eS,'PB&5Ssrr.s^rhr,-s: ,;: : 3 9002 05350 3323 ' ^SKarriifyjlH ' * '- < 'HwwiinmlylnWI ¦' ''A't.'''ijji^9»HMBi Gr>74 Z5 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1945 DAVID D. OLIVER. Author. One Of THE First White Men to Settle in Alpena Coumr, and THE First to Ensaoe in LuMBERiNa. CENTENNIAL HISTORY OF ALPENA COUNTY^ MICHIGAN. GIVING SKETCH OF MICHIGAN FROM ITS EARLY SETTLEMENT, FORTUNES AND MISFORTUNES OF FIRST SETTLERS. THE SURVEY, SETTLEMENT AND GROWTH OF ALPENA COUNTY, FROM 1837 TO 1876. BY DAVID D. OLIVER. . ALPENA, MICH. ARGUS PRINTINO HOUSE. 1903. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1893, hy DAVID D. OLIVER, In the Office ot the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. CENTENNIAL HISTORY OF ALPENA COUNTY^ MICHIGAN. CHAPTER L PBELIMINABY BEMAEKS, In order to show the progress and development of Alpena county, it will be necessary to go back to the earliest days of its settlement by white people, and to show the circumstances, conditions and influences by which they wtre surrounded at the time of such settlement, as these have much to do with their future prosperity and happiness, and determines in no small degree the character of their popular institutions. And hence this work would be incomplete without referring to the History of the State of Michigan — at the time and since its ad mission into the Sisterhood of States. An act was passed by Congress, on the 15th day of June, 1836, for the admission of Michigan as one of the States of the Union ; but with the then humiliatiug condition, that it would relinquish its claim to the southern boundry, (which was a narrow strip or land extending from Lake Michigan to Lake Erie, and claimed by Indiana and Ohio, ) and accept instead thereof, the Upper Peninsula, which was then an unexplored region, and considered of no probable value. In December, of the same year, a packed convention met and agreed to the con- ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. ditions imposed by Congress ; and Michigan was admitted as one of the States of the Union, on the 26th of January, 1837. In the winter of the same year, Canada became involved in a quasi rebellion, and the country becoming ^too warm politically for the healthful exercise of the writer's American proclivities, he resolves to quit the Queen's Dominions, (as he was only a visitor, ) and he crossed the dividing line, at Port Horon, into the State of Michigan, which was then undergoing some mate rial changes, financially and politically. Steven T. Mason was elected first Governor. He was a young man, of more than ordinary ability, — had been Secretary and acting Grovernor of the Territory while in his minority ; and now, with the young State, was merging into manhood and freedom, with many wants and ambitions to satisfy; and the young State and its young Governor, without experience, launch ed out into many extravagances, and committed many errors, which resulted in financial ruin to the State and its inhabitants. There was some question at the time, as to who got the money; but there was no disputing the fact that the State got the ex perience. At this time, (1876), when we have railroads and telegraph lines traversing the State in every direction, it is im possible for the present generation to fully comprehend the sit uation or feelings of the people of our State in those days. Then there was no railway communication with the east; nor was there any convenient way of traveling by land between Detroit and Chicago. A large portion of the State of Michigan, at this time, (1838, ) was an immense forest, the most of which was uusurveyed, and but little known. It was, therefore, not only desirable, but necessary, that the lands should be surveyed and explored; and that certain improvements should be carried into efPect, in order to develop the resources of the country. Uncle Sam was doino- his part. The public lands were being surveyed by Deputy United States Surveyors, who done the work under contracts ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. at a certain price per mile. In the fall of 1838, the writer hired with Messrs. Alvin and Austin Burt, who had a contract for surveying lands on the Aubetsies river, in the northwest ern part of the Southern Peninsula. We started — fourteen in number, and four pack horses — from Washington, in Macomb county, and traveled west through the counties of Oakland, Shiawassee, Livingston, Ionia and Kent, to Grand Rapids. Sometimes we traveled in a road, and other times in an In dian trail; and much of the way through wood and marsh, with out trail or road. The first night out, we camped where Fenton now is. This was the first time that the writer had ever camped out in a tent, but not the last. Here was a log house and a small clearing. The next day we passed through Shiawassee county, near the village of Owosso, where there was a clearing in the oak woods, and a small cluster of buildings; but the people were in excel lent spirits and good working order, for the survey of a rail road had been made through their town only a short time before, and they felt confident that it would be made in a very short time. We struck another clearing near the Lookingglass river, but clearings were "few and far between" on our line of march. In passing through Livingston county, we were terrorized by snakes. In the marshes and low lands we found in profusion a species of rattlesnake called the massasauga, many of which we killed, and which kept us in constant dread. On the plains we had some experience with the blue racer. One day, one of the advanced party saw a large snake of this kind, and gave chase, but the snake kept at a safe distance ahead of the man, running with his head high above the ground and small bushes. Finding he could not overtake the snake, he gave up the chase and started to return, when, to his astonishment and terror, he found the snake returning also, and with a loud yell, he started on double quick to reach the rest of the party. When, almost b ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. breathless, he came to a halt among us, there was his snakeship at a respectful distance, his head above the bushes, his tongue flashing derision at the whole party. He looked immensely good natured, and as though he was king of snakes, and was out on a reconnoiter. Capt. Darius Cole was one of the party and one of the packers, and who proposed to unpack one of the horses and surround and capture the snake, as it was a very large one, or run it down with the horse. But his snakeship seemed to understand what was transpiring, as well as the ancient one in the Garden of Eden, and before we were ready to surround and take him in, he respectfully withdrew, and could not be found. In louia county, we met Douglass Houghton, the then State Geologist. He was on one of the early geological surveys. He had an Indian for a packer, and his pack-horse was a coal- black one, and his camp tins were new and bright and were hung on both sides of the animal, making a singular appear ance, and rattling when he traveled, as though he belonged to a charivari party. In due time we reached Lyons, which we found quite a lively little town in the woods, containing about five hundred inhabitants, who were hoping for and expecting a railroad in a very few years. From this place to Grand Eapids we traveled in a very passable road for a wagon, and saw some settlements, placed at long intervals. We halted at Grand Eapids a short time, to make some purchases and recruit our provisions, as this was the last village we would see for many months. Grand Rapids, at this time, (1838,) had the appear ance of a growing little village, with say fifteen hundred inhab itants. It had water communication, by boats on the river, to Grand Haven. It had a bank, a sawmill and two painted buildings, which were used as stores. It was the center of considerable trade in general merchandise and peltry. From this place to Aubetsies river, a little over one hundred miles north, was a howling wilderness, with only an Indian trader at ALPENA COUNTY PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. i the mouth of Muskegon river, a small sawmill at White river, and a Missionary Station at Manistee. The writer has given a short sketch of this trip across the State, in order to show the condition at this time (1838) of that strip of country over which the palace cars of the Detroit & Milwaukee railway now (1876) travel, and conveying the traveling public with dispatch and comfort. The travel west, at this time, was very large, and most of it was by steamboats, around the lakes. Some of the boats were large and commo dious, and although they would not compare in structure with those of the present day, yet they conveyed passengers with comfort, safety and dispatch. Judge Campbell, in his excellent work, "Outlines of Political History of Michigan," says, in regard to improvements: "The first State legislature was chiefly directed to the development of the resources of the country. Roads were laid out in every direction, and placed under local supervision, so that the peo ple most nearly interested might have means of preventing neglect and dishonestv. Eailroads were chartered whenever asked for. The University and School lands were put in market on long time. The State prepared, as soon as possible, to enter upon a general system of internal improvements, whereby all parts of its jurisdiction would be made readily acceptable and be brought within easy reach of market and business facilities." "One of the first and best schemes devised to further the de velopment of the State resources, was the organization of a complete geological survey. In February, 1837, an act was passed for the appointment of a State Geologist, to conduct such survey, and annual suras, increasing from $3,000 the first year, to $12,000 the fourth, were appropriated. Doctor Doug lass Houghton was selected to fill the olfice." * * * "In addition to some smaller debts, it was determmed to bor row five million of dollars to expend in various public works. It was expected that by the aid of this sum and such other do- ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. nations as might be received from the United States, three trunk railroads could be built across the State, two canals made, several rivers improved so as to be navigable, some small rail roads finished, and a ship-canal opened round the falls of the Ste. Marie river. "A Board of Commissioners of Internal Improvements had already been appointed. On the 20th of March, 1837, this Board was directed to survey three railroad routes across the peninsula. The first was the Michigan Central, from Detroit to the mouth of St. Joseph river, in Berrien county. The sec ond was the Southern, to run from the mouth of the River Eai- sin, through Monroe, to New Buffalo. The third was the North ern, to run from Palmer, or Port Huron, to Grand Rapids or Grand Haven. A purchase was to be made of the Detroit & St. Joseph railroad, which had gone partly through Washtenaw county. Five hundred and fifty thousand dollars were appro priated to these roads at once, — four hundred thousand for the Central, one hundred thousand for the Southern, (both of which included private railroads to be purchased,) and fifty thousand for the Northern. Twenty thousand was appropriated for sur veys of a canal, or combined canal and railroad, from Mt. Clem ens to the mouth of the Kalamazoo river, a canal from Saginaw i-iver to Maple or Grand river, and river surveys on the St. Joseph, Kalamazoo and Grand rivers, for slack water naviga tion. Seventy-five thousand dollars more were to be expended on some of these and other works." When the geographical position of the State is studied, it will be seen that this scheme of improvemelits was not without merits, was within the range of possibilities and usefulness, and within the means of the State, had the five million loan been properly negotiated and' expended. The State, at the time of its admission, was out of debt; was entitled to five per cent from the sale of the public lands, which then amounted to $450,000, and it had received and was receiving large donations ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. 9 of land from the general Government; and these, with the five million loan, and the accumulating earnings of the improve ments as they progressed, would have been ample for finishing the contemplated work; and this will more fully appear, when we take into consideration that railroads were not then as perfect and costly as at presen fc. Judge Campbell says in regard to them : "In a level country, well supplied with wood, the cost of build ing and ironing a railroad was very trifling, and its rolling stock was also cheap and scanty. The original capital stock of the Detroit & St. Joseph Railroad Company, the corporation which began the Michigan Central railroad to' Marshall, was recorded in 1846, as having been two millions of dollars. In private hands it would probably have been less; and the capi tal stock of the $1,500,000, aided by the earnings properly managed, would have been adequate, according to the plans first devised, to build the road; although the subsequent im provement in track and stock would have made new arrange ments necessary, if the road had been built as slowly as was then customary. Twenty miles a year was, in those days, rapid railroad building. The passenger cars were small vehicles, holding no more than from eighteen to twenty-four passengers, and not much, if any, heavier than the large stage coaches. The iron was flat bar iron, from half to three-fourths of an inch thick, spiked on wooden sleepers which were lightly tied, and on tracks not perfectly graded or heavily ballasted. The loco motives weighed from two to six or seven tons, and drew cor responding loads." The emigrants and settlers in Michigan were mostly from New England and the State of New York; were intelligent and enterprising, and well calculated to advance the material inter ests of the State, and to build up strong communities. They had unbounded confldence in the disposition and ability of the State to perfect its plans of improvements, and had not the re motest idea that there was a possibility of a failure. They pur- 10 ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. chased lands in the midst of the forest, but on the lines of the proposed railroads and canals, and commenced to clear farms, erect mills and factories, and to build up towns and cities, with the hope and expectation that the day was not far in the future when they would hear the breathings and snorts of the iron horse. Their wealth was more in the future than the present, and depended largely, if not wholly, upon the State completing its railroads and canals. Another institution, which depended for its life and usefulness on the internal improvements, was unlimited banking. It was a scheme calculated to help deveilop the resources of the State, but the foundation ol: its security rested in real estate, the value of which depended entirely up^ on the completion of the improvements promised by the State. Judge Campbell, in speaking of the law, says: "In 1837, a general banking law was passed, which was, supposed to contain better securities than any other similar scheme, and included the safety fund plan, in addition. Any persons residing in a county of the State, including among them at least twelve free holders, could organize banks of from $50,000 to $300,000 capital; and care was taken that at least one-third of the stock should always belong to county residents in good faith, and for their own use; and on executing the preliminaries and paying in thirty per cent in specie, they could proceed to business. Ten per cent was payable on the stock every six months, until all the capital was paid in. Before beginning banking busi ness, bonds and mortgages, or personal bonds of resident free holders, satisfactory to the County Treasurer and County Clerk, were to be filed with the Auditor General, to the full amount of the circulation and indebtedness. Neither the circulation nor the loans and discounts were to exceed twice-and-a-half the amount of the capital stock." During the years 1837, '38, '39, hope and expectation were standing on tip-toe. Surveying parties, employed by the State and United States, could be seen moving in every direction, ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. 11 and large districts of the State were surveyed and brought into market. Large, anxious crowds assembled at the land sales, many of whom, for want of better accommodations, lived in tents during the time the sale lasted. At thesQ sales, large purchases were made, sometimes as high as thirty thousand acres a day, and the utmost activity was manifested in every part oE the Stated in regard to its general improvements, and everybody had his pockets filled with engravings which passed current for money. But in 1840, a reverse came, like the shock of an earthquake; and but very few in the State escaped with out injury. When the people learned the true state of affairs, and that the State would go no further with its improvements, all business became at once paralyzed. Eeal estate dropped to nominal values, while the banks that were secured by it became worthless. No greater commercial calamity ever overtook thai people of the State. Those who were considered wealthy in money and property, suddenly found they had but very little. Their property was in the midst of a forest, without a hope of communication, and they could not work, for they had nothing to work with, as their money was worth less than their real es tate. The laborer could get nothing for his work, and what he had already earned was worth but little, if anything. Many made their exit from the State, while others, like the Roman Senators, resolved to stay and die with their property, as they could not sell it, and afterwards their property made them rich, and thus it was some could not be poor when they would. Others refused to be rich when they could. In the spring of 1839, the surveys in the State of Michigan were continued. Lewis Clason and Thomas Patterson, of Cin cinnati, Ohio, had the sub-division of townships 27, 28, 29 and 30 north, and from range 4 east, to Lake Huron ; and John Hodgson, Esq., of Detroit, Michigan, had the contract to run township lines north of the third correction line. The writer hired with Mr. Clason, for eighteen dollars per month, to carry 12 ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. the chain, which was considered fair wages in those days. The parties of Clason and Patterson left Pontiac, in Oakland coun ty, Michigan, in the early part of April, 1839, some of them in a lumber wagon in advance, and the balance with the pack- horses, brought up the rear. We traveled with the wagon as far as Pine Euu, as it was then called, and this being the ter minus of the wagon road, each one was compelled to "make his pack and play it alone." The road from Pine Eun to Sag inaw City was in progress of construction, under the system of internal improvements, and was one of continual variation, changing from dry land to low, wet swamp, and back to dry land, and from an Indian trail up through every stage of pro gress, to a good wagon road. After much hard traveling, we reached Saginaw river, and were ferried across to Saginaw City. Here was an isolated town of about seven hundred inhabitants, who were all very hopeful and sanguine in the future growth and prosperity of the place. Their only communication with Bay City, or Lower Saginaw, as it was then known, and the outer world, was on the Saginaw river; in the summer by small boats and vessels, and in the winter by sleighs and dog trains on the ice. They had a large public house, a bank, two or three sawmills, and as many stores. The principal occupation of the people was fishing, hunting, lumbering, and trading with the Indians for furs, which were then very plentiful in the northern part of the Southern Penin sula. Harvey Williams and a man by the name of McDonald were the principal Indian traders, who made yearly visits along the shore, to buy furs; and sometimes came as far north al Thunder Bay river. From this place we went down the river to Lower Saginaw, now Bay City, where we found a half dozen or so of frame buildings, a warehouse, a dock, and a small steam sawmill, called the "McCormick Mill." We camped in a beau^ tiful oak grove where the city of Wenona— West Bay City— is now located. Here Mr. Clason chartered an open scow of about ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. 13 eighty tons burden, and the property of a man named Ump- stead. This was the largest craft to be chartered at that time, in Lower Saginaw. It is remarkable to observe with what sagacity the early set tlers made their locations. There is scarcely a place that the writer has visited, not even the solitary log house situated in the midst of the forest, that has not grown to be a place of con siderable importance. After staying at Bay City a few days, to let the ice move out of Saginaw- Bay, we embarked on board this champion of the Sagiuaws, for Thunder Bay. Mr. Clason and his party were landed at Au Sable river, and Mr. Patterson and his party con tinued their voyage to Devil river, in Thunder Bay, where they built a depot for the supplies. The survey work was all finish ed in due time, and we all met at the depot, near the mouth of Devil river, to wash up, and to determine how to get home. While we were thus engaged, Pete Wa Watum, an Indian from the Au Sable river, came along with a large birch canoe, and Mr. Clason hired him to take all of us to Thunder Bay Island, where we could take a boat for Detroit; excepting the packers and their horses, who would travel to Presque Isle, and take a steamboat there. This was the writer's first sailing in a birch canoe, and on the waters of Thunder Bay. On Thunder Bay Island was a lighthouse, kept by Jessey Muncy, a very clever man, who lived there with a large family, and done some fish ing with gill-nets. Here we were treated very kindly by Mr. Muncy and family ; and after feasting on whitefish for a few- days, we were put on board of a schooner, which was bound for Detroit. William Ives, Esq., who subsequently run the first lines of survey for the United States in the Territory of Ore gon, was second in the party and compass-man for Mr. Clason. Messrs. Clason and Ives had thfe misfortune to have all their spare clothing stolen, so that when thev came out of the woods they had no change of clothes. The writer's clothes, fortunate- 14 ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. ly being in another place, escaped the hands of the thief, and so he was favored with a presentable suit, and enough to lend Mr. Clason, who was nearlj' of the writer's size, to make him look respectable. When dinner was ready, — this being the first meal on board the schooner, — Mr. Clason and the writer were notified for the first table, with ofiicers, while Mr. Ives, who ranked much higher in employment than the w-riter, waited for the second table, with sailors and common hands, simply be cause he had the misfortune to have his clothes stolen. The thief, perhaps, with the stolen clothes on, was seated at first table somewhere, and enjoying himself hugely, in the company and confidence of the wise and good. This little episode taught the writer the fact, which he then noticed, and from which he never has been compelled to retreat, that people, as strangers, are judged by their fellows, more by the purity of the clothes they wear, than the purity of heart, character or employment. This was the first Government survey made in Alpena coun ty. It was conceded by the whole survey party, that the entire tract that we had surveyed was worthless; that the. Government would never realize enough from the sale of the lands to pay for the surveying. Mr. Clason was so confident of this, that he said: "I live in Cincinnati, and am able to do what I agree, and I will give any of you a good, warranty deed of any township of land that we have surveyed, for your wages, and will bind myself to purchase the land of the Government for you, should the land ever become so valuable that the Govern ment could sell it to other parties." Not one of the party would accept Mr. Clason's offer. This is not the only report of the kind on record. Judge Campbell, in his History of Michigan, has the following: "The first necessity of the coun try was more people. No lands had been surveyed before the war, except the old private claims. In 1812, among other war legislation, an act was passed, setting aside two million of acres of laud in Michigan, as bounty lands for soldiers. As soon as ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. 15 the war was over, and circumstances permitted, Mr. Tiffin, the Surveyor General, sent agents to Michigan, to select a place for locating these lands. Their report was such as to induce him to recommend the transfer of bounty locations to some other part of the United States. They began on the boundary line between Ohio and Indiana, which was the western limit of the lands surrendered to the United States by the Indian treaty of 1807, and following it north for fifty miles, they described the country as au unbroken series of tamarack swamps, bogs and sand barrens, with not more than one acre in a hundred, and probably iK)t one in a thousand, fit for cultivation. Mr. Tiffin communicated this evil report to the Commissioner of the General Land Office, Josiah Meigs; and he and the Secre tary of War, Mr. Crawford, secured the repeal of so much of the law as applied to Michigan. They were stimulated by a second report of the surveyors, who found the country worse and worse as they proceeded. In April, 1816, the law was changed, and lands were granted instead, in Illinois and Mis souri. This postponed settlement, but it saved Michigan from one of the most troublesome sources of litigation which has ever vexed any country. It was in that way a benefit. But the report of the surveyors is one of the unaccountable things of those days. Surveyors are usually good judges of land, and not likely to be deceived by the water standing on the surface of the ground where the nature of the vegetation shows the soil cannot be marshy or sterile." In the spring of 1840, the Surveyor General gave contracts to survey about half of Alpena county, the whole of Presque Isle county, the most, if not all, of the county of Cheboygan, to John Hodgson, Sylvester Sibley, Henry Brevoort and Henry Mullet, all of whom, with their surveying parties, left Detroit soon after the opening of navigation in the spring, on the steamer Madison, for Presque Isle. The writer was employed by John Hodgson, as an assistant surveyor or compass-man. 16 ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. Hodgson had the sub-division of towns 31 and 32 north, and from range 4 east, to Lake Huron shore. We all had a jolly time on the boat going up, and were all landed, with our sup plies, at Presque Isle. This was a wooding station for the steamboats going round the lakes, and the only inhabited spot at that time, between Mackinaw and Bay City. It was also the first fishing station on Lake Huron shore, north of Saginaw Bay. The fishermen used hooks, seines and gill-nets, and had considerable trade with the boats, in furnishing them with fresh fish. After stopping a few days at Presque Isle, to make ar rangements for leaving the supplies, and packing them to the work, which supplies were to be carried on the backs of men and horses, the several parties started for their work. The writer, in making the survey near the mouth of the An-a-ma- kee-zebe, or Thunder river, as it was called by the Indians, dis covered the site of a house that had been burned, sopie square timber, and an excavation for a mill-race; and on enquiry since, was told that Mr. Donseman, from Mackinaw; with other par ties from the State of New York, had, some time prior, attempt ed to build a sawmill at that place, and were driven away fi-om their purpose by the Indians. In running the section line be tween sections 22 and 23, on approaching the river near the foot of Second street, city of Alpena, we were discovered by some Indians, who were camped a little further down the river, and who were all drunk. They consisted of the Thunder Bay band, excepting Sog-on-e-qua-do and his family, who were camped at the "Ox-Bow," a peninsula made by a large bend in Thunder Bay river, and who gave us our dinner of boiled stur geon the day before, which we all ate with a relish. It was the first sturgeon the writer had ever eaten, and being very hungry, thought it very nice. As soon as the Indians saw us, they be.. gan to gather themselves up as best they could, and approach ed us, having the old chief, Mich-e-ke-wis, or Spirit of the West Wind, at their head. They all looked very sour, and did ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. 17 not return our salutations. The old chief came very close to the writer, and said, in the Indian language: "White man no good. This place is all mine; you go away." The writer re plied that the Great Chief at Washington had sent us to run lines and explore the country, and we did not like it, and as soon as we had done our work we would go away. He, finding I could answer him in his own language, and noticing that the writer gave some orders to the men, which they obeyed, said to the writer; "Are you chief?" and being answered in the af firmative, he said, "You are welcome to do your work." Up to this time not a word had been spoken by any of the accompany ing Indians; but when the old chief said "You are welcome to do your work," their countenances changed, and they all said, "aw-ne-gwi-naw," which is "certainly." Then each one took our hand and said, "bo-zoo." The old chief then said: "We have had a big drunk; we can give you nothing to eat or drink, for we have used up all the women left us to eat; but if you will go to the wig-warn, I will show you my regalia." We went with him, and he showed what the white man seldom gets a look at. The old chief took from a trunk, a large broadcloth blanket, worked with beads and ribbons, a large otter skin to bacco bag, called a "koosh-kip-it-aw-gun," and elaborately worked with beads and ribbons, a large peace-];/ipe, beaded leg gings, cap and moccasins. He had a splendid worsted sash, which was presented to him by the British Government, and beaded belts to wear round his leggings, to keep them in place, and some other things of minor importance. For the writer this was a feast. We borrowed the Indians' only canoe, and crossed the river to camp, putting it out of their power to an noy us during the night. In the morning, we used the Indi ans' canoe to cross the river, and after establishing the corner of sections 23, 24, 26 and 27, in township 31 north, of range.8 east, and doing some meandering on the bay and river, we bid, as we supposed, a long adieu to the first experiences at the 18 ALPENA COUNTY — PBELIMINABY EEMAEKS. mouth of "Thunder river." The Thunder Bay baud of Indians then numbered about twenty-five, with Mich-e-ke-wis as council chief. He had seen nearly, if not quite, one hundred winters; was admired by his people for the wisdom of his counsel, and had much influence over them, in favor of the British Govern ment, whose friend he was, and continued to be as long as he lived. He drove Mr. Douseman and his party away from the river, and showed the same disposition toward the writer, who probably saved himself and party some trouble, in being able to speak a httle of the Indian language. He was the father of a large family, some of whom were then — 1840 — grown up men and women. The names of his older sons were Wa-ga- maw-ba, Ba-ga-nog-ga, and Nee-zhe-was-waw-ba. If his rec ord was right, he had seen one hundred and ten years, ere he went to his Father, in the beautiful "hunting grounds towards the setting sun." He once said to the writer, at Ossineke: "I remember when these pine trees here were very small." Some four or five years prior to his decease, which _ occurred about 1857, he called all his children and people together, and told them that he was nearly blind, and no longer of any value to his family or his people. He then gave one of his sons, whom he had educated for his successor, his regalia, before described, and installed him in his office as council chief, and presiding over all their religious ceremonies. He then distributed his goods among his children ; and never after was he seen dressed in anything but a common Indian blanket. He thus pre pared hirnself to meet the "pale horse and rider," worthy the admiration of those who, in a Christian point of view, think themselves much wiser and better, and who style him "The poor Indian, whose untutored mind Sees God In the clouds, and hears Him in the wind." ¦Sog-on-e-qua-do, or Thunder Cloud, was a war chief. He was an O-taw-waw. He was not very well liked by his people, on account of his temperance proclivities; he was very much ALPENA COUNTY PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. 19 opposed to the Indians getting drunk, and he lectured them too severely to please them. He was the only Indian the writer knew who could keep whiskey in his wig-wam and not get drunk. He was brave and independent; none of his people ever wished to oppose him, or measure war clubs; nor did any avaricious trader ransack his shanty for furs, without his con sent; and he could quiet an Indian drunken row in "double quick." He was honorable and scrupulously honest, as the following incident will show: In 1848, the writer cut and put up two stacks of wild hay, at Squaw Point. Late in the fall, Sog-on-e-qua-do's boys were playing near one of the stacks, and set it on fire, and it was consumed. He immediately came to see the writer, at Ossineke, and enquired of him what the certain stack of hay was worth. The writer, not knowing what his object was, mentioned the value of the hay to him. Sog- on-e-qua-do then said: "My boys, in their play, set it on fire and have burned it, and I have brought you these furs to pay you in part for it, and next spring I will bring you the balance." Being somewhat surprised at so beautiful an example of the Golden Eule, by a savage, the writer said to him; that, as he had been honest enough to come and inform him of the fact, and had offered to pay for the hay, he, the writer, would charge him only what the hay cost him to put it up; and that the furs he had brought would pay the amount. He looked at the writer a moment, and then putting his hand on his breast, said: "I am a man ; I will pay the balance in the spring." The win ter passed and spring came, and so did Sog-on-e-qua-do with a bundle of nice furs, worth much more than the whole stack of hay, and threw them down, and insisted that the writer should take them for the balance on the hay. Here is an act that challenges our admiration, and which is worthy to be placed on record as parallel with that instructive one related in the twen ty-third chapter of Genesis, where Abraham bought the ceme tery of Ephron, among the children of Heath. He bought a 20 ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. lot in Alpena, and built a frame house on it. He also built a small house at Squaw Point, where he lived much of his time, using a cook stove in his house, and cultivating a small piece of ground. He died, believing in the traditions and religion of his fathers, and was buried after the manner of the Indians, except that the Eev. F. N. Barlow preached a funeral sermon, and he was laid in the cemetery of the whites. Shortly after he was buried, his grave was desecrated by some unscrupulous thief, who took from the grave his gun and some other things that had been deposited in the grave with him, to use on his journey to the hunting ground beyond the setting sun. He left one son, by the name of No-quash-cum, who lives oh the same lands that his father occupied before him. Ba-zhick-co-ba, or Put Down One, was a strong, athletic man, who supported himself and family entirely by hunting and fishing. He was much in favor of the Canadian Govern ment; despised the idea of living like a white man, and loved his "Scho-ta-waw-boo," — fire soup — dearly. Nain-a-go, or Ant, was a good hunter and a companion of Ba-zhick-co-ba in his trapping and hunting expeditions, and lived after his fashion. These men and their families compos ed the Thunder Bay band of Indians. After finishing up the survey work with Mr. Hodgson, the party went out to Presque Isle. Hei-e the writer hired with Sylvester Sibley, to help him finish up his surveys. The im provements at Presque Isle were owned by Lemuel Crawford, (^f Cleveland, Ohio, and consisted of a dock, store, and frame dwelling, a log barn, and a few log shanties. They were all built on Uncle Sam's land, which had not yet been surveyed, and therefore it was thought advisable by those in command, that they should be on the best of terms with the surveyors. As the survey of the harbor and its vicinity was assigned to the writer, he was treated with very kind regard by the propri etor and his people. Here the writer made the acquaintance ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. 21 of Simeon M. Holden, William Cullings and Robert McMullen. They were mechanical geniuses, and well calculated to live in and promote the growth of a new country. Mr. McMullen had the greatest variety of talent, working when occasion required, in the blacksmith shop, the carpenter shop, the cooper shop, at boat building, and millwriting. Mr. Holden subsequently moved to Thunder Bay Island, where he built the first frame dwelling in Alpena county, in 1846. He was the first perma nent settler in the county, his occupation being fishing with gill-nets. After residing on the island a few years, he moved to where Harrisville is now located, where, in company with Crosier Davison, he built the first sawmill in Alcona county. After working the mill a few years, he sold his interest in the property, and moved to Ann Arbor, Michigan, where he was waylaid, murdered and robbed of five hundred dollars. Messrs. Cullings and McMullen still survive, and reside in Alpena and Alcona counties. It was late in the fall when the surveyors finished their work and returned to Presque Isle, on their way home. It had been blowing a gale of wind for some time, so that no boats had gone up the lakes for a while, and only one or two was ex pected down that season. Among the steamers expected down was the Madison, which brought the surveyors up, and which was a high pressure boat, the exhaust of which could be heard for fifteen miles away. We were all very anxious to get this boat, for should we miss it, we might be compeHed to travel on foot to Flint, if not to Pontiac, a distance of about two hundred miles. A watch was set, day and night, to catch the first sound of the Madison's exhaust and signal her in, and to make doubly sure of her calling. After anxiously waiting for about a week, at 9 P. M. the watch yelled "Steamboat," and for ten minutes every one shouted at the top of his voice, "Steamboat! Steam boat!" Such a shout Presque Isle never heard before, and probably will never hear again. The Madison came into the harbor, and we all boarded her for Detroit. 22 ALPENA COUNTY — PBELIMINABY EEMAEKS. The Government lands in Alpena and adjoining counties were offered for sale by the United States, in 1843. In the fall of the same year, the writer again visited Alpena county, accom panied by a man by the name of Youngs, whom the writer hir ed as a hunter and trapper, for the purpose of studying the na ture and habits of animals, and obtaining their skulls as speci mens of phrenology. Youngs stayed in the woods until Feb ruary, when he came out to Thunder Bay Island, leaving the writer alone in the forest, who stayed until May, and obtained many fine specimens, some of which he now has, of the otter, beaver, lynx, marten, raccoon, fisher, bear and mink. These animals were then very plentiful, and easily taken. The writer learned much in regard to the nature and habits of these ani mals, and unlearned very much that he had learned from books prior to his going into the woods. Many who write works on Natural History, are not them selves acquainted with the animals or things they describe, for they have never interrogated or examined nature for themselves, but have taken their knowledge from the schools, and the re positories of dead men's hearsay knowledge and speculation. The writer's inexperience in trapping did not afford him a very large quantity of furs, but what pleased and paid him for his . trouble and privation, was the fact that he found, upon exam ination, and comparing the phrenological formation of the skulls of those animals he had studied, with their nature and habits, they harmonized beautifully, and in every respect with each other, and established in the mind of the writer, beyond a cavil, tho fundamental principles of phrenology. If any man, however skeptical he may be, but willing to know truth, will go with me into the forest, and there study the habits of the beaver and the fisher, and compare their skulls with their habits, and with each other, he can not hesitate one moment to acknowledge the principal truths claimed for that science which enables us to know ourselves. In order to further prosecute his studies, ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. 23 and at the same time make a living, the writer prepared him self as well as he knew how, for the further study of animals, and trapping for their furs. He hired a Frenchman, who pre tended to understand trapping, but when the little schooner was ready to sail for Thunder Bay river, he refused to go. The writer, supposing he would find some one on his way, that he could hire, continued his joui-ney, without finding any one to hire, and was landed on the 18th day of September, 1844, at the mouth of Thunder Bay river, alone. From that time to the 20th of May following, he saw not the face of a white man — for he had no glass — or heard the crack of any rifle but his own. On coming down to the mouth of the river, in the spring, he found W ashington Jay, his wife and daughter, and a man by the name of William Dagget, who had moved there late in the fall, from Thunder Bay Island, for the purpose of making some staves for fish barrels. They built a log house, near Second and River streets, in Alpena, and cut timber and made some staves, on the present site of the city; but the most of their cutting was done near the great bend in the river, called the "Ox Bow." This was the second house built by white men on the present site of Alpena, and Mrs. Jay and her daughter Emma were, in all probability, the first white women that had ever visited the place; they certainly were the first to live here. In September, 1844, Jonathan Burtch and Anson Eldred purchased two pieces of land at the mouth of Devil river, it be ing the first lands purchased of the United States in Alpena county, and the patents were issued in 1848. In the fall and winter of the same year — 1844 — they erected a water-mill on Devil river, with two upright sash saws, and driven by two old fashioned "flutter wheels," and cut with both saws, when run twenty -four hours, the large sum of eight thousand feet of lum ber. This was the first sawmill erected in Alpena county. At this time mulley saws were more generally used, and were re ceiving many improvements; but large circular saws, for cut- 24 ALPENA COUNTY— PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. ting lumber, were yet in the creation of genius. The mill that cut two million feet of lumber was Al on the list, and those were "few and far between." Lumbermen did not then buy large tracts of timber lands, to lumber on, for they could cut all they wanted on Government lands, without being called "timber thieves," or asked for pay for the timber. This state of things continued until 1850, when Uncle Sam came down upon the lumbermen, like an avalanche, and threatened destruc tion to them all. But a compromise was had, by which the lumbermen were to pay the costs made by the Government, and a promise "to do so no more." In 1845, Mr. Burtch located forty acres more at Devil river, and Mr. Eldred located two fractions on Thunder Bay river. The writer sold his winter's catch of furs, in Detroit, for two hundred eighty dollars in silver, by stipulation, and two hun dred eighty dollars in paper money. Furs being sold in for eign countries, were about the only product that would com mand the specie at this time. The writer then purchased a small stock of goods of B. G. Stimson, Theodore H. Eaton and Moore & Foot, of Detroit, Michigan, and took them to Thun der Bay Island, where he built the first store in Alpena county. Thunder Bay Island had now grown to a large fishing station, numbering thirty-one fishing boats and one hundred and sixty persons. Their catch of fish in 1846, was a little over twelve thousand barrels. The people were mostly from Ohio and the Saginaws. In the summer of 1847, the writer purchased the Devil River mill property of Jonathan Burtch, and moved there late in the fall of the same year. The place was called by the Indians, "Shing-gaw-ba-waw-sin-eke-go-ba-wat." Shin-gaw- ba was, as the Indians believe, the name of a Divine Chief, who lived a long time ago. He told his people that, after his death, his spirit would come back to where these stones were placed, for the presents his people might deposit near them. The In dians do verily believe that his spirit does come back to these ALPENA COUNTY — PBELIMINABY EEMAEKS. 25 stones, to receive the spirit of the things they present to him near these stones. This belief has the coloring of Spiritualism. Waw-sin-eke, signifies Image Stones. Go-ba-wat, signifies to put down more things than one. When the writer first vis ited Devil river, in 1839, he saw, near the mouth of the river, two large stones standing together. One was a gneiss rock, with bands of quartz, and having the appearance of being worn into its present shape by the action of the water. It weighed about three hundred pounds. The other stone was about four feet long, and in shape like the trunk of a aian's body, minus head, legs and arms. It had very much the appearance of be ing moulded from lake sand, and concreted with some substance having the appearance of bark. It was hard on the outside, but soft and easily crumbled where excluded from the atmosphere. At this time, near and around the stones, were large quantities of pipes, tobacco, beads, ear jewels, silver broaches, bell-but tons and other kinds of trinkets. When the township was or ganized, the writer named it "Waw-sin-eke," but, like many other Indian names, it was misspelled Os-sin-eke, the whole Indian name of the place being too long to retain. A fisher man came to Devil river while the writer was absent, and, want ing some anchor stones for his nets, seized the Shin-gaw-ba stones and carried them to the bay, thus depriving the place of valuable relics and Shiu-gaw-ba of his presents. These stones are found through all the country of the Chippewas. The In dians say, that a long time ago, some Iroquois captured two Chippewas, near Devil river, and. put them and their image stones in a canoe, and started across the bay. When they reached near the middle of the bay, they threw the stones into the water, when, suddenly the water boiled and spouted up, and capsized the canoe and drowned the Iroquois, while the Chip pewa prisoners succeeded in saving their lives, retaining the canoe and reaching the place from whence they started. When they went upon the land, they found, to their surprise, the 26 ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS. stones had preceded them, and were standing in their places, as they did before they were moved. Whether their story is true or false, the stones failed to capsize the fisherman when he threw them into the bay, or came out of the water since. The river was called "Eeviere Au Diable," by the early mail car riers, who spoke the French language, and who sometimes in the fall and spring found much difficulty in traveling the large marsh between the river and the south point of Thunder Bay. So the river was named after his Satanic Majesty, not because it was a bad river, but because it kept bad company. LOCATION OF LANDS. In 1849 and 1850, Robert Dunlap and E. Baily, of Chicago, Illinois, purchased of the United States, the lands round the mouth of Thunder Bay river. In 1855, they sold these lands to John Oldfield, James K. Lockwood, John S. Minor and George N. Fletcher, for thirty dollars per acre; Oldfield own ing a quarter interest, Lockwood and Minor a quarter interest, and Fletcher owning a half interest. The following letter, handed the writer by G. N. Fletcher, Esq., indicates the first visit of the proprietors to Alpena, prior to making the "Baily purchase": Port Huron, Aug. 4tb, 1855. G. N. Fletchee, Esq., St. Clair. Deab Sib: I propose to take my vessel, the John Minor, and in com pany with my partner and other parties interested at Thunder Bay river, to make an exploring expedition to that place. Am ple time will be given to make all necessary observations at that place, at as moderate expense and with as much comfort as circumstances will permit. Your company, together with ALPENA COUNTY — PEELIMINAEY BEMAEKS. 27 any persons you would like to take with you, will be acceptable. Please to advise me, by note, if you will or will not go, so that I may give you notice of our sailing, which we propose to make about the 1st Sept. Very truly yours, (Signed,) J. K. LOCKWOOD. David D. Oliver purchased some lands at Devil river, in 1851, and in August of the same year, W. L. P. Little, of East Saginaw, purchased a fraction or two, on the bay shore, v/hich would be in the northeast fractional quarter of section 27, in town 31 north, of range 8 east, in his own name, as security for the purchase money; but the purchase was made for Walter Scott, for a fishery. Scott moved his family to Thunder Bay river in the fall of the same year and tried the fishing, and found it a failure, on these lands. Scott then, considering the lands of no value, failed to pay for them, and Little, as he thought, was left with a piece of poor property on his hands. Scott traded with the Indians and looked up pine lands for Lewis & Graves, John Trowbridge & Bros., and some others, until September, 1856, when Messrs. Lockwood & Fletcher & Co., desirous of getting him away with his whiskey, before their men should come up to work, bought all his buildings, and some other things, for the sum of one hundred and fifty dollars. Scott left Alpena in the spring of 1857. Early in 1857, Mr. Little offered his property at Thunder Bay river, to the writer, for five hundred dollars, half down, and the balance in a year. Although the writer was consider ed by some of his contemporaries as extravagant and "luna" in regard to the value of property in Alpena county, and its future growth, yet he was not controlled by the moon, or any other influences, enough to accept this Little property, which now comprises a large portion of the best residences in the city. 28 ALPENA COUNTY— PEELIMINAEY EEMABKS. The writer thinks it will now be conceded by those who have noted the rapid developement and growth of the city and coun ty, that his ideas did not reach the reality by as much as they thought him above it. Subsequently Mr. Little' came up in the price of his property at Alpena, to fifteen hundred dollars, and sold it to S. E. Hitchcock, who now resides upon a portion of it. He subsequently made it an addition to the village, now city, of Alpena. The Union School house stands on a portion of this property. ' i In 1850, Congress passed an act, granting aill the swamp lands to the several States, but the United States Land Offices continued to sell the lands as before the grant was made, until the latter part of 1859. In 1852, Congress passed an act, granting seven hundred and fifty thousand acres of land for the purpose of constructing a ship canal around the falls of the Sault Ste. Marie, and thereby connecting the commerce of the lower lakes with that of Lake Superior. A company was duly organized to prosecute the work, known and styled the "Sault Ste. Marie Ship Canal Co.," and in 1853, commenced selecting their lands. Parties of "land lookers" were sent out by the company, into all parts of the State, and finding large bodies of good pine in Alpena county and vicinity, it led otijer parties, desirous of purchasing pine lands, to look in the same direc tion. In 1853, George N. Fletcher employed Daniel Carter, Esq,, to look up and locate some pine lands on the waters of Thunder Bay river. Mr. Fletcher purchased the lands in the name of Thomas Campbell, of Boston, Mass., about eight thou sand acres, up to 1857, in which he owned an interest, and he has been a purchaser and holder of pine lands in Alpena county ever since. John Trowbridge & Bros, commenced locating pine lands in 1854 or '55, and in two or three years had pur chased about thirty thousand acres. Frank H. Page and David D. Oliver located and purchased about two thousand acres. G. S. Lester purchased, near Turtle Lake, about nine hundred ALPENA COUNTY — PBELIMINABY EEMABKS. 29 acres. Lewis & Graves, of Detroit, purchased about three hun dred acres; and Elisha Taylor, of Detroit, purchasfed about five hundred acres, near the rapids; and Capt. J. J. Maiden pur chased a lot in section 27, town 31 north, of range 8 east. This comprises most, if not all, the land holders and lands purchas ed in the county, prior to its organization, in 1857. SWsW CHAPTER 11 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL CHABACTEE OP THE COUNTY AND VICINITY. Alpena county is bounded on the north by Presque Isle county, east by Thunder Bay, south by Alcona county, and on the west by Montmorency county, which, at present — 1876 — is attached to Alpena county for judicial purposes. It includes townships 29, 30, 31 and 32 north, of ranges 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 east, taking in all of Thunder Bay and the islands. It has an area of about one thousand four hundred and forty square miles. It contains approximately three hundred ninet3'-one thousand six hundred eighty acres of land. The surface descends a little to the south and east, and is from gently rolling to rolling. The tim ber is of great variety, and is no indication of the soil on which it grows. Sometimes a rich argillo-calcareous loam is covered with white and black birch, aspen, balsam, tamarack, cedar and a few small sugar, hemlock, and norway and white pine. The principal timber is pine, hemlock, sugar, beech, cedar, balsam, white and black birch, black ash, elm lynn, poplar, spruce, etc. The soil is mostly a rich loam, reposing on limestone rock, and containing all the elements necessary to make the agricultural capabilities of Alpena county compare favorably with any coun ty in the State. A few spots of arenaceous soil is met with, but it contains large quantities of carbonate of lime and mag nesia. It also contains considerable ammonia, and it onl}' re quires a little addition of vegetable matter, and a sprinkling of salt, to make it very productive, so long as the ground does not suffer for want of rain. The salt produces chemical action in the soil, and dissolves the silica. On this kind of land, the seed should be put in with a drill or hoe, so that it will be cov ered the proper depth, and the land prepared by a roller, so TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 31 as to enable the soil to hold the moisture, and in no case should the land be raised above a level. Thunder Bay river enters Thunder Bay on the southwest quarter of section 23, in township 31 north, of range 8 east, and is the principal stream in the county. The river, with its branches and their tributaries, take their rise in, or run through, the counties of Montmorency, Oscoda, Alcona, Presque Isle and Alpena, and drains and affords log-running facilities for thirty-nine townships. The river is 197 feet wide where it di vides the city, on First street, but is much wider between this point and the mill dam. With nine feet of water on the bar, and fourteen inside, it is navigable only three-fourths of a mile. The river, from its mouth to the Broadwell rapids, by its ser pentine course, is about five miles; and the river rises thirteen feet. It is from four to six rods wide. Near the section line between 15 and 22, the river passes over a limestone ledge, now covered by water of the dam, nine feet four inches, which the writer believes to be identical with the limestone found at Sunken Lake, From the foot of the rapids to Trowbridge's dam is 231 chains, by the river, and the fall of the water from the summit level of the Trowbridge pond to the foot of the rapids is sixty-five feet ; and the river is from eight to twenty rods wide. At the time the writer made the survey, he noticed at'One place an exceptional dip in the rock, a short distance above the Broadwell pond, where the dip of the rock was east, but was only three and one-half feet in forty rods. The Trow- bride'e dam slacks the water up the river a short distance above the North Branch, and the perpendicular fall of water from this point to the bay is seventy-eight feet. From the level of the Trowbridge pond to the head of Long Eapids, the rise can not be less than seventy-eight feet more. The river is rapid above this placfe, and runs over limestone ledges, in town 31 north, of range 4 east, town 30 north, of range 3 east, and has a rise of not less than fifty feet more, making a total fall of water from 32 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. range one to Thunder Bay, of two hundred and sixty leet. All the tributaries are rapid streams, showing no lack of drainage for the land. Devil river is a small stream, taking its rise in a small lake near Thunder Bay river, and runs south through Mud Lake, and empties into Thunder Bay, twelve miles south of Alpena. It has a log-running capacity for about six miles. Long Lake is a beautiful sheet of inland water, being in Al pena and Presque Isle counties. It is eight miles long and from one to one and a half miles wide, surrounded by good farming lands, densely covered with hardwood. The waters are well stocked with fish, the principal being pike, bass and sunfish. The outlet of Long Lake, called by the writer "Crys tal river," from the clear, crystal appearance of the water, is a large stream in the spring, and dwindles to a small brook in the summer. It runs nearly east from the outlet to Lake Hu ron, and on its way passes through two small lakes, mostly sur rounded by high bluffs of limestone. In one of these lakes is a subterranean passage for the water, of sufficient size to pass nearly the entire stream during the lowest stages of water in the summer. The city of Alpena is located at the mouth of Thunder Bay river, which enters Thunder Bay near its head, in forty-fifth degree of north latitude, and eighty -three degrees and fifty min utes west longitude, in sections 22, 23 and 27, in town 31 north, of range 8 east, and is the county seat of Alpena county. It is, by section line, twenty miles west and one hundred and ninety-two miles north of Detroit, and twenty miles east and ninety-six miles north of Bay City. It is north from Ossineke twelve miles, and west from Thunder Bay Island twelve miles, and south from Presque Isle harbor about eighteen miles. At, the time the writer first visited the place now occu pied by the city of Alpena, there was, on the east side of the river near the foot of Dock street, a narrow ridge of land ex- TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 33 tending east, along the bay shore, for about eighty rods. Near the river, and extending to the bay, was a beautiful oak grove, containing about four acres, where the Indians camped, feasted, drank their "fire soup," sang their war songs, danced their war, religious and festive dances, held their councils, and buried their dead and feasted their spirits. North of this, and near the river, was a narrow ridge, crossed by a small stream, on its way to Thunder Bay river, and covered with a thicket of white birch, aspen, cedar, and a sprinkling of norway and white pine, and east of this was a dense cedar and tamarack swamp. This ridge widened as it extended north, until it reached the vicinity of Walnut street, where it was about forty rods wide, and cov ered with a belt of large timber, of hemlock and pine. It thence extended north, into open norway pine plains. On this ridge was a deep- worn Indian trail, from the mouth of the river to the then rapids, near the section line between sections 15 and 22, in town 31 north, of range 8 east, and now covered by the mill pond, where the Indians fished for sturgeon, pike, pickerel and suckers, which were in abundance, and sometimes whitefish. From this point were two trails, one extending north, through section 16, to Long Lake, and the other extend ing up the river. On the west side of the river, also, was a small ridge. A line, commencing near the foot of Second street, and thence running to the corner of Chisholm street and Washington avenue, and from thence reaching the bay a little below Messrs. Campbell & Potter's dock, would separate the ridge from the swamp. All of that portion east and south of this line, and peaching to the bay, was a sandy ridge, covered with small pine, white birch and yellow oak; and all west of this line, for a mile or more, was a dense tamarack and cedar swamp, filled with water, and well stocked with batrachians, whose loud prate gave token of approaching spring. By the united efforts of thousands, the timber has been removed, the swamp drained of its water, and the croakers, like the smoke 34 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. of the Indian's wig-wam, are growing less every year, and soon will be known as only a something of the past. This swamp, so abhorrent a few years ago, has become valuable property, on which, in 1876, is standing beautiful residences, the abode of intelligence, peace and plenty. From Second street, north a few rods, was a small brook, winding its way to the river, and bounded by a cedar swamp about fifteen rods wide. North of this swamp was a piece of high land, containing about thirty acres, which was well timbered with- white pine and hemlock. This ridge narrowed to a strip near the river, and extending north to the norway and spruce pine plains. On this ridge, also, was a deep and well marked Indian trail, which had been tramped by moccasined feet for many centuries. It led to the rapids, before mentioned, and thence to the big bend of the river, near Messrs. Campbell & Potter's sawmill, where it be came two, one leading up the river, and the other following the • sandy ridge to Shin-gaw-ba-waw-sin-eke-go-ba-wot — now Ossi neke. These Indian trails were of much importance to the early surveyors, land-lookers and settlers, being the principal means of communication by land between various parts of the country. These were called "paths" by the first explorers and settlers, and this is the reason for finding a "Pathmaster" in the list of the first officers of the township of Fremont. GEOLOGICAL. Geologists have represented the geological formation of the Lower Peninsula of Michigan, as a slightly depressed basin, having its center in or near Jackson and Ingham counties. As you travel any direction from this central point, you pass over the outcropping edge of various lithological strata, in a de scending series, until you reach the granite formation; hence, Prof. N. H. Winchell, in his notes on the geology of the Thun der Bay region, published in the Pioneer, in 1870, says: "As one goes toward the north from Saginaw Bay, along the shore TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 35 of Lake Huron, he passes over the outcropping edges of rocks lower and lower in the geological series, until he reaches Lake Superior. The same is known of the Michigan side of Lake Michigan, northward from Grand Eapids." The writer be lieves this , to be true, only in part, and as confined to the shores of the lakes, but not true in regard to the interior of the State. His travels and explorations in nearly all parts of the State, have led him to the conclusion that the interior of the northern portion of the Southern Peninsula has not been sufficiently ex plored by competent geologists, as to warrant them in coming to any definite conclusion concerning the geological structure of this region. A little observation will teach us that all rivers j wherever they run over stratified rocks, do not run with the dip, but over the outcropping edges. Whenever they run with the dip, they seldom show the rocks; the streams are mostly sluggish, and the rocks generally covered with alluvial deposit. This being the case, the sources of rivers indicate the highest portion of country ; and a little study of their courses and their descent, and the rocks over which they run, will give us an ap proximate idea of the geological structure of the district of country through which they run. In referring to the rivers of the Lower Peninsula, we find the St. Joseph, Kalamazoo, and Grand rivers rising in the interior of the southern part of the Southern Peninsula, and carrying the summit level east of the center of the State, and running west and northwest with a moderate descent, over the outcropping edges of rocks, dipping slightly toward the center, empty their waters into Lake Mich igan. The Shiawassee river, rising in the same vicinity, runs north and mingles with the waters of Saginaw river, while the Clinton, Huron and Eaisiu rivers take their rise on the same summit level, and pour their waters into St. Clair Lake and Detroit river. After admitting that these rivers run over the outcropping edges of rocks dipping slightly toward the center of this geological basin, then allow the writer to invite the 86 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. reader to go with him into Eoscommon, Crawford and Otsego counties, where we will reach another summit level, which is estimated to be one thousand feet above the level of the lakes. Here the Muskegon and Manistee, two large rivers, take their rise, and after running south and southwest, over ledges of rock dipping slightly to the northeast, discharge their waters into Lake Michigan. The Cheboygan, Pigeon and Black rivers rise in Otsego county, run north over ledges of limestone, dip ping south, and lose themselves in the lakes of the Cheboj'gan river. The Thunder Bay and Au Sable rivers take their heads in small lakes in Otsego and Crawford counties, run east, with a rapid descent, over outcropping rocks, which dip to the west and northwest— with some local exceptional dip to the east, near Thunder Bay — pour their waters into Lake Huron. The Tittabawassee river, commencing in, and running near Eoscom mon county, runs south, and loses itself in Saginaw river. The Boardman, Elk and Pine rivers, take their sources on or near the summit level, and run west, into Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. Here we have another well defined geological basin, which, to practical geologists, is very little known, and especially that portion comyjrising the counties of Alpena and Montmorency. In 1859 and 1860, Prof. A. Winchell made some geological explorations in Alpena county and its vicinity, and subsequently it was visited by Prof. N. H. Winchell, but neither of them carried their explorations far enough to deter mine, in the faintest degree, the geological character of Alpena county; and they are not certain in regard to the super-position of the rocks, or the groups to which they belong. But thei most important fact, entirely overlooked by geologists, in regard the geological formation of the Lower Peninsula, is the depres sion between those two basins. A line drawn from the mouth of Saginaw river to the mouth of the Muskegon river, passes nearly in the bottom of a synclinal valley between the two places. The Tittabawassee river running south from the north- TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 37 ern basin, and the Shiawassee river running north from the southern basin; these rivers, with their branches, and other streams, establish the important fact that there is a depression running entirely across the Southern Peninsula, near its center, and dividing it into two parts or basins. This being a fact, we find the gypsum beds at Alabaster, and coal at Eifle river, to belong to the northern basin. Prof. N. H. Winchell says, in one of his notes to the Alpena County Pioneer, published in 1870: "There are various interesting problems, yet unsolved, connected with the geology of the Thunder Bay region. The foregoing 'notes' have merely indicated the outlines of its prominent features. These indications even, are too often bas ed on conjecture, rather than actual observation." Although the explorations now made are indefinite and of no available benefit to the county, yet they affoi'd important suggestions, and will assist materially in any further survey ; and, therefore, the writer has copied from the reports, all that he deemed of any probable value. In the groupings of the rocks in this region of the State, all the reports are vague and ambiguous, if not contradictory. Prof. A. Winchell, in his report for 1850 and 1860, says: "The elevated limestone region, constituting the northern por tion of the Peninsula, consists of the higher members of the Upper Heklerburg Group, which gradually subsides toward the south, and in the southern part of Cheboygan county, as nearly as can be judged, sinks beneath the shaly hmestones of the Hamilton Group." In the "Atlas of the State of Michigan," Winchell calls these limestones the "Little Traverse Group," and says: "This is composed chiefly of the Hamilton Group proper, of the New York geologists; but as the lower limits of the Hamilton have not yet been clearly fixed upon in the State, we apply the above terms to a series of limestones outcropping in the vicinity of Little Traverse Bay and Thunder Bay, and constituting physically a single mass. They have been the sub- 38 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. ject of considerable study. In 1860, we made an official sur vey of the Little Traverse strata; in 1866, a special survey and report, and in 1869, the ground was again officially examined, and as the result of all our studies, we submit the following generalized arrangement : "IV. Chert Beds. "HI. Bluff vesluular oiagnesian limestone overlaid by character istic crlnoldal beds. "II Bituminous shales and limestones, composed of (b) Acervu- laria beds above, and (a) Bryozoa beds below. "I. Pale-bluff massive limestones, comprising (b) Cenostroraa beds above, and Fish beds below." The total thickness was set down provisionally at 141 feet, which is probably too low. This grouping will apparently hold good over extensive region. On the Geological Map of Michi gan, this group occupies the shore north from Little Traverse Bay to Thunder Bay, and round the • bay as far as Ossineke. Prof. N. H. Winchell says: "The Hamilton limestones and shales, and the Huron shales, furnish the geological basis of the Thunder Bay region" ; but he is somewhat puzzled in re gard to the arrangement and super-position of the various strata, as will appear by his remarks, before quoted, and by the following to the Pioneer: "It has been remarked that the natural dip of the strata is toward the center of the State, in all places. This, however, is so slight as to be almost impercepti ble to the eye; and hence, the natural beds generally appear horizontal, unless local causes have produced exceptional dip." Now, it has been found that rocks which underlie the Thunder Bay district are much affected by an exceptional dip. Along the lake shore, and in the limits of Thunder Bay, the excep tional dip eastward is always found. This is true as far north as Nine Mile Point, but it is not noticeable within Thunder Bay, and as far inland as Broadwell's mill, dip toward the bay. This downthrow of the rocks accounts for the occurrence of higher members in the Hamilton at the mouth of Thunder Bay TOPOGB.^PHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 39 river than at the "Big Eapids," thirty miles west. Prof. A. Winchell, in his report of 1859-60, page 69, says: "On the east side of Thunder Bay Island, the rocks of the Helderberg group are seen overlain by a black bituminous limestone, abounding in Atrypareticularis, and numerous other Brachio- pods allied to the types of this group, (Hamilton). The local ity furnishes, also, two or three species of trilobites, (a) Favo- sites, a large coral allied to Acervularia, and some small fish remains. The same beds are again seen at Carter's quarry, two or three miles above the mouth of Thunder Bay river, and here it contains the same fossils. It is seen again on the south shore of Little Ti-averse Bay, replete with Brachiopods and Bryozoa, and is here eighteen feet thick. The exact order of super-position of the rocks constituting the Hamilton group, has nowhere been observed. The bluffs at Partridge Point, in Thunder Bay, are believed to come in next above the bitumin ous limestones of the localities just cited. The rock here is, at bottom, a bluish, highly argillaceous limestone, with shaly in- terlaminations, the whole wonderfully stocked with the remains of Bryozoa, and not a few encrinital stans. Above these beds, which are but five feet thick, occurs a mass of blue shale, six feet thick; still higher is a massive limestone, below filled with Bryozoa, encrinites and Brachiopods; above, little fossiliferous, the whole with interlaminations of clay. At the upper rapids of Thunder Bay river, still a different but entirely detached section was observed, and it is yet impossible to collocate it with the others. At the upper rapids — northeast quarter of south west quarter of section 7, town 31 north, of range 8 east — on the south side of the river, limestone is seen in a bluff fifteen feet high, dipping east-southeast about five degrees. The whole section exposed is twenty-five feet, made up as follows, from above: 8. Limestone, bluish, flaggy — 8 feet. 7. Limestone, dark gray, highly crystahne, thick bedded, with FavosHes — 9 feet. 40 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 6. Limestone, dark bluish, very fine grained, hard, compact and heavy, with a few reddish streaks and spots, and some en crinital stans and shells, and a few crystals of spar interspersed with occasional seams of the same, in the form of dog-tooth spar. Would make an excellent building stone, and probably would receive a fine polish — 6 feet. 5. Limestone, gray, crystaline, thick bedded, seen in bottom of river. This rock resembles fragments seen at the highest level above the lower rapids — 2 feet. 4. An interval of no exposure. Half a mile higher up the stream, the section is continued, as follows: 3. Limestones, dark, bluish gray, fine grained, compact in layers two to four inches thick; resembles the rock at the lower rapids. , 2. Clay indurated, regularly stratified, rather dark — 3| feet. 1. Calcarious shale, with fossils, forming the bed of the river. The dip at this place is abnormal, and evidently local. The true geological position of the rock must be determined by future investigation. The rocks of the Hamilton group are traced from the south shore of Little Traverse Bay, to near the outlet of Grand Traverse Bay. In speaking of the Huron group he says: "At Sulphur Island, in Thunder Bay, not more than a mile east-southeast from Partridge Point, is found a black bituminous slate, which is believed to overlie the fossili ferous cliffs at the latter place. No undisturbed strata are to be seen on the island, w-hich consists of a mass of fragments, rising a few feet above the water. These slates, or shale, burn with considerable freedom, and it is stated that combustion started from camp fires has, in several instances, continued spontaneously for many months, in one case sixteen months. The cinders resulting from these fires, are still very conspicu ous. These shales furnish no fossils, except a few vegetable impressions, resembling Ccdamites, and some very indistinct impressions of shells. Pyriteous noctules and septaria are TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 41 quite common. At Squaw Point, on the main land, south of the island, near the residence of the old Indian Chief Zwanno- Quaddo, the black slates are found in places, in a cliff ten feet high. The exposed surfaces are very much discolored by oxide of iron. On the opposite side of the State, the black shales are seen at the southeast extremity of Mucqua Lake, in Emmet county; on the north side of Pine Lake, section S, town 33 north, of range 7 west; near the outlet of Grand Traverse Bay, section 3, town 32 north, of range 9 west, and a few miles south of there, and again near the head of Carp Lake, in Leelanau county. The greatest observed thickness in this part of the State, is twenty feet." From the foregoing statement, we draw the very probable conclusion, that three distinct kinds of rock are found outcrop ping on and near the shores of Thunder Bay; that the carbon aceous limestones belong to the Helderberg or Little -Traverse group; that the black bituminous limestones belong to the Hamilton group, and the black slates, seen at Squaw Point, be^- long to the Huron group. That an exceptional dip of the rocks exists in many places in the vicinity oiE Thunder Bay, and that they are much disturbed and displaced. The limestones term ed the "Little Traverse Group," compose the surface rock on and near the lake shore, from Little Traverse Bay, northward to Thunder Bay. In Cheboygan county, they reach as far south as the small lakes of Cheboygan river. In Presque Isle county, they probably reach as far west as tho western extrem ity of Long Lake; and they cover most of that portion of Al pena county north of Thunder Bay. These limestones lie nearly horizontal, as observed along the shore of Lake Huron, and measured from the level of the lake. The high bluffs on the lake, at Crawford's Quarry, are about sixty feet high, and the one opposite Middle Island is of about the same height. The rock from here south, gradually subsides, until it reaches Little Thunder Bay, where it forms an escarpment abutting on 42 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. the bay, about thirty feet perpendicular. They probably dip slightly toward the center of the northern basin, with some local exceptional dip in the vicinity of Thunder Bay ; but the western limits of their disappearance, under higher formations, have not been determined. These hmestones are fine grained, highly crystallized and handsomely clouded, by the unequal distribution of the fossils and bituminous matter they contain. They are susceptible of a high polish, and when the large corals — especially the Favose and Cyathophylloids, which are abundant — are cut and polished, they present a very beautiful and agate-like appearance. Some years since a quarry was opened near Adams' Point, by Mr. Crawford, and is now known as Crawford's Quarry; and subsequently another quarry was opened nearly opposite Middle Island, by Mr. Litchenberg, and large hopes were entertained at the time, that samples would be found large enough to place the Lake Huron marbles with the most esteemed varieties; but no such samples have yet been found, and it is extremely doubtful whether they ever will be, as the rock is very much shattered. If the black bituminous limestones spoken of, belong to the Hamilton group, then this group of rocks in the Thunder Bay region is inconsiderable, not being in any known place more than six feet in thickness; and the same may be said of what is known of the Huron slates noticed at Squaw Point, whose aggregate thickness would prpb- ably exceed one hundred and twenty-five feet. Townships 31, 32 and 33 north, of ranges 6, 7 and 8 east, are remarkable for the abnormal and broken condition of the rocks. Ledges with large cracks and cavernous fissures, sink-holes or basins, in many of which streams of considerable size disappear, and ex ceptional dip in the rocks in various directions. A ledge of limestone, fifty feet high, occurs in the south part of section 35, in town 33 north, of range 7 east, faced on the north by a small lake, where can be seen large cracks and cavernous partings partly filled with detritus. These openings in the rocks run TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 48 with the strike, sometimes for one-fourth of a mile. The dip could not be well ascertained. North of the partings, the rocks were much broken up, but south of the partings they dip in some places, slightly to the southwest. The strike bears south east for about half a mile, in a well defined cliff, and then be comes very much broken and irregular, and which is very dis tinctly marked on the section line between sections 1 and 2, in town 32 north, ot range 7 east. This ledge is traced in a north west direction, into the northeast quarter of section 33, where it is about fifty feet high, and faced on the northeast by a long but narrow lake, apparently very deep. Here, again, are large partings in the rocks, and 'cavernous chambers, similar to the former, but the rocks are more broken and irregular. Here the dip appeared to the west, and the strike bending roiind the west side of the lake, had a trend southeast and north twenty degrees west. In the northwest quarter of section 16, town 82 north, of range 7 east, occurs a similar ledge, about twenty feet high, and also faced on the northeast by a small lake. Here are partings similar to those first mentioned. In the northwest quarter of section 14, in town 32 north, of range 7 east, near the section line, is a very singular basin. It is nearly round, two hundred feet or more in diameter, and about seventy feet deep. It was tunnel-shaped for about forty feet, and then the rocks became perpendicular; reposing at the bottom in what appeared like a cavern, was a small lake of nice, clear water. The writer did not examine the rocks, nor did he ascertain whether the water in the lake was in motion, or in repose. In the southwest quarter of section 5, in the same town and range, is a stream eight feet wide, which approaches from the north west, a cliff of limestone, about twenty feet high, and at the foot of this cliff is an irregular cavernous looking basin, about thirty feet deep, into which the stream descends and disappears at the bottom. But the most remarkable basin in this vicinity is the one known as "Sunken Lake," on the west side of section 44 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 32, in town 83 north, of range 6 east. This is a wonderful and interesting locality, and affords a key, when placed in skill ful hands, to unlock many, if not all, the geological mysteries attached to the Thunder Bay region. When the writer visited this beautiful and interesting spot, in 1866, he was exploring for pine timber, and was not prepared, and did not examine anything critically or geologically. All of his measnrenients and descriptions are only approximate, and are given to assist those who hereafter may desire to examine the several localities, from curiosity or for scientific purposes. ' A few rods west of Sunken Lake, at this time, was a sink-hole of recent formation. It was oval in form at the top, its major axis being about one hundred feet over, was perpendicular on its west side, and about seventy feet deep, with water at the bottom. Commenc ing at the bottom and reaching up the side of the basin for thirty feet, was a coarse grained, buff colored, smooth, compact, argillaceous sandstone, and appeared to be the side of a fault in the sand rock. Eeposing upon this was about three feet of black slates, similar to those met with at Squaw Point ; and resting upon these slates, and reaching to the surface, is a laminated limestone, from thirty to forty feet thick, well and variously stocked with fossils. Near the west side of this '¦'¦hole in the ground," the limestones commence to dip to the east, anc} plunge over the edge of the sandstone, at an angle of about sixty degrees, to the bottom of Sunken Lake, which is not less on the west side than seventy-five feet deep. The rock con tinues under the lake as far as it could be traced. Here is a very singular and extraordinary exceptional dip to the east; but what is still more singular, is, that the limestones are not cracked or broken, but lie over the precipice made by the fault ed underlying rock, as though it had flowed over them in a soft state, and hardened on its passage, leaving a hollow space between them and the margin of the rock, forming a channel of a subterranean river. The strike of these rocks was traced TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. 45 only about forty rods, bending to the east on the bottom sides of the lake, and forming the west half of Sunken Lake. Be tween this downthrow and the more northern limestone is a valley filled with drift, composed of very coarse gravel, sand, clay, etc., with a few large boulders. The North Branch of Thunder Bay river, which is thirty feet wide near Sunken Lake, and capable of floating saw-logs for twenty or more miles above the lake, in making its channel to Thunder Bay river, passes over a portion of this drift bed; and that portion of the drift between the channel of the river and the drift flanking the west side of the lake, being very porous, filled with water from the river, and was pressed with great force through the small cracks and seams in the limestones. In time these holes through the rocks were made large enough to pass sand and small gravel, and then commenced the hollowing out of the lake. The limestones becoming denuded, were split and crum bled by the frosts of winter, presented additional mouths to in vite water from the river, until it quit its old bed, turned at right angles with its old channel, cut a new one for half a mile to the lake, and after making a few gyrations, sank beneath the rocks, to pass in subterranean darkness to the waters of Little Thunder Bay, where it is indefinitely ascertained that it emerges. The apertures in the rocks are not yet large enough to admit the whole river in time of a freshet, and the surplus water re- turns to its old channel, affording ^he lumbermen a small chance to run their logs past this difficult place. This subter ranean stream, in all probability, follows the strike of the faulted sandstone, which we think bears about east-southeast from the lake. At the same time the writer examined Sunken Lake, he discovered a very interesting sink-hole, or basin, somewhere about southeast from the lake, and thinks it was between sections 15 and 16, in town 31 north, of range 6 east. It was situated in the midst of a heavy growth of sugar, beech and hemlock timber. The hole was nearly round, and about 46 TOPOGBAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL. two hundred feet in diameter. The alluvium and drift was about fifty feet deep, and the cavern below was spacious enough to take this immense mass of matter and the large forest trees, and hide them in the chambers below; it had fallen entirely out of sight. In sinking the first well in Alpena, the litholog ical structure was noted for 64^ feet, and it is remarkable that after passing through the alluvium and drift for 80 feet, and through only two feet of limestone, a quartz rock was reached, 18 feet thick, carrying copper, and perhaps gold. If the rec ords be true, the chances for gold would be better than for salt from the Saginaw basin. Taking all these facts into consider ation, we are drawn to the inevitable conclusion that the Sag inaw salt group and the carboniferous limestones found in the lower basin, compose the nine hundred feet of rock piled up above the sandstones seen at Sunken Lake. That the Saginaw salt lies in a valley between the two basins, and extending from Saginaw Bay to Muskegon. That Alpena city and its imme diate vicinity is on the outcropping edge of the northern geo logical basin, and below the Saginaw salt group; and that if salt is ever found here, it will be taken from the Onondaga salt group of rocks. And now that roads have been made into the interior of the county, affording good facilities for reaching every part of it, that a few hundred dollars would be well ex pended by the county, in employing a competent geologist to make a proper survey of this most interesting portion of the Southern Peninsula. CHAPTEE III. OEGANIZATION. At the time the public surveys were made in Alpena, Presque Isle and Cheboygan counties, all that part of the peninsula was known as the Thunder Bay region, and was attached to Mack inac county, for judicial purposes. In 1854 or '55, the land district was divided, and a Land Office was established at the village of Duncan City, in Cheboygan county. Subsequently these land districts were sub-dividecj, with offices at Traverse City, East Saginaw, Ionia, and Detroit, Alpena county being in the Detroit district. In 1840, boundaries were made, and names given to twenty-nine northern counties. One of these counties was named after an ancient chief of the Thunder Bay band of Indians — "An-a-ma-kee," or Thunder. The name was changed to Alpena, in 1843, but for what reason, is not known to the writer, but he thinks the name a phonetic rendering of the word "Aw-pe-na," which means Partridge, in the Indian language. The point of land between Squaw Bay and Alpena is known by the Indians as "Aw-pe-na-sing," or Partridge Point, and the name of Alpena was probably taken from the name of this point, through the influence of the Hon. Henry Ashman, who was well acquainted with the Thunder Bay coast, spoke the Indian language, and was subsequently a member of the State Legislature, from Midland county. In seems to be a word of recent coinage, as the writer can find no place on the globe of the same name. The word should be spelled "Awpena," to mean Partridge, and if rendered into English, as it is now spelled, would be, "not quite a Partridge." In speaking of Squaw Bay, reminds the writer of the origin of the name. Places sometimes receive their names from tri fling circumstances. The writer named the bay "Squaw Bay," 48 OEGANIZATION. from the following incident: In the winter of 1850 or '51, Eob- ert McMullen was traveling across the bay, and when about the middle of it, he discovered some one fishing through a hole in the ice; and on approaching near, he found it to be Na-o-tay- ke-zhick-co-quay, the daughter of the old Chief Mich-e-ke-wis, who was then camped on Partridge Point. The Indian maiden was fishing, with her head covered with a blanket, and when she heard approaching footsteps, she bounded to her feet, with a frightened look, and without waiting for any apology from Mc, she started for the point, with the fleetness of the antelope; When McMullen told the writer of his adventure, he said to him: ""We will call thatJbay 'Squaw Bay,' and since that time it has been known by that name. In 1853, Cheboygan county was organized, and Montmoren cy, Presque Isle, Alpena, Oscoda and Alcona counties were at tached to Cheboygan county, for judicial and municipal pur poses. In the spring of 1855, the first assessment of taxes was made in Alpena county. The assessor from Cheboygan came as far as Presque Isle, and returned, having assessed the whole territory, without seeing any of it, as many assessors have done since, and are now doing in most of the northern counties. No tax was collected in Alpena county for this year. In 1856, the second assessment, and the first collection of taxes, was made by Cheboygan county, and which tax so collected, amount ed to a little over five hundred dollars. After making the Bailey purchase, the proprietors deemed it advisable to have a county organization for the success and convenience of their enterprise; but it required considerable "cheek" to ask the State Legislature to organize a county where it was a dense wilderness, and where men had to be im migrated to hold the offices for conducting the first election, and where there was only one resident freeholder in the district sought to be organized. It also required not a little courage, end liberality, to incur at such a time, the expense of organiz- OEGANIZATION. 49 ing and running a new county, where their property would eventually have to pay a large proportion of the expense. In order to make a fair showing before the State Legislature, the proprietors, in 1856, came to Thunder Bay river, bringing with them E. A. Breakenridge, a surveyor, to make a temporary survey of a village, to give it a name, and ascertain where the two squares were that they intended to offer to donate to the county, as a site for the county buildings, in the event of, and as an inducement for establishing the county seat at this place, This was in the year of the Fremont campaign, and Messrs. Fletcher, Lockwood and Breakenridge, being "Fremont men," and the Canada parties, Messrs. Oldfield and Minor, having no prejudices, they had resolved to call the prospective village "Feemont." They had brought with them a Fremont flag, which they raised on a pole when naming the town. Daniel Carter was one of the party, but being opposed to Fremont, he refused to help raise the pole, declaring that he "would not help raise a flag that he would not support." He moved his family to Thunder Bay river in November, 1856, and the same fall obtained signers to a petition for the organization of the county of Alpena. In regard to this petition, Mr. Carter says, in a letter to G. N. Fletcher, under date of February 14th, 1857 : "I got the petition, and went up and down the shore, and the folks were all glad to see it. I got fifty-one names. Mr. Har rison, owner of the mill at the Highlands, would not sign it. He wants the county seat at his place, or be set in Saginaw district." In February, 1857, through the energy of the proprietors and the personal efforts of Hon. J. K. Lockwood, the Legisla ture passed the following act, organizing the county of Alpena: An Act to Organize the County of Alpena, and to locate the County Seat thereof. Sec. 1. The People of the Slate of Michigan enact. That the county of Alpena shall be organized and the inhabitants there- 50 OEGANIZATION. of entitled to all the rights and privileges to which, by law, the inhabitants of other organized counties of this State are entitled. Sec. 2. The county seat of said county is hereby establish ed at the village of Fremont, at the mouth of Thunder Bay river, in said county: Provided, That the proprietors of lands therein shall convey to said county, for the exclusive use there of, for county buildings and county purposes, free of all charge, the following described lots, to wit: Two entire blocks, each twenty- four rods square, lying between Eighth and Ninth streets, and Eiver and Lockwood streets, in the village of Fre mont, as surveyed by E. A. Breakenridge, Esq., in the year (1856) eighteen hundred and fifty-six, on section twenty -two (22), in town thirty-one (81) north, of range eight (8) east, in said county. Sec. 8. There shall be elected in said county of Alpena, on the first Tuesday of November, eighteen hundred and fifty- seven (1857), all the several county officers to which, by law, the said county is entitled; and said election shall, in all re spects, be conducted and held in the manner prescribed by law, for holding elections for county and State officers: Provided^ That the county officers so to be elected, shall be qualified, and enter upon the duties of their respective offices, on the first (1) Monday of January, eighteen hundred and fifty-eight (1858), and whose term of office will expire at the time prescribed by the general law. Sec. 4. The board of canvassers of said county, under this act, shall consist of the presiding inspectors of election from each township therein ; and said inspectors shall meet at said village of Fremont, on the first Tuesday after the election, and organize, by appointing one of their number chairman, and an other secretary of said board, and shall thereupon proceed to discharge all the duties of a board of county canvassers, as in other cases of election for county and State officers. Sec. 5. The Sheriff and County Clerk, elected by the pro visions of this act, shall designate a place in the village of Fre mont for holding the Circuit Court in said county, and also suit- OEGANIZATION. 51 able places for the several county offices, as near as practicable to the place designated for holding the Circuit Court; and they shall make and subscribe a certificate, in writing, describing the several places designated, which certificate shall be filed and preserved by the County Clerk ; and thereafter the places thus designated shall be the places of holding the Circuit Court and the county offices, until the Board of Supervisors provide suitable accommodations for said court and county offices. Sec. 6. The counties of Alcona, Oscoda, Montmorency, and that portion of the county of Presque Isle lying east of range 4 east, be and the same are attached to the county of Alpena, for judicial and municipal purposes. Sec. 7. All acts, and parts of acts, contravening the provi sions of this act, the same are hereby repealed. Approved Feb. 7th, 1857. Mr. Lockwood, finding that "the presiding inspectors of elec tions from each township therein," referred to in the fourth section of the above act, had declared "non est inventus," pro cured, ten day later in the session, the passage of an act, as an amendment to the fourth section of the first act, which is as follows: Sec. 1. The People of the State of Michigan enact, That this act shall stand in lieu of section four (4) of said act, and that Daniel Carter, Harvey Harwood and D. D. Oliver are hereby made and constituted a board of county canvassers, who shall act as inspectors of election; and said inspectors shall meet at the said village of Fremont, on the first Tuesday after the election, and appoint one of their number chairman, and another secretary of said board, and shall thereupon proceed to discharge all the duties of a board of county canvassers, as in other cases of election of county and State officers, and shall have the power to act as a Board of Supervisors in and for said county, for the organization of townships therein, and for other purposes, and to hold their office until there be three organized townships in said county, and until other supervisors are elect ed and qualified: And provided. That from any cause a va- 52 OEGANIZATION. cancy occurs in said board, before any township is organized, the two remaining members of the board shall appoint; but if there be one or more townships organized and supervisors elect ed, the vacancy shall be filled by said supervisor or supervisors; The compensation of said board shall be the same as that re ceived by supervisors elected according to law. -411 acts and parts of acts contravening the provisions of this act, be and the same are hereby repealed. This act is ordered to take imme diate effect. Approved February 14th, 1857. It will be seen, by reference to the above amended act of the Legislature, that the first Board of Supervisors of Alpena coun ty was made by sjiecial act, the members being Daniel Carter, of Fremont, Harvey Harwood, of Thunder Bay Island, and D. D. Oliver, of Devil river. They were authorized to act as a board of county canvassers, as well as a Board of Supervisors, and were to hold their offices until three towns were organized in the county, and to fill any vacancy in the board, if one should occur. After being duly notified of their appointment, and about the first of June, 1857, the members of the new Board of Super visors for the county of Alpena, met for business, and organ ized by making Daniel Carter chairman, and, having no County Clerk, D. D. Oliver was made secretary. Mr. Harwood soon moved out of the county, and left the chairman and secretary to have it their own way. They were both inexperienced in county business, and were at least one hundred miles from a precedent; without books, or anything to guide them in their new position; and not a man in the county that could legally administer an oath, and but one in the county who knew any thing about township business, and his knowledge done them no good as a Board of Supervisors, and they had no townships organized; but something must be done by the Board of Su pervisors, and they did it as well as they could. OEGANIZATION. 53 The first and most important business before the board, was to settle with the neighboring Board of Supervisors of Cheboy gan county, and get back a part, if they could, of the $500 tax which the county of Cheboygan had collected of Alpena county and its territory the preceding winter. Carter and Oliver made two trips to Cheboygan, in a sail boat, at a large expense, to meet the supervisors there, who avoided them, and they failed to make a settlement. Oliver then went to Lansing, and had a talk with the Auditor General, in regard to the matter, who told him if he would forward certain papers from Cheboygan, before the fourth day of July, 1857, he would charge back the tax to Cheboygan county, and credit Alpena county with the same. Oliver then made another expensive trip to Cheboygan, procured the necessary papers, and sent them to Lansing; but heard nothing from the Auditor General, until he was threat ened with publication, and then he received the following letter: Auditor General's Office, Lansing, Nov. 13th, 1857. D. D. Olivee, Esq. Deab Sib: — I have just received your letter of the 11th inst. I am not conscious of any neglect in answering your letters. I received your letter of July 10th, with statement of the Board of Supervisors of Alpena county, and certain transcripts from the records of Cheboygan county. I answered you > at once, stating that I had not the power to help your county, referring you to Sec. 99 of the Tax Laws of 1848, as giving the Auditor such, and all the power he has to concel the sale of lands. You wrote me again on the 21st August, which was attended to by repeating the answer made to yours of July 10th. I under stand a letter was received, in my absence, a few days since, and which has been mislaid, but from what I learn of its con tents, I could have answered only as heretofore, that I have not the power to do what you wanted me to do. I am, very respectfully, &c.. Signed, WHITNEY JONES, Aud. Gen'l. 54 OEGANIZATION. This letter from the Auditor General explains the inward ness of the whole matter, and closed up the tax business be tween Cheboygan and Alpena counties. The next business be fore the Board of Supervisors, was the organization of the town of Fremont, but the board could not act without a petition, and as there was not freeholders enough to sign the petition, the organization of the township was tabled, to wait for the further growth of the place. The next care of the board, was to pro vide suitable books for the county records, and to obtain the statutes from the Secretary of State, and other matters, as the following letter from the writer to G. N. Fletcher, Esq., will show: Detroit, Nov. 18th, 1857. G. N. Fletchee. Deab Sib: — A small craft, chartered by Craig & Bro., left for Sugar Island, the night I arrived down. I told them you wished to send something up, but could not tell how much, or what it was. I shall leave for the upper country in a few days, and would like to meet you before I go. I learn by some per sons from the shore, that the vessel arrived there safely, and that it brought but little, and took most of the folks away with her. I have written to the Governor, to appoint a Notary Pub lic, and also written to the Secretary of State, for some books. I hope to get returns in two or three days. What is to be done about the county books? If they go up this fall, they must go up soon. I think you had better come down and see what can be done, for I cannot get them. I am using my time and money in doing the county business, and that is all I feel able to do. Yours respectfully, Signed, D. D. OLIVEE. To be a supervisor then, was to work without pay and pay your own expenses; and it wore the seat from many a pair of supervisor's pants before the board became smooth enough to OEGANIZATION. 55 afford four dollars for six hours' work, and step over to a full treasury and get your money. In August of 1857, the schooner John Minor came into Thunder Bay river, bringing Mr. Addison F. Fletcher, who came in the interest of G. N. Fletcher, Esq., and who superin tended the structure of a rough board store, which was located on Water street, at or near its junction with Second street, the schooner having brought the lumber for that purpose. He — A. F. F. — took an active part in the early affairs of the town and county, being the first clerk of both. He assisted the writer in designing the seal of the Circuit Court, and suggest ed that, "If we have the river, we should have the pine trees.'' He, at one time, owned the best property and residence in the village of Alpena; but he never had much faith in the large growth of the place, and has, up to 1876, persisted in remain ing a noun in the singular number. In September, 1857, Mr. Joseph K. Miller came to Fremont, and with him came a number of settlers. He was a man be yond the middle age ; was well educated, and experienced in business. He was a theologian of the severe school, and an in veterate hater of tobacco and whiskey. He was from Boston, "The Hub of the World," and having some fanciful notions of himself and the place he came from, he placed but little value in the people among whom he came to live. He was very scrupulous in doing what he supposed to be right; but he dif fered with many of his neighbors in what was right. It is evi dent that man has no standard of right and wrong, for what is right in one part of the world, is wrong in another part. What is right in one nation, is wrong in another; what is right among one class of people, is wrong among another class; what is right in the manifestations of religion of one people, would be wrong in the manifestations of religion of another, and what would be right with one person, would be wrong with another. Eight and wrong seem to be fictions, invented by parents, so- 56 OEGANIZATION. cieties and nations, for their guide and government, and a per son is said to be doing right when obeying those rules or laws, and doing wrong when violating them. Eight and wrong with the individual depends upon his phrenological make-up — his education and growth, and his surrounding' influences. These form the conscience which the individual is bound to and will obey. In proof of the above remarks, the writer refers to the fifth chapter of Matthew, and the history of the political strug gle between the northern and southern States, from 1860 to 1865. Soon after Mr. Miller arrived in Fremont, he was appointed to fill the vacancy in the Board of Supervisors, made by the moving away of Harvey Harwood, Esq. ; and now, the board, being full, was prepared to obey the organic law. Without observing technicalities, the board proceeded to organize the township of Fremont. This township was made to comprise the whole of Alpena county proper, and all the territory attach ed to it, for judicial and municipal purposes. Mr. Miller, in a letter to George N. Fletcher, Esq., and dated at Fremont, Oct. 23d, 1857, says, in regard to the petition necessary to be pre sented to the Board of Supervisors: "On examination of the statutes more minutely, I find it requires twelve freeholders to organize a township, as that number must petition the super visors for organization. We had our petition signed by sixteen electors, but there are only two freeholders among them all — Mr. Oliver and myself — so we must make ten of the others freeholders before the day of election, the first day of Novem ber." On the 4th day of November, 1857, as provided by the organic law, the first election took place in Alpena county, and the township officers entered upon the duties of their several offices as soon as they could be qualified, there being no per son in the county who could legally administer the oath of of fice. Mr. Miller says, in a letter to Mr. Fletcher, dated Nov. 4th, 1857: "We had our county election to-day, aud all passed OEGANIZATION. 57 DANIEL CARTER, FIRST TREASURER OF ALPENA TOWNSHIP, ANO FIRST POSTMASTER OF FREMONT. off pleasantly and satisfactorily. Addison, County Clerk; my self County Treasurer and Register of Deeds, i'as eutirely finished. Daniel Carter lived on Water street un til 1859 or 1860, when he erected a large dwelling on Chisholm street, and moved into it, from Water street, the same year. At his house on Water street, was held the first election, 92 IMPEOVEMENTS. the first session of the Board of Supervisors, the first session of a court. It was made the first postoffice, the first boarding house, and for a long time the hospital, where all the sick and wounded, who had no home in the village, were taken and cared for by Mrs. Carter, who was the only physician in the coun ty, and she did good service, as many have good reason to re member. In 1862, Lockwood & Minor commenced to build another steam sawmill, on the east side of Eiver street, between Sixth and Seventh streets. They had got the frame up, when the fire from the woods, which was near, spread into and through where the town now is, — 1876. — by a strong wind, burning the mill frame, together with a number of dwellings, and destroy ing a large quantity of rubbish. This so happened on the fourth day of July, and admonished the people, more than an oration, to clear away the timber around their dwellings. The mill frame was soon replaced, and in October the mill was com pleted, running one six-feet circular and a siding mill. This was known as the "Home Mill." In 1861, Samuel E. Hitchcock, familiarly known among his friends as "The Deacon," came with his family to reside in Fre mont; and in 1862, erected a fine dwelling on Chisholm street, near the bay. He had his lands surveyed, and made them an addition to the village of Fremont. In pursuance of an agree ment with the Board of Supervisors, '-The Deacon," in 1863, erected a large and commodious building, on the corner of Wash ington avenue and Chisholm street, and finished it, for county offices, and a room for holding the courts ; and also for holding church and Sabbath school. It was known as "The Deacon's Court House." As soon as it was finished, and accepted by the Board of Supervisors, a lease was made for five years, and longer if the county of Alpena desired, with a provision that the court room might be used on the Sabbath, for the purpose of holding church and Sabbath school. IMPEOVEMENTS. 93 The year 1868 was not remarkable for the number of now buildings erected, but much improvements were made in finish ing and enlarging those already erected, in clearing grounds, making fences, and improving the streets with ditches, sawdust and sidewalks; so that, in 1864, the little village began to as sume the appearance of civilization. The year 1864 is remarkable in the history of Alpena coun ty, as the