3 9002 05350 591' "y jf\ JF*jt'$p*!W'^ f $ "HE WM Y OF FOR T SCO! 1 MARY U BARLOW YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY r943 u //// eu*~ ** key ?£#*£, dh. r?^ff*fiy tezt**^ THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT (S'SaraTpfia©®! Say WLmy 'iLa Bartow This book Is dedicated to Mrs. Elizabeth Wilson Goodlander One of the few noiv lining, who were born on the historic Plaza. 1921 SOCIETY NEWS MRS. ALICE G. McDERMOTT PHONE 148 •^fived on Plaza. mVs Mary Barlow has come in touim with many former residents, TSipo write her alter reacting her Mcent book "The Why ol Fort Scott' One of them was irom Mrs. Perry D. Cover (Julia E. Fowler) who once lived on the Plaza, whose home is now 1111 KUlon Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., a lew extracts will be of interest. - "Mr. Cover and I' did enjoy, your little history of the early days "of Fort Scott so much, we only wish ed that the book was larger. I re member well the school teachers you speak of Miss Royce was my first teacher in 1868 in the old Plaza building. I remember Mr. Craven, Miss Birsal and Mrs. Hav ens also and that Miss Royce and Birsal boarded at Mr. Margraves. I was well acquainted with Jennie and "Puss" Margrave and have sat on that haircloth sola and probably all the chairs that went with the set, after it was in the Margrave home. I went through all the four rooms ln the Plaza school ahd most in the Central building and attended one winter on the east side Mr. Carter being my teacher. Maiy Smith, Lucy Anthony, Minnie Henderson, George Ware, Charlie Tallman and others being my schoolmates. I also remember Miss Scholfield and Miss Detweiler, being teachers of the little stone school house be fore the brick building was put up. On one of the pages you speak ol a Dr. A. N. Bucking as being one of (he soldiers. His widow is now Mrs. Blee, who lives near us and we often see her. She did not live very long in Fort Scott as did her husband, who was a very line man. 1 I would not take anything a without your, little book, we' wish more of (he early names could have been biographed, like the Stewart, Graff, Lyrm and other fam ilies. I know old Mrs. Arnett we'll, who must have been the widow of Thomas Arnett, who kept the old "State Hotel," that being before my day. Mrs. Arnett used often to to tell me incidents of the early days. My father bought the old govern- . d ment stables at (he eas( end of ' Blair avenue over looking Buck , Run and out of the lumber in them !. built the cottage now there. I would like a set of the photographs cop ied and as you suggest any others not in the book. I am glad to have the name of the Methodist pastor and shall write him. My mother's name was Julia Ann !{[ Fowler. She died August 4, 1873. 'I Her physican was a Dr. Hays, and ' I think '3am Goodlander wa-s the 1 undertaker. Mr. Watters was thei] pastor who officiated, but he and,' his family have all passed away. ' My first Sunday school was in the!' stone building, the Court House, ' corner ol Second and Jones street'' (now National) and it was held up < stairs. i < I do not believe that you spoke of I our McDonald Hall that was our]i opera house. I have never enjoyed ' < any enlertainmeuts as I did those |i held there. j I suppose tho Fort Scott picnic i ' , will be held as usual here on (he T fourth of July. i_ '* * * .0 OFFICERS QUARTERS 1843 A FOREWORD. This little compilation has been made, that the people of Fort Scott may have a succinct and con nected account of the town, from its earliest times to the close of the Civil War, and also that they may have a ready reference of the happenings during that time. There is a vast amount of information to be ob tained, but it is so deeply buried in extraneous mat ter that it is hard to sift out the material needed, and the compiler has spent much time during three years, in gathering all this buried material, and putting it in form available for use by the general public. Every book that might contain any material pertaining to Fort Scott, has been searched, and everybody who might have scraps of information in their possession, has been asked to search their memory for any little incidents that might help to interpret the atmosphere of the old fort to the younger generation. Those young men and those young wives with their babies and httle children, who "crossed the plains" to build that we might Uve in comfort, might well have borrowed the State motto, "Ad astra per aspera," for their own. Most of them were young people from comfortable homes, homes of refinement and homes of plenty, and they were determined to put Fort Scott "on the map," and they did, through their hard work, backed with plenty of energy, foresight, and all the qualities that go to make the pioneer. We all take off our hats to them. Not only that, but like Cyrano, we sweep the ground with them . The compiler is under many obligations to Mrs. C. W. Goodlander, and Mr. T. F. Robley, both of whom gave her carte blanche to use Mr. C. W. Goodlander's "Early Days of Fort Scott," and T. F. Robley's "History of Bourbon County." Much con tained in this little book is quoted, almost verbatim, from these two books. Mrs. Goodlander, Mrs. A. Campbell and others have helped to make it more readable by giving many illuminating anecdotes and incidents connected with the early times on the Plaza. After much searching, correspondence with the War Department at Washington, and help from Judge J. C. Cannon, Wm. Osbun, T. A. Caldwell and D. J. Field (of Richards) the compiler feels that she has made a fairly accurate routing of the Military Road. The Plat of the Plaza was submitted to Wm. Beth, who came here in 1842, a baby in arms, and remem bers it as it was in the old fort days. As he passed favorably upon it the compiler ventures to incorpo rate it in this work. To Henry Baseman she is indebted for the loca tion of the different companies of troops stationed here during the War Days. M. L. Barlow Fort Scott Kansas 1921. QUIVERA 1 KANSAS' NAME 3 KANSAS COUNTRY 4 KANSAS SEAL '6 MILITARY ROAD 8 PLAZA 13 HOTELS 19 MODES OF TRAVEL 22 SLAVERY 25 SCHOOLS 26 BURIAL GROUNDS 30 BOURBON COUNTY 31 POST OFFICE 32 BORDER TROUBLES 35 NEWSPAPERS 46 BUSINESS 1858-59 48 BUILDING OUTSIDE OF PLAZA 50 CHURCHES 53 TOWN COMPANY 56 BLOCK HOUSES 59 FIRST CITY ELECTION 61 WAR HAPPENS 62 PRICE'S RAID 70 SUMMARY 72 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES 82 THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT QUIVERA Coronada, Spanish explorer and governor of one of the provinces of New Spain, Mexico, was given command of an expedition to be sent out to search for the far-famed "Seven Cities of Cibola," and in cidentally, for all the treasures supposed to be found in this region. A friar claimed to have found these seven cities, which are now thought to have been some of the extensive stone pueblos of the Zuni Indians. The expedition of horsemen and infantry were well supplied with arms, artillery, munitions and food. Coronado went as far west as the Grand Canon, then returned to near what is now Bernatello New Mexico, and camped for the winter. While there, he heard glowing accounts of the land further north, which was rich in gold, silver and other met als. Taking three hundred of his best men, and guided by a plains Indian, (whom they named "the Turk") Coronado started in the spring of 1540 to locate this wonderful country, Quivera. They travelled through what is now Kansas in a north-easterly direction, nearly to the Nebraska line. Finding no treasure, they killed the "Turk," blaming him for their lack of success, THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT and started their homeward march. In his report to the King of Spain of his expedition to Quivera, he speaks of the inhabitants as "hving in round huts covered with straw." As the Wichita Indians were the only Indians whose houses, or tepees, were cov ered with straw, the conclusion reached by numer ous students of the subject "Quivera" is, that the famed Quivera was in the region about Great Bend and Newton, Kansas, the then hunting-ground of the Wichita Indians. In his report, too, he speaks of the "fat, black, well-watered land, abounding in prune trees (wild plums) and sweet grapes." Also, in this report, we get the first mention of the buffalo and the vast grassy prairies. If Coronado had but turned his swords into pruning hooks, and applied a little elbow grease, he might have found his much-sought treasure in the shape of golden grain and other products of the "fat, black" soil, and thus have realized his "Qui vera." "In that half-forgotten era, With the avarice of old, Seeking cities he was told Had been paved with yellow gold, In the kingdom of Quivera. Came the restless Coronado To the open Kansas plain, With his knights from Sunny Spain, In an effort that, though vain Thrilled with boldness and bravado." "Ironquill." (E. F. Ware.) THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT KANSAS' NAME There has been much controversy over the origin of the name, Kansas. Prof. John B. Dunbar, a stu dent of the Indian languages, says the word is de rived from the Indian word "Kanza," meaning "swift." In an article in vol. 10, p. 531, of the State Historical Collection the statement is made that, on a map of what is now eastern Kansas appears the name, "Pays des Cansas," (Land of the Canses.) Very likely, that is the map-maker's spelhng of "Kanza." On some of the old maps, the Kansas or Kaw River was spelled, "Riviere des Cans, des Kances, des Quans, and Kanza." To quote again, "The first mention of the Kansas Indian was about the beginning of the 17th Cent., when a Spaniard, Juan de Onate, a member of one of the Spanish expeditions, gave the name "Escan- saques," to the tribes of Indians in this region, the word meaning to trouble, or, to molest." Thus in our search for the origin of the name Kan sas, we are led inevitably back to the name given by the Spaniards to the Indians in this region. No matter whether spelled Kanza, Cans, Canses, Quans or Escansaques. THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT KANSAS COUNTRY We go back in our pohtical history, to the Louis iana Purchase. They said in New York City, then the capital of the United States, "President Jeffer son is going to buy a tract of land somewhere out west. It is such an extravagant piece of legislation, what do we want of it? We have enough land al ready; it is only good for Indians, anyway." Nev ertheless, Jefferson had foresight enough to go ahead and make the treaty with France, thereby adding 1,000,000 sq. miles to the infant U. S. The treaty was made on April 30th 1803. The Spaniards occupied the land until 1804, when Major Ames Stoddard, acting as agent of France, went to St. Louis, and formally accepted the cession of the province from the Spanish Lieutenant-Governor, Don Carlos Delassus, on March 9th, 1804. The Spanish regiment marched out, and a detachment of the 7th U. S. Artillery marched in and raised the American flag. Thus what is now Kansas became a part of the United States. Kansas (except a small portion in the southwest acquired from Texas, in 1850) was carved out of this "Louisiana Purchase." In 1812, Congress renamed this middle region "The Territory of Missouri," but this part seems to have been generally referred to as the "Country of the Kansas Indians," or "The Kansas Indian Country." In 1825, the Government began its Removal Policy, and eventually corralled seventeen tribes, all the Indians on reservations east of the Mississ ippi River in what is now Kansas. They were to occupy their reservations "as long as the grass grew and water flowed." Fort Scott was built on the New York Indian reservation. The first white people to come to this country were the fur-traders. As early as 1825, Chouteau THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT Bros, secured a license to trade with the Indians west of the Mississippi River, and made their cen tral trading post on the land now occupied by the city of St. Louis, and established branch posts all over the country. There was one on the Military Road near Pleasanton, now known as Trading Post, that is very often mentioned in the early annals of Kansas . This Fur business amounted, in some years, to $300,000.00 and all paid for in whiskey, tobacco and trinkets. Don't mention present-day profiteering ! These fur-traders or voyageurs (rowers because they travelled mostly in canoes,) Were the real pathfinders, tracing the streams to their source, exploring the boundless prairies and thus constituting themselves a general information bureau. The next to come were the missionaries from the different denominations establishing missions over much of the country. The missions were the only stopping places for all the early pioneers, a sort of half-w&y house. A traveler was always assured a bed and something to eat, a much welcome hospi tality when overtaken by night or storms. They were the centers of education for both the Indians and white children. In their time they were both a university and an agricultural college, for they gave courses in academic studies, in farming and the trades. Many men and women of culture and re finement devoted their hves to teaching in these missions. Their's was the same spirit that actuated the apostles to labor among the heathen, and their crowns may shine a little bit brighter than the crowns of we stay-at-homes. Finally an Act was passed in Congress defining what is now Kansas as part of the Indian Territory. The boundaries of this territory were from the western line of Missouri as far west as the "State of Deseret," the name given by the Mormons, 1849, THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT to Utah. The name signifies "Land of the Honey bee." From Minnesota on the north, to Texas on the south. , , In 1854, Kansas emerged, battle-scarred, but daunless to be erected into a territory ready to begin her bloody struggle for entrance into the Union. Her struggle shook the whole country and for awhile all eyes turned to this far western land to know which party would win, the Free State or the Pro-Slavery. She won out as a free state and was admitted into the Union, January 29th, 1861. On February 22nd, the U. S. flag with an added star, was raised over Independence Hall in Philadelphia. Charles Sumner speaks of Kansas as "the middle spot of North America calculated to nurture a pow erful and generous people." Wm. D. Seward said: "Kansas is the Cinderella of the American family." Henry Ward Beecher said: "There is no monument under Heaven on which I would rather have my name inscribed than on this goodly state of Kansas." J. H. Forney said: "If I had been commanded to choose one spot on the globe, upon which to illus trate human development under the influence of ab solute liberty, I could have chosen no part of God's foot-stool as interesting as Kansas, yesterday an infant, today a giant, tomorrow — who can tell?" SEALS TERRITORIAL. This seal was engraved by Robert Lovett, of Philadelphia, after a design submitted by Andrew H. Reeder, first Territorial Governor. It consists of a shield with two supporters, surmounted by a scroll motto; in the lower compartment is the buf falo and the hunter; in the upper, the implements THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT of agriculture. The left-hand supporter is a pioneer with his smock-frock, leggings, rifle and tomahawk. The right-hand supporter is the Goddess, Ceres, with her sheaf., At their feet, lie a fallen tree and an axe. The motto two inches in diameter, is "Populi voce nata," (Born of the popular will.) KANSAS SEAL. March 1861, the Legislature appointed a commit tee of six to present a design for a State Seal. De sign after design was submitted and discussions ga lore were the order of the day, and on May 20th the design of the present seal was adopted. The East was represented by the rising sun; the West by a herd of retreating buffalo, pursued by two mounted Indians; Agriculture by a man plow ing; Government of the country by a settler's cabin, and a train of moving- wagons going west; Com merce, by a river and a steamboat. Over the top is the motto, "Ad astra per aspera," (To the stars through difficulties) ; beneath the motto is a cluster of thiry-four stars, representing the thiry-four states. Around the outside are the words "The Great Seal of the State of Kansas, Jan. 29th, 1861." There has been much controversy as to who sug gested the design. The credit for the selection is given to Josiah Miller, a member of the committee, and is so stated on his monument. It is likely that the final design was a combination of the different designs submitted. It is generally conceded that John J. Ingalls' design Was very little changed but some additions were made, such as the steamboat, the plowing and the buffalo. It is almost certain that the motto "Ad astra per aspera" was on his de sign, for he speaks of "having seen it on an old brass seal in the office of a gentleman, with whom I read law in Haverhill, Mass. in 1857." fvrf lesarenrrerf'/? ;-Ke>ns£i0 City irr/ree Af/ss-zo/f F?rf Jc^/i/ THE MILITARY ROAD 1843 THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT MILITARY ROAD In_ 1825, the Government conceived the plan of moving all the Indians, on reservations east of the Mississippi River, out to Kansas, and turning them loose that they might get back "next to Nature's heart." Forthwith, treaties were made with the dif ferent Indian tribes and they were dumped on their new reservations, with the promise that they should have these particular reservations to have and to hold "as long as the grass grew and water flowed." Fort Scott was built on the New York In dian land. Of course they were no sooner well "next to Nature's heart" than they reverted to type and began harrying and raiding all the white set tlements along the Missouri border. When the Government saw what a mistake had been made by their "Removal Policy," Congress was asked for an appropriation for a military road, linking the western forts. On Dec. 23rd, 1835, this motion was made in the Senate, by Mr. Linn: "Re solved that the committe on military affairs be instructed to inquire into the expediency of making an appropriation for the purpose of constructing a military road from Cantonment Des Moines to Cantonment Leavenworth, thence to Fort Gibson," Cherokee Nation, later Indian Territory. All the reports made on this resolution make the guarding of this border country from the depreda tions of the Indians in this "buffalo country," as one report calls Kansas, the reason for building this road. Leavenworth, (established in 1827,) was then the western terminus of river traffic and the dis tributing point of all military stores. This Military Road was intended to facilitate the transportation of these supplies and troops to these two far forts, THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT and to make a more certain and easier route for the patrolling companies. A commission under Col. S. W. Kearney and Capt. N. Boone, 1st Dragoons U. S. Army were sent out from Washington to locate this road, and the survey was finished in 1842 and a report thereof sent to Washington by Charles Dimmick, Govern ment civil engineer. He had been repeatedly charged to place the road within the Territory but as close to the Missouri line as possible. At all fords the road was graded down to the stream, as can be plainly seen today at our Military Ford, at Marias des Cygnes, and other places. On the completion of the Road, which is the why of Fort Scott, the Government sent out two com missioners, Capt. B. J. Moore and Dr. Jacob R. Mott, to decide on a location for a cantonment about mid-way between Forts Leavenworth and Gibson. They were to take with them the contingent of troops then occupying the Cantonment Fort Wayne, Arkansas, consisting of 120 men and three officers, Capt. B. D. Moore, J. Simpson, assistant surgeon, and Lieut. W. Eustis, and march north along this newly surveyed road and locate a new cantonment as before indicated. They found one location that they thought would be desirable, but the land was held by an Indian, and he, thinking it a chance of getting some of the white chief's money, wanted $4,000.00 for it. As this was $3,000.00 more than the Government had allowed for the purchase of land, they continued their march, reaching, one evening, a farm house just across the Missouri bor der from here, owned by a Col. Geo. Douglas, and camped for the night. Col. Douglas, on learning the object of their search, told them about this location on the Marmaton. Early next morning, the offi cers, guided by Col. Douglas rode over to the future site of Fort Scott. They were so pleased with the THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT location, the extended view of the Military Road from the Plaza bluff, the nearness to a stream of water, and the high and dry elevation on which to place their cantonment, that there was an imme diate and unanimous vote for the location. The contingent broke camp, on the return of the officers to the Douglas farm, and marched over to their future camp and immediately started work on their temporary quarters. Lieut., then Sergeant, Hamilton felled the first tree. Y This was on May "Oth 1842 It was called Camp Scott~after "Gent "WinfieTd Scott, but in 1843, by order from Washing ton, it was changed to Fort Scott. These temporary quarters, of course, were built of logs, the chinks stopped with mud. These log houses stood near where the Plaza School now stands. After the per manent buildings were finished, these houses, with the exception of one, were burned. The remaining one was occupied for a time by the Surgeon of the Post, and, later, by Judge Margrave. In it, Mrs. E. J. Rollings, still of this city, was born. You will find an account of the permanent quarters of the Post, under the heading, "The Plaza." The commissioners returned east, and according to some authorities, Lieut. J. Hamilton was left in charge of the troops and under his supervision the permanent quarters were built. This Military Road continued to be the main route for all military supplies the stages those trav eling on horse-back or in moving-wagons, army supply trains, etc., until the war broke out, as I be fore stated. Looking over the State Historical re ports, one often sees mention of this road. Rev. Cyrus Rice, circuit-rider of this District, tells of an amusing incident that happened on this Road. Coming into Fort Scott from the Chouteau Trad ing Post, he passed a party of young people on horse-back. After he had passed, one of them called 10 THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT back and asked him if he was a preacher. On his replying in the affirmative, they, said they were looking for someone to marry two of them. They all dismounted and lined up on the road and Rev. Rice proceeded with the ceremony. He wrote their marriage certificate on a leaf of his notebook and handed it to them. Thus were united James S. Brown and Martha Hobbs, in holy wedlock, on that lonely road in the wilds of this far western country, on December 13th, 1855. E. A. Smith, in his diary, tells of two Companies passing through Fort Scott on this Military Road. Rev. J. J.Lutz, a missionary, speaks in a report to the State Historical Society, of Bishop Morris, Rev. L. B. Stateler, Rev. T. Hurlburt and Rev. E. S. Perry travelling over this Road on their way to an Indian Mission Conference at Tahlequah, and camping overnight at Fort Scott, October, 1844. _ I have given this long account of this Road, be cause it was the reason for Fort Scott, the "Why" of Fort Scott. The road as surveyed, started from Fort Leaven worth, crossed Five Mile creek south of the Fort, then on south and east to the Kaw, or Kansas River, where it crossed into Johnson County, at what was called Grinter's Ferry, about where Edwardsville now stands. From there it run through Shawnee Mission south to Little Santa Fe, where it crossed the Santa Fe trail, the shipping point for the farther western country in the early forties. From there it run almost due south until it reached a settlement called West Point, on the Kansas and Missouri line. Here the road made a detour around a rise of ground and run for about ten miles through Mis souri, thence turning west into Kansas again, cross ing Sugar creek, still running southwest and cross ing the Marias des Cygne at Trading Post, where can still be seen the grading leading to the ford. From 11 THE WHY OF FORT SCOTT Trading Post, passing about two miles east of Pleas anton, on south around Military Mound, through Po- tosi, a settlement now abandoned, which stood a few miles east of Pleasanton to Barnesville. When it reached the Marmaton River it crossed at what is now known as Military Ford or Bridge, thence due south,passing east of National Cemetery, crossed Moore's Branch near Edwards Junction, Drywood Creek about one half mile east of Garland, thence through Crawford county, still hugging the border into Cherokee county, to Baxter Springs, where it turned southwest and on to Fort Gibson, the most southwestern Government Station. Fort Scott being located by the two Government Commissioners, Capt. B. D. Moore and Dr. J. R. Mott, a httle off the surveyed line, a branch road was surveyed, which run from the crossing at Mil itary Ford, south between the Nogle and Osbun farms, southwest through the Reirson farm, due west between the Horse Market and the condensery, past the Tallman place, under the hill and entered the Fort at First street, then the only approach to Buck Run. From there a little west, then north on Scott Avenue to Marmaton Avenue, where there was a great iron gate, always guarded, giving en trance through the stockade to the Plaza. A little later they used a road running on the north side of the river and crossed to the fort at a ford a httle east of the Marmaton bridge. All who have used this ford tell how steep and muddy were the ap proaches on each side. It was over this route that all the lumber for the Government Buildings was hauled. When going south from the Fort, they went on Market street to Scott Avenue to abdut Third street where they crossed Buck Run and entered the main Road which leads across Drywood Creek and into Crawford County . 12 30&»~DO-i-£ 1 o ¦•c ^J£ LOs o Pi> D Pi XI X X o C) _ I ; s t V * Q I I- I - ,. . ¦ ....>-— g ^J- i - — THE Mc DONALD BROS. STORE AND BANK SOLDIERS' BARRACKS 1843