficult, what with the fog,
to find my way. It is now pouring in torrents, with a very
cold wind blowing, and it looks as though it might last some
days. I am afraid this sudden change will interfere very
much with General Gourko's movement. Two or three
days' rain will render these mountain paths impassable.
However, he may get through, and succeed in opening the
road before the weather finally breaks up.
I was much struck with the manner in which General Gourko
handles his forces. He is more cautious than in the summer.
There is much more order and foresight displayed,. a,nd also
more precision in the movements, which begin to remind one
of the Prussians. I predict a great success for General
Gourko, unless his plans are foiled by the weather. The
Turks, I may remark, probably having heard of the Russian
reluctance for building bridges,, have very kindly left all the
bridges — and they are numberless — uninjured.. The Turks
have burnt no villages along the road, but have murdered a
great many Bulgarians. A woman in Lukovic told me
that all her relations had been murdered within the last
month.
The Bulgarians are returning to the abandoned villages. Those
from the burnt villages nearer the Danube, as Tristenek,
have installed themselves comfortably in the Turkish houses.
The wounded from Plevna dragged themselves along this
road until they lay down and died by the wayside. The
Turks have not even enough feeling to look after their own
wounded, and, indeed, the Russians murdered on the field of
battle by the Bashi-Bazouks are more fortunate than the Turk
ish wounded. The Turkish population have all fled over the
Balkans. They are even flying from Orkanieh. The day

56 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
after the capture of Pravca, we saw what appeared to he
the exodus of the whole population of Orkanieh flying along
the Sofia road with their goods and chattels.
I have purposely abstained from mentioning the strength of
General Gourko's force. I can only say it is much larger
than any force he can possibly meet before reaching Kezanlik, k
should he go there. According to all appearance the Turks
are on their last legs. My belief is they have, after one
campaign, reached that condition of exhaustion which,
during the American war, preceded the collapse of the
Southern Confederacy. As Sherman said of the Con
federacy in the last year of the American civil war, the
Turkish Empire is now a mere shell. Once the Russians
break through the outside crust, where all the strength is
displayed, they will find absolutely nothing to oppose them.
The war might be brought to an end in two months, were it
not for the approach of winter. The Russians are just one
month too late, but they may even yet accomplish it this
winter.
The writer of the two foregoing letters having, as will have
been observed, rejoined the army of investment, the narrative of
the operations under General Gourko in the Balkans will
for a time be furnished by the correspondent whose letter,
dated from Jablonica, on the 18th, has already given some in
formation regarding this important episode in the history of the
war. The following letters describe, from other points of view,
operations with which the reader is already acquainted : —
+ Headquarters of General Rauch, Pravca, near Orkanieh,
November 24sth. — The mountain sides were echoing with the
sounds of heavy cannonading and brisk musketry fire as I
rode along the Sofia road southward yesterday morning,
across the river Mali Isker, and past the village of Osikovo,
the present headquarters of General Gourko. The day was
warm ; the sun was shining in the almost cloudless heavens.
Seen through the clear air the distant troops could be dis
cerned among the precipitous mountain paths, which zig-

MORE FIGHTING 57
zagged among the rocks and trees and lost themselves near
the top. This force was the left flank of the central column,
and the Turkish position, I soon saw from the puffs of smoke
of the bursting Russian shells, was along the range of
mountains forming the southern horizon.
Riding at once to the battery, I found that the troops were all
in position, and were only waiting for the movements of the
other two columns, the one from the direction of Etropol, the
other commanded by General Rauch, which was expected to
debouch upon the western extremity of the range of peaks
held by the Turks. Meantime a regular cannonade was kept
up by the battery of nine-pounders near the road, making
targets of the Turkish redoubts on the opposite peaks, and
now and then sending shells into the lines of the intrench-
ments about the eastern end of the range. From the battery
the road descends sharply to the eastward, curving around
the range commanded at every point by the Turkish positions,
then out into the plain past Pravca to Orkanieh. A few
sharpshooters who ventured down the road kept up an
irregular fire against the redoubts on the peaks above, and
skirmished with the Bashi-Bazouks who swarmed in the
woods along the route. The only signs of life in the Turkish
positions were occasional shells from the battery of two guns
posted on a prominent peak, all of which fell far short, and
the frequent rattling volleys from the earthworks.
In order to get a view of the whole of the field of operations,
I climbed the steep I had observed as I came along the road.
From this point a landscape of wonderful beauty was dis
closed on every side. Southward could be seen all the
Turkish earthworks, the range of which, even from this posi
tion, cut off the view of the valley beyond, except where
Pravca is seen lying among green fields a short distance west
of the road which turns around behind the Turkish position,
and runs westward towards Orkanieh. Enjoying thoroughly
the varied succession of charming views from the east, where
the great broken mountain hides Etropol and the Mali Isker,
through the south and west, where the blue peaks towards
Sofia form the distant horizon, to the north, where beyond
the brown forests and dull yellow fields rises the isolated

58 war correspondence.
mass of the Dragovica, the first gate of the Balkans, near
Jablonica, the day passed pleasantly, somewhat enlivened by
watching the shells burst. We had become familiar with the
sound of the enemy's shells plumping into the mountain
below on our right. To be sure, the hostile force was
scattered along the peaks less than rifle range away, and
separated only by a narrow gorge with precipitous sides.
Cannon on the peak where we were, and below to the left,
sent their shots home to the mark every time, but we did
not suspect the Turks of playing us a trick. They did, how
ever, and chose the moment when we sat down to eat our
luncheon in the shade to burst shrapnel over our heads. It
was the only one they sent, and if they had sent another it
would not have found us again.
The sun was already low in the heavens, and the cannon smoke
began to take a delicate purple tinge, when the enemy's
battery away down near Pravca fired rapidly, and the echoes
of the shots behind the range down in the valley hidden
from us resounded through the gorge. Rauch was over the
mountain and would soon be in sight, we hoped. Suddenly
we saw, away on the right of the opposite range, puffs of
smoke on the crest of the flat-topped peak, and then, even
before the reports of the shot reached us, a close line of men
rose up against the sky on the top of the earthwork, and
another and broken line straggled quickly down and away
from the first, one or two men stopping to fire, but generally
running down the steep declivity into the undergrowth. The
black masses which had been lying there all the afternoon
were suddenly animated as the horizon became alive with the
forms of Russian soldiers, and they swept in a mass down
the incline, little puffs of smoke bursting from nearly every
rifle, for they fired as they ran. The line of Russians stood
a moment on the earthwork, firing rapidly, then leaped down
and skirmished after the flying Turks almost within bayonet
ing distance. This was the attack of General Rauch, and it
was as unexpected and welcome to us as it must have been
surprising and discouraging to the Turks. Almost imme
diately solid formations were visible on the peak, one com
pany to the left on the further side and a short line of skir-

A BRILLIANT EPISODE. 59
mishers, followed by two companies advancing along the path
on the side of the mountain towards us, now in deep shadow.
They disappeared behind the base of the next nearest summit.
This brilliant little episode, occurring as it did in full sight
of all the troops, just as if it were enacted on a stage in an
immense theatre, caused the greatest enthusiasm and excite
ment among them. The batteries took the first note of the
fight on the mountain as a signal to fire volley after volley
into the redoubts on the west end of the range, and the
narrow gorge echoed and echoed again, and the mountain
sides repeated and magnified the awful sound of the shells
as they tore their way through the thin air. The shrapnel
rattled and cracked all over the summits where the Turks,
now excited, kept up a constant rifle-fire, and the peaceful
quiet of the twilight hour was changed to Pandemonium by
the clanging and screeching of the shells pounding the
mountain top. A cool breeze springing up from the north
began to drive the low-lying clouds through the valleys,
while Rauch's advance appeared on the mountain, and soon
great masses of mist poured through the gorge, rising higher
and higher, and sweeping over the Turkish redoubts. Just
as they were seen to direct their fire with redoubled energy
down into the valley towards Pravca there came up to us a
sharp popping of musketry below, and we knew it was the
Moscow Regiment. It had accomplished its march, and was
making its contemplated movement around the range along
the road. The fog hid the valley and Pravca from our sight ;
but until the opposite side was shrouded in the drifting mist
we could tell exactly how far the infantry was advancing by
the direction of the Turkish fire from the redoubts. Rauch's
engagement was literally a battle above the clouds. In a few
moments both those below and those in the clouds were
enveloped in the same great mass of opaque mist, and the
firing ceased.
We were now on an island in a great grey sea, for the clouds
had driven in on all sides, hiding completely the earth below,
and even the adjacent peaks. A faint streak of yellow still
lingered in the western horizon, and all about us rose out of
the rolling waves of mist the sharp purple peaks like islands

60 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in a frozen Arctic sea. The soldiers lighted their camp fires
among the bushes, and we were all prepared to bivouac there.
Perfect quiet reigned. The moon rose grandly out of the
clouds and lighted up the weirdly impressive landscape. On
came great rolling waves of mist, appearing solid as snow
in the cold moonlight. Around us were the forms of horses
picketed in the undergrowth, groups of soldiers gathered
about the fires, solitary sentinels motionless at their posts.
It was a picturesque scene to be long remembered.
About seven o'clock we heard hurrahs on the range opposite,
and the victorious cheering was taken up and repeated all
along the line, from peak to peak and down into the valley ;
but the redoubts were not yet taken, and the quiet of the
night was broken again.
At two o'clock we heard distinctly through the mist, as if very
near us, first a few shots, then the cries of the surprised
Turks, and the Russian soldiers shouting to one another,
some to let the Turks run away if they chose, some to
bayonet them on the spot. The oaths, the groans, and the
smallest words came clearly to our ears, and we knew that
the remaining positions were taken. One hundred and fifty
volunteers from the Isma Etowsky and Moscow Regiments
had climbed the steep mountain side, and fallen upon the
few Turks that remained, only thirty or forty, and driven
them out without losing a man.
This morning a drizzling rain has drenched everything. The
clouds that we had poetized over the evening before had
risen, ahd turned to rain, and we could not see the length of
the small bivouac. Towards the middle of the forenoon
the clouds broke, and we could see down to Pravca. So we
led the horses with great difficulty by a tortuous, untrodden
route into the valley, where we met General Gourko and Mb
staff on the road, and all climbed the mountain by a well-
cut path to the Turkish position.
The day was now quite clear, and the great fertile valley lay
below us, bounded on all sides by the serrated summits of
the high mountains. Orkanieh was plainly visible three
miles away, and all about the town the tents of great camps,
even upon the flanks of the adjacent mountains. Between

CAPTURE OF THE FIRST PASS. 61
the village of Lazan and Orkanieh two great redoubts black
with troops occupy a low ridge, and behind the town on the
slopes of the mountains are other fortifications. Beyond
Orkanieh the road turns around the point of the mountain
and enters the defile of the Baba Konak Pass, at the entrance
of which nestles the village of Vracesi. The mountain
we were on is exceedingly sharp, and the Turkish works
could have been carried only as they were by the flank.
About two score of the enemy's dead were found on the
mountain.
,+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Etropol, in the Bal
kans, November 27th. — The occupation of the first pass of
the Balkans was such a signal success that the details of
the movement of General Rauch's column — the one which
turned the Turkish position — will' doubtless be of general
interest. The whole affair was from beginning to end
exceedingly dramatic and picturesque, full of little events
of unusual significance, as testifying to the individual enter
prise and courageous devotion of the soldiers. General
Rauch's force was composed of three hundred Kuban
Cossacks, two battalions of sharpshooters, one battery of
horse artillery, and the Simionowsky regiment of the
Guards. It marched in the order in which the troops are
named, at two o'clock in the afternoon of the 21st, from
the camp at Jablonica, with instructions to reach, if possible,
the crest of the range of mountains bordering the Orkanieh
valley in the north the next day. It was then to co-operate
with the two other columns, one of which marched down the
Sofia road, and the other off to the right to make a demon
stration against Etropol. On the Austrian map the distance
from the village of Jablonica in a south-westerly direction to
the valley of Orkanieh appears to be a short day's march,
but the roads or mountain paths are so tortuous that the real
distance to be traversed is nearer fifty kilometres than fifteen,
to say nothing of the difficulties of the ascents and descents,
and the condition of the paths.
The column marched three hours only the first afternoon, and
bivouacked from five until eight o'clock, when it moved

62 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
again, continued to march the whole night, and reached
Vidrar, a village in the Mali Isker, at eight o'clock in the
morning. At the first bivouac no fires were lighted, and the
men ate their hard bread without soup or tea. The stay at
Vidrar was very short, for it became apparent that unless it
pushed rapidly on the force would not arrive until long after
it was expected. The Bulgarian guides said that if the
route which had been decided upon were followed it would
lead upon the right of the Russian position, and not around
the left of the Turkish line, so a new route was chosen, and
the detachment advanced as rapidly as possible. The paths
from Vidrar southward were all simple mountain trails, over
which probably no wheels had ever passed, and it became a
matter of infinite difficulty to bring along the artillery, and
especially the caissons with the ammunition. There were
some one hundred and twenty picks and shovels with the
force, and a corresponding number of men were detailed to
clear the road and make it passable, working in two reliefs of
sixty men each. The cannon were moved by twos, and each
pair had attached to it two companies of infantry who
assisted the cannons and caissons to pass the difficult places,
working also in reliefs of half their number. The path led
along the ravine where the Mali Isker twisted and turned
among the crags, and before they left the river to take the
direction of the village Kalugerovo, the next village on the
route, they had crossed it ten times, each time with mucK
trouble. The way led over great ledges of hard, flinty rock,
full of seams and fissures, so difficult for the horses to pass
that several of them caught their feet in the crevices and
tore the hoof from the bone. Horses were not too numerous,
and it was impossible to proceed without them, so the hoof-
less feet were bound up in rags, and the poor beasts limped
along dragging the heavy caissons and guns. The whole day
of the 22nd they climbed along the mountain paths, step by
step, not advancing two kilometres an hour. The men tied
ropes to the muzzles of the guns, and kept them from falling
over the precipices, but three caissons full of ammunition
went over in spite of all efforts to prevent the accident, and
two horses were killed and one Cossack mortally wounded;

SUFFERINGS of THE TROOPS. 63
the other men who were with the caissons scrambled up in
time to save themselves. The men proposed to leave the
remaining caissons, and to carry the powder and shells singly
by hand ; but as this was, first, contrary to general orders,
and, secondly, a proceeding evidently too dangerous to be
permitted, the efforts to bring forward the caissons were
renewed with redoubled energy.
What the men suffered on that long march no one may fully
describe. They had only their hard bread to eat, and they
were accustomed to meat and plenty of it. Loaded with a
great deal of ammunition, they drew themselves up from rock
to rock with severe labour, for it must be remembered they
were not mountaineers. On past the village of Kalugerovo,
where they left two cannon for want of horses, they reached
at last the village of Lakavica, near the river Pravecka, at
nine o'clock in the evening. Having met ten of the enemy,
a small band of Bashi-Bazouks on the road, they were
obliged to take extraordinary precautions to keep silent, and
finding it quite out of the question to proceed by the
unexplored paths in the night, the dense fog which had
enveloped the landscape all day still clinging to the earth,
they decided to bivouac, and they lay down without fire, and
slept in an instant. Two men died of fatigue on the spot,
the rest were so worn with want of sleep and severe exer
tions that they were like drunken men, and every man of the
outposts was found by the officers who went the rounds to
be dead asleep, and no scolding or threats could keep them
awake, although they were in the very face of the enemy.
The horses trembled all night, not from cold, but from over
work, and they threw themselves flat the moment they were
taken from the traces.
The night, chill as it was, seemed far too short to the exhausted
men, and on the morning of the 23rd they worked their way
on again, crossing the Pravecka, and following up the ravine
to the right and southward. A single mountain range, partly
held by the Turks, now separated them from the plain of
Orkanieh, and the end of their climb seemed at hand.
Suddenly came a sharp infantry fire upon the column from
the heights along the ravine, where it made a turn around a

64 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
mountain; and, though not completely surprised, there was,
of course, a halt and a general fusillade. Two hundred
Kuban Cossacks had already passed the point where the
Turks were assembled, so they dismounted and left their
horses and climbed up the precipitous mountain side to get
upon the flank of the enemy. At the same time two bat
talions worked their way up the crags higher and higher
towards the summit until they looked like ants crawling
along among the bushes and rocks. The enemy continued
their fire, and, of course, shooting too high, did little.
damage, only wounding two men and killing and wounding
several horses. The appearance of the infantry in front and
the dismounted Cossacks on the flank demoralized the Turks,
and they fled, having delayed the advance of the column a
couple of hours, the whole of which time a brisk fire was
kept up from both sides, with, as I have said, a trifling loss.
On they went again as before, dragging, pushing, pulling the
cannon, and gained without further resistance the summit of
the range where the Turkish position was in the middle of
the afternoon.
The men were almost on their last legs, and it seemed as if nothing
but the sight of the enemy could bring them further on. There
was no grumbling or unwillingness, but simple exhaustion,
inability to march and climb any more. The officers took
off their swords and revolvers and left them with the
baggage, then led their troops in the direction of the
enemy's position, telling the men that they went against
the Turks unarmed in perfect confidence that no harm would
come to them in the company of the brave soldiers who had
accomplished so much and suffered so much in the last two
days. The men thus led joined in an encouraging hurrah
and went merrily on. Finding the Turks in an earthwork
on the summit of a truncated peak, they charged upon it and
took the position late in the afternoon. One approach was
through a narrow defile commanded by the Turkish rifles,
and here several men were wounded. Part of the cavalry
skirmished off into the plain near Orkanieh, and suffered
somewhat from artillery fire; but the total losses of the
whole movement were only twenty-nine wounded and two

GENERAL RAUCH'S MARCH. 65
dead. The experience of those two days is worth much more
than it cost, without considering the easy victory gained at
the end of so much toil and difficulty. It has shown General
Gourko that his untiring energy need not be restrained, for
he has just the material in his hands to work out with zeal
and earnestness his own plans. His men die of fatigue, but
they go on ; and the sound of the enemy's fire is- the only
stimulant they require to make them forget their weariness
and their sufferings and become fresh again in an instant.
The Guards, too, have profited by their experiences at Gorny
Dubnik, and now attack the enemy in skirmishing order,
and consequently lose fewer men and accomplish their pur-
pose much more easily. In a previous letter I have described
the way in which they learned these tactics, and, as I had
reason to believe then, they needed no second lesson in this
kind of fighting.
The march of General Rauch's column was so much more
difficult and dangerous than that of the other two that it is
the central chapter of the history. General Dondeville on
the left did most important work in his rapid advance on
Etropol and his descent into the plain of Orkanieh near
Pravca ; for he completed the flanking movement on both
sides of the enemy, and thus made the position untenable.
The Sofia road, where it passes through the gorge of the Pra
vecka, just before it turns around the mountain held by the
Turks and takes the direction of Orkanieh, was so com
manded by redoubts and a battery with two mountain guns,
that an advance for the central column further than the top
of the ridge north of the gorge was quite out of the question.
Nevertheless, positions were taken so near the Turks on the
sharp summits directly opposite them that they were unable
to make any movements in the daytime. The horse artillery
got pieces mounted hundreds of feet above the road without
any paths to drag the guns up, but by sheer lifting and
hauling. The Turks, who on their side had dug a zig-zag
road all the way up the mountain for their troops and cannon,
were surprised, and reasonably, at the Russian energy and
rapidity of movement, and they did not lose any time in
evacuating their positions the moment they understood they
VOL. II. f

66 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
had only one road left open to them. The battle of the 23rd
was comparatively a bloodless one, but the results are just as
important as if the loss were a thousand and a half instead of
a score and a half — this is obvious. To out-manoeuvre an enemy
brings more credit upon a general than to meet an enemy
with great loss by throwing the troops upon him. As weapons
are perfected the importance of the flanking movements
increases. It is already proved that an attack against
entrenched men armed with breechloaders is generally a
mistake. When a soldier could run a hundred yards while
his enemy was loading, it was quite another story. As a
spectaele, the capture of the Turkish position was unequalled.
The smallest movement on either side was visible from the
peak where I took my place early in the day, in company
with some officers, and the little battery where we sat did
not fire often enough to attract much lead from the other side.
The infantrymen lay just behind the crests of the peaks on
either side of us, and below, nearer the enemy, whom we
could see plainly as they rose to fire. The road through the
gorge was hidden by the crags below us, but all the action
took place hundreds of feet higher.
When the day grew old and the clouds began to drift aronnd
below us. and hide the valleys from our view, the majesty
of the landscape surpassed description. The cannon smoke
drifted slowly away in pale, violet-coloured wreaths, and
mingled with the mist that became rosy where the rays of
the sun touched it, and contrasted the cold grey masses in
shadow strongly against the brown mountain sides. Even
the excitement of watching the fight could not make one
forget that all about us were views of wonderful beauty, and
involuntarily one would turn away from the battle to admire
the landscape. Then, as the clouds crept up and poured
over the range where the Turks were, hiding them completely!
from our sight, little by little the firing ceased, until the'
quiet was almost oppressive after the thundering and crashing
of the cannon.
Darkness came on, and the scene was no less picturesque. The
rough mountain-side twinkled with fires, each with its little
knot of soldiers making tea, and relating over and over

THE MOUNTAIN GAINED. 67
again, with animated gestures, the story of Gorny Dubnik.
The stacked rifles glittered with red reflections from the
flames, and the indistinct shapes of horses tied to the scrub-
bushes made mysterious groups in the dim light. The moon
rose, and all was changed like the effect of a transformation
scene in a theatre. The great sea of clouds below us heaved
and swelled, and the huge billows came rolling on, threatening
to sweep over us ; thin and vaporous as they were they had all
the appearance of solidity like snow as the moonlight fell
upon them. Nothing could be heard for two or three hours
but the low conversation of the men and the stamping of
the horses, and then broke into the stillness of the night a
cheery hurrah directly across the gorge, and another and
still another, which was answered by the men along our side,
till the valleys echoed repeatedly with the s^ound. We knew
that Rauch's men had found their way in the darkness and
mist even into the opposite redoubts. But still the strongest
position was in the hands of the enemy, and we heard no
noise in that direction, until at two o'clock there was a
sudden crack, crack of rifles, then yells and curses ; and, as
plainly as if across the street, the sounds came to us of the
Russian soldiers crying, " Let the poor devils go ! " " No, no !
kill them ! bayonet them ! " " Enough, enough ! " and
prayers for mercy of the wounded Turks ; then all was still
again. It passed like a moment in a dream, and we all fell
peacefully asleep, satisfied that the mountain was gained, and
did not awake until the rain pattered on our faces in the
early morning. A few score of volunteers from the Moscovsky
regiment had clambered up the mountain side, which was so
steep that the Turks did not believe it passable, and had
fallen upon the surprised enemy and routed them, bayoneting
a few.
[n the morning all the poetry of the previous evening was
washed out of us by a drizzling, drenching rain, and an
impenetrable mist enveloped us. We determined to make
the attempt to get down to Pravca; and, starting with a
corporal and two men to escort us as far as the further point
| of the ridge, we went on in that direction. The path was a
simple goat trail wide enough for a horse to walk along, but
f 2

68 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
part of the way too narrow to pass any one. Imagine our
surprise at finding away out on the point, almost overhanging
the gorge, a half battery of guns of the horse artillery. The
mist drifted away, so we could look across, and there was the
Turkish redoubt so near that we could almost throw a stone
into it apparently, though it was really about 800 yards
distant. The gunners of the horse battery were bivouacked
behind their guns, which were in a little earthwork masked
by bushes. They had their shelter tents rigged up on the
bushes, and were sitting out in the rain patiently enough,
How they got their guns up there, along a road which we, on
horseback, found difficult enough to pass, I have no idea. The
men seemed to take it as a matter of course that they did it,
and all I could get from them was that they had hauled the
guns up.
From this battery down into the valley it was a difficult descent.
Leading our horses, we clambered down the rocky ravines
for nearly an hour before we came to the plain, now flooded
with warm sunshine, which rapidly dissipated the clouds.
General Gourko and staff came along shortly after we reached
the chaussee, and we accompanied him to the Turkish posi
tions. As we slowly mounted the zig-zag road cut by the
Turks, the wide landscape below us was unfolded more and
more. First, the village of Lazan, and then the town
of Orkanieh, half hidden by streets, came in sight, and a
multitude of tents of the Turkish camps all about. We could
see the chaussee full of carts and people fleeing from the
town toward the mountains behind, and the redoubts in front
were black with Turkish troops. A mile or two behind
Orkanieh the Sofia road turns sharply around the base of a
mountain near the village of Vracesi, and enters the defile
which leads up to the Baba Konak Pass. We could see the
long train of fugitives slowly turn about the mountain and
disappear ; a column of troops was moving along a road
parallel with the chaussee. One of the camps was deserted,
but the tents were still standing, and there were other slight
indications of wavering on the part of the Turks. The
top of the mountain which we ascended is at places but a
few rods wide, and then the ground descends abruptly,

ETROPOL EVACUATED. 69
almost perpendicularly. All over this summit, broken as it
is by a dozen peaks of various shapes and heights, the Turks
had dug little redoubts and rifle-pits, which were strewn with
Peabody cartridges unused, and now and then we came across
a dead man, and here and there a Schnider rifle. On the
western extremity of the range, where Rauch's column
charged, were twenty or thirty dead, among them a fine-
looking blonde individual, wearing a red coat, and supposed
by everybody to be an Englishman. I did not see any one
who had found the papers of the dead man, but about the
¦ deserted camps were various small pieces of English news
paper's. Most of the soldiers already on the summit when
we arrived were as white as millers with the flour they had
found in the Turkish tents, and pancakes were frying on all
sides over the fires which had been lighted by the Turks and
had not yet gone out. The soldiers did not fail to recognize
immediately the superiority of their enemy in their camp
arrangements, for they marvelled at their little platforms for
the tents dug out of the steep mountain side and built up
over the descent with sticks and branches, leaving a floor
perfectly level and comfortable to sleep on.
We rode back to Osikovo that night, a distance of fifteen or
sixteen miles, expecting to go the next day to witness the
movements about Etropol, but about ten o'clock in the evening
came the news that Etropol was evacuated, so there was
nothing to do but to quietly take possession of the place,
and the next morning, the 20th, General Gourko moved
his headquarters there. There is a small collection of houses
on the Sofia road, just north of the Mali Isker, named
on the Austrian map Tornovski Han, but called by the
Bulgarians Orsikovee. This was quite an important position
a few days ago before the Pravca Pass was taken, as
it commands the bridge over the Mali Isker, and is the
point where the road turns off from the chaussee towards
Etropol. This road is a cart track that follows the river
bank up the valley — a rough path, with here and there
paved bits where the freshets have washed away the gravel,
and the peasants have put in pavement to make the way
passable. It is about twenty kilometres from the chaussee

70 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
to Etropol, and the valley of the Mali Isker is everywhere
delightful.
The meadows are still green, although all the leaves on the
mountain trees are dead and brown, and, as we rode along,
the air was as soft as in springtime. Bulgarians were
trooping down, laden with the plunder of the Turkish houses
in Etropol, even to the iron window-bars, and a stream of
infantry and artillery was moving up the valley. Three or
four dead Turks near the road, a few kilometres below
Etropol, with a burial party at work, proved that there had
recently been a skirmish there. Suddenly, and without
warning, while we were enjoying the warm weather, arose a
cold north wind, blowing furiously. The clouds which had
been drifting over the mountains whirled about, gathered,
and settled, and a cold rain fell, which turned soon to snow,
and in a few moments the spring landscape was transformed
to a winter one, and everything was white with snow. All
that afternoon and during the night the storm continued at
intervals, and as I write there are two or three inches of
snow on the ground. The camps are anything but pleasant,
and although there is no great degree of cold, the soldiers are
uncomfortable enough in the wet.
The capture of this place was accomplished without loss, and
by the same kind of movements on a smaller scale that
gained the positions at Pravca. The Turkish earthworks
were constructed on the pointed mountains near the village;
but there were left unoccupied the summits adjacent, which
commanded the whole valley and the lower peaks with the
Turkish redoubts. To get possession of one of the highest
mountains was the work of many hours for the Russians,
who dragged up and planted cannon there by the aid of the
Bulgarians, who brought their cattle along that were used to
mountain work, and could climb where the Russian horses
were helpless.
The first position was gained in a curious way. It was observed
that the Turks did not stay in the earthwork, but in perfect
confidence that no one could climb the hill, left an outpost in
the redoubt, and the main body remained in the camp- back
on the hillside. Some volunteers started to climb the steep

OCCUPATION OF ETROPOL. 71
at four o'clock in the morning of the 23rd, and reached the
summit near the redoubt at half -past seven o'clock, carrying
nothing with them except their rifles and ammunition.
When they came within sight of the Turkish camp they
were perceived by the Turks, who rushed immediately to
occupy the redoubt. The Russians, comprehending at once
the importance of first possession, strained every tired
muscle to reach the coveted entrenchment before the enemy,
and a curious race followed in dead earnest. But the
Russians climbed the parapet and were inside just before
the Turks arrived, and then the affair was settled in short
order. The flanking movement first mentioned having been
made, the Turkish force abandoned the town and the
positions, and withdrew upon the Slatica Balkan to their
fortifications there, leaving behind three Krupp guns.
Etropol is a large village, and stands literally upon the' Mali
Isker, here a rushing mountain stream, for many of the
houses are built over the river. The houses are jumbled
together along narrow, crooked streets, and in the main
thoroughfare there are hundreds of shops side by side, now
with drawn shutters and heavy bolts. The inhabitants were
half of them Turks and half Bulgarians, and there are
half a dozen mosques and two or three Bulgarian churches,
in one of which there is a curious choir screen of elaborately
carved oak with large painted panels, and a correspondingly
florid pulpit chair,, also more curious than beautiful.
The inhabitants welcomed General Gourko with great joy, and
prove themselves daily more and more devoted to the
interests of the Russians. I think I have remarked in a
previous letter the difference between the natives of the
mountains and those of the territory bordering on the
Danube. The people in and about Etropol are exceptionally
intelligent and enterprising for peasants, and have an air of
independence and self-confidence which those of the Danube
entirely lack. They are withal finely built, agreeable, and
even handsome types of men and women. During the
occupation by the Turks nothing was burned or destroyed.
When the army first came here all the wine and the money
which could be found in the possession of the inhabitants

72 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
were seized and confiscated, and in cases of resistance some
natives were killed. The young girls of the town were
hidden in the mountains at the approach of the Turkish
forces, but the soldiers hunted them out, and ten of the most
beautiful were seized and carried away. After a short time
nine came back, but the tenth is still missing. Eight of the
nine, unwilling to bear the dishonour and disgrace inflicted
on them, drowned themselves in the Mali Isker, although the
priests absolved them and declared them purified, and did
their best to console the poor creatures. As I have heard the
story from several different sources, I have no hesitation in
believing it.
With this exception, the inhabitants say they suffered little
from the Turks. There is no difficulty in finding good
quarters among the deserted Turkish houses. I have a large
house with a curious balcony overhanging the street all for
myself and servants. There is a good stable attached, and
the Mali Isker rushes along under the front door. The loft
is stored with maize stalks and millet, but there is not enough
furniture in the establishment to kindle a fire. In the great
open hall of the second story, upon which opens all the
chambers, and which looks out upon a courtyard, there are
several great dried pools of blood on the mud floor. I try to
believe a sheep was killed there, and thank Fortune that I
am under a roof.

THE SITUATION AT SOFIA. 73

CHAPTER III.
THE " ARMY OF RELIEF."
The Turkish Fugitives in Roumelia. — The Filthy Town of So6a. — Mehemet Ali
recalled from Bosnia to assume the Command of' " the Relieving Army."
— Effects of the Russian Strategy. — Circassian Outrages in Orkanieh. —
General Features of the Balkan Campaign. — Shaldonik Height. — Operations
of General Rauch and General Dondeville. — The Turkish Positions. —
Mountain Bivouacs. — The Cossack Stations. — Traces of a Struggle. — ¦
Mountain Scenery. — Transport and Ambulance Difficulties in the Moun
tains. — Lamentable Condition of the Wounded. — Bulgarian Girls. — Life in
Etropol. — Difference between the Bulgarians North and South of the
Balkans. — Summary of General Gourko's Progress. — Con6guration of the
Country. — Engagement between the Turks and Forces under Count Schou-
valoff. — With Mehemet Ali. — The Fight in the Orkanieh Pass. — Kamarli
Pass. — The Bosnians. — Excellence of the Russian Artillery Practice. —
Mehemet Ali deprived of his Command. — Alarm at Sofia. — The Stafford
House Fund and the Red Crescent Society. — Self-Mutilation among the
Turkish Soldiers. — The Turkish Compassionate Fund and Lady Burdett-
Coutts's Agent  Rumours at Kamarli of the Fall of Plevna.
Before proceeding with the narrative of General Gourko's
expedition, furnished by our correspondent accompanying the
Russian army, it will be interesting to glance at the position at
Sofia, and to see how the operations in the Balkans, and the
situation in general, presented themselves to the mind of an
observer at the headquarters of Mehemet Ali Pacha. The
following letter, as will be observed, precedes by a few days the
date of the letters in the previous chapter : —
I Mehemet Ali's Headquarters, Sofia, November 21st. — In
riding along the high road from Philippopolis to this dirty
and disappointing town, I was astonished to find how general
the exodus of the population from all parts threatened by the
Russians had become. I had seen the flight of Moslem, Bui-

74 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
garian, and Jewish families from Kezanlik and the valley of
the tundja during July and August, but this bids fair to
rival it in numbers, and with the terrible addition to the
suffering entailed by the severity of winter, which, in these
mountain-shut districts, is excessively keen. The roads are
literally blocked with long strings of the arabas of the
fugitives, intermingled with the very numerous army trans.
port waggons going to and from the theatre of operations.
. Many a poor wanderer has no other than summer attire,
whilst half-naked children lie ensconced amongst the slender
stock of household stores which with them form the contents of
the lumbering vehicle. Droves of cattle, flocks of sheep and
goats, add to the encumberment of the way. The distress,
everywhere apparent, will add greatly to the embarrassment
of the Ottoman exchequer, already sufficiently tasked to find
the means of paying the inevitable current expenses of this
costly war. Tatar Bazardjik was crowded with such fugitives
who could find shelter within it. Across the mountains and
along the apparently endless plain in which Sofia is situated,
the stream coming against one was still stronger as the alarm
appeared to be extending, every one evidently fearing that
the fall of Plevna, and the consequent outpouring of the
marauding and dreaded Cossacks was of imminent proba
bility.
Scarcely a Bulgarian family was to be met with, however,
amongst them, the danger spreading amongst the Moham
medan inhabitants alone — at all events for the moment.
The streets of this town, in itself perhaps the filthiest in
European Turkey — and rendered still more so by the con
trast caused by a spasmodic attempt at a building mania
which set in three years since, when it was expected to
become a second Wolverton, on Baron Hirsch's partially
formed and now abandoned railway — are so crowded with
fugitives, with soldiers, on and off duty, sick and conva
lescent, Jews and Bulgarians in every variety of costume,
that locomotion is a matter of grave difficulty. All aronnd
in the fields the fugitives are encamped, especially nearest the
outlying villages, where a temporary halt is made with the
object of resting the animals, and giving time for their

MEHEMET ALI PACHA. 75
owners to come to a decision whither to bend their wayworn
steps. What is ultimately to become of them no one can
foresee. Never was a war in which so much misery has been
occasioned, and ruin so widespread and hopeless. Despond
ency may well be traced on every face, for if Russia is
successful, the homes of the fugitives will see them no more.
A fresh phase of the war is presented by the reappearance of
Mehemet Ali on the scene. He has been hurrying up from
Bosnia, where he had scarcely arrived ere he was recalled to
occupy the most important post in the power of the Govern
ment to bestow.
Some of his troops have arrived with him, but the majority
have crossed the Balkans without entering the town, and
some newly-formed Albanian battalions have just opportunely
been sent to the front also. Supreme efforts are being made
to form a sufficient army to contend with any force the
besiegers can bring against it. As yet but little artillery
has arrived, and the arsenal at Constantinople will have to
be liberally drawn upon for the necessary supply, before the
arrival of which it seems doubtful if a pitched battle can
take place, as the superiority of the enemy in that arm is too
well known.
Mehemet Ali has taken up his quarters in a fine house just
built by the chief banker in the place. He has work enough
suddenly imposed upon him, but appears perfectly at his ease,
and capable of the task of organizing the troops he is to
command. The majority of the inhabitants, as is well known,
are Bulgarians, the Greeks and Jews forming a considerable
addition, whilst the Turks are in a minority. The Greeks do
not scruple to state their belief that Plevna cannot hold out
many days ; but I do not find this feeling prevalent in any
other quarter.
Ghazi Osman is not likely to surrender whilst a hope remains
of outside aid; but Mehemet Ali has yet to prove his
capability as a general in circumstances rarely paralleled
in history, called upon suddenly to relieve a besieged army
surrounded by at least double its numbers, both in troops
and artillery, and he himself with merely the nucleus of an
army as yet under his command. Unless he is most energeti-

76 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
cally supported at Constantinople, a total and formidable
change in the aspect of the war will take place before
Christmas. Chevket Pacha left here before Mehemet Ali's
arrival for his new post under Reouf Pacha at Shipka.
He may there have the opportunity of displaying his
prowess in a military command, which is certainly better
suited to him than the task of civil government.

It will be seen by the three letters following how completely
the unexpected vigour of General Gourko's advance had
deranged the plans and dissipated the chances of the army
of relief : —
C Headquarters Mehemet Ali's Army Outside Orkanieh,
November 24>th. — Events are passing rapidly, and ere one can
chronicle a particular fact of importance, another arises before
which the previous fact sinks into comparative insignificance.
The Russians appear to have recovered from their systematic
want of energy when fortune throws opportunity in their
way, and since their great successes at Dubnik and Teliche a
continuous vigorous movement of their large forces is the
result. Their strategy has cleared the Plevna defile of every
Turkish soldier, whilst the detour to Etrepol is a master
stroke, and makes Mehemet Ali's newly-acquired command a
most unenviable one. The repulse at Novatchin, and the loss
of two guns of the Russian Imperial Guard, are the only
gleams of sunshine for the newly-formed army. All the rest
is dark and drear, and the fighting of yesterday leaves the
Turks forced back within shell reach of their own camp at
the mouth of the Kamarli or Orkanieh- Sofia Pass, whilst
their hastily thrown-up entrenchments beyond Orkanieh are
not calculated to keep the elated Russians at bay if a heavy
cannonade is made upon them.
Mehemet Ali must have hoped the Russians would have remained
inactive, and, indeed, from the quiet and orderly manner in
which everything connected with the formation of the new
army has been conducted at Sofia, no one ventured on a
contrary opinion, Troops in considerable numbers have

OUTRAGES BY THE CIRCASSIANS. 77
indeed arrived, and as soon as was practicable have been
despatched up to the front. Still, it never entered into the
mind of Turkish officials that any other object than the relief
of Plevna was by any possibility in view. A formidable
offensive movement by the Russians seemed impossible, as
they had their work to do to besiege Plevna. These dreams
are now dissolved, and the first stroke of alarm appears to
have been sounded by the Circassians last night in the little
town of Orkanieh, plentifully — only too plentifully for Cir
cassians — occupied by poor defenceless Bulgarians. I did not
arrive yesterday until too late to witness the fighting, and
could only find a poor lodging for myself and horses. In the
course of the evening, desiring to see some medical friends, I
ventured into the dark streets, and found their house.
Whilst conversing with them, we were told that the Circassians
and Bashi-Bazouks meant mischief, and were believed to be
on the point of attacking an adjoining house. Off we started
and found a shutter which had been forced open ; a guard of
three men happening by great good luck to be passing, two
Bashi-Bazouks, armed to the teeth, were discovered with
some loot in their hands. This they at once had to abandon,
and were taken off. Hardly was this affair at an end before
piercing shrieks were heard from a number of female voices,
proceeding from another house not far distant. On hastily
repairing to it, and hammering at the door, no answer was
returned, but the screaming ceased. A rush to the back was
suggested and instantly acted upon. Making ourselves known,
a door was opened, and intense was the relief of some twenty
poor women and children at our opportune arrival, for a band
of Circassians were on the point of breaking open the door.
Placing them under the protection of the guard, we returned
to our homes.
At three in the morning we were again alarmed, but this time
by being awakened by a report that a Russian attack was
imminent, and we must saddle up and be off instantly. Before
doing so, however, a message came from one of our friends
to say there was no immediate cause for the alarm, and the
remainder of the night was passed by us in peace. Far
different, however, was it by the unfortunate Bulgarians

78 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
when no regular troops were quartered upon them. In the
hospital next morning two young men and two women, with
a child, were brought in suffering from gunshot wounds
inflicted by these scoundrels of Circassians in their congenial
task of robbing, and far worse, these poor and, for the moment,
unprotected people. Throughout the whole night we were
assured screams could be heard in all directions as their
diabolical work proceeded. A confirmation soon occurred, for
at the back of the house in which I remained a great outcry
was made, and this in broad daylight. This attempt was
frustrated by our medical friends and a soldier who accom
panied us. All this looks like a sure presage of disaster, and
gives the keynote to alarm. It was most unfortunate that a
more numerous guard could not have been spared to counter
act the machinations of these ruffians.
Sunday, November 26th. — During the whole of last night the
Turkish troops were engaged in quietly retiring from their
positions in the new trenches beyond Orkanieh. Those quar
tered in the town were also withdrawn, and the Bulgarians
were left without protection. Rather than remain liable to
be driven out by the army on both sides at any moment, and
also to the more terrible danger of prowling Circassians, they
would do well to sacrifice their homes and go off in a body to
the more sympathizing enemy. Certainly their fate is as hard
and bitter as any in this unparalleled war.
Kamarli Camp, Top of the Pass, Sunday Evening. — I have
ridden up here to hear tidings and send telegrams, and find
material enough and to spare. Etropol, too, abandoned,
and the heights near this camp crowded with the remains
of the six battalions who so gallantly defended themselves
against such a numerically formidable enemy for three long
days, and at last compelled to beat a retreat, although
without the loss of one of their six guns. Another pass,
too, gone. Reinforcements need be arriving or they will be
too late, and this pass, leading from deserted Orkanieh to
much-coveted Sofia, may also be held by the enemy. What is
then to follow? Bad weather is at hand; a heavy snow-

THE COUNTRY ROUND ETROPOL. 79
storm will give a few days of grace, and may prove invaluable
to the Osmanli.
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Etropol, in the Balkans,
December 5th. — Thus far the Balkan campaign has been a
succession of alternating flank movements which, one after
the other, have turned the Turkish positions with little loss
of life, the success depending in every case more on the
muscle and the endurance of the soldiers than on their fisrlit- o
ing qualities. The first pause of any considerable length
' since we left Dolny Dubnik has been made here at Etropol,
and we delay here with good reason, because the operations
against the defences of the Baba Konak Pass are much more
serious and require a great deal more time than any yet
undertaken.
The Turkish position is in full sight of Etropol, but the
topography of the mountains is so complex and the position
so situated that it is difficult to make clear to the reader the
plan of the territory it commands, and by which it is ap
proached, without a drawing in detail. It will, however, be
easily understood that the Turks occupy the highest peak
near the summit of the Pass, to the east of it, a point over
4,000 feet above the sea level, and that as long as they hold
this commanding height they prevent any advance along
the Sofia road, the only way leading across the mountains
which is practicable for wheels. The Turks fortified this
height long ago, and, of course, after the occupation of the
Pravca Pass and Etropol by General Gourko's army, they
concentrated all their troops and artillery near this point.
Their withdrawal from their first positions was so hasty,
and had so much the appearance of a panic, that it could
not have been premeditated. They have been fairly out
manoeuvred, and they have found the Russians a much more
enterprising enemy than they expected to meet. Etropol was
evacuated in the night, and the two tabors which were
stationed here retreated, as I have described in a telegram,
up the west branch of the Mali Isker to the mountain where
they now hold the fortified position. Two or three squadrons
of Hussars were sent in pursuit of the enemy as soon as it

80 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
was discovered that they were retreating, and the flight soon
became a rout, the way being blocked with broken carts,
munitions, and supplies, and when the mountain was reached
the larger part of the train was left behind, with a great
many head of cattle.
The advance guard of the Hussars consisted of only eight men,
who rode up the mountain path with all the spirit and bold
ness of 800, and cheered and blew the bugle, and skirmished
so cleverly with the rear-guard of the Turks, that the latter
believed the woods were full of cavalry. The rocky
mountain sides gave back multiplied echoes of the victorious
cheers, and magnified in the ears of the retreating enemy the
sound of the voices of eight men into the hurrah of as many
squadrons. The eight kept up the game until they found
that they had to handle two tabors, and then one of them
went back for reinforcements, and a squadron and a half was
sent up, including in its number several buglers.
The first move was to scatter the buglers all along the Hne, and
they sounded the calls from a dozen different points at once,
giving all the effect of a very large force, which the friendly echo
magnified again, and the woods seemed swarming with men.
Thus the farce went on for hours, and the Hussars hunted
the Turks fairly into the entrenchments, and then stopped
and held the advance post within a half rifle shot of the
muzzles of the Turkish guns. This was at the point where
General Rauch's position now is, the left flank of the line.
The road by which the retreat was made had been a short
time previously hastily cut through the forest of beech and
birch trees, with no attempt at grading, or even at clearing
it of rocks ; and consequently it was almost impassable at
several points, and at the best only a track of the roughest
kind. The summit where the Turkish earthworks are is
approached from the east and from the north by two distinct
ridges of mountains or great hills, which are separated from
each other and from the adjacent heights by deep ravines,
through which tumble and rush little torrents a couple of
yards wide at the most, but deep down in rocky gorges which
can be crossed at only few points. These two ridges are
composed of a number of peaks piled one upon another in

DIFFICULTIES OF MOUNTAIN WARFARE. 81
an ascending scale, like a gigantic staircase winding up to
the dominating summit. They are covered with a thick
growth of deciduous trees, chiefly birch and beech, often
of great diameter and very tall, completely concealing the
surface of the earth, except where great grey moss-covered
limestone ledges crop out and make huge scars on the brown
mountain flanks. The road above spoken of follows from
Etropol the little stream named on the Austrian map Suhar
River, which it crosses in several places, and is evidently an
old cart track, by which in winter wood has been brought
from the mountains. At the foot of the eastern ridge begins
the path cut by the Turks, and it winds up one steep
declivity after another, and along the connecting shoulders
of the peaks until it reaches the smooth, treeless summit.
On the northern ridge the Russians made use of an old cart
track, and took advantage of favourable openings in the
trees and even ground among the rocks to mark out a path
to the top of this ridge, terminating in the lowest elevation
of the great summit, which, although appearing from below
a continuous rounded surface, is in reality triple, and two of
the knolls, the highest, are occupied by the Turkish earth
works. The placing of the cannon on these ridges near
enough to the enemy to be effective was of course a most
difficult and laborious task. The caissons were from the
first discarded, it having been proved on General Rauch's
late mountain march that cannon can be dragged with com
parative ease where caissons cannot be moved at all.
The Bulgarians were all assembled, to the number of two
hundred, with fifteen or twenty yoke of oxen and buffaloes.
Four pairs of cattle were attached to each limber by a stout
rope, and in front of the cattle a hundred men or more lay
hold of the line, which was provided with breast straps like
the tow-line of a canal boat. With this large team of cattle
and strong force of men the nine-pounders were slowly but
surely dragged up the path, a score of stout fellows at each
wheel, and a dozen flourishing whips and yelling at the
oxen. The Bulgarians had a cannon all to themselves, and
it was amusing enough to notice the pride they took in their
task. They crowded upon the rope as many as could put
VOL. II. G

82 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
their hands to it, pushed the wheels and the limber-box, lifted.
the muzzle of the piece, and braced up on the axletrees.
Those who could find no place to come near the rope, the
cattle, or the cannon, took sticks and pushed in between the
crowd, contented if they could only touch the brass, or rest
their stick on the tire of the wheel. Such a yelling and
singing and shouting as there was ! The little cattle, belly
deep in the mud, floundered along half wild in the midst of
the crazy multitude, that showered upon them blows and
kicks, and pushed and pulled them about. There was very
little unity in the Bulgarian efforts, but they were effective
notwithstanding, and their cannon, which probably seemed
to them like a great plaything, for they had only looked upon
the shining bronze from a distance before, crawled slowly
up, tilting and jolting and twisting along over the boulders,
and through the pools of knee-deep mud and snow to a
Babel of shrieks and shouts. The soldiers, a little jealous
of the " Bratoushka " — this term, which is continually ap
plied by the Bulgarians to the Russians, being an affectionate
diminutive of " brother," is now in general use among the
soldiers to signify " Bulgarian " — did their best to bring up
the cannon in military order, singing and hauling like sailors
at the braces. They were doubtless a little piqued at being
employed in the same task as the natives, whom they
naturally enough consider a step below the wearers of the
uniform. I heard them discussing the propriety of trust
ing the precious pieces in the hands of the Bulgarians,
and criticizing severely the manner in which they were
brought up.
It is a hard climb of three hours from the valley to the position
of General Dondeville on the right flank, and it took from
thirty-six to forty-eight hours to drag the cannon up the
path. It is no wonder that it took so long; it is only
astonishing that they were hauled up at all, for I doubt if
cannon were ever taken over more difficult ground. Once np
there they were placed in the very face of the enemy, at such
short range that the sound of the Turkish guns and the
whizz and bursting of the shell close at hand are almost
simultaneous. From this position the view is very extended,

rauch and dondeville's POSITIONS. 83
taking in the plain of Orkanieh and a great part of the
Baba Konak Pass, the guns carrying down into the redoubts
near Araba Konak, the summit of the Pass. It is not an
agreeable place to study the landscape, for the Turks shoot
very well with their Krupp guns, and a single horseman or
a group of three or four people on foot, is sure to attract a
shell, but it is the only point whence a good idea of the
positions on both sides can be gained. The large Turkish
redoubt, part of which was taken and lost on the 29th of
November, stands just at the " a " of the word " Grevta "
on the Austrian map — the name of this height is, by the
way, Shaldonik. From here there is a line of five redoubts
extending in a south-westerly direction to the chaussee, the
last one a finely-constructed square earthwork with a raised
central battery, standing just north of Araba Konak, be
tween the point marked on the map as the village or station
Araba Konak and the word " Dermente." General Rauch's
position may be found on the map about a quarter of an
inch north-east of the " a " in " Grevta," and from here the
line runs along parallel with this word. General Donde
ville's position to as far as the " e " then extends down the
irregular ridge to the chaussee, which it crosses just north of
and parallel with the word " Dermente," and meets the ex
treme right, Count Schouvaloff 's position, near the words
"Baba Konak." The summit of the' pass is about 1,500 feet
lower than the great Turkish redoubt, and beside the square
earthwork there the Turks are building another opposite, on
the other side of the road, and the work goes on in spite of
the Russian shrapnel. I have referred to the positions on
the Austrian map, for that gives the best idea of the situa
tion. As this map was not made by actual survey, but the
mountains were only sketched in from a few fixed points
which were taken by actual measurement, the conformation
of the mountains is quite incorrect.
The Turkish position is on the watershed of the range, but, as
I have traced it on the map, this watershed should be further
south, or the hills south of it lower and nearer. There are
other mistakes in the courses of the rivers which are too
complicated to explain. One may ride along from the right
G 2

84 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
to the left flank. It is only a few kilometres, but the route
is commanded the whole way by the rifles of the Turkish
pickets, and having once passed over the road, I never care
to repeat the trip. The outposts and skirmish line on the
left are so near the Turks that it seems marvellous that so few
men are hit ; the cannon there on the second plateau, and
those on the lower knoll of the summit, the natural bastion
of the Turkish position, and one which they made a grave
mistake in yielding, are only 650 yards from the smoke-
blackened embrasures of the great redoubt, and volleys of
shrapnel are thrown into it with perfect precision; while
the Turks, on their side, reply with a spiteful irregularity,
sometimes dropping a shell into the soldiers' soup,' sometimes
cutting down enough fuel to cook dinner with, in unpleasant
proximity to the path.
It is interesting to enter these mountain bivouacs, miles away
from a village and from supplies, far up among the clouds,
which at this season drift along between the peaks, fre
quently veiling 'the whole landscape, and drawing a dense
curtain of mist between the hostile lines. It is a little
world in itself, a camp among the trees here. Fires are
blazing on every side ; the soldiers have rigged up their
shelter tents between the smooth, straight, beech trunks, and
have their garments all hung about to dry ; there is a con
tinuous musical ring of axes and sabres cutting fuel, only
interrupted by the infernal whizz and angry crack of
Turkish shells ; rifles are stacked in long irregular lines, or
are clustered about the large trees ; and crowds of soldiers
are gathered about the kitchens or busied with the details
of their simple toilettes. Some of the bivouacs are con
tinually exposed to rifle-fire ; not that they are in sight of
the Turkish lines, but the bullets that go over the crest of
the hill and graze the earthworks eome dropping into the
bivouac in the rear, chipping the trees and wounding men
and horses. They are not spent bullets either, for they will
go through a three-inch sapling, and then stick in a tree
beyond. The soldiers in their bivouacs dig great holes in the
ground, pitch their tents over them, and then pile the earth
and sods up on the side towards the enemy, so they have a

THE COSSACK STATIONS 85
very good shelter at all times.. Fires are also built in little
earthworks, for no one likes to have a live bullet in his
kitchen, and whenever there is a fusillade nearly every man
is in cover. The shells and shrapnel come in, but the men
take the risk of these projectiles, and attempt no defence
against them. A thin cloud of blue smoke from the fires
rises out of the tree tops, drifting away to leeward, and
marking exactly where the bivouac is placed, both to the
eyes of friends away back in the town, and to the sharp sight
of the- enemy near at hand. Thus one may see how closely
together lie the two armies on the mountain tops.
From below, in the valley, all day long, and even through the
night, toils up the rough path a procession of soldiers and
Bulgarians, bearing powder and shells, and a long train of
pack-horses, laden with provisions and fodder. The. Cossack
stations on the way are comfortable little camps, where hay,
although brought on horseback for miles, is stacked'in abun
dance,, and the cooking seems to be continually going on.
Here the soldier, panting from the exertion of the steep
ascent, pauses to take breath and to have a chat near the
fire. When the snow covered the ground the picturesque-
ness of the mountain bivouacs was without parallel.. The
tree trunks came out sharply with their deep grey colour
against the pure white, and every figure was in distinct
silhouette. Now, the grey overcoats of the soldiers har
monize exactly with the colours of the carpet of dead leaves,
and it is difficult to distinguish the men from the ground
they lie on. In the snow, too, was written more plainly than
with words, the history of the movements of each man in
the skirmish line. One could follow every step of the
advance of -the Russians as they drove the Turks from tree
to tree upon the open summit, and mark just where each
soldier sought shelter — the means he took to get nearer the
enemy ; and one could even judge accurately the state of the
soldier's mind as he dodged from tree to tree, whether he
was reckless or cautious, enterprising or timid. The tracks
of the Russian boots followed up the prints of the Turkish
moccassins, just as one finds in the freshly-fallen snow in the
country the track of a cat following the trail of a bird as

86 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
it goes from bush to bush in the garden, and then a few
feathers and a drop or two of blood, which marks dis
tinctly where the prey was taken. Pink stains on the white
ground among the trees on the mountain were only too elo
quent, and here and there a pool of blood, that had flowed
warm and melted the snow in a dark red spot, showed where
men had been hit hard, and the impression of the bodies
where they fell, the tracks of the comrades who came to
carry them away — all was there, unmistakably, even too
plainly legible. The Turkish dead, stripped by their friends
for the ragged woollen clothes they wore, lay nearly naked
on the spot where they had fallen, their bare legs and arms
half buried in the snow, the ghastly spectacle all the more
impressive in the cruel cold, and the desolate landscape.
Nothing in all the previous battles of the war which I have
yet seen moved me half as much as the sights of a short
hour on the mountain the afternoon of the attack, capture,
and final surrender again of the redoubt on the summit.
Although I arrived only just before the close of the affair,
the whole history of the series of sharp skirmish fights that
led up to it, and the complete sequel of the encounter, was
put before me by the silent testimony of the snow, more
vividly and more impressively than if I had been with the
men who did the work, for there was nothing to distract the
attention from the awful aspect of the scene, and without
the excitement of the fight I could contemplate at leisure
the illustrated history of it, printed with photographic
accuracy on the fresh snow. The knowledge that almost
within reach lay wounded men on the bleak knoll, sure to he
massacred when the rapidly- approaching darkness fell full
upon the mountain, became a torture, as the icy wind drove
the storm clouds across the peaks, and began to whirl the
light snow, and the strong and unharmed began to suffer
from the cold in the cheerless bivouac. I afterwards learned
that every man who fell in the retreat down the mountain
was murdered by the enemy during the long night that
followed, so that our misgivings as to their fate were not
without full foundation. The majestic solemnity of the
mountain scenery; the awful mystery of the wild forest;

TRANSPORT OF THE WOUNDED. 87
the cold, the snow, and the driving mist ; the freshly
wounded and the dead in the snow close by ; the living who
were telling the story of the fight with their rifles still hot
in their hands — these were surroundings to make one realize
the full extent of the horrors of the war in the mountains,
and I never care to repeat the experience of that night in
the bivouac.
Of course, it was impossible to bring the ambulances anywhere
near the scene of action, so every wounded man who could
not drag himself down had to be lifted on a stretcher from
rock to rock for four long miles to the first hospita lstation.
From here the next day the wounded were carried in the
springless country carts still further to the rear. The diffi
culties of transport are so great that probably a large pro
portion of the wounded men die before they reach the
hospital camps in Roumania. It is a journey of nearly two
weeks from here to Simnitza, and the cold and wet, the
jolting of the waggon, and the constrained position would
try the endurance of a man who was whole and well. To be
wounded near the enemy is sure death, and any severely
hurt soldier who escapes this fate is fortunate if he survives
the sufferings of the journey to the hospitals. The doctors
say that the wounded have more to fear from the transport
than from their wounds ; and although every effort is made
to keep them strong and healthy by providing thejn with
plenty of food, a delay on the road will often cause a great
deal of suffering from want of supplies. There has lately
arrived to this army a train of new ambulance transports,
neatly covered and drawn by fresh, well-fed horses. The
carts are without springs, but are much more spacious than
any I have seen before ; they are provided also with some
thing like a swinging bed, so they can carry two men below
and two above. One great need in the transport of the
wounded is an escort of nurses of sufficient number to care
properly for the helpless men. I have never yet seen a train
of wounded so provided, and although I have no accurate
information as to the proportion of surgeons to soldiers in
the Russian army, I doubt very much if it be more than one
to forty or fifty. The experience of other nations has shown

88 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
that double this proportion is none too great for all the exi.
gencies of active warfare, and it is evident that in a war like
the present one there is great need of an uncommonly large
corps of surgeons.
I have left my story of the bivouac on the mountain to speak
of the wounded and their fate, for at the time I could not
but reflect on the future sufferings of those who were already
tortured by painful wounds, as they dragged themselves
down through the snow that evening toward the distant
ambulance. Some were assisted on the road by their com
rades, some bravely struggled along alone, and some lay
motionless on the stretchers, and were lifted down with
great toil. Wet and cold, exhausted and wounded as they
were, I did not hear a complaint or a groan, although their >
faces often bore witness to intense pain and increasing weak
ness. They had patiently marched along the rough and
muddy valley road during the night, they had patiently
clambered up the steep mountain side, and, weary and hungry,
they had assaulted and taken a redoubt, and now with the
same heroic patience they bore the pain and the terrible
weakness without a word. Volumes could not do justice to
their devotion and their heroism. That night the clouds
gathered, and plentiful rain fell, melting the snow, and con
verting every path into a torrent of muddy water. By day
light the story written in the snow was washed away, and
nothing remained but the Turkish dead now lying on a bed
of wet leaves, and a few blood-stained rags strewn along the
path.
When I came down from the mountain in early morning the
last wounded man had been cared for, and as I rode back to
Etropol I met the carts coming to carry the wounded away.
At Etropol one has little idea of what is passing in the
mountains. All day and night we hear the echoes of the
cannonade sounding in the ravines, and now and then the
dull roll of a fusillade of brief duration comes down through
the still air, audible above the rattle of the carts on the
pavement, or the clatter of horses' feet on the bridges. We
are within rifle-shot almost of the positions, and are to all
intents as far from the battle as at Bucharest. No wounded

LIFE IN ETROPOL. 89
men are seen in the streets ; there is no hurrying of troops,
or rapid movements of artillery. Once in a while a Cossack
came clattering in with a despatch, or a general passes with
a small suite ; but the occupations here are leisurely and
peaceful. The Bulgarians gather in crowds at the corners
of the narrow streets, and keep up an animated dis
cussion ; the girls — and very pretty ones too — dressed in
their simple costume of a scanty robe with long sleeves and
open neck, bound to the waist by a broad belt of square
links of chased silver, their arms loaded with heavy silver
bracelets, their necks hidden by chains of yellow, red, and
green glass beads, and their heads enveloped in a dark-
coloured handkerchief that falls down the back, every even
ing promenade down to the fountain with their water jugs,
so coquettishly dressed for the occasion, and with such a
conscious air, that one sees at once that they are parading a
little before the handsome hussars in red-jackets all covered
with cord and braid. The Turks carried away with them
all the richest citizens and the priests, so we have not the
society of the most influential people of the town. Of the
12,000 inhabitants there are probably not over 2,000 here
now, and these are mostly the poor people who either were
unable to flee or were hidden at the time of the evacuation.
Not one of the Turkish citizens remained, and, judging from
the great number of deserted dwellings and empty shops
they must have been in the majority, and the most active
part of the population. One or two Bulgarian shops have
opened and are doing a lively business in " dry goods " and
tobacco, but it is impossible to obtain at any price sugar, tea,
coffee, chocolate, candles, paper, or, indeed, any of the like
luxuries of life. The sugar famine is sometimes very severe
and of long duration. There are no sutlers here, the one
enterprising Jew who found his way thus far having sold out
at quadruple prices every ounce of his load, even to the last
sheet of wrapping paper. There is plenty of butter, milk,
fresh meat, and black bread, and a great supply of forage in
the valley.
I have frequently alluded to the difference between the Bulga
rian of the Balkans and the Bulgarian of the territory near

90 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the Danube. In Etropol they have done notable service on
various occasions, and the young men of the town have formed
a small volunteer company, which goes out into the moun-
tains and lends a hand when needed. The volunteers are
armed with two or three kinds of Turkish rifles besides the
two Russian rifles, and some of them wear Russian overcoats
and boots ; but the larger part are dressed in full Bulgarian
costume, with broad red sash stuck full of knives and pistols,
with sheepskin caps and raw hide mocassins. One smart
young fellow I noticed had wound among the handles of his
brass-mounted pistols and long yataghan in his red sash, a
richly embroidered cloth, which, with his arsenal of weapons,
gave him quite the air of a theatre brigand. If the volun
teers are brave in proportion to their warlike appearance
they will do something worth recording.
+ Orkanieh, Dec. 9th. — General Gourko's campaign up to this
date has been a series of very interesting and cleverly exe
cuted movements, which have enabled him to advance with-
out serious check southward to Baba Konak, within a day's
ride of Sofia, and even to throw part of his force across the
Balkans into the valley near Slatica. The loss has been only
about 500 all counted, and thus far it may be called a
muscular campaign, for in almost every case success has been
won by flank movements, which depended entirely on the
endurance of the soldiers.
General Gourko has handled his forces with as much precision
as if they were manoeuvring on the parade ground instead of
in a wild mountainous region, where there are no roads, and
where every kilometre counts more than five on the plain, for
each step in advance among the mountains is gained only hy
hard climbing and great fatigue. ,
I have already described the march of General Rauch's column
to outflank the enemy at the Pravca Pass. This history of
wonderful pluck and endurance is repeated on a less impor
tant scale almost every day. Heights are climbed, ravines
are crossed, and dense forests penetrated by the troops with
artillery, that seemed to the Turks, and with reason, to he
the impregnable natural bulwarks of their chosen positions.

DEFECTS OF THE TURKISH SYSTEM. 91
They left these points unguarded because apparently inac
cessible, and the Russians have found there just the footholds
needed to grapple with the enemy or to threaten him out of
his strongholds.
It is not strange that an army with so little mobility as the
Turkish should find itself puzzled to deal with an energetic,
active, hostile force, even where it fights on its own ground, and
leisurely chooses its definitive positions. The odds are very
much against the side which has insufficient and cumbersome
transport, and the Turks have experienced the evil of their
transport system in every retreat they have made before
General Gourko's advance ; for they have left a large part of
it in the hands of the Russians. It was, of course, expected
that the great resistance would be met at Baba Konak, for
the Sofia road is the only highway crossing the mountains
between the Ganci Pass and Shipka which is practicable for
wheels in winter months. To cross the Balkans was not a
very difficult matter. Nearly ten days ago the regiment which
drove the Turks from their earthworks on the summit of the
Slatica Pass debouched into the valley and occupied the village
of Klisekoi, so near the road leading to Kezanlik as to be
able to cut off the reinforcements sent from the Shipka army
towards Sofia. Other passes not marked on the map are also
open or easily forced, but none of these roads permit the
passage of artillery and transport, and Baba Konak always
remains the key to the country beyond, to Sofia on the west,
and Slatica and Shipka on the east.
After the occupation of Pravca the Turks remained in force
for two days at Orkanieh and at VraCesi, a village at the
entrance of the Pass, which they had fortified with a large
and complete line of earthworks extending into the plain in
front as far as Orkanieh. When . Etropol fell into General
Gourko's hands these defences of the entrance to the Pass
became immediately untenable, for Etropol lies within half a
dozen miles from the road behind Vracesi, and the Russians
threatened to intercept the retreat from the latter place.
Hence the Turks withdrew precipitately to the summit of
the Pass into their forts there. Thus, without anything more
serious than skirmishes, General Gourko drove his enemy

92 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
into their final positions and proceeded to establish himself at
once, parallel to his line of offence along the adjacent moun
tain tops. The commanding point of the Turkish position is
the highest peak of the watershed, about three miles east of
the summit of the Pass, the largest redoubt occupying a point
marked on the Austrian map as Griota. The line runs from
here south-west to the highest point of the Pass, just above
the baiting station called Araba Konak, and is held by four
earthworks. Between the road and the great redoubt and
the two earthworks west of the Pass, two ridges lead up to the
Turkish position from the north, and General Rauch estab
lished himself on the ridge to the east, while General Donde-
ville immediately occupied the other. Both joined their
summits to the shoulders of the dominant peak,, and even
one part of this peak, the smaller of the three elevations
which compose it, and which was debatable ground at the
time of the attack on the earthwork described in my last
telegram, has been seized by the Russians, and cannon planted
there within half range of the great redoubt. General Don-
deville occupies the line of heights parallel with the enemy's
line, as far west as the precipitous descent, three kilometres
from the summit of the Pass. Then the line turns north-west
to the road, which it crosses to join that held by Count
Schouvaloff on the opposite ridge. Several batteries of nine-
pounders have been placed in position along the Russian
line, and cannonade the enemy's works almost continuously.
General Rauch, whose guns are within 650 yards of the great
redoubt, throws shrapnel alone.
The difficulties of bringing heavy pieces up the rough mountain
paths, at the best scarcely practicable' for horsemen, were
overcome only by great energy and the severest toil. It is
impossible to render full justice to the condition of these
paths, gullied by torrents of mud and water,, paved with loose
boulders and slippery ledges, and mounting in zig-zags often
at an angle of 45 degrees. Four yoke of cattle, and from
150 to 200 men to the gun, were occupied two days and nights
in making the ascent. The caissons have to be left in the
valley, and the ammunition is brought up by hand, 200 or
300 Bulgarians being employed in this work. The prevalence

schouvaloff's battery. 93
of clouds, which frequently cover the mountains with a chill,
impenetrable mist, makes bivouacs behind the lines anything
but comfortable. Nevertheless, drenching vapour is prefer
able to the bullets and shells which fall into the camps when
ever the air is clear enough to permit the enemy to see the
low mines of entrenchments within half range of their rifles.
The Turks appear to have but fifteen guns in position — less than
half the number mounted by the Russians, and of much
smaller calibre. They work their guns remarkably well.
Except the attack on the great redoubt, described in my last
despatch, there has been but one engagement between the
infantry, and that was fought on the 3rd instant, at Count
Schouvaloff 's position, west of the road. The Russian line
here is so situated that it commands Araba Konak, but at the
same time does not occupy the highest point of the ridge.
The Turks began demonstrations on the day mentioned from
- two camps near the Araba Konak earthworks, about eleven
o'clock in the forenoon, having meanwhile sent a strong
detachment around behind the mountain that dominates the
Russian right. This detachment shortly after appeared on
the crest of the mountain, and charged in solid lines against
the Russian sharpshooters, who were, by some strange neg
ligence, not intrenched. Count Schouvaloff had six guns
planted on the highest point of his position, and the Turks
came so near that he sent volleys of shrapnel into the solid
masses with the greatest effect, causing them to break and
scatter, but still they advanced with the cry of " Allah ! "
" Allah ! " which was repeated by those in the camps all along
the line, evidently to encourage the attack and to give the
impression of great numbers. On they came within pistol-
shot of the Russians, facing the staggering volleys from the
Berdans and showers of shrapnel. Now they were so near
the guns that those who were watching the fight from
General Dondeville's batteries believed the pieces were taken ;
but the charging lines were seen to melt away and stream
backward down the slope, and the first fierce attack was
repulsed.
Again and again they assaulted with the same desperation. The
cannon were worked so quickly that five out of the six

94 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
became heated and unserviceable, and there was no water for
the sponges. The anxious spectators on the opposite crests,
unable to render assistance, believed the day was lost, when
the hot cannonade tumbled down to sullen reports from a
single gun, and the lines threw themselves against the very
bayonets of the defenders of the ridge, with the cry of
" Allah ! " " Allah ! " and the impetuous rush ; but every
time they came up they soon broke and retreated, falling by
hundreds, while they were running back down the slope, and
leaving at the close of the day when they repeated the attempt
to break the Russian lines, the mountain literally black with
dead and wounded.
The Turks had a force variously estimated at from ten to twenty
tabors. Prisoners report that one thousand three hundred
men were hors de combat, including one Pacha and two
colonels. Count Schouvaloff held his line with two battalions
of the Moskovisky Regiment, and a small detachment of the
tirailleurs of her Majesty the Empress. The Russian loss
was about three hundred.
The attack was renewed again in the morning, but reinforce*
ments had come up to the Russians, and the assault was not
kept up long. Since that time both lines have entrenched,
and are not over five hundred paces apart, conversation and
the noise of men working being distinctly audible across the
interval.
The situation here is at the date of writing as I have described.
All forward movements have stopped, and it is impossible to
predict when the next advance will be made. The Turks still
occupy Lutakova, a town at the base of the mountains west
of Orkanieh, and it is known that they are in force in the
mountains there. I believe the cause of the check in the
advance may be traced, not so much to the fact that the
Turks have very good positions, and defend them with energy
and skill, but to the probable hesitation on the part of the
generals to use the Guard as they would like. The great
redoubt was once occupied, and could have been held if the
attack had been supported ; and I do not think I am mistaken
in declaring that, with a loss of one thousand to one thousand
five hundred men, the Turkish position could have been

SUFFERINGS OF THE TURKS. 95
carried by assault at any well-chosen hour during the past
week. From the caution and deliberation which mark every
movement, it is presumable that General Gourko has not
complete freedom of action, but is entrusted with the chosen
troops on the condition that he confines the losses to the
lowest possible percentage.
If there be anything to criticize in the campaign so successfully
begun, and so interesting in manoeuvres, it is the delays,
which result, I am sure, from unwillingness to sacrifice men,
even when a great loss of life at present would be a saving in
the future.
From all that can be learned from prisoners and deserters, the
condition of the Turkish troops is terrible. The stories of
the sufferings from cold all agree, and the appearance of the
men who come through the lines corroborates these statements
in every respect. There have been yet no indications of a
great force being opposed to General Gourko. It is probably
not over thirty tabors, part of which have come from Shipka.
As the weather grows colder, the desertions from the Turkish
force rapidly increase, and those who come into the Russian
lines form probably but a small proportion of those who leave
the ranks.
In regard to the state of affairs at Sofia, it is reported that the
inhabitants are leaving the city, fearing the approach of the
Russians. It is well known that the great mass of the Turkish
sick and wounded are assembled there, and that typhus is
raging. The weather in the Balkans has been for some days
rainy, with the thermometer almost down to freezing point ;
and at this date there are no signs of the clearing of the storm,
which is not violent, but intermittent. The earth in this region
is not so soft and rich as that in the vicinity of Plevna,
and the rain does not so quickly make the roads impassable.
The road is in good condition. Orkanieh was the market-
town of this region. There was the Kaimakan, and this was
the centre of trade and local government. It counted, per
haps, fifteen thousand inhabitants, and has a great many large
and commodious public buildings. Between the Turks and
the Russians it has fared badly, a large number of houses
having been burned by both parties. The great bazaar is now

96 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
deserted, and empty shops with broken windows and shattered
doors show where a short time ago business was conducted.
There are many Bulgarian inhabitants now in the town, and
refugees are returning every day. Provisions of all sorts are
in abundance, and at Vracesi, close by, there are large stores
of captured Turkish clothing and rations, enough to feed and
clothe thousands of the natives through the winter months.
In the following letter we return to the Army of Relief, and
learn how the campaign was. regarded from the Turkish side : —
d Headquarters of Mehemet Ali, Kamarli, December 3rd
(Morning). — The Russians have shown such unwonted
energy in attack during the critical period, for the Turks,
consequent upon their Army of Relief being in an inchoate
state, that more than once Mehemet Ali's position has been
in extreme jeopardy. It is not too much to say that if the
attempt to carry the highest redoubt on the 29th ult. had
been made with another battalion, it might have been
successful, having regard to the Turkish inferiority of force.
The result would have been the retreat of the newly-formed
army, with consequences of transcendent importance to the
Empire. The attack was well planned, and as bravely carried
out as repulsed. With the advantage of their important
newly-acquired positions of Etropol, so inconsiderately
abandoned by Mustapha Pacha, the Russians, marching
from there on the morning of the 28th, appeared on the
crest of a chain of mountains running almost parallel with
the Turkish redoubts, six in number, which crowned the
summits of a high range of the Balkans. These redonhts
are at right angles with the main road leading to Orkanieh,
one of them, the most westerly, being across the road, the
remaining five being thrown up on each ascending peak, the
last towering over all, as well as the above-mentioned ridge,
at an elevation of upwards of five thousand feet above the
sea.
Descending the slopes of the ridge, the Russians encountered
no resistance until they reached a ravine clothed with wood,
the wintry aspect of which afforded scant cover to either

CHAKIR PACHA'S TACTICS. 97
side. Here the Turks opened fire, but were soon driven out
by the superior attacking force. The day being now far
advanced, the enemy bivouacked in the wood, the snow
covering the ground and rendering the night a hard one for
the unfortunate soldiery. At the same time that this advance
was made, Chakir Pacha's position at the Orkanieh end of
the pass was attacked, and finding his line of retreat in
jeopardy, Mehemet Ali ordered him to fall back up the road
to effect a junction at the camp. This was successfully
carried out during the whole night, and it forms one of the
most curious episodes of the war. How the Russian General
could have overlooked the probability of this retirement is a
mystery. The noise of the creaking and groaning bullock-
waggons must have distinctly reached his ear, and yet not
even a company was sent down the ravine which the road
through the pass crosses, to cause confusion in the endless
stream of vehicles and crowds of laden animals intermixed
with the long array of horse artillery. One stoppage of the
narrow way, and the alarm which could so easily have been
occasioned would have gone far towards giving the Russians
the victory on the ensuing morning. With wonderful good
luck, however, Chakir Pacha managed to bring every man
and gun and all his stores safely to headquarters.
On the morning of the 29th, a drifting mist hung over the
mountains, rendering it no easy matter for the Russians to
find their way to the point to be attacked, viz., the highest
of the redoubts. With the aid of a couple of guns which
were drawn up to the ridge the preceding day, and the fire
of which gave them a clue to the required direction, the
ascent was commenced over the frozen snow. Now and then
the clouds lifted, to the advantage of both sides. All this
time the Turkish artillery was playing on the assailants as
they came out from the cover given by the undulating
character of the ground. The battery in the grand redoubt
was busily engaged in firing upon the two Russian guns
which were placed much below them, but which, from faulty
aim, they could never succeed in silencing. The enemy
continued to advance, notwithstanding the heavy fire to
which they were exposed, until within a couple of hundred
VOL. II. H

98 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
yards of the redoubt, when a determined rush was made,
and several gained a footing at its base. One brave fellow
climbed up the steep earthwork, and leaping on to the
parapet was shot down at the moment of doing so. A
tremendous fire met the assailants, whose weakened ranks
were unsupported, and just as everything depended upon
their having ample reserves to bring up, the Turks made a
rush out of the redoubt, and drove the foremost back at the
point of the bayonet. The descending tide carried dismay
into the remainder of the advancing column, the retreat had
to be sounded, and the day was lost. Six Russian battalions
were engaged in the attack.
Great was the relief of Mehemet Ali at the result of the day's
fighting. Strong reinforcements had just arrived at the very
. moment when fortune looked its blackest for him. He openly
declared, that had the battle been lost he could not have
answered for the consequences. Even as it is, his position is
far from secure. His left flank is somewhat exposed,, and
yesterday a strong reconnaissance was made by the enemy.
Although easily driven back by a mass of troops which,
through the isolated nature of the attack, could be brought
against them, still it became more apparent that the position
might stand a fair chance of being turned. This (Monday)
morning, as I write, an attack has been commenced on the
above point, and is increasing every moment. I must leave
off to witness it. Six fresh battalions are to be seen march
ing up from Sofia. Seldom have troops been more welcome
to a General.
« Kamarli Pass, December 5th.— The Turks have succeeded in
again repelling a well-directed Russian attack, but with
losses which will doubtlessly officially be stated as com
paratively insignificant, but which in reality exceeded four
hundred. The most annoying part to a General of such
real talent as Mehemet Ali, is that at least two-thirds of
this loss could have been prevented by his engineers obeying
his commands, which were that entrenchments were to have
been made in advance of his western redoubt, the only one
he has at present across the Orkanieh road, on the left of

fighting at kamarli. 99
his main position. Through the negligence of the officer
whose duty it was to have taken the matter in hand, nothing
was done, and, as a matter of course, on Sunday night
General Gourko quietly sent up four guns within a few
hundred yards of this redoubt, and whilst every one in
camp was tranquilly taking his last quarter of an hour's
sleep we were rudely awakened by most unwelcome missiles.
By some wonderful good luck, however, two battalions fresh
from Bosnia, which I had seen arrive the previous night,
happened to be sent to the left to take up their temporary
quarters, pending the decision as to where they would be of
most service.
Little enough rest did these really excellent soldiers obtain, for
as Monday's dawn appeared they received their Kamarli bap
tism of fire, and were called upon to face the advancing enemy.
Shell after shell fell among them, but utterly disregarding
this, they flew to the attack with their customary fierceness,
and a desperate fight ensued in the wooded ground before
them. The Turkish batteries nearest the wood operated with
effect, but unfortunately they were only supported by a couple
of battalions of Mustaphas, which did not share the enthu
siasm of the Bosnians, and thereby rendered the position of
affairs by no means what might have been anticipated.
Mehemet Ali was in the next battery across the road, having
hurriedly left his tent to see what the alarm was about, and
personally directed the whole affair. He himself was shelled
by the Russian batteries on the ridge before him, but never
flinched, and remained during the greater part of the day
quietly watching the movements of his troops, and giving
directions which ultimately secured what may be called a
victory, but a dear one. The brunt of the fight was certainly
on the Bosnians, and, almost unsupported, they bore them
selves admirably.
The practice of the Turkish artillery here is decidedly inferior
to what I witnessed at Shipka, and that of the Russians is
terribly accurate. In the two batteries on the Turkish left
at least twenty men were killed outright, besides which a
considerable number were wounded, and one gun was com
pletely disabled. The scene in the batteries which I visited
h 2

100 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
immediately the fire slackened was sickening. The killed
were horribly disfigured, several being blackened with the
fire of the shells. The batteries, too, had been much knocked
about. The parapets were unfortunately too low, and but
little shelter was afforded to the unfortunate defenders.
To return, however, to the scene of fighting in the wood.
Backwards and forwards the line of rifle-fire swayed, as each
attacking or repelling party gained the upper hand, and
incessant were the discharges rattling along the irregular
line. The fight lasted until late in the afternoon, when
the Russians, evidently fearing that with the approaching
twilight their guns might be in jeopardy, withdrew them,
but still retained firm hold of some of the ground they had
succeeded in gaining. The Bosnians kept up a continuous
fire with their advanced posts, and so the day closed. These
troops keep up the savage custom of decapitating their
enemies. This was done on the present occasion, much to
the disgust of Mehemet Ali, who immediately on hearing of it
gave orders for its discontinuance under the heaviest penalty.
It is to be hoped that such ghastly practices will be dis
continued in future.
The Russians succeeded in rendering the headquarters' camp
untenable by the General and his staff, shells dropping about
in all directions during the day, and through the doubtfnl
wisdom of the officer in charge of the redoubt before it in
drawing the enemy's fire, the position of every one whose
duty compelled him to remain was one of unnecessary danger.
Instead of ceasing a useless fire, he was constantly irritating
the Russians into a six-fold activity, and it was not until two
the following morning that anybody could rest in peace.
Mehemet Ali was urgently requested to pitch his tent in a
less dangerous spot, and, to the relief of 'all, he complied.
His unfortunate telegraphists had a most unpleasant duty of
it, and at the first opportune moment disappeared down the
hill, instruments and all, and sought and obtained relief from
further anxiety in a safe retreat.
As the clouds lift, an artillery duel is kept up, slight loss,
however, being inflicted on the Turkish side, and, from all
that appears, on the Russian also. Reinforcements are

REMOVAL OF MEHEMET ALI. 101-
rapidly arriving, and the golden opportunity which the Russians
have had seems likely to be lost by their supineness.
Mehemet's policy of caution appears not to have been
approved of at Constantinople ; probably because it was seen
to be accompanied by the successive occupation by General
Gourko's forces of strategical points of the utmost importance,
while something like a panic was already observable among
the Mussulman inhabitants of Sofia. He was accordingly
deprived of his trust, and the Army of the Balkans placed
under the command of Chakir Pacha. The following letter
from the Turkish side refers to this incident : —
([ Kamarli Pass, December 10th. — Another change in the
chief command of one of the Sultan's armies in the field,
and this with the same General and under parallel circum
stances as on the last occasion, when he was in possession of
the highest post. Mehemet Ali's deposition is most inoppor
tune. He had just been rewarded for his intense and cease
less labours in giving a real organization to the newly-formed
army, when another officer is appointed to take his place, and
for no other reason than the exercise by him of that caution
which, in any other country, would merit praise from those
capable of appreciating it. One must be well acquainted
with Turkey before it is possible to understand how such a
change can be made by the chief military authorities of the
capital. Every general has his party, and the real battles of
the war appear to be decided in the Seraskierate as the
partisans of each gain the upper hand in the councils of the
Sultan. Favouritism takes the place of merit from the
appointment of a Mushir down to the nomination of a cadet.
The removal of a general at the moment when every nerve
should be strained to save the country is a crime, and its
authors deserve punishment. Its effects will soon be felt if
Plevna falls, as fall it must, unless something immediately
can be done to draw away a large portion of the Russian
hosts eagerly watching for the hoisting of the white flag by
the sorely-beleaguered Ghazi. His losses daily from exposure

102 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
alone (it being known that his men have never received winter.
clothing) in this severe weather must be exceedingly heavy,
especially with the short rations they must now be receiving.
It is generally believed by the foreign military men now pre
sent with Mehemet Ali's army that the heights of Kamarli
cannot be long held against the full force of the bulk of the
Russian army before Plevna, and that, concurrently with its
fall (unless the Turkish troops are reinforced to double their
present strength, which may be roughly taken at 30,000
men), the road to Sofia will, in consequence, have to be left
open to the invaders, and that city be compelled to surrender
at discretion, whilst the Turkish army is compelled to fall
back towards the east, and hold the pass before Ichteman.
The utmost anxiety is felt in Sofia at the prospect of its
falling into Russian hands. For several days all the better
class have been leaving, and long files of vehicles of every
imaginable description, filled with Turkish families in pic
turesque attire, intermingled with Greeks and Bulgarians,
and strings of heavily-laden pack-horses, can be seen quitting
the apparently doomed city eastwards towards Philippopolis,
Adrianople, and the capital, or southwards to Salonica and
the coast. Houses can, consequently, be had for the asking,
and the hospital accommodation accorded to the English
surgeons is unlimited.
The administrators of the Stafford House Society, Messrs.
Pratt and Cullen, are energetically carrying out the instruc
tions of Mr. Barrington Kennett, who is directing its affairs
from Constantinople, and at the same time giving his aid and
the benefit of his counsel to the Red Crescent Society. The
latter, however, being a purely Turkish or Levantine associa
tion, stands in need of some such guiding hand to enable its
large funds to be distributed in such manner as to be of the
greatest service. It has done much good near the front,
where the English surgeons attached to it vie with their
foreign brethren in attention to the wounded taken to their
ambulance, placed somewhat too conveniently near the enemy's
range. The other day, on my way up to the heights, whilst
the Russians were shelling the redoubt somewhat heavily,
I looked into the tents where the Red Crescent was flying in

NATIONAL AID AND STAFFORD HOUSE SOCIETIES. 103
the cutting breeze to see what was doing. Some terrible
cases, fresh from the front, were being brought down, to
which two French surgeons, Drs. Bazy, of Toulouse, and
Manoury, of Orleans, were giving all the immediate atten
tion possible, when a heavy shell fell twenty yards off, bury
ing itself in the earth, but, happily, not exploding. I had
just been invited to look at the case of a man who had been
shot through the lungs, and was asked to hold a lucifer to
the aperture to prove that breathing took place through it,
as it did, sure enough, to the extent of blowing out the
match. That very morning no fewer than twelve men came
in with finger wounds, the forefinger of the right hand being
generally that which was shot. These cases received scant
sympathy from the busy surgeons, who very openly gave their
opinion as to the manner in which the wounds were inflicted.
The increase in this system of attempt to become invalided
¦ has become so great that Mehemet Ali has ordered seven of
the soldiers who had only too evidently pulled the trigger
with their own feet, to be shot in the presence of their
battalions, and this sentence has just been carried out.
Referring to the ambulance work, reminds me of the great
amount of good the English societies — the National Aid and
Stafford House — are doing to the cause of humanity. Both
these admirably managed institutions are models of their
kind, and, together with the indefatigable Lady Strangford,
who flies her flag over the Bulgarian schools in the heart of
Sofia, scorning to beat a retreat, merit support from every
one anxious to mitigate suffering. Lady Burdett-Coutts, in
her customary practical manner, is taking the deepest interest
in watching that her Turkish Compassionate Fund is being
wisely administered. Her active agent, Mr. Masters, whose
good-humoured face beams with satisfaction as he sees that a
couple of thousand of the poorest refugees are fed daily, is
the right man in the right place in Sofia. The distress
everywhere apparent is painful enough. For many a mile
along the highways the graves of those who have died by
the roadside — small ones being far the most numerous — are
never absent from sight. The weather is becoming intensely
severe, and the mortality will greatly increase.

104 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Sofia, December 11th. — Rumours are beginning to circulate that
Plevna has fallen. If the news be true, it ought to awaken",;
the Sultan and his advisers to the importance of making
peace whilst there is yet time. Let the Pass of Kamarli fall
into Russian hands, and the Czar's demands will be hard
indeed.

CHAPTER IV.
THE TURKISH DEFENCE OF ERZEROUM.
Erzeroum summoned toSurrender. — Evasive Reply of Mukhtar Pacha. — Anxietyiu
the City. — Description of the Defences. — Attacks on the Forts. — Capture and
Recapture of Fort Azizieh. — Renewed Attacks. — Descriptions of the Troops on
the Ramparts. — The Grand Duke Michael and the Turkish Prisoners. — Diffi
culty of forwarding News. — The "Last Moukhir in Erzeroum. " — Another
Summons to Surrender. — News from Kars. — The Bashi-Bazouks and the
Shopkeepers. — The False. News published in Constantinople. — Mukhtar
Pacha's Tactics. — Prospects of the Defence of Erzeroum. — A Fugitive from
Kars. — Spies within the Town. — Case of Captain Temayeff. — An Interview
with Mukhtar Pacha. — Arrival of the Caravan from Persia. —Change of
Quarters. — Muhir Ali and his "Black Hats."— Sir Arnold Kemball.— A
Levy of "Contributions." — An Armenian Village. — A Visit to the Chief
Inhabitant. — Polyglot Conversation. — The Village of Illidge. — The Turkish
Sick and Wounded.
While the advance of General Gourko across the Balkans is
temporarily suspended— the Russian and Turkish armies being
both engaged in fortifying their positions in the neighbourhood
of Orkanieh— and the Army of Investment is still expecting the
crowning incident of the long protracted struggle, we have an
opportunity of glancing at affairs in Asia.
The fall of Kara on the 17-18 November has been fully
described by writers whose letters are included in the previous

ATTACK ON ERZEROUM. 105
volume of the " Daily News' War Correspondence." Brief
particulars have also been given in the same volume of the
hasty pursuit of Mukhtar Pacha's forces in the direction of
Erzeroum by General Heimann, who, having been joined by
General Tergukasoff, attacked the outworks east of Erzeroum
on the 4th of November, and captured the position of Deve-
Boyun, which had been regarded as almost impregnable. This
brilliant affair was followed up by a further attack on the
forts which being only partly successful the Russians found it
prudent to retire. A second attack immediately afterwards
having been wholly unsuccessful and attended with serious loss,
the operations of General Heimann were suspended in the
expectation of reinforcements. The defenders of Erzeroum,
having had time to recover from the panic consequent on the
precipitate retreat of Mukhtar Pacha, had probably now
convinced the Russian generals that the city would not be
captured without a regular investment, or at least without a
considerable increase in the number of their troops ; but the
heavy falls of snow contributed to the causes of the inaction
of the Russians.
The following letters from a correspondent at Erzeroum
describe in full detail incidents of the defence of the city
against these attacks : — ¦
D Erzeroum, November 10th. — In my last letter I spoke of an
attack as imminent. I did not think it was so near. This
morning, at half -past three o'clock, I was roused by the mingled
uproar of musketry and artillery. People were running wildly
about, and battalions marching to the ramparts cheered at
every fifty yards of the way. The crest of the Top Dagh was
all aflame with flashing musketry as I reached the flat earth-
terrace of my lodging ; and beyond came the wild glare of
cannon. It was evident that the expected hostilities had
commenced.
Some of the older inhabitants of Erzeroum may remember the
fighting in 1829. For the great bulk of the population an

106- WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
enemy's fire was a new experience. Still, in view of the cir
cumstances, the steady behaviour of the people was remark
able. Yesterday the Russians sent in a flag of truce asking
Mukhtar Pacha to surrender. The General replied that he
could not give an immediate answer, requiring time to com
municate with Constantinople. I don't believe he ever for a
moment entertained the idea of surrendering. I consider he
rather wanted to gain a few more hours to get his somewhat
disorganized forces into better fighting order. Whether he
communicated with Stamboul or not, I don't know ; but we
were told here that fight to the last was determined on ; and,
accordingly, a marvellously great train of waggons and ox-carts
went off straightway from the town. Of course we couldn't
have any idea when the enemy meant hostilities. The towns
people showed their appreciation of its imminence by imme
diately shutting up their shops, after previously removing all
their portable goods to a place of safety.
We had not to wait long. In company with some timid
Armenians, I sat up, waiting the coming event. Some of
them cursed the Russians, many the Turks ; and most were
of opinion that the situation was not to be borne. Some
began at last to doubt the reality of the entire affair, when
the situation I have described above suddenly arrived. In
the particular circle in which I move, I was at once endued
with prophetic attributes. I had been to see the General-in-
Chief that evening, and had learned from him how matters
stood. I told the people around me that I believed an attack
was immediately to be expected, and it came to pass. Men
half-dressed, and women with children in their arms, came
crowding into my room. Knock after knock announced
fresh arrivals, and at length I presided over a numerous
levee. The people, I suppose, believed that by what seemed
to them a preternatural prescience in foretelling what was
about to happen, I could by the same means be a protection
against the stray shells, which, clearing the fort above us,
fell into the town.
It was an anxious moment for every one. Those lon°- lingering
flashes any one familiar with such scenes can recognize ; gun
flashes and shell blazes lit up the air incessantly. What

THE " CANNON HILL." 107
troubled us most was the glittering crest of fire hard by on
the left, where our troops were plying their Martini-Henrys
in manful style. If the enemy be so near as to require being
shot at from that, we said to ourselves, they must be very
close indeed. Every now and then a shell of the attack
would come screeching and whooping into the town, and
light up some dark garden with its ominous blaze. So things
went on during four and a half mortal hours. Nobody could
tell how matters stood. At last came the daybreak ; but still
there was the same uninterrupted roar of fire, glad we were
to say, sounding more distant. Another half-hour and the
practised ear could tell that the attack had failed. Duller
and duller sounded the grumble of musketry in the pale grey
light ; and there was fire in quarters which we couldn't
understand. The' fact was, we were all at sea until we had
definite news later on.
To the east of the town is a long gently sloping hill, known as
the Top Dagh (the cannon hill). It runs more or less at
right angles to the longer axis of the oval town, and is
crowned by three forts — in the centre the Medjidieh, to
the right the Azizieh, and to the left the Karshach Tabia.
This latter is named in honour of the inhabitants who, in
1854, lent personal and ' pecuniary aid to its construction.
It is a rude earthen redoubt. The other two are stone-faced
forts with steeply revetted scarps and imposing-looking stone
barracks within, something like Forts Issy and Ivry outside
Paris. At either extremity of the town are two hills ; one is
the top Dagh, the other the Keremitlik tabia hill, just like
the Emir Oglon and its companion fort at Ardahan. The
possession of either would have ensured the town to the
assailants. They chose the Top Dagh, the more difficult of
the two, because, I suppose, it lay nearest their positions on
the Toui Dagh, a parallel line of hills, whence they could
assail without marching a long way round under the fire of
the guns of the ramparts, sufficiently dangerous even at
night. Besides, there are some streams, minor tributaries
of the Western Euphrates, which have been dammed up so
as to produce inundations and marshy ground, very in
convenient for a night assailant, and which cover a large

108 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
extent of rampart on the north. I need hardly say that no
one, especially a Giaour, could venture outside the ramparts,
or even near them, in the darkness. Fortunately for personal
safety, there was no necessity for this. High above us, black
against the starless blackness, was the long huge mass of the
Top Dagh. It was much too near my residence to he
agreeable. Consistent with strict personal safety, I could not
have been much nearer the main scene of conflict ; and
occasionally the semi-musical whizz of a bullet or shell
fragment reminded the forgetful of personal risks.
As the red dawn came over the Deve-Boyun hills, intelligence
of the actual situation began to reach ns. I was " on the
house-top." Cavalry soldiers going wildly about informed
the public that the Russians had taken the Azizieh Port.
And this was a fact, as we afterwards learned. At two
o'clock in the morning the enemy had stormed the advanced
work on the southern extremity of the Top Dagh. It seems1
they surprised the garrison and even entered into the great
stone barracks amid the work. We afterwards saw the broad
scaling ladder they had left in the fosse. It seems they
surprised the sleeping sentinels and got into the place before
any one was rightly aware what was going on. People who
were there tell me that the assailing force, some two companies
of grenadiers, wore fezes in order to deceive the defenders.
This I don't believe. One thing there can be no doubt about
— the Azizieh Fort was taken, and it was only towards day
break that Mehemet Pacha, the hero of Kiziltepe and Yagni
Cutchuk, succeeded in retaking it at the head of three
battalions. Had we known what was really going on at the
time I believe a most disastrous panic would have ensued. j
As it was, the troops, armed citizens included, remained steady
at their posts. Shortly after daybreak, finding that tbe din
of combat got further and further off, I rode out to see what
way matters was going. The Turks had already assumed
the aggressive, and were fighting down at the western end
of the Deve-Boyun Pass, which adjoins the city. A long line
of cavalry, supported by heavy reserves, was halted across
the valley mouth. I went slowly forward and saw a heavy
infantry engagement going on away up the Pass. The

FIGHT FOR THE AZIZIEH FORT. 109
Turkish troops were pursuing the Russians, who had failed
to hold their own in the Azizieh Fort. For an hour I
watched the fight, and then I began to see Russian troops
pushing along the mountain slopes which gird the plain
south of Erzeroum. I feared that, as at the battle of Aladja,
field guns were pushing on to sweep our line of retreat, and I
began drawing back towards the town gate. Shortly after
the Ottomans began to retire, and I entered the town some
what hurriedly with fugitive horsemen.
It was well I did so, for considerable disorder followed. The
armed townspeople, who had made a sally, had allowed
themselves to be drawn too far, and when the enemy re-
assumed the offensive, withdrew with a certain amount of
haste. I went up afterwards to look at the night's battle
field. Russian and Turkish dead covered the ground within
and without the ramparts of Azizieh ; the former, as usual
under such circumstances, entirely stripped of their clothing.
Some of the townspeople, in a spirit of uncompromising
hatred, were maltreating their dead enemies — one man jump
ing with both heels on the still fresh body of a Russian, a
gurgling cry escaping from his mouth with each concussion.
The bodies were being buried as quickly as possible by order
of Mukhtar Pacha. Indeed, a very considerable number had
been already interred when I reached the ground. The
Turkish loss was, I dare say, nearly seven hundred hors de
combat. I do not think the Russians lost much more. We
are momentarily expecting a renewal of hostilities, and feel
pretty sure that ere long our communications with Trebizond
will be cut by the enemy's cavalry. As it is, we can see
them hovering about the mouth of the Olti Valley north of
the town.
? Erzeroum, November 12th. — It is nine o'clock in the evening,
pitchy dark, save when the congreve rockets and field-gun
shells light up the gloom with their blazing flash. The heavy
rumble of musketry mingles with the downpour of rain and
the splashing of the street currents, and the half- savage dogs
of an Eastern town howl hoarsely. For the second time the
Russians are assailing the Medjidieh and Azizieh Forts on

110 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the Top Dagh east of the town, and have apparently added a
subsidiary attack on the northern ramparts, outside of which
their rocket corps are established. On the last occasion they
took the Azizieh Fort. At present we do not know how we
stand. The musketry which is blazing wildly along the
crest of the Top Dagh tells us how near the enemy is. Since
I commenced this I have gone out on the flat earthen roof
of the semi- Armenian, semi- Persian house which I inhabit.
The wild glare of the rockets puts all calculation at nought.
Whether the blaze came from guns of the defence, from
shells, or from those other projectiles latterly introduced into
Asiatic warfare, no uninitiated person could tell. For me,
it is not the first time I have heard the noisy rocket whizz,
and I feel comparatively at ease as I come down again from
my perch and commence writing. The heavy, foggy night,
the drizzling rain, the unexpected hour, all tend to make one
believe that something serious is meant. Before morning we
shall know. While listening to all this rude noise, and not
knowing the instant a shell clearing the brow of the fort, not
over one thousand yards off, and hanging steeply above the
town, may drop on the roof, it is not easy to write. But, as
I may not have time to-morrow, I deliver myself to the
reflections of the moment.
Hard by, on a minaret, the priest of the mosque is making his
sonorous voice heard above the surrounding din. He is
calling on Allah to protect the brave defenders of the ram
parts ; and, as I happen to know in what condition these
defenders find themselves, I think they stand in need of all
the extraneous help they can get. The regular troops are so
few compared to the extent of the ramparts — it would take
forty thousand men to hold them efficiently against a simul
taneous attack — that the local Bashi-Bazouks, the armed
inhabitants of the town, do regular military service to replace
the missing troops. These men, with their printed calico
garments and mediaeval flint-lock muskets, must be having a
hard time of it in the glacial downpour of rain which
characterizes a situation considerably over eight thousand
feet above the sea level, and in the midst of the month of
November.

THE TURKISH GUNNERS. Ill
The streets are quiet enough. The Armenian population, like
so many rabbits in a burrow, seek the furthermost shelter of
their rickety houses. The Moslems, the privileged warriors,
are all at the ramparts. Nasty troops of wolf -like dogs, who
belong to nobody, cower on the rubbish heaps at the corners,
and show their glimmering teeth at the few passers-by, called
outside by the circumstances, like myself. You meet half-
drowned soldiers, heavily laden with clot-like bread packed
in their sodden blankets. Poor fellows ! they take it all
calmly enough. There is Allah, and the Padishah, and
Mukhtar Pacha, who bid them go, and used as they are to
obey the every nod of a nameless Pacha, far off in a province
it would take a gazeteer to find out, how can they dream
that victory is not chained to their standards ? And yet the
battle of Aladja and the capture of Deve-Boyun are not so
remote. They say one of the best characteristics of British
troops is that they don't know when they are beaten. Turkish
soldiers possess this quality to a rare extreme. Who knows
how far it may carry them ?
Half an Hour Later. — All is still, save when the thunder of a
heavy gun from the nearer ramparts indicates that the gun
ners fancy they perceive something five hundred yards off, on
a night when fifty paces away a horseman could not be
possibly visible. As a rule Turkish gunners have more
courage than common sense to spare. Evidently for the
moment everything is over ; but I know enough of Russian
persistency to be fearful that before morning dawns my
scant slumbers may be broken in upon by the far from
agreeable noise that tells of the effective range of shells and
rockets. These latter projectiles make more noise than they
do harm in an earth-roofed, stone-built town like Erzeroum.
There is a great deal of whizzing, followed by a blazing glare
of red light, and a thundering detonation. At first these
missiles frightened the Turkish soldiery immensely ; but now
they are getting used to them, they consider them no worse
than shells. It was curious to go out into the streets after
the attack. Every one was still at his post. The liquid mud
which on the occasion of a rainfall takes the place of water

112 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
here was duly fumbling its heavy way down the ill-paved
precipitous streets ; the uneasy dogs still felt inclined to
snap at the unturbaned stranger ; and from away out in the
plain came the pattering fire of the obstinate Muscovites,
unwilling to abandon their attack even though repulsed.
From what I have seen of the fighting of the population of
Erzeroum, I consider it, from a military point of view,
immensely superior to that of Kars. It may be, it is true,
that my experience of these latter was drawn from runaway
conduct in an open plain ; whereas here, every one fights
behind a breastwork. Still the fact cannot be denied that I
have seen honest old Moslems with long white beards, and
brass-ringed octagonal stocked muskets of another age, in
the advanced forts, awaiting the attack with a bravery that
might shame younger men. A little way further on, one sees
men bearing something muffled in a dusky blanket. It is a
wounded man. Then come many more such. Smothered
fires gleam along the rear of the ramparts. They were lit
to enable men perishing on this bitter cold night to stand the,
biting temperature. A bugle rings out ; it is followed by
many another. The sonnerie is " Long life to the Padishah !"
and wild cries that seem far from cheerful reply to the call.
Again and again comes the bugle-call ; and as often comes
the same wailing cry in return. There was a time to-night
when the critical moment had arrived, and when this cry,
uttered in a transport of enthusiasm, reached us from the
lines on the Top Dagh above. Many believed it was a
Russian "hurrah," and many a one barred his doors, fearing
the arrival of a victorious storming column. A rumour is
prevalent here (of its truth I have up to the present had no
means of judging), that the Russians never assault save when
the troops are full of the ardent spirit called vodka. Our
prime fear in Erzeroum is the arrival of excited soldiers, in
an exalted state ; and many a one who wishes well to the
assailants — the Armenians and Greeks, who form such a large
proportion of the population — would welcome a victorious-
assaulting column, if it were not for this dread of abnormally
stimulated energies. I wish to recommend this observation
to the enemy's commanders ; for the evils inseparable from

POSTAL DEFICIENCIES. 113
war are in the minds of people here intensified by the dread
of an excited soldiery. In war, no doubt, many things are
justifiable which, under other circumstances, would hardly be
considered fair. In reply to these accusations, we have had,
no later than yesterday, a striking proof of Russian humanity.
In the afternoon a train of arabas (ox waggons) debouched
from the month of the Deve-Boyun Pass. It bore sixty-nine
wounded Turks captured at Hassan Kale, when the Russians
surprised us there. It was accompanied by a letter from the
Grand Duke Michael, commenting on the different behaviour
of his troops towards the Turkish wounded, and that of the
Sultan's army towards the Russians. Of these Turkish
wounded, each one had given him two blankets and one
hundred piastres (about ten shillings). Poor fellows ! many
were badly maimed, but none had been forwarded to the
Turkish lines till judged fit for transport. The araba drivers
said they had been very fairly treated by the Russian regulars,
but complained of the blows received at the hands of the
Cossack escort which accompanied the train to expedite their
march. Irregulars are at best a bad set in any army ; and
no doubt the Cossacks are as much up to the mark in this
respect as the Karapabaks on our side.
The post is an institution long since fallen into disuse. No one,
save the powers that be, can have an idea of its date of de
parture — even when it does depart. To ensure the arrival of
my letters, I have been obliged to send special foot couriers,
as I did from Kars. Even then the risk is very considerable.
The man must first run his chance of the Turkish irregulars
outside the walls, and then of the stray Cossack squadrons
who find their way to the high road between this and Trebi-
zond. After these come the brigands. I had to pay for a
new coat for my last courier, summarily disrobed on the Kop
Dagh. People may wonder why our news from this side
does not reach Europe more quickly. They should be here to
judge.
Midnight. — I have sat up till this hour, awaiting a fresh assault.
Everything is quiet. I can't say whether we shall have
another renewal of the attack by daybreak. In any case I
VOL. II. i

114 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
go to bed to be prepared for exigencies. The rain continues
to fall heavily. Even the dogs keep silent. The poor Bashi-
Bazouks on the ramparts are to be pitied almost as much as
the Correspondent of the Daily News, who finds himself in
Erzeroum, the last of his kind, trusting to Providence to get
his letters off.
D November 14f A— Your readers can hardly imagine what a time
we are having here with shells and congreve rockets. It is
only in the intervals of the fire that I can possibly write. In
the foregoing I only allude to direct assaults. We have now
become so accustomed to distant fire that we do not think it
worth mentioning. It is now three in the morning. I have
had several visits from Turkish officers to congratulate me on
the fact of my being the last " Moukhir " on the ground,
and to tell me how good an impression is produced on the
troops by the fact " that an Englishman still stands hy
them."
D Erzeroum, Thursday, November 21st. — With each succeeding
moment our peril increases. We have been again summoned
to surrender, under pain of immediate bombardment, and a
Russian message simultaneously announced the fall of Kars.
This news I have not been permitted to telegraph, as only
intelligence favourable to the Turkish cause will be permitted
by wire. This information has been officially announced.
On Tuesday last the anxiety of the inhabitants rose to a painfnl
pitch of intensity. It was the feast of St. Michael, the patron
saint of the Russian Grand Duke, and for some time past a
belief had been gaining ground that the saint's day would he
signalized either by another furious attack, or by the opening
of the bombardment. About midday the booming of artillery
led us to suppose our fears were about being realized. All
the morning the greatest activity had prevailed at head
quarters, and it was evident something serious was expected.
The cannonade, however, ceased as suddenly as it had begun,
without a single projectile having reached the town. Wenoff
learn that it was a salute which was being fired, some suppose
for the Grand Duke's fete day, others in celebration of the

NEWS FROM KARS. 115
fall of Kars. About this latter event we have no information
save current rumours, and the statement of the Russian
mes'senger.
The same day a peasant bearing a letter from Hussein Havni
Pacha, commanding at Kars, reached Erzeroum. He had been
ten days en route, owing to the necessity of making detours
to avoid the enemy. The letter stated that the Russians had
attacked the fort of Hafiz Pacha on the 9th instant, and
though they succeeded in penetrating into the work, were
i ultimately driven out again with a loss of twelve hundred.
The town was much injured by the Russian bombardment,
and by the unfortunate explosion of a large powder magazine.
Provisions were reported to be plentiful, but the inhabitants,
demoralized by the terrible efficacy of the Russian fire,
clamoured for a surrender. The General stated that unless
aid reached him within ten days he would probably be forced
to surrender. Situated as Kars is, all aid is impossible, so
that as the time specified by the General has already expired,
the surrender of the town seems quite within the realms of
probability. Should it be true that the Russians are masters
of Kars, the capture of Erzeroum becomes a mere matter of
time. The Russian forces neutralized by the siege operations
of Kars can now be brought up, and the heavy guns used in
attacking the latter place put in position against this town.
The inhabitants are in a state of continued alarm, and unless
kept in awe by Mukhtar Pacha's army, would probably send
in their submission to the Russian commander immediately.
It is only with the greatest difficulty they can be got to keep
their shops open. The civil governor was obliged to ordain a
fine of five pounds in the case of those refusing to comply
with the orders in this regard. The people themselves tell
me it is through fear of the soldiery they dare not keep their
shops open. Bashi-Bazouks, they say, come in to purchase
articles, demanding change for large notes. Small money is
almost entirely absent here, and when the merchant is unable
to give the requisite change, the purchasers lay hands on the
article, and go away without paying at all. It is true a
good deal of irregularity exists among soldiers off duty, as a
consequence of the existing panic. Only a few clays ago the

116 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
General-in-Chief was obliged to have nine soldiers shot, and
a colonel degraded, for irregular conduct and personal
cowardice during the late fights.
From the European newspapers which reach this place I see
with astonishment how persistently the Turkish Stamboul
• authorities persist in stating that Hadji Rechid Pacha and
his division succeeded in making their way from the Aladja'
Dagh and joining Mukhtar Pacha at Yenikani. There is not
a word of truth in this statement, or in that that any of the
other six generals captured on the same occasion succeeded
in getting away. It is true that Moussa Pacha and Ghazi
Mehemet Pacha (Schamyl) got away with their personal
attendants, but, then, these are not included in the list of,
seven generals taken prisoners with the bulk of the army and
the forty-two guns.
D Erzeroum, November 23rcL— Owing to the result of the Kars
operations, a large Russian force has been able to be added i
to the Grand Duke's army around our walls, and heavy guns
have been put in position. In all likelihood this is the last'
letter I shall be able to send from Erzeroum, as our commu
nications will doubtless be cut almost immediately. As I
have already announced, the Civil Government has gone off
towards Trebizond, and the reinforcements en route for
Erzeroum ordered to halt at the Kop Dagh, a huge mountain1
forming one of the last military positions between this and
Trebizond. To-day, I learn that the Commander-in-Chief
has sent off his personal effects, and is preparing to follow the
battalions despatched to keep the road in the immediate
vicinity of the town free from Cossacks. The whole thing!
looks very bad for us ; and every one in the town shares this'
opinion with me. Next comes the question, if Mukhtar
Pacha leaves us, will he at the same time act as at Kars,
leaving a garrison behind him, and ordering the defence of
Erzeroum ; or will he simply evacuate the town ? When the
Marshal was overwhelmed at Aladja he fell back on Kars with
his shattered army. The Russians were close by ; not only
close by, but had already passed us on the way to tie
Soghanli Mountains, menacing our line of retreat. After one.

POSITION OF MUKHTAR PACHA. 117
day's stay in Kars to gather into form his disorganized mili
tary elements, Mukhtar Pacha — wisely deeming that if he
committed himself solely to the defence of the city, keeping
within its lines, he would leave Erzeroum and the entire of
the province at the mercy of mere flying columns — fell back,
as I have already described in preceding letters, along the
Olti Valley. He halted merely to give Ishmael Pacha time
to rejoin him, as the latter fled from Bayazid. The union
took place at Kuprikoi, and thence the united force fell back
on the position at Deve-Boyun covering Erzeroum.
Here we have the comparison : Mukhtar Pacha, covering Kars,
holding the position of Aladja in front of the town, then the
same General, falling back on another position, covering
Erzeroum. Beaten from this, he falls back on the town as he
did on Kars. The question is, Will he not again repeat the
same tactics and fall back from Erzeroum in turn on the tre
mendous position of the Kop Dagh, leaving a garrison behind
him ? Defeated at Aladja, he could not hold the nearer
position of the Soghanli Mountains. He had to retreat to
the junction of the Erzeroum and Bayazid roads, where he
could join with the troops of the extreme right wing, and
found no nearer standing-point than Deve-Boyun. Still,
though beaten there, the winter had already set in, retarding
the enemy's march ; Kars still held out ; and close by was
the city of Erzeroum, its ramparts armed with a formidable
artillery, and sufficiently garrisoned to defy a coup de main
of an advanced guard. When beaten at Deve-Boyun, rein
forcements were already on their way to join the Turkish
army. They came too late for the fight, but soon enough to
be a timely garrison for Erzeroum. The Russian pursuing
force, coming slowly up through the narrow mountain Pass
of Deve-Boyun, commanded by the advanced Erzeroum forts
and the western ramparts, could not possibly assail the rein
forced Turkish troops.
(Irzeroum saved the Ottoman army from a precipitate retreat
on the second last position covering Trebizond, the Kop
Dagh. Its extent and resources alone altered the situation
after the second retreat of the Turkish army. But how long
it will continue to do so is another question. In the 1828-9

118 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
campaign it fell at once after the taking of Kars. It is true
that since the Crimean war it has in one sense been strongly
fortified — very strongly for these days. But Erzeroum is
within easy shelling range of modern artillery from many a
surrounding hill-side, and its position can be turned north
and south. An enemy holding the Deve-Boyun Pass can.
march at will on Trebizond or Ersigan, leaving a couple of
divisions to masque the town. A general-in-chief, with
what is left to him of an army, cannot afford to shut himself
up here. That would be to leave Armenia in the hands of
the enemy, and to ensure the certain surrender of himself and
his army, unless, like Hussein Hami Pacha, he could elude
the vigilance of the beleaguerers, and escape into the hills like
the ex- Commander of Kars, whose advent is hourly expected
here. We have a line of ramparts which in the olden times
required at least forty thousand men to guarantee them.
against a general attack. To-day there are not twenty
thousand within the walls. Suppose the Marshal retires in
time on the Kop Dagh with part of his force, Erzeroum is
inevitably lost within three days. Honour and orders from
Constantinople forbid a total evacuation. A victorious
enemy's army launched across the plain would inevitably
sweep like one of its own avalanches over the Kop Dagh,
half garrisoned, in any case ; so that whatever way we look
at the situation, I think it a lost one for the Turks. Some
people talk about the winter interrupting Russian opera
tions. They said the same about the line of communications,
between this and Kars ; they said the Soghanli Mountains
were impassable a month ago, and yet the Russians are nowl
at our very doors. Mukhtar Pacha, then, finds himself in]
the very disagreeable position of being forced to retire before i
the enemy, leaving an insufficient garrison. It is hard to say!
how matters will eventually turn out, but on the whole they
look uncommonly bad for Mukhtar Pacha and his army.
Even though we be not assaulted on all sides ; even though
the Russians spare the large Christian population of the town,
the horrors of a bombardment, there is another possible and
very probable contingency. The Russian troops set free by
the capture of Kars are already on the march to Deve-Boyun

A FUGITIVE FROM KAES. 119
Another three days will find them joined to the force which
menaces us. We all believe that this force of over twenty-
five thousand men will not limit itself to sitting down idly in
company with an army already sufficiently formidable to
defy any aggression on our part, but will by a turning move
ment occupy the way that leads to Trebizond, at a few leagues
from this, cutting our communications and reducing us to a
fatal condition of isolation. I myself think this will be
effected, and before long. Accordingly, with a view of keep
ing up my postal communications, I intend, inch Allah, as
the Turks say, speedily to move my quarters to a point
outside the possible lines of investment.
The latest fugitive from Kars brings ns a tale of terror. He
says that every one, Christian as well as Mussulman, was put
to the sword when the Russians surprised the town. The
bearer of the tidings was a Mussulman, and no doubt was
not unduly charitable to the foe. What he says, duly
embellished, had succeeded in throwing the timid Armenian
inhabitants into a paroxysm of ecstatic terror. In my capa
city of correspondent — a being supposed here to be endowed
with an all but supernatural knowledge on current events,
and a prescience of no mean order as to the future, I have
had crowds of people invading my oda, and tremulously
asking what they should do in view of the impending
catastrophe. It is really pitiable to witness the mental
condition of the Christian population. Men are divided
between the double fear of a massacre of Christians by irate
Turks, and a massacre of everybody by excited Russians in
the course of a night attack.
A very curious and interesting case has just come to light in
connection with the Russian assault on the town on the
morning of the 10th inst. During the fight, a certain
Captain Temayeff, after a single combat with a Turkish
officer, was severely wounded. The latter, too, was so
roughly handled that he is now in hospital. Evidence
showed that the Russian had not died of his wounds, but
been done to death by subsequent maltreatment as he lay
wounded outside the fort he assailed with his men. Some
how — and we do not know how — the Russians got wind of

120 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the affair. Turkish officials tell me there is some one within the
town who, under cover of other business, keeps the enemy
informed of what goes on. Anyhow, the Russians sent in a
flag of truce with a demand to investigate the particular case
I refer to. The French Consul, M. Gilbert, being the person
authorized to protect Russian interests during the abnormal
existing state of things, took the matter up. Then it appeared
that Captain Temayeff came by his end owing to gross mal
treatment while he was lying wounded and helpless on the
field of battle. The man who first struck him down, and
who was himself severely wounded in return, was called as a
witness. He is a Turkish captain, then in hospital. He
stated that during the fight he incidentally met with
Captain Temayeff, and thereupon entered into combat with
him, that he struck at him with his sabre, and that the
captain, parrying the blow with his revolver, struck in
return, wounding the deponent severely ; whereupon de
ponent did strike again, putting Captain Temayeff hors de
combat. This he declares is all he knows about the matter.
Other witnesses say they saw people jumping upon the
wounded body of the Russian captain, and declare they
believe that by these acts of violence he was killed, or at
least his death hastened in an unseemly manner. The
investigation is still pending. The great matter of curiosity
is how the Russians came to know what passed within our
lines so long after they had withdrawn to theirs. The thing,
only shows that something wrong is going on within the
town ; it is not the first time it has been suspected.
We are still waiting for Hussein Hami Pacha, Commandant of'
Kars, and the three hundred horsemen that got out of Kars
during the assault. I am afraid he has suffered some mishap.
As the relicts of the fight, who reach us from time to time,
come in, they confirm the intelligence that the Russians
entered by an embrasure in the Khanlitabia, and that there
was some collusion between its garrison and the attacking
party. The fall of the frontier town has produced a sad
effect on the belligerent population. In it they see the reflex
of their own fate. The other day a rumour went abroad that
the Commander-in-Chief had already sent away his personal

INTERVIEW WITH MUKHTAR PACHA. 121
baggage, and that he himself was about to follow in the rear
of his movables. Thereupon a crew of combat-fearing
persons waited on me, all wishing to know whether the
thing was true in substance, and, if so, what would be the
probable result. I had heard the same thing myself from
reliable sources, and, to say the truth, was sorely troubled in
spirit what to do or think. I determined that a visit to the
Marshal himself was the shortest way to meet the difficulty.
It was three o'clock in the afternoon when I called on Mukhtar
Pacha at the Yeni Kishlar, the principal barracks of Erze
roum. It is a wide, desolate-looking square of sad-coloured
limestone, looking like a model European prison. A crowd
of ragged camels and Rosinante-like pack-horses stray per
petually in its immediate vicinity. I entered by the main
gate. Four sentinels on either side guarded it. I flung my
horse's bridle to one, and taking a dirty staircase to the left,
arrived at a long wide corridor, desolate and dirty as the stair
case. Awkward-looking soldiers with yellowish-white baggy
overcoats stood about and came uneasily to " attention " as
any unknown tolerably-dressed stranger and possible Pacha
came by. A long line of great arched windows fronted an
equal extent of blank, dreary wall, along which hung, like so
many funeral palls, the sombre-coloured curtains closing the
entrances to the different apartments. No. 1 is that of the
captain of the guard — where that functionary, clad in brown
flannel, sits gloomily staring at the dingy, whitewashed walls,
smutted by the smoke of the tottering stove that roars like a
small tempest in the corner. Next door are a couple of aides-
de-camp, one of whom, after conducting you to the neigh
bouring chamber of the secretary, lifts the drapery before the
Marshal's doorway, and you are in the presence of the redoubted
Ghazi Achmet Mukhtar Pacha, Commanding-in- Chief the
Ottoman armies of Armenia. The room, like the others, is
bare and whitewashed. A low divan runs round two of its
sides. Opposite the door, on the divan, is a wolf-skin and a
cushion — the bed of the Marshal. In another corner of the
divan is a sheepskin stained red. It is an old acquaintance
of mine. I have seen it in Herzegovina and in Montenegro.
I have seen it in sight of Alexandropol, when we were on the

122 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Aladja Mountain ; I have seen it on the Soghanli Dagh, and
during the memorable flight from Kars. And here in the
Marshal's chamber I meet it again, and, as usual, the Marshal
seated cross-legged upon it.
An Eastern salaam given and returned, and I am motioned
gravely to a seat on the divan. Mukhtar Pacha is always
courteous, sometimes cordial, but rarely. Few Easterns are
expansive even in the smallest way. It was some time since
I had seen the Marshal, nearly a fortnight ; but even that
brief time had wrought sad changes. He is middle-sized and
square-faced. When I knew him first his features were
rounded and fresh-coloured, and his eye bright. Now,
thought and care have traced long furrows on cheek and
brow ; and though there is in the eyes a feverish fire, it is
rather that- of desperation and fierce resolution than the
buoyant expression of the victor of Chorumdusi and
Kiziltepe. At my last interview the Marshal had spoken
on the battle of Deve-Boyun, and given me the sketch of
the plan which I forwarded. On the latter occasion we
spoke mainly about the articles in the London newspapers ,
touching the battle of Aladja, and I translated for him in
extenso that which appeared in the Times. As I translated
it with the severest impartiality, and conveyed its full
meaning, it may be imagined the General was not by any
means content with the writer -who, whoever he be, had
better keep himself out of Armenia. He explained his
defeat, as he had done that of Aladja, by the extraordinary
accuracy of the enemy's artillery fire, which at Deve-Boyun
dismounted fourteen of his guns. I said that the most
sinister rumours prevailed in the town, every one being
under the impression that an evacuation of Erzeroum was
imminent. "Is your Excellency about to leave us?" I
asked. With a warmth very unusual in so calm-tempered
a man, he turned almost fiercely towards me. " Jamais,
jamais," he exclaimed, " while I have a man to stand by the
guns I shall never abandon Erzeroum."
I know the General trusts a good deal to the ally that beat the
French at Moscow, and when coming away from the Yeni
Kishlar I turned my eyes to the spectral white outlines of the

SAFE FROM A COUP DE MAIN. 123
Deve-Boyun mountains, half lost in whirling storms of snow,
I could not help sharing his idea. Still the Russians are
there, out in the sleet blasts, and we can see them working
at what looks suspiciously like a battery. Yesterday the
caravan from Persia came in, strangely enough — allowed to
pass through the Russian lines and enter a besieged city.
It came on boldly down the Deve-Boyun Pass without taking
even the ordinary precaution of sending ahead a flag of truce.
The result was that when the long column of men and camels
appeared in sight the heavy guns of the ramparts opened
fire, supposing naturally enough that it was a Russian
storming column that was advancing. The scene that
followed may be imagined. Camels, mules, and men all fled
in wild disorder as the first huge shells burst among them,
and it was hours before the caravan could be again collected.
When it ultimately got into Erzeroum, the Persians stated
that the Russians were, to all appearances, permanently
camped in the Deve-Boyun Pass. The tents, they told us,
were covered outside with thick felt ; and each had a stove,
well supplied with wood. Mukhtar Pacha says that, in
view of the precautions taken since the last two attempts to
carry the Kop Dagh forts by assault, he has now no fear of
the city falling by a coup de main on any one particular
point. A general assault, both on forts and on the lower
ramparts in the plain, is what he fears most — especially
when the entire of the Kars army arrives. I left the
General's presence convinced that, whatever the possibilities
on the part of the enemy, Erzeroum was to be defended
coute qui coute.
When I got to the bottom of the stairs I became aware of an
incident which for some time rather irritated me. During
my visit to the Commander-in-Chief I had left my horse in
the covered entrance below, where four sentries, side by side,
did honour to the Marshal's presence. My horse's bridle and
saddle-cloth and one of the saddle-girths had been abstracted
by some gallant trooper. I complained at once to the
General, and though the captain of the guard seemingly
made every effort to recover the lost articles, no result
followed. I do not know whether this kind of thing: is

124 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
possible opposite Whitehall. Here many wonderful things'
come to pass.
? Illidge (close to Erzeroum), November 28th. — Since
writing the preceding, rumours of the most alarming kind
relative to the movements of the newly-arrived Russian
troops led me to believe that our communications with
Trebizond were seriously menaced. I accordingly resolved
on carrying out my project of moving to a point where, while
within easy distance of Erzeroum (three hours' journey), I
should also be in a more favourable position to retire on the
Kop Dagh mountain should the worst arrive. I have only
got in here, and have no time to describe the place or its
surroundings, as the post goes almost immediately. As I
rode out of Erzeroum I noticed the extraordinary precautions
of which Mukhtar Pacha had spoken. On the ramparts,
sentries at fifty yards' intervals ; in the covered ways, a
similar line ; and fifty yards from the crest of the glacis, a
first line of sentinels in rifle-pits, not twenty yards apart.
Another fifty yards further out a similar line, the rifle-pits
alternating with those of the first line. And this in broad
daylight. Add to this that Muhir Ali, the chief of irregular
horse, patrols incessantly the ground over which an enemy
could advance, and it will be seen that a surprise is hardly
possible. What may be effected by frank force remains to
be seen.
U Illidge (close to Erzeroum), December 4th. — Winter has
set darkly in over Armenia ; and every day we marvel more
and more how the Russians can hold their own against the
weather away up the Deve-Boyun mountains, notwithstanding
even their felt-covered tents and well-supplied stoves. We
who are down in the plain, that is, merely six thousand feet
above the sea level, cannot help speculating on the feelings of
the beleaguering force, perched on ridges a couple of thousand
feet above us. Let your readers only fancy wintering in
tents at an elevation something double that of Snowdon, and
in a climate far severer than the insular one of Great Britain;
yet there they are, and whatever their intentions about

A BORDER GUERILLA CHIEF. 125
coming down to share the flat-topped houses of Erzeroum
with us, they show not the slightest symptom of retracing
their steps. As I mentioned in my last letter, so persuaded
am I that the present apparent inaction of the enemy is but
a cover for some comprehensive and fatal move, as far as the
capital of Armenia is concerned, that I . thought it best to
occupy a strategic point, close to that chosen by Sir Arnold
Kemball a good many days ago. Postal and telegraphic
communications were my principal object, for whether
Erzeroum be stormed or invested, we (the correspondents)
would be for a considerable period after the event forced to
keep our news for our own particular delectation. I feared
one of these particular possibilities : — First, and most likely,
a turning movement of the extra-Russian troops coming up
from Kars ; secondly, a violent bombardment and universal
flight of telegraphic and postal functionaries ; thirdly, a
general assault ; after which, for some time, as far as I
was concerned, a general disorganization of society would
necessarily follow, not to speak of the always possible chance
of coming in contact in the depths of the night with some
assailant more or less artificially stimulated. All these con
siderations weighed with me in taking up my present posi
tion ; but, besides, I had another in view. When within
Erzeroum one knows little or nothing of the enemy's posi
tions ; here one is in the extreme line of patrols.
A celebrated border guerilla chief, by name Muhir Ali, is
charged with the surveillance of the month of the Olti
Valley, and general observance of the ground adjoining the
mountains on the western side of the plain. He commands
some hundreds of cavalry known as the Karapabaks, the
"black hats." They are all border men like himself, and
wear as distinctive head-dress the truncated cone of black
sheepskin, whence they derive their name. They have done
good service along the Alexandropol frontier previous to
the disastrous fight of Aladja, and, having retreated with
Mukhtar Pacha, now constitute the only effective cavalry
force at his disposition. They are armed with the sixteen-
shooting Winchester rifle, with a sprinkling of Martini-
Peabody guns. Owing to the considerable period during

126 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
which they have had the choosing amid the cattle of the
country, they are very fairly horsed ; and, as a large number
wear the overcoats of dead Cossacks, tolerably well clothed.
I dare say they are a terror to the enemy — ca va sans dire —
perhaps almost as much as to the Armenians of villages such
as this which I inhabit for the moment. The Armenians are
a people who, as I have more than once previously mentioned,
are a timid, clever, hardworking lot of folks, who, either from
long desuetude or a natural dislike to arms, are but too apt
to yield ready compliance to any demand accompanied by a
promiscuous firing of pistols and brandishing of naked
swords, without even the show of resistance. I should
myself often feel rather timid when an irruption of wild
horsemen breaks on the desolation of our villiage were I not
under the shelter of the cegis name of " Correspondent."
There is a vague signification attached to this name, all the
more effective that it is vague — the omne ignotum fro
terribili. Sir Arnold Kemball's name is scarce second to that
of Mukhtar Pacha himself among people, civil and military,
here. When with a very justifiable caution he left Erzeroum
for a village not far from this, where he still remains, I
believe his abandonment of the town caused a serious
fluctuation in money values ; and I know that as a rule his
movements are looked upon as exact indications of the
fluctuations of Lord Beaconsfield's policy by the best-
informed citizeus of Erzeroum.
Being in such close contact with the foremost patrols, I naturally
learn a good deal about the enemy's movements which I should
not hear even from the Commander-in-Chief himself. For
the moment the Russians limit themselves — that is, their
original force — to the immediate vicinity of the Deve-Boyun
Pass, and the mouth of the Olti Valley, where it debouches
on the Erzeroum plain. From time to time a reconnaissance
is pushed along the mountains south-west of Erzeroum, and
we generally become aware of it by the heavy guns on the
ramparts in that direction trying their longest range in an
endeavour to derange the movements of the intruders. Still,
on the whole, the Russian forces which conquered the heights
of Deve-Boyun have suspiciously circumscribed their move-

PROSPECTS OF THE DEFENCE. 127
ments, and many a shrewd hypothesis is hazarded in the
better-informed Turkish military circles as to the where
abouts of the lately disengaged forces which besieged Kars.
As I mentioned in my last letter, the most extraordinary pre
cautions are taken to prevent a surprise, especially at the
side of the town opposite that occupied by the enemy. A
triple line of sentinels guard the entire north-eastern front
night and day ; and if the men do anything like their duty,
the Russians won't get into Erzeroum as they did into Kars.
I know the Commander-in-Chief counts much on the weather,
and hopes that it will oblige the enemy to draw down into
the plain to the rear towards Hassan Kale. Yet, I can never
bring myself to believe that the Russian generals will abandon
hardly-won positions which Turkish reinforcements would
render impregnable next spring. If an immediate attempt
be not made in one form or another against the town, either
in the form of an assault or an investment, it may be that
the enemy will withdraw to milder quarters hard by, leaving
only an often-relieved garrison in the bleak pass. In the case
of an investment, the bulk of the hostile army could winter
on the road to Trebizond just as warmly as in the other
direction. Should they adopt the first idea, and partially
retire, leaving only a garrison in the pass, it may be that by
a desperate sortie the Turks will try to regain their lost
laurels, and re-occupy the all-important defile — after Kars
the gate of Armenia. I speak now of possibilities and prob
abilities ; as regards actual certainty, I am probably as well-
informed as the Commander-in-Chief himself.
Whatever be the result, the Ottoman Government has taken
measures eminently calculated for the best, whichever way
things may turn. Want of money and general necessity
hinted at an advanced collection of imposts in money and
kind — a present advantage, and a sore blow to the foe in case
of his successfully occupying Armenia. The Turkish autho
rities have required, and received in advance, the contribu
tions of the province up to the year 1880 ; a proceeding, some
will say, justified by the circumstances. That may be ; I
merely chronicle the event.
While awaiting the grave circumstances which any moment

128 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
may produce, perhaps a description of an Armenian village,
far away from the limits of European civilization, may be
acceptable. I rode from Erzeroum to Illidge in two hours.'
I crossed a wide bleak plain, blinding white with newly-fallen
snow. At Guez, an intermediate village, I drew up to have
a cup of coffee. My semi-military garb created a certain
amount of suspicion. "Who knows," thought the villagers,
" but this is only an excuse to enter an oda, and once there,
he is quartered on us.'' Such, it seems, is their experience of
Ottoman officers. However, my horses standing unbridled
and unpacked at the door somewhat re-assured them, and for
a backsheesh I got a couple of cups of unsugared coffee. A
few words of question and answer. " Have the Russian
patrols been here ? " " No, pacha," was the reply. This I
knew to be untrue, but in my hypothetic character these
.poor Armenians were not supposed to speak the absolute
truth. From certain information, I knew that the Cossacks
had been there but two evenings previously to requisition hay
and oats. I went on.
An expanse of marshy ground, and a bridge which at a distance
looked like that of a railway. Then came this village, Illidge.
It looks like a place that once was populous, as the sense goes
here. Now there are empty houses and deserted — thorough
fares, I suppose I must say. Streets they never could be
called even in the best of times. Here and there a few sus
picious-looking ducks and hens wandered, and occasionally an
inhabitant peered cautiously round the angle of a snow-heaped
dwelling. The newly-arrived horsemen might be Cossacks,
or, worse still, the Karapabaks of Muhir Ali. A short
parley, and the bolder of the inhabitants who ventured forth
were convinced that we were neither one nor the other. As a
result we were shown to the house of the chief man of the
place, an unhappy individual, who, be the new-comers
Christians or Mussulmans, is responsible for everything.
Then we entered the chief man's house. It was a low, long
building, the walls seven feet high, of rough stone rudely
piled. The flat earth roof was thickly covered with snow. A
long passage led to a stable, occupied by half a dozen cows,
buffalo calves, and horses. An odour of ammonia exhaled

AN ARMENIAN VILLAGE. 129
from the place. In one corner, and separated only by a low,
wooden partition, was the oda, the " guest chamber." A kind
of pathway ran up its midst conducting to a stove-like fire
place, where cattle droppings, kneaded with earth, smouldered
dimly. On either side the pathway were bands of wood,
indicating the divans, where a kind of rush matting covered
the beaten earth up to the rough wall. A mattress, two
pillows, and a stuffed cotton quilt were luxuries accorded to
the stranger guest. The level of the floors being considerably
below that of the ground outside, and the roof of rough beams
arched slightly, the chamber had a much larger and airier
appearance than could be expected within the squat semi-
subterranean building one looked at from the outside. In a
kind of low gable opposite the fireplace, a single window eight
inches square, and closed with white greased paper, admitted
a dim light. Coming in from the blinding glare of the snowy-
plain, it was like entering a coal-cellar. At one's elbow, shut
off only by a partition eighteen inches high, cows and calves
munched their chopped straw. To inhabit the oda of an
Armenian peasant's house is literally to inhabit a stable. All
the sights, sounds, and odours of a rude, close stable are pal
pable to a degree far from pleasant. From the space outside
the stable door ran long corridors of unplastered, uncemented
rubble masonry, leading to the different chambers. The oda
of the female portion of the family was a great square
chamber, thirty feet either way, roofed with the peculiar kind
of cupola common in these countries. Great beams cross
diagonally above the corners, others cross these in an opposite
sense, each tier advancing more than that below it over the
centre of the room, till after six or seven tiers, a dome is
formed, having in its summit a square opening, through which
come air and light. There are a great many other chambers,
devoted to storing grain, chopped straw, and hay, and agri
cultural implements. These houses are admirably adapted to
the extremes of temperature of this climate. In summer the
thick walls and earth-covered roofs keep the rooms compara
tively cool ; and when, as now, the cold is almost insupport
able outside, the oda, under the joint influence of dung-fire
VOL. II. K

130 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and the animals collected alongside, is quite warm. Owing -
to this mild temperature within the chambers, even now the
stray flies are to be seen ; and, I am sorry to add, other more
objectionable specimens of the insect creation. All night long
one is disturbed by the groaning and complaining of the
neighbouring quadrupeds ; and long ere dawn shows faintly
athwart the paper square in the gable, the plaintive lowing of <
hungry calves, and the angry cries of quarrelsome horses
break one's rest. Even now, at ten at night, various animals
wander incontinently to and fro ; and not five minutes ago I
was obliged to repel by physical force an incursion on the
part of a large black ass, who walked solemnly in with a view
of partaking of a bag of oats, which constitutes my im
promptu writing-table. A calf is munching the end of a rush
mat on which I sit, and I am obliged to keep an eye on a
large black rat, who has serious designs on a cold fowl in the
corner. At meal-times I am subjected to a new species of
mortification. The elders of the village, accompanied by a
large following, sit or stand outside the low railing at the
end of the oda, and gaze upon my proceedings with the
absorbed interest of a rustic witnessing for the first time
some soul-stirring drama.
As these people speak but little Turkish, and that with Armenian
idiom, our conversation is necessarily limited. The little
Turkish I know myself is classical beside that of these
people. I have an old servant named Ivan — a Russian
taken prisoner at Kars in 1854, who has since dwelt at
Erzeroum. During all this long time he has picked up hut
few words of Turkish, and I believe less of Armenian. Two
days ago I sent him with letters and telegrams to Erzeroum,
On his return he commissioned one of my usual crowd of
lookers-on to communicate to me the result of his mission, i
Taking off his slippers, a tall, white-bearded old man advanced
into the chamber. During some minutes he harangued me
with considerable fluency. At the end of his address, I
gathered that Erzeroum was on fire in several places ; that a,
multitude of the inhabitants were flying in our direction;
and that for one reason or the other one side of the house had

AN ARMENIAN SPA. 131
fallen down. Subsequently I became aware that he wished
to convey to me that Ivan informed him my telegram had
gone off at once, and that my letters would be forwarded to
me ! Except to the polyglot linguist, this mingled dialect of
Armenian, Turkish, Persian, and Kurd is not an agreeable
language to converse in.
IlUdge itself is a straggling village of some 300 houses
such as I have described, and in ordinary times contains
a population of over 1,500 inhabitants, the great majority
Christian. A large and, for such a place, respectable
looking church rises in its midst. It has a stable-like
cafe, where no coffee is to be had, and half a dozen
miserable shops or booths, only two of which are now open.
From Illidge, as from every other place in the neighbourhood,
all that were rich enough to do so, fled to Erzingan and
Trebizond. It is now as dreary looking a place as could well
be imagined. In peace times it is much resorted to by the
people of Erzeroum and other neighbouring towns on account
of its magnificent hot mineral springs. I visited one of these
yesterday. A low circular building with domed roof covers
a circular basin some 30 feet in diameter, hewn in a
yellowish kind of rock something like fine grained Oolitic
limestone. It is 5 feet deep and full to the brim with
clear water, having a temperature of about 90 degrees
Fahrenheit. This water gushes unceasingly from the centre
of the floor of the basin, and flows away by a sluice into the
neighbouring river, the Illidge Su, which here expands into
a pretty extensive lake. The flow of water is copious and
continuous at all seasons, and accompanied by a large amount
of carbonic acid gas, which causes the water to effervesce
briskly, especially at two points towards the centre. Standing
at the edge and seeing the bubbling water and dense steam"
clouds rising from its surface, one would have said it was a
huge seething cauldron. An opening in the centre of the
dome, almost equal to the width of the basin, admits light.
A stone platform 10 feet wide surrounds the basin, and adjoin
ing the wall is a rough wooden divan for the accommodation
of the bathers. Fee for admission there is none, nor, indeed,
k 2

132 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
is there any guardian whatever. It is open to all comers.
In its immediate vicinity the water pools are warm, and
effervesce in the same manner as those of the basin. An
immense thermal establishment might be erected over these
sources ; very probably would be, in any other country in
the world. To judge by the taste, the water seems strongly
impregnated with carbonate of iron. Another similar estab
lishment exists close by, from which the water escapes with
the velocity and quantity of an ordinary mill-race. Such is
a description of my present abiding-place. With the excep
tion of the hot springs, it is that of some dozen villages
which dot the plain of Erzeroum on this side.
Two days ago our tranquillity was broken by the arrival of
three battalions from Trebizond. They have been distributed
among the villages between this and the mouth of the Olti
Valley, and, in conjunction with the irregular cavalry of
Muhir Ali, watch the road by which Erzeroum could be
turned, and secure as well the Trebizond road against raids
of the enemy's cavalry. Thus one more precaution is added ;
to those already taken to secure our vulnerable point— the
line of ramparts to the north of the city running generally '
at right angles to the Trebizond road.
It is a source of wonder to every one that the Russians havej
not ere this followed up their first two attacks by a third'
more serious and better supported. Had they on the first!
night, the 9tk-10th November, acted as they possibly may in
the course of a very brief space of time, the town would
have been theirs with little comparative loss. As it is, while
a serious assault from many different points is almost sure to
succeed, still, now that Mukhtar Pacha's army has had time:
to recover from the fatigues and demoralisation of the late
fighting, and that the defence is organized, we can look
forward to a bloody struggle in case of direct assault. One
thing is certain— the Russians cannot possibly dream of
remaining till next spring in their present chilly quarters,;
It would cost them almost as many men as an assault.
Peasants who came in some days ago from the Russian lines-
for, strange to say, the country people are allowed to circulate.

THE SICK AND WOUNDED FROM KARS. 133
freely from one side to the other — state that the Turkish
sick and wounded from Kars are on their way hither, to
the number of 6,000. There is nothing incredible in this
figure. When I retired from Kars with the Marshal and the
remnant of the army on the 17th of October the chief of
the medical department informed me that there were 4,500
sick and wounded in the hospitals. Though many of these
must have succumbed naturally, cr through the privations
of the siege, the diminution in number must have been far
more than compensated by the victims of the bombardment
and the terrible explosion of the powder magazine. Then,
again, there were the men hors de combat after the assault of
the 19th of November ; so that, considering the circumstances,
I think the number stated, if anything, under the real amount.
What seems incredible is, that the Russians should attempt
to move such a large number of sick and wounded, at such a
season, over such roads.

134 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
CHAPTER V.
THE FALL OF PLEVNA.
The Operations in Bulgaria. — Attacks on the Army of the Lom. — Capture of
Elena by Suleiman Pacha.— Recapture by trie Russians and Retreat of tie
Turks.— State of Affairs before Plevna. — Condition of Osman Pacha's
Army.— The Situation early in December. — Reports of Prisoners.— Russian
Reinforcements. — Osman Pacha's Preparations for a Sortie. —The Night
Before. — A Spy. — Abandonment of Turkish Positions. — General Skobeleff's!
Advance. — A Panorama of the Battle. — The First Circle Broken. — The Srena-I
diers in Action. — The Sortie Virtually Repulsed. — Renewed Struggles.— Des
perate Fighting. — Plevna in the Hands of the Russians. — The White Flag.—
Negotiations for a Capitulation. — On the Bridge. — Aspect of the Battlefield.—
Interview with Tefik Bey. — Osman Pacha Wounded. — Conference between
Ganetsky, Strukoff, and Osman Pacha. — Unconditional Surrender of tie
Turkish Army. — Arrival of the Grand Duke Nicholas with his Staff-
Entry into Plevna. — Meeting between Osman Pacha, the Grand Dnke, and
Prince Charles. — Osman Pacha's Place in History. — Appearance of the
Turkish Troops. — Osman's Mode of Living. — Inside Plevna. — Tefik Bey and
General Skobeleff Dine and Compare Notes. — Traces of the Contest-
Observations on the Policy of the Defence. — Review of Russian Troops
on the Battlefield of Plevna by the Emperor, the Grand Duke and Prime
Charles.— Departure of Reinforcements for the Army of the BaUtans.-
Estimate of the Strength, and Account of the Distribution of the Militarj
Forces in European Turkey. *
Frequent contests, some of which were by no means insignifi-
cant, though none exercised any important influence on the pro.
gress of the war, took place in various parts of Bulgaria during
the latter part of the month of November. The outposts of thi
army under the command of the Czarewitch were contini
molested, but, after some fighting, more or less severe, th(
arrival of Russian reinforcements generally gave the sij
for the retreat of the Turks. On the 5th of December
forces under Suleiman Pacha, forming part of the Army ol
Shumla, advanced as far as Metchka, the Russians fallia
back before them : subsequently the latter were reinforced
and a sharp engagement ensued near Metchka and Trestinel

OPERATIONS IN BULGARIA. 135
south of Pyrgos, on the Lower Lom. In this engagement,
which lasted for five hours, the Turks suffered severely from
adopting the system that had so often proved disastrous to
their opponents. Advancing across the open to assail the
Russians, who were under the cover of their entrenchments,
the Turkish troops sustained heavy losses, and no less than
two thousand five hundred bodies were stated to have been
picked up by the Russians, at the close of the day, in front of
their positions. Such disasters afforded a striking evidence of
the reckless tactics of Suleiman Pacha, which had cost that
commander so dearly during the protracted struggle in the
Shipka Pass ; for there is no reason to doubt that the descrip
tion of the affair, as a reconnaissance, in the Turkish official
despatches, correctly indicate its merely tentative character.
These operations, at all events, produced no result, unless it
were to divert attention from other points, or to induce the
Russians to send a part of the troops, which were continually
crossing the Danube, to reinforce the Army of the Czarewitch
instead of the army before Plevna, or that under General
Gourko in the Balkans.
On the left wing of Suleiman Pacha's Army, however,
a more important movement soon declared itself. On the
4th of December a considerable Turkish force attacked and
captured the important strategic position of Elena, on the
road from the Balkan Passes east of Tirnova to that town.
During eight hours' fighting, the Russians, under the com
mand of Prince Mirsky, suffered heavy losses, and were
at length compelled to fall back upon Jacowicka, a fortified
position at the entrance to a gorge, where, on the follow
ing day, their assailants again attacked them with vigour,
but without success. According to Turkish accounts, three
hundred Russians were taken prisoners on this occasion,
besides the capture of eleven guns, twenty ammunition
waggons, and a quantity of arms. For a time, this movement

136 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
wore the aspect of a formidable attempt to do something for.
the relief of Plevna ; but the stand made at Jacowicka having
" afforded time for- the arrival of strong reinforcements, the tide
soon turned. According to a Russian despatch, Suleiman
Pacha had at this time ten thousand men stationed oppo
site Slataritza, and thirty thousand opposite Jacowicka,
But only two days after the capture of Elena the right
Turkish column was driven from the former place, and com-
pelled to retreat towards Prebova; and, subsequently, Elena
fell once more into the hands of the Russians, having been set
a-fire and evacuated by Suleiman Pacha. These and some
aimless and disastrous attacks, renewed by the right wing of
Suleiman Pacha's army, upon the positions of the Czarewitch
on the Lower Lom, virtually brought to a close the offensive
operations of the Army of Shumla, the progress of events
afterwards compelling its commander to concentrate his forces
for the defence of the Rustchuk, Rasgrad, and Shumla line.
Thus, one by one, the hopes of the gallant defenders of
Plevna were extinguished. In the south-east, the capture of
the Pravca Pass by General Gourko had effectually destroyed'
the plans of the commander of that Army of Relief on which,
at Constantinople, such confident expectations had been based,
and, as we have seen, the desperate attempt of the Army of
Shumla to advance by breaking through the lines of the Army
of the Lom, had no less signally failed. At Plevna, vigorous
sorties, chiefly against General Skobeleff's positions, continued
to furnish employment for the troops under that distinguished
commander, while the difficulty of finding shelter from the
bullets of the Turks, finally compelled him to shift his head
quarters to Uzendol, three-quarters of a mile from his former
quarters at Brestovec. The question, however, had now resolved
itself simply into that of how long Osman Pacha could hold
out upon his accumulated stores ; and when he would be com
pelled to make that attempt to "break through," which,

PRIVATIONS IN PLEVNA. 137
despite its desperate and even hopeless character, few doubted
would furnish the final incident of his memorable defence.
With regard to these points, some uncertainty still prevailed.
But the plans of Osman Pacha were soon removed from the
region of speculation.
Nearly four months had now elapsed since the 18th of July,
when General Schilder-Schuldner made the first attempt to
take Plevna. He was permitted to enter, but when his men
were beginning to make themselves at home, they were fired
upon from windows and roofs of houses and suffered enormous
loss. Two days after, the attack was renewed and repulsed
with heavy loss. On the 30th of August, General Krudener
and Prince Schahof sky made a great attack upon the place, and
sustained a great defeat. A third attack was made under the
eye of the Emperor on the 11th of September, and completely
failed. Finally, Plevna succumbed rather to famine than to
the sword.
The following letters afford particulars of the condition of
affairs before Plevna on the eve of the crowning event of
the sortie and the surrender : —
f Uzendol, Loftcha Road, December 2nd. — The Russian leaders
have no middle course- They dared in September to
attack Osman with 65,000 men. They do not dare to
attack him now with 120,000, although he is considerably
weaker than he was then. They do not even dare to detach
General Gourko with a force to carry out another important
movement, and they are allowing Osman, with probably less
than 50,000 men, to neutralize a force nearly three times
that number, while the fine season which has favoured them
in the most extraordinary manner is passing rapidly away.
Evidently, if they erred on the side of rashness in September,
they are erring on the side of timidity now.
The weather continues remarkably fine. Since the severe
storm on November the 27th there has been but one slight
shower. The roads all about Plevna are excellent, but down

138 WAR CORRESPONDENCE,
near the Danube they are very bad. The ground here is
very wet, the nights are cool, and the water freezes, but thaws
a few minutes after sunrise.
A correspondent, writing from Turna Margnerelle, on the 3rd
of December, shows the difficulty under which outsiders at
that date laboured of obtaining accurate information regardmg
Osman Pacha's chances of holding out. It will also be seen how
constantly the strength of the Russian forces was increasing :—
§ The weakest part of the Russian and Roumanian lines at Plevna
is defended by no less than sixty-two guns, the fire of which can
be concentrated on any spot the Turks may choose for a sortie ;
besides this, there is a musketry fire that can only be called
murderous. During any night attack, the allied troops have
orders to fire horizontally, raser la terre, to the ground, and
owing to the configuration of the hills, which rise at about
the same gradient throughout, this, if carried out, will be
most deadly. With regard to the provision's, or rather the
want of them, in Plevna, a subject about which everybody
speaks most and knows least, and which necessarily is only a
matter for conjecture, I was taken to see a Turkish non
commissioned officer on Saturday, the 1st of December, who
was captured by the Roumanians during the previous night,
whilst trying to stalk a Roumanian horse. He was shown
me by a Roumanian officer of the Staff, as a proof of the
starving condition the Turks were in. What I saw was
a good-looking, thin, wiry man, about 5 feet 9 inches :
his clothes torn, and of much too light material for this time
of year ; altogether, what I should call a man in hard-training
— fit, in racing terms, to " run for his life," and showing not
a bit more signs of wear and tear about him than five or six
weeks of hard campaigning would warrant.
On Sunday, the 2nd, I saw here in Turna Margnerelle thirty-
seven prisoners taken at Plevna by the Roumanians whilst
cutting wood outside the Turkish works. I had every
opportunity of looking at them as they were being photo
graphed, and were carefully brought out one by one and
examined, with a view of getting the worst points of the

CONDITION OF PRISONERS. 139
Turks in the best position of the photographs. Among them
were two men, both old, wanting in physique, utterly worn
out, and suffering, I think, from acute dysentery, their clothes
in rags, feet swathed in dirty bandages, and, as they stood
ankle-deep in the foul mud, leaning their weary weight against
the backs of their stronger comrades who stood in front of
them, one's heart sickened at what is truly the saddest picture
I have seen of the war. Turning from these to the other
side of the group, stands prominent an unmistakable Punjabi,
tall, straight as a dart, clean, a soldier every inch, and healthy
and well fed to boot. Next to him, scarcely reaching his
shoulders, is a light infantry sergeant, the large orange
coloured chevrons standing out clean on his arm, his clothes
trim, the green braid on his jacket being even fit for parade,
his sharp-cut features showing intelligence and health. I
have given the best and worst of the thirty-seven ; of the
rest, some five or six were lame, they had marched thirty-two
miles in two days, over very bad roads, the first day in heavy
rain ; some two or three were sick, and some tired, but in no
case were there the tell-tale lines in the hands and neck
which I have learnt in my Indian experience so surely denote
want of food. Their own account is that bread is growing-
scarce in Plevna, only one piece being given to each soldier
a day, that meat was plentiful, but no wood to cook it with.
Hence they were taken prisoners in trying to procure some.
All this must be taken with the greatest caution, as, like true
Orientals, a Turk quickly divines what his questioner wishes
him to say, and as quickly says it with such an air of perfect
truth that it is hard to disbelieve even when you know this
Eastern peculiarity of his.
The opinion that, at the fall of Plevna, Osman Pacha will be
taken prisoner with his whole army, is daily growing more
general. That he can break through the Russian and
Roumanian works seems almost impossible. Day by day
have they been strengthened till, at their weakest spot, sixty-
two cannon sweep the ground. Even supposing him through
the lines of the allies, without transport, without cavalry,
with his troops necessarily disorganized by the performance
of such a splendid feat of arms, he would be impeded by

140 WAR correspondence!
Russian cavalry and horse artillery till, like the French at
Sedan, the moment would come when he could fight no more.
As I write, as if to point the argument, the advance guard of
what I am told, on the authority of the sub-prefect here, is
a Russian army corps 40,000 strong, principally cavalry
and artillery, is now passing my window, first a regiment of
Cossacks, then two regiments of dragoons, then twelve
light field guns, in all about 2,000 men well horsed, well
turned out, and fine big fellows. To-night they sleep at
Nicopolis. To-morrow, 2,000 more are added to the 120,000
Russians already round Plevna.
The most important in its consequences of all the incidents
of the war, was now at hand. The little town which the skill
and foresight and undaunted energy of Osman Pacha had con
verted into a stronghold, capable, month after month, of defying
the inexhaustible valour and perseverance of the Russian
armies, was at last about to fall, with its gallant remnant of
defenders, into the hands of its enemy. Fortunately the
incidents of this memorable historical occurrence were destined
to be recorded by an eye-witness, experienced in observing and
appreciating military events, and capable of bringing them
before the eye of the reader in simple but powerful words.
Scarcely had intelligence of the Fall of Plivna reached the
outside world, when the subjoined copious narratives of the
occurrences of the 10th and 11th of December, transmitted
from beginning to end by the wires of the electric telegraph,
were on their way to London.
f Plevna, December 10th— Night.— The Russians knew on Fri
day night that Osman Pacha was preparing for a sortie, and
on their part made every preparation to receive him. The
trenches were kept full of troops day and night, division and
regimental commanders were advised to be on the alert, and
all the posts were doubled and trebled. These measures
were taken on Friday night, but Saturday passed without
any movement being discernible among the Turks. Osman

A RIDE ROUND THE LINES. , 141
Pacha had, however, resolved upon a final effort to break the
coils that were crushing him.
Sunday passed in the same way. The Russians were anxiously
on the watch with the usual amount of artillery fire, to which
the Turks have not replied for a long time. For the last
three or four days the weather had been damp and cold, with
heavy broken clouds threatening rain, and about noon on
Sunday the clouds thickened, and the dark masses discharged
themselves in the first snowstorm of the season. By five
o'clock the ground was quite white, and the appearance of
the country had completely changed.
I rode around the lines between the hours of three and five
from Grivica, through Radisovo, to Brestovec, on the Loft
cha road. The sky was dark and lowering, but the atmos
phere white with thickly-falling snow, through which could
be caught glimpses of Plevna, with many little columns of
blue smoke rising over it, telling of cooking dinners, and
giving it a warm, cosy look, much unlike that of a belea
guered city. The huts of the Russian soldiers were soon
white, the soldiers themselves going about joyously, some
cooking their dinners, others gathered in groups, singing at
the top of their voices a welcome apparently to the first
snowfall. Perhaps it reminded them of their far-away homes.
There the snow is long since many feet deep. Now and then
the boom of a gun, muffled and indistinct like a low growl,
broke the stillness as it came through the snow-laden air.
I crossed the ravine at the foot of the Green Hill, where Sko
beleff has built an excellent plank bridge, connecting his
lines with Zotoff's and Radisovo, and proceeded up the little
lateral ravine, along which a good artillery road has been
constructed. I soon found myself on the Loftcha road, near
Brestovec, in the midst of a violent gust of snow and wind.
It was now quite dark. The lights of Brestovec were barely
discernible through the gloom, and I had considerable diffi
culty in finding my way through the storm and the obscurity
to Uzendol, Skobeleff's headquarters. Here I found every
body keenly on the alert.
A spy had just come in with the news that Osman had issued
three days' rations to the troops, one hundred and fifty

142 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
cartridges, a new pair of sandals to each man, and that, to all
appearances, the concentration would begin at once. A
curious detail which he cited was that each soldier received
a small portion of oil for keeping his gun in order.
At ten o'clock another spy came in, who reported that Osman
was concentrating near the bridge over the Vid. The spy
had come direct from Plevna, and having given this infor
mation he disappeared again in the darkness. A few minutes
later there was a telegram stating that from the other side
a great many lights were seen moving about in Plevna, an
unusual thing. Evidently there was some movement on
foot, and the spies were right.
The night wore slowly away. The snowstorm ceased, and was
followed by dark clouds scudding swiftly across the sky, with
now and then a blast of sleet. At three o'clock another spy
brought news that the men of Skobeleff's command had a
position on the side of the Green Hill, and that the Krishine
redoubts were being abandoned. He was very sure, he said,
that all the positions along our side would shortly be
abandoned. Would he go along and lead the way into the
Krishine redoubts at the risk of being bayoneted if his
words should not prove true ? Yes, he would, and orders
were given by Skobeleff for the troops to begin to move
cautiously forward, and feel their way with care. This was
done, and the positions were taken.
At last now it was certain that the Turks were moving, and
that the final decisive moment had come. Skobeleff ordered
the captured positions to be instantly placed in a state of
defence, in case the Turks, repulsed and not yet ready to
surrender, should attempt to re-capture them. The grey
light of morning came. It was cloudy, and threatened
more snow. Suddenly there was the booming of thirty or
forty guns speaking almost together, followed instantly by
that steady, crashing roll we have learned to know so well.
The battle had begun. The giant, after defending himself
four months, hurling thunderbolt after thunderbolt upon
his enemies, was now struggling through the meshes he
had allowed to be thrown around him, and was in his turn
attacking the trenches and earthworks which he had taught

THE ATTEMPT TO " BREAK THROUGH." 143
his enemies so well how to defend. We mounted our
horses and rode towards the battle. It was in the direc
tion of the bridge over the Vid, on the Sofia road, and
half an hour's ride brought us in sight of the conflict.
A terrible and sublime spectacle presented itself to our view.
The country behind Plevna is a wide open plain, into which
the gorge leading up to Plevna opens out like a tunnel.
The plain is bounded on the Plevna side by steep rocky
bluffs, or cliffs, along whose foot flows the Vid. From
these cliffs, for a distance of two miles, burst here and there,
in quick, irregular succession, angry spurts of flame, that
flashed and disappeared and flashed out again. It was the
artillery fire of the Turks and Russians, which, from our
point of view, appeared intermingled. The smoke, running
round in a circle towards the Vid, rose against the heavy
clouds that hung right up on the horizon, while low on the
ground burst forth continuous balls of flame that rent the
blackness of the clouds like flashes of lightning. Through
the covering of smoke could be seen angry spits of
fire thick as fireflies on a tropical night. Now and then,
through an irregular curving stream of fire we had indis
tinct glimpses of bodies of men hurrying to and fro, horses,
cattle, carriages running across the plain, and, above all, the
infernal crashing roll of the infantry fire, and the deep
booming of more than a hundred guns.
This is what had happened :
Osman Pacha had during the night abandoned all his positions
from Grivica to the Green Hill, and concentrated the greater
part of his army across the Vid, over which he passed on
two bridges, one the old, and the other the new one lately
constructed. He took part of his artillery, some three
batteries, and a train of about five or six hundred carriages
drawn by bullocks. He succeeded in getting his army, the
artillery, and part of the train over by daybreak. The
Russians say that to have started with so large a train is a
proof that he was deceived with regard to the number of the
Russian forces, and that he believed the Russian line, owing
to the absence of General Gourko, was very weak on the
Sofia road, and thought another road along the Vid was

144 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
virtually open. It does not seem possible that he could have
been so badly informed, and I am inclined to think the train
was taken to serve a special purpose in the fight. Indeed,
the first thing the Russians perceived when daylight broke
was a line of waggons drawn by bullocks, advancing upon
them in close order across the plain. The smooth open level
offered every facility for such a manoeuvre. The Turks were
behind these waggons, which, piled full of baggage and
effects of various kinds, afforded very fair protection from
bullets.
The attack was directed against the positions held by the
Grenadiers, north of the Sofia road, whose lines extended
from the road to a point opposite Opanes, where they were
joined by the Roumanian curving line through Susurla. It
is said the attack was made with 20,000 men, but I
doubt this, as there was really not room for so many to
deploy unless they had descended from the heights of Opanes,
and taken the Roumanian positions, and I have not heard
that they did this. Nor did they even attack the Russian
positions south of the road, as they would probably have
done had they attacked in such force. At any rate, the
attack was a most brilliant and daring one.
The Turks advanced as far as they could under cover of their
waggons, while the Russians poured in a terrible fire on them
from their Berdan breechloaders, scarcely less destructive
than the Peabody, and opened on the advancing line with
shell and shrapnel. The Turks then did a splendid piece of
bravery, only equalled by Skobeleff's capture of the two
famous redoubts. Probably finding their cover beginning
to fail them, owing to the cattle being killed get t ing
frightened and running away, they dashed forward with a
shout upon the line of trenches held by the Sibrersky or
Siberian Regiment, swept over them like a tornado, poured
into the battery, bayoneted the artillerymen, officers and
men, who, with desperate heroism, stood to their pieces to
nearly a man, and seized the whole battery. The Sibrersky
Regiment had been overthrown and nearly annihilated. The
Turks had broken the first circle that held them in. Had
they gone on they would have found two more ; but they did

THE SORTIE REPULSED. 145
not have time to go on. The Russians rallied almost imme
diately.
General Strukoff, of the Emperor's staff, brought up the first
brigade of Grenadiers, who, led by their general — I forget
his name, but the Russians will remember it — flung them
selves on the Turks with fury. A hand-to-hand fight
ensued, man to man, bayonet to bayonet, which is said to
have lasted several minutes, for the Turks clung to the
captured guns with dogged obstinacy. They seem to have
forgotten in the fury of battle that they had come out to
escape from Plevna, and not to take and hold a battery, and
they held on to the guns with almost the same desperation
which the Russian dead around them had shown a few
minutes before. Nearly all the Turks in the battle were
killed. Those in the flanking trenches open to the Russian
fire had, of course, very little shelter, and were soon over
powered, and began a retreat which, under the murderous
fire sent after them, instantly became a flight. Some took
shelter behind the broken waggons, and returned the fire
for a time, but the majority made for the deep banks of the
Vid, where they found ample shelter from the Russian shells
and bullets. They formed here behind the banks, and
instantly began to return the Russian fire.
It was now about half-past eight, and the Turkish sortie was
virtually repulsed, but the battle raged for four hours longer.
The losses inflicted from this time forward were not great on
either side, for both armies were under cover. The Turks
were evidently apprehensive that the Russians would charge
and drive them back in amass into the gorge. The Russians
were resolved to prevent another sortie, and so both sides
kept it up. Indeed, there seemed at first every probability
that the Turks would try it again, though it was evident to
any one who knew the strength of the Russian lines and had
seen this affair, that escape was hopeless from the first, even
though Osman Pacha had had twice the number of men.
For four hours the storm of lead swept on, as 100 guns sent
forth flame and smoke and iron. During all this time we
were in momentary expectation of seeing one side or the
other rush to the charge. We could hardly yet realize that
VOL. II. L

146 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
this was to be the last fight we should ever see around
Plevna, and that when the guns ceased firing it was the last
time we should hear them here. It was a strangely
impressive spectacle. Behind us, the plain, stretching
away to the horizon, dark and sombre, under the
dull lead-coloured clouds of the black November day.
Before us, the gorge leading up to Plevna, flanked on
either side by steep high cliffs, and between us and them
the smoke, and roar, and fire of battle filling the air with
its mighty thunder, a battle on which hung the fate, not
of Plevna, for the long-beleaguered town was already
in the hands of the Russians, but of Osman Pacha and
his army.
About twelve o'clock the firing began to diminish on both sides,
as if by mutual agreement. Then it stopped entirely. The
rolling crash of the infantry and the deep-toned bellowing of
the artillery were heard no more. The smoke lifted, and
there was silence — a silence that will not be broken here for
many a long year, perhaps never again, by the sounds of
battle. |
The firing had not ceased more than half an hour when a white
flag was seen waving from the road leading around the cliffs
beyond the bridge. Plevna had fallen, and Osman Pacha
was going to surrender.
A long, loud shout went up from the Russian army when the
white flag was seen, and its significance was understood— a
joyous shout that swept over that dreary plain, and was '
echoed back sonorously by the sullen, rugged cliffs overhang
ing the scene. The thrill of gladness in the shout showed '
how deeply the Russian soldiers had dreaded the long,;
weary waiting through the winter months amid snow and
mud round this impregnable stronghold. It was clear that
a load had been lifted from every heart.
A moment later, a Turkish officer was seen riding over the"1
bridge with a white flag in his hand. He rode forward to
General Ganetsky, in command of the Grenadiers, halted a
moment, and then rode back. As it turned out, he was an
officer of inferior rank, and returned because General Ganet
sky instructed him to send an officer with the rank of

THE PARLEY ON THE BRIDGE. 147
to negotiate the terms of capitulation. Then thirty or forty
of us, headed by General Skobeleff, who had been this
morning placed on the Sofia road, rode down the road
towards the bridge, within point-blank range of the Turkish
rifles, if the Turkish soldiers grouped in masses on the road
behind the bridge on the cliffs overlooking the Vid had
chosen to open on us. About fifty yards from the bridge,
and seventy -five from some masses of Turks on the other
side, we halted. General Skobeleff and two or three other
officers waved white handkerchiefs. This signal of amity
was answered by the waving of a piece of white muslin,
about two yards square, attached to a flag- staff. Then two
horsemen came forward, each carrying a white flag. They
rode across the bridge and approached us. There was a
moment's conversation with Skobeleff's interpreter, and then
it was announced that Osman himself was coming out, and
the two horsemen galloped back.
" Osman himself coming out ! " exclaimed all of us with sur
prise. This was indeed an unlooked-for incident.
At any rate we will give him a respectful reception," ex
claimed one Russian officer, in the gallant spirit of true
chivalry.
That we will," said another. " We must all salute him, and
the soldiers must present arms."
He is certainly a great soldier," exclaimed another, " and he
has made an heroic defence."
He is the greatest general of the age," said General Skobeleff,
"for he has saved the honour of his country. I will proffer
him my hand and tell him so."
Jl were unanimous in his praise, and the butcheries of Russian
wounded committed by the Turkish army of Plevna were
forgotten.
.11 around me the ground was covered with grim relics of
battle. Here and there the earth was uptorn by the explo
sion of shells. Near me lay a horse groaning and struggling
in death. Close by, an ox, silently bleeding to death ; his
great, round, patient eyes looking mournfully at us. Just
before me was a cart with a dead horse lying in yoke as he
had fallen, and a Turkish soldier lying alongside whose head
L 2

148 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
had been carried away. Another man was lying under the
waggon, and aroundw ere four wounded men lying, gazing
up at the murky sky, or covered up with the hood of their
ragged grey overcoat drawn over their faces. Not one of
them uttered a sound. They lay there and bore their sufferings
with a calm stolid fortitude which brought tears to my eyes.
Just behind the waggon the ground was ripped to pieces by shell-
fire, telling how these unfortunates had met their fate. The ,
road and its edges were dotted here and there with dead and
wounded Turkish soldiers, oxen, horses, and shattered carts,
and a few hundred yards north of the road, the ground over
which Osman Pacha's sallying column had made that heroic
charge was literally covered with dead and wounded. Russian
doctors were already going about on the field looking after
the wounded, and giving them temporary dressing, while
waiting for the ambulances to come up.
All these things I observed during the pause, which was broken
at last by shouts of " There he is ! He is coming ! " and I
rode forward again to the point of main interest. Two
horsemen were again approaching with a white flag, the
bearer of which was apparently merely a common soldier,
He wore a fez, a long dirty brown cloak, and very ragged
footgear. The other horseman wore a bright red fez, which
set off the officer's blue cloak. He was clean and natty, and
had on fresh gloves. He was comparatively young, with a
round, rosy face, clean shaved, light moustache, straight
nose, and blue eyes. He did not seem over thirty-five years
old.
" This cannot be Osman Pasha," was the general exclamationj
In fact it was not he, but Tefik Bey, his chief of staff. Was
it possible that this boyish-looking face belonged to Osman's
right-hand man, who must have played so great a part in the
organization and maintenance of Osman's mighty defence ?
It seemed strange, but it was true. The Turks have the merit
at least of not being afraid of young men. I saw no tottering
grey -bearded officers in this captive host. Every one on our
side saluted as Tefik Bey rode up. He halted for a moment
and was silent. He then spoke in French with good accent,
but slowly, as if choosing his words.

OSMAN WOUNDED. 149
He said " Osman Pacha " — then stopped fully ten seconds before
he proceeded — "is wounded."
This was the first intimation we had had of this occurrence.
All expressed their regret.
" Not severely, we all hope ? " exclaimed General Skobeleff.
" I do not know," was the answer, with a pause of a second
between every word.
" Where is his Excellency ? " was the next question.
" There," was Tefik Bey's reply, as he pointed to a small house
overlooking the road just beyond the bridge.
Then there was a pause while we scrutinized our strange visitor,
and he surveyed us, as it seemed to me, with the most perfect
calmnness, but obvious curiosity. The pause became embar
rassing. The Turk showed no hurry to speak, and the Russians
evidently felt delicacy in asking if he had come to surrender ;
besides which, there really was no officer there who had the
riarht to treat with him. The situation was critical, and if it
possessed an amusing element was also embarrassing. Both
armies were watching us, not more than 500 yards apart,
with arms in their hands, for the Russian infantry had
gradually moved down toward the bridge. Finally, General
Skobeleff stammered out, " Is there anybody you would like
to see ? — [pause] — With whom did you wish to speak ? —
Is there anything  ? — [pause] — What the devil is the
matter with the man ? Why don't he speak ? " blurted out
the General, in English, turning to me. Tefik Bey remained
impassive. I have seen more of him since, and I find he is
singularly and habitually taciturn, but I believe his extreme
taciturnity on this occasion was partly owing to emotion, in
spite of the steady, inflexible front he maintained.
General Ganetsky is in command here. He will be here pre
sently, in case you should like to speak to him," General
Skobeleff finally observed. Tefik Bey simply nodded.
Osman Ghazi has made a most brilliant and glorious defence,"
said an officer. " We esteem highly his soldierly character."
he Turk gazed steadily before him, and gave no sign that
he had heard.
We look upon him as a very great general," said another.
No answer. The Turk's eyes were bent in the direction of

150 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Sofia, as though looking for Mehemet Ali Pacha. There was
evidently no use trying to converse with this obstinately
silent man, and they gave it up. Fortunately, General
Strukoff, of the Emperor's staff, soon arrived, with powers
to treat. He asked Tefik if he had authority from Osman
Pacha to negotiate. It appeared not. I did not catch all
that was said ; but the final result was that Tefik bowed to
us and galloped away back across the bridge.
We waited awhile longer. Some of the Turks on the bridge
walked forward, and came on to us, some with guns hung
over their shoulders, others with guns in their hands. They
walk about us and examine us curiously. Thousands of
them are on the cliffs, not more than fifty yards distant, look
ing down on us with composure, all with arms in their
hands. One well-directed volley would thin our Bussian
cadres this side of the Vid very appreciably, for by this time
there must have been a hundred officers gathered here, and
the capitulation was by no means arranged as yet. On the
heights to our right we see the Russians moving up to the
redoubt on one side, while the Turks were leaving it on the
other. Presently General Ganetsky arrives, and then the
way is blocked with waggons, dead horses and oxen. The
men have all been carried off, but beside the waggon near the
bridge I see one young fellow lying wounded. He 'has laid
himself carefully down there, with his cloak wrapped around
him, and his rifle and knapsack under his head. He evidently
takes pride in his gun, a Peabody, for it is very bright and
clean, and he has put it carefully under him, so that it may
not be taken away. He did not think to part with it so soon.
He is scarcely seventeen, and the doctor who has dressed his
wounds says he will not live till night.
We thread our way cautiously over the bridge, through broken
carriages and dead bodies of horses and cattle, and find our
selves among the Turks. There are several dead lying in the
ditch beside the road. Some wounded are limping along
with us, going Heaven knows whither, and there are two
sentinels standing in a trench overlooking the river, keeping:
their watch as though they were looking for an attack at a
moment.

UNCONDITIONAL SURRENDER. 151
As we advance the crowd gets thicker. The Turkish soldiers,
with guns and bayonets in their hands, men at whom we have
been shooting, and who were shooting at us two hours ago,
gaze at us with a scowl, some with a savage expression, but
there are pleasant intelligent faces also, which look at us
with steady, clear, inquisitive eyes. General Skobeleff, sen.,
recalled an episode of the Hungarian insurrection resembling
this, where there was an armistice, and a great number of
Austrian officers crossed over the bridge to the Hungarians
as we did here, when the Hungarian commanding officer
opened his ranks and fired his cannon, charged to the muzzle
with mitraille, on the Austrians. Let us hope the two in
cidents will not resemble each other in all respects.
When the General is about a hundred yards from the bridge
the crush is so great that we can advance no further, and in
deed we do not wish, for it is in this little house overlooking
the road that Osman Ghazi lies wounded. Generals Ganetsky,
Strukoff, and some others have gone to see him. I was unable
to get in owing to the crowd.' The conference did not last
more than a few minutes.
The terms of capitulation were easily arranged. The surrender
is unconditional. Osman consented at once. If surprise be
expressed that he should have so suddenly agreed, it is only
necessary to state that he could do nothing else. In order to
attempt a sortie, he had to abandon all the positions in which
he had defied the Russians so long, and to concentrate his
army down on the Vid. These positions once lost were lost
for ever, because the Russians occupied them almost as soon
as he left them. He was down in the valley ; they on the
surrounding hills, with an army three times as large as his.
He had to surrender without delay, for they were drawing
the circle tighter every moment. NHis position was like
Napoleon III.'s at Sedan. The disparity in numbers was
greater, and he had not even the shelter of the village. So
Osman Ghazi, the Victorious, surrendered unconditionally
the gallant army with which he had held this now famous
stronghold for so long, with which he upset the whole Russian
plan of campaign, and with which he defeated, in three
pitched battles, Russia's finest armies.

¦ 152 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
We turned back and over the bridge, and Osman Pacha goV
into a carriage and drove to Plevna. The Grand Duke
Nicholas, with his staff, arrived a few minutes afterwards,
and passed the troops in review. He was received with cheers.
Halting, he spoke a few words to the Grenadiers which were
greeted with the wildest acclamation. The Grand Duke has
certainly the soldierly quality of knowing how to speak to
soldiers. Then we pass again slowly across the bridge.
The scene had now changed. No more armed Turks were to
be seen. The interview with Osman Pacha had taken place
about two o'clock. It was now three, and the Turks had all laid
down their arms. They had obeyed the injunction literally,
and each man had simply laid his rifle down in the mud
where he was standing when the order reached him. The
ground was littered with arms, the same Peabody-Martinis
that had wrought such destruction in the Russian ranks in
July and September. The road lay thick with them, and
we rode over them, trampling them under our horses' feet
and spoiling hundreds of them. Osman's army was not,
however, all armed with Peabodys. I observed some Sniders,
and a good many Krankas, evidently taken from the battle
fields of July and September.
We rode slowly on towards Plevna, with the low hills on our
right sloping up toward Krishine, and a valley on our left be
yond which rose the heights of Oopanez. Soon we came to
a mass of bullock- waggons composing the train to accompany
the intended sortie. There must have been five or six hundred,
and I observed a considerable number that seemed to belong
to private persons, for they were full of household effects, and
Turkish women and children. It made one shudder to think
of these tender little ones within the zone of that terrible
circle of fire, and I was glad to think that none of these pri
vate vehicles had probably even got so far as the bridge. One
hideously ugly old woman apostrophized ns in good round-
plain-spoken terms, and evidently regarded us with venomous
hatred. Nobody paid any attention to her clamour, but a
batch of Turkish soldiers as she raved discovered some curd
cheese in her waggon, which they seized and devoured
greedily, bringing down on themselves her railings.

INTERVIEW WITH OSMAN PACHA. 153
There was another halt in our slow onward progress, and the
cry was heard, "Osman." I pushed forward to find that it
was indeed Osman Pacha, who, having heard that the Grand
Duke was coming in this direction, had turned back in his
carriage to meet him. Osman Pacha was escorted by fifty
Cossacks, and there followed him twenty-five or thirty
Turkish officers, all mounted on diminutive Turkish ponies.
They were all, or nearly all, young men. Scarcely one among
them seemed over thirty. Most had the faces of mere
boy students. " Are these the lads," I inwardly exclaimed,
" with whom Osman Pacha has accomplished such wonders ? "
The Grand Duke rode up to the carriage, and, for some seconds,
the two chiefs gazed into each other's faces without the
utterance of a word. Then the Grand Duke stretched out
his hand, and shook the hand of Osman Pacha heartily and
said : —
" I compliment you on your defence of Plevna. It is one of
the most splendid military feats in history." Osman Pacha
smiled sadly, rose painfully to his feet in spite of his wound,
said something which I could not hear, and then re-seated
himself. The Russian officers all cried, " Bravo ! " " Bravo ! "
repeatedly, and all saluted respectfully. There was not one
among them who did not gaze on the Hero of Plevna with
the greatest admiration and sympathy. Prince Charles, who
had arrived, rode up, and repeated unwittingly almost every
word of the Grand Duke, and likewise shook hands. Osman
Pacha again rose and bowed, this time in grim silence.
He wore a loose blue cloak, with no apparent mark on it to
designate his rank, and a red fez. He is a large, strongly-
built man, the lower part of whose face is covered with a
short black beard, without a streak of grey. He has a large
Roman nose, and black eyes. The face is a strong face, with
energy and determination stamped on every feature — yet a
tired, wan face, also, with lines on it that hardly were graven
so deep I fancy five months ago ; and with a sad, enduring,
thoughtful look out of the black eyes.
" It is a grand face," exclaimed Colonel Gaillard, the French
military attache. " I was almost afraid of seeing him lest

154 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
my expectation should be disappointed, but he more than fulfils
my ideal."
" It is the face of a great military chieftain," said young Skobe
leff. " I am glad to have seen him. Osman Ghazi he is,
and Osman the Victorious he will remain, in spite of his sur
render."
There may perhaps be exaggeration in the Russian estimate of
Osman Pacha. History will judge. But, thrilling with the
impression of the great military event just accomplished, the
magnificent defence ending in a halo of disastrous glory, there
was not one of us who did not echo Skobeleff's words. Beit
remembered that Osman Pacha cannot be judged on ordinary
military rules for the reason that he had not a regular army ;
technically speaking, not an army at all, but a mob of armed
men, with scarcely any organization, with no discipline, save
the natural and passive obedience of the Turkish peasant,
and only such military education and experience as were
gained in the trenches and on the battle-field. This is the
highest form of generalship, to accomplish mighty results
with means which most military men would have regarded as
hopelessly inadequate. Osman Pacha had scarcely any officers
of talent and experience with him. He has borne the weight
of this stupendous defence on his own shoulders, a very
Titan, defying, with his untrained and scanty levies, the
serried legions of one of the greatest military powers of
Europe.
I rode through the Turkish troops after the surrender, when I
had time to examine them closely. There were bad, vile faces
among the horde, but there were also many bright faces, in
whose eyes was no murderous glare. I shall never forget the
face of one young officer who, with folded arms, stood a pri
soner among his men, gazing at us with a look of fierce de
fiant hate, that was softened by profound despair. The men
all wore dirty brown cloaks, with hoods pulled down over their
heads and very ragged foot-gear. They seemed ill-fed and
were mostly miserably bedraggled and tattered, yet, withal,
each man was a hero in our eyes when we thought of the
successive episodes of the long-protracted defence of Plevna,

ENTRY INTO PLEVNA. 155
from the repulse of Schilder-Schuldner to the final desperate
struggle to break the iron band of environment.
In the following letter the same Correspondent continues his
narrative of this memorable episode in the war : — ¦
t Plevna, December 11th. — Osman Pacha, during the whole time
of the siege of Plevna, up to the last day, lived in a tent, al
though there are a great many comfortable, even fine, houses in
the town. A true soldier, he preferred being almost as much
exposed to the inclemency of the weather as his own soldiers
in the trenches. Osman, I am told, asked to be allowed to
pass the night in Plevna, but as his tent had been struck, a
house was given to him. Thus his last night in Plevna was
the first passed under a roof.
After his meeting with Osman, the Grand Duke rode on to
Plevna. By the time we reached the town it was nearly dark,
and it presented a most miserable, wretched appearance. Not
that there were any ruins to contemplate, for the Russians did
not probably throw above a dozen shells into this part of the
town during the whole time of the siege, but narrow, crooked
streets, a foot deep with thin liquid mud, in which thousands
of men and horses were wandering about without apparently
knowing where to go, and without any object ; lean, cadaverous-
looking inhabitants who stood outside their doors, and saluted
us timidly as we passed, as though not quite sure that the Turks
might not yet come out and catch them at it, and looking in the
gloaming more like spectres than anything else ; houses in which
were seen no lights nor fires, cold, comfortless, and deserted,
made up a scene that, in the gathering darkness of a bleak
December evening, was dreary and depressing in the extreme.
I had attached myself to General Skobeleff, and while riding
through the streets on our way to our old quarters on the
Loftcha road, we met Tefik Bey, Osman's chief of staff, the
same who had come over the bridge to us with the white flag.
He had become separated from Osman, and was wandering
about with his escort through the muddy streets, nobody
seeming to know where to take him or where to go. General
Skobeleff immediately invited him to dine and pass the night

156 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
at his headquarters on the Loftcha road. Tefik Bey at first
hesitated, as he thought he ought to endeavour to join Osman,
but nobody knew where Osman was. It seemed then probable
that he had accompanied the Grand Duke to Bogot, and, at
any rate, if he were in Plevna, the task of finding him might
be one of hours in the darkness. General Skobeleff's per
suasions, joined to those of Colonel Gaillard, whom Skobeleff
had likewise invited, finally prevailed.
We then proceeded on our way up the Loftcha road. We passed
under the two redoubts taken by Skobeleff in September,
now silent and deserted, up across the Green Hill, across the
labyrinth of trenches and works where, only twenty-four
hours before, the Turks and Russians were still standing foot
to foot and bayonet to bayonet. All now was silent and lonely.
Arriving on the top of the hill, we saw the lights of Brestovec
gleaming on our right, and a short gallop brought us to
Uzendol, General Skobeleff's present headquarters.
A warm fire burning gaily in General Skobeleff's mud hut, a
glass of vodka, and some hot soup at once thawed out our
benumbed hands and feet, and we were soon enjoying a hot
dinner, with the appetites of men who had been in the saddle
since daylight, with not a morsel to eat. Tefik Bey seemed
much depressed and downcast. He spoke little, and was at
first almost as taciturn as he had been on the bridge. He
brightened up, however, as the meal progressed, drank a glass
of red wine, a glass of sherry, and a couple of glasses of
champagne, when General Skobeleff proposed the health of
Osman Ghazi, and drank to the brave defenders of Plevna.
A merry smile broke over his face when Skobeleff asked him
who had commanded the Turks on the Green Hill, and I
think it must have occurred to him now for the first time that
his entertainer was Skobeleff, the indefatigable, restless, dar
ing spirit with whom he had exchanged so many hard blows
on the Loftcha Road and Green Hill. Nobody had mentioned
Skobeleff's name in his presence, nor had Skobeleff told him
who he was, but the fact that we had come out of the Loftcha
Road, together with Skobeleff's question about the Green Hill,
was quite enough to enlighten him. So he said, with a smile,
" Ah, it is you who gave such tough work on the Green Hill

SKOBELEFF AND TEFIK BEY. 157
all this time. You are General Skobeleff." Skobeleff laughed,
and said, " Yes." " That was a very good attack of yours
that evening in the fog and darkness. Very well done. But
you did not get it all." " No," said Skobeleff, " I did not want
it all." And they both laughed. But, after this momentary
fit of sunshine, Tefik Bey soon again relapsed into melancholy
and gloom. It was partly the despondency and sadness
natural under the circumstances, partly the reaction on the
extreme excitement and tension of nerves during the last few
days when preparing for the sortie, and partly extreme
lassitude and fatigue. We had hardly swallowed our coffee
when Skobeleff, taking pity on him, turned us all out, gave up
his bed to Tefik, had another hastily made up for Colonel
Gaillard, and then retired and passed the night in a hut of
one of his officers ; and so ended this eventful day on our side
of Plevna.
A visit to the positions showed, what I have 'always maintained,
that the Russian artillery was practically useless, although
the ground in many places was ploughed up with shells, better
than the Bulgarian peasant ever ploughs it. The parapets and
trenches showed no signs of shells having struck them.
The fact is, one man can repair all the damage done to
an earthwork by one gun, and have plenty of time to
sleep and smoke besides. The Turks, everything con
sidered, were not badly off in the trenches. They had
constructed little huts all along them under cover of parapets
bullet-proof, and for the most part shell-proof. Here they
cooked, ate, slept, and had only to step outside their doors in
case of an attack and seize their rifles, which were always
lying ready loaded across the parapets. Colonel Gaillard
told me he had observed many masked dummy figures with
the fez on, which the Turks had evidently used to draw the
enemy's fire. This mask would be shown over the parapet,
while three or four Turkish sharpshooters took up their
stations a few feet on each side of it. The Russian on the
look out, and seeing this figure, would fire at it, thus exposing
himself to the bullets of the sharpshooters on either side,
whom he would not have remarked.
As regards the condition of Plevna, I know nothing about the

158 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
amount of provisions the inhabitants still had. I think they
must have been nearly at the end of their supplies ; but as
regards the military supplies, my belief is that Osman still
had enough to hold the place three weeks longer. There were
at least one thousand head of cattle yoked to the waggons of
the train that attempted a sortie. There was a certain num
ber of horses, perhaps two or three hundred, some flour and
rice, though I am unable to say how much. Tefik Bey
acknowledged they had still supplies for the week. Under
these circumstances it may be asked if Osman did not make
a mistake in attempting a sortie now instead of three weeks
later, when he might have made the attempt with equal
chances of success. His duty was to hold the Russians here
as long as possible. In three weeks the weather might so
have changed as to prevent the Russians from attempting a
march on Adrianople until next spring, which would have
given Mehemet Ali time to organize the army he is now try
ing to form. If Osman could have held out a month longer
it might have altered the situation very materially in favour
of the Turks.
On the other hand, several reasons have been offered to explain
the attempt to break out at present, either of which would
be sufficient to justify Osman. It only remains to ascertain
which of these reasons decided hi-m to act. In the first place,
I have heard it said, though I have not had time to investi
gate the report before leaving, that an epidemic, something
resembling plague, had broken out in the town, which
threatened in a few days to spread and annihilate the whole
population and army as well. When we remember that some
thousands of dead bodies were left to lie and rot around Plevna,
the condition of the hospitals, of the wounded and the sick,
the privations and the destitution of part of the inhabitants,
the report is by no means improbable, and such a danger
would justify Osman in attempting a sortie, while he yet had
an army with which to do it ; for the impression is general—
and this is the second reason given for making the attempt-
that Osman really hoped to break through. It was no mere
dash made with the intention of saving military honour in
order to capitulate afterwards, but a genuine effort in which

OSMAN PACHA'S TACTICS. 159
he flung his force against the Russian lines in the hope of
breaking them with one mighty blow.
It is thought he was deceived ; that he believed Gourko's
departure with the Guard had so weakened the Russian line
that he had a fair chance of success. There was some ground
for this belief, because Gourko has, it can do no harm to say
so now, over 30,000 men of the best troops of the Russian
army of the Guard. Osman might easily know of the
departure of Gourko. It would be difficult for him to ascer
tain with what force he had been replaced. The only means
of ascertaining whether the barrier before him was a solid
wall, or only a curtain, was by driving his sword through it.
How mighty was the blow he struck I have already described.
The chances to a man inside Plevna may have appeared in
favour of success in a sortie, and the moment most favour
able for attempting it.
As to Gourko's army, he evidently hoped to avoid it by striking
for Widdin. Finally, another reason given for Osman's
attempt is, orders from Constantinople to cut his way out at
all hazards. Such an order would, of course, notify Osman
as to the difficulty of such an order reaching him. That
would have been easy enough. If the Russians had caught a
man carrying such an order through their lines, they would
have set him at liberty, and sent him on his way rejoicing.
They would willingly have transmitted the order to Osman
had the occasion presented. Thus there is no doubt that if
the order were sent from Constantinople Osman is sure to
have received it. This, therefore, may account for his attempt.
It was evidently a mistake on the part of Osman to make the
attempt now instead of waiting until he had only three days'
rations left, but it does not appear that it was a mistake he
could have avoided, or for which he is responsible.
A few notes from another Correspondent will complete the
story of the fall of Plevna : —
December 15th. — Yesterday 58,000 Russian and 12,000 Rou
manian , troops formed up in two lines of quarter columns
on the battle-field of Plevna for inspection by the Emperor,

160 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
who was received with the greatest enthusiasm by all. He
was accompanied by the Grand Duke, Prince Charles, and a
brilliant staff. On arrival, he embraced General Witrinsky
and General Daniloff, who commanded the reserve which
came to the rescue, and the line which received the Turkish
attack. The Emperor shook hands with Captain Granatichesk,
of the Roumanian artillery, who rendered good service on the
same day.
As the parade formed, a few wounded Turks were found who
had survived four days without food or water and exposed to
the cold.
Forty thousand Russians leave to-day for Orkanieh. There is
great mortality among the Turkish prisoners. Many Turkish
dead are still unbnried.
Now that the allies have triumphed here, hopes for peace prevail
in both armies.
It is here of interest to note that, about this time, the North
German Gazette published an elaborate statistical paper showing
the strength and positions of the military forces now contending
in Turkey. According to this paper, the Russo-Roumanian
army under the command of Prince Charles of Roumania
consists of 119,000 men with 558 field guns ; the forces in the
Balkans, 30,000 men with 162 guns ; the army on the Lom
under the Czarewitch of 73,000 men with 432 guns ; and the
forces in the Dobrudscha and Eastern Roumania, 38,000 men
with 440 guns. The Turkish army is composed : — First, of
the forces in Western Bulgaria, 92,000 men with 132 guns
(including Osman Pacha's army, 50,000 men) and 4,000
irregulars; secondly, the forces in the Balkans, 26,000 men
with 76 guns and a number of mortars, and 3,000 irregulars;
thirdly the army in the Quadrilateral and in the Dobrudscha,
including the garrisons, 135,000 men with 386 guns, and about
60,000 irregulars.

161

CHAPTER VI.
THE PAUSE IN GENERAL GIOORKO'S ADVANCE.
News from Constantinople. — Proposal to enrol Christian Recruits. — The Gen
darmerie Scheme. — The Projected Civic Guard. — Baker Pacha. — Case of the
Geshoffs. — Treatment of Bulgarian Prisoners. — Want of Horses. — Censorship
of the Newspapers. — The Armenian Community. — Regulations proposed by
the Greek Patriarch. — Feeling of the Greeks. — The Sultan's Patronage of
the Greeks. — The Circular Despatch. — Desire for Peace.. — The Servians. —
Danube : Accident to the Bridge of Boats. — Advance of General Gourko to
Orkanieh. — The Little Village of Lazan. — Superiority of the Turkish Works.
— Description of Orkanieh. — An Unexpected Communication. — Rejoicings
over the Fall of Plevna. —Curious Craving for Sugar. — Hard Times for the
" Guard.— The Sutler's Shop.— The Poor " Bratouschka."— Flight of the Turks
from Orkanieh. — Positions of the two Armies. — An Arctic Landscape.
From the following letter from a correspondent in Constan
tinople, the reader will gather an idea of the state of feeling,
and the condition of affairs in Constantinople on the eve of
events so disastrous to the Turkish cause : —
: : Constantinople, November 30th. — It is again announced that
Christians are to be added to the army. As your readers will
recollect, the Government issued a notice some months ago
that this was to be done. The Armenian and the Greek
Patriarchs protested, and the project was of course not carried
out. It had, however, served its turn, and the Government
was no doubt considerably the richer for the proposal. It
was, indeed, regarded in Constantinople simply as a device to
obtain additional contributions from the Christians. The new
proposal differs somewhat from the old. A " civic guard " is to
be formed, composed without distinction of all subjects of the
Sultan. The Imperial decree has been promulgated, its rules
drawn up, and in any other country but this there would be
little doubt of its being carried into execution. In spite,
however, of all the provisions of the decree, one may be
VOL. II. M

162 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
allowed to be sceptical as to the formation of such a body
even in Constantinople.
Before the war began, I urged that the employment of Christians
in the army upon the same condition as Mussulmans was one
of the very few reforms which would have given equality to
the subject races of the Empire. My argument was that, as
it is dangerous to ill treat a man with a bayonet in his hand,
the Moslem population would gradually learn to drop their
habits of petty and annoying tyranny, and to regard"
Christians as men who meant to have, and would have,"
equal treatment and justice with themselves. Had Turkey
chosen to consent to the terms offered her at the Conference,
an acceptance of this — one of the proposed terms — might
possibly have led to the object which the Sultan, at least, is
said to have at heart, the uniting together of the two hitherto
absolutely opposing elements of which his Empire is com
posed. The Turks, however, were unwilling and probably
afraid to admit the Christians to their army then. Let me
add that, evidently from their own point of view they are
right. The Turks know as well as anybody else that their
domination will be at an end from the time they allow arms
to be put into the hands of the Christians. Like other
mortals, the Turks wish to stick to power as long as possible.
I have never seen a sign of any willingness on the part of
the Turks to admit Christians to equality. On the contrary,
I have myself seen much in various parts of the Empire, and
have heard much from persons who have been in every part
of the Empire, which leads me to believe there would be
violent opposition to any serious attempt to introduce religious
equality. I believe, too, that among those who would other.
wise be willing to allow Christians to enter the army on equals)
terms with themselves, there is fear of what the result
might be. <
We heard much during the American war of the arming of the
slaves to fight against the North. We may hear a good deal
more of the arming of the Christian races, but the talk in
each case will, I believe, end in talk, at any rate until the
war is over. Like every foreigner resident in Constantinople,
I should be glad to see the civic guard, as'proposed in the

ENROLMENT OF CHRISTIANS. 163
Imperial decree, formed into an existing soldiery. There
would certainly be less fear of a Moslem disturbance directed
against the Christian quarters if it were known that a civic
guard, composed about equally of Moslems and Christians, was
ready to put down any attempts at disorder, whether made by
disorderly Turks or by disorderly Christians. The scheme
is, in fact, almost as good as the still more elaborate one
which I described some months ago as having been drawn up
by Baker Pacha, for a gendarmerie throughout the Empire.
No step has, however, been taken to form the latter, except
what was done right off. Baker Pacha and his staff were
chosen, and there the matter dropped. The head has been
fighting with Suleiman, and, after a few days passed in Con
stantinople, has started to Sofia to join Mehemet Ali. Some
of his staff are, I believe, with him. The rest have nothing to
do, and are doing it ornamentally and pleasantly, I hope, for
themselves in Constantinople. But for all practical purposes
the scheme has not been carried into execution. As the
employment of Christians in military service was solemnly
promised in the famous Hatt of 1856, and on several occasions
since, Europeans are not called upon to believe that the
promise will be fulfilled until they see something more than
the Imperial regulations. Indeed, what is said openly about
it is very probably correct, that it is intended mainly as an
answer to Russia when she declares that she will insist upon
the grant of equality to the Christians. Besides, it has the
additional advantage which is the key to the motives of so
many Turkish paper reforms, and which may be summed up
in the words of the Biglow papers — " It makes us more
highly thought on abroad."
The Imperial order for the formation of this Civic Guard con
sists of twenty-two articles, and contains amongst others the
following propositions : — The service is to be obligatory for
all those over seventeen who have not yet been inscribed on
the conscription roll, and for all those on that roll who have
not been drawn. Any who may be subsequently drawn will
have to leave the ranks of the Civic Guard. The only per
sons exempted are to be members of the Imperial family,
Cabinet Ministers, Senators, and Deputies, with certain
M 2

164 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
officers belonging to the Civil Service and the Ulemas. The
design of the Guard is said to be to defend the country, and
to maintain order provisionally in the absence of regular
troops. Their sole mission is defence. If they wish, they may
be sent to war, either incorporated among the regular troops
or separately. The Government is to have the right of calling
them out when it thinks fit. They are, of course, to be under
military rule, and during ordinary times are to be assimilated
to ordinary subjects. Those who do not present themselves
when called upon are, as punishment, to be sent as simple
recruits into the regular army. Lastly, they are to have a
special flag given to them — not this time consisting of a
cross between two crescents, but ornamented with the
"toughra" Imperial and the insignia of the " Osmanie.''
To-day the proposal has been submitted to the Greek and
Armenian Patriarchs. On the last occasion they protested
stoutly against it, though there is reason to believe that in
case of peace they would have no objection to come to an
arrangement by which those under their spiritual control \
should serve in the army. I anticipate that they will again
object.
The telegraph will already have informed you that the Geshoffs
have been so far released that they have been allowed to go to
live in Kadiquoy, a suburb of Scutari. They are not to leave
this village, and an officer of Government is to live in the house
with them to keep watch over their proceedings. The family
of the Geshoffs is one which has lived for fifty years in Bul
garia in good repute for honesty and good conduct. Possessed
of considerable wealth they are not the stuff of which con
spirators are usually made. All, moreover, whom I have met
with who know them, say that they are essentially quiet men
who have attended to their business, and who would not be in
the least likely to interfere in political questions. The real fault
attributed to them is that they are supposed to have given
information to Lady Strangford, Mr. Baring, Mr. Schuyler,
and your Special Commissioner. The house consists of four
brothers, the youngest of whom was, I am informed, in
business at Manchester. The other three resided at Philip
popolis. Two sons of one of these brothers were the

CASE OF THE GESHOFFS. 165
first arrested, and were kept in prison for three months with
out any examination or charge being brought against them.
In passing I may be allowed to doubt whether it was not a
misfortune that their case should have been taken up by their
friends in England. They are men of considerable wealth,
and a portion of this, disposed of in the fashion every one
born in Turkey and having had dealings with the Turkish
authorities understands would, I have no doubt whatever,
have got them released. Still, as one of these young men
had been appointed United States Consul in Philippopolis, it
was inevitable that there should be interference. Moreover,
hangings were going on so recklessly during the worse than
bloody assize which followed the brave operations of the
Turkish regulars and irregulars against the Bulgarians, that
some of their friends here were naturally unwilling to risk
the chance of a release by backsheesh. After the sons had
been three months in prison, the three elder members of the
family, aged respectively seventy-five, seventy, and sixty, were
likewise imprisoned. This was on the 9th of the present
month. Their families also were ordered to be ready to leave
next day. This notification was carried into effect, and thus
on the 10th the three old men, with their wives, their child
ren, and grandchildren, down to an infant in arms, and their
men and women servants, were sent off in a body to Con
stantinople. The American Legation has done its best for
the unfortunate family, and insisted that they should not be
banished to Aleppo, as was at first proposed.
: I have taken the above facts from a memorial which has been
presented to the various Embassies and Legations in Con
stantinople. They afford a fair typical instance of the mode
of procedure with model subjects. There has been no charge
brought against them, not the slightest pretext of a trial, but
they are suspected persons. Some of the family narrowly
escaped hanging. The whole of them are practically ruined
by being taken from their business and their property. If
such things are done to a family possessing friends who can
interest Lord Derby in their behalf, having a member who
had received the appointment of American Consul, and there
fore having the support — and a generous support it has been — ¦

166 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of the American Legation, what chance is there of justice to
Bulgarians less favourably situated ? Bands of other Bui-
garian prisoners continue to arrive in Constantinople, to be
sent hence in banishment to various parts of the Empire.
Their condition is sad in the extreme. They are cold, hungry,
and mostly ill-clad. Moreover, there are among them old
men, who in the natural course of things cannot live beyond
a few months, and there are many lads whose appearance
gives one the impression that they are not more than twelve
or thirteen years old. From some districts it is evident that
the authorities have determined to get rid of the whole of
the inhabitants. This day week such a band arrived in
Stamboul. Mr. Barrington Kennet, and another gentleman
who is acting for the Stafford House Committee, were on the
spot ; and though their special business was to provide food
for the sick and wounded soldiers who arrived, yet, with the
instincts of English gentlemen, when they saw these half-
starved wretches who had come from Philippopolis, and who
declared that they had had no food either on the road or for
hours before starting, they attempted to give them soup and
bread. The soldiers, however, refused to allow their prisoners
to receive anything. In vain were they remonstrated with,
and even abused, as they deserved : the prisoners were Bul
garians, and might starve, but they should have no food;
and at length these gentlemen had to cease their efforts,
because the soldiers threatened to break the vessel containing
the soup if the attempt were renewed.
December 4th — The Greek Patriarch has communicated through
the usual ecclesiastical authorities the Sultan's decree for the
formation of a National Guard. The Armenian Patriarch
and the Bulgarian Exarch will do the same. They have no
objection to military service for the preservation of order
locally.
December 7th. — The Government has notified to the Tramways
Company at Constantinople that the urgent need of obtain
ing artillery horses makes it necessary that the company j
should surrender to the military authorities its stock of 280 1

.THE TURKISH PRESS. 167
horses still retained in working the tramways. The com
pany, in reply, says that this will prove the ruin of an in
dustrial association, and reduce to distress numerous families.
The following letter from the same pen shows how eagerly
intelligence regarding the rumoured fall of Plevna and the
capture of Osman Pacha and his army, was expected in the
Turkish capital.
: : Constantinople, December 12th. — The great point of interest
to us all here has been whether Plevna will be taken. To
day the news has arrived that it has been taken. Only the
Embassies have received telegrams, and our information is of
the smallest.
How strong the interest has been may be gathered from the
fact that hardly a day has passed without rumours in regard
to it obtaining general belief. A week ago we were told on
every hand that Osman had capitulated. Then the rumour
ran that he had made a terrific attempt to break out, had lost
half his men; but had succeeded in getting free. For six
hours at least the only point which remained open to discus
sion was whether he had taken himself to Rahova or to Loft
cha. It would be idle, however, to attempt to gather up the
various rumours which pass for facts here, and which the
lively imagination of the population twist into a great variety
of shapes. As I have previously stated, the latest source of
our information upon what is going on north of the Balkans
is the Press of Athens. The Government has apparently
come to the same conclusion, and accordingly issued a notice
prohibiting the importation of Greek newspapers. The pro
hibition is altogether a characteristic one. Its effect may be
to diminish the number of papers which come in, but cer
tainly not to keep out news. As, moreover, the Press depart
ment has not forbidden the publication of telegrams taken
from foreign newspapers, the result is that the local news
papers make careful extracts from the Greek papers, which
in spite of Governmental prohibition manage to come into
their hands, and publish them for the benefit of their readers.
The result is one which is perfectly well known to the censor-

168 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
ship in regard to books also. The importation of certata
books is rigidly forbidden. Still, though our number of
booksellers is very small, any one who wishes to buy a pro
hibited book will be pretty sure to find it at the first book
shop he enters, and probably displayed in the shop window.
As the Government has a monopoly of the telegraph, it can of
course stop the entry of a considerable quantity of news.
The effect, however, is not to keep from us the whole of the
facts, but rather, I imagine, to give us inaccurate instead of
exact versions of what has taken place. Private telegrams
are allowed to pass, and if a merchant hears from London or
Vienna that " John Smith is dead," or that " There is no
demand for coals in Newcastle," the telegraph official may be
excused for not suspecting that one means that " Kars has
fallen," and the other that " It is rumoured that Osman has
tried to get out of Plevna." The truth is that the whole
system of trying to hide the truth is simply childish. It
fails in its object, and by the very secrecy in transmission
which has to be resorted to, gives rise to wild, exaggerated,
and prolonged rumours, which do more to disquiet the public
mind than the publication of the truth would do.
During the last week we have had almost a deluge of rain.
Usually we have fine weather throughout European Turkey
in December, but this month appears to be an exception.
The cry amongst the Turks is that the weather is still fight
ing for Mahomet, and if a continuance of wet which has kept
the country in one long soak is to be attributed to the Pro
phet's influence, they are right. The registers in the capital
showed that by the 1st of October we had had more than the
average annual rainfall, and there is, I believe, now no doubt
that the year's record will show the heaviest rainfall that has
yet been registered.
The jealousy which led to the dismissal of Mehemet Ali from
the command of the army of the Lom has not allowed him
to remain with that which he has done a good deal to form
at Sofia. It was announced yesterday that he is to be sent
to Montenegro, which is generally regarded as practical
banishment. However, none but well-wishers to Turkish
arms need regret the .change. Among the military officers

THE CIVIC GUARD. 169
attached to the various embassies here he is regarded as
altogether the ablest soldier now in command.
The admission of Christians to the Civic Guard has caused a
considerable amount of excitement. Mr. Layard, rightly or
wrongly, has the credit of having advised the Porte to this
step. Many of the Turks are opposed to it, and equally
again it has not found favour with the Christians. I adhere
to my prediction that the proposal has not the slightest
chance of being carried into effect. If it is adopted any
where it will be in the capital. The boundaries of the dis
trict of Constantinople will be the utmost extent of its adop
tion. There will certainly be no objection whatever on the
part of the Christians of Smyrna, of Thessaly, and Epirus
to military service for local protection, and the Turks are far
too wide-awake to their own interests not to know why. In
the capital, however, notwithstanding the consent which a
few highly-placed Christians gave to the proposal, and in
spite of the sound argument, as it seems to me, that there
will be great advantage in case of disturbances here in having
a body of Christians with arms in their hands bound to pre
serve order, the poorer classes both of Greeks and Armenians
will have nothing to do with military service if they can
help it. They have no confidence that if once enrolled they
will not be sent to fight the Russians, and they have no
stomach for such a fight. The war is not theirs, and they do
not know what Moslem officers would do, once they were
under military control. The men of the provinces, too, have
paid haratch, or exemption money, all their lives in lieu of
military service, and do not see why they should be called
upon to serve as well. ' One of the Constantinople news
papers suggested on Saturday last that the fair thing to
do was to pay the exemption money back. Military ser
vice, moreover, even two years ago, might not have been
unwelcome to the Christian communities, but there is a
natural objection to being called upon under present circum
stances.
On Friday last the religious assembly of the Armenian com
munity met to consider the Ministerial order by which
the Porte had communicated this new reform of admitting

170 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Christians into the Civic Guard. The Patriarch Narses was
. in the chair. Several speakers, mostly in the Turkish
service, spoke in favour of giving a vote of thanks to the
Government for its proposal. No resolution, however, was
come to. Outside the room where the meeting was being
held, a large crowd, estimated at not less than two thou
sand Armenians, had assembled, and did their best to in
timate to their representatives in the religious assembly of
the community that they were opposed to the proposed
measure. I am told that it never had much chance of
being adopted, but if it had, there were those outside who
were prepared to take what might have proved very rough
measures to show their dissatisfaction. I am informed
that the decision finally arrived at was that no official
answer should be sent, but it was left understood that the
reply to the Porte should be given by certain priests rather
than by the official heads of the community. The latter
might lose place or position with the Turks. The priests,
who live with and by the people, and who are as much
identified with their flocks and as little bound up with the
interests of their caste as any priests in the world, will have
no objection to state their grievances and their objections to
the change.
The Greek Patriarch has submitted to the Porte a summary of
the regulations which he considers necessary before the decree
in question shall be carried into effect. For him the question
is one of enormous importance. There are in Constantinople
and its vicinity not less than four hundred thousand Greeks.
Of these sixty thousand belong to the kingdom of Greece,
are Hellenes, as they call themselves, while the remaining three
hundred and forty thousand are Christian subjects of the
Porte. For most purposes there is no difference between the
Greek rayahs and the subjects of King George. All speak
the same language, and, above Jail, with an insignificant ex
ception all belong to the same church. During the last few
months while Greece has been arming, the excitement among
the Hellenes has been very great. This has, of course, com
municated itself to their fellow Greeks here. Their news
papers here, in the mild way which just kept them out of the

THE GREEK POPULATION. 171
range of the Press law — some of them have been suppressed,
and all the others warned, in Greece in the most open way —
have spoken of the abominations committed in enslaved
Greece, that is in Thessaly and Epirus, and in Crete. There
is not a Greek any more than there is an Armenian
who has not a rough and fairly accurate idea of what the
Ghegas and Bashi-Bazouks have been doing in Europe and
the Kurds in Asia. Now, the order goes forth that they are
to be enrolled for the defence of the localities where they
reside. Defence of course in their eyes means fighting for the
Turks, and they don't like it. The patriarch and the better
educated Greeks, though I believe hardly one could be found
who would be willingly to fight against the traditions of their
race, take what seems to me on the whole a more sensible
view.
Armament of the Christians throughout European Turkey is,
of course, from a Turkish point of view too absurd an idea
to be entertained by anybody who knows the country. There
is not a single province where the authorities would venture
for a week to place arms in the hands of the Christians.
Whoever suggested the idea, if he were not a Turk, had an
eye to what would be thought in Europe, and probably talked
about arming the Christians exactly as certain people talked
about arming the slaves to fight on the side of the Con
federacy. If he were a Turk he was probably thinking
mainly of extracting further substitution money from the
Christians. But to arm the Christians in Constantinople
need not, either from a Turkish or a Christian point of view,
be absurd. There is always a possibility of a fanatical mob
in the capital. There are elements in this, as in all large
cities, which would only too be glad to join in a row. The
distress which the war has caused has been felt by all classes,
but especially by the poorer Turks, and hunger and fanaticism
might give the orderly part of the community a bad time.
Moreover, should the Russians advance, we should have the
Bashi-Bazouks, who have had a year's free play, to say
nothing of the possibility of fragments of a retreating army,
falling back upon, or driven into, Constantinople. In any of
these cases it would be an advantage that the guard, whose

.172 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
duty it should be to keep order, should be composed of
Christians and Moslems alike. If, therefore, the Greek
Patriarch should give his consent to the proposal, it does not
seem to me that he can fairly be blamed. I repeat, however,
my impression, that all the discussion which has been aroused
by the suggestion to enrol Christians is needless, because
neither in the provinces, nor even in the capital, do I believe
that there will be any serious attempt to enrol them. Europe
will be shown that there is a united people, a further sum of
money will have been obtained, and the scheme will quietly
glide into oblivion. The 150,000 bayonets which the officially-
inspired newspapers inform us will be added to the Turkish
army will never be seen.
It may be admitted that one of the objects in admitting the
Christians to military service is to conciliate them. Such a
measure adopted two or three years ago might have avoided
the war, and have been productive of the happiest results.
Now, however, the conviction on nearly all sides is that the
attempt comes too late. Among the bankers and the wealthier
classes of Greeks and Armenians alike, conciliation might
even now be acceptable. But, as one of the clearest-headed
among them, and one, too, who would prefer the continuation
of the rule of the Turk if reasonable terms of conciliation
could be obtained, explained to me a day or two ago, the lower
and less educated classes, who have preserved among them
the traditions of their four centuries of misgovernment more
clearly, and whose religious feeling is stronger than among
the wealthier, cannot at this hour be thus persuaded. Too
late for the purpose of using the muscles and sinews of
Greek, Bulgarian, and Armenian in this way, will be any
attempt made by the Sultan to grant this reform. Too late,
when the enemy is thundering at the gates, because, however
strange it may appear to those who have forgotten their
instincts as Englishmen, the oppressed of four centuries
cannot be persuaded that the invader is an enemy.
The Sultan, in his amiable manner, has invited the Greek
Patriarch to eat with him, and has expressed his wish to see
all degrees of his subjects happy and contented, and is doing
his best to convince the Greeks that henceforward they are

sultan's patronage of the greeks. 173
not to be forgotten in the distribution of favours. We were
informed two days ago that he proposes to appoint two or
three Christian servants of the Porte as governors-general of
some of the principal provinces of the Empire ; that he has
conferred upon M. Zarifi, the leading banker, and a man who
deserves great praise for what he has done on behalf of educa
tion for his fellow Greeks, the highest class of the Order of the
Medjidie, and that others of his family are likewise to receive
decorations. The appointment of Christian governors to the
provinces is not in itself of great importance, Greeks and
Armenians in Turkish employ being usually not a whit better
than Turks themselves. The system in accordance with
which they are appointed and hold office offers temptations to
which no man ought to be subject. But the appointment is
of importance as showing that at the last moment the
Government either sees the necessity, or wishes to persuade
the subject races and Europe that it sees the necessity, of con
ciliating the Christians. For present purposes, however, the
Christians of the Empire entirely understand the meaning of
the proposed changes, and estimate their value accordingly.
Nay, even among the Turks I have heard it said that it is
only a sign of weakness to put forward such proposals now,
and that Europeans are not so foolish as to be deceived by
baits thrown to their fellow-subjects at such a time.
Constantinople, December 18th. — Official intelligence from
Nisch of the 17th inst. announces that on that date the
Servian outposts made their appearance on the Comert
heights, opposite Vetek. Turkish militia and auxiliary
troops, which had come from Leskofscha, were sent to
defend the fortifications, and three reconnoitring parties
advanced as far as the Servian entrenchments in the village
of Tchamouslu. After a slight engagement, in which the
losses were insignificant, the reconnoitring force returned
to its quarters. The garrison and civil authorities of
Kourchoumlu evacuated that place on the approach of the
Servians.
The following letter from Nicopolis shows that the old

174 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
troubles of the Russians with their constructions for effecting
the passage of the Danube had not ceased to pursue them : —
§ December 6th. — The bridge of 100 pontoon boats across the
Danube, between Turna Maguerelle and Nicopolis, has now
come to somewhat serious grief. Sixteen boats are sunk,
some sixteen more are more or less wrecked, the super
structure of this part of the bridge is of course in like
condition. The officer in charge of the works says it will be
a fortnight or three weeks before it is repaired. The disaster
came about in this wise. A strong easterly wind blowing
against the stream brought up a nasty chopping sea, that
yesterday dragged an anchor or two and stopped traffic for a
few hours. Last night it blew hard from the same quarter,
and the waves got big enough to get into sixteen boats and
sink them at their moorings. The boats are placed at eight
yards distance from each other ; the place where the bridge
ceases now to be one is at the fifty-fifth boat, exactly a quarter
of a mile from the Roumanian shore. We traversed the fifty-
five boats, which, with snake-like turnings, are doing their
best to get loose, and on arrival at the gap were forcibly
reminded of the old print of the English flagship at Trafalgar,
surrounded by half-sunk boats, rafts, beams of wood, by the
scene before us. Some clear spaces in the troubled waters
show where the pontoons have sunk entirely. Then for
about 200 yards are boats, trestles, superstructure in every
conceivable state of wreck. Occasionally the light spars that
carried the single telegraph wire from the front bob then-
heads helplessly above the water. The movement of that
part of the bridge still holding together has in many places
been violent enough to break the rack-lashings, force up the
roadway, and move the ponderous road-bearers which have
broken the iron bands that clasped them to the road tran
soms. The manifest result is, if it blows hard to-night the
rest of the bridge will go. I searched in vain for signs of
any steps being taken to mend the broken or secure the
intact part of the bridge. Half a dozen Roumanian soldiers,
seated on the boat next the broken part, must have been there
for some object, as no one could have chosen the centre of the

TROUBLES ON THE DANUBE. 175
Danube, the most dangerous point on a dangerous bridge, in
a cold easterly gale, for pleasure. Their mission probably
was one which most Roumanian soldiers seem to fulfil
admirably, viz., waiting to be told to do something. Three
steam launches with steam up were on the river, and could
have easily been made of use in towing away some of the
wreck, especially some large pieces of the superstructure of
the bridge, which, anchored by some hidden ropes, floating
raft-like on the water, were gyrating wildly about, to the
danger of the unsunk but disabled pontoons. On coming
off the bridge an officer informed us that there was too
much sea on for any repairs to be made, so the intact part
of the bridge must sink or swim accordingly as it blows hard
or temperately to-night. Drawn up in close array on the
wrong side of the river were about 200 country carts full of
bread, which the Roumanians at Plevna would in the ordinary
course of things have eaten the day after to-morrow. The
preparations for getting these carts across consist in fixing a
small raft made of materials from the bridge on a pontoon.
This will be sufficiently large to take one cart and pair of
bullocks, and can probably, bar accidents, make thirty
journeys in the twenty-four hours, thus taking over
fifteen carts of provisions a day. I say bar accidents
advisedly, as the stream of the Danube is a strong one ; the
length of open bank where a boat can land on the south side,
between the bridge and some very high perpendicular cliffs
that run into the water, is about a quarter of a mile. Will
such an unwieldy contrivance always succeed in doing its
half-mile with less than a quarter-mile leeway ? The
Russians, 1,200 strong, who up to this have garrisoned
Nicopolis, have marched away to Plevna, and have been
relieved by Roumanians.
Before returning to the scene of recent events north of the
Balkans it will be convenient to glance again at the position of
¦General Gourko. The following letter is by the same corres
pondent from whom the reader last heard news of that portion
of the field of operations : —

176 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
-f Headquarters of General ' Gourko, Orkanieh, in the
Balkans, December 14th. — A week ago the headquarters
were moved from Etropol to Orkanieh, not without previous
notice of a day or two, so we got over the narrow and diffi
cult passage behind Pravca at our leisure. The road leaves
the valley of the Mali Isker about three kilometres below
Etropol, and mounts rapidly the range that forms the
watershed of this river and the Pravecka. As Orkanieh
lies about 700 feet lower than Etropol, the descent into the
valley of the Pravecka is longer than the climb on the other
side ; and the road comes out along the river, leaving the
village of Pravca on the left, and meets the chaussee just at
the entrance of the Pravca Pass, and at the foot of the
mountain which was held by the Turks the day of the
battle there. From here it is a ride of an hour and a half
to Orkanieh, which lies very near the mountains where the
chaussee enters them and climbs the Baba Konak Pass,
where the two armies now lie. The Sofia Road has in this
valley, as indeed for the greater part of the distance between
Plevna and this point, a row of small cherry trees on each
side, which are not yet large enough to be very tempting for
fuel, and therefore are nearly all standing. The telegraph
posts are, on the contrary, all cut down and burned.
The little village of Lazan was entirely deserted as we passed
through it, and the houses bore marks of bullets and shells
on either side the highway. Just beyond here two or three
rifle-pits, now filled with water, showed where the Turkish
outposts were, and on a range of low hills north of Orkanieh,
and only about a half-mile distant, were the great square
redoubts, left of the road, that looked so formidable on the
day we watched them from the mountain, when the tents
dotted the valley all about the town, and the ramparts were
black with Turkish soldiers. Now the rains had already
filled the ditches of the long breastworks that cut across
the slope among the trimmed trunks of the oak trees and
washed away the sharp angles of the parapets. These works
were constructed with a skill and care that would put to
shame the finest Russian fortifications about Plevna, and
proved for the thousandth time the superiority of the Turks

AT ORKANIEH. 177
in this regard. They always fortify at once ; if they did
not the war would long ago have been ended. The Russians
generally put it off till the next day, and then throw up an
apology for a breastwork, too often, with the remark that it
is good enough against the Turks. They began the war
with this idea, and it is not entirely beaten out of them yet.
In this remark there is a whole history of positions not held,
of hardly-won ground lost, and of precious lives sacrified.
The fortifications in the neighbourhood of Orkanieh were not
intended as a defence of that town, but of the entrance to
the pass at the back, and the strongest of the works are on
the mountain slopes near the village of Vracesi, which lies
at the entrance to the pass, about a mile south-west of
Orkanieh. There are no works on the plain north-west of
Orkanieh, and it was from this side that the Russian cavalry
made dashes into the town and annoyed the enemy previous
to his departure. The nearest Turkish position in this direc
tion is at the village of Lutikova, seven miles distant, just
below the summit of the range which separates the plain of
Orkanieh from the valley of the Isker. It would be possible
for the Turks from this point to make a dash occasionally
across the line of communication if they are not driven
out of that place before the army crosses the Baba Konak
Pass.
As I rode into Orkanieh in the cold rain on the afternoon of
the day the headquarters were changed, I was on the alert
to find as good quarters as possible, for something like a
comfortable shelter is now a necessity for both men and
horses. In the main street of the town, opposite a great
khan, stands a little isolated house of two storeys, newly
built, high in the walls, and with a large courtyard. It was
apparently waiting for me, and I took possession, as a matter
of course. The interior, perfectly fresh and clean, with
whitewashed walls, did not offer anything attractive to the
eye, but in spite of broken glass it had a comfortable,
spacious look about it that was a relief after the low ceil
ings, latticed windows, and curious mud stoves of the houses
I had been occupying, in which there was much picturesque-
ness but little comfort. I was surveying the walls of one
VOL. II. N

178 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of the rooms with the view to the possible decoration of a
great blank whitewashed space with bridles and equipments,
when some writing in lead pencil caught my eye, and attracted
my attention from its characteristic English swing, that was
unmistakable even when seen from a distance. With mixed
feelings I read these words : — " My dear Forbes, if you enter
with headquarters, requisition this house — the best in the
place. Give an eye to the surgeons you took prisoners the
other day. I am returning to England. All well." Signed
"A. 0. Mackeller," and addressed, "Archibald Forbes, Esq.,
Daily News," with no date. It seems almost like a commu
nication from another world, although at the time I read it
both the writer and the one to whom it was addressed might
have been together in London. In regard to the surgeons,
those who were captured at Teliche were the ones referred
to, without any doubt. They were treated with every con
sideration, and when I saw them in Bogot a few days after
they were made prisoners they were in comfortable quarters,
and were taking their meals daily at the table of the Grand
Duke. They, however, seemed to be possessed with the idea
that they were quite as badly off as common prisoners,
because a soldier followed them about everywhere they went,
an attention which, under the circumstances, was surely not
superfluous. But personal liberty is so dear to some of us
that a mere hint of an invasion of its rights may not
be balanced by the hospitality of even grand dukes and
princes.
The news of the attempted sortie from Plevna came to us about
daybreak on the morning after, and three hours of suspense
ended in the reception of the news of the surrender of the
army of Osman Pacha. The great joy that this news brought
may be imagined. It was as if every one had a weight lifted
off his heart — a weight that had been lying there four long
months. Officers embraced each other, soldiers cheered, and
cheered and cheered again, and everybody felt free to give
way to the wildest expressions of delight. General Gourko
went to the positions with his staff to tell the great news to
the troops in the bivouac there. He remained with Count
Schouvaloff, and his aides-de-camp went up into the entrench'

THE SUGAR FAMINE. 179
ments with the tidings. The cheers in the bivouacs had
announced long before the aides-de-camp arrived an event
of more than usual importance, and all the soldiers were
curious to know what had happened. When they were
told the news they jumped upon the parapets and waved
their caps at the astonished Turks, who were close by on
the opposite ridge, and gave round after round of hurrahs.
The sun, which had been veiled for days, just at this
time shone out brightly, and the mist dissipated, giving the
opposing lines, for the first time for a week, a fair sight at
each other. In the batteries the numbers were ordered to
their posts, and then, while parapets were lined with men,
all waving their caps and cheering frantically, volley after
volley of shell was thrown into the enemy's fortification, for
once a joyous and triumphant cannonade. The cheers spread
like a wave from one end to the other of the line, down in
the ravines, back in the woods — away on the summits went
the sound until it became a faint hum in the distance, and
died away and was renewed again with repeated energy for
a long while. This was the beginning of the fete, and that
day nothing that could be eaten and drunk to celebrate the
tidings was spared. Since that the weather has been growing
fine, and, as may be supposed, the rise in the barometer of
every one's spirits, from the general to the last soldier, is
immense.
In my last letter I spoke of the sugar famine at Etropol, and
the difficulty of obtaining any of the small luxuries of life
there. The famine did not last long, for the day after we
came to Orkanieh a sutler arrived with an immense train of
waggons laden with every kind of groceries, delicacies, and
small wares, and began to unpack his goods in an empty shop
opposite the General's headquarters. The news of this
arrival spread quicker than even the report of the fall of
Plevna, if one may judge by the crowd of officers of every
rank that besieged the entrances to the shop long before the
proprietor had any intention of opening the establishment.
The covers were off some of the cases disclosing sugar, pre
serves, bottles, and stationery, and the attraction was too
great to be resisted, so the crowd entered the shop with
n 2

180 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
good-natured shouldering and hustling, and began to pile up
the articles they wanted with a recklessness that would have
broken the heart of a methodical shopkeeper. They dived
into the great cases, bringing out, with shouts of delight, all
kinds of bon-bons and candies, jams and jellies, which they
laid hold of with the eagerness of children and began to eat
on the spot. The sutler and his assistants could do nothing
but make spasmodic attempts to regulate the distribution of
the stores, which only made the confusion greater, and the
happy crowd elbowed and pushed, and continued to help
themselves in abundance. As each one gathered his stock
of plunder, he was as impatient to pay for it as he had been
to get hold of it, and although the sutler calmly took four
times the price of the goods at Bucharest, the tariff was
never questioned, and bright new gold pieces rattled into his
canvas bag in a stream, making music that would have
delighted a miser. Doubtless the glitter of the gold
blinded his eyes to the scene of indescribable confusion in
his shop.
It was really an interesting and ludicrous spectacle, this merry
attack on the sutler's shop. Colonels and captains, staff i
officers and surgeons, all jostling one another like so many
children at a table full of bon-bons, burying their arms deep
in the cases where the sweets were, loading themselves with
bottles and parcels, laughing and talking and joking all the
time. Officers splashed with mud, their faces tanned and
roughened with exposure, dipped into the pots of jam and
broke open boxes of bon-bons with laughable earnestness, as
if they had been denied sweets since their childhood, and
their early taste had only grown the stronger from long
abstinence. From the bivouac in the snow on the mountain,
where black hard bread and sugarless tea had, perhaps, been :
for days their chief diet, to a shop piled full of delicacies;
this was a change which must be experienced to be realised
in its entire extent, and, notwithstanding the ludicrous aspect
of the performance, it had a serious side which no one could
fail to remark at the moment.
Accustomed always to the luxuries of life in quarters in peace
time, where the duties of the service demand so little of a

PATIENCE OF THE GUARDS. 181
man's mind that he has to invent ways and means of breaking
the monotony of his existence, and balls and parties, dinners
and theatres become stale and distasteful from their constant
repetition and the everlasting sameness of the diversions they
present ; brought up in a society where they were always
received with distinguished consideration, on account of their
position as officers of the Guard ; rarely or never obliged to
expose themselves to bad weather, or to deny themselves any
of the comforts of civilized life ; at home in the principal
cities of Europe, and familiar with the frivolities of Paris in
winter and the gay society of the fashionable bathing-places
, in summer — these same young men find themselves now in a
half-civilized country in winter, with snow and mud ankle
deep. A thin tent, or at the best a dirty, vermin-infested
hut is their shelter ; none of the luxuries and not all the
necessaries of life are at their command ; exposed to cold and
wet almost constantly ; no strangers to hunger, dirt, and even
rags, and in continual danger of their lives from the bullets
of a merciless enemy in circumstances when to be wounded
at all seriously is certain death from the yataghan of the
Turk, or the long and difficult transport to the hospitals —
can any one wonder that they keenly feel the difference in
their lives that this war has brought about, and sometimes
forgej; the honour they may win, and the devotion they as
soldiers owe to their country, and long for the return of peace
for their own sakes ?
The patience with which they endure the hardships of this
campaign, of which the majority had not the remotest con
ception, is, I must confess, surprising ; and they are deserving
the most unqualified praise for their cheerfulness and hope
fulness under most trying circumstances. Their bravery
stands already recorded, so I need only add my testimony to
the rest. As I saw them gorging themselves with sweet
things like spoilt children, a similar train of thoughts to that
written above came to my mind, and while laughing with
the rest, I was reflecting a little on the difference between
Orkanieh and St. Petersburg. The Russians have a sweet
tooth of extraordinary dimensions if the amount of preserves
and bon-bons sold by the sutler is any gauge. An exchange

182 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of a dozen or more napoleons for a small collection of sweets ¦
is frequently made in that little shop, and if the tobacco
and tea, the candles and simple groceries, be added, the gains
of the merchant will be seen to be enormous. The final
arrangement made for the accommodation of the officers was
to let them in one by one by the back door, which is provided
with a " Judas," like the entrance to the lodge of a secret
society. Through this hole the guardian within can see
whether those who demand admission wear the shoulder-
straps or not. If he be not thus decorated he is ordered
unceremoniously away, unless he can prove by some friend
within that he is one of the elect. Some amusing cases of
mistaken identity have occurred when officers have come in
fur coats or in undress. The soldiers only have access to the
treasures within through a long ¦ low window in the street,
and here they stand in a crowd all day long and reach over
each other's heads and clamour for salt and sugar, tobacco
and matches, and are served as rapidly as the attendance on
the officers within will permit. The proprietor has now
opened a restaurant in a large room over the shop, where a
long bill of fare is presented, and a festival is constantly
going on, celebrating the surrender of Plevna. The front of
the building is ornamented with a great sign in white letters
painted on black enamelled cloth, telling everybody that the
sutler of the Officers of the Guard is situated there. There
is no need of this advertisement.
If I have lingered rather long over this one shop in the town,
it is because until the news from Plevna it was the only
thing there was to talk about. The positions on the moun
tains were the same as they were two weeks ago ; the thick
fog prevented any view of the surrounding landscapes, and
the deep mud limited all promenades in the chilly air to
those from the house to the sutler's shop and return. Life
here was growing monotonous, even if the round of broiled
mutton and black bread were broken by the fresh luxuries,
and as there are few houses where a fire can be lighted, the
day was divided between the attempt to keep warm and the
time spent at meals. As the sailor at sea gets to count his
time only by the appearance of the plum duff, being more or

THE " BRATOUSCHKA." 183
less uncomfortable all the rest of the week, and without any
other diversion to look forward to, so, I dare say, the greater
part of the present inhabitants of Orkanieh count their days
as only so many meals. This does not sound much like the
story of an active campaign, but such a pause as we have
had in the Balkans, after a week or two full of incidents and
action, seems unusually long and monotonous, and not the
less tedious because it may be broken at any moment. No
one may venture to settle into anything like fixed, com
fortable life, for to-morrow morning at daybreak the baggage
may be piled in haste upon the pack-horses, and we may be
hurrying away to another town. Now that the days are very
short, the sun scarcely gets above the mountains and then
rarely penetrates the mist that hangs over us. A visit to the
positions occupies all the time between daybreak and dark,
and one is fortunate if he does not have to spend the night
in the mountains, as, indeed, I have done on several occasions
lately. On the mountains the snow is several inches deep,
and the cold, of course, much greater than here in the valley
where it has yet been only a little below feezing point. From
the summit near the pass the whole plain of Sofia looks as
smooth and white as a frozen lake, and there is much more
snow on that side than on this.
The " Bratouschka '' is a constant subject of examination and
discussion. He plays an important role in this mountain
campaign, for the native is the only one who serves as a
guide, since the maps are all useless in details of the surface.
Bulgarians, too, bake the bread, returning, weight for weight,
bread for the salt and flour that is given them. They repair
the roads, help to haul the cannon up the mountains, serve
as volunteers, and are caught, very many of them, as spies
from the other side ; generally for prudent reasons preferring
to serve the army that gives no quarter. The Bulgarian of
the mountains gets more sympathy from the Russians, and
the soldiers and the people fraternize more here than on the
plain, for reasons I have given in previous letters, but he is
far from being received as worthy of the efforts of his
liberators.
Between the Turks and the Russians, the Bulgarian who is

184 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
found in the track of the armies, naturally enough, fares
rather badly. It is my firm belief that he now considers the
Russian quite as much his oppressor as the Turk, for as long
as the Turks had possession here the peasant still had
some cattle, and some of his harvest. When the Russians
came they requisitioned his cattle for beef, his harvest for
fodder, and now he stands with only the roof that covers his
head, a few napoleons in his pocket which have been paid for
his crops and his cattle, and he is helpless because he can buy
nothing even with the money he has. The Cossacks, who
receive nothing from the Government for their rations, and
are, allowed to forage, do not always stop to discuss whether
anything they want is Bulgarian or Turkish, nor can they be
expected to do so. The Moldavians who drive the supply
waggons are as lawless as brigands, and being badly off,
themselves forage when there is an opportunity, so there is an
advance guard and a rear guard of foragers wherever the
army goes. It is only the enormous size of the crops that has
enabled the country to stand so long the drain on its resources
for the nourishment of such a multitude of horses as
accompany the Russian army.
The experience of the inhabitants of Orkanieh when the Turks
retreated was quite dramatic. They were ordered to pack up
all their effects, and leave with the troops, which they did the
day before the Russians took possession of the town. That
night the slow procession of heavily-laden ox-carts, with its
escort of men, women, and children of all ages, from the
babies in arms to the tottering old people, numbering several
hundred families, made its way through the snow and mud as
far as the gorge in the mountains beyond Vraceni. Here a
halt was made for the night, and the people, finding that the
Turks kept careless guard over them, began to stroll away
into the mountains towards Pravca. The night was dark and
cold, and motion in any direction was preferable to a bivouac
in the ravine, where the wind from the mountain whistled
down upon the shivering multitude and threatened to freeze
them in their tireless camp. One by one the families strayed
off, carrying such of their household goods as they could in
the darkness lay their hands upon, but leaving, of course

MISERY OF THE FUGITIVES. 185
the greater part of their effects and all their live stock in the
hands of the Turks. A few mountaineers who knew the paths
led the way, and along the track made by them in the damp
snow followed the rest, at first hopelessly, and then urged on
by fear of pursuit until the flight became a panic. Some
threw away their burdens and outer garments, mothers grown
wild with the terrors of the darkness and the dreaded Turks
dropped their children, and dragged themselves along half
dead with exhaustion and fear. The mountain paths,
difficult in the light of day, were full of pitfalls and
dangerous places, and some in the darkness fell over the
precipices and were killed or badly injured. But the Turks,
probably occupied too much with their own safety, did not
pursue even after the flight was discovered, and the fugitives
suffered only from imaginary terrors. All night long the
painful flight continued, and at morning the majority of the
families had reached Pravca.
A more miserable band of human beings was never assembled
than the multitude which, having left Orkanieh on one day
with their piled-up ox-carts, dragged themselves back into
the town the next day, wet, exhausted, completely stripped of
everything valuable they possessed in the way of household
effects and implements of trade or cultivation. The town,
which when they left was half sacked, was now completely
gutted, and Russian soldiers were scouring every nook and
corner for plunder. Broken doors and windows, a fireless
hearth, rooms emptied of furniture and strewn with the
debris of shattered pottery and broken glass, welcomed them
to their only home ; and even this shelter was a grateful one
after the exposure of the night. This is the story that has
been related to me by several of those who lived through the
trials of that day and night. The present condition of these
people is an all-sufficient witness to the truth of their state
ments in the main, and although a few of the inhabitants of
Orkanieh have managed to save some pieces of furniture and
their kitchen utensils and bedding, there are many other
families who have scarcely the clothing to keep them warm,
or dishes to cook their food. They cannot starve or freeze
while the Russians are here, for the soldiers who are quartered

186 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in the houses keep up a good fire, and are generous enough
with their food, and there is plenty of corn and other rations
captured from the Turks. But misery which seems endnr-
able in summer has quite a different aspect when the snow is
on the ground ; and the poverty of cold is the hardest to
bear.
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Orkanieh, on Sofia Eoad,
December 15th. — The positions of the two armies on the moun
tains have not changed for the past ten days. Both lines have
been strengthened, and more guns put in place, but neither
side has made any serious offensive movement. The fogs have
been almost continuous until within a day or two, causing
complete cessation of the cannonade, which went on con
stantly as long as fine weather lasted, with no apparent result,
it is true, but doubtless to the discomfort of the Turks who
were labouring on the earthworks. The Russian batteries are
so much lower than those of the enemy that it is impossible to
see the effect of shelling; while, on the other hand, the
Turkish guns have a short, easy range, almost down upon the
heads of the Russian gunners, and the shells frequently hit
their mark. The weakest point of the Turkish line is just
where it is by nature best intended for defence, namely, the
summit of the mountain.
The great redoubt here was taken by three companies of the line
two weeks ago, and given up again for want of support, as I
have previously described. West of this redoubt, on the
middle one of the three knolls on the summit is a fine of
breastworks, but the third knoll, after having been for some
days debatable ground, was at last occupied by the Russians,
who immediately planted two cannon there. As this is the
natural bastion of the principal Turkish position — the com
manding position in fact — it was a great mistake on their part
to permit it to come into Russian hands, for here the latter
have a foothold within 500 yards of the Turkish line, and in
a position whence an assault is practicable. At almost every
other point along the lines the opposing fortifications are
separated by the valley, narrow but deep, and while the troops
are within easy range of each other, they are nevertheless a

AN ARCTIC LANDSCAPE. 187
considerable distance apart by the paths they would be obliged
to take to assault each other. At Count Schouvaloff's position
the entrenchments are not over 100 yards apart, and the
conversation of the Turks can be easily heard. When the
thick curtain of opaque mist hides the enemy, the effect of
the talking and bustle in their lines, as it is magnified by the
fog, is surprising. It seems as if one could almost touch them
with a sword's point. The Turkish fortifications are now so
much strengthened and perfected, that I am inclined to
believe that the day when they could be carried by direct
assault — as indeed the largest or part of the largest redoubt
was taken on November 29 — is now past, and that the pass
can only be freed by some movement which will make the
positions defending it untenable. How the problem will be
solved will doubtless be decided before the end of the month.
There is little question but that General Gourko must soon
advance or soon retire from the positions he has gained with
so much skill and energy. Bleak mountain tops are not
favourable spots for bivouacs, and although the cold has not
yet been very intense, we have had a sufficient degree to give
a good idea of what life on the mountains will be when the
winter settles down in earnest, and the snow lies three feet or
more deep. Even now the mountain landscape has quite an
Arctic aspect, peak on peak as white and unbroken as the
summits of the highest Alps, and the plain of Sofia in the
distance completely snow carpeted. The soldiers accommodate
themselves to the snow and cold very well. They have plenty
of fresh meat and soup, are warmly clad, and, considering the
difficulties of the campaign, as well off as could be expected.
There is very little sickness yet among them.

188 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

CHAPTER VII.
THE RUSSIANS AND THEIR PRISONERS.
The Czar's arrival in Bucharest— Public Rejoicings and Illuminations — Contrast of
scenes in Plevna after the Surrender — Forlorn condition of the Town— Pain
ful scenes — Abandonment of the Wounded — Terrible sufferings — Narrative of
recent events in the Town — Tardy efforts for Relief — Horrors of Removal of
the Dead and Wounded — Neglect of proper Arrangements — Scenes in the
Valley of the Vid— The situation on the 17th December — Forecasts of the
War — Treatment of Prisoners Captured by the Russians — Another glance at
Plevna — The Roumanian Soldiers — Parade of Troops before the Emperor—:
Labours of the Red Cross Society — Dr. Fraser's Ministration — Habits of the
Turkish Officers — Conversation with Edhem Pacha — Prisoners on the way to
Fratesti — An Etape or Hospice — Privations and Illtreatment of Prisoners on
the March — A little Sister of Mercy — A Roumanian Barrack. — A more dis
tinguished Prisoner — Osman Pacha in Captivity — Return of Prince Charles to
Bucharest.
On the morning of the 17th December, Bucharest put on its
gayest colours ; for on that day his Majesty the Emperor of
Russia was to pass through the Roumanian capital en route for
St. Petersburg, spending a few hours in the city on his way.
Wherever the eye fell in the essentially French-looking streets
of shops and public buildings, the Russian and Roumanian
flags were seen entwined in token of friendship and union.
Venetian masts were as frequent as the lamp-posts along the
pavement, and here and there triumphal arches bespoke the
enthusiasm, if not the sense of artistic beauty, which had
inspired their constructors. Everybody desired to welcome the
Czar on the fall of Plevna. The Emperor arrived about noon,
and drove to the palace through a dense multitude, and between
double lines of the National Guard. As he left at night, illumi
nations, amidst which devices enclosing the words Plevna and
Kars were frequent, made the whole city brilliant ; nor could
public rejoicings have been more complete.

A VISIT TO PLEVNA. 189
Meanwhile, far other scenes were enacting in the town of
Plevna, where even the horrors of the long investment
were destined to be thrown into the shade by incidents
still more terrible and heart-rending. Little, perhaps, would
have been known of these facts, but for the energy of the cor
respondent then at the head-quarters of General Gourko, to
whose pen the readers are already indebted for many brilliant
narratives and picturesque descriptions of military operations,
and of the country in which they were taking place. This
correspondent was at Orkanieh when news arrived of the fall of
Plevna. His chosen task was to follow General Gourko's marvel
lous campaign in the mountains ; but the inclement weather no
less than reasons of strategy had for a brief time suspended
active operations in the Balkans on both sides. Besides
this, there was reason to fear that his comrade, whose pen
has already described in such full details the incidents of the
surrender of Osman Pacha and his troops, might at the moment
-be elsewhere on other duty. These considerations were sufficient
to induce the writer of the following letter to ride away at
once in the direction of Plevna, whither in spite of the difficul
ties arising from the condition of the country, he arrived on
the day of those public festivities and bright displays in Bucharest,
already referred to. What he saw in Plevna and what reflec
tions were suggested to a writer not unused to scenes of warfare,
and the spectacle of human suffering, will be learnt from his
narrative : —
+ Plevna, December 17th. — Plevna is full of horrors, and after
the turmoil of the past four months the complete silence now
seems strange and oppressive. As I rode into the town along
the Loftcha road the other evening just after sunset, not a
sound broke the dead quiet, and the only living thing I met
was here and there a stray dog, which slunk away to his hor
rible meal among the shallow graves in front of the redoubts
on the hills. The deserted breastworks that crossed the road
at frequent intervals seemed quite purposeless. It was utterly

190 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
impossible to realize that here, on the very spot, only a few
days before we had scurried across the open places, and
dodged behind the mounds of earth, while the rattle of the
rifles went on continually, and the air was filled with the
singing of the bullets that just here had swept, again and
again, the lines of the assailing forces, and that many thou
sands had failed within a stone's throw.
From the shoulder of the hill called Aroden, where the road
winds around under the embrasures of the redoubts which
were stormed by General Skobeleff with such fearful loss,
Plevna was seen lying low down in the valley, and only one
or two twinkling lights showed that it was inhabited. All
around on every side the whole landscape was quiet as the
desert. No lines of blue smoke and little camp fires now
marked the trenches. Not a single tent broke the bare
surface of the hillsides, and only the great square redoubts
and the zig-zag line of breastworks proved that this was the
Plevna of a week ago. With all the vivid recollections of
the various incidents of the siege, the most active imagina
tion could not picture the thousandth part of the fright
ful suffering, the awful misery and wretchedness, that are
found within the narrow limits of the town, nor draw the
faintest outline of the sickening spectacle, the panorama of
ghastly horrors, that is almost unparalleled since the terrible
Plagues of past centuries. Human beings lying like sheep in
the streets; houses filled with dead; hundreds stretching
their hands feebly heavenward for a morsel of bread or a
drop of water, and no help that could be commanded to
alleviate their sufferings or save the wretched creatures from
their painful death. Even in the midst of these scenes, which
the pen of Dante alone could render, with all the terrible
rhythm of the poem attracting every ear with its irresistible
force — even after days of constant contract with human suf
fering in every form, with death in every aspect, I can scarcely
bring myself to repeat the story of what has passed in Plevna
since the surrender. I have become in a measure callous
now to what I see every hour in the day, yet the horror of
the first few momentary impressions is still so vividly
impressed upon me that I cannot refer to it without pain.

NEGLECT OF THE WOUNDED. 191
When the Turks made the sortie they left the sick and
wounded, of whom there were thousands, entirely without
attendants. There was never a regular hospital in Plevna,
the sick being transported to Sofia, and the small ambulance
corps was at all times insufficient to care for the wounded,
even before the town was surrounded. Of course the atten
dants at the hospital thought only of their own safety when
the sortie was made, and they joined their lot with those who
tried to break through the Russian lines. The day and night
of the battle passed, and the sufferers received no food or
water, and their festering wounds were undressed. The fol
lowing morning the Russians entered and took possession, and
made the day one of rejoicing with the visit of the Czar and
the Imperial staff ; but this celebration of the event, however
short it may have seemed to the victors, was a long season of
horrible suffering for the wretched helpless captives, who
stretched their skeleton hands in vain towards heaven, pray
ing for a bit of bread or a drop of water. Neither friend nor
foe was there to alleviate their sufferings, or to give the trifle
needed to save them from a painful death, and they died by
hundreds ; and before the morning of the third day the dead
crowded the living in every one of those dirty, dimly -lighted
rooms which served to shelter the wounded from the cold and
and wet, but confined them in a foul and fcetid atmosphere of
disease and death.
It was only on the morning of the third day after these
wretched, tortured creatures had been left to their fate, that
the Russians found opportunity and means to begin, first, the
separation of the living from the dead, and then the care of
the former. The mosques, the largest houses, and many of
the small dwellings had been filled with sick and wounded.
Overcrowded in every case, and as I have before said, from
the first without proper attention, these temporary hos
pitals were, at the best, most filthy and pestilential, and the
air was tainted with the stench of undressed wounds, and
the corpses which lay unburied in the courtyards.
The first room entered in one of these charnel-houses con
tained ninety odd Turks. Of these, thirty-seven were dead
and many others on the point of death. Piteous groans

192 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
came from ' between rigid lips, and painful cries for water,
and some made feeble signs for food. One or two of
the strongest raised themselves, and fixed their hideous,
sunken eyes with such a beseeching stare on those whq had
come to free them from the company of the dead, that it
would have softened the hardest heart. The small room,
dimly lighted by a high window with one pane of glass, was
crowded with forms of thirty or forty ragged, filthy, human
beings. Many of these forms were motionless, and scarcely
audible groans were heard from one or two who raised with
difficulty their bony hands to their lips, to signify their need of
food. There were faint whispers of " Some water ! " " Some
water ! " piteous to hear. The dim light was concentrated on
the half-naked body of an old man stretched across the
entrance, whither he had dragged himself in the last hours
of his agony in hope of succour, or at least of a breath of
fresh air ; for in the unventilated room the air was thick with
putrid odours, which burst out when the door was opened,
overpowering strong men, and causing them to turn sick and
faint. The old man's hands were clutched in the rigour of
painful death on his nude and meagre breast, and his head
lay against the very crack of the door, so that it opened only
by rude force. Living and dead were lying together undis-
tinguishable along the walls behind the door and under the
window.
This room is one of fifty where a similar spectacle is presented.
The pavement of the mosques is covered with crouching
forms, some moving at intervals, others motionless and silent.
Here and there the faces of the dead come out in ghastly
relief, with a fixed expression of great agony.
Nothing can be done but to drag the dead from among the
living, let in the light and air, and give water and nourish
ment in hope of saving some of those who remain alive. Small
enough was the force of men who set about this painful task,
and meagre enough their means. Three open peasants' ox
carts were all that were available for the removal of the
dead, and fifty soldiers to carry the bodies from the rooms to
the carts, and bury them in the ditches. As fast as possible,
bread and water were distributed, and the feeble wretches

THE LIVING AND THE DEAD. 193
fought each other with their last breath in their greed
for the nourishment. Some, propped up against the wall,
slowly ate until the unmistakable pallor came over their
faces, and their eyes were fixed in death. Even the effort of
eating the long-needed food was too great for their waning
strength. The living clutch at the remaining morsel in the
dead man's hand, struggle for it with all their feeble power,
and curse each other and wrangle over the spoil, perhaps to
fall dead themselves before they can eat the bread.
The three open oxen-carts began the removal of the dead at
once, and as I write the work still goes on. The hospitals
daily supply more freight of this kind than the slow-moving
teams can carry aw; y to the ditches outside. The disinfec
tion of the hospitals was promptly effected. As fast as
possible, with the small force of men at hand, the rooms
were emptied one after another. After a day or two, some of
the Bulgarians were compelled to serve in place of the
soldiers, and they set themselves about the hated task with
a brutality terrible to witness. They drag the bodies down
the stairs by the legs, the heads bumping from step to step
with sickening thuds, then out into the court through the
filthy mud, where they sling them into the cart with the
heads or legs hanging over the side, and so continue to pile
up the load with a score of half-naked corpses.
It is horrible to hear the conversation of the men who do this
work. They perhaps bring out a body still warm, the heart
still beating, and the flush of life on the cheek. One says,
" He is still alive," and proposes to leave him without stop
ping to decide the question. The others cry, " Devil take
him ! He will die before to-morrow, any way. In with him."
And so the living goes in with the dead, and is tumbled into
the grave. I have seen this myself, and the man who has
charge of the disinfection of the hospitals and burial of the
dead, told me that he doubted not that such cases occurred
several times daily. When the three carts are full they
start away through the streets toward the ditches outside
the town. The horrible load jolts and shakes, and now and
then a body falls out into the mud, and is dragged into the
cart again, and thrown down and jammed in solidly to pre-
VOL. II. 0

194 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
vent a recurrence of the accident. This heartless proceeding
goes on in the public streets, crowded with the men, women, '
and children of the place, the soldiers, the wounded, and the
sick ; and after so many days of the same spectacle, no one
any longer pays any attention to the transport of the dead.
Over a thousand have been already carted away, and from
the hospitals come about a hundred daily.
The care of the sick and wounded is now rapidly being systema
tized. The few Russian doctors that are detailed for the
service are working very hard, and also the Turkish surgeons
who remain here ; but the corps is not one quarter large
enough to properly attend to the patients. Some of the
hospitals are light, airy, and well purified ; but the mosques
are still dark, foul-smelling, and crowded. The dead lie for
many hours unattended, and the horrible sights and sounds
defy description. In the midst of this, the few Russian
Sisters of Charity move about quietly busy from daybreak
till dark, bringing comfort to hundreds whose wounds they
dress, and whose pains they alleviate.
I have given but a slight outline of the scenes that have passed,
before my eyes since I came here. A long detailed account,1
alone could give anything like an idea of the climax and final
act of the drama of Plevna. The town is full of similar
pictures. Along the streets are frequently seen one or two
wounded who have crawled out from the hospital, and he dying
in the mud. There is no valid excuse for this wilful disregard
of human life. The cause is evident, namely, lack of system.
The Russians knew that Plevna must fall, and they expected
to find thousands of starving: men there, and thousands of
badly-attended wounded. The surrender must have been, as1
it probably wras, a surprise, but the day before the expected
event was not the time to prepare for it. There should have
been detailed a month ago proper officers to prepare every
thing for the care of the surrendered troops. There can be
no excuse for the fact that only three open ox-carts can he
found to transport the dead, and only a score of Bulgarians,
who run away at every opportunity, can be detailed to
perform the duty of burying the dead. Out on the plain,
near the bridge over the Vid, are bivouacked 15,000 or 20,000

THE VALLEY OF THE VID. 195
prisoners, fighting for bread, miserable beyond description,
in the cold, with hundreds of unburied dead covering the
ground near the spot where the first attempt was made to
break through, and day after day passes and their condition
does not change, simply because there can be nothing like
prompt attention in similar cases where there is no idea of
system. The story of the hospitals, of the prisoners, and of
the Russian disasters, all hang on one thread.
But the horrors of Plevna are not all in the town. Some are
in the Valley of the Vid. In the redoubts which the Russians
stormed, hundreds on hundreds of still unburied bodies lie ;
the whole ridge of the wooded mountain, the valley beyond,
and the hill further on, where stand the two redoubts over
looking the town, taken with terrible loss by General Skobeleff
on September 30, are strewn thickly with the corpses of the
Russians who fell on those days. Some of these bodies have
been partly covered with four spadesf ull of dirt, but most of
them, lie as they fell. Not all as they f elL for the dogs have
torn away the limbs of many, and the birds of prey have
pecked at the skulls. In the pools of water lie corpses
half decayed ; pale, withered hands and feet stick out of the
soil on all sides, and horrible, dead, mummified faces stare at
one from every little hollow in the ground, and from among
every clump of bushes. Some of these bodies have been put
in graves within a day or two, but still the whole region is
strewn thickly with these dreadful mementoes of the fight
there nearly three months ago.
Around the redoubts the ground is furrowed and dug with
thousand of shells, and tons of pieces cover the earth. It is
interesting to observe how few shells went into the redoubts,
or struck the edge of the redoubts. The majority plunged
into the ground just in front. The Turks built great traverses
across the redoubts, and under these dug deep bombproof
shelters, where they were as safe from harm from the shells
as in Constantinople ; but the whole surface of the hills is
literally riddled with holes large enough to bury horses in,
and all about lie great unexploded shells. Even away back
in the ravines where the soldiers' huts are, bullets, fragments
of clothing and equipments, cover the ground ; and one
o 2

196 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
frequently finds in the most unexpected spots long-unburied
bodies, or sodden in the path one sees the limbs of human
beings who fell and were left there until many feet passing
trod hard the thin layer of earth over them.
Plevna is one vast charnel-house, surpassing in horror anything
that can be imagined.
The following letter is in great degree of a speculative kind ;
but it will be found of interest as presenting the view of the
situation immediately after the most important event of the
war, as it presented itself to the mind of a writer thoroughly
qualified to comprehend and judge the position of affairs : —
* Bucharest, December 17th. — What next ? is the natural ques
tion now that Plevna has fallen.
I believe that in anticipation of the event, opinions in Russian
military councils were somewhat divided. Todleben was in
favour of sitting down before Rustchuk and Silistria, and
reducing these Danube fortresses before undertaking further
operations. This project obviously entailed the abandonment
for the present of the trans-Balkan operations. Todleben is
a soldier, but the new phase of the situation looks thick with
considerations other than purely military ones. An alternative
scheme, favoured in the Grand Duke's headquarters, is an
immediate advance on Adrianople over the Shipka Pass. To
energetic leaders this scheme could present now no serious!
obstacle. A force is available for taking Gourko's attitude of!
watching and withstanding the Turkish army in Orkanieh"
and Sofia. Gourko would then be at liberty to push through
the more easterly passes into the valley about Slatitza, and
then turning sharp to the left, along the southern foot of the
higher Balkan chain through the Prohod gap, by Derbend,
to Sopol, and on by Karlovo and Kalofer, reach the vicinity
of Shipka and Kezanlik, in a position to attack Beonf
Pacha's force in the rear, while Radetzki, from the heights of
Shipka, attacked him in front. Reouf must run or stand to
be shattered. In either case the road towards Adrianople
would stand open, and the Russians would be rewarded fa

WHAT NEXT ? 197
the prolonged and arduous grip they have maintained on the
Shipka heights. From Plevna, vid Selvi and Gabrovo, to
Shipka would be but a few days' easy marching for the Grand
Duke's headquarters, leading on the Guards, and a week
might see concentrating about Kezanlik an army of eighty
thousand men, which could now meet with no serious impedi
ment on the road to Adrianople ; while the Russian strength
now across the Danube would admit of leaving sufficient
troops north of the Balkans to ensure the safety of the com
munications in the rear.
I believe that at the army headquarters a strong predilection
¦ exists in favour of this project, but that another course has
been, at least temporarily, dictated by the more diplomatic
element of the Imperial headquarters. I believe the mot
d'ordre of the Russians is for the present to remain quiescent,
and let the situation simmer in the hearts and minds of the
Turks. General Ignatieff, I am informed, is the leading
advocate of this inaction. His advice, springing no doubt
, from knowledge of the Turkish character, if indeed he did
not bring something more definite with him when he came to
headquarters the other day, the elaborate courtesy to Osman
Pacha, and the good treatment of the Turkish army of
Plevna are full of significance, and as if by signal the tone
of the Russians, both civil and military, is quite altered in
relation to the Turks, whose atrocities are wholly forgotten
in favour of their prowess.
I have spoken with many Russians of position, who do not
disguise their opinion that the moment is eminently favourable
for the approach to negotiations direct between Russia and
Turkey, as the parties most interested, and on a basis of
individual or rather common personal interests, rather than
with regard to complications of what are known as European
interests ; but this view is purely a Russian one. In more
general circles the opinion prevails that a vigorous effort will
be made to settle the Eastern Question by the three Emperors,
to the exclusion of England from a voice in the settlement,
and with the introduction of provisions which will scarcely
meet her approval, while they will fail to present a cause for
active remonstrance. Many people know perfectly well that

198 WAR CORRESPONDENCE. f
in August a last intimation, or rather, indeed, a warning, was
given to the Russian Emperor that England could not be
restrained from hostile action in the event of Russia
persevering so far as to engage in a second campaign, and so
prolong the disturbed condition of Eastern Europe. That
notice was not indeed official, or even Ministerial, but the
peculiar and delicately personal character of it gave it at
least equal weight, and probably this was intended, as it
certainly was felt. One result of it has been so far satis-
factory that the Russians have prosecuted the war vigorously
until now, instead of going into winter quarters; but, I
venture to ask : Suppose events so shape themselves that the
now victorious Russians, disregarding this warning, harden
their hearts for a second campaign, what then ? It is true
that the fortunes of war change with the moon ; . but are
changed fortunes of war to invalidate deliberately uttered
words ? For we may well hope, and that for more reasons
than most among us know, that no second campaign will occur
to complicate relations or to invalidate virtual pledges.
In the next letter we have some details of the treatment
of the prisoners captured by the Russians and removed into
Roumania, with some further particulars of the latter days
of the investment of Plevna.
+ + Bucharest, November 25th. — There was a little excitement
here yesterday concerning Messrs Vachell and Douglas, the
two English surgeons who were captured by the Russians,
and whose arrival in Bucharest I have already reported. The
Russian authorities here had received orders from head
quarters to forward these two gentlemen on to St. Petersburg
at once, but Mr. Vachell, who had been suffering from
dysentery for some time, was in such a precarious condition
on his arrival here that a long journey might have cost him
his life. The Russian military authorities, however, refused
at first to listen to the entreaties of his friends, and simply
stated that the orders received must be obeyed, and it was
not until our consul protested in a most energetic manner

THE ENGLISH HOSPITALS. 199
that permission was given for them to remain a few days
longer at Bucharest. They accordingly remain here as
prisoners of war. I think that if the rights of the affair
were known, it would be found that some mistake must have
occurred in the order, because from the kind and excessively
friendly treatment which these two surgeons received at the
hands of the Grand Duke at Bogot, it was evidently never
intended that they should be treated as prisoners of war
here. I believe I am right in stating that is the opinion of
the two gentlemen themselves.
In the letters below, a correspondent at Bucharest describes
the condition and arrangement of the English hospitals in
Bucharest and Turna Magurelle.
§ Bucharest, November 26th. — Turning out of the Strada
Criovi, we pass through a gateway over which flutters a
little red-cross flag, and we find ourselves in the "English
Relief Fund Hospital." Up a staircase, through a room set
apart for stores, and we are shown into the wards. After
the dirt and turmoil of a Bucharest street, the quiet order
and cleanliness is very marked. The object of the hospital
is to succour the Roumanian wounded, and it was started
about two months ago by Dr. and Mrs. Mower. The staff
consists of Dr. Mower and Dr. Lamson ; the number of beds
about thirty. The hospital consists of five rooms, with eight,
eight, six, four, four beds respectively. The cubic space
allowed to each man is quite equal to what would be con
sidered sufficient in a tropical climate, and here of course is
even more than is required. A bath-room, with a large
English bath, probably a new spectacle to all the patients, a
kitchen and out-offices, the doctor's room, and operating room
complete the establishment. The Roumanian Government
find the house and allow sixty centimes a man daily for
rations, the rest is entirely supported by English money —
the house painted, carpeted, and fitted up ; beds, blankets,
medicine, surgical instruments, the very best medical advice
and attendance — in fact, a model hospital is the result. The

200 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
cases are" principally bullet wounds, and mostly in the hand,
which points rather to men firing over a parapet without
taking aim, but this can scarcely be the case here, as most of
the men were wounded in the second great attack on Plevna.
Gangrene is very common, partially, I am told, owing to the
length of time that necessarily elapses between the first
dressing of the wounds on the field and when they are at
tended to in the hospital — in some cases so much as five and
six days elapsing without the original dressing being taken
off, also to the low state some of the men are in when wounded,
from hard work, wet, and insufficient food. Watching the
wounded men as they follow with grateful eyes every move
ment of Mrs. Mower and her lady assistants convinces one of
the effectual way nursing is here carried out and the kindness,
that accompanies it. The business part of the establishment
seems to be equal to its cleanliness, and I was especially
struck with the thoughtfulness of the arrangement of having
" brassards " to put on the wounded men's arms, so that all
could tell that those thus marked would be taken care of in
the English Relief Fund Hospital. The success attending
the hospital is shown by the return of deaths, which at
present is nil.
From the 'Strada Criovi we went to the English hospital at
the Ecole Militaire, where the English hospital started by
the National Aid Society, under Dr. M'Nalty, was established
about six weeks ago. What I have already said about the
hospital in the Strada Criovi applies to this one. The object
is the same ; the care, cleanliness, and medical science equally
apparent. The staff consists of Dr. M'Nalty, who, every
body here is sorry to hear, is recalled to his official duties at
the War Office; Drs. Connolly, Pattison, and Stephens.
This staff has at the same time to look after a hospital at
Turna-Magurelle, and also thirty-seven beds just given over
in the Mai Maison here in Bucharest. We were fortunate
in arriving just at the patients' dinner time. " A much better
dinner than you can get at the front for twelve francs," re
marked one of the party, and there is a good deal more of it
too. Number of beds eighty-two. Cheerful patients in
cheerful rooms applies to all the cases except one, that of a

THE RED CROSS. 201
man who has taken it into his head that he would like to
starve to death. I need hardly say that his wishes on this
point are not much consulted by his doctor and nurses. The
same kind of casualties meet one again ; bullet wounds,
principally on the hands, a few shell wounds. Gangrene and
dysentery complete the list. One peculiar case was pointed
out to us by Dr. Stephens, who kindly accompanied us round —
a man struck on the left arm when in the act of firing ; the
bullet passed through the forearm half-way between the wrist
and the elbow, and through the side of the biceps, without
touching the bone, and seemingly without in any way de
stroying the muscular action of the arm.
The number of deaths are two ; number turned out cured fifty-
five. There is now room for more inmates, which I hear will
be filled up by the wounded from the Rahova action. On
every side, both inside the hospital and throughout Bucharest,
one hears of the great services rendered by Mrs. Mansfield,
the wife of the English Consul, both personally and by her
influence, to this hospital, and it is willingly allowed by all
that a large part of its success is due to her untiring energy.
We were shown a kind of tilt, made as a cover for the country
carts in which the wounded have to be carried. It is made
of strong tarred canvas, stretched on arch-shaped ribs of
wood, marked with the red cross and " Societe Nationale
Britannique." Twenty-five of these, together with blankets
and beds for the carts, at a cost of a little over 100 francs
each, have been given by the National Aid Society to the
regiment that the Prince the late Duke of Leuchtenberg
commanded. I hear that the tilts have proved of such great
use that it is contemplated having more made.
I hope to be at Turna-Magurelle in a day or so, when I shall
visit the hospital there.
§ Turna-Magurelle, November 27th. — I went round the
wards of the Red Cross Hospital here yesterday. The
four buildings that, make up the hospital are situated about
half a mile from the town, are oblong in shape, the side
walls, made of "wattle and daub" on stout timber frames ;
the roof consists of sticks of the same size, and put together

202 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in the same way as those used for fascines. A slight coating
of straw thatch completes a most serviceable and waterproof
bit of work. The hospital was started about the beginning
of September, and is under the direction of Dr. Failla, who
ie assisted by five resident English surgeons, also by a few
Roumanian surgeons. The number of the latter, however,
varies very considerably, as they are ordered about from one
place to another as wanted. There • are ten nuns and five
priests sent by the Roumanian Government, five sisters of
charity, and fifteen volunteer nurses. Two of the buildings
are wards, and contain at present ninety wounded ; the other
two contain dispensary, sleeping places, eating-rooms, opera
ting room, &c, the whole of the staff living on the premises.
The number of beds is 120.
As I enter the first ward the horrors of war are brought home
to one in the person of the first patient. I see a poor fellow
who was evidently at the time of being wounded lying down
with his head bent well over his rifle, in the position of
aiming, and was struck by a bullet on the left lower jaw. It
passed through the lower part of his mouth, down the right
side of his neck, and finished by breaking his collar-bone.
I am afraid by the account I heard of him his chance of
life is small. The ward I stand in is full of work, noiseless,
certainly, and with no unnecessary movement. At the foot of
one bed stand two English doctors, bending over the
shattered leg of a Roumanian, who, like most of the others,
had been wounded at Rahova. About the room are sisters
of charity and dressers. Bandages are passed, water
brought, and instruments passed in a quick, business-like
way that tells time is precious. Every now and then the
stillness is broken by a groan from some poor fellow writhing
on his bed. A faint smell of carbolic acid is the only taint
in the warm air.
The next ward is a repetition of the first. I ask Dr. Maturin,
who kindly accompanied me round, "Have you no shell
wounds ? " " No ; you see that shell wounds from their very
nature don't admit of a patient being moved very far. This
is a long way from the front." "Any bayonet wounds?"
" I have seen about 500 men here, and only one bayonet

DISTRIBUTION OF THE PRISONERS. 203
wound." We went through the dispensary, dining-rooms,
&c, which are all partitioned off by roughly-sawn boards,
but seem to be well arranged.
The great complaint of the medical men here seems to be of the
long delay that occurs between the time the men are wounded
and when they arrive in the hospital. Some of the Rahova
wounded were jolted about in common open wooden carts for
nearly three days, entirely exposed to the wet and cold, and
a good many of them starved as well. They also complain of
a dressing used at the front, some preparation of iron which
stops bleeding very quickly, but the after effects of which
are very detrimental to recovery. I hear there have been
cases of men standing so long in the water and mud of the
trenches before Plevna that they have been brought out
with their feet and legs in a state resembling frost bite.
This tells a tale of the few reliefs the Roumanians are able
to afford, as with this weather, warm for the time of year,
it would take quite thirty-six hours to bring a man to such a
state.
I heard yesterday from a Roumanian commissariat officer that
of 100 empty waggons sent from Plevna three days ago, only
thirty-six arrived all right, the rest breaking down. The
length of road is under fifty miles. How the wounded are
to be transported over such roads is a problem which will
only be solved by killing many a poor fellow who, with any
thing like a chance, would have recovered.
§ Bucharest, Christmas Day. — The allies have had a hard task
set them to dispose of their prisoners. As soon as possible
the Turks were split up into lots and separated, the Russians
taking 30,000, the Roumanians 10,000. These are the
numbers given out, but I am sure they are above the mark.
The Roumanian prisoners were marched to Verbitza, the
Roumanian headquarters, on the day of capture ; the Russian
prisoners were left at Plevna. Many sick were among them.
Two days before the fall of Plevna and on the day of
capitulation, neither the Russians nor Roumanians had bread
for themselves, owing to the breaking of the bridge across
the Danube at Nicopolis. Consequently, on the 10th, the

204 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Turks got nothing to eat, and some only of them anything
on the 11th. The nights were cold, the Turks thinly clad;
they were encamped in the open, with no food, or next to
none ; the natural result followed — the weak died, and disease
gripped the survivors with a firmer clutch. The Russian
soldier's ration was a loaf of bread, or biscuit in lieu, and a
small piece of meat. The Roumanian's was the same, and
except the biscuit was better. The prisoner's ration was
half a loaf of bread, increased as soon as possible to a whole
loaf. Some of the prisoners died each night, of course,
but as there were many wounded among them, and numbers
of sick, it would be impossible to say how far the necessary
rigours to which the Turks had to submit increased the
number.
On the morning of the 12th I made a careful round of the
town of Plevna. The mosques were full of dead and dying,
the houses in the main street were filled in like manner.
Corpses were lying on the pavement and in the gutters,
passers-by stepping unconcernedly over them. At every
door almost stood a Greek wearing the badge of the red
crescent, dressed suspiciously smartly, with a healthy
appearance quite unlike what one would expect a hard-
worked doctor would be in a fever-stricken, long-besieged
place like this. I was present when the Russians told off
some of their prisoners into separate lots, and saw them
encamped for the night. The arrangements seemed to be
good, and there was as little confusion as one could expect.
On the morning of the 13th I visited the battle-field at day-
break. A thick fog in the valley prevented one from seeing
more than forty or fifty yards. I crossed the Vid by the
permanent bridge, the numbers of dead horses and cattle
showing the terrible execution the Russian artillery did
among the carts crossing the bridge on the 10th. On the
south side of the Sofia road a batch of prisoners were being
moved ; close to the road were four dead belono-ing' to this
party. Some were just able to crawl slowly after their
comrades, two sat helplessly on the ground. A sentry, a
brute who disgraces the Russian infantry of the line, tries
with kicks or blows to drive the two on. One rises,

ROUND PLEVNA. 205
evidently ill, only to totter a few paces and sink again on the
ground. The other, supporting himself on a piece of broken
plank, gets on one leg and tries, by means of his poor
substitute for a crutch, to save his wounded foot. The
Russian sentry drives his bayonet into the knapsack carried
by the wounded Turk with such force that the wretched
man reels forward five or six feet, his groans testifying to
the greatness of his pain. Sick at the sight, and maddened
at one's helplessness to prevent it, I turn and catch up the
main body of the prisoners, as four Russian Guardsmen,
great-coated, looming very giants in a fog, approach from the
opposite direction. One is eating from a big piece of black
bread he carries in his hand ; a Turk begs some ; he divides
his bread, gives a half, and goes cheerfully on his way,
munching the remainder. One of his comrades lags behind,
and after a search that shows money is scarce, produces a
coin, gives it to a prisoner, and follows his comrades. The
fog lifts a little, a battery of artillery comes, jingling across
the road, an ammunition waggon is upset, and for three
minutes I listen and marvel at the fluency of a Russian
officer. Standing up in his stirrups, red in the face, he pours
forth a stream of what is evidently not too polished language.
The waggon on its wheels, I leave the road and wander on
to the battle-field. Another lot of prisoners have here been
moved, and are now crouching on the ground, huddled
together, trying to save their lightly-clad limbs from the
chilling fog.
Further on are ghastly tokens of the last great struggle. At
first bodies in ones and twos, some lying easily, naturally, as
if just fallen asleep, others in positions that would be
grotesque if they were not so unspeakably horrible. The
dead become more numerous, and I know I am approaching
the Russian works, against which the sortie was made.
Presently, from far away across the Vid, in the direction of
Opanlik, come the notes of a band playing a Roumanian
march. The music is taken up from the Plevna road, there
is a stir in the Russian lines, and I hurry back towards the
bridge to see the 48,000 Russians and 12,000 Roumanians
that are this day to parade on the battle-field before the

206 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Emperor. The fog has again lifted a little as I come upon
three battalions of the Russian Guards. Bigger men, better
dressed, or better drilled, no army in the world can produce.
Dressed in their long greatcoats, every man stepping in exact
time, they pass their general in quarter column, and as they
pass he says about three words, which are answered by a
short, sharp, fierce shout quite startling in the suddenness
with which it begins and ends. At the bridge are crossing
some Roumanian regulars. They are headed by the 2nd
Chasseurs, a very skeleton of a regiment of about 130 men,
the rest lie buried on the slopes around Gravitza, all killed on
the 30th August. They differ considerably from the
Russians, who move in a slow, certain, dogged way that
gives one somehow a great idea of power. The Roumanian
regulars are smaller men, and move with a quick, sharp,
French-like action, and are well drilled. Next to the regulars
come the Territorial Roumanian Army, the peasant " Doro-
bantz ; " they move fairly well, and in standing privation and
hardship have proved themselves better men than the regular
army. As the parade is forming up, in company with some
of the officers of General Chernat's staff, we come upon four
Turks lying on the field of battle, and still alive. For four
days without food, without water, exposed to the freezing
cold of four nights, have these poor fellows managed to keep
life in their suffering bodies. They were immediately sent
off on stretchers to the Russian lines. A staff officer
observed that if we, in merely crossing the plain four days
after the battle, stumble on wounded, how many more may
there not be whom nobody has seen.
The parade was a most imposing one, mixed as it was with the
hard reality of war. At the bridge passed by the Emperor
were dead men, horses, and cattle. At each side of the road
down which he drove were the same, intermixed with sick
and a few wounded Turks. A large body of the prisoners
were close to the spot and observers of the parade. The
troops were drawn up in two lines of quarter columns, at
intervals of ten paces between regiments. The second hne
was about fifty paces in rear of the first. The Emperor on
arrival embraced Generals Vetrisky and Daniloff, who com-

PARADE BEFORE THE EMPEROR. 207
manded the reserve and the position attacked by Osman ; ho
also shook hands with Captain Grammartichesen, who com
manded a Roumanian battery of artillery which rendered
good service by its quickness in getting into action. The
parade consisted of an inspection by the Emperor, who,
accompanied by the Grand Duke and Prince Charles, and
followed by a brilliant and enormous staff, passed down the
front line and back by the second. His reception was most
enthusiastic, every regiment cheering the moment it caught
sight of the white flag with the ornamental cross that denoted
the Emperor's presence, and nothing could be more impressive
than the enormous volume of sound produced by the excited
shouts of 60,000 men.
On the way back I could not help thinking that some of the
great number of men who are employed in collecting arms,
ammunition, &c, which everywhere covers the ground on the
Plevna side of the Vid, might have been first used as grave-
diggers and stretcher-bearers. On the night of Saturday the
15th, about 2 inches of snow, accompanied by a considerable
fall of temperature, rendered the condition of the prisoners
worse. On the 16th, batches of prisoners were got off on the
road running to Nicopolis, and on the night of the 17th
arrived there. On the 18th, steady snow began. I arrived at
Alexandria and was there snowed up for four days with a
batch of 4,109 prisoners and their Roumanian guard. As
the conditions of the prisoners are here changed — the
Roumanians are in their own country, they are able to billet
all their prisoners in houses, and provisions are plentiful — I
will deal with them in a separate letter. As a sample of the
cold the Turks have to endure, on the night of the 23rd I
started in a sleigh and at ten o'clock found my bottle of wine
(vin du pays) frozen solid.
§ Bucharest, December 26th. — Winter suddenly set in on the
18th, when I arrived at Alexandria. For forty-eight hours a,
snowstorm raged ; three feet of snow fell. The telegraph wires
broke ; the post ceased to run. The inhabitants, 4,000 Turks,
the Roumanian guard of cavalry and infantry, were all snowed
up. During the four days we were thus cut off from the

208 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
outer world I had the good fortune to see real charity done in
a business-like way by Dr. Fraser, chief of the Red Cross
Society. The conditions under which the prisoners are here
are very different from what they were at the front : — 1st.
The Roumanians are in their own country. 2nd. Supplies
are plentiful. 3rd. Every prisoner has a roof to cover him.
All this is in their favour. Against them are two things : —
1st. The snow lies three feet deep, the frost is most severe, so
hard that if it lasts another week the Danube will be frozen
over. 2nd. Owing to the number of prisoners they are
scattered all over the town, and supervision is impossible.
Again, in favour of the prisoners are the kind hearts of the
Roumanian officers and soldiers ; both are ever ready to help
to do anything to improve their position ; again, against them
is the want of organization on the part of the civil and
military authorities.
The major commanding the guard complained bitterly of the
want of interest taken by the Turkish officers in their men.
He also related how he distributed 500 pairs of sandals to
the worst off of the Turks, and next morning found they had
sold them. " What can we do with such people ? " he very
naturally exclaims. This points to one of three things :— lsl
Want of food. 2nd. Want of tobacco. 3rd. A desire to be
left in this place, as, of course, it would be impossible for a
man to march with bare feet in the snow.
" We gave them meat," says an officer. " Would you believe it ?
— they threw it away." Giving raw meat to a man without a
penny, in a place where the smallest bit of firewood has to
be paid for, is scarcely likely to be of much use to him.
" We gave them cheese then," said the same authority, " they
eat that." What I should have liked to have asked is, "You
gave them this and that, but can you or any one else say of
your own certain knowledge that every single individual got
his share ? " What was done for the Turks by Dr. Fraser was
this : clothing was given to some, tobacco and honey to all.
The clothing was given by his own hands to the person for
whom it was intended. The honey and tobacco were issued
as follows : — By the kindness of the officer commanding, the
Turkish officers, twelve in number, who command divisions,

RELIEF FOR THE PRISONERS. 209
were assembled, also one to represent the minor officers, in
number sixty -nine. To each of these was given a piece of
paper on which was written in Turkish, by the Turkish
adjutant, the number of men in his company, the number of
packets of tobacco and cigarette papers, and the weight of
honey to be handed over to him. The tobacco, cigarette
papers, and weight of honey were then handed over to him by
Dr. Fraser. His men were assembled, and the officer himself
saw that each one got his share.
This was the only opportunity I had of judging of the interest
the Turkish officer takes in his work. There was no lack of
it in this case. To see the eager way in which the honey and
tobacco were received by the soldiers themselves was quite
pitiful ; they are the two luxuries the Turk loves best. I
was very glad to hear of the great heat-giving properties of
the honey. On the afternoon of the 23rd, I went out with
Dr. Fraser, both our pockets well filled with penny packets
of tobacco ; these we distributed to a party of Turks waiting
outside the Mairie, Dr. Fraser also giving bread to some of
the more destitute ones. We went with the major in com
mand to the temporary hospital. A Roumanian doctor also
accompanied us who came to make a report that his patients
had had no food that day. We found about ninety men
huddled alongside the walls of a good-sized room — a school
— with insufficient straw, no water, and in the dark, all
wanting food, but most too far gone to clamour for it. From
the hospital to the Mairie on the way the major explained to
us that the officers were quite helpless, as the Turks insisted
on buying sweetmeats with the money obtained by selling
bread. This, I take it, is a made up story to blind the officers
to what really is going on, viz., receiving the prisoners'
rations and selling them. I have seen Turks buying bread,
I have seen others standing outside the shops, their half-
covered feet all but hidden in the snow, eyeing the loaves as
one sees a London street arab looking into a Christmas
decorated eating-house. I have paid four coppers and given
a man a loaf. To see the eager yet graceful way in which he
clutches it convinces one that he fully thinks you have given
him new life. On arrival at the Mairie a talk ensues, equally
VOL. II. p

210 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
divided between the doctor, the mayor, and the major. A
further order for bread is unhesitatingly given by the major
on his own responsibility, as the mayor says the full amount
has been handed over to the military. Being satisfied that the
men were going to be fed, some two hours later we took them
up a little tobacco. Some were glad to have it, others were
unable to take notice ; one was dead, surrounded by living
hunger-stricken men, all were too far gone to move from the
corpse, but with still enough power to go through a ghastly
pantomime of raising their hands to their mouths and
imitating the motion of eating.
Leaving the lantern, which Dr. Fraser had thoughtfully
brought for the prisoners, we hurried off to find food.
Nearly all the shops were closed ; but at last a sack with
about 150 thick biscuits was found, and with this we were
back again as fast as possible, to find that the day's bread
was then being issued at about eight p.m. to those that
required food the most — the sick. We waited to see them
eat ; but a good number were unable to break the bread,
which is baked very hard on the outside, and on trial we
found it required considerable force even to pull the upper
crust from the lower. In some one or two cases of the
weaker men the crumb of the bread had to be soaked in
water so as to enable them to eat it.
This want of bread by particular men is simply want of proper
arrangements. Nobody could wish to do better than the
Roumanian officer, nobody could have a readier hand to help
or a better heart, but the system, or rather want of system,
is bad. According to their own showing they depend on the
Turkish officer. The Turkish officer sits in a cafe, and
spends his time equally between coffee and tobacco, with
oocasional drinks not approved of by the Prophet. The
Turkish soldier is, therefore, sometimes neglected, and now
and then starved. There are here 4,000 odd prisoners. One
of them knows Roumanian, and remains with the com
mandant of the town as interpreter, and this seems to be the
only means of communication. There surely must be an
inhabitant of Alexandria who can talk Turkish. Yesterday,
on inquiring for the telegraph office, the gentleman I spoke

EDHEM PACHA. 211
to asked me if I could speak Roumanian or Turkish, and
finding I could speak neither, referred me to a French
speaking native. Here was an interpreter. I have visited
the Mairie three or four times, have found the Mayor polite
and anxious to help, but evidently overburdened with work,
and quite unable to cope with the difficulties of his situation.
In talking about men being starved, one must bear in mind that
it is a very quick operation when short rations are accom
panied with want of clothes, long marches, and bitter frost.
As regards clothing, Dr. Fraser telegraphed a large order to
Bucharest for warm clothing, which he hopes will be ready to
be issued to those who need it most by the time they arrive
in Bucharest, which will probably be to-morrow. I have
described the condition of a batch of prisoners who are, I
am quite sure, exceptionally well off. The poor wretches
who have not yet crossed the Danube must be dying simply
in hundreds.
Edhem Pacha is at present a prisoner with the Roumanian
General Davilar. While conversing with him the other day,
he took a piece of paper which happened to be part of an
old number of the Graphic, representing a panoramic view of
Plevna, and on the back, with a few rapid strokes in pencil,
he produced a fair plan of the battle of Plevna. The rapidity
and correctness with which he drew the contours of the
different hills showed him to be a capable military draughts
man. His quick, intelligent mode of narration, and his
sharp, practical comments, convinced one at once that here
was one of the men who rendered Plevna such a hard trial
as it proved to the Russians. This is his account :
Shortly previous to the sortie, a Council of War was held, con
sisting of eight pachas and the civil powers. Osman Pacha
informed them that his store of bread was coming to an end,
and that very little big gun amunition was left. It was for
them to decide, should they lay down their arms or make a
sortie in the only practicable place, across the Vid, north of
the Sofia road. The sortie was decided on. On the night of
the 9th, 32,000 Turks, all the available force except a skeleton
garrison for some of the redoubts, assembled in the Valley of
Plevna— 26,000 infantry, 6,000 artillery. At two o'clock
p 2

212 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
this army commenced crossing the Vid by five bridges, the
permanent stone one and four temporary ones. The tempo
rary were placed one just up stream to the south of the stone
bridge, the other three dividing the distance between the
stone bridge and a line drawn from Opanesk fort straight to
the river. As the regiments crossed the Vid they deployed
into line, and they did this in so orderly a manner that the
Cossack videttes, who were but 300 yards away, were not
aware of their vicinity till the skirmishers of the Turks
advanced to within 100 yards of them. The Cossacks then
retired firing.
At this time the position of the Turkish forces was as follows :
— 1st, a line of skirmishers ; 2nd, a line of battalions in line ;
3rd, three guns in rear of right of line of infantry; three
ditto centre ditto ; three -ditto left ditto. These guns were
not used till after passing the first Russian line. The Turks
depended on one gun in the small bastion below Opanesk
redoubt, five on the south slope of the Opanesk redoubt,
these constituting the right of the Turkish attack ; eleven
guns in two batteries on the high ground on the Plevna side
of the permanent bridge, these constituting the left of the
Turkish attack. The positions of the Turkish generals were
as follows : Commencing from the rear of the army, one
Pacha was on the high ground above the bridge, with the
eleven guns I have mentioned ; one on the right, with the
six guns on the slope of Opanesk ; two in the plain below
superintending the crossing. On the right of the attacking
line was one Pacha ; in the centre, one ; on the left were two
and Osman Pacha. As the attacking line advanced, carts
containing ammunition and necessary baggage crossed the per
manent bridge, and, with them, numbers of carts belonging to
the inhabitants of Plevna, and containing their wives,
children, and household goods, in all to the number of
4,000, pressed forward, and crossed as fast as possible. These
latter Osman Pacha was powerless to prevent crossing, fori
as soon as his troops were withdrawn from Plevna they
insisted on following. At daybreak, a little before eight, the
fighting began. The bridge was swept by the Russian artil
lery, killing men, women, and children, and horses and oxen.

PRISONERS ON THE ROAD. 213
At nine, No. 2 bridge, counting the bridge below Opanesk as
No. 1, was broken by the Roumanian battery of five guns,
situated to the right of the Turkish attack. The Turks
steadily advanced, and carried the first Russian lines.
Again they advanced, and carried two batteries of six
guns each in the second line. For two hours the
fight raged between the second and third line of the
Russians in favour of neither side. At this critical
time the Turkish shells ran short ; this enabled the Rou
manians to turn their left flank, to get possession of Opanesk
and the hard-fought day was decided against the Turks.
Osman Pacha was- wounded in the leg, the same bullet
killing his horse, a present from the Sultan. 10,000 Turks
had not crossed the- Vid when they laid down their arms.
The next letter furnishes a sequel to the story of the
treatment of the prisoners in Bulgaria, exhibiting, as it does,
the captured Turks and their fellow- sufferers on their road for
the north.
-f- + + Putenieu, January 3rd. — We started from Fratesti, my
companion and I, about ten o'clock on the morning of the new
year. Our conveyance was a wooden sleigh, and we were stowed
away with our furs in a sort of hencoop, minus the top bars,
with our baggage in the straw to serve us for a seat. We
had had a heavy frost the night before, and our road had
been pretty well worn and was too much frozen to make it
the most desirable for sleighing. Our vehicle would accord
ingly run away with the horses whenever we came to a slight
incline to right or left on the road. As the roads are very
much given that way in Roumania, we were always on the
look out for a collision with- one of the frozen heaps of
carrion by the wayside, round which1 the dogs were feeding.
Dead horses and dying oxen now became more frequent, strew
ing our route, and we knew we must be in the wake of some
munition train. Presently we came up with an extensive
line of waggons and sleighs^ for the most part loaded with
shot and shell, struggling on slowly with the heavy weight
of their deadly burdens, so we soon passed them. The morn
ing was bitterly cold, and before us was one vast plain of

214 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
snow, only broken by the bleak telegraph poles and the
fluttering of carrion crows. Soon these birds of prey in
creased in numbers, making almost black the leaden sky.
Then afar off, breaking the horizon, a long dark line came
slowly moving in caterpillar- fashion along the road towards
ns. It was a column of men marching. Not Russian sol
diers or Roumanian, or ere this we should have heard some
cheerful song borne over the snow. They must be the
Turkish prisoners, for in front waver the bayonets of their
Dorobantz guards as they plod slowly forward under the
weight of their miscellaneous kit. Following are a few
Turkish officers, either on ponies or on foot. Behind them
come the men who once kept the flower of the Russian army
at bay round Plevna. How spiritless and broken they look
as they trudge wearily along the road to their captivity.
Half-starved, almost dead with fatigue and the severe cold,
many with fever burning in their eyes — mere stalking bones
and foul rags — come the brave troops who made the fame of
Osman Pacha. We get well to the windward of these poor
creatures, for typhus and small-pox linger round them on the
frosty air. Many are even now falling out of the ranks to
lie down and die. One poor fellow has thrown himself on
the snow by the roadside ; he can go no further. A com
rade, loth to leave him, follows and tries to persuade him to
struggle once more to join the line. There is no response.
He has swooned or is dead. A soldier of the rearguard now
comes up and roughly pushes the living man back to the
ranks. Then he kicks with his foot the bundle of rags on
the ground. There is no sign. With the butt-end of his
gun he turns the head over from the snow. The eyes glare
at him with a fixed stare. He is dead. The soldier brutally
pushes the body deeper into the snow, shoulders his rifle, and
joins his guard.
Thousands of birds of prey whirl round and settle in front and
rear, always following this grim procession like sharks round'
a doomed ship. A few yards further on lies, half-covered
with snow, a nude body of another dead Turk, stripped by
his companions for the little warmth of the rags he wore. A
crow has just settled on his clenched hand and the dogs are

PUTENIEU. 215
slinking round their victim. A few paces more brings us to
another miserable, lying as he died with upturned face, staring
on heaven through the fast falling-snow. We must now be
near a village, for there are pigs about, and we have just
seen a skirmish between these swine and the dogs, to see
which shall be first at this horrible carrion. It is the village
of Putenieu, almost lost in the snow and ice. How different
the place looked from what it was when I first passed through
its streets in the early summer ! The Russian advance guard
had then only just gone by, and I was in search of Dragi-
miroff to know where the great crossing of the Danube was
to take place. We were then suffering from mosquitoes,
intense heat, and blinding dust. Now we were shivering in
our furs with cold. Putenieu has become a place of great
importance since those days. It is now one of the resting-
places for sick and wounded soldiers on the road from the
Danube to Fratesti, or to the hospitals at Bucharest and in
Russia.
It is in Putenieu that Dr. Humphry Sandwith has erected,
with funds from the England-Russian Sick and Wounded
Society, an Etape or Hospice to shelter one thousand men.
Hundreds of the Turkish sick passing through to Russia
also find shelter and comfort within its walls from the severe
cold weather. The director, M. le Baron de Benckendorff,
and for the while our good host, is full of work. Not only
do his own sick and wounded appeal to his sympathy, but
also the miserable Turks, and they pass through in thousands
daily, dead beat, and weary from their long march. " Four
thousand passed through to-day," said the Baron to me the
morning I arrived. Our little village is over-crowded with
the sick they have left behind. This evening four thousand
more are expected. A loaf of bread and pound of meat are
given to each prisoner just before entering the town. Then
they are billeted for the night on the inhabitants, choking up
their little hovels, breeding vermin and pestilence wherever
they go. It is indeed hard on the villagers of Putenieu, for
there is an endless stream of prisoners. No sooner has one
column left than another enters the village.
Unfortunately, through this bad arrangement on the part of

216 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the Russian and Roumanian authorities, the inhabitants ex
pend their annoyance on the poor prisoners, and the Rou
manian peasants are very cruel and brutal. They beat these
poor wretches, illtreat the sick, and after the darkness hides
their cruelty from the Russian eyes they turn them out into
the cold night, which means in their plight, half starved and
semi-nude, certain death, for the thermometer registers
sometimes twenty degrees Reaumur below zero. The result
is that the little dead-house opposite my lodgment is well
tenanted the next morning with frozen corpses. Dr. Sand
with and myself visited this charnel-house. There are two
rooms. In one, ten or twelve bodies were lying as they had
been pitched in dead, and others must still have had some
life left by their expression and the position of their bodies.
In the other room four Turks had sought shelter from the
bitterness of the night, and had cleared a space in the mass
of dead, and with scraps of rags from the bodies and some
sticks of straw had lighted a fire, and were crowded round
the wretched smoulder for warmth. One poor shivering
wretch, nearly naked, crawled from where he was thought to
be lying dead towards the group, and feebly struggled with
the rest for a place at the fire. Dr. Sandwith remonstrated
with them in Turkish for their unkindness to their miserable
comrade, and so the poor creature was allowed to huddle in
with the cheerless circle. We asked them what we could do
for them. They were very hungry, some not having eaten
for three days. Major Baker and the doctor, who were with
me, sought in the village for food, but nothing for love or
money could be got but onions and bread. The Russians or
Roumanians profess to give them bread and meat for daily
rations, but there is no doubt that many in some way get
none, and there are hundreds who through sickness cannot
eat this rough fare. Soup is dealt out to many by order of
the kindly Baron, but only the stronger who struggle for it
receive it. The weaker go to the wall, and die neglected
from sheer starvation, as their poor emaciated bodies will
testify in the little dead-house. The weather has been more
than usually severe for the last two days, and the mortuary
is crowded with dead Turks piled up several feet high,

A LITTLE SISTER OF MERCY. 217
and crowding the passage leading into the street. Every morning
waggons cart them, unwashed, uncovered, to the huge pit out
side the village, and there these brave and long-suffering men
find a last resting-place.
January 4th. — To-day I have made the acquaintance of a little
sister of mercy, the most fearless and energetic of them all.
She hates the horrible Turks and the English, too, but does
not mind me, and tells me what perfidious creatures my
countrymen are to sympathise and assist those cruel men.
Nevertheless, I have seen her go into the most foul fever
dens, with the good-natured Baron by her side, and dispense
cigarettes and refreshing drinks to the wretched, suffering
Turks. She is an old campaigner in the work of attending
the sick, though very young in years. She is always bright
and cheerful, and is the life and. soul of the hospice at Pute
nieu ; wears the whitest of caps, the snowiest of aprons, and
the reddest of red crosses on her breast. Even Turks cheer
up when they see her, though she bears the hated symbol.
To-day is even colder than usual. The telegraph wires
running through the main road of the village are encased in
more than an inch of frost, and the hospice glitters with
frosted ice and snow in the last rays of the blood-red sun
sinking over the white plains far away to the west. I have
just met the little sister returning to her hut from some act
of mercy in the village. I call her attention to the lovely
evening. A star and the crescent moon, the only signs in
the clear sky, shine brilliantly. My companion stops, pulls
my arm, and points towards the right. There is the omi
nous black line wending up the valley. More wretched
prisoners, footsore and weary, with their cadaverous faces
and ice-laden beards. A halt is made at the little bridge,
to dole out to each their frozen loaf of bread. A few poor
fellows throw themselves down on the snow and fervently
pray after their fashion. How the heavens this night with
the bright symbols of their faith glittering on the frosted
snow and on their misery, seem to mock these poor men !
Another Correspondent sends further details on the same
subject : —

218 WAR CORRESPONDENCE
§ Bucharest, December 27th. — This afternoon, hearing of the
arrival of 4,000 and odd prisoners, I jumped into a sleigh
and hurried to see them. • It had been thawing for fourteen
hours. The ice that lately covered the streets had become
sometimes mud, snow, or dirty water, according as the thaw
had had more or less effect. Every now and then I was
forcibly reminded of the badness of the roads over which
the prisoners have had to march by the bumping of the
sleigh against the stones, or the dirty water thrown in my
face by passing horses. The depressing raw cold of the thaw,
the badness of the roads, and rumours that small-pox had
broken out among the prisoners, helped to make one be
lieve that the state of the Turks would be as bad as bad
could be.
Descending at the gateway leading into the " Caserne d'lnfan-
terie," a sturdy " Dorobantz " sentry stops us ; no amount of
entreaty or command has any effect on him. Certainly, the
Minister or any one else might have given us leave to go
everywhere ; all he knew was that his officer had told him
no one was to go in, and so no one should go in. Fortunately
for us a sergeant appeared, and I was soon shaking hands
with my friend, the major commanding. Often before I
have said that the Roumanian, whether officer or soldier, has
a good heart. To see the real genuine pleasure that lights
up the face of our friend, to hear the pleasant ring of his
voice as he points out the many thoughtful arrangements
that have been made for the comfort of his prisoners, is a
real gratification. And, mark you, there is in this no showing
off of a model establishment ; there has been no time spent
in eye-serving arrangements ; our guide is one who for five
months has looked death steadily in the face, and has
patiently endured the hardships of a hard campaign, and
yet he has been thoughtful not as a rough soldier but as •
a woman. Higher form of praise I know not, or willingly
he should have it.
As we enter the gateway, we have to stand aside to allow the
few bullock-carts that contain the scanty baggage of the
lately arrived column to pass in. In the square is the last.
company of the prisoners being told off to their barracks.

THE CASERNE D'lNFANTERIE. 219
As we move up the staircase to the officers' quarters in the
dark, we are suddenly dazzled by a dozen or so lighted
candles being borne downstairs by soldiers. " You see," says
the officer, " we've only just arrived, and didn't like to leave
the poor fellows in the dark." " How well yon look after
the officers," I say. " Oh, it isn't the officers, it's the Turkish
prisoners I spoke of." We enter a candle-lighted room ; a
large fire is burning in the stove, too large for us who are
recently from the open air. Against the walls are beds at
intervals of about six feet apart, covered with clean white
mattresses, stuffed with straw. These mattresses are about
twice the size and twice as comfortable as those given to our
soldiers at home ; and on each, cigarette in mouth, sits a
perfectly contented Turkish officer. And no wonder ; such
comfort he has not seen since he left Pera, and such clean
liness as is around him I am afraid he is unable to appreciate.
" You won't find any of your friends here," says our conductor ;
" all the superior officers have their parole d'honneur, and are
off to the town." We visit all the quarters of the officers,
all equally perfect in arrangement, and simply luxurious to
any soldier.
From these quarters we go down- stairs to the ground floor, and
in among the men. There is a cheerful clatter of tongues all
going together, a thing I have never before heard among the
prisoners, much tobacco smoke, a little eating, but most by
this time have finished dinner. I am reminded of native
troops in India after a march. Mats even have been provided
for the Turks to sleep on. As we step into the barrack-
square out of the well-lighted room, we stumble upon a group
evidently in consultation, who turn out to be Turkish officers.
At the sound of our conductor's voice he is surrounded in an
instant, all equally glad to see him, and evidently accustomed
to regard him as their hope in matters difficult. Languages
of all sorts are tried, but none are in common. Frequent
pointing to a lot of ponies accompanies the Turkish observa
tions, till at last we are led to believe that food for their
horses is what they require. The major takes a Turk by the
coat sleeve, goes to where his own pony is picketed, and
with a few gestures the whole Turkish cavalry, numbering

220 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
six or seven ponies, is invited to dinner with that favoured
animal.
I may remark that forage is not only bad and dear, but hard to
get. Across the square we go, and into the quarters of the
" Dorobantz," who have conducted the prisoners from Plevna.
We find them, some drawn up in the veranda not yet dis
missed, others just taking their packs off. The rooms and
surroundings are the same as those occupied by the Turks,
except that the prisoners have mats to sleep on, their captors
none. The rations of both are the same, except the ration
of spirits, which the Mohammedan will not take. Tobacco
is also given them. The mortality of this batch of prisoners
has been marvellously small, only sixty or seventy dying in
the very severe weather of the last few days. Some sick
have been left in the villages en route, and but 150 taken into
hospital on arrival here. When one knows that twenty
Russians were frozen to death but a few miles from here;
that five or six Roumanian peasants were dug out of the
snow near Alexandria the day before these very men started
from there ; that on that day 200 dead Turks strewed each
side of the snow-covered way above Nicopolis, over which
these very men had marched a few days before ; when one
thinks of the miserable and destitute condition some of these
very men were in at Alexandria, which condition I described
to you in my last letter, one marvels at their extraordinary
good fortune, and cannot but think that their labour must
have been lightened, and their troubles made as little as
could be, by the Roumanian officer (all honour to him) whose
happiness seems to be bound up in their comfort. We were
unable to obtain any information as to the truth of the
rumour about small-pox being among the prisoners.
In the following we have some news from Bucharest of a
more distinguished prisoner.
t Bucharest, December 26th. — On Wednesday the Nicopohs
bridge was carried away by the ice. Unless the bridges at
Sistova be removed immediately they will also go. The bridge
carried away by the ice is of course completely destroyed, as

OSMAN PACHA IN CAPTIVITY. 221
the pontoons, for the most part, are broken and sunk. No
floating bridge, of course, can be made to resist floating ice.
Osman Pacha has been at Fratesti for the past two days. He is
expected here to-night ; Prince Charles is also expected. The
surgeons have had a good deal of difficulty with Osman's
wound. He obstinately refused to have it dressed, it is said,
for three or four days, and it was with great difficulty two
Sisters of Charity finally persuaded him to submit to having
it cleaned and dressed.
Osman Pacha arrived here this evening, and put up at the
Hotel Broft. He was looking well, and was carried up to his
rooms in an armchair. A little girl, the daughter of a Rou
manian lady living in the hotel, met him upstairs, and gave
him a bouquet of flowers. He lifted her up and kissed her.
He is accompanied by a Russian officer, and a Russian under-
officer, without arms, stands guard before his door. It is
supposed he will remain here some days on account of his
wound, which, although not dangerous, is painful. It is
believed that Colonel Wellesley's interview with the
Emperor, before the latter's departure for Russia, was in
reference to Osman Pacha. The Sultan had requested Mr.
Layard to transmit to Osman Pacha his sincere gratitude, and
deep sympathy. Colonel Wellesley conveyed this message
to the Emperor, who graciously promised to transmit it to
Ghazi Osman.
+ + Bucharest, December 27th. — Colonel Wellesley leaves here
on Saturday for London, vid Vienna. He does not return to
Bulgaria.
Prince Charles of Roumania has just arrived. He was received
with joyful acclamations by the populace, and decorations,
flags, and illuminations are the order of the day. His High
ness, accompanied by the Ministers, the members of the
Chamber, and the Senate, is at present attending Divine
Service in the principal church in Bucharest. He will after
wards proceed to the Chamber, where an address will be
presented.

222 WAR CORRESPONDENCE

CHAPTER VIII.
AFFAIRS IN ST. PETERSBURG.
Reception of the Emperor in the Capital. — Public Rejoicings. — Imposing Scene
in the Kasan Cathedral. — Centenary of the Birth of Alexander I. — Requiem
Service. — Ceremony in the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul. — Reception.
and Procession in the Winter Palace. — Opinion in Russia. — Difficulty of
obtaining Data. — The Russian Political Organs. — The Censorship. — Loyalty
of the People. — Anecdotes of the Recent Ceremonies and Rejoicings.—
Popularity of the Czar.— The Russian Police and the People. — A Street
Incident. — The Emperor and the Peasant. — Sensitiveness of the Autho
rities regarding the Transmission of News. — Censorship of Telegrams. —
Vexatious Interference. — Russian Excitement regarding News from England.
— Review of Troops in St. Petersburg. — The Russian Reserves. — Russian
Army System. — Extent of the Drain on the Resources of the Empire. — The •
Wars with Napoleon. — Difference in the Conditions of the Present Time.— .
The Financial Question. — Feeling Towards England.
The following series of letters from a Correspondent in St.
Petersburg, at the period of the return of the Czar after the
fall of Plevna, disclose the state of feeling and the position of
affairs in the Russian capital. In connection with the war they
furnish a companion picture to that of the letters describing
the situation in Constantinople, while they afford some im
portant information regarding the resources of Russia in men
and material.
* St. Petersburg, December 23rd. — The Emperor, on his return
to his capital yesterday morning, was received with an en
thusiasm the fervid sincerity of which would have convinced
the most incredulous of the ardent population of this great
city. I have heard it seriously averred, not lately indeed,
but in the dark days which have now passed away, that it
might be rash for the Emperor to return to the capital except
behind the bayonets of his soldiers. Judging by what I have

RETURN OF THE EMPEROR TO ST. PETERSBURG. 223
seen and heard to-day, had the Emperor come home broken,
defeated, and thwarted, he would have been as warmly har
boured in the sympathetic and loyal hearts of his people as
he has been now, returning under far other and more happy
circumstances.
The streets of St. Petersburg lend themselves happily to popu
lar demonstrations. Lined for the most part with noble
buildings, from whose fronts to-day hung countless banners,
they are so wide as to afford ample standing room for the
vastest throngs, without the crowding and confusion with
which we at home are but too familiar. From daybreak the
snowy air was filled with the strains of martial music as the
regiments of the garrison paraded in full uniform, but with
out arms, were being marched to take up positions for lining
the streets. Talk of the pomp and circumstance of glorious
war, it is not in actual war where pomp and circumstance are
seen, but instead a grim purposeful utilitarianism. In Bul
garia I never saw helmet or epaulette, but here helmets and
epaulettes, embroidered shabracques and dancing plumes,
abounded.
The garrison of St. Petersburg now consists of the reserve
battalions of the Guard regiments and the line divisions
which have taken the place of the Guards. One sees the
quaint scarlet and yellow toupees of the Grenadiers, the
curious brass-fronted, mitre-like casques of the Pauloff
Guard regiment, the glittering eagle-topped helmets of the
Horse Guards, and the gay plumes and lines of the Lancers.
The soldiers lined the broad roadway kept for the passage of
the Emperor. Behind were serried masses of civilians of
both sexes, and of all classes. Balconies and windows were
hung with cloths of brilliant colours, and thronged with the
fairest faces of the Empire. In sadly many instances, how
ever, the sombre crape of the dresses testified that war has
its bitterness as well as its glory.
The Emperor's train reached the splendidly decorated terminus
exactly at ten o'clock. Cordial greetings were exchanged
between friends who had accompanied the Czar to the battle
field, and those whom duty had detained at home. The
general comment was that his Majesty looked very well, but

224 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
considei'ably thinner than when he left the capital. As he"
alighted the pupils of the Conservatoire received him with a
hymn of welcome, and tendered him a laurel crown. Mr.
Bogreboff, the Mayor of St. Petersburg, presented an address
of congratulation in the name of the Town Council, and
after a very brief delay the Emperor emerged from the ter
minus, and as the vast throng in the open space outside
caught sight of their monarch, the cheering waxed louder
and louder ; the roar of artillery salvoes, with another and
pleasanter significance than those which the Emperor has so
recently been hearing, added to the volume of sound, which
was swollen and varied yet further by the pealing of bells
belonging to the almost innumerable churches of the capital.
The Emperor seated himself along with his son, the Grand
Duke Sergins, in a little sledge, drawn by two horses. The
way was led by General Trepoff, Minister of Police, and the
little vehicle, surrounded by a brilliant and splendidly
mounted staff, and followed by an escort of the splendid
Horse Guards, was driven at a rapid pace along the crowded
streets on the road to the Kasan Cathedral. The 'Czarevna,
in a caleche, followed the imperial cortege, and met with
a reception only second to that which welcomed the Emperor.
The great semi-circular place in front of the Kasan Cathedral
was fringed with crimson tiers of seats, and occupied partly
by soldiers, partly by a densely packed mass of civilians.
The scene within was extremely striking. One passed the
massive doors to find the semi- darkness of a gloomy morning,
relieved by the radiance of multitudinous candles, from which
the light flashed on the polished sparkling surface of huge
pillars of Finland granite, and on the gold frames of the.
sacred pictures. The soft light gleamed on the chased sur
face of the holy door, behind which lies the high altar, and
on the precious stones with which are so profusely adorned
the sacred effigies which break the glistening silvern surface
of the Iconostas. The gorgeousness of a worship which ap
peals to the soul through the senses, was visible every
where ; in the massive candelabra of solid silver ; in the
name of the Almighty rendered in precious stones in the
centre of the screen with dazzling rays of glory encircling

SCENE IN KASAN CATHEDRAL. 225
it; in the glitter of innumerable gems; and in the polished
beauty of rare marbles.
Worship and war mingle strangely together in this cathedral.
An inscription testifies that the silver of the Iconostas was
the offering of the Don Cossacks after the campaign of 1812.
Another sense than that of religion is appealed to by the
trophy and banners which depend from every column, like
palm leaves drooping from a central stem. Here are the
visible tokens and signs of Russia's military prowess in past
wars. Not yet are here the trophies won at Gorny Dubnik,
Teliche, and Plevna. These are yet to come, but the war
prizes of Diebitch, Wittgenstein, and Paskiewitch shot-torn,
and faded, hang from the brackets fixed in the marble pillars.
The triumphs of earlier warfare with the Turks are com
memorated by standards taken by Suvaroff, when he led his
own storming party against the ramparts of Ismail. The
eagles of France, trophies of the collapse of the great in
vasion, are alternated with the standards tipped by the
Crescent. Over the tomb of Kutosoff hang the banners his
army won, when blood dyed the snow on the banks of the
Beresina. Under the flagstaff's hang the massive keys of
cities which have surrendered to Russian arms. That black
staff there, studded with golden bees, is the marshal's baton
of the ruthless Davoust.
The waiting throng in the noble cathedral is a microcosm of
the Russian nation. People had spent the night sleeping on
the marble floor, that they might be secure of a place for the
morning. There has been no respect of persons in the ad
missions. The Mujik in his sheepskins stands next to the
high officer, whose bosom glitters with decorations. The
lady of the nobility and the woman of the people rub
shoulders. The old peasant woman and the princess bend
together at the shrine. A clear space is preserved along the
centre of the aisle. Elsewhere the eager earnest throng is
massed. Order and quiet prevail. The duty of the police
functionaries in keeping clear the central passage is very
light. Ladies are passing along this pathway, carrying
boxes in which they are collecting contributions for the
relief of the wounded, and the copecks of the peasant jingle
VOL. n. Q

226 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
against the gold imperials contributed by the noble, for all
are liberal in this cause according to their means. Tall
priests, in their lofty hats, their long hair falling on the
collars of their gorgeous robes, move to and fro, arranging
the preliminaries of the religious ceremony. The great '
chandeliers hanging from the roof are lighted, and now the
cathedral is in a blaze of light.
As the hour for the arrival of the Emperor draws nigh, the
high officers of police finally marshal the orderly throng to
come up to the front. Alas, that so many of them should
wear these all too significant mourning garments on such an
occasion as that of to-day ! There always seems to be the
undertone of a sob in the loud-sonnding clamour of the
joyous cheering, and here and there in the corners of the
great cathedral were to be noticed weeping women, poor
souls who have given hostages to Russia and the Czar, in
the lives of those nearest and dearest to them.
Suddenly the tinkle of a bell is heard ; the great doors of the
cathedral are flung wide open ; there surges in a great gust
of cold air, on the wings of which is borne a great throbbing
volume of sound, the roar of the cheering of vast multi
tudes, the booming of artillery, the clashing of the pealing
joy-bells. Descending from the altar-place, the clergy,
headed by the Metropolitan, resplendent in gorgeous robes,
and wearing a mitre which is one mass of glittering precious
stones, advance in stately procession towards the door. There
is a brief pause, during which the cheering outside peals
louder and louder. From the front of the Iconostas a
stream of melody diffuses itself over the cathedral as
choristers raise the chant of thanksgiving. Now the pro
cession is returning from the door where the Metropolitan
has received the Emperor. The throng cannot be restrained.
It closes in with irresistible impulse, for here comes their Czar
back among them after sharing with his gallant soldiers the
dangers and hardships of the campaign. His son. Grand Duke
Sergius, the youngest member of the Imperial family who
has made the campaign, is by his side. The throng is silent,
as beseems the sacred edifice, but the eager joy of glowing
faces testifies to the all-absorbins; emotion.

CENTENARY OF ALEXANDER I. 227
The Emperor passes on towards the altar, preceded by the
Metropolitan. He ascends the steps, and his lips touch the
the glittering image of the Holy Virgin of Kasan. There
has followed him the Czarevna, whose fair face recalls the
features so vividly of one honoured and beloved by every
Briton. Count Adlerberg, alone of the members of the
suite, has followed his Imperial master into the cathedral.
The simple ceremony is of brief duration, and in a few moments
the Emperor is returning towards the door. The loyalty of
the throng is no longer to be restrained. Men and women
all but block the path of his Majesty, eager to kiss the hem
of his garment. The procession struggles on through the
dense masses, and the door is finally reached. Then we in
the cathedral hear the cheering of the crowd outside break
forth again as the Emperor drives away towards the Winter
Palace.
A few thousand persons would make but a very small show in
the huge area of the Alexander Platz, but now it was so
densely thronged that circulation was wholly impossible.
The clamour of the cheering rent the very sky as the
Emperor drove through the crowd up to the door of the
palace, and, alighting there, stood for a few moments on the
terrace acknowledging the welcome of his subjects, before
entering the palace to take up for the time quarters very
different to those he occupied at Bjela, Gorny Studen, and
Poradim. Even after his Majesty had entered, the cheering
continued so long and so persistently that he had to gratify
the people by showing himself again and again at the window
of the palace. All day long the huzzaing crowd continued
gathered in front of the palace, and late into the night the
cheering of the soldiers from the barracks fell upon the
ear.
From seven until nearly midnight the streets of the capital
were brilliantly illuminated.
* St. Petersburg, December 24th. — One of the principal
reasons which caused the Emperor Alexander to journey
with all speed to his capital after the fall of Plevna was
that he might be able to preside in person at the cere-
Q 2

228. WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
monial commemorating the centenary of the birth of his
illustrious ancestor, Alexander I. That monarch's name is
identified with some of the most critical and most glorious
episodes of Russian national history, and his memory is still
green in the hearts of the Russian people.
Alexander lies buried among the dead of the Imperial family
in the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, in the fortress.
Under white marble tombs sleep those whose names in life
filled the world. Peter the Great, who evolved Russia from
barbarism ; Catherine II. ; Alexander, whose reign saw a
conquering hostile army in the Russian capital, and the
conquering of the foe" who had wrought her this despite ;
and Nicholas of the iron soul.
Beneath the gorgeous roof of this Imperial mausoleum
cathedral there gathered this morning to listen to a
requiem service all those of the nobles, courtiers, and
soldiers of Russia who are not engaged in the campaign.
The standards won by Russian prowess in the wars of two
centuries hung from the pillars above the veterans who had
been instrumental in the capture of some of them. Medals
and decorations, rewards of conduct and valour, bedecked
almost every breast. The St. George hung at the throat of
the pale lad whose arm in a sling, told of a wound received
at the crossing of the Danube in June. High over the
throng towered the yet unbent form of the venerable
Suvaroff, who campaigned with Diebitch in 1828.
The Emperor entered the cathedral, followed in single file by
the male members of the Imperial family now in St. Peters
burg, and strode up the aisle with a truly noble port. He
wore a splendid Hussar dress, with fur pelisse dangling from
the shoulder, and acknowledged with Imperial dignity the
obeisances paid him by all. The Metropolitan conducted in
person the solemn funeral service before the tomb of
Alexander, the Emperor standing or kneeling in the open
space in front of the Metropolitan, with his family, the
Court, and his officers behind him. The strains of the
solemn requiem rose from the serried tiers of the choir.
White-bearded priests standing around the tombs of the
doad Emperors were visible through the foliage of the

SCENE IN THE WINTER PALACE. 229
grove of exotic shrubs in which the marble monuments were
embowered.
As the pealing strains of the anthem wailed through the
cathedral the Emperor took from one of his Ministers a
commemorative medal struck for the occasion, and, ap
proaching the tomb of Alexander, laid the medal upon it,
among the floral wreaths and crosses which flushed the pale
marble with their colours. At this moment all present knelt,
with a lighted taper in every hand, and as the requiem hushed
there rose the sonorous accents of the Metropolitan pronounc
ing the benediction. The Emperor visited in succession the
tomb of each member of his race, bending and kissing the
marble. He lingered a moment over the tomb of his first
born, the late Czarewitch, on which loving hands keep the
flowers perpetually fresh ; and, with final, stately bows to the
illustrious congregation, quitted the cathedral at noon.
There was afterwards marshalled in the State apartments of
the Winter Palace a magnificent gathering. Diamonds
sparkled, and rich trains swept the parquetted floors. All
who had been present at the funeral service in the fortress
cathedral had reunited in the Palace, and the presence of
noble ladies added to the brilliancy of the spectacle. At a
signal the Imperial procession set forth in stately march
through the noble halls and galleries, lined by splendid
soldiers, on its way to the chapel of the Palace, at the
entrance to which their Majesties, and the Imperial Family
were received by the Metropolitan and his clergy. The
procession having been marshalled into the chapel, a solemn
Te Deum was celebrated, with a prayer for the Emperor and
the Imperial Family, and prayers for the welfare of all
Russia. The strains of the Te Deum were accentuated by
the thunder of a salute of 101 guns, fired from the cannon
of the fortress.
* St. Petersburg, Christmas Eve. — I find candid Russians
frankly confessing that they have no pretensions to any full
understanding of their country, and their countrymen as a
whole. I find Britons who have lived long in Russia under
conditions which ought, as it would seem, to have afforded

230 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
them some insight into the national character, hopelessly at
variance one with another in matters which lie on the very
threshold of a study of the subject. When I mention these
things and state further that I have been in St. Petersburg
for a period of four days, it need not be regarded as an
evidence of any exceptional diffidence that I do not embark
forthwith on a comprehensive analysis of the state of Russia,
and the condition, characteristics, and idiosyncracies of her
population. My time has chiefly been occupied in casting
away as detrimental and erroneous previously conceived
impressions, and there is but one thing which I can venture
to aver with any assurance — namely, that the Russian people
and a Russian army or campaign are two very different and
opposite things.
Data do not lie about the surface in respect to opinions as they
do elsewhere. Send a reasonably intelligent Russian into
England to gather what its people think on any topic, or any
series of topics. He begins to absorb pabulum at Dover.
He buys some three or four daily newspapers at Dover ; he
reads their leading articles, and he finds that the country is
divided into certain parties, each party or section of party
having fairly defined and specific views and convictions. He
buys " Dod," and finds that the Commons House of Parlia
ment, representing the people, consists of so many so-called
Conservatives and so many so-called Liberals. He gets a
more or less accurate definition of Conservatism and
Liberalism, and he finds that the supporters of the doctrines
embodied in either designation march with tolerably whole
hearted loyalty under the respective banners. As he travels
in railway carriages he hears expressions of opinion evoked
by pieces of information which are communicated in the
public journals. The cabman who drives him to his hotel
has settled opinions on a variety of the topics of the hour,
based upon the fulness of information with regard to facts
which is supplied to him in the newspaper which his last
fare left behind him when he quitted the cab. I do not say
that the intelligent Russian arriving among us is altogether
likely to gather in the course of a few days' residence an
entirely comprehensive and altogether accurate acquaintance

JOURNALISM IN RUSSIA. 231
with British public opinion ; but it cannot be denied that he
will find on every hand, and at every turn, opportunities
. which are calculated to aid him in grasping at least some
knowledge of the situation.
In Russia, so far as my brief experience goes, there are to be
found no such opportunities. If there be a public opinion
it finds no means of expressing itself in concrete form. There
is no Parliament and consequently no " Dod." There are no
newspapers in our sense of the term. Suppose the Emperor
made a speech of a warlike tenor, and a Russian journal were
to combat the utterances and adduce reasons and arguments
why they are unsatisfactory, that newspaper would be
suspended, if not obliterated.' There are thus no overt
means of discovering to what extent and in what sense there
exists what we conventionally know as an " Opposition."
Indeed, such an " Opposition " as we are familiar with — ¦
any act, for instance, analogous in its principle to the hostile
criticism of a Speech from the Throne — would be simply
impossible in Russia, in the sense of impossibility which the
penalties for high treason enforce.
Again, I want to know, let it be assumed, what is the temper of
Russia towards England. This Russian tells me bluntly
that he hates England down to the ground, and wants
nothing so much as to see Russia and England at war. This
other Russian owns to some regard for England, and has the
idea that if Russia and England were to join hands, they
might view with equanimity the machinations of the rest of
creation. A third Russian gives you to discern that he has
a most wholesome fear of England, and that he reluctantly
regards her as at the present moment mistress of the
situation. But no one of the three can claim that acquaintance
with expressed public opinion in England, indicating her
leanings, her desires, her anxieties, that ought to constitute
the proper material for his arriving at a reasonable con
clusion in regard to her. What we must technically call his
newspapers furnish him with no information on such topics.
If he can read English and desires to take in English journals
with intent to study the subject, he finds that several of the
journals that are essential to iris object are wholly proscribed.

232 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
If in any paper which is permitted to enter the country
anything occurs of which the censorship chooses to dis
approve, he gets his paper with the passage obliterated by a
splodge of black ink. His opinions then are rather pre
judices than opinions proper ; he is like a man who forms
idefvs respecting the scenery of a district through which he
is passing in the dark.
Men speak their minds freely enough so far as actual speech is
concerned. I found this to be the case in the army ; it is at
least equally so in such civilian society in the capital as I
have had the opportunity of mingling in. But it is strangely
noticeable that so many people confine themselves to assertion,
and take no heed to the giving of reasons. Let me give an
instance. A topic of discussion, which is socially prominent
for the moment, is whether the enthusiasm displayed on the
occasion of the Emperor's arrival the other day was genuine,
deep-hearted enthusiasm, or merely an ephemeral outburst
of contagious excitement. I find that a considerable number
of those who are most dogmatic on either side of the question
did not themselves witness the demonstration. There have
been no adequate or detailed accounts of it in the St.
Petersburg papers. It follows that the dogmatizers have
formed their conclusions on hearsay evidence, or have evolved
them out of their internal consciousness. I have asked some
who take the non-genuine side the reasons for their belief.
It is based, the reply is, on the fact that there never before
has been such a demonstration, and that genuine enthusiasm
fervidly displayed is foreign to the Russian character.
The subject is one which has real interest for Europe,
although at first sight it seems local and insignificant.
The Russian Emperor, it is true, is an autocrat, and may
act in every regard as he pleases. But no autocrat, how
ever theoretically omnipotent, would act wisely or safely
in this age were he to go counter to the expressed will of
his people — expressed in such manner as may be open to
that people. It appears to me that in the arrival of the
Emperor and in the manner of his reception was virtually
asked, and emphatically answered, the question of confidence
or want of confidence. The people of the capital do not know

ENTHUSIASTIC LOYALTY. £33
what may be the future of the Imperial policy. Had they
received him coldly the right reading would have been, as it
seems to me, that they disapproved of his past line of action,
and were, therefore, apprehensive regarding the probable
wisdom of the policy he might for the future pursue. In
receiving him with glowing cordiality, with a fervid warmth
compared with which the welcome the Berliners gave their
Emperor on his return from the Franco- German war was chill,
it seems to me that they in effect said, " In the past you have
done your best for us ; we know you will do the same in the
future ; we trust you blindfold."
But I am begging the question in assuming the fervid warmth
of this reception. I venture on the assumption because I
convinced myself by the most careful and dispassionate
study. I have seen many displays of popular enthusiasm,
but never have I witnessed a manifestation which impressed
me so deeply as the scene in the Kasan Cathedral on Saturday
last. It was no picked throng ; the Russians have not arrived
at the artificiality of selected representation on such an occa
sion by the issue of tickets of admission. To the extent of
its accommodation the cathedral was as free to the mujik
as to the tchinovnik. As the Emperor walked up to the
Iconostas, the clear alley in the centre of the cathedral was
maintained after a fashion ; but the throng closed in behind,
and the Czarevna, who followed her Imperial father-in-law,
became engulfed in the human whirlpool, and got lost
altogether for the moment. When the Emperor set out on
his return to the door the wildest confusion of enthusiasm
had full sway. The few policemen could do nothing.
General Trepoff, their chief, a small-sized man, who had
been ushering the Emperor, was overwhelmed and whirled
away clean out of sight. His people closed in around the
Czar till he had no power to move. The great struggle was
but to touch him, and the chaos of policemen, officers, shriek
ing women, and enthusiastic mujiks swayed and heaved to
and fro ; the Emperor in the centre, pale, his lips trembling
with emotion, just as I have seen him when his troops were
cheering him on the battle-field, struggling for the possibility
to stand and move forward, for he was lifted by the pressure

234 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
clean off his feet. By dint of main strength exerted by
some officers a way after a fashion was slowly made for him,
or rather, it may be said, that the densely pressed struggling
throng, with the helpless Emperor wedged in its heart,
drifted gradually towards the door. As the fringe of the
crowd brought up against the wall on either side the doors
a serious catastrophe seemed imminent, for women were
shrieking because of the terrible pressure, and the throng
in its eagerness to struggle within touch of the Emperor
had lost all restraint or regard for consequences. But
ultimately his Majesty was extricated from what Were
literally the embraces of his enthusiastic subjects, and when
he had once got outside, the tempest of the pressure abated
within the building.
Again, as he reached the door of the palace, and got out of his
sleigh, the throng closed in on the terraced portico with
irresistible impetuosity. All self-command was lost. Men
threw their caps in the air, reckless of their non-recovery,
clambered on each other's backs, struggled on to the balus
trades of the terrace. The carriage of the Czarevna had
followed at some little distance the cortege which accom
panied the sleigh in which had travelled the Emperor and
his son, the Grand Duke Sergius. How her Highness, whose
sparkle and brightness never deserted her in the turmoil in
the cathedral, got out or was got out from that building,
I cannot tell. I am certain that she never could have
struggled in the wake of the Emperor to the main door by
which he made his exit, and I believe she must have left by
a side door, escaping the seething throng in which Czar and
Metropolitan, generals and clergy, were swayed about like
corks in a whirlpool. As her carriage approached the terrace,
the populace utilized it as a coign of vantage. Men scrambled
on the horses, the box, the roof, the wheels ; progress became1
utterly impossible. A batch of cadets and students who lined
the foot of the terrace were equal to the occasion. They opened
the carriage door by dint of immense exertion ; they lifted
out the bright little lady, who was clearly in the intensest
enjoyment of an incident which must have been unprece
dented, and they passed her from hand to hand above their

THE REQUIEM IN THE FORTRESS CATHEDRAL. 235
heads till she was lifted over the balustrades, and finally
set down on the terrace in front of the door. Her lady in
waiting, the Countess Opraxin, followed her mistress, trans
ported in the same manner.
There are some things in their arrangements of which the
Russians appear to do much better than do we, in others a
degree of childishness is apparent which says but little either
for their discernment or enlightenment. Perhaps there
were rather too few police in the Kasan Cathedral for the
maintenance of order, but after all no harm was done, and
if the place had been over-policed, a scene, the fervid signifi
cance of which none who saw it can ever forget, could not
have occurred. But the Russian police, in virtue of letting
people alone as much as possible, and acting on the belief
that men are reasonable animals, and will help in keeping
order and aiding arrangements if only treated rationally, con
trive to get through their work in a much more satisfactory
and practical manner than our metropolitan gentlemen do,
who on the occasion of any public ceremony regard it as
their prime function to be as obstructive, impracticable, and
unwilling to give and take as natural woodenness, with a
superstructure of official bearishness, suggests to them
harassing expedients.
I saw the Emperor to-day quietly taking a solitary stroll along
the quay, and accepting a petition from a peasant who knelt
down in his pathway. Imagine the wild fussiness of our
policemen should it occur to the Queen during a visit to
Buckingham Palace to make a little promenade along the
Mall to Marlborough House. Active and intelligent Police-
constables A 1 and Z 4,004 would be down like a hundred
of bricks on the audacious plebeian who should manifest
symptoms of an anxiety to approach within a dozen yards
of our royalty. What chance would a Bethnal Green coster-
monger or a Bermondsey tanner have had of getting inside
St. Paul's Cathedral on the Thanksgiving Day for the
recovery of the Prince of Wales. The Emperor to-day
visited the Fortress Cathedral for the centenary requiem
service in memory of his grandfather, Alexander I., and all
the notables of the capital were present at the ceremony.

236 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
The route lay over the Nicholas Bridge, and along the most
traffic-frequented thoroughfares of the island of Vassily
Ostroff. Had the ceremony been in England the bridge and
the route would have been closed for traffic for hours in
advance. Here there was no closure at all. A couple of
policemen outriders preceded some little distance the royal
cortege, and so the way was cleared quite effectually, and'
without fussiness. The Emperor had barely left the cathedral
when the common people, nobody deterring them, were
allowed to crowd in and see the pretty bowers of greenery in
which the marble tombs had been embowered. They ,
mingled among the officers en grand tenue with no sense
on either side of incongruity, and if a peasant had a ques
tion to ask, he had no hesitation in putting it to the general
next to him, and there was just as little hesitation about the
pleasantly civil reply.
But the childishness of some actions is calculated to excite no
little irritation. The other day I sent a telegram to the
telegraph office 230 words long. Next evening I received a
note stating that this telegram " had resolved itself into
forty-nine words," which was a smooth way of saying that
the remainder had been cut out and not transmitted. I have
not yet seen these exceptionally fortunate forty-nine words
in print, so I do not precisely know what they were, but I
in vain puzzled myself as to what expressions in the message
should have met with the disapproval of the censor. I had
referred to the arrangements for the Emperor's arrival on
the following day, had stated that the report was current of
his intention to pay a visit to the Army of the Caucasus, and
had stated, while most Russians with whom I had spoken
had expressed their anxiety for an honourable peace, they
professed themselves full of desire that the war should be car
ried on and on, rather than that any other than an honourable
and advantageous peace should be the issue. I could see
no harm in all this, so I next day visited the director of the
Telegraphic Service, and made a respectful but energetic
remonstrance. General Luders was charmingly polite, but
accepted the full responsibility of the excision. The chief
offence of the telegram was the mention of the Caucasus

1 TELEGRAPH CENSORSHIP. 237
journey. It might or might not be the case that the intelli
gence I had tried to transmit was correct, but it was not
desirable that it should be made public.
Now, all St. Petersburg was talking of the design to make
this journey ; of course no mention had been made of it in
the Russian journals ; but it was discussed everywhere, from
the salon to the vodki cellar. Anybody might write of it, of
course, who chose. General Luders did not pretend that I
could not have the information printed in England in two
days by the simple expedient of posting a letter containing
it to your Berlin Correspondent, with a request to telegraph
it on to England. It is extremely probable, indeed, that any
intelligence on the subject I might have wished to send
would have been stale, by reason of its having been antici
pated by telegram from Roumania. Under such circum
stances, to excise the passage from my telegram seemed
a line of action similar to that adopted by the ostrich, when
she sticks her head in the sand and fancies herself thus
made invisible.
Scarcely any of the members of the Emperor's military suite
have returned with him from Bulgaria, and the entourage,
I understand, remains virtually intact there, in anticipation
of his speedy return. There appears some doubt respecting
the carrying out of the project of the Caucasus journey ;
nor is any date definitely spoken of for his Majesty's return to
Bulgaria. There seems, indeed, some uncertainty as to
whether he will return at all. Peace is hardly mentioned
here, except in an abstract and quite unpractical sense ; but
the meeting of Parliament at an earlier date than usual, and
other events in England, are exciting much comment, and
the belief seems all but universal that an important Crisis is
impending.
* St. Petersburg, December 26th. — There are a good many
readings of the proverb that " Heaven helps those who
help themselves." Cromwell rendered it with all his sen
tentious pithiness when he ordered his Ironsides at Dunbar
to " Trust in God and keep their powder dry." Lord
Palmerston treated to another version of it the Edinburgh

238 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
deputation who asked him to appoint a national day of
prayer for the mitigation of cholera, when he suggested;
the efficacy of prayer would be materially increased by \
strenuous exertions in cleansing their dirty Old Town.
But perhaps Frederick the Great's rendering was the most
epigrammatic when he said that God was indeed the God of
Battles, but that He was the God of Battalions also.
In this sense, it is very certain that the Russian arms ought to
prosper mightily ; and in the same sense it must be obvious
that, although Lord Beaconsfield once pronounced himself
to be on the side of the angels, the likelihood could not be
anticipated of reciprocal patronage on the part of Heaven.
The Emperor Alexander left the other day a territory on
which stood at least four distinct Russian armies, and he to
day reviewed in the garrison of his capital another army
than which a smaller force has over and over again changed
the fortunes of a momentous campaign. There stood on the
Petersburg parade ground at noon to-day 20,000 soldiers of
as fine physique and as martial aspect as any army in Europe
can show. The Russian Guards are on the campaign, but the
mere depots which they have left behind showed on parade
to-day a greater strength than that of our whole Aldershot
Division. The cavalry on the ground was numerically
stronger than all our cavalry on home service put to
gether. Yet it was but a mere section of the household
cavalry, and there was not on the ground a single trooper of
the line cavalry. The Cuirassier division of the Guard has
not gone out to the war, and the wintry sun, struggling
through the gaunt branches of the trees, glinted on the
brazen breasts of the serried squadrons of the massive
Chevalier Garde Regiment, and on the brazen eagles which
crown the helmets of the ponderous horsemen of the Garde
Cheval Regiment. But aught else of Guard cavalry on the
field to-day was but fragments of regiments whose service
squadrons are now echeloned from the Danube to the Balkans.
The artillery of the Guard three months ago defiled through
the streets of Bucharest on its way to the bridge at Simnitza.
Yet here to-day were several batteries of Guard Artillery-
mere reserves, indeed, but with a greater number of guns

REVIEW IN ST. PETERSBURG. 239
behind the long traces than the whole artillery of the Servian
army can show. The garrison of the capital is supplemented
by a division of the line, the men composing which seem to
be more or less picked men.
A country with a population so huge as that of Russia, and in
which the power of drawing that population into the army
is virtually unlimited, can feel no serious exhaustion from
the necessity of replacing the casualties which have as yet
occurred in her armies in the field. In the gloomiest view,
she can be but little strained as yet in this respect, so far as
the raw human material is concerned. In the transition
state of the Russian army, it is not to be expected that it can
furnish such a splendid second line force as Prussia in 1870-1
was able to do when her divisions of veteran landwehr men
showed the youngsters of the line how old soldiers can fight,
in the deadly combat of Maizieres-les-Metz, and on the snow-
clad slopes of Montretout. But all the stalwart manhood of
Russia constitutes the reserve for the Russian armies. It is
surprising what good cannon-fodder the greenest soldiers
make, if only they are not massed in regiments by them
selves, but incorporated into the ranks in which older soldiers
stand. During the Crimean War we despatched, even to
our cavalry regiments in the field, lads who had been civilians
six weeks before they were hustled on board the transports.
I believe infantry men quitted our shores before they had
worn uniform for a fortnight. Yet no man can say that
these Johnny Raws failed us in the hour of need. But the
Russians have in no wise reached that pass as yet that they
need hurry raw, untrained levies down to the regiments
which are confronting the enemy. They can and do take
drafts for the field regiments — not to the depletion of the
reserve battalions of these regiments — but from the divisions
which remain at home.
Let me give an example. The nominal infa,ntry strength of
the Government of Wilna is two divisions, the headquarters
of one being at Wilna, the headquarters of the other at
Bielostok. The Wilna Division was called out to form part
of the army of operation, and is now in Bulgaria. The
Bielostok Division stood fast within the region over which

240 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the Governor of Wilna presides. Probably it was attenuated
by drafts taken for the service division, but the gaps were
filled up by indents on the civilian reserve at disposition.
Thus to-day the Bielostok Division stands at its full strength.
Suppose there has been a desperate battle in Bulgaria, and
that one-third of the strength of the sister division has been
placed hors de combat. It becomes necessary to fill up the
gaps in the ranks left by the losses. This is not done by
making a clean sweep of the recruits in the depot battalions
of the regiments of that division. Men only who have under
gone some considerable training are drawn from these, and
the complement of the drafts is made up of trained soldiers
taken from the regiments of the sister division — the Bielostok
Division which has been at home all the time. This opera
tion explains the observation made recently by correspon
dents with the army in the field, that battalions, which had
received reinforcements to compensate for losses, now show
a strange variety in the figures on the caps which indicate
the number of the regiment to which each man belongs.
No doubt owing to the concentration of its population on
agricultural pursuits, and to the sparseness of its population '
in proportion to its vast area, Russia must feel the strain of
the losses in war, and of the resultant measures for their
compensation, much sooner than would a country in which
the conditions are different. But I find no evidence that she
is as yet severely suffering from a tendency to depletion.
After the Servian war had lasted three months, there was
not a public vehicle in the streets of Belgrade, because every
coachman had been drafted into the army. To-day, in St.
Petersburg there is a sleigh and its istvostchik to about every
fifty persons of the gross population of the capital. The
extent of the drain may be roughly put into figures. The
total withdrawal from civilian avocations for military
purposes — that is to say, the total number now so actually
withdrawn — may be set down at one million persons, and this
. is a high estimate. It includes soldiers in the field, both in
Europe and Asia, reserves actually under arms, garrisons,
military labourers under military law, &c, as well as losses
up to the present date. The total male population of Eussia

NEW CONDITIONS OF WARFARE. 241
is over forty millions. It may be reckoned that one male in
four is physically capable of bearing arms. The withdrawal
for war purposes from the sections of population available is
therefore about one man in every ten, a. proportion which can
scarcely be reckoned to border upon depletion.
It may safely be held then that Russia could afford, so far as
the raw material of fighting men goes, to continue a bloody
war for some time to come without finding herself suffering
from exhaustion. Why, between December, 1806, and
February, 1807, the Russian losses in battle, out of a popula
tion not one-tenth so large as the present population of
Russia, were within a few thousands of the losses she has
suffered as well in Asia as in Europe from the beginning of
the war to the surrender of Plevna. In one battle, on the
fell day of Borodino, Russia gave to the demon of war one-
half as heavy a tribute as she has paid since she drew the
sword in April up to the present hour. But war is not made
by dint alone of stout and plentiful soldiers. In the old days
they reckoned for more than they can be reckoned now, and
it mattered less to Rutosoff, as he gazed on the melee in which
his stubborn serfs struggled hand to hand with the grenadires
of Ney and the keen-sworded cuirassiers of Caulaincourt,
that his army was exceptionally under-officered, than it did
to Schahoffskoy as from the heights of Radisovo he watched
his under-officered battalions of gallant inexpert lads meeting
death with hopeless indomitable valour for want of leaders
to show them what to do. The conditions of war have
changed since the fate of battle waved to and fro on the snow
on which fell the shadow of the fir-trees of Eylau. A larger
proportion of officers to men are now needed than ever were
before required ; and this is true, even in the face of the
fact that six months' fighting and campaigning have changed
the raw levies of midsummer into the veterans of winter.
yi soldier, in the nature of things, is more easily made than an
officer, but the officer now takes longer time to make than
ever he did before. The weakness of the Russian armies is
not now, and will not be for a long time, however strenuously
the war endures, in men ; but its weakness in officers, always
a serious drag on its efficiency, is more noticeable than ever
VOL. II. R

242 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
before, and the evil must grow in aggravation in proportiof
to the prolongation of active warfare. There were too few
officers at first, and throughout the fighting they have died
with gallant, reckless freedom. There are plenty of men
forthcoming for the Bielostok Division, which I cited above ;¦
but the officers of it are sparse in the extreme.
On parade to-day there was not a squadron or a company that
was not under-officerecl. There is an actual momentous and
dangerous depletion of the officerhood of the Russian army.
The seriousness of the evil has been apparent in combating
with the Turks, whose strong point certainly does not he ini
officers. In taking into account the contingency of hostile
relations with any Power whose soldiers might have enjoyed
training in the tactics of modern warfare, and whose officers
might be skilled in their application, it could not well be but
that the scantiness of officers in the armies of Russia should
occasion solicitude. Nor could such solicitude find mitigating
circumstances in the existence of a large body of trained and:
seasoned non-commissioned officers to be relied on in emergen
cies. It is not easy to discern in what material respect the
Russian non-commissioned officers differ from the Eussian
private. He has, of course, all the virtues of the latter, and
they are neither few nor unimportant ; he shares the cha
racteristics in an equal degree, of which, if he were quit, the
Russian linesman would be the perfection of a soldier. Ton
cannot make an efficient non-commissioned officer by havings
recourse to the simple expedient of stitching stripes on his
arm or a slip of gold braiding round his collar.
The financial condition and prospects of Russia may be such as
to occasion more solicitude to her authorities in relation to
the expediency of prolonged warfare than is to be caused by
any purely military consideration ; but this is a subject of^
which I cannot treat because of my ignorance of it. I do not
know that the problem has ever been practically worked out,
whether it be a worse predicament for a State engaged in
warfare to have plenty of money but no men, or plenty of men
and no money. The Turks have gone a long way to prove
that it is possible to make a good fight where the men exist,
although the money-bags are to all appearance empty ; but

FEELING AGAINST ENGLAND. 243
the fighting possibilities of the converse phase remain unde
fined. To the superficial observer, it may be observed,
Russia shows no symptoms of impecuniosity, at all events in
her capital. All classes seem to thrive in contentment, and
there are no beggars. But perhaps General Trepoff forbids
street begging, and if so I am not surprised at the non
appearance of it, for the Colonel Henderson of St. Petersburg
is not the kind of man to be trifled with.
The ill-feeling against England is intensifying, owing probably
to the disquietude which is obviously being caused by doubt
as to the course which England may take. There is to a
Briton a certain sense of satisfaction in the discernment of
this disquietude. No doubt aU Britons would prefer that
their country were the object of universal and [ardent love ;
but in default of this, the feeling is natural, even if it be
a human weakness, that it is infinitely pleasanter to our
national self-love to be disliked than to be despised or
ignored. " Praise me or pitch into me," I once heard an
artist say to a critic ; " I don't much mind which way it is,
but don't, please, omit to notice me." Of the official world
of St. Petersburg I have little conversance, but the following
may be accepted as one of the most recent utterances
emanating' from the Foreign Office in regard to England, " If
it wants war it will have to declare it ; if it wants peace, it
will have to wait for it."

R 2

244 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

CHAPTER IX.
CONSTANTINOPLE, THE DANUBE, AND THE BLACK SEA.
Effects of the Fall of Plevna on Opinion in Turkey. — Turkish Views of the
Situation. — Expectation of English Intervention. — Increased Desire for
Peace. — Exhaustion of Turkish Resources. — Unpopularity of the Proposal
to enrol Christians. — Assembling of the Turkish Parliament. — Failure oj
the New Constitution. — Proceedings of the New Legislature. — Rumoured
Recall of Midhat Pacha. — Arrest of Jewish Bankers. — Depreciation of tie
Turkish Currency. — The Blockade of the Russian Black Sea Ports. — Irregu
larities in its Enforcement. — Alleged Illegal Arrest of Foreign Vessels.-
Rustchuk and Giurgevo.— Condition of the Village of Slobosia.— The
Russian Batteries. — Excellence of Turkish Earthworks. — Bombardment of
Rustchuk. — Turkish Outposts Frozen. — The Danube Pontoon Bridges.-
The Question of Transport and Supplies. — A Thaw. — Affairs in the Crimea!-:
— Naval Operations in the Black Sea. — Capture of a Turkish Troopship. J.
A Cruise in the Euxine. — Odessa. — Carelessness of the Blockading Force.
Before proceeding with the narrative of the various passagi
of the Balkans and the invasion of Roumelia by the Eussii
it will be convenient to take a glance at the state of affairs iJ
Constantinople, and on the Danube, and to introduce soma
letters descriptive of the later naval operations in the Blaclj
Sea. : Constantinople, December 26th. — The fall of Plevna forthj"
moment had a remarkable effect upon the Turkish popnlatio|
The news leaked out from the embassies, and although it lid
not even yet been officially published by the Government, th|
Turkish newspapers soon gave the fact publicity. Thi
majority among the Turks had I believe come to the conch
sion that the situation was almost desperate, that they conl
not compete with Russia without help, and that no help m
likely to be afforded them. Hence the blow at Plevna stui
ned them. They believed it to be the beginning of ti
end.

TURKISH HOPES AND APPREHENSIONS. 245
The wisest, too, among the Turks have, I believe, come to see
that the longer the war lasts the worse are the terms which
Russia is likely to exact. The programme of the Conference,
whittled down by the friends of the Turkish Government
until it might be made acceptable to Turkey, and until,
indeed, the proposals contained in it seemed hardly worth
accepting or rejecting, was nevertheless rejected. A Turk
who wishes for peace may well doubt, or, indeed, may have
no doubt that a mistake was made in rejecting them. The
terms which are offered now are hard, assuming that those
contained in the newspapers as emanating from Russia are
what she demands. The loss of Bulgaria, of Bosnia, and
Herzegovina, of a portion of Armenia, is the infliction of a
terrible penalty upon Turkey, and one which the Turks are
naturally unwilling, to pay if any way can be found of avoid-.
ing it. But the question was, and to some extent is, can the
penalties be increased in case of further defeat ?
And then there comes the possibility of the loss of
Thessaly, of Epirus, of Crete, and even of Constantinople
itself. In the interest of their country the more thoughtful
among the Turks might well ask that something should be
done to bring about a settlement at once. Such is the view
that I know to have been taken by some men of this class.
Even in the Turkish newspapers writers have said as much.
I telegraphed the statement of one of them, that it was not
to be supposed that a nation of 15,000,000 could compete
with one of 75,000,000.
There was just one chance left, that some other Power should
come to their assistance. The country to which they have
always looked has of course been England. But since the decla
ration of LordDerby, given inreply to the deputation headedby
Lord Stratheden and Campbell, the hope that England would
intervene had greatly lessened — had, in fact, almost dis
appeared. The deputation and the reply were the wettest
blanket which has yet been applied to Turkish hopes of
assistance from England. The leader of the deputation is
comparatively well known out here, and is known not to be
likely to have an overwhelming influence on English or other
politics. The Turks sought to obtain information about his

246 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
following, but every Englishman was bound to admit that he
knew nothing about them. The words, however, of Lord
Derby were published in most, probably in all, the local
newspapers, and the last shred of hope of interference
vanished. The one hope which the Turks had left was in
their own arms and their own valour. The disaster at Plevna
showed them that this had failed ; while, in a kind of blind
despair, they spoke of fighting to the last cartridge, they yet
spoke of mediation, and trusted to the friendly offices of the
Powers to obtain terms for them.
I have hitherto spoken in the past tense, and have done so
intentionally, because what I have attempted to describe was,
rather than is, the feeling among the Turks. Now, again,
there has sprang up among them the hope of English inter
ference. It is whispered about that the Turks have been
told to hold out at any cost, to refuse any terms which
Russia may offer, above all to refuse to make the concession
which shall allow the ships of war belonging to Russia or to
any other Power to pass the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles ;
for that then England will assuredly come to their help. I
know nothing of the origin of this rumour, though it is con
fidently stated to have arisen from representations made by
Mr. Layard.
I know enough of the place also to recognize that, the wish
being father to the thought, it is quite possible that the state
ment is a pure invention so far as Mr. Layard's name is
connected with it. But the statement and the belief in its
truth is widespread, and is in every way simply and purely
mischievous unless it is true. If it be true, the English people
will probably know the fact some days before this letter can
reach England, and I, of course, have nothing more to say on
it. But if it be not true, it is desirable that the Turks should
be rid of the illusion. In fairness and justice to the Turks
themselves, these false hopes should be destroyed.
I have at various times had to point out how the action of the
English Government had misled the Turks ; how the refusal
to accept the Berlin" Memorandum, the sending of the Fleet
to Besika Bay and its continuance there, the speeches of
Lord Beaconsfield, and the refusal to maintain the European

DESIRE FOR PEACE. 247
concert on the rejection of the terms at the Conference, have
naturally led the Turks to believe that we should help
them. The Turks maintain — and not altogether without
reason — that they have just cause of complaint against the
English Government for having deluded them with false
hopes. We are, therefore, bound as a nation not to allow them
any longer to be deluded unless we intend to help them.
They have arrived now at a crisis in the war, and if England
sees no reason to change her policy of neutrality, the wisest
advice to give the Turks is, those who are urging them to
continue the war are luring them on to their destruction.
At any rate they have the right to know, once for all, that
they need not expect any help from England, and that, all
rumours and statements notwithstanding from people profess
ing to have information, we mean to be neutral.
The desire for peace among all classes has now become very
strong. The feeling among the Turks is that they have
shown Europe that they can still fight well, but that they can
not be expected to do more unless they have foreign aid. The
terms which they may obtain now need not include the loss
of Thessaly and Epirus, while, if the war continues, these
provinces will probably be lost also. Their resources in men
and money have been poured out lavishly, but the cost in
both has been immense. The drain in money will take them
years to recover. The drain in men can never be recovered.
Moreover, the Turks at least do not lose sight of the question,
that the struggle is not one between Russia and Turkey only,
but primarily one between the Moslem and the Christian
inhabitants of the Empire. The natural course of events
was bringing about every year a marked diminution of the
numbers of the first as compared with those of the second.
Every soldier who falls on the Turkish side increases the
disproportion. Poverty is increasing everywhere, and the
events of the last two months have made resistance next to
hopeless. Unless, therefore, there should be a promise of
external aid, I do not believe that the Government will
determine to continue a war which, the longer it lasts, will
exact from the vanquished the worse terms.
The silly proposal to employ Christians, or rather to make

248 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Europe believe that because a few might be enrolled in Con
stantinople, any considerable force would be brought into the
field against Russia, still continues to occupy attention. As
I explained in a telegram, the Greeks are divided upon the
question. Upon the assurance that the proposal was to arm
the Greek Christians solely for the purpose of preserving
order in the districts in which they should been rolled, the
Greek Patriarch accepted it.
On Sunday last the Encyclical of the Patriarch was appointed
to be read in all the Greek churches of the capital. In Pera,
where the congregations are wealthy, the reading passed off
without any disturbance.1 In Stamboul, on the contrary,
there was hardly a church where the reading did not call forth
signs of disapproval. In three the document was torn out of
the hands of the priest ; in others there were cries in oppo
sition. I venture to predict that if the war should shortly
come to an end the proposal will be altogether dropped, unless
the European Powers urge that it should be accepted ; and
in time of peace I think it probable that neither the Greeks
nor Armenians would object to a proposal to arm them in
proportion to their numbers and to give them Christian }
officers, but would rather be delighted at the chance. If the
war should go on there will probably be a decree allowing
substitutes, and the wealthy Christians will be made to con
tribute money to the Government. The employment of
Christians in the army was one of the most important and
valuable reforms promised in the Hatti Humayoun. In the
decree promulgated by Abdul Aziz two years ago the con
cession was again granted, and there was yet time to have
carried it into effect. Not a step, however, was ever taken
to give effect to the promise, and of course the Christians
object to being called upon to serve when Turkish recruits
have failed, when they have no officers, and therefore no
security that they will not be mixed in small numbers with
Moslems, and when the reform is only to be carried out when
the enemy of the Turks is threatening the gates.
: : Constantinople, January 4th. — Once more the Chamber of
Deputies has been called together. At the conclusion of its first

THE TURKISH PARLIAMENT. 249
session I mentioned that it had shown evidence that it might
become an important element in the State. Many of the
members had spoken out boldly against the abuses which
existed in the places they represented. Moslem and
Christian alike complained of the bad government which
afflicted all classes of the community, and of the centrali
zation which sacrificed the provinces to support the oligarchy
of Pachas in Constantinople. It was found that without
entering upon the special grievances of the Christians there
was an abundant crop which injured alike Mohammedans
and Christians.
Towards the end of the session the Christian members,
emboldened by the courage with which the Moslems spoke,
complained of the injustice with which they were treated, and
one member in particular dared to state what the Kurds had
been doing to the Christians in Armenia. The great defect
of the new Parliament was, however, that it was absolutely
powerless. The Pachas were perfectly willing to let the
members say what they liked, on condition that the members
would allow the Pachas to do what they liked. For the
purpose of finding out what a number of men belonging to
various parts of the Empire thought about the Government,
the Chamber was of use. For the practical purposes of
legislation it was useless. Many resolutions were adopted,
but, as Midhat Pacha has pointed out, nothing whatever has
been done to give them the force of law.
In one respect, indeed, and in this respect only, the Turkish
Parliament has been and is an unmitigated nuisance. When
ever a Minister during the last few months has wished to get
rid of responsibility, his plea has always been that now there
is a Chamber everything must be brought before it. In
administration the Government of Turkey has often been
described as a weak despotism, and this reputation has been
gained to a considerable extent by the extreme difficulty in
finding a responsible person. One department shifts the
burden of responsibility upon another. The other refers it
to somebody else, and suitors of every kind find difficulty in
getting hold of anybody who will take the trouble to hold
himself responsible. There are no permanent heads of

250 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
departments, and the whims of the Palace have so often
changed the various Ministers, and rendered the future of
office so uncertain, that each Minister is unwilling either to
put himself out of the way to do anything or to accept
responsibility.
The result is that for years past one of the standing complaints
against the Government has been that it is difficult to get any
thing done. There is probably not an Ambassador here whose
work would not be lessened by three-fourths if the depart
ments of the Government could be made to accept responsi
bility as similar departments do in Western Europe. The
matter, however, has become worse since the establishment
of the Constitution. When a Turkish Minister is now
pressed by an Ambassador, his answer is that the matter
must be referred to the Chamber, or that the Constitution
forbids him to decide without sending it before the Council
of State. While, therefore, on the one hand, the Chamber
is not allowed to advance any matter by legislation, it is
made a plea for delay on the other.
The Parliament will probably assist the Ministers by ridding
them of the responsibility of accepting terms of peace.
There are, of course, a number of Pachas who are out, who
will be ready to* make as much capital as possible out of the
acceptance of the terms which may be obtained from Russia.
Those who are in know this, and will equaUy, of course, be
glad to have the burden of responsibility put upon the
shoulders of the Chamber.
The first business of the new Parliament was to elect its Presi
dent. Last session Achmet Vevik Pacha was the President.
Subsequently he was made Governor of Adrianople, but a
few weeks ago was dismissed. It is generally believed that
the Goverment is very desirous to keep him out of the
Chamber. He was himself unwilling to be re-elected as
President, and addressed a letter to the Stamboul in which
he stated that he did not wish to hold that position. He did,
however, wish to be a deputy, and whatever his faults may
be there is no doubt that he would make a very useful
deputy. He is probably the most learned Turk living ; and
though his ability is not nearly so great as he himself esti-

DEBATE ON THE SULTAN'S SPEECH. 251
mates it, yet he could often give useful advice and add light
to questions under discussion. He was nominated in several
places, but nowhere elected, and his non-election is attributed
to the opposition, if not to the direct orders or manipulation,
of the Government. The Chamber selected three nominees
for the President's chair, and out- of these the Sultan chose
Hassan Fechmi Effendi. Hassan has hitherto acted as a
Turkish advocate. At one time he was a judge in the courts
for the trial of commercial cases, but resigned his position,
probably because he could not afford to retain it. He is an
able and, I believe, altogether honest man, one who belongs to
the very salt of his race, and who showed by his conduct
last session that he is among the few who are willing to
make the concessions which justice requires for granting
equality to the Christian races, and to urge on the reforms
which are needed to lift the country out of the depths of its
commercial stagnation.
The Chamber has been occupied up to yesterday in discussing
the answer to the Speech by the Sultan. To judge by the
three days' debates which have taken place, the present. House
is not likely to be less tractable than the last. The five
bureaux or committees of the House were not at all disposed
to make the answer a mere echo of the Speech. On Tuesday
the House divided on the question of the wording of a
passage expressing disapprobation of the conduct of political
and military affairs by the Cabinet. Sadyk Pacha produced
the draft of a new answer which was taken to come from
the Ministers, but this was rejected, and forty- one members
voted for, and forty against, the obnoxious phrase censuring
the Cabinet. Again, an attempt was made to get the
obnoxious phrase altered, but the attempt was met by
another modification on the part of the Opposition which,
instead of the Cabinet, condemned " those who hold the
Executive Power." The passage thus made more compre
hensive, and expressing the opinion that the military and
political situation of the country would have been different if
it had been more wisely dealt with by those who hold the
Executive Power, was then carried by a majority of twenty-
four votes, the numbers being fifty-six against thirty-two.

252 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
It is said that this majority was obtained in consequence of a
rumour which was widely spread for a day or two that
Midhat would be recalled. There can be no doubt that this
ex- Grand Vizier has still a considerable number of followers \
in Constantinople, and that the belief is held by not a few
that he will be recalled. I do not give this as my own
opinion, because, remembering the circumstances under
which he was banished, I am inclined to doubt whether his
return would not be regarded as dangerous to too many of
those now in power, but the existence of the desire to see
him recalled by a good many of the Young Turkey party is
a fact to be taken note of.
At the sitting held yesterday, when the Address was again
taken into consideration, there was, if anything, a heighten
ing of the tone of the .Opposition, notwithstanding all the
means which had been brought into play in the interval to
provoke a reaction in favour of the Ministry. In reply to
the stereotyped argument equivalent to Mr. Lincoln's phrase
of swopping horses while crossing a stream, several deputies,
and especially the representative of Beyrout — the late
secretary of several Grand Viziers — whom I have already
mentioned, rejoined that that was a worn-out excuse, as the
country had always been in difficulties, and that consequently
there had always been a pretext for putting off reforms, and
probably always would be. One of the sorest points raised
during the discussion which was somewhat wild, tending, as
the President judiciously remarked, to wander into a dis
cussion of measures to be taken rather than of the terms of
' the Address in reply, was in consequence of an observation
with regard to a demand for a certain sum in caime or paper
money, and a suggestion as to the advisability of verifying
the employment of the 15,000,000 of caimes already issued.
The Minister of Finance will have to appear before the
Chamber to answer this question. He is not the only
member of the Government who is already subject to an
interpellation, the Minister of Marine at the present moment,
Said Pacha, ferik of the palace, being obliged to give expla
nations as to how it happened that the Mersina, with the
much vaunted blockade and ironclad fleet of the Black Sea,

ARREST OF JEWISH BANKERS. 253
fell so quietly into the hands of the Russians with over 700
troops on board.
Six of the seven Jewish bankers, who were arrested on the
ground of speculating in caimes, and who were released
through the influence of Mr. Zarifi, were sent for, and after
being subjected to an interrogation, were sentenced, without
appearing before any tribunal, or even a court martial, which
is supreme during a state of siege, to six months' imprison
ment and £50 fine. At the same time an order has been
given that the same penalty will be inflicted on any money
changer engaged in purchasing caimes in advance. The
Saraffs, or money-changers, talk at the present moment of
shutting up their shops, having the double fear of back-
sheeshing the agents of the police on the one hand, and of
police denunciations on the other. The Jewish money
changers, who are mostly honest though poor men, are likely
to have a lively time. The Government is convinced that it
can regulate the price of its currency, and that it is the Jews
and other money-changers who do all the mischief and make
the price of the 100 piastre note oscillate, as it did yesterday,
between 230 and 260 in six hours.
The letter below relates to the question of the blockade of
the Black Sea Ports, and the way in which the Turkish mode of
conducting it affected the rights and obligations of the neutral
Powers : —
: : Constantinople, December. — The question of the efficiency, and,
therefore, of the legal existence, of the Turkish blockade is one
which must, sooner or later, come before the English public.
The facts necessary for the formation of an opinion on it are
these. At the beginning of the war the Turkish Govern
ment issued an official notification stating that the whole
line of the Russian coast on the Black Sea was to be
blockaded, and that the blockade would be maintained by
an Ottoman fleet in sufficient force. A proposal was made
to station a vessel in the Bosphorus, but the representatives
of the Powers, with Mr. Layard at their head, refused to
allow any such violation of the treaties by which the waters

254, WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of the BoSphorus are made neutral. For some time no
vessels attempted to run the blockade. Obviously it was a
great risk for any vessel to do so, because three miles from
the Black Sea end of the Bosphorns, the Ottoman Govern
ment could station a vessel or two, and count almost with
certainty on a capture. Presently, however, as I reported
in your columns several weeks ago, it got whispered about
that vessels had come in from the Black Sea without molest
ation, and though it was perfectly known in Constantinople
that they had come from Russian ports, they were allowed
to pass through to their respective destinations. It was
openly stated at the time that permission was given to these
vessels by the Ottoman authorities, and I believe there can
be no reasonable doubt whatever of the fact. In at least
one case, which was brought under my own knowledge, a
vessel left here avowedly with permission to go to Russia,
and returned without hindrance. How many more went I
am unable to say. It began, indeed, to be considered as
quite a regular and permitted traffic. Probably backsheesh
had to go somewhere, but that was nobody's business except
of the givers and receivers.
A Prize Court was instituted, and ruled in all the cases brought
before it until the 17th of November, that if a vessel had
escaped the line of the blockading squadron she could not
be captured. It is no secret, indeed, that the legal advisers
of the Porte were of this opinion. They held with certain,
though by no means with all, of the Continental authorities
on the law of blockade, that the line of the blockading
squadron once broken through, there was no right to capture
a blockade runner during the further continuance of the
voyage, or, at least, unless the chase had been begun and was
continued till capture. Suddenly, however, a change was
made in the opinion of the Prize Court, and the curious part
about it is that the change was exactly contemporaneous with
certain representations made to the Porte by Mr. Layard.
The truth is, that when everybody in Constantinople knew
that vessels were allowed to come from Russia, Italians, Ger
mans, and others began to ask why they should not be allowed
to bring away some of the grain of Russia. Moreover, their

INEQUALITIES OF THE BLOCKADE. 255
ambassadors agreed with their view of the case, and openly
stated that in their view the blockade ought to be considered
as null. Null, either because it was not effective, or because
privileges were given to certain vessels and not to others.
If the Turks could stop ingress or egress to Russian ports and
would not, then the rule which international law lays- down
that a blockade which is not applied equally to all is illegal.
If the Turks, on the other hand, could not stop ingress and
egress, then the blockade was ineffective, and by the fourth
article of the Declaration of Paris was illegal.
Representations of this kind were, I believe, made to Mr.
Layard. ¦ No one among the representatives of foreign
Powers had the opportunity of knowing so well as he
that vessels were leaving Russian ports for Turkey and
elsewhere, because, by an arrangement between England
and Turkey, our Government takes charge in Russia of
the interest of Turkish subjects during the war, just as in
Constantinople the German Government protects the inte
rests of Russian subjects. Accordingly many, perhaps most
of these vessels, would have to get their papers in Russian
ports from the English consul. Representations, as I have
said, were made to Mr. Layard, and he, in return, made
representations to the Porte, and very properly protested
against what could only be regarded as either an ineffectual
or a not impartial blockade. These representations exactly
coincide with a change in view in the ruling of the Prize
Court.
On the 17th of last month, a vessel which had been arrested
in the Bosphorus was condemned as a blockade runner, and
avowedly on the ground that the Court had now adopted the
English and American view, the reading of international law
supported by Lushington and Wheaton : that the blockading
squadron has the right to arrest a blockade runner until she
has completed her voyage. The consternation which this
decision caused among a large class of merchants in the
place, who had evidently made up their minds that the
Government intended, for a consideration, to allow blockade
running, was very great. That the Court was right accord
ing to English law there can, I believe, be no doubt. But

256 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
there were other considerations which the Court overlooked,
but which the representatives of the nations to which the
arrested ships belong will not overlook.
A considerable number of vessels, nearly thirty I believe, have
since been arrested at anchor in the Bosphorus. The Em-
bassies are at present much occupied by the course which
they will adopt ; but I think it probable that the Italian and
the Greek will distinctly protest against the arrests as illegal.
I believe that no vessel under the British flag has even
endeavoured to run the blockade, although some of the
cargoes under the flags of Greece and Italy belong to
British subjects. Count Corti, the Italian Minister, ought
to be, and is probably, one of the first of living authorities
on the question of blockade, from the fact of his long experi
ence in the decision of the British claims arising out of the
American war ; and he does not hesitate to express a strong
opinion on the illegality of the arrests in question. The
grounds for declaring the arrests illegal are principally that
they were made in neutral waters, and that there can be no
arrest where the Government was granting permission to many
ships to pass through from Russia, and even to go to Eussia
and to return.
The waters of the Bosphorus were neutralized by the Treaty of
Adrianople, and by the capitulations have been made the
waters of each nationality which had a ship anchored in
them. European nations ha^ve never admitted Turkey
within the circle of civilized nations, and Turkey has, by
the treaties, divested herself of so much of the sovereign
power as by these treaties or capitulations she has conceded
to other nations. It is upon this condition of things that we
have in Constantinople and throughout Turkey a series of
national jurisdictions, or true imperia in imperio. A French
man here is in France, an Englishman in England, and so
on, within certain well-defined limits. The Turkish Govern
ment cannot arrest in the port of Constantinople even one of
its own subjects on board an English or other foreign mer
chant vessel. When it wants to make such an arrest, it
sends to the consular authority to which the ship belongs,
and obtains police from thence. Nor is this state of things

ARREST OF BLOCKADE RUNNERS. 257
affected by the war between Russia and Turkey, because the
capitulations expressly provide that in case of war between
Turkey and any other Power, the rights as fixed by the capit
ulations of other Powers are not to be in anywise affected.
Such a condition of jurisdiction is a remarkable one, but
it exists, and its existence is, indeed, absolutely necessary
for the safety and protection of the foreign communities
here.
No one, so far as I know, who has had any knowledge of the
subject, however much he may have been in love with the
Turks, has ever thought of suggesting that the foreign
communities should be handed over to Turkish jurisdiction.
Foreigners have a belief that in the last resort they can
obtain justice in a law court, and, therefore, conduct their
trade on that hypothesis. The native merchants, Greeks,
Armenians, and Bulgarians, have long since lost any belief in
the possibility of obtaining justice in the place where once
Justinian's jurisprudents established legal principles for all
time, and they conduct their business accordingly.
I know of no instance where the Turks have ever claimed the
right to arrest a vessel in the Bosphorus before the arrests in
question. I imagine, however, that for certain police pur
poses they could do so, as, for example, if a vessel were
smuggling. In such case, however, they would at once hand
over the vessel to the authority to which she belonged, with
a request that she would be detained until the charges were
examined. The arrest of the blockade runners was made by
the Turks while they were at anchor, and in most cases after
they had been in the Bosphorus for some days. There was
of course no pretence of capture. They had run the blockade
and had come to an anchorage in neutral waters — in waters
where the Powers had refused to allow the Government to
place a ship for the purpose of capture.
The affair has now become a diplomatic one, and, unless some
means be found of avoiding the difficulty, may lead to lively
correspondence at least. There can be little doubt that the
Turkish Government gave their notice of blockade and con
ducted their court of prize under the impression that when a
vessel had once escaped beyond the line of the blockading
VOL. II. S

258 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
squadron she had escaped altogether. They have • now
changed their opinion — have adopted what is probably the
right rule, but in avoiding one error they have fallen into
another. Having failed to capture the vessels before entering
the Bosphorus, and while the voyage was in existence, they
quietly arrest them while at anchor in neutral waters.
Having also allowed a number of vessels to pass, some by1
connivance, some by neglect, some undoubtedly by express
permission, and some by the decision of their court that they
could not be lawfully detained, they need not be surprised
that Governments to which blockade-running ships belong
claim the same right for their subjects which has been
granted to those of other Powers. Two of the ambassadors ,
openly state that they will not allow their vessels to be con
demned, and it is pretty clear that they have international
law on their side.
The following letters from another correspondent transfer our
attention from Constantinople to the Danube : —
§ Giurgevo, January 2nd. — Now that Plevna has fallen, and
men have time to look at other places which have figured in
this war, or are likely to do so still, a few words about
Rustchuk from a Giurgevo point of view are not out of
place.
I drove through the shell-battered town here on my way to
Slobosia to see as many of the sixteen batteries that compose
the Russian strength as possible. The town itself shows
more signs of life than it did, several shops being open. The
mantle of snow also helps to put a gloss on it by covering up
the deep engraving many a Turkish shell has marked on its
houses. Emerging from the town, the sleigh follows the
high road that runs westward on an embankment by the
Danube towards Slobosia. A chain of sentries shows clearly
out, like black patches on the snow. Every now and then
there are three rifles with fixed bayonets piled, apparently
put out to take care of themselves in the open plain. As we
approach the first pile out pops a soldier's head, like a rabbit
out of a hole, and I find each relief has got a cunningly con-

slobosia. 259
structed underground shelter, not very large certainly, but,
what is of more importance, very warm. The commanding
officer's house turns out to be a very much decorated sort of
pavilion, which is, he explains to me, surrounded by a sort of
pleasure garden, in summer much frequented by the Giur
gevo people.
As usual with Russian officers, I received a most courteous re
ception, and his office work completed, my host and I get
into a sleigh and go off to the batteries. I always flattered
myself my nerves were as good as my neighbours', but must
confess to feeling uncomfortable when, taking his cigar from
his mouth, the colonel calmly remarks, " This high road here,
which we are now on, is the most dangerous place we have.
You see the shells generally fly high of the batteries, light a
few yards behind, and sweep the ground across the road."
A few yards further and the sleigh stuck fast in the snow ;
we start only to stick again, and at the end of what seemed
a long time, and must have been five minutes, my companion
says, " I think we really must get out." It is needless to re
mark I lost no time in doing so, and bade good-bye to the road
: with great cheerfulness.
:The village of Slobosia presents a very desolate appearance. It
was, in the first place, knocked about a good deal by shells,
and since its inhabitants found that they would probably be
kept out of their houses all winter, they returned and took
away all beams, doors, &c, to build winter quarters else
where. The best preserved house is four bare walls, without
roof, door, or woodwork in the windows. The snow has com
pletely changed the appearance of the batteries. The line of
the parapet and embrasures are all so toned down that one
doesn't recognize them, and if it were not for the well-swept
paths and gun platforms, you might walk quite into a battery
before you knew of its existence.
Approaching from the other side, that is, the front, you see
what appears to be a gently sloping snow-covered hill. We
go straight through the battery, and on the crest of the para
pet, on the extreme right front, I am shown a little hole about
three feet deep. " My post. This is where I always sit when
important firing is going on," says the colonel. We are now
s 2

260 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in the centre of a line of sixty-four guns (sixteen
four guns each). The battery No. 7, at which we are, is the
most advanced one, those on the right and left bending
gradually back, following the turn of the Danube. The dis
tance from here to the nearest Turkish battery, which is in
Rustchuk itself, is 2,000 metres. It seems less, the mosques,
minarets, and big buildings standing out very clearly, though
the day is far from a bright one, and the sounds of <
barking and men shouting come plainly across the water.
I am told that sometimes they can hear the word of command
to fire in the Turkish battery opposite. Immediately below
the Hne of Russian batteries which occupy the high ground
is a shallow stream now frozen over, part of the Danube j
further towards Rustchuk is an island about five kilometres
long. This is covered with wood, always marshy, and in
floods inundated. Behind this comes the Danube proper, a
swift-running stream, 600 yards broad. The direction of the
river is from SW. to NE., with a bend at each side of the
town rather more to the north. This bend of the river affects'
both sides.
The Turkish Hne of defence being a curved one, with the con
cave side to their front, the curved line of the Enssians
presents the convex side to their enemy. On the Eustchuk
side the , ground rises suddenly from the water's edge, so the
Turkish batteries are for the most part close to the river. On
the south-west of the town the cliffs rise almost precipitously,
and on this high ground are two batteries of field artillery,
which have done the Turks good service. The Eussian offi
cers say that the straight shooting of these guns is marvellous,
and they are naturally curious to know who commands them,
With regard to the shooting of the Turkish artillery gene
rally, the difference on different days is very marked, some
times very wild, and on occasions very accurate. This
points to there being some very good officer who occasionally,!
directs.
The Russian shooting has been very good. They put up!
battery at Giurgevo to keep down the fire of the " Bouni
Battery," the extreme right battery of the Turkish position
which had been doing a good deal of harm in the town ol

THE RUSSIAN GUNS. 261
Giurgevo, and in one day dismounted its guns, and gave the
Turks so good an opinion of their skill that the Round
Battery has not again been occupied. The Turks also had a-
screened battery. A lucky Russian shell set the screen on
fire and burnt it down. This burning business is, after all,
a doubtful business, as the Turks fire away all the same from
the now opened battery. The Russian guns comprise 8-inch
howitzers, 6-inch steel position guns, and 6-inch bronze guns,
all breechloading. The howitzers are sighted by means of a
quadrant placed in the trunnion of the gun, which may be
old, but is new to me.
The way these guns are kept is beyond all praise ; and as the
colonel pats the enormous howitzer, and says it is the best
gun in the world, I wonder if he is right, or if the " powers
that be " who have decided on muzzleloaders for our army
know better. His opinion is one of great weight.. For four
years did he work at Birmingham, for two years in- America,
and in peace time he is the head of a steam-engine- and gun
factory in Siberia, and now a leader of men, and as good at
practice in war as at theories in peace time. The calibre of
the Turks' guns is smaller. For my part, however, I am not
convinced that they have no larger guns because they have
not fired them off, and it is quite possible that when Rust
chuk is invested the Russians may find 8-inch guns opposed
to them. It is only natural to suppose that if they have big
guns they would put them on the weakest side.
:The first battery we entered was a " sunk" battery of four
8-inch howitzers. The four guns are placed on platforms
about four feet below the general level of the ground, and
about twenty yards apart between each gun is left a solid
ridge of earth as a traverse ; beneath the traverses are shelters
or magazines. Around each traverse, and in all places where
men have to move, trenches are cut, about five feet deep, so
as to ensure as much as possible the safety of alh In front
and on the flanks of the line in which, the guns stand, and at
a distance of about twenty yards, is. a solid earthen parapet,
about twenty-four feet thick. Aim is taken by small pointed
sticks placed in the ground on the crest of the parapet. The
trench is continued beyond the outer gun of each battery,

262 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and on the side of the trench next the front are dug out httle
cabins, in which the garrison seems to spend a very happy
time of it. The only difference between the howitzer
batteries and the 6-inch gun ones is that the embrasures of
the latter are a little more cut away. There are always three
look-out men when firing is going on : one, with a telescope
on a tripod, to note the effect of the shots of his own
battery ; one to watch the jets of smoke from the battery
opposed to it, so as to give timely notice of the coming shell,
and the usual sentry.
The effect of these men really doing what they are set to do, and
the effect of keeping every man not on duty under cover, is that
the Russian losses have been wonderfully small — twenty-four
men killed. Three days ago a sentry gave notice that a
column of about 2,000 men and two guns were approaching
Rustchuk from the east by the Varna chaussee. A shell was
at once fired at them ; the whole column disappeared promptly
down the reverse slope of the road, which is here on an em-l
bankment. The captain of the battery got his guns pointed
at the spot where the embankment ceases, just before the
road enters the town, and, as the head of the column appeared,
off went a gun. The shell passed over the mark aimed at,
and struck a house, over which has been flying the red
crescent. The captain seized his glass, and what was his
surprise to see 200 armed soldiers issue from the supposed"
hospital. The house was battered down before night.
The firing generally consists of a duel between batteries, the .
Russians always beginning it. The Turks get through a
certain amount of rifle ammunition firing: across the river
at the sentries ; they also occasionally fire canister at the
soldiers sent to cut wood on the island. The firing is by no :
means of daily occurrence, and both sides evidently think it i
useless to play at war when in a short time probably, Rustchuk
will be in a state of siege and the real work will begin,
With regard to the probable siege one or two points are
evident. No single battery of the Russians on this side of
the Danube can in any case be moved nearer to Rustchuk
than it is at present. No assault can be made from this side
unless the Danube is frozen over ; and even then with 600

BOMBARDMENT OF RUSTCHUK. 263
yards of smooth ice to cross in front of a watchful enemy is
strongly against success. The Turks have had ample time
to make as many earthworks as they think necessary, and,
with the experience the Russians have lately had, they will
think twice before they throw away men's lives for little
advantages.
The Russians have a great idea of Turkish earthworks, and I
am quite convinced they do not rate them a bit too highly.
Last year I saw work thrown up by our own engineers at
Chatham under the most favourable conditions in peace, and
now I can show you work done by the Turk under fire which
will stand comparison with any of it. This all goes to show
that the tactics displayed in the latter days of Plevna will
be carried out here, and I venture to predict the history of
Eustchuk will be first, surrounded ; second, incessant shell-
fire and starvation ; third, surrendered. This all wants time,
but neither snow nor rain will ever quite stop the Russian
movements, though it may impede them. Their soldiers are
probably the best clad army in the world ; the usual com
plaints, the result of cold and exposure, seem to have no
effect on them ; and, taking the sick list here as an example,
they are healthier far than in the summer. In the heat, fever
accounted for 30 per cent, of the whole artillery corps ; now
sickness is unknown.
§ Giurgevo, January 3rd. — The bombardment commenced again
this morning, and is still steadily going on, each side firing
the same number of shots — waiting for each other in the most
courteous manner. It is not universal, but confined to the
central batteries of both sides. I visited one of the Russian
beacon posts this morning. The system of signals at night
by fire is perfect in its simplicity, almost impossible to go
wrong, and might be entrusted to the stupidest private in
any service: Not that this is the case here, for I find it in
charge of an officer, who not only seems to know his own
infantry work, but is equally well up in siege work, artillery
fire, fortification, and field movements. On aH these points
we had a chat, after he had pointed out what was to be seen
from the post. I had a good look at the Turkish line of
sentries through my glass, and came to the conclusion from

264 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
their movements that they are short of clothes. I watched
thirty of them that lined the curved river bank down stream
of Rustchuk, and every one of these men betrayed symptoms
of cold. I then looked at the Russian lines, and found the
. men walking about in their usual leisurely fashion. The
importance of this point cannot be overrated. One man
comes off his post fresh and well, ready to eat, go to sleep,
and be watchful again ; the other has to contend with a
regular drain of his constitution, and every fresh exposure
renders him less able to bear the next, till at last you hear
of a case such as was reported yesterday by a spy.
A Turkish outpost of eight men had been frozen to death.
The cold is most intense, and I find it actual pain to stand
still for more than a quarter of an hour, though clad in furs
and with porpoise-hide boots. The main channel of the river
here shows no signs of freezing over, and probably the Russian
commanders are glad of it, for, as soon as it is frozen, the
people here will probably be visited by small bands of Tnrks, '
who, after cutting as many persons' throats as possible, will
be off again on the appearance of the military. The force
here, though small, is a complete little army, composed of
infantry, cavalry, field artillery, and engineers. The out
posts and pickets are so arranged that it would be impossible
for any force which even knew their arrangement to get
through on the darkest night and attack the batteries.
War prices seem to be coming down. A Russian officer tells me
that a few days ago three officers had to pay twenty-three
napoleons for a sleigh from Simnitza here. It is somewhere
about a napoleon a mile, and the sum total probably three times
the worth of the sleigh, ponies, and harness. I have just made
a bargain, after an argument which has lasted two days, for
a sleigh to go to Simnitza for five napoleons.
§ Mimmicea, January 8th. — Since the breaking of the bridges
between Sistova and Simnitza communication across the
Danube has been kept up by pontoons rowed by sailors.
The river is full of large masses of floating ice, which
renders the service a dangerous one. Seventeen persons
were drowned in attempting the passage in a. private boat.

A DEADLOCK ON THE DANUBE. 265
The trip, formerly occupying a few minutes, now takes from
one to three hours. The pontoons are crowded with officers
on duty and deeply laden with money in boxes and sheepskin
coats. No other goods are taken. On the 6th and 8th the
fog interrupted this traffic, and it is likely to be often in
terrupted by the same cause. Only a hard frost, by freezing
the Danube over, can allow of the full passage of the
necessary stores.
Enormous quantities of provisions and clothing are stocked in
Simnitza. Carts daily arrive with more. Hay is not to be
bought. The draft cattle, fed alone on Indian corn, die in
great numbers, and the difficulties, always great, of trans
porting supplies from the railway at Fratesti and Giurgevo,
will be increased greatly by this alone. Either of the
foUowing causes will bring all transport to a standstill. A
thaw will render every road impassable, every small stream a
torrent, and the Danube for some time a still more dangerous
river, by detaching large masses of ice at present adhering to
its banks. Snow will block up the roads, and by making
each load harder to draw will give the draft cattle, at present
worked to death, a quicker release from their miserable life.
Hard frost, alone can be of service.
The question arises, if the war continues, whence are the ranks
daily thinning of ponies and bullocks to be filled ? AHeady
carts from aH the surrounding countries can be seen in
Simnitza. Bessarabia, Hungary, Wallacbia, and Moldavia
are represented by both man and beast. Carters unable to
fulfil their contracts of delivering their loads in Sistova, and
ruined by the war prices here, are daily running away,
leaving the contractors under whom they work losers by
reason of the large advances they have already made them.
In Bucharest may be seen sacks containing bread and biscuit,
sheepskin coats, made in Russia for the army, and sent away
from thence two months ago, which have not only not been
delivered, but it is not known where they are, so great is the
confusion. These goods have to be forwarded by the carts I
have alluded to as at Simnitza, or those now on the road
between Fratesti and that, place, or else by the new line of
¦ railway just constructed between these two places. With

266 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
regard to the railway, in two spots it is so exposed that the
slightest wind drifts the snow over the line and makes it im
passable. The engines are old, almost worn out, some of the
worst having leaky boilers, so that in the distance between
Fratesti and Bucharest (thirty-five miles) the engine has
often to leave the train on the line to go in search of water.
The passenger train that left Bucharest for Fratesti at
9.50 a.m. on the 7th took fifteen hours to arrive at the latter
place. The train that left Felingivo at 6 a.m. on the 8th
arrived at Bucharest at 10.30 a.m. on the 9th. TMs aptly
describes the railway communication.
A thaw has now set in. Most of the provisions alluded to are
in sacks or light boxes, in open cases or pUed in heaps on the
bran on the bare ground. Those that have been piled for
some time are covered with snow. The damage if the thaw
continues will be incalculable.
The new bridge at Simnitza, which up to the 7th had been
slowly going on, was stopped by the frost. The works will
now be resumed, but there is no chance of the bridge being
serviceable for several months. Communication across the
Danube at Petroshani and Nicopolis is conducted by boat.
The letters subjoined are from a naval correspondent, who,
as will be seen, was at Sebastopol when the Russia towed into
that port her prize, the Mercene, which had been captured in so
remarkable a manner in the Black Sea.
|| Sebastopol, December 20th. — Since October I have been
roaming about the Crimea, visiting friends, and anxiously
waiting for the arrival of the new cargo steamer that has
been prepared for my friend, Captain Baranoff (the Russia),
and in which he has most kindly offered me a cabin. As it
is now hourly expected here, I have returned to be in readi
ness to embark. Concerning our plans, of course I am in
ignorance,, nor should I feel justified in publishing them if
it were otherwise. When we have carried them out you may
be sure I will lose no time in sending you an account of
our cruise, and I sincerely hope it will not be an unfor-

SEBASTOPOL. 267
tunate one, for I am sure every Englishman must feel
rather inclined to admire the plucky manner in which the
ridiculous Black Sea " fleet :: of Russia has bearded the
Moslem's powerful navy.
Whereabouts the ironclads are, or what they are doing, of course
I do not know, but I can inform you that the Constantine,
the Vesta, and the Vladimir, have been for the last two
months steaming about the Black Sea on whatever business
they are engaged in, without apparently troubling themselves
as to whether there is a blockade or not. About six weeks
ago an ironclad and a corvette made their appearance, and
endeavoured to capture another salt barge off Eupatoria.
The proprietor managed, however, to sink it before they
could get hold of it, and the Turks ran away after getting a
shot or two from the shore.
If the Turkish navy were not more or less under the influence
of Admiral Hobart Pacha, I should say it deserves a great
deal of credit for not having bombarded villages, villas, &c,
on the Russian coast. As, however, such work could have
gained it nothing, it has wisely abstained from doing so. In
the beginning of the war the Sultan was apparently deluded
by some wag at Constantinople to publish an invitation to
the Crimean Tartars, " groaning " under Russian tyranny, to
revolt. The Crimean Tartars, who are the happiest set of
lazy rascals, perhaps, under the sun, responded by offering
up prayers to Allah in their mosques for the success of the
Russian army ; and I have not the slightest hesitation in
saying that unless the Sultan of all the Ottomans can send
at least 100,000 troops to the Crimea, the hoisting of the
green banner of the Prophet will affect the Crimean Tartars
about as much as it will me.
We have had, and are still having,, the most lovely weather ;
the sun was so hot to-day that I had, almost in self-defence,
to wear my Indian solar topee. I have passed many winters
here, but this is certainly the finest. There has not been a
vestige of frost as yet, but perhaps we shall have to pay for
it in January and February. At Aloupha Castle, the seat of
Prince Woronzow, where I was on a visit about ten days
ago, we had raspberries and strawberries frequently at dessert,

268 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and his gardener expects even to have them for Christmas.
These are not in any way forced, but grow in the kitchen-
gardens as ours do. So warm has been this winter that on
the south coast, when I left, even Russian ladies were still
enjoying sea-bathing. Greek schooners constantly arrive
with lemons, for which we are grateful, but not to the extent
of granting them cargoes of grain. Consequently ten or a
dozen of them are at anchor here disconsolate. The build
ings I spoke of in my last are finished, and I hear crammed
with grain. The oyster fishery, owing to there being only
chance occasions for sending to Odessa, is at a discount.
Excellent oysters are now to be bought for twenty kopecks
a hundred. As the rouble is now worth two shillings, and
there are 100 kopecks in the rouble, I fancy we have a slight
advantage over the London market in the purchase of this
luxury.
|| On Board SS. "Russia," Sebastopol, December 29th. — On
Wednesday, at about 9 a.m., all Sebastopol was assembled
at the Graffskoia landing-place to again welcome the hero of
the Vesta, who, in command of his new steamer, was signalled
as approaching. In rear of the Russia, at a distance of
about half a mile, a strange three-masted screw steamer
was observed, apparently of about 800 or 1,000 tons. That
it was a prize we had little doubt, though it was not till she
was passing within almost a hundred yards of me that I
distinguished two very small flags, indicating by their posi
tion that success had again foUowed the career of Captain
Baranoff.
The landing and reception of this favourite of fortune were
thoroughly Russian. As soon as I could manage to shake
hands with him he told me my cabin was ready, and that he
purposed leaving in a few hours. Accordingly I hurried to
my quarters to pack up and write you a few lines, and later
on I sent you a telegram. I have now little more to say
about the capture. The Russia left Odessa on the 22nd inst.,
and the following day, when off Penderekli, she encountered
the Meraene, carrying 793 soldiers and Bashi-Bazouks, twenty
officers, including a lieutenant of the Sultan's yacht Iezedin,

CAPTURE OF THE MERCENE. 269
and a few women and children, making a total with the crew
of 897.
It appears that the Meraene mistook the character of the
Russia, and thinking she would prove an easy capture for
the troops, allowed her to approach and get between them
and the coast, which was about five miles off. When too
late she discovered that she had made a mistake, and at the
third shot she hauled down her flag. Captain Baranoff,
having put an officer and twenty-six men on board, and
removed the Turkish officers to the Russia, at once made
for this port, where she arrived with the prize as I have
described.
To return to the movements of the Russia. The captain
purposed leaving at once for Odessa with the prisoners, but
in the afternoon a storm that had been gradually brewing
all day burst on us, and by midnight, even in this landlocked
harbour, the motion of the steamer might have deranged
the digestion of landsmen. At daybreak yesterday, the gale
having abated, we put to sea, but had not got a dozen miles
from shore when the captain told me he should put back,
as the roll further on was too heavy for him to risk. Accord
ingly we returned to our moorings and landed the prisoners
here. The colonel of the troops and his two servants were
despatched by rail to Simpheropol. The colonel, who dined,
&c, with the captain, had a melancholy expression of coun
tenance, but I observed his appetite was healthy and his
religious scruples concerning liquids by no means severe.
His officers, who messed in the wardroom, were also not
bigoted in this respect. To judge from the empty bottles
on the table, I think most of them approved of the sherbet
of the infidel.
About one o'clock yesterday the commander-in-chief, his
Highness the Prince Woronzow, paid us a visit, and after
lunch we all proceeded to visit the prize, which is lying at
the Custom House wharf. The Meraene was formerly the
Sherriff, and was a passenger and cargo steamer between
Constantinople and Batoum, taken for this occasion by the
Government as a transport. She is a strongly-built and
handsomely-fitted screw steamer of 1,400 tons, worth, I

270 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
should say, from twenty to twenty-five thousand pounds
sterling. I cannot say she was clean; but 793 Turkish
soldiers and Bashi-Bazouks are not the most cleanly cargo,
and from what I saw of the prisoners, I think, if I was
forced to take a trip either with them or with a cargo
of slaves from the African coast, I should cast my lot in
with my black brethren. The weather has cleared, and we
start, I believe, to-night, destination of course unknown. I
will send you particulars of our cruise directly we return,
which I fancy will be in a week or ten days.
SS. " Russia," December 30th, 7 p.m., on the Black Sea.—
Circumstances over which we had no control prevented our
leaving Sebastopol yesterday as we had intended ; but this
afternoon, about 2 p.m., we steamed out of harbour, and are
now about sixty imles on our way to Odessa. The gale has
gone down, but has left a long sweU, calculated to seal up
the ship-boy's eyes and rack his brains. We have just
finished dinner, and the captain has adjourned to the bridge,
to pass, I should say, anything but an agreeable night, for
irrespective of a cold north-easter, with sleet blowing right
in our teeth, we know of five ironclads which are supposed
to have left Sulina in search of us. My friend, with his
usual generosity, invited me to keep watch with him, sug
gesting that I ought to be able to describe any affair from
the commencement. I changed the conversation, but not my
intentions, which were on no account to quit my present
snug quarters till the shooting began, or at any rate till there
was something more worth seeing than outer darkness, which
at the present moment is the aspect of the Euxine. There
are also other inducements to remain. The captain's cigars
are excellent, and the sofa all that one can desire. An in-
diarubber ball at my side on being pressed produces a tele
phone squeak in the buffet, which brings my young friend
Terracinta (of Vesta notoriety) to supply my wants, and a
bright fire in the stove, together with other comforts, would
render desertion wicked on my part ; so I purpose remaining
where I am. A sailor who has just come in tells me it is
only a squall, so with a pious hope that if Hobart is looking

THE PRISONERS FROM THE MBRCENE. 271
after us he is enjoying the weather as much as my friend, I
shall smoke another cigar and turn in.
Odessa, December 31st, 2 p.m. — After twenty-four hours of bad
weather, we have arrived without encountering the Moslem.
I will add a line or two every day to say what we are doing.
At present we are (the captain and self) going on shore.
Odessa, January 1st. — The Russia is coaHng.
Odessa, January 2nd. — Captain Baranoff has gone by land to
Nicolaieff. The steamer is still coaling.
Odessa, January 4th. — Captain Baranoff has returned, and I
hope we shall get off to-morrow. The difference in the
reports concerning the numbers of prisoners arises from the
fact that the gallant corps increased its officers after capitu
lating, their first idea being that the private soldiers would
only be hanged or shot, while the officers would be reserved
for fleying, impaling, roasting, and other well-authenticated
Russian modes of showing consideration to captives. The
rank and file predominated considerably, but after a few days,
it being discovered that the officers were not only alive but
getting fat, there was great promotion from the ranks, and
when I last heard the list of officers they were increasing
not only in numbers but in rank, it having come to their
knowledge that Bimbashis got more than other bashis, &c.
By this time I dare say there are Pachas and Ghazis ; hence
the discrepancies. The numbers in my letter of the 29th
being taken from the latest census before we handed the
prisoners over to the Crown authorities, are probably the
most correct. No prisoners came here with us, nor did the
Russia leave Sebastopol for the expedition. The capture
was made between Penderekli and the- Bosphorus, at about
five miles from the shore. If your readers will look out
Penderekli on the map they will perhaps be astonished at
the audacity of the proceeding. They need not look far
from the mouth of the Bosphorus.
Odessa, January 5th. — We leave at two this afternoon. You
may expect to hear either of me or from me in a week or

272 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
ten days at latest. I forgot to mention that on board the
prize were mail bags, which were forwarded unopened to St.
Petersburg. The colonel of the troops, of whom I spoke in
my last, was robbed by his own men in the hurry of dis
embarking from the prize. Some of his property was dis
covered on the person of one of the soldiers, but I cannot
say whether it was a Turk, Circassian, or Bashi-Bazonk.
The colonel was much impressed with Baranoff's kindness.
When I said good-bye to him he showed me a heavy silver
cigar-case that the captain had given him as a souvenir, and
said, " Commandant dobra, dobra," which means " good "
in Russ. He had substantial reasons besides the souvenir
for saying so.
|| Sebastopol (on board the " Russia "), January 6tL — We
arrived here this morning from Odessa, having had a cold
but interesting run across. Odessa harbour began to freeze
on the 4th inst., and I fancy, from the difficulty we had to
break out, that for the next month or six weeks that in.
teresting commercial town is secure from any attack of
ironclads. We got clear of the ice about 4 p.m., and made
direct for Sebastopol, all going on well till about 2 a.m., when
we suddenly discovered that we were not alone on the face
of the waters.
Lights, evidently signals, flashed at a short distance from one
another, and warned us that Islam was proving her supre
macy on the Euxine. It was aggravating, as we had made
plans for to-day (which is our Christmas), but as there were
certainly three if not more ironclads between' us and Sebas
topol, those plans began to look doubtful. Nicolaieff and
Odessa, it must be remembered, were closed to us by the
ice, Kertch also, so there seemed to be nothing to do but
steam about the Black Sea till the war or our^coal was
finished. Captain Baranoff, however, had made up his
mind to be at Sebastopol to-day, and soon arranged his
plans. Finding that the lights were proceeding in a
southerly direction, the Turks having, as they thought,
satisfactorily explored the north, he accompanied them in
a parallel line till they were well clear of the Taganhyt

SUPINENESS OF THE TURKISH NAVY. 273
Lighthouse, when, favoured by the darkness of the night, he
slipped round their stern, and got into Sebastopol only two
hours later than he had intended. I did not myself witness
the best part of this fun, having turned in about half-
past twelve, and, as we keep profound silence on board,
I might have known nothing of it till morning if I had not,
about 3 a.m., looked at my pocket-compass, when, to my
intense astonishment, I found we were steering north, instead
of south by east. I was on deck at once, and though the
lights were then out of sight we still had plenty of excite
ment in the sixty miles' run from Taganhyt to this port.
We confidently expected that there would be at least one
ironclad cruising outside to attack us, in case we ran the
blockade. Of course we none of us expect that this can
always go on. The Turks are certainly the most imbecile
naval power that the world has ever seen, but one or other
of our corsairs, I suppose, will come to grief if the war con
tinues.
It seems incredible that unarmonred merchant steamers
should, with perfect impunity (except in the case of the
Vesta's fight, when she suffered for her audacity), run
into Turkish harbours, blow their torpedoes up under the
ironclads, carry off even a transport with five times their
force on board, and cruise about within a few miles of the
Bosphorus, not to mention the supreme contempt that they
have shown throughout the year to Turkey's claim to naval
supremacy. All this seems and reads like romance, but it is
nevertheless an historical fact for the year 1877, and if the
Turk sinks all four of us in 1878 it will never entitle him to
hold up his head as a maritime Power. The Black Sea
" fleet," the Vesta, the Constantine, the Vladimir, and the
Russia, are at present all safe in this harbour. The yacht
Swadia is at Odessa.

VOL. II.

274 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

CHAPTER X.
THE PASSAGE OF THE ETROPOL BALKANS.
Reinforcements for General Gourko's Army. — Misery of the Turkish Soldiers.—
Defective Arrangements of the Russians. — The Battle-field of the Vid. —
Forlorn Condition of Bulgarian Towns and Villages. — A Goat-path in the
Mountains. — Deep Snow and Severe Temperature. — Valuable Services of
the Red Cross Society. — Heroism and Devotion of the Surgeons and
Students. — Forward Movement. — Great Number of Sick and Wounded. —
Prevalence of Frost-bite. — Superiority of the Turkish System. — Miseries
of Life in Orkanieh. — Plan of the Advance. — Amount and Distribution of
the Forces. — General Gourko and his Staff. — A Neglected Bridle-path.—
General Rauch and his Men. — General Maglovsky. — A Snowstorm.— The
Village of Curiak. — The Kuban Cossacks. — Capture of a Transport Train.—
Wilhelminoff's Column. — The Balkans Crossed. — The Kuban and the
Foundling. — Incidents of the Campaign. — Failure of Donderville's Enter
prise. — Attack on the Turkish Positions at Taskose. — General Mirfeoviteh
Wounded. — Valour of the Turks. — Capture of Taskose. — Baker Pacha's
Despatch. — An Exciting Chase. — Fight at Gorny Bagaroff.— Cost of the
Passage of the Balkans.
The fall of Plevna, involving both the capture of the most
able of the Turkish commanders, with his army, and the release
of the army of investment from its long and arduous duty,
was promptly followed by tokens of a determination to prose
cute with vigour the advance across the Balkans. General
Gourko's progress had been arrested, partly by the inclemency
of the weather and partly by the insufficiency of his force,
originally amounting to about 30,000 men ; but he had at least
succeeded in removing all cause for apprehension from the
threatened advance of Mehemet Ali, or his successor, Chakir
Pacha; and much more than this the Russian commanders
could hardly have contemplated in the circumstances in which
his bold enterprise was undertaken. Owing to heavy storms

AFFAIRS AT ORKANIEH. 275
delay took place in the departure of reinforcements for General
Gourko's army ; but it will be seen that the difficulties of the
movement were eventually surmounted.
The letters foHowing are from the correspondent who had
lately left the headquarters of General Gourko for a hasty visit
to Plevna, as already mentioned : —
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Orkanieh, in the Bal
kans, December 24th. — The snow was lying two or three inches
deep, and was still falling fast, as I jostled and fought my
way along the crowded Sofia road a few days ago between
Plevna and the Vid — a discouraging start off for a long and
tedious journey into the heart of the Balkans. Plevna offered
enough interest, and more than enough excitement, but
several days before on the trip down from the Balkans I had
met the reinforcements marching to join the army of General
Gourko, and, as nothing except lack of numbers had delayed
his advance, the probabilities of a speedy southward move
ment were too strong, and the prospect too tempting, to
permit longer delay at such a distance from the actual
front.
From the town limits to the bridge the road was lined with
boxes of Turkish ammunition, shells, and broken caissons ;
and muskets were piled up in one place like corded wood in
a forest. The empty transport waggons coming in, and the
heavily loaded ones slowly moving out, completely filled all
the spaces between the ditches, so that progress was very slow,
and only possible at all with a good amount of crowding and
Some hard words. The heavily-falling snow completely veiled
the landscape, and after an hour's ride at a snail's pace
I crossed the Vid, and had the great snow-carpeted plain
before me, and undisputed passage southward. A sickening
and indescribable odour came from the direction of the battle
field. I had seen many hundreds of unburied bodies there
the day before, so I did not suspect any other source of the
poisoned air until there became visible through the storm a
long line of men, extending as far as could be seen through
the flying snow. It was evident from this multitude of human
t 2

276 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
beings, the army of Osman Pacha, filthy and without means
of washing, huddled together like sheep in the snow, which,
falling moist, drenched them like rain, half fed, with.
out fires, or any comforts or necessaries, or even the most
common privileges which the law of health and general
sanitary precautions require — it was evident, I say, that from
this mass of living uncleanliness came the overpowering
stench that testified to the horrible condition of the prisoners,
and their unparalleled wretchedness and misery.
Nearly 40,000 men were standing there in the driving storm,
herded in great companies of several hundreds. They were
wrangling and fighting among themselves for the scanty
rations that were furnished them — scanty, because there was
none too great a supply for the soldiers who guarded them.
They huddled together and hugged tight about their bodies
the thin ragged coats in the vain attempt to keep warm and
dry, and as fast as the snow fell trod it into the ground with
the constant motion of their feet. It seemed impossible that
human beings could live under such conditions. How had
they slept in the cold rain of the past week ? How would
they manage to live through the coming week with the snow
a foot deep all around them, and cold which makes sleep a
stranger to the thickly-clad Russian soldier in his straw
shelter in the bivouac ? I must confess that I wasn't too
comfortable in the saddle, with the snow melting down the
back of my neck and settling on my arms and shoulders ; but
the sight of these wretched creatures cut short any incipient
thought to find fault with the weather, and I turned my
horse's head towards the south, with the helpless feeling that
was almost a torture in the presence of all the suffering in
Plevna still strong within me, and found myself repeating
the same phrase that on every occasion serves as an excuse
and an apology for all the inconvenience and distress that so
frequently result from the want of system in the Eussian
army : " What is to be done ? "
The officer, whose duty it is to see that the marching column
starts in season in the morning to arrive at the bivouac before
night, finds himself and his men struggling along the muddy
road in murky darkness, and with an air and a shrug that con-

REINFORCEMENTS FOR GENERAL GOURKO. ' 277
fess the inexcusable want of forethought, and at the same time give
not the least assurance of improvement in the future, exclaims
in a resigned tone, " What is to be done ? " A detachment finds
itself away from its supplies at a time when a little energy
and forethought would have prevented any such occurrence.
Officers and men suffer from want of food, and take it with
a fatalistic resignation that is without a hint or promise of
improvement. I have found a large company of officers in
the mountains, having prepared for the trip a day or two
before. They had brought nothing for their" horses, no salt,
no matches, and nothing to cut wood with. All this may
seem trivial ; but it is an indication of just the way affairs in
general are conducted.
The history of Plevna for the first two weeks after its capture
would be composed of chapters of horrors that have few
parallels in modern times. I believe that there is little
attempt to excuse the neglect, the criminal neglect, to pro
perly provide for the prisoners ; but any excuse — however
well founded in the difficulties of transport, in the inclemency
of the weather, and in the unexpected surrender of the army
of Osman Pacha — can have no weight whatever in the
balance against the sum total of the human suffering and
the loss of life that was the result of the characteristic
Eussian laisser aller.
I arrived in Plevna only four or five days after the surrender,
and the living and the dead were still lying side by side. The
battle-field by the Vid presented a most ghastly spectacle, and
I will not say that there were many, but I am sure there were
some, wounded lying there uncared for, but still alive. The
great herd of prisoners without tents, or even the miserable
shelter of the holes in the ground which they had occupied
during the siege, stood there in the rain, and were moved
daily from place to place, as the spot where they remained a
few hours became too filthy to endure. When I passed them
on the morning of the snowstorm their condition was in no
degree improved. Up to four days after the battle part of
them had received no rations, and when I went among them
they were fighting like madmen for the morsels of bread.
They died by scores — for how can human nature endure so

278 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
much ? — and the night after I left them in the snow over
300 perished miserably, from exposure and hunger combined,
These are the meagre facts, the few that came under my
notice in a hasty visit, besides the detads I have already trans
mitted by telegraph. The tale has not been half told, nor yet
half begun, and I feel that very little justice has been done
to the situation at Plevna, but the story of the victors is far
more agreeable to relate, although that also has a side that is
by no means attractive.
All along the Sofia road at frequent intervals are villages of
perhaps 200 houses, and even more, which are deserted by
the great majority of their inhabitants, the Turkish peasants
having fled from the approach of the Russians, and the
Bulgarians having dispersed either for fear of the Turks, or
having been compelled to follow the train of the fugitives.
Many of these villages were very rich in grain, hay, and
straw, and the first troops that passed this way had not the
slightest difficulty in finding forage and bread. The whole
region abounds in trees which would have furnished fires for
the army for months, but it was so much easier to pull a
beam out of a house than to cut down a tree, that the
soldiers when they wanted wood simply tore down the houses:
and burned the timbers. I have, I believe, already described
how the houses fall down wherever the army halts. Some
very serious accidents have already occurred from this
thoughtless improvident habit of tearing the timbers out of
the houses, and that is not the worst result of the destruction,
as the reinforcements just arrived to this army have found
out to their cost.
In Dolny Dubnik scarcely one stone is left above another.
With the exception of a very few houses the entire village is
flat, burned piecemeal by the soldiers. Teliche has suffered
in much the same way, but perhaps half the houses are still
standing, Radomirce, Lukovitza, Petreven, Jablonica, and
Osikovo — everywhere the same story. The straw stacks
have been pulled down and scattered wastefully over the road
and in the courtyards ; the Indian corn has been taken from
the bins, and fed out to the animals in such abundance that
half of it lies rotting on the ground where it was throvflKj

THE JOURNEY FROM PLEVNA. 279
When I first came up the Sofia road my horses stood at night
knee-deep in unthrashed barley straw, where the Cossacks
had picketed their horses in the courtyards of the Turkish
houses, and Indian corn in the ear paved the ground all
about the bins. There were, too, plenty of good, clean, com
fortable quarters in every village. On my way back from
Plevna this time I found the greatest difficulty in obtaining
even straw for the horses to eat. The troops I passed on the
road bivouacked in the snow between the walls which a few
weeks ago supported warm, tight roofs, and they had to thank
those who had passed over the road before them for the waste
of forage, destruction of the houses, and general exhaustion
of the resources of the country, which, if they had been
managed with anything like a provident system, would have
served to supply the passing troops and the transport trains
for months.
For my own part, the only way I avoided sleeping in the snow
was by hurrying on past the troops I overtook on the road,
reaching the village of Lukovitza, where they were to pass
the night, only a few moments before the advance guard, and
establishing myself and horses in a cellar just large enough
for us. I had scarcely put a billet of wood across the door
when the place was besieged by officers and men, who kept
up at intervals all night long a tattoo on the door, accom
panied with demands for admission, which, of course, I did
not grant, for every inch of room was taken. They had
marched the fifty-five versts from Plevna in two days,
bivouacking the first night at Teliche. The snow fell all
night long, and those who found no roof to shelter them
wandered about until morning, trying to find a hole to crawl
into to sleep. A month ago the village would have furnished
comfortable quarters for the whole detachment, now it would
barely shelter a battalion.
At daybreak I was on the road again, and the storm had
not yet ceased, but was somewhat diminished in violence ;
the highway was almost knee-deep with mingled mud and
snow. Turkish families, stowed away in their miserable
arabas, were shivering by the roadside, where the ex
hausted oxen had stopped during the night. Bulgarians,

280 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
also on their way from Plevna to their villages, advanced
along the road in painful procession, toiling through the mud
laden with great bundles of kitchen utensils and bedding,
and scarcely moving half a mile ah- hour. How and where
they had passed the night was a question which I did not
stop to ask, because, knowing that I should arrive at the
Pravca Pass only at the end of the day, for it was forty versts
distant, the question of the coming night was to me a far
more important and interesting one.
The whole day without a pause, except to water the horses, I
pushed on past artillery, supply waggons, transport carts with
wounded in almost inextricable confusion, and at dark came
to the narrow defile of the Pravca Pass, and the road was so
jammed with troops and artillery that it was impossible to
proceed further, and it seemed as if I was nailed there for the
night in the storm, with no village within two hours' ride,
and even there every house overcrowded with soldiers. The
only alternative to passing the night in the snow was to pnsh
on over the mountains by the goat-paths that had served at
the time of the battle there to move small detachments of
troops towards the flanks of the enemy. There was no httle
risk of losing my way in the storm, but remembering dis
tinctly the conformation of the ground, I struck out through
the woods to the left of the road, and after a couple of hours'
hard work through the snow, climbing over the crags which,
in fine weather, were difficult enough to scale, I came out
into the plain of Orkanieh, and my tired horses made their
own way along to their stable.
The snow was then eighteen inches deep on a level, and since
that time several inches more have fallen. For the last week
the cold has been steadily increasing, and to-day as I write
the Reaumur thermometer marks seventeen degrees of cold.
There is no means of heating the room except by a fire under
a stone canopy, which has so fallen to pieces and gone to ruin
that the smoke comes out into the room and does not find its
way up the chimney. But even warm smoke would be pre
ferable to the cold which freezes the ink on my table as I am
writing, and the only reason why I don't indulge in that
luxury is because it is impossible to find wood to burn. The

THE SOCIETY OF THE RED CROSS. 281
Bulgarian sledges are all employed in bringing wood for the
ovens and kitchens. The hedges and wicker fences have all
been burned long ago. Very many houses were torn to pieces
when the army first came here, and now a handful of wood
is worth its weight in silver almost, and quite impossible to
get at all in any quantity. The sufferings of the soldiers in
the bivouacs on the mountains are simply terrible.
Hundreds have their feet and hands frozen every night, and
the amount of illness resulting from exposure is alarming.
Very few of the men are provided with any clothing in
addition to that which they brought with them for the full
campaign. They have good boots and whole overcoats, it is
true, but many of them discard the former, and substitute
sandals and leggings of raw hide, and a single thickness of
coarse cloth is a miserable protection in this cold.
It is just at this season that the Society of the Red Cross is of
the greatest possible service. There is an independent section
of this society attached to the corps of the Guard, under the
protection, and bearing the name, of the Princess Imperial.
It is the only independent section of the society in the field,
I believe, and it is this detachment alone which has made its
way to the very front, and established its hospitals there.
When General Gourko made the move to cut off the commu
nications of Plevna, it was forbidden by general orders to
take along any ambulances or transports, because, in case of
a forced retreat, they would block the narrow country roads
by which the advance was made, and impede the movements
of the troops. With great difficulty the Red Cross detach
ment obtained permission to accompany the troops, on the
condition that, if a retrograde movement were made, they
would burn without the least hesitation the light waggons
they took along, and leave the road free.
The battle of Gorny Dubnik resulted, as is well known, in the
defeat of the Turks, with great loss for the Russians, and
the number of surgeons attached to the regiments was not
only quite insufficient to attend to the number of wounded
that came to the rear, but there was a scarcity of necessary
articles for use in the ambulances. The Red Cross estab
lished itself just across the Vid, in a deserted Cossack

282 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
, bivouac, where there were still standing the huts that had
sheltered 400 Cossacks, and at this point, four or five versts
away from the battle-field, assembled the great mass of the
wounded who could walk, and very many who had to be
carried. The waggons of the Red Cross had everything
needed for the dressing of the wounds ; a half-dozen doctors
were there to receive and care for the wounded ; a kitchen
was set up, and hot tea and soup was served out to the
soldiers as fast as possible. When the sun rose in the
morning, over 2,000 wounded lay in the bivouac, Before
night the number was nearly doubled, and for four days this
little detachment of the society provided food for the great
mass of wounded until the division ambulances and transports
came up. Tea and warm food were served out twice a day,
with spirits and wine, and by the time the transports came
up for the wounded, nearly every article in the stores was
used up.
Later, the same detachment, having replenished its exhausted
stock of supplies, opened a hospital in Dolny Dubnik,
where twenty or thirty beds were set up in a deserted
house. When the movement towards the Balkans was made,
there was again considerable difficulty in getting permission
to follow the army, and only a limited number of waggons
came along. The medical students were given the choice of
, staying behind or going on foot, and they unanimously chose
the latter course, and every one of them marched the whole
distance to Orkanieh. Two of the doctors of the detachment
accompanied General Rauch on his trip over the mountains to
the rear of the Pravca Pass, marched thirty-two hours with
the infantry, and then dressed the wounds of the soldiers
under a hot rifle-fire.
The devotion of the doctors and students, indeed of every one
connected with the detachment, is so heroic, that one cannot
do less than place them in the same rank with those who
perform the actual deeds of valour in the face of the enemy.
I have found the doctors and students encamped in the snow
on the mountains, where the bullets dropped about, and the-
shells came whizzing in — everywhere, in fact, where there
is any probability of an engagement, and consequent need

THE NOURISHMENT OF THE WOUNDED. 283
of their service, they are sure to be on hand. Here, in
Orkanieh, where not a single article of warm clothing for
the troops has arrived by the military transports, the Red
Cross detachment of the Princess Imperial has given out
many hundreds of pairs of warm socks to the sick and the
well as they were needed; over 600 Jerseys, upwards of
100 fur pelisses, 500 caps, double the number of flannel
waistbands, the larger part cut and sewed by the Sisters of
Charity here, and felt boots, and slippers, and the like, in
great abundance. The waggons containing these stores
arrived before the roads were blocked, and now there is
on the way a large transport laden with similar articles of
clothing, of which the officers and the soldiers alike are in
the greatest need.
With the thermometer down to zero, it may well be ima
gined that the things distributed by the detachment have
been received as if they had fallen from heaven. The Red
Cross hospital, although designed for thirty beds, contains
now 120, and, considering the means at hand, it is a marvel of
comfort and cleanliness. As long ago as when the same detach
ment opened a hospital at Bogot, it established its reputation
for unexampled care of the wounded, and the Emperor
visited the tents on more than one occasion, and presented
the Sisters with souvenirs of his visits. Here it is a great
piece of good fortune for a wounded man to fall into the
hands of the Red Cross, and occupy a bed in the light warm
rooms of the hospital, and the number of applications for
admission are quadruple the number of beds.
Not the least service this detachment renders is the nourish
ment of the wounded during the trip from here to the main
hospitals. I have before alluded to the sufferings of the
wounded men in the transports for the lack of food. It
is just this want that the detachment proposes to supply.
A number of food stations have been established between
here and Plevna, and every transport train of wounded that
passes will receive liberal quantities of warm food, the dele
gates of the society comprehending perfectly that first of all a
wounded man requires proper nourishment. The distribution
of food among the soldiers here I have not referred to par-

284 WAR CORRESPONDENCE-
ticularly, because this would be understood to be one of the
general objects of the society. Immense quantities of tea,
sugar, spirits, and canned provisions, have been distributed.
Among the stores I noticed a number of cases from Mr.
Lloyd, in the name of the British Society for the Aid' of
Sick and Wounded in War. Considering the difficulties of
transport, the impossibiHty of foreseeing anything like the
present condition of the army in the Balkans, or of ade
quately preparing for such a campaign, the aid afforded by
this Red Cross detachment of the Princess Imperial is beyond
all value. Such enthusiastic energy and intensity of purpose
should not go unrecorded.
A few details on the composition of the detachment may not be
uninteresting. It now consists of the original section of the
Red Cross Society, as I have said above, under the protection
of the Princess Imperial, with the three " flying ambulances,"
so called, sent out by the Empress. It was the doctors of
these flying ambulances I referred to as accompanying
General Rauch. The hospital department is provided
nominally with means for fifty beds, but really furnishes •
three times the number. With the two doctors attached to
this section, the whole number of surgeons is increased to
eight. There are two delegates who superintend the estab-
lishment of the hospitals, the distribution of the stores, and
the management of the transport ; eighteen students of
medicine, who assist in operations and act as chief nurses ;
forty male nurses, three Sisters of Charity, apothecary,
laundress, cook, drivers, and servants. Ten waggons carry
the baggage and tents, and the doctors and some of the
students are now mounted. The detachment receives
40,000 francs a month for expenses, and about half
of this sum goes for salaries and wages. Altogether
it is the most effective section of the Red Cross Society I
have yet seen in Bulgaria, doubtless partly because it has
been allowed to reach its helping hand just to the point where
assistance is most required ; but its effectiveness is due more
than anything else to the tireless energy and devotion of the
individual members of the little detachment.

gourko's forward movement. 285
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Curiae, near Sofia,
December 29th. — Early on Christmas morning began the long-
deferred forward movement across the great Balkans into
the valley of Sofia. The plan of the advance had been long
matured, every detail most carefully studied, the ground
laid out with mathematical exactness, and only the lack of
troops prevented the earlier accomplishment of the move
ment. First, the delay at Imperial headquarters to issue
orders for the march of the reinforcements intended for
General Gourko ; second, the severe storm and the bad state
of the roads, have retarded the arrival of the additional
troops until the very day before the advance was made.
It has been evident for some time that General Gourko would
either have to retire from the positions he had taken on the
mountains near the Baba Konak Pass, or else cross the range
at any cost, for the severity of the weather made it almost im
possible to bring up the supplies and ammunition, and life in
the bivouacs on the mountain became daily more and more
difficult. Scarcely a night passed but frozen hands and feet
were counted by hundreds. Thirty soldiers were frozen to
death during four days of the storm, and the number of sick
from exposure amounted to more than 2,000. Before the
snowstorm the mountain paths were rivers of mud, and
when these froze solid they became quite impassable, and
steps had to be cut with axes. The thin shelter tents, torn
by the wind, and with difficulty kept fastened to the ground
in the gales, were exchanged for rude huts covered with
turf and logs, and holes dug in the steep banks among the
trees. The transports containing warm clothing, which had
been long talked of as on the road somewhere between Sistova
and Orkanieh, were not even expected to arrive for weeks, and
the soldiers make use of the skins of the bullocks and sheep
to wrap their feet in and to make jackets of, but with such
meagre resources there is little enough alleviation of the
suffering from the cold ; and men in the trenches along the
watershed are constantly exposed not only to the bullets of
the enemy near at hand, but to the insidious attacks of the
frost, which too often proves a much more dreaded foe.
Doubtless the Turks suffer in an untold degree, but they have

286 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
much more skill than the Russians, not only in constructing
earthworks, but in budding shelters, and often the miserably-
clad infantryman behind the breastworks will be found
stowed away in comfortable little huts of logs and straw,
where a small fire keeps several soldiers warm, and for the
time he remains there he makes these huts his home, and
defends them as such. The Russian infantryman, on the
contrary, rarely considers himself at home in the trenches,
because he remains but a few days, and then is relieved and
sent elsewhere. This constant rotation adds greatly to the
comfort of the soldiers, but for actual service in earthworks
is a mistake, for the soldier who lives for weeks in a breast
work learns every foot of the ground in front, and when the
time comes wdl advance with confidence or defend his hut
with desperation. The trenches at Plevna illustrated per
fectly the difference between the Turk and the Russian in
this respect. So here in the Balkans, while the Russians
endure every discomfort on the mountain tops, I doubt not
that the enemy under the same conditions is comparatively
comfortable. The severe cold was not only unexpected, but
is quite unseasonable, and when the reinforcements arrived
they found themselves obHged to bivouac in the snow
because every foot in the town of Orkanieh was already
occupied.
The scenes in Orkanieh during the storm and cold surpass de
scription. Generals quartered in tireless rooms and in mud
houses, and soldiers sheltered behind piles of snow, or
clustered in groups about small fires, were patiently waiting
day after day. Officers came in at all hours of the day and
night, many on foot from Osikovo, unable to pass on horse
back because the road was blocked by cannon, exhausted,
half frozen, seeking shelter which money could not buy,
Salt failed, and bread became scarce. I have seen an officer
give 15 francs for a small loaf. Wood was a luxury which
few could obtain in any abundance, for, although there are
forests in every direction, all the empty carts were used
in bringing wood for the hospitals and ovens, and there
were many cases of frozen feet and hands in the town
itself.

DISTRIBUTION OF THE TROOPS. 287
The plan of the projected advance, as indeed the whole order
of the campaign thus far, is mainly due, I believe, to the
chief of General Gourko's staff, General Naglovsky. The
plan was as precise as a mathematical problem, and the
work was laid out as explicitly for each detachment. The
physical difficulties of crossing the high range that separates
the valleys of Orkanieh and Sofia, in fact, the great Balkan
range, were so much increased by the formation of ice, that
it was altogether impossible to carry out the details of the
plan. Therefore I will only give the general outline.
The army was divided mto nine detachments. Three of these
were to form a column, which was to cross to the west of
Araba Konak and come down into the vdlages of Curiak,
Potok, and Stolnik. The command of the advance guard of
this column, consisting of two battaHons of the rifle brigade,
the Praobrajenski and Simionovsky Regiments, one brigade of
Kuban Cossacks and sixteen guns, was entrusted to General
Rauch. The entire column numbered thirty- one battalions
and forty guns, the Kuban Cossacks, one squadron of Cos
sacks of the Caucasus, and five squadrons of Dragoons.
The second column, commanded by General Weliaminoff, com
posed of a brigade of the 31st Division of infantry of the
line, two brigades of cavalry of the Guard, one battery of field
pieces, and one horse battery, was directed to cross the range
by the point marked on the Austrian map as Urmagas.
The third column, led by General DondeviUe, was to turn the
Turkish position on the summits east of the Pass, crossing
the range where the word Bata is found on the map, debouch
ing into the valley at Mierkovo.
The fourth column, commandedby General Schildener-Schuldner,
was to demonstrate against Lutikova.
The fifth column, comprising a regiment of Grenadiers, one and
a half battalions of a regiment of the line, two sotnias of
Cossacks, and two guns, was to remain in position near
Slatica to watch Kamarli.
With this disposition of the troops, it will easily be seen by the
map that if either of the columns on the right flank reached
the plain of Sofia to force the Turks, they would be menaced
in the rear of their positions at Baba Konak Pass, and being

288 WAR CORRESPONDENCE,
outnumbered three to one, they would have to retire toward
the Tatar Bazardjik chaussee, for no other road would be free
to them.
Before daylight on Christmas morning the bugles sounded the
reveille again and again, and soon the infantry crowded the
streets on the march towards Vracesi. It was bitterly cold
and frosty. The fog had settled down, so densely that before
sunrise the darkness was absolutely impenetrable, and even
after daybreak objects across the narrow streets were vague
and indistinct. The fog clung to the houses and trees and
the clothing of the soldiers, and froze there, covering every,
surface with a glistening garment of pure white. At nine
o'clock General Gourko and his staff left the town for the
bivouac of the Dragoons on the chaussee just behind the.
positions there.
It was a rare spectacle this group of horsemen as they moved
slowly along the ice-paved chaussee. The aides-de-camp I
were dressed in the most fantastic costumes. Some were 'in
greatcoats of dressed skins ornamented with embroidery and
buttons. Some were enveloped in Circassian cloaks, all
doubled1 up with the weight of additional clothing, and with
capuchons and wraps about the head. General Gourko,
leading the group, was alone dressed in a simple surtoutj
without mufflers of any kind. He rode along apparently un
conscious that the frost was turning his beard white, and
covering himself and horse with frozen crystals. It re
sembled more a carnival cavalcade than a general with his
staff, the effect being heightened by the picturesque Kuban
Cossacks in the convoy with their sheepskin hats and curious**
weapons.
Before we had been out half an hour icicles hung from the
beards and from the horses' mouths, and like a procession of
so many Santa Claus we rode into the defile through the chill
fog, the view being limited to the snow-laden trees along the
roadside. The soldiers began to straggle, several dropped,
overcome with cold and fatigue, and some were injured by
falling on the ice. Shortly after we passed Vracesi the fog
became thinner, and the white mountain tops glistening in
the sunlight shone through the mist as if hung in the air, for

THE BIVOUAC OF THE DRAGOONS. 289
the bases were still shrouded in vapour. A few minutes
further, and we come out of the fog bank into the bright
sunlight, and a warm south wind blew in our faces, melting
the frost and softening the hard ice on the chaussee.
The bivouac of the Dragoons, the place of rendezvous, was
situated at a point where the stream, flowing eastward from
the Etropol Balkans, meets the river at the chaussee. It is
here where the road turns off to cross the mountains to
Curiak, not where the dotted line is on the map. This road
is called the old Sofia Road, and was the principal thorough
fare towards Etropol before the chaussee was made. It was
totally disused for a number of years, and was never more
than a narrow neglected bridle-path. It was almost lost
among the trees, and was gullied with the rain and grown
over with bushes. A few days ago two battalions of the
Pravbrajensky regiment began to work on the path, graded
it somewhat, widened it nearly the whole extent, and cut
steps in the ice in the steepest place up to the summit. A
portion of the way was in full sight of the Turkish redoubts
east of Araba-Konak. Therefore work could be undertaken
only at night, and when the advance was made the path was
so good that it was believed that cannon could be brought up
with horses. When we arrived at the bivouac of the Dragoons
part of the advance guard had already moved through the
defile towards the west. The weather had grown cold again,
and waiting in the snow was disagreeable. At this point
the Princess Imperial section of the Red Cross Society had
established its head-quarters and erected six kibitkas, which
began already to be filled with men injured by falling on the
ice. Nearly the whole day we stood there, and the column
did not move a rod an hour.
I finally determined to make my way to the summit, and started
off two hours before sunset. The way was completely blocked
with artillery and infantry. The soldiers had made fires along
the path and were cooking their suppers, and everybody
seemed to be taking matters very easy. Hard climbing
brought me to the first difficult place in the path, and here I
discovered the cause of the delay. Four guns and their
caissons were being hauled up by hand. The ropes were
VOL. II. u

290 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
short, permitting not more than sixty men to take hold, and
even this number worked with exasperating deliberation. It
was soldiers of the line that were detailed to bring up the
first cannon. They were small men, unused to such work,
and after a long march from Plevna did not enter with any
enthusiasm into the novel and exhausting labour.
General Rauch stood half-way up the first steep incline, en
couraging the men to pull, and spurring up the officers.
Long after dark I worked my way up from one crowd of
soldiers to another. The intervals between the cannon grew
longer and longer, and when I reached the first one I found
the men all lying about resting as calmly as if it were not an
important part of the plan of the enterprise that all the
troops should get up the mountain before morning. The
officers lay down and slept. The men made fires. Others
scooped a hole in the snow, and were soon snoring peacefully.
The choruses which had sounded along the path as the
- soldiers hauled the heavy caissons up, inch by inch, finally
ceased altogether, and apparently everybody slept.
On the mountain, however, there was one man fuUy awake and
^ alive to the importance of energetic efforts, and that man
was General Rauch. The whole night long he climbed up
and down that slippery path endeavouring to communicate
some of his activity to the officers and men. The distance
up the mountain was, perhaps, four miles, and the entire
route was Hned with soldiers sleeping on the ice or gathered
around small fires in the snow. When they were awakened
and ordered to move on, they never showed any impatience,
but with their inimitable sang froid got up and walked
a few paces and then slept again, dropping down like dead
men.
Towards midnight General Gourko came up the path, followed
by his staff. He could no longer endure the delay, and his
sleepless energy would not permit him to remain inactive in
the rear. A Cossack post was found on the summit of the
watershed, and here the General and his staff lay down on
the snow around two fires, which were kept low that the
enemy might not notice them, and slept like the soldiers.
The Pravbrajensky regiment had advanced into the village of

GENERAL GOURKO. 291
1 Curiak, already for some days occupied by the Dragoon out
posts, and with them part of the train of packhorses had
descended in the early part of the night, so that there was
little to eat and meagre comfort in the snow bivouac. Officers
and soldiers lay around indiscriminately as near the fires as
they could get, for the icy wind was blowing across. the peak,
and the snow was freezing hard.
The sun rose on a scene of wonderful picturesqueness and a
landscape of serene beauty. Generals and aides-de-camp,
some wrapped in bourkas and furs, some in overcoats alone,
without additional covering, lay there in the snow huddled
together about the fires. Cossacks and dragoons were already
busy with their cooking, and hundreds of horses tied to the
trees about the bivouac stamped impatiently in the snow.
Southward lay the great plain of Sofia, its pure white face
only broken by Httle dark lines where the villages were, and
beyond, half veiled in dense clouds, were the mountains
further south, and the great peak Vitos that towers over
Sofia. Through the trees eastward was clearly visible the
great bare peak near the Bilia-Konak Pass, and the lines of
the Turkish works were drawn on the snow as plainly as
pencil marks on white paper. General Ranch, always on
foot, clambered up to the bivouac for a few moments' rest,
and to consult with General Gourkoj the motive power, and
General Maglovsky, the soul of the enterprise. Then both
General Rauch and General Gourko were off again to hasten
the movements.
,nI must pause to say one word in unquahfied praise of the
General who has taken upon himself the awful responsibility
of the passage of the Balkans in the dead of winter with
the flower of the Russian Army, the choice Corps of the
Guard. Never for a moment have I seen him lose his presence
of mind, or show the slightest signal of discouragement.
Always giving a personal example of energy and endurance,
always exceeding in activity any of his officers, determined
and courageous, he has the rare qualities which make him a
thorough soldier and inspire the confidence of the men he
leads. With all the weight of responsibility upon his
shoulders he laboured physically more than his officers, and
u 2

292 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
his enthusiam and energy, brought out clearly in this difficult
passage of the mountains, are simply sublime.
Perhaps it is not * altogether fair to criticize the work of the
soldiers, whose task is never too easy, and whose life in the
cold and snow has little except physical discomfort in it •
but I cannot help believing that if the men had worked in
reliefs, and had conceived the importance of haste, the entire
column would have passed up the mountain in the time
planned. To be sure allowance had not been made for the
slippery state of the roads ; but the active brains that had
planned the movement had counted on an echo of their
enthusiasm. At all events, by noon on the 26th only four
four-pounders with caissons were placed on the watershed.
News had come from the column on the right that the road
was well nigh impassable, and nothing whatever was heard
from DondeviUe on the left ; but the Guard had started up
the mountains near Etropol, and worked with a will, singing
and joking all the time during the long day we waited there
chafing with impatience. The road down to Curiak being in
sight of the Turkish positions was closed by patrols, and no
movement permitted in that direction. Everywhere all over
the mountain - top soldiers bivouacked in the snow in
picturesque groups, cooking their food and drying their
clothing, under little shelters constructed of snow and
branches.
When the twilight came on we all started down the mountain,
everybody on foot, for the path was so steep and slippery
that no horse could carry a rider down. A snowstorm began
before we had gone far and doubled the difficulty of the
descent. Part of the way we slid down Hke so many
schoolboys, and afterwards let ourselves down through the
undergrowth, for the road was one solid sheet of ice. Two
or three miles of this work brought us to the head of the
valley, and we were over the Balkans, breathless with the
exertion of the descent. We paused a moment, and shook
hands in the darkness, and then pushed on to the village,
where we slept under a roof as peacefully as if the Turks
were twenty miles instead of one mile away. How the
cannon came down this side it is almost impossible to tell,

THE VILLAGE OF CURIAK. 293
for the road was for a long distance only a gully made by the
rain, and the incline was so steep and slippery that it was
almost impossible to stand upon the road. However, the
four-pounders were in the village at daybreak, and the regi
ment of the line filed through in the forenoon.
Curiak is a small village hidden away in a gorge, and a narrow
valley winds through the hills to the plain beyond, a couple
of hours' ride- distant. At daybreak on the 27th the Cir
cassian outposts were standing on a little hill scarcely a mile
away, and we saw an officer with his staff come up and take
a look, then gallop away. The Brigade of Kuban Cossacks
was sent down the valley with one regiment of infantry to
the left, and one up on the height to the right. There was a
.little popping in the valley. The Turks in a little rifle pit on
the hill fired four rounds and then retired..
, The enterprising Kubans pushed ahead and saw out on the
plain a long transport train slowly moving towards Baba-1
Konak. They received orders to try and capture it. About
three o'clock two squadrons — scarcely more than a hundred
horsemen — dashed down into the plain and cut off half the
train, more than 200 waggons laden with provisions and
forage. The two squadrons of Turkish regular cavalry and
Circassians retired immediately, when the Kubans came
down ; but finding they were not outnumbered, returned and
gave battle. After a short sharp fight, in which ten Turks
were killed and two Cossacks wounded, the waggons were
left in the Russians' hands. The Cossacks cut the telegraph
wires, the infantry took up positions on the hills near the
plain, past the village of Potop, and the passage of the
' Balkans was an accomplished fact.
At the same time the column of DondeviUe was seen descending
the slopes near Mirkova, like a.,great black serpent. A few
prisoners were taken, who reported that the movement was a
complete surprise, which seems incredible, considering the
delays which occurred and the impossibility of finding routes
which were not in plain sight of the enemy. However,
yesterday the brigade of Cossacks raided up to the river
Isker, surprised and routed various bands of Turkish Cir
cassians, and cut off part of a large transport,, escorted by two

294 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
squadrons of cavalry and a battalion of infantry, gathered over
600 head of cattle and a large flock of sheep, and returned
at night to Stolnik, having killed threescore of the enemy
with a loss of three wounded.
Late last evening the column of General Wilhelminof began to
debouch into this valley, the descent to Zdava having proved
impracticable. These troops have undergone the most severe
hardships, and report that the storm on the mountain was
terrible. Soldiers who paused for a few moments became
indistinguishable from masses of snow. Many strayed
away. All suffered from want of food ; and when they
arrived here after an almost continuous march of five days,
and for thirty- six hours without a halt, they were drenched
and half frozen together.
The crossing has thus far cost very few lives, and it was ac
complished, too, in the face of unusually severe weather,
and to the complete surprise of the enemy. The Cossacks
have played a most important part in this movement, and the
history of their actions would make a most interesting letter.
They bring in prisoners almost every day, haH-naked and
scarcely recognizable as human beings, Turkish-Circassians
who have come into their lines believing them to be of the
same army from the similarity of dress. Yesterday a blond
young Kuban Cossack came riding in with a child of three
years old slung in the mane of his horse as a cradle. The
child was happily eating a morsel of hard bread, and had
been thrown away by its mother from one of the transport
waggons which escaped. The tenderness with which the
Cossack handled the chdd, and the expression that his face
wore as he fed the baby and gave it trinkets to play with,
were most touching. When the child was taken from the
horse to be given to the Red Cross attendants it cried lustily,
and refused to be consoled.
The situation to-day promises a speedy advance. The chaussee
is occupied in force, and a large number of battalions of
infantry, with artillery in abundance, are in possession of
Ilesnica. The soldiers of WHhelminof's column who have
reached here are half dead with hunger and fatigue, but find
plenty of Indian corn in the village to eat. They started

PROSPECT OF AN ADVANCE. 295
with five days' rations of hard bread, but most of them threw
it away on the upward climb, so that now biscuits sell among
them for a franc each.
There was a most peculiar effect of the column coming down
through the snow. The sky and the mountains were all one
colour, and the only spot on the blank white space was the
winding black line slowly moving down, as if from the
heavens. One by one the soldiers slid and scrambled down
the steep slope, and the cannon were let down by ropes,
wound about the trees or strong bushes. Once in the valley,
after their five days of mountain climbing, they proceeded to
make themselves as comfortable as possible under the circum
stances, and, the houses in the villages being -already
overcrowded, the men constructed straw shelters in a few
moments, so that all were under cover by sunset.
Now that the fatigues and dangers of the mountain climb are
over, everybody is exhilirated, and the perils that menace us
from the hands of the Turks seem insignificant in comparison
with those of the passage in the snow and cold. As I recaU
the thirty hours I spent in the mountains without shelter,
with scanty food — for my pack-horse, in company with many
others, had gone astray — it seems a time so full of touching
incidents and dramatic events that it recurs to my mind more
as the phantasmagoria of a troubled dream than a recollection
of real experience. The panorama of that mountain climb
would contain more scenes of personal devotion and more
dramas of human interest than most of the larger battles
of the war. Every step presented a new picture. Gathered
round a small fire at the foot of a large tree two or three
Guardsmen would be relating the history of Gorny Dubnik,
and with animated gestures illustrating how they dragged
guns up the mountains near Etropol. The small audience of the
soldiers of the line who had spent weary months in the Plevna
trenches could only stand and wonder at the experience of
the Guard, and, too cold to sleep, they passed the long night
thus in exchanging stories of the war. Huddled up against
the banked snow on the side of the pathway at every few
paces were the soldiers who carried up the muskets of those
who hauled the guns, and we stumbled over many lying in

296 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the path, shapeless bundles who could only be recognized , as
soldiers from the rifles which were stuck in the snow and lay
scattered about on either side the track, the men having fallen
fast asleep after futile efforts to make a fire out of the green
wood.
When the soldiers dragging the cannon halted for a moment
they lay down without letting go of the rope and slept on the
ice, one lying upon the other. Their feet were wrapped in
rags and skins, pointed capuchins covered their heads, almost
hiding the faces, and most of them wore their shelter tent
as a cloak. A file of them slowly stalking past in the dark
ness had a wondrously strange aspect. In the intense cold
of the night their overcoats became inflexible, like sheets of
iron. When the moon rose it lighted a scene of weird
picturesqueness, figures and trees coming out dark against
the mysterious background of snow, and the winding path
being lost far up in the frosty haze. At intervals along the
track were motionless groups of men, cannon, . horses, and
caissons ; and little fires twinkled with a ruddy light all over
the mountain side.
In the-midst of these interesting scenes one could not grasp the
full extent of the difficulties of the passage, for the attention
was occupied with individual efforts. It is only when it is
past that the full magnitude of the undertaking comes to be
understood and appreciated. I am conscious that I have done
scanty justice to the passage ; but with the thermometer at
zero, and no means of combining light and fire — for the
houses have no glass, and the wood is all green, and one must
choose between darkness with warmth and light with cold-
there is enough to prevent concentration on any subject.
•+- Taskosen, January 1st (Midnight). — The impossibility of
recrossing the mountains against the tide of troops in a
single, narrow path, and the difficulty of communications
between here and Sistova, a long four days' ride, compelled
me to keep back my description of the actual passage of the
Balkans until the highway was open, and my letter assnmes
naturally more or less the character of a diary.
We remained four days at Curiak waiting for the infantry and

THE PLAN OF ATTACK. 297
-artillery to get over the mountains. Meantime the cavalry
scoured the plain of Sofia, two regiments circling about as
far eastward as Dolny-Kamarli, south of Araba-Konak, and
every day prisoners and captured supplies were brought in.
News came in that Lutikova was evacuated, and the latest
reports from the positions in the Pass declared that the
Turks had withdrawn several cannon from the earthwork on
the summit of Greota, and were fortifying somewhere in
their rear. They were found to have built three redoubts
on the hill near Taskosen, just where the number 365,692
comes on the Austrian map, commanding the road at that
point, and the first movement in force on this side of the
mountain was to drive them from that position.
The attack was ordered for the morning of the 31st, and as
this move was planned especially to give the lead to Donde
viUe, and so complete the chain about the Turks in the
positions near the Pass, the tidings which reached us late in
the evening before the attack, that Dondeville's column had
failed to cross the mountains, and had retired to Etropol,
was anything but encouraging. The failure to cross was
bad enough, but he had been obliged to leave cannon on the
summit, and the artillerymen who remained with the guns
were all frozen, and buried in the driving snow, and among
the infantry the losses were also serious, for there was no
shelter on the cold mountain sides, and the snow made a
bivouac there impossible. So it was with a certain earnest
ness of resolution that we went forward through the narrow
little vaUey in the grey light of the early dawn.
The valley was crowded with reserves, and the artillery was
struggling along the icy road. We1 rode to the eastward
across the mountains until we came out upon a height near
Taskosen, and there halted to watch the movements, for below
us lay the whole region in the neighbourhood of the Turkish
positions spread out like a map. The valley and the moun
tain were cc^-red with snow, the masses of pure white only
broken by little dark spots of irregular shape, where villages
stood, patches of forest on the slopes, scattered trees along
the road, and the black straight lines of the Russian troops
as they marched to attack the positions.

298 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Directly over the little village, on a sharp, rocky peak, was
seen plainly the dark line of redoubts, and little camps with
tents and huts, and lines of infantry filing down the moun
tains towards the village. Every man could be seen as plainly
as black on white could be, both Turks and Russians, and we
awaited the first gun with the same impatience as one watches
for the curtain to rise in a theatre, for we were to be specta
tors of a drama of the most intense interest, where the action
was real, and the performers in all earnest, and the stage a
broad landscape where every object was as distinctly visible
as if presented on a mimic stage.
The Russian forces were divided into four columns. The
extreme right, commanded by General Kurloff, was to cross
the road and flank position by advancing over the mountain
near where the village of Malkocevo is situated. The next
column, and in reaHty the main force, was to rest on the
road, to demonstrate in front, and to turn the Turkish right
flank near the village of Danskioi with five battalions, while
another column was to cross the mountains between Danskioi
and Gorny-Kamarli, and the force of Count Shouvaloff was
to advance directly upon the rear of the enemy.
Shortly after dayHght two batteries got in position within easy
range of the redoubt, and began to work. General Rauch's
column concentrated behind the hill to deploy right and left,
and the sharpshooters stolidly climbed the hill where the
redoubts were. We could see them plainly as they toiled
slowly up among the rocks and bushes, and the Turkish
riflemen as they stood there waiting just in front of their
earthworks, two or three together. The great square, black
masses of infantry, that stood just beyond the road, began
to string out in long lines and advance, received by skirmishers,
towards the Turkish left, while the two brigades of cavalry that
were sent towards Dolny- Kamarli were moving along a thin
straight line rapidly eastward.
All the forenoon the artillery was exchanging shots with the
two Turkish batteries. Scattered musketry was heard, and
all along in front the batteries from the hill in the rear of the
Turks began to fire. Towards noon there was a brisk fusil
lade on the right. Shortly after it began came the news that

CAPTURE OF TASKOSEN. 299
General Mirkovitch was wounded there. The column had
met with a stubborn resistance. The Turks in the rifle pits
on the mountains were defending their left with determina
tion. A caisson exploded in the Turkish battery over the
village, giving the signal for ringing cheers that went up all
along the Hne, and Rauch's troops, which were joining hands
with Kurloff on their right, began to move up the hill
between the batteries and the village, and soon were on the
crest. The order was given then to attack about two o'clock,
and just as they went forward down the slope towards the
village, spreading out aU over the field, there came on a fog,
so that we could see only indistinctly how they rushed into
the town. But as one scattered group went in, the whole
hillside beyond was covered with Turks running away in
every direction. The enemy's batteries ceased firing from
the hiU, and in a few moments the musketry dropped away
into a few straggling shots.
We were in the village before four o'clock. There were a few
stray shots falling into the town, and several men were
wounded there, for the Turks were still resisting stoutly at
the Karaula, haH a mile up the road ; but the position was
evacuated, and only the blood-stained powder-blackened
snow, and a score or two of dead men showed where the
fight had been so hot. In the village were herded hundreds
of prisoners. Soldiers were ransacking every nook and corner
for plunder. Infantrymen were frisking about on captured
horses, and there was the ghastly spectacle of dead and
wounded on every side. But the worst was not in the
streets, for many houses in the village were filled with
dead. There was a station of the British National Society
of the Red Cross here, and several hospitals, and we found
dead and alive lying together as in the charnel houses of
Plevna.
At dark the fight ceased. A thousand fires twinkled all over
the white slopes, and we slept in the houses where fires
lighted by the Turks were still burning. The loss in killed
and wounded amounted to about 300 ; but it was a victory
cheaply gained, for though the key of the position, the
mountain on their left, covering their retreat from Baba-

300 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Konak by the road towards Slatica, was stiU held by the
enemy, pickets pushed up the road to the Karula. The
Turks had resisted with great valour, for they were out-'
numbered three to one. Their communications with Sofia
had been cut four days ; they had seen the Russians pouring
over into the valley, and dragging their artillery by paths
which were believed to be impassable ; they knew their only
hope of retreat from Baba-Konak was by the Slatica road,
and they held their ground like heroes.
One of the first things picked up in the village was a despatch
from Baker Pacha, who commanded there, to Chakir Pacha
at Araba-Konak, dated the same day, telling how eighteen
battaHons of Russians had descended the mountains and
twelve were attacking him, and that he was surrounded by
a circle of fire. General Gourko did not sleep until he had
pi^ared for the probable retreat of the forces from Baba-
Konak by sending all the cavalry at his disposal to Petricevo,
for DondeviUe was to make the crossing to Slatica with
General Brock's column, and thus remedy in part his failure
to cross to Mirkova.
New Year's morning was hazy and mild, and as the General and
his staff rode up the road at daybreak the mountain tops were
all hidden from view. With his ordinary escort of a score or
two, some dragomans, and a few Cossacks, the General rode
slowly on, passed the pickets at the Karula, and down the
hill towards the triangular valley south of Baba-Konak.
Half-a-dozen Cossacks galloped down the road and divided,
part following the road towards Araba-Konak, part towards
Slatica. There was perfect quiet, and every one in the small
group of horsemen seemed to feel the uncertainty of the
imminent future, for there was little conversation, and we
went on, passing a dead man here and there, tracing the
paths by which the wounded had dragged themselves to the
rear, and those who had fought at Taskosen the day before had
hastily retreated. No reconnaissance had been made towards
Baba-Konak ; in fact, we were making the reconnaissance
then, and General Gourko was riding along as usual at the
head of his staff, with only a handful of his escort a short
distance ahead of him. A dozen prisoners were soon brought

AN EXCITING CHASE. 301
back, and one or two gathered in by the Cossacks came
straggling along the road.
Just beyond the place where the road divides, the route towards
Baba-Konak comes out upon a little knoll, whence the
whole of the triangular valley is visible. Here we halted
and anxiously looked. Near the houses at Araba-Konak were
several Turkish cannons, and a dozen Cossacks were galloping
towards them. All along the further side of the valley were
men running through the snow. The Slatica road was trodden
hard. Cavalry had passed that way, and much infantry ; so
it was not surprising to see in the village of Dolny- Kamerli,
whither a number of waggons were hurrying, the unmis
takable black masses of infantry filling the streets. Cossacks
of the escort who went in that direction, wheeled and crossed
the fields to the left. Those who went towards Araba-Konak,
rushed off after the flying strag'glers, and one by one headed
them in. It was an exciting chase, for the horses could not
go fast through the. deep snow, and the fugitives scampered
away until fairly run down, though some knelt and threw up
their hands whilst the Cossacks were yet a long distance away.
Looking at this we almost forgot the troops of the Slatica
road, and when we looked again they began to crawl up the
hill-side behind the town, clustered like ants altogether at the
foot of the hiU, and then, quite like these insects, filling up
and struggling along on either side of the moving masses.
Six, seven, eight tabors we counted, and the rest were so
huddled together that it was impossible to separate them into
battalions. Artillery had been ordered up. We saw our
infantry advancing along the mountain, which had been so
vigorously defended the day before, and then form on the
road below.
As the great black masses stretched out and filled the road that
zigzagged up the hill, we could see that there were from
10,000 to 15,000 of them, and that they were moving away
in a great hurry. They hastily threw up trenches on the
summit of the hill, and by noon scarcely a Turk was visible.
Two guns were quickly got up, and there was some shelling
and a little musketry ; but they had two hours' start, and
the pursuit went on over the hills. Before they were out of

302 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
sight the thinnest possible black Hne was observed winding
down the White Mountain flank beyond, and above Araba.
Konak. They halted, and then the small knot of horsemen,
and the skirmishers in front of them, still lower down, has-
tened up to the main body, which speedily formed. Then for
a few moments we doubted whether they were not the Turks,
from the positions there, and the battery of nine-pounders
which had just unlimbered where we stood, seemed to have
arrived in the nick of time, when the soldiers gave a hearty
hurrah, and the cheer was faintly re-echoed away across on
the mountain, and we saw the line descend once more, and
we knew they were ours.
At this moment General Gourko turned around and said
earnestly, " Now we can say, in all conscience, that we have
crossed the Balkans, in every phase of the undertaking,"
and he shook hands warmly with every one, congratulating
those who counted this as their second passage.
Surely there was cause for felicitation, for the fight had lasted
from Christmas until New Year's day, first, with the forces
of nature, which were resisted with the wonderful pluck and
patient endurance of the Russian soldier, and then with the
enemy, who were driven from their chosen positions. A few
moments later the column from the mountains filed into the
valley, and the soldiers distributed the rice, bread, and salt
found in the Turkish camp, in less time than I write it, for
they had been on short rations for days. Near Araba-Konak
was a fine large tent of the Red Cross Society, and almost
the first man I met was the chief doctor of the British
National Society, Dr. Leslie, who had come from the village ,
of Strigli to ask for a guard from General Gourko, because
he with six other doctors were at work on the Turkish
wounded in the village, and it was deserted by the Turks
and not yet occupied by the Russians. Besides those seven
doctors the correspondent of the Illustrated London News
was also there. The guard was promptly furnished, and the
last I heard of the doctors was that they were still with the
wounded there. The Turkish surgeons all left with the
troops.
While we were welcoming the column from the mountains the

RUSSIAN LOSSES. 303
little detachment of General Wilhelminof, which had taken
up position at Gorny Bugaroff, was attacked by eight bat
talions of Turks, who came out from Sofia. The fight lasted
several hours, and then the Turks made an attempt to turn
the flank and advanced on the works in column. The
Russians waited until they were within a few paces, and first
¦gave them a volley and then charged upon them, scattering
them in the twinkling of an eye, and captured with the
prisoners one battle flag.
The details of the losses in General Dondeville's column have
reached us. During the terrible days of exposure on the
mountain, 810 men were placed hors de combat, of which
number twelve were officers. Seventy-nine men were frozen
to death. Thus the passage of the Balkans cost altogether
about 1,200 men.
Up to the present moment of writing, we hear meagre news of
the pursuit of the column of Turks. The deep snow pre
vents rapid movements of cavalry, which service, by the
way, is much too feeble in this army, and the infantry halted
towards night, for the men were too exhausted to keep up
the pursuit. There is little doubt, therefore, that the Turks
will escape with their artillery. The attack on Sofia will be
made before this despatch reaches the Danube, and there is
little doubt of the result, for there are few troops there.
The principal defences of the town, beside the old forts, are
three redoubts between the road and Slatica.
With this letter I send off my only remaining servant, the
storm and cold having blocked for many days all my com
munications, but after the passage of the mountains, it seems
as if one could have no further difficulties to contend with.

304 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

CHAPTER XL-
THE OCCUPATION OF SOFIA.
General Gourko's Congratulations. — The Small Tin Box. — The Craving for
Sweets. — Prisoners and Captured Provisions. — The Hospital Tent of the
British National Society. — Examination of the Captured Works. — Retrospect
of the Movement. — The Turks Completely Surprised. — Stripping of tbe
Dead by tbe Bulgarians. — A Little Plevna. — Tbe Battle Field of Goraj
Bugarof. — The Peasants of the Valley. — News from Sofia. — Authority of
General Gourko over his Troops. — The Fez and the Hat. — Neglect of
the Wounded. — Apathy of the Russians. — Lady Strangford's Benevolent
Labours. — Entry into Sofia. — Condition of the Town. — Feeling of the
People. — An Old Turk. — Retrospect of Recent Fighting. — Heavy Losses
of tbe Turks. — Intrepidity of General Gourko. — Public Reception of
the Victors. — Orderly Conduct of the Russian Soldiers. — Flight of the
Turkish Inhabitants. — Attempt by Bashi-Bazouks to Fire the Town.— Occu
pation of Ichtiman.— Operations of the Servian Army. — Capture of Pirotby
General Horvatovitch. — An Ambuscade.
In the following letter the narrative of General Gourko's
advance is continued. It will be seen that after the fall of
Plevna, or at least after the resumption by the Russians of those
active operations that had been temporarily hindered by the
stormy weather, the resistance in the Etropol Balkans was but
feebly sustained, and it soon became evident that the shattered
strength of the Turkish armies was destined to be concentrated
for the defence of the capital, the country west of Adrianople
being practically abandoned to the victorious enemy.
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Sofia, January 5th— It
was the supreme moment of the campaign when on New Year's
morning General Gourko turned to. his suite and congratulated
the officers on the success of the passage of the Balkans.
We stood there on a little knoll near the point where a branch
of the Sofia road turns eastward towards Slatica, ankle deep
in the snow, but forgetting the cold in the excitement of watch-

THE SMALL TIN BOX. 305
ing the cavalrymen hunt down the fugitives, and in the
anxiety about the situation at the Pass, for we had no indica
tions whether the enemy had yet retired, from the positions
there, or was about to make a final stand on the watershed.
When at last we saw a little thin black line winding down the
road out of the clouds that hid the summit of the pass, we
we knew it was the advanced guard of the troops who had
been holding the Russian entrenchments there, and we all felt
as if the hardships of life in the mountains, the terrible
sufferings of the soldiers, our own share in the- exposure and
toil, and the lack of food and simple comforts of camp life,
were once for all time ended. This business- had been grow
ing daily more tedious, and up to Christmas morning, when
we started away from Orkanieh to cross the range, we had
been hourly losing patience, and had come to receive the news
of so many soldiers frozen to death at the outposts, so many
others frost-bitten and sent back to the hospitals, with some
thing like the same feeling with which one- sees brave men's
lives thrown away in battle while standing under a hot
fire waiting for supports. Here, however, we knew that there
was no mistake made, that it was simply necessary to hold
the positions until the reinforcements arrived to swell the
force to sufficient size to turn the enemy's line, without being
obliged to attack it in front.
I1 shall always remember, as I think all present will, the tone
with which General Gourko said, " Now we can say, in all
conscience, that we have crossed the Balkans in every phase
of the undertaking." There were many there who contrasted
mentally the heat of the summer passage and the cold of the
winter campaign, the fresh green landscapes, and the snow-
covered bleak mountain sides before us, the succession of
pleasant picnics then, and the continual recurrence of uncom
fortable nights and cheerless days in Bulgarian villages,
where a leaky roof and windowless room were the best,
shelter we could expect to find. General Gourko called for
his orderly, who presented a small tin box. Expecting to see
either some official seal brought forth, or perhaps decorations
for the officers, I watched his movements with some interest.
Instead of crosses, he took out three pieces of chocolate, and
VOL. II. x

306 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
calling Generals Rauch and Naglovsky, he gave them each a
bit ; also Major Liegnitz, the Prussian military attache,
received his share.
This little incident illustrates much plainer than columns of
descriptive matter would do, the condition in which we found
ourselves after the week among the mountains, when salt was
worth its weight in gold, when bread was a luxury, and when
sugar and such articles as chocolate were not to be dreamed of.
The great question on every side had been for days " Have
you any bread ? " And I never heard any one confess that
he had. We used to stow away a crust of heavy bread made
of corn meal and take it out and gnaw at it in secret. There
was plenty of tea and it was passed around without sugar.
Every one would take his glass and drink it almost like medi
cine, for we had all cultivated a very sweet tooth ever since
we crossed the Danube. Some more provident than the
rest would be seen to slyly take out a lump of sugar about
the colour of the ground and nibble it while drinking their
portion of tea. It was a famine, not serious for us, it is true,
but which threatened serious misfortune for the soldiers if
communications were not speedily opened.
The ridiculous side of the question among the officers was
so prominent that in the midst of real deprivation we forgot
our wants. To see a colonel riding along with a stick strung
with bits of roasted meat in his sword hand, offering it to the
generals as he passed, excited great merriment, while every one
would have been glad to have got hold of part of the prize.
The day of the affair at Taskosen we slaughtered an ox on the
little hill where General Gourko and his staff watched the
battle, and every one set to work roasting bits of the smoking
flesh on sharpened sticks. We had had no breakfast, and asour (
appetites were sharpened by a quick ride of several miles in
the frosty air, these tit-bits were relished even without salt,
of which there was not enough in the whole party to drop on
a bird's tail. So when General Gourko regaled his officers
with small bits of chocolate, judging from my own feelings at
the time, it appeared to be about the most appropriate cele
bration of the event that, under the circumstances, one could
imagine. But lest my letter become an enumeration of repasts

FOOD AND STRATEGY. 307
in one form or another, for I observe it is rapidly taking that
character, I will not continue detailing the history of our
cuisine. One may be excused for alluding to it in view of
the fact that when it is a struggle to get anything to eat, one's
meals mark important events in each day ; and considering
also how much one's judgment is warped, his appreciation
directed, and even changed, by such small matters as failure
to arrive at dinner-time, or lack of forage for one's horse, I
may offer this excuse for mixing up food and fighting, strategy
and supplies, in rather a promiscuous manner.
We had a very hearty congratulation aU around that morning as
we stood in the snow, although the felicitations were inter
rupted for a moment by the inexpUcable movement
of the column we saw descending the mountain ; for
we saw the advance guard suddenly turn and hurry up to
the main body, and the troops make formation near the sum
mit of the pass, and we were not sure that it was not after all
the enemy's force coming down from the positions, until an
officer was sent up to find out, and they began to descend
again. Cavalrymen kept bringing in reports of how many
prisoners they had taken. One tall young fellow came up,
saluted, and said quite simply, as if he were detailing so
many bales of goods, " I have taken twenty -three Turks, six
teen oxen, two pair of buffaloes, and four sheep." Another
' one came up dragging along a Turk by the arm who refused
to give up his gun. He was slightly wounded, and when he
was compelled to throw down the weapon remarked with some
energy, " Well, when my wound is healed I shall take my
rifle and rejoin my battalion." The poor fellow had only one
idea, and that was to touch elbows with his comrades in
the ranks ; he didn't conceive that he was a prisoner.
The lively little chase in the valley still went on. The Cossacks
galloped slowly through the snow, leading in one after another
of the fugitives, who ran with all their strength until the
pursuers were right upon their heels, and then they stopped ;
the Cossacks circled around the prisoners once, and then
hastened off after the rest. The camps by the roadside were
now being plundered, rice, beans, and salt were speedily distri
buted, and a tent fuU of warm clothing made a hundred soldiers
x 2

308 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
happy. Three miles across the valley, at the little village of
Dolny-Kamarli, the Turkish army was standing in a great
black cluster, and just as the Russians began to file along the
mountains east of Taskosen the battalions crawled slowly up
the hill, and soon the whole line of the road was black with
a solid column of Turks hurrying up the zigzag with thou
sands of stragglers climbing up on either side of the road.
The column marched with great rapidity, and before the
Russians occupied the village the rear battalion had dis
appeared behind the crest of the hill, and a little earthwork
had sprung up like magic on the summit. There was a little
popping in the village, and the two pieces of cannon which
had dashed along the road sent a sheU or two after the retreat
ing column, but the pursuit was not very lively.
At Araba-Konak we found the great hospital tent of the British
National Society, and a small store of rice, salt, and hard
bread, and along the road were piled thousands of boxes of
ammunition of aU kinds, over five million rounds of small
arm ammunition among the lot.
The General visited the Turkish positions on Mount Shandamik,
having some curiosity to examine the fortifications which we
had looked at so long from below. The redoubts on the east
of the road numbered eleven in all, and three defended the
pass on the west. All of these works were as neat and trim
as a gentleman's garden, and they were as cosy as children's
play-houses. Nine cannon were found in the works, and the
reason why they were left was apparent. The whole distance
behind the line of fortifications was a succession of precipices '
and impassable ravines, and the only approach to the works
on the highest summit was by the whole length of the line,
consequently when they withdrew from the works they were
obliged to move their artillery along the whole line to the
road. A large force of Russian Volunteers attacked the
works about the time the retreat was made, and the Turks
were obliged to make a show against them, which they did
effectually. But the Russian batteries, which had been at
work all day, poured in such a shower of projectiles that the
Turks found themselves obliged to leave the cannon, because
to bring them down the whole line of works exposed a long

PRINCE ZERETELEFF. 309
distance to the terrible fire, was sure destruction to men and
horses. The fortifications, while occupying impregnable
positions, .had no line of retreat except by the road.
A few paces behind the redoubts, on the west of the pass, there
is a sharp declivity impossible to scale, and all the soldiers
who went into the works were exposed to the Russian fire.
This explained the reason of their constant exposure, which
had long been a problem to the Russians. Another weakness
of this position was the absence of any depot of stores near.
The troops were fed from day to day by transport trains from
Sofia, and when the road was cut there was no alternative
but retreat. It seems inexplicable that the Turks have not
studied the country sufficient to be aware of the existence of
practicable roads on either side of the pass, but such is the
case. The first step the Russians took was to study accu
rately the range in front of them, and by comparing and
classifying the information of a great many natives, they
succeeded in getting an approximately true idea of the topo
graphy of the mountains, and every officer who made a recon
naissance was provided with a map which, while it did not
perhaps indicate the exact conformation of the ground, was
sufficiently right in distances, and he went ahead sure of his
path.
To Prince Tzereteleff, who has already in the first passage gained
a great reputation for his services, the work of finding paths
across the range here was entrusted, and in a few days he
found half a dozen routes, any of which could be used. The
last path explored, and by much the easiest, crosses the range
just west of Shandamik, and comes out at Mirkovo. Unfor
tunately, this was not discovered until too late to make use
of it, for the road over the watershed to Curiak was already
worked by two battalions of the Praobrajensky regiment,
and the order had been given for the main column to cross
that way. The Russian maps are all of them inexact, but
the officers supply the deficiencies by diligent and enter
prising study of the country as they advance, and know the
mountains they are to pass through much better than the
Turks do, who have had all the opportunities of studying
them. So the positions at the Baba-Konak Pass were turned

310 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
by four separate columns. DondevUle's detachment crossed
the range, and would have fulfiUed its role if the severe
storm had not driven it back to Etropol with the fearful loss
of nearly 1,000 men hors de combat. A very small force of
Turks at either of those roads would have delayed and
perhaps effectually prevented the passage. The movements
were made so slowly that it seemed quite incredible that the
Turks did not have an idea of what was going on, but all the
prisoners agreed that it was a complete surprise, and I am
told that Baker Pacha was the only Turkish officer who fore
told the move.
We rode back to Taskosen the evening after the retreat, passing
a long string of wounded Turks, slowly crawling along the
road towards the sharp little rise that separates the triangular
valley from the village where head-quarters were. They
needed no guard, for they were only too anxious to reach the
village, where they could find shelter for the night with the
other prisoners. I know the fate of most of this procession
of miserable sufferers, for the next day I came over the road
again, and the majority of them lay dead in the route where
they had fallen in the night, struggling up the hiU. I had
the satisfaction of whipping away a few Bulgarians who
were stripping them. The same scoundrels who refused
the day before to help the wounded to reach their destination
were the first ones to come back and despoil those who died
because they were not assisted to climb the hdl. Taskosen
was a little Plevna ; dead men lay on all sides ; the hospital
of the Red Crescent there, which might have been once well
arranged and neat, was in a most filthy condition, and dead
and dying were side by side in a dark, foul-smelling barn,
and several rooms in the village were full of corpses.
The next morning General Gourko moved his head-quarters to
Gorny Bugarof, the village where, on the preceding day,
there had been a very sharp fight. We were an hour on the
road when an officer came galloping up to overtake us with
the surprising information that Baker Pacha was wounded
and a prisoner at Strigli. As Dr. Leslie, of the British
National Aid Society, had visited us the day before and had
made no mention of this, I did not credit the story very

COLONEL BAKER. 311
much ; but when the officer, who was about to start for head
quarters, was told to make this report to the Grand Duke, I
thought it was time to investigate the matter, and conse
quently turned round and rode away towards Strigli. In a
few moments Prince Tzereteleff overtook me, having been
sent by General Gourko to see the prisoner, and we kept
company. Prince Oldenburg, who had commanded the
positions of Generals Rauch and DondeviUe during the
passage, was quartered with a division in the village, and
readily gave us permission to visit the Englishmen. In a
little house distinguished by the Red Crescent flag we
found Colonel Baker, Drs. LesHe, Kirkpatrick, Gooderich,
and Denton, with their storekeeper, Mr. Vitalis, and Mr.
Joseph BeU, of the Illustrated London News.
Prince Oldenburg had already told us that it was not Baker
Pacha who was a prisoner, so we were not surprised to find
that the gentleman we had come to see was the chief of
the Turkish gendarmes, who, being Ul with dysentery, was
unable to move. Colonel Baker received us with cordiality,
and we had a pleasant chat on the situation. He hoped to
be moved in a few days, and it was beHeved that Dr. Leslie
would be permitted to accompany him to Bucharest. The
doctors were^well quartered, their horses were stabled, and for
all I could see they were very comfortable. In their lodgings
I found more luxury than I had met since Bucharest, and I
should have been only too willing to cast in my lot with them
as far as personal comfort was concerned. The one httle
thorn in the flesh was that they were not altogether sure
what would be done with them, for no one seemed to know
whether they would be treated as prisoners or not, whether
they would be sent into Russia, or into the Turkish lines.
This latter is a question which I am still unable to answer,
I only know that Colonel Baker is the sole prisoner among
them. To seat myself in a warm comfortable room with
signs of abundant stores all about, and to find a type of face
that was grateful to my eyes, an accent that was pleasant to
my ears, was an inexpressible delight after weeks of squalor,
of privation and hardship, and it was nearly dark before we

312 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
could make up our minds to start away with our tired horses-
on the thirty mile ride.
At sunset it began to freeze, and when we got past Taskosen the
road was one sheet of ice, for the troops had marched over
it while the snow was soft, and our horses skated along
threatening to fall at every moment. A single post of Cos
sacks were the only live human beings we met on the long
route, and a longer road I never travelled. A chill mist hid
the mountains and settled freezing on ourselves and horses.
Stumbling, slipping, shuffling along the smooth road, we
slowly advanced, passing on the left and right the dim glare
of bivouacs, without seeing a single fire until within a half
mile of Gorny Bugarof, when we saw on the hill-side a
bivouac lighted by hundreds of large fires, and we made for
the point. AU along the road near the village were stark
corpses, with great sabre cuts on their heads, tumbled into
ditches, or lying stiff across the path. The bivouac was on
the hill-side near the village, and as we rode through it there
came out against the sky to meet us a line of men carrying
the dead of the day before, to bury them in the cornfields on
the slope. Lighted by the ruddy reflections from the fires,
in distinct outline against the sky, moving along slowly, and
without a sound, this was rather a weird welcome to the
village after our ride ; but we tumbled into a cellar half
filled with hay, where a bright fire was blazing in an open
fireplace, and forgot in an instant Turk and Russian, living
and dead. Shelter is a necessity in weather such as we have
been having for a month, and with the thermometer below
zero, one soon discovers that it is best not to be too proud,
but to put up with whatever one can find. There is always
a lingering sensation of disgust at being forced to sleep on
the straw where men lay dead a few hours before. Then,
too, it is not agreeable to feel that in the walls, the floor, in
the straw is lurking the fever that this state of filth must
generate, and perhaps all sorts of contagions diseases. How
ever, fatigue. and want of sleep dull .all senses, and oblivion
is most welcome.
The battle-field near Gorny Bugarof is covered as thickly with

THE FIELD OF GORNY BUGAROF. 313
dead as any I have seen in the war. The village lies in a
shallow valley near the edge of the level plain that stretches
away uninterruptedly towards Sofia. The hills about the
village are low, and the rise on all sides is gentle and unbroken
by ravines or cover of any kind ; the stalks of Indian corn
sticking out of the snow show that the land was cultivated,
but not a hedge or ditch interrupts the smooth blank surface
of the plain. No, not blank, for everywhere, scattered thickly
over the snow, are black spots all along the hill-side, in groups
near the line of shallow rifle pits on the top of the rise west
of the town, clustered by dozens in the cornfields at the foot
of the first slope, and straggling away down to the road nearly
a mile away. It is early morning, and coming towards the
battle-field like a flock of vultures, impelled by similar in
stincts, no more worthy the respect and consideration of
civilized men than these foul birds, are crowds of Bulgarians,
every man with a stick and a bag. Two or three of them
assemble around a corpse ; they poke it with their sticks ;
they pry over the rigid thing, half afraid to touch it ; but a
red sash is too much for one of them, and he seizes it and
drags it from the dead man's waist. Another grabs the
uniform jacket, and snatches the sleeves from the stiff arms
as if he were afraid the dead man would harm him. Now
they grow bolder and actually wrangle and shove each other
about, for one of them wants the trousers, and a second
ruffian disputes the prize with him.
While I am looking at this scene, half making up my mind to
leave fresh subjects for spoliation on the battle-field along
side the dead of two days before, a soldier comes along and
spits on the group in disgust. I feel that this is an insult
that they can understand, and leave them to continue their
robbery in another part of the field, for they have hurried
away after the soldier has passed. In a few moments the
battle-reld swarms with these human vultures, and I sit
hopelessly, helplessly on my horse, and watch them strip
entirely naked, underclothing and all, the brave fellows who
fell within two horses' lengths of those rifle-pits. Now I
understand why those corpses in the snow on Shandamik
were naked ; now for the first time I see what I have always

314 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
heard of the Bulgarians, that they rob the dead after a battle,
and have no scruples about it either.
The peasants in the valley here are a pretty hard-looking set at
the best. They are finely developed physically, with rather
gross features, and rarely anything attractive in their type.
They generally shave their heads, leaving a long scalp-lock
like the Chinese or the American Indians, and dress in a
short loose jacket and tight trowsers, like the Japanese.
They are quite a different type from the peasants about
Tirnova, much more brutal in their manners, and without
anything like affection for family or friends, as far as I have
seen them during my short stay here, and what experience I
have had with them in money matters has made me believe
there is little honesty among them. In the mountains, at
Etropol, at Orkanieh, I met numbers of really superior caste
, among the peasants. This side of the range I have yet to
find one above the average, which is low enough without any
question. I would not pretend to make any general state
ments about the race, although I have been in contact with
them without intermission since the first crossing of the
Danube at Matchin, for I find them quite different in many
traits of character in different regions, the native of the
mountains being quite another man from the peasant of the
plain, and those on the Tirnova side as much superior to those
about Orkanieh as human beings, as can be imagined. I
only state the facts which have come under my observation
without discussing the reasons for the brutality and sordid-
ness of this people, or such of them as I have met. The
argument of those very charitably inclined towards the Bul
garians is that they strip the dead because they believe they
are only taking back what has been stolen from them. The
same argument would apply to the cases where the men beat
their sick mothers because they groan ; it is only paying back
the cuffs they received in childhood. 1
From the tracks in the snow on the battle-field at Gorny
Bugarof I could draw a plan of the fight and estimate the
numbers engaged. The Russian boot-tracks are quite
different from the heelless foot-prints of the Turks, and it
was easy to follow the movements of both sides, even to trace

THE SUGAR QUESTION. 315
just where the charge was made, where the bayonets were
plied, and where the wounded were gathered up. It was a
mild misty morning when I rode over the battle-field, and
the air was so thick that the mosques of Sofia were invisible.
Accompanying General Gourko, who made a personal re
connaissance away round to the north of the town, we came
within a mile of the outlying houses. Very little movement
was observable near the town, but the camps near the earth
works on the hill to the east were black with soldiers, the
fortifications were manned, and there was no sign of evacua
tion. The attack, which was planned for the next day, had
been postponed because the troops had not come up for the
column which was to advance from the north-west with a
detachment on the west of the city, and that afternoon, the
3rd of January, we moved our quarters again to a large farm
house, said to be the property of a rich Turk, near the covered
bridge across the Isker, where the skirmish had been the day
I went to StrigH. Turkeys, geese, chickens, and live stock
abounded, and we had our first feast since the day before
Christmas, and prepared to pass thirty- six hours in quiet
there.
Everybody was anxious to get into Sofia, and we did not relish
the forced pause, first because we expected to have a hard
fight, and to lose several thousand men, and it was better to
have it over than to sit and think about it ; and second, we
had been living from hand to mouth for so long that we were
impatient to have a change. The cry was in everybody's
mouth, " Give us sugar ! " and the universal remark which
passed around to cheer the despondent and to quiet the
impatient was, " We'll get sugar in Sofia." Without ex
aggeration, I believe that this was uppermost for the moment
in the minds of the majority of the officers. Naturally enough
too, for with the retreat of Chakir Pacha, the responsibility
seemed bight, and the attention reverted to the persona]
privations again, and of all privations the lack of sugar was
the most keenly felt. Even salt might be spared, but sugar
never. I had been scribbling on my letters in the brief and
infrequent intervals of quiet which are granted to any one
who accompanies General Gourko, for he rarely is out of the

316 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
saddle in the daytime.. I had been sitting in the snow, with
the thermometer below zero. I had been writing by firelight
in rooms crowded with a gossiping, laughing, noisy party,
singeing my hair trying to get the flicker from the flame of
green wood in the bivouac on the paper, to make the pencil
marks visible. I had been, in fact, writing under every form
of discomfort with my best table the seat of the saddle,
sprawled on the snow or on the floor ; so it was with con
siderable relief that I found a Httle fireplace in an open hall,
and for the first time in two weeks sat down on a chair and
prepared to write.'
While thawing my ink a Cossack came trotting into the court
and announced that Sofia was evacuated. No one believed
it, and I put the date on the sheet, but did not get any further
before an officer came with the news that General Ranch's
column was entering the city. It was then nearly two o'clock
in the afternoon, and the advance guard had been in the town
since ten, and we had had no word of it although we were
not over an hour's ride away. We saddled and started on a
quick trot, and passed the covered bridge just after the last
detachment of General Rauch's column had gone over it.
From here to the city the road was a solid column of infantry
marching slowly along with unfurled flags, stepping to the
time of the ringing songs of the platoons in front of each
battalion. They were not quite as trim as when they crossed
the Sistova Bridge, their caps were warped out of shape,
their overcoats occasionally tattered and burned, and their
faces and hands brown and roughened with the constant
exposure, but they were as tidy as could be expected) and
marched with a swing and regularity that was refreshing; to
see after the forced disorder of the mountain marches. A
total stranger could not have failed to notice how perfectly
General Gourko had his troops in hand, for the tone in which
they answered his customary salutation, the expression of the
individual faces as he passed, and the way in which they,
received the caution not to pillage in the city, were proof of ;
this. He has a thrilling sternness in his voice when he
chooses, and he gives his orders sometimes with a tone that
is almost terrible in its severity. And I never heard him give

THE FEZ AND THE HAT. 317
an order with more earnestness than the charge to the soldiers
not to dare to touch a single article in the town, and they had
understood even before he shook his finger at them that
plundering was not to be permitted.
The fact is that when we came into the place there was perfect
quiet,' a large patrol was in the streets even before the troops
halted, and all pillage was stopped. The entrance of General
Gourko was rather a tame affair compared with his entry into
Tirnova, for example, and there was not enough enthusiasm
among the people to raise a cheer or a good round of ap
plause. It was rather a cold afternoon and the citizens were
shivering about, many of them thinly dressed, for all who
could had discarded their waving garments of the Turkish
cut and put on odd pieces of European dress. Full suits of
light summer stuffs were not uncommon, and their attempts
to Europeanize themselves were almost pitiable. The fez,
however, was the most common head-gear. They had no
other covering for the heads, the most of them, and they
even forgot to take these off when the general passed. They
couldn't, of course, learn in a half-day that it was the
custom of their deHverers to doff the hat, when they had
been brought up all their lives accustomed to see the fez
worn on all occasions, and the lesson was taught them in
rather a rude way sometimes. The soldiers considered
that the fez indicated the Turks, and often threw them to the
ground, but I couldn't excuse the action of some officers who
must have been aware that this article of clothing has as
little significance in the mixed population of the Turkish
cities as the rosary that is never out of the hands of the
majority of the people in the Levant. The next day there
were hats enough of all shapes and all dates to satisfy the
most unreasonable of the fez-haters, and it was rather a
(ludicrous sight to see a full Turkish costume surmouted by
a silk hat of date '50 or a fur cloak and a straw hat, worn by
the same person. The style is gradually reverting again,
however, to that of the period of the Turkish occupation,
and the fez, which on the first afternoon was as provoking to the
soldiers as a red rag to a bull, can now be worn without
'danger of insult.

318 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
The retreating troops did not get out of the city until three
o'clock in the morning of the day General Gourko entered,
and the battalions formed in the streets and began to march
away at seven o'clock in the evening before the waggon
trains had been moving off. For forty-eight hours the
wounded, or such of them as could walk, were ordered away
by Kirkor Bey, the medical director of the town on the 3rd,
and five or six thousand of them limped away, urged on by
fear of ..the Russians. Of their fate there is little doubt,
although we have had no news of them. Like the straggling
wounded at Taskosen, the majority of them will die from cold
and hunger, and the whole route of retreat is in all pro
bability paved with their corpses before this. From what I
can judge from the hospitals here they were once very well
arranged, perfectly clean and comfortable. There are between
seventy and eighty houses in the town, which were used as
hospitals, the konak, the mosques, schoolhouses, and other
public buildings among the number.
In these buildings the patients were all on beds raised eighteen
inches from the floor, the mattresses are well made and still
in good condition, and the abundance of bedding and neces
sary furniture of every kind shows that they were arranged
with great care. But these hospitals, when General Gourko
visited them, were great tombs for dead and living, filthy to
the last degree, with an atmosphere so heavy with horrible
and disgusting odours, that it seemed as if it was impossible
for human beings to live there. The dead outnumbered the
living in many wards. Some had been murdered by the
Bulgarians, probably because they had not strength enough
to resist being robbed, for the survivors in the deserted wards
state that the Bulgarians made a tour of robbery among
them, which the loss of their money tends to prove, and the
action of the Bulgarian attendants in Lady Strangford's
Hospital, who first plundered the patients and then ran
away and deserted them in the night, makes it seem pro
bable. Certain it is that many Turks were murdered, if any
reliance is to be placed on the word of the doctors, American)
English, and Turkish, who attended them; some died from
sheer fright, and many were unable to support life on the

NEGLECT OF THE WOUNDED. 319
meagre rations that were served to them during the Russian
occupation, for when the Turks stopped issuing rations, there
was no one to step in ahd fill the interim, and the helpless
were the sufferers.
The Konak was the most horrible of the whole list of pest-
houses. Dead men in every attitude lay all over the floor of
the halls, on the stairs, in the closets, in the passage ways,
and on the beds in the wards. The filth of days was on the
floors. From the undressed wounds came a most fearful
sickening stench — it was in fact exactly a parallel with the
similar hospitals at Plevna after the surrender. I can account
for this awful state of the wounded only by believing what
is asserted by the Europeans, that though the hospitals were
methodically arranged and well attended, the doctors were
ignorant and careless, and, with all their assistants and
nurses, took the first opportunity of running away. Two
days of neglect would be sufficient to produce the effect we
witnessed. When we visited these places there was rarely
an attendant to be seen. Some had probably come back since
the first troops entered the town, a few had stayed at their
posts through the whole ; but the number was so small that
they could not begin to care for one in ten of their patients,
and they died like sheep. This is not a subject that I care to
linger over long, for it is becoming monotonous to chronicle
instance after instance of neglected wounded, of long un
buried dead, and of pestilential hospitals ; but it is such a
prominent feature of this war, the inhuman treatment of the
wounded and the contempt of the dead, that one is forced
" to describe it in order to do justice to the situation.
There was an interim of three days between the time when the
Turks ceased issuing rations to the wounded and the Rus
sians began giving out food to their prisoners. I believe
there is no valid excuse for this neglect to provide food for
the wounded, for there were plenty of stores captured in the
town, and numbers of ovens, which are only beginning work
at the date of this letter. If I may criticize broadly the
course of the Russians here and at Plevna, I may say that they
seemed so dazed by the novelty of their situation as victors
in possession of these cities that they did not get fully awake

320 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
to their duties towards their prisoners or comprehend clearly
the situation ; in a word, they did not appreciate the fact
that they were responsible for the support of the men who
had passed into their hands as captives, until three or four
days after the surrender. I firmly believe that if they had
recaptured their own wounded they would have acted no
more promptly. More than once have I seen them make a
distinction in favour of wounded Turks when their own
soldiers needed the assistance quite as much. I can con
scientiously charge them only with a crime of omission, and
it is not in the national character to do any different from
what they have done. They put off digging trenches on a
newly- taken position until to-morrow ; they calmly leave
their wounded untU to-morrow, as many were left on the
field at Gorny Dubnik ; they have no conception of the value
of time, which is all-important on the occasions of which I
speak, and they are the sufferers oftener than any one
else.
From the doctors at Strigli we learned that Lady Strangford
had resolved to continue her work uninterrupted by the
approach of the Russians, because the patients in her hospital
were the worst cases in the town, and it was impossible to
move them. When this became known there was a lively
curiosity among the officers to examine the hospital, and the
visitors began to pour in from the first hour of occupation,
all the chief officers, from General Gourko down, being
counted in the number. The EngUshmen here have received
nothing but kindness from the Russians, and Lady Strang
ford has been treated with marked consideration and defer
ence, which I am sure she appreciates. There was some
difficulty at first in explaining the difference between the
Turkish ambulance, the Red Crescent Society, the Stafford
House detachment, and the Hospital of Lady Strangford,
Some misunderstanding followed, naturally enough, but
everything has been amicably settled.
The interim between the departure of the Turks and the
arrival of the Russians passed without incident and in com
parative quiet. When the troops first entered the town some '
Cossacks presented themselves at the door of Lady Strang-

LADY STRANGFORD'S HOSPITAL. 321
ford's hospital and demanded admission, throwing the cap
from Lady Strangford's head, because it was ornamented
with the Red Crescent, but saw their mistake, and apolo
gized before they were allowed to enter. A guard was im
mediately placed at all the entrances, and no one was per
mitted to pass except with the Red Cross or Crescent upon
their arm, and the work in the hospital went on as usual,
barring the interruptions caused by the desertions of the
Bulgarians who were employed in the different wards. The
patients number nearly 150 ; the hospital occupies a large
school-house, and I need not pause to praise the internal
arrangements, for this will be readily understood. During
the evacuation many of the patients left their beds and
followed the army, and Dr. Stephenson, Lady Strangford's
surgeon, worked all night and the forenoon following in
transporting to the hospital as many of the deserted
wounded as there was room for, bringing some on his back
and dragging others by hand in arabas with the aid of one
or two other surgeons. Besides Dr. Stephenson, Drs.
Wattie and Busby {of the Stafford House detachment),
Drs. Ruddock, Macpherson, King, and Jennings (of the
Eed Cross), and their assistants, together with one other
Englishman, one American, and several German doctors
(all the latter in the Turkish service), remained in the
town. I have only one word to say for the Englishmen
who remained here, and that is that they have done their
duty, cheerfully, promptly, and with a great deal of self-
denial. Can any more just praise be given them than that
they have done what was to be expected of them as men,
as surgeons, and as Englishmen ? The fact that Lady
Strangford remained at her post at a time when her sex
and her position were not the least protection, need only
to be recorded to be appreciated.
Sofia has already so often been described that anything that I
can write about that city at this time, when its principal
shops are deserted, some of the best houses burned, and half
its population fugitives, will have little value as a true picture
of the place. There are a great many foreigners in the town,
many of them formerly in the employment of the railway
VOL. II. Y

322 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
companies. Three consuls remain — -the French, Italian, and
Austrian. Italian was the first language I heard in the
street, and the little Bulgarian boy who held my horse
answered me with a clear Italian accent. There are French
and Italian restaurants, where they charge now 300 piastres
for what a week ago was readily given for thirty. Wine
which sold for two francs now brings sixteen, and every other
article has risen in like proportion, even to bread, a piastre
loaf being readily sold for three and four piastres. Turkish
paper money is worthless, and Russian roubles are now in
general circulation. It is surprising to see how quickly the
Russian money supplants that of the country. Gold rings
upon every counter, roubles cram every till, for the few shops
that are open are besieged with purchasers, who crowd and
elbow for a place at the counter and buy provisions in great
quantities, regardless of price. It does not take long for the
Levantine traders to understand how to treat the Russians,
and they quadruple their prices, and cling to the new tariff
without yielding. These same fellows, who a week ago
would gracefully come down in the price of their goods to
one-third the sum originally demanded, now never drop a
piastre, for they know they are sure to seU at any price.
It is curious to observe how apathetic the people are. A fire
does not bring together a crowd, no one pays any attention
to a wounded man in the streets, and the great multitude of
Turkish refugees who were brought into the town, the most
miserable, wretched-looking beings that were ever seen, half-
frozen, half-starved, and quite done up, did not attract a
passing glance. The wave of war has swept over these
people, and has brought in its current new vices and increase
of crime. There has been some firing in the streets at night,
but although I have heard several shots, I have found no one
who could confirm the reports that murders have been
committed since the patrols have been in the streets. Very
few or no Turkish families remained in the town. I have
found one old Turk who, unable to flee, sits in his house and
reads his Koran all day long, and receives the visits of the
Russian officers with rare grace and a sympathetic manner
that are most charming.

sofia. 323
With the partial stagnation of business, which was never very
lively here, the consumption of provisions and the presence
of a large floating population, Sofia will not be a pleasant
place to winter in, so I am not sorry we are soon to move.
Besides, the great plain beyond the next range of mountains
is full of possibilities and promise, and there we hope for
milder weather. It is disagreeable riding with the thermo
meter at five degrees below zero, and a constant fight with
the cold is wearing to the constitution and trying to the
patience. Our visit to Sofia has brought us back once more
to the world, for here we have found papers nearly up to
Christmas time. As my last mail reached me November
16th, it may be imagined that newspapers were welcome.
+ Headquarters of General Gourko, Sofia, January 9th. — •
The evacuation of Sofia was as unexpected as the fall of
Plevna. From all indications, it seemed probable that the
Turks would make a stand with sufficient force to prevent
easy occupation of the town, and would defend the place
with at least as much vigour as they had resisted the
approach to its immediate neighbourhood. On New Year's
Day the detachment commanded by General Wilhelminof
was attacked near Gorny Bugarof with great desperation,
and it was only after a fierce fight of some hours, and with
a loss of 250, that the enemy was repulsed. Although the
Russian positions were well chosen and commanded the road
and the level ground near it, the Turks manoeuvred so well
and advanced with such recklessness, that they very nearly
gained the day. In killed alone they lost upwards of 500 ;
in wounded 1,500. The region in the vicinity of the village
is thickly strewn with corpses, and even to this day the Bul
garians continue their horrible task of stripping the dead.
The greater part of the dead lie within 100 feet of the
shaUow Russian rifle-pits, testifying to the heroism of the
Turks, who after advancing across an open cornfield for half
a mile ran straight up the slope within bayonetting distance
of their foe, and held their ground until thinned out by the
terrible fire, and at last turned back with the Russians upon
their heels, and left half their number on the snow before
Y 2

324 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
they formed again on the road. After the fight there was
an armistice, during which the wounded on both sides
were carried off the field, but only the Russian dead were
buried.
This brilliant little fight was going on while we were watching
near Araba Konak the army of Chakir Pacha file up the
hills beyond Dolny Kamarli in its hasty retreat southward.
The following afternoon General Gourko was at Gorny
Bugarof, having left Taskosen at noon. He reached the
village just in time to hear the first few shots of a sharp,
little skirmish going on near the covered bridge over the
Isker. The enemy had thrown up a short line of low earth.
works on either side the road beyond the bridge, and with a
detachment of two or three tabors in the trenches and three s
times this number in reserve, they attempted to prevent the I
passage of the river. The Praobrajensky regiment crossed^
on the ice, turning the Turks by either flank, and they retired
after brief resistance, setting fire to the bridge and the village
of Razdimne as they left. The soldiers reached the bridge <
before the flames had gained great headway, and began to
throw water and snow upon the burning timbers with their
copper pots, and extinguished the fire before the structure-
was damaged to any great extent.
General Gourko crossed while the fire was at its height,
making his way with his accustomed coolness through the
flame and smoke, the first one to pass over the bridge on horse
back, and his staff followed in momentary expectation that
the flooring would give way. If the bridge had been blown
up, the passage of the river would have caused no little
delay and trouble, and the attempt to burn it at the last
moment shows that its destruction was not long premeditated.
I was not present at this skirmish, having hurried off to Strigli
to ascertain the truth of the report which had been sent to'
the Grand Duke that Baker Pacha had been wounded i
taken prisoner, but the scene is described to me as wonderfully
dramatic and picturesque. It was almost midnight when I
found the headquarters in the village of Gorny Bugarof,
having satisfied myself that the captured Englishman], wasi
not Baker Pacha but a colonel of the same name, chief of"

RETROSPECT OF RECENT FIGHTING. 325
the Turkish gendarmerie. It was a cold night, and the road
was so slippery that the horses could scarcely stand, and
it seemed as if the long, straight, monotonous road would
never end. As I approached the village, the dead Turks,
sabred by the Kuban Cossacks in their raid a few days ago,
began to strew the ground thickly, thrown into the ditches
to clear the way, or stretched out naked in the snow in the
fields alongside, and when I rode up the hill to the town the
soldiers were still at work carrying their dead of the day
before to the graves in the cornfield.
The next day, as the enemy still continued to show a bold
front, a strong column was sent around to the north of Sofia,
and General Gourko made a personal reconnaissance in that
direction, approaching within a mile of the city. Great
camps were plainly visible near the road, the black lines of
a dozen earthworks crowned the summits of the hills near
the city on either side, and we could plainly see that the
fortifications were manned. The attack was decided upon
for the morning of the 5th, and I think General Gourko
expected to lose three or four thousand men in the assault,
for although he had so disposed his forces as to attack on
three sides at once, the storming of the earthworks would
have cost many lives. On the 3rd we moved our quarters
again, this time to the establishment of some Turkish nabob
near the covered bridge, and prepared to await the arrival
of the troops at their designated positions ready for the
attack.
I have detaUed our movements in order to show the deliberation
with which we approached the city, and to give an idea of
how little we knew of what was passing almost within
hearing distance of us. The evening of the 3rd there were
some fights visible in the direction of Sofia, but there was
so much haze that we could not distinguish whether they
were camp fires or burning houses. It was an hour after
midday on the 4th that a Cossack came riding in with a
report that Bulgarians had arrived at the foreposts with the
news that Sofia was evacuated. Everybody had been nerving
up for the battle of the next day, and no one could credit
the truth of the rumour. In a few moments a second

326 WAR CORRESPONDENCE*
horseman came in after a hard gallop, bringing official tidings
that General Rauch was marching into Sofia to take posses
sion. We were mounted and off at quick trot almost before
the courier finished his report, and on the road we overtook
a brigade of the guard marching with unfurled banners
towards the distant mosques, singing as I have never heard
them sing since I saw them cross the bridge at Sistova
months ago, every man of them walking as proudly as if
he alone had conquered provinces. They answered the
salutation of the General cheerily and heartily. He paused
only to charge them, with severity of expression in his voice
that they knew meant prompt execution of his word, not to
raise a hand to plunder on pain of severe and instant punish.
ment, and galloped past to the city, already occupied by
Cossacks and the advance guard of the column.
The excitement of that half -hour's ride was worth the days of
exposure in the mountains, the long and tedious season of
waiting ; still I am not sure that, with all the triumphant
feeling, there was not a tinge of disappointment in the
thought that we had not met the enemy, for the game of
hide and seek among the mountains was getting wearisome.
We had missed the opportunity of smashing the Balkan
Army, and it had slipped away to face us further south. As
we neared the town the road was crowded with peasants
hurrying in to have their share of Turkish loot, and scores
of them were rummaging the deserted tents in the fields close
by, and wrangling over the rubbish there.
A crowd of several hundred citizens, led by priests, with
banners, crucifixes, and lanterns, and bearing a salver with
bread and salt, offered these traditional symbols of hospitality
to General Gourko, and then the priests and attendants
headed the procession that filed slowly into the first narrow
street. It was not the pictorial aspect of this triumphant
entrance, nor the consciousness that this was an historic
moment, nor, indeed, the sense of relief at the successful
finish of the first great step of the campaign, that for the
time fixed my thoughts, but it was rather the lack of heart
in the whole business of the reception, the total absence of
anything like frank and spontaneous joy in the crowd of

ATTITUDE OF THE POPULATION. 327
Bulgarians who accompanied us into the town after the
formal welcome at the gate. There were exceptions. Old
men and women clasped their hands and wept for joy ;
intelligent citizens, of evident good standing in the city,
showed by word and deed that they appreciated the change
the arrival of the Russians would make.
I do not mean to say that the people were not unanimous in their
welcome of the Russian army ; I only assert that the contrast
between the reception by the Bulgarians and a similar wel
come by any other people I could name was very great. A
race without heart, their enthusiasm has scarcely a spark of
the real stuff in it, and as we rode through the streets that
day the crowds gathered and gazed and hustled about, and
looked as happy, perhaps, as Bulgarians can look ; but not a
cheer was heard — not even the murmur of gratification that
one hears in the crowd at any fete ; only a weary kind of
listless satisfaction at the final arrival of the long-expected
Russians was visible on the faces of those who welcomed us.
What a contrast there was between the bronzed, sturdy
soldiers of the Guard and the pale and feeble-looking men of
the town ! What a picture it made, General Gourko and
his staff following the banners of the church, and sweeping
along through the crooked streets ; the aides-de-camp in the
fantastic uniforms of the winter campaign ; General Gourko
at their head, trim, straight, and emotionless as ever ; the
hustling crowd of men and boys in many coloured costumes ;
on all sides the fez and the Oriental dress suggesting heat
and sunshine ; and through this flood of colour the cold grey
rigid column of men whose type of face, whose dress, whose
every motion, showed them to be of the north. On the one
side, listlessness and inactivity, mental and physical ; on the
other, earnestness of purpose, energy, and physical strength.
There is little in common between deliverer and delivered,
except some similarity of language.
Few houses on our route were not barred and shuttered, except
those whose swinging doors and broken windows showed
them to be already plundered. Out of the windows of some
large houses were showered sprigs of evergreen from the
hands of young women; there was a lively rush for the

328 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
church, where a short ceremony was performed, and the
triumphal entry was ended. The order in the town was
perfect. A large patrol of soldiers walked the streets,
preventing effectually the destruction of property and pillage.
The Turkish quarter had already been completely sacked by
the Bulgarians before the troops came in, and most of the
loot was hidden away, but whenever any one was found with
plundered effects he was promptly arrested and the goods
exposed in the streets under guard to be claimed by their
proper owners. I made this a matter of special investigation,
and scoured the city in search of plunderers and loot, and
found not a single soldier with any article of value except a
Kuban Cossack with a small carpet. I naturaUy supposed
that this legitimatized brigand would sell his prize, and when
I offered him a round sum for it he replied, without hesitation,
that he had taken it from a Bulgarian peasant, and was
carrying it to deposit with unclaimed goods, and I watched
him throw it on the pile with the rest. One of his comrades,
however, was proved to have stolen watches and money from
foreign doctors, and citizens, and by order of General Gourko
he was tied with ropes and led away and shot.
This is not the first time that I have entered a city with
victorious troops ; but it is the first occasion in my experience
when order was the rule, plunder the exception. To be sure
the shops were all rifled before we came in ; but the Bulgarians
had to be hunted out of the houses on all sides. There was
plenty of clothing and other articles the soldiers were greatly
in need of, which were collected together by the troops, not
distributed among them, and the disorder, if any existed,
was only momentary. The only approach to anything like
violence that met my notice was the knocking the fez from
the heads of the citizens, and in this sport of doubtful taste
I saw some officers thoughtlessly take part.
The church where the religions ceremonies were conducted is
next door to the hospital of Lady Strangford, and this was
the first place General Gourko visited, simply presenting his
compliments to the lady and assuring her that she would' be
protected in her work. Beside Lady Strangford, her four
female nurses, and Dr. Stephenson, the surgeon of the

FLIGHT OF TURKISH INHABITANTS. 329
hospital, there also remained at their posts Doctors Wattie
and Busby of the Stafford House detachment, and Ruddock
and Macpherson of the Red Crescent, with dressers. From
these I learned many interesting details of the evacuation.
The town had been in considerable disorder for several days,
for the Russians were expected to arrive a week earlier, in
fact, the first question put to me by the doctors was, " Why
were you so long on the road ? "
Suleiman Pacha had made a flying visit here about Christmas
time, but no one knew he was here until he was gone. From
the day the road was cut there was no longer any idea of
defending the town, and the troops formed their battalions in
the streets on the evening of the 3rd, and left quietly. The
signal of the evacuation of the troops was also a signal for
the flight of those Turkish families who had not yet departed,
and the clumsy arabas, laden with human beings and house
hold goods, piled in promiscuously, creaked over the frosty
snow toward the line of retreat, which took the direction of
Radomir. There were few enough transports for provisions
and ammunition, so the wounded were ordered to quit the
town the day of the retreat, and such of the poor wretches
who could crawl away left the hospitals and dragged them
selves towards the hills. Terrors inspired by the tales that
the Russians would massacre all their prisoners gave them
strength to begin their journey. Between 5,000 and 6,000
thus fled, the majority of them probably to die in the snow
before the next day.
There were less than a thousand wounded left in the town after
this wholesale evacuation, so the surgeons in the Turkish
service drew lots to decide which ten of their number should
remain. This was a large proportion, as there had been but
about thirty in charge of the thousands here. Among the
ten who remained are one Englishman, one American, and
two or three Germans. It is said on all sides that the order
had been received from Constantinople to burn the town and
blow up the mosques which were stored with powder. I do
not know whether this is true or not, I only am sure that a
printed order was issued to each Bulgarian family to leave
the town, accompanied with the verbal message that they

330 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
took upon themselves the responsibility of remaining. There
was no systematic attempt made, however, to burn the place,
and although the Bashi-Bazouks set it on fire in several
places but few houses were burned. Some of the shops
had been deserted long ago by their proprietors, and the rest
of them were gutted and the loot distributed during the
withdrawal of the troops. Everybody took whatever he
could lay his hands on, the magazines were broken open, and
the Bulgarians all armed themselves and did not hesitate to
use their new toys.
The fears of the wounded Turks were not altogether without
foundation, for during the night many of them were murdered
while the Russians were still miles away, and the same fiends
who cut the throats of the helpless victims welcomed the
next day the Russians with an innocent smile, and caUed
them brothers. Household goods and provisions strewed
the streets, trampled into the snow by the passers-by, and it
was a night of confusion. The Europeans who remained in
the town feared alike Circassian and Cossack, and prepared
to defend themselves against the irregular soldiery. At day
break there was scarcely a Turkish soldier in the town, and
the Bulgarians assembled from the neighbouring villages
completed the desolation that had begun in the night. The
morning passed slowly, and still no Russians in sight. The
English doctors gathered as many of the deserted wounded
as they could care for, and carried them into their hospitals.
Finally, shortly after ten o'clock, a single Russian officer,
accompanied by two Cossacks, rode along the road towards
the town. His first inquiry was, " Have you any sugar ? "
and, being answered in the affirmative, he rode into the town
about as calmly as if he had come solely in search of the
much-desired luxury. It was four hours later before General
Gourko came in, as I have described above, and order was
already restored.
Since we had been hearing all the way down from Plevna
reports of the great numbers of sick and wounded in Sofia,
the hospitals were the first places visited, and the round was
through a succession of charnel-houses. Every Turkish
hospital was in a most foul and filthy condition : unburied

GENERAL GOURKO IN THE HOSPITALS. 331
dead, many days old, cumbered the passage-ways and in
fected the air with unendurable odours, and side by side
with the corpses lay helpless sick and wounded, just as we
found them at Plevna.
General Gourko walked through all these hospitals, entering
rooms where his aides could not force themselves to go,
examining the typhus wards, and passing about among the
corpses with the same immobUity of expression with which
he will ride into hot musketry fire, to satisfy himself per
sonally of the state of affairs. Probably it was quite beyond
the comprehension of the wounded that this arch Giaour,
this leader of dogs and assassins, took enough interest in
their condition to do what their own Pacha never thought
of doing, and when, after the visit of the General, instead of
being murdered, they were cared for, and slowly something
like cleanliness began to be established in the hospital, then
at last they gradually understood they were to be well
treated, and, although one or two went mad with fright
the first day of the occupation, they are now quiet and
contented.
What would have become of them if the foreigners had not
stuck by them I dislike to conjecture. The soldiers had
been on short rations for days, and bread was a necessity for
them. Immense quantities of flour and meat, both salt and
fresh, and other provisions were found in the stores here,
but the public ovens that made bread were too few to supply
the demands of the soldiers ; and no measures were taken to
requisition private ovens ; consequently the bakers who had
furnished the hospitals refused to take any orders from them,
afraid of compromising themselves with the Russians, and
up to the evening of the third day of the occupation the
wounded were without bread. The majority were supplied
with enough food to sustain life out of the private stores of
the doctors : many suffered from hunger ; a few died from
insufficient nourishment, and the Bulgarian attendants
having deserted almost to a man immediately after the
occupation, it was only with great difficulty that the wounds
were dressed. These wretches of attendants took the oppor-
- trinity of robbing the wounded of all their money and

332 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
valuables before they deserted, thus adding one of the most
brutal of crimes to their cowardly desertion, and completing
the list of dastardly acts, which I am obliged, in strict justice,
to enumerate.
On the morning of the fourth day of occupation rations were
distributed to the wounded ; the Russian doctors had already
begun work, and the hospitals were taken in hand. It is
possible that the sufferings of the wounded have been exag
gerated ; but as eighty died in the Konak in a single night
it appears to be proved that they were neglected. The
question of what should be done with the foreigners found
working for the Turks was not settled in a hurry. No one,
in fact, seemed to know what would become of them. Up
to date those who were actually in the Turkish service
serving under contract for the war are still in ignorance of
their fate. Lady Strangford has been treated with every
consideration and respect, and would have been provided
with means of transport if she had decided to return to the
Turkish lines again. She, however, with her entire suite,
will continue her work here, and the surgeons of the Stafford
House and Red Crescent remain also. The value of their
services is fully appreciated by the Russians, who have given
them every possible aid to finish the work they have begun.
Several Turkish surgeons were captured in the pursuit of
the army which evacuated Sofia, and great numbers of
arabas with Turkish refugee families from the villages to
wards Berkovec. They were in a frightful state of misery,
and were immediately sent away to their homes. The
country towards the Salonica Railway is reported to be
filled with refugees ; half of them will be dead before they
return to their villages.
In regard to the movement towards Philippopolis, which is
already begun, I can give Httle information. Ichtiman has
been several days in Russian hands. The Turks sacked and
set fire to the town when they evacuated it, and many of the
inhabitants were massacred. Some of the assassins were
captured by the Russians and promptly hanged. Ichtiman
is fully two-thirds of the way to Vejtrenova, where the plain
of Tatar-Bazardjik begins, but between these towns there is

SUCCESSES OF THE SERVIANS. 333
a more difficult pass than we have yet crossed ; but, as will
be seen on the Austrian map, there are several other roads
equally practicable, and if the enemy hold positions there
they can doubtless be turned, if this is not practically accom
plished already.
General Gourko's army is now so strong that if it were divided
into three detachments either one could neutralize the Turkish
force in this vicinity if it has not received great reinforcements.
Therefore, serious obstacles to his eastward march are not to
be apprehended. Moreover, the troops are in excellent health
and spirits, and endure the cold wonderfully. The weather,
which has been very cold — the thermometer falling almost
every night as low as five degrees below zero — has changed
to-day ; the sun is shining warm and bright, and there is
every prospect of a thaw. The winter has been thus far
most favourable to the campaign, and a few days of soft
weather would hinder materially the advance ; but there are
enough captured provisions to supply the army for a
month ; so there is no longer any anxiety about transports,
which are, however, fast coming up. The rich villages in
the line of march will furnish plenty of forage and shelter,
with unlimited quantities of sheep and cattle.
The capture of Pirot by the Servians, and the near approach of
the advanced guard of Prince Milan's army to the Russian
lines, decided General Gourko to open communications with
them, and Prince Tzereteleff, escorted by a sotnia of Cossacks,
rode 'to meet the Servian army the night preceding the occu
pation of Sofia. He has just returned, and gives a most
flattering account of the condition of the troops, their conduct,
and general spirits. He found the main body of the detach
ment, the Timok Corps, under the command of Colonel
Horvatovitch, still at Pirot, but about to move southward
upon Radomir. The capture of Pirot had been attended
with little or no disorder; the Turkish property had been
confiscated, and the army was now living on captured
provisions, and had plenty for a number of weeks. Pirot
was taken after a fight of a whole day, with the loss of
250 men ; twelve cannon were captured. The assassination
of Colonel Horvatovitch was attempted while he was making

334 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
his triumphal entry into the town., but failed. The Cossacks
returned delighted with their visit to their cousins, for they
could understand their language, and received unlimited
hospitality. The understanding was that the Servians were
to garrison Sofia, but this is not the fact. The Servian
soldiers have already made their appearance in the streets
here, but the main force will move southward vid Radomir,
The Bulgarian volunteers who have been parading here have
been sent to join the Servians.
From the troops in pursuit of the column of Turks retreating
from Baba Konak, we learned the other day that Lieutenant-
General Katarli, commanding the third divison of the Guard,
had been killed, and General Philosof wounded, in a slight
skirmish near Bunovo. The report that reaches us now is that
the detachment was passing through a deep ravine, and these
generals, with aides-de-camp, were riding along about 400
yards in rear of the advance guard, without having taken
the precaution to throw out skirmishers on either side the
road. Suddenly a volley of musketry came from the right
side among the rooks, and the two generals, with four
Cossacks, fell. Philosof has since died. The Bulgarians
in Petricevo report that the Pachas were jubilant over the
affair, and the death of General Gourko, for it was believed
to be he, was telegraphed to Constantinople.

PHILIPPOPOLIS. 335

CHAPTER XII.

THE ADVANCE TO PHILIPPOPOLIS.
View of the Campaign in Roumelia. — General Gourko's Great Achievement. — A
Leap in the Dark. — Again on the March — Prospect of Peace. — A Bivouac in
the Snow. — Tactics of the Turkish Retreat on Adrianople. — Unpleasant
Position of Fuad Pacha and his Army. — Trajan's Gate. — Capture of 300
Waggons. — In Sight of Philippopolis. — Baker Pacha's Division. — Exhaustion
on both Sides. — The Battle near Philippopolis. — More Fighting. — Forlorn
State of Philippopolis. — Capture of Forty Krupp Guns. — Suleiman Pacha's
Difficulties. — Recapitulation of Three Weeks' Work. — Philippopolis. —
Fuller Details of the Recent Operations. — The Departure from So6a. — A
Change of Temperature. — Report of an Armistice. — Condition of Ichtiman. —
Retreat of the Turks. — The Fall of Shipka. — Passage through Trajan's Gate. —
A Series of Slides. — Strange-looking Houses. — A Relief to the Eye. — Burning
and Plunder of Tartar Bazardjik. —Multitude of Fugitives. — A Priest's
Discovery. — Passage of the River Maritza. — Close Pursuit. — Count Schou
valoff s Movement. — Daring of a Circassian. — A Sharp Engagement. — General
Schildner-Schuldner. — Krudener's Detachment. — General Gourko's Order. —
Adventures of Captain Bourago and his Little Band in Quest of Lodgings. —
Entry into Philippopolis. — Condition of Affairs in the City. — Scene at the
Ford. — Prince Tzereteleff. — Relief for the Suffering. — Beyond the City. — The
Turks at Bay. — Three Days of Fighting. — -Homeric Heroism. — Precipitate
Flight.— Break Up of the Turkish Army.
The marveUously rapid pursuit of the Turkish forces to Philip
popolis by the army of General Gourko, furnishes the theme of
the letters in the present chapter. The movement, it will be
remembered, ended in the disorderly flight of the Turks, after a
final gallant stand on the eastern side of that city : —
+ Philippopolis, January 18th. — The march of the entire army
of General Gourko from Sofia to Philippopolis in the short
space of six days — crossing the Great Balkan range in severe
winter weather, driving the scattered forces of Sulieman
Pacha before it in every direction, ocoupying the city after a

336 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
series of bloody engagements — is one of the most brilliant
feats of the war.
Although the dispositions of the troops were known at the date
of my despatch from Sofia,, it was evidently imprudent to
speak of them, because we expected a stout resistance at four
points in the mountains, namely, north of Samakova, at
Trajan's Gate beyond Ichtiman, in the valley of the river
Topolnica below Petricevo, and at Otlukkoi. General Gourko
divided his force into four detachments. The column
on the right, which started from Sofia the 7th of the
month, was under command of General Weliaminoff, and
was instructed to advance rapidly upon Samakova, in order to
cut off the retreat of the Turks who left Sofia via Eadomir.
The main column, commanded by Count Schouvaloff, marched
from Sofia on the morning of the 9th by the Ichtiman road,
and was expected to advance upon Tartar Bazardjik only after
the Turkish positions in the Trajan's Gate had been rendered
untenable by the forward movement of the flanking columns
east of the Ichtiman road. The detachment of General
Schilden-Schuldner was to follow the river Topolnica; and
on the extreme left a strong column, led by General Krudener
was ordered to proceed by way of Otlukoi, following the line
of retreat of Chakir Pacha's army from Kamarli, uniting
with the other columns before Tatar Bazardjik. The small
detachment under Count Komaroffsky, which had occupied
Slatica, was to proceed to join the column of General Karzoff,
to which it belonged, and which was advancing, via Karlovo,
to complete the connection with the army which crossed the
Shipka Pass.
The success of this complex movement depended entirely on the
timely arrival of the separate columns at their destinations,
and as the weather gave signs of broaking up, and the com
munications were at the best extremely difficult and uncertain,
it seemed very much like a leap in the dark to cut loose from
the base of supplies and strike away into the heart of the
great range of white peaks that formed a serrated wall along
the southern horizon. Six day's rations of hard bread were
distributed to the soldiers, who, though somewhat recovered-
from the exhausting labours of the first passage, were still far

PROPOSED ARMISTICE. 337
from fresh. Every piece of artillery had a double quota of
horses. The limbers and caissons w,ere piled up with extra
ammunition, and the columns went away as merrily as if they
were on the homeward trip. General Gourko and. staff
accompanied the main column, but did not leave Sofia until
noon on the 9th.
The sun was shining warm and bright, the road was flooded with
water, and there was every prospect of a complete thaw, as
we rode along that afternoon past hundreds of pack-horses and
ox-carts that toiled in the train of the marching infantry.
Before we reached the mountains the thermometer suddenly
feU below freezing point, a driving snowstorm burst upon us,
and at sunset we could scarcely see the road before us.
While we were fighting our way along, a courier came up, bring
ing the news that a parliamentaire had come into the lines of
General Weliaminoff, bringing a telegram from the Minister
of War at Constantinople that an armistice had been accepted
by the Eussians, and that peace was imminent. General
Gourko sent a telegram to the Grand Duke announcing the
fact, and we pushed on, forgetting the snow and the cold in
the exhiliration of the moment, discussing the probabilities of
peace, and congratulating ourselves on the approach of the
end which we all felt sure was close at hand. The proposition
of an armistice was additional proof that the enemy had lost
heart.
The village of Vakarel on the road was burned. We found
miserable shelter from the storm in a small village near, but
the infantry was obliged to bivouac in the snow by the road
side. In the morning everything was frozen solid, the road
was one sheet of ice, a strong wind was blowing, and as we
rode through the bivouacs before daybreak and found the
soldiers huddled together around the fires, half-buried in the
drifting snow, it seemed impossible for human beings to live
in the extreme cold, without even the protection of shelter
tents.
At, Ichtiman we received the most gratifying report that the
Turks had evacuated their positions in the Trajan's Gate, and
that Samakova was also in our hands, and the appearance of
Major Zeki, an aide-de-camp of Sulieman Pacha, who had
VOL. II. z

338 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
come into the lines with a message for the Grand Duke,
seemed a confirmation of the news of the preceding evening.
However, during the day a despatch from head-quarters arrived
with instructions to continue the advance, notwithstanding
the reports of an armistice, and the cavaHy pushed on over
the Pass, and occupied Vejtrenova. No reports reached us
from Banja, whither it was supposed that Weliaminoff's
column was driving the enemy, but we hurried on the morn
ing of the 11th over the Pass known as the Trajan's Gate to
Vejtrenova, arriving just in time to see the black lines of the
Turkish column filing along the road near Simcina.
The situation of the Turks was now comprehensible. The plan
of retreat arranged by Sulieman Pacha was to withdraw the
forces from Samakova and Ichtiman in sufficient time to con
centrate them at Tatar-Bazardjik, and foUow the army of
Chakir Pacha to Adrianople. The plan evidently counted on
a delay of some days on account of the reported armistice,
for the Samakova detachment under Fuad Pacha had a longer
and more difficult road than the Bussians to Tatar Bazardjik,
and not a day the start of them. Thus, when this stratagem
failed, the Samakova force found itself obliged to march day
and night in order to debouch into the plain before its pur
suers. Fuad Pacha had perhaps 25,000 men in all, and he
manoeuvred with no little skill.
It was indeed an uncomfortable position to be in, retreating
shoulder to shoulder with the advance of the pursuers,
threatened constantly in the rear, in battle array from sunrise
till dark, and marching all night. It would have tried the
pluck and endurance of any army. Fuad, by placing the
Maritza between him and the Russians, which he did at the
first opportunity protected his line of march, to- some
¦extent, and although there was no road on the south side of
the river so good as the high road, he moved with great
rapidity, especially after he lost the bulk of his waggon
train.
Of course the detachment that occupied Trajan's Gate had
plenty of time to get away, and the army of Chakir Pacha
had passed through Otlukkoi a week ago, so that the Samakova
force was menaced with complete isolation from the rest of

FORCING OF TRAJAN'S GATE. 339
the army, and they retreated with the celerity that their
situation demanded. Trajan's Gate, a pass of great height,
and difficult even in summer, was a solid sheet of ice when
we crossed. The smoothshod horses fell at every second step,
the infantry moved only with the greatest difficulty, and was
obliged to bivouac in the mountains because the road was
blocked by cannon which were slid down the steep places
with great risk and toil, and we had the doubtful satisfaction
of watching from Vejtrenova the rearguard of the Turkish
army disappear on its way towards Tatar-Bazardjik, unable
to pursue it, because the infantry did not get over the pass.
Nevertheless, during the night the Moscow regiment captured
a train of nearly 300 waggons and dispersed three battalions
of the enemy.
Next day, New Year's Day, old style, the- four columns joined
in the vicinity of Tatar-Bazardjik, the detachment Weliam-
inoff being somewhat behind its assigned position, having
delayed one day on account of the rumoured armistice.
Tatar-Bazardjik was already on fire in several places as we
came in sight of it from the Pass, and as we reached the
summit of the last hill bordering the great plain of Philip
popolis early in the morning, nine distinct columns of smoke
were rising from the town. Half a dozen battalions of the
enemy, Baker Pacha's division, were drawn up across the
road a mile in front of the town with two lines of skirmishers
and a strong rearguard of cavaHy posted on the road, and a
large detachment on the right and left. Evidently nothing
was to be gained by attacking them, for they were manoeuv
ring to cover their retreat, which we hoped to block the next
day, so there was only a little artillery practice and slight
skirmish between the outposts.
The next morning we rode through Tatar-Bazardjik, completely
pillaged and half burned, with scarcely an inhabitant left,
and pushed on until sunset. We were then opposite the rear
of the Turkish column, separated from it by the River
Maritza, fordable only at long distances. The line of march
of both armies was parallel, the one hurrying along the
railway to reach Philippopolis, the other pushing forward on.
the road to head off the retreat. The troops on both sides
z 2

340 WAR CORRESPONDENCE!.
were nearly exhausted ; but there was this notable difference :;
between them — the Turkish stragglers were almost always
cut off, while the Russians, after a rest of a few hours in
some village, rejoined their regiments ; and while the
Turkish force was gradually dribbling away, the Russian
columns kept full.
Part of Schouvaloff's detachment, after a march of thirty miles
without halt, forded the river on the evening of the 13th,
with the thermometer at zero, and pushed on rapidly after the
Turks, who were still running, but finding them too strong to
risk an attack with the small force across the river, the
detachment was quartered in the village. At daybreak|
Count Schouvaloff, with a dozen battalions, found himself ,
within 1,500 yards of the enemy, who were so worn out that
they had been unable to retreat further, and he began a
demonstration to delay, if possible, further retreat until
General Schilden-Schuldner's brigade could ford the Maritza
near Philippopolis, and turn their right.
It will be evident that Schouvaloff's column, which was expected:
to be the last in order of the four, was really the first, and on
this devolved the duty of arresting the retreat of the enemy,
while this role was to have been filled by Weliaminoff's
detachment. The Turks, some forty battalions strong,
occupied a position across the radway, their left resting on
the village of Kavatair, their right on the village of Airanli, ,
and their centre on a small mountain behind Kadikoi, and j
Schouvaloff's demonstration was made against their left andl
centre. The fight lasted all day long, and as the rice fields j
afforded little shelter the losses were considerable on both1
sides, the Russians counting over 300. While this affair was
going on, the column of General Kriidener marched along
the road towards Philippopolis, while Schilden-Schuldner]
was ordered to push on to turn the enemy's right.
At sunrise on the day of the battle General Gourko and hisi
staff were on the road at the point where it is nearest the '
river. The road was crowded with artillery, infantry) and
pack-horses, when suddenly the right of the Turkish force
appeared within rifle range on the other side the streami
Three battalions were immediately sent across the river, parjj

CAPTAIN BOURAGO'S SQUADRON. 341
wading, part carried on the horses of the staff officers and
'. escort, and soon the firing which had already begun on the
right spread along to our neighbourhood. Batteries unlim-
bered right and left of us, and went to work. Turkish shell
began to burst near the road, and bullets dropped on all sides,
wounding men and horses. Fortunately we were sheltered
somewhat by a small mound of earth, and there we stood all
day, the battle raging without intermission.
For hours we watched for the advance guard of Schilden-
Schuldner's column, which had long been ordered up, but it
did not come along until late in the afternoon, having halted
in a village while the General rode slowly up to consult with
General Gourko. Thus the turning movement failed, for the
men did not get across the ford until sunset, and during the
night the enemy quietly slipped past Schilden-Schuldner
between him and the mountains, and took new positions
between Stanimaka and Derbendere. Kriiclener's detachment
during the day occupied that part of Philippopolis north of
the Maritza, but the bridge was burned, and no attempt
was made to ford the stream. A couple of cannon in posi
tion on the rocky height in the centre of the town shelled
Kriidener's force the whole day, inflicting only trifling
loss.
During the evening the squadron of eighty Dragoons of the
Guard which had carried the advance battalions of Schilden-
Schuldner across the river, led by Captain Bourago, raided
into the city and found it evacuated, but a force of the
enemy, probably 1,500, assembled in some disorder near the
railway station, which was burning. Dismounting, and
leaving their horses in shelter, this small company advanced
quietly along the road to the station, and finding cover in a
ditch within short range of the Turks, opened fire on them
suddenly, cheering and making all the noise possible. The
Turks at first returned the fire vigorously, but soon retired,
evidently believing they were attacked by a large force, and
the city was left in possession of Captain Bourago and his
small squadron
-Early in the forenoon of the 16th, when we rode out upon the
left bank of the Maritza, opposite the city, a whole army

'342 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
corps was waiting there by the burned bridge, while an
immense crowd of Bulgarians was gathered on the further
shore, shouting and gesticulating that the river was too deep
to ford at that place. The bridge was completely destroyed,
and no one seemed to have been master enough of the
situation to look for a fording-place or arrange a ferry. :
Prince Tzereteleff crossed in a small boat immediately after
the arrival of General Gourko, and in a few moments a rope
ferry was rigged. Several natives were ferried across to
point out the fords, and in an hour General Gourko and his
staff entered the town. There was no ceremonious welcome,
merely a service in the church.
General Gourko took up his quarters in the Russian Consulate,
The officers found luxurious lodgings in the houses of the
chief citizens of the town. Good order was the rule, and
although the cannon were still roaring on the mountain sides
south of the city, we forgot everything in the enjoyment of the
first hours of comfort since Sofia. All the night of the 16th
and the whole of the following day the battle went on in the
mountain. When Fuad had withdrawn his force through the
narrow gap left between Schouvaloff and the mountains he
took up position a few miles south of Phdippopolis in the
vineyards, obliged to defend himself from Weliaminoff, who
began to hammer away at the rear guard, and also compelled
to face Schouvaloff and Schilden-Schuldner, who threatened
his advance.
How many thousands of the Turkish force had been placed
hors de combat, captured, dispersed, or had escaped to Sulei
man Pacha, it is difficult to say, but when they made their
stand in the mountains with their backs toward the snow-
covered slopes they counted not more than 15,000 men.
General DondeviUe, with the third division of the Guard,
forded the Maritza below Philippopolis, marched up the
Stanimka road, that by which Suleiman with a reported force
of 30,000 to 40,000 men had escaped, occupied the town, and
thus completed the semicircle of 30,000 Russians around
half the number of Turks. The latter had lost all their
baggage, had open to them no way of retreat for their artil
lery, were without food and probably short of ammunition) \

FUAD PACHA. 343
and had been marching and fighting for the last week, day
and night ; but once at bay they fought like lions.
On the morning of the 17th they charged down the slope with
the bayonet in a mad endeavour to recapture the eighteen
cannon left in Dondeville's hands the day before. One of
the commanders, generaUy believed to be Fuad himself,
rushed into the thick of the fight with Dondeville's troops,
was surrounded, and is reported to have killed and wounded
seventeen Russians with his own sword before he was finally
cut down. But this headlong assault was stoutly resisted,
General Krasnoff especially distinguishing himself at the
head of the brigade of the third division, and that day
twelve additional cannon were abandoned by the Turks as
they retreated sullenly from one terrace to another; and
when, after a most heroic but hopeless resistance, the
disorganized, exhausted, famished, half-frozen remnant of
an army could hold a bold front no longer, it broke up into
small bands, and under cover of darkness dispersed back in
the mountains, leaving the remaining twenty cannon on the
field.
After nine days' marching, with three successive days' fighting
in severe weather, all this on six days' rations of hard bread,
, the Russian troops were unable to continue the pursuit, and
must now rest for some days. The total loss is about 1,000.
The prisoners amount to over that number. Fifty-six
cannon have been taken, and a great army completely broken
up, smashed entirely to pieces. It is possible that the
majority of the routed force will try and find its way to
Adrianople, following the river Arda, but the road may be
cut long before they come out into the valley of the
Maritza.
Meantime, we hear very little of the movements of the other
armies. Part of the Shipka force made a detour by way of
Cirpan, not knowing that Gourko was so near Philippopolis
and has now swung to the eastward again. Three days ago
there was a small fight at Tirnova, the junction of the Yam-
boli radway. The place was occupied at the date of this
despatch. A large force of cavalry under General Skobeleff,
the elder, is supposed to be near Haskioi, and Hermanli must

344 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
be occupied before this. It is not likely that Gourko's force
will form the reserve of the armies marching upon Adri
anople. A much more congenial duty would be to act as a
flanking column against the latter city, crossing the range of
mountains south-east of Philippopolis, which is probably the
part it will play in the campaign. The prospect of the
passage of the third mountain range is not agreeable.
Philippopolis has suffered both from fire and the yataghan, and
although the order in the town is to aU appearance perfect
there are still occasional murders. The Bulgarians are all
armed, the majority with improved rifles, which they seek
occasion to use, for there are men enough of the Bashi-
Bazouk order among them. Although no special cases have
come under my notice, I do not doubt that the soldiers have
plundered to some extent and that unarmed Turks have been
killed, and also I must make the same observation that I did
at Sofia, that there is very little system in the regulation
of affairs in Philippopolis ; but as the gaUows which orna
mented many street corners have been taken down only
within a day or two, having been in use since last summer,
it is no wonder that the Bulgarians are tempted to easy
revenge.
We entered the city when the bazaar was already burned,
and all the shops in its vicinity gutted, and the goods
scattered in the street or carried away. That portion of the
city near the bridge on both banks of the river has been
partially burned. The Turkish quarter is entirely deserted,
but the rest of the city wears very much its usual aspect.
To-day several shops have been opened. Prices have quad
rupled at once, as they did in Sofia, and the few merchants
who have been so fortunate as to save their stock are in a
fair way to become millionaires. The great fear of the
inhabitants now is, not that the Turkish army will return,
but that the Moslem population in the mountains between
here and the sea, which is notoriously vindictive, will take
advantage of the absence of the Russians to revenge them
selves for the capture of the city. A strong force of occu
pation will be left, however, and Httle danger from unor
ganized depredation is to be anticipated.

CAPTURE OF KRUPP GUNS. 345
January 19th (Midnight). — The departure of my couri'er
having been delayed on account of the insecurity of the
roads, I am able to give an account of the capture of forty
additional Krupp guns by the detachment under General
Skobeleff the elder. The force of Suleiman Pacha when it
left this city on the evening of the 15th took the road to
Stanimaka, thence proceeded toward Hermanli by the
mountain road south of the main highway to Haskioi, where
the route is indicated on the Austrian map by a spotted line.
Prisoners report that he had the larger portion of his infantry
in front, followed by his artillery, with a rear-guard of five
battalions. The road over the watershed was so difficult that
the artillery was delayed for a long time there. Meanwhile
six squadrons of Skobeleff's cavalry came up, and finding the
enemy in a blocked road charged upon them, routing the rear
guard, and capturing the cannon, forty in number.
It is doubtless the endeavour of Suleiman to reach Adrianople,
but he will have to travel fast in order to get ahead of the
Russians, for Skobeleff the younger was at Tirnova, the
junction of the Philippopolis and Yamboli Railway, on the
17th. While Suleiman must now make his way towards
Adrianople through the mountains the whole distance, Sko
beleff's force has a good road along the valley of the Maritza.
The loss of Suleiman's artillery will also greatly diminish the
effectiveness of his army if he reaches Adrianople, for it is
said to be guns that are needed in the extensive fortifications
there, even more than men, and the loss of upwards of 200
cannon within a month on this side of the Balkans cannot be
counterbalanced by even the most desperate resistance.
To sum up the work of the past three weeks accomplished by
General Gourko's command : it has forced two great Balkan
passes ; occupied Sofia and Philippopolis ; entirely smashed
the whole Turkish army of this department, reinforced by
twenty battalions from the Rasgrad army, with the exception
of a few thousand men who are accompanying Suleiman
Pacha ; taken thirteen guns at Araba Konak, four at Sofia,
and ninety-four Krupps and three muzzle-loaders near Philip
popolis, and all this with a probable loss of 1,500 men, all
told.

346 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Of course we hear plenty of rumours of peace, but the first
official news of anything like negotiations has come from
head-quarters to-day, where two Ministers arrived from Con
stantinople. Long before this despatch reaches the Danube
we shall be far on the way towards Adrianople, and some
where in the vicinity of that city I expect to date my next
letter. The next letter from the same Correspondent reviews in
fuller detail the recent operations of General Gourko. Although
it necessarily embraces incidents already described, it comprises
much that is not mentioned in the previous letter, written with
a view to transmission by telegraph ; hence it forms a sup
plement to the preceding narrative, which may be read with
advantage by those who are anxious to obtain a complete view
of the most decisive movement of the war.
+ Philippopolis, January 18th. — If I were to write on the sub
ject which at the present moment interests me the most, this
letter would be an essay on the luxury of a bed, for it is
three months, almost to a day, since I have slept in civilized
fashion. The trenches at Plevna, the snow banks in the
Balkans, and peasants' huts all over the country have fur
nished lodgings of every possible grade of discomfort during
the short season. Sofia was rich in baths and all articles of
diet, but even there beds and stoves were not to be found,
and we only encamped in the houses there as we had done in
the mud cabins in the villages, and were only in a degree
more comfortable.
But Philippopolis gives us everything, from the smallest article
of table furniture to spacious rooms and luxurious beds, and
with the straws from the last bivouac still clinging to our
clothing we walk about like princes in the frescoed halls,
actually sit in easy chairs and feel our feet press soft rugs,
and are for once during these weeks of cold weather free from
numb hands and aching feet.
It hardly seems possible, even as I write it, that since we started
across the Balkans, with the exception of four days at Sofia,

COMFORTLESS QUARTERS. 347
we have never on a single occasion found quarters that could
be called comfortable, rarely anything more than a shelter
from the storm in windowless rooms or miserable sheds. ,
General Gourko never gives those who are with him time
enough to think of anything except the movements of the
troops, for he is generally up and in the saddle before day
break, and seldom reaches his quarters before dark. His
energy and activity have no limits, and his endurance is
simply wonderful. When every other officer is bundled up
into a shapeless mass with furs and mufflers, he rides along
in his tight-fitting blue surtout as if it were a pleasant
autumn day. When every one is worn out he is as fresh as
ever ; when all are asleep, he is awake ; in moments of the
greatest excitement for every one else, he is calm and emotion
less, and when the time comes to be merry he can join in a
laugh with the rest. Not to discuss his merits as a com
manding general, for I believe they are eloquent enough to
need no defence, I can say that as a man and a soldier he has
the hearty esteem of all who are intimate enough with him
to understand him, and possesses the entire confidence of his
officers and soldiers to the very last man.
The days I have passed in the suite of General Gourko are so
crowded with incidents and adventure that weeks seem as
months, while the days, as they pass, seem always too short
for the work we have on hand. It may be said of him, as
may be remarked with truth of only one or two other Generals
in the Russian army, that he does not drink tea, — that is,
always in the Russian sense, where tea drinking means wasting
the best hours of the day in listless inactivity over glasses of
the refreshing beverage. This is a habit which no one in the
suite of General Gourko is likely to contract. We consider
ourselves pretty fortunate if we manage to have time in the
morning to drink a hasty glass of tea before the General is
leading the way to the front, for if there is any front he is
sure to be there early, and he is as reluctant to leave the
positions as he is anxious to get there in the beginning. I
doubt much if any other general would have led an army
across the Balkans as successfully as he has done, for the
success of the undertaking is due more to his personal energy

348 .WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and activity than to anything else, as the history of the
movements of the different detachments proves. The column
which General Gourko accompanies always arrives in time,
and always accomplishes the work laid out for it.
A warm south wind tempted us towards its source as we rode
out of Sofia at midday, a week ago. The air was as balmy as
in the Bay of Naples ; the snow melted rapidly, and the road
was covered at intervals with great pools of water from the
overflowing streams. On we rode, as if on a pleasure ex
cursion, along the southern border of the valley, towards the
white peaks in the south-east, past regiment after regiment of
infantry laden down with sacks of hard bread as large as a
bushel, many of the soldiers with Turkish shoes in the place
of the boots ruined in the dimb among the trees and rocks
of the first Balkan range, nearly all with some small valueless
souvenir of their visit to Sofia ; on through droves of bullocks,
between double rows of cannon piled up with hay and grain
and boxes of spare ammunition ; past hundreds of pack horses
with the baggage of the officers, to the first low hills of the
northern slopes. Many of us, believing in the promise of a
thaw, had left furs and extra wraps with the baggage.
No one foretold the sudden change in temperature that was
sprung upon us, and within the space of a very few moments
after reaching the hills we had left the zone of warmth and
sunshine, and were in a stratum of freezing air. A blinding
snowstorm came driving on from the west, and at sunset
we were toiling up the first steep slopes of the mountains
half- frozen, quite forlorn and out of temper ; for it was evident
that we should have at the best only a cold and miserable
shelter that night. Just the needful stimulant come to us at
the right moment, for a Cossack came trotting up through the
snow and handed General Gourko a despatch, which told how
the Turks had sent a parlementaire with the assurance of an
armistice arranged between the two nations, and how peace
was imminent. After this item of startling news we were
able to bear cheerfully even the temporary loss of our baggage
with our rugs and overcoats, as well as the eatables, and we
went to sleep in a tireless room with frozen garments, quite
happy at the first hint of peace. The horses huddled together

ICHTIMAN. 349
and shivered all night, and when we mounted an hour before
dayHght the poor beasts were glad enough to warm them
selves with the exercise.
It was a weirdly picturesque scene the long file of horsemen
winding over the bleak white hills in the dim light, an icy
wind driving clouds of snow from the feet of the horses, the
procession moving on without a word or a gesture. We came
unexpectedly and unannounced upon the bivouac of the
infantry around the burned viilage of Vakarel. The men
were nestled together behind banks of earth and snow around
great blazing fires, many of them asleep, some wandering
about among the fires. The presence of the General called
all to their feet, and they answered his salutation as cheerily
as if they were on the parade ground. The cannon left in
the road were haH buried in great drifts, and the guard,
pacing rapidly his short beat, could not keep his path open
in the whirling snow. The morning was cold and raw, and
a dreary grey sky made the landscape seem doubly bleak and
uninviting, and we followed the winding road, now slippery
and blown clear of snow, down into the little basin where
Ichtiman lay in the centre of a circle of pure white, broken
only by the narrow dark line of the road, and dark spots on the
mountain flanks where the little villages stand. Directly
south was a precipitous wall of mountains, over which it
seemed quite impossible to pass, and as far as we could see
peak was piled upon peak.
Pillaged shops, smouldering ruins, and empty houses welcomed
us to Ichtiman. Many of the largest buildings had been
burned by the Turks, not a shop but was sacked and gutted,
. and very few of the inhabitants remained. Here we learned,
much to our surprise, that the Turks had evacuated their
positions in the Pass called Trajan's Gate, and were retreating
southward pursued by the dragoons ; also, that Weliaminoff's
column had been fighting for a whole day north of Samakoff,
driving the enemy from one little earthwork to another until
he was stopped by the arrival of a messenger from the
Turkish lines with the despatch from Constantinople about
the armistice. The Turkish outposts had refused to fire, the
men had approached and shaken hands with them, and the

350 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Turks had called them brothers, believing that peace was
declared.
Such was our confirmation of the report of the armistice, and
it was further strengthened by the appearance of Major Zeki,
the chief of staff of Suleiman Pacha, who had come with a
sealed despatch addressed to the Grand Duke, declaring also
that an armistice had been agreed upon. General Weliami-
noff had replied to the Turkish proposition for cessation of
hostilities — " If you don't want to fight, leave Samakoff ; for
my men can't stay up here in the mountains," and the Turks
quietly went away. The Russian field telegraph has been in
use during the whole war only between points which have
long been occupied, and never has been of the slightest
service for the speedy transmission of messages from the
front.
Although the Baba Konak Pass had been open ten days, the
telegraph station still remained at Orkanieh, and from there,
even before the messenger whom General Gourko had sent
with the despatch about the armistice could have arrived, a
courier came in with a message from the Grand Duke, saying
that there were false rumours of an armistice, but that the
army was to push on as rapidly as possible. The history of the
fall of Shipka had been told us as we mounted in the early
morning, and we had fertile subjects of conversation all day
long ; but after all that was said about armistice and peace
there was to be no halt in the movement. It was rather an
odd sight, the two Turkish dragoons who escorted Major
Zeki, with their Winchester rifles slung on their backs,
fraternizing with the Cossacks ; and it puzzled the few Bul
garian spectators to see a Turkish bimbashi in full uniform,
with his sword on, on easy terms with the Russian officers.
We invited Major Zeki to dine in our mess, and we had a
very jolly evening.
He had the frankness to say when he was served with plain
boiled rice after the cabbage soup — " I had imagined the
officers of the Russian army lived in much greater luxury."
Some one replied — " It is only by your kindness in leaving
plenty of stores behind you that we have even these pro
visions."

A SCRAMBLE. 351
This was his first experience among the Russians, and I dare
say from this little incident he understands what it was
to .be with a great army cut loose from its base of supplies,
and began to understand the happy-go-lucky way the Russians
have of doing everything.
A day or two later Major Zeki, who gained many friends from
his sympathetic disposition and pleasant manner, received
instructions from the Grand Duke to present the despatch,
the contents of which had already been transmitted by
wire, in person at the head-quarters in Kezanlik, whither
he went with his two dragoons, escorted by an officer of
the staff and two Cossacks, doubtless to the complete mys
tification of the people they met on the road. One thing
Major Zeki remarked with a great deal of justice, that the
Bulgarians treat the Russians with actual disrespect, and
pay no regard whatever to their requests or demands, while
to the Turks they are all attention. It was curious to
observe how the natives sprang to wait upon the Turkish
officer, even while he was in company with the Russians.
We Hterally scrambled aU the way over the Trajan's Gate.
The road which mounts the northern declivity in a suc
cession of steep zig-zags was as smooth as a skating-rink.
It was filled with infantry and artillery. Men slipped and
slid, horses feU with their riders, the heavy caissons swung
from one side of the road to the other, often in imminent
danger of dragging the horses over the precipices. From
the summit of the Pass the view is very wide, embracing
the valleys of Ichtiman and Banja on one side, and a large
portion of the Rhodope range of mountains to the south
beyond the plain of Philippopolis.
I only remember the descent as a series of dangerous slides,
and I was so much occupied with looking out for my own
safety that I could pay no attention to the landscape. Occa
sionally the horses would slide for many yards, only bringing
up against the bank oh the side of the road or among the
bushes. The limited supply of iron had obUged most of us
to have the smooth flat plates used by the Turks put on
instead of the European shoes, so our horses skated, awk
wardly enough, wherever the ice was smooth. The cannon,

352 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
which were hauled up by a double force of horses, were slid
down with only the pole horses attached, and to increase the
friction of the chained wheels, the soldiers attached to them
rude shoes made out of bundles of large telegraph wire.
But with every precaution against too great momentum,
whenever one of the pieces came down a slope it carried
everything before it. I heard of no accidents, but I do not
see how they were avoided, for the heavy cannon and caissons
were next to unmanageable in the icy path, and there were
many narrow escapes that came under my notice. It was
certainly a great relief when we came to the last declivity,
for this was nearly free from ice ; the whole landscape had
indeed changed from an unbroken white to greyish-brown,
for in, the plain below and all over the southern slopes there
were frequent patches of bare ground, and there had been
evidently very much less snow in the district than north of
the range.
As we rode through the village of Vejtrenova we came upon a
collection of strange-looking houses, decidedly out of keep
ing with the surroundings, for they were at first sight quite
foreign — I may say even American in aspect. Neatly con
structed of planks unpainted, but with some little attempt
at ornamentation, they are as far out of character with the
rest of the architecture as a silk hat would be among the
sheepskin caps of the natives. Still they looked invitingly
clean, although not promising great warmth in comparison
with mud walls and thatched roofs, and if they had not been
well filled, I think we should have chosen our quarters there
without hesitation. These are the houses which were built
a year ago by the Rev. Dr. Long from funds subscribed in
England and America to provide temporary shelter for those
Bulgarian families whose houses were burned by the Turks,
and they appear to serve their purpose very well indeed.
What a relief to the eye was the great valley after the narrow
limits of a mountain horizon ! From Vejtrenova the plain of
Philippopolis stretched out invitingly before us far away
eastward into the hazy distance, a broad open path between
the irregular peaks of the lesser Balkans on the north, and
the impassable heights of the great Rhodope range that cut

THE RUSSIAN NEW YEAR'S EVE. 353
out sharply with its snow-covered summits against the
mild blue sky in the south. The road led away a straight
black line over low hills at the base of the mountains
toward the broad dark patch in the distance, whence rose
straight into the still air three majestic columns of dark
smoke.
The conflagration of Tatar-Bazardjik had begun. We had
anxiously studied the village of Banja from the top of the
Pass to find out, if possible, whether the retreating Turks
had passed through it or not, but we could see no movement
there, and were consequently not very much surprised to
discover a black line of troops moving rapidly along the
Simcina road towards Tatar-Bazardjik. No infantry had
come up, we were in fact at the very outposts, so it was out
of the question to attempt immediate pursuit, and we cele
brated in rather a mUd manner, for the material means of
merrymaking were decidedly meagre, the Russian New
Year's Eve. A distinguishing feature of the celebration was
a mass conducted in General Gourko's headquarters by the
priest of one of the regiments, the staff officers contributing
the vocal music and sonorous responses. It was clear and
frosty, and until long after midnight the cannon rattled and
jolted heavily down the rough street, and the infantry
tramped wearily past to find but Httle better halting-places
in the plain than those who were obliged to bivouac away
up the road in the Pass.
About half-way from Vejtrenova to Tatar-Bazardjik, the high
way crosses a low hill, the last notable interruption of the
level line of the road for many miles eastward, and this hill
terminates in a rocky knoll two or three hundred feet above
the plain. A more advantageous position to witness a battle
could not be imagined, for the whole plain for miles lay below
like a plan of the surface in black and white, and when at
daybreak we saw the Turkish army drawn up in perfect
battle order across the road between us and Tatar-Bazardjik,
now burning in a dozen different places, we could scarcely
wait for the infantry to get up ; indeed it did not get up until
, after the firing began, for a couple of 9-pounders were sent
down the road far in advance of the outposts, with only a
VOL. II. A A

354. WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
handful of Kuban Cossacks as a support, and began to throw
shrapnell into the group of Circassians gathered there.
The Kubans scattered out right and left, and trotted away to
meet the Circassians, who were ready to welcome them. For
a few moments there was a lively little fire, and then they
began to stop and look at one another. The whole plain
about Tatar-Bazardjik seemed alive with Turkish cavalry;
large squads were moving here and there, long lines were
filing off to the right and left ; and besides these movements
preparatory to receiving the expected attack the infantry
strung out in long double lines of skirmishers.
The Russian infantry soon came over the hill in small detach
ments, marched right up to within gunshot of the Circassians,
who hesitated and drew back at their approach, and then the
riflemen lay down in the ditches. We saw little blue clouds
of smoke arise, and it was evident that they were making
themselves comfortable.
There we stood, watching the field all day long, while the
dragoons made a wide detour to the left to try and reach the,
road beyond the town. The only break in the monotony of
the day was the sending of a flag of truce into the Turkish
lines with a .letter which had been sent by Major Zeki to
Suleiman Pacha. Prince Tzereteleff was chosen to carry the
letter ; and, accompanied by a trumpeter and a Cossack, who
carried on his lance two handkerchiefs tied together by a
corner, he rode down the road. As Tzereteleff had been fired
on last summer near Kezanlik whUe on a similar mission,
and had barely escaped being killed, we watched with great
interest the little group draw nearer and nearer to the
Turkish outposts until they were within a few rods, and then
at last we saw three horsemen come out to meet them, and
we knew that the Turks had learned at last to respect the
white flag, or at least had chosen to respect it.
It was perfectly evident that this parade of force, and the open
preparations for resisting an attack along the road, were only
to cover the retreat of the army ; and, just as we expected,
by daybreak on the 14th the town was completely evacuated.
The bridge on the road was broken but not seriously injured,
but the one over the Maritza between the town and the

TATAR-BAZARDJIK. 355
railway station was entirely burned. Two or three wretched-
looking Bulgarians fawned on us as we entered the city, but
the streets were otherwise almost entirely deserted.
There is nothing more forlorn and desolate than a freshly
plundered depopulated town, and Tatar-Bazardjik was a good
example of what the Turkish soldiery can accomplish in one
short night. The streets were barricaded with broken cases,
shutters, and the confused debris of the shops. Every house
was open and gutted. Bedding, groceries, furniture, small
wares of all kinds fairly paved the streets leading toward
the railway station. The bright sun shining through clouds
of smoke from a hundred burning houses lighted the scene
of destruction and devastation with a reddish glare, and here
and there a dead body with pools of blood still fresh about it
completed a perfect picture of war in its most dramatic
aspect.
Before we had been in the town half an hour, the ox carts, with
the household goods and families of the Bulgarian citizens,
began to pour in from the fields, and on the other side of the
river gathered a great crowd of fugitives waiting to be
ferried back. The railway station was crowded, and thousands
were swarming all about it, half wild with fright. The Turks •
had forced all the families to leave the town, probably with
the intention of totally destroying the place by fire, and they
were all hustled to the railway station ; such as there was
time to take were carried off, many were compelled to follow
the army, and not a few took their own direction in the
confusion, and were now returning when they heard of the
Eussian occupation.
I have no statistics of the amount of property destroyed in
Tatar-Bazardjik, but I should judge that at least seventy-five
houses were burned. Of course, the Bulgarians who have
lost their homes take possession of the deserted Turkish
dwellings, so they are comfortable enough for the present,
and will not suffer. Some three-score prisoners were gathered
up in the town, many of them wounded by the sabres of the
advance guard of cavalry, who followed close on the heels
of the retreating enemy. There was one rather amusing
capture while we halted in the town. A A 2

356 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
A priest of one of the regiments went into a house and had a
fire lighted to make some tea. As the house was not entirely
plundered he thought he might find some sugar in a cup
board near the fireplace, but instead of sugar he found a
Turk with his rifle across his knees, curled up in the small
space between the door and the wall. Mutual surprise and
mutual fear ! But the priest recovered first, and ordered the
Turk to give himself up, which he promptly did. While
he was drinking his sugarless tea, it occurred to the priest
to look in another cupboard, and an exactly similar result
followed, and he had the honour of turning over two prisoners
to the guard.
That evening the camp fires of the retreating army blazed .on
the hill-sides beyond the railway, exactly opposite to our own
and the Maritza, and perhaps a couple of miles of nice fields
separated the two armies from one another. The night
was bitterly cold, and a piercing wind was blowing, but
it was decided that the river must be forded, so Count
Schouvaloff crossed with several battalions of infantry, and
started immediately in pursuit of the rear g^uard of the Turks,
which was still moving on, followed by a long line of
stragglers. The river was full of ice, and the current was
so rapid that the men, breast deep in the water, could
scarcely keep their feet. In their drenched and freezing
garments they formed battalions on the right bank, and
pushed on cheerfully after the enemy until late in the night,
when they bivouacked in the village of Adakioj.
The columns of Schilden-Schuldner, Kriidener, and Weliam-
inoff had all descended into the plain during the day, the
latter somewhat behind its assigned position, and the detach
ment of Count Schouvaloff, which was intended to be the
central column, was now in reality leading. Although the
Turkish army was so near, it was playing such an active game
that it was extremely difficult to keep up with it. Of course
General Gourko did not intend to attack it, because, as it
was evidently demoralized, its end was certain, and it would
have been foolish to sacrifice two or three thousand lives to
accomplish a result which time would bring about. When ;
Count Schouvaloff's detachment moved out of the village of

A DARING CIRCASSIAN. 357
Adakioj just before daybreak, prepared to follow the Turks,
who were supposed to have fled in the night, it ran plump
upon the enemy, quietly waiting there in position between
Karatair and Kadikioj, admirably protected by a little stream
which had cut a narrow but deep channel in the earth, quite
impassable for any troops. Their right rested, as we learned
about the same time in the morning, on the road in the
village of Airanli, so that the hill behind Kadikioj was really
the centre of their position. So then the object of Schouva
loff's movement was accomplished ; the enemy had paused in
his retreat, and the thing to do next was to keep him busy
while a column had time enough to turn him by his right
flank, thus blocking his retreat toward Philippopolis.
Count Schouvaloff got his men under such cover as the nature
of the ground afforded, and began a lively demonstration,
and a hot musketry fire was interchanged. Just about the
time this began General Gourko, who had started away from
the village of Konak Durankioj, where he had passed the
night, long before dayHght reached the point where the river
and the road almost meet, very near the village of Airanli.
" We were watching the smoke rise from PhiHppopolis, and the
troops as they marched along the road, when three horsemen
rode out of the grove upon the opposite bank of the river ;
one of them drew his revolver and deliberately fired it three
times in our direction, and then turned and quietly trotted
away, followed by the second, while the third remained there
looking at us. He was dressed in the Circassian costume,
and there was a brief moment of doubt whether he was not
after all one of the scouts of Schouvaloff's column ; but in an
instant the Kuban Cossacks, who have an instinct for dis
tinguishing the enemy, were kneeling along the bank and
banging away at the Circassian. When the fire began he
saluted, wheeled his horse around, and slowly retired,
evidently caring no more for the buzzing of bullets than for
the singing of so many mosquitoes. I imagined him
chuckling all the time at the wild firing of the Russians, who
certainly did not distinguish themselves on that occasion,
although the mark was not half rifle shot away.
ffe now discovered that the village opposite was full of Turks,

358 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and we could see them clustered like bees about the house's
there. It was a raw, blustering day, and it seemed a pity to
order the men to wade the river, which was rushing along,
covered with bits of floating ice ; but a ford was found a
couple of hundred yards above our position, and a battalion :
waded across and got in and at work in a few moments. . |
General Gourko now, at the suggestion of Captain Scalon, of
his staff, who is well known for his attention to the soldiers,
ordered the dragoons of his escort to take the horses of the
officers and carry the rest of the soldiers across the stream on
horseback. When I rode down to give up my horse for this
work the bullets were already Jailing fast. The road, which,
had been crowded a short time before, was now well cleared,
a battery was at work a Httle further on, and the Turkish
shells began to plough up the rice fields. I never felt more
unprotected than when I walked back that 200 yards to the
little knoll where we had partial shelter, not a tree or an
irregularity of the ground between me and the muzzles of the
Martinis pumping out the bullets like hail. The lead
knocked up the snow all around me, and there was a buzzing
in the air that made me involuntarily quicken my steps. The
firing was not very heavy, but it was effective, for ten out of
the sixty horses which carried over the last two battalionsi
were wounded in the space of about an hour.
When these two battalions got into the vUlage the music of the
fight took a higher key, and there was a constant, ceaseless]
rattle all day long. There we stood and shivered through the]
forenoon, and starved out the afternoon until nearly dark,)
when my servant — a brave young Macedonian, who had
drifted into my quarters in Sofia — came riding in perfect^
coolness along the road, now strewn with dead and wonnded|
and brought up eatables enough for a squadron. Late in the
day General Schilden-Schuldner came up to consult with]
General Gourko, who had been for hours anxiously awaitingj,
the arrival of the column entrusted to the former, which had,
been ordered early to cross the stream below us to make an
attempt to turn the enemy's left. Hours were lost in waiting
for this detachment, and at last, instead of the infantry^
came the old General himself. But the delay was shortly.

CAPTAIN BOURAGO'S ADVENTURES. 359
ended, and the troops came past at quick step. One or two
of the soldiers were wounded in sight of us, for the bullets
were still flying about promiscuously, and the squadron of
dragoons that was detailed to carry three battalions across
the ford lost three or four horses and men during the passage.
The entire loss of the day was about 300, a large proportion
in Schouvaloff's command.
Kriidener's detachment, which had gone towards the town, had
met with little resistance, but arriving on the bank of the
Maritza found the bridge completely destroyed. A couple of
old brass muzzle-loading cannon on the rocky hill in the
centre of the town blazed away the whole day at the
Russians, and there were a score or two of Turks sitting on
the. hill and firing lazily with little effect, and others in the
streets. I believe the loss in Kriidener's column was only six,
but not a man of his force got into the town.
The same squadron of dragoons ^of the Guard which I have
mentioned above as having carried three battalions over the
river returned to General Gourko, and Captain Bourago, who
commanded the squadron, reported that the men were wet,
hungry, and cold, the horses fatigued and without food, and
asked for further orders.
" Go and join your regiment," said General Gourko.
" It is impossible to find the bivouac in the night, your Excel
lency," was the reply.
" Then, suppose you go in and occupy Philippopolis ; you will
find good lodgings there," suggested the General, more than
half in jest.
" Is that your order ? " eagerly asked the Captain.
"It is !" came promptly back in reply, and the Captain saluted,
mounted quickly, and, forgetting fatigue and cold, led his
squadron towards the zone of the enemy's bivouac fires all
along the plain between the river and the mountains, and went
away at a trot.
The adventures of this little band are worth relating. When
they came within half a mile of the fires they halted, and
scouts were sent forward to report on the probable number of
the enemy, but they returned in the course of an hour with
the news that the bivouac was empty, and that the fires were

360 WAR CORRESPONDENCE
left burning to deceive the Russians. Then the squadron
trotted away in the darkness towards the black mass of the
lesser one of the two rocky hills that tower ov,er Philippopolis
— landmarks in the unbroken plain for many miles.
Near the town another bivouac barred the path — this time in a
field enclosed by a ditch and bank of earth. Leaving the
horses to be led in groups of six to a single man, Captain
Bourago and the rest of his force reconnoitred on foot up to
the bivouac, and peered over the wall to hear the last of the
Turks go away in the distance. The fires were only deserted
a few moments before the dragoons arrived. Mounting again,
the dragoons, with the platoon of singers at their head,
marched into the streets of Philippopolis, waking the
inhabitants with the unaccustomed music. Everybody was
of course surprised and delighted at the arrival of the
Russians, and half the population turned out in their night
dresses.
One of the consuls met Captain Bourago, and begged him to i
enter his house and take a cup of tea. Over the tea he put
the natural question.
" How many men are here ? "
" Oh, very many — in fact, an immense force," was the reply.
" But I mean here in the city," repeated the consul.
" Why, we have got a whole squadron of dragoons !"
" Then, if you value your lives," said the consul, ''yon will
lose no time in trying to escape, for you are surrounded on
all sides."
With only a moment of hesitation, Bourago ordered his men to
mount, and marched away towards the station, where the
enemy was reported to be strongest.
It was now past midnight ; the great piles of stores and several
houses were burning at the station, and just beyond could
be plainly distinguished by the light of the fires a great mass
of Turkish soldiers in some disorder. In the same formation
as before, the dragoons advanced with great precaution, and
reached a ditch within short range, concealed themselves
in it, and opened a scattering fire, cheering and shouting with
all their might.
Volley after volley answered their fire, but the bullets passed

CONDITION OF PHILIPPOPOLIS. 361
over their heads, and they began to shoot with all possible
rapidity, taking careful aim. The terrific fire of the Turks
grew weaker and weaker, and finally melted away, and
sounded further and further off. Now was the moment to
charge, and the squadron mounted and went away at a gallop
after 1,500 retreating Turks, sabreing those who did not
immediately give themselves up, and capturing over fifty
prisoners. Surrounding the burning station with a guard,
Captain Bourago entered it, and found three consuls there
with several of the railway employes, and learned that a
short quarter of an hour before three Pachas were standing
there, waiting for a supper to be prepared. I hardly need
remark that the officers of the squadron enjoyed that supper.
Count Rebender, who, with Lieutenant Pijoff, had been very
active through the whole affair, was given a platoon to clear
out the nest on the hill, which he did in short order, and the
squadron slept in the town.
Philippopolis was in a frightful state. For just one week there
had been a reign of the greatest confusion. On the 8th of
the month a telegram was received from Suleiman Pacha,
ordering the city to be evacuated of all its inhabitants, because
he intended to burn it on the approach of the Russians. On
the following day news came from the same source that an
armistice of two months had been arranged. The Christian
schools began again, and business was to some extent resumed,
but only a few shops were opened for fear of the Circassians
and Bashi-Bazouks. The Turkish families continued to flee,
transporting all their household effects to the station to be sent
to Constantinople. Frequent trains were run, carrying thou
sands of passengers, loading the roofs, the steps, and even the
buffers of the carriages with a living freight. Provisions
were thrown away or sold for trifling sums. A yoke of oxen
only brought one Turkish pound, a cow eight piastres, and
a sheep four.
On the 10th of the month the last passenger train went away,
and immense piles of goods and household effects still re
mained at the station. Orders came from the medical
director at Constantinople to remove all the sick and
wounded (numbering 850) to the station, to await a train

362 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
which would be sent to carry them away ; and this order
was executed with as little stir as possible, for fear of
augmenting the disorders. The consuls, English, French,
Italian, Greek, and Austrian met and consulted about the
best measures to protect the inhabitants, and decided to stay,
and to pay no attention to the order to evacuate the town,
which had been repeated. The Circassians and Bashi-Bazouks
having begun promiscuous plundering as early as the 12th,
the authorities in the Greek Church issued 150 muskets to
the citizens of that nationality to protect themselves from
the irregular soldiers ; but of course there was no authority,
civil or religious, which could stop plundering, or prevent
incendiary fires. On the 14th, before daylight, the bazaar
was in flames, and the Russian cavalry being near, the bridge
was burned, to prevent it entering the town.
The story of the next day I have aHeady told. I can give little
idea of the condition of the town, even as we found it when
we entered on the 16th ; but it was a picture of ruin and
destruction all along the streets where the shops were, and
was smoking in a dozen places. It was rather a ridiculous
sight to see a whole army corps wasting precious hours idly
watching the smouldering timbers of the bridge, and the
rushing, ice-choked stream that separated them from the
opposite shore, where thousands of Bulgarians were franti
cally shouting and gesticulating. We rode down to the river
bank and there halted, waiting for a small leaky boat that was
coming across. I don't know whether it was in derision of
the inaction of the soldiers, or whether it was due to the
impulse of a half-cracked brain, that a sturdy Bulgarian
stripped and plunged into the icy water, and half waded,
half swam across to us, blowing like a porpoise. He had
nothing particular to say, so he was wrapped up in a rug, and
sent away to warm himself.
Prince Tzereteleff crossed over in the skiff to arrange about
the bridge, and in a few moments there was a rope sent across,
and a rude ferry established. Mr. Petline, the delegate of the
Princess Imperial Red Cross Society, was the only engineer
who happened to be present, and he undertook immediately
the building of a solid structure out of radway iron and

AT THE FORD. 363
planks. The Bulgarians were in a state of the greatest
excitement. We could see that most of them were armed,
and those who came over in the skiff so far lost their heads
as to rush down to the water's edge and take deliberate aim
at Prince Tzereteleff, who was walking in his Circassian
costume among the people on the opposite shore, and they
would have fired if they had not been suddenly brought to
their senses. We stood there feeling rather foolish, for this
was the first time the Turks had taken the trouble to hinder
our advance by burning a bridge, and the Bulgarians began
to construct a foot-bridge on the bases of the piers, and a few
enterprising boat-buUders were hammering away in a lively
manner on some scows they were making to serve as a ferry.
We tried one ford, but several men got a ducking, and one
horseman was swept down stream, and before long a shallower
place was found, and we crossed with the ice knocking against
our horses shoulders and the saddle flaps.
When Prince Tzereteleff came into the town, he found only
two or three marauding soldiers there, for the dragoons were
already off to new fields, and he constituted himself a special
police force to stop pillaging untU enough soldiers crossed to
form a patroh The flag of the Stafford House hospital was
almost the first thing that attracted my attention after we
had climbed the steep hill, where we had quarters assigned
us. I found two of the Stafford House Committee men
there, neither of them Englishmen, and two young English
doctors in the Turkish service. The hospital was nearly full
of wounded Turks, and all the available force was employed
in bringing them up from the station, where they had been
starving for days. Towards evening I was passing the
hospital again, and I found they were about to send down
some hard bread to the wounded at the station, but the
servant who was to carry it was naturally enough afraid to go
so far out of town in his Turkish costume, and the Red
Crescent was little protection from marauders and brigands
of either nationality ; therefore they begged me to give him
safe conduct, and we went off together, for there were very
few soldiers in the town, and a guard was not at that moment
available. It is a half -hour's walk from the hospital to the

364 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
station, and when we arrived it was nearly dark. The
wounded were huddled together in a temporary wooden
building, without attendants, with neither food nor water ;
many of them had died of starvation and neglect, and the
rest were in a miserable state altogether. The single word
" ekmek " caused a general cry of joy. A hundred bony
hands were stretched out, sunken eyes glittered with delight,
those strong enough to move raised themselves on their
elbows, and begged for a morsel. While the biscuit was cir
culating one after another of the poor wretches held out a
water jug or a canteen, and I found there was not a drop of
water in the place, and had not been all day.
I searched for some Bulgarians to press them into my service
to bring water. Following the sound of wrangling and
blows of axes I came upon a crowd of them who had got
into the store-room of the hospital, where medicines in bulk
and a few provisions, like rice and butter, were kept, and
were smashing things right and left and fighting among
themselves for the loot. They scattered when I came upon
them in the twilight, but I halted there as many of them as
I could surround and herded them into the hospital, loaded
them with jugs and canteens, and started them for water.
There was considerable firing still going on at no great distance
just in the direction of the spring, and the Bulgarians were
not ambitious to distinguish themselves under fire, but having
noticed the muzzle of an easy-acting revolver looking for
some one in their vicinity they thought the safest plan was
to bring the water, and did so in haste. But one of them
had a half revenge later in the evening, or at least I suppose
it was one of the crowd, for as I was passing an open space
in the street I heard a splutter and a bang, and then a whiz
close to my head, and it was evident that some one had
sighted me with an old flint-lock. I did not find the fellow,
and I thought it prudent not to make too careful a search for
him, for there were probably a couple of horse pistols and a
yataghan in his sash, and he had the advantage of being in
ambush.
I have said that the firing was going on the first night we were
in the town, and we heard at sunrise the cannon still boom-

HOMERIC HEROISM. 365
ing. The battle-field was not more than an hour's ride
distant, and from a neighbouring mound the fight could be
plainly seen. The Turks were firing from the vineyard
terraces at the foot of the hills, and waves of musketry
swept from one end of the line to the other. But the rifle
fire was not the hottest where the sharpest work was going
on, for the Turks charged impetuously down the slopes, and
bayonets and sabres were crossed in hand-to-hand fight.
The Turks were fairly at bay, for after slipping away between
the columns of Schilden-Schuldner and Weliaminoff they
had halted completely exhausted on the hillsides south of
the city. DondeviUe had hurried up across the Maritza and
flanked them on the right, Schouvaloff and Schilden-
Schuldner were pushing them in front, and Weliaminoff wras
crowding them on the left. Behind them were the bleak
mountains, on three sides of them an enterprising, fearless,
tireless enemy, and they resisted in their last ditch with
desperation, fighting like lions in their lairs.
Those three days of fighting were full of incidents of Homeric
heroism on both sides. Egyptians, Arabs, and Turks faced
certain death with grim glee, and the sturdy Muscovites gave
up their lives without an instant of fear or hesitation. It is
said that Fuad Pacha, the commander of the reinforcements
from the Rasgrad army, who so skilfully conducted the re
treat from Samakova, rushed upon the brigade of General
Krasnoff at the head of his men. Becoming mixed up in the
melee and separated from his escort he was surrounded, but
refused to surrender, and defended himself so desperately
that he put hors de combat seventeen of his assailants before
he was cut in pieces himself. We had heard that the Pacha
who commanded the army we were in pursuit of would die
before he surrendered, and he had made good his word in a
glorious manner.
The Turks found at last, after losing thirty cannon, for they
had no practicable road for wheels behind them, that they
must either disband and escape or be taken prisoners, and they
chose the former alternative, and during the night of the 17th
abandoned the twenty cannon which still remained to them,
and dispersed in the mountains. They will undoubtedly

366 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
find plenty to eat in the mountain villages, for the people in -
the district through which they will go are notoriously hostile
to the Christians, and will doubtless give every assistance and
protection to the fugitives. It is no longer an army, for it
is without leader, has no supplies, no artillery, and no ammu
nition. If it holds together in large bands, if the battalion
organization is not broken up, it may stiU do service further
south ; but out of demoralized, scattered, straggling masses
it is very difficult to reorganize anything like an effective
force, and the army may be considered as effectually broken
up.
The inhabitants of Philippopolis are not yet free from appre
hension that they may suffer from the Mussulman
mountaineers, who are known to be active in revenge. The
Consuls saved the city this time ; but the people have not
full confidence in the powers of the foreign agents in defend
ing the place against the attack of the mountaineers if the
Russians do not leave a large force of occupation.

THE SERVIAN MOVEMENT. 367

CHAPTER XIII.

THE ADVANCE OF RADETSKY AND SKOBELEFF.

The Work of Twenty Days. — Kezanlik. — Arrival of Server Pacha and Namyk
Pacha. — A Diplomatic Contest. — How Skobeleff and Gourko obtained
Supplies. — Crowded State of the Shipka Pass. — The Capital of the Rose
Country. — Movements of Skobeleff and Radetsky. — Plan and Objects of the
Combined Operations. — Turkish Movements before the Fall of Shipka. —
Number and Disposition of the Turkish Forces. — Effects of the Turkish
Disaster at Shipka. — An Exciting Chase. — Hot Pursuit of the Remnant of
Suleiman Pacha's Army. — A Severe Battle. — Heavy Losses of Russians and
Turks. — Desperate Personal Encounters. — Route of Suleiman's Army. — The
Three Heroes of the Campaign. — Distribution and Numbers of the Rus
sian Forces. — Interview between the Grand Duke and Server and Namyk
Pachas. — The Armistice Negotiations. — Anniversary of the Refusal of
the Protocol by the Turks. — Occupation of Adrianople. — Skobeleff's Iron
Discipline. — Flight of the Mussulman Population. — Arrival of Gourko in
Advance of his Column.

It will have been seen that from the moment that the forces
under the command of General Gourko in the Etropol Balkans
were again in motion, the Turks had virtuaHy abandoned the
defence of RoumeHa westward of Adrianople. Not only were
they threatened by the Russian forces in this direction ; the
advance of the Servian army, which, under General Horvato
vitch, invested Nisch, and before the close of the year had
captured Ak Palanka and Pirot, after severe struggles, ren
dered resistance to the advance of the Russians still more
hopeless. In like manner it soon became apparent that a
large proportion of the Turkish forces which had lately been
employed in attacking and holding in check the Russian
Army of the Lom were to be withdrawn for the more urgent
objects of the defence of the capital. The first token of this

368 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
change of tactics was the sudden appearance of Suleiman
Pacha at Constantinople with 10,000 troops hastily embarked
at Varna. Further movements of a Hke kind followed, the
object being to concentrate so much of the whole remaining
strength of the Turkish armies as could be spared for that
purpose at Adrianople. This retirement of the Turks was at
once foHowed by the re-occupation of Elena and Slataritza by
the forces under Prince Mirsky, while General Todleben,
appointed to the command of the Army of the Lom (ori
ginally designated the Army of Rustchuk), undertook the
investment of the Danubian fortresses. Meanwhile Skobeleff
and Radetsky were accomplishing movements second only
in rapidity, brilliancy, and importance to that of General
Gourko. On the 9th of January General Radetsky took possession
of the Shipka Pass. 'The village of Shipka having been
first captured, the Turkish army was taken in the rear and
compelled to surrender. Thirty-two thousand prisoners sur
rendered to the Russians on this occasion after severe fighting.
Among these were four Pachas ; ninety -two guns were also
captured, with ten colours. The Russian losses were very !
considerable, being two generals, one colonel, and one lieu
tenant-colonel, wounded ; nineteen officers kUled and 116 "
wounded; 1,103 men killed and 4,246 wounded — making a
total of 5,464. These disasters, as subsequently proved, were
fatal to Suleiman Pacha's plan of falling back upon Adrianople.
That city was accordingly abandoned. As will be seen, it was i
occupied by General Skobeleff before this point was reached by
the victorious army of General Gourko.
The subjoined letter is from a correspondent who was at this
period in the neighbourhood of the operations described :— -
t Kezanlik, January 19th. — The Russian army has within the -
last twenty days developed an amount of energy, and shown
a degree of activity for which nobody was prepared. The

ARRIVAL OF TURKISH COMMISSIONERS. 369
capture of Sofia by Gourko, Radetsky's victory at Shipka,
with the capture and destruction of the Turkish army as
completely as that of Plevna, the capture of Samakovo,
Gourko's wonderfully rapid march from Sofia to Philippop
olis, Skobeleff's equally rapid march from Shipka to the same
place, where Suleiman Pacha was nearly surrounded, and
captured, the occupation of Slivno and Yeni-Zagra, aU have
occurred within the last eighteen days.
Turkish resistance ended, as I predicted it would, at Plevna,
with the defeat of Osman Pacha. While they may still
make a stand at Bujuk Chekmejeh, before Constantinople,
there is not another place this side where they can hope to
offer any serious resistance to the Russian advance. The
Russians have over the Balkans at this moment fourteen
divisions, 125,000 men. It is not astonishing, therefore, that
the Turks should endeavour either to gain time in order to
see the result of the debates in Parliament, and if there is
any hope of England interfering in their behalf at the last
moment, or to really sue for peace and accept the terms
dictated by Russia.
Server Pacha has arrived here to-day. He is accompanied by
Namyk Pacha, a Turk of great consideration and import
ance. Namyk has occupied nearly every post of importance
under the Government of the Porte. He has been Ambas
sador at St. Petersburg, and was Turkish Ambassador in
Paris to Louis PMlippe. They arrived here about four
o'clock from Eski-Zagra, and it was the news of their coming
which caused the Grand Duke to delay his departure yester
day for Phdippopolis. They went immediately to the houses
prepared for them, and negotiations wiU not be opened until
to-morrow.
It is probably known that the Turks have been trying during
the last two weeks to obtain an armistice by requests made
at St. Petersburg, and also to the Grand Duke Nicholas.
An armistice was flatly refused by the Russians, who
informed them that it could not be granted, but that they
would listen to overtures for peace. The Turks then asked
what would be the conditions offered by the Russians, and
were told that they would have to apply directly to the
VOL. II. B B

370 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.,
Grand Duke Nicholas. This accounts for the arrival of
Server and Namyk Pachas. To-morrow will begin the dip
lomatic contest under somewhat peculiar circumstances,
Russians as well as Turks being completely cut off from,
Russia and the outside world. Snowstorms have destroyed
the lines in Russia, and in Bulgaria the line is working only
as far as Gabrova.
As the great difficulty of the Russian army has hitherto been
transport, military men wiU be curious to know how that
difficulty has been overcome during this rapid forward move-.
ment. Evidently Gourko could not keep up his supplies
from Roumania by way of Sofia over a difficult pass of the'
Balkans, without speaking of the impassibUity of the
Danube. Gourko found a considerable quantity of Turkish'
supplies in Sofia, which enabled him to start, and since that
time has been living on the country. Skobeleff, since his
passage of the Balkans, has likewise been living on the
country. The Valley of Tundja is furnished with nothing, i
it is true, as nearly every village is burned, and the country]
is completely ravaged and destroyed, but the Valley of the|
Maritza seems inexhaustible. Skobeleff writes from Her-
manli that he has plenty of food for his men and forage for
his horses. It is probable the army wiU find plenty until the
transport is in working order, which, from aU appearances!
will not be soon. The Pass of Shipka is literaUy blocked. }
No supplies are coming over it. The Grand Duke's baggage .
has not yet arrived. The greater part of the officers of the,
staff crossed on foot, including General Hall, the head of thej
Grand Duke's household. The distance from Gabrova to :
Kezanlik is seven hours for a horse, but waggons take three j
or four days. |
When I crossed the whole road was full of artillery and muni- „
tion waggons working slowly through. Each gun had twelve
horses and from twenty to fifty soldiers dragging at it. The-
northern slope is many feet deep with snow. The southern^
slope, which is very steep, and shorter than the northern, is1'
a mass of ice, so that it takes as many men to hold the
cannon back on this side and keep them from rolling overT
the precipices as it does to drag them forward on the other,

KEZANLIK. 371
In addition to this, although the temperature is only about
freezing point at Gabrova and Kezanlik it is many degrees
below in the Pass, and there seems to be a fearful snowstorm
perpetually raging up there in the clouds. Snow fell so
thick when I came over that at times I could not see a yard
before me. Driven by a terribly icy wind, the snow froze
, into ice in my ears and nose. The eyebrows and beard were
one mass of ice. Fortunately the houses constructed by
Eadetsky are still in good condition deep under the snow,
and there is plenty of wood easily obtained. Nothing could
be more curious than those little huts clinging to the moun
tain side, in many cases only discernible by the thin blue
smoke rising out of the snow, drifting over them, and curved
by the fierce winds into every curious and fantastic shape
' imaginable. Steps are cut in the snow every day, by which
access is gained to them, and to many of them Radetsky's
soldiers had constructed balustrades and handrails to prevent
! themselves being rolled down declivities by sudden gusts of
wind. As these huts continually line the whole ascent,
everybody finds shelter and fire without much difficulty.
- The only trouble is food. General Hall told me the Grand
* Duke's train left with food and forage for two days. Five
1 days have passed and the train has not yet arrived. For my
!' own part I managed to cross with horse, overcoat, blanket,
i and a pocket full of bread and cheese, and should myself
* have been badly off here but that I fell among friends.
kezanlik presents a very different appearance from what it did
t» when I was here with Gourko in July. Then it was a
* smiling prosperous town, one of the most prosperous and
> beautiful in Bulgaria, the capital of the rose country, full of
beautiful gardens and orchards, with streams of clear water
9 running through all the streets. Now it is little better than
!> a mass of ruins. It was partly burnt by Suleiman Pacha.
''. When the Russians arrived not a soul was to be seen. The
j? Turkish population fled during the late fight. The Bulga-
i rians had fled ; those who did not had been massacred last
lii summer. They began to arrive with the Russians, and
fl as the only thing left in the houses to steal was the windows,
, j they commenced carrying those off with great promptitude. B b 2

372 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
The result is that all the houses not instantly occupied by
the Russians are windowless, and it is almost impossible to
get lodgings, as rooms where the windows are not gone are
without fireplaces, and those that have fireplaces are
windowless.
There are several Turkish hospitals here, and I was glad to
observe that the hospital attendants had not run away and
abandoned the sick and wounded as at Plevna. I looked into
several and found them comfortably warmed, with plenty of
wood in the yards, though I do not know how they are off
for food. There are twenty-one Austrian-Hungarian doctors
and apothecaries here who have charge of the hospitals.
Kezanlik is completely ruined, and it will be years before it
recovers, its ancient prosperity. The same may be said of
every town and village, from Slivno to Karlovo, including the
latter place, the richest and most beautiful part of Bulgaria,
All that escaped of the Bulgarian population fled north of
the Balkans. The Turkish population has been gradually^
evacuating the country during the last two or three months,!
so that very few are left. Most have gone to Adrianople and
Constantinople, and some to Philippopolis and throughout:
the Maritza Valley.

t Kezanlik, January 20th. — The operations of the Russian
armies since the capture of Sofia and the battle of Shipka.
have been as follows : —
' Skobeleff, the second day after the battle, marched for Her-
manli, the junction of the Philippopolis and Yamboli Rail
ways, forty-five miles from Adrianople, with two divisions,
the 16th, his own division, and its twin, the 39th of the
Fourth Corps, together with two brigades of eight battalionf,"
of sharpshooters. Brigades of cavalry of the Third
Division, under the command of General Kartsoff, marched
upon Philippopolis by way of Kalofer and Karlovo. Eadet
zky's corps, to which the 15th Division has been added;
followed Skobeleff as far as Eski-Zagra and marched upoi
Cirpan, east of Philippopolis, evidently with the intention of
surrounding that place, in co-operation with the 3rd Division

SUMMARY OF RECENT OPERATIONS. 373
marching by the Karlovo road ; and also to cut off the Turks
.at Ichtiman defending that pass against General Gourko.
The Turks by this movement of Radetzky and Skobeleff would
find the whole vaUey of the Maritza cut off behind them. In
this way the retreating army of Sofia, as well as the Philip
popolis forces, would have no escape but by throwing them
selves into the Rhodope mountains, where there are no roads,
and where they must inevitably lose their artillery and
baggage, and be dispersed, in any case prevented from
reaching Adrianople before Skobeleff, and reinforcing its
1 garrison.
The plan has in great part succeeded, and although only about
3,000 prisoners were taken, a great part of the artillery
seems to be captured, and the armies of Philippopolis and
; Sofia dispersed.
The Turkish movements before the fall of Shipka and after the
fall of Sofia were as follows : —
'The forces at Araba-Konak retreated upon Slatitza, evidently
with the intention of defending the entrance to the valley of
Tundja, and prevent General Gourko from turning the
positions at Shipka. There were twenty-five tabors, probably
15,000 men. The army of Sofia fell back partly upon the
Kaputchik defile, near Ichtiman, on the road from Sofia to
Tatar-Bazardjik, but principally upon Samakova, south-east
from Sofia. These dispositions evidently indicated the
following plan : —
leneral Gourko would naturally advance upon the Kaputchik
defile, attack it in front, and endeavour to turn it. The
Turkish commander then evidently meant to attack General
Gourko in the rear and flank with the bulk of his forces at
Samakova. There were some fifty tabors at Sofia, about
30,000 men, of which only five tabors went to hold the defile,
probably because it was expected that reinforcements would
[ arrive from Philippopolis.
Che plan was good enough, and might have given General
Gourko some trouble. Samakova is a position against the
mountains easily defended, and cannot be surrounded. It
has a road to Philippopolis independent of the high road.
General Gourko could not march upon Philippopolis with

374 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
a strong Turkish force at Samakova in his rear, nor could he
invest that place or take it without great sacrifice of men. I
Your Special Correspondent with General Gourko will
undoubtedly send you full details of Gourko's operations, i
In the meantime I send the following narrative of the march
upon Philippopolis, given me by Colonel Scalon, of the
Grand Duke's staff, who accompanied General Gourko, and
left Philippopolis a few hours after its capture, and arrived]
here yesterday. 'Sj
This march of General Gourko, which ended in a hot pursuit
of the Turks, resembles in rapidity of movement and swift- ,
ness of combination Grant's pursuit of Lee after the fall of
Richmond, but was less successful, inasmuch as he did not '>
succeed in capturing the Turkish army. It was, however, '
equally important in its consequences, as it seems to have j
resulted in the destruction and dispersion of that army. 1
The march of General Gourko and that of General Skobeleff,:
show what a Russian army can do when led by capable
chiefs. General Gourko only remained in Sofia three days
to rest his half-starved half-frozen soldiers. On January
7th he dispatched General Weliaminoff with part of the
31st Division of the Ninth Corps to Samakova ; on January.
9th, the second division of the Guard, under General Shou-
valoff, towards Ichtiman; and the third division of the
Guard, General DondeviUe ; the fifth division, and the rest
of the thirty-first division of the Ninth Corps, General,
Kriidener, towards Slatitza ; himself following Shouvaloff;
towards Ichtiman next day with Rauch's brigade of the first
division. s J
General Weliaminoff found the Turks in strong positions)
around Samakova, and pushed a reconnaissance, in which he:
lost 150 men. Next day the Turks sent a flag of truce, saying'
they had orders from Constantinople to ask for an armistice^
General Weliaminoff asked for instructions from General1.
Gourko, who ordered him to attack instantly, but when*
Weliaminoff prepared to attack next day, he found that the!;
Turks had disappeared. General Shouvaloff found the defilej
of 'Kaputchik abandoned, and Generals Kriidener and Don-;
deville found no Turks at Slatitza. The reason was evident!

AN EXCITING CHASE. 375
The Turkish Commander, instead of carrying out his well-
conceived plan of defence, was obliged to fly by the terrible
disaster of Shipka. General Skobeleff and General Radetzky
were marching to the Valley of the Maritza to cut off his
retreat and take him in the rear. Not a moment was to be
lost if he ever hoped to reach Adrianople. He instantly
began his retreat, and this is why Weliaminoff found the
Turks had disappeared from Samakova.
Then began a most exciting chase. Weliaminoff started after
the Turks, who were retreating by the road from Samakova
to Philippopolis on the right bank of the Maritza along the
foot of the Rhodope Mountains. General Gourko and
General Shouvaloff pushed forward with the utmost speed
along the road which descends into the valley of the Maritza
between Ichtiman, Bazardjik, and Checheren, and continues
along the left bank. The two armies once in the valley were
part of the time in sight of each other, with Maritza between
them, both making superhuman efforts, and breathless and
: exhausted with the chase.
General Gourko, before descending into the Maritza, after
passing Ichtiman, had sent one regiment across the moun
tains between the two roads, to try and cut off the Turkish
retreat, but this regiment only arrived in time to cut off
about 300 men of the rear guard. When General Gourko
arrived in the Maritza Valley the Turks were slightly ahead.
When he arrived at Tatar-Bazardjik they were somewhere
near Peshtere, the first burnt village visited by Mr. Schuyler
and Mr. Baring after the Bulgarian massacres. The bridge
near Tatar-Bazardjik was destroyed. Gourko's troops waded
the Maritza with its ice-cold water up to their waists, and
reached in sight of Tatar-Bazardjik on January 13, the
fourth day after leaving Sofia. They found Tatar-Bazardjik
about half burnt, and without stopping there pushed on to
wards Philippopolis. General Gourko reached Kadikoi, about
ten miles from Philippopolis, on the 14th, and here found the
Turks strongly entrenched in good positions, but they were
not the Turks he was in pursuit of. They were a detach
ment Suleiman Pacha had sent here on purpose to delay
General Gourko and gain time. In this he succeeded, for

376 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
General Gourko was obliged to halt, reconnoitre, and prepare
1 for attacking Kadikoi. In this way he lost twenty -four hours.
Part of his troops turned Kadikoi, crossed the Maritza at
Aranli, on the horses of the hussars, and were proceeding to
attack Kadikoi in the rear, when the Turks precipitately
abandoned their positions, and retired upon Demendere, which
place the retreating army had then reached.
In the meantime Colonel Bourago, with a squadron of dragoons,
had marched upon PhiHppopolis during the evening, reaching
and occupying that place about eight o'clock on the 14th,
Suleiman Pacha having left at three o'clock the same day for
Demendere, to meet the retreating army.
The race had now become a close and exciting one. The Turks
were on the road at the foot of the Rhodope mountains, the
head of the army at Demendere, marching on Stanimaka,
hotly pursued by General Weliaminoff. While preparing
to take Kadikoi, General Gourko pushed forward the third
division under General DondeviUe to Philippopolis, which I
place he reached on the 15th, when, without halting, General
Gourko threw this same division forward to Stanimaka by
the road, with the object of heading off Suleiman at that
place. General Shouvaloff, with the second division of the :
Guard, having occupied Kadikoi, pushed forward over the
plain south of the railway and attacked the Turkish flank
between Demendere and Stanimaka, while Wehaminoff
came up and fell upon their rear ; and Dondeville's advance
guard of the third dragoons, under General Krasnoff, engaged
the head of the retreating column, while the infantry hur
ried up.
A severe battle resulted, in which the Russians lost 800 men.
The Turks left 4,000 dead and wounded on the field, and the
Russians captured fifty Krupp guns, and took 3,000 prisoners.
Some of the Turks fought with great fury. One Pacha in
particular, whom the Russians tried to capture alive, fought
with the desperation of a madman, and killed and wounded
fifteen soldiers with his own hand by means of revolvers and
his sabre, so that they had to kill him at last.
It is impossible to ascertain how much of Suleiman's army was
caught here. He himself escaped, and it is probable that

THE HEROES OF THE CAMPAIGN. 377
part of his men had already passed Stanimaka when Donde
ville's advance guard reached that place. Part was dispersed
and escaped into the mountains, and may be considered as
lost. When we deduct losses from exhaustion, sickness, and
stragglers, caused by rapid flight, the dispersion of part of
his forces in the last battle, and 7,000 men accounted for by
the Russians, Suleiman may be considered lucky if he escaped
and reached Adrianople with 20,000 men out of 45,000 that
were at Sofia and Philippopolis. It is doubtful if he will
reach Adrianople with them at all. General Skobeleff reports
from HermanH a certain force on his right rear, south side,
along the Maritza valley, at the foot of the Rhodope moun
tains ; but this force he would easily head and prevent it from
reaching Adrianople at all. The army of Suleiman may be
considered as Hterally destroyed, almost as completely as that
of Shipka.
Of the Turkish armies in Europe there now only remains
that of the Quadrilateral, and whatever forces there may
be in Adrianople, which cannot be many. New levies
badly armed, will be panic stricken, and will hardly
defend Adrianople at all. There is now between the
Eussians and Constantinople only the wreck of Suleiman's
army and whatever forces there may be in Adrianople,
for I do not believe there are any troops at all in Constan
tinople.
This result, the destruction of three Turkish armies, the oc
cupation of the whole country from Sofia to Adrianople, and
from the Balkans to Rhodope, has been accompUshed in a
campaign of fifteen days. It has been as rapid as a trans
formation scene in a pantomime, and its results are disastrous
beyond anything that can be imagined to the Ottoman
Empire.
The heroes of the campaign are Generals Gourko, Radetzky,
and Skobeleff, who have carried out operations that for
difficulty of execution, rapidity of movement, and quickness
of combination, have hardly ever been equalled. The Russians
are on the flood-tide of success. Long-delayed victory has
come at last, and I doubt whether there is any Turkish force
between them and Constantinople sufficient to arrest them

378 WAR CORRESPONDENCE!
should they choose to celebrate a religious service in St>
Sofia.
The Russian forces now over the Balkans are distributed as
follows : — General Gourko — Three divisions of the Guard,
the thirty-first and fifth Divisions of the Ninth Corps, at
and about Philippopolis, except the second brigade of the
first Division of the Guard, which is at Sofia. These, with
two brigades of sharp-shooters, make eighty battalions.
General Radetzky's corps, on the march somewhere between
Philippopolis and Adrianople, to which the fifteenth Division
had been added. Thirty-six battalions of the third Division,
under Kartzoff, on the march towards Adrianople. Twelve
battalions of the twenty-fourth Division at Slivno. Twelve
battalions of Skobeleff's two divisions, with two brigades of
sharpshooters, thirty-two battalions. Two divisions' of
grenadiers now crossing at Shipka, twenty-four battalions —
in all two hundred and twenty battalions. I have no means
of ascertaining the number of men in the battalions, but think
six hundred will not be an over estimate, which will give
132,000 bayonets this side of the Balkans by the time this
appears in print. In addition to this there is the cavaHy and
artillery, about the numbers of which I have no information.
The cavalry has been considerably reduced by the death of
the horses, and a great deal of the artillery is not yet over
the Balkans. General Skobeleff is scantily supplied with
artillery. Of Gourko's 400 guns he has only 100 with
him, part having been left at Orkanieh and part left behind
in his rapid pursuit. The artillery was found to be a very
great check on rapid movement, and more trouble than it was
worth.
t Kezanlik, January 20th. — Server Pacha and Namyk Pacha
paid a visit to the Grand Duke to-day, and remained talking
an hour and a half. The Grand Duke returned the visit, and
also remained a considerable time. Affairs were discussed in
a general way ; but nothing was done to open negotiations
seriously, neither side evidently being in a hurry to begin.
The Turks are willing to wait to see what the British
Parliament will do. The Russians prefer to wait till Adrianople

THE CONDITIONS OF PEACE. 379
is taken before beginning. Nothing may be concluded, there
fore, for several days.
Namyk Pacha, who is very old, seemed downcast and sad upon
returning from his visit to the Grand Duke. Server Pacha,
however, seemed gay, and chatted pleasantly with the officers
who were with them. Their suite, composed of eighty
followers and domestics, arrived to-day. It is said they
bring, according to Oriental custom, immensely rich presents
for the Grand Duke and staff.
t Kezanlik, January 20th,. 8 p.m. — Events are foUowing each
other with marvellous rapidity. A courier has just arrived
from General Strukoff, of General Skobeleff's advance guard,
with the startling and alarming news that the Turks at
Adrianople have blown up their powder magazines, are burn
ing their stores, and that the fire is extending into the town,
which is in danger of conflagration and destruction. The
greatest disorder prevails at night. The Turkish population
is flying. General Strukoff learned this from a deputation
of Bulgarians, Turks and Greek citizens, who begged the
Eussians to come and try and save the town from the flames.
General Skobeleff has probably occupied Adrianople at the
present moment. Nelidoff looks upon this event as very
grave, and believes it is the precursor of a revolution or dis
orders at Constantinople, which will probably result in the
arrival of the fleets of the whole of Europe, and a foreign
occupation of Constantinople.
The Ottoman Empire is not only crumbling, but tumbling to
pieces. The Conference at Constantinople closed just one
year ago to-day. When it is remembered that the Turks, by
accepting Ignatieff's Protocol, would have furnished Russia
with the famous bridge over which to retreat, and thus
averted the war, the madness of Turkey's friends in urging
resistance can now be fully appreciated.
t Kezanlik, January 21st. — Server Pacha and Namyk Pacha
had a long interview to-day with the Grand Duke and M.
Nelidoff, during which the question of peace was seriously
discussed. When asked what conditions they expected,
Namyk replied that they came to treat as conquered people,

380 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and would throw themselves on the generosity of the con-
queror. He then reminded the Grand Duke in a very adroit
and agreeable way of Alexander the Great and the Indian
prince who, after being conquered, threw himseH on Alex
ander's generosity, when the latter restored to him his
kingdom, and concluded that the Grand Duke would not
forget so noble an example. The Grand Duke expressed his
deepest sympathy for a fallen foe, but could not, he feared,
promise to be as generous as Alexander.
The Turkish Ambassadors have apparently full powers to treat
and sign a peace, but events are foUowing each other so
rapidly that nothing wiU probably be decided till there is a
halt and pause. The Russians very much fear disorders at
Constantinople and the overthrow of the Sultan, which
would be a signal for the wildest anarchy.
The Grand Duke starts for Adrianople on the 24th. It is likely
nothing will be concluded till he reaches there. The Turkish
Ambassadors are of course to follow ; and if peace is to be
made it will probably be made at Adrianople. As the Turks
appear ready to accept the Russian conditions, there seems
to be no reason why peace should not be signed within the
next ten days. The Russian conditions are pretty well known
— if not exactly, very nearly — and it is unnecessary to re
capitulate them. I hear nothing as yet said of the Turkish
fleet, and the Russians admit that the question of the Straits
is for Europe to decide, not Turkey and Russia alone.
t Adrianople, January 26th. — I arrived here yesterday, and
found Skobeleff already in quiet possession of this place,
which, as I telegraphed you, had been hurriedly abandoned
by the Turks. Eyoub Pacha was in command, and he had as
nearly as can be ascertained fifteen or twenty thousand men.
Adrianople is strongly fortified, and it would have given the
Russians trouble had Suleiman been able to retreat here with
his army and defend it, as he evidently intended to do. The
fortifications, which were very elaborate, were constructed by
Blum Pacha. They are very pretty, very correct, and at
first sight appear far more scientific and thorough than the
rough hurried works constructed by Osman around Plevna

ADRIANOPLE. 381
under the spur of necessity and danger. But the Russians
who have examined them critically say that in spite of their
prettiness and correctness, they are in reality far less skilfully
made than those of Plevna, as by a man who knew war only
in theory, not in practice. Good or bad, they have been
rendered useless by the defeat of Shipka and by Gourko's
and Skobeleff's rapid march upon Adrianople. No disasters
occurred here. Fires caused by the explosion of the Turkish
powder magazines were soon extinguished by the Russians,
and the excitement and panic caused by the flight of the
Turks passed away in a few hours. Perfect tranquillity and
quiet now reign. Part of the Turkish population has fled
and part remain in their homes in fear and trembling-.
As Skobeleff maintains iron discipline among his troops, the
Turkish population will not be molested as long as he remains
here, but I will not answer for such good order when the
rest of the army arrives. The town is besides full of Turkish
refugees, who have fled from all parts of the Maritza valley,
slowly and painfully making their way to Constantinople.
On the road between here and Hermanli I passed trains of
thousands of waggons of the Turkish population, loaded down
with men, women, children, and household effects, slowly,
sorrowfully, moving forward, with crying children ; old men
and women of sixty or seventy hobbling along scarcely able to
drag one foot after the other ; for there is not room for all to
ride in the over-laden carriages. Many are trudging through
the cold mud barefoot. AU are wet, cold, half-starved,
wretched, miserable. There are thousands of them, and
they are leaving their homes as they think, perhaps with
only too much reason, for ever. Sad heart-rending spectacle !
Some have supplies that will last them to Constantinople ;
others, I fear, have not, and the suffering and mortality
among them will be terrible.
Now that the war is virtually over, and the calls upon English
charity for the Turkish wounded will be less frequent, the
friends of the Turks could not do better than organize some
system of relief for the fugitives now arriving in Constan
tinople by thousands, and to aid them in returning to tiieir
homes as soon as the war is over. On my way from Kezanlik

382 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
here, I found thirteen dead bodies on the roadside, of which
seven were women, one a child. Two of the women had been
shot, the men had sabre wounds, the child was starved or
frozen to death, as were four or five men and women. But
two women had evidently been robbed, violated, and then
beaten to death, as their bruised blood-stained faces showed,
presenting a horrible heart-rending spectacle. It is impos
sible to say whether the foul crime was committed by Bul
garians or Cossacks, probably the former.
Considering the thousands of fugitives overtaken and passed
by the Russian army on their way here, pursuing and skir
mishing with the Turkish troops, these cases cannot be con
sidered numerous, and, except the two women mentioned,
they were probably accidental. I thought they were horrible
enough untU my comrade, accompanying Gourko from
Philippopolis here, told me of horrors he had seeh on the
road near Haskioi. Suleiman Pacha must be held responsible
for this exodus of the Turkish population and its attendant
miseries, as he ordered it, telling the population they would
all be massacred by the Russians if they remained. The
Bulgarians would undoubtedly have pdlaged and robbed them
to a certain extent, as the Turks had robbed and pillaged them
last summer and the summer before, but this wholesale des
truction of property, this terrible widespread misery and
suffering, would have been avoided; for after aU has been
taken from a house that is worth carrying off, there still
remains enough for the family to find the necessaries of
life.
As regards the absence of disorder here during the time between
the departure of the Turks and the arrival of the Russians,
much must be attributed to the action on the part of the
Consuls. They obtained from Eyoub Pacha seventy Turkish
soldiers, who patrolled the streets until the arrival of the
Russians had maintained order. When this was explained
to Skobeleff he allowed these Turkish soldiers to depart
without molestation. Next day after Skobeleff's arrival he
sent a train to Hermanli, having captured the locomotive and
several carriages, and also had the telegraph in working
operation, having had foresight enough not to destroy the

SEVENTY MILES OF DESOLATION. 383
Turkish telegraphs, as the Russians have hitherto always
done in the most complete manner.
Afternoon. — Gourko has just arrived, far in advance of his
column, which cannot be here for two or three days yet. As
he is Skobeleff's senior, he replaces Skobeleff in command of
the place.

CHAPTER XIV.
FINAL STAGE OF GENERAL GOURKO'S MARCH.
The great Exodus Southward. — The Panic Stricken Mussulmans. — Departure
from Philippopolis. — Harrowing Scenes on tbe Road.— Pillage of the Turks
by the Bulgarians. — Fugitives from Plevna. — Five Months on the Road. —
The Avenue of Death and Desolation. — Hermanli. — Desperate Resistance of
Turks at Derbent. — Skobeleff's Cavalry in the Valley of the Maritza. — Scenes
in Adrianople. — A Field for Philanthropy. — Turkish Hopes of English Inter
vention. — The English Colony in Constantinople.— Traditions of lavish Ex
penditure during the Crimean War. — Current of Opinion among the English
Residents. — Sympathies of the Official Class and of Englishmen in the
Turkish Service. — Spirit of the English Consuls. — Influence of English
Opinion and Sympathies. — The Turks the Dupes of their Friends.
In the following letter, the Correspondent, who has accom
panied General Gourko's Army since the departure from
Dolny-Dubnik, .on the 16th of November, brings to a close
his narrative of that memorable expedition : —
+ Adrianople, January 27th. — Seventy miles of utter desola
tion, seventy long miles strewn with the household effects of
many thousand families, seventy weary miles of a continuous,
ghastly, sickening panorama of death in every form, and in
its most terrible aspect — such is the road from Philippopolis
to Hermanli. This route has been for many weeks the
theatre of scenes, and here has been enacted a tragedy of

384 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
such colossal proportions and horrible character, that it is
quite impossible for any one who has not witnessed part of
it to conceive in the most moderate degree the nature of the
diabolical drama.
It was here that was assembled the great mass of the Turkish
families that fled from the villages at the approach of
the Russians. Fugitives from the entire territory from
Plevna to Philippopolis were for weeks and even months
endeavouring to make their way to Constantinople, the
haven safe from the pursuit of the Muscovite. How many
thousand families already gained the vicinity of Stambonl
before the recent, rapid advance of the Russians it is impos
sible to estimate. It is certain that the long trains of
fugitives blocked all the roads of the Turkish retreat, and
seriously hindered and even stopped the march of the troops.
Ever since the investment of Plevna, and even before, there
was a general exodus to the southward from all the towns
threatened by Russia, and hundreds of trains concentrated
by converging routes in the valley of the Maritza, the tide
being naturally directed towards Constantinople. Never
having found any Turkish families in any of the villages,
it had been a long unanswered question what had become
of the population ; and now for the first time do we appre
ciate in part the sufferings of these people, and form some
adequate idea of the multitude of Mussulman inhabitants
who have fled panic-stricken before the Russians.
As we left behind us the rocky hills and picturesque city of
Philippopolis on the morning of the 23rd, and rode eastward
along the road, the first thing that met our eyes was a
number of bodies of Turkish soldiers lying in the road
crushed by the wheels of passing artillery, and trampled i
into the mud by the feet of many horses. Before we had
gone half a dozen kilometres the corpses of peasants, both
Turkish and Bulgarian, were to be seen lying in the snow,
and some of them had already been exposed to the weather
for two or three weeks. Some had blood stains still fresh on
their garments. Dead horses and cattle blocked the path at '
every few steps, averaging two to the distance between the
telegraph posts ; and as we went further and further away

SCENES ON THE ROAD. 385
from the city the number rapidly increased, and hundreds of
abandoned arabas stood in the road, and choked the ditches
alongside.
The road, too narrow for the immense trains that had passed
over it in hasty flight, was now supplemented by beaten
tracks through the rice-fields on each side, and there were
traces of bivouacs in the snow, which became more and more
frequent as we proceeded, until these side paths were almost
literally carpeted with the debris of camps, and our route
lay between rows of dead animals, broken arabas, piles of
rags and cast-off clothing, and human bodies, for thirty-five
miles of the whole of the first day's ride.
Our mystification increased with every hour. We saw the
bodies of Bulgarian peasants with terrible wounds in the
head and neck, sometimes mutilated and disfigured ; women
and infants, children and old men, both Turkish and Bul
garian, fallen in the fields by the roadside, half buried in the
snow, or lying in the pools of water. It seemed to have
been one long battle between the peasants of both races, in
which the dead were counted equally for each ; but while
;. many of the bodies bore marks of violence and showed
ghastly wounds, the great proportion of the women and
children were evidently frozen to death, for they lay on the
snow as if asleep, with the flush of life still on their faces,
and the pink skin of their feet and hands still unblanched.
Side by side with these, many corpses of old men, full of
dignity even in death, lay stark by the roadside, their white
beards clotted with blood, and their helpless hands fallen
upon their breasts. From the muddy water of the ditches
tiny hands and feet stretched out, and baby faces half covered
with snow looked out innocently and peacefully, with scarcely
a sign of suffering on their features. Frozen at their
mothers' breasts they were thrown down into the snow to
lighten the burden of the poor creatures who were struggling
along in mortal terror.
I say the mystification increased as we advanced, because it
was impossible to see why Bulgarian and Turk should be
frozen side by side, or why there had been such slaughter
of both races. That peasants should be frozen to death was
vol. ii. c c

386 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
no more than could be expected in the severe weather, for
they were travelling in miserable arabas, without food or
shelter, and with half-starved oxen. Miles of these araba
trains we passed on the road, human beings and household
effects jumbled in promiscuously. Upon the jolting carts
bedding and utensils were pded. Women and children upon
donkeys and cattle followed alongside, and behind for miles
was a long trail of wretched, weary, half-dead stragglers ;
old men and women bent double, crawling along with the
aid of crutches or sticks ; mothers with infants at their
breasts, scarcely moving one foot before the other — all this
after long months of flight, constant exposure, continuous
dread of marauders, and the hated Muscovites. Never did
I feel so utterly helpless as in the presence of this supreme
misery. I watched a mother leading along a sick chUd of per
haps ten years, a mile or more behind one of these trains. The
poor girl could with difficulty balance herseH on her naked,
half -frozen feet. Night was coming on, and the cold wind that
chilled us in our warm clothing blew about the rags from the
suffering creature, disclosing emaciated limbs and skeleton
body. The mother was in quite as pitiable a condition. Her
face and head alone were well wrapped up. The araba train
was moving slowly out of sight on the distant hills. A night
on the road meant death to both these unfortunates, and their
straggling friends could give them no assistance, because they
were for the most part in a similar state of misery. The mother
dragged her little one along, fast losing patience as the dark
ness came on, and finally pushed the sick child into the snow
by the roadside, and hurried on without looking behind her.
This was one of a series of similar scenes that were enacted
before our eyes.
Money would do them no good. Extra clothing we had none.
Our food was on the pack-horses far behind, and what we
had with us were scanty rations for the journey. Does it
seem strange that at this time, together with an exhausting
sense of hopelessness and complete helplessness that took
possession of me, came conflicting emotions of keen sympathy
with the Turks, both soldiers and peasants, as the weaker and
losing party, and a certain hard-heartedness at the same

TURKS AND BULGARIANS. 387
time against them for what I knew them to be responsible
for in the Bulgarian horrors ? Here there were murdered
Turks and Bulgarians side by side, and while my liveliest
sympathies went easily with the refugees, whose sufferings
were presented so dramatically in the cold and snow, yet I
had an accurate recollection of the long trains of Bulgarian
refugees, that I had seen in the intense heat of summer in
the region north of the Balkans and on the barren hill-sides
of the Dobrudscha ; and shutting my eyes on the scenes be
fore me, I could easily see vivid pictures of Bulgarians under
similar conditions of misery and suffering, I had not
answered the self-imposed question, which people most deserve
sympathy ? when we arrived at the village of Kurucesme,
where we were to pass the night.
This town, as well as the three others we had passed on the
road, was nothing but a collection of empty buildings and
barnyards. Like the rest it had suffered first from the
exodus of the fugitives, who had pillaged on all sides ; next
from the Bashi-Bazouks and Circassians, who had plundered
and murdered ; and last from the Russian cavalry, who had
pretty well eaten the place bare. Few inhabitants remained
in the village. All was despoiled Even the priest, who
always has something if there is anything in the town,
lived between bare walls, had no carpets, rugs, bedding, or
provisions.
The next morning, just as we were going away, the head of a
long train of returning Turkish refugee families appeared in
the main street of the vUlage. Then followed a scene which
is painful in the last degree to describe. The Bulgarians
: gathered on the side of the street in knots of three or four,
and waited calmly until the miserable train had got well into
the village, when from every direction the inhabitants pounced
upon the exhausted, defenceless Turks, and began to carry
off their household effects, and even the cattle from the
; carts.
One poor woman, leading an ass piled up with bedding, and a
child on the top, found her property distributed among
¦ haff a dozen stalwart ruffians in a twinkling, and the little
• infant on the ground in the mud. The old men and women
c c 2

388 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
clung to their only treasures, while the Bulgarians dragged
them away. Children yelled with fright, and panic reigned, (
which started the slowly-moving caravan into a quick march.1
All this went on before General Gourko was out of sight of
the town.
I happened to linger behind with Captain Soukhanoff, of the
Hussars, and we formed ourselves into a special police force |
in an instant, and the Captain knocked one Bulgarian through
the hedge, while I settled the business with another who was'
escaping with his plunder round the corner of a house. Soon
several officers joined us, and the whips were plied with effect,
scattering the crowds and recovering a great quantity of the
stolen property. I must confess, however, that I could not,
after the heat of indignation was past, blame the villagers so
very much for their attack on the Turks ; for the refugees,
when they had passed through the vUlage, had plundered on
all sides, and as I rode out of the town I saw several bodies
of Bulgarians in the rice fields, where they had been cut
down in the recent massacre, which numbered 136 victims.
From this village to Haskioi the corpses were more numerous
if anything than on the route of the day before. The village
we passed was full of dead Turkish peasants, and on asking
the Bulgarians who killed them, they replied with a great
deal of effusion and fiendish pride : —
" We did it. We and our friends did it."
In Haskioi there were bodies of Turkish soldiers in the streets
nearly buried under heaps of stones and bricks, suggesting!
that after being wounded and unable to move away, they haa
been stoned to death by the peasants ; and here also were
hundreds of Turkish families 'who, without arabas or beasts
of burden, had taken shelter in the deserted houses. >
I inquired of one of these families where they had come from,
and they said that they left Plevna five months ago, and since
that time they had been on the road, and for the past few weeks:
in a great camp, which we should find further on towards
Hermanli. For many days they had been entirely without
bread or even Indian corn, and had existed solely on the flesh
of the cattle that fell on the road. I gave them all the bread
I could get hold of, and they ate it like starved creatures,

THE DESERTED BIVOUAC. 389
crying for joy. The grandmother, father,' and mother, with
an infant at the breast, and a small boy of ten years, had not
a single shoe between them, and their only baggage consisted
of a few old torn bedquilts, and a kettle to boil meat in.
They were in great distress of mind, because the house they
occupied did not belong to them, and not having any means
of transport they were unable to proceed further until fine
weather should begin. The only consolation I could give
them was the assurance that they would receive nothing but
kindness from the Russians, and would probably find their
house in Plevna unburned.
At every step beyond Haskioi we met new and more horrifying
scenes ; man and wife lying side by side on the same blanket,
with two children curled upon the snow near, all frozen dead ;
old men with their heads half cut off; some Bulgarians
mutilated as only the Turks know how to mutilate, and on
each side of the road, broad continuous bivouacs deserted in
haste, strewn with household effects. For many miles we
had been trampling in the mud, carpets, bedding, and clothing.
Now the highway was literally paved with bundles, cushions,
blankets, and every imaginable article of household use.
Broken arabas, too, began to multiply, and as we approached
the httle village of Tirali, we saw in the distance, on either
side of the road, a perfect forest of wheels, reaching to the
river on the right, and spreading away up the hillsides on the
left. Several dead Turkish soldiers, and one or two Russians,
showed that there had been a Httle skirmish there ; and we
rode into the midst of the great deserted bivouac, the horses
walking on rich carpets and soft draperies, aU crushed and
trampled in the mud.
Che scene was at once so unique in its general aspect, so terribly
' impressive, so eloquent of suffering and disaster to innocent
people, that I hesitate to attempt a description of it. Hundreds
of acres were covered with household goods. All along the
river bank, following the windings of the road, over the hUl,
and across the fields where the road makes a sharp turn,
reached this bivouac, at least three miles in extent, and of
varying width. Over this great tract the arabas were standing
as closely as they could, with their oxen placed together.

390 . WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
The frames of the carts were in most cases broken to piece,
Sick cattle wandered listlessly about among the wheel:
Corpses of men, women, and children lay about near ever
araba, and the whole ground was carpeted with clothing
kitchen utensils, books, and bedding.
It was a pitiable sight to see an old, grey- bearded Turk lyinj
with his open Koran beside him, splashed with blood froi
ghastly gashes in his bared throat. Bundles of rags an
clothes nearly all held dead babies. Crowds of Bulgarian
swarmed in this great Avenue of Death and Desolation
choosing the best of the carts, and carrying away grea
loads of copper vessels, which lay about in profusion, and mud
soiled bedding, with no more respect for the dead than for thi
rags they lay on. These scavengers would drive their cart
across the heads of dead women and old men without even ;
glance of curiosity at the bodies.
I had given up counting the dead non-combatants early on
the previous day, having reached the sum of 200, so I did
not continue the enumeration on the day in question, but 1
should say that at least 500 lay in the bivouac ; certainly no
less than 15,000 carts had halted there, large as the number
may seem, and at least 75,000 people had deserted the whole
of their possessions and had run away, with only what they
could carry in their hands. Sickened by the continuation of
the ghastly panorama for so many hours, we rode on to
Hermanli, not leaving the last of the horribly mutilated
corpses until we reached the very edge of the village.
At HermanH we learned for the first time the story of the
bivouac. It seems that the advance of the cavalry had
been checked at different villages on the roads by the very
determined resistance of the armed population, who fought
with fury. There were seven repetitions of the little scene
which occurred near Philippopolis, where the inhabitants fled
with the Turkish soldiers, and men and women fired volleys
upon the Russians. At Derbent, a short distance on the road
between Philippopolis and HermanH, when the Hussion
cavalry entered after a sharp Httle skirmish, they were
fired upon, and several killed and wounded, from a little
stone house. All efforts to parley with the Turks concealed

FEROCIOUS RESISTANCE. 391
there resulted in loss of life, and at last, after several peasants
had been shot in the attempt to persuade the inmates to
surrender, cannon were brought to bear upon the house, and
shells exploded inside, which set it on fire. The defenders
were driven out, and advanced upon the mass of soldiers,
firing as they came. Of course they were shot immediately.
There were only three peasants in all who made this desperate
resistance in their fortress. This incident shows the spirit
that animated the Turks to resist the advance of the
Russians, and the history of the great bivouac proves the
extent and force of the panic which seized those who ran

When the Russian cavalry came in sight of the bivouac there
were one or two battalions of Turkish infantry stationed
there, as rearguard, but they dispersed and retired with little
attempt at resistance, and a squadron was sent into the great
assembly of waggons to find out what it was. They rode on
without receiving a single shot until they were right along
side, and within a very few paces of the train of arabas
occupying the road, when from behind these waggons, out
from under the rude coverings, and from all sides came a
rattling volley, which emptied some saddles. Then it became
evident that ferocious resistance was to be made, so this
squadron retired, and preparations were made to attack the
collection of waggons, for it sheltered not only the rearguard,
but also no one knew how many armed peasants ; but before
the attack began in earnest the panic caught in the bivouac
and spread like wildfire. The immense band of refugees ran
away with the soldiers to the mountains, leaving cattle, carts,
andaU their movables which they could not seize upon at the
moment.
The cause of the panic was the appearance of Skobeleff's
cavalry in the, valley of the Maritza, in front of the bivouac.
The result of it was doubtless the death of thousands upon
thousands of Turkish peasants, who are now in the mountains
without clothing or food. Still, another result of the flight
is the enrichment of all the Bulgarians in the neighbourhood,
for the smoke of the first firing had not cleared away when
these ever-watchful individuals pounced down upon all the

392 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
cattle the soldiers did not drive off, and carried away hundreds
of carts laden with plunder.
This complete catastrophe is bewildering in its dimensions. Of
the 75,000 people, only a few thousands with their arabas
were turned back towards their homes by the Russians. I
have told how we met them on the road. The rest escaped
with f ooHsh precipitation, following the impulses of unreason
able fear, easily comprehensible under the circumstances.
Their fate is not yet known, but it may easily be conjectured.
The route between Philippopolis and Hermanli should bear
for all time the name of the Road of the Dead.
It is discouraging to believe that the scenes I have described
may be repeated as we proceed towards Constantinople, for
a short time ago long waggon trains of refugees passed
through Adrianople on their way towards Stamboul, and
filled the street here for weeks, day and night, with a slowly-
moving caravan. When asked where they were going, very
few of these people could answer. They only knew that
they must get away as fast as possible, and they were so
distracted with terror, that when their arabas broke down
even in the streets of Adrianople, they left their baggage
and hurried away without it. Many of these fugitives have
been turned back by the Russian cavaHy, and as I write the
street is filled with arabas still moving along through the
cold rain and darkness, most of the women on foot without
shoes, every one completely drenched, half-starved, and ex
hausted.
The howling of the storm makes a wild accompaniment to the
cries of infants and the screeching of the wheels as they pass.
There is no hopes of any succour for these unfortunates.
The small fund which remained in the hands of the Com
mittee here charged with the relief of the suffering Turks
has, I believe, been all distributed, either in money or in food
and clothing, and there is nothing to do but to let these
people struggle on to their villages as best they may. It is
safe to prophesy that but a small proportion will ever reach
their homes in this severe winter weather, and against the
tide of the advnncing army trains, and once in their villages
they have neither food, nor money to buy any, if there be

A FIELD FOR PHILANTHROPISTS. 393
any to sell after the Russian army has passed. If peace be
soon declared, and the present panic cease, there is still a
gloomy future for these fugitives in a land where there is
certain to be a scarcity of crops for lack of men and cattle to
cultivate, and a promise of pestilence when the warm weather
comes. The peculiar nature of the war has made it impossible
to avert the partial ruin of the people where the armies have
passed, but I believe the exodus of the Turkish population,
which has resulted so disastrously, might have been easily
prevented. The refugees might have been stopped as far back
as Sofia if Suleiman Pacha had not ordered them on in
advance of his army.
However, it is much easier to-day to blame than to find a source
of relief for the sufferers. There is no better field for the
philanthropist than European Turkey at the present time,
and as the great needs of the refugees, both Bulgarian and
Turkish, are bread and the common articles of food, the
assistance may be direct and easily given.
The next letter throws some light upon the causes of the
Turkish belief in English intervention : —
: : Constantinople, January 12th. — I see that some of your con
temporaries have been calling attention to the mischievous
effect upon the Turks of the belief that, provided they will
refuse terms of peace, England is bound to come to their aid.
Your columns have repeatedly contained similar warnings.
. The special reason for calling attention to this evil at the
present time arises out of the widespread rumour which I
telegraphed to you a fortnight ago, that Mr. Layard had ex
pressed an opinion similar to that mentioned above. About
the existence of the rumour and its widespread character
there can be no doubt whatever. But the belief in English
aid is one which, as your readers will remember, I called
attention to months before Mr. Layard came here. One of
your contemporaries attributes it to Embassy gossip and the
statements of members of the English colony who are " more
philo-Turk than the Turks." At first sight what the English

394 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
colony thinks and says is not of much importance. But as
the Turks gather English opinion from it, its opinion has a
certain value. As the question, moreover, has been raised of
what that opinion is, it may be of interest to state it so far
as I can.
The colony consists of Englishmen in Turkish employ, and of
others who are engaged in business. It may be safely said
that, as a rule, those belonging to the first-class are more
philo-Turk than the Turks. As their bread depends upon
the continued existence of Turkey, it would be remarkable
if it were otherwise. Among those who axe engaged in
business there are, of course, a great number whose business
binds their interests with that of the Turks, so that the
number of Englishmen in Constantinople who are really in
dependent, in the sense of having no interest in the mainte
nance of the Empire, and especially in its solvency, is exceed
ingly small. Bearing in mind this fact, it is astonishing how
little philo-Turkism there is among this portion of the colony.
Looking to their own interests alone there is hardly a man
among them who would not be directly benefited by a war
in which England should fight on the side of Turkey.
For the English colony in Constantinople the traditions of the
Crimean war are traditions of lavish expenditure, of reckless
waste of English money, and of glorious opportunities of
making fortunes. In case of such a war there would be
contracts to be made by the hundred, which, of course,
Englishmen on the spot would have the best chance of get
ting ; there would be speculations of various kinds with a
certainty of profit to those who have local knowledge ; ships
to be chartered at high rates ; money to be lent to the Turks
to be squandered even more wildly than an English War De
partment can squander money in time of war, and plenty of
jobbery and backsheesh where the money would slide into
English banking accounts. It would be difficult to point out
an English resident in Constantinople to whom a war with
England on the side of Turkey would not be, or appear to be,
a certain source of large additional gain.
Remembering these things, it would not be very surprising if
the English colony were rabid philo-Turks. The fact is, how-

CONDITION OF TURKEY. 395
ever, that the great majority of them are not. A thermo
meter might be made of philo-Turkism, at the warmest end
of which the officials in Turkish employ would naturally
figure, though it must be said to the credit of one or two of
them that they would be very far down on the scale ; and at
the other end, below zero, would be those who have abso
lutely no interest one way or the other in the result of the
present war. Among the non-officials an impartial observer
would, I think, be struck with the absence of strong partizan-
ship for the Turks. Notwithstanding that each of them
would in the event of England's intervention be pretty cer
tain of having what the Americans term a good time, the
desire for English interference does not belong to the non-
official members of the community.
If the hard-headed Scotchmen and North-countrymen who
would inevitably, in case of English interference, make that
little pUe which they are waiting to make before they return
to their native land, were asked why they are not in the
number of philo-Turks, their answer would be something
like this : " Putting aside the oppression which we know the
Christians of the Empire have to undergo, the whole com
munity, Moslem and Christian alike, is suffering, and has
been suffering for years past, from intolerably bad govern
ment ; there is crushing extortion, there are harassing exac
tions, entire want of security for property, and even of life.
Land is going out of cultivation, whole villages have dis
appeared within the last twenty years, large tracts of land
which once sent valuable crops to the market have ceased to
be profitable. The roads in the country have not been im
proved, the condition of the people has become desperate.
We merchants see our interest in a change of government
forced upon the Turks which shall enable the large resources
of the country to be developed, and certainly know too much
of the sufferings of the people to sympathize with the selfish
knot of pachas caUed the Government, which exists mainly
to wring the utmost from all classes of the Sultan's subjects.
In doing injury to Turkey they have done and are doing
injury to us. To support the Turks means to support the
oppression of the Turkish Government, and we," some of

396 ¦ WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
them would have a good right to add, " while we are and
have been good friends to the poorer Turks, have every
interest to sympathize with any change which will rid the
territory or any part of it of this oppression."
Let it be said also that there are not a few in the English
' colony who would take the absurdly sentimental and narrow-
minded view that in the Eastern Question right is on one
side, and wrong on the other, and would put this question of
right and wrong above the consideration of even British
interests, or possibly their own fortunes. Such men are not
philo-Turks, and not having Lord Beaconsfield's regard for
. British interests, or even their own interests, so closely at
heart as they ought to have, can only be mentioned apolo
getically.
But it is obviously with the Englishmen in the Turkish service,
and certainly the officials in the English service, that the
Turks belonging to the governing class come mostly in con
tact. These, beyond a doubt, are as. a rule more Turkish
than the Turks, and their influence in representing English
public opinion has been and is simply and purely mischievous.
They wish that England should help Turkey. They lead
themselves to believe that England means to help Turkey.
They tell the Turks that England is going to help Turkey.
As a rule, officials who have been for a long time in a foreign
service have forgotten the traditions of their native land, and
those in Turkey have tried to beUeve, until quite recently, and
still cling fondly to their faith, that we are in the period of
the Crimean War. Englishmen who have been absent from
their country for a number of years too often become
Conservative in a sense which would be as offensive to Sir
Stafford Northcote as to Mr. Gladstone, and it becomes un
fortunate for the Turks that their information as to English
opinion has to come from men who, in spite of facts, cannot
be brought to believe that England has changed her mind
since the Crimean days. It must be remembered also that
the whole traditions of our consular service in Turkey are
absolutely vicious.
It appears to be an article of belief with the provincial consuls
that as the first duty of the English Ambassador is to pro-

THE ENGLISH CONSULS. 397
tect Turkey, nothing against the Turks will be acceptable at
the Embassy. There wanted no inducement of this kind in
Constantinople to make the Consuls pro- Turkish. Other
causes help to do that in far too great a degree to be satisfac
tory. The Consul or Vice-Consul in his own jurisdiction is a
considerable personage. A Consul in France or in Spain holds
a greatly inferior position in popular estimation. In a
Turkish province the Consul is on an equality with the
governor of the town, has official relations with him and the
other Turkish officials, is a sort of king over the subjects of
the district in which he reigns, and has willingly granted to
him a position which to a considerable extent cuts him off
from association with the Christians. Of course it is to the
interest of the governor and other officials to make every
thing pleasant to the English consul, and equally of course
the consul is delighted with the gentlemanly Turk, and
objects to the Greek or the Armenian, who is always giving
him trouble.
If I were asked to name the most unreasoning and unreasonable
philo-Turk whom it has been my lot to meet, I should pro
bably name an English Consul in European Turkey. Without
mentioning his name, I may take him as a specimen of the
influences which surround a man in an official position in this
country. 1 have never heard anything unfavourable of this
particular consul. On the contrary, I believe him to be
possessed, of a good deal of kindness of heart. But he be
lieves that it is a sin to say anything against the Turks. It
is a crime to say anything in favour of the Christians. The
name of Bulgarian, and probably of Greek too, stinks in his
nostrils, and I should be surprised if he did not regard
any one who rose against Turkish rule as rather worse than a
Communist.
Yet the opinions thus held are, to a great extent, the result of
circumstances, are prejudices rather than opinions deliberately
formed. Take a very young man, possibly of Levantine ori
gin, and therefore with an education almost necessarily
defective, send him as assistant to some out-of-the-way place
in Syria or Armenia, and change him to some other place say
every five years — at the age of forty what kind of man is he

398 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
likely to have become ? The prejudices of the service will
be exclusively phUo-Turk ; his pleasant experiences will be
mostly derived from the Turks ; his troubles, where he has
had to inquire into some wearisome and stupid complaint of
a Christian who has been injured in some way or other, will
have come from the Christians. He wUl probably at forty
have lost the habit of reading English newspapers, and will
be more completely ignorant of English poHtics than hundreds
of agricultural labourers in Devonshire ; but in exchange
will have got a firmly-rooted belief that English policy stands
where it did when he began life, and will tell his Turkish
friends that come what may, England, in spite of what the
ambassador may say in his official despatches, is quite sure to
come to their aid.
The firm faith of the Turks in English intervention, in so far
as it is due to English opinion in Constantinople, is derived
also from the opinions of English visitors. The Turks have
certainly great reason to complain of the assurances which
have been held out to them by certain English visitors. One
man in particular, who spends a considerable time here, and
whose great wealth enabled him to command access to all the
Turks, is believed to have had a very large share in inducing
the Government to reject the proposals of the Conference.
It was openly stated at the time that he was using his utmost
endeavours in this direction, and his exertions were strongly
condemned by other Englishmen here of every shade of poli
tical opinion. Two visitors, both men of considerable posi
tion, were, a few weeks ago, at the Imperial Ministry of
Marine, and similarly did their utmost to persuade Said
Pacha that England would certainly come to the help of
Turkey. It would seem that a number of men who come
here think it polite to talk this kind of nonsense to the
Turks, and that they cannot or will not see that to endeavour
to persuade the Turks to continue the war is not merely mis
chievous, but is to lure them on to their destruction.
And now, while on the causes of the belief in English interven
tion, let me mention one more. The telegrams which have
been sent from Europe during the last six months have almost
always had a Turkish bias. In numberless instances the tele-

DEPARTURE FROM KESANLIK. 399
grams have turned out to be more favourable to the Turks
than the facts warranted. Poor Turk ! He has been lured
into the war and to its continuance, to his own dire injury,
by those who were foolish enough to call themselves his
friends.

CHAPTER XV.
THE RUSSIANS IN ADRIANOPLE.
Snow Storm in the Shipka Pass. —The Bulgarian Dogs. —A Child Victim. — The
Lesser Balkans. — Eski-Zagra. — Colonel Polivanoff. — A Hospitable Reception.
— Ized Bey. — Comfortable Lodgings. — A Luxurious Bath. — Comfort of the
Turkish Dwellings. — Adrianople. — Arrival of the Grand Duke Nicholas. — •
Tbe Peace Negotiation. — The Autonomy of Bulgaria refused by the Turks.
— Continued Cruelties towards the Bulgarians. — Horrible Condition .of Slivno.
— Wholesale Hanging of the Inhabitants by Order of Suleiman Pacha. —
Cruelty of Sadyk Bey. — Intercession of the Metropolitan. — Notable Bul
garians sent in Chains to Constantinople. — Exiled to Boli. — Feeling in Con
stantinople. — Approach of the English Fleet. — Admiral Hornby returns to
Besika Bay. — -Excitement of the Turks. — Hopes of English Intervention. —
False Rumours. — Comments of the Levant Herald. — .'Discontent in Con
stantinople. — The Greek Refugees. — Ominous Signs. — Enormous Influx of
Refugees. — Terrible Distress. — The International Committee. — Anxiety of
the Ambassadors.
The following letters complete the narrative of the rapid and
decisive advance of the armies under Generals Radetsky and
Skobeleff upon Adrianople.
t Skobeleff's Headquarters, Tchataldja, February 5th. — It was
snowing hard when I left Kezanlik, although the temperature
was hardly below the freezing point, while a fearful snow
storm was raging in the Shipka Pass, where the mountains
were enshrouded in clouds and storm. The wall of the
Balkans rose up dark and threatening on my left, until lost
in the lowering sky, and seemed to present a mysterious
impassable barrier between the valley of the Tundja and
Northern Bulgaria.
The valley, white with a Hght fall of snow, presented a very

400 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
different spectacle when I passed along this same road with
General Gourko last July. Then there was the noise of the
tread of an army ; clouds of dust and smoke covering and
shadowing the green fields ; the rattle of musketry ; the
booming of cannon; the din of -battle; the hurry and
excitement of one army fighting and pursuing another.
Now all was silent and deserted almost as a graveyard.
Skobeleff had swept over this road three days before, and
left no stragglers and no trace of his passage, and the light
snowfall had covered up his tracks. Anybody going along
the road now would hardly suppose, without knowing it,
that a whole army corps had just passed before him. There
is no sign of life anywhere. No columns of blue smoke
arising from the many villages that once covered the valley ;
nobody working in the fields ; no waggons drawn by oxen
plodding slowly along the roads ; no cattle or sheep grazing
in the fields. Silent, white, and cold is the broad valley ; i
as dead and cold as many hundreds of its own inhabi
tants, whose houses are now buried indeed, but only by the
snow.
I forgot ; there is some sign of life, and that is those strange, j
savage animals, the Bulgarian dogs, half woH, half dog,
apparently, that may now be seen everywhere aU over Bul
garia, living in the fields and along the roads, wandering
about without masters and without homes in a wretched
forlorn way that is striking. A dog without a master and
without a shelter is scarcely a less forlorn and wretched
being than a man without a house or a home. They live on
the bodies of the cattle and horses that have fallen and died
by the wayside, and sometimes on even finer fare ! they seem
to be half-way back on the road to a state of nature, and
many will no doubt take to the mountains in the spring,
herd together, and turn to wolves, which they already
resemble. But they have not yet reached the stage of
herding together. Two are never seen in company; they
wander about in a lonely desolate way, slinking off at tbfl
approach of men, afraid of mankind and afraid of each;
other. They have their death list, too. One sees numbers
of them dead along the road, some shot and speared by the

THE DEAD CHILD. 401
Cossacks out of mere sport, others starved, or poisoned by the
carrion on which they feed, the greater part frozen to
death by the fierce storm in spite of their great fur coats.
The road was a sad and dreary one, marked as it was at every
step by the bodies of dead dogs, dead horses, dead oxen — dead
of hunger, of cold, of exhaustion, in every attitude of suffering,
where the poor brutes struggled on to the last until they fell
in their tracks under the cruel relentless loads that they
carried. There were other dead, too. Once I came upon
the body of a man lying prone in a ditch by the road with a
fearful sabre gash in the head, and another time on the body
of a chUd four or five years old lying in the snow with
closed eyes and rosy face, as though asleep. The legs and
feet were bare, and the attitude was so lifelike and so calm
that I got down from my horse, thinking that it might not
yet be dead. I laid my hand on the little face ; it was hard,
and cold as ice. There was no mark of violence, and it had
evidently been frozen to death.
I found two or three villages that had not been burnt ; they
were Turkish, as the lattice windows of the houses indicated ;
but they were silent and deserted. Three hours' trot brought
me into the Lesser Balkans, a low range of mountains that
bound the Tundja Valley on the south. Here I overtook a
number of fugitives trudging wearily along through the mud
and snow. There were thirty or forty of them, men, women,
and children, Bulgarians and Turks, going along together,
on most neighbourly terms apparently, and all loaded with
household effects — a coverlet or two, a pot or a frying pan,
1 provisions, a bag of flour or rice, and other articles.
Nearly every man and woman, in addition to other things,
, carried a chUd too young to walk, and even some of the chil
dren that were old enough to walk were being carried. I
noticed one little girl in particular, who could have been
scarcely more than ten, trudging sturdUy and patiently along
with a baby strapped on her back.
These people had come from Gabrova, where they had fled
before the advance of Suleiman last summer, and they had'
crossed the Balkans, children and all, by that fearful Shipka
¦ Pass. If that little girl carried that babe over the Balkans,
VOL. II. D D

402 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
as seems probable, then neither Skobeleff nor Gourko need
boast of their achievements. The little girl accomplished
what was in comparison a more difficult task. They were
all going to Eski-Zagra, to try and settle down again in their
ruined homes, and probably little prepared for the ruin and
devastation that awaited them there.
Eski-Zagra was one of those pretty Bulgarian towns of which
there were a number on the southern side of the Balkans,
like Slivno, Kezanlik, Karlova, flourishing and prosperous,
that were the pride of the Bulgarians. It was about three-
fourths Bulgarian and one-fourth Turkish, and with the
exception of fifteen or twenty houses in the Turkish quarter
it is now a heap of ruins. The Bulgarian part was fired by
the Bashi-Bazouks and the Circassians, and the fire spreading
to the Turkish quarter destroyed it likewise, even to the
mosque. The houses were nearly aH of that pretty airy
construction of which the people in this country are so fond
— half stone, haH wood, with high, airy rooms, a multitude
of windows, curious little nooks and corners turned into bay
windows, balconies, porches, opening to the south, with
gardens and courts, planted with fruit trees, through which
flowed streams of clear cold water fresh from the springs of
the Lesser Balkans. The clear fresh water stiU flows on,
and one sees it bubbling forth from among the heaps of
stones everywhere, and even out of the broken walls, show
ing that the finer houses had water appliances in nearly every
room. The CHcassians and Bashi-Bazouks must have obtained
a rich booty here.
I called on Colonel Polivanoff, the commandant for the moment,
who had already been here two or three days, to see what
were the prospects of obtaining a lodging for the night in
one of the few houses that remained. I found that I had
just been preceded by two Turkish officers arriving from
Constantinople with letters for Namyk and Server Pachas, at
Kezanlik. We were all most cordially received by the kind-
hearted old colonel, and treated to the best he had — some
bread and cheese, a glass of cognac, a cup of coffee, and a
cigar from the last row in the bottom of the box. The two
Turkish officers were Ized Bey and Achmet Bey, and they

comfortable lodgings. 403
both spoke French fluently. Ized is, as he informed us, the
grandson of Fuad Pacha, and the brother-in-law of the
Khedive of Egypt. He was very talkative and communi
cative, resembling a Parisian rather than a Turk in his
manner, voice, and fluency of speech — altogether a very
agreeable feUow. He did not seem to be much depressed by
the misfortunes of his country, spoke freely of the ups and
downs of the war, in which he seems to have taken a very
active part, and appeared to regard it rather in the light of a
highly-interesting game of chess in which his side lost. His
manner, in short, formed a great contrast to that of Tefik Bey
after the fall of Plevna.
I found lodgings in an abandoned Turkish house. Some
Cossacks had just quitted the place and left a large wood fire
burning in the chimney. What was my delight upon
exploring the room I took possession of to find it opened into
a miniature bath room, which I at first sight took for a cup
board or clothes-press, clean and dry and warm, with water
in two large earthern jars set in the waU, and already heated
by the fire in the chimney. A luxurious bath so handy as
this, after a long day's ride through the snow and cold, is a
thing not to be found anywhere else but in Turkey. There
is no people in the world but the Turks who understand the
art of Hving. A traveller may arrive tired, dust covered,
and weary in the best hotels of Europe, after twenty-four
hours in a smoke-begrimed railway-train, and ten chances to
one the only appliance for a bath that he can find will be a
hand-basin, with a quart of cold water, and he would hardly
be better off in nine-tenths of the private houses.
Yet the owner of this house could hardly have been more than
a simple peasant. The house was not even a fine one for
this country. The walls were plastered with mud ; the floor
was of earth ; the divans around the walls, now without
cushion or rug, were of simple unpainted boards, loosely
nailed up. The house itself, consisting of four rooms, and
built of unhewn stones and unpainted wood, would be
considered a disgrace and an eyesore in any village in England
or France ; and yet for comfort, for all sorts of ingenious
appliances in snug little nooks and corners, that had been
D D 2

404 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
evidently carpeted and curtained, in closets and cupboards,
curiously carved wooden shelves and niches let in the wall,
the bath, the little balcony to which you ascend from the
porch by three or four steps, and where yon can sit and look
out on the fruit trees in the court, and take your coffee and
smoke your cigar or your narghili — everything so primitive
in contrivance and construction, yet breathing a spirit of
comfort and homely well-being not to be found in a European
house that cost ten or twenty times the money.
I took my bath, made my tea, roasted a piece of mutton by the
blazing wood fire in tbe chimney, supped, spread my blanket
on the wooden divan, wrapped myself in a fur cloak, and
stretched myseH out to repose with the silence of the deserted
house broken only by the sound of my horses comfortably
crunching their hay outside my window, thought I had never
been so well off in the best Paris hotel, and wondered where
were the late inmates of the house, and where they were
sleeping.
But there is no happiness without alloy. " There's a poison
drop in man's purest cup." In spite of the warm bath and
the blazing fire, the imprint of that icy little face was almost
as distinct on my hand after five hours as when I touched
it to see if it were not perhaps alive. My thoughts wandered
forth to that frozen heath, and I saw the poor little form
lying there in the snow and the darkness as plainly, more
plainly even than if I had been on the spot — the rosy childish
face and legs, the black and swollen feet. WHat a picture of
childish suffering and despair ! That poor little mite,
abandoned, forgotten, lost by father and mother in the
hurried flight, wandering on in the darkness and snow with
that helpless look of fear and despair so heartrending in a
child, until the little bare feet, frozen to ice, could go no
more, falling in the snow, and freezing to death in the dark
ness of that desolate heath. And this is not one isolated case,
there are hundreds of them.
t Adrianople, January 27th. — The Grand Duke Nicholas has
just arrived, accompanied by the Turkish Ambassadors. The
whole population turned out to meet him, and gave him a

HITCH IN THE PEACE NEGOCIATIONS. 405
cordial reception, though not the noisy one which Tirnova
gave him last year.
Nothing has yet been concluded with regard to peace negotia
tions, the Turkish delegates having refused to accept the
Russian terms. The Grand Duke Nicholas and M. Nelidoff,
as I informed you in my previous telegram, had no power to
discuss conditions. They simply offered their terms, and
gave the Turks the alternative of acceptance or refusal.
After two days' negotiations the Turks decided to refuse,
although the Grand Duke and M. Nelidoff used every argu
ment to persuade them to accept, informing them that the
march of the armies would be stopped the moment they
consented, and that their refusal was the destruction of the
Turkish EmpHe, which Russia had no wish to bring about.
They were informed that Adrianople and Philippopolis were
taken, the army of Suleiman completely destroyed, and that
the Russians would continue to march upon Constantinople
unless they accepted. ',
Namyk Pacha exclaimed, " Well, then, if the Ottoman Empire
must perish, let it perish by force. We will never- sign our
own death-warrant."
He was, however, induced to reconsider this decision, and he
and Server Pacha asked two hours for reflection. At the
end of this time they answered that they could not accept.
The Grand Duke started the next day for Adrianople.
Both the Russians and the Turks decline to tell me the con
ditions, but I have been able to obtain them indirectly. As
they are probably well known in Europe by this time, I will
not state them in detail, but only refer to those parts more
particularly requiring mention.
Although the Turks object more or less to all the conditions,
the one which prevented the agreement was the Bulgarian
autonomy. They were ready to yield every other point but
this, which they consider equivalent to the destruction of the
Turkish power in Europe. They were willing to grant
autonomy, as provided for in the programme of the Con
ference. The Russians replied to this that the programme
of the Conference was the minimum reduced to the most
slender proportions in order to avoid war. As this object

406 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
was not obtained, they must now demand a far more efficient
kind of autonomy, something like that of Servia and Ron-
mania, with Bulgaria extending very near Constantinople on
one side, and to Salonica on the other. This is, of course,
the extinction of Turkish power everywhere in Europe,
except merely Constantinople. This they would not accept.
They were willing to cede Kars and Erzeroum, willing to
grant the complete independence of Roumania and Servia,
the free passage of the Straits to the Russian fleet, and a
war indemnity, but not the autonomy of Bulgaria.
It was just on this point the Russians were the most rigid.
They left all the other questions for ulterior discussion,
apparently recognizing the fact that all those questions
concerned Europe, and not Russia and Turkey alone. On
the one question of Bulgarian autonomy only were they
inflexible. There was no question of the cession of the
Turkish fleet, though of course that might arise in ulterior
discussions on the question of a war indemnity. The whole
course of the negotiations shows that although Russia wishes
to conclude direct peace with Turkey, she considers that part
of the conditions of that peace are to be afterwards discussed,
and may be modified by Europe. These conditions are evi
dently a cession of territory in Asia, the question of the
Straits, and a war indemnity. Although she means to force
the Turks to consent to these things in principle, she expects
to refer to Europe for their confirmation and application. In
this way Russian diplomacy offers no hold to the English
Government to seize as a pretext for war. Even Lord
Beaconsfield will hardly attempt to go to war to prevent
Bulgarian autonomy, the only question on which the Russians
are inflexible.
t Adrianople, January 28th. — They have received as yet no
answer from the Porte either accepting or refusing the
Russian terms. This will, of course, necessitate a forward
movement towards Constantinople on the part of the
Russians. Until the Turks accept their conditions they
must, of course, prosecute the campaign with unrelenting
vigour. What complications this may result in it is of

CONTINUED PERSECUTIONS. 407
course impossible to foretell, but the Russians seem inclined
to accept them, whatever they may be. If the Turks could
have been induced to accept the Bulgarian autonomy, the
Russians would undoubtedly have halted at Adrianople, as
they are evidently willing to discuss all other questions in a
conciliatory spirit. As it is, their cavalry is far on its way
to Constantinople.
The letters below present a vivid picture of the persecu
tions of the Bulgarians by their oppressors, continued long
after the exposure of the outrages which excited so strong a
feeling throughout the civUized world : —
: : Constantinople, January 11th. — Probably the report upon
which Mr. Consul Blunt and others have been engaged for
months with the object of making England believe that great
atrocities have been committed by the Russians and Bulga
rians will by this time have been published. It should be
taken as the supreme effort which can be made to rake up
every story telling in this direction. I have, of course, not
seen the report, but anticipate that the great labour wUl have
produced a very small mouse.
The truth is, all the talk about atrocities has been, during the
last few months, si Httle stale and stupid. In 1876 the
Moslem outrages in Bulgaria called down the indignation
of England. They were proved beyond possibility of
reasonable denial, and no effort of Mr. Layard or anybody
else to throw doubt upon them can have the slightest hope of
success. Thereupon the Turks took it into their heads that
they could get a cry in their favour by alleging cruelties on
the part of Russians and Bulgarians. They have gone hope
lessly on trying to magnify trifles, and to persuade England
that they are the innocent people, and their enemies the real
doers of these iniquities. But they have so completely, so
ludicrously failed that, in spite of their telegrams, their
pamphlets, and other abortive attempts, I, for one, have never
felt called upon to attempt a reply. Their charges often
enough carried their own contradiction upon them. Now,

408 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
however, the Turks have begun their old game, and during
the last month have been ruthlessly hanging dozens of people
because they were Bulgarians. The game in Bulgaria is very
nearly played out, and if Englishmen knew what it was there
would not be a hundredth part of the favourers of Turkey
that now exist. The following letter, written from Slivno,
tells its own tale, and could in all essential particulars be
confirmed by every newspaper correspondent here. Let it
speak for itself : —
" Slivno, December 24th. — The town presents a lamentable
spectacle. More than 5,000 Bulgarian women and children
from the devastated villages in the neighbourhood, naked
and barefooted, are wandering through the town, begging
alms and dying from hunger and from cold. The prisons are
full of innocent Bulgarians, from the town as well as from
the neighbouring villages, and almost every day about half a
dozen of them are hanged.
" Since Suleiman Pacha passed through Slivno (toward the
end of September) nearly 1,000 persons have been hanged
in the midst of the town. When this general arrived there
were many Bulgarians imprisoned for sUght causes, who
would have been kept for a short time in prison and set at
liberty. But Suleiman, not satisfied with this, after he had
hanged a great number of innocent villagers, commanded
these Bulgarian prisoners to be hanged also. On the day on
which he had to leave the town, in order to make his
departure as triumphant as possible, he commanded to be
hanged in the street through which he had to pass thirty-
five Bulgarians at once. Such was the triumphant gate
through which the famous general thought he ought to

" Suleiman Pacha departed, but with this the hangings did not
cease. He found an able successor in the person of Sadyk
Bey, the President of the CouncU of War in Slivno. This
man, invested with unlimited power, perpetrates the most
arbitrary acts ; he hangs and arrests whomsoever he pleases.
Among the imprisoned there are many natives of the town,
honest and rich merchants, who never during their life have

wholesale executions. 409
been imprisoned, and who, although innocent, only by giving
large sums of money to Sadyk Bey have been able to save
themselves from the gallows. The majority of the imprisoned
Bulgarians are from the devastated villages in the neighbour
hood, and though almost every day a number of them are
hanged, new persons replace them, so that the prisons remain
always full. Those who are condemned to be hanged are
neither asked nor told their crime (because, in fact, they are
innocent). They are simply told — ' To-day you will be
hanged,' and the sentence is immediately executed.
" I heard many of those innocent villagers, while being con
veyed to the gallows, exclaim — ' Is there no God to protect
me from these butchers, who, without asking me a word,
without telling me my fault, wish to kill me so unmerci
fully ? '
" The inhabitants here, who became accustomed to hear such
words, began to look upon the Divinity with horror, and even
to become sceptical as to the existence of a Deity. ' If there
were a God, they say, even if this God were of stone, he would
hear the voices of the innocent who daily perish to satisfy
the pleasure of a ruffian.' .... Taking in view that the
majority of the persons daily hanged are villagers from the
vdlages devastated by the Bashi-Bazouks, viz., from Yeni-
Zagra, Omartchevo, Bouhalieh, Courodjieh, &c, the real
cause of their hanging seems to be this : — The Government,
which knows perfectly well the barbarous manner in which
these vUlages were destroyed and the greater part of their
inhabitants massacred by the Bashi-Bazouks, does not wish
to leave living witnesses to tell in future the horrible tale.
"Last week our Metropolitan, Monsigneur Seraphim, touched,
it seems, by the lamentation and weeping of women and
chfldren whose husbands and fathers were imprisoned, and
before whom death was impending, resolved to go before the
: President of the Council of War, and to implore him to stop
the hanging of the innocent people. This venerable old man
presents himself before Sadyk Bey, falls on his knees before
him, and with tears begs him to have mercy upon the inno
cent, and to put an end to the hangings. Sadyk Bey promises
.. : that he will not hang any more. This message, like an

410 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
electric spark, was spread throughout the whole town, and
cheered the hearts of the disappointed Christian population.
But alas for him who believes the promise of the Turk ! On
the next day, in spite of the solemn promise of Sadyk Bey,
ten persons were hanged in the midst of the town !
" On the 12th inst. the notable Bulgarians from the town, in
number twenty-four persons, were arrested and thrown into
prison, where they were kept three days, and then sent to
Constantinople, chained together two by two by their hands,
being told only that they had been called by the Sublime
Porte, and from that time no one here knows what has hap
pened to them. This incident has embittered stiU more the
feelings of the people, because, they say, and justly, when
such men, who enjoy the confidence of the whole population
of the Sandjak, and of whom some are officers under the
Government — when such men are imprisoned in the damp
prisons, what hope remains for us ? As it wiU be seen from
the catalogue of their names, here enclosed, the majority of
them have passed the age of sixty, and are men grown old in
the service of the Government. Almost all of them, on
several occasions, and especiaUy lately, have contributed large
sums of money for the support of the Turkish army, and to i
many of them the Government owes considerable sums of
money. Such has been their zeal for the interests of the
Government, that the young Bulgarian party of Slivno often
used to call them Conservatives, and even Turkophiles.
These men the Government ought to reward for the services
they have done to it ; but instead of this, it imprisons them
in the damp prisons, and prepares for them the gaUows. No
one here knows positively the motive which has induced the
Turkish Government to treat in so unjust a manner these
notable Bulgarians (although many suppose it is for money) ;
but that which is well known, is that they cannot be guilty
of any other crime except that they are Bulgarians, and,
moreover, Bulgarian notables."
The above-mentioned notable Bulgarians arrived in Con
stantinople on the 18th of December, and were confined in
the damp prison of the Metirhaneh, where many of them
became ill. As soon as the Bulgarian Exarch, Monseigneur

EXILE OF BULGARIAN NOTABLES. 411
Joseph, received the intelligence of their arrival, he went to
the Grand Vizier, Edhem Pacha, to explain to him the
position of these persons, and to beg him to set them at
Liberty. The Grand Vizier promised to do so. When thus
their friends in Constantinople had been assured of their
deliverance, the prisoners were immediately exiled to Boli
(Asia Minor).
I saw these persons on the very day of their departure for Boli
(25th of December), and learned from them the contents of
the tesherek (or official order) with which they were sent from
the Council of War at Adrianople to the Musteshar of the
Zaptieh in Constantinople. It was to this effect, viz : — " As
these persons are the principal and influential Bulgarians of
Slivno, and as they are capable, by virtue of the influence
which they exercise, to originate in future an insurrection,
we send them to you to do with them what you know." It is
not necessary to add, that the conclusion of this teshereh is a
pure falsehood on the part of the CouncU of War, since it is
impossible for it not to know that these persons are incapable
of originating an insurrection or of being influenced by in
surrectional ideas ; but, on the contrary, it is quite sure that
they would employ all their influence for the suppression of
such schemes. Even supposing for a moment that the
Government had really any suspicion that they were capable
of originating an insurrection in future in that town, was it
just to treat them in such a manner ? Was it humane on
that ground to send them to die in the prisons of the interior
of Asia Minor ? Was there any danger for the Government
if it allowed them to live at least in Constantinople under
sure guarantee ? This proceeding cannot surprise those
who know the programme of the Turkish Government.
That programme is the annihilation of all intelligent, rich,
learned, and influential Bulgarians. Whether it wUl attain
its aim I doubt very much.
The foUowing letter exhibits a pretty complete view of the
state of affairs in Constantinople. The particulars of Admiral
Hornby's entry into the Dardanelles and subsequent recall are
too well known to require further explanation.

412 WAR CORRESPONDENCE. j
: : Constantinople, January 30th. — I have seldom known circum-
stances under which it has been so difficult to obtain trust
worthy information as it has been during the past fortnight
to know what has been the truth about the progress of the
negotiations for peace. Assertions have been confidently made
one day at the Embassies and in the newspapers only to be
contradicted the next. Just at the moment when everybody
believed that the preliminaries of peace, undoubtedly
accepted by the Sultan and his Council, had been signed by
the Turkish delegates and the Grand Duke Nicholas, came
the announcement that the English fleet had entered the
Dardanelles. Nobody understood it, or could guess at what
it meant. Its immediate effect was what might have been
anticipated. The Turks everywhere believed that at last
England was coming to their aid. It was expected by them
that the fleet would come at once to the Bosphorus. Word
was sent to the various Turkish police-stations to inform the
neighbourhood that the fleet would arrive about ten at night,
that a salute would be fired, and that nobody was to be alarmed
at the firing. Then a few hours after came the tidings that
the fleet had gone back again, and Turkish hopes fell ac
cordingly.
It remains to be seen whether the hope thus held out will
influence the negotiations. If the Turks are again deluded
into the belief that we are going to fight for them when we
are not, they will once more have to lay the blame upon Lord
Beaconsfield. I entirely agree with my philo-Turkish friends,
that but for His speeches and promises, official and unofficial,
of support, and but for his having sent here an Ambassador,
whose chief recommendation to the Turks was that he had
always been a bitter opponent of Russia and a strong believer;
in the capacity of the Turk for good government, the Turks
would never have been induced to enter upon the present war,
or, having entered upon it, to have continued it until now.
Unless England intends to fight, it is simply cruel to the
Turks to do anything which can foster the belief that we
are going to help them. Though not a single promise of aid
may have been given to the Turks in any despatch, it is be
yond question that the acts of our Government have led the

THE BRITISH FLEET. 413
Turks to believe we were going to fight for them. The fact,
moreover, that a similar belief has prevailed at times in every
Embassy or Legation at Constantinople is evidence that the
Turks were not altogether unjustified in coming to such a
conclusion.
Any one in this city who maintained that England had no
intention of helping Turkey, that except in certain remote
cases which were not likely to happen we should not fight
Russia, and that judging of English public opinion from the
leading newspapers, daily and weekly, especially taking those
ijj which, like Punch and others, are generally faithful barometers
of English pubHc opinion, England's determination was to
remain at peace, was set down as a fanatic. England would
change in a day when the Premier made up his mind for war,
and people gravely whispered that official despatches were
one thing, private arrangements another.
On the very day when the fleet came to the Dardanelles, it was
reported that Austrian troops had crossed the border in order
to attack the Russians. Thus in the midst of the negotiations
by. which they hoped to save Constantinople they were again
liable to be deluded into the belief of foreign aid. There
were others, I am bound to add, who believed that the fleet
which appeared in the Dardanelles was probably only coming
to protect the lives and property of foreign subjects. Had it
really been coming with this object, and had it been made
quite clear to the Turks that it was not coming either to help
them or to oppose the Russians, it would have been welcomed
by almost every one in Constantinople, the property-possessing
portion of the Turks included. The local correspondent of
the Levant Herald, writing from the Dardanelles on January
26, gives an account of the construction which was put upon
the arrival of the fleet by the Turks. Of course if the fleet
had not been sent to aid them, the delusion might soon have
been dispelled : —
Sesterday (Friday), a great state of excitement was aroused
amongst the inhabitants of this town by the report of the
approach of the British fleet. At half -past two o'clock in
the afternoon, the ships appeared in the distance, and by
4 p.m. the imposing spectacle was afforded of the fine fleet of

414 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
ten vessels nearing the narrows of the Straits. Crowds lined
the shores on both sides of the Hellespont. The enthusiasm
amongst the Turks was at its height. ' At last,' they said,
' the English are convinced the Russians are not fighting for
the Bulgarian Christians, and are coming to help us.' The
flagship of Vice-Admiral Hornby, the Sultan, was abreast the
Castles of the Dardanelles, when a boat put off from the
shore. Presently the fleet came to a standstill in midchannel,
the ships blowing off steam. H.M.S. Sultan saluted the
Turkish flag, and, the salute was immediately returned by
Fort Sultanieh — then, right about face, the whole of the
vessels steamed outside the Straits again, whence they had so
shortly before come. Disappointment was depicted on the
faces of the Turks. That boat was supposed to have con
veyed a telegram to counter-order the passage of the
Dardanelles by the fleet, and that supposed telegram had an
amount of imprecation invoked on its face fearful to con
template."
The position in Constantinople is one of very considerable
anxiety. This arises principally from three causes — the dis
content of the Turks with their Government, the feeling of
the Greek population, and the presence of certainly not less
than a hundred thousand refugees. The discontent and
clamour against the Government affects only the Turkish
part of the population, but it is very widespread. The very
women are clamouring against the Government which has
sent their husbands and sons to fight against a Power which
it was impossible single-handed to conquer. The privations
which all classes among the Turks have had to suffer in con
sequence of the war, the non-payment of salaries, and the
enormous drain of men from their population, combined with
the ultimate .failure which the Government has made, makes
them peculiarly bitter in their complaints. It is evident, also,
that some persons are intriguing to bring certain of the
Ministers into discredit. The placards which have been
fixed to the mosque walls make Mahmoud Damat the special i
object of attack. For many months past he has been per
sistently abused by almost everybody, Christian and Moslem
alike, and the abuse has often been so unreasonable, even

SUFFERINGS OF THE GREEKS. 415
while made from several directions, that it is difficult not to
beHeve that there is a party which is bent upon accomplishing
his downfall. But the discontent has become general amongst
the Turks against the Government rather than against any
particular member, and were we living in ordinary times I
should merely anticipate a Softa revolution and a change of
Ministers.
Any political change, however, attempted by force at the pre
sent moment might lead to very dangerous consequences.
The signal once given for violence might both literally and
figuratively- kindle flames which it would be difficult to
extinguish. The ordinary population of Stamboul consists
mainly of Turks and Greeks, among the latter being many
thousand subjects of King George. The race and religious
enmities of the two are never very deeply buried, and at the
present moment the Turks are terribly and fearfully depressed.
The Christian population is exultant. Of course the proposal
to put arms into the hands of the latter, even in the capital,
and for the purposes of forming a civic guard, has not been
carried out. Three ornamental aides-de-camp have been
chosen from among the Christians, but they represent the
progress hitherto made in arming them. The Turks are
unable to hide their depression, and it is difficult for the
Christians not to show their exultation. The enormous
emigration into the city has, moreover, largely added to the
elements of danger.
The Greek refugees who have been brought from Bourgas and
its neighbourhood teU a terrible tale of the outrages com
mitted by the Circassians, and this tale loses nothing when
spread abroad among the imaginative Greeks of the capital.
As I have aHeady telegraphed, this particular set of atrocities
must be put to the credit, as far as I can learn, exclusively
of the Circassians, who, not only in Bourgas but everywhere
, within the semicircle which the Russians are gradually nar
rowing around the capital, have robbed Turks, Greeks, and
Bulgarians indiscriminately, though they are said to have spared
," the lives of the first. During the last three or four days the
I Circassians have been pouring into the capital, and the
Government is either unable or unwilling to disarm them.

416 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
I believe that the respectable portion of the Turkish popula
tion, by which I mean that portion which has anything to
lose in case of riot, is almost as anxious that they should be
disarmed as the Christians ; but, unfortunately, the Govern-
is too weak, or at the present time too distracted, to venture
upon what would be at the present moment a difficult under
taking.
During the last few days I have been over in Stamboul, and
have driven through the crowds of Circassians, Asia Minor
Zeibeks, and provincial Turks, the great majority of whom
carried a small armoury. Yesterday, it is said — and probably
with truth — a number of Circassians arrived from Bourgas
laden with plunder. Horses and other animals have been
driven in by these men in great numbers, and are being sold
at very cheap rates. An acquaintance of mine purchased
two days ago from one of these robbers an exceUent horse,
with saddle and bridle complete, for three liras. The Turkish
refugees that have come in are principaUy from Bulgaria, and
by far the largest number have been brought in by the
Adrianople railway.
An English officer who has just returned from Chorlow, the
midway station between Constantinople and Adrianople, states
that 110,000 refugees have passed from and through that
station within the last ten days. The panic up there seems
to have been fearful. Thirty thousand men, women, and
children were encamped in and around Chorlow, waiting to
be brought on by the trains. That they might not lose their
chance they crowded about the station, and in hundreds of
cases remained exposed to the snow and bitter weather during
two days and nights. When the trains arrived the rush was
frightful. Boards were placed on the couplings of the car
riages, and these were immediately crowded with passengers.
Many of the poor wretches had had little, and in some cases
no food during the long and weary waiting in the cold for the
train, being either unable to obtain it or unwilling, in their
fear to lose the position they had taken up near the place
where the train would arrive. The consequence was that
hardly a train of refugees reached Constantinople without
its tale of distress. Little children perished of hunger and

THE RUSH TO THE CAPITAL. 417
of cold, and instances occurred of persons who were frozen
to death. I have made inquiries which have convinced me
that there have been terrible cases of this kind, but I have
not yet heard it seriously asserted that the numbers of those
who have perished thus on the way are great. Probably
fifty would be an outside number. The number of deaths,
however, represents a very small part of the suffering, and
the specially sad feature of the latter is that it mostly falls
on the women and children. While the one radway of Con
stantinople has thus been pouring in its passengers, every
road leading to the capital has been crowded with the country
waggons or arabas drawn by oxen, and with weary travel
lers on horseback and on foot, who are fleeing in wild confusion
before the foe who are supposed to be in pursuit.
Let me remark here that it is difficult to understand why there
should have been such a rush to the capital. The Turks
themselves have come to understand that the Russians do not
attack innocent villagers. One reason for the general
stampede is to be found in the fact that the Circassians and
Bashi-Bazouks have driven off the Turks in order that they
may have the opportunity of plundering the villages in their
absence. Another is probably to be found in the fact that a
large number of the Moslem refugees come from the neigh
bourhood of the villages and towns which were the scenes of
the Moslem atrocities in Bulgaria.
Great efforts are being made here by all classes of the com
munity, Christians and Turks, natives and foreigners, to
grapple with the distress in which these refugees are found.
The majority of them have nothing to eat and no money to
buy food, and are wholly dependent upon charity. The
Government is making use of the Moslem Civic Guard,
composed mostly of men in the Turkish public offices, to
distribute these refugees into different quarters and to provide
them with food. The wealthy Greeks are behaving admirably.
Not only do they give their assistance to the International
Eefugee Fund, the formation of which I telegraphed to you,
and which is deserving of every confidence, but they have
formed a committee of their own under the Patriarch, which
is giving support to many thousands. The churches and the
VOL. II. E E

418 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
mosques are used for the reception of the refugees, and are
nearly all required. Round about St. Sophia are crowds of
Moslem women and children, who have been provided with
shelter within its ancient walls and in the neighbouring out
buildings. The .Greek Church of the Virgin contains a
number of those who were brought down by the kindness of
Captain Hammond, of the Torch, after the destruction of
their homes by the Circassians near Bourgas. To provide
the daily bread of the hundred thousand fugitives now in the
city is not only an act of humanity but of safety.
As an act of humanity, it has been recognized by the repre
sentative of every foreign Government here.
The International Committee contains the consuls of each
nation, all of whom, with one exception, were present at its
first meeting. I believe that the German authorities here
felt a natural hesitation in joining until they were convinced
that the action proposed could not fairly be construed into
one which would even look like opposition to Russia. As
an act of safety, it is a wise precaution not to drive starving
thousands to plunder for their bread. The Government has
been shipping off many of the refugees to the Asiatic side
of the Bosphorus and ports of the Marmora ; but the work
is slow, and up to the present time the exportations have been
very few in comparison with the importations.
With these crowds of refugees in the city, the male portion.
consisting of some of the most lawless and brutal savages of
the Empire, all of whom have arms in their hands, with the
spoiler and the spoUed face to face, with the Greeks excited
by the risings in Thessaly and Crete, the movement in Greece
and the tale which is being told them of the doings of
Circassians and Bashi-Bazouks about Bourgas and Rodosto,
with the Greeks moreover exultant at the defeat of the Turks,
and with a victorious army closing in upon us, and already
half-way between the capital and Adrianople, it will be seen
we have the elements necessary for a serious and grave dis
turbance. The Ambassadors have had to consider not merely
political questions, but how best they can protect the lives and
properties of their families and the subjects of their respective
Governments.

THE DEFENCES OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 419
Dp to the present time no one is able to say whether the Russians
will come to Constantinople or not. The general impression
is that they wiU. If they come, the Grand Duke, with a
body guard, may pass through the city without opposition
and by arrangement, or the Russians may seriously propose
to capture the city. The accounts are very conflicting as
to the likelihood of a successful resistance being made on
the lines between Lake Dercos and Bujnk Chekmejeh.
With a sufficient number of men, and assuming the earth
works to be in good order, a prolonged, and probably, there
fore, a successful resistance might be made. But the length
of the lines is so great that they could be taken unless the
Turks are able to put into the field a large body of men.
Whether we are about to have a siege will probably be
known to your readers when this letter comes under their
notice.

e e 2

420 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

CHAPTER XVI.
THE WAR IN ARMENIA.
Quiet in Erzeroum. — An Alarm. — Unlucky Mistake. — Funeral of an English
Surgeon. — Prevalence of Typhoid Fever. — Frost and Snow.— The Garrison
of Erzeroum. — Saved by Fate. — Dearness of Provisions. — False News.— A
Caravan from Persia. — The Russian Positions. — Capture of Turkish Cavalry.
—Sufferings of Troops from Cold. — Scarcity of Firewood. — A Russian Pro
clamation. — Surroundings of Erzeroum. — Causes of the Russian Inaction. —
Difficulties of Transport. — Insufficiency of the Russian Force. — Existence
without Fuel. — The British Consul ordered to quit Erzeroum — A Wil
derness of Driving Snow.. — Muhir Ali Wounded. — Departure of Mukhtar
Pacha for Constantinople. — Expected Russian Attack.— Mukhtar's Successor.
— Erzeroum a huge Hospital. — Alleged Cruelty to Turkish Prisoners at KaTs.
— Illidge. — Mehemet Pacha. — Cavalry Demonstrations. — Hopelessness of the
Defence. — A Lapland-like Scene. — Chased out by the Cossacks. — Evacuation
of Illidge — Edhem Pacha. — Ascbkale. — Want of Confidence in Ismail Pacha.
— Armenia Abandoned to the Russians. — Sir Arnold Kemball Reconnoitres. —
Ascent of Mountain Range. — The Turkish Soldier in Sickness. — Evrek.— The
Remnant of a Turkish Army. — The Russians in Possession of the Kop
RaDge. — Suspension of the Postal Service. — The Banner of Omar.— An Ex
planation. — The Executions at Kars. — Gurouschane. — Erzeroum completely
Blocked. — Turkish Policy. — Death of an English Volunteer.
Since the fall of Kars on the 18th of November, or, at least,
from the date of the failure of the Russian attack upon the
defences of Erzeroum, the campaign in Asia had practically ceased
to exercise any influence over the great issues at stake in the war.
The severe weather had, moreover, proved a more serious
obstacle to active military operations in Armenia than it had*
been found to be even in the mountain passes of the Balkans.
Nevertheless, it is of interest to glance at the position of affairs
in Asia, for which purpose the suspension of the war in
European Turkey affords a convenient opportunity.
The two following letters are from a correspondent who
passed some weeks in Erzeroum during the investment : —

AN ALARM. 421
§§ Erzeroum, November 29th. — Since the 9th inst. everything
has been comparatively quiet here. The townspeople have
re-opened their shops, and business goes on as usual. Ex
cepting for the great number of soldiers one meets daily in
the streets, it would be difficult to imagine a foreign army
within three miles of the town. The fall of Kars is now
generally known. The late Turkish commander there,
Hussein Havni Pacha, with some troops, came here vid Olti
on Tuesday last, having escaped during the melee which
foUowed the assault. It is reported that two Russian batta
lions, dressed in Turkish uniform, entered one of the prin
cipal forts at early dawn on the 19th, and when they got in
showed their true colours, and made prisoners of the garri
son. I much doubt the truth of this statement, and think it
is circulated by the Turks to hide the shame of their defeat.
On the 12th, about 8 o'clock at night, we were all surprised to
hear firing. On going to the top of the house we found the
firing extended all round the earthworks. It was pitch dark,
impossible to distinguish anything at ten yards' distance, and
raining in torrents as it can only rain in Eastern countries.
The cannonade was kept up for an hour, when it ceased amid
great cheering from people in the forts and earthworks. We
remained in suspense tUl morning, when we heard the cause
of the alarm. About 150 Russian cavalry with two moun
tain guns were reconnoitring when they were met by the
Turkish outposts, who immediately rushed back and reported
that the whole Russian army was coming to attack. The
enemy did fire a few shots which came close to the town, and
also sent up two or three rockets, and for a minute or so gave
a view of affairs. But the Turks fired in all dHections, some
shells going right across the town.
They also were unfortunate enough to shoot about 100 of their
own men who, alarmed by the firing, came back from their
posts ; those that escaped only managed to do so by getting
off their horses, and crawling up to their comrades on their
hands and knees. The cheering was, I suppose, to show the
Eussians that they were not to be caught napping even on a
wet stormy night. On Tuesday morning last there was a
slight cavalry skirmish, in which three Turks were killed

422 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and one wounded ; the rest rode back as fast as their horses
could carry them to their different khans in the town.
On the 21st, Dr. Ryan, Stafford House Committee, with Dr.
Woods, one of Lord Blantyre's staff of surgeons, accom
panied by Mr. Harvey and Captain Morriseau, volunteers for
ambulance service, arrived here from Constantinople. They
brought a large quantity of medical stores, &c, for the
wounded. They immediately, by the aid of Mr. Zohrab, got
charge of a large khan containing about 300 beds, and are
hard at work among the wounded. The five English sur
geons here have now 450 wounded under their care, and this
number may at any time be doubled, as an attack is expected
before a week. At present there are about 3,000 wounded
and sick in the different hospitals and khans. I am sorry to
have to record the death of one of Lord Blantyre's staff here,
another victim to devotion and hard work.
Dr. W. Guppy died on the morning of the 17th instant from
typhoid fever. He had been working hard at the English
hospital for three months, and after the attack on the 9th
was kept for about a week doing from eight to ten hours'
work a day. His funeral was attended by a good many of
the Turkish doctors and surgeons, among them being Ensuf
Bey, the P.M.O., and a company of soldiers were sent by
Mukhtar Pacha, who marched with reversed arms to the :
Protestant graveyard, where the service was read by Mr.
Cole, American missionary. On his coffin was laid the
British flag and the Red Crescent badge, which he had worn
both on the field at Deve-Boyun and during the attack of the
9th inst.
Mr. Zohrab, her Majesty's able representative here, has
thoroughly identified himself with the English doctors. He
acts as treasurer for both hospitals, has a store from which
he distributes clothes, &c, to the wounded, and notwith
standing his already heavy duties, is always ready to render ,
aid by his presence and advice. Without him, indeed, they '
would have much trouble with the authorities. But as he
is quite up to the manners and customs of the Turk, he
arranges affairs much more satisfactorily than would other
wise be the case. His well-known hospitality also renders

PREVALENCE OF TYPHOID FEVER. 423
the position of the English here much less irksome than one
could imagine, being so far from a civilized place. Not only
do the English appreciate his uprightness, but Austrians,
Armenians, and Turks all come to him with their grievances.
I am sorry to say the health of the town is very bad — typhoid
fever is prevalent ; but this can hardly be wondered at, when
one walks through the streets and sees the dead bodies of
horses and bullocks lying about on all sides, and even in the
watercourses, from which numbers of people are compelled
to take their household supply of water. Were it not for the
dogs, who are the only scavengers, I fear things would be
much worse. There are no such places as slaughter-houses,
and it is no uncommon sight; — a man killing a sheep or heifer
just in front of his house and leaving all the offal in the
street. Happily, the hard frost and snow which we have
lately had, and which is sure to continue for some four or
five months, will for a time lessen the evil ; but it is hard to
predict anything but sickness and fever once it melts. Last
night snow fell to the depth of about a foot, and many of the
narrow streets are quite blocked up, as every one was em
ployed at early morning in throwing it off the roofs. Both
the Turkish and Russian soldiers must suffer terribly from
cold, for in the mountains where the latter are, there must
be at least two feet or more. The days are, as a rule, bright
and warm in the sun, but the nights bitterly cold. The ther
mometer now, 11.30 p.m., being only eight degrees above zero,
and probably it will be much lower in the morning.
The garrison here is now pretty strong, consisting of about
33,000 men, a good many of them being fresh from Con
stantinople, and certainly of very fine physique. Their
endurance and bravery remain to be seen. Two battalions
are at Illidge, about nine miles away, and will probably
arrive to-morrow. Phasir Pacha (General Kholman), of
Zewin fame, started for Constantinople last week ; the poor
old fellow could hardly be expected to remain in this cold
climate during the winter- I may add that he is seventy-
nine years of age, and got hit by a spent bullet on the
shoulder during the fight at Deve-Boyun on the 4th instant.
He had been in command there till the arrival of Mukhtar

424 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Pacha from Kars, and was always busy among the soldiers,
having batteries placed, and encouraging the men in every
way.
Fourteen men were condemned to be shot a short time ago for
cowardice in the field. They were placed in a row, and a
company told off to shoot them, but after the first volley three
were found to be only wounded, so they were brought to the
hospital to be cured, if possible — they had run their chance,
and, according to Turkish religion, Fate saved them, and
most likely when well enough will be drafted back to their
regiment, if it happens to exist at the time.
The prices of everything have risen nearly 100 per cent, during
the past month, and firewood is likely to be still dearer, as a
much smaller quantity than usual was brought in by the
natives in autumn. Barley also is very scarce, and the cavalry
horses already show signs of hard work and little fare if I
except the 300 which came from Kars with Hussein Havni
Pacha. They certainly are very fine horses, and in splendid
condition.
§ § December 1st. — There was a slight skirmish to-day, but without
any importance. A Persian who came through the Russian
camp reports that the troops are all being brought forward
to the Deve-Boyun Camp from the villages, so an attack is
imminent. General Sir A. Kemball is at Pernacaban, about
forty-two miles away, with his aide-de-camp, Lieutenant
Dougal, R.N. Captain M'Calmont is at Trebizond, and
Captain Trotter at Batoum.
I was rather amused to see in an English provincial paper of the
8th of November a telegram taken from the Morning Post
saying that Erzeroum had fallen, and that Ghazi Mukhtar
Pacha had retired on Erzingan and Baiburt, where he ex
pected to receive large reinforcements and supplies.
At the beginning of this week a caravan of camels from Persia
was passed through the Russian lines. When it came to the
camp the head man was asked what his goods consisted of, and
was told carpets, and that they were consigned to an agent
here to be forwarded to England. They (the Russians) took
three or four carpets and gave the man a note to the agent)

CAPTURE OF TURKISH CAVALRY. 425
saying they hoped he would not charge too much, and that
they would pay him in a few days when they came to Erze
roum. The weather is fine, but very cold. This morning the
thermometer was only four deg. above zero.
§§ Erzeroum, December 7th. — I hear on the best authority that
there are now between this and Hassan-Kale, a distance of
about eighteen miles, eighty-six battalions of Russians. How
they manage on the bleak hills it is impossible to say ; but I
have heard from Armenians, whose villages they have visited,
that they take what they requHe and pay well for it. The
Armenians are glad to work for them, seeing the prospect of
a little money, and notwithstanding the intense cold bring
wood, tezek, and other necessaries to the camp. The Russian
tents are either double or covered with thick felt, . and are
supplied with small portable stoves. General Loris Melikoff
came from Hassan-Kale to the camp at the Deve-Boyun a
few days ago, but whether he remained or not I cannot say.
Ghazi Mukhtar Pacha suffered a severe loss on Wednesday,
when, owing to a dense fog, 217 of his best cavalry were
surrounded and taken prisoners. A few, whose horses, over
come with cold and hunger, were unable to keep up with the
main body, perceived the enemy in time, and managed to
escape. Different accounts are given of the strength of the
Russian force, varying from 200 to 800 ; certain it is that the
Turks quietly laid down their arms without firing a shot, and
are now, I suppose, on their way to Tiflis. Yesterday twenty-
three more were taken. This loss leaves the Turkish com
mander only about 2,000 horse, 800 being regulars, the rest
Bashi-Bazouks.
The infantry and artillery suffer very much from exposure and
cold, nearly 200 a day being unfit for duty, while about fifty
a day are sent from the different hospitals to their regiments,
weakened by illness, and quite unable to resist any real attack.
This morning I saw the bodies of three poor fellows who had
been on outpost duty last night, being brought in on an araba,
stiff and cold, frozen to death. Such a strain as this on an
already small garrison must materially affect the chance
Mukhtar has of holding out. He himself takes the greatest

426 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
trouble with his men ; and even now, when the thermometer
is below zero, has no fire in his room, simply, he says, because,
if he had it, all the other officers and men would demand it
also.
Firewood is also very scarce, and the few trees which are
planted in the town are rapidly disappearing ; the roofs of
old uninhabited houses are also torn off by the famishing poor
and burned. The Armenians of the town are many of them
in a starving condition, and Mr. Cole, American missionary,
has been doing his utmost to relieve the distress, but from
want- of funds to buy flour, which is nearly 100 per cent.
dearer than in former years, begs for help. He says the
amount of misery he has seen within the last fortnight among
the poor is frightful, and this is only at the beginning of winter.
What the state of things will be in two or three months I
fear to predict. Numbers are now wandering about begging,
famished with cold and hunger.
A few days ago I saw a paper which had been picked up in the
street by a friend's servant. Upon examination it turned ont
to be a proclamation from General Heimann, the Commander
of the Russian advanced guard, addressed to the inhabitants
of Erzeroum, saying that, as Kars had now fallen, he warned
the people not to oppose the Russian advance; and that if
they quietly submitted and allowed the Russians to occupy
the town, they would receive the same kind treatment from
their hands as did the inhabitants of Ardahan and Kars ; if
not, that anything that happened after an assault they should
blame themselves for. This document was on Russian
stamped paper, and was written in the Turkish and Armenian
languages.
Yesterday a Persian Court of Inquiry, composed of two mer
chants and the dragoman attached to the Persian Consulate,
left here for Hassan-Kale, at the request of the Russian
general, to inquire into the loss of seventy camel loads of
goods alleged to have been stolen by Cossacks when on their
way to Persia through the Russian lines.
The weather having been dark and foggy for a few days, has
again brightened up, and the hard frost continues. The
streets are one mass of solid ice, as the snow, which melts for

ENVIRONS OF ERZEROUM. 427
an hour or so during the day, freezes as soon as the sun goes
down, and makes it dangerous even to walk. Out on the
plain it is not so bad, as the ground is quite smooth and
hard.
The report which I mentioned in my last letter of the Russians
having worn Turkish uniforms at Kars has turned out, as I
suspected it would, a mere invention of the Turks. Ghazi
Mukhtar Pacha says no such thing occurred, and he wrould
probably know had it been so. The late commander of Kars
is at Baiburt, and puts off coming here, pleading illness.
Hussein Bey, a man who spent many years in England at one
of our large military schools, is reported to be now in the
Russian camp.
The following letters are from the correspondent whose pen
has aHeady described the incidents of the attack on Erzeroum
after the fall of Kars and the retreat of Mukhtar Pacha.
D Erzeroum, December 20th. — An apparently inexplicable
calm pervades the Erzeroum situation for the moment. As
far as the city itseH is concerned, there has not been during
the past month the slightest sign of combat ; the shops have
been reopened, traffic partially resumed, and people seem to
' forget that the enemy is less than an hour's march from the
gates — on one side at least, that of the Deve-Boyun Pass,
south-east of the town.
The physical surroundings of Erzeroum have a good deal to do
with this state of affairs. It is situated something like Kars,
in the northern curve of a semicircle of hills, and close to
the base of the latter. These hills, or rather mountains,
completely shut out from the low-lying city the view of the
ground occupied by the enemy, and are crowned by for
midable forts, which prevent the Russians from showing over
the concentric hills beyond, unless bent on an assault. The
winding Deve-Boyun valley or pass opens into the southern
portion of the girding semicircle, but from within the ram
parts one can only see the point where it debouches into the
plain. The Russian flank columns are shut out from view

428 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in the same manner, so that , ocularly they have no existence
for us. Then the authorities propagate all kinds of rumours
about the retreat of the enemy, and keep the population in a
tolerable state of confidence.
Still the storm may burst on us at any moment. I, who for so
long have looked at the Russians from Achmet Mukhtar's
camp on the Aladja Dagh, and seen them, week after week,
so inactive, and apparently so impotent to effect aught against
us, and who so shortly after witnessed the utter rout of the
Turkish army on the same ground, do not share the confidence
which a month's Russian inaction at Deve-Boyun seems to
have created here, even among officers of considerable
experience. They have not been inactive along the rest of
their line, and,, from a distance of two days' journey, have
gradually crept up to within six hours of the forts along the
Olti valley. Behind the southern hills of our semicircle
they are equally close ; and one night's march may see
them joined at Illidge or Pernacaban, between us and Trebi
zond.
Some explain the present Russian inaction by stating that
transport of war material being impossible in this truly
Siberian weather, they are preparing to winter in the vaUeys,
and in the plain of Hassan-Kale. Under this belief the
Turkish soldiers have commenced burning the villages in
the direction of Tortum, hoping thereby, on one flank at
least, to deprive the enemy of ready -prepared lodgings, and
compel them to retire to Olti. Moussa Pacha and his men
are engaged in destroying all the forage in that direction
they cannot carry off. The inhabitants of the destroyed
villages have been forced to retire to others nearer Erze
roum, or to emigrate towards Trebizond.
This theory of the impassability of the roads in rear of the
Russian position is untenable. The road is by no means as
difficult as the road over the Kop Dagh and Zigana Dagh, on
the way to Trebizond, and yet Turkish supplies arrive every
day from the latter town. In all likelihood the increased
difficulty of transport has a good deal to do with the tardi
ness of the Russian operations against Erzeroum ; but it
certainly is not its primary or most important cause. I be-

INSUFFICIENCY OF RUSSIAN FORCES. 429
lieve that in view of the difficulties a strongly fortified point
like Erzeroum presents, the magnitude of the turning move
ments, and the necessity of following up a first success with
promptitude, large reinforcements are required ; and though
the extra forces from Kars have arrived, a still further
addition of strength will be necessary before the Russian
army can commence its final operations for the total conquest
of Armenia. Even after the fighting on the 18th and 25th
of August the Russians were forced to allow more than a
month to elapse before they could recommence their attacks
on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th October, and subsequently ten days
more had to pass by before the arrival of still further rein
forcements enabled them to strike the final blow at Aladja.
Then came a rapid advance, the siege of Kars, and the battle
of Deve-Boyun, which must have cost the victors dear.
Finally, there were the attacks of the 9th and 12th of
November on Erzeroum itself. All this must have drawn
seriously on the strength of the Russian army, so much so,
that in all likelihood it is unable for the moment to recom
mence operations on a scale of the necessary magnitude.
From tbe date of the last fighting till to-day is little over a
month, and in view of the increased distance to be marched
over, and the increased difficulty of transport, I do not think
it likely anything like a serious attempt will be made before
the end of December or perhaps middle of January. Mean
while anything Hke an offensive movement on the part of
the Turks is out of the question. The regular troops are few
in number, between twelve and fifteen thousand, and the local
volunteers are of but little use, even for defensive purposes.
A very considerable number of these latter are Armenian
Christians, almost to a man anxious to see the Russians in
. Erzeroum, and at present going through their couple of
hours' daily driU merely as a matter of policy, in order to
stand well with the authorities.
As regards the power of Erzeroum to, hold out against a mere
passive blockade, I think it quite possible that the popula
tion and troops have ample provision of breadstuffs to last
well into the spring. At present meat is plentiful and cheap ;
but the moment the Trebizond road is held by the Russians,

430 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
animal food will be impossible to get at. Owing to the occu
pation of the Deve-Boyun Pass and Olti Valley, and conse-
quent cutting off of the usual wood supply from the forests
of the Soghanli Dagh, fuel is scarce and dear. Some does
reach us from the direction of Ersingan, but it is very
little ; and the distance from which it has to be conveyed
renders its price so high as to put it beyond the reach of
ordinary purses. In its place the peculiar dung fuel, thessele,
as it is called, composed of cattle droppings kneaded with
earth and dried in the sun, and the only fuel of the peasants,
is being largely brought in from the neighbouring villages.
Some old houses, too, are being demolished, and the very
considerable amount of wood used in their construction dis
tributed to the troops.
Without fuel of some kind, existence in Erzeroum at this
season is impossible ; and not a day passes that dozens of
soldiers coming off night guards are not carried to the hos
pitals with frost-bitten extremities. Apropos of hospitals,
notwithstanding that 4,000 sick have been despatched to
Ersingan, close on 7,000 now crowd the wards of the ex
temporised infirmaries, and the number is hourly increasing.
There is no means of transport to convey them to milder and
less crowded quarters elsewhere. Even if such means existed,
it would be fatal to send sick or even convalescent men on a
six or seven days' journey at such an inclement season.
The Russians have not sent in the sick and wounded Turks
from Kars, as it was currently reported here they would do.
In my last I ventured to doubt the authenticity of the
rumour.
An event occurred six days ago which to no small extent puzzled
and alarmed the population. The British Consul was sud
denly and peremptorily ordered to leave Erzeroum, taking
with him all the archives of the Consulate, and that without
loss of an hour. In fact, so suddenly did he take his
departure, that he was obliged to leave a large portion of his
furniture behind. The Konak, or Consulate, is now occupied
by the doctors sent by Lord Blantyre and the Stafford-House,
Committee. What the meaning of this sudden recall is, no
one here has the slightest idea, and the Consul, even if he

A WILDERNESS OF SNOW. 431
himself knew the reason, took care not to impart his know
ledge to any one else. Looking at the event from every
possible point of view, it is to us here inexplicable, and up to
the moment of writing no information whatever on the sub
ject has reached Erzeroum. The French and Persian Consuls
are now the only foreign representatives remaining.
Should this somewhat curious event indicate a knowledge of the
imminence of the capture or bombardment of the town, or of its
blockade, I am more and more astonished at Mukhtar Pacha
remaining here with his army. Once the town completely
surrounded, the Turkish forces here degenerate into the
position of a mere garrison. As there is no other Turkish
army in Armenia, the whole province would lie at the mercy
of the enemy, and Mukhtar and his men be ultimately forced
to surrender. In fact, our situation here is extremely
interesting ; and I am very curious to see how it will end.
Nearly every European here believes in tbe ultimate
capture of the town, and that, too, within a short space of
time.
The whole surrounding country is one howling wilderness of
driving snow, into which it is even dangerous to venture, and
the cold passes all belief. Real Christmas weather — too much
so !
D Erzeroum, December 25th. — We are blockaded. For the
last two days the Russians have been showing unusual
activity in the Olti Valley. The Turks tried to destroy the
villages at the mouth of the valley, but were beaten back by
a superior cavalry force. MuhH Ali, a celebrated guerilla
chief on the Turkish side, was shot through the thigh in a
cavalry 'fight near the village of Kirsk the day before
yesterday. The Russians are now in the immediate vicinity
of Erzeroum, about two hours' distant in the plain between
this and the Trebizond road. Probably the telegraph wdl be
cut to-day.
D December 27th. — Mukhtar Pacha left Erzeroum on Christmas
night with an escort of 4,000 men, leaving Ismail Pacha to
1 command the town. Communications, telegraphic and

432 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
postal, are still open, but I expect that this letter will be the
last from Erzeroum.
The Russian column which threatens to cut our communications
consists mainly of cavalry. Fourteen field guns also support
it, and four battalions of infantry, in all 7,000 or 8,000
men.
? December 28th — The situation is unchanged. Mukhtar Pacha
is recalled to Constantinople. The general belief here is that
he went away from Erzeroum to organize a new army to raise
the siege in the spring. Some 8,000 men are at Baiburt, to
intercept the Russian turning movement by the Ispir Dagh,
to the right of the road to Trebizond. Most serious dis
positions are being made for the defence of the place. It is
believed that Erzeroum will hold out till the relieving army
comes to help it. I do not believe this. The Armenians are
already speculating on the favourable change the Russian
occupation will bring about. I have been often invited to
visit the town, only one year after the Russians may be in
possession, in order to witness the wonderful change for the
better which will take place. The Russians occupy the
village of Henzig. General Heimann is in the vUlage of
Shafta. Several battalions are in the Olti Valley. Ter-
gnkasoff is in the village of Henzig with a large force of
cavalry. We can see the enemy's troops manoeuvring from
the ramparts. Yesterday the entire telegraph wires and
apparatus were despatched from Erzeroum to Baiburt, with
the view of repairing tbe breaks.
The chief danger seems to be the closing movement of the
Russians in the immediate vicinity of Erzeroum, a movement
en masse. I believe that Erzeroum practically is lost; but
think probably it will make a better defence than Kars.
Captain Mehemed Pacha, virtually in command, is the bravest
soldier in the army of Anatolia.
A few additional particulars of affairs in Erzeroum at the
latter end of December are furnished in the communication
below : —

RECALL OF MUKHTAR PACHA. 433
§§ Syra, January 15th. — I am on my way home from Erzeroum
to England.
Since my last letter, dated from Erzeroum, I have been un
fortunate enough to fall a victim to a fever peculiar, I believe,
to that town, which rendered me in a few days unfit for work
of any kind, and but for the kind nursing of the English
doctors there, Messrs. Ryan, Denniston, and Patterson, I
should have fared much worse. As soon as I was strong
enough to undertake the journey they advised me to set out
for England. So I left on December 28th.
The day previous to my departure Mukhtar Pacha, who had
commanded the Turks with energy and skill during the
summer and autumn months, left for Constantinople, and
with him the last hope of anything like a spirited or suc
cessful defence of Erzeroum. His place is now occupied by
the Kurd Ismail Pacha, who has no pretensions to be a
soldier, and who spends most of his time praying and reading
the Koran. Under his command the town, I expect, will not
hold out long, and indeed if it were only attacked with any
considerable force, I have no doubt the Russians would be
masters of the capital1 of Armenia in a very few hours. I do
not envy them the prize they are sure, sooner or later, to gain.
It is now little better than a huge hospital, with more than
a hundred soldiers a day going to their last home. Their
bodies are placed just under the ground, first having been
exposed to the frost for a night. When a thaw comes in
April next the consequences must be terrible. At present
typhus fever rages, and the intense cold tells very much
against the poor fellows, badly clothed and fed. Numbers
are brought in daily suffering from frost-bite, and scarcely a
night passes without some two or three being frozen to death.
Just before I left I heard on very good authority that there
was flour sufficient only for eleven days, but unground grain
enough to last three or four months. The mills in the villages
around have nearly all been taken by the enemy, and in them
was a supply of food which the Turks had stored up but left
i without guards. The Turkish soldiers have before now held
;' places when living only on grain bruised up and then boiled.
I am very glad to be able to give you a few details about the
VOL. II. F F

434 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
alleged Russian atrocity of sending wounded men away from
Kars during the severe weather. I heard these facts from
some of the wounded soldiers themselves. It was impossible
they said, to give anything like an accurate account of the
number which were sent (the Turkish authorities say 2,000),
as they started in parties of from thirty to seventy, and on
different days. They were first brought to the stores where
the clothing was kept, and given something extra to wear on
the journey. They were also supplied with several rations of
bread, and besides were each given thirty piastres to buy
tobacco or whatever they wished on the way. I may add
that for the most part the wounds were slight. There is no
doubt they suffered much from the cold, but I don't believe
the Turkish account that all except 317 who arrived at
Erzeroum perished.
Many of those who left Kars without doubt went to their
homes, which were in the villages round about. Those who
came to Erzeroum spoke in the highest terms of the kindness
they received from the Russian soldiers who were stationed
in the different villages through which they passed. They
always got them houses to sleep in, and, where wood could
be procured, fire also. One man told me his comrade grew
tired before the halting-place for the night was reached, and
lay down on the roadside, where he was found by some
Russian soldiers, who carried him to the nearest village,
which was nearly two hours' distance. There they took as
much care of him as if he had been one of themselves. He
also added that the Russians were brothers, not enemies.
Many said they would never again carry arms against the
Russians, they had been treated with so much kindness.
On the other hand, in the villages where there were only
Circassians and where the Russians had no troops, their
head man was taken, their money stolen, and they them
selves treated as if they had never suffered, fought, and
bled for their country. It would be well for those people
who write about Russian atrocities if they looked nearer
home, and marked how the Turkish authorities treat their
own wounded.
All communication between Trebizond and Erzeroum is now

ILLIDGE. 435
(Stopped, and if Erzeroum is captured and the garrison there
falls into the hands of the Russians, there will scarcely be
a Turkish soldier left in Asia Minor. There are a couple of
battalions at Baiburt and seven or eight hundred men at
Trebizond. Those, with the troops at Batoum, will be the
sole representatives of Mukhtar Pacha's once fine army.
Sir Arnold Kemball has returned from Pemacaban to Baiburt,
where he remains for the present.

The following letters continue the story of the investment of
Erzeroum : —
a Illidge (near Erzeroum), January 2nd. — The speculations I
ventured on in one of my last letters have been verified.
Though within cannon shot of the town since the battle of
Deve-Boyun, the Russians, with the exception of the two
attempts to storm Erzeroum, have remained almost entirely
inactive, at least as far as hostilities are concerned. Still
they have been steadily pushing their way down the Olti
Valley and behind the Palantoken mountain south-east of
the town, both columns gradually converging to a point of
union in the neighbourhood of the village from which I
write. Both forces are now in alarming proximity to the
Trebizond road, and it is a matter of a few days at the
furthest, it may be a few hours, that the town of Erzeroum
be completely blockaded. For some days past we have been
accustomed to see from the ramparts of the town the Cossacks
leisurely marching from one village to another requisitioning
corn and forage. Two days ago, as I telegraphed, they entered
the Mohammedan village of Souyouk Chernik, only three
quarters of an hour's march from the Olti gate of Erzeroum.
The guns on the Kop Dagh opened fire, and succeeded in
forcing the Cossacks to retire. I went out with a troop of
Turkish cavalry, and entered the village twenty minutes after
the departure of the Russians. The head man of the place
told me the latter simply asked about forage, and whether
any Turkish troops were concealed in the village. He
further asked me to request the artillery commander not to
F f 2

436 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
fire any more, as the shells had done considerable damage in
the place.
Yesterday, learning that an unusual movement was noticeable
among the Russians, and not wishing to be shut up in
Erzeroum, I started for this place, where I shall remain till
the last moment. Yesterday, shortly after my arrival, I
thought that moment had already come. A force of some
700 Turkish horse, under the command of Edhem Pacha,
usually occupies Illidge, to watch the fords and bridges of
the Kara Su, the western branch of the Euphrates, and
which has hitherto constituted the main barrier between the
enemy and the Trebizond road, which passes through the
village.
The Pacha and his men started on a patrolling expedition
towards Pemacaban early in the afternoon, and the Cossacks
who occupy the village of Usni, an hour and a half's march
distant, took advantage of the circumstance to try and sur
prise the village. At half -past four o'clock they were already,
to the number of some eight or nine hundred, so close to ns
that we could count the advanced guard without the aid of a
glass. At this juncture the Turkish cavalry, warned of the
danger, were seen hurriedly returning to Illidge, and only
just in time to prevent its capture. The Russians advanced
up to the banks of the river, but, finding they could not
arrive at the village before the Turks, after reconnoitring
ns for half an hour they drew off to their camp at Usni.
The situation has become critical in the extreme, and should
the Turks desire to maintain their communications with
Trebizond open, a much larger force than that at present
here, must be drawn from the garrison at Erzeroum. The
Kara Su at this point runs nearly east and west, and half
way between Illidge and Erzeroum expands into an elongated,
sheet of water, known as the Illidje Su. It is here crossed
by two bridges, its depth rendering it unfordable. While
these bridges were held, a formidable obstacle intervened
between the Russians and the Trebizond road, which runs
more or less parallel to the stream ; and some flying columns
of cavalry amply sufficed to prevent parties of the enemy,
from molesting the traffic. At the present season, however,

MEHEMET PACHA. 437
matters are greatly changed. The intense cold has frozen
the river to a depth of 18 inches ; and not only cavalry but
ox- waggons pass across it. It has practically ceased to be an
obstacle ; and it is pretty certain we shall shortly see the
Russians take advantage of the circumstance to possess
themselves of the road on its southern bank.
I understand that Mehemet Pacha, the fighting man par excel
lence of the army here, is charged with resisting such an
attempt. To do so successfully, however, he should draw
off from the Erzeroum garrison more men than it would be
safe to bring outside the ramparts at this juncture. Besides,
he will have to make head, not only against the assailants
crossing the river in front, but also against those arriving on
his rear from behind the Palantoken mountains,, whence the
second Russian turning column is about to debouch into the
plain. A sortie of the kind may possibly do much to impede
the establishment of a strict blockade as promptly as might
otherwise be effected ; prevent it ultimately it cannot: There
are some who consider the Russian demonstrations of cavalry
in the plain as a mere blind to cover a serious one by the Ispir
mountains, turning the tremendous passes of the Kop Dagh
and menacing Baiburt.
Some colour is given to this theory by the fact that the Turks
have posted ten battalions and some guns at this last-named
f point, which, after Erzeroum and the Deve-Boyun pass, is
the only position where a stand can be made to cover
Trebizond. Should the Russians succeed in occupying
Baiburt, the campaign may be considered at an end, until
spring allows the recommencement of operations, as during
- this winter the enemy would scarcely think of moving against
Trebizond. The great distance from their base of operations,
and the exceedingly difficult nature of the road, would render
such an undertaking inexpedient. Meantime, the Turks will
probably organize a new army for the defence of Trebizond,
and this, aided by the co-operation of the fleet, may prove the
1 most obstinate which has yet been made in Armenia.
I do not know whether the Sublime Porte is really aware of
- the true state of affairs here ; or whether the Government
;: entertains any hope of being able to sa^ve Erzeroum. The

438 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
only chance is in the place being able to hold out till late in
the spring, when a victorious Ottoman army, having defeated
the Russian troops, might march to its relief. Both contin
gencies are, however, sadly improbable. That reinforcements
will be thrown into Trebizond to dispute the road thither is
possible, and likely enough. That the same should be able
to cut their way to Erzeroum is a contingency by no means
probable. Again, within the walls of Erzeroum disease and
the severity of the climate are working sad havoc. A typhus
epidemic is decimating the garrison. Notwithstanding the
despatch of nearly 1,000 invalids to Ersingan, over 8,000
now crowd the hospitals. Even the doctors are not exempt
from the general fate. Many have died ; still more are ill
with typhus, and several have resigned and fled. Of the ten
English doctors sent out by the Sutherland House Committee
and Lord Blantyre, two, Drs. Casson and Bnckby, the latter
ill with typhoid, were taken prisoners at Kars; one, Dr.
Guppy is dead ; two more, Drs. Morrisot and Pinkerton, are
attacked by typhus ; and three, Drs. Featherstonehaugh,
Woods, and Hughes, have left for Trebizond invalided.
Only two, Drs. Denniston and Ryan, are capable of doing
duty ; these may at any moment be struck down. Among
the German and Hungarian doctors sickness and mortality
have been at work too, and the director of the medical service
is daily worried with applications for leaves of absence and
proffers of resignation. A strict blockade once established,
and the meat supply cut off, there is no saying to what degree
mortality and demoralization may arrive. The Armenian
population all ardently desire the advent of the Eussians,
and even now speculate freely on the changed state of affairs
which will supervene when a Russian governor replaces Ismail
Pacha. Even the Turks themselves are unwilling to undergo
the privations and losses of a prolonged siege. Looking at
the situation from any point of view, I think it probable
Erzeroum will not hold out till the ensuing spring.
The weather is bitterly cold ; mountain and plain alike deeply
covered with snow. It would be hard to find a more Lapland-
like scene than that which spreads around me — the vast plain
of Erzeroum blinding white with the dazzle of snow ; the

CHASED OUT OF ILLIDGE. 439
ghostly white hUls scarcely distinguishable from the snow-
fraught clouds around and above them, and far off the domes
and minarets of Erzeroum, looking as if chiselled from Parian
marble. Men and women, looking like animated bundles of
dirty sheepskins, plod about ankle-deep in snow, dragging
after them the Httle wooden sledges which at this season
replace the block wheeled ox-carts of summer. Before one
has been five minutes in the open air, his beard and hair are
frozen stiff, and in point of colour assume a most reverend
appearance. Stand still for two minutes, and you are literally
frozen to the ground. Notwithstanding the voluminous
sheepskin coats served out to the soldiers, especially the
cavalry, cases of frost-bite needing amputation are exceed
ingly frequent.
It is not easy to write under such circumstances as those in
which I find myself at this moment. For want of anything
even bordering on a table or chair, I am compelled to He flat
on the bass matting which covers the damp earth floor of the
wretched Armenian oda I inhabit. I write by the light of
an iron lamp of antique and primitive form. Melted butter
takes the place of oil, and the rude cotton wick leans slant
ingly in the spout of the sauce-jug-shaped utensil. Cattle
groan and mutter at my elbow, and some industrious rats,
burrowing in the thick flat earthern roof above, are kicking
down whole handfuls of sand and dirt into my ink-bottle
and over my paper. A block of dung-fuel smoulders in a
hole in the wall beside me, and from time to time a storm
gust whHling down the low chimney sends the grey impal-
pably-powdered ash into my eyes.
D Aschkale (nine hours from Erzeroum), January 4th. — I
was chased out of .Illidge last night by the Cossacks, and had
to make my way here in the dark, my horse sinking mid-leg
deep in the snow at every step.- The entire Turkish cavalry
force retired at the same time, and are now watching the
passes of the Iskr mountains which open towards this
village. The post, which was unable to leave Erzeroum
yesterday, has managed to come through this opening. It
will in all likelihood be the last, unless the sortie about to be

440 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
made from Erzeroum succeeds in forcing the Russians out of
range of the Trebizond road. This, however, appears to be
very unlikely, as the Russian converging movement would
take their assailants in front and rear. To-morrow the
action is expected to take place, and I will telegraph the
result, unless the Russians push on and destroy the wires.
The cold passes all belief. In the oda where I passed the night,
a cavalry soldier was frozen to death ; and horses and
baggage mules strew the way. The number of carcases of
these animals are so great, as to have attracted an immense
number of wolves and foxes to the plain, and theH foot
prints mark the snow in every direction. My servant, whom
I despatched with letters to a neighbouring village, was
attacked by two wolves, and had to gallop for his life.
The critical moment for Erzeroum seems to have arrived, its
fate, in fact, depending on the issue of the coming combat.
In case the Russians succeed, we shall all have to decamp to
Baiburt, which wdl then become the great centre of inte
rest ; as Erzeroum will, I believe, undergo a simple blockade.
In any case, I believe the town to be practically lost.
a. Pernacaban Village, January 5th. — As I finished the
preceding paragraph, and was about to despatch my letter.
the sudden arrival, pell-mell, of Edhem Pacha and his 1,600
horse from the vicinity of Illidge, announced the occupation
of that village by a strong Russian force, and I retained my
letter to add further particulars. Yesterday, about ten o'clock
in the forenoon, six battalions of Russian infantry, preceded
by two regiments of cavalry, boldly crossed the Kara Su,
and took possession of Dlidge. Their first act was to cut the
telegraph wires, and to throw out vedettes in this direction.
Edhem Pacha, supposing that he sawr only the advanced
guard of a whole army corps, immediately fell back rather
hurriedly in this direction.
I was quietly reclining on the floor of my oda at Aschkale, the
best in the miserable village, that of the local magnate or
Bey, as they style him. Edhem Pacha, looking like King
Christmas, white from head to foot with hoar frost, rushed
hurriedly in, and divesting himself of his numerous fur coats

INTER.VIEW WITH EDHEM PACHA. 441
and head and face wrappers, threw himself on a mattress at
the fire opposite that which I occupied. He seemed greatly
perturbed in spirit. He gave several orders in rapid succes
sion about outposts and vedettes, and then his servant pro
duced a large wicker-covered gallon bottle of rhaki.
He turned abruptly to me and asked what my countrymen
were about. England seemed going to sleep, he said.
" There is Erzeroum completely blocked ; its last avenue
of communication with the outer world cut off ; all the
same as lost." And he continued pouring out his dissatisfac
tion in the same strain for about an hour.
I felt glad that I had taken the rather emphatic hint of the Cos
sacks on the previous evening, and left Illidge there and then.
Edhem Pacha seemed divided in opinion as to whether he
should retreat on Ersingan, or merely push on to Pemacaban.
" You'll have the Russian cavalry here to-morrow," he said,
" and there is no knowing how we may be cut off."
He asked me if I believed that General Kemball was still at
Pemacaban.
I said that I believed so.
" Then," he said, " we will go up there together to-morrow, if
you like."
The evening wore on ; orderlies and officers coming and going
continually on one business or another.
It was about haH-past nine in the evening when an orderly
rushed in with a despatch, to the effect that the same after
noon Mehemet Pacha had made a sortie from Erzeroum in
connection with a flank movement led by Ismail Pacha, and
that the Russians, after a brief cannonade, had evacuated the
village, and retired across the river again. The Pacha imme
diately issued orders for the entire force to be ready to march
on Illidge within an hour.
Then followed a scene of confusion such as I have rarely wit
nessed. Bugles sounded and re-sounded in vain. There was
no response save on the part of the local guard, and a couple
of dozen Karapabaks or irregular horsemen. The Pacha
stormed and raved, despatched his second in command and his
aides-de-camp hither and thither, but all in vain.
" Where are the officers ; where are the men ? "

442 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
" In the different villages," was the reply.
In fact the thing was only reasonable, inasmuch as no orders
had been given on the subject. Aschkale is a miserable
tumble-down hamlet of a few dozen cabins crowded by an ex
cessive population. It was impossible to find quarters for
sixteen hundred men and horses there ; and the subordinate
officers had given carte blanche to their men to find lodgings
where and when they could.
The night was bitterly cold, and a kind of smothering smoke
like frozen mist filled the air, rendering a man invisible at
fifty yards. Just the sort of weather for a surprise, had the
Russians been in a position to effect one. The soldiers accord
ingly went off in scattered parties to different vUlages, some
two, three, and four, and even ten miles distant. This may
seem incredible ; but it is positively true. Some came as far
as Pemacaban, three hours' ride from Aschkale. Orderlies
were at once sent off to the surrounding villages to order the
men in ; but notwithstanding every effort not more than five
or six hundred could be got together by midnight. There
were fragmentary squadrons without officers ; and officers with
out men. I dare say this scattering of the troops was the only
available means of finding the cover so imperatively necessary,
for it was almost certain death to attempt bivouacking on
such a night, but with the enemy in such supposed dangerous
proximity, it was courting certain destruction. I don't be
lieve the entire force has been yet got together. Some of them
are here even as I write, late in the evening.
The Pacha having seen this fraction of his command on their
way back to Illidge went to bed ; but started himseH long be
fore daylight in the same direction. Knowing, as I did, that
the telegraph wires had been cut, it was useless to undertake
a seven hours' ride to Erzeroum for the purpose of sending a
despatch. They had told me at the central office in that town
that there was a telegraph station at Pemacaban, whence I
could send French or English messages. Accordingly, early
this morning, I rode over here, climbing the first slopes of the
Kop Dagh. The journey, which is ordinarily one of three
hours, owing to the deep snow is now one of at least four
hours. On reaching this village, hid away up in a snowed up

MUKHTAR PACHA'S SUCCESSOR. 443
mountain gorge, I discovered to my disgust that the operator
was a Turk, and could forward only Turkish messages.
It was too late to return to Aschkale, so I made up my
mind to camp here for the night. I got lodgings in a
wretched hovel, where I write these lines. To-morrow I des
patch my letters by special foot courier to Trebizond : for
across these tremendous mountains from seven to eight
thousand feet high, and of rude ascent, a man on foot moves
quicker than a horseman.
Among the officers and men I spoke to at Erzeroum and along
the way here a profound want of confidence exists in their
new commander, Ismail Pacha, now raised to the grade of
Mushir. Indeed, his conduct of affairs at Bayazid wras not
that to inspire confidence. All, too, seem to despair of being
able to hold Erzeroum, and seem to consider it as already lost.
Baiburt is the next point at which to make a stand, and, if
that be taken or turned the Russians are masters of Armenia.
The fact that the deep snow and bitter weather have not pre
vented the enemy's operations, at best only slightly retarding
them, seems to have completely upset Turkish defence plans.
It now appears evident that the Russians will have worked
their will in Armenia before either the weather or their re
sources permit the Turks to resume the offensive. And yet,
as far as I have seen, the latter stand the cold remarkably well.
On my way from Aschkale to-day I passed numerous groups of
invalids, mostly soldiers convalescent after typhus and typhoid.
They were being sent on from Erzeroum to Baiburt, a distance
of about one hundred miles, for more than half the way
over snow-clad mountains. They were on foot and each man
carried his own pack. When sick men are capable of such a
journey on foot over the snowy wolf-haunted wastes and tre
mendous precipices of a mountain range twice as high as
Snowden or Ben Nevis, and in such weather, surely their com
panions who are well in health should be able to march and
counter-march through the snow quite as well as the Russians.
? Baiburt, January 11th. — When I reached Pemacaban, on
the slopes of the Kop Dagh, in my somewhat precipitate
retreat from the neighbourhood of Illidge, I thought that

L44 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
k few days at least of repose would be permitted me. I
could not imagine that the situation was so hopeless, and
that Armenia was so completely abandoned to the Russians
as to all appearances it is at this moment. I had supposed
that, though Erzeroum was besieged, and a colossal invading
army menacing the roads leading to the coast, a stout stand
would be made in the passes of the Kop Dagh. This has not
been done, and for a very good reason. Save a few scattered
battalions there are now no Turkish soldiers in Armenia who
are not hopelessly blocked at Erzeroum and Batoum.
Dn the 8th I noticed a suspicious movement in the village of
Pemacaban. Sick soldiers were being sent off across the
mountains in the direction of Baiburt, and mules laden with
ammunition and flour followed them at intervals. Still I
held on in the hope of seeing a force of some kind appear,
to make at least a show of resistance, if nothing more, but
all the men, principally cavalry, who appeared were march
ing in the wrong direction, away from the enemy and towards
the sea coast. Still, I remained at my post ; and it was only
about eleven o'clock on the 9th that, for my personal safety,
I found it necessary to move off. Edhem Pacha and his
cavalry came hurriedly in, announcing that the Russians
had occupied Aschkale with a considerable force, he himself
narrowly escaping being made prisoner.
Se owed his escape to the timely warning of his host, who
informed him that the Russian cavalry was advancing its
flanks to surround the village. The bulk of his Zaptieh
cavalry and Karapabaks were stationed at Karabuyouk Khan,
two hours and a-half distant along the Erzeroum road.
The Cossacks, moving stealthily along the opposite bank of
the frozen Kara Su, under cover of the dense snow fog, and
crossing on the ice succeeded in surprising the Turks,
some 600 strong. There was no fighting. The Ottomans
fled in disorder. Those who were well mounted fled across,
the plain, scattering in every direction ; and those whose
horses failed them were either cut down, or made prisoners.
The Russians then immediately advanced, occupying Asch
kale, and pushing a force towards Pemacaban, three hours'
march further on. It was at this juncture I started.

A GENERAL STAMPEDE. 445
General Kemball, who for some time past had vegetated in
an oda in the vUlage, deeming Erzeroum too unsafe since the
battle of Deveboinou, rode out along the Aschkale road to
reconnoitre the enemy. He had scarcely turned the angle
of the road a quarter of a mile from the village, when he
was fired on by the leading Cossacks. A general stampede
followed. The General, Edhem Pacha, the remnant of the
cavalry, and all the inhabitants who could afford to leave,
started at once into the entrance of the Kop Pass, fleeing
before the redoubtable Cossacks, who in this campaign have
achieved as great a celebrity for ubiquity and daring as the
Uhlans in the Franco-Prussian war. My last recollection
of Pemacaban was seeing an unfortunate man, near whose
semi-subterranean hovel a telegraph post had been erected,
cutting this latter down hurriedly, lest its proximity to his
dwelling might call down on him the wrath of the Russian
horsemen.
It is not child's play at any season to face a mountain range
12,000 feet high ; still less so in midwinter in a climate like
this. As I left the village on my way to the frozen steeps
beyond, half seen amid the long cloud streaks that marked
the cliffs above, I had serious misgivings whether any of us
would effect the passage with impunity. Up we went along
a zig-zag path where the snow banks rose high on either side
The uninitiated stranger would have said that our path was an
abandoned colliery tramway from which the rails and sleepers
had been torn. The way was marked in the beaten snow by
sharply cut trenches separated by intervals of eighteen inches
I have seen the same peculiarity in Herzegovina and Monte
negro during wet weather. It is due to the mule convoys.
Each animal steps exactly in the place of that which precedes
him and thus this parallel lining is produced.
We passed many and many a group of way-worn invalids,
toiling painfully along, making the best of their way to
Baiburt, the nearest haven of refuge for those hors de combat.
Apropos of these Turkish invalid soldiers, it is really remark
able how the Ottoman warrior changes his skin when passed
by the doctor. Your ordinary Turkish belligerent is a cheerful,
obedient, long-suffering individual. He may be clothed in

446 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
rags, be bootless, and his rations not the most regular. He
, may have some outpost duty to perform in a temperature
where the beard and moustache represent as many icicles as
there are hairs. He doesn't complain. Allah and the
Padischah are for him all-sufficing reasons why he should
set his own personality at naught. But let the doctor once
touch his wrist, let him give but the slightest hint that the
patient is not in a condition to pursue his ordinary avocation
as a soldier, and a fearful and wonderful change comes over
the man. The robust cheerful warrior shrinks to a shadow
of himseH. His shoulders bow down, his eyes become dim,
his legs totter under him, and his voice shrinks to a feeble
treble. I have seen many phases of warlike life, but never
have I seen so sudden and complete a metamorphosis as that
which overtakes the Mussulman soldier when the doctor jus
tifies him in the idea that he is sick.
With a train of such persons I commenced the arduous and
even dangerous ascent of the mountain. Some toiled wearily
on; others sat by the roadside and called on Allah; and I
saw forms stretched on a snowy couch that was to be their
last. On an occasion like this it is " every one for himself."
There is no use halting beside some wretched sufferer. You
can do but little to prolong his agony ; you can't take him
with you. And to remain is to perish. On, on up the steep
slope, where the blinding glare of the snow makes all the
colours of the rainbow dance before your eyes. " Have I a
chance of getting over ? " was more than once asked of me
by less experienced travellers, as our horses sank to the girths
in the snowdrift. When the higher regions of the mountain
are reached, the snow becomes firmer, and a kind of track is
visible in the blinding waste. At an elevation of 10,000
feet, before entering into the dense white cloud that girds
the summit, the view is magnificent. For leagues and
leagues Eastern Armenia stretches at your feet. It is blank
and white as death, with sable dottings here and there — the
villages and rock masses. From unseen openings in distant
clouds — for overhead all is leaden grey — patches of sunlight
fall below, like golden spangles on an ermine mantle. Another
ten minutes and our horses, wading amid snow four feet deep,

CROSSING THE MOUNTAINS. 447
enter the' cloud region. Then all is blank. A circle of fifty
yards limits the visible horizon. Living thing there is not,
save the irrepressible magpie and a kind of stone-chat. Even
the eagles and vultures have departed to lower levels. At
intervals of two hours there are houses of refuge : blank
empty tenements, where the ribs of mules and oxen grin
around in the snow, half protruding like the wreck of some
barque above shifting sands. Gradually the track disappears
in the staring white expanse, and it is only by means of
obelisk-like guide marks, and mile-stones barely protruding
above the snow that we keep in the road. This lasts for
some five hours, when a slight downward sloping of the way
is noticed. Then the mountain side becomes dangerously
precipitous, and horse and man slide ten feet at a time, pur
sued by great masses of detached snow which ultimately
disappear over some tremendous precipice. For an hour we
scramble on, slipping and sliding as we go, and at length
begin to make out the sun struggling palely through the snow
fog.
A little later and we leave the. wall-like mist bank behind us,
and emerge into the full blaze of daylight. The change is
really remarkable. But a couple of minutes previously and
we were moving amid Arctic surroundings ; now, clear blue
sky, golden sunlight, and the vegetation of the lower valleys.
StiU, however, the snow is six feet deep, and we pass a train
of mules conveying the harem and house furniture of a local
magnate, two of the animals lying half buried in the drift
and struggling vainly to regain their feet. As we go on,
wood pigeons and an occasional eagle or hawk appear, and
six hours after leaving Pemacaban we are on level ground,
and at the expiration of the seventh reach the large well-
budt Armenian village of Evrek. An excellent oda is placed
at my disposal by the head man of the viUage, a reverend
Judaic-looking elder, who supplied me with weak tea
sweetened with honey and fried eggs, served with a sauce
compounded of treacle and lemon juice.
At Evrek that night gathered the remnant of what was once a
moralized Turkish army — some sixty horsemen in all, with
their chief, Edhem Pacha. General Sir Arnold Kemball, two

448 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of my brother correspondents, and myself were the only
strangers in the place. Next morning we started for Baiburt,
wishing to put a respectable distance between us and the
lancers behind. Three hours ride from Baiburt we
encountered a major and a Greek military doctor, the
latter speaking French. He informed us that a suspension
of arms had been telegraphed to Baiburt, and that he and
the major were era route for Erzeroum.
In the hurry of the moment I forgot to tell him that the
Russians were at Pemacaban, and would scarce allow even a.
flag of truce to penetrate ten hours' march behind the
advanced posts. Since my arrival here I have tried to dis
cover the origin of this armistice rumour, but in vain.
General Kemball knows nothing whatever on the matter, but
has heard the thing spoken of. Edhem Pacha has also heard
the report, but knows nothing officiaUy. This latter officer
gave me the intelligence, which I at once telegraphed, that
the Russian cavalry and mountain artillery had made their
way at our heels over the Kop Dagh, and were at the moment
menacing Baiburt. Their force, it seems, consists of four
battalions of infantry, three sotnias of Cossacks, and a
battery of mountain guns. They are now in undisputed j
possession of the formidable Kop range of mountains.
Baiburt is at their mercy, and once there they can radiate
freely over defenceless Armenia. This letter is in all likeli
hood the last I shall write from Baiburt. I expect to have
to move on to-morrow morning, for we have no force here
worth speaking of. Two battaHons are pushed three hours'
march from this to watch the road beside the wooden bridge
v over the Churuk Su. This force is merely doing sentinel
duty. Serious resistance to the enemy it cannot offer.
Baiburt may be considered as already in Russian hands,
and with it the entire province up to the walls of
Trebizond.
The military situation may be summarized as follows. The ;
last Turkish army in Armenia is blocked within Erzeroum,
hopelessly so ; not even the chance of a prolonged resistance.
The Russians dominate the plains far and wide. The
resources of the country are in their power. Erzeroum,

DIFFICULTY OF SENDING NEWS. 449
I Trebizond, and Batoum alone represent Ottoman rule. There
is not even the shadow of a relieving force which could co
operate with the beleaguered garrisons ; nor do I think that
anything of the kind is being prepared for the coming spring.
Even if armies were being organized their advent would be
far too late to arrest the tide of conquest. Armenia is
already conquered.
Under existing circumstances it is far from easy to maintain
communications with Europe. The great distance to Trebi
zond, the formidable mountain ranges and Siberian climate
of the higher ground, render anything like carrying one's
own despatches simply out of the question. No one horse can
effect the journey in less than five days. The post, which
travels night and day, takes two days and a half to effect the
journey, and there are horse relays every six hours. The
worst is, one can never count on this postal service. For
instance, to-day the post is six days behindhand, and often
the convenience of some local magnate must be consulted,
and the public service interrupted for hours. I have found
this the case so often that at heavy expense I have been
obliged to send off special couriers over a distance of 200
miles to catch the Trebizond steamers.
Then the telegraph arrangements are, for a European, altogether
impracticable. At Erzeroum and Trebizond only are there
international services where French is understood. At Kars
and all other stations up to Trebizond only a Turkish service
exists. One has a dragoman, it is true, but it is rare to find
among such one who can write the Turkish language. The
little knowledge I have is a reading and writing one ; and
with it I have managed to get off my despatches in a kind
of a way. Unfortunately my Turkish is classical, and even
when written is scarcely intelligible to the people here, who
speak only a hideous Armeho-Turkish patois.
I have just heard rumours about a sortie from Erzeroum, with
a successful issue. I don't believe it. It is simply one of
those rumours spread purposely to keep up the morale of the
remaining troops. As counter weight to this rumour there
is the fact visible to my own eyes, that this evening the
Turkish and Armenian notabilities of Baiburt are in solemn
VOL. II. G G

450 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
conclave to decide on their course of action when the Russians
arrive. My last news from Erzeroum announces the dis
playing of the banner of Omar, brought from Mecca by an
aged Sheik. The enthusiasm was great among the Moham
medans ; but unless the rumour I hear about the sortie be
true, I am afraid the Sandjack might as well have been left
at Mecca.
I cannot close this letter without alluding to a paragraph which
appeared in the Daily News signed " C. W.," and which com
mented on some statements made by me in a letter from
Kars. It was by the merest chance I saw the paragraph re
printed in Galignani's Messenger, a copy of which I stumbled
across at Pemacaban. From internal evidence I judge that
the paragraph was written by an esteemed friend and
colleague with whom I had the great pleasure of spending
some time in the Turkish camp on the Aladja Dagh beyond
Kars. He allows himself, I am afraid, to be influenced by
his personal friendship for Colonel Hussein Bey in his
comments on my statements. He says that the Colonel's
presenting a revolver at my head when I was endeavouring
to save myself amid the wreck of the fugitive army was owing
to my having addressed the colonel in French. I did so be
cause Hussein Bey invariably changed from English to French
when I spoke to him in the vernacular. I said to Hussein
Bey, " Colonel, est-ce que vous ne me connaissez pas ? I am
the correspondent of the Daily News of London." The
colonel replied, still with his revolver in my face, " It's all
the same to me what you are ; turn, or I blow your brains
out," when one of Mukhtar Pacha's aides-de-camp came
dashing by and forced the colonel to let me pass ; the latter
said something which roused my wrath. "Oh, a corre
spondent," he said, " pass on (aside), one of those people
who come to our country to gain money." I might have
replied that if I gained money by honest work in his
country, it was certainly not from his country that the money
came. I thought it rather singular to be treated as a run
away. I had been two days on the field of battle, six hours
distant. I only came in when all was lost, and when Mukhtar
Pacha and General Kemball were spurring hard to Kars.

AN EXPLANATION. 451
Colonel Hussein Bey, who never showed his face on the
plains of Gumri, and whose valorous exploits are all of his
own telling, rode for half an hour from the gates of Kars,
and abused men who came from a field where he never dared
to show his face. As a last comment on his military zeal, I
have only to remark that he entered Kars gate five minutes
after me.
What I have said about the flinging from the ramparts of the
citadel at Kars I maintain. My friend, your correspondent
" C. W.," speaks of Mr. Bell's sketches of courts-martial and
of his own experience of similar scenes. When I wrote
about the abominable conduct of Hussein Bey and his
' colleague Hussein Havni Pacha, I alluded to the period during
which Kars was besieged, and when the well-matched pair
had power of life and death in their hands. The trials which
Mr. Bell has so faithfully reproduced in the Illustrated London
News took place after the raising of the siege, when Mukhtar
Pacha was on the ground ; and Mukhtar Pacha is too much
of a gentleman and a soldier ever to sanction the atrocities
of Kars. I was at Kars when the trials of which your
correspondent " C. W." speaks took place, but the civUized
sentiments of Mukhtar Pacha stayed the Tarpeian atrocities
and relegated the criminals to a simple death by hanging.
I cannot pretend to judge of the niceties which may dis
tinguish execution by the hanging method, whether eastern
or western. " C. W." thinks it preferable to be flung from
a cliff two hundred feet high to broken rocks beneath.
People who were in the town when the atrocious executions
to which I have alluded took place teH me they have seen
the still quivering remains borne away a few yards to be
interred — almost yet living. I can't enter into controversy
with " C. W." as to the expediency of dying by hanging or
precipitation, but I think he will agree with me that it was
hardly through pure humanitarian motives that Hussein Bey
adopted the new system of execution. To conclude, by a
strange dispensation of Providence, a retributive justice,
Colonel Hussein Bey, a prisoner of war among the Russians,
is now accused by the highest Turkish authority, civil and
military, of a heinous and aggravated form of treachery,
G G 2

452 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
compared to which the sin of the poor Armenians of Kars I
sank to insignificance. He is accused of having betrayed
Kars.
Naturally our communications have never been of the best.
Disordered postal arrangements and Turkish improvidence
often left us isolated from Europe. Were it not for the kindly
services of M. Gilbert, the French consul, we should often
have been at a loss to send our news home. It is only a just
tribute to this gentleman to say that every European, regard
less of nationality, looked to him for the furtherance of his
interests, when perhaps he should have looked elsewhere. ,
The Daily News has to thank M. Gilbert for the advent of
many of my letters, which, if entrusted to another repre- ]
sentative would have met with the fate of their predecessors,
and never come to hand.
January 12th. — Since I wrote the preceding paragraphs we have
been put on the alert. The Russian cavalry have taken
possession of the Kop Dagh without resistance, and are
moving into the plain, threatening Baiburt, the central
strategic position of Armenia. There is not even the shadow
of resistance. I think it very probable that the counsels of
Edhem Pacha have been adopted : the idea that if Western
Europe will not interfere, Turkey should make the best terms
with Russia.
D Gumuschane (Trebizond Road), January 17th. — After along.
struggle through storm and snow over the Vavou Dagh and
intermediate mountains, I have arrived here. I thought it
best to abandon Baiburt for various reasons. In the first
place, there is no European telegraph service at that village,
and in order to despatch my telegrams I was obliged to have
my messages translated into vague Turkish, and then sent on
through an intermediary station, where they had again to
undergo the risk of retranslation, a process which I fear has
not added to their lucidity. Coupled with this, there was1
that village jealousy of surveillance, ten times worse even
than at Erzeroum. Again, any moment might have found
me forced to fly precipitately, as I did from Blidge; for the

GUMUSCHANE. 453
last troops watching the advent of the Russians were with
drawn. I lived in daily, hourly fear of being surprised by
adventurous Cossacks ; and from a sore experience, I know
too much of the exigencies of warfare, especially under
present conditions, not to have serious misgivings as to the
fate of my horses, even though sheltered under the usually
segis name of a " war correspondent."
As far as Turkish arms are concerned, the situation in Armenia
is to aU appearances utterly hopeless. I have already nar
rated how I was chased out of Illidge by the Muscovite horse
men, when they came to occupy the decisive point as far as
the practical blockade of Erzeroum was concerned ; and I
have aHeady written at some length on the place itself. It
is some two hours' ride from Erzeroum, on the high road to
Trebizond. Its occupation cuts off all chance of throwing
supplies or troops into the beleaguered town without risking
the issue of a serious battle, and that, too, with serious
numbers. It is true that a couple of days after, the post,
carried by a couple of mules, managed to make its way out of
Erzeroum, following the difficult roads along the flanks of
the Palantoken mountains south-west of the town, and re
gaining the main road near the village of Aschkale.
An adventurous colleague, who, deceived by the boasts of the
garrison commanders, remained a day behind me, escaped by
the same route with the greatest difficulty. Since then, the
enemy's patrols have intercepted all access to Erzeroum by
high road and by mountain. The place is completely blocked,
and the Russian flying columns range far and wide, coUecting
for the benefit of the besieging army the large stores of
grain and forage in the outlying villages, which the improvi
dence of the Ottoman commanders allowed to remain in such
doubtful situations. The hopes of succour of the garrison
are small indeed. While at Baiburt, a force of 500 horsemen,
for the most part irregulars, aided by three infantry batta
lions, chiefly composed of convalescent soldiers, maintained a
kind of guard over the road leading from the Kop Dagh ;
and we had some reason to believe that we should at least be
warned in time of the approach of hostile forces, little as we
could do to impede their advance.

454 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Yesterday a telegraphic order from Constantinople sent the
entire cavalry force to Ersingan, together with considerable
stores of old Enfield and Minie rifles, the weapons destined, I
understand, to arm the surrounding population, and by the
formation of corps of Bashi-Bazouks to render less the
impunity with which the enemy's foraging parties might
move. It is rumoured to day that a battalion of 400 men is
on its way from Trebizond to reinforce the Baiburt invalids.
Even should they arrive, they can do little aught but sentry
duty. Oppose the Russian advance they cannot. Of course
the great hope is that Erzeroum wiH hold out till late in
the coming spring, when it is believed to be within the realms
of possibility that an army can be raised and marched to
its relief. The people here scarcely indulge in such a hope.
They are despondent to the last degree.
" The Russians," they say, " have taken Ardahan, Bayazid, and
Kars ; they have beaten us back step by step to Erzeroum ;
they will take Erzeroum ; and they will take the whole
country."
This is what the Turks say despairingly. As for the Armenian
population, it hopes and desires such an issue too much to
venture to give vent to an aspiration. Patriarchs and bishops
at Constantinople may pretend to agree as they will with the ;
Sultan's Ministers as to the advisability of the Armenian
population bearing arms in the Ottoman army, and may issue
admonitions and edicts to that effect. The patriarchs and
bishops dare not refuse the " invitation " to co-operate
with the Government ; and besides, they know full well
that all their mandates will fall stillborn on a population irre
vocably alienated from their masters by race, tradition, and
experience. Within the walls of Erzeroum itseff matters
could not be worse than they are. A typhus fever epidemic
rages. Even the medical staff is rapidly succumbing to it;
and the mortality in the hospitals is terrible.
The day before I left the town a military doctor made the remark
to me that, if the existing state of things continued, the Rus
sians had only to wait quietly outside and a brief space of
time would see the city without defenders. Add to this the
earnest yearning of a large section of the inhabitants to see

OBSTACLES TO PROGRESS IN ANATOLIA. 455
the Russians masters of the place, and it will readily be seen
that Erzeroum 'is scarcely in a position which could warrant
the belief of its holding out till a barely possible force comes
to its relief. The only Turkish army in Armenia is blocked
within its walls. It has become reduced to the position of a
mere garrison. Not even the shadow of an army intervenes
between the invaders and free access to the most remote
quarters of the province. One is almost tempted to believe
that the threat of the Grand Vizier to look to Turkish
interests alone, in case Europe refused to interfere, is being
carried into effect ; and that, knowing well that the annexa
tion of a large portion of Armenia must necessarily be amon"
the items of the Russian peace terms, he is already beginning
to save himseH the trouble of trying to avoid the inevitable,
and to win a place in the good graces of his adversary by
quiet submission. Many think so at least.
I was at first inclined to think that the Russians, taking advan
tage of the utter discomfiture of the Ottoman Anatolian
army, would push on to the very gates of Trebizond this winter.
I find that they seem to prefer making sure of Erzeroum
before they make another important step in advance. This
course of action is adopted, perhaps, as much from necessity
as choice. To undertake the double task of investing Erze
roum and Trebizond simultaneously would require at least an
army of 80,000, if not 100,000 men. The Russians, accord
ing to the most reliable information, do not exceed 40,000 in
number around Erzeroum. Notwithstanding all their efforts,
the snows of the Soghanli mountains have prevented the
arrival up to the present of an adequate amount of siege
artillery and ammunition to commence a serious bombard
ment, especially in face of the very considerable number of
guns of large calibre which defend the ramparts.
When this is the case as regards Erzeroum, there would be
little chance of attempting the siege of Trebizond, even in
the face of extempore earthworks, in view of the great and
difficult distances intervening between the present Russian
i positions and the coast. Trebizond could, it is true, be, like
: Batoum, blockaded on the land side ; but, like the latter, in
view of its sea communications, a mere passive blockade

456 • WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Would be futile. Only when time, favourable weather, and
the possession of Erzeroum shall have given them a chance of
active hostilities against it, will Trebizond be assailed — pro
bably towards the latter end of spring.
Meantime, the Russians content themselves with being virtually
masters of Armenia, from Kars to Ersingan, and from Baya
zid to the coast. It will be curious to see whether the Porte
will make an effort within the next .three months to create
another army in Armenia ; under the circumstances, I think
it highly doubtful ; if Turkey do not find an ally before then,
she will resign herseH to Kismet, and Russian possession of
part of her fairest territories.
As I rode to-day across the wintry wastes of the Vavouk
mountains, I witnessed again a repetition of the painful
scences of the Kop Dagh. The close advent of the Russians
rendered it necessary that preparations should be made for a
possible speedy evacuation of Baiburt ; and some 600 sick
soldiers, mostly men partly convalescent from dysentery and
typhoid fever, were at once despatched to Trebizond. I do
not suppose the half of them wiH reach their destination.
I have seen men in this condition dying beside me in the
"wretched cabins where we were forced to lodge. Some days
ago, as I mounted my horse, the corpse of my chamber com
panion was carried out.
The Turks make great capital out of the fact that the Russians,
some weeks after the capture of Kars, allowed the conva
lescent Ottoman soldiers to return to their friends, instead of
retaining them as prisoners. These Turkish soldiers chose ¦
this course of action themselves, and it is quite untrue, as
stated in a telegram which has come under my notice lately,
that they were " driven " from Kars. Quite the contrary.
They speak highly of the treatment they received while in
the enemy's hands ; and from my conversations with some j
of them, I learn that the many deaths which occurred on the
road were owing to unnecessary exposure to cold during the '•
night on the part of invalids, whose feverish anxiety to see
their friends would not allow them to take ordinary pre
cautions. It is odd enough that the very same authorities
who reprobate the conduct of the Russians with regard to ¦

DEATH- OF AN ENGLISH VOLUNTEER. 457
the Turkish wounded and sick, should themselves send off
on a journey of 100 miles, over Alp-like, snow-covered
mountains, men who can stagger along but feebly. As I
struggled through the blinding snow-mists of the Vavouk
mountains I saw gaunt, hollow-eyed men, clothed in the
tattered remains of what had once been uniforms. Their
feet were bound up in bunches of withered mountain sedge,
tied on with strips of rags and bits of ropes. Plodding mid-
leg deep in drifting snow, the accumulation of frozen matter
about their feet was almost enough to prevent walking. I
have seen these men lying gasping at the foot of the tele
graph posts, feebly holding out their hands, and begging a
morsel of bread in the name of Allah. Even a strong man
could not afford to linger in such Siberian wastes. Pro
bably, had I rode back over the same road I should have
scared the wolves from the bodies of the poor fellows whom
necessity forced me to pass by in those dreadful mountains.
I am sorry to have to chronicle the death of a young English
man, who came out here as a volunteer. Mr. W. H. Cowan
joined a regiment of irregular horse, served in the Aladja
army, and attacked by typhoid fever with subsequent dysen
tery died in the mUitary hospital of Kars shortly after its
occupation by the Russians. This I learn from the dragoman
of the English doctors, who were permitted to pass the
Russian lines before the bombardment commenced, and who
have returned to Europe vid Tiflis. I met the dragoman
outside Baiburt as he was returning after a long round to
the Turkish forces in that town.

458 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.

CHAPTER XVII.
CONCLUSION OF THE ASIATIC CAMPAIGN.
The Russians in Kars. — False Reports of Russian Inhumanity. — Absence of
General Loris Melikoff. — Orderly Behaviour of the Turks. — Diminution of
Typhoid Cases in Kars, and Outbreak of the Fever in Alexandropol. —
The Neighbourhood of Erzeroum. — Desperate Position of the Turkish
Cause. — Mohammedan Feeling. — Ismail Pacha's Refusal to Recognize the
Reported Terms of the Armistice. — Plunder of the Inhabitants. — The Im
pending Cession of Armenia. — Value of the Province to Russia. — Probable
Development of Railway Communication. — Future of Russian Rule in
Armenia. — Difficulty of Transmitting News. — Death of Mehemet Pacha. —
Sketch of bis Career. — Character of the Armenians, contrasted with that of
the Ottomans. — Village of Hamsi-Keui. — Despair and Misery of the People.
— Anecdote of » Wounded Soldier. — Difficulties of the Road. — Trebizond.—
Batoum. — Unsuccessful Russian Attack on Batoum. — Telegraphic Com
munication with Europe Interrupted. — Mukhtar Pacha and the Sheepskin
Coats. — Torpedo Exploits of the Russians at Batoum.
In the first two of the series of letters in this chapter we
return to Kars, which city had been in possession of the
Russians since the 17th and 18th of November of the previous
year, when it was captured by assault by the troops under the
command of General Loris Melikoff.

^ Kars, January 24th. — I have heard or read that in the year
1831, when the cholera played havoc with the Russian troops
in Poland, and general demoralization was on the eve of
spreading among them, the Emperor Nicholas issued an
order declaring that the cholera had ceased, and in conse
quence all officers and men were earnestly admonished not to
fall ill again with that disease. It is said that the moral
impression produced by this peremptory Imperial decree had
such an effect that the disease considerably diminished in
virulence and contagious intensity.

MEDICAL SYSTEMS. 459
Now, it seems, a similar course is followed here with regard to
typhoid. An allusion which I ventured to make in a private
letter was severely censured by the authorities, who denied
the epidemical character of the malady, and declared it to be
merely sporadic. I am thus bound, you see, to handle this
delicate subject somewhat tenderly. I know nothing about
the statistics or the records of sick and dead in the vdlages
and cantonments, but I hear that the victims there are
rather numerous. On the whole, however, I stick to the
belief that the civil population is by far the heavier sufferer
from the disease than the military. The latter is on an
average much better attended to, and can in most cases find
immediately the proper accommodation and medical assis
tance. A native, be he Turk or Armenian, having once
fallen seriously HI, never allows himself the luxury of a
doctor. He will call to his aid the experienced skiH of some
old gipsy woman, or the godly wisdom of some vagrant
dervish, whose direct relations with Heaven are not doubted
by the faithful. These scientific authorities, rewarded usually
with a few pence and a piece of black bread, of course hasten
the patient's transit to a better world with laudable celerity.
There is mourning and wading all over the country, but this
only concerns civilians, and is not officially recognized.
I do not wish, however, to speak disparagingly of the civil and
mditary administration here. They did indeed all they
possibly could do to stamp out the ghastly typhoid which had
its principal hotbed in the incredible filth of the Turkish
military hospitals. Slightly wounded' men affected with a
mild form of intermittent fever, and those reduced to an
unconscious state by acute disease, were all crammed indis
criminately into the wards, or into wretched houses or shops,
and, intermingled with dead and dying, were left to rot or to
recover at the Prophet's pleasure. There was no question of
order and medical attendance. The European professional
men — young Germans, Poles, and Hungarians — in the Porte's
service, were all, one after the other, seized by typhoid, and
were so panic-stricken and so disgusted by the intolerable
stench emanating from the neglected wards, that they did all
in their power to avoid their dangerous duty.

460 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
In their justification I feel bound to add that their Turkish
chiefs never paid the slightest attention to proposals or
applications made for the good of the service, but were only
busy filling their pockets to the detriment of the sick. These
died daily by scores, and the baneful disease took almost
every hour a firmer grasp on the hospitals and the city.
After the successful storming of this fortress, the Russians
immediately set to work and adopted the most energetic
measures against the treacherous disease. All the contents
of the hospitals, including provisions, were burnt. Not a
blanket, not a mattrass, escaped the fire. Even the rotten
boards of floors and ceilings were torn out and condemned to
the flames.
These rigorous proceedings had, nevertheless, only a partial
effect. A thorough cleansing would have required a general
conflagration of the city of Kars. In the first instance,
many of the sick soldiers had concealed themselves with
their relations or friends in private houses, where they died,
of course spreading the germs of the disease throughout.
these dwellings. Secondly, the inhabitants of this part of
Armenia have the most filthy habits. There is Hterally no
provision for cleanliness or decency in the houses, and the
streets are the receptacles of every kind of disgusting filth.
In their hopeless struggle with the inveterate habits of such
people, no blame can be cast on the Russian authorities.
They did all they could do. Instead, however, of being
satisfied with the results gained, and of persevering arduously ']
with the work, they take other ground. They try to subject
typhoid to rules and regulations, without removing its causes.
Many functionaries wish, indeed, earnestly to niaka every
thing perfect under Russian rule. This is clearly a most
commendable spirit for individuals as well as for nations, ,
especially if they do their best to carry out their ideas. Other |
men of position, on the contrary, fall into the error of
believing that everything is already perfect in Russia, and
think any further improvement unnecessary.
I notice that the Turkish official accounts state that the Russians :
had driven about 2,000 sick and wounded across the snow-
covered country from Kars to Erzeroum, where only 400 of

RUSSIAN TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 461
them arrived alive, in a destitute condition. AU the remainder
are reported as having died on the road through cold and
privation. The fact is that the Russians, after the capture of
Kars, were overburdened with about 17,000 prisoners, and
' 5,000 Turkish sick and wounded. The small Russian army
could not have properly dealt with such numbers without
neglecting its own sufferers, amounting to thousands. Besides,
a large portion of the forces had to be told off to escort and
guard the undisciplined crowd. So the authorities shut their
eyes to deserters. The houses of Kars were never searched,
although it was well known that hundreds of armed Ottoman
soldiers had taken refuge there. Whosoever tied the Red
Crescent round one of his arms was perfectly at liberty to go
wherever he thought convenient, without being molested by
sentries or patrols. Many availed themselves of the oppor
tunity thus given to them, and escaped in plain clothes.
The men in the hospitals were on a different footing, owing to
their confinement under the superintendence of warders and
the guard outside. These were spoken to, and the choice
was left to the less serious cases, either to be treated here or
elsewhere by the Russian medical staff, and when cured
detained as prisoners of war, or to take care of themselves
among their relations and friends. Longing for personal
liberty, and terrified at the idea of a prolonged captivity, all
who believed themselves able to walk or to proceed by any
conveyance wanted to be off at once. It is, therefore, not to
be wondered at that a considerable fraction of the stronger
patients pronounced for freedom. Accordingly they were
released without further ceremony. After having each
received a rouble and a ticket of passage from the Russian
authorities, they took charge of themselves, every one f olio-w
ing the shortest road to his homestead. What subsequently
may have occurred to them is beyond the reach of our
observations. The truth is that the whole country, plains
and mountains, is strewn with Turkish villages, where a
fatigued, hungry, or sick Ottoman soldier can easily find
food, shelter, and sympathy, in conformity with the prover
bial hospitality of the East. The fact that of the 2,000
soldiers 400 really arrived at Erzeroum is so much the more

462 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
astonishing as nobody here expected it. These poor fellows
were not at all bent upon serving again, and, therefore, were
eager to avoid impressment a second time into the ranks
during the war. Most of them, with the exception of those
who belonged to the city of Erzeroum itseH or its immediate
environs, made a circuitous trip around it, and tried to reach
their snow-buried villages clandestinely.
The hundreds of men reported as having been frozen to death
existed only in Mukhtar Pacha's imagination. He imputes
to his enemy the atrocities which he would have commited
hiniseH under similar pressure. His method of despatching
prisoners and wounded is weU known. The information
which I have obtained from eye-witnesses corroborates the
statement that the Russian prisoners and wounded have been
simply killed on the field of battle by indirect orders from
the superior Turkish officers. When time was left torture
was never objected to. Only ten or twelve Russian prisoners
have been spared by the Turks during the whole Asiatic
campaign.
In reference to military operations, nothing positive has yet
transpired. General Loris Melikoff is the only man who
would not hesitate to explain the true state of things in
frank and explicit language. UnhappUy, he is absent again,
after a few days' stay here, and there is no sign indicating
his speedy return. I have not had the pleasure of seeing
him for the last two months. To foHow him to Erzeroum is
out of the question. Even the majority of the officers
belonging to his staff have been left behind, very much
against their wishes, and their applications for permission to
go to the front have not been complied with. The reason is
that the small town of Hassankale, and all the villages
around it and Erzeroum, are actually overcrowded with
officers, soldiers, horses, and commissariat stores. No accom
modation can be afforded there to volunteer or supernu
merary staff officers, still less, of course, to mere camp
followers. Besides, vehicles cannot be obtained for money,
because the snow is very deep, the cold intense, and forage
not to be found.
Here in Kars the temperature varies from ten to twenty-five

A PATERNAL GOVERNMENT. 463
degrees Celsius below zero, which in itself is disagreeable
enough to endure in badly-constructed houses by the un
happy inmates. But sometimes fearful blasts double and
treble the intensity of the cold, and thickly- whirling snow
drifts sweep over the ice-bound country. This state of
things may serve as a standard by which to judge of the
manner in which such weather must tell on the besieging
army before Erzeroum, that town being situated about 1,000
feet higher above the level of the sea than Kars. Moreover,
I do not believe I am mistaken in supposing that typhoid
is paying its awful visits to all the villages around there,
and sweeping away hundreds of the squalid natives. At the
same time, of course, it is not impossible that some soldiers,
crowded with them, may also succumb to the disease.
This, however, is a mere surmise on my part.
I hear that, in spite of the difficulties owing to the un
favourable season, Erzeroum has been closely invested, so
that Turkish troops or provisions cannot enter into that
fortress without running the risk of being intercepted and
captured. Thanks to the Persian trade, Erzeroum is not
only one of the largest, but also one of the wealthiest,
cities of Asia Minor. In commercial importance it is, per
haps, only second to Smyrna. It is, therefore, not impro
bable that its corn merchants have hoarded considerable
quantities of grain in their magazines, with the view of
selling it at the proper moment to the necessitous classes
or the Government at famine prices. In addition, the
citizens being every winter blocked up by the snow, and
shut out from all practical communication for months, are,
even in time of peace, in the habit of buying up and
storing ample provisions, including meat, which is preserved
in ice, for the whole winter. The labourers and workmen,
compelled to live every day on every day's earnings, cannot
indulge in that luxury of precaution. But who is caring
for them ? A paternal Government like the Turkish will
either summon them to enlist on starvation rations, or leave
them to die of hunger and misery and the blessing of the
Prophet.
With reference to the garrison, we may safely rely upon the

464 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
savage energy of Ismail Pacha. No doubt he availed him
self of the two months' respite, during which the Russian
blockade had been more or less imperfect, to replenish the
military magazines with every article of preservable food.
The situation of the beleaguering Russians is, on the other
hand, anything but enviable, as I have stated before. Defi
ciency of provisions or difficulty in getting them to the
spot where wanted, scarceness of fodder, insufficient lodg
ings, unbearable cold and mortal disease, combine to render
the sojourn of troops there almost insupportable, but at the
same time give new proof of the admirable endurance and
unshaken courage of the Russian soldiers. They certainly
mean to hold out till spring. Their generals cannot settle
the question whether it is not more advantageous to expend
the lives of some thousand men at once in a desperate
escalade than to sustain daily losses, which finally summed
up, are likely to show a still heavier return of disabled
soldiers.
More than once rumours have been spread here of the fall of
Erzeroum, but no saluting shots have hitherto confirmed the
welcome news. Again, just now, an assault is said to be
imminent, and will at all events be attempted before the
end of this month. I, however, still hope that the com-
manding general will resist that temptation, and postpone or
abandon the scheme. It is evident enough that the attempt
would be like that of a man jumping with an axe in his hand
at a laurel twig trembling over the edge of a chasm. It is
more reasonable under these circumstances, to cut the whole
tree down. There is no absolute necessity to risk, if not the
whole result, at least the prestige of the campaign in Asia,
by leading thousands of brave fellows to be butchered before
well-constructed ramparts. The capture of Erzeroum cannot
be of primary importance, in view of the inevitable coll
of the Turkish power about to take place.
Here in Kars everybody keeps the peace. The Turks behave as
well as they may always be expected to behave when their ]
inferiority is brought home to them by stern arguments.!
They submit without grumbling to a force superior to their
own. Hitherto they have comforted themselves with the

DARING 'MISDEEDS. 465
delusion that Russia means or will be compelled to restore
the conquered territory to the Commander of the Faithful,
now their confidence is somewhat shaken. They are, how
ever, resolved not to remain under the rule of an infidel
Government, but to emigrate to the southward. There is
room for many graves yet in the fever-stricken valleys of
Asia Minor.
We hear here sometimes, rather too often, of daring burglaries
and other misdeeds, of which regular and irregular soldiers
are accused by public opinion. The other night an infirm
Turk had his throat cut in the street by an artilleryman who
meant to rob him. To his deep disappointment, however,
the murderer did not discover a single farthing in his vic
tim's pockets. Afterwards he dragged the corpse to the
river with the intent of concealing it under the ice. But en
route he was arrested by a patrol, and is now awaiting his
fate in gaol. As you know, capital and corporal punishment
have been abolished in Russia, and in ordinary times nobody
can be put to death for whatever crime he may have
committed. In time of war, however, martial law is pro
claimed in the, army, and the districts occupied by it, and
then sentence of death may be passed by the military
courts.
January 28th. — I am informed that typhoid has greatly dimi
nished in Kars at present, and that fatal cases ending with
death seldom occur. On the other hand, I hear that the
disease has fixed its principal residence now in Alexandropol,
the Russian frontier town, thirty-six miles from here.
A Kars, February 8th. — Official news has reached us that the
Russian army before Erzeroum was likely to enter that
fortress on the 4th inst., in conformity with the stipulation
of the armistice. Whether this important event has really
taken place, or whether it has been deferred on some
unknown grounds, we have hitherto been unable to ascertain.
This uncertainty arises from the circumstance that all official
reports are sent directly from head-quarters at Hassan Kale to
the Grand Duke in Tiflis. It is thus that our public here is
VOL. II. h H

466 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
very seldom gratified with an authentic despatch. In default,
we are frequently beguiled with the most extraordinary
rumours, adapted to the fancy, mood, and desires of some
inventive genius bent upon exciting or amusing an eager and
credulous auditory. No reliance, therefore, can be placed
here on anything that may be said, unless official accounts
confirm it. Although these substantiate the barren facts with
remarkable conciseness and accuracy, they are anything but
explicit, omit the most interesting details, and slip into
silence over the less glorious circumstances. We usually
learn the particulars of events in our immediate neighbour
hood through the erroneous statements of the Tiflis papers.
This is almost incredible, but literally true. A winter of
extraordinary severity has set in, and the weather is worse
than at St. Petersburg. Terrific snow-drifts and chiHy blasts
sweep occasionally over the denuded plains and hills, and
render traveUing for civilians very' difficult and nearly
impossible. Traders, no doubt, must sometimes run the risk;
but the news which they forward is anything but trust
worthy. Officers and orderlies, on the other hand, either do
not care for events not connected with their service, or
indulge the general passion of embeUishing facts with their
own fancy.
While writing these lines I am informed that new difficulties,
quite in the Turkish fashion, have arisen with regard to the
surrender of Erzeroum which is stipulated in the armistice.
Ismail Pacha, the tenacious successor of Mukhtar, has declined
to accede to General Loris Melikoff's summons demanding
the withdrawal of the Turkish garrison and the subsequent
occuption of the city by the Russian troops. Though the
fanatical Pacha is still suffering from typhoid, he is, even in .
his precarious state of health, noways deficient in the
traditional shrewdness and the low cunning of his class. His
apology for politely refusing to recognize the preliminaries of
peace rests upon the allegation that, in consequence of the :
close investment of Erzeroum, no orders from Constantinople |
had yet reached him. He added, however, that if the
Russian commander would allow him to avail himself of the
first Ottoman telegraph station he would not object to

ISMAIL PACHA. 467
communicate with the Porte for ultimate instructions. This
apparently reasonable demand has been granted.
The Pacha's conduct, nevertheless, seems to be rather strange,
and cannot be accounted for but by the secret desire of
gaining time at any cost. The Turks still cherish the hope
that an unexpected political incident may give things a
favourable turn, and, therefore, they cling with teeth and
nails to every drifting straw. It can hardly be believed that
a place of the importance of Erzeroum has been wiped out of
the memory of the Stamboul rulers in their recent troubles.
It is true that the Armenian capital has been of late closely
blockaded, and the telegraph wires have been cut all round ;
but, nevertheless, it would have been a comparatively easy
task to forward a message from Constantinople to Trebizond
and even Baiburt. Thence a courier would have brought it,
with Russian permission, in three days to Erzeroum. Either
the necessary orders were withheld by the Porte on purpose,
or Ismail Pacha, guided by secret instructions, feigned to
ignore them, ostensibly on his own responsibility, thinking it
expedient to delude and hamper the Russians as long as
possible. All sorts of misgivings are justified in negotiations
with such Asiatics as the Turks have proved to be.
Tn the meanwhile the prospects of the Russian army cannot be
Very promising. If the troops had been called out of theH
cantonments, and massed with the view of entering Erzeroum
on a fixed day in the present frightful weather, not only their
disappointment must have been deep, but also their physical
sufferings might have brought many men to their graves.
Typhoid, moreover, has settled permanently among them.
The natives, if surprised when travelling by a whirling snow
drift, relinquish all hope of reaching the next underground
village, however near they may guess it to be. If on horse
back, they dismount quickly and leave the animal to his fate.
Then squatting down on the road, and wrapping themselves
in their large felt cloaks,.with their faces turned to leeward of
the gale, they resign themselves to whatever may be in store
for them. Protected thus by the snow, a bad conductor of
caloric, from the fierceness of the icy blast, they await
patiently in their awkward position the end of the storm, or
h h2

468 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the end of all their worldly miseries. Whether the Russians
in their light and narrow capotes are able to adopt similar
measures of precaution, is questionable.
However this may be, it is certain that Ismail Pacha by his pro
crastination annoys his victors very much in a quite unex
pected manner, inflicting upon them at the last moment
heavy losses with Parthian arrows. His motives for per
severing in this suspicious policy may have been strengthened
by hearing of the severe defeat which the Russians lately
suffered in an unsuccessful attack on a Turkish position
before Batoum. It is said that they sustained there a loss of
a general, sixteen officers, and 700 rank and file. We are
here only acquainted with that event through mere rumours.
The Russian discomfiture, however insignificant it appears in
comparison with the results in RoumeHa, caused here con
siderable anxiety. As it is magnified by the glowing fancy of
the Turks into a momentous victory, it may have influenced the]
Pacha's counsellors and actuated his own strange conduct.
The prospect of seeing the whole of the vilayet of Erzeroum :
and a portion of the province of Trebizond, with Batoum,;
handed over to Russia, is filling the Turks with horror and:
dismay. They refuse obstinately to believe that such-
disadvantageous conditions of peace have been entered into :
by the Porte. Moreover, theH project of emigration next;
summer to pure Moslem districts has been seriously interfered!
with by that vast cession of territory. They expected toil
quit themselves of the infidel by simply crossing the Soghanli;
• Mountains, and settling beyond them in a genial country,^
familiar to them all. Now, unfortunately, the question is.,
widened. Should they insist on their scheme of sulkyj
defiance, they would see themselves compelled to carry then;,,
household gods hundreds of miles away from their formei1
homes, into a country filled with savage ruthless Kurds
Under these cHcumstances it is not astonishing that man]
turbaned grumblers mean to think twice, and are likely t<
prefer ultimately the lenient administration of the Moscov,
Giaours to the cruel exactions of hungry Pachas am
murderous thieves in distant Kurdistan. .
In contradiction of what has been reported about RussiaJ,

TURKISH RESIGNATION. 469
cruelty, it must be said that if there be injustice it is rather
attributable to an excess of forbearance in the application of
the law than to its infringement by the officials. There can
be no doubt that the Mohammedans in Russia, be they
Caucasians, Tartars, Kurds, Turcomen, or Kirghis, are by, far
more comfortable and give less trouble, than their brethren
under the Sultan's anarchical sway. In Turkey only the
Pacha tribe or caste, their subordinates, and their retinue of
servants, bankers, and contractors, have little to complain of.
They are neither overtaxed nor ill-treated. They always take
and never give. Russia, on the contrary, is following now a
wise and genuine Roman policy. The subjected populations
enjoy full civil and religious rights. No functionary has the
power or is disposed to meddle with their mode of living,
whether as agriculturists, merchants, and tradesmen, or as
ever-shifting nomads. The taxes are very moderate indeed,
and, moreover, nearly all the Moslems are exempted from the
conscription. In time of war they are simply bound to raise,
if necessary, a well-remunerated volunteer cavalry force.
The system, however, is different if ' the conquered or
incorporated nationality should enter into open insurrection.
Then little mercy is shown. Every village is burnt to the
ground, every household article is destroyed, and the rebels
are shot down wherever they are found until they come to
terms.
t Our Turks here, however, do not now dream of trying the
fortune of arms with theH conquerors. They have opened
theH shops, and follow their trades and vocations with the
stoical tranquillity peculiar to their race. Some are even
honest enough to avow that they have never in their life
enjoyed such perfect calm and security as at present. When
theH countrymen were in power, they were robbed shame
lessly of every horse and bullock, and of every bushel of
wheat and barley within sight. Never a farthing was paid
for what was exacted. Now, to their great astonishment,
they see themselves crushed under a shower of paper roubles
which the generous-hearted and free-living Russian officers
lavish upon them. Turks and Armenians charge tenfold
prices for their inferior goods, especially provisions. My

470 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
landlord, an ex-Softa, told me that ten of his best milch
cows had been transferred, without his permission, into the
field-kettles of the Sultan's soldiers. On denouncing the
thieves he met only with a shrugging of official shoulders.
Now he is taking his revenge on me. The rural population
is almost reduced to mendicity. The drain of young men by
reckless conscription was terribly destructive.
Well-informed people assure me that Armenia has aHeady lost
one-half of her original male population. Some 13,000
soldiers, prisoners, and inhabitants, most of them the victims
of neglect and typhus, have been buried near Kars alone
since its occupation by Russia! One shudders to think of
the rate of mortality under the Turkish rule. The villages
are the abodes of misery, starvation, and typhoid. Many
houses had in the summer-time the beams of their roofs
taken off by the Ottoman soldiery for culinary purposes, and
were rendered thus utterly uninhabitable for the returning
fugitive families. With my own eyes I saw five deserted
hamlets entirely demolished in this manner. It is true that
the example set has been followed in many instances by the
Russians. The soldiers in some cantonments and bivouacs
are placed in the alternative of either freezing to death or of
unroofing some of the neighbouring empty huts. For all
that, there is little complaint, and cries for assistance in
distress are as unusual as begging is among the destitute.
The merciless tyranny of Pachas and Effendis has accustomed
the people to suffer and die in silent resignation. It is not
easy to extort from an obese Pacha a penny of his ill-gotten
wealth, without presenting him with more than adequate
compensation. Begging dervishes and lunatics are some
times the objects of his liberalities, because they are supposed
to be connected with a demoniacal world, enjoying the privi
lege of the evil eye, and other supernatural gUts.
In reference to the impending incorporation of Armenia Major
by Russia, I can only repeat that the idea is so new and
startling to the people here that they deem its realization'
impossible. They contend that the military situation here
is not so hopeless as to justify the cession of an enormous
territory, nearly equal in extent to the kingdom of the

RUSSIAN RAILWAY SYSTEM. 471
Netherlands and Belgium put together. They do not take
into account what is going on before the very gates of
Stamboul, and they do not attach credence to the Russian
official statements. One fine morning, however, they are
likely to become fully aware that the Porte has paid the
penalty of its scandalous misconduct and obstinacy.
It does not need much penetration to understand that this new
Asiatic acquisition is of the highest value to Russia. From
the Armenian highlands she can easily command the roads to
Mossul through Bitlis, to Diarbekir through Harput, and to
Siwas and Tokat through Ersingan and Kara Hissar. That
is to say, Mesopotamia as well as Anatolia is at her mercy.
Even more so is Persia. The exclusive outlets for the all-
important northern provinces of that sunburnt kingdom lead
by Tiflis or Erzeroum to the Black Sea. The traders, how
ever, prefer invariably the latter road, because the journey is
shorter, more convenient, and cheaper. Russia, therefore,
once in possession of Erzeroum, is mistress of the Shah's
chief revenue, and can starve him into submission, should
he ever dream of freeing himself from her powerful in
fluence. Very soon, and without much entreating, the Shah
will be glad to grant the construction of a railway from Tiflis
to Teheran, a scheme which has been already under the con
sideration of the Russian Council of State.
At Vladikawkas the Russian railway system ends in the south
east, arrested by the formidable barrier of the Caucasus,
which separates it from Tiflis, the capital of Transcaucasia.
The distance between the two towns on either slope of the
mountain range is a Httle above 100 miles measured on the
metalled road. A railway parallel to the latter would requHe
t an enormous outlay for tunnels, bridges, and viaducts, and is
therefore, in the present state of the Russian Financial De
partment, out of the question. This project having been
i finally discarded, another plan has been prepared and studied,
and, if I am not mistaken, approved by the Emperor and the
p' CouncU of State. From Vladikawkas, the terminus of the
already completed Russian railways, the new line follows
first the northern foot of the spurs of the Caucasian mountain
range through the vaUey of the Terek, and thence the western

472 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
shore of the Caspian Sea to Baku, the most important town
and harbour on that gigantic lake. From this place one line
is intended to branch off to Tiflis, while another is to run to
the Persian frontier and thence to Teheran. The Russian
portion of these railways, namely, the sections from Vladi
kawkas to Baku, and from Baku to Tiflis, has been traced
and prepared for construction, and, but for the war, the
works would have been now in full execution. With regard
to a future prolongation of the line through Persia, little
doubt can be entertained as to the Shah's assent. He will
be a mere tool in the Emperor's hands in future.
Once firmly established in Teheran, the Russian Company,
being of course only the mouthpiece and instrument of the
Government, will be at liberty to push slowly onward to
Herat, through fertile and well-irrigated Khorassan. As
long as Armenia was in Turkish hands, as long as Kars and
Erzeroum threatened and outflanked the Russian political
and military advance through Persia, the railroad schemes
were unsafe. It was not so much an Ottoman army, as the
fear of a general revolt excited by its presence among the
Caucasian Mohammedan population, which troubled Russian
views on the northern provinces of Persia. General Loris
Melikoff, when neutralized last summer at Kurukdere, cared
much less for Mukhtar's position on the Aladja than for a
Moslem rebellion, and subsequent wholesale massacre of the
Armenians on the first Turkish battalion crossing the Arpa
Sou. A vast conspiracy with that object had been discovered,]
but was prudently disregarded. Now the obstacle is on the
point of being finally removed. Without claiming the gift
of prophecy, I venture to predict that before two years from
the conclusion of peace the Russian portion of the above-
mentioned railways will be in full construction, while the
other on Persian territory is likely to be diligently studied
and traced out.
Whatever may be said on the question, it is obvious that only ,
in Eastern Asia is Russia likely to become dangerous to
England. In Europe the great military continental States
are resolved to watch over their common interests with no
less eagerness than Great Britain. The task of dislodging

TREBIZOND. 473
Eussia from her natural fastnesses in the Armenian highlands
is beyond the present strength of England and her possible
Asiatic allies. Nor can Persia, either by her own exertions
or with external help, disentangle herself from the tight
grasp of the double-headed eagle.
The Turks, on the other hand, are at any rate thoroughly
disabled. Although they may look wistfully back to their
lost prestige and ruined fortune, and may be anxious to
snatch an opportunity of re-establishing their ancient domi
nation, their chance of succeeding in the undertaking is very
slight indeed. Their rulers will most probably continue to
mismanage what may be left in their sanguinary hands, and
inaugurate anew with tyrannical blindness the old system of
arbitrary exactions and venality. The morals of their leading
statesmen and principal functionaries are so rotten and corrupt
that none of them could resist the temptation of preying on
the treasury of the unhappy subjects. Russia, on her part,
is decidedly in the possession of the necessary moral ele
ments for her future growth and consolidation. Even the
present war is sure to increase her intrinsic strength by
teaching her her faults. She will not fail to cast aside her
inefficient institutions as well as the men who have not risen
to the level of their duties.
The subjoined letters are from the correspondent lately in
Erzeroum. D Trebizond, February 12th. — It may seem strange to the
uninitiated that any intelligent person resident at Trebizond
should not be well informed of passing events in Armenia,
even up to the latest moment. Let them not think this is a
land where railroads and telegraphs bring hourly intelligence
of passing circumstances. Telegraph there is — that of Erze
roum, cut by the Russians ; that of Ersingan, where nothing
is going on, daily interrupted by storms ; that of Batoum,
practically entirely in the hands of a by no means impartial
authority. Telegrams for this latter town are received with
a cheerful alacrity, which shows that, as at other points where
I have been, the employes depend for their salaries on the

474 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
receipts for non-official messages ; but as far as replies to the
same go, one might as well telegraph to Hades. I need
hardly say that in Armenia there are no raUways — I mean
in Turkish Armenia, for from Tiflis to Poti, in Russian terri
tory, there is a short one, which, according to all accounts,
has but little to do except conveying troops and mflitary
stores at the present juncture. There used to be regular
steamers from Trebizond to Batoum, and one would have
naturally thought that the exigencies of a large and actively
employed garrison would have, if not multiplied the com
munications, at least not diminished them. Quite the con
trary", however. The regular service has stopped, and even
a transport steamer is a rare phenomenon ; so rare, that
during my fortnight's stay I have not been witness of such
an occurrence.
Again and again I have gone down to the pier and scrutinized
the horizon with my field-glass in hopes of discovering the
welcome smoke-stream that announced a coming hope. Over
and over again I have called on the Pacha, and importuned
the agencies and ship-brokers. Much hope was given, but
all ended in wailing and gnashing of teeth on my part. If
I were _<Eneas, and fabled Ausonia my destination, the Fates
could not have frowned more darkly between us than in their
apparently malignant endeavour to prevent my getting to the
insignificant port of Batoum.
I do not know whether this untoward combination of circum
stances is mere chance, or only the result of the general
insouciance and " devil-take-the-hindmost " policy apparently
adopted at present by the Ottoman authorities. Each time
I visited the pier the horizon was blank ; the signal stations
were undemonstrative ; the coastguards shook their heads,
and I was morally left " on the bleak shore alone." All the
positive and authentic news from Batoum I have long since
telegraphed and written about : the attack on the command
ing position some days after the announcement of the armis
tice ; the previous exploits of the Russian torpedoes ; and
the final fact that the town remained untaken.
From Erzeroum our only news comes through the Persian
courier, who, starting from Teheran, is allowed to pass the

DEATH OF MEHEMET PACHA. 475
Russian lines around Erzeroum. This privileged being is
not, unfortunately, as intelligent as he is fortunate ; and the
news to be gleaned from his Asiatic understanding is not of
the most lucid nature. Here is the last batch of intelligence
from this source. I telegraphed it briefly before. Mehemet
Pacha, the " Capitan Pacha," as they called him, the bravest
man on this side of the Bosphorus, is dead — dead of typhus
fever, the prevailing epidemic in Erzeroum.
As it is not likely that another chronicler of his brief life may
be found, I will say a few words about him. I first knew
him as a colonel of a line regiment — its number I don't re
member. He was aged about thirty-two years, and was born
of either Hungarian or Polish parents. He had always been
selected by Mukhtar Pacha for any deed of daring which the
exigencies of the campaign called for, and always came out
of the trial with the most brilliant credit. He was a man
who shone among his brethren in the war in Asia. I met
him first in the tent of the chief of the staff. He had just
been named to conduct the difficult and dangerous emprise
of surprising the Russian position on the hill of Kiziltepe,
the advanced point which they held nearest our lines on the
Aladja Dagh of fateful memory. He conducted his mission
in a manner which weU sustained his past reputation. He
placed the final stone of the edifice of his successes which
won for his chief the title of Ghazi (victorious), and came
back with only a slight flesh wound over his heart, where,
thanks to his thick overcoat, the bullet had not gone deeper.
And said he that eventful evening, " The commander-in-chief
didn't even say so much as 'thank you' to me." He didn't know
that Mukhtar Pacha had telegraphed to Constantinople, ask
ing the grade of brigadier-general for his gallant subordinate.
As general of brigade he conducted the defence of the lesser
Yagni hill (Yagni Coute huk), which foiled the tremendous
Eussian attack of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th October. He was
eight times assailed with the obstinate courage of Russian
soldiers, and in vain. Once more in the same position on
the memorable day of the 15th of October, which saw the
Turkish army flying routed to Kars, the " Capitan Pacha "
alone held his ground on the left flank, and only retreated

476 . WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
on Kars the morning after the two days' fighting had been
won by the Russians. He commanded our rear guard
when we fled with a straggling remnant of the army of
Armenia from Kars, and all through justified his reputation.
When the Russians, after their overwhelming victory of the
pass of Deve-Boyun, tried to storm Erzeroum on the evening
of the 9th of November, and captured one of the principal
forts commanding the town, the Azizie, it was Mehemet
Pacha who, leading the forlorn hope, stormed the tremendous
heights, and retook the fortress — saving the town. Had the
Azizie remained in the enemy's hands Erzeroum was irre
trievably lost. After this he played an important part in the
defence on the second attempt to storm the town three days
later at eight in the evening ; and I recollect well, when the
raindrops of the heavy storm-shower were flashing like gold
in the unintermitting blaze of the heavy guns and the long
musketry fire lines, the voice of Mehemet Pacha was to be
heard cheering the men on the eastern ramparts. He was
the life and soul of the defence of Erzeroum. He caught
the fatal epidemic raging there, and expHed a week after I
left the place. So much in memoriam of the bravest soldier
of the army of Armenia.
The Persian courier further stated that he believed the Russians
had occupied Erzeroum in pursuance of the terms of the
armistice, and that the French consul had been allowed to
send his official despatches unopened across the investing
lines some time previously. The snow was deep, all but
impassable, when he came over the Kop and Zigana Daghs.
This was hardly news ; the same state of affairs prevailed
when I came over the same road. Other news from the
interior there is none, save that the road to Trebizond
still continues in the same undefended state as before. Not
a man, not a gun, not a breastwork, to impede a Russian
advance to the coast when spring suns shall have lessened
the snow drifts on the mountains.
I unconsciously enter on this theme of defence, inspired by the
opinions expressed freely aronnd me, to the effect that the
armistice has only been signed for the purpose of getting
over a weather crisis, and that the combat is to begin— '

CHARACTER OF THE ARMENIANS. 477
perhaps with a wider scope— in the coming spring. Such,
at least, is the local belief, possibly inspired by the wish. In
fact, most probably. I am hardly surprised that such ideas
have taken hold of men's minds in Armenia, Few though
may be the serious thinkers in it, they have instinctively
learned to be antipathetic to a policy which has wrought
nought but a long-lived sufferance, coupled with periodic
disasters, for a country whose climate, products, and in
habitants fit it for a better fate. There are traditions of a
better time, before the Osmanli descended from the wilds ;
and there are remnants of a past civilization which the race
dominant to-day has never been able to reconstruct or
replace.
Taken individually, I do not esteem Armenians ; and I speak
from a long and painful intercourse with them. Whether
this unlovable character be the result induced by long
subordination to ruthless masters or not, I can hardly say.
A dominant race has generally all the admired virtues, the
subjected one the reverse. I only know that from the point
of view of modern civilization, the Armenian seems to me
infinitely more adapted to modern progress than the race
which to-day controls his destiny. The faults of a dominant
race are generally overlooked or palliated ; but the moment
force begins to fad, the moment Prince Bismarck's policy of
" blood and Hon " can no longer be carried into effect, a
microscope-like observation is brought to bear on its defaults.
Whatever may have been the merits of Osmanli militarism
in the past— and no doubt in this respect the Turks were as
admirable as theH synchronous rivals, I don't suppose their
warmest admirers can say that they contributed one atom to
the immense scientific, if not social, progress of the past fifty
years. Towards the " woman's suffrage " they certainly did
not contribute much. " An incarnation of military force "
the Ottomans once were, unmistakably, up to the clay when
John Sobieski overthrew them under the walls of Vienna,
and for many a long day after ; an incarnation of what we
call progress they certainly never were — possibly never
will be.

478 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
n 'Village of Hamsi Keui (Slopes of Zigana Mountains),
January 25th. — Even after the commencement of the evil
turn things took here for the Turkish army after the fatal
retreat of the 8th October, I could scarcely have believed
matters would arrive at their present pitch. Armenia is
virtually, if not absolutely, in Russian hands. The last
army which held the province in the name of the Sultan
is reduced to the condition of a besieged garrison, without
even a hope of succour. Pestilence and fever are rife in
Erzeroum, and the little fanaticism that sustained the soldiery
has long since given place to that hopeless despair, the natural
reaction of a forced enthusiasm.
I had always believed that Mohammedan feeling was a much
deeper one than circumstances have shown it to be. Intense
it is at moments, but, like most similar feelings, very apt to
burn itself out. I should scarce have had the courage to say so
much on such a question did not the circumstances compel me
to see the situation more vividly than falls to the lot of most'
people. I write these reflections in a wretched village on the
northern slopes of the Zigana Mountains. They are insphed
by what is daily, hourly, passing before me.
At Baiburt, the last place of any importance which remained
to the Turks on the Trebizond road, was a large depot of
convalescent soldiers. They had already passed the ordeal
of the passage of the Kop Dagh, and the "natural selection''
which took place was appalling to witness. The village whence
I date my letter was once among the most flourishing in
Armenia. Nine months ago, when I passed through it on
my way to Ahmed Mukhtar Pacha's head-quarters, it was
replete with activity and life. Now one sees empty home
steads. The doors bang to and fro with each passing snow-
gust, and the magpie and scald-crow are the usual occupants.
The inhabitants have fled, not before the Russians, but before
the Turks. And yet they are Turks themselves. But even
Mohammedan fanaticism and resignation have their limits,
The first Turkish battalions which marched along that fatal
road were received with a boundless enthusiasm. Turks
through love, Armenians through fear, gave them welcome,
and food and shelter were at the disposition of them all.

A TURKISH INVALID. 479
But when, during long months, there was a daily passage of
regiments and carriers, the inhabitants could no longer sustain
the burden. It was well to welcome a few thousand men
during some weeks ; but when the same thing went on for
months, there came a moment when even Mohammedan
patience gave way. Now the best houses are deserted.
The petrified city of Eastern story is no bad embodiment of
what exists here. Here and there a few melancholy inhabi
tants remain, too poor to fly. I have found a lodging where
a kind of thick quilt serves as a mattress. It is laid on a
floor of rough-beaten earth. The winter leaden light comes
in through the patched pyramidal roof of wooden " shingle."
The severity of the weather forbids opening of door or win
dow, and glass or even paper are unknown luxuries ; and we
live in a gloom as black as the political situation. It is the
house of a small shopkeeper, who ekes out a miserable living
by selling cigarette paper and thick sour milk to the fortunate
travellers who have a couple of pence to expend.
It is but ten minutes ago that a poor soldier, and invalid, one
of the wretched band sent off from the Baiburt depot, has
been at the door. He begged in the name of Allah to be let
in out of the withering storm outside. He vowed that he
had not a farthing, and that he was dying. He had been
wounded at the disastrous combat of the Aladja Dagh. In
the hospital he had caught the typhus epidemic. He was
a human ruin. Turkish peasants are proverbially kindly and
charitable ; and yet, despite the tears that ran down the
furrowed war-worn cheeks of the tottering soldier, he was
turned away from the door, away into the withering storm.
This will give an idea of the state of affairs in Armenia,
when the compatriot and co-religionist cannot possibly meet
with a more cordial reception. Despair is in every heart ;
and when I try to console the people I meet by telling them
of the " fortune of war," and so forth, they shake their heads
sadly, and teU me they know that all is lost.
I have aHeady written about the horrible system of sending off
sick men, tottering on their feet, across the snowy wastes of
the Kop Dagh. I thought that was the extreme of their
trials. I have since rode with difficulty over the Vavouk

480 WAR' CORRESPONDENCE.'
mountains, anl over the peaks of the Zigana, more than
13,000 feet high. In a climate like this — a Siberian one in
winter, a burning desert in summer, the snow lies from six
to ten feet high. I have found myself on the edge of a
precipice where the rock went down sheer 1,000 feet. Myself
and horse were literally buried in the snow-drift. The
animal's head was just above the snow, and I on his back
buried to the waist. The horse snorted wildly at the situa
tion, and more wildly, still when a couple of unfortunate
carriers struggled past, dragging after them the bleeding
skins of their beasts, fallen dead of fatigue in these dreadful
mountains.
Every one is so poor that, even when a wretched mule falls
exhausted under the unconscionable load of petroleum barrels
and alcoholic solution of mastic, which seems to constitute
the main cargo of these mountain caravans, before the animal
has yet ceased to breathe, his hide is torn roughly off, and the i
poor muleteers wade for weary miles, dragging after them the
bloody load to sell it for sixpence at the next khan. I ha d
seen the red traces in the snow previously; and I had been
at a loss to explain them. It was only when I saw the sad
reality that I could possibly imagine it. I counted over 100 raw
carcases of horses and mules during a day's struggle through
blinding sleet, and along cliffs were the blood turned cold to
look below.
I enter into these details by way of expressing strongly the
nature of the road over which a Russian army must pass to .
come to Trebizond. The road is the same up to the end of
April. Military men here consider that anything like a
direct march on Trebizond is out of the question. The
authorities believe that the forward Russian movement will
be made by way of Ersingan, the great centre of Armenian
agricultural prosperity. Thence, attacking columns, having :
reposed after the passage of the difficult part of the country .
beyond, can march to this town, where there is not a vestige
of fortification, where there are no troops, and where the
Russians would be received with open arms. It is an Ar
menian town, and I have more than once given my opinion
that the "Irmeni" population only wait the advent of the

trebizond. 481
Czar's legions to welcome them. This is an opinion in which
I think Ahmed Mukhtar. Pacha will agree with me. At
least, he told me so more than once.
D Trebizond, January 27th. — I have got here. I am thankful
for small mercies ; not that this is a small one — to come over
the mountains, where one's horse wades in shifting snowdrift.
I am more than ever confirmed in my belief that the base of
operations for the spring campaign will be principally at
Ersingan. As I came through Baiburt, hundreds of boxes
of old muzzleloading rifles, Enfield and Minie, were being
sent off on ¦camels to arm the population, and prevent the
Cossack flying columns from ranging with impunity far
and wide. For the moment there will be nothing. Erze
roum wUl falL It is only a matter of time. I leave for
Batoum on the first occasion to see an old acquaintance
there, Dervisch Pacha, with whom I made the Albanian
campaign. I return immediately, and start for the new base
at Ersingan ; meantime, I can only add that, notwithstanding
the arrival of a celebrated Mussulman saint at the same
place, and the concentration of all avaUable Bashi-Bazouks
there, the situation is, to my mind, a lost one.
? Trebizond, February 2nd. — Upon reaching this town after
my fatiguing and really dangerous journey over the mountains
intervening between this and Erzeroum, I finally fixed upon
either Batoum or Ersingan as the proper scene of action.
The road to Ersingan is as long and trying as that to
Erzeroum, and besides, continued rumours of immediate
peace negotiations and suspension of arms decided me to
forego for the moment visiting the spot which local tradition
; declares to have been the site of the Garden of Eden. I
finally decided on going to Batoum. The great question
became how to get there. The population and authorities
, of Trebizond seemed absolutely ignorant of how matters
j were progressing with Dervisch Pacha's command, but all
j* seemed to agree that the Russians aHeady occupied the road
,; which, running along the shore, connects this town with my
j,."' intended destination. Besides, I was too well acquainted
VOL. II. l 1

482 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
with the activity of the Georgian and Circassian irregular
horsemen in the Russian service to trust myself on a two
days' journey over a deserted road, admitted to be abandoned
by the Turkish troops.
I waited in vain for a war ship or transport steamer. For
seven days there has been no such means of transmit either
way ; and I was beginning to despair when our excellent
Consul here, Mr. Billiotti, this evening held out hopes of
Government vessels starting to-morrow. Should any such
good fortune await me, I wiU start at once for the border
town, which has been much neglected by correspondents,
owing to their necessary absence at more important scenes
of action. The telegraph to Batoum still exists, or is sup
posed to exist, as the telegraph people accept despatches for
that place ; but as far as I am able to judge, this existence
is only as regards high officials, as no answers ever come to
private messages.
It was only through the European newspapers that we learned
about the torpedo fight in the bay ; and now, though the
news of heavy fighting around Batoum has leaked out, it is
impossible to learn definitely how the thing ended. One
thing is sure, the Russians, strongly reinforced, attacked
the town on the southern side on the 30th of January, and
were repulsed, the Turks say, with heavy loss. In official
quarters rumour says that the fighting was still going
on yesterday evening ; and the absence of news, in view of
the existence of the telegraph, would seem to imply that the
Osmanlis had not had the best of it.
It seems strange that such fighting should be in progress so
many days after the signature of the armistice, which the
last copy of the Levant Herald received here says took place
on the 26th ultimo. StUl, a simdar instance came under my
notice in Herzegovina, where Mukhtar Pacha informed me
he was officially unaware of the armistice towards the end
of 1876, long after the Montenegrins were informed of it,
and only learned it definitely through a message from the
enemy. I recollect he attributed the delay to Dervisch
• Pacha, then commanding in Albania, and who now directs
the defence of Batoum. It may be that this last-named |

THE SHEEPSKIN COATS. 483
ioflicer has been informed on the subject of the armistice,
and the Russians as well. There are some uncharitable
people here who hint that the enemy acted advisedly, and
with a view of taking the garrison by surprise, and getting
into their possession one more material guarantee for terri
torial concession.
£|It seems that the telegraphic communications with Europe are
interrupted, at least direct ones. When I learned the news
of the Batoum fighting I sent a despatch to the telegraph
bureau, accompanied by the usual sum of money. It was
returned to me with the statement that instead of one franc
per word, two francs should be paid, as communications
beyond Constantinople were at an end. On further appHca-
tion I learned that communications dHect with Pera existed,
and that vid Syria and Egypt I might send messages direct,
their rapidity of transmission not being guaranteed. This
extra route accounted for the doubled tariff. I cannot make
out at what place the wires are cut ; but probably the inter
ruption has something to do with the Russian advance or
other military operations.
leveral large cannon, forwarded from Constantinople at the
commencement of the war, and which have ever since been
lying on the wharf here, are now being returned to the place
whence they came. They were originally destined for the
ramparts of Erzeroum ; but owing to the maladministration
of the ordnance department, which forwarded with them
gun-carriages adapted for pieces of a different calibre and
construction, they could not be made use of. In case of a
bombardment of Erzeroum, this glaring piece of mismanage
ment may seriously affect the issue of the operations ; and
it is probably only one specimen of many such that have
never come to light.
it the commencement of the campaign, Mukhtar Pacha, fore
seeing a prolongation of the campaign into the winter, taking
time by the forelock, commenced ordering sheepskin great
coats for his troops.
There is no use," he said, " trusting to departments at home
to have the necessary garments provided in time. I have
accordingly given the necessary orders to many different
i i 2

484 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
private establishments ; and to each I have given an order for!
the entire amount I require. In this way I hope to have a
chance of getting something like what is necessary in due
time. I
And yet the poor marshal was disappointed. Out of all his I
orders he got a few hundred coats ; and it was in the depth
of winter, when freezing to death and frostbite became
alarmingly frequent, that the skin coats were being roughly
manufactured on a scale entirely inadequate to the necessi
ties of the moment. Between negligent war departments in
Constantinople and unconfiding contractors elsewhere, who,
sceptical as to the reception of their money, declined the
advantageous contracts offered them, the Ottoman army in
the provinces has suffered much.
As I telegraphed yesterday, a messenger from Erzeroum has
arrived here, having obtained permission to cross the invest- •¦
ing lines, bearing consular despatches. He brings word that
even in the plains close by the town the snow is so deep as
to render travelling over them all but impossible. The oold
is intense, and houses are being demolished on a large 'scale
to procure firing for the garrison and population. Provisions
of every kind are enormously dear, and, notwithstanding the
cold, the typhus epidemic is still raging. At one of the Zaptieh
(gendarme) guard houses on the Zigana mountain, six of its
occupants were frozen to deatk When I had passed near
the same place on my way here two men lay dead on the
snow, and some others, overcome by the somnolence produced
by excessive cold, were being borne off by their companions.
The messenger also brings tidings that the Russians have
confined themselves to blockading Erzeroum, having attempted
neither bombardment nor assault since the investment was
completed. Neither has any further advance taken place in
the Baiburt or Ersingan direction. In fact the Siberian.
severity of the weather seems to have completely paralyzed
all active operations. Were it not for the terrible winter
climate Armenia would long since have been overrun, and
even this town would be in Russian hands. To me it seems
inexplicable why a town of the importance of Trebizond
has, up to this moment, been left in such a defenceless condi-

APATHY OF THE PEOPLE. 485
tion, both on the sea and land sides. There is a tumble
down medieval castle, and a scarcely more efficient sea
battery. Anything like the- defences of Erzeroum and Kars
does not exist, and the garrison consists of a few hundred
artillerymen. Ships of war or gunboats there are none to
guard the harbour. A couple of mortar-boats could at any
moment "run in and inflict tremendous damage on the town
before a cruiser could arrive. I am only surprised that up to
the present nothing of the kind has been attempted, espe
cially as it seems that the torpedo boats of the enemy have
been distinguishing themselves at Batoum.
As regards the population, it would be hard to imagine any
thing more poHtically languid than the spirits of the majority.
Armenians and Greeks predominate. They are solely com
mercial ; and, apart from their traditional dislike to the Otto
mans, theH trading instincts would make them welcome any
one whose administrations would stimulate trade and promote
enterprise. But both these races, here at least, have a violent
dislike to waiHke proceedings ; and I doubt whether on one
side or the other, for the existing Government, or even for
their own interests, they could be got to bear arms. In the
interior I found much more of a decided party spirit than
here. The comparative proximity of Trebizond to Europe,
the continued influx of strangers, and the influence of trade,
have combined to produce a cosmopolitan indifference to
nationality which would render it a most desirable acquisi
tion for " those about to annex." The Russian peace
terms, as published here, create no feeling of animosity or
¦ disgust.
" Do what you please," say the people, " but we beg you to let
us attend to our business."
As I have already written in a previous letter, the feeling of
depression among the Mussulman population of the province
is extreme. They have taken it into their heads that they
are thoroughly beaten, and with characteristic fatalism are
prepared for any changes which may ensue. Of course I
speak of the masses, not of the official set, who, as in every
country in the world, cling to the last to the fortunes of the
central administration. For my own part, I can scarce

486 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
believe in peace, unless all the Rusian demands be freely
granted, and that they will be I doubt. Russia has already
too sure a hold on Armenia, and is too near the consumma
tion of its conquest, to lightly relax her grasp. An armis
tice, with interchange of courtesies between the beUigerent
troops, wiU make the long winter months pass much more
agreeably for both parties. The Power which may have
troops at its disposal can march them tranquiUy to the front,
and then the spring campaign can be opened, to the satisfac
tion, it is to be hoped, of aU parties.
The foregoing brings to a close the series of letters descrip-
tive of the campaign in Asia. From this point the question of
the destiny of Armenia is transferred from the hands of the
military commanders to those of the diplomatists. What|
arrangements were finally arrived at between Russian and
Turkish plenipotentiaries with regard to territory in Asia, may ,
be seen by reference to Article XIX. of the Treaty of San ,
Stefano.

HOPELESSNESS OF THE TURKISH CAUSE.. 487
CHAPTER XVIII.
PERIOD OF THE PEACE NEGOTIATIONS.
Syra. — Anxiety regarding the Peace Conditions. — Orders for Cessation of Hostili
ties. — The Turkish Chamber. — Debate on Massacres at Bourgas. — At Mukhtar
Pacha's Headquarters. — Abandonment of the Turkish Lines of Defence. —
Skobeleff's Rapid March. — Difficulties in carrying out the Terms of the
Armistice. — Server Pacha's Policy. — Final Evacuation of the Neutral Terri
tory  The Brink of a Second War. — The English Fleet. — Adrianople. —Help
lessness of the Population. — Spirit of Brigandage and Vendetta. — Details of
the Evacuation of the City. — Particulars of the Negotiations. — Life in
Adrianople. — Habits and Feelings of the Russian Soldiers. — Ill-treatment of
English Surgeons by Captain Baranoffsky. — Investigation ordered by tbe
Grand Duke. — The Fortifications of Adrianople. — Affairs in Constantinople. —
Telegraphic Communication with Europe interrupted. — No News from
Europe. — Russians at Rodosto. — Action of Greece. — Attitude of Austria. —
Office of Grand Vizier abolished. — Achmet Vevyk Pacha appointed First
Member. — Alarming Number of Armed Irregular Troops in the City. — Street
Scenes. — The Stamboulee and the Old-fashioned Turk. — Mr. Palgrave's
Theory. — The Gipsy Element. — The Refugees. — Open Sale of Plunder. — The
Massacres at Viza and in its Neighbourhood. — Terrible Details. — Entry of
the British Fleet into the Straits and Return to Besika Bay. — Russian
Generals in Constantinople. — Turkish Ill-feeling towards England. — Further
Scenes in the City. — Englishmen robbed by Pomaks. — The Terms of the
Treaty.- — The Indemnity. — Dismissal of the Chamber of Deputies. — The
Greeks. — Their Claims to Consideration. — Affairs at Gallipoli. — The Defences
of the Isthmus. — Faith of the Turks in British Intervention. — Zabet Pacha. —
The Russians at Rodosto. — Dearness of Provisions. — Distribution of Bread. —
Surrender of Rustchuk to General Todleben. — Condition of the Town. —
Departure of General Todleben for Russia.
Since the faU of Plevna the necessity, under which the
Turkish Government laboured, of making peace had become to
dispassionate observers of the situation more and more evident.
The rapid and triumphant advance of General Gourko, the suc
cessful passage of the Trajan and Shipka Passes by the Russian
forces, and the defeat and capture of great part of Suleiman
Pacha's army at length convinced the most fanatical among

488 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the war party in Constantinople that resistance no longer offered
any hope of success. In the latter part of December the Turkish
authorities had applied to the English Cabinet to " convey
overtures of peace " to the Russian Government. This step,
however, produced no result except a suggestion that the
Turks, if desirous of peace, should send to the headquarters
of the Grand Duke Nicholas negotiators having power to
treat on behalf of Turkey. The arrival of Server Pacha
and rNaanyk Pacha, who were charged with that mission, at
Kezanlik, and the arrangement of the armistice, have already
been referred to. Almost simultaneously with their arrival
Adrianople was abandoned, and that city, with an immense
amount of war material and 200 heavy guns, fell, as aHeady
described, into the hands of General Skobeleff's troops without
the loss of a man — Suleiman Pacha and his shattered army,
hotly pursued by General Gourko, being, after severe engage
ments, driven into the Rhodope mountains, whence a remnant
made their way to the sea, and subsequently embarked for Con
stantinople. The military and political events of this period, and the
effect produced on public opinion in England by the delay
and secrecy of the negotiators, and by the continued advance
of the Russian troops, will be found fully described in the
correspondence included in the present chapter : —
: : Syra, February 5th. — A Government notice has been issued
requiring the exclusive use of the European telegraph for
despatches.
The anxiety during the last three days has been intense to learn
whether the armistice and the conditions of peace had been
accepted. There was an announcement in the journals, even
on Saturday, of the most positive kind that peace had aHeady
been signed. It was not until Tuesday that it became known
that nothing whatever had been heard of the delegates.
Complete instiuctions were only sent on the 24th. The
telegraph was interrupted, and there was no news until

ANXIETY FOR PEACE. 489
yesterday. Everybody was waiting with increasing anxiety
for news. It was reported that the Russians were advancing
on all sides. A long council was held on Wednesday, and the
Sultan decided to send two aides-de-camp, under flags of
truce, conveying a renewal of the orders to the Delegates to
sign the armistice on the conditions already submitted and
agreed upon. The Sultan the same day telegraphed person
ally and direct to the Emperor of Russia, informing him that
instructions had been sent, and urging the earliest possible
conclusion of peace. Yesterday the Emperor replied, and at
four in the afternoon the expected news arrived.
The satisfaction was universal, especially among the Turks, who
had been harassed by the double fear of the advancing
Russians and the pillage of the capital. An official announce
ment stated that the Plenipotentiaries had telegraphed that
the Protocol, which had been framed relative to the bases of
peace, and the armistice, had been signed. Owing to the
destruction of the telegraph the message was brought by
special train to Cherkessken, twenty miles beyond Chorlou.
The same train had brought the Plenipotentiaries and the
Russian officers to Adrianople. The despatches of the Pleni
potentiaries were then transmitted by messenger to Hademkoi,
whence they were telegraphed to Constantinople. Imme
diately they were received the Ministers went in a body to
the Sultan, and a council was held. It is rumoured that
certain modifications, made by the Grand Duke Nicholas in
the original propositions concerning the evacuation of Silistria,
are inserted in the propositions already forwarded. Nothing,
however, is certainly known.
Orders have been sent to both armies to cease hostilities. Most
people regard the war as entirely ended beyond the possibility
of revival, unless Austria and England intervene. Telegrams
which arrived last night lead to the impression that such
intervention would occur, but they will probably turn out,
like previous ones, to be grossly exaggerated. Certainly
neither the German nor the Austrian Embassy acknowledges
. that there is any difference of opinion between- them or
Russia.
Hundreds of Turkish houses are filled with refugees. There

490 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
is great dread of a Russian advance. Turks are receiving
protection from Europeans. I have known cases where the
former have asked that they should be protected not only
from the Russians, but the Circassians and other rabble now
crowding the streets, mosques, and other buildings. It is an
enormous relief to all that Constantinople is not to be
besieged, the fear of internal troubles greatly exceeding that
of the Russians.
Baker Pacha arrived from GallipoH on Wednesday quite well.
After leaving a division of Suleiman's remnant of an army
near Dedogach, he placed troops in position at Gallipoli.
Mehemet Ali has been appointed Commandant at Constan-,
tinople. It is believed that he will make attempts to disarm
the Circassians, who are stiU pouring in with plunder from
Roumelia, creating great alarm.
In the Turkish Chamber, the Greek members for Mytelene and
Smyrna called attention to the massacre of the population
of a Christian village near Bourgas, and presented official
depositions stating the facts. The village was called Statho-
pulo. During the panic caused by the Circassians and Bashi-
Bazouks the Governor of Bourgas confided the care of
Stathopulo to an Albanian detachment of regular troops.
When the Albanians were thus constituted the guardians of
the village, they demanded a ransom of two thousand pounds
from the Greek inhabitants. It being impossible to pay, the
villagers sent messengers to the Governor of Bourgas. When
the Albanians heard this they became furious, and began the
attack. Then commenced, says the Mytelene deputy, sup
porting himself by official documents, the suffering, or rather
the martyrdom, of the unfortunate population. The troops
pursued the inhabitants with firearms and yataghans, and the
terrified people took refuge in the church. The Albanians \
besieged the building for three days, during which they
constantly fired upon the occupants. Only 200 out of 800
succeeded in escaping. The rest were crueUy massacred.
The women Were dishonoured. Even little girls of ten were
not spared. The Chamber decided that urgent measures
should be adopted. The information given in Constantinople
by the refugees from Rodosto and Bourgas has had an

KADIKOI. 491
excellent effect in bringing the truth to light respecting the
doings of the Bashi-Bazouks, Albanians, and Circassians.

It wUl be remembered that Mukhtar Pacha was recalled from
Armenia shortly before the date of the following letter, in order
to take the command of the defences of Constantinople: —
t Kadikoi, Headquarters of Mukhtar Pacha, February 7th. — I
arrived here last night with Count Keller, General Skobeleff's
chief of staff, who came in with a flag of truce to arrange
the Lines of demarcation and the neutral ground between the
two armies during the armistice. General Skobeleff's head
quarters wUl be at Tchataldja until the signature of peace.
His cavalry arrived there yesterday, and he himself will
arrive there to-day with the head of his infantry column.
General Gourko's advance guard will arrive in Silivri to
day, on the coast of the Sea of Marmora, and he himself is
at Rodosto now. It is probable his headquarters will be at
Silivri, and that the Grand Duke's headquarters will be at
Rodosto.
There has been some difficulty in getting the Turks to evacuate
the ground stipulated in the Protocol, and although it was
agreed that they should evacuate all their positions by
February 6th, they have not done so yet. It was to see if
they meant to do so or not, as well as to arrange the lines of
demarcation, that Count Keller came here — in fact, Mukhtar
Pacha had not untU a late hour last night received any in
formation about the terms of the armistice from Constan
tinople, and thought the two armies were simply to remain
where they were at the moment the armistice was signed, and
he was surprised to find the Russian troops continually
advancing.
When General Strukoff, of Skobeleff's cavalry, arrived the day
before yesterday at Silivri, he found the Turks still there,
and they at first refused to leave the place, as they had no
orders to that effect. It was not till he brought up a battery
and threatened to fire on them that they finally consented to
leave. It was stipulated in • the Protocol that the Russian

492 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
lines should be from Bujuk Tcheknejeh, on the Sea of
Marmora, along the right bank of the Kara Su River to the
Lake of Derkos, on the Black Sea ; and the Turkish line
from Kujuk Tcheknejeh, on the Sea of Marmora, to the
village of Ak Bunar, on the Black Sea, leaving a space of
about seven miles between the Hnes as neutral ground.
The village of Derkos is on neutral ground, as is the whole
Turkish line of defence, and the fortifications of Bujuk
Tcheknejeh. The Turks really abandon their last line of
defence, and leave Constantinople at the mercy of the Russian
line of Kujuk Tcheknejeh, not fortified, and they are not
allowed to work on them by the terms of the armistice.
In consenting to this arrangement Server and Namyk Pachas
must either have been completely panic-stricken, thinking
that the only way to keep the Russians from Constantinople
was as thus to throw themselves on the generosity of the
Grand Duke, or else, having abandoned all hope, they wished
to give the Russians a proof of their sincerity in thus need
lessly abandoning theH last line of defence. The fact is, the
Russians could not have attacked these lines for two weeks
yet, as they would not have had up enough infantry to do- so,
and the positions are the most formidable I have ever seen.
The valley of Kara Su, far above Tchataldja, is nothing but a
marsh, crossed by one or two causeways, over which no troops
can pass for two months yet, and it is further shortened by
the Lake of Derkos. The possible line of attack cannot now
be over seven or eight miles long, not more than a third of
the length of Osman's lines at Plevna, and Mukhtar must
have thirty or forty thousand men, good, bad, and indifferent.
It seems to me the Turks might have held this line at any
hazard, and the Russians could not have insisted on its
evacuation for the reason that they could not be ready to
attack for two weeks. In their possession this line would
have put the Turks on a much better footing for the peace
negotiations. However, they have abandoned all idea of
holding it, and Mukhtar received last night orders to abandon
it. He has only asked for a delay of three days to remove
his heavy artillery and stores, which, over the roads as they
now are, is almost impossible.

TCHATALDJA. 493
f Headquarters of General Skobeleff, Tchataldja, February
9th. — We have at last come to a halt here, after a march that
for rapidity and daring has rarely been equalled. General
Skobeleff, after the fight of Shenova, near Shipka, where he
compelled Wessel Pacha to surrender his whole army, left
Kezanlik on January 15th, and his advanced guard reached
here on February 5th, having made the distance, 275 miles,
in twenty days. He performed the distance from Kezanlik
to Semenli Junction, on the PhiHppopolis and Yamboli Rail
ways, fifty-five miles, in forty hours, and from Kezanlik to
Adrianople, 100 miles, in four days. When we compare the
rapid marching of Skobeleff and Gourko during this period
of the campaign, fighting through their enemy's country, half
devastated by flying Turks, with the slow, heavy movements
of the army across Roumania, a friendly country, in the
beginning of the war, one can hardly believe it is the same
army.
Skobeleff's march from Adrianople here has been almost as
quick as from Kezanlik. The troops marched along the line
of railway without baggage and artillery, which are coming
on by rail They lived partly on the supplies found in the
country, and prepared by Strukoff, and partly on provisions
brought from Adrianople by rail. At Lule Burgas Skobeleff
set all the bakeries going, and found they could produce
12,000 loaves per day, so that he was enabled to furnish his
troops with fresh bread every other day. No fighting
occurred except a smart cavalry skirmish at the station of
Tchorlou, where the Russian advance overtook the Turkish
rear guard.
The rapidity of movement was not in the least relaxed, even
after the signature of the armistice. Although the Turkish
general had received no orders from Constantinople, and
had therefore transmitted no orders to his troops to evac
uate the territory, as agreed upon in the armistice, the
Russians pushed forward and drove the Turks out by threats
and force everywhere up to the line of demarcation. At
Silivri, Strukoff had, as I informed you, to bring up a
battery and to threaten to fire before the Turkish commander
would consent to move, and then he did so only after putting

494 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in ' a protest against what he called a violation of the
armistice.
The fact is, the Turks had already violated the armistice in
not fulfilling the conditions agreed upon. The neutral ground
is not yet evacuated by them, although Mukhtar Pacha has
promised that it shall be by the 10th ; Skobeleff having in
formally granted that delay, while reserving to himself the
right to watch the proceedings step by step, and see that they
are really carried out. He has informed Mukhtar that unless
he sees that the evacuation is taking place, he will consider
himself authorized by this continued violation of the armis
tice to occupy the neutral ground, and seize whatever war
material, cannon, &c, he may find there. As Skobeleff has
not yet enough troops up to attack these formidable positions,
this threat is what the Americans call a game of bluff. The
Grand Duke considers it of the greatest importance to have
these positions evacuated at once, for reasons which I will
explain, and Skobeleff is trying to get it done by means of
threats and bluster in lieu of force, which he has not yet got
at his disposal.
It is a somewhat amusing and exciting game, and we are look-
ing forward to the result with anxiety. The Turks assure
the Russians they have 85,000 men behind these lines. The
Russians assure the Turks that they have 100,000 ready to
attack upon a moment's notice, and are only restrained from
doing so by consideration for them. As by the time this is
published the matter wUl be decided one way or other, this
account of the situation here can do no harm. From what I
saw of Mukhtar Pacha, however, I believe he was acting in
good faith, and that he actually gave orders for the evacuation
the night we were at Kadikoi, where he says for the first time
he received notice from his Government. Why he did not
receive orders sooner I am unable to say, unless it be on the
ground that this is the usual manner of proceeding with the
Turks, or else that there was hesitation in Constantinople in
accepting the terms agreed upon by Server Pacha.
If it be asked why the Russians are so anxious to have these
lines evacuated now that peace is imminent, the answer is
simple. Peace is not certain untU it is signed. In the mean-

SERVER PACHA S VIEWS. 495
time they have the possibility of English interference con
tinually before theH eyes, an event which a discussion of the
: conditions of peace might still bring about. Now with the
' lines of Bujuk Tcheknejeh in their possession, as they vir
tually will be H the Turks evacuate them, Constantinople
is practically as much in their hands as H there were sentinels
at the doors of St. Sofia.
The railway signal posts mark seventy kilometres from Stamboul.
The distance by road is fifty-five, as the railway is very
crooked. In case of a declaration of war by England, Skobe
leff, who has now four divisions, can throw the whole force on
to the heights behind Constantinople in forty-eight hours ; for
it might be safely said that the Turks, having given such a
proof of their desire for peace as the abandonment of this
line of defence, may be counted upon to offer no further
resistance to the Russians, even should England declare war in
theH favour. I believe Server Pacha was really in earnest when
he said the other day that in future Turkey would be the ally
of Russia. His reasoning is simple and logical. Even though
Lord Beaconsfield meant to interfere on behalf of Turkey, as
undoubtedly Server believed, it is now too late to save Turkey
by that means. Whatever the result of that interference,
whether favourable or unfavourable to the Russian arms, the
Ottoman EmpHe would perish in the struggle, whereas, by
making peace with Russia now, something can be saved from
the wreck. Russia is evidently not yet prepared for the
destruction of the Ottoman Empire, and if the Porte can be
brought completely under Russian influence, and can be
turned into a faithful ally, there is no reason why what will
remain of the Empire after this war should perish at all,
protected as it will be by Russia. This is Server Pacha's line
of reasoning, and it is not without logic. This is why he has
given such a proof of his sincerity to Russia by giving up
the last line of defence, thus putting Turkey beyond the
possibility of further resistance, even though England should
now declare war against Russia.
Tchataldja is a pretty prosperous little village, with many fine,
even elegant, houses. It is half Turkish, haH Greek, but the
Turkish population has nearly all fled. Upon the arrival of

496 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Count Keller with a flag of truce, the Greek Bishop called,,.
upon him, and in presence of two Turkish officers said he
prayed for the health of the Emperor Alexander, and for the !
officers and soldiers of the army who had come to deliver the
country from its oppressors. As according to the bases of
peace proposed by Russia this part of the EmpHe remains to
Turkey, I fear the poor Bishop will find the country rather
hot for him after peace is made and the Russians go away.
There has been snow here for the last three or four nights, but
it melts during the day. The sun is shining brightly, but the
roads are in an impassable condition, and they will probably
remain so for some time. The headquarters of the Grand
Duke are, it is said, to be removed to Silivri, on the Sea of
Marmora, instead of Rodosto. Silivri is nearer Constan
tinople. Count Keller and Thair Bey, accompanied by
Lieutenant Green, of the American army, started yesterday
to go round the lines of demarcation on both sides.
t Tchataldja, February 11th. — The evacuation of the neutral
territory is completed. All Mukhtar's army has retired
behind the lines of Bujuk Tcheknejeh, but the heavy
artillery still remains in position, and a good deal of war
material is still on neutral ground, because the Turks cannot
remove it. Skobeleff has, I believe, told Mukhtar to at least
remove the guns from their platforms. Constantinople may
be virtually considered in the hands of the Russians, just as
much as if they were already in the place. They have the
self-restraint not to enter, that is all. Skobeleff, whUe going
over tbe lines of delimitation the other day, was near enough
to see the place. He and the whole of his staff, with the
escort, sat on their horses and gazed on the capital for some
minutes. There was some disappointment expressed that
they should not have been allowed to march in, but all are
in general very glad the war is over.
It would seem that we were on the very brink of a second
war without knowing it. I know as a fact that before the
armistice was signed Russia had decided that the English
fleet coming to the Bosphorus should be the signal for the
Rnssain army to march in, and that if any English troops

NEWS OF THE ARMISTICE. 497
were found anywhere in the Turkish positions, to attack them.
It was further decided to occupy GallipoH, and every dis
position was taken for that purpose. Now it turned out that
the English fleet actually had orders to go to the Bosphorus
at that very moment. Had the order not been countermanded
the result would certainly have been a collision between the
two forces, and a war. It was a close shave.
iSkobeleff only received news of the armistice at Tchorlou, from
which point the Sea of Marmora is visible. Everybody is
glad that it has ended so ; and now that the first disappoint
ment is over, there is no desire expressed to go to Constan
tinople at all. As soon as peace is signed Skobeleff marches
back to Adrianople.
t Tchataldja, February 12th. — We have just had another scare-
News was received here that the English fleet was on its way
to the Bosphorus. Skobeleff instantly informed the head
quarters, and had orders for concentrating his troops at a
point where they could strike at a moment's notice in case
orders were received to that effect. The sky was threatening
for a short time. Then the news came that the Turks had
refused to let the fleet pass, and that it was waiting orders at
the mouth of the Dardanelles. This news raised a laugh, but
the position is still regarded as threatening. Skobeleff's
troops will be to-morrow at points that will enable them to
cross the line and occupy the Turkish positions in the neutral
ground in two hours. He can put two divisions on the high
ground just behind Constantinople in thirty-six hours. I
may remark that a division of the Guards has been given to
him, and that he has now three divisions and two brigades of
sharpshooters under his command, really four divisions in all,
besides artillery and cavalry.
pAs our news is nearly twenty-four hours old, it is likely the
order for sending the fleet has once more been countermanded,
otherwise we should have heard of its arrival by this time.
The coming of the fleet to the Bosphorus would probably
not now be regarded by Russia as a signal for war as it would
have been before the armistice, but it would be a very serious
matter, nevertheless. It is too late for the war party now to
VOL. II. K K

498 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
talk of not believing the Emperor's promises regarding Con
stantinople, and urging this as a reason for sending the fleet.
Russia virtually has Constantinople. If the Emperor refuses
to withdraw his troops when peace is signed, it will be time
enough to send the fleet and go to war. Now such a step
would be folly, as it would give Russia a pretext for entering
Constantinople, and, in that case, the Turks would to all
present appearances fight, H they fought at all, on the side of
Russia. The Turks now swear by the Russians.

In the subjoined letters from the correspondent who accom. .
panied General Gourko's expedition we return to Adrian
ople : —
+ Adrianople, February 9th. — Any one who has crossed the
Channel, and has felt the ugly motion of the steamer long after
landing, can appreciate the sensations caused by the sudden
and almost unexpected pause in the turmoU and action of the
war. The complex machinery of the campaign has come to
a standstill, the noise and tumult have ceased, the life of con
tinual excitement, insecurity, and restlessness has suddenly
changed to an emotionless existence. Sure of a roof to
shelter us, sure of food for ourselves and horses, no longer
forced to struggle with cold or wet, free from the majority of
the petty cares of campaigning, Hfe has become tame and
commonplace. But the reaction, depressing as it is, does
not hold uninterrupted sway, for there are hours when the
surge and swell of the war come back to one in all their
actual force and vigour. There are moments when the dis
tant rumble of wheels is as inspiriting as the roar of cannon;
when the banging of a door or the sound of a hammer is in
toxicating like the first irregular rattle of musketry that
precedes a fight. So, after the whirl and crash and roar have
ended, the echoes still linger in the air, and the pulses quicken
at the involuntary reminiscences of the exhilaration of the
past eight months spent in active warfare.
I will not say that even the depression of the sudden reaction is
altogether disagreeable, for it carries with it a corresponding

misery of the refugees. 499
balm, the proof that the terrible tragedy is at last ended.
Only those who, as spectators, have so identified themselves
with the drama as to fully appreciate the character of the
action, can now conceive the strength of the sense of relief
that possesses every actor, as the curtain falls on the last of
the terrible scenes of the war. It is not so much the inci
dents of battle, the hardships of the soldiers in the cold, or
the wholesale destruction of property which have made the
experience of the past month exceedingly exhausting to the
nervous force ; but it is rather the extreme misery and
wretchedness of the thousands of non-combatants that have
dady met our eyes since we crossed the Balkans and ap
proached Sofia.
The most sensitive nature gets hardened to the scenes of a
battle-field. Though one may at first regret that a peasant's
house should burn, one soon warms himself at the flames,
without a thought of the owner ; but the sufferings of the
innocent and helpless appeal to human sympathy with a force
which time and experience do not entirely neutralize, and one
finds himseH turning with a sick heart from freezing and
starving women and children, while his horse tramples under
foot unnoticed the shapeless body of a soldier. I have seen
the dragoons, whose sabres were still coloured with Turkish
blood, dismount and share their rations with half -famished
fugitives; and infantrymen, who with great difficulty had
made a fire to dry their feet, yield it to the shivering re
fugees, and with touching tenderness bring the exhausted
Turkish women to the fire and give them food and drink. It
is the sense of utter helplessness in the presence of all this
suffering, the certainty that the majority of these innocent
people will perish for the lack of the commonest necessities
of existence, the consciousness that this useless waste of
human Hfe might have been easily prevented, that is ex
hausting to the last degree ; and I remember nothing of the
whole war so inhuman, so fiendish, as the tragedy on the road
between Philippopolis and Hermanli, of which we were in
part spectators.
In my despatch sent a few days ago I mentioned the fact that
we met on the road perhaps 10,000 refugees returning to
K K 2

500 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
their homes, and spoke also of the attack of the Bulgarians
on a train of these unfortunates almost under the eyes of
General Gourko. News has now reached us that hundreds
of these refugees have been despoiled, and many have been
killed or have died on the road before reaching Philippopolis.
Although there is no official proof of the truth of this state
ment, this is no argument against the correctness of the
report, because there is no high official who to my knowledge
would interest himself enough to take pains to inquHe into
the matter. Then, too, the testimony of one of my couriers,
who has just come in from Sistova vid Philippopolis, con
firms part of the rumour, for he says that there was a great
deal of plundering along the highway in the vicinity of the
latter town. From what I saw myseH, it appeared to me
almost certain that these fugitives would never reach their
homes.
When the Bulgarians began plundering them in the presence of
part of General Gourko's staff it was only with the greatest
difficulty that the brigands were dispersed by the officers and
soldiers, who attempted to protect the Turks, and every one
knew that when we were out of sight the game would begin
anew. The villagers were like madmen ; the small children
caught the contagious spirit, and set upon the Turkish chil
dren and puUed the bundles away from them ; old hags
clawed at the veUed women with all the ferocity of witches,
and great hearty men mobbed helpless fugitives, and took
from them theH last covering, their only food. When we
charged among them with the whip they sullenly retired,
appearing again on the scene at a new point, and even the
strong arm of military authority, wielded without system and
spasmodically, was insufficient to prevent eff ectuaUy the plun
der. The thought came to me at the time that if these people
have been so oppressed they have learned arrogance and self-
assertion with astonishing readiness ; and this in the presence
of superior physical force and indisputable authority.
It is clear that it was the duty of the general officer who sent
these fugitives back to their villages to provide a proper
escort to protect them on their journey. This has not, to my
knowledge, been done in a single case, and General Kartzoff,

BRIGANDAGE and vendetta. 501
who commanded the detachment in advance of the main body
of General Gourko's troops, sent the immense waggon trains
of refugees to the rear, without any visible escort to ensure
their safe conduct through a district where it was well known
existed a strong feeling of hostility between the two races.
To begin with, it was a colossal mistake on the part of the
Turks to leave such a small escort with the great bivouac of
refugees ; they should have either given them no escort at all
or else a sufficient body of troops to protect them or to cover
their retreat. As it was, there was just enough infantry to
begin the fight and to excite the people to defend themselves.
It is difficult to say which of the two divisions of that great
multitude of peasants are better off — those who fled into the
mountains, leaving all their property behind' them, or those
who fell into the hands of the Russians, and were sent back
to their villages. It seems quite probable ¦ that complete
extermination will be the fate of these refugees, and be
tween exposure, famine, and the Bulgarians they have little
hope.
Perhaps it is too mueh to expect of the Russians to secure
good order in the hundreds of villages where Turks and
Bulgarians live as neighbours ; but it seems a little incon
sistent, to put it very mildly, that the result of a war made
ostensibly to prevent massacres should be to excite these
wholesale slaughters, and that the Russian military Govern
ment should be less effective than the lax and irregular
system which it has superseded. Of course the Turkish
peasants are now in great fear of the Bulgarians, for the
latter are all armed, many of them with weapons taken by
the Russians from the Turks and given to the Bulgarians,
and the former are without means of defence. The spirit of
brigandage and vendetta that is excited in the Bulgarians is
proved by what I have described along the Philippopolis-Her-
manli road. They have even gone so far as to exchange shots
with a force of Russian dragoons, in a village in this neighbour
hood, and several of them were killed. The lessons they have
learnt in the war have not benefited the 01 much. It is plain
to see that the large and constantly increasing corps of
vengeurs have found work enough for their yataghans.

502 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
The occupation of Adrianople was by no means a dramatic finale
of the trans-Balkan campaign. When the Turks evacuated
the city on the 18th ultimo the troops and most of the
munitions were sent to Constantinople, and the Government
6f the city was left in the hands of the consuls — namely,
Messrs. J. E. Blunt, her Majesty's Consul ; Ghennadil, Consul
for Greece; Saxe, for the Austro-Hungarian EmpHe; and
Flech, for France. At the suggestion of Mr. Blunt, the
Turkish authorities had wisely ordered away aU the irregular
troops before the evacuation, and they left for the protection
for the consuls and for the good order of the town a detach
ment of seventy-two regular soldiers with several officers
On the 19th, Fasso Effendi was appointed by telegraph gover.
nor of the town ad interim, and in this capacity he pre
sented himseH with the consular body and the Greek arch
bishop to General Stroukoff, who on the 20th occupied a
village very near the city. The General, however, refused to
recognize any municipal authority, saying there was no longer
any Sultan or any Governor, and announced to the consuls
that he would appoint a committee of safety, to be composed
' of one member of every race or sect in the town, saying that he
should hold each individual member of committee responsible
for the acts of the portion of the inhabitants he represented,
and finishing his declaration of the plan proposed for the
government of the town in somewhat these words : — " This,
gentlemen, I conceive to be the only means of insuring good
order in the city, because the Armenians hate the Germans,
the Germans the French, the French the Italians, the Italians
the Greeks, the Greeks the Bulgarians, and the Bulgarians
— they hate everybody."
This committee was accordingly appointed, and a native pohce
force relieved the patrol organized by the consuls, and per
sonally conducted by them during the interim between the
departure of the Turks and the arrival of the Russians.
General Skobeleff came by rail on the 21st, General Gourko
four days later, and the Grand Duke on the 26th. The
triumphal entry of the Commander-in-Chief was not a
remarkably brilliant spectacle, nor was there noticeable
enthusiasm in the crowds that assembled on the way ; this

RENEWED HOPES OF PEACE. 503
was partly due, doubtless, to the rain which fell heavily at
the time, and partly to the nature of the people, who are not
disposed to any visible expression of emotion.
With the occupation of Adrianople the rapid forward move
ment did not cease, and Skobeleff's troops were on the road
again after a pause of a day or two, forming the central
column of the advance towards Constantinople. General
Gourko's infantry had come in with empty haversacks ;
marching from twenty to forty-five kUometres a day, they
had long since left far behind the provision trains, and
had been living for some days as only a Russian soldier knows
how to live. Bread is to them a necessity, and how they have
managed to eke out six days of two-thHds regular ration
during ten days of marching and fighting, as they did between
Sofia and Phdippopolis, is a problem I have not yet been able
to solve. Between PhiHppopolis and Adrianople the bread
ration was short in a Hke proportion, but the soldiers managed
to live.
Of course, General Gourko could not keep on any further with
out resting his men and awaiting the transport trains, so his
advance vid Lule Burgas to Rodosto was postponed until the
first day of February, and the peace negotiations having
fallen through, I expected to bask in warm sunlight on the
shores of the Sea of Marmora, and after two months of cold
and snow should have cried "Thalassa, Thalassa," with all
the ardour of Xenophon's soldiers, when the delightful
blue horizon line should have met my eye. But during the
forenoon of January 31st there were vague rumours that the
preliminaries of peace were to be signed that afternoon, and
all the diplomats keeping a discreet silence on the subject, no
thing further was made public until about dark in the evening
a mass was celebrated in the Konak, where the Grand Duke
has his headquarters, and the bands played, and a tide wave
of joyous cheering spread all over the city. To say that every
body, from commanders to cooks, was heartily delighted by
this proof that peace was imminent, is to give the faintest
possible idea of the general joy that prevailed. It was a
most welcome surprise, and a complete surprise, for the
Pachas had sent a messenger to Constantinople, asking for

504 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
new instructions, more than a week before, and no answer had
been received.
The Grand Duke insisted that they should give their final de
cision about the propositions for a basis of peace on the 31st, ,
and on the very morning of the day the same aide-de-camp
of Suleiman Pacha who came to General Gourko at Ichtiman
with the news of an armistice, Zeki Bey, appeared, bringing a
message from the Sublime Porte asking why the movements
had not ceased, and declaring that the document consenting
to the conditions had been sent a week before. The interrup
tion of the communications was the reason why the message
had not reached headquarters before this, a delay which
changed materially the aspect of the affairs in general, and
gave opportunity for the occupation of considerable terri
tory.
However, the basis of peace was signed without further hesita
tion, painful as it was for the Pachas to put their names to
a demand which meant to them the death of Turkey. The
scene was extremely touching when the venerable Namyk
Pacha could not refrain from shedding tears at the thought
of the future of the country he loved so much, and had served
so weH On the evening of the 6th the Pachas, who had
received a telegram from Constantinople informing them that
their mission was a special one, and was now finished, took
the train for that city, and no news has since been received
from them.
The Russian grey uniform does not lend itseH easUy to the
picturesque, and in Oriental surroundings, side by side with
the richly-coloured Turkish costumes, cannot be said to har
monize with the spirit of the scene. Adrianople has probably
never had in her entire history such crowded streets. The
main thoroughfare is almost impassable at times. Hundreds
of soldiers buying shirts, officers chaffering for relics and-
souvenirs, and crowds of Bulgarians from the neighbouring
villages watching for bargains, make up a busy crowd, in
which a wonderful trade in all small articles is carried on by
scores of enterprising natives. The hotels and restaurants
are all crowded to overflowing, every empty house has been
filled with soldiers, and officers have been billeted about pro-

THE RUSSIAN SOLDIER. 505
miscuously. Notwithstanding the thousands of soldiers in
the streets, the native element predominates so strongly
everywhere as to give a characteristic tone to the scenes of
unique picturesqueness and exceptional interest that one sees
at every turn. Such gorgeous masses of blazing hues are
food and drink after the bleak and barren landscapes of the
Balkans in their winter dress, and the eyes feed on the rich
tones with eagerness and satisfaction, after long abstinence
from any luxury of colour.
It seemed strange enough at first to see Turkish soldiers — the
Consular guard — with arms in hand, circulating freely among
the Russians, but it has long since got to be such a common
sight as to cease to attract attention. Day by day scores of
Turkish stragglers come in, ragged and dirty, but easily
recognizable as soldiers, and now hundreds of them are met
in the streets. Unarmed, they found it dangerous to stay in
the villages where they had taken refuge, and so they have
come into Adrianople. Such is indeed their story. What
language the Russian and Turkish soldiers use in conver
sation is known only to them, for it is quite unintelligible
to any one else; but they manage to hold lively chats on
amusing subjects, and fraternize in a very jolly manner. The
Russian soldier is, first of all, a good-natured fellow, and he
looks upon Turks and Frenchmen as a kind of comical
animals. Why this is so, no one can say ; and especially it is
hard to see why the Frenchmen should be particularly
amusing to him, but anything that is French he considers
funny ; and the Turks, their manners, dress, and faces, all
excite his mirth. The Englishman and German he cannot
endure — possibly because they appear too serious to him,
and he has an unmistakable, ingrained dislike for both those
nations. Of course, I speak only of the men in the ranks, as
one meets them everywhere, and overhears their conversation.
Now they are, of course, in high spirits, because they have
made themselves very little at home in Bulgaria, and are
glad to return to their steppes again. From my own obser
vation, I am convinced that they fraternize with the Turks
much more than with the Bulgarians.
In the great bazaar the mixture of races is curious enough

506 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
every variety of type of man, from the coal-black Nubian to
the mild-eyed blonde Russian, shoulder one another good-
naturedly there. Cossacks handle the rich draperies and haggle
about the price of calico shirts ; the infantrymen, for the first
time in their lives let loose in such a museum of wonderful
things, walk about at first quite dazed, and then join in the
lively shirt trade with the rest ; while the officers, every
where on the look-out for relics and interesting souvenirs, pay
out their shining pol-imperials with a recklessness that has
spoiled the market for any other purchasers. Almost every
one buys a Turkish woman's costume, most indulge in a speci
men or two of Oriental rugs, and for whatever leaves the
shelves of the Spanish Jews a good round sum is paid. As
for the simplest and most uninteresting reHcs of the war
like ordinary pistols and muskets, they bring full market
prices. A Winchester repeating rifle easily commands seven
napoleons. These bright new gold pieces will open almost
any door ; even the mosque of Sultan Selim has been illumi
nated and a service conducted to satisfy the curiosity of the
officers.
I thought it was rather an undignified proceeding on the part
of the Turks to go through their service of chanting and
prayer with an audience of a thousand Muscovites, and many
of the officers present shared my opinion. The mosques have
not been in any way desecrated, unless the entrance of thou
sands of unbelievers may be called desecration. Whatever
orders the sentries at the door of Sultan Selim may have
received they certainly execute their duty most capriciously.
A few Turks coming in at the door the other day, and
observing several Russian officers walking about with their
boots on, did not stop to take off their shoes, as the custom
is, whereupon the sentry followed them into the church,
ordered them back, and obliged them to take off the
muddy foot-gear. They looked at the soldier as H to say —
" I wonder if this fellow is going to oblige us to pray too,"
and half pleased, half angry, they obeyed the guard and
went to their worship.
Around the mosque in the great enclosure gather hundreds of
refugees, who bivouac there while on their way through the

ENGLISH PRISONERS. 507
city to their villages. Together with the soldiers they flock
to the fountains to bring water, and never so much as a
harsh' word have I heard pass between the Turks and the
' Russians. On the contrary, the soldiers very often assist
the refugees in various ways. Rarely is a hand held out for
charity that does not receive some coin, and I have seen the
soldiers bring water quite gallantly for the Turkish women.
However trifling these acts may seem as indications of the
spirit-of the soldier, they are to me additional proof that the
Russians will go home almost to a man with an exaggerated
idea of the depravity of the Bulgarian and a correspondingly
elevated opinion of the good qualities of the Turks.
In my letter from Sofia I spoke of the English doctors whom I
found at Strigli in company with Colonel Charles Baker, and
Mr. Bell, of .the Illustrated London News. I was confident at
the time that every one of these men would receive the best
of treatment from the Russians ; first, from what I knew
had been done in similar cases, and then because I heard
General Gourko say that the doctors and the correspondent
were not prisoners of war in any sense, and he gave orders
that they should be given liberty of action. It was with no
little surprise that I met part of that company here in
Adrianople lately, Drs. Armand Leslie, Kirkpatrick, and
NevUl, and Mr. Bell. They came in here by train on the 3rd
inst. from Hermanli, whither they had been marched from
Strigli vid Plevna, Loftcha, Selvi, Gabrova, and Kezanlik, a
journey of three weeks in severe weather, twice crossing the
Balkans on foot, always treated as common prisoners of war.
Captain Baranoffsky, who had charge of them at Strigli,
gave them into the hands of a corporal's guard, and they
were marched away to the headquarters, which were sup
posed to be at Bogot. Every night they were shut up in a
miserable prison, every day they marched on the road, not
being allowed to mount their horses. For the first two weeks
• something like two roubles apiece were given them to live
on, and as they had Httle money of their own, and could not
have found food to buy if they had had plenty of gold, they
were obliged to put up with bread and water.
The details of the tedious march will doubtless be made public

508 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
by one of the actors in the drama. That it was most inex'-
cusable and disgraceful treatment of English subjects who,
according to all laws of war, were not prisoners, there is not a
question. The first officer on the road who showed them any
consideration was the commandant at Kezanlik. I am very
sorry that I have not his name. He gave them two napo
leons apiece, I believe, and in other ways showed his appre
ciation of their position.
Arrived here, they were immediately, on the representation of
Mr. Blunt, set at liberty and went to Constantinople by the
first train. The Grand Duke not only ordered General Stein,
the commandant at Adrianople, to express the regrets of the
Commander-in-Chief that there had been such a misunder
standing, but to further prove his sincerity has ordered a
strict investigation of the conduct of Captain Baranoffsky.
As the Englishmen are gone, and have only left copies of
their diaries with Mr. Blunt, to be sent in with their formal
complaint, there is very little likelihood that the investiga
tion will result in anything. The importance of the ques
tions under present consideration naturaUy swamp the com
plaints of private individuals who have had the misfortune
to suffer for the vicious ignorance of a single Russian officer.
The fortifications of Adrianople are well worth the study of
any military engineer, and the Russians may here take a very
good lesson in the art. The forts are very large, and all
constructed on the same principle, namely, a high, central
" cavalry," often with two surrounding lines of parapets
successively lower, so that there are actually three lines of
artillery, one above the other. The infantry fire is similarly
arranged. The Russian system is to bury the guns in the
earth ; the Turkish, to raise them high in the air ; and the
experience of this war has proved the superiority of the
latter system. Like all the Turkish earthworks, the forts at
Adrianople are models of good construction. The great
central traverses which serve as bombproofs are here largely
built of stone and mortar, with, of course, an impenetrable
covering of soft earth, and there is very neat masonry about
the gates and the doors of the magazines. It is a curious
fact that one of the largest forts stands close beside the now

COMMUNICATION WITH EUROPE INTERRUPTED. 509
deserted, half-ruined house built and occupied by the Rus-
j sian Field-Marshal Diebitch, after his campaign in 1829.
: : Constantinople, February 6th. — To-day it is generally be
lieved that we are cut off from telegraphic communication
with Europe except by way of Bombay. For upwards of a
week it has been impossible to send a telegraphic message
except by way of Alexandria. That route has the two
disadvantages of being very dear and very doubtful. When
correspondents have not only to pay three francs fifteen cen
times a word, but are gravely informed that as the line
through Beyrout and Palestine is very seldom used it is
probably out of order, sending messages is an unsatisfactory
task.
Bad, however, as telegraphic communication by Alexandria has
been during the last week, it will be very considerably better
than communication by Bombay. For three days we have
received no telegrams from Europe, and our anxiety for news
may easily be imagined. The Eastern Question for people in
England is no doubt of great interest, but for the people of
Constantinople is one of vital interest. We know that an
armistice has been signed, and that certain preliminaries of
peace have been, agreed to. But we do not know whether
the armistice is for any fixed period, or whether it may not
be put an end to at any hour. We know that Greece has
advanced her troops to the frontier, and that the semi-official
Turkish paper, theVahit, says that an ultimatum has been sent
to Greece, ordering the withdrawal of these troops within the
next two days, or else Turkey will declare war. We know,
too, that the Russian troops have been gradually narrowing
the semi-cHcle around us, and have occupied Tchataldja
within gunshot of the outworks for the defence of Constan
tinople. The Turks believe, and it is commonly asserted,
though I do not know if there is trustworthy authority for
it, that the Russians have continued their advance notwith
standing the armistice. Probably it will turn out that
towards the town last named, and in other directions, the
Russians continued to advance untU news arrived of the
signature. I know of no case where the Russians have

510 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
advanced after the time when the fact of the signature had
become known. Rodosto, on the Marmora, is the only place
where the Russians have reached the sea southwards.
The master of an English tug which arrived here yesterday ;
from that port states that Prince Oldenburg with eight
hundred Uhlans arrived there on Saturday last. The account
which he gives is reassuring. When the Prince heard that
an English steamer was in the harbour he sent for the master
and treated him with great courtesy. The master says that
the town is perfectly quiet. The Turkish zaptiehs were
ordered by the Prince to act as police, each man wearing a
white badge upon his arm to show that he is a Turkish soldier
employed in the police service. The Russian soldiers were on
the best of terms with the people, and paid for whatever
they took.
The action of Greece is what is puzzling ns aU. The Greek
Minister here, M. Condonriotti, either beHeves or professes to
believe that there is no real difficulty with Greece, and there
are men of position bold enough to declare that the move
ment of the Greek troops across the frontier does not actually
mean war, but is only a preconcerted movement to satisfy the
Greek people and to induce Europe to take care of Greek
interests at the approaching Congress. Of course you in
England will learn from Athens the truth about this matter
before we do. For my part, I cannot believe in the in
sincerity of the action which Greece has taken. A most
unfortunate jealousy of the Bulgarians has made the Greeks
of Turkey unwilling to throw in their lot with the Sclavs,
and this jealousy, combined with the well-grounded fear of
the serious consequences which would result to Greece were
she to declare war against Turkey, has much more probably
been the reason why she has done nothing until now than
any understanding with Turkey.
It does not require any far-fetched reason to account for the
inactivity of Greece. The greater portion of her wealth is
at sea. It sounds absurd, but it is true that the number of
ships belonging to Greece is greater than that of any other
State excepting England. Of course, in tonnage half a
dozen European nations would take precedence ; but one has

THE ACTION OF GREECE. 511
only to pass a few days in the Archipelago to see Greek
vessels by the hundreds, and to see that in case of war they
would be rapidly swept up by a Power like Turkey, possessing
a tolerably effective fleet. Moreover, many of the towns
of Greece — like Syra, for example — lie at the mercy of a
barbarous foe, and the Ministers who have to decide the
question of war or peace for Greece cannot enter upon war
with a light heart. To Greece war must inevitably mean
very great loss and suffering ; and if the Greeks declare war,
their sympathy for their Greek brethren in enslaved Greece
must be very deep. If it be true that Greece is on the
point of declaring war, our position here would become much
more isolated than it has yet been, as there will be danger
of our maU service being interfered with. In Stamboul and
its neighbourhood there are upwards of forty thousand Greek
subjects, and it may become very difficult to avoid a collision
between them and the CHcassians and Turks now in the
capital.
While the action of Greece is one of the unknown quantities
in the problem which we have to solve, there is another
which arises from the supposed conjoint action of England
and Austria. During the last three days this has indeed been
the principal topic of conjecture. The numerous interviews
between Mr. Layard and Count Zichy are carefully noted ;
but though the notion of an understanding between these
two Powers is evidently cherished at the English Embassy,
I am in a position to affirm positively that the Austrian
Ambassador denies that there has been, here at least, any
joint action whatever. Among the Turks the idea of an
interference at this stage is, I believe, rather disliked than
otherwise. The Turk recognizes that they have been badly
beaten, and wish to make an end of the whole matter. In
the absence, therefore, of information from Europe, I am
still of opinion that if Lord Beaconsfield has determined to
run England into war, he cannot count Austria as his ally.
The Turk recognizes that the best thing they have to hope
for is that they may be allowed to sign final conditions of
peace without delay, and get rid of the danger which at
the present moment is threatening Constantinople itself.

512 ' WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
I telegraphed two days ago, by way of Alexandria, that the''
office of Grand Vizier was abolished, and that Achmet Vevyk
Pacha had been named Grand Vizier only that the office might
be done away with. . He is now named Prime Minister. It
is fair, I think, to assume that the idea of the change is that
a Premiership is more in accordance with the practice of
constitutional government than the Grand Vizierate. Mid-
hat's Constitution, however, recognizes the position of a
Grand Vizier. Still, the arbitrary act of the Sultan in
abolishing, by an Imperial Hatt, the position recognized in
the Constitution may be considered as an attempt still
further to place the country under constitutional govern
ment.
The selection of Achmet Vevyk as the First Minister has taken
every one by surprise. It is well known that he failed to
obtain a seat in the Chamber of Deputies, and the fadure
was attributed to the direct interference of the Government.
His promotion to his present high post is thought to be due
to Mr. Layard, whose friend Achmet Vevyk has been for
many years. It will be curious to see what sort of a First
Minister he will make. I have recently described him as the
most learned Turk living. He is generally reputed to be of
Greek origin, and his vivacity and intelligence confirm this
conjecture. In a country where the taking of bribes, the
want of patriotism, and a habit of sacrificing national to
personal considerations is the rule, it is to the credit of
Achmet Vevyk that he has remained a comparatively poor
man, and that he is singled out from the ring of Pachas as
an honest man. His abilities, too, are undoubtedly great.
It remains to be seen whether he will make a good Prime
Minister. Hitherto he has not been successful as an admin
istrator, and his failure is put down to inability to work
harmoniously with his colleagues, and to a general crotcheti-
ness. The most important office which he has held up to
the present time is that of Ambassador to Napoleon III.
Perhaps he may succeed better among his own people. If
he fail it will certainly not be owing to want of patriotism
or of belief in the capacity of the Turkish race.
The stream of fugitives into Constantinople stiU continues to

STREET SCENES. 513
flow, though with diminished force. Every effort which can
be made to lessen the amount of distress which prevails
among these fugitives is hardly adequate to contend with it.
The fact that the Turks themselves are seriously alarmed at
the numbers of armed Circassians, Zeibecks, and Pomacks,
who are lounging lazily about the streets, may constitute the
safety of the capital. There exists a great anxiety to ship
these warlike-looking scoundrels off to Syra, to Anatolia,
anywhere out of Constantinople. " These are the cause,"
said the member for Smyrna a day or two ago, " of all our
woes," and the remark was agreed in by nearly all the mem
bers present, and, without looking for the causa causans, may
be accepted as true.
The streets of Constantinople at the present time present an
appearance such as they can hardly have presented for many
years. The long wooden bridge which crosses the Golden
Horn is crowded with refugees and other passengers. Take
away a dozen or two Europeans, and there is hardly a man
whose costume would not create a sensation in the streets of
an English town. The first group which is sure to catch the
eye is an ordinary sight here. The place is evidently a favourite
one for cripples, and a traveller will do his best to get out of the
way of the broken and twisted arms and legs which are pushed
ostentatiously under his notice in all their hideous deformity.
Evidently these cripples are having a rich harvest from the
crowds of refugees to whom they are showing their wounds.
One wretched boy, who sways all day long backwards and
forwards howling the praises of Mahomet, has had a large
crowd around him every time I have passed him during the
last fortnight. But the crowd is, to a stranger, far more
interesting than the object of the crowd's gaze. There are
Pomacks, the mountaineer Bulgarians, who became Moslems
to save their lands, and who could tell some wonderful
stories about the murders in Bulgaria. Some of their
women were regretting last week to a friend of mine, who
was supplying them with house room, that they had to buy
vegetables in Constantinople. At home, said they, we
always got everything of that kind from our Bulgarian neigh.
hours without payment. Handsome-looking fellows many of
VOL. II, L L

514 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
these Pomacks are — tall, well-knit, and with a picturesque
'dress, consisting of a loose jacket, always more or less
embroidered, turbans about their scarlet fezes, and very
loose knickerbockers. Give them a pistol or two, and a
sword or dagger in their belts, and they are complete.
Side by side with them, along the whole length of the bridge,
are Circassians, usuaUy in long coats made of grey home
spun, with Astrakan caps, a row of cartridges, across the
chest, pistols, and probably a yataghan. There is not a man
among them who is not armed. The Circassian has a perfect
mania for possessing firearms. A good deal of the money
taken from the Greeks and Bulgarians by many of the hand
somely-made scoundrels about us has already passed into the
possession of the Stamboul dealers in revolvers. Passing
over the bridge, we shall see to a certainty a crowd round
every shop where firearms are exposed for sale.
The only men who appear to carry more arms than the Circas
sians in this motley crowd are the Zeibecks. These men have
a waistband wound around so often that it is very often eight
or nine inches distant from their waists. This is almost
always crowded with weapons, the most conspicuous being a
knife about two feet six inches long. It is the extensive
character of their armoury and theH wonderful caps, which
look like six or seven fezes stuck one on the top of the other,
which distinguish the Zeibecks from the Pomacks. In point
of civilization, or, to speak more accurately, of savageness,
there is probably little to choose between the Asia Minor
Zeibeck and the Bulgarian Pomack. So crowded has this
bridge been during these late days that it has been difficult
to get over it in a carriage. Once at the Stamboul end, we
see additional evidence that the great crowds in the street
are refugees. On one side are numbers of country horses for
sale, probably three-fourths of them stolen. They are going
now at about one-tenth of their ordinary prices. The owners
have no use for them, and perhaps no money wherewith to
buy food for them. On the other side men in almost every
variety of costume except European are staring at the stalls,
where cheap European articles are being sold. Kurds and
Albanians, Arabs and Bulgarians, Syrians and Tartars, are

MR. palgrave's theory. 515
jostling each other together with Circassians, Pomacks,
Greeks, Armenians, and Turks.
Any one who knows Constantinople at ordinary times cannot
but be struck with the contrast between the Turk of the
provinces and his co-religionist of the capital. It has long
; been a favourite theory with certain writers who wish to see
everything Turkish in the most favourable light that the
provincial Turk is much more honest and much less vicious
than the Stamboulee. This, for example, is the conclu-
I sion which it seems to me Mr. Palgrave has come to.
Hardly any epithet is too bad to apply to the Stam
boulee. Mr. Palgrave absolutely refuses to undertake his
defence, and paints him as black as any hater of Tur-
. kish misrule could desire. But in the interior of Asia
Minor he believes himself to have found traces of the old-
fashioned Turk, whose word is as good as an Englishman's
bond. Other writers have taken Mr. Palgrave's theory much
farther, and boldly assert, as two or three of your contem
poraries have done during the last few months, that while the
Stamboulee, meaning by that word the representative official
Turk living in the capital, is about as bad as it would be
possible to make him, it is because he has been brought into
connection with Western civilization, Western roguery, cor
ruption, and infidelity ; and that the provincial Turk retains
the original virtue of the race uncontaminated by the injurious
influence of Christian civilization. Travellers who come to
Constantinople, and find easily enough what is the condition
of things here, may well console themselves with the hope
that things are not so bad in the country. The country,
however, they very rarely visit.
I venture to say that an hour's walk through the streets of the
¦ capital just now would help to dispel any such illusion.
Here about us are provincial Turks by the hundred. They
are in every variety of dress, from the simple sheepskin with
the wool worn inside to that of the village imaums in the
: flowing robes of the old-fashioned Turk. Most of them seem
to be absolute strangers to water, and as they go lazily saun
tering along, staring at all the novel scenes about them, one
does not wonder that a great fear has sprung up among the
L l 2

516 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Stamboul Turks, hot only of the CHcassians, but of their
own countrymen.
Any one who believed the reports of those who have perhaps
only spent a few days or weeks in Constantinople, that the1
provincial Turk was more trustworthy, because he had been
brought less into contact with Europeans and retained more of I
his primitive simplicity, would I fancy soon begin to doubt,
the truth of his belief. His observations would soon show
him what is of course the truth in Turkey, as it is in everyj
other country of the world, that the inhabitants of the towns
are more civiUzed, more polite, and less barbarian, boorish,
and less uncouth than those of the country. As the bigotry
and superstition of the French peasant is greater than that
of the dweller in Paris, so the fanaticism and conservatism ;
of all the Moslem ideas which have made a just regard to
the rights of their Christian neighbours impossible is greater ;
among the provincial Turks than among the dwellers in Con- ;
stantinople. The latter at least see something of the lives of :
civilized men, cannot shut their eyes to the fact that the-.
Christians are at least their equals, and in many respects
superiors, and their minds are educated thereby. The lesson j
which etymology teaches of the difference between the con- -
dition of dwellers in cities and dweUers in the country is cer- .
tainly not belied in Turkey.
Amid the crowds in the streets are numbers of groups of
Gipsies. In this country these wanderers conform to a cer
tain extent to Mohammedanism. Their women wear the
yashmak. During the attacks made upon the Bulgarians
they were often guilty of some of the worst excesses, and
probably it is the knowledge of this fact that has driven so
many of them to take refuge in the capital. Passing along,.
we see them crowding into every hollow which can give pro
tection from the weather. Here it is an old cellar, the super
structure of which has been burnt, which they have occupied..
Their tents are pitched wherever there is a plot of spare ground..
At one of the mosques, formerly a church dedicated to St.
John the Baptist, a family has made use as a shelter of the
ancient font, long since turned out of the building, and.
placed on its side in the mosque yard. A Httle further on,"

REFUGEES IN CONSTANTINOPLE. 517
crowds of refugees are sheltering themselves in and around
St. Sofia. Great trains of arabas are coming along a
street in another direction from the Adrianople road. These
are almost invariably drawn by bullocks or buffaloes. The
whole conveyance is one which is significant of the advance
ment of agriculture, and of the government of the country.
When Mahmoud entered the city four centuries ago, the carts
could not have been of a more primitive construction, nor
the animals of a worse breed. A simple box of the roughest
possible description, put upon wheels, without a spring, and
drawn by bullocks of wolf -like colour, is all that any of the
country Turks can show. There is not a carriage, a spring
cart, or anything more advanced than this araba in the whole
melancholy Hne that is coming in. If there were, it would
not be able to travel many hours over the roads leading
towards Adrianople. The shivering wretches who are in
these arabas have generally a covering made of open matting,
which affords very Httle protection against wind and rain.
An ordinary carrier's cart, such as every village in England
could have produced at any time during the last forty years,
would be a travelling palace in comparison with anything
which the thousands now coming Hi can produce. The
poverty-stricken condition of the Turkish peasant, and the
little advance he has made in civUization, is a fair comment
on what I have heard spoken of as the Turk's " genius for
government."
I have never seen the Turks work so energetically as they have
done during the last two or three weeks, in endeavouring to
feed, to find room for, and to introduce order among, the
refugees. They are assisted in this work by various societies.
Several of the largest khans in Stamboul are filled with the
refugees. The service in many of the mosques is no longer
performed, because the building is filled with them. In some
of the churches Christians have Moslems among them. All
the villages along the Bosphorus have received their share.
The Civic Guard is employed in distributing bread. In
doing their work they are often not very particular about their
means. The cabs are seized and are made to convey refugees,
or sick and wounded soldiers, or provisions, from one place

518 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
to the other, and every now and then a number of Arme
nian or other hamals are swept up, and set to do a few hours'
work, of course, without the chance of being paid.
Many of the refugees have brought with them all the property
they possess. The wardrobe of a Turkish peasant family,
however, is seldom very large. Furniture he has none, unless
a few simple cooking utensils and a prayer carpet or two
are to be so considered. The CHcassians and Gipsies, how.
ever, have brought in a large mass of plunder. One case has
been taken up by the Patriarch of a girl of seventeen, who
states that the Circassian claiming her murdered her parents.
The cattle of the country can be bought for a pound each.
A secretary of an embassy bought a few days ago in the
streets a horse, with saddle and bridle, for about six shil
lings. A Bishop's robe was exposed for sale on Sunday
last in the Grand Rue of Pera, for a Turkish pound. It
had, probably, cost at least fifteen. Some of the local
Greek churches have purchased sUver ornaments and furni
ture intended for church use at very cheap rates. A
collector of old swords, sabres, and arms of every kind,
might make a smaU fortune if he could go among the
people who have come in during the last few days and
make his selection.
There is, no doubt, a very considerable amount of distress
among the refugees, and for some time to come they will
require a large amount of aid. By far the larger number
of them, have no money, and are incapable of earning any in
the capital. But to look at the men and women one sees in
the streets one would hardly imagine the distress to be very
great. To many of the men the march into Constantinople
seems to be a sort of pic-nic. The wonders even of this
capital are as great as those of London were to a North
umbrian or Cornishman a century ago. It is in the faces of
the women and children that one sees signs of suffering.
The little pinched faces which peep out from bundles of rags
in the arabas as they pass, and the careworn or haggard
faces of the women, who seem to have lost all interest in
everything, even in their own children, tell of days and
nights in the cold, and perhaps snow, and of insufficient

MASSACRES AT VIZA. 519
food. For theH sakes, at least, it is to be hoped that the
i armistice will soon be followed by definite terms of peace, by
the retreat of the victorious armies, and by permission to
return to their homes.
Meantime the great question for the residents in the capital is,
will terms of peace be speedily agreed upon, or are we still
destined to stand a siege ? If the latter is to be our fate, we
have some very disagreeable companions, and we can only
hope that the end will not be long.
:: Constantinople, February 13th. — The discussions in the
Turkish Chamber of Deputies with regard to the massacres
of Greeks in Viza and its neighbourhood have been of the
warmest character. Petraki Effendi, the representative of
Rustchuk, has taken the most active part. The only denial
which has been given to the facts stated is by Mustapha Bey,
who stated that " The religion of Islam does not permit the
perpetration of the acts imputed to the Circassians. There
fore, as Mussulmans, they could not have committed them."
Whether they were committed by the Circassians in any
other capacity than as Mussulmans Mustapha does not say.
It is fair to add that the great majority of the members of the
Chamber, Christians and Moslems alike, joined in the demand
for a strict investigation, and for the punishment of the
' offenders. I had prepared a summary of the facts set out in
the debate in the Chamber, but at the last moment have
received a statement, evidently compiled from official sources,
and embodying the report to the Greek Patriarch, which sets
out the cHcumstances more fully than the report of what was
said in the Chamber does. This will give a notion of the
renewal upon the Greek population of Eastern Roumelia of
' what aroused the indignation of Europe when committed in
South- Western Bulgaria.
The following is the account forwarded by my corres
pondents : —
"I might, perhaps, give a more faithful description of the
terrible scenes which occurred at Viza — scenes, in contem
plating which one feels his hair standing on end, and at which
Satan and Hell must certainly have been filled with envy,

520 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
were I to hold in my hand, instead of a pen, a lighted torch:
and trace letters of fire, such as would resound to the utmost
ends of the earth on layers of gunpowder. On the 22nd of
January the Commander-in-Chief, Mehemet Ali Pacha, coming
from the localities north of Adrianople, passed through Viza
at the head of an army of 32,000, and stayed one night in the
town. The inhabitants spared no pains or money in pro
viding for the comfort of the General and his army.
" Before taking his departure on the following day the Pacha
gave orders to the civil governor of the town to remain con
stantly there, protecting the life, honour, and property of the
population, and not to leave the place unless such cHcum-
stances should arise as would render it impossible for him to
stay. The inhabitants, labouring under great agitation,
owing to certain rumours which had reached them of attacks
and raids committed elsewhere by Circassians, warmly
begged of the Pacha to leave in the town a smaU detachment
of his forces to guard the country, and, in case of need, be
there to repulse any possible attacks on the part of
marauders. The Pacha, however, refused this request, on
the ground that any such detachment left behind might ulti
mately have its line of retreat cut off, adding that there
were other detachments coming after him which had orders
to halt wherever their presence might be required, and to
which he requested the inhabitants to show the same
courtesy that they had shown to himself and his army, and
' prepare the provisions they would necessarily require. The
same things were repeated to them by the officers who
passed through on the following day. The inhabitants,
exclusively Greeks, immediately set to work and prepared
such a quantity of bread and provisions as would have
sufficed for the requirements of double the number of the
forces expected, and having got everything for theH reception
ready, waited for their coming, like hospitable innkeepers,
at the very doors of their houses.
" In the midst of the refugees following in the wake of
' Mehmet Ali Pacha, and who since the day before had been
constantly passing through the town, there suddenly
appeared, coming towards Viza, a large body of armed men,

MURDER AND PILLAGE. 521
consisting entirely of Bashi-Bazouks, Zeibecks, and Circas
sians. Not the slightest suspicion of them entered into the
minds of the population. On the contrary, some of the
townspeople, in obedience to the orders received from the
Commander-in-chief, and confiding in the assurances given
by him and his officers, went fearlessly forward to meet the
new-comers, and offer the provisions they had prepared. It
is at this point that the curtain is drawn up, and a sight pre
sented to the world so ghastly that the understanding fails to
comprehend it, and before which imagination itself becomes
distracted with horror and wonder. No sooner were they in
the town than these savage hordes of marauders, without a
single word of explanation or warning, fell like hungry
wolves upon the unprepared and peaceful inhabitants, seized
almost all of them, and, after plundering them of what they
happened to have about their persons, obliged them, by
pointing their guns at theH heads, to say whether and where
they had any money hidden. There is no torture which they
did not invent in order to extract from the mouths of their
victims such a confession. Massacres, murders, tortures,
mutilations, rapine, pHlage, fire ; such was their infernal
programme. Priests were seized, insulted, and ultimately
tied on piles of wood and burnt alive. Many a parent would
have preferred, were the option left to him, to put his own
eyes out, like CEdipus, rather than see his daughters, innocent
young girls, sacrificed before his very sight, at the altar of
dishonour, and trodden under the heels of shame, he being
expressly made to stand by and witness, with tied hands and
feet, the dreadful sight, God only knows with what unspeak
able agony. . . . The daughters of the greater number of
families, as also many married women, upon whom the
savages had satiated their most brutal passions, have been
¦ carried off, and nothing has been ascertained as yet as to
:" their fate.
"Until late at night the firing of musketry continued with
unabated fury, and the number of corpses lying about in the
streets and within the houses increased every moment. In
the meantime the pillage of houses and shops went on most
savagely. The plunder was being continually brought out

522 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
and laden on carts and horses, and so bent did the savage
marauders seem to be upon destruction that the goods that
the carts would no longer hold, being aHeady overladen,
they threw under the wheels, and, passing the carts over
them, broke them to pieces. The roofs of houses were
pierced through or pulled down that nothing that might by
chance be hidden there should escape their greedy grasp.
Thus many people who, in the hope of escaping the general
massacre, had fled to the tops of their houses, met there with
their deaths after being submitted to the most horrible
tortures. Corn, barley, Indian corn, and other cereals were
scattered about in immense quantities in the streets. The
holy vessels of the Greek Church were taken out and put
up to a mock auction, while the sacred edifice itseH was pro
faned by being turned into a stable in which these monsters
tied up their horses. The cathedral church and buildings,
after having been pillaged, were set fire to and burnt. Owing
to the frenzy with which they broke into the cathedral and
the Bishop's palace, we had come to think that they must
have also laid murderous hands upon our respected pastor,
and that, in addition to the numberless other victims, we
should also have to mourn for the loss of one of the most
virtuous and distinguished Metropolitans of the orthodox
Church. Fortunately, however, his Eminence happened at
the time to be staying at Medea, one of the three cathedral
towns of the see of Viza, and was thus, by the will,
undoubtedly, of Divine Providence, saved from that hurri
cane of murder and pillage.
" The scenes that were being enacted in the streets and houses
are beyond description. The atrocities committed here are,
I am afraid, without a parallel. Respectable and peaceful
citizens, women, children, none were spared, but either put
to death by torture, shot, or mutilated. The hands of a sick
and dying person, who was being carried to a Mussulman
house by a Turk, were cut off, and the porter had his skull
broken. After the bands of Zeibecks, Bashi-Bazouks, and
Circassians, came the Gipsies, seizing upon everything that
the others did not consider worth carrying off, and completing
the work of plunder and devastation. Even the very mats

TERRIBLE SCENES. 523
of the houses were carried away. On the following day,
from early dawn until night set in, musketry fire was con
tinually heard, from which it appeared that the savages must
have returned to Viza for the purpose of completing the
work of the preceding day. They plundered again the houses
and shops, seized upon everything that could be carried away,
mercilessly put to death all the inhabitants, men, women,
and children, that they could lay theH hands upon, and
finally ended by setting fire to the town, which soon became a
whHlpool of flames and smoke, while they rushed towards the
mountains, whither a few of the inhabitants had managed to
escape, and whom they now sought out, their thirst for blood
not being yet satiated. About one half of the population of
Viza, consisting entirely of Greeks, some at the point of
death, others already dead, are lying about in the streets
and houses unburied and rotting, while those who
managed to effect theH escape to the mountains are still
wandering there, in the very heart of winter, almost naked,
with bare feet, without a roof over their heads, without food
of any kind, trembling with cold, hunger, and fear. The
father, the mother, the children of one and the same family,
no longer recognizing one another, are, in a sepulchral voice,
and with bloodshot eyes, asking each other whether they
know what has become of their fathers, their husbands, their
mothers, their chUdren ; if any one has seen or heard of
them ; whether they are alive or dead.
" From Viza the wUd bands betook themselves to the villages of
St. George, St. John, Pinaca, TchakU, Karaki, Serai, Yorali,
Mukriatissa, Asranyo, Toprika, Ahmet Bey, Messina, Tsfikoi,
and Tchogara. New atrocities, new scenes of pillage, rapine,
murder, and devastation, occurred at each of these places.
The same terrible fate seems to have befallen not only the
villages belonging to the ' caza,' or circumference of Viza,
numbering a population of some 12,000 souls, exclusively
Greeks, but also those belonging to the ' cazas ' of Medea,
' Pyrgos, and other ' cazas ' appertaining to the ' sandjak ' of
j, Rodosto ; and furthermore, according to information received
thence, those belonging to the ' sandjak ' of Adrianople.
About these, however, I can give no details, as the telegraphic

524 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
communication has been lately interrupted on all sides, and
not one of the affrighted inhabitants durst come out of the
lair into which he has crawled seeking refuge.
" About the following, however, most horrible, abominable, and
unheard-of crime, in itseH a Colossus of savageness, a whole
abyss of atrocity, I have most authentic and reliable informa
tion, though, for the sake of humanity, I should have been
glad were it otherwise. It appears that the inhabitants of the
•village of St. George, 800 souls in all, Greeks entirely, flying
before the Circassians, who had attacked and destroyed theH
village, managed to hide themselves in a large cave near Kara
Dere. The Circassians, ever thirsting for Christian blood,
were scouring the country in search of victims, and finally
fell upon and discovered the place of refuge of these un
fortunate people, and immediately tried to effect an entrance
into the cave. In this, however, they were baffled, the en
trance to the cave being well- guarded and bravely defended
by the refugees. This show of resistance on the part of the
people, and the fact, perhaps, that three of their number
were mortally wounded by the shots fired from within,
seemed to exasperate them the more, and, after two or three
further attempts to effect an entrance but without success,
they determined by any possible means to put immediately to
death those within. They accordingly set to their infernal
work, and by means of crowbars they ultimately succeeded
in opening a hole on the roof of the cave, through which
without loss of time they proceeded to pour a large quantity
of brimstone and asphalte, to which they set fire by firing
their guns through the hole. As a consequence, the inside of
the cave was in a few minutes filled with smoke so dense that
the poor people dropped down one by one, dying of suffoca
tion . . . and the souls of 800 martyrs fled almost
simultaneously towards the foot of the throne of their
Creator, the Almighty. Out of the 800 who entered the
cave only eighteen were saved, almost by a mHacle, having
on first entering the cave taken their stand at the furthest
end of it, and having, after the Circassians had taken
themselves off, exulting no doubt in their abominable
work, come out of that immense grave by dragging them-

A SURVIVOR. 525
selves over the dead bodies of their fellow villagers of yester
day.
" We here at Medea experienced a close blockade. Thrice did
the Circassians and Bashi-Bazouks attempt to enter the
town ; but each time they were most effectually repulsed,
thanks to the measures taken and the courage displayed by
the population, which, like those of all the surrounding
districts, is entirely composed of Greeks. We hardly,
however, consider ourselves safe as yet. The sword of the
Circassians seems to be hanging over our heads like that of
Damocles. We greet to-day's sun in doubt whether we shall
live to see that of the morrow. We are, so to speak, wavering
between life and death.
" I was on the point of closing this letter when I heard of the
arrival in the town of one of the most respectable inhabitants
of Viza, a Greek, who had managed to effect his escape to
the mountains. I went to see him, and found him barefooted,
almost naked, bloodstained, and trembling with cold and
hunger. He gives a full confirmation of the reports which
reached us here with regard to the dreadful occurrences there.
He came on here to report the- same by telegraph, but he
found the wires cut.
" Such atrocious crimes are committed, at only a few hours' dis
tance from the captial of the Ottoman Empire, and that
towards the end of the nineteenth century, which really in
cruel mockery only must have been denominated the century
of light and civilization. Let civiUzation now come forward,
pull up its sleeves, dip its hands up to the elbows' in blood,
and exult over the sight of rotting corpses and broken skulls."
From another account I extract the following particulars : —
" Of those who had fled to the mountains, the husbands were in
utter ignorance as to the fate of their wives, the wives as to
that of theH husbands, the fathers had lost theH children,
mothers their daughters. Large numbers of young girls
were carried off by the Circassians and Bashi-Bazouks,
countless women were dishonoured and afterwards tortured
to death, whHe parents, seeking in agony for their chUdren,
were seized, despoiled of all their property, and shot in cold

526 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
blood. It becomes impossible to describe at length the
atrocious deeds committed, the murders, the piUage, the
rapes, the massacres, the mutilations, or to fix the number of
young girls that were carried off. No less than 6,000 carts
were laden with plunder and young girls ; 300 of the
population of Viza are lying about in the streets of the town
dead and mutilated, presenting a most ghastly aspect ; 800
souls who had taken refuge in a cave were burnt alive by the
Circassians. The number of the massacred at Viza has not
been as yet exactly ascertained.
" The wild marauders, after satiating their thHst for blood and
pillage, set fire to the villages devastated, and betook them
selves to other such scenes of action. Only Medea, of aU the
towns of the province in which these fearful occurrences are
taking place, has up to the present moment escaped the
general devastation, haying been strongly fortified and
watchfully guarded day and night by the inhabitants. It has
already been thrice attacked by Circassians and Bashi-
Bazouks ; but, though hitherto these attacks have been
successfully repulsed, we are still in the greatest anxiety with
regard to our ultimate fate. There are no governors now
either at Viza or in Medea, haying both left, that of the
former town ten, and that of the latter four, days ago.
" P.S. The massacres and pillage still continue ; the Christians
who had fled to the mountains are being pursued and
mercilessly put to death ; the dead remain unburied. If no
immediate measures are taken for coming to the relief of
those who have fled to the mountains they wiU before long
succumb to hunger and cold."
The letter below describes the incident of the entry of the
British Fleet into the Dardanelles, and its return to Besika :—
: : Syra, February 15th. — The circumstances connected with
the recent movement of the Fleet are these: the British
Ambassador received a telegram on Saturday afternoon from
Lord Derby, stating that Admiral Hornby had been ordered
to leave Besika with six vessels, and proceed to Constan
tinople. Until then Mr. Layard knew nothing of the proposal,

THE BRITISH FLEET. 527
which appears to be due solely to the English Government,
without his request or suggestion. It appears to have been
presumed that, as the Porte had given the requisite permission
to pass the Dardanelles on a previous occasion, this would
remain vaHd, or that no difficulty would be found in obtain
ing fresh permission. Mr. Layard was requested to obtain
the necessary document. The Porte refused, alleging that
the circumstances had changed. The preliminary conditions
of peace and the armistice had been agreed to. The advance
of the Fleet would be construed as hostUe to Russia. The
allegation as to the protection of the lives and property of
British subjects was admitted on all hands to be insufficient,
the condition of the capital having improved, and the danger
of disturbances having become, immensely less since the
armistice and the presence of the Russian army in virtual
possession of the lines of Constantinople. No one here
imagines this can have been the object of the Fleet's attempted
visit. The Government, moreover, pointed out that if the
Fleet entered with permission, the Russians would probably
occupy the city. It is asserted that the Grand Duke Nicholas
telegraphed to this effect on Monday, on hearing of the pro
posal. It appears that Admiral Hornby received his telegram
two days before Mr. Layard. AdmHal Hornby sent the
Serapis first to see whether instructions had been received,
and anchored to await a communication from Mr. Layard.
This was received to the above effect, and he returned to
Besika Bay. Great preparations had been made here for the
reception of the Fleet, hundreds waiting its arrival. The move
ment is regarded everywhere as inexplicable, almost ludicrous.
Yesterday Pera was placarded with this notice : — " Lost, be
tween Besika Bay and Constantinople, an ironclad fleet. Any
one giving information will be handsomely rewarded."
Another correspondent furnishes further details of the state
of affaHs in Constantinople : —
H Constantinople, February 21st. — The last rumour this morning
says that England and Austria have almost determined to
act in concert against Russia, but there is no official grounds

528 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
for the report. It is one of the many wild stories that fly
from mouth to mouth almost ceaselessly now ; the on dit
of the evening generally being in flat contradiction of that
of the morning. In the meantime the Russians are very
busy intriguing at the Porte, and fortifying their positions
round the ill-fated city. Now and then two or three may be
seen strolling along — already with the air of easy triumph —
followed by the curious glances of the Sons of the Prophet,
who scarcely thought six weeks ago that they would be thus
seeing their streets paraded by a conquering Giaour. The
Russian generals are staying at the Hotels Royal and Misseri,
and may also be seen dining at the clubs.
The works outside are being very strongly fortified, especially
at Tchataldja, where the Russians are massing their troops
with the greatest vigour. Riding out to their camp last
Saturday, the road presented a pitiable spectacle. Dead
horses lay at almost every hundred yards, and here and
there some wretched animal, more Hke a skeleton than a
horse, generally badly wounded, dragged itseH along. One
creature I noticed quietly cropping the grass at the roadside
with one leg broken and its entrails brushing the dust. Such
animal suffering is bad enough to see, but the refugees, still
swarming in, bring us face to face with terrible human misery.
It is perhaps a matter of wonder to some why they should
leave their homes and theH property to travel far and roughly,
and then find no rest ; but the solution is possibly to be found
in the behaviour of the Circassians, who are certainly quite
as much accountable for Turkish distress as the Muscovite.
These ruffians arrive at a village with exaggerated tales of
Russian violence — how the neighbouring village has been
first sacked and then burnt after all the inhabitants have
been murdered, &c. — a product of their fertile imaginations
— and so work on the minds of the villagers that the Kaima-
khan generally gives warning, and the result is a total exodus
— with the exception of Messieurs les Circassiens, who stay
an hour later to plunder the now empty houses, and ride off
enriched with the loot acquired by this ruse ! One thing
they are very careful of, and that is, never, if possible, to be
within reach of a Russian halter.

THE POMACKS. 529
The effect of a guilty conscience is very apparent in the case of
these gentry, and perhaps is often an active agent in the
flight of the Pomacks, most of whom are more or less im
plicated in the first massacres. Of course, when the guilty
have fled, the innocent do not care to remain and receive
the punishment, which would most likely fall to them, and
so they fly, one and all — such a flight as probably has not
been seen for years. We were watching them come in last
Friday, and surely a more piteous spectacle could not be
found. A cold — bitterly cold — day, with the north wind
driving down a storm of sleet and snow from the moun
tains, to add one more sheet to the snow-shroud already lying
deep over the face of the country. Toiling along, wearily,
listlessly, scarcely caring to trail one foot after another, the
wretched fugitives wind along the streets, some — the fortu
nate — to find shelter in stables, outhouses, or some such cover,
some to sink on the way, and some — do not count them the
worst off — to sleep softly in the snow outside for the last
time.
All the horrors of ancient history are here being re-enacted in
the face of our advanced civilization, women killing their
children to prevent them from sufferings like their own,
fathers stabbing their daughters, husbands their wives, to
save them from the Russians and their own Circassians —
flight swHt and sudden, generally with no change of clothing,
and often on foot, through the most rough and perilous
country, and then to arrive in their capital like this ! Look
at the party now passing. First comes an old woman — she
cannot be younger than sixty — with her loose pantaloons
tucked up to the knee, and a pair of wooden sabots on her
stockingless feet ; with a staff in one hand and a rope in the
other, tied to the horns of two oxen, she tramps wearily
through the mud and slush, as perhaps she has done for
hours. The oxen, lean and emaciated, can scarcely drag the
, clumsy, wooden-axled waggon over the uneven road. It is
filled with what may strike a first observer as rags — mat
tresses and two or three chairs. Look closer ! The rags
hide pinched and haggard faces : a young woman nursing a
little baby, sheltering it from the cold at the expense of her
VOL. II. M M

530 WAll CORRESPONDENCE.
own bosom, and two little girls; they are jammed between?
the mattresses and two chairs, and very likely have not
changed their cramped position for many hours, as the snow
lies thick on the coarse Bulgarian cloth that covers their
heads ; and these, be assured, are considered the lucky ones.
Some must walk, half starving, a week or more, with scarcely
a rag to warm them.
Behind the waggon comes an old man, blind, and leaning on
the neck of a shaggy little pony, on which are seated a girl
and a boy ; and lastly a younger man, probably the father of
the baby in the araba, a man in the prime of life, once
strong and vigorous, as his great frame and deep, bare,
shaggy breast show plainly, but now bowed with excessive
fatigue, and leaning on a stout stick. His step is uncertain,
and the rough swathing worn by the peasants round theH
feet is almost completely worn away from his. Suffering is
written in every line of his face, which has the white-drawn
look one , is getting to know so well, and which only comes
from the combined effects of acutest physical tension and
mental anxiety. I cannot venture to give him money, for to
give to one is to grant a claim to all — Heaven knows what a
good one they have ! — and to establish a precedent which
would surround us in an instant with fifty others in quite as
evil a case as this man. As I turn away, a Turk growls out,
" It is the doing of him, and his " — meaning the English.
In fact the feeUng here is painfully strong against England;
fear is the only sentiment with which they now regard us ;
love is lost and respect is following it, owing greatly to the
Russian influence, which is perpetuaUy at work disparaging
England and EngHsh actions. The episode of the attempted'
entrance and subsequent retreat of our fleet from the Dar- :
daneUes gave rise to many reflections in the Turkish mind —
whether true or not it is not for me to discuss — and by it the
prestige of England certainly sank several degrees, as wit
nessed by the insulting placard posted on the Embassy gates.
This gratuitous piece of insolence was very significant ; in ;
fact, for two or three days every Turk inquired chaffingly,
" Where is your fleet ? " and the Greeks took up the strain.
Such was the valentine which England had the honour of

ENGLISHMEN ROBBED. 531
receiving at her Embassy from her old love, Russia, this
^ year ; for it is notorious that the placards were printed and
posted by Russian agents. Considering that the Russians
are now actually in the town, the quiet that reigns is rather
extraordinary.
lOne anecdote, showing the state of the town, before closing this
letter. Three Englishmen were out shooting on Friday, and
when within ten minutes' walk of their own house, were
attacked by Pomacks, who drew knives and demanded their
valuables. One of the party having a revolver produced it,
but, from the extracting rod having slipped into one of the
chambers, it would not revolve, and was, consequently, use
less. Perceiving this at once, one of the Pomacks walked
coolly up, first took the pistol, and then relieved the party of
theH watches and purses, and let them depart — "with pockets
light as the Pomack's heart." No redress was possible.
; : Constantinople, February 27th. — The conditions of peace are
now sufficiently well known to enable one to form a judgment
upon them. They are, no doubt, heavy ; but, assuming them
to be accepted by Turkey, the practical question is how far
they ought to commend themselves to England. The question
¦ how far they affect English interests is one which naturally
will occupy the first place in Parliament. In discussing it,
however, the nation ought not to lose sight of the considera
tion of how far these conditions will affect Russia herself and
South-Eastern Europe generally.
For the sake of the Turkey in Europe which remains, as
weU as for that of the inhabitants of Asia Minor, it is
greatly to be desired that the large indemnity which Russia
demands shall be lessened. Bad government has screwed and
wrung almost the last piastre out of the population of Turkey,
has rendered dozens of villages in Asia Minor desolate, has
completely destroyed many branches of industry in the
country, and still hampers almost all those which exist to
such an extent as to handicap producers. To increase the
" burdens of those already suffering is terrible. If the money
came out of the possession of the ring of Pachas I should
not have a word to say, but it will be taken mostly
M M 2

532 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
from people who not only are not responsible for the war, but
have wished God-speed to the invader. The severe lesson
which has been given to the Turks may make them take a
thought and mend.
The recent dismissal of the Chamber of Deputies does not look
very much like it, but at the dictation of the Conference
such an institution may become permanent in Turkey, and
the proceedings of the Chamber were really the most hopeful
signs that Turkey has ever shown. The experiment of bring
ing men from various parts of the empHe, even when these
men were all more or less Government nominees, and of
expecting them to be content with the existing state of
things, failed ludicrously. It became evident, as I stated
at the end of last Session and at the beginning of the
present, that the Pachas would have to get rid of the
Chamber, or the Chamber would get rid of them. If the
Conference will provide that the Chamber shall become a <
necessary part of the Government, I think it may be trusted :
to get the Pachas into order.
In the Chamber the Christians and the Arabs played the most *
prominent part, and if it meets again these, by far the most1
able populations of the empire, will become the most power.
ful. It is undesirable that their efforts for reform and for.
pure administration should be weighed down by a financial;
burden which the country cannot carry. The war indemnity,;
too, would give Russia a good deal of opportunity of inter-:
fering with the Government of Turkey. In the interests oh
the country it is desirable that there should be the least:
possible ground for such interference. Without bemg a;-
Russophobe, I should, to the utmost of my power, insist;
that the less occasion that could be given to Russia to inter.
fere with the Government of the country, the better for
English interests, and for the interests of the inhabitants of
what has hitherto been the Turkish empire.
The Greeks of the capital have been delighted to find that iff
England and in Germany there is a disposition not to allow
their claims to be overlooked. It is expedient as well as
right that the just claims of the Greeks should be carefully
considered at the reorganization of South-Eastern Enrope:

THE CLAIMS OF THE GREEKS. 533
which is about to be made. It is right because the Greeks
of Thessaly, Epirus, Macedonia, and Crete ought not to be
allowed to remain under such mal- treatment — misgovernment
is too mild a word — as they have endured during the last
twenty years. It is expedient because the Greeks of Greece
evidently have no intention of allowing their fellow-country
men in enslaved Greece to remain without help. Leave
Greece out of account, and the Eastern Question will not be
laid to rest as it ought to be for some years.
(There are, however, other reasons why Europe ought not to
allow the Greeks to be forgotten. They are by their numbers,
their history, and theH intelligence, the first race in the
Empire. Tried by almost any test they are worthy of con
sideration. No race in Turkey has made such progress, I
doubt whether any race in Europe, situated as the Greeks of
Turkey were half a century ago, has done so much for its
own education. Almost aU Greeks read and write. Elementary
schools have been established in every Greek village ; high
schools for both sexes, and literary societies, in the large towns.
What has been done for education has come out of the
pockets of weU-to-do Greeks, who are taunted with want
of patriotism because they do not often go to live in Greece.
TheH intelligence is shown by the fact that the Greek mer
chants hold their own in every capital in Europe. They have,
during the last generation, made a progress both in wealth
and in civilization which is without parallel in Europe.
Moreover, while the Turkish race is diminishing in numbers
around them, they are increasing. Their language is the
finest in the Empire, and is rapidly being brought back to a
perfection which it has not known for 1,500 years. Their
historical traditions, and even their Church, give them aspira
tions and a national unity which no other race in Turkey
possesses. In Constantinople they are probably ten times as
numerous as the Bulgarians, and that city will, in all likeli
hood, again become the capital of a Greek State. Unless
there is to be a war, the latter event is in the distance. If
there should be a general war, probably Turkey will drop
altogether out of the map of Europe.
The important point to be remembered is that the legitimate

534 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
hopes of the Greeks should now be so far satisfied that they
may continue to make their progress without such jealousy
and envy of Bulgaria as will interfere with the peace of the
next few years. We have arrived at a stage in the history of
the downfall of the Ottoman Empire, and in making the new
departure it is important that everything should be cleared
for easy running during the next stage. I do not share the
jealousy which some of the Greeks display of the progress of
Bulgaria ; but it is easy to recognize that this jealousy is
natural, and that the possibility of Constantinople falling
into the hands of any race but theirs is one which should
cause a good deal of alarm. If there should be any danger,
as during the first few years of its history is quite probable,
that Bulgaria should be under the influence of Russia, the
best counterpoise against undue Sclav interest would be an
extended Greek influence. Whether the Greek provinces I
have named be added to Greece or be formed into autonomous
States which must inevitably belong to Greece, the Greek
populations may be trusted to act together, and from the
anti-Russian point of view, a strong Greece will be a useful
barrier.
If Roumania and Greece are independent, and Bulgaria rid of
the fear of being re-absorbed into Turkey, every year will see
these states becoming more populous and anti- Russian. There
will be less room than there has ever been for Russian
intrigues. Three barriers will have been created against
Russian progress southward — three barriers which every
year will become stronger — and if the stage we are now
entering on last but twenty years, they may be strong
enough of themselves to resist Russian invasion, if such be
attempted. 4
On the 14th of February, the British Fleet, under the com
mand of Vice-Admiral Hornby, again entered the Dardanelles,
and passing into the Sea of Marmora, took up an anchorage
off Prince's Islands. The official statement of the object of this
important movement was that it was rendered expedient by the
necessity for providing for the safety of British subjects in Con-

THE FLEET IN THE SEA OF MARMORA. 535
-sWtinople. The following letters from a correspondent on
the shores of the Dardanelles relate to matters which perhaps
more than any others, at this period, occupied the attention of
Europe : —
:: Gallipoli, February 27th.— The Turks, if necessary, can
make a stronger resistance on the GallipoH fortifications than
is generally supposed. Though Constantinople is virtually
in the hands of the Russians, Gallipoli is far from being
. similarly situated without a severe struggle. Twenty-two
thousand Turkish troops are now in the lines of the fortifica
tions, with fifty Krupp cannons of large calibre on the modern
system, and thHty-six on the old system. Ammunition trains
are constantly leaving for the lines, notwithstanding the pro-
¦ babdity of the preliminaries of peace being speedily signed.
Three ironclads of the British Fleet, with Vice-Admiral Com-
merell on board, are now here. The Flamingo is at Rodosto.
Three other vessels of the fleet are at the Gulf of Ismid,
with Admiral Hornby, and three more are cruising between
Enos and the north-western coast of the Gallipoli Peninsula,
in the Gulf of Saros, watching the movements of the Russians.
SmaU-pox is greatly prevalent, especially amongst the refugees
here. The saUors and marines of the fleet are not allowed on
shore in consequence of the prevalence of this epidemic.
Zabit Pacha, the commandant at Gallipoli, has orders to leave
for ExamUe, a village on the other side of the fortifications, to
meet the Russian delegate and arrange the neutral ground,
the lines of demarcation proposed being two miles on each
side of ExamUe.
: Gallipoli, March 1st. — The feeling here is not so universally
in favour of peace as it is in Constantinople. The evacuation
of the Tchataldja-Chekmejeh lines convinced the Turks in
Constantinople that it was the decree of Allah that they
should be vanquished, and the most sceptical Turk in the
capital gave up all hope of any assistance from England.
Even the passage of the Dardanelles by the fleet and its
anchoring off Prince's Islands did not change this conviction
to any great extent, as everybody felt sure that had England

536 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
meant to render assistance it would have come too late, as the,
Russians were to all intents and purposes in Constantinople.
In Gallipoli, however, I find that the Turks still cling to the1,
hope that their old ally will help them if the conditions of
peace be too hard. Although they incline to the belief that
England has very little sympathy for Turkey left, yet they
feel sure that if British interests be interfered with she will
declare war with Russia.
If you teU a Turk here that the two huge Honclads now lying
in sight from my window are here to protect British subjects
in case of a disturbance, he will correct you, and say, " No,
not British subjects, British interests." In addition to the
Honclads here there are three at the Gulf of Ismid, one of
which is the Alexandra, with the admiral on board. There
is the Flamingo at Rodosto, and three others cruise about in
the Gulf of Saros, between Enos and Cape Bakla Burun.
These ironclads are watching the movements of the Russians,
and their cannon could be brought to command the plain of
Kavak, through which the Russians would have to pass in
case of an advance towards the fortifications.
Although there is reason to believe that the preliminaries of
peace will speedily be concluded, and are possibly signed at
the time of writing, yet the Turks are remarkably vigilant
here. Almost every day ammunition trains leave for the for
tifications, and there are now 22,000 Turkish troops in the
lines. In the fortifications there are upwards of 100 cannon,
fifty of which are Krupp guns of heavy calibre. It will be
thus seen that if necessary the Turks can maintain a very
strong resistance at this point. Zabit Pacha, the military
commandant of Gallipoli, has received instructions to go to
Examile, a village about ten miles on the other side of the for
tifications, in order to arrange, with two Russian officers
awaiting his arrival there, the lines of demarcation. Examile
will be the point selected to mark the line of demarcation,
and is situated on the road from Playar to Kavak, it being
understood that the Russians occupy positions two and a half
kilometres (two miles) from Examile on the Kavak side,
while the Turks remain at a similar distance on the side of
Playar.

RODOSTO AND GALLIPOLI. 537
When I was at Rodosto on the 24th ult. I found there amongst
the Russian officers a very general conviction that the Russians
were about to enter the capital. A report upon good authority
was circulated that that morning 30,000 troops, under the
Grand Duke Nicholas, had gone- to Constantinople. The day
before five battalions had left Rodosto for Selivri, about half
way between Rodosto and the capital. This served to
strengthen the report of the Russian occupation, a report
which I also found current on my arrival at Gallipoli.
Indeed, the English Consul here told me he had received it
upon good authority.
Small-pox, especially in the houses where the refugees are
quartered, is very prevalent here. Amongst the victims is
Mr. Lucas, who was the correspondent of one of your con
temporaries at GallipoH. He died ten days ago. There are
daily deaths amongst the refugees from this disease, but the
number of deaths is not so large as it was a fortnight since.
The sailors and marines from the British Fleet are not aUowed
to land in case the small-pox should be communicated to those
on board.
One battalion, about 450 strong, left yesterday for Crete, and
two more will leave as soon as a steamer is placed at their
disposition.
Since the arrival of the fleet and the passage of Suleiman's
troops through Gallipoli, there has not been a sufficient supply
of the necessaries of life to satisfy the requirements of the
regular inhabitants, and when it is remembered that there
are 5,000 families of refugees here from the Balkans, it cannot
be a matter of surprise that necessary articles of consumption
cost to-day three times the price they commanded a month
ago. It is only what one may call the luxuries of life in the
shape of eatables that are to be met with for a reasonable
price. Yesterday, for instance, being unable to find anything
else, I purchased a brace of plump partridges for 2s., and
two dozen large oysters for 8d. It would probably have
taken one an hour to find any one who would sell me a loaf
of bread, but game of all kinds is hawked through the
streets. Indeed, there could not be found a better field for
speculation than Gallipoli under existing circumstances.

538 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Several speculators arrived this morning, and are going to
try and get through the lines to Keshan to supply the
* Russians there with provisions, &c. If they succeed in
reaching their destination, and in keeping up the means of
communication for obtaining supplies, they will make a small
fortune. Apropos of Keshan, I am informed that when the
Russians under General Komaroff and Prince Tchirkaski
entered the town, they took away all the arms from the
Turkish inhabitants, and handed them over to the Christians.
The result was that the Christians began to plunder the
Turkish houses, and burned several Turkish farms. The
Russians have no commissariat there, and the soldiers have
to live on what they can get ; of course the Turkish popula
tion suffer greatly. From an eyewitness of what is going on
there, I hear that the situation is but little better than it
was in Paris during the last days of the siege, when any
animal that could be met with was sold as food, and consumed
thankfully as such.
Under the circumstances detailed it is of course a most difficult
task to provide for the wants of the refugees in Gallipoli.
As far as possible, however, they are assisted by the Govern
ment and by Mr. Odoni, the English Consul. This gentleman
represents the Compassionate Fund, and divides the labour
of relief with the Turkish Government, the latter looking
after the male refugees, while the Compassionate Fund gives
sixty paras (about 2-|d.) a day to each woman, and thirty
paras to each child. Mr. Odoni informs me that he distri
butes about 4,000 piastres daily. This relief, of course, in a
great measure alleviates the sufferings of these unfortunates,
but the relief would be much greater if it were possible to
distribute it in kind. This cannot be done, for there are not
sufficient bakers in Gallipoli to supply the requirements of
the inhabitants. Indeed, for fear of a bread riot, the bakers'
shops are all closed, and it is only for a short time during the
day that they open a part of their shutters, through which
they supply the eager claimants for food.
I was present yesterday afternoon at one of these distributions,
and the sight was a pitiable one in the extreme. The baker
was standing on a ladder inside of his shop, in the upper part

THE STRUGGLE FOR BREAD. 539
of the barricades of which Was an opening about the size of
the door through which the pubHc is supplied with railway
tickets in England. This opening was just within the reach
of a middle-sized man, but it was out of the reach of children
and most women. A strong guard of soldiers was in front of
the shop, which was besieged by an eager crowd of refugees,
each with hands uplifted holding a caime of a piastre or two
towards the proprietor of the shop, who as rapidly as possible
was handing out the bread and taking in the money. Pushing,
hustUng, and squeezing against each other, they all strove to
reach the opening in the shutters. I did not notice any
women amongst the crowd ; indeed, if there had been any
they would have stood a faH chance of being crushed to
death ; but round about its outskirts women and children
were sitting, anxiously waiting for a chance of getting near
the opening in the baker's shutters. One glance at their
pinched and haggard faces was enough to tell the sad tale of
what they had suffered.
Amongst the crowd I noticed particularly one stalwart Turk,
who, though a man of almost gigantic proportions, showed
by his sunken eyes and hollow cheeks that he had gone
through great privation. The expression of that man's face
as he forced himself through the crowd has fixed itself on
my memory. It was an expression which said as distinctly
as if he shouted the words, " Shall I be too late ? " He
knew well enough that before long the supply of bread wrould
be exhausted and the porthole in the shop would be closed.
At last he succeeded in reaching it. He received two loaves,
and at once commenced gnawing at one like a ravenous dog
at a bone, holding on to the loaf with one hand while he
forced for himself a passage through the crowd with the
other. His expression now was one of contentment. It was
to me a matter of some surprise that the eager candidates for
bread did not come to blows ; but during the quarter of an
hour that I was a spectator of this scene only once did the
soldiery forcibly interfere.
It appears that the soldiers are not allowed to purchase bread
from the bakers, as it is supposed that the rations with which
they are supplied are sufficient for their requirements. But

540 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
notwithstanding this, whilst I was looking on a soldier tried
to force his way through the crowd towards the baker. He
was seen by some of the soldiers on guard in the act of
endeavouring to purchase a loaf. They immediately arrested
him, threw him on the ground, and, in spite of his stubborn
resistance, three men quickly had his hands pinioned behind
him, and led him off towards the police-station. Then it
was — and then only — that a Turkish officer — a disgrace to
the uniform he wore — who had been looking on during the
affray, walked up and struck the prisoner several severe
blows on the face and head with his fists. I have had nearly
two years' experience with the Turks, and have never before
seen Turkish officers treat their men with anything but kind
ness. They are all fighting for a common cause, fighting
with heavy arrears of pay due to them, and often upon very
short rations.
In the letter below a correspondent at Rustchuk describes
the surrender of that town to General Todleben in accordance
with the terms of the armistice : —
U IT Rustchuk, February 21st. — Rustchuk was given up to the
Russians yesterday. About 3 p.m. General Todleben, com
manding in the place of the Cesarewitch, accompanied by
some 200 of the staff, and followed by a brigade of infantry,
two batteries of artillery, and four sotnias of Cossacks, ad
vanced to take possession of the town. They were met on
the outskirts by a deputation of miserable-looking beings,
Bulgarians, who welcomed them as saviours, &c, hat or cap
in hand. The General addressed them in a few kind and
warning words, shaking his finger at them the while, as if
telling them to behave themselves properly. Some week or
so ago, before the evacuation, looking through our glasses at
the town from the batteries opposite at Slobosia that had
done all the bombarding, my friend commanding the Russian
artillery told me they had spared the buildings as much as
possible, and only aimed at the batteries.
But while we found that many of the latter along the river
banks had been effectually silenced by a well-directed fire, we

SURRENDER OF RUSTCHUK. 541
found also that the town itseH had suffered far more than
Giurgevo. About every third house in the western quarter
showed signs of having received anything but pleasant visitors.
The centre of the town suffered most. The Grande Place
looked especially desolate, though now crowded with the
horses and carts of the transport train. On one side was the
empty skeleton of the Konak, formerly a handsome and im
posing building, standing scorched, and blurred, and totter
ing; the barracks sadly battered on the other. Opposite
to them the buildings, whatever they were, had entirely dis
appeared in a heap of rubbish covering an acre of ground.
On the fourth side stood the remains of a large building, the
orphan asylum, and the relics of the principal mosque. The
outer walls were reduced to an indistinguishable mass of
crumbled bricks and mortar. The more solidly built body
and dome had resisted the shot and shell, but presented a
terribly shattered appearance. Perched on the top of half a
minaret that remains, a few pigeons looked down mournfully
on the ruins beneath. A little to the right again of the
Grande Place, all the houses are riddled and blown inside
out in a marvellous manner.
The only inhabitants now are a few dogs occasionally growling
at each other over some yet dainty morsel. Most of the
houses in the street leading out of this quarter have caught
a chance shell or two, and the loss among the inhabitants
has been rather heavy. As the Russian troops entered on the
western side, through mud almost knee deep, they must have
wondered somewhat at the results of their comrades' fire
from the Roumanian side of the river ; for their own shots,
flying over the outlying forts, failed to reach in any case be
yond the ditch of the enceinte of the town.
Shortly after the entry of the Russians the last two regiments of
Turkish soldiers marched out towards Shumla, accompanied by
one or two Russian staff officers, beyond the neutral zone. They
were a particularly fine soldierlike set of men, many of whom
wondered why, never yet beaten in battle, and without being
short of provisions, they should have to give up such a
strong place to their enemies without a fight. But their
extraordinary belief in Kismet ingrained in them by their

542 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
religion, accounts, perhaps, for the dignified nonchalance with
which many an old Turk looks upon the Russian passers-by.
The Russian soldiers seem to fraternize readily with such of
their enemies as remain in the town ; and I have seen more
than one case of Turk and Russ walking hand in hand along
the streets. I found that the English and French Consuls
and all the Red Cross people had left a day or two before
for Varna, so my expectations of hearing the incidents of the
siege from my own countrymen were disappointed.
In the hotels and inns there was plenty to eat, though not of a
luxurious kind or of great variety. This morning at the
principal hotel, the General and some sixty officers sat down
to breakfast at a horseshoe table well laid out ; but it was
rather amusing to hear these officers ask for champagne and
all kinds of wine, quite forgetting that though in an hotel,
they were in a town that had been besieged for months.
Provisions in the town, though not in much variety, were
plentiful and cheap. The garrison could have held out from
gix weeks to two months longer. Extraordinary as it may
appear, since the influx of foreigners and provisions, every
thing has risen in price. Some Jews got permission to enter
the town before the Russians occupied it, and took all the
available shops and stores at a rent of a napoleon or two per
month, and when the would-be cunning ones from Bucharest,
who were waiting at Giurgevo till the place was open, came
in yesterday and tried to hire stores, they found all aHeady
let, and to be relet at rents varying from 50 to 300 napoleons
per annum. As it is customary to pay rent in these parts in
advance, the long term of a year is fixed, though most people
want to take places only for two or three months. One pro
prietor, a Bulgarian, having several houses, was particularly
exorbitant in his demands. One of his shops was extremely
well situated and convenient, but he refused to let the shop
by itself, insisting on letting the whole house, consisting of
some eight or nine goodly-sized rooms, and asking 600
napoleons per annum. On looking over the house, it was
found to be used as a hospital, full of typhus cases. It is to
be hoped, for the sake of the health of the town, that he may
not lower his price till all opportunity of letting has passed.

DEPARTURE OF GENERAL TODLEBEN. 543
This morning, after a general scrutiny of the place and its
fortifications, General Todleben left for Giurgevo and
Bucharest, en route for Russia, leaving General Prince
Doudakoff Korsakoff in command. The latter has quartered
very few troops in the town, only four battalions, and two
squadrons of Cossacks, sufficient for sentries in the enceinte
and in the principal streets. He told me he thought it a bad
thing to bring troops in from camp life in a campaign into a
town, as they not only get into trouble and rows, but become
unfit for service again at once.
This morning an inspection was made of all the fortifications.
The outlying forts, no fewer than forty in number, are ex
ceedingly well situated, every advantageous feature of the
ground having been made the most of ; while the construction
of the interior of these earthworks excited universal wonder
and admiration. Thorough protection is afforded to the
garrison when not actually working the guns. They are well
housed under cover, in well-built casemates of timber below
the parapets. There are also well-buUt shell stores and
powder magazines, and every arrangement for a lengthy
sojourn in these earthworks, carried out with as great skill
and care as in any fortress that has taken years to build with
masonry, and yet all these subterranean arrangements are
well and most commodiously built with timber and earth.
Preparations had been made to hold the place to the last in
anticipation of an assault, though after the experiences of
Plevna the besieging army would have found it a very hard
nut to crack. Between the outlying forts and the old enceinte
the ground is cut up into innumerable smaU fields, the banks
and ditches of which form row upon row of excellent trenches
for a defending force ; while the outlying streets of the town
had been prepared for barricades.'
While the Turks held Rustchuk and Widdin they could feel
that they had almost as strong a hold on Bulgaria as the in
vaders ; and in the event of complications arising and any
European Power interfering, they might, with the help of
these strongholds, have regained every inch of the province
they had lost.

544 WAR CORRESPONDENCE,

CHAPTER XIX-
THE RISING OF THE GREEKS.
Corfu and the Corfiotes. — England's Obligations. — The Greek Conscription.—
Athens. — Riot and Change of Ministry. — Tbe Greek Army on the Frontier.
• — Insurrection in Thessaly. — Hopes of English Aid. — Dread of the Turkish
Fleet. — Position of Syria. — Crete and the Cretans. — The Position of Thes
saly. — No Quarter from the Turks. — Epirus. — Public Excitement. — Armyros.
— The Insurgent Headquarters. — The Dead Loek. — The Turkish Irregulars.
— Their Mode of Warfare. — Sourp. — The Insurgent Chief, Valenza. — The
"Sacred Band" of Thebes. — Cruelties of the Turks. — Hansim Aga. —
Outrages by the Turkish Naval FoTces. — Nicolaides and bis Band of 'Volun
teers. — The Three Chief Centres. — Anxiety regarding Russia. — Chalcis. —
Turkish Prisoners at Mintzela. — Return of Volunteer Combatants. — The
Mode of Campaigning. — Volunteers bound for Macedonia. — General Soutzo's
Force.
Although the rising of the Greeks and the war in Thessaly and
Epirus are only incidentally connected with the great struggle
between Russia and Turkey, the important position assumed by
the Greek nationality in relation to the re-settlement of South.
Eastern Europe, gives sufficient interest to the following
series of letters to justify their finding a place in this
volume. ** Corfu, February 11th. — The fertile island of Corfu,
with its gardens and olive groves, its fortified capital and
busy shipping, forms a curious contrast to the wild moutains
of Albania, which shut in the eastern view. Here is a very
garden of delight and fertility; there, yonder, a tract of
stern, desolate rock, with few villages to dot the mountain
side, and with long lines of gleaming snow, stretched out
above the lower background of green and grey. How near
the opposite coast seems to be in this bright atmosphere of
Northern Greece. How calm the narrow strait which sepa
rates Corfu from the mainland of Albania. It is a scene
which I think is scarcely equalled by any of the famous bays

CORFU AND THE CORFIOTES. 545
and harbours of the world, by New York, or the Bay of
Naples, or even by the entrance to the Bosphorus from the
Sea of Marmora.
But though Corfu is very lovely as a natural scene, and though
the frowning ramparts of the citadel tell of many byegone
wars, there is not the excitement here just now which we at
home associate with these stirring times. The island is neutra
lized, and its fortress is without modern artillery. Only the
night before last the remainder of the troops stationed here
took their departure for another point on Greek territory,
nearer to the possible scene of action. Military stores have
been removed, and everything done to keep Corfu strictly
within the Hmits of neutrality, whatever Greece, as a whole,
may be obliged to do. The island is not, in fact, to serve as
i a base of operations to the forces of King George, and its
inhabitants may look at the Turkish territory so near to
them without any anxious misgivings about Zeibecks and
Bashi-Bazouks.
The whole place (except the ancient citadel) could be overrun
and plundered by a force from Albania, if national faith
were thrown to the winds ; but there lies an English gunboat
in the roadstead — Her Majesty's ship Rapid — and she would
have something to say to such a Turkish expedition. We
are bound to see that no harm comes to the Corfiotes, for it
is by arrangement with England, at the time of the cession
of the Ionian Islands, that no guns are mounted on those
Venetian ramparts that have so often baffled the Turks when
in the pride of their strength and fury. The Corfiotes of
to-day have no siege to fear, and no danger to apprehend for
their pleasant farms and fertile gardens. But they have paid
their blood tax to the Hellenic Kingdom ; they have cheer
fully taken a part in sending their best and dearest to the
doubtful chances of military service. The troops which
departed on Saturday were men of the reserve, the last call,
if I mistake not, before the National Guard itself would be
summoned. There was much cheering when they marched
to the place of embarkation, and what might be called a very
good feeling exhibited by aU classes. But this conscription
had borne heavily on the Corfiotes, and many lads of the
VOL. II. K N

546 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
wealthier families were shouldering a rifle in the ranks. So
no Wonder that bright eyes were dimmed with tears in
the balconies as they passed, and that scores of women
moved sadly away after the noise and the confusion were
over.
I will not attempt to speak of Greek politics from this corner
of the kingdom, but will wait until I get somewhere nearer
headquarters. The Greek Company's boats are taken up
by the Government for carrying troops, and the only way
to go forward is by an Austrian steamer to Syra and the
Piraeus. As far as I can make out, the Greeks are almost
stupefied by the rapid course of events in Turkey. They
know not what to do, but are resolved not to abandon their
kindred beyond the frontier to Turkish rule, H they can pos
sibly avoid it. The moment is very trying for the people
and their rulers, and needs both firmness and prudence to
bring them safely through.
* * Athens, February 14th. — The Greeks are wofuUy puzzled
by the turn which events have taken. They have waited for
England to move, and have waited in vain ; they have
counted on Russian support, as a last resource, and seem to
have reckoned without their host. In a word, they are
almost as completely at sea as the English Government itself,
which is saying a good deal. Now that Turkey is beaten
and that Russia is inclined, as it appears, to let her old enemy
survive, upon certain conditions, the Greeks are clearly " out
of the running," so far as Muscovite help is concerned.
There was a moment, just after the fall of Plevna, when
Greece might have taken part in the war with advantage to
herself. But that favourable moment was aUowed to slip,
and it was only when stung to madness by the feeling of being
utterly ignored in the armistice negotiations that the Greeks
at length resolved on action.
You have recently heard, by telegraph, how there was a sort of
riot in Athens and a change of Ministry and an advance to
the Thessalian frontier. You have also heard, I doubt not,
how the foreign representatives worked upon M. Coumoun-
douros to induce him to hold his hand. If Greece persisted,

KING GEORGE'S ARMY. 547
in attacking Turkey she was to be left to her fate — Syra and
the PHeeus were to be at the tender mercy of Hobart Pacha,
and the Englishbuilt fleet of the Sultan was to work its
will, far and wide, upon the Greek seaports. This threat
was enough to cause the invasion of Thessaly to be counter
manded, and, after a few days of horrible panic at Syra,
things settled down again into their ordinary course. The
Greek army remained upon the frontier, and there it still
remains, eager for a second order to advance. The Greek
people continued its warlike preparations, and everything on
the political horizon was as dark and confused as before.
Whatever the politicians of Athens may have intended, the
Christians of Thessaly have been thoroughly aroused by
hearing that their countrymen were so near at hand, and the
. insurrection has spread from village to village with surprising
rapidity.
It will be very difficult for Greece to stand by and see these
ThessaHan insurgents reduced to submission at the point of
the bayonet. Yet how is King George's army to deal at the
same time with both Russia and Turkey ? That is what it really
comes to. At any rate, the Greeks in general appear to think
so. They fully accept the theory of an alHance between Turk
and Muscovite, and they sigh over the blindness of England
in not warmly supporting the Hellenic factor in the Eastern
Question. Of course there may be some blindness on their
own part in thus thinking. I only give you the current
opinion for what it is worth. But certainly on returning, as
I have, to Greece at a very critical moment, there is nothing
which strikes me so much as the tone of angry disappoint
ment about Russia, and the hope, so freely expressed, that
England wHl now make common cause with the Greeks.
Nothing would be more popular in Greece just now than a
war, with England as an ally, against both Turkey and
Russia together.
It is very cold whilst I write, and the mountains are covered
with snow. But there is a clear sky overhead, and a pleasant
glow of sunshine to justify the reputation of the Athenian
climate. We had fine weather all the way from Corfu to
Cape Matapan, and then a strong westerly wind with torrents
n N 2

548 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
of rain, which continued for the remainder of the voyage to
Syra. At that busy port things were not particularly cheer
ful. The weather was gloomy, and the inhabitants had '
scarcely recovered from their panic of a week ago. They
still half expected the arrival of Turkish ironclads, although
some one, to encourage them, had invented the report that
the whole Turkish fleet had been bodily handed over to
Russia. Nay more, it was already manned by Russian sailors,
and was about to give battle to Admiral Hornby. You can
judge from such a specimen of Syra gossip how ready men
were to believe anything and everything that went the way of
their wishes. A Turkish fleet in Russian hands would be a
blockaded fleet before very long, and this was just what the
islanders desired. " Save us from Hobart," was their cry,
" and we will pay what you Hke towards a war on land."
The position of Syra is, in fact, very exposed to an enemy who
had the command of the sea. The rich unfortified town lies
conveniently near to a safe anchorage, where the bombarding
fleet could take up a snug berth in any state of wind and
weather. All the commercial progress of forty years, all the
comfortable, houses and weU-filled storerooms of the islanders,
their shipyards, and their crowd of coasting craft might be
destroyed in a few hours, H a hostile squadron once began
the fatal work. It seems to be an understood thing among
civilized nations that sailors are privileged beings who may
burn and destroy at pleasure, where theH military friends
would be called brutes for firing a shot. No plea of defence-
lessness is admitted to protect you from Honclads. There is
almost a feeling of scientific gusto in the way in which pro
fessional men talk of " opening fire with splendid effect " at
so many thousand yards. They seem to expect the land
lubbers who suffer from this fire to enjoy the sense of doing
some good in the world when they are used as targets for
heavy guns.
Such being the case, no wonder that Syra was anxious at the
thought of a visit from Hobart Pacha. No wonder that the
islanders derived comfort from seeing three foreign men-of-
war anchored in the harbour. An Austrian, a German, and
an Italian vessel lay watching the town during my stay. But

ATHENS. 549
beyond " protesting " and recording their protests at the
different consulates, and taking their consuls on board, I do
not quite see what they would have done for Syra had the
Turks really appeared.
Athens itself is very empty. The military are all, or nearly all,
away on the northern frontier. Many families have gone
abroad to get out of possible danger. There are com
paratively few strangers in the hotels, and it is altogether
a particularly dull winter season, in spite of the constant
stir in politics and the angry bustle of the demonstrations
in the latter part of January. Even the lively, quick-witted
Greeks are not inclined to look over-cheerfully at their pre
sent position.
** Athens, February 1 6th. — I wonder whether any person in
this city really knows "what is passing beyond the Turkish
border. My own impression is that no one has the least idea
how many insurgents are actually under arms, nor how many
Turks are ready to oppose them, nor how much of the country
is now freed from Turkish rule.
The Greek Government, which may make a shrewd guess at
some of these details, is surprised, from hour to hour, by
news of fresh risings in Thessaly and Epirus, whilst, as to
Crete, that island seems to have thrown off all pretence of
acknowledging the Sultan's authority. The stone has been
set rolling, and neither King George nor M. Coumoundouros
can stop it, even if they would. These Greek provinces have
suffered much in years gone by, and are, at last, thoroughly
roused against their old oppressors. They are well provided
with arms, and will not submit to be drilled into obedience
without a desperate struggle. It is most of all in Crete that
the Christians have now the upper hand. There are so few
soldiers at the disposal of the Turkish Governor that he can
only hold the fortified towns upon the sea-coast, and has not a
chance, at present, of repeating the cruel exploits of Mustapha
Pacha among the up-country vUlages. Unless strong rein
forcements should be sent to Crete within the next few weeks
the island will shake itseH so completely free that Turkey
would need a couple of campaigns to reduce it to submission.

550 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
AH the small outlying forts and block-houses would be cap
tured, so that the Turks would have to begin again at the
point where they found themselves in 1867. The cautious
fort-buUding tactics of Hussein Abni Pacha and the delusive
constitutional promises of Ali Pacha would all have gone for
nothing, and the Turks would have to recommence theH con
quest at the very beginning. Though Crete is under the
disadvantage of being cut off from Greek assistance by the
superiority of Turkey at sea, there is more than a balance for
this in the rugged nature of the country and the warlike
character of the inhabitants. Your Cretan is a man who has
fought his master again and again with tolerable success, and
who is ready, at a moment's notice, to have another try.
Give him plenty of arms and ammunition, and it wUl require
an Osman Pacha, with half the Plevna garrison, to do much
towards subduing him. When we remember what havoc was
wrought among the Turks in 1867 by the rifles and muskets
- — some even flintlock muskets — which the insurgents then
possessed, we may form a dim idea of what might now be
expected when Crete is well supplied with the best modern
weapons.
As for Thessaly, there is neither so favourable a formation of
the country, nor so warHke a Christian population, to oppose
the Turks. But Thessaly is much better off in one way than
any other insurgent province. It is supported by the imme
diate presence of a disciplined Greek army, with cavaHy and
artillery, which could cross the frontier in the easiest manner
possible, and bring fearful odds to bear upon those famous
Turkish irregulars. The frontier has been aHeady passed
and repassed, as every one knows, since this month of
February began, and, with all their disadvantages, the Thes-
sahan insurgents are encouraged by the knowledge that
countrymen of the Greek Kingdom are angry and armed and
close at hand. There will be trouble, you may depend on it, :
if these same Thessalian insurgents are worsted by the Turks,
which may very likely be the case. There wHl be trouble of i
the simple and intelligible kind, which consists in nothing :
being able to hold back the Greeks from interfering. They
simply cannot stand by to see their kindred butchered within :

EPIRUS AND THESSALY. 551
sound of the cries of the victims. Right or wrong, the
Rubicon was crossed when the Greeks make their forward
movement early in the month. Thousands of Thessalians, as
I hear, flew to arms, believing that the day of deliverance was
at hand, and when diplomatic pressure made the Greek army
faU back to its own territory the political mischief had been
done. Thessaly, hitherto wavering, had chosen the path of
insurrection, and nothing lay before the wretched Christian
villagers who had thus committed themselves but victory or
death.
The Turks make war, as usual, upon their grand old "historic"
plan of giving very little quarter. We have constant accounts
of massacre and outrage, accounts which may some of them
be exaggerated, but which are, at any rate, believed in Greece,
and the national feeling is wrought to the highest point. In
such a state of affairs the position of the Greek army, so near
its foe yet not allowed to strike, is terribly trying. It speaks
well for the discipline of King George's men that they can be
held in hand as much as they are. No wonder that we have
news of several desertions, in which young soldiers, burning
for action, have slipped away over the frontier and joined the
insurgent bands. It would be impossible to prevent such
unauthorized volunteering for special service, and however
vexed the military authorities may be at finding awkward
gaps in the ranks, the nation is by no means displeased to
learn that the Thessalians are receiving this round-about sort
of help.
Prom Epirus we only gather the outline of a situation full of
danger and excitement. The Christians of that province are
slowly but surely gliding into a general insurrection. There
have aHeady been several slight skirmishes; and it is said
that the Turks are everywhere falling back to theH fortified
positions. This last detail I rather doubt, but they are cer
tainly in some danger should no help soon reach them, as the
Christians are very numerous in comparison with the ruling
caste, and have been well supplied with breechloaders by
friends at a distance. Whatever the exact value, in a military
point of view, of the Epirote movement, it will at least have
the effect of preventing the despatch of any Turkish troops

552 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
from Southern Albania into Thessaly. It is there that the
critical struggle of the day is to take place. If Thessaly can
only be freed for a moment from the Turks, people here think
that they will not be allowed to return thither as masters.
No Congress or Conference would re-impose them on a pro
vince already free, nor would a formal request, a la mode des
Pachas, with all its accompanying horrors, be for a moment
tolerated. Every scrap of news, therefore, from Thessaly is
eagerly waited for in Athens and as eagerly discussed by high
and low.
The various telegrams flashed to Athens and to all Europe,
which, ere you receive this letter, will have told you of fight
ing in this and that village on the Thessalian frontier, have
produced a great impression among the Greeks. Public
excitement is kept up by the thought that blood is being shed,
women and children killed or mutilated, so near the outposts
of the national army. A strong effort is sure to be made to
induce the Government to let that army advance northwards
again, and even if this effort should not succeed, there will
be a continued state of agitation and anxiety so long as the
wild work of which we hear is going on in Thessaly. The
inhabitants of Athens will soon come to the point of exclaim
ing, " Perish the Pirseus," if this sort of thing goes on. They
will make their Government invade Thessaly, even at the risk
of bombardment by the Turkish fleet. There is a certain
point beyond which prudence cannot be counted on. I do not
say that this point has yet been reached, but we are getting
nearer to it every day.
* * Insurgent Headquarters, near Armyros, March 2nd.—
The position of affairs in this part of Thessaly reminds me
of the dead-lock which occurred more than once during the
Cretan insurrection. Neither side was strong enough to
bring the other to battle with any prospect of advantage, and
the opponents faced each other, watchfully resolved not to
make the first false step. Then, as now, it was the Turk who [
held the fortresses, and the insurgent who occupied the open
country. Then, as now, the native Mohammedans of the
province were quite unable to assert their right to be a domi-

armyros. 553
nant caste without aid of disciplined battalions from other
parts of the Empire. Crete would have been free over and
over again if the Cretan Turks had been left to fight their
own battles. It was only the arrival of reinforcements of
regular troops and the strict blockade of the island by Hobart
Pacha that brought the insurrection to an end. So will it be
this time if Thessaly be destined to sink once more under the
Turkish yoke.
The mere fact of there being an insurrection in the province,
coupled with the fact of a few obstinate and bloody skir
mishes, which prove the insurgents to be in grim earnest in
their work, is enough to deprive the Turks of everything but
theH fortified strongholds. They collapse at once into an
attitude of dogged defence, or sally fiercely out at intervals,
to burn a village or two it may be, and to get pitilessly
knocked about by their active foe. All those gaUant cut
throats, Zeibecks, Albanians, and the like, who were so lordly
and terrible a few months ago — so clever at extorting money,
so reckless in inflicting pain — are brushed away from the
scene with marvellous ease by a little systematic shooting
down. They don't like being shot, and are soon as shy of
the mountain side as a doctor is said to be of taking his own
prescriptions. Nothing would be more simple for them to do
than to climb up from yonder town, which seems almost at
our feet, and try the mettle of these stern, weather-beaten
men who are crouching by hundreds among the grey rocks
and stunted brushwood. But it would be a costly experiment,
and the Turks prefer to remain quietly in Armyros. They
have no fear of being assailed in their stronghold by an
enemy without artillery, and they calmly abandon the open
country to any roving bands of insurgents that choose to
traverse it.
I have spoken of the town of Armyros as seeming almost at
our feet. There is, indeed, a magnificent view over a large
part of Thessaly from this rugged hilltop, where the insur
gents are posted. We stand among the ruins of the citadel
of ancient Halos. There are huge blocks of stone around us,
evidently the remains of a Cyclopaaan wall, and some parts
of the time-worn rampart might still be used as shelter in

554 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
case of attack. Below us, to the northward, is a vast and
fertUe plain, bounded by a distant range of mountains, and
behind this first barrier are to be seen the snow-covered
summits of Ossa and Olympus, shining Hke silver clouds on
the horizon. To the north-east is the Gulf of Volo, with
the town of that name, shut out from our sight by a jutting
point of rocks. But Pelion is clearly visible, and we can
detect several white specks upon its side which are viUages
held by the insurgents. They are in some danger, it is said,
just now of sharing the fate of Platanos, for the Turkish
force lately engaged in this district has gone in great part to
Volo, and Muchlif Pacha is supposed to mean mischief. Be
that as it may, the view is very fine and we can fully realize
how easily every movement of the Turks is watched from the
insurgent position. They cannot send a corporal's guard out
of Armyros without being observed, and, if necessary,
checked, whilst it must be almost impossible for them to
gather recent news of what the insurgents are doing.
Of course, they know pretty accurately the numbers of their
foe, and have, I doubt not, a general idea of his present
position. But he can always gain half a day upon them for
any particular movement, which is of immense advantage in
irregular warfare. Mitzas, for instance, marched across
yonder plain without opposition, and has captured, we hear,
a Turkish convoy on his way to Pelion. Other insurgent
bands are likely soon to follow, and the garrison of Armyros
is not thought to be strong enough or active enough to stop
them. The fact is that the Turks are wofully dispirited by
the defeats of their main army in Roumelia, and by the
presence of the Russians before Constantinople. It seems
hopeless thankless work to fight on in Thessaly, when all is
lost in Thrace. Many of the native Thessalian Moham
medans are looking anxiously to the future, and begin to
see that even if this insurrection should be put down, the
province cannot be ruled much longer by Stambonli
Pachas, but must soon be joined to Greece. In such a
case it would be imperative on them to come to some sort
of terms with their Christian neighbours. The Thessalian
Turks would have ' quietly submitted, for the most part, to

LIBERTY AGAINST DESPOTISM. 555
a force of regular troops. This many of them are reported
to me to have said during these last few weeks, and I can
fully believe them. But they can scarcely be expected to
welcome Hregular bands of insurgents, of whose retaliation
some of them have good reason to be afraid.
You must not fancy that the insurgent headquarters on the
rugged hilltop are very snug or well furnished. There are
no quarters at all, in one sense ; for the ancient ruins around
us do not supply a roof overhead, . and there is only the
bracing out-door life of a long and exciting picnic. The
weather, fortunately, is fine and mild at present, but it has
been very severe for the time of year in Greece, and the
insurgents have suffered great hardships. They look none
the worse for these, however, and are in capital fighting con
dition, despite theH ragged clothing. As we sit under the
lee of a rock, with these picturesque, figures in large grey
capotes clustering near us, and the meat that is to form our
midday meal is roasting slowly over the ashes of a wood fire,
I am reminded of many pleasant days on the Cretan moun
tains when Omar Pacha was threatening the insurgents of
that ilk with destruction. Here is the same good old cause
of Liberty against Despotism — the same bright southern sky,
and the familiar accents of the Greek tongue chanting
patriotic war-songs. We were not always lucky enough to
have such a hearty meal in Crete, for there was not a base of
operations like that which we now possess. An unarmed
traveller may cross and recross the Greek frontier into Thes
saly as often as he likes, so that our stronghold near Army
ros is well supplied with food. The most serious drawback
to the comfort of the insurgents is the shadow of a dread
ful tortured death, which always hangs over them.
The Turkish irregulars make war as their forefathers made it.
No mercy to a fallen foe is the rule of the whole tribe. Let
but one bullet bring you down on the mountain side and
you are a murdered man ten minutes later, if the Turks be
advancing. This is a serious reflection, and makes my wild
companions in Thessaly keep a bright look-out. They play a
game in which the forfeit was death, and perhaps torture, so
you must allow them a Httle vigour of action in return. Yet

556 WAR CORRESPONDENCE*
I find, to my great contentment, that every effort is being
made by the insurgent chiefs to prevent any unnecessary or
wanton violence, even to Turkish irregulars. All hands seem
to feel that we are in a state of transition from our old
policy to a new, and that the Greek proverb " Better a wise
enemy than a foolish friend " is at this moment singularly
appropriate. The insurgents have to look to a final settle
ment, as well as the Thessalian Turks ; and when I asked
whether it would be possible to burn Armyros (of course,
merely as a military speculation), I was told that unless they
could occupy the town it was no use attacking it, for it would
soon be Greek.
There was a reckless destruction of property by the Turks at
Platanos, which has done their cause great harm — I ought to
say, which has increased the feeling against them ; for their
cause, as such, is hopelessly lost aHeady. They had un
successfully attacked the vUlage — as all the world has heard
— on two occasions, and the inhabitants had fled to Sourpi
under the fire of the Turkish gunboat, which killed five
women and three children. But Platanos was still uninjured,
and the insurgents merely withdrew to the mountains behind
the village, through want of ammunition. Then came a
troop of Turkish irregulars, and set fire to the whole place,
so that the wretched inhabitants (now in Sourpi) have
nowhere to go when peace is restored. As the war is none of
their making, their case is peculiarly hard. They are left
utterly destitute for the time in theH refuge on Greek soil,
and any charitable aid which friends at a distance might
send them would be relieving a very real distress.
Even as I write we can see a convoy of women and children
creeping back cautiously from the ruins of their homes, after
having picked out such articles as were not quite destroyed.
The sad procession winds slowly along the foot of the hill,
with mothers of families carrying great bundles on their
backs, and sturdy children tottering under the weight of the
salvage they are trying to secure. Poor scraps of furniture
and firewood it will be, after all ; but when one is homeless
and destitute, every little helps. As I watch the faces of my
rough insurrectionary neighbours on the hiU-side, I should

sourpi. ,557
strongly advise any small detachment of Turks from Army
ros not to come out and interrupt that convoy. Some of them
would get hurt, I am sure.
The journey from Gardiki to Sourpi, which was my last stage
before reaching the actual scene of the insurrection, is through
a wUd and hilly country, with the worst of roads to travel,
and with occasional glimpses of lovely scenery to right and
left. One mounts up from the coast Hne to a considerable
elevation in order to reach the backbone of the ridge that
separates Gardiki from the valley of Sourpi. There is a
glorious moment, from the point of view of the picturesque,
when Parnassus is stiU in sight to the southward, and far
away Olympus opens grandly into view to the northward.
The Gulf of Volo, the mountains of Euboea, and the open
sea, like a blue patch in the distance are all to be clearly dis
tinguished, and one could not wish for a fairer scene. Then
the road winds down to the valley of Sourpi, and we
travel along the bank of the little brook that separates
Greece from Turkey. What a frontier between two inde
pendent States ! A child could jump it with a moderate
run. No wonder that bands of volunteers can easily pass it
in the night — even if the local authorities were keener to
stop them than they are said to be. Down from the higher
ground, we wind to the flimsy frontier line, and so to the
little town, the terminus of postal and telegraphic communi
cation, which seems quite a fashionable resort when looked
back upon from the open hill-side, from the ruins of the
ancient rampart and the open air feast of the Pallikars.
* * Sourpi, March 3rd. — I left the Thessalian insurgents in
their strong position on the hill-top near Armyros, described
in my last letter, and after a hearty leave-taking with their
indefatigable chief, Valenza, proceeded to visit the Greek
' volunteers at a village called Kaleria, not far away. It is
only fair, in dealing with this insurrection, to distinguish be
tween the native-bom rebels who are trying to shake off the
Turkish yoke, and the sympathizers from outside who have
come to help them. I well remember how fiercely our philo-
¦ Turks of 1867 denied that any real Cretans were engaged

558 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in their effort against Turkey, setting everything down to
Greek volunteers or Garibaldians ; and if the philo-Turks of
to-day have any heart left in them, I suppose they will do the
same once more. It is only faH, then, to distinguish between
the two classes of persons now in arms in Thessaly, and to
bring out boldly the fact that the Thessalians themselves are
coming well to the front on their own behalf. They are not
so well armed as the volunteers, but are far more numerous,
and are led by native gentlemen of good means, who have
plenty to risk besides theH lives.
Their chief in this district, Captain Valenza, has, it is true, re
ceived his military training in Greece, but he is of a well-
known Thessalian family, and has under him some of the
most solid men in the district. Thus much for one part of
the force, and now for the volunteers. They are suprisingly
few in number, when we consider the impression they have
made on the Turks and the encouragement which theH pre
sence certainly affords to the ThessaHans. You might
imagine from the frequent mention of different leaders'
names that there were thousands of these active sympathizers
in the field. But the volunteer bands are very smaU, so that
we hear of Mitzas and Nicolaides, of Zikas and of the Hieros
Sochos, from Thebes, without reaching the sum total of half
a Prussian battalion on a war footing. I do not say this in
any tone of depreciation, for the very smallness of their
number makes the pluck and audacity of the volunteers all
the more remarkable. It is only to give you a just idea of
the proportion of things' out here that I come to these search
ing statistics. There must be four or five times as many, if
not eight or ten times as many, ThessaHans engaged in the
insurrection as there are of outside sympathizers, so that the
movement cannot be said to be an artificial one kept up by
outsiders alone. Men are taking part in it who, as I have
said above, have plenty to lose besides theH lives, and the
most that tbe volunteers can pretend to do is tb give com
pactness and energy to the insurrection at a particular point.
But now let us scramble down the hill from the insurgent head
quarters, and passing an abandoned Turkish guard-house,
strike off along the edge of the fertile plain towards Kaleria.

M. PETELAS. 559
Our guide, philosopher, and friend on the occasion is the
twin brother of the gallant captain left upon the hill-top.
He is as full of zeal in the civil department of the in
surrection as his brother is in the military. The mot d'ordre
of both the Valenzas appears to be " full speed ahead." Nor
is M. Petelas, that stoutest and most jovial of insurgent
secretaries, to be forgotten on our ride. His appearance
alone is a guarantee that we shall get a cheerful view even
of the enemy's scouts if they heave in sight. An outdoor
Hfe in winter, roughing it, and hardships of every kind, seem
rather to agree with him than otherwise. We chat merrily
by the way, and are reminded of what may be called the
possibilities of our situation by the keen attention with which
the insurgents who accompany us watch every human being
that we see to right or left.
There is no danger on this particular road, for the Turks are
at some distance, but one cannot be too careful when it is a
question of keeping on one's head, and the Turkish irregulars
might show a historic promptness in the opposite sense should
they come across us. I think that this slight shade of un
certainty gives zest to the ride. At any rate, the time flies
quickly enough, and we are presently at the outskirts of
Kaleria, where the Hieros Sochos is stationed. The ordinary
inhabitants have taken refuge in Sourpi for fear of an attack
by the Turks, and the Theban lads have the village all to
themselves. They are quietly employed in cleaning their
arms, in cooking, Hi mending their clothes, or in any of the
other hundred small duties of camp life when we arrive, and
seem to have taken very patiently to the less pleasant and
exciting part of a soldier's life. I notice that their Chassepot
rifles are kept in excellent order, and that they are as smart
and cleanly in their personal turn-out as can be expected after
the rough time they have been having.
This " Sacred Band " of Thebes is more like a crack volunteer
corps among ourselves in its constituent elements than like
the rank and file of a regular army. If they only get fighting
enough to keep them in good spirits, they will do famously,
but I should fear they would find the continued hardships of
mountain campaigning very trying. However, they seem in

560 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the best of spirits thus far, much comforted, no doubt, by :
having arrived in time for the affaH at Platanos, where they
showed a most commendable elan. It is a pity that there are
only two hundred of them. But one cannot expect the whole
force to take part in a dangerous expedition beyond the
frontier. The Theban lads in Thessaly are much in the case
of a picked party of volunteers from a volunteer corps, such
as we may often see on foreign service if England should ever
be hard pressed to hold her own. Their white gaiters and
fustanellas, their black caps and shaggy grey capotes, would
make a capital uniform for a whole army intended to serve
in mountain warfare. Though there are only a couple of
hundred of them they have made quite a name for themselves
in this insurrection.
Angered by the resistance they met with and by the checks
they have sustained, the Turks are guilty of many harsh and
cruel acts in Thessaly. A certain Hassim Aga is reported
to have massacred several Christian women the day before
yesterday, and each refugee who arrives in Greece brings
news of fresh outrages. I do not dwell very much upon this
part of the question, because our home public has grown
accustomed to read of wholesale butcheries, which throw into
the shade anything yet done in Thessaly. But I must, from
all that I can gather, support the complaint of the Greeks that
their insurgent friends are goaded into acts of reprisal by the
brutal violence of the Turkish troops.
It has been earnestly wished to limit the efforts of the insurgents
to attacks upon armed men in the Government employ, and
to injure the peaceful Mohammedans of the province as little
as possible. It has been wished to do by the clumsy means
of the insurrection what Europe seems foolishly to have for
bidden to be done by the natural and proper mode of a military
occupation of the province by Greece. But the task of thus
sparing Turkish property has been almost an impossible one.
The insurgents have up to this time committed no wanton
massacres of Turkish families, in which they have shown
much more humanity than their opponents ; but they have
been obliged to destroy a good deal of property. At one
place some mills were burned to cut off the enemy's supply

OUTRAGE OF A TURKISH WAR-SHIP. 561
of food. At another place a whole vHlage had to be set on
fire to dislodge its Turkish garrison. These things are part
of the hard necessity of the time, and lie at the door of those
foreign diplomatists who are leaving the Thessalian question
to work its own solution. We cannot expect the rough-and-
ready insurgents, who are risking their lives for their country's
cause, to make war in kid gloves, whilst the Turks are re
curring again and again to theH bad habit of intimidation
by massacre.
Only this morning we have news of more people kdled near
Volo, and it is certain that even those who are lucky enough
to live in the garrison towns go in terror of their lives from
the Turkish irregulars. Nothing seems capable of drumming
into your genuine Turk a decent respect for non-combatants.
He has got his own fierce narrow rule of right and wrong,
and cannot be tamed by any amount of public opinion. After
all, what is public opinion to a Zeibeck or Albanian ? He
reads no newspapers and cares not a jot for any remarks
made upon him at a distance. Let foreign critics say what
they like, his justification is ready to hand in the shape of
sword and rifle. Force is his supreme law, and he cares for
no other.
But the Turkish navy ought to show a Httle more humanity.
The ships are manned by regulars, not by Bashi-Bazouks,
and are under responsible command. All the more painful is
it therefore to find a case of reckless cruelty brought up
against the Turkish navy. Thus it stands :— On the day of
the battle at Platanos a number of women and children were
escaping from the scene of danger, and hurrying along the
road at the foot of the hills, which leads across the Greek
frontier to Sourpi. A Turkish war-ship (I have not been
able to ascertain her name) came across the Gulf of Volo
and opened fire upon these helpless fugitives. The range
was long, and it may be said that the women and children
were mistaken for retreating insurgents. But I have by
actual observation tested it as a fact that with a moderately
good glass— far less powerful than is carried on every ship
of war, the women, and especially the children, could be
clearly distinguished at the distance from which the Turkish
vol. ii. ° °

562 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
fire was dHected. What was the meaning of this brutal
attack ? It could not assist the troops that were engaged in
the valley beyond, and had only the wretched purpose of
killing five poor terrified women and three of the Httle ones
they were trying to save. Such acts of wanton barbarity do
more to rouse the ThessaHans to resistance than to awe them
into submission.
We have news to-day that Nicolaides, with his smaU band of
volunteers, mostly composed of Greek students, has broken
away in the direction of Pelion and passed safely through
the Turkish lines. This is only another Ulustration of how
completely the open country is free to the insurgents to
circulate at pleasure. Any armed party strong enough to
encounter a stray patrol of Turks can go pretty much where
it chooses, and has little or nothing to fear from the enemy.
They are for the most part shut up in the principal towns,
and do not venture forth except in considerable strength.
The insurrection is spreading far and wide, and, though but
on a small scale as yet in the way of actual fighting, must
be an immense annoyance to the Turkish authorities. The
rule of the province seems to be slipping from theH hands,
though they can force their way in any given dHection with
more or less sacrifice of life.
At this moment there are three chief centres — one in the
district of Armyros ; another east of Volo, on the slopes of
Pelion ; and a third towards the border Hne of EpHus, near
Karditza and Phanari. In each of these centres there have
been several battles — as they call them hereabouts — or rather
obstinate skirmishes, in which the Turks have been generally
worsted ; and in each there is a local revolutionary govern
ment acting on behalf of the insurgents. I understand that
similar movements are planned for the districts around
Olympus, and even for part of Southern Macedonia, so the
Sultan's representatives will soon have a Hvely time of it.
Their old imperial prestige is quite destroyed by recent events
further north, and nothing but the arrival of a large dis
ciplined force of men of the Plevna stamp will enable the,
Turks to crush out this rebellion of their Greek subjects. Of
course it would be possible for Turkey — if she be, as we hear, .

REFUGEES FROM THESSALY. 563
really at peace with Russia — to collect an army in Thessaly
which no insurgent bands could dream of resisting. The
Thessalians look very anxiously for political news, and are
haff afraid that Russia may be content to let them perish,
now that she has saved all her Sclavonian friends. But
matters have gone too far for the province readily to submit.
No mere talking about reform will do for men whose lives are
at stake, and if the Conference should wish to pacify Thessaly,
it must be done by outside pressure. The insurgent will not
lay down his arms, with the prospect of having his throat
cut the next minute ; and the Turk can hardly be blamed for
shrinking from any kind of surrender to irregular bands of
Greeks or Thessalians.
The village of Sourpi is full of refugees from Thessaly. I have
aHeady mentioned their presence in a casual way, but I must
say a word more about them before closing this letter. They
are in very great distress — homeless, ruined, and almost
starving. The Greek authorities do what they can for them,
only just enough to keep body and soul together ; and it is
sad to think how ill the poor creatures wdl fare when their
;, small stock of clothing saved from the wreck becomes ex
hausted. Scarcely any shelter is to be found for the refugees
in this over-packed frontier village. We are all of us lodged
somewhat like sardines in a tin, but the families from Thessaly
are certainly in the worst case of all, for they have so many
;; old and infirm people and tiny children to provide for. It is
very touching to see how patiently they bear the hardships
of their lot. The storm of politics and war has come and
swept them away from comparatively comfortable homes to
the utter squalor and wretchedness of their present refuge.
Would that some of our kind and open-handed people at home
could send them a little help.

* * Chalcis, March 6th. — I date this letter from Chalcis, as that
is our point of departure, but we are making such an early
start that most of what I am going to say will be written after
the Eubcean port is left far behind, to be posted at the first
chance that may occur. 0 o 2

564 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Since you heard from me in Thessaly and on the Greek frontier
at Sourpi I have been constantly on the move, and have
acquired, much additional information respecting the in
surrection. From the snug little haven of Mintzela, or
Amaliopolis, we steamed round to the northern end of Euboea,
where we took up many passengers, and then headed for the
Lamian Gulf. There was, first and foremost, a glorious view
of Pelion as we passed out of the GuH of Volo. The great
mountain is now topped with snow, and the villages upon its
side look like stray patches of the same white covering,
which has slid down towards the Turkish stronghold. There
is Makrinitza, famous for the recent repulse of Mouchlif
Pacha, and there are other spots soon to be heard of, it may
be, as fighting ground for the insurgents. Pelion is alive
with bands of armed men, who set the Pacha at defiance, and
if only the Turks were reinforced to the proper point for
bearing down all opposition there would be some hard fighting
in the Volo district. But, as it is, I do not think that the
Turkish commander wiU risk the tremendous loss necessary
to stamp out his active opponents. He will content himself
with attacking them in a cautious fashion, which can lead
to nothing decisive, and will spare his dispirited soldiery the
thankless task of storming Pelion in the old dashing Suleiman
Pacha style, that heaped up the Shipka Pass with Turkish
dead. With Russians at Constantinople, and a Conference
of the Powers in a mood favourable to Greece clearly im
pending, it is not to be expected that beys and agas and pachas
should show their ancient vigour. They are playing a lost
game, and many of them would rather come to terms with
the Greeks than risk their lives in exterminating them. Many
more have no heart left for fighting, on account of the
wretched condition in which their Government has allowed
them to exist during the last year or two.
I saw, at Mintzela, a party of Turkish prisoners — captured'
when the regular Greek troops were in Thessaly — who seemed'
quite content with their present lot, and would not avail'
themselves of the polite suggestion that they should take boat*
for Volo. Being told that they were free, they exercised-'
their freedom by remaining on Greek territory. The having'

THE VOLUNTEER COMBATANTS. 565
been absolutely without pay for a long time past had produced
a demoralizing effect on these sturdy-looking Moslems. It
seemed to be no object of interest to them at all to have
another slap at the unbelievers. They knew the hollowness
alike of victories and defeats upon nothing a day. The Greek
authorities were making them, I understood, some small
allowance in way of pay and rations from a feeling of
courtesy to guests whose visit was forced, and the prisoners
chose to remain.
Whdst we are touching on the subject of unpaid or " hard up "
combatants, it is as well to deal with one feature of the Greek
insurrection, which is very likely to be misunderstood abroad,
I allude to the frequent return of volunteer sympathizers
from the scene of action, before any definite point has been
reached in the struggle for which they volunteered. There
is, of course, an almost comic side to some of these abrupt
reappearances from the field of glory. But, as a rule, they
only mean that particular individuals mistook their vocation
in adopting the role of armed insurgents, and have to slip
out of a false position as well as they can. Some volunteers
are slightly wounded, and are best out of the way. Others are
mere lads of sixteen and seventeen, who have bolted from
home to fight for freedom, and have completely broken down
in health on the bleak mountain side. Others again are old
campaigners, who have forgotten their age and stiffness, and
thought to run and climb as of yore, and have found that it
wiU not do. These are the most honourable and reasonable
of the returns to peaceful Hfe. Then there are some less
worthy homeward-bound travellers, who went forth without
any wish to fight, merely for what they could get in advance
from patriotic committees and the like. These men are far
better away, and their loss is not regretted by the insurgents
you may depend.
Last of all, I will mention a numerous class among those who
return — a class which can neither be much blamed nor com
pletely excused for its conduct. There are dozens of volunteers
' slipping away every week into Greece simply to obtain
, fresh supplies or fresh clothing, or to have a peep at their
friends, but always with an honest intention to go back and

566 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
fight it out. The want of food amongst the insurgents and
the scarcity of several kinds of ammunition required for the
rifles of various systems to be found in theH army quite
explain the difficulty of keeping a force together with the
precision of regular warfare. Certain chiefs in certain
districts make head against the Turks; all the country
sympathizes with them, and a great part of it gives them
active aid. The Turkish force is more or less blockaded in
the principal towns. It tries to shake off the insurgents by
attacking them here and there, to drive them further away.
Then there is a sharp skirmishing, and the Turks, whether
claiming the victory or not, return to theH strongholds with
loss.
This is how the insurrection goes forward, and this mode of
campaigning makes it matter very little if a few score of
Greek sympathizers disappear from the scene for any of the
reasons above mentioned. Some of them are better away,
some will presently return, and, meanwhUe, the insurrection
goes steadily forward, gaining ground slowly but surely in
one district after another. We should make a grave mistake
to suppose that the constant coming and going of individual
volunteers, or even of small detachments, shows the movement
to be either drawing to an end, or instantly about to succeed.
I have met many Greeks who were much discouraged at
seeing unwounded volunteers coming away from Thessaly,
and others who were just as much (and as unreasonably)
cheered by the sight of a handful of likely lads traveUing in
the opposite direction. The fact is that this insurrection is a
large and serious movement, though the fighting is on a small
scale at particular points, and that it may go struggling on
for several months without any such decisive results as we
have grown accustomed to in modern warfare. The Turks
cannot put down the insurrection without a vastly greater
force than they now possess in Thessaly, and the insurgents
cannot take the Turkish strongholds except by the wearisome
process of blockade.
As we steamed along the coast of Eubcea we saw a small
steamer crowded with men, said to be volunteers bound for
Macedonia. There were no Turkish cruisers to be seen in

WEAKNESS OF IRREGULAR TROOPS. 567
the offing, so it is very probable that the landing was safely
effected somewhere near Mount Olympus, where the little
blockade-runner should have arrived by sunset. I heard that
these volunteers were well armed, and well provided with
food for the first week or two of their campaign. They
would be able to make a long march through the mountains
without turning aside to procure supplies, and might arrive
in the very nick of time to help the Macedonian villages,
which are said to have lately risen. I was also informed, as
a matter of satisfaction and hope, that there was excellent
discipline among the band which passed us. It is very
important that this should be the case, for the great difficulty
in the way of all irregular warfare is the want of confidence
among the peasantry, which a want of discipline is sure to
produce. With help at hand from every village, and with all
the peasants on his side, an insurgent chief can do almost
anything, whilst without it his movements are paralyzed.
This is why the occupation of Thessaly by the Greek army
would have been so much easier a task than its conquest by
an insurrection, however well conducted. The Turks them
selves would have surrendered in masses to regular troops,
and every Christian peasant, far and near, would have hurried
to bring help, to the national uniform. I do not say that the
insurgents have behaved at all badly, quoad irregular troops.
They have been far more merciful to the Turks than these
latter have been to them, and are not, like their opponents,
stained with the blood of helpless women and children. But
no Hregular troops can inspire the confidence which regulars
would naturally obtain, and every step towards strict discipline
is a step towards making success more easy and possible.
The political part of the insurrection has been carefully
arranged, and that is a good thing, for H Europe should seek
to pacify the disturbed provinces, as she certainly will, unless
the Conference is to be a sham, there will be responsible
people with whom to deal, who will represent the insurgents.
In the steamer in which I travelled yesterday, I met two
members of the Provisional Government established in the
Pelion district, and they explained to me what efforts had
been made to bring all matters of civil administration into

568 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
a regular and legal form. Everything was to be done in
the name and by the authority of the Provisional Govern
ment, and no excesses or disorders were to be permitted.
These two Thessalians had got through the Turkish blockade
in a boat to the island of Skiattio, and had there taken
ship for the mainland of Greece.
On my way to Chalcis I had the opportunity of again visiting
Lamia, where the headquarters of General Soutzo are still
established. I found the Greek army just as impatient of
its enforced inaction, and just as steady in its mechanical
discipline, as when I passed through the town in the latter
part of February. The various accounts which have circu
lated in regard to the unsatisfactory state of the army
scarcely deserve to be contradicted, they are such utter
nonsense. The army is in capital condition, and could take
the field to-morrow with every chance of success against
any foe of its own strength — or a Httle stronger, my more
enthusiastic Greek friends would be sure to add.
But though quite efficient as a fighting machine, General
Soutzo's force is in somewhat low spirits, because of the
retreat from Thessaly. This is what is meant by its dis
couragement, and the like, of which we occasionally hear.
The wonder is, as I said in a former letter, that discipline
was so well maintained under the strain of the retreat, and
my object in recurring to the matter at present is to say that
there have been surprisingly few desertions to the insurgent
camp. From what I had heard before going north, I had
supposed that a wholesale flight from the regulars to the
irregulars had occurred, and that scores of King George's
soldiers had gone secretly into the neighbouring province.
This, however, is not so. A few men have deserted, but so
few that their presence with the insurgents does not form
even a minor feature of the struggle. The Greeks cannot be
praised for maintaining a very strict or benevolent neutrality
towards Turkey just now. That much theH friends must
admit. But the regular army has stuck very creditably to
its colours, with immense temptation to slip off and join the
fight raging so close at hand.

LORD DERBY AND THE GREEKS. 569
The subsequent history of the Greek rising belongs to a
period beyond the limits of the present volume. Up to the
present time, however, no event of primary importance has
marked the progress of the struggle. The most interesting
fact in connection with the affairs of the Hellenic Kingdom
is the recent suggestion of Lord Derby that Greece should
be represented at the Congress proposed to be held in Berlin
for the consideration of the clauses of the Peace Preliminaries.

CHAPTER XX.
THE SIGNING OF THE PRELIMINARIES OF PEACE.
Removal of General Ignatieff and the Russian Diplomatic Chancery to San
Stefano. — Fall of Server Pacha. — Results of the Appearance of the English
Fleet in the Sea of Marmora, — Tediousness of the Negotiations. — Delay of
the Turks. — Refusal of Mukhtar Pacha to abandon the Line of Kujuk
Tchekmejeh. — An Exciting Moment. — Peremptory Summons of the Grand
Duke. — Skobeleff's Opinion on the Situation. — Mukhtar Pacha Yields. — -
Description of San Stefano. — The Terms of Peace. — The Question of the
Straits. — Industrious Circulation of False Reports. — Turkish Vacillation. —
Sabdoullah Bey. — General Ignatieff losing Patience. — An Ultimatum. — The
Strip of Territory in Bessarabia. — Misunderstanding between Russia and
Roumania. — Sinister Rumours. — Standing on a Volcano — The House by the
Seaside. — The Labours of the Russian Secretaries. — The Treaty signed . — The
Grand Duke announces the Fact to the Army. — Enthusiasm of the Troops. —
The Two Armies Face to Face.— Review by the Grand Duke. — A Solemn
Service. — Imposing Scene. — The End of the War.
The letters comprised in the present chapter describe the
closing scenes of the history of the war between Russia and
Turkey. They explain the circumstances under which the
Russian headquarters were suddenly and unexpectedly removed
to San Stefano upon the Sea of Marmora, about twelve miles
only from Constantinople, where the peace preliminaries were
finally signed ; they also indicate the causes of the delay, which

570 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
were so long enveloped in mystery, and were so fruitful a
cause of distrust and apprehension with regard to the inten
tions of the Russian commanders.
t San Stefano, February 26th. — There has been a great change
in the situation since a week ago. Then, to all appearance,
Russia had not decided to accept the provocation offered her
by the British fleet coming here. The Russian troops were
still in the positions assigned to them in the armistice when
I passed through Tchataldja on Tuesday last. There was no
movement among the troops of Skobeleff's corps, or anywhere
else on the line. Upon arriving at Adrianople on Wednesday
I heard no talk of the speedy removal of headquarters, but
on Thursday there was a change. General Gourko suddenly
left Adrianople, his staff receiving only two hours' notice of
his departure. On Friday morning it was known that the
whole of the headquarters' staff, General Ignatieff, and the
Diplomatic Chancery, were to start next day for San
Stefano, and there was a forward movement of the Russian
troops.
This sudden change of plans was coincident with the news of
the fall of Server Pacha ; and it was this which seems to
have decided the movement, although it had evidently been
in contemplation before, as an answer to the coming of the
British fleet. I had thought that Russia would not accept
the provocation because, after all, it was a very harmless one.
Russia has judged otherwise. The coming of the fleet was
the first step in the slippery descent which leads to war ; the
coming of the Russians to San Stefano the second. Both
moves were equally unwise and unnecessary. Now it only
remains for the fleet to come to the Bosphorus, the answer
to which wiU be a Russian army occupying the heights of
Buyukdere, when the forces of England and Russia will be
within gunshot of each other. If the fleet moves again nearer
Constantinople, the situation will become most dangerous,
and war can hardly be avoided.
The fact is, General Ignatieff is very glad of a good pretext for
getting nearer Constantinople. The negotiations had been
going on slowly, although Saf vet Pacha was supposed to have

THE LAST STRAW. 571
full powers to treat. He, in fact, continually refused to accept
point after point without orders from Constantinople, and
telegraphic communication was constantly mysteriously in
terrupted. He was three or four days getting an answer. It
was the same with the telegrams to General Ignatieff. They
were four or five days en route. General Ignatieff here
received telegrams sent to Adrianople four days before.
Then Safvet Pacha was taken ill, and it was with the greatest
difficulty General Ignatieff could get him to go on with the
work. He wanted from the first to await the arrival of
Sabdoullah Bey from Berlin. He had completely forgotten
the whole programme of the Conference last winter, and had
to be continually referred to it. Again, he did not know the
lines of delimitation agreed upon in the Armistice, and had
no map. He had to accept whatever the Russians told him
on this head. One day he complained to General Ignatieff
of the depredations of the Circassians in some village south
of Sofia, and asked if the Russians could not stop it.
General Ignatieff showed him that this village was on the
Turkish side of the neutral ground, and therefore it was the
business of the Turks to keep order, but offered to send
Russian troops there if he wished to punish the Circassians.
Under such circumstances it was most difficult to push the
negotiations rapidly. General Ignatieff said the end of it
would be that he would have to deliver an ultimatum in
order to get peace signed.
It is impossible to say whether these delays were caused by the
natural and ordinary unreadiness of the Turks, or by a wish
to gain time. General Ignatieff thinks that the knowledge of
the Conference had much to do with it. They think the
peace signed now will not be final and conclusive, and this
makes them hesitate. Then came news of the fall of Server
Pacha, and Safvet said that the negotiations must be suspended
until further orders.
This was the last straw on the camel's back. It was imme
diately decided to go to San Stefano, the consent of the
Turks to that step having been previously obtained. The
Turks agreed to abandon the last line of defence, Kujuk
Chekmejeh ; but if the fleet had not appeared in the Straits,

572 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
General Ignatieff would have undoubtedly been obliged to
find some other solution of the difficulty. That gave him the
very pretext he wanted.
I left Adrianople on Saturday morning with the headquarters' ,
staff. It was a beautiful day. Everybody was in the best
spirits, delighted at the exchange of the muddy streets of
Adrianople for the pretty village of San Stefano, on the
shores of the Sea of Marmora.
Our gaiety seemed almost misplaced, considering the gravity
of the step we were taking. We arrived at Tchataldja about
six in the evening. Here General Skobeleff's corps and part
of the Guards were drawn up to receive the Grand Duke. !
He reviewed them, and found the troops, having had a rest,
in excellent condition ; but when on the point of continuing
the journey, he was accosted by Tahir Bey, the Turkish
officer appointed for regulating the lines of delimitation, who
for some days had been at Skobeleff's headquarters. Tahir
said that Mukhtar Pacha had no orders to withdraw his
troops from Kujuk Chekmejeh. He could not, therefore,
allow the Russian troops to occupy these positions, nor
to go to San Stefano.
This was news indeed, and of the most serious nature. The
Turks were refusing to do what they had agreed upon, and
were stopping the Grand Duke after allowing him to come as
far as Tchataldja. Had the Turks held out there could have '
been only one result — the assault of the Turkish positions
next morning at daybreak.
The moment was an exciting one, and for a couple of hours we
seemed again on the brink of war. The telegraph was set
going, but nothing seemed to come of it, for finally the
Grand Duke grew very angry and indignant. He thought
he was being trifled with. The spirit of his father rose
within him, and as he walked up, his resemblance to the
Emperor Nicholas just then was striking, and it was still
more evident when he called TahH Bey, and said to him,
with an energy that made the latter tremble, —
" Go, and tell Mukhtar Pacha that when I give an order he
must obey it, and at once, or it will be the worse for him.
Go."

MUKHTAR PACHA YIELDS. 573
There was a dead silence for a moment. Everybody felt the
gravity of the situation. Tahir withdrew precipitately,
sprang upon a locomotive, and in a moment was flying
through the darkness down over the line to Kujuk Chek
mejeh as fast as steam could carry him. It was now known
by all the officers present that unless the Turks abandoned
the positions instantly they would be attacked at daylight.
The situation was considered very critical. Peace was
trembling in the balance, and yet there is not the slighest
desire expressed at headquarters for the continuance of the
war under any cHcumstances whatever.
Mr. Gladstone seems to fear the danger of the army escaping
from the control of cooler heads at St. Petersburg. There
is not the slightest danger of this. There has not been a
move without orders. The aversion of the Grand Duke for
the continuation of the war was shown in a somewhat
amusing way. While waiting for the result of Tahir's
mission, the question of what was going to happen was
criticized in an animated manner. The Grand Duke, who
was excited and indignant at the situation, asked Skobeleff,
it is said, what he thought of it. The latter, with the reck
less indifference which characterizes him, replied,
" For my part, Monseigneur, I think we shaH have to fight
England."
" Oh, but you are a madman," exclaimed the Grand Duke in a
half-angry manner, turning from him, and spitting as every
Russian peasant spits when anything displeases him. It is
the highest expression of displeasure or anger.
Finally, after two hours, news came that the positions were
being evacuated by Mukhtar, and that the Russians were
marching in. At midnight the train was again in motion,
and at two o'clock on Sunday morning the Grand Duke was in
San Stefano. The line Kujuk Chekmejeh was abandoned
completely by Mukhtar, who is now behind the little creek
that empties itseH into the Marmora, half-way between San
Stefano and Jedi Kuleh.
This is the most tangible result of the coming of the fleet so
far.
The Russians are delighted with the pretty Httle place. San

574 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
Stefano is very clean and bright, after much of Bulgaria.
The weather is deHcious, and the quay and seashore present
a very animated appearance lined with officers in brilliant
unHorms, ladies, and the population walking up and down,
listening to the music that is played all day long. It is very
pleasant to watch the glimmer of the sunshine over the Sea
of Marmora, with Mount Olympus in the misty distance..
Numerous boats and caiques give animation to the scene
close at hand, and picturesque groups of Cossacks bathing
their horses are continually seen. General Ignatieff inhabits
a pretty villa, whose walls are washed by the waves, and
from the windows of which the minarets of Saint Sofia are
plainly visible. It is here that peace is to be signed.
As regards the progress of the negotiations, I can only say that
General Ignatieff told me just before leaving Adrianople that
no point had been touched upon but questions relating to
Bulgaria, and that little progress had been made even in the
arrangement of the frontiers. I may remark that all
accounts of the conditions of peace published in various
journals are more or less fantastical, except those given out
officially by the Russian general. The outlines are well
known, and the details are not yet arranged. It is not true
that there are any secret conditions, or any secret treaty.
The conditions of peace could not be kept secret, because
they are of such a nature as cannot be carried out without
being known. As regards the secret treaty, secrecy in
diplomacy is one of the things of the past. No diplomatic
secret can be kept long. The whole thing would be known a
week after it was arranged. Besides, Russia can obtain
nothing by a secret treaty which she cannot better obtain
without. A moment's reflection will convince everybody of
this.
The only question that could be arranged by a secret treaty
is the question of the Straits. Now General Ignatieff
authorizes me to state again, as I informed you nearly two
months ago, that Russia did not wish the existing treaty
changed with regard to the Straits, whether by agreement
with the Turks or by an European Conference. She prefers ,
to adhere to the Treaty of Paris. The only thing General

SAN STEFANO. 575
Ignatieff proposes to do is to stipulate with the Turks for
the removal of obstructions, and to arrange regulations with
the Porte with regard to the passage of merchant ships.
Vessels of all nations are to be allowed to pass by night as
well as by day, and in time of war as well as peace, and
various abuses and restrictions invented by the Turks, but not
authorized by the Treaty, are to be abolished ; but Russia
does not mean to touch any regulation relating to the passage
of men-of-war.
This question may therefore be considered settled ; and as the
Russians do not even yet propose to actually occupy Constan
tinople, and wish to withdraw their troops as soon as possible,
I can see no reasonable cause for war. This is, it is true,
leaving little to be done by a European Conference, as it is
difficult to see what other questions can come within its
province.
t San Stefano, March 1st. — A certain portion of the Press
seems resolved, with the connivance of the Turks, to publish
false or exaggerated versions of the conditions of peace, with
the view of exciting public opinion on the subject. Although
both sides are pledged to secrecy, the Turks give certain
journaUsts conditions, which the Russians say are false,
notably those relating to the fleet, the amount of the war in
demnity, and the arrangements for payment. General Ignatieff
denies having made any proposals relating to the cession of
the fleet as yet, and he has not mentioned any figure for the
war indemnity. The negotiations have hitherto turned en
tirely on the question of Bulgaria, which is the great obstacle
in the way of an arrangement. It would appear that once
this question is settled, the rest will be easy. General
Ignatieff showed the conditions of peace published in the
Levant Herald yesterday to Safvet Pacha, and said :
" Your friends are very kind. We did not know what sum to
fix for the indemnity, but the figures which you publish semi
officially, without any authority from us, must represent the
sum which you think you are able to pay. I had not thought
of putting the figure so high, but since you mention it I thank
you for the hint."

576 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
The Turkish Ambassadors disclaimed all knowledge of the con-
ditions published, said they had not been obtained from them,
and begged General Ignatieff not to think of using those
figures as bases for discussion. The conduct of the Turks
hitherto has been of the most childish character. They con
tinually lament their hard fate in being obliged to make such
a peace, and offer fooHsh and unheard of objections to every
condition proposed. When General Ignatieff, to induce
Safvet Pacha to hurry the negotiations, told him that the
Russian military expenses were now two million roubles
daily, and that for every day's delay this sum would
have to be added to the war indemnity, he exclaimed : —
" But this sum is enormous ! Why do you spend so much on
your army ? We do not spend a tenth of this sum on
ours. You pay your officers too much. Your army is
too expensive ; and it is not right we should pay for it."
Then they object to Rasgrad being included in Bulgaria, be
cause it is a Mussulman town, although in the middle
of a Christian country. General Ignatieff could only
reply :—
" If you will pick up Rasgrad, and carry it bodily out of the
country, we shall be glad to get rid of it ; but we cannot
allow it to remain under Turkish rule as long as it is where it
is."
Then they are continuaUy going back to the condition of things
before the war. They have the coolness to deny that there
were ever any massacres in Bulgaria, and maintain that Edib
Effendi's famous report, which Mr. Schuyler and Mr. Baring
called a tissue of falsehoods, is quite correct and truthful.
This shows how incorrigible the Turks are. Even, now after
all the disasters brought upon themselves, they still cling to
the old story, and refuse to see that there was any cause for
complaint or any necessity for reform.
If General Ignatieff were contented to go back over the old
ground and discuss these questions which have been settled
long ago, the peace negotiations might last a year. He is con
tinually obliged to recall them to the subject in hand, and pin
them down to it. Since the fall of Server Pacha this dis
position to delay the negotiations has been very marked.

TURKISH VACILLATION. 577
Server Pacha, who is a practical man, was disposed to accept
accomplished facts. The present ambassadors are not, and,
either through unreadiness or design, are delaying the negotia
tions as much as possible. Even Sabdoullah Bey, who has
arrived from Berlin, and who has the reputation of being an
intelligent man, shows himself no better in this respect. He
was continuaUy referring to what he did on the Commission
at Philippopolis for the trial of Achmet Aga and others, until
General Ignatieff told him he ought to be ashamed to re
member he had ever been on this Commission which was
a shame and a disgrace, and that if he and his Commission
had done their duty and punished the murderers the war
might have been avoided, and they would not be treating for
peace to-day with the Russian army in sight of Constantin
ople. When asked what he would do if the Turks continued
this plan of action much longer, General Ignatieff replied,
"Well, we shall end by losing patience."
This probably means that he thinks the discussion has gone on
long enough. He will probably state the final conditions of
peace in the form of an ultimatum, and give the Porte two or
three days in which to accept them under penalty of the
Russian army marching into the capital. I may remark that
I have every reason to believe that General Ignatieff did
something of the kind yesterday, for it was expected the
negotiations would take a decisive turn one way or the other.
General Ignatieff informed the Turks that although disposed
to yield on many questions of details, he must have a positive
answer as to whether they meant to accept or not before losing
any more time.
The conference closed yesterday at six, and the Turks promised
a final answer to-day. There was every probability the
answer would be favourable to peace, but the negotiations
may still continue for some days. The Turks have proposed
• that Bulgaria should accept part of the Turkish debt; but
General Ignatieff answered that this would necessitate the
independence of Bulgaria, as a new province could not be
expected to pay tribute and debt both. The tribute will be
as much as the Bulgarians can be expected to pay ; but if
the Turks are willing to grant independence to Bulgaria then

578 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
the Bulgarians would take a share of the debt. The Turkish
ambassadors did not accept the idea of independence at all,
although as regards all that the tribute is likely to profit
them, they might just as well, for this tribute will un
doubtedly go towards the payment of the Russian war in
demnity.
The misunderstanding between Russia and Roumania seems
growing more and more decided regarding the strip of Bess-
arabian territory. The Emperor scarcely means to give it
up, nor could he do so without causing much discontent in
Russia. Every Russian looks upon this bit of swamp as
Russian, not Roumanian, soil, and wants it back. It has not
been long enough in the possession of Roumania for the
Russians to have lost this idea. The Roumanians object to
relinquishing it because they say the people are Roumanians,
and it is a question of race and national existence for them.
They aspire to the national unity of all Roumanians. They
cannot consent to violate the great principle of their national
existence. TheH hope that Austria will take sides with them
is, however, ill-founded. It is well known that Roumania
hopes at some future day to have Transylvania and other
Austrian provinces where Roumanian is spoken. It is not
likely, therefore, that Austria will encourage Roumanian
national aspirations, or care much about a violation of
principle. It is a question of principle with the Roumanians,
and if only a question of amour propre with the Russians
the Emperor would do well to be magnanimous.
The following letter, the joint work of two correspondents,
who have contributed to this volume narratives of some of
the most striking episodes in the war, brings the history of the
struggle between Russia and Turkey to a close, with the de
scription of a scene no less picturesque and romantic than im
portant for its historical interest.
-f t Constantinople, March 5th. — For several days past the
signing of the Treaty of Peace had been momentarily ex
pected, and the public feeling, harassed by the tedious delay

STANDING ON A VOLCANO. 579
of the much desired event, became more and more impression
able, as day followed day and reports of the conclusion of
peace succeeded rumours of a general European war. The
statements of the demands of Russia were followed by stories
of suspicious movements of the fleet, and even of the landing
of British troops on Turkish ground.
For days it had seemed as if we were standing, on a volcano.
Large patrols of soldiers paced the streets, confessedly to
guard against an expected popular movement, although the
quiet was perfect and no disturbance occurred. The hush
was almost ominous in its completeness. The smallest hints
or rumours spread everywhere like lightning, and the situa
tion was discussed earnestly and in undertones on all sides.
Such was the anxiety of the alarmists that their distorted
vision made them discover in the white tents of the Turkish
army on the distant hills north of the city the camp of the
Russians drawing insidiously nearer the city gates. Every
steamer to San Stefano was crowded. Every newspaper
found impatient readers.
We had been having delightful, spring-like summer weather
until Saturday evening, when the clear sky became clouded,
and it was evident that a storm was brewing. " Now," said
the superstitious, " this sudden change means a change in the
peaceful aspect of the political horizon, and to-morrow we
shall find ourselves in the new war." But as the storm was
gathering that night, the last threatening war clouds dis
persed and disappeared, and the bright dawn of peace was
near at hand.
In a house by the seaside at San Stefano, shaken by the
increasing gale that tore across the Sea of Marmora, were
busy, all night long, the secretaries of both diplomatic bodies
copying and arranging for the signatures the Treaty of Peace,
the result of the now concluded negotiations. All night long
Prince Tzereteleff dictated the treaty to his colleague, Che-
bachoff, who wrote and wrote through the long hours until
the document was finished. Although wearied by continuous
labour, these two secretaries, appreciating the value of their
work, kept at their task, only stopping for refreshment and
to listen to the scratch of the reeds of the Turkish secretaries
p p 2

580 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
in an adjoining room, busy with their own copy, until the
dull dawn found them still at the table. Then, the last
word being on paper, they slept amid the confusion of
documents, maps, and volumes, as a soldier sleeps in his
harness.
Scarcely was it daylight when, notwithstanding the storm,
there was an unusual movement in the village. There was a
general idea that peace was to be signed that day. The
steamers from Constantinople came rolling along through the
rough sea, overladen with excursionists attracted by the
review which had been announced to take place in celebra
tion of the anniversary of the Czar's accession to the throne.
Greeks, Bulgarians, Turks, and Russians crowded the little
village, besieging the restaurants, swarming about the doors
of houses whence were supposed to issue some of the great
personages who were to become famous in history, all im
patiently awaiting the hour of two, the appointed time of
the review. The horses of the Grand Duke and his staff
were gathered about the entrance to his quarters, and keen-
eyed spectators ready to interpret the slightest movement of
the Commander-in-Chief formed unbroken ranks around the
group of horses in the street.
One o'clock passed. Two o'clock passed, and still no movement.
People began to grow serious, began to feel that something
was in the air, were sure that this was the decisive moment,
that peace and war were trembling in the scale, and one said
to the other solemnly, " This is an event in history," and each
believed himself an actor in the scene, such was the impres-
siveness of the hour. At length word was given out that
the review was postponed until three o'clock, but that hour
came and went, and brought only another postponement for
an hour. Later, rain fell, but the people remained at their
posts.
At last their patience was rewarded. About four o'clock the
Grand Duke mounted, and rode to the Diplomatic Chancery,
where he asked at the door. "Is it ready?" and then galloped
towards the hill where the army was drawn up. Here we
halted again for a few moments, wondering what would
happen next. Finally, a carriage came whirling out of the

SIGNATURE OF THE PEACE PRELIMINARIES. 581
village towards us. General Ignatieff was in it, and when he
approached he rose and said : —
" I have the honour to congratulate your Highness on the
signature of peace."
There was a long loud shout. Then the Grand Duke, followed
by about a hundred officers, dashed forward to where the
troops were formed on rising ground close by the sea coast,
just behind San Stefano lighthouse, and began riding along
the lines. As he passed, the soldiers did not know that peace
had been signed, as it was stUl unannounced ; but soon the
news spread, and the cheering grew louder and more en
thusiastic. There wrere Schouvaloff's and Rauch's divisions,
with the sharpshooters of the Guard, and cavalry and
artillery in line, and the Grand Duke passed between the
ranks in review. Very different, indeed, was the appearance
of these soldiers now and that of the same men months ago.
During their interval of rest they had patched and cleaned
theH clothes, repaired and polished their boots, wrashed and
brushed up generally, so that they looked as trim and neat as
, could be.
After riding between the lines the Grand Duke halted on a
little eminence, whence all the troops could be seen, and
formally made the announcement of the peace : —
I have the honour to inform the army that, with the help of
God, we have concluded a Treaty of Peace."
Then another shout burst forth from 20,000 throats, rising,
swelling, and dying away. There was a general feeling of
relief and satisfaction. I must say, however, that the news
of peace was not greeted with anything like the wild excite
ment and enthusiasm caused by the Emperor's proclamation
of war at Kischeneff last April. There stood the famous
regiment of Peter the Great, the Praobrajensky, often the
first to attack in many of the late battles of the war. There
were the troops who had faced the enemy on the bleak
summits of the Balkans at Araba-Konak for a long, cold, and
terrible month. There were the men who had toiled over
the slippery mountain paths, scantily fed, thinly dressed,
dragging the heavy guns across into the valley, finding,
after theH struggles with cold, hunger, and fatigue, a dcspe-

582 WAR CORRESPONDENCE.
rate enemy ready to resist them on every hill-top. These
were the same brave fellows who had made the long march
from Sofia to Philippopolis, who had run that race for enor
mous stakes with Suleiman's army, and finally thrown their
great force against the wall of the Rhodope mountains, and
smashed it to pieces. These were the men whose courage,
devotion, and unparalleled endurance will go down to history.
And there, gathered scarcely more than a rifle-shot away, was
the enemy they had found worthy of . their steel. For on the
crest of the neighbouring hill stood the Turks in groups,
interested spectators of the scene; these very fellows who
had kept the snowy ridge of Shandamik, defending gallantly
the great gate of Roumelia, and who at last, after a memorable
retreat, had fought like heroes on the hiUs of Stanimaka.
These two armies stood looking at each other at this moment
of final peace ; like true soldiers they had learned to respect
and esteem each other, and welcomed peace as an honourable
finish to the fight which they cared not to prolong. It was the
beginning of a new friendship formed on the basis of actual
experience of qualities that had hitherto been unrecognized.
After the review, gathering his officers about him where the
priest stood ready for the Te Deum, the Grand Duke spoke
briefly and emphatically, saying : —
'' To an army which has accompHshed what you have, my
friends, nothing is impossible."
Then all dismounted, uncovered, and a solemn service was
conducted, the soldiers all kneeling. A few ladies were pre
sent at this ceremony. Among others I noticed Madame
Ignatieff, kneeling on a fur rug beside her carriage.
All the generals except Skobeleff were in attendance. He was
back in Tchataldja. Baron Loenhausen and Captain BoUa,
the Austrian Military Attaches, the former wearing the Cross
of St. Vladimir, received for coolness under fire, the latter
with the St. George, for acting as Skobeleff's aide-de-camp, on
the day he took the redoubts on the Loftcha road ; Colonel
Gaillard, the French Attache, who has been with the Grand
Duke ever since the armv was mobilized, eighteen months
ago, decorated with the St. Vladimir around his neck ; Major
Leignitz, the Prussian Attache, with the St. George, for

THE FINAL SCENE. , 583
services at the Grivica redoubt ; Lieutenant Green, the
American Attache, wearing the St. Vladimir for the last
Balkan campaign ; and, finally, the two Swiss Attaches, who
had arrived just in time for the Te Deum. These officers,
with a few correspondents who had followed the army, were
the foreign witnesses of the closing scene. Of the correspon
dents who, eighty strong, joined the headquarters at Ploesti,
only five now remain with the army.
Never has a peace been celebrated under more dramatic and
picturesque conditions, or with more impressive surroundings.
The two armies face to face, the clearing storm, the waning
light of day, the rush of the wind, and the near wash of the
wave mingling with the chant of the priests and the responses
of the soldiers and the roar of the Sea of Marmora swelling
and faUing. The landscape, always of great beauty, now
formed a wonderfully appropriate background to the picture.
Across the fretting chafing waters of the sea, the dome and
slender minarets of St. Sofia came up sharply against the
sky, the dominant points in the interesting silhouette of
distant Stamboul. Away to the south, the Prince's Islands
rose like great mounds, dark and massive, against the distant
Asiatic shore, and behind them we knew was hidden the
English fleet. Above and far beyond, the white peak of
Mount Olympus unveiled for the moment its majestic
summit as the rays of the ruddy sunset were reflected from
the snow-covered flanks.
The religious ceremony over, the Grand Duke took his stand, and
the army began to file past with a swinging rapid stride, in
forcible contrast with the weary pace with which they used to
drag themselves slowly along at the end of that long and
exhausting chase, scarcely at times able to put one foot before
the other. The night was falling, and darkness settled quickly
over the scene. When we left the spot the Grand Duke was still
sitting immovable on his horse, and the troops were still pass
ing. As we rode down into the village, we could hear the
joyful shouts still ringing in the air, and the measured tramp,
tramp going off in the darkness.
So ends the war of 1877-78.

APPENDIX.

The text of the Preliminaries of Peace was telegraphed in
extenso from St. Petersburgh by the Correspondent of the
Daily News, and was published in that journal on the morning
following the date of its appearance in the Russian official
organ. Subjoined is a complete translation : —

PRELIMINARIES OF PEACE.
His Majesty the Emperor of Russia and his Majesty the
Emperor of the Ottomans, inspired with the wish of restoring
and securing the blessings of peace to their countries and
people, as well as of preventing any fresh complication which
might imperil the same, have named as their plenipotentiaries,
with a view to draw up, conclude, and sign the Preliminaries
of Peace : —
His Majesty the Emperor of Russia on the one side, the
Count Nicholas Ignatiew, Aide-de-Camp General of his Impe
rial Majesty, Lieutenant- General, Member of the Council of
the EmpHe, decorated with the Order of St. Alexander Newsky
in diamonds, and with various other Russian and foreign Orders,
and Sieur Alexander Nelidow, Chamberlain of the Imperial
Court, Conseiller d'Etat actuel, decorated with the Order of
St. Anne of the first class, with swords, and with various other
Russian and foreign Orders ;
And His Majesty the Emperor of the Ottomans on the other
side, Safvet Pasha, Minister for Foreign Affairs, decorated with
the Order of the Osmanie in brilliants, with that of the Med-
jidie of the first class, and with various foreign Orders, and
Sadoullah Bey, His Majesty's Ambassador at the Imperial
Court of Germany, decorated with the Order of the Medjidie
of the first class, with that of the Osmanie of the second class,
and with various other foreign Orders ;
Who, after having exchanged their full powers, which were
found to be in good and proper form, have agreed to the follow
ing Articles : —

586 APPENDIX.
Article I.
In order to put an end to the perpetual conflicts between
Turkey and Montenegro, the frontier which separates the two
countries will be rectified conformably to the map hereto
annexed, subject to the reserve hereinafter mentioned, in the
following manner : — ¦
From the mountain of Dobrostitza the frontier will follow
the line indicated by the Conference of Constantinople as far
as Korito by Bilek. Thence the new frontier will run to
Gatzko (Metochia-Gatzko will belong to Montenegro), and
towards the confluence of the Piva and the Tara, ascending
towards the north by the Drina as far as its confluence with
the Lim. The eastern frontier of the Principality will foUow
this last river as far as Prijepolje, and wUl proceed by Roshaj
to Sukha-Planina (leaving Bihor and Roshaj to Montenegro).
Taking in Bugovo, Plava, and Gnsinje, the frontier line will
follow the chain of mountains by Snlieb, Paklen, and along
the northern frontier of Albania by the crests of the Mountains
Koprivnik, Babavik, Bor-vik, to the highest peak of Prokleti.
From that point the frontier wiU proceed by the summit of
Biskaschik, and will run in a straight line to the Lake of
Tjiceni-hoti. Dividing Tjiceni-hoti and Tjiceni-kastrati, it will
cross the Lake of Scutari to the Boyana, the thalweg of
which it will follow as far as the sea. Nichsich, Gatzko,
Spouje, Podgoritza, Jabliak, and Antivari will remain to
Montenegro. A European Commission, on which the Sublime Porte and
the Government of Montenegro shall be represented, wdl be
charged with fixing the definite limits of the Principality,
making on the spot such modifications in the general tracing as
it may think necessary and equitable, from the point of view
of the respective interests and tranquillity of the two countries,
to which it will accord in this respect the equivalents deemed
necessary. The navigation of the Boyana having always giving rise to
disputes between the Sublime Porte and Montenegro, wdl be
the subject of a special regulation, which will be prepared by
the same European Cornmmission. Article II.
The Sublime Porte recognizes definitively the independence of
the Principality of Montenegro.
An understanding between the Imperial Government of
Russia, the Ottoman Government, and the Principality of

APPENDIX. 587
Montenegro will determine subsequently the character and
form of the relations between the Sublime Porte and the
Principality as regards particularly the establishment of Monte
negrin Agents at Constantinople, and in certain localities of the
Ottoman Empire, where the necessity for such Agents shall be
recognized, the extradition of fugitive criminals on the one
territory or the other, and the subjection of Montenegrins
travelling or sojourning in the Ottoman Empire to the
Ottoman laws and authorities, according to the principles of
international law and the established usages concerning the
Montenegrins. A Convention will be concluded between the Sublime Porte
and Montenegro to regulate the questions connected with the
relations between the inhabitants of the confines of the two
countries and with the mUitary works on the same confines.
The points upon which an understanding cannot be established
will be settled by the arbitration of Russia and Austria-
Hungary. Henceforward, H there is any discussion or conflict, except
as regards new territorial demands, Turkey and Montenegro
will leave the settlement of their differences to Russia and
Austria-Hungary, who will arbitrate in common.
The troops of Montenegro will be bound to evacuate the ter
ritory not comprised within the limits indicated above within
ten days from the signature of the Preliminaries of Peace.
Article III.
Servia is recognized as independent. Its frontier, marked on
the annexed map, wUl follow the thalweg of the Drina, leaving
Little Zwornik and Zakar to the Principality, and following
the old limit as far as the sources of the stream Dezevo, near
Stoilac. Thence the new line will foUow the course of that
stream as far as the River Raska, and then the course of the
latter as far as Novi-Bazar.
From Novi-Bazar, ascending the stream which passes near
the villages of Mekinje and Irgoviste as far as its source, the
frontier Hne will run by Bosur Planina, in the valley of the
Ibar, and will then descend the stream which falls into this
river near the village of Ribanic.
The line will then follow the course of the Rivers Ibar,
Sitnitza, and Lab, and of the brook Batintze to its source (upon
the Grapachnitza Planina). Thence the frontier will follow
the heights which separate the waters of the Kriva and the
Veternitza, and will meet the latter river by the shortest route

588 APPENDIX;
at the mouth of the stream Miovatzka, which it will ascend,
crossing the Miovatzka Planina and redescending towards the
Morava, near the village of Kalimanci.
From this point the frontier will descend the Morava as far as
the River Vlossina, near the village of Staikovtzi. Reascend-
ing the latter river, as well as the Linberazda, and the brook
Koukavitze, the line will pass by the Sukha Planina, will run
along the stream Vrylo as far as the Nisawa, and will
descend the said river as far as the village of Kronpatz,
whence the line will rejoin by the shortest route the old Servian
frontier to the south-east of Karaoul Bare, and wUl not leave
it until it reaches the Danube.
Ada-Kale will be evacuated and razed.
A Turco-Servian Commission, assisted by a Russian Com
missioner, will, within three months, arrange upon the spot the
definite frontier line, and wUl definitively settle the questions
relating to the islands of the Drina. A Bulgarian delegate
will be admitted to participate in the work of the Commis
sion when it shall be engaged on the frontier between Servia
and Bulgaria. Article TV.
The Mussulmans holding lands in the teritories annexed to
Servia, and who wish to reside out of the Principality, can
preserve their real property by having them farmed out or
administered by others. A Turco-Servian Commission, assisted
by a Russian Commissioner, will be charged to decide abso
lutely, in the course of two years, all questions relating to the
verification of real estate in which Mussulman interests are
concerned. This Commission will also be called upon to settle within
three years the method of alienation of State property and of
religious endowments (vacouf), as well as the questions relative
to the interests of private persons which may be involved.
Until a direct Treaty is concluded between Turkey and Servia
determining the character of the relations between the Sublime
Porte and the Principality, Servian subjects travelling or
sojourning in the Ottoman Empire shall be treated according to
the general principles of international law.
The Servian troops shall be bound to evacuate the territory
not comprised within the above-mentioned limits within fifteen
days from the signature of the Preliminaries of Peace.

APPENDIX. 589
Article V.
The Sublime Porte recognizes the independence of Rou
mania, which will establish its right to an indemnity, to be
discussed between the two countries.
UntU the conclusion of a direct Treaty between Turkey and
Roumania, Roumanian subjects will enjoy in Turkey all the
rights guaranteed to the subjects of other European Powers.
Article VI.
Bulgaria is constituted an autonomous tributary Principality,
with a Christian Government and a national militia.
The definitive frontiers of the Bulgarian Principality will be
traced by a special Russo-Turkish Commission before the
evacuation of Roumelia by the Imperial Russian army.
This Commission will, in working out the modifications to be
made on the spot in the general tracing, take into account the
principle of the nationality of the majority of the inhabitants
of the border districts, conformably to the Bases of Peace, and
also the topographical necessities and practical interests of the
intercommunication of the local population.
The extent of the Bulgarian Principality is laid down in
general terms on the accompanying map, which will serve as a
basis for the definitive fixing of the limits. Leaving the new
frontier of the Servian Principality, the line will follow the
western limit of the Caza of Wrania as far as the chain of the
Kara-dagh. Turning towards the west, the line will follow the
western limits of the Cazas of Koumanovo, Kotchani, Kalkan-
delen, to Mount Korab ; thence by the River Welestchitza as
far as its junction with the black Drina. Turning towards the
south by the Drina and afterwards by the western limit of the
Caza of Ochride towards Mount Linas, the frontier will follow
the western limits of the Cazas of Gortcha and Starovo as far
as Mount Grammos. Then by the Lake of Kastoria, the fron
tier line will rejoin the River Moglenitza, and after having
followed its course, and passed to the south of Yanitza (Wardar
Xenidje), will go by the mouth of the Warder and by the
Galliko towards the villages of Parga and of Sarai-keui ;
thence through the middle of Lake Bechik-Guel to the mouth
of the Rivers Strouma and Karassou, and by the sea-coast as
as far as Buru-Guel ; thence striking north-west towards Mount
Tchaltepe by the chain of Rhodope as far as Mount Krous-
chowo, by the Black Balkans (Kara-Balkan), by the moun
tains Eschek-konlatchi, Tchepelion, Karakolas, and Tschiklar,
as far as the River Arda.

590 APPENDIX.
Thence the line will be traced in the direction of the town
of Tchirmen, and leaving the town of Adrianople to the south,
by the villages of Sugutlion, Kara-Hamza, Arnaout-keui,.
Akardji, and Enidje as far as the River Tekederessi. Following
the Rivers Tekederessi and Tchorlouderessi as far as Loule-
Bourgaz, and thence, by the River Soudjak-dere as far as the
village of Serguen, the frontier line will go by the heights
straight towards Hakim-tabiassi, where it will strike the Black
Sea. It will leave the sea-coast near Mangalia, following the
southern boundaries of the Sandjak of Toultcha, and will come
out on the Danube above Rassova.
Article VII.
The Prince of Bulgaria shall be freely elected by the popu
lation and confirmed by the Sublime Porte, with the assent of
the Powers. No member of the reigning dynasties of the
great European Powers shall be capable of being elected Prince
of Bulgaria.
In the event of the dignity of Prince of Bulgaria being
vacant, the election of the new Prince shall be made subject to
the same conditions and forms.
Before the election of the Prince, an Assembly of Bulgarian
Notables, to be convoked at Philippopolis (Plowdiw) or Tyr-
nowo, shall draw up, under the superintendence of an Imperial
Russian Commissioner, and in the, presence of an Ottoman
Commissioner, the organization of the future administration, in
conformity with the precedents established in 1830 after the
Peace of Adrianople, in the Danubian Principalities.
In the localities where Bulgarians are mixed with Turks,
Greeks, Wallachians (Koutzo-Vlachs), or others, proper account
is to be taken of the rights and interests of these populations
in the elections and in the preparation of the Organic Laws.
The introduction of the new system into Bulgaria, and the
superintendence of its working, will be entrusted for two years
to an Imperial Russian Commissioner. At the expHation of
the first year after the introduction of the new system, and if
an understanding on this subject has been established between
Russia, the Sublime Porte, and the Cabinets of Europe, they
can, if it is deemed necessary, associate Special Delegates with
the Imperial Russian Commissioner. Article VIII.
The Ottoman army will no longer remain in Bulgaria, and all
the ancient fortresses will be razed at the expense of the local

appendix. 591
Government. The Sublime Porte will have the right to dispose,
as it sees fit, of the war material and of the other property
belonging to the Ottoman Government which may have been
left in the Danubian fortresses already evacuated in accordance
with the terms of the Armistice of the 3?'? January, as well as
of that in the strongholds of Schoumla and Varna.
Until the complete formation of a native militia sufficient to
preserve order, security, and tranquillity, and the strength of
which will be fixed later on by an understanding between the
Ottoman Government and the Imperial Russian Cabinet,
Russian troops will occupy the country, and will give armed
assistance to the Commissioner in case of need. This occupation
will also be limited to a term approximating to two years.
The strength of the Russian army of occupation, to be com
posed of six divisions of infantry and two of cavalry, which
will remain in Bulgaria after the evacuation of Turkey by the
Imperial army, shall not exceed 50,000 men. It will be main
tained at the expense of the country occupied. The Russian
troops of occupation in Bulgaria will maintain their communi
cations with Russia, not only through Roumania, but also by
the ports of the Black Sea, Varna and Bourgas, where they
may organize, for the term of the occupation, the necessary
depots. Article IX.
The amount of the annual tribute which Bulgaria is to pay
the Suzerain Court, by transmitting it to a bank to be hereafter
named by the Sublime Porte, will be determined by an agree
ment between Russia, the Ottoman Government, and the other
Cabinets, at the end of the first year during which the new
organization shall be in operation. This tribute will be calcu
lated on the average revenue of all the territory which is to
form part of the Principality.
Bulgaria will take upon itself the obligations of the Imperial
Ottoman Government towards the Rustchuk and Varna Rail
way Company, after an agreement has been come to between
the Snblime Porte, the Government of the Principality, and
the Directors of this Company. The regulations as to the
other railways (voies ferries) which cross the Principality are
also reserved for an agreement between the Sublime Porte,
the Government established in Bulgaria, and the Directors of
the Companies concerned. Article X.
The Sublime Porte shall have the right to make use of
Bulgaria for the transport by fixed routes of its troops,

592 appendix. .
munitions, and provisions to the provinces beyond the Prin
cipality, and vice versa. In order to avoid difficulties and
misunderstandings in the application of this right, while
guaranteeing the military necessities of the Sublime Porte, a
special regulation will lay down the conditions of it within
three months after the ratification of the present Act by an
understanding between the Sublime Porte and the Bulgarian
Government. It is fully understood that this right is limited to the regular
Ottoman troops, and that the irregulars, the Bashi-Bazouks,
and the Circassians will be absolutely excluded from it.
The Sublime Porte also reserves to itself the right of sending
its postal service through the Principality, and of maintaining
telegraphic communication. These two points shall also be
determined in the manner and within the period of time indi
cated above. Article XL
The Mussulman proprietors or others who fix their personal
residence outside the Principality may retain their estates by
having them farmed or administered by others. Turco-Bul-
garian Commissions shall sit in the principal centres of popula
tion, under the superintendence of Russian Commissioners, to
decide absolutely in the course of two years all questions relative
to the verification of real property in which either Mussulmans
or others may be interested.
Similar Commissions will be charged with the duty of regu
lating within two years all questions relative to the mode of
alienation, working, or use for the benefit of the Sublime
Porte of the property of the State, and of the religious endow
ments (Vacouf).
At the expiration of the two years mentioned above all pro
perties which shall not have been claimed shall be sold by
public auction, and the proceeds thereof shall be devoted to the
support of the widows and orphans, Mussulman as well as
Christian, victims of the recent events.
Article XII.
All the Danubian fortresses shall be razed. There shaU be
no strongholds in future on the banks of this river, nor any
men-of-war in the waters of the Principalities of Roumania,
Servia, and Bulgaria, except the usual stationnaires and the
small vessels intended for river-police and custom-house pur-

The rights, obligations, and prerogatives of the International
Commission of the Lower Danube are maintained intact.

appendix. 593
Article XIII.
The Sublime Porte undertakes to render the passage of
Soulina again navigable, and to indemnify the private indivi
duals who have suffered loss by the war and the interruption of
the navigation of the Danube, applying for this double charge a
sum of 500,000 francs from the amount due to the Sublime Porte
from the Danubian Commission. Article XIV.
The European proposals communicated to the Ottoman
Plenipotentiaries at the first sitting of the Constantinople Con-
, ference shall immediately be introduced into Bosnia and Herze
govina, with any modifications which may be agreed upon in
common between the Sublime Porte, the Government of Russia,
and that of Austria-Hungary.
The payment of arrears of taxes shall not be required, and
the current revenues of these provinces until the 1st of March,
1880, shall be exclusively applied to indemnify the families of
refugees and inhabitants, victims of recent events, without dis
tinction of race or creed, as well as to the local needs of the
country. The sum to be received annually after this period by
the Central Government shall be subsequently fixed by a
special understanding between Turkey, Russia, and Austria-
Hungary. Article XV.
The Sublime Porte engages to apply scrupulously in the
Island of Crete the Organic Law of 1868, taking into account
the previously expressed wishes of the native population.
An analogous law adapted to local requirements shall likewise
be introduced into Epirus, Thessaly, and the other parts of
Turkey in Europe, for which a special constitution is not pro
vided by the present Act.
Special Commissions, in which the native population will be
largely represented, shall in each province be entrusted with the
ftask of elaborating the details of the new organization, and
the result of their labours shall be submitted to the Sublime
Porte, who will consult the Imperial Government of Russia be-
Bore carrying it into effect. Article XVI.
As the evacuation by the Russian troops of the territory which
they occupy in Armenia, and which is to be restored to Turkey,
might give rise to conflicts and complications detrimental to the

594 APPENDIX.
maintenance of good relations between the two countries, the
Sublime Porte engages to carry into effect, without further
delay, the improvements and reforms demanded by local require
ments in the provinces inhabited by Armenians, and to guaran
tee theH security from Kurds and CHcassians.
Article XVII.
A full and complete amnesty is granted by the Sublime
Porte to all Ottoman subjects compromised by recent events,
and all persons imprisoned on this account or sent into exile
shall be immediately set at liberty.
Article XVIII.
The Sublime Porte will take into serious consideration the
opinion expressed by the Commissioners of the Mediating
Powers as regards the possession of the town of Khotour, and
engages to have the works of the definitive delimitation of the
Turco-Persian Boundary carried into effect.
Article XIX.
The war indemnities and the losses imposed on Russia which
His Majesty the Emperor of Russia claims, and which the
Sublime Porte has bound itself to reimburse to him, consist
of— (a.) 900,000,000 roubles for war expenses (maintenance of
the army, replacing of war material, and war contracts).
(6.) 400,000,000 roubles on account of damage done to the
south coast of Russia, to her export commerce, to her industries,
and to her railways.
(c.) 100,000,000 roubles for injuries inflicted on the Caucasus
by the invasion ; and,
(d.) 10,000,000 roubles for costs and damages of Russian
subjects and establishments in Turkey.
Total 1,410,000,000 roubles.
Taking into consideration the financial embarrassments of
Turkey, and in accordance with the wishes of His Majesty the
Sultan, the Emperor of Russia consents to substitute for the
payment of the greater part of the moneys enumerated in the
above paragraph, the following territorial cessions : — ¦
(a.) The Sandjak of Toultcha, that is to say, the districts
(Cazas) of Kilia, Soulina, Mahmoudie, Isaktcha, Toultcha,
Matchine, Babadagh, Hirsowo, Kustendje, andMedjidie, as well
as the Delta Islands and the Isle of Serpents.

appendix. 595
Not wishing, however, to annex this territory and the Delta
Islands, Russia reserves the right of exchanging them for the
part of Bessarabia detached from her by the Treaty of 1856,
and which is bounded on the south by the thalweg of the Kilia
branch and the mouth of the Stary-Stamboul.
The question of the apportionment of waters and fisheries
shaU be determined by a Russo-Roumanian Commission within
a year after the ratification of the Treaty of Peace.
(b.) Ardahan, Kars, Batoum, Bayazet, and the territory as
far as the Saganlough.
In its general outline, the frontier line, leaving the Black Sea
coast, wUl follow the crest of the mountains which separate the
affluents of the River Hopa from those of the River Tcharokh,
and the chain of the mountains to the south of the town of
Artwin up the river Tcharokh, near the villages of Alat and
Bechaget ; then the frontier will pass by the peaks of Mounts
Dervenikghek, Hortchezor, and Bedjiguin-Dagh, by the crest
which separates the affluents of the Rivers Tortoum-tchai and
the Tcharokh by the heights near Zaily-Vihine, coming down
at the vUlage Vihine-Kilissa to the River Tortoum-tchai ; thence
it will follow the Sivridagh chain to the pass (col) of the
same name, passing south of the village of Noriman ; then it will
turn to the south-east and go to Zivine, whence the frontier,
passing west of the road which leads from Zivine to the villages
of Ardost and Horassan, will turn south by the Saganlough
¦ chain to the village of Gilitchman ; then by the crest of
the Charian-Dagh it will arrive, ten versts south of Hamour,
at the Mourad-tchai defile ; then the line will follow the
crest of the AHa-Dagh and the summits of the Hori and Tan-
dourek, and passing south of the Bayazet valley, will proceed
to rejoin the old Turko-Persian frontier to the south of the
I lake of KazU-gueul.
The definitive limits of the territory annexed to Russia, and
indicated on the map hereto appended, will be fixed by a Com
mission composed of Russian and Ottoman delegates.
This Commission in its labours will take into account the
topography of localities, as well as considerations of good ad-
". ministration and other conditions calculated to insure the tran
quillity of the country.
(c.) The territories mentioned in paragraphs (a) and (b) are
ceded to Russia as an equivalent for the sum of one milliard and
one hundred million roubles. As for the rest of the indemnity,
fapart from the 10,000,000 of roubles intended to indemnify
?Russian, interests and establishments in Turkey, namely,
300,000,000 of roubles — the mode of payment and guarantee of

596 appendix.
that sum shall be settled by an understanding between the Im
perial Government of Russia and that of his Majesty the
Sultan. (d.) The 10,000,000 roubles claimed as indemnity for the
Russian subjects and establishments in Turkey shall be paid as
soon as the claims of those interested are examined by the Russian
Embassy at Constantinople and handed to the Sublime Porte.
Article XX.
The Sublime Porte will take effective steps to put an amicable
end to the lawsuits of Russian subjects pending for several
years, to indemnify the latter if need be, and to carry into effect
without delay all judgments passed.
Article XXI.
The inhabitants of the districts ceded to Russia who wish to
take up their residence out of these territories will be free to
retire on selling all their real property. For this purpose an
interval of three years is granted them, counting from the date
of ratification of the present Act.
On the expiration of that time those of the inhabitants who
shall not have sold their real property and left the country shall
remain Russian subjects.
Real property belonging to the State, or to religious establish
ments situated out of the localities aforesaid, shall be sold
within the same interval of three years as shall be arranged by
a special Russo-Turkish Commission. The same Commission
shall be intrusted with determining how the Ottoman Govern
ment is to remove its war material, munitions, supplies, and
other State property actually in the forts, towns, and localities
ceded to Russia, and not at present occupied by Russian troops.
Article XXII.
Russian ecclesiastics, pilgrims, and monks travelling or
sojourning in Turkey in Europe or in Asia shall enjoy the same
rights, advantages, and privileges as the foreign ecclesiastics of
any other nationality.
The right of official protection by the Imperial Embassy and
Russian Consulates in Turkey is recognized, both as regards the
persons above-mentioned, and their possessions, religious houses,
charitable institutions, &c, in the Holy Places and elsewhere.
The monks of Mount Athos, of Russian origin, shall be
maintained in all their possessions and former privileges, and

APPENDIX. 597
shall continue to enjoy in the three convents belonging to them
and in the adjoining buildings the same rights and privileges
as are assured to the other religious establishments and con
vents of Mount Athos. Article XXIII.
All the Treaties, Conventions, and agreements previously con
cluded between the two High Contracting Parties relative to
commerce, jurisdiction, and the position of Russian subjects in
Turkey, and which had been abrogated by the state of war,
shall come into force again, with the exception of the clauses
affected by the present Act. The two Governments will be
placed again Hi the same relation to one another, with respect
to all their engagements and commercial and other relations,
as they were in before the declaration of war.
Article XXIV.
The Bosphorus and the Dardanelles shall remain open in
time of war as in time of peace to the merchant-vessels of
neutral States arriving from or bound to Russian ports. The
Sublime Porte consequently engages never henceforth to es
tablish at the ports of the Black Sea and the Sea of Azov, a
fictitious blockade (bloaus fiatif), at variance with the spirit of
the Declaration signed at Paris on the y\th of April, 1856.
Article XXV.
The complete evacuation of Turkey in Europe, with the ex
ception of Bulgaria, by the Russian army will take place within
three months after the conclusion of the definitive peace be
tween His Majesty the Emperor of Russia and His Majesty the
Sultan. In order to save time, and to avoid the cost of the prolonged
maintenance of the Russian troops in Turkey and Roumania,
part of the Imperial army may proceed to the ports of the
Black Sea and the Sea of Marmora, to be there shipped in
vessels belonging to the Russian Government or chartered for
the occasion.
The evacuation of Turkey in Asia will be effected within the
space of six months, dating from the conclusion of the defi
nitive peace, and the Russian troops will be entitled to take
ship at Trebizond in order to return by the Caucasus or the
Crimea. The operations of the evacuation will begin immediately after
the exchange of ratifications.

598

APPENDIX.

Article XXVI.
As long as the Imperial Russian troops remain in the locali
ties which, in conformity with the present Act, will be restored
to the Sublime Porte, the administration and order of affaHs
will continue in the same state as has existed since the occupa
tion. The Sublime Porte will not participate therein durmg
all that time, nor until the entire departure of all the troops.
The Ottoman forces shall not enter the places to be restored
to the Sublime Porte, and the Sublime Porte cannot begin to
exercise its authority there, until notice of each fortress and
province having been evacuated by the Russian troops shaU
have been given by the Commander of these troops to the
officer appointed for this purpose by the Sublime Porte.
Article XXVII.
The Sublime Porte undertakes not to punish in any manner,
or allow to be punished, those Ottoman subjects. who may have
been compromised by their relations with the Russian army
during the war. In the event of any persons wishing to with
draw with theH families when the Russian troops leave, the
Ottoman authorities shall not oppose theH departure.
Article XXVIII.
Immediately upon the ratification of the Preliminaries of
Peace, the prisoners of war shall be reciprocaUy restored under
the care of special Commissioners appointed on both sides, who
for this purpose shall go to Odessa and Sebastopol. The Otto
man Government wiU pay all the expenses of the maintenance
of the prisoners that are returned to them, in eighteen equal
instalments in the space of six years, in accordance with the
accounts that will be drawn up by the above-mentioned Com
missioners. The exchange of prisoners between the Ottoman Government
and the Governments of Roumania, Servia, and Montenegro
will be made on the same bases, deducting, however, in the
account, the number of prisoners restored by the Ottoman
Government from the number of prisoners that will have to be
restored to that Government. Article XXIX.
The present Act shaU be ratified by their Imperial Majesties
the Emperor of Russia and the Emperor of the Ottomans, and
the ratifications shall be exchanged in fifteen days, or sooner if

APPENDIX. 599
possible, at St. Petersburgh, where likewise an agreement shall
be come to as to the place and the time at which the stipula
tions of the present Act shall be invested with all the solemn
forms usually observed in Treaties of Peace. It is, however,
weU understood that the High Contracting Parties consider
themselves as formally bound by the present Act from the
moment of its ratification.
In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have ap
pended their signatures and seals to the present Act.
Done at San Stefano, the nin6t^tb]^'"r, one thousand eight
hundred and seventy-eight.
(Signed) Cte- N. Ignatiew. (Signed) Safvet.
Nelidow. Sadoullah.

Final paragraph of Article XL of the Act of the Prelimi
naries of Peace signed this day, "£"1" 1878, which was
omitted, and which should form an integral part of the said
Article : —
The inhabitants of the Principality of Bulgaria when travel
ling or sojourning in the other parts of the Ottoman Empire
shall be subject to the Ottoman laws and authorities.
(Signed) C6' N. Ignatiew. (Signed) Safvet.
Nelidow. Sadoullah.
San Stefano, **££££ 1878.

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