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ILLUSTRATED BOOK'S
By the author of this volume.
Price $i 50 each.

I.— Our Artist in Cuba.
II. — Our Artist in Peru.
III. — Our Artist in Italy (in press),
IV.— Our Artist in France (in press).

£* All sent by mail free, on receipt of price ', by
CARLETON, Publisher,
NEW YORK.

0 U R
ARTIST IN PERU,
[fifty drawings on wood.]

LEAVES FROM
THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELLER,
During the Winter of 1865-6,

GEO. W. CARLETON,
Author nf " Our Artist in Cuba," etc.

' Let obneroatiati , with expatusioe vieio.
Survey mankind from China to Pent.'

NEW YORK:
Carleton, Publisher, 413 Broadway.
London: S Low Son &* Co.
MDCCCLXVI.

Entered according to Acl of Congress, in the year 1866, by
GEO. W. CARLETON,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United
States for the Southern District of New York.

8b^

j. P. Davis &. Speer, Engravers and Printers.

., Ot

CONTENTS.

A Preliminary Word.

No

Friendly Counsels i
A Disagreeable Berth 2
A Colored Reception 3
The Naked Truth 4
A Panama Laundress 5
A Man's a Man for a' Hat 6
Domestic Bliss 7
A Bit of a Church 8
Hot Weather 9
What an Ass ! 10
A Happy Family - ii
Land at Last 12
Callao Cathedral 13
A Baggage Train 14
The Cathedral at Lima 15
A Water-Carrier 16
A Bag of Cuffey - 17
Birds of a Feather flock together 18
A China Bowl of Soup - 19
A Thing of Beauty is j\ juy 20
My fondest Hopes decay - 21
A Rat-ification Meeting 22
A back Seat - 23
An excellent View 24

VI CONTENTS. No.
Bread-baskets 25
Good for Digestion 26
An Eye for an Eye 27
Who knows? (nose) 28
Discretion in Valor 29
Black Warriors - 30
Music hath Charms 31
A Chariot Race 32
An Antique - 33
A Family Arrangement 34
Heads of the People 35
By their Fruits ye shall know them - 36
A Beast of Burden 37
A Night Adventure - - 38
A Runaway - 39
The light fantastic Toe 40
A Rooster 41
A Chime of Bells - 42
Dog-days 43
Pork Business - 44
When shall we three meet again ? 45
Unhand me ! 46
Nothing venture, nothing have 47
A great Sell 48
A beggarly Show 4<v
A Dead-Head 50

A PRELIMINARY WORD.
The flattering reception that last year at
tended the publication of Our Artist in Cuba,
has led its author to issue this little book of
a similar character, which shadows forth such
trifling but novel incidents as helped to gild
many odd moments during a recent pleasure-
trip to Peru.
No attempt is made to voluminously de
scribe the sad sea (sicky) waves of the Atlan
tic ocean in the stormy month of February —
nor the sunny view of Cuba, as you pass its
eastern cocoa-wooded point — nor that tempest
in a teapot, the Carib Sea — nor pandemo
nium broke loose, the town of Aspinwall, with
negroes thick like leaves of Vallambrosa, only
not nearly so sweet-scented — nor that miracle
of engineering skill, the Panama Railroad,
which intoxicates the susceptive traveller with
its wild scenery and its parasitical fringe of
tropical vegetation — nor strange, old, Spanish
Panama, with its huge ecclesiastical ruins, its
Barber-of-Seville sort of streets, and its ever
lastingly crowing game-cocks — nor that hottest
of little islands, Taboga, from whose tranquil

VI 11 A PRELIMINARY WORD.
bay the English steamers start on their south
ward trips — nor the voyage down the Pacific,
with vessel so comfortable, sea so smooth,
and weather so chief among ten thousand,
and altogether lovely — nor the curious little
seaports at intervals on the coast, with their
wild Indian populations, and their zoological
and pomological surprises — nor the arrival at
Callao, where one utters an Ave Maria each
night, if he hasn't been earthquaked during
the day — nor Lima itself, that South Ameri
can paradise, which to describe would be to
bewilder Scheherazade with all her imagina
tion. These things, and many, many more, does
the pocket note-book of Our Artist retain
little sketchy impressions of — and essaying
only to convey a ray of information through
the glasses of humor, the Author has multi
plied with printers'-ink his book of sketches,
which, although caricatures, are but exaggera
tions of aftual events, on the spur of the
moment jotted down, for the same sort of
mere pastime as may lead the reader to linger
along its ephemeral pages.
New York, July, 1866.

THE START— STEAMSHIP "HENRY CHAUNCEY.
FROM NEW YORK TO ASPINWALL.

Sea-sickness being a weakness of Our Artist, he determines to be fore-armed, and accordingly
provides himself with a few simple preventives, -warmly recommended by his various friends.

IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA.

Our Artist, having indulged rather freely in the different preventives, gets things mixed, and
wishes that his friends and their confounded antidotes were at the bottom of the Dead Sea.

ARRIVAL AT ASPINWALL.

First impressions of the city and its inhabitants — Cplored citizens on the dock, awaiting the
steamer's advent

ISTHMUS OF DARIEN.

one-eared greyhound indigenous to the country. P"ghtly 5peC,men of the

A VIEW IN PANAMA.

The old and weather-beaten church of Santa Ana-and in the foreground, with basket on
her head, baby under one arm, and bowl of milk supported by the other, a colored lady of West
Indian descent, vulgarly known as a " Jamaica nigger."

AN AFTERNOON AT PANAMA,

Deeming it always incumbent upon the traveller to invest
in the products of the country, Our Artist provides himself
with a good sensible Panama hat, and thus with wife and
"mutual friend," he peacefully and serenely meanders around
among the suburbs of the city.

A STREET SCENE IN PANAMA.

Our Artist, with the naked eye, beholds a pig, a fighting-cock, and a black baby, all tied by
the leg, at the humble doorway of the residence of a colored citizen, in the principal street of the
capital of Central America,

IN THE BAY OF PANAMA

Our Artist wanders about the sleepy little neighboring island, Taboga wh
teamers lie, and sketches, among otl
in the dirty little Broadway of Tabo"

™.:ie!-d — — - p^^ «^;::z ~^z:*e*^

STEAMSHIP "CHILE."
FROM PANAMA TO CALLAO.

Crossing the equinoctial line, Our Artist discovers that the
rays of a vertical sun are anything but bracing and cool.
9

PAYTA— A SEAPORT IN PERU.

Our Artist, having understood that this town is chiefly remarkable for its fine breed of mules
ironically inquires of a native Venus if this can be considered a good specimen. The N. V*
treats Our Artist with silent, stolid, Indian contempt.

NATURAL HISTORY IN PERU.

Our Artist visits a coasting-vessel just arrived from Guayaquil, loaded with every variety of
tropical fruit, and a sprinkling of tame monkeys, parrots, alligators, white herons, iguanas,
paroquets, spotted deer, etc.

ARRIVAL AT CALLAO— THE HARBOR.

The landing-boat being a trifle too much loaded by the head, Our Artist finds it somewhat
difficult to steer.

ARCHITECTURE IN CALLAO.

The little one-story Cathedral on the Plaza, which the earthquakes have so frantically and so
vainly1 tried to swallow up or tumble down.

ARRIVAL AT LIMA.

Triumphal entry of Our Artist and his much-the-better-half; reviving the brilliant days of
Pizarro and his conquering warriors, as they entered the " City of the Kings." — The Peruvian
warriors in the present century, however, conquer but the baggage, and permit the weary traveller
to walk to his hotel at the tail-end of the procession.

THE CATHEDRAL AT LIMA.

An after-dinner sketch (rather shaky) from our balcony in the Hotel Morin, on- the Grand Plaza.

DOMESTICS IN PERU.

One of the waiters at our hotel, clad in the inevitable poncho
— A genuine native Peruvian, perhaps a son of "Rolla the
Peruvian," who was " within." 16

A PERUVIAN COOK.

Peeping into the kitchen one day, Our Artist perceives that
a costume, cool and neglige^ may be improvised by making a
hole in a coffee-bag and getting into it.
17

STREETS OF LIMA-CALLE JUDIOS.

i^*i

«heAl^°leT^ °*erStreet ™ "ma has a stream of fil*y ™«« or open sewer running through
the middle of ,t, offermg rich fishing-grounds to the graceful gallinazos or turkey-buzzards, who
thus constitute the street-cleaning department of the municipal government.

CELESTIALS IN PERU.

Our Artist is here seen resisting the tempting offer of a bowl of what appears **£^£
soup, in front of one of the Chinese cook-shops that abound m the ne.ghborhood of the market

DOLCE FAR NIENTE-A DREAM OF PERU.

Our Artist before going to Lima, during little poetical siestas, had indulged in lovelv
series, the burden of which he sketches in his mw. „„ u ' :_ ,. g " '°VeIy

he sketches in his mind's eye, Horatio— bu

THE SAD REALITY.

Alas ! too frequently his thirsty eye is met only by such
visions as the above— and the lovely beauties of Lima, where
are they ?

l'.EDROOMS IN PERU.

A seftion of the inner-wall to our chamber at the Hotel in Lima. — The condition of things
nt the witching hour nf night, judging by the sounds.

STREETS OF LIMA.-CALLE PALACIO.

A young Peruvian accompanying its mamma to market in
the morning. 23

STREETS OF LIMA-CALLE PLATEROS.

A picturesque little mirador or lookout at the corner of
Calle Plateros and Bodegones, opposite the Hotel Maury,
w ith balconies ad lib.

OCCUPATIONS IN LIMA.

The panadero, or baker, as he appears on his mite of a
donkey, rushing round through the streets of Lima, delivering
bread to his customers. 25

CARRIAGES AND PAVEMENTS IN LIMA.

Our Artist, after a hearty dinner, extravagantly engages a three-horse coupe", and goes out for a
regular, genuine, native Peruvian ride.
That his bones are unbroken, and that he is yet alive to tell the tale, remains to him an
unfathomable mystery.

COSTUMES IN LIMA.— THE SAYA Y MANTO.

Our Artist has heard a good deal about the magnificent
eyes of the Limanian women ; but as he never sees more than
one eye at a time, he can't say much about them, with any
regard for the truth. 27

HEAD-DRESSES IN LIMA.— THE MANTO.

The Senoritas look very prettily sometimes, with their black
mantillas thrown gracefully over their heads, {See Geogra
phies, etc.,) but when you come across a party possessing a
decided nose, in profile, the effect is rather startling.
28

REVOLUTIONS IN PERU.

Our apartments look out upon the Grand Plaza, where the
fighting usually takes place ; and as the windows are mostly
broken by the balls of the last Revolution, (Nov. 6, 1865,) and
1 it's about time for another, Our Artist gets into ambuscade
every time he hears a fire-cracker in the street.
29

THE WAR WITH SPAIN.

Two native and dreadfully patriotic Peruvian soldiers on
review before their superior officer. 3°

MARITAL MUSIC IN PERU.

The National Hymn, with variations, as rendered by the
Royal Band in front of President Prado's palace on the Grand
Plaza. 31

FINE ARTS IN PERU.

A hnsty sketch of Mistress Juno and her peacocks, as represented bv fresco in the doorway
a Lima palace— Calle Ayachiicho.

DARK AGES OF PERU.

'I 'he old unfinished church and deserted monastery of San Francisco

de Paula— Calle Mal.imbo

LOCOMOTION IN SOUTH AMERICA.

What the country people would do down there, if the jackasses were only long enough.
¦- What thev do do, is but slightly caricatured by Our Artist.

HAIR-DRESSING IN LIMA.

Ladies* style as seen at the theatre.
Also Our Artist before and after he had his hair cut in the
latest Lima fashion. 35

A FRUIT-STALL AT CHORRILLOS.

Our Artist, as he appeared when stricken with amazement at the huge clusters of white grapes
that are everywhere, for a mere song, sold in Peru.

SHOPPING IN PERU.

A Peruvian materfamilias, having bought a few simple house-keeping articles in town, is here
seen returning to her mountain home, accompanied by her purchases.

THE FLEAS OF LIMA.

Having been nearly devoured by these carnivorous little devils, Our Artist sprinkles himself
with Turkish flea-powder one night before retiring, and is charmed at the rapid and parabolic
manner with which they desert him.

THE LLAMAS OF PERU.

Our Artist had heretofore fancied that it would be immensely jolly to ride one of these singular
bellts of burden i but when he encounters this one, on a lonely road outside the walls one day,
he begs to be excused.

TERPSICHORE IN PERU.

Our Artist assists at a mask-ball in the Jardin Otaiza, and
is puzzled at the nationality of the costumes worn by the
dancers. 40

CHURCH ORNAMENTS IN LIMA.

The statues in the niches and on the spires of the Cathedral look very well in the daytime ;
but at night, when the turkey-buzzards roost on their heads, the solemnity of the thing is some
what marred.

THE BELLS OF LIMA.

Lima is full of churches, and the churches are full of bells ; and as they ring and bang away
from dewy eve till early morn, their cadences are calculated to disturb somewhat the peaceful
slumbers of Our Artist.

PERUVIAN BARK— IN THE ROUGH.

Our Artist is treated to plenty of this quinine (canine) salutation, whenever and wherever he
pays a visit in Lima.

TRANSPORTATION IN PERU.

" This pig went to market," but as he wouldn't go decently, he was tied upon the back of the
ever-patient donkey, and so, nolem vokns, came to Lima, crossing the bridge over the Kimac,
where Our Artist sketched him.

PRIESTS AND FRIARS OF LIMA.

A theological discussion of the gravest import takes place
between three jolly Fathers of the Roman Catholic Church —
a Dominican, a Mercedarian, and a Buena-Muertean.
Scene — The square in front of the church of San Fran
cisco, with its crooked cross. 45

ENTOMOLOGY IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Our Artist doesn't want to say anything against the insects of Peru ; but the way in which one
of his hands swelled up, after a bite from some unknown vannit in the night, was, to say the
least, alarmintr.

LOTTERIES IN PERU.

Having invested in the semi-monthly Lima lottery, Our Artist feels so confident of drawing
the $4,000 prize, that he gets extravagant, wears his good clothes, and smokes one-dollar cigars;
but a revulsion of feeling takes place after the drawing produces nothing for him but blanks.

CURIOSITIES OF 'PERU.

^U

Having been informed by a musty old sepulchral monk
that the remains of Pizarro might be seen behind this grating,
Our Artist tremblingly gazes therein — but as it is pitch dark,
he doesn't recognize Pizarro. 43

A COUP D'OZIL IN LIMA.

A picturesque view of the great stone bridge over the rapid river Rimac, showing the towers
of the church Desamparados, the Arch with illuminated clock, and the spire of Santo Domingo.
— Sketched with about ninety-seven Peruvian beggars looking over Our Artist's shoulder.

LAST DAY AT LIMA.

A "A \ A \m

-^-oU, J

A visit to the Museum — which contains a not very remark
able collection of Peruvian ~ntiquities — and where Our Artist
sees all that remains of the once magnificent Atahualpa, last
king of the Incas.
Alas, poor Yorick ! To this complexion must we come at
last. — Fit sketch wherewith to end this strange, eventful his
tory of " Our Artist in Peru." 5°